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diff --git a/41267-0.txt b/41267-0.txt index 649847c..0cd6b55 100644 --- a/41267-0.txt +++ b/41267-0.txt @@ -1,25 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The History of Cuba, vol. 5, by Willis Fletcher Johnson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The History of Cuba, vol. 5 - -Author: Willis Fletcher Johnson - -Release Date: November 2, 2012 [EBook #41267] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41267 *** Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net @@ -14395,364 +14374,4 @@ the installment plant=> the installment plan {pg 395} End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The History of Cuba, vol. 5, by Willis Fletcher Johnson -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - -***** This file should be named 41267-0.txt or 41267-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/6/41267/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The History of Cuba, vol. 5 - -Author: Willis Fletcher Johnson - -Release Date: November 2, 2012 [EBook #41267] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -The etext replicates the original book. Some obvious typographical -errors have been corrected; a list follows this etext. The author’s -incorrect and varied spellings of Spanish has not been corrected, -modernized or normalized. - -[Illustration: FRANCISCO DE FRIAS - -One of the foremost agricultural and economic scientists of his time, -Francisco de Frias y Jacott, Count of Pozos Dulces, was born in Havana -on September 24, 1809, and died in Paris, France, on October 24, 1877. -He studied in the United States and Europe, specializing in physics and -chemistry, and then sought to devote his genius to the economic welfare -of Cuba. He wrote notable works on Cattle Breeding, on Chemical -Research, and on Labor and Population. His patriotic spirit provoked -Captain-General Canedo to banish him for a time, but on his return as -editor of _El Siglo_ he conducted so powerful a campaign for social, -economic, political and administrative reforms that the Spanish -government was constrained to heed him and to plan new legislation for -Cuba. For this purpose it formed a Junta of Information, of which he was -a member representing Santa Clara. Upon the failure of that body he -wrote a memorable protest against the policy which had compelled that -result, and a year later removed to Paris.] - - - - -THE -HISTORY OF CUBA - -BY - -WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON - -A.M., L.H.D. - -Author of “A Century of Expansion,” “Four Centuries of -the Panama Canal,” “America’s Foreign Relations” - -Honorary Professor of the History of American Foreign -Relations in New York University - -_WITH ILLUSTRATIONS_ - -VOLUME FIVE - -[Illustration] - -NEW YORK - -B. F. BUCK & COMPANY, INC. - -156 FIFTH AVENUE - -1920 - -Copyright, 1920, -BY CENTURY HISTORY CO. - -_All rights reserved_ - -ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL -LONDON, ENGLAND. - -PRINTED IN U. S. A. - - -REPUBLICA DE CUBA - -SECRETARIA DE AGRICULTURA, COMERCIO Y TRABAJO - - -Habana, Cuba, -July 11, 1919. - -TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: - -The information in this volume pertaining to Cuba and her natural -resources, climate, soil, mines, forests, fisheries, agricultural -products, lands, rivers, harbors, mountains, mineral zones, quarries, -foreign and domestic commerce, business opportunities, etc., has been -compiled under the auspices of the Department of Agriculture, Commerce -and Labor, and has been verified by the Bureau of Information. - -It is intended to acquaint the world with the truth and actual facts in -regard to Cuba, and for the guidance of those who may be interested. - -Respectfully, - -[Illustration: signature] - -SECRETARY OF AGRICULTURE - -COMMERCE & LABOR. - - - - -PREFACE - - -Nature designed Cuba for greatness. That salient fact is written large -and clear upon every page of the island’s history. He must lack vision -who can not discern it even in the annals of political, military and -social development of the Cuban nation. Although one of the earliest -lands in the Western Hemisphere to be discovered and colonized, it was -actually the last of all to be erected into political independence and -thus to enter into an opportunity for improving fully the incomparable -opulence of its natural endowment. No land ever shows of what it is -capable until it is permitted to do so for its own sake and in its own -name. - -During the long and tedious centuries of Spanish domination, therefore, -the resources of Cuba remained largely latent. That is to be said in -full view of the notorious fact that the island was openly declared to -be “the milch cow of Spain.” In those two facts appears perhaps the most -impressive of all possible testimonies to the surpassing richness of the -island. If while it was a mere colony, only partially developed and -indeed with its resources only in part explored and imperfectly -understood, and with the supreme incentive to enterprise denied it--if -in these unfavorable circumstances, we say, it could be a source of so -great revenue to Spain and in spite of thus being plundered and drained -could still accumulate so considerable a competence for its own people, -what must its material opulence prove to be under its own free rule, -with every advantage and every encouragement for its full development -according to the knowledge of Twentieth Century science? - -We need not be fanciful or visionary if we believe that some important -purpose was subserved in such withholding of Cuba from complete -development until so late a date. Her neighbors went on ahead, -developing their resources, and passing through all the political and -social vicissitudes of which colonial and national experience is -capable, inevitably with a great proportion of sheer loss through -ill-directed experimentation. Cuba on the contrary remained held in -abeyance until in the fulness of time she could profit from the -experience and example of others and thus gain her development at a -minimum of effort and expense and with a maximum of net profit. - -The beneficent design of nature, to which we have alluded, is to be -seen, moreover, in the inherent conditions of insular existence. No -other great island of the world is so fortunate in its geographical -placing, either strategically or climatically, nor is any other -comparable with it in topography and material arrangement and -composition. It lies midway between the two great continents of the -Western Hemisphere, within easy reach of both across landlocked seas, -where it receives the commerce of both and serves as a mart of exchange -between them. Similarly it lies between the Temperate Zone and the -Torrid Zone, so as to receive at its very doors the products of each and -of both, the products, that is to say, of all the world. Nor is it less -significant that it lies directly upon the line of commerce and travel -not only between North and South but equally between East and West, on -the line of passage between the Atlantic and the Pacific and between the -lands which border the one and those which occupy the shores of the -other. Such strategic position--the strategy of commerce--is unique and -incommensurable in value. - -Equally beneficent is the climatic situation of Cuba. Mathematically -lying just within the tropical zone, it in fact enjoys a temperance of -climate surpassing that of the temperate zone itself. It has all the -geniality of the regions which lie to the south of it, so that it can -produce all the fruits of the sultry tropics in profusion throughout a -year-round season of growth; yet it escapes the oppressive and -enervating heat which makes life in those lands burdensome to the -visitor and indolent to the native. It has the comfort and the tonic -properties of northern climes, yet without the trying and sometimes -disastrous fluctuations and extremes which too often there prevail. As a -result, Cuba can produce, if not always in fullest perfection yet with a -gratifying degree of success, practically all the vegetable life of the -world, from that which thrives close to the Arctic Circle to that which -luxuriates upon the Equator. - -In coastal contour, and thus in profusion of fine harbors, Cuba enjoys -preeminence among the countries of the world. In varied contour of -mountain, valley and plain, in endowment with springs and rivers, she is -conspicuously fortunate. The often quoted tribute which her first -discoverer paid spontaneously to her magic beauty has been repeated and -confirmed uncounted times, with a deeper significance as it has been -found that the beauty of this island is not merely superficial but -intrinsic, and that Cuba is as hospitable to the interests and welfare -of the visitor and resident as she is fair to the passing eye. - -It is a grateful task to dwell in these pages upon the varied and -opulent resources of the island, in all the natural conditions of the -mineral, the vegetable and the animal kingdoms. We shall see that the -hopes and dreams of the early conquerors, of rich mines of gold, have -been far more than realized in other ways which they knew not of. The -mines of what they regarded as base metals, and of metals unknown to -them, are richer far than they ever hoped deposits of the “precious” -metal to be, while the products of forests and plantations are -immeasurably richer still. Today Cuba stands before the world a -Treasure Island of incomparable worth even in her present estate, and of -an assured potentiality of future opulence which dazzles the -imagination. - -We shall see, too, most grateful and inspiring of all, how at last the -people of Cuba have come into their own and are improving the vast -endowment with which nature has so bounteously provided them. It has -been only since they gained their independence that they could or would -do this; the result being that a score of years have seen more progress -than the twenty score preceding. Indeed we may say that the great bulk -of this progress has been achieved in the last six or seven years, the -earlier years of independence being unfortunately marred with untoward -circumstances of dissension and revolt which held in check the progress -which the island should have made. But with the final establishment of a -government capable of fulfilling all its appropriate functions, the -advance of Cuba has been and is to-day swift and unerring. - -The taking advantage of natural conditions and resources through -scientific applications, the organization and administration of such -governmental institutions as best conduce to the security, the -prosperity and the happiness of a self-governing people, are agreeable -themes to contemplate and are profitable to study. We shall see how -agriculture, mining, manufactures and commerce have been promoted in -both extent and character. We shall see how all parts of the island -realm have been made accessible, for business or for pleasure, with -railroads and a marvellous system of highways for motor vehicles. We -shall learn of the sanitation of what was once a pestilence infested -land until it has become one of the three or four most healthful in the -world. - -We shall see, too, the practical creation and universal development of a -scheme of free popular education which to-day gives to what was within -the memory of living men one of the most illiterate of countries such -school facilities as scarcely any other can surpass. If we were writing -in this volume of some long-established Commonwealth, with many -generations, perhaps centuries, of progress and culture behind it, we -should not be able to restrain our admiration of much that has been -accomplished. When we consider that we are writing of a land that -suffered nearly four centuries of repression and oppression, followed by -a dozen years of devastating strife, and less than twenty years ago -began to live the free life of a sovereign people, we are entranced with -amazement at the memory of what Cuba has been, with appreciation of what -she is, and with the assured promise of what she is to be. - -It was a fascinating task to trace the story of her existence in its -many phases, largely of vicissitude, from the days of Diego Velasquez to -those of Mario Menocal. But that after all was a record of what has -been, of what has largely passed away. More welcome is it to contemplate -what Cuba actually is, in present realization and achievement, and to -scan with sane and discriminating vision the prospect of what she may be -and what, we may well believe with confidence, she will be. It is to -reveal the actual Cuba of to-day, and to suggest the surely promised -Cuba of to-morrow, that these pages are written. So far as they may seem -technical and statistical, their very dryness contains a potency of -suggestion surpassing the dreams of romance. So far as they may seem -touched with imagination, speculation, enthusiasm, they are still based -upon the practical and indubitable foundation of ascertained facts. -Their aim is to present to the world an accurate, comprehensive and -sympathetic living picture of the Twentieth Century Republic of Cuba, -and as such they are submitted to the reader with a cheerful confidence, -if not always in the adequacy of its treatment, at least in the -unfailing interest and merit of the theme. - -January, 1920. - -WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON. - - - - -CONTENTS - - PAGE - -CHAPTER I. THE PEOPLE OF CUBA.....1 - -The People of Cuba--Hospitality Their Characteristic--Love of -Children--Founders of the Cuban Nation from the Southern Provinces of -Spain--An Admixture of French Blood--Immigration from Northern -Spain--English, Irish, Italian and German Immigrants--Colonists from the -United States. - -CHAPTER II. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF CUBA.....10 - -The Topography of Cuba--Five Distinct Zones--The Mountain -Ranges--Plateaus and Plains--The Highest Peak in Cuba--The Organ -Mountains--Beautiful Valleys and Fertile Plains--Action of the Water -Courses--Character of the Soil. - -CHAPTER III. THE CLIMATE OF CUBA.....19 - -The Climate of Cuba--Freedom from Extremes of Temperature--Influence of -the Trade Winds--No Ice and Little Frost--The Rainy Season and the Dry -Season--Gloomy Days Practically Unknown. - -CHAPTER IV. PROVINCE OF HAVANA.....21 - -The Province of Havana--The Pivotal Province of the Island--Visits by -Columbus and Velasquez--Topography of the Province--Soil and -Products--Agricultural Wealth--The Fruit Industry--Manufacturing--The -Harbor of Havana--Transportation Facilities--The Water Supply--The -Climate--The Seat of Government and Social Centre of the Island. - -CHAPTER V. PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO.....34 - -The Province of Pinar del Rio--A Picturesque Region--Interesting -Topography--The Organ Mountains--The Vinales Valley--A Rare Palm -Tree--Hard Wood Timber--Agriculture--Harbors and Fishing -Interests--Tobacco Lands of the Vuelta Abajo--Coffee -Plantations--Mineral Resources. - -CHAPTER VI. PROVINCE OF MATANZAS.....49 - -The Province of Matanzas--Comparatively Unimportant in History--A Great -Drainage and Traffic Canal--Rivers and Mountains--The Coast and -Islands--The Henequen Industry--The City of Matanzas--The Caves of -Bellamar--Sugar Production--Mineral Resources. - -CHAPTER VII. PROVINCE OF SANTA CLARA.....60 - -The Province of Santa Clara--A Land of Great Variety of Scenes--Ancient -Gold-Seeking--The Mountain Ranges--Rich Lands of the Parks and -Valleys--Rivers and Lakes--Harbors--Cities of the Province--The “Swamp -of the Shoe”--Forests, Sugar Plantations, Tobacco, and -Coffee--Opportunities for Stock Raising. - -CHAPTER VIII. PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY.....71 - -The Province of Camaguey--Where Columbus First Landed--In the Days of -Velasquez--Events of the Ten Years’ War--Topography of the -Province--Mountain Ranges--Rivers and Coastal Lagoons--Harbors--Lack of -Railroads--The Sugar Industry--Minerals--American Colonies--Some Noted -Men. - -CHAPTER IX. PROVINCE OF ORIENTE.....83 - -The Province of Oriente--Area and Topography--Mountains and Rivers--Fine -Harbors--Great Sugar Mills--Scene of the First Spanish Settlement in -Cuba--The Bay of Guantanamo--Santiago de Cuba--Copper -Mines--Manzanillo--The Cauto Valley--Sugar Plantations and Stock -Ranches--Timber and Minerals--American Colonies. - -CHAPTER X. THE ISLE OF PINES.....99 - -The Isle of Pines--An Integral Part of Cuba--American Settlements and -Claims--Character of the Island--Infertile and Storm Swept--Vast -Deposits of Muck--Marble Quarries--Efforts to Promote Agricultural -Interests. - -CHAPTER XI. MINES AND MINING.....104 - -Mines and Mining--The Early Quest of Gold--First Working of Copper -Mines--The Wealth of El Cobre--Copper in All Parts of Cuba--Operations -in Pinar del Rio--Vast Iron Deposits in Oriente--Nickel and -Manganese--Exports of Ore--American Investigation of Chrome -Deposits--Many Beds of Great Richness--Manganese and Chrome for All the -World. - -CHAPTER XII. ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM.....126 - -Asphalt and Petroleum--Ocampo’s Early Discovery at Puerto -Carenas--Humboldt’s Reports of Petroleum Wells--Prospecting for Oil in -Many Places--Some Promising Wells--Asphalt Deposits of Great -Value--Prospects for Important Petroleum Developments. - -CHAPTER XIII. FORESTRY.....135 - -Forestry--Vast Resources of Fine Woods Recklessly Squandered in Early -Times--Houses Built of Mahogany--Hundreds of Varieties of Valuable -Timber Trees--A Catalogue of Sixty of the Most Useful--Need of -Transportation for the Lumber Trade--Forests Owned by the State. - -CHAPTER XIV. AGRICULTURE.....144 - -Agriculture--The Chief Interest of Cuba--Fertility of Soil, Geniality of -Climate, and Variety of Products--The Rainfall--Many Farmers -Specialists--The Government’s Experimental Station--Opportunities for -Stock-Raising--Work of the Department of Agriculture--Its Various -Bureaus--Value of Experimental Work Begun by General Wood and Extended -by President Menocal--Improving Live Stock--Fruit Growing--Grains and -Grasses--Combating Insect Pests--Bureau of Plant Sanitation. - -CHAPTER XV. SUGAR.....160 - -“King Cane”--Cuba’s Crop and the World’s Production--Natural Conditions -Favorable to Sugar Culture--Extent of Lands Still Available--The -“Savana” and “Cienaga” Lands--Assured Projects for Draining Great -Swamps--Potential Increase of Sugar Production in Cuba--Methods of -Planting, Culture and Harvesting--The Labor Problem--Improved -Machinery--Something About the Principal Sugar Producing Concerns in -Cuba and the Men Who Have Created Them and Are Directing Them--The -Largest Sugar Company in the World--Cuba’s Assured Rank as the World’s -Chief Sugar Plantation. - -CHAPTER XVI. TOBACCO.....183 - -The Tobacco Industry--First European Acquaintance with the Plant--The -Famous Fields of the Vuelta Abajo--Immense Productivity--Methods of -Culture and Harvesting--Various Regions of Tobacco Culture--Insect -Pests--Wholesale Use of Cheesecloth Canopies--Monetary Importance of the -Industry. - -CHAPTER XVII. HENEQUEN.....190 - -The Henequen Industry--The Source of Binding Twine for the Wheat -Fields--Cuban Plantations Now Surpassing Those of Yucatan--Methods of -Growth and Manufacture--Magnitude of the Industry and Possibilities of -Further Extension. - -CHAPTER XVIII. COFFEE.....197 - -The Coffee Industry--Early Plantations Which Were Neglected and -Abandoned--An Attractive Industry--Methods of Culture--Harvesting and -Marketing the Crop--Government Encouragement Being Given for Extension -of the Industry. - -Chapter XIX. The Mango.....203 - -The Mango--The King of Oriental Fruits--Two Distinct Types in Cuba--All -Varieties Prolific--The Trees and the Fruits--Some of the Favorite -Varieties--Marketing and Use. - -CHAPTER XX. CITRUS FRUITS.....211 - -Citrus Fruits--American Introduction of the Commercial -Industry--Varieties of Oranges--Comparison with Florida and California -Fruit--Grape Fruit in the Isle of Pines--Limes and Wild Oranges. - -CHAPTER XXI. BANANAS, PINEAPPLES AND OTHER FRUITS.....219 - -Antiquity and Universality of the Banana--Its Many Uses--Commercial -Cultivation in Cuba--Methods of Culture--Varieties--Pineapple Culture in -Cuba--One of the Staple Crops--Difficulty of Marketing--The Canning -Industry--The Fruit of the Anon--The Zapote or Sapodilla--The -Tamarind--The Mamey--The Guava--The Mamoncillo--Figs of All -Varieties--The Aguacate. - -CHAPTER XXII. GRAPES, CACAO, AND VANILLA.....232 - -Grape Culture Discouraged by Spain--Recent Development of the -Industry--Much Wine Drinking but Little Drunkenness--Food and Drink in -the Cacao--The Chocolate Industry--Culture and Manufacture of Cacao--The -Vanilla Bean--Methods of Gathering and Preparing the Crop. - -CHAPTER XXIII. VEGETABLE GROWING.....240 - -Vegetable Growing in Cuba--Regions Most Suitable for the Industry--Seed -Brought from the United States--Winter Crops of Potatoes--Green Peppers -a Profitable Crop--Cultivation of Tomatoes and Egg Plants--Okra--Lima -Beans and String Beans--Squashes and Pumpkins--Desirability of the -Canning Industry--Utility of Irrigation--Prospects of Profit in Truck -Farming. - -CHAPTER XXIV. STANDARD GRAINS AND FORAGE.....248 - -Indian Corn Indigenous--Improvements in Culture Desirable--Millet or -Kaffir Corn--Neglect of Wheat Growing--Culture of Upland -Rice--Possibilities of Swamp Rice Culture--Profusion of Meadow and -Pasture Grasses--Experiments with Alfalfa--Cultivation of Cow Peas and -Beans--Peanut Plantations. - -CHAPTER XXV. ANIMALS.....257 - -Paucity of Native Fauna--Deer, Caprimys and Ant Eaters--The Sand Hill -Crane--Guinea Fowls, Turkeys and Quails--Buzzards, Sparrow Hawks, -Mocking Birds and Wild Pigeons--Varieties of Parrots--The Oriole--The -Tody--The Lizard Cuckoo--The Trogon--Water Birds. - -CHAPTER XXVI. STOCK RAISING.....263 - -Introduction of Horses and Cattle by the Spaniards--Improvement in the -Quality of Stock--A Favorable Land for Cattle Ranges--Importation of -Blooded Stock from the United States and Europe--Introduction of the -Zebu--Great Profits in Hog Raising--Forage, Nuts and Root Crops for -Stock Food--Sheep and Goat Raising for Wool, Meat and Hides--Value of -the Angora Goat. - -CHAPTER XXVII. POULTRY: BEES: SPONGES.....278 - -Recent Scientific Development of the Poultry Industry--President -Menocal’s Importations of Choice Stock--Opportunities for -Agriculture--Wild and Domesticated Bees--Varieties of Honey Yielding -Flowers--Large Exportations of Wax and Honey--Valuable Sponge Fisheries -on the Cuban Coast. - -CHAPTER XXVIII. PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST.....284 - -Historic Interest of Havana Harbor--The Romance and Tragedy of El -Morro--“The Twelve Apostles”--The Vast Fortress of La Cabaña--The “Road -Without Hope”--A Scene of Slaughter--Cells of the Fortress Prison--The -Castillo de Punta--The Ancient City Walls--The Romance of La -Fuerza--Ancient Churches and Convents of Havana--The Cathedral and the -Tomb of Columbus--The San Francisco Convent--San Agustin--La -Merced--Santa Catalina--Santo Angel--Santa Clara--The Convent of -Belen--The Old Echarte Mansion--La Chorrera--Fort Cojimar--Some Ancient -Watch Towers and Fortresses--The Botanical Gardens. - -CHAPTER XXIX. HAVANA.....303 - -The Charms of Havana--Early History of the City--Made the Capital of -Cuba--The Quarries from Which It Was Built--Something About Its -Principal Streets and Buildings--Various Sections of the City--On the -Road to the Almandares--Principe Hill--The University of Havana--The -Famous Prado--The National Theatre--The Central Park and Parque de -Colon--Colon Cemetery--Music in Havana--Favorite Drives and Resorts--The -Bathing Beach--Fishing--Jai Alai--Baseball--Horse -Racing--Golf--Buildings of the Various Government Departments--Memories -of the Old Presidential Palace--Some Fine New Buildings--The New -Presidential Palace--The New Capitol--The National Hospital. - -CHAPTER XXX. A PARADISE OF PALM DRIVES.....326 - -A Paradise of Palm Drives--Splendor of the Flamboyans--The Road to -Guines--A Fine Drive to Matanzas--Roads from Havana to Guanajay, -Artemisa and the Ruby Hills--Old Military Roads Improved and -Extended--Fine Drives in Pinar del Rio--The Valley of Vinales--Some -Wonderful Landscapes and Seascapes--Roads Radiating from Matanzas--The -Roads of Santa Clara and Camaguey--Road Making Among the Mountains of -Oriente. - -CHAPTER XXXI. BAYS AND HARBORS.....340 - -The Bays and Harbors of the Cuban Coasts--Bahia -Honda--Cabanas--Mariel--Havana--Matanzas--The Land-Locked Bay of -Cardenas--Santa Clara Bay--Sagua--Caibarien--The Bay of -Nuevitas--Manati--Puerto -Padre--Gibara--Banes--Nipe--Levisa--Baracoa--Guantanamo--Santiago--Manzanillo--Cienfuegos--Batabano--Santa -Cruz--Various Other Ports, Great and Small. - -CHAPTER XXXII. RAILROAD SYSTEMS IN CUBA.....353 - -Origin of the Railroad Systems of Cuba--The United Railways of -Havana--The Matanzas Railway--Electric Lines Around Havana--The Great -Work of Sir William Van Horne--The Cuba Company’s Railroad System--The -Cuba Central Road--The North Shore Line--Other Lines and Branches -Existing or Projected. - -CHAPTER XXXIII. MONEY AND BANKING.....361 - -Money and Banking in Cuba--The First Currency of the Island--The First -Monetary Crisis at Havana--Development of Modern Coinage and -Currency--Single Standard and Double Standard--Colonial Paper -Money--Stabilization of Currency Under American Rule--Statistics of -Shipments of Money--Coinage of Cuban Money Under the New -System--Financing the Foreign Commerce of the Island. - -CHAPTER XXXIV. PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.....367 - -The Educational System of Cuba--Influences of Clericalism--Work of -General Wood and Mr. Frye--Cooperation of Harvard University--Dr. -Lincoln de Zayas--The Teaching of English--Progress Under President -Menocal--Scope of the System--Some Special Schools--Normal Schools--The -Institute of Havana--The National University--Cooperation with the -United States--The Free Public Library. - -CHAPTER XXXV. OCEAN TRANSPORTATION.....376 - -Importance of Ocean Transportation to the Insular Republic--Development -of the United Fruit Company--The Ward Line and Its Fleet--A Network of -Communications with All Parts of the World--Service of the Munson -Line--The Peninsular and Occidental Company--The Railroad Ferry Service -from Key West to Cuba--The Pinillos Izquierdo Line from Spain--The -Morgan or Southern Pacific Line--The Great Fleet of the Compagnie -General Transatlantique--A New Line from Japan--Customs Regulations--The -Consular Service of Cuba. - -CHAPTER XXXVI. AMERICAN COLONIES IN CUBA.....390 - -American Colonies in Cuba--Founded After the War of -Independence--Pernicious Activities of Unscrupulous American -Speculators--Heroic Efforts of Illfounded Colonies--The Story of La -Gloria and Its Neighbors--Colonization of the Isle of Pines--The Colony -of Herradura--Various Colonies in Oriente--Inducements to Further -Colonization. - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -FULL PAGE PLATES - -Francisco de Fri _Frontispiece_ - - FACING - PAGE - -The Vinales Valley 36 - -San Juan River, Matanzas 54 - -On the Cauto River 92 - -National Theatre, Central Park, Havana 144 - -The Gomez Building 190 - -Pablo Desvernine 284 - -In New Havana 296 - -Colon Park 306 - -An Avenue of Palms 326 - -Grand Central Railway Station, Havana 354 - -Leopoldo Cancio 362 - -The Chamber of Commerce, Havana 376 - - -TEXT EMBELLISHMENTS - -City Hall and Plaza, Cardenas Page 56 - -A Mountain Road, Oriente “ 84 - -Cuban Rural Home “ 145 - -Fruit Vender, Havana “ 209 - - - - -THE HISTORY OF CUBA - - - - -CHAPTER I - -THE PEOPLE OF CUBA - - -In the last analysis, of course, the people of a country have much to do -in making it what it is, or what it may be. From them must come the -life, energy, character and development. They will regulate its social -standing and fulfill the promise of its future. Society in Cuba, as in -nearly all long settled countries, is many sided, and while resembling, -more or less, that of all civilized communities, certain racial traits -stand out prominently in the Island Republic. - -If asked to name the most prominent or salient characteristics -dominating the Cuban race, we should probably be justified in saying: -unfailing hospitality, exceptional courtesy, and unmeasurable love of -children. - -Hospitality in Cuba is not a pose, but on the contrary is perfectly -natural, having descended from a long line of ancestors, as have the -beauty of eyes and teeth and color of hair. Hospitality among those of -higher education, like courtesy, is tempered with good form that -breeding has rendered an essential characteristic of the individual. -Journeying through the rural or remote sections, it is so manifestly -genuine that unless held back or retarded through diffidence or -suspicion, no one can avoid being deeply impressed with the extent to -which hospitality has pervaded every corner of the country. - -John B. Henderson, the naturalist, in his “Cruise of the Barrera,” -refers to an occasion when, after serving coffee in the house of a -native family living far from contact with the outside world, a dollar -had been surreptitiously given to a child; and when the guests, whom he -had never seen before, were quite a mile away, the father came running -breathlessly down the mountain path to return the money, which he said -he could not possibly accept under any circumstances. - -True courtesy, also, has kept hospitality close company in all grades of -society. Among the higher ranks of scholars, statesmen and Government -officials, the visitor who by chance has occasion to call on the Chief -of any Department, if said individual belongs to the old type of genuine -nobility, from the moment he crosses the threshold will note certain -polite forms that, while never obtrusive, are always in evidence. - -No word, gesture or deed will come from the host that can possibly