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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Reminiscences of Travel in Australia,
+America, and Egypt, by Richard Tangye
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt
+
+
+Author: Richard Tangye
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2012  [eBook #41639]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN
+AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***
+
+
+This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
+
+                 [Picture: Frontispiece. Richard Tangye]
+
+
+
+
+
+                              REMINISCENCES
+                                    OF
+                                  TRAVEL
+                                    IN
+                      AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT.
+
+
+                           [Picture: Vignette]
+
+                                    BY
+                             RICHARD TANGYE.
+
+                 _WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. C. MOUNTFORT_.
+
+                                 London:
+               SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON.
+                   CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
+
+                                  1883.
+
+                         (_All rights reserved_.)
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                PRINTED BY
+
+                      WRIGHT, DAIN, PEYTON, AND CO.,
+
+                     AT THE HERALD PRESS, BIRMINGHAM.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Having made several voyages to Australia, I have often been asked how I
+managed to relieve the monotony of so long a period on the water.  I have
+never felt this monotony, simply because on each occasion I have set
+myself something to do.
+
+In Mr. Trevelyan’s “Life of Lord Macaulay” it is stated that when
+returning from India, that statesman set himself the task of mastering
+the German language, and accomplished it during the voyage.  I did not
+attempt anything so ambitious, but during my last voyage I occupied the
+time in writing the following pages; and as they were written under many
+difficulties, I feel I may confidently rely upon the indulgence of those
+who may do me the honour of reading them.
+
+                                                                     R. T.
+
+_Gilbertstone_, _1883_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                  [Picture: The Rabbit and the Thistle]
+
+                                                                 PAGE.
+CHAPTER I.—_At Sea_:—Early Troubles—Cabin’d, Cribb’d,                1
+Confin’d—Travelling Companions—“Ordered Abroad by the
+Doctor”—“In the Bay o’ Biscay O”—Ship Stewards—Racing
+under Difficulties—A Selfish Amusement—Musical
+Discords—The Ship’s Newspaper—Our Ship goes too Fast—Why
+Ship Captains are Tories—Ixion goes Mad—Burial at Sea—The
+Parson “quite at Sea”—A Congregation Guaranteed—Look Out
+for Sharks!—“Let the Soup pass, Sir”—The “Scarlet Lady.”
+CHAPTER II.—_At Sea_:—“Working off the Dead Horse”—“Poor            21
+Old Man!”—“May your Shadow never Grow Less!”—The “Blatant
+Beast”—The “Generous” Gambler—A Fiery Celt—The “Classic”
+Dolphin—“Get your Letters Ready”—“A Man of Peace
+now”—Mixing his Degrees—Good enough for the
+Colonies!—“Now Fridolin was a Pious Youth”—A Bootless
+Errand—Cross Signals—Tristan d’Acunha—A Parson
+Wanted—“The Rolling Forties”—A Hot January Morning.
+CHAPTER III.—_In Victoria_:—The Black Death in                      40
+Melbourne—Melbourne—Education—A Caustic Smile—“All Work
+and no Play”—“A New Way to Pay Old Debts”—“Happy Land” in
+Victoria—“Hush! prohibited”—An Opening for
+“Gentlemen”—“Hallelujah Claim”—The Black Spur—A
+“Soafler”—Comforting the Widow—Hard
+Fare—Pioneering—Lovely Marysville—The Five Deadly
+Poisons—Back to Melbourne.
+CHAPTER IV.—_In Tasmania_:—Cologn–ial Smells—Launceston—A           60
+Tonsorial Palace—Harvest in February—The Land of
+Snakes—Der Dichter spricht—“The Dangers of the
+Seas”—“Sweet Vale of Avoca”—A Charming Village—Where’s
+Falmouth?—A Lonely Burying-place—A Narrow
+Escape—Snakes!—“Scotched, but not Killed”—“Acres many,
+People few”—The Rabbit and the Thistle—Breaking the
+Pledge—Hobart the Beautiful—Jericho to Jerusalem via
+Bagdad—Farewell, Tasmania.
+CHAPTER V.—_In New South Wales_:—Off to Sydney—“What d’ye           80
+think of our Harbour?”—A “Southerly Buster”—Oysters on
+Trees—A rather particular Couple—Mount Victoria—A
+Tremendous Leap—A wicked Parrot—“Bail up”—The Laughing
+Jackass—Let Sleeping Bull-dogs Lie—An Election in
+Sydney—Beer and Bible—Through Wagga-Wagga—In the
+Bush—Track-making—Sighing for Old England—“Tommy”—Albury
+and Wodonga, a contrast—The Bush-rangers.
+CHAPTER VI.—_In Australia_:—Victoria, Protection—The Dog           101
+subsisting on its own Tail—Cabby over-rides the
+Tramway—His Profit was not “quite enough”—Protection with
+a Vengeance—“Quite right to Cheat the Government”—Free
+Trade, New South Wales—A Genuine “Native Industry”—How
+Population is attracted—A Prosperous Colony—Demand for
+Agricultural Labourers—“Young Australia.”
+CHAPTER VII.—_On the Pacific_:—Homeward Bound—Ten Months’          113
+Drought—Auckland—Fiji—Kandavu Harbour—A Fearful
+Voice—Sharks and Dark Skins—Dropping a Day—A Colonial
+Doctor—Man Overboard—Honolulu—A Square Meal—Dressmaking
+in Honolulu—A “Brownie”—“Yes, for a Dollar”—A Plague of
+Centipedes—A Bilious “Down-Easter”—Jefferson Brick,
+Junior—“Mister”—“A Personal Favour!”—Through “The Golden
+Gate”—Earning a Cent anyway.
+CHAPTER VIII.—_In America_:—San Francisco—The Palace               135
+Hotel—Chinese Washermen—The National Habit—Flats and
+Sharps—Qualifications for a State Governor—John Chinaman
+in California—The Missing Link—Little Min-ne, a Chinese
+Bride—Am claimed as a Chinaman—Pacific Sea-Lions—The last
+of “Mister”—Across America—A Magnificent Country—The
+Noble Red Man—A Long Arm and Quick Eye—John Bright—A
+Tremendous Crash—The Trapper’s Story—How Taurus “Meets
+the Train”—The Alkali Plains—Salt Lake City—“I guess I’ll
+take your Gold”—Rock Groups—“No, Sah!” said Sambo.
+CHAPTER IX.—_In America_:—“Eat and be                              160
+satisfied”—Chicago—Niagara—Ruthless Desecration—“He must
+raise his Salary”—The “American Language”—The Hudson—The
+Celestial Harmonies—A Dealer in Justice—“Rich, but
+Honest”—“Dear” America—Baggage
+Arrangements—Philadelphia—The Centennial Exhibition—An
+Argument for Protection—Artisans’ Wages and
+Holidays—Protection doomed—Cadgers—Freedom, for Tongue
+and Foot—Something hot!
+CHAPTER X.—_In Egypt_:—Suez—Hassan—Donkeys for Nine—The            181
+Languishing Nobleman—Backsheesh—Painting the Lily—Forced
+Labour, a painful Sight—Agriculture _à la_ Adam—School
+Interrupted—In the Bazaars—The Jewellers—A Bridal
+Party—Sultan Hassan—Familiar Devils—Up the Great
+Pyramid—The Heaven-sent Stick—A Wash and a Shave—To
+Sakkara—A Great City—At Sakkara—Tomb of the Sacred
+Bulls—The Tomb of a High Priest—A Graphic Biograph—The
+Eternal Backsheesh—A Camelcade.
+CHAPTER XI.—_In Egypt_:—Pious Orgies—Howlers and                   209
+Dancers—Miss Whateley’s Schools—“She only steals the Eggs
+now!”—In Shubra Avenue—A Useful Animal—A Morning
+Ride—Sultan Selim—“Sir, I am a Christian”—A Holy Fakir—A
+Statue four thousand years old—Irrigation—Venerable
+Orphans—Home to Vote.
+CHAPTER XII.—_In Egypt_;—Port                                      226
+Said—Hawkers—Bohemiennes—Marines—The last Unmarried
+Lady—The Harbour—A discerning young Arab—The Red Ribbon
+Army—“Once a Member, always a Member”—The Spider—“One
+must be civ-il!”—Our Blue Jackets.
+CHAPTER XIII.—_The Suez Canal_:—Arabi in Exile—A ’cute             238
+Governor—The French outwitted—“Thomas Cook and Son”—A
+Black-Guard—Tel-el-Kebir—The Land of Goshen—The Suez
+Canal—Lord Palmerston—Immense Traffic—Lake
+Timsah—Predictions—Red Tape—Absurd Restrictions—Lesseps’
+Position—A Suggestion—The Dual Control—Arabi Bey—Mutinous
+Conduct—Irregular Court-Martial—How Arabi recruited his
+Army—“L’etat c’est moi.”
+CHAPTER XIV.—_Alexandria_:—Ras-el-Tin—The Forts—A                  260
+Courageous Merchant—Alexandria in Ruins—Alexandria not
+Bombarded—Anglo-Indians—Brindisi—Quarantine.
+INDEX.                                                             269
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                                                            PAGE
+PORTRAIT                                            Frontispiece
+VIGNETTE                                                   Title
+RABBIT AND THISTLE                                           vii
+TERRA FIRMA                                                    1
+TENERIFFE                                                      7
+THE SPORTS                                                     8
+THE CAPTAIN                                                   11
+ASCENSION                                                     17
+CROSSING THE LINE.  WHY, DON’T YOU SEE IT?                    19
+THE BABY HIPPOPOTAMUS AT PLAY                                 21
+BURYING THE DEAD HORSE                                        23
+THE CLASSIC DOLPHIN                                           28
+A COLONIAL PARSON                                             31
+IN THE TROPICS                                                40
+GOLD MINE                                                     49
+A BIG TREE                                                    52
+ON THE BLACK SPUR                                             56
+THE LYRE BIRD                                                 59
+THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES—A POEM                                64
+AVOCA                                                         67
+ST. MARY’S                                                    68
+FALMOUTH HOTEL                                                69
+BURIAL PLACE                                                  70
+SUMMIT OF MOUNT WELLINGTON                                    76
+VIEW IN HOBART GARDENS                                        77
+OUR WAITER                                                    79
+SYDNEY HARBOUR                                                80
+COTTAGE AT MOUNT VICTORIA                                     86
+WEATHERBOARD FALLS                                            87
+DESCENT TO HARTLEY VALE                                       88
+THE LAUGHING JACKASS                                          90
+THE AUTHOR SKETCHING                                          91
+A BULLOCK-TEAM                                                94
+A BUSH HUT                                                    95
+AN UP-COUNTRY TOWN                                            98
+THE PLATYPUS                                                 112
+A FIJIAN                                                     117
+THE KING’S SISTER                                            127
+THE CHINAMAN                                                 142
+LITTLE MIN-NE                                                143
+SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO                                    145
+THE LAST OF “MISTER”                                         146
+THE EUCALYPTUS                                               148
+SALT LAKE                                                    155
+MONUMENT ROCK                                                158
+THE DEVIL’S SLIDE                                            159
+UNDER THE FALLS, NIAGARA                                     163
+THE PALLISADES, HUDSON RIVER                                 166
+JOHN SCALES, JUSTICE OF THE PEACE                            168
+A DRAGOMAN                                                   182
+A DONKEY BOY                                                 184
+THE “ORIENT”                                                 186
+THE SCHOOLMASTER “ABROAD”                                    189
+A “PEEP”                                                     190
+“BERY CHEAP, SAH!”                                           191
+THE MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN                                  193
+ASCENDING THE GREAT PYRAMID                                  197
+VIEW ON THE NILE                                             198
+THE SPHINX                                                   199
+A WASH AND A SHAVE                                           201
+THE SERAPEUM, SAKKARA                                        204
+BAS-RELIEF, TOMB OF TIH                                      206
+A CAMELCADE                                                  208
+PRAYERS IN THE DESERT                                        209
+A RUNNER, OR SAIS                                            212
+IN SHUBRA AVENUE                                             214
+WATER CARRIERS                                               215
+THE TOMBS OF THE KHALIFS                                     218
+A STREET IN BÛLAK                                            219
+A HOLY FAKIR                                                 222
+A WRECKED SHIP OF THE DESERT                                 223
+AU REVOIR!                                                   225
+IN THE SUEZ CANAL                                            226
+A FEATHER MERCHANT                                           227
+CETEWAYO DISGUISED AS A GENTLEMAN                            236
+ADENESE WOMEN                                                240
+A FAMILIAR FACE                                              261
+THE END                                                      268
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+                          [Picture: Terra Firma]
+
+It is commonly supposed by landsmen that the perils of ocean travelling
+are much greater than those encountered upon land.  For my own part, I
+believe that, once on the open sea, there is no pleasanter or safer mode
+of locomotion than is to be found in a well-appointed sailing ship or
+steamer.  I certainly was in much greater danger of being drowned while
+travelling on the railway between Bristol and Plymouth upon one occasion
+than I have ever known myself to be while on board ship. The autumn had
+been exceedingly wet, and the low-lying districts in Somersetshire had
+become flooded, causing the railway to be completely submerged for a
+distance of about three miles.  The water reached to the floors of the
+railway carriages, while the locomotive in its progress made a great wave
+in front of the train.  The wheels of the locomotive were 8ft. 10in. in
+height, and the fire-box was 6ft. above the ground.  Boats accompanied
+the train on either side during its passage through the water.  Certainly
+I have never felt in so much danger in the 60,000 miles of ocean
+travelling which I have had since then.  Not that there are no dangers to
+be met with on the water, as I found to my alarm before I had fairly
+commenced my last voyage.
+
+Our vessel lay three miles off the Hoe, at Plymouth, and we had engaged a
+large sailing boat to take us on board.  When we had got half way to the
+ship, and had lost the shelter of the land, a fierce squall struck the
+sail and turned the boat over on its side, throwing us into a confused
+heap on its bottom.  The boatman tried to lower the sail, but having tied
+it in a fast knot he could not do so, and had no means of cutting the
+rope.  The rain came down pitilessly all the time, and the waves dashed
+over us, drenching us to the skin, darkness coming on in the meantime.
+For a few moments we almost gave ourselves up as lost, but fortunately
+the violence of the wind lessened, the boat righted itself, and we got
+alongside our ship, but were unable in the darkness and the rush of the
+water and the noise of the wind and rain to make ourselves heard.  My
+companion and I had to climb up the rope-ladder attached to the ship, and
+to scramble over its side as best we could, in the confusion altogether
+forgetting to take leave of our friends who were in the boat below, and
+who were lost to sight the instant we got on to the deck.
+
+On entering the saloon the contrast was very great.  The big ship riding
+at anchor was as steady as the land we had just left.  The saloon was
+brilliantly lighted; and the passengers who had joined the ship at
+Gravesend were sitting round the table engaged in various occupations;
+some were reading or writing, while others were playing at whist, or were
+engaged in conversation.  Being new arrivals, there was considerable
+curiosity to see which cabin we should call our own.
+
+To a man taking his first voyage the phrase “cabin’d, cribb’d, confin’d”
+is at once understood as he surveys the cabin, a portion of which is to
+be his home for a month or two.  The first feeling is that it will be
+impossible to bestow all his belongings in the limited space at his
+disposal, but before he has been long on board things settle down into
+their places, and he almost begins to wonder what he shall do with all
+the room.
+
+The first night on board ship is generally one of great confusion.  The
+passengers seem to be in everybody’s way; but immediately after leaving
+port the baggage is stowed away, the purser allots the seats at table,
+and everything goes on with the greatest regularity.
+
+The passengers on board one of the great Australian ships form a perfect
+epitome of the great world ashore.  The line of division is sharply drawn
+between the various sets or cliques.  Many never condescend to notice
+numbers of their fellow-passengers during the whole voyage; but for the
+most part fraternisation becomes general after the first fortnight has
+passed.
+
+A three months’ voyage often enables a man to form a juster appreciation
+of the character of his fellow-passengers than many years’ residence in
+the same neighbourhood would do on shore; hence it often happens that
+life-friendships of the warmest kind are formed on board ship.  On
+steamers bound for the Colonies representatives of almost every class are
+to be found.  Judges returning to their duties after a holiday all too
+short; colonial statesmen with sufficient time on their hands to allow of
+their formulating a policy to meet every conceivable combination among
+their parliamentary opponents; and squatters and merchants returning to
+the Colonies to look after their property or their business.  These men
+are generally very much preoccupied, and their only anxiety appears to be
+to get as speedily as possible to their destination.
+
+Another class is composed of clergymen and professional men taking a
+holiday, and generally speaking with every sign of great enjoyment; while
+two other classes are largely represented—viz., invalids in search of
+health, and young ne’er-do-wells sent to the Colonies under the mistaken
+idea of their being more likely to reform in a new country.  The latter
+class is mainly composed of young fellows who have never been brought up
+to any trade or calling at home, and who, with their friends, seem to
+think that the Colonies are a sort of “Tom Tiddler’s ground,” where they
+can “pick up gold and silver.”
+
+These youths are sent out by their friends as a last chance, under what
+is known as the “private convict system,” and I believe that a very small
+proportion of them ever take a position of respectability after landing
+in the Colonies.  Nor is it to be wondered at, for on the principle of
+“birds of a feather,” etc., these young men get together on the outward
+voyage, and all their previous vices become much intensified by the
+association.  On the other hand, many young men of good character, going
+out to the Colonies in search of employment, and showing by their conduct
+during the voyage that they are self-respecting, and consequently
+trustworthy, have secured good appointments from colonial merchants
+before leaving the ship.
+
+Those who take the voyage on account of impaired health mainly consist of
+men suffering from overwork, and invalids more or less affected with
+pulmonary disease.  In the case of the former a long voyage is the surest
+remedy; and for those in the earliest stage of consumption it is
+generally found to be efficacious; but it would be impossible to devise a
+more cruel fate for such as are thoroughly affected by that fell disease
+than to send them out on a long voyage.  The conditions are all against
+them; the draught in the saloon is always great, and there is a total
+absence of those little comforts and delicacies which consumptive
+patients so greatly need, and the lack of which is so sorely felt.
+Doctors who have never made a voyage little think to what a miserable
+fate they are dooming their consumptive patients when they order them to
+take a sea voyage.  In five cases out of six these patients are sent out
+too late, and the voyage only hastens their inevitable end, while, if
+they had only been sent in the earliest stages of the disease, they would
+almost certainly have been restored.
+
+I started on my first Australian voyage on a lovely day in the late
+autumn.  The sun was shining brilliantly, and as there was very little
+wind we fondly hoped we should cross the Bay of Biscay without having to
+go through the disagreeable experiences usually met with there; but our
+hopes were rudely dispelled when, after two days, having fairly got into
+the bay, we found a strong “nor’-wester” blowing, with heavy seas and
+torrents of rain.
+
+Our ship was a duplicate of the ill-fated “London,” and the officers
+comforted us with the information that we were just on the spot where she
+had gone down a few years before.
+
+The wind and waves had been increasing in force during the day; but at
+four o’clock, just as we were sitting down to dinner, a heavy sea burst
+’tween decks with a great uproar, breaking through the doors leading from
+the main-deck to the saloon, swamping the nearest cabins, and completely
+scattering the dinner, dishes and all.
+
+The stewards had a busy time of it for the next two hours in mopping and
+baling the water out, and in preparing another dinner.  Many of us,
+however, preferred retiring to our berths, the weather in the meantime
+getting decidedly worse.  Presently another sea was shipped, deluging our
+cabin, amongst others, and leaving us in perfect darkness; while the
+noise of the sailors tramping overhead, the smashing of crockery, and the
+falling of blocks and ropes, the shouts of the officers, and the
+continual roar of the storm, effectually banished sleep for the night.  I
+gained, however, one valuable piece of information, for as a result of
+the storm I learned a certain cure for sea-sickness!  I had been quite
+ill before the final burst, but the excitement from this cured me
+instantly.
+
+During the night we travelled out of the storm into smoother water, and
+it was curious to note the effect of this improved state of affairs, and
+of the bright sunshine, in bringing fresh faces on deck.
+
+The life of a steward on board one of these ships is not an enviable one.
+He has to be up at work at four o’clock, washing and scrubbing the
+saloon; to wait at table four times a day; to make the beds, and attend
+to the cabins; and to be generally useful amongst the passengers, rarely
+finishing before ten o’clock at night.  Our steward was a very handy
+fellow.  He informed me he had a brother in New Zealand in practice as a
+doctor, who wanted him to settle there, but he preferred “a life on the
+ocean wave.”  He strongly recommended us to bathe frequently in salt
+water, saying it “was good for the spin-ial orgins!”
+
+            [Picture: Teneriffe (from a sketch by J. Willis)]
+
+Eight days after leaving Plymouth we passed the Canary Islands, steaming
+between Teneriffe and Gomera.  The weather was delightful, and we had a
+fine view of the famous Peak, which rises apparently straight out of the
+sea to a height of 12,000 feet.  These islands form a province of Spain,
+and are volcanic in their origin.  The last eruption was in 1824.  The
+vegetable productions of the islands are very varied.  Palms and tropical
+plants grow near the sea; higher up cereals are grown; above, laurels;
+and still higher, pines and the white broom.  The islands also produce
+oranges, lemons, dates, sugar-cane, cotton, and silk.
+
+        [Picture: The “Sports” (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)]
+
+Soon after passing the Canaries the Tropics are entered; and some of us
+begin to feel, for the first time, what heat really is.  Awnings are
+fixed, and preparations are made for various kinds of amusements, amongst
+which the most popular are quoits, a run with the hounds, jumping in
+sacks by moonlight, racing in sacks, etc.
+
+The game of quoits is much in favour with those who can play it, but it
+is a most selfish affair, for half-a-dozen men monopolise the whole of
+one side of the deck—and that the best or upper side—and, beginning at
+ten in the morning, continue till the dinner hour.
+
+These are the day amusements.  In the evenings there are concerts,
+recitations, and occasionally theatrical performances.  Some passengers
+are of a studious turn, and divide their time between reading, writing,
+and walking, while others—notably young men from the Colonies—recline at
+ease during the day and become lively at night, often perambulating the
+decks with heavy heels till the small hours of the morning, to the great
+discomfort of those sleeping below.
+
+Our second-class fellow-passengers commenced the concert season by giving
+a very amusing entertainment in their saloon.  The first piece on the
+programme was an “overture by the band”—the band being represented by a
+single concertina.  The chairman, a jolly-looking old tar, tried three
+pieces, and broke down in amidst roars of laughter and calls for the
+chorus.  An “ancient buffer” sang “My Pretty Jane,” and a few other
+sentimental things, with looks of fond affection.  Then came a solo by
+“Bones,” and another sailor gave a song which recounted his many
+ailments.  He said he had had “brownchitis,” “scarlatina,” “concertina,”
+and “tightness in the chest.”  Then a melancholy youth ground out
+something about his love for a “Little brown jug,” calling frequently for
+a chorus, the whole ending with “God save the Queen.”
+
+We had other concerts during the voyage, and it was noticeable that the
+peculiarity which is said to attend amateur performances on land was not
+absent with us, for our concerts were usually productive of anything but
+harmony—at any rate amongst the singers.  Those who were first invited to
+sing usually had colds, and those who were free from colds often declined
+because they were not invited first.  Even the singing of hymns at the
+evening service was more than once made the occasion of heated
+discussion.
+
+Another mode of occupying leisure hours on board ship as soon as the
+passengers have fairly settled down for the voyage is to start a
+newspaper.  A few of the passengers meet and choose an editor, and the
+general public are invited to send contributions to him.  At the outset
+promises of help are very abundant, but, as a matter of fact, the work
+has to be done by a very few persons.  The paper appears weekly, in
+manuscript, and is usually read aloud by the editor after dinner on the
+day of issue.
+
+Sometimes it is agreed to have the paper printed on reaching the Colony,
+and when that is determined upon one or two individuals undertake the
+duty of passing it through the press, and of forwarding it to the various
+subscribers.  As a rule the same persons rarely undertake the duty twice,
+for it is a very arduous and oft-times thankless task.
+
+Some of the more cautious subscribers object to paying in advance, or
+require guarantees for due delivery and for the proper performance of the
+work.  On one occasion one of my companions undertook the work of
+preparing the paper for the press, and correcting the proofs; it took him
+nearly three weeks to do so, and I am sure he will never undertake a
+similar task.  The colonial printer gave him a great deal of trouble,
+persisting in ignoring his corrections, and in “improving the text” by
+altering it according to his own ideas.  One peculiarity of amateur
+authorship came out into strong relief in the printing of this paper—the
+number of quotations and of inverted commas was so great that our
+printer’s stock was quite exhausted, and he had to send all round the
+city to borrow a sufficient supply.
+
+         [Picture: The Captain (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)]
+
+In a three months’ voyage the advantage of having a genial captain is
+obvious, and in this respect we were most fortunate, for it was
+impossible for anyone to be kinder or more considerate.  Our captain
+entered heartily into all our amusements and schemes for the relief of
+the monotony of the voyage, and was ably seconded in his efforts by his
+amiable wife.
+
+Sometimes it did appear to some of the more eager and impatient of the
+passengers that the captain was fonder of being on the water than they
+were; for he had a great regard for his sails, and whenever the wind
+developed unusual energy had no hesitation in diminishing the rate of our
+progress by shortening sail.  The first officer, perhaps with the
+rashness of youth, would crowd all sail during his watch before
+breakfast, but when the captain made his appearance an order to “Take in
+those sails” would be promptly addressed to the chief.
+
+Our captain had made the voyage more than twenty times, and had very
+carefully studied and noted the meteorological signs in various
+latitudes.  The sky seemed like a book to him, and often when we could
+see no indications of change—and it was wonderful how quickly changes
+sometimes came—he would rapidly make his arrangements, and was rarely
+caught by the most sudden of tropical squalls.  Our first experience of
+one of these squalls was when we were fifty miles to the south of
+Madeira.  The weather had been fine all day, but about five o’clock we
+were aroused by great activity on the part of the officers and crew, who
+acted as though they expected to be boarded by pirates.  The sky had
+become cloudy, and we were told that a squall was expected.  The captain
+stood at the stern and gave his orders to the first officer in a quiet
+manner, while the latter shouted them to the sailors, who at once began
+to climb and pull at the ropes, all the while singing their sea songs.
+In the meantime the wind had come up, and was blowing like a hurricane
+through the rigging, and then the rain came down in torrents.  While this
+was going on we saw a ship at a little distance, also overtaken by the
+squall, and it was wonderful to see how soon they took in her sails—it
+was done in a twinkling.  Our vessel rolled and pitched heavily, and
+everything looked wet and wretched; but the squall passed off almost as
+quickly as it came, and the sun shone out, and everything looked smiling
+again.  Unfortunately, during the storm the wind changed right ahead.
+
+Our captain was a Tory, as most long-voyage captains are.  I have often
+thought it strange that it should be so, seeing that the whole purpose of
+a captain’s life is to make progress on his voyage; but it would appear
+that, although he is always progressing, he invariably comes back to his
+starting point.
+
+At dinner one day, happening to say I was from Birmingham, the captain
+said jocularly, “Oh, that’s where all the shams come from!”
+
+Now the captain hails from London, but his wife is an Irish lady, so I
+answered, “No, captain, the things known as Brummagem shams are like the
+Irish bulls, and are, for the most part, manufactured in London.”
+
+“That’s so,” said the captain’s wife; “well done, Mr. Tangye,” and the
+captain subsided.
+
+Truly life on shipboard is a curious medley.  Here is a picture of what
+went on one night.  In the lower tier of cabins lies a young man in the
+last stage of consumption, and almost in the agonies of death; in a cabin
+just above him is another suffering from scarlet fever; within a few feet
+of these are mothers nursing their babies.  Sitting in a corner of the
+saloon is another young man, also in the final stage of consumption, away
+from all his friends, and without a single acquaintance on board; in
+front of him are two card parties, one of them playing for money, and
+looking as eager about it as though dear life depended on success.
+
+While all this is going on below, what might have been a tragedy is being
+enacted on deck, for the quartermaster went suddenly mad while standing
+at the wheel.  The captain had just given him some instructions, but he
+did not seem to take kindly to them, and was inclined to be disputatious.
+Presently he said, with an oath, “I won’t argue with you to-night,
+captain.”  The captain then ordered another man to take the wheel, when
+the poor fellow ran along the deck and fell forward, kicking vigorously.
+The captain, thinking the man was in a fit, summoned the doctor, who,
+after waiting till the patient became quieter, tried to persuade him to
+go forward with him.  The man, however, suddenly sprang up and aimed a
+tremendous blow at the poor little doctor, who, fortunately, being
+cunning of fence, managed to evade it.  He then chased the doctor around
+the deck, and would doubtless have thrown him overboard if he could have
+caught him.  The first officer then came to the rescue and seized the
+lunatic, but, although a very strong man, the doctor and he were unable
+to hold him, and ultimately it took six men to carry him forward.  At
+last they managed to secure him, as they thought, but in a very short
+time the sailors came rushing pell-mell on to the poop-deck, the maniac
+having got loose and begun to chase them with a long fork.  It was some
+time before they could again secure him, but finally they succeeded, and
+put him into a strait-jacket.
+
+In the morning the first officer went to see the poor fellow, who asked
+him to shake hands, but the officer declined.  “Well, sir,” said the man,
+“I saved all your lives last night, for if I hadn’t put the ship about
+she would have been right into that other ship on the starboard bow!”  Of
+course this was entirely a delusion, for there had been no ship there.
+
+Soon after entering the Tropics on one of my voyages, one of the
+second-class passengers was taken ill, and died in a few hours; he had
+been suffering from an attack of _delirium tremens_.  The funeral was
+arranged to take place at 7.30 on the following morning, and at the
+appointed time the body, which had been sewn up in sail-cloth, was placed
+on trestles on the main deck, opposite a port-hole, the “Union Jack”
+covering it.  Presently the bell began to toll, while the clergyman and
+captain read the service for the dead, and when the latter came to the
+passage “We therefore commit his body to the deep,” he looked at the
+sailors, who at once loosed the corpse, which, being weighted with iron,
+shot through the open port-hole into the water with a great splash.
+During the ceremony the engines were stopped.
+
+The day following was Sunday, and it being a glorious day, with a
+perfectly smooth sea, it was arranged for the service to be held on deck,
+which was covered with an awning.  One of the passengers had brought a
+set of hand-bells with him, and he and some others rang out a peal before
+the service, the effect being curious.
+
+The water was of a beautiful purple colour, and the sky a deep blue, and
+some large white birds were lazily flying around the ship.  Under these
+unusual circumstances, and with the solemn incident of the burial of the
+poor drunkard on the previous day, one would have thought that even the
+dullest minister would have felt a thrill of inspiration.  Judge, then,
+of our surprise when the parson commenced talking to us about geology!
+Nor did he make the slightest reference to the scene around him during
+the whole sermon.  He told us, incidentally, that miners had not yet
+succeeded in getting more than twelve miles deep!  During the afternoon I
+ventured to ask him where the mine was situated of which he had spoken,
+as, happening to know something about mining operations, I was anxious to
+know how the miners managed to pump the water from a depth of twelve
+miles.  He answered testily, “I was not speaking of any particular mine.”
+
+On one occasion a discussion arose as to the best means to be adopted to
+ensure the attendance of the working classes at church.  The reverend
+gentleman told us that for his part he had no difficulty in getting
+people to attend his church—all classes and conditions of people came to
+hear him, and yet he took no special means to secure their attendance.
+Not being impressed with the parson’s eloquence, we were at a loss to
+understand how it was that he was so successful, when far abler and more
+attractive men failed so conspicuously; but he vouchsafed no explanation.
+On arriving in the Colony the explanation was forthcoming, for I found
+that our reverend friend was chaplain to a cemetery!
+
+On another occasion the old gentleman preached a sermon in which he
+related an anecdote of a soldier who was mortally wounded on the field of
+Waterloo.  One of the chaplains found the poor fellow, who showed him a
+Bible which he had always carried in his pocket, it having been given him
+by his mother on leaving home.  “Doubtless,” said the clergyman, “this
+young man, having served his country to the death, went straight to
+glory.”  Curiously enough, in the lesson for that day occurred the verse,
+“Love your enemies,” etc., so during the day I asked him how he
+reconciled the verse with the idea of the red-handed soldier going
+straight to glory?  The parson (who was an Irishman) replied, “Sure, the
+soldier was heaping _fire_ on his enemy’s head!”
+
+            [Picture: Ascension (from a sketch by J. Willis)]
+
+In about eighteen days after leaving Plymouth we reached the island of
+Ascension, whose fine group of volcanic peaks formed a magnificent object
+from our steamer.  The island is used as a sanatorium for the British
+Colonies on the west coast of Africa.  It has an area of about
+thirty-five square miles, and produces an abundance of turtles,
+pheasants, peafowl, and eggs, while tomatoes, castor-oil plants, and
+pepper, are indigenous.
+
+The first officer went ashore with a boat to take our letters, and to
+bring back some turtles for use during the voyage.  Immediately the boat
+left the ship we saw a big shark following close in its wake, the brute’s
+fin showing above the water until the landing-stage was reached.  This
+gave us some concern, as sharks are very bold at times, and have been
+known to snap at a hand hanging over the side of a boat.  We saw large
+numbers about the ship during our stay, and one of the passengers shot
+several of them with a rifle.  One was quite near to the ship when shot,
+and on feeling the bullet leaped right out of the water, and was
+instantly attacked and doubtless devoured by its brethren on falling back
+into the sea.  We also put out a hook baited with pork, and observed
+several of the sharks make attempts upon it; but they appeared to be very
+clumsy, for they repeatedly missed it.  Presently, however, one fellow
+got the hook firmly into his mouth, and we hauled him in over the stern
+on to the poop.  He dashed about madly, looked very vicious, and reared
+right up on end, when the sailors barbarously hacked his tail off.  Soon
+he was hauled on to the main-deck and quickly despatched, his teeth being
+on sale at a shilling each in less than an hour afterwards.  Three
+turtles were brought on board “all alive,” and placed on their backs on
+the deck until they were required by the cook.  They each measured
+5ft.6in. long by 3ft. wide, and 6ft.8in. in girth, and each weighed about
+330 lbs.
+
+One day we had very rough weather, with an occasional sea dashing over
+the deck, along which the dinner was brought from the kitchen.  My
+steward quietly told me to take none of the turtle soup, and I obeyed.
+After dinner I asked him why he advised me to let the soup pass?  He said
+that as they were coming along the deck a sea came over and washed half
+the soup out of the tureen, decidedly mixing what was left!  Those who
+partook of the soup remarked that the cook had put rather too much salt
+to it; but they libelled that useful functionary.
+
+         [Picture: Crossing the “Line”—“Why! don’t you see it?”]
+
+One of our fellow-passengers was an old German lady, who was returning
+from a visit to her fatherland.  She was very lively, and informed us she
+had not told her husband she was returning by this ship, intending, as
+she said, “to catch him on de hop,” but she did not know that the
+passengers’ names were all sent on by the mail, which went faster than we
+did; so when we got to the port her husband, “Shemmy” (Jemmy), as she
+called him, had come out with the pilot, and was very near catching her
+on “de hop,” for she was a very lively old lady.  One morning, while we
+were in the Tropics, upon getting on deck, we found the old lady dressed
+from head to foot in scarlet!  It was too much, with the thermometer at
+101° in the shade, so a deputation waited upon her and begged her to
+shade her glory, for it was too overpowering.
+
+                [Picture: The “Baby Hippopotamus” at Play]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+After being a month at sea the sailors performed the ceremony called
+“Burying the Dead Horse,” the explanation of which is this: Before
+leaving port seamen are paid a month in advance, so as to enable them to
+leave some money with their wives, or to buy a new kit, etc., and having
+spent the money they consider the first month goes for nothing, and so
+call it “Working off the Dead Horse.”  The crew dress up a figure to
+represent a horse; its body is made out of a barrel, its extremities of
+hay or straw covered with canvas, the mane and tail of hemp, the eyes of
+two ginger beer bottles, sometimes filled with phosphorus.  When complete
+the noble steed is put on a box, covered with a rug, and on the evening
+of the last day of the month a man gets on to his back, and is drawn all
+round the ship by his shipmates, to the chanting of the following
+doggerel:—
+
+                [Picture: Music to Burying the Dead Horse]
+
+                           BURYING THE DEAD HORSE.
+
+    You have come a long long way,
+       And we say so, for we know so.
+    For to be sold upon this day,
+       Poor old man.
+
+    You are goin’ now to say good-bye,
+       And we say so, for we know so.
+    Poor old horse you’re a goin’ to die,
+       Poor Old Man.
+
+Having paraded the decks in order to get an audience, the sale of the
+horse by auction is announced, and a glib-mouthed man mounts the rostrum
+and begins to praise the noble animal, giving his pedigree, etc., saying
+it was a good one to go, for it had gone 6,000 miles in the past month!
+The bidding then commences, each bidder being responsible only for the
+amount of his advance on the last bid.  After the sale the horse and its
+rider are run up to the yard-arm amidst loud cheers.  Fireworks are let
+off, the man gets off the horse’s back, and, cutting the rope, lets it
+fall into the water.  The _Requiem_ is then sung to the same melody.
+
+    Now he is dead and will die no more,
+       And we say so, for we know so.
+    Now he is gone and will go no more;
+       Poor Old Man.
+
+                    [Picture: Burying the Dead Horse]
+
+After this the auctioneer and his clerk proceed to collect the “bids,”
+and if in your ignorance of auction etiquette you should offer your’s to
+the auctioneer, he politely declines it, and refers you to his clerk!
+
+As we neared the Equator the heat became very oppressive.  On October
+2nd, when 7° north of the line, the thermometer stood at 120° in the sun,
+while under the awning it registered 85°.  On the thermometer being
+dipped into the sea the temperature of the surface water was found to be
+82°, while in the cabin at midnight the thermometer stood at 80°, with
+the wind blowing in at the open porthole.
+
+In passing under the vertical sun the old proverb “may your shadow never
+grow less” is entirely out of place, for it is impossible it can
+diminish, unless, indeed, one should become like poor misguided Peter
+Schlemihl, and find oneself altogether without one!  When standing
+upright my shadow was about two feet in diameter, and it looked like the
+shadow of the brim of my hat all round my feet.
+
+The wife of the captain of our steamer had been very unwell until we had
+passed the Equator, and had not come out of her cabin.  One evening, soon
+after she made her first appearance, I was chatting with her, when,
+finding I was from Cornwall, she asked me if I knew a certain
+watering-place in that county which she named.  It happened that I had a
+residence at the place in question, and curiously enough she had been a
+visitor at the same house before I had it, and she said, “last year my
+sister was staying in the neighbourhood with some friends, when they were
+nearly caught by the tide on the beach opposite the house, and had to
+scale the face of the cliff, climbing up some old ladders left in an
+abandoned mine.”  I told her if they had taken my advice, and had turned
+back, they would not have had such an unpleasant adventure, for I
+happened to be on the beach at the time, and warned the party of their
+danger, but they disregarded it!  It was curious to be reminded of this
+occurrence under such circumstances.
+
+Amongst our fellow-passengers were two young men, whose friends, it was
+reported, had become tired of them at home, and had made a present of
+them to the Colonies.  They were very lively youths, and did their best
+to keep the ship lively by their pranks and escapades.  They were known
+by the names of “Tall and Fat,” and “Short and Stout,” and were always
+together.  Sometimes, however, the playfulness of these two young men
+received an unexpected check.  On one occasion they had gone “forward” to
+play some tricks upon the emigrants, who, however, did not see the fun;
+so, having got the lads into a corner, they covered them, first with
+molasses and then with flour, and so returned them to the saloon.  They
+did not repeat their visit.
+
+There is one feature on board many ships which always strikes passengers
+with surprise; and that is the impunity with which the “wild spirits”
+carry on their disorderly conduct.  Drinking, betting, shouting, tramping
+the deck at unseemly hours of the night, are permitted, to the great
+annoyance of the majority; but it is in vain that you appeal to the
+officers—they will not interfere.  On one occasion a noisy youth, who
+went by the name of the “Blatant Beast,” was firing a revolver about “at
+large,” and although we appealed to the captain, and begged that he would
+disarm the lad, it was useless—he would not interfere.  Ultimately the
+young man accidentally discharged the pistol and broke his arm, and so
+relieved his neighbours from further apprehensions for a time.
+
+One night “Short and Stout” and “Tall and Fat,” and a few other rowdies,
+got drunk, and in their rambles found a poor harmless cat, which they
+chased all over the ship, and succeeded in killing.  On the following day
+these gallant youths determined, in Irish phrase, to “wake” the cat.
+They proceeded to fit up one of their cabins as a chapel, and upon a bier
+the corpse of poor pussy was laid, having been dressed for the occasion,
+candles surrounding the body.  The mourners, or murderers, stood around
+the body with pipes in their mouths, meggy-howling and cat-a-wauling in a
+most vigorous fashion, afterwards parading the deck, headed by one of
+their party, arrayed in a dress coat over a night shirt, and wearing a
+tall white hat, carrying the dead body of poor puss before him.
+
+Betting is often carried on to a great extent, considerable sums of money
+changing hands.  One passenger told me, after we had been some weeks at
+sea, that he had cleared enough to pay for his own passage, and also for
+that of his wife and child, and that it only remained for him to win
+enough to pay for the nurse, and to take them all from Australia to New
+Zealand, and he should be happy!  I knew one man, the father of a very
+large family, who lost £700 in three weeks, £400 of it going at a single
+night’s play; yet, with striking consistency, this open-handed gentleman
+refused to allow his wife and daughters to go on shore at one of the most
+interesting of our ports of call on the score of the expense, which he
+said would amount to at least £2 or £3!
+
+A pleasant sight it is to watch the fish and birds which begin to make
+their appearance about 30° S.  Occasionally flocks of flying-fish are to
+be seen flying a few feet above the water, pursued by dolphins.
+Sometimes their headlong flight carries them right on to the deck, or
+through the cabin windows when lighted up after nightfall.  They are
+caught by the sailors at night by the simple device of suspending a net
+in front of a lantern, and they are said to be very good when cooked.
+
+We first saw that splendid bird, the albatross, when about 28° S.
+latitude, and when more than 1,000 miles from land.  They appeared in
+flocks, and would follow the ship for many days.  Their flight is
+exceedingly graceful, and very rapid, the movement of their wings being
+scarcely perceptible.  The capture of the albatross is a favourite
+amusement upon sailing ships—it is scarcely possible to catch them from a
+steamer—the plan being to let out a line over the stern, having a strong
+hook baited with a piece of meat or with red cloth.  We were successful
+in catching a magnificent fellow, which measured 15ft. across its wings.
+A drop of prussic acid applied to the eye of the poor creature causes
+instant death.  The breast forms an excellent muff, and the wing bones
+make good stems for pipes of the “churchwarden” pattern.  One of our
+passengers was a fiery Irishman, who was travelling with his
+newly-married wife.  One day, while at dinner, the ship gave a heavy
+lurch, and the lady fell back, breaking her chair; upon which her
+husband, in a great rage, seized the chair, and, rushing on deck, threw
+it overboard, when lo! a flock of albatrosses crowded around it, and one
+fine fellow “took” the chair, and appeared to be addressing his friends!
+
+One of the most beautiful creatures to be seen in tropical waters is the
+“Portuguese Man-of-War.”  It is often confounded with the Nautilus, but
+is a quite distinct organism; it has a crest which can be raised or
+lowered at will, and its body consists of a long, horizontal, oblong
+bladder filled with air.  They vary in size from 12in. diameter to small
+discs no larger than a shilling, and present a beautiful appearance as
+the ship passes by a fleet of them.
+
+          [Picture: (A) The “Classic” Dolphin.  (B) The Dolphin]
+
+We caught some dolphins, and an examination of their stomachs proved they
+were not unjustly suspected of eating the pretty little flying-fish.  The
+pilot-fish, also found in these latitudes, is coloured purple and silver,
+with five black bands across it, and is about five inches in length.  We
+also saw specimens of the white shark, porpoises, grampuses, Mother
+Carey’s chickens, booby-birds, etc.
+
+One of the most interesting sights at sea is the passing of ships.  I
+shall never forget our meeting a ship in full sail one glorious moonlight
+night.  It came close to us, the moon shining full on its sails, and
+being like our vessel, a sailing ship, not a sound was heard until our
+captain hailed the stranger, and asked him to report us “all well.”
+
+One would think there was not much danger of collision at sea, in broad
+daylight and in the open ocean, but on one occasion, while in a sailing
+ship, another came so close to us that it was only by the most dexterous
+management on the part of our captain that a collision was avoided.
+
+The monotony of a long voyage is occasionally relieved by the opportunity
+of sending letters in homeward-bound ships, and when we had been out
+about a month we were told to have our letters ready, for a ship was in
+sight.  Everyone was immediately deeply engaged in writing, and presently
+the stranger came sufficiently near for us to communicate with her.  Our
+signal was run up, “Will you take letters for us?” to which she quickly
+replied, “With pleasure,” and then a boat left us to take our letter-bag
+on board the “homeward-bound.”  This vessel was from Moulmein with teak,
+and she had been one hundred days out.  Those on board had heard nothing
+of the Cabul massacre, but they brought us news of the capture of
+Cetewayo, having got it from a passing ship.  In return for this
+intelligence we told them of the death of the Prince Imperial, which they
+had not heard of, although it happened before the capture of Cetewayo.
+
+Some of our passengers went on board the passing ship, and two of them
+scrambled up the rigging, and presently we saw a sailor follow them and
+tie their legs to the rigging, releasing them as soon as they had paid
+their footing.  In the evening the two ships parted company, saluting
+each other with rockets of various colours.
+
+While our letters were being taken on board the homeward-bound ship, we
+saw a huge shark follow the boat until it reached the vessel, and on
+hearing a shout, “a big fish!” we ran to the ship’s side and saw a whale
+not more than a hundred feet off.  The monster gave a loud snort, spouted
+water, and then made off.  I wonder if it had any idea what we were?
+
+There was a boxing match going forward one day, when the captain invited
+the parson to put the gloves on.  “Oh, no,” he said, “I am a man of peace
+_now_.”  He told me he objected to war as much as anyone could do.
+“But,” I said, “your Church does not.”  He replied that there was nothing
+in the teaching of the Church which advocated war; so I asked him, if
+that was the case, what that part of the prayer-book meant where a hope
+is expressed that the Queen may “vanquish and overcome all her enemies.”
+
+At dinner one day our friend undertook to explain to us how drain-pipes
+were made.  He said, “You know those round things that are put in the
+earth to carry off the water?”  Some one suggested drain-pipes.  “Ah,
+yes,” he said, “you know they take a kind of clay not like other clay,
+and put it into a sort of machine and turn it around and the pipes are
+made.”  I thought his description was not so good as that of the Irishman
+who explained the manufacture of cast-iron pipes by saying, “You take a
+round hole and pour the metal around it.”
+
+                       [Picture: A Colonial Parson]
+
+Some one remarking that we were now 36° south, he said, “Ah, that is just
+4° below freezing,” having confused the degrees of latitude with those of
+the thermometer.  Upon being told that 32° was the freezing point.
+“Really?” he said, “I always thought it was 40°.”
+
+In listening to most of the clergymen with whom I have travelled, I have
+been irresistibly reminded of the complaint made so bitterly, and with so
+much truth, by Australian importers in the early gold-finding days, that
+English merchants and manufacturers were utterly reckless as to the
+quality of the goods they sent out, acting on the principle that
+“anything will do for the Colonies.”  This idea has long ceased to have
+any currency, for it has been discovered that the coinage of the
+Australian mint ranks equally with that of London, but it does not appear
+that those responsible for the due supply of clergymen to the Colonies
+have realised the same truth, for on every hand I have had my own
+experience confirmed.  The general complaint amongst the colonists,
+especially in the country districts, is that either young and totally
+inexperienced men are sent to them, or else men who have proved failures
+at home; and they not unnaturally resent such treatment.
+
+In a recent voyage we had a large number of steerage passengers, and
+amongst them was a very earnest, hard-working evangelist from Mr.
+Spurgeon’s college; this man had sacrificed his ease during the voyage by
+attending to the sick and ailing “in season and out of season,” and was
+admitted on all sides to have done much good; frequently, too, he held
+religious services amongst the steerage passengers, and met with great
+acceptance.  One man had been very ill for a long time, and had been
+tenderly waited upon by the evangelist.  After a time he became suddenly
+worse, and some passengers at once went to a clergyman, who suggested
+that the Communion should be administered.  Having obtained the help of
+another clergyman and two or three of the passengers—none of whom had
+before shown any interest in the patient—they proceeded on their errand
+without saying a word to the evangelist, and on the following Sunday the
+clergyman preached a sermon to the poor people, endeavouring to prove
+that no one had any right to teach or to preach but members of his
+Church, who, only, held the true commission, by virtue of what he called
+the “direct succession from Peter:” and I suppose he thought he was
+preaching religion, not perceiving that he lacked what Paul described as
+being the highest of all the Christian virtues—that of charity.
+
+In passing through the Tropics one of the most glorious sights is the
+phosphorescence in the sea.  Of course it can be seen to the greatest
+advantage in the absence of the moon; it is something wonderful, and
+worth coming all the way to see.  As far as the eye can reach, the track
+of the vessel is marked out with the utmost brilliancy, and sometimes
+tiny balls of phosphorus seem to explode, scattering their radiance far
+and wide.
+
+We had as fellow-passengers three young men who rarely spoke to anyone
+outside their own party, and during the early part of the voyage they
+usually sat on the deck for hours at a time engaged in reading their
+Bibles and making notes on the margin.  After we had been out a few weeks
+the youngest of the three was stricken with scarlet fever, and at one
+time he was seriously ill.
+
+The trio were known as the “Danite Band.”  The eldest was a young man
+about twenty-one, and one evening I had a little chat with him.  He said
+he belonged to no sect; he had “come out from among them”—that his soul
+was safe, die when he would, and that he could only look on the poor
+sinners around him with a pitying eye, and pray for their souls.  He was
+rejoicing at having saved one soul since he came on board.  It so
+happened that this young man occupied the same cabin as the youth who was
+ill with fever, but becoming alarmed for his personal safety (not his
+soul’s), he requested to be accommodated elsewhere, while another
+passenger volunteered to take his place and to nurse the invalid, so they
+exchanged cabins.  On the following Sunday the young man who had
+volunteered as nurse knocked at the pious young man’s door and asked for
+his boots, receiving for answer, “I won’t be bothered about boots on the
+Lord’s Day.”
+
+It is usual to hold a bazaar on passenger ships proceeding to or from the
+Colonies.  These bazaars are almost invariably held in aid of the funds
+of the Merchant Seaman’s Hospital and other similar institutions, and a
+large sum is annually obtained in this way.  The result in the case of
+the sailing vessel in which I made one of my voyages was a sum of over
+£50, besides some annual subscriptions, although the number of adult
+saloon passengers was only about thirty.
+
+Great preparations were made for this bazaar, it being the event of the
+voyage.  The day previous the sailors were busily engaged closing-in the
+promenade deck with canvas and bunting, and dividing it off into stalls
+by means of flags and other coloured materials.  While thus engaged,
+another sailing vessel came in sight, and the sea being nearly dead calm
+the two vessels approached closely, and parties were speedily passing to
+and fro.  We invited some of the passengers in the stranger to join us
+to-morrow, and they invested about £5 in lotteries before going back for
+the night.
+
+Next day was a most lovely one, but a heavy rolling sea was sufficient to
+prevent our visitors of yesterday joining us.  Nevertheless, we
+thoroughly enjoyed the day ourselves, for the whole ship’s
+company—passengers, crew, men, women, and children—held high carnival on
+the promenade deck.  It was pretty to see the children of the second
+class who, owing to the high bulwarks, were rarely able to see over the
+ship’s side, rush first of all to look over the rail at the heaving sea.
+
+The first officer was dressed as a showman, and presided over the Fine
+Art Exhibition, his face being painted a fine terra-cotta tint.  The crew
+and stewards were variously costumed as nigger minstrels, etc.  The
+stalls were presided over by the ladies, who, as usual, were very
+successful in disposing of the various articles, which, by the way, were
+for the most part made up by the ladies themselves during the voyage.
+Much curiosity was excited by the announcement of a dramatic performance,
+entitled “The White Squall,” which was to take place in the Theatre
+Royal.  The _corps dramatique_ evinced great anxiety to secure the
+attendance of the whole ship’s company, and were fairly successful.  The
+performance did not take long, for as soon as the audience were seated
+cries of “Let go” were heard from the actors, upon which the air was
+filled with a veritable “White Squall,” consisting of clouds of flour,
+causing a general stampede.
+
+Next day we found our companion of yesterday lying at some distance
+ahead, while a stranger lay on the port quarter.  A curious instance of
+cross-signalling ensued.  The stranger asks our companion, the St.
+Vincent, for latitude and longitude.  The St. Vincent missing this, and
+intent on their investment in yesterday’s lottery, puts up, “What have we
+won?”  The reply, “Nothing.”  The stranger runs up, “Don’t understand.
+Repeat, please.”  Then St. Vincent replies, “Very sorry,” upon which our
+Captain signals the stranger, and removes all further doubt.
+
+We passed close to the Island of Tristan d’Acunha, which lies in the
+South Atlantic, lat. 37° 6′ S., long. 12° 7′ W.  As a curious little
+history attaches to the island, I make the following extract from our
+ship’s newspaper:
+
+“Tristan d’Acunha is a volcanic peak of very considerable altitude, so
+considerable indeed that its summit is covered almost perpetually with
+snow.  It rises sheer out of the water, and there is only a single
+landing-place on the whole island.  Previous to the downfall of Bonaparte
+it was uninhabited; but when that scourge was despatched to St. Helena,
+the British Government deemed it advisable to secure this isolated rock,
+and so prevent the French using it as a base of operations against the
+place of Napoleon’s internment.  A small company of soldiers, in charge
+of a corporal, was therefore despatched, and left in possession.
+
+“In 1821 Napoleon died, and the necessity for maintaining the garrison at
+Tristan existed no longer.  A man-of-war was accordingly sent to bring
+away the corporal and his little army.  But he and they had by this time
+comfortably settled down, tilled the—rock we were about to say—and
+produced excellent potatoes and other vegetables; raised pigs and goats,
+and having in some mysterious way obtained wives, had raised families
+too.  They were therefore extremely reluctant to leave the scene of their
+successful labours; and the English Government, nothing loth to encourage
+colonisation, at once gave the necessary permission to remain, and with
+it a small pension or annuity.
+
+“They have gone on flourishing and increasing, forming a useful and
+peaceable community in the very centre of the South Atlantic; useful
+because whalers and other vessels, by putting in there, are able to
+obtain fresh potatoes, vegetables, and pigs.  Little money is used,
+barter affording sufficient facility for interchange.
+
+“Crime is almost unknown.  We had as well said absolutely unknown, for it
+is doubtful whether the one case of dishonesty on record as such was not
+rather an ill-fared joke.  It seems that when a marriage takes place a
+pig is killed by the bride’s father, and dressed the night before the
+nuptials.  On the occasion referred to the pig disappeared before
+morning, and was traced to the house of a notorious wag, as to whose fate
+history is silent.  It is only fair to add that he admitted taking the
+pig, but protested that it had been done by way of a practical joke.  At
+one time a missionary existed in the midst of this innocent community,
+but he eventually disappeared—either died or was removed.  His place was
+never refilled, and the consequences have been rather trying to the
+budding men and women of Tristan, for whereas in the missionary’s days
+loving couples could be, to use a nautical phrase, “spliced,” when they
+had made up their minds, now they must wait until a chance man-o’-war,
+with a chaplain on board, puts in, and as their visits are nearly as rare
+as those of the angels, the patience of these Tristan lovers must
+unquestionably be sorely strained.  When, however, like some comet of
+very eccentric orbit, the parson does at length turn up, he finds plenty
+of ripe pairs ready—nay, eager—for him.
+
+“What a popular man that parson must be!  Last and most interesting fact.
+When the ‘Sobraon’ put in at Tristan in 1879 the corporal was still
+living, a venerable patriarch of ninety years.”
+
+After leaving Tristan we soon get “into the forties,” or as the sailors
+are wont to say, “the rolling forties,” where the westerly winds steadily
+prevail, and continue right on until we make Cape Leeuwin.  These winds
+cause the magnificent waves, or “rollers,” which tower up over the stern
+of the vessel, threatening, apparently, to overwhelm it.  In a gale of
+wind, and when the “following seas” are running at a high speed, it
+becomes necessary for some vessels to “lie to” in order to avoid this
+catastrophe.  We had an opportunity of seeing this operation.  Soon after
+passing the Cape we were overtaken by a heavy gale, and a high following
+sea.  Our vessel being a sailing ship of the old type, with broad bluff
+bows, necessitated our adopting that course.  Our stern was turned in the
+teeth of the wind and sea, and, with the exception of a top-sail and
+jib-sail, all our canvas was closely taken in.  She lay so all night
+labouring heavily, and the sea breaking over her decks.
+
+Soon after sighting Cape Otway vessels bound for Melbourne receive their
+pilot, whose advent is the occasion of great excitement among the betting
+fraternity.  Bets are laid on the colour of his hair and whiskers,
+whether or not he has a moustache, the letter with which his name begins,
+and which foot he will first put on deck.  As soon as he makes his
+appearance he is greeted with shouts of “What’s your name?”  Evidently he
+is accustomed to it, for he does not look surprised.  In this particular
+case everyone was out as to the colour of his hair and beard, for he had
+a black beard and white whiskers.  The pilot brought news of a general
+election in one of the colonies, and one of our passengers, a colonial
+statesman, eagerly asked him for papers.  The statesman’s countenance was
+expressive of blankness within when he saw he was beaten in his
+constituency—but soon brightened on hearing he was returned by another.
+
+The entrance to Hobson’s Bay is very narrow, and the distance therefrom
+to Melbourne is about 40 miles.  We landed soon after six on a January
+morning, and found the heat almost unbearable.  Taking a cab to our
+hotel, we made our first experience of the high charges in a
+Protectionist colony, for we were obliged to pay a guinea for this
+service.
+
+                        [Picture: IN THE TROPICS]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+When driving to the hotel we were struck with the deserted appearance of
+the streets, as very few persons were seen during our three miles’ ride
+from Sandridge.  It did not occur to us that this arose from the
+earliness of the hour, our day having commenced about three A.M., when we
+began to make preparations for landing; but, as will be seen, the fact
+became of startling significance to us.  While waiting for breakfast I
+took up the newspaper, and had not proceeded far before I came to an
+article headed “The Black Death in Melbourne.”  This article gave a
+detailed and circumstantial account of the progress of the disease, which
+was stated to have been raging for the past four or five weeks.  Among
+other things, the article stated that the number of deaths had become so
+great that it was impossible to dig separate graves; that the bodies were
+placed in trenches, one being dug each day; that all who could leave the
+city had fled; and that the mob had surrounded the Town Hall, demanding
+to see the Mayor and Corporation, who, however, had already disappeared.
+Getting alarmed, we rang for the waiter, and asked him how we could get
+to Adelaide.  He naturally enough seemed surprised, as we had only just
+arrived.  I told him it was too bad he had not warned us of the state of
+the city, and of the existence of the plague.  The man looked astonished.
+I asked him if there had not been great illness and mortality in the
+city.  He answered that there had been a few cases of measles, and a
+whooping-cough or two, and that six people had died during the last week
+from these causes.  I began to suspect we had been “sold,” and was about
+to pass the paper to him when I caught sight of an asterisk placed
+against the heading, and on looking at the foot of the column saw that
+the article was written as a prediction of what would happen in Melbourne
+within 100 years unless sanitary matters were at once attended to.
+
+Melbourne is a city of fine broad streets, handsome public buildings,
+splendid shops, and vast warehouses.  Indeed, a stranger cannot fail to
+be struck with its metropolitan-like character.  Only forty years ago the
+site on which it stands was a mere swamp with a few log huts; now its
+population is about the third of a million souls.  For this population a
+series of educational institutions of an unusually high character have
+been founded, and are in active operation.  The Free Library, which we
+visited, is a handsome room, and seems in every way well adapted to the
+requirements of a large number of students and readers.  We were
+impressed with the quietude which prevailed, notwithstanding that the
+room was well filled with readers, most of them apparently of the artisan
+class.  The Art Gallery is a free institution, and contains a very fair
+collection of good paintings.
+
+The Natural History Museum, which by the way is really a museum of
+general science, is a truly magnificent institution.  Very fine
+collections are here classified in a manner which, while perfectly lucid
+to the student, is also in strict accordance with the views of modern
+scientific authorities.  We noticed particularly a good collection of
+sedimentary fossils, well preserved and fairly comprehensive.  A fine
+meteorolite weighing 30 cwts., a portion of one weighing four tons which
+fell in Victoria a few years ago, is a prominent object near the
+entrance.  This museum, in common with the Art Gallery and Free Library,
+is the resort of vast numbers of students, and it is cheering to be
+informed that the working classes largely avail themselves of the
+advantages thus provided for them.
+
+As in the other Australian colonies, education here has been taken up in
+a vigorous and thorough manner, and the State schools are a credit to the
+colony.  Although the population of Victoria is under one million, we
+observed in Melbourne a school bearing the inscription No. 1465.  But
+with all this liberality and foresight, a strange blot exists in the
+educational course, for the study of history is, in deference to the
+prejudices of a portion of the population, absolutely interdicted.  It is
+impossible, however, that this absurd concession to ignorance can long be
+endured.  In leaving Aden on one occasion I began to have doubts as to
+whether geography was also excluded, for a young man, son of a well-to-do
+squatter, hearing me speak of Suez, asked which end of the canal that
+town stood at; and another youth, in passing the island of Candia, said
+he always thought _Canada_ was somewhere in America.
+
+Happily, no fears exist in Australia as to the policy of thoroughly
+educating the people; on the contrary, it is commonly recognised that the
+future prosperity of the State—indeed its very existence—depends upon the
+universal diffusion of education.
+
+At the time of our visit party feeling ran very high in connection with
+the doings of the “Berry” Ministry, and as extraordinary personalities
+were nightly being indulged in by both sides in the House, we went one
+evening to hear a “debate.”  The regular business seemed to be conducted
+as well as it is at Westminster, but it was curious to see the careless
+way in which the members, in brown holland or yellow silk coats, lay
+about on the sofas, or lazily lounged off to the table for frequent
+draughts of what was said to be iced water.  The shouts, cries, and
+interruptions were very unseemly, much worse than anything we had then
+experienced, giving us a very low opinion of the representatives of the
+people.  One honourable member, in the course of debate, hurled a heavy
+tome across the house at the head of one of his opponents with crushing
+effect, while another member characterised the smile of the Minister of
+Lands as being such as to “sour all the milk in the colony, and to take
+the varnish off all the mahogany in the house.”  This compliment the
+Minister lightly parried by remarking that anything coming from the son
+of a cabbage hawker could not affect him.
+
+The Melbourne legislators evidently do not believe in having “all work
+and no play,” they have consequently provided themselves—of course out of
+the public purse—with billiard tables, and, with a spirit of rare
+generosity and thoughtfulness, have made the parliamentary reporters for
+the Press free of the rooms.
+
+With such provision for their comfort, and with handsome salaries paid
+them for their services by a grateful country, what wonder that there
+should be considerable competition for seats within the walls of the
+Victorian House of Parliament? and with what feelings of commiseration
+must they regard their brethren of New South Wales, who, when one of
+their number recently proposed to imitate the example of Melbourne in the
+matter of billiard tables, were reminded, in unmistakable terms by their
+exacting constituents, that they were sent to Parliament to work and not
+to play!  And what makes the matter harder for the Sydney legislators is
+the fact that, unlike their Melbourne friends, they are not paid for
+their services.
+
+The question of the payment of Members of Parliament has acquired
+considerable interest in England of late, mainly in consequence of Mr.
+Chamberlain’s declaration in its favour; and it appears not unlikely that
+at no distant date it may be carried into effect.  There are two modes by
+which the object in view may be attained;—either by a general charge upon
+the Imperial Revenue, or by each constituency paying its own
+representative; in either case the amount of salary would be determined
+by Parliament; and, if the latter course be adopted, its payment would be
+made obligatory.  In Victoria the salaries are paid direct from the
+Treasury, and those who have seen how the system works are the least
+enthusiastic in its favour.
+
+Time was, when to be a Member of Parliament was looked upon as a certain
+way to repair a broken fortune, or to make a new one; but since the days
+when George III., of pious memory, taught his Ministers how to corrupt
+the Parliament, a seat in that assembly has not been considered to be
+pecuniarily advantageous.  But in some of the Australian colonies the
+case is different, politics being looked upon, to a great extent, as a
+trade or profession, and very largely because of the salary attached to
+the position of Members of the Legislature.
+
+One of my customers in Victoria, who had long owed me £50, told me he
+would soon be able to discharge his debt as he had been nominated for
+Parliament, and would pay me out of his first quarter’s salary!  It is
+only fair to say that, although he failed to secure the seat, he
+nevertheless paid his debt.
+
+The Houses of Parliament stand on a slight elevation, and though still
+unfinished, promise to be a magnificent pile of buildings, of which many
+an old-established country, with far greater pretensions than Victoria,
+might well be proud.  The Great Hall, a sort of ante-chamber to the
+Houses, impressed me as much as any building of the kind I had ever seen.
+It is about 180ft. long, by 60ft. wide, and 60ft. high, without
+galleries, seats, or anything to detract from its magnificent
+proportions.  The whole surface of the walls and roof is covered with a
+beautiful enamel-like cement, brilliantly white and polished quite
+smooth, the floor being of white marble, and a superb white marble statue
+of the Queen in the centre.  The whole effect is startlingly beautiful.
+I subsequently went over the Town Hall and Council Chamber, but these are
+much inferior to corresponding buildings in Birmingham.  The councillors
+wear cocked hats and gold-braided coats, and the aldermen black stuff
+gowns or robes.
+
+I have already spoken of the tension in party politics at the time of our
+visit.  This was seized upon by the theatrical people, who produced an
+adaptation of the burlesque known in England as “Happy Land,” the
+principal characters being Mr. Berry—the Premier, the man with the
+caustic smile, and another prominent member of the Administration.  On
+the morning of the day on which the first representation was to have been
+given, a Cabinet Council was hastily summoned, and the question gravely
+debated as to whether the safety of the State, or at any rate the
+Cabinet, would not be compromised by tolerating the performance.  It was
+quickly and unanimously decided to prohibit it, and this decision was
+announced.  Such a universal storm of ridicule was thus aroused that the
+infatuated Berryites were driven to reconsider their course, ultimately
+licensing an emasculated version of the play, with all the political
+references erased.  The newspapers, ever alive to the chance of turning a
+penny, and showing up an opponent, published the original _in extenso_,
+and when the performance began large numbers of the audience had copies
+before them.  When an excised passage was reached, the actor or actress
+would pause, and, holding up the hand, whisper audibly, “Hush!
+prohibited,” giving time for those with copies to read the obnoxious
+reference.  For days after people in the street would, on meeting, put up
+the finger, and greet each other with “Hush! prohibited.”  The Government
+were overwhelmed with ridicule, and were glad to compromise with the
+persons they had so injudiciously provoked.
+
+During the summer Melbourne is occasionally visited by what are called
+“hot winds.”  They blow from the north, and derive much of their arid
+character from coming over the great wastes of the interior.  We were
+unlucky enough to experience one of these hot winds, and we subsequently
+learned that the shade temperature had reached 117°—as high a point, I
+believe, as any that had previously been recorded in the city.  It is no
+exaggeration to say that while exposed to the wind it felt like the hot
+blast from the cupola of a foundry when iron is being melted.  The
+clothes were little or no protection against its scorching influence.
+The air was filled with choking clouds of dust, which penetrated
+everything and everywhere.  In the evening, however, the wind fell off,
+leaving the temperature very high.
+
+The sanitary arrangements in Melbourne are extremely defective, and to my
+mind fully justify the writer of the article on the “Black Death,” which
+so much startled us on our arrival there.  There is literally no system
+of sewerage, the whole drainage of the town running by the side of the
+pathways in wide ill-paved channels, crossed by wooden foot bridges.  The
+whole runs into the river Yarra.  In heavy rains these channels become
+surcharged, and the lower-lying streets are flooded with diluted sewage.
+On such an occasion I was crossing one of these gutters, when a
+street-sweeper approached, holding his cap in one hand and his broom in
+the other, and asked me to remember “an old shipmate, your honour.”  I
+soon recognised him as our old friend “Tall and Fat”.  I could not help
+looking surprised, whereat he assured me he had found a most excellent
+berth as a street-sweeper—that none but gentlemen were engaged in the
+“profession,” all being Oxford or Cambridge men—the wages being 7s. per
+day.  I asked after his friend “Short and Stout.”  He said he held a
+similar appointment at an adjoining corner, and he promised to share my
+gratuity with him.
+
+The country between Melbourne and Ballarat is flat and somewhat
+uninteresting, but near the latter city it becomes more hilly and
+diversified.  Ballarat is a well-built city, containing about 40,000
+inhabitants.  A few years ago there were 10,000 more, but in consequence
+of the alluvial gold becoming exhausted a considerable exodus took place.
+The streets are wide, and have trees on each side; in some there are
+trees in the middle as well.  The houses are substantially built of stone
+or brick, and altogether it has the air of being a busy and prosperous
+place.
+
+We visited one of the gold mines, and as we approached the office saw
+three persons coming towards it, one of them carrying a parcel, which
+appeared to be heavy.  It proved to be a brick of gold weighing 33 lbs.,
+and worth about £1,200, being the result of one week’s working.  We were
+shown the various processes of obtaining the gold from the quartz, and
+were rather surprised at the somewhat primitive character of the
+machinery employed.
+
+                      [Picture: Gold Mine, Ballarat]
+
+Several of the companies with big-sounding names occupy spaces of only
+60ft. by 50ft., and yet yield substantial returns.  One such little patch
+is part of the Church land, and is called “Hallelujah Claim,” in honour
+of the Church.  The total value of gold raised in Australia up to end of
+1879 was 275 millions sterling.
+
+One of the prettiest features of this handsome city is a fine sheet of
+water called Lake Wendouree.  This lake is about a mile across, and lies
+in the crater of an extinct volcano.  The Botanical Gardens are on the
+farther side of Wendouree, which has a fine boulevard round each side
+leading thereto.  On the lake are several pretty little steamers, which
+make frequent excursions.  In the evening they are provided with coloured
+lamps, and music and dances may be enjoyed by the passengers.  Ballarat
+is less than thirty years old, yet has quite an old-world appearance.  It
+is a charming city and well worth a visit, and we were well pleased to
+have seen it.
+
+A favourite excursion from Melbourne is to the Black Spur Mountains,
+about two days’ drive from the city.  Leaving Melbourne the route passes
+through some miles of suburban villa residences with beautiful gardens.
+After about ten miles “the bush” is reached, and continues for the
+remainder of the journey, relieved here and there by a clearing or by a
+little village.  The term “bush” must not be understood as scrub, furze,
+etc., but all kinds of uncultivated land, thick forests, and open
+country.  A curious feature of colonial life is to see in full operation
+the old stage coaches, so long ago discarded in England.  They are
+painted a brilliant red, and indeed appear to be the veritable machines
+used in the “good old days when George the Third was king.”  They are
+frequently drawn by six or more horses, and, true to their ancient
+traditions, now and then have a spill, for roadmakers in the Colonies
+have the same habit as their English brethren of making short “right
+about turns” at the bottom of steep hills.  We drew up at a small wayside
+inn, intending to bait the horses, but found it was closed, owing to the
+death of the landlord.  This man was a large wine grower, and his
+vineyards extended for a considerable distance round his house.  After
+passing through many miles of country under vine cultivation we pulled up
+for the night at a little village called Healesville, where a very
+miscellaneous company sat down to a substantial repast, ending with what
+the waiter called a “soafler.”  The light being dim it was difficult to
+see what the dish really was, and curiosity being awakened, inquiry
+elicited the fact that it was intended for a soufflé.  The hotel being
+quite full of visitors, two of our party had to sleep in the parlour on
+sofas of the horse-hair order.  The landlord, coming in to see if we were
+all right, informed us we could not have our boots cleaned in the
+morning, as his man was just then out on a boose.  A colonial friend
+travelling with us remarked that it was “awkward when master or man took
+to boosing.”  Our friend had previously told us that the landlord was
+generally “on that line.”  “You never saw me boosy!” said he.  “_Never_!”
+retorted our friend, with peculiar emphasis, which summarily stopped the
+discussion.  We were awakened early in the morning by the screams of
+laughing jackasses and the crowing of cocks.  Our toilette was performed
+somewhat under difficulties, one of us having to use the piano as a
+washstand, and another being constrained to go through the same operation
+in the open street under the hotel verandah.  Our route now lay over a
+steep hill, through a forest of gum trees, the fragrance arising from the
+latter in the early morning air being delightfully refreshing.  The main
+roads are kept very fairly, a certain number of men being told off for
+each section at 9s. per day wages.  The old corduroy roads, formed by
+laying trees across the track and filling the interstices with earth, are
+being gradually superseded by Macadam.  The men seemed to work in very
+leisurely fashion.  We were to have breakfasted at a cottage on the road,
+but when we arrived there found that the old lady who kept it had gone to
+a ball at some village public-house, several miles away, as also had the
+owners of all the other cottages along the route.  A little girl left in
+charge told us that after the ball all these good people were going to
+the funeral of the wine grower and innkeeper previously mentioned, and
+our friend told us they would doubtless stay there to comfort the widow
+as long as there was any wine left in the house.  We soon after entered
+the region of the big gum trees and of the tree ferns, and a wonderfully
+beautiful sight it was.
+
+                          [Picture: A Big Tree]
+
+The whole valley is filled with tree ferns, and the fronds, in many cases
+being new, with the sunlight falling upon them, formed a picture not soon
+to be forgotten.  Some of the gum trees were enormously large—we saw
+several 15ft. in diameter and over 200ft. in height—but these were small
+when compared with some found in the less frequented parts.  In the midst
+of such surroundings lies the pretty little village of Fernshaw.  When we
+were first invited to spend a week at the country house of our friend we
+rather unreasonably pictured in our minds an English country or seaside
+residence, and anticipated much pleasure in the change from dusty
+Melbourne.  Our surprise was great, therefore, when after jolting over
+some half-formed roads we came upon a clearing among the gum trees, and
+were told that the wooden shanty before us was the Melbourne citizen’s
+country house.  We were not disposed, however, to be very critical, for
+the sixty miles drive in the mountain air had made us hungry, and we were
+quite ready to respond to the invitation to the evening meal.  But our
+disillusion was complete upon entering the sitting room and finding that
+no provision had been made for the satisfying of our keen appetites.  By
+some accident the supplies from Melbourne had not arrived; the rough
+table was covered with a couple of towels, and on it was spread a repast
+consisting of some bad bread and sour raspberry jam, while the “cup which
+cheers but not inebriates” was innocent of milk and sugar.  It was
+Saturday evening and we were “out of humanity’s reach,” being many miles
+from any source of supply, so had to content ourselves as best we might
+with this Spartan fare until the Monday, when our host proposed an
+excursion to a distant part, involving the staying a night at an hotel.
+We gladly embraced the proposal, and finding that the hotel was a
+comfortable one I determined to excuse myself from joining in the
+excursion on the following day in order that I might have the opportunity
+of recruiting nature’s exhausted powers by an extra meal, a resolution I
+had much satisfaction in carrying into effect.  Our friend and his sons
+own about one thousand acres, at present covered with trees, with the
+exception of a small clearing round the house.  When a piece of land is
+taken, the first care is to fence it, which is done with logs, at a cost
+of £25 per mile, including the cutting of the logs.  The next step is to
+“ring” the trees—that is, to cut a deep groove round them, and so by
+killing them prevent any further exhaustion of the soil.  The trees being
+dead, vegetation rapidly springs up, and there is soon abundance of food
+for cattle.  Clearing the ground of trees and stumps is a very costly
+operation, and takes many years to finally accomplish.  The Government
+with a view of preventing the accumulation of lands in a few hands,
+refuse to sell more than 320 acres to one person, but of course this is
+easily evaded.  At the time of our visit the price was £1 per acre,
+payable in ten years by equal instalments, a condition being that some
+one should reside upon the allotment.  At the end of three years the
+owner can obtain from Government a lease of the land, and can then pay up
+the full value, which leaves him at liberty to sell if he wishes to do
+so.  Of course the building up of large estates is thus encouraged, but
+this could, perhaps, be prevented by imposing a tax on every acre.  The
+20,000 acre men would soon be compelled to dispose of some of the land
+which they hold in the expectation that it will increase in value.  Such
+a plan has been proposed, but it naturally met with great opposition from
+the landed interest.
+
+                       [Picture: On the Black Spur]
+
+Leaving our friend’s house a drive of a few miles through the bush
+brought us to the picturesquely-situated village of Marysville.  This
+little village lies in a deep hollow surrounded by fine ranges of
+tree-clad hills of extreme beauty.  A pleasant hour’s walk from the
+village, under the shade of the tree ferns, took us to the Stephenson
+Falls.  The principal fall is 80ft., and the volume of water is unusually
+large for an Australian waterfall.  Close to the fall are some
+magnificently large tree ferns, and while sitting here enjoying the
+lovely view some little birds came flitting about, one of them hopping on
+to the shoulder of one of our party, attracted, doubtless, by the aroma
+of a fragrant “weed” which at the time he was enjoying.  English visitors
+to Australia, especially those in search of health, would find the
+conditions existing at Marysville most conducive to their restoration.
+The air is bracing, and as before stated, the scenery most delightful.  A
+tolerably good accommodation is to be had at the inn, which will
+doubtless be improved as the place becomes more widely known.
+
+Returning to Melbourne, we stayed another night at Healesville, arriving
+at 7.30, and as we had fared badly during the day we were quite ready for
+a substantial dinner, and from our previous experience of the house made
+no doubt of obtaining it.  But unfortunately for us, there had been a
+chapel tea-party during the afternoon, at which a large force of parsons
+had been present.  We had therefore to be content with a tough, woody
+steak, a wild duck of ancient and fish-like smell, varied by salted
+mutton.  The butter was rancid and full of dead flies, and the bread
+appeared to have been cast upon the waters.  We had to go to bed feeling
+quite faint, but hoping for a better breakfast.  The beds were good, and
+we should have had a good night’s rest, which we sorely needed after the
+twig beds of the previous night at the Marysville Hotel, but the
+partitions between the rooms being only of half-inch plank everything
+passing around us could be heard all too plainly.  A little after
+midnight some fellows came in from night-fishing, and going into the room
+next ours woke us up by a great noise.  One old donkey was telling the
+two younger ones he had had a deal of experience among snakes, killing as
+many as eight a day for many years, and that as the result of a series of
+experiments during that time he had found an infallible cure for snake
+bites.  He had offered his discovery to the Government for £1,000, and
+his partner offered to be poisoned by the most deadly snakes to test its
+efficacy, but all to no purpose.  So he had determined to let the secret
+die with him.  The others asked if the sovereign remedy was to be
+swallowed.  “Oh, no,” said the old fellow, “for it is composed of five
+deadly poisons.  You must first cut out the wounded part, and rub the
+antidote in.  But,” added he, “the secret shall now die with me.”  “But
+how about your partner?” asked the others.  “Won’t he tell the secret?”
+“Oh no,” was the reply; “he’s safe enough, for he’s dead.”  Then we heard
+the voice of the landlord’s pretty daughter telling them it was time to
+go to sleep, upon which the old boy growled, “I wonder people can’t go to
+sleep without bothering me.”  The rest of the night was made miserable
+for us by the two “night fishers,” who, rising long before dawn, went
+prowling about the different rooms, ours included, collecting their
+tackle for a shooting expedition, but leaving behind them, as we found
+afterwards, their percussion caps.
+
+                         [Picture: The Lyre Bird]
+
+We returned to Melbourne by another route, affording us some fine views
+of the plains called Yarra Flats, and the Marysville Hills in the far
+distance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+At the end of January we left Melbourne for a few weeks’ tour in
+Tasmania, taking steamer from the wharf on the Yarra Yarra, the river
+upon which the capital of Victoria is situated.
+
+The banks of the Yarra have been selected as the scene of the operations
+of all the most offensive trades in the colony—the bone boilers, tanners,
+fellmongers, candle makers, chemical manure makers, glue manufacturers,
+etc., in addition to which all the sewage which is not left on the
+surface of the streets is run into it.  The river is very narrow, the
+fall to the sea extremely slight, and the traffic great, hence at every
+revolution of the paddle-wheel or screw-propeller the abominations from
+the depths below are stirred up and mingled with those coming from the
+before-named savoury factories, forming a more horrible compound than
+ever proceeded from witches’ cauldron.  In this one respect the New World
+has certainly shot far ahead of the old, for even the memory of ancient
+Cologne is made savoury to the nostrils by this colonial stench.
+
+Our friends came to say good-bye, and brought quite a sack of peaches and
+apricots, which were very acceptable during the voyage.  If there were on
+board any roysterers or betting men they had no opportunity for
+displaying their peculiarities.  Until we reached the entrance to the
+river Tamar almost every person on board was ill, for Bass’s Straits is
+notorious for its disagreeable cross seas.
+
+Launceston is forty miles up the river, and is the capital of the county
+of Cornwall, as in England.  The scenery along the river banks is very
+beautiful, and is so exactly like the Truro river at home that it is
+difficult to believe we are out of England.  The river is winding and
+broad, and the shores slope gently down from high ground covered with
+trees.  Here and there are bright green meadows and villages and
+scattered farmsteads and churches.  I saw nothing in Victoria to compare
+with it.
+
+Launceston, a quiet city of 10,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by hills.
+Looking down upon it, one is reminded of Florence from Fiesole, the
+beautiful climate and clear air being quite Italian, with the lovely
+Tamar winding its circuitous route for miles away.  We drove out towards
+a place called the “Devil’s Punch Bowl,” walking the last mile through a
+beautiful wood down a hill, with firs, gum trees, etc., in abundance,
+with here and there delightful glimpses of green glades.  The air was
+filled with the sounds of the tree locusts and the tremendous hissing
+noise of the cicadas, the sun shining through the trees and producing a
+temperature and light which were simply perfect.  The only drawback is
+the presence of snakes, which, our driver said, are very abundant here.
+The scene is truly English.  At the bottom of the little wooded valley we
+came upon an old wooden shanty, where we tried to get a glass of milk,
+but there was no one at home.  Presently an old man appeared, driving
+cows.  We asked him for milk—he had none, but gave us water, and offered
+raw eggs.  My companion took two, and said he liked them, but I am sure
+he liked the first best.  The old man was seventy-three years of age, and
+lived there alone, sleeping on a door covered with an opossum rug.  He
+told us his master died there close by the bee-hives a few weeks ago,
+“so,” said he, “I put the bees in deep mourning, or they would all have
+left.”
+
+I wrote my notes sitting on a gatepost, out of the way of snakes; the
+moon shone brightly, and in the distance I could hear the church bells,
+mingled with the voices of children, the tinkling of cowbells, and
+barking of dogs.
+
+The shops close at six o’clock, but the public-houses of course remain
+open.  I observed a small fruit-shop, a mere shanty, with the sign of
+“Pomona’s Temple,” and a hairdresser’s saloon with the high-sounding name
+of “Tonsorial Palace,” while a democratic opponent in the same street,
+with a proud humility, called his place of business a “Barber’s Shop.”
+
+Strolling in the town one evening I talked with a policeman, who was an
+almost exact counterpart of Count Moltke.  He had just received his new
+regulation helmet, and did not like it at all: it was hard and heavy.  He
+was very pleased to hear we liked Tasmania better than Victoria.  “Ah,”
+said he, “you will find real hospitality here; here everybody helps
+everybody, but in Melbourne everybody helps himself, and the bobby or
+somebody catches the hindmost.”  He said he had been a policeman for
+twenty years, and, “although I say it as shouldn’t, I will say for the
+Launceston police, they are the most civillest, honestest body of
+policemen going,” with which I quite agreed.
+
+Another beautiful ride is to the Cora Linn, seven miles from Launceston.
+On one side of the road, stretching almost the whole distance, is a hedge
+of sweetbriar, giving forth delicious perfume.  It is difficult to get
+accustomed to the reversal of the seasons; here in February the farmers
+are busy cutting and saving their corn, but with no fear of rain to spoil
+their harvest, as in England.  A bridge crosses the Linn, and a
+cataract-like stream tumbles down over rocks, very much like the Lynn at
+Lynmouth.  Below the bridge is a deep basin, and all around are numbers
+of queer trees, young and old, with many burnt-out trunks black as
+negroes, with white spots in them like eyes.  The trees and shrubs are
+full of _cicadas_ making a great noise.
+
+Leaving Launceston, we drove to Falmouth, ninety miles away.  The road
+lies through a beautifully-wooded country; indeed, the entire ride is
+just like going through a park in England.  We saw lots of magpies, very
+much larger than ours, but quite as mischievous.  A gentleman told us a
+person once asked him to change a sovereign, which he did, and then
+looked for the sovereign, but it could not be seen.  Presently, looking
+up, he saw Master Mag in a shrub, with one eye shut, his head on one
+side, and standing on one leg, with the piece of gold in his mouth.
+
+Our first night’s stopping-place was at Stoney Creek, where there is a
+comfortable hotel, just like a private house, with only one other house
+for miles around.  Near to the hotel flows the River Esk, a black,
+silent, swiftly-flowing and suicidal-looking stream, suggestive in its
+motion of some huge black snake, of which there are many in the
+neighbourhood.  In crossing a field to look at the river our clothes
+became covered with burrs and spines from the prickly pear.  We sat down
+on a grassy mound to watch the flowing of the river, but had quickly to
+move, as we found ourselves in the midst of a colony of great ants.  The
+following verses were written on the occasion by one of my companions:
+
+                [Picture: THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES—A POEM]
+
+                                 THOU AND I.
+
+    Thou art in happy England
+       With peace, content, and joy,
+    And there no poisonous reptiles
+       Thy comfort can destroy;
+    No hissing sound the startled ear
+       With fear of death awakes—
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, in the land of snakes.
+
+    About thy household duties
+       Serenely thou canst go,
+    No fear of fierce tarantulas
+       Or scorpion brings thee woe;
+    And day by day flows calmly on,
+       And sleep wings through the night—
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, where mosquitos bite.
+
+    Thou hast the trusty faithful dog,
+       The quiet, harmless cat,
+    But I the fierce Tasmanian D—,
+       Opossum, and wombat;
+    Familiar objects greet thy sight,
+       Here all is strange and new—
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, with the kangaroo.
+
+    Thou hast the blithe canary,
+       The robin chirps to thee,
+    While here the magpies chatter
+       And rail from every tree;
+    Bright parrots glint beneath the sun,
+       And shriek their hideous song—
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, wattle-birds among.
+
+    Thou canst recline in any place,
+       And watch the moments pass,
+    Here burrs and prickles fill the clothes
+       While lying on the grass,
+    They stick into the flesh, and sting
+       Like gnat, or wasp, or bee—
+    But thou in happy England
+       From all such plagues art free.
+
+    Hurrah for happy England,
+       For all the folk at home!
+    From hill and dale resounds the cry,
+       No matter where we roam.
+    Rare scenes of beauty greet the sight,
+       The balmy air is sweet,
+    But still I sigh for England
+       Where thou and I shall meet.
+
+    DR. L—.
+
+The landlady was a widow, her husband having recently died.  Her son had
+just returned from sea, where he had been for twelve years.  He had been
+wrecked three times, and the last time should have given him enough of
+the sea for the rest of his life.  It was in the ship “Euxine,” taking
+3,000 tons of coal to the Mauritius.  She took fire off the Cape of Good
+Hope in the midst of a terrific storm.  The captain was washed overboard
+and drowned; a sailor was also swept away, and while only twenty feet
+from the ship was attacked by a flock of albatrosses, right in sight of
+his comrades.  He fought with them, but all in vain, and the wretches
+literally pulled him in pieces with their strong bills in a very few
+minutes.  The crew got out the boats, but of course they were in a bad
+state.  It was, however, a choice between burning and drowning, so they
+put off, preferring to risk the latter.  After two or three days, two of
+the boats were picked up, but the third was out for eleven days.  The
+poor wretches on board had nothing whatever to eat, and in their
+extremity were driven to cast lots which among them should die.  One
+unhappy man was disposed of, and in two hours after a ship came in sight
+and picked them up.
+
+A lovely drive through Epping Forest brought us to Avoca, where “the
+bright waters meet,” the North and South Esk uniting here.  Our route lay
+along a fine road, through avenues of gum trees, wattles (acacias),
+cultivated for their bark, the sweetbriars and hawthorns scenting the air
+delightfully.  We saw a splendid eagle, and large numbers of parrots,
+magpies, and hawks.
+
+                             [Picture: Avoca]
+
+On our way we passed many residences of great woolgrowers, owning as much
+as 20,000 acres of land each, but living, for the most part, in England,
+their affairs in the Colony being managed by agents.  They keep only one
+man on each 5,000 acres.  There is scarcely any agriculture, although the
+land is very suitable, but being taken up in this way, there is no room
+for population to increase, and the people have to emigrate.
+
+At Fingal we stopped at an hotel, kept by an Irishman married to a
+Jewess.  They presided at either end of the table, and kept us short of
+food; indeed, I never saw a small joint go so far before.  Next day we
+left the hotel, still hungry, although the charges were quite as high as
+those at the Great Western Hotel, Paddington.
+
+Soon after leaving Fingal we saw something by the roadside which looked
+very like a snake, and on examining it we found it was one—a black snake,
+4ft. 6in. long.  It lay perfectly still, and presently we found it was
+dead; but the sensation was not pleasant.  A gentleman at the hotel told
+us he had killed four the night previously, and doubtless this was one of
+them.
+
+                          [Picture: St. Mary’s]
+
+After passing through the charming village of St. Mary’s, embowered in
+trees, we entered a lovely avenue, two miles in length, filled with
+beautiful flowers and ferns, the air laden with scents from the gum and
+other trees, and on emerging came upon St. Mary’s Pass.  This is an
+immense gorge, four miles long, filled with fine trees, the road, which
+is remarkably good, being cut in the side of the cliff by convicts in the
+old days of Van Diemen’s Land.  It winds down the valley to the sea at
+Falmouth, and on either side rise lofty hills, while the valley below is
+1,000 feet deep, and filled with immense trees of various kinds,
+including the tree fern.  I have seen most of the passes and valleys in
+the Tyrol, but have never seen one to excel this in grandeur or beauty.
+
+                        [Picture: Falmouth Hotel]
+
+In the map the word “Falmouth” was printed in rather large letters, so we
+expected to find a somewhat considerable place.  At the head of the pass
+we were told the township lay between the foot of the hill and the sea.
+On getting down the hill we could plainly view the sea and the
+intervening land, but no town was visible.  Inquiring of some little boys
+the way to Falmouth, they directed us away to the right.  We went on,
+feeling assured we were going wrong; and presently, meeting a gentleman,
+we inquired again, when he told us to retrace our course, to go through
+an ordinary field gate, and that we should then get to Falmouth in three
+minutes!  We told him that the little boys had directed us the other way,
+but he said we should have asked for “Hotel.”  The town of Falmouth,
+where the boys lived, consisted of two or three houses, and was a mile
+from the hotel.  On exploring the place next day we were informed that
+fifty years before it was much more important than now.  Miles of streets
+were marked out, but were grass-grown, and there were not more than a
+dozen houses in the place, all built of wood, and of one storey in
+height.  The burying-place for the district is about a mile away, on the
+open common, each grave being surrounded with stakes, with no wall or
+fence enclosing the whole.  It was a melancholy sight, reminding me
+strongly of the graves on the battlefields of the Franco-German war.
+
+                   [Picture: Burial-Place at Falmouth]
+
+The beach and sands are very fine, like those of my native county.  The
+bathing is delightful, but you must keep a sharp look out for sharks.
+One morning, however, while bathing, we stood in much greater danger from
+the mad folly of some Cockneys who had recently come to the hotel.  We
+had been bathing in an arm of the sea, the point beyond which it was not
+safe being marked by a stake driven into the sand.  Between our bathing
+place and the hotel was a high sand bank, screening us from sight, the
+stake being visible from the verandah of the hotel.  After dressing, we
+were leisurely walking up the sandbank towards the hotel, when we were
+startled by a bullet passing between our heads and lodging in the sand
+behind us!  We threw up our towels and shouted, and then saw the Cockney
+sportsman standing on the platform under the verandah, from whence he had
+been aiming at the stake in the sand with his rifle for the past half
+hour.  On examination we found the sand riddled with bullets, not 50ft.
+from where we had been bathing.  The little burying ground possessed a
+new significance in our eyes after this incident.  We found some
+beautiful sea-shells during a delightful walk along the beach towards
+Swansea, and on our return called upon the gentleman who put us right for
+Falmouth on our arrival.  He is a farmer from near Oxford, and had been
+here seven or eight years, finding it a terribly lonely place.  Recently
+his nine children and his servants took the measles, and his wife being
+ill, he had to nurse them all.  When they got well his wife sickened and
+died, leaving him with seven daughters and two sons, the eldest being
+only fourteen years old.  The nearest doctor lived more than thirty miles
+away.
+
+In order to get to Hobart Town, we had to retrace our steps some sixty
+miles, as there is only one road on this side of the island.  We stayed a
+night at Avoca, a charming place, but the roads were a foot deep in dust.
+Although the climate is so fine, and everything favours the growth of
+fruit, there is very little grown.  It is alleged that fruit trees do not
+prosper, but I had ample evidence that the cause is to be found in the
+indifference or laziness of the people.  Strolling in the neighbourhood
+of the village, we came upon a beautiful orchard, and were admiring the
+large, ripe plums, when a voice behind said, “Walk in, gentlemen, and
+help yourselves.”  The speaker was a hearty old man, who had lived here
+forty-six years.  He came from Ledbury, and was much interested in
+hearing about Birmingham.  He told us that the day before he left England
+he walked from Ledbury to Birmingham to see the Nelson statue in the Bull
+Ring.
+
+The old man told us a snake story, which strikingly illustrates the
+vitality of these reptiles.  A short time previously he and his son went
+across a neighbouring mountain on horseback to visit one of their farms.
+Going “single file” between the trees, the son, who was leading, suddenly
+called out to his father, “Look out, there’s a snake,” and at the same
+instant his horse started.  The old gentleman got off, and finding it was
+a “carpet snake,”—one of the most venomous species—caught up a stick, and
+aimed a blow at it.  The stick however was rotten, and broke without
+hurting the reptile, which now prepared to strike; but the old man
+managed to get his heel upon its head, and ground it into the earth; and
+having, as he thought, killed it, tied a piece of string around its
+middle, and bending a wattle tree down, attached the end of the string to
+one of the branches, and then released the tree.  They thought no more of
+the matter until three days after, when two of his men, returning from
+his farm with a cart, were seen by their master dragging a snake behind
+the cart.  He asked them where they caught it; they explained that while
+coming down the hill side, their attention was arrested by a snake in a
+tree clashing towards them, but unable to release itself.  On
+examination, they found it was tied up!  “So that after all,” said the
+old man, “it was only scotched, not killed.”
+
+A fellow-traveller on the coach told us that he was coming from the tin
+mines near Mount Bischoff, and that for some months he and his partner
+had slept in hammocks slung from trees.  One night, just as he was going
+to sleep, something dropped from the tree across his body.  He took it in
+his hand, and finding it was a snake, he flung it from him, when it
+alighted on his companion.  Luckily, both escaped unhurt.  He also told
+me of the experience of a friend of his, a Government surveyor, who was
+frequently in the woods for weeks together, with one or two men.  This
+gentleman slept in a hammock suspended from trees.  The hammock was in
+reality a sack, hanging some feet from the ground, into which he got at
+night.  One night he had retired as usual, and being very wearied, did
+not at once notice that there was independent movement at his feet.  Very
+soon, however, he realised the fact that a snake had gone to bed before
+him, and was coiling itself round his legs.  The gentleman quickly got
+out, unhurt, and soon killed the snake.
+
+I also read in a colonial paper another account of a night adventure with
+a snake.  A lady had retired to rest, and was fast asleep; the weather
+being very hot, one of her arms was outside the clothes, and during the
+night she was awakened by feeling something trying to force its way
+between her arm and her side; she quickly realised the situation, and
+without moving, tightly pressed her arm against her body and prevented
+the venomous reptile from getting between, when presently it glided over
+her shoulder and fell on the floor with a thud.  She was soon out of bed
+at the other end, and calling for help and a light the snake was quickly
+despatched.
+
+The doctor in this place has charge of a district sixty miles in
+diameter, and always expects his fees before leaving his house; but
+although he has so large a district, I question if he makes his fortune,
+for although acres are many, people are few, and the salubrity of the
+climate does not favour the medical profession.
+
+The main road between Launceston and Hobart is struck at Willis’s Corner,
+a few miles from Campbelltown—the principal town in the interior of the
+island.  There is a station here on the main-line railway.  The gauge of
+the line is thirty-nine inches, I think.
+
+Campbelltown is a straggling place, with streets enough laid out for a
+city, but with only few houses, and it is not likely many more will be
+built, as the railway is expected to take away its trade, which depends
+mainly upon the coach traffic.  The streets are about one hundred and
+twenty feet wide, which is greatly in excess of all requirements, and
+causes the traffic to run in ruts, instead of being distributed over the
+roadway, giving a desolate appearance to the whole place.  As a rule, the
+Tasmanian roads are very good, having been made in the old days by
+convict labour, but you must not venture to mention the word “convict;”
+the people all speak of these public works as having been executed by
+Government.  Having had so much done for them by the Government, the
+Tasmanian people are lacking in energy, and are much too prone to rely
+upon outside help; and yet when Melbourne people come over to invest
+capital in mines and other industries, the cry is that the strangers are
+taking all the money out of the country.  As I have said, the farms are
+of a great size, but the number of men engaged are but few.  The farmers
+have two great enemies—the thistle and the rabbit.  It is said the former
+was introduced into the colonies by a patriotic Scotchman, to remind him
+of his bonnie Scotland, the rabbit being introduced for the purpose of
+sport; but, like our old friend the sparrow, they have so increased as to
+be the cause of serious loss, and are the subjects of special
+legislation.  Some landowners spend many thousands of pounds in putting
+walls around their estates to keep the rabbits out.
+
+From Campbelltown to Hobart is seventy-six miles, and we rode the whole
+distance in a single day.  The country is very beautiful, and towards the
+end of the journey we had fine mountain and river scenery.  The Derwent
+is a splendid river, running through a lovely country, sometimes through
+rich pasture lands and hop gardens, and at other times between high
+precipices and rugged country.
+
+Mount Wellington is a remarkably fine mountain of 4,000 feet in height,
+and is topped with snow for a considerable portion of the winter.
+
+                  [Picture: Summit of Mount Wellington]
+
+Villages are very scarce on the road, and shops few, so the inhabitants
+get most of their requirements from hawkers, who visit all parts of the
+island with horses and vans, carrying all kinds of goods.  We passed
+several with their wares spread out on the ground.  Our coachman told us
+rather a good story of two of these “merchants,” as they are usually
+called.  These men travelled the road together as partners, having a
+standing agreement between them that only one should get drunk at a time,
+so that they were not unfrequently seen riding, one of them as drunk as a
+lord or a fiddler, while the other was perfectly sober, but merry.  One
+day, however, they broke the rule, and both got drunk together, letting
+their horse go just as it liked.  Unhappily, as they were turning a
+corner in the road, a coach came bowling along and ran into them,
+breaking their van and many of their bones, besides spoiling most of
+their stock-in-trade.  The coachman could not tell us if the accident had
+the effect of making the men teetotallers.
+
+              [Picture: View in the Public Gardens, Hobart]
+
+Hobart (as Hobart Town is now called) is most beautifully situated, with
+extensive public gardens, charmingly laid out, and having the advantage
+of an abundance of water from the River Derwent.  The Governor’s house is
+admirably placed, commanding extensive views of river and mountain
+scenery.  The citizens are exceedingly hospitable, and we were not long
+at the hotel before we were visited by a gentleman who informed us he had
+entered our names on the books of the principal club, and also invited us
+to a grand representation of “Martha.”  There are many charming
+excursions in the neighbourhood of Hobart.  One of the most beautiful is
+to New Norfolk, about two and a half hours’ steam up the Derwent river.
+As we approach New Norfolk the river gets very narrow, and we pass
+through a part called “Hell Gates,” having steep lofty cliffs on one
+side, and a beautiful tongue of land with trees and lovely green grass on
+the other.  The name I thought particularly ill chosen.
+
+The village of New Norfolk is prettily situated among the hills, with the
+lovely Derwentwater at its feet.  Its principal industry is the growing
+of hops.  We went into the gardens, and saw the people busily picking the
+hops, which were very fine.
+
+Another beautiful excursion is to Fern Tree Valley, a lovely spot with a
+fine avenue of tree ferns, and with many immense gum trees in the
+surrounding woods.
+
+There being no steamer to Sydney or Melbourne for a week, we drove over
+the road to Launceston, 120 miles distant.  Soon after leaving Hobart we
+crossed the River Jordan, passed through Jericho, near to Jerusalem,
+stopping at Bagdad for breakfast.
+
+Although February had just gone, the weather was still intensely hot.
+The harvest was nearly over, and the wheat looked beautiful.  I saw some
+eight feet high, and a person told me he had frequently seen it grow as
+high as ten feet.  Lunching at Melton Mowbray, we came on to Oatlands,
+driving the last few miles by moonlight, the night being very cool.
+
+At Oatlands is a large gaol, where in old times a number of England’s
+sons were confined, many of them having been sent there for political
+“offences,” which in our happier times have conducted the best of
+Englishmen to the Council Board at Windsor.  The gaol is now almost
+untenanted.  In passing along we saw the ruins of many of the miserable
+old barracks, where the convicts used to live.  Everything looks half
+finished, and I have scarcely seen one window blind furnished with cords
+for winding; they roll them up and pin them, consequently the blind is
+full of pin holes.  We stopped a night at the best hotel in Campbelltown,
+a really well-appointed house; but on trying to open the front door, the
+knob came off in my hand!  We greatly enjoyed our three weeks’ stay in
+Tasmania; in many respects it is more interesting than the mainland,
+while the climate is much more agreeable to Englishmen.  A pleasant
+passage of twenty hours brought us to Melbourne again, and the weather
+being still very hot, we decided to go on to Sydney by steamer.
+
+                  [Picture: Our Waiter at Campbelltown]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+The run down Hobson’s Bay to Port Philip Heads takes about four hours,
+and just inside the mouth of the harbour are two little watering-places,
+much frequented by the citizens of Melbourne.
+
+Presently we come to a curious feature in the water.  The currents of the
+bay and those of the open sea meet, and produce at their junction the
+phenomenon locally known as “The Rip.”  All at once, as the steamer comes
+out of the bay, we pass from smooth water into the regular waves of the
+sea; there is almost a wall between, and as the vessel passes through it
+a rushing sound is heard, the vessel instantly beginning to roll and
+pitch.  In rough weather passing through “The Rip” is quite exciting, the
+water frequently rushing over the decks.
+
+                        [Picture: Sydney Harbour]
+
+After a voyage of a little more than two days, we arrived outside the
+heads of Port Jackson or Sydney Harbour.  Everyone has heard of the
+extreme beauty of this glorious harbour; indeed if the visitor stays a
+few days in the city he is likely to hear of it many times.  The entrance
+is about a mile in width, between bold cliffs 250 feet in height.  It has
+a coast line of more than 100 miles, and is full of beautiful creeks and
+bays, with their banks finely wooded to the water’s edge, and having
+numerous handsome villas picturesquely placed upon every point of
+vantage, the city being situated at the head of the bay.  The old town of
+Sydney is very badly laid out, with narrow, crooked streets, while the
+pavements and roads are most execrable, and the drainage and water supply
+are as bad as they can well be.  The public buildings, and the modern
+portion of the city, are very fine, the post-office in particular being a
+very handsome edifice, infinitely superior to the new post-office in
+Birmingham; but then the citizens of Sydney built their own, while the
+citizens of Birmingham were not consulted, and had to accept what the
+London architect was graciously pleased to bestow.
+
+Next to the harbour, the public gardens of Sydney form its principal
+attraction.  The Botanical Gardens are exceedingly fine, and contain a
+magnificent collection of almost every known tree that will stand the
+climate.  A special feature is the Norfolk Island pine, which grows to a
+great height, perfectly straight, and with very regular branches.  The
+gardens are finely situated on undulating ground, sloping down to the
+harbour, which is sufficiently deep 200 yards off to float men-of-war.
+From these gardens a fine view of the Governor’s house and of other parts
+of the city is obtained.  There is also a beautiful view from the
+Observatory Hill, which the Sydney people are justly proud of, for it can
+scarcely be equalled in any other part of the world.  The harbour, with
+its numerous islands, lies spread out before the eyes, while the greatest
+animation is given to the scene by the large number of little steamers,
+yachts, and sail-boats continually flitting about, for the youth of
+Sydney are truly British in their love of the water.  While we were
+admiring this panorama one morning, an old gentleman, observing we were
+strangers, pointed out the various objects of interest.  Presently one of
+our party observing a strange cloud in the hitherto cloudless sky, called
+the old man’s attention to it.  At first he thought it was a bush fire
+away to the south, but in a minute he said, “Come on, we had better get
+under shelter, for it is a ‘southerly buster!’”
+
+A “southerly buster” is one of the institutions of Sydney, and is a
+hurricane of wind: which comes up suddenly from the south, bringing
+clouds of dust from the brickfields lying on that side of the city.  We
+had long been wishing to see a genuine example, and here it was with a
+vengeance.  In less time than it takes to describe, the whole city and
+harbour were completely obscured by a tremendous cloud of dust, blown on
+at a great pace, roaring like a furnace, and carrying before it sticks,
+paper, and even small gravel, which strike with the force of hailstones.
+During the twenty minutes which the hurricane lasts umbrellas are
+perfectly useless, and every person and thing becomes completely covered
+with dust.  Having experienced the “buster” once, we have no desire for a
+repetition.
+
+Sydney is fortunate in possessing almost inexhaustible supplies of
+oysters, and the old gentleman referred to above told us they sometimes
+grew on trees!  There is a tree called the Mangrove, which grows very
+plentifully on the banks of the Parramatta river; sometimes the water is
+very high for days together, and the oyster spawn gets fixed in the mud
+on the branches, and so they grow and are gathered in their season.
+
+One of the most delightful excursions from Sydney is to the top of the
+Blue Mountains, where there are several villages and some exceedingly
+fine and interesting scenery.  The summit of the mountains is about
+3,500ft. above sea-level, and is seventy miles from Sydney, being reached
+by a picturesque zigzag railway.  In the old convict days it was commonly
+supposed by the prisoners that China lay on the other side of the Blue
+Mountain range, and many of the wretched men lost their lives in the
+jungle in trying to escape to the celestial country; one party succeeded
+in getting to a considerable distance before the guard overtook them, and
+one of them was found to have in his possession an engraving of a
+compass, by which he expected to steer his way!
+
+The railway from Sydney passes many charming villages and extensive
+orange groves, crossing the River Nepean by a handsome iron bridge.
+
+Some of the hotels on the mountain are of a very primitive character.
+One of those in which we stayed was a single-storied building, with
+bed-rooms opening into the yard.  The house was built of planks, and the
+partitions were not very thick.  I found that the landlord was the
+brother of an English tradesman with whom I do business.  They had not
+heard of one another for forty years, which was a suspicious
+circumstance, considering the history of the colony.
+
+                   [Picture: Cottage at Mount Victoria]
+
+In the fireplace of our sitting room we found a “gin” set for rats, which
+during the night were quite lively.  One morning we observed that our
+waiter seemed to be very anxious for us to finish our breakfast.
+Presently he asked if we had finished with the coffee-pot, saying that
+all the others had been sent to be mended, and as he had a rather
+particular couple in the next room, he did not like to take in the coffee
+in a tea-pot!
+
+At Mount Victoria, the highest village on the mountain, there are good
+State schools, to which the children come for twenty-five miles round
+from the villages along the railway.  Both schools and railways in New
+South Wales belong to the State, and the schoolchildren are allowed to
+ride free by all trains.  Even the goods trains have carriages attached
+for the use of the children, and the school hours are arranged to enable
+them to take advantage of the trains.  Mount Victoria is a beautiful
+village, where many of the wealthy citizens of Sydney have charming
+residences.  It has quite an alpine appearance with its wooden houses and
+tree-clad hills.  In the neighbourhood are many delightful places, to
+which excursions are made; one of the most interesting is to a waterfall
+called “Govett’s Leap.”  The road is a very rough one, and goes through
+the forest, in which are numbers of large ant-hills more than 5ft. in
+height, and formed of clay, which has become so hard that a stick makes
+no impression upon them.  The entrances for the little creatures are very
+narrow cracks, too narrow for any of their enemies to get through.
+Sometimes, however, a creature called the “iguana” manages to make its
+way inside, when he always clears the entire colony out.
+
+                    [Picture: The Weatherboard Falls]
+
+After a few miles’ drive along an almost level road, we come suddenly
+upon the edge of a precipice nearly 1,000 feet deep, down which the
+stream falls forming the waterfall.  The “leap” is about 500 feet, and
+almost all the water becomes spray before it reaches the bottom, its
+appearance reminding us of the Staubbach Falls at Lauterbrunnen.
+
+From the precipice a fine view is obtained for many miles round.  The
+country is broken up into deep ravines or wide gullies, stretching as far
+as the eye can reach, and all wooded, while, except the little waterfall,
+not a drop of water is to be seen.
+
+On the other side of Mount Victoria, towards Bathurst, is another curious
+zigzag railway, at the foot of which is the village of Lithgow, the seat
+of iron and coal industries.  At present the works are of a very
+primitive character, but I have no doubt that at no distant date they
+will assume important proportions.
+
+                    [Picture: Descent to Hartley Vale]
+
+Outside our hotel door the landlord kept his talking parrot, which was
+always saying to the passers-by, “a bucket of beer, a bucket of beer.”
+There was a retired missionary staying at the hotel with his wife, and
+one day the old lady told me that she thought they might have taught the
+poor thing something “more Christian.”
+
+One evening some drovers from Bathurst camped for the night near to the
+hotel; they put their cattle into a field, and having taken their tents
+from the packhorses, soon made themselves comfortable round their
+camp-fires, the whole scene being very picturesque and gipsy-like.
+
+This used to be the old coach-road before the railway was opened, and
+many a coach has been stopped and robbed by gangs of escaped convicts
+called bushrangers.  People were easily frightened in those days.  A
+woman coming out of a cottage at night has been known to stop a coach,
+and snapping the spring of an old candlestick has ordered the passengers
+to “bail up” and to throw the mail-bags out, which being done under
+terror of the supposed pistol, she commanded them to drive on; the
+coachman of course supposing there was a gang of ruffians lying in wait.
+
+Bushrangers are not yet a thing of the past, for while we were in Sydney
+four were sentenced to death for the murder of a policeman, who was one
+of a party sent in pursuit of the gang.
+
+Hard by our hotel is a solitary graveyard, where lie the bodies of many
+convicts who died while confined in a neighbouring stockade in the old
+transportation days.  A more desolate and melancholy place it would be
+impossible to imagine.  Some of the public-houses have queer mottoes on
+their sign boards.  We observed three not far apart having these
+inscriptions: “Labour in Vain,” “The Leisure Hour,” “The Rag and Famish.”
+A favourite drink amongst the people is sarsaparilla, which is generally
+mentioned on the sign along with the beer.
+
+There are two kinds of birds in the woods about Mount Victoria which make
+a great noise at night; one is called the “Great Goat Sucker,” and
+continually cries “more pork, more pork”; while the other, called the
+“Laughing Jackass,” or the great kingfisher, makes night hideous by its
+insane laughter; in the day-time, however, it performs a very useful
+service, in waging perpetual war against the snakes.
+
+                     [Picture: The Laughing Jackass]
+
+The ants in Australia are rather formidable creatures.  Some of them are
+more than an inch in length, and one kind, called the “bull-dog,” is very
+fierce, and will attack anything; he can run backwards or forwards with
+equal facility, and never turns his back to the foe.  Their hills are
+very large, and a slight tap brings numbers of them out at once, and
+unless you want to be well punished, you had better leave them quickly,
+for their bite is something to be remembered.  One morning while on a
+walk we observed two boys “prodding” an ant-hill; but by the time we had
+come up to them we found them otherwise engaged, for the “bulldogs” had
+got up their clothes and were causing the boys to jump about as though
+they were “possessed;” occasionally they would pause and rub their legs
+with great devotion; and altogether it was apparent they felt their
+position keenly.  As we passed them they gave us a ghastly smile, and I
+think they will let “sleeping bull-dogs lie” in the future.
+
+                     [Picture: The Author Sketching]
+
+During one of my visits to Sydney the political situation was this:—Two
+questions were before the Parliament and country—viz., an Amended
+Education Act, and an Excise Act, by which latter it was proposed to put
+a tax upon colonial beer.
+
+“It happens that a vacancy has occurred in an important constituency, and
+as these questions are greatly agitating the whole country, the election
+is looked forward to with great interest as being a sort of test of the
+public sentiment.  The Government candidate of course supports the two
+measures above referred to, while the opposition candidate is adverse to
+both, the latter being the largest brewer in the Colony, (which of course
+accounts for his opposing the excise duty on beer) and, what is not
+unusual in the case of brewers, he is a decided Churchman, and supporter
+of what he calls ‘religious education.’  The whole strength of the
+clergy, publicans, bishops, loafers, avowed atheists, Roman Catholic
+archbishop, priests, and Irish is most heartily with the Church-loving,
+beer-brewing candidate, who is socially much liked, and very strong.  His
+opponent is supported by the whole Liberal party, by large numbers of the
+Churchmen, and by a few Catholics.  The Amended Education Act simply
+provides that whereas at present State aid is given to denominational
+schools it shall now be withdrawn.  The Bible is not read in the schools,
+but the lesson books of the Irish National Schools are used.  Facilities
+are offered to the various denominations to give religious instruction to
+the children in the State schools.  The bishop and clergy of the Church
+of England and the Roman Catholic priests unite heartily with the beer
+interest (as usual), the proposal to tax the beer coming in very
+opportunely to enlist the sympathies and votes of the idle, drunken,
+venal, and dissolute portion of the community.  The bishop takes an
+opportunity of stating publicly how much he is in favour of temperance,
+and his clergy follow suit; the Catholic clergy do the same, and in the
+evenings clergy of both religious denominations appear at public meetings
+in support of the brewer!  The publicans and their followers are relieved
+from saying anything about the tax on beer by the existence of the
+education question, which they heartily oppose, thus avoiding the subject
+in which they have a selfish interest; so it comes to this—Bible says to
+beer, ‘I’ll support you, although it is rather inconvenient, for am I not
+pledged to temperance?’  Beer says to Bible, ‘I’ll support you with all
+the strength of my lungs, rendered all the noisier by copious draughts of
+untaxed beer; beer and Bible, Bible and beer for ever!’
+
+“The Roman Catholic clergy anathematise Protestants of all kinds and
+classes, including the Church of England, but the latter joins hands with
+the Roman Catholics and the beer party to gain its ends, the said ends
+being the same with both Churches—viz., the triumph of priestly rule and
+domination.”
+
+The answer of the constituency, applauded throughout the length and
+breadth of the land, was to return the Liberal candidate by a majority of
+two to one.
+
+In reference to this election the _Sydney Morning Herald_ said—“Many of
+the advocates for the extension and maintenance of the denominational
+schools lay great stress upon the doctrine that it is not just to deny
+denominational schools to those who prefer them—that if any citizen pays
+the education tax he ought to have the sort of education provided for his
+child that he most desires, and that it is a wrong-doing to his
+conscience if this claim is not regarded.  It is certainly somewhat
+singular that the few advocates of this line of argument are to be found
+in the ranks of the two great churches, which, having been national
+churches, have, to say the least, not distinguished themselves by
+defending the rights of conscience.  In England the march of religious
+liberty has done much to undo Church-inspired legislation against those
+outside the pale of the Church; and that being achieved it sounds
+strangely to hear the ‘conscience’ argument against a uniform treatment
+of all citizens proceed from a quarter which has not been the home of the
+rights of conscience.”
+
+             [Picture: A Bullock Team on the Blue Mountains]
+
+Before leaving Sydney it may be well to describe an overland ride I made
+from Sydney to Melbourne _viâ_ Wagga Wagga and Albury, at a time previous
+to the completion of the through railway.
+
+Leaving Sydney by the Pullman train at six in the evening, Wagga Wagga is
+reached about ten next morning: During the night we ascended 2,200ft.  A
+large extent of the country is cleared, and, being New Year’s Day, it was
+rather strange to our English eyes to see the wheat cut and stacked, and
+harvesting operations going on.
+
+                           [Picture: Bush Hut]
+
+The country through which our track passes is famous for its sheep runs
+and for the high quality of the wool produced in it.  Here and there in
+the bush are occasional labourers’ cottages, wretched, uncomfortable
+looking buildings, constructed of rough planks covered with bark.  The
+children we saw had a very uncared-for look.
+
+Wagga Wagga (pronounced Wogga Wogga) covers a large extent of ground, but
+at present the number of houses is few, most of them, however, being well
+built.  From this place we hired a buggy and pair of horses to take us to
+Albury, a distance of some seventy to eighty miles, the charge for which,
+including the services of a smart, bright boy as driver, was £7.
+Immediately on leaving Wagga we got into the “bush” country, and during
+the afternoon passed some large stock “stations.”  The land appears to be
+much more fertile than in the neighbourhood of Sydney, with greater depth
+of soil.  We put up for the night at Jerra Jerra, a place consisting of
+two or three wood shanties, one of them being the hotel, and left at 6.30
+next morning, taking breakfast at a somewhat larger group of wood huts
+called Germanton.  Every driver through the “bush” makes his own track
+among the trees, and ours was no exception to the rule; he made long
+detours at intervals, only coming out into the regular road when a creek
+had to be crossed.  We saw many pairs of large magpies, and some other
+birds which the driver informed us build large mud nests.  Then the Great
+Ants, too, are very numerous, so that one dare not sit down anywhere to
+rest.  The flies are also a great pest, and as my companion said, “won’t
+take a hint,” requiring to be toppled over before they will move.  At
+about seven a.m. we passed the Royal Mail bowling along amongst the
+trees, our driver quickly making a fresh track to avoid the fearful dust
+which it raised.  The coach is a big lumbering machine, painted flaring
+red, and drawn by six horses.  It is licensed to carry sixty-five
+passengers, who can only be got on to it by being packed like herrings in
+a barrel.  The weather being so hot and the dust so great, it must be
+terrible to be cooped up in it with fat people and thin smokers and
+others.  The coaches are hung upon enormous leather “springs,” and they
+need them, for the road is so rough, and the coachmen are so daring, that
+the bumping and thumping are terrific.  Each coach is fitted with four
+large reflector lamps, three in front and one behind.
+
+While baiting the horses I had a chat with a farm labourer, who, like a
+great many of the immigrants with whom I have spoken, was sighing for old
+England again.  He told me the ordinary farm labourer’s wages here are
+12s. to 15s. a week with board, and that 20s. a week is considered
+exceptionally good, while the great heat, dust, and reptiles are so
+troublesome that most of the labourers wish they were well out of it.
+This man told me his little terrier was killed by a snake a day or two
+before; the poor creature swelled up and died in great agony in ten
+minutes after being bitten; its death, however, was speedily avenged, his
+master killing the snake shortly afterwards.  The landlady said she was
+in great terror of the snakes, which were very numerous.  Near the run
+was a large log, and it was well known that a big black snake had taken
+up his abode there, for he was frequently seen to come out.  In the
+winter season the reptile would very soon have been despatched by the
+same process adopted by the Chinaman when he wanted “roast pig,” but this
+being summer, to fire the log meant to cause a general conflagration in
+the bush.
+
+The power of endurance of Australian post-horses is something wonderful;
+yesterday we travelled more than thirty-five miles after one o’clock,
+over a rough bush road, or rather no road at all, bumping up and down in
+a way that must be very trying to the poor animals, as the “path” is
+never certain; and to-day we had to go nearly fifty miles more, the heat
+being intense, and the track covered with dust nearly a foot thick.
+
+                      [Picture: An Up-Country Town]
+
+Our driver, a mere lad of thirteen years, drove on with the greatest
+confidence, never having missed the way once, though there were no
+direction posts, and we did not come across a person or house once in ten
+miles, and were amongst the trees all the time.  Towards evening the
+horses got rather tired, and so did poor “Tommy,” the driver, who at
+times had a quiet “weep” to himself, but at last we reached Albury, and
+found our Melbourne friend awaiting us at the hotel.
+
+For hours before, we had in view a fine range of hills, enclosing a large
+extent of country, including the valley along which the River Murray
+runs.  Here we got the blue, purple, and roseate tints on the mountains
+to perfection, and as the sun was going down just as we entered the town
+I thought I had rarely seen a more delightful picture.
+
+There is a thriving, well-to-do look about the place which is very
+enlivening, the houses being well built, with wide verandahs projecting
+from two storeys, the streets straight and wide, and planted on both
+sides with acacias, poplars, and several varieties of pines, the whole
+forming a veritable little paradise.
+
+This being the great centre of the wine-growing industry we were desirous
+of visiting the vineyards and seeing the capacious cellars which are
+formed in the hills, and for which the district is somewhat celebrated,
+but our friend, being very anxious to get back to Melbourne, assured us
+there was “nothing to see here,” and told us to wait till we got into
+Victoria, and so hurried us off.
+
+We left Albury at 5.30 on the following morning, driving across the
+Murray to the railway station at Wodonga, the first town on the Victorian
+side, as Albury is the last on the New South Wales side, and the contrast
+between the two is great indeed—just the difference between prosperity
+and decay.  New South Wales, with its Free Trade policy, is fitly
+represented by bright and shining Albury, while Victoria may well read a
+lesson from the decay and ruin into which Wodonga has fallen.  I could
+not help thinking that a dozen such contrasts along the frontiers of the
+two States would do more than anything to settle the fate of Protection.
+Even the omnibus driver was full of the subject, pointing out to us as we
+rode along the difference between the two places.
+
+The railway ride to Melbourne occupies eight hours, although the distance
+is only about 180 miles.  On the way we passed through Euroa, the town
+which was “stuck up,” _i.e._, plundered, by the notorious Kelly and his
+gang.  There were only four of these fellows in the gang, but such was
+the terror they inspired that they were able to rob a whole town in broad
+daylight, while a train was passing through the station close by the bank
+from which they took a considerable amount of cash.  Having done this,
+they next ordered all the people into carts, and drove them some miles
+out of the town, ordering them not to stir for four hours under pain of
+death.  Having secured their booty the scoundrels rode off, and for two
+years succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the police, although the
+Government offered a reward of £8,000 for their capture, alive or dead.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+Before leaving the subject of the Australian Colonies a few observations
+on the state of the labour market, and upon the social condition of the
+people, may be interesting.
+
+In most of the Australian colonies Free Trade practically prevails, the
+exception being Victoria.  In this colony the system of Protection is to
+be found in its most pronounced form, almost every imported article of
+manufacture being the subject of a heavy duty.
+
+The avowed object of this system is to encourage immigration by offering
+a premium upon the manufacture of every article in considerable demand in
+the Colony.  I do not know how far this object has been attained as
+concerns immigration, but it is an admitted fact, and one which is
+causing Victorian politicians much anxiety, that the colony fails to
+retain its population.  One result about which there can be no question
+is that this fiscal policy is concentrating the population about the
+large towns, the city of Melbourne presenting the appearance of the chief
+town of an old and populous State.  A ride in any direction into the
+country, however, soon discloses the real nakedness of the land as
+regards inhabitants, the fact being that a very small proportion of the
+immigrants ever get beyond the towns.  An obvious consequence is that the
+natural resources of the country are greatly neglected, and the evil of
+this state of things will be apprehended when it is seen that the
+manufacturing population is increasing in a vastly greater ratio than the
+constituency upon which its trade depends.  Under such conditions the
+dangers of the situation are seriously augmented when depression of trade
+occurs.  Such a state of things arose before the building of the late
+Exhibition in Melbourne.  The building trade and the mechanical
+industries in the city being in a stagnant state, large numbers of people
+found themselves out of employment, their attitude causing the Government
+some anxiety.  The Exhibition was decided upon in the hope that its
+erection would provide employment until trade should revive.  I asked one
+of the Commissioners of the Exhibition what would happen if trade did not
+revive on the completion of the building?  He replied, “Oh, they shall
+take it down again, for it will be useless after the Exhibition is over.”
+Surely a notable instance of the dog subsisting by eating its own tail.
+
+A natural result of all this is to produce in the minds of the working
+classes a feeling that the Legislature ought to secure to them a constant
+supply of work at high rates of wages, altogether leaving out of
+consideration the inevitable effect of such a course in checking demand.
+Naturally, each class expects to receive the benefit of this policy, and
+it is not surprising that the example of the manufacturers in demanding
+Protection should be followed, and even bettered, by the working men.
+
+A curious example of this occurred when I was in Australia.  The streets
+of Melbourne, being very wide and long, are peculiarly well adapted for
+the introduction of tramways.  A Bill was introduced into the House
+authorising the construction of an experimental line, but it had to be
+abandoned in consequence of the determined opposition of the cab drivers,
+the majority of whom own the vehicles which they drive.  These men
+argued, naturally enough, that as manufacturing trades were protected
+against foreigners, their business also should be protected against
+competition in the only form in which it could arise.  Doubtless this
+resistance will eventually be overcome, but not without leaving a sense
+of injustice.
+
+While each class seeks to have the benefit of Protection for its own
+manufactures, it also seeks to obtain the benefits of Free Trade for the
+raw material and smaller accessories used in their production.  At the
+time I am referring to, a Tariff Revision Commission was in session, and
+representatives of the various manufacturing trades were examined with
+the view of ascertaining whether any changes were desirable.  In almost
+every case extensive additions to the duty were demanded, eliciting from
+some of the members of the Commission a reminder that on previous
+occasions the representatives of protected industries declared they only
+required the tax to be levied for a limited time in order to enable them
+to establish their business.
+
+The Protectionist newspapers used every means to stir up the various
+trades to avail themselves of the opportunity the Commission afforded of
+making fresh claims.
+
+It so happens that most of the materials used for newspaper printing are
+admitted duty free.  The _Argus_, the leading journal in Victoria, and a
+consistent advocate of Free Trade, took this opportunity of suggesting
+that the proprietors of the Protectionist journals should prove the
+sincerity of their expressed opinions by appearing before the Commission
+and demanding the imposition of a tax upon newspaper materials in the
+interests of “native industry.”  Of course the suggestion was not
+adopted, perhaps for this reason, also suggested by the _Argus_, that the
+struggle for existence was already sufficiently severe.
+
+The operative printers also demanded of the Commission that printed books
+should be more heavily taxed, one of their delegates remarking that
+“there was sufficient talent in Victoria to produce their own books,”
+while a manufacturer, with great candour, asked for a little increase
+upon his special productions on the plea that his profit was not “quite
+enough!”
+
+If profits are not enough prices are certainly sufficiently high, as the
+following instance will abundantly show.  At the close of 1882 one
+hundred locomotives were required by the Government of Victoria, and
+although the needs of the country were most urgent—complaints of the
+inefficiency of the service coming in from all sides—the Protectionist
+party in the House demanded that the whole number should be made in the
+Colony, although there was only one firm who could undertake their
+manufacture, and that firm was unable to deliver the first engine under a
+period of ten months, and in addition to this, the total price demanded
+for the contract was £66,000 more than the engines could have been
+procured for without delay in England.  It is admitted that the
+locomotives made in the Colony are much inferior to those imported, while
+in addition to the excess in first cost, the expense of maintaining the
+colonial engines is vastly greater.  I was assured by competent
+authorities on the railways that the colonial engines are frequently
+under repair, and that their life is much shorter than that of their
+English rivals.  The same evil principle is applied to the purchase of
+the miscellaneous stores supplied to the railways, thereby greatly
+enhancing the cost of working.  Instances might be multiplied of the
+mischievous effects of a vicious fiscal policy in a young and undeveloped
+Colony.  It is notorious that the great want of the Colonies is a larger
+population, and the Government in various ways—notably by making grants
+in aid of immigration—offer inducements to bring this result about.  The
+manufacturers also require a larger field for their productions; but the
+working-class element is jealous of this very increase lest it should
+subject labour to competition, unmindful of the fact that there is ample
+room for an infinitely larger population.
+
+Neither the agricultural nor the mining industries of the Colony are
+protected.  As regards the former, public opinion would not permit the
+taxation of food; whilst, in the latter case, the minerals raised are,
+for the most part, exported, there being scarcely any demand for them in
+the Colony.  But, while these industries receive no benefit from the
+fiscal policy of the Colony, they are heavily taxed in support of the
+revenue, for not only are all the machinery and materials used in their
+development subject to more than 25 per cent. import duty, but the cost
+of labour is greatly enhanced by the high wages, which become necessary
+when the purchasing power of money is diminished by Protection.  Every
+year witnesses a considerable expansion of the industries in question;
+and every year the cry becomes louder against the injustice and
+inequality of a system which places the natural resources of the country
+under so great a disadvantage.  In consequence of the urgency of these
+complaints there is now some prospect of a reduction of the duty on
+agricultural and mining machinery.
+
+I have met with men who were always ready to descant upon the advantages
+of Protection, but who, almost in the same breath, have told me they have
+never hesitated to evade the laws when they could do so to advantage, or
+even to break them when it suited their convenience and they could do so
+without much risk, justifying their conduct by saying that it was “quite
+right to cheat the Government when they could, because the Government
+were always ready to cheat them.”  In order to circumvent the practices
+of such men as these, the Legislature has been compelled to institute a
+complicated system of accounts in connection with the importation of
+goods, harassing in the last degree to those who have been accustomed to
+do business in a country where trade is unshackled.
+
+In spite of the boasted advantages of Protection, it is evident that some
+manufacturers are not happy under it, as is shown by the fact of my
+having some time ago received from an important manufacturing firm in
+Victoria an application for my business agency in the Colony.  In their
+application, the firm stated that the workpeople in the Colony were so
+very independent and so uncertain that they (the firm in question) would
+rather at any time sell imported articles at a smaller profit than
+manufacture them in their own works.
+
+I have stated that the avowed objects of Protection were the attraction
+of a larger population and the fostering of “native industry.”  Now, with
+these very objects in view, the public men of New South Wales have from
+the first adopted and persisted in a policy diametrically opposed to that
+which has for years past been in force in the neighbouring Colony of
+Victoria.  If the principles of Protection be sound, we should expect to
+find in the Free Trade Colony of New South Wales a state of things even
+much worse than I have shown to exist in Victoria.  But what do we find?
+A constantly increasing population; abundance of employment; a vast and
+continually expanding railway system; shipping considerably greater than
+that of the Port of London one hundred years ago; an import and export
+trade greater than that of Great Britain at the same period; in short,
+every evidence of great and enduring prosperity.
+
+As in America, “where acres are many and men are few,” the manufacture of
+agricultural machinery has been brought to greater perfection than in
+almost any other country, so in Australia the same conditions have
+developed a flourishing manufacture of special machinery used in
+mining—one of the staple industries of the country.  A demand for this
+improved machinery has recently sprung up in other countries, a
+considerable order having been received from India by an Australian firm
+while I was there.
+
+In Sydney—not in spite of, but because of, Free Trade—the largest
+manufacturing concern in the Australian Colonies has grown up.  The
+founders of this large business had the sagacity at the outset to
+recognise that there were certain articles which must of necessity be
+better and more cheaply made in the Colony than they could be imported.
+They put down steam saw-mills for supplying planking, which before had
+been imported; they next proceeded to make such articles as
+window-sashes, doors, frames, etc., for house-building, choosing such as
+could be manufactured almost entirely by machinery, which they obtained
+from England and America.  By such natural means, and altogether free
+from legislative interference, they have built up the enormous business
+known as Hudson Brothers, Limited, railway rolling-stock manufacturers.
+It is clear that with the most improved machinery, purchased in the
+cheapest markets and imported duty free, and having inexhaustible
+supplies of native timber, not only cheaper but much better adapted to
+the climate than that hitherto imported, the opening for a perfectly
+legitimate business presented itself; in fact, they created a genuine
+“native industry.”  But Messrs. Hudson, recognising, as already pointed
+out, that other countries have also special advantages for the production
+of certain articles, wisely abstain from attempting a hopeless
+competition.  For this reason they import such portions of the
+rolling-stock as wheels, axles, springs, carriage-furniture, etc.
+
+The free importation of mining and agricultural machinery into New South
+Wales has given these industries such a stimulus that they have been more
+generally developed throughout that Colony than those of Victoria,
+causing a continuous and increasing demand for labour.  The immigration
+into New South Wales is greatly in excess of that into Victoria; and, in
+addition to this, large numbers of artisans and others are continually
+crossing the border from the latter into the former Colony.  In 1880,
+forty-five thousand persons arrived in New South Wales from other than
+Australian ports, and it is not too much to say that there is ample room
+for four times their number every year.
+
+Until a few years since the great shipping companies had their repairing
+yards and shops in Victoria, but the extremely high cost of everything
+required by them compelled them at last to remove their establishments to
+her Free Trade neighbour, thereby effecting a very considerable saving.
+The same causes have doubtless been influential in securing to New South
+Wales the remarkable development of its shipping interests during the
+last generation.
+
+So little is known in England of what our friends in the Colonies are
+doing, that probably many will be startled to learn that whereas in 1782
+the total imports and exports of Great Britain amounted in value to about
+£23,850,000, in New South Wales, in 1881, the value was £27,650,000.
+
+During the last thirty years the shipping annually arriving in Sydney has
+increased from 90 vessels, with a tonnage of 48,776, to 1,389 vessels,
+with a tonnage of 973,425; and the clearances in the same period
+increased from 47 vessels, with a tonnage of 24,081, to 1,322 vessels,
+with a tonnage of 941,895.
+
+During the last ten years, too, the population of New South Wales has
+increased 53 per cent., while that of Victoria has only increased 18 per
+cent., and while the excess of immigration over emigration in the former
+Colony has quadrupled, it has been almost stationary in the latter.
+
+During the same period the Customs revenue in Victoria, notwithstanding
+the high tariff, has remained almost stationary; while in New South
+Wales, with a low tariff and smaller population, it has increased nearly
+one-half.  The imports, too, have increased 80 per cent., against 17 per
+cent. in Victoria, and the exports 94 per cent. against 28 per cent.
+
+These figures, taken from official papers in 1882, have never been dealt
+with by Victorian Protectionists, but are full of meaning to all those
+whom vested interests have not made blind.  While it is true that
+Australia presents, and will continue to present, a great field for the
+surplus population of older countries, it is, in my opinion, a mistake to
+suppose that the upper grades of English artisans improve their position
+much by going there.  Wages are higher it is true, and eight hours make
+up a day’s work; animal food also is cheaper, but almost everything else
+is dearer than in England—house-rents, indeed, enormously so.  An artisan
+who in Birmingham would be well housed for 5s. to 6s. a week would have
+to pay £1 for much inferior accommodation; this remark applies generally
+in Australia, the principal cause being the great lack of artisans in the
+building trade.  Many too, may consider the higher wages and shorter
+hours of labour as not too great a compensation for the exhaustion
+induced by the heat and dust of the climate and the annoyance from insect
+life.  But for unskilled labour and for skilled agricultural labour there
+can be only one opinion,—viz., that the Colonies present a field where
+sobriety and industry are certain to bring a reward such as is altogether
+unattainable at home.
+
+The education of the people is admirably provided for by the Legislature,
+every district being well supplied with first-rate schools, while the
+means of intercommunication by rail, post, and telegraph are superior to
+those of any country in the world, when the smallness of the population
+and the immense distances to be covered are taken into consideration.
+
+In Australia, especially in the southern Colonies, there is happily no
+native question to absorb the attention of the people and to upset the
+calculations of financiers, consequently the colonists are able to devote
+all their energy to opening up the natural resources of the country.  At
+the present time many millions of money are set aside for the
+construction of new railways and for the supply and storage of water, and
+when these are completed vast areas of agricultural land will be opened
+sufficient to accommodate all the spare population of England for many
+years to come.
+
+If “Young Australia,” like his cousin in America, has an unbounded
+confidence in the future of his country, he has even more in himself, as
+is well illustrated by the following story told me by an old resident.
+In one of the cities a number of young men had established a Debating
+Society, which met every Wednesday evening in a room in a narrow street.
+On the other side of the street was a church where service was held at
+the same time.  The weather being hot the windows of both buildings were
+usually open, and the important deliberations of the young men were much
+interrupted by the preaching and singing in the church.  With a
+delightful unconsciousness of what in slang phrase is called “cheek,”
+they instructed their secretary to write to the minister of the church,
+requesting him to hold his service upon some other evening of the week!
+
+The people of Australia are possessed of vast energy and great
+intelligence: and, having unlimited and well-grounded faith in their
+capacity to conquer the many difficulties which lie before them, they
+determined that their future career shall do no discredit to the great
+country from which they have sprung, and of whose history they are so
+proud.
+
+      [Picture: The Duck-Billed Platypus (Ornithorhyncus paradoxus)]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+We left Sydney in the first week in April, and although we had greatly
+enjoyed the beautiful scenery of its fine harbour and the neighbouring
+Blue Mountains, and had experienced the greatest kindness and hospitality
+on every side, we were not sorry to depart.
