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@@ -1,37 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, by A. Neely Hall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys - Wooden and Cardboard Toys, Mechanical and Electric Toys - -Author: A. Neely Hall - -Illustrator: Tom P. Hall - -Release Date: December 20, 2012 [EBook #41669] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Matthias Grammel and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41669 *** [Transcriber's Note @@ -359,7 +326,7 @@ CONTENTS FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE 156 The Walls and Ceiling--Hardwood Floors--Carpets--Rugs--Window-shades--Lace - Curtains--Portieres--Pictures--A Cosey-corner--Buying + Curtains--Portières--Pictures--A Cosey-corner--Buying Furnishings--Making Furniture. CHAPTER XV @@ -3997,15 +3964,15 @@ above the windows or hung upon poles made out of No. 12 wire, cut in lengths to fit the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to hang upon. -=Handsome Portieres= for the doorways can be made with beads and with +=Handsome Portières= for the doorways can be made with beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens. For the -=Bead Portieres=, cut threads as long as the height of the door and +=Bead Portières=, cut threads as long as the height of the door and string the beads upon them, alternating the colors in such a way as to produce patterns. Then tie the strings together to a piece of wire the width of the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening. The -=Straw Portieres= are made similarly. +=Straw Portières= are made similarly. From magazine illustrations you can select @@ -5728,362 +5695,4 @@ INDEX End of Project Gutenberg's Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, by A. Neely Hall -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS *** - -***** This file should be named 41669.txt or 41669.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/6/6/41669/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Matthias Grammel and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys - Wooden and Cardboard Toys, Mechanical and Electric Toys - -Author: A. Neely Hall - -Illustrator: Tom P. Hall - -Release Date: December 20, 2012 [EBook #41669] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Matthias Grammel and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - -[Transcriber's Note - -The "LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS" was added. - -Many of the figures were NOT in sequential order within the original -publication and are transcribed as printed. - -Emphasis notation for italic is _Text_ and bold is =Text=. - -Whole and fractional parts of numbers is displayed as 2-1/4.] - - - - - HOME-MADE TOYS - FOR - GIRLS AND BOYS - - - - - BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL - - - _8vo. Cloth. Illustrated with hundreds of full-page - and working drawings by the author - and Norman P. Hall_ - - - =THE BOY CRAFTSMAN= { Price _net_ $ 1.60 - { Postpaid 1.82 - - =HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS= { Price _net_ $ 2.00 - { Postpaid 2.25 - - =THE HANDY BOY= { Price _net_ $ 1.60 - { Postpaid 1.82 - - - LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON - - - -[Illustration: FIGS. 287 AND 288. AN AUTO DELIVERY-WAGON BUILT OF -CIGAR-BOXES. (See page 192.)] - - - - - HOME-MADE TOYS - FOR - GIRLS AND BOYS - - Wooden and Cardboard Toys, - Mechanical and Electrical Toys - - _By_ A. Neely Hall - - _Author of_ "_The Boy Craftsman_", - "_Handicraft for Handy Boys_", - "_The Handy Boy_" _Etc._ - - With over three hundred illustrations and - working-drawings by the author and Norman - P. Hall - - - BOSTON - - LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO. - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1915, BY - LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD COMPANY - PUBLISHED, AUGUST, 1915 - - - _All rights reserved_ - - HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS - - - - Norwood Press - J. S. Cushing Co.--Berwick & Smith Co. - Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. - - - - - _Constructive ideas expel destructive ideas from the juvenile mind._ - - - - -INTRODUCTORY NOTES - - -Through the author's handicraft volumes, and magazine and newspaper -articles, thousands of boys and girls who never realized they could make -their own toys, have succeeded in constructing models which would do -credit to Santa Claus' master toy-makers. - -The success of this new home industry has suggested the need of a volume -devoted entirely to toy-making, and in HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS -the author has brought together a large number of the toy ideas from his -former handicraft volumes, and from his articles published in the -_Ladies' Home Journal_, _Woman's Home Companion_, _Good Housekeeping_, -the _Boys' Magazine_, and other publications, and he believes that as -collected and arranged the material will be found a veritable gold-mine -of toy-making information. - -Go to any toy store and price the toys similar to those described within -these covers, then estimate if you can how much the other toys you do -not find would cost if manufactured, and you will discover that one -hundred dollars would not cover their value. One splendid thing about -these home-made toys is that the greater part of them require little -more than the pick-up material found at home. Few boys and girls are -given a one hundred dollar assortment of toys at a time, yet any one can -own a collection of this value who is willing to spend the time -necessary to follow the instructions given in this book. Probably, -though, some of the toys will be wanted now, and the others one, two or -three seasons hence, because, you see, the book is an all-the-year-round -handy book with suggestions for every season. Some of the toys will be -of especial interest to boys, yet girls who like what boys like will -enjoy making them also. - -Home-made toys are generally longer lived than store toys because the -boy or girl who expends a certain amount of effort producing gives them -better care. Home-made toys have a greater value than boughten ones -because there is as much fun making them as playing with them. Doing -something interesting, getting satisfying results out of the work, -putting an idea into tangible form, and having a toy to show of which it -can be said, "I made this all myself,"--these are the factors in -toy-making so fascinating to boys and girls. - -It is no less a child's nature to want to do that which is most pleasing -to him, than an adult's, so why not encourage this wholesome activity of -toy-making to which the child takes as readily as a duck takes to water? -It trains the mind to think clearly, the hands to work cleverly, -replaces destructive thoughts with constructive ideas, and, in making -the boy or girl dependent upon himself or herself for toys, is -invaluable in developing resourcefulness. - -Recognizing how easily the child's interest is attracted and held by -anything of a building nature, toy manufacturers have placed scores of -so-called "construction sets" upon the market, but, though excellent as -these outfits are, the toys they form are merely assembled, not really -made by the boy or girl, and much of the value of making is lost. Exactly -as good models as those assembled with "construction sets" can be made of -pick-up materials, as chapters in this book show. In fact, some of the -models in the manufacturers' instruction pamphlets--merry-go-rounds, -Ferris wheels and swings--are almost identical with home-made models -devised long ago by the author for his readers. Furthermore, there are -many, very many toys in HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS which are -beyond the limited possibilities of "construction sets." - - A. N. H. - - OAK PARK, ILLINOIS, - May 31, 1915. - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER I - PAGE - - HOME-MADE WINDMILLS 1 - The Paper Pinwheel--The Pinion-wheel Windmill--To mount - the Pinion-wheel--The Four-blade Windmill--To mount the - Windmill--The Eight-blade Windmill--The Hub--The Eight - Blades--The Shaft--The Tail--To pivot the Windmill--To - operate a Toy Jumping-jack. - - CHAPTER II - - HOME-MADE KITES 9 - How to make a Malay--The Sticks--Framing the - Sticks--Covering the Framework--Attaching the - Bridle--Flying-line--The Box-kite--The Kite - Sticks--The Side Frames--Covering for the End - Cells--Assembling the Kite--Attaching the - Bridle--A Good Hand Kite-reel--A Body Kite-reel. - - CHAPTER III - - A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE 21 - Accuracy in Model Construction--The Most Successful Type - of Model--The Fuselage--The Thrust Bearings--The Bow - Hooks--The Main Plane--The Elevator--The Fin--The - Propellers--How to prepare the Propellers--The Propeller - Blank--The Propeller-shafts--The Motors--The Home-made - Motor-winder--How the Egg-beater winds the Motors--Care - in winding the Motors--Position to take for launching a - Model. - - CHAPTER IV - - A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT 33 - How operated--The Hull Bottom--The Sides--The Deck--The - Propeller--The Propeller-shaft--The Bearing Plate--The - Thrust Bearing--The Rubber-band Motor--To wind the - Motor--How to elaborate upon the Design and Construction. - - CHAPTER V - - HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS 38 - A Varnish-can Water-motor--The Case--The Water-motor - Wheel--The Eight Paddles--The Wheel Shaft--An Outlet--A - Pulley-belt--Pulley-wheels--Connecting up the - Water-motor--Another Water-motor--The Water-motor - Wheel--The Wheel Supports--To mount the Wheel--The - Pulley Wheel--The Water-motor Case. - - CHAPTER VI - - A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY 47 - The Trolley-line--Supports for Trolley-line--Power for - Operating--Railway--Tracks--The Cars--A Gondola Car--A - Street Car--Other Cars--Operation of the Railway--A - Station. - - CHAPTER VII - - HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS 59 - A Toy Elevator that appears Magical in its - Operation--Adapting Elevator to Toy Office - Building--Floors--Partitions--The Elevator Car--The - Elevator Guides--The Cables--The Counter-balance--The - Smoke-stack--The Overhead Pulleys--How the Car - operates--Ballast--To make the Car Rise--A Simple - Control--Two Levers--An Outdoor Elevator--The Guide - Supports--The Car--The Guides--The Counter-balance--The - Lifting Cable--The Lowering Cable. - - CHAPTER VIII - - HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS 71 - The Simple Construction of Small Mechanical Toys--A - Buzz-saw Whirligig--Operating the Whirligig--The - Clog-dancer--A Toy Jumping-jack--A Cricket-rattle--The - Turtle Toy--To make the Turtle Crawl. - - CHAPTER IX - - HOME-MADE TOPS 79 - Top Spinning on the South Sea Islands--Clock Wheel - Tops--A Rug-tack Top--A Spool Top--A Spinning Top - Race-track--A Shoe-polish Can Top--A Spiral Top--A - Merry-go-round Top--How the Top Spins--Horses and - Riders--A Flag. X/ /X - - CHAPTER X - - HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS 88 - The Necessary Materials--How to prepare the - Clockwork--The Merry-go-round--The Standard--The - Tent--The Tent-poles--The Horses--The Sleighs--The - Shafts--The Girl Riders--The Boy Riders--The - Platform--How to operate the Merry-go-round--Other - Animals--A Miniature Ferris Wheel--The Standard--The - Clockwork Motor--The Station Platform--The - Wheel--Rims--Hubs--Spokes--Assembling the Wheel--The - Cars--Axles--How to mount the Wheel--The Platform - Steps--The "Flying Airships"--The Standard--The - Mast--The Cars--Increasing the Speed of the - Clockwork--An Electric Motor--An Automobile--The - Frame--The Belt--Testing the Machine--The Cardboard - Sides--The Wheels--The Mud-guards--The Lamps--The - Steering-wheel--The Horn--The Brake--The - Chauffeur--Painting the Machine--An Automobile - Delivery Wagon--The Cardboard Sides--The Wheels--Other - Portions--Painting the Wagon--A Clockwork Railway. - - CHAPTER XI - - HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS 117 - An Electro-magnet Derrick--The Electro-magnet--A - Home-made Switch--The Derrick--The Windlass--The - Hoisting Cables--How the Derrick Works--A Toy Shocking - Machine--The Induction-coil--The Primary-coil--The - Secondary-coil--The Handles--An Interrupter--How the - Interrupter Works--A Toy Electric Motor Truck--The - Wheels--The Upper Shaft--The Belts--The Battery--The - Bi-chromate Battery Fluid--Amalgamating a Zinc - Pencil--The Seat and Canopy-top--The Seat-arms--The - Steering-wheel--The Levers. - - CHAPTER XII - - A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY 140 - The Framework--The Circular Target--The Animal - Targets--The Card-shooting Pistol--How to number the - Targets--How to shoot at the Targets. - - CHAPTER XIII - - A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE 145 - The Building Material--The Floor Plans--The - Partitions--The Elevator-shaft--The Side Walls--The - Rear Wall--The Front Wall--The Windows--The Roof--The - Chimney--An Elevator--The Car--The Guide-wires--The - Pulleys--The Chain Cable--The Counter-balance--The - Gable-ends--Spring-catches--The - Stairway--Stringers--Treads and - Risers--Newel-posts--Hand-rails--Balusters--The Front - Steps--The Window Openings--The Window Glass--The - Front and Rear Doors--The Outside Trimmings--The - Interior Woodwork--Setting the Nail-heads--Painting. - - CHAPTER XIV - - FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE 156 - The Walls and Ceiling--Hardwood - Floors--Carpets--Rugs--Window-shades--Lace - Curtains--Portières--Pictures--A Cosey-corner--Buying - Furnishings--Making Furniture. - - CHAPTER XV - - A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE 160 - Dimensions of Stable--The First Story--The Roof--The - Gable-end--The Stall Partitions--The - Feed-troughs--Windows--Ladder to Hay-loft--Feed-hoist--The - Drop-front--A Stable Door--Painting--If you prefer a - Garage. - - CHAPTER XVI - - A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING 165 - A New Idea in Doll-houses--How the Three Units are - arranged to form a Three-story Building or Six-room - Apartment--Building Material--The Room Dimensions--The - First Story Unit--The Second Story Unit--The Third Story - Unit--The Door and Window Openings--The Bay Windows--The - Joints between the Units--The Roof Construction--The - Chimney--The Windows--The Front Door--The Inside - Doorways--The Interior Trim--A Fireplace--Lighting - Fixtures--Decorating--Painting the Outside Walls. - - CHAPTER XVII - - HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE 174 - Metal Furniture--Miniature Mission - Furniture--Material--Drawing the Patterns and Enlarging - by Squares--The Chairs--The Settee--Tables--A - Dining-room Table--A Side-board--A Mirror--The - Grandfather's Clock--Kitchen Furniture--The Beds--The - Dresser--A Wash-stand--Finishing. - - OTHER CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE 187 - A Folding-bed--A Dresser--A Wardrobe. - - CHAPTER XVIII - - HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS 191 - Material--Cutting--An Express-wagon--A Cart--An Auto - Delivery-wagon--A Jack-in-the-box--A Round-seated - Chair--A Round Center-table--A Dining-table--A - Square-seated Chair--A Doll's Cradle--Finishing the - Cigar-box Wood. - - CHAPTER XIX - - HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS 196 - Material--A Baby Carriage--A Two-wheel Cart--A Toy - Merry-go-round--A Teeter-board--A Doll Swing--A - Sofa--A Chair--A Square Center-table--A Round - Center-table. - - CHAPTER XX - - A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX 205 - Playing Postman--Material for Mail-box--The Sides, - Ends, and Bottom of Box--The Top--The Letter-drop--The - Collection-drop--Reinforcing the Corners--Covering the - Box--A Collection Schedule Card--How to hang up the - Mail-box--A Mail-bag--The Way to play Post-office. - - CHAPTER XXI - - A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE 210 - The Working Principle of the Reflectoscope--Material - for making One--The Lens Opening--Ventilator Holes--The - Interior Arrangement--A Hood for the Ventilators--If - Oil Lamps are Used--If Electric Light is Used--How to - mount the Lens--Puttying Cracks--Painting the Inside - of the Box--The Back Boards--The Picture Holder--How - the Lens reverses Pictures--Adjustments. - - INDEX 215 - - - - -LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS - - (In addition to 346 text illustrations) - - - Figs. 287 and 288. An Auto Delivery-wagon built of - Cigar Boxes (Page 192) _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - Fig. 48. Launching the Toy Motor-boat 34 - - Fig. 108. The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord } - Fig. 109. The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in Himself } 72 - Fig. 110. Pull the String and Jack jumps comically } - - Fig. 114. Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it Chirp } - Fig. 115. The Crawling Turtle's Shell is a Jelly-mould } 76 - - Fig. 135. A Merry-go-round } - Fig. 136. A Clockwork Motor } - Fig. 137. A Ferris Wheel } 90 - Fig. 138. A Flying Airship } - - Fig. 160. The Car Completed } - Fig. 161. The Framework } 104 - - Fig. 220. The Home-made Doll-house } - Fig. 221. Interior View of Doll-house } 146 - - Fig. 243. The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town } - Fig. 244. How the Three Stories are arranged side by } 166 - side to form a Six-room Apartment } - - Fig. 284. An Express-wagon } - Fig. 285. A Cart. } 192 - - Fig. 289. A Jack-in-the-box } - Fig. 290. The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box } - Fig. 291. A Round-seated Chair } - Fig. 292. A Round Center-table } 194-195 - Fig. 293. A Dining-table } - Fig. 294. A Square-seated Chair } - Fig. 295. A Doll's Cradle } - - Fig. 325. The Home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door } - Fig. 326. The Home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair-back } 206 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - PAGE - - FIG. 1. The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to Make. 1 - FIG. 2. Diagram for Paper Pinwheel. 2 - FIG. 3. How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded. 2 - FIG. 4. A Pinion-wheel Windmill. 3 - FIG. 5. Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill. 3 - FIG. 6. A Four-blade Windmill. 4 - FIG. 7. Hub. 4 - FIG. 8. How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail 4 - FIG. 9. An Eight-blade Windmill. 5 - FIG. 10. Spool Hub. 6 - FIG. 11. Blades. 6 - FIG. 12. Shaft. 6 - FIG. 13. Tail. 6 - FIG. 14. How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy - Jumping-jack. 7 - FIG. 15. How the Jumping-jack is Supported. 8 - FIG. 16. Spool Hub. 8 - FIG. 17. A Malay Tailless Kite. 9 - FIG. 18. Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached. 10 - FIG. 19. Framework of Malay Kite. 11 - FIG. 20. Detail of Vertical Stick. 12 - FIG. 21. Detail of Bow-Stick. 12 - FIG. 22. Detail of End of Bow-Stick. 12 - FIG. 23. Raising the Box-Kite. 13 - FIG. 24. The Box-Kite. 14 - FIG. 25. Make Two Side Frames like this. 14 - FIG. 26. Cross-section of the Box-Kite. 15 - FIG. 27. Detail of Diagonal Braces. 16 - FIG. 28. A Good Hand Kite-reel. 17 - FIGS. 29 and 30. Details of Hand Kite-reel. 18 - FIG. 31. A Body Kite-reel. 19 - FIG. 32. Detail of Axle Support. 19 - FIG. 33. Detail of Crank. 19 - FIG. 34. Launching a Model Aeroplane. 22 - FIG. 35. Plan. 23 - FIG. 36. Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor). 23 - FIG. 37. Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells Model. 24 - FIG. 38. Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and - Connections. 24 - FIG. 39. Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is Connected - to it. 24 - FIG. 40. Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model. 26 - FIG. 41. Detail of the Elevator Framework. 26 - FIG. 42. Detail of Fin. 26 - FIG. 43. The Wells Model Propeller. 27 - FIG. 44. How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller. 27 - FIG. 45. A Home-made Motor Winder. 30 - FIG. 46. The Kind of Egg-beater to Use. 30 - FIG. 47. How the Motors are Connected to Winder for Winding. 30 - FIG. 48. LAUNCHING THE TOY MOTOR-BOAT. 34 - FIG. 49. The Completed Motor-boat. 33 - FIG. 50. Stern, with Motor in Place. 33 - FIG. 51. Diagram of Hull. 34 - FIGS. 52 and 53. How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck Pieces are - Assembled 34 - FIG. 54. Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat. 36 - FIGS. 55-59. Details of Propeller. 36 - FIG. 60. Rubber-band Motor 36 - FIG. 61. A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation. 38 - FIG. 62. The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor. 39 - FIGS. 63 and 64. Sections through Water-motor Case. 40 - FIG. 65. The Completed Water-motor Wheel. 41 - FIGS. 66 and 67. Details of Water-motor Wheel. 41 - FIGS. 68-69. How to Make a Water-tight Connection between Faucet - and Water-motor. 42 - FIG. 70. A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a - Wash-basin. 43 - FIG. 71. The Water-motor Wheel. 43 - FIGS. 72 and 73. Details of Water-motor Wheel. 44 - FIG. 74. Support for Water-motor Wheel. 45 - FIG. 75. Upright. 47 - FIG. 76. The Toy Railway in Operation. 48 - FIG. 77. Support for Trolley-line. 48 - FIG. 78. The Tracks. 50 - FIG. 79. A Top View of Car Truck. 50 - FIG. 80. Spool Wheels. 51 - FIG. 81. The Completed Car Truck. 51 - FIG. 82. 51 - FIG. 83. A Gondola Car. 52 - FIG. 84. Side View. 53 - FIG. 85. End View. 53 - FIGS. 86-94. Details of Toy Street Car. 55 - FIG. 95. The Railway Depot. 57 - FIG. 96. A Toy Office Building with Elevator. 60 - FIG. 97. Section through Elevator Shaft. 62 - FIG. 98. Floors. 63 - FIG. 99. Partitions. 63 - FIG. 100. Front View of Elevator Shaft. 64 - FIGS. 101. and 102. Elevator Car Details. 64 - FIG. 103. Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers. 65 - FIG. 104. An Outdoor Elevator. 66 - FIG. 105. Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables. 67 - FIG. 106. Elevator Car. 69 - FIG. 107. Counter-balance. 69 - FIG. 108. The Buzz-saw whizzes when you Twist the Cord. 72 - FIG. 109. The eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in himself. 72 - FIG. 110. Pull the String and Jack jumps comically. 72 - FIG. 111. Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in Fig. 108. 72 - FIG. 112. Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in Fig. 109. 73 - FIG. 113. Details of Body of the Jumping-jack shown in Fig. 110. 74 - FIG. 114. Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it chirp. 76 - FIG. 115. The crawling Turtle's Shell is a Jelly Mould. 76 - FIG. 116. Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown Fig. 114. 76 - FIG. 117. How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a Jelly Mould - to Make the Turtle shown in Fig. 115. 77 - FIG. 118. The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which Propel them. 77 - FIGS. 119 and 120. Clock Wheel Tops. 80 - FIG. 121. Upholstering Tack Top. 80 - FIG. 122. How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning. 80 - FIGS. 123 and 124. Details of Spool Top. 80 - FIG. 125. A Shoe-polish Can Top. 81 - FIGS. 126-128. Details of Shoe-polish Can Top. 82 - FIG. 129. A Spinning Top Race-track. 83 - FIG. 130. A Spiral Top. 84 - FIG. 131. Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top. 84 - FIG. 132. A Merry-go-round Top. 85 - FIG. 133. Detail of Merry-go-round Top. 86 - FIG. 134. How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform. 86 - FIG. 135. A Merry-go-round. 90 - FIG. 136. A CLOCKWORK MOTOR. 90 - FIG. 137. A Ferris Wheel. 90 - FIG. 138. The "Flying Airships." 90 - FIG. 139. How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the Cigar-box - Cover. - (This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for - the Ferris Wheel.) 89 - FIG. 140. Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round. 91 - FIG. 141. Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round. 91 - FIG. 142. The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a Tent-pole. 91 - FIG. 143. Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round. 92 - FIG. 144. Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs. 93 - FIG. 145. A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to Shaft. 94 - FIG. 146. Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders. 95 - FIG. 147. Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders. 95 - FIG. 148. How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached. 95 - FIG. 149. Standard for the Ferris Wheel. 97 - FIG. 150. Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris Wheel - Standard. 98 - FIGS. 151 and 152. How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of the - Support for a Hub. 98 - FIG. 153. How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel. 99 - FIG. 154. The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub. 99 - FIG. 155. The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes. 99 - FIG. 156. A Spool Hub for the Wheel. 99 - FIG. 157. How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened Together. 99 - FIG. 158. Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars. 100 - FIG. 159. A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel. 101 - FIG. 160. The Car completed. 104 - FIG. 161. The Framework. 104 - FIG. 162. Top View of Wooden Frame. 105 - FIGS. 163-170. Patterns for the Automobile Touring-car. 108 - FIG. 171. Chauffeur. 109 - FIG. 172. Cardboard Side of Automobile. 109 - FIG. 173. The Hood. 110 - FIG. 174. The Steering-wheel. 111 - FIG. 175. An Automobile Delivery Wagon. 113 - FIG. 176. An Electro-Magnet Derrick. 118 - FIGS. 177-179. The Electro-Magnet. 119 - FIG. 180. How the Electro-Magnet is Connected up. 120 - FIG. 181. A Home-made Switch. 121 - FIG. 182. Details of Switch. 121 - FIG. 183. Detail of Mast. 122 - FIG. 184. Detail of Pulley. 122 - FIG. 185. Detail of Boom. 122 - FIG. 186. Detail of Derrick Windlass. 123 - FIG. 187. Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine. 125 - FIGS. 188-191. Details of Induction-Coil. 126 - FIGS. 192 and 193. Details of Shocking-coil Handles. 129 - FIG. 194. Interrupter for Shocking-coil. 129 - FIGS. 195-198. Details of Interrupter. 131 - FIG. 199. A Toy Electric Motor Truck. 132 - FIG. 200. Top view of Electric Motor Truck. 133 - FIGS. 201-203. Details of Axle and Belt Shaft. 134 - FIG. 204. Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in Series. 135 - FIG. 205. A Single Cell. 136 - FIGS. 206 and 207. Details of Zinc and Carbon. 136 - FIG. 208. Plan of Motor Truck Bottom. 137 - FIG. 209. Section through Bottom. 137 - FIG. 210. Details of Seat and Canopy-top. 138 - FIG. 211. Pattern of Canopy-top. 139 - FIG. 212. The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery. 140 - FIG. 213. The Box Framework. 141 - FIGS. 214-215. Details of Targets. 142 - FIG. 216. The Card-shooting Pistol. 143 - FIGS. 217-219. Detail of Card-shooting Pistol. 144 - FIG. 220. The Home-made Doll-house. 146 - FIG. 221. Interior View of Doll-house. 146 - FIGS. 222-226. Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for Partitions. 147 - FIG. 227. The Chimney. 148 - FIG. 228. Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs. 149 - FIGS. 229-232. Details of the Elevator. 149 - FIG. 233. The Front Gable-End. 152 - FIGS. 234-237. Details of Stairs. 153 - FIG. 238. Exterior of Stable. 160 - FIG. 239. Interior of Stable. 161 - FIG. 240. Front Gable-End. 162 - FIG. 241. Stall Partitions. 162 - FIG. 242. Ladder to Hay-loft. 163 - FIG. 243. The most stylish Apartments in Doll Town. 166 - FIG. 244. How the three Stories are arranged Side by Side to - form a Six-room Apartment. 166 - FIG. 245. Plan of the Six-Room Doll Apartment. 166 - FIG. 246. The First Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. 167 - FIG. 247. The Second Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. 167 - FIG. 248. The Third Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. 167 - FIG. 249. In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows, leave a - Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a - "Beam." 168 - FIGS. 250 and 251. How the Removable Roof is Constructed. 169 - FIG. 252. How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made. 169 - FIG. 253. The Living-Room Mantel. 171 - FIG. 254. Details of Mantel. 171 - FIGS. 255-258. Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make Them. 172 - FIGS. 259-266. Patterns for Furniture. 177 - FIG. 267. Chairs. 178 - FIG. 268. Chairs. 178 - FIG. 269. A Settee. 179 - FIG. 270. A Table. 179 - FIG. 271. Another Design. 180 - FIG. 272. A Side-board. 181 - FIG. 273. A Mirror. 182 - FIG. 274. A Grandfather's Clock. 183 - FIG. 275. A Bed. 184 - FIG. 276. Another Design. 184 - FIG. 277. A Dresser. 185 - FIG. 278. A Wash-stand. 186 - FIG. 279. A Doll's Folding-bed. 187 - FIG. 280. Folding-bed (open). 188 - FIG. 281. Foot. 188 - FIG. 282. Dresser Completed. 189 - FIG. 283. A Doll's Dresser. 189 - FIG. 286. Cross-section of the Express-wagon. 192 - FIG. 284. AN EXPRESS-WAGON. 192 - FIG. 285. A CART. 192 - FIG. 286. Cross-section of the Express-wagon. 192 - FIGS. 287 and 288. An Auto Delivery-wagon built of - Cigar-boxes. Frontispiece - FIG. 289. A Jack-in-the-box. 194 - FIG. 290. The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box. 194 - FIG. 291. A round-seated Chair. 194 - FIG. 292. A round Center-table. 194 - FIG. 293. A Dining-table. 194 - FIG. 294. A square-seated Chair. 194 - FIG. 295. A Doll's Cradle. 194 - FIG. 296. Pedestal of Center-table. 194 - FIG. 297. Leg of Dining-table. 194 - FIG. 298. Pattern for Cradle Rockers. 195 - FIG. 299. Doll Carriage. 196 - FIGS. 300-302. Details of Doll Carriage. 197 - FIG. 303. Baby Carriage Hood. 198 - FIG. 304. Diagram of Hood. 198 - FIG. 305. Carriage Handles. 198 - FIG. 306. The Two-wheel Cart. 199 - FIG. 307-309. Details of Cart. 199 - FIG. 310. Merry-go-round. 200 - FIG. 311. Teeter. 200 - FIG. 312. Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter. 200 - FIG. 313. Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and Teeter. 200 - FIG. 314. Doll Swing. 201 - FIG. 315. Detail of Swing. 201 - FIGS. 316 and 317. Details of Swing Seat. 202 - FIG. 318. Sofa. 202 - FIGS. 319-321. Details of Sofa. 203 - FIG. 322. Chair. 203 - FIG. 323. Square Center-table. 203 - FIG. 324. Round Center-table. 203 - FIG. 325. The home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door. 206 - FIG. 326. The home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair BackK. 206 - FIG. 327. Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-box. 206 - FIG. 328. Diagram for Making Top. 206 - FIG. 329. Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-Drop. 206 - FIG. 330. Diagram for Making Front Piece of Letter-Drop. 206 - FIG. 331. The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be put - Together. 207 - FIG. 332. Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back of - Letter-Drop. 207 - FIG. 333. Ends of Letter-Drop. 207 - FIG. 334. Front of Letter-Drop. 207 - FIG. 335. Top, with Letter-Drop Completed. 207 - FIG. 336. Diagram for Making Collection-drop. 208 - FIG. 337. How the Collection-drop is Folded. 208 - FIG. 338. The Collection-drop Hinged in Place. 208 - FIG. 339. The Complete Reflectoscope. 210 - FIG. 340. Detail of Ventilator Top. 210 - FIG. 341. Plan of Reflectoscope. 211 - FIG. 342. Cross-section of Reflectoscope 211 - FIGS. 343 and 344. Details of Lens Mounting 213 - FIG. 345. View of Back of Reflectoscope 213 - FIG. 346. Detail of Post Card Holder. 213 - - - - - HOME-MADE TOYS - FOR - GIRLS AND BOYS - - - - - HOME-MADE TOYS - -[Illustration] - - FOR GIRLS AND BOYS - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER I - -HOME-MADE WINDMILLS - - -No mechanical toy is more interesting to make, nor more interesting to -watch in operation, than a miniature windmill. It is a very simple toy -to construct, and the material for making one can usually be found at -hand, which are two reasons why nearly every boy and girl at one time or -another builds one. - -=The Paper Pinwheel= shown in Fig. 1 is one of the best whirlers ever -devised. A slight forward thrust of the stick handle upon which it is -mounted starts it in motion, and when you run with the stick extended in -front of you it whirls at a merry speed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 1.--The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to -Make.] - -A piece of paper 8 or 10 inches square is needed for the pinwheel. Fold -this piece of paper diagonally from corner to corner, both ways. Then -open the paper, and with a pair of scissors cut along the diagonal -creases, from the corners to within 1/2 inch of the center (Fig. 2). -Next, fold corners _A_, _B_, _C_, and _D_ over to the center, as shown -in Fig. 3, run a pin through the corners and through the center of the -sheet of paper, drive the point of this pin into the end of the stick -handle, and the pinwheel will be completed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Diagram for Paper Pinwheel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 3.