jar -the sensibilities of the visitor, no matter what his errand may be. -During his stay, courtesy will seem to pervade the atmosphere, and the -caller cannot help feeling absolutely at home. Upon leaving, he will be -made to feel that he has been more than welcome, and even if the topic -discussed or the nature of the errand has been delicate, he will realize -that he has been given all the consideration that one gentleman could -expect of another. - -The educated Cuban is by birth, by nature and by training, a polished -gentleman and a diplomat; a man who will be at ease in any position, no -matter how difficult, and whose superior, socially or intellectually, is -seldom found in any court, committee or congregation of men. This all -prevailing trait of courtesy is also surprisingly manifest among those -who have had no advantages of education, and who have been denied the -wonderfully civilizing influence of travel and contact with the outside -world. Nor is this trait of courtesy and self possession confined by any -means to the man. - -Love of children, and willingness to make any sacrifice for their -happiness, are perhaps exaggerated developments of the motherly -instinct. A man will be polite to you in Cuba even if he intends to sign -your death warrant the next moment. A Cuban mother will yield to any -caprice of her children, even although she may realize that in so doing -she endangers their future. As a result, Cuban children, although -lovable and affectionate, are not always well behaved or gentle -mannered. Still this depends largely, as it would in any country, on the -temperament and education of the mother, who in Cuba has all to do -towards forming the character of the child, especially the daughter, in -whose “bringing up” the father is supposed to take no immediate interest -or part. - -The love which parents, rich or poor, educated or ignorant, bestow on -their children, no matter how many little ones may compose the family, -or how small the purse which feeds them, is proverbial. No child, even -of a far removed relative, is ever permitted to enter an institution of -charity if it can be avoided, but will find instead an immediate and -hearty welcome in the family of a man who may not know at times where to -look for money for the next day’s meal. - -The original stock from which sprang the natives of Cuba, and from which -many of their traits undoubtedly came, reverts back to the followers of -Columbus, and to the old time conquerors of Mexico and the New World. -These gentlemanly adventurers were mostly from the southern provinces of -the Iberian Peninsula, whose blood was more or less mixed with that of -the Moor, and whose chief physical characteristics were regularity of -features, beauty of eyes, teeth and hair, and whose mental attributes -were dominated by pride, ambition, love of pomp and ceremony, with great -powers of endurance, a strong aversion to ordinary forms of labor, -exceptional courtesy, and an intelligence frequently marred with almost -unbelievable cruelty. - -These original pioneers or soldiers of fortune in Cuba found the climate -exceedingly to their liking and, after love of conquest and adventure -had been tempered by increasing years, and the possible accumulation of -modest means, they settled down to quiet and fairly industrious lives -in the Pearl of the Antilles. From them sprang the true Cuban race, in -which still remain many of the physical, moral, and intellectual traits -of their ancestors. - -Some of these early settlers made wives of comely Indian women, whose -beauty had captured their fancy, and while the influence of the kindly, -pleasure-loving “Cubenos” has not made any deep or striking impression -on the race, it may account for the quite common fondness of display and -love of gaiety found in the Cuban of today. - -Next to the pioneers of Andalusia and southern Spain, it is probable -that the introduction of French blood has influenced the Cuban type and -life more than any other race foreign to the Island. Back in the -seventeenth century French traders and privateers made frequent visits -to Cuba, and some of them found Cuban wives, whose descendants afterward -became citizens of the country. Then again, in the very first years of -the nineteenth century, a large influx of French settlers, forced by -revolution from Santo Domingo, fled as refugees to Cuba and made for -themselves homes in Santiago and Santa Clara, whence with the increase -of Havana’s distinction as the capital, many of them transferred their -abiding place to that province and to Pinar del Rio, bringing with them -their experience as coffee growers; this in the early part of the -nineteenth century, becoming one of the most important industries of the -Island. - -In the province of Havana, social life and the Cuban race itself, to a -certain extent, were influenced by the various officials and army -officers sent there from the mother country, many of whom found wives -and made homes in Havana, bringing with them the predominating traits -and customs of Madrid and other cities of Central Spain, which had given -them birth. - -In later years, when Cuba began to obtain some prominence in the -industrial and commercial world, immigrants from the mother country came -to Havana in steadily increasing numbers. These were mostly from Galicia -and other northern coast provinces of Spain. They were a plodding, -frugal and industrious people, who, leaving a country that offered -little compensation for the hardest forms of labor, found easier work -and higher pay in Spain’s favorite colony. - -The Gallego in Cuba, however, prefers the life of the city, in which he -plays quite an important part, since beginning at the very bottom of the -ladder, through patient thrift and industry, maintained throughout a -comparatively few years, he often succeeds in becoming the proprietor of -a bodega, the ubiquitous barber shop, the corner café, or the sumptuous -hotel on the Prado. - -In the commercial life of the Island, he has a serious rival in the -Catalan, who, while possessed of many of the traits of the hard working -son of Galicia, is perhaps his superior in establishing successful -enterprises of larger scope. The Catalan seldom if ever fails in -business, and in energy, persistence and keen foresight, is quite the -equal of those most famous of all traders and men of commerce, the sons -of Israel. - -Since the capture of Havana in 1763, when some of the members of the -English army, captivated by the climate, concluded to remain there -permanently, a small influx of English immigrants may be traced along -through the past century, but never in sufficient numbers to play a very -important part in the social or economical life of the country. -Nevertheless, those who came and remained as permanent residents of -Cuba, brought with them the elements of courage, thrift and integrity -which characterize the English colonist in all parts of the world. -Strange to relate, the general rule in regard to the unconformity of the -English, when living in foreign climes, does not seem to apply in Cuba. - -The immigrant from Great Britain, who settled in Cuba, while leaving the -imprint of his character on his descendants, has nevertheless, sooner or -later, become in many respects a typical native of the country, adopting -even the language, and using it as his own, while his children, bright -blue eyed and keenly intelligent, are often permitted to remain -ignorant of their paternal tongue. Hence it is that we frequently meet -with Robert Smith, Henry Brown, Herbert Clews, Frank Godoy, Tom -Armstrong and Billy Patterson, sons or grandsons of former British -subjects, who would look at you in doubt and fail to comprehend if -saluted with such a common phrase as “a fine day” in English. Cuba has -appreciated the sterling value of the small English immigration that has -come to her shores, and only regrets that there is not more of it. - -Quite a large sprinkling from the Emerald Isle have become permanent -residents of Cuba, and aside, perhaps, from a little trace of the -original brogue, it would be hard to distinguish them from the wide -awake Gallegos. The men of no race will so quickly adjust themselves to -circumstances, and become, as it were, members of the family, no matter -whether they settle in France, Italy, Spain, Cuba or the United States, -as will the immigrants from Ireland. The Irishman brings with him, and -always retains, his light-hearted, go-as-you-please and -take-it-as-it-comes characteristics, no matter where he settles. More -than all, the Irishman seldom makes trouble in any country but his own, -and seems not only content, but quite willing, to accept the customs of -his adopted country, even to the point of “running it” if opportunity -offers. - -Why more Italians have not settled in Cuba, a country that in many -respects resembles some sections of southern Italy, is not easy to -determine, although it is probably due to a lack of propaganda on the -part of the Republic itself. Occasional commercial houses are found, -owned by Italians who have been residents there for many years, and a -few of the laboring class, seeking higher wages within the last few -years, have made their homes in Havana. Marvellous opportunities in the -various fields of agriculture wait the keen witted thrifty Italian in -Cuba. The certainty of a competence, if not a fortune, in small stock -raising and grape growing, evidently has not been brought to his -attention, otherwise more would have come and settled permanently in a -country with whose people, in their fondness for music, their religious -and social customs, they have much in common. - -Of the Germans, of whom quite a number came to Cuba within the last -thirty years, a different tale is told. The Teuton who roams abroad -seems to come always with a definite purpose. He is diplomatic, -courteous, observing, hard working, but essentially selfish in his -motives, and makes no move the object of which is not to impress on the -land he visits, or in which he may become a permanent resident, every -custom, tradition and practice of the Fatherland that can possibly be -implanted in the country that has given him shelter or social -recognition. His club, his habits, his beer, his songs, his language and -his precepts of “Deutscher Ueber Alles,” are spread to the utmost of his -ability. But the German has been efficient and has catered in all his -commercial dealings to the customs, caprices and even to the vices or -weaknesses of the people with whom he trades and comes in contact. Hence -it is that, up to the outbreak of the war of 1914, Germany certainly had -the advantage over every competitor for trade from the Rio Grande to -Patagonia. - -Strange as it may seem, although Cuba is no farther from American -territory in Florida than is Philadelphia from the City of New York, -there was very little immigration from the United States and almost no -citizens of that country, in spite of the attractions of the Pearl of -the Antilles, had apparently ever thought of making a home in Cuba, -until the Spanish-American War brought an army of occupation to the City -of Havana in the fall of 1898. - -Following this army, as a result perhaps of favorable reports that came -from the lips of returning soldiers, quite an influx of Americans, -actuated by curiosity or motives of trade, came to Cuba and remained -here permanently, many marrying into Cuban families, purchasing farms, -or establishing branch houses and independent industries in the Island -Republic. Most of these have succeeded socially and financially. - -The larger part of the American settlers of 1900 came from Florida, and -the Gulf States, although scattered throughout the various colonies of -the Island are found people from almost every State of the Union. While -the greater part of them, owing to the attractiveness and to better -transportation facilities have remained in or near Havana, quite a -number have settled in the Province of Camaguey, most of whom have -prospered there as stock raisers and followers of agricultural -industries. - -The American as a rule, although of little experience as a colonizer, -has nevertheless readily adapted himself to circumstances, and had made -fast friends in his new surroundings. Many broad and excellent changes -have been brought about by this influx of citizens from the sister -Republic of the North. Most important of all was the introduction of an -excellent system of modern sanitation which the Cuban has appreciated -and followed with zeal. The absolute elimination of yellow fever and -every other disease common to the tropics, can be placed to the credit -of the country that became sponsor for Cuban Independence. - -To this immigration may be attributed, also, many changes in Cuban -social life, especially the gradually broadening sphere of activity -among Cuban women, and the removal of some of the social barriers which -from the immemorial had placed her in the position of a treasured toy, -rather than that of an independent partner, and a responsible unit in -the game of life. - -The impress of American influence on education, too, has been very -great, since almost the first move of the military forces that took -charge of the Island’s affairs with the exit of Spanish authority was to -establish in Cuba a public school system, and modern ideas of education. - -To the American farmer and fruit grower of Florida was due also the -introduction of the citrus fruit industry, and the growing of -vegetables on a large scale for the northern market, and while these -enterprises are still, to a certain extent, in their infancy, many -millions of dollars have been added thus to the wealth of the Island. In -spite of what has been done, truth compels the statement, however, that -in the United States really little is known of Cuba and her -opportunities, although from the beginning of that country as a nation, -aside from Mexico, geographically Cuba has been her closest neighbor. - -There are great possibilities for American enterprise in the Island -Republic, in agriculture, in stock raising, mining and other industries -that American genius in the near future will undoubtedly discover and -develop. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -THE TOPOGRAPHY OF CUBA - - -Topographically the surface of Cuba may be divided into five rather -distinct zones, three of which are essentially mountainous. The first -includes the entire eastern third of the province of Oriente, together -with the greater part of its coast line, where the highest mountains of -the Island are found. The second includes the greater part of the -province of Camaguey, made up of gently rolling plains broken by -occasional hills or low mountains, that along the northern coast, and -again in the southeast center of the Province, rise to a height of -approximately 1500 feet above the general level. - -The next is a mountainous district including the greater part of eastern -Santa Clara. The fourth comprises the western portion of this province -together with all of Matanzas and Havana. The surface of this middle -section is largely made up of rolling plains, broken here and there by -hills that rise a few hundred feet above the sea level. - -The fifth includes the province of Pinar del Rio, the northern half of -which is traversed from one end to the other by several more or less -parallel ranges of sierras, with mean altitudes ranging from 1,000 to -2,000 feet, leaving the southern half of the Province a flat plain, into -which, along its northern edge, project spurs and foothills of the main -range. - -The highest mountains of Cuba are located in the province of Oriente, -where their general elevation is somewhat higher than that of the -Allegheny or eastern ranges of the United States. The mountainous area -of this province is greater than that of the combined mountain areas of -all other parts of the Island. The mountains occur in groups, composed -of different kinds of rock, and have diverse structures, more or less -connected with one another. - -The principal range is the Sierra Maestra, extending from Cabo Cruz to -the Bay of Guantanamo, forty miles east of Santiago. This chain is -continuous and of fairly uniform altitude, with the exception of a break -in the vicinity of Santiago where the wide basin of Santiago Bay cuts -across the main trend of the range. The highest peak of the Island is -known as Turquino, located near the middle of the Sierra Maestra, and -reaching an altitude of 8,642 feet. - -The hills back of Santiago Bay, separating it from the Valley of the -Cauto, are similar in structure to the northern foothills of the main -sierra. In the western part of the range, the mountains rise abruptly -from the depths of the Caribbean Sea, but near the City of Santiago, and -to the eastward, they are separated from the ocean by a narrow coastal -plain, very much dissected. The streams which traverse it occupy valleys -several hundred feet in depth, while the remnants of the plateau appear -in the tops of the hills. - -East of Guantanamo Bay there are mountains which are structurally -distinct from the Sierra Maestra, and these continue to Cape Maisi, the -eastern terminus of Cuba. To the west they rise abruptly from the ocean -bed, but further east, they are bordered by terraced foothills. Towards -the north they continue straight across the Island as features of bold -relief, connecting with the rugged Cuchillas of Baracoa, and with “El -Yunque” lying to the southwest. - -Extending west from this eastern mass are high plateaus and mesas that -form the northern side of the great amphitheatre which drains into -Guantanamo Bay. Much of this section, when raised from the sea, was -probably a great elevated plain, cut up and eroded through the ages -since the seismic uplift that caused its birth. - -The most prominent feature of the northern mountains of Oriente -Province, west of “El Yunque,” is the range comprising the Sierras -Cristal and Nipe. These extend east and west, but are separated into -several distinct masses by the Rio Sagua and the Rio Mayari, which break -through and empty into harbors on the north coast. The high country -south of these ranges has the character of a deeply dissected plateau, -the upper stratum of which is limestone. - -The character of the surface would indicate that nearly all the -mountains of the eastern part of Oriente have been carved through -erosion of centuries from a high plateau, the summits of which are found -in “El Yunque” near Baracoa, and other flat topped mountains within the -drainage basins of the Mayari and the Sagua rivers. The flat summits of -the Sierra Nipe are probably remnants of the same great uplift. - -Below this level are other benches or broad plateaus, the two most -prominent occurring respectively at 1500 and 2000 feet above sea level. -The highest summits rise to an altitude of 2800 or 3000 feet. The 2000 -foot plateau of the Sierra Nipe alone includes an area estimated at not -less than 40 square miles. It would seem that these elevated plateaus -with their rich soils might be utilized for the production of wheat, and -some of the northern fruits that require a cooler temperature than that -found in other parts of Cuba. - -In the province of Oriente, the various mountain groups form two -marginal ranges, which merge in the east, and diverge toward the west. -The southern range is far more continuous, while the northern is -composed of irregular groups separated by numerous river valleys. -Between these divergent ranges lies the broad undulating plain of the -famous Cauto Valley, which increases in width as it extends westward. -The northern half of this valley merges into the plains of Camaguey, -whose surface has been disturbed by volcanic uplifts only by a small -group known as the Najassa Hills, in the southeast center of the -province, and by the Sierra Cubitas Range, which parallels the coast -from the basin of Nuevitas Bay until it terminates in the isolated hill -known as Loma Cunagua. - -The central mountainous region of the Island is located in the province -of Santa Clara, where a belt of mountains and hills following -approximately northeast and southwest lines, passes through the cities -of Sancti Spiritus and Santa Clara. Four groups are found here, one of -which lies southwest of Sancti Spiritus, and east of the Rio Agabama. A -second group is included between the valleys of the Agabama and the Rio -Arimao. - -The highest peak of Santa Clara is known as Potrerillo, located seven -miles north of Trinidad, with an altitude of 2,900 feet. A third group -lies southeast of the city of Santa Clara, and includes the Sierra del -Escambray and the Alta de Agabama. The rounded hills of this region have -an altitude of about 1,000 feet although a few of the summits are -somewhat higher. - -The fourth group consists of a line of hills, beginning 25 miles east of -Sagua la Grande, and extending into the province of Camaguey. The trend -of this range is transverse to the central mountain zone as a whole, but -it conforms in direction with the general geological structure of the -region. - -East of the city of Santa Clara the hills of this last group merge with -those of the central portion of the province. The summits in the -northern line reach an altitude of only a thousand feet. The principal -members are known as the Sierra Morena, west of Sagua la Grande, Lomas -de Santa Fe, near Camaguani, the Sierra de Bamburanao, near Yaguajay, -and the Lomas of the Savanas, south of the last mentioned town. - -In the province of Pinar del Rio, we find another system, or chain of -mountains, dominated by the Sierra de los Organos or Organ mountains. -These begin a little west of Guardiana Bay, with a chain of “magotes,” -known as the “Pena Blanca,” composed of tertiary limestone. These are -the result of a seismic upheaval running from north to south, almost at -right angles with the main axis of the chains that form the mountainous -vertebrae of the Island. - -Between the city of Pinar del Rio and the north coast at La Esperanza, -the Organos are broken up into four or five parallel ridges, two of -which are composed of limestone, while the others are of slate, -sandstones and schists. The term “magote,” in Cuba, is applied to one of -the most interesting and strikingly beautiful mountain formations in the -world. They are evidently remnants of high ranges running usually from -east to west, and have resulted from the upheaval of tertiary strata -that dates back probably to the Jurassic period. - -The soft white material of this limestone, through countless eons of -time, has been hammered by tropical rains that gradually washed away the -surface and carved their once ragged peaks into peculiar, round, -dome-shaped elevations that often rise perpendicularly to a height of -1,000 feet or more above the level grass plains that form their base. -Meanwhile the continual seepage of water formed great caverns within -that sooner or later caved in and fell, hastening thus the gradual -leveling to which all mountains are doomed as long as the world is -supplied with air and water. The softening and continual crumbling away -of the rock have formed a rich soil on which grows a wonderful wealth of -tropical vegetation, unlike anything known to other sections of Cuba, or -perhaps in the world. - -The valley of the Vinales, lying between the City of Pinar del Rio and -the north coast, might well be called the garden of the “magotes,” since -not only is it surrounded by their precipitous walls, but several of -them, detached from the main chain, rise abruptly from the floor of the -valley, converting it into one of the most strangely beautiful spots in -the world. - -John D. Henderson, the naturalist, in speaking of this region, says: -“The valley of the Vinales must not be compared with the Yosemite or -Grand Canon, or some famed Alpine passage, for it cannot display the -astounding contrasts of these, or of many well-known valleys among the -higher mountains of the world. We were all of us traveled men who viewed -this panorama, but all agreed that never before had we gazed on so -charming a sight. There are recesses among the Rocky Mountains of Canada -in which one gazes with awe and bated breath, where the very silence -oppresses, and the beholder instinctively reaches out for support to -guard against slipping into the awful chasm below. But the Valley of -Vinales, on the contrary, seems to soothe and lull the senses. Like -great birds suspended in the sky, we long to soar above it, and then -alighting within some palm grove, far below, to rejoice in its -atmosphere of perfect peace.” - -A mountain maze of high, round-topped lomas dominates almost the entire -northern half of Pinar del Rio. It is the picturesque remnant of an -elevated plain that at some time in the geological life of the Island -was raised above the surface 1500, perhaps 2000, feet. This, through the -erosion of thousands of centuries, has been carved into great land -surges, without any particular alignment or system. - -Straight up through the center of this mountainous area are projected a -series of more or less parallel limestone ridges. These, as a rule, have -an east and west axis, and attain a greater elevation than the lomas. -They are known as the Sierras de los Organos, although having many local -names at different points. Water and atmospheric agencies have carved -them into most fantastic shapes, so that they do, in places, present an -organ pipe appearance. They are almost always steep, often with vertical -walls or “paradones” that rise 1000 feet from the floor or base on which -they rest. - -The northernmost range, running parallel to the Gulf Coast, is known as -the “Costanero.” The highest peak of Pinar del Rio is called Guajaibon, -which rises to an altitude of 3000 feet, with its base but very little -above the level of the sea. It is probably of Jurassic limestone and -forms the eastern outpost of the Costaneros. - -The southern range of the Organos begins with an interesting peak known -as the Pan de Azucar, located only a few miles east of the Pena Blanca. -From this western sentinel with many breaks extends the great southern -chain of the Organos with its various groups of “magotes,” reaching -eastward throughout the entire province. At its extreme eastern terminus -we find a lower and detached ridge known as the Pan de Guanajay, which -passes for a few miles beyond the boundary line, and into the province -of Havana. - -Surrounding the Organos from La Esperanza west, and bordering it also on -the south for a short distance east of the city of Pinar del Rio, are -ranges of round topped lomas, composed largely of sandstone, slate and -shale. The surface of these is covered with the small pines, scrubby -palms and undergrowth found only on poor soil. - -From the Mulato River east, along the north coast, the character of the -lomas changes abruptly. Here we have deep rich soil covered with -splendid forests of hard woods, that reach up into the Organos some ten -miles back from the coast. Along the southern edge of the Organos, from -Herredura east, lies a charming narrow belt of rolling country covered -with a rich sandy loam that extends almost to the city of Artemisa. - -Extensions, or occasional outcroppings, of the Pinar del Rio mountain -system, appear in the province of Havana, and continue on into Matanzas, -where another short coastal range appears, just west of the valley of -the Yumuri. This, as before stated, has its continuation in detached -ridges that extend along the entire north coast, with but few -interruptions, until merged into the mountain maze of eastern Oriente. - -Outside of the mountainous districts thus described, the general surface -of Cuba is a gently undulating plain, with altitudes varying from only -a few feet above the sea level to 500 or 600 feet, near El Cristo in -Oriente. In Pinar del Rio it forms a piedmont plain that entirely -surrounds the mountain range. On the south this plain has a maximum -width of about 25 miles and ascends gradually from the shores of the -Caribbean at the rate of seven or eight feet to the mile until it -reaches the edge of the foothills along the line of the automobile -drive, connecting Havana with the capital of Pinar del Rio. - -North of the mountain range the lowland belt is very much narrower and -in some places reaches a height of 200 feet as a rule deeply dissected, -so that in places only the level of the hill tops mark the position of -the original plain. - -The two piedmont plains of Pinar del Rio unite at the eastern extremity -of the Organos Mountains and extend over the greater part of the -provinces of Havana and Matanzas and the western half of Santa Clara. -The divide as a rule is near the center of this plain, although the land -has a gradual slope from near its northern margin towards the south. - -In the neighborhood of Havana, the elevation varies between 300 and 400 -feet, continuing eastward to Cardenas. The streams flowing north have -lowered their channels as the land rose, and the surface drained by them -has become deeply dissected, while the streams flowing toward the south -have been but little affected by the elevation and remain generally in -very narrow channels. - -East of Cardenas the general elevation of the plain is low, sloping -gradually both north and south from the axis of the Island. Considerable -areas of this plain are found among the various mountain groups in the -eastern half of Santa Clara province, beyond which it extends over the -greater part of Camaguey and into Oriente. Here it reaches the northern -coast between isolated mountain groups, extending as far east as Nipe -Bay, and toward the south merges into the great Cauto Valley. - -From Cabo Cruz the plain extends along the northern base of the Sierra -Maestra to the head of the Cauto valley. Its elevation near Manzanillo -is about 200 feet, whence it increases to 640 feet at El Cristo. In the -central section of Oriente, the Cauto River and its tributaries have cut -channels into this plain from 50 to 200 feet in depth. In the lower part -of the valley these channels are sometimes several miles across and are -occupied by alluvial flats or river bottoms. They decrease in width -towards the east and in the upper part of the valley become narrow -gorges. - -A large part of this plain of Cuba, especially in the central provinces, -is underlaid by porous limestone, through which the surface waters have -found underground passages. This accounts for the fact that large areas -are occasionally devoid of flowing surface streams. The rain water sinks -into the ground as soon as it falls, and after flowing long distances -under ground, emerges in bold springs, such as those of the Almandares -that burst out of the river bank some eight miles south of the City of -Havana. Engineers of the rope and cordage plant, just north of the City -of Matanzas, while boring for water, found unexpectedly a swift, running -river, only ten feet below the surface, that has given them an -inexhaustible supply of excellent water. - -Most of the plains of Cuba above indicated have been formed by the -erosion of its surface, and are covered with residual soil derived from -the underlying limestones. Where they consist of red or black clays they -are exceedingly fertile. Certain portions of the plains, especially -those bordering on the southern side of the mountains of Pinar del Rio, -are covered with a layer of sand and gravel, washed down from the -adjoining highlands, and are inferior in fertility to soils derived from -the erosion of limestone. Similar superficial deposits are met in the -vicinity of Cienfuegos, and in other sections of the Island, where the -plain forms a piedmont adjacent to highlands composed of silicious -rocks. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE CLIMATE OF CUBA - - -Since on the climate of country depends largely its healthfulness, -nothing perhaps is of greater importance, especially to the man who -wishes to find some place where he may build his permanent home and -raise his family; to him this feature above all demands careful -consideration. - -The most striking and perhaps the most important fact in regard to the -climate of Cuba is its freedom from those extremes of temperature which -are considered prejudicial to health in any country. The difference -between the mean annual temperature of winter and that of summer is only -twelve degrees, or from 76 degrees to 88 degrees. Even between the -coldest days of winter, when the mercury once went as low as 58 degrees, -and the extreme limit of summer, registered as 92 degrees, we have a -difference of only 34 degrees; and the extremes of summer are seldom -noticed, since the fresh northeast trade winds coming from the Atlantic -sweep across the Island, carrying away with them the heated atmosphere -of the interior. - -The fact that the main axis of the Island, with its seven hundred mile -stretch of territory, extends from southeast to northwest, almost at -right angles to the general direction of the wind, plays a very -important part in the equability of Cuba’s climate. Then again, the -Island is completely surrounded by oceans, the temperature of which -remains constant, and this plays an important part in preventing -extremes of heat or cold. - -Ice, of course, cannot form, and frost is found only on the tops of the -tallest mountain ranges. The few cold days during winter, when the -thermometer may drop to 60 after sundown, are the advance waves of -“Northers” that sweep down from the Dakotas, across Oklahoma and the -great plains of Texas, eventually reaching Cuba, but only after the -sting of the cold has been tempered in its passage of six hundred miles -across the Gulf of Mexico. - -A temperature of 60 degrees in Cuba is not agreeable to the natives, or -even to those residents who once lived in northern climes. This may be -due to the fact that life in the Tropics has a tendency to thin the -blood, and to render it less resistant to low temperature; and also -because Cuban residences are largely of stone, brick or reinforced -concrete, with either tile or marble floors, and have no provision -whatever against cold. And, although the walls are heavy, the windows, -doors and openings are many times larger than those of residences in the -United States, hence the cold cannot readily be excluded as in other -countries. There is said to be but one fire-place in the Island of Cuba, -and that was built in the beautiful home of an American, near Guayabal, -just to remind him, he said, of the country whence he came. - -Again in the matter of rainfall and its bearing on the climate of a -country, Cuba is very fortunate. The rains all come in the form of -showers during the summer months, from the middle of May until the end -of October, and serve to purify and temper the heat of summer. On the -other hand, the cooler months of winter are quite dry, and absolutely -free from the chilling rains, sleets, snows, mists and dampness, that -endanger the health, if not the life, of those less fortunate people who -dwell in latitudes close to 40 degrees. - -Cloudy, gloomy days are almost unknown in Cuba, and the sun can be -depended upon to shine for at least thirty days every month, and -according to the testimony of physicians nothing is better than sunshine -to eliminate the germs of contagious diseases. Hence we can truthfully -says that in the matter of climate and health, Cuba asks no favor of any -country on earth. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -PROVINCE OF HAVANA - - -The Province of Havana, with its area of 3,171 square miles, is the -smallest in Cuba, and yet, owing to the city of Havana, capital of the -Republic, it plays a very important part in the social, political and -economic life of the Island. - -Geographically, it is the pivotal province of Cuba, since the narrowest -place across the long arch-like stretch of the Island is found along the -border between Havana and Pinar del Rio, where only twenty-two miles lie -between the Mexican Gulf and the Caribbean Sea. The province proper -measures about thirty miles from north to south, with an average width -of fifty-five. - -The topography of Havana includes a varied assortment of hills, ridges, -plateaus, valleys and plains, so that the scenery never becomes -monotonous; and with the numerous automobile drives that radiate from -the Capital, shaded with the luxuriant foliage of royal palms, bamboo -and other forms of tropical vegetation, it offers to the tourist and -traveler an almost endless panorama of charming change and pleasant -surprise. The average altitude of Havana province is slightly lower than -that of either Matanzas or Pinar del Rio, bordering on the east and -west. - -Columbus, on his second voyage of discovery, cruised along the southern -coast of Cuba until he reached a point a little west of the Indian -village of Batabano. Here he heard of another island not far to the -south. Leaving the coast he threaded his way through shoals and -scattered keys, that even up to the present time have been only -imperfectly charted, and finally, on July 12, 1494, landed at some place -on the northern shore. He called this island the Evangelist. It is the -largest of a chain of keys running parallel with this part of the south -coast, irregular in form with an area of approximately eight hundred -square miles, and forms the southern half of the judicial district of -Havana. - -Columbus remained here, taking on fresh water and wood, until July 25, -and then began his return voyage east, sailing over shoals that -displayed so many varying shades of green, purple and white, that his -mariners are said to have become alarmed. - -Some twenty years later Diego Velasquez cruised along the southern coast -to a point west of the Guines River, where he founded a city, which he -called San Cristobal de la Havana. The fifty odd colonists whom he left -behind soon became dissatisfied with the general surroundings of the -spot which he had selected for their abiding place and moved over to the -north shore of the Island near the mouth of the Almandares River, which -they found in every way more agreeable as a place of permanent -residence. In 1519 a second move was made to the Bay of Carenas, where -they located permanently on the harbor, destined soon after to become -the most important port of the West Indies. - -The inhabitants of that irregular group of palm thatched huts little -dreamed that four centuries later the Port of Havana would have a -foreign commerce whose tonnage is excelled by only one other in the -Western Hemisphere. - -With the exception of the low, grass-covered plains of the southern -shore, the topography of the Province of Havana is undulating and -picturesque. The northern shore, throughout most of its length, -especially from the City of Havana west to Matanzas, rises more or less -abruptly from the beach until it reaches a rather uneven plateau, -several hundred feet above the level of the sea. - -In the northwestern corner, some two miles back from the shore line, the -“Pan” or “Loma of Guayabon,” which is really a continuation of the Organ -Mountains of Pinar del Rio, forms a palm covered, picturesque ridge, -six hundred feet in height, extending from east to west for several -miles. Along the southern edge of this range of hills, runs a beautiful -automobile drive, connecting the capital with the city of Pinar del Rio, -the wonderful valley of the Vinales, Guane and the extreme western end -of the Island. A drive leading from the city of Guanajay extends fifty -miles northwest to the Bay of Bahia Honda, chosen originally as a -coaling station for the Navy, but never occupied. - -In the east central part of the province lie two small mountains known -as the Tetas de Bejucal, and from them, extending in an easterly -direction into the Province of Matanzas, are broken ridges, plateaus, -and hills that form one of the connecting links between the Organ group -of mountains in the west, and the still higher cordilleras of the -Province of Oriente in the extreme east. - -With the exception of the coastal plain running along the southern -boundary, the remainder of the province is undulating, more or less -hilly, and quite picturesque in its contour. A little east of the Tetas -de Bejucal, from the top of the divide that forms the water shed of the -province, looking south, one sees below him the Valley of the Guines, -known as the Garden of Havana. Thousands of acres are here spread out -before the view, all irrigated by the Guines River, whose source is in -the never failing springs that gush from the base of a mountain ridge in -the east center of the Province. - -The rich soil of this section, furnished as it is with water throughout -the year, produces a marvelous yield of sugar cane, potatoes, tomatoes, -peppers, egg plants and other vegetables, affording an inexhaustible -supply during the winter to the capital, forty miles north. Engineers -are making a study of this river so that its water may be more -economically distributed and the acreage of irrigated lands greatly -increased. - -In the southwestern quarter of Havana Province, known as the Tumbadero -District, experiments were first made in growing tobacco under cheese -cloth. These were so successful that in a few years Tumbadero, or Havana -wrappers, became famous for their fineness of texture, and within a -short time thousands of acres in that section were converted into -fields, or vegas, whose returns in tobacco leaf product were excelled in -value only by those of the celebrated Vuelta Abajo district of Pinar del -Rio. The towns of Alquizar and Guira de Melina were built and sustained -by the reputation of the Tumbadero wrapper, and the tobacco district was -soon extended well up into the center of the province, including Salud, -Rincon, San Antonio de los Banos, and Santiago de las Vegas. In the -northwestern corner of the Island, the rich valley extending south and -east of the “Pan de Guayabon,” including the towns of Caimito, Hoyo -Colorado, and Guayabal, has recently rivaled the Tumbadero district in -the excellence of its tobacco, and excels in citrus fruit. - -Over three-fourths of Havana Province have been blessed with a -remarkably fertile soil, and although much of it has been under -cultivation for three centuries or more, with the judicious use of -fertilizers, the returns, either in fruit or vegetables, are very -gratifying to the small farmer. - -Along the delightfully shaded automobile drives that radiate from the -Capital in nearly all directions, the price of land within thirty miles -of the city has risen so rapidly that it is being given over almost -entirely to suburban homes and country estates, maintained by the -wealthy residents of the capital. In a climate where frost is unknown, -where the foliage remains fresh and green throughout the winter, it is -comparatively easy to convert an ordinary farm into a veritable garden -of Eden. - -One of the most beautiful places on the Island within the last few years -has been created by General Mario G. Menocal, President of the Republic. -It covers several hundred acres and is known as “El Chico,” or the -“Little One.” A commanding residence of Cuban colonial architecture, -standing a little back from the road, has been surrounded with beautiful -drives, lined with every variety of fruit tree, flower and ornamental -plant known to Cuba. The green lawn sweeps up to the stately building -occupied by President Menocal as a residence or country seat in summer. -On this place may be found many varieties of poultry, recently imported -from the United States for experimental purposes, in which the President -is deeply interested. Competent gardeners and caretakers are maintained, -with the result that “El Chico,” where General Menocal and his family -spend much of their time, has become one of the show places of the -Province. - -Col. Jose Villalon, Secretary of Public Works, and Col. Charles -Hernandez, Director of Posts and Telegraph, have pretty country estates -located west of Havana, not far from El Chico. - -The soil of the Province, throughout most of its extent, has been formed -through the erosion of tertiary limestone, colored in many places a -reddish brown of oxide of iron that has impregnated most of the soils of -Cuba. Just south of Havana, serpentine has obtruded through the -limestone along a belt some two or three miles in extent, and forms the -round topped hills in evidence from the bay. - -The greater part of Havana Province, when found by the Spaniards, was -covered with forests of hard woods, that were gradually cut away during -the centuries in which the land has been tilled. The trees, according to -early records, included cedar, mahogany, acana, majagua and others, -still found in the mountainous districts and those sections of Cuba not -yet brought under cultivation. These valuable hard woods formed the -posts, joists, rafters, doors and windows of nearly all the old-time -residences of early days. Many buildings that have remained standing -through centuries, have ceilings that are supported by heavy carved -timbers of mahogany and give promise still of long years of service if -permitted to remain. - -The basic wealth of the province, as in nearly all other sections of -Cuba, is dependent on agriculture, although since the inauguration of -the Republic in 1902, manufacturing and various other industries are -beginning to play a prominent part in her economical wealth. - -In agricultural products, the Guines Valley previously referred to -undoubtedly produces greater returns than any other similar lands in -Cuba. Hundreds of thousands of crates of tomatoes, egg plants and other -vegetables, that have been raised through the whiter month by -irrigation, are shipped to the United States from December to April. -Thousands of barrels of Irish potatoes from the Guines Valley, also, are -sold in Philadelphia, New York and Boston during the month of March, at -prices averaging four dollars per hundred weight. - -In the Valley of Caimito, Guayabal and Hoyo Colorado, large crops of -vegetables are shipped to the northern markets during the winter months, -when good prices are assured. A certainty of profit, however, can only -be depended on where irrigation from wells is secured. - -Large acreages of pineapples are grown in the same district, although -the center of the pineapple industry in Havana today is located about -thirty miles east of the City, on the road to Matanzas. Over a million -crates every year are shipped out of Havana to the northern markets -between the middle of May and the middle of July. - -It is probable that no section of either the West Indies or the United -States offers greater opportunities for the canning industry than is -found in Cuba at the present time, especially in the Province of Havana, -where facilities for transportation are plentiful. A general canning and -preserving plant, intelligently conducted, could be operated in this -province throughout the entire year. In this way all of the surplus -pineapples not shipped abroad could be utilized. - -During the last few years several manufacturing industries have sprung -up on the outskirts of Havana, all of which seem to be yielding -satisfactory returns. Three large breweries are turning out a very good -grade of beer that is disposed of throughout the Island. The plants are -located in the suburbs of Havana, each surrounded by grounds rendered -attractive by landscape gardeners and furnishing places for recreation -and rest to both rich and poor on holidays, which are plentiful in Cuba. -A large up-to-date bottling plant, located just west of the City, -manufactures the containers for the output of the breweries. - -Between the city of Havana and the suburb of Ceiba, a modern rubber tire -and tube factory has been established, and is said to be working on full -time with very satisfactory profits. Several large soap and perfume -factories, recently established, are supplying the demand for these -products with satisfaction, it is said, both to the manufacturer and the -consumer. - -A number of brick yards and tile factories are located not far from the -City, the combined output of which is large. The erection of wooden -buildings within the city limits of Havana is not tolerated. In fact -they are not at all popular in Cuba since the climate is not conducive -to the preservation of wood, aside from cedar and mahogany or other hard -woods, which are too expensive for construction work. Limestone, easily -worked, and of a fine quality for this climate, is found in abundance, -hence it is that the vast amount of building going on at the present -time in Cuba makes heavy demands on both this material and brick, for -all constructive purposes. - -Nature has again favored this Island in her large deposits of excellent -cement-clay, limestone and sand, which are essential to the manufacture -of cement. The Almandares factory located on the west bank of that river -has long been in successful operation. Within the last year another -large modern cement factory has been established on the eastern shores -of the harbor of Mariel, twenty-five miles west of Havana, and today is -turning out high-grade cement at the rate of six hundred barrels per -day. - -Local factories have had a monopoly of the match-making industry in Cuba -for many years. Few, if any matches are imported from abroad, and may -never be, owing to the fact that the people of Cuba prefer the wax taper -match. Although short and rather inconvenient to those who are not -accustomed to this miniature candle, the flame burns longer and persists -more successfully in a breeze, hence it is probable that the Cuban match -will hold its own against all competitors. Quite a revenue is derived -from the penny stamp tax placed on each box of matches. - -Large quantities of pine lumber are imported into Cuba from the Gulf -cities, especially from South Pascagoula, Miss., and Mobile. This -material is used throughout the island for interior work, sash, doors, -blinds, etc. Unless covered with paint, hard pine is not very lasting in -this climate, for which reasons, perhaps, show cases, fancy work and -ornamental doors are usually built of the native cedar and majagua, -which are practically impervious to either decay or attack from boring -insects. - -The most important industry of the Province, from the monetary -viewpoint, at least, is the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes, which -are produced in greater quantity in Havana and throughout the province -than in any other part of the world. It is needless to state that the -cigars made in Havana from the celebrated Vuelta Abajo leaf are shipped -from this capital to all parts of the world, and may be found, it is -said, on the private desk of every crowned head in Europe. Large -shipments are made every year, also, to Japan and the Orient. Thousands -of men and girls are employed in this industry, the value of which, in -the export trade alone, amounts to over $30,000,000 a year. - -The Province has but one harbor of any importance, the Bay of Havana, -located near the center of the north coast. It covers several square -miles, and although the entrance between the promontory of Morro and the -Punta is only a few hundred yards across, the channel is deep, perfectly -protected, and leads to an anchorage sufficient for large fleets of -vessels. The shore portions of the main body of the harbor were rather -shallow in early times, but during recent years have been well dredged -up to the edge of the surrounding wharves, thus reclaiming a large -amount of valuable land, and greatly increasing the capacity of the Bay -for shipping purposes. - -Since the inauguration of the Republic in 1902, a series of large, -modern, perfectly equipped piers, built of concrete and iron, have been -extended out from the shore line of the western side of the bay, so that -the largest ships may now discharge and take on cargoes, eliminating -thus, to a great extent, the custom of lightering which prevailed only a -few years ago. Owing to the fact that nearly all the principal railroad -systems of Cuba radiate from the Capital, each with a terminal system -connecting with the wharves, the transportation facilities of this port -are superior to any others in Cuba. - -Steam and sail vessels are leaving Havana for different parts of the -world every day in the year, and it is a fact of which the Republic has -reason to be proud, that under normal conditions, or up to the beginning -of the great war, a greater amount of tonnage entered and left the -Harbor of Havana than that of any other city of the Western hemisphere, -with the exception of New York. Dredging is still going on with new -wharves in process of construction and projected, so that today frontage -on the bay is valuable and hard to secure at any price. - -Owing to its excellent transportation facilities and to the local market -furnished by the City of Havana itself, the growing of fruits and -vegetables, within a radius of one hundred miles from the capital, has -proved more profitable than in other parts of the Island. - -Although several small streams flow to the north and south of the -dividing ridge, passing through the center of the Island, none of them, -either in length or depth, could well be termed rivers. - -The Almandares, that has its origin in a group of magnificent springs -near the western center of the Province, meanders through a -comparatively level valley, emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, some three -miles west of Havana Harbor. The mouth of this stream, with a depth of -twelve or fourteen feet, accommodates schooners that come for sand and -cement at the factory. - -The Vento Springs, already referred to, are a most valuable asset of the -City of Havana, since the abundant flow of water, that through skilful -engineering has been conveyed some eight miles into the City, is of -excellent quality. The quantity of water, with economy, is sufficient, -according to engineering estimates, for a city of one or two millions. - -In the latter part of the 16th century the Italian engineer Antonelli -cut several ditches across the intercepting ridges and brought water -from the Almandares River into the city of Havana, not only for domestic -purposes but in sufficient quantity to supply the ships that dropped -into port on their long voyages between Spain and the eastern coast of -Mexico. - -On November 7, 1887, the famous Spanish engineer D. Francisco Albear y -Lara completed the present aqueduct and system of water works by which -the springs of Vento are made to contribute to the present Havana, with -its 360,000 inhabitants, a supply of excellent drinking water, although -only a small portion of the flow is utilized. - -Owing to the peculiar coral and soft limestone formation on which the -soil of this province has been deposited, numerous lagoons and rivers -flow beneath the surface at various depths, ranging from 30 to 300 feet. -These, when found and tapped, furnish an abundance of splendid fresh -water, seldom contaminated with objectionable mineral matter. At the -Experimental Station at Santiago tiago de las Vegas, a magnificent -spring of water was discovered at a little over one hundred feet in -depth. - -Other springs have formed a shallow lagoon just south of the city of -Caimito, the exit from which is furnished by a small swift running -stream, that after a surface flow of five or six miles suddenly plunges -down into the earth some forty feet or more, disappearing entirely from -view and never reappearing, as far as is known. Like many other streams -of this nature, it may come to the surface in the salt waters of the -Caribbean, off the south coast. - -The disappearance of this river takes place within a hundred yards of -the railroad station, in the town of San Antonio de los Banos, and -furnishes rather an interesting sight for the tourist who is not -familiar with this peculiar phenomenon. - -Although the City of Havana is considered one of the most delightful -winter resorts in the Western Hemisphere, there are many who claim, and -with reason perhaps, that the Capital has many advantages also as a -place in which to spend the summer. Many visitors from the Gulf States -in summer have been loath to leave Cuba. - -The mean annual temperature of Havana varies only twelve degrees -throughout the year. During the winter the mercury plays between the two -extremes of 58 and 78 degrees, with an average of about 70. During the -summer the temperature varies from 75 to 88 degrees, although there are -occasional records where the mercury has reached 92 degrees. Even at -this temperature, however, no great inconvenience is experienced, since -the cool, strong, northeast winds, that blow from the Atlantic, straight -across the Island, sweep into the Caribbean the overheated atmosphere -that otherwise would hang over the land as it does in the interior of -large continents, even in latitudes as high as northern Canada. - -This continual strong current of air, that blows from the Atlantic -during at least 300 days in the year, with its healthful, bracing -influence, tempers the heat of the sun that in latitude 22 is directly -overhead, and probably prevents sun strokes and heat prostrations, -which are absolutely unknown in Havana at any time of the year. - -During the first Government of Intervention, American soldiers in the -months of July and August, 1900, put shingled roofs on barracks and -quarters built at Camp Columbia, in the suburbs of Havana, without the -slightest discomfort. Officers who questioned the men with more or less -anxiety, since they were not accustomed to the tropics, were laughed at -for their fears, the soldiers declaring that, “although the sun was a -little hot, the breeze was fine, and they didn’t feel any heat.” Of the -thousands of horses and mules brought from Kentucky and Missouri not one -has ever fallen, or suffered from heat prostration in the Island of -Cuba. - -The nights are invariably cool, so much so that even in July and August, -during the early morning hours, a light covering is not uncomfortable. -There is every reason to believe that in the near future summer resorts -will be successfully established on many of the elevated plateaus and -mountainous parks in various sections of the Island. - -The Province of Havana, even during the times of Spanish rule, had three -or four fine military drives radiating to the south and west of the -Capital. Since the inauguration of the Republic, these highways, shaded -with the evergreen laurel, the almendra, flamboyant and many varieties -of palm, including the royal and the cocoanut, have been converted into -magnificent automobile drives, to which have been added many kilometers -of splendidly paved roads known as carreteras, which connect the towns -and villages of the interior with each other as well as the capital with -the principal cities of other sections of Cuba. - -Along these highways every three or four miles, are found road repair -stations supported by the Department of Public Works, in which laborers -to whom the keeping up of the road is assigned, live, and which shelter -the necessary rollers and road builders under their direction. These -stations are well built, well kept, and sometimes rather picturesque in -appearance. Their presence should be a guarantee of the permanence and -extension of good road-building in Cuba. - -The political, social and commercial heart of the Republic of Cuba -centers in the city of Havana, hence the province shares more directly -in the national life and prosperity than any other. Cables, wireless -stations and passenger ships of various lines coming and going every day -in the year, maintain constant touch with outside world centers. - -The Presidency, the various departments of the Federal Government, the -Army, Navy, higher Courts, Congress and Universities all pursue their -activities at the capital. The surrounding province, therefore, although -the smallest of the Island, will probably always remain the most -important political division of the Republic. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO - - -Topographically, the Province of Pinar del Rio is perhaps the most -picturesquely beautiful in the Island. Owing also to its variety of -soils, mahogany red, jet black, mulatto or brown, and the grey sands of -the south and west, Pinar del Rio offers marvellous opportunities for -many agricultural industries. Tobacco, of which it produces over -$30,000,000 worth annually, has always been the most important product -of this section of Cuba. - -This Province, with its area of 5,764 square miles, owing to the fact, -perhaps, that it lay west of Havana, the capital, and thus outside of -the line of traffic and settlement that began in the eastern end of the -Island, has played historically and politically a comparatively small -part in the story of the Pearl of the Antilles. Its capital, Pinar del -Rio, located about one hundred and twenty-five miles west of Havana, on -the Western Railroad, was founded in 1776, and claims today a population -of 12,000 people. - -The delightful aroma and flavor of the tobacco grown in the section of -which this city is the center, and whose quality has been equaled in no -other place, has rendered this province, in one way at least, famous -throughout the entire civilized world. - -The topography of the province is more distinctly marked than that of -any other in Cuba. The greater part of the surface, including the entire -southern half, together with the coast plains between the mountains and -the Gulf of Mexico, is quite level. Rising almost abruptly from the flat -surface, we have the western terminus of the great central chain of -mountains that forms the backbone of the Island. This begins near the -shores of Guadiana Bay and extends in a northeasterly direction -throughout almost the entire length of the Province. The main or central -ridge of the Pinar del Rio system is known as the Sierra de Los Organos, -or Organ Mountains, owing probably to the fact that the sides of these -mountains, in many places, form great perpendicular fluted columns, -whose giant organ like shafts reach upward for hundreds of feet. - -From this western terminal point the mountains rapidly widen out like an -arrow head, so that between San Juan y Martinez on the south, and Malos -Aguas on the north, the foot hills approach close to both coasts. On the -south, however, they quickly recede towards the Capital, some twenty -miles north, whence they continue throughout the northern center of the -Province in a line more or less direct, leaving the southern half a -great, broad level plain. - -On the north coast, from the harbor of San Gayetano east, the mountains -with their adjacent foothills follow more closely the shore line, until -at Bahia Honda, sixty miles west of the city of Havana, they come almost -down to the head of the harbor, gradually receding a little from this -point east, until the chain disappears some ten miles west of the -boundary line that separates Pinar del Rio from Havana. - -Strange as it may seem, nature in her mysterious caprice has twice -repeated the form of a shoe at separate points in the outline of the -south coast of Cuba. The first, known as the Peninsula of the Zapata, -with its definitely formed heel and toe, is in the Province of Santa -Clara; and again a second perfect shoe; that resembles with its high -heel set well forward a slightly exaggerated type of the shoe so popular -with the women of Cuba and all Latin American countries, forms the -extreme western terminus of the Island and is almost separated from the -mainland by a chain of shallow lakes. It extends from Cape Francis on -the east to Cape San Antonio, some seventy-five miles west, with an -average width of only about ten miles. Just in front of the heel we have -the indentation known as the Bay of Corrientes, while on the opposite -side, or top of the foot, lies the quiet and protected Bay of Guadiana. -The lighthouse of Cape San Antonio is located on the extreme western -point. From the toe to the heel, following the arch of the foot for -forty miles, runs a low range of hills that introduce the mountain -system of Cuba, developing later into the great central chain that -continues to the other end of the Island. - -Between the City of Pinar del Rio and Vinales, the range is broken up -into three parallel ridges, the central one composed of limestone, while -the other are of slates, schists and sand. The highest peak, known as -the Pan de Guajaibon, has an altitude that has been variously estimated -from 2500 to 3,000 feet. It rises abruptly from the narrow plain of the -north coast, about eight miles, southwest of the harbor of Bahia Honda, -and is difficult of ascent. The various parks, plateaus and circular -basins or sumideros, often of large extent, with subterranean exits, -form strangely picturesque spots that burst on the traveler, mounted on -his sturdy sure footed pony, unexpectedly, and if a lover of scenery he -will leave with sincere regret. - -One of these charming valleys, known as Vinales, lies between two -prominent ridges, about twenty miles north of the City of Pinar del Rio, -and is in many respects the most glorious bit of scenery in all the West -Indies. A splendid macadamized automobile drive winds from the capital -up along the foot hills to the crest of the ridge, whence it descends, -crosses the valley, cuts through the northernmost ridge, and continues -on to La Esperanza, on the north shore of the Province. - -[Illustration: THE VINALES VALLEY - -A scene in the heart of the wonderland of Pinar del Rio, which -innumerable tourists have declared second to no other spot in the world -in romantic beauty and fascinating charm. The combination of cliffs and -plain, with the rich coloring of tropical flora, is so bewildering as to -create the illusion of a stage-setting made for scenic effect by some -master artist.] - -Rex Beach, the novelist, writer and traveler, looked down from his auto -into the valley for the first time in 1916. Stopping the machine -suddenly, he jumped to the ground and stood spellbound, looking down -into that beautiful basin, over a thousand feet below. After a -moment’s pause he exclaimed: “I have visited every spot of interest from -northern Alaska to Panama, and traveled through many countries, but -never before in my life have I met anything so picturesquely, -dramatically beautiful as this valley, this dream garden that lies at -our feet. There is nothing like it in the Western Hemisphere, probably -not in all the world.” - -The length of the basin is not over twenty miles while its width varies -from three to ten. The floor is level, covered with rich waving grass, -watered by a little stream, that comes meandering through the valley, -dives beneath a mountain range, afterwards to reappear from a -grotto-like opening on the northern side, beyond the valley, whence its -waters eventually find their home in the Gulf of Mexico. - -The peculiar, almost unreal, indentations of the northern ridge are -silhouetted so vividly against the sky above that from the southern -shore of the valley one is inclined at times to believe them -fantastically formed clouds. The remarkable feature, however, of Vinales -lies in the peculiar round-topped mountains that rise abruptly from the -level surface below, and project themselves perpendicularly into the -air, to a height varying from 1,200 to 2,000 feet. - -Unique imposing formations, resulting from millions of years of tropical -rains and rock erosion, are covered with dense forests of strange palms -and thousands of rare plants, whose varied foliage seems to be peculiar -to this isolated spot in the western central part of Pinar del Rio. -These singular dome-like lomas of Vinales, looming up so unexpectedly -from the valley below, are usually accessible from one side, although -but very few people seem to have taken the trouble to climb to their -summits. All of these mountains and foothills, composed of limestone -formations, are honeycombed with caves, some of them of rare beauty. - -Shortly after the founding of the Republic, a group of men composed -mostly of naturalists and scientists, representing the Smithsonian and -like institutions in the United States, together with several Cuban -enthusiasts in the study of nature, spent several months studying the -fauna and flora of the Vinales Valley. In fact they rambled and worked -through most of the line of foothills that traverse Pinar del Rio -between its central ridges and the Gulf of Mexico. Some of the party -were specialists in tertiary fossils, others in the myriad varieties of -submarine life. These latter spent considerable time studying the -various species of radiata, mollusca, crustacea and allied forms of life -on the inner side of the long coral barrier reef which parallels the -shore of the province of Pinar del Rio, from Bahia Honda to Cape San -Antonio. Many new varieties of the snail family, also, were discovered -and studied. - -In this connection it may be stated that a very rare variety of the palm -family, the Microoyco Calocoma, commonly called the Cork Palm, found -only in Pinar del Rio, seems, owing perhaps to some unfavorable change -in climate or surrounding conditions, to be disappearing from earth. Not -more than seventy specimens are known to exist and these are all growing -in an isolated spot in the mountains back of Consolacion del Sur. -Several of them have been transplanted to the grounds of the Government -Experimental Station for study and care. One also has been removed to -the grounds of the President’s home at El Chico. The palms are not tall, -none reaching a height of more than twenty feet, with a diameter of -perhaps eight inches. - -This rare palm is one of those miraculous survivals of the carboniferous -age that by some strange protecting influence have survived all the -great seismic upheaval and geological changes wrought on the earth’s -surface during the millions of years since the epoch, when this and -similar varieties of carboniferous plants were the kings of the -vegetable world. Their dead forms are frequently found imprinted in the -coal fields of Pennsylvania and Brazil, but only in Cuba has this -family of ancient palms persisted, mute survival of an antiquity that -probably antedates any other living thing on earth. So slow is the -growth of this remarkable plant, that only one crown of leaves appears -each year. By simply counting the circles of scars left by the fallen -leaves, it is clearly demonstrated that many of these remnants of a -remote geological past were living in the mountains of Pinar del Rio -long before Columbus dreamed of another continent. Some of them are -today over a thousand years old, and may have antedated the fall of -Rome, if not the birth of Christ on earth. - -A strange variety of indigenous wild legumes, belonging probably to the -cow-pea tribe, is found growing luxuriantly in the low sandy soil of the -southwestern coast. The vine forms a splendid cover crop of which cattle -are very fond, while the peas, although small, are delicious eating. -Plants of the lily family are found in great quantities in some of the -fresh water lagoons of this Province, the ashes of which furnish 60% of -high-grade potash. - -Back in the mountains of Pinar del Rio, an exploring party from the -Experimental Station came across, most unexpectedly, a little group of -five immense black walnut trees. No one knows whence came the seed from -which they sprung, since the district has never been settled, and the -black walnut is not known in any other part of the Island. It is quite -probable that many, if not all, of the forest trees of a commercial -value in the Gulf States, and perhaps further north, would thrive in -Cuba if planted there. - -There is much fine, valuable hard-wood timber in the mountain ranges of -Pinar del Rio, between Vinales and Bahia Honda, but lack of facility for -the removal to the coast will probably cause it to remain unmolested for -some years to come. - -The extreme length of Pinar del Rio, from southwest to northeast, in a -straight line, is nearly two hundred miles, while its average width is -fifty. The rivers and streams all have their sources in the central -divide, and flow to the north and south, emptying into the Gulf of -Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. None of these, of course, are available -for navigation more than a few miles up from their mouths, and while -serving as drainage streams during the rainy season, many of them, -unfortunately, cease to flow during the dry months of February and -March. - -Some of them, with sources in large springs, back in the mountains, -could be used very advantageously, with small expense, for irrigation -purposes, thus rendering adjoining lands, especially in the tobacco and -vegetable district, doubly valuable. With the control of the water -supply, the profit to be made from these lands, on which three or four -crops may be gathered a year, would seem almost incredible, especially -if compared with the returns of similar lands in the United States. - -As an illustration, in any of the rich sandy soils bordering streams -like the Rio Hondo or Las Cabezas of the south coast, or the Manimani or -the Mulata of the north coast, whose waters are always available for -irrigation purposes, in January, February or March corn and cow peas may -be planted on the same ground in the early spring. Crops from these may -be gathered in late May or June, and the same land planted in carita -beans, sweet potatoes or squash, that may be removed in September, -leaving the field to be again planted in October with tobacco, peanuts, -yuca, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, egg plants or okra, that when -gathered in January and February will bring splendid returns in either -the local markets of Havana, or the early spring markets of the Atlantic -and Gulf Coasts of the United States. - -The short streams flowing from the mountain chains along the north coast -are the Mariel, the Manimani, the Mulata, the San Marcos, the Guacamayo, -the Caimito and Mantua, and the Rio Salado. Returning on the south coast -we have the Cabeza, the Guama, Ovas, Hondo, Herradura, San Diego, Los -Palacios, Bacuranabo, Sabanal and the Bayale. - -The northern coast of Pinar del Rio is fortunate in having three of the -finest harbors of Cuba, bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. First, the -beautiful Bay of Mariel, located about 30 miles west of Havana, has a -narrow, deep entrance with a lighthouse on the eastern point, and the -Government Quarantine Station for foreign ships on the western side at -the entrance. This Bay rapidly widens out into a large deep basin, three -miles in length from north to south, with an average width of perhaps a -mile, together with several prolongations towards the west, all -furnishing excellent anchorage and securely protected against any -possible weather. - -The shores of Mariel are beautiful. Palm covered bluffs several hundred -feet in height rise almost abruptly from the eastern side of the Bay. On -top of this promontory or plateau is located a fine two-story building, -erected in 1905 as a club house, but occupied at the present time by -Cuba’s Naval Academy. The view from the crest over the surrounding -country, with its tall mountains in the distance, its forest covered -foothills and great valleys planted in sugar cane to the south and west, -with the Gulf of Mexico lying off to the north, presents a picture of -rare tropical beauty. - -Between this promontory and the lighthouse a modern cement factory was -built in 1917, turning out at the present time 1,000 barrels of Portland -Cement per day, while near the head of the Bay, a narrow gauge railroad, -bringing asphalt from back in the foothills, terminates alongside the -shipping wharf. - -The quaint little fishing village of Mariel is located on the shore at -the southern end of the Bay. Its inhabitants, although leading rather an -uneventful life, seem quite content to remain, although Havana is less -than thirty miles distant over a splendid automobile drive; one of the -most beautiful in Cuba. The Quarantine Station is splendidly equipped -and always in readiness to take care of any ship’s crew or passengers -that may be detained by orders of the authorities in Havana. Mariel, -owing to its natural beauty and its proximity to Havana, is frequently -visited by President Menocal in his yacht, and furnishes a delightful, -cool resting place for anyone during the summer season. - -Ten or twelve miles further west, we have the Bay of Cabanas, another -perfectly land-locked harbor, whose deep entrance is divided by an -island into two channels. These open out into a wide picturesque expanse -of water, extending east and west for some ten miles or more, with an -average width of two or three. - -On the small island that almost obscures the mouth of the harbor from -the sea, a little old Spanish fort, with its obsolete guns, up to the -present unmolested, bears mute evidence to those times when visits of -pirates, with the equally troublesome corsairs of France and England, -were common, and provision for defense was absolutely necessary. The -village of Cabanas, in order to secure better protection from the danger -mentioned, is located two or three miles back from the eastern end of -the harbor. - -Great fields of sugar cane surround the Bay on all sides. These, of -course, have been greatly extended since the European War and the -increased demand for sugar. A beautiful automobile drive that branches -from the main line or Pinar del Rio road, at Guanajay, passes along the -crest of the ridge of hills back of the Bay of Cabanas, for over ten -miles, giving at almost every turn a new view to this beautiful sheet of -water. Once known to the outside world, this magnificent Bay of Cabanas -would soon become a popular resort for private yachts that spend the -winter season in tropical waters. - -Fifteen miles further west, this same winding, hill-climbing, -macadamized Government driveway, reaches another splendid harbor known -as Bahia Honda, or Deep Bay. Like most of the bays of Cuba, the entrance -to this, although comparatively narrow, is deep, and with two range -lights maintained for the purposes of easy access day and night. This -harbor extends back from the Gulf of Mexico some seven or eight miles, -with an average width of three or four, furnishing good anchorage for -ships of any draught. - -Bahia Honda was selected by the United States Government in 1902, as a -coaling station, a large body of land on the western shore being -reserved for that purpose. Owing, however, to the completion of the -Panama Canal later, and to the consequent advantages of having a naval -station closer to the line of maritime travel, between Panama and the -Atlantic Coast, Bahia Honda was surrendered to the Government of Cuba -and Guantanamo became the principal United States Naval Station for the -West Indies. - -The harbor of Bahia Honda, dotted with islands, and with comparatively -high lands extending all along its western and southern shores, offers -the same advantages, not alone for an extensive commerce, but as a -rendezvous for foreign yachts and pleasure craft, during the closed -season or winter months of the north. The little village bearing the -same name, two miles back from the Bay, is reached by a branch from the -main driveway connecting Bahia Honda with Havana and intermediate -cities. - -The Bay of La Esperanza, one hundred miles west of Havana, is inclosed -by the long chain of islands and coral reefs known as the “Colorados,” -that lie some eight or ten miles off the mainland, and protect -three-fourths of the shore of Pinar del Rio from the heavy waves of the -Gulf of Mexico. The entrance to this and adjacent bays is through narrow -breaks in the barrier reef. Its waters have an average depth of only two -or three fathoms; nevertheless considerable amounts of copper ore are -shipped from the mines some fifteen miles back in the mountains during -all seasons of the year. - -Along the western shore of the main body of this Province, we have the -harbors of Dimas and Mantua. Like the Esperanza, they are comparatively -shallow bays, entered through breaks in the Colorado Reefs, but still -available for moderate draft vessels in all seasons of the year. - -In the angle of the ankle, formed by the shoe-like extension of the -Province of Pinar del Rio, we have a beautiful wide indentation of the -coast known as Guardiana Bay. On the shores, some ten years ago, was -located a Canadian colony, but, owing to its isolation, and lack of -transportation of all kinds, it has since been practically abandoned. -This settlement, like the Isle of Pines, had little to recommend it -except its beautiful climate and its perfect immunity from the cares and -troubles of the outside world. - -Aside from wide, deep indentations from the sea, and shallow landing -places at the mouths of rivers, the south coast of Pinar del Rio has -nothing to offer in the shape of harbors. Nevertheless, owing to the -presence of long lines of outlying keys, and to the fact that northerly -winds produce only smooth water off these shores, there is considerable -local traffic carried on between various places on the south coast and -Batabano, whence connection with Havana is secured by rail. A large part -of the charcoal used in the capital is cut from the low lying forests -that cover almost the entire length of Pinar del Rio’s south coast. - -Across the ankle-like connection between the mainland and the peninsula -forming the western extremity of the Island a depression runs from -Guardiana Bay on the west to the Bay of Cortez on the east. Numerous -fresh water lagoons or inland lakes lie so close that a small amount of -dredging would cut a canal from one shore to the other, and save thus -over a hundred miles of travel for local coasting vessels. At the -present time these lakes, with their rich growth of aquatic plants, -furnish a retreat during the winter season for many varieties of wild -ducks, which the game laws of Cuba are endeavoring to protect. Wild deer -are also very plentiful throughout the greater part of the Province, -especially in the mountainous districts and in the jungles of the south -coast. - -The capital, Pinar del Rio, is a modern and rather attractive little -city of some 12,000 inhabitants, located on a gentle rise of ground in -the western center of the Province. Immediately surrounding it is the -celebrated tobacco district known as the Vuelta Abajo, or Lower Turn, so -called, perhaps, owing to the fact that the coast line of this section -recedes rapidly towards the south and west. - -The choice lands of this locality cover a relatively small area, not -over thirty miles from east to west and less than half that distance -from north to south. And even within this circumscribed area, the best -tobacco is grown only in little vegas, or oases, whose soil seems to -contain mineral elements the character of which has never been -discovered, but that nevertheless give to the plant a peculiarly -delightful aroma and flavor, not known to the tobacco of any other part -of the world. As a result, the price of these little vegas, so favored -by Nature, is very high, often running into thousands of dollars per -acre. - -Pinar del Rio is connected with Havana by the Western Railway, that -traverses almost the entire length of the Province, terminating at the -present time at the town of Guane within thirty miles of Guardiana Bay. -This railroad furnishes transportation for the great level plains, -together with the fertile foot hills that occupy the southern half of -the Province. - -An extension of the line has been granted and contracts signed carrying -it around the western terminus of the Organ Mountains, whence it will -follow the line of the north shore, returning east to Havana. This line -when completed will furnish transportation to the entire length of the -coast lands bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. - -Along the Western Road are a number of prosperous little cities or -villages, with populations varying from two to eight thousand, including -Artemisa, Candelaria, San Cristobal, Taco-Taco, Los Palacios, -Herradura, Consolacion del Sur, Ovas, etc., all of which are located -along the foothills, and in the tobacco district is known as the Partido -or Semi Vuelta. Beyond Pinar del Rio, we have San Luis, Martinez and -Guane, which claim to be within the charmed zone of Vuelta Abajo. - -Tobacco is also grown around the little town of Vinales, nestling in the -center of that valley, and in nearly all of the foothills that border -the north coast; hence the tobacco industry in this end of the Island, -greatly exceeds in value, that of sugar cane, which up to the beginning -of the great war, was grown only in the basins of rich heavy soil -surrounding the harbors of Mariel, Cabanas and Bahia Honda. There are -seven ingenios or sugar mills within the limits of this province that -produced together 645,000 bags of sugar in 1918. - -The growing of fruits and vegetables, especially since the birth of the -Republic, was introduced into Pinar del Rio as an industry by Americans, -many of whom settled along the line of the Western Road, many of these, -taking advantage of the rich sandy loams between the railroad line and -the Organ Mountains, have built up a really important industry not -before known to Cuba. - -An American colony was started at Herradura, one hundred miles west of -Havana in 1902. Unfortunately, the inhabitants of the little settlement -gave nearly all of their capital and energy to the planting of citrus -fruit groves, which as a whole, have rather disappointed their owners. -This was not because the growing of citrus fruit cannot be successfully -carried on in Pinar del Rio, but was in most instances owing to the fact -that the areas planted were very much larger than the available help -could possibly handle and care for intelligently; hence many groves, -lacking this care, have lapsed into grazing lands, whence they came. - -The growing of vegetables, green peppers, tomatoes, egg plants and -beans, especially where farms were located near enough to streams to -provide irrigation during the months of January, February and March, -has proven very profitable, and within the near future will undoubtedly -be still further extended. - -In the early part of the 19th century, and for that matter, up to the -abolition of slavery in 1878, the production of coffee in the -mountainous districts of Pinar del Rio was the chief industry in the -Province. Beautiful estates, the ruins of which are frequently scattered -along the line of the Organ Mountains, especially in that section of the -range included between San Cristobal and Bahia Honda, and splendid -country homes with approaches cut from the main highways of travel up -into these delightful picturesque retreats, were occupied during the -summer months by prominent citizens of Havana, who found the growing of -coffee both profitable and agreeable. The coffee trees still grow, -although uncared for, and many thousand of pounds are still brought out -of this almost forgotten district, on mule back, to be sold to the -country groceries of Bahia Honda and San Cristobal, where the green -beans bring twenty dollars per hundred weight. - -With the introduction of colonists from the Canary Islands, Italy, and -other countries who love the fresh air of the mountains, and who do not -object to the isolation which naturally follows a residence in remote -sections, there is every reason to believe that the coffee industry will -again be resumed. The settlement of these hills and vales with families -whose children can assist in the picking of berries, will make the -growing of coffee a great success. - -Until 1913 the mining interests of Pinar del Rio were practically -ignored, in spite of the fact that several excavations or shafts, that -had been worked many years before, gave evidence of the existence of -copper. It was in this year that Luciano Diaz, formerly Secretary of -Public Works, became interested in the district known as Matahambre. -Competent mining engineers, brought from the United States, assured Mr. -Diaz that his claim was valuable, and merited the investment of -capital. This proved to be true, since the mine has produced high-grade -copper at the rate of about five million dollars per year since the date -of its opening. - -Valuable deposits of manganese, too, have been recently discovered in -the western end of the province, and will undoubtedly be developed in -the near future. Excellent iron ore is found in the same chain, west of -the capital, but owing to the difficulties of transportation, the mines -have never been operated. Asphalt, asbestos and other substances used in -the commercial world, are found at various points along the range, and -await only intelligent direction and capital for their development. - -Although Narciso Lopez, with his unfortunate followers, endeavored to -arouse the people of this Province against the iniquities of Spanish -rule in the year 1852, the revolution had never reached the west until -the winter of 1896, when General Antonio Maceo, with his army of Cuban -veterans, carried the “invasion of the Occident” to its ultimate -objective. After one of the most skilfully conducted campaigns known to -history, he rested for a few weeks in the little town of Mantua, within -a few miles of the extreme western shore of Cuba. - -The crossing of the Trocha, that had been built between the harbor of -Mariel and the south coast, by this invading army, was very distasteful -to General Weyler, who soon filled Pinar del Rio with well armed -regiments and gave Maceo battle for more than a year. Short of -ammunition, and in a section of the country where it was almost -impossible for the expedition to aid him, General Maceo was compelled to -keep up a running fight for many months, and in the Organ Mountains and -in their various spurs toward the north coast were fought some of the -most stubbornly contested engagements of the War of Independence. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -PROVINCE OF MATANZAS - - -Historically the province of Matanzas has played a comparatively -unimportant part in the various events that have influenced the destiny -of the Island. In the early days of conquest, little mention of the -district was made. Grijalva, however, with a small body of men, was the -first of the Spanish conquerors who, pushing his way along the northern -coast of Cuba, reached the harbor now known as Matanzas on October 8, -1518. A very substantial fort of the same excellent style of military -architecture as that seen in Havana, was erected on the western shore of -the Bay of Matanzas to protect the city from invasion, in the middle of -the eighteenth century. - -The province of Matanzas joins Havana on the east and has an area of -3,257 square miles. The surface as a whole is comparatively level, -although the chain of mountains, which forms the backbone of the entire -Island, is represented along the center of Matanzas in a series of low -peaks and foothills sloping away to the northwest corner, in which the -capital, Matanzas, is located on a bay of the same name. - -Across the eastern center of the Province of Matanzas, nature left a -depression that extends from the north coast at Cardenas, almost if not -quite, to the shore of the Caribbean, at the Bay of Cochinos. The -elevation above the sea level is so slight throughout this belt that a -series of fresh water lagoons, swamps and low lands, without natural -drainage of any kind, has rendered the district almost useless for -agriculture and grazing purposes during the rainy season. Between the -months of May and November this section is frequently flooded so that -animals occasionally perish and crops are frequently destroyed. - -To relieve the situation a drainage canal was proposed a few years ago, -that should furnish an artificial exit for the surplus water into the -Bay of Cardenas. The length of the proposed canal was thirty miles, and -work began on the big ditch in 1916. At the present time it is -practically completed, at a cost of approximately five millions of -dollars. Its width varies from sixteen to forty-four meters, carrying an -average depth of one and a half meters, or five feet. - -The possibility of eventually converting this drainage canal into an -avenue of traffic, between the north and the south coasts, furnishing -thus water, or cheap transportation, between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas -and Cienfuegos, or other ports on the south coast, has naturally -appealed to engineers who have studied the terrain. There are no -engineering difficulties that would prevent a canal of this kind from -being converted into a deep ship canal across the Island which would -shorten the distance between New York and Panama by at least two hundred -miles. Steamers bound north from Panama would then cross the Caribbean, -pass through from Cochinos Bay to Cardenas, entering at once the Gulf -Stream, the force of whose current would still further shorten the time -between Panama and Pacific ports on the south, and all Atlantic ports -north of Cuba. The engineering problem could not be more simple, since -it is merely a question of dredging through earth and soft limestone -rock for a distance of seventy-five miles, taking advantage, as does the -present drainage canal, of the Auton River, where it empties into -Cardenas Bay. That such a saving of time and distance will some day be -consummated is more than probable. Not only the economics and benefits -to be derived from such a shortening of miles between local points in -times of peace, but the strategic advantage of the short cut for naval -units in time of war, are more than manifest to any one at all familiar -with the geography of Cuba and the West Indies. Cuba, for commercial and -economical reasons, is deeply interested in the construction of a canal -that would make the Province of Matanzas an intersea gateway, not only -for her own coastwise trade, but for much of the northbound traffic that -in the near future will carry millions of tons of raw material from the -west coast of South America to the great manufacturing centers of the -North Atlantic. - -Running parallel with the north shore, a short series of remarkable -hills rise abruptly from the surrounding level plain to an altitude of a -thousand feet or more. One of these is known as the “Pan de Matanzas,” -whose round, palm covered top may be seen for many miles at sea. Ships -coming from New York usually make this peak above the horizon before any -other part of the Island comes into view. - -The Yumuri River, at some time in the remote geological past cut its way -through these hills and found exit in Matanzas Bay. The valley lying -between two of these parallel ridges, through which the Yumuri flows, -has been rendered famous by Alexander Humboldt, who visiting the spot in -the winter of 1800, traveling over most of South and Central America, -pronounced it the most beautiful valley in the world. No terms of praise -are too great to bestow on the Yumuri; but in truth it must be said that -Humboldt had never seen the Valley of Vinales, one hundred and thirty -miles west, or he would probably have hesitated in bestowing such -superlative praise on the Yumuri. - -Only a few miles south of the Yumuri, another river known as the San -Juan has broken through the ridge which lies along the western shore, -and empties its waters into the bay. Another small stream, the Canima, -pouring its waters into the Bay, a little further east, flows through a -series of limestone cliffs covered with a wealth of tropical forest and -furnishes a source of recreation to visitors and many people of the -capital, who make excursions to the head of navigation in motor -launches. - -The Province has an average length of about 70 miles, with a width from -north to south of fifty miles, and forms a fairly regular parallelogram. -From the center of the coast line a narrow neck of land, known as the -Punta Hicaco, projects out toward the northeast for some fifteen miles, -inclosing the Bay of Cardenas on the west. The outer shore of this strip -of land, known as El Veradero, forms the finest bathing beach in all -Cuba, to which those who do not find it convenient to visit the United -States in summer, can come during the warmer months. - -A chain of islands varying in size from little keys of a half acre to -that of Cayo Romano, seventy miles long, extends from a few miles east -of Punta Hicaco, along the north shore of Cuba to the Harbor of -Nuevitas, a distance of three hundred miles. The Bay of Cardenas, -although large in extent is rather shallow in comparison with most -harbors of Cuba. Extensive dredging, however, has rendered it available -for steamers of 20-foot draft. - -The southern boundary of the Province is formed by the River Gonzalo, -fairly deep throughout half its length, but obstructed by shoals at the -mouth. The upper extension of this stream, known as Hanabana, flows -along the larger part of its eastern boundary. Just south of the Gonzalo -River lies the great Cienaga de Zapato, or Swamp of the Shoe, which -belongs to the Province of Santa Clara. The land along the northern bank -of the river is also low and marshy, with sharp limestone rocks -frequently cropping out on the surface. Of navigable rivers, Matanzas -has really none worthy of mention but with railroads it is quite well -supplied. - -The surface as a whole is slightly rolling and has long been under -cultivation, especially in the production of sugar cane, for which -nearly all of this section is excellently adapted. There are forty sugar -plantations in active operation in Matanzas Province, producing in 1917 -over four million sacks. The cultivation of sugar cane, as in other -provinces, is the chief source of wealth and yields the greatest -revenue. - -In recent years, or since revolutions have practically destroyed the -industries of Yucatan, capital has been attracted to the cultivation of -henequen, and to the extraction of the fibre known as sisal, from which -not only rope and cables are made, but also binding twine, so essential -to the wheat crop of the United States. - -Leaving the city of Cardenas, which promises soon to be another great -sisal center, and traveling west over the automobile drive towards -Matanzas, a perfect panorama of growing henequen is spread out on both -sides of the road as far as the eye can reach. The peculiar bluish green -color of the fields of this valuable textile plant, dotted as they are -with royal palms, produce a fascinating effect as one passes through -league after league of henequen. - -There are many limestone hills, plateaus and plains in Matanzas -Province, whose surface, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, is -especially adapted to the growth and cultivation of henequen, and it is -quite possible that the sisal industry, in a short time, may equal if -not excel in importance the sugar industry of the province. - -Some twenty years ago a complete plant was established in the city of -Matanzas for the manufacture of cables, cordage and binding twine for -the local market. Thousands of acres of barren hillsides south of the -city were planted in henequen at that time, and have since furnished -enough raw material to keep this rope factory going throughout the -entire year. The decortator, or machine by which the sisal is separated -from the pulp of the leaves, is located near the crest of the hill, -about a half a mile back of the factory. From this point down to the -plain below, the green fresh sisal is conveyed by gravity in iron -baskets, where it is received by women and spread out on wire lines to -dry. Twenty-four hours later it is carried into the factory and there -spun into rope of all sizes, from binding twine to the twelve-inch -hawsers. Water was found alongside the factory only a few feet below the -surface, where an underground stream furnishes an inexhaustible supply. - -Several millions were invested in the Matanzas henequen industry, -started by a company of Germans, who recently sold out to local and -foreign capitalists. It is said that the capacity of the plant will be -greatly increased. - -The city of Matanzas, capital of the Province, is spread out over the -side and along the base of the low hill that forms the western shore of -the Bay. Although not possessing the wealth of Havana, the general -appearance of the city, with its substantial stone buildings, gives -every evidence of prosperity and comfort. Its population numbers -approximately 40,000, the greater part of whom are interested in sugar, -henequen and other local industries of the section. - -Matanzas was first settled in 1693, but the modern city is laid out with -wide streets, the oldest of which as usual radiate from the central -plaza or city park, a quaint square ornamented with oriental palms and -tropical flowers. The most pretentious drive of this provincial capital, -however, has been built along the shore of the bay, a beautiful wide -avenue lined with laurels and with statues of various local heroes, -which add greatly to its interest. The view from the opposite side of -the bay is excelled only by that of Havana from the heights of Cabanas. - -Just back of the City, or rather on the edge of its northwestern -boundary, perched on the front of a commanding promontory known as La -Loma de Monserrate, is located a quaint little cathedral dedicated to -the Virgin of El Cobre. The altar and background of the nave are -constructed of cork, brought from Spain for that purpose many years ago. -From the crest of this flat topped hill, protected on the north by a -stone wall, with spacious seats of the same material, under the shade of -laurel trees, the traveller has spread before him a beautiful view -of the Yumuri Valley, over which Humboldt gazed with admiration some -hundred years ago. - -[Illustration: SAN JUAN RIVER, MATANZAS - -Second only to Havana itself on the northern coast of Cuba is the great -commercial and residence city of Matanzas. Instead of standing upon the -shore of a land-locked bay, however, Matanzas is built on the banks of -the San Juan River, a broad, deep stream affording admirable facilities -for navigation, and lined for a considerable distance partly with -handsome houses and business buildings and partly with busy docks and -wharves, thronged with vessels of all descriptions.] - -Leading from the Capital are several very beautiful automobile drives; -one reaching out towards the north and rounding the eastern terminus of -the Yumuri Valley, gives a beautiful view of that charming basin as it -stretches away toward the west. - -Another delightful drive sweeps along the south shore towards Cardenas. -A few miles from Matanzas, however, a sharp turn to the right leads up -on to the summit of the ridge south of Matanzas. The drive passes -through the long stretches of henequen fields whose plants furnish the -fibre to the factory near the railway station. - -On the crest of the plateau, under the shade of a small grove of trees, -is found an odd little building that serves as the entrance to the -Bellamar Caves. This famous underground resort is quite well known to -tourists who visit Cuba in the winter season. Visitors are lowered by -means of an elevator to a depth considerably below the level of the sea, -after which guides take the party in charge and lead the way through -several miles of interesting underground passages, ornamented with -stalactites, stalagmites and other beautiful formations peculiar to -those old time waterways that forced their tortuous channels through the -bowels of the earth thousands of years ago. - -Many of these formations are of a peculiar pearl white with a delicate -texture that resembles Parian marble and gives a metal-like ring when -struck. The entire cave is lighted with electricity and entrance to the -more inaccessible spots has been rendered possible through artificial -steps and balustrades. The city of Matanzas furnished an interesting and -pleasant spot in which the tourist can spend a few days agreeably. - -The harbor of Matanzas is a wide mouthed roadstead, cutting back from -the Atlantic some five or six miles with a width varying from three to -four. Dredging within recent years has greatly improved the port, -although with deep draft vessels, lightering is still necessary to -convey freight from the warehouses out to the various places of -anchorage. - -[Illustration: CITY HALL AND PLAZA, CARDENAS] - -The view of the City, covering the slopes of the hills on the west as -you enter the bay, is very attractive. Since the Province of Matanzas -has no harbors on the south coast, nearly all the sugar produced in her -forty big mills is shipped from either Matanzas or Cardenas, both of -which are connected with railroads that tap the various agricultural -sections lying south of them. - -The second city of the Province, Cardenas, is located on Cardenas Bay, a -large and well protected harbor thirty miles east of Matanzas. In -comparison with most of the harbors, however, it is comparatively -shallow, needing a good deal of dredging to make it available for deep -draft vessels. Cardenas, like Matanzas, is comparatively modern, with -wide streets, regularly laid out. The old square, with its statue of -Columbus, has been recently remodeled at considerable cost. - -The first serious indication of revolt on the part of the Cuban people -against the rule of Spain, was started here by General Narciso Lopez, -who landed at Cardenas with 600 men, mostly Americans from New Orleans, -on May 19, 1850. Within a few hours they had captured the Spanish -garrison and made prisoners of Governor Serrute and several of his -officials. The city was theirs, but to the unspeakable chagrin of -General Lopez, only one man came to his aid on Cuban soil, and before -nightfall, after defeating a Spanish column sent to oppose him, the -disappointed revolutionist abandoned the city, and with his followers -embarked for Key West. - -It was on May 11, 1898, that Cardenas Bay became the scene of an -engagement between blockading vessels of the United States fleet and the -Spanish batteries, in which Ensign Worth Badgley was killed, he being -the first officer to lose his life in the war. - -The exportation of sugar from the rich lands tributary to this bay has -always given Cardenas importance as a shipping point and rendered it, -for a city of only 30,000, quite a wealthy and prosperous community. -Many beautiful residences have been built along its stately avenues, and -the great henequen industry recently started in the great fields to the -west will add, undoubtedly, to the wealth of the locality. Splendid -stone warehouses line the shore for a mile or more, with a capacity -sufficient to hold in storage while necessary the enormous crop of sugar -that is produced in the province. - -The presence of naphtha and many surface indications of oil deposits -south and east of the City of Cardenas have rendered that section -attractive as a field of exploration. Up to the present time, however, -no paying wells have been found, although many expert oil men are still -confident that the entire district from Cardenas to Itabo, and even -further east, will some day prove a valuable field for petroleum -products. - -Midway between Cardenas and the City of Matanzas, just north of the -beautiful highway connecting these two cities, rises a range of low -serpentine hills, whose altitude is approximately five hundred feet. -These peculiarly symmetrical, round, loaf-like elevations above the -level surface of the surrounding country, are covered with a short -scrubby growth of thorny brush, and several varieties of maguey, of the -century plant family. Nothing else will grow on these serpentine hills; -hence in most respects they are decidedly unattractive. Since the -beginning of the international war, however, and the great demand for -chrome, some local mineralogists noted that little streams and rivulets -running down these hills left deposits of a peculiar black, glistening -sand. This sand, when analyzed, proved to come from the erosion of -chromite, the mineral so much in demand by the smelting industry of the -United States for hardening steel. In the spring of 1918 two well-known -mining engineers and geologists, with instructions from Washington, -visited several of these serpentine hills and found valuable deposits of -chromite that will probably furnish a very profitable source of this -much sought-for mineral and add greatly to the mining industry of this -province. - -During the War of Independence, Generals Antonio Maceo and Maximo Gomez -led the invading columns of the Revolutionary Army into this Province -for the first time, in the fall of 1896. The great beds of dead leaves -lying between rows of cane, dried by the November winds, formed useful -material for the insurgent armies. The torch once applied to this vast -tinder box, with the prevailing easterly winds, all Matanzas was aflame. -Under cover of the great canopy of smoke which rose over the land, the -invading armies of the Occident swept rapidly on through the Province, -fighting only when compelled to, since the object of the invasion was to -carry the war into Havana and Pinar del Rio, where Revolution had never -before been known. - -The vast cane fields that today line the railroad tracks on both sides, -bear no evidence of the ravages of Revolution, while handsome modern -mills, many of which have been erected since the beginning of the great -European War of 1914, have helped to feed the world with sugar that -could be obtained in sufficient quantities in no other place. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -PROVINCE OF SANTA CLARA - - -Probably in no part of Cuba is the topography more varied or the scenery -more beautiful than in the Province of Santa Clara, with its area of -8,250 square miles. Mountain, valley, table land and plain seem to be -thrown together in this, the central section of the Island, in reckless -yet picturesque confusion. The main system of mountains, extending -throughout the entire length of Cuba, disappears and reappears along the -northern coast of Santa Clara, thus permitting easy communication -between her rich central plains, covered with sugar estates, and her -harbors on the coast. - -In the southwestern center of this province, we have another group of -mountains, foot hills and fertile valleys, in which are located some of -the old coffee estates of slavery days, established at the close of the -18th century, shortly after the negro uprising in Santo Domingo. These -cafetales, in the early half of the following century, made Cuban coffee -famous throughout the world. Nestling within this mountain cradle lies -the city of Trinidad, founded by Diego Velasquez in January, 1514. The -presence of gold, which the Indians panned from the waters of the Arimo -River, rendered Trinidad an important center for the early Spanish -conquerors during the first years of Cuban history. Sancti Spiritus, -lying on the edge of a fertile plateau, some forty-five miles to the -northeast, was founded a few months later. - -Gold was the god of the Spanish conquerors, and to secure it was their -chief aim and ambition. Its discovery in this section of Santa Clara -brought hope to them and despair to the Indians, on whom the former -depended for labor with which to dig this precious metal from the earth. -Velasquez found the natives of Trinidad, like those of Oriente, a -gentle, confiding people, who asked only permission to live as they had -always done; tilling the soil, fishing, visiting and dancing, at which -they were most clever, an ideal and harmless life, suited to their -tastes. They grew corn, sweet potatoes, tobacco and yucca, from which -they made their cazaba bread, still used by the country people of the -present day. The Spaniards, however, soon changed this earthly dream of -ease and joy into one of arduous and repugnant toil, rather than to -submit to which, many of them committed suicide by poison and by -drowning. - -Velasquez, enthusiastic over the locality of his newly founded city, -Trinidad, despatched at once one of his caravels to La Espanola in Santo -Domingo, with orders to bring back cattle, mares and other material -necessary to further the interests of the new settlement. And so it came -to pass that this section of southern Santa Clara, with its fertile -lands, beautiful scenery and promise of gold, played an important part -in the early colonization of the Island. - -The desire to accumulate wealth through the toil of the unhappy Indians, -of whom the Spaniards made slaves, tempted even Las Casas, the great -defender of the Cuban aborigines, to accept assignment of them as a gift -from the crown, so that he might share something of the prosperity of -the early conquerors. It is reported that Las Casas repented this -departure from the path of rectitude and afterwards was led to indorse -the importation of African slaves in order to save the Cuban Indians -from extermination. - -It was on the banks of the beautiful Arimo, some twenty-five miles east -of Trinidad, that this celebrated old historian and defender of the -faith maintained his ranch and other worldly possessions. Throughout the -sixteenth century this section of Santa Clara was an important station -on the line of travel between Santiago de Cuba and Havana. - -Caravels leaving “Tierra Firme,” or the great continent of South -America, that had been discovered, frequently made this shore, on the -other side of the Caribbean, or were driven against it by storms, the -crews afterwards reaching Santiago de Cuba by travel overland, along the -south coast. Owing probably to the fact that all of this coast, from the -mouth of the Zaza River east to the Cauto, is low, covered with dense -jungle, reports reached Spain to the effect that the most of Cuba was a -swamp, which is far from the truth, since by far the greatest portion of -the Island is rolling and mountainous. - -More than half of Santa Clara is hilly and broken, although owing to the -fertility of the soil this interferes but little with the agricultural -development of the Province. - -The mountains of Santa Clara form the central zone of the great volcanic -upheaval that raised Cuba from the depths of the Caribbean. A broad belt -or double chain lies between the city of Santa Clara and Sancti -Spiritus. Another ridge, just south of the latter city, extends from the -Tunas de Zaza railroad to a point east of the Manatee River, near the -harbor of Cienfuegos. A second group lies between the valleys of the -rivers Arimao and Agabama, names taken from the original appellations -given them by the Indians. - -The highest peak of this central region, called Potrerillo, is located -some seven miles north of Trinidad and reaches an altitude of about -3,000 feet. The mountains of this group extend northwest as far as the -Manicaragua Valley. A third group, lying southeast of the city of Santa -Clara, includes the Sierra del Escambray and the Sierra de Agabama. The -average altitude of these latter hills is only about a thousand feet. - -Another range of hills begins at a point on the north coast of the -Province, twenty-five miles east of Sagua la Orande, and runs parallel -with the north shore of the Island into the Province of Camaguey, in the -western edge of which it disappears in the great level prairies of that -region. The highest peaks of this group are the Sierra Morena, west of -Sagua la Grande, and the Lomas de Santa Fe, near Camajuani. A little -further east they are known as the Lomas de Las Sabanas. - -With the exception of the northern coast range, the other ranges of -Santa Clara have resulted from seismic forces, working apparently at -right angles to the main line of upheaval, leaving the tangled mass of -hills and valleys characteristic of this great central zone of the -Province. What is known as the schistose or pre-cretaceous limestones of -Trinidad, are supposed to be the oldest geological formations in the -Island of Cuba. - -From the foot of the Sierra de Morena, near the north coast, a wide, -comparatively level plain sweeps across the province to the Caribbean -Sea, broken only at a few points by one or two abrupt hills, northeast -of Cienfuegos. Lying between the northern chain of mountains and the -coast, we find quite a broad area of rich level land washed by the salt -water lagoons of the north shore. - -Again, in the extreme southeast corner of Santa Clara, is found another -large tract comprising perhaps a thousand square miles, located between -the Zaza and the two Jatabonico rivers that form the boundary between -the province and Camaguey. - -Between the various chains of mountains and hills that cut the province -of Santa Clara into hundreds of parks and valleys, are exceptionally -rich lands, sufficiently level for cultivation. The Manicaragua Valley, -sloping towards the eastern edge of the Bay of Cienfuegos, is noted for -an excellent quality of tobacco grown in that region. - -Of navigable rivers, owing to the short plains between the various -divides and the coast line, there are practically none in Santa Clara, -although many of the streams have considerable length, and are utilized -for floating logs to the coast during the rainy season. The Arimao, -with its falls, known as the Habanillo, is a picturesque and beautiful -stream, rising in the mountains of the southern central zone and flowing -in a westerly direction, until it empties into the Bay of Cienfuegos. - -The Canao, another small stream with its source near the city of Santa -Clara, takes a southwesterly course and empties into the same bay. The -Damiji flows south to and into Cienfuegos Harbor. The Hanabana rises in -the northwestern extremity of the province, and, flowing south and west, -forms much of its western boundary until it empties into a little lake a -few miles north of the Bay of Cochinos, known as El Tesoro or Treasure -Lake. From this a continuation of the river known as the Gonzalo runs -due west throughout the entire length of the Cienaga de Zapata until it -empties into Broa Bay, an eastern extension of the Gulf of Batabano. - -The Manatee River is a small stream with its origin in the center of the -nest of mountains that lie north of Trinidad; it flows south until it -empties into the Caribbean, midway between the ports of Casilda and -Tunas de Zaza. The Zaza River has its origin in a number of tributary -streams in the northeast corner of the Province, whence it wanders -through many twists and turns between hills and ridges until it finally -passes into the level lands of the southwest corner of the Province, -whence it eventually finds its way to the Caribbean. This stream, -although troubled with bars just beyond its mouth, has a considerable -depth for some twenty or more miles. - -The most important river commercially in this Province, known as the -Sagua, rises a little west of the capital, Santa Clara, and flows in a -northerly direction until it empties into the Bay across from the Sagua -Light on the north coast. The city of Sagua la Grande, a small but -aristocratic place, is located about twenty miles from the mouth of the -river, and is the distributing point for that section of the province. -The river is navigable for small boats from the port of Isabella to the -city above. Another small stream, known as the Sagua la Chica, empties -into the Bay, about midway between La Isabella and the port of -Caibarien. - -The southern coast of the province of Santa Clara, not including the -indentations of gulfs and bays, is approximately two hundred and fifty -miles long. This, of course, includes the great western extension of the -Zapata peninsula, whose shore line alone is one hundred miles in length. -The northern shore, bordering