+
+In the first place, we were homeward-bound, and I had recovered the
+health, in search of which I had left home and friends, and the weather
+had been so oppressively hot and the dust so troublesome, that we were
+glad of the prospect of the abatement of the one and the total
+disappearance of the other.
+
+For ten months the Colony had had no rain, and in the neighbourhood of
+Sydney trees were dying by hundreds, and gardens which had been carefully
+tended for fifteen or twenty years were nearly spoiled.  The outlook for
+agriculturists was dark indeed, very indifferent hay was selling for £10
+a ton, and the cattle were perishing for want of water.  I saw a
+statement in the paper that one farmer had already lost 45,000 sheep, and
+if the drought lasted a few weeks longer he would lose 50,000 more.  The
+most inveterate grumbler at the moisture of the English climate would, if
+here in Sydney, soon arrive at the conclusion that six months’ rain is to
+be preferred to ten months’ drought and dust under a scorching sun.
+
+Some friends accompanied us on board our steamer, and observing that the
+sky had become overcast with every prospect of a heavy downpour, I
+endeavoured to persuade them to return to shore, but they said the sky
+often looked overcast but soon became clear again, and that there would
+be no rain; still I was not comfortable, and presently induced them to
+go.  Half-an-hour afterwards our time was up, the ship’s gun was fired,
+and down came the rain in such torrents as made me very apprehensive for
+the safety of my friends, lest their boat should be swamped.  On arriving
+at New York I found a letter from them informing me that the rain filled
+the boat so fast that it was with some difficulty they could keep it
+afloat.
+
+Our vessel was an exceedingly fine one, and was on her first voyage.  Her
+length was 400ft. and she was 40ft. wide across the saloon.  The
+appointments seemed to be all very good, although it soon appeared that
+she was insufficiently supplied with stewards, the consequence being that
+the meals were badly served.  Everything, however, was done according to
+rule, and it was curious to see the order in which the various dishes
+were brought in.  The chief steward rang a bell once, and the stewards
+marched into the saloon in single file, dishes in hand; two rings, right
+wheel; three times, place dishes on the table; and at the fourth ringing
+of the bell, remove covers and march out with them.  It looked like a
+pantomime, and caused us considerable merriment.  The head steward was a
+negro, and it was curious to note how he lorded it over the white
+stewards.
+
+A rough passage of four days brought us to the entrance of Auckland
+harbour.  The previous day it was very stormy, and an albatross which had
+been following us for some time, frequently flying across the ship
+between the masts, at length either flew, or was blown, against one of
+the masts, and fell dead upon the deck.
+
+In approaching the town of Auckland a number of islands of curious shape,
+surmounted with rocks bearing the appearance of castles are passed.
+Auckland looks well from the harbour, which is a very fine one; behind
+the town a mountain rises to a considerable altitude, greatly adding to
+the picturesqueness of the view.
+
+Our ship was the largest that had ever been in the harbour, and we
+expected soon to have a number of boats plying for hire, but none
+appeared until half our limited time had expired, and consequently very
+few passengers went ashore.  We took a quantity of coal on board, the
+quality of which was very bad, giving off volumes of the densest smoke.
+It is much inferior to the New South Wales coal, which in its turn is not
+equal to English.
+
+For the first ten days the Pacific greatly belied its name, being in a
+state of great commotion the whole time; indeed, most of the way to San
+Francisco the roll was very considerable.  As we neared Kandavu, in the
+Fiji Islands, the dreaded coral reefs began to come in sight.  Some of
+them stretch out for fifteen miles from the land, and are known to
+approaching vessels by the white crests of the long lines of breakers.
+Navigation is very dangerous, and the harbour of Kandavu is a very
+difficult one to make.  Just before entering we passed within fifty feet
+of the masts of a sunken ship; but, having brought a native pilot from
+Sydney, we got inside safely.  The harbour is exceedingly beautiful.  For
+some distance from the water on each side the ground is covered with
+cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, large ferns, and a great variety of
+bright green foliage, while beyond is a range of hills of beautiful
+shapes and well wooded.
+
+It being Sunday only two or three boats made their appearance, the
+missionaries not permitting the natives to come out to trade or to
+gratify their curiosity on that day.  Knowing this we were not a little
+amazed to receive a visit presently from the missionaries themselves, who
+were rowed by eight very intelligent natives, having no clothing worthy
+of mention.  Some of our party taxed the missionaries with their lack of
+consistency, and were answered that they came “by invitation.”  The
+natives have fine open faces, with good foreheads, bright and restless
+eyes.  They are of a dark chocolate or liver colour.  Their hair is very
+abundant, but they spoil it by putting quicklime upon it, turning it to a
+dirty reddish brown.  Their vivacity is astonishing.  They laugh and
+chatter in a ceaseless chorus, but their language is not musical.  One
+old fellow was particularly voluble; he was in a boat, and was giving
+instructions to his crew in a fearfully loud voice, which sounded like
+the slipping of a ship’s cable through the hawser-hole.
+
+                       [Picture: A Native of Fiji]
+
+It was great fun to watch the children diving for money.  If you threw a
+sixpence into the water they would go after it and catch it before it had
+gone down many feet, quickly reappearing to ask—like Oliver Twist—for
+more, and with a grin, disclosing teeth which made us envy them.
+
+Some of our fellow-passengers went ashore, and were much charmed with all
+they saw.  The little children very much delighted them by coming up and
+putting their hands into those of their visitors, leading them off to
+show them the bread-fruit and banana trees.
+
+Just as daylight was going our gun was fired, and with our pilot on board
+we steamed out of the harbour, having the pilot’s boat in tow, manned
+with as merry a crew as ever rowed a boat.  The captain was very anxious
+to get clear of the reefs before dusk, and so went at a pretty good
+speed, and although the pilot-boat was half out of the water, and was
+constantly being swamped, the crew laughed and shrieked with delight,
+shouting and making curious noises like Christy Minstrels.
+
+Presently they commenced a song, one old fellow beating time with an
+oar—but we preferred the shrieking.  Soon the pilot clambered down the
+ship’s side, and after giving him three cheers we set off at full speed.
+
+There are many sharks in these waters, but it is said they are not fond
+of the dark skins.  Whether that is so or not I do not know, but
+certainly both boys and men disregard the presence of these monsters in
+diving for money.
+
+The day after leaving Kandavu we passed through a beautiful group of
+islands surrounded with coral reefs.  We passed so close to two of these
+islands that we were able to see the cocoa-nut trees quite distinctly,
+the bright green vegetation rising just above the pure white surf, and
+the whole surrounded by the glorious purple and azure of the ocean.
+While passing one of the islands we saw a huge waterspout burst, and were
+glad our ship was well out of it.
+
+Soon after leaving the Fiji Islands the crew were put through
+fire-brigade practice.  The bell was rung continuously, the whistles
+blown, and the crew and stewards rushed to the fire-engines, and got out
+the buckets and hose, and soon began playing over the ship, while the
+first officer superintended the getting out and lowering of the boats.
+As very few persons were warned of what was going to be done, there was
+naturally great excitement amongst the passengers, one lady fainting in
+the saloon, thinking the ship was really on fire.  I was not impressed
+with the smartness or efficiency of either officers or crew, and was
+devoutly thankful that there was no need for their services; and yet I
+often wondered there were no fires, there being so many kerosene lamps
+all over the ship, to say nothing of the immense kitchen fires, where
+twice in one morning I saw a regular burst of flame through an unskilful
+cook overturning the fat in the absence of his chief.
+
+In going from England to Australia, and returning via the Pacific, and
+across America, one day is gained, and in order to keep our calendar
+right we had to “drop a day,” or when we arrived at Liverpool we should
+be a day in advance of our home friends.  This is done by having two days
+of the same name and date in one week.  It appears rather curious but is
+plain enough, for our general course since leaving home was eastward, and
+continued so until we reached home.  Now, as in going east, four minutes
+to each degree are gained (the reverse in going west), it follows that in
+the 360 degrees into which the earth’s circumference is divided, a total
+gain of 360 × 4 = 1,440 minutes, or 24 hours is made.
+
+Our doctor was somewhat of a curiosity.  One evening he told me that one
+of the passengers, who was suffering from an ailment of the eyes, had
+declined his further services, preferring to pay one of the passengers
+who was a medical man.  He assured me he had no feeling about it, he was
+quite above that sort of thing.  “Our profession,” he said, “is one in
+which we should always practice the virtue of charity in accordance with
+the teaching of Christ, whose follower I trust I am.”  But observing that
+during the conversation he frequently swore, I gave him a hint about it.
+“Ah,” said he, “you remind me of my little wife at home; whenever I swear
+or consign any one to a warm place, she puts her finger up and says, ‘Ah,
+don’t do that, you know you don’t mean it,’ which of course is perfectly
+true, so there is no harm in it.”  One of our doctors was re-named a
+“compound-conceited-cuss-of-a-colonial-cockatoo-quack-of-a-doctor.”  He
+believed in the Australian “spread eagle”—in the cockatoo, that is—and
+had visions of a time when England would be a “foreign” country.  But he
+was labouring under the impression that there were eight millions of
+people in the Australian colonies, whereas there were not more than 2½
+millions of white, black, yellow, and brown.
+
+Life on shipboard is not more free from little personal difficulties than
+on land: one of our colonial friends daily raised the susceptibilities of
+his neighbours at the dinner table by emptying a favourite dish of fruit
+into his pocket for home consumption; while just before reaching Honolulu
+it was rumoured there was to be a duel as soon as we arrived at the
+island.  One of the English travellers had an objectionable habit of
+turning the fruit over with his fingers at dessert, and picking out the
+best.  A colonial gentleman frequently rebuked him mildly for his breach
+of good manners, telling him he should “touch and take”; and so it
+resulted in a quarrel which it was said “blood alone can quell.”  It is
+satisfactory, however, to know that the deadly encounter did not come
+off.
+
+Being told by the Captain that we might expect to land at Honolulu at 6
+p.m., the four o’clock dinner table was comparatively deserted, most of
+the passengers preferring to reserve themselves for what the Yankees call
+a “good square meal” on shore.  We arrived off the entrance to the
+harbour in good time, and made the usual signals for a pilot, but with no
+result.  After sunset, guns and rockets were fired, but no pilot
+appearing, the Captain decided to run in without one.  In consequence of
+the delay it was ten o’clock before we landed, when we found the
+islanders were _en fête_, and were informed that on such occasions the
+pilots decline to go out for vessels.  Just as we were about to land, one
+of our passengers, in the darkness, fell overboard, but being a good
+swimmer and a strong, fearless man, he managed to get aboard again, with
+no worse result than a wetting.  This gentleman had the reputation of
+being somewhat of a sceptic, and that afternoon I had been discussing
+with him the subject of a future state.  When he was safe on deck again I
+reminded him of our conversation, and asked what his thoughts were when
+under the water in such a perilous situation.  He replied, “I will tell
+you exactly what I did think.  When I fell overboard I had three
+shillings in my hand, and my first thought when under water was as to
+their safety; so, before doing anything else, I safely deposited them in
+my pocket, and then proceeded to ‘go aloft.’”  On landing we found
+ourselves amongst a motley throng, whose faces, however, were too dark to
+be seen, the majority dressed in light coloured raiment, and all
+laughing, shouting, jabbering and shrieking in a ten times more lively
+manner than a mob of gay Neapolitans on the arrival of a train at Naples.
+We found the hotel about a mile from the landing place, and very much
+enjoyed the walk along the wide unpaved streets, lined with houses of
+various shapes and sizes, many with gardens around them.  Myriads of
+fire-flies lit up the darkness, and the air was laden with the perfume of
+tropical flowers.  On arriving at the hotel, we found it to be a
+spacious, well-lighted building, with lofty reception rooms, through
+which we wandered in quest of waiters to whom to give our orders for
+supper, but no servant could we find, neither could we get any response
+to the bells, which were vigorously rung by a hungry crowd.  We made our
+way to the office, and were there informed that we could get nothing to
+eat till next morning, as the servants had “gone home,” and nothing was
+served after nine o’clock.  It was in vain we declared we were starving;
+the only reply was that we could get what we liked to _drink_ at the bar.
+A Yankee standing by, pitying our plight, said it was quite true we could
+get nothing that night, but told us how we could be the first to be
+served in the morning.  He recommended us to order our breakfast at the
+office before leaving, and to pay for it there and then, and to be at the
+hotel again before seven o’clock next morning.  This we did, and then
+returned to the vessel, where we also were too late to obtain anything to
+eat.  In the morning we were early at the hotel (buying some delicious
+strawberries on the way), and proceeding to the breakfast room, were
+informed we could not obtain admission until seven o’clock.  At the
+appointed hour the folding doors were opened by two natives of the
+“Flowery Land,” and we were soon seated at the tables, which were crowded
+with a bountiful supply of most tempting viands, and quantities of
+luscious fruit.
+
+As soon as all the seats were occupied the Celestial waiter closed the
+door, and was most assiduous in seeing that his staff attended carefully
+to the wants of his guests.  Presently there were loud knockings at the
+door, to which no attention whatever was vouchsafed by the smiling
+Chinee; and when the knockings were varied by angry exclamations from our
+friends outside, his face became blander still.  It could not be said of
+this “Heathen Chinee” that his “tricks they were vain,” for they were
+only too effectual in keeping the hungry crowd at bay.  When we had quite
+finished (and I fear we were in no haste to depart), the doors were
+opened to admit a further batch of impatient voyagers, and even then only
+one half of the expectant throng could be admitted, the remainder being
+advised to betake themselves to the restaurants in the town.  We shall
+not soon forget our experiences at the Honolulu Hotel, the landlord of
+which is no less a personage than His Most Gracious Majesty the King of
+the Hawaiian Islands.
+
+We occupied the remainder of the limited time at our disposal in walking
+and driving around the town and neighbourhood.
+
+The date and other palms, india-rubber and cocoanut trees, tree ferns,
+guavas, and other kinds of tropical vegetation flourish here in great
+abundance.  Flowers of the most brilliant colours grow everywhere, and
+the houses of the better classes seem perfect little paradises, with
+numerous jets of water flying.  The grass is delightfully green and
+beautiful, and great dragon-flies flit about in all directions.  Here and
+there we came across a group of little black-eyed, brown-faced, merry
+children, looking shyly at the white strangers, and rushing wildly along
+the streets.  We also met numbers of natives on horseback, dressed in
+splendid colours—red, blue, yellow, and green—all mixed, or in masses of
+one or more of these delicate hues.  “Will you ride,” said one.  “Not
+to-day,” I said, “perhaps to-morrow.”  “That no good,” replied he, “for
+steamer sails tomorrow!” and off he went at a gallop.  They are sharp,
+sprightly fellows, very handsome, wonderfully lithe and active, and have
+dark, flashing eyes.
+
+The women of the labouring class are very stately looking, and walk with
+a dignity and grace a duchess might envy.  Their clothing is not of a
+very extensive character, consisting apparently of one long loose robe,
+gathered neatly around the neck and wrists, with gay-coloured ribbons,
+and suggesting the idea that seven years would be an unnecessary time for
+a Honolulu girl to be bound to learn dressmaking.
+
+Meeting a number of little girls returning from school, I tried to get
+them to come and read to us out of their books.  They were very shy, and
+it was some time before they would venture near us.  At last one of them
+let me have her book, and I saw that her name was Emma—after the good
+queen of that name, who visited England a few years since—so I said,
+“Now, Emma, read us something, and I will give you this,” holding a new
+threepenny piece before her.  At once she came and read a page in the
+true conventional schoolgirl monotone.  The book was printed in Honolulu,
+and was in the native language, which sounded sweet, and free from
+harshness.  She was a nice-looking little girl, quite a “brownie,” and
+was much pleased with her threepenny-piece.  The children were delighted
+at seeing Queen Victoria’s face on the coin, and frequently repeated her
+name.  The race is fast dying out, and in a few generations will become
+extinct.
+
+During the day we visited a school, and looked over the Parliament House,
+which is a handsome building.  The hall is very large and lofty, and so
+also are the rooms, the walls and ceilings being lined with a smooth
+white enamel.  In connection with the House of Parliament there is a
+tolerably good library, and the nucleus of a good museum, but the country
+is very poor; indeed I am told it is almost bankrupt.  On passing the
+post-office it occurred to us to ask if there were any letters for us,
+although we did not expect any, and putting our cards on the table we
+said we supposed there were no letters for us.  “Oh, but there are
+though,” the clerk said, “and I am very glad to get rid of them,”
+whereupon, to our intense delight, he produced a huge packet of letters
+and papers.
+
+While driving into the country we passed many pretty villas, with gardens
+full of splendid shrubs and flowers, and on to a native village.  The
+houses are made chiefly of large rushes, which grow here in great
+abundance.  There seem to be no chairs or seats in the houses, every one
+squatting on the ground.  We passed some native women carrying their
+babies, and I asked if they would sell me one.  “Yes, for a dollar,” one
+replied; but when I said “Very well, then, bring it here,” she altered
+her mind, which was a good thing for me, for I should not have known what
+to do with a black baby.
+
+              [Picture: Ruth, The King’s Sister (Died 1883)]
+
+The temperature of Honolulu ranges between 60° and 88°, and the islands
+are always fanned by the N.E. trade winds, rendering them exceedingly
+healthy.
+
+Our visit conveyed the impression to our minds that it would be
+impossible to spend a month more delightfully than among the Hawaiian
+group, and we bade adieu to Honolulu with the greatest regret.
+
+It was a beautiful moonlight evening when we left Honolulu for San
+Francisco, and after many months’ travelling by land and sea, we began to
+feel that we were at last really homeward bound, for would not our _next_
+voyage land us at Liverpool?  While at Honolulu we received a very
+considerable addition to our passenger list in the persons of a number of
+Americans, of both sexes, some of them being gentlefolks and some of them
+not.  We also took on board three thousand bundles of bananas, which were
+hung up in the netting all round the promenade deck.  This was a most
+unfair arrangement on the part of the captain, as not only were the seats
+on this deck rendered unavailable, and a large portion of the space
+occupied, but the ship became overrun with centipedes, some of them five
+inches long, making it like Egypt during one of the plagues, “for they
+were in all our quarters,” in our beds and in our clothes.  Americans, as
+a rule, are not good sailors.  Hence it is that when commencing a voyage
+they take it for granted that they are going to be ill, and make their
+arrangements accordingly.  My companions had been flattering themselves
+that the spare berth in their cabin would remain empty to the end of the
+voyage, but they were doomed to disappointment, for it was their bad
+fortune to receive one of the most bilious-looking of the new arrivals.
+On entering the cabin the first observation the Yankee made was, “Where
+d’ye throw up?”  The answer to which was, “We don’t ‘throw up’ at all.
+We _go_ up and lean over the lee side.”  The event proved the Yankee’s
+apprehensions to be well founded.  One party of Americans were returning
+from a prolonged residence on one of the islands of the Pacific, where
+they appeared to have acquired some of the native habits.  One day these
+people were taking their lunch on deck; it consisted of chicken and a
+native dish called “POI.”  The latter was a substance like bill-stickers’
+paste, and was contained in a large bowl.  The company, which numbered
+some five or six persons, men and women, sat upon the deck around the
+bowl, and, having learned from their new acquaintances, the savages, to
+do without spoons and separate dishes, helped themselves to the delicious
+mixture by each dipping two fingers into the common bowl until it was
+empty.  They then attacked the chicken, and had evidently taken lessons
+in carving from the same authorities, for they adopted the primitive plan
+of pulling it to pieces.  Of course these proceedings excited
+considerable remark among the passengers, but the party seemed quite
+insensible to observation.
+
+Another of our passengers was an American, named Steinberg, who had a
+grievance against the British Government on account of an alleged outrage
+on the part of an English man-of-war’s crew, in some dispute in the
+Samoan Islands.  He was nursing his wrath until he arrived at Washington,
+when he certainly thought England’s fate would be settled, and that she
+would be “chawed up catawampously.”  This man was accompanied by a Yankee
+journalist of a most anti-British type.  He was a sallow-faced man with a
+large square lower jaw, without any hair on his face, and with straight
+lanky locks, and, moreover, was something under five feet high.  He was
+so thorough-going in his hatred of everything British that when “God save
+the Queen” was sung at the close of a concert in the saloon, he got up
+with much fuss and stalked out, followed by some half-dozen of his
+countrymen.  We called the fiery editor “Jefferson Brick,” after Martin
+Chuzzlewit’s acquaintance.  On one occasion I heard a friend of this
+gentleman ask him if he had a chair on deck.  He said he had not, as the
+Britishers always brought a good supply.  I took the hint, and determined
+that, at any rate, he should not use mine.  Soon afterwards it happened
+that a sea, breaking over the deck, soaked the carpet seat of my chair,
+which obliged me to place it in a sunny position that it might dry.
+Presently I saw “Mr. Brick” deliberately fetch the chair, which was a
+very comfortable one, and, taking it into the shade, settle down on it.
+I went to him and remarked that the chair was quite wet.  “I guess it’s
+dry now,” said he, with the peculiar twang of a down-east Yankee.  Seeing
+that he failed to take the hint, I told him that the chair was mine and
+that I would thank him to give it up.  This he did, with a remark that he
+“did not see what people who were always walking about wanted with chairs
+at all.”
+
+We were not altogether without curious examples of our own countrymen as
+fellow-passengers.  One in particular, an Irish tradesman, from one of
+the New Zealand ports, seemed determined to amuse and be amused.  We
+called our friend “Mister,” because he addressed everybody by that name.
+It appears that “Mister” was too fond of liquor, and that he had to take
+an occasional holiday, in order to give his friends an opportunity of
+putting his affairs straight at home.  I was told that he had a
+flourishing business, which was managed by two able assistants, who
+insisted upon his leaving them for twelve months in the interest of the
+concern, under the penalty, if he returned, of their opening an
+opposition shop.  “Mister” told me he had been educated in four Colleges
+in Ireland, which, doubtless, accounted for the remarkable absence of
+knowledge he displayed.  He frequently alarmed us by the disappearance of
+the knife down his throat at the dinner table.  One evening he
+volunteered to read at one of the entertainments in the saloon, and
+caused great amusement by the richness of his humour and of his
+brogue—winding up his reading by the impromptu observation, “and shure it
+is oi that am moighty dray.”  We shall hear of “Mister” again when we get
+to San Francisco.
+
+One of our passengers, who died during the voyage, had been suffering
+greatly from severe pains in the head.  He had been told by a lady that
+sometimes great relief was obtained in such cases by rubbing brandy upon
+the head.  Soon after giving this advice the lady was walking down the
+saloon where there were a number of passengers and stewards, when she was
+astonished by hearing the poor invalid calling after her in the most
+excited manner, and to the no small wonderment of the passengers, “Miss,
+Miss, did you say brandy or whiskey?”  On one occasion the doctor was
+examining this patient, when the poor fellow appealed to him to do what
+he could for him, saying, “Doctor, I should like to have one more chance,
+do you see, and if you can put this old crazy machine together again and
+make it run once more I shall take it—_as a personal favour_!”  Before he
+became dangerously ill the invalid was in the same cabin with one of my
+friends, who one night was considerably disturbed by his dreadful
+coughing, varied at intervals by strong language respecting the cough,
+which, he declared, did not belong to him.  “It’s not mine, I never had a
+cough, it’s my head that’s wrong—this cough belongs to some other fellow;
+what’s it bothering me for?” and when some ladies gently remonstrated
+with him he said, “Look here, now, I guess it’s just as natural for me to
+swear as it is for you to pray!”  His end came suddenly at last, and in a
+few hours after, in the early morning, his remains were
+
+    “In the deep bosom of the ocean buried.”
+
+We sighted the entrance to the magnificent harbour of San Francisco at
+daybreak on a beautiful morning at the end of April, and when we
+approached it the sun had just risen, bathing the whole scene in a flood
+of golden light, fully justifying its name, “The Golden Gate.”  In a
+short time the city came in view, reminding me very forcibly of
+Sheffield, from the dense masses of smoke which hung over a large portion
+of it, for San Francisco is an important manufacturing place.  Soon we
+were boarded by a motley crew, composed of Custom House officers,
+hotel-touts, porters, agents for the railway, and a number of keen-eyed
+gentry, desirous of earning a cent anyway, honest or otherwise.  We had
+decided upon going to the famous Palace Hotel, and having found the
+agent, placed our luggage under his care, receiving checks for it, and,
+locking our cabin, proceeded on shore, where we found the most sumptuous
+omnibus we had ever seen waiting to convey passengers to the hotel.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+The Palace Hotel in San Francisco is quite a town in itself, containing
+as it does over a thousand rooms, and with rarely less than a thousand
+inhabitants, including servants, only a limited number of the latter,
+however, living in the house.  The establishment has its own gas-works,
+four artesian wells, affording an abundant supply of the purest water; it
+also possesses a thoroughly good fire-brigade, and an efficient system of
+police.  There are five hydraulic lifts for the conveyance of guests and
+luggage to each floor of the house.  The rooms on the ground floor are
+25ft. high, and of corresponding size, the breakfast room being 110ft. by
+53ft., the dining room 150ft. by 55ft., the walls being hung with
+excellent copies of the best works of the great masters.  The corridors
+are lined and paved with white marble, and the grand staircase is of the
+same material.
+
+The bedrooms are very large and airy, and they all have comfortable
+dressing-rooms attached, with hot and cold water supply, and with a dozen
+beautiful towels—a very refreshing sight to the voyager who has been
+cooped up for the previous month in the limited space allotted to
+passengers on an ocean steamer.  The bedrooms have baths adjoining them,
+each bath being arranged for two rooms; there is also a service-room on
+each landing, where a dusky negro is always in attendance.  Upon each
+landing there is a tube for the conveyance of letters for the post direct
+into the letter-box at the general office.  There is also a pneumatic
+despatch-tube for the conveyance of messages and parcels to and from any
+point on the different floors.  Upon the garden floor of the hotel there
+is an arcade promenade 12ft. wide, with entrances to all the shops under
+the hotel, upon the street level, each shop having a show window upon
+this promenade.  There are three inner courts, the centre one being
+140ft. by 84ft., covered with glass of the same height as the roof of the
+hotel.  It has a carriage and promenade entrance from the street of 44ft.
+in width, and a circular carriage way of 54ft. in diameter, which is
+surrounded by a marble-tiled promenade and a tropical garden.  The garden
+is well supplied with exotic plants, statuary, and fountains.  Around
+this centre court and upon every storey there is an open gallery from
+which all the bedrooms are entered, and from which they receive light and
+fresh air.  The dining rooms are fitted with a large number of small
+tables for parties of from four to eight persons, an arrangement very
+much superior to the long tables in most _salles à manger_.
+
+There are about four hundred waiters, one-fourth only being white men,
+the rest negroes.  The latter seem specially adapted for waiting, being
+active and nimble, and seeming to anticipate every wish.  They receive £1
+per week wages and their board, but lodge away from the house.  A fresh
+bill of fare is printed daily for each meal, and the variety of food is
+very great, there being a choice of about seventy dishes at dinner.  In
+the kitchen are twenty-seven French cooks, besides assistants—a
+sufficient guarantee for the excellent manner in which the food is
+prepared.
+
+There is a splendid laundry in the house, where the washing is done by
+fifty Chinese washer_men_, and certainly never was linen more exquisitely
+got up than here.  These Celestials are specially successful in all kinds
+of starching requiring a smooth polished surface, such as shirt fronts.
+The mode in which they apply the starch is quite novel, for having taken
+a mouthful they blow it out on to the article in a continuous fine spray,
+while their hands are occupied in ironing.
+
+The servants take their meals in _table d’hote_ fashion, being waited on
+by a batch of their fellow servants, and everything is conducted with the
+greatest possible regularity and order.  I was much pleased to find that
+all the gas and water fittings, also the hydraulic lifts and pumps, were
+supplied by English makers, and were such as to command the admiration of
+everybody.
+
+An American gentleman, hearing me speak of the hotel, asked me how I
+liked it?  I told him I was greatly delighted with it; that it was a
+palace, indeed, in all its arrangements, but that in one respect I had
+been not a little astonished at what I had seen there—the presence of the
+extreme of civilisation face to face with a very close approach to
+barbarism.  “How is that,” said he.  “Why,” I replied, “you are only
+supplied with one knife and fork at meals; each guest has to dip his
+fishy knife into the butter, and the same process has to be gone through
+in taking salt and mustard; and seeing it is the fashion amongst the
+American guests to put the knife into their mouths, the idea is not
+pleasant.”
+
+I referred, too, to another peculiarity of the Americans arising, I
+believe, from their extensive use of the Virginian weed in chewing, and I
+said that the guests at the Palace Hotel, in passing through its marble
+halls, had not the same excuse for their conduct that the old Greek
+philosopher had when he was being shown over the palace by Crœsus, and
+when he excused himself for an unparalleled act of rudeness by saying
+“that such was the magnificence on every hand that the face of the king
+was the meanest thing that presented itself,” for the proprietor of the
+hotel had made the most ample provision for the national habit—a
+provision which was, however, very generally disregarded.
+
+The city of San Francisco is exceedingly well situated, and possesses
+many handsome streets, extensive hotels, and public buildings, but in
+none of these respects, save only in hotels, is it equal to Melbourne,
+though the evidences of great business activity and prosperity are much
+greater in the former city.
+
+The day after I arrived at the hotel I was surprised at receiving the
+following letter:—“Dear Tangye,—Should you wish to see me I am to be
+found at the above address, or a letter addressed to me, Box 339, Post
+Office, will reach me promptly.  My wife is dead.  A. J. C. Jarratt.”
+The name was quite strange to me, so I decided _not_ to go, but to send a
+friend.  My friend found the address, which was a wretched room at the
+top of a lofty pile of buildings, and after a few minutes’ conversation
+with the man he saw there, was very glad to get into the street again,
+not liking the aspect of things.  The following day, whilst seated at
+dinner with my friends, a waiter came to us and asked which was Dr. L—.
+On being told, he said a messenger from the chief of police was in
+waiting, wishing to see him.  I looked at the doctor and asked him what
+he had been doing.  Having finished our dinner we adjourned to the office
+and found the officer, who said his chief had received a telegram from a
+man in some town a hundred miles inland requesting him to send “his
+friend the Doctor” up to him as soon as possible.  Of course my friend,
+knowing nothing whatever of the man, declined to go up country.  I
+mentioned these polite attentions to a gentleman who was dining at the
+same table, and who I found was the leading lawyer in the city.  He told
+me it was a favourite dodge with the sharpers, and that they sometimes
+caught a “flat” in this way.  On the arrival of ocean steamers it is the
+custom to publish the names of the passengers in the evening papers,
+which accounts for the familiarity of these fellows with the names of
+strangers.  We had many amusing chats with this lawyer.  He remarked one
+day that I must have met with a deal of “character” in travelling.
+“Yes,” I said, “I had, both good and bad.”  “Wa-a-l, I guess its better
+to meet with a _bad_ character than none at all.”  Speaking of the
+neighbouring State of Nevada, which was still in a very unsettled
+condition, he said a friend of his was Governor there, and that he “was
+6ft. 6in. in height, and had a number three head and a number fifteen
+foot, for,” said he, “I guess weight of foot is more important there than
+weight of brain.”
+
+There are sharp men of business in the city who do not require offices in
+which to carry on their business.  If you are walking in the streets with
+a friend, and, meeting someone else, stop for a chat, you will see a
+’cute-looking fellow stop, and though he appears to be intent on
+something on the opposite side of the street, you will note that he is
+leaning his ear towards you, doubtless with the laudable intention of
+gaining a little information.  On one occasion we met one of these
+individuals.  He kept his ear open, and then struck in with “I guess you
+are going through to England.  I can put you up to the best way of doing
+it and calculate I can save you from forty to fifty dollars on the job.”
+We say we are much obliged, and will perhaps “call again.”  Then as you
+proceed along the streets attenuated fellows, with scanty, pointed beards
+and Mother Shipton hats, accost you with “Going east, gentlemen?  Guess
+you’ll want to change some money.  Come with me, gentlemen, and I’ll take
+you to the right place.”  “Thank you,” we say, “not to-day.”  “Wa-a-l,
+guess exchange will go against you to-morrow, gentlemen.”  Observing on
+the door of a very handsome house a brass name-plate with the name “Mrs.
+Doctor Sanders,” our guide informed us that there were many lady doctors
+in the city, and that they had very extensive practice.
+
+The Chinese are very numerous in San Francisco, there being more than
+40,000 of them there.  At the time of my visit, the feeling of the
+rowdies ran very high against the Celestials, and threats of wholesale
+massacre were freely used against them.  John Chinaman is a most
+industrious, frugal man, spending very little upon his living, and
+nothing upon his pleasures, always excepting his infatuation for opium.
+His needs being few, he can afford to work for very small pay, and thus
+comes into competition with the white workman.  This is the head and
+front of his offending, but it is aggravated by the fact of his being
+equally skilful as an artificer.  While the artisans have their special
+grievances about the Chinese, the wealthy classes have theirs also.  It
+is true “John” does his master’s work well and cheaply, but, as I have
+said before, he is not a spending man; his sole object is to get what the
+Yankees call “his little pile” as quickly as possible, and then return to
+his native land.  Nor is this surprising when we consider that every
+Chinaman leaves his little “Min-ne” behind him when he quits the Flowery
+Land, it being a very rare thing for a woman to leave China.
+
+The Chinese quarter is full of interest; the people swarm like bees, and
+live in a frightfully overcrowded state.  The butchers’ and barbers’
+shops are the most numerous and most interesting, the former being filled
+with a quantity of dreadful-looking little portions of meat, but it would
+puzzle the most learned to say from what animal they were cut.  The
+barbers’ shops are situated in the basements of the houses, with an open
+front towards the street, and they are very numerous, for the Chinese are
+close shavers.  On looking down you may see a number of men seated in a
+variety of positions, each one smoking a pipe of opium, while the barber
+is occupied in shaving every portion of his head and face, excepting, of
+course, his beloved pig-tail.  The swell Chinee is very particular that
+every hair shall be removed, and so clever do the operators become that,
+by means of tiny razors, they can shave the inside of the nose.  Some of
+the pig-tails are of enormous length, and sometimes the white rowdies
+attack the Chinese and cut their pig-tails off.
+
+          [Picture: The Chinaman (from a sketch by the Author)]
+
+When a man has an especially fine one, he either rolls it up at the back
+of his head and fastens it with hairpins, or else tucks it inside his
+blouse.  I noticed one of the latter in particular, a glimpse of which
+would have delighted Darwin himself.  The owner had evidently let down
+his back hair before putting on his blouse, and consequently the
+pig-tail, which disappeared at the back of the neck, emerged from under
+the blouse and extended to his heels.
+
+Some of our party, wishing to explore the Chinese quarter by night,
+engaged a detective to accompany them, it being unsafe to go unless so
+escorted.  The guide first took them over a lodging house, in which some
+hundred Chinamen were stowed away, literally almost as thick as herrings
+in a barrel.  Not only was the floor thickly covered, but suspended above
+it was a layer in hammocks, some smoking opium and others sleeping, none,
+however, taking the slightest notice of the intruding party.
+
+                         [Picture: Little Min-ne]
+
+On visiting the Chinese theatre during the evening they found
+preparations being made to celebrate a Celestial wedding.  This decided
+them to stay and see the ceremony, which was attended by a vast number of
+Chinese, the theatre being crowded in every part.  After the ceremony
+most of the spectators formed in the procession, which escorted the happy
+pair to their home.  My friends also visited the Joss Houses and
+inspected the queer-looking gods contained in them.
+
+While making some purchases in a Chinese shop it was necessary to give my
+address.  I wrote it out on a card thus—TANG-YE, upon which the Celestial
+at once claimed me as a countryman of his.  I disabused his mind of that
+idea by putting my fingers to the outer corners of my eyes and pretending
+to extend them in an upward direction, the absence of which peculiarity
+showed conclusively that I was not of the true Mongol type.  Curiously,
+however, on afterwards consulting a gazetteer, I found that there is in
+China a city named TANG-Y, containing over 30,000 inhabitants.
+
+The Chinese are accused of having brought with them a number of
+objectionable practices, but to anyone possessing a knowledge of the
+lower classes in American cities, it will not appear possible that the
+Chinese can be very much worse than they.
+
+Most of the traffic in San Francisco is carried on by the tramways, and
+it may not be out of place to put intending visitors on their guard with
+respect to a little peculiarity in their management.  It is advisable to
+tender the exact fare if possible, for if you give a larger sum the
+balance is returned to you, not in cash, but in tickets available for
+future rides, which you may have no opportunity of taking.  The hackney
+carriages are very fine, being almost equal to English private carriages.
+Most of those I saw were splendidly horsed with a pair of magnificent
+animals, generally black.  The lowest fare taken is ten shillings, but I
+am bound to say you can have full value for your money in the time and
+the accommodation given you.
+
+On Sunday morning the city presents a very lively aspect.  The
+fire-brigades and volunteers parade the streets, preceded by their bands,
+and thousands of people go by tramway and other vehicles to see the
+famous sea-lions at the entrance to the bay.  From the grounds in front
+of Cliff House they are seen on the rocks below in large numbers,
+tumbling about and making a noise like the barking of dogs, but so loud
+as to be heard from a distance of nearly a mile.
+
+The climate is a delightful one, the temperature being singularly
+equable, ranging, as it does, in summer from 60° to 70°, and in winter
+from 50° to 60° Fahr.  Indeed the weather is so beautiful that one cannot
+help referring to it frequently, but the invariable reply to any such
+observation is, “Well, I guess we shall have three months just the same
+right slick away.”
+
+                   [Picture: Seal Rocks, San Francisco]
+
+After nearly a fortnight’s stay at the Palace Hotel, enjoying its good
+fare, we began to think it time to move eastward, as we were getting too
+luxurious in our habits.  My friend the lawyer, however, remarked that we
+need have no fear on that account, as the fare on the Pacific Railway
+would cure the severest attack of gout.  Before leaving San Francisco we
+met our old friend “Mister” twice.  From a report in the newspapers we
+learnt that he had been brought before the magistrates and fined for
+carrying fire-arms in the streets.  “Mister” told us the police had taken
+all his money on the pretence of taking care of it for him.  When we last
+saw him he was leaning against a lamp-post, helplessly drunk.
+
+                     [Picture: The Last of “Mister”]
+
+The great excursion from San Francisco is of course to the Yosemite
+Valley, but we were compelled to forego the pleasure of making it on
+account of our visit being too early in the season.  Some of our
+fellow-voyagers from the Colonies ventured to go, but, unfortunately,
+they met with a serious carriage accident, owing to the roughness of the
+road, caused by the breaking up of the frost.
+
+In order to secure a good seat in the train going East, it is necessary
+to make arrangements a few days before starting.  Tickets can be obtained
+at a score of places in the city, and should be got as soon as possible;
+and in order to save all unnecessary trouble with the luggage during the
+journey, sufficient for use in travelling should be separately packed,
+and the remainder handed over to the Baggage Master, who has an office in
+the hotel, and who will give checks in exchange, and undertake to deliver
+it at any hotel or railway station in New York, or any other place in the
+States that may be named.  By attending to this overnight, immense
+trouble is saved, for, if left until the morning of departure, each
+traveller has to look after his own baggage amid a scene of the wildest
+confusion, and quite unprotected from the terrible heat and dust.  It was
+with a sense of great relief that we began to move out of the station,
+and to feel that at last we were fairly started on our ride across the
+Rocky Mountains.  The railway ride for the first two hundred and fifty
+miles is a splendid one, through the magnificent Sacramento Valley, which
+I should think is fifteen or twenty miles wide, and is most fertile.
+Here corn is grown year after year without any manuring being required.
+In many “cuttings” through which we passed the soil was twenty feet deep.
+We passed fields hundreds of acres in extent, with nice houses, orchards,
+and gardens, surrounded by fine oaks and elms, making the country look
+like a park for a hundred miles.  The corn, which in many places was over
+ten feet high, was fast ripening, and its glorious golden colour was
+often charmingly varied by immense patches of Marigold, Eschscholtzia,
+Lupins, and another beautiful flower which we did not recognise, all in
+full bloom.  We also saw our old Tasmanian friend the Eucalyptus
+(commonly called the Gum Tree), and many of the quaint Doré-like dead
+Blue Gums, looking white and ghostly.
+
+         [Picture: The Eucalyptus (from a sketch by the Author)]
+
+This is a magnificent State.  A gentleman remarked to me that when the
+richness of the soil is exhausted there remains untold mineral wealth
+below.  The people, too, are very energetic, and there is abundance of
+capital; so much so that a moneylender travelling in our carriage
+complained that it is difficult to get fifteen per cent. per annum now
+when some twelve years ago he could easily obtain five per cent. per
+month.
+
+Soon after leaving Sacramento the track ascends the mountains and passes
+through the old gold-diggings so much spoken of thirty years ago.  They
+are visible all around for miles, and some are still being worked.  All
+the abandoned ones have been re-worked by the Chinese, who have got a
+great deal out of them.  By and by we stopped at a station where there
+were several dreadful-looking Indians, some with their faces covered with
+red ochre and with feathers in their hair; others dressed in scarlet
+blankets, tall white hats, one-legged trousers and moccasins.  They all
+looked very grave and stolid.  I did my best to make one old fellow laugh
+as he stood on the platform with his arms folded, but his face was stony,
+and he remained steadfast and unmoveable.  Their hair is like whalebone,
+matted and shaggy; their noses and mouths are broad, and the women look
+uglier than the men.  Several of the women were carrying their _papooses_
+(babies) suspended over their shoulders, with the legs swathed like
+Neapolitan children.  The only occupation of these degraded creatures is
+begging and stealing.
+
+While we were passing through swampy tract the large bull-frogs were
+giving a croaking concert in full chorus, and a rare noise they made.
+
+Soon we began to sight the snow mountains, and by nine o’clock we were
+right amongst the pine forests and the snow, and very beautiful the scene
+looked with the moon shining on it all.
+
+Life on board a “Pullman” train is almost more peculiar than life on
+board ship.  My party were fortunate enough to secure a cabin partitioned
+off from the rest of the carriage; but the remainder of the sleeping
+berths have no partitions, being separated merely by curtains.
+Inexperienced travellers are apt to forget this, and sometimes cause much
+amusement in consequence.  One morning I heard a young lady complaining
+to her mamma that she could not find her stockings, a remark eliciting
+numerous offers of assistance from all parts of the carriage.  A
+neighbouring compartment was occupied by a lady and gentleman, the former
+of whom was deaf, and with the peculiarity often observable in deaf
+people, she imagined everyone else was deaf as well; the consequence
+being that there were no secrets in that cabin.  Every carriage has a
+negro attendant, whose duty it is to make the beds and attend to the
+lavatories, the ladies’ and gentlemen’s lavatories being at opposite ends
+of the carriage.  At half-past nine o’clock Sambo begins to prepare the
+beds, and soon after ten almost everyone has retired, and, as fortunately
+there are no decks to be paced, sleep soon comes to the weary.
+Arrangements are made for three meals a day, the train stopping at
+stations convenient for the purpose, and notice being given half-an-hour
+before.  Half-an-hour is allowed for each meal, the invariable charge
+being one dollar.  As the train stops a general stampede is made toward
+the dining-room, the position of which is unmistakable, for at the door
+stands a negro, with a face devoid of expression, vigorously sounding a
+gong.  As each person passes in he pays his dollar, and makes a rush to
+the end of the room, where the cook is usually stationed.  And now happy
+is he who possesses the Yankee’s qualification for a good diner-out, for
+unless he has a long arm, a quick eye, and a silent tongue, he is likely
+to come off with much less than a dollar’s worth.  The experienced
+traveller, before sitting down, gathers all the dishes before him, within
+arm’s length, and then proceeds to attack them _seriatim_, or sometimes
+all at once.  Indeed, I think a man of naturally generous disposition,
+would be made utterly selfish by twelve months’ travelling on American
+railroads.  As soon as the half-hour has gone, the guard calls out with a
+shrill, nasal, Yankee twang, “All aboard,” and we once more continue our
+journey.
+
+Happening one day to say to a fellow-passenger that I was from
+Birmingham, an American gentleman hearing me came across the carriage,
+and, raising his hat, said: “I _must_ shake hands with a person coming
+from the city which returns John Bright to Parliament.”
+
+The Pacific Railroad is a single track, and, although a wonderful
+engineering work, is not by any means a substantial or
+confidence-inspiring line, if judged by English standards.  The rails are
+old and worn, the bridges and viaducts very lightly constructed, and
+almost always of wood.  I observed in several cases that the carriages
+were actually wider than the viaducts, many of which are open between the
+rails.  It is hardly to be wondered at that awful accidents sometimes
+occur.  The train in which we were travelling narrowly escaped falling
+into a ravine 120 feet deep.  One dark night, after we had all retired to
+rest, we were awakened by continued whistling and ringing of bells.  It
+was in vain that we inquired of the guards and attendants as to what was
+going on, for they, like their brethren all the world over, would give no
+information.  One thing, however, they could not hide from us, for we
+found we were being taken across a viaduct one carriage at a time, and as
+we crossed we could see lights moving about at a great depth below.  On
+arriving at Omaha, two days later, we found a full report of the
+occurrence in the papers.  It appears that the viaduct had been
+discovered to be in an unsafe condition, some of its timbers having been
+partially burnt, and it was a matter of discussion whether we should be
+allowed to cross at all; it being ultimately determined, as I have said,
+to take one car over at a time.  Ours was the last train that went over,
+for before daylight the whole structure had fallen with a tremendous
+crash.  The Indians were on the war-path at the time, and it was supposed
+that the work of destruction was theirs.  The railway here runs through
+some of the most magnificent scenery in the world.  Sometimes its course
+lies through narrow valleys, or cañons, where there is just room for the
+railway and the river, sometimes through immense pine forests, and then
+again on a mere shelf cut in the face of the granite mountain, until the
+point called “Cape Horn” is reached.  This is the turning-point between
+east and west, and soon afterwards the greatest elevation is attained,
+8,200 feet.  About sixty miles of the more exposed portion of the road is
+covered with sheds, to protect it from the snow.  This result, however,
+is not attained without considerable discomfort to the passengers, as the
+carriages become filled with smoke and dust while passing through.
+
+One of the passengers on our train was an old man who had not crossed the
+country since he went out to the far west some twenty-six years
+before—long before the railway had been thought of.  The party with which
+he then travelled was so large that it had to be split into detachments
+for the convenience of pasturage.  One night his section was attacked by
+Indians, who killed several of the party and drove off most of the horses
+and cattle.  The old man had for many years been a trapper in the Indian
+country and had invested his hard-won earnings in horses which he was
+taking out west for the purpose of trade, and he was not disposed to lose
+them all at one fell swoop without making a bold dash for their recovery.
+His plan of operations was soon settled, and in the evening he set off in
+pursuit with half-a-dozen picked men, each with his rifle and a good
+store of ammunition.  After some hours they came upon the scent of the
+Indians, and moving cautiously forward amongst the scrub, presently saw
+them around their fires busily engaged in dividing the spoils of the
+morning.  The trapper being a first-rate marksman, it was agreed he
+should do all the firing, while the others loaded and handed up the
+rifles as fast as required.  Every shot told, and the redskins, judging
+from the rapid firing that the whole party of white men were upon them,
+made a regular stampede, leaving horses, and cattle, and other spoil
+behind them.  So, painfully marching on, they came at last to the Mormon
+settlement and on to the Salt Lake City, where they were subjected to the
+most cruel treatment at the hands of the “Saints.”  These people told the
+travellers it was impossible to get to California by the route they were
+taking, as the country was swarming with hostile Indians, and they
+undertook to show them a better way by which they would get there in
+fifteen days.  Many suspected treachery, and a consultation was held,
+which came to no definite conclusion, except in the case of one man, who,
+in the heat of debate, was shot dead.  It was ultimately decided to adopt
+the Mormon advice, and as the route did not admit of wagons, they tried
+to sell them to the “Saints,” who, of course, would not buy, knowing they
+would have them for nothing before long.  Many of the travellers burnt
+their wagons and harness rather than that the Mormons should have them,
+but the majority abandoned theirs, and set out without them.  Instead of
+fifteen days the journey took thirty-nine, and only a few survived it,
+most of the party dying by the way, either by the hand of the Indians or
+from fatigue.
+
+For about a thousand miles the railway is open to the prairie, the
+consequence being that frequent accidents occur through cattle straying
+upon the track.  I counted more than twenty carcases of these
+unfortunates in one day, and on one occasion, while sitting on the steps
+of the Pullman car, I felt a sudden check, and immediately after the body
+of a cow flew past.  The herds are looked after by men with lassoes,
+riding very fleet horses.  American railroads being much less protected
+from stray animals than those in England, the locomotives are provided
+with an apparatus called a “cow-catcher,” which consists of an iron
+framework projecting in front and inclined downwards as near to the rails
+as possible.  The contrivance is successful in moving most living
+obstacles from the track.  For instance, when a cow gets between the
+rails and sees the train approaching, it becomes dazed, and the iron
+frame striking the lower portion of the legs takes it up readily.  But
+with a bull it is quite different: when his lordship sees his enemy
+approaching he puts his chin down upon his fore-feet and waits the onset
+with a confidence not by any means always misplaced, for in this position
+his head and feet form a wedge which, becoming inserted beneath the iron
+frame, frequently throws the engine back upon the train, causing serious
+accidents.  When at Ogden I saw the remains of a goods train which had
+been wrecked in this way a week before, the engine drivers being killed,
+also two stow-aways, or “dead-heads,” as the Yankees call them, who had
+secreted themselves under one of the carriages.
+
+                           [Picture: Salt Lake]
+
+Waking one morning we found ourselves in a most awfully desolate country,
+with scarcely a sign of vegetation—a veritable dry and thirsty land,
+through which we travelled all day.  Towards evening we came to the
+alkali country, and the plains looked as though they were covered with
+snow.  This is a fearful place, where, before the construction of the
+railway, many poor emigrants have lain down to die.  Soon after, we
+skirted the margin of the Great Salt Lake and entered Brigham Young’s
+dominions, passing his first town, “Corinné.”  This town was founded by
+the Gentiles after Brigham turned them out of the Salt Lake City, but he
+soon drove them farther off.
+
+We left the train at Odgen in order to pay a short visit to the Salt Lake
+City, which is situated thirty-six miles off, and is approached by a
+railway belonging to the Saints.  For beauty of situation Salt Lake City
+is almost unrivalled.  It lies in a basin more than twenty miles in
+diameter, and is surrounded by mountains, some of which are 12,000 feet
+high, and most of them covered with perpetual snow.  At the time of our
+visit the fruit-trees were in full bloom, and, as each house is
+surrounded by its garden, the city occupies a large extent of ground,
+presenting a beautiful appearance from the United States camp, which
+stands on an elevation commanding the whole city, about two miles off.  A
+portion of the old mud wall, about ten feet high, built by the Mormons to
+resist the attack of the Indians, still remains standing.  Several of the
+houses are exceedingly well built, and the gardens kept in excellent
+order; one in particular I was much struck with, and remarked to our
+guide that it was the brightest and best kept place I had seen since
+leaving England.  He told me it belonged to an Englishman who had left
+for his native country on the previous day.  Curiously enough, when I
+returned home, I found this man was a brother of my butcher, and was then
+on a visit home.  We observed two ladies sitting in the front of the
+house engaged in needlework, and were told that they were the two wives
+of the English Mormon.  It was very noticeable that these ladies sat at a
+considerable distance apart, cordiality (unless it be of hatred) not
+being a characteristic of these Mormon wives in their relations with each
+other.  At the time of our visit the “Prophet” was down south, looking
+out for a new location for the Saints, in view of the threatened
+difficulties with the Central Government.  We visited the Tabernacle, and
+saw the preparations for the new temple, to which the deluded of all
+nations continue to contribute, although it is exceedingly doubtful that
+the building will be carried to completion.  The man who showed us over
+the Tabernacle used to work in a London factory; but he told us with a
+curious twinkle in his eye that the “new job” paid him much the best.  At
+a short distance from the city there is a sulphur spring, of considerable
+volume, proceeding from the side of the mountains; the temperature of the
+water is such that eggs can be boiled in it.  We slept at Ogden that
+night in order to be in good time for securing places in the train going
+east in the morning.  When the hotel bill was presented I tendered
+English gold in payment, having disposed of my U.S. currency.  The
+landlord refused to take it, saying, “He would not have the — British
+gold.”  I explained to him that I had no other money, but to no purpose,
+so, as the train was almost due, I told him I would pay him when I came
+that way again, but was not sure when that would be.  He quietly said, “I
+guess I’ll take your gold,” much to the amusement of the bystanders.  At
+the station here is a printed notice cautioning travellers to “BEWARE OF
+BOGUS TICKET SELLERS.”
+
+For three days after leaving Ogden we travelled through the snow, passing
+through a series of cañons or gorges, which narrow at the base until
+there is just room for the brawling stream which runs along the bottom.
+The railway in such cases is either excavated on one side of the gorge or
+carried on trestles over the stream.  The rocks on the mountain sides,
+mostly of red sandstone, are very bold and of strange shapes.  Amongst
+them is a very weird-looking group called “The Witches.”  Another group,
+known as “The Buttes,” bears a most striking resemblance to a line of
+strong fortifications commanding the valley.
+
+                         [Picture: Monument Rock]
+
+We saw these at sunset, and the effect of the evening light upon the red
+sandstone was very fine.  In the same neighbourhood is the celebrated
+Devil’s Slide; it is formed by the earth being gradually washed away from
+between two lines of vertical strata about 20ft. apart.  It is some
+hundreds of feet in length, and descends into the river.  This valley was
+the route taken by the Western Pioneers, and is marked here and there by
+solitary graves with crosses at their heads.
+
+                       [Picture: The Devil’s Slide]
+
+The whole 8,000 feet descent from the summit to the eastern plains is
+made in about four hours.  The steam is turned off, the brakes turned on,
+and down we go.  As we were preparing to descend I remarked to the negro
+attendant that I supposed we must trust the engineer now?  “No, sah,”
+said Sambo, “I guess we must trust de ole man up above,” pointing to the
+skies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+On reaching Chicago we left “the overland train,” with the object of
+paying a short visit to Niagara.  The last stage of our long ride was
+from Omaha, during which we crossed the Missouri and Mississippi.  There
+being three competing lines to Chicago the pace became greatly
+accelerated, so much so that during a considerable portion of the long
+ride it was almost impossible to stand on one’s feet, and the country
+being very dry, the train was enveloped in a cloud of dust almost the
+whole of the way.  We had, however, one compensation, for attached to the
+train was a well-appointed dining-car, with first-rate cuisine.  The
+viands were of the choicest quality, and in great variety.  Moreover, the
+speed of the train was slackened during meals, an arrangement affording a
+degree of comfort unknown on the Pacific Line.  The bill of fare is a
+curiosity in its way, being garnished with appetising mottoes and
+sentiments, such as, “As you journey through life live by the way,” “Eat
+and be satisfied,” and concluding with an expression of belief that
+passengers would appreciate this new feature of “Life on the Road.”
+
+In going through Chicago we were much surprised by the fine and
+substantial-looking buildings in every part of the city.  There are fifty
+to one hundred streets, any one of which is equal to the best in London;
+indeed, it struck me as being more of a city than any place I had ever
+been in.  We observed a whole block of buildings, including a bank on the
+ground floor, and offices above, being removed bodily without any
+disturbance of the business operations going on in it.  The water for the
+city supply is taken from Lake Michigan through a pipe which extends two
+miles into the lake.  The capacity of the pumping engines is seventy-five
+millions of gallons per day, the greatest demand being forty-five
+millions.  During the last few years there have been many disastrous
+fires in Chicago, directly traceable to the general employment of timber
+not only in buildings, but for the side walks and roadways.  The broad
+streets referred to above are, however, constructed of a fine
+warm-coloured sandstone, and all the new streets are being made of the
+same material.  Nevertheless, a considerable number of timber houses
+remain, constituting a standing danger to the city.  While in Chicago I
+found my passport useful.  On going to the bank to get some money on my
+Letter of Credit the manager told me they had not received a copy of my
+signature from the bank in England, and that in its absence they could
+not honour my draft.  It was in vain that I showed him my watch and other
+articles having my name engraved upon them.  He looked at them as though
+he thought there were various ways of getting possession of such
+articles.  I told him I regretted I had not been born with my name on my
+person, but I was not accountable for the omission.  I then thought of my
+passport, and although he appeared to think that it was possible to
+obtain possession of that improperly, he accepted it with the remark that
+“even that is not conclusive,” for it should have had a description of my
+person.  We stayed at the Grand Pacific Hotel, which formed a great
+contrast to the Palace Hotel at San Francisco, being uncomfortable and
+badly administered.
+
+At Detroit we cross the frontier into Canada, travelling over the Great
+Western Railway to Niagara.  This line was constructed by English
+contractors, and the superiority of the work is manifested in the smooth,
+steady motion of the carriages.  Compared with the lines we had
+previously traversed this was most comfortable.  We pass through London,
+Paris, and other places with equally celebrated names, greatly enjoying
+the forest scenery, numerous clearings and bright little homesteads
+dotted over the country; and for the first time since leaving England
+seeing lovely green fields such as we have at home.  At Niagara we
+stopped at the famous Clifton House, where we were joined by friends from
+England.
+
+Our impressions of Niagara were those common to most visitors—first, a
+feeling of disappointment, soon succeeded, however, by an ever-increasing
+sense of the immensity and magnificence of the Falls, which grows upon
+one the more one sees them.
+
+A sentiment of disgust, however, is inspired by the ruthless desecration
+of the most beautiful spots by Yankee manufacturers, who have chosen such
+picturesque positions for their smoky factories.
+
+                   [Picture: Under the Falls, Niagara]
+
+Another annoyance constantly experienced is from the peripatetic
+photographer, who endeavours to persuade you that you are greater than
+the “Falls.”  The Falls, indeed, are made to seem a mere background to
+your photograph, in which he is careful to show you nearest the camera,
+and hence proportionately by far the most imposing object.
+
+To get into Canada we have to cross the suspension bridge.  Going over
+one day we purchased about £1 worth of photographs of Canadian scenery.
+On returning with them we were accosted by the American customs officer,
+who mulcted us in nearly twenty shillings duty.  On entering his office
+to obtain a receipt we observed a “six-shooter” at his right hand,
+presumably for the purpose of persuasion.  On leaving the place I met an
+American policeman and told him what a shabby transaction it was for the
+representatives of so great a country.  He replied that he guessed the
+officer must raise his salary.  I refrain from any attempt to describe
+the mighty Falls of Niagara.
+
+On our way to New York we travelled by railway to Albany, the capital of
+the State of New York, passing through Syracuse, Rome, and Utica, along
+the shores of Lake Ontario, although from the lowering of the ground and
+the abundance of trees we were unable to see the lake; thence alongside
+the Falls River, through very charmingly diversified country with
+numerous valleys going up from the waterside, well-timbered, and here and
+there a clearing with open green fields.  The houses are in most cases
+mean-looking plank erections, presenting a very weather-beaten
+appearance, some painted a very dark red colour.  In the evening we
+reached Albany, an old Dutch town of over two hundred years, and very
+Dutch-looking it is with its queer red-brick houses, wooden pavements,
+and trees along the streets, and frequent peeps of the river here and
+there.  Amongst the finest public buildings are those devoted to the
+national schools, a true gauge of the importance the citizens attach to
+the education of the people.  On our way to New York we had an
+opportunity of taking a day’s sail on the River Hudson in one of the
+celebrated American river-boats.  Going on board we found ourselves on a
+veritable floating palace.  The steamer was a three-decker, two of the
+decks being covered with splendid carpets, and fitted with arm-chairs of
+a most comfortable pattern, and with velvet-covered ottomans and couches
+in all directions.  Taking up one of the books from the well-stocked
+bookstall I saw it purported to be one of a series of standard works by
+American authors, and on looking down the list I observed the names of
+Tennyson, Barry Cornwall, and others.  Our American cousins were always
+great at annexation, and the only wonder is they do not call their mother
+tongue the “American language.”
+
+The Americans seem anxious that everyone shall admit that the Hudson is
+finer than any other river in the world.  I have been down the Elbe,
+through the Saxon Switzerland, also down the Danube and the Rhine.  The
+Hudson is far more beautiful than the Rhine.  The banks are thickly
+wooded, and the villages and country houses prettily situated.  It is
+true that the Hudson lacks the romantic associations of the Rhine, but
+even in this respect it is not altogether wanting, for does it not
+possess the Catskill Mountains, with their legend of Rip Van Winkle?  But
+I like the Danube best; its banks are loftier and more rugged, and are
+covered with pines, and from its comparative narrowness one can see both
+sides at once.  Then again, the ancient towns and monasteries jutting out
+on the spits of land are infinitely more interesting than the wooden
+houses along the Hudson.  Again, the Elbe, especially in the Saxon
+Switzerland, is decidedly more beautiful than the Hudson; but for all
+this the latter is a river of which a nation may well be proud, and we
+greatly enjoyed our sail upon it.
+
+                 [Picture: The Pallisades, Hudson River]
+
+On a subsequent visit to the Hudson we landed at West Point, the seat of
+the celebrated military academy founded by Washington, where there are
+some hundreds of students.  Our hotel was situated about two miles from
+the academy, and overlooked the river from an eminence of about two
+hundred feet.  The river can be seen for some miles winding between steep
+banks on both sides.  The morning after our arrival was a Sunday, and the
+church bells were ringing for service.  There are two opposition churches
+here, but I have reason to believe they are very charitable to one
+another; at all events their respective bell-ringers do not believe in
+the jarring of the sects, for I notice that first one rings out
+one—two—three—four; then a decent pause, and his neighbour likewise rings
+out one—two—three—four, and so the celestial harmonies are not disturbed.
+
+On the opposite bank of the river is a place historic in the annals of
+the Revolution, for here it was that the American General Arnold was
+stationed while he was carrying on his treasonable correspondence with
+the ill-fated Major André.  Arnold was sitting at breakfast with his
+officers and some guests when word was brought him that André was
+captured as a spy by the Americans.  Knowing he would surely be
+incriminated, Arnold pretended he was wanted below on urgent business,
+and, going down to Beverley landing, he ordered his men to row him to the
+British man-of-war lying in the river.  Poor André, it will be
+remembered, was hanged by order of Washington.  His bust was placed in
+Westminster Abbey; three times since then has it been mutilated by
+miscreants.  Walking through the village we observed a mean-looking
+tumble-down tenement, with an equally mean-looking signboard stuck upon
+it, bearing this inscription:—“John Scales, Justice of the Peace, Notary
+Public.”  His “Honour” was sitting inside, in his shirt-sleeves, with a
+white apron on, while behind him on a shelf were a few old dry-as-dust
+books, of the law I suppose.  The whole place looked totally at variance
+with our ideas of the majesty of the law; indeed it suggested that
+“justice” could be had for the buying, and that no one was expected to
+pay much regard to the decision of such a court.  On returning to the
+hotel I spoke of this functionary to the negro waiter, suggesting that he
+_dealt_ in justice, “Yes, sah; I guess a dollar will go a long way with
+him,” replied he.
+
+               [Picture: John Scales, Justice of the Peace]
+
+Ascending the mountain we came across an old man at work on the roads.
+He was a German, having come to America in 1841.  He served in the
+Mexican war, and one of his sons was killed in the war against the
+Southern rebels.  The old man said it was hard work mending roads, and
+that the winters were very severe, “but,” said he, “it is a free country,
+and that makes up for all.  In Germany a man dares not open his mouth,
+but here one can say what one likes.”
+
+Passing by a farmyard our curiosity was aroused by seeing the stock of
+poultry secured by the leg to the fence.  As we had often heard in our
+travels in the States that this was “a great country,” we presume this
+was an expedient adopted to prevent the fowls straying and being lost.
+Of course, England being so small, such precautions are not necessary.
+
+We returned to New York in another of the celebrated river-boats.
+
+During my stay in the States there were two great subjects which
+monopolised public attention.  These were the Centennial Exhibition which
+had just been opened: and the wave of corruption among officials and
+others which was sweeping over the land.  More space was occupied in the
+Press by charges of malversation and fraud on the part of the officials,
+from the President down to the lowest civil service clerks, and from them
+through all grades of society, than with the Exhibition itself or with
+any other subject, while the talk in the streets seemed to be about
+nothing else.  In alluding to the unlawful gains made in this way by many
+prominent citizens, a New York paper made use of a sentiment of Mark
+Twain to the effect that whereas in times past folks used to say “poor
+but honest,” now-a-days when you see a rich man who has accumulated money
+in a proper way it is said that he is “rich but honest.”
+
+I have travelled in many countries, but in almost everything have found
+America twice as dear as any other country.  The charges are simply
+monstrous.  Having to go from an hotel to the steam wharf, we were not
+permitted to take our very modest amount of luggage in the omnibus with
+us, although we had the vehicle all to ourselves; but the hotel people
+insisted upon sending it in a special wagon, charging two dollars for
+what a cabman in Birmingham would willingly have done for a shilling.  On
+board the steamer we were charged six shillings each for a plain dinner,
+without wine, which in England would not have cost more than 1s. 6d.
+Bound books are equally dear.  Pocket volumes, containing not more than
+one-sixth of the matter in a shilling volume of Chambers’ “Miscellany of
+Entertaining Tracts,” were charged two shillings each.  Most of the
+newspapers, also, are very inferior to, yet much dearer than, the English
+papers.  Another form of extortion is to be found in the impossibility,
+in many hotels, of obtaining information as to the sailing of
+river-boats, departure of trains, etc., the only apparent explanation
+being a desire to give “touts” and “loungers,” of whom there are many,
+opportunities of extorting money.  These fellows seem to know nothing
+unless they can hear the dollars chink, or see the dirty greenbacks (and
+some of them are very dirty).  A fellow once gave me in change a dollar
+note which was so filthy that scarcely a word was legible upon it.  It
+looked as though it might contain smallpox or typhoid, so I asked him to
+wash it.  He said he guessed he would—_for a dollar_.
+
+Against all this, I am bound to say that the charges made by the
+steamboat companies and most of the railways are exceedingly moderate,
+and their arrangements in connection with baggage most convenient.  On
+arriving at any of the large cities by river-boat, the agent of the
+Luggage Express Company comes on board and takes possession of your
+baggage, giving vouchers for it.  He also undertakes to collect any
+baggage you may have sent to the City Railway Station from distant parts
+of the country, and very soon after you arrive at your hotel it is
+brought to you.  At the landing stages in such cities as New York there
+are numbers of cabs, mostly driven by Irishmen, and when they find you
+have disposed of your luggage and do not require their services, they
+give vent to their disgust in no measured terms, and if the traveller is
+a Britisher, he is soon reminded of the fact.
+
+The mode of dealing with baggage on the railway is almost equally
+convenient.  The following will give some idea of it.  You are
+travelling, say, from Aberdeen to Penzance, intending ultimately to
+proceed by way of London to Dover, and do not require the bulk of your
+luggage till you arrive at the latter place.  On leaving Aberdeen, the
+Baggage Master takes your superfluous luggage, putting brass labels upon
+it, thus—
+
+                               ABERDEEN—DOVER.
+                                     846.
+
+giving you corresponding labels, after which you have no further occasion
+to trouble yourself in the matter until you get to Dover.
+
+We visited the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia for the purpose of
+inspecting the various productions corresponding to our own, hoping,
+indeed expecting, to find something which would repay us for coming.  We
+were, indeed, repaid, but in a sense totally opposed to what we expected,
+for we found that so far from Americans being in advance of the English,
+they were, in many cases, taking credit for so-called “improvements”
+(claiming them as novelties), which we had been familiar with, and had
+used in our own works many years before.  They appear to be strangely
+unaware of what has been done in European countries, and a single
+instance will illustrate this.  The machinery in the Exhibition was
+driven by a single large steam-engine.  The newspapers made a great deal
+of this engine, declaring that it was the largest in the world, and that
+it had been made in the smallest State—Rhode Island.  An American
+engineer with evident pride took us to see the big engine, which, after
+all, had a cylinder of only 70in. diameter.  We told him that
+five-and-twenty years before a small engineering firm in Cornwall,
+England, had made several engines with cylinders 144in. in diameter, and
+which are yet at work.
+
+We were permitted to inspect some of the most important engineering
+establishments, and found the tools of such an inferior character that
+our only wonder was that they could produce either good or cheap work.
+In most cases the floors of the workshops were inches deep in ferruginous
+dust.  Under such conditions every time a heavy casting is dropped on the
+floor a cloud of dust must rise, and entering the bearings of the tools,
+cut them up badly.  We found many of the tools actually wedged up because
+of this.
+
+An American manufacturer speaking to me of a visit he had paid to the
+Exhibition in company with his foreman, told me how astonished the latter
+was at the excellence of the European exhibits.  He said he had no idea
+they could make the things half so well, “for,” he said, “they are almost
+as good as ours,” and, I added, “only one half the cost.”
+
+The agricultural machinery was exhibited in a separate building erected
+specially for its reception, and here the Americans were unmistakably far
+ahead of all competitors.
+
+At the time of our visit several consignments of calicoes had been made
+to England and to various British markets, and sold at prices
+considerably below what they could be produced at by English
+manufacturers.  This incursion occasioned great disquietude in England
+until the cause was manifested—viz., overproduction.  On this point I
+read an article in a New York Protectionist paper intended as an answer
+to the Free Trade argument, that Protection increased the price of goods.
+The article stated that this was not so: and to prove its position said
+that the tendency of Protection was to induce people to go into
+manufacturing who know little or nothing of the processes they were
+undertaking, but who fancy that with the tariff of from 40 per cent. to
+80 per cent. upon foreign goods, there must necessarily be a sufficient
+margin to compensate for mistakes caused by their inexperience.  “And so
+it happens,” continues the writer, “that there is great over-production,
+ruinous competition among American manufacturers, frequent failures, and
+consequently large stocks of goods are forced on the markets at a great
+loss, the public getting cheap supplies in consequence.”  Adam Smith
+would scarcely have quoted this as one of the methods of adding to the
+wealth of nations.  But if the people at large obtain their cotton goods
+cheaper through this system of over-production, it is clear that the
+millowners are not the only sufferers, for it appears from a speech
+delivered by Mr. Shearman of New York, at the Cobden Club dinner in the
+present year (1883), that the wages of the factory operatives are twenty
+per cent. less than in Lancashire, while their hours of labour are from
+eighteen to twenty per cent. longer.
+
+During the late Fair Trade agitation its advocates were never tired of
+telling the English working-classes that under Protection their brethren
+in America were prospering in a remarkable degree, but in the speech to
+which I have referred Mr. Shearman shows that the average wages in
+protected trades are actually less than in 1860, the last year of
+comparative Free Trade, and that while in the ten years previous, wages
+were constantly increasing, during the succeeding twenty years
+(1860–1880) there was no appreciable advance, while during the past three
+years they have been steadily declining; so that here we have one of the
+staple trades of the country requiring longer hours of labour from the
+operatives, at considerably lower wages than for the same class in
+England, while the cost of living is much higher than in this country,
+and the climate much more trying from the extremes of heat and cold.
+
+Nor is this all, for the American operatives have very much less
+relaxation than the same class in England, their holidays being very much
+fewer.  Last year my workpeople, in addition to fifty-two Saturday
+afternoons, had nineteen whole days, although there was abundance of work
+for them, and the necessities of the business only required six days
+closing of the works.  The English artisan loves to have a deal of
+liberty, and his earnings enable him to indulge his desire in that
+respect.
+
+As may be supposed, the ranks of the operatives in the cotton mills of
+America receive no accession from England, but only from Germany and
+Scandinavia, where wages are low, and the oppressive military systems
+drive people from their native countries.
+
+During the last seven years of depression in trade in England it is well
+known that, taken as a whole, the working classes have suffered
+comparatively little, the loss falling mainly upon manufacturers, whose
+profits have been greatly lessened.  But how would the working-classes
+have fared if, in addition to the loss of home trade involved in the
+failure of the crops for so many years, the same causes were in operation
+which make it impossible for America to have a great foreign trade?
+
+It is manifest that so long as Protection exists in the United States
+exports must necessarily be confined almost entirely to such commodities
+as other countries cannot produce.  Until recently the home demand has
+kept the manufacturers in the States well employed; but competition has
+now become exceedingly fierce, and they are beginning to tread upon each
+other’s heels.  It is this state of things which is destined to exert the
+most potent influence upon the fate of Protection.  The very class which
+has hitherto been loudest in demanding prohibitory duties upon imports,
+will soon, from sheer necessity, be found demanding their removal.
+
+It is worthy of note, too, that while under Protection the earnings of
+the producing class have been steadily declining, colossal fortunes,
+amounting in one case to twenty or thirty millions sterling, have been
+built up by individual monopolists.  On the other hand, during the same
+period and under Free Trade, there has been a wider distribution of
+material comfort in England, and, as shown by the official returns, a
+decided decrease in the number of millionaires.
+
+In passing through America on my return from Australia in 1876, I
+expressed the opinion that Free Trade there would be by no means an
+unmixed blessing for English manufacturers, for whereas at the present
+time a vessel going to Australia from the United States with a cargo of
+goods has to come back in ballast, doubling the cost of freight, under
+Free Trade it would take back a cargo of wool, and the Americans would
+consequently become our competitors both in buying and selling.
+
+With the single exception of having higher wages—and this advantage is
+more than balanced by the extra cost of living—I have failed to find that
+American artisans are in any way better off than the English, while, as I
+have already shown, their hours of labour are longer and the effect of
+the climate much more exhausting.
+
+A very striking feature to be met with in most American cities and towns
+is the large number of tolerably respectable-looking men loafing about
+and doing nothing.  In England such men, only in shabbier dress, would be
+called “cadgers.”  I am told there are large numbers who prefer any
+shifty mode of obtaining a living so long as they can wear a black coat
+and avoid honest labour.  In the villages along the banks of the Hudson I
+saw more children without shoes and stockings than are to be met with in
+any part of England in a similar area.  They go to school shoeless, and a
+woman told me that when shoes were put on their feet on Sundays they
+complained loudly.  A land of freedom for tongue and foot!
+
+During the Southern rebellion fears were expressed that the result of
+emancipation would be to flood the markets of the North with negro
+labour, but this does not appear to have been the case.  As long as
+slavery existed the North was attractive to the negro as the land of
+freedom, but when freedom was proclaimed throughout the States the negro
+naturally elected to remain where he had always been—the climate and
+surroundings being well suited to him.  The head waiter at our hotel at
+West Point was a slave in Richmond until the middle of the war, when he
+escaped to Washington.  I asked him how he got there.  “Oh, by the
+underground railway,” said he.  It took him a week to travel the hundred
+miles, and he had many narrow escapes, but was fortunate enough to come
+out all right and to get a situation to wait upon one of Abraham
+Lincoln’s sons.  He told me his owner, a lady, taught him to read and
+write in face of the certainty of being sent to jail in case of being
+discovered.  His father was sold away down south sixteen years before,
+but since that day they had again met at Richmond.  “Well,” I said,
+“neither Jeff. Davis nor any of his crew will ever play you such pranks
+again.”  “No Sir,” said he.
+
+The regulation of the liquor traffic in the American cities appears to
+present as many difficulties as it does in England, especially as regards
+the Sunday traffic.  The Sunday before we left New York the police made a
+raid upon the liquor dealers in the city, and arrested a number of them
+for selling during prohibited hours.  Their organs threatened all sorts
+of reprisals at the coming election, and a meeting of the trade was
+called to condemn the action of the authorities.  Most of the
+requisitionists—judging by their names—were either German or Irish.  At
+the time appointed some hundreds of liquor dealers assembled, and
+presently a gentleman came on the platform and began to address them.
+Soon, however, it began to dawn upon the trade that they had been
+somewhat considerably sold, for the speaker gave them a regular teetotal
+lecture, enlarging upon the evils the dealers were responsible for, and
+warning them to forsake their wicked ways.  The audience could not stand
+this, and threatened the orator that if he didn’t “make tracks right
+away” they would give him “something hot,” upon which he quietly retired,
+having given them the first temperance lecture they had ever heard.
+
+Our visit to America was brought to a fitting termination by another
+glorious excursion on the Hudson: after which it was with great pleasure
+and satisfaction that we went on board one of the splendid White Star
+Liners, soon to land again on the shores of dear old England.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+We arrived off Suez about four o’clock on the morning of the 1st of
+March, having travelled from Australia in the magnificent steamship
+“Orient.”  After saying farewell to our friends, at seven o’clock we set
+out for the shore, our boat being manned by a picturesque party of Arabs.
+We had about four miles to go, the latter portion of the journey being
+through water so shallow that the men had to propel the boat by nimbly
+running forward and placing one end of the oar in the mud and pushing
+against the other with the shoulder; singing a monotonous song all the
+while.  On arriving at our landing-place opposite the Custom House, a
+motley crowd rushed forward, some dressed in night-shirts, some in
+towels, others in their own black skins only. When we stopped, a score of
+them dashed into the water and began to seize our luggage, seeing which
+our boatmen called to us to beat them on the head with our umbrellas, and
+to kick them off; but we managed to defend our property by loud words,
+which broke no bones.  Then we were carried ashore amidst such shrieking,
+hustling, jostling, and shouting as I had never heard or seen before.
+The luggage was set down in the middle of the square to await the arrival
+of an official from the Custom House.
+
+                          [Picture: A Dragoman]
+
+After a very slight examination we were permitted to pass, and then began
+another battle for the luggage; but we selected as our dragoman a tall,
+stout fellow named Hassan, who quickly routed the others; and then a file
+of these half-naked Arabs marched off to the hotel with the luggage on
+their backs.  The Suez Hotel is a very comfortable establishment, with
+large, clean, and airy rooms, and bright and attentive native servants.
+
+After breakfast we went for a stroll through the town.  The streets are
+very narrow, and the tiny shops are filled with vegetables and other
+garden produce, oils, simple metal wares, etc.  In one street the Bedouin
+Arabs have stalls for the sale of charcoal, brought by them from the
+desert; a very sullen, repulsive set of fellows they appear to be.  There
+are few European buildings, and what there are were built for the French
+officials during the construction of the Canal.  These were all vacated
+during the Franco-German war, and very few French have since returned,
+consequently the houses are in a very dilapidated condition.
+
+Before leaving England we had arranged for a party of our friends to meet
+us at Suez, and on returning from our stroll in the town, we walked for a
+while in the large inner court of the hotel, when presently we saw our
+friends entering, they having landed just three hours after our arrival
+from Australia.
+
+After lunch, nine of us took donkeys and had a ride round the town and
+neighbourhood.  Not being assured of my riding ability, I asked my
+companions to keep near me, which they promised to do, and which they
+doubtless would have done if they could; but alas! their noble brutes
+dashed off at full speed, and I was left alone.  At every street corner
+stood a mob of darkies shouting, laughing, and begging, and calling out
+the names of the various donkeys, “Mrs. Langtry,” “Mrs. Cornwallis West”
+(this was mine), “Mr. Spurgeon,” etc.  On getting back to the hotel gates
+there was a crowd of about fifty donkeys, all their fifty drivers wanting
+us to engage them for our next ride, and it required a vigorous use of
+Hassan’s stick to clear a passage for us.
+
+On the following morning we left for Cairo by train, and in due time
+Hassan appeared with about a dozen men and a shaky old wagon to take our
+luggage to the station, and truly it was a formidable lot—a lady and
+gentleman from Australia having no less than nine trunks.
+
+                    [Picture: An Egyptian Donkey-Boy]
+
+At the hotel gate stood the usual fifty donkeys, their drivers all
+shrieking out to you to take their donkeys.  “My donkey good donkey, sah;
+his name, Mrs. Langtry.”  “‘Dis donkey, Sir Roggar (_sic_) Tichborne,
+sah; he go gentle.”  You have to push through the crowd of men and
+animals as you best can.  The never-ceasing word _backsheesh_, or its
+abbreviation _’sheesh_, hissing in your ear all the way.  On suddenly
+turning a corner you may come upon a lot of children or grown-up people
+engaged in play or other occupation, but they are always ready.  Their
+hands are immediately stretched out, and the cry is on their lips,
+_’sheesh_! _’sheesh_! nor do they seem surprised if you fail to respond.
+Sometimes I vary it by putting out my own hand, with temporary success as
+far as checking their begging goes, but they are soon equal to the
+occasion, and with mock gravity will offer a quarter piastre—about a
+halfpenny—and then you laugh and they laugh.
+
+I had often read, that properly to understand Biblical allusions it is
+necessary to travel in the East.  This constant extending of the hand for
+_backsheesh_ gave me an entirely new appreciation of the passage,
+“Ethiopia shall yet stretch forth her hand.”
+
+After much excitement the train at last starts, and a mob accompanied it
+as far as they can keep up by running, hoping against hope that you will
+at length relent and throw them some money.  Once I offered a beggar a
+new penny, but he handed it back very gravely, saying “No good—piastre”
+(meaning that he wanted a piastre); but I pretended to be offended, and
+did not give him anything.
+
+Every little station on the road is infested with crowds of natives
+hoping for _backsheesh_, and it is wonderful what vast numbers of people
+there are who have nothing to do.  At most stations you will see an
+ill-favoured fellow with a goat-skin across his back, filled with water,
+but I should have to be very thirsty indeed before I could drink from it.
+An hour after leaving Suez we saw our old friend the s.s. Orient in the
+Canal close alongside, having taken twenty-four hours to accomplish this
+distance.
+
+                      [Picture: The S.S. “Orient.”]
+
+At Ismailia we stopped some time, and a lad wanted to clean my boots
+which, however, did not require cleaning, so I told him to black the bare
+feet of a brown boy who was standing by.  This he proceeded to do in the
+presence of a crowd of grinning spectators of all colours—yellow, brown,
+coffee-coloured, and jet black.  The lad whose feet were blacked seemed
+to enjoy the fun very much, and when it was over appeared to think he was
+entitled to a half piastre as well as the operator, so he got it.  The
+shoeblack then brought an ebony Nubian, whose skin was already a shining
+black.  He asked me if he might do his feet, but I made him understand it
+was quite unnecessary.  A grave-looking Turk observing the proceedings
+gave a look which seemed to say, “Mad English again.”
+
+At Zagazig we stayed two hours for luncheon, and were much interested
+with the infinite variety of costume and feature among the crowds
+thronging the station.  About half an hour before reaching Cairo, on
+looking through the window, we had our first view of the Pyramids.  On
+our arrival at Cairo we were greeted with a chorus of the usual kind, but
+having “wired” to the hotel a porter was awaiting us with an omnibus, and
+we were soon comfortably located in the new Grand Hotel.
+
+A walk to the Nile Bridge gave us a good view of the river.  The road to
+the Pyramids passes for some distance through a fine avenue of trees, and
+the river having encroached on the soil too near to the roots, we saw for
+the first time a phase of Egyptian life which is not pleasant—viz.,
+forced labour.  About 1,500 men were engaged in piling up earth against
+the roots, forming a thick, deep embankment against the river.  The soil
+is carried in baskets, and from the elevation where we stood the men
+looked like a swarm of ants.  These men are provided by the Sheiks of the
+villages on the demand of the Government, who pay nothing whatever for
+the labour.  The men receive neither wages nor food, but each village
+looks after the families of its absentees, and attends to their work
+until their return.  The men certainly seemed to labour with a will.
+
+The Nile begins to rise about the end of June, reaching its greatest
+height about the end of September, continuing for about fifteen days at
+twenty-four feet above low-water level.  If the rise be thirty feet great
+damage is done, and if it fail to reach eighteen feet famine ensues.
+
+We rode for some distance along the valley of the Nile, which varies from
+two to twelve miles in width.  It is very fertile, the soil being more
+than forty feet deep.  It is only needful to sow the seed immediately
+after the inundation, and in about four months the harvest is ready to be
+gathered.  The plough in use is a very primitive article; but the
+looseness of the soil renders stronger ploughs unnecessary.  In many
+places as we went along we saw the natives irrigating by means of the
+bucket and pole, with a counterbalance at the end (_shadouf_), raising
+water from the Nile and sending it along the channels over the fields.
+In one field we saw agriculture being carried on as Adam would have done
+before the Fall, had it been necessary, the men being quite naked, and
+digging the earth with their hands.
+
+Returning to the city we took a walk through old Cairo, along the narrow
+streets, passing many little workshops where various trades were being
+carried on, the owners appearing pleased at our noticing them at work.
+In one place some men were grinding beans with a huge pestle and mortar,
+and showed us some of the meal.  In a secluded corner we saw about a
+dozen old fellows in every variety of costume sitting on the ground
+listening to a very animated story being told by one of the party.  They
+appeared to be greatly interested, every now and then lifting up their
+hands in amazement.  These professional story-tellers are a great
+institution in Cairo.
+
+Passing down one of the narrow streets our attention was arrested by the
+busy hum of children’s’ voices, which we found proceeded from an upper
+room, the casement of which was open.  Our guide told us it was a school,
+and that the children were repeating passages from the Koran.
+
+                   [Picture: The Schoolmaster “Abroad”]
+
+One of our party, who had not forgotten the pranks of his boyhood, threw
+a number of new threepenny pieces into the midst of the boys, causing
+great excitement and confusion.  Presently an old man, with a fringe of
+white hair encircling his dark face, and wearing a huge pair of
+brass-framed spectacles, appeared at the open window brandishing his cane
+at us, but in a moment his whole attitude changed, and holding out his
+hand he uttered the familiar cry of—_backsheesh_.
+
+                           [Picture: A “Peep”]
+
+Our walk took us through one of the bazaars, which consist of very narrow
+lanes full of shops, with dealers in every variety of goods, most of
+which are made in the open.  We were particularly struck with the
+beautiful embroideries of gold and silver thread, and the expeditious way
+in which the workmen executed the various designs.  All were very anxious
+we should buy, and I overheard one old rascal offer our Coptic guide ten
+per cent. commission on our purchases.  We, however, made none.  In
+passing the carpet bazaar we saw an English party buying dingy carpets.
+
+The most interesting part of our day’s experiences was spent in the
+manufacturing quarter.  There are no large factories in Cairo, and I
+question if more than half a dozen people are employed at any one place.
+The work is carried on in the most primitive fashion in the little shops
+facing the street.
+
+                      [Picture: “Bery Cheap, Sah!”]
+
+There can be but few secrets in the various trades, as the workshops are
+all shallow, and open to the streets.  All the jewellers are in one
+street about 8ft. in width, each of them being provided with a safe,
+obviously of English manufacture.  I do not think, however, that the
+bellows used by them were made in Birmingham, for it was curious to note
+that they had no valves.  At the end of the jewellers’ street sits an old
+fellow like Abraham or Isaac, weighing precious metals in a pair of
+evidently very accurate scales.  This man acted as general weigher for
+the trade, and his operations were carried on in the face of the public.
+Leaving the bazaars we met a crowd of natives gesticulating, shouting,
+and frolicking in a very excited manner.  Standing aside to allow the
+throng to pass, we found it was a bridal procession conducting a bride to
+her husband’s home.  A few tattered minstrels walked in front, making a
+hideous noise on pipes and drums, while a gang of young men jumped and
+danced about, and indulged in the wildest horse-play.  The women were
+ornamented with strips of gilt paper and coloured ribbons, and had their
+cheeks thickly coated with rouge.  The bride walked under a canopy
+consisting of four poles covered with canvas and was quite enclosed.
+Sometimes this portable tent would collapse upon the fair one, whose
+struggles were prominently manifested by bulges in the canvas.  The whole
+party seemed to be making the most of the occasion.
+
+We next visited the mosque of Sultan Hassan, which was built in the 14th
+century, at a cost of £600 per day for the three years it took to
+complete.  It is the finest mosque in Cairo.  While standing beside the
+Sultan’s tomb within the mosque our guide related its history.  He said
+that for three years the Sultan had been absent from Egypt on
+pilgrimages, and that during his absence his Grand Vizier declared
+himself Sultan.  Hassan hearing of this returned to Cairo in the disguise
+of a poor pilgrim, and finding that he had still many adherents he
+consulted with some of the principal of them as to the best way of
+regaining his rights.  He first obtained permission to build this mosque,
+and when it was finished his partisans assembled in the building in large
+numbers.
+
+                  [Picture: The Mosque of Sultan Hassan]
+
+Hassan, still in the pilgrim’s habit, rose to preach to the people—this
+was the preconcerted signal for a general massacre of the usurper and his
+supporters; and thus Hassan recovered his throne.  At the entrance to the
+mosque our boots were covered with sandals, so that our feet might not
+touch the holy floor; but custom does not demand the removal of the hat.
+In the court-yard is a fountain where the faithful perform their
+ablutions before prayer.  In front of the niche looking towards Mecca
+were about a dozen persons at their devotions.  Just in advance of them
+stood a mollah or priest, and as he bowed his head or kneeled they did
+the same, concluding with chanting or singing a prayer.  Whilst we were
+looking around a little boy was following us, keeping a sharp look out
+lest our slippers should come off, and if they showed any signs of coming
+loose he at once brought up a man to fasten them.
+
+One of the sights of Cairo is the egg-hatching establishment.  This
+institution is rendered necessary, because the hens are too idle to hatch
+their eggs in this country, consequently the operation has to be
+artificially performed.  The people bring their eggs to the hatching
+place and receive one chicken for every two eggs.  I observed the
+Egyptian eggs are very small, due also to the laziness of the hens,
+doubtless.
+
+We next visited the citadel and the mosque of Mohammed Ali, a magnificent
+pile, built early in this century.  In the courtyard of this place the
+Mamelukes in 1811 were massacred by order of Mohammed Ali.  Fearing their
+power he invited them to the mosque, and closing the gates slaughtered
+them all, save one who escaped by leaping with his horse from the
+parapet.  The horse was killed, but the rider was uninjured.  About 450
+persons were here massacred, and 800 in other parts of the city.  The
+citadel commands a magnificent view of the city and surrounding country,
+and every evening large parties of tourists assemble there to see the
+sunset.
+
+The excursion to the Pyramids of Gizeh is now much more easily made since
+Ismaïl completed the carriage road by way of compliment to our Royal
+Princes on their visit.  Our party was conveyed in carriages, while
+donkeys had been previously sent forward for the use of the ladies.
+While on the carriage-road the view of the Pyramids is altogether lost
+till within a mile of the end of the journey, acacias having been thickly
+planted on either side of the road.  On leaving the carriages we were at
+once surrounded by beggars, who continued to infest us all the time we
+were in the neighbourhood.  Some were loud, almost menacing in their
+demands, others soft and insinuating.  One kind, which I call the “quiet
+devil” or “familiar,” creeps by your side, and whispers in your ear
+confidentially that he is “a good man”; that the others are “bad men”;
+that he will not bother you for anything; that you are “a good man”; that
+he will “help you, and keep off the others.”  But alas! he too is sure to
+whisper in conclusion _backsheesh_.  If the road is a little rough these
+“good men” seem to fancy you cannot get on without help, so one on each
+side puts a hand under your arm and half carries you along.  It is quite
+useless to protest; they look at you as though they would say, “poor man!
+he thinks he can walk by himself; but we know better; he would fall at
+once did we not hold him up.”  And then, when we reach level ground
+again, there is a universal chorus of—_’sheesh_, _backsheesh_.
+
+                  [Picture: Ascending the Great Pyramid]
+
+On arriving at the little house at the foot of the Pyramids our guide
+Abaid summoned the Sheik of the village, who proceeded to detail two men
+for each person who intended to make the ascent—ladies and fat men being
+allotted four men each to help them up.  The weather being extremely hot
+my sister and I were content to see the rest of the party make the ascent
+while we sat in a shady place at the base.  A group of twenty Arabs of
+the most patriarchal aspect squatted on the ground in front of us in a
+half-circle; immediately our eyes fell upon any one of them he mutely
+extended one hand—not so much to help us as to be helped—instantly
+lowering it without complaint on our looking elsewhere.  This would
+become monotonous.  I would occasionally show by my look that I was
+annoyed, upon which the beggar would get a crack over his head from one
+of his neighbours.
+
+The Great Pyramid of Cheops is 732ft. along the base line and 460ft.
+high, covering an area of 536,000 square feet—about equal in extent to
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields in London.  Its height is about 60ft. higher than
+the cross on St. Paul’s Cathedral.  My wife managed the ascent very well,
+and also went with the rest to explore the interior, and all seemed
+greatly pleased with their exploits.  A fee of two francs to the Sheik
+and a franc a piece to the helpers is the regular charge for each person;
+but even the Sheik is not above taking a little extra by way of
+_backsheesh_.  Our party were quite ready for their lunch, which Abaid
+quickly spread out in the little house provided by the Government for the
+accommodation of visitors.  We were shown into a large room, and while at
+table the doorways were filled with a hungry crowd, quarrelling,
+laughing, and jostling each other.
+
+                       [Picture: View on the Nile]
+
+Some of the bolder spirits at length got into the room, but our guide
+seizing his stick administered two or three heavy blows, and soon cleared
+them out.  It was wonderful to see how tamely big men will allow
+themselves to be driven.  Truly the stick is a great institution in
+Egypt, although perhaps none but the ruling class would acquiesce in the
+inscription found in one of the ancient tombs to the effect that “The
+stick came down from heaven—a blessing from God.”
+
+Before sitting down to eat, a boy brought water that we might wash our
+hands.  The mode was certainly primitive.  We had to hold our hands out
+of the window while he poured water over them.  A noisy crowd of Arabs
+were sitting under another window, and a barber in the midst was
+operating upon the head of one of them, and it was really wonderful how
+cleverly he shaved, making a clean sweep of every lock and every hair.  I
+asked Abaid if the men were under a vow, but he said it was because
+summer was coming on, and it would be cooler without hair.
+
+                          [Picture: The Sphinx]
+
+After a scene of great confusion in paying the various claimants, during
+which the Sheik had to make a vigorous use of his long stick, we started
+to see the Sphinx, which is about 500 yards off.  Before leaving, I
+called the Sheik and gave him two francs, that he might instruct his men
+to keep the mob from us.  This he accepted with great solemnity, and in
+parting shook hands in a most impressive manner.
+
+                      [Picture: A Wash and a Shave]
+
+The Sphinx is cut out of the solid rock, and is about thirty feet from
+the top of the head to the bottom of the chin, and about fourteen feet
+across the face, the body being 140 feet long.  I could see no beauty in
+the face, the features being almost obliterated.
+
+Near the Sphinx is a fine underground temple formed of immense granite
+blocks and polished alabaster.  The pavement is of granite and is
+perfectly smooth.  Some of the finest statues at Bûlak were found in a
+well adjoining this temple.
+
+Leaving our hotel at seven a.m., we started for Gizeh station _en route_
+for Sakkara, the railway taking us as far as Bedrashên.  We had engaged
+eleven donkeys for carrying our party and the food necessary for the
+whole day’s refreshment.  The confusion at Gizeh station in obtaining our
+tickets and getting the donkeys into the train was something tremendous.
+Fortunately, the morning was rather cool.
+
+On arriving at Bedrashên we had some difficulty in finding the right
+donkeys, and I had great misgivings about the prospective five hours’
+ride; but at last we got fairly off, and by degrees my confidence
+returned.  We soon reached Mîtrahîneh, the site of ancient Memphis, now
+only marked by a vast number of heaps and mounds of rubbish, under which
+are doubtless buried many treasures of ancient Egyptian art.  A number of
+articles which have been recently dug out were shown in a rude enclosure;
+one or two of the statues beautifully executed.  Lying in a pool, face
+downwards, is a statue of Ramses II. belonging to the British Museum, but
+the authorities of that institution have not yet taken the trouble to
+remove it.  The statue is 50ft. long, and is of siliceous limestone, very
+hard, and bearing a high polish.  In one hand the figure holds a scroll
+bearing his name, and at his side is his little daughter, reaching to his
+knee.  The face is still quite smooth, the features are sharply cut and
+delicately finished, and the expression perfectly preserved, looking
+really beautiful.  Memphis was said by Herodotus to extend for six miles.
+It was conquered in turns by Persians, Assyrians, and Romans, each of
+whom did their share towards ruining it, and when at last the Mohammedans
+conquered the country, its doom was sealed, and the stones of its palace
+and temples taken away to build the new city of Cairo.  The dykes being
+no longer kept in repair, the overflow of the Nile gradually piled up the
+mud year by year, and this, with the sand from the desert, has, in the
+course of ages, made Memphis little more than a name.  Memphis is called
+in the Bible _Noph_, and in the time of the Patriarchs was the capital of
+Lower Egypt; but the prophecy of Jeremiah, xlvi. 19, has been literally
+fulfilled: “Noph shall be waste and desolate.”
+
+Leaving Memphis we go on to Sakkara, for thousands of years the ancient
+Necropolis or burying-ground.  In the centre stands the great Step
+Pyramid, built in steps of comparatively small pieces of stone.  It is
+said to be not only the oldest pyramid, but also the most ancient
+monument of any kind in the world.  The cemetery is four and a half miles
+long by an average of three-fourths of a mile in width, and being full of
+holes it is necessary to be very careful in crossing it.  The ground is
+strewed with skulls and other human bones, some of the former being of
+great thickness.  Soon we reached the house of Mariette Bey, built for
+his use when he was engaged in his explorations, and here, by his
+permission, parties are at liberty to rest and take their lunch.
+
+The first object of interest is the Serapeum, or Apis Mausoleum.  When
+alive, the sacred bull was worshipped in a splendid temple at Memphis,
+and lodged in an adjoining palace.  When dead he was buried in this
+mausoleum, in a vault excavated out of the solid rock, his body being
+placed in a huge sarcophagus hewn out of a single piece of granite, and
+hollowed into a regular square to receive the body.  A cover, also of
+granite, and weighing many tons, was then placed over it.  The size of
+the sarcophagus is 13ft. long, 7ft. 6in. wide, and 11ft. high.
+
+This mausoleum had for ages been known to exist somewhere, but no one
+knew the locality.  The ancient Strabo wrote, “There is also a serapeum
+in a very sandy spot where drifts of sand are raised by the wind to such
+a degree that we saw some sphinxes buried up to their heads, and others
+half covered.”  Mariette, recollecting this passage, observed in 1860 a
+sphinx’s head appearing through the sand, and it at once occurred to him
+that this must be the site of the avenue of which mention is made by
+another ancient writer, so he commenced a clearing and laid bare 141
+sphinxes.  To do this he had to make a cutting in the sand 70ft. deep;
+but at length he was rewarded by discovering the entrance to the
+mausoleum.
+
+                     [Picture: The Serapeum, Sakkara]
+
+There are several galleries for the different dynasties, but only one is
+now shown, the interments in which date from 650 B.C. down to 50 B.C.
+The galleries extend for 400 yards, and there are now twenty-four
+sarcophagi in their places.  Three of these are beautifully sculptured.
+One of them is of polished granite, and although the engraving is only
+1/16 in. deep, a mere scratch in the polish, it is as clear as when first
+done, over 2,000 years ago, and so perfect is the stone that it rings
+like a bell when struck.
+
+From the Serapeum we proceeded to examine one of the tombs, also
+excavated by Mariette Bey.  It is called the Tomb of Tih.  Over the
+doorways of these ancient tombs it was the custom to inscribe the name
+and titles of the deceased, and also an invocation to the God of Tombs
+(the tomb having been built during life by the person himself), with
+these objects:—
+
+1st.—To accord to deceased propitious funeral-rites, and a good
+burial-place after a long and happy life.
+
+2nd.—To be favourably disposed to deceased in his journey beyond the
+tomb.
+
+3rd.—To secure to him, to all eternity, the proper payment of
+funeral-offerings by his relations.
+
+A list of these offerings is carved upon the walls, which are covered
+with sculptures representing the scenes in which the deceased had been
+engaged during life, ending with a representation of the conveyance of
+the mummy to the tomb.  The tomb itself contains several apartments, in
+which the relatives met upon certain anniversaries to present
+votive-offerings, etc.
+
+We were astonished to see the perfect state of preservation in which the
+tomb remains.  The sculptures on the walls are as sharp and clear and the
+colours apparently as bright as when laid on.  Sand is a good
+preservative when not in motion, and to this must the marvel be ascribed.
+Over the door is the inscription giving Tih’s name, and stating that he
+was a priest; and on the walls of the first chamber are representations
+showing statues of Tih being embarked in boats and oxen being brought for
+sacrifice, one of them being offered up.  There is another showing Tih
+with his wife and family watching his people at work in the farmyard.
+Some of them are bringing sacks of grain for the poultry; others are
+fattening the birds by making and forcing pellets of flour down their
+throats.  Behind this there is a view of the farm-buildings, the roofs
+being supported on carved wooden pillars.
+
+                     [Picture: From the Tomb of Tih]
+
+In the middle there is a pool where ducks are swimming, while cattle are
+seen pasturing in the fields around.  Among the birds Tih kept are cranes
+and pigeons, ducks and geese.  He had also cattle of every size and kind,
+including antelopes, gazelles, and wild goats.  Then come the boats
+filled with jars and bales transporting farm produce down the Nile.  In
+another place men are shown carrying fruits and vegetables, and pigeons
+in cages.  Farther on are seen men drawing statues enclosed in temples of
+wood, half-a-dozen dragging with ropes, while one pours water on the road
+to make it easier.  In another room Till is shown as a sportsman in a
+boat; in one hand he holds a decoy-bird, while with the other he hurls a
+curved stick like an Australian boomerang.  In the water are seen
+crocodiles and hippopotami: a crocodile and hippopotamus are fighting,
+the latter being evidently victorious; some of the servants are trying to
+catch them, and the hippopotamus is just being hooked with a sort of
+harpoon.  (This scene recalls the verse in Job, “Canst thou draw out the
+leviathan with a hook?”)  Here again the fish are being drawn in nets
+into the boats, while the work of the farm goes vigorously on.  Cows are
+seen crossing a ford and browsing in a field, while herdsmen are driving
+a flock of goats.  Oxen are ploughing just as we saw them in the fields
+to-day, and with a very similar plough.  The seed is being sown, corn
+reaped, and men with three-pronged forks are gathering it into heaps
+while the oxen are treading it out.  In another place the corn is being
+tied into sheaves, and donkeys are being brought up with much fuss and
+use of the stick to take it to the granaries.  Some of these scenes are
+drawn with inimitable humour.  Carpenters are engaged in making
+furniture, and shipwrights in building boats, while Tih is always present
+directing each operation.
+
+The Egyptians were said by Diodorus to call their houses hostelries, and
+their tombs their everlasting homes.
+
+We now remounted our donkeys, and for an hour rode over the sandy desert
+through dreadful mud villages, from which all the population turned out
+as we passed, crying with all their might—_’sheesh_, _’sheesh_,
+_backsheesh_, _’sheesh_, _’sheesh_.
+
+Passing several strings of camels—which I described as “camelcades,”
+coining a word for the purpose—we soon regained the delightfully fertile
+country which is watered by the Nile.  For more than two hours we trotted
+and galloped along through a very rich country, where hundreds of acres
+of date-palms were growing—where the young corn was waving, and peas,
+beans, and cucumbers in great luxuriance—no more dust nor sand, but a
+pleasant breeze and bright sun, with nothing to mar the pleasure except
+the sight of the wretched natives.  Most of the children are absolutely
+naked, while their parents’ clothes are of the most limited description.
+
+             [Picture: A Camelcade (sketched by the Author)]
+
+We halted for lunch under some palm-trees by a branch of the Nile, and
+then proceeded to the carriages, which we had ordered to meet us in the
+Gizeh road.  Some of us had to ride back into Cairo on our donkeys, and
+on our way we passed the Khedive, who cordially acknowledged our
+salutation.  All our party agreed in saying that to-day’s excursion was
+one of the most delightful we had ever had.
+
+                     [Picture: Prayers in the Desert]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the Dancing
+and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal _zikr_ or ceremonial
+on that day.  We first visited the convent of the dancing Dervishes and
+witnessed one of their performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it
+was. In the centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is
+railed off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall
+“tile” without brims are sitting opposite the door.  They looked like a
+lot of ancient “Friends” at the head of a meeting.  In the gallery above
+were some musicians, one of whom was playing a flute in a melancholy
+manner, and another reciting a prayer.  At a certain point the Dervishes
+within the circle bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin
+walking round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the
+Chief Priest or Sheik.  On passing the carpet upon which the Sheik has
+been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated two or three times;
+then they go into the middle of the enclosure, spreading out their
+garments like ladies in the old minuet; the music quickens, and they
+begin to whirl around on one foot, occasionally touching the ground with
+the other.  The performers’ eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but
+they keep on in perfect order—never touching one another—while the old
+Priest walks about among them.  Some of the more experienced Dervishes
+can revolve fifty or sixty times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half
+an hour.  It was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no
+_backsheesh_ was demanded, the Priests being supported by endowments and
+occasional gifts from the Khedive.  Mounting our donkeys we rode off to
+the Howling Dervishes, where we found them in full howl.  About twenty of
+them were engaged in making the most hideous noise imaginable.  These
+fellows had their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their
+heads in the wildest manner.  Every time they raise their heads they
+utter the word _HU_ (God alone), which sounds like the yell of a wild
+beast, at times the excitement rising to such a height that some of them
+would foam at the mouth and fall to the ground apparently in a fit.  They
+wound up their proceedings with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt.  These
+Dervishes, like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government
+endowment.
+
+I have no doubt that when first instituted these “pious orgies” were
+entered upon with a due sense of solemnity, and I believe in places
+remote from the regular tourist route the religious feeling still
+predominates, but the Howling and Dancing Dervishes in Cairo have long
+since become one of the regular sights to which foreign visitors are
+always taken.
+
+Upon the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present, more
+than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter being a
+placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her, was calmly
+surveying the “creaturely activity” of the Howling enthusiasts.
+
+We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley’s Schools, at the British
+Mission.  There are over 300 native children here, and we heard many of
+them read in English and French, and also do some exercises in
+translation.  The girls were engaged in embroidering, reading, and
+writing, and they sang two hymns in Arabic while we stayed.  Then we saw
+them muster for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into
+the middle of the hall and repeated the Lord’s Prayer, first in English
+and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most orderly manner.
+Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the result of her many years’
+labours; but I have no doubt she has had her times of discouragement.  My
+wife visited an Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told
+her that after two years’ continuous labour amongst the people of his
+district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was greatly
+discouraged and was inclined to abandon the mission.  Calling the people
+together he told them of his disappointment, and said that although he
+had worked diligently amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to
+be no better than before, and that he felt that he must leave them.  The
+people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways, began to
+be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet again.  One man
+got up in the meeting and said, “Teacher, you must not go, you have made
+us much better.  When you came first there was a woman living near who
+used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but now,” he said,
+“_she only steals the eggs_.”  The superintendent’s features somewhat
+relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs immediately
+perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a woman rising and
+saying, “Teacher, when you came first my neighbour’s son used to thrash
+his mother every day, but since he has been at your school he only
+thrashes her once a month.”  The superintendent remained, and is well
+satisfied with the progress which has since been made.
+
+In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue, which is the
+Rotten Row of Cairo.  The custom is to drive quickly up one side,
+returning slowly on the other, the drive occupying an hour.  The Khedive
+drove past us in his carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows
+(_sais_) whose duty it is to run in front of the carriage.  They were
+dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a silk
+sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long tassel, legs and
+feet bare, and in the hand a handsome staff.  These men run quite as fast
+as the horses, keep up the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed
+to clear the crowded streets for the carriages.  This they do by shouting
+loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual.  The avenue was
+crowded with carriages, some of them containing ladies of the harem.
+Their carriages have windows all round.
+
+                       [Picture: A Runner, or Sais]
+
+Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave only the eyes
+uncovered, while some (the prettiest, presumably) wear only thin gauze
+veils, through which their faces are plainly to be seen.  All wear the
+same languishing expression, and appear to be very fond of peeping at the
+Europeans, and as we passed and repassed them they would recognise us
+with a smile, and then, to save appearances, turn away.  When we passed
+the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the Khedive’s
+carriage, and drew up in saluting order.
+
+                       [Picture: In Shubra Avenue]
+
+They were greatly disgusted on discovering their mistake.  At four
+o’clock a general stampede of carriages, horsemen, runners, and
+pedestrians takes place, and the road is soon quite deserted.
+
+One of the features of Cairene life is the universal use of donkeys by
+all classes of the people; ancient women shrouded from head to foot in
+black gauze, old men with long grey beards, and noses not much
+shorter—their heads wrapped in turbans, and robes covering the donkeys’
+backs—jogging along, rubbing against the British tourist, the latter
+looking anything but grave and serious on his Jerusalem pony.  Our party
+certainly did not look more _bizarre_ than others; but we should not feel
+inclined to enter Birmingham in the same state as we often entered and
+left Cairo.
+
+                        [Picture: Water Carriers]
+
+One morning we got up early for a donkey-ride across the Nile to see,
+amongst other things, the garden and farm produce arrive from the country
+round.  Crossing the Nile we turned down a fine avenue of sycamores, two
+or three miles long.  The Khedive’s gardens lie on one side and the river
+at the other.  Moored to the river bank was an Englishman’s _dahabieh_ or
+Nile boat.  A party had just returned from the cataracts, and on the
+upper deck we observed a dead crocodile.  Riding by one palace towards
+another, we passed a crowd of people on their way to market, with
+bullocks, goats, camels laden with clover, women with the round cakes so
+common here, and a great variety of other things.  Presently we sighted
+the Pyramids, one side lit up with the morning sun, while another was in
+deep shadow.  The Sphinx was also plainly to be seen.
+
+Leaving the Gizeh Road leading to the Pyramids we turned towards Cairo,
+our donkeys instantly knowing that we were homeward-bound, and needing no
+persuasion to gallop back to breakfast.  On nearing the bridge we came
+upon hosts of camels, donkeys, and oxen laden with produce, and being
+assessed for the octroi or town-tax.  The police were armed with long
+spikes, which they pushed into the load to ascertain if anything else was
+packed inside.  It was an interesting scene—the busy crowd, the
+magnificent river, and the brilliant morning sunshine making up a picture
+not easily forgotten.
+
+One of the most interesting drives in the neighbourhood of Cairo is to
+Heliopolis—part of the way lying through a fine avenue of acacias—and
+passing the old camping ground used as a _rendezvous_ by the Mecca
+pilgrims.  It is the old caravan road, and stretches far away into the
+desert, from which came to us a delightfully fresh breeze.  We also
+passed the Abbaseyeh Palace, built by Abbas Pasha, who, fearing
+assassination, lived here in seclusion, keeping sentinels on the towers
+to give warning of the approach of a mob, and dromedaries and fleet
+horses always ready saddled for escape into the desert.  He was, however,
+murdered at last in spite of all his precautions.
+
+                   [Picture: The Tombs of the Khalifs]
+
+Along the road are some beautiful plantations of palms, oranges, and
+lemons, castor-oil and other plants growing in the greatest luxuriance.
+Heaps of oranges were lying on the ground.  After driving through a fine
+olive plantation we came out upon an extensive plain, where, in 1517,
+Sultan Selim defeated the last of the Mameluke Dynasty, and made Egypt a
+Turkish province.  Here too, in 1800, the French defeated the Turks and
+regained possession of Cairo.  Our guide called a halt in order to show
+us a fine old sycamore, called the virgin’s tree, under which Joseph and
+Mary are said to have rested during their flight into Egypt.  I asked
+Abaid if he believed the story.  Placing his hand upon his heart and
+bowing his head, he replied, with something of the sententiousness of a
+Dr. Johnson, “Sir, I am a Christian!”  I felt inclined to tell him that I
+also was a Christian, but that I did not believe it; but then why should
+I disturb his honest belief?  Soon the obelisk of Heliopolis came in
+view, and we knew we were near it by the crowd of youngsters swarming
+round the carriage.  But I adopted my old plan of being the first to ask
+for _backsheesh_, causing them to laugh so heartily that they could
+hardly take up the cry.
+
+The obelisk is about 6ft. square at the base and about 68ft. high; it is
+the oldest in Egypt, and was erected by the founder of the twelfth
+dynasty.  The inscriptions on its four sides give its history and the
+account of its erection about 3,000 B.C.
+
+                       [Picture: A Street in Bûlak]
+
+Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in Exodus is called
+ON.  It was here that Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah,
+and where Moses became learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians.  Here
+Plato and Herodotus studied, and Josephus says—“The city was given to the
+Children of Israel as their residence when they came down into Egypt.”
+The obelisk, as we see it, was old when Abraham came into the country;
+but, notwithstanding its venerable age and intensely interesting
+associations, it has not been too sacred for tourists who have been
+caught chipping pieces off the edges.
+
+After lunch we drove to Bûlak, an interesting suburb of Cairo.  The
+houses are very old, and the street-scenes very curious and thoroughly
+Eastern in character.  The large overhanging windows and casements
+familiar in pictures are everywhere to be seen, and now and then a
+glimpse of a female face is caught peeping furtively out at the
+passers-by.  The streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and
+shouts at the foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip
+to quicken their movements.  All this is taken patiently—far too much
+so—and betrays the saddest side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes
+for the way in which the people have been treated.
+
+Hard by was a curious sight.  Standing against a wall, and raised above
+the level of the street like another Simon Stylites, was a
+strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted of a sack, through a
+hole in which one arm was thrust.  In his hand he held a small instrument
+like a garden-rake, with which he tortured his back, while his gaze
+“seemed upon the future bent.”  Some irreverent tourists looking on were
+presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon which the
+holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and then resumed his
+gaze into futurity.
+
+                         [Picture: A Holy Fakir]
+
+It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap theatres,
+peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in England.  In
+another place was a story-teller, surrounded by an appreciative audience,
+who treated every “point” with loud laughter.  It was curious to see how
+earnest and interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which
+the story was told.
+
+The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by Mariette Bey, is
+situated in Bûlak.  Our time being short, we proposed paying it another
+visit, which, however, we were unfortunately unable to do.  Much of the
+sculpture is really marvellous in its life-like character.  One of the
+most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years old.
+It is admirably carved.  There is also a large collection of jewellery,
+beads, enamels, etc.; chess and draughtboards, an artist’s paint-box and
+brushes, bread, eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe
+of gilt bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve
+silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities.  The museum is one of the
+most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay many visits.
+
+In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and returned to
+Bûlak to see some of the shows, but the first they visited was of so
+extraordinary a character they decided to see no more until their taste
+was educated up or down to the present Egyptian standard.
+
+The railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6½ hours.
+The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country being very flat all
+the way.
+
+The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very interesting to watch
+the various agricultural operations as we rode along.  We particularly
+noticed the many modes in which water is supplied to the land.  Alongside
+the railway runs a stream issuing from the Nile, and the different
+holdings of land are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.
+
+                 [Picture: A Wrecked Ship of the Desert]
+
+At the junction of these streamlets with the main stream may frequently
+be seen a couple of men standing on either bank lifting water from the
+river to the streamlets by means of a huge flat bowl, holding probably
+eight to ten gallons.  This vessel is lifted on either side by means of
+two long handles diverging from each other, and it is surprising how
+large a quantity of water can be thrown up by means of it in an hour.
+The bowl is always in motion with a fine swing, and it is evident the men
+are working on their own account.
+
+Every station at which we stopped is crowded with people selling oranges,
+water, etc., and very clever they are at their business too, very
+persuasive, and as quick as thought to see if you are inclined to buy.
+The children are the merriest, liveliest things imaginable, with bright
+eyes and shining white teeth.  Here also may be seen numbers of beggars,
+young and old, calling out eternal _backsheesh_.  We saw some venerable
+old fellows, bent nearly double with age, and with hair and whiskers
+quite white, who entreated us piteously to help them, saying “Got no
+mother, got no father, _backsheesh_!”  Such orphans as these never
+obtained our sympathy, although they afforded us great amusement.
+
+While in Cairo, news came of the dissolution of Parliament by Lord
+Beaconsfield, and we hastened to Alexandria to take the steamer for Italy
+on the following day; but on arriving we found the weather so excessively
+rough that the steamers were detained: and, as there seemed no prospect
+of getting off, we determined to proceed to Port Saïd, by way of
+Ismailïa, in order to take the steamer sailing thence for Naples, hoping
+on some future occasion to be able to see what is to be seen in
+Alexandria.  A day’s railway-ride brought us to Ismailïa, from which
+place we took the evening mail-boat to Port Saïd.  The night was very
+cold, and after a seven hours’ trip on the Canal it was very pleasant to
+find ourselves in the magnificent hotel built by Prince Henry of the
+Netherlands, attached to the Dutch factory at Port Saïd.
+
+One of the Orient Steamers was due to sail on the following day, and we
+expected to proceed to Naples in her, but after providing us with tickets
+the agent sent us word that she had been detained a week and that we must
+choose another vessel.  There was no other way of escape than by taking
+the P. and O. Steamer “Mongolia” to Malta, trusting to being able to find
+a ready means of crossing to Naples from that place.  Unfortunately a
+heavy storm in the Mediterranean had the effect of delaying our arrival
+in Malta some hours, and we had the mortification of seeing the Naples
+steamer leaving the harbour as we were entering it.  We arrived on Monday
+and found there would not be another steamer until Thursday, and as the
+Birmingham election was to take place on Wednesday in the following week
+our chance of getting there seemed very doubtful.  Leaving Malta,
+however, on the Thursday, by dint of almost continual travelling night
+and day, we arrived safely in Birmingham at half-past ten on the
+Wednesday morning, and proceeded at once to register our votes for Bright
+and Chamberlain, two of the three successful Liberal candidates.
+
+                           [Picture: Au Revoir]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII. {226}
+
+
+                       [Picture: In the Suez Canal]
+
+After a stormy passage through the Mediterranean we turned in towards
+Port Saïd, and soon after sighting the handsome lighthouse took the
+French pilot on board, anchoring broadside on to the main street of the
+town and within fifty yards of the shore.  A motley throng, in boats
+quite as motley soon filled up the space between the ship and the shore,
+and a wild jabber composed of a mixture of English, French, Italian, and
+Arabic filled the air.  Presently the usual tribe of pedlars came on
+deck, and having spread out their wares invited the passengers to buy,
+somewhat after the fashion of London tradesmen in Cheapside hundreds of
+years ago with their cry of “What lack ye?”  The inevitable Maltese with
+his lace, the Greek money-changer walking about with his hands full of
+silver offering to change, and astonishing the honest Britisher on his
+first voyage by his liberality in proffering twenty shillings for a
+sovereign—the rate of exchange, however, leaving him a very good profit.
+Near him is a Hebrew, whom I remember having seen at Aden, the black
+curls over his brow reminding one forcibly of Benjamin Disraeli.  This
+man keeps to his trade of dealer in ostrich feathers.
+
+                      [Picture: A Feather Merchant]
+
+Here also are gentlemen of the long robe—not lawyers, but Arabs, in ample
+white night-shirts and turbans—offering to young ladies in the most
+seductive tones, at two shillings each, coral necklaces, which can be
+purchased in Birmingham at three shillings the dozen, while dealers in
+photographs, melons, and oranges walk about always ready to take
+one-fourth of what they ask for their wares.  Parallel with us are the
+quays, on which are crowds of people of all nationalities.  The Custom
+House in front is occupied by a company of English artillerymen, the
+entrance being guarded by a British sentry, while overhead the Egyptian
+flag is flying.  Away to the left is the old Dutch hotel, recently bought
+by the British Government, and now occupied by two hundred men of the
+Royal Marine Light Infantry.
+
+Immediately in front of the ship is the main street of the town.  It is
+perfectly straight and about half a mile long, with a small public garden
+near the end.  In this street are a large number of _casinos_, where
+music is dealt out at nights by bands of female performers, who are
+called “Bohemiennes,” and where, we are assured, everything is properly
+respectable—until eleven o’clock!  Many of our lady passengers, in the
+innocence of their hearts, looking forward to a pleasant concert during
+the evening, are much shocked when they learn that the said concerts are
+held in _casinos_.
+
+We landed at ten o’clock, and had a leisurely walk through the town and
+halfway through the Arab quarter, but the smells were so offensive that
+we turned back.  A lot of young Arabs, however, urged us to go on
+farther, for there was an Arab hanging, but as we did not think a dead
+Arab would be likely to be a more agreeable sight than a living one we
+declined.  The culprit had been executed that morning for the murder of
+his grand-daughter, nine months previously.  An account of his crime was
+written in Arabic and attached to his breast, and the large scissors with
+which he committed the murder were suspended around his neck.  Some of
+the young Arabs were vexed with us because we would not give them
+_backsheesh_, and began to be insulting, talking about Arabi, when
+presently a smart youth of ten years old interfered, and, cuffing the
+ears of the young monkeys, loudly proclaimed the prowess of the British.
+
+We went to look at the Dutch House where the Marines were quartered, and
+a young officer, Lieutenant Cotter, kindly asked us to go over the
+building.  The rooms are very fine; but what a change in the scene since
+we slept here for a night two-and-half years ago!  Then the hotel was in
+operation, and the rooms were furnished as elaborately as in the house of
+an English gentleman.  But everything had been taken away, and the
+officers were sleeping on the marble floors, and the men on the floors of
+the adjoining warehouses, where also the horses were stabled.  Lieutenant
+Cotter had made a bedstead for himself, and one of his men had made him a
+bath, and these, with a chair, completed the furnishing of his room; his
+wash-basin consisted of a large flower-pot, with a cork in the hole at
+the bottom.  The Marines arrived in Egypt a few days after Tel-el-Kebir,
+and so saw no fighting; but they had to march over to Fort Gemileh, seven
+miles away, and fully expected a very severe fight, as the fort is
+heavily armed with modern guns, and was manned by Nubians, who are
+reported to be excellent soldiers.  Fortunately, however, there was no
+need to fight, as the commander recognised that the war was over.
+
+At night a number of our passengers, of all classes, went ashore to
+attend the concert, and one of them known as Cetewayo, _alias_ the Carrib
+or the Pirate King, announced his intention of kicking up a great row at
+the _casino_ (of course _after_ eleven o’clock), and he was as good as
+his word, and others besides, several having to be locked up for the
+night.  We visited the soldiers in the barracks, and they were very glad
+to have a chat.  We sent them the newspapers we had brought from England;
+with which they were greatly pleased.  They told us the numbers, variety,
+and voracity of the insects was something maddening; some being busy at
+night, and others during the day, and that it was almost impossible to
+keep oneself decent.  Altogether Port Saïd must be a dreadful place for
+Englishmen to live in; there was very little society, and I was told that
+at the time there was only one unmarried lady left.
+
+The commanding officer of the Marines told us that the principal duty
+they had to perform as “police” was to keep the English sailors and
+visitors in order, almost all the drunkenness and trouble coming from
+them—to our disgrace be it said.
+
+The land all along the coast lies very low, and is not seen until the
+yellowish-green water near it is reached.  The water is discoloured by
+the mud of the Nile, one of the mouths of which (the Tanitic) is situated
+a little to the west of Port Saïd.  This ceaseless flow of mud was one of
+the greatest difficulties experienced in making the Canal, and
+necessitated important and expensive works to prevent its access to the
+harbour.  Lake Menzaleh is formed by this Nile mouth, and covers an area
+of about 1,000 square miles.  Good wildfowl shooting is to be had there,
+and there are numbers of flamingos and other birds.  Port Saïd, as is
+well known, owes its origin to the Canal, and is situated on an island
+separating Lake Menzaleh from the Mediterranean.  The town was expected
+by M. de Lesseps to progress very rapidly—indeed to rival Alexandria, but
+it has not gone ahead so fast as he expected.  At present there are about
+12,000 people there, and I should say more than half are Europeans.  The
+town is built very regularly, and consists of rather temporary brick and
+wooden houses.  The making of the harbour was a very difficult work.  It
+occupies 570 acres, and is excavated to a depth of 26ft.  Two massive
+piers protect it, running out to the sea in a north-easterly direction
+for about a mile and a half.  At starting they are 1,440 yards apart,
+narrowing to 770 yards, the navigable entrance being about 150 yards
+wide.  The piers are constructed of artificial stone, composed of seven
+parts of sand from the desert, and of one part of hydraulic lime from
+France.  The concrete was mixed by machinery, and then poured into great
+wooden moulds, where it remained for weeks, after which the wood was
+taken away to allow of the blocks hardening.  Each block weighed twenty
+tons, and contained 13½ cubic yards; no fewer than 25,000 of these blocks
+were used in constructing the breakwater.  The lighthouse is a very
+handsome structure, and is also formed of blocks of concrete; it is
+164ft. high, and can be seen twenty-four miles away, being fitted with
+the electric light.  (_Baedeker_).
+
+At 4.30 p.m. our vessel started for the Canal, and having safely entered
+it made fast for the night, as no travelling is allowed after sunset.
+During the evening myriads of gnats and mosquitoes came on to the ship,
+the electric light being absolutely dimmed by them in many places, and we
+had good reason to expect a trying night from their presence.
+
+While our ship’s doctor and a party of friends were ashore at Port Saïd
+they were greatly amused by the attention of a number of Arab lads who
+followed them everywhere.  During their walk in the native quarter the
+party came upon a great crowd, and one of the young Arabs referring to
+the man who had been hanged during the morning stated that the man was
+not an Arab, but a Greek, and proceeded to explain the distinguishing
+characteristics of the various nationalities represented at this
+cosmopolitan port; he said—
+
+“The Greek, he bery bat man, he stab—so (with a vigorous motion as though
+stabbing an opponent in the chest).
+
+“’gyptian, he bery goot man, he only slap, so.
+
+“English man, he bery goot man (striking an attitude); he say ‘Come on
+and box.’
+
+“English man—he bery goot man.
+
+“English man—he bery goot man.
+
+“Melikan man—he bery goot man.
+
+“Melikan man—he bery goot man.
+
+“’talian man—he bery bat man.”
+
+Ending with a very uncomplimentary allusion to our Irish fellow-subjects.
+
+What is wanted to make Port Saïd really prosperous is a railway from the
+interior to bring the produce from the cotton and wheat fields, and then
+the steamers which bring the coals could at once load up for home, saving
+the necessity of going empty to Alexandria for their homeward freights.
+Last year 540,000 tons of coal were sold at Port Saïd, and all the ships
+which brought it had to go away empty.  But so long as the Canal Company
+are entitled to all the Customs dues at Port Saïd, it is not to be
+expected that the Egyptian Government will favour the construction of
+such a line.
+
+Some of our fellow-passengers were members of the Blue Ribbon Army, and
+although they were by no means obtrusive in supporting their views, being
+contented for the most part with wearing the “bit of blue”—others
+resented this reasonable liberty, styling it an impertinence, and formed
+themselves into an opposition Order, which they called the _Red_ Ribbon
+Army, and they busied themselves in enlisting recruits.  It was
+noticeable that, with the exception of an old _roué_ or two, only young
+men with small heads and long legs, who, if they ever indulged in
+reading, confined their choice to books translated or adapted from the
+French, composed the rank and file, the officers being older men, who
+were not often seen out of the gambling or smoke-room.  One of these
+latter was called the “Spider,” because from an early hour in the morning
+he sat in the smoke-room waiting to “play” with any who might choose to
+try conclusions with him.
+
+The Patron and President of the Society was a noble lord, and certainly a
+better choice could not have been made.  Amongst the rules of the Society
+were these:—
+
+    Any member found without his red ribbon is to be fined in drinks all
+    round.
+
+    Members are to be neither too drunk nor too sober.
+
+    Members must never go to bed quite sober.
+
+    Members must never refuse a drink.
+
+The President certainly set a fair example in his endeavour to perform
+the duties of his office, and would never be mistaken for a member of the
+Blue Ribbon Army, even if he did not wear the badge, for good wine had
+marked him for its own.  Under the fostering influence of such rules and
+such a “noble” example, it is not to be wondered at that the Army showed
+a blatant front to the enemy, and that their proceedings soon became
+disorderly.  At this juncture some good-natured moderate men joined the
+Reds, with the view, it appears, of moderating their offensive tactics,
+and the result was a manifesto which set forth, amongst other things—That
+the Red Ribbon Army entertained no feelings of ill-will toward those who
+did not agree with them, and invited all to join their ranks, and that
+they assured abstainers that there was always iced water on the sideboard
+of the smoke room for their convenience.  One of the chiefs of the Reds
+was a dark man, already referred to as Cetewayo, _alias_ the Carrib.  I
+one day heard this worthy call one of the Reds to account for appearing
+without his badge, the defaulting member replying that he had “resigned.”
+“That won’t do,” said the Carrib, “Once a member always a member; come
+and pay up.”  Yes, I thought, when the devil has once got his claws in a
+man retreat is all but impossible.
+
+Every one of the young fellows who joined the Reds fell into the
+“Spider’s” web, and were most of them eased of their spare cash through
+the agency of a pack of cards.
+
+This “Spider” was one day on deck sitting by the side of one of my
+friends who had just awaked from a doze, to whom he said, “You have had a
+nap?”  “Yes,” I said, “Mr. — takes his nap on deck in the face of day,
+but you have yours in the dimness of the smoke-room” (alluding to the
+game of “Nap”).  “That’s true,” said he, “I like to play when the light
+is somewhat dull.  These fellows say I am always winning.  Well, suppose
+I am?  They keep coming to me, and in Melbourne if they consult an expert
+on any subject they have to pay two guineas, and I take no less.”  “You
+take no less, and don’t refuse more,” said I.  “Exactly, that is just
+it,” said the Spider, and he was said to have cleared out most of the
+card-playing fraternity.  Ultimately, the almost unvaried success of the
+Spider caused a general feeling to be raised against him amongst the
+gamblers; but as long as there still remained some who had not been
+relieved of their money, and others whom the Spider had allowed to win
+from him occasionally, this feeling did not exist to any great extent.
+One evening, however, the Pirate charged the web-spinner with having
+cheated him, and a general disturbance ensued, the Pirate assuring the
+Spider that as soon as they quitted the ship he would soundly thrash him
+with a whip, which he displayed, so we were in hopes of having a little
+excitement on leaving the vessel.  One result, however, was to
+practically dissolve the Red Ribbon army, and the Carrib then came out in
+a new character.  At the fancy dress ball held on the promenade deck he
+appeared in a dress suit, and was at once saluted with the cry, “Here’s a
+lark, Cetewayo disguised as a _gentleman_!”
+
+The noble President of the Reds was somewhat of a curiosity in his way, a
+very kind-hearted sympathetic man, as many a poor invalid in the second
+and third classes could testify.  The doctor told us of many instances of
+his lordship’s kindness in visiting some of the sick third-class
+passengers, and giving them dainties from his private stores; and I heard
+one poor woman tell him she should never forget him for his goodness to
+her husband.  Some of our colonial passengers, wishing to make the most
+of their unusual proximity to nobility, were too persevering in their
+attentions to his lordship, and evidently bored him; but the tact with
+which he “shunted” them, and the studied politeness of his language, did
+not prevent onlookers detecting a silent “confound their impudence”
+terminating each reply.
+
+               [Picture: Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman]
+
+Once, in referring to the pertinacity of these people, he remarked to a
+bystander, in a hissing tone, “One _must_ be civ-il.”  The noble lord
+took a great interest in everything pertaining to sailors; his regard for
+them was evidently warm and genuine.  While we were passing through the
+Canal, coming to our anchorage for the night, we found the space at our
+disposal was very limited, as the vessels were numerous, consequently our
+men had to be very active in getting the ship into her berth.  I was
+standing by his lordship’s side, looking at the sailors running along the
+sandbank, carrying the heavy cable as nimbly as though it was a fishing
+line.  Lord — was delighted, and, turning to me, and in his funny fashion
+grasping his clothes in front of the place where his stomach should be,
+exclaimed in tones of rapture, “Look at our _de-ah_ blue-jackets, look!”
+
+His lordship was very popular with the young men on board, but I hope he
+did not often make such observations to them, as one young gentleman
+informed me he had made to him, speaking of his past life.  “I have
+committed many sins in my time,” said his lordship, “and I hope to live
+to commit many more.”
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my companion and a
+friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who invited them to dine with
+him.  It soon became evident that intercourse would have to be conducted
+through interpreters, as Arabi understood neither French nor English, and
+his visitors were ignorant of Arabic.
+
+My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table caused him
+great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had given him strict
+orders to avoid.  What was to be done?  My companion explained to the
+invalid that in the East no greater affront could be given to a host than
+to decline to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided
+himself with Jack the Giant Killer’s device for disposing of surplus
+food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain fearful forebodings.
+
+Arabi’s personal appearance had greatly altered, he having grown a beard
+which was turning grey.  At the table with him were his two sons, lads
+apparently of ten and twelve years respectively.  On his left sat Fehmi
+Pasha, a man of very striking appearance with a face indicating
+considerable intellectual power.  Arabi desired to know what the English
+thought of him, a question which my companion parried by saying the
+English always respected a brave man.  Rising to take leave of the host,
+my companion patted the head of the eldest boy in a kindly manner.  This
+seemed to move Arabi in a singular way.  He rose and said, in a sharp
+tone of command, to his boys, “Salaam,” then, crossing the room and
+placing his hand on my companion’s shoulder, said with some emotion, “Ah,
+ah, good, good.”
+
+Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place, without a
+single redeeming feature, in European eyes.  Those of our countrymen who
+are compelled to reside here in the service of the country are entitled
+to the deepest sympathy of every Englishman.  The possession of Aden is
+of considerable importance to England and to India, both as a coaling
+station and as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of
+less importance than formerly.  The islands commanding the channels at
+the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to the position, one of
+the most important being the Island of Perim, the acquisition of which
+does more credit to the _’cuteness_ of the British commander at Aden than
+to his sense of honour—that is, if the story told of him be true.  It is
+related that one evening, nearly forty years ago, two French war-ships
+cast anchor before Aden, and the English governor with a laudable desire
+to ascertain the object of their visit invited the commanders of the
+ships to dinner.  Unfortunately for France the officers were not
+teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British commander’s wine
+strong, the gallant Frenchmen’s tongues were loosened, and the perfidious
+Englishman ascertained that the mission with which his guests were
+charged was no less than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the
+name of Louis Philippe, King of the French!
+
+                         [Picture: Adenese Women]
+
+Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the captain of the
+English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all speed and in the
+strictest secrecy to take possession of the island in the name of the
+Queen!  The sun had risen before the festivities at the governor’s
+residence had ceased, and then with many bows his guests departed to
+their ships, and shortly afterwards left Aden for their destination.  On
+arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined when they
+saw on the highest point on the island the British flag flying, and the
+gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the previous day anchored close
+inshore.  The incident gave occasion for much tall talk at the time on
+the part of the fiery French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear,
+gave fresh life to the cry of “Perfidious Albion.”
+
+We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon as our
+steamer stopped, our old dragoman Hassan came on board with a huge packet
+of letters for us, and although he had only seen us once before, three
+years ago, he not only remembered our names but came straight to us and
+told us he had brought a boat for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged
+for us at the hotel.  We owed all this attention—which was most
+seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a malarious
+fever contracted in Australia—to Messrs. Cook and Son, who had been
+advised of my coming, and here I will say that in Egypt and Syria the
+name of “Cook” is the talisman which solves all difficulties and robs
+travelling of nearly all its inconveniences.
+
+On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour of the
+people since our previous visit.  On that occasion landing was effected
+under the greatest difficulties.  The people seemed to look upon us as
+fair prey.  It was almost impossible for us to keep our luggage together,
+and the insolent threatening manner in which _backsheesh_ was demanded
+was not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern country
+for the first time.  But now all was changed; instead of idle excited
+crowds loitering everywhere, everyone seemed to be engaged in some work,
+_backsheesh_ was rarely asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one
+refusal was enough.  Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when
+their proffered services were declined they went away with a “thank you.”
+
+The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us that during
+the war he left it in charge of natives, and found everything safe and in
+order on his return.
+
+On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo, _viâ_ Ismailia and
+Tel-el-Kebir.  At many of the stations British soldiers were on guard, a
+part of their duty appearing to be the inspection of the natives’
+baggage; this was done amidst much good humour on both sides—indeed, all
+through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best possible terms
+with the people, as indeed there is every reason why he should be, for it
+is certain he has been the means of saving the people of Egypt from a
+tyranny of the worst kind—the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and
+military.  With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our party of four
+had arranged to have the whole of the compartment of the railway-carriage
+to ourselves.  It is true we paid extra for the convenience, but at one
+of the stations, the train being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured
+to enter, being prevented, however, by the Arab conductor.  The
+Frenchmen, with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to
+the Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas it
+was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there were eight
+persons in the compartment, although it was patent to all that there were
+only four.  “Four!” said the Frenchmen.  “Eight!” returned the guard,
+giving us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort
+_backsheesh_.  Ultimately our would-be companions were safely bestowed
+elsewhere.
+
+The railway passes by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the entrenchments
+stretching as far as the eye can reach.  When my companion went over the
+ground a few weeks after the battle it was covered with debris of every
+kind, clothing, arms, ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a
+battle-field.
+
+In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from the New
+Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from the Koran, and
+hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic, addressed to a soldier
+on the field, requesting him to authorise the writer to collect his rents
+in Cairo.
+
+On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of tourists who
+had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from the battle-field, but
+since my friend’s visit in the autumn everything had been cleared off,
+and the new comers were gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous
+engagement.
+
+The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried is situated
+near to the station, and appeared to be kept in excellent order.
+
+In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement, latent
+insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our last visit, was
+very noticeable.  There, too, _backsheesh_ was rarely demanded, and most
+of the people seemed to have something to do.
+
+It was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town in all
+directions.  They seemed to be quite at home.  One of them informed me he
+had gone through the Transvaal campaign, but very much preferred the land
+of Goshen!
+
+While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the city was
+ever free from cholera or some other deadly epidemic.  The sanitary
+condition of the streets and public places was shocking in the extreme.
+
+Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government offices are
+the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with iron railings.
+Around the outside is a very handsome paved footpath, which, although in
+the very heart of the city, is in many places utterly impassable because
+of the unspeakable horrors accumulated upon it.  If the English
+occupation of Egypt does nothing more than cause the towns of that
+country to be properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many
+lives every few years as were lost in the late campaign.