--How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded.] - -=The Pinion-wheel Windmill= in Fig. 4 may be made of cardboard or tin. A -circular piece 10 or 12 inches in diameter is required. After marking -out the outer edge with a compass, describe an inner circle about 1 inch -inside of it; then draw two lines through the center at right angles to -each other, and another pair at an angle of 45 degrees to these. These -lines are shown by the heavy radial lines in Fig. 5. One-half inch from -each of these lines draw a parallel line, as indicated by dotted lines -in Fig. 5. The next thing to do is to cut out the disk, and cut along -the heavy lines just as far as the lines are shown in the diagram (Fig. -5), and then to bend up the blades thus separated, to an angle of about -45 degrees, bending on the second set of radial lines (dotted lines in -Fig. 5). - -[Illustration: FIG. 4.--A Pinion-wheel Windmill.] - -You had better make a cardboard pinion-wheel first, then a tin one -afterwards, as cardboard is so much easier to cut. A pair of heavy -shears will be necessary for cutting a tin wheel, and a cold chisel for -separating the edges of the blades. - -[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill.] - -=To Mount the Pinion-wheel= drive a long nail through the center, -through the hole in a spool, and into the end of a stick. Then nail the -stick to a post or a fence top. - -=The Four-blade Windmill= shown in Fig. 6 has a hub 4 inches in diameter -and 1 inch thick (Fig. 7). This should be cut out of hard wood. Draw two -lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each -other. Then carry these lines across the edge of the block, not at right -angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees. Saw along these -lines to a depth of 1-1/4 inches. The ends of the windmill blades are to -fit in these slots. - -Cut the blades of equal size, 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the wide -edge, and 1-1/2 inches wide on the narrow edge, and fasten them in the -slots with nails. - -[Illustration: FIG. 6.--A Four-blade Windmill.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 7.--Hub.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 8.--How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.] - -With the blades in position, pivot the hub to the end of the windmill -shaft, a stick 20 inches long (Fig. 6). The end opposite to that to -which the hub is pivoted is whittled round, and slotted with a saw to -receive a tail (Fig. 8). The tail may be of the same size as the blades, -though it is shown shorter in the illustration. - -=Mount the Windmill= upon a post, pivoting its shaft at the balancing -center with a nail or screw. Bore a hole large enough so the shaft will -turn freely upon the pivot, and the windmill will thus keep headed into -the wind. - -=The Eight-blade Windmill= in Fig. 9 has a spool hub (Fig. 10), and -blades made of cigar-box wood, shingles, tin, or cardboard (Fig. 11). -You will see by Figs. 10 and 11 that the blades are nailed to the side -of short spoke sticks, and the sticks are driven into holes bored in the -spool hub. The hub turns on the rounded end of the shaft stick (Fig. -12), and the square end of this shaft is slotted to receive the -fan-shaped tail (Figs. 12 and 13). - -[Illustration: FIG. 9.--An Eight-blade Windmill.] - -=For the Hub= use a large ribbon-spool. You can get one at any drygoods -store. Locate eight holes around the center of the spool at equal -distances from one another, and bore these with a gimlet or bit, or cut -them with the small blade of your jack-knife. - -=Cut the Eight Blades= 6 inches long, 5 inches wide on their wide edge, -and 1-1/2 inches wide on their narrow edge. Prepare the hub sticks about -1/2 inch by 3/4 inch by 4-1/2 inches in size, and whittle one end -pointed to fit in the hub (Fig. 11). Fasten the blades to the spokes -with nails long enough to drive through the spokes and clinch on the -under side. Glue the spokes in the hub holes, turning them so the blades -will stand at about the angle shown. - -[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Spool Hub.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 11.--Blades.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Shaft.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Tail.] - -=The Shaft= should be made of a hard wood stick about 3/4 inch by 1-1/2 -inches by 30 inches in size. Cut the round end small enough so the hub -will turn freely on it, and punch a small hole through it so a brad may -be driven through to hold the hub in place. Cut the slot in the square -end with a saw. - -=Cut the Tail= of the shape shown in Fig. 13. - -=Pivot the Windmill= upon the top of a post support, in the same manner -as directed for the other windmills. - -Figure 14 shows how the toy windmill may be rigged up - -[Illustration: FIG. 14.--How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a -Toy Jumping-jack.] - -=To Operate a Toy Jumping-jack=, by supporting the jumping-jack on a -bracket, and connecting its string to the hub of the windmill. You can -make your jumping-jack like the one in Fig. 110, the details of which -are shown in Fig. 113. - -Cut the upright of the bracket (_A_, Figs. 14 and 15) 14 inches long, -and the crosspiece (_B_) 7 inches long. Nail _A_ to _B_, and nail the -jumping-jack at its center to the end of _B_ (Fig. 15). Fasten the -triangular block (_C_) to the lower end of _A_, and then nail both _A_ -and _C_ to the edge of the shaft at a point that will bring the string -of the jumping-jack a trifle beyond the windmill blades. - -Fasten a small stick with a brad driven in one end, in notches cut in -the hub's flanges (Fig. 16), and connect the brad and Jack's string with -a piece of wire or strong string. Then as the windmill revolves it will -operate the toy in the manner indicated in Figs. 14 and 15. - -[Illustration: FIG. 15.--How the Jumping-jack is Supported.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Spool Hub.] - - - - -CHAPTER II - -HOME-MADE KITES - - -The Malay tailless kite is probably the most practical kind ever -invented. It will fly in a wind that the tail variety could not -withstand, and it will fly in a breeze too light to carry up most other -forms of kites. It is also a strong pulling kite, and can be used for -sending aloft lanterns and flags. For the purpose of lifting, the -pulling strength can be doubled by flying two Malays in tandem. - -[Illustration: FIG. 17.--A Malay Tailless Kite.] - -=How to Make a Malay.= Figure 17 shows a Malay kite in flight, Fig. 18 -a detail of the completed kite, Fig. 19 the completed framework, and -Figs. 20, 21, and 22 the details for preparing the frame sticks. - -=The Sticks.= This kite has a vertical stick and a bow-stick, each of -which should be 40 inches long, about 3/4 inch wide, and 3/8 inch thick, -for a kite of medium size. In the cutting of the sticks lies half the -secret of making a kite that will fly successfully. - -Drive a small nail or large tack into each end of the two sticks, to -fasten the framing-string to (Figs. 20 and 21), and notch the side edges -of the bow-stick near each end for the attachment of the bow-string -(Figs. 21 and 22). - -The amount to bend the bow-stick is important. For a kite with a bow 40 -inches long the distance between the string and stick should be 6 inches -(Fig. 21). Use a strong twine for the bow-string, and tie it securely to -the notched ends. - -[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached.] - -=Framing the Sticks.= Fasten the bow-stick at its exact center to the -vertical stick, placing it 4 inches down from the top of the vertical -stick, as indicated in Fig. 19. Drive a couple of brads through the two -sticks to hold them together, and then reinforce the connection by -wrapping the joint with strong linen thread, crossing the thread in the -manner shown. - -When the two sticks have been joined, connect their ends with the -framing-string. Stretch this string from stick to stick, and tie -securely to the end nails. Instead of the end nails, the sticks may be -notched to receive the framing-string, but the nails are more -satisfactory because the string can be tied fast to them and will not -slip. - -=Covering the Framework.= The strong light-weight brown wrapping-paper -now so generally used makes an excellent covering for the framework. A -few sheets can be purchased at a near-by store for the purpose. You will -likely have to paste together two or more sheets to make one large -enough. The paper should be placed on the outer face of the bow-stick, -and should be allowed a little fullness instead of being stretched tight -as on hexagonal tail kites. Lap the edges of the paper over the -framing-string in the ordinary way of covering a kite. - -[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Framework of Malay Kite.] - -=Attach the Bridle= at the intersection of the bow-stick and vertical -stick, and at the lower end of the vertical stick (Fig. 18), and make it -of the right length so when held over to one side it will reach to the -end of the bow, as indicated in Fig. 18. Tie the flying line securely at -the point _A_ (Fig. 18); then the kite will be ready for its maiden -flight. - -=Flying-Line.= The kind of cord which a mason uses for his plumb-lines -is splendid for flying the Malay kite. If you cannot get some balls of -this, be certain that what you do get can be relied upon, because it is -provoking to lose a kite which you have taken a great deal of pains in -making, through the breaking of the flying line. - -[Illustration: FIG. 20.--Detail of Vertical Stick.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Detail of Bow-Stick.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Detail of End of Bow-Stick.] - -=The Box-Kite.= Of the more pretentious kites, none is as popular as the -rectangular box-kite. - -Box-kites may be purchased ready-made in a number of sizes, but they are -not cheap, and it will pay any boy to take the time necessary to make -one. While their construction requires considerable more work than the -single-plane type of kite, it is not difficult. - -Figures 23 and 24 show a kite of scientifically developed proportions. -Pine, spruce, and whitewood are the best materials for - -=The Kite Sticks=, though any strong, light-weight wood of straight -grain may be used if easier to obtain. If you live near a lumber yard or -planing-mill, possibly you can get strips of just the size you require -from the waste heap, for the mere asking, or for a few cents get them -ripped out of a board. If not, you will find it easy enough to cut them -yourself with a sharp rip-saw. - -[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Raising the Box-Kite.] - -=The Side Frames.= Cut the four horizontal sticks 3/8 inch thick and 3/8 -inch wide, by 36 inches long (_A_, Fig. 25), and the four upright -connecting sticks (_B_, Fig. 25) 1/4 inch thick, 1/2 inch wide, and 10 -inches long. Tack the upright sticks to the horizontal ones 6 inches -from the ends of the latter, as shown in Fig. 25, using slender brads -for the purpose, and clinching the projecting ends. In fastening these -sticks, be careful to set sticks _B_ at right angles to sticks _A_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 24.--The Box-Kite.] - -After fastening together the side-frame sticks as shown in Fig. 25, lay -them aside until you have prepared the cross-section of the kite. - -[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Make Two Side Frames like this.] - -=The Covering for the End Cells.= A light-weight muslin or tough paper -should be used for this material. Cheese-cloth will do if you give it a -coat of thin varnish to fill up the pores and make it air-tight, after -it has been put on. The light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so -commonly used is good covering material. - -The cell bands for the kite illustrated should be 10 inches wide and 5 -feet 9 inches long. If of cloth, they should be hemmed along each edge -to prevent raveling and to make a firm edge. If of paper, the edges -should be folded over a light framing-cord and pasted. Sew together the -ends of the cloth bands, or paste the ends of the paper bands, lapping -them so the measurement around the inside will be exactly 5 feet 8 -inches, the proper measurement around the sticks of the finished kite. - -[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Cross-section of the Box-Kite.] - -=Assembling the Kite.= Slip the bands over the side frames, spread the -frames to their fullest extent, and hold them in this position by means -of sticks sprung in temporarily between upright sticks _B_. Then measure -the proper length for the diagonal braces _C_ (Fig. 26). These sticks -should be notched at their ends to fit over the sticks _A_, as shown in -Fig. 27, and they should be a trifle long so they will be slightly -bow-shaped when put in place. In this way the frames will keep the cloth -or paper bands stretched tight. - -The notched ends of the diagonals should be _lashed_ with thread to keep -them from splitting. Lashings of thread around the frame sticks _A_, as -shown in Figs. 25 and 27, will keep the ends of the braces from slipping -away from the uprights _B_, which is the proper position for them. Bind -the braces together at their centers with thread, as shown in Figs. 24 -and 26. Coat the lashings with glue after winding them, and the thread -will hold its position better. - -The cloth or paper bands should be fastened to each horizontal frame -stick with two tacks placed near the edges of the bands. - -[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Detail of Diagonal Braces.] - -There are several methods of - -=Attaching the Bridle=, but that shown in Fig. 24 is generally -considered the most satisfactory. Of course, the kite is flown other -side up, with the bridle underneath. The three-point attachment has -cords fastened at the two outer corners of one cell, and a third cord to -the center of the outer edge of the other cell; and the four-point -attachment has cords attached at the four outer corners of the kite. -The ends of the bridle should be brought together and tied at a distance -of about 3 feet from the kite. It is a good plan to connect the ends to -a fancy-work ring. - -[Illustration: Fig. 28.--A Good Hand Kite-reel.] - -=A Good Hand Kite-reel= that can be held in one hand and operated by the -other is shown in Fig. 28. Get a 1/2-lb. size baking-powder can for the -winding-spool, locate the center of the cover and bottom end, and with a -can-opener cut a hole 1 inch in diameter through each (Fig. 29). Then -cut two wooden disks 5 inches in diameter for the spool flanges. These -may be cut out of thin wood. If you do not wish to take the trouble to -cut them round, just saw off the four corners diagonally, making the -pieces octagonal. Bore a 1-inch hole through the center of each piece. -Tack the can cover to the exact center of one disk, as shown in Fig. 30, -and the can to the exact center of the other. Then fit the cover on the -can, and glue a strip of cloth or heavy paper around the joint to keep -the cover from working off, and the spool will be completed. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 29 and 30.--Details of Hand Kite-reel.] - -The axle upon which the spool turns is a piece of broom-handle 10 inches -or so in length (Fig. 30). Bore two holes through it in the positions -shown, for pins to keep the spool in its proper place. Wooden pegs can -be cut for pins. For a winding handle, pivot a spool on the right-hand -disk by means of a nail or screw. The inner flange of the spool handle -may be cut off as shown in Fig. 28. - -Both hands are frequently needed to haul in string quickly enough to -bring a kite around into the wind, or to handle it when it pulls very -strong, and then there is nothing to do but drop the hand reel upon the -ground, unless you have an assistant to give it to. This is where the -advantage of - -[Illustration: FIG. 31.--A Body Kite-reel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Detail of Axle Support.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Detail of Crank.] - -=A Body Kite-reel= comes in. With it strapped about the waist, it will -go wherever you go, and always be within easy reach. Figure 31 shows one -simple to make. The spool of this is made similar to that of the hand -reel shown in Fig. 28. If, however, you wish a larger winding-spool, you -can use a larger can than the baking-powder can--a tomato can or syrup -can--and increase the diameter of the wooden flanges accordingly. -Instead of the spool turning upon the broom-handle axle, the axle turns -with the spool, so the spool must be fastened to the axle. - -The axle supports _A_ (Figs. 31 and 32) should be about 7 inches long, 4 -inches wide at the wide end, and 2 inches wide at the narrow end. Cut -the holes to receive the axle ends a trifle large so the axle will turn -easily. Cut the connecting crosspieces _B_ of the right length so there -will be about 1/4 inch between the ends of the spool and supports _A_. - -Cut the crank stick _C_ as shown in Fig. 33, bore a hole for the axle -end to fit in, bore another hole in the edge for a set-screw to hold the -stick in place on the axle end, and pivot a spool in place for a handle. -If the hole in the spool is too large for the head of the nail used for -pivoting, slip a small iron or leather washer over the nail. - -An old belt or shawl-strap should be used for strapping the kite-reel to -your body. Fasten this to the ends of the axle supports _A_ by nailing -the strips _D_ to them as shown in Fig. 32. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE - - -Model aeronautics has become nearly as popular as kite flying, and girls -as well as boys have taken to building these unique air toys. - -The model aeroplane requires more work than ordinary kite construction. -It also requires more patience and greater accuracy, because each part -of the little aircraft must be made just so, assembled just so, and -"tuned-up" just so, to produce a model which will give a good account of -itself. Of course your first model will probably not be perfect. But if -you do your work correctly and carefully it will fly, and the experience -you have acquired will make it possible to turn out a more nearly -perfect second model. - -Many types of model aeroplanes have been devised, but those of the -simplest form of construction have made the best showing. The majority -of record-breaking models have been of one type--a triangular framework, -equipped with two planes, and a pair of propellers operated by a pair of -rubber-strand motors. A most successful model of this type is shown in -Fig. 34, and described and illustrated on the following pages. This -model has a distance record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of -Illinois' aviation field at Cicero, Chicago, where it flew 16 feet -beyond the fence of the 160 acre field. The model weighs but 5-1/2 -ounces, has 9-inch propellers of 27 inch pitch, and is in every -essential a speed machine. - -[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Launching a Model Aeroplane.] - -The first part of the model to make is the triangular - -=Fuselage=, or _motor base_. This consists of two side sticks, -_splines_, or _spars_ (_A_, Fig. 35) of straight-grained white pine cut -to the dimensions marked upon the drawing, with their bow ends beveled -off for a distance of 1-1/4 inches, glued together, and bound with -thread. The stern ends have a spread of 8 inches, and are braced at that -distance by the _separator B_ (Fig. 35). This separator is fastened -flatwise between sticks _A_, and its edges are reduced as shown in the -small section drawing of Fig. 37 so they will offer less resistance to -the air. This piece is fastened between sticks _A_ with brads. -Separators _C_, _D_, and _E_ are of the sizes marked in Fig. 35, and of -the proper length to fit between side sticks A at the places indicated -on the drawing. They are cut oval-shaped, as shown in the small section -drawing in Fig. 37. - -[Illustration: FIG. 35.--Plan. - -FIG. 36.--Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor). - -FIGS. 35 and 36.--Working-drawings of Model Aeroplane Designed and Built -by Harry Wells. This Model has a record of 1620 feet made at the Aero -Club of Illinois' Aviation Field at Cicero, Chicago.] - -Before fastening the separators in position, - -=The Thrust Bearings= for the propellers, and the _end plates_ for -connecting the wire _stays_, must be prepared. Figure 38 shows a -dimensioned detail of the thrust bearings, and Fig. 37 shows how they -are bound to the ends of sticks _A_ with thread. These are cut out of -brass, bent into the shape shown, and have a hole pierced through the -folded tip for the propeller-shaft to run through, another through one -end for the brad to pass through that pins stick _A_ to _B_, and another -through the other end to fasten the end of the wire stays to. The small -detail in Fig. 37 shows the end plates for the wire stays. These are -made no longer than is necessary for the connecting holes for the -wire-stay ends. Pierce a hole through the center of each plate for the -brad to pass through which fastens sticks _A_ to the ends of the -separators. The plates are bound to sticks _A_ with thread. - -[Illustration: FIG. 37.--Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells -Model.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 38.--Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and -Connections.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is -Connected to it.] - -=The Bow Hooks= support the bow ends of the rubber motor, and are made -upon the ends of a piece of heavy piano-wire bent V-shaped to fit over -the ends of sticks _A_ (Fig. 39). Bind the wire to the sticks with -thread, coating the thread with glue to make it hold fast (Fig. 37). - -=The Main Plane= has a framework built as shown in Fig. 40, with the -front or _entering-edge_, and the rear or _following_-_edge_, made of -sticks of white pine or other light-weight wood, and the _ribs_ and -_tips_ on the ends made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. The ends of the -frame sticks are cut away on their outer edge, to receive the ends of -the wire forming the tips, and the ends of these wires, and the laps of -the wire ribs, are bound in position with thread, and the thread then -coated with glue to hold it in position. - -=The Elevator=, or front plane, has a framework made as shown in Fig. -41. Its entering-edge is a stick, and its following-edge, ribs, and end -tips, are made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. You will notice by Fig. 41 -that the center ribs cross the following-edge of the frame and are bent -up in the form of a flat loop. This loop rests against the under side of -the fuselage, and gives the elevator its proper angle for stability -(Fig. 36). The tips are bent up to add stability. - -The frames of the main plane and elevator are covered with china-silk, -which may either be sewed or glued in place, and this is given a thin -coat of shellac to make it air-tight and taut. The covering must be put -on smoothly to reduce to a minimum what is known as _skin -resistance_--the resistance that the plane makes to the air while -passing through it. - -The main plane and elevator are held to the fuselage by means of -rubber-bands slipped beneath them and over the fuselage, and unlike the -planes of the majority of models, are fastened to the under side of the -fuselage. Figure 36 shows the approximate position of the elevator. That -of the main plane will vary under different air conditions, sometimes -being placed over the separator _C_, and at other times closer to -separator _B_ than is shown in Fig. 35. Therefore, you must adjust your -plane and elevator--this operation is known as _tuning_--to suit the -condition of the atmosphere, until you find the positions where they -will give the machine the greatest stability. A great factor in the -successful flight of a model aeroplane lies in properly tuning the -planes, both laterally and longitudinally, and of course the planes must -balance at their centers, in order to make the machine balance properly. - -[Illustration: FIG. 40.--Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells -Model.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 41.--Detail of the Elevator Framework.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Detail of Fin.] - -=The Fin= directly over the center of the elevator (Figs. 34 and 36) is -provided for stability, and may be used as a rudder by turning it -slightly to one side or the other. It is made of No. 34 gauge sheet -aluminum, cut to the form shown in Fig. 42. Its vertical edge is bent -around a piece of heavy wire, as shown in the plan detail of Fig. 42, -and the lower end of the wire is fastened upright between the bow ends -of sticks _A_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 43.--The Wells Model Propeller.] - -=The Propellers= are the most difficult part of the model aeroplane to -make. They must be very accurately cut, and must be of identical size -and _pitch_. The pitch of a propeller is, theoretically, the distance -forward that it advances in one complete revolution. - -Figure 43 shows one of the propellers of Harry Wells' machine, which is -9 inches in length and has a 27-inch pitch. Figure 44 shows - -=How to Prepare the Propellers=. The pair must be opposites, that is, -one must be of right-hand pitch and the other of left-hand pitch, or, in -other words, the upper end of the right-hand pitch propeller turns to -the right, and that of the left-hand pitch propeller turns to the left, -when viewing them from the rear. - -[Illustration: FIG. 44.--How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller.] - -Step _A_ consists in properly planing up a straight-grained block of -white pine 1-1/2 inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 9 inches long, with -its sides and ends straight and true, for - -=The Propeller Blank=. Draw a line around the four faces of this block -at the exact center of the length. Then on faces _C_ and _D_, lay off a -distance of 1/2 inch on the center-line, measuring from the edge of face -=B=, for the thickness of the propeller-hub, and draw diagonal lines -from the upper and lower left-hand corners of faces _C_ and _D_ to the -end of the hub center-line (Step _B_). Then cut away the portions -outside of these lines, as shown in Step _C_. Lay out the hub upon faces -_A_ and _B_ of the block, with a 1/2-inch diameter, and bore a small -hole through the center to receive the propeller-shaft (Step _C_). Draw -diagonals from the corners to the center-line of the hub (Step _D_); -then cut away the wood outside of these lines (Step _E_). - -The next step (_F_) consists in laying out the form of the propeller -blade upon all four sides and ends of the block, and Step _G_ is the -final one of cutting out the propeller, scooping out its blades concave -on one side, and carving them convex on the opposite side. A very sharp -knife must be used for cutting; and the work must be done slowly and -carefully, because the least slip is likely to ruin the propeller. The -_entering-edge_ of each blade is the almost straight edge, and should be -cut very thin. The ends of the blades should also be cut thin, while the -hub should be cut away as much as can safely be done without weakening -the propeller. - -When you have completed cutting the propellers, place them at their -centers across the edge of a knife-blade, and if they do not balance -perfectly, locate the trouble and correct it. Finish the work with fine -emery-paper, and then shellac it. Some boys glue silk over the ends of -their propeller blades, for a distance of 1/2 inch or so, to reinforce -them and make them less likely to split. - -=The Propeller-shafts= are made of heavy piano-wire, bent into a hook at -one end (Fig. 38) to receive the rubber strands of the motor, and cut of -the right length to extend through the hole in the bearing, through a -glass bead, through the propeller, and then to bend over the side of the -hub (Figs. 37 and 38). By bending over the end of the shaft against the -hub, it is held securely in place. - -=The Motors= consist of twelve strands of 1/8-inch flat rubber, each, -and as these are 1 yard in length, exactly 24 yards of rubber are -required. The rubber is not connected direct to the hooks on the bow and -propeller-shafts, as the wire would quickly cut through the strands. -Instead, small rings are bent out of wire, with pieces of small -rubber-tubing slipped over the wire, and the ends of the rubber strands -are looped through these rings and bound in place with thread (Fig. 39). -The wire rings are then slipped on and off the hooks quickly. As light -and heat cause rubber to deteriorate, you must remove the motors from -the machine after use, pack away in a covered box, and keep in a cool -place, in order to get the longest life possible out of the rubber. - -It has been found that rubber motors can be wound much farther by -lubricating them with glycerine. It is only necessary to put a few drops -of the glycerine upon a clean cloth, and rub it over the outside -strands; then wind the motors, and it will work over the surface of the -inner strands until all parts are covered. - -[Illustration: FIG. 45.--A Home-made Motor Winder.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 46.--The Kind of Egg-beater to Use.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 47.--How the Motors are Connected to Winder for -Winding.] - -Of course the rubber motors must be twisted an equal number of turns, in -order to make the propellers work the same, and this is usually done -with an ingenious winder made from an egg-beater, which winds both -motors simultaneously. - -=The Home-made Motor-winder= shown in Fig. 45 is made from a Dover -egg-beater (Fig. 46). To convert the egg-beater into a winder, it is -necessary to cut off the loop ends and the center pivot wires on which -the loops turn. Then bend the cut-off ends of the loops into hooks, and -punch them to fit over the pivot wire ends, as before (Fig. 45). The -ends of the pivot wires must be riveted to keep the hooks in position. - -Figure 47 shows - -=How the Egg-beater Winds the Motors=. While an assistant supports the -model by the propeller end, you remove the motor rings from the hooks on -the bow of the fuselage, and slip them on to the hooks of the -egg-beater. Then you turn the crank of the winder, counting the turns as -you do so, and when you have wound the motors as far as you wish, slip -off the motor rings, and slip them back on to the bow hooks of the model -aeroplane. Motors of models like that shown in this chapter are wound -one-thousand turns or more for each flight. - -=Wind the Motors Slowly=, especially after the first row of knots begin, -as it puts the rubber to the least amount of strain by doing this. Quick -winding not only strains the rubber but makes the knots form in bunches, -and uneven winding, of course, produces an uneven unwinding. - -The propellers must be held after the motors have been wound, to keep -them in check. Figure 34 shows - -=The Position to Take for Launching a Model= from the hand. The machine -should not be thrown forward, as the movement would cause too great a -disturbance of the air, resulting in the machine losing its stability, -and probably upsetting. The best method is to give the model a slight -push that will start it off at a speed a trifle under that produced by -its propellers. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT - - -The toy motor-boat shown in Figs. 48 and 49 is propelled by a tin -propeller run by a rubber-band motor. A handful of rubber-bands will -cost only a few cents, and the rest of the working material can be -picked up at home. - -[Illustration: FIG. 49.--The Completed Motor-boat.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 50.--Stern, with Motor in Place.] - -=Prepare the Bottom of the Hull= out of a piece of wood 1 inch thick, -making it of the shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 51. Be careful to -curve the side edges the same. Use a saw for cutting out the piece, then -smooth up the edges with a plane and sandpaper. The stern should be -sawed off on a bevel as shown in Fig. 52. - -[Illustration: FIG. 51.--Diagram of Hull.] - -=The Sides= of the hull (_B_, Figs. 52 and 53) are thin strips 2-1/2 -inches wide. Nail one to one edge of the bottom block, then saw off the -bow end on a line with the bow of the bottom block, and the stern end on -the same slant as the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block. With -one piece in position, nail on the second side and trim off its ends. If -you have any difficulty in making a neat joint between the bow ends of -sides _B_, take a piece of tin from a can, bend it around the bow, and -tack it in place as shown in Fig. 48. The stern piece (_C_, Figs. 53 and -54) should be cut next, to fit the slanted ends of the sides. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 52 and 53.--How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck -Pieces are Assembled.] - -=The Deck= (_D_) extends from the bow almost to the center of the boat. -Its top surface should taper in its length and curve from side to side. -The piece may be whittled or planed to this shape. Fasten it with brads -to the top edges of the sides of the boat. - -[Illustration: FIG. 48.