+
+There are two classes of people who undoubtedly view the British
+occupation of Egypt with great and well-founded dislike—the military
+party and the pachas.  These classes have always played into each other’s
+hands, and always at the expense of the down-trodden and patient
+fellaheen—the backbone and mainstay of the country.  For the latter class
+the presence of the British army is an almost unmixed blessing.
+
+From time immemorial the desirability of connecting the Mediterranean and
+Red Seas by a canal has been fully recognised; but the work does not
+appear to have been attempted before the reign of Pharaoh Necho, who
+undertook to construct a canal between the Nile and the Red Sea.  In
+carrying out this work 120,000 Egyptians perished, and before it was
+completed the King abandoned it, having been informed by the Oracle that
+the foreigners alone would profit by the work.  Eventually the canal was
+completed under the rule of Darius the Persian, and of the Ptolemies.
+
+The canal was carried through the lakes Balah and Menzaleh, another
+branch being constructed to the Bitter Lakes, into which the fresh water
+canal—watering the land of Goshen—emptied itself; but owing to the
+constant state of war it fell into decay, and was abandoned.
+
+Many suggestions as to the reopening of the waterway have been made in
+almost every generation since.  Bonaparte, during his expedition to Egypt
+in 1798, even caused the preliminary works to be undertaken.  His chief
+engineer surveyed the ground, but, owing to a serious miscalculation,
+threw great doubt on the possibility of carrying out the work.  He
+estimated the level of the Red Sea to be nearly 33ft. higher than that of
+the Mediterranean, an idea that Leibnitz ridiculed nearly a century
+before.  Vigorous protests against Lepère’s theory were not wanting, but
+it was, nevertheless, sufficient to cause the abandonment of the scheme
+until Monsieur Lesseps directed his attention to the matter.  On his
+appointment as an Attaché to the French Mission, Lesseps had to undergo a
+lengthy quarantine at Alexandria; here he was supplied with books by his
+Consul, among them being Lepère’s memoirs respecting the scheme for
+connecting the two seas, the effect of which upon the young Frenchman’s
+mind was never effaced.
+
+In 1847 a Commission of Engineers demonstrated the inaccuracy of Lepère’s
+observations, and proved that the level of the two seas was practically
+the same.  In 1854 Lesseps having matured his plan laid it before the
+Viceroy, who determined to carry it out.  Palmerston, then premier, did
+his utmost, from political motives, to thwart the enterprise; but early
+in 1856 permission was given to commence the work.
+
+Considerable difficulty was experienced in raising the capital, but on
+the 25th April, 1858, operations were actually begun.  The Viceroy
+undertook to pay many of the current expenses, and provided 25,000
+workmen, who were to be paid and fed by the Company at an inexpensive
+rate, and were to be relieved every three months.  In order to provide
+these men with water 4,000 casks suitable for being carried on camels had
+to be made, and 1,600 of these animals were daily employed in bringing
+supplies, at a cost of £320 per day.
+
+At the end of December, 1863, the Fresh Water Canal was completed, by
+which the Company was relieved of the enormous expense of supplying the
+workmen with water.
+
+On the 18th March, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was allowed to
+flow into the nearly dry salt-incrusted basins of the Bitter Lakes, some
+parts of which lay forty feet below the level of the Mediterranean, while
+others required extensive dredging operations.  The Bitter Lakes have
+been identified with the Marah of the Bible (Exodus xv., 23—“And when
+they came to Marah, they could not drink of the waters of Marah for they
+were bitter”).  The captain of our vessel informed me that in these lakes
+the saltness, and consequently the density, of the water is such as to
+cause the vessel to rise five inches above the ordinary waterline.
+
+The cost of constructing the Canal amounted to about £19,000,000, more
+than a third of which was contributed by the Khedive.  The original
+capital of the company in 400,000 shares amounted to £8,000,000, the
+difference being raised by loans payable at fixed intervals, and adding
+an annual burden to the scheme of £451,000.  The festivities connected
+with the opening of the Canal in 1869 cost the Khedive—that is to say the
+taxpayer of Egypt—£14,200,000, or more than half the total capital!
+
+The great mercantile importance of the Canal is apparent from the
+following data:—Between London and Bombay forty-four per cent. of the
+distance is saved by through-going ships; between London and Hong Kong
+twenty-eight per cent., and between Marseilles and Bombay fifty-nine per
+cent.  Over eighty per cent. of the trade passing through the Canal is
+done in British vessels, and in 1875—or six years after the Canal was
+opened—the English traffic was equal to twelve times that of the French.
+
+In 1870, 486 steamers, representing 493,911 tons, passed through the
+canal, and in 1882 these figures had risen to 3,198 steamers with
+7,125,000 tons.  (_Baedeker_).
+
+From Port Saïd the Canal runs in a nearly straight line to Kantara (a
+mere group of sheds), its course lying across the shallow lagoon-like
+Lake Menzaleh, which has an average depth of only three feet.  The
+embankments are low, irregular sand-banks, formed of the dredged
+material, and having at the margin of the water a coarse growth of
+straggling sedgy-looking vegetation.  After passing Kantara, the Balah
+Lakes are reached, and the course is marked out in their open surface by
+a double line of buoys.  Then the most difficult portion of the original
+work is reached—viz., the cutting of El Guisr, which is six miles long,
+the depth from ground-level to surface of water being about forty-five
+feet.  This is by far the highest land in the Isthmus.  Leaving the El
+Guisr cutting, the open waters of Lake Timsah, (_Crocodile Lake_) are
+reached, and far away across its blue mirror-like surface stretches the
+double line of buoys, marking out the track.  On the northern shore of
+the lake, buried in a delightful mass of vegetation, lies the French town
+of Ismailïa, once the great centre from which operations during the
+construction of the Canal were conducted, and now one of the principal
+stations whence its navigation is controlled by means of telegraph.  Lake
+Timsah has an area of some six or seven square miles, and the huge fleet
+of war vessels, transports, and tenders which Lord Wolseley used as a
+base for his operations in the late campaign lay there without
+difficulty.  From Lake Timsah the Suez Canal holds a roughly parallel
+course with the Freshwater Canal and the Suez line of railway, and passes
+through a long cutting into the Bitter Lakes, an extremely tame and
+uninteresting sheet of water some fifteen miles long, with flat, low,
+sandy banks, and thence into another long cutting—some twenty-six feet
+deep at Shalouf—after which the flat sandy plains of Suez are traversed,
+and the head of the gulf reached.
+
+The impression is general that the Suez Canal is cut through immense
+deposits of sand, or sand and water, but this is quite erroneous.  The
+desert, it is true, is sandy and sterile, but the sand is quite
+superficial, covering a gypseous clay, not at all difficult to work in.
+From Balah to the Bitter Lakes there is fine muddy sand, with clay at
+intervals, and at Serapeum a rocky barrier.  From the Bitter Lakes to
+Suez, however, there is a good clay, with limestone at Shalouf.  The
+sinuosities in the Canal are such as to render the passage of vessels
+over 400 feet long somewhat difficult.  It was expected that these curves
+would prevent the washing away of the banks, but it is doubtful whether
+they have at all contributed to the preservation of the sandy
+embankments.  Indeed, most of the predictions of the early destruction of
+the Canal by the operation of natural causes have been proved to be as
+ill-founded as such predictions generally are.  The banks have no
+ill-regulated propensity for crumbling away.  The Canal is _not_ in
+perpetual and imminent danger of being silted-up.  The enormous and
+costly dredging operations that were to swallow more than the revenue of
+the undertaking are unknown, and the sole matter for regret is that the
+Canal was not made as wide again as it is, for the accommodation of the
+vast traffic it has created.  Among the many confident prophesies made by
+professional engineers of the day, one stands recorded in the technical
+papers to the effect that every vessel must necessarily be towed through
+the Canal, the explanation being that the regulation speed of five miles
+per hour was not sufficient to afford steering “way”; hence, said the
+prophet, the slightest wind across the line of the Canal must infallibly
+blow ashore any vessel whose commander should have the temerity to
+attempt to steam between the two seas.  Experience, however, has shown
+that the largest vessels are under perfect command when propelled by
+their own engines.
+
+It is impossible for anyone to pass through the Canal without being
+impressed with the urgent necessity for vastly increased accommodation
+for the constantly augmenting traffic.  The delays occasioned by the
+difficulties in coaling, the blocks in the Canal—caused sometimes by the
+enormous traffic, and sometimes by the sinking of a ship across the
+narrow channel—are most vexatious.  No less than five days elapsed
+between the time of the arrival of our steamer at Port Saïd and of its
+departure from Suez, a distance of less than one hundred miles.
+
+In every way it is most unfortunate for English commerce that—thanks to
+the mulish obstinacy of Lord Palmerston—the management of the Canal
+should have been thrown into the hands of Frenchmen; for, while according
+the highest meed of praise to M. de Lesseps for his genius, tenacity of
+purpose, and energy, in designing and carrying out such a vast
+undertaking in the teeth of obstacles which would have daunted most men,
+it is impossible to ignore the fact that, as compared with English
+traffic-managers, the French officials responsible for the working of the
+Canal are vastly inferior in capacity.  The spirit of officialism as
+displayed by a liberal use of red tape, and a certain non-elasticity in
+carrying out the laws, so familiar to all travellers in France, exists in
+an intensified form in the local management of the Canal.  To the
+ordinary traveller through the Canal, for example, it seems absurd that
+vessels should be stopped for the night while some hours of light remain,
+yet as soon as the sun goes down no further advance can be made.  Again,
+although daylight comes long before sunrise, it is forbidden to move till
+the sun is up.  Then again, experience shows that by the use of the
+electric light the largest vessels can be handled with the utmost ease.
+An electric light fixed in the foremast of a ship sweeps the Canal from
+bank to bank, and for all practical purposes gives a light equal to that
+of day; it seems strange, therefore, that vessels possessing such
+appliances should not be permitted to proceed during the night.  If one
+ventures to make such a suggestion to a Canal official, he at once
+replies that the rules laid down for the regulation of the traffic forbid
+night passages, and if one further ventures to remind him that the said
+rules were made before the introduction of electric lighting, he shrugs
+his shoulders and plainly intimates that you have tried his patience long
+enough.
+
+A little delegation of authority from the chief office to the pilot or
+other Canal official on board the ships would at once result in a vast
+diminution of delay, and consequently in an increase to the capability of
+the Canal, but the genius of French administration appears to be opposed
+to the granting of any latitude or freedom of action to inferior
+officials, and so in the administration of the Canal everything is done
+by the official at the chief office in Ismailïa, who transmits his orders
+by telegraph.
+
+But, after all the practicable improvements in the navigation of the
+present Canal have been made, the necessity for a new one will be no less
+urgent, and it is especially unfortunate that the Conservative party
+should have made negotiations with M. de Lesseps so difficult by openly
+suggesting that we should use our accidental supremacy in Egypt to
+advance the national interests, without regard to the rights possessed by
+him.  Whatever the actual status of M. de Lesseps, under his concession,
+may be, it is clear that he has always considered he had a monopoly.  At
+the outset he endeavoured to enlist British sympathy and capital in his
+undertaking by demonstrating that the bulk of the traffic must
+necessarily come from English sources.  Was it probable, therefore, he
+would have spent the Company’s capital in making the Canal if, after
+having demonstrated its success, an English company were at liberty to
+make another, alongside, and take away four-fifths of its traffic?
+
+In business matters the French are proverbially short-sighted.  They fail
+to see that “three sixpences are better than one shilling,” and are
+consequently unwilling to surrender present advantages without an
+absolute certainty of an early and great benefit arising from their doing
+so.  They are much more truly a nation of retailers or shopkeepers than
+the English are, notwithstanding Napoleon’s famous epithet.  What is
+wanted is a greater breadth of view in the administration of the Canal,
+and it is in this respect that it is particularly unfortunate there is
+not a larger English representation on the Board of Management.  If we
+had a representation equal to our share of the capital, the result would
+soon be apparent in the adoption of a line of policy giving the utmost
+facilities to the Canal’s customers, to the great advantage of both.
+
+The recent discussions upon the Suez Canal question cannot fail to be of
+the greatest use to the Government when they reopen negotiations with M.
+de Lesseps, and if the latter finds it impossible to make another canal
+without a further concession of land, he may probably think it advisable
+to conciliate his partner and chief customer by making greater
+concessions in return for the influence of the British Government with
+that of the Khedive and the Sultan on his behalf.
+
+But even if no further advantages for British commerce be obtained from
+the Canal Company, this country occupies a unique position as regards
+communication with the East.  In less than fifteen years the whole of the
+original cost of the British shares, both principal and interest, will
+have been paid out of profits, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer of the
+day will have to decide as to the destination of the revenue which the
+shares produce.  It appears to me that, after making provision for the
+necessary expenses attending the administration of the property, it would
+be both just and politic to return the balance to the owners of the ships
+whose use of the Canal has been the means of creating the revenue.  If
+this course be adopted British commerce will be immensely benefited, for
+our ships will be able to use the Canal at a little more than half the
+expense falling upon those of other nations, and this great advantage
+will have been obtained without having cost the British taxpayer a single
+penny.  The money will simply be returned into the hands which
+contributed it, and the proposal, therefore, does not in any way partake
+of the character of a bounty.
+
+What is known as the Dual Control was established in 1879.  By it the
+British and French Controllers-General were invested with considerable
+powers over the administration of the finances, in addition to which the
+Khedive undertook to assign a certain portion of the revenue for the
+discharge of the national obligations.
+
+In the following year a Law of Liquidation, as drawn up by the
+Commissioners appointed for the purpose, was issued with the agreement of
+all the interested European Powers.
+
+In return for these concessions, the Foreign Bondholders made a
+compromise with the Egyptian Government involving the surrender of a
+considerable portion of their claims.  This settlement, while relieving
+the country from an enormous burden, placed it in a position to meet its
+liabilities and to progress in the development of its resources, and, in
+the language of Lord Granville in his despatch to Lord Dufferin, “it was
+undoubtedly working well for the material prosperity of the country, and
+promised to do so for the future;” and in a subsequent despatch the
+Foreign Secretary declared that, through the action of the Control, great
+advantages had been secured for the natives, such as “the spread of
+education, the abolition of vexatious taxation, the establishment of the
+land-tax on a regular and equitable basis, and the diminution of forced
+labour.”
+
+Our dragoman, an intelligent Copt, fully corroborated Lord Granville’s
+statement.  He said that all that the Egyptian people required was
+moderate taxation, certainty as to its amount and as to the time of its
+collection, and such a military law as would relieve them from the
+press-gang.  He further said that before the institution of the Control,
+whenever the Khedive wanted a new ironclad, or a new palace, or half a
+dozen additional inmates for his harem, he ordered a new tax to be
+levied; this tax was sold to some of the rapacious pachas about the
+Palace, and resold by them to professional tax-gatherers.  These wretches
+committed the greatest atrocities upon the miserable fellaheen, exacting
+the uttermost farthing under the threat, and often the actual
+application, of torture; “but now,” said my informant, “although the
+taxes are heavy, their amount is known, and they are collected in coin
+after the harvest has been gathered.”
+
+The country was becoming very prosperous, and there was a surplus in the
+Treasury when, in February, 1881, a military riot broke out, originating
+in the arrest of certain Egyptian officers, among whom was the Colonel of
+the 1st Regiment.  The officers of this regiment broke into the Council
+Room of the Ministry of War, ill-treated the Minister, and then, having
+released the prisoners, proceeded to the Khedive’s Palace, followed by
+the men of the regiment.  In menacing tones they demanded the dismissal
+of the Minister of War, and redress for their grievances.  Arabi Bey was
+one of the chief actors in this revolt.  The Khedive was compelled to
+submit, the mutinous colonels were reinstated, and tranquillity was
+restored for the time.
+
+The army officers were not long, however, in showing what their principal
+object was, for in a few weeks after the revolt, decrees were issued
+increasing the pay of the army and navy to the extent of nearly £60,000 a
+year.  The Controllers-General had now become aware that everything was
+at the disposal of the military party, and that the Minister could not
+guarantee that the officers would not next day insist upon fresh
+financial concessions.  The next demand made by the colonels was that
+nominations to vacant posts in regiments should rest with them, and this
+was granted.  The object of all this was clear enough—indeed, Arabi
+declared at one of the meetings of the Commission that “he would not
+yield unconditional obedience to the War Minister.”  As time went on
+fresh symptoms of disaffection broke out, all indicating the
+determination of the military party to throw off all control and
+restraint.  In September the Ministry was dismissed at the instance of
+these same men, who throughout the remainder of the year continued a
+harassing series of turbulent outbreaks, gradually increasing in
+audacity, and more and more trenching upon matters of administration.
+They went so far as to demand an increase in the army, involving an
+annual addition to the estimates of £280,000, although the Controllers
+declared that not nearly half that amount was available.
+
+The principal figure in all these outbreaks was Arabi, who steadily kept
+himself at the head of the disaffected party, and gradually increased his
+influence.  After being appointed Under Secretary of War, then Chief
+Secretary, he was described by Sir E. Malet as having become “Arbiter of
+the destinies of the country.”  In March he was made Pasha, and the
+Khedive was compelled to assent to a number of promotions by Arabi, who
+insisted on dispensing with the examination required by law for officers.
+In a word, the real power had become vested in the chiefs of the military
+party, and the objects of those chiefs were showing themselves more and
+more evidently to be, increase of the army, increase of pay and promotion
+of a large number of officers to high military rank—the desire of all
+such men in every country of the world.
+
+In the following month Arabi caused numerous arrests to be made among the
+officers and soldiery in consequence of an alleged conspiracy to murder
+him.  Among the prisoners was the Minister of War, who had been dismissed
+at the demand of the mutinous regiments in the previous February.  The
+prisoners were tried by a court-martial—irregularly constituted—and the
+proceedings were kept secret, while no counsel were allowed for the
+defence.  It was generally believed that torture had been used to extort
+confession.  Forty officers were condemned to exile for life to the
+farthest limits of the Soudan.  The Khedive, with great courage, refused
+to sanction the sentence, and issued a decree commuting it to simple
+banishment from Egypt.
+
+In the meantime the excitement continued to increase, and the Governments
+of France and England decided to send a naval force to Alexandria for the
+protection of the interests of their subjects in Egypt.  The combined
+fleet arrived at Alexandria on the 20th of May.  On June 11th the great
+riot and massacre of Europeans took place, Arabi in the meanwhile
+erecting new earthworks and strengthening the forts, in spite of his
+repeated assurances to the contrary.  On July 11th, the French fleet
+having withdrawn, and twenty-four hours’ notice having expired, Admiral
+Seymour opened fire on the forts, and after a few hours completely
+silenced them; not, however, without his ships having suffered
+considerably in the encounter.
+
+The above is a sketch of Arabi’s career from the time of his first coming
+into public notice to the time when he became Dictator.  He was at no
+pains to conceal his character as a military adventurer, and every
+successive step in his career proves him to have been no other.  It is
+true that during the last few weeks he appeared to carry the country with
+him, which, however, is not difficult to account for, seeing that he was
+“master of the legions,” and that detachments of the army had been sent
+out into the highways and byways to compel men to come in at the point of
+the bayonet.  In ordinary times it is no uncommon thing to see a
+chain-gang going through the streets of Egyptian towns composed, not of
+criminals, but of unhappy wretches brought in by the press-gang for
+service in the army, and should any of them falter in their steps through
+weariness or despair, the heavy stick of the driver is always ready to
+descend upon their shoulders.  The only effect of the success of the
+movement headed by Arabi would have been the perpetuation and extension
+of this terrible state of things; and yet this is the man who has been
+persistently held up to the admiration of the world as a pure-minded
+patriot by a large section of what is called the Peace Party in England.
+In the towns Arabi and his agents worked upon the cupidity of the lower
+orders by telling them that he intended to drive the foreigners into the
+sea, and that their property should be given over to a general loot.  In
+the country districts, where the fellaheen are ground down under the heel
+of the usurer—always a foreigner, as the Koran forbids usury—Arabi
+promised to cancel the village debts, and banish the usurers; {259a}
+while in Upper Egypt, where usury is less common, he appealed to
+Mohammedan fanaticism.  But nowhere did he appeal to a national
+sentiment, {259b} until, indeed, by various devices, he had become
+absolute master of the country, when perhaps he thought he might say
+_L’Etat, c’est moi_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+A wretched journey of over eight hours by rail brought us to Alexandria
+shortly before midnight.  A fierce gale with rain prevailed during most
+of the journey, and owing to the dilapidated condition of the carriage,
+waterproofs were necessary to protect us from the rain, which, in spite
+of closed windows, found access to every part of the compartment.  The
+line itself and the whole of the rolling stock, were in a miserable
+condition of disrepair, and utterly unfit for traffic.
+
+The drive from the railway station to the Hotel Abbat gave us our first
+glimpse of the ruin wrought by the rioters.  The raging storm and
+drenching sleet were singularly in accord with the scene of desolation
+and misery on every hand.  After the long and cold railway journey, and
+the drive in the open vehicle from the station, we were in hopes of
+finding comfortable quarters in the hotel, but the wretchedness
+prevailing outside seemed to have penetrated into every corner of the
+establishment.  It was impossible to get anything hot to eat, and the
+cold meats were most uninviting.  The proprietor, expecting another train
+in about an hour, deferred serving even this cold cheer until its
+arrival.  Meanwhile nothing remained for us but to try to warm ourselves
+by pacing up and down the scantily-furnished _salle a manger_.
+
+                        [Picture: A Familiar Face]
+
+We were glad to get to bed notwithstanding that the carpets in the
+bedrooms were flapping in the wind in the most vigorous manner during the
+night.
+
+On rising next morning we found the storm had not abated, indeed it
+continued with undiminished fury during the whole of our stay.  Our time,
+however, being limited, it was necessary to disregard the weather in
+order to visit the scene of the recent operations and the ruins of the
+city.  On leaving the hotel our dragoman of three years ago, Kalifa, at
+once recognised us, and under his guidance we made a tour of the
+fortresses, going first to Ras-el-Tin.  We found the palace of that name,
+which forms the landward boundary of the fortress, still partially in
+ruins and apparently deserted.  One could not help feeling that the
+architect, in selecting such a site for a royal residence, must have
+regarded the possibility of an attack upon the fort from the sea as being
+too remote to be taken into account.  Some of the other forts had at one
+time stood isolated from the town, but apparently it might be said of the
+Alexandrians that
+
+    “Exceeding peace had made them bold,”
+
+for the approaches to the forts had gradually been built upon until at
+length some of the houses were even erected against the fortifications.
+These were the houses which were destroyed during the bombardment, and
+the ruin of which gave rise to the impression that the city itself had
+been shelled.  All the forts presented the same dismal aspect of ruin.
+Shattered ramparts, battered casemates, huge holes in the walls of the
+store-houses; the heavy Armstrong guns dismantled, some with the muzzle
+pointed high up in the air, others lying on the ground; in all cases the
+gun-carriages smashed and crushed into shapelessness; burst shells, and
+heaps of stones and mortar lying everywhere; great deep pits in the
+ground, showing where an “Inflexible” shell had burst.  The buildings and
+ramparts are of loosely-built stonework, hence wherever a shell struck,
+it told with full and destructive effect.  Here and there one could see
+that a single shell had penetrated a rampart, scattered the earth,
+upheaved a heavy Armstrong, and enveloped a casemate in a heap of
+demolished masonry.  In Fort Aïda an explosion, which wrecked the whole
+place, occurred early in the action.  In the whole of the forts there
+were Armstrong guns of great calibre and of modern date.  Their
+appearance after the bombardment was most extraordinary: pieces knocked
+out of the muzzles, huge slabs sheared out of their sides, and in many
+cases the coils pitted with shot marks.  In most places, and at Fort Meks
+in particular, the muzzles were burst, but this was the work of the
+landing parties shortly after the action.  There can be no question that
+the armament of these forts was of a very formidable character, and that
+the condition of the fleet after the encounter might have been a very
+serious one had the guns throughout been well handled.
+
+After leaving the Forts we went with a friend, long resident in
+Alexandria, to Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the city.  The word
+Ramleh means “sand,” and that being so it may be said that no place was
+ever more appropriately named.  It is a mere sand waste by the shore, and
+its villas are separated by sand wastes.  The effect is somewhat
+Australian, and the use of verandahs and Venetian shutters helps the
+suggestion.  Our friend’s house was close to what is known as Gun Hill,
+that is, where the 40-pounders were, and from his Egyptian roof he could
+see Arabi’s advanced position and the whole of the British camp.  At 4
+p.m. every day it was the custom to go and see the practice from Gun
+Hill.  Mr. A.’s house was open during the whole time, and he told us it
+was for the most part more like a picnic than a campaign.  The officers,
+however, were frequently called from his billiard table by an alarm from
+the camp, and on such occasions Mr. A. had an understanding with them
+that should the English be driven in they were to warn him when
+retreating past his house by firing a volley through his windows!  There
+were of course times of great anxiety notwithstanding the excitement and
+interest.
+
+Mr. A. was in Alexandria during the massacre, and at the time of the
+bombardment he was only away two days, being the first to return to his
+house and live in it.  While there, many of the neighbouring houses were
+looted.  His description of the daily shooting of looters reminded one of
+the accounts of the latter days of the Paris Commune.  Mr. A.’s garden is
+ornamented with heavy English shells, which, he tells his visitors, fell
+there—from a cart!
+
+During the afternoon we had a stroll through the European quarter of the
+city, and were amazed at the destruction to be seen on every hand.  The
+rows of fine houses, the shops, the buildings of the Grand Square, the
+Place Mohammed Ali, with its gardens, all a mass of unsightly ruins, from
+which workmen were getting out the stones and stacking them up in long
+rows on the footways.  We had been pretty familiar with Alexandria, but
+in the maze of ruined stonework we were completely at a loss and could
+not find our way.  Kalifa, however, came to our assistance, and guided by
+him we took a drive through the native quarter, and soon perceived that,
+though the destruction by incendiarism was unfortunately greatest in the
+European quarter, the _petroleurs_ had not spared their fellows, for many
+native houses were burned.  The extent to which property was destroyed is
+incredible.  There must be several miles of streets in the sheerest ruin.
+The poor shopkeepers of the Place Mohammed Ali now occupy temporary
+wooden shanties, and the general aspect of this once gay and opulent
+quarter is wretched in the extreme.
+
+We next day paid a visit to Fort Meks, but except that its armament was
+somewhat heavier than that of its fellows, there were no new features to
+be seen.  The same desolate appearance of ruin and destruction—crippled
+gun-carriages, burst guns, crumbling ramparts, and shell-ploughed ground.
+This fort, from the accuracy of its gun practice, was the most
+troublesome to the fleet.  The five terrible “Armstrongs,” however, lay
+burst and useless in the sand drifts, with the rude and forgotten graves
+of the poor gunners round about them.
+
+A flood of misplaced eloquence has been expended in denouncing the
+conduct of the British Government for having “bombarded and utterly
+destroyed a defenceless commercial city,” and the statement has been
+repeated so often as to be believed by many; but I will venture to say
+that no one will for one moment believe it who has had the opportunity,
+as I have, of being conducted over the city and the fortifications by an
+intelligent gentleman, an old resident, who was present during the whole
+of the operations, and who emphatically denies that the bombardment of
+the forts caused any greater damage than I have described.  The charge
+has come mainly from the advocates of peace; but it is a misfortune that
+such a sacred cause should be damaged by gross exaggerations, and by
+statements which it is impossible to sustain.  The cause of peace, like
+the temperance cause, has suffered greatly by this habit of exaggeration.
+
+At the _table d’hote_ I sat by an English officer who had been in the
+thick of the fight at Kassassin, and who had escaped unhurt; he did not
+seem inclined to say much about his experiences on that terrible day, but
+he entertained a great respect for the fighting capacity of the Egyptian
+soldier when properly led.
+
+During the whole of our stay in Alexandria the weather continued to be
+extremely boisterous and very cold, and we were glad to get on board the
+P. and O. steamer for Brindisi.  Some Anglo-Indians joined the vessel
+here, and we had an opportunity of observing the way in which some of our
+countrymen treat native races.
+
+A crowd of Arabs in boats were alongside, offering their wares to the
+passengers as they stepped up the side of the ship.  Amongst the rest
+there was a man with his little daughter offering raw eggs, beads,
+shells, etc.  Two of the Anglo-Indians having bought a dozen of the eggs,
+and having stationed themselves in a convenient position on deck,
+proceeded to pelt the poor trader, completely spoiling his stock, and
+covering him and his child with the contents of the missiles.  During the
+voyage these fellows also behaved in a brutal manner towards the native
+stewards on board.  It is not to be wondered at that men like these
+object to judicial powers over Europeans being extended to natives, for
+it is probable that under the operation of the Ilbert Bill they would
+stand a fair chance of getting what they do not want—viz., justice.  It
+is not difficult to imagine how such men would act towards the natives if
+they were a thousand miles away from a court having jurisdiction in cases
+of violence on the part of Europeans against natives.
+
+Stay-at-home folks in England usually think of the Mediterranean as being
+calm as a lake, bathed in sunlight, and blue as the famous grotto in the
+Island of Capri; but such has not been my experience on the three
+occasions upon which I have traversed its length.
+
+Once, however, as we were leaving Alexandria, a very beautiful phenomenon
+presented itself.  The waters of the harbour were of a dead pale
+sea-green while outside the bar the Mediterranean was of an intense,
+opalescent, turquoise-blue, so exquisitely beautiful that the attention
+of the whole ship’s company was directed upon it.  We presently crossed
+the bar and dipped right into this extraordinary colour.  The line of
+demarcation was clear and sharp, and lay just outside the harbour.
+
+On reaching the open sea we encountered a furious gale, which continued
+with varying intensity until our arrival off Brindisi four days
+afterwards—twenty-four hours after time.  The sea, which had been running
+high during the whole voyage, made a clean breach of the bridge on the
+last evening, necessitating the bringing of the vessel’s head to the wind
+and “lying-to” for the night.
+
+On arrival off the entrance to the harbour no pilot was forthcoming, and
+it began to be whispered that we should not be permitted to land without
+undergoing quarantine; but happily our fears proved to be groundless, and
+the captain having run up a signal informing the port authorities of his
+intention to go in without a pilot, we were soon alongside, and on
+European soil once again.
+
+                [Picture: After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns]
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                 THE END.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+Albatross, The                                                27 @115}
+America (_see also_ United                                     135–178
+States)
+America—Journey across from San                                    147
+Francisco
+   Albany                                                          164
+   — Schools at                                                    165
+   Alkali Plains, The                                              155
+   American Language                                               165
+   André, Major                                                    167
+   Appetising Mottoes and                                          160
+Sentiments
+   Arnold, General                                                 167
+   Bill of Fare, A Curious                                         160
+   Blue Gum, The (_illus_)                                         148
+   Brigham Young’s Dominions                                       155
+   Bright, John                                                    151
+   Boats                                                           165
+   Bogus Ticket Sellers, Beware                                    157
+of
+   Buildings, Block of, Removed                                    161
+Bodily
+   Bull Frogs                                                      149
+   Buttes, The                                                     158
+   Cañons                                                     152, 157
+   Cape Horn                                                       152
+   Catskill Mountains                                              165
+   Chicago                                                    160, 161
+   — Fires in                                                      161
+   — Streets in, Equal to Best in                                  161
+London
+   — Timber Houses still Numerous                                  161
+   — Water Supply for                                              161
+   Churches, Opposition                                            167
+   Corinné                                                         155
+   Corn over Ten Feet High                                         147
+   — without Manure                                                147
+   Country like a Park                                             147
+   Cow-Catcher, The                                                154
+   Crash, A Tremendous                                             152
+   Descent of 8,000 feet                                           159
+   Detroit                                                         162
+   Devil’s Slide, The (_illus_)                                    159
+   Dining Car, A Well-appointed                                    160
+   Dollar will Go a Long Way                                       168
+   Elevation, Greatest Attained                                    152
+   English Gold Refused                                            157
+   Eschscholtzias growing wild                                     147
+   Eucalyptus, The (_illus_)                                       148
+   Falls River                                                     164
+   Fields Hundreds of Acres in                                     147
+extent
+   Fires in Chicago                                                161
+   Flowers, Immense patches of                                     147
+   Free Country                                                    169
+   Gold-Diggings reworked by                                       149
+Chinese
+   — Track through                                                 148
+   Gum Tree, The (_illus_)                                         148
+   Hotel, The Grand Pacific,                                       162
+Chicago
+   Hudson River                                               165, 167
+   Identification a Difficult                                      161
+Task
+   I guess I’ll take your Gold                                     157
+   Indians, Dreadful looking                                       149
+   — on the War-Path                                               152
+   John Scales, Justice of the                                     168
+Peace (_illus_)
+   Justice, A Dealer in                                            168
+   Lake Ontario                                                    164
+   Language, American                                              164
+   Life on the Road, A New                                         161
+Feature of
+   Lupins growing wild                                             147
+   Marigolds, Patches of                                           147
+   Military Academy, West Point                                    167
+   Mineral Wealth, Untold                                          148
+   Money-Lender complains                                          148
+   Monument Rock (_illus_)                                         158
+   Mormon Advice                                                   154
+   — Tabernacle Visited                                            157
+   — Wives lack Cordiality                                         156
+   Narrow Escape                                                   151
+   Night Attack on Indians                                         153
+   Ogden                                                      156, 157
+   Omaha                                                           160
+   Pacific Railroad, A Single                                      151
+Track
+   Pallisades, The, Hudson River                                   166
+(_illus_)
+   Passport Found Useful                                           161
+   Pine Forests                                                    149
+   Poultry Secured by the Leg                                      169
+   Pullman Train, Life on Board                                    149
+   Railway Covered with Sheds                                      152
+   — on Trestles                                                   157
+   — Open to Prairie                                               154
+   — Ride, a splendid one                                          177
+   Red Sandstone Rocks                                             158
+   Ride, A Long (Omaha to                                          160
+Chicago)
+   Rip van Winkle                                                  165
+   River Boats                                                     165
+   — Hudson                                                   165, 167
+   Rome                                                            164
+   Sacramento Valley                                               147
+   Saints, Cruel Treatment by the                                  153
+   Salt Lake City Beautifully                                      156
+Situated
+   — (_illus_)                                                     155
+   Sambo said “No Sah!”                                            159
+   Schools, National, at Albany                                    165
+   Snow Mountains                                                  149
+   — Travelling through                                            157
+   Soil Twenty Feet Deep                                           147
+   Steamers on the Rivers                                          165
+   Streets in Chicago Equal to                                     161
+Best in London
+   Sulphur Spring                                                  157
+   Syracuse                                                        164
+   Taurus Meets the Train                                          154
+   Tennyson Claimed as an                                          165
+American Author
+   Timber Houses still Numerous                                    161
+in Chicago
+   Train, The Last Over                                            152
+   — The, Met by Taurus                                            154
+   Trapper’s Story, The                                            153
+   Turning Point between East and                                  152
+West
+   Utica                                                           164
+   Water Supply for Chicago                                        161
+   West Point, on the Hudson                                       167
+   Witches, The                                                    158
+American Grievance                                                 128
+— Passengers from Honolulu                                         127
+Americans not good Sailors                                         127
+Ascension, Island of (_illus_)                                      17
+Auckland                                                           115
+Avoca (_illus_)                                                     67
+   Woolgrowers                                                      67
+Australian Colonies (_see also_                                    101
+Melbourne, Sydney, Victoria,
+Tasmania, New South Wales)
+   Agricultural Labour, A Fine                                     111
+Field for
+   Artisans, Skilled                                               110
+   Australia, People of,                                           112
+Described
+   — Young                                                         111
+   Climate Exhausting                                              110
+   _Ornithorhynchus paradoxus_                                     112
+(_illus_)
+   Drought, A Ten Months’                                          113
+   Education Amply Provided for                                    111
+   Emigrate, Who should                                            110
+   Free Trade                                                      101
+   Labour Market, State of                                         101
+   — Unskilled, A Fine Field for                                   111
+   Mining Machinery, Perfection                                    107
+of
+   Platypus, The Duck-billed                                       112
+(_illus_)
+   Population                                                      120
+   — Surplus, Great Field for                                      110
+   Postal Arrangements                                             111
+   Protection                                                      101
+   Railways                                                        111
+   Rent of Houses Enormously Dear                                  110
+   Schools, First-rate                                             111
+   Telegraphs                                                      111
+   Wages Higher, but Most Things                                   110
+Dearer, than in England
+Baby Hippopotamus at Play                                           21
+(_illus_)
+Ballarat                                                            48
+   Botanical Gardens                                                49
+   Gold Mine                                                        48
+   — (_illus_)                                                      49
+   — Smallness of                                                   49
+   Gold Raised                                                      49
+   Lake Wendouree                                                   49
+Bananas                                                            127
+Bay of Biscay                                                        5
+Betting on Board Ship                                               26
+Boat in a Squall off Plymouth                                        2
+Brandy or Whisky?                                                  131
+Brummagem Shams, where                                              13
+manufactured
+Burial at Sea                                                      131
+Burying the Dead Horse (_illus_)                                    21
+Campbell Town                                                       74
+   Our Waiter at (_illus_)                                          79
+Canada                                                             162
+   American Customs Officer’s                                      164
+Equipment
+   Clifton House, Niagara                                          162
+   Desecration, Ruthless                                           163
+   Green Fields like those at                                      162
+Home
+   Great Western Railway                                           162
+   London                                                          162
+   Niagara, Impressions of                                         164
+   Paris                                                           162
+   Photographers                                                   163
+   Salary, Must Raise, I Guess                                     164
+   Suspension Bridge at Niagara,                                   164
+Crossing
+Centipedes, A Plague of                                            127
+Chair, Taking the                                                  129
+Coral Reefs                                                   116, 118
+Day Dropped                                                        119
+Day Gained                                                         119
+Duel, Rumours of                                                   121
+Educated in Four Colleges                                          130
+Egypt                                                          181–268
+   Abaid                                                           197
+   Abbaseyeh Palace                                                216
+   Abbas Pasha                                                     216
+   Abraham or Isaac, Old Fellow                                    191
+like
+   Aden, a Dreadful Place                                          239
+   — Importance of                                                 239
+   Adenese Women (_illus_)                                         240
+   Agricultural Operations                                         223
+   Agriculture à la Adam                                           188
+   Alexandria                                                      260
+   — in Ruins                                                      264
+   — not Bombarded                                                 265
+   — the Forts after Bombardment                                   262
+   Anglo-Indians                                                   266
+   Apis Mausoleum, The                                             203
+   Arab, A Discerning                                              232
+   — An, Hanged                                                    228
+   — School in Syria                                               211
+   Arabi, Appointed Under                                          256
+Secretary of War
+   — at Colombo                                                    238
+   — Bey                                                           255
+   — Causes Numerous Arrests                                       257
+   — Erects New Earth-works                                        258
+   — How he Recruited his Army                                     258
+   — Made Pasha                                                    257
+   — Military Adventurer                                           258
+   — Moved in a singular way                                       239
+   — Principal Figure in                                           256
+Outbreaks
+   — Visit to                                                      238
+   Arabi’s Personal Appearance                                     239
+   Arabs, Bedouin                                                  183
+   — How Kept in Order                                             181
+   — Picturesque Party of                                          181
+   Au Revoir (_illus_)                                             225
+   Backsheesh                            185, 190, 195, 197, 198, 207,
+                                          210, 218, 224, 228, 241, 243
+   — not demanded                                                  210
+   Balah, Lake of                                             245, 248
+   Bazaars, In the                                                 190
+   Bedrashên                                                       201
+   Beggars                                                         195
+   Bellows, not made in                                            191
+Birmingham
+   Bery cheap, sah! (_illus_)                                      191
+   Bethshemish (Heliopolis)                                        220
+   Biblical Allusions, How to                                      185
+Understand
+   Biograph, A Graphic                                             206
+   Bitter Lakes, The, Identified                                   246
+with Marah
+   — Saltness of                                                   247
+   Black Guard, A                                                  242
+   Blacking a Boy’s Bare Feet                                      186
+   Blue Jackets, Look at our                                       237
+_de-ah_
+   Blue Ribbon Army                                                233
+   Boat or Dahabieh                                                215
+   Boats, How Propelled                                            181
+   Bohemiennes                                                     228
+   Bonaparte, Attempts to Reopen                                   245
+Suez Canal
+   Bond-holders, Foreign                                           254
+   Bridal Party, A                                                 192
+   Brindisi                                                        267
+   British Canal Shares                                            253
+Profitable
+   — Mission, Schools at                                           211
+   Bûlak, A Street in (_illus_)                                    219
+   — Suburb of Cairo                                               220
+   Bull, The Sacred                                                203
+   Burying-ground                                                  202
+   Cairo                                                 187, 188, 242
+   — Sanitary Condition of,                                        244
+Shocking
+   — Trades of                                                     188
+   — Visit to, by Train                                            184
+   Camelcade, A (_illus_)                                          208
+   Camelcades                                                      207
+   Camels, Strings of                                              207
+   Carriages, Ladies’                                              212
+   Casinos                                                         228
+   Cemetery, An Ancient                                            202
+   Cetewayo, _alias_ The Carrib                               229, 234
+   — Disguised as a Gentleman                                 235, 236
+(_illus_)
+   Cheops, Great Pyramid of                                        197
+   Children, Naked                                                 208
+   Christian, I am a                                               218
+   Citadel, The                                                    194
+   City, A great                                                   202
+   Civ-il, One must be                                             236
+   Colombo                                                         238
+   Colonels, The, Make further                                     256
+Demands
+   Concert, A Pleasant, Looked                                     228
+Forward to
+   Cook and Son                                                    241
+   — Name of, a Talisman                                           241
+   Coptic Guide offered a                                          190
+Commission
+   Coral Necklaces                                                 227
+   Cotter, Lieutenant                                              229
+   Court Martial, Irregular                                        257
+   Crocodile                                                       206
+   — A dead                                                        216
+   — Lake                                                          248
+   Crowd, A Motley                                                 181
+   Custom-house Examination                                        182
+   — occupied by English                                      227, 229
+Artillerymen
+   Dahabieh or Nile boat                                           215
+   Dancers and Howlers                                             210
+   Dervishes, The, Dancing and                                     209
+Howling
+   — The, Supported by Government                                  210
+Endowment
+   Desert, Prayers in the                                          209
+(_illus_)
+   Devils, Familiar                                                195
+   Donkey Boy, An Egyptian                                         184
+(_illus_)
+   — My Donkey, good sah                                           184
+   Donkey Ride                                                     183
+   — across the Nile                                               215
+   Donkeys for Nine                                                183
+   — Homeward Bound                                                216
+   — Names of                                                      183
+   — Universal Use of                                              214
+   Dragoman (_illus_)                                              182
+   Drive to Heliopolis                                             216
+   Dual Control, The                                               254
+   Dutch Hotel occupied by Royal                                   228
+Marines
+   Egg-hatching Establishment                                      194
+   Eggs, she only steals the Eggs                                  212
+now
+   Egypt, British Occupation of,                                   244
+how Beneficial
+   — by whom Disliked                                              244
+   Egyptian Character, Saddest                                     220
+Side of
+   — People, Requirements of                                       255
+   Electric Light, The,                                            231
+   El Guisr, The Cutting of                                        248
+   Embroidery                                                      190
+   End, The (_illus_)                                              268
+   Englishman perfidious                                           240
+   English Representation on                                       252
+Board of Management of Suez Canal
+not large enough
+   Ethiopia shall yet Stretch                                      185
+Forth her Hand
+   European Buildings, Few                                         183
+   Exclusiveness, British                                          242
+   Excursion, A delightful                                         208
+   Ezbekiyeh Public Gardens                                        244
+   Face, A Familiar (_illus_)                                      261
+   Fair-day, A                                                     222
+   Fakir, A Holy (_illus_)                                    220, 222
+   Fehmi Pasha                                                     239
+   Fellaheen, The, ground down                                     259
+   Fort Aïda                                                       263
+   — Meks                                                     263, 265
+   — Gemileh                                                       229
+   French, A Nation of Retailers                                   252
+   — Fleet, The, Withdraws                                         258
+   — The, outwitted                                                240
+   Fresh-water Canal completed                                     246
+   Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath                                  209
+   Gamblers on Board Ship                                          235
+   Gentlemen of the Long Robe                                      227
+   Gizeh, Pyramids of                                              195
+   — Station                                                       201
+   Goshen, Land of                                                 244
+   — Land of, preferred                                            244
+   Governor, A ’cute                                               239
+   Graphic Biograph, A                                             206
+   Graveyard at Tel-el-Kebir                                       243
+   Greek Money-changer                                             226
+   Gun Hill                                                        263
+   Hassan                                                182, 184, 241
+   — Sultan                                                        192
+   — Disguised as a Pilgrim                                        192
+   — How he Recovered his Throne                                   194
+   Heliopolis (Bethshemish)                                        220
+   — Drive to                                                      216
+   Hens, Laziness of                                               194
+   Hippopotamus                                                    206
+   Homes, Everlasting                                              207
+   Home to Vote                                                    225
+   Hostelries                                                      207
+   Hotel Abbat                                                     260
+   Howlers and Dancers                                             210
+   Insects something Maddening                                     230
+   Irrigation                                                      223
+   — Method of, Described                                          188
+   Ismailïa                                                   186, 248
+   Jewellers                                                       191
+   — Weighing for                                                  191
+   Joseph and Mary’s Tree                                          218
+   Kantara                                                         247
+   Khalifs, The Tombs of the                                       218
+(_illus_)
+   Khedive’s Gardens, The                                          215
+   Khedive, The                                               208, 212
+   — The, Compelled to submit                                      255
+   Koran, The, in Competition                                      189
+with Threepenny Pieces
+   Labour, Forced, a Painful                                       187
+Sight
+   Lady, The Last Unmarried                                        230
+   Lake Menzaleh                                              230, 247
+   — Timsah                                                        248
+   Lakes, The Bitter                                          245, 249
+   Law of Liquidation                                              254
+   Lepère’s Theory                                                 245
+   — Proved Incorrect                                              245
+   Lesseps, M., Detained at                                        245
+Alexandria
+   — Matures his Theory                                            246
+   L’etat, c’est moi                                               259
+   Leviathan, Job’s Reference to                                   207
+   Lucullus                                                        259
+   Lily, Painting the                                              186
+   Luggage, A Lady’s                                               184
+   — How Treated                                                   181
+   Mameluke Dynasty, The Last of                                   218
+   Mamelukes, Massacre of                                          194
+   Manufacturing Quarter                                           191
+   Mariette exhumes the Serapeum                                   203
+   Marines                                                         229
+   — as Police                                                     230
+   Mausoleum, The Apis                                             203
+   Mecca Pilgrims, Rendezvous of                                   216
+   Mediterranean, The                                              267
+   — Waters of, Flow into Bitter                              246, 248
+Lakes
+   Member, Once a, always a                                        234
+Member
+   Memphis                                                         202
+   — Ancient, Site of                                              201
+   — Little more than a Name                                       202
+   Menzaleh, Lake of                                               245
+   Military Riot                                                   255
+   Mitrahineh (site of Ancient                                     201
+Memphis)
+   Mohammed Ali, Mosque of                                         194
+   Money-Changers’ Liberality                                      227
+   Monument, Most Ancient in the                                   202
+World
+   Mosque of Sultan Hassan, Visit                                  194
+to
+   — The, of Sultan Hassan                                         193
+(_illus_)
+   Mother, Son thrashes her only                                   212
+once a month
+   Mud, Great Difficulty in                                        230
+Making Canal
+   Museum, The National, for                                       222
+Egyptian Antiquities
+   Mutinous Conduct                                                256
+   Naval Force sent by France and                                  257
+England
+   — Arrival at Alexandria                                         257
+   Nap on Deck                                                     234
+   Necropolis, Ancient                                             202
+   Nile-boat, A                                                    216
+   Nile, The                                                       187
+   — Valley of                                                     188
+   — View on the (_illus_)                                         198
+   Nobleman, The Languishing                                       184
+   Noph (Memphis)                                                  202
+   Nubians Reported to be                                          229
+Excellent Soldiers
+   Obelisk, The Oldest in Egypt                                    218
+   Octroi, or Town Tax                                             216
+   On (Heliopolis)                                                 220
+   Orgies, Pious                                                   210
+   Orient, The Steamship                                           186
+(_illus_)
+   — a Magnificent Steamship                                       181
+   Orphans, Venerable                                              224
+   Palmerston, Lord, thwarts                                       246
+Lesseps
+   Palms, Oranges, and Lemons                                      218
+   Patriarchal Group, A                                            197
+   Pebbles as Mementoes of                                         243
+Tel-el-Kebir
+   Peep, A (_illus_)                                               190
+   Penny, New, Refused                                             185
+   People, Vast Numbers with                                       185
+Nothing to do
+   Perim, Island of, how acquired                                  239
+   Pious Orgies                                                    210
+   Police, The, Armed with Long                                    216
+Spikes
+   Port Saïd                                                  230, 247
+   — a Dreadful Place to Live in                                   230
+   — Harbour                                                       231
+   — Lighthouse                                                    231
+   — Railway wanted to                                             232
+   Power vested in Military Party                                  257
+   Prayers in the Desert                                           209
+(_illus_)
+   Predictions, Ill-founded                                        249
+   President, The, of Red Ribbon                                   235
+Army
+   Pyramid, Ascending the Great                                    196
+(_illus_)
+   — The great Step                                                202
+   — The Oldest                                                    202
+   Pyramids, Road to                                               187
+   — The                                                           216
+   — The, First View of                                            187
+   Quarantine                                                      268
+   Ramleh                                                          263
+   Ramses II, Statue of                                            202
+   Ras-el-Tin                                                      261
+   Red Tape                                                        250
+   — Ribbon Army                                                   233
+   Rendezvous of Mecca Pilgrims                                    216
+   Revoir, Au (_illus_)                                            225
+   Riot and Massacre of Europeans                                  257
+   Rotten Row of Cairo, The                                        212
+   Runners or Saïs, The (_illus_)                             212, 212
+   Sabbath, the Mohammedan                                         209
+   Safes, obviously of English                                     191
+Manufacture
+   Saïs, The                                                       212
+   Sacred Bull, Burying-place of                                   203
+   Sakkara, To                                                     201
+   Sand, A good Preservative                                       205
+   Sarcophagus, A huge                                             203
+   School, An Arab, in Syria                                       211
+   — Interrupted                                                   189
+   Schoolmaster’s, A,                                              211
+Disappointment
+   Schoolmaster, The, Abroad                                       189
+(_illus_)
+   — The, asks for Backsheesh                                      190
+   Schools, Miss Whateley’s                                        211
+   Sculpture, Life-like                                            222
+   Selim, Sultan                                                   218
+   Serapeum, The (_illus_)                                    203, 204
+   Seymour, Admiral, Opens Fire                                    258
+on Forts
+   Shalouf                                                         248
+   Shave, A, and a Wash (_illus_)                             199, 199
+   Ship of the Desert, A Wrecked                                   223
+   Shoeblacks                                                      186
+   Shops Tiny                                                      182
+   Shubra Avenue, In (_illus_)                                     214
+   — The                                                           212
+   Simon Stylites                                                  220
+   Soldier, British, in Egypt                                      242
+   Soldiers, English, quite at                                     244
+home
+   — glad to have Newspapers                                       230
+   Sphinx, The                                                     216
+   — The (_illus_)                                                 199
+   Spider, The                                           233, 234, 235
+   Spider’s Web, The                                               234
+   Statue, A, Four Thousand Years                                  222
+old
+   Stick, The Heaven-sent                                          198
+   Story-teller, A                                                 222
+   Storytellers, Professional, at                                  188
+Cairo
+   Strabo, on the Serapeum                                         203
+   Street in Bûlak (_illus_)                                       219
+   Streets of Suez Narrow                                          182
+   Suez                                                       241, 248
+   — Arrive off                                                    181
+   Suez Canal, A new Canal wanted                                  252
+   — British Traffic through                                       247
+   — Cost of Constructing                                          247
+   — Does not silt up                                              249
+   — Embankments of                                                247
+   — Erroneous Impressions                                         249
+   — Festivities on Opening                                        247
+   — First Undertaken by Pharaoh                                   244
+Necho
+   — French Officials inferior in                                  250
+capacity
+   — French short-sighted in                                       252
+Business Matters
+   — In the (_illus_)                                              226
+   — Lesseps’ Monopoly                                             252
+   — Lesseps, M. de                                                250
+   — Mercantile Importance of                                      247
+   — Necessity of increased                                        250
+accommodation
+   — Operations begun                                              246
+   — Palmerston, Lord, Obstinacy                                   250
+of
+   — Restrictions Absurd                                           251
+   — Ships not allowed to move                                     251
+after Sun-down
+   — Sinuosities of                                                249
+   — Steamers under perfect                                        250
+control
+   — Suggestion, A                                                 253
+   — How to deal with Profit                                       253
+   — The                                                           244
+   Suez Hotel                                                 182, 242
+   — Streets of, Narrow                                            182
+   Sultan, Selim                                                   218
+   Tel-el-Kebir                                               242, 243
+   Temple, Underground                                             201
+   Tih, The Tomb of                                                205
+   Timsah, Lake, Lord Wolseley’s                                   248
+base of operations
+   Tomb of Tih (_illus_)                                      205, 206
+   Tombs of the Khalifs (_illus_)                                  218
+   Torture, A Novel Instrument of                                  220
+   Town Tax, The, or the Octroi                                    216
+   Treasures, Buried                                               201
+   Tree, The Virgin’s                                              218
+   Umbrellas, A New Use for                                        181
+   Villages, Dreadful Mud                                          207
+   Virgin’s Tree, The                                              218
+   Wash, A, and a Shave (_illus_)                             199, 201
+   Wash Basin, An Impromptu                                        229
+   Washing Hands, A Primitive                                      199
+Mode of
+   Water-carriers (_illus_)                                        215
+   Weigher for the Trade                                           192
+   Whateley’s, Miss, Schools                                       211
+   What lack ye?                                                   226
+   Wild Fowl Shooting, Good                                        230
+   Words which Broke no Bones                                      182
+   Zagazig                                                         187
+Equator, Heat at                                                    24
+Faces too Dark to be Seen                                          122
+Falmouth                                                            63
+   Beach and Sands                                                  71
+   Burial-place (_illus_)                                           70
+   Cockney Sportsman                                                71
+   Der Dichter Spricht                                              65
+   Epping Forest                                                    67
+   Hotel (_illus_)                                                  69
+   Land of Snakes                                                   64
+   Magpies                                                          63
+   River Esk                                                        64
+   Stoney Creek                                                     64
+Fernshaw                                                            53
+   Hard Fare                                                        53
+   Pioneering                                                       53
+Fiji Children ask for More                                         117
+   — Islands                                                       116
+   — Native of (_illus_)                                           117
+Fingal                                                              67
+Fire Brigade Practice                                              119
+Flying Fish                                                         27
+Free Trade                                                          99
+Gambling on Board Ship                                              26
+Golden Gate, The                                                   131
+Gum Trees, A Forest of                                              51
+— (_illus_)                                                     52, 53
+Habits of Islanders acquired                                       128
+Healesville                                                         51
+   A Soafler                                                        51
+   Hotel Accommodation                                          51, 56
+   Remedy, a Sovereign                                              58
+Hobart Town                                                         77
+   Fern Tree Valley                                                 78
+   Harvest in February                                              78
+   Jericho to Jerusalem, via                                        78
+Bagdad
+   New Norfolk                                                      78
+Homeward Bound                                                     127
+Honolulu, Arrival at                                               122
+   Baby Sold for a Dollar                                          126
+   Breakfast ordered Overnight                                     122
+   Brownie, Quite a                                                125
+   Chairs or Seats usually absent                                  126
+   Children described                                              124
+   Country very Poor                                               125
+   Dragon-flies, numerous                                          124
+   Dressmaking not a difficult                                     124
+Art
+   Faces too Dark to be Seen                                       122
+   Fire-flies                                                      122
+   Flowers of the most brilliant                                   124
+colours
+   Grass green and beautiful                                       124
+Hawaiian Islands, King of,                                         123
+Landlord of Hotel
+   Healthiness of                                                  127
+   Heathen Chinee, his Tricks not                                  123
+in Vain
+   Hotel                                                           122
+   Houses made chiefly of Rushes                                   126
+   Islanders _en fète_                                             121
+   Letters, Glad to be Rid of                                      125
+   Library                                                         125
+   Museum                                                          125
+   Natives Dressed in Splendid                                     124
+Colours
+   Parliament House                                                125
+   Passenger Overboard                                             121
+   Perfume of Tropical Flowers                                     122
+   Pilots Decline to go out for                                    121
+Vessels
+   Race fast dying out                                             125
+   Ruth, the King’s Sister                                         127
+(_illus_)
+   Servants gone Home                                              122
+   Squatting on Ground Prevailing                                  126
+Custom
+   Supper not to be had                                            122
+   Temperature of                                                  127
+   Vegetation of                                                   124
+   Village, Native                                                 126
+   Villas Pretty and Numerous                                      126
+   Waiters Celestial                                               123
+   Water, Thoughts when Under                                      121
+   Women’s Clothing, Scanty                                        124
+   Women Stately Looking                                           124
+Honolulu, Hotel at                                                 122
+Horse, Burying the Dead (_illus_)                                   21
+Hotel Experiences                                                   67
+I guess the seat is dry now                                        129
+Irish Bulls, where manufactured                                     13
+Islanders _en fète_                                                121
+Jefferson Brick, Junior                                            129
+Jerra Jerra                                                         96
+Kandavu                                                            115
+Knife Trick, The                                                   130
+Life on Board Ship (see Ship—Life                                 3–39
+on Board)
+Lyre Bird, The (_illus_)                                            59
+Launceston                                                          61
+   Bees in Mourning                                                 62
+   Cicadas                                                          61
+   Cora Linn                                                        63
+   Pomona’s Temple                                                  62
+   Snakes                                                           61
+   Tamar River                                                      61
+   Tasmanian Hospitality                                            62
+   Tonsorial Palace                                                 62
+   Tree Locusts                                                     61
+Marysville                                                          56
+   Stephenson Falls                                                 56
+Meal, a good square one preferred                                  121
+on Shore
+Melbourne (_see also_ Victoria)                                     39
+   Berry Ministry, the                                              43
+   Black Death at                                                   40
+   Black Spur Mountains                                             50
+   — (_illus_)                                                      56
+   Building Trade at, Depressed,                                   102
+Results
+   Bush, The                                                        50
+   Description of                                                   41
+   Education                                                        42
+   Exhibition at, why decided on                                   102
+   Happy Land                                                       46
+   Hobson’s Bay                                                 39, 80
+   Hot Winds                                                        47
+   Natural History Museum                                           42
+   Old Debts, a New Way to Pay                                      45
+   Overland from Sydney                                        94, 100
+   Parliamentary Procedure                                          43
+   Parliament, Houses of                                            45
+   — Payment of Members of                                          44
+   Protection                                                      102
+   Revisited                                                        79
+   Roads                                                            50
+   Sanitary Arrangements,                                           47
+Defective
+   Stage Coaches                                                    50
+   Streets wide and long                                           103
+   Tall and Fat a street sweeper                                    48
+   Tramways opposed by Cabmen                                      103
+   Vineyards                                                        50
+   Yarra Yarra River                                                60
+Mister                                                             130
+Moighty Dry                                                        130
+Native Dish called Poi                                             128
+New South Wales (see also Sydney)                                  107
+   Acres Many, Men Few                                             107
+   Agricultural Machinery,                                         108
+Imported
+   Artisans Attracted from                                         109
+Victoria
+   Customs Revenue, Increase of                                    110
+   Employment Abundant                                             107
+   Exports, Increase of                                            110
+   Free Trade Colony                                               107
+   Hudson Bros, Limited                                            108
+   Immigration Larger than in                                      109
+Victoria
+   Imports, Increase of                                            110
+   Imports in 1782 and 1881                                        109
+   Industry, A Native, Created                                     108
+   Labour, Increasing Demand for                                   109
+   Machinery, Agricultural and                                     108
+Mining, Imports of
+   — Mining, Demand for                                            107
+   Manufacturing Concern, Largest                                  108
+in Colony
+   Men Few, Acres Many                                             107
+   Mining Machinery, Imports of                                    108
+   — Machinery, Perfection of                                      107
+   Policy Opposite to that of                                      107
+Victoria
+   Population Attracted                                            109
+   — Constantly Increasing                                         107
+   — Increase of, in Ten Years                                     110
+   — Room for More                                                 109
+   Prosperity, Evidences of                                        107
+   Railway System, Vast and                                        107
+Expanding
+   Sawmills, Steam, at Sydney                                      108
+   Shipping                                                        107
+   — Development of                                                109
+   — During last Thirty Years                                      109
+   — Repairing Yards Removed from                                  109
+Victoria
+   Timber, Native Better than                                      108
+Imported
+   Trade, Import and Export                                        107
+   Victoria Contrasted with                                        107
+Oatlands                                                            78
+   The Gaol                                                         79
+Pacific Ocean belies its Name                                      115
+Parson, The, Quite at Sea                                           16
+   A Man of Peace now                                               30
+   Colonists’ complain of                                           32
+   Congregation, Secures a                                          16
+   Drain Pipes, how they are made                                   30
+   Mixes his Degrees                                                31
+   Sermon on Geology                                                16
+   Water Pumped from a Mine                                         16
+Twelve Miles Deep
+Passenger, Death of                                                130
+   — falls Overboard                                               121
+Personal Difficulties                                              120
+   — Favour, As a                                                  131
+Pilots Decline to go out for                                       121
+Vessels
+Protection                                                     39, 100
+Salt Water good for the “Spin-ial                                    7
+Orgins”
+San Francisco                                                      131
+   Baggage Master                                                  147
+   Business Activity                                               138
+   — Men, Sharp                                                    140
+   Carriages, Hackney                                              144
+   Character, Bad Better than                                      139
+None
+   Chinaman, Am claimed as a                                       144
+   Chinese Close Shavers                                           141
+   Chinese Pigtails (_illus_)                                      142
+   — Joss Houses Visited                                           143
+   — Quarter Full of Interest                                      141
+   — Numerous                                                      140
+   — Quarter Explored at Night                                     143
+   — Theatre Visited                                               143
+   — Washer_men_                                                   137
+   — Wedding                                                       143
+   Civilisation and Barbarism                                      137
+Face to Face
+   Climate Delightful                                              145
+   Correspondent, A Familiar                                       138
+   Darwin would have been                                          142
+Delighted
+   Dodge, A Favourite                                              139
+   Earning a Cent anyhow                                           132
+   English Fittings                                                137
+   Entrance to Harbour Sighted                                     131
+   Fire Brigades                                                   144
+   Flats and Sharps                                                139
+   Golden Gate, The                                                131
+   Governor, Qualifications for a                                  140
+State
+   Habit, The National                                             138
+   Hackney Carriages                                               144
+   Heat and Dust Terrible                                          147
+   I Guess you are Going to                                        140
+England
+   Jarrett, A. J. C.                                               138
+   John Chinaman                                                   141
+   Knife and Fork, only One at                                     138
+Meals
+   Lady Doctors Numerous                                           140
+   Luggage, Arrangements for,                                      147
+Excellent
+   Min-ne, Little                                                  141
+   Mister, Last of (_illus_)                                       146
+   My Wife is Dead                                                 138
+   Pacific Seal                                                    145
+   Palace Hotel                                               135, 137
+   Police, Messenger from Chief                                    139
+of
+   Sea-lions                                                       145
+   Seal Rocks (_illus_)                                            145
+   Starching, a Fine Art                                           137
+   Streets, Handsome                                               138
+   Tang-y, A Chinese City                                          144
+   Tang-ye, Proof of Celestial                                     144
+Origin
+   Temperature                                                     145
+   Tobacco Chewing and its                                         138
+Consequences
+   Tramways                                                        144
+   Volunteers                                                      144
+   Yosemite Valley                                                 146
+San Francisco, Voyage to                                      113, 132
+Sharks                                                          18, 30
+   — don’t like Dark Skins                                         118
+Ship-Life on board                                                   3
+   Albatross                                                        27
+   Bay of Biscay, Nor’-wester in                                     6
+   Bazaar                                                           34
+   Betting                                                      26, 38
+   Blatant Beast, The, fires a                                      25
+Revolver
+   Burying the Dead Horse                                           21
+   Cabin’d, Cribb’d, Confin’d                                        3
+   Cape Otway                                                       38
+   Captain not so fond of                                           12
+Progress as the Passengers
+   Captains, why they are Tories                                    13
+   Cat Chase                                                        26
+   Collisions at Sea                                                29
+   Colonial Statesman beaten but                                    39
+not vanquished
+   Concerts and Recitations                                          9
+   Congregation, How to Secure a                                    16
+   Consumptive Patients sent too                                     5
+late
+   Cross-signalling                                                 35
+   Danite Band, The                                                 33
+   Death and Burial at Sea                                          15
+   Dolphins                                                         27
+   Dolphin, the “Classic”                                           28
+(_illus_)
+   Dramatic Performance                                             35
+   Exhibition, Fine Art                                             35
+   Fellow-passengers                                                 4
+   First Night on Board                                              3
+   Flying Fish                                                      27
+   Gale off Cape Leeuwin                                            38
+   Genial Captain (_illus_)                                         11
+advantageous
+   German Lady, old but lively                                      19
+   Hobson’s Bay                                                     39
+   Illness of Passengers                                            14
+   Incident in Cornwall recalled                                    24
+   Ixion goes mad                                                   14
+   Letters Home                                                     29
+   Life Friendships formed                                           4
+   Love your Enemies                                                17
+   Melbourne, Arrive at                                             39
+   Music not always harmonious                                      10
+   Night-walkers a nuisance                                          9
+   Nor’-wester in the Bay of                                         6
+Biscay
+   Parson Mixes his Degrees                                         31
+   Pilot Fish                                                       28
+   Passengers paying their                                          30
+Footing
+   — divided into Sets                                               3
+   Peal of Hand-bells                                               16
+   Portuguese Man-of-War                                            28
+   Private Convict System                                            4
+   Quoits a selfish Game                                             9
+   Rolling Forties                                                  38
+   Scarlet Lady                                                     20
+   Sea-sickness, Cure for                                            6
+   Sermon on Geology                                                16
+   Sharks                                                       18, 30
+   Ship in full Sail                                                29
+   Short and Stout                                                  25
+   Soup too Salt                                                    19
+   Sports (_illus_)                                                  8
+   Spurgeon’s Evangelist                                            32
+   Squall near Madeira                                              12
+   Steward’s Life a hard one                                         7
+   Tall and Fat                                                     25
+   Tristan d’Acunha                                                 38
+   Tropical Heat                                                 8, 24
+   Tropical Phosphorescence                                         33
+   Newspaper                                                        10
+   Water Pumped from Twelve Miles                                   16
+Deep
+   Wild Spirits carry on                                            25
+   Whale                                                            30
+Ship’s Doctors                                                     120
+Snakes                                      61, 64, 68, 72, 73, 74, 97
+Spurgeon’s Evangelist                                               32
+Steward, A Negro                                                   115
+St Mary’s (_illus_)                                                 68
+Supper, Too late for                                               123
+Sunday at the Fiji Islands                                         116
+Sydney (_see also_ New South                                        80
+Wales)
+   Ants                                                             90
+   Bail-up                                                          89
+   Bathurst                                                         89
+   Blue Mountains                                                   84
+   Botanical Gardens                                                82
+   Bullock Team on Blue Mountains                                   94
+(_illus_)
+   Bush Hut (_illus_)                                               95
+   Bushrangers                                                      89
+   Cottage, Mount Victoria                                          86
+(_illus_)
+   Education Act, The, Amended                                      92
+   Excise Act                                                       92
+   Falls, The Weatherboard                                          87
+(_illus_)
+   Great Goat Sucker, The                                           90
+   Harbour (_illus_)                                                80
+   Hartley Vale, Descent to                                         88
+(_illus_)
+   Harvest on New Year’s Day                                        95
+   Hotels, Primitive                                                84
+   Laughing Jackass, The                                            90
+(_illus_)
+   Lithgow                                                          88
+   Manufacturing Concern, Largest                                  107
+in Colony
+   Oysters                                                          83
+   — on Trees                                                       84
+   Political Situation                                              92
+   Saw Mills, Steam                                                108
+   Sheep Runs                                                       95
+   Southerly Buster, A                                              83
+Sydney to Melbourne Overland                                   94, 100
+   Albury                                                           98
+   Ants                                                             96
+   Axles, Imported                                                 108
+   Bush, The                                                        96
+   Carriage Furniture, Imported                                    108
+   Drought of Ten Months’                                          113
+duration
+   Endurance of Post-horses                                         98
+   Euroa                                                           100
+   Free Trade at                                                   108
+   Germanton                                                        96
+   Hay, Price of                                                   113
+   Hudson Brothers (Limited)                                       108
+   Industry, A Native, Created                                     108
+   Jerra Jerra                                                      96
+   Kelly’s Exploits at Euroa                                       100
+   Magpies, Large                                                   96
+   Railway Rolling Stock                                           108
+Manufacturers
+   Rain, Downpour of                                               114
+   River Murray                                                     99
+   Royal Mail                                                       96
+   Sheep, Loss of                                                  114
+   Shipping during last thirty                                     109
+years
+   Sighing for Old England                                          97
+   Snakes                                                           97
+   Springs, Imported                                               108
+   Timber, Native Better than                                      108
+Imported
+   Tommy, a youthful Driver                                         98
+   Town, An Up-country (_illus_)                                    98
+   Vineyards                                                        99
+   Wagga Wagga                                                  95, 96
+   Wheels, Imported                                                108
+   Wodonga                                                          99
+Sydney to San Francisco                                       113, 132
+Tasmania                                                            75
+   Farms large in size                                              75
+   Good Roads                                                       75
+   Hawkers                                                          76
+   Mount Wellington (_illus_)                                       76
+   River Derwent                                                    75
+   The Rabbit and the Thistle                                       75
+Teneriffe (_illus_)                                                  7
+Travelling by Rail and Ship                                          1
+compared
+Tree Ferns                                                      52, 56
+Tristan d’Acunha, Island of                                         36
+Tropical Heat                                                    8, 24
+   — Phosphorescence                                                33
+Tropics, In the (_illus_)                                           40
+Turtles                                                             18
+United States                                                      169
+   Americans would Become our                                      176
+Competitors
+   Artisans (American) not Better                                  176
+Off than British
+   — Wages and Holidays                                            174
+   Baggage Arrangements                                            171
+Convenient
+   — Described                                                     171
+   Books Dear                                                      170
+   Cabmen Disgusted                                                171
+   Cadgers, In England such Men                                    176
+would be Called
+   Calicoes Consigned to England                                   173
+   Charges Simply Monstrous                                        170
+   Children without Shoes and                                      177
+Stockings
+   Climate more Trying than that                                   174
+of England
+   — of America Exhausting                                         176
+   Competition Become Exceedingly                                  175
+Fierce
+   Considerably Sold                                               178
+   Corruption among Officials                                      169
+   Cotton Mill Operatives from                                     175
+Germany, etc.
+   Dear America                                                    170
+   Dinner, Charge for a Plain                                      170
+   Engine, The Largest, in the                                     172
+World
+   Exhibition, The Centennial,                                169, 171
+Philadelphia
+   Exports Limited by Protection                                   175
+   Factory Operatives’ Wages                                       174
+Lower than in Lancashire
+   Fair Trade Agitation                                            174
+   Fortunes, Colossal, Built up                                    176
+under Protection
+   Freedom for Tongue and Foot                                     177
+   Free Trade and Wages                                            174
+   — not an Unmixed Blessing                                       176
+   — under, Wider Distribution of                                  176
+Material Comfort
+   Holidays Fewer than in England                                  174
+   Hours of Labour Longer than in                                  176
+England
+   — Longer than in Lancashire                                     174
+   Improvements (so-called) in                                     172
+Manufactures
+   Labour, Honest, Avoided                                         176
+   Liquor Traffic Presents Many                                    177
+Difficulties
+   Living, Cost of, Higher than                                    174
+in England
+   Loafers Numerous                                                176
+   Negro Labour does not Flood                                     177
+the Markets
+   Newspaper Inferior and Dear                                     170
+   New York                                                        169
+   Officials, Corruption among                                     169
+   Over-production                                                 173
+   Philadelphia                                                    171
+   Protection, An Argument for                                     173
+   — and Wages                                                     174
+   — Doomed                                                        175
+   — Wages Steadily Declining                                      176
+under
+   Railway Charges Moderate                                        171
+   Rich, but Honest                                                169
+   Slave Experiences                                               177
+   Something Hot                                                   178
+   Steamboat Charges Moderate                                      171
+   Sunday Traffic Perplexing                                       177
+   Teetotal Lecture, A Regular                                     178
+   Temperance Lecture, The First,                                  178
+they had Heard
+   Tools, Inferior                                                 172
+   Wages Higher, but Balanced by                                   176
+Extra Cost of Living
+   — Higher, not a Full                                            176
+Equivalent
+   — Lower than in 1860                                            174
+   — Steadily Declining under                                      176
+Protection
+   — with Free Trade and                                           174
+Protection
+Victoria (_see also_ Melbourne)                                    101
+   Agricultural Industries not                                     105
+Protected
+   — Heavily Taxed                                                 105
+   Artisans Attracted to New                                       109
+South Wales
+   Books, Can Produce Her Own                                      104
+   Cabby Overrides the Tramway                                     103
+   Country Districts Sparsely                                      101
+Populated
+   Customs, Revenue, Stationary                                    110
+   Depression of Building Trade                                    102
+at Melbourne
+   Dog Subsisting on His Own Tail                                  102
+   Duty on Imports Demanded                                        103
+   Exhibition at Melbourne why                                     102
+Decided on
+   Exports, Increase of                                            110
+   Fiscal Policy, Vicious                                          105
+   Food, Taxation of, not                                          105
+Permitted
+   Free Trade—the _Argus_                                          104
+   — for Raw Materials                                             103
+   Government, Quite Right to                                      106
+Cheat the
+   Immigration, Grants in Aid of                                   105
+   Imported Manufactures Heavily                                   101
+Taxed
+   Imports, Increase of                                            110
+   Laws, Evasion of, by                                            106
+Protectionists
+   Locomotives Costly                                              104
+   — Required                                                      104
+   Manufacturer’s Profit not                                       104
+quite enough
+   Manufacturers Require Larger                                    105
+Field
+   Minerals, Home Demand for,                                      105
+Small
+   — Mainly Exported                                               105
+   Mining Industries not                                           105
+Protected
+   — Machinery Heavily Taxed                                       105
+   Native Industry, In Interests                                   104
+of
+   Natural Resources Neglected                                     102
+   New South Wales, Contrasted                                     107
+with
+   Population Concentrated in                                      101
+Large Towns
+   — Increase of, in Ten Years                                     110
+   — (Manufacturing) Growing                                       102
+Faster than its Customers
+   — not Retained                                                  101
+   — Larger, a Great Want                                          105
+   — Room for Larger                                               105
+   Prices sufficiently High                                        104
+   Printed Books should be more                                    104
+Heavily Taxed
+   Printing Materials, Suggestion                                  104
+to Tax
+   Protected Industries for a                                      103
+Limited Time
+   — Manufacturers not Happy                                       106
+   Protection Demanded by                                          102
+Manufacturers
+   — Effect on Money                                               106
+   — in its most Pronounced Form                                   101
+   Protectionist Newspapers                                        103
+   Railway Stores                                                  105
+   Shipping—Repairing Yards                                        109
+Removed to New South Wales
+   Tramways Opposed by Cabmen                                      103
+   Tariff Revision Committee                                       103
+   Working Classes Jealous of                                      105
+Competition
+   Work, Legislature Expected to                                   102
+Supply
+   Workpeople very Independent                                     107
+Voyage, Author’s First, to                                           5
+Australia
+Waterspout                                                         119
+Water, Thoughts when Under                                         121
+White Squall, The                                                   35
+Yankee Journalist described                                        129
+Yankee’s Inquiry                                                   128
+
+NOTES.
+
+
+{226}  In a former chapter I gave an account of a voyage to Australia by
+way of the Cape of Good Hope.  On a subsequent visit to the Colonies I
+went by the Canal route, returning through Egypt overland.
+
+{259a}  It is understood that the Khedive’s English financial adviser is
+about to take in hand the case of the Fellaheen versus the Usurers.  It
+may aid him to know how a similar state of things in a neighbouring
+country was dealt with about 2000 years ago.
+
+    “Lucullus, Roman general, in his wars against Mithridates, having
+    occupied many cities in Asia which had long been a prey to
+    tax-farmers and usurers, undertook to relieve the people from the
+    extreme misery to which they had been reduced, and set about
+    redeeming the properties given as security to the rapacious
+    money-lenders.  He first greatly reduced the rate of interest;
+    secondly, where the interest exceeded the principal he struck it off.
+    He then ordered that the creditor should receive the fourth part of
+    the debtor’s income, but if in making his claim any creditor had
+    added the interest to the principal, it was utterly disallowed.  By
+    these means, in the, space of four years, all debts were paid, and
+    the lands returned to the rightful owners.”—_Plutarch’s Lives_.
+
+{259b}  Report of Mr. Villiers Stuart, M.P., to Lord Dufferin on “The
+Social and Economical Condition of the People.”
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN
+AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 41639-0.txt or 41639-0.zip *******
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+<title>Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt, by Richard Tangye</title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Reminiscences of Travel in Australia,
+America, and Egypt, by Richard Tangye
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt
+
+
+Author: Richard Tangye
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2012  [eBook #41639]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN
+AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***
+</pre>
+<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/fp.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Frontispiece. Richard Tangye"
+title=
+"Frontispiece. Richard Tangye"
+src="images/fp.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h1>REMINISCENCES<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">OF</span><br />
+TRAVEL<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">IN</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Australia</span>, <span
+class="smcap">America</span>, <span class="smcap">and
+Egypt</span>.</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/title.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Vignette"
+title=
+"Vignette"
+src="images/title.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">BY<br />
+RICHARD TANGYE.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><i>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. C.
+MOUNTFORT</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">London:<br />
+SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON.<br />
+CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">1883.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">(<i>All rights reserved</i>.)</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="pageiv"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. iv</span><span class="GutSmall">PRINTED
+BY</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">WRIGHT,
+DAIN, PEYTON, AND CO.,</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">AT THE
+HERALD PRESS, BIRMINGHAM.</span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. v</span>Having
+made several voyages to Australia, I have often been asked how I
+managed to relieve the monotony of so long a period on the
+water.&nbsp; I have never felt this monotony, simply because on
+each occasion I have set myself something to do.</p>
+<p>In Mr. Trevelyan&rsquo;s &ldquo;Life of Lord Macaulay&rdquo;
+it is stated that when returning from India, that statesman set
+himself the task of mastering the German language, and
+accomplished it during the voyage.&nbsp; I did not attempt
+anything so ambitious, but during my last voyage I occupied the
+time in writing the following pages; and as they were written
+under many difficulties, I feel I may confidently rely upon the
+indulgence of those who may do me the honour of reading them.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">R. T.</p>
+<p><i>Gilbertstone</i>, <i>1883</i>.</p>
+<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+vii</span>CONTENTS.</h2>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/pvii.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Rabbit and the Thistle"
+title=
+"The Rabbit and the Thistle"
+src="images/pvii.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="GutSmall">PAGE.</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> I.&mdash;<i>At
+Sea</i>:&mdash;Early Troubles&mdash;Cabin&rsquo;d, Cribb&rsquo;d,
+Confin&rsquo;d&mdash;Travelling Companions&mdash;&ldquo;Ordered
+Abroad by the Doctor&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;In the Bay o&rsquo;
+Biscay O&rdquo;&mdash;Ship Stewards&mdash;Racing under
+Difficulties&mdash;A Selfish Amusement&mdash;Musical
+Discords&mdash;The Ship&rsquo;s Newspaper&mdash;Our Ship goes too
+Fast&mdash;Why Ship Captains are Tories&mdash;Ixion goes
+Mad&mdash;Burial at Sea&mdash;The Parson &ldquo;quite at
+Sea&rdquo;&mdash;A Congregation Guaranteed&mdash;Look Out for
+Sharks!&mdash;&ldquo;Let the Soup pass, Sir&rdquo;&mdash;The
+&ldquo;Scarlet Lady.&rdquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> II.&mdash;<i>At
+Sea</i>:&mdash;&ldquo;Working off the Dead
+Horse&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Poor Old Man!&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;May
+your Shadow never Grow Less!&rdquo;&mdash;The &ldquo;Blatant
+Beast&rdquo;&mdash;The &ldquo;Generous&rdquo; Gambler&mdash;A
+Fiery Celt&mdash;The &ldquo;Classic&rdquo;
+Dolphin&mdash;&ldquo;Get your Letters Ready&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;A
+Man of Peace now&rdquo;&mdash;Mixing his Degrees&mdash;Good
+enough for the Colonies!&mdash;&ldquo;Now Fridolin was a Pious
+Youth&rdquo;&mdash;A Bootless Errand&mdash;Cross
+Signals&mdash;Tristan d&rsquo;Acunha&mdash;A Parson
+Wanted&mdash;&ldquo;The Rolling Forties&rdquo;&mdash;A Hot
+January Morning.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+viii</span><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> III.&mdash;<i>In
+Victoria</i>:&mdash;The Black Death in
+Melbourne&mdash;Melbourne&mdash;Education&mdash;A Caustic
+Smile&mdash;&ldquo;All Work and no Play&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;A New
+Way to Pay Old Debts&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Happy Land&rdquo; in
+Victoria&mdash;&ldquo;Hush! prohibited&rdquo;&mdash;An Opening
+for &ldquo;Gentlemen&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Hallelujah
+Claim&rdquo;&mdash;The Black Spur&mdash;A
+&ldquo;Soafler&rdquo;&mdash;Comforting the Widow&mdash;Hard
+Fare&mdash;Pioneering&mdash;Lovely Marysville&mdash;The Five
+Deadly Poisons&mdash;Back to Melbourne.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> IV.&mdash;<i>In
+Tasmania</i>:&mdash;Cologn&ndash;ial
+Smells&mdash;Launceston&mdash;A Tonsorial Palace&mdash;Harvest in
+February&mdash;The Land of Snakes&mdash;Der Dichter
+spricht&mdash;&ldquo;The Dangers of the
+Seas&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Sweet Vale of Avoca&rdquo;&mdash;A
+Charming Village&mdash;Where&rsquo;s Falmouth?&mdash;A Lonely
+Burying-place&mdash;A Narrow
+Escape&mdash;Snakes!&mdash;&ldquo;Scotched, but not
+Killed&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Acres many, People
+few&rdquo;&mdash;The Rabbit and the Thistle&mdash;Breaking the
+Pledge&mdash;Hobart the Beautiful&mdash;Jericho to Jerusalem via
+Bagdad&mdash;Farewell, Tasmania.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> V.&mdash;<i>In New
+South Wales</i>:&mdash;Off to Sydney&mdash;&ldquo;What d&rsquo;ye
+think of our Harbour?&rdquo;&mdash;A &ldquo;Southerly
+Buster&rdquo;&mdash;Oysters on Trees&mdash;A rather particular
+Couple&mdash;Mount Victoria&mdash;A Tremendous Leap&mdash;A
+wicked Parrot&mdash;&ldquo;Bail up&rdquo;&mdash;The Laughing
+Jackass&mdash;Let Sleeping Bull-dogs Lie&mdash;An Election in
+Sydney&mdash;Beer and Bible&mdash;Through Wagga-Wagga&mdash;In
+the Bush&mdash;Track-making&mdash;Sighing for Old
+England&mdash;&ldquo;Tommy&rdquo;&mdash;Albury and Wodonga, a
+contrast&mdash;The Bush-rangers.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> VI.&mdash;<i>In
+Australia</i>:&mdash;Victoria, Protection&mdash;The Dog
+subsisting on its own Tail&mdash;Cabby over-rides the
+Tramway&mdash;His Profit was not &ldquo;quite
+enough&rdquo;&mdash;Protection with a
+Vengeance&mdash;&ldquo;Quite right to Cheat the
+Government&rdquo;&mdash;Free Trade, New South Wales&mdash;A
+Genuine &ldquo;Native Industry&rdquo;&mdash;How Population is
+attracted&mdash;A Prosperous Colony&mdash;Demand for Agricultural
+Labourers&mdash;&ldquo;Young Australia.&rdquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+ix</span><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> VII.&mdash;<i>On the
+Pacific</i>:&mdash;Homeward Bound&mdash;Ten Months&rsquo;
+Drought&mdash;Auckland&mdash;Fiji&mdash;Kandavu Harbour&mdash;A
+Fearful Voice&mdash;Sharks and Dark Skins&mdash;Dropping a
+Day&mdash;A Colonial Doctor&mdash;Man
+Overboard&mdash;Honolulu&mdash;A Square Meal&mdash;Dressmaking in
+Honolulu&mdash;A &ldquo;Brownie&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Yes, for a
+Dollar&rdquo;&mdash;A Plague of Centipedes&mdash;A Bilious
+&ldquo;Down-Easter&rdquo;&mdash;Jefferson Brick,
+Junior&mdash;&ldquo;Mister&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;A Personal
+Favour!&rdquo;&mdash;Through &ldquo;The Golden
+Gate&rdquo;&mdash;Earning a Cent anyway.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> VIII.&mdash;<i>In
+America</i>:&mdash;San Francisco&mdash;The Palace
+Hotel&mdash;Chinese Washermen&mdash;The National
+Habit&mdash;Flats and Sharps&mdash;Qualifications for a State
+Governor&mdash;John Chinaman in California&mdash;The Missing
+Link&mdash;Little Min-ne, a Chinese Bride&mdash;Am claimed as a
+Chinaman&mdash;Pacific Sea-Lions&mdash;The last of
+&ldquo;Mister&rdquo;&mdash;Across America&mdash;A Magnificent
+Country&mdash;The Noble Red Man&mdash;A Long Arm and Quick
+Eye&mdash;John Bright&mdash;A Tremendous Crash&mdash;The
+Trapper&rsquo;s Story&mdash;How Taurus &ldquo;Meets the
+Train&rdquo;&mdash;The Alkali Plains&mdash;Salt Lake
+City&mdash;&ldquo;I guess I&rsquo;ll take your
+Gold&rdquo;&mdash;Rock Groups&mdash;&ldquo;No, Sah!&rdquo; said
+Sambo.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> IX.&mdash;<i>In
+America</i>:&mdash;&ldquo;Eat and be
+satisfied&rdquo;&mdash;Chicago&mdash;Niagara&mdash;Ruthless
+Desecration&mdash;&ldquo;He must raise his
+Salary&rdquo;&mdash;The &ldquo;American Language&rdquo;&mdash;The
+Hudson&mdash;The Celestial Harmonies&mdash;A Dealer in
+Justice&mdash;&ldquo;Rich, but
+Honest&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Dear&rdquo; America&mdash;Baggage
+Arrangements&mdash;Philadelphia&mdash;The Centennial
+Exhibition&mdash;An Argument for Protection&mdash;Artisans&rsquo;
+Wages and Holidays&mdash;Protection
+doomed&mdash;Cadgers&mdash;Freedom, for Tongue and
+Foot&mdash;Something hot!</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span><span
+class="smcap">Chapter</span> X.&mdash;<i>In
+Egypt</i>:&mdash;Suez&mdash;Hassan&mdash;Donkeys for
+Nine&mdash;The Languishing
+Nobleman&mdash;Backsheesh&mdash;Painting the Lily&mdash;Forced
+Labour, a painful Sight&mdash;Agriculture <i>&agrave; la</i>
+Adam&mdash;School Interrupted&mdash;In the Bazaars&mdash;The
+Jewellers&mdash;A Bridal Party&mdash;Sultan Hassan&mdash;Familiar
+Devils&mdash;Up the Great Pyramid&mdash;The Heaven-sent
+Stick&mdash;A Wash and a Shave&mdash;To Sakkara&mdash;A Great
+City&mdash;At Sakkara&mdash;Tomb of the Sacred Bulls&mdash;The
+Tomb of a High Priest&mdash;A Graphic Biograph&mdash;The Eternal
+Backsheesh&mdash;A Camelcade.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> XI.&mdash;<i>In
+Egypt</i>:&mdash;Pious Orgies&mdash;Howlers and
+Dancers&mdash;Miss Whateley&rsquo;s Schools&mdash;&ldquo;She only
+steals the Eggs now!&rdquo;&mdash;In Shubra Avenue&mdash;A Useful
+Animal&mdash;A Morning Ride&mdash;Sultan Selim&mdash;&ldquo;Sir,
+I am a Christian&rdquo;&mdash;A Holy Fakir&mdash;A Statue four
+thousand years old&mdash;Irrigation&mdash;Venerable
+Orphans&mdash;Home to Vote.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> XII.&mdash;<i>In
+Egypt</i>;&mdash;Port
+Said&mdash;Hawkers&mdash;Bohemiennes&mdash;Marines&mdash;The last
+Unmarried Lady&mdash;The Harbour&mdash;A discerning young
+Arab&mdash;The Red Ribbon Army&mdash;&ldquo;Once a Member, always
+a Member&rdquo;&mdash;The Spider&mdash;&ldquo;One must be
+civ-il!&rdquo;&mdash;Our Blue Jackets.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page226">226</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> XIII.&mdash;<i>The Suez
+Canal</i>:&mdash;Arabi in Exile&mdash;A &rsquo;cute
+Governor&mdash;The French outwitted&mdash;&ldquo;Thomas Cook and
+Son&rdquo;&mdash;A Black-Guard&mdash;Tel-el-Kebir&mdash;The Land
+of Goshen&mdash;The Suez Canal&mdash;Lord
+Palmerston&mdash;Immense Traffic&mdash;Lake
+Timsah&mdash;Predictions&mdash;Red Tape&mdash;Absurd
+Restrictions&mdash;Lesseps&rsquo; Position&mdash;A
+Suggestion&mdash;The Dual Control&mdash;Arabi Bey&mdash;Mutinous
+Conduct&mdash;Irregular Court-Martial&mdash;How Arabi recruited
+his Army&mdash;&ldquo;L&rsquo;etat c&rsquo;est moi.&rdquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page238">238</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xi</span><span class="smcap">Chapter</span>
+XIV.&mdash;<i>Alexandria</i>:&mdash;Ras-el-Tin&mdash;The
+Forts&mdash;A Courageous Merchant&mdash;Alexandria in
+Ruins&mdash;Alexandria not
+Bombarded&mdash;Anglo-Indians&mdash;Brindisi&mdash;Quarantine.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page260">260</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>INDEX.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page269">269</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xiii</span>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Portrait</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">Frontispiece</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Vignette</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">Title</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Rabbit and Thistle</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pagevii">vii</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Terra Firma</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Teneriffe</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Sports</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Captain</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ascension</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Crossing the Line.&nbsp; Why,
+don&rsquo;t you see it?</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Baby Hippopotamus at
+Play</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Burying the Dead Horse</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Classic Dolphin</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Colonial Parson</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">In the Tropics</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Gold Mine</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Big Tree</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">On the Black Spur</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Lyre Bird</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Doctor Contemplates&mdash;a
+Poem</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Avoca</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Mary&rsquo;s</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Falmouth Hotel</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Burial Place</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Summit of Mount Wellington</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">View in Hobart Gardens</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Our Waiter</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Sydney Harbour</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Cottage at Mount Victoria</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Weatherboard Falls</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Descent to Hartley Vale</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Laughing Jackass</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Author Sketching</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Bullock-Team</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Bush Hut</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">An Up-country Town</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pagexiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xiv</span><span class="smcap">The Platypus</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Fijian</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The King&rsquo;s Sister</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Chinaman</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Little Min-ne</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Seal Rocks, San Francisco</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The last of
+&ldquo;Mister&rdquo;</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Eucalyptus</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Salt Lake</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Monument Rock</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Devil&rsquo;s Slide</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Under the Falls, Niagara</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Pallisades, Hudson
+River</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">John Scales, Justice of the
+Peace</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page168">168</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Dragoman</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Donkey Boy</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The &ldquo;Orient&rdquo;</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Schoolmaster
+&ldquo;abroad&rdquo;</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page189">189</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A &ldquo;Peep&rdquo;</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">&ldquo;Bery Cheap,
+Sah!&rdquo;</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Mosque of Sultan Hassan</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page193">193</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ascending the Great Pyramid</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page197">197</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">View on the Nile</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page198">198</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Sphinx</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page199">199</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Wash and a Shave</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Serapeum, Sakkara</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page204">204</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Bas-relief, Tomb of Tih</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Camelcade</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page208">208</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Prayers in the Desert</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Runner, or Sais</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">In Shubra Avenue</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page214">214</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Water Carriers</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Tombs of the Khalifs</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Street in B&ucirc;lak</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page219">219</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Holy Fakir</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Wrecked Ship of the
+Desert</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page223">223</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Au Revoir!</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page225">225</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">In the Suez Canal</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page226">226</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Feather Merchant</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page227">227</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Cetewayo Disguised as a
+Gentleman</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page236">236</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Adenese Women</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page240">240</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Familiar Face</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page261">261</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The End</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page268">268</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>CHAPTER
+I.</h2>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p1.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Terra Firma"
+title=
+"Terra Firma"
+src="images/p1.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>It is commonly supposed by landsmen that the perils of ocean
+travelling are much greater than those encountered upon
+land.&nbsp; For my own part, I believe that, once on the open
+sea, there is no pleasanter or safer mode of locomotion than is
+to be found in a well-appointed sailing ship or steamer.&nbsp; I
+certainly was in much greater danger of being drowned while
+travelling on the railway between Bristol and Plymouth upon one
+occasion than I have ever known myself to be while on board ship.
+The autumn had been exceedingly wet, and the low-lying districts
+in Somersetshire had become flooded, causing the railway to be
+completely submerged for a distance of about three miles.&nbsp;
+The water reached to the floors of the railway carriages, while
+the locomotive in its progress made a great wave in front of <a
+name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>the
+train.&nbsp; The wheels of the locomotive were 8ft. 10in. in
+height, and the fire-box was 6ft. above the ground.&nbsp; Boats
+accompanied the train on either side during its passage through
+the water.&nbsp; Certainly I have never felt in so much danger in
+the 60,000 miles of ocean travelling which I have had since
+then.&nbsp; Not that there are no dangers to be met with on the
+water, as I found to my alarm before I had fairly commenced my
+last voyage.</p>
+<p>Our vessel lay three miles off the Hoe, at Plymouth, and we
+had engaged a large sailing boat to take us on board.&nbsp; When
+we had got half way to the ship, and had lost the shelter of the
+land, a fierce squall struck the sail and turned the boat over on
+its side, throwing us into a confused heap on its bottom.&nbsp;
+The boatman tried to lower the sail, but having tied it in a fast
+knot he could not do so, and had no means of cutting the
+rope.&nbsp; The rain came down pitilessly all the time, and the
+waves dashed over us, drenching us to the skin, darkness coming
+on in the meantime.&nbsp; For a few moments we almost gave
+ourselves up as lost, but fortunately the violence of the wind
+lessened, the boat righted itself, and we got alongside our ship,
+but were unable in the darkness and the rush of the water and the
+noise of the wind and rain to make ourselves heard.&nbsp; My
+companion and I had to climb up the rope-ladder attached to the
+ship, and to scramble over its side as best we could, in the
+confusion altogether forgetting to take leave of our friends who
+were in the boat below, and who were lost to sight the instant we
+got on to the deck.</p>
+<p>On entering the saloon the contrast was very great.&nbsp; The
+big ship riding at anchor was as steady as the land <a
+name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>we had just
+left.&nbsp; The saloon was brilliantly lighted; and the
+passengers who had joined the ship at Gravesend were sitting
+round the table engaged in various occupations; some were reading
+or writing, while others were playing at whist, or were engaged
+in conversation.&nbsp; Being new arrivals, there was considerable
+curiosity to see which cabin we should call our own.</p>
+<p>To a man taking his first voyage the phrase
+&ldquo;cabin&rsquo;d, cribb&rsquo;d, confin&rsquo;d&rdquo; is at
+once understood as he surveys the cabin, a portion of which is to
+be his home for a month or two.&nbsp; The first feeling is that
+it will be impossible to bestow all his belongings in the limited
+space at his disposal, but before he has been long on board
+things settle down into their places, and he almost begins to
+wonder what he shall do with all the room.</p>
+<p>The first night on board ship is generally one of great
+confusion.&nbsp; The passengers seem to be in everybody&rsquo;s
+way; but immediately after leaving port the baggage is stowed
+away, the purser allots the seats at table, and everything goes
+on with the greatest regularity.</p>
+<p>The passengers on board one of the great Australian ships form
+a perfect epitome of the great world ashore.&nbsp; The line of
+division is sharply drawn between the various sets or
+cliques.&nbsp; Many never condescend to notice numbers of their
+fellow-passengers during the whole voyage; but for the most part
+fraternisation becomes general after the first fortnight has
+passed.</p>
+<p>A three months&rsquo; voyage often enables a man to form a
+juster appreciation of the character of his fellow-passengers
+than many years&rsquo; residence in the same <a
+name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span>neighbourhood
+would do on shore; hence it often happens that life-friendships
+of the warmest kind are formed on board ship.&nbsp; On steamers
+bound for the Colonies representatives of almost every class are
+to be found.&nbsp; Judges returning to their duties after a
+holiday all too short; colonial statesmen with sufficient time on
+their hands to allow of their formulating a policy to meet every
+conceivable combination among their parliamentary opponents; and
+squatters and merchants returning to the Colonies to look after
+their property or their business.&nbsp; These men are generally
+very much preoccupied, and their only anxiety appears to be to
+get as speedily as possible to their destination.</p>
+<p>Another class is composed of clergymen and professional men
+taking a holiday, and generally speaking with every sign of great
+enjoyment; while two other classes are largely
+represented&mdash;viz., invalids in search of health, and young
+ne&rsquo;er-do-wells sent to the Colonies under the mistaken idea
+of their being more likely to reform in a new country.&nbsp; The
+latter class is mainly composed of young fellows who have never
+been brought up to any trade or calling at home, and who, with
+their friends, seem to think that the Colonies are a sort of
+&ldquo;Tom Tiddler&rsquo;s ground,&rdquo; where they can
+&ldquo;pick up gold and silver.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>These youths are sent out by their friends as a last chance,
+under what is known as the &ldquo;private convict system,&rdquo;
+and I believe that a very small proportion of them ever take a
+position of respectability after landing in the Colonies.&nbsp;
+Nor is it to be wondered at, for on the principle of &ldquo;birds
+of a feather,&rdquo; etc., these young men get together on the
+outward voyage, and all their <a name="page5"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 5</span>previous vices become much intensified
+by the association.&nbsp; On the other hand, many young men of
+good character, going out to the Colonies in search of
+employment, and showing by their conduct during the voyage that
+they are self-respecting, and consequently trustworthy, have
+secured good appointments from colonial merchants before leaving
+the ship.</p>
+<p>Those who take the voyage on account of impaired health mainly
+consist of men suffering from overwork, and invalids more or less
+affected with pulmonary disease.&nbsp; In the case of the former
+a long voyage is the surest remedy; and for those in the earliest
+stage of consumption it is generally found to be efficacious; but
+it would be impossible to devise a more cruel fate for such as
+are thoroughly affected by that fell disease than to send them
+out on a long voyage.&nbsp; The conditions are all against them;
+the draught in the saloon is always great, and there is a total
+absence of those little comforts and delicacies which consumptive
+patients so greatly need, and the lack of which is so sorely
+felt.&nbsp; Doctors who have never made a voyage little think to
+what a miserable fate they are dooming their consumptive patients
+when they order them to take a sea voyage.&nbsp; In five cases
+out of six these patients are sent out too late, and the voyage
+only hastens their inevitable end, while, if they had only been
+sent in the earliest stages of the disease, they would almost
+certainly have been restored.</p>
+<p>I started on my first Australian voyage on a lovely day in the
+late autumn.&nbsp; The sun was shining brilliantly, and as there
+was very little wind we fondly hoped we should cross the Bay of
+Biscay without having to go <a name="page6"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 6</span>through the disagreeable experiences
+usually met with there; but our hopes were rudely dispelled when,
+after two days, having fairly got into the bay, we found a strong
+&ldquo;nor&rsquo;-wester&rdquo; blowing, with heavy seas and
+torrents of rain.</p>
+<p>Our ship was a duplicate of the ill-fated
+&ldquo;London,&rdquo; and the officers comforted us with the
+information that we were just on the spot where she had gone down
+a few years before.</p>
+<p>The wind and waves had been increasing in force during the
+day; but at four o&rsquo;clock, just as we were sitting down to
+dinner, a heavy sea burst &rsquo;tween decks with a great uproar,
+breaking through the doors leading from the main-deck to the
+saloon, swamping the nearest cabins, and completely scattering
+the dinner, dishes and all.</p>
+<p>The stewards had a busy time of it for the next two hours in
+mopping and baling the water out, and in preparing another
+dinner.&nbsp; Many of us, however, preferred retiring to our
+berths, the weather in the meantime getting decidedly
+worse.&nbsp; Presently another sea was shipped, deluging our
+cabin, amongst others, and leaving us in perfect darkness; while
+the noise of the sailors tramping overhead, the smashing of
+crockery, and the falling of blocks and ropes, the shouts of the
+officers, and the continual roar of the storm, effectually
+banished sleep for the night.&nbsp; I gained, however, one
+valuable piece of information, for as a result of the storm I
+learned a certain cure for sea-sickness!&nbsp; I had been quite
+ill before the final burst, but the excitement from this cured me
+instantly.</p>
+<p><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>During
+the night we travelled out of the storm into smoother water, and
+it was curious to note the effect of this improved state of
+affairs, and of the bright sunshine, in bringing fresh faces on
+deck.</p>
+<p>The life of a steward on board one of these ships is not an
+enviable one.&nbsp; He has to be up at work at four
+o&rsquo;clock, washing and scrubbing the saloon; to wait at table
+four times a day; to make the beds, and attend to the cabins; and
+to be generally useful amongst the passengers, rarely finishing
+before ten o&rsquo;clock at night.&nbsp; Our steward was a very
+handy fellow.&nbsp; He informed me he had a brother in New
+Zealand in practice as a doctor, who wanted him to settle there,
+but he preferred &ldquo;a life on the ocean wave.&rdquo;&nbsp; He
+strongly recommended us to bathe frequently in salt water, saying
+it &ldquo;was good for the spin-ial orgins!&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p7.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Teneriffe (from a sketch by J. Willis)"
+title=
+"Teneriffe (from a sketch by J. Willis)"
+src="images/p7.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Eight days after leaving Plymouth we passed the Canary
+Islands, steaming between Teneriffe and Gomera.&nbsp; The weather
+was delightful, and we had a fine view of <a
+name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>the famous
+Peak, which rises apparently straight out of the sea to a height
+of 12,000 feet.&nbsp; These islands form a province of Spain, and
+are volcanic in their origin.&nbsp; The last eruption was in
+1824.&nbsp; The vegetable productions of the islands are very
+varied.&nbsp; Palms and tropical plants grow near the sea; higher
+up cereals are grown; above, laurels; and still higher, pines and
+the white broom.&nbsp; The islands also produce oranges, lemons,
+dates, sugar-cane, cotton, and silk.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p8.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The &ldquo;Sports&rdquo; (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)"
+title=
+"The &ldquo;Sports&rdquo; (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)"
+src="images/p8.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Soon after passing the Canaries the Tropics are entered; and
+some of us begin to feel, for the first time, what heat really
+is.&nbsp; Awnings are fixed, and preparations are made for
+various kinds of amusements, amongst which the most popular are
+quoits, a run with the hounds, jumping in sacks by moonlight,
+racing in sacks, etc.</p>
+<p><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>The game
+of quoits is much in favour with those who can play it, but it is
+a most selfish affair, for half-a-dozen men monopolise the whole
+of one side of the deck&mdash;and that the best or upper
+side&mdash;and, beginning at ten in the morning, continue till
+the dinner hour.</p>
+<p>These are the day amusements.&nbsp; In the evenings there are
+concerts, recitations, and occasionally theatrical
+performances.&nbsp; Some passengers are of a studious turn, and
+divide their time between reading, writing, and walking, while
+others&mdash;notably young men from the Colonies&mdash;recline at
+ease during the day and become lively at night, often
+perambulating the decks with heavy heels till the small hours of
+the morning, to the great discomfort of those sleeping below.</p>
+<p>Our second-class fellow-passengers commenced the concert
+season by giving a very amusing entertainment in their
+saloon.&nbsp; The first piece on the programme was an
+&ldquo;overture by the band&rdquo;&mdash;the band being
+represented by a single concertina.&nbsp; The chairman, a
+jolly-looking old tar, tried three pieces, and broke down in
+amidst roars of laughter and calls for the chorus.&nbsp; An
+&ldquo;ancient buffer&rdquo; sang &ldquo;My Pretty Jane,&rdquo;
+and a few other sentimental things, with looks of fond
+affection.&nbsp; Then came a solo by &ldquo;Bones,&rdquo; and
+another sailor gave a song which recounted his many
+ailments.&nbsp; He said he had had &ldquo;brownchitis,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;scarlatina,&rdquo; &ldquo;concertina,&rdquo; and
+&ldquo;tightness in the chest.&rdquo;&nbsp; Then a melancholy
+youth ground out something about his love for a &ldquo;Little
+brown jug,&rdquo; calling frequently for a chorus, the whole
+ending with &ldquo;God save the Queen.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We had other concerts during the voyage, and it was noticeable
+that the peculiarity which is said to attend <a
+name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>amateur
+performances on land was not absent with us, for our concerts
+were usually productive of anything but harmony&mdash;at any rate
+amongst the singers.&nbsp; Those who were first invited to sing
+usually had colds, and those who were free from colds often
+declined because they were not invited first.&nbsp; Even the
+singing of hymns at the evening service was more than once made
+the occasion of heated discussion.</p>
+<p>Another mode of occupying leisure hours on board ship as soon
+as the passengers have fairly settled down for the voyage is to
+start a newspaper.&nbsp; A few of the passengers meet and choose
+an editor, and the general public are invited to send
+contributions to him.&nbsp; At the outset promises of help are
+very abundant, but, as a matter of fact, the work has to be done
+by a very few persons.&nbsp; The paper appears weekly, in
+manuscript, and is usually read aloud by the editor after dinner
+on the day of issue.</p>
+<p>Sometimes it is agreed to have the paper printed on reaching
+the Colony, and when that is determined upon one or two
+individuals undertake the duty of passing it through the press,
+and of forwarding it to the various subscribers.&nbsp; As a rule
+the same persons rarely undertake the duty twice, for it is a
+very arduous and oft-times thankless task.</p>
+<p>Some of the more cautious subscribers object to paying in
+advance, or require guarantees for due delivery and for the
+proper performance of the work.&nbsp; On one occasion one of my
+companions undertook the work of preparing the paper for the
+press, and correcting the proofs; it took him nearly three weeks
+to do so, and I am sure he will never undertake a similar
+task.&nbsp; The <a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+11</span>colonial printer gave him a great deal of trouble,
+persisting in ignoring his corrections, and in &ldquo;improving
+the text&rdquo; by altering it according to his own ideas.&nbsp;
+One peculiarity of amateur authorship came out into strong relief
+in the printing of this paper&mdash;the number of quotations and
+of inverted commas was so great that our printer&rsquo;s stock
+was quite exhausted, and he had to send all round the city to
+borrow a sufficient supply.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p11.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Captain (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)"
+title=
+"The Captain (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)"
+src="images/p11.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>In a three months&rsquo; voyage the advantage of having a
+genial captain is obvious, and in this respect we were <a
+name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>most
+fortunate, for it was impossible for anyone to be kinder or more
+considerate.&nbsp; Our captain entered heartily into all our
+amusements and schemes for the relief of the monotony of the
+voyage, and was ably seconded in his efforts by his amiable
+wife.</p>
+<p>Sometimes it did appear to some of the more eager and
+impatient of the passengers that the captain was fonder of being
+on the water than they were; for he had a great regard for his
+sails, and whenever the wind developed unusual energy had no
+hesitation in diminishing the rate of our progress by shortening
+sail.&nbsp; The first officer, perhaps with the rashness of
+youth, would crowd all sail during his watch before breakfast,
+but when the captain made his appearance an order to &ldquo;Take
+in those sails&rdquo; would be promptly addressed to the
+chief.</p>
+<p>Our captain had made the voyage more than twenty times, and
+had very carefully studied and noted the meteorological signs in
+various latitudes.&nbsp; The sky seemed like a book to him, and
+often when we could see no indications of change&mdash;and it was
+wonderful how quickly changes sometimes came&mdash;he would
+rapidly make his arrangements, and was rarely caught by the most
+sudden of tropical squalls.&nbsp; Our first experience of one of
+these squalls was when we were fifty miles to the south of
+Madeira.&nbsp; The weather had been fine all day, but about five
+o&rsquo;clock we were aroused by great activity on the part of
+the officers and crew, who acted as though they expected to be
+boarded by pirates.&nbsp; The sky had become cloudy, and we were
+told that a squall was expected.&nbsp; The captain stood at the
+stern and gave his orders to the first officer in a <a
+name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>quiet manner,
+while the latter shouted them to the sailors, who at once began
+to climb and pull at the ropes, all the while singing their sea
+songs.&nbsp; In the meantime the wind had come up, and was
+blowing like a hurricane through the rigging, and then the rain
+came down in torrents.&nbsp; While this was going on we saw a
+ship at a little distance, also overtaken by the squall, and it
+was wonderful to see how soon they took in her sails&mdash;it was
+done in a twinkling.&nbsp; Our vessel rolled and pitched heavily,
+and everything looked wet and wretched; but the squall passed off
+almost as quickly as it came, and the sun shone out, and
+everything looked smiling again.&nbsp; Unfortunately, during the
+storm the wind changed right ahead.</p>
+<p>Our captain was a Tory, as most long-voyage captains
+are.&nbsp; I have often thought it strange that it should be so,
+seeing that the whole purpose of a captain&rsquo;s life is to
+make progress on his voyage; but it would appear that, although
+he is always progressing, he invariably comes back to his
+starting point.</p>
+<p>At dinner one day, happening to say I was from Birmingham, the
+captain said jocularly, &ldquo;Oh, that&rsquo;s where all the
+shams come from!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Now the captain hails from London, but his wife is an Irish
+lady, so I answered, &ldquo;No, captain, the things known as
+Brummagem shams are like the Irish bulls, and are, for the most
+part, manufactured in London.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;That&rsquo;s so,&rdquo; said the captain&rsquo;s wife;
+&ldquo;well done, Mr. Tangye,&rdquo; and the captain
+subsided.</p>
+<p>Truly life on shipboard is a curious medley.&nbsp; Here is a
+picture of what went on one night.&nbsp; In the lower tier of
+cabins lies a young man in the last stage of <a
+name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>consumption,
+and almost in the agonies of death; in a cabin just above him is
+another suffering from scarlet fever; within a few feet of these
+are mothers nursing their babies.&nbsp; Sitting in a corner of
+the saloon is another young man, also in the final stage of
+consumption, away from all his friends, and without a single
+acquaintance on board; in front of him are two card parties, one
+of them playing for money, and looking as eager about it as
+though dear life depended on success.</p>
+<p>While all this is going on below, what might have been a
+tragedy is being enacted on deck, for the quartermaster went
+suddenly mad while standing at the wheel.&nbsp; The captain had
+just given him some instructions, but he did not seem to take
+kindly to them, and was inclined to be disputatious.&nbsp;
+Presently he said, with an oath, &ldquo;I won&rsquo;t argue with
+you to-night, captain.&rdquo;&nbsp; The captain then ordered
+another man to take the wheel, when the poor fellow ran along the
+deck and fell forward, kicking vigorously.&nbsp; The captain,
+thinking the man was in a fit, summoned the doctor, who, after
+waiting till the patient became quieter, tried to persuade him to
+go forward with him.&nbsp; The man, however, suddenly sprang up
+and aimed a tremendous blow at the poor little doctor, who,
+fortunately, being cunning of fence, managed to evade it.&nbsp;
+He then chased the doctor around the deck, and would doubtless
+have thrown him overboard if he could have caught him.&nbsp; The
+first officer then came to the rescue and seized the lunatic,
+but, although a very strong man, the doctor and he were unable to
+hold him, and ultimately it took six men to carry him
+forward.&nbsp; At last they managed to secure him, as they
+thought, but in a very short time <a name="page15"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 15</span>the sailors came rushing pell-mell on
+to the poop-deck, the maniac having got loose and begun to chase
+them with a long fork.&nbsp; It was some time before they could
+again secure him, but finally they succeeded, and put him into a
+strait-jacket.</p>
+<p>In the morning the first officer went to see the poor fellow,
+who asked him to shake hands, but the officer declined.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Well, sir,&rdquo; said the man, &ldquo;I saved all your
+lives last night, for if I hadn&rsquo;t put the ship about she
+would have been right into that other ship on the starboard
+bow!&rdquo;&nbsp; Of course this was entirely a delusion, for
+there had been no ship there.</p>
+<p>Soon after entering the Tropics on one of my voyages, one of
+the second-class passengers was taken ill, and died in a few
+hours; he had been suffering from an attack of <i>delirium
+tremens</i>.&nbsp; The funeral was arranged to take place at 7.30
+on the following morning, and at the appointed time the body,
+which had been sewn up in sail-cloth, was placed on trestles on
+the main deck, opposite a port-hole, the &ldquo;Union Jack&rdquo;
+covering it.&nbsp; Presently the bell began to toll, while the
+clergyman and captain read the service for the dead, and when the
+latter came to the passage &ldquo;We therefore commit his body to
+the deep,&rdquo; he looked at the sailors, who at once loosed the
+corpse, which, being weighted with iron, shot through the open
+port-hole into the water with a great splash.&nbsp; During the
+ceremony the engines were stopped.</p>
+<p>The day following was Sunday, and it being a glorious day,
+with a perfectly smooth sea, it was arranged for the service to
+be held on deck, which was covered with an awning.&nbsp; One of
+the passengers had <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+16</span>brought a set of hand-bells with him, and he and some
+others rang out a peal before the service, the effect being
+curious.</p>
+<p>The water was of a beautiful purple colour, and the sky a deep
+blue, and some large white birds were lazily flying around the
+ship.&nbsp; Under these unusual circumstances, and with the
+solemn incident of the burial of the poor drunkard on the
+previous day, one would have thought that even the dullest
+minister would have felt a thrill of inspiration.&nbsp; Judge,
+then, of our surprise when the parson commenced talking to us
+about geology!&nbsp; Nor did he make the slightest reference to
+the scene around him during the whole sermon.&nbsp; He told us,
+incidentally, that miners had not yet succeeded in getting more
+than twelve miles deep!&nbsp; During the afternoon I ventured to
+ask him where the mine was situated of which he had spoken, as,
+happening to know something about mining operations, I was
+anxious to know how the miners managed to pump the water from a
+depth of twelve miles.&nbsp; He answered testily, &ldquo;I was
+not speaking of any particular mine.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>On one occasion a discussion arose as to the best means to be
+adopted to ensure the attendance of the working classes at
+church.&nbsp; The reverend gentleman told us that for his part he
+had no difficulty in getting people to attend his
+church&mdash;all classes and conditions of people came to hear
+him, and yet he took no special means to secure their
+attendance.&nbsp; Not being impressed with the parson&rsquo;s
+eloquence, we were at a loss to understand how it was that he was
+so successful, when far abler and more attractive men failed so
+conspicuously; but he vouchsafed no explanation.&nbsp; On
+arriving in the <a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+17</span>Colony the explanation was forthcoming, for I found that
+our reverend friend was chaplain to a cemetery!</p>
+<p>On another occasion the old gentleman preached a sermon in
+which he related an anecdote of a soldier who was mortally
+wounded on the field of Waterloo.&nbsp; One of the chaplains
+found the poor fellow, who showed him a Bible which he had always
+carried in his pocket, it having been given him by his mother on
+leaving home.&nbsp; &ldquo;Doubtless,&rdquo; said the clergyman,
+&ldquo;this young man, having served his country to the death,
+went straight to glory.&rdquo;&nbsp; Curiously enough, in the
+lesson for that day occurred the verse, &ldquo;Love your
+enemies,&rdquo; etc., so during the day I asked him how he
+reconciled the verse with the idea of the red-handed soldier
+going straight to glory?&nbsp; The parson (who was an Irishman)
+replied, &ldquo;Sure, the soldier was heaping <i>fire</i> on his
+enemy&rsquo;s head!&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p17.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Ascension (from a sketch by J. Willis)"
+title=
+"Ascension (from a sketch by J. Willis)"
+src="images/p17.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>In about eighteen days after leaving Plymouth we reached the
+island of Ascension, whose fine group of volcanic peaks formed a
+magnificent object from our steamer.&nbsp; The island is used as
+a sanatorium for <a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+18</span>the British Colonies on the west coast of Africa.&nbsp;
+It has an area of about thirty-five square miles, and produces an
+abundance of turtles, pheasants, peafowl, and eggs, while
+tomatoes, castor-oil plants, and pepper, are indigenous.</p>
+<p>The first officer went ashore with a boat to take our letters,
+and to bring back some turtles for use during the voyage.&nbsp;
+Immediately the boat left the ship we saw a big shark following
+close in its wake, the brute&rsquo;s fin showing above the water
+until the landing-stage was reached.&nbsp; This gave us some
+concern, as sharks are very bold at times, and have been known to
+snap at a hand hanging over the side of a boat.&nbsp; We saw
+large numbers about the ship during our stay, and one of the
+passengers shot several of them with a rifle.&nbsp; One was quite
+near to the ship when shot, and on feeling the bullet leaped
+right out of the water, and was instantly attacked and doubtless
+devoured by its brethren on falling back into the sea.&nbsp; We
+also put out a hook baited with pork, and observed several of the
+sharks make attempts upon it; but they appeared to be very
+clumsy, for they repeatedly missed it.&nbsp; Presently, however,
+one fellow got the hook firmly into his mouth, and we hauled him
+in over the stern on to the poop.&nbsp; He dashed about madly,
+looked very vicious, and reared right up on end, when the sailors
+barbarously hacked his tail off.&nbsp; Soon he was hauled on to
+the main-deck and quickly despatched, his teeth being on sale at
+a shilling each in less than an hour afterwards.&nbsp; Three
+turtles were brought on board &ldquo;all alive,&rdquo; and placed
+on their backs on the deck until they were required by the
+cook.&nbsp; They each measured 5ft.6in. long by 3ft. wide, and
+6ft.8in. in girth, and each weighed about 330 lbs.</p>
+<p><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>One day
+we had very rough weather, with an occasional sea dashing over
+the deck, along which the dinner was brought from the
+kitchen.&nbsp; My steward quietly told me to take none of the
+turtle soup, and I obeyed.&nbsp; After dinner I asked him why he
+advised me to let the soup pass?&nbsp; He said that as they were
+coming along the deck a sea came over and washed half the soup
+out of the tureen, decidedly mixing what was left!&nbsp; Those
+who partook of the soup remarked that the cook had put rather too
+much salt to it; but they libelled that useful functionary.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p19.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Crossing the &ldquo;Line&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Why! don&rsquo;t
+you see it?&rdquo;"
+title=
+"Crossing the &ldquo;Line&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Why! don&rsquo;t
+you see it?&rdquo;"
+src="images/p19.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>One of our fellow-passengers was an old German lady, who was
+returning from a visit to her fatherland.&nbsp; She was very
+lively, and informed us she had not told her husband she was
+returning by this ship, intending, as she said, &ldquo;to catch
+him on de hop,&rdquo; but she did not know that the
+passengers&rsquo; names were all sent on by the mail, which <a
+name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>went faster
+than we did; so when we got to the port her husband,
+&ldquo;Shemmy&rdquo; (Jemmy), as she called him, had come out
+with the pilot, and was very near catching her on &ldquo;de
+hop,&rdquo; for she was a very lively old lady.&nbsp; One
+morning, while we were in the Tropics, upon getting on deck, we
+found the old lady dressed from head to foot in scarlet!&nbsp; It
+was too much, with the thermometer at 101&deg; in the shade, so a
+deputation waited upon her and begged her to shade her glory, for
+it was too overpowering.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page21"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 21</span>
+<a href="images/p21.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The &ldquo;Baby Hippopotamus&rdquo; at Play"
+title=
+"The &ldquo;Baby Hippopotamus&rdquo; at Play"
+src="images/p21.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+<p>After being a month at sea the sailors performed the ceremony
+called &ldquo;Burying the Dead Horse,&rdquo; the explanation of
+which is this: Before leaving port seamen are paid a month in
+advance, so as to enable them to leave some money with their
+wives, or to buy a new kit, etc., and having spent the money they
+consider the first month goes for nothing, and so call it
+&ldquo;Working off the Dead Horse.&rdquo;&nbsp; The crew dress up
+a figure to represent a horse; its body is made out of a barrel,
+its extremities of hay or straw covered with canvas, the mane and
+tail of hemp, the eyes of two ginger beer bottles, sometimes
+filled with phosphorus.&nbsp; When complete the noble steed is
+put on a box, covered with a rug, and on the evening of the last
+day of the month a <a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+22</span>man gets on to his back, and is drawn all round the ship
+by his shipmates, to the chanting of the following
+doggerel:&mdash;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p22.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Music to Burying the Dead Horse"
+title=
+"Music to Burying the Dead Horse"
+src="images/p22.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">BURYING THE DEAD
+HORSE.</p>
+<p>You have come a long long way,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And we say so, for we know so.<br />
+For to be sold upon this day,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Poor old man.</p>
+<p>You are goin&rsquo; now to say good-bye,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And we say so, for we know so.<br />
+Poor old horse you&rsquo;re a goin&rsquo; to die,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Poor Old Man.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Having paraded the decks in order to get an audience, the sale
+of the horse by auction is announced, and a glib-mouthed man
+mounts the rostrum and begins to praise the noble animal, giving
+his pedigree, etc., saying it was a good one to go, for it had
+gone 6,000 <a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+23</span>miles in the past month!&nbsp; The bidding then
+commences, each bidder being responsible only for the amount of
+his advance on the last bid.&nbsp; After the sale the horse and
+its rider are run up to the yard-arm amidst loud cheers.&nbsp;
+Fireworks are let off, the man gets off the horse&rsquo;s back,
+and, cutting the rope, lets it fall into the water.&nbsp; The
+<i>Requiem</i> is then sung to the same melody.</p>
+<blockquote><p>Now he is dead and will die no more,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And we say so, for we know so.<br />
+Now he is gone and will go no more;<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Poor Old Man.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p23.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Burying the Dead Horse"
+title=
+"Burying the Dead Horse"
+src="images/p23.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After this the auctioneer and his clerk proceed to collect the
+&ldquo;bids,&rdquo; and if in your ignorance of auction etiquette
+you should offer your&rsquo;s to the auctioneer, he politely
+declines it, and refers you to his clerk!</p>
+<p><a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>As we
+neared the Equator the heat became very oppressive.&nbsp; On
+October 2nd, when 7&deg; north of the line, the thermometer stood
+at 120&deg; in the sun, while under the awning it registered
+85&deg;.&nbsp; On the thermometer being dipped into the sea the
+temperature of the surface water was found to be 82&deg;, while
+in the cabin at midnight the thermometer stood at 80&deg;, with
+the wind blowing in at the open porthole.</p>
+<p>In passing under the vertical sun the old proverb &ldquo;may
+your shadow never grow less&rdquo; is entirely out of place, for
+it is impossible it can diminish, unless, indeed, one should
+become like poor misguided Peter Schlemihl, and find oneself
+altogether without one!&nbsp; When standing upright my shadow was
+about two feet in diameter, and it looked like the shadow of the
+brim of my hat all round my feet.</p>
+<p>The wife of the captain of our steamer had been very unwell
+until we had passed the Equator, and had not come out of her
+cabin.&nbsp; One evening, soon after she made her first
+appearance, I was chatting with her, when, finding I was from
+Cornwall, she asked me if I knew a certain watering-place in that
+county which she named.&nbsp; It happened that I had a residence
+at the place in question, and curiously enough she had been a
+visitor at the same house before I had it, and she said,
+&ldquo;last year my sister was staying in the neighbourhood with
+some friends, when they were nearly caught by the tide on the
+beach opposite the house, and had to scale the face of the cliff,
+climbing up some old ladders left in an abandoned
+mine.&rdquo;&nbsp; I told her if they had taken my advice, and
+had turned back, they would not have had such an unpleasant
+adventure, for I happened to be <a name="page25"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 25</span>on the beach at the time, and warned
+the party of their danger, but they disregarded it!&nbsp; It was
+curious to be reminded of this occurrence under such
+circumstances.</p>
+<p>Amongst our fellow-passengers were two young men, whose
+friends, it was reported, had become tired of them at home, and
+had made a present of them to the Colonies.&nbsp; They were very
+lively youths, and did their best to keep the ship lively by
+their pranks and escapades.&nbsp; They were known by the names of
+&ldquo;Tall and Fat,&rdquo; and &ldquo;Short and Stout,&rdquo;
+and were always together.&nbsp; Sometimes, however, the
+playfulness of these two young men received an unexpected
+check.&nbsp; On one occasion they had gone &ldquo;forward&rdquo;
+to play some tricks upon the emigrants, who, however, did not see
+the fun; so, having got the lads into a corner, they covered
+them, first with molasses and then with flour, and so returned
+them to the saloon.&nbsp; They did not repeat their visit.</p>
+<p>There is one feature on board many ships which always strikes
+passengers with surprise; and that is the impunity with which the
+&ldquo;wild spirits&rdquo; carry on their disorderly
+conduct.&nbsp; Drinking, betting, shouting, tramping the deck at
+unseemly hours of the night, are permitted, to the great
+annoyance of the majority; but it is in vain that you appeal to
+the officers&mdash;they will not interfere.&nbsp; On one occasion
+a noisy youth, who went by the name of the &ldquo;Blatant
+Beast,&rdquo; was firing a revolver about &ldquo;at large,&rdquo;
+and although we appealed to the captain, and begged that he would
+disarm the lad, it was useless&mdash;he would not
+interfere.&nbsp; Ultimately the young man accidentally discharged
+the pistol and broke his arm, and so relieved his neighbours from
+further apprehensions for a time.</p>
+<p><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>One
+night &ldquo;Short and Stout&rdquo; and &ldquo;Tall and
+Fat,&rdquo; and a few other rowdies, got drunk, and in their
+rambles found a poor harmless cat, which they chased all over the
+ship, and succeeded in killing.&nbsp; On the following day these
+gallant youths determined, in Irish phrase, to &ldquo;wake&rdquo;
+the cat.&nbsp; They proceeded to fit up one of their cabins as a
+chapel, and upon a bier the corpse of poor pussy was laid, having
+been dressed for the occasion, candles surrounding the
+body.&nbsp; The mourners, or murderers, stood around the body
+with pipes in their mouths, meggy-howling and cat-a-wauling in a
+most vigorous fashion, afterwards parading the deck, headed by
+one of their party, arrayed in a dress coat over a night shirt,
+and wearing a tall white hat, carrying the dead body of poor puss
+before him.</p>
+<p>Betting is often carried on to a great extent, considerable
+sums of money changing hands.&nbsp; One passenger told me, after
+we had been some weeks at sea, that he had cleared enough to pay
+for his own passage, and also for that of his wife and child, and
+that it only remained for him to win enough to pay for the nurse,
+and to take them all from Australia to New Zealand, and he should
+be happy!&nbsp; I knew one man, the father of a very large
+family, who lost &pound;700 in three weeks, &pound;400 of it
+going at a single night&rsquo;s play; yet, with striking
+consistency, this open-handed gentleman refused to allow his wife
+and daughters to go on shore at one of the most interesting of
+our ports of call on the score of the expense, which he said
+would amount to at least &pound;2 or &pound;3!</p>
+<p>A pleasant sight it is to watch the fish and birds which begin
+to make their appearance about 30&deg; S.&nbsp; Occasionally <a
+name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>flocks of
+flying-fish are to be seen flying a few feet above the water,
+pursued by dolphins.&nbsp; Sometimes their headlong flight
+carries them right on to the deck, or through the cabin windows
+when lighted up after nightfall.&nbsp; They are caught by the
+sailors at night by the simple device of suspending a net in
+front of a lantern, and they are said to be very good when
+cooked.</p>
+<p>We first saw that splendid bird, the albatross, when about
+28&deg; S. latitude, and when more than 1,000 miles from
+land.&nbsp; They appeared in flocks, and would follow the ship
+for many days.&nbsp; Their flight is exceedingly graceful, and
+very rapid, the movement of their wings being scarcely
+perceptible.&nbsp; The capture of the albatross is a favourite
+amusement upon sailing ships&mdash;it is scarcely possible to
+catch them from a steamer&mdash;the plan being to let out a line
+over the stern, having a strong hook baited with a piece of meat
+or with red cloth.&nbsp; We were successful in catching a
+magnificent fellow, which measured 15ft. across its wings.&nbsp;
+A drop of prussic acid applied to the eye of the poor creature
+causes instant death.&nbsp; The breast forms an excellent muff,
+and the wing bones make good stems for pipes of the
+&ldquo;churchwarden&rdquo; pattern.&nbsp; One of our passengers
+was a fiery Irishman, who was travelling with his newly-married
+wife.&nbsp; One day, while at dinner, the ship gave a heavy
+lurch, and the lady fell back, breaking her chair; upon which her
+husband, in a great rage, seized the chair, and, rushing on deck,
+threw it overboard, when lo! a flock of albatrosses crowded
+around it, and one fine fellow &ldquo;took&rdquo; the chair, and
+appeared to be addressing his friends!</p>
+<p><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>One of
+the most beautiful creatures to be seen in tropical waters is the
+&ldquo;Portuguese Man-of-War.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is often confounded
+with the Nautilus, but is a quite distinct organism; it has a
+crest which can be raised or lowered at will, and its body
+consists of a long, horizontal, oblong bladder filled with
+air.&nbsp; They vary in size from 12in. diameter to small discs
+no larger than a shilling, and present a beautiful appearance as
+the ship passes by a fleet of them.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p28.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"(A) The &ldquo;Classic&rdquo; Dolphin.  (B) The Dolphin"
+title=
+"(A) The &ldquo;Classic&rdquo; Dolphin.  (B) The Dolphin"
+src="images/p28.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We caught some dolphins, and an examination of their stomachs
+proved they were not unjustly suspected of eating the pretty
+little flying-fish.&nbsp; The pilot-fish, also found in these
+latitudes, is coloured purple and <a name="page29"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 29</span>silver, with five black bands across
+it, and is about five inches in length.&nbsp; We also saw
+specimens of the white shark, porpoises, grampuses, Mother
+Carey&rsquo;s chickens, booby-birds, etc.</p>
+<p>One of the most interesting sights at sea is the passing of
+ships.&nbsp; I shall never forget our meeting a ship in full sail
+one glorious moonlight night.&nbsp; It came close to us, the moon
+shining full on its sails, and being like our vessel, a sailing
+ship, not a sound was heard until our captain hailed the
+stranger, and asked him to report us &ldquo;all well.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>One would think there was not much danger of collision at sea,
+in broad daylight and in the open ocean, but on one occasion,
+while in a sailing ship, another came so close to us that it was
+only by the most dexterous management on the part of our captain
+that a collision was avoided.</p>
+<p>The monotony of a long voyage is occasionally relieved by the
+opportunity of sending letters in homeward-bound ships, and when
+we had been out about a month we were told to have our letters
+ready, for a ship was in sight.&nbsp; Everyone was immediately
+deeply engaged in writing, and presently the stranger came
+sufficiently near for us to communicate with her.&nbsp; Our
+signal was run up, &ldquo;Will you take letters for us?&rdquo; to
+which she quickly replied, &ldquo;With pleasure,&rdquo; and then
+a boat left us to take our letter-bag on board the
+&ldquo;homeward-bound.&rdquo;&nbsp; This vessel was from Moulmein
+with teak, and she had been one hundred days out.&nbsp; Those on
+board had heard nothing of the Cabul massacre, but they brought
+us news of the capture of Cetewayo, having got it from a passing
+ship.&nbsp; In return <a name="page30"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 30</span>for this intelligence we told them of
+the death of the Prince Imperial, which they had not heard of,
+although it happened before the capture of Cetewayo.</p>
+<p>Some of our passengers went on board the passing ship, and two
+of them scrambled up the rigging, and presently we saw a sailor
+follow them and tie their legs to the rigging, releasing them as
+soon as they had paid their footing.&nbsp; In the evening the two
+ships parted company, saluting each other with rockets of various
+colours.</p>
+<p>While our letters were being taken on board the homeward-bound
+ship, we saw a huge shark follow the boat until it reached the
+vessel, and on hearing a shout, &ldquo;a big fish!&rdquo; we ran
+to the ship&rsquo;s side and saw a whale not more than a hundred
+feet off.&nbsp; The monster gave a loud snort, spouted water, and
+then made off.&nbsp; I wonder if it had any idea what we
+were?</p>
+<p>There was a boxing match going forward one day, when the
+captain invited the parson to put the gloves on.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh,
+no,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;I am a man of peace
+<i>now</i>.&rdquo;&nbsp; He told me he objected to war as much as
+anyone could do.&nbsp; &ldquo;But,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;your
+Church does not.&rdquo;&nbsp; He replied that there was nothing
+in the teaching of the Church which advocated war; so I asked
+him, if that was the case, what that part of the prayer-book
+meant where a hope is expressed that the Queen may
+&ldquo;vanquish and overcome all her enemies.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>At dinner one day our friend undertook to explain to us how
+drain-pipes were made.&nbsp; He said, &ldquo;You know those round
+things that are put in the earth to carry off the
+water?&rdquo;&nbsp; Some one suggested drain-pipes.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Ah, yes,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;you know they take a kind
+of clay not <a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+31</span>like other clay, and put it into a sort of machine and
+turn it around and the pipes are made.&rdquo;&nbsp; I thought his
+description was not so good as that of the Irishman who explained
+the manufacture of cast-iron pipes by saying, &ldquo;You take a
+round hole and pour the metal around it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p31.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Colonial Parson"
+title=
+"A Colonial Parson"
+src="images/p31.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Some one remarking that we were now 36&deg; south, he said,
+&ldquo;Ah, that is just 4&deg; below freezing,&rdquo; having
+confused the degrees of latitude with those of the
+thermometer.&nbsp; Upon being told that 32&deg; was the freezing
+point.&nbsp; &ldquo;Really?&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;I always
+thought it was 40&deg;.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In listening to most of the clergymen with whom I have
+travelled, I have been irresistibly reminded of the complaint
+made so bitterly, and with so much truth, by Australian importers
+in the early gold-finding days, that English merchants and
+manufacturers were utterly reckless as to the quality of the
+goods they sent out, <a name="page32"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 32</span>acting on the principle that
+&ldquo;anything will do for the Colonies.&rdquo;&nbsp; This idea
+has long ceased to have any currency, for it has been discovered
+that the coinage of the Australian mint ranks equally with that
+of London, but it does not appear that those responsible for the
+due supply of clergymen to the Colonies have realised the same
+truth, for on every hand I have had my own experience
+confirmed.&nbsp; The general complaint amongst the colonists,
+especially in the country districts, is that either young and
+totally inexperienced men are sent to them, or else men who have
+proved failures at home; and they not unnaturally resent such
+treatment.</p>
+<p>In a recent voyage we had a large number of steerage
+passengers, and amongst them was a very earnest, hard-working
+evangelist from Mr. Spurgeon&rsquo;s college; this man had
+sacrificed his ease during the voyage by attending to the sick
+and ailing &ldquo;in season and out of season,&rdquo; and was
+admitted on all sides to have done much good; frequently, too, he
+held religious services amongst the steerage passengers, and met
+with great acceptance.&nbsp; One man had been very ill for a long
+time, and had been tenderly waited upon by the evangelist.&nbsp;
+After a time he became suddenly worse, and some passengers at
+once went to a clergyman, who suggested that the Communion should
+be administered.&nbsp; Having obtained the help of another
+clergyman and two or three of the passengers&mdash;none of whom
+had before shown any interest in the patient&mdash;they proceeded
+on their errand without saying a word to the evangelist, and on
+the following Sunday the clergyman preached a sermon to the poor
+people, endeavouring to prove that no one had any right to <a
+name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>teach or to
+preach but members of his Church, who, only, held the true
+commission, by virtue of what he called the &ldquo;direct
+succession from Peter:&rdquo; and I suppose he thought he was
+preaching religion, not perceiving that he lacked what Paul
+described as being the highest of all the Christian
+virtues&mdash;that of charity.</p>
+<p>In passing through the Tropics one of the most glorious sights
+is the phosphorescence in the sea.&nbsp; Of course it can be seen
+to the greatest advantage in the absence of the moon; it is
+something wonderful, and worth coming all the way to see.&nbsp;
+As far as the eye can reach, the track of the vessel is marked
+out with the utmost brilliancy, and sometimes tiny balls of
+phosphorus seem to explode, scattering their radiance far and
+wide.</p>
+<p>We had as fellow-passengers three young men who rarely spoke
+to anyone outside their own party, and during the early part of
+the voyage they usually sat on the deck for hours at a time
+engaged in reading their Bibles and making notes on the
+margin.&nbsp; After we had been out a few weeks the youngest of
+the three was stricken with scarlet fever, and at one time he was
+seriously ill.</p>
+<p>The trio were known as the &ldquo;Danite Band.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The eldest was a young man about twenty-one, and one evening I
+had a little chat with him.&nbsp; He said he belonged to no sect;
+he had &ldquo;come out from among them&rdquo;&mdash;that his soul
+was safe, die when he would, and that he could only look on the
+poor sinners around him with a pitying eye, and pray for their
+souls.&nbsp; He was rejoicing at having saved one soul since he
+came on board.&nbsp; It so happened that this young man occupied
+the <a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>same
+cabin as the youth who was ill with fever, but becoming alarmed
+for his personal safety (not his soul&rsquo;s), he requested to
+be accommodated elsewhere, while another passenger volunteered to
+take his place and to nurse the invalid, so they exchanged
+cabins.&nbsp; On the following Sunday the young man who had
+volunteered as nurse knocked at the pious young man&rsquo;s door
+and asked for his boots, receiving for answer, &ldquo;I
+won&rsquo;t be bothered about boots on the Lord&rsquo;s
+Day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>It is usual to hold a bazaar on passenger ships proceeding to
+or from the Colonies.&nbsp; These bazaars are almost invariably
+held in aid of the funds of the Merchant Seaman&rsquo;s Hospital
+and other similar institutions, and a large sum is annually
+obtained in this way.&nbsp; The result in the case of the sailing
+vessel in which I made one of my voyages was a sum of over
+&pound;50, besides some annual subscriptions, although the number
+of adult saloon passengers was only about thirty.</p>
+<p>Great preparations were made for this bazaar, it being the
+event of the voyage.&nbsp; The day previous the sailors were
+busily engaged closing-in the promenade deck with canvas and
+bunting, and dividing it off into stalls by means of flags and
+other coloured materials.&nbsp; While thus engaged, another
+sailing vessel came in sight, and the sea being nearly dead calm
+the two vessels approached closely, and parties were speedily
+passing to and fro.&nbsp; We invited some of the passengers in
+the stranger to join us to-morrow, and they invested about
+&pound;5 in lotteries before going back for the night.</p>
+<p>Next day was a most lovely one, but a heavy rolling sea was
+sufficient to prevent our visitors of yesterday joining us.&nbsp;
+Nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the <a
+name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>day
+ourselves, for the whole ship&rsquo;s company&mdash;passengers,
+crew, men, women, and children&mdash;held high carnival on the
+promenade deck.&nbsp; It was pretty to see the children of the
+second class who, owing to the high bulwarks, were rarely able to
+see over the ship&rsquo;s side, rush first of all to look over
+the rail at the heaving sea.</p>
+<p>The first officer was dressed as a showman, and presided over
+the Fine Art Exhibition, his face being painted a fine
+terra-cotta tint.&nbsp; The crew and stewards were variously
+costumed as nigger minstrels, etc.&nbsp; The stalls were presided
+over by the ladies, who, as usual, were very successful in
+disposing of the various articles, which, by the way, were for
+the most part made up by the ladies themselves during the
+voyage.&nbsp; Much curiosity was excited by the announcement of a
+dramatic performance, entitled &ldquo;The White Squall,&rdquo;
+which was to take place in the Theatre Royal.&nbsp; The <i>corps
+dramatique</i> evinced great anxiety to secure the attendance of
+the whole ship&rsquo;s company, and were fairly successful.&nbsp;
+The performance did not take long, for as soon as the audience
+were seated cries of &ldquo;Let go&rdquo; were heard from the
+actors, upon which the air was filled with a veritable
+&ldquo;White Squall,&rdquo; consisting of clouds of flour,
+causing a general stampede.</p>
+<p>Next day we found our companion of yesterday lying at some
+distance ahead, while a stranger lay on the port quarter.&nbsp; A
+curious instance of cross-signalling ensued.&nbsp; The stranger
+asks our companion, the St. Vincent, for latitude and
+longitude.&nbsp; The St. Vincent missing this, and intent on
+their investment in yesterday&rsquo;s lottery, puts up,
+&ldquo;What have we won?&rdquo;&nbsp; The reply,
+&ldquo;Nothing.&rdquo;&nbsp; The stranger runs up,
+&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t <a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+36</span>understand.&nbsp; Repeat, please.&rdquo;&nbsp; Then St.