--LAUNCHING THE TOY MOTOR-BOAT.] - -=To Complete the Boat=, go over the work carefully, trim off all -projecting edges, drive nail heads beneath the surfaces, putty nail -holes and cracks, and give the wood two coats of paint of whatever color -you want to have the motor-boat. - -=The Propeller= (_E_, Fig. 54) is cut from the side of a tin can. Cut a -piece 3 inches long and 3/4 inch wide, round its ends, and with the -point of a nail pierce a hole through it each side of the center of the -length of the piece (Fig. 55). To finish the propeller, it is only -necessary to take hold of the two ends and twist the piece into the -shape shown in Fig. 56. - -=The Propeller-shaft= requires a short piece of wire with one end bent -into a hook (_F_, Fig. 56). Stick the straight end of this shaft through -one hole in the propeller, and the hooked end through the other hole, -then twist the hooked end over on to the main part of the shaft, as -shown in Fig. 57. Make a tight twist so the propeller will be held -perfectly rigid on the shaft. - -=The Bearing Plate= _G_ (Figs. 54 and 58) supports the propeller. Cut it -out of a piece of tin 1-1/2 inches wide by 3 inches long, bend it in -half crosswise to give it stiffness, and then bend it lengthwise to the -angle shown so it will fit over the slanted stern of the boat. Punch two -holes through the upper end for nailing the plate to the stern, and a -hole at the lower end for the propeller-shaft to run through. - -=For a Thrust Bearing=, slip a couple of beads over the propeller-shaft, -between the propeller and bearing plate _G_. Probably you can find -glass beads in your mother's button bag. - - -[Illustration: FIG. 54.--Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 55-59.--Details of Propeller.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 60.--Rubber-band Motor.] - -After slipping the beads on to the shaft, and sticking the shaft through -the hole in bearing plate _G_, bend the end of the shaft into a hook; -then screw a small screw-hook into the bottom of the hull, at the bow -end (_I_, Fig. 54), and you will be ready for - -=The Rubber-band Motor.= Rubber-bands about 1-1/2 inches in length are -best for the purpose. Loop these together end to end (Fig. 60) to form a -strand that will reach from hook _I_ to the hook on the propeller-shaft; -then form three more strands of this same length, and slip the end loops -of all four strands over the hooks. - -=To Wind the Motor=, give the propeller about one hundred turns with -your finger; then, keep hold of the propeller until you launch the boat. - -There are many ways of elaborating upon the design and construction of -this toy motor-boat, but, having given the necessary instructions for -building a simple model, I am going to leave further development for you -to work out. Here is an opportunity for you to use your ingenuity. -Devise an adjustable rudder, add a keel, finish off the cockpit with a -coaming, install a headlight made from a pocket flashlight--in fact, see -just how complete a motor-boat model you can build. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS - - -You can own a water-motor like the one shown in Fig. 61, because its -construction requires nothing but easily obtained materials. - -[Illustration: FIG. 61.--A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation.] - -=The Case= of this water-motor is made of an empty varnish -can--preferably one of gallon capacity. Nothing better could be desired. -The tin can makes a light-weight compact case; the spout in the top is in -just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power -from a faucet; and as the water connections can be made tight there is -no possibility of water splashing on to the floor--a big argument in -your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub, -wash-basin, or kitchen sink. - -You can get an empty varnish can from any painter, or at a paint store. -The first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in -removing the bottom. You will find this soldered in place, in all -probability, and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the -flame of a gas burner until the solder melts, when a few taps upon the -edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off. - -[Illustration: FIG. 62.--The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor.] - -=The Water-motor Wheel= is shown in the cross-sections of the -water-motor (Figs. 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 show its details. The -diameter of the wheel should be about 1/2 inch less than the inside -width of the can. In the model from which the drawings were made, this -measurement is 5-1/2 inches. Cut the two side pieces of the wheel out of -a piece of cigar-box wood, and bore a 1/4-inch hole through the center -of each for the wheel axle. Fasten a spool to the center of one side -piece for a pulley-wheel (Fig. 66). - -[Illustration: FIGS. 63 and 64.--Sections through Water-motor Case.] - -=Prepare Eight Paddles= 1-3/4 inches wide and 2-1/2 inches long, out of -cigar-box wood. Locate the positions for the ends of the paddles, upon -the side pieces, by drawing a horizontal line, a vertical line, and two -diagonal lines at angles of 45 degrees, through their centers. This -will simplify the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one -another (Fig. 67). Use brads for fastening the side pieces to the paddle -ends. Those removed from the cigar boxes will do. - -=The Wheel Shaft= should be a trifle shorter than the inside width of -the can, and enough smaller than the 1/4-inch hole in the wheel side -pieces so the wheel will turn freely. Locate the centers for the axle -upon the two sides of the can, in the proper position so there will be -the same margin above and at the ends of the wheel. Drive a nail through -each side of the can into the axle end. - -[Illustration: FIG. 65.--The Completed Water-motor Wheel.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 66 and 67.--Details of Water-motor Wheel.] - -=An Outlet= for the water after it has passed over the wheel paddles -must be provided, and the best way is to fasten a strip to two opposite -sides of the can so as to raise the bottom about an inch, as shown in -Figs. 62, 63, and 64. - -=For a Pulley-belt= use a piece of heavy cord. Cut a slot through the -front of the can for the belt to run through, and make this slot large -enough so the cord will not rub against the sides (Fig. 63). - -=Pulley-wheels= for attaining different speeds can be made of spools of -various sizes. A bicycle wheel with the tire removed, mounted in a -frame, is excellent for a large wheel. - -=Connecting up the Water-motor.= If you operate the water-motor in the -kitchen sink, you can either build a platform as shown in Fig. 61, to -bring the spout of the varnish-can case up to the level of the faucet, -or you can set the water-motor in the sink and lead a piece of rubber -tubing from the spout to the faucet, as shown in Fig. 68. If you use the -latter arrangement, slip the lower end of the rubber tubing over a short -piece of glass, brass, or tin tubing, and stick the short tubing through -a hole in a cork large enough to fit the spout of the varnish-can case -(Fig. 69). If you raise the water-motor high enough so the faucet will -set down into the spout, you can cut a large enough hole for the faucet, -through a cork, and then fit the cork in the spout as shown in Fig. 64. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 68-69.--How to Make a Water-tight Connection -between Faucet and Water-motor.] - -=Another Water-motor.= The little water-motor in Fig. 70 will furnish -sufficient power to operate simple mechanical toys. - -=The Water-motor Wheel.= Procure two baking-powder can covers for the -ends of the water-motor wheel (_A_, Fig. 72), a cigar-box out of which -to make the wheel paddles, and a stick 1/4 inch square and 5 inches long -for the wheel axle (_B_, Fig. 72). - -[Illustration: FIG. 70.--A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a -Wash-basin.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 71.--The Water-motor Wheel.] - -Cut eight paddles from the cigar-box wood 1 inch wide and 5 inches long. -Take a pair of these strips and fasten them to one can cover, in line -with each other, and close against the sides of the cover (_C_, Fig. -73). Fasten with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends -of the strips. Take another pair of strips and fasten them to the same -cover, in a similar manner, at right angles to pair _C_ (_D_, Fig. 72). -Then tack the pairs of strips _E_ and _F_ to the cover halfway between -pairs _C_ and _D_. With the paddles in position, locate the exact center -of the end of the can cover, and drive a nail through at this point into -the end of axle _B_. Slip the free ends of the paddles into the other -can cover, and carefully drive tacks or brads through the cover into -them. Drive a nail through the center of the cover into the end of axle -_B_. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 72 and 73.--Details of Water-motor Wheel.] - -=The Wheel Supports.= Figure 74 shows the supports for the wheel. Cut -the end pieces _G_ 4 inches wide and 6 inches high, and the cross strips -_H_ 1-3/4 inches wide and 5-1/2 inches long. Nail pieces _G_ to _H_, as -shown, allowing the lower ends of _G_ to extend 1/2 inch below strips -_H_, and leaving a space of 1/2 inch between strips _H_. The axle holes -in pieces _G_ (Fig. 74) should be located in the center of the width of -these pieces, and halfway between their tops and strips _H_. Bore the -holes with a gimlet, or make them by driving a large nail through the -pieces, and then withdrawing it. - -=To Mount the Wheel= upon the supports, withdraw the nails driven into -the ends of axle _B_, slip the wheel between uprights _G_, and drive the -nails through the holes in _G_ back into the holes in the axle ends -(Fig. 71). - -[Illustration: FIG. 74.--Support for Water-motor Wheel.] - -=The Pulley Wheel.= One can cover should be converted into a pulley by -winding several turns of string around it, near each edge, leaving a -groove between the string. Coat the string with glue to make it stick -fast to the cover. - -=The Water-motor Case.= Figure 70 shows how the water-motor case is -constructed by fastening boards _N_, _I_, _J_, _K_, _L_, and _M_ to the -wheel supports _G_. There must be a slot through _I_ and another through -_J_, for the string belt to pass through, and a hole through _K_ for -the intake of water from a faucet. These can be cut out of the edges of -the boards, as shown, before they are nailed in place. Leave an opening -between boards _N_ and _M_, and the bottom of ends _G_, for an outlet -for waste water. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY - - -It is often thought that a toy railway is beyond a boy's ingenuity to -construct, whereas, in reality, it is one of the simplest toys he can -make. This applies to the tracks, stations, and cars of every -description, all of which can be made with a few strips of wood, some -spools, nails, cardboard, and a bottle of glue, for materials. If you -have passed the age of caring for such toys as this, you will, no doubt, -enjoy the making of one for your younger brother, or for one of your boy -relatives. - -Figure 76 shows a railway set up and in running order. As shown in the -illustration, - -[Illustration: FIG. 75.--Upright.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 76.--The Toy Railway in Operation.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 77.--Support for Trolley-line.] - -=The Trolley-line=, or overhead cable, runs around the wheels of two -supports, one at either end of the track. Prepare four pieces of wood -the shape and size of that shown in Fig. 75 for the uprights of these -supports, and make two wheels three inches in diameter. The wheels may -be marked out with a home-made compass--a pencil tied to the end of a -piece of string, if you haven't a compass. When the wheels have been cut -out, place them in your bench-vise, one at a time, and with a file make -a groove around the edge as shown at _C_, Fig. 77. Bore a -three-eighths-inch hole through each upright at _F_, Fig. 75, and -another through the center of each wheel. Now fasten two of the uprights -six inches apart upon a block of wood, as shown at _A_ and _B_, Fig. 77. -Whittle a shaft to fit loosely in the holes of the uprights, and, after -slipping it into them, fasten one of the wheels upon one end and a small -spool upon the other (see _C_ and _D_ in Fig. 77). A weight of some sort -should be fastened to the base, as shown at _E_. The uprights for the -other support should be similarly mounted upon another block of wood. -Fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run through the holes in the -uprights, and, as it is unnecessary to have a spool upon the other end -of the axle, cut it off short and drive a nail through it to prevent it -from slipping through the holes. Having thus prepared the supports, -place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway, and run a -cord around the two wheels and tie it. Then set the supports a little -farther apart, if necessary, to tighten the cord. Run another cord from -spool _D_ to - -=A Water-motor=, steam engine, or whatever power you can get with which -to operate the railway. A bicycle inverted with the tire removed from -its rear wheel has been used satisfactorily, as has also a -sewing-machine with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put -in its place. - -A good substitute for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in shops for toy -railways will be found in those shown in Fig. 78. These - -[Illustration: FIG. 78.--The Tracks.] - -=Tracks= consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon pieces of -cardboard. Make a small gimlet-hole in one end of each stick, and drive -a short finishing nail in the opposite end (see Fig. 78). Cut the -cardboard strips the length of the sticks, and tack them to the sticks -as shown in the illustration. If inch and one-half spools are used for -the car wheels, the inside gauge of the tracks should be an inch and -three-quarters. By lapping the cardboard strips over the ends of the -sticks, and the sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips, and -placing the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing, a -strong track is formed when the pieces are fitted together. This may be -extended to any desired length by adding more sections to it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 79.--A Top View of Car Truck.] - -=The Cars= for this railway will have their trucks constructed alike, -and it is a simple matter to transform a car from one style into -another. Figure 79 shows a top view of a truck. For the bed of this cut -a three-eighths-inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter -inches wide, and, after rounding the ends as shown in the drawing, cut a -mortise at _A_ and _B_ two and three-eighths inches from either end. - -[Illustration: FIG. 80.--Spool Wheels.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 81.--The Completed Car Truck.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 82.] - -Procure two one and one-half inch spools for wheels, and drive a wooden -peg through the hole in each, cutting off the ends so they project a -little beyond the hole, as shown in Fig. 80. Then bore four holes in the -edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet at _C_, _D_, _E_, and _F_ (see -drawing), and, after setting the spools in mortises _A_ and _B_, pivot -them in place with small finishing nails driven into the wooden pegs. -These nails should fit loosely in the gimlet holes. In order to drive -them into the exact centers of the spools, it is best to locate these -points upon the ends of the pegs before placing the spools in the frame. -A quarter-inch hole should be bored in the top of the truck-bed at _G_ -and _H_ (Fig. 79) in which to fasten the two uprights _I_ and _J_ (see -Fig. 81). Make the uprights four inches long and whittle a peg upon the -lower ends to fit holes _G_ and _H_ (see Fig. 82). Bore a hole with a -gimlet in the top of each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the -other, bending it as shown in Fig. 81. Fasten _K_ between _I_ and _J_, -as shown. Place a small brass ring upon the wire before you fasten it in -place. A small hook should be screwed into one end of the truck and a -screw-eye into the other end, for couplings, should you wish to hitch -two or more cars together. - -[Illustration: FIG. 83.--A Gondola Car.] - -=A Gondola Car=, such as shown in Fig. 83, should have its truck made -similar to Fig. 79, with the exception that it should be two inches -shorter, in order that cigar-box strips can be used for the side pieces. -Cut the strips an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the bed of -the car with brads. This car may be used as a trailer. - -The car shown in Fig. 81 is a rather crude affair, but with a little -more work may be transformed into a better looking car-- - -[Illustration: FIG. 84.--Side View.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 85.--End View.] - -=A Street Car= such as is shown in Figs. 84 and 85 being an example of -what can be made. The sides, ends, and roof of this car are made of -cardboard, the patterns for the cutting of which are shown on page 55. -Figure 86 shows a cross-section taken through the center of the car. The -two side pieces _A_ should be prepared first, as shown in Fig. 87. With -a ruler and lead-pencil draw in the windows about as shown in the -drawing, using double lines to indicate the sash. Then, with a sharp -knife, cut out the center of each just inside of the inner line. These -windows may be left open or may be covered on the inside with -tissue-paper. If tissue-paper is used, oil it to make it more -transparent. When the two sides have been prepared, bend each along the -dotted lines (see Fig. 87) and tack one to each side of your car truck -as shown in Fig. 86. When properly bent, the distance between the upper -part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches. Cut the two -inner ends of the car the shape of Fig. 88, using a compass with a -radius of two and one-half inches with which to describe the curve at -the top. Draw in the panels and sash lines as you did those upon the -side pieces, being careful to get them on the same level, and cut out -the door and window openings. Fasten these end pieces between the sides -with glue, and also tack them to the uprights of the car (_I_ and _J_, -Fig. 81), which will come just inside of them. The roof is made in two -sections (_B_ and _C_, Fig. 86). For _B_ cut a piece of cardboard twelve -and one-quarter by three and three-quarter inches (Fig. 89), draw the -curved end with a compass, using the radius shown on the drawing, and -slit the corners as indicated by the dotted lines. When this piece has -thus been prepared, remove the wire from the top of the truck (see Fig. -81). Bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car, and lap -corners _D_ and _E_ over _F_ and _G_, and _H_ and _I_ over _J_ and _K_, -tacking them with thread to hold them in place. To fasten this part of -the roof to the top of the car, cut a number of small strips of linen, -and glue them to the under side of the roof and to the inside face of -the sides and ends of the car (see Fig. 86). The upper portion of the -roof _C_ should be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into the shape -of Fig. 90, and cut at the ends so the upper portion of _C_ projects a -little beyond its sides. Draw the ventilation lights upon the sides of -_C_ as shown on the drawings, and then fasten the piece upon the top of -_B_ with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened _B_ in -place. _C_ should now have the same curve to its top as _B_. Cut and -glue a piece of cardboard in each end of _C_ to complete the roof. The -shape of this piece is shown in Fig. 91. The outer ends of the car -should be made as shown in - -[Illustration: FIGS. 86-94.--Details of Toy Street Car.] - -Fig. 92, and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform, and -also fastened to the under side of the roof with strips of linen. The -window openings may be cut in each end, but it will make a stronger -car if they are simply drawn upon it. Cut four cardboard steps similar -to Fig. 93 and tack them to the sides of the front and rear platforms. -When the car has been put together, replace the wire in the tops of -uprights _I_ and _J_ (Fig. 81), running the ends through the roof -(see Fig. 84). Paint the sides and ends of the car yellow with brown -trimmings, and paint the roof a light gray. Water colors can be used -for the purpose. Letter the name of your car-line upon the sides and -the number of the car upon each end and side. The route should be -lettered upon strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown -in Fig. 94, these strips to stick in the roof of the car (see -Figs. 84 and 85). - -Having seen how the car is made, you will find it a simple matter to -make designs for - -=Other Cars=, using the same scheme for the trucks, and altering the -patterns for the sides, ends, and roof, to suit the design. - -Nothing has, as yet, been said about the - -=Operation of the Railway=, and though Fig. 76 probably shows -sufficiently clear how it is run, a few words may be helpful. The car or -cars are placed between the wooden tracks, and the trolley (or cord -attached to the ring on top of the car) is tied to the trolley-line as -in the illustration. Upon starting your engine, water-motor, or -whatever motive-power you have, the car will run from one end of the -track to the other. When it has reached the support of the trolley-line, -it will stop long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the wooden -wheel, and then run in the opposite direction until the other support is -reached. It will thus be seen that the trolley hangs to the upper part -of the cable, or trolley-line, in running one way, and to the lower part -on the return run. In changing the direction of the run, the ring to -which the trolley is attached slides to the other end of the car. - -[Illustration: FIG. 95.--The Railway Depot.] - -=A Station= such as is illustrated in Fig. 95 is made out of cardboard -and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch board large enough to form a -railway platform. After cutting out the side and end pieces, with door -and window openings placed as shown in the illustration, fasten them -together with strips of linen glued in the corners. Make the roof low -and extend it over the platform upon each side and over the gable-ends, -as shown in the illustration. Paint the sides of the depot the -regulation depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color. Paint the -door and window-sash black, letter the name of the station upon the -gable-ends, and with a ruler and lead-pencil rule off the boards upon -the sides, and the slate or shingles upon the roof. As this is a typical -railway station, two may be made of the same pattern, one for either end -of your car line. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS - - -The elevator shown in Fig. 96 is a unique mechanical toy well worth -one's making. Release the little car at the top floor, and it will -descend to the ground floor, and then return to the starting point, -without you having to touch it a second time. A magical elevator? -Perhaps so. A little mechanical device performs the trick. - -The same plan may be followed for installing the doll-house elevator in -Chapter XIII, but the more stories there are the more fun there is in -operating the elevator. This is why I have adapted the scheme to - -=A Toy Office Building.= Six stories are shown in Fig. 96, but you can -make a modern sky-scraper with as many stories as you like. A -packing-case 3 feet 6 inches long, stood on end, was used for the model. -Another box or two can be added to the top for additional stories. -Besides the box, or boxes, get enough box boards for floors and -partitions. - -=Make the Floors= in two pieces (_A_ and _B_, Fig. 98), so the opening -for the elevator shaft can be cut out of the end of one piece in the -manner shown. This opening should be about 5 inches square. Mark out and -cut the boards for all of the floors at one time, and be careful to get -the shaft opening the same in each floor. Cut the notch _C_ in board _A_ -about 1 inch square. - -Fasten the floor boards in place with nails driven through the sides of -the box. - -=The Partitions=, a pattern for which is shown in Fig. 99, can be made -quicker by omitting the doorway, but this is easy to cut by sawing along -the sides and then splitting out the piece between the saw cuts. - -[Illustration: FIG. 96.--A Toy Office Building with Elevator.] - -=The Elevator Car= should be built up of cigar-box wood, as shown in -Figs. 101 and 102. The front portion (_D_) should be about 3 inches -wide, 2-1/2 inches deep, and 4 inches high, and the rear portion (_E_) -should be of the same width, 2 inches deep, and 2-1/2 inches high. -Fasten these upon the base piece _F_ as shown. - -=The Elevator Guides.= Bore the holes _G_ through the top and bottom of -the car, close to the sides, for guide wires _H_ to run through (Figs. -101 and 102). These holes may be bored with a screw-eye if you haven't a -gimlet or drill. Bell-wire, or almost any wire that you have on hand, -will do for the guides. Fasten two screw-eyes into the under side of the -top of the shaft, the same distance apart as holes _G_, and in the -proper position so they will come exactly over them (_I_, Fig. 100). Use -the car for determining these measurements. Then bore two holes through -the bottom of the shaft directly below the screw-eyes (_J_, Fig. 100). -Attach the wire to one screw-eye, run it down through holes _G_ in the -car, through one of the holes _J_, then across to and up through the -other hole _J_, up through the other set of holes _G_ in the car, and -attach to the second screw-eye _I_. - -=The Cables.= The elevator is lifted by means of cord _L_ (Figs. 97 and -101). Fasten this cord to a tack driven into the top of the car, then -run it up and over spool _M_ (Figs. 97 and 101), over spool _N_ (Fig. -97), and tie to weight _K_. - -=The Counter-balance.= A bottle, filled with sand to make it weigh more -than twice as much as the car, should be used for this. Screw a small -screw-eye into the cork to tie the cord to. - -The counter-balance runs up and down in - -=The Smoke-stack=, which is fastened to the back of the building (Fig. -97). Make the stack of cardboard mailing-tubes, joining them end to end -with bands of paper pasted around them. Fasten the stack to the back of -the building with wire straps, and brace the top as shown in Fig. 96, -but leave it unattached until you have adjusted - -=The Overhead Pulleys=, or _sheaves_. These are spools. You will see by -looking at Fig. 100 that spool _M_ turns on the axle _O_, and the ends -of this axle are cut to fit snugly in screw-eyes _I_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 97.--Section through Elevator Shaft.] - -Fasten pulley spool _N_ in the smoke-stack by means of a wooden axle -pushed through holes pierced in the side of the stack, as is shown in -the small drawing above, Fig. 97. Bore a hole through the back of the -building for the cable cord _L_ to run through (_P_, Figs. 97 and 100), -and cut another through the smoke-stack. - -=How the Car Operates.= When the weight and cord have been adjusted and -the smoke-stack erected, the elevator will run from the ground floor up -to the roof of its own accord, because the counter-balance is much -heavier than the car. To make it descend it is necessary to add weight -to the car, to make it enough heavier than the counter-balance so it -will drop of its own accord. This is done with - -=Ballast= consisting of a bottle of sand or salt of twice the combined -weight of counter-balance _K_ and the car. After filling the bottle, -cork it up, and screw a screw-eye into the cork. Then screw the eye of a -2-inch hook-and-eye into the roof of the building, directly over the -center of box _E_ of the elevator (_R_, Figs. 97 and 101), and attach -one end of a rubber-band to the hook and tack the other end to the top -of the elevator-shaft (Fig. 101). - -[Illustration: FIG. 98.--Floors.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 99.--Partitions.] - -With the hook and rubber-band properly adjusted, this is what happens -when the car ascends to the top of the shaft. The bottom of the rear -portion of the car strikes bottle _Q_, lifts it enough to release the -end of the hook (_R_), and the rubber-band springs the hook out of the -way (Fig. 97). The bottle remains upon the rear portion of the car, and -its weight carries the car to the bottom of the shaft. - -=To Make the Car Rise= to the top of the shaft again, remove bottle -_Q_. Replace the bottle upon the end of hook _R_, and it will be in -position for the next trip downwards. - -[Illustration: FIG. 100.--Front View of Elevator Shaft.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 101 and 102.--Elevator Car Details.] - -Cut the holes _Y_ and _Z_ (Fig. 100) through the outside wall of the -shaft for hand holes through which to reach bottle _Q_ and hook _R_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 103.--Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers.] - -Figures 97, 100, and 103 show - -=A Simple Control= for stopping the car at the different floor levels. -Stick _S_ may be a piece of broom-handle, curtain-pole, or flagstaff. -Bore a hole through the bottom of the shaft, directly below holes _C_ in -the floors (_T_, Fig. 100), and slip the stick through hole _T_ and into -slots _C_. Then locate on one side of stick _S_ points just below the -under face of each floor, and upon the opposite side locate points just -above where the back edge of the elevator will come when the car is -raised to each floor level (Fig. 97). Remove the stick, and drill or -bore a small hole at each point marked; then replace it, nail a small -block (_U_, Fig. 100) across the top end to hold it in place, and drive -a nail, with its head filed off, into each of the holes. - -When stick _S_ is turned to the position shown in Fig. 97, while the car -is going down, the first nail below the car will project beneath it and -bring it to a stop; and if the stick is turned in the opposite direction -while the elevator is going up, the first nail above the car will -project over the back edge of portion _E_ and bring the car to a stop. - -=Two Levers= operate the brakes (_W_, Figs. 97 and 100). Cut these of -the shape shown in Fig. 103, and screw one to each side wall. Then tack -a piece of cord to stick _S_, wrap the ends of the cord once around, -slip them through screw-eyes _V_ screwed into the side walls, and tie to -tacks driven into levers _W_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 104.--An Outdoor Elevator.] - -One series of brakes can now be set by pulling forward one lever, and -the other series by pulling forward the other lever. By driving a nail -into stick _S_ at _X_ (Fig. 100), and a nail into the bottom of the -shaft, each side of stick _S_, the levers will turn the stick just far -enough in either direction to bring the brakes into operation. - -If there is a kitchen porch to your house, construct - -=The Outdoor Elevator= shown in Fig. 104 to run from the ground up to -that porch. If you live in an upper story of an apartment building, your -elevator can be made to run to a greater height, which, of course, will -make more fun. - -It will save considerable work to use the porch, because for one thing -you will not have to build an upper platform to stand upon to reach the -elevator car when it runs to the top, and for another thing the supports -for the guides and cable can be fastened directly to one of the porch -posts. - -[Illustration: FIG. 105.--Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables.] - -Figure 105 shows a large detail of - -=The Guide Supports.= Cross strips _A_, _B_, and _C_ should be 18 or 20 -inches long, about 2 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. At a distance of -about 1 inch from one end of strips _A_ and _B_ screw a screw-eye into -one edge, and 8 inches from those eyes screw a second screw-eye (_D_, -Fig. 105). Screw-eyes with 1/2 inch eyes are large enough. A dozen will -cost about 5 cents at the hardward store. The elevator guides are -fastened to these. - -Besides the screw-eyes there must be two clothes-line pulleys for the -cable to run over. These cost 5 cents apiece. Screw one pulley into the -edge of strip _B_, halfway between the two screw-eyes _D_ (_E_, Fig. -105), the other into an edge of strip _C_ at the same distance from the -end that you have placed the pulley in strip _B_ (_F_, Fig. 105). - -Nail strip _A_ to the porch post as close to the ground as you can get -it, strip _B_ to the same face of the same post, about 18 inches above -the porch railing, and strip _C_ to the opposite face of the post at the -same height as strip _B_. Nail these strips securely in place. - -If you cannot find a starch-box or other small box out of which to make - -=The Car=, go to a grocery store. You will be sure to find just what you -want there. It is not likely that the grocer will charge you anything -for a small box like this. If you have placed screw-eyes _D_ 8 inches -apart, as directed, the width of the box should be a trifle less than -this measurement, but if the box you pick up is wider the screw-eyes can -be spaced as much farther apart as is necessary to accommodate it. - -Figure 106 shows how the box is converted into the car. Screw two -screw-eyes into each side of the box, one above the other, as shown at -_G_, for the elevator guides to run through, screw another into the -exact center of the top (_H_) to tie the hoisting cable to, and screw -another into the exact center of the bottom to tie the lowering cable -to. Nail a narrow strip across the open front of the car, at the bottom, -to keep things from falling out. - -[Illustration: FIG. 106.