+Vincent replies, &ldquo;Very sorry,&rdquo; upon which our Captain
+signals the stranger, and removes all further doubt.</p>
+<p>We passed close to the Island of Tristan d&rsquo;Acunha, which
+lies in the South Atlantic, lat. 37&deg; 6&prime; S., long.
+12&deg; 7&prime; W.&nbsp; As a curious little history attaches to
+the island, I make the following extract from our ship&rsquo;s
+newspaper:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Tristan d&rsquo;Acunha is a volcanic peak of very
+considerable altitude, so considerable indeed that its summit is
+covered almost perpetually with snow.&nbsp; It rises sheer out of
+the water, and there is only a single landing-place on the whole
+island.&nbsp; Previous to the downfall of Bonaparte it was
+uninhabited; but when that scourge was despatched to St. Helena,
+the British Government deemed it advisable to secure this
+isolated rock, and so prevent the French using it as a base of
+operations against the place of Napoleon&rsquo;s
+internment.&nbsp; A small company of soldiers, in charge of a
+corporal, was therefore despatched, and left in possession.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;In 1821 Napoleon died, and the necessity for
+maintaining the garrison at Tristan existed no longer.&nbsp; A
+man-of-war was accordingly sent to bring away the corporal and
+his little army.&nbsp; But he and they had by this time
+comfortably settled down, tilled the&mdash;rock we were about to
+say&mdash;and produced excellent potatoes and other vegetables;
+raised pigs and goats, and having in some mysterious way obtained
+wives, had raised families too.&nbsp; They were therefore
+extremely reluctant to leave the scene of their successful
+labours; and the English Government, nothing loth to encourage
+colonisation, at once gave the necessary permission to remain,
+and with it a small pension or annuity.</p>
+<p><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+37</span>&ldquo;They have gone on flourishing and increasing,
+forming a useful and peaceable community in the very centre of
+the South Atlantic; useful because whalers and other vessels, by
+putting in there, are able to obtain fresh potatoes, vegetables,
+and pigs.&nbsp; Little money is used, barter affording sufficient
+facility for interchange.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Crime is almost unknown.&nbsp; We had as well said
+absolutely unknown, for it is doubtful whether the one case of
+dishonesty on record as such was not rather an ill-fared
+joke.&nbsp; It seems that when a marriage takes place a pig is
+killed by the bride&rsquo;s father, and dressed the night before
+the nuptials.&nbsp; On the occasion referred to the pig
+disappeared before morning, and was traced to the house of a
+notorious wag, as to whose fate history is silent.&nbsp; It is
+only fair to add that he admitted taking the pig, but protested
+that it had been done by way of a practical joke.&nbsp; At one
+time a missionary existed in the midst of this innocent
+community, but he eventually disappeared&mdash;either died or was
+removed.&nbsp; His place was never refilled, and the consequences
+have been rather trying to the budding men and women of Tristan,
+for whereas in the missionary&rsquo;s days loving couples could
+be, to use a nautical phrase, &ldquo;spliced,&rdquo; when they
+had made up their minds, now they must wait until a chance
+man-o&rsquo;-war, with a chaplain on board, puts in, and as their
+visits are nearly as rare as those of the angels, the patience of
+these Tristan lovers must unquestionably be sorely
+strained.&nbsp; When, however, like some comet of very eccentric
+orbit, the parson does at length turn up, he finds plenty of ripe
+pairs ready&mdash;nay, eager&mdash;for him.</p>
+<p><a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+38</span>&ldquo;What a popular man that parson must be!&nbsp;
+Last and most interesting fact.&nbsp; When the
+&lsquo;Sobraon&rsquo; put in at Tristan in 1879 the corporal was
+still living, a venerable patriarch of ninety years.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>After leaving Tristan we soon get &ldquo;into the
+forties,&rdquo; or as the sailors are wont to say, &ldquo;the
+rolling forties,&rdquo; where the westerly winds steadily
+prevail, and continue right on until we make Cape Leeuwin.&nbsp;
+These winds cause the magnificent waves, or
+&ldquo;rollers,&rdquo; which tower up over the stern of the
+vessel, threatening, apparently, to overwhelm it.&nbsp; In a gale
+of wind, and when the &ldquo;following seas&rdquo; are running at
+a high speed, it becomes necessary for some vessels to &ldquo;lie
+to&rdquo; in order to avoid this catastrophe.&nbsp; We had an
+opportunity of seeing this operation.&nbsp; Soon after passing
+the Cape we were overtaken by a heavy gale, and a high following
+sea.&nbsp; Our vessel being a sailing ship of the old type, with
+broad bluff bows, necessitated our adopting that course.&nbsp;
+Our stern was turned in the teeth of the wind and sea, and, with
+the exception of a top-sail and jib-sail, all our canvas was
+closely taken in.&nbsp; She lay so all night labouring heavily,
+and the sea breaking over her decks.</p>
+<p>Soon after sighting Cape Otway vessels bound for Melbourne
+receive their pilot, whose advent is the occasion of great
+excitement among the betting fraternity.&nbsp; Bets are laid on
+the colour of his hair and whiskers, whether or not he has a
+moustache, the letter with which his name begins, and which foot
+he will first put on deck.&nbsp; As soon as he makes his
+appearance he is greeted with shouts of &ldquo;What&rsquo;s your
+name?&rdquo;&nbsp; Evidently he is accustomed to it, for he does
+not look surprised.&nbsp; In this particular case everyone was
+out as <a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>to
+the colour of his hair and beard, for he had a black beard and
+white whiskers.&nbsp; The pilot brought news of a general
+election in one of the colonies, and one of our passengers, a
+colonial statesman, eagerly asked him for papers.&nbsp; The
+statesman&rsquo;s countenance was expressive of blankness within
+when he saw he was beaten in his constituency&mdash;but soon
+brightened on hearing he was returned by another.</p>
+<p>The entrance to Hobson&rsquo;s Bay is very narrow, and the
+distance therefrom to Melbourne is about 40 miles.&nbsp; We
+landed soon after six on a January morning, and found the heat
+almost unbearable.&nbsp; Taking a cab to our hotel, we made our
+first experience of the high charges in a Protectionist colony,
+for we were obliged to pay a guinea for this service.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page40"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 40</span>
+<a href="images/p40.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"IN THE TROPICS"
+title=
+"IN THE TROPICS"
+src="images/p40.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+<p>When driving to the hotel we were struck with the deserted
+appearance of the streets, as very few persons were seen during
+our three miles&rsquo; ride from Sandridge.&nbsp; It did not
+occur to us that this arose from the earliness of the hour, our
+day having commenced about three <span
+class="GutSmall">A.M.</span>, when we began to make preparations
+for landing; but, as will be seen, the fact became of startling
+significance to us.&nbsp; While waiting for breakfast I took up
+the newspaper, and had not proceeded far before I came to an
+article headed &ldquo;The Black Death in Melbourne.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+This article gave a detailed and circumstantial account of the
+progress of the disease, which was stated to have been raging for
+the past four or five weeks.&nbsp; Among other things, the
+article stated that the number of deaths had become so great that
+it was impossible to <a name="page41"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 41</span>dig separate graves; that the bodies
+were placed in trenches, one being dug each day; that all who
+could leave the city had fled; and that the mob had surrounded
+the Town Hall, demanding to see the Mayor and Corporation, who,
+however, had already disappeared.&nbsp; Getting alarmed, we rang
+for the waiter, and asked him how we could get to Adelaide.&nbsp;
+He naturally enough seemed surprised, as we had only just
+arrived.&nbsp; I told him it was too bad he had not warned us of
+the state of the city, and of the existence of the plague.&nbsp;
+The man looked astonished.&nbsp; I asked him if there had not
+been great illness and mortality in the city.&nbsp; He answered
+that there had been a few cases of measles, and a whooping-cough
+or two, and that six people had died during the last week from
+these causes.&nbsp; I began to suspect we had been
+&ldquo;sold,&rdquo; and was about to pass the paper to him when I
+caught sight of an asterisk placed against the heading, and on
+looking at the foot of the column saw that the article was
+written as a prediction of what would happen in Melbourne within
+100 years unless sanitary matters were at once attended to.</p>
+<p>Melbourne is a city of fine broad streets, handsome public
+buildings, splendid shops, and vast warehouses.&nbsp; Indeed, a
+stranger cannot fail to be struck with its metropolitan-like
+character.&nbsp; Only forty years ago the site on which it stands
+was a mere swamp with a few log huts; now its population is about
+the third of a million souls.&nbsp; For this population a series
+of educational institutions of an unusually high character have
+been founded, and are in active operation.&nbsp; The Free
+Library, which we visited, is a handsome room, and seems in every
+way <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>well
+adapted to the requirements of a large number of students and
+readers.&nbsp; We were impressed with the quietude which
+prevailed, notwithstanding that the room was well filled with
+readers, most of them apparently of the artisan class.&nbsp; The
+Art Gallery is a free institution, and contains a very fair
+collection of good paintings.</p>
+<p>The Natural History Museum, which by the way is really a
+museum of general science, is a truly magnificent
+institution.&nbsp; Very fine collections are here classified in a
+manner which, while perfectly lucid to the student, is also in
+strict accordance with the views of modern scientific
+authorities.&nbsp; We noticed particularly a good collection of
+sedimentary fossils, well preserved and fairly
+comprehensive.&nbsp; A fine meteorolite weighing 30 cwts., a
+portion of one weighing four tons which fell in Victoria a few
+years ago, is a prominent object near the entrance.&nbsp; This
+museum, in common with the Art Gallery and Free Library, is the
+resort of vast numbers of students, and it is cheering to be
+informed that the working classes largely avail themselves of the
+advantages thus provided for them.</p>
+<p>As in the other Australian colonies, education here has been
+taken up in a vigorous and thorough manner, and the State schools
+are a credit to the colony.&nbsp; Although the population of
+Victoria is under one million, we observed in Melbourne a school
+bearing the inscription No. 1465.&nbsp; But with all this
+liberality and foresight, a strange blot exists in the
+educational course, for the study of history is, in deference to
+the prejudices of a portion of the population, absolutely
+interdicted.&nbsp; It is impossible, however, that this absurd
+concession to <a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+43</span>ignorance can long be endured.&nbsp; In leaving Aden on
+one occasion I began to have doubts as to whether geography was
+also excluded, for a young man, son of a well-to-do squatter,
+hearing me speak of Suez, asked which end of the canal that town
+stood at; and another youth, in passing the island of Candia,
+said he always thought <i>Canada</i> was somewhere in
+America.</p>
+<p>Happily, no fears exist in Australia as to the policy of
+thoroughly educating the people; on the contrary, it is commonly
+recognised that the future prosperity of the State&mdash;indeed
+its very existence&mdash;depends upon the universal diffusion of
+education.</p>
+<p>At the time of our visit party feeling ran very high in
+connection with the doings of the &ldquo;Berry&rdquo; Ministry,
+and as extraordinary personalities were nightly being indulged in
+by both sides in the House, we went one evening to hear a
+&ldquo;debate.&rdquo;&nbsp; The regular business seemed to be
+conducted as well as it is at Westminster, but it was curious to
+see the careless way in which the members, in brown holland or
+yellow silk coats, lay about on the sofas, or lazily lounged off
+to the table for frequent draughts of what was said to be iced
+water.&nbsp; The shouts, cries, and interruptions were very
+unseemly, much worse than anything we had then experienced,
+giving us a very low opinion of the representatives of the
+people.&nbsp; One honourable member, in the course of debate,
+hurled a heavy tome across the house at the head of one of his
+opponents with crushing effect, while another member
+characterised the smile of the Minister of Lands as being such as
+to &ldquo;sour all the milk in the colony, and to take the
+varnish off all the mahogany in the <a name="page44"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 44</span>house.&rdquo;&nbsp; This compliment
+the Minister lightly parried by remarking that anything coming
+from the son of a cabbage hawker could not affect him.</p>
+<p>The Melbourne legislators evidently do not believe in having
+&ldquo;all work and no play,&rdquo; they have consequently
+provided themselves&mdash;of course out of the public
+purse&mdash;with billiard tables, and, with a spirit of rare
+generosity and thoughtfulness, have made the parliamentary
+reporters for the Press free of the rooms.</p>
+<p>With such provision for their comfort, and with handsome
+salaries paid them for their services by a grateful country, what
+wonder that there should be considerable competition for seats
+within the walls of the Victorian House of Parliament? and with
+what feelings of commiseration must they regard their brethren of
+New South Wales, who, when one of their number recently proposed
+to imitate the example of Melbourne in the matter of billiard
+tables, were reminded, in unmistakable terms by their exacting
+constituents, that they were sent to Parliament to work and not
+to play!&nbsp; And what makes the matter harder for the Sydney
+legislators is the fact that, unlike their Melbourne friends,
+they are not paid for their services.</p>
+<p>The question of the payment of Members of Parliament has
+acquired considerable interest in England of late, mainly in
+consequence of Mr. Chamberlain&rsquo;s declaration in its favour;
+and it appears not unlikely that at no distant date it may be
+carried into effect.&nbsp; There are two modes by which the
+object in view may be attained;&mdash;either by a general charge
+upon the Imperial Revenue, or by each constituency paying its own
+representative; in either case the <a name="page45"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 45</span>amount of salary would be determined
+by Parliament; and, if the latter course be adopted, its payment
+would be made obligatory.&nbsp; In Victoria the salaries are paid
+direct from the Treasury, and those who have seen how the system
+works are the least enthusiastic in its favour.</p>
+<p>Time was, when to be a Member of Parliament was looked upon as
+a certain way to repair a broken fortune, or to make a new one;
+but since the days when George III., of pious memory, taught his
+Ministers how to corrupt the Parliament, a seat in that assembly
+has not been considered to be pecuniarily advantageous.&nbsp; But
+in some of the Australian colonies the case is different,
+politics being looked upon, to a great extent, as a trade or
+profession, and very largely because of the salary attached to
+the position of Members of the Legislature.</p>
+<p>One of my customers in Victoria, who had long owed me
+&pound;50, told me he would soon be able to discharge his debt as
+he had been nominated for Parliament, and would pay me out of his
+first quarter&rsquo;s salary!&nbsp; It is only fair to say that,
+although he failed to secure the seat, he nevertheless paid his
+debt.</p>
+<p>The Houses of Parliament stand on a slight elevation, and
+though still unfinished, promise to be a magnificent pile of
+buildings, of which many an old-established country, with far
+greater pretensions than Victoria, might well be proud.&nbsp; The
+Great Hall, a sort of ante-chamber to the Houses, impressed me as
+much as any building of the kind I had ever seen.&nbsp; It is
+about 180ft. long, by 60ft. wide, and 60ft. high, without
+galleries, seats, or anything to detract from its <a
+name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>magnificent
+proportions.&nbsp; The whole surface of the walls and roof is
+covered with a beautiful enamel-like cement, brilliantly white
+and polished quite smooth, the floor being of white marble, and a
+superb white marble statue of the Queen in the centre.&nbsp; The
+whole effect is startlingly beautiful.&nbsp; I subsequently went
+over the Town Hall and Council Chamber, but these are much
+inferior to corresponding buildings in Birmingham.&nbsp; The
+councillors wear cocked hats and gold-braided coats, and the
+aldermen black stuff gowns or robes.</p>
+<p>I have already spoken of the tension in party politics at the
+time of our visit.&nbsp; This was seized upon by the theatrical
+people, who produced an adaptation of the burlesque known in
+England as &ldquo;Happy Land,&rdquo; the principal characters
+being Mr. Berry&mdash;the Premier, the man with the caustic
+smile, and another prominent member of the Administration.&nbsp;
+On the morning of the day on which the first representation was
+to have been given, a Cabinet Council was hastily summoned, and
+the question gravely debated as to whether the safety of the
+State, or at any rate the Cabinet, would not be compromised by
+tolerating the performance.&nbsp; It was quickly and unanimously
+decided to prohibit it, and this decision was announced.&nbsp;
+Such a universal storm of ridicule was thus aroused that the
+infatuated Berryites were driven to reconsider their course,
+ultimately licensing an emasculated version of the play, with all
+the political references erased.&nbsp; The newspapers, ever alive
+to the chance of turning a penny, and showing up an opponent,
+published the original <i>in extenso</i>, and when the
+performance began large numbers of the audience had copies before
+them.&nbsp; <a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+47</span>When an excised passage was reached, the actor or
+actress would pause, and, holding up the hand, whisper audibly,
+&ldquo;Hush! prohibited,&rdquo; giving time for those with copies
+to read the obnoxious reference.&nbsp; For days after people in
+the street would, on meeting, put up the finger, and greet each
+other with &ldquo;Hush! prohibited.&rdquo;&nbsp; The Government
+were overwhelmed with ridicule, and were glad to compromise with
+the persons they had so injudiciously provoked.</p>
+<p>During the summer Melbourne is occasionally visited by what
+are called &ldquo;hot winds.&rdquo;&nbsp; They blow from the
+north, and derive much of their arid character from coming over
+the great wastes of the interior.&nbsp; We were unlucky enough to
+experience one of these hot winds, and we subsequently learned
+that the shade temperature had reached 117&deg;&mdash;as high a
+point, I believe, as any that had previously been recorded in the
+city.&nbsp; It is no exaggeration to say that while exposed to
+the wind it felt like the hot blast from the cupola of a foundry
+when iron is being melted.&nbsp; The clothes were little or no
+protection against its scorching influence.&nbsp; The air was
+filled with choking clouds of dust, which penetrated everything
+and everywhere.&nbsp; In the evening, however, the wind fell off,
+leaving the temperature very high.</p>
+<p>The sanitary arrangements in Melbourne are extremely
+defective, and to my mind fully justify the writer of the article
+on the &ldquo;Black Death,&rdquo; which so much startled us on
+our arrival there.&nbsp; There is literally no system of
+sewerage, the whole drainage of the town running by the side of
+the pathways in wide ill-paved channels, crossed by wooden foot
+bridges.&nbsp; The whole <a name="page48"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 48</span>runs into the river Yarra.&nbsp; In
+heavy rains these channels become surcharged, and the lower-lying
+streets are flooded with diluted sewage.&nbsp; On such an
+occasion I was crossing one of these gutters, when a
+street-sweeper approached, holding his cap in one hand and his
+broom in the other, and asked me to remember &ldquo;an old
+shipmate, your honour.&rdquo;&nbsp; I soon recognised him as our
+old friend &ldquo;Tall and Fat&rdquo;.&nbsp; I could not help
+looking surprised, whereat he assured me he had found a most
+excellent berth as a street-sweeper&mdash;that none but gentlemen
+were engaged in the &ldquo;profession,&rdquo; all being Oxford or
+Cambridge men&mdash;the wages being 7s. per day.&nbsp; I asked
+after his friend &ldquo;Short and Stout.&rdquo;&nbsp; He said he
+held a similar appointment at an adjoining corner, and he
+promised to share my gratuity with him.</p>
+<p>The country between Melbourne and Ballarat is flat and
+somewhat uninteresting, but near the latter city it becomes more
+hilly and diversified.&nbsp; Ballarat is a well-built city,
+containing about 40,000 inhabitants.&nbsp; A few years ago there
+were 10,000 more, but in consequence of the alluvial gold
+becoming exhausted a considerable exodus took place.&nbsp; The
+streets are wide, and have trees on each side; in some there are
+trees in the middle as well.&nbsp; The houses are substantially
+built of stone or brick, and altogether it has the air of being a
+busy and prosperous place.</p>
+<p>We visited one of the gold mines, and as we approached the
+office saw three persons coming towards it, one of them carrying
+a parcel, which appeared to be heavy.&nbsp; It proved to be a
+brick of gold weighing 33 lbs., and worth about &pound;1,200,
+being the result of one week&rsquo;s <a name="page49"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 49</span>working.&nbsp; We were shown the
+various processes of obtaining the gold from the quartz, and were
+rather surprised at the somewhat primitive character of the
+machinery employed.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p49.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Gold Mine, Ballarat"
+title=
+"Gold Mine, Ballarat"
+src="images/p49.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Several of the companies with big-sounding names occupy spaces
+of only 60ft. by 50ft., and yet yield substantial returns.&nbsp;
+One such little patch is part of the Church land, and is called
+&ldquo;Hallelujah Claim,&rdquo; in honour of the Church.&nbsp;
+The total value of gold raised in Australia up to end of 1879 was
+275 millions sterling.</p>
+<p>One of the prettiest features of this handsome city is a fine
+sheet of water called Lake Wendouree.&nbsp; This lake is about a
+mile across, and lies in the crater of an extinct volcano.&nbsp;
+The Botanical Gardens are on the farther side of Wendouree, which
+has a fine boulevard round each side leading thereto.&nbsp; On
+the lake are <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+50</span>several pretty little steamers, which make frequent
+excursions.&nbsp; In the evening they are provided with coloured
+lamps, and music and dances may be enjoyed by the
+passengers.&nbsp; Ballarat is less than thirty years old, yet has
+quite an old-world appearance.&nbsp; It is a charming city and
+well worth a visit, and we were well pleased to have seen it.</p>
+<p>A favourite excursion from Melbourne is to the Black Spur
+Mountains, about two days&rsquo; drive from the city.&nbsp;
+Leaving Melbourne the route passes through some miles of suburban
+villa residences with beautiful gardens.&nbsp; After about ten
+miles &ldquo;the bush&rdquo; is reached, and continues for the
+remainder of the journey, relieved here and there by a clearing
+or by a little village.&nbsp; The term &ldquo;bush&rdquo; must
+not be understood as scrub, furze, etc., but all kinds of
+uncultivated land, thick forests, and open country.&nbsp; A
+curious feature of colonial life is to see in full operation the
+old stage coaches, so long ago discarded in England.&nbsp; They
+are painted a brilliant red, and indeed appear to be the
+veritable machines used in the &ldquo;good old days when George
+the Third was king.&rdquo;&nbsp; They are frequently drawn by six
+or more horses, and, true to their ancient traditions, now and
+then have a spill, for roadmakers in the Colonies have the same
+habit as their English brethren of making short &ldquo;right
+about turns&rdquo; at the bottom of steep hills.&nbsp; We drew up
+at a small wayside inn, intending to bait the horses, but found
+it was closed, owing to the death of the landlord.&nbsp; This man
+was a large wine grower, and his vineyards extended for a
+considerable distance round his house.&nbsp; After passing
+through many miles of country under vine cultivation we <a
+name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>pulled up for
+the night at a little village called Healesville, where a very
+miscellaneous company sat down to a substantial repast, ending
+with what the waiter called a &ldquo;soafler.&rdquo;&nbsp; The
+light being dim it was difficult to see what the dish really was,
+and curiosity being awakened, inquiry elicited the fact that it
+was intended for a souffl&eacute;.&nbsp; The hotel being quite
+full of visitors, two of our party had to sleep in the parlour on
+sofas of the horse-hair order.&nbsp; The landlord, coming in to
+see if we were all right, informed us we could not have our boots
+cleaned in the morning, as his man was just then out on a
+boose.&nbsp; A colonial friend travelling with us remarked that
+it was &ldquo;awkward when master or man took to
+boosing.&rdquo;&nbsp; Our friend had previously told us that the
+landlord was generally &ldquo;on that line.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;You never saw me boosy!&rdquo; said he.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;<i>Never</i>!&rdquo; retorted our friend, with peculiar
+emphasis, which summarily stopped the discussion.&nbsp; We were
+awakened early in the morning by the screams of laughing
+jackasses and the crowing of cocks.&nbsp; Our toilette was
+performed somewhat under difficulties, one of us having to use
+the piano as a washstand, and another being constrained to go
+through the same operation in the open street under the hotel
+verandah.&nbsp; Our route now lay over a steep hill, through a
+forest of gum trees, the fragrance arising from the latter in the
+early morning air being delightfully refreshing.&nbsp; The main
+roads are kept very fairly, a certain number of men being told
+off for each section at 9s. per day wages.&nbsp; The old corduroy
+roads, formed by laying trees across the track and filling the
+interstices with earth, are being gradually superseded by
+Macadam.&nbsp; The men seemed <a name="page52"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 52</span>to work in very leisurely
+fashion.&nbsp; We were to have breakfasted at a cottage on the
+road, but when we arrived there found that the old lady who kept
+it had gone to a ball at some village public-house, several miles
+away, as also had the owners of all the other cottages along the
+route.&nbsp; A little girl left in charge told us that after the
+ball all these good people were going to the funeral of the wine
+grower and innkeeper previously mentioned, and our friend told us
+they would doubtless stay there to comfort the widow as long as
+there was any wine left in the house.&nbsp; We soon after entered
+the region of the big gum trees and of the tree ferns, and a
+wonderfully beautiful sight it was.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p52.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Big Tree"
+title=
+"A Big Tree"
+src="images/p52.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The whole valley is filled with tree ferns, and the fronds, in
+many cases being new, with the sunlight falling upon them, formed
+a picture not soon to be forgotten.&nbsp; <a
+name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>Some of the
+gum trees were enormously large&mdash;we saw several 15ft. in
+diameter and over 200ft. in height&mdash;but these were small
+when compared with some found in the less frequented parts.&nbsp;
+In the midst of such surroundings lies the pretty little village
+of Fernshaw.&nbsp; When we were first invited to spend a week at
+the country house of our friend we rather unreasonably pictured
+in our minds an English country or seaside residence, and
+anticipated much pleasure in the change from dusty
+Melbourne.&nbsp; Our surprise was great, therefore, when after
+jolting over some half-formed roads we came upon a clearing among
+the gum trees, and were told that the wooden shanty before us was
+the Melbourne citizen&rsquo;s country house.&nbsp; We were not
+disposed, however, to be very critical, for the sixty miles drive
+in the mountain air had made us hungry, and we were quite ready
+to respond to the invitation to the evening meal.&nbsp; But our
+disillusion was complete upon entering the sitting room and
+finding that no provision had been made for the satisfying of our
+keen appetites.&nbsp; By some accident the supplies from
+Melbourne had not arrived; the rough table was covered with a
+couple of towels, and on it was spread a repast consisting of
+some bad bread and sour raspberry jam, while the &ldquo;cup which
+cheers but not inebriates&rdquo; was innocent of milk and
+sugar.&nbsp; It was Saturday evening and we were &ldquo;out of
+humanity&rsquo;s reach,&rdquo; being many miles from any source
+of supply, so had to content ourselves as best we might with this
+Spartan fare until the Monday, when our host proposed an
+excursion to a distant part, involving the staying a night at an
+hotel.&nbsp; We gladly embraced the proposal, and finding that
+the <a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>hotel
+was a comfortable one I determined to excuse myself from joining
+in the excursion on the following day in order that I might have
+the opportunity of recruiting nature&rsquo;s exhausted powers by
+an extra meal, a resolution I had much satisfaction in carrying
+into effect.&nbsp; Our friend and his sons own about one thousand
+acres, at present covered with trees, with the exception of a
+small clearing round the house.&nbsp; When a piece of land is
+taken, the first care is to fence it, which is done with logs, at
+a cost of &pound;25 per mile, including the cutting of the
+logs.&nbsp; The next step is to &ldquo;ring&rdquo; the
+trees&mdash;that is, to cut a deep groove round them, and so by
+killing them prevent any further exhaustion of the soil.&nbsp;
+The trees being dead, vegetation rapidly springs up, and there is
+soon abundance of food for cattle.&nbsp; Clearing the ground of
+trees and stumps is a very costly operation, and takes many years
+to finally accomplish.&nbsp; The Government with a view of
+preventing the accumulation of lands in a few hands, refuse to
+sell more than 320 acres to one person, but of course this is
+easily evaded.&nbsp; At the time of our visit the price was
+&pound;1 per acre, payable in ten years by equal instalments, a
+condition being that some one should reside upon the
+allotment.&nbsp; At the end of three years the owner can obtain
+from Government a lease of the land, and can then pay up the full
+value, which leaves him at liberty to sell if he wishes to do
+so.&nbsp; Of course the building up of large estates is thus
+encouraged, but this could, perhaps, be prevented by imposing a
+tax on every acre.&nbsp; The 20,000 acre men would soon be
+compelled to dispose of some of the land which they hold in the
+expectation that it will <a name="page56"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 56</span>increase in value.&nbsp; Such a plan
+has been proposed, but it naturally met with great opposition
+from the landed interest.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p55.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"On the Black Spur"
+title=
+"On the Black Spur"
+src="images/p55.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Leaving our friend&rsquo;s house a drive of a few miles
+through the bush brought us to the picturesquely-situated village
+of Marysville.&nbsp; This little village lies in a deep hollow
+surrounded by fine ranges of tree-clad hills of extreme
+beauty.&nbsp; A pleasant hour&rsquo;s walk from the village,
+under the shade of the tree ferns, took us to the Stephenson
+Falls.&nbsp; The principal fall is 80ft., and the volume of water
+is unusually large for an Australian waterfall.&nbsp; Close to
+the fall are some magnificently large tree ferns, and while
+sitting here enjoying the lovely view some little birds came
+flitting about, one of them hopping on to the shoulder of one of
+our party, attracted, doubtless, by the aroma of a fragrant
+&ldquo;weed&rdquo; which at the time he was enjoying.&nbsp;
+English visitors to Australia, especially those in search of
+health, would find the conditions existing at Marysville most
+conducive to their restoration.&nbsp; The air is bracing, and as
+before stated, the scenery most delightful.&nbsp; A tolerably
+good accommodation is to be had at the inn, which will doubtless
+be improved as the place becomes more widely known.</p>
+<p>Returning to Melbourne, we stayed another night at
+Healesville, arriving at 7.30, and as we had fared badly during
+the day we were quite ready for a substantial dinner, and from
+our previous experience of the house made no doubt of obtaining
+it.&nbsp; But unfortunately for us, there had been a chapel
+tea-party during the afternoon, at which a large force of parsons
+had been present.&nbsp; We had therefore to be content with a
+tough, <a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+58</span>woody steak, a wild duck of ancient and fish-like smell,
+varied by salted mutton.&nbsp; The butter was rancid and full of
+dead flies, and the bread appeared to have been cast upon the
+waters.&nbsp; We had to go to bed feeling quite faint, but hoping
+for a better breakfast.&nbsp; The beds were good, and we should
+have had a good night&rsquo;s rest, which we sorely needed after
+the twig beds of the previous night at the Marysville Hotel, but
+the partitions between the rooms being only of half-inch plank
+everything passing around us could be heard all too
+plainly.&nbsp; A little after midnight some fellows came in from
+night-fishing, and going into the room next ours woke us up by a
+great noise.&nbsp; One old donkey was telling the two younger
+ones he had had a deal of experience among snakes, killing as
+many as eight a day for many years, and that as the result of a
+series of experiments during that time he had found an infallible
+cure for snake bites.&nbsp; He had offered his discovery to the
+Government for &pound;1,000, and his partner offered to be
+poisoned by the most deadly snakes to test its efficacy, but all
+to no purpose.&nbsp; So he had determined to let the secret die
+with him.&nbsp; The others asked if the sovereign remedy was to
+be swallowed.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh, no,&rdquo; said the old fellow,
+&ldquo;for it is composed of five deadly poisons.&nbsp; You must
+first cut out the wounded part, and rub the antidote in.&nbsp;
+But,&rdquo; added he, &ldquo;the secret shall now die with
+me.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;But how about your partner?&rdquo; asked
+the others.&nbsp; &ldquo;Won&rsquo;t he tell the
+secret?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh no,&rdquo; was the reply;
+&ldquo;he&rsquo;s safe enough, for he&rsquo;s dead.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Then we heard the voice of the landlord&rsquo;s pretty daughter
+telling them it was time to go to sleep, upon which the old boy
+growled, <a name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+59</span>&ldquo;I wonder people can&rsquo;t go to sleep without
+bothering me.&rdquo;&nbsp; The rest of the night was made
+miserable for us by the two &ldquo;night fishers,&rdquo; who,
+rising long before dawn, went prowling about the different rooms,
+ours included, collecting their tackle for a shooting expedition,
+but leaving behind them, as we found afterwards, their percussion
+caps.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p57.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Lyre Bird"
+title=
+"The Lyre Bird"
+src="images/p57.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We returned to Melbourne by another route, affording us some
+fine views of the plains called Yarra Flats, and the Marysville
+Hills in the far distance.</p>
+<h2><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+60</span>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+<p>At the end of January we left Melbourne for a few weeks&rsquo;
+tour in Tasmania, taking steamer from the wharf on the Yarra
+Yarra, the river upon which the capital of Victoria is
+situated.</p>
+<p>The banks of the Yarra have been selected as the scene of the
+operations of all the most offensive trades in the
+colony&mdash;the bone boilers, tanners, fellmongers, candle
+makers, chemical manure makers, glue manufacturers, etc., in
+addition to which all the sewage which is not left on the surface
+of the streets is run into it.&nbsp; The river is very narrow,
+the fall to the sea extremely slight, and the traffic great,
+hence at every revolution of the paddle-wheel or screw-propeller
+the abominations from the depths below are stirred up and mingled
+with those coming from the before-named savoury factories,
+forming a more horrible compound than ever proceeded from
+witches&rsquo; cauldron.&nbsp; In this one respect the New World
+has certainly shot far ahead of the old, for even the memory of
+ancient Cologne is made savoury to the nostrils by this colonial
+stench.</p>
+<p><a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>Our
+friends came to say good-bye, and brought quite a sack of peaches
+and apricots, which were very acceptable during the voyage.&nbsp;
+If there were on board any roysterers or betting men they had no
+opportunity for displaying their peculiarities.&nbsp; Until we
+reached the entrance to the river Tamar almost every person on
+board was ill, for Bass&rsquo;s Straits is notorious for its
+disagreeable cross seas.</p>
+<p>Launceston is forty miles up the river, and is the capital of
+the county of Cornwall, as in England.&nbsp; The scenery along
+the river banks is very beautiful, and is so exactly like the
+Truro river at home that it is difficult to believe we are out of
+England.&nbsp; The river is winding and broad, and the shores
+slope gently down from high ground covered with trees.&nbsp; Here
+and there are bright green meadows and villages and scattered
+farmsteads and churches.&nbsp; I saw nothing in Victoria to
+compare with it.</p>
+<p>Launceston, a quiet city of 10,000 inhabitants, is surrounded
+by hills.&nbsp; Looking down upon it, one is reminded of Florence
+from Fiesole, the beautiful climate and clear air being quite
+Italian, with the lovely Tamar winding its circuitous route for
+miles away.&nbsp; We drove out towards a place called the
+&ldquo;Devil&rsquo;s Punch Bowl,&rdquo; walking the last mile
+through a beautiful wood down a hill, with firs, gum trees, etc.,
+in abundance, with here and there delightful glimpses of green
+glades.&nbsp; The air was filled with the sounds of the tree
+locusts and the tremendous hissing noise of the cicadas, the sun
+shining through the trees and producing a temperature and light
+which were simply perfect.&nbsp; The only drawback is the
+presence of snakes, which, our driver said, are very <a
+name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>abundant
+here.&nbsp; The scene is truly English.&nbsp; At the bottom of
+the little wooded valley we came upon an old wooden shanty, where
+we tried to get a glass of milk, but there was no one at
+home.&nbsp; Presently an old man appeared, driving cows.&nbsp; We
+asked him for milk&mdash;he had none, but gave us water, and
+offered raw eggs.&nbsp; My companion took two, and said he liked
+them, but I am sure he liked the first best.&nbsp; The old man
+was seventy-three years of age, and lived there alone, sleeping
+on a door covered with an opossum rug.&nbsp; He told us his
+master died there close by the bee-hives a few weeks ago,
+&ldquo;so,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;I put the bees in deep
+mourning, or they would all have left.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I wrote my notes sitting on a gatepost, out of the way of
+snakes; the moon shone brightly, and in the distance I could hear
+the church bells, mingled with the voices of children, the
+tinkling of cowbells, and barking of dogs.</p>
+<p>The shops close at six o&rsquo;clock, but the public-houses of
+course remain open.&nbsp; I observed a small fruit-shop, a mere
+shanty, with the sign of &ldquo;Pomona&rsquo;s Temple,&rdquo; and
+a hairdresser&rsquo;s saloon with the high-sounding name of
+&ldquo;Tonsorial Palace,&rdquo; while a democratic opponent in
+the same street, with a proud humility, called his place of
+business a &ldquo;Barber&rsquo;s Shop.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Strolling in the town one evening I talked with a policeman,
+who was an almost exact counterpart of Count Moltke.&nbsp; He had
+just received his new regulation helmet, and did not like it at
+all: it was hard and heavy.&nbsp; He was very pleased to hear we
+liked Tasmania better than Victoria.&nbsp; &ldquo;Ah,&rdquo; said
+he, &ldquo;you will find real hospitality here; here everybody
+helps everybody, but <a name="page63"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 63</span>in Melbourne everybody helps himself,
+and the bobby or somebody catches the hindmost.&rdquo;&nbsp; He
+said he had been a policeman for twenty years, and,
+&ldquo;although I say it as shouldn&rsquo;t, I will say for the
+Launceston police, they are the most civillest, honestest body of
+policemen going,&rdquo; with which I quite agreed.</p>
+<p>Another beautiful ride is to the Cora Linn, seven miles from
+Launceston.&nbsp; On one side of the road, stretching almost the
+whole distance, is a hedge of sweetbriar, giving forth delicious
+perfume.&nbsp; It is difficult to get accustomed to the reversal
+of the seasons; here in February the farmers are busy cutting and
+saving their corn, but with no fear of rain to spoil their
+harvest, as in England.&nbsp; A bridge crosses the Linn, and a
+cataract-like stream tumbles down over rocks, very much like the
+Lynn at Lynmouth.&nbsp; Below the bridge is a deep basin, and all
+around are numbers of queer trees, young and old, with many
+burnt-out trunks black as negroes, with white spots in them like
+eyes.&nbsp; The trees and shrubs are full of <i>cicadas</i>
+making a great noise.</p>
+<p>Leaving Launceston, we drove to Falmouth, ninety miles
+away.&nbsp; The road lies through a beautifully-wooded country;
+indeed, the entire ride is just like going through a park in
+England.&nbsp; We saw lots of magpies, very much larger than
+ours, but quite as mischievous.&nbsp; A gentleman told us a
+person once asked him to change a sovereign, which he did, and
+then looked for the sovereign, but it could not be seen.&nbsp;
+Presently, looking up, he saw Master Mag in a shrub, with one eye
+shut, his head on one side, and standing on one leg, with the
+piece of gold in his mouth.</p>
+<p><a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>Our
+first night&rsquo;s stopping-place was at Stoney Creek, where
+there is a comfortable hotel, just like a private house, with
+only one other house for miles around.&nbsp; Near to the hotel
+flows the River Esk, a black, silent, swiftly-flowing and
+suicidal-looking stream, suggestive in its motion of some huge
+black snake, of which there are many in the neighbourhood.&nbsp;
+In crossing a field to look at the river our clothes became
+covered with burrs and spines from the prickly pear.&nbsp; We sat
+down on a grassy mound to watch the flowing of the river, but had
+quickly to move, as we found ourselves in the midst of a colony
+of great ants.&nbsp; The following verses were written on the
+occasion by one of my companions:</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p64.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES&mdash;A POEM"
+title=
+"THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES&mdash;A POEM"
+src="images/p64.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span>THOU AND
+I.</p>
+<p>Thou art in happy England<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; With peace, content, and joy,<br />
+And there no poisonous reptiles<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Thy comfort can destroy;<br />
+No hissing sound the startled ear<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; With fear of death awakes&mdash;<br />
+Thou art in happy England,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; I, in the land of snakes.</p>
+<p>About thy household duties<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Serenely thou canst go,<br />
+No fear of fierce tarantulas<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Or scorpion brings thee woe;<br />
+And day by day flows calmly on,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And sleep wings through the night&mdash;<br />
+Thou art in happy England,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; I, where mosquitos bite.</p>
+<p>Thou hast the trusty faithful dog,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The quiet, harmless cat,<br />
+But I the fierce Tasmanian D&mdash;,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Opossum, and wombat;<br />
+Familiar objects greet thy sight,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Here all is strange and new&mdash;<br />
+Thou art in happy England,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; I, with the kangaroo.</p>
+<p>Thou hast the blithe canary,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The robin chirps to thee,<br />
+While here the magpies chatter<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And rail from every tree;<br />
+Bright parrots glint beneath the sun,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And shriek their hideous song&mdash;<br />
+Thou art in happy England,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; I, wattle-birds among.</p>
+<p>Thou canst recline in any place,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And watch the moments pass,<br />
+Here burrs and prickles fill the clothes<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; While lying on the grass,<br />
+They stick into the flesh, and sting<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Like gnat, or wasp, or bee&mdash;<br />
+But thou in happy England<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; From all such plagues art free.</p>
+<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>Hurrah
+for happy England,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; For all the folk at home!<br />
+From hill and dale resounds the cry,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; No matter where we roam.<br />
+Rare scenes of beauty greet the sight,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The balmy air is sweet,<br />
+But still I sigh for England<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Where thou and I shall meet.</p>
+<p>DR. L&mdash;.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The landlady was a widow, her husband having recently
+died.&nbsp; Her son had just returned from sea, where he had been
+for twelve years.&nbsp; He had been wrecked three times, and the
+last time should have given him enough of the sea for the rest of
+his life.&nbsp; It was in the ship &ldquo;Euxine,&rdquo; taking
+3,000 tons of coal to the Mauritius.&nbsp; She took fire off the
+Cape of Good Hope in the midst of a terrific storm.&nbsp; The
+captain was washed overboard and drowned; a sailor was also swept
+away, and while only twenty feet from the ship was attacked by a
+flock of albatrosses, right in sight of his comrades.&nbsp; He
+fought with them, but all in vain, and the wretches literally
+pulled him in pieces with their strong bills in a very few
+minutes.&nbsp; The crew got out the boats, but of course they
+were in a bad state.&nbsp; It was, however, a choice between
+burning and drowning, so they put off, preferring to risk the
+latter.&nbsp; After two or three days, two of the boats were
+picked up, but the third was out for eleven days.&nbsp; The poor
+wretches on board had nothing whatever to eat, and in their
+extremity were driven to cast lots which among them should
+die.&nbsp; One unhappy man was disposed of, and in two hours
+after a ship came in sight and picked them up.</p>
+<p><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>A
+lovely drive through Epping Forest brought us to Avoca, where
+&ldquo;the bright waters meet,&rdquo; the North and South Esk
+uniting here.&nbsp; Our route lay along a fine road, through
+avenues of gum trees, wattles (acacias), cultivated for their
+bark, the sweetbriars and hawthorns scenting the air
+delightfully.&nbsp; We saw a splendid eagle, and large numbers of
+parrots, magpies, and hawks.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p67.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Avoca"
+title=
+"Avoca"
+src="images/p67.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>On our way we passed many residences of great woolgrowers,
+owning as much as 20,000 acres of land each, but living, for the
+most part, in England, their affairs in the Colony being managed
+by agents.&nbsp; They keep only one man on each 5,000
+acres.&nbsp; There is scarcely any agriculture, although the land
+is very suitable, but being taken up in this way, there is no
+room for population to increase, and the people have to
+emigrate.</p>
+<p>At Fingal we stopped at an hotel, kept by an Irishman married
+to a Jewess.&nbsp; They presided at either end of the table, and
+kept us short of food; indeed, I never saw a <a
+name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>small joint
+go so far before.&nbsp; Next day we left the hotel, still hungry,
+although the charges were quite as high as those at the Great
+Western Hotel, Paddington.</p>
+<p>Soon after leaving Fingal we saw something by the roadside
+which looked very like a snake, and on examining it we found it
+was one&mdash;a black snake, 4ft. 6in. long.&nbsp; It lay
+perfectly still, and presently we found it was dead; but the
+sensation was not pleasant.&nbsp; A gentleman at the hotel told
+us he had killed four the night previously, and doubtless this
+was one of them.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page69"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 69</span>
+<a href="images/p68.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"St. Mary&rsquo;s"
+title=
+"St. Mary&rsquo;s"
+src="images/p68.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After passing through the charming village of St.
+Mary&rsquo;s, embowered in trees, we entered a lovely avenue, two
+miles in length, filled with beautiful flowers and ferns, the air
+laden with scents from the gum and other trees, and on emerging
+came upon St. Mary&rsquo;s Pass.&nbsp; This is an immense gorge,
+four miles long, filled with fine trees, the road, which is
+remarkably good, being cut in the side of the cliff by convicts
+in the old days of Van Diemen&rsquo;s Land.&nbsp; It winds down
+the valley to the sea at Falmouth, and on either side rise lofty
+hills, while the valley below is 1,000 feet deep, and filled with
+immense trees of various kinds, including the tree fern.&nbsp; I
+have seen most of the passes and valleys in the Tyrol, but have
+never seen one to excel this in grandeur or beauty.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p69.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Falmouth Hotel"
+title=
+"Falmouth Hotel"
+src="images/p69.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>In the map the word &ldquo;Falmouth&rdquo; was printed in
+rather large letters, so we expected to find a somewhat
+considerable place.&nbsp; At the head of the pass we were told
+the township lay between the foot of the hill and the sea.&nbsp;
+On getting down the hill we could plainly view the sea and the
+intervening land, but no town was visible.&nbsp; Inquiring of
+some little boys the way to Falmouth, they directed us away to
+the right.&nbsp; We went on, feeling assured we were going wrong;
+and presently, meeting a gentleman, we inquired again, when he
+told <a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>us to
+retrace our course, to go through an ordinary field gate, and
+that we should then get to Falmouth in three minutes!&nbsp; We
+told him that the little boys had directed us the other way, but
+he said we should have asked for &ldquo;Hotel.&rdquo;&nbsp; The
+town of Falmouth, where the boys lived, consisted of two or three
+houses, and was a mile from the hotel.&nbsp; On exploring the
+place next day we were informed that fifty years before it was
+much more important than now.&nbsp; Miles of streets were marked
+out, but were grass-grown, and there were not more than a dozen
+houses in the place, all built of wood, and of one storey in
+height.&nbsp; The burying-place for the district is about a mile
+away, on the open common, each grave being surrounded with
+stakes, with no wall or fence enclosing the whole.&nbsp; It was a
+melancholy sight, reminding me strongly of the graves on the
+battlefields of the Franco-German war.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p70.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Burial-Place at Falmouth"
+title=
+"Burial-Place at Falmouth"
+src="images/p70.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>The
+beach and sands are very fine, like those of my native
+county.&nbsp; The bathing is delightful, but you must keep a
+sharp look out for sharks.&nbsp; One morning, however, while
+bathing, we stood in much greater danger from the mad folly of
+some Cockneys who had recently come to the hotel.&nbsp; We had
+been bathing in an arm of the sea, the point beyond which it was
+not safe being marked by a stake driven into the sand.&nbsp;
+Between our bathing place and the hotel was a high sand bank,
+screening us from sight, the stake being visible from the
+verandah of the hotel.&nbsp; After dressing, we were leisurely
+walking up the sandbank towards the hotel, when we were startled
+by a bullet passing between our heads and lodging in the sand
+behind us!&nbsp; We threw up our towels and shouted, and then saw
+the Cockney sportsman standing on the platform under the
+verandah, from whence he had been aiming at the stake in the sand
+with his rifle for the past half hour.&nbsp; On examination we
+found the sand riddled with bullets, not 50ft. from where we had
+been bathing.&nbsp; The little burying ground possessed a new
+significance in our eyes after this incident.&nbsp; We found some
+beautiful sea-shells during a delightful walk along the beach
+towards Swansea, and on our return called upon the gentleman who
+put us right for Falmouth on our arrival.&nbsp; He is a farmer
+from near Oxford, and had been here seven or eight years, finding
+it a terribly lonely place.&nbsp; Recently his nine children and
+his servants took the measles, and his wife being ill, he had to
+nurse them all.&nbsp; When they got well his wife sickened and
+died, leaving him with seven daughters and two sons, the eldest
+being only fourteen years old.&nbsp; The nearest doctor lived
+more than thirty miles away.</p>
+<p><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>In
+order to get to Hobart Town, we had to retrace our steps some
+sixty miles, as there is only one road on this side of the
+island.&nbsp; We stayed a night at Avoca, a charming place, but
+the roads were a foot deep in dust.&nbsp; Although the climate is
+so fine, and everything favours the growth of fruit, there is
+very little grown.&nbsp; It is alleged that fruit trees do not
+prosper, but I had ample evidence that the cause is to be found
+in the indifference or laziness of the people.&nbsp; Strolling in
+the neighbourhood of the village, we came upon a beautiful
+orchard, and were admiring the large, ripe plums, when a voice
+behind said, &ldquo;Walk in, gentlemen, and help
+yourselves.&rdquo;&nbsp; The speaker was a hearty old man, who
+had lived here forty-six years.&nbsp; He came from Ledbury, and
+was much interested in hearing about Birmingham.&nbsp; He told us
+that the day before he left England he walked from Ledbury to
+Birmingham to see the Nelson statue in the Bull Ring.</p>
+<p>The old man told us a snake story, which strikingly
+illustrates the vitality of these reptiles.&nbsp; A short time
+previously he and his son went across a neighbouring mountain on
+horseback to visit one of their farms.&nbsp; Going &ldquo;single
+file&rdquo; between the trees, the son, who was leading, suddenly
+called out to his father, &ldquo;Look out, there&rsquo;s a
+snake,&rdquo; and at the same instant his horse started.&nbsp;
+The old gentleman got off, and finding it was a &ldquo;carpet
+snake,&rdquo;&mdash;one of the most venomous species&mdash;caught
+up a stick, and aimed a blow at it.&nbsp; The stick however was
+rotten, and broke without hurting the reptile, which now prepared
+to strike; but the old man managed to get his heel upon its head,
+and ground it into the earth; and having, as he thought, killed
+it, tied a <a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+73</span>piece of string around its middle, and bending a wattle
+tree down, attached the end of the string to one of the branches,
+and then released the tree.&nbsp; They thought no more of the
+matter until three days after, when two of his men, returning
+from his farm with a cart, were seen by their master dragging a
+snake behind the cart.&nbsp; He asked them where they caught it;
+they explained that while coming down the hill side, their
+attention was arrested by a snake in a tree clashing towards
+them, but unable to release itself.&nbsp; On examination, they
+found it was tied up!&nbsp; &ldquo;So that after all,&rdquo; said
+the old man, &ldquo;it was only scotched, not killed.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>A fellow-traveller on the coach told us that he was coming
+from the tin mines near Mount Bischoff, and that for some months
+he and his partner had slept in hammocks slung from trees.&nbsp;
+One night, just as he was going to sleep, something dropped from
+the tree across his body.&nbsp; He took it in his hand, and
+finding it was a snake, he flung it from him, when it alighted on
+his companion.&nbsp; Luckily, both escaped unhurt.&nbsp; He also
+told me of the experience of a friend of his, a Government
+surveyor, who was frequently in the woods for weeks together,
+with one or two men.&nbsp; This gentleman slept in a hammock
+suspended from trees.&nbsp; The hammock was in reality a sack,
+hanging some feet from the ground, into which he got at
+night.&nbsp; One night he had retired as usual, and being very
+wearied, did not at once notice that there was independent
+movement at his feet.&nbsp; Very soon, however, he realised the
+fact that a snake had gone to bed before him, and was coiling
+itself round his legs.&nbsp; The gentleman quickly got out,
+unhurt, and soon killed the snake.</p>
+<p><a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>I also
+read in a colonial paper another account of a night adventure
+with a snake.&nbsp; A lady had retired to rest, and was fast
+asleep; the weather being very hot, one of her arms was outside
+the clothes, and during the night she was awakened by feeling
+something trying to force its way between her arm and her side;
+she quickly realised the situation, and without moving, tightly
+pressed her arm against her body and prevented the venomous
+reptile from getting between, when presently it glided over her
+shoulder and fell on the floor with a thud.&nbsp; She was soon
+out of bed at the other end, and calling for help and a light the
+snake was quickly despatched.</p>
+<p>The doctor in this place has charge of a district sixty miles
+in diameter, and always expects his fees before leaving his
+house; but although he has so large a district, I question if he
+makes his fortune, for although acres are many, people are few,
+and the salubrity of the climate does not favour the medical
+profession.</p>
+<p>The main road between Launceston and Hobart is struck at
+Willis&rsquo;s Corner, a few miles from Campbelltown&mdash;the
+principal town in the interior of the island.&nbsp; There is a
+station here on the main-line railway.&nbsp; The gauge of the
+line is thirty-nine inches, I think.</p>
+<p>Campbelltown is a straggling place, with streets enough laid
+out for a city, but with only few houses, and it is not likely
+many more will be built, as the railway is expected to take away
+its trade, which depends mainly upon the coach traffic.&nbsp; The
+streets are about one hundred and twenty feet wide, which is
+greatly in excess of all requirements, and causes the traffic <a
+name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>to run in
+ruts, instead of being distributed over the roadway, giving a
+desolate appearance to the whole place.&nbsp; As a rule, the
+Tasmanian roads are very good, having been made in the old days
+by convict labour, but you must not venture to mention the word
+&ldquo;convict;&rdquo; the people all speak of these public works
+as having been executed by Government.&nbsp; Having had so much
+done for them by the Government, the Tasmanian people are lacking
+in energy, and are much too prone to rely upon outside help; and
+yet when Melbourne people come over to invest capital in mines
+and other industries, the cry is that the strangers are taking
+all the money out of the country.&nbsp; As I have said, the farms
+are of a great size, but the number of men engaged are but
+few.&nbsp; The farmers have two great enemies&mdash;the thistle
+and the rabbit.&nbsp; It is said the former was introduced into
+the colonies by a patriotic Scotchman, to remind him of his
+bonnie Scotland, the rabbit being introduced for the purpose of
+sport; but, like our old friend the sparrow, they have so
+increased as to be the cause of serious loss, and are the
+subjects of special legislation.&nbsp; Some landowners spend many
+thousands of pounds in putting walls around their estates to keep
+the rabbits out.</p>
+<p>From Campbelltown to Hobart is seventy-six miles, and we rode
+the whole distance in a single day.&nbsp; The country is very
+beautiful, and towards the end of the journey we had fine
+mountain and river scenery.&nbsp; The Derwent is a splendid
+river, running through a lovely country, sometimes through rich
+pasture lands and hop gardens, and at other times between high
+precipices and rugged country.</p>
+<p><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>Mount
+Wellington is a remarkably fine mountain of 4,000 feet in height,
+and is topped with snow for a considerable portion of the
+winter.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p76.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Summit of Mount Wellington"
+title=
+"Summit of Mount Wellington"
+src="images/p76.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Villages are very scarce on the road, and shops few, so the
+inhabitants get most of their requirements from hawkers, who
+visit all parts of the island with horses and vans, carrying all
+kinds of goods.&nbsp; We passed several with their wares spread
+out on the ground.&nbsp; Our coachman told us rather a good story
+of two of these &ldquo;merchants,&rdquo; as they are usually
+called.&nbsp; These men travelled the road together as partners,
+having a standing agreement between them that only one should get
+drunk at a time, so that they were not unfrequently seen riding,
+one of them as drunk as a lord or a <a name="page77"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 77</span>fiddler, while the other was
+perfectly sober, but merry.&nbsp; One day, however, they broke
+the rule, and both got drunk together, letting their horse go
+just as it liked.&nbsp; Unhappily, as they were turning a corner
+in the road, a coach came bowling along and ran into them,
+breaking their van and many of their bones, besides spoiling most
+of their stock-in-trade.&nbsp; The coachman could not tell us if
+the accident had the effect of making the men teetotallers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p77.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"View in the Public Gardens, Hobart"
+title=
+"View in the Public Gardens, Hobart"
+src="images/p77.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Hobart (as Hobart Town is now called) is most beautifully
+situated, with extensive public gardens, charmingly laid out, and
+having the advantage of an abundance of water from the River
+Derwent.&nbsp; The Governor&rsquo;s house is admirably placed,
+commanding extensive views of river and mountain scenery.&nbsp;
+The citizens are exceedingly hospitable, and we were not long at
+the hotel before we were visited by a gentleman who informed us
+he had entered our names on the books of the principal club, and
+also invited us to a grand representation of
+&ldquo;Martha.&rdquo;&nbsp; There are many charming excursions in
+the neighbourhood of Hobart.&nbsp; One of <a
+name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>the most
+beautiful is to New Norfolk, about two and a half hours&rsquo;
+steam up the Derwent river.&nbsp; As we approach New Norfolk the
+river gets very narrow, and we pass through a part called
+&ldquo;Hell Gates,&rdquo; having steep lofty cliffs on one side,
+and a beautiful tongue of land with trees and lovely green grass
+on the other.&nbsp; The name I thought particularly ill
+chosen.</p>
+<p>The village of New Norfolk is prettily situated among the
+hills, with the lovely Derwentwater at its feet.&nbsp; Its
+principal industry is the growing of hops.&nbsp; We went into the
+gardens, and saw the people busily picking the hops, which were
+very fine.</p>
+<p>Another beautiful excursion is to Fern Tree Valley, a lovely
+spot with a fine avenue of tree ferns, and with many immense gum
+trees in the surrounding woods.</p>
+<p>There being no steamer to Sydney or Melbourne for a week, we
+drove over the road to Launceston, 120 miles distant.&nbsp; Soon
+after leaving Hobart we crossed the River Jordan, passed through
+Jericho, near to Jerusalem, stopping at Bagdad for breakfast.</p>
+<p>Although February had just gone, the weather was still
+intensely hot.&nbsp; The harvest was nearly over, and the wheat
+looked beautiful.&nbsp; I saw some eight feet high, and a person
+told me he had frequently seen it grow as high as ten feet.&nbsp;
+Lunching at Melton Mowbray, we came on to Oatlands, driving the
+last few miles by moonlight, the night being very cool.</p>
+<p>At Oatlands is a large gaol, where in old times a number of
+England&rsquo;s sons were confined, many of them having been sent
+there for political &ldquo;offences,&rdquo; which in our happier
+times have conducted the best <a name="page79"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 79</span>of Englishmen to the Council Board at
+Windsor.&nbsp; The gaol is now almost untenanted.&nbsp; In
+passing along we saw the ruins of many of the miserable old
+barracks, where the convicts used to live.&nbsp; Everything looks
+half finished, and I have scarcely seen one window blind
+furnished with cords for winding; they roll them up and pin them,
+consequently the blind is full of pin holes.&nbsp; We stopped a
+night at the best hotel in Campbelltown, a really well-appointed
+house; but on trying to open the front door, the knob came off in
+my hand!&nbsp; We greatly enjoyed our three weeks&rsquo; stay in
+Tasmania; in many respects it is more interesting than the
+mainland, while the climate is much more agreeable to
+Englishmen.&nbsp; A pleasant passage of twenty hours brought us
+to Melbourne again, and the weather being still very hot, we
+decided to go on to Sydney by steamer.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p79.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Our Waiter at Campbelltown"
+title=
+"Our Waiter at Campbelltown"
+src="images/p79.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+80</span>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+<p>The run down Hobson&rsquo;s Bay to Port Philip Heads takes
+about four hours, and just inside the mouth of the harbour are
+two little watering-places, much frequented by the citizens of
+Melbourne.</p>
+<p>Presently we come to a curious feature in the water.&nbsp; The
+currents of the bay and those of the open sea meet, and produce
+at their junction the phenomenon locally known as &ldquo;The
+Rip.&rdquo;&nbsp; All at once, as the steamer comes out of the
+bay, we pass from smooth water into the regular waves of the sea;
+there is almost a wall between, and as the vessel passes through
+it a rushing sound is heard, the vessel instantly beginning to
+roll and pitch.&nbsp; In rough weather passing through &ldquo;The
+Rip&rdquo; is quite exciting, the water frequently rushing over
+the decks.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p81.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Sydney Harbour"
+title=
+"Sydney Harbour"
+src="images/p81.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After a voyage of a little more than two days, we arrived
+outside the heads of Port Jackson or Sydney Harbour.&nbsp;
+Everyone has heard of the extreme beauty <a
+name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>of this
+glorious harbour; indeed if the visitor stays a few days in the
+city he is likely to hear of it many times.&nbsp; The entrance is
+about a mile in width, between bold cliffs 250 feet in
+height.&nbsp; It has a coast line of more than 100 miles, and is
+full of beautiful creeks and bays, with their banks finely wooded
+to the water&rsquo;s edge, and having numerous handsome villas
+picturesquely placed upon every point of vantage, the city being
+situated at the head of the bay.&nbsp; The old town of Sydney is
+very badly laid out, with narrow, crooked streets, while the
+pavements and roads are most execrable, and the drainage and
+water supply are as bad as they can well be.&nbsp; The public
+buildings, and the modern portion of the city, are very fine, the
+post-office in particular being a very handsome edifice,
+infinitely superior to the new post-office in Birmingham; but
+then the citizens of Sydney built their own, while the citizens
+of Birmingham were not consulted, and had to accept what the
+London architect was graciously pleased to bestow.</p>
+<p>Next to the harbour, the public gardens of Sydney form its
+principal attraction.&nbsp; The Botanical Gardens are exceedingly
+fine, and contain a magnificent collection of almost every known
+tree that will stand the climate.&nbsp; A special feature is the
+Norfolk Island pine, which grows to a great height, perfectly
+straight, and with very regular branches.&nbsp; The gardens are
+finely situated on undulating ground, sloping down to the
+harbour, which is sufficiently deep 200 yards off to float
+men-of-war.&nbsp; From these gardens a fine view of the
+Governor&rsquo;s house and of other parts of the city is
+obtained.&nbsp; There is also a beautiful view from the
+Observatory Hill, which the Sydney people are justly <a
+name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>proud of, for
+it can scarcely be equalled in any other part of the world.&nbsp;
+The harbour, with its numerous islands, lies spread out before
+the eyes, while the greatest animation is given to the scene by
+the large number of little steamers, yachts, and sail-boats
+continually flitting about, for the youth of Sydney are truly
+British in their love of the water.&nbsp; While we were admiring
+this panorama one morning, an old gentleman, observing we were
+strangers, pointed out the various objects of interest.&nbsp;
+Presently one of our party observing a strange cloud in the
+hitherto cloudless sky, called the old man&rsquo;s attention to
+it.&nbsp; At first he thought it was a bush fire away to the
+south, but in a minute he said, &ldquo;Come on, we had better get
+under shelter, for it is a &lsquo;southerly
+buster!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>A &ldquo;southerly buster&rdquo; is one of the institutions of
+Sydney, and is a hurricane of wind: which comes up suddenly from
+the south, bringing clouds of dust from the brickfields lying on
+that side of the city.&nbsp; We had long been wishing to see a
+genuine example, and here it was with a vengeance.&nbsp; In less
+time than it takes to describe, the whole city and harbour were
+completely obscured by a tremendous cloud of dust, blown on at a
+great pace, roaring like a furnace, and carrying before it
+sticks, paper, and even small gravel, which strike with the force
+of hailstones.&nbsp; During the twenty minutes which the
+hurricane lasts umbrellas are perfectly useless, and every person
+and thing becomes completely covered with dust.&nbsp; Having
+experienced the &ldquo;buster&rdquo; once, we have no desire for
+a repetition.</p>
+<p>Sydney is fortunate in possessing almost inexhaustible
+supplies of oysters, and the old gentleman referred <a
+name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 84</span>to above told
+us they sometimes grew on trees!&nbsp; There is a tree called the
+Mangrove, which grows very plentifully on the banks of the
+Parramatta river; sometimes the water is very high for days
+together, and the oyster spawn gets fixed in the mud on the
+branches, and so they grow and are gathered in their season.</p>
+<p>One of the most delightful excursions from Sydney is to the
+top of the Blue Mountains, where there are several villages and
+some exceedingly fine and interesting scenery.&nbsp; The summit
+of the mountains is about 3,500ft. above sea-level, and is
+seventy miles from Sydney, being reached by a picturesque zigzag
+railway.&nbsp; In the old convict days it was commonly supposed
+by the prisoners that China lay on the other side of the Blue
+Mountain range, and many of the wretched men lost their lives in
+the jungle in trying to escape to the celestial country; one
+party succeeded in getting to a considerable distance before the
+guard overtook them, and one of them was found to have in his
+possession an engraving of a compass, by which he expected to
+steer his way!</p>
+<p>The railway from Sydney passes many charming villages and
+extensive orange groves, crossing the River Nepean by a handsome
+iron bridge.</p>
+<p>Some of the hotels on the mountain are of a very primitive
+character.&nbsp; One of those in which we stayed was a
+single-storied building, with bed-rooms opening into the
+yard.&nbsp; The house was built of planks, and the partitions
+were not very thick.&nbsp; I found that the landlord was the
+brother of an English tradesman with whom I do business.&nbsp;
+They had not heard of one another <a name="page86"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 86</span>for forty years, which was a
+suspicious circumstance, considering the history of the
+colony.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p85.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cottage at Mount Victoria"
+title=
+"Cottage at Mount Victoria"
+src="images/p85.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>In the fireplace of our sitting room we found a
+&ldquo;gin&rdquo; set for rats, which during the night were quite
+lively.&nbsp; One morning we observed that our waiter seemed to
+be very anxious for us to finish our breakfast.&nbsp; Presently
+he asked if we had finished with the coffee-pot, saying that all
+the others had been sent to be mended, and as he had a rather
+particular couple in the next room, he did not like to take in
+the coffee in a tea-pot!</p>
+<p>At Mount Victoria, the highest village on the mountain, there
+are good State schools, to which the children come for
+twenty-five miles round from the villages along the
+railway.&nbsp; Both schools and railways in New South Wales
+belong to the State, and the schoolchildren are allowed to ride
+free by all trains.&nbsp; Even the goods trains have carriages
+attached for the use of the children, and the school hours are
+arranged to enable them to take advantage of the trains.&nbsp;
+Mount Victoria is a beautiful village, where many of the wealthy
+citizens of Sydney have charming residences.&nbsp; It has quite
+an alpine appearance with its wooden houses and tree-clad
+hills.&nbsp; In the neighbourhood are many delightful places, to
+which excursions are made; one of the most interesting is to a
+waterfall called &ldquo;Govett&rsquo;s Leap.&rdquo;&nbsp; The
+road is a very rough one, and goes through the forest, in which
+are numbers of large ant-hills more than 5ft. in height, and
+formed of clay, which has become so hard that a stick makes no
+impression upon them.&nbsp; The entrances for the little
+creatures are very narrow cracks, too narrow for any of <a
+name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>their enemies
+to get through.&nbsp; Sometimes, however, a creature called the
+&ldquo;iguana&rdquo; manages to make its way inside, when he
+always clears the entire colony out.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p87.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Weatherboard Falls"
+title=
+"The Weatherboard Falls"
+src="images/p87.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After a few miles&rsquo; drive along an almost level road, we
+come suddenly upon the edge of a precipice nearly 1,000 feet
+deep, down which the stream falls forming the waterfall.&nbsp;
+The &ldquo;leap&rdquo; is about 500 feet, and almost all the
+water becomes spray before it reaches the bottom, its appearance
+reminding us of the Staubbach Falls at Lauterbrunnen.</p>
+<p>From the precipice a fine view is obtained for many miles
+round.&nbsp; The country is broken up into deep <a
+name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>ravines or
+wide gullies, stretching as far as the eye can reach, and all
+wooded, while, except the little waterfall, not a drop of water
+is to be seen.</p>
+<p>On the other side of Mount Victoria, towards Bathurst, is
+another curious zigzag railway, at the foot of which is the
+village of Lithgow, the seat of iron and coal industries.&nbsp;
+At present the works are of a very primitive character, but I
+have no doubt that at no distant date they will assume important
+proportions.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p88.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Descent to Hartley Vale"
+title=
+"Descent to Hartley Vale"
+src="images/p88.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Outside our hotel door the landlord kept his talking parrot,
+which was always saying to the passers-by, &ldquo;a bucket of
+beer, a bucket of beer.&rdquo;&nbsp; There was a retired
+missionary staying at the hotel with his wife, and one day the
+old lady told me that she thought they might have taught the poor
+thing something &ldquo;more Christian.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>One
+evening some drovers from Bathurst camped for the night near to
+the hotel; they put their cattle into a field, and having taken
+their tents from the packhorses, soon made themselves comfortable
+round their camp-fires, the whole scene being very picturesque
+and gipsy-like.</p>
+<p>This used to be the old coach-road before the railway was
+opened, and many a coach has been stopped and robbed by gangs of
+escaped convicts called bushrangers.&nbsp; People were easily
+frightened in those days.&nbsp; A woman coming out of a cottage
+at night has been known to stop a coach, and snapping the spring
+of an old candlestick has ordered the passengers to &ldquo;bail
+up&rdquo; and to throw the mail-bags out, which being done under
+terror of the supposed pistol, she commanded them to drive on;
+the coachman of course supposing there was a gang of ruffians
+lying in wait.</p>
+<p>Bushrangers are not yet a thing of the past, for while we were
+in Sydney four were sentenced to death for the murder of a
+policeman, who was one of a party sent in pursuit of the
+gang.</p>
+<p>Hard by our hotel is a solitary graveyard, where lie the
+bodies of many convicts who died while confined in a neighbouring
+stockade in the old transportation days.&nbsp; A more desolate
+and melancholy place it would be impossible to imagine.&nbsp;
+Some of the public-houses have queer mottoes on their sign
+boards.&nbsp; We observed three not far apart having these
+inscriptions: &ldquo;Labour in Vain,&rdquo; &ldquo;The Leisure
+Hour,&rdquo; &ldquo;The Rag and Famish.&rdquo;&nbsp; A favourite
+drink amongst the people is sarsaparilla, which is generally
+mentioned on the sign along with the beer.</p>
+<p><a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>There
+are two kinds of birds in the woods about Mount Victoria which
+make a great noise at night; one is called the &ldquo;Great Goat
+Sucker,&rdquo; and continually cries &ldquo;more pork, more
+pork&rdquo;; while the other, called the &ldquo;Laughing
+Jackass,&rdquo; or the great kingfisher, makes night hideous by
+its insane laughter; in the day-time, however, it performs a very
+useful service, in waging perpetual war against the snakes.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p90.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Laughing Jackass"
+title=
+"The Laughing Jackass"
+src="images/p90.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The ants in Australia are rather formidable creatures.&nbsp;
+Some of them are more than an inch in length, and one kind,
+called the &ldquo;bull-dog,&rdquo; is very fierce, and will
+attack anything; he can run backwards or forwards with equal
+facility, and never turns his back to the foe.&nbsp; <a
+name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>Their hills
+are very large, and a slight tap brings numbers of them out at
+once, and unless you want to be well punished, you had better
+leave them quickly, for their bite is something to be
+remembered.&nbsp; One morning while on a walk we observed two
+boys &ldquo;prodding&rdquo; an ant-hill; but by the time we had
+come up to them we found them otherwise engaged, for the
+&ldquo;bulldogs&rdquo; had got up their clothes and were causing
+the boys to jump about as though they were
+&ldquo;possessed;&rdquo; occasionally they would pause and rub
+their legs with great devotion; and altogether it was apparent
+they felt their position keenly.&nbsp; As we passed them they
+gave us a ghastly smile, and I think they will let
+&ldquo;sleeping bull-dogs lie&rdquo; in the future.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p91.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Author Sketching"
+title=
+"The Author Sketching"
+src="images/p91.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>During
+one of my visits to Sydney the political situation was
+this:&mdash;Two questions were before the Parliament and
+country&mdash;viz., an Amended Education Act, and an Excise Act,
+by which latter it was proposed to put a tax upon colonial
+beer.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It happens that a vacancy has occurred in an important
+constituency, and as these questions are greatly agitating the
+whole country, the election is looked forward to with great
+interest as being a sort of test of the public sentiment.&nbsp;
+The Government candidate of course supports the two measures
+above referred to, while the opposition candidate is adverse to
+both, the latter being the largest brewer in the Colony, (which
+of course accounts for his opposing the excise duty on beer) and,
+what is not unusual in the case of brewers, he is a decided
+Churchman, and supporter of what he calls &lsquo;religious
+education.&rsquo;&nbsp; The whole strength of the clergy,
+publicans, bishops, loafers, avowed atheists, Roman Catholic
+archbishop, priests, and Irish is most heartily with the
+Church-loving, beer-brewing candidate, who is socially much
+liked, and very strong.&nbsp; His opponent is supported by the
+whole Liberal party, by large numbers of the Churchmen, and by a
+few Catholics.&nbsp; The Amended Education Act simply provides
+that whereas at present State aid is given to denominational
+schools it shall now be withdrawn.&nbsp; The Bible is not read in
+the schools, but the lesson books of the Irish National Schools
+are used.&nbsp; Facilities are offered to the various
+denominations to give religious instruction to the children in
+the State schools.&nbsp; The bishop and clergy of the Church of
+England and the Roman Catholic priests unite heartily with the
+beer <a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+93</span>interest (as usual), the proposal to tax the beer coming
+in very opportunely to enlist the sympathies and votes of the
+idle, drunken, venal, and dissolute portion of the
+community.&nbsp; The bishop takes an opportunity of stating
+publicly how much he is in favour of temperance, and his clergy
+follow suit; the Catholic clergy do the same, and in the evenings
+clergy of both religious denominations appear at public meetings
+in support of the brewer!&nbsp; The publicans and their followers
+are relieved from saying anything about the tax on beer by the
+existence of the education question, which they heartily oppose,
+thus avoiding the subject in which they have a selfish interest;
+so it comes to this&mdash;Bible says to beer, &lsquo;I&rsquo;ll
+support you, although it is rather inconvenient, for am I not
+pledged to temperance?&rsquo;&nbsp; Beer says to Bible,
+&lsquo;I&rsquo;ll support you with all the strength of my lungs,
+rendered all the noisier by copious draughts of untaxed beer;
+beer and Bible, Bible and beer for ever!&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The Roman Catholic clergy anathematise Protestants of
+all kinds and classes, including the Church of England, but the
+latter joins hands with the Roman Catholics and the beer party to
+gain its ends, the said ends being the same with both
+Churches&mdash;viz., the triumph of priestly rule and
+domination.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The answer of the constituency, applauded throughout the
+length and breadth of the land, was to return the Liberal
+candidate by a majority of two to one.</p>
+<p>In reference to this election the <i>Sydney Morning Herald</i>
+said&mdash;&ldquo;Many of the advocates for the extension and
+maintenance of the denominational schools lay great stress upon
+the doctrine that it is not just to deny denominational schools
+to those who <a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+94</span>prefer them&mdash;that if any citizen pays the education
+tax he ought to have the sort of education provided for his child
+that he most desires, and that it is a wrong-doing to his
+conscience if this claim is not regarded.&nbsp; It is certainly
+somewhat singular that the few advocates of this line of argument
+are to be found in the ranks of the two great churches, which,
+having been national churches, have, to say the least, not
+distinguished themselves by defending the rights of
+conscience.&nbsp; In England the march of religious liberty has
+done much to undo Church-inspired legislation against those
+outside the pale of the Church; and that being achieved it sounds
+strangely to hear the &lsquo;conscience&rsquo; argument against a
+uniform treatment of all citizens proceed from a quarter which
+has not been the home of the rights of conscience.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p94.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Bullock Team on the Blue Mountains"
+title=
+"A Bullock Team on the Blue Mountains"
+src="images/p94.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Before leaving Sydney it may be well to describe an overland
+ride I made from Sydney to Melbourne <i>vi&acirc;</i> Wagga Wagga
+and Albury, at a time previous to the completion of the through
+railway.</p>
+<p><a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>Leaving
+Sydney by the Pullman train at six in the evening, Wagga Wagga is
+reached about ten next morning: During the night we ascended
+2,200ft.&nbsp; A large extent of the country is cleared, and,
+being New Year&rsquo;s Day, it was rather strange to our English
+eyes to see the wheat cut and stacked, and harvesting operations
+going on.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p95.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Bush Hut"
+title=
+"Bush Hut"
+src="images/p95.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The country through which our track passes is famous for its
+sheep runs and for the high quality of the wool produced in
+it.&nbsp; Here and there in the bush are occasional
+labourers&rsquo; cottages, wretched, uncomfortable looking
+buildings, constructed of rough planks covered with bark.&nbsp;
+The children we saw had a very uncared-for look.</p>
+<p><a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>Wagga
+Wagga (pronounced Wogga Wogga) covers a large extent of ground,
+but at present the number of houses is few, most of them,
+however, being well built.&nbsp; From this place we hired a buggy
+and pair of horses to take us to Albury, a distance of some
+seventy to eighty miles, the charge for which, including the
+services of a smart, bright boy as driver, was &pound;7.&nbsp;
+Immediately on leaving Wagga we got into the &ldquo;bush&rdquo;
+country, and during the afternoon passed some large stock
+&ldquo;stations.&rdquo;&nbsp; The land appears to be much more
+fertile than in the neighbourhood of Sydney, with greater depth
+of soil.&nbsp; We put up for the night at Jerra Jerra, a place
+consisting of two or three wood shanties, one of them being the
+hotel, and left at 6.30 next morning, taking breakfast at a
+somewhat larger group of wood huts called Germanton.&nbsp; Every
+driver through the &ldquo;bush&rdquo; makes his own track among
+the trees, and ours was no exception to the rule; he made long
+detours at intervals, only coming out into the regular road when
+a creek had to be crossed.&nbsp; We saw many pairs of large
+magpies, and some other birds which the driver informed us build
+large mud nests.&nbsp; Then the Great Ants, too, are very
+numerous, so that one dare not sit down anywhere to rest.&nbsp;
+The flies are also a great pest, and as my companion said,
+&ldquo;won&rsquo;t take a hint,&rdquo; requiring to be toppled
+over before they will move.&nbsp; At about seven a.m. we passed
+the Royal Mail bowling along amongst the trees, our driver
+quickly making a fresh track to avoid the fearful dust which it
+raised.&nbsp; The coach is a big lumbering machine, painted
+flaring red, and drawn by six horses.&nbsp; It is licensed to
+carry sixty-five passengers, who can <a name="page97"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 97</span>only be got on to it by being packed
+like herrings in a barrel.&nbsp; The weather being so hot and the
+dust so great, it must be terrible to be cooped up in it with fat
+people and thin smokers and others.&nbsp; The coaches are hung
+upon enormous leather &ldquo;springs,&rdquo; and they need them,
+for the road is so rough, and the coachmen are so daring, that
+the bumping and thumping are terrific.&nbsp; Each coach is fitted
+with four large reflector lamps, three in front and one
+behind.</p>
+<p>While baiting the horses I had a chat with a farm labourer,
+who, like a great many of the immigrants with whom I have spoken,
+was sighing for old England again.&nbsp; He told me the ordinary
+farm labourer&rsquo;s wages here are 12s. to 15s. a week with
+board, and that 20s. a week is considered exceptionally good,
+while the great heat, dust, and reptiles are so troublesome that
+most of the labourers wish they were well out of it.&nbsp; This
+man told me his little terrier was killed by a snake a day or two
+before; the poor creature swelled up and died in great agony in
+ten minutes after being bitten; its death, however, was speedily
+avenged, his master killing the snake shortly afterwards.&nbsp;
+The landlady said she was in great terror of the snakes, which
+were very numerous.&nbsp; Near the run was a large log, and it
+was well known that a big black snake had taken up his abode
+there, for he was frequently seen to come out.&nbsp; In the
+winter season the reptile would very soon have been despatched by
+the same process adopted by the Chinaman when he wanted
+&ldquo;roast pig,&rdquo; but this being summer, to fire the log
+meant to cause a general conflagration in the bush.</p>
+<p><a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>The
+power of endurance of Australian post-horses is something
+wonderful; yesterday we travelled more than thirty-five miles
+after one o&rsquo;clock, over a rough bush road, or rather no
+road at all, bumping up and down in a way that must be very
+trying to the poor animals, as the &ldquo;path&rdquo; is never
+certain; and to-day we had to go nearly fifty miles more, the
+heat being intense, and the track covered with dust nearly a foot
+thick.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p98.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"An Up-Country Town"
+title=
+"An Up-Country Town"
+src="images/p98.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Our driver, a mere lad of thirteen years, drove on with the
+greatest confidence, never having missed the way once, though
+there were no direction posts, and we did not come across a
+person or house once in ten miles, and were amongst the trees all
+the time.&nbsp; Towards evening the horses got rather tired, and
+so did poor &ldquo;Tommy,&rdquo; the driver, who at times had a
+quiet &ldquo;weep&rdquo; to himself, but at last we reached
+Albury, and found our Melbourne friend awaiting us at the
+hotel.</p>
+<p><a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>For
+hours before, we had in view a fine range of hills, enclosing a
+large extent of country, including the valley along which the
+River Murray runs.&nbsp; Here we got the blue, purple, and
+roseate tints on the mountains to perfection, and as the sun was
+going down just as we entered the town I thought I had rarely
+seen a more delightful picture.</p>
+<p>There is a thriving, well-to-do look about the place which is
+very enlivening, the houses being well built, with wide verandahs
+projecting from two storeys, the streets straight and wide, and
+planted on both sides with acacias, poplars, and several
+varieties of pines, the whole forming a veritable little
+paradise.</p>
+<p>This being the great centre of the wine-growing industry we
+were desirous of visiting the vineyards and seeing the capacious
+cellars which are formed in the hills, and for which the district
+is somewhat celebrated, but our friend, being very anxious to get
+back to Melbourne, assured us there was &ldquo;nothing to see
+here,&rdquo; and told us to wait till we got into Victoria, and
+so hurried us off.</p>
+<p>We left Albury at 5.30 on the following morning, driving
+across the Murray to the railway station at Wodonga, the first
+town on the Victorian side, as Albury is the last on the New
+South Wales side, and the contrast between the two is great
+indeed&mdash;just the difference between prosperity and
+decay.&nbsp; New South Wales, with its Free Trade policy, is
+fitly represented by bright and shining Albury, while Victoria
+may well read a lesson from the decay and ruin into which Wodonga
+has fallen.&nbsp; I could not help thinking that a dozen such
+contrasts along the frontiers of the two States would do <a
+name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>more than
+anything to settle the fate of Protection.&nbsp; Even the omnibus
+driver was full of the subject, pointing out to us as we rode
+along the difference between the two places.</p>
+<p>The railway ride to Melbourne occupies eight hours, although
+the distance is only about 180 miles.&nbsp; On the way we passed
+through Euroa, the town which was &ldquo;stuck up,&rdquo;
+<i>i.e.</i>, plundered, by the notorious Kelly and his
+gang.&nbsp; There were only four of these fellows in the gang,
+but such was the terror they inspired that they were able to rob
+a whole town in broad daylight, while a train was passing through
+the station close by the bank from which they took a considerable
+amount of cash.&nbsp; Having done this, they next ordered all the
+people into carts, and drove them some miles out of the town,
+ordering them not to stir for four hours under pain of
+death.&nbsp; Having secured their booty the scoundrels rode off,
+and for two years succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the
+police, although the Government offered a reward of &pound;8,000
+for their capture, alive or dead.</p>
+<h2><a name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+101</span>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+<p>Before leaving the subject of the Australian Colonies a few
+observations on the state of the labour market, and upon the
+social condition of the people, may be interesting.</p>
+<p>In most of the Australian colonies Free Trade practically
+prevails, the exception being Victoria.&nbsp; In this colony the
+system of Protection is to be found in its most pronounced form,
+almost every imported article of manufacture being the subject of
+a heavy duty.</p>
+<p>The avowed object of this system is to encourage immigration
+by offering a premium upon the manufacture of every article in
+considerable demand in the Colony.&nbsp; I do not know how far
+this object has been attained as concerns immigration, but it is
+an admitted fact, and one which is causing Victorian politicians
+much anxiety, that the colony fails to retain its
+population.&nbsp; One result about which there can be no question
+is that this fiscal policy is concentrating the population about
+the large towns, the city of Melbourne presenting the appearance
+of the chief town of an old and populous State.&nbsp; A ride in
+any direction into the country, however, soon discloses the real
+nakedness of the land as regards inhabitants, the fact being that
+a <a name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>very
+small proportion of the immigrants ever get beyond the
+towns.&nbsp; An obvious consequence is that the natural resources
+of the country are greatly neglected, and the evil of this state
+of things will be apprehended when it is seen that the
+manufacturing population is increasing in a vastly greater ratio
+than the constituency upon which its trade depends.&nbsp; Under
+such conditions the dangers of the situation are seriously
+augmented when depression of trade occurs.&nbsp; Such a state of
+things arose before the building of the late Exhibition in
+Melbourne.&nbsp; The building trade and the mechanical industries
+in the city being in a stagnant state, large numbers of people
+found themselves out of employment, their attitude causing the
+Government some anxiety.&nbsp; The Exhibition was decided upon in
+the hope that its erection would provide employment until trade
+should revive.&nbsp; I asked one of the Commissioners of the
+Exhibition what would happen if trade did not revive on the
+completion of the building?&nbsp; He replied, &ldquo;Oh, they
+shall take it down again, for it will be useless after the
+Exhibition is over.&rdquo;&nbsp; Surely a notable instance of the
+dog subsisting by eating its own tail.</p>
+<p>A natural result of all this is to produce in the minds of the
+working classes a feeling that the Legislature ought to secure to
+them a constant supply of work at high rates of wages, altogether
+leaving out of consideration the inevitable effect of such a
+course in checking demand.&nbsp; Naturally, each class expects to
+receive the benefit of this policy, and it is not surprising that
+the example of the manufacturers in demanding Protection should
+be followed, and even bettered, by the working men.</p>
+<p><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>A
+curious example of this occurred when I was in Australia.&nbsp;
+The streets of Melbourne, being very wide and long, are
+peculiarly well adapted for the introduction of tramways.&nbsp; A
+Bill was introduced into the House authorising the construction
+of an experimental line, but it had to be abandoned in
+consequence of the determined opposition of the cab drivers, the
+majority of whom own the vehicles which they drive.&nbsp; These
+men argued, naturally enough, that as manufacturing trades were
+protected against foreigners, their business also should be
+protected against competition in the only form in which it could
+arise.&nbsp; Doubtless this resistance will eventually be
+overcome, but not without leaving a sense of injustice.</p>
+<p>While each class seeks to have the benefit of Protection for
+its own manufactures, it also seeks to obtain the benefits of
+Free Trade for the raw material and smaller accessories used in
+their production.&nbsp; At the time I am referring to, a Tariff
+Revision Commission was in session, and representatives of the
+various manufacturing trades were examined with the view of
+ascertaining whether any changes were desirable.&nbsp; In almost
+every case extensive additions to the duty were demanded,
+eliciting from some of the members of the Commission a reminder
+that on previous occasions the representatives of protected
+industries declared they only required the tax to be levied for a
+limited time in order to enable them to establish their
+business.</p>
+<p>The Protectionist newspapers used every means to stir up the
+various trades to avail themselves of the opportunity the
+Commission afforded of making fresh claims.</p>
+<p><a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>It so
+happens that most of the materials used for newspaper printing
+are admitted duty free.&nbsp; The <i>Argus</i>, the leading
+journal in Victoria, and a consistent advocate of Free Trade,
+took this opportunity of suggesting that the proprietors of the
+Protectionist journals should prove the sincerity of their
+expressed opinions by appearing before the Commission and
+demanding the imposition of a tax upon newspaper materials in the
+interests of &ldquo;native industry.&rdquo;&nbsp; Of course the
+suggestion was not adopted, perhaps for this reason, also
+suggested by the <i>Argus</i>, that the struggle for existence
+was already sufficiently severe.</p>
+<p>The operative printers also demanded of the Commission that
+printed books should be more heavily taxed, one of their
+delegates remarking that &ldquo;there was sufficient talent in
+Victoria to produce their own books,&rdquo; while a manufacturer,
+with great candour, asked for a little increase upon his special
+productions on the plea that his profit was not &ldquo;quite
+enough!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>If profits are not enough prices are certainly sufficiently
+high, as the following instance will abundantly show.&nbsp; At
+the close of 1882 one hundred locomotives were required by the
+Government of Victoria, and although the needs of the country
+were most urgent&mdash;complaints of the inefficiency of the
+service coming in from all sides&mdash;the Protectionist party in
+the House demanded that the whole number should be made in the
+Colony, although there was only one firm who could undertake
+their manufacture, and that firm was unable to deliver the first
+engine under a period of ten months, and in addition to this, the
+total price demanded for the contract was &pound;66,000 more than
+the <a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+105</span>engines could have been procured for without delay in
+England.&nbsp; It is admitted that the locomotives made in the
+Colony are much inferior to those imported, while in addition to
+the excess in first cost, the expense of maintaining the colonial
+engines is vastly greater.&nbsp; I was assured by competent
+authorities on the railways that the colonial engines are
+frequently under repair, and that their life is much shorter than
+that of their English rivals.&nbsp; The same evil principle is
+applied to the purchase of the miscellaneous stores supplied to
+the railways, thereby greatly enhancing the cost of
+working.&nbsp; Instances might be multiplied of the mischievous
+effects of a vicious fiscal policy in a young and undeveloped
+Colony.&nbsp; It is notorious that the great want of the Colonies
+is a larger population, and the Government in various
+ways&mdash;notably by making grants in aid of
+immigration&mdash;offer inducements to bring this result
+about.&nbsp; The manufacturers also require a larger field for
+their productions; but the working-class element is jealous of
+this very increase lest it should subject labour to competition,
+unmindful of the fact that there is ample room for an infinitely
+larger population.</p>
+<p>Neither the agricultural nor the mining industries of the
+Colony are protected.&nbsp; As regards the former, public opinion
+would not permit the taxation of food; whilst, in the latter
+case, the minerals raised are, for the most part, exported, there
+being scarcely any demand for them in the Colony.&nbsp; But,
+while these industries receive no benefit from the fiscal policy
+of the Colony, they are heavily taxed in support of the revenue,
+for not only are all the machinery and materials used in their
+development subject to more than <a name="page106"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 106</span>25 per cent. import duty, but the
+cost of labour is greatly enhanced by the high wages, which
+become necessary when the purchasing power of money is diminished
+by Protection.&nbsp; Every year witnesses a considerable
+expansion of the industries in question; and every year the cry
+becomes louder against the injustice and inequality of a system
+which places the natural resources of the country under so great
+a disadvantage.&nbsp; In consequence of the urgency of these
+complaints there is now some prospect of a reduction of the duty
+on agricultural and mining machinery.</p>
+<p>I have met with men who were always ready to descant upon the
+advantages of Protection, but who, almost in the same breath,
+have told me they have never hesitated to evade the laws when
+they could do so to advantage, or even to break them when it
+suited their convenience and they could do so without much risk,
+justifying their conduct by saying that it was &ldquo;quite right
+to cheat the Government when they could, because the Government
+were always ready to cheat them.&rdquo;&nbsp; In order to
+circumvent the practices of such men as these, the Legislature
+has been compelled to institute a complicated system of accounts
+in connection with the importation of goods, harassing in the
+last degree to those who have been accustomed to do business in a
+country where trade is unshackled.</p>
+<p>In spite of the boasted advantages of Protection, it is
+evident that some manufacturers are not happy under it, as is
+shown by the fact of my having some time ago received from an
+important manufacturing firm in Victoria an application for my
+business agency in the Colony.&nbsp; In their application, the
+firm stated that the <a name="page107"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 107</span>workpeople in the Colony were so
+very independent and so uncertain that they (the firm in
+question) would rather at any time sell imported articles at a
+smaller profit than manufacture them in their own works.</p>
+<p>I have stated that the avowed objects of Protection were the
+attraction of a larger population and the fostering of
+&ldquo;native industry.&rdquo;&nbsp; Now, with these very objects
+in view, the public men of New South Wales have from the first
+adopted and persisted in a policy diametrically opposed to that
+which has for years past been in force in the neighbouring Colony
+of Victoria.&nbsp; If the principles of Protection be sound, we
+should expect to find in the Free Trade Colony of New South Wales
+a state of things even much worse than I have shown to exist in
+Victoria.&nbsp; But what do we find?&nbsp; A constantly
+increasing population; abundance of employment; a vast and
+continually expanding railway system; shipping considerably
+greater than that of the Port of London one hundred years ago; an
+import and export trade greater than that of Great Britain at the
+same period; in short, every evidence of great and enduring
+prosperity.</p>
+<p>As in America, &ldquo;where acres are many and men are
+few,&rdquo; the manufacture of agricultural machinery has been
+brought to greater perfection than in almost any other country,
+so in Australia the same conditions have developed a flourishing
+manufacture of special machinery used in mining&mdash;one of the
+staple industries of the country.&nbsp; A demand for this
+improved machinery has recently sprung up in other countries, a
+considerable order having been received from India by an
+Australian firm while I was there.</p>
+<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>In
+Sydney&mdash;not in spite of, but because of, Free
+Trade&mdash;the largest manufacturing concern in the Australian
+Colonies has grown up.&nbsp; The founders of this large business
+had the sagacity at the outset to recognise that there were
+certain articles which must of necessity be better and more
+cheaply made in the Colony than they could be imported.&nbsp;
+They put down steam saw-mills for supplying planking, which
+before had been imported; they next proceeded to make such
+articles as window-sashes, doors, frames, etc., for
+house-building, choosing such as could be manufactured almost
+entirely by machinery, which they obtained from England and
+America.&nbsp; By such natural means, and altogether free from
+legislative interference, they have built up the enormous
+business known as Hudson Brothers, Limited, railway rolling-stock
+manufacturers.&nbsp; It is clear that with the most improved
+machinery, purchased in the cheapest markets and imported duty
+free, and having inexhaustible supplies of native timber, not
+only cheaper but much better adapted to the climate than that
+hitherto imported, the opening for a perfectly legitimate
+business presented itself; in fact, they created a genuine
+&ldquo;native industry.&rdquo;&nbsp; But Messrs. Hudson,
+recognising, as already pointed out, that other countries have
+also special advantages for the production of certain articles,
+wisely abstain from attempting a hopeless competition.&nbsp; For
+this reason they import such portions of the rolling-stock as
+wheels, axles, springs, carriage-furniture, etc.</p>
+<p>The free importation of mining and agricultural machinery into
+New South Wales has given these industries such a stimulus that
+they have been more <a name="page109"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 109</span>generally developed throughout that
+Colony than those of Victoria, causing a continuous and
+increasing demand for labour.&nbsp; The immigration into New
+South Wales is greatly in excess of that into Victoria; and, in
+addition to this, large numbers of artisans and others are
+continually crossing the border from the latter into the former
+Colony.&nbsp; In 1880, forty-five thousand persons arrived in New
+South Wales from other than Australian ports, and it is not too
+much to say that there is ample room for four times their number
+every year.</p>
+<p>Until a few years since the great shipping companies had their
+repairing yards and shops in Victoria, but the extremely high
+cost of everything required by them compelled them at last to
+remove their establishments to her Free Trade neighbour, thereby
+effecting a very considerable saving.&nbsp; The same causes have
+doubtless been influential in securing to New South Wales the
+remarkable development of its shipping interests during the last
+generation.</p>
+<p>So little is known in England of what our friends in the
+Colonies are doing, that probably many will be startled to learn
+that whereas in 1782 the total imports and exports of Great
+Britain amounted in value to about &pound;23,850,000, in New
+South Wales, in 1881, the value was &pound;27,650,000.</p>
+<p>During the last thirty years the shipping annually arriving in
+Sydney has increased from 90 vessels, with a tonnage of 48,776,
+to 1,389 vessels, with a tonnage of 973,425; and the clearances
+in the same period increased from 47 vessels, with a tonnage of
+24,081, to 1,322 vessels, with a tonnage of 941,895.</p>
+<p><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+110</span>During the last ten years, too, the population of New
+South Wales has increased 53 per cent., while that of Victoria
+has only increased 18 per cent., and while the excess of
+immigration over emigration in the former Colony has quadrupled,
+it has been almost stationary in the latter.</p>
+<p>During the same period the Customs revenue in Victoria,
+notwithstanding the high tariff, has remained almost stationary;
+while in New South Wales, with a low tariff and smaller
+population, it has increased nearly one-half.&nbsp; The imports,
+too, have increased 80 per cent., against 17 per cent. in
+Victoria, and the exports 94 per cent. against 28 per cent.</p>
+<p>These figures, taken from official papers in 1882, have never
+been dealt with by Victorian Protectionists, but are full of
+meaning to all those whom vested interests have not made
+blind.&nbsp; While it is true that Australia presents, and will
+continue to present, a great field for the surplus population of
+older countries, it is, in my opinion, a mistake to suppose that
+the upper grades of English artisans improve their position much
+by going there.&nbsp; Wages are higher it is true, and eight
+hours make up a day&rsquo;s work; animal food also is cheaper,
+but almost everything else is dearer than in
+England&mdash;house-rents, indeed, enormously so.&nbsp; An
+artisan who in Birmingham would be well housed for 5s. to 6s. a
+week would have to pay &pound;1 for much inferior accommodation;
+this remark applies generally in Australia, the principal cause
+being the great lack of artisans in the building trade.&nbsp;
+Many too, may consider the higher wages and shorter hours of
+labour as not too great a compensation for the exhaustion induced
+<a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>by the
+heat and dust of the climate and the annoyance from insect
+life.&nbsp; But for unskilled labour and for skilled agricultural
+labour there can be only one opinion,&mdash;viz., that the
+Colonies present a field where sobriety and industry are certain
+to bring a reward such as is altogether unattainable at home.</p>
+<p>The education of the people is admirably provided for by the
+Legislature, every district being well supplied with first-rate
+schools, while the means of intercommunication by rail, post, and
+telegraph are superior to those of any country in the world, when
+the smallness of the population and the immense distances to be
+covered are taken into consideration.</p>
+<p>In Australia, especially in the southern Colonies, there is
+happily no native question to absorb the attention of the people
+and to upset the calculations of financiers, consequently the
+colonists are able to devote all their energy to opening up the
+natural resources of the country.&nbsp; At the present time many
+millions of money are set aside for the construction of new
+railways and for the supply and storage of water, and when these
+are completed vast areas of agricultural land will be opened
+sufficient to accommodate all the spare population of England for
+many years to come.</p>
+<p>If &ldquo;Young Australia,&rdquo; like his cousin in America,
+has an unbounded confidence in the future of his country, he has
+even more in himself, as is well illustrated by the following
+story told me by an old resident.&nbsp; In one of the cities a
+number of young men had established a Debating Society, which met
+every Wednesday evening in a room in a narrow street.&nbsp; On
+the other side of the street was a church where service was held
+<a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>at the
+same time.&nbsp; The weather being hot the windows of both
+buildings were usually open, and the important deliberations of
+the young men were much interrupted by the preaching and singing
+in the church.&nbsp; With a delightful unconsciousness of what in
+slang phrase is called &ldquo;cheek,&rdquo; they instructed their
+secretary to write to the minister of the church, requesting him
+to hold his service upon some other evening of the week!</p>
+<p>The people of Australia are possessed of vast energy and great
+intelligence: and, having unlimited and well-grounded faith in
+their capacity to conquer the many difficulties which lie before
+them, they determined that their future career shall do no
+discredit to the great country from which they have sprung, and
+of whose history they are so proud.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p112.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Duck-Billed Platypus (Ornithorhyncus paradoxus)"
+title=
+"The Duck-Billed Platypus (Ornithorhyncus paradoxus)"
+src="images/p112.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+113</span>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+<p>We left Sydney in the first week in April, and although we had
+greatly enjoyed the beautiful scenery of its fine harbour and the
+neighbouring Blue Mountains, and had experienced the greatest
+kindness and hospitality on every side, we were not sorry to
+depart.</p>
+<p>In the first place, we were homeward-bound, and I had
+recovered the health, in search of which I had left home and
+friends, and the weather had been so oppressively hot and the
+dust so troublesome, that we were glad of the prospect of the
+abatement of the one and the total disappearance of the
+other.</p>
+<p>For ten months the Colony had had no rain, and in the
+neighbourhood of Sydney trees were dying by hundreds, and gardens
+which had been carefully tended for fifteen or twenty years were
+nearly spoiled.&nbsp; The outlook for agriculturists was dark
+indeed, very indifferent hay was selling for &pound;10 a ton, and
+the cattle were perishing for want of water.&nbsp; I saw a
+statement <a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+114</span>in the paper that one farmer had already lost 45,000
+sheep, and if the drought lasted a few weeks longer he would lose
+50,000 more.&nbsp; The most inveterate grumbler at the moisture
+of the English climate would, if here in Sydney, soon arrive at
+the conclusion that six months&rsquo; rain is to be preferred to
+ten months&rsquo; drought and dust under a scorching sun.</p>
+<p>Some friends accompanied us on board our steamer, and
+observing that the sky had become overcast with every prospect of
+a heavy downpour, I endeavoured to persuade them to return to
+shore, but they said the sky often looked overcast but soon
+became clear again, and that there would be no rain; still I was
+not comfortable, and presently induced them to go.&nbsp;
+Half-an-hour afterwards our time was up, the ship&rsquo;s gun was
+fired, and down came the rain in such torrents as made me very
+apprehensive for the safety of my friends, lest their boat should
+be swamped.&nbsp; On arriving at New York I found a letter from
+them informing me that the rain filled the boat so fast that it
+was with some difficulty they could keep it afloat.</p>
+<p>Our vessel was an exceedingly fine one, and was on her first
+voyage.&nbsp; Her length was 400ft. and she was 40ft. wide across
+the saloon.&nbsp; The appointments seemed to be all very good,
+although it soon appeared that she was insufficiently supplied
+with stewards, the consequence being that the meals were badly
+served.&nbsp; Everything, however, was done according to rule,
+and it was curious to see the order in which the various dishes
+were brought in.&nbsp; The chief steward rang a bell once, and
+the stewards marched into the saloon in single file, dishes in
+hand; two rings, right wheel; <a name="page115"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 115</span>three times, place dishes on the
+table; and at the fourth ringing of the bell, remove covers and
+march out with them.&nbsp; It looked like a pantomime, and caused
+us considerable merriment.&nbsp; The head steward was a negro,
+and it was curious to note how he lorded it over the white
+stewards.</p>
+<p>A rough passage of four days brought us to the entrance of
+Auckland harbour.&nbsp; The previous day it was very stormy, and
+an albatross which had been following us for some time,
+frequently flying across the ship between the masts, at length
+either flew, or was blown, against one of the masts, and fell
+dead upon the deck.</p>
+<p>In approaching the town of Auckland a number of islands of
+curious shape, surmounted with rocks bearing the appearance of
+castles are passed.&nbsp; Auckland looks well from the harbour,
+which is a very fine one; behind the town a mountain rises to a
+considerable altitude, greatly adding to the picturesqueness of
+the view.</p>
+<p>Our ship was the largest that had ever been in the harbour,
+and we expected soon to have a number of boats plying for hire,
+but none appeared until half our limited time had expired, and
+consequently very few passengers went ashore.&nbsp; We took a
+quantity of coal on board, the quality of which was very bad,
+giving off volumes of the densest smoke.&nbsp; It is much
+inferior to the New South Wales coal, which in its turn is not
+equal to English.</p>
+<p>For the first ten days the Pacific greatly belied its name,
+being in a state of great commotion the whole time; indeed, most
+of the way to San Francisco the roll was very considerable.&nbsp;
+As we neared Kandavu, <a name="page116"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 116</span>in the Fiji Islands, the dreaded
+coral reefs began to come in sight.&nbsp; Some of them stretch
+out for fifteen miles from the land, and are known to approaching
+vessels by the white crests of the long lines of breakers.&nbsp;
+Navigation is very dangerous, and the harbour of Kandavu is a
+very difficult one to make.&nbsp; Just before entering we passed
+within fifty feet of the masts of a sunken ship; but, having
+brought a native pilot from Sydney, we got inside safely.&nbsp;
+The harbour is exceedingly beautiful.&nbsp; For some distance
+from the water on each side the ground is covered with cocoa-nut
+and bread-fruit trees, large ferns, and a great variety of bright
+green foliage, while beyond is a range of hills of beautiful
+shapes and well wooded.</p>
+<p>It being Sunday only two or three boats made their appearance,
+the missionaries not permitting the natives to come out to trade
+or to gratify their curiosity on that day.&nbsp; Knowing this we
+were not a little amazed to receive a visit presently from the
+missionaries themselves, who were rowed by eight very intelligent
+natives, having no clothing worthy of mention.&nbsp; Some of our
+party taxed the missionaries with their lack of consistency, and
+were answered that they came &ldquo;by invitation.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The natives have fine open faces, with good foreheads, bright and
+restless eyes.&nbsp; They are of a dark chocolate or liver
+colour.&nbsp; Their hair is very abundant, but they spoil it by
+putting quicklime upon it, turning it to a dirty reddish
+brown.&nbsp; Their vivacity is astonishing.&nbsp; They laugh and
+chatter in a ceaseless chorus, but their language is not
+musical.&nbsp; One old fellow was particularly voluble; he was in
+a boat, and was giving instructions <a name="page117"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 117</span>to his crew in a fearfully loud
+voice, which sounded like the slipping of a ship&rsquo;s cable
+through the hawser-hole.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p117.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Native of Fiji"
+title=
+"A Native of Fiji"
+src="images/p117.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>It was great fun to watch the children diving for money.&nbsp;
+If you threw a sixpence into the water they would go after it and
+catch it before it had gone down many feet, quickly reappearing
+to ask&mdash;like Oliver Twist&mdash;for more, and with a grin,
+disclosing teeth which made us envy them.</p>
+<p><a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>Some
+of our fellow-passengers went ashore, and were much charmed with
+all they saw.&nbsp; The little children very much delighted them
+by coming up and putting their hands into those of their
+visitors, leading them off to show them the bread-fruit and
+banana trees.</p>
+<p>Just as daylight was going our gun was fired, and with our
+pilot on board we steamed out of the harbour, having the
+pilot&rsquo;s boat in tow, manned with as merry a crew as ever
+rowed a boat.&nbsp; The captain was very anxious to get clear of
+the reefs before dusk, and so went at a pretty good speed, and
+although the pilot-boat was half out of the water, and was
+constantly being swamped, the crew laughed and shrieked with
+delight, shouting and making curious noises like Christy
+Minstrels.</p>
+<p>Presently they commenced a song, one old fellow beating time
+with an oar&mdash;but we preferred the shrieking.&nbsp; Soon the
+pilot clambered down the ship&rsquo;s side, and after giving him
+three cheers we set off at full speed.</p>
+<p>There are many sharks in these waters, but it is said they are
+not fond of the dark skins.&nbsp; Whether that is so or not I do
+not know, but certainly both boys and men disregard the presence
+of these monsters in diving for money.</p>
+<p>The day after leaving Kandavu we passed through a beautiful
+group of islands surrounded with coral reefs.&nbsp; We passed so
+close to two of these islands that we were able to see the
+cocoa-nut trees quite distinctly, the bright green vegetation
+rising just above the pure white surf, and the whole surrounded
+by the glorious purple and azure of the ocean.&nbsp; While
+passing one of <a name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+119</span>the islands we saw a huge waterspout burst, and were
+glad our ship was well out of it.</p>
+<p>Soon after leaving the Fiji Islands the crew were put through
+fire-brigade practice.&nbsp; The bell was rung continuously, the
+whistles blown, and the crew and stewards rushed to the
+fire-engines, and got out the buckets and hose, and soon began
+playing over the ship, while the first officer superintended the
+getting out and lowering of the boats.&nbsp; As very few persons
+were warned of what was going to be done, there was naturally
+great excitement amongst the passengers, one lady fainting in the
+saloon, thinking the ship was really on fire.&nbsp; I was not
+impressed with the smartness or efficiency of either officers or
+crew, and was devoutly thankful that there was no need for their
+services; and yet I often wondered there were no fires, there
+being so many kerosene lamps all over the ship, to say nothing of
+the immense kitchen fires, where twice in one morning I saw a
+regular burst of flame through an unskilful cook overturning the
+fat in the absence of his chief.</p>
+<p>In going from England to Australia, and returning via the
+Pacific, and across America, one day is gained, and in order to
+keep our calendar right we had to &ldquo;drop a day,&rdquo; or
+when we arrived at Liverpool we should be a day in advance of our
+home friends.&nbsp; This is done by having two days of the same
+name and date in one week.&nbsp; It appears rather curious but is
+plain enough, for our general course since leaving home was
+eastward, and continued so until we reached home.&nbsp; Now, as
+in going east, four minutes to each degree are gained (the
+reverse in going west), it <a name="page120"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 120</span>follows that in the 360 degrees into
+which the earth&rsquo;s circumference is divided, a total gain of
+360 &times; 4 = 1,440 minutes, or 24 hours is made.</p>
+<p>Our doctor was somewhat of a curiosity.&nbsp; One evening he
+told me that one of the passengers, who was suffering from an
+ailment of the eyes, had declined his further services,
+preferring to pay one of the passengers who was a medical
+man.&nbsp; He assured me he had no feeling about it, he was quite
+above that sort of thing.&nbsp; &ldquo;Our profession,&rdquo; he
+said, &ldquo;is one in which we should always practice the virtue
+of charity in accordance with the teaching of Christ, whose
+follower I trust I am.&rdquo;&nbsp; But observing that during the
+conversation he frequently swore, I gave him a hint about
+it.&nbsp; &ldquo;Ah,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;you remind me of my
+little wife at home; whenever I swear or consign any one to a
+warm place, she puts her finger up and says, &lsquo;Ah,
+don&rsquo;t do that, you know you don&rsquo;t mean it,&rsquo;
+which of course is perfectly true, so there is no harm in
+it.&rdquo;&nbsp; One of our doctors was re-named a
+&ldquo;compound-conceited-cuss-of-a-colonial-cockatoo-quack-of-a-doctor.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+He believed in the Australian &ldquo;spread eagle&rdquo;&mdash;in
+the cockatoo, that is&mdash;and had visions of a time when
+England would be a &ldquo;foreign&rdquo; country.&nbsp; But he
+was labouring under the impression that there were eight millions
+of people in the Australian colonies, whereas there were not more
+than 2&frac12; millions of white, black, yellow, and brown.</p>
+<p>Life on shipboard is not more free from little personal
+difficulties than on land: one of our colonial friends daily
+raised the susceptibilities of his neighbours at the dinner table
+by emptying a favourite dish of fruit into his pocket for home
+consumption; while just <a name="page121"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 121</span>before reaching Honolulu it was
+rumoured there was to be a duel as soon as we arrived at the
+island.&nbsp; One of the English travellers had an objectionable
+habit of turning the fruit over with his fingers at dessert, and
+picking out the best.&nbsp; A colonial gentleman frequently
+rebuked him mildly for his breach of good manners, telling him he
+should &ldquo;touch and take&rdquo;; and so it resulted in a
+quarrel which it was said &ldquo;blood alone can
+quell.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is satisfactory, however, to know that the
+deadly encounter did not come off.</p>
+<p>Being told by the Captain that we might expect to land at
+Honolulu at 6 p.m., the four o&rsquo;clock dinner table was
+comparatively deserted, most of the passengers preferring to
+reserve themselves for what the Yankees call a &ldquo;good square
+meal&rdquo; on shore.&nbsp; We arrived off the entrance to the
+harbour in good time, and made the usual signals for a pilot, but
+with no result.&nbsp; After sunset, guns and rockets were fired,
+but no pilot appearing, the Captain decided to run in without
+one.&nbsp; In consequence of the delay it was ten o&rsquo;clock
+before we landed, when we found the islanders were <i>en
+f&ecirc;te</i>, and were informed that on such occasions the
+pilots decline to go out for vessels.&nbsp; Just as we were about
+to land, one of our passengers, in the darkness, fell overboard,
+but being a good swimmer and a strong, fearless man, he managed
+to get aboard again, with no worse result than a wetting.&nbsp;
+This gentleman had the reputation of being somewhat of a sceptic,
+and that afternoon I had been discussing with him the subject of
+a future state.&nbsp; When he was safe on deck again I reminded
+him of our conversation, and asked what his thoughts were when
+under the water in such a perilous situation.&nbsp; He replied,
+&ldquo;I will tell you <a name="page122"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 122</span>exactly what I did think.&nbsp; When
+I fell overboard I had three shillings in my hand, and my first
+thought when under water was as to their safety; so, before doing
+anything else, I safely deposited them in my pocket, and then
+proceeded to &lsquo;go aloft.&rsquo;&rdquo;&nbsp; On landing we
+found ourselves amongst a motley throng, whose faces, however,
+were too dark to be seen, the majority dressed in light coloured
+raiment, and all laughing, shouting, jabbering and shrieking in a
+ten times more lively manner than a mob of gay Neapolitans on the
+arrival of a train at Naples.&nbsp; We found the hotel about a
+mile from the landing place, and very much enjoyed the walk along
+the wide unpaved streets, lined with houses of various shapes and
+sizes, many with gardens around them.&nbsp; Myriads of fire-flies
+lit up the darkness, and the air was laden with the perfume of
+tropical flowers.&nbsp; On arriving at the hotel, we found it to
+be a spacious, well-lighted building, with lofty reception rooms,
+through which we wandered in quest of waiters to whom to give our
+orders for supper, but no servant could we find, neither could we
+get any response to the bells, which were vigorously rung by a
+hungry crowd.&nbsp; We made our way to the office, and were there
+informed that we could get nothing to eat till next morning, as
+the servants had &ldquo;gone home,&rdquo; and nothing was served
+after nine o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; It was in vain we declared we
+were starving; the only reply was that we could get what we liked
+to <i>drink</i> at the bar.&nbsp; A Yankee standing by, pitying
+our plight, said it was quite true we could get nothing that
+night, but told us how we could be the first to be served in the
+morning.&nbsp; He recommended us to order our breakfast at the
+office <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+123</span>before leaving, and to pay for it there and then, and
+to be at the hotel again before seven o&rsquo;clock next
+morning.&nbsp; This we did, and then returned to the vessel,
+where we also were too late to obtain anything to eat.&nbsp; In
+the morning we were early at the hotel (buying some delicious
+strawberries on the way), and proceeding to the breakfast room,
+were informed we could not obtain admission until seven
+o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; At the appointed hour the folding doors were
+opened by two natives of the &ldquo;Flowery Land,&rdquo; and we
+were soon seated at the tables, which were crowded with a
+bountiful supply of most tempting viands, and quantities of
+luscious fruit.</p>
+<p>As soon as all the seats were occupied the Celestial waiter
+closed the door, and was most assiduous in seeing that his staff
+attended carefully to the wants of his guests.&nbsp; Presently
+there were loud knockings at the door, to which no attention
+whatever was vouchsafed by the smiling Chinee; and when the
+knockings were varied by angry exclamations from our friends
+outside, his face became blander still.&nbsp; It could not be
+said of this &ldquo;Heathen Chinee&rdquo; that his &ldquo;tricks
+they were vain,&rdquo; for they were only too effectual in
+keeping the hungry crowd at bay.&nbsp; When we had quite finished
+(and I fear we were in no haste to depart), the doors were opened
+to admit a further batch of impatient voyagers, and even then
+only one half of the expectant throng could be admitted, the
+remainder being advised to betake themselves to the restaurants
+in the town.&nbsp; We shall not soon forget our experiences at
+the Honolulu Hotel, the landlord of which is no less a personage
+than His Most Gracious Majesty the King of the Hawaiian
+Islands.</p>
+<p><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 124</span>We
+occupied the remainder of the limited time at our disposal in
+walking and driving around the town and neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>The date and other palms, india-rubber and cocoanut trees,
+tree ferns, guavas, and other kinds of tropical vegetation
+flourish here in great abundance.&nbsp; Flowers of the most
+brilliant colours grow everywhere, and the houses of the better
+classes seem perfect little paradises, with numerous jets of
+water flying.&nbsp; The grass is delightfully green and
+beautiful, and great dragon-flies flit about in all
+directions.&nbsp; Here and there we came across a group of little
+black-eyed, brown-faced, merry children, looking shyly at the
+white strangers, and rushing wildly along the streets.&nbsp; We
+also met numbers of natives on horseback, dressed in splendid
+colours&mdash;red, blue, yellow, and green&mdash;all mixed, or in
+masses of one or more of these delicate hues.&nbsp; &ldquo;Will
+you ride,&rdquo; said one.&nbsp; &ldquo;Not to-day,&rdquo; I
+said, &ldquo;perhaps to-morrow.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;That no
+good,&rdquo; replied he, &ldquo;for steamer sails
+tomorrow!&rdquo; and off he went at a gallop.&nbsp; They are
+sharp, sprightly fellows, very handsome, wonderfully lithe and
+active, and have dark, flashing eyes.</p>
+<p>The women of the labouring class are very stately looking, and
+walk with a dignity and grace a duchess might envy.&nbsp; Their
+clothing is not of a very extensive character, consisting
+apparently of one long loose robe, gathered neatly around the
+neck and wrists, with gay-coloured ribbons, and suggesting the
+idea that seven years would be an unnecessary time for a Honolulu
+girl to be bound to learn dressmaking.</p>
+<p>Meeting a number of little girls returning from school, I
+tried to get them to come and read to us <a
+name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>out of
+their books.&nbsp; They were very shy, and it was some time
+before they would venture near us.&nbsp; At last one of them let
+me have her book, and I saw that her name was Emma&mdash;after
+the good queen of that name, who visited England a few years
+since&mdash;so I said, &ldquo;Now, Emma, read us something, and I
+will give you this,&rdquo; holding a new threepenny piece before
+her.&nbsp; At once she came and read a page in the true
+conventional schoolgirl monotone.&nbsp; The book was printed in
+Honolulu, and was in the native language, which sounded sweet,
+and free from harshness.&nbsp; She was a nice-looking little
+girl, quite a &ldquo;brownie,&rdquo; and was much pleased with
+her threepenny-piece.&nbsp; The children were delighted at seeing
+Queen Victoria&rsquo;s face on the coin, and frequently repeated
+her name.&nbsp; The race is fast dying out, and in a few
+generations will become extinct.</p>
+<p>During the day we visited a school, and looked over the
+Parliament House, which is a handsome building.&nbsp; The hall is
+very large and lofty, and so also are the rooms, the walls and
+ceilings being lined with a smooth white enamel.&nbsp; In
+connection with the House of Parliament there is a tolerably good
+library, and the nucleus of a good museum, but the country is
+very poor; indeed I am told it is almost bankrupt.&nbsp; On
+passing the post-office it occurred to us to ask if there were
+any letters for us, although we did not expect any, and putting
+our cards on the table we said we supposed there were no letters
+for us.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh, but there are though,&rdquo; the clerk
+said, &ldquo;and I am very glad to get rid of them,&rdquo;
+whereupon, to our intense delight, he produced a huge packet of
+letters and papers.</p>
+<p><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>While
+driving into the country we passed many pretty villas, with
+gardens full of splendid shrubs and flowers, and on to a native
+village.&nbsp; The houses are made chiefly of large rushes, which
+grow here in great abundance.&nbsp; There seem to be no chairs or
+seats in the houses, every one squatting on the ground.&nbsp; We
+passed some native women carrying their babies, and I asked if
+they would sell me one.&nbsp; &ldquo;Yes, for a dollar,&rdquo; <a
+name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>one
+replied; but when I said &ldquo;Very well, then, bring it
+here,&rdquo; she altered her mind, which was a good thing for me,
+for I should not have known what to do with a black baby.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p126.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Ruth, The King&rsquo;s Sister (Died 1883)"
+title=
+"Ruth, The King&rsquo;s Sister (Died 1883)"
+src="images/p126.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The temperature of Honolulu ranges between 60&deg; and
+88&deg;, and the islands are always fanned by the N.E. trade
+winds, rendering them exceedingly healthy.</p>
+<p>Our visit conveyed the impression to our minds that it would
+be impossible to spend a month more delightfully than among the
+Hawaiian group, and we bade adieu to Honolulu with the greatest
+regret.</p>
+<p>It was a beautiful moonlight evening when we left Honolulu for
+San Francisco, and after many months&rsquo; travelling by land
+and sea, we began to feel that we were at last really homeward
+bound, for would not our <i>next</i> voyage land us at
+Liverpool?&nbsp; While at Honolulu we received a very
+considerable addition to our passenger list in the persons of a
+number of Americans, of both sexes, some of them being
+gentlefolks and some of them not.&nbsp; We also took on board
+three thousand bundles of bananas, which were hung up in the
+netting all round the promenade deck.&nbsp; This was a most
+unfair arrangement on the part of the captain, as not only were
+the seats on this deck rendered unavailable, and a large portion
+of the space occupied, but the ship became overrun with
+centipedes, some of them five inches long, making it like Egypt
+during one of the plagues, &ldquo;for they were in all our
+quarters,&rdquo; in our beds and in our clothes.&nbsp; Americans,
+as a rule, are not good sailors.&nbsp; Hence it is that when
+commencing a voyage they take it for granted that they are going
+to be ill, and make their arrangements accordingly.&nbsp; My
+companions had <a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+128</span>been flattering themselves that the spare berth in
+their cabin would remain empty to the end of the voyage, but they
+were doomed to disappointment, for it was their bad fortune to
+receive one of the most bilious-looking of the new
+arrivals.&nbsp; On entering the cabin the first observation the
+Yankee made was, &ldquo;Where d&rsquo;ye throw up?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+The answer to which was, &ldquo;We don&rsquo;t &lsquo;throw
+up&rsquo; at all.&nbsp; We <i>go</i> up and lean over the lee
+side.&rdquo;&nbsp; The event proved the Yankee&rsquo;s
+apprehensions to be well founded.&nbsp; One party of Americans
+were returning from a prolonged residence on one of the islands
+of the Pacific, where they appeared to have acquired some of the
+native habits.&nbsp; One day these people were taking their lunch
+on deck; it consisted of chicken and a native dish called
+&ldquo;POI.&rdquo;&nbsp; The latter was a substance like
+bill-stickers&rsquo; paste, and was contained in a large
+bowl.&nbsp; The company, which numbered some five or six persons,
+men and women, sat upon the deck around the bowl, and, having
+learned from their new acquaintances, the savages, to do without
+spoons and separate dishes, helped themselves to the delicious
+mixture by each dipping two fingers into the common bowl until it
+was empty.&nbsp; They then attacked the chicken, and had
+evidently taken lessons in carving from the same authorities, for
+they adopted the primitive plan of pulling it to pieces.&nbsp; Of
+course these proceedings excited considerable remark among the
+passengers, but the party seemed quite insensible to
+observation.</p>
+<p>Another of our passengers was an American, named Steinberg,
+who had a grievance against the British Government on account of
+an alleged outrage on the part of an English man-of-war&rsquo;s
+crew, in some dispute <a name="page129"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 129</span>in the Samoan Islands.&nbsp; He was
+nursing his wrath until he arrived at Washington, when he
+certainly thought England&rsquo;s fate would be settled, and that
+she would be &ldquo;chawed up catawampously.&rdquo;&nbsp; This
+man was accompanied by a Yankee journalist of a most anti-British
+type.&nbsp; He was a sallow-faced man with a large square lower
+jaw, without any hair on his face, and with straight lanky locks,
+and, moreover, was something under five feet high.&nbsp; He was
+so thorough-going in his hatred of everything British that when
+&ldquo;God save the Queen&rdquo; was sung at the close of a
+concert in the saloon, he got up with much fuss and stalked out,
+followed by some half-dozen of his countrymen.&nbsp; We called
+the fiery editor &ldquo;Jefferson Brick,&rdquo; after Martin
+Chuzzlewit&rsquo;s acquaintance.&nbsp; On one occasion I heard a
+friend of this gentleman ask him if he had a chair on deck.&nbsp;
+He said he had not, as the Britishers always brought a good
+supply.&nbsp; I took the hint, and determined that, at any rate,
+he should not use mine.&nbsp; Soon afterwards it happened that a
+sea, breaking over the deck, soaked the carpet seat of my chair,
+which obliged me to place it in a sunny position that it might
+dry.&nbsp; Presently I saw &ldquo;Mr. Brick&rdquo; deliberately
+fetch the chair, which was a very comfortable one, and, taking it
+into the shade, settle down on it.&nbsp; I went to him and
+remarked that the chair was quite wet.&nbsp; &ldquo;I guess
+it&rsquo;s dry now,&rdquo; said he, with the peculiar twang of a
+down-east Yankee.&nbsp; Seeing that he failed to take the hint, I
+told him that the chair was mine and that I would thank him to
+give it up.&nbsp; This he did, with a remark that he &ldquo;did
+not see what people who were always walking about wanted with
+chairs at all.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>We
+were not altogether without curious examples of our own
+countrymen as fellow-passengers.&nbsp; One in particular, an
+Irish tradesman, from one of the New Zealand ports, seemed
+determined to amuse and be amused.&nbsp; We called our friend
+&ldquo;Mister,&rdquo; because he addressed everybody by that
+name.&nbsp; It appears that &ldquo;Mister&rdquo; was too fond of
+liquor, and that he had to take an occasional holiday, in order
+to give his friends an opportunity of putting his affairs
+straight at home.&nbsp; I was told that he had a flourishing
+business, which was managed by two able assistants, who insisted
+upon his leaving them for twelve months in the interest of the
+concern, under the penalty, if he returned, of their opening an
+opposition shop.&nbsp; &ldquo;Mister&rdquo; told me he had been
+educated in four Colleges in Ireland, which, doubtless, accounted
+for the remarkable absence of knowledge he displayed.&nbsp; He
+frequently alarmed us by the disappearance of the knife down his
+throat at the dinner table.&nbsp; One evening he volunteered to
+read at one of the entertainments in the saloon, and caused great
+amusement by the richness of his humour and of his
+brogue&mdash;winding up his reading by the impromptu observation,
+&ldquo;and shure it is oi that am moighty dray.&rdquo;&nbsp; We
+shall hear of &ldquo;Mister&rdquo; again when we get to San
+Francisco.</p>
+<p>One of our passengers, who died during the voyage, had been
+suffering greatly from severe pains in the head.&nbsp; He had
+been told by a lady that sometimes great relief was obtained in
+such cases by rubbing brandy upon the head.&nbsp; Soon after
+giving this advice the lady was walking down the saloon where
+there were a number of passengers and stewards, when she was
+astonished by <a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+131</span>hearing the poor invalid calling after her in the most
+excited manner, and to the no small wonderment of the passengers,
+&ldquo;Miss, Miss, did you say brandy or whiskey?&rdquo;&nbsp; On
+one occasion the doctor was examining this patient, when the poor
+fellow appealed to him to do what he could for him, saying,
+&ldquo;Doctor, I should like to have one more chance, do you see,
+and if you can put this old crazy machine together again and make
+it run once more I shall take it&mdash;<i>as a personal
+favour</i>!&rdquo;&nbsp; Before he became dangerously ill the
+invalid was in the same cabin with one of my friends, who one
+night was considerably disturbed by his dreadful coughing, varied
+at intervals by strong language respecting the cough, which, he
+declared, did not belong to him.&nbsp; &ldquo;It&rsquo;s not
+mine, I never had a cough, it&rsquo;s my head that&rsquo;s
+wrong&mdash;this cough belongs to some other fellow; what&rsquo;s
+it bothering me for?&rdquo; and when some ladies gently
+remonstrated with him he said, &ldquo;Look here, now, I guess
+it&rsquo;s just as natural for me to swear as it is for you to
+pray!&rdquo;&nbsp; His end came suddenly at last, and in a few
+hours after, in the early morning, his remains were</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the deep bosom of the ocean
+buried.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We sighted the entrance to the magnificent harbour of San
+Francisco at daybreak on a beautiful morning at the end of April,
+and when we approached it the sun had just risen, bathing the
+whole scene in a flood of golden light, fully justifying its
+name, &ldquo;The Golden Gate.&rdquo;&nbsp; In a short time the
+city came in view, reminding me very forcibly of Sheffield, from
+the dense masses of smoke which hung over a large portion of it,
+for San Francisco is an important manufacturing place.&nbsp; Soon
+we were boarded by a motley crew, composed of <a
+name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>Custom
+House officers, hotel-touts, porters, agents for the railway, and
+a number of keen-eyed gentry, desirous of earning a cent anyway,
+honest or otherwise.&nbsp; We had decided upon going to the
+famous Palace Hotel, and having found the agent, placed our
+luggage under his care, receiving checks for it, and, locking our
+cabin, proceeded on shore, where we found the most sumptuous
+omnibus we had ever seen waiting to convey passengers to the
+hotel.</p>
+<h2><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+135</span>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+<p>The Palace Hotel in San Francisco is quite a town in itself,
+containing as it does over a thousand rooms, and with rarely less
+than a thousand inhabitants, including servants, only a limited
+number of the latter, however, living in the house.&nbsp; The
+establishment has its own gas-works, four artesian wells,
+affording an abundant supply of the purest water; it also
+possesses a thoroughly good fire-brigade, and an efficient system
+of police.&nbsp; There are five hydraulic lifts for the
+conveyance of guests and luggage to each floor of the
+house.&nbsp; The rooms on the ground floor are 25ft. high, and of
+corresponding size, the breakfast room being 110ft. by 53ft., the
+dining room 150ft. by 55ft., the walls being hung with excellent
+copies of the best works of the great masters.&nbsp; The
+corridors are lined and paved with white marble, and the grand
+staircase is of the same material.</p>
+<p>The bedrooms are very large and airy, and they all have
+comfortable dressing-rooms attached, with hot and <a
+name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>cold water
+supply, and with a dozen beautiful towels&mdash;a very refreshing
+sight to the voyager who has been cooped up for the previous
+month in the limited space allotted to passengers on an ocean
+steamer.&nbsp; The bedrooms have baths adjoining them, each bath
+being arranged for two rooms; there is also a service-room on
+each landing, where a dusky negro is always in attendance.&nbsp;
+Upon each landing there is a tube for the conveyance of letters
+for the post direct into the letter-box at the general
+office.&nbsp; There is also a pneumatic despatch-tube for the
+conveyance of messages and parcels to and from any point on the
+different floors.&nbsp; Upon the garden floor of the hotel there
+is an arcade promenade 12ft. wide, with entrances to all the
+shops under the hotel, upon the street level, each shop having a
+show window upon this promenade.&nbsp; There are three inner
+courts, the centre one being 140ft. by 84ft., covered with glass
+of the same height as the roof of the hotel.&nbsp; It has a
+carriage and promenade entrance from the street of 44ft. in
+width, and a circular carriage way of 54ft. in diameter, which is
+surrounded by a marble-tiled promenade and a tropical
+garden.&nbsp; The garden is well supplied with exotic plants,
+statuary, and fountains.&nbsp; Around this centre court and upon
+every storey there is an open gallery from which all the bedrooms
+are entered, and from which they receive light and fresh
+air.&nbsp; The dining rooms are fitted with a large number of
+small tables for parties of from four to eight persons, an
+arrangement very much superior to the long tables in most
+<i>salles &agrave; manger</i>.</p>
+<p>There are about four hundred waiters, one-fourth only being
+white men, the rest negroes.&nbsp; The latter <a
+name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>seem
+specially adapted for waiting, being active and nimble, and
+seeming to anticipate every wish.&nbsp; They receive &pound;1 per
+week wages and their board, but lodge away from the house.&nbsp;
+A fresh bill of fare is printed daily for each meal, and the
+variety of food is very great, there being a choice of about
+seventy dishes at dinner.&nbsp; In the kitchen are twenty-seven
+French cooks, besides assistants&mdash;a sufficient guarantee for
+the excellent manner in which the food is prepared.</p>
+<p>There is a splendid laundry in the house, where the washing is
+done by fifty Chinese washer<i>men</i>, and certainly never was
+linen more exquisitely got up than here.&nbsp; These Celestials
+are specially successful in all kinds of starching requiring a
+smooth polished surface, such as shirt fronts.&nbsp; The mode in
+which they apply the starch is quite novel, for having taken a
+mouthful they blow it out on to the article in a continuous fine
+spray, while their hands are occupied in ironing.</p>
+<p>The servants take their meals in <i>table d&rsquo;hote</i>
+fashion, being waited on by a batch of their fellow servants, and
+everything is conducted with the greatest possible regularity and
+order.&nbsp; I was much pleased to find that all the gas and
+water fittings, also the hydraulic lifts and pumps, were supplied
+by English makers, and were such as to command the admiration of
+everybody.</p>
+<p>An American gentleman, hearing me speak of the hotel, asked me
+how I liked it?&nbsp; I told him I was greatly delighted with it;
+that it was a palace, indeed, in all its arrangements, but that
+in one respect I had been not a little astonished at what I had
+seen there&mdash;the presence of the extreme of civilisation face
+to face with a very close approach to barbarism.&nbsp; &ldquo;How
+is <a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+138</span>that,&rdquo; said he.&nbsp; &ldquo;Why,&rdquo; I
+replied, &ldquo;you are only supplied with one knife and fork at
+meals; each guest has to dip his fishy knife into the butter, and
+the same process has to be gone through in taking salt and
+mustard; and seeing it is the fashion amongst the American guests
+to put the knife into their mouths, the idea is not
+pleasant.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I referred, too, to another peculiarity of the Americans
+arising, I believe, from their extensive use of the Virginian
+weed in chewing, and I said that the guests at the Palace Hotel,
+in passing through its marble halls, had not the same excuse for
+their conduct that the old Greek philosopher had when he was
+being shown over the palace by Cr&oelig;sus, and when he excused
+himself for an unparalleled act of rudeness by saying &ldquo;that
+such was the magnificence on every hand that the face of the king
+was the meanest thing that presented itself,&rdquo; for the
+proprietor of the hotel had made the most ample provision for the
+national habit&mdash;a provision which was, however, very
+generally disregarded.</p>
+<p>The city of San Francisco is exceedingly well situated, and
+possesses many handsome streets, extensive hotels, and public
+buildings, but in none of these respects, save only in hotels, is
+it equal to Melbourne, though the evidences of great business
+activity and prosperity are much greater in the former city.</p>
+<p>The day after I arrived at the hotel I was surprised at
+receiving the following letter:&mdash;&ldquo;Dear
+Tangye,&mdash;Should you wish to see me I am to be found at the
+above address, or a letter addressed to me, Box 339, Post Office,
+will reach me promptly.&nbsp; My wife is dead.&nbsp; A. J. C.
+Jarratt.&rdquo;&nbsp; The name was quite <a
+name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>strange to
+me, so I decided <i>not</i> to go, but to send a friend.&nbsp; My
+friend found the address, which was a wretched room at the top of
+a lofty pile of buildings, and after a few minutes&rsquo;
+conversation with the man he saw there, was very glad to get into
+the street again, not liking the aspect of things.&nbsp; The
+following day, whilst seated at dinner with my friends, a waiter
+came to us and asked which was Dr. L&mdash;.&nbsp; On being told,
+he said a messenger from the chief of police was in waiting,
+wishing to see him.&nbsp; I looked at the doctor and asked him
+what he had been doing.&nbsp; Having finished our dinner we
+adjourned to the office and found the officer, who said his chief
+had received a telegram from a man in some town a hundred miles
+inland requesting him to send &ldquo;his friend the Doctor&rdquo;
+up to him as soon as possible.&nbsp; Of course my friend, knowing
+nothing whatever of the man, declined to go up country.&nbsp; I
+mentioned these polite attentions to a gentleman who was dining
+at the same table, and who I found was the leading lawyer in the
+city.&nbsp; He told me it was a favourite dodge with the
+sharpers, and that they sometimes caught a &ldquo;flat&rdquo; in
+this way.&nbsp; On the arrival of ocean steamers it is the custom
+to publish the names of the passengers in the evening papers,
+which accounts for the familiarity of these fellows with the
+names of strangers.&nbsp; We had many amusing chats with this
+lawyer.&nbsp; He remarked one day that I must have met with a
+deal of &ldquo;character&rdquo; in travelling.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;I had, both good and
+bad.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Wa-a-l, I guess its better to meet with
+a <i>bad</i> character than none at all.&rdquo;&nbsp; Speaking of
+the neighbouring State of Nevada, which was still in a very
+unsettled condition, <a name="page140"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 140</span>he said a friend of his was Governor
+there, and that he &ldquo;was 6ft. 6in. in height, and had a
+number three head and a number fifteen foot, for,&rdquo; said he,
+&ldquo;I guess weight of foot is more important there than weight
+of brain.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>There are sharp men of business in the city who do not require
+offices in which to carry on their business.&nbsp; If you are
+walking in the streets with a friend, and, meeting someone else,
+stop for a chat, you will see a &rsquo;cute-looking fellow stop,
+and though he appears to be intent on something on the opposite
+side of the street, you will note that he is leaning his ear
+towards you, doubtless with the laudable intention of gaining a
+little information.&nbsp; On one occasion we met one of these
+individuals.&nbsp; He kept his ear open, and then struck in with
+&ldquo;I guess you are going through to England.&nbsp; I can put
+you up to the best way of doing it and calculate I can save you
+from forty to fifty dollars on the job.&rdquo;&nbsp; We say we
+are much obliged, and will perhaps &ldquo;call
+again.&rdquo;&nbsp; Then as you proceed along the streets
+attenuated fellows, with scanty, pointed beards and Mother
+Shipton hats, accost you with &ldquo;Going east, gentlemen?&nbsp;
+Guess you&rsquo;ll want to change some money.&nbsp; Come with me,
+gentlemen, and I&rsquo;ll take you to the right
+place.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Thank you,&rdquo; we say, &ldquo;not
+to-day.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Wa-a-l, guess exchange will go
+against you to-morrow, gentlemen.&rdquo;&nbsp; Observing on the
+door of a very handsome house a brass name-plate with the name
+&ldquo;Mrs. Doctor Sanders,&rdquo; our guide informed us that
+there were many lady doctors in the city, and that they had very
+extensive practice.</p>
+<p>The Chinese are very numerous in San Francisco, there being
+more than 40,000 of them there.&nbsp; At the <a
+name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>time of my
+visit, the feeling of the rowdies ran very high against the
+Celestials, and threats of wholesale massacre were freely used
+against them.&nbsp; John Chinaman is a most industrious, frugal
+man, spending very little upon his living, and nothing upon his
+pleasures, always excepting his infatuation for opium.&nbsp; His
+needs being few, he can afford to work for very small pay, and
+thus comes into competition with the white workman.&nbsp; This is
+the head and front of his offending, but it is aggravated by the
+fact of his being equally skilful as an artificer.&nbsp; While
+the artisans have their special grievances about the Chinese, the
+wealthy classes have theirs also.&nbsp; It is true
+&ldquo;John&rdquo; does his master&rsquo;s work well and cheaply,
+but, as I have said before, he is not a spending man; his sole
+object is to get what the Yankees call &ldquo;his little
+pile&rdquo; as quickly as possible, and then return to his native
+land.&nbsp; Nor is this surprising when we consider that every
+Chinaman leaves his little &ldquo;Min-ne&rdquo; behind him when
+he quits the Flowery Land, it being a very rare thing for a woman
+to leave China.</p>
+<p>The Chinese quarter is full of interest; the people swarm like
+bees, and live in a frightfully overcrowded state.&nbsp; The
+butchers&rsquo; and barbers&rsquo; shops are the most numerous
+and most interesting, the former being filled with a quantity of
+dreadful-looking little portions of meat, but it would puzzle the
+most learned to say from what animal they were cut.&nbsp; The
+barbers&rsquo; shops are situated in the basements of the houses,
+with an open front towards the street, and they are very
+numerous, for the Chinese are close shavers.&nbsp; On looking
+down you may see a number of men seated <a
+name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>in a
+variety of positions, each one smoking a pipe of opium, while the
+barber is occupied in shaving every portion of his head and face,
+excepting, of course, his beloved pig-tail.&nbsp; The swell
+Chinee is very particular that every hair shall be removed, and
+so clever do the operators become that, by means of tiny razors,
+they can shave the inside of the nose.&nbsp; Some of the
+pig-tails are of enormous length, and sometimes the white rowdies
+attack the Chinese and cut their pig-tails off.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p142.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Chinaman (from a sketch by the Author)"
+title=
+"The Chinaman (from a sketch by the Author)"
+src="images/p142.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>When a man has an especially fine one, he either rolls it up
+at the back of his head and fastens it with hairpins, or else
+tucks it inside his blouse.&nbsp; I noticed one of the latter in
+particular, a glimpse of which would have delighted Darwin
+himself.&nbsp; The owner had evidently let down his back hair
+before putting on his blouse, and consequently the pig-tail,
+which disappeared at the back of the neck, emerged from under the
+blouse and extended to his heels.</p>
+<p><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>Some
+of our party, wishing to explore the Chinese quarter by night,
+engaged a detective to accompany them, it being unsafe to go
+unless so escorted.&nbsp; The guide first took them over a
+lodging house, in which some hundred Chinamen were stowed away,
+literally almost as thick as herrings in a barrel.&nbsp; Not only
+was the floor thickly covered, but suspended above it was a layer
+in hammocks, some smoking opium and others sleeping, none,
+however, taking the slightest notice of the intruding party.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p143.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Little Min-ne"
+title=
+"Little Min-ne"
+src="images/p143.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>On visiting the Chinese theatre during the evening they found
+preparations being made to celebrate a Celestial wedding.&nbsp;
+This decided them to stay and see the ceremony, which was
+attended by a vast number of Chinese, the theatre being crowded
+in every part.&nbsp; After the ceremony most of the spectators
+formed in the procession, which escorted the happy pair to their
+home.&nbsp; My friends also visited the Joss Houses and inspected
+the queer-looking gods contained in them.</p>
+<p><a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>While
+making some purchases in a Chinese shop it was necessary to give
+my address.&nbsp; I wrote it out on a card thus&mdash;<span
+class="GutSmall">TANG-YE</span>, upon which the Celestial at once
+claimed me as a countryman of his.&nbsp; I disabused his mind of
+that idea by putting my fingers to the outer corners of my eyes
+and pretending to extend them in an upward direction, the absence
+of which peculiarity showed conclusively that I was not of the
+true Mongol type.&nbsp; Curiously, however, on afterwards
+consulting a gazetteer, I found that there is in China a city
+named <span class="GutSmall">TANG-Y</span>, containing over
+30,000 inhabitants.</p>
+<p>The Chinese are accused of having brought with them a number
+of objectionable practices, but to anyone possessing a knowledge
+of the lower classes in American cities, it will not appear
+possible that the Chinese can be very much worse than they.</p>
+<p>Most of the traffic in San Francisco is carried on by the
+tramways, and it may not be out of place to put intending
+visitors on their guard with respect to a little peculiarity in
+their management.&nbsp; It is advisable to tender the exact fare
+if possible, for if you give a larger sum the balance is returned
+to you, not in cash, but in tickets available for future rides,
+which you may have no opportunity of taking.&nbsp; The hackney
+carriages are very fine, being almost equal to English private
+carriages.&nbsp; Most of those I saw were splendidly horsed with
+a pair of magnificent animals, generally black.&nbsp; The lowest
+fare taken is ten shillings, but I am bound to say you can have
+full value for your money in the time and the accommodation given
+you.</p>
+<p>On Sunday morning the city presents a very lively
+aspect.&nbsp; The fire-brigades and volunteers parade the <a
+name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>streets,
+preceded by their bands, and thousands of people go by tramway
+and other vehicles to see the famous sea-lions at the entrance to
+the bay.&nbsp; From the grounds in front of Cliff House they are
+seen on the rocks below in large numbers, tumbling about and
+making a noise like the barking of dogs, but so loud as to be
+heard from a distance of nearly a mile.</p>
+<p>The climate is a delightful one, the temperature being
+singularly equable, ranging, as it does, in summer from 60&deg;
+to 70&deg;, and in winter from 50&deg; to 60&deg; Fahr.&nbsp;
+Indeed the weather is so beautiful that one cannot help referring
+to it frequently, but the invariable reply to any such
+observation is, &ldquo;Well, I guess we shall have three months
+just the same right slick away.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p145.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Seal Rocks, San Francisco"
+title=
+"Seal Rocks, San Francisco"
+src="images/p145.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After nearly a fortnight&rsquo;s stay at the Palace Hotel,
+enjoying its good fare, we began to think it time to move
+eastward, as we were getting too luxurious in our habits.&nbsp;
+My friend the lawyer, however, remarked that we need have no fear
+on that account, as the fare on <a name="page146"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 146</span>the Pacific Railway would cure the
+severest attack of gout.&nbsp; Before leaving San Francisco we
+met our old friend &ldquo;Mister&rdquo; twice.&nbsp; From a
+report in the newspapers we learnt that he had been brought
+before the magistrates and fined for carrying fire-arms in the
+streets.&nbsp; &ldquo;Mister&rdquo; told us the police had taken
+all his money on the pretence of taking care of it for him.&nbsp;
+When we last saw him he was leaning against a lamp-post,
+helplessly drunk.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p146.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Last of &ldquo;Mister&rdquo;"
+title=
+"The Last of &ldquo;Mister&rdquo;"
+src="images/p146.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The great excursion from San Francisco is of course to the
+Yosemite Valley, but we were compelled to forego the pleasure of
+making it on account of our visit being too early in the
+season.&nbsp; Some of our fellow-voyagers from the Colonies
+ventured to go, but, unfortunately, they met with a serious
+carriage accident, owing to the roughness of the road, caused by
+the breaking up of the frost.</p>
+<p>In order to secure a good seat in the train going East, it is
+necessary to make arrangements a few <a name="page147"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 147</span>days before starting.&nbsp; Tickets
+can be obtained at a score of places in the city, and should be
+got as soon as possible; and in order to save all unnecessary
+trouble with the luggage during the journey, sufficient for use
+in travelling should be separately packed, and the remainder
+handed over to the Baggage Master, who has an office in the
+hotel, and who will give checks in exchange, and undertake to
+deliver it at any hotel or railway station in New York, or any
+other place in the States that may be named.&nbsp; By attending
+to this overnight, immense trouble is saved, for, if left until
+the morning of departure, each traveller has to look after his
+own baggage amid a scene of the wildest confusion, and quite
+unprotected from the terrible heat and dust.&nbsp; It was with a
+sense of great relief that we began to move out of the station,
+and to feel that at last we were fairly started on our ride
+across the Rocky Mountains.&nbsp; The railway ride for the first
+two hundred and fifty miles is a splendid one, through the
+magnificent Sacramento Valley, which I should think is fifteen or
+twenty miles wide, and is most fertile.&nbsp; Here corn is grown
+year after year without any manuring being required.&nbsp; In
+many &ldquo;cuttings&rdquo; through which we passed the soil was
+twenty feet deep.&nbsp; We passed fields hundreds of acres in
+extent, with nice houses, orchards, and gardens, surrounded by
+fine oaks and elms, making the country look like a park for a
+hundred miles.&nbsp; The corn, which in many places was over ten
+feet high, was fast ripening, and its glorious golden colour was
+often charmingly varied by immense patches of Marigold,
+Eschscholtzia, Lupins, and another beautiful flower which we did
+not recognise, all in full bloom.&nbsp; We also <a
+name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>saw our old
+Tasmanian friend the Eucalyptus (commonly called the Gum Tree),
+and many of the quaint Dor&eacute;-like dead Blue Gums, looking
+white and ghostly.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p148.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Eucalyptus (from a sketch by the Author)"
+title=
+"The Eucalyptus (from a sketch by the Author)"
+src="images/p148.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>This is a magnificent State.&nbsp; A gentleman remarked to me
+that when the richness of the soil is exhausted there remains
+untold mineral wealth below.&nbsp; The people, too, are very
+energetic, and there is abundance of capital; so much so that a
+moneylender travelling in our carriage complained that it is
+difficult to get fifteen per cent. per annum now when some twelve
+years ago he could easily obtain five per cent. per month.</p>
+<p>Soon after leaving Sacramento the track ascends the mountains
+and passes through the old gold-diggings so much spoken of thirty
+years ago.&nbsp; They are visible all around for miles, and some
+are still being worked.&nbsp; <a name="page149"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 149</span>All the abandoned ones have been
+re-worked by the Chinese, who have got a great deal out of
+them.&nbsp; By and by we stopped at a station where there were
+several dreadful-looking Indians, some with their faces covered
+with red ochre and with feathers in their hair; others dressed in
+scarlet blankets, tall white hats, one-legged trousers and
+moccasins.&nbsp; They all looked very grave and stolid.&nbsp; I
+did my best to make one old fellow laugh as he stood on the
+platform with his arms folded, but his face was stony, and he
+remained steadfast and unmoveable.&nbsp; Their hair is like
+whalebone, matted and shaggy; their noses and mouths are broad,
+and the women look uglier than the men.&nbsp; Several of the
+women were carrying their <i>papooses</i> (babies) suspended over
+their shoulders, with the legs swathed like Neapolitan
+children.&nbsp; The only occupation of these degraded creatures
+is begging and stealing.</p>
+<p>While we were passing through swampy tract the large
+bull-frogs were giving a croaking concert in full chorus, and a
+rare noise they made.</p>
+<p>Soon we began to sight the snow mountains, and by nine
+o&rsquo;clock we were right amongst the pine forests and the
+snow, and very beautiful the scene looked with the moon shining
+on it all.</p>
+<p>Life on board a &ldquo;Pullman&rdquo; train is almost more
+peculiar than life on board ship.&nbsp; My party were fortunate
+enough to secure a cabin partitioned off from the rest of the
+carriage; but the remainder of the sleeping berths have no
+partitions, being separated merely by curtains.&nbsp;
+Inexperienced travellers are apt to forget this, and sometimes
+cause much amusement in consequence.&nbsp; One morning I heard a
+young lady <a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+150</span>complaining to her mamma that she could not find her
+stockings, a remark eliciting numerous offers of assistance from
+all parts of the carriage.&nbsp; A neighbouring compartment was
+occupied by a lady and gentleman, the former of whom was deaf,
+and with the peculiarity often observable in deaf people, she
+imagined everyone else was deaf as well; the consequence being
+that there were no secrets in that cabin.&nbsp; Every carriage
+has a negro attendant, whose duty it is to make the beds and
+attend to the lavatories, the ladies&rsquo; and gentlemen&rsquo;s
+lavatories being at opposite ends of the carriage.&nbsp; At
+half-past nine o&rsquo;clock Sambo begins to prepare the beds,
+and soon after ten almost everyone has retired, and, as
+fortunately there are no decks to be paced, sleep soon comes to
+the weary.&nbsp; Arrangements are made for three meals a day, the
+train stopping at stations convenient for the purpose, and notice
+being given half-an-hour before.&nbsp; Half-an-hour is allowed
+for each meal, the invariable charge being one dollar.&nbsp; As
+the train stops a general stampede is made toward the
+dining-room, the position of which is unmistakable, for at the
+door stands a negro, with a face devoid of expression, vigorously
+sounding a gong.&nbsp; As each person passes in he pays his
+dollar, and makes a rush to the end of the room, where the cook
+is usually stationed.&nbsp; And now happy is he who possesses the
+Yankee&rsquo;s qualification for a good diner-out, for unless he
+has a long arm, a quick eye, and a silent tongue, he is likely to
+come off with much less than a dollar&rsquo;s worth.&nbsp; The
+experienced traveller, before sitting down, gathers all the
+dishes before him, within arm&rsquo;s length, and then proceeds
+to attack them <i>seriatim</i>, or <a name="page151"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 151</span>sometimes all at once.&nbsp; Indeed,
+I think a man of naturally generous disposition, would be made
+utterly selfish by twelve months&rsquo; travelling on American
+railroads.&nbsp; As soon as the half-hour has gone, the guard
+calls out with a shrill, nasal, Yankee twang, &ldquo;All
+aboard,&rdquo; and we once more continue our journey.</p>
+<p>Happening one day to say to a fellow-passenger that I was from
+Birmingham, an American gentleman hearing me came across the
+carriage, and, raising his hat, said: &ldquo;I <i>must</i> shake
+hands with a person coming from the city which returns John
+Bright to Parliament.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Pacific Railroad is a single track, and, although a
+wonderful engineering work, is not by any means a substantial or
+confidence-inspiring line, if judged by English standards.&nbsp;
+The rails are old and worn, the bridges and viaducts very lightly
+constructed, and almost always of wood.&nbsp; I observed in
+several cases that the carriages were actually wider than the
+viaducts, many of which are open between the rails.&nbsp; It is
+hardly to be wondered at that awful accidents sometimes
+occur.&nbsp; The train in which we were travelling narrowly
+escaped falling into a ravine 120 feet deep.&nbsp; One dark
+night, after we had all retired to rest, we were awakened by
+continued whistling and ringing of bells.&nbsp; It was in vain
+that we inquired of the guards and attendants as to what was
+going on, for they, like their brethren all the world over, would
+give no information.&nbsp; One thing, however, they could not
+hide from us, for we found we were being taken across a viaduct
+one carriage at a time, and as we crossed we could see lights
+moving about at a great depth below.&nbsp; On arriving at Omaha,
+<a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>two days
+later, we found a full report of the occurrence in the
+papers.&nbsp; It appears that the viaduct had been discovered to
+be in an unsafe condition, some of its timbers having been
+partially burnt, and it was a matter of discussion whether we
+should be allowed to cross at all; it being ultimately
+determined, as I have said, to take one car over at a time.&nbsp;
+Ours was the last train that went over, for before daylight the
+whole structure had fallen with a tremendous crash.&nbsp; The
+Indians were on the war-path at the time, and it was supposed
+that the work of destruction was theirs.&nbsp; The railway here
+runs through some of the most magnificent scenery in the
+world.&nbsp; Sometimes its course lies through narrow valleys, or
+ca&ntilde;ons, where there is just room for the railway and the
+river, sometimes through immense pine forests, and then again on
+a mere shelf cut in the face of the granite mountain, until the
+point called &ldquo;Cape Horn&rdquo; is reached.&nbsp; This is
+the turning-point between east and west, and soon afterwards the
+greatest elevation is attained, 8,200 feet.&nbsp; About sixty
+miles of the more exposed portion of the road is covered with
+sheds, to protect it from the snow.&nbsp; This result, however,
+is not attained without considerable discomfort to the
+passengers, as the carriages become filled with smoke and dust
+while passing through.</p>
+<p>One of the passengers on our train was an old man who had not
+crossed the country since he went out to the far west some
+twenty-six years before&mdash;long before the railway had been
+thought of.&nbsp; The party with which he then travelled was so
+large that it had to be split into detachments for the
+convenience of pasturage.&nbsp; One night his section was
+attacked by Indians, who <a name="page153"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 153</span>killed several of the party and
+drove off most of the horses and cattle.&nbsp; The old man had
+for many years been a trapper in the Indian country and had
+invested his hard-won earnings in horses which he was taking out
+west for the purpose of trade, and he was not disposed to lose
+them all at one fell swoop without making a bold dash for their
+recovery.&nbsp; His plan of operations was soon settled, and in
+the evening he set off in pursuit with half-a-dozen picked men,
+each with his rifle and a good store of ammunition.&nbsp; After
+some hours they came upon the scent of the Indians, and moving
+cautiously forward amongst the scrub, presently saw them around
+their fires busily engaged in dividing the spoils of the
+morning.&nbsp; The trapper being a first-rate marksman, it was
+agreed he should do all the firing, while the others loaded and
+handed up the rifles as fast as required.&nbsp; Every shot told,
+and the redskins, judging from the rapid firing that the whole
+party of white men were upon them, made a regular stampede,
+leaving horses, and cattle, and other spoil behind them.&nbsp;
+So, painfully marching on, they came at last to the Mormon
+settlement and on to the Salt Lake City, where they were
+subjected to the most cruel treatment at the hands of the
+&ldquo;Saints.&rdquo;&nbsp; These people told the travellers it
+was impossible to get to California by the route they were
+taking, as the country was swarming with hostile Indians, and
+they undertook to show them a better way by which they would get
+there in fifteen days.&nbsp; Many suspected treachery, and a
+consultation was held, which came to no definite conclusion,
+except in the case of one man, who, in the heat of debate, was
+shot dead.&nbsp; It was ultimately decided to adopt the <a
+name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>Mormon
+advice, and as the route did not admit of wagons, they tried to
+sell them to the &ldquo;Saints,&rdquo; who, of course, would not
+buy, knowing they would have them for nothing before long.&nbsp;
+Many of the travellers burnt their wagons and harness rather than
+that the Mormons should have them, but the majority abandoned
+theirs, and set out without them.&nbsp; Instead of fifteen days
+the journey took thirty-nine, and only a few survived it, most of
+the party dying by the way, either by the hand of the Indians or
+from fatigue.</p>
+<p>For about a thousand miles the railway is open to the prairie,
+the consequence being that frequent accidents occur through
+cattle straying upon the track.&nbsp; I counted more than twenty
+carcases of these unfortunates in one day, and on one occasion,
+while sitting on the steps of the Pullman car, I felt a sudden
+check, and immediately after the body of a cow flew past.&nbsp;
+The herds are looked after by men with lassoes, riding very fleet
+horses.&nbsp; American railroads being much less protected from
+stray animals than those in England, the locomotives are provided
+with an apparatus called a &ldquo;cow-catcher,&rdquo; which
+consists of an iron framework projecting in front and inclined
+downwards as near to the rails as possible.&nbsp; The contrivance
+is successful in moving most living obstacles from the
+track.&nbsp; For instance, when a cow gets between the rails and
+sees the train approaching, it becomes dazed, and the iron frame
+striking the lower portion of the legs takes it up readily.&nbsp;
+But with a bull it is quite different: when his lordship sees his
+enemy approaching he puts his chin down upon his fore-feet and
+waits the onset with a confidence not by any means always <a
+name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>misplaced,
+for in this position his head and feet form a wedge which,
+becoming inserted beneath the iron frame, frequently throws the
+engine back upon the train, causing serious accidents.&nbsp; When
+at Ogden I saw the remains of a goods train which had been
+wrecked in this way a week before, the engine drivers being
+killed, also two stow-aways, or &ldquo;dead-heads,&rdquo; as the
+Yankees call them, who had secreted themselves under one of the
+carriages.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p155.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Salt Lake"
+title=
+"Salt Lake"
+src="images/p155.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Waking one morning we found ourselves in a most awfully
+desolate country, with scarcely a sign of vegetation&mdash;a
+veritable dry and thirsty land, through which we travelled all
+day.&nbsp; Towards evening we came to the alkali country, and the
+plains looked as though they were covered with snow.&nbsp; This
+is a fearful place, where, before the construction of the
+railway, many poor emigrants have lain down to die.&nbsp; Soon
+after, we skirted the margin of the Great Salt Lake and entered
+Brigham Young&rsquo;s dominions, passing his first town,
+&ldquo;Corinn&eacute;.&rdquo;&nbsp; This town was founded by the
+Gentiles after Brigham turned them out of the Salt Lake City, but
+he soon drove them farther off.</p>
+<p><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>We
+left the train at Odgen in order to pay a short visit to the Salt
+Lake City, which is situated thirty-six miles off, and is
+approached by a railway belonging to the Saints.&nbsp; For beauty
+of situation Salt Lake City is almost unrivalled.&nbsp; It lies
+in a basin more than twenty miles in diameter, and is surrounded
+by mountains, some of which are 12,000 feet high, and most of
+them covered with perpetual snow.&nbsp; At the time of our visit
+the fruit-trees were in full bloom, and, as each house is
+surrounded by its garden, the city occupies a large extent of
+ground, presenting a beautiful appearance from the United States
+camp, which stands on an elevation commanding the whole city,
+about two miles off.&nbsp; A portion of the old mud wall, about
+ten feet high, built by the Mormons to resist the attack of the
+Indians, still remains standing.&nbsp; Several of the houses are
+exceedingly well built, and the gardens kept in excellent order;
+one in particular I was much struck with, and remarked to our
+guide that it was the brightest and best kept place I had seen
+since leaving England.&nbsp; He told me it belonged to an
+Englishman who had left for his native country on the previous
+day.&nbsp; Curiously enough, when I returned home, I found this
+man was a brother of my butcher, and was then on a visit
+home.&nbsp; We observed two ladies sitting in the front of the
+house engaged in needlework, and were told that they were the two
+wives of the English Mormon.&nbsp; It was very noticeable that
+these ladies sat at a considerable distance apart, cordiality
+(unless it be of hatred) not being a characteristic of these
+Mormon wives in their relations with each other.&nbsp; At the
+time of our visit the &ldquo;Prophet&rdquo; was down south,
+looking out for a new <a name="page157"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 157</span>location for the Saints, in view of
+the threatened difficulties with the Central Government.&nbsp; We
+visited the Tabernacle, and saw the preparations for the new
+temple, to which the deluded of all nations continue to
+contribute, although it is exceedingly doubtful that the building
+will be carried to completion.&nbsp; The man who showed us over
+the Tabernacle used to work in a London factory; but he told us
+with a curious twinkle in his eye that the &ldquo;new job&rdquo;
+paid him much the best.&nbsp; At a short distance from the city
+there is a sulphur spring, of considerable volume, proceeding
+from the side of the mountains; the temperature of the water is
+such that eggs can be boiled in it.&nbsp; We slept at Ogden that
+night in order to be in good time for securing places in the
+train going east in the morning.&nbsp; When the hotel bill was
+presented I tendered English gold in payment, having disposed of
+my U.S. currency.&nbsp; The landlord refused to take it, saying,
+&ldquo;He would not have the &mdash; British gold.&rdquo;&nbsp; I
+explained to him that I had no other money, but to no purpose,
+so, as the train was almost due, I told him I would pay him when
+I came that way again, but was not sure when that would be.&nbsp;
+He quietly said, &ldquo;I guess I&rsquo;ll take your gold,&rdquo;
+much to the amusement of the bystanders.&nbsp; At the station
+here is a printed notice cautioning travellers to &ldquo;<span
+class="smcap">Beware of Bogus Ticket Sellers</span>.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>For three days after leaving Ogden we travelled through the
+snow, passing through a series of ca&ntilde;ons or gorges, which
+narrow at the base until there is just room for the brawling
+stream which runs along the bottom.&nbsp; The railway in such
+cases is either excavated on one side of the gorge or carried on
+trestles over the <a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+158</span>stream.&nbsp; The rocks on the mountain sides, mostly
+of red sandstone, are very bold and of strange shapes.&nbsp;
+Amongst them is a very weird-looking group called &ldquo;The
+Witches.&rdquo;&nbsp; Another group, known as &ldquo;The
+Buttes,&rdquo; bears a most striking resemblance to a line of
+strong fortifications commanding the valley.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p158.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Monument Rock"
+title=
+"Monument Rock"
+src="images/p158.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We saw these at sunset, and the effect of the evening light
+upon the red sandstone was very fine.&nbsp; In the same
+neighbourhood is the celebrated Devil&rsquo;s Slide; it is formed
+by the earth being gradually washed away from between two lines
+of vertical strata about 20ft. apart.&nbsp; It is <a
+name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>some
+hundreds of feet in length, and descends into the river.&nbsp;
+This valley was the route taken by the Western Pioneers, and is
+marked here and there by solitary graves with crosses at their
+heads.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p159.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Devil&rsquo;s Slide"
+title=
+"The Devil&rsquo;s Slide"
+src="images/p159.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The whole 8,000 feet descent from the summit to the eastern
+plains is made in about four hours.&nbsp; The steam is turned
+off, the brakes turned on, and down we go.&nbsp; As we were
+preparing to descend I remarked to the negro attendant that I
+supposed we must trust the engineer now?&nbsp; &ldquo;No,
+sah,&rdquo; said Sambo, &ldquo;I guess we must trust de ole man
+up above,&rdquo; pointing to the skies.</p>
+<h2><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+160</span>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+<p>On reaching Chicago we left &ldquo;the overland train,&rdquo;
+with the object of paying a short visit to Niagara.&nbsp; The
+last stage of our long ride was from Omaha, during which we
+crossed the Missouri and Mississippi.&nbsp; There being three
+competing lines to Chicago the pace became greatly accelerated,
+so much so that during a considerable portion of the long ride it
+was almost impossible to stand on one&rsquo;s feet, and the
+country being very dry, the train was enveloped in a cloud of
+dust almost the whole of the way.&nbsp; We had, however, one
+compensation, for attached to the train was a well-appointed
+dining-car, with first-rate cuisine.&nbsp; The viands were of the
+choicest quality, and in great variety.&nbsp; Moreover, the speed
+of the train was slackened during meals, an arrangement affording
+a degree of comfort unknown on the Pacific Line.&nbsp; The bill
+of fare is a curiosity in its way, being garnished with
+appetising mottoes and sentiments, such <a
+name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>as,
+&ldquo;As you journey through life live by the way,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Eat and be satisfied,&rdquo; and concluding with an
+expression of belief that passengers would appreciate this new
+feature of &ldquo;Life on the Road.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In going through Chicago we were much surprised by the fine
+and substantial-looking buildings in every part of the
+city.&nbsp; There are fifty to one hundred streets, any one of
+which is equal to the best in London; indeed, it struck me as
+being more of a city than any place I had ever been in.&nbsp; We
+observed a whole block of buildings, including a bank on the
+ground floor, and offices above, being removed bodily without any
+disturbance of the business operations going on in it.&nbsp; The
+water for the city supply is taken from Lake Michigan through a
+pipe which extends two miles into the lake.&nbsp; The capacity of
+the pumping engines is seventy-five millions of gallons per day,
+the greatest demand being forty-five millions.&nbsp; During the
+last few years there have been many disastrous fires in Chicago,
+directly traceable to the general employment of timber not only
+in buildings, but for the side walks and roadways.&nbsp; The
+broad streets referred to above are, however, constructed of a
+fine warm-coloured sandstone, and all the new streets are being
+made of the same material.&nbsp; Nevertheless, a considerable
+number of timber houses remain, constituting a standing danger to
+the city.&nbsp; While in Chicago I found my passport
+useful.&nbsp; On going to the bank to get some money on my Letter
+of Credit the manager told me they had not received a copy of my
+signature from the bank in England, and that in its absence they
+could not honour my draft.&nbsp; It was in vain that I showed him
+my watch and other articles <a name="page162"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 162</span>having my name engraved upon
+them.&nbsp; He looked at them as though he thought there were
+various ways of getting possession of such articles.&nbsp; I told
+him I regretted I had not been born with my name on my person,
+but I was not accountable for the omission.&nbsp; I then thought
+of my passport, and although he appeared to think that it was
+possible to obtain possession of that improperly, he accepted it
+with the remark that &ldquo;even that is not conclusive,&rdquo;
+for it should have had a description of my person.&nbsp; We
+stayed at the Grand Pacific Hotel, which formed a great contrast
+to the Palace Hotel at San Francisco, being uncomfortable and
+badly administered.</p>
+<p>At Detroit we cross the frontier into Canada, travelling over
+the Great Western Railway to Niagara.&nbsp; This line was
+constructed by English contractors, and the superiority of the
+work is manifested in the smooth, steady motion of the
+carriages.&nbsp; Compared with the lines we had previously
+traversed this was most comfortable.&nbsp; We pass through
+London, Paris, and other places with equally celebrated names,
+greatly enjoying the forest scenery, numerous clearings and
+bright little homesteads dotted over the country; and for the
+first time since leaving England seeing lovely green fields such
+as we have at home.&nbsp; At Niagara we stopped at the famous
+Clifton House, where we were joined by friends from England.</p>
+<p>Our impressions of Niagara were those common to most
+visitors&mdash;first, a feeling of disappointment, soon
+succeeded, however, by an ever-increasing sense of the immensity
+and magnificence of the Falls, which grows upon one the more one
+sees them.</p>
+<p><a name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>A
+sentiment of disgust, however, is inspired by the ruthless
+desecration of the most beautiful spots by Yankee manufacturers,
+who have chosen such picturesque positions for their smoky
+factories.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p163.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Under the Falls, Niagara"
+title=
+"Under the Falls, Niagara"
+src="images/p163.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Another annoyance constantly experienced is from the
+peripatetic photographer, who endeavours to persuade you that you
+are greater than the &ldquo;Falls.&rdquo;&nbsp; The Falls,
+indeed, are made to seem a mere background to your photograph, <a
+name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>in which he
+is careful to show you nearest the camera, and hence
+proportionately by far the most imposing object.</p>
+<p>To get into Canada we have to cross the suspension
+bridge.&nbsp; Going over one day we purchased about &pound;1
+worth of photographs of Canadian scenery.&nbsp; On returning with
+them we were accosted by the American customs officer, who
+mulcted us in nearly twenty shillings duty.&nbsp; On entering his
+office to obtain a receipt we observed a
+&ldquo;six-shooter&rdquo; at his right hand, presumably for the
+purpose of persuasion.&nbsp; On leaving the place I met an
+American policeman and told him what a shabby transaction it was
+for the representatives of so great a country.&nbsp; He replied
+that he guessed the officer must raise his salary.&nbsp; I
+refrain from any attempt to describe the mighty Falls of
+Niagara.</p>
+<p>On our way to New York we travelled by railway to Albany, the
+capital of the State of New York, passing through Syracuse, Rome,
+and Utica, along the shores of Lake Ontario, although from the
+lowering of the ground and the abundance of trees we were unable
+to see the lake; thence alongside the Falls River, through very
+charmingly diversified country with numerous valleys going up
+from the waterside, well-timbered, and here and there a clearing
+with open green fields.&nbsp; The houses are in most cases
+mean-looking plank erections, presenting a very weather-beaten
+appearance, some painted a very dark red colour.&nbsp; In the
+evening we reached Albany, an old Dutch town of over two hundred
+years, and very Dutch-looking it is with its queer red-brick
+houses, wooden pavements, and trees along the streets, and
+frequent peeps of the river here and there.&nbsp; Amongst <a
+name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>the finest
+public buildings are those devoted to the national schools, a
+true gauge of the importance the citizens attach to the education
+of the people.&nbsp; On our way to New York we had an opportunity
+of taking a day&rsquo;s sail on the River Hudson in one of the
+celebrated American river-boats.&nbsp; Going on board we found
+ourselves on a veritable floating palace.&nbsp; The steamer was a
+three-decker, two of the decks being covered with splendid
+carpets, and fitted with arm-chairs of a most comfortable
+pattern, and with velvet-covered ottomans and couches in all
+directions.&nbsp; Taking up one of the books from the
+well-stocked bookstall I saw it purported to be one of a series
+of standard works by American authors, and on looking down the
+list I observed the names of Tennyson, Barry Cornwall, and
+others.&nbsp; Our American cousins were always great at
+annexation, and the only wonder is they do not call their mother
+tongue the &ldquo;American language.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Americans seem anxious that everyone shall admit that the
+Hudson is finer than any other river in the world.&nbsp; I have
+been down the Elbe, through the Saxon Switzerland, also down the
+Danube and the Rhine.&nbsp; The Hudson is far more beautiful than
+the Rhine.&nbsp; The banks are thickly wooded, and the villages
+and country houses prettily situated.&nbsp; It is true that the
+Hudson lacks the romantic associations of the Rhine, but even in
+this respect it is not altogether wanting, for does it not
+possess the Catskill Mountains, with their legend of Rip Van
+Winkle?&nbsp; But I like the Danube best; its banks are loftier
+and more rugged, and are covered with pines, and from its
+comparative narrowness one can see both sides at once.&nbsp; Then
+<a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>again,
+the ancient towns and monasteries jutting out on the spits of
+land are infinitely more interesting than the wooden houses along
+the Hudson.&nbsp; Again, the Elbe, especially in the Saxon
+Switzerland, is decidedly more beautiful than the Hudson; but for
+all this the latter is a river of which a nation may well be
+proud, and we greatly enjoyed our sail upon it.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p166.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Pallisades, Hudson River"
+title=
+"The Pallisades, Hudson River"
+src="images/p166.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 167</span>On a
+subsequent visit to the Hudson we landed at West Point, the seat
+of the celebrated military academy founded by Washington, where
+there are some hundreds of students.&nbsp; Our hotel was situated
+about two miles from the academy, and overlooked the river from
+an eminence of about two hundred feet.&nbsp; The river can be
+seen for some miles winding between steep banks on both
+sides.&nbsp; The morning after our arrival was a Sunday, and the
+church bells were ringing for service.&nbsp; There are two
+opposition churches here, but I have reason to believe they are
+very charitable to one another; at all events their respective
+bell-ringers do not believe in the jarring of the sects, for I
+notice that first one rings out
+one&mdash;two&mdash;three&mdash;four; then a decent pause, and
+his neighbour likewise rings out
+one&mdash;two&mdash;three&mdash;four, and so the celestial
+harmonies are not disturbed.</p>
+<p>On the opposite bank of the river is a place historic in the
+annals of the Revolution, for here it was that the American
+General Arnold was stationed while he was carrying on his
+treasonable correspondence with the ill-fated Major
+Andr&eacute;.&nbsp; Arnold was sitting at breakfast with his
+officers and some guests when word was brought him that
+Andr&eacute; was captured as a spy by the Americans.&nbsp;
+Knowing he would surely be incriminated, Arnold pretended he was
+wanted below on urgent business, and, going down to Beverley
+landing, he ordered his men to row him to the British man-of-war
+lying in the river.&nbsp; Poor Andr&eacute;, it will be
+remembered, was hanged by order of Washington.&nbsp; His bust was
+placed in Westminster Abbey; three times since then has it been
+mutilated by miscreants.&nbsp; Walking through <a
+name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>the village
+we observed a mean-looking tumble-down tenement, with an equally
+mean-looking signboard stuck upon it, bearing this
+inscription:&mdash;&ldquo;John Scales, Justice of the Peace,
+Notary Public.&rdquo;&nbsp; His &ldquo;Honour&rdquo; was sitting
+inside, in his shirt-sleeves, with a white apron on, while behind
+him on a shelf were a few old dry-as-dust books, of the law I
+suppose.&nbsp; The whole place looked totally at variance with
+our ideas of the majesty of the law; indeed it suggested that
+&ldquo;justice&rdquo; could be had for the buying, and that no
+one was expected to pay much regard to the decision of such a
+court.&nbsp; On returning to the hotel I spoke of this
+functionary to the negro waiter, suggesting that he <i>dealt</i>
+in justice, &ldquo;Yes, sah; I guess a dollar will go a long way
+with him,&rdquo; replied he.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p168.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"John Scales, Justice of the Peace"
+title=
+"John Scales, Justice of the Peace"
+src="images/p168.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Ascending the mountain we came across an old man at work on
+the roads.&nbsp; He was a German, having come to America in
+1841.&nbsp; He served in the Mexican war, and one of his sons was
+killed in the war against <a name="page169"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 169</span>the Southern rebels.&nbsp; The old
+man said it was hard work mending roads, and that the winters
+were very severe, &ldquo;but,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;it is a free
+country, and that makes up for all.&nbsp; In Germany a man dares
+not open his mouth, but here one can say what one
+likes.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Passing by a farmyard our curiosity was aroused by seeing the
+stock of poultry secured by the leg to the fence.&nbsp; As we had
+often heard in our travels in the States that this was &ldquo;a
+great country,&rdquo; we presume this was an expedient adopted to
+prevent the fowls straying and being lost.&nbsp; Of course,
+England being so small, such precautions are not necessary.</p>
+<p>We returned to New York in another of the celebrated
+river-boats.</p>
+<p>During my stay in the States there were two great subjects
+which monopolised public attention.&nbsp; These were the
+Centennial Exhibition which had just been opened: and the wave of
+corruption among officials and others which was sweeping over the
+land.&nbsp; More space was occupied in the Press by charges of
+malversation and fraud on the part of the officials, from the
+President down to the lowest civil service clerks, and from them
+through all grades of society, than with the Exhibition itself or
+with any other subject, while the talk in the streets seemed to
+be about nothing else.&nbsp; In alluding to the unlawful gains
+made in this way by many prominent citizens, a New York paper
+made use of a sentiment of Mark Twain to the effect that whereas
+in times past folks used to say &ldquo;poor but honest,&rdquo;
+now-a-days when you see a rich man who has accumulated money in a
+proper way it is said that he is &ldquo;rich but
+honest.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>I
+have travelled in many countries, but in almost everything have
+found America twice as dear as any other country.&nbsp; The
+charges are simply monstrous.&nbsp; Having to go from an hotel to
+the steam wharf, we were not permitted to take our very modest
+amount of luggage in the omnibus with us, although we had the
+vehicle all to ourselves; but the hotel people insisted upon
+sending it in a special wagon, charging two dollars for what a
+cabman in Birmingham would willingly have done for a
+shilling.&nbsp; On board the steamer we were charged six
+shillings each for a plain dinner, without wine, which in England
+would not have cost more than 1s. 6d.&nbsp; Bound books are
+equally dear.&nbsp; Pocket volumes, containing not more than
+one-sixth of the matter in a shilling volume of Chambers&rsquo;
+&ldquo;Miscellany of Entertaining Tracts,&rdquo; were charged two
+shillings each.&nbsp; Most of the newspapers, also, are very
+inferior to, yet much dearer than, the English papers.&nbsp;
+Another form of extortion is to be found in the impossibility, in
+many hotels, of obtaining information as to the sailing of
+river-boats, departure of trains, etc., the only apparent
+explanation being a desire to give &ldquo;touts&rdquo; and
+&ldquo;loungers,&rdquo; of whom there are many, opportunities of
+extorting money.&nbsp; These fellows seem to know nothing unless
+they can hear the dollars chink, or see the dirty greenbacks (and
+some of them are very dirty).&nbsp; A fellow once gave me in
+change a dollar note which was so filthy that scarcely a word was
+legible upon it.&nbsp; It looked as though it might contain
+smallpox or typhoid, so I asked him to wash it.&nbsp; He said he
+guessed he would&mdash;<i>for a dollar</i>.</p>
+<p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+171</span>Against all this, I am bound to say that the charges
+made by the steamboat companies and most of the railways are
+exceedingly moderate, and their arrangements in connection with
+baggage most convenient.&nbsp; On arriving at any of the large
+cities by river-boat, the agent of the Luggage Express Company
+comes on board and takes possession of your baggage, giving
+vouchers for it.&nbsp; He also undertakes to collect any baggage
+you may have sent to the City Railway Station from distant parts
+of the country, and very soon after you arrive at your hotel it
+is brought to you.&nbsp; At the landing stages in such cities as
+New York there are numbers of cabs, mostly driven by Irishmen,
+and when they find you have disposed of your luggage and do not
+require their services, they give vent to their disgust in no
+measured terms, and if the traveller is a Britisher, he is soon
+reminded of the fact.</p>
+<p>The mode of dealing with baggage on the railway is almost
+equally convenient.&nbsp; The following will give some idea of
+it.&nbsp; You are travelling, say, from Aberdeen to Penzance,
+intending ultimately to proceed by way of London to Dover, and do
+not require the bulk of your luggage till you arrive at the
+latter place.&nbsp; On leaving Aberdeen, the Baggage Master takes
+your superfluous luggage, putting brass labels upon it,
+thus&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align:
+center">ABERDEEN&mdash;DOVER.<br />
+846.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>giving you corresponding labels, after which you have no
+further occasion to trouble yourself in the matter until you get
+to Dover.</p>
+<p>We visited the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia for the
+purpose of inspecting the various productions <a
+name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+172</span>corresponding to our own, hoping, indeed expecting, to
+find something which would repay us for coming.&nbsp; We were,
+indeed, repaid, but in a sense totally opposed to what we
+expected, for we found that so far from Americans being in
+advance of the English, they were, in many cases, taking credit
+for so-called &ldquo;improvements&rdquo; (claiming them as
+novelties), which we had been familiar with, and had used in our
+own works many years before.&nbsp; They appear to be strangely
+unaware of what has been done in European countries, and a single
+instance will illustrate this.&nbsp; The machinery in the
+Exhibition was driven by a single large steam-engine.&nbsp; The
+newspapers made a great deal of this engine, declaring that it
+was the largest in the world, and that it had been made in the
+smallest State&mdash;Rhode Island.&nbsp; An American engineer
+with evident pride took us to see the big engine, which, after
+all, had a cylinder of only 70in. diameter.&nbsp; We told him
+that five-and-twenty years before a small engineering firm in
+Cornwall, England, had made several engines with cylinders 144in.
+in diameter, and which are yet at work.</p>
+<p>We were permitted to inspect some of the most important
+engineering establishments, and found the tools of such an
+inferior character that our only wonder was that they could
+produce either good or cheap work.&nbsp; In most cases the floors
+of the workshops were inches deep in ferruginous dust.&nbsp;
+Under such conditions every time a heavy casting is dropped on
+the floor a cloud of dust must rise, and entering the bearings of
+the tools, cut them up badly.&nbsp; We found many of the tools
+actually wedged up because of this.</p>
+<p><a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>An
+American manufacturer speaking to me of a visit he had paid to
+the Exhibition in company with his foreman, told me how
+astonished the latter was at the excellence of the European
+exhibits.&nbsp; He said he had no idea they could make the things
+half so well, &ldquo;for,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;they are almost
+as good as ours,&rdquo; and, I added, &ldquo;only one half the
+cost.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The agricultural machinery was exhibited in a separate
+building erected specially for its reception, and here the
+Americans were unmistakably far ahead of all competitors.</p>
+<p>At the time of our visit several consignments of calicoes had
+been made to England and to various British markets, and sold at
+prices considerably below what they could be produced at by
+English manufacturers.&nbsp; This incursion occasioned great
+disquietude in England until the cause was manifested&mdash;viz.,
+overproduction.&nbsp; On this point I read an article in a New
+York Protectionist paper intended as an answer to the Free Trade
+argument, that Protection increased the price of goods.&nbsp; The
+article stated that this was not so: and to prove its position
+said that the tendency of Protection was to induce people to go
+into manufacturing who know little or nothing of the processes
+they were undertaking, but who fancy that with the tariff of from
+40 per cent. to 80 per cent. upon foreign goods, there must
+necessarily be a sufficient margin to compensate for mistakes
+caused by their inexperience.&nbsp; &ldquo;And so it
+happens,&rdquo; continues the writer, &ldquo;that there is great
+over-production, ruinous competition among American
+manufacturers, frequent failures, and consequently large stocks
+of goods are forced on the markets at a great loss, the public
+getting <a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+174</span>cheap supplies in consequence.&rdquo;&nbsp; Adam Smith
+would scarcely have quoted this as one of the methods of adding
+to the wealth of nations.&nbsp; But if the people at large obtain
+their cotton goods cheaper through this system of
+over-production, it is clear that the millowners are not the only
+sufferers, for it appears from a speech delivered by Mr. Shearman
+of New York, at the Cobden Club dinner in the present year
+(1883), that the wages of the factory operatives are twenty per
+cent. less than in Lancashire, while their hours of labour are
+from eighteen to twenty per cent. longer.</p>
+<p>During the late Fair Trade agitation its advocates were never
+tired of telling the English working-classes that under
+Protection their brethren in America were prospering in a
+remarkable degree, but in the speech to which I have referred Mr.
+Shearman shows that the average wages in protected trades are
+actually less than in 1860, the last year of comparative Free
+Trade, and that while in the ten years previous, wages were
+constantly increasing, during the succeeding twenty years
+(1860&ndash;1880) there was no appreciable advance, while during
+the past three years they have been steadily declining; so that
+here we have one of the staple trades of the country requiring
+longer hours of labour from the operatives, at considerably lower
+wages than for the same class in England, while the cost of
+living is much higher than in this country, and the climate much
+more trying from the extremes of heat and cold.</p>
+<p>Nor is this all, for the American operatives have very much
+less relaxation than the same class in England, their holidays
+being very much fewer.&nbsp; Last year my workpeople, in addition
+to fifty-two Saturday <a name="page175"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 175</span>afternoons, had nineteen whole days,
+although there was abundance of work for them, and the
+necessities of the business only required six days closing of the
+works.&nbsp; The English artisan loves to have a deal of liberty,
+and his earnings enable him to indulge his desire in that
+respect.</p>
+<p>As may be supposed, the ranks of the operatives in the cotton
+mills of America receive no accession from England, but only from
+Germany and Scandinavia, where wages are low, and the oppressive
+military systems drive people from their native countries.</p>
+<p>During the last seven years of depression in trade in England
+it is well known that, taken as a whole, the working classes have
+suffered comparatively little, the loss falling mainly upon
+manufacturers, whose profits have been greatly lessened.&nbsp;
+But how would the working-classes have fared if, in addition to
+the loss of home trade involved in the failure of the crops for
+so many years, the same causes were in operation which make it
+impossible for America to have a great foreign trade?</p>
+<p>It is manifest that so long as Protection exists in the United
+States exports must necessarily be confined almost entirely to
+such commodities as other countries cannot produce.&nbsp; Until
+recently the home demand has kept the manufacturers in the States
+well employed; but competition has now become exceedingly fierce,
+and they are beginning to tread upon each other&rsquo;s
+heels.&nbsp; It is this state of things which is destined to
+exert the most potent influence upon the fate of
+Protection.&nbsp; The very class which has hitherto been loudest
+in demanding prohibitory duties upon imports, will soon, from
+sheer necessity, be found demanding their removal.</p>
+<p><a name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>It is
+worthy of note, too, that while under Protection the earnings of
+the producing class have been steadily declining, colossal
+fortunes, amounting in one case to twenty or thirty millions
+sterling, have been built up by individual monopolists.&nbsp; On
+the other hand, during the same period and under Free Trade,
+there has been a wider distribution of material comfort in
+England, and, as shown by the official returns, a decided
+decrease in the number of millionaires.</p>
+<p>In passing through America on my return from Australia in
+1876, I expressed the opinion that Free Trade there would be by
+no means an unmixed blessing for English manufacturers, for
+whereas at the present time a vessel going to Australia from the
+United States with a cargo of goods has to come back in ballast,
+doubling the cost of freight, under Free Trade it would take back
+a cargo of wool, and the Americans would consequently become our
+competitors both in buying and selling.</p>
+<p>With the single exception of having higher wages&mdash;and
+this advantage is more than balanced by the extra cost of
+living&mdash;I have failed to find that American artisans are in
+any way better off than the English, while, as I have already
+shown, their hours of labour are longer and the effect of the
+climate much more exhausting.</p>
+<p>A very striking feature to be met with in most American cities
+and towns is the large number of tolerably respectable-looking
+men loafing about and doing nothing.&nbsp; In England such men,
+only in shabbier dress, would be called
+&ldquo;cadgers.&rdquo;&nbsp; I am told there are large numbers
+who prefer any shifty mode of obtaining a living so long as they
+can wear a black coat <a name="page177"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 177</span>and avoid honest labour.&nbsp; In
+the villages along the banks of the Hudson I saw more children
+without shoes and stockings than are to be met with in any part
+of England in a similar area.&nbsp; They go to school shoeless,
+and a woman told me that when shoes were put on their feet on
+Sundays they complained loudly.&nbsp; A land of freedom for
+tongue and foot!</p>
+<p>During the Southern rebellion fears were expressed that the
+result of emancipation would be to flood the markets of the North
+with negro labour, but this does not appear to have been the
+case.&nbsp; As long as slavery existed the North was attractive
+to the negro as the land of freedom, but when freedom was
+proclaimed throughout the States the negro naturally elected to
+remain where he had always been&mdash;the climate and
+surroundings being well suited to him.&nbsp; The head waiter at
+our hotel at West Point was a slave in Richmond until the middle
+of the war, when he escaped to Washington.&nbsp; I asked him how
+he got there.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh, by the underground railway,&rdquo;
+said he.&nbsp; It took him a week to travel the hundred miles,
+and he had many narrow escapes, but was fortunate enough to come
+out all right and to get a situation to wait upon one of Abraham
+Lincoln&rsquo;s sons.&nbsp; He told me his owner, a lady, taught
+him to read and write in face of the certainty of being sent to
+jail in case of being discovered.&nbsp; His father was sold away
+down south sixteen years before, but since that day they had
+again met at Richmond.&nbsp; &ldquo;Well,&rdquo; I said,
+&ldquo;neither Jeff. Davis nor any of his crew will ever play you
+such pranks again.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;No Sir,&rdquo; said
+he.</p>
+<p>The regulation of the liquor traffic in the American cities
+appears to present as many difficulties as it does <a
+name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>in England,
+especially as regards the Sunday traffic.&nbsp; The Sunday before
+we left New York the police made a raid upon the liquor dealers
+in the city, and arrested a number of them for selling during
+prohibited hours.&nbsp; Their organs threatened all sorts of
+reprisals at the coming election, and a meeting of the trade was
+called to condemn the action of the authorities.&nbsp; Most of
+the requisitionists&mdash;judging by their names&mdash;were
+either German or Irish.&nbsp; At the time appointed some hundreds
+of liquor dealers assembled, and presently a gentleman came on
+the platform and began to address them.&nbsp; Soon, however, it
+began to dawn upon the trade that they had been somewhat
+considerably sold, for the speaker gave them a regular teetotal
+lecture, enlarging upon the evils the dealers were responsible
+for, and warning them to forsake their wicked ways.&nbsp; The
+audience could not stand this, and threatened the orator that if
+he didn&rsquo;t &ldquo;make tracks right away&rdquo; they would
+give him &ldquo;something hot,&rdquo; upon which he quietly
+retired, having given them the first temperance lecture they had
+ever heard.</p>
+<p>Our visit to America was brought to a fitting termination by
+another glorious excursion on the Hudson: after which it was with
+great pleasure and satisfaction that we went on board one of the
+splendid White Star Liners, soon to land again on the shores of
+dear old England.</p>
+<h2><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+181</span>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+<p>We arrived off Suez about four o&rsquo;clock on the morning of
+the 1st of March, having travelled from Australia in the
+magnificent steamship &ldquo;Orient.&rdquo;&nbsp; After saying
+farewell to our friends, at seven o&rsquo;clock we set out for
+the shore, our boat being manned by a picturesque party of Arabs.
+We had about four miles to go, the latter portion of the journey
+being through water so shallow that the men had to propel the
+boat by nimbly running forward and placing one end of the oar in
+the mud and pushing against the other with the shoulder; singing
+a monotonous song all the while.&nbsp; On arriving at our
+landing-place opposite the Custom House, a motley crowd rushed
+forward, some dressed in night-shirts, some in towels, others in
+their own black skins only. When we stopped, a score of them
+dashed into the water and began to seize our luggage, seeing
+which our boatmen called to us to beat them on the head with our
+umbrellas, and to kick them off; but we <a
+name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>managed to
+defend our property by loud words, which broke no bones.&nbsp;
+Then we were carried ashore amidst such shrieking, hustling,
+jostling, and shouting as I had never heard or seen before.&nbsp;
+The luggage was set down in the middle of the square to await the
+arrival of an official from the Custom House.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p182.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Dragoman"
+title=
+"A Dragoman"
+src="images/p182.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After a very slight examination we were permitted to pass, and
+then began another battle for the luggage; but we selected as our
+dragoman a tall, stout fellow named Hassan, who quickly routed
+the others; and then a file of these half-naked Arabs marched off
+to the hotel with the luggage on their backs.&nbsp; The Suez
+Hotel is a very comfortable establishment, with large, clean, and
+airy rooms, and bright and attentive native servants.</p>
+<p>After breakfast we went for a stroll through the town.&nbsp;
+The streets are very narrow, and the tiny <a
+name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 183</span>shops are
+filled with vegetables and other garden produce, oils, simple
+metal wares, etc.&nbsp; In one street the Bedouin Arabs have
+stalls for the sale of charcoal, brought by them from the desert;
+a very sullen, repulsive set of fellows they appear to be.&nbsp;
+There are few European buildings, and what there are were built
+for the French officials during the construction of the
+Canal.&nbsp; These were all vacated during the Franco-German war,
+and very few French have since returned, consequently the houses
+are in a very dilapidated condition.</p>
+<p>Before leaving England we had arranged for a party of our
+friends to meet us at Suez, and on returning from our stroll in
+the town, we walked for a while in the large inner court of the
+hotel, when presently we saw our friends entering, they having
+landed just three hours after our arrival from Australia.</p>
+<p>After lunch, nine of us took donkeys and had a ride round the
+town and neighbourhood.&nbsp; Not being assured of my riding
+ability, I asked my companions to keep near me, which they
+promised to do, and which they doubtless would have done if they
+could; but alas! their noble brutes dashed off at full speed, and
+I was left alone.&nbsp; At every street corner stood a mob of
+darkies shouting, laughing, and begging, and calling out the
+names of the various donkeys, &ldquo;Mrs. Langtry,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Mrs. Cornwallis West&rdquo; (this was mine), &ldquo;Mr.
+Spurgeon,&rdquo; etc.&nbsp; On getting back to the hotel gates
+there was a crowd of about fifty donkeys, all their fifty drivers
+wanting us to engage them for our next ride, and it required a
+vigorous use of Hassan&rsquo;s stick to clear a passage for
+us.</p>
+<p><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>On
+the following morning we left for Cairo by train, and in due time
+Hassan appeared with about a dozen men and a shaky old wagon to
+take our luggage to the station, and truly it was a formidable
+lot&mdash;a lady and gentleman from Australia having no less than
+nine trunks.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p184.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"An Egyptian Donkey-Boy"
+title=
+"An Egyptian Donkey-Boy"
+src="images/p184.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>At the hotel gate stood the usual fifty donkeys, their drivers
+all shrieking out to you to take their donkeys.&nbsp; &ldquo;My
+donkey good donkey, sah; his name, Mrs. Langtry.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;&lsquo;Dis donkey, Sir Roggar (<i>sic</i>) Tichborne, sah;
+he go gentle.&rdquo;&nbsp; You have to push through the crowd of
+men and animals as you best can.&nbsp; The <a
+name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+185</span>never-ceasing word <i>backsheesh</i>, or its
+abbreviation <i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>, hissing in your ear all the
+way.&nbsp; On suddenly turning a corner you may come upon a lot
+of children or grown-up people engaged in play or other
+occupation, but they are always ready.&nbsp; Their hands are
+immediately stretched out, and the cry is on their lips,
+<i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>! <i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>! nor do they seem
+surprised if you fail to respond.&nbsp; Sometimes I vary it by
+putting out my own hand, with temporary success as far as
+checking their begging goes, but they are soon equal to the
+occasion, and with mock gravity will offer a quarter
+piastre&mdash;about a halfpenny&mdash;and then you laugh and they
+laugh.</p>
+<p>I had often read, that properly to understand Biblical
+allusions it is necessary to travel in the East.&nbsp; This
+constant extending of the hand for <i>backsheesh</i> gave me an
+entirely new appreciation of the passage, &ldquo;Ethiopia shall
+yet stretch forth her hand.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>After much excitement the train at last starts, and a mob
+accompanied it as far as they can keep up by running, hoping
+against hope that you will at length relent and throw them some
+money.&nbsp; Once I offered a beggar a new penny, but he handed
+it back very gravely, saying &ldquo;No good&mdash;piastre&rdquo;
+(meaning that he wanted a piastre); but I pretended to be
+offended, and did not give him anything.</p>
+<p>Every little station on the road is infested with crowds of
+natives hoping for <i>backsheesh</i>, and it is wonderful what
+vast numbers of people there are who have nothing to do.&nbsp; At
+most stations you will see an ill-favoured fellow with a
+goat-skin across his back, filled with water, but I should have
+to be very thirsty <a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+186</span>indeed before I could drink from it.&nbsp; An hour
+after leaving Suez we saw our old friend the s.s. Orient in the
+Canal close alongside, having taken twenty-four hours to
+accomplish this distance.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p186.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The S.S. &ldquo;Orient.&rdquo;"
+title=
+"The S.S. &ldquo;Orient.&rdquo;"
+src="images/p186.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>At Ismailia we stopped some time, and a lad wanted to clean my
+boots which, however, did not require cleaning, so I told him to
+black the bare feet of a brown boy who was standing by.&nbsp;
+This he proceeded to do in the presence of a crowd of grinning
+spectators of all colours&mdash;yellow, brown, coffee-coloured,
+and jet black.&nbsp; The lad whose feet were blacked seemed to
+enjoy the fun very much, and when it was over appeared to think
+he was entitled to a half piastre as well as the operator, so he
+got it.&nbsp; The shoeblack then brought an ebony Nubian, whose
+skin was already a shining black.&nbsp; He asked me if he might
+do his feet, but I made him understand it was quite
+unnecessary.&nbsp; A grave-looking Turk observing the proceedings
+gave a look which seemed to say, &ldquo;Mad English
+again.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>At
+Zagazig we stayed two hours for luncheon, and were much
+interested with the infinite variety of costume and feature among
+the crowds thronging the station.&nbsp; About half an hour before
+reaching Cairo, on looking through the window, we had our first
+view of the Pyramids.&nbsp; On our arrival at Cairo we were
+greeted with a chorus of the usual kind, but having
+&ldquo;wired&rdquo; to the hotel a porter was awaiting us with an
+omnibus, and we were soon comfortably located in the new Grand
+Hotel.</p>
+<p>A walk to the Nile Bridge gave us a good view of the
+river.&nbsp; The road to the Pyramids passes for some distance
+through a fine avenue of trees, and the river having encroached
+on the soil too near to the roots, we saw for the first time a
+phase of Egyptian life which is not pleasant&mdash;viz., forced
+labour.&nbsp; About 1,500 men were engaged in piling up earth
+against the roots, forming a thick, deep embankment against the
+river.&nbsp; The soil is carried in baskets, and from the
+elevation where we stood the men looked like a swarm of
+ants.&nbsp; These men are provided by the Sheiks of the villages
+on the demand of the Government, who pay nothing whatever for the
+labour.&nbsp; The men receive neither wages nor food, but each
+village looks after the families of its absentees, and attends to
+their work until their return.&nbsp; The men certainly seemed to
+labour with a will.</p>
+<p>The Nile begins to rise about the end of June, reaching its
+greatest height about the end of September, continuing for about
+fifteen days at twenty-four feet above low-water level.&nbsp; If
+the rise be thirty feet great damage is done, and if it fail to
+reach eighteen feet famine ensues.</p>
+<p><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>We
+rode for some distance along the valley of the Nile, which varies
+from two to twelve miles in width.&nbsp; It is very fertile, the
+soil being more than forty feet deep.&nbsp; It is only needful to
+sow the seed immediately after the inundation, and in about four
+months the harvest is ready to be gathered.&nbsp; The plough in
+use is a very primitive article; but the looseness of the soil
+renders stronger ploughs unnecessary.&nbsp; In many places as we
+went along we saw the natives irrigating by means of the bucket
+and pole, with a counterbalance at the end (<i>shadouf</i>),
+raising water from the Nile and sending it along the channels
+over the fields.&nbsp; In one field we saw agriculture being
+carried on as Adam would have done before the Fall, had it been
+necessary, the men being quite naked, and digging the earth with
+their hands.</p>
+<p>Returning to the city we took a walk through old Cairo, along
+the narrow streets, passing many little workshops where various
+trades were being carried on, the owners appearing pleased at our
+noticing them at work.&nbsp; In one place some men were grinding
+beans with a huge pestle and mortar, and showed us some of the
+meal.&nbsp; In a secluded corner we saw about a dozen old fellows
+in every variety of costume sitting on the ground listening to a
+very animated story being told by one of the party.&nbsp; They
+appeared to be greatly interested, every now and then lifting up
+their hands in amazement.&nbsp; These professional story-tellers
+are a great institution in Cairo.</p>
+<p>Passing down one of the narrow streets our attention was
+arrested by the busy hum of children&rsquo;s&rsquo; voices, which
+we found proceeded from an upper room, <a
+name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>the
+casement of which was open.&nbsp; Our guide told us it was a
+school, and that the children were repeating passages from the
+Koran.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p189.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Schoolmaster &ldquo;Abroad&rdquo;"
+title=
+"The Schoolmaster &ldquo;Abroad&rdquo;"
+src="images/p189.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>One of our party, who had not forgotten the pranks of his
+boyhood, threw a number of new threepenny pieces into the midst
+of the boys, causing great excitement and confusion.&nbsp;
+Presently an old man, with a fringe of white hair <a
+name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>encircling
+his dark face, and wearing a huge pair of brass-framed
+spectacles, appeared at the open window brandishing his cane at
+us, but in a moment his whole attitude changed, and holding out
+his hand he uttered the familiar cry
+of&mdash;<i>backsheesh</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p190.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A &ldquo;Peep&rdquo;"
+title=
+"A &ldquo;Peep&rdquo;"
+src="images/p190.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Our walk took us through one of the bazaars, which consist of
+very narrow lanes full of shops, with dealers in every variety of
+goods, most of which are made in the open.&nbsp; We were
+particularly struck with the beautiful embroideries of gold and
+silver thread, and the expeditious way in which the workmen
+executed the various designs.&nbsp; All were very anxious we
+should buy, and I overheard one old rascal offer our Coptic guide
+ten per cent. commission on our purchases.&nbsp; We, however,
+made none.&nbsp; In passing the carpet bazaar we saw an English
+party buying dingy carpets.</p>
+<p><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>The
+most interesting part of our day&rsquo;s experiences was spent in
+the manufacturing quarter.&nbsp; There are no large factories in
+Cairo, and I question if more than half a dozen people are
+employed at any one place.&nbsp; The work is carried on in the
+most primitive fashion in the little shops facing the street.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p191.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"&ldquo;Bery Cheap, Sah!&rdquo;"
+title=
+"&ldquo;Bery Cheap, Sah!&rdquo;"
+src="images/p191.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>There can be but few secrets in the various trades, as the
+workshops are all shallow, and open to the streets.&nbsp; All the
+jewellers are in one street about 8ft. in width, each of them
+being provided with a safe, obviously of English
+manufacture.&nbsp; I do not think, however, that the bellows used
+by them were made in Birmingham, for it was curious to note that
+they had no valves.&nbsp; At the end of the jewellers&rsquo;
+street sits an old fellow like Abraham or Isaac, weighing
+precious metals in a pair of evidently very accurate
+scales.&nbsp; This man acted <a name="page192"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 192</span>as general weigher for the trade,
+and his operations were carried on in the face of the
+public.&nbsp; Leaving the bazaars we met a crowd of natives
+gesticulating, shouting, and frolicking in a very excited
+manner.&nbsp; Standing aside to allow the throng to pass, we
+found it was a bridal procession conducting a bride to her
+husband&rsquo;s home.&nbsp; A few tattered minstrels walked in
+front, making a hideous noise on pipes and drums, while a gang of
+young men jumped and danced about, and indulged in the wildest
+horse-play.&nbsp; The women were ornamented with strips of gilt
+paper and coloured ribbons, and had their cheeks thickly coated
+with rouge.&nbsp; The bride walked under a canopy consisting of
+four poles covered with canvas and was quite enclosed.&nbsp;
+Sometimes this portable tent would collapse upon the fair one,
+whose struggles were prominently manifested by bulges in the
+canvas.&nbsp; The whole party seemed to be making the most of the
+occasion.</p>
+<p>We next visited the mosque of Sultan Hassan, which was built
+in the 14th century, at a cost of &pound;600 per day for the
+three years it took to complete.&nbsp; It is the finest mosque in
+Cairo.&nbsp; While standing beside the Sultan&rsquo;s tomb within
+the mosque our guide related its history.&nbsp; He said that for
+three years the Sultan had been absent from Egypt on pilgrimages,
+and that during his absence his Grand Vizier declared himself
+Sultan.&nbsp; Hassan hearing of this returned to Cairo in the
+disguise of a poor pilgrim, and finding that he had still many
+adherents he consulted with some of the principal of them as to
+the best way of regaining his rights.&nbsp; He first obtained
+permission to build this mosque, and <a name="page193"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 193</span>when it was finished his partisans
+assembled in the building in large numbers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page194"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 194</span>
+<a href="images/p193.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Mosque of Sultan Hassan"
+title=
+"The Mosque of Sultan Hassan"
+src="images/p193.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+195</span>Hassan, still in the pilgrim&rsquo;s habit, rose to
+preach to the people&mdash;this was the preconcerted signal for a
+general massacre of the usurper and his supporters; and thus
+Hassan recovered his throne.&nbsp; At the entrance to the mosque
+our boots were covered with sandals, so that our feet might not
+touch the holy floor; but custom does not demand the removal of
+the hat.&nbsp; In the court-yard is a fountain where the faithful
+perform their ablutions before prayer.&nbsp; In front of the
+niche looking towards Mecca were about a dozen persons at their
+devotions.&nbsp; Just in advance of them stood a mollah or
+priest, and as he bowed his head or kneeled they did the same,
+concluding with chanting or singing a prayer.&nbsp; Whilst we
+were looking around a little boy was following us, keeping a
+sharp look out lest our slippers should come off, and if they
+showed any signs of coming loose he at once brought up a man to
+fasten them.</p>
+<p>One of the sights of Cairo is the egg-hatching
+establishment.&nbsp; This institution is rendered necessary,
+because the hens are too idle to hatch their eggs in this
+country, consequently the operation has to be artificially
+performed.&nbsp; The people bring their eggs to the hatching
+place and receive one chicken for every two eggs.&nbsp; I
+observed the Egyptian eggs are very small, due also to the
+laziness of the hens, doubtless.</p>
+<p>We next visited the citadel and the mosque of Mohammed Ali, a
+magnificent pile, built early in this century.&nbsp; In the
+courtyard of this place the Mamelukes in 1811 were massacred by
+order of Mohammed Ali.&nbsp; <a name="page196"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 196</span>Fearing their power he invited them
+to the mosque, and closing the gates slaughtered them all, save
+one who escaped by leaping with his horse from the parapet.&nbsp;
+The horse was killed, but the rider was uninjured.&nbsp; About
+450 persons were here massacred, and 800 in other parts of the
+city.&nbsp; The citadel commands a magnificent view of the city
+and surrounding country, and every evening large parties of
+tourists assemble there to see the sunset.</p>
+<p>The excursion to the Pyramids of Gizeh is now much more easily
+made since Isma&iuml;l completed the carriage road by way of
+compliment to our Royal Princes on their visit.&nbsp; Our party
+was conveyed in carriages, while donkeys had been previously sent
+forward for the use of the ladies.&nbsp; While on the
+carriage-road the view of the Pyramids is altogether lost till
+within a mile of the end of the journey, acacias having been
+thickly planted on either side of the road.&nbsp; On leaving the
+carriages we were at once surrounded by beggars, who continued to
+infest us all the time we were in the neighbourhood.&nbsp; Some
+were loud, almost menacing in their demands, others soft and
+insinuating.&nbsp; One kind, which I call the &ldquo;quiet
+devil&rdquo; or &ldquo;familiar,&rdquo; creeps by your side, and
+whispers in your ear confidentially that he is &ldquo;a good
+man&rdquo;; that the others are &ldquo;bad men&rdquo;; that he
+will not bother you for anything; that you are &ldquo;a good
+man&rdquo;; that he will &ldquo;help you, and keep off the
+others.&rdquo;&nbsp; But alas! he too is sure to whisper in
+conclusion <i>backsheesh</i>.&nbsp; If the road is a little rough
+these &ldquo;good men&rdquo; seem to fancy you cannot get on
+without help, so one on each side puts a hand under your arm and
+half carries you along.&nbsp; It is quite useless to <a
+name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 197</span>protest;
+they look at you as though they would say, &ldquo;poor man! he
+thinks he can walk by himself; but we know better; he would fall
+at once did we not hold him up.&rdquo;&nbsp; And then, when we
+reach level ground again, there is a universal chorus
+of&mdash;<i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>, <i>backsheesh</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p196.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Ascending the Great Pyramid"
+title=
+"Ascending the Great Pyramid"
+src="images/p196.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>On arriving at the little house at the foot of the Pyramids
+our guide Abaid summoned the Sheik of the village, who proceeded
+to detail two men for each person who intended to make the
+ascent&mdash;ladies and fat men being allotted four men each to
+help them up.&nbsp; The weather being extremely hot my sister and
+I were content to see the rest of the party make the ascent while
+we sat in a shady place at the base.&nbsp; A group of twenty
+Arabs of the most patriarchal aspect squatted on the ground in
+front of us in a half-circle; immediately our eyes fell upon any
+one of them he mutely extended one hand&mdash;not so much to help
+us as to be helped&mdash;instantly lowering it without complaint
+on our looking elsewhere.&nbsp; This would become
+monotonous.&nbsp; I would occasionally show by my look that I was
+annoyed, upon which the beggar would get a crack over his head
+from one of his neighbours.</p>
+<p>The Great Pyramid of Cheops is 732ft. along the base line and
+460ft. high, covering an area of 536,000 square feet&mdash;about
+equal in extent to Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields in London.&nbsp;
+Its height is about 60ft. higher than the cross on St.
+Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral.&nbsp; My wife managed the ascent very
+well, and also went with the rest to explore the interior, and
+all seemed greatly pleased with their exploits.&nbsp; A fee of
+two francs to the Sheik and a franc a piece to the helpers is the
+regular charge for each <a name="page198"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 198</span>person; but even the Sheik is not
+above taking a little extra by way of <i>backsheesh</i>.&nbsp;
+Our party were quite ready for their lunch, which Abaid quickly
+spread out in the little house provided by the Government for the
+accommodation of visitors.&nbsp; We were shown into a large room,
+and while at table the doorways were filled with a hungry crowd,
+quarrelling, laughing, and jostling each other.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p198.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"View on the Nile"
+title=
+"View on the Nile"
+src="images/p198.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Some of the bolder spirits at length got into the room, but
+our guide seizing his stick administered two or three heavy
+blows, and soon cleared them out.&nbsp; It was wonderful to see
+how tamely big men will allow themselves to be driven.&nbsp;
+Truly the stick is a great institution in Egypt, although perhaps
+none but the ruling class would acquiesce in the inscription
+found in one of the ancient tombs to the effect that &ldquo;The
+stick came down from heaven&mdash;a blessing from God.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+199</span>Before sitting down to eat, a boy brought water that we
+might wash our hands.&nbsp; The mode was certainly
+primitive.&nbsp; We had to hold our hands out of the window while
+he poured water over them.&nbsp; A noisy crowd of Arabs were
+sitting under another window, and a barber in the midst was
+operating upon the head of one of them, and it was really
+wonderful how cleverly he shaved, making a clean sweep of every
+lock and every hair.&nbsp; I asked Abaid if the men were under a
+vow, but he said it was because summer was coming on, and it
+would be cooler without hair.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p199.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Sphinx"
+title=
+"The Sphinx"
+src="images/p199.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After a scene of great confusion in paying the various
+claimants, during which the Sheik had to make a vigorous use of
+his long stick, we started to see the Sphinx, which is about 500
+yards off.&nbsp; Before leaving, <a name="page201"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 201</span>I called the Sheik and gave him two
+francs, that he might instruct his men to keep the mob from
+us.&nbsp; This he accepted with great solemnity, and in parting
+shook hands in a most impressive manner.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p200.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Wash and a Shave"
+title=
+"A Wash and a Shave"
+src="images/p200.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The Sphinx is cut out of the solid rock, and is about thirty
+feet from the top of the head to the bottom of the chin, and
+about fourteen feet across the face, the body being 140 feet
+long.&nbsp; I could see no beauty in the face, the features being
+almost obliterated.</p>
+<p>Near the Sphinx is a fine underground temple formed of immense
+granite blocks and polished alabaster.&nbsp; The pavement is of
+granite and is perfectly smooth.&nbsp; Some of the finest statues
+at B&ucirc;lak were found in a well adjoining this temple.</p>
+<p>Leaving our hotel at seven a.m., we started for Gizeh station
+<i>en route</i> for Sakkara, the railway taking us as far as
+Bedrash&ecirc;n.&nbsp; We had engaged eleven donkeys for carrying
+our party and the food necessary for the whole day&rsquo;s
+refreshment.&nbsp; The confusion at Gizeh station in obtaining
+our tickets and getting the donkeys into the train was something
+tremendous.&nbsp; Fortunately, the morning was rather cool.</p>
+<p>On arriving at Bedrash&ecirc;n we had some difficulty in
+finding the right donkeys, and I had great misgivings about the
+prospective five hours&rsquo; ride; but at last we got fairly
+off, and by degrees my confidence returned.&nbsp; We soon reached
+M&icirc;trah&icirc;neh, the site of ancient Memphis, now only
+marked by a vast number of heaps and mounds of rubbish, under
+which are doubtless buried many treasures of ancient Egyptian
+art.&nbsp; A number of articles which have been recently dug out
+were shown <a name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+202</span>in a rude enclosure; one or two of the statues
+beautifully executed.&nbsp; Lying in a pool, face downwards, is a
+statue of Ramses II. belonging to the British Museum, but the
+authorities of that institution have not yet taken the trouble to
+remove it.&nbsp; The statue is 50ft. long, and is of siliceous
+limestone, very hard, and bearing a high polish.&nbsp; In one
+hand the figure holds a scroll bearing his name, and at his side
+is his little daughter, reaching to his knee.&nbsp; The face is
+still quite smooth, the features are sharply cut and delicately
+finished, and the expression perfectly preserved, looking really
+beautiful.&nbsp; Memphis was said by Herodotus to extend for six
+miles.&nbsp; It was conquered in turns by Persians, Assyrians,
+and Romans, each of whom did their share towards ruining it, and
+when at last the Mohammedans conquered the country, its doom was
+sealed, and the stones of its palace and temples taken away to
+build the new city of Cairo.&nbsp; The dykes being no longer kept
+in repair, the overflow of the Nile gradually piled up the mud
+year by year, and this, with the sand from the desert, has, in
+the course of ages, made Memphis little more than a name.&nbsp;
+Memphis is called in the Bible <i>Noph</i>, and in the time of
+the Patriarchs was the capital of Lower Egypt; but the prophecy
+of Jeremiah, xlvi. 19, has been literally fulfilled: &ldquo;Noph
+shall be waste and desolate.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Leaving Memphis we go on to Sakkara, for thousands of years
+the ancient Necropolis or burying-ground.&nbsp; In the centre
+stands the great Step Pyramid, built in steps of comparatively
+small pieces of stone.&nbsp; It is said to be not only the oldest
+pyramid, but also the most ancient monument of any kind in the
+world.&nbsp; The cemetery <a name="page203"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 203</span>is four and a half miles long by an
+average of three-fourths of a mile in width, and being full of
+holes it is necessary to be very careful in crossing it.&nbsp;
+The ground is strewed with skulls and other human bones, some of
+the former being of great thickness.&nbsp; Soon we reached the
+house of Mariette Bey, built for his use when he was engaged in
+his explorations, and here, by his permission, parties are at
+liberty to rest and take their lunch.</p>
+<p>The first object of interest is the Serapeum, or Apis
+Mausoleum.&nbsp; When alive, the sacred bull was worshipped in a
+splendid temple at Memphis, and lodged in an adjoining
+palace.&nbsp; When dead he was buried in this mausoleum, in a
+vault excavated out of the solid rock, his body being placed in a
+huge sarcophagus hewn out of a single piece of granite, and
+hollowed into a regular square to receive the body.&nbsp; A
+cover, also of granite, and weighing many tons, was then placed
+over it.&nbsp; The size of the sarcophagus is 13ft. long, 7ft.
+6in. wide, and 11ft. high.</p>
+<p>This mausoleum had for ages been known to exist somewhere, but
+no one knew the locality.&nbsp; The ancient Strabo wrote,
+&ldquo;There is also a serapeum in a very sandy spot where drifts
+of sand are raised by the wind to such a degree that we saw some
+sphinxes buried up to their heads, and others half
+covered.&rdquo;&nbsp; Mariette, recollecting this passage,
+observed in 1860 a sphinx&rsquo;s head appearing through the
+sand, and it at once occurred to him that this must be the site
+of the avenue of which mention is made by another ancient writer,
+so he commenced a clearing and laid bare 141 sphinxes.&nbsp; To
+do this he had to make a cutting in the <a
+name="page204"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 204</span>sand 70ft.
+deep; but at length he was rewarded by discovering the entrance
+to the mausoleum.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p204.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Serapeum, Sakkara"
+title=
+"The Serapeum, Sakkara"
+src="images/p204.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>There are several galleries for the different dynasties, but
+only one is now shown, the interments in which date from 650
+<span class="GutSmall">B.C.</span> down to 50 <span
+class="GutSmall">B.C.</span>&nbsp; The galleries extend for 400
+yards, and there are now twenty-four sarcophagi in their
+places.&nbsp; Three of these are beautifully sculptured.&nbsp;
+One of them is of polished granite, and although the engraving is
+only 1/16 in. deep, a mere scratch in the polish, it is as clear
+as when first done, over 2,000 years ago, and so perfect is the
+stone that it rings like a bell when struck.</p>
+<p>From the Serapeum we proceeded to examine one of the tombs,
+also excavated by Mariette Bey.&nbsp; It is called <a
+name="page205"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 205</span>the Tomb of
+Tih.&nbsp; Over the doorways of these ancient tombs it was the
+custom to inscribe the name and titles of the deceased, and also
+an invocation to the God of Tombs (the tomb having been built
+during life by the person himself), with these
+objects:&mdash;</p>
+<p>1st.&mdash;To accord to deceased propitious funeral-rites, and
+a good burial-place after a long and happy life.</p>
+<p>2nd.&mdash;To be favourably disposed to deceased in his
+journey beyond the tomb.</p>
+<p>3rd.&mdash;To secure to him, to all eternity, the proper
+payment of funeral-offerings by his relations.</p>
+<p>A list of these offerings is carved upon the walls, which are
+covered with sculptures representing the scenes in which the
+deceased had been engaged during life, ending with a
+representation of the conveyance of the mummy to the tomb.&nbsp;
+The tomb itself contains several apartments, in which the
+relatives met upon certain anniversaries to present
+votive-offerings, etc.</p>
+<p>We were astonished to see the perfect state of preservation in
+which the tomb remains.&nbsp; The sculptures on the walls are as
+sharp and clear and the colours apparently as bright as when laid
+on.&nbsp; Sand is a good preservative when not in motion, and to
+this must the marvel be ascribed.&nbsp; Over the door is the
+inscription giving Tih&rsquo;s name, and stating that he was a
+priest; and on the walls of the first chamber are representations
+showing statues of Tih being embarked in boats and oxen being
+brought for sacrifice, one of them being offered up.&nbsp; There
+is another showing Tih with his wife and family watching his
+people at work in the farmyard.&nbsp; Some of them are <a
+name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 206</span>bringing
+sacks of grain for the poultry; others are fattening the birds by
+making and forcing pellets of flour down their throats.&nbsp;
+Behind this there is a view of the farm-buildings, the roofs
+being supported on carved wooden pillars.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p206.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"From the Tomb of Tih"
+title=
+"From the Tomb of Tih"
+src="images/p206.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>In the middle there is a pool where ducks are swimming, while
+cattle are seen pasturing in the fields around.&nbsp; Among the
+birds Tih kept are cranes and pigeons, ducks and geese.&nbsp; He
+had also cattle of every size and kind, including antelopes,
+gazelles, and wild goats.&nbsp; Then come the boats filled with
+jars and bales transporting farm produce down the Nile.&nbsp; In
+another place men are shown carrying fruits and vegetables, and
+pigeons in cages.&nbsp; Farther on are seen men drawing statues
+enclosed in temples of wood, half-a-dozen dragging with ropes,
+while one pours water on the road to make it easier.&nbsp; In
+another room Till is shown as a sportsman in a boat; in one hand
+he holds a decoy-bird, while with the other he hurls a curved
+stick like an Australian boomerang.&nbsp; In the water are seen
+crocodiles and hippopotami: a crocodile and hippopotamus are
+fighting, the latter being evidently victorious; some of the
+servants are trying <a name="page207"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 207</span>to catch them, and the hippopotamus
+is just being hooked with a sort of harpoon.&nbsp; (This scene
+recalls the verse in Job, &ldquo;Canst thou draw out the
+leviathan with a hook?&rdquo;)&nbsp; Here again the fish are
+being drawn in nets into the boats, while the work of the farm
+goes vigorously on.&nbsp; Cows are seen crossing a ford and
+browsing in a field, while herdsmen are driving a flock of
+goats.&nbsp; Oxen are ploughing just as we saw them in the fields
+to-day, and with a very similar plough.&nbsp; The seed is being
+sown, corn reaped, and men with three-pronged forks are gathering
+it into heaps while the oxen are treading it out.&nbsp; In
+another place the corn is being tied into sheaves, and donkeys
+are being brought up with much fuss and use of the stick to take
+it to the granaries.&nbsp; Some of these scenes are drawn with
+inimitable humour.&nbsp; Carpenters are engaged in making
+furniture, and shipwrights in building boats, while Tih is always
+present directing each operation.</p>
+<p>The Egyptians were said by Diodorus to call their houses
+hostelries, and their tombs their everlasting homes.</p>
+<p>We now remounted our donkeys, and for an hour rode over the
+sandy desert through dreadful mud villages, from which all the
+population turned out as we passed, crying with all their
+might&mdash;<i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>, <i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>,
+<i>backsheesh</i>, <i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>,
+<i>&rsquo;sheesh</i>.</p>
+<p>Passing several strings of camels&mdash;which I described as
+&ldquo;camelcades,&rdquo; coining a word for the purpose&mdash;we
+soon regained the delightfully fertile country which is watered
+by the Nile.&nbsp; For more than two hours we trotted and
+galloped along through a very rich country, where hundreds of
+acres of date-palms <a name="page208"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 208</span>were growing&mdash;where the young
+corn was waving, and peas, beans, and cucumbers in great
+luxuriance&mdash;no more dust nor sand, but a pleasant breeze and
+bright sun, with nothing to mar the pleasure except the sight of
+the wretched natives.&nbsp; Most of the children are absolutely
+naked, while their parents&rsquo; clothes are of the most limited
+description.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p208.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Camelcade (sketched by the Author)"
+title=
+"A Camelcade (sketched by the Author)"
+src="images/p208.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We halted for lunch under some palm-trees by a branch of the
+Nile, and then proceeded to the carriages, which we had ordered
+to meet us in the Gizeh road.&nbsp; Some of us had to ride back
+into Cairo on our donkeys, and on our way we passed the Khedive,
+who cordially acknowledged our salutation.&nbsp; All our party
+agreed in saying that to-day&rsquo;s excursion was one of the
+most delightful we had ever had.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page209"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 209</span>
+<a href="images/p209.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Prayers in the Desert"
+title=
+"Prayers in the Desert"
+src="images/p209.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+<p>Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the
+Dancing and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal
+<i>zikr</i> or ceremonial on that day.&nbsp; We first visited the
+convent of the dancing Dervishes and witnessed one of their
+performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it was. In the
+centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is railed
+off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall
+&ldquo;tile&rdquo; without brims are sitting opposite the
+door.&nbsp; They looked like a lot of ancient
+&ldquo;Friends&rdquo; at the head of a meeting.&nbsp; In the
+gallery above were some musicians, one of whom was playing a
+flute in a melancholy manner, and another reciting a
+prayer.&nbsp; At a certain point the Dervishes within the circle
+bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin walking
+round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the
+Chief Priest or Sheik.&nbsp; On passing the carpet upon which the
+Sheik has been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated
+two or three times; then they go into the middle of the
+enclosure, <a name="page210"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+210</span>spreading out their garments like ladies in the old
+minuet; the music quickens, and they begin to whirl around on one
+foot, occasionally touching the ground with the other.&nbsp; The
+performers&rsquo; eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but they
+keep on in perfect order&mdash;never touching one
+another&mdash;while the old Priest walks about among them.&nbsp;
+Some of the more experienced Dervishes can revolve fifty or sixty
+times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half an hour.&nbsp; It
+was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no
+<i>backsheesh</i> was demanded, the Priests being supported by
+endowments and occasional gifts from the Khedive.&nbsp; Mounting
+our donkeys we rode off to the Howling Dervishes, where we found
+them in full howl.&nbsp; About twenty of them were engaged in
+making the most hideous noise imaginable.&nbsp; These fellows had
+their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their heads
+in the wildest manner.&nbsp; Every time they raise their heads
+they utter the word <i>HU</i> (God alone), which sounds like the
+yell of a wild beast, at times the excitement rising to such a
+height that some of them would foam at the mouth and fall to the
+ground apparently in a fit.&nbsp; They wound up their proceedings
+with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt.&nbsp; These Dervishes,
+like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government
+endowment.</p>
+<p>I have no doubt that when first instituted these &ldquo;pious
+orgies&rdquo; were entered upon with a due sense of solemnity,
+and I believe in places remote from the regular tourist route the
+religious feeling still predominates, but the Howling and Dancing
+Dervishes in Cairo have long since become one of the regular
+sights to which foreign visitors are always taken.</p>
+<p><a name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>Upon
+the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present,
+more than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter
+being a placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her,
+was calmly surveying the &ldquo;creaturely activity&rdquo; of the
+Howling enthusiasts.</p>
+<p>We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley&rsquo;s Schools,
+at the British Mission.&nbsp; There are over 300 native children
+here, and we heard many of them read in English and French, and
+also do some exercises in translation.&nbsp; The girls were
+engaged in embroidering, reading, and writing, and they sang two
+hymns in Arabic while we stayed.&nbsp; Then we saw them muster
+for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into the
+middle of the hall and repeated the Lord&rsquo;s Prayer, first in
+English and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most
+orderly manner.&nbsp; Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the
+result of her many years&rsquo; labours; but I have no doubt she
+has had her times of discouragement.&nbsp; My wife visited an
+Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told her that
+after two years&rsquo; continuous labour amongst the people of
+his district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was
+greatly discouraged and was inclined to abandon the
+mission.&nbsp; Calling the people together he told them of his
+disappointment, and said that although he had worked diligently
+amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to be no better
+than before, and that he felt that he must leave them.&nbsp; The
+people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways,
+began to be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet
+again.&nbsp; One man got up in the meeting and said, <a
+name="page212"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+212</span>&ldquo;Teacher, you must not go, you have made us much
+better.&nbsp; When you came first there was a woman living near
+who used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but
+now,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;<i>she only steals the
+eggs</i>.&rdquo;&nbsp; The superintendent&rsquo;s features
+somewhat relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs
+immediately perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a
+woman rising and saying, &ldquo;Teacher, when you came first my
+neighbour&rsquo;s son used to thrash his mother every day, but
+since he has been at your school he only thrashes her once a
+month.&rdquo;&nbsp; The superintendent remained, and is well
+satisfied with the progress which has since been made.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue,
+which is the Rotten Row of Cairo.&nbsp; The custom is to drive
+quickly up one side, returning slowly on the other, the drive
+occupying an hour.&nbsp; The Khedive drove past us in his
+carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows (<i>sais</i>) whose
+duty it is to run in front of the carriage.&nbsp; They were
+dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a
+silk sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long
+tassel, legs and feet bare, and in the hand a handsome
+staff.&nbsp; These men run quite as fast as the horses, keep up
+the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed to clear the
+crowded streets for the carriages.&nbsp; This they do by shouting
+loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual.&nbsp;
+The avenue was crowded with carriages, some of them containing
+ladies of the harem.&nbsp; Their carriages have windows all
+round.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p213.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Runner, or Sais"
+title=
+"A Runner, or Sais"
+src="images/p213.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave
+only the eyes uncovered, while some (the prettiest, <a
+name="page214"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 214</span>presumably)
+wear only thin gauze veils, through which their faces are plainly
+to be seen.&nbsp; All wear the same languishing expression, and
+appear to be very fond of peeping at the Europeans, and as we
+passed and repassed them they would recognise us with a smile,
+and then, to save appearances, turn away.&nbsp; When we passed
+the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the
+Khedive&rsquo;s carriage, and drew up in saluting order.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p214.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"In Shubra Avenue"
+title=
+"In Shubra Avenue"
+src="images/p214.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>They were greatly disgusted on discovering their
+mistake.&nbsp; At four o&rsquo;clock a general stampede of
+carriages, horsemen, runners, and pedestrians takes place, and
+the road is soon quite deserted.</p>
+<p>One of the features of Cairene life is the universal use of
+donkeys by all classes of the people; ancient women shrouded from
+head to foot in black gauze, old men with long grey beards, and
+noses not much <a name="page215"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+215</span>shorter&mdash;their heads wrapped in turbans, and robes
+covering the donkeys&rsquo; backs&mdash;jogging along, rubbing
+against the British tourist, the latter looking anything but
+grave and serious on his Jerusalem pony.&nbsp; Our party
+certainly did not look more <i>bizarre</i> than others; but we
+should not feel inclined to enter Birmingham in the same state as
+we often entered and left Cairo.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p215.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Water Carriers"
+title=
+"Water Carriers"
+src="images/p215.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>One morning we got up early for a donkey-ride across the Nile
+to see, amongst other things, the garden and farm produce arrive
+from the country round.&nbsp; Crossing the Nile we turned down a
+fine avenue of sycamores, two or three miles long.&nbsp; The
+Khedive&rsquo;s gardens lie on one side and the river at the
+other.&nbsp; Moored to the river bank was an Englishman&rsquo;s
+<i>dahabieh</i> <a name="page216"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+216</span>or Nile boat.&nbsp; A party had just returned from the
+cataracts, and on the upper deck we observed a dead
+crocodile.&nbsp; Riding by one palace towards another, we passed
+a crowd of people on their way to market, with bullocks, goats,
+camels laden with clover, women with the round cakes so common
+here, and a great variety of other things.&nbsp; Presently we
+sighted the Pyramids, one side lit up with the morning sun, while
+another was in deep shadow.&nbsp; The Sphinx was also plainly to
+be seen.</p>
+<p>Leaving the Gizeh Road leading to the Pyramids we turned
+towards Cairo, our donkeys instantly knowing that we were
+homeward-bound, and needing no persuasion to gallop back to
+breakfast.&nbsp; On nearing the bridge we came upon hosts of
+camels, donkeys, and oxen laden with produce, and being assessed
+for the octroi or town-tax.&nbsp; The police were armed with long
+spikes, which they pushed into the load to ascertain if anything
+else was packed inside.&nbsp; It was an interesting
+scene&mdash;the busy crowd, the magnificent river, and the
+brilliant morning sunshine making up a picture not easily
+forgotten.</p>
+<p>One of the most interesting drives in the neighbourhood of
+Cairo is to Heliopolis&mdash;part of the way lying through a fine
+avenue of acacias&mdash;and passing the old camping ground used
+as a <i>rendezvous</i> by the Mecca pilgrims.&nbsp; It is the old
+caravan road, and stretches far away into the desert, from which
+came to us a delightfully fresh breeze.&nbsp; We also passed the
+Abbaseyeh Palace, built by Abbas Pasha, who, fearing
+assassination, lived here in seclusion, keeping sentinels on the
+towers to give warning of the approach of a mob, and <a
+name="page218"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 218</span>dromedaries
+and fleet horses always ready saddled for escape into the
+desert.&nbsp; He was, however, murdered at last in spite of all
+his precautions.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p217.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Tombs of the Khalifs"
+title=
+"The Tombs of the Khalifs"
+src="images/p217.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Along the road are some beautiful plantations of palms,
+oranges, and lemons, castor-oil and other plants growing in the
+greatest luxuriance.&nbsp; Heaps of oranges were lying on the
+ground.&nbsp; After driving through a fine olive plantation we
+came out upon an extensive plain, where, in 1517, Sultan Selim
+defeated the last of the Mameluke Dynasty, and made Egypt a
+Turkish province.&nbsp; Here too, in 1800, the French defeated
+the Turks and regained possession of Cairo.&nbsp; Our guide
+called a halt in order to show us a fine old sycamore, called the
+virgin&rsquo;s tree, under which Joseph and Mary are said to have
+rested during their flight into Egypt.&nbsp; I asked Abaid if he
+believed the story.&nbsp; Placing his hand upon his heart and
+bowing his head, he replied, with something of the
+sententiousness of a Dr. Johnson, &ldquo;Sir, I am a
+Christian!&rdquo;&nbsp; I felt inclined to tell him that I also
+was a Christian, but that I did not believe it; but then why
+should I disturb his honest belief?&nbsp; Soon the obelisk of
+Heliopolis came in view, and we knew we were near it by the crowd
+of youngsters swarming round the carriage.&nbsp; But I adopted my
+old plan of being the first to ask for <i>backsheesh</i>, causing
+them to laugh so heartily that they could hardly take up the
+cry.</p>
+<p>The obelisk is about 6ft. square at the base and about 68ft.
+high; it is the oldest in Egypt, and was erected by the founder
+of the twelfth dynasty.&nbsp; The inscriptions on its four sides
+give its history and the account of its erection about 3,000
+<span class="GutSmall">B.C.</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page219"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 219</span>
+<a href="images/p219.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Street in B&ucirc;lak"
+title=
+"A Street in B&ucirc;lak"
+src="images/p219.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page220"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+220</span>Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in
+Exodus is called ON.&nbsp; It was here that Joseph married
+Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah, and where Moses became
+learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians.&nbsp; Here Plato and
+Herodotus studied, and Josephus says&mdash;&ldquo;The city was
+given to the Children of Israel as their residence when they came
+down into Egypt.&rdquo;&nbsp; The obelisk, as we see it, was old
+when Abraham came into the country; but, notwithstanding its
+venerable age and intensely interesting associations, it has not
+been too sacred for tourists who have been caught chipping pieces
+off the edges.</p>
+<p>After lunch we drove to B&ucirc;lak, an interesting suburb of
+Cairo.&nbsp; The houses are very old, and the street-scenes very
+curious and thoroughly Eastern in character.&nbsp; The large
+overhanging windows and casements familiar in pictures are
+everywhere to be seen, and now and then a glimpse of a female
+face is caught peeping furtively out at the passers-by.&nbsp; The
+streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and shouts at the
+foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip to
+quicken their movements.&nbsp; All this is taken
+patiently&mdash;far too much so&mdash;and betrays the saddest
+side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes for the way in which
+the people have been treated.</p>
+<p>Hard by was a curious sight.&nbsp; Standing against a wall,
+and raised above the level of the street like another Simon
+Stylites, was a strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted
+of a sack, through a hole in which one arm was thrust.&nbsp; In
+his hand he held a small instrument like a garden-rake, with
+which he tortured his back, while his gaze &ldquo;seemed upon the
+<a name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 222</span>future
+bent.&rdquo;&nbsp; Some irreverent tourists looking on were
+presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon
+which the holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and
+then resumed his gaze into futurity.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p221.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Holy Fakir"
+title=
+"A Holy Fakir"
+src="images/p221.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap
+theatres, peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in
+England.&nbsp; In another place was a story-teller, surrounded by
+an appreciative audience, who treated every &ldquo;point&rdquo;
+with loud laughter.&nbsp; It was curious to see how earnest and
+interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which the
+story was told.</p>
+<p>The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by
+Mariette Bey, is situated in B&ucirc;lak.&nbsp; Our time being
+short, we proposed paying it another visit, which, however, we
+were unfortunately unable to do.&nbsp; Much of the sculpture is
+really marvellous in its life-like character.&nbsp; One of the
+most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years
+old.&nbsp; It is admirably carved.&nbsp; There is also a large
+collection of jewellery, beads, enamels, etc.; chess and
+draughtboards, an artist&rsquo;s paint-box and brushes, bread,
+eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe of gilt
+bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve
+silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities.&nbsp; The museum is
+one of the most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay
+many visits.</p>
+<p>In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and
+returned to B&ucirc;lak to see some of the shows, but the first
+they visited was of so extraordinary a character they decided to
+see no more until their taste was educated up or down to the
+present Egyptian standard.</p>
+<p><a name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 223</span>The
+railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6&frac12;
+hours.&nbsp; The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country
+being very flat all the way.</p>
+<p>The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very
+interesting to watch the various agricultural operations as we
+rode along.&nbsp; We particularly noticed the many modes in which
+water is supplied to the land.&nbsp; Alongside the railway runs a
+stream issuing from the Nile, and the different holdings of land
+are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p223.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Wrecked Ship of the Desert"
+title=
+"A Wrecked Ship of the Desert"
+src="images/p223.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>At the junction of these streamlets with the main stream may
+frequently be seen a couple of men standing on either bank
+lifting water from the river to the streamlets by means of a huge
+flat bowl, holding probably eight to ten gallons.&nbsp; This
+vessel is lifted on either side by means of two long handles
+diverging from each other, and it is surprising how large a
+quantity of water can be thrown up by means of it <a
+name="page224"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 224</span>in an
+hour.&nbsp; The bowl is always in motion with a fine swing, and
+it is evident the men are working on their own account.</p>
+<p>Every station at which we stopped is crowded with people
+selling oranges, water, etc., and very clever they are at their
+business too, very persuasive, and as quick as thought to see if
+you are inclined to buy.&nbsp; The children are the merriest,
+liveliest things imaginable, with bright eyes and shining white
+teeth.&nbsp; Here also may be seen numbers of beggars, young and
+old, calling out eternal <i>backsheesh</i>.&nbsp; We saw some
+venerable old fellows, bent nearly double with age, and with hair
+and whiskers quite white, who entreated us piteously to help
+them, saying &ldquo;Got no mother, got no father,
+<i>backsheesh</i>!&rdquo;&nbsp; Such orphans as these never
+obtained our sympathy, although they afforded us great
+amusement.</p>
+<p>While in Cairo, news came of the dissolution of Parliament by
+Lord Beaconsfield, and we hastened to Alexandria to take the
+steamer for Italy on the following day; but on arriving we found
+the weather so excessively rough that the steamers were detained:
+and, as there seemed no prospect of getting off, we determined to
+proceed to Port Sa&iuml;d, by way of Ismail&iuml;a, in order to
+take the steamer sailing thence for Naples, hoping on some future
+occasion to be able to see what is to be seen in
+Alexandria.&nbsp; A day&rsquo;s railway-ride brought us to
+Ismail&iuml;a, from which place we took the evening mail-boat to
+Port Sa&iuml;d.&nbsp; The night was very cold, and after a seven
+hours&rsquo; trip on the Canal it was very pleasant to find
+ourselves in the magnificent hotel built by Prince Henry of the
+Netherlands, attached to the Dutch factory at Port Sa&iuml;d.</p>
+<p><a name="page225"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 225</span>One
+of the Orient Steamers was due to sail on the following day, and
+we expected to proceed to Naples in her, but after providing us
+with tickets the agent sent us word that she had been detained a
+week and that we must choose another vessel.&nbsp; There was no
+other way of escape than by taking the P. and O. Steamer
+&ldquo;Mongolia&rdquo; to Malta, trusting to being able to find a
+ready means of crossing to Naples from that place.&nbsp;
+Unfortunately a heavy storm in the Mediterranean had the effect
+of delaying our arrival in Malta some hours, and we had the
+mortification of seeing the Naples steamer leaving the harbour as
+we were entering it.&nbsp; We arrived on Monday and found there
+would not be another steamer until Thursday, and as the
+Birmingham election was to take place on Wednesday in the
+following week our chance of getting there seemed very
+doubtful.&nbsp; Leaving Malta, however, on the Thursday, by dint
+of almost continual travelling night and day, we arrived safely
+in Birmingham at half-past ten on the Wednesday morning, and
+proceeded at once to register our votes for Bright and
+Chamberlain, two of the three successful Liberal candidates.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p225.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Au Revoir"
+title=
+"Au Revoir"
+src="images/p225.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page226"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+226</span>CHAPTER XII. <a name="citation226"></a><a
+href="#footnote226" class="citation">[226]</a></h2>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p226.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"In the Suez Canal"
+title=
+"In the Suez Canal"
+src="images/p226.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After a stormy passage through the Mediterranean we turned in
+towards Port Sa&iuml;d, and soon after sighting the handsome
+lighthouse took the French pilot on board, anchoring broadside on
+to the main street of the town and within fifty yards of the
+shore.&nbsp; A motley throng, in boats quite as motley soon
+filled up the space between the ship and the shore, and a wild
+jabber composed of a mixture of English, French, Italian, and
+Arabic filled the air.&nbsp; Presently the usual tribe of pedlars
+came on deck, and having spread out their wares invited the
+passengers to buy, somewhat after the fashion of London tradesmen
+in Cheapside hundreds of years ago with their cry of &ldquo;What
+lack ye?&rdquo;&nbsp; The inevitable Maltese with his lace, the
+Greek money-changer walking about with his hands full of silver
+offering to change, and astonishing the honest Britisher <a
+name="page227"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 227</span>on his
+first voyage by his liberality in proffering twenty shillings for
+a sovereign&mdash;the rate of exchange, however, leaving him a
+very good profit.&nbsp; Near him is a Hebrew, whom I remember
+having seen at Aden, the black curls over his brow reminding one
+forcibly of Benjamin Disraeli.&nbsp; This man keeps to his trade
+of dealer in ostrich feathers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p227.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Feather Merchant"
+title=
+"A Feather Merchant"
+src="images/p227.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Here also are gentlemen of the long robe&mdash;not lawyers,
+but Arabs, in ample white night-shirts and turbans&mdash;offering
+to young ladies in the most seductive tones, at two shillings
+each, coral necklaces, which can be purchased in Birmingham at
+three shillings the dozen, while dealers in photographs, melons,
+and oranges walk about always ready to take one-fourth of what
+they ask for their wares.&nbsp; Parallel with us are the quays,
+on which are crowds of people of all nationalities.&nbsp; The
+Custom House in front is occupied by a company of English
+artillerymen, the entrance being guarded by a British sentry,
+while overhead the Egyptian flag is flying.&nbsp; Away to the
+left is the old Dutch hotel, <a name="page228"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 228</span>recently bought by the British
+Government, and now occupied by two hundred men of the Royal
+Marine Light Infantry.</p>
+<p>Immediately in front of the ship is the main street of the
+town.&nbsp; It is perfectly straight and about half a mile long,
+with a small public garden near the end.&nbsp; In this street are
+a large number of <i>casinos</i>, where music is dealt out at
+nights by bands of female performers, who are called
+&ldquo;Bohemiennes,&rdquo; and where, we are assured, everything
+is properly respectable&mdash;until eleven o&rsquo;clock!&nbsp;
+Many of our lady passengers, in the innocence of their hearts,
+looking forward to a pleasant concert during the evening, are
+much shocked when they learn that the said concerts are held in
+<i>casinos</i>.</p>
+<p>We landed at ten o&rsquo;clock, and had a leisurely walk
+through the town and halfway through the Arab quarter, but the
+smells were so offensive that we turned back.&nbsp; A lot of
+young Arabs, however, urged us to go on farther, for there was an
+Arab hanging, but as we did not think a dead Arab would be likely
+to be a more agreeable sight than a living one we declined.&nbsp;
+The culprit had been executed that morning for the murder of his
+grand-daughter, nine months previously.&nbsp; An account of his
+crime was written in Arabic and attached to his breast, and the
+large scissors with which he committed the murder were suspended
+around his neck.&nbsp; Some of the young Arabs were vexed with us
+because we would not give them <i>backsheesh</i>, and began to be
+insulting, talking about Arabi, when presently a smart youth of
+ten years old interfered, and, cuffing the ears of the young
+monkeys, loudly proclaimed the prowess of the British.</p>
+<p><a name="page229"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 229</span>We
+went to look at the Dutch House where the Marines were quartered,
+and a young officer, Lieutenant Cotter, kindly asked us to go
+over the building.&nbsp; The rooms are very fine; but what a
+change in the scene since we slept here for a night two-and-half
+years ago!&nbsp; Then the hotel was in operation, and the rooms
+were furnished as elaborately as in the house of an English
+gentleman.&nbsp; But everything had been taken away, and the
+officers were sleeping on the marble floors, and the men on the
+floors of the adjoining warehouses, where also the horses were
+stabled.&nbsp; Lieutenant Cotter had made a bedstead for himself,
+and one of his men had made him a bath, and these, with a chair,
+completed the furnishing of his room; his wash-basin consisted of
+a large flower-pot, with a cork in the hole at the bottom.&nbsp;
+The Marines arrived in Egypt a few days after Tel-el-Kebir, and
+so saw no fighting; but they had to march over to Fort Gemileh,
+seven miles away, and fully expected a very severe fight, as the
+fort is heavily armed with modern guns, and was manned by
+Nubians, who are reported to be excellent soldiers.&nbsp;
+Fortunately, however, there was no need to fight, as the
+commander recognised that the war was over.</p>
+<p>At night a number of our passengers, of all classes, went
+ashore to attend the concert, and one of them known as Cetewayo,
+<i>alias</i> the Carrib or the Pirate King, announced his
+intention of kicking up a great row at the <i>casino</i> (of
+course <i>after</i> eleven o&rsquo;clock), and he was as good as
+his word, and others besides, several having to be locked up for
+the night.&nbsp; We visited the soldiers in the barracks, and <a
+name="page230"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 230</span>they were
+very glad to have a chat.&nbsp; We sent them the newspapers we
+had brought from England; with which they were greatly
+pleased.&nbsp; They told us the numbers, variety, and voracity of
+the insects was something maddening; some being busy at night,
+and others during the day, and that it was almost impossible to
+keep oneself decent.&nbsp; Altogether Port Sa&iuml;d must be a
+dreadful place for Englishmen to live in; there was very little
+society, and I was told that at the time there was only one
+unmarried lady left.</p>
+<p>The commanding officer of the Marines told us that the
+principal duty they had to perform as &ldquo;police&rdquo; was to
+keep the English sailors and visitors in order, almost all the
+drunkenness and trouble coming from them&mdash;to our disgrace be
+it said.</p>
+<p>The land all along the coast lies very low, and is not seen
+until the yellowish-green water near it is reached.&nbsp; The
+water is discoloured by the mud of the Nile, one of the mouths of
+which (the Tanitic) is situated a little to the west of Port
+Sa&iuml;d.&nbsp; This ceaseless flow of mud was one of the
+greatest difficulties experienced in making the Canal, and
+necessitated important and expensive works to prevent its access
+to the harbour.&nbsp; Lake Menzaleh is formed by this Nile mouth,
+and covers an area of about 1,000 square miles.&nbsp; Good
+wildfowl shooting is to be had there, and there are numbers of
+flamingos and other birds.&nbsp; Port Sa&iuml;d, as is well
+known, owes its origin to the Canal, and is situated on an island
+separating Lake Menzaleh from the Mediterranean.&nbsp; The town
+was expected by M. de Lesseps to progress very
+rapidly&mdash;indeed to rival Alexandria, but it has not gone
+ahead so fast as he <a name="page231"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 231</span>expected.&nbsp; At present there are
+about 12,000 people there, and I should say more than half are
+Europeans.&nbsp; The town is built very regularly, and consists
+of rather temporary brick and wooden houses.&nbsp; The making of
+the harbour was a very difficult work.&nbsp; It occupies 570
+acres, and is excavated to a depth of 26ft.&nbsp; Two massive
+piers protect it, running out to the sea in a north-easterly
+direction for about a mile and a half.&nbsp; At starting they are
+1,440 yards apart, narrowing to 770 yards, the navigable entrance
+being about 150 yards wide.&nbsp; The piers are constructed of
+artificial stone, composed of seven parts of sand from the
+desert, and of one part of hydraulic lime from France.&nbsp; The
+concrete was mixed by machinery, and then poured into great
+wooden moulds, where it remained for weeks, after which the wood
+was taken away to allow of the blocks hardening.&nbsp; Each block
+weighed twenty tons, and contained 13&frac12; cubic yards; no
+fewer than 25,000 of these blocks were used in constructing the
+breakwater.&nbsp; The lighthouse is a very handsome structure,
+and is also formed of blocks of concrete; it is 164ft. high, and
+can be seen twenty-four miles away, being fitted with the
+electric light.&nbsp; (<i>Baedeker</i>).</p>
+<p>At 4.30 p.m. our vessel started for the Canal, and having
+safely entered it made fast for the night, as no travelling is
+allowed after sunset.&nbsp; During the evening myriads of gnats
+and mosquitoes came on to the ship, the electric light being
+absolutely dimmed by them in many places, and we had good reason
+to expect a trying night from their presence.</p>
+<p>While our ship&rsquo;s doctor and a party of friends were
+ashore at Port Sa&iuml;d they were greatly amused by the <a
+name="page232"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 232</span>attention
+of a number of Arab lads who followed them everywhere.&nbsp;
+During their walk in the native quarter the party came upon a
+great crowd, and one of the young Arabs referring to the man who
+had been hanged during the morning stated that the man was not an
+Arab, but a Greek, and proceeded to explain the distinguishing
+characteristics of the various nationalities represented at this
+cosmopolitan port; he said&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The Greek, he bery bat man, he stab&mdash;so (with a
+vigorous motion as though stabbing an opponent in the chest).</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&rsquo;gyptian, he bery goot man, he only slap, so.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;English man, he bery goot man (striking an attitude);
+he say &lsquo;Come on and box.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;English man&mdash;he bery goot man.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;English man&mdash;he bery goot man.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Melikan man&mdash;he bery goot man.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Melikan man&mdash;he bery goot man.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;&rsquo;talian man&mdash;he bery bat man.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Ending with a very uncomplimentary allusion to our Irish
+fellow-subjects.</p>
+<p>What is wanted to make Port Sa&iuml;d really prosperous is a
+railway from the interior to bring the produce from the cotton
+and wheat fields, and then the steamers which bring the coals
+could at once load up for home, saving the necessity of going
+empty to Alexandria for their homeward freights.&nbsp; Last year
+540,000 tons of coal were sold at Port Sa&iuml;d, and all the
+ships which brought it had to go away empty.&nbsp; But so long as
+the Canal Company are entitled to all the Customs dues at Port
+Sa&iuml;d, it is not to be expected that the Egyptian Government
+will favour the construction of such a line.</p>
+<p><a name="page233"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 233</span>Some
+of our fellow-passengers were members of the Blue Ribbon Army,
+and although they were by no means obtrusive in supporting their
+views, being contented for the most part with wearing the
+&ldquo;bit of blue&rdquo;&mdash;others resented this reasonable
+liberty, styling it an impertinence, and formed themselves into
+an opposition Order, which they called the <i>Red</i> Ribbon
+Army, and they busied themselves in enlisting recruits.&nbsp; It
+was noticeable that, with the exception of an old
+<i>rou&eacute;</i> or two, only young men with small heads and
+long legs, who, if they ever indulged in reading, confined their
+choice to books translated or adapted from the French, composed
+the rank and file, the officers being older men, who were not
+often seen out of the gambling or smoke-room.&nbsp; One of these
+latter was called the &ldquo;Spider,&rdquo; because from an early
+hour in the morning he sat in the smoke-room waiting to
+&ldquo;play&rdquo; with any who might choose to try conclusions
+with him.</p>
+<p>The Patron and President of the Society was a noble lord, and
+certainly a better choice could not have been made.&nbsp; Amongst
+the rules of the Society were these:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>Any member found without his red ribbon is to be
+fined in drinks all round.</p>
+<p>Members are to be neither too drunk nor too sober.</p>
+<p>Members must never go to bed quite sober.</p>
+<p>Members must never refuse a drink.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The President certainly set a fair example in his endeavour to
+perform the duties of his office, and would never be mistaken for
+a member of the Blue Ribbon Army, even if he did not wear the
+badge, for good wine had marked him for its own.&nbsp; Under the
+<a name="page234"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+234</span>fostering influence of such rules and such a
+&ldquo;noble&rdquo; example, it is not to be wondered at that the
+Army showed a blatant front to the enemy, and that their
+proceedings soon became disorderly.&nbsp; At this juncture some
+good-natured moderate men joined the Reds, with the view, it
+appears, of moderating their offensive tactics, and the result
+was a manifesto which set forth, amongst other things&mdash;That
+the Red Ribbon Army entertained no feelings of ill-will toward
+those who did not agree with them, and invited all to join their
+ranks, and that they assured abstainers that there was always
+iced water on the sideboard of the smoke room for their
+convenience.&nbsp; One of the chiefs of the Reds was a dark man,
+already referred to as Cetewayo, <i>alias</i> the Carrib.&nbsp; I
+one day heard this worthy call one of the Reds to account for
+appearing without his badge, the defaulting member replying that
+he had &ldquo;resigned.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;That won&rsquo;t
+do,&rdquo; said the Carrib, &ldquo;Once a member always a member;
+come and pay up.&rdquo;&nbsp; Yes, I thought, when the devil has
+once got his claws in a man retreat is all but impossible.</p>
+<p>Every one of the young fellows who joined the Reds fell into
+the &ldquo;Spider&rsquo;s&rdquo; web, and were most of them eased
+of their spare cash through the agency of a pack of cards.</p>
+<p>This &ldquo;Spider&rdquo; was one day on deck sitting by the
+side of one of my friends who had just awaked from a doze, to
+whom he said, &ldquo;You have had a nap?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Mr. &mdash; takes his nap on
+deck in the face of day, but you have yours in the dimness of the
+smoke-room&rdquo; (alluding to the game of
+&ldquo;Nap&rdquo;).&nbsp; &ldquo;That&rsquo;s true,&rdquo; said
+he, &ldquo;I like to play when the light <a
+name="page235"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 235</span>is somewhat
+dull.&nbsp; These fellows say I am always winning.&nbsp; Well,
+suppose I am?&nbsp; They keep coming to me, and in Melbourne if
+they consult an expert on any subject they have to pay two
+guineas, and I take no less.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;You take no
+less, and don&rsquo;t refuse more,&rdquo; said I.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Exactly, that is just it,&rdquo; said the Spider, and he
+was said to have cleared out most of the card-playing
+fraternity.&nbsp; Ultimately, the almost unvaried success of the
+Spider caused a general feeling to be raised against him amongst
+the gamblers; but as long as there still remained some who had
+not been relieved of their money, and others whom the Spider had
+allowed to win from him occasionally, this feeling did not exist
+to any great extent.&nbsp; One evening, however, the Pirate
+charged the web-spinner with having cheated him, and a general
+disturbance ensued, the Pirate assuring the Spider that as soon
+as they quitted the ship he would soundly thrash him with a whip,
+which he displayed, so we were in hopes of having a little
+excitement on leaving the vessel.&nbsp; One result, however, was
+to practically dissolve the Red Ribbon army, and the Carrib then
+came out in a new character.&nbsp; At the fancy dress ball held
+on the promenade deck he appeared in a dress suit, and was at
+once saluted with the cry, &ldquo;Here&rsquo;s a lark, Cetewayo
+disguised as a <i>gentleman</i>!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The noble President of the Reds was somewhat of a curiosity in
+his way, a very kind-hearted sympathetic man, as many a poor
+invalid in the second and third classes could testify.&nbsp; The
+doctor told us of many instances of his lordship&rsquo;s kindness
+in visiting some of the sick third-class passengers, and giving
+them dainties from his private stores; and I heard one poor woman
+<a name="page236"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 236</span>tell him
+she should never forget him for his goodness to her
+husband.&nbsp; Some of our colonial passengers, wishing to make
+the most of their unusual proximity to nobility, were too
+persevering in their attentions to his lordship, and evidently
+bored him; but the tact with which he &ldquo;shunted&rdquo; them,
+and the studied politeness of his language, did not prevent
+onlookers detecting a silent &ldquo;confound their
+impudence&rdquo; terminating each reply.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p236.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman"
+title=
+"Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman"
+src="images/p236.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Once, in referring to the pertinacity of these people, he
+remarked to a bystander, in a hissing tone, &ldquo;One
+<i>must</i> be civ-il.&rdquo;&nbsp; The noble lord took a great
+interest in everything pertaining to sailors; his regard for them
+was evidently warm and genuine.&nbsp; While we were passing
+through <a name="page237"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+237</span>the Canal, coming to our anchorage for the night, we
+found the space at our disposal was very limited, as the vessels
+were numerous, consequently our men had to be very active in
+getting the ship into her berth.&nbsp; I was standing by his
+lordship&rsquo;s side, looking at the sailors running along the
+sandbank, carrying the heavy cable as nimbly as though it was a
+fishing line.&nbsp; Lord &mdash; was delighted, and, turning to
+me, and in his funny fashion grasping his clothes in front of the
+place where his stomach should be, exclaimed in tones of rapture,
+&ldquo;Look at our <i>de-ah</i> blue-jackets, look!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>His lordship was very popular with the young men on board, but
+I hope he did not often make such observations to them, as one
+young gentleman informed me he had made to him, speaking of his
+past life.&nbsp; &ldquo;I have committed many sins in my
+time,&rdquo; said his lordship, &ldquo;and I hope to live to
+commit many more.&rdquo;</p>
+<h2><a name="page238"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+238</span>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+<p>Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my
+companion and a friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who
+invited them to dine with him.&nbsp; It soon became evident that
+intercourse would have to be conducted through interpreters, as
+Arabi understood neither French nor English, and his visitors
+were ignorant of Arabic.</p>
+<p>My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table
+caused him great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had
+given him strict orders to avoid.&nbsp; What was to be
+done?&nbsp; My companion explained to the invalid that in the
+East no greater affront could be given to a host than to decline
+to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided
+himself with Jack the Giant Killer&rsquo;s device for disposing
+of surplus food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain
+fearful forebodings.</p>
+<p><a name="page239"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+239</span>Arabi&rsquo;s personal appearance had greatly altered,
+he having grown a beard which was turning grey.&nbsp; At the
+table with him were his two sons, lads apparently of ten and
+twelve years respectively.&nbsp; On his left sat Fehmi Pasha, a
+man of very striking appearance with a face indicating
+considerable intellectual power.&nbsp; Arabi desired to know what
+the English thought of him, a question which my companion parried
+by saying the English always respected a brave man.&nbsp; Rising
+to take leave of the host, my companion patted the head of the
+eldest boy in a kindly manner.&nbsp; This seemed to move Arabi in
+a singular way.&nbsp; He rose and said, in a sharp tone of
+command, to his boys, &ldquo;Salaam,&rdquo; then, crossing the
+room and placing his hand on my companion&rsquo;s shoulder, said
+with some emotion, &ldquo;Ah, ah, good, good.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place,
+without a single redeeming feature, in European eyes.&nbsp; Those
+of our countrymen who are compelled to reside here in the service
+of the country are entitled to the deepest sympathy of every
+Englishman.&nbsp; The possession of Aden is of considerable
+importance to England and to India, both as a coaling station and
+as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of less
+importance than formerly.&nbsp; The islands commanding the
+channels at the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to
+the position, one of the most important being the Island of
+Perim, the acquisition of which does more credit to the
+<i>&rsquo;cuteness</i> of the British commander at Aden than to
+his sense of honour&mdash;that is, if the story told of him be
+true.&nbsp; It is related that one evening, nearly forty years
+ago, two <a name="page240"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+240</span>French war-ships cast anchor before Aden, and the
+English governor with a laudable desire to ascertain the object
+of their visit invited the commanders of the ships to
+dinner.&nbsp; Unfortunately for France the officers were not
+teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British
+commander&rsquo;s wine strong, the gallant Frenchmen&rsquo;s
+tongues were loosened, and the perfidious Englishman ascertained
+that the mission with which his guests were charged was no less
+than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the name of Louis
+Philippe, King of the French!</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p240.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Adenese Women"
+title=
+"Adenese Women"
+src="images/p240.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the
+captain of the English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all
+speed and in the strictest secrecy to take possession of the
+island in the name of the Queen!&nbsp; The sun had risen before
+the festivities at the governor&rsquo;s residence had ceased, and
+then with many bows his guests departed to their ships, and
+shortly afterwards left <a name="page241"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 241</span>Aden for their destination.&nbsp; On
+arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined
+when they saw on the highest point on the island the British flag
+flying, and the gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the
+previous day anchored close inshore.&nbsp; The incident gave
+occasion for much tall talk at the time on the part of the fiery
+French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear, gave fresh life
+to the cry of &ldquo;Perfidious Albion.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon
+as our steamer stopped, our old dragoman Hassan came on board
+with a huge packet of letters for us, and although he had only
+seen us once before, three years ago, he not only remembered our
+names but came straight to us and told us he had brought a boat
+for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged for us at the
+hotel.&nbsp; We owed all this attention&mdash;which was most
+seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a
+malarious fever contracted in Australia&mdash;to Messrs. Cook and
+Son, who had been advised of my coming, and here I will say that
+in Egypt and Syria the name of &ldquo;Cook&rdquo; is the talisman
+which solves all difficulties and robs travelling of nearly all
+its inconveniences.</p>
+<p>On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour
+of the people since our previous visit.&nbsp; On that occasion
+landing was effected under the greatest difficulties.&nbsp; The
+people seemed to look upon us as fair prey.&nbsp; It was almost
+impossible for us to keep our luggage together, and the insolent
+threatening manner in which <i>backsheesh</i> was demanded was
+not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern
+country for the first time.&nbsp; But now all was <a
+name="page242"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 242</span>changed;
+instead of idle excited crowds loitering everywhere, everyone
+seemed to be engaged in some work, <i>backsheesh</i> was rarely
+asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one refusal was
+enough.&nbsp; Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when
+their proffered services were declined they went away with a
+&ldquo;thank you.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us
+that during the war he left it in charge of natives, and found
+everything safe and in order on his return.</p>
+<p>On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo,
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Ismailia and Tel-el-Kebir.&nbsp; At many of the
+stations British soldiers were on guard, a part of their duty
+appearing to be the inspection of the natives&rsquo; baggage;
+this was done amidst much good humour on both sides&mdash;indeed,
+all through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best
+possible terms with the people, as indeed there is every reason
+why he should be, for it is certain he has been the means of
+saving the people of Egypt from a tyranny of the worst
+kind&mdash;the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and
+military.&nbsp; With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our
+party of four had arranged to have the whole of the compartment
+of the railway-carriage to ourselves.&nbsp; It is true we paid
+extra for the convenience, but at one of the stations, the train
+being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured to enter, being
+prevented, however, by the Arab conductor.&nbsp; The Frenchmen,
+with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to the
+Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas
+it was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there
+were eight persons <a name="page243"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+243</span>in the compartment, although it was patent to all that
+there were only four.&nbsp; &ldquo;Four!&rdquo; said the
+Frenchmen.&nbsp; &ldquo;Eight!&rdquo; returned the guard, giving
+us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort
+<i>backsheesh</i>.&nbsp; Ultimately our would-be companions were
+safely bestowed elsewhere.</p>
+<p>The railway passes by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the
+entrenchments stretching as far as the eye can reach.&nbsp; When
+my companion went over the ground a few weeks after the battle it
+was covered with debris of every kind, clothing, arms,
+ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a battle-field.</p>
+<p>In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from
+the New Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from
+the Koran, and hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic,
+addressed to a soldier on the field, requesting him to authorise
+the writer to collect his rents in Cairo.</p>
+<p>On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of
+tourists who had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from
+the battle-field, but since my friend&rsquo;s visit in the autumn
+everything had been cleared off, and the new comers were
+gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous engagement.</p>
+<p>The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried
+is situated near to the station, and appeared to be kept in
+excellent order.</p>
+<p>In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement,
+latent insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our
+last visit, was very noticeable.&nbsp; There, too,
+<i>backsheesh</i> was rarely demanded, and most of the people
+seemed to have something to do.</p>
+<p><a name="page244"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 244</span>It
+was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town
+in all directions.&nbsp; They seemed to be quite at home.&nbsp;
+One of them informed me he had gone through the Transvaal
+campaign, but very much preferred the land of Goshen!</p>
+<p>While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the
+city was ever free from cholera or some other deadly
+epidemic.&nbsp; The sanitary condition of the streets and public
+places was shocking in the extreme.</p>
+<p>Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government
+offices are the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with
+iron railings.&nbsp; Around the outside is a very handsome paved
+footpath, which, although in the very heart of the city, is in
+many places utterly impassable because of the unspeakable horrors
+accumulated upon it.&nbsp; If the English occupation of Egypt
+does nothing more than cause the towns of that country to be
+properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many lives
+every few years as were lost in the late campaign.</p>
+<p>There are two classes of people who undoubtedly view the
+British occupation of Egypt with great and well-founded
+dislike&mdash;the military party and the pachas.&nbsp; These
+classes have always played into each other&rsquo;s hands, and
+always at the expense of the down-trodden and patient
+fellaheen&mdash;the backbone and mainstay of the country.&nbsp;
+For the latter class the presence of the British army is an
+almost unmixed blessing.</p>
+<p>From time immemorial the desirability of connecting the
+Mediterranean and Red Seas by a canal has been fully recognised;
+but the work does not appear to have been attempted before the
+reign of Pharaoh Necho, who <a name="page245"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 245</span>undertook to construct a canal
+between the Nile and the Red Sea.&nbsp; In carrying out this work
+120,000 Egyptians perished, and before it was completed the King
+abandoned it, having been informed by the Oracle that the
+foreigners alone would profit by the work.&nbsp; Eventually the
+canal was completed under the rule of Darius the Persian, and of
+the Ptolemies.</p>
+<p>The canal was carried through the lakes Balah and Menzaleh,
+another branch being constructed to the Bitter Lakes, into which
+the fresh water canal&mdash;watering the land of
+Goshen&mdash;emptied itself; but owing to the constant state of
+war it fell into decay, and was abandoned.</p>
+<p>Many suggestions as to the reopening of the waterway have been
+made in almost every generation since.&nbsp; Bonaparte, during
+his expedition to Egypt in 1798, even caused the preliminary
+works to be undertaken.&nbsp; His chief engineer surveyed the
+ground, but, owing to a serious miscalculation, threw great doubt
+on the possibility of carrying out the work.&nbsp; He estimated
+the level of the Red Sea to be nearly 33ft. higher than that of
+the Mediterranean, an idea that Leibnitz ridiculed nearly a
+century before.&nbsp; Vigorous protests against
+Lep&egrave;re&rsquo;s theory were not wanting, but it was,
+nevertheless, sufficient to cause the abandonment of the scheme
+until Monsieur Lesseps directed his attention to the
+matter.&nbsp; On his appointment as an Attach&eacute; to the
+French Mission, Lesseps had to undergo a lengthy quarantine at
+Alexandria; here he was supplied with books by his Consul, among
+them being Lep&egrave;re&rsquo;s memoirs respecting the scheme
+for connecting the two seas, the effect of which upon the young
+Frenchman&rsquo;s mind was never effaced.</p>
+<p><a name="page246"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 246</span>In
+1847 a Commission of Engineers demonstrated the inaccuracy of
+Lep&egrave;re&rsquo;s observations, and proved that the level of
+the two seas was practically the same.&nbsp; In 1854 Lesseps
+having matured his plan laid it before the Viceroy, who
+determined to carry it out.&nbsp; Palmerston, then premier, did
+his utmost, from political motives, to thwart the enterprise; but
+early in 1856 permission was given to commence the work.</p>
+<p>Considerable difficulty was experienced in raising the
+capital, but on the 25th April, 1858, operations were actually
+begun.&nbsp; The Viceroy undertook to pay many of the current
+expenses, and provided 25,000 workmen, who were to be paid and
+fed by the Company at an inexpensive rate, and were to be
+relieved every three months.&nbsp; In order to provide these men
+with water 4,000 casks suitable for being carried on camels had
+to be made, and 1,600 of these animals were daily employed in
+bringing supplies, at a cost of &pound;320 per day.</p>
+<p>At the end of December, 1863, the Fresh Water Canal was
+completed, by which the Company was relieved of the enormous
+expense of supplying the workmen with water.</p>
+<p>On the 18th March, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was
+allowed to flow into the nearly dry salt-incrusted basins of the
+Bitter Lakes, some parts of which lay forty feet below the level
+of the Mediterranean, while others required extensive dredging
+operations.&nbsp; The Bitter Lakes have been identified with the
+Marah of the Bible (Exodus xv., 23&mdash;&ldquo;And when they
+came to Marah, they could not drink of the waters of Marah for
+they were bitter&rdquo;).&nbsp; The captain of our vessel
+informed <a name="page247"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+247</span>me that in these lakes the saltness, and consequently
+the density, of the water is such as to cause the vessel to rise
+five inches above the ordinary waterline.</p>
+<p>The cost of constructing the Canal amounted to about
+&pound;19,000,000, more than a third of which was contributed by
+the Khedive.&nbsp; The original capital of the company in 400,000
+shares amounted to &pound;8,000,000, the difference being raised
+by loans payable at fixed intervals, and adding an annual burden
+to the scheme of &pound;451,000.&nbsp; The festivities connected
+with the opening of the Canal in 1869 cost the Khedive&mdash;that
+is to say the taxpayer of Egypt&mdash;&pound;14,200,000, or more
+than half the total capital!</p>
+<p>The great mercantile importance of the Canal is apparent from
+the following data:&mdash;Between London and Bombay forty-four
+per cent. of the distance is saved by through-going ships;
+between London and Hong Kong twenty-eight per cent., and between
+Marseilles and Bombay fifty-nine per cent.&nbsp; Over eighty per
+cent. of the trade passing through the Canal is done in British
+vessels, and in 1875&mdash;or six years after the Canal was
+opened&mdash;the English traffic was equal to twelve times that
+of the French.</p>
+<p>In 1870, 486 steamers, representing 493,911 tons, passed
+through the canal, and in 1882 these figures had risen to 3,198
+steamers with 7,125,000 tons.&nbsp; (<i>Baedeker</i>).</p>
+<p>From Port Sa&iuml;d the Canal runs in a nearly straight line
+to Kantara (a mere group of sheds), its course lying across the
+shallow lagoon-like Lake Menzaleh, which has an average depth of
+only three feet.&nbsp; The embankments are low, irregular
+sand-banks, formed of the dredged <a name="page248"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 248</span>material, and having at the margin
+of the water a coarse growth of straggling sedgy-looking
+vegetation.&nbsp; After passing Kantara, the Balah Lakes are
+reached, and the course is marked out in their open surface by a
+double line of buoys.&nbsp; Then the most difficult portion of
+the original work is reached&mdash;viz., the cutting of El Guisr,
+which is six miles long, the depth from ground-level to surface
+of water being about forty-five feet.&nbsp; This is by far the
+highest land in the Isthmus.&nbsp; Leaving the El Guisr cutting,
+the open waters of Lake Timsah, (<i>Crocodile Lake</i>) are
+reached, and far away across its blue mirror-like surface
+stretches the double line of buoys, marking out the track.&nbsp;
+On the northern shore of the lake, buried in a delightful mass of
+vegetation, lies the French town of Ismail&iuml;a, once the great
+centre from which operations during the construction of the Canal
+were conducted, and now one of the principal stations whence its
+navigation is controlled by means of telegraph.&nbsp; Lake Timsah
+has an area of some six or seven square miles, and the huge fleet
+of war vessels, transports, and tenders which Lord Wolseley used
+as a base for his operations in the late campaign lay there
+without difficulty.&nbsp; From Lake Timsah the Suez Canal holds a
+roughly parallel course with the Freshwater Canal and the Suez
+line of railway, and passes through a long cutting into the
+Bitter Lakes, an extremely tame and uninteresting sheet of water
+some fifteen miles long, with flat, low, sandy banks, and thence
+into another long cutting&mdash;some twenty-six feet deep at
+Shalouf&mdash;after which the flat sandy plains of Suez are
+traversed, and the head of the gulf reached.</p>
+<p><a name="page249"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 249</span>The
+impression is general that the Suez Canal is cut through immense
+deposits of sand, or sand and water, but this is quite
+erroneous.&nbsp; The desert, it is true, is sandy and sterile,
+but the sand is quite superficial, covering a gypseous clay, not
+at all difficult to work in.&nbsp; From Balah to the Bitter Lakes
+there is fine muddy sand, with clay at intervals, and at Serapeum
+a rocky barrier.&nbsp; From the Bitter Lakes to Suez, however,
+there is a good clay, with limestone at Shalouf.&nbsp; The
+sinuosities in the Canal are such as to render the passage of
+vessels over 400 feet long somewhat difficult.&nbsp; It was
+expected that these curves would prevent the washing away of the
+banks, but it is doubtful whether they have at all contributed to
+the preservation of the sandy embankments.&nbsp; Indeed, most of
+the predictions of the early destruction of the Canal by the
+operation of natural causes have been proved to be as ill-founded
+as such predictions generally are.&nbsp; The banks have no
+ill-regulated propensity for crumbling away.&nbsp; The Canal is
+<i>not</i> in perpetual and imminent danger of being
+silted-up.&nbsp; The enormous and costly dredging operations that
+were to swallow more than the revenue of the undertaking are
+unknown, and the sole matter for regret is that the Canal was not
+made as wide again as it is, for the accommodation of the vast
+traffic it has created.&nbsp; Among the many confident prophesies
+made by professional engineers of the day, one stands recorded in
+the technical papers to the effect that every vessel must
+necessarily be towed through the Canal, the explanation being
+that the regulation speed of five miles per hour was not
+sufficient to afford steering &ldquo;way&rdquo;; hence, said the
+prophet, the slightest <a name="page250"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 250</span>wind across the line of the Canal
+must infallibly blow ashore any vessel whose commander should
+have the temerity to attempt to steam between the two seas.&nbsp;
+Experience, however, has shown that the largest vessels are under
+perfect command when propelled by their own engines.</p>
+<p>It is impossible for anyone to pass through the Canal without
+being impressed with the urgent necessity for vastly increased
+accommodation for the constantly augmenting traffic.&nbsp; The
+delays occasioned by the difficulties in coaling, the blocks in
+the Canal&mdash;caused sometimes by the enormous traffic, and
+sometimes by the sinking of a ship across the narrow
+channel&mdash;are most vexatious.&nbsp; No less than five days
+elapsed between the time of the arrival of our steamer at Port
+Sa&iuml;d and of its departure from Suez, a distance of less than
+one hundred miles.</p>
+<p>In every way it is most unfortunate for English commerce
+that&mdash;thanks to the mulish obstinacy of Lord
+Palmerston&mdash;the management of the Canal should have been
+thrown into the hands of Frenchmen; for, while according the
+highest meed of praise to M. de Lesseps for his genius, tenacity
+of purpose, and energy, in designing and carrying out such a vast
+undertaking in the teeth of obstacles which would have daunted
+most men, it is impossible to ignore the fact that, as compared
+with English traffic-managers, the French officials responsible
+for the working of the Canal are vastly inferior in
+capacity.&nbsp; The spirit of officialism as displayed by a
+liberal use of red tape, and a certain non-elasticity in carrying
+out the laws, so familiar to all travellers in France, exists in
+an intensified <a name="page251"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+251</span>form in the local management of the Canal.&nbsp; To the
+ordinary traveller through the Canal, for example, it seems
+absurd that vessels should be stopped for the night while some
+hours of light remain, yet as soon as the sun goes down no
+further advance can be made.&nbsp; Again, although daylight comes
+long before sunrise, it is forbidden to move till the sun is
+up.&nbsp; Then again, experience shows that by the use of the
+electric light the largest vessels can be handled with the utmost
+ease.&nbsp; An electric light fixed in the foremast of a ship
+sweeps the Canal from bank to bank, and for all practical
+purposes gives a light equal to that of day; it seems strange,
+therefore, that vessels possessing such appliances should not be
+permitted to proceed during the night.&nbsp; If one ventures to
+make such a suggestion to a Canal official, he at once replies
+that the rules laid down for the regulation of the traffic forbid
+night passages, and if one further ventures to remind him that
+the said rules were made before the introduction of electric
+lighting, he shrugs his shoulders and plainly intimates that you
+have tried his patience long enough.</p>
+<p>A little delegation of authority from the chief office to the
+pilot or other Canal official on board the ships would at once
+result in a vast diminution of delay, and consequently in an
+increase to the capability of the Canal, but the genius of French
+administration appears to be opposed to the granting of any
+latitude or freedom of action to inferior officials, and so in
+the administration of the Canal everything is done by the
+official at the chief office in Ismail&iuml;a, who transmits his
+orders by telegraph.</p>
+<p><a name="page252"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 252</span>But,
+after all the practicable improvements in the navigation of the
+present Canal have been made, the necessity for a new one will be
+no less urgent, and it is especially unfortunate that the
+Conservative party should have made negotiations with M. de
+Lesseps so difficult by openly suggesting that we should use our
+accidental supremacy in Egypt to advance the national interests,
+without regard to the rights possessed by him.&nbsp; Whatever the
+actual status of M. de Lesseps, under his concession, may be, it
+is clear that he has always considered he had a monopoly.&nbsp;
+At the outset he endeavoured to enlist British sympathy and
+capital in his undertaking by demonstrating that the bulk of the
+traffic must necessarily come from English sources.&nbsp; Was it
+probable, therefore, he would have spent the Company&rsquo;s
+capital in making the Canal if, after having demonstrated its
+success, an English company were at liberty to make another,
+alongside, and take away four-fifths of its traffic?</p>
+<p>In business matters the French are proverbially
+short-sighted.&nbsp; They fail to see that &ldquo;three sixpences
+are better than one shilling,&rdquo; and are consequently
+unwilling to surrender present advantages without an absolute
+certainty of an early and great benefit arising from their doing
+so.&nbsp; They are much more truly a nation of retailers or
+shopkeepers than the English are, notwithstanding
+Napoleon&rsquo;s famous epithet.&nbsp; What is wanted is a
+greater breadth of view in the administration of the Canal, and
+it is in this respect that it is particularly unfortunate there
+is not a larger English representation on the Board of
+Management.&nbsp; If we had a representation equal to our share
+of the capital, <a name="page253"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+253</span>the result would soon be apparent in the adoption of a
+line of policy giving the utmost facilities to the Canal&rsquo;s
+customers, to the great advantage of both.</p>
+<p>The recent discussions upon the Suez Canal question cannot
+fail to be of the greatest use to the Government when they reopen
+negotiations with M. de Lesseps, and if the latter finds it
+impossible to make another canal without a further concession of
+land, he may probably think it advisable to conciliate his
+partner and chief customer by making greater concessions in
+return for the influence of the British Government with that of
+the Khedive and the Sultan on his behalf.</p>
+<p>But even if no further advantages for British commerce be
+obtained from the Canal Company, this country occupies a unique
+position as regards communication with the East.&nbsp; In less
+than fifteen years the whole of the original cost of the British
+shares, both principal and interest, will have been paid out of
+profits, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer of the day will have
+to decide as to the destination of the revenue which the shares
+produce.&nbsp; It appears to me that, after making provision for
+the necessary expenses attending the administration of the
+property, it would be both just and politic to return the balance
+to the owners of the ships whose use of the Canal has been the
+means of creating the revenue.&nbsp; If this course be adopted
+British commerce will be immensely benefited, for our ships will
+be able to use the Canal at a little more than half the expense
+falling upon those of other nations, and this great advantage
+will have been obtained without having cost the British taxpayer
+a single penny.&nbsp; The money will simply be returned into <a
+name="page254"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 254</span>the hands
+which contributed it, and the proposal, therefore, does not in
+any way partake of the character of a bounty.</p>
+<p>What is known as the Dual Control was established in
+1879.&nbsp; By it the British and French Controllers-General were
+invested with considerable powers over the administration of the
+finances, in addition to which the Khedive undertook to assign a
+certain portion of the revenue for the discharge of the national
+obligations.</p>
+<p>In the following year a Law of Liquidation, as drawn up by the
+Commissioners appointed for the purpose, was issued with the
+agreement of all the interested European Powers.</p>
+<p>In return for these concessions, the Foreign Bondholders made
+a compromise with the Egyptian Government involving the surrender
+of a considerable portion of their claims.&nbsp; This settlement,
+while relieving the country from an enormous burden, placed it in
+a position to meet its liabilities and to progress in the
+development of its resources, and, in the language of Lord
+Granville in his despatch to Lord Dufferin, &ldquo;it was
+undoubtedly working well for the material prosperity of the
+country, and promised to do so for the future;&rdquo; and in a
+subsequent despatch the Foreign Secretary declared that, through
+the action of the Control, great advantages had been secured for
+the natives, such as &ldquo;the spread of education, the
+abolition of vexatious taxation, the establishment of the
+land-tax on a regular and equitable basis, and the diminution of
+forced labour.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Our dragoman, an intelligent Copt, fully corroborated Lord
+Granville&rsquo;s statement.&nbsp; He said that all that <a
+name="page255"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 255</span>the
+Egyptian people required was moderate taxation, certainty as to
+its amount and as to the time of its collection, and such a
+military law as would relieve them from the press-gang.&nbsp; He
+further said that before the institution of the Control, whenever
+the Khedive wanted a new ironclad, or a new palace, or half a
+dozen additional inmates for his harem, he ordered a new tax to
+be levied; this tax was sold to some of the rapacious pachas
+about the Palace, and resold by them to professional
+tax-gatherers.&nbsp; These wretches committed the greatest
+atrocities upon the miserable fellaheen, exacting the uttermost
+farthing under the threat, and often the actual application, of
+torture; &ldquo;but now,&rdquo; said my informant,
+&ldquo;although the taxes are heavy, their amount is known, and
+they are collected in coin after the harvest has been
+gathered.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The country was becoming very prosperous, and there was a
+surplus in the Treasury when, in February, 1881, a military riot
+broke out, originating in the arrest of certain Egyptian
+officers, among whom was the Colonel of the 1st Regiment.&nbsp;
+The officers of this regiment broke into the Council Room of the
+Ministry of War, ill-treated the Minister, and then, having
+released the prisoners, proceeded to the Khedive&rsquo;s Palace,
+followed by the men of the regiment.&nbsp; In menacing tones they
+demanded the dismissal of the Minister of War, and redress for
+their grievances.&nbsp; Arabi Bey was one of the chief actors in
+this revolt.&nbsp; The Khedive was compelled to submit, the
+mutinous colonels were reinstated, and tranquillity was restored
+for the time.</p>
+<p><a name="page256"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 256</span>The
+army officers were not long, however, in showing what their
+principal object was, for in a few weeks after the revolt,
+decrees were issued increasing the pay of the army and navy to
+the extent of nearly &pound;60,000 a year.&nbsp; The
+Controllers-General had now become aware that everything was at
+the disposal of the military party, and that the Minister could
+not guarantee that the officers would not next day insist upon
+fresh financial concessions.&nbsp; The next demand made by the
+colonels was that nominations to vacant posts in regiments should
+rest with them, and this was granted.&nbsp; The object of all
+this was clear enough&mdash;indeed, Arabi declared at one of the
+meetings of the Commission that &ldquo;he would not yield
+unconditional obedience to the War Minister.&rdquo;&nbsp; As time
+went on fresh symptoms of disaffection broke out, all indicating
+the determination of the military party to throw off all control
+and restraint.&nbsp; In September the Ministry was dismissed at
+the instance of these same men, who throughout the remainder of
+the year continued a harassing series of turbulent outbreaks,
+gradually increasing in audacity, and more and more trenching
+upon matters of administration.&nbsp; They went so far as to
+demand an increase in the army, involving an annual addition to
+the estimates of &pound;280,000, although the Controllers
+declared that not nearly half that amount was available.</p>
+<p>The principal figure in all these outbreaks was Arabi, who
+steadily kept himself at the head of the disaffected party, and
+gradually increased his influence.&nbsp; After being appointed
+Under Secretary of War, then Chief Secretary, he was described by
+Sir E. Malet as having become &ldquo;Arbiter of the destinies of
+the <a name="page257"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+257</span>country.&rdquo;&nbsp; In March he was made Pasha, and
+the Khedive was compelled to assent to a number of promotions by
+Arabi, who insisted on dispensing with the examination required
+by law for officers.&nbsp; In a word, the real power had become
+vested in the chiefs of the military party, and the objects of
+those chiefs were showing themselves more and more evidently to
+be, increase of the army, increase of pay and promotion of a
+large number of officers to high military rank&mdash;the desire
+of all such men in every country of the world.</p>
+<p>In the following month Arabi caused numerous arrests to be
+made among the officers and soldiery in consequence of an alleged
+conspiracy to murder him.&nbsp; Among the prisoners was the
+Minister of War, who had been dismissed at the demand of the
+mutinous regiments in the previous February.&nbsp; The prisoners
+were tried by a court-martial&mdash;irregularly
+constituted&mdash;and the proceedings were kept secret, while no
+counsel were allowed for the defence.&nbsp; It was generally
+believed that torture had been used to extort confession.&nbsp;
+Forty officers were condemned to exile for life to the farthest
+limits of the Soudan.&nbsp; The Khedive, with great courage,
+refused to sanction the sentence, and issued a decree commuting
+it to simple banishment from Egypt.</p>
+<p>In the meantime the excitement continued to increase, and the
+Governments of France and England decided to send a naval force
+to Alexandria for the protection of the interests of their
+subjects in Egypt.&nbsp; The combined fleet arrived at Alexandria
+on the 20th of May.&nbsp; On June 11th the great riot and
+massacre of Europeans took place, Arabi in the meanwhile erecting
+<a name="page258"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 258</span>new
+earthworks and strengthening the forts, in spite of his repeated
+assurances to the contrary.&nbsp; On July 11th, the French fleet
+having withdrawn, and twenty-four hours&rsquo; notice having
+expired, Admiral Seymour opened fire on the forts, and after a
+few hours completely silenced them; not, however, without his
+ships having suffered considerably in the encounter.</p>
+<p>The above is a sketch of Arabi&rsquo;s career from the time of
+his first coming into public notice to the time when he became
+Dictator.&nbsp; He was at no pains to conceal his character as a
+military adventurer, and every successive step in his career
+proves him to have been no other.&nbsp; It is true that during
+the last few weeks he appeared to carry the country with him,
+which, however, is not difficult to account for, seeing that he
+was &ldquo;master of the legions,&rdquo; and that detachments of
+the army had been sent out into the highways and byways to compel
+men to come in at the point of the bayonet.&nbsp; In ordinary
+times it is no uncommon thing to see a chain-gang going through
+the streets of Egyptian towns composed, not of criminals, but of
+unhappy wretches brought in by the press-gang for service in the
+army, and should any of them falter in their steps through
+weariness or despair, the heavy stick of the driver is always
+ready to descend upon their shoulders.&nbsp; The only effect of
+the success of the movement headed by Arabi would have been the
+perpetuation and extension of this terrible state of things; and
+yet this is the man who has been persistently held up to the
+admiration of the world as a pure-minded patriot by a large
+section of what is called the Peace Party in <a
+name="page259"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+259</span>England.&nbsp; In the towns Arabi and his agents worked
+upon the cupidity of the lower orders by telling them that he
+intended to drive the foreigners into the sea, and that their
+property should be given over to a general loot.&nbsp; In the
+country districts, where the fellaheen are ground down under the
+heel of the usurer&mdash;always a foreigner, as the Koran forbids
+usury&mdash;Arabi promised to cancel the village debts, and
+banish the usurers; <a name="citation259a"></a><a
+href="#footnote259a" class="citation">[259a]</a> while in Upper
+Egypt, where usury is less common, he appealed to Mohammedan
+fanaticism.&nbsp; But nowhere did he appeal to a national
+sentiment, <a name="citation259b"></a><a href="#footnote259b"
+class="citation">[259b]</a> until, indeed, by various devices, he
+had become absolute master of the country, when perhaps he
+thought he might say <i>L&rsquo;Etat, c&rsquo;est moi</i>.</p>
+<h2><a name="page260"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+260</span>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+<p>A wretched journey of over eight hours by rail brought us to
+Alexandria shortly before midnight.&nbsp; A fierce gale with rain
+prevailed during most of the journey, and owing to the
+dilapidated condition of the carriage, waterproofs were necessary
+to protect us from the rain, which, in spite of closed windows,
+found access to every part of the compartment.&nbsp; The line
+itself and the whole of the rolling stock, were in a miserable
+condition of disrepair, and utterly unfit for traffic.</p>
+<p>The drive from the railway station to the Hotel Abbat gave us
+our first glimpse of the ruin wrought by the rioters.&nbsp; The
+raging storm and drenching sleet were singularly in accord with
+the scene of desolation and misery on every hand.&nbsp; After the
+long and cold railway journey, and the drive in the open vehicle
+from the station, we were in hopes of finding comfortable
+quarters in the hotel, but the wretchedness prevailing outside
+seemed to have penetrated into every corner of <a
+name="page261"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 261</span>the
+establishment.&nbsp; It was impossible to get anything hot to
+eat, and the cold meats were most uninviting.&nbsp; The
+proprietor, expecting another train in about an hour, deferred
+serving even this cold cheer until its arrival.&nbsp; Meanwhile
+nothing remained for us but to try to warm ourselves by pacing up
+and down the scantily-furnished <i>salle a manger</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p261.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Familiar Face"
+title=
+"A Familiar Face"
+src="images/p261.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We were glad to get to bed notwithstanding that the carpets in
+the bedrooms were flapping in the wind in the most vigorous
+manner during the night.</p>
+<p><a name="page262"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 262</span>On
+rising next morning we found the storm had not abated, indeed it
+continued with undiminished fury during the whole of our
+stay.&nbsp; Our time, however, being limited, it was necessary to
+disregard the weather in order to visit the scene of the recent
+operations and the ruins of the city.&nbsp; On leaving the hotel
+our dragoman of three years ago, Kalifa, at once recognised us,
+and under his guidance we made a tour of the fortresses, going
+first to Ras-el-Tin.&nbsp; We found the palace of that name,
+which forms the landward boundary of the fortress, still
+partially in ruins and apparently deserted.&nbsp; One could not
+help feeling that the architect, in selecting such a site for a
+royal residence, must have regarded the possibility of an attack
+upon the fort from the sea as being too remote to be taken into
+account.&nbsp; Some of the other forts had at one time stood
+isolated from the town, but apparently it might be said of the
+Alexandrians that</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Exceeding peace had made them
+bold,&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>for the approaches to the forts had gradually been built upon
+until at length some of the houses were even erected against the
+fortifications.&nbsp; These were the houses which were destroyed
+during the bombardment, and the ruin of which gave rise to the
+impression that the city itself had been shelled.&nbsp; All the
+forts presented the same dismal aspect of ruin.&nbsp; Shattered
+ramparts, battered casemates, huge holes in the walls of the
+store-houses; the heavy Armstrong guns dismantled, some with the
+muzzle pointed high up in the air, others lying on the ground; in
+all cases the gun-carriages smashed and crushed into
+shapelessness; burst shells, and heaps of stones and mortar lying
+everywhere; great deep pits in <a name="page263"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 263</span>the ground, showing where an
+&ldquo;Inflexible&rdquo; shell had burst.&nbsp; The buildings and
+ramparts are of loosely-built stonework, hence wherever a shell
+struck, it told with full and destructive effect.&nbsp; Here and
+there one could see that a single shell had penetrated a rampart,
+scattered the earth, upheaved a heavy Armstrong, and enveloped a
+casemate in a heap of demolished masonry.&nbsp; In Fort A&iuml;da
+an explosion, which wrecked the whole place, occurred early in
+the action.&nbsp; In the whole of the forts there were Armstrong
+guns of great calibre and of modern date.&nbsp; Their appearance
+after the bombardment was most extraordinary: pieces knocked out
+of the muzzles, huge slabs sheared out of their sides, and in
+many cases the coils pitted with shot marks.&nbsp; In most
+places, and at Fort Meks in particular, the muzzles were burst,
+but this was the work of the landing parties shortly after the
+action.&nbsp; There can be no question that the armament of these
+forts was of a very formidable character, and that the condition
+of the fleet after the encounter might have been a very serious
+one had the guns throughout been well handled.</p>
+<p>After leaving the Forts we went with a friend, long resident
+in Alexandria, to Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the
+city.&nbsp; The word Ramleh means &ldquo;sand,&rdquo; and that
+being so it may be said that no place was ever more appropriately
+named.&nbsp; It is a mere sand waste by the shore, and its villas
+are separated by sand wastes.&nbsp; The effect is somewhat
+Australian, and the use of verandahs and Venetian shutters helps
+the suggestion.&nbsp; Our friend&rsquo;s house was close to what
+is known as Gun Hill, that is, where the 40-pounders were, and
+from his Egyptian roof he could see Arabi&rsquo;s advanced
+position <a name="page264"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+264</span>and the whole of the British camp.&nbsp; At 4 p.m.