--Elevator Car.] - -Get heavy wrapping-twine or stovepipe wire for - -=The Guides.= Attach these guides to screw-eyes _D_ in strip _B_, first, -drop them through screw-eyes _G_ in the sides of the car, and then -fasten to screw-eyes _D_ in strip _A_. - -=The Counter-balance= is a large can filled with earth, sand, or small -stones. Its weight must be equal to about three times that of the empty -car. Fasten the lifting cable through holes punched in opposite sides of -the can (Fig. 107). - -[Illustration: FIG. 107.--Counter-balance.] - -Use a strong wrapping-twine for - -=The Lifting Cable.= After tying this to the counter-balance, run it -over pulley _F_, then over pulley _E_, and tie to screw-eye _H_ in the -top of the car. The cable must be of the right length so when the -counter-balance has dropped to the ground the car will come just above -the porch railing, as shown in Fig. 104. Tie - -=The Lowering Cable= to the screw-eye screwed into the under side of the -car. - -As long as the weight of the car and its load remains less than half of -that of the counter-balance, the counter-balance will drop and by so -doing lift the car. The cable attached to the bottom must be pulled to -lower the car. - -Those of you boys who own a tree-hut, or intend to build one,[1] should -erect an elevator similar to the one just described, for hoisting -supplies to the hut. - -[Footnote 1: Plans for building Tree-huts, and a Dumb-Waiter for -supplies, are given in Chapter XXV of "The Handy Boy."] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS - - -Those of you boys who have examined the little mechanical toys sold upon -the street corners just before Christmas probably have been surprised to -find how simply they are made, and perhaps it has never occurred to you -that you might make toys equally as good for presents for your younger -brothers, sisters, or cousins. Most of the smaller mechanical toys are -not only easy to make, but they require materials which cost little and -can usually be picked up at home. Sometimes it takes considerable -thinking and planning to discover just the things which can be adapted -to the various parts of toys; but that is where part of the fun of toy -making comes in. - -=A Buzz-saw Whirligig= is an interesting toy (Fig. 108). Lay out a disk -about 5 inches in diameter upon a piece of cardboard, locate the -position for the spool-end on the center of each face, and make four -rings outside of this. Divide the circumference of the disk into sixteen -equal parts, and lay off the teeth as shown. (Fig. 111.) The spool-ends -used for centers should have two holes drilled through them for the -twisting cord to slip through, and should be fastened to the disk with -glue or brads. - -A cotton string is best for - -=Operating the Whirligig.= After slipping it through the holes in the -spool-ends, tie the ends together. To work the toy, slip the first -finger of each hand through the loop of each end, and whirl the disk in -one direction until the string is twisted from both ends as far as the -center. Then pull firmly on the ends of the string, and the disk will -whirl in the opposite direction until the string is untwisted and -twisted up again in the opposite direction. As the strings twist, -slacken your hold upon the ends, and when it has wound up tight pull -again to make it whirl in the opposite direction. The disk should whirl -very steadily when working right, and the knack of making the string -twist so the disk will do so is attained with a little practice. - -[Illustration: FIG. 111.--Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in Fig. -108.] - -=The Clog-dancer= (Fig. 109) is an easily made loose-jointed doll. His -dancing-stage is a shingle or piece of stiff cardboard held on the edge -of a chair beneath your knee. He is held by means of the string attached -to his head, so that his feet rest lightly upon the stage, and he -is made to jig by tapping the outer end of the stage with the free hand. -With a little practice the figure can be made to go through the steps of -the most eccentric clog-dancer. - - -[Illustration: FIG. 108.--THE BUZZ-SAW WHIZZES WHEN YOU TWIST THE CORD.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 109.--THE ECCENTRIC CLOG-DANCER IS A CIRCUS IN -HIMSELF.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 110.--PULL THE STRING AND JACK JUMPS COMICALLY.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 112.--Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in -Fig. 109.] - -The more grotesque the dancer's appearance is, the more amusing his -dancing will be, so the cruder you make him the better. Figure 112 shows -the working details for his construction. The center part of a -thread-spool forms the _head_, and a spool-end and the rounded end of a -broom-handle form the _hat_. These three pieces are nailed together. The -_body_ is a piece of a broom-handle, and a spool-end nailed to it forms -the _shoulders_. Drive a nail into the end of the body, tie a string to -this, and run the string up through the hole in the head, and out -through a hole in the hat; tie the string to a fancy-work ring. - -The _arms_ and _legs_ are made of sticks whittled to the lengths marked -in Fig. 112, and about 1/4 inch in diameter, and are jointed by driving -tacks into their ends and connecting these with heavy linen thread. -Figure 112 shows how the feet and hands are cut, and how tacks are -driven into them for the thread connections. Paint the clog-dancer's -body, arms, and legs white, his head, hands, and feet black, and mark -his eyes, nose, and mouth upon his face in white. - -[Illustration: FIG. 113.--Details of Body of the Jumping-jack shown in -Fig. 110.] - -=A Toy Jumping-jack= is always amusing, and Fig. 110 shows a simply -constructed home-made model. You will see by Fig. 113 how the figure is -made. The peaked _hat_ is half a spool tapered down from the end to the -center; and the _head_ is the center from a darning-cotton spool, shaped -down at one end for a _neck_, and with eyes, nose, and mouth cut in on -one side. Figure 113 shows the diagrams for the front and back of the -_body_, the _arms_, and the _legs_. These are cut out of cigar-box wood. -Cut the neck stick A long enough to run through the head and hat, with a -square block on the end to fit between the body pieces. The blocks _B_ -should be of the same thickness as block _A_. Bore the pivotal holes -through the arms and legs in the positions shown, using a small gimlet -or red-hot nail with which to do the boring, and tie a piece of heavy -linen thread through each as shown. The arms and legs are pivoted on -brads driven through the front of the body into the back. - -When the body has been fastened together, bring the ends of the threads -together, and tie to a small ring; also knot the threads close to the -body to keep them together. In painting Jack, you might provide him with -a red coat, blue trousers and a blue hat, white stockings, and black -shoes. - -=A Cricket-rattle= is about the liveliest form of rattle ever devised -(Fig. 114). After constructing one for your sister or brother, you -probably will decide to make one for yourself. For this rattle, first -prepare a _notched spool_ (_A_, Fig. 116). The notches in this need not -be cut as perfectly as shown, but the notches in one end of the spool -must be exactly opposite those in the other end. Whittle the _handle B_ -to the shape and size shown, cut the strips _C_ out of cigar-box wood, -and prepare the block _D_ as shown. The groove in the edge of _D_ is cut -of just the right width to receive the end of the wooden strip _E_. The -length of _E_ is best determined after nailing the ends of strips _C_ to -_D_, and slipping the handle through the holes in strips _C_ and spool -_A_. It should extend from the groove in _D_ into the notches in _A_. -Make it as wide as the spool is high. Paint the rattle red or blue. - -[Illustration: FIG. 116.--Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown Fig. -114.] - -=The Turtle Toy= which crawls along the floor when you alternately pull -and slacken a thread that runs through its shell, has always been one of -the most popular of mechanical toys, and you will be surprised to find -how easily our home-made model shown in Fig. 115 is put together. The -_shell_ is a small tin mold such as is used for molding jellies. One -about 4 inches long costs 10 cents. A mold having the form of a bunch -of grapes is a pretty good form for the turtle shell, as you will see -by the illustrations. - -[Illustration: FIG. 114.--WHIRLING THE CRICKET-RATTLE MAKES IT CHIRP.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 115.--THE CRAWLING TURTLE'S SHELL IS A JELLY -MOULD.] - -The _head_, the _tail_, and the four _feet_ are cut out of tin from a -can, and bent into the forms shown in Fig. 117. Then slits are cut -through the narrow rim of the mold by piercing the tin with the point of -a nail at the proper places for attaching them, as shown in the small -detail drawing, and the tab ends are pushed through the slits, bent -over, and clinched with a pair of pincers. - -[Illustration: FIG. 117.--How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a -Jelly Mould to Make the Turtle shown in Fig. 115.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 118.--The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which -Propel them.] - -A thread spool 1-1/4 inches long forms the _wheels_ on which the turtle -runs, and two rubber-bands 1-1/2 inches long propel it. Cut a piece of a -lead pencil a trifle longer then the spool, split it into halves, remove -the lead, and insert the rubber bands in the groove; then slip the piece -of pencil into the hole in the spool (Fig. 118). The rubber-band ends -must project an equal distance beyond the spool-ends. Before fastening -the spool to the tin mold shell, tie the end of a piece of heavy linen -thread to its center, and then wind about twenty turns about it. Pierce -a hole through each side of the mold a trifle in front of the center, -and after slipping pieces of string through the ends of the rubber-bands -(Fig. 118), tie them through the holes pierced through the sides of the -mold. Pierce a hole through the shell, directly over the center of the -spool, slip the free end of the thread wound on the spool through this -hole, and tie it to a fancy-work ring (Fig. 117). - -=To Make the Turtle Crawl=, place it upon the floor, pull on the ring, -and as the thread unwinds from the spool the rubber-bands will twist; -then slacken the thread, and the turtle will crawl along the floor. As -the rubber-bands untwist, the thread will wind up on the spool again. -Continue pulling and slackening the thread alternately, and the turtle -will continue to crawl. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -HOME-MADE TOPS - - -There are many styles of tops, probably more than you ever dreamed of, -and it will surprise you to hear that the owners of some of the most -curious forms are bearded men who take as much delight as any girl or -boy in spinning them. A few years ago on Murray Island, which is way -down among the South Sea Islands, top spinning took such a strong hold -upon the attention of the natives that they neglected their work, and -families often were without food, boys and girls having to go to school -hungry. Matters became so serious, in fact, as a result of this fad for -top spinning, that, finally, the head chieftain was compelled to -restrict it to certain days. There are many experts among these South -Sea Islanders. The men sing songs while their tops spin, cheer them on, -and take the greatest precautions to shelter them from wind. An eye -witness of a contest reported that the winning top spun 27 minutes, -which you must admit is a pretty long time. - -Whip-tops and peg-tops of several varieties can be purchased at the -corner candy store, but the kinds I am going to show you how to make -cannot be bought anywhere. - -=Clock Wheel Tops.= A splendid spinner can be made of the little -balance-wheel of a broken clock (Fig. 119). This little wheel is so -accurately made that it will spin very steadily from a minute and -one-half to two minutes. As the ends of this wheel's axle are pointed, -the top will stand in one spot as long as it spins. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 119 and 120.--Clock Wheel Tops.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 121.--Upholstering Tack Top.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 122.--How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 123 and 124.--Details of Spool Top.] - -The toothed wheel shown in Fig. 120, or any of the other forms of wheels -from a clockwork will make good spinners, yet, unless you file their -pivot ends to points, they will not spin in one spot but will glide and -hop over the table in spirals. The friction thus produced decreases the -length of time that they will spin, but makes them none the less -interesting as tops. Great fun may be had spinning these wheel tops -around the balance-wheel top, while the latter is spinning. Figure 129 -shows how to hold a clock wheel between the thumb and first finger, for -spinning. Start it with a snapping movement of the fingers. - -=A Rug-tack Top.= A rug tack or large upholstering tack is another good -spinner. While the clockwork wheels are spun by twirling them by means -of the upper end of the pivots, the tack top is spun by holding the -spinning point between the thumb and first finger, as shown in Fig. 122, -then giving it a quick twirl and dropping it upon a table. The tack top -is an eccentric spinner. First it hops about in a very lively fashion; -then, when you think it is about ready to topple over, it regains its -balance and for some seconds spins quite as steadily as the clockwork -balance-wheel top. The tack top can be spun upon its head as well as -upon its point. - -[Illustration: FIG. 125.--A Shoe-polish Can Top.] - -=A Spool Top.= The top in Fig. 123 is made from a half of a spool and a -short piece of lead-pencil. Saw a spool into halves, and then taper one -half from its beveled end to the center. Sharpen the piece of pencil to -a point, and push it through the spool until its point projects just a -trifle. Spin the spool top in the same way as the clock wheel tops. - -=A Spinning Top Race-track.= By drawing a track upon a piece of -cardboard, as shown in Fig. 129, with an opening on the inside, great -fun may be had by starting any one of the small tops just described, -with the exception of the balance-wheel top, in the center of the space -inside of the track, and tilting the cardboard so as to cause the top to -spin through the opening on to the track, and around the track. There is -a trick in keeping the top from running off the track that can be -acquired only with practice. - -=A Shoe-polish Can Top= (Fig. 125). This is a sure-enough good looking -top, and it spins as well as it looks. It is made of a pencil, a -cone-shaped piece cut from a spool, similar to the top shown in Fig. -123, and an empty shoe-polish can. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 126-128.--Details of Shoe-polish Can Top.] - -The dotted line in Fig. 126 indicates how the end of the pencil sticks -through a hole in the shoe-polish can, then through the cone-shaped -piece of spool. The hole through the can must be located in the exact -center, so the top will balance properly. To find the center, place the -box bottom down upon a piece of paper, and with a pencil draw a line -around it. Cut the paper along the center, and you will have a piece the -shape and size of the can bottom. Fold the piece in half, then in half -again the other way (Fig. 127), open it up, and the intersection of the -two folds, indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 128, will be the exact -center. With the center located, place the piece of paper first upon the -bottom, then upon the top of the can, and punch a hole through the -center of it and the can, with the point of a large nail. Increase the -size of the hole enough to admit the pencil. - -[Illustration: FIG. 129.--A Spinning Top Race-track.] - -Spin this top in the manner shown in Fig. 125. Hold the upper part of -the pencil between your hands, with the palms together, and slide your -hands back and forth, first slowly, then rapidly. Release it so as to -cause it to drop squarely upon its point upon a level wooden surface. -The steadiness of this top's spinning will depend entirely upon the -accuracy with which you cut the center hole for the pencil. - -=A Spiral Top.= The top in Fig. 130 presents a curious appearance while -spinning, the spiral design upon it seeming to change its form as the -top revolves. - -[Illustration: FIG. 130.--A Spiral Top.] - -The only difference between the construction of this top and the -shoe-polish can top is in the substitution of the spiral disk for the -polish can. A pencil and cone-shaped piece of spool are required as in -the case of the other top. - -[Illustration: FIG. 131.--Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top.] - -The spiral design for the disk, shown in Fig. 131, is large enough so -you can make a tracing of it on a piece of transparent paper, and then -trace it off upon a piece of cardboard. Fill in alternate rings with -black ink or water-color, in the way shown, then cut out the disk, -pierce a hole through its exact center to fit over the pencil end, and -glue the under side to the top of the cone-shaped piece of spool. Spin -this top in the same way as the shoe-polish can top is spun (Fig. 125). - -=A Merry-go-round Top= (Fig. 132) is a new idea easily carried out. You -will require a cardboard disk 12 inches in diameter, three spools, a -pencil, and some light-weight cardboard. - -[Illustration: FIG. 132.--A Merry-go-round Top.] - -Figure 133 shows the details for this top. If you haven't a compass, use -a large-sized dinner plate with which to draw the circumference of the -disk (_A_). Then cut a conical-shaped piece of spool (_B_), stick the -lead-pencil through it for a spinning point (_C_), punch a hole through -the disk to fit over the pencil, and tack the disk to _B_. Cut off a -third of the length of a ribbon spool for _E_, and fasten another spool -(_D_) to the top of the pencil. Spool _D_ should be glued fast to the -pencil, and the spool-end _E_ should turn loosely upon it. Coat the -lower part of the pencil with glue so it will stick fast in _B_. - -[Illustration: FIG. 133.--Detail of Merry-go-round Top.] - -=How the Top Spins.= When you have made this much of the top, spin it to -see how it works. Wrap the spinning cord--a strong light-weight -wrapping-twine--about spool _D_, in the same manner that you wind the -cord on any top; then, holding spool end _E_ with the left hand (Fig. -132), pull steadily upon the cord with the right hand until all is -unwound, and gently drop the top upon its spinning point. To get the -best results, the cardboard used for the disk platform must be very -straight. If it warps, flatten it by pressing it under a pile of books. - -[Illustration: FIG. 134.--How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform.] - -=Horses and Riders= for the merry-go-round may be prepared like those -of the clockwork merry-go-round in Chapter X (Figs. 143, 146, and 147). -Figure 134 shows how two burnt matches or toothpicks are lashed to the -legs of the horses for supports, and Fig. 133 shows how holes are -pierced through the disk platform to stick them in. - -=A Flag= mounted upon spool _D_ will make the merry-go-round top -complete. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS - - -The toys shown opposite page 90 are a few of the many mechanical toys -which can be operated by clockwork, and they are easy to make, too, -requiring no more mechanical ability than is possessed by the average -boy old enough to handle the simplest of tools. - -Generally it is easy to find an old clock somewhere about the house, and -a clock which has been discarded simply because it has become worthless -as a timekeeper is perfectly good for operating these toys, provided the -_mainspring_ is in working order. It is not necessary to have a set of -works for each toy, for they are so quickly fastened in place that but a -minute is required to transfer the works from one toy to another. - -Before commencing work upon the toys, get together - -=The Other Necessary Materials.= These will consist of cigar boxes, -cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads, and a few pieces from the -woodpile, with one or two additional articles which are mentioned later -on. Brads 5/8 inch and 1 inch in length should be purchased for -fastening the framework of the toys together, and the cigar boxes should -be about 8 inches by 4 inches by 2 inches in size. Remove the paper -from the boxes as described on page 175. - -=To Prepare the Clockwork= for use, remove it from its case, detach the -hands and face, and pry off the small wheel pivoted directly under the -hands; this wheel is shown at _A_ in Fig. 139. Remove also the -_balance-wheel B_ (Fig. 139) and the _lever C_ pivoted next to it, to -increase the speed of the remaining wheels. - -[Illustration: FIG. 139.--How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the -Cigar-box Cover. - -(This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.)] - -Fasten the clockwork motor for - -=The Merry-go-round= shown in Fig. 135 to the cover of a cigar box, as -illustrated in Figs. 136 and 139, boring holes through the cover with a -gimlet for the _pivot_ ends on the back of the works to set into. Remove -the lower flange from a spool (_D_, Fig. 139) and fasten the spool on to -the central pivot of the clockwork in the position formerly occupied by -wheel _A_. The hole in the spool will be too large for the pivot and -must be filled up with sealing-wax. To do this, hold a piece of -sealing-wax above the spool and melt it with a lighted match, allowing -it to drip into the hole until the latter is about half full, then press -the wax down with the end of a match until it is compact, smooth it off -on the bottom of the spool, and make a dent in it with a pencil to -indicate the exact center of the hole. Heat the end of the pivot with a -lighted match, and press it into the dent in the wax, being careful in -doing so to get the spool straight upon the pivot. Cut a hole through -the bottom of the cigar box belonging to the cover to which you have -attached the works, for spool _D_ to project through (Fig. 139). - -=To Make the Standard= for the merry-go-round, cut four strips of wood 8 -inches long, and fasten one to each corner of the cigar box, turning the -bottom side of the box up; then cut a piece of 1/2-inch board 10 inches -square, locate its center _F_ by drawing diagonal lines from corner to -corner as shown in Fig. 140, bore a 1-inch hole through it at this point -for spool _D_ (Fig. 136), and then nail the box to the center of the -board as shown in Fig. 140. - -[Illustration: FIG. 135. A MERRY-GO-ROUND.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 136. A CLOCKWORK MOTOR.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 137. A FERRIS WHEEL.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 138. THE "FLYING AIRSHIPS."] - -[Illustration: FIG. 140.--Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 141.--Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 142.--The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a -Tent-pole.] - -=The Tent= should be laid out upon heavy white paper as shown in Fig. -141. After describing a circle with a radius of 9 inches, describe -another circle within it with a radius of 7-1/2 inches, this inner -circle (shown by dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide -in fastening the tent upon its tent-poles. Cut out the tent along -the outer circle, and from it cut a triangular piece about the size -of that included between lines _KL_ and _ML_ in the diagram. Cover -the under edge of _KL_ and the upper edge of _ML_ with glue, lap _KL_ -over to about _NL_, and rub down the edges with a cloth to make as -neat a joint between the pieces as possible (Fig. 142). Bore -a hole through each corner of the standard top (_G_, _H_, _I_, and _J_, -Fig. 140), then cut four sticks 7 inches long, sandpaper them until -smooth, and glue them into these holes for - -=The Tent-poles.= When the tent has dried, tack it to the ends of the -poles, being careful to make it set evenly upon them; cut a scalloped -border out of red or blue paper and paste it to the edge all around as -shown in Fig. 135, and stick a small flag in the peak. - -[Illustration: FIG. 143.--Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the -Merry-go-round.] - -=The Horses.= A full-size pattern for these is shown in Fig. 143. Take a -piece of _tracing-paper_ or any thin transparent paper, and place it -over the pattern and make an exact copy; then rub a soft lead-pencil -over the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the blackened -side down, and transfer the drawing six times upon a piece of -light-weight cardboard. Paint the horses with water-colors, using the -pattern as a guide for shading and marking them, then cut them out with -a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. - -Figure 144 shows the pattern for - -=The Sleighs.= Draw this out upon a piece of cardboard, cut it out and -fold along the dotted lines, then turn in the flaps and glue them to the -dashboard and to the back. Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down -the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh, and make the back -for the front seat like that on the back seat (Fig. 145). Then make -another sleigh similar to the one just completed, for two are required -for the merry-go-round. Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trimmings -of a lighter shade. - -[Illustration: FIG. 144.--Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs.] - -Figure 136 shows - -=The Shafts= upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted. Cut them -5-1/2 inches long, whittle them round, and rub them down with -sandpaper. The shafts are fastened in a spool hub which has five holes -bored in it (_E_, Fig. 136); bore the holes with a gimlet or small -drill, marking them off first with a pencil to be sure of getting them -spaced at equal distances. Point the ends of the shafts and glue them -into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool _D_ with a -piece of a lead-pencil 2 inches long (Fig. 136). - -[Illustration: FIG. 145.--A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to -Shaft.] - -To fasten the horses to the shafts, punch a hole through three of them -at _X_ (Fig. 143) and slip each one over a shaft, then tack the other -three horses to the ends of these shafts at the point _X_. To fasten the -sleighs to the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to the -back of the front seat and the other end around the shaft (Fig. 145). - -=The Girl Riders= for the sleighs are shown full size in Fig. 146, and - -=The Boy Riders= for the horses are shown full size in Fig. 147. Make -tracings from the patterns as you made that of the horse and prepare -four girls and six boys. Paint their clothes in bright colors. Cut a -second leg for each boy rider, so he can be made to sit astride of his -horse, and glue the leg to his hip as shown in Fig. 148. Cut a slit in -each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on the girl riders in them. - -[Illustration: FIG. 146.--Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 147.--Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 148.--How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached.] - -=For the Platform= shown directly under the horses and sleighs in Fig. -135, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in diameter; if you choose to -make the Ferris wheel before the merry-go-round, you may use the center -pieces removed in cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 153. Punch a -hole through the center of this disk large enough for the peg connecting -spools _D_ and _E_ to slip through. This platform rests upon the top of -spool _D_ and revolves with it. - -=To Operate the Merry-go-round.= The key by which the mainspring is -wound up is shown screwed in place on the under side of the cigar-box -cover in Fig. 139. While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary to -have some means of checking it so it will not unwind at the same time, -and the best scheme for a check is to bore a small gimlet hole through -the cover of the cigar box and stick a match through this and run it -between the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent it from -turning. Then when you have wound up the spring and are ready to start -the merry-go-round, all you have to do is to pull out the match. - -The model of this toy which the author has before him runs for five -minutes with one winding, and any boy can make one which will run as -well if he follows the directions given and uses a reasonable amount of -carefulness in the work. - -=Other Animals= than horses may be used if you wish to follow the -arrangement of some of the latest merry-go-rounds, and pictures of these -may be found among the colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, -or if you can draw well, you may copy them from books and magazines. -Great fun may be had by changing the positions of the boy riders, making -them ride backward part of the time and sometimes two and three boys on -a horse. - -Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel, and a good many of -you have ridden in the smaller wheels patterned after it, at the -amusement parks, so you will be interested in making - -=A Miniature Ferris Wheel= like the one shown in Fig. 137. - -=The Standard= for supporting the wheel (Fig. 149) consists of two -triangular supports, one with a spool hub fastened to its top for the -axle of the wheel to run through and the other with the cigar box -inclosing the clockwork fastened to it. Figures 150, 151, and 152 show -the construction of these supports. Cut strips _P_ and _Q_ 12 inches -long and _R_ 10 inches long, and trim off the upper ends of _P_ and _Q_ -so when they are nailed together the lower ends will be 8 inches apart; -nail strip _R_ to the lower ends of _P_ and _Q_ (Fig. 150). To fasten -the spool hub to its support, smear one side of a piece of tape with -glue and wind it several times around the spool (Fig. 151), then set the -spool on top of the support and press the ends of the tape against the -sides of strips _P_ and _Q_ (Fig. 152). - -[Illustration: FIG. 149.--Standard for the Ferris Wheel.] - -=The Clockwork Motor= for the Ferris wheel is fastened to the cover of a -cigar box just as that for the merry-go-round was fastened (Fig. 139), -but the length of the box is cut down as much as the clockwork will -allow to make the box as square and compact as possible. - -It is very necessary to have the axle bearings exactly on a line in -order to have the wheel run smoothly, so, in fastening the cigar box to -its support, be sure that the center of the hole in spool _D_ (Fig. -139) is on a level with the spool hub on the opposite support. Nail the -supports to a 10-inch by 12-inch board, 8 inches apart, and fasten a -cigar box between them for - -=The Station Platform= (Fig. 149). - -[Illustration: FIG. 150.--Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris -Wheel Standard.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 151 and 152.--How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of -the Support for a Hub.] - -=To Make the Wheel=, first lay out the rims upon a piece of heavy -cardboard, using the radii shown in Fig. 153 for describing the circles, -then lay the sheet of cardboard upon a board and - -=Cut out the Rims= with a sharp knife, being careful not to run off of -the pencil line. The - -=Hubs= of the wheel are spools with six holes bored in them for the -spokes to fit in (Fig. 156). Cut six - -=Spokes= 5-3/4 inches long by 1/8 inch thick for each hub, and cut a -slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims to fit in (Figs. 154 and -157). Use a saw rather than a knife in making the slots, for it will -make a kerf of just the right width to receive the cardboard and will -not be so apt to split the ends of the slender spokes. Whittle the hub -ends of the spokes to fit the holes in the spool hubs (Figs. 154 and -157). In - -[Illustration: FIG. 153.