+every day it was the custom to go and see the practice from Gun
+Hill.&nbsp; Mr. A.&rsquo;s house was open during the whole time,
+and he told us it was for the most part more like a picnic than a
+campaign.&nbsp; The officers, however, were frequently called
+from his billiard table by an alarm from the camp, and on such
+occasions Mr. A. had an understanding with them that should the
+English be driven in they were to warn him when retreating past
+his house by firing a volley through his windows!&nbsp; There
+were of course times of great anxiety notwithstanding the
+excitement and interest.</p>
+<p>Mr. A. was in Alexandria during the massacre, and at the time
+of the bombardment he was only away two days, being the first to
+return to his house and live in it.&nbsp; While there, many of
+the neighbouring houses were looted.&nbsp; His description of the
+daily shooting of looters reminded one of the accounts of the
+latter days of the Paris Commune.&nbsp; Mr. A.&rsquo;s garden is
+ornamented with heavy English shells, which, he tells his
+visitors, fell there&mdash;from a cart!</p>
+<p>During the afternoon we had a stroll through the European
+quarter of the city, and were amazed at the destruction to be
+seen on every hand.&nbsp; The rows of fine houses, the shops, the
+buildings of the Grand Square, the Place Mohammed Ali, with its
+gardens, all a mass of unsightly ruins, from which workmen were
+getting out the stones and stacking them up in long rows on the
+footways.&nbsp; We had been pretty familiar with Alexandria, but
+in the maze of ruined stonework we were completely at a loss and
+could not find our way.&nbsp; Kalifa, however, came to our
+assistance, and <a name="page265"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+265</span>guided by him we took a drive through the native
+quarter, and soon perceived that, though the destruction by
+incendiarism was unfortunately greatest in the European quarter,
+the <i>petroleurs</i> had not spared their fellows, for many
+native houses were burned.&nbsp; The extent to which property was
+destroyed is incredible.&nbsp; There must be several miles of
+streets in the sheerest ruin.&nbsp; The poor shopkeepers of the
+Place Mohammed Ali now occupy temporary wooden shanties, and the
+general aspect of this once gay and opulent quarter is wretched
+in the extreme.</p>
+<p>We next day paid a visit to Fort Meks, but except that its
+armament was somewhat heavier than that of its fellows, there
+were no new features to be seen.&nbsp; The same desolate
+appearance of ruin and destruction&mdash;crippled gun-carriages,
+burst guns, crumbling ramparts, and shell-ploughed ground.&nbsp;
+This fort, from the accuracy of its gun practice, was the most
+troublesome to the fleet.&nbsp; The five terrible
+&ldquo;Armstrongs,&rdquo; however, lay burst and useless in the
+sand drifts, with the rude and forgotten graves of the poor
+gunners round about them.</p>
+<p>A flood of misplaced eloquence has been expended in denouncing
+the conduct of the British Government for having &ldquo;bombarded
+and utterly destroyed a defenceless commercial city,&rdquo; and
+the statement has been repeated so often as to be believed by
+many; but I will venture to say that no one will for one moment
+believe it who has had the opportunity, as I have, of being
+conducted over the city and the fortifications by an intelligent
+gentleman, an old resident, who was present during the whole of
+the operations, and who <a name="page266"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 266</span>emphatically denies that the
+bombardment of the forts caused any greater damage than I have
+described.&nbsp; The charge has come mainly from the advocates of
+peace; but it is a misfortune that such a sacred cause should be
+damaged by gross exaggerations, and by statements which it is
+impossible to sustain.&nbsp; The cause of peace, like the
+temperance cause, has suffered greatly by this habit of
+exaggeration.</p>
+<p>At the <i>table d&rsquo;hote</i> I sat by an English officer
+who had been in the thick of the fight at Kassassin, and who had
+escaped unhurt; he did not seem inclined to say much about his
+experiences on that terrible day, but he entertained a great
+respect for the fighting capacity of the Egyptian soldier when
+properly led.</p>
+<p>During the whole of our stay in Alexandria the weather
+continued to be extremely boisterous and very cold, and we were
+glad to get on board the P. and O. steamer for Brindisi.&nbsp;
+Some Anglo-Indians joined the vessel here, and we had an
+opportunity of observing the way in which some of our countrymen
+treat native races.</p>
+<p>A crowd of Arabs in boats were alongside, offering their wares
+to the passengers as they stepped up the side of the ship.&nbsp;
+Amongst the rest there was a man with his little daughter
+offering raw eggs, beads, shells, etc.&nbsp; Two of the
+Anglo-Indians having bought a dozen of the eggs, and having
+stationed themselves in a convenient position on deck, proceeded
+to pelt the poor trader, completely spoiling his stock, and
+covering him and his child with the contents of the
+missiles.&nbsp; During the voyage these fellows also behaved in a
+brutal manner towards the native stewards on board.&nbsp; <a
+name="page267"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 267</span>It is not
+to be wondered at that men like these object to judicial powers
+over Europeans being extended to natives, for it is probable that
+under the operation of the Ilbert Bill they would stand a fair
+chance of getting what they do not want&mdash;viz.,
+justice.&nbsp; It is not difficult to imagine how such men would
+act towards the natives if they were a thousand miles away from a
+court having jurisdiction in cases of violence on the part of
+Europeans against natives.</p>
+<p>Stay-at-home folks in England usually think of the
+Mediterranean as being calm as a lake, bathed in sunlight, and
+blue as the famous grotto in the Island of Capri; but such has
+not been my experience on the three occasions upon which I have
+traversed its length.</p>
+<p>Once, however, as we were leaving Alexandria, a very beautiful
+phenomenon presented itself.&nbsp; The waters of the harbour were
+of a dead pale sea-green while outside the bar the Mediterranean
+was of an intense, opalescent, turquoise-blue, so exquisitely
+beautiful that the attention of the whole ship&rsquo;s company
+was directed upon it.&nbsp; We presently crossed the bar and
+dipped right into this extraordinary colour.&nbsp; The line of
+demarcation was clear and sharp, and lay just outside the
+harbour.</p>
+<p>On reaching the open sea we encountered a furious gale, which
+continued with varying intensity until our arrival off Brindisi
+four days afterwards&mdash;twenty-four hours after time.&nbsp;
+The sea, which had been running high during the whole voyage,
+made a clean breach of the bridge on the last evening,
+necessitating the bringing of the vessel&rsquo;s head to the wind
+and &ldquo;lying-to&rdquo; for the night.</p>
+<p><a name="page268"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 268</span>On
+arrival off the entrance to the harbour no pilot was forthcoming,
+and it began to be whispered that we should not be permitted to
+land without undergoing quarantine; but happily our fears proved
+to be groundless, and the captain having run up a signal
+informing the port authorities of his intention to go in without
+a pilot, we were soon alongside, and on European soil once
+again.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p268.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns"
+title=
+"After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns"
+src="images/p268.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">THE END.</p>
+<h2><a name="page269"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+269</span>INDEX.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Albatross, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span> @115}</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>America (<i>see also</i> United States)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span>&ndash;<span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>America&mdash;Journey across from San Francisco</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Albany</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Schools at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Alkali Plains, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;American Language</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Andr&eacute;, Major</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Appetising Mottoes and Sentiments</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Arnold, General</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bill of Fare, A Curious</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blue Gum, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Brigham Young&rsquo;s Dominions</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bright, John</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Boats</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bogus Ticket Sellers, Beware of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Buildings, Block of, Removed Bodily</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bull Frogs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Buttes, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ca&ntilde;ons</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cape Horn</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Catskill Mountains</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chicago</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Fires in</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Streets in, Equal to Best in
+London</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Timber Houses still Numerous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Water Supply for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Churches, Opposition</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Corinn&eacute;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Corn over Ten Feet High</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; without Manure</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Country like a Park</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cow-Catcher, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Crash, A Tremendous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Descent of 8,000 feet</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Detroit</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Devil&rsquo;s Slide, The
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dining Car, A Well-appointed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dollar will Go a Long Way</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page168">168</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Elevation, Greatest Attained</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;English Gold Refused</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Eschscholtzias growing wild</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page270"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 270</span>Eucalyptus, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Falls River</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fields Hundreds of Acres in extent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fires in Chicago</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Flowers, Immense patches of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free Country</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gold-Diggings reworked by Chinese</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Track through</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gum Tree, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hotel, The Grand Pacific, Chicago</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hudson River</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Identification a Difficult Task</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I guess I&rsquo;ll take your Gold</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Indians, Dreadful looking</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; on the War-Path</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;John Scales, Justice of the Peace
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page168">168</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Justice, A Dealer in</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page168">168</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lake Ontario</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Language, American</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Life on the Road, A New Feature of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lupins growing wild</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Marigolds, Patches of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Military Academy, West Point</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mineral Wealth, Untold</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Money-Lender complains</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Monument Rock (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mormon Advice</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Tabernacle Visited</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Wives lack Cordiality</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Narrow Escape</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Night Attack on Indians</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ogden</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Omaha</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pacific Railroad, A Single Track</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pallisades, The, Hudson River
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Passport Found Useful</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pine Forests</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Poultry Secured by the Leg</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pullman Train, Life on Board</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Railway Covered with Sheds</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; on Trestles</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Open to Prairie</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Ride, a splendid one</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Red Sandstone Rocks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ride, A Long (Omaha to Chicago)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rip van Winkle</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;River Boats</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Hudson</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rome</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sacramento Valley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page271"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 271</span>Saints, Cruel Treatment by the</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Salt Lake City Beautifully Situated</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sambo said &ldquo;No Sah!&rdquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Schools, National, at Albany</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Snow Mountains</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Travelling through</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Soil Twenty Feet Deep</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Steamers on the Rivers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Streets in Chicago Equal to Best in
+London</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sulphur Spring</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Syracuse</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Taurus Meets the Train</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tennyson Claimed as an American
+Author</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Timber Houses still Numerous in
+Chicago</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Train, The Last Over</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, Met by Taurus</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Trapper&rsquo;s Story, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Turning Point between East and West</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Utica</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Water Supply for Chicago</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;West Point, on the Hudson</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Witches, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>American Grievance</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash; Passengers from Honolulu</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Americans not good Sailors</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ascension, Island of (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Auckland</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Avoca (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Woolgrowers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Australian Colonies (<i>see also</i> Melbourne, Sydney,
+Victoria, Tasmania, New South Wales)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Agricultural Labour, A Fine Field
+for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Artisans, Skilled</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Australia, People of, Described</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Young</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Climate Exhausting</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>Ornithorhynchus paradoxus</i>
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Drought, A Ten Months&rsquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Education Amply Provided for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Emigrate, Who should</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free Trade</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Labour Market, State of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Unskilled, A Fine Field for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mining Machinery, Perfection of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Platypus, The Duck-billed
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Population</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Surplus, Great Field for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Postal Arrangements</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page272"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 272</span>Railways</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rent of Houses Enormously Dear</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Schools, First-rate</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Telegraphs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wages Higher, but Most Things Dearer,
+than in England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Baby Hippopotamus at Play (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ballarat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Botanical Gardens</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gold Mine</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Smallness of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gold Raised</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lake Wendouree</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bananas</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bay of Biscay</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Betting on Board Ship</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Boat in a Squall off Plymouth</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page2">2</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Brandy or Whisky?</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Brummagem Shams, where manufactured</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Burial at Sea</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Burying the Dead Horse (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Campbell Town</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Our Waiter at (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Canada</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;American Customs Officer&rsquo;s
+Equipment</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Clifton House, Niagara</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Desecration, Ruthless</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Green Fields like those at Home</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Great Western Railway</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;London</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Niagara, Impressions of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Paris</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Photographers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Salary, Must Raise, I Guess</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Suspension Bridge at Niagara,
+Crossing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Centipedes, A Plague of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Chair, Taking the</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Coral Reefs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Day Dropped</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Day Gained</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Duel, Rumours of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Educated in Four Colleges</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Egypt</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span>&ndash;<span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page268">268</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Abaid</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page197">197</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Abbaseyeh Palace</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Abbas Pasha</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Abraham or Isaac, Old Fellow like</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Aden, a Dreadful Place</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Importance of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page273"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 273</span>Adenese Women (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page240">240</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Agricultural Operations</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page223">223</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Agriculture &agrave; la Adam</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page188">188</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Alexandria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page260">260</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; in Ruins</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page264">264</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; not Bombarded</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page265">265</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; the Forts after Bombardment</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page262">262</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Anglo-Indians</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page266">266</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Apis Mausoleum, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Arab, A Discerning</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page232">232</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; An, Hanged</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page228">228</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; School in Syria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page211">211</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Arabi, Appointed Under Secretary of
+War</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page256">256</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; at Colombo</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page238">238</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Bey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page255">255</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Causes Numerous Arrests</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Erects New Earth-works</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page258">258</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; How he Recruited his Army</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page258">258</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Made Pasha</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Military Adventurer</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page258">258</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Moved in a singular way</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Principal Figure in
+Outbreaks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page256">256</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Visit to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page238">238</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Arabi&rsquo;s Personal Appearance</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Arabs, Bedouin</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; How Kept in Order</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Picturesque Party of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Au Revoir (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page225">225</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Backsheesh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page185">185</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page195">195</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page197">197</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page198">198</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page224">224</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page228">228</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page241">241</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page243">243</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; not demanded</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Balah, Lake of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bazaars, In the</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bedrash&ecirc;n</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Beggars</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page195">195</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bellows, not made in Birmingham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bery cheap, sah! (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bethshemish (Heliopolis)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Biblical Allusions, How to
+Understand</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page185">185</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Biograph, A Graphic</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bitter Lakes, The, Identified with
+Marah</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page246">246</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Saltness of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Black Guard, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page242">242</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blacking a Boy&rsquo;s Bare Feet</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blue Jackets, Look at our
+<i>de-ah</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page237">237</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blue Ribbon Army</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page233">233</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Boat or Dahabieh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Boats, How Propelled</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bohemiennes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page228">228</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bonaparte, Attempts to Reopen Suez
+Canal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page274"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 274</span>Bond-holders, Foreign</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page254">254</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bridal Party, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page192">192</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Brindisi</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page267">267</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;British Canal Shares Profitable</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page253">253</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Mission, Schools at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page211">211</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;B&ucirc;lak, A Street in
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page219">219</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Suburb of Cairo</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bull, The Sacred</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Burying-ground</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cairo</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page187">187</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page188">188</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page242">242</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Sanitary Condition of,
+Shocking</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Trades of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page188">188</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Visit to, by Train</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Camelcade, A (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page208">208</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Camelcades</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Camels, Strings of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Carriages, Ladies&rsquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Casinos</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page228">228</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cemetery, An Ancient</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cetewayo, <i>alias</i> The Carrib</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page234">234</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Disguised as a Gentleman
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page235">235</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page236">236</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cheops, Great Pyramid of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page197">197</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Children, Naked</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page208">208</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Christian, I am a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Citadel, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;City, A great</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Civ-il, One must be</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page236">236</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Colombo</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page238">238</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Colonels, The, Make further Demands</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page256">256</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Concert, A Pleasant, Looked Forward
+to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page228">228</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cook and Son</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page241">241</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Name of, a Talisman</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page241">241</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Coptic Guide offered a Commission</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Coral Necklaces</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page227">227</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cotter, Lieutenant</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Court Martial, Irregular</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Crocodile</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; A dead</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Lake</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Crowd, A Motley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Custom-house Examination</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; occupied by English
+Artillerymen</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page227">227</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dahabieh or Nile boat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dancers and Howlers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dervishes, The, Dancing and Howling</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, Supported by Government
+Endowment</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Desert, Prayers in the
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Devils, Familiar</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page195">195</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Donkey Boy, An Egyptian
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; My Donkey, good sah</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page275"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 275</span>Donkey Ride</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; across the Nile</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Donkeys for Nine</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Homeward Bound</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Names of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Universal Use of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page214">214</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dragoman (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Drive to Heliopolis</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dual Control, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page254">254</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dutch Hotel occupied by Royal
+Marines</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page228">228</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Egg-hatching Establishment</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Eggs, she only steals the Eggs now</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Egypt, British Occupation of, how
+Beneficial</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; by whom Disliked</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Egyptian Character, Saddest Side of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; People, Requirements of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page255">255</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Electric Light, The,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page231">231</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;El Guisr, The Cutting of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Embroidery</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;End, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page268">268</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Englishman perfidious</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page240">240</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;English Representation on Board of
+Management of Suez Canal not large enough</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page252">252</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ethiopia shall yet Stretch Forth her
+Hand</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page185">185</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;European Buildings, Few</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exclusiveness, British</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page242">242</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Excursion, A delightful</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page208">208</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ezbekiyeh Public Gardens</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Face, A Familiar (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page261">261</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fair-day, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fakir, A Holy (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fehmi Pasha</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fellaheen, The, ground down</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page259">259</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fort A&iuml;da</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page263">263</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Meks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page263">263</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page265">265</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Gemileh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;French, A Nation of Retailers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page252">252</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Fleet, The, Withdraws</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page258">258</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, outwitted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page240">240</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fresh-water Canal completed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page246">246</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gamblers on Board Ship</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page235">235</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gentlemen of the Long Robe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page227">227</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gizeh, Pyramids of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page195">195</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Station</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Goshen, Land of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Land of, preferred</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Governor, A &rsquo;cute</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Graphic Biograph, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Graveyard at Tel-el-Kebir</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page243">243</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page276"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 276</span>Greek Money-changer</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page226">226</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gun Hill</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page263">263</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hassan</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page241">241</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Sultan</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page192">192</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Disguised as a Pilgrim</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page192">192</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; How he Recovered his Throne</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Heliopolis (Bethshemish)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Drive to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hens, Laziness of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hippopotamus</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Homes, Everlasting</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Home to Vote</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page225">225</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hostelries</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hotel Abbat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page260">260</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Howlers and Dancers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Insects something Maddening</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Irrigation</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page223">223</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Method of, Described</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page188">188</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ismail&iuml;a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Jewellers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Weighing for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Joseph and Mary&rsquo;s Tree</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Kantara</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Khalifs, The Tombs of the
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Khedive&rsquo;s Gardens, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Khedive, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page208">208</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, Compelled to submit</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page255">255</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Koran, The, in Competition with
+Threepenny Pieces</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page189">189</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Labour, Forced, a Painful Sight</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page187">187</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lady, The Last Unmarried</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lake Menzaleh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Timsah</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lakes, The Bitter</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page249">249</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Law of Liquidation</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page254">254</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lep&egrave;re&rsquo;s Theory</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Proved Incorrect</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lesseps, M., Detained at Alexandria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Matures his Theory</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page246">246</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;L&rsquo;etat, c&rsquo;est moi</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page259">259</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Leviathan, Job&rsquo;s Reference to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lucullus</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page259">259</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lily, Painting the</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Luggage, A Lady&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; How Treated</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mameluke Dynasty, The Last of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mamelukes, Massacre of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Manufacturing Quarter</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mariette exhumes the Serapeum</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Marines</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; as Police</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page277"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 277</span>Mausoleum, The Apis</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mecca Pilgrims, Rendezvous of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mediterranean, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page267">267</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Waters of, Flow into Bitter
+Lakes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page246">246</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Member, Once a, always a Member</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page234">234</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Memphis</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Ancient, Site of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Little more than a Name</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Menzaleh, Lake of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page245">245</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Military Riot</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page255">255</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mitrahineh (site of Ancient Memphis)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mohammed Ali, Mosque of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Money-Changers&rsquo; Liberality</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page227">227</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Monument, Most Ancient in the World</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mosque of Sultan Hassan, Visit to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, of Sultan Hassan
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page193">193</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mother, Son thrashes her only once a
+month</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mud, Great Difficulty in Making
+Canal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Museum, The National, for Egyptian
+Antiquities</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mutinous Conduct</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page256">256</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Naval Force sent by France and
+England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Arrival at Alexandria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nap on Deck</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page234">234</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Necropolis, Ancient</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nile-boat, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nile, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page187">187</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Valley of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page188">188</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; View on the (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page198">198</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nobleman, The Languishing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Noph (Memphis)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nubians Reported to be Excellent
+Soldiers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Obelisk, The Oldest in Egypt</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Octroi, or Town Tax</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;On (Heliopolis)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Orgies, Pious</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Orient, The Steamship (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; a Magnificent Steamship</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Orphans, Venerable</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page224">224</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Palmerston, Lord, thwarts Lesseps</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page246">246</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Palms, Oranges, and Lemons</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Patriarchal Group, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page197">197</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pebbles as Mementoes of Tel-el-Kebir</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page243">243</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Peep, A (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Penny, New, Refused</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page185">185</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;People, Vast Numbers with Nothing to
+do</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page185">185</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Perim, Island of, how acquired</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page239">239</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pious Orgies</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page210">210</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Police, The, Armed with Long Spikes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Port Sa&iuml;d</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; a Dreadful Place to Live in</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page278"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 278</span>&mdash; Harbour</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page231">231</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Lighthouse</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page231">231</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Railway wanted to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page232">232</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Power vested in Military Party</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Prayers in the Desert (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Predictions, Ill-founded</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page249">249</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;President, The, of Red Ribbon Army</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page235">235</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pyramid, Ascending the Great
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page196">196</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The great Step</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The Oldest</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pyramids, Road to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page187">187</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, First View of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page187">187</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Quarantine</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page268">268</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ramleh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page263">263</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ramses II, Statue of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page202">202</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ras-el-Tin</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page261">261</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Red Tape</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Ribbon Army</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page233">233</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rendezvous of Mecca Pilgrims</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Revoir, Au (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page225">225</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Riot and Massacre of Europeans</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page257">257</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rotten Row of Cairo, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Runners or Sa&iuml;s, The
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sabbath, the Mohammedan</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Safes, obviously of English
+Manufacture</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page191">191</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sa&iuml;s, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sacred Bull, Burying-place of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sakkara, To</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sand, A good Preservative</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page205">205</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sarcophagus, A huge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;School, An Arab, in Syria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page211">211</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Interrupted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page189">189</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Schoolmaster&rsquo;s, A,
+Disappointment</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page211">211</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Schoolmaster, The, Abroad
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page189">189</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The, asks for Backsheesh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page190">190</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Schools, Miss Whateley&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page211">211</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sculpture, Life-like</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Selim, Sultan</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Serapeum, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page204">204</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Seymour, Admiral, Opens Fire on
+Forts</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page258">258</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shalouf</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shave, A, and a Wash (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page199">199</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page199">199</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ship of the Desert, A Wrecked</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page223">223</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shoeblacks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shops Tiny</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shubra Avenue, In (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page214">214</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page212">212</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Simon Stylites</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Soldier, British, in Egypt</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page242">242</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page279"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 279</span>Soldiers, English, quite at home</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; glad to have Newspapers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sphinx, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page199">199</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Spider, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page233">233</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page234">234</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page235">235</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Spider&rsquo;s Web, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page234">234</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Statue, A, Four Thousand Years old</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Stick, The Heaven-sent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page198">198</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Story-teller, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page222">222</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Storytellers, Professional, at Cairo</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page188">188</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Strabo, on the Serapeum</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page203">203</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Street in B&ucirc;lak (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page219">219</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Streets of Suez Narrow</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Suez</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page241">241</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Arrive off</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Suez Canal, A new Canal wanted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page252">252</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; British Traffic through</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Cost of Constructing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Does not silt up</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page249">249</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Embankments of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Erroneous Impressions</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page249">249</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Festivities on Opening</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; First Undertaken by Pharaoh
+Necho</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; French Officials inferior in
+capacity</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; French short-sighted in Business
+Matters</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page252">252</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; In the (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page226">226</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Lesseps&rsquo; Monopoly</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page252">252</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Lesseps, M. de</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Mercantile Importance of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page247">247</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Necessity of increased
+accommodation</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Operations begun</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page246">246</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Palmerston, Lord, Obstinacy
+of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Restrictions Absurd</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page251">251</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Ships not allowed to move after
+Sun-down</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page251">251</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Sinuosities of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page249">249</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Steamers under perfect
+control</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Suggestion, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page253">253</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; How to deal with Profit</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page253">253</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page244">244</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Suez Hotel</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page242">242</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Streets of, Narrow</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sultan, Selim</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tel-el-Kebir</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page242">242</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page243">243</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Temple, Underground</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tih, The Tomb of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page205">205</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Timsah, Lake, Lord Wolseley&rsquo;s base
+of operations</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page248">248</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tomb of Tih (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page205">205</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tombs of the Khalifs (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Torture, A Novel Instrument of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page220">220</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Town Tax, The, or the Octroi</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page216">216</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page280"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 280</span>Treasures, Buried</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tree, The Virgin&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Umbrellas, A New Use for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Villages, Dreadful Mud</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page207">207</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Virgin&rsquo;s Tree, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page218">218</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wash, A, and a Shave (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page199">199</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page201">201</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wash Basin, An Impromptu</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page229">229</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Washing Hands, A Primitive Mode of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page199">199</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Water-carriers (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Weigher for the Trade</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page192">192</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Whateley&rsquo;s, Miss, Schools</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page211">211</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;What lack ye?</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page226">226</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wild Fowl Shooting, Good</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page230">230</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Words which Broke no Bones</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Zagazig</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page187">187</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Equator, Heat at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Faces too Dark to be Seen</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Falmouth</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Beach and Sands</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Burial-place (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cockney Sportsman</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Der Dichter Spricht</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Epping Forest</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hotel (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Land of Snakes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Magpies</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;River Esk</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Stoney Creek</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fernshaw</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hard Fare</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pioneering</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fiji Children ask for More</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Islands</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Native of (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fingal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fire Brigade Practice</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Flying Fish</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Free Trade</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gambling on Board Ship</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Golden Gate, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gum Trees, A Forest of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash; (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Habits of Islanders acquired</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Healesville</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A Soafler</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hotel Accommodation</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Remedy, a Sovereign</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hobart Town</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fern Tree Valley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Harvest in February</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page281"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 281</span>Jericho to Jerusalem, via Bagdad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;New Norfolk</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Homeward Bound</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Honolulu, Arrival at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baby Sold for a Dollar</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Breakfast ordered Overnight</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Brownie, Quite a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chairs or Seats usually absent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Children described</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Country very Poor</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dragon-flies, numerous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dressmaking not a difficult Art</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Faces too Dark to be Seen</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fire-flies</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Flowers of the most brilliant
+colours</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Grass green and beautiful</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hawaiian Islands, King of, Landlord of Hotel</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Healthiness of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Heathen Chinee, his Tricks not in
+Vain</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hotel</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Houses made chiefly of Rushes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Islanders <i>en f&egrave;te</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Letters, Glad to be Rid of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Library</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Museum</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Natives Dressed in Splendid Colours</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Parliament House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Passenger Overboard</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Perfume of Tropical Flowers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pilots Decline to go out for Vessels</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Race fast dying out</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ruth, the King&rsquo;s Sister
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Servants gone Home</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Squatting on Ground Prevailing
+Custom</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Supper not to be had</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Temperature of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Vegetation of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Village, Native</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Villas Pretty and Numerous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Waiters Celestial</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Water, Thoughts when Under</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Women&rsquo;s Clothing, Scanty</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Women Stately Looking</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Honolulu, Hotel at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Horse, Burying the Dead (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hotel Experiences</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>I guess the seat is dry now</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Irish Bulls, where manufactured</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Islanders <i>en f&egrave;te</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Jefferson Brick, Junior</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page282"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+282</span>Jerra Jerra</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Kandavu</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Knife Trick, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Life on Board Ship (see Ship&mdash;Life on Board)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span>&ndash;<span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lyre Bird, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Launceston</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bees in Mourning</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cicadas</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cora Linn</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pomona&rsquo;s Temple</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Snakes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tamar River</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tasmanian Hospitality</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tonsorial Palace</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tree Locusts</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Marysville</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Stephenson Falls</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Meal, a good square one preferred on Shore</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Melbourne (<i>see also</i> Victoria)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Berry Ministry, the</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Black Death at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Black Spur Mountains</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Building Trade at, Depressed,
+Results</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bush, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Description of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Education</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page42">42</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exhibition at, why decided on</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Happy Land</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hobson&rsquo;s Bay</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hot Winds</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Natural History Museum</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page42">42</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Old Debts, a New Way to Pay</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Overland from Sydney</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Parliamentary Procedure</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Parliament, Houses of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Payment of Members of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Revisited</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Roads</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sanitary Arrangements, Defective</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Stage Coaches</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Streets wide and long</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tall and Fat a street sweeper</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tramways opposed by Cabmen</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Vineyards</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Yarra Yarra River</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mister</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Moighty Dry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Native Dish called Poi</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page283"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+283</span>New South Wales (see also Sydney)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Acres Many, Men Few</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Agricultural Machinery, Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Artisans Attracted from Victoria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Customs Revenue, Increase of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Employment Abundant</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exports, Increase of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free Trade Colony</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hudson Bros, Limited</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Immigration Larger than in Victoria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Imports, Increase of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Imports in 1782 and 1881</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Industry, A Native, Created</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Labour, Increasing Demand for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Machinery, Agricultural and Mining,
+Imports of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Mining, Demand for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Manufacturing Concern, Largest in
+Colony</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Men Few, Acres Many</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mining Machinery, Imports of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Machinery, Perfection of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Policy Opposite to that of Victoria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Population Attracted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Constantly Increasing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Increase of, in Ten Years</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Room for More</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Prosperity, Evidences of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Railway System, Vast and Expanding</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sawmills, Steam, at Sydney</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shipping</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Development of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; During last Thirty Years</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Repairing Yards Removed from
+Victoria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Timber, Native Better than Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Trade, Import and Export</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Victoria Contrasted with</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Oatlands</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Gaol</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Pacific Ocean belies its Name</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Parson, The, Quite at Sea</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A Man of Peace now</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Colonists&rsquo; complain of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Congregation, Secures a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Drain Pipes, how they are made</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mixes his Degrees</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sermon on Geology</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Water Pumped from a Mine Twelve Miles
+Deep</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Passenger, Death of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; falls Overboard</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Personal Difficulties</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Favour, As a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Pilots Decline to go out for Vessels</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page284"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+284</span>Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Salt Water good for the &ldquo;Spin-ial Orgins&rdquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>San Francisco</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baggage Master</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Business Activity</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Men, Sharp</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Carriages, Hackney</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Character, Bad Better than None</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chinaman, Am claimed as a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chinese Close Shavers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chinese Pigtails (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Joss Houses Visited</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Quarter Full of Interest</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Numerous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Quarter Explored at Night</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Theatre Visited</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Washer<i>men</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Wedding</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Civilisation and Barbarism Face to
+Face</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Climate Delightful</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Correspondent, A Familiar</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Darwin would have been Delighted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dodge, A Favourite</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Earning a Cent anyhow</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;English Fittings</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Entrance to Harbour Sighted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fire Brigades</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Flats and Sharps</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Golden Gate, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Governor, Qualifications for a State</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Habit, The National</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hackney Carriages</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Heat and Dust Terrible</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I Guess you are Going to England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Jarrett, A. J. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;John Chinaman</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Knife and Fork, only One at Meals</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lady Doctors Numerous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Luggage, Arrangements for, Excellent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Min-ne, Little</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mister, Last of (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;My Wife is Dead</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pacific Seal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Palace Hotel</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Police, Messenger from Chief of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sea-lions</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Seal Rocks (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Starching, a Fine Art</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Streets, Handsome</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tang-y, A Chinese City</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tang-ye, Proof of Celestial Origin</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page285"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 285</span>Temperature</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tobacco Chewing and its Consequences</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tramways</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Volunteers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Yosemite Valley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>San Francisco, Voyage to</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sharks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; don&rsquo;t like Dark Skins</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ship-Life on board</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Albatross</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bay of Biscay, Nor&rsquo;-wester in</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bazaar</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Betting</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blatant Beast, The, fires a Revolver</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Burying the Dead Horse</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cabin&rsquo;d, Cribb&rsquo;d,
+Confin&rsquo;d</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cape Otway</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Captain not so fond of Progress as the
+Passengers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Captains, why they are Tories</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cat Chase</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Collisions at Sea</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Colonial Statesman beaten but not
+vanquished</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Concerts and Recitations</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Congregation, How to Secure a</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Consumptive Patients sent too late</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cross-signalling</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Danite Band, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Death and Burial at Sea</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dolphins</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dolphin, the &ldquo;Classic&rdquo;
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dramatic Performance</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exhibition, Fine Art</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fellow-passengers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;First Night on Board</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Flying Fish</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Gale off Cape Leeuwin</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Genial Captain (<i>illus</i>)
+advantageous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;German Lady, old but lively</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hobson&rsquo;s Bay</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Illness of Passengers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Incident in Cornwall recalled</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ixion goes mad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Letters Home</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Life Friendships formed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Love your Enemies</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Melbourne, Arrive at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Music not always harmonious</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Night-walkers a nuisance</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nor&rsquo;-wester in the Bay of
+Biscay</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Parson Mixes his Degrees</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page286"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 286</span>Pilot Fish</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Passengers paying their Footing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; divided into Sets</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page3">3</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Peal of Hand-bells</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Portuguese Man-of-War</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Private Convict System</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Quoits a selfish Game</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rolling Forties</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Scarlet Lady</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sea-sickness, Cure for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page6">6</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sermon on Geology</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sharks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ship in full Sail</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Short and Stout</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Soup too Salt</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sports (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Spurgeon&rsquo;s Evangelist</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Squall near Madeira</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Steward&rsquo;s Life a hard one</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tall and Fat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tristan d&rsquo;Acunha</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tropical Heat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tropical Phosphorescence</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Newspaper</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Water Pumped from Twelve Miles Deep</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wild Spirits carry on</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Whale</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ship&rsquo;s Doctors</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Snakes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Spurgeon&rsquo;s Evangelist</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Steward, A Negro</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>St Mary&rsquo;s (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Supper, Too late for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sunday at the Fiji Islands</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sydney (<i>see also</i> New South Wales)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ants</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bail-up</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bathurst</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blue Mountains</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Botanical Gardens</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page82">82</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bullock Team on Blue Mountains
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bush Hut (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bushrangers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cottage, Mount Victoria
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Education Act, The, Amended</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Excise Act</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Falls, The Weatherboard
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Great Goat Sucker, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Harbour (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hartley Vale, Descent to
+(<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page287"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 287</span>Harvest on New Year&rsquo;s Day</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hotels, Primitive</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Laughing Jackass, The (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lithgow</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Manufacturing Concern, Largest in
+Colony</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Oysters</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; on Trees</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Political Situation</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Saw Mills, Steam</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sheep Runs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Southerly Buster, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sydney to Melbourne Overland</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Albury</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ants</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Axles, Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bush, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Carriage Furniture, Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Drought of Ten Months&rsquo;
+duration</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Endurance of Post-horses</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Euroa</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free Trade at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Germanton</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hay, Price of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hudson Brothers (Limited)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Industry, A Native, Created</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Jerra Jerra</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Kelly&rsquo;s Exploits at Euroa</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Magpies, Large</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Railway Rolling Stock Manufacturers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rain, Downpour of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;River Murray</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Royal Mail</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sheep, Loss of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shipping during last thirty years</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sighing for Old England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Snakes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Springs, Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Timber, Native Better than Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tommy, a youthful Driver</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Town, An Up-country (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Vineyards</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wagga Wagga</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wheels, Imported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wodonga</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sydney to San Francisco</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tasmania</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Farms large in size</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Good Roads</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hawkers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mount Wellington (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page288"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 288</span>River Derwent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Rabbit and the Thistle</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Teneriffe (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Travelling by Rail and Ship compared</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tree Ferns</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tristan d&rsquo;Acunha, Island of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tropical Heat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page8">8</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Phosphorescence</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tropics, In the (<i>illus</i>)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Turtles</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>United States</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Americans would Become our
+Competitors</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Artisans (American) not Better Off than
+British</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Wages and Holidays</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baggage Arrangements Convenient</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Described</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Books Dear</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cabmen Disgusted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cadgers, In England such Men would be
+Called</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Calicoes Consigned to England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Charges Simply Monstrous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Children without Shoes and Stockings</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Climate more Trying than that of
+England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; of America Exhausting</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Competition Become Exceedingly
+Fierce</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Considerably Sold</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Corruption among Officials</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cotton Mill Operatives from Germany,
+etc.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dear America</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dinner, Charge for a Plain</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Engine, The Largest, in the World</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page172">172</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exhibition, The Centennial,
+Philadelphia</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exports Limited by Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Factory Operatives&rsquo; Wages Lower
+than in Lancashire</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fair Trade Agitation</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fortunes, Colossal, Built up under
+Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Freedom for Tongue and Foot</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free Trade and Wages</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; not an Unmixed Blessing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; under, Wider Distribution of
+Material Comfort</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Holidays Fewer than in England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hours of Labour Longer than in
+England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Longer than in Lancashire</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Improvements (so-called) in
+Manufactures</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page172">172</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Labour, Honest, Avoided</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Liquor Traffic Presents Many
+Difficulties</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Living, Cost of, Higher than in
+England</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Loafers Numerous</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page289"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 289</span>Negro Labour does not Flood the
+Markets</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Newspaper Inferior and Dear</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;New York</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Officials, Corruption among</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Over-production</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Philadelphia</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Protection, An Argument for</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; and Wages</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Doomed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Wages Steadily Declining
+under</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Railway Charges Moderate</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Rich, but Honest</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Slave Experiences</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Something Hot</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Steamboat Charges Moderate</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Sunday Traffic Perplexing</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Teetotal Lecture, A Regular</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Temperance Lecture, The First, they had
+Heard</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tools, Inferior</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page172">172</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wages Higher, but Balanced by Extra Cost
+of Living</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Higher, not a Full
+Equivalent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Lower than in 1860</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Steadily Declining under
+Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; with Free Trade and
+Protection</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Victoria (<i>see also</i> Melbourne)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Agricultural Industries not
+Protected</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Heavily Taxed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Artisans Attracted to New South
+Wales</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Books, Can Produce Her Own</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cabby Overrides the Tramway</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Country Districts Sparsely Populated</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Customs, Revenue, Stationary</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Depression of Building Trade at
+Melbourne</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dog Subsisting on His Own Tail</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Duty on Imports Demanded</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exhibition at Melbourne why Decided
+on</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Exports, Increase of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Fiscal Policy, Vicious</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Food, Taxation of, not Permitted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free Trade&mdash;the <i>Argus</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; for Raw Materials</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Government, Quite Right to Cheat the</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Immigration, Grants in Aid of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Imported Manufactures Heavily Taxed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Imports, Increase of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Laws, Evasion of, by Protectionists</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Locomotives Costly</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Required</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Manufacturer&rsquo;s Profit not quite
+enough</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a name="page290"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 290</span>Manufacturers Require Larger
+Field</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Minerals, Home Demand for, Small</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Mainly Exported</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mining Industries not Protected</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Machinery Heavily Taxed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Native Industry, In Interests of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Natural Resources Neglected</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;New South Wales, Contrasted with</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Population Concentrated in Large
+Towns</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Increase of, in Ten Years</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; (Manufacturing) Growing Faster
+than its Customers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; not Retained</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Larger, a Great Want</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Room for Larger</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Prices sufficiently High</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Printed Books should be more Heavily
+Taxed</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Printing Materials, Suggestion to
+Tax</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Protected Industries for a Limited
+Time</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Manufacturers not Happy</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Protection Demanded by Manufacturers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; Effect on Money</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash; in its most Pronounced Form</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Protectionist Newspapers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Railway Stores</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shipping&mdash;Repairing Yards Removed
+to New South Wales</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tramways Opposed by Cabmen</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tariff Revision Committee</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Working Classes Jealous of
+Competition</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Work, Legislature Expected to Supply</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Workpeople very Independent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Voyage, Author&rsquo;s First, to Australia</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page5">5</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Waterspout</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Water, Thoughts when Under</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>White Squall, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Yankee Journalist described</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Yankee&rsquo;s Inquiry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2>NOTES.</h2>
+<p><a name="footnote226"></a><a href="#citation226"
+class="footnote">[226]</a>&nbsp; In a former chapter I gave an
+account of a voyage to Australia by way of the Cape of Good
+Hope.&nbsp; On a subsequent visit to the Colonies I went by the
+Canal route, returning through Egypt overland.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote259a"></a><a href="#citation259a"
+class="footnote">[259a]</a>&nbsp; It is understood that the
+Khedive&rsquo;s English financial adviser is about to take in
+hand the case of the Fellaheen versus the Usurers.&nbsp; It may
+aid him to know how a similar state of things in a neighbouring
+country was dealt with about 2000 years ago.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Lucullus, Roman general, in his wars
+against Mithridates, having occupied many cities in Asia which
+had long been a prey to tax-farmers and usurers, undertook to
+relieve the people from the extreme misery to which they had been
+reduced, and set about redeeming the properties given as security
+to the rapacious money-lenders.&nbsp; He first greatly reduced
+the rate of interest; secondly, where the interest exceeded the
+principal he struck it off.&nbsp; He then ordered that the
+creditor should receive the fourth part of the debtor&rsquo;s
+income, but if in making his claim any creditor had added the
+interest to the principal, it was utterly disallowed.&nbsp; By
+these means, in the, space of four years, all debts were paid,
+and the lands returned to the rightful
+owners.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Plutarch&rsquo;s Lives</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="footnote259b"></a><a href="#citation259b"
+class="footnote">[259b]</a>&nbsp; Report of Mr. Villiers Stuart,
+M.P., to Lord Dufferin on &ldquo;The Social and Economical
+Condition of the People.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN
+AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***</p>
+<pre>
+
+
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+</pre></body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Reminiscences of Travel in Australia,
+America, and Egypt, by Richard Tangye
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt
+
+
+Author: Richard Tangye
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2012  [eBook #41639]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN
+AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***
+
+
+credit
+
+
+
+This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
+
+                 [Picture: Frontispiece. Richard Tangye]
+
+
+
+
+
+                              REMINISCENCES
+                                    OF
+                                  TRAVEL
+                                    IN
+                      AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT.
+
+
+                           [Picture: Vignette]
+
+                                    BY
+                             RICHARD TANGYE.
+
+                 _WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. C. MOUNTFORT_.
+
+                                 London:
+               SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON.
+                   CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
+
+                                  1883.
+
+                         (_All rights reserved_.)
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                PRINTED BY
+
+                      WRIGHT, DAIN, PEYTON, AND CO.,
+
+                     AT THE HERALD PRESS, BIRMINGHAM.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Having made several voyages to Australia, I have often been asked how I
+managed to relieve the monotony of so long a period on the water.  I have
+never felt this monotony, simply because on each occasion I have set
+myself something to do.
+
+In Mr. Trevelyan's "Life of Lord Macaulay" it is stated that when
+returning from India, that statesman set himself the task of mastering
+the German language, and accomplished it during the voyage.  I did not
+
+attempt anything so ambitious, but during my last voyage I occupied the
+time in writing the following pages; and as they were written under many
+difficulties, I feel I may confidently rely upon the indulgence of those
+who may do me the honour of reading them.
+
+                                                                     R. T.
+
+_Gilbertstone_, _1883_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                  [Picture: The Rabbit and the Thistle]
+
+                                                                 PAGE.
+CHAPTER I.--_At Sea_:--Early Troubles--Cabin'd, Cribb'd,             2
+Confin'd--Travelling Companions--"Ordered Abroad by the
+Doctor"--"In the Bay o' Biscay O"--Ship Stewards--Racing
+under Difficulties--A Selfish Amusement--Musical
+Discords--The Ship's Newspaper--Our Ship goes too
+Fast--Why Ship Captains are Tories--Ixion goes
+Mad--Burial at Sea--The Parson "quite at Sea"--A
+Congregation Guaranteed--Look Out for Sharks!--"Let the
+Soup pass, Sir"--The "Scarlet Lady."
+CHAPTER II.--_At Sea_:--"Working off the Dead                       21
+Horse"--"Poor Old Man!"--"May your Shadow never Grow
+Less!"--The "Blatant Beast"--The "Generous" Gambler--A
+Fiery Celt--The "Classic" Dolphin--"Get your Letters
+Ready"--"A Man of Peace now"--Mixing his Degrees--Good
+enough for the Colonies!--"Now Fridolin was a Pious
+Youth"--A Bootless Errand--Cross Signals--Tristan
+d'Acunha--A Parson Wanted--"The Rolling Forties"--A Hot
+January Morning.
+CHAPTER III.--_In Victoria_:--The Black Death in                    40
+Melbourne--Melbourne--Education--A Caustic Smile--"All
+Work and no Play"--"A New Way to Pay Old Debts"--"Happy
+Land" in Victoria--"Hush! prohibited"--An Opening for
+"Gentlemen"--"Hallelujah Claim"--The Black Spur--A
+"Soafler"--Comforting the Widow--Hard
+Fare--Pioneering--Lovely Marysville--The Five Deadly
+Poisons--Back to Melbourne.
+CHAPTER IV.--_In Tasmania_:--Cologn-ial                             60
+Smells--Launceston--A Tonsorial Palace--Harvest in
+February--The Land of Snakes--Der Dichter spricht--"The
+Dangers of the Seas"--"Sweet Vale of Avoca"--A Charming
+Village--Where's Falmouth?--A Lonely Burying-place--A
+Narrow Escape--Snakes!--"Scotched, but not
+Killed"--"Acres many, People few"--The Rabbit and the
+Thistle--Breaking the Pledge--Hobart the
+Beautiful--Jericho to Jerusalem via Bagdad--Farewell,
+Tasmania.
+CHAPTER V.--_In New South Wales_:--Off to Sydney--"What             80
+d'ye think of our Harbour?"--A "Southerly
+Buster"--Oysters on Trees--A rather particular
+Couple--Mount Victoria--A Tremendous Leap--A wicked
+Parrot--"Bail up"--The Laughing Jackass--Let Sleeping
+Bull-dogs Lie--An Election in Sydney--Beer and
+Bible--Through Wagga-Wagga--In the
+Bush--Track-making--Sighing for Old
+England--"Tommy"--Albury and Wodonga, a contrast--The
+Bush-rangers.
+CHAPTER VI.--_In Australia_:--Victoria, Protection--The            101
+Dog subsisting on its own Tail--Cabby over-rides the
+Tramway--His Profit was not "quite enough"--Protection
+with a Vengeance--"Quite right to Cheat the
+Government"--Free Trade, New South Wales--A Genuine
+"Native Industry"--How Population is attracted--A
+Prosperous Colony--Demand for Agricultural
+Labourers--"Young Australia."
+CHAPTER VII.--_On the Pacific_:--Homeward Bound--Ten               113
+Months' Drought--Auckland--Fiji--Kandavu Harbour--A
+Fearful Voice--Sharks and Dark Skins--Dropping a Day--A
+Colonial Doctor--Man Overboard--Honolulu--A Square
+Meal--Dressmaking in Honolulu--A "Brownie"--"Yes, for a
+Dollar"--A Plague of Centipedes--A Bilious
+"Down-Easter"--Jefferson Brick, Junior--"Mister"--"A
+Personal Favour!"--Through "The Golden Gate"--Earning a
+Cent anyway.
+CHAPTER VIII.--_In America_:--San Francisco--The Palace            135
+Hotel--Chinese Washermen--The National Habit--Flats and
+Sharps--Qualifications for a State Governor--John
+Chinaman in California--The Missing Link--Little Min-ne,
+a Chinese Bride--Am claimed as a Chinaman--Pacific
+Sea-Lions--The last of "Mister"--Across America--A
+Magnificent Country--The Noble Red Man--A Long Arm and
+Quick Eye--John Bright--A Tremendous Crash--The Trapper's
+Story--How Taurus "Meets the Train"--The Alkali
+Plains--Salt Lake City--"I guess I'll take your
+Gold"--Rock Groups--"No, Sah!" said Sambo.
+CHAPTER IX.--_In America_:--"Eat and be                            160
+satisfied"--Chicago--Niagara--Ruthless Desecration--"He
+must raise his Salary"--The "American Language"--The
+Hudson--The Celestial Harmonies--A Dealer in
+Justice--"Rich, but Honest"--"Dear" America--Baggage
+Arrangements--Philadelphia--The Centennial Exhibition--An
+Argument for Protection--Artisans' Wages and
+Holidays--Protection doomed--Cadgers--Freedom, for Tongue
+and Foot--Something hot!
+CHAPTER X.--_In Egypt_:--Suez--Hassan--Donkeys for                 181
+Nine--The Languishing Nobleman--Backsheesh--Painting the
+Lily--Forced Labour, a painful Sight--Agriculture _a la_
+Adam--School Interrupted--In the Bazaars--The
+Jewellers--A Bridal Party--Sultan Hassan--Familiar
+Devils--Up the Great Pyramid--The Heaven-sent Stick--A
+Wash and a Shave--To Sakkara--A Great City--At
+Sakkara--Tomb of the Sacred Bulls--The Tomb of a High
+Priest--A Graphic Biograph--The Eternal Backsheesh--A
+Camelcade.
+CHAPTER XI.--_In Egypt_:--Pious Orgies--Howlers and                209
+Dancers--Miss Whateley's Schools--"She only steals the
+Eggs now!"--In Shubra Avenue--A Useful Animal--A Morning
+Ride--Sultan Selim--"Sir, I am a Christian"--A Holy
+Fakir--A Statue four thousand years
+old--Irrigation--Venerable Orphans--Home to Vote.
+CHAPTER XII.--_In Egypt_;--Port                                    226
+Said--Hawkers--Bohemiennes--Marines--The last Unmarried
+Lady--The Harbour--A discerning young Arab--The Red
+Ribbon Army--"Once a Member, always a Member"--The
+Spider--"One must be civ-il!"--Our Blue Jackets.
+CHAPTER XIII.--_The Suez Canal_:--Arabi in Exile--A 'cute          238
+Governor--The French outwitted--"Thomas Cook and Son"--A
+Black-Guard--Tel-el-Kebir--The Land of Goshen--The Suez
+Canal--Lord Palmerston--Immense Traffic--Lake
+Timsah--Predictions--Red Tape--Absurd
+Restrictions--Lesseps' Position--A Suggestion--The Dual
+Control--Arabi Bey--Mutinous Conduct--Irregular
+Court-Martial--How Arabi recruited his Army--"L'etat
+c'est moi."
+CHAPTER XIV.--_Alexandria_:--Ras-el-Tin--The Forts--A              268
+Courageous Merchant--Alexandria in Ruins--Alexandria not
+Bombarded--Anglo-Indians--Brindisi--Quarantine.
+INDEX.                                                             269
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                                                            PAGE
+PORTRAIT                                            Frontispiece
+VIGNETTE                                                   Title
+RABBIT AND THISTLE                                           vii
+TERRA FIRMA                                                    1
+TENERIFFE                                                      7
+THE SPORTS                                                     8
+THE CAPTAIN                                                   11
+ASCENSION                                                     17
+CROSSING THE LINE.  WHY, DON'T YOU SEE IT?                    19
+THE BABY HIPPOPOTAMUS AT PLAY                                 21
+BURYING THE DEAD HORSE                                        23
+THE CLASSIC DOLPHIN                                           28
+A COLONIAL PARSON                                             31
+IN THE TROPICS                                                40
+GOLD MINE                                                     49
+A BIG TREE                                                    52
+ON THE BLACK SPUR                                             56
+THE LYRE BIRD                                                 59
+THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES--A POEM                               64
+AVOCA                                                         67
+ST. MARY'S                                                    68
+FALMOUTH HOTEL                                                69
+BURIAL PLACE                                                  70
+SUMMIT OF MOUNT WELLINGTON                                    76
+VIEW IN HOBART GARDENS                                        77
+OUR WAITER                                                    79
+SYDNEY HARBOUR                                                80
+COTTAGE AT MOUNT VICTORIA                                     86
+WEATHERBOARD FALLS                                            87
+DESCENT TO HARTLEY VALE                                       88
+THE LAUGHING JACKASS                                          90
+THE AUTHOR SKETCHING                                          91
+A BULLOCK-TEAM                                                94
+A BUSH HUT                                                    95
+AN UP-COUNTRY TOWN                                            98
+THE PLATYPUS                                                 112
+A FIJIAN                                                     117
+THE KING'S SISTER                                            126
+THE CHINAMAN                                                 142
+LITTLE MIN-NE                                                143
+SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO                                    145
+THE LAST OF "MISTER"                                         146
+THE EUCALYPTUS                                               148
+SALT LAKE                                                    155
+MONUMENT ROCK                                                158
+THE DEVIL'S SLIDE                                            159
+UNDER THE FALLS, NIAGARA                                     163
+THE PALLISADES, HUDSON RIVER                                 166
+JOHN SCALES, JUSTICE OF THE PEACE                            168
+A DRAGOMAN                                                   182
+A DONKEY BOY                                                 184
+THE "ORIENT"                                                 186
+THE SCHOOLMASTER "ABROAD"                                    189
+A "PEEP"                                                     190
+"BERY CHEAP, SAH!"                                           191
+THE MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN                                  193
+ASCENDING THE GREAT PYRAMID                                  196
+VIEW ON THE NILE                                             198
+THE SPHINX                                                   199
+A WASH AND A SHAVE                                           201
+THE SERAPEUM, SAKKARA                                        204
+BAS-RELIEF, TOMB OF TIH                                      206
+A CAMELCADE                                                  208
+PRAYERS IN THE DESERT                                        209
+A RUNNER, OR SAIS                                            212
+IN SHUBRA AVENUE                                             214
+WATER CARRIERS                                               215
+THE TOMBS OF THE KHALIFS                                     216
+A STREET IN BULAK                                            219
+A HOLY FAKIR                                                 222
+A WRECKED SHIP OF THE DESERT                                 223
+AU REVOIR!                                                   225
+IN THE SUEZ CANAL                                            226
+A FEATHER MERCHANT                                           227
+CETEWAYO DISGUISED AS A GENTLEMAN                            236
+ADENESE WOMEN                                                240
+A FAMILIAR FACE                                              261
+THE END                                                      268
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+                          [Picture: Terra Firma]
+
+It is commonly supposed by landsmen that the perils of ocean travelling
+are much greater than those encountered upon land.  For my own part, I
+believe that, once on the open sea, there is no pleasanter or safer mode
+of locomotion than is to be found in a well-appointed sailing ship or
+steamer.  I certainly was in much greater danger of being drowned while
+travelling on the railway between Bristol and Plymouth upon one occasion
+than I have ever known myself to be while on board ship. The autumn had
+been exceedingly wet, and the low-lying districts in Somersetshire had
+become flooded, causing the railway to be completely submerged for a
+distance of about three miles.  The water reached to the floors of the
+railway carriages, while the locomotive in its progress made a great wave
+in front of the train.  The wheels of the locomotive were 8ft. 10in. in
+height, and the fire-box was 6ft. above the ground.  Boats accompanied
+the train on either side during its passage through the water.  Certainly
+I have never felt in so much danger in the 60,000 miles of ocean
+travelling which I have had since then.  Not that there are no dangers to
+be met with on the water, as I found to my alarm before I had fairly
+commenced my last voyage.
+
+Our vessel lay three miles off the Hoe, at Plymouth, and we had engaged a
+large sailing boat to take us on board.  When we had got half way to the
+ship, and had lost the shelter of the land, a fierce squall struck the
+sail and turned the boat over on its side, throwing us into a confused
+heap on its bottom.  The boatman tried to lower the sail, but having tied
+it in a fast knot he could not do so, and had no means of cutting the
+rope.  The rain came down pitilessly all the time, and the waves dashed
+over us, drenching us to the skin, darkness coming on in the meantime.
+For a few moments we almost gave ourselves up as lost, but fortunately
+the violence of the wind lessened, the boat righted itself, and we got
+alongside our ship, but were unable in the darkness and the rush of the
+water and the noise of the wind and rain to make ourselves heard.  My
+companion and I had to climb up the rope-ladder attached to the ship, and
+to scramble over its side as best we could, in the confusion altogether
+forgetting to take leave of our friends who were in the boat below, and
+who were lost to sight the instant we got on to the deck.
+
+On entering the saloon the contrast was very great.  The big ship riding
+at anchor was as steady as the land we had just left.  The saloon was
+brilliantly lighted; and the passengers who had joined the ship at
+Gravesend were sitting round the table engaged in various occupations;
+some were reading or writing, while others were playing at whist, or were
+engaged in conversation.  Being new arrivals, there was considerable
+curiosity to see which cabin we should call our own.
+
+To a man taking his first voyage the phrase "cabin'd, cribb'd, confin'd"
+is at once understood as he surveys the cabin, a portion of which is to
+be his home for a month or two.  The first feeling is that it will be
+impossible to bestow all his belongings in the limited space at his
+disposal, but before he has been long on board things settle down into
+their places, and he almost begins to wonder what he shall do with all
+the room.
+
+The first night on board ship is generally one of great confusion.  The
+passengers seem to be in everybody's way; but immediately after leaving
+port the baggage is stowed away, the purser allots the seats at table,
+and everything goes on with the greatest regularity.
+
+The passengers on board one of the great Australian ships form a perfect
+epitome of the great world ashore.  The line of division is sharply drawn
+between the various sets or cliques.  Many never condescend to notice
+numbers of their fellow-passengers during the whole voyage; but for the
+most part fraternisation becomes general after the first fortnight has
+passed.
+
+A three months' voyage often enables a man to form a juster appreciation
+of the character of his fellow-passengers than many years' residence in
+the same neighbourhood would do on shore; hence it often happens that
+life-friendships of the warmest kind are formed on board ship.  On
+steamers bound for the Colonies representatives of almost every class are
+to be found.  Judges returning to their duties after a holiday all too
+short; colonial statesmen with sufficient time on their hands to allow of
+their formulating a policy to meet every conceivable combination among
+their parliamentary opponents; and squatters and merchants returning to
+the Colonies to look after their property or their business.  These men
+are generally very much preoccupied, and their only anxiety appears to be
+to get as speedily as possible to their destination.
+
+Another class is composed of clergymen and professional men taking a
+holiday, and generally speaking with every sign of great enjoyment; while
+two other classes are largely represented--viz., invalids in search of
+health, and young ne'er-do-wells sent to the Colonies under the mistaken
+idea of their being more likely to reform in a new country.  The latter
+class is mainly composed of young fellows who have never been brought up
+to any trade or calling at home, and who, with their friends, seem to
+think that the Colonies are a sort of "Tom Tiddler's ground," where they
+can "pick up gold and silver."
+
+These youths are sent out by their friends as a last chance, under what
+is known as the "private convict system," and I believe that a very small
+proportion of them ever take a position of respectability after landing
+in the Colonies.  Nor is it to be wondered at, for on the principle of
+"birds of a feather," etc., these young men get together on the outward
+voyage, and all their previous vices become much intensified by the
+association.  On the other hand, many young men of good character, going
+out to the Colonies in search of employment, and showing by their conduct
+during the voyage that they are self-respecting, and consequently
+trustworthy, have secured good appointments from colonial merchants
+before leaving the ship.
+
+Those who take the voyage on account of impaired health mainly consist of
+men suffering from overwork, and invalids more or less affected with
+pulmonary disease.  In the case of the former a long voyage is the surest
+remedy; and for those in the earliest stage of consumption it is
+generally found to be efficacious; but it would be impossible to devise a
+more cruel fate for such as are thoroughly affected by that fell disease
+than to send them out on a long voyage.  The conditions are all against
+them; the draught in the saloon is always great, and there is a total
+absence of those little comforts and delicacies which consumptive
+patients so greatly need, and the lack of which is so sorely felt.
+Doctors who have never made a voyage little think to what a miserable
+fate they are dooming their consumptive patients when they order them to
+take a sea voyage.  In five cases out of six these patients are sent out
+too late, and the voyage only hastens their inevitable end, while, if
+they had only been sent in the earliest stages of the disease, they would
+almost certainly have been restored.
+
+I started on my first Australian voyage on a lovely day in the late
+autumn.  The sun was shining brilliantly, and as there was very little
+wind we fondly hoped we should cross the Bay of Biscay without having to
+go through the disagreeable experiences usually met with there; but our
+hopes were rudely dispelled when, after two days, having fairly got into
+the bay, we found a strong "nor'-wester" blowing, with heavy seas and
+torrents of rain.
+
+Our ship was a duplicate of the ill-fated "London," and the officers
+comforted us with the information that we were just on the spot where she
+had gone down a few years before.
+
+The wind and waves had been increasing in force during the day; but at
+four o'clock, just as we were sitting down to dinner, a heavy sea burst
+'tween decks with a great uproar, breaking through the doors leading from
+the main-deck to the saloon, swamping the nearest cabins, and completely
+scattering the dinner, dishes and all.
+
+The stewards had a busy time of it for the next two hours in mopping and
+baling the water out, and in preparing another dinner.  Many of us,
+however, preferred retiring to our berths, the weather in the meantime
+getting decidedly worse.  Presently another sea was shipped, deluging our
+cabin, amongst others, and leaving us in perfect darkness; while the
+noise of the sailors tramping overhead, the smashing of crockery, and the
+falling of blocks and ropes, the shouts of the officers, and the
+continual roar of the storm, effectually banished sleep for the night.  I
+gained, however, one valuable piece of information, for as a result of
+the storm I learned a certain cure for sea-sickness!  I had been quite
+ill before the final burst, but the excitement from this cured me
+instantly.
+
+During the night we travelled out of the storm into smoother water, and
+it was curious to note the effect of this improved state of affairs, and
+of the bright sunshine, in bringing fresh faces on deck.
+
+The life of a steward on board one of these ships is not an enviable one.
+He has to be up at work at four o'clock, washing and scrubbing the
+saloon; to wait at table four times a day; to make the beds, and attend
+to the cabins; and to be generally useful amongst the passengers, rarely
+finishing before ten o'clock at night.  Our steward was a very handy
+fellow.  He informed me he had a brother in New Zealand in practice as a
+doctor, who wanted him to settle there, but he preferred "a life on the
+ocean wave."  He strongly recommended us to bathe frequently in salt
+water, saying it "was good for the spin-ial orgins!"
+
+            [Picture: Teneriffe (from a sketch by J. Willis)]
+
+Eight days after leaving Plymouth we passed the Canary Islands, steaming
+between Teneriffe and Gomera.  The weather was delightful, and we had a
+fine view of the famous Peak, which rises apparently straight out of the
+sea to a height of 12,000 feet.  These islands form a province of Spain,
+and are volcanic in their origin.  The last eruption was in 1824.  The
+vegetable productions of the islands are very varied.  Palms and tropical
+plants grow near the sea; higher up cereals are grown; above, laurels;
+and still higher, pines and the white broom.  The islands also produce
+oranges, lemons, dates, sugar-cane, cotton, and silk.
+
+        [Picture: The "Sports" (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)]
+
+Soon after passing the Canaries the Tropics are entered; and some of us
+begin to feel, for the first time, what heat really is.  Awnings are
+fixed, and preparations are made for various kinds of amusements, amongst
+which the most popular are quoits, a run with the hounds, jumping in
+sacks by moonlight, racing in sacks, etc.
+
+The game of quoits is much in favour with those who can play it, but it
+is a most selfish affair, for half-a-dozen men monopolise the whole of
+one side of the deck--and that the best or upper side--and, beginning at
+ten in the morning, continue till the dinner hour.
+
+These are the day amusements.  In the evenings there are concerts,
+recitations, and occasionally theatrical performances.  Some passengers
+are of a studious turn, and divide their time between reading, writing,
+and walking, while others--notably young men from the Colonies--recline
+at ease during the day and become lively at night, often perambulating
+the decks with heavy heels till the small hours of the morning, to the
+great discomfort of those sleeping below.
+
+Our second-class fellow-passengers commenced the concert season by giving
+a very amusing entertainment in their saloon.  The first piece on the
+programme was an "overture by the band"--the band being represented by a
+single concertina.  The chairman, a jolly-looking old tar, tried three
+pieces, and broke down in amidst roars of laughter and calls for the
+chorus.  An "ancient buffer" sang "My Pretty Jane," and a few other
+sentimental things, with looks of fond affection.  Then came a solo by
+"Bones," and another sailor gave a song which recounted his many
+ailments.  He said he had had "brownchitis," "scarlatina," "concertina,"
+and "tightness in the chest."  Then a melancholy youth ground out
+something about his love for a "Little brown jug," calling frequently for
+a chorus, the whole ending with "God save the Queen."
+
+We had other concerts during the voyage, and it was noticeable that the
+peculiarity which is said to attend amateur performances on land was not
+absent with us, for our concerts were usually productive of anything but
+harmony--at any rate amongst the singers.  Those who were first invited
+to sing usually had colds, and those who were free from colds often
+declined because they were not invited first.  Even the singing of hymns
+at the evening service was more than once made the occasion of heated
+discussion.
+
+Another mode of occupying leisure hours on board ship as soon as the
+passengers have fairly settled down for the voyage is to start a
+newspaper.  A few of the passengers meet and choose an editor, and the
+general public are invited to send contributions to him.  At the outset
+promises of help are very abundant, but, as a matter of fact, the work
+has to be done by a very few persons.  The paper appears weekly, in
+manuscript, and is usually read aloud by the editor after dinner on the
+day of issue.
+
+Sometimes it is agreed to have the paper printed on reaching the Colony,
+and when that is determined upon one or two individuals undertake the
+duty of passing it through the press, and of forwarding it to the various
+subscribers.  As a rule the same persons rarely undertake the duty twice,
+for it is a very arduous and oft-times thankless task.
+
+Some of the more cautious subscribers object to paying in advance, or
+require guarantees for due delivery and for the proper performance of the
+work.  On one occasion one of my companions undertook the work of
+preparing the paper for the press, and correcting the proofs; it took him
+nearly three weeks to do so, and I am sure he will never undertake a
+similar task.  The colonial printer gave him a great deal of trouble,
+persisting in ignoring his corrections, and in "improving the text" by
+altering it according to his own ideas.  One peculiarity of amateur
+authorship came out into strong relief in the printing of this paper--the
+number of quotations and of inverted commas was so great that our
+printer's stock was quite exhausted, and he had to send all round the
+city to borrow a sufficient supply.
+
+         [Picture: The Captain (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)]
+
+In a three months' voyage the advantage of having a genial captain is
+obvious, and in this respect we were most fortunate, for it was
+impossible for anyone to be kinder or more considerate.  Our captain
+entered heartily into all our amusements and schemes for the relief of
+the monotony of the voyage, and was ably seconded in his efforts by his
+amiable wife.
+
+Sometimes it did appear to some of the more eager and impatient of the
+passengers that the captain was fonder of being on the water than they
+were; for he had a great regard for his sails, and whenever the wind
+developed unusual energy had no hesitation in diminishing the rate of our
+progress by shortening sail.  The first officer, perhaps with the
+rashness of youth, would crowd all sail during his watch before
+breakfast, but when the captain made his appearance an order to "Take in
+those sails" would be promptly addressed to the chief.
+
+Our captain had made the voyage more than twenty times, and had very
+carefully studied and noted the meteorological signs in various
+latitudes.  The sky seemed like a book to him, and often when we could
+see no indications of change--and it was wonderful how quickly changes
+sometimes came--he would rapidly make his arrangements, and was rarely
+caught by the most sudden of tropical squalls.  Our first experience of
+one of these squalls was when we were fifty miles to the south of
+Madeira.  The weather had been fine all day, but about five o'clock we
+were aroused by great activity on the part of the officers and crew, who
+acted as though they expected to be boarded by pirates.  The sky had
+become cloudy, and we were told that a squall was expected.  The captain
+stood at the stern and gave his orders to the first officer in a quiet
+manner, while the latter shouted them to the sailors, who at once began
+to climb and pull at the ropes, all the while singing their sea songs.
+In the meantime the wind had come up, and was blowing like a hurricane
+through the rigging, and then the rain came down in torrents.  While this
+was going on we saw a ship at a little distance, also overtaken by the
+squall, and it was wonderful to see how soon they took in her sails--it
+was done in a twinkling.  Our vessel rolled and pitched heavily, and
+everything looked wet and wretched; but the squall passed off almost as
+quickly as it came, and the sun shone out, and everything looked smiling
+again.  Unfortunately, during the storm the wind changed right ahead.
+
+Our captain was a Tory, as most long-voyage captains are.  I have often
+thought it strange that it should be so, seeing that the whole purpose of
+a captain's life is to make progress on his voyage; but it would appear
+that, although he is always progressing, he invariably comes back to his
+starting point.
+
+At dinner one day, happening to say I was from Birmingham, the captain
+said jocularly, "Oh, that's where all the shams come from!"
+
+Now the captain hails from London, but his wife is an Irish lady, so I
+answered, "No, captain, the things known as Brummagem shams are like the
+Irish bulls, and are, for the most part, manufactured in London."
+
+"That's so," said the captain's wife; "well done, Mr. Tangye," and the
+captain subsided.
+
+Truly life on shipboard is a curious medley.  Here is a picture of what
+went on one night.  In the lower tier of cabins lies a young man in the
+last stage of consumption, and almost in the agonies of death; in a cabin
+just above him is another suffering from scarlet fever; within a few feet
+of these are mothers nursing their babies.  Sitting in a corner of the
+saloon is another young man, also in the final stage of consumption, away
+from all his friends, and without a single acquaintance on board; in
+front of him are two card parties, one of them playing for money, and
+looking as eager about it as though dear life depended on success.
+
+While all this is going on below, what might have been a tragedy is being
+enacted on deck, for the quartermaster went suddenly mad while standing
+at the wheel.  The captain had just given him some instructions, but he
+did not seem to take kindly to them, and was inclined to be disputatious.
+Presently he said, with an oath, "I won't argue with you to-night,
+captain."  The captain then ordered another man to take the wheel, when
+the poor fellow ran along the deck and fell forward, kicking vigorously.
+The captain, thinking the man was in a fit, summoned the doctor, who,
+after waiting till the patient became quieter, tried to persuade him to
+go forward with him.  The man, however, suddenly sprang up and aimed a
+tremendous blow at the poor little doctor, who, fortunately, being
+cunning of fence, managed to evade it.  He then chased the doctor around
+the deck, and would doubtless have thrown him overboard if he could have
+caught him.  The first officer then came to the rescue and seized the
+lunatic, but, although a very strong man, the doctor and he were unable
+to hold him, and ultimately it took six men to carry him forward.  At
+last they managed to secure him, as they thought, but in a very short
+time the sailors came rushing pell-mell on to the poop-deck, the maniac
+having got loose and begun to chase them with a long fork.  It was some
+time before they could again secure him, but finally they succeeded, and
+put him into a strait-jacket.
+
+In the morning the first officer went to see the poor fellow, who asked
+him to shake hands, but the officer declined.  "Well, sir," said the man,
+"I saved all your lives last night, for if I hadn't put the ship about
+she would have been right into that other ship on the starboard bow!"  Of
+course this was entirely a delusion, for there had been no ship there.
+
+Soon after entering the Tropics on one of my voyages, one of the
+second-class passengers was taken ill, and died in a few hours; he had
+been suffering from an attack of _delirium tremens_.  The funeral was
+arranged to take place at 7.30 on the following morning, and at the
+appointed time the body, which had been sewn up in sail-cloth, was placed
+on trestles on the main deck, opposite a port-hole, the "Union Jack"
+covering it.  Presently the bell began to toll, while the clergyman and
+captain read the service for the dead, and when the latter came to the
+passage "We therefore commit his body to the deep," he looked at the
+sailors, who at once loosed the corpse, which, being weighted with iron,
+shot through the open port-hole into the water with a great splash.
+During the ceremony the engines were stopped.
+
+The day following was Sunday, and it being a glorious day, with a
+perfectly smooth sea, it was arranged for the service to be held on deck,
+which was covered with an awning.  One of the passengers had brought a
+set of hand-bells with him, and he and some others rang out a peal before
+the service, the effect being curious.
+
+The water was of a beautiful purple colour, and the sky a deep blue, and
+some large white birds were lazily flying around the ship.  Under these
+unusual circumstances, and with the solemn incident of the burial of the
+poor drunkard on the previous day, one would have thought that even the
+dullest minister would have felt a thrill of inspiration.  Judge, then,
+of our surprise when the parson commenced talking to us about geology!
+Nor did he make the slightest reference to the scene around him during
+the whole sermon.  He told us, incidentally, that miners had not yet
+succeeded in getting more than twelve miles deep!  During the afternoon I
+ventured to ask him where the mine was situated of which he had spoken,
+as, happening to know something about mining operations, I was anxious to
+know how the miners managed to pump the water from a depth of twelve
+miles.  He answered testily, "I was not speaking of any particular mine."
+
+On one occasion a discussion arose as to the best means to be adopted to
+ensure the attendance of the working classes at church.  The reverend
+gentleman told us that for his part he had no difficulty in getting
+people to attend his church--all classes and conditions of people came to
+hear him, and yet he took no special means to secure their attendance.
+Not being impressed with the parson's eloquence, we were at a loss to
+understand how it was that he was so successful, when far abler and more
+attractive men failed so conspicuously; but he vouchsafed no explanation.
+On arriving in the Colony the explanation was forthcoming, for I found
+that our reverend friend was chaplain to a cemetery!
+
+On another occasion the old gentleman preached a sermon in which he
+related an anecdote of a soldier who was mortally wounded on the field of
+Waterloo.  One of the chaplains found the poor fellow, who showed him a
+Bible which he had always carried in his pocket, it having been given him
+by his mother on leaving home.  "Doubtless," said the clergyman, "this
+young man, having served his country to the death, went straight to
+glory."  Curiously enough, in the lesson for that day occurred the verse,
+"Love your enemies," etc., so during the day I asked him how he
+reconciled the verse with the idea of the red-handed soldier going
+straight to glory?  The parson (who was an Irishman) replied, "Sure, the
+soldier was heaping _fire_ on his enemy's head!"
+
+            [Picture: Ascension (from a sketch by J. Willis)]
+
+In about eighteen days after leaving Plymouth we reached the island of
+Ascension, whose fine group of volcanic peaks formed a magnificent object
+from our steamer.  The island is used as a sanatorium for the British
+Colonies on the west coast of Africa.  It has an area of about
+thirty-five square miles, and produces an abundance of turtles,
+pheasants, peafowl, and eggs, while tomatoes, castor-oil plants, and
+pepper, are indigenous.
+
+The first officer went ashore with a boat to take our letters, and to
+bring back some turtles for use during the voyage.  Immediately the boat
+left the ship we saw a big shark following close in its wake, the brute's
+fin showing above the water until the landing-stage was reached.  This
+gave us some concern, as sharks are very bold at times, and have been
+known to snap at a hand hanging over the side of a boat.  We saw large
+numbers about the ship during our stay, and one of the passengers shot
+several of them with a rifle.  One was quite near to the ship when shot,
+and on feeling the bullet leaped right out of the water, and was
+instantly attacked and doubtless devoured by its brethren on falling back
+into the sea.  We also put out a hook baited with pork, and observed
+several of the sharks make attempts upon it; but they appeared to be very
+clumsy, for they repeatedly missed it.  Presently, however, one fellow
+got the hook firmly into his mouth, and we hauled him in over the stern
+on to the poop.  He dashed about madly, looked very vicious, and reared
+right up on end, when the sailors barbarously hacked his tail off.  Soon
+he was hauled on to the main-deck and quickly despatched, his teeth being
+on sale at a shilling each in less than an hour afterwards.  Three
+turtles were brought on board "all alive," and placed on their backs on
+the deck until they were required by the cook.  They each measured
+5ft.6in. long by 3ft. wide, and 6ft.8in. in girth, and each weighed about
+330 lbs.
+
+One day we had very rough weather, with an occasional sea dashing over
+the deck, along which the dinner was brought from the kitchen.  My
+steward quietly told me to take none of the turtle soup, and I obeyed.
+After dinner I asked him why he advised me to let the soup pass?  He said
+that as they were coming along the deck a sea came over and washed half
+the soup out of the tureen, decidedly mixing what was left!  Those who
+partook of the soup remarked that the cook had put rather too much salt
+to it; but they libelled that useful functionary.
+
+         [Picture: Crossing the "Line"--"Why! don't you see it?"]
+
+One of our fellow-passengers was an old German lady, who was returning
+from a visit to her fatherland.  She was very lively, and informed us she
+had not told her husband she was returning by this ship, intending, as
+she said, "to catch him on de hop," but she did not know that the
+passengers' names were all sent on by the mail, which went faster than we
+did; so when we got to the port her husband, "Shemmy" (Jemmy), as she
+called him, had come out with the pilot, and was very near catching her
+on "de hop," for she was a very lively old lady.  One morning, while we
+were in the Tropics, upon getting on deck, we found the old lady dressed
+from head to foot in scarlet!  It was too much, with the thermometer at
+101 in the shade, so a deputation waited upon her and begged her to shade
+her glory, for it was too overpowering.
+
+                [Picture: The "Baby Hippopotamus" at Play]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+After being a month at sea the sailors performed the ceremony called
+"Burying the Dead Horse," the explanation of which is this: Before
+leaving port seamen are paid a month in advance, so as to enable them to
+leave some money with their wives, or to buy a new kit, etc., and having
+spent the money they consider the first month goes for nothing, and so
+call it "Working off the Dead Horse."  The crew dress up a figure to
+represent a horse; its body is made out of a barrel, its extremities of
+hay or straw covered with canvas, the mane and tail of hemp, the eyes of
+two ginger beer bottles, sometimes filled with phosphorus.  When complete
+the noble steed is put on a box, covered with a rug, and on the evening
+of the last day of the month a man gets on to his back, and is drawn all
+round the ship by his shipmates, to the chanting of the following
+doggerel:--
+
+                [Picture: Music to Burying the Dead Horse]
+
+                           BURYING THE DEAD HORSE.
+
+    You have come a long long way,
+       And we say so, for we know so.
+    For to be sold upon this day,
+       Poor old man.
+
+    You are goin' now to say good-bye,
+       And we say so, for we know so.
+    Poor old horse you're a goin' to die,
+       Poor Old Man.
+
+Having paraded the decks in order to get an audience, the sale of the
+horse by auction is announced, and a glib-mouthed man mounts the rostrum
+and begins to praise the noble animal, giving his pedigree, etc., saying
+it was a good one to go, for it had gone 6,000 miles in the past month!
+The bidding then commences, each bidder being responsible only for the
+amount of his advance on the last bid.  After the sale the horse and its
+rider are run up to the yard-arm amidst loud cheers.  Fireworks are let
+off, the man gets off the horse's back, and, cutting the rope, lets it
+fall into the water.  The _Requiem_ is then sung to the same melody.
+
+    Now he is dead and will die no more,
+       And we say so, for we know so.
+    Now he is gone and will go no more;
+       Poor Old Man.
+
+                    [Picture: Burying the Dead Horse]
+
+After this the auctioneer and his clerk proceed to collect the "bids,"
+and if in your ignorance of auction etiquette you should offer your's to
+the auctioneer, he politely declines it, and refers you to his clerk!
+
+As we neared the Equator the heat became very oppressive.  On October
+2nd, when 7 north of the line, the thermometer stood at 120 in the sun,
+while under the awning it registered 85.  On the thermometer being dipped
+into the sea the temperature of the surface water was found to be 82,
+while in the cabin at midnight the thermometer stood at 80, with the wind
+blowing in at the open porthole.
+
+In passing under the vertical sun the old proverb "may your shadow never
+grow less" is entirely out of place, for it is impossible it can
+diminish, unless, indeed, one should become like poor misguided Peter
+Schlemihl, and find oneself altogether without one!  When standing
+upright my shadow was about two feet in diameter, and it looked like the
+shadow of the brim of my hat all round my feet.
+
+The wife of the captain of our steamer had been very unwell until we had
+passed the Equator, and had not come out of her cabin.  One evening, soon
+after she made her first appearance, I was chatting with her, when,
+finding I was from Cornwall, she asked me if I knew a certain
+watering-place in that county which she named.  It happened that I had a
+residence at the place in question, and curiously enough she had been a
+visitor at the same house before I had it, and she said, "last year my
+sister was staying in the neighbourhood with some friends, when they were
+nearly caught by the tide on the beach opposite the house, and had to
+scale the face of the cliff, climbing up some old ladders left in an
+abandoned mine."  I told her if they had taken my advice, and had turned
+back, they would not have had such an unpleasant adventure, for I
+happened to be on the beach at the time, and warned the party of their
+danger, but they disregarded it!  It was curious to be reminded of this
+occurrence under such circumstances.
+
+Amongst our fellow-passengers were two young men, whose friends, it was
+reported, had become tired of them at home, and had made a present of
+them to the Colonies.  They were very lively youths, and did their best
+to keep the ship lively by their pranks and escapades.  They were known
+by the names of "Tall and Fat," and "Short and Stout," and were always
+together.  Sometimes, however, the playfulness of these two young men
+received an unexpected check.  On one occasion they had gone "forward" to
+play some tricks upon the emigrants, who, however, did not see the fun;
+so, having got the lads into a corner, they covered them, first with
+molasses and then with flour, and so returned them to the saloon.  They
+did not repeat their visit.
+
+There is one feature on board many ships which always strikes passengers
+with surprise; and that is the impunity with which the "wild spirits"
+carry on their disorderly conduct.  Drinking, betting, shouting, tramping
+the deck at unseemly hours of the night, are permitted, to the great
+annoyance of the majority; but it is in vain that you appeal to the
+officers--they will not interfere.  On one occasion a noisy youth, who
+went by the name of the "Blatant Beast," was firing a revolver about "at
+large," and although we appealed to the captain, and begged that he would
+disarm the lad, it was useless--he would not interfere.  Ultimately the
+young man accidentally discharged the pistol and broke his arm, and so
+relieved his neighbours from further apprehensions for a time.
+
+One night "Short and Stout" and "Tall and Fat," and a few other rowdies,
+got drunk, and in their rambles found a poor harmless cat, which they
+chased all over the ship, and succeeded in killing.  On the following day
+these gallant youths determined, in Irish phrase, to "wake" the cat.
+They proceeded to fit up one of their cabins as a chapel, and upon a bier
+the corpse of poor pussy was laid, having been dressed for the occasion,
+candles surrounding the body.  The mourners, or murderers, stood around
+the body with pipes in their mouths, meggy-howling and cat-a-wauling in a
+most vigorous fashion, afterwards parading the deck, headed by one of
+their party, arrayed in a dress coat over a night shirt, and wearing a
+tall white hat, carrying the dead body of poor puss before him.
+
+Betting is often carried on to a great extent, considerable sums of money
+changing hands.  One passenger told me, after we had been some weeks at
+sea, that he had cleared enough to pay for his own passage, and also for
+that of his wife and child, and that it only remained for him to win
+enough to pay for the nurse, and to take them all from Australia to New
+Zealand, and he should be happy!  I knew one man, the father of a very
+large family, who lost 700 in three weeks, 400 of it going at a single
+night's play; yet, with striking consistency, this open-handed gentleman
+refused to allow his wife and daughters to go on shore at one of the most
+interesting of our ports of call on the score of the expense, which he
+said would amount to at least 2 or 3!
+
+A pleasant sight it is to watch the fish and birds which begin to make
+their appearance about 30 S.  Occasionally flocks of flying-fish are to
+be seen flying a few feet above the water, pursued by dolphins.
+Sometimes their headlong flight carries them right on to the deck, or
+through the cabin windows when lighted up after nightfall.  They are
+caught by the sailors at night by the simple device of suspending a net
+in front of a lantern, and they are said to be very good when cooked.
+
+We first saw that splendid bird, the albatross, when about 28 S.
+latitude, and when more than 1,000 miles from land.  They appeared in
+flocks, and would follow the ship for many days.  Their flight is
+exceedingly graceful, and very rapid, the movement of their wings being
+scarcely perceptible.  The capture of the albatross is a favourite
+amusement upon sailing ships--it is scarcely possible to catch them from
+a steamer--the plan being to let out a line over the stern, having a
+strong hook baited with a piece of meat or with red cloth.  We were
+successful in catching a magnificent fellow, which measured 15ft. across
+its wings.  A drop of prussic acid applied to the eye of the poor
+creature causes instant death.  The breast forms an excellent muff, and
+the wing bones make good stems for pipes of the "churchwarden" pattern.
+One of our passengers was a fiery Irishman, who was travelling with his
+newly-married wife.  One day, while at dinner, the ship gave a heavy
+lurch, and the lady fell back, breaking her chair; upon which her
+husband, in a great rage, seized the chair, and, rushing on deck, threw
+it overboard, when lo! a flock of albatrosses crowded around it, and one
+fine fellow "took" the chair, and appeared to be addressing his friends!
+
+One of the most beautiful creatures to be seen in tropical waters is the
+"Portuguese Man-of-War."  It is often confounded with the Nautilus, but
+is a quite distinct organism; it has a crest which can be raised or
+lowered at will, and its body consists of a long, horizontal, oblong
+bladder filled with air.  They vary in size from 12in. diameter to small
+discs no larger than a shilling, and present a beautiful appearance as
+the ship passes by a fleet of them.
+
+          [Picture: (A) The "Classic" Dolphin.  (B) The Dolphin]
+
+We caught some dolphins, and an examination of their stomachs proved they
+were not unjustly suspected of eating the pretty little flying-fish.  The
+pilot-fish, also found in these latitudes, is coloured purple and silver,
+with five black bands across it, and is about five inches in length.  We
+also saw specimens of the white shark, porpoises, grampuses, Mother
+Carey's chickens, booby-birds, etc.
+
+One of the most interesting sights at sea is the passing of ships.  I
+shall never forget our meeting a ship in full sail one glorious moonlight
+night.  It came close to us, the moon shining full on its sails, and
+being like our vessel, a sailing ship, not a sound was heard until our
+captain hailed the stranger, and asked him to report us "all well."
+
+One would think there was not much danger of collision at sea, in broad
+daylight and in the open ocean, but on one occasion, while in a sailing
+ship, another came so close to us that it was only by the most dexterous
+management on the part of our captain that a collision was avoided.
+
+The monotony of a long voyage is occasionally relieved by the opportunity
+of sending letters in homeward-bound ships, and when we had been out
+about a month we were told to have our letters ready, for a ship was in
+sight.  Everyone was immediately deeply engaged in writing, and presently
+the stranger came sufficiently near for us to communicate with her.  Our
+signal was run up, "Will you take letters for us?" to which she quickly
+replied, "With pleasure," and then a boat left us to take our letter-bag
+on board the "homeward-bound."  This vessel was from Moulmein with teak,
+and she had been one hundred days out.  Those on board had heard nothing
+of the Cabul massacre, but they brought us news of the capture of
+Cetewayo, having got it from a passing ship.  In return for this
+intelligence we told them of the death of the Prince Imperial, which they
+had not heard of, although it happened before the capture of Cetewayo.
+
+Some of our passengers went on board the passing ship, and two of them
+scrambled up the rigging, and presently we saw a sailor follow them and
+tie their legs to the rigging, releasing them as soon as they had paid
+their footing.  In the evening the two ships parted company, saluting
+each other with rockets of various colours.
+
+While our letters were being taken on board the homeward-bound ship, we
+saw a huge shark follow the boat until it reached the vessel, and on
+hearing a shout, "a big fish!" we ran to the ship's side and saw a whale
+not more than a hundred feet off.  The monster gave a loud snort, spouted
+water, and then made off.  I wonder if it had any idea what we were?
+
+There was a boxing match going forward one day, when the captain invited
+the parson to put the gloves on.  "Oh, no," he said, "I am a man of peace
+_now_."  He told me he objected to war as much as anyone could do.
+"But," I said, "your Church does not."  He replied that there was nothing
+in the teaching of the Church which advocated war; so I asked him, if
+that was the case, what that part of the prayer-book meant where a hope
+is expressed that the Queen may "vanquish and overcome all her enemies."
+
+At dinner one day our friend undertook to explain to us how drain-pipes
+were made.  He said, "You know those round things that are put in the
+earth to carry off the water?"  Some one suggested drain-pipes.  "Ah,
+yes," he said, "you know they take a kind of clay not like other clay,
+and put it into a sort of machine and turn it around and the pipes are
+made."  I thought his description was not so good as that of the Irishman
+who explained the manufacture of cast-iron pipes by saying, "You take a
+round hole and pour the metal around it."
+
+                       [Picture: A Colonial Parson]
+
+Some one remarking that we were now 36 south, he said, "Ah, that is just
+4 below freezing," having confused the degrees of latitude with those of
+the thermometer.  Upon being told that 32 was the freezing point.
+"Really?" he said, "I always thought it was 40."
+
+In listening to most of the clergymen with whom I have travelled, I have
+been irresistibly reminded of the complaint made so bitterly, and with so
+much truth, by Australian importers in the early gold-finding days, that
+English merchants and manufacturers were utterly reckless as to the
+quality of the goods they sent out, acting on the principle that
+"anything will do for the Colonies."  This idea has long ceased to have
+any currency, for it has been discovered that the coinage of the
+Australian mint ranks equally with that of London, but it does not appear
+that those responsible for the due supply of clergymen to the Colonies
+have realised the same truth, for on every hand I have had my own
+experience confirmed.  The general complaint amongst the colonists,
+especially in the country districts, is that either young and totally
+inexperienced men are sent to them, or else men who have proved failures
+at home; and they not unnaturally resent such treatment.
+
+In a recent voyage we had a large number of steerage passengers, and
+amongst them was a very earnest, hard-working evangelist from Mr.
+Spurgeon's college; this man had sacrificed his ease during the voyage by
+attending to the sick and ailing "in season and out of season," and was
+admitted on all sides to have done much good; frequently, too, he held
+religious services amongst the steerage passengers, and met with great
+acceptance.  One man had been very ill for a long time, and had been
+tenderly waited upon by the evangelist.  After a time he became suddenly
+worse, and some passengers at once went to a clergyman, who suggested
+that the Communion should be administered.  Having obtained the help of
+another clergyman and two or three of the passengers--none of whom had
+before shown any interest in the patient--they proceeded on their errand
+without saying a word to the evangelist, and on the following Sunday the
+clergyman preached a sermon to the poor people, endeavouring to prove
+that no one had any right to teach or to preach but members of his
+Church, who, only, held the true commission, by virtue of what he called
+the "direct succession from Peter:" and I suppose he thought he was
+preaching religion, not perceiving that he lacked what Paul described as
+being the highest of all the Christian virtues--that of charity.
+
+In passing through the Tropics one of the most glorious sights is the
+phosphorescence in the sea.  Of course it can be seen to the greatest
+advantage in the absence of the moon; it is something wonderful, and
+worth coming all the way to see.  As far as the eye can reach, the track
+of the vessel is marked out with the utmost brilliancy, and sometimes
+tiny balls of phosphorus seem to explode, scattering their radiance far
+and wide.
+
+We had as fellow-passengers three young men who rarely spoke to anyone
+outside their own party, and during the early part of the voyage they
+usually sat on the deck for hours at a time engaged in reading their
+Bibles and making notes on the margin.  After we had been out a few weeks
+the youngest of the three was stricken with scarlet fever, and at one
+time he was seriously ill.
+
+The trio were known as the "Danite Band."  The eldest was a young man
+about twenty-one, and one evening I had a little chat with him.  He said
+he belonged to no sect; he had "come out from among them"--that his soul
+was safe, die when he would, and that he could only look on the poor
+sinners around him with a pitying eye, and pray for their souls.  He was
+rejoicing at having saved one soul since he came on board.  It so
+happened that this young man occupied the same cabin as the youth who was
+ill with fever, but becoming alarmed for his personal safety (not his
+soul's), he requested to be accommodated elsewhere, while another
+passenger volunteered to take his place and to nurse the invalid, so they
+exchanged cabins.  On the following Sunday the young man who had
+volunteered as nurse knocked at the pious young man's door and asked for
+his boots, receiving for answer, "I won't be bothered about boots on the
+Lord's Day."
+
+It is usual to hold a bazaar on passenger ships proceeding to or from the
+Colonies.  These bazaars are almost invariably held in aid of the funds
+of the Merchant Seaman's Hospital and other similar institutions, and a
+large sum is annually obtained in this way.  The result in the case of
+the sailing vessel in which I made one of my voyages was a sum of over
+50, besides some annual subscriptions, although the number of adult
+saloon passengers was only about thirty.
+
+Great preparations were made for this bazaar, it being the event of the
+voyage.  The day previous the sailors were busily engaged closing-in the
+promenade deck with canvas and bunting, and dividing it off into stalls
+by means of flags and other coloured materials.  While thus engaged,
+another sailing vessel came in sight, and the sea being nearly dead calm
+the two vessels approached closely, and parties were speedily passing to
+and fro.  We invited some of the passengers in the stranger to join us
+to-morrow, and they invested about 5 in lotteries before going back for
+the night.
+
+Next day was a most lovely one, but a heavy rolling sea was sufficient to
+prevent our visitors of yesterday joining us.  Nevertheless, we
+thoroughly enjoyed the day ourselves, for the whole ship's
+company--passengers, crew, men, women, and children--held high carnival
+on the promenade deck.  It was pretty to see the children of the second
+class who, owing to the high bulwarks, were rarely able to see over the
+ship's side, rush first of all to look over the rail at the heaving sea.
+
+The first officer was dressed as a showman, and presided over the Fine
+Art Exhibition, his face being painted a fine terra-cotta tint.  The crew
+and stewards were variously costumed as nigger minstrels, etc.  The
+stalls were presided over by the ladies, who, as usual, were very
+successful in disposing of the various articles, which, by the way, were
+for the most part made up by the ladies themselves during the voyage.
+Much curiosity was excited by the announcement of a dramatic performance,
+entitled "The White Squall," which was to take place in the Theatre
+Royal.  The _corps dramatique_ evinced great anxiety to secure the
+attendance of the whole ship's company, and were fairly successful.  The
+performance did not take long, for as soon as the audience were seated
+cries of "Let go" were heard from the actors, upon which the air was
+filled with a veritable "White Squall," consisting of clouds of flour,
+causing a general stampede.
+
+Next day we found our companion of yesterday lying at some distance
+ahead, while a stranger lay on the port quarter.  A curious instance of
+cross-signalling ensued.  The stranger asks our companion, the St.
+Vincent, for latitude and longitude.  The St. Vincent missing this, and
+intent on their investment in yesterday's lottery, puts up, "What have we
+won?"  The reply, "Nothing."  The stranger runs up, "Don't understand.
+Repeat, please."  Then St. Vincent replies, "Very sorry," upon which our
+Captain signals the stranger, and removes all further doubt.
+
+We passed close to the Island of Tristan d'Acunha, which lies in the
+South Atlantic, lat. 37 6' S., long. 12 7' W.  As a curious little
+history attaches to the island, I make the following extract from our
+ship's newspaper:
+
+"Tristan d'Acunha is a volcanic peak of very considerable altitude, so
+considerable indeed that its summit is covered almost perpetually with
+snow.  It rises sheer out of the water, and there is only a single
+landing-place on the whole island.  Previous to the downfall of Bonaparte
+it was uninhabited; but when that scourge was despatched to St. Helena,
+the British Government deemed it advisable to secure this isolated rock,
+and so prevent the French using it as a base of operations against the
+place of Napoleon's internment.  A small company of soldiers, in charge
+of a corporal, was therefore despatched, and left in possession.
+
+"In 1821 Napoleon died, and the necessity for maintaining the garrison at
+Tristan existed no longer.  A man-of-war was accordingly sent to bring
+away the corporal and his little army.  But he and they had by this time
+comfortably settled down, tilled the--rock we were about to say--and
+produced excellent potatoes and other vegetables; raised pigs and goats,
+and having in some mysterious way obtained wives, had raised families
+too.  They were therefore extremely reluctant to leave the scene of their
+successful labours; and the English Government, nothing loth to encourage
+colonisation, at once gave the necessary permission to remain, and with
+it a small pension or annuity.
+
+"They have gone on flourishing and increasing, forming a useful and
+peaceable community in the very centre of the South Atlantic; useful
+because whalers and other vessels, by putting in there, are able to
+obtain fresh potatoes, vegetables, and pigs.  Little money is used,
+barter affording sufficient facility for interchange.
+
+"Crime is almost unknown.  We had as well said absolutely unknown, for it
+is doubtful whether the one case of dishonesty on record as such was not
+rather an ill-fared joke.  It seems that when a marriage takes place a
+pig is killed by the bride's father, and dressed the night before the
+nuptials.  On the occasion referred to the pig disappeared before
+morning, and was traced to the house of a notorious wag, as to whose fate
+history is silent.  It is only fair to add that he admitted taking the
+pig, but protested that it had been done by way of a practical joke.  At
+one time a missionary existed in the midst of this innocent community,
+but he eventually disappeared--either died or was removed.  His place was
+never refilled, and the consequences have been rather trying to the
+budding men and women of Tristan, for whereas in the missionary's days
+loving couples could be, to use a nautical phrase, "spliced," when they
+had made up their minds, now they must wait until a chance man-o'-war,
+with a chaplain on board, puts in, and as their visits are nearly as rare
+as those of the angels, the patience of these Tristan lovers must
+unquestionably be sorely strained.  When, however, like some comet of
+very eccentric orbit, the parson does at length turn up, he finds plenty
+of ripe pairs ready--nay, eager--for him.
+
+"What a popular man that parson must be!  Last and most interesting fact.
+When the 'Sobraon' put in at Tristan in 1879 the corporal was still
+living, a venerable patriarch of ninety years."
+
+After leaving Tristan we soon get "into the forties," or as the sailors
+are wont to say, "the rolling forties," where the westerly winds steadily
+prevail, and continue right on until we make Cape Leeuwin.  These winds
+cause the magnificent waves, or "rollers," which tower up over the stern
+of the vessel, threatening, apparently, to overwhelm it.  In a gale of
+wind, and when the "following seas" are running at a high speed, it
+becomes necessary for some vessels to "lie to" in order to avoid this
+catastrophe.  We had an opportunity of seeing this operation.  Soon after
+passing the Cape we were overtaken by a heavy gale, and a high following
+sea.  Our vessel being a sailing ship of the old type, with broad bluff
+bows, necessitated our adopting that course.  Our stern was turned in the
+teeth of the wind and sea, and, with the exception of a top-sail and
+jib-sail, all our canvas was closely taken in.  She lay so all night
+labouring heavily, and the sea breaking over her decks.
+
+Soon after sighting Cape Otway vessels bound for Melbourne receive their
+pilot, whose advent is the occasion of great excitement among the betting
+fraternity.  Bets are laid on the colour of his hair and whiskers,
+whether or not he has a moustache, the letter with which his name begins,
+and which foot he will first put on deck.  As soon as he makes his
+appearance he is greeted with shouts of "What's your name?"  Evidently he
+is accustomed to it, for he does not look surprised.  In this particular
+case everyone was out as to the colour of his hair and beard, for he had
+a black beard and white whiskers.  The pilot brought news of a general
+election in one of the colonies, and one of our passengers, a colonial
+statesman, eagerly asked him for papers.  The statesman's countenance was
+expressive of blankness within when he saw he was beaten in his
+constituency--but soon brightened on hearing he was returned by another.
+
+The entrance to Hobson's Bay is very narrow, and the distance therefrom
+to Melbourne is about 40 miles.  We landed soon after six on a January
+morning, and found the heat almost unbearable.  Taking a cab to our
+hotel, we made our first experience of the high charges in a
+Protectionist colony, for we were obliged to pay a guinea for this
+service.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+                        [Picture: IN THE TROPICS]
+
+When driving to the hotel we were struck with the deserted appearance of
+the streets, as very few persons were seen during our three miles' ride
+from Sandridge.  It did not occur to us that this arose from the
+earliness of the hour, our day having commenced about three A.M., when we
+began to make preparations for landing; but, as will be seen, the fact
+became of startling significance to us.  While waiting for breakfast I
+took up the newspaper, and had not proceeded far before I came to an
+article headed "The Black Death in Melbourne."  This article gave a
+detailed and circumstantial account of the progress of the disease, which
+was stated to have been raging for the past four or five weeks.  Among
+other things, the article stated that the number of deaths had become so
+great that it was impossible to dig separate graves; that the bodies were
+placed in trenches, one being dug each day; that all who could leave the
+city had fled; and that the mob had surrounded the Town Hall, demanding
+to see the Mayor and Corporation, who, however, had already disappeared.
+Getting alarmed, we rang for the waiter, and asked him how we could get
+to Adelaide.  He naturally enough seemed surprised, as we had only just
+arrived.  I told him it was too bad he had not warned us of the state of
+the city, and of the existence of the plague.  The man looked astonished.
+I asked him if there had not been great illness and mortality in the
+city.  He answered that there had been a few cases of measles, and a
+whooping-cough or two, and that six people had died during the last week
+from these causes.  I began to suspect we had been "sold," and was about
+to pass the paper to him when I caught sight of an asterisk placed
+against the heading, and on looking at the foot of the column saw that
+the article was written as a prediction of what would happen in Melbourne
+within 100 years unless sanitary matters were at once attended to.
+
+Melbourne is a city of fine broad streets, handsome public buildings,
+splendid shops, and vast warehouses.  Indeed, a stranger cannot fail to
+be struck with its metropolitan-like character.  Only forty years ago the
+site on which it stands was a mere swamp with a few log huts; now its
+population is about the third of a million souls.  For this population a
+series of educational institutions of an unusually high character have
+been founded, and are in active operation.  The Free Library, which we
+visited, is a handsome room, and seems in every way well adapted to the
+requirements of a large number of students and readers.  We were
+impressed with the quietude which prevailed, notwithstanding that the
+room was well filled with readers, most of them apparently of the artisan
+class.  The Art Gallery is a free institution, and contains a very fair
+collection of good paintings.
+
+The Natural History Museum, which by the way is really a museum of
+general science, is a truly magnificent institution.  Very fine
+collections are here classified in a manner which, while perfectly lucid
+to the student, is also in strict accordance with the views of modern
+scientific authorities.  We noticed particularly a good collection of
+sedimentary fossils, well preserved and fairly comprehensive.  A fine
+meteorolite weighing 30 cwts., a portion of one weighing four tons which
+fell in Victoria a few years ago, is a prominent object near the
+entrance.  This museum, in common with the Art Gallery and Free Library,
+is the resort of vast numbers of students, and it is cheering to be
+informed that the working classes largely avail themselves of the
+advantages thus provided for them.
+
+As in the other Australian colonies, education here has been taken up in
+a vigorous and thorough manner, and the State schools are a credit to the
+colony.  Although the population of Victoria is under one million, we
+observed in Melbourne a school bearing the inscription No. 1465.  But
+with all this liberality and foresight, a strange blot exists in the
+educational course, for the study of history is, in deference to the
+prejudices of a portion of the population, absolutely interdicted.  It is
+impossible, however, that this absurd concession to ignorance can long be
+endured.  In leaving Aden on one occasion I began to have doubts as to
+whether geography was also excluded, for a young man, son of a well-to-do
+squatter, hearing me speak of Suez, asked which end of the canal that
+town stood at; and another youth, in passing the island of Candia, said
+he always thought _Canada_ was somewhere in America.
+
+Happily, no fears exist in Australia as to the policy of thoroughly
+educating the people; on the contrary, it is commonly recognised that the
+future prosperity of the State--indeed its very existence--depends upon
+the universal diffusion of education.
+
+At the time of our visit party feeling ran very high in connection with
+the doings of the "Berry" Ministry, and as extraordinary personalities
+were nightly being indulged in by both sides in the House, we went one
+evening to hear a "debate."  The regular business seemed to be conducted
+as well as it is at Westminster, but it was curious to see the careless
+way in which the members, in brown holland or yellow silk coats, lay
+about on the sofas, or lazily lounged off to the table for frequent
+draughts of what was said to be iced water.  The shouts, cries, and
+interruptions were very unseemly, much worse than anything we had then
+experienced, giving us a very low opinion of the representatives of the
+people.  One honourable member, in the course of debate, hurled a heavy
+tome across the house at the head of one of his opponents with crushing
+effect, while another member characterised the smile of the Minister of
+Lands as being such as to "sour all the milk in the colony, and to take
+the varnish off all the mahogany in the house."  This compliment the
+Minister lightly parried by remarking that anything coming from the son
+of a cabbage hawker could not affect him.
+
+The Melbourne legislators evidently do not believe in having "all work
+and no play," they have consequently provided themselves--of course out
+of the public purse--with billiard tables, and, with a spirit of rare
+generosity and thoughtfulness, have made the parliamentary reporters for
+the Press free of the rooms.
+
+With such provision for their comfort, and with handsome salaries paid
+them for their services by a grateful country, what wonder that there
+should be considerable competition for seats within the walls of the
+Victorian House of Parliament? and with what feelings of commiseration
+must they regard their brethren of New South Wales, who, when one of
+their number recently proposed to imitate the example of Melbourne in the
+matter of billiard tables, were reminded, in unmistakable terms by their
+exacting constituents, that they were sent to Parliament to work and not
+to play!  And what makes the matter harder for the Sydney legislators is
+the fact that, unlike their Melbourne friends, they are not paid for
+their services.
+
+The question of the payment of Members of Parliament has acquired
+considerable interest in England of late, mainly in consequence of Mr.
+Chamberlain's declaration in its favour; and it appears not unlikely that
+at no distant date it may be carried into effect.  There are two modes by
+which the object in view may be attained;--either by a general charge
+upon the Imperial Revenue, or by each constituency paying its own
+representative; in either case the amount of salary would be determined
+by Parliament; and, if the latter course be adopted, its payment would be
+made obligatory.  In Victoria the salaries are paid direct from the
+Treasury, and those who have seen how the system works are the least
+enthusiastic in its favour.
+
+Time was, when to be a Member of Parliament was looked upon as a certain
+way to repair a broken fortune, or to make a new one; but since the days
+when George III., of pious memory, taught his Ministers how to corrupt
+the Parliament, a seat in that assembly has not been considered to be
+pecuniarily advantageous.  But in some of the Australian colonies the
+case is different, politics being looked upon, to a great extent, as a
+trade or profession, and very largely because of the salary attached to
+the position of Members of the Legislature.
+
+One of my customers in Victoria, who had long owed me 50, told me he
+would soon be able to discharge his debt as he had been nominated for
+Parliament, and would pay me out of his first quarter's salary!  It is
+only fair to say that, although he failed to secure the seat, he
+nevertheless paid his debt.
+
+The Houses of Parliament stand on a slight elevation, and though still
+unfinished, promise to be a magnificent pile of buildings, of which many
+an old-established country, with far greater pretensions than Victoria,
+might well be proud.  The Great Hall, a sort of ante-chamber to the
+Houses, impressed me as much as any building of the kind I had ever seen.
+It is about 180ft. long, by 60ft. wide, and 60ft. high, without
+galleries, seats, or anything to detract from its magnificent
+proportions.  The whole surface of the walls and roof is covered with a
+beautiful enamel-like cement, brilliantly white and polished quite
+smooth, the floor being of white marble, and a superb white marble statue
+of the Queen in the centre.  The whole effect is startlingly beautiful.
+I subsequently went over the Town Hall and Council Chamber, but these are
+much inferior to corresponding buildings in Birmingham.  The councillors
+wear cocked hats and gold-braided coats, and the aldermen black stuff
+gowns or robes.
+
+I have already spoken of the tension in party politics at the time of our
+visit.  This was seized upon by the theatrical people, who produced an
+adaptation of the burlesque known in England as "Happy Land," the
+principal characters being Mr. Berry--the Premier, the man with the
+caustic smile, and another prominent member of the Administration.  On
+the morning of the day on which the first representation was to have been
+given, a Cabinet Council was hastily summoned, and the question gravely
+debated as to whether the safety of the State, or at any rate the
+Cabinet, would not be compromised by tolerating the performance.  It was
+quickly and unanimously decided to prohibit it, and this decision was
+announced.  Such a universal storm of ridicule was thus aroused that the
+infatuated Berryites were driven to reconsider their course, ultimately
+licensing an emasculated version of the play, with all the political
+references erased.  The newspapers, ever alive to the chance of turning a
+penny, and showing up an opponent, published the original _in extenso_,
+and when the performance began large numbers of the audience had copies
+before them.  When an excised passage was reached, the actor or actress
+would pause, and, holding up the hand, whisper audibly, "Hush!
+prohibited," giving time for those with copies to read the obnoxious
+reference.  For days after people in the street would, on meeting, put up
+the finger, and greet each other with "Hush! prohibited."  The Government
+were overwhelmed with ridicule, and were glad to compromise with the
+persons they had so injudiciously provoked.
+
+During the summer Melbourne is occasionally visited by what are called
+"hot winds."  They blow from the north, and derive much of their arid
+character from coming over the great wastes of the interior.  We were
+unlucky enough to experience one of these hot winds, and we subsequently
+learned that the shade temperature had reached 117--as high a point, I
+believe, as any that had previously been recorded in the city.  It is no
+exaggeration to say that while exposed to the wind it felt like the hot
+blast from the cupola of a foundry when iron is being melted.  The
+clothes were little or no protection against its scorching influence.
+The air was filled with choking clouds of dust, which penetrated
+everything and everywhere.  In the evening, however, the wind fell off,
+leaving the temperature very high.
+
+The sanitary arrangements in Melbourne are extremely defective, and to my
+mind fully justify the writer of the article on the "Black Death," which
+so much startled us on our arrival there.  There is literally no system
+of sewerage, the whole drainage of the town running by the side of the
+pathways in wide ill-paved channels, crossed by wooden foot bridges.  The
+whole runs into the river Yarra.  In heavy rains these channels become
+surcharged, and the lower-lying streets are flooded with diluted sewage.
+On such an occasion I was crossing one of these gutters, when a
+street-sweeper approached, holding his cap in one hand and his broom in
+the other, and asked me to remember "an old shipmate, your honour."  I
+soon recognised him as our old friend "Tall and Fat".  I could not help
+looking surprised, whereat he assured me he had found a most excellent
+berth as a street-sweeper--that none but gentlemen were engaged in the
+"profession," all being Oxford or Cambridge men--the wages being 7s. per
+day.  I asked after his friend "Short and Stout."  He said he held a
+similar appointment at an adjoining corner, and he promised to share my
+gratuity with him.
+
+The country between Melbourne and Ballarat is flat and somewhat
+uninteresting, but near the latter city it becomes more hilly and
+diversified.  Ballarat is a well-built city, containing about 40,000
+inhabitants.  A few years ago there were 10,000 more, but in consequence
+of the alluvial gold becoming exhausted a considerable exodus took place.
+The streets are wide, and have trees on each side; in some there are
+trees in the middle as well.  The houses are substantially built of stone
+or brick, and altogether it has the air of being a busy and prosperous
+place.
+
+We visited one of the gold mines, and as we approached the office saw
+three persons coming towards it, one of them carrying a parcel, which
+appeared to be heavy.  It proved to be a brick of gold weighing 33 lbs.,
+and worth about 1,200, being the result of one week's working.  We were
+shown the various processes of obtaining the gold from the quartz, and
+were rather surprised at the somewhat primitive character of the
+machinery employed.
+
+                      [Picture: Gold Mine, Ballarat]
+
+Several of the companies with big-sounding names occupy spaces of only
+60ft. by 50ft., and yet yield substantial returns.  One such little patch
+is part of the Church land, and is called "Hallelujah Claim," in honour
+of the Church.  The total value of gold raised in Australia up to end of
+1879 was 275 millions sterling.
+
+One of the prettiest features of this handsome city is a fine sheet of
+water called Lake Wendouree.  This lake is about a mile across, and lies
+in the crater of an extinct volcano.  The Botanical Gardens are on the
+farther side of Wendouree, which has a fine boulevard round each side
+leading thereto.  On the lake are several pretty little steamers, which
+make frequent excursions.  In the evening they are provided with coloured
+lamps, and music and dances may be enjoyed by the passengers.  Ballarat
+is less than thirty years old, yet has quite an old-world appearance.  It
+is a charming city and well worth a visit, and we were well pleased to
+have seen it.
+
+A favourite excursion from Melbourne is to the Black Spur Mountains,
+about two days' drive from the city.  Leaving Melbourne the route passes
+through some miles of suburban villa residences with beautiful gardens.
+After about ten miles "the bush" is reached, and continues for the
+remainder of the journey, relieved here and there by a clearing or by a
+little village.  The term "bush" must not be understood as scrub, furze,
+etc., but all kinds of uncultivated land, thick forests, and open
+country.  A curious feature of colonial life is to see in full operation
+the old stage coaches, so long ago discarded in England.  They are
+painted a brilliant red, and indeed appear to be the veritable machines
+used in the "good old days when George the Third was king."  They are
+frequently drawn by six or more horses, and, true to their ancient
+traditions, now and then have a spill, for roadmakers in the Colonies
+have the same habit as their English brethren of making short "right
+about turns" at the bottom of steep hills.  We drew up at a small wayside
+inn, intending to bait the horses, but found it was closed, owing to the
+death of the landlord.  This man was a large wine grower, and his
+vineyards extended for a considerable distance round his house.  After
+passing through many miles of country under vine cultivation we pulled up
+for the night at a little village called Healesville, where a very
+miscellaneous company sat down to a substantial repast, ending with what
+the waiter called a "soafler."  The light being dim it was difficult to
+see what the dish really was, and curiosity being awakened, inquiry
+elicited the fact that it was intended for a souffle.  The hotel being
+quite full of visitors, two of our party had to sleep in the parlour on
+sofas of the horse-hair order.  The landlord, coming in to see if we were
+all right, informed us we could not have our boots cleaned in the
+morning, as his man was just then out on a boose.  A colonial friend
+travelling with us remarked that it was "awkward when master or man took
+to boosing."  Our friend had previously told us that the landlord was
+generally "on that line."  "You never saw me boosy!" said he.  "_Never_!"
+retorted our friend, with peculiar emphasis, which summarily stopped the
+discussion.  We were awakened early in the morning by the screams of
+laughing jackasses and the crowing of cocks.  Our toilette was performed
+somewhat under difficulties, one of us having to use the piano as a
+washstand, and another being constrained to go through the same operation
+in the open street under the hotel verandah.  Our route now lay over a
+steep hill, through a forest of gum trees, the fragrance arising from the
+latter in the early morning air being delightfully refreshing.  The main
+roads are kept very fairly, a certain number of men being told off for
+each section at 9s. per day wages.  The old corduroy roads, formed by
+laying trees across the track and filling the interstices with earth, are
+being gradually superseded by Macadam.  The men seemed to work in very
+leisurely fashion.  We were to have breakfasted at a cottage on the road,
+but when we arrived there found that the old lady who kept it had gone to
+a ball at some village public-house, several miles away, as also had the
+owners of all the other cottages along the route.  A little girl left in
+charge told us that after the ball all these good people were going to
+the funeral of the wine grower and innkeeper previously mentioned, and
+our friend told us they would doubtless stay there to comfort the widow
+as long as there was any wine left in the house.  We soon after entered
+the region of the big gum trees and of the tree ferns, and a wonderfully
+beautiful sight it was.
+
+                          [Picture: A Big Tree]
+
+The whole valley is filled with tree ferns, and the fronds, in many cases
+being new, with the sunlight falling upon them, formed a picture not soon
+to be forgotten.  Some of the gum trees were enormously large--we saw
+several 15ft. in diameter and over 200ft. in height--but these were small
+when compared with some found in the less frequented parts.  In the midst
+of such surroundings lies the pretty little village of Fernshaw.  When we
+were first invited to spend a week at the country house of our friend we
+rather unreasonably pictured in our minds an English country or seaside
+residence, and anticipated much pleasure in the change from dusty
+Melbourne.  Our surprise was great, therefore, when after jolting over
+some half-formed roads we came upon a clearing among the gum trees, and
+were told that the wooden shanty before us was the Melbourne citizen's
+country house.  We were not disposed, however, to be very critical, for
+the sixty miles drive in the mountain air had made us hungry, and we were
+quite ready to respond to the invitation to the evening meal.  But our
+disillusion was complete upon entering the sitting room and finding that
+no provision had been made for the satisfying of our keen appetites.  By
+some accident the supplies from Melbourne had not arrived; the rough
+table was covered with a couple of towels, and on it was spread a repast
+consisting of some bad bread and sour raspberry jam, while the "cup which
+cheers but not inebriates" was innocent of milk and sugar.  It was
+Saturday evening and we were "out of humanity's reach," being many miles
+from any source of supply, so had to content ourselves as best we might
+with this Spartan fare until the Monday, when our host proposed an
+excursion to a distant part, involving the staying a night at an hotel.
+We gladly embraced the proposal, and finding that the hotel was a
+comfortable one I determined to excuse myself from joining in the
+excursion on the following day in order that I might have the opportunity
+of recruiting nature's exhausted powers by an extra meal, a resolution I
+had much satisfaction in carrying into effect.  Our friend and his sons
+own about one thousand acres, at present covered with trees, with the
+exception of a small clearing round the house.  When a piece of land is
+taken, the first care is to fence it, which is done with logs, at a cost
+of 25 per mile, including the cutting of the logs.  The next step is to
+"ring" the trees--that is, to cut a deep groove round them, and so by
+killing them prevent any further exhaustion of the soil.  The trees being
+dead, vegetation rapidly springs up, and there is soon abundance of food
+for cattle.  Clearing the ground of trees and stumps is a very costly
+operation, and takes many years to finally accomplish.  The Government
+with a view of preventing the accumulation of lands in a few hands,
+refuse to sell more than 320 acres to one person, but of course this is
+easily evaded.  At the time of our visit the price was 1 per acre,
+payable in ten years by equal instalments, a condition being that some
+one should reside upon the allotment.  At the end of three years the
+owner can obtain from Government a lease of the land, and can then pay up
+the full value, which leaves him at liberty to sell if he wishes to do
+so.  Of course the building up of large estates is thus encouraged, but
+this could, perhaps, be prevented by imposing a tax on every acre.  The
+20,000 acre men would soon be compelled to dispose of some of the land
+which they hold in the expectation that it will increase in value.  Such
+a plan has been proposed, but it naturally met with great opposition from
+the landed interest.