--How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the -Ferris Wheel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 154.--The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 155.--The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes.] - -=Putting together the Spokes, Hubs, and Rims= of the wheel, first stick -three spokes in a hub and slip a rim into the slots in their ends, then -stick the remaining spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the -rim enough so it can be slipped into their slots (Fig. 155). - -[Illustration: FIG. 156.--A Spool Hub for the Wheel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 157.--How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened -Together.] - -When the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled, lay them aside and -get some heavy wrapping-paper or thin cardboard out of which - -=To Make the Cars.= The pattern for the cars is shown in Fig. 158, and -on it you will find all the dimensions necessary for laying it out to -the proper size. It will be understood that the unfigured portions of -the drawing are the same as those with dimensions marked upon them. The -dotted lines at the door and window openings indicate where the cutting -is to be done, while all other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard -is to be _scored_ and folded. - -[Illustration: FIG. 158.--Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars.] - -Use a ruler in making the drawing of the car to get the lines straight, -and when you have finished it go over it carefully and compare it with -the illustration to be sure it is correct, after which make a careful -tracing of it, turn it over and transfer the drawing five times upon -cardboard. These and your original drawing will give you the required -number of cars. Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do the -rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors; punch a 1/4-inch hole in -each end of each car with a lead-pencil (Fig. 158), being careful to get -the holes exactly opposite. In folding and gluing the cars, slip the -flaps inside and bend the roofs so they will follow the curve of the -ends (Fig. 159). - -[Illustration: FIG. 159.--A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel.] - -When the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 inches long, whittle -them down until they are about 3/16 inch in diameter, and sandpaper them -until they are perfectly round and smooth. These sticks connect the rims -of the wheel and form - -=The Axles= from which the cars are hung (Fig. 159). Great care must be -used in fastening them between the rims, for they are easily split, and -the best way to do is to start a hole first in the ends of each axle -with an awl or by driving a brad part way in and then withdrawing it; -then drive a brad through each spoke of one rim into an axle (Fig. 157); -slip the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the -cars (Fig. 159), and nail the spokes of the other rim to them. - -=To Mount the Wheel= upon its standard, whittle an axle 8-1/2 inches -long to fit the hubs, then hold the wheel between the two uprights, with -the hubs on a line with the spool bearings and run the axle through the -holes (Fig. 137). - -=Build Steps= at each end of the platform out of heavy writing-paper or -light cardboard. Fold the paper or cardboard back and forth, making -pleats about 1/4 inch wide for the steps, and after gluing it in place -cut out the _balustrades_ and glue them to the edges of the steps. Make -the top step low enough so there will be about 1/4-inch clearance -between it and the bottom of the cars (Fig. 137). - -After you have made a final inspection to see that everything has been -put together properly, your toy will be ready for operation, and I am -sure that when you set the clockwork machinery in motion, and the little -wheel begins to revolve slowly with each little car balancing upon its -axle, you will agree that you have constructed a very interesting toy. - -=The "Flying Airships"= is a riding device consisting of a number of -cars suspended by steel cables from large arms pivoted to the top of a -tower. When the machinery is started, the arms begin to revolve slowly, -and the motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the -center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars swing out farther -and farther, until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by -which the cars are suspended have taken an oblique position and raised -the cars some distance above the ground; then the speed of the engine -is gradually diminished, and the cars finally regain their former -position. This piece of apparatus is also known as an _aerostat_. - -You will find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 138) easy to construct -after making a merry-go-round or Ferris wheel, as many of its details -are identical with those of the other toys. - -=The Standard= for the toy is made similar to the one for the -merry-go-round (Fig. 135), except that the top board is omitted and a -circular piece of cardboard of the size of the disks removed in cutting -out the rims of the Ferris wheel is substituted in its place. Cut a hole -through the exact center of the piece large enough so it will fit over -spool _D_ (Fig. 136). - -=Cut a Mast= about 14 inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the -spool and stick it into spool _D_; then 3 inches below the top of the -mast fasten a spool with four horizontal arms 6 inches long glued into -holes bored in it. Fasten a crosspiece 4-1/2 inches long to the end of -each arm with brads, and from these suspend - -=Cars= made similar to those of the Ferris wheel, with cords. Set a -small flag in a hole bored in the top of the mast and then run cords -from the top of the mast out to the ends of the arm pieces. - -With this toy the cars cannot be swung out obliquely as on the large -flying airships except by - -=Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork.= This can be accomplished by -removing one or two of the wheels of the clockwork, but it is not -advisable to take out more than one wheel in addition to those removed -for the merry-go-round (Fig. 139) because the mainspring would require -rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable. - -=An Electric Motor= can be belted to these toys as a substitute for the -clockwork, if you own one and prefer to try it out. - -The clockwork toys just described were invented by the author for his -book "Handicraft for Handy Boys," and were the first designs, he -believes, devised for home-made mechanical toys of this nature. No doubt -you have noticed that manufacturers of the so-called "construction -sets"--steel and wood strips supplied with bolts and screws for -assembling--have used these very same forms of models to show what can -be made with their outfits. But your Ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and -aerostat, built as described in this chapter, with materials picked up -at home, will be the equal of any that can be built, and you will have -the satisfaction of knowing that you haven't required an expensive -"construction set" for making them. - -All sorts of toy vehicles can be operated by clockwork. Figure 160 shows - -=An Automobile=, and Fig. 161 shows how the clockwork motor is mounted -upon the chassis and belted to the driving wheel. The same scheme that -was used for the cars of the toy railway described in Chapter VI will be -followed in making - -[Illustration: FIG. 160. THE CAR COMPLETED.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 161. THE FRAMEWORK.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 162.--Top View of Wooden Frame.] - -=The Frame= of the automobile, as that is about the simplest way, and -makes a light, easy-running vehicle. The bed will be cut of a different -pattern, however, as will be seen in Fig. 162. Lay out the piece to the -dimensions shown upon this drawing, and then cut it out, making a -mortise in each end for the wheels to fit in. The spool wheels should be -mounted in the same manner as those of the railway cars, for which see -Fig. 80, Chapter VI, and the directions upon page 51. One end of spool -_A_ should be pivoted with a longer finishing nail than those used for -the other pivots, so that when driven in place about half an inch will -project beyond the frame. A small silk spool should be fastened upon -this for a belt-wheel (see _B_, Fig. 162). The hole in one of these -spools is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, so, in order to -make it fit tightly upon the nail, it is necessary to fill in around the -nail with sealing-wax. To do this, turn the wooden frame upon its edge -and place the spool over the nail, being careful to get the nail in the -exact center of the hole. Then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the -spool, and with a lighted match melt the end and allow it to drip into -the hole. When the hole has been partially filled, allow the wax to -harden a little, and then press it down around the nail with the end of -a match, being careful not to throw the spool out of center by doing so. -The hole should then be filled to the top. - -We are now ready to prepare the clockwork for mounting upon the wooden -frame. The works shown in Fig. 161 are from an alarm clock, but if you -have a striking clock, or one with works a little different from those -shown in the illustration, it does not make a bit of difference in the -scheme for attaching the works. The three parts shown in the foreground -of Fig. 161 must first be removed from the works. These will be -recognized readily in any clock, as they are pivoted close together, and -regulate the speed of the other wheels. When they have been removed, the -mainspring will unwind rapidly. The frame of the works shown in the -illustration is held together with nuts, so that in removing the wheels -it was necessary to unscrew two of them, spring the frame open enough to -let the wheels drop out, and then replace the nuts again in their former -positions. If the frame of your clockwork is riveted together, the -wheels will have to be broken out. A small silk spool, such as _B_ (Fig. -162), should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally operated -the clock's hands, for a belt-wheel. Lay the works upon a table with the -face-side down, and, after centering the hole of the spool upon the -pivot, fasten it in place with sealing-wax in the same manner as you -attached spool _B_ (Fig. 161). - -The works should now be attached to the wooden frame. Place them with -the striker uppermost, near the edge of the frame, so that the small -belt-wheels are in line with one another. Then bore a number of gimlet -holes in the wooden frame and run copper wire through them, passing it -around the posts of the clock-frame and twisting its ends until the -works are firmly fastened in place. - -A rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and long enough to reach -from one belt-wheel to the other should be procured for - -=The Belt.= This should stretch just enough to cling upon the spools, as -more than that would cause too much friction. - -Before going any further with the construction of the automobile - -=Test the Machine=, to be sure that it is in perfect running order. Wind -up the mainspring, pressing a finger against one of the wheels to hold -it in check until you are ready to start the machine. When properly -made, the clockwork automobile should run a distance of from twenty to -twenty-five feet upon a wooden floor, while about three-quarters of that -distance should be covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet. - -=The Cardboard Sides= and other details of the automobile should now be -made. The patterns for these have been so shown in Figs 163 to 170 that -they can easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by means of the -process of enlarging by squares described on page 175, Chapter XVII. -White cardboard should be used upon which to draw these pieces, and the -thinner it is the easier you will find it to work with. - - -[Illustration: FIGS. 163-170.--Patterns for the Automobile -Touring-car.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 171.--Chauffeur.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 172.--Cardboard Side of Automobile.] - -First prepare the two sides, cutting them out by the pattern of Fig. -163. Then glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden -frame, cutting holes in the left side for the belt-wheels and projecting -posts to run through (see Fig. 160 and _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_, and _E_, Fig. -172). The top to the front of the car should now be cut as shown in Fig. -173, the distance between the sides being measured to get the piece of -proper dimensions. Bend the edges as in Fig. 173, and glue them to the -inner surfaces of the side pieces as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. -172. In the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side -pieces at _G_ and _H_ (Fig. 172) for the seat-backs. The bent edges of -these pieces are shown by dotted lines in the illustration. Draw four - -=Wheels= as shown in Fig. 164, using a compass with which to describe -the circles, and cut them out with a sharp knife. You can cut out -between the spokes, if you wish, or leave them solid. Glue the wheels to -the cardboard, placing their centers about as located at _I_ and _J_, -Fig. 172. Four - -=Mud-Guards= should be cut like Fig. 165, with flaps made along one -edge. Then bend these guards around the tops of the wheels, and, after -applying glue to the flaps, press them against the cardboard side, -holding your fingers upon the flaps until the glue has dried (see Fig. -160). The guards should be placed a little above the tops of the wheels. -Cut four - -=Lamps= like Fig. 166 and glue end _K_ of two upon the front of the -automobile at _L_ (Fig. 172) and one of the other two upon each side at -_M_. These lamps are shown in position in the illustration of the -completed automobile (Fig. 160). Draw and cut - -[Illustration: FIG. 173.--The Hood.] - -=The Steering-wheel= similar to Fig. 167, and, after pivoting it to the -end of a strip of cardboard with a pin as shown in Fig. 174, bend the -lower end and glue it to the under side of the cardboard top _F_ at _N_ -(see Fig. 172, also Fig. 160). Make a - -=Horn= like Fig. 168 and glue it to the steering-wheel as shown in Fig. -174. A strip of cardboard about the size of that used for the upright of -the steering-wheel should be cut for - -=The Brake=, and glued to the inside surface of the right side of the -car at _O_ (Fig. 172). - -=The Chauffeur= should now be made. Cut his head and body the shape and -size of Fig. 169, drawing the face upon each side with goggles over the -eyes. Cut the arms in two pieces the shape of _P_ and _Q_ (Fig. 170), -and then pivot _P_ to _Q_ at _R_ and the end of _Q_ to the shoulder of -the body at _S_, using thread for fastening the pieces together. Paint -the hat, coat, sleeves, and gloves a leather color, and the face flesh -color. The body should then be fastened to the hammer of the clockworks -with sealing-wax, as shown in Fig. 171, while the left hand should be -glued to the edge of the steering-wheel and the right to the end of the -brake (see Fig. 160). By thus attaching the body to the end of the -hammer, and winding up the small spring, the chauffeur will shake -violently when the auto runs across the floor, showing the vibrations of -the machine in a greatly exaggerated and amusing manner. - -[Illustration: FIG. 174.--The Steering-wheel.] - -It is now only necessary to - -=Paint the Machine= to complete it. The photograph (Fig. 160) shows -where different colors are needed. The lamps, top, ends, and sides of -the front portion of the car should be painted the color of brass, and -the rest of the sides, with the exception of a strip along the bottom -and the edge of the arms, should be painted vermilion. Paint the inside -of the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color, to represent -leather upholstering. With black paint, or ink, stripe off the door and -trimmings upon the sides and top of the machine, as shown in Figs. 160, -172, and 173. Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes and -rims of the wheels. Along the bottom of each side glue a strip of -cardboard for the running-boards. - -When you have tired of your touring-car, you can easily convert it into - -=An Automobile Delivery Wagon=, such as illustrated in Fig. 175. To make -this you will require the same frame as that used for the touring-car, -with the clockworks and belt-wheels attached in the same manner. If you -have made the touring-car, remove the cardboard sides from its wooden -frame, separating the cardboard from the wood carefully so you can put -the machine together again when you wish. If you haven't made this -automobile, you will find the details for the construction of the frame -in Figs. 161 and 162, and the manner of performing the work described on -pages 104 to 107. - -[Illustration: FIG. 175.--An Automobile Delivery Wagon.] - -=The Cardboard Sides= are much easier to prepare than those for the -touring-car, as they are straight and require but little cutting. The -outline for these is shown in Fig. 175, surrounding the drawing of the -completed wagon. Lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard, using the -dimensions given upon the drawing, and then place it upon a board and -cut it out with your knife. Using this as a pattern, place it upon -another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges, thus -marking out the second side. In cutting out the latter piece, run your -knife a little inside of the line in order to allow for the increase -in size caused by marking it out with the first cardboard side. Having -prepared the two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form as -shown in the illustration, separating them with three lines. Draw a -small window, with its top slightly arched, near the front edge of -each side, and cut an opening for it (see illustration). - -Glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same manner as those of -the touring-car were done, piercing holes for the posts of the clockwork -to fit in, and openings for the belt-wheels to project through, in the -left side. Cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the wagon, fit it -between the sides, and fasten it in place by gluing a number of linen -strips to it and the sides upon the inner or unexposed surfaces. Then -cut a piece of cardboard for the roof, making it about two inches longer -than the sides, to give it the proper projection over the front of the -wagon. Fasten this piece in position in the same manner as you fastened -the back of the wagon. - -Make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of a piece of cardboard -bent as shown in Fig. 175, and fasten it across the top edges of the -projecting portions of the sides with linen strips. Cut a strip for a -seat, and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above the floor. - -=The Wheels= of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes, but as you -have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes, you can -just as well use it in making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted -upon the sides of the wagon, a trifle above the bottoms of the spool -wheels, as shown in the illustration, so they will not touch the carpet -when the machine is operated. - -=All Other Portions= of the wagon should be made of the same patterns -given for the touring-car, viz. the chauffeur (Figs. 169 and 170), the -steering-wheel (Figs. 167 and 174), the brake (Fig. 160), and the lamps -(Fig. 166). As the legs of the chauffeur will show, it will be necessary -to cut a pair out of cardboard (the drawing shows the shape clearly -enough to work by) and fasten them to his body. Fasten the chauffeur -upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel, placing the -latter in front of him, as shown in the drawing. Stick the lower end of -the cardboard upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the -wagon floor from the under side. Glue the upper end of the brake to the -chauffeur's hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon. - -=Paint the Wagon= with water colors, making the sides, end, and roof -olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and spokes of wheels black, and -the lamps yellow or the color of brass. In painting the sides show the -battery compartments upon them below what would properly be the bottom -of the wagon (see illustration). Leave the cardboard white below this -box, as it represents no portion of the machine, but is necessarily -brought down so far to conceal the wooden frame. It will give the -machine a more finished appearance if, after painting, you go over it -with black paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides, -following the lines which you drew upon them with a pencil. Letter the -word "Delivery" upon the center panel of each side, and the firm name in -the small panel between the lamp and window. - -By attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the -automobiles, you can make - -=A Clockwork Railway=, constructing the cars similar to the street car -shown in Fig. 84, Chapter VI, and using the schemes in the same chapter -for the tracks and depots. - -Each car should be provided with a clockwork motor, because a single -clockwork is not strong enough to pull more than one car. Let me know -how you succeed in building a clockwork railway. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS - - -An entire volume might be filled with plans for electrical toys and yet -not exhaust the innumerable forms that are within the ability of a boy -to construct. There is room in this chapter for only a few, and I have -selected simple ideas, those that can be carried out by a boy having no -knowledge of working with electricity, with materials that can be -obtained at an expenditure of little or nothing. Thus every boy will be -able to make these electrical toys. - -=The Electro-Magnet Derrick= shown in Fig. 176 will hoist nails and -other small pieces of hardware from the floor to a table top, and as the -_boom_, or arm, can be swung from side to side, and raised and lowered, -loads can be moved from place to place in the same way as with large -derricks. The toy derrick may be used for loading and unloading toy -wagons, carts, and trains of cars, provided, of course, you use iron or -steel of some sort for your loads. It is easy enough to get nails, -brads, tacks, and odd pieces of hardware for the purpose. The model from -which Fig. 176 was made has lifted a bunch of two hundred and -eighty-four brads 3/8 inch long. By using smaller brads, or tacks, a -much larger number could be lifted. - -The first part of the toy to construct is - -=The Electro-Magnet.= The difference between an electro-magnet and the -toy variety of horse-shoe magnet with which every boy is familiar, is -that the electro-magnet retains its magnetism only so long as an -electric current is passing around it, while the steel magnet retains -its influence permanently, after being magnetized, unless it happens to -be demagnetized by subjection to heat, or in some other way. - -[Illustration: FIG. 176.--An Electro-Magnet Derrick.] - -Figures 177 to 179 show the details for making a simple home-made -electro-magnet. - -An electro-magnet consists of a center _core_ of soft iron, wrapped with -a coil of insulated wire. When an electric current passes over a wire, a -_magnetic field_ is formed around the wire; and when several turns of -insulated wire are wrapped about a soft iron core, the magnetic fields -of all the turns of the coil, or _helix_, combine, forming a very strong -magnetic field which strongly magnetizes the iron core. As I have said -before, this magnet loses its magnetic influence the instant the current -ceases to pass through the surrounding coil of wire. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 177-179.--The Electro-Magnet.] - -You will need a machine-bolt or carriage-bolt 2-1/2 or 3 inches long, -and 1/4 inch in diameter, for the core of the magnet, some insulated -electric-bell wire for the coil, and a piece of heavy cardboard. Cut -three washers of a trifle larger diameter than the bolt-head, out of the -piece of cardboard (Fig. 178), and slip these over the bolt as shown in -Fig. 179--one at the bolt-head end, the other two at the nut end; then -screw the nut on to the end of the bolt. - -[Illustration: FIG. 180.--How the Electro-Magnet is Connected up.] - -Before starting to wind the insulated wire upon the bolt, pierce two -holes through the inner cardboard washer of the two at the nut end. Then -stick the end of the wire through one of these holes, and pull a length -of 4 or 5 inches of the wire out between the two washers. Starting at -this end of the bolt, then, wind the wire around the bolt, keeping the -turns even and each turn pressed close against the preceding turn. When -the washer at the head end of the bolt has been reached, wind back to -the starting point; then wind back to the washer at the head a second -time, and again back to the starting point; and so on until six or eight -layers of wire have been wound in place. An even number of layers will -bring the free end of the wire back to the double-washer end. Slip this -end through the second hole in the inner washer, and bring it out -between the two washers, as you did the first end. Then screw the -bolt-nut tight against the washers, to hold the wire ends in place (Fig. -177). The outer cardboard washer will prevent the nut from chafing the -insulation on the wire ends. - -Now connect the ends of the coil to the binding-posts of a battery cell, -and you will be surprised to find what a strong magnet the head of the -bolt core has become. - -One end of the magnet coil should be connected to a dry-cell, and the -other to a switch; and another wire should connect the switch with the -dry-cell (Fig. 180). - -=A Home-made Switch= that is easily made is shown in Fig. 181. Cut -strips _A_, _B_, and _C_ (Fig. 182) from a tomato can. Tack the turned -up ends of _A_ to a wooden knob (_D_). This forms the switch lever. -Strips _B_ and _C_, folded in half, and punched near the ends, form the -binding-post plates. - -[Illustration: FIG. 181.--A Home-made Switch.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 182.--Details of Switch.] - -Figures 181 and 182 show how to mount the lever and binding-post plates -upon the switch base. Pivot lever _A_ with a small screw passed through -a hole punched near its end, and through the hole near the folded end of -plate _C_. Fasten plate _B_ with a rug-tack (_F_) so the lever will come -in contact with it. Screw-eyes _E_ form the binding-posts. - -[Illustration: FIG. 183.--Detail of Mast.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 184.--Detail of Pulley.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 185.--Detail of Boom.] - -Instead of using a separate base, the switch can be mounted as shown in -Fig. 176, upon the base of - -=The Derrick=. Cut the base about 8 inches wide and 10 inches long (_A_, -Fig. 176). The _mast_ (_B_) is a piece of broom-handle or curtain-pole -16 inches long, and fits loosely in a hole bored in the base. Figure 183 -shows a detail of the mast. The _pulley_ upon its upper end (_C_) is -made of two spool-ends nailed together (Fig. 184), and it turns upon the -axle _D_, which slips through holes in the _plates E_ nailed to the end -of the mast. The _lever F_ sticks in a hole in the mast, close to the -platform. This is used to swing the _boom_ from side to side. Screw-eye -_G_ is placed several inches above _F_ to serve the purpose of a pulley -to guide the hoisting cables. - -Figure 185 shows a detail of the _boom_. Cut the side sticks _H_ 18 -inches long, and fasten between them the _separators I_, which should be -just long enough to allow clearance for the _spool pulley J_. The pulley -is mounted on the axle _K_. Screw the lower ends of the boom to the -mast, at a point 2-1/2 inches above the base. - -=The Windlass= for raising the derrick boom, and for hoisting the loads, -is shown in detail in Fig. 186. Bore a hole through upright _L_ for the -axle _M_ to stick through, and cut axle _M_ enough smaller than the -spool drums _N_ so they will turn easily. Fasten a crank and handle to -one end of each spool, and drive a brad through each end of the axle to -prevent the drums from sliding off. Cut four notches in the inner flange -of each spool, as shown, and pivot the catches _O_ to the post _L_, in -the positions indicated, so they may be thrown into the notches to lock -the windlass (Fig. 176). - -[Illustration: FIG. 186.--Detail of Derrick Windlass.] - -=The Hoisting Cables= should be made of strong cord. Fasten one end of -the cable for raising the boom to a nail (P, Fig. 176), and run this -cord up and over the mast pulley, then down through screw-eye _G_ and -over to one drum; tie it securely to the drum so it will not slip -around. The other cable should be fastened between the nut and washer -of the magnet, as shown in Fig. 180, run up and over the boom pulley -_J_, then through screw-eye _G_, and tied to the second drum. - -Figure 176 shows how the dry-cell may be strapped to the base board in -front of the mast, and how the wires that connect the electro-magnet, -switch, and cell should be twisted around the hoisting cable, part way, -and the remainder of their length allowed to hang. Be sure to cut the -wires long enough to reach from a table-top down to the floor. Use -flexible wire if you can get it. - -By mounting the base upon spool wheels, your derrick can be moved along -a table-top. Spool-ends may be used for the wheels, and can either be -screwed to the edge of the base, or be fastened upon axles as the wheels -of the _Electric Motor Truck_ are fastened (Figs. 203 and 208). - -=How the Derrick Works.= It is probably unnecessary to explain that a -load is picked up by throwing over the switch lever to the contact point -and closing the circuit, and that it is dropped by throwing off the -switch lever and opening the circuit--which causes the electro-magnet to -lose its magnetism. - -=A Toy Shocking Machine.=.The little shocking machine shown in Fig. 187 -is a harmless toy with which you can have an endless amount of fun when -entertaining friends. The shock it produces is not severe, but strong -enough to make your friend's arm and wrist muscles twitch, and perhaps -cause him to dance. Large shocking coils contract the muscles to such an -extent that it is impossible to let go of the metal grips until the -current has been shut off, but in our small shocking machine the handles -can be dropped the instant the person holding them wishes to do so. - -[Illustration: FIG. 187.--Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine.] - -The shocking machine consists of an _induction-coil_, an _interrupter_, -and a pair of _handles_, all of which are easy for a boy to make, and a -_wet_ or _dry battery_ of one or two cells to furnish the current. - -[Illustration: FIGS, 188-191.--Details of Induction-Coil.] - -=The Induction-Coil= is the first part to make. This is shown in detail -in Figs. 188 to 191. The coil has windings of two sizes of wire upon an -iron core. For the core buy a 5/16-inch carriage-bolt 2-1/2 inches long, -and for the wire coils get some No. 20- or 24-gauge electric-bell -insulated copper wire, and some No. 30-gauge insulated magnet-wire. To -keep the wire from slipping off the ends of the bolt core, cut two -cardboard ends about 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Slip one of these on to -the bolt next to the head, and the other one next to the nut, as shown -in Fig. 188. - -Three layers of the coarse wire should be wound on first, for - -=The Primary-Coil.= Pierce a hole through one cardboard end, stick the -wire through it, and allow about 5 inches to project upon the outside; -then commence winding the wire upon the core, placing each turn close to -the preceding turn. When the opposite end of the bolt has been reached, -wind back to the starting point, then work back to the other end again. -There will be in the neighborhood of 175 turns in the three layers. Cut -off the wire so there will be a 5-inch projection, and stick the -projecting end through a hole in the cardboard end. This completes the -primary-coil (Fig. 189). - -Before winding the small wire on top of the primary-coil, to form - -=The Secondary-coil=, wrap the primary-coil with a layer of bicycle -tape, or glue several layers of paper around the coil. Then wind on the -small wire as you did the coarser wire, being very careful to get it on -evenly and smoothly. Wind eleven layers on the coil, and run the end of -the eleventh layer out through the cardboard end (Fig. 190). There -should be about 100 turns of this wire to the layer, or 1100 turns in -all. - -A crank arrangement can be rigged up to make the winding easier, but -with patience, and by doing the work slowly, the wire can be wound -almost as well by hand. It is difficult to keep track of each preceding -turn, while winding, because of the fineness of the wire, and on this -account it is a good scheme to coat each layer with bluing after it has -been wound on, so that each turn of the following layer will show -plainly against the stained layer beneath it. Figure 190 shows the -complete induction-coil. - -Cut a base block 5 inches wide and 7 inches long, bevel the top edges to -give it a trim appearance, and mount the induction-coil to one side of -the center (Fig. 187), strapping it in place by means of two tin straps -similar to that shown in Fig. 191, cut from a tin can. - -The projecting ends of the primary-coil connect with the battery, while -the two ends of the secondary-coil connect with the handles. Make three -binding-post plates out of folded pieces of tin, similar to plates _B_ -and _C_, in Fig. 182. Tack two of these to the end of the base and -connect the secondary-coil wires to them (Fig. 187), and tack the third -near one end of the induction-coil and connect one primary-coil wire to -it (Fig. 187). - -=For the Handles= take two pieces of broom-handle 3-1/2 inches long, and -cover each with a piece of tin (Fig. 192). The pattern for the tin -covering (Fig. 193) shows how tabs are prepared on the ends and holes -punched through them for connecting with the induction-coil. The -connecting wires should be 5 or 6 feet long. Flexible wire is better -than bell-wire for these, because it is more easily handled in passing -the handles around. Tack the tin covering to the pieces of -broom-handle. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 192 and 193.--Details of Shocking-coil Handles.] - -The purpose of the induction-coil is to raise the voltage of the -battery. The flow of current must be an interrupted one, in order to -shock, and therefore - -=An Interrupter= must be inserted between the battery and one of the -wires leading to the primary-coil of the induction-coil. There are -several ways to construct an interrupter, but the scheme which I have -invented for the model of this shocking-machine (Fig. 187) serves the -purpose nicely, and is a neat appearing little piece of apparatus. This -interrupter is easily constructed as you will see by the working details -shown in Figs. 194 to 198. - -[Illustration: FIG. 194.--Interrupter for Shocking-coil.] - -Cut the base block _A_ 1-1/2 inches wide and 2-1/2 inches long. Make the -shaft _B_ 2-3/4 inches long and of a diameter equal to the hole in a -thread spool; and prepare the crank _C_ to fit on the end, and drive a -brad into it for a handle. Fasten the crank to the shaft with glue, or -by driving a small brad through the two. The shaft supports _D_ should -be prepared as shown in Fig. 196, 1-1/4 inches wide across the bottom, -5/8 inch wide at the top, and 1-3/4 inches high. Bore a hole through -each, a little below the top, and large enough so the shaft will turn -easily, and fasten these supports with brads to the sides of base _A_. -Drive eight brads into a thread spool, spacing them equidistant from one -another, and mount this spool upon the shaft (_E_, Fig. 194), first -slipping the shaft through one support, then through the spool, and then -through the other support. Drive the spool brads a trifle into the shaft -to hold the spool in position. - -The projecting arm _F_ (Fig. 194) is a strip of tin cut from a can, and -must be long enough so each nail-head will strike its end when spool _E_ -is revolved. Drive a nail into base _A_, at _G_, and, after bending -strip _F_ as shown in Fig. 198, fasten it with brads upon the top of an -upright made similar to _H_ (Fig. 197), and nail this upright to the end -of base _A_. The upper end of strip _F_ must be bent so it will bear -down upon the head of nail _G_. - -The wire from the primary-coil which is as yet not connected should be -attached to nail _G_, and one battery wire should be connected to a -binding-post plate _I_ fastened to the lower end of strip _F_. Figure -198 shows how the binding-post plate is made out of a doubled piece of -tin, with a hole punched through it for a small binding-screw. - -This completes the interrupter. Mount it beside the induction-coil upon -the base block, and connect it with the battery and the induction-coil, -as shown in Fig. 187. Connect the battery cells in series. Two cells -will be enough. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 195-198.--Details of Interrupter.] - -=How the Interrupter Works.= When you turn the crank of the interrupter, -each nail in spool _E_ raises the end of strip _F_, in passing it, thus -breaking the electrical contact between it and the head of nail _G_. If -the strip has been bent properly, it will spring back into contact with -the head of nail _G_, and each time the contact is made, the person -holding the handles will receive a shock. The strength of the current -can be regulated somewhat by the speed with which the interrupter crank -is turned. The shocks are stronger and more distinct when the crank is -turned slowly. - -Home-made electrical toys of a light construction are easily operated by -a toy motor, when the motor and battery cell are not carried by the toy; -but when both are transported, as in the case of a wagon, the -construction must be very carefully worked out, or the motor will not be -powerful enough to drive the wheels. - -=The Toy Electric Motor Truck= shown in Fig. 199 is of light -construction, the axle bearings produce very little friction, and the -battery is light and of a powerful type. - -[Illustration: FIG. 199.--A Toy Electric Motor Truck.] - -Get an oblong shaped cigar-box for the _bed_ and _sides_ of the truck, -several large thread spools for _wheels_ and _pulleys_, two small -silk-thread spools, four lead-pencils, or sticks whittled perfectly -round and 1/4 inch in diameter, for _axles_, _belt-shaft_, and -_steering-wheel post_, and six screw-eyes 5/16 inch in diameter for the -_bearings_. - -First, place the cigar-box in a wash-boiler or wash-tub of hot water, -and allow it to remain there until the paper labels have soaked off or -loosened sufficiently so they can be scraped off with a knife. - -[Illustration: FIG. 200.--Top view of Electric Motor Truck.] - -Then, after the box has thoroughly dried, cut the two strips _A_ (Fig. -208), and fasten them to the bottom, one at each side. Screw the -screw-eye axle bearings into these strips. Place them at equal distances -from the ends of the strips. - -=The Wheels= are made from the flange ends of the large spools. Figure -202 shows the front pencil axle. Slip the center portion of one of the -large spools on to this for a pulley, then stick the pencil ends -through the screw-eyes in strips _A_, and glue the spool-end wheels on -to them. The rear axle is like the front one, with the spool pulley -omitted (Fig. 203). - -=The Upper Shaft= shown in Fig. 201 supports a spool pulley like the one -on the front axle, and its screw-eye bearings should be screwed into the -top edge of the sides of the box (Fig. 200), directly over the front -axle. Slip a silk-spool on to each end of this shaft to keep its ends -from slipping out of the screw-eyes. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 201-203.--Details of Axle and Belt Shaft.] - -=The Belts.= As you will see by Figs. 200 to 202, the upper large pulley -is belted to the motor pulley, and another belt extends from the upper -shaft down to the pulley on the front axle. Rubber-bands make the best -belts. Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar-box for the belt -extending from the upper shaft to the front axle to pass through. Screw -the toy motor to the cigar-box with its pulley directly in line with the -upper shaft pulley. Wrap the spool pulleys with bicycle-tape, to keep -the rubber-band belts from slipping. - -=The Battery.= A dry battery is too heavy for the motor truck to carry; -so we must make a special two-cell battery like that shown in Fig. 204. -Two glass tumblers to hold the solution, a pair of battery zincs, a pair -of carbons, and a bi-chromate of potash solution, are needed. Old -battery zinc pencils with several inches of the eaten end cut off (Fig. -206) will do for the zincs, and the carbons from worn-out dry-battery -cells cut to a corresponding length will do for the carbons. Fasten -together the zincs and carbons with rubber-bands, as shown in Fig. 207, -after wrapping a piece of bicycle-tape around the upper end of the -carbon and inserting a small wad of it between the lower ends of the -carbons and zincs, to keep them from touching one another. - -[Illustration: FIG. 204.--Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in -Series.] - -Figure 205 shows a completed cell, and Fig. 204 how the two cells are -connected in _series_, that is, with the carbon of one connected to the -zinc of the other. Twisting the connecting wires into coils, as shown, -is a good method of taking up the slack. - -[Illustration: FIG. 205.--A Single Cell.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 206 and 207.--Details of Zinc and Carbon.] - -=The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid= is made up of bi-chromate of potash, -sulphuric acid, and water, in the following proportions: - - 4 ounces of bi-chromate of potash - 4 ounces of sulphuric acid - 1 quart of water - -In making up this solution, first add the acid to the water,--_never add -the water to the acid_--and then, when the solution is nearly cool, add -the bi-chromate of potash. Pour the acid into the water slowly, because -the combination of the two creates a great deal of heat, and if the -heat forms too quickly your glass bottle is likely to split. Label the -bottle in which you put this solution POISON. - -As the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc element of a cell even when -the current is not being drawn upon, the zinc should be removed when the -cell is not in use. - -=Amalgamating a Zinc Pencil.= To reduce the eating away of a zinc pencil -used in a bi-chromate solution, the zinc should be amalgamated by -rubbing a thin coat of mercury over its surface. Dip the zinc into the -solution, first, then with a rag dipped in the solution rub the mercury -on to it. - -Cut an opening through the cigar-box large enough for the two tumblers -to set in. Then cut a strip of tin about 1 inch wide and 8 inches long, -and bend it into a U-shaped hanger, to support the tumbler bottoms. Slip -the hanger ends under strips _A_, bend them against the sides of the -box, and fasten with tacks (Figs. 208 and 209). - -[Illustration: FIG. 208.--Plan of Motor Truck Bottom.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 209.--Section through Bottom.] - -Figure 200 shows how the battery cells are connected. A small switch can -be fastened to the side of the truck to shut off and turn on the -current, but, instead, you can simply withdraw one pair of elements from -its tumbler to shut off the current. When through playing with the -truck, however, it is important to remove both pairs of elements and -wash them off, because the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc -elements even when the current is not in use. As the bi-chromate -solution stains very badly, it is advisable to operate the motor truck -only where there is no danger of ruining anything in case some of the -solution spills, as in the basement or workshop. If you wish to use a -dry-cell instead of the pair of bi-chromate cells, you can place the -cell upon the floor and make the wires connecting it to the motor long -enough so the truck can run back and forth across a room. - -[Illustration: FIG. 210--Details of Seat and Canopy-top.] - -=The Seat and Canopy-top= details are shown in Fig. 210. Make these in -about the proportion to the cigar-box shown in Fig. 199. Fasten the seat -to the edge of the seat-back _B_ with glue and brads, and then fasten -the side pieces _A_ to the ends of the seat. The dashboard _E_ is nailed -to the bottom piece _D_, and _D_ is nailed to the lower ends of side -pieces _A_. Figure 211 shows the pattern for the canopy-top. Make it of -light-weight cardboard, or heavy writing-paper. Slash the ends as shown; -then turn down the corners, and lap and glue them to form the -turned-down canopy ends. Fasten the ends to the canopy uprights with -tacks. - -[Illustration: FIG. 211.--Pattern of Canopy-top.] - -=The Seat-arms= are pieces of bent wire, with their ends stuck into -holes in the canopy uprights and front edge of the seat. - -=The Steering-wheel= is a section of a spool 1/8 inch thick, and is -glued upon the end of a pencil or a stick. Run the lower end of the -pencil through a hole in the bottom of _D_ (Fig. 210). For - -=The Levers=, fasten two small sticks to the end of the bottom piece _D_ -with small staples. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY - - -[Illustration: FIG. 212.--The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery.] - -This interesting toy, with its funny animal targets, and a harmless -pistol with which to shoot at them, will provide an endless amount of -fun for a winter's evening or stormy afternoon. - -Figure 212 shows the completed toy, and Fig. 213 the box that forms - -=The Framework.= The targets can be arranged to suit the form of box -that you find, and the number may be increased or decreased to suit the -space. - -[Illustration: FIG. 213.--The Box Framework.] - -The right position for the box is upon its side so its open top forms -the front of the target box (Fig. 213). The horizontal piece _A_ (Fig. -213) is fastened between the ends of the box, to support targets. It is -held in place by nails driven through the box ends into its ends. If -your box is much larger than the one shown in the illustration, you can -provide two crosspiece supports for targets, instead of one. - -=The Circular Target= should be drawn upon a piece of cardboard with a -compass, or, by marking around a cup or small saucer to make the outer -circle, marking around a can cover for the second circle, and a coin for -the center circle. Blacken the outside and center rings with ink, or by -rubbing with a soft pencil. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 214-215.--Details of Targets.] - -Figure 214 shows how the target should be hinged in place to the -horizontal strip _A_. Tack or glue the lower edge of the piece of -cardboard to a block of wood _B_. Then cut a hinge-strip out of a piece -of dress lining, and either tack or glue one-half of it to block _B_ and -the other half to the target support _A_. - -=The Animal Targets= are made with pictures cut from magazines and -newspapers. The pictures should be colored with crayons or water-colors, -to make them as nearly like their right colors as possible. - -After cutting out the pictures, paste them upon cardboard, mount the -pieces of cardboard upon blocks of wood, as shown at _B_ and _C_ (Figs. -214 and 215), and hinge the blocks to the target supports with cloth -strips. _B_ shows the method of hinging the targets to strip _A_, and to -the lower side of the box, and _C_ shows the method of hinging the -targets to the ends of the box. The former targets fall backwards when -struck; the latter targets swing sideways when struck. - -[Illustration: FIG. 216.--The Card-shooting Pistol.] - -Figure 216 shows - -=The Card-shooting Pistol=, and Figs. 217, 218, and 219 show the details -for making it. Cut block _A_ about 8 inches long, and block _B_ about 3 -inches long. Nail _A_ to _B_ as shown. Then take two rubber-bands, loop -them together end to end, as shown in Fig. 218, and fasten one end of -the looped bands to the end of block _A_ by means of a nail driven into -the block and bent over as shown in Fig. 217. Cut a piece of cardboard -about I inch square, notch the center of two opposite edges (Fig. 219), -and fit the loop of the free end of the rubber-bands over the piece of -cardboard and into the notches, as shown in Figs. 217 and 218. This -completes the pistol. - -The toy pistol shoots small squares of cardboard, placed in it as shown -in Figs. 216 and 218, with one corner slipped beneath the rubber-band -loop. - -=Number the Targets= as shown in Fig. 212, marking the circular target -"25," four of the animal targets "10," and the remaining four "5." Each -number represents the score of that particular target. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 217-219.--Detail of Card-shooting Pistol.] - -=When Shooting=, stand 3 or 4 feet away from the target box. Aim at the -circular target, because that one counts the most. If you miss it, there -is the chance, of course, of hitting one of the other targets below or -to one side of it and making a smaller score. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE - - -There is nothing more interesting to build than a doll-house, and the -construction is within the ability of the average girl. If brother is -willing to lend a hand with the carpenter work so much the better. -Sister can attend to the finishing and furnishing, which are important -parts of the work that she can do more handily than a boy can. But there -is no reason why either a girl or boy cannot undertake a doll-house like -that shown in Figs. 220 and 221, and carry the work to a successful -completion, by carefully following the instructions and diagrams in this -chapter. - -=The Building Material.= The doll-house in the photographs was built of -packing cases. You can buy these at a drygoods store at 15 or 20 cents -apiece. - -=The Floor Plans= are shown in Figs. 222, 223, and 224. Your boxes may -make it necessary to alter the dimensions given, but that will be simple -to do. Patterns for - -=The Partitions= are shown in Figs. 225 and 226. In cutting the -second-floor partitions (Fig. 226), miter one edge of _E_ and _F_ to -allow for the bedroom door opening, shown upon the plan, and miter the -edges of _G_ to fit between them above the door. The mitering is shown -in the drawings (Fig. 226). - -Besides cutting a stair opening in the second floor, make an opening -three by five inches in the second and third floors for - -=The Elevator-shaft.= Care must be taken to have these openings exactly -over one another. Make the opening in the second floor six by eight -inches in the place indicated upon the plan. This will allow for the -elevator shaft and stairway. No stairway has been built to the third -story, as the elevator serves the purpose, and one would take up too -much of the ball-room space. - -=The Side Walls= should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four -inches high, and the other two walls thirty inches wide by twenty-four -inches high. That portion of - -=The Rear Wall= enclosing the kitchen and bathroom is hinged to open -(see Fig. 222), and - -=The Front Wall= is made in two sections, each hinged to a strip of wood -an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house, as shown -in Fig. 220. - -=The Windows= are four by five inches, so four-by-five camera plates can -be used for the glass. - -=The Roof= had best be made in two sections, each measuring twenty-eight -inches long by twenty-four inches wide. Fasten the boards together with -battens on the under side and, after mitering the upper edge of each, -nail them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches above the -third floor. Then nail a board nineteen inches long by ten -inches wide in the peak of the roof (_D_ in Fig. 228), and -a narrow strip three inches from each side wall (_K_ and _L_ in Fig. -224). These cut off the triangular shape of the ball-room and give it a -better appearance. - -[Illustration: FIG. 220. THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 221. INTERIOR VIEW OF DOLL-HOUSE.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 222-226.--Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for -Partitions.] - -=The Chimney= is a solid block of wood with narrow strips nailed to all -sides near the top (Fig. 227). Make it eight or ten inches long, and cut -off the bottom to fit the slant of the roof. Paint the block red, and -mark off the mortar joints in white. - -=An Elevator= is something which is found in but few doll-houses. It was -built in this house, thinking it might please the young mistress, and it -proved such a success that the scheme has been worked out carefully in -Figs. 228, 229, 230, 231, and 232, that you may include it in the house -you build. - -[Illustration: FIG. 227.--The Chimney.] - -The cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been described. For -material, procure two small pulleys such as is shown in Fig. 230, four -feet of brass chain, six feet of No. 12 wire, half a dozen -double-pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead -pipe, and a cigar-box. Make - -[Illustration: FIG. 228.--Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs.] - -[Illustration: FIGS. 229-232.--Details of the Elevator.] - -=The Car= out of the cigar-box, cutting it down to two and one-quarter -inches wide, three and three-quarters inches deep, and seven inches high -(see Fig. 231). Place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in -each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through and another in -the center of the top from which to attach the brass chain. - -=The Guide-wires= are made of very heavy wire that will not bend easily. -Cut two of a length to reach from the first floor to the ball-room -ceiling, and after running them through the tacks in the sides of the -car, stick their ends into small holes bored at _E_, _F_, _G_, and _H_ -(Fig. 228). The upper holes should be bored through the ball-room -ceiling, while the lower ones need be bored but part way through the -first floor. Care must be taken to have these holes in the correct -position, so the elevator will run up and down upon the wires without -striking the sides of the shaft. The easiest way of fastening the wires -in place is to run the upper ends through the holes, until the lower -ends can be set into their sockets, and then drive two double-pointed -tacks over the top of each wire, as shown at _E_ and _F_ in Fig. 228. - -Now run the elevator up to the top of the shaft, and mark upon the -ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of the car strikes. At this point -bore a hole through the ceiling and two inches back of it bore another -hole, through which to run the weight-chain. When this has been done, -cut a short block of wood to fit the peak of the roof and - -=Screw the Pulleys= into it two inches apart (Fig. 229). Fit the block -in the peak of the roof, centering the front pulley over the top of the -car as nearly as possible, and drive a couple of nails through the roof -boards into it to hold it in place temporarily. Then - -=Attach the Chain= to the tack in the top of the car, slip a piece of -lead pipe about an inch long over the chain, allowing it to set on the -top of the car to make the latter heavier (Fig. 231), and run the chain -up through the first hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys, and down -through the second hole. To the end of the chain attach a piece of lead -pipe for - -=The Counter-balance= (_C_, Fig. 232). This should be just heavy enough -to make a perfect balance between it and the car, which can be obtained -by whittling off the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the -same. Make the chain of sufficient length so the weight will rest upon -the first floor when the car is at the third floor. You can now tell -whether or not the pulleys are in the right positions. When they have -been adjusted properly, nail the block firmly in place. - -=The Gable-Ends.= The front gable-end consists of four pieces (_A_, _B_, -_C_, and _D_, in Fig. 233), the dimensions for the cutting of which are -given in the illustration. After preparing these, nail _A_, _B_, and _C_ -in their proper positions in the gable of the roof, and trim the edges -of _D_, if they need it, to fit between. To prevent the movable section -from pushing in too far, it will be necessary to nail a narrow strip of -wood to the roof and third floor, just inside of it. The rear gable is -made in one piece, and is fastened in place permanently. - -[Illustration: FIG. 233.--The Front Gable-End.] - -The movable gable and all hinged portions should have - -=Spring-Catches= with which to shut up and lock the house (see the -illustrations). - -=The Stairway= is shown in Fig. 228, and the details for its -construction will be found in Figs. 234, 235, 236, 237. This stairway is -made in two parts, with a platform between. Cut a block of wood the -shape and size shown in Fig. 234 for the platform, with notches at _A_ -and _B_ for the tops of the lower stringers to fit in. Then - -=Prepare Two Stringers= of thirteen steps similar to Fig. 235, and two -stringers of five steps similar to Fig. 236, laying off the steps by -means of a cardboard pattern, or _pitch-board_, of the size shown in -Fig. 237. After cutting out these pieces, fasten the tops of the lower -stringers in the notches A and B in the platform, and nail the platform -in its proper position in the corner of the hall. When this has been -done, nail the bottoms of the upper stringers (_E_ in Fig. 236) to the -sides of the platform at _C_ and _D_ (Fig. 234), and set the tops in -notches cut in the edge of the second floor. - -=The Treads and Risers= of the steps--the horizontal and vertical -boards--should be cut out of cigar-box wood. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 234-237.--Details of Stairs.] - -Cut - -=The Newel-posts= out of short square blocks, and - -=The Hand-rails= out of strips of cigar-box wood. Make a groove in the -under side of the hand-rails to receive the ends of - -=The Balusters=, or spindles. Toothpicks are of just the right size for -balusters. - -The delicate portions of the stairways should be glued in place. Make -slits in the stair treads to stick the bottoms of the balusters in. - -=The Front Steps= are clearly shown in Fig. 220. Make the solid -balustrades out of pieces of box board, and the step treads and risers -out of cigar-box wood. Prepare the rear steps in the same way. - -=Cut the Window Openings= in the places indicated upon the plans (Figs. -222 to 224) and the photographs. First bore holes in the four corners of -each window space; then saw from hole to hole with a compass-saw. - -Old camera plates are excellent material for - -=The Window Glass.= Fasten the glass in the openings with small brads in -the same way that glass is fastened in picture-frames, and putty it in -the same way that window glass is puttied, to hold it firm. - -=The Front and Rear Doors= can be painted upon the front of the house. -Openings are not necessary. - -=The Outside Trimmings.= Strips of cigar-box wood should be cut up for -the outside door and window casings, and be tacked around the openings -as shown in Fig. 220. Nail a molding or a plain strip of wood to the -front edge of the third floor, as shown in Fig. 220. - -=Castors= will make it easier to move the doll-house about. Cut four -blocks of wood, fasten a castor to each, and nail one block inside each -corner of the foundation frame. - -=The Interior Woodwork.= Cigar-boxes make excellent hardwood floors. Fit -the pieces close together and fasten with small brads. - -Make the door and window casings, picture-moldings, and baseboards out -of strips of cigar-box wood. - -After completing the carpenter work of the house, - -=Set the Nail-heads=,--that is, drive them below the surface of the -wood,--putty these holes and all cracks and other defective places, and -sandpaper rough surfaces. - -=Paint the House= a cream color, with white trimmings and a green roof. -Stripe the foundation walls to indicate courses of stone work. Paint the -front door a mahogany color, with panels indicated upon it, and make the -rear door white. The painting of the chimney has already been described. - -The inside walls should be finished as suggested in Chapter XIV. The -woodwork may be oiled, or painted with white enamel or any other color -desired. - -=A Colonial Doll-house= with a number of features not included in this -house is described and illustrated in Chapter V of "The Boy Craftsman." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE - - -With the carpenter work of a doll-house completed, the finishing of the -inside,--wall papering and painting,--and selecting of furnishings for -the various rooms, remain to be done. This requires as much care as the -building of the house, and while any boy can do the work, the help of a -sister will perhaps simplify matters and give to the rooms a daintier -appearance. - -=The Walls and Ceiling= of the kitchen and bathroom should be painted -with white lead or white enamel. For the other rooms select paper having -a small design, such as is to be found on most ceiling papers. If you -have ever watched the paper-hanger at work, you have noticed he puts on -the ceiling first, allowing the paper to run down the walls a little way -all around instead of trimming it off. Then he hangs the wall paper, and -if there is no border to cover the joints of the ceiling and wall papers -he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling. Use flour paste to stick on -the paper, and a cloth or photograph-print roller to smooth out the -wrinkles. The dining-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below the -chair-rail, and a paper with little or no figure upon it above. - -=All Hardwood Floors=, the stairs, door and window casings, baseboards, -and picture moldings should be varnished thoroughly or given several -coats of boiled linseed-oil. - -All floors, with the exception of the kitchen, bathroom, and hardwood -floors, should be fitted with - -=Carpets.= If you do not happen to have suitable scraps on hand, they -can be procured at almost any furnishing store where they make up -carpets. Select pieces with as small patterns as possible. The floors of -the bathroom and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth. - -=Rugs= for the hardwood floors may be made out of scraps of carpet. - -=Window-shades= may be made for each window out of linen, and tacked to -the top casing so that the bottom of the curtain reaches just above the -center of the opening. Each window should also have - -=Lace Curtains= made out of scraps of lace. They should either be tacked -above the windows or hung upon poles made out of No. 12 wire, cut in -lengths to fit the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the top -window-casings for the poles to hang upon. - -=Handsome Portières= for the doorways can be made with beads and with -the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens. For the - -=Bead Portières=, cut threads as long as the height of the door and -string the beads upon them, alternating the colors in such a way as to -produce patterns. Then tie the strings together to a piece of wire the -width of the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening. The - -=Straw Portières= are made similarly. - -From magazine illustrations you can select - -=Suitable Pictures= for each room, but if you are handy with brush and -pencil you may prefer to make the pictures yourself. These may be -mounted upon cardboard and have their edges bound with passe-partout -paper to give the effect of frames, or frames may be cut out of -cardboard and pasted to them. Hang the pictures to the picture molding -with thread. - -=A Cosey-corner= may be fitted up in the ball-room by fastening a strip -of a cigar-box in one corner an inch and one-half above the floor for -the seat, and hanging draperies on each side of it. Pillows may be made -for it out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton. - -A doll-house properly proportioned in every detail, including the -selection of its furniture, is pleasing to look at, and is to be desired -much more than some of the specimens to be found in the stores. These -very often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel, beds that either -fill two-thirds of the bedroom space or are so small they are hidden -from view by the chairs, and other furniture accordingly, all having -been selected without any thought as to size or fitness. - -Care must be taken, in buying the furniture, to have the pieces suitable -to the rooms. It will no doubt require more time than to purchase the -first sets you come across, but when you have completed the selections, -the result will be a much better appearing doll-house. - -By carefully searching the toy-shops you are almost certain of finding -what you want for the various rooms, as about everything imaginable in -furniture has been manufactured. Porcelain bath-tubs, wash-basins with -real faucets and running water, gilt furniture, chandeliers, and such -articles are tempting to buy. But it is rather expensive to fit up a -house in this way, for, though each piece may not amount to very much, -they count up very quickly. - -The suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture in Chapter XVII, -and spool and cardboard furniture in Chapter XIX, will give you plenty -of material for furniture and save you the expense of buying this part -of the furnishings for your house. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE - - -[Illustration: FIG. 238.