+
+                       [Picture: On the Black Spur]
+
+Leaving our friend's house a drive of a few miles through the bush
+brought us to the picturesquely-situated village of Marysville.  This
+little village lies in a deep hollow surrounded by fine ranges of
+tree-clad hills of extreme beauty.  A pleasant hour's walk from the
+village, under the shade of the tree ferns, took us to the Stephenson
+Falls.  The principal fall is 80ft., and the volume of water is unusually
+large for an Australian waterfall.  Close to the fall are some
+magnificently large tree ferns, and while sitting here enjoying the
+lovely view some little birds came flitting about, one of them hopping on
+to the shoulder of one of our party, attracted, doubtless, by the aroma
+of a fragrant "weed" which at the time he was enjoying.  English visitors
+to Australia, especially those in search of health, would find the
+conditions existing at Marysville most conducive to their restoration.
+The air is bracing, and as before stated, the scenery most delightful.  A
+tolerably good accommodation is to be had at the inn, which will
+doubtless be improved as the place becomes more widely known.
+
+Returning to Melbourne, we stayed another night at Healesville, arriving
+at 7.30, and as we had fared badly during the day we were quite ready for
+a substantial dinner, and from our previous experience of the house made
+no doubt of obtaining it.  But unfortunately for us, there had been a
+chapel tea-party during the afternoon, at which a large force of parsons
+had been present.  We had therefore to be content with a tough, woody
+steak, a wild duck of ancient and fish-like smell, varied by salted
+mutton.  The butter was rancid and full of dead flies, and the bread
+appeared to have been cast upon the waters.  We had to go to bed feeling
+quite faint, but hoping for a better breakfast.  The beds were good, and
+we should have had a good night's rest, which we sorely needed after the
+twig beds of the previous night at the Marysville Hotel, but the
+partitions between the rooms being only of half-inch plank everything
+passing around us could be heard all too plainly.  A little after
+midnight some fellows came in from night-fishing, and going into the room
+next ours woke us up by a great noise.  One old donkey was telling the
+two younger ones he had had a deal of experience among snakes, killing as
+many as eight a day for many years, and that as the result of a series of
+experiments during that time he had found an infallible cure for snake
+bites.  He had offered his discovery to the Government for 1,000, and his
+partner offered to be poisoned by the most deadly snakes to test its
+efficacy, but all to no purpose.  So he had determined to let the secret
+die with him.  The others asked if the sovereign remedy was to be
+swallowed.  "Oh, no," said the old fellow, "for it is composed of five
+deadly poisons.  You must first cut out the wounded part, and rub the
+antidote in.  But," added he, "the secret shall now die with me."  "But
+how about your partner?" asked the others.  "Won't he tell the secret?"
+"Oh no," was the reply; "he's safe enough, for he's dead."  Then we heard
+the voice of the landlord's pretty daughter telling them it was time to
+go to sleep, upon which the old boy growled, "I wonder people can't go to
+sleep without bothering me."  The rest of the night was made miserable
+for us by the two "night fishers," who, rising long before dawn, went
+prowling about the different rooms, ours included, collecting their
+tackle for a shooting expedition, but leaving behind them, as we found
+afterwards, their percussion caps.
+
+                         [Picture: The Lyre Bird]
+
+We returned to Melbourne by another route, affording us some fine views
+of the plains called Yarra Flats, and the Marysville Hills in the far
+distance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+At the end of January we left Melbourne for a few weeks' tour in
+Tasmania, taking steamer from the wharf on the Yarra Yarra, the river
+upon which the capital of Victoria is situated.
+
+The banks of the Yarra have been selected as the scene of the operations
+of all the most offensive trades in the colony--the bone boilers,
+tanners, fellmongers, candle makers, chemical manure makers, glue
+manufacturers, etc., in addition to which all the sewage which is not
+left on the surface of the streets is run into it.  The river is very
+narrow, the fall to the sea extremely slight, and the traffic great,
+hence at every revolution of the paddle-wheel or screw-propeller the
+abominations from the depths below are stirred up and mingled with those
+coming from the before-named savoury factories, forming a more horrible
+compound than ever proceeded from witches' cauldron.  In this one respect
+the New World has certainly shot far ahead of the old, for even the
+memory of ancient Cologne is made savoury to the nostrils by this
+colonial stench.
+
+Our friends came to say good-bye, and brought quite a sack of peaches and
+apricots, which were very acceptable during the voyage.  If there were on
+board any roysterers or betting men they had no opportunity for
+displaying their peculiarities.  Until we reached the entrance to the
+river Tamar almost every person on board was ill, for Bass's Straits is
+notorious for its disagreeable cross seas.
+
+Launceston is forty miles up the river, and is the capital of the county
+of Cornwall, as in England.  The scenery along the river banks is very
+beautiful, and is so exactly like the Truro river at home that it is
+difficult to believe we are out of England.  The river is winding and
+broad, and the shores slope gently down from high ground covered with
+trees.  Here and there are bright green meadows and villages and
+scattered farmsteads and churches.  I saw nothing in Victoria to compare
+with it.
+
+Launceston, a quiet city of 10,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by hills.
+Looking down upon it, one is reminded of Florence from Fiesole, the
+beautiful climate and clear air being quite Italian, with the lovely
+Tamar winding its circuitous route for miles away.  We drove out towards
+a place called the "Devil's Punch Bowl," walking the last mile through a
+beautiful wood down a hill, with firs, gum trees, etc., in abundance,
+with here and there delightful glimpses of green glades.  The air was
+filled with the sounds of the tree locusts and the tremendous hissing
+noise of the cicadas, the sun shining through the trees and producing a
+temperature and light which were simply perfect.  The only drawback is
+the presence of snakes, which, our driver said, are very abundant here.
+The scene is truly English.  At the bottom of the little wooded valley we
+came upon an old wooden shanty, where we tried to get a glass of milk,
+but there was no one at home.  Presently an old man appeared, driving
+cows.  We asked him for milk--he had none, but gave us water, and offered
+raw eggs.  My companion took two, and said he liked them, but I am sure
+he liked the first best.  The old man was seventy-three years of age, and
+lived there alone, sleeping on a door covered with an opossum rug.  He
+told us his master died there close by the bee-hives a few weeks ago,
+"so," said he, "I put the bees in deep mourning, or they would all have
+left."
+
+I wrote my notes sitting on a gatepost, out of the way of snakes; the
+moon shone brightly, and in the distance I could hear the church bells,
+mingled with the voices of children, the tinkling of cowbells, and
+barking of dogs.
+
+The shops close at six o'clock, but the public-houses of course remain
+open.  I observed a small fruit-shop, a mere shanty, with the sign of
+"Pomona's Temple," and a hairdresser's saloon with the high-sounding name
+of "Tonsorial Palace," while a democratic opponent in the same street,
+with a proud humility, called his place of business a "Barber's Shop."
+
+Strolling in the town one evening I talked with a policeman, who was an
+almost exact counterpart of Count Moltke.  He had just received his new
+regulation helmet, and did not like it at all: it was hard and heavy.  He
+was very pleased to hear we liked Tasmania better than Victoria.  "Ah,"
+said he, "you will find real hospitality here; here everybody helps
+everybody, but in Melbourne everybody helps himself, and the bobby or
+somebody catches the hindmost."  He said he had been a policeman for
+twenty years, and, "although I say it as shouldn't, I will say for the
+Launceston police, they are the most civillest, honestest body of
+policemen going," with which I quite agreed.
+
+Another beautiful ride is to the Cora Linn, seven miles from Launceston.
+On one side of the road, stretching almost the whole distance, is a hedge
+of sweetbriar, giving forth delicious perfume.  It is difficult to get
+accustomed to the reversal of the seasons; here in February the farmers
+are busy cutting and saving their corn, but with no fear of rain to spoil
+their harvest, as in England.  A bridge crosses the Linn, and a
+cataract-like stream tumbles down over rocks, very much like the Lynn at
+Lynmouth.  Below the bridge is a deep basin, and all around are numbers
+of queer trees, young and old, with many burnt-out trunks black as
+negroes, with white spots in them like eyes.  The trees and shrubs are
+full of _cicadas_ making a great noise.
+
+Leaving Launceston, we drove to Falmouth, ninety miles away.  The road
+lies through a beautifully-wooded country; indeed, the entire ride is
+just like going through a park in England.  We saw lots of magpies, very
+much larger than ours, but quite as mischievous.  A gentleman told us a
+person once asked him to change a sovereign, which he did, and then
+looked for the sovereign, but it could not be seen.  Presently, looking
+up, he saw Master Mag in a shrub, with one eye shut, his head on one
+side, and standing on one leg, with the piece of gold in his mouth.
+
+Our first night's stopping-place was at Stoney Creek, where there is a
+comfortable hotel, just like a private house, with only one other house
+for miles around.  Near to the hotel flows the River Esk, a black,
+silent, swiftly-flowing and suicidal-looking stream, suggestive in its
+motion of some huge black snake, of which there are many in the
+neighbourhood.  In crossing a field to look at the river our clothes
+became covered with burrs and spines from the prickly pear.  We sat down
+on a grassy mound to watch the flowing of the river, but had quickly to
+move, as we found ourselves in the midst of a colony of great ants.  The
+following verses were written on the occasion by one of my companions:
+
+                [Picture: THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES--A POEM]
+
+                                 THOU AND I.
+
+    Thou art in happy England
+       With peace, content, and joy,
+    And there no poisonous reptiles
+       Thy comfort can destroy;
+    No hissing sound the startled ear
+       With fear of death awakes--
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, in the land of snakes.
+
+    About thy household duties
+       Serenely thou canst go,
+    No fear of fierce tarantulas
+       Or scorpion brings thee woe;
+    And day by day flows calmly on,
+       And sleep wings through the night--
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, where mosquitos bite.
+
+    Thou hast the trusty faithful dog,
+       The quiet, harmless cat,
+    But I the fierce Tasmanian D--,
+       Opossum, and wombat;
+    Familiar objects greet thy sight,
+       Here all is strange and new--
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, with the kangaroo.
+
+    Thou hast the blithe canary,
+       The robin chirps to thee,
+    While here the magpies chatter
+       And rail from every tree;
+    Bright parrots glint beneath the sun,
+       And shriek their hideous song--
+    Thou art in happy England,
+       I, wattle-birds among.
+
+    Thou canst recline in any place,
+       And watch the moments pass,
+    Here burrs and prickles fill the clothes
+       While lying on the grass,
+    They stick into the flesh, and sting
+       Like gnat, or wasp, or bee--
+    But thou in happy England
+       From all such plagues art free.
+
+    Hurrah for happy England,
+       For all the folk at home!
+    From hill and dale resounds the cry,
+       No matter where we roam.
+    Rare scenes of beauty greet the sight,
+       The balmy air is sweet,
+    But still I sigh for England
+       Where thou and I shall meet.
+
+    DR. L--.
+
+The landlady was a widow, her husband having recently died.  Her son had
+just returned from sea, where he had been for twelve years.  He had been
+wrecked three times, and the last time should have given him enough of
+the sea for the rest of his life.  It was in the ship "Euxine," taking
+3,000 tons of coal to the Mauritius.  She took fire off the Cape of Good
+Hope in the midst of a terrific storm.  The captain was washed overboard
+and drowned; a sailor was also swept away, and while only twenty feet
+from the ship was attacked by a flock of albatrosses, right in sight of
+his comrades.  He fought with them, but all in vain, and the wretches
+literally pulled him in pieces with their strong bills in a very few
+minutes.  The crew got out the boats, but of course they were in a bad
+state.  It was, however, a choice between burning and drowning, so they
+put off, preferring to risk the latter.  After two or three days, two of
+the boats were picked up, but the third was out for eleven days.  The
+poor wretches on board had nothing whatever to eat, and in their
+extremity were driven to cast lots which among them should die.  One
+unhappy man was disposed of, and in two hours after a ship came in sight
+and picked them up.
+
+A lovely drive through Epping Forest brought us to Avoca, where "the
+bright waters meet," the North and South Esk uniting here.  Our route lay
+along a fine road, through avenues of gum trees, wattles (acacias),
+cultivated for their bark, the sweetbriars and hawthorns scenting the air
+delightfully.  We saw a splendid eagle, and large numbers of parrots,
+magpies, and hawks.
+
+                             [Picture: Avoca]
+
+On our way we passed many residences of great woolgrowers, owning as much
+as 20,000 acres of land each, but living, for the most part, in England,
+their affairs in the Colony being managed by agents.  They keep only one
+man on each 5,000 acres.  There is scarcely any agriculture, although the
+land is very suitable, but being taken up in this way, there is no room
+for population to increase, and the people have to emigrate.
+
+At Fingal we stopped at an hotel, kept by an Irishman married to a
+Jewess.  They presided at either end of the table, and kept us short of
+food; indeed, I never saw a small joint go so far before.  Next day we
+left the hotel, still hungry, although the charges were quite as high as
+those at the Great Western Hotel, Paddington.
+
+Soon after leaving Fingal we saw something by the roadside which looked
+very like a snake, and on examining it we found it was one--a black
+snake, 4ft. 6in. long.  It lay perfectly still, and presently we found it
+was dead; but the sensation was not pleasant.  A gentleman at the hotel
+told us he had killed four the night previously, and doubtless this was
+one of them.
+
+                          [Picture: St. Mary's]
+
+After passing through the charming village of St. Mary's, embowered in
+trees, we entered a lovely avenue, two miles in length, filled with
+beautiful flowers and ferns, the air laden with scents from the gum and
+other trees, and on emerging came upon St. Mary's Pass.  This is an
+immense gorge, four miles long, filled with fine trees, the road, which
+is remarkably good, being cut in the side of the cliff by convicts in the
+old days of Van Diemen's Land.  It winds down the valley to the sea at
+Falmouth, and on either side rise lofty hills, while the valley below is
+1,000 feet deep, and filled with immense trees of various kinds,
+including the tree fern.  I have seen most of the passes and valleys in
+the Tyrol, but have never seen one to excel this in grandeur or beauty.
+
+                        [Picture: Falmouth Hotel]
+
+In the map the word "Falmouth" was printed in rather large letters, so we
+expected to find a somewhat considerable place.  At the head of the pass
+we were told the township lay between the foot of the hill and the sea.
+On getting down the hill we could plainly view the sea and the
+intervening land, but no town was visible.  Inquiring of some little boys
+the way to Falmouth, they directed us away to the right.  We went on,
+feeling assured we were going wrong; and presently, meeting a gentleman,
+we inquired again, when he told us to retrace our course, to go through
+an ordinary field gate, and that we should then get to Falmouth in three
+minutes!  We told him that the little boys had directed us the other way,
+but he said we should have asked for "Hotel."  The town of Falmouth,
+where the boys lived, consisted of two or three houses, and was a mile
+from the hotel.  On exploring the place next day we were informed that
+fifty years before it was much more important than now.  Miles of streets
+were marked out, but were grass-grown, and there were not more than a
+dozen houses in the place, all built of wood,
+
+                   [Picture: Burial-Place at Falmouth]
+
+and of one storey in height.  The burying-place for the district is about
+a mile away, on the open common, each grave being surrounded with stakes,
+with no wall or fence enclosing the whole.  It was a melancholy sight,
+reminding me strongly of the graves on the battlefields of the
+Franco-German war.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+The beach and sands are very fine, like those of my native county.  The
+bathing is delightful, but you must keep a sharp look out for sharks.
+One morning, however, while bathing, we stood in much greater danger from
+the mad folly of some Cockneys who had recently come to the hotel.  We
+had been bathing in an arm of the sea, the point beyond which it was not
+safe being marked by a stake driven into the sand.  Between our bathing
+place and the hotel was a high sand bank, screening us from sight, the
+stake being visible from the verandah of the hotel.  After dressing, we
+were leisurely walking up the sandbank towards the hotel, when we were
+startled by a bullet passing between our heads and lodging in the sand
+behind us!  We threw up our towels and shouted, and then saw the Cockney
+sportsman standing on the platform under the verandah, from whence he had
+been aiming at the stake in the sand with his rifle for the past half
+hour.  On examination we found the sand riddled with bullets, not 50ft.
+from where we had been bathing.  The little burying ground possessed a
+new significance in our eyes after this incident.  We found some
+beautiful sea-shells during a delightful walk along the beach towards
+Swansea, and on our return called upon the gentleman who put us right for
+Falmouth on our arrival.  He is a farmer from near Oxford, and had been
+here seven or eight years, finding it a terribly lonely place.  Recently
+his nine children and his servants took the measles, and his wife being
+ill, he had to nurse them all.  When they got well his wife sickened and
+died, leaving him with seven daughters and two sons, the eldest being
+only fourteen years old.  The nearest doctor lived more than thirty miles
+away.
+
+In order to get to Hobart Town, we had to retrace our steps some sixty
+miles, as there is only one road on this side of the island.  We stayed a
+night at Avoca, a charming place, but the roads were a foot deep in dust.
+Although the climate is so fine, and everything favours the growth of
+fruit, there is very little grown.  It is alleged that fruit trees do not
+prosper, but I had ample evidence that the cause is to be found in the
+indifference or laziness of the people.  Strolling in the neighbourhood
+of the village, we came upon a beautiful orchard, and were admiring the
+large, ripe plums, when a voice behind said, "Walk in, gentlemen, and
+help yourselves."  The speaker was a hearty old man, who had lived here
+forty-six years.  He came from Ledbury, and was much interested in
+hearing about Birmingham.  He told us that the day before he left England
+he walked from Ledbury to Birmingham to see the Nelson statue in the Bull
+Ring.
+
+The old man told us a snake story, which strikingly illustrates the
+vitality of these reptiles.  A short time previously he and his son went
+across a neighbouring mountain on horseback to visit one of their farms.
+Going "single file" between the trees, the son, who was leading, suddenly
+called out to his father, "Look out, there's a snake," and at the same
+instant his horse started.  The old gentleman got off, and finding it was
+a "carpet snake,"--one of the most venomous species--caught up a stick,
+and aimed a blow at it.  The stick however was rotten, and broke without
+hurting the reptile, which now prepared to strike; but the old man
+managed to get his heel upon its head, and ground it into the earth; and
+having, as he thought, killed it, tied a piece of string around its
+middle, and bending a wattle tree down, attached the end of the string to
+one of the branches, and then released the tree.  They thought no more of
+the matter until three days after, when two of his men, returning from
+his farm with a cart, were seen by their master dragging a snake behind
+the cart.  He asked them where they caught it; they explained that while
+coming down the hill side, their attention was arrested by a snake in a
+tree clashing towards them, but unable to release itself.  On
+examination, they found it was tied up!  "So that after all," said the
+old man, "it was only scotched, not killed."
+
+A fellow-traveller on the coach told us that he was coming from the tin
+mines near Mount Bischoff, and that for some months he and his partner
+had slept in hammocks slung from trees.  One night, just as he was going
+to sleep, something dropped from the tree across his body.  He took it in
+his hand, and finding it was a snake, he flung it from him, when it
+alighted on his companion.  Luckily, both escaped unhurt.  He also told
+me of the experience of a friend of his, a Government surveyor, who was
+frequently in the woods for weeks together, with one or two men.  This
+gentleman slept in a hammock suspended from trees.  The hammock was in
+reality a sack, hanging some feet from the ground, into which he got at
+night.  One night he had retired as usual, and being very wearied, did
+not at once notice that there was independent movement at his feet.  Very
+soon, however, he realised the fact that a snake had gone to bed before
+him, and was coiling itself round his legs.  The gentleman quickly got
+out, unhurt, and soon killed the snake.
+
+I also read in a colonial paper another account of a night adventure with
+a snake.  A lady had retired to rest, and was fast asleep; the weather
+being very hot, one of her arms was outside the clothes, and during the
+night she was awakened by feeling something trying to force its way
+between her arm and her side; she quickly realised the situation, and
+without moving, tightly pressed her arm against her body and prevented
+the venomous reptile from getting between, when presently it glided over
+her shoulder and fell on the floor with a thud.  She was soon out of bed
+at the other end, and calling for help and a light the snake was quickly
+despatched.
+
+The doctor in this place has charge of a district sixty miles in
+diameter, and always expects his fees before leaving his house; but
+although he has so large a district, I question if he makes his fortune,
+for although acres are many, people are few, and the salubrity of the
+climate does not favour the medical profession.
+
+The main road between Launceston and Hobart is struck at Willis's Corner,
+a few miles from Campbelltown--the principal town in the interior of the
+island.  There is a station here on the main-line railway.  The gauge of
+the line is thirty-nine inches, I think.
+
+Campbelltown is a straggling place, with streets enough laid out for a
+city, but with only few houses, and it is not likely many more will be
+built, as the railway is expected to take away its trade, which depends
+mainly upon the coach traffic.  The streets are about one hundred and
+twenty feet wide, which is greatly in excess of all requirements, and
+causes the traffic to run in ruts, instead of being distributed over the
+roadway, giving a desolate appearance to the whole place.  As a rule, the
+Tasmanian roads are very good, having been made in the old days by
+convict labour, but you must not venture to mention the word "convict;"
+the people all speak of these public works as having been executed by
+Government.  Having had so much done for them by the Government, the
+Tasmanian people are lacking in energy, and are much too prone to rely
+upon outside help; and yet when Melbourne people come over to invest
+capital in mines and other industries, the cry is that the strangers are
+taking all the money out of the country.  As I have said, the farms are
+of a great size, but the number of men engaged are but few.  The farmers
+have two great enemies--the thistle and the rabbit.  It is said the
+former was introduced into the colonies by a patriotic Scotchman, to
+remind him of his bonnie Scotland, the rabbit being introduced for the
+purpose of sport; but, like our old friend the sparrow, they have so
+increased as to be the cause of serious loss, and are the subjects of
+special legislation.  Some landowners spend many thousands of pounds in
+putting walls around their estates to keep the rabbits out.
+
+From Campbelltown to Hobart is seventy-six miles, and we rode the whole
+distance in a single day.  The country is very beautiful, and towards the
+end of the journey we had fine mountain and river scenery.  The Derwent
+is a splendid river, running through a lovely country, sometimes through
+rich pasture lands and hop gardens, and at other times between high
+precipices and rugged country.
+
+Mount Wellington is a remarkably fine mountain of 4,000 feet in height,
+and is topped with snow for a considerable portion of the winter.
+
+                  [Picture: Summit of Mount Wellington]
+
+Villages are very scarce on the road, and shops few, so the inhabitants
+get most of their requirements from hawkers, who visit all parts of the
+island with horses and vans, carrying all kinds of goods.  We passed
+several with their wares spread out on the ground.  Our coachman told us
+rather a good story of two of these "merchants," as they are usually
+called.  These men travelled the road together as partners, having a
+standing agreement between them that only one should get drunk at a time,
+so that they were not unfrequently seen riding, one of them as drunk as a
+lord or a fiddler, while the other was perfectly sober, but merry.  One
+day, however, they broke the rule, and both got drunk together, letting
+their horse go just as it liked.  Unhappily, as they were turning a
+corner in the road, a coach came bowling along and ran into them,
+breaking their van and many of their bones, besides spoiling most of
+their stock-in-trade.  The coachman could not tell us if the accident had
+the effect of making the men teetotallers.
+
+              [Picture: View in the Public Gardens, Hobart]
+
+Hobart (as Hobart Town is now called) is most beautifully situated, with
+extensive public gardens, charmingly laid out, and having the advantage
+of an abundance of water from the River Derwent.  The Governor's house is
+admirably placed, commanding extensive views of river and mountain
+scenery.  The citizens are exceedingly hospitable, and we were not long
+at the hotel before we were visited by a gentleman who informed us he had
+entered our names on the books of the principal club, and also invited us
+to a grand representation of "Martha."  There are many charming
+excursions in the neighbourhood of Hobart.  One of the most beautiful is
+to New Norfolk, about two and a half hours' steam up the Derwent river.
+As we approach New Norfolk the river gets very narrow, and we pass
+through a part called "Hell Gates," having steep lofty cliffs on one
+side, and a beautiful tongue of land with trees and lovely green grass on
+the other.  The name I thought particularly ill chosen.
+
+The village of New Norfolk is prettily situated among the hills, with the
+lovely Derwentwater at its feet.  Its principal industry is the growing
+of hops.  We went into the gardens, and saw the people busily picking the
+hops, which were very fine.
+
+Another beautiful excursion is to Fern Tree Valley, a lovely spot with a
+fine avenue of tree ferns, and with many immense gum trees in the
+surrounding woods.
+
+There being no steamer to Sydney or Melbourne for a week, we drove over
+the road to Launceston, 120 miles distant.  Soon after leaving Hobart we
+crossed the River Jordan, passed through Jericho, near to Jerusalem,
+stopping at Bagdad for breakfast.
+
+Although February had just gone, the weather was still intensely hot.
+The harvest was nearly over, and the wheat looked beautiful.  I saw some
+eight feet high, and a person told me he had frequently seen it grow as
+high as ten feet.  Lunching at Melton Mowbray, we came on to Oatlands,
+driving the last few miles by moonlight, the night being very cool.
+
+At Oatlands is a large gaol, where in old times a number of England's
+sons were confined, many of them having been sent there for political
+"offences," which in our happier times have conducted the best of
+Englishmen to the Council Board at Windsor.  The gaol is now almost
+untenanted.  In passing along we saw the ruins of many of the miserable
+old barracks, where the convicts used to live.  Everything looks half
+finished, and I have scarcely seen one window blind furnished with cords
+for winding; they roll them up and pin them, consequently the blind is
+full of pin holes.  We stopped a night at the best hotel in Campbelltown,
+a really well-appointed
+
+                  [Picture: Our Waiter at Campbelltown]
+
+house; but on trying to open the front door, the knob came off in my
+hand!  We greatly enjoyed our three weeks' stay in Tasmania; in many
+respects it is more interesting than the mainland, while the climate is
+much more agreeable to Englishmen.  A pleasant passage of twenty hours
+brought us to Melbourne again, and the weather being still very hot, we
+decided to go on to Sydney by steamer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+The run down Hobson's Bay to Port Philip Heads takes about four hours,
+and just inside the mouth of the harbour are two little watering-places,
+much frequented by the citizens of Melbourne.
+
+Presently we come to a curious feature in the water.  The currents of the
+bay and those of the open sea meet, and produce at their junction the
+phenomenon locally known as "The Rip."  All at once, as the steamer comes
+out of the bay, we pass from smooth water into the regular waves of the
+sea; there is almost a wall between, and as the vessel passes through it
+a rushing sound is heard, the vessel instantly beginning to roll and
+pitch.  In rough weather passing through "The Rip" is quite exciting, the
+water frequently rushing over the decks.
+
+                        [Picture: Sydney Harbour]
+
+After a voyage of a little more than two days, we arrived outside the
+heads of Port Jackson or Sydney Harbour.  Everyone has heard of the
+extreme beauty of this glorious harbour; indeed if the visitor stays a
+few days in the city he is likely to hear of it many times.  The entrance
+is about a mile in width, between bold cliffs 250 feet in height.  It has
+a coast line of more than 100 miles, and is full of beautiful creeks and
+bays, with their banks finely wooded to the water's edge, and having
+numerous handsome villas picturesquely placed upon every point of
+vantage, the city being situated at the head of the bay.  The old town of
+Sydney is very badly laid out, with narrow, crooked streets, while the
+pavements and roads are most execrable, and the drainage and water supply
+are as bad as they can well be.  The public buildings, and the modern
+portion of the city, are very fine, the post-office in particular being a
+very handsome edifice, infinitely superior to the new post-office in
+Birmingham; but then the citizens of Sydney built their own, while the
+citizens of Birmingham were not consulted, and had to accept what the
+London architect was graciously pleased to bestow.
+
+Next to the harbour, the public gardens of Sydney form its principal
+attraction.  The Botanical Gardens are exceedingly fine, and contain a
+magnificent collection of almost every known tree that will stand the
+climate.  A special feature is the Norfolk Island pine, which grows to a
+great height, perfectly straight, and with very regular branches.  The
+gardens are finely situated on undulating ground, sloping down to the
+harbour, which is sufficiently deep 200 yards off to float men-of-war.
+From these gardens a fine view of the Governor's house and of other parts
+of the city is obtained.  There is also a beautiful view from the
+Observatory Hill, which the Sydney people are justly proud of, for it can
+scarcely be equalled in any other part of the world.  The harbour, with
+its numerous islands, lies spread out before the eyes, while the greatest
+animation is given to the scene by the large number of little steamers,
+yachts, and sail-boats continually flitting about, for the youth of
+Sydney are truly British in their love of the water.  While we were
+admiring this panorama one morning, an old gentleman, observing we were
+strangers, pointed out the various objects of interest.  Presently one of
+our party observing a strange cloud in the hitherto cloudless sky, called
+the old man's attention to it.  At first he thought it was a bush fire
+away to the south, but in a minute he said, "Come on, we had better get
+under shelter, for it is a 'southerly buster!'"
+
+A "southerly buster" is one of the institutions of Sydney, and is a
+hurricane of wind: which comes up suddenly from the south, bringing
+clouds of dust from the brickfields lying on that side of the city.  We
+had long been wishing to see a genuine example, and here it was with a
+vengeance.  In less time than it takes to describe, the whole city and
+harbour were completely obscured by a tremendous cloud of dust, blown on
+at a great pace, roaring like a furnace, and carrying before it sticks,
+paper, and even small gravel, which strike with the force of hailstones.
+During the twenty minutes which the hurricane lasts umbrellas are
+perfectly useless, and every person and thing becomes completely covered
+with dust.  Having experienced the "buster" once, we have no desire for a
+repetition.
+
+Sydney is fortunate in possessing almost inexhaustible supplies of
+oysters, and the old gentleman referred to above told us they sometimes
+grew on trees!  There is a tree called the Mangrove, which grows very
+plentifully on the banks of the Parramatta river; sometimes the water is
+very high for days together, and the oyster spawn gets fixed in the mud
+on the branches, and so they grow and are gathered in their season.
+
+One of the most delightful excursions from Sydney is to the top of the
+Blue Mountains, where there are several villages and some exceedingly
+fine and interesting scenery.  The summit of the mountains is about
+3,500ft. above sea-level, and is seventy miles from Sydney, being reached
+by a picturesque zigzag railway.  In the old convict days it was commonly
+supposed by the prisoners that China lay on the other side of the Blue
+Mountain range, and many of the wretched men lost their lives in the
+jungle in trying to escape to the celestial country; one party succeeded
+in getting to a considerable distance before the guard overtook them, and
+one of them was found to have in his possession an engraving of a
+compass, by which he expected to steer his way!
+
+The railway from Sydney passes many charming villages and extensive
+orange groves, crossing the River Nepean by a handsome iron bridge.
+
+Some of the hotels on the mountain are of a very primitive character.
+One of those in which we stayed was a single-storied building, with
+bed-rooms opening into the yard.  The house was built of planks, and the
+partitions were not very thick.  I found that the landlord was the
+brother of an English tradesman with whom I do business.  They had not
+heard of one another for forty years, which was a suspicious
+circumstance, considering the history of the colony.
+
+                   [Picture: Cottage at Mount Victoria]
+
+In the fireplace of our sitting room we found a "gin" set for rats, which
+during the night were quite lively.  One morning we observed that our
+waiter seemed to be very anxious for us to finish our breakfast.
+Presently he asked if we had finished with the coffee-pot, saying that
+all the others had been sent to be mended, and as he had a rather
+particular couple in the next room, he did not like to take in the coffee
+in a tea-pot
+
+At Mount Victoria, the highest village on the mountain, there are good
+State schools, to which the children come for twenty-five miles round
+from the villages along the railway.  Both schools and railways in New
+South Wales belong to the State, and the schoolchildren are allowed to
+ride free by all trains.  Even the goods trains have carriages attached
+for the use of the children, and the school hours are arranged to enable
+them to take advantage of the trains.  Mount Victoria is a beautiful
+village, where many of the wealthy citizens of Sydney have charming
+residences.  It has quite an alpine appearance with its wooden houses and
+tree-clad hills.  In the neighbourhood are many delightful places, to
+which excursions are made; one of the most interesting is to a waterfall
+called "Govett's Leap."  The road is a very rough one, and goes through
+the forest, in which are numbers of large ant-hills more than 5ft. in
+height, and formed of clay, which has become so hard that a stick makes
+no impression upon them.  The entrances for the little creatures are very
+narrow cracks, too narrow for any of their enemies to get through.
+Sometimes, however, a creature called the "iguana" manages to make its
+way inside, when he always clears the entire colony out.
+
+                    [Picture: The Weatherboard Falls]
+
+After a few miles' drive along an almost level road, we come suddenly
+upon the edge of a precipice nearly 1,000 feet deep, down which the
+stream falls forming the waterfall.  The "leap" is about 500 feet, and
+almost all the water becomes spray before it reaches the bottom, its
+appearance reminding us of the Staubbach Falls at Lauterbrunnen.
+
+From the precipice a fine view is obtained for many miles round.  The
+country is broken up into deep ravines or wide gullies, stretching as far
+as the eye can reach, and all wooded, while, except the little waterfall,
+not a drop of water is to be seen.
+
+On the other side of Mount Victoria, towards Bathurst, is another curious
+zigzag railway, at the foot of which is the village of Lithgow, the seat
+of iron and coal industries.  At present the works are of a very
+primitive character, but I have no doubt that at no distant date they
+will assume important proportions.
+
+                    [Picture: Descent to Hartley Vale]
+
+Outside our hotel door the landlord kept his talking parrot, which was
+always saying to the passers-by, "a bucket of beer, a bucket of beer."
+There was a retired missionary staying at the hotel with his wife, and
+one day the old lady told me that she thought they might have taught the
+poor thing something "more Christian."
+
+One evening some drovers from Bathurst camped for the night near to the
+hotel; they put their cattle into a field, and having taken their tents
+from the packhorses, soon made themselves comfortable round their
+camp-fires, the whole scene being very picturesque and gipsy-like.
+
+This used to be the old coach-road before the railway was opened, and
+many a coach has been stopped and robbed by gangs of escaped convicts
+called bushrangers.  People were easily frightened in those days.  A
+woman coming out of a cottage at night has been known to stop a coach,
+and snapping the spring of an old candlestick has ordered the passengers
+to "bail up" and to throw the mail-bags out, which being done under
+terror of the supposed pistol, she commanded them to drive on; the
+coachman of course supposing there was a gang of ruffians lying in wait.
+
+Bushrangers are not yet a thing of the past, for while we were in Sydney
+four were sentenced to death for the murder of a policeman, who was one
+of a party sent in pursuit of the gang.
+
+Hard by our hotel is a solitary graveyard, where lie the bodies of many
+convicts who died while confined in a neighbouring stockade in the old
+transportation days.  A more desolate and melancholy place it would be
+impossible to imagine.  Some of the public-houses have queer mottoes on
+their sign boards.  We observed three not far apart having these
+inscriptions: "Labour in Vain," "The Leisure Hour," "The Rag and Famish."
+A favourite drink amongst the people is sarsaparilla, which is generally
+mentioned on the sign along with the beer.
+
+There are two kinds of birds in the woods about Mount Victoria which make
+a great noise at night; one is called the "Great Goat Sucker," and
+continually cries "more pork, more pork"; while the other, called the
+"Laughing Jackass," or the great kingfisher, makes night hideous by its
+insane laughter; in the day-time, however, it performs a very useful
+service, in waging perpetual war against the snakes.
+
+                     [Picture: The Laughing Jackass]
+
+The ants in Australia are rather formidable creatures.  Some of them are
+more than an inch in length, and one kind, called the "bull-dog," is very
+fierce, and will attack anything; he can run backwards or forwards with
+equal facility, and never turns his back to the foe.  Their hills are
+very large, and a slight tap brings numbers of them out at once, and
+unless you want to be well punished, you had better leave them quickly,
+for their bite is something to be remembered.  One morning while on a
+walk we observed two boys "prodding" an ant-hill; but by the time we had
+come up to them we found them otherwise engaged, for the "bulldogs" had
+got up their clothes and were causing the boys to jump about as though
+they were "possessed;" occasionally they would pause and rub their legs
+with great devotion; and altogether it was apparent they felt their
+position keenly.  As we passed them they gave us a ghastly smile, and I
+think they will let "sleeping bull-dogs lie" in the future.
+
+                     [Picture: The Author Sketching]
+
+During one of my visits to Sydney the political situation was this:--Two
+questions were before the Parliament and country--viz., an Amended
+Education Act, and an Excise Act, by which latter it was proposed to put
+a tax upon colonial beer.
+
+"It happens that a vacancy has occurred in an important constituency, and
+as these questions are greatly agitating the whole country, the election
+is looked forward to with great interest as being a sort of test of the
+public sentiment.  The Government candidate of course supports the two
+measures above referred to, while the opposition candidate is adverse to
+both, the latter being the largest brewer in the Colony, (which of course
+accounts for his opposing the excise duty on beer) and, what is not
+unusual in the case of brewers, he is a decided Churchman, and supporter
+of what he calls 'religious education.'  The whole strength of the
+clergy, publicans, bishops, loafers, avowed atheists, Roman Catholic
+archbishop, priests, and Irish is most heartily with the Church-loving,
+beer-brewing candidate, who is socially much liked, and very strong.  His
+opponent is supported by the whole Liberal party, by large numbers of the
+Churchmen, and by a few Catholics.  The Amended Education Act simply
+provides that whereas at present State aid is given to denominational
+schools it shall now be withdrawn.  The Bible is not read in the schools,
+but the lesson books of the Irish National Schools are used.  Facilities
+are offered to the various denominations to give religious instruction to
+the children in the State schools.  The bishop and clergy of the Church
+of England and the Roman Catholic priests unite heartily with the beer
+interest (as usual), the proposal to tax the beer coming in very
+opportunely to enlist the sympathies and votes of the idle, drunken,
+venal, and dissolute portion of the community.  The bishop takes an
+opportunity of stating publicly how much he is in favour of temperance,
+and his clergy follow suit; the Catholic clergy do the same, and in the
+evenings clergy of both religious denominations appear at public meetings
+in support of the brewer!  The publicans and their followers are relieved
+from saying anything about the tax on beer by the existence of the
+education question, which they heartily oppose, thus avoiding the subject
+in which they have a selfish interest; so it comes to this--Bible says to
+beer, 'I'll support you, although it is rather inconvenient, for am I not
+pledged to temperance?'  Beer says to Bible, 'I'll support you with all
+the strength of my lungs, rendered all the noisier by copious draughts of
+untaxed beer; beer and Bible, Bible and beer for ever!'
+
+"The Roman Catholic clergy anathematise Protestants of all kinds and
+classes, including the Church of England, but the latter joins hands with
+the Roman Catholics and the beer party to gain its ends, the said ends
+being the same with both Churches--viz., the triumph of priestly rule and
+domination."
+
+The answer of the constituency, applauded throughout the length and
+breadth of the land, was to return the Liberal candidate by a majority of
+two to one.
+
+In reference to this election the _Sydney Morning Herald_ said--"Many of
+the advocates for the extension and maintenance of the denominational
+schools lay great stress upon the doctrine that it is not just to deny
+denominational schools to those who prefer them--that if any citizen pays
+the education tax he ought to have the sort of education provided for his
+child that he most desires, and that it is a wrong-doing to his
+conscience if this claim is not regarded.  It is certainly somewhat
+singular that the few advocates of this line of argument are to be found
+in the ranks of the two great churches, which, having been national
+churches, have, to say the least, not distinguished themselves by
+defending the rights of conscience.  In England the march of religious
+liberty has done much to undo Church-inspired legislation against those
+outside the pale of the Church; and that being achieved it sounds
+strangely to hear the 'conscience' argument against a uniform treatment
+of all citizens proceed from a quarter which has not been the home of the
+rights of conscience."
+
+             [Picture: A Bullock Team on the Blue Mountains]
+
+Before leaving Sydney it may be well to describe an overland ride I made
+from Sydney to Melbourne _via_ Wagga Wagga and Albury, at a time previous
+to the completion of the through railway.
+
+Leaving Sydney by the Pullman train at six in the evening, Wagga Wagga is
+reached about ten next morning: During the night we ascended 2,200ft.  A
+large extent of the country is cleared, and, being New Year's Day, it was
+rather strange to our English eyes to see the wheat cut and stacked, and
+harvesting operations going on.
+
+                           [Picture: Bush Hut]
+
+The country through which our track passes is famous for its sheep runs
+and for the high quality of the wool produced in it.  Here and there in
+the bush are occasional labourers' cottages, wretched, uncomfortable
+looking buildings, constructed of rough planks covered with bark.  The
+children we saw had a very uncared-for look.
+
+Wagga Wagga (pronounced Wogga Wogga) covers a large extent of ground, but
+at present the number of houses is few, most of them, however, being well
+built.  From this place we hired a buggy and pair of horses to take us to
+Albury, a distance of some seventy to eighty miles, the charge for which,
+including the services of a smart, bright boy as driver, was 7.
+Immediately on leaving Wagga we got into the "bush" country, and during
+the afternoon passed some large stock "stations."  The land appears to be
+much more fertile than in the neighbourhood of Sydney, with greater depth
+of soil.  We put up for the night at Jerra Jerra, a place consisting of
+two or three wood shanties, one of them being the hotel, and left at 6.30
+next morning, taking breakfast at a somewhat larger group of wood huts
+called Germanton.  Every driver through the "bush" makes his own track
+among the trees, and ours was no exception to the rule; he made long
+detours at intervals, only coming out into the regular road when a creek
+had to be crossed.  We saw many pairs of large magpies, and some other
+birds which the driver informed us build large mud nests.  Then the Great
+Ants, too, are very numerous, so that one dare not sit down anywhere to
+rest.  The flies are also a great pest, and as my companion said, "won't
+take a hint," requiring to be toppled over before they will move.  At
+about seven a.m. we passed the Royal Mail bowling along amongst the
+trees, our driver quickly making a fresh track to avoid the fearful dust
+which it raised.  The coach is a big lumbering machine, painted flaring
+red, and drawn by six horses.  It is licensed to carry sixty-five
+passengers, who can only be got on to it by being packed like herrings in
+a barrel.  The weather being so hot and the dust so great, it must be
+terrible to be cooped up in it with fat people and thin smokers and
+others.  The coaches are hung upon enormous leather "springs," and they
+need them, for the road is so rough, and the coachmen are so daring, that
+the bumping and thumping are terrific.  Each coach is fitted with four
+large reflector lamps, three in front and one behind.
+
+While baiting the horses I had a chat with a farm labourer, who, like a
+great many of the immigrants with whom I have spoken, was sighing for old
+England again.  He told me the ordinary farm labourer's wages here are
+12s. to 15s. a week with board, and that 20s. a week is considered
+exceptionally good, while the great heat, dust, and reptiles are so
+troublesome that most of the labourers wish they were well out of it.
+This man told me his little terrier was killed by a snake a day or two
+before; the poor creature swelled up and died in great agony in ten
+minutes after being bitten; its death, however, was speedily avenged, his
+master killing the snake shortly afterwards.  The landlady said she was
+in great terror of the snakes, which were very numerous.  Near the run
+was a large log, and it was well known that a big black snake had taken
+up his abode there, for he was frequently seen to come out.  In the
+winter season the reptile would very soon have been despatched by the
+same process adopted by the Chinaman when he wanted "roast pig," but this
+being summer, to fire the log meant to cause a general conflagration in
+the bush.
+
+The power of endurance of Australian post-horses is something wonderful;
+yesterday we travelled more than thirty-five miles after one o'clock,
+over a rough bush road, or rather no road at all, bumping up and down in
+a way that must be very trying to the poor animals, as the "path" is
+never certain; and to-day we had to go nearly fifty miles more, the heat
+being intense, and the track covered with dust nearly a foot thick.
+
+                      [Picture: An Up-Country Town]
+
+Our driver, a mere lad of thirteen years, drove on with the greatest
+confidence, never having missed the way once, though there were no
+direction posts, and we did not come across a person or house once in ten
+miles, and were amongst the trees all the time.  Towards evening the
+horses got rather tired, and so did poor "Tommy," the driver, who at
+times had a quiet "weep" to himself, but at last we reached Albury, and
+found our Melbourne friend awaiting us at the hotel.
+
+For hours before, we had in view a fine range of hills, enclosing a large
+extent of country, including the valley along which the River Murray
+runs.  Here we got the blue, purple, and roseate tints on the mountains
+to perfection, and as the sun was going down just as we entered the town
+I thought I had rarely seen a more delightful picture.
+
+There is a thriving, well-to-do look about the place which is very
+enlivening, the houses being well built, with wide verandahs projecting
+from two storeys, the streets straight and wide, and planted on both
+sides with acacias, poplars, and several varieties of pines, the whole
+forming a veritable little paradise.
+
+This being the great centre of the wine-growing industry we were desirous
+of visiting the vineyards and seeing the capacious cellars which are
+formed in the hills, and for which the district is somewhat celebrated,
+but our friend, being very anxious to get back to Melbourne, assured us
+there was "nothing to see here," and told us to wait till we got into
+Victoria, and so hurried us off.
+
+We left Albury at 5.30 on the following morning, driving across the
+Murray to the railway station at Wodonga, the first town on the Victorian
+side, as Albury is the last on the New South Wales side, and the contrast
+between the two is great indeed--just the difference between prosperity
+and decay.  New South Wales, with its Free Trade policy, is fitly
+represented by bright and shining Albury, while Victoria may well read a
+lesson from the decay and ruin into which Wodonga has fallen.  I could
+not help thinking that a dozen such contrasts along the frontiers of the
+two States would do more than anything to settle the fate of Protection.
+Even the omnibus driver was full of the subject, pointing out to us as we
+rode along the difference between the two places.
+
+The railway ride to Melbourne occupies eight hours, although the distance
+is only about 180 miles.  On the way we passed through Euroa, the town
+which was "stuck up," _i.e._, plundered, by the notorious Kelly and his
+gang.  There were only four of these fellows in the gang, but such was
+the terror they inspired that they were able to rob a whole town in broad
+daylight, while a train was passing through the station close by the bank
+from which they took a considerable amount of cash.  Having done this,
+they next ordered all the people into carts, and drove them some miles
+out of the town, ordering them not to stir for four hours under pain of
+death.  Having secured their booty the scoundrels rode off, and for two
+years succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the police, although the
+Government offered a reward of 8,000 for their capture, alive or dead.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+Before leaving the subject of the Australian Colonies a few observations
+on the state of the labour market, and upon the social condition of the
+people, may be interesting.
+
+In most of the Australian colonies Free Trade practically prevails, the
+exception being Victoria.  In this colony the system of Protection is to
+be found in its most pronounced form, almost every imported article of
+manufacture being the subject of a heavy duty.
+
+The avowed object of this system is to encourage immigration by offering
+a premium upon the manufacture of every article in considerable demand in
+the Colony.  I do not know how far this object has been attained as
+concerns immigration, but it is an admitted fact, and one which is
+causing Victorian politicians much anxiety, that the colony fails to
+retain its population.  One result about which there can be no question
+is that this fiscal policy is concentrating the population about the
+large towns, the city of Melbourne presenting the appearance of the chief
+town of an old and populous State.  A ride in any direction into the
+country, however, soon discloses the real nakedness of the land as
+regards inhabitants, the fact being that a very small proportion of the
+immigrants ever get beyond the towns.  An obvious consequence is that the
+natural resources of the country are greatly neglected, and the evil of
+this state of things will be apprehended when it is seen that the
+manufacturing population is increasing in a vastly greater ratio than the
+constituency upon which its trade depends.  Under such conditions the
+dangers of the situation are seriously augmented when depression of trade
+occurs.  Such a state of things arose before the building of the late
+Exhibition in Melbourne.  The building trade and the mechanical
+industries in the city being in a stagnant state, large numbers of people
+found themselves out of employment, their attitude causing the Government
+some anxiety.  The Exhibition was decided upon in the hope that its
+erection would provide employment until trade should revive.  I asked one
+of the Commissioners of the Exhibition what would happen if trade did not
+revive on the completion of the building?  He replied, "Oh, they shall
+take it down again, for it will be useless after the Exhibition is over."
+Surely a notable instance of the dog subsisting by eating its own tail.
+
+A natural result of all this is to produce in the minds of the working
+classes a feeling that the Legislature ought to secure to them a constant
+supply of work at high rates of wages, altogether leaving out of
+consideration the inevitable effect of such a course in checking demand.
+Naturally, each class expects to receive the benefit of this policy, and
+it is not surprising that the example of the manufacturers in demanding
+Protection should be followed, and even bettered, by the working men.
+
+A curious example of this occurred when I was in Australia.  The streets
+of Melbourne, being very wide and long, are peculiarly well adapted for
+the introduction of tramways.  A Bill was introduced into the House
+authorising the construction of an experimental line, but it had to be
+abandoned in consequence of the determined opposition of the cab drivers,
+the majority of whom own the vehicles which they drive.  These men
+argued, naturally enough, that as manufacturing trades were protected
+against foreigners, their business also should be protected against
+competition in the only form in which it could arise.  Doubtless this
+resistance will eventually be overcome, but not without leaving a sense
+of injustice.
+
+While each class seeks to have the benefit of Protection for its own
+manufactures, it also seeks to obtain the benefits of Free Trade for the
+raw material and smaller accessories used in their production.  At the
+time I am referring to, a Tariff Revision Commission was in session, and
+representatives of the various manufacturing trades were examined with
+the view of ascertaining whether any changes were desirable.  In almost
+every case extensive additions to the duty were demanded, eliciting from
+some of the members of the Commission a reminder that on previous
+occasions the representatives of protected industries declared they only
+required the tax to be levied for a limited time in order to enable them
+to establish their business.
+
+The Protectionist newspapers used every means to stir up the various
+trades to avail themselves of the opportunity the Commission afforded of
+making fresh claims.
+
+It so happens that most of the materials used for newspaper printing are
+admitted duty free.  The _Argus_, the leading journal in Victoria, and a
+consistent advocate of Free Trade, took this opportunity of suggesting
+that the proprietors of the Protectionist journals should prove the
+sincerity of their expressed opinions by appearing before the Commission
+and demanding the imposition of a tax upon newspaper materials in the
+interests of "native industry."  Of course the suggestion was not
+adopted, perhaps for this reason, also suggested by the _Argus_, that the
+struggle for existence was already sufficiently severe.
+
+The operative printers also demanded of the Commission that printed books
+should be more heavily taxed, one of their delegates remarking that
+"there was sufficient talent in Victoria to produce their own books,"
+while a manufacturer, with great candour, asked for a little increase
+upon his special productions on the plea that his profit was not "quite
+enough!"
+
+If profits are not enough prices are certainly sufficiently high, as the
+following instance will abundantly show.  At the close of 1882 one
+hundred locomotives were required by the Government of Victoria, and
+although the needs of the country were most urgent--complaints of the
+inefficiency of the service coming in from all sides--the Protectionist
+party in the House demanded that the whole number should be made in the
+Colony, although there was only one firm who could undertake their
+manufacture, and that firm was unable to deliver the first engine under a
+period of ten months, and in addition to this, the total price demanded
+for the contract was 66,000 more than the engines could have been
+procured for without delay in England.  It is admitted that the
+locomotives made in the Colony are much inferior to those imported, while
+in addition to the excess in first cost, the expense of maintaining the
+colonial engines is vastly greater.  I was assured by competent
+authorities on the railways that the colonial engines are frequently
+under repair, and that their life is much shorter than that of their
+English rivals.  The same evil principle is applied to the purchase of
+the miscellaneous stores supplied to the railways, thereby greatly
+enhancing the cost of working.  Instances might be multiplied of the
+mischievous effects of a vicious fiscal policy in a young and undeveloped
+Colony.  It is notorious that the great want of the Colonies is a larger
+population, and the Government in various ways--notably by making grants
+in aid of immigration--offer inducements to bring this result about.  The
+manufacturers also require a larger field for their productions; but the
+working-class element is jealous of this very increase lest it should
+subject labour to competition, unmindful of the fact that there is ample
+room for an infinitely larger population.
+
+Neither the agricultural nor the mining industries of the Colony are
+protected.  As regards the former, public opinion would not permit the
+taxation of food; whilst, in the latter case, the minerals raised are,
+for the most part, exported, there being scarcely any demand for them in
+the Colony.  But, while these industries receive no benefit from the
+fiscal policy of the Colony, they are heavily taxed in support of the
+revenue, for not only are all the machinery and materials used in their
+development subject to more than 25 per cent. import duty, but the cost
+of labour is greatly enhanced by the high wages, which become necessary
+when the purchasing power of money is diminished by Protection.  Every
+year witnesses a considerable expansion of the industries in question;
+and every year the cry becomes louder against the injustice and
+inequality of a system which places the natural resources of the country
+under so great a disadvantage.  In consequence of the urgency of these
+complaints there is now some prospect of a reduction of the duty on
+agricultural and mining machinery.
+
+I have met with men who were always ready to descant upon the advantages
+of Protection, but who, almost in the same breath, have told me they have
+never hesitated to evade the laws when they could do so to advantage, or
+even to break them when it suited their convenience and they could do so
+without much risk, justifying their conduct by saying that it was "quite
+right to cheat the Government when they could, because the Government
+were always ready to cheat them."  In order to circumvent the practices
+of such men as these, the Legislature has been compelled to institute a
+complicated system of accounts in connection with the importation of
+goods, harassing in the last degree to those who have been accustomed to
+do business in a country where trade is unshackled.
+
+In spite of the boasted advantages of Protection, it is evident that some
+manufacturers are not happy under it, as is shown by the fact of my
+having some time ago received from an important manufacturing firm in
+Victoria an application for my business agency in the Colony.  In their
+application, the firm stated that the workpeople in the Colony were so
+very independent and so uncertain that they (the firm in question) would
+rather at any time sell imported articles at a smaller profit than
+manufacture them in their own works.
+
+I have stated that the avowed objects of Protection were the attraction
+of a larger population and the fostering of "native industry."  Now, with
+these very objects in view, the public men of New South Wales have from
+the first adopted and persisted in a policy diametrically opposed to that
+which has for years past been in force in the neighbouring Colony of
+Victoria.  If the principles of Protection be sound, we should expect to
+find in the Free Trade Colony of New South Wales a state of things even
+much worse than I have shown to exist in Victoria.  But what do we find?
+A constantly increasing population; abundance of employment; a vast and
+continually expanding railway system; shipping considerably greater than
+that of the Port of London one hundred years ago; an import and export
+trade greater than that of Great Britain at the same period; in short,
+every evidence of great and enduring prosperity.
+
+As in America, "where acres are many and men are few," the manufacture of
+agricultural machinery has been brought to greater perfection than in
+almost any other country, so in Australia the same conditions have
+developed a flourishing manufacture of special machinery used in
+mining--one of the staple industries of the country.  A demand for this
+improved machinery has recently sprung up in other countries, a
+considerable order having been received from India by an Australian firm
+while I was there.
+
+In Sydney--not in spite of, but because of, Free Trade--the largest
+manufacturing concern in the Australian Colonies has grown up.  The
+founders of this large business had the sagacity at the outset to
+recognise that there were certain articles which must of necessity be
+better and more cheaply made in the Colony than they could be imported.
+They put down steam saw-mills for supplying planking, which before had
+been imported; they next proceeded to make such articles as
+window-sashes, doors, frames, etc., for house-building, choosing such as
+could be manufactured almost entirely by machinery, which they obtained
+from England and America.  By such natural means, and altogether free
+from legislative interference, they have built up the enormous business
+known as Hudson Brothers, Limited, railway rolling-stock manufacturers.
+It is clear that with the most improved machinery, purchased in the
+cheapest markets and imported duty free, and having inexhaustible
+supplies of native timber, not only cheaper but much better adapted to
+the climate than that hitherto imported, the opening for a perfectly
+legitimate business presented itself; in fact, they created a genuine
+"native industry."  But Messrs. Hudson, recognising, as already pointed
+out, that other countries have also special advantages for the production
+of certain articles, wisely abstain from attempting a hopeless
+competition.  For this reason they import such portions of the
+rolling-stock as wheels, axles, springs, carriage-furniture, etc.
+
+The free importation of mining and agricultural machinery into New South
+Wales has given these industries such a stimulus that they have been more
+generally developed throughout that Colony than those of Victoria,
+causing a continuous and increasing demand for labour.  The immigration
+into New South Wales is greatly in excess of that into Victoria; and, in
+addition to this, large numbers of artisans and others are continually
+crossing the border from the latter into the former Colony.  In 1880,
+forty-five thousand persons arrived in New South Wales from other than
+Australian ports, and it is not too much to say that there is ample room
+for four times their number every year.
+
+Until a few years since the great shipping companies had their repairing
+yards and shops in Victoria, but the extremely high cost of everything
+required by them compelled them at last to remove their establishments to
+her Free Trade neighbour, thereby effecting a very considerable saving.
+The same causes have doubtless been influential in securing to New South
+Wales the remarkable development of its shipping interests during the
+last generation.
+
+So little is known in England of what our friends in the Colonies are
+doing, that probably many will be startled to learn that whereas in 1782
+the total imports and exports of Great Britain amounted in value to about
+23,850,000, in New South Wales, in 1881, the value was 27,650,000.
+
+During the last thirty years the shipping annually arriving in Sydney has
+increased from 90 vessels, with a tonnage of 48,776, to 1,389 vessels,
+with a tonnage of 973,425; and the clearances in the same period
+increased from 47 vessels, with a tonnage of 24,081, to 1,322 vessels,
+with a tonnage of 941,895.
+
+During the last ten years, too, the population of New South Wales has
+increased 53 per cent., while that of Victoria has only increased 18 per
+cent., and while the excess of immigration over emigration in the former
+Colony has quadrupled, it has been almost stationary in the latter.
+
+During the same period the Customs revenue in Victoria, notwithstanding
+the high tariff, has remained almost stationary; while in New South
+Wales, with a low tariff and smaller population, it has increased nearly
+one-half.  The imports, too, have increased 80 per cent., against 17 per
+cent. in Victoria, and the exports 94 per cent. against 28 per cent.
+
+These figures, taken from official papers in 1882, have never been dealt
+with by Victorian Protectionists, but are full of meaning to all those
+whom vested interests have not made blind.  While it is true that
+Australia presents, and will continue to present, a great field for the
+surplus population of older countries, it is, in my opinion, a mistake to
+suppose that the upper grades of English artisans improve their position
+much by going there.  Wages are higher it is true, and eight hours make
+up a day's work; animal food also is cheaper, but almost everything else
+is dearer than in England--house-rents, indeed, enormously so.  An
+artisan who in Birmingham would be well housed for 5s. to 6s. a week
+would have to pay 1 for much inferior accommodation; this remark applies
+generally in Australia, the principal cause being the great lack of
+artisans in the building trade.  Many too, may consider the higher wages
+and shorter hours of labour as not too great a compensation for the
+exhaustion induced by the heat and dust of the climate and the annoyance
+from insect life.  But for unskilled labour and for skilled agricultural
+labour there can be only one opinion,--viz., that the Colonies present a
+field where sobriety and industry are certain to bring a reward such as
+is altogether unattainable at home.
+
+The education of the people is admirably provided for by the Legislature,
+every district being well supplied with first-rate schools, while the
+means of intercommunication by rail, post, and telegraph are superior to
+those of any country in the world, when the smallness of the population
+and the immense distances to be covered are taken into consideration.
+
+In Australia, especially in the southern Colonies, there is happily no
+native question to absorb the attention of the people and to upset the
+calculations of financiers, consequently the colonists are able to devote
+all their energy to opening up the natural resources of the country.  At
+the present time many millions of money are set aside for the
+construction of new railways and for the supply and storage of water, and
+when these are completed vast areas of agricultural land will be opened
+sufficient to accommodate all the spare population of England for many
+years to come.
+
+If "Young Australia," like his cousin in America, has an unbounded
+confidence in the future of his country, he has even more in himself, as
+is well illustrated by the following story told me by an old resident.
+In one of the cities a number of young men had established a Debating
+Society, which met every Wednesday evening in a room in a narrow street.
+On the other side of the street was a church where service was held at
+the same time.  The weather being hot the windows of both buildings were
+usually open, and the important deliberations of the young men were much
+interrupted by the preaching and singing in the church.  With a
+delightful unconsciousness of what in slang phrase is called "cheek,"
+they instructed their secretary to write to the minister of the church,
+requesting him to hold his service upon some other evening of the week!
+
+The people of Australia are possessed of vast energy and great
+intelligence: and, having unlimited and well-grounded faith in their
+capacity to conquer the many difficulties which lie before them, they
+determined that their future career shall do no discredit to the great
+country from which they have sprung, and of whose history they are so
+proud.
+
+      [Picture: The Duck-Billed Platypus (Ornithorhyncus paradoxus)]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+We left Sydney in the first week in April, and although we had greatly
+enjoyed the beautiful scenery of its fine harbour and the neighbouring
+Blue Mountains, and had experienced the greatest kindness and hospitality
+on every side, we were not sorry to depart.
+
+In the first place, we were homeward-bound, and I had recovered the
+health, in search of which I had left home and friends, and the weather
+had been so oppressively hot and the dust so troublesome, that we were
+glad of the prospect of the abatement of the one and the total
+disappearance of the other.
+
+For ten months the Colony had had no rain, and in the neighbourhood of
+Sydney trees were dying by hundreds, and gardens which had been carefully
+tended for fifteen or twenty years were nearly spoiled.  The outlook for
+agriculturists was dark indeed, very indifferent hay was selling for 10 a
+ton, and the cattle were perishing for want of water.  I saw a statement
+in the paper that one farmer had already lost 45,000 sheep, and if the
+drought lasted a few weeks longer he would lose 50,000 more.  The most
+inveterate grumbler at the moisture of the English climate would, if here
+in Sydney, soon arrive at the conclusion that six months' rain is to be
+preferred to ten months' drought and dust under a scorching sun.
+
+Some friends accompanied us on board our steamer, and observing that the
+sky had become overcast with every prospect of a heavy downpour, I
+endeavoured to persuade them to return to shore, but they said the sky
+often looked overcast but soon became clear again, and that there would
+be no rain; still I was not comfortable, and presently induced them to
+go.  Half-an-hour afterwards our time was up, the ship's gun was fired,
+and down came the rain in such torrents as made me very apprehensive for
+the safety of my friends, lest their boat should be swamped.  On arriving
+at New York I found a letter from them informing me that the rain filled
+the boat so fast that it was with some difficulty they could keep it
+afloat.
+
+Our vessel was an exceedingly fine one, and was on her first voyage.  Her
+length was 400ft. and she was 40ft. wide across the saloon.  The
+appointments seemed to be all very good, although it soon appeared that
+she was insufficiently supplied with stewards, the consequence being that
+the meals were badly served.  Everything, however, was done according to
+rule, and it was curious to see the order in which the various dishes
+were brought in.  The chief steward rang a bell once, and the stewards
+marched into the saloon in single file, dishes in hand; two rings, right
+wheel; three times, place dishes on the table; and at the fourth ringing
+of the bell, remove covers and march out with them.  It looked like a
+pantomime, and caused us considerable merriment.  The head steward was a
+negro, and it was curious to note how he lorded it over the white
+stewards.
+
+A rough passage of four days brought us to the entrance of Auckland
+harbour.  The previous day it was very stormy, and an albatross which had
+been following us for some time, frequently flying across the ship
+between the masts, at length either flew, or was blown, against one of
+the masts, and fell dead upon the deck.
+
+In approaching the town of Auckland a number of islands of curious shape,
+surmounted with rocks bearing the appearance of castles are passed.
+Auckland looks well from the harbour, which is a very fine one; behind
+the town a mountain rises to a considerable altitude, greatly adding to
+the picturesqueness of the view.
+
+Our ship was the largest that had ever been in the harbour, and we
+expected soon to have a number of boats plying for hire, but none
+appeared until half our limited time had expired, and consequently very
+few passengers went ashore.  We took a quantity of coal on board, the
+quality of which was very bad, giving off volumes of the densest smoke.
+It is much inferior to the New South Wales coal, which in its turn is not
+equal to English.
+
+For the first ten days the Pacific greatly belied its name, being in a
+state of great commotion the whole time; indeed, most of the way to San
+Francisco the roll was very considerable.  As we neared Kandavu, in the
+Fiji Islands, the dreaded coral reefs began to come in sight.  Some of
+them stretch out for fifteen miles from the land, and are known to
+approaching vessels by the white crests of the long lines of breakers.
+Navigation is very dangerous, and the harbour of Kandavu is a very
+difficult one to make.  Just before entering we passed within fifty feet
+of the masts of a sunken ship; but, having brought a native pilot from
+Sydney, we got inside safely.  The harbour is exceedingly beautiful.  For
+some distance from the water on each side the ground is covered with
+cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, large ferns, and a great variety of
+bright green foliage, while beyond is a range of hills of beautiful
+shapes and well wooded.
+
+It being Sunday only two or three boats made their appearance, the
+missionaries not permitting the natives to come out to trade or to
+gratify their curiosity on that day.  Knowing this we were not a little
+amazed to receive a visit presently from the missionaries themselves, who
+were rowed by eight very intelligent natives, having no clothing worthy
+of mention.  Some of our party taxed the missionaries with their lack of
+consistency, and were answered that they came "by invitation."  The
+natives have fine open faces, with good foreheads, bright and restless
+eyes.  They are of a dark chocolate or liver colour.  Their hair is very
+abundant, but they spoil it by putting quicklime upon it, turning it to a
+dirty reddish brown.  Their vivacity is astonishing.  They laugh and
+chatter in a ceaseless chorus, but their language is not musical.  One
+old fellow was particularly voluble; he was in a boat, and was giving
+instructions to his crew in a fearfully loud voice, which sounded like
+the slipping of a ship's cable through the hawser-hole.
+
+                       [Picture: A Native of Fiji]
+
+It was great fun to watch the children diving for money.  If you threw a
+sixpence into the water they would go after it and catch it before it had
+gone down many feet, quickly reappearing to ask--like Oliver Twist--for
+more, and with a grin, disclosing teeth which made us envy them.
+
+Some of our fellow-passengers went ashore, and were much charmed with all
+they saw.  The little children very much delighted them by coming up and
+putting their hands into those of their visitors, leading them off to
+show them the bread-fruit and banana trees.
+
+Just as daylight was going our gun was fired, and with our pilot on board
+we steamed out of the harbour, having the pilot's boat in tow, manned
+with as merry a crew as ever rowed a boat.  The captain was very anxious
+to get clear of the reefs before dusk, and so went at a pretty good
+speed, and although the pilot-boat was half out of the water, and was
+constantly being swamped, the crew laughed and shrieked with delight,
+shouting and making curious noises like Christy Minstrels.
+
+Presently they commenced a song, one old fellow beating time with an
+oar--but we preferred the shrieking.  Soon the pilot clambered down the
+ship's side, and after giving him three cheers we set off at full speed.
+
+There are many sharks in these waters, but it is said they are not fond
+of the dark skins.  Whether that is so or not I do not know, but
+certainly both boys and men disregard the presence of these monsters in
+diving for money.
+
+The day after leaving Kandavu we passed through a beautiful group of
+islands surrounded with coral reefs.  We passed so close to two of these
+islands that we were able to see the cocoa-nut trees quite distinctly,
+the bright green vegetation rising just above the pure white surf, and
+the whole surrounded by the glorious purple and azure of the ocean.
+While passing one of the islands we saw a huge waterspout burst, and were
+glad our ship was well out of it.
+
+Soon after leaving the Fiji Islands the crew were put through
+fire-brigade practice.  The bell was rung continuously, the whistles
+blown, and the crew and stewards rushed to the fire-engines, and got out
+the buckets and hose, and soon began playing over the ship, while the
+first officer superintended the getting out and lowering of the boats.
+As very few persons were warned of what was going to be done, there was
+naturally great excitement amongst the passengers, one lady fainting in
+the saloon, thinking the ship was really on fire.  I was not impressed
+with the smartness or efficiency of either officers or crew, and was
+devoutly thankful that there was no need for their services; and yet I
+often wondered there were no fires, there being so many kerosene lamps
+all over the ship, to say nothing of the immense kitchen fires, where
+twice in one morning I saw a regular burst of flame through an unskilful
+cook overturning the fat in the absence of his chief.
+
+In going from England to Australia, and returning via the Pacific, and
+across America, one day is gained, and in order to keep our calendar
+right we had to "drop a day," or when we arrived at Liverpool we should
+be a day in advance of our home friends.  This is done by having two days
+of the same name and date in one week.  It appears rather curious but is
+plain enough, for our general course since leaving home was eastward, and
+continued so until we reached home.  Now, as in going east, four minutes
+to each degree are gained (the reverse in going west), it follows that in
+the 360 degrees into which the earth's circumference is divided, a total
+gain of 360 x 4 = 1,440 minutes, or 24 hours is made.
+
+Our doctor was somewhat of a curiosity.  One evening he told me that one
+of the passengers, who was suffering from an ailment of the eyes, had
+declined his further services, preferring to pay one of the passengers
+who was a medical man.  He assured me he had no feeling about it, he was
+quite above that sort of thing.  "Our profession," he said, "is one in
+which we should always practice the virtue of charity in accordance with
+the teaching of Christ, whose follower I trust I am."  But observing that
+during the conversation he frequently swore, I gave him a hint about it.
+"Ah," said he, "you remind me of my little wife at home; whenever I swear
+or consign any one to a warm place, she puts her finger up and says, 'Ah,
+don't do that, you know you don't mean it,' which of course is perfectly
+true, so there is no harm in it."  One of our doctors was re-named a
+"compound-conceited-cuss-of-a-colonial-cockatoo-quack-of-a-doctor."  He
+believed in the Australian "spread eagle"--in the cockatoo, that is--and
+had visions of a time when England would be a "foreign" country.  But he
+was labouring under the impression that there were eight millions of
+people in the Australian colonies, whereas there were not more than 2.5
+millions of white, black, yellow, and brown.
+
+Life on shipboard is not more free from little personal difficulties than
+on land: one of our colonial friends daily raised the susceptibilities of
+his neighbours at the dinner table by emptying a favourite dish of fruit
+into his pocket for home consumption; while just before reaching Honolulu
+it was rumoured there was to be a duel as soon as we arrived at the
+island.  One of the English travellers had an objectionable habit of
+turning the fruit over with his fingers at dessert, and picking out the
+best.  A colonial gentleman frequently rebuked him mildly for his breach
+of good manners, telling him he should "touch and take"; and so it
+resulted in a quarrel which it was said "blood alone can quell."  It is
+satisfactory, however, to know that the deadly encounter did not come
+off.
+
+Being told by the Captain that we might expect to land at Honolulu at 6
+p.m., the four o'clock dinner table was comparatively deserted, most of
+the passengers preferring to reserve themselves for what the Yankees call
+a "good square meal" on shore.  We arrived off the entrance to the
+harbour in good time, and made the usual signals for a pilot, but with no
+result.  After sunset, guns and rockets were fired, but no pilot
+appearing, the Captain decided to run in without one.  In consequence of
+the delay it was ten o'clock before we landed, when we found the
+islanders were _en fete_, and were informed that on such occasions the
+pilots decline to go out for vessels.  Just as we were about to land, one
+of our passengers, in the darkness, fell overboard, but being a good
+swimmer and a strong, fearless man, he managed to get aboard again, with
+no worse result than a wetting.  This gentleman had the reputation of
+being somewhat of a sceptic, and that afternoon I had been discussing
+with him the subject of a future state.  When he was safe on deck again I
+reminded him of our conversation, and asked what his thoughts were when
+under the water in such a perilous situation.  He replied, "I will tell
+you exactly what I did think.  When I fell overboard I had three
+shillings in my hand, and my first thought when under water was as to
+their safety; so, before doing anything else, I safely deposited them in
+my pocket, and then proceeded to 'go aloft.'"  On landing we found
+ourselves amongst a motley throng, whose faces, however, were too dark to
+be seen, the majority dressed in light coloured raiment, and all
+laughing, shouting, jabbering and shrieking in a ten times more lively
+manner than a mob of gay Neapolitans on the arrival of a train at Naples.
+We found the hotel about a mile from the landing place, and very much
+enjoyed the walk along the wide unpaved streets, lined with houses of
+various shapes and sizes, many with gardens around them.  Myriads of
+fire-flies lit up the darkness, and the air was laden with the perfume of
+tropical flowers.  On arriving at the hotel, we found it to be a
+spacious, well-lighted building, with lofty reception rooms, through
+which we wandered in quest of waiters to whom to give our orders for
+supper, but no servant could we find, neither could we get any response
+to the bells, which were vigorously rung by a hungry crowd.  We made our
+way to the office, and were there informed that we could get nothing to
+eat till next morning, as the servants had "gone home," and nothing was
+served after nine o'clock.  It was in vain we declared we were starving;
+the only reply was that we could get what we liked to _drink_ at the bar.
+A Yankee standing by, pitying our plight, said it was quite true we could
+get nothing that night, but told us how we could be the first to be
+served in the morning.  He recommended us to order our breakfast at the
+office before leaving, and to pay for it there and then, and to be at the
+hotel again before seven o'clock next morning.  This we did, and then
+returned to the vessel, where we also were too late to obtain anything to
+eat.  In the morning we were early at the hotel (buying some delicious
+strawberries on the way), and proceeding to the breakfast room, were
+informed we could not obtain admission until seven o'clock.  At the
+appointed hour the folding doors were opened by two natives of the
+"Flowery Land," and we were soon seated at the tables, which were crowded
+with a bountiful supply of most tempting viands, and quantities of
+luscious fruit.
+
+As soon as all the seats were occupied the Celestial waiter closed the
+door, and was most assiduous in seeing that his staff attended carefully
+to the wants of his guests.  Presently there were loud knockings at the
+door, to which no attention whatever was vouchsafed by the smiling
+Chinee; and when the knockings were varied by angry exclamations from our
+friends outside, his face became blander still.  It could not be said of
+this "Heathen Chinee" that his "tricks they were vain," for they were
+only too effectual in keeping the hungry crowd at bay.  When we had quite
+finished (and I fear we were in no haste to depart), the doors were
+opened to admit a further batch of impatient voyagers, and even then only
+one half of the expectant throng could be admitted, the remainder being
+advised to betake themselves to the restaurants in the town.  We shall
+not soon forget our experiences at the Honolulu Hotel, the landlord of
+which is no less a personage than His Most Gracious Majesty the King of
+the Hawaiian Islands.
+
+We occupied the remainder of the limited time at our disposal in walking
+and driving around the town and neighbourhood.
+
+The date and other palms, india-rubber and cocoanut trees, tree ferns,
+guavas, and other kinds of tropical vegetation flourish here in great
+abundance.  Flowers of the most brilliant colours grow everywhere, and
+the houses of the better classes seem perfect little paradises, with
+numerous jets of water flying.  The grass is delightfully green and
+beautiful, and great dragon-flies flit about in all directions.  Here and
+there we came across a group of little black-eyed, brown-faced, merry
+children, looking shyly at the white strangers, and rushing wildly along
+the streets.  We also met numbers of natives on horseback, dressed in
+splendid colours--red, blue, yellow, and green--all mixed, or in masses
+of one or more of these delicate hues.  "Will you ride," said one.  "Not
+to-day," I said, "perhaps to-morrow."  "That no good," replied he, "for
+steamer sails tomorrow!" and off he went at a gallop.  They are sharp,
+sprightly fellows, very handsome, wonderfully lithe and active, and have
+dark, flashing eyes.
+
+The women of the labouring class are very stately looking, and walk with
+a dignity and grace a duchess might envy.  Their clothing is not of a
+very extensive character, consisting apparently of one long loose robe,
+gathered neatly around the neck and wrists, with gay-coloured ribbons,
+and suggesting the idea that seven years would be an unnecessary time for
+a Honolulu girl to be bound to learn dressmaking.
+
+Meeting a number of little girls returning from school, I tried to get
+them to come and read to us out of their books.  They were very shy, and
+it was some time before they would venture near us.  At last one of them
+let me have her book, and I saw that her name was Emma--after the good
+queen of that name, who visited England a few years since--so I said,
+"Now, Emma, read us something, and I will give you this," holding a new
+threepenny piece before her.  At once she came and read a page in the
+true conventional schoolgirl monotone.  The book was printed in Honolulu,
+and was in the native language, which sounded sweet, and free from
+harshness.  She was a nice-looking little girl, quite a "brownie," and
+was much pleased with her threepenny-piece.  The children were delighted
+at seeing Queen Victoria's face on the coin, and frequently repeated her
+name.  The race is fast dying out, and in a few generations will become
+extinct.
+
+During the day we visited a school, and looked over the Parliament House,
+which is a handsome building.  The hall is very large and lofty, and so
+also are the rooms, the walls and ceilings being lined with a smooth
+white enamel.  In connection with the House of Parliament there is a
+tolerably good library, and the nucleus of a good museum, but the country
+is very poor; indeed I am told it is almost bankrupt.  On passing the
+post-office it occurred to us to ask if there were any letters for us,
+although we did not expect any, and putting our cards on the table we
+said we supposed there were no letters for us.  "Oh, but there are
+though," the clerk said, "and I am very glad to get rid of them,"
+whereupon, to our intense delight, he produced a huge packet of letters
+and papers.
+
+While driving into the country we passed many pretty villas, with gardens
+full of splendid shrubs and flowers, and on to a native village.  The
+houses are made chiefly of large rushes, which grow here in great
+
+              [Picture: Ruth, The King's Sister (Died 1883)]
+
+abundance.  There seem to be no chairs or seats in the houses, every one
+squatting on the ground.  We passed some native women carrying their
+babies, and I asked if they would sell me one.  "Yes, for a dollar," one
+replied; but when I said "Very well, then, bring it here," she altered
+her mind, which was a good thing for me, for I should not have known what
+to do with a black baby.
+
+The temperature of Honolulu ranges between 60 and 88, and the islands are
+always fanned by the N.E. trade winds, rendering them exceedingly
+healthy.
+
+Our visit conveyed the impression to our minds that it would be
+impossible to spend a month more delightfully than among the Hawaiian
+group, and we bade adieu to Honolulu with the greatest regret.
+
+It was a beautiful moonlight evening when we left Honolulu for San
+Francisco, and after many months' travelling by land and sea, we began to
+feel that we were at last really homeward bound, for would not our _next_
+voyage land us at Liverpool?  While at Honolulu we received a very
+considerable addition to our passenger list in the persons of a number of
+Americans, of both sexes, some of them being gentlefolks and some of them
+not.  We also took on board three thousand bundles of bananas, which were
+hung up in the netting all round the promenade deck.  This was a most
+unfair arrangement on the part of the captain, as not only were the seats
+on this deck rendered unavailable, and a large portion of the space
+occupied, but the ship became overrun with centipedes, some of them five
+inches long, making it like Egypt during one of the plagues, "for they
+were in all our quarters," in our beds and in our clothes.  Americans, as
+a rule, are not good sailors.  Hence it is that when commencing a voyage
+they take it for granted that they are going to be ill, and make their
+arrangements accordingly.  My companions had been flattering themselves
+that the spare berth in their cabin would remain empty to the end of the
+voyage, but they were doomed to disappointment, for it was their bad
+fortune to receive one of the most bilious-looking of the new arrivals.
+On entering the cabin the first observation the Yankee made was, "Where
+d'ye throw up?"  The answer to which was, "We don't 'throw up' at all.
+We _go_ up and lean over the lee side."  The event proved the Yankee's
+apprehensions to be well founded.  One party of Americans were returning
+from a prolonged residence on one of the islands of the Pacific, where
+they appeared to have acquired some of the native habits.  One day these
+people were taking their lunch on deck; it consisted of chicken and a
+native dish called "POI."  The latter was a substance like bill-stickers'
+paste, and was contained in a large bowl.  The company, which numbered
+some five or six persons, men and women, sat upon the deck around the
+bowl, and, having learned from their new acquaintances, the savages, to
+do without spoons and separate dishes, helped themselves to the delicious
+mixture by each dipping two fingers into the common bowl until it was
+empty.  They then attacked the chicken, and had evidently taken lessons
+in carving from the same authorities, for they adopted the primitive plan
+of pulling it to pieces.  Of course these proceedings excited
+considerable remark among the passengers, but the party seemed quite
+insensible to observation.
+
+Another of our passengers was an American, named Steinberg, who had a
+grievance against the British Government on account of an alleged outrage
+on the part of an English man-of-war's crew, in some dispute in the
+Samoan Islands.  He was nursing his wrath until he arrived at Washington,
+when he certainly thought England's fate would be settled, and that she
+would be "chawed up catawampously."  This man was accompanied by a Yankee
+journalist of a most anti-British type.  He was a sallow-faced man with a
+large square lower jaw, without any hair on his face, and with straight
+lanky locks, and, moreover, was something under five feet high.  He was
+so thorough-going in his hatred of everything British that when "God save
+the Queen" was sung at the close of a concert in the saloon, he got up
+with much fuss and stalked out, followed by some half-dozen of his
+countrymen.  We called the fiery editor "Jefferson Brick," after Martin
+Chuzzlewit's acquaintance.  On one occasion I heard a friend of this
+gentleman ask him if he had a chair on deck.  He said he had not, as the
+Britishers always brought a good supply.  I took the hint, and determined
+that, at any rate, he should not use mine.  Soon afterwards it happened
+that a sea, breaking over the deck, soaked the carpet seat of my chair,
+which obliged me to place it in a sunny position that it might dry.
+Presently I saw "Mr. Brick" deliberately fetch the chair, which was a
+very comfortable one, and, taking it into the shade, settle down on it.
+I went to him and remarked that the chair was quite wet.  "I guess it's
+dry now," said he, with the peculiar twang of a down-east Yankee.  Seeing
+that he failed to take the hint, I told him that the chair was mine and
+that I would thank him to give it up.  This he did, with a remark that he
+"did not see what people who were always walking about wanted with chairs
+at all."
+
+We were not altogether without curious examples of our own countrymen as
+fellow-passengers.  One in particular, an Irish tradesman, from one of
+the New Zealand ports, seemed determined to amuse and be amused.  We
+called our friend "Mister," because he addressed everybody by that name.
+It appears that "Mister" was too fond of liquor, and that he had to take
+an occasional holiday, in order to give his friends an opportunity of
+putting his affairs straight at home.  I was told that he had a
+flourishing business, which was managed by two able assistants, who
+insisted upon his leaving them for twelve months in the interest of the
+concern, under the penalty, if he returned, of their opening an
+opposition shop.  "Mister" told me he had been educated in four Colleges
+in Ireland, which, doubtless, accounted for the remarkable absence of
+knowledge he displayed.  He frequently alarmed us by the disappearance of
+the knife down his throat at the dinner table.  One evening he
+volunteered to read at one of the entertainments in the saloon, and
+caused great amusement by the richness of his humour and of his
+brogue--winding up his reading by the impromptu observation, "and shure
+it is oi that am moighty dray."  We shall hear of "Mister" again when we
+get to San Francisco.
+
+One of our passengers, who died during the voyage, had been suffering
+greatly from severe pains in the head.  He had been told by a lady that
+sometimes great relief was obtained in such cases by rubbing brandy upon
+the head.  Soon after giving this advice the lady was walking down the
+saloon where there were a number of passengers and stewards, when she was
+astonished by hearing the poor invalid calling after her in the most
+excited manner, and to the no small wonderment of the passengers, "Miss,
+Miss, did you say brandy or whiskey?"  On one occasion the doctor was
+examining this patient, when the poor fellow appealed to him to do what
+he could for him, saying, "Doctor, I should like to have one more chance,
+do you see, and if you can put this old crazy machine together again and
+make it run once more I shall take it--_as a personal favour_!"  Before
+he became dangerously ill the invalid was in the same cabin with one of
+my friends, who one night was considerably disturbed by his dreadful
+coughing, varied at intervals by strong language respecting the cough,
+which, he declared, did not belong to him.  "It's not mine, I never had a
+cough, it's my head that's wrong--this cough belongs to some other
+fellow; what's it bothering me for?" and when some ladies gently
+remonstrated with him he said, "Look here, now, I guess it's just as
+natural for me to swear as it is for you to pray!"  His end came suddenly
+at last, and in a few hours after, in the early morning, his remains were
+
+    "In the deep bosom of the ocean buried."
+
+We sighted the entrance to the magnificent harbour of San Francisco at
+daybreak on a beautiful morning at the end of April, and when we
+approached it the sun had just risen, bathing the whole scene in a flood
+of golden light, fully justifying its name, "The Golden Gate."  In a
+short time the city came in view, reminding me very forcibly of
+Sheffield, from the dense masses of smoke which hung over a large portion
+of it, for San Francisco is an important manufacturing place.  Soon we
+were boarded by a motley crew, composed of Custom House officers,
+hotel-touts, porters, agents for the railway, and a number of keen-eyed
+gentry, desirous of earning a cent anyway, honest or otherwise.  We had
+decided upon going to the famous Palace Hotel, and having found the
+agent, placed our luggage under his care, receiving checks for it, and,
+locking our cabin, proceeded on shore, where we found the most sumptuous
+omnibus we had ever seen waiting to convey passengers to the hotel.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+The Palace Hotel in San Francisco is quite a town in itself, containing
+as it does over a thousand rooms, and with rarely less than a thousand
+inhabitants, including servants, only a limited number of the latter,
+however, living in the house.  The establishment has its own gas-works,
+four artesian wells, affording an abundant supply of the purest water; it
+also possesses a thoroughly good fire-brigade, and an efficient system of
+police.  There are five hydraulic lifts for the conveyance of guests and
+luggage to each floor of the house.  The rooms on the ground floor are
+25ft. high, and of corresponding size, the breakfast room being 110ft. by
+53ft., the dining room 150ft. by 55ft., the walls being hung with
+excellent copies of the best works of the great masters.  The corridors
+are lined and paved with white marble, and the grand staircase is of the
+same material.
+
+The bedrooms are very large and airy, and they all have comfortable
+dressing-rooms attached, with hot and cold water supply, and with a dozen
+beautiful towels--a very refreshing sight to the voyager who has been
+cooped up for the previous month in the limited space allotted to
+passengers on an ocean steamer.  The bedrooms have baths adjoining them,
+each bath being arranged for two rooms; there is also a service-room on
+each landing, where a dusky negro is always in attendance.  Upon each
+landing there is a tube for the conveyance of letters for the post direct
+into the letter-box at the general office.  There is also a pneumatic
+despatch-tube for the conveyance of messages and parcels to and from any
+point on the different floors.  Upon the garden floor of the hotel there
+is an arcade promenade 12ft. wide, with entrances to all the shops under
+the hotel, upon the street level, each shop having a show window upon
+this promenade.  There are three inner courts, the centre one being
+140ft. by 84ft., covered with glass of the same height as the roof of the
+hotel.  It has a carriage and promenade entrance from the street of 44ft.
+in width, and a circular carriage way of 54ft. in diameter, which is
+surrounded by a marble-tiled promenade and a tropical garden.  The garden
+is well supplied with exotic plants, statuary, and fountains.  Around
+this centre court and upon every storey there is an open gallery from
+which all the bedrooms are entered, and from which they receive light and
+fresh air.  The dining rooms are fitted with a large number of small
+tables for parties of from four to eight persons, an arrangement very
+much superior to the long tables in most _salles a manger_.
+
+There are about four hundred waiters, one-fourth only being white men,
+the rest negroes.  The latter seem specially adapted for waiting, being
+active and nimble, and seeming to anticipate every wish.  They receive 1
+per week wages and their board, but lodge away from the house.  A fresh
+bill of fare is printed daily for each meal, and the variety of food is
+very great, there being a choice of about seventy dishes at dinner.  In
+the kitchen are twenty-seven French cooks, besides assistants--a
+sufficient guarantee for the excellent manner in which the food is
+prepared.
+
+There is a splendid laundry in the house, where the washing is done by
+fifty Chinese washer_men_, and certainly never was linen more exquisitely
+got up than here.  These Celestials are specially successful in all kinds
+of starching requiring a smooth polished surface, such as shirt fronts.
+The mode in which they apply the starch is quite novel, for having taken
+a mouthful they blow it out on to the article in a continuous fine spray,
+while their hands are occupied in ironing.
+
+The servants take their meals in _table d'hote_ fashion, being waited on
+by a batch of their fellow servants, and everything is conducted with the
+greatest possible regularity and order.  I was much pleased to find that
+all the gas and water fittings, also the hydraulic lifts and pumps, were
+supplied by English makers, and were such as to command the admiration of
+everybody.
+
+An American gentleman, hearing me speak of the hotel, asked me how I
+liked it?  I told him I was greatly delighted with it; that it was a
+palace, indeed, in all its arrangements, but that in one respect I had
+been not a little astonished at what I had seen there--the presence of
+the extreme of civilisation face to face with a very close approach to
+barbarism.  "How is that," said he.  "Why," I replied, "you are only
+supplied with one knife and fork at meals; each guest has to dip his
+fishy knife into the butter, and the same process has to be gone through
+in taking salt and mustard; and seeing it is the fashion amongst the
+American guests to put the knife into their mouths, the idea is not
+pleasant."
+
+I referred, too, to another peculiarity of the Americans arising, I
+believe, from their extensive use of the Virginian weed in chewing, and I
+said that the guests at the Palace Hotel, in passing through its marble
+halls, had not the same excuse for their conduct that the old Greek
+philosopher had when he was being shown over the palace by Croesus, and
+when he excused himself for an unparalleled act of rudeness by saying
+"that such was the magnificence on every hand that the face of the king
+was the meanest thing that presented itself," for the proprietor of the
+hotel had made the most ample provision for the national habit--a
+provision which was, however, very generally disregarded.
+
+The city of San Francisco is exceedingly well situated, and possesses
+many handsome streets, extensive hotels, and public buildings, but in
+none of these respects, save only in hotels, is it equal to Melbourne,
+though the evidences of great business activity and prosperity are much
+greater in the former city.
+
+The day after I arrived at the hotel I was surprised at receiving the
+following letter:--"Dear Tangye,--Should you wish to see me I am to be
+found at the above address, or a letter addressed to me, Box 339, Post
+Office, will reach me promptly.  My wife is dead.  A. J. C. Jarratt."
+The name was quite strange to me, so I decided _not_ to go, but to send a
+friend.  My friend found the address, which was a wretched room at the
+top of a lofty pile of buildings, and after a few minutes' conversation
+with the man he saw there, was very glad to get into the street again,
+not liking the aspect of things.  The following day, whilst seated at
+dinner with my friends, a waiter came to us and asked which was Dr. L--.
+On being told, he said a messenger from the chief of police was in
+waiting, wishing to see him.  I looked at the doctor and asked him what
+he had been doing.  Having finished our dinner we adjourned to the office
+and found the officer, who said his chief had received a telegram from a
+man in some town a hundred miles inland requesting him to send "his
+friend the Doctor" up to him as soon as possible.  Of course my friend,
+knowing nothing whatever of the man, declined to go up country.  I
+mentioned these polite attentions to a gentleman who was dining at the
+same table, and who I found was the leading lawyer in the city.  He told
+me it was a favourite dodge with the sharpers, and that they sometimes
+caught a "flat" in this way.  On the arrival of ocean steamers it is the
+custom to publish the names of the passengers in the evening papers,
+which accounts for the familiarity of these fellows with the names of
+strangers.  We had many amusing chats with this lawyer.  He remarked one
+day that I must have met with a deal of "character" in travelling.
+"Yes," I said, "I had, both good and bad."  "Wa-a-l, I guess its better
+to meet with a _bad_ character than none at all."  Speaking of the
+neighbouring State of Nevada, which was still in a very unsettled
+condition, he said a friend of his was Governor there, and that he "was
+6ft. 6in. in height, and had a number three head and a number fifteen
+foot, for," said he, "I guess weight of foot is more important there than
+weight of brain."
+
+There are sharp men of business in the city who do not require offices in
+which to carry on their business.  If you are walking in the streets with
+a friend, and, meeting someone else, stop for a chat, you will see a
+'cute-looking fellow stop, and though he appears to be intent on
+something on the opposite side of the street, you will note that he is
+leaning his ear towards you, doubtless with the laudable intention of
+gaining a little information.  On one occasion we met one of these
+individuals.  He kept his ear open, and then struck in with "I guess you
+are going through to England.  I can put you up to the best way of doing
+it and calculate I can save you from forty to fifty dollars on the job."
+We say we are much obliged, and will perhaps "call again."  Then as you
+proceed along the streets attenuated fellows, with scanty, pointed beards
+and Mother Shipton hats, accost you with "Going east, gentlemen?  Guess
+you'll want to change some money.  Come with me, gentlemen, and I'll take
+you to the right place."  "Thank you," we say, "not to-day."  "Wa-a-l,
+guess exchange will go against you to-morrow, gentlemen."  Observing on
+the door of a very handsome house a brass name-plate with the name "Mrs.
+Doctor Sanders," our guide informed us that there were many lady doctors
+in the city, and that they had very extensive practice.
+
+The Chinese are very numerous in San Francisco, there being more than
+40,000 of them there.  At the time of my visit, the feeling of the
+rowdies ran very high against the Celestials, and threats of wholesale
+massacre were freely used against them.  John Chinaman is a most
+industrious, frugal man, spending very little upon his living, and
+nothing upon his pleasures, always excepting his infatuation for opium.
+His needs being few, he can afford to work for very small pay, and thus
+comes into competition with the white workman.  This is the head and
+front of his offending, but it is aggravated by the fact of his being
+equally skilful as an artificer.  While the artisans have their special
+grievances about the Chinese, the wealthy classes have theirs also.  It
+is true "John" does his master's work well and cheaply, but, as I have
+said before, he is not a spending man; his sole object is to get what the
+Yankees call "his little pile" as quickly as possible, and then return to
+his native land.  Nor is this surprising when we consider that every
+Chinaman leaves his little "Min-ne" behind him when he quits the Flowery
+Land, it being a very rare thing for a woman to leave China.
+
+The Chinese quarter is full of interest; the people swarm like bees, and
+live in a frightfully overcrowded state.  The butchers' and barbers'
+shops are the most numerous and most interesting, the former being filled
+with a quantity of dreadful-looking little portions of meat, but it would
+puzzle the most learned to say from what animal they were cut.  The
+barbers' shops are situated in the basements of the houses, with an open
+front towards the street, and they are very numerous, for the Chinese are
+close shavers.  On looking down you may see a number of men seated in a
+variety of positions, each one smoking a pipe of opium, while the barber
+is occupied in shaving every portion of his head and face, excepting, of
+course, his beloved pig-tail.  The swell Chinee is very particular that
+every hair shall be removed, and so clever do the operators become that,
+by means of tiny razors, they can shave the inside of the nose.  Some of
+the pig-tails are of enormous length, and sometimes the white rowdies
+attack the Chinese and cut their pig-tails off.
+
+          [Picture: The Chinaman (from a sketch by the Author)]
+
+When a man has an especially fine one, he either rolls it up at the back
+of his head and fastens it with hairpins, or else tucks it inside his
+blouse.  I noticed one of the latter in particular, a glimpse of which
+would have delighted Darwin himself.  The owner had evidently let down
+his back hair before putting on his blouse, and consequently the
+pig-tail, which disappeared at the back of the neck, emerged from under
+the blouse and extended to his heels.
+
+Some of our party, wishing to explore the Chinese quarter by night,
+engaged a detective to accompany them, it being unsafe to go unless so
+escorted.  The guide first took them over a lodging house, in which some
+hundred Chinamen were stowed away, literally almost as thick as herrings
+in a barrel.  Not only was the floor thickly covered, but suspended above
+it was a layer in hammocks, some smoking opium and others sleeping, none,
+however, taking the slightest notice of the intruding party.
+
+                         [Picture: Little Min-ne]
+
+On visiting the Chinese theatre during the evening they found
+preparations being made to celebrate a Celestial wedding.  This decided
+them to stay and see the ceremony, which was attended by a vast number of
+Chinese, the theatre being crowded in every part.  After the ceremony
+most of the spectators formed in the procession, which escorted the happy
+pair to their home.  My friends also visited the Joss Houses and
+inspected the queer-looking gods contained in them.
+
+While making some purchases in a Chinese shop it was necessary to give my
+address.  I wrote it out on a card thus--TANG-YE, upon which the
+Celestial at once claimed me as a countryman of his.  I disabused his
+mind of that idea by putting my fingers to the outer corners of my eyes
+and pretending to extend them in an upward direction, the absence of
+which peculiarity showed conclusively that I was not of the true Mongol
+type.  Curiously, however, on afterwards consulting a gazetteer, I found
+that there is in China a city named TANG-Y, containing over 30,000
+inhabitants.
+
+The Chinese are accused of having brought with them a number of
+objectionable practices, but to anyone possessing a knowledge of the
+lower classes in American cities, it will not appear possible that the
+Chinese can be very much worse than they.
+
+Most of the traffic in San Francisco is carried on by the tramways, and
+it may not be out of place to put intending visitors on their guard with
+respect to a little peculiarity in their management.  It is advisable to
+tender the exact fare if possible, for if you give a larger sum the
+balance is returned to you, not in cash, but in tickets available for
+future rides, which you may have no opportunity of taking.  The hackney
+carriages are very fine, being almost equal to English private carriages.
+Most of those I saw were splendidly horsed with a pair of magnificent
+animals, generally black.  The lowest fare taken is ten shillings, but I
+am bound to say you can have full value for your money in the time and
+the accommodation given you.
+
+On Sunday morning the city presents a very lively aspect.  The
+fire-brigades and volunteers parade the streets, preceded by their bands,
+and thousands of people go by tramway and other vehicles to see the
+famous sea-lions at the entrance to the bay.  From the grounds in front
+of Cliff House they are seen on the rocks below in large numbers,
+tumbling about and making a noise like the barking of dogs, but so loud
+as to be heard from a distance of nearly a mile.
+
+The climate is a delightful one, the temperature being singularly
+equable, ranging, as it does, in summer from 60 to 70, and in winter from
+50 to 60 Fahr.  Indeed the weather is so beautiful that one cannot help
+referring to it frequently, but the invariable reply to any such
+observation is, "Well, I guess we shall have three months just the same
+right slick away."
+
+                   [Picture: Seal Rocks, San Francisco]
+
+After nearly a fortnight's stay at the Palace Hotel, enjoying its good
+fare, we began to think it time to move eastward, as we were getting too
+luxurious in our habits.  My friend the lawyer, however, remarked that we
+need have no fear on that account, as the fare on the Pacific Railway
+would cure the severest attack of gout.  Before leaving San Francisco we
+met our old friend "Mister" twice.  From a report in the newspapers we
+learnt that he had been brought before the magistrates and fined for
+carrying fire-arms in the streets.  "Mister" told us the police had taken
+all his money on the pretence of taking care of it for him.  When we last
+saw him he was leaning against a lamp-post, helplessly drunk.
+
+                     [Picture: The Last of "Mister"]
+
+The great excursion from San Francisco is of course to the Yosemite
+Valley, but we were compelled to forego the pleasure of making it on
+account of our visit being too early in the season.  Some of our
+fellow-voyagers from the Colonies ventured to go, but, unfortunately,
+they met with a serious carriage accident, owing to the roughness of the
+road, caused by the breaking up of the frost.
+
+In order to secure a good seat in the train going East, it is necessary
+to make arrangements a few days before starting.  Tickets can be obtained
+at a score of places in the city, and should be got as soon as possible;
+and in order to save all unnecessary trouble with the luggage during the
+journey, sufficient for use in travelling should be separately packed,
+and the remainder handed over to the Baggage Master, who has an office in
+the hotel, and who will give checks in exchange, and undertake to deliver
+it at any hotel or railway station in New York, or any other place in the
+States that may be named.  By attending to this overnight, immense
+trouble is saved, for, if left until the morning of departure, each
+traveller has to look after his own baggage amid a scene of the wildest
+confusion, and quite unprotected from the terrible heat and dust.  It was
+with a sense of great relief that we began to move out of the station,
+and to feel that at last we were fairly started on our ride across the
+Rocky Mountains.  The railway ride for the first two hundred and fifty
+miles is a splendid one, through the magnificent Sacramento Valley, which
+I should think is fifteen or twenty miles wide, and is most fertile.
+Here corn is grown year after year without any manuring being required.
+In many "cuttings" through which we passed the soil was twenty feet deep.
+We passed fields hundreds of acres in extent, with nice houses, orchards,
+and gardens, surrounded by fine oaks and elms, making the country look
+like a park for a hundred miles.  The corn, which in many places was over
+ten feet high, was fast ripening, and its glorious golden colour was
+often charmingly varied by immense patches of Marigold, Eschscholtzia,
+Lupins, and another beautiful flower which we did not recognise, all in
+full bloom.  We also saw our old Tasmanian friend the Eucalyptus
+(commonly called the Gum Tree), and many of the quaint Dore-like dead
+Blue Gums, looking white and ghostly.
+
+         [Picture: The Eucalyptus (from a sketch by the Author)]
+
+This is a magnificent State.  A gentleman remarked to me that when the
+richness of the soil is exhausted there remains untold mineral wealth
+below.  The people, too, are very energetic, and there is abundance of
+capital; so much so that a moneylender travelling in our carriage
+complained that it is difficult to get fifteen per cent. per annum now
+when some twelve years ago he could easily obtain five per cent. per
+month.
+
+Soon after leaving Sacramento the track ascends the mountains and passes
+through the old gold-diggings so much spoken of thirty years ago.  They
+are visible all around for miles, and some are still being worked.  All
+the abandoned ones have been re-worked by the Chinese, who have got a
+great deal out of them.  By and by we stopped at a station where there
+were several dreadful-looking Indians, some with their faces covered with
+red ochre and with feathers in their hair; others dressed in scarlet
+blankets, tall white hats, one-legged trousers and moccasins.  They all
+looked very grave and stolid.  I did my best to make one old fellow laugh
+as he stood on the platform with his arms folded, but his face was stony,
+and he remained steadfast and unmoveable.  Their hair is like whalebone,
+matted and shaggy; their noses and mouths are broad, and the women look
+uglier than the men.  Several of the women were carrying their _papooses_
+(babies) suspended over their shoulders, with the legs swathed like
+Neapolitan children.  The only occupation of these degraded creatures is
+begging and stealing.
+
+While we were passing through swampy tract the large bull-frogs were
+giving a croaking concert in full chorus, and a rare noise they made.
+
+Soon we began to sight the snow mountains, and by nine o'clock we were
+right amongst the pine forests and the snow, and very beautiful the scene
+looked with the moon shining on it all.
+
+Life on board a "Pullman" train is almost more peculiar than life on
+board ship.  My party were fortunate enough to secure a cabin partitioned
+off from the rest of the carriage; but the remainder of the sleeping
+berths have no partitions, being separated merely by curtains.
+Inexperienced travellers are apt to forget this, and sometimes cause much
+amusement in consequence.  One morning I heard a young lady complaining
+to her mamma that she could not find her stockings, a remark eliciting
+numerous offers of assistance from all parts of the carriage.  A
+neighbouring compartment was occupied by a lady and gentleman, the former
+of whom was deaf, and with the peculiarity often observable in deaf
+people, she imagined everyone else was deaf as well; the consequence
+being that there were no secrets in that cabin.  Every carriage has a
+negro attendant, whose duty it is to make the beds and attend to the
+lavatories, the ladies' and gentlemen's lavatories being at opposite ends
+of the carriage.  At half-past nine o'clock Sambo begins to prepare the
+beds, and soon after ten almost everyone has retired, and, as fortunately
+there are no decks to be paced, sleep soon comes to the weary.
+Arrangements are made for three meals a day, the train stopping at
+stations convenient for the purpose, and notice being given half-an-hour
+before.  Half-an-hour is allowed for each meal, the invariable charge
+being one dollar.  As the train stops a general stampede is made toward
+the dining-room, the position of which is unmistakable, for at the door
+stands a negro, with a face devoid of expression, vigorously sounding a
+gong.  As each person passes in he pays his dollar, and makes a rush to
+the end of the room, where the cook is usually stationed.  And now happy
+is he who possesses the Yankee's qualification for a good diner-out, for
+unless he has a long arm, a quick eye, and a silent tongue, he is likely
+to come off with much less than a dollar's worth.  The experienced
+traveller, before sitting down, gathers all the dishes before him, within
+arm's length, and then proceeds to attack them _seriatim_, or sometimes
+all at once.  Indeed, I think a man of naturally generous disposition,
+would be made utterly selfish by twelve months' travelling on American
+railroads.  As soon as the half-hour has gone, the guard calls out with a
+shrill, nasal, Yankee twang, "All aboard," and we once more continue our
+journey.
+
+Happening one day to say to a fellow-passenger that I was from
+Birmingham, an American gentleman hearing me came across the carriage,
+and, raising his hat, said: "I _must_ shake hands with a person coming
+from the city which returns John Bright to Parliament."
+
+The Pacific Railroad is a single track, and, although a wonderful
+engineering work, is not by any means a substantial or
+confidence-inspiring line, if judged by English standards.  The rails are
+old and worn, the bridges and viaducts very lightly constructed, and
+almost always of wood.  I observed in several cases that the carriages
+were actually wider than the viaducts, many of which are open between the
+rails.  It is hardly to be wondered at that awful accidents sometimes
+occur.  The train in which we were travelling narrowly escaped falling
+into a ravine 120 feet deep.  One dark night, after we had all retired to
+rest, we were awakened by continued whistling and ringing of bells.  It
+was in vain that we inquired of the guards and attendants as to what was
+going on, for they, like their brethren all the world over, would give no
+information.  One thing, however, they could not hide from us, for we
+found we were being taken across a viaduct one carriage at a time, and as
+we crossed we could see lights moving about at a great depth below.  On
+arriving at Omaha, two days later, we found a full report of the
+occurrence in the papers.  It appears that the viaduct had been
+discovered to be in an unsafe condition, some of its timbers having been
+partially burnt, and it was a matter of discussion whether we should be
+allowed to cross at all; it being ultimately determined, as I have said,
+to take one car over at a time.  Ours was the last train that went over,
+for before daylight the whole structure had fallen with a tremendous
+crash.  The Indians were on the war-path at the time, and it was supposed
+that the work of destruction was theirs.  The railway here runs through
+some of the most magnificent scenery in the world.  Sometimes its course
+lies through narrow valleys, or canons, where there is just room for the
+railway and the river, sometimes through immense pine forests, and then
+again on a mere shelf cut in the face of the granite mountain, until the
+point called "Cape Horn" is reached.  This is the turning-point between
+east and west, and soon afterwards the greatest elevation is attained,
+8,200 feet.  About sixty miles of the more exposed portion of the road is
+covered with sheds, to protect it from the snow.  This result, however,
+is not attained without considerable discomfort to the passengers, as the
+carriages become filled with smoke and dust while passing through.
+
+One of the passengers on our train was an old man who had not crossed the
+country since he went out to the far west some twenty-six years
+before--long before the railway had been thought of.  The party with
+which he then travelled was so large that it had to be split into
+detachments for the convenience of pasturage.  One night his section was
+attacked by Indians, who killed several of the party and drove off most
+of the horses and cattle.  The old man had for many years been a trapper
+in the Indian country and had invested his hard-won earnings in horses
+which he was taking out west for the purpose of trade, and he was not
+disposed to lose them all at one fell swoop without making a bold dash
+for their recovery.  His plan of operations was soon settled, and in the
+evening he set off in pursuit with half-a-dozen picked men, each with his
+rifle and a good store of ammunition.  After some hours they came upon
+the scent of the Indians, and moving cautiously forward amongst the
+scrub, presently saw them around their fires busily engaged in dividing
+the spoils of the morning.  The trapper being a first-rate marksman, it
+was agreed he should do all the firing, while the others loaded and
+handed up the rifles as fast as required.  Every shot told, and the
+redskins, judging from the rapid firing that the whole party of white men
+were upon them, made a regular stampede, leaving horses, and cattle, and
+other spoil behind them.  So, painfully marching on, they came at last to
+the Mormon settlement and on to the Salt Lake City, where they were
+subjected to the most cruel treatment at the hands of the "Saints."
+These people told the travellers it was impossible to get to California
+by the route they were taking, as the country was swarming with hostile
+Indians, and they undertook to show them a better way by which they would
+get there in fifteen days.  Many suspected treachery, and a consultation
+was held, which came to no definite conclusion, except in the case of one
+man, who, in the heat of debate, was shot dead.  It was ultimately
+decided to adopt the Mormon advice, and as the route did not admit of
+wagons, they tried to sell them to the "Saints," who, of course, would
+not buy, knowing they would have them for nothing before long.  Many of
+the travellers burnt their wagons and harness rather than that the
+Mormons should have them, but the majority abandoned theirs, and set out
+without them.  Instead of fifteen days the journey took thirty-nine, and
+only a few survived it, most of the party dying by the way, either by the
+hand of the Indians or from fatigue.
+
+For about a thousand miles the railway is open to the prairie, the
+consequence being that frequent accidents occur through cattle straying
+upon the track.  I counted more than twenty carcases of these
+unfortunates in one day, and on one occasion, while sitting on the steps
+of the Pullman car, I felt a sudden check, and immediately after the body
+of a cow flew past.  The herds are looked after by men with lassoes,
+riding very fleet horses.  American railroads being much less protected
+from stray animals than those in England, the locomotives are provided
+with an apparatus called a "cow-catcher," which consists of an iron
+framework projecting in front and inclined downwards as near to the rails
+as possible.  The contrivance is successful in moving most living
+obstacles from the track.  For instance, when a cow gets between the
+rails and sees the train approaching, it becomes dazed, and the iron
+frame striking the lower portion of the legs takes it up readily.  But
+with a bull it is quite different: when his lordship sees his enemy
+approaching he puts his chin down upon his fore-feet and waits the onset
+with a confidence not by any means always misplaced, for in this position
+his head and feet form a wedge which, becoming inserted beneath the iron
+frame, frequently throws the engine back upon the train, causing serious
+accidents.  When at Ogden I saw the remains of a goods train which had
+been wrecked in this way a week before, the engine drivers being killed,
+also two stow-aways, or "dead-heads," as the Yankees call them, who had
+secreted themselves under one of the carriages.
+
+                           [Picture: Salt Lake]
+
+Waking one morning we found ourselves in a most awfully desolate country,
+with scarcely a sign of vegetation--a veritable dry and thirsty land,
+through which we travelled all day.  Towards evening we came to the
+alkali country, and the plains looked as though they were covered with
+snow.  This is a fearful place, where, before the construction of the
+railway, many poor emigrants have lain down to die.  Soon after, we
+skirted the margin of the Great Salt Lake and entered Brigham Young's
+dominions, passing his first town, "Corinne."  This town was founded by
+the Gentiles after Brigham turned them out of the Salt Lake City, but he
+soon drove them farther off.
+
+We left the train at Odgen in order to pay a short visit to the Salt Lake
+City, which is situated thirty-six miles off, and is approached by a
+railway belonging to the Saints.  For beauty of situation Salt Lake City
+is almost unrivalled.  It lies in a basin more than twenty miles in
+diameter, and is surrounded by mountains, some of which are 12,000 feet
+high, and most of them covered with perpetual snow.  At the time of our
+visit the fruit-trees were in full bloom, and, as each house is
+surrounded by its garden, the city occupies a large extent of ground,
+presenting a beautiful appearance from the United States camp, which
+stands on an elevation commanding the whole city, about two miles off.  A
+portion of the old mud wall, about ten feet high, built by the Mormons to
+resist the attack of the Indians, still remains standing.  Several of the
+houses are exceedingly well built, and the gardens kept in excellent
+order; one in particular I was much struck with, and remarked to our
+guide that it was the brightest and best kept place I had seen since
+leaving England.  He told me it belonged to an Englishman who had left
+for his native country on the previous day.  Curiously enough, when I
+returned home, I found this man was a brother of my butcher, and was then
+on a visit home.  We observed two ladies sitting in the front of the
+house engaged in needlework, and were told that they were the two wives
+of the English Mormon.  It was very noticeable that these ladies sat at a
+considerable distance apart, cordiality (unless it be of hatred) not
+being a characteristic of these Mormon wives in their relations with each
+other.  At the time of our visit the "Prophet" was down south, looking
+out for a new location for the Saints, in view of the threatened
+difficulties with the Central Government.  We visited the Tabernacle, and
+saw the preparations for the new temple, to which the deluded of all
+nations continue to contribute, although it is exceedingly doubtful that
+the building will be carried to completion.  The man who showed us over
+the Tabernacle used to work in a London factory; but he told us with a
+curious twinkle in his eye that the "new job" paid him much the best.  At
+a short distance from the city there is a sulphur spring, of considerable
+volume, proceeding from the side of the mountains; the temperature of the
+water is such that eggs can be boiled in it.  We slept at Ogden that
+night in order to be in good time for securing places in the train going
+east in the morning.  When the hotel bill was presented I tendered
+English gold in payment, having disposed of my U.S. currency.  The
+landlord refused to take it, saying, "He would not have the -- British
+gold."  I explained to him that I had no other money, but to no purpose,
+so, as the train was almost due, I told him I would pay him when I came
+that way again, but was not sure when that would be.  He quietly said, "I
+guess I'll take your gold," much to the amusement of the bystanders.  At
+the station here is a printed notice cautioning travellers to "BEWARE OF
+BOGUS TICKET SELLERS."
+
+For three days after leaving Ogden we travelled through the snow, passing
+through a series of canons or gorges, which narrow at the base until
+there is just room for the brawling stream which runs along the bottom.
+The railway in such cases is either excavated on one side of the gorge or
+carried on trestles over the stream.  The rocks on the mountain sides,
+mostly of red sandstone, are very bold and of strange shapes.  Amongst
+them is a very weird-looking group called "The Witches."  Another group,
+known as "The Buttes," bears a most striking resemblance to a line of
+strong fortifications commanding the valley.
+
+                         [Picture: Monument Rock]
+
+We saw these at sunset, and the effect of the evening light upon the red
+sandstone was very fine.  In the same neighbourhood is the celebrated
+Devil's Slide; it is formed by the earth being gradually washed away from
+between two lines of vertical strata about 20ft. apart.  It is some
+hundreds of feet in length, and descends into the river.  This valley was
+the route taken by the Western Pioneers, and is marked here and there by
+solitary graves with crosses at their heads.
+
+                       [Picture: The Devil's Slide]
+
+The whole 8,000 feet descent from the summit to the eastern plains is
+made in about four hours.  The steam is turned off, the brakes turned on,
+and down we go.  As we were preparing to descend I remarked to the negro
+attendant that I supposed we must trust the engineer now?  "No, sah,"
+said Sambo, "I guess we must trust de ole man up above," pointing to the
+skies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+On reaching Chicago we left "the overland train," with the object of
+paying a short visit to Niagara.  The last stage of our long ride was
+from Omaha, during which we crossed the Missouri and Mississippi.  There
+being three competing lines to Chicago the pace became greatly
+accelerated, so much so that during a considerable portion of the long
+ride it was almost impossible to stand on one's feet, and the country
+being very dry, the train was enveloped in a cloud of dust almost the
+whole of the way.  We had, however, one compensation, for attached to the
+train was a well-appointed dining-car, with first-rate cuisine.  The
+viands were of the choicest quality, and in great variety.  Moreover, the
+speed of the train was slackened during meals, an arrangement affording a
+degree of comfort unknown on the Pacific Line.  The bill of fare is a
+curiosity in its way, being garnished with appetising mottoes and
+sentiments, such as, "As you journey through life live by the way," "Eat
+and be satisfied," and concluding with an expression of belief that
+passengers would appreciate this new feature of "Life on the Road."
+
+In going through Chicago we were much surprised by the fine and
+substantial-looking buildings in every part of the city.  There are fifty
+to one hundred streets, any one of which is equal to the best in London;
+indeed, it struck me as being more of a city than any place I had ever
+been in.  We observed a whole block of buildings, including a bank on the
+ground floor, and offices above, being removed bodily without any
+disturbance of the business operations going on in it.  The water for the
+city supply is taken from Lake Michigan through a pipe which extends two
+miles into the lake.  The capacity of the pumping engines is seventy-five
+millions of gallons per day, the greatest demand being forty-five
+millions.  During the last few years there have been many disastrous
+fires in Chicago, directly traceable to the general employment of timber
+not only in buildings, but for the side walks and roadways.  The broad
+streets referred to above are, however, constructed of a fine
+warm-coloured sandstone, and all the new streets are being made of the
+same material.  Nevertheless, a considerable number of timber houses
+remain, constituting a standing danger to the city.  While in Chicago I
+found my passport useful.  On going to the bank to get some money on my
+Letter of Credit the manager told me they had not received a copy of my
+signature from the bank in England, and that in its absence they could
+not honour my draft.  It was in vain that I showed him my watch and other
+articles having my name engraved upon them.  He looked at them as though
+he thought there were various ways of getting possession of such
+articles.  I told him I regretted I had not been born with my name on my
+person, but I was not accountable for the omission.  I then thought of my
+passport, and although he appeared to think that it was possible to
+obtain possession of that improperly, he accepted it with the remark that
+"even that is not conclusive," for it should have had a description of my
+person.  We stayed at the Grand Pacific Hotel, which formed a great
+contrast to the Palace Hotel at San Francisco, being uncomfortable and
+badly administered.
+
+At Detroit we cross the frontier into Canada, travelling over the Great
+Western Railway to Niagara.  This line was constructed by English
+contractors, and the superiority of the work is manifested in the smooth,
+steady motion of the carriages.  Compared with the lines we had
+previously traversed this was most comfortable.  We pass through London,
+Paris, and other places with equally celebrated names, greatly enjoying
+the forest scenery, numerous clearings and bright little homesteads
+dotted over the country; and for the first time since leaving England
+seeing lovely green fields such as we have at home.  At Niagara we
+stopped at the famous Clifton House, where we were joined by friends from
+England.
+
+Our impressions of Niagara were those common to most visitors--first, a
+feeling of disappointment, soon succeeded, however, by an ever-increasing
+sense of the immensity and magnificence of the Falls, which grows upon
+one the more one sees them.
+
+A sentiment of disgust, however, is inspired by the ruthless desecration
+of the most beautiful spots by Yankee manufacturers, who have chosen such
+picturesque positions for their smoky factories.
+
+                   [Picture: Under the Falls, Niagara]
+
+Another annoyance constantly experienced is from the peripatetic
+photographer, who endeavours to persuade you that you are greater than
+the "Falls."  The Falls, indeed, are made to seem a mere background to
+your photograph, in which he is careful to show you nearest the camera,
+and hence proportionately by far the most imposing object.
+
+To get into Canada we have to cross the suspension bridge.  Going over
+one day we purchased about 1 worth of photographs of Canadian scenery.
+On returning with them we were accosted by the American customs officer,
+who mulcted us in nearly twenty shillings duty.  On entering his office
+to obtain a receipt we observed a "six-shooter" at his right hand,
+presumably for the purpose of persuasion.  On leaving the place I met an
+American policeman and told him what a shabby transaction it was for the
+representatives of so great a country.  He replied that he guessed the
+officer must raise his salary.  I refrain from any attempt to describe
+the mighty Falls of Niagara.
+
+On our way to New York we travelled by railway to Albany, the capital of
+the State of New York, passing through Syracuse, Rome, and Utica, along
+the shores of Lake Ontario, although from the lowering of the ground and
+the abundance of trees we were unable to see the lake; thence alongside
+the Falls River, through very charmingly diversified country with
+numerous valleys going up from the waterside, well-timbered, and here and
+there a clearing with open green fields.  The houses are in most cases
+mean-looking plank erections, presenting a very weather-beaten
+appearance, some painted a very dark red colour.  In the evening we
+reached Albany, an old Dutch town of over two hundred years, and very
+Dutch-looking it is with its queer red-brick houses, wooden pavements,
+and trees along the streets, and frequent peeps of the river here and
+there.  Amongst the finest public buildings are those devoted to the
+national schools, a true gauge of the importance the citizens attach to
+the education of the people.  On our way to New York we had an
+opportunity of taking a day's sail on the River Hudson in one of the
+celebrated American river-boats.  Going on board we found ourselves on a
+veritable floating palace.  The steamer was a three-decker, two of the
+decks being covered with splendid carpets, and fitted with arm-chairs of
+a most comfortable pattern, and with velvet-covered ottomans and couches
+in all directions.  Taking up one of the books from the well-stocked
+bookstall I saw it purported to be one of a series of standard works by
+American authors, and on looking down the list I observed the names of
+Tennyson, Barry Cornwall, and others.  Our American cousins were always
+great at annexation, and the only wonder is they do not call their mother
+tongue the "American language."
+
+The Americans seem anxious that everyone shall admit that the Hudson is
+finer than any other river in the world.  I have been down the Elbe,
+through the Saxon Switzerland, also down the Danube and the Rhine.  The
+Hudson is far more beautiful than the Rhine.  The banks are thickly
+wooded, and the villages and country houses prettily situated.  It is
+true that the Hudson lacks the romantic associations of the Rhine, but
+even in this respect it is not altogether wanting, for does it not
+possess the Catskill Mountains, with their legend of Rip Van Winkle?  But
+I like the Danube best; its banks are loftier and more rugged, and are
+covered with pines, and from its comparative narrowness one can see both
+sides at once.  Then again, the ancient towns and monasteries jutting out
+on the spits of land are infinitely more interesting than the wooden
+houses along the Hudson.  Again, the Elbe, especially in the Saxon
+Switzerland, is decidedly more beautiful than the Hudson; but for all
+this the latter is a river of which a nation may well be proud, and we
+greatly enjoyed our sail upon it.
+
+                 [Picture: The Pallisades, Hudson River]
+
+On a subsequent visit to the Hudson we landed at West Point, the seat of
+the celebrated military academy founded by Washington, where there are
+some hundreds of students.  Our hotel was situated about two miles from
+the academy, and overlooked the river from an eminence of about two
+hundred feet.  The river can be seen for some miles winding between steep
+banks on both sides.  The morning after our arrival was a Sunday, and the
+church bells were ringing for service.  There are two opposition churches
+here, but I have reason to believe they are very charitable to one
+another; at all events their respective bell-ringers do not believe in
+the jarring of the sects, for I notice that first one rings out
+one--two--three--four; then a decent pause, and his neighbour likewise
+rings out one--two--three--four, and so the celestial harmonies are not
+disturbed.
+
+On the opposite bank of the river is a place historic in the annals of
+the Revolution, for here it was that the American General Arnold was
+stationed while he was carrying on his treasonable correspondence with
+the ill-fated Major Andre.  Arnold was sitting at breakfast with his
+officers and some guests when word was brought him that Andre was
+captured as a spy by the Americans.  Knowing he would surely be
+incriminated, Arnold pretended he was wanted below on urgent business,
+and, going down to Beverley landing, he ordered his men to row him to the
+British man-of-war lying in the river.  Poor Andre, it will be
+remembered, was hanged by order of Washington.  His bust was placed in
+Westminster Abbey; three times since then has it been mutilated by
+miscreants.  Walking through the village we observed a mean-looking
+tumble-down tenement, with an equally mean-looking signboard stuck upon
+it, bearing this inscription:--"John Scales, Justice of the Peace, Notary
+Public."  His "Honour" was sitting inside, in his shirt-sleeves, with a
+white apron on, while behind him on a shelf were a few old dry-as-dust
+books, of the law I suppose.  The whole place looked totally at variance
+with our ideas of the majesty of the law; indeed it suggested that
+"justice" could be had for the buying, and that no one was expected to
+pay much regard to the decision of such a court.  On returning to the
+hotel I spoke of this functionary to the negro waiter, suggesting that he
+_dealt_ in justice, "Yes, sah; I guess a dollar will go a long way with
+him," replied he.
+
+               [Picture: John Scales, Justice of the Peace]
+
+Ascending the mountain we came across an old man at work on the roads.
+He was a German, having come to America in 1841.  He served in the
+Mexican war, and one of his sons was killed in the war against the
+Southern rebels.  The old man said it was hard work mending roads, and
+that the winters were very severe, "but," said he, "it is a free country,
+and that makes up for all.  In Germany a man dares not open his mouth,
+but here one can say what one likes."
+
+Passing by a farmyard our curiosity was aroused by seeing the stock of
+poultry secured by the leg to the fence.  As we had often heard in our
+travels in the States that this was "a great country," we presume this
+was an expedient adopted to prevent the fowls straying and being lost.
+Of course, England being so small, such precautions are not necessary.
+
+We returned to New York in another of the celebrated river-boats.
+
+During my stay in the States there were two great subjects which
+monopolised public attention.  These were the Centennial Exhibition which
+had just been opened: and the wave of corruption among officials and
+others which was sweeping over the land.  More space was occupied in the
+Press by charges of malversation and fraud on the part of the officials,
+from the President down to the lowest civil service clerks, and from them
+through all grades of society, than with the Exhibition itself or with
+any other subject, while the talk in the streets seemed to be about
+nothing else.  In alluding to the unlawful gains made in this way by many
+prominent citizens, a New York paper made use of a sentiment of Mark
+Twain to the effect that whereas in times past folks used to say "poor
+but honest," now-a-days when you see a rich man who has accumulated money
+in a proper way it is said that he is "rich but honest."
+
+I have travelled in many countries, but in almost everything have found
+America twice as dear as any other country.  The charges are simply
+monstrous.  Having to go from an hotel to the steam wharf, we were not
+permitted to take our very modest amount of luggage in the omnibus with
+us, although we had the vehicle all to ourselves; but the hotel people
+insisted upon sending it in a special wagon, charging two dollars for
+what a cabman in Birmingham would willingly have done for a shilling.  On
+board the steamer we were charged six shillings each for a plain dinner,
+without wine, which in England would not have cost more than 1s. 6d.
+Bound books are equally dear.  Pocket volumes, containing not more than
+one-sixth of the matter in a shilling volume of Chambers' "Miscellany of
+Entertaining Tracts," were charged two shillings each.  Most of the
+newspapers, also, are very inferior to, yet much dearer than, the English
+papers.  Another form of extortion is to be found in the impossibility,
+in many hotels, of obtaining information as to the sailing of
+river-boats, departure of trains, etc., the only apparent explanation
+being a desire to give "touts" and "loungers," of whom there are many,
+opportunities of extorting money.  These fellows seem to know nothing
+unless they can hear the dollars chink, or see the dirty greenbacks (and
+some of them are very dirty).  A fellow once gave me in change a dollar
+note which was so filthy that scarcely a word was legible upon it.  It
+looked as though it might contain smallpox or typhoid, so I asked him to
+wash it.  He said he guessed he would--_for a dollar_.
+
+Against all this, I am bound to say that the charges made by the
+steamboat companies and most of the railways are exceedingly moderate,
+and their arrangements in connection with baggage most convenient.  On
+arriving at any of the large cities by river-boat, the agent of the
+Luggage Express Company comes on board and takes possession of your
+baggage, giving vouchers for it.  He also undertakes to collect any
+baggage you may have sent to the City Railway Station from distant parts
+of the country, and very soon after you arrive at your hotel it is
+brought to you.  At the landing stages in such cities as New York there
+are numbers of cabs, mostly driven by Irishmen, and when they find you
+have disposed of your luggage and do not require their services, they
+give vent to their disgust in no measured terms, and if the traveller is
+a Britisher, he is soon reminded of the fact.
+
+The mode of dealing with baggage on the railway is almost equally
+convenient.  The following will give some idea of it.  You are
+travelling, say, from Aberdeen to Penzance, intending ultimately to
+proceed by way of London to Dover, and do not require the bulk of your
+luggage till you arrive at the latter place.  On leaving Aberdeen, the
+Baggage Master takes your superfluous luggage, putting brass labels upon
+it, thus--
+
+                               ABERDEEN--DOVER.
+                                     846.
+
+giving you corresponding labels, after which you have no further occasion
+to trouble yourself in the matter until you get to Dover.
+
+We visited the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia for the purpose of
+inspecting the various productions corresponding to our own, hoping,
+indeed expecting, to find something which would repay us for coming.  We
+were, indeed, repaid, but in a sense totally opposed to what we expected,
+for we found that so far from Americans being in advance of the English,
+they were, in many cases, taking credit for so-called "improvements"
+(claiming them as novelties), which we had been familiar with, and had
+used in our own works many years before.  They appear to be strangely
+unaware of what has been done in European countries, and a single
+instance will illustrate this.  The machinery in the Exhibition was
+driven by a single large steam-engine.  The newspapers made a great deal
+of this engine, declaring that it was the largest in the world, and that
+it had been made in the smallest State--Rhode Island.  An American
+engineer with evident pride took us to see the big engine, which, after
+all, had a cylinder of only 70in. diameter.  We told him that
+five-and-twenty years before a small engineering firm in Cornwall,
+England, had made several engines with cylinders 144in. in diameter, and
+which are yet at work.
+
+We were permitted to inspect some of the most important engineering
+establishments, and found the tools of such an inferior character that
+our only wonder was that they could produce either good or cheap work.
+In most cases the floors of the workshops were inches deep in ferruginous
+dust.  Under such conditions every time a heavy casting is dropped on the
+floor a cloud of dust must rise, and entering the bearings of the tools,
+cut them up badly.  We found many of the tools actually wedged up because
+of this.
+
+An American manufacturer speaking to me of a visit he had paid to the
+Exhibition in company with his foreman, told me how astonished the latter
+was at the excellence of the European exhibits.  He said he had no idea
+they could make the things half so well, "for," he said, "they are almost
+as good as ours," and, I added, "only one half the cost."
+
+The agricultural machinery was exhibited in a separate building erected
+specially for its reception, and here the Americans were unmistakably far
+ahead of all competitors.
+
+At the time of our visit several consignments of calicoes had been made
+to England and to various British markets, and sold at prices
+considerably below what they could be produced at by English
+manufacturers.  This incursion occasioned great disquietude in England
+until the cause was manifested--viz., overproduction.  On this point I
+read an article in a New York Protectionist paper intended as an answer
+to the Free Trade argument, that Protection increased the price of goods.
+The article stated that this was not so: and to prove its position said
+that the tendency of Protection was to induce people to go into
+manufacturing who know little or nothing of the processes they were
+undertaking, but who fancy that with the tariff of from 40 per cent. to
+80 per cent. upon foreign goods, there must necessarily be a sufficient
+margin to compensate for mistakes caused by their inexperience.  "And so
+it happens," continues the writer, "that there is great over-production,
+ruinous competition among American manufacturers, frequent failures, and
+consequently large stocks of goods are forced on the markets at a great
+loss, the public getting cheap supplies in consequence."  Adam Smith
+would scarcely have quoted this as one of the methods of adding to the
+wealth of nations.  But if the people at large obtain their cotton goods
+cheaper through this system of over-production, it is clear that the
+millowners are not the only sufferers, for it appears from a speech
+delivered by Mr. Shearman of New York, at the Cobden Club dinner in the
+present year (1883), that the wages of the factory operatives are twenty
+per cent. less than in Lancashire, while their hours of labour are from
+eighteen to twenty per cent. longer.
+
+During the late Fair Trade agitation its advocates were never tired of
+telling the English working-classes that under Protection their brethren
+in America were prospering in a remarkable degree, but in the speech to
+which I have referred Mr. Shearman shows that the average wages in
+protected trades are actually less than in 1860, the last year of
+comparative Free Trade, and that while in the ten years previous, wages
+were constantly increasing, during the succeeding twenty years
+(1860-1880) there was no appreciable advance, while during the past three
+years they have been steadily declining; so that here we have one of the
+staple trades of the country requiring longer hours of labour from the
+operatives, at considerably lower wages than for the same class in
+England, while the cost of living is much higher than in this country,
+and the climate much more trying from the extremes of heat and cold.
+
+Nor is this all, for the American operatives have very much less
+relaxation than the same class in England, their holidays being very much
+fewer.  Last year my workpeople, in addition to fifty-two Saturday
+afternoons, had nineteen whole days, although there was abundance of work
+for them, and the necessities of the business only required six days
+closing of the works.  The English artisan loves to have a deal of
+liberty, and his earnings enable him to indulge his desire in that
+respect.
+
+As may be supposed, the ranks of the operatives in the cotton mills of
+America receive no accession from England, but only from Germany and
+Scandinavia, where wages are low, and the oppressive military systems
+drive people from their native countries.
+
+During the last seven years of depression in trade in England it is well
+known that, taken as a whole, the working classes have suffered
+comparatively little, the loss falling mainly upon manufacturers, whose
+profits have been greatly lessened.  But how would the working-classes
+have fared if, in addition to the loss of home trade involved in the
+failure of the crops for so many years, the same causes were in operation
+which make it impossible for America to have a great foreign trade?
+
+It is manifest that so long as Protection exists in the United States
+exports must necessarily be confined almost entirely to such commodities
+as other countries cannot produce.  Until recently the home demand has
+kept the manufacturers in the States well employed; but competition has
+now become exceedingly fierce, and they are beginning to tread upon each
+other's heels.  It is this state of things which is destined to exert the
+most potent influence upon the fate of Protection.  The very class which
+has hitherto been loudest in demanding prohibitory duties upon imports,
+will soon, from sheer necessity, be found demanding their removal.
+
+It is worthy of note, too, that while under Protection the earnings of
+the producing class have been steadily declining, colossal fortunes,
+amounting in one case to twenty or thirty millions sterling, have been
+built up by individual monopolists.  On the other hand, during the same
+period and under Free Trade, there has been a wider distribution of
+material comfort in England, and, as shown by the official returns, a
+decided decrease in the number of millionaires.
+
+In passing through America on my return from Australia in 1876, I
+expressed the opinion that Free Trade there would be by no means an
+unmixed blessing for English manufacturers, for whereas at the present
+time a vessel going to Australia from the United States with a cargo of
+goods has to come back in ballast, doubling the cost of freight, under
+Free Trade it would take back a cargo of wool, and the Americans would
+consequently become our competitors both in buying and selling.
+
+With the single exception of having higher wages--and this advantage is
+more than balanced by the extra cost of living--I have failed to find
+that American artisans are in any way better off than the English, while,
+as I have already shown, their hours of labour are longer and the effect
+of the climate much more exhausting.
+
+A very striking feature to be met with in most American cities and towns
+is the large number of tolerably respectable-looking men loafing about
+and doing nothing.  In England such men, only in shabbier dress, would be
+called "cadgers."  I am told there are large numbers who prefer any
+shifty mode of obtaining a living so long as they can wear a black coat
+and avoid honest labour.  In the villages along the banks of the Hudson I
+saw more children without shoes and stockings than are to be met with in
+any part of England in a similar area.  They go to school shoeless, and a
+woman told me that when shoes were put on their feet on Sundays they
+complained loudly.  A land of freedom for tongue and foot!
+
+During the Southern rebellion fears were expressed that the result of
+emancipation would be to flood the markets of the North with negro
+labour, but this does not appear to have been the case.  As long as
+slavery existed the North was attractive to the negro as the land of
+freedom, but when freedom was proclaimed throughout the States the negro
+naturally elected to remain where he had always been--the climate and
+surroundings being well suited to him.  The head waiter at our hotel at
+West Point was a slave in Richmond until the middle of the war, when he
+escaped to Washington.  I asked him how he got there.  "Oh, by the
+underground railway," said he.  It took him a week to travel the hundred
+miles, and he had many narrow escapes, but was fortunate enough to come
+out all right and to get a situation to wait upon one of Abraham
+Lincoln's sons.  He told me his owner, a lady, taught him to read and
+write in face of the certainty of being sent to jail in case of being
+discovered.  His father was sold away down south sixteen years before,
+but since that day they had again met at Richmond.  "Well," I said,
+"neither Jeff. Davis nor any of his crew will ever play you such pranks
+again."  "No Sir," said he.
+
+The regulation of the liquor traffic in the American cities appears to
+present as many difficulties as it does in England, especially as regards
+the Sunday traffic.  The Sunday before we left New York the police made a
+raid upon the liquor dealers in the city, and arrested a number of them
+for selling during prohibited hours.  Their organs threatened all sorts
+of reprisals at the coming election, and a meeting of the trade was
+called to condemn the action of the authorities.  Most of the
+requisitionists--judging by their names--were either German or Irish.  At
+the time appointed some hundreds of liquor dealers assembled, and
+presently a gentleman came on the platform and began to address them.
+Soon, however, it began to dawn upon the trade that they had been
+somewhat considerably sold, for the speaker gave them a regular teetotal
+lecture, enlarging upon the evils the dealers were responsible for, and
+warning them to forsake their wicked ways.  The audience could not stand
+this, and threatened the orator that if he didn't "make tracks right
+away" they would give him "something hot," upon which he quietly retired,
+having given them the first temperance lecture they had ever heard.
+
+Our visit to America was brought to a fitting termination by another
+glorious excursion on the Hudson: after which it was with great pleasure
+and satisfaction that we went on board one of the splendid White Star
+Liners, soon to land again on the shores of dear old England.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+We arrived off Suez about four o'clock on the morning of the 1st of
+March, having travelled from Australia in the magnificent steamship
+"Orient."  After saying farewell to our friends, at seven o'clock we set
+out for the shore, our boat being manned by a picturesque party of Arabs.
+We had about four miles to go, the latter portion of the journey being
+through water so shallow that the men had to propel the boat by nimbly
+running forward and placing one end of the oar in the mud and pushing
+against the other with the shoulder; singing a monotonous song all the
+while.  On arriving at our landing-place opposite the Custom House, a
+motley crowd rushed forward, some dressed in night-shirts, some in
+towels, others in their own black skins only. When we stopped, a score of
+them dashed into the water and began to seize our luggage, seeing which
+our boatmen called to us to beat them on the head with our umbrellas, and
+to kick them off; but we managed to defend our property by loud words,
+which broke no bones.  Then we were carried ashore amidst such shrieking,
+hustling, jostling, and shouting as I had never heard or seen before.
+The luggage was set down in the middle of the square to await the arrival
+of an official from the Custom House.
+
+                          [Picture: A Dragoman]
+
+After a very slight examination we were permitted to pass, and then began
+another battle for the luggage; but we selected as our dragoman a tall,
+stout fellow named Hassan, who quickly routed the others; and then a file
+of these half-naked Arabs marched off to the hotel with the luggage on
+their backs.  The Suez Hotel is a very comfortable establishment, with
+large, clean, and airy rooms, and bright and attentive native servants.