--Exterior of Stable.] - -The stable illustrated in Figs. 238 and 239 is designed in keeping with -the doll-house in Chapter XIII. It is shown in the background of the -photograph of this doll-house (Fig. 220). If you prefer a garage instead -of this stable, you may omit the stalls, and make one or two large -windows in the rear wall in place of the small high windows shown. The -building's construction is very simple. The dimensions are: width, -twenty-four inches; depth, twelve inches; and height, twenty-two inches. -The barn contains five stalls on the ground floor and a hay-loft above. - -[Illustration: FIG. 239.--Interior of Stable.] - -To build the stable according to the drawings, a box ten by twelve by -twenty-four inches should be procured for - -=The First Story.= If you have a box of different proportions it will be -a simple matter to make such alterations in the details as it will -require. - -=The Roof= is made in two sections, each fifteen by eighteen inches, and -is fastened to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches -above the bottom. - -=The Gable-End= is made in four pieces, as shown in Fig. 240, _A_, _B_, -and _C_, to be nailed in place, and _D_ to be movable as in the case of -the doll-house. Make a three-by-five-inch window in the center of _D_, -and fasten the glass in place with strips cut as described in Chapter -XIII. Strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the movable -section to prevent the latter from setting in too far, and a spring -catch fastened to _C_ and _D_ as shown, to hold the movable section in -place. - -[Illustration: FIG. 240.--Front Gable-End.] - -Figure 241 gives the patterns and measurements for - -=The Stall Partitions=, four of which should be cut out and fastened to -the floor of the stable four inches apart, or so they will divide the -inside width into five equal stalls. - -[Illustration: FIG. 241.--Stall Partitions.] - -=The Feed-troughs= are made out of two strips of cigar-boxes fitted -between the stalls, as shown in Figs. 239 and 241, and are fastened in -place by means of brads and glue. Above the stalls cut - -=Small Windows= an inch and one-half square in the rear wall. These are -the ventilating windows for the stalls, and may be left open. - -Figure 242 shows the construction of - -=A Ladder= to the hay-loft. This is made out of two sticks twelve inches -long, with strips of cigar-boxes two inches long glued to them half an -inch apart, as shown in the drawing. Cut away a section of the hay-loft -floor two inches square and stick the end of the ladder up through the -opening, fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor (see Fig. 242). - -[Illustration: FIG. 242.--Ladder to Hay-loft.] - -A stick about three inches long, with a very small pulley attached near -the end, should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a - -=Feed-hoist= (see Fig. 238). - -The first story has - -=A Drop-Front=, as shown in Figs. 238 and 239. This is made from the -box-cover. Fasten the boards together with battens placed upon the -inside, and hinge it to the bottom of the stable. Nail two cleats to the -under side of the floor (see Fig. 238) to lift it off the ground just -enough to allow the front to drop without springing its hinges. - -When the front is down it forms an incline upon which to run the horses -into the stable. For this reason it is not advisable to cut an opening -in it, but merely - -=Represent a Stable Door= on the outside (see Fig. 238). This is done -with paint and a fine brush. First paint a green panel in the center of -the front, and then mark off a couple of panels within this space with -black paint, and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards. - -With strips of wood half an inch wide make - -=A Simple Trim= around the door, the sides of the stable, and around the -gable, as shown in the illustration. - -When the carpenter work has been finished, - -=Paint the Inside= of the stable white, and the outside the same colors -as used for the doll-house (see description in Chapter XIII). - -=If you Prefer a Garage=, use your ingenuity to fit up the interior of -the building as you think it ought to be. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING - - -The doll apartment building in this chapter is a new idea in -doll-houses. By the illustrations you will see that the apartment -building is three stories high, and consists of three units--each one -story high--and a roof. During playtime the units are arranged side by -side upon the floor so as to form a six-room apartment (Fig. 244); and -afterward they are piled up one upon another as shown in Fig. 243, and -the roof placed on top, in a compact form that takes up but little floor -space. - -=Building Material.= The apartment building is built out of grocery -boxes. The boxes used for the units must be of equal size, and the thing -to do is to select those in which a standard brand of goods come packed. -If one grocery store doesn't have what you want, go to another. If the -sides and ends of the boxes are in one piece, it will greatly simplify -the matter of cutting the door and window openings. - -=The Room Dimensions.= The boxes used in the model illustrated were 28 -inches long, 13 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. These provided space for -a vestibule 3 inches by 8 inches, a reception-hall 8-1/2 inches by 8 -inches, a living-room 12 inches by 18-1/2 inches, a dining-room 12 -inches by 15 inches, a kitchen 12 inches by 8 inches, a pantry 7 inches -by 3 inches, two bedrooms--one 12 inches square and the other 12 inches -by 8 inches, and a bathroom 7-1/2 inches by 6 inches (Fig. 245). You may -have to vary the sizes of your rooms a trifle, if you get boxes of -different proportions, but it is probable that you can keep to the same -plan arrangement. - -[Illustration: FIG. 245.--Plan of the Six-Room Doll Apartment.] - -=The First Story Unit= is shown in Fig. 246, and diagrams of its two -partitions _A_ and _B_, are placed to the right of it; Fig. 247 shows - -=The Second Story Unit=, with diagrams of its three partitions _C_, _D_, -and _E_, placed to the left and right of it, and Fig. 248 shows - -=The Third Story Unit=, with diagrams of its two partitions _F_ and _G_ -placed to the left of it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 244.--HOW THE THREE STORIES ARE ARRANGED SIDE BY -SIDE TO FORM A SIX-ROOM APARTMENT.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 243.--THE MOST STYLISH APARTMENTS IN DOLL TOWN.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 246.--The First Story Unit and Diagram of -Partitions.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 247.--The Second Story Unit and Diagram of -Partitions.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 248.--The Third Story Unit and Diagram of -Partitions.] - -=Mark the Door and Window Openings= carefully upon the sides of the box, -making them as nearly as possible in the same proportion to the wall -space as is shown in the illustrations. Then, in cutting the openings, -bore a number of small holes a trifle inside of the lines, to make an -opening large enough to insert a small keyhole-saw or bracket-saw, and -the cutting will be easy to do. - -=The Bay Windows= on the second and third stories are built of cigar-box -wood. Instead of cutting away the entire width of the box at the points -of attaching these bays, it is a better plan to leave a narrow strip -over the opening, as shown in Fig. 249. This will hold the walls -together, and will form a "beam" across the ceiling. The side edges of -the pieces that form the front of the bay must be slanted off so as to -fit at the proper angles, and the window openings must be cut carefully, -because the margin of wood around them is narrow and will split easily. -Fasten together the members of the bays, also the inside partitions, -with glue and brads. - -[Illustration: FIG. 249.--In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows, -leave a Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a "Beam."] - -=The Joints between the Units=, when piled one upon another, are -concealed by a band of wood 1/2 inch wide nailed around the front and -two ends of the bottom of the second and third story units (Figs. 247 -and 248). These bands should project about 1/4 inch below the bottoms of -these boxes, so as to set down over the boxes beneath. They must not -extend around the back of the boxes, and cannot be fastened to the -first story box, because they would interfere with placing the boxes -close together as in Fig. 244. - -The first story unit must be raised to the same floor level as the other -stories, however, and a thin board of the same thickness as the -projection of the strips on the second and third story units must be -nailed to its bottom to bring it to the same level (Fig. 246). - -[Illustration: FIGS. 250 and 251.--How the Removable Roof is -Constructed.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 252.--How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made.] - -=The Roof Construction= is shown in Fig. 250. Boards _H_ (Figs. 250 and -251) should be cut of the right size to form a projection of 1-1/2 -inches over the front and ends of the building, and the piece _I_ should -be cut to the proper shape and size to form an equal projection over the -bay windows. Strips _J_ and _K_ are 1 inch wide, and should be fastened -to boards _H_ so they will come exactly over the front and end walls -when the roof is set in place. Block _L_ should be cut of such a shape -and size that when nailed to strip _K_ its front edges will come -directly over the walls of the bay windows. A narrow strip nailed to the -under side of the roof boards, close against the walls, will conceal the -joint between the roof and top story and make a good finish molding. - -=The Chimney= is made of two blocks (_M_ and _N_, Fig. 252). Notch the -lower block to fit over strip _J_, and cut the cap block large enough to -project 1/8 inch all around. - -=The Windows.= Old photograph plates can be cut down to the proper sizes -for the window openings, but it will not cost much to have the -paint-shop man cut them out of new material, if you haven't any. The -glass should be just a trifle smaller than the openings. Fasten it in -place with narrow strips of cigar-box wood. Window sashes can be -indicated by striping the glass with black paint. - -=Make the Front Door= out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and set a piece -of glass in an opening cut about the size shown in Fig. 243. This door -may be hinged to open, but it is better to fasten it in the opening, -because small pieces are easily broken off their hinges. Fasten a small -block below the front door for a step (Fig. 243). - -=The Inside Doorways=, in the ends of the first story unit and in the -back of the second and third story units, may be fitted with pieces of -board that can be set in when the units are piled up in the form of the -building, but it is not necessary to make this provision. - -=The Interior Trim.= The door and window casings, picture moldings, -baseboards, and other trimming should be made out of strips of cigar-box -wood. Tack the strips in place with short brads. - -[Illustration: FIG. 253.--The Living-Room Mantel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 254.--Details of Mantel.] - -=A Fireplace= must be provided for the living-room, and one easily -constructed out of four pieces of wood is shown in Figs. 253 and 254. -Cut blocks _O_ and _P_ of the same thickness, and make the shelf piece -_Q_ of the proper size to project an equal distance over the front and -ends. Fasten the pieces together, then glue red paper to the wood, and -when this has dried mark off brick courses with a pencil. The joints may -be accentuated by striping with white or black paint. - -=Lighting Fixtures=, simple to make, are shown in two splendid forms in -Figures 255 and 257. Small brass screw-hooks such as are shown in Figure -256 can be purchased at any hardware store, and a couple of dozen of -these, a lead pencil, and a number of large beads, will furnish you with -enough material for making fixtures for every room in the apartment. - -You will see by Fig. 256 that the lighting fixture shown in Fig. 255 -consists of a screw-hook with its hooked end stuck through one of the -little brass plates removed from another screw-hook, and then pushed -into the hole in the end of a short piece of lead-pencil. Cut the pencil -end about 1/2 inch long, push out the piece of lead, and if necessary -enlarge the hole to accommodate the hook end. If the piece of pencil -comes apart where glued, re-glue it. Glue the little brass cap to the -top. Paint the pencil end white, to represent glass, and indicate metal -division strips, or _leading_, with black paint or ink. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 255-258.--Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make -Them.] - -The lighting fixture shown in Fig. 257 is made in the same way as the -other one, except that a bead instead of the pencil end is used for a -globe (Fig. 258). - -The fixture in Fig. 255 is better suited to the living-room and -dining-room, and for fastening each side of the front door; the fixture -in Fig. 257 is better for the other rooms. - -=Decorating.= Suggestions for decorating a doll-house are given in -Chapter XIV, but here are some additional ideas to suit the conditions -of the apartment. It is the modern practice to tint walls of apartments, -and the best plan is to cover the walls of each room with plain paper, -using a paper of a different color for each room. - -The dining-room should have a plate-rail on which to stand plates -(pictures of plates cut from advertisements and pasted upon cardboard), -and the walls below the plate-rail should be paneled with strips of -cigar-box wood for division strips (Fig. 244). - -=The Outside Walls= of the apartment building are supposedly brick; -therefore paint them a good red, brown, or yellow brick color, and paint -the roof cornice, and the horizontal bands between stories, white, as a -contrast. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE - - -The metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty when it is new, but -this new appearance does not last long after it has come into a -youngster's possession, for the pieces are very slender and delicate, -and thus easily broken. - -Wooden furniture is the most durable kind, and plain and simple pieces -will generally outlast the fancy ones. The designs illustrated in this -chapter make very substantial pieces, as there are no spindle legs or -fancy arms to break off. They follow the lines of the mission furniture, -that simple style used in the early American mission schools, and which -is to-day being extensively made in handsome pieces for the furnishings -of modern homes. You will find the - -=Miniature Mission Furniture=, illustrated and described in this -chapter, simple to make and something which is easy to sell, for there -is nothing like it at present upon the market. - -Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture, and -the various parts can be cut to the right shape and size with - -=A Scroll-saw.= Procure small brads and glue with which to fasten the -pieces together. - -=To Prepare the Cigar-boxes= for use, place them in a tub of boiling -water and let them remain there until the paper labels readily pull off. -Do not use a knife in removing the paper, as it is likely to roughen the -wood. The paper will come off by allowing it to soak long enough. When -the boxes are clean, set them in the sun to dry, after binding the -covers to the backs to prevent them from warping. Pull the boxes apart -when they are thoroughly dry, and throw out such pieces as have printing -upon them, for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if -used. - -In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that make the -furniture, the curved pieces have been drawn out carefully on page 177, -so that they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any -trouble, by the process of - -=Enlarging by Squares.= These drawings are shown one-quarter of their -full size (half their width and half their height). To enlarge them -procure a piece of cardboard nine by thirteen inches, or a little larger -than twice the size of the drawing each way, and divide it into squares -just twice the size of those on page 177. That will make sixteen squares -in the width of the cardboard and twenty-four in the length, each half -an inch square. In order to get the squares spaced equally, it is best -to lay off the points first with a ruler along the top, bottom, and two -sides of the sheet of cardboard, and then connect the points with the -ruler and a sharp lead-pencil. Then number the squares as in the -illustration, using the figures along the sides and letters across the -top and bottom of the sheet. - -With the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a simple matter to - -=Reproduce the Drawings= of Figs. 259 to 266 by locating the points of -the curves and corners of the pieces, as shown in the illustrations, in -corresponding positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet. The -curves may be drawn in by eye, after locating them with reference to -their surrounding squares, but the surest way of enlarging them -accurately is by laying off the points where the curve strikes each -horizontal and vertical line in the illustration, upon the enlarged -drawing. These points can then be connected with a curved line. - -Make all of the lines heavy so they can be distinguished from your guide -lines, and after carefully going over the drawing, comparing it with -that on page 177 to see that no mistake has been made in locating the -points in enlarging, cut the various pieces apart. These will give you - -=The Patterns= with which to mark out the pieces on the wood. - -We will first note the construction of - -=The Chairs= shown in Figs. 267 and 268. These are four and one-half -inches high, two inches wide, and an inch and one-half deep. Cut the -back for the chair in Fig. 267 four and three-eighths inches high and an -inch and three-quarters wide, the sides by the pattern in Fig. 259 and the -seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and three-quarters. With the -pieces cut out, fasten them together with brads and glue, placing the -seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch and one-half above -the base. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 259-266.--Patterns for Furniture.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 267. Chairs FIG. 268.] - -Cut the back for the other chair (Fig. 268) four and one-half inches -high by two inches wide, the seat an inch and a quarter by an inch and -three-quarters, and the sides an inch and three-eighths wide by two and -one-half high. To get the curve in the bottom edge of the side pieces, -use the pattern in Fig. 259. - -=The Settee= (Fig. 269) should have its sides cut by the pattern of Fig. -260. Make the back piece three and three-quarters inches wide and three -and one-quarter inches high, and the seat three and three-quarters -inches by an inch and one-half. Fasten the seat against the back an inch -and one-half above the base. - -[Illustration: FIG. 269.--A Settee.] - -=Tables= for the living-room, dining-room, bedroom, ball-room, and -nursery of a doll-house may be patterned after the designs of Figs. 270 -and 271. These should be two and one-half inches high to be of proper -proportion for the chairs. - -[Illustration: FIG. 270.--A Table.] - -The pieces necessary to make Fig. 270 are a top two inches square, two -sides an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches high, and a -shelf an inch and one-quarter square. Fasten the pieces together as in -the illustration, placing the shelf between the side pieces an inch from -the bottom. - -The other design (Fig. 271) will do nicely for - -=A Dining-room Table=, or table for the center of the living-room. The -top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide. Cut the -side pieces by the pattern in Fig. 261 and, after fastening them to the -under side of the table-top four inches apart, brace them with a strip -three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide, as shown in -Fig. 271. - -[Illustration: FIG. 271.--Another Design.] - -=A Side-board= similar to Fig. 272 should be made for the dining-room. -The pattern for the side pieces is shown in Fig. 262. After sawing these -out, cut a piece seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and -fasten the side pieces to the edges of it. The location of the shelves -can be obtained best by referring to Fig. 272 and the pattern in Fig. -262. Cut the bottom shelf (_A_ in Fig. 272) three inches long by an inch -and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side pieces half an inch above -the base (line 24 on pattern, Fig. 262). Make shelf _B_ three by one -inches and place it at line 22. _C_ should be three and three-quarters -inches long by an inch and one-half wide, with a small notch cut near -each end with your knife, to make it fit over the side pieces (see -illustration). Cut shelf _D_ three inches long by half an inch wide, -fastening it in place at line No. 17, _E_ three inches long by -seven-sixteenths of an inch wide, fastening it at line No. 15, and _F_ -three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide, fastening it at line -No. 13. The top shelf (_G_) is three and three-quarters inches long and -half an inch wide and is fastened to the tops of the side pieces as -shown in the drawing. - -The lower portion of the side-board is inclosed with two doors two -inches high by an inch and one-half wide. Small pieces of cloth may be -used for hinges, but it is better to use pins, running them through the -shelf above and below (_A_ and _C_, Fig. 272) into the doors. Stick the -pins near the edge of the doors and see that they are straight, so the -doors will open easily. A small mirror attached to the back between -shelves _C_ and _D_ will complete this piece of furniture. - -[Illustration: FIG. 272.--A Side-board.] - -=A Mirror= in a frame should be made for the living-room of the -doll-house. A neat and suitable design for one of these will be seen in -Fig. 273. For its construction cut two sides by means of the pattern in -Fig. 263, a piece five inches long by three inches wide for the back, -and a strip three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a -shelf. Fasten the sides to the edges of the back piece, and the shelf -between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base. Now -procure a mirror such as you can buy in a toy-shop for five or ten cents -(or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size will do very -nicely), and attach it to the center of the back. - -[Illustration: FIG. 273.--A Mirror.] - -=The Grandfather's Clock= (Fig. 274) makes an effective piece of -furniture for the hall or living-room, and is easily made. Figure 264 -shows the pattern for the front of this clock. The back is made the -same, with the omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for -the clock-face. Cut a block of wood two by two by three-quarters inches -to fit between the frames at the top. After nailing the pieces together, -procure a face from a toy watch, and fasten it in the opening made for -it in the front frame. A button suspended by means of a piece of thread -from a tack placed in the bottom of the block forms the pendulum. - -It will be unnecessary to give any suggestions for - -[Illustration: FIG. 274. A Grandfather's Clock.] - -=Kitchen Furniture=, such as chairs and tables, for these can also be -made out of cigar-box wood similar to the designs illustrated in this -chapter, with perhaps a few modifications which will make them simpler. - -Now for the making of some pieces of bedroom furniture. You will find in -Figs. 275 and 276 two designs that are easily carried out, one or both -of which may be used for - -=The Beds= of a doll-house. To make Fig. 275, cut the head and foot by -means of the pattern in Fig. 265, and cut the two sides by means of the -pattern in Fig. 266. After preparing these pieces and fastening them -together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 275), cut a few strips a -quarter of an inch wide for slats and fasten them between the sides of -the bed. It is advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from -being lost. - -The side pieces for the other bed (Fig. 276) are cut out with the same -pattern (Fig. 266). - -[Illustration: FIG. 275.--A Bed.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 276.--Another Design.] - -Make the head and foot pieces three by four and one-half inches, cutting -a piece two by an inch and one-quarter out of the top of each as shown -in the drawing (Fig. 276), and using the pattern of the other bed for -cutting the curve in the bottom edge. Nail the pieces together in their -proper places, after which cut some slats and fasten them in the bottom. - -=The Dresser= (Fig. 277) is made somewhat similar to the side-board. Cut -the sides by the same pattern (Fig. 262) and fasten them to the edges of -the back piece, which should be six and one-half inches high by three -inches wide. Cut shelf _A_ three by one and one-quarter inches, _B_ and -_C_ three by one and one-eighth, _D_ three by one and three-sixteenths, -and _E_ and _F_ one-half by one and one-quarter inches. Fasten shelf _A_ -between the sides at line No. 24 (see Fig. 262), _B_ at line No. 23, _C_ -at line No. 22, _D_ at line No. 21, and notch the ends of _E_ and _F_ to -fit over the side pieces at line No. 20. - -[Illustration: FIG. 277.--A Dresser.] - -Drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be made out of small -strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of cardboard, glued together. A small -mirror fastened in the position shown in the drawing will complete the -work upon this piece of furniture. - -=A Wash-stand= can be made for the bathroom and each of the bedrooms -similar to Fig. 278. The sides for this should be five inches high by an -inch and one-quarter wide, and the shelves one by three inches. Fasten -the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base, and the top -shelf at a height of two and one-half inches. When the stand has been -put together, fit a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter, -in holes made in the sides with a gimlet (see illustration). This forms -the towel-rack. Hang a small drapery over the lower portion of the -stand. - -[Illustration: FIG. 278.--A Wash-stand.] - -=Finishing.= When the pieces of furniture have been completed, they -should be rubbed down with emery-paper to remove the rough edges, and -also any rough places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes in -water. Then give the wood several coats of linseed-oil. This makes a -beautiful finish for this kind of wood, which may be improved by adding -a coat of wax. The little hearts may be painted upon the pieces as shown -in the illustration, with a small brush and red paint, or may be cut out -of red paper and glued to the wood. - -If desired, the bedroom furniture may be painted with white enamel. - - -OTHER CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE - -In Figs. 279 and 282 will be found some pieces of furniture that are -simpler to make than those just described, and although they may not be -so pretty, they present a very good appearance when neatly made. - -The author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy, and -found them suitable as presents, and something that was always easy to -sell. - -The cost of making a set amounts to but a few cents, cigar-boxes being -the principal material. They are also very quickly made, as the boxes -require but little cutting. - -[Illustration: FIG. 279.--A Doll's Folding-bed.] - -For the construction of - -=A Folding-bed=, such as is shown in Figs. 279 and 280, select two -cigar-boxes, one of which will fit inside the other. The smaller box -should be a little shorter than the inside opening of the larger box. - -[Illustration: FIG. 280.--Folding-bed (open).] - -[Illustration: FIG. 281.--Foot.] - -After removing the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the -larger one, as shown in Fig. 279, so that the bottom of the inner box is -flush with the edge of the outer box. Then drive a brad through both -boxes on each side, about three-quarters of an inch from the end as -shown at _A_ (Fig. 279). These brads should run through the outer box -into the bottom of the inner box, and should be driven in carefully so -as not to split the wood. The inner box should now fold down as shown in -Fig. 280, moving upon the brad pivots. Purchase a five or ten cent -mirror and fasten it to the front of the bed, after which cut two wooden -feet similar to Fig. 281 and glue the pegs on the ends of these in -gimlet holes made above the mirror. Finish the wood the same as -described for the other cigar-box furniture. - -[Illustration: FIG. 282.--Dresser Completed.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 283.--A Doll's Dresser.] - -=The Dresser= shown in Fig. 282 is made out of a box the same size as -the larger one used for the folding-bed. Saw the sides of the box in -half, crosswise, and remove the upper half and the end piece. Then nail -the end across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides. When this -has been done, divide up the lower portion of the box into compartments -as shown in the drawing (Fig. 283). This should have a small drapery -hung over it. The upper portion of the dresser should have a mirror -attached to it, and some lace draped over the top and sides will add -greatly to its appearance. - -All you will have to do in making - -=A Wardrobe= will be to fasten some small hooks inside of a cigar-box, -attach the cover with a strip of linen--the same way it was attached -before you soaked it off--and hang a mirror on the front. - -These pieces of furniture were designed for separate sets, and would not -do for doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters, unless -the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS - - -Cigar-boxes are splendid material for a variety of home-made toys. In -this chapter are shown some easily constructed wagons, a -Jack-in-the-box, a cradle, and several tables and chairs of a different -pattern from the doll furniture for which working drawings were given in -the preceding chapter. - -Get an assortment of shapes and sizes of boxes at a cigar store, and -prepare them for use as directed on page 175. Use 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch -brads, and glue, for fastening the pieces together. - -A scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp jack-knife should -be used where - -=Cutting= is necessary. Do not attempt to split the wood, as the grain -is seldom straight, but lay it down upon a board and _score_ it with a -knife in the way in which you would score a piece of cardboard; then -break it along the scored line, or continue cutting until the piece is -cut in two. If you use a saw, cut a little away from the outlines of the -work and then trim up with a knife and sandpaper. - -The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown in this chapter -were designed with the idea of saving as much cutting as possible, and -you will see by the illustrations that in many cases the boxes are not -altered. - -=The Express-wagon= shown in Fig. 284 is made out of a long flat box. -Cut down the sides at the front and construct a seat on top of the sides -as shown in Fig. 286. Cut the front wheels about 2-1/4 inches in -diameter and the rear wheels about 2-3/4 inches in diameter. If you -haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, you can mark out -the wheels with cups or glass tumblers. Cut the wooden axles as shown in -Fig. 286, making the front axle--for the smaller wheels--deeper than the -rear one, then fasten them to the wagon and nail the wheels to their -ends. Drive a tack into the front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it, -or, if you have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon, fasten a pair -of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown upon the two-wheel -cart. - -[Illustration: FIG. 286.--Cross-section of the Express-wagon.] - -=The Cart= in Fig. 285 is made out of a square flat box with its wheels -fastened to the center of the under side. Make the wheels about 2-3/4 -inches in diameter. - -[Illustration: FIG. 284. AN EXPRESS-WAGON.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 285. A CART.] - -=The Auto Delivery-wagon= (Figs. 287 and 288. See _Frontispiece_) -requires two boxes 8-1/2 inches long, 5 inches wide, and -2-1/2 inches deep. You will see by the illustrations that one box is -inverted upon the other. Before fastening them together, remove the two -ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the -front end for the _dashboard_), and cut 2 inches off the sides at the -front and an additional piece 1 inch by 1-3/4 inches from the sides of -the upper box for windows. Fasten the boxes together by nailing strips -to the ends of side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the -rear end of the wagon and hinge a drop _end-gate_ to the wagon-bed with -cloth strips. Support the end-gate with a cloth strap. Tack a curtain of -black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the -curtain, so that it may be fastened up in a roll, as shown in the -photograph. Make the wheels and axles like those of the express wagon, -but cut the front and rear wheels, also the two axles, of equal size. -Cut out a small steering-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod -inside of the dashboard. Make a seat and seat back, nail the back to the -seat, and then fasten the seat between the sides of the wagon just below -the windows. - -=A Jack-in-the-box= (Fig. 289) is a simpler toy to make than you might -imagine. The box should measure about 5-3/4 inches by 5-3/4 inches by 5 -inches. Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth; glue -one piece to the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the -outside. Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and below -it fasten a small hook on to the box; the hook may be bent from a short -piece of wire. - -A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's body, but if -you cannot get one of these it is a simple matter to make a spring. -Take a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about 10 feet in length and wind it -around a rolling-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2-1/2 -inches in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks upon a -piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the box (Fig. 290), then procure -a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of -the spring and to this sew the head. Make a cloth fool's cap to glue on -Jack's head, covering his hair entirely, and also a loose jacket to fit -over his spiral body; for these use any bright-colored cotton cloth that -will fall into folds easily. Tack the base of the spring to the bottom -of the box. - -[Illustration: FIG. 297. Leg of Dining-table.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 296. Pedestal of Center-table.] - -Make the seat for - -=The Round-seated Chair= shown in Fig. 291 2 inches in diameter, the -back 5 inches high, 2 inches wide at the top, and 1-1/4 inches wide at -the seat; cut the front leg 2-1/8 inches high by 1-1/4 inches wide. - -=The Round Center-table= (Fig. 292) should have a base built up of four -strips as shown in Fig. 296. Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter. -A saucer may be used with which to mark this out. - -Select a long flat box for - -=The Dining-table= shown in Fig. 293, and after making four built-up -legs as shown in Fig. 297 fasten them into the four corners of the box -table top with brads and glue. - -[Illustration: FIG. 295. A DOLL'S CRADLE.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 291. A ROUND-SEATED CHAIR.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 289. A JACK-IN-THE-BOX.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 292. A ROUND CENTER-TABLE.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 293.--A DINING-TABLE.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 290.--THE SKELETON OF THE JACK-IN-THE-BOX.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 294.--A SQUARE-SEATED CHAIR.] - -In making the little - -=Square-seated Chair= (Fig. 294), cut the seat about 2 inches wide by -2-1/4 inches deep, the front legs 2-1/8 inches high by 3/8 inch wide, -and the back legs 4-1/2 inches high by 3/8 inch wide. Brace the legs and -back with crosspieces, and you will have a very firm and artistic -dining-room chair. - -Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2-1/4 inches in size for -making - -=The Doll's Cradle= shown in Fig. 295. Cut the two rockers by the -pattern in Fig. 298 and fasten them to the bottom of the box 1 inch from -the ends. Use the rim of a breakfast plate in drawing the arc of the -rockers; then draw the rounded ends, being careful to get them alike. -Saw out the rockers very particularly so as not to split off the ends. -Fasten the pieces to the cradle box with brads driven through the box -bottom into their top edge. - -[Illustration: FIG. 298.--Pattern for Cradle Rockers.] - -After the cigar-box toys have been made, rub down the wood with fine -sandpaper. Then drive all nail-heads below the surface, fill up the -holes with putty stained to match the wood as nearly as possible, and -finish with two coats of boiled linseed-oil. Apply the oil with a rag, -then wipe off all surplus oil with a dry cloth. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS - - -All that is required for making the little toys shown in this chapter -are spools, cardboard, paper, a straight-grained stick out of which to -cut pegs, some tacks, pins, and glue. - -[Illustration: FIG. 299.--Doll Carriage.] - -Did you ever see a better model of - -=A Baby Carriage= than that shown in Fig. 299, with its rounded ends, -arched bottom, and adjustable hood? It is easy to make. - -Figure 300 shows the details for constructing the carriage body. Cut -four wooden pegs to fit loosely in the holes of four spools of equal -size, and make them of the right length so when slipped into the holes -their ends will project about 1/4 inch beyond the spool ends. Then cut -the bottom strip _B_ 5 inches long by the width of the spools, bend it -slightly as shown, to give a curve to the carriage bottom, and tack the -ends of the strip to two of the spools (_A_). - -[Illustration: FIGS. 300-302.--Details of Doll Carriage.] - -The sides _C_ are of cardboard and should be 1-1/2 inches wide at the -widest point, by the length of the carriage body. Punch holes through -these side pieces in the right places for the ends of the pegs in spools -_A_ to stick through. - -Before fastening the side pieces to spools _A_, you must attach the -wheels (Figs. 301 and 302). Cut the cardboard uprights _D_ 3-1/2 inches -long and 1/2 inch wide; then after cutting holes through each near the -ends, for the spool pegs to slip through, cut down the width between the -holes to about 1/4 inch (Fig. 302). Slip the lower ends of uprights _D_ -over the pegs in spool wheels _E_, then the upper ends over the pegs in -spools _A_. Glue the upper ends to the ends of spools _A_, then slip the -carriage sides _C_ over the pegs of spools _A_, and glue them in place. - -[Illustration: FIG. 303.--Baby Carriage Hood.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 304.--Diagram of Hood.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 305.--Carriage Handles.] - -The carriage hood (Fig. 303) is made of a piece of stiff paper about -4-1/2 inches square (Fig. 304), slashed in three places along two -opposite edges for a distance of about 1-1/2 inches, and then folded -over as indicated by dotted lines. Bring together the ends of the -slashed edges of the piece of paper, as shown in Fig. 303, coat them -with glue, and press together until the glue has dried. Punch a hole -through each side of the top, as shown, for the projecting ends of the -spool peg to slip through. - -The carriage handle is made of two cardboard strips (_F_, Fig. 305), and -a match (_G_). Stick the match through holes made near the ends of -strips F, and glue the lower ends of the strips to the inside face of -the sides (Fig. 299). This completes the carriage. - -[Illustration: FIG. 306.--The Two-wheel Cart. -FIG. 307-309.--Details of Cart.] - -=The Two-wheel Cart= (Fig. 306) is made of a small box cover, and one of -the spools on which crochet-cotton comes. Prepare a bent piece of -cardboard like that shown in Fig. 308, with ends _A_ turned down at the -proper points so there will be only room enough between them for the -spool to turn freely. Punch a hole through each turned down end for a -stick axle to run through. - -[Illustration: FIG. 310.--Merry-go-round.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 311.--Teeter.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 312.--Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and -Teeter.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 313.--Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and -Teeter.] - -Then cut two slots through the box cover the same distance apart as ends -_A_ (Fig. 307), centering the pair both crosswise and lengthwise of the -cover, and stick ends _A_ through the slots and glue portion _B_ to the -cover. Cut the wheel axle enough smaller than the spool hole so the -spool will turn easily, then push it through the hole in the spool and -the holes in ends _A_. - -Glue the end of a cardboard strip to the under side of the cover for a -shaft. - -=The Toy Merry-go-round= in Fig. 310 consists of a strip of heavy -cardboard turned up at its ends (Fig. 312), tacked at its center to the -end of a stick cut small enough to turn easily in the hole in a spool. - -The spool slipped over the stick is grasped by the right hand, and the -left hand starts the merry-go-round and keeps it in motion by twirling -the stick to which the cardboard strip is fastened. - -The boy and girl riders, shown in Fig. 313 are of the right size so you -can trace them off upon a piece of tracing-paper and then transfer to -cardboard. After cutting them out of the cardboard, color both sides -with crayons or water-colors, and glue them to the turned-up ends of the -cardboard strip. - -[Illustration: FIG. 314.--Doll Swing.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 315.--Detail of Swing.] - -=The Teeter-Board= (Fig. 311) is made of the same kind of a strip as -that used for the merry-go-round (Fig. 312). Tack this strip at its -center to the side of a spool, and mount the spool in a cardboard frame -in the same way that the spool wheels of the cart are mounted (Figs. -308 and 309); but make the peg axle to fit tight in the spool hole. -Prepare a boy and girl rider similar to those made for the -merry-go-round (Fig. 313). - -The teeter is operated by turning the end of the spool axle first one -way then the other. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 316 and 317.--Details of Swing Seat.] - -=The Doll Swing= shown in Fig. 314 has a cardboard base, with two spools -fastened to it 4 inches apart to support the framework. Tack the base to -the ends of the spools. The framework uprights are tightly rolled tubes -of paper 10 or 12 inches long, and the top crosspiece is another paper -tube 4 inches long. Stick the lower ends of the uprights into the spool -holes; then fasten the crosspiece to their tops by running pins through -it and into the upright ends (Fig. 315), and then lashing the -connections with thread as shown in Fig. 314. - -[Illustration: FIG. 318.--Sofa.] - -The swing seat is made of a spool with a cardboard back fastened to it -(Figs. 316 and 317). Suspend the spool with thread from the top of the -swing crosspiece. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 319-321.--Details of Sofa.] - -=A Sofa= with arm rolls, like that shown in Fig. 318, is a good example -of what can be made in spool-and-cardboard doll furniture. Prepare the -seat and back out of a single piece of cardboard, curving the top and -ends of the back as shown, and making the width of the seat the same as -the length of the spool arms. Fasten the spools by means of a strip of -paper bent over them as shown in Fig. 320, and glued to the seat. Use -small silk-thread spools (Fig. 321) for feet, and glue them to the seat -at the four corners. - -[Illustration: FIG. 322.--Chair.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 323.--Square Center-table.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 324.--Round Center-table.] - -=The Chair= (Fig. 322) has a seat and back made out of a single piece -of cardboard, with one-third of its length bent out for the seat. Glue -the seat to a spool base. - -=The Square Center-table= (Fig. 323) has a crochet-cotton spool -pedestal, and its top is a square piece of cardboard. Glue the spool to -the exact center of the top. - -=The Round Center-table= (Fig. 324) is made similarly. Use the rim of a -cup for marking out the circular top. - -With a little ingenuity you will be able to devise a great many other -pieces of doll furniture, and other toys as well. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX - - -Who wants to play at being Uncle Sam, and have a postal system right in -the house, or out on the front porch where it will be convenient for the -children next door to enjoy it, too? Every small boy and girl loves to -play postman, collect mail from the toy mail-box, cancel the stamps, -sort out the letters into the proper routes, and then deliver them to -those whom they are addressed to. - -The mail-box shown in Figs. 325 and 326 is easily made, and with - -=The Working Material= on hand can be completed in an evening. Two -sheets of cardboard, a piece of muslin, some silver paper or paint, a -piece of tape about 2 yards long, and a needle and thread, are required. -The cardboard should be stiff enough to hold its shape, and yet be of -light enough weight to cut and fold easily. Sheets 22 inches by 28 -inches can be bought at any printing-shop, and at some stationery -stores, and will not cost more than 10 cents a sheet at the most. If you -have some large cardboard boxes, however, you can use them instead by so -laying out the different parts that the corners of the boxes will come -in the right places for the corners of the mail-box. - -[Illustration: FIG. 327.--Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of -Mail-box.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 328.--Diagram for Making Top.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 329.--Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-Drop.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 330.--Diagram for Making Front Piece of -Letter-Drop.] - -Figure 327 shows the diagrams for - -=Making the Sides, Ends, and Bottom= of the mail-box, with the -dimensions of every portion marked upon them. Use a ruler with which to -guide your pencil in drawing the straight lines, and a compass or the -rim of a 9-inch plate for describing the arcs for the round tops of the -end pieces. You will see that the front, one end, and the bottom are -made in one piece, and that the back, other end, and a second bottom (to -make that portion doubly strong) are cut from another piece. - -[Illustration: FIG. 325.--THE HOME-MADE MAIL-BOX STRAPPED TO THE FACE OF -A DOOR.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 326.--THE HOME-MADE MAIL-BOX STRAPPED TO A CHAIR BACK.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 331.--The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be -put Together.] - -The dotted lines upon the diagram indicate where the cardboard should be -folded. Figure 331 shows the sides, ends, and bottom folded ready to be -put together. Turn the flaps inside, and glue them to the end pieces, -and glue the two bottom pieces together; also sew the cardboard with a -double thread to make the joining doubly secure. - -[Illustration: FIG. 332.--Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back -of Letter-Drop.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 333.--Ends of Letter-Drop.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 334.--Front of Letter-Drop.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 335.--Top, with Letter-Drop Completed.] - -=The Top of the Box=--the diagram for the cutting of which is shown in -Fig. 328--has a piece 3 by 7 inches cut out on all but one long side, -and bent up to form the top of - -=The Letter-Drop= (Fig. 332). The diagram for the ends of the -letter-drop is shown in Fig. 329, and for the front in Fig. 330; Fig. -333 shows how cloth flaps are glued to the end piece; and Fig. 335 -shows how the end pieces are fastened to the top of the box by means of -these flaps. Glue a strip of cloth to each side of the lower edge of the -letter-drop front piece for hinges (Fig. 334), and glue one to the -inside and the other to the outside of the top of the box (Fig. 335). -Attach rubber-bands to the front and ends of the drop to make it spring -shut. Glue and sew the top of the box to the flaps provided on the front -and back for the purpose. - -[Illustration: FIG. 336.--Diagram for Making Collection-drop.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 337.--How the Collection-drop is Folded.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 338.--The Collection-drop Hinged in Place.] - -Figure 336 shows the diagram for - -=The Collection-drop=, and Fig. 337 how it looks folded. Hinge the drop -to the box with a cloth strip (Fig. 338). - -=Reinforcement.= When the work has been finished thus far, cut a number -of strips of muslin 1 inch wide and reinforce the corners with them. -Then take the 2-yard length of tape, which you procured, and sew it to -the back of the box to hang it up by. - -=Covering the Box.= Silver paper makes the nicest finish for the -mail-box, and can be bought of a stationer; but you may paint the -cardboard with aluminum radiator paint instead if you prefer. If you use -silver paper, stick it on with flour paste. - -After the paper or paint has dried, paste - -=A Collection Schedule Card= upon the front of the box. You will need, -also, to - -=Letter= the words, "Pull Down," "Letters," etc., where they are shown -in the illustrations. - -=Hang up the Mail-box= by means of its tape strap, within easy reach, -upon the face of a door (Fig. 325), or to the back of a chair (Fig. -326). - -=For a Mail-bag= use a school-book bag, or make one just like a real -postman's out of brown denim or cambric. Letter "U. S. Mail" upon the -bag with black paint, or cut the letters from black or white muslin and -glue them in place. Provide a long strap to reach over the postman's -shoulder. - -=The Way to Play Post-Office= is for several children to attend to the -writing of letters and wrapping of parcels, another to play mail clerk, -who puts the post-marks on the mail and sorts it out into "routes" and -another to play postman. - -Canceled stamps from old letters may be re-used on the play letters, and -a rubber-stamp dater such as they sell at the stationer's for 10 cents -may be used for printing the post-marks. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE - - -[Illustration: FIG. 339.--The Complete Reflectoscope.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 340.--Detail of Ventilator Top.] - -This reflecting lantern, shown completed in Fig. 339, is more magical in -its operation than a magic-lantern is, because, instead of projecting -through transparent slides, it reflects opaque pictures. That makes it -possible to use magazine and newspaper pictures, post cards, and -photograph prints. You may reflect a greatly enlarged picture of the -movements of your watch, and by placing your face against the opening in -the reflectoscope, you may show a view of your mouth opening and -closing, giant size. The ease with which slides are obtained makes this -a desirable lantern to own. - -[Illustration: FIG. 341.--Plan of Reflectoscope.] - -=The Material.= You must get a box about 10 by 10 by 20 inches in size -for the case of the reflectoscope, two oil-lamps, or two 16 or 32 -candle-power electric lamps with the parts necessary for connecting them -to the electric lighting circuit, three 1-lb. baking-powder cans and two -tomato cans, two pieces of tin about 6 by 10 inches in size, and a lens -from a camera, field glass, opera glass, magic-lantern or bicycle-lamp. - -The bottom of the box will be the front of the reflectoscope. - -[Illustration: FIG. 342.--Cross-section of Reflectoscope.] - -=Cut the Lens Opening= through this, at the center of its length, and a -trifle above the center of its width. Make the hole a trifle larger than -the lens. - -=Cut Ventilator Holes= 3 inches in diameter through the uppermost side -of the box, near to the ends and bottom. - -Figures 341 and 342 show - -=The Interior Arrangement= of the reflectoscope. Place the lamps in the -corners of the box, next to the front, and tack in back of them the -pieces of tin for reflectors (_A_, Figs. 341 and 342). Bend the -reflectors to the curve shown. - -=If Oil Lamps are Used=, their tops will project through the ventilation -holes, as shown in Fig. 342. These openings must be inclosed with - -=A Hood which will Conceal the Light=, yet allow the heat to escape. The -most satisfactory arrangement is that shown in Figs. 339 and 342. A -baking-powder can with its bottom removed (_B_) is slipped over the lamp -chimney and fitted into the ventilation hole; then a tomato-can (_C_) is -inverted over the top of the can and fastened in the slotted ends of -three wooden peg stilts (_D_, Fig. 340), and the pegs are fitted into -holes made in the top of the box (Figs. 339 and 342). Fasten the can in -the slots of the stilts with tacks (Fig. 340). - -=If Electric Light is Used=, the hooded ventilators may be omitted. Any -boy who understands the wiring of electric-lamp sockets, plugs, and -drop-cord will know how to wire up the reflectoscope. - -Mount the Lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket (Fig. 343). If you use a -can, remove the bottom. If the lens is smaller in diameter, make a band -of cardboard strips to fit around the edge, as shown in Fig. 344, and -glue these strips to the inside of the can or mailing-tube. The lens -jacket should fit loosely enough in the reflectoscope box opening so it -will slide back and forth for focusing. Make a tin collar to fit around -the jacket, and tack it to the front of the box, to prevent light from -escaping (Fig. 339). - -Before putting on the back of the reflectoscope box, - -=Putty up all Cracks= between the boards in the top and front, to make -the box light-tight; then - -=Paint the Inside of the Box= and the cover boards with lamp-black -thinned with turpentine, so there will be no reflections other than -those produced by the lamp reflectors and the picture. - -[Illustration: FIGS. 343 and 344.--Details of Lens Mounting.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 345.--View of Back of Reflectoscope.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 346.--Detail of Post Card Holder.] - -=Nail the Back Boards in Place=, leaving an opening about 7 inches -square directly opposite the lens. Cut a piece of board to fit this -opening (_E_, Fig. 345) for - -=The Picture Holder=, and hinge it in place. A frame for post cards to -slide in should be fastened to the picture holder, as shown in Fig. 346. -First nail strips _F_ to board _E_, then tack strips _G_ to them so -their edges project over strips _F_. A little wooden button (_H_, Fig. -345) will fasten the holder board shut while each picture is being -projected. - -=The Lens Reverses Pictures= in projecting them, and in order to have -them projected right-side up on the screen it is necessary to slip them -into the holder frame upside down. - -=Adjustments.= After you have built your reflectoscope, you may find it -does not throw sharply-defined images upon your projection screen. In -that case you must readjust the focus of the lens, the curve of the lamp -reflectors, and the distance between the lens and the projection screen, -until the best possible results are obtained. Inasmuch as the positions -will vary with different lenses, it is impossible for me to give any -hard and fast measurements. You will have to determine the distances -yourself. - -The stronger the light, the brighter the projected image will be; -therefore, use the strongest light you can get, and place the lantern -not more than five feet away from the screen. - -Unless you use an anastigmat lens such as the better grade of cameras -are fitted with, you will discover that the corners of pictures are -indistinct when you have brought the centers to a sharp focus. This -indistinctness can be corrected to a great extent by blocking out the -holder to curve the post cards and other pictures so that the ends are -closer to the lens than the center is. - - - - -INDEX - - - A - - Airships," clockwork "flying, 102. - - Animal targets for toy shooting gallery, 142. - - Apartment building, doll, 165. - - Automobile, clockwork, 104. - - Automobile delivery wagon, clockwork, 112; - cigar-box, 192. - - - B - - Baby carriage, doll, 196. - - Ballast, toy elevator, 63. - - Balusters, doll-house stairway, 154. - - Battery, a bi-chromate of potash, 135. - - Bead portieres, doll-house, 157. - - Beds, doll-house, 183, 187. - - Bi-chromate battery fluid, 136. - - Boat, toy motor-, 33. - - Box-kite, 12. - - Bridle, Malay kite, 12; - box-kite, 16. - - Buzz-saw whirligig, 71. - - - C - - Cables, toy elevator, 61, 69; - electro-magnet derrick, 123. - - Cardboard toys, 196. - - Carpets, doll-house, 157. - - Carriage, doll baby, 196. - - Cars, toy railway, 50; - gondola, 52; - street, 52; - other forms of, 56; - elevator, 60, 68, 150; - Ferris wheel, 99. - - Cart, cigar-box, 192; - cardboard, 199. - - Chairs, cigar-box, 176, 194, 195; - cardboard, 203. - - Chauffeur for clockwork automobile, 111. - - Cigar-boxes, to prepare, for use, 175. - - Cigar-box toys, 191. - - Clock, a grandfather's, 182. - - Clock wheel top, 81. - - Clockwork automobile, 104. - - Clockwork automobile delivery wagon, 112. - - Clockwork Ferris wheel, 96. - - Clockwork "flying airships," 102. - - Clockwork merry-go-round, 89. - - Clockwork motors, 89, 97; - increasing speed of, 103. - - Clockwork railway, 116. - - Clockwork toys, 88. - - Clog-dancer, toy, 72. - - Control, toy elevator, 65. - - Cosey-corner, doll-house, 158. - - Counter-balance, 61, 69. - - Cradle, doll's, 195. - - Cricket-rattle, 75. - - Curtains, doll-house, 157. - - - D - - Decorating, doll-house, 156; - doll apartment, 173. - - Delivery-wagon, clockwork automobile, 112; - cigar-box, 192. - - Derrick, electro-magnet, 117. - - Doll apartment building, 165. - - Doll-house, 145; - furnishing the, 156. - - Dresser, doll, 185, 189. - - - E - - Egg-beater motor-winder, 31. - - Electrical toys, 117. - - Electric motor truck, toy, 132. - - Electro-magnet, 118. - - Electro-magnet derrick, 117. - - Elevator, model aeroplane, 25. - - Elevators, toy, 59. - - Elevator, toy office building, 59; - an outdoor, 67; - doll-house, 148. - - Enlarging by squares, 175. - - Express-wagon, cigar-box, 192. - - - F - - Feed-hoist, toy stable, 163. - - Feed-troughs, toy stable, 162. - - Ferris wheel, clockwork, 96. - - Fin, model aeroplane, 26. - - Fireplace, doll apartment, 171. - - Fixtures, doll apartment lighting, 171. - - Floors, toy office building, 59; - hardwood, for doll-house, 157. - - "Flying airships," clockwork, 102. - - Flying-line for kites, 12. - - Folding-bed, doll, 187. - - Furniture, cigar-box, 174, 194; - cardboard, 203. - - Fuselage, model aeroplane, 22. - - - G - - Gable-ends, doll-house, 151; - toy stable, 161. - - Garage, toy (_see_ Stable). - - Gondola car, 52. - - Grandfather's clock, 182. - - Guides, toy elevator, 61, 69, 150. - - - H - - Hand-rail, doll-house stairway, 153. - - Horses for merry-go-round, cardboard, 86, 92. - - House, doll-, 145; - furnishing the doll-, 156; - doll apartment, 165; - furniture for doll-, 174, 194, 203. - - - I - - Induction-coil, 126. - - Interrupter, shocking-machine, 129. - - - J - - Jack-in-the-box, cigar-box, 193. - - Jumping-jack, 74. - - Jumping-jack operated by windmill, 7. - - - K - - Kite, a Malay, 9; - a box-, 12. - - Kite-reel, a hand, 17; - a body, 19. - - - L - - Launching a model aeroplane, 31. - - Lighting fixtures, doll apartment, 171. - - - M - - Magnet, electro-, 118. - - Mail-bag, toy, 209. - - Mail-box, toy, 205. - - Malay kite, 9. - - Mantel, doll apartment, 171. - - Mechanical toys, 71. - - Merry-go-round, top, 85; - clockwork, 89; - cardboard, 201. - - Mirror, doll-house, 181. - - Mission furniture, doll, 174. - - Model aeroplane, 21; - propellers for, 27; - motors for, 29; - motor-winder for, 31; - launching a, 31. - - Motor-boat, toy, 33. - - Motors, clockwork, 89, 97; - increasing speed of, 103. - - Motors, model aeroplane, 29; - winder for, 31. - - Motors, water-(_see_ Water-motor). - - Motor, toy motor-boat, 37. - - Motor truck, toy electric, 132. - - Motor-winder, egg-beater, 31. - - - N - - Newel-post, doll-house stairway, 153. - - - O - - Office building elevator, toy, 59. - - - P - - Partitions, toy office building, 60; - doll-house, 145; - stable stall, 162. - - Pictures, doll-house, 158. - - Pinion-wheel windmill, 2. - - Pinwheel, a paper, 1. - - Pistol, toy, card-shooting, 143. - - Planes, model aeroplane, 24. - - Portieres, doll-house, 157. - - Post-office with mail-box, to play, 209. - - Primary coil, induction-coil, 127. - - Propeller-shaft, model aeroplane, 29; - toy motor-boat, 35. - - Propellers, model aeroplane, 27. - - Propeller, toy motor-boat, 35. - - Pulley-wheel, 42, 45, 62, 151. - - - R - - Race-track, spinning-top, 82. - - Railway, toy, 47; - trolley-line for, 47; - power for, 49; - tracks for, 50; - cars for, 50; - gondola car for, 52; - street car for, 52; - other cars for, 56; - operation of, 56; - station for, 57; - clockwork, 116. - - Rattle, cricket, 75. - - Reel, a hand kite-, 17; - a body kite-, 19. - - Reflectoscope, 210. - - Riders for merry-go-round, 86, 94. - - Risers, doll-house stairway, 153. - - Rugs, doll-house, 157. - - Rug-tack top, 82. - - - S - - Secondary-coil, induction-coil, 127. - - Settee, doll, 178. - - Shocking machine, 124. - - Shoe-polish can top, 83. - - Shooting gallery, toy, 140. - - Side-board, doll, 180. - - Sleighs for merry-go-round, cardboard, 93. - - Sofa, doll, 203. - - Spinning-top race-track, 82. - - Spiral top, 85. - - Spool and cardboard toys, 196. - - Spool top, 82. - - Stable, toy, 160. - - Stairway for doll-house, 152, 154. - - Station for toy railway, 57. - - Straw portieres, doll-house, 158. - - Street car, toy, 52. - - Swing, doll, 202. - - Switch, electro-magnet derrick, 121. - - - T - - Tables, cigar-box, 179, 180, 194; - cardboard, 204. - - Tack top, 82. - - Targets, toy shooting gallery, 142. - - Teeter-board, 201. - - Thrust bearings, 23, 35. - - Top, clockwork, 81; - rug-tack, 82; - spool, 82; - spinning, race-track, 82; - shoe-polish can, 83; - spiral, 85; - merry-go-round, 85. - - Tops, 79. - - Track, spinning-top race, 82. - - Tracks, toy railway, 50. - - Treads, doll-house stairway, 153. - - Trolley-line, toy railway, 47. - - Troughs, toy stable feed-, 162. - - Truck, toy electric motor, 132. - - Turtle toy, 76. - - - V - - Varnish-can water-motor, 38. - - - W - - Wagon, cigar-box express-, 192. - - Wardrobe, doll, 190. - - Wash-stand, doll, 186. - - Water-motor, a varnish-can, 38; - another form of, 42. - - Wheel, clockwork Ferris, 96. - - Wheel, water-motor, 39, 43. - - Whirligig, a buzz-saw, 71. - - Winder, model aeroplane motor-, 31. - - Windlass, electro-magnet derrick, 123. - - Windmill, a paper, 1; - a pinion-wheel, 2; - a four-blade, 4; - an eight-blade, 5; - jumping-Jack operated by a, 7. - - Window-shades, doll-house, 157. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, by A. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - diff --git a/41669-8.zip b/41669-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e80108f..0000000 --- a/41669-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/41669-h.zip b/41669-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5ea0f1f..0000000 --- a/41669-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/41669-h/41669-h.htm b/41669-h/41669-h.htm index 14a768e..4a181c0 100644 --- a/41669-h/41669-h.htm +++ b/41669-h/41669-h.htm @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> @@ -117,50 +117,7 @@ sup, sub {font-size:0.7em;} </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, by A. Neely Hall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys - Wooden and Cardboard Toys, Mechanical and Electric Toys - -Author: A. Neely Hall - -Illustrator: Tom P. Hall - -Release Date: December 20, 2012 [EBook #41669] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Matthias Grammel and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41669 ***</div> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_c" id="Page_c"></a></span></p> @@ -646,7 +603,7 @@ A. N. H.<br /> <tr> <td class="left"><span class="smcap"> The Walls and Ceiling—Hardwood Floors—Carpets—Rugs—Window-shades—Lace - Curtains—Portières—Pictures—A Cosey-corner—Buying + Curtains—Portières—Pictures—A Cosey-corner—Buying Furnishings—Making Furniture.</span> </td> </tr> @@ -7028,18 +6985,18 @@ made out of No. 12 wire, cut in lengths to fit the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to hang upon.</p> -<p><b>Handsome Portières</b> for the doorways can be made with +<p><b>Handsome Portières</b> for the doorways can be made with beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens. For the</p> -<p><b>Bead Portières</b>, cut threads as long as the height of the +<p><b>Bead Portières</b>, cut threads as long as the height of the door and string the beads upon them, alternating the colors in such a way as to produce patterns. Then tie <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> the strings together to a piece of wire the width of the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening. The</p> -<p><b>Straw Portières</b> are made similarly.</p> +<p><b>Straw Portières</b> are made similarly.</p> <p>From magazine illustrations you can select</p> @@ -9382,383 +9339,6 @@ Window-shades, doll-house, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.<br /> <br /> <br /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, by A. 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