+
+After breakfast we went for a stroll through the town.  The streets are
+very narrow, and the tiny shops are filled with vegetables and other
+garden produce, oils, simple metal wares, etc.  In one street the Bedouin
+Arabs have stalls for the sale of charcoal, brought by them from the
+desert; a very sullen, repulsive set of fellows they appear to be.  There
+are few European buildings, and what there are were built for the French
+officials during the construction of the Canal.  These were all vacated
+during the Franco-German war, and very few French have since returned,
+consequently the houses are in a very dilapidated condition.
+
+Before leaving England we had arranged for a party of our friends to meet
+us at Suez, and on returning from our stroll in the town, we walked for a
+while in the large inner court of the hotel, when presently we saw our
+friends entering, they having landed just three hours after our arrival
+from Australia.
+
+After lunch, nine of us took donkeys and had a ride round the town and
+neighbourhood.  Not being assured of my riding ability, I asked my
+companions to keep near me, which they promised to do, and which they
+doubtless would have done if they could; but alas! their noble brutes
+dashed off at full speed, and I was left alone.  At every street corner
+stood a mob of darkies shouting, laughing, and begging, and calling out
+the names of the various donkeys, "Mrs. Langtry," "Mrs. Cornwallis West"
+(this was mine), "Mr. Spurgeon," etc.  On getting back to the hotel gates
+there was a crowd of about fifty donkeys, all their fifty drivers wanting
+us to engage them for our next ride, and it required a vigorous use of
+Hassan's stick to clear a passage for us.
+
+On the following morning we left for Cairo by train, and in due time
+Hassan appeared with about a dozen men and a shaky old wagon to take our
+luggage to the station, and truly it was a formidable lot--a lady and
+gentleman from Australia having no less than nine trunks.
+
+                    [Picture: An Egyptian Donkey-Boy]
+
+At the hotel gate stood the usual fifty donkeys, their drivers all
+shrieking out to you to take their donkeys.  "My donkey good donkey, sah;
+his name, Mrs. Langtry."  "'Dis donkey, Sir Roggar (_sic_) Tichborne,
+sah; he go gentle."  You have to push through the crowd of men and
+animals as you best can.  The never-ceasing word _backsheesh_, or its
+abbreviation _'sheesh_, hissing in your ear all the way.  On suddenly
+turning a corner you may come upon a lot of children or grown-up people
+engaged in play or other occupation, but they are always ready.  Their
+hands are immediately stretched out, and the cry is on their lips,
+_'sheesh_! _'sheesh_! nor do they seem surprised if you fail to respond.
+Sometimes I vary it by putting out my own hand, with temporary success as
+far as checking their begging goes, but they are soon equal to the
+occasion, and with mock gravity will offer a quarter piastre--about a
+halfpenny--and then you laugh and they laugh.
+
+I had often read, that properly to understand Biblical allusions it is
+necessary to travel in the East.  This constant extending of the hand for
+_backsheesh_ gave me an entirely new appreciation of the passage,
+"Ethiopia shall yet stretch forth her hand."
+
+After much excitement the train at last starts, and a mob accompanied it
+as far as they can keep up by running, hoping against hope that you will
+at length relent and throw them some money.  Once I offered a beggar a
+new penny, but he handed it back very gravely, saying "No good--piastre"
+(meaning that he wanted a piastre); but I pretended to be offended, and
+did not give him anything.
+
+Every little station on the road is infested with crowds of natives
+hoping for _backsheesh_, and it is wonderful what vast numbers of people
+there are who have nothing to do.  At most stations you will see an
+ill-favoured fellow with a goat-skin across his back, filled with water,
+but I should have to be very thirsty indeed before I could drink from it.
+An hour after leaving Suez we saw our old friend the s.s. Orient in the
+Canal close alongside, having taken twenty-four hours to accomplish this
+distance.
+
+                      [Picture: The S.S. "Orient."]
+
+At Ismailia we stopped some time, and a lad wanted to clean my boots
+which, however, did not require cleaning, so I told him to black the bare
+feet of a brown boy who was standing by.  This he proceeded to do in the
+presence of a crowd of grinning spectators of all colours--yellow, brown,
+coffee-coloured, and jet black.  The lad whose feet were blacked seemed
+to enjoy the fun very much, and when it was over appeared to think he was
+entitled to a half piastre as well as the operator, so he got it.  The
+shoeblack then brought an ebony Nubian, whose skin was already a shining
+black.  He asked me if he might do his feet, but I made him understand it
+was quite unnecessary.  A grave-looking Turk observing the proceedings
+gave a look which seemed to say, "Mad English again."
+
+At Zagazig we stayed two hours for luncheon, and were much interested
+with the infinite variety of costume and feature among the crowds
+thronging the station.  About half an hour before reaching Cairo, on
+looking through the window, we had our first view of the Pyramids.  On
+our arrival at Cairo we were greeted with a chorus of the usual kind, but
+having "wired" to the hotel a porter was awaiting us with an omnibus, and
+we were soon comfortably located in the new Grand Hotel.
+
+A walk to the Nile Bridge gave us a good view of the river.  The road to
+the Pyramids passes for some distance through a fine avenue of trees, and
+the river having encroached on the soil too near to the roots, we saw for
+the first time a phase of Egyptian life which is not pleasant--viz.,
+forced labour.  About 1,500 men were engaged in piling up earth against
+the roots, forming a thick, deep embankment against the river.  The soil
+is carried in baskets, and from the elevation where we stood the men
+looked like a swarm of ants.  These men are provided by the Sheiks of the
+villages on the demand of the Government, who pay nothing whatever for
+the labour.  The men receive neither wages nor food, but each village
+looks after the families of its absentees, and attends to their work
+until their return.  The men certainly seemed to labour with a will.
+
+The Nile begins to rise about the end of June, reaching its greatest
+height about the end of September, continuing for about fifteen days at
+twenty-four feet above low-water level.  If the rise be thirty feet great
+damage is done, and if it fail to reach eighteen feet famine ensues.
+
+We rode for some distance along the valley of the Nile, which varies from
+two to twelve miles in width.  It is very fertile, the soil being more
+than forty feet deep.  It is only needful to sow the seed immediately
+after the inundation, and in about four months the harvest is ready to be
+gathered.  The plough in use is a very primitive article; but the
+looseness of the soil renders stronger ploughs unnecessary.  In many
+places as we went along we saw the natives irrigating by means of the
+bucket and pole, with a counterbalance at the end (_shadouf_), raising
+water from the Nile and sending it along the channels over the fields.
+In one field we saw agriculture being carried on as Adam would have done
+before the Fall, had it been necessary, the men being quite naked, and
+digging the earth with their hands.
+
+Returning to the city we took a walk through old Cairo, along the narrow
+streets, passing many little workshops where various trades were being
+carried on, the owners appearing pleased at our noticing them at work.
+In one place some men were grinding beans with a huge pestle and mortar,
+and showed us some of the meal.  In a secluded corner we saw about a
+dozen old fellows in every variety of costume sitting on the ground
+listening to a very animated story being told by one of the party.  They
+appeared to be greatly interested, every now and then lifting up their
+hands in amazement.  These professional story-tellers are a great
+institution in Cairo.
+
+Passing down one of the narrow streets our attention was arrested by the
+busy hum of children's' voices, which we found proceeded from an upper
+room, the casement of which was open.  Our guide told us it was a school,
+and that the children were repeating passages from the Koran.
+
+                   [Picture: The Schoolmaster "Abroad"]
+
+One of our party, who had not forgotten the pranks of his boyhood, threw
+a number of new threepenny pieces into the midst of the boys, causing
+great excitement and confusion.  Presently an old man, with a fringe of
+white hair encircling his dark face, and wearing a huge pair of
+brass-framed spectacles, appeared at the open window brandishing his cane
+at us, but in a moment his whole attitude changed, and holding out his
+hand he uttered the familiar cry of--_backsheesh_.
+
+                           [Picture: A "Peep"]
+
+Our walk took us through one of the bazaars, which consist of very narrow
+lanes full of shops, with dealers in every variety of goods, most of
+which are made in the open.  We were particularly struck with the
+beautiful embroideries of gold and silver thread, and the expeditious way
+in which the workmen executed the various designs.  All were very anxious
+we should buy, and I overheard one old rascal offer our Coptic guide ten
+per cent. commission on our purchases.  We, however, made none.  In
+passing the carpet bazaar we saw an English party buying dingy carpets.
+
+The most interesting part of our day's experiences was spent in the
+manufacturing quarter.  There are no large factories in Cairo, and I
+question if more than half a dozen people are employed at any one place.
+The work is carried on in the most primitive fashion in the little shops
+facing the street.
+
+                      [Picture: "Bery Cheap, Sah!"]
+
+There can be but few secrets in the various trades, as the workshops are
+all shallow, and open to the streets.  All the jewellers are in one
+street about 8ft. in width, each of them being provided with a safe,
+obviously of English manufacture.  I do not think, however, that the
+bellows used by them were made in Birmingham, for it was curious to note
+that they had no valves.  At the end of the jewellers' street sits an old
+fellow like Abraham or Isaac, weighing precious metals in a pair of
+evidently very accurate scales.  This man acted as general weigher for
+the trade, and his operations were carried on in the face of the public.
+Leaving the bazaars we met a crowd of natives gesticulating, shouting,
+and frolicking in a very excited manner.  Standing aside to allow the
+throng to pass, we found it was a bridal procession conducting a bride to
+her husband's home.  A few tattered minstrels walked in front, making a
+hideous noise on pipes and drums, while a gang of young men jumped and
+danced about, and indulged in the wildest horse-play.  The women were
+ornamented with strips of gilt paper and coloured ribbons, and had their
+cheeks thickly coated with rouge.  The bride walked under a canopy
+consisting of four poles covered with canvas and was quite enclosed.
+Sometimes this portable tent would collapse upon the fair one, whose
+struggles were prominently manifested by bulges in the canvas.  The whole
+party seemed to be making the most of the occasion.
+
+We next visited the mosque of Sultan Hassan, which was built in the 14th
+century, at a cost of 600 per day for the three years it took to
+complete.  It is the finest mosque in Cairo.  While standing beside the
+Sultan's tomb within the mosque our guide related its history.  He said
+that for three years the Sultan had been absent from Egypt on
+pilgrimages, and that during his absence his Grand Vizier declared
+himself Sultan.  Hassan hearing of this returned to Cairo in the disguise
+of a poor pilgrim, and finding that he had still many adherents he
+consulted with some of the principal of them as to the best way of
+regaining his rights.  He first obtained permission to build this mosque,
+and when it was finished his partisans assembled in the building in large
+numbers.
+
+                  [Picture: The Mosque of Sultan Hassan]
+
+Hassan, still in the pilgrim's habit, rose to preach to the people--this
+was the preconcerted signal for a general massacre of the usurper and his
+supporters; and thus Hassan recovered his throne.  At the entrance to the
+mosque our boots were covered with sandals, so that our feet might not
+touch the holy floor; but custom does not demand the removal of the hat.
+In the court-yard is a fountain where the faithful perform their
+ablutions before prayer.  In front of the niche looking towards Mecca
+were about a dozen persons at their devotions.  Just in advance of them
+stood a mollah or priest, and as he bowed his head or kneeled they did
+the same, concluding with chanting or singing a prayer.  Whilst we were
+looking around a little boy was following us, keeping a sharp look out
+lest our slippers should come off, and if they showed any signs of coming
+loose he at once brought up a man to fasten them.
+
+One of the sights of Cairo is the egg-hatching establishment.  This
+institution is rendered necessary, because the hens are too idle to hatch
+their eggs in this country, consequently the operation has to be
+artificially performed.  The people bring their eggs to the hatching
+place and receive one chicken for every two eggs.  I observed the
+Egyptian eggs are very small, due also to the laziness of the hens,
+doubtless.
+
+We next visited the citadel and the mosque of Mohammed Ali, a magnificent
+pile, built early in this century.  In the courtyard of this place the
+Mamelukes in 1811 were massacred by order of Mohammed Ali.  Fearing their
+power he invited them to the mosque, and closing the gates slaughtered
+them all, save one who escaped by leaping with his horse from the
+parapet.  The horse was killed, but the rider was uninjured.  About 450
+persons were here massacred, and 800 in other parts of the city.  The
+citadel commands a magnificent view of the city and surrounding country,
+and every evening large parties of tourists assemble there to see the
+sunset.
+
+The excursion to the Pyramids of Gizeh is now much more easily made since
+Ismail completed the carriage road by way of compliment to our Royal
+Princes on their visit.  Our party was conveyed in carriages, while
+donkeys had been previously sent forward for the use of the ladies.
+While on the carriage-road the view of the Pyramids is altogether lost
+till within a mile of the end of the journey, acacias having been thickly
+planted on either side of the road.  On leaving the carriages we were at
+once surrounded by beggars, who continued to infest us all the time we
+were in the neighbourhood.  Some were loud, almost menacing in their
+demands, others soft and insinuating.  One kind, which I call the "quiet
+devil" or "familiar," creeps by your side, and whispers in your ear
+confidentially that he is "a good man"; that the others are "bad men";
+that he will not bother you for anything; that you are "a good man"; that
+he will "help you, and keep off the others."  But alas! he too is sure to
+whisper in conclusion _backsheesh_.  If the road is a little rough these
+"good men" seem to fancy you cannot get on without help, so one on each
+side puts a hand under your arm and half carries you along.  It is quite
+useless to protest; they look at you as though they would say, "poor man!
+he thinks he can walk by himself; but we know better; he would fall at
+once did we not hold him up."  And then, when we reach level ground
+again, there is a universal chorus of--_'sheesh_, _backsheesh_.
+
+                  [Picture: Ascending the Great Pyramid]
+
+On arriving at the little house at the foot of the Pyramids our guide
+Abaid summoned the Sheik of the village, who proceeded to detail two men
+for each person who intended to make the ascent--ladies and fat men being
+allotted four men each to help them up.  The weather being extremely hot
+my sister and I were content to see the rest of the party make the ascent
+while we sat in a shady place at the base.  A group of twenty Arabs of
+the most patriarchal aspect squatted on the ground in front of us in a
+half-circle; immediately our eyes fell upon any one of them he mutely
+extended one hand--not so much to help us as to be helped--instantly
+lowering it without complaint on our looking elsewhere.  This would
+become monotonous.  I would occasionally show by my look that I was
+annoyed, upon which the beggar would get a crack over his head from one
+of his neighbours.
+
+The Great Pyramid of Cheops is 732ft. along the base line and 460ft.
+high, covering an area of 536,000 square feet--about equal in extent to
+Lincoln's Inn Fields in London.  Its height is about 60ft. higher than
+the cross on St. Paul's Cathedral.  My wife managed the ascent very well,
+and also went with the rest to explore the interior, and all seemed
+greatly pleased with their exploits.  A fee of two francs to the Sheik
+and a franc a piece to the helpers is the regular charge for each person;
+but even the Sheik is not above taking a little extra by way of
+_backsheesh_.  Our party were quite ready for their lunch, which Abaid
+quickly spread out in the little house provided by the Government for the
+accommodation of visitors.  We were shown into a large room, and while at
+table the doorways were filled with a hungry crowd, quarrelling,
+laughing, and jostling each other.
+
+                       [Picture: View on the Nile]
+
+Some of the bolder spirits at length got into the room, but our guide
+seizing his stick administered two or three heavy blows, and soon cleared
+them out.  It was wonderful to see how tamely big men will allow
+themselves to be driven.  Truly the stick is a great institution in
+Egypt, although perhaps none but the ruling class would acquiesce in the
+inscription found in one of the ancient tombs to the effect that "The
+stick came down from heaven--a blessing from God."
+
+Before sitting down to eat, a boy brought water that we might wash our
+hands.  The mode was certainly primitive.  We had to hold our hands out
+of the window while he poured water over them.  A noisy crowd of Arabs
+were sitting under another window, and a barber in the midst was
+operating upon the head of one of them, and it was really wonderful how
+cleverly he shaved, making a clean sweep of every lock and every hair.  I
+asked Abaid if the men were under a vow, but he said it was because
+summer was coming on, and it would be cooler without hair.
+
+                          [Picture: The Sphinx]
+
+After a scene of great confusion in paying the various claimants, during
+which the Sheik had to make a vigorous use of his long stick, we started
+to see the Sphinx, which is about 500 yards off.  Before leaving, I
+called the Sheik and gave him two francs, that he might instruct his men
+to keep the mob from us.  This he accepted with great solemnity, and in
+parting shook hands in a most impressive manner.
+
+                      [Picture: A Wash and a Shave]
+
+The Sphinx is cut out of the solid rock, and is about thirty feet from
+the top of the head to the bottom of the chin, and about fourteen feet
+across the face, the body being 140 feet long.  I could see no beauty in
+the face, the features being almost obliterated.
+
+Near the Sphinx is a fine underground temple formed of immense granite
+blocks and polished alabaster.  The pavement is of granite and is
+perfectly smooth.  Some of the finest statues at Bulak were found in a
+well adjoining this temple.
+
+Leaving our hotel at seven a.m., we started for Gizeh station _en route_
+for Sakkara, the railway taking us as far as Bedrashen.  We had engaged
+eleven donkeys for carrying our party and the food necessary for the
+whole day's refreshment.  The confusion at Gizeh station in obtaining our
+tickets and getting the donkeys into the train was something tremendous.
+Fortunately, the morning was rather cool.
+
+On arriving at Bedrashen we had some difficulty in finding the right
+donkeys, and I had great misgivings about the prospective five hours'
+ride; but at last we got fairly off, and by degrees my confidence
+returned.  We soon reached Mitrahineh, the site of ancient Memphis, now
+only marked by a vast number of heaps and mounds of rubbish, under which
+are doubtless buried many treasures of ancient Egyptian art.  A number of
+articles which have been recently dug out were shown in a rude enclosure;
+one or two of the statues beautifully executed.  Lying in a pool, face
+downwards, is a statue of Ramses II. belonging to the British Museum, but
+the authorities of that institution have not yet taken the trouble to
+remove it.  The statue is 50ft. long, and is of siliceous limestone, very
+hard, and bearing a high polish.  In one hand the figure holds a scroll
+bearing his name, and at his side is his little daughter, reaching to his
+knee.  The face is still quite smooth, the features are sharply cut and
+delicately finished, and the expression perfectly preserved, looking
+really beautiful.  Memphis was said by Herodotus to extend for six miles.
+It was conquered in turns by Persians, Assyrians, and Romans, each of
+whom did their share towards ruining it, and when at last the Mohammedans
+conquered the country, its doom was sealed, and the stones of its palace
+and temples taken away to build the new city of Cairo.  The dykes being
+no longer kept in repair, the overflow of the Nile gradually piled up the
+mud year by year, and this, with the sand from the desert, has, in the
+course of ages, made Memphis little more than a name.  Memphis is called
+in the Bible _Noph_, and in the time of the Patriarchs was the capital of
+Lower Egypt; but the prophecy of Jeremiah, xlvi. 19, has been literally
+fulfilled: "Noph shall be waste and desolate."
+
+Leaving Memphis we go on to Sakkara, for thousands of years the ancient
+Necropolis or burying-ground.  In the centre stands the great Step
+Pyramid, built in steps of comparatively small pieces of stone.  It is
+said to be not only the oldest pyramid, but also the most ancient
+monument of any kind in the world.  The cemetery is four and a half miles
+long by an average of three-fourths of a mile in width, and being full of
+holes it is necessary to be very careful in crossing it.  The ground is
+strewed with skulls and other human bones, some of the former being of
+great thickness.  Soon we reached the house of Mariette Bey, built for
+his use when he was engaged in his explorations, and here, by his
+permission, parties are at liberty to rest and take their lunch.
+
+The first object of interest is the Serapeum, or Apis Mausoleum.  When
+alive, the sacred bull was worshipped in a splendid temple at Memphis,
+and lodged in an adjoining palace.  When dead he was buried in this
+mausoleum, in a vault excavated out of the solid rock, his body being
+placed in a huge sarcophagus hewn out of a single piece of granite, and
+hollowed into a regular square to receive the body.  A cover, also of
+granite, and weighing many tons, was then placed over it.  The size of
+the sarcophagus is 13ft. long, 7ft. 6in. wide, and 11ft. high.
+
+This mausoleum had for ages been known to exist somewhere, but no one
+knew the locality.  The ancient Strabo wrote, "There is also a serapeum
+in a very sandy spot where drifts of sand are raised by the wind to such
+a degree that we saw some sphinxes buried up to their heads, and others
+half covered."  Mariette, recollecting this passage, observed in 1860 a
+sphinx's head appearing through the sand, and it at once occurred to him
+that this must be the site of the avenue of which mention is made by
+another ancient writer, so he commenced a clearing and laid bare 141
+sphinxes.  To do this he had to make a cutting in the sand 70ft. deep;
+but at length he was rewarded by discovering the entrance to the
+mausoleum.
+
+                     [Picture: The Serapeum, Sakkara]
+
+There are several galleries for the different dynasties, but only one is
+now shown, the interments in which date from 650 B.C. down to 50 B.C.
+The galleries extend for 400 yards, and there are now twenty-four
+sarcophagi in their places.  Three of these are beautifully sculptured.
+One of them is of polished granite, and although the engraving is only
+1/16 in. deep, a mere scratch in the polish, it is as clear as when first
+done, over 2,000 years ago, and so perfect is the stone that it rings
+like a bell when struck.
+
+From the Serapeum we proceeded to examine one of the tombs, also
+excavated by Mariette Bey.  It is called the Tomb of Tih.  Over the
+doorways of these ancient tombs it was the custom to inscribe the name
+and titles of the deceased, and also an invocation to the God of Tombs
+(the tomb having been built during life by the person himself), with
+these objects:--
+
+1st.--To accord to deceased propitious funeral-rites, and a good
+burial-place after a long and happy life.
+
+2nd.--To be favourably disposed to deceased in his journey beyond the
+tomb.
+
+3rd.--To secure to him, to all eternity, the proper payment of
+funeral-offerings by his relations.
+
+A list of these offerings is carved upon the walls, which are covered
+with sculptures representing the scenes in which the deceased had been
+engaged during life, ending with a representation of the conveyance of
+the mummy to the tomb.  The tomb itself contains several apartments, in
+which the relatives met upon certain anniversaries to present
+votive-offerings, etc.
+
+We were astonished to see the perfect state of preservation in which the
+tomb remains.  The sculptures on the walls are as sharp and clear and the
+colours apparently as bright as when laid on.  Sand is a good
+preservative when not in motion, and to this must the marvel be ascribed.
+Over the door is the inscription giving Tih's name, and stating that he
+was a priest; and on the walls of the first chamber are representations
+showing statues of Tih being embarked in boats and oxen being brought for
+sacrifice, one of them being offered up.  There is another showing Tih
+with his wife and family watching his people at work in the farmyard.
+Some of them are bringing sacks of grain for the poultry; others are
+fattening the birds by making and forcing pellets of flour down their
+throats.  Behind this there is a view of the farm-buildings, the roofs
+being supported on carved wooden pillars.
+
+                     [Picture: From the Tomb of Tih]
+
+In the middle there is a pool where ducks are swimming, while cattle are
+seen pasturing in the fields around.  Among the birds Tih kept are cranes
+and pigeons, ducks and geese.  He had also cattle of every size and kind,
+including antelopes, gazelles, and wild goats.  Then come the boats
+filled with jars and bales transporting farm produce down the Nile.  In
+another place men are shown carrying fruits and vegetables, and pigeons
+in cages.  Farther on are seen men drawing statues enclosed in temples of
+wood, half-a-dozen dragging with ropes, while one pours water on the road
+to make it easier.  In another room Till is shown as a sportsman in a
+boat; in one hand he holds a decoy-bird, while with the other he hurls a
+curved stick like an Australian boomerang.  In the water are seen
+crocodiles and hippopotami: a crocodile and hippopotamus are fighting,
+the latter being evidently victorious; some of the servants are trying to
+catch them, and the hippopotamus is just being hooked with a sort of
+harpoon.  (This scene recalls the verse in Job, "Canst thou draw out the
+leviathan with a hook?")  Here again the fish are being drawn in nets
+into the boats, while the work of the farm goes vigorously on.  Cows are
+seen crossing a ford and browsing in a field, while herdsmen are driving
+a flock of goats.  Oxen are ploughing just as we saw them in the fields
+to-day, and with a very similar plough.  The seed is being sown, corn
+reaped, and men with three-pronged forks are gathering it into heaps
+while the oxen are treading it out.  In another place the corn is being
+tied into sheaves, and donkeys are being brought up with much fuss and
+use of the stick to take it to the granaries.  Some of these scenes are
+drawn with inimitable humour.  Carpenters are engaged in making
+furniture, and shipwrights in building boats, while Tih is always present
+directing each operation.
+
+The Egyptians were said by Diodorus to call their houses hostelries, and
+their tombs their everlasting homes.
+
+We now remounted our donkeys, and for an hour rode over the sandy desert
+through dreadful mud villages, from which all the population turned out
+as we passed, crying with all their might--_'sheesh_, _'sheesh_,
+_backsheesh_, _'sheesh_, _'sheesh_.
+
+Passing several strings of camels--which I described as "camelcades,"
+coining a word for the purpose--we soon regained the delightfully fertile
+country which is watered by the Nile.  For more than two hours we trotted
+and galloped along through a very rich country, where hundreds of acres
+of date-palms were growing--where the young corn was waving, and peas,
+beans, and cucumbers in great luxuriance--no more dust nor sand, but a
+pleasant breeze and bright sun, with nothing to mar the pleasure except
+the sight of the wretched natives.  Most of the children are absolutely
+naked, while their parents' clothes are of the most limited description.
+
+             [Picture: A Camelcade (sketched by the Author)]
+
+We halted for lunch under some palm-trees by a branch of the Nile, and
+then proceeded to the carriages, which we had ordered to meet us in the
+Gizeh road.  Some of us had to ride back into Cairo on our donkeys, and
+on our way we passed the Khedive, who cordially acknowledged our
+salutation.  All our party agreed in saying that to-day's excursion was
+one of the most delightful we had ever had.
+
+                     [Picture: Prayers in the Desert]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the Dancing
+and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal _zikr_ or ceremonial
+on that day.  We first visited the convent of the dancing Dervishes and
+witnessed one of their performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it
+was. In the centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is
+railed off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall
+"tile" without brims are sitting opposite the door.  They looked like a
+lot of ancient "Friends" at the head of a meeting.  In the gallery above
+were some musicians, one of whom was playing a flute in a melancholy
+manner, and another reciting a prayer.  At a certain point the Dervishes
+within the circle bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin
+walking round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the
+Chief Priest or Sheik.  On passing the carpet upon which the Sheik has
+been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated two or three times;
+then they go into the middle of the enclosure, spreading out their
+garments like ladies in the old minuet; the music quickens, and they
+begin to whirl around on one foot, occasionally touching the ground with
+the other.  The performers' eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but
+they keep on in perfect order--never touching one another--while the old
+Priest walks about among them.  Some of the more experienced Dervishes
+can revolve fifty or sixty times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half
+an hour.  It was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no
+_backsheesh_ was demanded, the Priests being supported by endowments and
+occasional gifts from the Khedive.  Mounting our donkeys we rode off to
+the Howling Dervishes, where we found them in full howl.  About twenty of
+them were engaged in making the most hideous noise imaginable.  These
+fellows had their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their
+heads in the wildest manner.  Every time they raise their heads they
+utter the word _HU_ (God alone), which sounds like the yell of a wild
+beast, at times the excitement rising to such a height that some of them
+would foam at the mouth and fall to the ground apparently in a fit.  They
+wound up their proceedings with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt.  These
+Dervishes, like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government
+endowment.
+
+I have no doubt that when first instituted these "pious orgies" were
+entered upon with a due sense of solemnity, and I believe in places
+remote from the regular tourist route the religious feeling still
+predominates, but the Howling and Dancing Dervishes in Cairo have long
+since become one of the regular sights to which foreign visitors are
+always taken.
+
+Upon the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present, more
+than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter being a
+placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her, was calmly
+surveying the "creaturely activity" of the Howling enthusiasts.
+
+We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley's Schools, at the British
+Mission.  There are over 300 native children here, and we heard many of
+them read in English and French, and also do some exercises in
+translation.  The girls were engaged in embroidering, reading, and
+writing, and they sang two hymns in Arabic while we stayed.  Then we saw
+them muster for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into
+the middle of the hall and repeated the Lord's Prayer, first in English
+and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most orderly manner.
+Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the result of her many years'
+labours; but I have no doubt she has had her times of discouragement.  My
+wife visited an Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told
+her that after two years' continuous labour amongst the people of his
+district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was greatly
+discouraged and was inclined to abandon the mission.  Calling the people
+together he told them of his disappointment, and said that although he
+had worked diligently amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to
+be no better than before, and that he felt that he must leave them.  The
+people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways, began to
+be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet again.  One man
+got up in the meeting and said, "Teacher, you must not go, you have made
+us much better.  When you came first there was a woman living near who
+used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but now," he said,
+"_she only steals the eggs_."  The superintendent's features somewhat
+relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs immediately
+perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a woman rising and
+saying, "Teacher, when you came first my neighbour's son used to thrash
+his mother every day, but since he has been at your school he only
+thrashes her once a month."  The superintendent remained, and is well
+satisfied with the progress which has since been made.
+
+In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue, which is the
+Rotten Row of Cairo.  The custom is to drive quickly up one side,
+returning slowly on the other, the drive occupying an hour.  The Khedive
+drove past us in his carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows
+(_sais_) whose duty it is to run in front of the carriage.  They were
+dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a silk
+sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long tassel, legs and
+feet bare, and in the hand a handsome staff.  These men run quite as fast
+as the horses, keep up the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed
+to clear the crowded streets for the carriages.  This they do by shouting
+loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual.  The avenue was
+crowded with carriages, some of them containing ladies of the harem.
+Their carriages have windows all round.
+
+                       [Picture: A Runner, or Sais]
+
+Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave only the eyes
+uncovered, while some (the prettiest, presumably) wear only thin gauze
+veils, through which their faces are plainly to be seen.  All wear the
+same languishing expression, and appear to be very fond of peeping at the
+Europeans, and as we passed and repassed them they would recognise us
+with a smile, and then, to save appearances, turn away.  When we passed
+the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the Khedive's
+carriage, and drew up in saluting order.
+
+                       [Picture: In Shubra Avenue]
+
+They were greatly disgusted on discovering their mistake.  At four
+o'clock a general stampede of carriages, horsemen, runners, and
+pedestrians takes place, and the road is soon quite deserted.
+
+One of the features of Cairene life is the universal use of donkeys by
+all classes of the people; ancient women shrouded from head to foot in
+black gauze, old men with long grey beards, and noses not much
+shorter--their heads wrapped in turbans, and robes covering the donkeys'
+backs--jogging along, rubbing against the British tourist, the latter
+looking anything but grave and serious on his Jerusalem pony.  Our party
+certainly did not look more _bizarre_ than others; but we should not feel
+inclined to enter Birmingham in the same state as we often entered and
+left Cairo.
+
+                        [Picture: Water Carriers]
+
+One morning we got up early for a donkey-ride across the Nile to see,
+amongst other things, the garden and farm produce arrive from the country
+round.  Crossing the Nile we turned down a fine avenue of sycamores, two
+or three miles long.  The Khedive's gardens lie on one side and the river
+at the other.  Moored to the river bank was an Englishman's _dahabieh_ or
+Nile boat.  A party had just returned from the cataracts, and on the
+upper deck we observed a dead crocodile.  Riding by one palace towards
+another, we passed a crowd of people on their way to market, with
+bullocks, goats, camels laden with clover, women with the round cakes so
+common here, and a great variety of other things.  Presently we sighted
+the Pyramids, one side lit up with the morning sun, while another was in
+deep shadow.  The Sphinx was also plainly to be seen.
+
+Leaving the Gizeh Road leading to the Pyramids we turned towards Cairo,
+our donkeys instantly knowing that we were homeward-bound, and needing no
+persuasion to gallop back to breakfast.  On nearing the bridge we came
+upon hosts of camels, donkeys, and oxen laden with produce, and being
+assessed for the octroi or town-tax.  The police were armed with long
+spikes, which they pushed into the load to ascertain if anything else was
+packed inside.  It was an interesting scene--the busy crowd, the
+magnificent river, and the brilliant morning sunshine making up a picture
+not easily forgotten.
+
+One of the most interesting drives in the neighbourhood of Cairo is to
+Heliopolis--part of the way lying through a fine avenue of acacias--and
+passing the old camping ground used as a _rendezvous_ by the Mecca
+pilgrims.  It is the old caravan road, and stretches far away into the
+desert, from which came to us a delightfully fresh breeze.  We also
+passed the Abbaseyeh Palace, built by Abbas Pasha, who, fearing
+assassination, lived here in seclusion, keeping sentinels on the towers
+to give warning of the approach of a mob, and
+
+                   [Picture: The Tombs of the Khalifs]
+
+dromedaries and fleet horses always ready saddled for escape into the
+desert.  He was, however, murdered at last in spite of all his
+precautions.
+
+Along the road are some beautiful plantations of palms, oranges, and
+lemons, castor-oil and other plants growing in the greatest luxuriance.
+Heaps of oranges were lying on the ground.  After driving through a fine
+olive plantation we came out upon an extensive plain, where, in 1517,
+Sultan Selim defeated the last of the Mameluke Dynasty, and made Egypt a
+Turkish province.  Here too, in 1800, the French defeated the Turks and
+regained possession of Cairo.  Our guide called a halt in order to show
+us a fine old sycamore, called the virgin's tree, under which Joseph and
+Mary are said to have rested during their flight into Egypt.  I asked
+Abaid if he believed the story.  Placing his hand upon his heart and
+bowing his head, he replied, with something of the sententiousness of a
+Dr. Johnson, "Sir, I am a Christian!"  I felt inclined to tell him that I
+also was a Christian, but that I did not believe it; but then why should
+I disturb his honest belief?  Soon the obelisk of Heliopolis came in
+view, and we knew we were near it by the crowd of youngsters swarming
+round the carriage.  But I adopted my old plan of being the first to ask
+for _backsheesh_, causing them to laugh so heartily that they could
+hardly take up the cry.
+
+The obelisk is about 6ft. square at the base and about 68ft. high; it is
+the oldest in Egypt, and was erected by the founder of the twelfth
+dynasty.  The inscriptions on its four sides give its history and the
+account of its erection about 3,000 B.C.
+
+                       [Picture: A Street in Bulak]
+
+Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in Exodus is called
+ON.  It was here that Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah,
+and where Moses became learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians.  Here
+Plato and Herodotus studied, and Josephus says--"The city was given to
+the Children of Israel as their residence when they came down into
+Egypt."  The obelisk, as we see it, was old when Abraham came into the
+country; but, notwithstanding its venerable age and intensely interesting
+associations, it has not been too sacred for tourists who have been
+caught chipping pieces off the edges.
+
+After lunch we drove to Bulak, an interesting suburb of Cairo.  The
+houses are very old, and the street-scenes very curious and thoroughly
+Eastern in character.  The large overhanging windows and casements
+familiar in pictures are everywhere to be seen, and now and then a
+glimpse of a female face is caught peeping furtively out at the
+passers-by.  The streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and
+shouts at the foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip
+to quicken their movements.  All this is taken patiently--far too much
+so--and betrays the saddest side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes
+for the way in which the people have been treated.
+
+Hard by was a curious sight.  Standing against a wall, and raised above
+the level of the street like another Simon Stylites, was a
+strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted of a sack, through a
+hole in which one arm was thrust.  In his hand he held a small instrument
+like a garden-rake, with which he tortured his back, while his gaze
+"seemed upon the future bent."  Some irreverent tourists looking on were
+presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon which the
+holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and then resumed his
+gaze into futurity.
+
+                         [Picture: A Holy Fakir]
+
+It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap theatres,
+peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in England.  In
+another place was a story-teller, surrounded by an appreciative audience,
+who treated every "point" with loud laughter.  It was curious to see how
+earnest and interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which
+the story was told.
+
+The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by Mariette Bey, is
+situated in Bulak.  Our time being short, we proposed paying it another
+visit, which, however, we were unfortunately unable to do.  Much of the
+sculpture is really marvellous in its life-like character.  One of the
+most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years old.
+It is admirably carved.  There is also a large collection of jewellery,
+beads, enamels, etc.; chess and draughtboards, an artist's paint-box and
+brushes, bread, eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe
+of gilt bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve
+silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities.  The museum is one of the
+most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay many visits.
+
+In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and returned to
+Bulak to see some of the shows, but the first they visited was of so
+extraordinary a character they decided to see no more until their taste
+was educated up or down to the present Egyptian standard.
+
+The railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6.5 hours.
+The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country being very flat all
+the way.
+
+The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very interesting to watch
+the various agricultural operations as we rode along.  We particularly
+noticed the many modes in which water is supplied to the land.  Alongside
+the railway runs a stream issuing from the Nile, and the different
+holdings of land are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.
+
+                 [Picture: A Wrecked Ship of the Desert]
+
+At the junction of these streamlets with the main stream may frequently
+be seen a couple of men standing on either bank lifting water from the
+river to the streamlets by means of a huge flat bowl, holding probably
+eight to ten gallons.  This vessel is lifted on either side by means of
+two long handles diverging from each other, and it is surprising how
+large a quantity of water can be thrown up by means of it in an hour.
+The bowl is always in motion with a fine swing, and it is evident the men
+are working on their own account.
+
+Every station at which we stopped is crowded with people selling oranges,
+water, etc., and very clever they are at their business too, very
+persuasive, and as quick as thought to see if you are inclined to buy.
+The children are the merriest, liveliest things imaginable, with bright
+eyes and shining white teeth.  Here also may be seen numbers of beggars,
+young and old, calling out eternal _backsheesh_.  We saw some venerable
+old fellows, bent nearly double with age, and with hair and whiskers
+quite white, who entreated us piteously to help them, saying "Got no
+mother, got no father, _backsheesh_!"  Such orphans as these never
+obtained our sympathy, although they afforded us great amusement.
+
+While in Cairo, news came of the dissolution of Parliament by Lord
+Beaconsfield, and we hastened to Alexandria to take the steamer for Italy
+on the following day; but on arriving we found the weather so excessively
+rough that the steamers were detained: and, as there seemed no prospect
+of getting off, we determined to proceed to Port Said, by way of
+Ismailia, in order to take the steamer sailing thence for Naples, hoping
+on some future occasion to be able to see what is to be seen in
+Alexandria.  A day's railway-ride brought us to Ismailia, from which
+place we took the evening mail-boat to Port Said.  The night was very
+cold, and after a seven hours' trip on the Canal it was very pleasant to
+find ourselves in the magnificent hotel built by Prince Henry of the
+Netherlands, attached to the Dutch factory at Port Said.
+
+One of the Orient Steamers was due to sail on the following day, and we
+expected to proceed to Naples in her, but after providing us with tickets
+the agent sent us word that she had been detained a week and that we must
+choose another vessel.  There was no other way of escape than by taking
+the P. and 0. Steamer "Mongolia" to Malta, trusting to being able to find
+a ready means of crossing to Naples from that place.  Unfortunately a
+heavy storm in the Mediterranean had the effect of delaying our arrival
+in Malta some hours, and we had the mortification of seeing the Naples
+steamer leaving the harbour as we were entering it.  We arrived on Monday
+and found there would not be another steamer until Thursday, and as the
+Birmingham election was to take place on Wednesday in the following week
+our chance of getting there seemed very doubtful.  Leaving Malta,
+however, on the Thursday, by dint of almost continual travelling night
+and day, we arrived safely in Birmingham at half-past ten on the
+Wednesday morning, and proceeded at once to register our votes for Bright
+and Chamberlain, two of the three successful Liberal candidates.
+
+                           [Picture: Au Revoir]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII. {226}
+
+
+                       [Picture: In the Suez Canal]
+
+After a stormy passage through the Mediterranean we turned in towards
+Port Said, and soon after sighting the handsome lighthouse took the
+French pilot on board, anchoring broadside on to the main street of the
+town and within fifty yards of the shore.  A motley throng, in boats
+quite as motley soon filled up the space between the ship and the shore,
+and a wild jabber composed of a mixture of English, French, Italian, and
+Arabic filled the air.  Presently the usual tribe of pedlars came on
+deck, and having spread out their wares invited the passengers to buy,
+somewhat after the fashion of London tradesmen in Cheapside hundreds of
+years ago with their cry of "What lack ye?"  The inevitable Maltese with
+his lace, the Greek money-changer walking about with his hands full of
+silver offering to change, and astonishing the honest Britisher on his
+first voyage by his liberality in proffering twenty shillings for a
+sovereign--the rate of exchange, however, leaving him a very good profit.
+Near him is a Hebrew, whom I remember having seen at Aden, the black
+curls over his brow reminding one forcibly of Benjamin Disraeli.  This
+man keeps to his trade of dealer in ostrich feathers.
+
+                      [Picture: A Feather Merchant]
+
+Here also are gentlemen of the long robe--not lawyers, but Arabs, in
+ample white night-shirts and turbans--offering to young ladies in the
+most seductive tones, at two shillings each, coral necklaces, which can
+be purchased in Birmingham at three shillings the dozen, while dealers in
+photographs, melons, and oranges walk about always ready to take
+one-fourth of what they ask for their wares.  Parallel with us are the
+quays, on which are crowds of people of all nationalities.  The Custom
+House in front is occupied by a company of English artillerymen, the
+entrance being guarded by a British sentry, while overhead the Egyptian
+flag is flying.  Away to the left is the old Dutch hotel, recently bought
+by the British Government, and now occupied by two hundred men of the
+Royal Marine Light Infantry.
+
+Immediately in front of the ship is the main street of the town.  It is
+perfectly straight and about half a mile long, with a small public garden
+near the end.  In this street are a large number of _casinos_, where
+music is dealt out at nights by bands of female performers, who are
+called "Bohemiennes," and where, we are assured, everything is properly
+respectable--until eleven o'clock!  Many of our lady passengers, in the
+innocence of their hearts, looking forward to a pleasant concert during
+the evening, are much shocked when they learn that the said concerts are
+held in _casinos_.
+
+We landed at ten o'clock, and had a leisurely walk through the town and
+halfway through the Arab quarter, but the smells were so offensive that
+we turned back.  A lot of young Arabs, however, urged us to go on
+farther, for there was an Arab hanging, but as we did not think a dead
+Arab would be likely to be a more agreeable sight than a living one we
+declined.  The culprit had been executed that morning for the murder of
+his grand-daughter, nine months previously.  An account of his crime was
+written in Arabic and attached to his breast, and the large scissors with
+which he committed the murder were suspended around his neck.  Some of
+the young Arabs were vexed with us because we would not give them
+_backsheesh_, and began to be insulting, talking about Arabi, when
+presently a smart youth of ten years old interfered, and, cuffing the
+ears of the young monkeys, loudly proclaimed the prowess of the British.
+
+We went to look at the Dutch House where the Marines were quartered, and
+a young officer, Lieutenant Cotter, kindly asked us to go over the
+building.  The rooms are very fine; but what a change in the scene since
+we slept here for a night two-and-half years ago!  Then the hotel was in
+operation, and the rooms were furnished as elaborately as in the house of
+an English gentleman.  But everything had been taken away, and the
+officers were sleeping on the marble floors, and the men on the floors of
+the adjoining warehouses, where also the horses were stabled.  Lieutenant
+Cotter had made a bedstead for himself, and one of his men had made him a
+bath, and these, with a chair, completed the furnishing of his room; his
+wash-basin consisted of a large flower-pot, with a cork in the hole at
+the bottom.  The Marines arrived in Egypt a few days after Tel-el-Kebir,
+and so saw no fighting; but they had to march over to Fort Gemileh, seven
+miles away, and fully expected a very severe fight, as the fort is
+heavily armed with modern guns, and was manned by Nubians, who are
+reported to be excellent soldiers.  Fortunately, however, there was no
+need to fight, as the commander recognised that the war was over.
+
+At night a number of our passengers, of all classes, went ashore to
+attend the concert, and one of them known as Cetewayo, _alias_ the Carrib
+or the Pirate King, announced his intention of kicking up a great row at
+the _casino_ (of course _after_ eleven o'clock), and he was as good as
+his word, and others besides, several having to be locked up for the
+night.  We visited the soldiers in the barracks, and they were very glad
+to have a chat.  We sent them the newspapers we had brought from England;
+with which they were greatly pleased.  They told us the numbers, variety,
+and voracity of the insects was something maddening; some being busy at
+night, and others during the day, and that it was almost impossible to
+keep oneself decent.  Altogether Port Said must be a dreadful place for
+Englishmen to live in; there was very little society, and I was told that
+at the time there was only one unmarried lady left.
+
+The commanding officer of the Marines told us that the principal duty
+they had to perform as "police" was to keep the English sailors and
+visitors in order, almost all the drunkenness and trouble coming from
+them--to our disgrace be it said.
+
+The land all along the coast lies very low, and is not seen until the
+yellowish-green water near it is reached.  The water is discoloured by
+the mud of the Nile, one of the mouths of which (the Tanitic) is situated
+a little to the west of Port Said.  This ceaseless flow of mud was one of
+the greatest difficulties experienced in making the Canal, and
+necessitated important and expensive works to prevent its access to the
+harbour.  Lake Menzaleh is formed by this Nile mouth, and covers an area
+of about 1,000 square miles.  Good wildfowl shooting is to be had there,
+and there are numbers of flamingos and other birds.  Port Said, as is
+well known, owes its origin to the Canal, and is situated on an island
+separating Lake Menzaleh from the Mediterranean.  The town was expected
+by M. de Lesseps to progress very rapidly--indeed to rival Alexandria,
+but it has not gone ahead so fast as he expected.  At present there are
+about 12,000 people there, and I should say more than half are Europeans.
+The town is built very regularly, and consists of rather temporary brick
+and wooden houses.  The making of the harbour was a very difficult work.
+It occupies 570 acres, and is excavated to a depth of 26ft.  Two massive
+piers protect it, running out to the sea in a north-easterly direction
+for about a mile and a half.  At starting they are 1,440 yards apart,
+narrowing to 770 yards, the navigable entrance being about 150 yards
+wide.  The piers are constructed of artificial stone, composed of seven
+parts of sand from the desert, and of one part of hydraulic lime from
+France.  The concrete was mixed by machinery, and then poured into great
+wooden moulds, where it remained for weeks, after which the wood was
+taken away to allow of the blocks hardening.  Each block weighed twenty
+tons, and contained 13.5 cubic yards; no fewer than 25,000 of these
+blocks were used in constructing the breakwater.  The lighthouse is a
+very handsome structure, and is also formed of blocks of concrete; it is
+164ft. high, and can be seen twenty-four miles away, being fitted with
+the electric light.  (_Baedeker_).
+
+At 4.30 p.m. our vessel started for the Canal, and having safely entered
+it made fast for the night, as no travelling is allowed after sunset.
+During the evening myriads of gnats and mosquitoes came on to the ship,
+the electric light being absolutely dimmed by them in many places, and we
+had good reason to expect a trying night from their presence.
+
+While our ship's doctor and a party of friends were ashore at Port Said
+they were greatly amused by the attention of a number of Arab lads who
+followed them everywhere.  During their walk in the native quarter the
+party came upon a great crowd, and one of the young Arabs referring to
+the man who had been hanged during the morning stated that the man was
+not an Arab, but a Greek, and proceeded to explain the distinguishing
+characteristics of the various nationalities represented at this
+cosmopolitan port; he said--
+
+"The Greek, he bery bat man, he stab--so (with a vigorous motion as
+though stabbing an opponent in the chest).
+
+"'gyptian, he bery goot man, he only slap, so.
+
+"English man, he bery goot man (striking an attitude); he say 'Come on
+and box.'
+
+"English man--he bery goot man.
+
+"English man--he bery goot man.
+
+"Melikan man--he bery goot man.
+
+"Melikan man--he bery goot man.
+
+"'talian man--he bery bat man."
+
+Ending with a very uncomplimentary allusion to our Irish fellow-subjects.
+
+What is wanted to make Port Said really prosperous is a railway from the
+interior to bring the produce from the cotton and wheat fields, and then
+the steamers which bring the coals could at once load up for home, saving
+the necessity of going empty to Alexandria for their homeward freights.
+Last year 540,000 tons of coal were sold at Port Said, and all the ships
+which brought it had to go away empty.  But so long as the Canal Company
+are entitled to all the Customs dues at Port Said, it is not to be
+expected that the Egyptian Government will favour the construction of
+such a line.
+
+Some of our fellow-passengers were members of the Blue Ribbon Army, and
+although they were by no means obtrusive in supporting their views, being
+contented for the most part with wearing the "bit of blue"--others
+resented this reasonable liberty, styling it an impertinence, and formed
+themselves into an opposition Order, which they called the _Red_ Ribbon
+Army, and they busied themselves in enlisting recruits.  It was
+noticeable that, with the exception of an old _roue_ or two, only young
+men with small heads and long legs, who, if they ever indulged in
+reading, confined their choice to books translated or adapted from the
+French, composed the rank and file, the officers being older men, who
+were not often seen out of the gambling or smoke-room.  One of these
+latter was called the "Spider," because from an early hour in the morning
+he sat in the smoke-room waiting to "play" with any who might choose to
+try conclusions with him.
+
+The Patron and President of the Society was a noble lord, and certainly a
+better choice could not have been made.  Amongst the rules of the Society
+were these:--
+
+    Any member found without his red ribbon is to be fined in drinks all
+    round.
+
+    Members are to be neither too drunk nor too sober.
+
+    Members must never go to bed quite sober.
+
+    Members must never refuse a drink.
+
+The President certainly set a fair example in his endeavour to perform
+the duties of his office, and would never be mistaken for a member of the
+Blue Ribbon Army, even if he did not wear the badge, for good wine had
+marked him for its own.  Under the fostering influence of such rules and
+such a "noble" example, it is not to be wondered at that the Army showed
+a blatant front to the enemy, and that their proceedings soon became
+disorderly.  At this juncture some good-natured moderate men joined the
+Reds, with the view, it appears, of moderating their offensive tactics,
+and the result was a manifesto which set forth, amongst other
+things--That the Red Ribbon Army entertained no feelings of ill-will
+toward those who did not agree with them, and invited all to join their
+ranks, and that they assured abstainers that there was always iced water
+on the sideboard of the smoke room for their convenience.  One of the
+chiefs of the Reds was a dark man, already referred to as Cetewayo,
+_alias_ the Carrib.  I one day heard this worthy call one of the Reds to
+account for appearing without his badge, the defaulting member replying
+that he had "resigned."  "That won't do," said the Carrib, "Once a member
+always a member; come and pay up."  Yes, I thought, when the devil has
+once got his claws in a man retreat is all but impossible.
+
+Every one of the young fellows who joined the Reds fell into the
+"Spider's" web, and were most of them eased of their spare cash through
+the agency of a pack of cards.
+
+This "Spider" was one day on deck sitting by the side of one of my
+friends who had just awaked from a doze, to whom he said, "You have had a
+nap?"  "Yes," I said, "Mr. -- takes his nap on deck in the face of day,
+but you have yours in the dimness of the smoke-room" (alluding to the
+game of "Nap").  "That's true," said he, "I like to play when the light
+is somewhat dull.  These fellows say I am always winning.  Well, suppose
+I am?  They keep coming to me, and in Melbourne if they consult an expert
+on any subject they have to pay two guineas, and I take no less."  "You
+take no less, and don't refuse more," said I.  "Exactly, that is just
+it," said the Spider, and he was said to have cleared out most of the
+card-playing fraternity.  Ultimately, the almost unvaried success of the
+Spider caused a general feeling to be raised against him amongst the
+gamblers; but as long as there still remained some who had not been
+relieved of their money, and others whom the Spider had allowed to win
+from him occasionally, this feeling did not exist to any great extent.
+One evening, however, the Pirate charged the web-spinner with having
+cheated him, and a general disturbance ensued, the Pirate assuring the
+Spider that as soon as they quitted the ship he would soundly thrash him
+with a whip, which he displayed, so we were in hopes of having a little
+excitement on leaving the vessel.  One result, however, was to
+practically dissolve the Red Ribbon army, and the Carrib then came out in
+a new character.  At the fancy dress ball held on the promenade deck he
+appeared in a dress suit, and was at once saluted with the cry, "Here's a
+lark, Cetewayo disguised as a _gentleman_!"
+
+The noble President of the Reds was somewhat of a curiosity in his way, a
+very kind-hearted sympathetic man, as many a poor invalid in the second
+and third classes could testify.  The doctor told us of many instances of
+his lordship's kindness in visiting some of the sick third-class
+passengers, and giving them dainties from his private stores; and I heard
+one poor woman tell him she should never forget him for his goodness to
+her husband.  Some of our colonial passengers, wishing to make the most
+of their unusual proximity to nobility, were too persevering in their
+attentions to his lordship, and evidently bored him; but the tact with
+which he "shunted" them, and the studied politeness of his language, did
+not prevent onlookers detecting a silent "confound their impudence"
+terminating each reply.
+
+               [Picture: Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman]
+
+Once, in referring to the pertinacity of these people, he remarked to a
+bystander, in a hissing tone, "One _must_ be civ-il."  The noble lord
+took a great interest in everything pertaining to sailors; his regard for
+them was evidently warm and genuine.  While we were passing through the
+Canal, coming to our anchorage for the night, we found the space at our
+disposal was very limited, as the vessels were numerous, consequently our
+men had to be very active in getting the ship into her berth.  I was
+standing by his lordship's side, looking at the sailors running along the
+sandbank, carrying the heavy cable as nimbly as though it was a fishing
+line.  Lord -- was delighted, and, turning to me, and in his funny
+fashion grasping his clothes in front of the place where his stomach
+should be, exclaimed in tones of rapture, "Look at our _de-ah_
+blue-jackets, look!"
+
+His lordship was very popular with the young men on board, but I hope he
+did not often make such observations to them, as one young gentleman
+informed me he had made to him, speaking of his past life.  "I have
+committed many sins in my time," said his lordship, "and I hope to live
+to commit many more."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my companion and a
+friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who invited them to dine with
+him.  It soon became evident that intercourse would have to be conducted
+through interpreters, as Arabi understood neither French nor English, and
+his visitors were ignorant of Arabic.
+
+My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table caused him
+great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had given him strict
+orders to avoid.  What was to be done?  My companion explained to the
+invalid that in the East no greater affront could be given to a host than
+to decline to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided
+himself with Jack the Giant Killer's device for disposing of surplus
+food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain fearful forebodings.
+
+Arabi's personal appearance had greatly altered, he having grown a beard
+which was turning grey.  At the table with him were his two sons, lads
+apparently of ten and twelve years respectively.  On his left sat Fehmi
+Pasha, a man of very striking appearance with a face indicating
+considerable intellectual power.  Arabi desired to know what the English
+thought of him, a question which my companion parried by saying the
+English always respected a brave man.  Rising to take leave of the host,
+my companion patted the head of the eldest boy in a kindly manner.  This
+seemed to move Arabi in a singular way.  He rose and said, in a sharp
+tone of command, to his boys, "Salaam," then, crossing the room and
+placing his hand on my companion's shoulder, said with some emotion, "Ah,
+ah, good, good."
+
+Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place, without a
+single redeeming feature, in European eyes.  Those of our countrymen who
+are compelled to reside here in the service of the country are entitled
+to the deepest sympathy of every Englishman.  The possession of Aden is
+of considerable importance to England and to India, both as a coaling
+station and as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of
+less importance than formerly.  The islands commanding the channels at
+the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to the position, one of
+the most important being the Island of Perim, the acquisition of which
+does more credit to the _'cuteness_ of the British commander at Aden than
+to his sense of honour--that is, if the story told of him be true.  It is
+related that one evening, nearly forty years ago, two French war-ships
+cast anchor before Aden, and the English governor with a laudable desire
+to ascertain the object of their visit invited the commanders of the
+ships to dinner.  Unfortunately for France the officers were not
+teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British commander's wine
+strong, the gallant Frenchmen's tongues were loosened, and the perfidious
+Englishman ascertained that the mission with which his guests were
+charged was no less than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the
+name of Louis Philippe, King of the French!
+
+                         [Picture: Adenese Women]
+
+Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the captain of the
+English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all speed and in the
+strictest secrecy to take possession of the island in the name of the
+Queen!  The sun had risen before the festivities at the governor's
+residence had ceased, and then with many bows his guests departed to
+their ships, and shortly afterwards left Aden for their destination.  On
+arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined when they
+saw on the highest point on the island the British flag flying, and the
+gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the previous day anchored close
+inshore.  The incident gave occasion for much tall talk at the time on
+the part of the fiery French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear,
+gave fresh life to the cry of "Perfidious Albion."
+
+We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon as our
+steamer stopped, our old dragoman Hassan came on board with a huge packet
+of letters for us, and although he had only seen us once before, three
+years ago, he not only remembered our names but came straight to us and
+told us he had brought a boat for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged
+for us at the hotel.  We owed all this attention--which was most
+seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a malarious
+fever contracted in Australia--to Messrs. Cook and Son, who had been
+advised of my coming, and here I will say that in Egypt and Syria the
+name of "Cook" is the talisman which solves all difficulties and robs
+travelling of nearly all its inconveniences.
+
+On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour of the
+people since our previous visit.  On that occasion landing was effected
+under the greatest difficulties.  The people seemed to look upon us as
+fair prey.  It was almost impossible for us to keep our luggage together,
+and the insolent threatening manner in which _backsheesh_ was demanded
+was not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern country
+for the first time.  But now all was changed; instead of idle excited
+crowds loitering everywhere, everyone seemed to be engaged in some work,
+_backsheesh_ was rarely asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one
+refusal was enough.  Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when
+their proffered services were declined they went away with a "thank you."
+
+The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us that during
+the war he left it in charge of natives, and found everything safe and in
+order on his return.
+
+On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo, _via_ Ismailia and
+Tel-el-Kebir.  At many of the stations British soldiers were on guard, a
+part of their duty appearing to be the inspection of the natives'
+baggage; this was done amidst much good humour on both sides--indeed, all
+through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best possible terms
+with the people, as indeed there is every reason why he should be, for it
+is certain he has been the means of saving the people of Egypt from a
+tyranny of the worst kind--the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and
+military.  With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our party of four
+had arranged to have the whole of the compartment of the railway-carriage
+to ourselves.  It is true we paid extra for the convenience, but at one
+of the stations, the train being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured
+to enter, being prevented, however, by the Arab conductor.  The
+Frenchmen, with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to
+the Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas it
+was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there were eight
+persons in the compartment, although it was patent to all that there were
+only four.  "Four!" said the Frenchmen.  "Eight!" returned the guard,
+giving us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort
+_backsheesh_.  Ultimately our would-be companions were safely bestowed
+elsewhere.
+
+The railway passes by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the entrenchments
+stretching as far as the eye can reach.  When my companion went over the
+ground a few weeks after the battle it was covered with debris of every
+kind, clothing, arms, ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a
+battle-field.
+
+In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from the New
+Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from the Koran, and
+hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic, addressed to a soldier
+on the field, requesting him to authorise the writer to collect his rents
+in Cairo.
+
+On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of tourists who
+had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from the battle-field, but
+since my friend's visit in the autumn everything had been cleared off,
+and the new comers were gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous
+engagement.
+
+The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried is situated
+near to the station, and appeared to be kept in excellent order.
+
+In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement, latent
+insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our last visit, was
+very noticeable.  There, too, _backsheesh_ was rarely demanded, and most
+of the people seemed to have something to do.
+
+It was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town in all
+directions.  They seemed to be quite at home.  One of them informed me he
+had gone through the Transvaal campaign, but very much preferred the land
+of Goshen!
+
+While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the city was
+ever free from cholera or some other deadly epidemic.  The sanitary
+condition of the streets and public places was shocking in the extreme.
+
+Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government offices are
+the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with iron railings.
+Around the outside is a very handsome paved footpath, which, although in
+the very heart of the city, is in many places utterly impassable because
+of the unspeakable horrors accumulated upon it.  If the English
+occupation of Egypt does nothing more than cause the towns of that
+country to be properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many
+lives every few years as were lost in the late campaign.
+
+There are two classes of people who undoubtedly view the British
+occupation of Egypt with great and well-founded dislike--the military
+party and the pachas.  These classes have always played into each other's
+hands, and always at the expense of the down-trodden and patient
+fellaheen--the backbone and mainstay of the country.  For the latter
+class the presence of the British army is an almost unmixed blessing.
+
+From time immemorial the desirability of connecting the Mediterranean and
+Red Seas by a canal has been fully recognised; but the work does not
+appear to have been attempted before the reign of Pharaoh Necho, who
+undertook to construct a canal between the Nile and the Red Sea.  In
+carrying out this work 120,000 Egyptians perished, and before it was
+completed the King abandoned it, having been informed by the Oracle that
+the foreigners alone would profit by the work.  Eventually the canal was
+completed under the rule of Darius the Persian, and of the Ptolemies.
+
+The canal was carried through the lakes Balah and Menzaleh, another
+branch being constructed to the Bitter Lakes, into which the fresh water
+canal--watering the land of Goshen--emptied itself; but owing to the
+constant state of war it fell into decay, and was abandoned.
+
+Many suggestions as to the reopening of the waterway have been made in
+almost every generation since.  Bonaparte, during his expedition to Egypt
+in 1798, even caused the preliminary works to be undertaken.  His chief
+engineer surveyed the ground, but, owing to a serious miscalculation,
+threw great doubt on the possibility of carrying out the work.  He
+estimated the level of the Red Sea to be nearly 33ft. higher than that of
+the Mediterranean, an idea that Leibnitz ridiculed nearly a century
+before.  Vigorous protests against Lepere's theory were not wanting, but
+it was, nevertheless, sufficient to cause the abandonment of the scheme
+until Monsieur Lesseps directed his attention to the matter.  On his
+appointment as an Attache to the French Mission, Lesseps had to undergo a
+lengthy quarantine at Alexandria; here he was supplied with books by his
+Consul, among them being Lepere's memoirs respecting the scheme for
+connecting the two seas, the effect of which upon the young Frenchman's
+mind was never effaced.
+
+In 1847 a Commission of Engineers demonstrated the inaccuracy of Lepere's
+observations, and proved that the level of the two seas was practically
+the same.  In 1854 Lesseps having matured his plan laid it before the
+Viceroy, who determined to carry it out.  Palmerston, then premier, did
+his utmost, from political motives, to thwart the enterprise; but early
+in 1856 permission was given to commence the work.
+
+Considerable difficulty was experienced in raising the capital, but on
+the 25th April, 1858, operations were actually begun.  The Viceroy
+undertook to pay many of the current expenses, and provided 25,000
+workmen, who were to be paid and fed by the Company at an inexpensive
+rate, and were to be relieved every three months.  In order to provide
+these men with water 4,000 casks suitable for being carried on camels had
+to be made, and 1,600 of these animals were daily employed in bringing
+supplies, at a cost of 320 per day.
+
+At the end of December, 1863, the Fresh Water Canal was completed, by
+which the Company was relieved of the enormous expense of supplying the
+workmen with water.
+
+On the 18th March, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was allowed to
+flow into the nearly dry salt-incrusted basins of the Bitter Lakes, some
+parts of which lay forty feet below the level of the Mediterranean, while
+others required extensive dredging operations.  The Bitter Lakes have
+been identified with the Marah of the Bible (Exodus xv., 23--"And when
+they came to Marah, they could not drink of the waters of Marah for they
+were bitter").  The captain of our vessel informed me that in these lakes
+the saltness, and consequently the density, of the water is such as to
+cause the vessel to rise five inches above the ordinary waterline.
+
+The cost of constructing the Canal amounted to about 19,000,000, more
+than a third of which was contributed by the Khedive.  The original
+capital of the company in 400,000 shares amounted to 8,000,000, the
+difference being raised by loans payable at fixed intervals, and adding
+an annual burden to the scheme of 451,000.  The festivities connected
+with the opening of the Canal in 1869 cost the Khedive--that is to say
+the taxpayer of Egypt--14,200,000, or more than half the total capital!
+
+The great mercantile importance of the Canal is apparent from the
+following data:--Between London and Bombay forty-four per cent. of the
+distance is saved by through-going ships; between London and Hong Kong
+twenty-eight per cent., and between Marseilles and Bombay fifty-nine per
+cent.  Over eighty per cent. of the trade passing through the Canal is
+done in British vessels, and in 1875--or six years after the Canal was
+opened--the English traffic was equal to twelve times that of the French.
+
+In 1870, 486 steamers, representing 493,911 tons, passed through the
+canal, and in 1882 these figures had risen to 3,198 steamers with
+7,125,000 tons.  (_Baedeker_).
+
+From Port Said the Canal runs in a nearly straight line to Kantara (a
+mere group of sheds), its course lying across the shallow lagoon-like
+Lake Menzaleh, which has an average depth of only three feet.  The
+embankments are low, irregular sand-banks, formed of the dredged
+material, and having at the margin of the water a coarse growth of
+straggling sedgy-looking vegetation.  After passing Kantara, the Balah
+Lakes are reached, and the course is marked out in their open surface by
+a double line of buoys.  Then the most difficult portion of the original
+work is reached--viz., the cutting of El Guisr, which is six miles long,
+the depth from ground-level to surface of water being about forty-five
+feet.  This is by far the highest land in the Isthmus.  Leaving the El
+Guisr cutting, the open waters of Lake Timsah, (_Crocodile Lake_) are
+reached, and far away across its blue mirror-like surface stretches the
+double line of buoys, marking out the track.  On the northern shore of
+the lake, buried in a delightful mass of vegetation, lies the French town
+of Ismailia, once the great centre from which operations during the
+construction of the Canal were conducted, and now one of the principal
+stations whence its navigation is controlled by means of telegraph.  Lake
+Timsah has an area of some six or seven square miles, and the huge fleet
+of war vessels, transports, and tenders which Lord Wolseley used as a
+base for his operations in the late campaign lay there without
+difficulty.  From Lake Timsah the Suez Canal holds a roughly parallel
+course with the Freshwater Canal and the Suez line of railway, and passes
+through a long cutting into the Bitter Lakes, an extremely tame and
+uninteresting sheet of water some fifteen miles long, with flat, low,
+sandy banks, and thence into another long cutting--some twenty-six feet
+deep at Shalouf--after which the flat sandy plains of Suez are traversed,
+and the head of the gulf reached.
+
+The impression is general that the Suez Canal is cut through immense
+deposits of sand, or sand and water, but this is quite erroneous.  The
+desert, it is true, is sandy and sterile, but the sand is quite
+superficial, covering a gypseous clay, not at all difficult to work in.
+From Balah to the Bitter Lakes there is fine muddy sand, with clay at
+intervals, and at Serapeum a rocky barrier.  From the Bitter Lakes to
+Suez, however, there is a good clay, with limestone at Shalouf.  The
+sinuosities in the Canal are such as to render the passage of vessels
+over 400 feet long somewhat difficult.  It was expected that these curves
+would prevent the washing away of the banks, but it is doubtful whether
+they have at all contributed to the preservation of the sandy
+embankments.  Indeed, most of the predictions of the early destruction of
+the Canal by the operation of natural causes have been proved to be as
+ill-founded as such predictions generally are.  The banks have no
+ill-regulated propensity for crumbling away.  The Canal is _not_ in
+perpetual and imminent danger of being silted-up.  The enormous and
+costly dredging operations that were to swallow more than the revenue of
+the undertaking are unknown, and the sole matter for regret is that the
+Canal was not made as wide again as it is, for the accommodation of the
+vast traffic it has created.  Among the many confident prophesies made by
+professional engineers of the day, one stands recorded in the technical
+papers to the effect that every vessel must necessarily be towed through
+the Canal, the explanation being that the regulation speed of five miles
+per hour was not sufficient to afford steering "way"; hence, said the
+prophet, the slightest wind across the line of the Canal must infallibly
+blow ashore any vessel whose commander should have the temerity to
+attempt to steam between the two seas.  Experience, however, has shown
+that the largest vessels are under perfect command when propelled by
+their own engines.
+
+It is impossible for anyone to pass through the Canal without being
+impressed with the urgent necessity for vastly increased accommodation
+for the constantly augmenting traffic.  The delays occasioned by the
+difficulties in coaling, the blocks in the Canal--caused sometimes by the
+enormous traffic, and sometimes by the sinking of a ship across the
+narrow channel--are most vexatious.  No less than five days elapsed
+between the time of the arrival of our steamer at Port Said and of its
+departure from Suez, a distance of less than one hundred miles.
+
+In every way it is most unfortunate for English commerce that--thanks to
+the mulish obstinacy of Lord Palmerston--the management of the Canal
+should have been thrown into the hands of Frenchmen; for, while according
+the highest meed of praise to M. de Lesseps for his genius, tenacity of
+purpose, and energy, in designing and carrying out such a vast
+undertaking in the teeth of obstacles which would have daunted most men,
+it is impossible to ignore the fact that, as compared with English
+traffic-managers, the French officials responsible for the working of the
+Canal are vastly inferior in capacity.  The spirit of officialism as
+displayed by a liberal use of red tape, and a certain non-elasticity in
+carrying out the laws, so familiar to all travellers in France, exists in
+an intensified form in the local management of the Canal.  To the
+ordinary traveller through the Canal, for example, it seems absurd that
+vessels should be stopped for the night while some hours of light remain,
+yet as soon as the sun goes down no further advance can be made.  Again,
+although daylight comes long before sunrise, it is forbidden to move till
+the sun is up.  Then again, experience shows that by the use of the
+electric light the largest vessels can be handled with the utmost ease.
+An electric light fixed in the foremast of a ship sweeps the Canal from
+bank to bank, and for all practical purposes gives a light equal to that
+of day; it seems strange, therefore, that vessels possessing such
+appliances should not be permitted to proceed during the night.  If one
+ventures to make such a suggestion to a Canal official, he at once
+replies that the rules laid down for the regulation of the traffic forbid
+night passages, and if one further ventures to remind him that the said
+rules were made before the introduction of electric lighting, he shrugs
+his shoulders and plainly intimates that you have tried his patience long
+enough.
+
+A little delegation of authority from the chief office to the pilot or
+other Canal official on board the ships would at once result in a vast
+diminution of delay, and consequently in an increase to the capability of
+the Canal, but the genius of French administration appears to be opposed
+to the granting of any latitude or freedom of action to inferior
+officials, and so in the administration of the Canal everything is done
+by the official at the chief office in Ismailia, who transmits his orders
+by telegraph.
+
+But, after all the practicable improvements in the navigation of the
+present Canal have been made, the necessity for a new one will be no less
+urgent, and it is especially unfortunate that the Conservative party
+should have made negotiations with M. de Lesseps so difficult by openly
+suggesting that we should use our accidental supremacy in Egypt to
+advance the national interests, without regard to the rights possessed by
+him.  Whatever the actual status of M. de Lesseps, under his concession,
+may be, it is clear that he has always considered he had a monopoly.  At
+the outset he endeavoured to enlist British sympathy and capital in his
+undertaking by demonstrating that the bulk of the traffic must
+necessarily come from English sources.  Was it probable, therefore, he
+would have spent the Company's capital in making the Canal if, after
+having demonstrated its success, an English company were at liberty to
+make another, alongside, and take away four-fifths of its traffic?
+
+In business matters the French are proverbially short-sighted.  They fail
+to see that "three sixpences are better than one shilling," and are
+consequently unwilling to surrender present advantages without an
+absolute certainty of an early and great benefit arising from their doing
+so.  They are much more truly a nation of retailers or shopkeepers than
+the English are, notwithstanding Napoleon's famous epithet.  What is
+wanted is a greater breadth of view in the administration of the Canal,
+and it is in this respect that it is particularly unfortunate there is
+not a larger English representation on the Board of Management.  If we
+had a representation equal to our share of the capital, the result would
+soon be apparent in the adoption of a line of policy giving the utmost
+facilities to the Canal's customers, to the great advantage of both.
+
+The recent discussions upon the Suez Canal question cannot fail to be of
+the greatest use to the Government when they reopen negotiations with M.
+de Lesseps, and if the latter finds it impossible to make another canal
+without a further concession of land, he may probably think it advisable
+to conciliate his partner and chief customer by making greater
+concessions in return for the influence of the British Government with
+that of the Khedive and the Sultan on his behalf.
+
+But even if no further advantages for British commerce be obtained from
+the Canal Company, this country occupies a unique position as regards
+communication with the East.  In less than fifteen years the whole of the
+original cost of the British shares, both principal and interest, will
+have been paid out of profits, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer of the
+day will have to decide as to the destination of the revenue which the
+shares produce.  It appears to me that, after making provision for the
+necessary expenses attending the administration of the property, it would
+be both just and politic to return the balance to the owners of the ships
+whose use of the Canal has been the means of creating the revenue.  If
+this course be adopted British commerce will be immensely benefited, for
+our ships will be able to use the Canal at a little more than half the
+expense falling upon those of other nations, and this great advantage
+will have been obtained without having cost the British taxpayer a single
+penny.  The money will simply be returned into the hands which
+contributed it, and the proposal, therefore, does not in any way partake
+of the character of a bounty.
+
+What is known as the Dual Control was established in 1879.  By it the
+British and French Controllers-General were invested with considerable
+powers over the administration of the finances, in addition to which the
+Khedive undertook to assign a certain portion of the revenue for the
+discharge of the national obligations.
+
+In the following year a Law of Liquidation, as drawn up by the
+Commissioners appointed for the purpose, was issued with the agreement of
+all the interested European Powers.
+
+In return for these concessions, the Foreign Bondholders made a
+compromise with the Egyptian Government involving the surrender of a
+considerable portion of their claims.  This settlement, while relieving
+the country from an enormous burden, placed it in a position to meet its
+liabilities and to progress in the development of its resources, and, in
+the language of Lord Granville in his despatch to Lord Dufferin, "it was
+undoubtedly working well for the material prosperity of the country, and
+promised to do so for the future;" and in a subsequent despatch the
+Foreign Secretary declared that, through the action of the Control, great
+advantages had been secured for the natives, such as "the spread of
+education, the abolition of vexatious taxation, the establishment of the
+land-tax on a regular and equitable basis, and the diminution of forced
+labour."
+
+Our dragoman, an intelligent Copt, fully corroborated Lord Granville's
+statement.  He said that all that the Egyptian people required was
+moderate taxation, certainty as to its amount and as to the time of its
+collection, and such a military law as would relieve them from the
+press-gang.  He further said that before the institution of the Control,
+whenever the Khedive wanted a new ironclad, or a new palace, or half a
+dozen additional inmates for his harem, he ordered a new tax to be
+levied; this tax was sold to some of the rapacious pachas about the
+Palace, and resold by them to professional tax-gatherers.  These wretches
+committed the greatest atrocities upon the miserable fellaheen, exacting
+the uttermost farthing under the threat, and often the actual
+application, of torture; "but now," said my informant, "although the
+taxes are heavy, their amount is known, and they are collected in coin
+after the harvest has been gathered."
+
+The country was becoming very prosperous, and there was a surplus in the
+Treasury when, in February, 1881, a military riot broke out, originating
+in the arrest of certain Egyptian officers, among whom was the Colonel of
+the 1st Regiment.  The officers of this regiment broke into the Council
+Room of the Ministry of War, ill-treated the Minister, and then, having
+released the prisoners, proceeded to the Khedive's Palace, followed by
+the men of the regiment.  In menacing tones they demanded the dismissal
+of the Minister of War, and redress for their grievances.  Arabi Bey was
+one of the chief actors in this revolt.  The Khedive was compelled to
+submit, the mutinous colonels were reinstated, and tranquillity was
+restored for the time.
+
+The army officers were not long, however, in showing what their principal
+object was, for in a few weeks after the revolt, decrees were issued
+increasing the pay of the army and navy to the extent of nearly 60,000 a
+year.  The Controllers-General had now become aware that everything was
+at the disposal of the military party, and that the Minister could not
+guarantee that the officers would not next day insist upon fresh
+financial concessions.  The next demand made by the colonels was that
+nominations to vacant posts in regiments should rest with them, and this
+was granted.  The object of all this was clear enough--indeed, Arabi
+declared at one of the meetings of the Commission that "he would not
+yield unconditional obedience to the War Minister."  As time went on
+fresh symptoms of disaffection broke out, all indicating the
+determination of the military party to throw off all control and
+restraint.  In September the Ministry was dismissed at the instance of
+these same men, who throughout the remainder of the year continued a
+harassing series of turbulent outbreaks, gradually increasing in
+audacity, and more and more trenching upon matters of administration.
+They went so far as to demand an increase in the army, involving an
+annual addition to the estimates of 280,000, although the Controllers
+declared that not nearly half that amount was available.
+
+The principal figure in all these outbreaks was Arabi, who steadily kept
+himself at the head of the disaffected party, and gradually increased his
+influence.  After being appointed Under Secretary of War, then Chief
+Secretary, he was described by Sir E. Malet as having become "Arbiter of
+the destinies of the country."  In March he was made Pasha, and the
+Khedive was compelled to assent to a number of promotions by Arabi, who
+insisted on dispensing with the examination required by law for officers.
+In a word, the real power had become vested in the chiefs of the military
+party, and the objects of those chiefs were showing themselves more and
+more evidently to be, increase of the army, increase of pay and promotion
+of a large number of officers to high military rank--the desire of all
+such men in every country of the world.
+
+In the following month Arabi caused numerous arrests to be made among the
+officers and soldiery in consequence of an alleged conspiracy to murder
+him.  Among the prisoners was the Minister of War, who had been dismissed
+at the demand of the mutinous regiments in the previous February.  The
+prisoners were tried by a court-martial--irregularly constituted--and the
+proceedings were kept secret, while no counsel were allowed for the
+defence.  It was generally believed that torture had been used to extort
+confession.  Forty officers were condemned to exile for life to the
+farthest limits of the Soudan.  The Khedive, with great courage, refused
+to sanction the sentence, and issued a decree commuting it to simple
+banishment from Egypt.
+
+In the meantime the excitement continued to increase, and the Governments
+of France and England decided to send a naval force to Alexandria for the
+protection of the interests of their subjects in Egypt.  The combined
+fleet arrived at Alexandria on the 20th of May.  On June 11th the great
+riot and massacre of Europeans took place, Arabi in the meanwhile
+erecting new earthworks and strengthening the forts, in spite of his
+repeated assurances to the contrary.  On July 11th, the French fleet
+having withdrawn, and twenty-four hours' notice having expired, Admiral
+Seymour opened fire on the forts, and after a few hours completely
+silenced them; not, however, without his ships having suffered
+considerably in the encounter.
+
+The above is a sketch of Arabi's career from the time of his first coming
+into public notice to the time when he became Dictator.  He was at no
+pains to conceal his character as a military adventurer, and every
+successive step in his career proves him to have been no other.  It is
+true that during the last few weeks he appeared to carry the country with
+him, which, however, is not difficult to account for, seeing that he was
+"master of the legions," and that detachments of the army had been sent
+out into the highways and byways to compel men to come in at the point of
+the bayonet.  In ordinary times it is no uncommon thing to see a
+chain-gang going through the streets of Egyptian towns composed, not of
+criminals, but of unhappy wretches brought in by the press-gang for
+service in the army, and should any of them falter in their steps through
+weariness or despair, the heavy stick of the driver is always ready to
+descend upon their shoulders.  The only effect of the success of the
+movement headed by Arabi would have been the perpetuation and extension
+of this terrible state of things; and yet this is the man who has been
+persistently held up to the admiration of the world as a pure-minded
+patriot by a large section of what is called the Peace Party in England.
+In the towns Arabi and his agents worked upon the cupidity of the lower
+orders by telling them that he intended to drive the foreigners into the
+sea, and that their property should be given over to a general loot.  In
+the country districts, where the fellaheen are ground down under the heel
+of the usurer--always a foreigner, as the Koran forbids usury--Arabi
+promised to cancel the village debts, and banish the usurers; {259a}
+while in Upper Egypt, where usury is less common, he appealed to
+Mohammedan fanaticism.  But nowhere did he appeal to a national
+sentiment, {259b} until, indeed, by various devices, he had become
+absolute master of the country, when perhaps he thought he might say
+_L'Etat, c'est moi_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+A wretched journey of over eight hours by rail brought us to Alexandria
+shortly before midnight.  A fierce gale with rain prevailed during most
+of the journey, and owing to the dilapidated condition of the carriage,
+waterproofs were necessary to protect us from the rain, which, in spite
+of closed windows, found access to every part of the compartment.  The
+line itself and the whole of the rolling stock, were in a miserable
+condition of disrepair, and utterly unfit for traffic.
+
+The drive from the railway station to the Hotel Abbat gave us our first
+glimpse of the ruin wrought by the rioters.  The raging storm and
+drenching sleet were singularly in accord with the scene of desolation
+and misery on every hand.  After the long and cold railway journey, and
+the drive in the open vehicle from the station, we were in hopes of
+finding comfortable quarters in the hotel, but the wretchedness
+prevailing outside seemed to have penetrated into every corner of the
+establishment.  It was impossible to get anything hot to eat, and the
+cold meats were most uninviting.  The proprietor, expecting another train
+in about an hour, deferred serving even this cold cheer until its
+arrival.  Meanwhile nothing remained for us but to try to warm ourselves
+by pacing up and down the scantily-furnished _salle a manger_.
+
+                        [Picture: A Familiar Face]
+
+We were glad to get to bed notwithstanding that the carpets in the
+bedrooms were flapping in the wind in the most vigorous manner during the
+night.
+
+On rising next morning we found the storm had not abated, indeed it
+continued with undiminished fury during the whole of our stay.  Our time,
+however, being limited, it was necessary to disregard the weather in
+order to visit the scene of the recent operations and the ruins of the
+city.  On leaving the hotel our dragoman of three years ago, Kalifa, at
+once recognised us, and under his guidance we made a tour of the
+fortresses, going first to Ras-el-Tin.  We found the palace of that name,
+which forms the landward boundary of the fortress, still partially in
+ruins and apparently deserted.  One could not help feeling that the
+architect, in selecting such a site for a royal residence, must have
+regarded the possibility of an attack upon the fort from the sea as being
+too remote to be taken into account.  Some of the other forts had at one
+time stood isolated from the town, but apparently it might be said of the
+Alexandrians that
+
+    "Exceeding peace had made them bold,"
+
+for the approaches to the forts had gradually been built upon until at
+length some of the houses were even erected against the fortifications.
+These were the houses which were destroyed during the bombardment, and
+the ruin of which gave rise to the impression that the city itself had
+been shelled.  All the forts presented the same dismal aspect of ruin.
+Shattered ramparts, battered casemates, huge holes in the walls of the
+store-houses; the heavy Armstrong guns dismantled, some with the muzzle
+pointed high up in the air, others lying on the ground; in all cases the
+gun-carriages smashed and crushed into shapelessness; burst shells, and
+heaps of stones and mortar lying everywhere; great deep pits in the
+ground, showing where an "Inflexible" shell had burst.  The buildings and
+ramparts are of loosely-built stonework, hence wherever a shell struck,
+it told with full and destructive effect.  Here and there one could see
+that a single shell had penetrated a rampart, scattered the earth,
+upheaved a heavy Armstrong, and enveloped a casemate in a heap of
+demolished masonry.  In Fort Aida an explosion, which wrecked the whole
+place, occurred early in the action.  In the whole of the forts there
+were Armstrong guns of great calibre and of modern date.  Their
+appearance after the bombardment was most extraordinary: pieces knocked
+out of the muzzles, huge slabs sheared out of their sides, and in many
+cases the coils pitted with shot marks.  In most places, and at Fort Meks
+in particular, the muzzles were burst, but this was the work of the
+landing parties shortly after the action.  There can be no question that
+the armament of these forts was of a very formidable character, and that
+the condition of the fleet after the encounter might have been a very
+serious one had the guns throughout been well handled.
+
+After leaving the Forts we went with a friend, long resident in
+Alexandria, to Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the city.  The word
+Ramleh means "sand," and that being so it may be said that no place was
+ever more appropriately named.  It is a mere sand waste by the shore, and
+its villas are separated by sand wastes.  The effect is somewhat
+Australian, and the use of verandahs and Venetian shutters helps the
+suggestion.  Our friend's house was close to what is known as Gun Hill,
+that is, where the 40-pounders were, and from his Egyptian roof he could
+see Arabi's advanced position and the whole of the British camp.  At 4
+p.m. every day it was the custom to go and see the practice from Gun
+Hill.  Mr. A.'s house was open during the whole time, and he told us it
+was for the most part more like a picnic than a campaign.  The officers,
+however, were frequently called from his billiard table by an alarm from
+the camp, and on such occasions Mr. A. had an understanding with them
+that should the English be driven in they were to warn him when
+retreating past his house by firing a volley through his windows!  There
+were of course times of great anxiety notwithstanding the excitement and
+interest.
+
+Mr. A. was in Alexandria during the massacre, and at the time of the
+bombardment he was only away two days, being the first to return to his
+house and live in it.  While there, many of the neighbouring houses were
+looted.  His description of the daily shooting of looters reminded one of
+the accounts of the latter days of the Paris Commune.  Mr. A.'s garden is
+ornamented with heavy English shells, which, he tells his visitors, fell
+there--from a cart!
+
+During the afternoon we had a stroll through the European quarter of the
+city, and were amazed at the destruction to be seen on every hand.  The
+rows of fine houses, the shops, the buildings of the Grand Square, the
+Place Mohammed Ali, with its gardens, all a mass of unsightly ruins, from
+which workmen were getting out the stones and stacking them up in long
+rows on the footways.  We had been pretty familiar with Alexandria, but
+in the maze of ruined stonework we were completely at a loss and could
+not find our way.  Kalifa, however, came to our assistance, and guided by
+him we took a drive through the native quarter, and soon perceived that,
+though the destruction by incendiarism was unfortunately greatest in the
+European quarter, the _petroleurs_ had not spared their fellows, for many
+native houses were burned.  The extent to which property was destroyed is
+incredible.  There must be several miles of streets in the sheerest ruin.
+The poor shopkeepers of the Place Mohammed Ali now occupy temporary
+wooden shanties, and the general aspect of this once gay and opulent
+quarter is wretched in the extreme.
+
+We next day paid a visit to Fort Meks, but except that its armament was
+somewhat heavier than that of its fellows, there were no new features to
+be seen.  The same desolate appearance of ruin and destruction--crippled
+gun-carriages, burst guns, crumbling ramparts, and shell-ploughed ground.
+This fort, from the accuracy of its gun practice, was the most
+troublesome to the fleet.  The five terrible "Armstrongs," however, lay
+burst and useless in the sand drifts, with the rude and forgotten graves
+of the poor gunners round about them.
+
+A flood of misplaced eloquence has been expended in denouncing the
+conduct of the British Government for having "bombarded and utterly
+destroyed a defenceless commercial city," and the statement has been
+repeated so often as to be believed by many; but I will venture to say
+that no one will for one moment believe it who has had the opportunity,
+as I have, of being conducted over the city and the fortifications by an
+intelligent gentleman, an old resident, who was present during the whole
+of the operations, and who emphatically denies that the bombardment of
+the forts caused any greater damage than I have described.  The charge
+has come mainly from the advocates of peace; but it is a misfortune that
+such a sacred cause should be damaged by gross exaggerations, and by
+statements which it is impossible to sustain.  The cause of peace, like
+the temperance cause, has suffered greatly by this habit of exaggeration.
+
+At the _table d'hote_ I sat by an English officer who had been in the
+thick of the fight at Kassassin, and who had escaped unhurt; he did not
+seem inclined to say much about his experiences on that terrible day, but
+he entertained a great respect for the fighting capacity of the Egyptian
+soldier when properly led.
+
+During the whole of our stay in Alexandria the weather continued to be
+extremely boisterous and very cold, and we were glad to get on board the
+P. and 0. steamer for Brindisi.  Some Anglo-Indians joined the vessel
+here, and we had an opportunity of observing the way in which some of our
+countrymen treat native races.
+
+A crowd of Arabs in boats were alongside, offering their wares to the
+passengers as they stepped up the side of the ship.  Amongst the rest
+there was a man with his little daughter offering raw eggs, beads,
+shells, etc.  Two of the Anglo-Indians having bought a dozen of the eggs,
+and having stationed themselves in a convenient position on deck,
+proceeded to pelt the poor trader, completely spoiling his stock, and
+covering him and his child with the contents of the missiles.  During the
+voyage these fellows also behaved in a brutal manner towards the native
+stewards on board.  It is not to be wondered at that men like these
+object to judicial powers over Europeans being extended to natives, for
+it is probable that under the operation of the Ilbert Bill they would
+stand a fair chance of getting what they do not want--viz., justice.  It
+is not difficult to imagine how such men would act towards the natives if
+they were a thousand miles away from a court having jurisdiction in cases
+of violence on the part of Europeans against natives.
+
+Stay-at-home folks in England usually think of the Mediterranean as being
+calm as a lake, bathed in sunlight, and blue as the famous grotto in the
+Island of Capri; but such has not been my experience on the three
+occasions upon which I have traversed its length.
+
+Once, however, as we were leaving Alexandria, a very beautiful phenomenon
+presented itself.  The waters of the harbour were of a dead pale
+sea-green while outside the bar the Mediterranean was of an intense,
+opalescent, turquoise-blue, so exquisitely beautiful that the attention
+of the whole ship's company was directed upon it.  We presently crossed
+the bar and dipped right into this extraordinary colour.  The line of
+demarcation was clear and sharp, and lay just outside the harbour.
+
+On reaching the open sea we encountered a furious gale, which continued
+with varying intensity until our arrival off Brindisi four days
+afterwards--twenty-four hours after time.  The sea, which had been
+running high during the whole voyage, made a clean breach of the bridge
+on the last evening, necessitating the bringing of the vessel's head to
+the wind and "lying-to" for the night.
+
+On arrival off the entrance to the harbour no pilot was forthcoming, and
+it began to be whispered that we should not be permitted to land without
+undergoing quarantine; but happily our fears proved to be groundless, and
+the captain having run up a signal informing the port authorities of his
+intention to go in without a pilot, we were soon alongside, and on
+European soil once again.
+
+                [Picture: After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns]
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                 THE END.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+Albatross, The                                                27 @115}
+America (_see also_ United                                     135-178
+States)
+America--Journey across from San                                   147
+Francisco
+   Albany                                                          164
+   -- Schools at                                                   165
+   Alkali Plains, The                                              155
+   American Language                                               165
+   Andre, Major                                                    167
+   Appetising Mottoes and                                          160
+Sentiments
+   Arnold, General                                                 167
+   Bill of Fare, A Curious                                         160
+   Blue Gum, The (_illus_)                                         148
+   Brigham Young's Dominions                                       155
+   Bright, John                                                    151
+   Boats                                                           165
+   Bogus Ticket Sellers, Beware                                    157
+of
+   Buildings, Block of, Removed                                    161
+Bodily
+   Bull Frogs                                                      149
+   Buttes, The                                                     158
+   Canons                                                     152, 157
+   Cape Horn                                                       152
+   Catskill Mountains                                              165
+   Chicago                                                    160, 161
+   -- Fires in                                                     161
+   -- Streets in, Equal to Best                                    161
+in London
+   -- Timber Houses still                                          161
+Numerous
+   -- Water Supply for                                             161
+   Churches, Opposition                                            167
+   Corinne                                                         155
+   Corn over Ten Feet High                                         147
+   -- without Manure                                               147
+   Country like a Park                                             147
+   Cow-Catcher, The                                                154
+   Crash, A Tremendous                                             152
+   Descent of 8,000 feet                                           159
+   Detroit                                                         162
+   Devil's Slide, The (_illus_)                                    159
+   Dining Car, A Well-appointed                                    160
+   Dollar will Go a Long Way                                       168
+   Elevation, Greatest Attained                                    152
+   English Gold Refused                                            157
+   Eschscholtzias growing wild                                     147
+   Eucalyptus, The (_illus_)                                       148
+   Falls River                                                     164
+   Fields Hundreds of Acres in                                     147
+extent
+   Fires in Chicago                                                161
+   Flowers, Immense patches of                                     147
+   Free Country                                                    169
+   Gold-Diggings reworked by                                       149
+Chinese
+   -- Track through                                                148
+   Gum Tree, The (_illus_)                                         148
+   Hotel, The Grand Pacific,                                       162
+Chicago
+   Hudson River                                               165, 167
+   Identification a Difficult                                      161
+Task
+   I guess I'll take your Gold                                     157
+   Indians, Dreadful looking                                       149
+   -- on the War-Path                                              152
+   John Scales, Justice of the                                     168
+Peace (_illus_)
+   Justice, A Dealer in                                            168
+   Lake Ontario                                                    164
+   Language, American                                              164
+   Life on the Road, A New                                         161
+Feature of
+   Lupins growing wild                                             147
+   Marigolds, Patches of                                           147
+   Military Academy, West Point                                    167
+   Mineral Wealth, Untold                                          148
+   Money-Lender complains                                          148
+   Monument Rock (_illus_)                                         158
+   Mormon Advice                                                   154
+   -- Tabernacle Visited                                           157
+   -- Wives lack Cordiality                                        156
+   Narrow Escape                                                   151
+   Night Attack on Indians                                         153
+   Ogden                                                      156, 157
+   Omaha                                                           160
+   Pacific Railroad, A Single                                      151
+Track
+   Pallisades, The, Hudson River                                   166
+(_illus_)
+   Passport Found Useful                                           161
+   Pine Forests                                                    149
+   Poultry Secured by the Leg                                      169
+   Pullman Train, Life on Board                                    149
+   Railway Covered with Sheds                                      152
+   -- on Trestles                                                  157
+   -- Open to Prairie                                              154
+   -- Ride, a splendid one                                         177
+   Red Sandstone Rocks                                             158
+   Ride, A Long (Omaha to                                          160
+Chicago)
+   Rip van Winkle                                                  165
+   River Boats                                                     165
+   -- Hudson                                                  165, 167
+   Rome                                                            164
+   Sacramento Valley                                               147
+   Saints, Cruel Treatment by the                                  153
+   Salt Lake City Beautifully                                      156
+Situated
+   -- (_illus_)                                                    155
+   Sambo said "No Sah!"                                            159
+   Schools, National, at Albany                                    165
+   Snow Mountains                                                  149
+   -- Travelling through                                           157
+   Soil Twenty Feet Deep                                           147
+   Steamers on the Rivers                                          165
+   Streets in Chicago Equal to                                     161
+Best in London
+   Sulphur Spring                                                  157
+   Syracuse                                                        164
+   Taurus Meets the Train                                          154
+   Tennyson Claimed as an                                          165
+American Author
+   Timber Houses still Numerous                                    161
+in Chicago
+   Train, The Last Over                                            152
+   -- The, Met by Taurus                                           154
+   Trapper's Story, The                                            153
+   Turning Point between East and                                  152
+West
+   Utica                                                           164
+   Water Supply for Chicago                                        161
+   West Point, on the Hudson                                       167
+   Witches, The                                                    158
+American Grievance                                                 128
+-- Passengers from Honolulu                                        127
+Americans not good Sailors                                         127
+Ascension, Island of (_illus_)                                      17
+Auckland                                                           115
+Avoca (_illus_)                                                     67
+   Woolgrowers                                                      67
+Australian Colonies (_see also_                                    101
+Melbourne, Sydney, Victoria,
+Tasmania, New South Wales)
+   Agricultural Labour, A Fine                                     111
+Field for
+   Artisans, Skilled                                               110
+   Australia, People of,                                           112
+Described
+   -- Young                                                        111
+   Climate Exhausting                                              110
+   _Ornithorhynchus paradoxus_                                     112
+(_illus_)
+   Drought, A Ten Months'                                          113
+   Education Amply Provided for                                    111
+   Emigrate, Who should                                            110
+   Free Trade                                                      101
+   Labour Market, State of                                         101
+   -- Unskilled, A Fine Field for                                  111
+   Mining Machinery, Perfection                                    107
+of
+   Platypus, The Duck-billed                                       112
+(_illus_)
+   Population                                                      120
+   -- Surplus, Great Field for                                     110
+   Postal Arrangements                                             111
+   Protection                                                      101
+   Railways                                                        111
+   Rent of Houses Enormously Dear                                  110
+   Schools, First-rate                                             111
+   Telegraphs                                                      111
+   Wages Higher, but Most Things                                   110
+Dearer, than in England
+Baby Hippopotamus at Play                                           21
+(_illus_)
+Ballarat                                                            48
+   Botanical Gardens                                                49
+   Gold Mine                                                        48
+   -- (_illus_)                                                     49
+   -- Smallness of                                                  49
+   Gold Raised                                                      49
+   Lake Wendouree                                                   49
+Bananas                                                            127
+Bay of Biscay                                                        5
+Betting on Board Ship                                               26
+Boat in a Squall off Plymouth                                        2
+Brandy or Whisky?                                                  131
+Brummagem Shams, where                                              13
+manufactured
+Burial at Sea                                                      131
+Burying the Dead Horse (_illus_)                                    21
+Campbell Town                                                       74
+   Our Waiter at (_illus_)                                          79
+Canada                                                             162
+   American Customs Officer's                                      164
+Equipment
+   Clifton House, Niagara                                          162
+   Desecration, Ruthless                                           163
+   Green Fields like those at                                      162
+Home
+   Great Western Railway                                           162
+   London                                                          162
+   Niagara, Impressions of                                         164
+   Paris                                                           162
+   Photographers                                                   163
+   Salary, Must Raise, I Guess                                     164
+   Suspension Bridge at Niagara,                                   164
+Crossing
+Centipedes, A Plague of                                            127
+Chair, Taking the                                                  129
+Coral Reefs                                                   116, 118
+Day Dropped                                                        119
+Day Gained                                                         119
+Duel, Rumours of                                                   121
+Educated in Four Colleges                                          130
+Egypt                                                          181-268
+   Abaid                                                           197
+   Abbaseyeh Palace                                                216
+   Abbas Pasha                                                     216
+   Abraham or Isaac, Old Fellow                                    191
+like
+   Aden, a Dreadful Place                                          239
+   -- Importance of                                                239
+   Adenese Women (_illus_)                                         240
+   Agricultural Operations                                         223
+   Agriculture a la Adam                                           188
+   Alexandria                                                      260
+   -- in Ruins                                                     264
+   -- not Bombarded                                                265
+   -- the Forts after Bombardment                                  262
+   Anglo-Indians                                                   266
+   Apis Mausoleum, The                                             203
+   Arab, A Discerning                                              232
+   -- An, Hanged                                                   228
+   -- School in Syria                                              211
+   Arabi, Appointed Under                                          256
+Secretary of War
+   -- at Colombo                                                   238
+   -- Bey                                                          255
+   -- Causes Numerous Arrests                                      257
+   -- Erects New Earth-works                                       258
+   -- How he Recruited his Army                                    258
+   -- Made Pasha                                                   257
+   -- Military Adventurer                                          258
+   -- Moved in a singular way                                      239
+   -- Principal Figure in                                          256
+Outbreaks
+   -- Visit to                                                     238
+   Arabi's Personal Appearance                                     239
+   Arabs, Bedouin                                                  183
+   -- How Kept in Order                                            181
+   -- Picturesque Party of                                         181
+   Au Revoir (_illus_)                                             225
+   Backsheesh                            185, 190, 195, 197, 198, 207,
+                                          210, 218, 224, 228, 241, 243
+   -- not demanded                                                 210
+   Balah, Lake of                                             245, 248
+   Bazaars, In the                                                 190
+   Bedrashen                                                       201
+   Beggars                                                         195
+   Bellows, not made in                                            191
+Birmingham
+   Bery cheap, sah! (_illus_)                                      191
+   Bethshemish (Heliopolis)                                        220
+   Biblical Allusions, How to                                      185
+Understand
+   Biograph, A Graphic                                             206
+   Bitter Lakes, The, Identified                                   246
+with Marah
+   -- Saltness of                                                  247
+   Black Guard, A                                                  242
+   Blacking a Boy's Bare Feet                                      186
+   Blue Jackets, Look at our                                       237
+_de-ah_
+   Blue Ribbon Army                                                233
+   Boat or Dahabieh                                                215
+   Boats, How Propelled                                            181
+   Bohemiennes                                                     228
+   Bonaparte, Attempts to Reopen                                   245
+Suez Canal
+   Bond-holders, Foreign                                           254
+   Bridal Party, A                                                 192
+   Brindisi                                                        267
+   British Canal Shares                                            253
+Profitable
+   -- Mission, Schools at                                          211
+   Bulak, A Street in (_illus_)                                    219
+   -- Suburb of Cairo                                              220
+   Bull, The Sacred                                                203
+   Burying-ground                                                  202
+   Cairo                                                 187, 188, 242
+   -- Sanitary Condition of,                                       244
+Shocking
+   -- Trades of                                                    188
+   -- Visit to, by Train                                           184
+   Camelcade, A (_illus_)                                          208
+   Camelcades                                                      207
+   Camels, Strings of                                              207
+   Carriages, Ladies'                                              212
+   Casinos                                                         228
+   Cemetery, An Ancient                                            202
+   Cetewayo, _alias_ The Carrib                               229, 234
+   -- Disguised as a Gentleman                                235, 236
+(_illus_)
+   Cheops, Great Pyramid of                                        197
+   Children, Naked                                                 208
+   Christian, I am a                                               218
+   Citadel, The                                                    194
+   City, A great                                                   202
+   Civ-il, One must be                                             236
+   Colombo                                                         238
+   Colonels, The, Make further                                     256
+Demands
+   Concert, A Pleasant, Looked                                     228
+Forward to
+   Cook and Son                                                    241
+   -- Name of, a Talisman                                          241
+   Coptic Guide offered a                                          190
+Commission
+   Coral Necklaces                                                 227
+   Cotter, Lieutenant                                              229
+   Court Martial, Irregular                                        257
+   Crocodile                                                       206
+   -- A dead                                                       216
+   -- Lake                                                         248
+   Crowd, A Motley                                                 181
+   Custom-house Examination                                        182
+   -- occupied by English                                     227, 229
+Artillerymen
+   Dahabieh or Nile boat                                           215
+   Dancers and Howlers                                             210
+   Dervishes, The, Dancing and                                     209
+Howling
+   -- The, Supported by                                            210
+Government Endowment
+   Desert, Prayers in the                                          209
+(_illus_)
+   Devils, Familiar                                                195
+   Donkey Boy, An Egyptian                                         184
+(_illus_)
+   -- My Donkey, good sah                                          184
+   Donkey Ride                                                     183
+   -- across the Nile                                              215
+   Donkeys for Nine                                                183
+   -- Homeward Bound                                               216
+   -- Names of                                                     183
+   -- Universal Use of                                             214
+   Dragoman (_illus_)                                              182
+   Drive to Heliopolis                                             216
+   Dual Control, The                                               254
+   Dutch Hotel occupied by Royal                                   228
+Marines
+   Egg-hatching Establishment                                      194
+   Eggs, she only steals the Eggs                                  212
+now
+   Egypt, British Occupation of,                                   244
+how Beneficial
+   -- by whom Disliked                                             244
+   Egyptian Character, Saddest                                     220
+Side of
+   -- People, Requirements of                                      255
+   Electric Light, The,                                            231
+   El Guisr, The Cutting of                                        248
+   Embroidery                                                      190
+   End, The (_illus_)                                              268
+   Englishman perfidious                                           240
+   English Representation on                                       252
+Board of Management of Suez Canal
+not large enough
+   Ethiopia shall yet Stretch                                      185
+Forth her Hand
+   European Buildings, Few                                         183
+   Exclusiveness, British                                          242
+   Excursion, A delightful                                         208
+   Ezbekiyeh Public Gardens                                        244
+   Face, A Familiar (_illus_)                                      261
+   Fair-day, A                                                     222
+   Fakir, A Holy (_illus_)                                    220, 222
+   Fehmi Pasha                                                     239
+   Fellaheen, The, ground down                                     259
+   Fort Aida                                                       263
+   -- Meks                                                    263, 265
+   -- Gemileh                                                      229
+   French, A Nation of Retailers                                   252
+   -- Fleet, The, Withdraws                                        258
+   -- The, outwitted                                               240
+   Fresh-water Canal completed                                     246
+   Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath                                  209
+   Gamblers on Board Ship                                          235
+   Gentlemen of the Long Robe                                      227
+   Gizeh, Pyramids of                                              195
+   -- Station                                                      201
+   Goshen, Land of                                                 244
+   -- Land of, preferred                                           244
+   Governor, A 'cute                                               239
+   Graphic Biograph, A                                             206
+   Graveyard at Tel-el-Kebir                                       243
+   Greek Money-changer                                             226
+   Gun Hill                                                        263
+   Hassan                                                182, 184, 241
+   -- Sultan                                                       192
+   -- Disguised as a Pilgrim                                       192
+   -- How he Recovered his Throne                                  194
+   Heliopolis (Bethshemish)                                        220
+   -- Drive to                                                     216
+   Hens, Laziness of                                               194
+   Hippopotamus                                                    206
+   Homes, Everlasting                                              207
+   Home to Vote                                                    225
+   Hostelries                                                      207
+   Hotel Abbat                                                     260
+   Howlers and Dancers                                             210
+   Insects something Maddening                                     230
+   Irrigation                                                      223
+   -- Method of, Described                                         188
+   Ismailia                                                   186, 248
+   Jewellers                                                       191
+   -- Weighing for                                                 191
+   Joseph and Mary's Tree                                          218
+   Kantara                                                         247
+   Khalifs, The Tombs of the                                       216
+(_illus_)
+   Khedive's Gardens, The                                          215
+   Khedive, The                                               208, 212
+   -- The, Compelled to submit                                     255
+   Koran, The, in Competition                                      189
+with Threepenny Pieces
+   Labour, Forced, a Painful                                       187
+Sight
+   Lady, The Last Unmarried                                        230
+   Lake Menzaleh                                              230, 247
+   -- Timsah                                                       248
+   Lakes, The Bitter                                          245, 249
+   Law of Liquidation                                              254
+   Lepere's Theory                                                 245
+   -- Proved Incorrect                                             245
+   Lesseps, M., Detained at                                        245
+Alexandria
+   -- Matures his Theory                                           246
+   L'etat, c'est moi                                               259
+   Leviathan, Job's Reference to                                   207
+   Lucullus                                                        259
+   Lily, Painting the                                              186
+   Luggage, A Lady's                                               184
+   -- How Treated                                                  181
+   Mameluke Dynasty, The Last of                                   218
+   Mamelukes, Massacre of                                          194
+   Manufacturing Quarter                                           191
+   Mariette exhumes the Serapeum                                   203
+   Marines                                                         229
+   -- as Police                                                    230
+   Mausoleum, The Apis                                             203
+   Mecca Pilgrims, Rendezvous of                                   216
+   Mediterranean, The                                              267
+   -- Waters of, Flow into Bitter                             246, 248
+Lakes
+   Member, Once a, always a                                        234
+Member
+   Memphis                                                         202
+   -- Ancient, Site of                                             201
+   -- Little more than a Name                                      202
+   Menzaleh, Lake of                                               245
+   Military Riot                                                   255
+   Mitrahineh (site of Ancient                                     201
+Memphis)
+   Mohammed Ali, Mosque of                                         194
+   Money-Changers' Liberality                                      227
+   Monument, Most Ancient in the                                   202
+World
+   Mosque of Sultan Hassan, Visit                                  194
+to
+   -- The, of Sultan Hassan                                        193
+(_illus_)
+   Mother, Son thrashes her only                                   212
+once a month
+   Mud, Great Difficulty in                                        230
+Making Canal
+   Museum, The National, for                                       222
+Egyptian Antiquities
+   Mutinous Conduct                                                256
+   Naval Force sent by France and                                  257
+England
+   -- Arrival at Alexandria                                        257
+   Nap on Deck                                                     234
+   Necropolis, Ancient                                             202
+   Nile-boat, A                                                    216
+   Nile, The                                                       187
+   -- Valley of                                                    188
+   -- View on the (_illus_)                                        198
+   Nobleman, The Languishing                                       184
+   Noph (Memphis)                                                  202
+   Nubians Reported to be                                          229
+Excellent Soldiers
+   Obelisk, The Oldest in Egypt                                    218
+   Octroi, or Town Tax                                             216
+   On (Heliopolis)                                                 220
+   Orgies, Pious                                                   210
+   Orient, The Steamship                                           186
+(_illus_)
+   -- a Magnificent Steamship                                      181
+   Orphans, Venerable                                              224
+   Palmerston, Lord, thwarts                                       246
+Lesseps
+   Palms, Oranges, and Lemons                                      218
+   Patriarchal Group, A                                            197
+   Pebbles as Mementoes of                                         243
+Tel-el-Kebir
+   Peep, A (_illus_)                                               190
+   Penny, New, Refused                                             185
+   People, Vast Numbers with                                       185
+Nothing to do
+   Perim, Island of, how acquired                                  239
+   Pious Orgies                                                    210
+   Police, The, Armed with Long                                    216
+Spikes
+   Port Said                                                  230, 247
+   -- a Dreadful Place to Live in                                  230
+   -- Harbour                                                      231
+   -- Lighthouse                                                   231
+   -- Railway wanted to                                            232
+   Power vested in Military Party                                  257
+   Prayers in the Desert                                           209
+(_illus_)
+   Predictions, Ill-founded                                        249
+   President, The, of Red Ribbon                                   235
+Army
+   Pyramid, Ascending the Great                                    196
+(_illus_)
+   -- The great Step                                               202
+   -- The Oldest                                                   202
+   Pyramids, Road to                                               187
+   -- The                                                          216
+   -- The, First View of                                           187
+   Quarantine                                                      268
+   Ramleh                                                          263
+   Ramses II, Statue of                                            202
+   Ras-el-Tin                                                      261
+   Red Tape                                                        250
+   -- Ribbon Army                                                  233
+   Rendezvous of Mecca Pilgrims                                    216
+   Revoir, Au (_illus_)                                            225
+   Riot and Massacre of Europeans                                  257
+   Rotten Row of Cairo, The                                        212
+   Runners or Sais, The (_illus_)                             212, 212
+   Sabbath, the Mohammedan                                         209
+   Safes, obviously of English                                     191
+Manufacture
+   Sais, The                                                       212
+   Sacred Bull, Burying-place of                                   203
+   Sakkara, To                                                     201
+   Sand, A good Preservative                                       205
+   Sarcophagus, A huge                                             203
+   School, An Arab, in Syria                                       211
+   -- Interrupted                                                  189
+   Schoolmaster's, A,                                              211
+Disappointment
+   Schoolmaster, The, Abroad                                       189
+(_illus_)
+   -- The, asks for Backsheesh                                     190
+   Schools, Miss Whateley's                                        211
+   Sculpture, Life-like                                            222
+   Selim, Sultan                                                   218
+   Serapeum, The (_illus_)                                    203, 204
+   Seymour, Admiral, Opens Fire                                    258
+on Forts
+   Shalouf                                                         248
+   Shave, A, and a Wash (_illus_)                             199, 199
+   Ship of the Desert, A Wrecked                                   223
+   Shoeblacks                                                      186
+   Shops Tiny                                                      182
+   Shubra Avenue, In (_illus_)                                     214
+   -- The                                                          212
+   Simon Stylites                                                  220
+   Soldier, British, in Egypt                                      242
+   Soldiers, English, quite at                                     244
+home
+   -- glad to have Newspapers                                      230
+   Sphinx, The                                                     216
+   -- The (_illus_)                                                199
+   Spider, The                                           233, 234, 235
+   Spider's Web, The                                               234
+   Statue, A, Four Thousand Years                                  222
+old
+   Stick, The Heaven-sent                                          198
+   Story-teller, A                                                 222
+   Storytellers, Professional, at                                  188
+Cairo
+   Strabo, on the Serapeum                                         203
+   Street in Bulak (_illus_)                                       219
+   Streets of Suez Narrow                                          182
+   Suez                                                       241, 248
+   -- Arrive off                                                   181
+   Suez Canal, A new Canal wanted                                  252
+   -- British Traffic through                                      247
+   -- Cost of Constructing                                         247
+   -- Does not silt up                                             249
+   -- Embankments of                                               247
+   -- Erroneous Impressions                                        249
+   -- Festivities on Opening                                       247
+   -- First Undertaken by Pharaoh                                  244
+Necho
+   -- French Officials inferior                                    250
+in capacity
+   -- French short-sighted in                                      252
+Business Matters
+   -- In the (_illus_)                                             226
+   -- Lesseps' Monopoly                                            252
+   -- Lesseps, M. de                                               250
+   -- Mercantile Importance of                                     247
+   -- Necessity of increased                                       250
+accommodation
+   -- Operations begun                                             246
+   -- Palmerston, Lord, Obstinacy                                  250
+of
+   -- Restrictions Absurd                                          251
+   -- Ships not allowed to move                                    251
+after Sun-down
+   -- Sinuosities of                                               249
+   -- Steamers under perfect                                       250
+control
+   -- Suggestion, A                                                253
+   -- How to deal with Profit                                      253
+   -- The                                                          244
+   Suez Hotel                                                 182, 242
+   -- Streets of, Narrow                                           182
+   Sultan, Selim                                                   218
+   Tel-el-Kebir                                               242, 243
+   Temple, Underground                                             201
+   Tih, The Tomb of                                                205
+   Timsah, Lake, Lord Wolseley's                                   248
+base of operations
+   Tomb of Tih (_illus_)                                      205, 206
+   Tombs of the Khalifs (_illus_)                                  216
+   Torture, A Novel Instrument of                                  220
+   Town Tax, The, or the Octroi                                    216
+   Treasures, Buried                                               201
+   Tree, The Virgin's                                              218
+   Umbrellas, A New Use for                                        181
+   Villages, Dreadful Mud                                          207
+   Virgin's Tree, The                                              218
+   Wash, A, and a Shave (_illus_)                             199, 201
+   Wash Basin, An Impromptu                                        229
+   Washing Hands, A Primitive                                      199
+Mode of
+   Water-carriers (_illus_)                                        215
+   Weigher for the Trade                                           192
+   Whateley's, Miss, Schools                                       211
+   What lack ye?                                                   226
+   Wild Fowl Shooting, Good                                        230
+   Words which Broke no Bones                                      182
+   Zagazig                                                         187
+Equator, Heat at                                                    24
+Faces too Dark to be Seen                                          122
+Falmouth                                                            63
+   Beach and Sands                                                  71
+   Burial-place (_illus_)                                           70
+   Cockney Sportsman                                                71
+   Der Dichter Spricht                                              65
+   Epping Forest                                                    67
+   Hotel (_illus_)                                                  69
+   Land of Snakes                                                   64
+   Magpies                                                          63
+   River Esk                                                        64
+   Stoney Creek                                                     64
+Fernshaw                                                            53
+   Hard Fare                                                        53
+   Pioneering                                                       53
+Fiji Children ask for More                                         117
+   -- Islands                                                      116
+   -- Native of (_illus_)                                          117
+Fingal                                                              67
+Fire Brigade Practice                                              119
+Flying Fish                                                         27
+Free Trade                                                          99
+Gambling on Board Ship                                              26
+Golden Gate, The                                                   131
+Gum Trees, A Forest of                                              51
+-- (_illus_)                                                    52, 53
+Habits of Islanders acquired                                       128
+Healesville                                                         51
+   A Soafler                                                        51
+   Hotel Accommodation                                          51, 56
+   Remedy, a Sovereign                                              58
+Hobart Town                                                         77
+   Fern Tree Valley                                                 78
+   Harvest in February                                              78
+   Jericho to Jerusalem, via                                        78
+Bagdad
+   New Norfolk                                                      78
+Homeward Bound                                                     127
+Honolulu, Arrival at                                               122
+   Baby Sold for a Dollar                                          126
+   Breakfast ordered Overnight                                     122
+   Brownie, Quite a                                                125
+   Chairs or Seats usually absent                                  126
+   Children described                                              124
+   Country very Poor                                               125
+   Dragon-flies, numerous                                          124
+   Dressmaking not a difficult                                     124
+Art
+   Faces too Dark to be Seen                                       122
+   Fire-flies                                                      122
+   Flowers of the most brilliant                                   124
+colours
+   Grass green and beautiful                                       124
+Hawaiian Islands, King of,                                         123
+Landlord of Hotel
+   Healthiness of                                                  127
+   Heathen Chinee, his Tricks not                                  123
+in Vain
+   Hotel                                                           122
+   Houses made chiefly of Rushes                                   126
+   Islanders _en fete_                                             121
+   Letters, Glad to be Rid of                                      125
+   Library                                                         125
+   Museum                                                          125
+   Natives Dressed in Splendid                                     124
+Colours
+   Parliament House                                                125
+   Passenger Overboard                                             121
+   Perfume of Tropical Flowers                                     122
+   Pilots Decline to go out for                                    121
+Vessels
+   Race fast dying out                                             125
+   Ruth, the King's Sister                                         126
+(_illus_)
+   Servants gone Home                                              122
+   Squatting on Ground Prevailing                                  126
+Custom
+   Supper not to be had                                            122
+   Temperature of                                                  127
+   Vegetation of                                                   124
+   Village, Native                                                 126
+   Villas Pretty and Numerous                                      126
+   Waiters Celestial                                               123
+   Water, Thoughts when Under                                      121
+   Women's Clothing, Scanty                                        124
+   Women Stately Looking                                           124
+Honolulu, Hotel at                                                 122
+Horse, Burying the Dead (_illus_)                                   21
+Hotel Experiences                                                   67
+I guess the seat is dry now                                        129
+Irish Bulls, where manufactured                                     13
+Islanders _en fete_                                                121
+Jefferson Brick, Junior                                            129
+Jerra Jerra                                                         96
+Kandavu                                                            115
+Knife Trick, The                                                   130
+Life on Board Ship (see                                           3-39
+Ship--Life on Board)
+Lyre Bird, The (_illus_)                                            59
+Launceston                                                          61
+   Bees in Mourning                                                 62
+   Cicadas                                                          61
+   Cora Linn                                                        63
+   Pomona's Temple                                                  62
+   Snakes                                                           61
+   Tamar River                                                      61
+   Tasmanian Hospitality                                            62
+   Tonsorial Palace                                                 62
+   Tree Locusts                                                     61
+Marysville                                                          56
+   Stephenson Falls                                                 56
+Meal, a good square one preferred                                  121
+on Shore
+Melbourne (_see also_ Victoria)                                     39
+   Berry Ministry, the                                              43
+   Black Death at                                                   40
+   Black Spur Mountains                                             50
+   -- (_illus_)                                                     56
+   Building Trade at, Depressed,                                   102
+Results
+   Bush, The                                                        50
+   Description of                                                   41
+   Education                                                        42
+   Exhibition at, why decided on                                   102
+   Happy Land                                                       46
+   Hobson's Bay                                                 39, 80
+   Hot Winds                                                        47
+   Natural History Museum                                           42
+   Old Debts, a New Way to Pay                                      45
+   Overland from Sydney                                        94, 100
+   Parliamentary Procedure                                          43
+   Parliament, Houses of                                            45
+   -- Payment of Members of                                         44
+   Protection                                                      102
+   Revisited                                                        79
+   Roads                                                            50
+   Sanitary Arrangements,                                           47
+Defective
+   Stage Coaches                                                    50
+   Streets wide and long                                           103
+   Tall and Fat a street sweeper                                    48
+   Tramways opposed by Cabmen                                      103
+   Vineyards                                                        50
+   Yarra Yarra River                                                60
+Mister                                                             130
+Moighty Dry                                                        130
+Native Dish called Poi                                             128
+New South Wales (see also Sydney)                                  107
+   Acres Many, Men Few                                             107
+   Agricultural Machinery,                                         108
+Imported
+   Artisans Attracted from                                         109
+Victoria
+   Customs Revenue, Increase of                                    110
+   Employment Abundant                                             107
+   Exports, Increase of                                            110
+   Free Trade Colony                                               107
+   Hudson Bros, Limited                                            108
+   Immigration Larger than in                                      109
+Victoria
+   Imports, Increase of                                            110
+   Imports in 1782 and 1881                                        109
+   Industry, A Native, Created                                     108
+   Labour, Increasing Demand for                                   109
+   Machinery, Agricultural and                                     108
+Mining, Imports of
+   -- Mining, Demand for                                           107
+   Manufacturing Concern, Largest                                  108
+in Colony
+   Men Few, Acres Many                                             107
+   Mining Machinery, Imports of                                    108
+   -- Machinery, Perfection of                                     107
+   Policy Opposite to that of                                      107
+Victoria
+   Population Attracted                                            109
+   -- Constantly Increasing                                        107
+   -- Increase of, in Ten Years                                    110
+   -- Room for More                                                109
+   Prosperity, Evidences of                                        107
+   Railway System, Vast and                                        107
+Expanding
+   Sawmills, Steam, at Sydney                                      108
+   Shipping                                                        107
+   -- Development of                                               109
+   -- During last Thirty Years                                     109
+   -- Repairing Yards Removed                                      109
+from Victoria
+   Timber, Native Better than                                      108
+Imported
+   Trade, Import and Export                                        107
+   Victoria Contrasted with                                        107
+Oatlands                                                            78
+   The Gaol                                                         79
+Pacific Ocean belies its Name                                      115
+Parson, The, Quite at Sea                                           16
+   A Man of Peace now                                               30
+   Colonists' complain of                                           32
+   Congregation, Secures a                                          16
+   Drain Pipes, how they are made                                   30
+   Mixes his Degrees                                                31
+   Sermon on Geology                                                16
+   Water Pumped from a Mine                                         16
+Twelve Miles Deep
+Passenger, Death of                                                130
+   -- falls Overboard                                              121
+Personal Difficulties                                              120
+   -- Favour, As a                                                 131
+Pilots Decline to go out for                                       121
+Vessels
+Protection                                                     39, 100
+Salt Water good for the "Spin-ial                                    7
+Orgins"
+San Francisco                                                      131
+   Baggage Master                                                  147
+   Business Activity                                               138
+   -- Men, Sharp                                                   140
+   Carriages, Hackney                                              144
+   Character, Bad Better than                                      139
+None
+   Chinaman, Am claimed as a                                       144
+   Chinese Close Shavers                                           141
+   Chinese Pigtails (_illus_)                                      142
+   -- Joss Houses Visited                                          143
+   -- Quarter Full of Interest                                     141
+   -- Numerous                                                     140
+   -- Quarter Explored at Night                                    143
+   -- Theatre Visited                                              143
+   -- Washer_men_                                                  137
+   -- Wedding                                                      143
+   Civilisation and Barbarism                                      137
+Face to Face
+   Climate Delightful                                              145
+   Correspondent, A Familiar                                       138
+   Darwin would have been                                          142
+Delighted
+   Dodge, A Favourite                                              139
+   Earning a Cent anyhow                                           132
+   English Fittings                                                137
+   Entrance to Harbour Sighted                                     131
+   Fire Brigades                                                   144
+   Flats and Sharps                                                139
+   Golden Gate, The                                                131
+   Governor, Qualifications for a                                  140
+State
+   Habit, The National                                             138
+   Hackney Carriages                                               144
+   Heat and Dust Terrible                                          147
+   I Guess you are Going to                                        140
+England
+   Jarrett, A. J. C.                                               138
+   John Chinaman                                                   141
+   Knife and Fork, only One at                                     138
+Meals
+   Lady Doctors Numerous                                           140
+   Luggage, Arrangements for,                                      147
+Excellent
+   Min-ne, Little                                                  141
+   Mister, Last of (_illus_)                                       146
+   My Wife is Dead                                                 138
+   Pacific Seal                                                    145
+   Palace Hotel                                               135, 137
+   Police, Messenger from Chief                                    139
+of
+   Sea-lions                                                       145
+   Seal Rocks (_illus_)                                            145
+   Starching, a Fine Art                                           137
+   Streets, Handsome                                               138
+   Tang-y, A Chinese City                                          144
+   Tang-ye, Proof of Celestial                                     144
+Origin
+   Temperature                                                     145
+   Tobacco Chewing and its                                         138
+Consequences
+   Tramways                                                        144
+   Volunteers                                                      144
+   Yosemite Valley                                                 146
+San Francisco, Voyage to                                      113, 132
+Sharks                                                          18, 30
+   -- don't like Dark Skins                                        118
+Ship-Life on board                                                   3
+   Albatross                                                        27
+   Bay of Biscay, Nor'-wester in                                     6
+   Bazaar                                                           34
+   Betting                                                      26, 38
+   Blatant Beast, The, fires a                                      25
+Revolver
+   Burying the Dead Horse                                           21
+   Cabin'd, Cribb'd, Confin'd                                        3
+   Cape Otway                                                       38
+   Captain not so fond of                                           12
+Progress as the Passengers
+   Captains, why they are Tories                                    13
+   Cat Chase                                                        26
+   Collisions at Sea                                                29
+   Colonial Statesman beaten but                                    39
+not vanquished
+   Concerts and Recitations                                          9
+   Congregation, How to Secure a                                    16
+   Consumptive Patients sent too                                     5
+late
+   Cross-signalling                                                 35
+   Danite Band, The                                                 33
+   Death and Burial at Sea                                          15
+   Dolphins                                                         27
+   Dolphin, the "Classic"                                           28
+(_illus_)
+   Dramatic Performance                                             35
+   Exhibition, Fine Art                                             35
+   Fellow-passengers                                                 4
+   First Night on Board                                              3
+   Flying Fish                                                      27
+   Gale off Cape Leeuwin                                            38
+   Genial Captain (_illus_)                                         11
+advantageous
+   German Lady, old but lively                                      19
+   Hobson's Bay                                                     39
+   Illness of Passengers                                            14
+   Incident in Cornwall recalled                                    24
+   Ixion goes mad                                                   14
+   Letters Home                                                     29
+   Life Friendships formed                                           4
+   Love your Enemies                                                17
+   Melbourne, Arrive at                                             39
+   Music not always harmonious                                      10
+   Night-walkers a nuisance                                          9
+   Nor'-wester in the Bay of                                         6
+Biscay
+   Parson Mixes his Degrees                                         31
+   Pilot Fish                                                       28
+   Passengers paying their                                          30
+Footing
+   -- divided into Sets                                              3
+   Peal of Hand-bells                                               16
+   Portuguese Man-of-War                                            28
+   Private Convict System                                            4
+   Quoits a selfish Game                                             9
+   Rolling Forties                                                  38
+   Scarlet Lady                                                     20
+   Sea-sickness, Cure for                                            6
+   Sermon on Geology                                                16
+   Sharks                                                       18, 30
+   Ship in full Sail                                                29
+   Short and Stout                                                  25
+   Soup too Salt                                                    19
+   Sports (_illus_)                                                  8
+   Spurgeon's Evangelist                                            32
+   Squall near Madeira                                              12
+   Steward's Life a hard one                                         7
+   Tall and Fat                                                     25
+   Tristan d'Acunha                                                 38
+   Tropical Heat                                                 8, 24
+   Tropical Phosphorescence                                         33
+   Newspaper                                                        10
+   Water Pumped from Twelve Miles                                   16
+Deep
+   Wild Spirits carry on                                            25
+   Whale                                                            30
+Ship's Doctors                                                     120
+Snakes                                      61, 64, 68, 72, 73, 74, 97
+Spurgeon's Evangelist                                               32
+Steward, A Negro                                                   115
+St Mary's (_illus_)                                                 68
+Supper, Too late for                                               123
+Sunday at the Fiji Islands                                         116
+Sydney (_see also_ New South                                        80
+Wales)
+   Ants                                                             90
+   Bail-up                                                          89
+   Bathurst                                                         89
+   Blue Mountains                                                   84
+   Botanical Gardens                                                82
+   Bullock Team on Blue Mountains                                   94
+(_illus_)
+   Bush Hut (_illus_)                                               95
+   Bushrangers                                                      89
+   Cottage, Mount Victoria                                          86
+(_illus_)
+   Education Act, The, Amended                                      92
+   Excise Act                                                       92
+   Falls, The Weatherboard                                          87
+(_illus_)
+   Great Goat Sucker, The                                           90
+   Harbour (_illus_)                                                80
+   Hartley Vale, Descent to                                         88
+(_illus_)
+   Harvest on New Year's Day                                        95
+   Hotels, Primitive                                                84
+   Laughing Jackass, The                                            90
+(_illus_)
+   Lithgow                                                          88
+   Manufacturing Concern, Largest                                  107
+in Colony
+   Oysters                                                          83
+   -- on Trees                                                      84
+   Political Situation                                              92
+   Saw Mills, Steam                                                108
+   Sheep Runs                                                       95
+   Southerly Buster, A                                              83
+Sydney to Melbourne Overland                                   94, 100
+   Albury                                                           98
+   Ants                                                             96
+   Axles, Imported                                                 108
+   Bush, The                                                        96
+   Carriage Furniture, Imported                                    108
+   Drought of Ten Months'                                          113
+duration
+   Endurance of Post-horses                                         98
+   Euroa                                                           100
+   Free Trade at                                                   108
+   Germanton                                                        96
+   Hay, Price of                                                   113
+   Hudson Brothers (Limited)                                       108
+   Industry, A Native, Created                                     108
+   Jerra Jerra                                                      96
+   Kelly's Exploits at Euroa                                       100
+   Magpies, Large                                                   96
+   Railway Rolling Stock                                           108
+Manufacturers
+   Rain, Downpour of                                               114
+   River Murray                                                     99
+   Royal Mail                                                       96
+   Sheep, Loss of                                                  114
+   Shipping during last thirty                                     109
+years
+   Sighing for Old England                                          97
+   Snakes                                                           97
+   Springs, Imported                                               108
+   Timber, Native Better than                                      108
+Imported
+   Tommy, a youthful Driver                                         98
+   Town, An Up-country (_illus_)                                    98
+   Vineyards                                                        99
+   Wagga Wagga                                                  95, 96
+   Wheels, Imported                                                108
+   Wodonga                                                          99
+Sydney to San Francisco                                       113, 132
+Tasmania                                                            75
+   Farms large in size                                              75
+   Good Roads                                                       75
+   Hawkers                                                          76
+   Mount Wellington (_illus_)                                       76
+   River Derwent                                                    75
+   The Rabbit and the Thistle                                       75
+Teneriffe (_illus_)                                                  7
+Travelling by Rail and Ship                                          1
+compared
+Tree Ferns                                                      52, 56
+Tristan d'Acunha, Island of                                         36
+Tropical Heat                                                    8, 24
+   -- Phosphorescence                                               33
+Tropics, In the (_illus_)                                           40
+Turtles                                                             18
+United States                                                      169
+   Americans would Become our                                      176
+Competitors
+   Artisans (American) not Better                                  176
+Off than British
+   -- Wages and Holidays                                           174
+   Baggage Arrangements                                            171
+Convenient
+   -- Described                                                    171
+   Books Dear                                                      170
+   Cabmen Disgusted                                                171
+   Cadgers, In England such Men                                    176
+would be Called
+   Calicoes Consigned to England                                   173
+   Charges Simply Monstrous                                        170
+   Children without Shoes and                                      177
+Stockings
+   Climate more Trying than that                                   174
+of England
+   -- of America Exhausting                                        176
+   Competition Become Exceedingly                                  175
+Fierce
+   Considerably Sold                                               178
+   Corruption among Officials                                      169
+   Cotton Mill Operatives from                                     175
+Germany, etc.
+   Dear America                                                    170
+   Dinner, Charge for a Plain                                      170
+   Engine, The Largest, in the                                     172
+World
+   Exhibition, The Centennial,                                169, 171
+Philadelphia
+   Exports Limited by Protection                                   175
+   Factory Operatives' Wages                                       174
+Lower than in Lancashire
+   Fair Trade Agitation                                            174
+   Fortunes, Colossal, Built up                                    176
+under Protection
+   Freedom for Tongue and Foot                                     177
+   Free Trade and Wages                                            174
+   -- not an Unmixed Blessing                                      176
+   -- under, Wider Distribution                                    176
+of Material Comfort
+   Holidays Fewer than in England                                  174
+   Hours of Labour Longer than in                                  176
+England
+   -- Longer than in Lancashire                                    174
+   Improvements (so-called) in                                     172
+Manufactures
+   Labour, Honest, Avoided                                         176
+   Liquor Traffic Presents Many                                    177
+Difficulties
+   Living, Cost of, Higher than                                    174
+in England
+   Loafers Numerous                                                176
+   Negro Labour does not Flood                                     177
+the Markets
+   Newspaper Inferior and Dear                                     170
+   New York                                                        169
+   Officials, Corruption among                                     169
+   Over-production                                                 173
+   Philadelphia                                                    171
+   Protection, An Argument for                                     173
+   -- and Wages                                                    174
+   -- Doomed                                                       175
+   -- Wages Steadily Declining                                     176
+under
+   Railway Charges Moderate                                        171
+   Rich, but Honest                                                169
+   Slave Experiences                                               177
+   Something Hot                                                   178
+   Steamboat Charges Moderate                                      171
+   Sunday Traffic Perplexing                                       177
+   Teetotal Lecture, A Regular                                     178
+   Temperance Lecture, The First,                                  178
+they had Heard
+   Tools, Inferior                                                 172
+   Wages Higher, but Balanced by                                   176
+Extra Cost of Living
+   -- Higher, not a Full                                           176
+Equivalent
+   -- Lower than in 1860                                           174
+   -- Steadily Declining under                                     176
+Protection
+   -- with Free Trade and                                          174
+Protection
+Victoria (_see also_ Melbourne)                                    101
+   Agricultural Industries not                                     105
+Protected
+   -- Heavily Taxed                                                105
+   Artisans Attracted to New                                       109
+South Wales
+   Books, Can Produce Her Own                                      104
+   Cabby Overrides the Tramway                                     103
+   Country Districts Sparsely                                      101
+Populated
+   Customs, Revenue, Stationary                                    110
+   Depression of Building Trade                                    102
+at Melbourne
+   Dog Subsisting on His Own Tail                                  102
+   Duty on Imports Demanded                                        103
+   Exhibition at Melbourne why                                     102
+Decided on
+   Exports, Increase of                                            110
+   Fiscal Policy, Vicious                                          105
+   Food, Taxation of, not                                          105
+Permitted
+   Free Trade--the _Argus_                                         104
+   -- for Raw Materials                                            103
+   Government, Quite Right to                                      106
+Cheat the
+   Immigration, Grants in Aid of                                   105
+   Imported Manufactures Heavily                                   101
+Taxed
+   Imports, Increase of                                            110
+   Laws, Evasion of, by                                            106
+Protectionists
+   Locomotives Costly                                              104
+   -- Required                                                     104
+   Manufacturer's Profit not                                       104
+quite enough
+   Manufacturers Require Larger                                    105
+Field
+   Minerals, Home Demand for,                                      105
+Small
+   -- Mainly Exported                                              105
+   Mining Industries not                                           105
+Protected
+   -- Machinery Heavily Taxed                                      105
+   Native Industry, In Interests                                   104
+of
+   Natural Resources Neglected                                     102
+   New South Wales, Contrasted                                     107
+with
+   Population Concentrated in                                      101
+Large Towns
+   -- Increase of, in Ten Years                                    110
+   -- (Manufacturing) Growing                                      102
+Faster than its Customers
+   -- not Retained                                                 101
+   -- Larger, a Great Want                                         105
+   -- Room for Larger                                              105
+   Prices sufficiently High                                        104
+   Printed Books should be more                                    104
+Heavily Taxed
+   Printing Materials, Suggestion                                  104
+to Tax
+   Protected Industries for a                                      103
+Limited Time
+   -- Manufacturers not Happy                                      106
+   Protection Demanded by                                          102
+Manufacturers
+   -- Effect on Money                                              106
+   -- in its most Pronounced Form                                  101
+   Protectionist Newspapers                                        103
+   Railway Stores                                                  105
+   Shipping--Repairing Yards                                       109
+Removed to New South Wales
+   Tramways Opposed by Cabmen                                      103
+   Tariff Revision Committee                                       103
+   Working Classes Jealous of                                      105
+Competition
+   Work, Legislature Expected to                                   102
+Supply
+   Workpeople very Independent                                     107
+Voyage, Author's First, to                                           5
+Australia
+Waterspout                                                         119
+Water, Thoughts when Under                                         121
+White Squall, The                                                   35
+Yankee Journalist described                                        129
+Yankee's Inquiry                                                   128
+
+NOTES.
+
+
+{226}  In a former chapter I gave an account of a voyage to Australia by
+way of the Cape of Good Hope.  On a subsequent visit to the Colonies I
+went by the Canal route, returning through Egypt overland.
+
+{259a}  It is understood that the Khedive's English financial adviser is
+about to take in hand the case of the Fellaheen versus the Usurers.  It
+may aid him to know how a similar state of things in a neighbouring
+country was dealt with about 2000 years ago.
+
+    "Lucullus, Roman general, in his wars against Mithridates, having
+    occupied many cities in Asia which had long been a prey to
+    tax-farmers and usurers, undertook to relieve the people from the
+    extreme misery to which they had been reduced, and set about
+    redeeming the properties given as security to the rapacious
+    money-lenders.  He first greatly reduced the rate of interest;
+    secondly, where the interest exceeded the principal he struck it off.
+    He then ordered that the creditor should receive the fourth part of
+    the debtor's income, but if in making his claim any creditor had
+    added the interest to the principal, it was utterly disallowed.  By
+    these means, in the, space of four years, all debts were paid, and
+    the lands returned to the rightful owners."--_Plutarch's Lives_.
+
+{259b}  Report of Mr. Villiers Stuart, M.P., to Lord Dufferin on "The
+Social and Economical Condition of the People."
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN
+AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 41639.txt or 41639.zip *******
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