on the great lagoon that separates it from -the Atlantic, measures one hundred and fifty miles, forming thus for the -province an irregular parallelogram whose average width north to south -is about seventy-five miles. - -In the center of the south coast we find the harbor of Cienfuegos, a -beautiful, perfectly land-locked, deep water bay, dotted with islands, -from whose eastern shores tall mountains loom up on the near horizon in -majestic beauty. One of the picturesque old forts of the early -eighteenth century on the west bank of the channel guards the approach -to the entrance of the harbor. Some ten miles back, located on a gently -sloping rise of ground, is the city of Cienfuegos, which next to -Santiago de Cuba is the most important shipping port on the southern -coast. - -As far as definitely known, this port was first entered by the old -Spanish conqueror Ocampo, in 1508. No definite settlement was made -however, until 1819, when refugees from the insurrection of Santo -Domingo established a colony, from which rose the present city of -Cienfuegos. These involuntary immigrants from Santo Domingo were coffee -growers in their own country, and from their efforts splendid coffee -plantations were soon located in the rich valleys and on the mountain -sides that lay off towards the northeast. Large groves of coffee, -struggling under the dense forest shade, still survive in these -mountains, from which the natives of the district bring out on mule back -large crops of excellent coffee that have been grown under difficulties. - -The city of Cienfuegos, or a Hundred Fires, is substantially built of -stone and brick, with wide streets, radiating from a large central -plaza, as in all Spanish cities the favorite meeting place where people -discuss the topics of the day, and listen to the evening concerts of the -municipal band. There are several social clubs in Cienfuegos and a very -good theatre, together with the city hall and hospital, which are -creditable to the community. The population is estimated at 36,000. - -Sancti Spiritus is one of the seven cities founded by Diego Velasquez in -1514, and still bears every evidence of its antiquity. Its streets are -crooked and but little has been done to bring the city into line with -modern progress. This is owing largely to the fact of its being located -twenty-five miles back from the southern coast, and some ten miles off -the main railroad line, connecting the eastern and western sections of -the Island. It lies on the edge of the plateau, east of the mountain -group of southern Santa Clara. An old, tall-towered church still bears -the date of its founding by Velasquez. The city has a population of -approximately 15,000. - -Santa Clara, the capital, is located almost in the center of the -province, well above the sea level. Its wide, well kept streets are -suggestive of health and prosperity. It was founded in 1689, and until -1900 was the eastern terminus of the main railroad line running east -from Havana. Rich fertile lands surround Santa Clara, while the mining -interests a little to the south, although not at present developed, give -every promise of future importance. Copper ore of excellent quality has -been found in a number of places between Santa Clara and Trinidad, while -silver, zinc and gold are found in the same zone, but up to the present -not in quantities that would justify the investment of capital in their -development. Ten thousand tons of asphalt are mined annually not far -from the city, and considerable tobacco is grown in the surrounding -country. The population is estimated at 15,000. - -Sagua la Grande is located on the Sagua River, twenty miles up from the -port of La Isabella. It is a comparatively modern city, with wide -streets, and is the distributing point for the large sugar estates of -that section. Its population is 12,000. - -The Port of Caibarien has grown into considerable importance owing to -the large amount of sugar brought in by the different railroads, for -storage in the big stone warehouses that line the wharf. Shoal water -necessitates lightering out some fifteen miles to a splendid anchorage -under the lee of Cayo Frances, on the outer edge of the great salt water -lagoon which envelops the entire north coast of Santa Clara. The -population is 7,000. - -Five miles west, on the line between Caibarien and Santa Clara, is the -little old city of Remedios, that once occupied a place on the coast, -but was compelled by the unfriendly visits of pirates, as were many -other cities in Cuba in the olden days, to move back from the sea shore, -so that the inhabitants could be warned of an approaching enemy. Around -Remedios, large fields of tobacco furnish the chief source of income to -this city of six or seven thousand people. - -The great “Cienaga de Zapata,” or Swamp of the Shoe, so called on -account of its strange resemblance to a heeled moccasin, although -geographically a part of the Province of Matanzas, has nevertheless -always been included in the boundaries of Santa Clara. Its length from -east to west is about sixty-five miles, with an average width from north -to south of twenty. Many plans, at different times since the first -Government of Intervention, have been formed for the drainage and -reclaiming of this great swamp of the Caribbean, whose area is -approximately twelve hundred square miles. - -Nearly all of the surface is covered with hard wood timber, growing in a -vast expanse of water, varying in depth from one to three feet. Owing -to its lack of incline in any direction, reclamation of this isolated -territory is not easy, although the land, after the timber was removed -and the water once disposed of, would probably be very valuable. - -Enormous deposits of peat and black vegetable muck, cover the western -shores of this peninsula and will, when utilized for either fuel, -fertilizer or gas production, be an important source of revenue, as will -its forests of hard wood, when transportation to the coast is rendered -possible. - -Just east of the heel of the “Zapata” and some forty miles west of the -harbor of Cienfuegos, a deep, open, wide-mouthed roadstead projects from -the Caribbean some eighteen miles into the land, almost connecting with -the little lake known as “El Tesero” or Treasure, located at the most -southerly point of the Province of Matanzas. This roadstead, known as -the Bay of Cochinos, furnishes shelter from all winds excepting those -from the south, against which there is no protection, although abutments -thrown out from the shore might give artificial shelter, and thus render -it a fairly safe harbor. - -Quite a large forest of valuable woods lies a few miles back from the -coast, between Cochinos Bay and the harbor of Cienfuegos. The broken -surface of the dog teeth rocks, however, upon which this forest stands, -renders the removal of logs difficult and dangerous, since iron shoes -will not protect the feet of draft animals used in the transport of wood -to the coast. A narrow strip of very good vegetable land, running only a -mile or so back from the beach, extends along this section of the coast -for about twenty-five miles, awaiting the intelligent efforts of some -future gardener to produce potatoes and other vegetables on a large -scale for spring shipments to Cienfuegos. - -The great source of wealth of the Province of Santa Clara, of course, is -sugar, and to that industry nearly all of her industrial energies are at -present devoted. Seventy great sugar estates, with modern mills, are -located within the Province, yielding an annual production of -approximately eight million sacks of sugar, each weighing 225 pounds. -The fertility of Santa Clara soil has never been exhausted, and the -great network of railroads covering the Province furnishes easy -transportation to the harbors of Cienfuegos, Sagua and Caibarien. -Considerable amounts of sugar are also shipped from Casilda, the port of -Trinidad on the south coast, and some from Tunas de Zaza, at the mouth -of the Zaza River, thirty miles further east. The sugar produced in the -Province in 1918 was valued at eighty million dollars. - -The tobacco of Santa Clara Province, although not of the standard -quality obtained in the western provinces of Pinar del Rio and Havana, -still forms a very important industry. That coming from the Manicaragua -Valley, northeast of Cienfuegos, has obtained a good reputation for its -excellent flavor. - -Coffee culture in the mountains and valleys lying between Trinidad and -Sancti Spiritus, introduced by French refugees from the Island of Santo -Domingo the first years of the last century, was at one time a very -important industry. With the introduction of machinery for hulling and -polishing the beans, and with better facilities for the removal of the -crop to the coast, there is every reason to believe that this industry, -in the near future, will resume some of the importance which it enjoyed -half a century ago, or before the abolition of slavery rendered picking -the berries expensive, since this work can be done only by hand. The -growing of coffee offers a delightful and profitable occupation to large -families, since the work of gathering and caring for the berries is a -very pleasant occupation for women and children. - -Owing to the fertility of the soil of Santa Clara, the abundance of -shade, rich grass, and plentiful streams of clear running water flowing -from the mountains, there is perhaps no section of Cuba that offers -greater inducement to the stock raiser. - -The breeding of fine horses, of high-grade hogs, of angora goats, sheep -and milch cows, will undoubtedly, when the attention of capital is -called to the natural advantages of this section of the country, rival -even the sugar industry of the Province. In no part of the world could -moderate sized herds of fine animals be better cared for than on the -high table lands and rich valleys of Santa Clara. - -Santa Clara bore its part in the trials and sufferings endured by the -patriots of Cuba in the War of Independence. The range of mountains -between Sancti Spiritus and Trinidad, during those four fearful years, -furnished a safe retreat for the Cuban forces, when the soldiers of -Spain, abundantly supplied with ammunition, which their opponents never -enjoyed, pressed them too hard. It was in these dense forests and rocky -recesses which Nature had provided that the great old chieftain, General -Maximo Gomez, in the last years of the war, defied the forces of Spain. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY - - -According to the log of the _Santa Maria_, the first glimpse of the -Island of Cuba enjoyed by Christopher Columbus, sailing as he did in a -southwesterly course across the Bahama Banks, is supposed by many to -have been at some point along the northern coast of what is now known as -the Province of Camaguey. The area of this Province, including Cayos -Romano, Guajaba, Sabinal and Coco, is approximately 11,000 square miles. -The general trend of the coast lines is similar to those of the Province -of Santa Clara, and the length of each is approximately one hundred and -seventy-five miles. The average width of the province is eighty miles, -although between the southern extension of Santa Cruz del Sur and the -mouth of the harbor of Nuevitas, we have a hundred miles. - -The same gentle graceful inoffensive natives were found in this section -of Cuba as those who first received the Spanish conquerors at Baracoa -and other places in the Island. Those of the great plains belonging to -this province were known as Camagueyanos, and although for many years -Spain called this section of the island Puerto Principe, the musical -Indian term stuck, and with the inauguration of the Republic in 1901, -the name of Camaguey was officially given to this part of Cuba. - -In the year 1515, Diego Velasquez, with his fever for founding cities, -established a colony on the shore of the Bay of Nuevitas, and christened -it Puerto Principe. In those early days, however, there was no rest for -the unprotected, hence the first settlement was moved in a short time to -another locality not definitely known, but a year later the city was -permanently established in the center of the province, about fifty miles -from either shore, where it remains today, with many features of its -antiquity still in evidence. - -The first of the old Spanish adventurers who succeeded in making himself -both famous and rich without flagrant trespass of law, was Vasco -Porcallo de Figueroa, one of the original settlers whom Velasquez left -in the City of Puerto Principe founded in 1515. This sturdy old pioneer -did not bother with gold mining, but succeeded in securing large grants -of land in the fertile plains of Camaguey, where he raised great herds -of cattle and horses, exercising at the same time a decidedly despotic -influence over the natives and everyone else in that region. - -Vasco, although spending more than half of the year in the cities of -Puerto Principe and Sancti Spiritus, had a retreat of his own, probably -some place in the Sierra de Cubitas, where he held princely sway and -guarded his wealth from intrusive buccaneers and other ambitious -adventurers of those times. It was he who, meeting Hernando de Soto on -his arrival at Santiago de Cuba, escorted that famous explorer across -the beautiful rolling country of Camaguey, which he seemed to consider -as his own special domain, and finally accepted the position of second -in command in that unfortunate expedition of De Soto into the Peninsula -of Florida in 1539. Fighting the savage Seminoles was not however to his -taste, and the old man returned to Havana inside of a year, mounted his -horse and rode home, firmly convinced, he said, that Camaguey was the -only country for a white man to live and die in. - -Even with the removal of the capital far into the interior, the -peacefully inclined citizens were not free from molestation and -unwelcome visits. During the middle of the seventeenth century, the -famous English corsair, Henry Morgan, afterwards Governor of Jamaica, -paid his respects to several Cuban cities, including Puerto Principe. -In 1668 he crossed the Caribbean with twelve boats and seven hundred -English followers, intending to attack Havana. He afterward changed his -mind, however, and landing in the Bay of Santa Maria began his march on -the capital of Camaguey. - -The inhabitants made a desperate resistance, the Mayor and many of his -followers being killed, but the town was finally compelled to surrender -and submit to being sacked, during which process many women and children -were burned to death in a church behind whose barred doors they had -taken refuge. Morgan finally retired from Puerto Principe with his booty -of $50,000 and five hundred head of cattle. - -During the Ten Years’ War the province of Camaguey became the center of -active military operations. The inhabitants of this section had -descended from the best families of Spain, who had emigrated from the -Mother Country centuries before. They were men of refinement and -education, men whose prosperity and contact with the outside world had -made life impossible under the oppressive laws of the Spanish monarchy. - -Ignacio Agramonte, a scion of one of the best known families of -Camaguey, was a born leader of men, and soon found himself in command of -the Cuban forces. The struggle was an ill advised one, because the odds -in numbers were too great, and the resources of the Cubans were so -limited that success was impossible. The effort of General Agramonte and -his followers, all men of note and social standing, was a brave one, and -the sacrifice of the women, the mothers, sisters and daughters, of that -period, were not surpassed by any country in its fight for liberty. - -But the unfortunate death of General Agramonte, and the long uphill -struggle, brought about the inevitable. The treaty of Zanjon in 1878 was -ultimately forced upon the revolutionists, many of whom afterwards -emigrated with their families to the United States, where some have -remained as permanent citizens of that Republic; among others, Doctor -Enrique Agramonte, a brother of Ignacio, who after fighting through the -ten tiresome years, left his country, never to return. - -In the more recent struggles for Cuban liberty, known as the War of -Independence, Camaguey again took a prominent part and General Maximo -Gomez, who had succeeded Agramonte at his death, and General Antonio -Maceo, had the satisfaction of carrying the campaign of the Occident, -from Oriente, across Camaguey, where they defeated the Spanish forces in -several battles, and in the winter of 1896 led their victorious troops -in three parallel invading columns, to the extreme western end of the -Island. Thus the revolution was carried for the first time in history -beyond the Jucaro and Moron Trocha, or fortified ditch, near the western -border of Camaguey. - -Narrow crooked streets still prevail in some parts of Camaguey and the -erection of modern buildings, that has become so common in Havana, has -not reached this quiet old municipality of the plains which still lives -and breathes an atmosphere smacking of centuries past. - -Topographically, although the surface of Camaguey, in altitude and -contour, varies much, it is, as a whole, far more level than any other -province in the Island. Great fertile savannas and grass covered plains -predominate in almost every part. The potreros, or grazing lands, of -Camaguey, have made it famous as the breeding place par excellence for -horses and cattle, and its equal is not found anywhere in the West -Indies. - -In spite of the comparatively level nature of the country, with the -exception of the low, heavily covered forest belt that sweeps along the -entire southern coast, extending back from ten to twenty-five miles, the -rest of the province partakes more of the character of an elevated -plateau, interspersed with low ranges of mountains and foothills, which -give pleasing diversity to the general aspect of the country. - -The longest range in Camaguey is a continuation of the great central -chain, that follows the trend of the Island. It begins with a prominent -peak known as the Loma Cunagua, which rises abruptly from the low level -savannas ten miles east of the town of Moron in the northwestern corner -of the Province. A little further southeast, the range again appears and -finally develops into the Sierra de Cubitas, which follows the direction -of the north coast, terminating finally in the picturesque peak of -Tubaque, on the Maximo River. - -A small stream, known as the Rio Yaguey, sweeps west along the southern -edge of this ridge and finally breaks through its western end, emptying -into the lagoon or Bay of Cayo Romano. A parallel range of lower hills, -with various spurs, lies a little south of the main Sierra de Cubitas. -The bountifully watered prairies, valleys and parks south and west of -these hills form the ideal grazing ground of the Pearl of the Antilles. -Several large herds of fine hogs and cattle, recently established in -this section, will soon play an important part in the meat supply of -Cuba. - -As in Santa Clara, an independent group, or nest, of low peaks and -beautiful forest covered hills, occupies the southeastern center of the -Province of Camaguey. The lands in this section are very fertile and the -delightful variety of hill, valley and plain renders it a very -attractive country in which to make one’s permanent home. Several -elevations of moderate altitude, known as lomas, rise from the more -level country, a little to the north of the above mentioned district, -and form something of a connecting link between the Najasa, or mountains -of the southwest, and the Sierra de Cubitas of the north shore. - -As before mentioned, several chains of the north coast, originating in -Santa Clara, sweep over and terminate in Camaguey, some ten or fifteen -miles east of the boundary line. The mountains of this district, owing -to the fact that they were distant from the coast, have never been -denuded of their virgin forests, and with the opening of the Cuba -Railroad, connecting Santa Clara with Santiago de Cuba on the south -coast, and the Bay of Nipe on the north, a considerable quantity of -valuable timber has been taken out within recent years. - -Camaguey has no rivers of importance, although numerous streams flowing -from the central plateaus, toward both the northern and southern coast, -are utilized during the rainy season to float logs to shipping points. -These short streams, varying from ten to thirty miles in length, each -form basins or valleys of rich grass lands that are always in demand for -stock raising. Between the Jatobonico del Sur, which forms a part of the -western boundary of the Province, and the Rio Jobobo, which forms the -southeastern boundary, are more than a dozen streams emptying into the -Caribbean. Among these are Los Guiros, the Altamiro, the Najasa and the -Sevilla. - -The Najasa has its origin a little south of the City of Camaguey, and -passes through a heavily timbered country, carrying many logs to the -landing of Santa Cruz del Sur. A railroad was surveyed from the latter -city to the capital some years ago, but has never been completed. - -On the north coast, between the Jatibonico del Norte, which forms the -northwestern boundary, and the Puentes Grandes, forming the -northeastern, we have some ten or a dozen short streams, among the most -important of which are the Rio de los Perros, emptying into the Lagoon -of Turaguanao; the Rio Caonao emptying into the lagoon of Romano; the -Jiguey, cutting through the western extremity of the Sierra de Cubitas -and emptying into the eastern end of the above mentioned lake; the Rio -Maximo, rising on the south side of the chain, sweeping around its -eastern end and emptying into the Bay of Sabinal; and the Saramaguacan, -one of the longest in the province, rising in the mountains of the -Najasa, whence it flows in a northeasterly direction and empties into -the harbor of Nuevitas. Both the Chambas and the Rio Caonao, when not -obstructed by mud bars at their mouths, are navigable for light draft -schooners and sloops, for some twelve or fifteen miles into the -interior. - -At no point on the south Coast of Camaguey can be found any harbor -worthy of the name, although at Jucaro, Santa Cruz del Sur and Romero, -considerable timber and sugar are shipped from piers that extend out -into the shallow waters of the Jucaro and Guacanabo gulfs. - -The long system of salt water bays or lagoons, beginning at Punta Hicaco -in Matanzas, continues along the entire north coast of Camaguey and -terminates in the beautiful harbor of Nuevitas. The lagoons of Camaguey -are formed by a series of keys or islands, of which Cayo Romano, -seventy-five miles in length, with an average width of ten miles, is the -most important. - -Although most of the area of this island is covered with a dense jungle -of low trees, the eastern end rises to quite a high promontory, with -more or less arable land, planted at the present time in henequen, and -yielding a very good revenue to the owner. An unknown number of wild -ponies, variously estimated at from six hundred to two thousand, inhabit -the jungles of Cayo Romano, living largely on the leaves of the forest, -and consequently degenerating in size and form to such an extent that -they have a very little commercial value. - -Cayo Coco, really an extension of Romano, reaches out to the westward -some fifteen miles further, while the Island of Guajaba, separated by a -narrow pass with only three feet of water, incloses the beautiful harbor -of Guanaja. Sabinal, some 25 miles in length by ten or twelve in width, -forms the northern shore of the harbor of Nuevitas. On the latter key -there is fairly good grazing ground and much territory that eventually -will probably be planted in henequen, as is the promontory of Nuevitas, -just north of the city of that name. - -These salt water lakes or bays are often twenty-five miles or more in -length by ten wide and with an average depth of fifteen feet. -Unfortunately, not only are they separated by narrow passes seldom -carrying over three feet, but exit to the ocean for any craft drawing -over five or six feet is very difficult to find. - -The harbor of Nuevitas, in the northwestern corner of the Province, is -one of the finest in the Island. Its width varies from three to ten -miles, while its length is approximately twenty, carrying excellent deep -water anchorage throughout almost its entire extent. A peculiar -river-like opening, six miles in length, deep and narrow, connects it -with the Atlantic Ocean. - -In proportion to its size, the province of Camaguey has less railroad -mileage than any other in the Island. Until 1902, when Sir William Van -Horn, late President of the Cuba Company, connected the City of Santa -Clara by rail with Santiago de Cuba, there were but two railroads in -that section of the country. One, the Camaguey & Nuevitas Road, -connected the capital with practically the only shipping point on the -north coast. Another, built many years before, for military purposes, -connected the town of San Ferrando, on the north coast, with Jucaro on -the south coast, and ran parallel with what was known as the Trocha, a -military ditch about eighty kilometers in length, with two story -concrete forts at each kilometer, and low dug-outs, or shooting boxes, -located midway between the principal forts. The ground was cleared on -either side of the railroad for a kilometer, while on both sides a -perfect network of barbed wire, fastened by staples to the top of wood -stakes, rendered it difficult for either infantry or cavalry to cross -from one side to the other. This modern military device was established -by the Spanish forces in 1895, so as to prevent the Cubans from carrying -the revolution into Santa Clara and the western provinces. - -As in the other provinces of Cuba, cane growing and the making of sugar -forms the chief industry, although, owing to the wonderfully rich -potreros, or grazing lands of Camaguey, the raising of live stock in the -near future will doubtless rival all other sources of wealth in that -section. - -There are twenty sugar mills in the province with a production of -approximately 3,000,000 bags. The two mills at Las Minas and Redencion, -between Camaguey and Nuevitas, have been in operation for many years, -but with the opening up of the Van Horn railroad a new impetus was given -to sugar production, and during the past ten years, some eighteen new -mills have been established at various points along the railroad where -lands were fertile and comparatively cheap. - -A line known as the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, connecting the city of -Nuevitas with Caibarien, in Santa Clara Province, some 200 miles west, -was surveyed and capital for it was promised, in 1914. The breaking out -of the European war delayed work on the road, but its completion can be -assured in the near future. - -Several large sugar estates have been located along the line that will -open up a territory rich in soil and natural resources. Important iron -mines, too, in the foothills of the Sierra de Cubitas, are waiting only -this transportation to add an important revenue to the Province. A great -deal of valuable timber will be available when the line is in operation. - -Owing to the large beds of valuable ore belonging to the mineral zone of -the Cubitas, it is quite probable that the mining industry will some day -rank next to that of general farming in Camaguey, although as far as -natural advantages are concerned, there is no industry which in the end -can rival that of stock raising. - -During 1895, the first year of the War of Independence, over a million -head of sleek, fat cattle were registered in the Province of Camaguey, -where the grasses are so rich that an average of seventy head can be -kept in condition throughout the year on a hundred acres of land. The -two grasses commonly found in Camaguey were both brought from abroad. Of -these, the Guinea, imported from western Africa, grows luxuriantly on -all the plateaus and higher lands of the province, while the Parana, a -long running grass from the Argentine, does best in the lower lands and -savannas. One stock man of Camaguey at least, has succeeded in producing -splendid fields of alfalfa, from which seven or eight cuttings are taken -each year. - -Fruits of all kinds, especially oranges and pineapples, grow luxuriantly -in this Province, but owing to the lack of transportation, the railroad -haul to Havana being practically prohibitory, shipments of fruit and -vegetables to the northern markets are confined almost entirely to a -steamer which leaves the harbor of Nuevitas once every two weeks. - -Owing perhaps to the rich and comparatively cheap lands offered by the -Province of Camaguey, more Americans are said to have settled in this -section than in any other part of Cuba. The first colony, called La -Gloria, was located in 1900 on the beautiful bay of Guanaja or Turkey -Bay, some five or six miles back from the shore. The location, although -healthful and in a productive country, was most unfortunate as far as -transportation facilities were concerned. Two hundred or more families -made clearings in the forests of the Cubitas, and there made for -themselves homes under adverse circumstances. The worst of these was the -isolation of the spot, and lack of communication with any city or town -nearer than Camaguey, some forty-five miles southwest, or Nuevitas, -forty miles east; without railroads, wagon roads, or even water -communication by vessels drawing over seven feet. - -The Zanja, or ditch, some three miles in length, connecting the harbor -of Nuevitas with Guanaja Bay, was recently dredged to a depth of three -or four feet, so that launches can now pass from La Gloria to Nuevitas, -but aside from the fertility of the soil, there was but little to -commend La Gloria as a place of permanent residence. Only grit and -perseverance on the part of sturdy Americans has sustained them during -the past sixteen years. But they concluded to make the best of the -situation in which they found themselves, and are producing nearly -everything needed for their subsistence. A considerable amount also of -farm produce and fruit will soon be shipped to northern markets from the -harbor of Nuevitas. A very creditable agricultural fair is held in La -Gloria each winter, and the contents of the weekly paper seems to bear -every evidence of progress and content. In spite of adverse conditions, -the people of La Gloria have prospered and enjoy there many comforts not -found in colder climates, and with the opening up of the North Shore -Road, this really attractive section of country, which includes several -smaller colonies scattered along the water front, will be brought in -close touch once more with the civilization of the outside world. - -Another colony, also unfortunate in its location, was established at -Ceballos on the Jucaro and Moron railroad, about eight miles north of -its junction with the Cuba Company road at Ciego de Avila. The soil was -well adapted to the growth of citrus fruit, and large groves were laid -out by Americans, some ten or twelve years ago, along the line of the -old clearing that bordered the Trocha. The groves, as far as nature -could provide, were successful, but the excessive freight rates between -Ceballos and either the city of Havana or the Bay of Nipe, have proved -discouraging to the original settlers. - -Several smaller colonies have been located along the Cuba Company’s -railway and the line connecting the city of Camaguey with Nuevitas, but -again the long distance between these points and large markets, either -local or foreign, have worked to the disadvantage of the growers. If -stock raising instead of fruit growing had occupied the time and -attention of these American pioneers, more satisfactory results would -have been obtained. - -Nuevitas, located on the southern shore of the harbor of that name, is a -modern city with wide streets and a population of approximately 7,000 -people. Its location, at the terminus of the Camaguey Railroad, and on -the only harbor of the north coast, renders it a place of considerable -commercial importance, since large quantities of sugar, lumber and -livestock leave the port during the year, while coasting steamers of -local lines touch every few days. - -Camaguey, the capital of the Province, so long known as Puerto Principe, -has a population of about 45,000 people. The natives of this city have -long enjoyed and merited an enviable reputation for integrity, -intelligence and social standing, traits that were inherited from a -number of excellent families who came to Cuba from Southern Spain in the -early colonial days. The rich grazing lands of Camaguey and the -salubrious climate, not only of the north coast, but of the great -plateaus of the interior, were very attractive to the better class of -pioneers who came over in the sixteenth century in search of peace, -permanent homes and wealth based on legitimate industry. - -There is no section of the Island more highly esteemed for the integrity -of its people than that of the isolated, aristocratic city of Camaguey, -such as the families of Agramonte, Betancourt, Cisneros, Luaces, -Sanchez, Quesada and Varona. Nearly all these families through the long -painful Ten Years’ War suffered privations, followed by exile and loss -of everything but pride, dignity and good names. - -Most of them made permanent homes in the United States, but many of -their children, educated in the land that gave their parents shelter, -have returned to their native country and occupied positions of trust -and responsibility in the new Republic. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -PROVINCE OF ORIENTE - - -The Province of Oriente, called by Spain Santiago de Cuba, forms the -eastern extremity of the Island, and is not only the largest in area, -but, owing to the exceptional fertility of its soil, the great number of -magnificent harbors, the size and extent of its plains and valleys, -together with the untold wealth of its mines of iron, copper, manganese, -chrome and other minerals, it must be considered industrially as one of -the most important provinces of Cuba. - -Its area consists of 14,213 square miles, its form is triangular, Cape -Maysi, the eastern terminus of the island, forming the apex of the -triangle, while the base, with a length of about one hundred miles, -extends from Cabo Cruz along the Manzanillo coast to the north shore. -One side of the triangle, formed by the south coast, has a length of -nearly 250 miles, while another, without counting the convolutions of -the sea coast, borders for two hundred miles on the Atlantic. - -Mountain chains follow both the north and south shores of Oriente, while -about one-third of its area, which composes the eastern section, is a -great tangle or nest of irregular mountains, flat top domes, plateaus, -and foothills, with their intervening basins, parks and valleys. - -While the main chain, or mountainous vertebrae, seems to disappear in -the Sierra de Cubitas of Camaguey, it reappears again, just west of the -Bay of Manati, in the extreme northern part of the province, and extends -along the north shore at broken intervals, until it finally melts into -that great eastern nest of volcanic upheavals that forms the eastern end -of the Island. From this north shore chain, innumerable spurs are thrown -off to the southward between Manati and Nipe Bay, reaching sometimes -twenty-five or thirty miles back into the interior. - -[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN ROAD, ORIENTE] - -Along the southern shore of Oriente from Cabo Cruz to Cabo Maysi, -ascending at times abruptly from the beach, and at others dropping back -a little, we have the longest and tallest mountain range of Cuba. One -peak, known as Turquino, located midway between the city of Santiago de -Cuba and Cape Cruz, reaches an altitude of 8,642 feet. - -From the crest of this range, known as the Sierra Maestra, the great -network of spurs are thrown off to the north toward the valley of the -Cauto, while between these mountain offshoots several of the Cauto’s -most important tributaries, including the Cautill, Contraemaestre and -Brazos del Cauto, have their sources. - -Most of the mountainous districts are still covered with dense tropical -forests that contain over three hundred varieties of hard woods, the -cost of transportation alone preventing their being cut and marketed. - -The interior of the Province, from the Mayari River west, is the largest -valley in Cuba, with a virgin soil marvellously rich through which runs -the Cauto River, emptying into the Caribbean Sea, a little north of the -City of Manzanillo. This stream, with its tributaries, forms the most -extensive waterway in the Island. - -A tributary on the north known as the Rio Salado, rising south of the -city of Holguin, flows in a westerly direction and empties into the -Cauto just above the landing of Guamo, some fifteen miles from the -Caribbean. Small streams empty into all of the numerous deep water gulfs -and bays that indent the north coast of Oriente. Each serves its purpose -in draining adjacent lands, but none, with the exception of the Mayari, -is navigable. This stream, the most important perhaps of the north -coast, rises in the eastern center of the Province, cutting its way west -along the base of the Crystal Mountains, until it reaches their western -end, whence it makes a sharp turn to the north, and after tumbling over -the falls, gradually descends and empties into Nipe Bay. - -The Sagua de Tanamo and its tributaries drain quite a large basin east -of the Mayari, and empty into the Gulf of Tanamo. The Moa, a short -stream, rises not far from the Tanamo but flows north to the ocean. The -Toa, flowing east, cuts through valleys for fifty miles, and finally -empties into the Atlantic thirty miles west of Cape Maysi. - -But little is known of this river; and like many of the streams which -for countless centuries have been cutting their tortuous ways through -the table lands and gorges of the eastern part of Oriente, its shores -have seldom been visited by human beings since the Siboney Indians, who -once made that section their home, gave up trying to be Christians and -took their chances of happiness on the other side of the “Great -Divide.” - -The Harbor of Puentes Grandes, that separates Oriente from Camaguey on -the north coast, is sufficiently deep for ordinary draft vessels, but -owing to sand spits and coral reefs that extend for some distance out -into the Atlantic, and to the fact that good harbors lie within a few -miles on either side, commerce up to the present has never sought this -place as a port of entry. - -About twelve miles east, however, we have the Bay of Manati with a -fairly easy entrance and an elbow-like channel that will give anchorage -to vessels drawing fathoms. On the shore of Manati Bay has been -established a very fine sugar mill surrounded by thousands of acres of -cane grown in the Yarigua Valley. Sugar is exported from this port -directly to the United States. - -Within the next twenty-five miles, east, are found two well protected -harbors, Malagueta and Puerto Padre. The latter is the deeper and more -important, owing to the large basin of fertile lands immediately -surrounding it. Puerto Padre has excellent anchorage and belongs to the -type of narrow mouthed bays so common to the north coast of Cuba. - -On the eastern shore of Puerto Padre are located two of the Cuban -American Sugar Company’s largest mills, “El Chaparra” and “Las -Delicias,” each with a capacity of 600,000 bags of sugar per year. These -two mills are considered, both in location and equipment, among the -finest in the world. The sugar, of course, is shipped directly from -Puerto Padre to New York, rendering them independent of railroad -transportation, and consequently large revenue producing properties. - -General Mario Menocal, General Manager of the Cuban American Company’s -mills, began his great industrial career at Chaparra, which he left to -assume the Presidency of the Republic in 1913. It is a very neat little -city, with wide avenues, comfortable homes, good schools and many of the -conveniences of much larger places. President Menocal visits Chaparra -several times during the grinding season each year. - -Some thirty-five miles east we have the large open roadstead of Jibara, -with sufficient depth of water to provide for shipping, but with very -little protection from northerly gales. On the western side of this -harbor is located the city of Jibara, which forms the shipping place for -the rich Holguin district, some thirty miles south. - -Some forty miles further east, around the bold Punta de Lucrecia, we -have another fine, deep-water, perfectly protected harbor, known as the -Bay of Banes, whose rich valleys lying to the south and west contribute -cane to the Ingenio Boston, belonging to the United Fruit Company, whose -output is approximately half a million bags of sugar per year. - -Southeast of Banes, about fifteen miles, we reach the entrance of the -Bay of Nipe, considered one of the finest and best protected harbors in -the world. Its entrance is sufficiently wide for ships to pass in or out -at ease, while the bay itself furnishes forty-seven miles of deep water -anchorage. - -Nipe Bay is a little round inland sea, measuring ten miles from north to -south by fifteen from east to west. The Mayari River flows into the bay -from the southern shore and furnishes, for light draft boats, -transportation to the city, some six miles up the river. On the north -shore of the bay is located the town of Antilla, terminus of the -northern extension of the Cuba Company’s lines, and one of the most -important shipping places on the north coast. On the Bay of Nipe is -located the Ingenio Preston, one of the finest sugar mills in Cuba, -contributing 371,000 bags in the year 1918 to the sugar stock of the -world. - -Some seven or eight miles east of the entrance of Nipe lies another -large, beautiful, land-locked bay, or rather two bays, separated by a -tongue of land extending into the entrance of the harbor and known as -Lavisa and Cabonico, both of which are deep, although the first -mentioned, with a length of eight miles and a width of six, is the -larger of the two. The shores of both these harbors are covered with -magnificent hardwood forests, most of which have remained intact. The -lands surrounding them are rich, and will, within a very short time, -probably be converted into large sugar estates. These beautiful virgin -forests, with their marvellously fertile soil, surrounding the harbors -of Lavisa and Cabonico, might have been purchased ten years ago at -prices varying from eight to twelve dollars an acre. In 1918 they were -sold at fifty dollars per acre, and were easily worth twice that sum. - -Fifteen miles further east we have another fine deep-water harbor known -as Tanamo. Its entrance is comparatively easy, and although the bay is -very irregular in shape, the channel furnishes good anchorage for fairly -deep draft vessels. The Sagua de Tanamo River, whose tributaries drain -the rich valleys south of the bay, has its source in the great nest of -mountains in the eastern end of Oriente. - -Baracoa, some twenty miles east, is a small, picturesque anchorage, but -with almost no protection against northerly winds, and for this reason -cannot rank as a first class port, although a good deal of shipping -leaves it during the year, the cargoes consisting mostly of cocoanuts -and bananas, for which this district has always been quite a center of -production in Oriente. - -It was on this harbor that Diego Velasquez made the first settlement in -Cuba, in the year 1512. He called it the city of Nuestra Senora de la -Asuncion, but the original Indian name of Baracoa has remained attached -to the spot where Spanish civilization began in the Pearl of the -Antilles. - -It was here that General Antonio Maceo with a little band of thirty men -landed from Costa Rica in March, 1895, and began the War of -Independence, which ultimately led to the formation of the Republic of -Cuba. - -Rounding Cape Maysi at the extreme eastern end of Cuba, and following -the south coast, no harbor is found until we reach Guantanamo Bay, -nearly a hundred miles west. This magnificent harbor was first visited -by Columbus on his second voyage when he sailed along the south coast in -1494. The celebrated navigator referred to it as “Puerto Grande,” but -the original Indian name of Guantanamo again replaced that of the white -invaders. - -The Bay of Guantanamo is considered one of the finest harbors in the -world. It was selected from all the ports of Cuba by Captain Lucien -Young in 1901 as the best site for a naval station in the West Indies -for the United States Navy. Arrangements were later made between Cuba -and authorities in Washington, by which it was formally ceded for that -purpose. Not only is Guantanamo a large bay, extending some fifteen -miles up into the interior, but its mouth is sufficiently wide and deep -to permit three first-class men of war to enter or leave the harbor -abreast at full speed, without danger of collision or contact with the -channel’s edge on either side. - -The Guantanamo River, after draining the great wide valleys that lie to -the north and west, enters the Bay on the western shore. The City of -Guantanamo, some fifteen miles back, is connected by rail with the -coast, and also with the city of Santiago de Cuba, fifty miles further -west. It was founded toward the end of the eighteenth century by French -refugees from Santo Domingo, and has at present a population of 28,000. - -Eleven large sugar estates are located in the Guantanamo valley, which -is one of the largest cane producers in Oriente. - -Fifty miles further west we find the harbor of Santiago de Cuba, -absolutely land-locked, and probably the most beautiful of all in the -West Indies. Its entrance, between two headlands, is narrow and might -easily escape observation unless the passing vessel were less than a -mile from shore. Rounding the high promontory of the east, with its -old-fashioned fort of the middle eighteenth century, one enters a -magnificent bay, dotted with palm covered islands, gradually opening -and spreading out towards the north. Its winding channels present -changing views at every turn, until the main or upper bay is reached, on -the northern shore of which is located the city of Santiago de Cuba, -that for half a century after its founding in 1515 was the capital of -Cuba. - -Santiago played a very important part in the early history, or colonial -days, of the Pearl of the Antilles, passing through the trials and -tribulations that befell the first white settlers in this part of the -Western Hemisphere. Not many years after its founding, it was sacked and -burned by French corsairs. - -Santiago was one of the few cities in all Cuba that retained the names -given them by their Spanish founders. It was here in June, 1538, that -Hernando de Soto, appointed Governor by the King of Spain, recruited men -for that unfortunate expedition into the great unknown territory across -the Gulf, which cost him his life, although his name became immortal as -the discoverer of the Mississippi River. - -Santiago became famous in American history through the destruction of -Cervera’s fleet by Admirals Sampson and Schley, and the capitulation of -the city to United States forces in July, 1898. It has a population of -about 45,000. The city lies on the southern slope of the plateau, rising -from the bay towards the interior. Its streets are well laid out and -fairly wide, with several charming little parks, or plazas, such as are -found in all Latin American cities. - -The commercial standing of the city is based on the heavy shipments of -sugar and ores, iron, copper and manganese mined in the surrounding -mountains. The building of the Cuba Company’s railroad connecting it -with the other end of the Island and with the Bay of Nipe on the north -coast, did much towards increasing the importance of Santiago. The -outlying districts of the city are reached by a splendid system of -automobile drives, surveyed and begun at the instigation of General -Leonard Wood, then governor of the Province, in 1900. These well-built, -macadamized carreteras wind around hills and beautiful valleys, many of -which have a historic interest, especially the crest of the Loma San -Juan, or San Juan Hill, captured by the American forces in the summer of -1898. A unique kiosk has been built on the summit of this hill from -which a view of El Caney, over toward the east, and many other points -which figured in that sharp, brief engagement, are indicated on brass -tablets, whose pointed arrows, together with accompanying descriptions, -give quite a comprehensive idea of the battle which loosened the grip of -the Spanish monarchy on the Pearl of the Antilles, and made Cuban -liberty possible for all time to come. In the valley just below is a -beautiful Ceiba tree, under which the peace agreement between American -and Spanish commanders was concluded in July, 1898. The grounds are -inclosed by an iron fence with various inscriptions instructive and -interesting. - -Santiago is named in honor of the Patron Saint of Spain, and the -Archbishop of Cuba, in keeping with custom and early traditions, still -makes his headquarters in this picturesque and historically interesting -capital of the Province of Oriente. - -Between Santiago and Cabo Cruz, one hundred and fifty miles west, is but -one harbor worthy of mention, the Bay of Portillo, a rather shallow -although well protected indentation of the south coast. On the rich -level lands at the base of the mountains back of and around the harbor -of Portillo, grow enormous fields of cane, feeding the mill on the -western side of the bay. Several other indentations of the south coast -furnish landing places from which either timber or agricultural products -may be shipped, when southerly winds do not endanger the anchorage. A -small harbor known as Media Luna, between Cabo Cruz and Manzanillo, -forms the shipping place of the Ingenio Isabel, which produced 175,000 -sacks of sugar in 1918. - -The somewhat shallow harbor of Manzanillo is located at the mouth of a -small stream in the Sierra Maestra. Vessels of more than fifteen feet -draft, find the Manzanillo channel somewhat difficult. The city itself -is comparatively modern, with wide streets regularly planned and laid -out. Its population is about 18,000, although the municipal district -contains some 35,000 inhabitants. Manzanillo is one of the chief -shipping ports and distributing points for the rich valley of the Cauto, -the largest valley by far in Cuba. This river during the rainy season is -navigable for river boats for some hundred miles to the interior. Bars -that have formed near its mouth on the west shore of Guacanabo Gulf -prevent the navigation of deeper craft. - -The City of Bayamo, located on the Bayamo River, a tributary of the -Cauto, is connected by the southern branch of the Cuba Company’s -Railroad with Manzanillo, twenty-five miles west, and also with Santiago -de Cuba. It was one of the original seven cities founded by Diego -Velasquez in 1514. In the early days of colonial occupation, Bayamo -passed through the same period of trials and tribulations that afflicted -nearly all of the early settlements in Cuba. - -Historically it has never been prominent as the birth-place of struggles -in which the natives of Cuba endeavored to throw off the yoke of Spain. -It was the home of Cespedes, the first revolutionary President of the -Island, who freed his slaves in 1868, and with a small force of men -raised the cry known as the “Crita de Baire,” that started the Ten -Years’ War. - -Again, in February, 1895, General Bartolome Maso with his son and a few -loyal companions left his home in the city of Bayamo, and at his farm -called “Yara” declared war against the armies of the Spanish Monarchy, -never surrendering until Independence was eventually secured through the -defeat of Spain by American forces in 1898. The city, although boasting -only of some 5,000 inhabitants, is located in the fertile plains of -the Cauto Valley, known throughout the world as the largest sugar cane -basin ever placed under cultivation. The Cuban National Hymn had its -origin in this little city and is known as the “Himno de Bayamo.” - -[Illustration: ON THE CAUTO RIVER - -The Cauto River, traversing Oriente Province, is the largest stream in -Cuba, and is of inestimable value for navigation, for water supply, and -for drainage. It is the salient feature of many fine landscape scenes, -ranging from the idyllic to the majestic.] - -Holguin, located in the northern center of the Island, among picturesque -hills and fertile valleys, is the most important city in northern -Oriente. It was founded in 1720, receiving its charter in 1751, and -boasts of a population of about 10,000. The harbor of Gibaro, -twenty-five miles north, with which it is connected by rail, is the -shipping port of the Holguin district. The country is very healthful and -long noted as a section in which Cuban fruits acquire perhaps their -greatest perfection. Americans living in this city, within the last ten -years, have established splendid nurseries, known throughout the Island. - -Victoria de las Tunas, a small city located on the Cuba Company’s -Railroad, some 20 miles from the western boundary of the Province, -acquired celebrity in the War of Independence owing to its capture after -a siege of several days by the Cuban forces under General Calixto -Garcia, in the fall of 1897. - -It was in this engagement that Mario Menocal, then Chief of Staff with -the rank of Colonel in the insurgent forces, distinguished himself -through a brilliant charge made at a critical moment, in which he led -his Cuban cavalry against the well equipped forces of Spain. Colonel -Menocal was wounded in this engagement, but as a reward for intelligent -and courageous action he was shortly afterward made Brigadier General, -and given command of the insurgent forces in the Province of Havana, -which he held up to the time of the Spanish surrender in 1898. - -An incident indicative of the character and discipline of the Cuban -forces took place at the capture of Victoria de las Tunas, when General -Calixto Garcia, after caring for the Spanish wounded, furnished an -escort to protect his prisoners and non-combatants who wished to leave -the city, in a march overland to the town of Manati, where they were -delivered into the safe keeping of the Spanish authorities, as the -Cubans were unable to keep prisoners owing to shortage of food. General -Calixto Garcia was a native of Holguin, owing to which fact, perhaps, -much consideration was shown to both persons and property in the -surrounding district, where he had both friends and relatives. - -The sugar industry, of course, as in all provinces but Pinar del Rio, is -the chief source of wealth in Oriente. The entire northeastern half, -including the great valley of the Cauto River, as well as the rich lands -in the valley of Guantanamo, and the basin surrounding the Bay of Nipe, -are devoted almost entirely to the production of sugar. The European War -of 1914 gave a great impetus to this industry, owing to the demands made -by the allies for this staple food product. An illustration of this may -be found in the increased acreage of cane in Oriente between the years -of 1913 and 1918. In 1913 Oriente was producing 3,698,000 bags, while in -1918 the sugar crop reach 6,463,000 bags. Forty-two large sugar centrals -are in operation in Oriente at the present time, with a marked increase -each year. - -Next in importance to the production of sugar ranks stock raising. -Thousands of acres that cover the plateaus, foothills, mountains, parks -and valleys, supplied as they are with an abundance of fresh water and -splendid grass, furnish strong inducements to the stock grower of -Oriente, who has nothing to fear from cold, snow, drought or storm. The -profits of stock raising where the business is conducted under -intelligent management, are certainties, which is true of all sections -of the Island adapted to this industry. - -Coffee, as in the provinces of Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio, owes its -introduction into Cuba to the French refugees who, driven by revolution -out of Santo Domingo, fled to Cuba and settled there in the first years -of the nineteenth century. The large profits that have resulted from -the cultivation of sugar cane have undoubtedly drawn capital from the -coffee industry, and unless a sufficient amount of cheap labor can be -secured, the gathering of this crop is not always profitable. In spite -of the rather heavy tariff, and the excellent quality of the bean, it is -compelled to compete with the imported article from Porto Rico and other -countries. It is quite probable, too, that through years of neglect in -cultivation, the habit of prolific bearing has deteriorated. - -The rich, narrow, deep soiled vales among the tangled mountains that -cover the eastern extremity of the province are especially adapted to -the growth of cacao, but in spite of most satisfactory returns most of -the farmers of Cuba seem to prefer life in the open potreros, with its -cultivation of sugar cane and care of live stock, to that of comparative -retirement, imposed upon those who devote themselves to coffee and cacao -in the mountainous districts. Cacao, nevertheless, owing to the more -extensive manufacture of chocolate in all parts of the world, is in -increasing demand, and it is practically certain that the near future -will bring immigrants from mountainous countries, who will find the -cultivation of both coffee and cacao to their liking, as well as to -their permanent profit. - -But very little tobacco is grown in Oriente, aside from that which has -long been cultivated on the banks of the Mayari River. In the -neighborhood of the little village bearing that name, considerable -tobacco of an inferior grade has been grown for many years, The German -Government up to the blockading of her ports in 1914, consumed almost -the entire Mayari crop, the soldiers of that country seeming to prefer -it to any other tobacco. - -More valuable timber grows in the interior of Oriente than in any other -part of Cuba, and much of it will probably remain standing until more -economical methods are introduced by which logs can be conveyed to the -coast for shipment. Large amounts of cedar and mahogany are exported -every year from Oriente, especially from the valley of Sagua de Tanamo, -which empties into Tanamo Bay on the north coast. - -Several American colonies have been located in the different parts of -this province, most of them devoting their energies to the growing of -fruits and vegetables that are shipped to northern markets from the -terminus of the railroad at Antilla, on Nipe Bay. Some of them, too, -have built up stock farms that are giving splendid results. - -Owing to the size of the province, and its comparatively few -inhabitants, greater opportunities for colonization are found here than -in the western end of the Island. Thousands of acres of magnificent -lands, at present owned in huge tracts, are still available for purchase -and division into small farms. These would furnish homes for families -that might be brought from Italy and the Canary Islands greatly to the -profit of the Republic itself as well as to the immigrants. People of -this class are especially desired in Oriente, and every effort is being -made by the Government to encourage their immigration, since energy, -combined with a fair degree of intelligence, on the rich lands of this -section of Cuba, can result only in success. - -The mineral wealth of Oriente is undoubtedly greater than that of any of -the other provinces. Although both iron and copper have been mined here -for many years, the mineral zones of the Island have never been fully -exploited, or even intelligently prospected, by men familiar with the -mining industry. Copper was discovered by the early Spanish conquerors -and mined at El Cobre, in the early years of the 16th century. The ore -deposits of this mine have never been exhausted, and are still worked -with profit. The same mineral has been discovered in other sections of -the province, but owing to lack of transportation facilities, but little -effort has been made towards mining it. The Spanish Iron Company, for -more than a half century, has been taking iron ore from the sides of -the mountains on the coast, just east of the city of Santiago de Cuba, -and shipping it from the port of Daquiri. - -These mines are in the form of terraces, that are cut into the sides of -the mountains, so that the ore can be easily withdrawn and shipped to -the United States for smelting purposes. These properties have recently -changed hands, and with the investment of greater capital will soon be -put into a still higher state of production. - -Perhaps the most profitable iron mines in the Republic are those owned -by the Bethlehem Steel Company, in the Valley of the Mayari, some -eighteen or twenty miles back from the coast. The mineral here is easily -removed from the surface, and sent by gravity down to the large reducing -mills on the shore of the Bay, where most of the waste material is -washed out with water. The iron ore of Oriente is of a very high grade -and is impregnated with a sufficient amount of nickel to add greatly to -its value. - -The recent demand for chrome, brought about by the enormous increase in -the consumption of steel in the United States, brought the chrome -districts of the world, including those of Cuba, into considerable -prominence. The great shortage of tonnage, too, made it inconvenient to -bring chrome from Brazil. Recent investigations made in Cuba, however, -demonstrated the fact that this Province alone, with the investment of a -few hundred thousand dollars in road building, can supply the mills of -the United States with all the chrome and manganese needed for the -development of the steel industries. Several manganese mines are being -worked at the present time, most of them on the northern slope of the -Sierra Maestra, whence the ore is conveyed by rail to Santiago de Cuba -and shipped to Atlantic ports, where the demand is greatest. - -The development of the mining industry in Oriente has hardly begun, but -with the enormous amount of iron and copper that will be needed for -building purposes throughout the world in the near future, there is -every reason to believe that this province will have an opportunity to -open up and to work many of her mines, with very satisfactory returns on -the capital invested. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -THE ISLE OF PINES - - -Although from the early days of Spanish conquest the Isle of Pines was -considered by Spain as an integral part of Cuba, as are Cayo Romano and -all other adjacent islands, in the treaty of Paris that concluded the -controversy in regard to Spain’s possessions in the West Indies the Isle -of Pines was referred to as a locality distinct in itself, and as -possibly not coming within the jurisdiction of Cuban territory. - -A rule placed on any mariner’s chart of the West Indies, connecting in a -straight line Cabo Cruz, in the Province of Oriente, and Cape San -Antonio, the western extremity of Cuba, includes the Isle of Pines -within the limits of the seismic uplift which formed the Pearl of the -Antilles. More than all, during much of the geological history of the -region across the shallow sandy bed, covered now with only a few fathoms -of water, the Isle of Pines was connected by land with Cuba. - -During the first government of American intervention, several ambitious -citizens of the United States bought large tracts of territory in the -Isle of Pines, whose owners considered them of so little value that they -parted with them at prices varying from 75¢ to $1.25 per acre. These -properties were immediately divided up into small farms, varying from -five to forty acres, and placed on the market in the United States. With -glowing descriptions of the country they were sold at prices gradually -increased from $15 to $50 and even $75 an acre. - -In view of the beautiful printed matter so widely distributed, and the -values which fertile farming lands in the United States had acquired in -recent years, these prices apparently did not seem exorbitant, -especially to men of means, who during the greater part of their -experiences had fought out the struggle of life in the cold northwest. -Many Americans were thus induced to come and settle in the Isle of -Pines, with the hope, if not of amassing a fortune as pictured in the -alluring terms of the propaganda, at least of securing a competence for -their declining years. - -More than all, the Isle of Pines was thoroughly advertised throughout -the American Union as belonging to the United States, whose emblem of -Liberty floated as an indication of ownership never to be lowered. This -matter of ownership was finally brought before the Congress of the -United States and through treaty with the Republic of Cuba, afterwards -confirmed by decision of the Supreme Court of the United States, was -definitely settled in favor of the smaller Republic. Cuba, in -consideration of the waiving of all American claims on the Isle of -Pines, agreed to cede to the United States coaling stations at Bahia -Honda and Guantanamo. Thus the disputed territory retained its original -position as the southern half of the judicial district of the Province -of Havana. - -The Island contains approximately 1200 square miles, a third or more of -which is occupied by a large swamp bounded on the north by a depression -running east and west across the Island, and extending to its southern -shore on the Caribbean. The soil as a rule is sandy and poor, lacking -nearly all the essential elements of plant food, and hence, for -successful agriculture, needs large quantities of fertilizer. - -The natural drainage of the Island is good, and the climatic conditions -are almost identical with those of Cuba. Aside from poverty of soil, -that which has most obstructed its prosperity is its geographical -position, lying as it does some fifty miles from the mainland, within -the curve formed by the concave littoral of the southern shore, from -which it is separated by shallow seas and sand bars. The only harbor -with sufficient depth for ocean going steamers is the open roadstead of -La Ensenada de Siguanea, which furnishes little or no protection from -heavy western winds. Vessels plying between the Isle of Pines and the -United States are compelled to go several hundred miles out of their way -in rounding the western extremity of Cuba. - -All products raised in the Isle of Pines at the present time are shipped -on light draft steamers to the landing of Batabano, whence they are -transferred to a branch of the United Railways of Havana and carried -across Cuba to the wharves of the capital for export. This loss of time -and breaking of bulk has been, of course, disadvantageous to the fruit -and vegetable growers of the Isle of Pines. Nevertheless large -shipments, especially of grape fruit, have been made, and during those -seasons in which Florida has suffered from frost, the returns to the -grower have been very satisfactory. - -Unfortunately, too, this interesting outpost of the Republic of Cuba -lies directly within the path of the cyclones which during the months of -September and October form in the Lesser Antilles to the southwest, and -travelling northwesterly rake the Caimeros, the Isle of Pines and the -extreme western end of Cuba. These great whirling storms usually pass -through the straits between Cape San Antonio and Yucatan, following the -curve of the western Gulf States until exhausted in the forests of -northern Florida and Georgia. The cyclone of October, 1917, destroyed -all the fruit of the Isle of Pines and practically ruined the citrus -groves, greatly discouraging the people who had devoted so many years of -time and toil to their care and development. - -In spite of these disadvantages, however, the greater part of the -Americans who have made their homes in the Isle of Pines, with genuine -Yankee grit, refuse to lose courage, and have started all over again to -restore those sections that were temporarily devastated. The Isle of -Pines is not an attractive place for the man of small means, since -considerable capital is absolutely necessary for successful agriculture -in that section. Nevertheless, there is every reason to believe that -with time, and intelligently directed effort, the Island may eventually -become a really valuable asset to the Republic. - -There seems to be no reason why the great deposits of muck from the -swamps which form the southern part of the Island, lying also along the -coast of the mainland in many places, might not be transferred to those -soils of the Isle of Pines lacking in humus, and thus in time build a -foundation of sufficient fertility to produce almost any crop desired. - -In the northern half of the Isle of Pines are several low mountains, or -ridges and hills, especially on either side of Nueva Gerona, which are -composed largely of crystalline marble known as the Gerona marble. It is -probable also that this same material forms part of the Sierra Pequena, -or Little Ridge, located a few miles east, as well as that of the Sierra -de Canada seen in the distance. - -This marble is thoroughly crystalline, retaining little or no trace of -organism that it may originally have held. The greater part of it is -rather coarse, although there are some beds of fine white statuary -marble. The color varies from pure white to dark grey, with strongly -marked banding in places. These rocks probably belong to the Paleozoic -age, although the crystalline character of the material renders the -period of their origin somewhat doubtful. In some beds the impurities of -the original limestone have recrystallized and formed silicate minerals, -chiefly fibrous hornblende. This deposit of marble has been estimated to -be not less than 2,000 feet in thickness. - -The drinking water of the Isle of Pines is abundant, and like that of -nearly all other parts of Cuba is of excellent quality. Several mineral -springs exist which have a local reputation for medicinal properties. -Many beautiful homes, and miles of splendid driveways, have been built -by the property owners of the Isle of Pines, who have a natural pride in -its beauty and development. - -To those pioneers from the United States who have done so much towards -the regeneration and building up of this section, that has always been -agriculturally despised, or at least ignored by the natives, the -Government of Cuba feels greatly indebted, and it realizes fully that -only through immigration of this kind will this excellent work be -continued. Agricultural fairs, to which the Government of Cuba -contributes a generous amount for prizes, are held each year in the -Island, and social life among the residents, enlivened as it is by -visitors from the north during the winter season, is said to be -charming. - -The principal cities are Nueva Gerona and Santa Fe, while numberless -small colonies are found every few miles along the highways that have -been built within the last ten years. The Isle of Pines has an -attractive future and many of the rosy dreams of the early American -pioneers, with time, patience and capital, will undoubtedly be -realized. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -MINES AND MINING - - -After a lapse of more than four centuries, there are grounds for -believing that the dreams of the early Spanish conquerors, who overran -Cuba shortly after its discovery by Columbus, may be realized, though -not exactly as they expected. Gold may never be found in paying -quantities, yet the mineral wealth of the Island may exceed in value its -present agricultural output, which amounts annually to hundreds of -millions of dollars. The followers of Columbus as a rule cared little -for the more quiet pursuits of agriculture, but were obsessed with a -craving for the precious metals, and during the first half of the 16th -century, with the aid of the Indians, mined and shipped a sufficient -amount of gold to encourage greatly the rulers of Spain, who were quite -as persistent in their craze for the yellow metal as were the pioneers -of the New World. - -Narvaez, Velasquez’s most active lieutenant, at the head of 150 men in -1512, marched from Oriente westward in a wild search for gold. Samples -of this metal were found in various places and sent back to Velasquez, -who forwarded them to King Ferdinand. The seven cities founded within -the next two years were said to have been selected, not owing to the -fertility of their soil or on account of advantageous locations, but -solely with reference to their proximity to gold deposits. - -In spite of these early discoveries, however, the amount of gold found -in Cuba, although encouraging at the time, has never approached the -value of other metals far more common and found in almost unlimited -quantities. The district that first seems to have yielded a fair amount -of gold was along the shores of the Arimao River, where the Cubenos -panned a few hundred dollars in nuggets from the bed of the stream, and -this determined the location of the city of Trinidad in 1514. - -The first and largest shipment of gold from the Island of Cuba, -amounting to $12,437, was forwarded to Spain in the summer of 1515, and -was converted into coin of the realm by the King. Since the royal share -was one-fifth of all produced, it would seem that the total yield during -the first four years in Cuba amounted to $62,000. - -The large quantities of gold found in Mexico by Cortez, some ten years -later, so greatly excited the Spanish conquerors in their quest for this -metal, that gold mining in Cuba gradually became an abandoned industry, -and by 1535 had practically ceased. Since that time there have been no -discoveries that would seem to justify further search. - -Some time during the year 1529, copper was discovered on the crest of a -hill known as Cardenillo, about ten miles west of Santiago de Cuba. -Mines in this vicinity had apparently been previously worked by the -Cubeno Indians, who did not enlighten the Spaniards in regard to their -existence. The value of the find was not recognized until a certain -bell-maker, returning as a passenger from Mexico, visited the mines and -analyzed samples of the ore. As a result of his report the people of -Santiago soon became aroused over the prospective value of the find and -petitioned the crown for experts and facilities with which to develop -the mine. - -Dr. Ledoux, the famous French metallurgist, carefully analyzed the ore -from these mines, and as a result reached the conclusion that the -natives of Cuba, although apparently making no use of the copper -themselves, had trafficked with the Indians of Florida, since in the -many assays made of the copper relics of those tribes, it was found that -the same percentage of silver and gold were contained in them as was -found in the ore of the Cuban deposits. No other copper ores known have -percentages of silver and gold so closely identical to those of “El -Cobre.” - -Little was done, however, toward the development of the Santiago mines -until 1540, when the Spanish crown found itself short of material with -which to make castings for its artillery and ordered an investigation of -the Cuban copper deposits. In April of 1540, a German returning from a -Flemish settlement in Venezluela visited “El Cobre” and entered into an -agreement with the town council to work the mine. The ore yielded, -according to the records, from 55% to 60% of pure copper, carrying with -it also gold and silver. Samples were again sent to Spain to be tested -by the crown. In 1514 forty negroes were set to work in the mines, under -the direction of Gaspar Lomanes, and smelted some 15,000 pounds. - -In 1546 the German referred to above, John Tezel of Nuremberg, returned -from Germany, where he had carried samples of ore from the “El Cobre” -and reported it “medium rich in quality and very plentiful in quantity.” -Tezel spent the remainder of his life, 20 years, in exploiting the -copper of that section. - -Up to 1545 Juan Lobera had shipped 9,000 pounds of Cuban Copper to -Spain. In the spring of 1547 still further shipments that had arrived in -Seville and were ordered cast into artillery to be placed in the first -fort in Cuba, La Fuerza, for the protection of the City of Havana. Three -cannon were cast, of which one, a falconet, burst in the making, and was -perhaps responsible for the report that Cuban copper was of “an -intractable quality.” - -Don Gabriel Montalvo, appointed Governor of Cuba in 1573, was much -impressed by the reports he had heard of the rich copper deposits near -the city of Santiago de Cuba, and visited some of the old workings, but -found the native Cubenos very reluctant to give him information in -regard to mineral deposits, fearing evidently that they would be -compelled to work in them as miners. - -A copper deposit was soon afterwards found near Havana, and samples of -ore were forwarded to Spain with the request that 50 negroes be detailed -to exploit the mine. The quality of the ore was apparently satisfactory -for the casting of cannon, and the king ordered that it be used for -ballast in ships returning from Havana, in order to furnish material for -the Royal Spanish Navy. - -In 1580, some mining was done, but the find soon proved to be a pocket -and not a true vein, and the cost of transportation to Havana was -declared prohibitive, in spite of the fact that it showed a “fifth part -good copper.” Other copper mines were afterwards reported in the -neighborhood of Bayamo, near the southeastern center of the Province of -Oriente. - -In May, 1587, although comparatively little copper had been taken from -“El Cobre” mine, due largely to lack of food crops in the vicinity with -which to supply the slaves, the Governor reported that “There is so much -metal, and the mines are so numerous that they could supply the world -with copper, and only lately there is news of a new mine of even better -metal than the rest.” - -Effective work in these mines began in 1599. The much needed protection -from the incursion of pirates and privateers, that had long preyed on -Spain’s possessions in the West Indies, revived industries of all kinds -in Cuba, especially copper mining and ship-building. Juan de Texeda, who -had been commissioned by the King to go to Havana and do what he could -towards protecting the rich shipments of gold that were being sent from -Mexico to Spain against the attacks of the English Admiral, Drake, -sampled Cuban copper and pronounced it excellent. On the site of the -present Maestranza Building, now devoted to the Department of Public -Works and the Public Library, Texeda soon established a foundry, where -he “cast the copper into both cannon and kettles.” - -The mining of copper with profit depends on the price of the metal in -the market and on the cost of extracting and transporting the ore to the -smelter. This, of course, is true with all metals, hence it frequently -happens that mines containing abundant ore are not worked, owing to the -fact that the cost of production, when taken into consideration with the -market price, eliminates the possibility of profit. During the past -century the mines of “El Cobre” and vicinity, the extent of whose -deposits seem to be almost unlimited, have been worked at such times and -to such an extent as the market price of the ore would seem to justify. - -Indications, such as boulders that through seismic disturbances or -erosion seem to have rolled down from their original beds, and -occasional outcroppings of copper-bearing ore, are found in every -Province of the Island, although up to 1790 but few explorations worthy -of mention were made outside of the Province of Oriente. The demands for -metals of all kinds, especially chrome, manganese and copper, have -resulted in more or less desultory prospecting since 1915, which has -resulted in finding outcroppings of copper scattered throughout the -mountains of Pinar del Rio. Claims have been located near Mantua, -Vinales, Las Acostas, Santa Lucia, Pinar del Rio, and at various places -between La Esperenza and Bahia Honda along the north coast. - -Reports of copper or “claims,” resulting from traces found, have been -made also in the Isle of Pines and at Minas, only a short distance east -of the city of Havana, in that province. Copper claims have been -registered near Pueblo Nuevo, too, in the Province of Matanzas. In the -province of Santa Clara, claims have been recorded in the districts of -Cienfuegos, Trinidad and Sancti Spiritus. Several very promising copper -mines have been opened up in this province that will undoubtedly yield a -profit if worked under intelligent management and with the judicious -employment of capital. In the Province of Camaguey, copper has been -discovered near Minas, and as several different places along the line of -the Sierra de Cubitas. In Oriente, copper claims have been registered -near Holguin and Bayamo, while “El Cobre,” of course, has been famous -for its yield of ore since the days of the Spanish conquerors. - -The excessive demand for copper resulting from the War in Europe, -together with the high prices offered for that metal, recalled the fact -that many years ago Spanish engineers and prospectors, among the hills -of Pinar del Rio, frequently found small outcroppings of copper ore, and -in some cases sank shafts for short distances, where the ore had been -removed and carried to the coast on mule back. The low price of copper -at that time, however, and the scarcity of labor following the abolition -of slavery at the conclusion of the Ten Years’ War, discouraged serious -work on the part of the old timers, traces of whose efforts still remain -at various points along the northern slope of the Organos Mountains. - -The first record we have of the exploration of the mineral zone in which -the famous copper mine of this Province was discovered, dates back to -1790, but it resulted in no definite or profitable work. An English -company of which General Narciso Lopez was president, during the early -part of the 19th century, made some explorations in the district of El -Brujo and Cacarajicara, located in the mountains back of Bahia Honda; -but the defeat of Lopez’s revolutionary forces, and his subsequent -execution in 1851, put an end to the effort. - -Shortly after the Spanish American War, Col. John Jacob Astor, the -American millionaire, became interested in the copper deposits of Pinar -del Rio, which resulted in the establishment of several claims, none of -which, however, were developed. Shortly after this a Mr. Argudin located -claims known as Regelia and Jesus Sacramento, the former only two -kilometers from that of the mine Matahambre. A small amount of -preliminary work was done, but apparently proved unpromising. - -In 1912 Alfredo Porta, a well-known citizen and politician of Pinar del -Rio, interested Mr. Luciano Diaz, a former Secretary of the Treasury and -a man of some means, in a claim which he had denounced some eight -kilometers back from La Esperanza, on the north coast of the province. -Messrs. Porta and Diaz secured the services of an experienced mining -engineer, Mr. Morse, who visited the district, made a careful survey of -the claim, and informed the owners that in his estimate Matahambre was -worthy of the investment of any amount of capital, since the grade of -the ore, and the amount exposed through Mr. Morse’s preliminary work, -was sufficient to place it in the list of paying mineral properties. - -Work began at Matahambre in the early part of 1913 under the technical -direction of C. L. Constant, of New York. During the first year a number -of galleries, only a little below the surface, were thrown out in -different directions. Paying ore found in these galleries was very -promising. The first two carloads of ore, shipped by rail from the City -of Pinar del Rio to Havana, sold for a sufficient amount of money to pay -for all of the preliminary work that had been done. In 1915, a shaft was -sunk to a depth of 100 feet and afterwards carried down to the 400-foot -level, where it about reached the level of the sea. Later this shaft was -sent down 150 feet further. The ore taken out at the 400-foot level -proved to be the highest grade of all found, although it is said that no -ore was encountered at any depth that was not of sufficient value more -than to pay for the cost of mining. In fact the percentage of gold and -silver in many cases has paid for the expense of mining the copper. In -1918, six shafts, known as 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, were in operation, and -all yielding excellent ore. There are some 15 different varieties of -copper ore taken from Matahambre. - -The ore for some time was conveyed to the docks at Santa Lucia with mule -teams and motor trucks. These were eventually replaced by wire cables -and the ore was sent to the coast by gravity, greatly decreasing the -cost of transportation. Splendid wharves and receiving sheds, dumps, -etc., have been built at Santa Lucia, whence the ore is lightered out to -deep water anchorage. Fully 300 tons a day are now being removed and -conveyed to the landing. An average of 8,000 tons a month is shipped in -steamers that can take aboard 800 tons a day. This mineral is consigned -to the United States Metal Refining Company. In 1916, thirty-three -steamers carried 75,000 tons of mineral to this Company. - -Quite a little city has sprung up around the mine, and 2,000 men are -given employment by the Company. Comfortable quarters have been erected -for the officials, employees and other members of the force. A large -amount of ore was mined in 1918 and held for the completion of a new -concentration plant, which will enable the Company to utilize ore which -under war freight rates would not have been profitable to export. -Following the demise of Sr. Luciano Diaz, his son Antonio Diaz assumed -control and is carrying on the work of the proposed improvements. - -At the time of the closing of the Spanish régime in Cuba, fourteen -mineral claims had been made in the Province of Pinar del Rio. Between -1909 and 1911, 212 were denounced, including 48 of the Company headed by -Mr. Astor. From 1911 to 1918, 2970 claims were registered in the Bureau -of Mines. A large proportion of the interest in copper mining in Pinar -del Rio was undoubtedly the result of the wonderful wealth that has come -from Matahambre, the ore from which mined in 1916 was valued at -$5,500,000. - -Not until the early part of the 19th century did the presence of those -enormous deposits of iron ore found throughout the mountain districts of -Oriente present themselves to the outside world as a profitable -commercial proposition. - -Nearly all of the great iron deposits of Oriente lie within a few feet -of the surface; and on the southern slopes of the Sierra Maestra it is -necessary only to scrape the dirt from the side of the hills, take out -the ore and send it down to the sea coast by gravity. Similar conditions -exist at the Mayari mines on the north coast, just back of Nipe Bay, -where the deposits need nothing but washing with cold water. The soil -being thus removed at little cost, the iron is ready for shipment to the -smelters of the United States. - -In spite of the fact that this ore was found to be equal to the best -Swedish, and that nature in her own laboratories had supplied the -requisite amount of nickel and manganese, making these mines of Oriente -perhaps the most valuable in the world, but little attention has been -paid to this marvellously rich source of minerals, beyond those few who -are drawing dividends from the industry. The recent purchase of the -Spanish American Iron Company’s holdings at Daiquiri for $32,000,000, -however, has called the attention of mining interests in the United -States to the fact that millions of tons of untouched ore still lie in -the eastern provinces of Cuba. Twenty-five percent of the area of -Oriente contains wonderful deposits of ore, mostly iron, and awaits only -the necessary capital to place it on the markets of the world. - -This nickeliferous iron ore, in which the presence of nickel, so -essential to the making of steel, has been contributed by nature in just -the right proportions, is found in large quantities also in the -provinces of Camaguey and Pinar del Rio. The extent of these mineral -deposits is not yet known, but millions of tons are in sight, awaiting -only cheap transportation to bring them into the markets of the world, -where the grade and quality of the ore will undoubtedly command -satisfactory prices. - -Up to the present time nearly all of the iron ore exported from Cuba -comes from the large deposits of Oriente. The iron on the south coast is -loaded into the steamers from the wharves at Daiquiri and Juraguay. That -on the north coast, brought down from the Mayari mines, is shipped from -the harbor of Nuevitas. - -Below are given the tons of copper and iron shipped from Cuba during the -year from July, 1917, to June, 1918: - - IRON COPPER - tons tons - July to December, 1917 272,403 41,809 - January to June, 1918 218,301 52,569 - Total 490,704 94,378 - -On the south side of the Sierra de Cubitas, in the Province of Camaguey, -a distinctly marked zone of this excellent iron ore runs parallel to the -main chain of the Cubitas for many miles. Grass covered hills, rising -more or less abruptly from the surface, seem to be composed of solid -masses of iron ore. So great is the value of this mineral zone that the -North Shore Road of Cuba, now under construction and practically -completed from its eastern deep water terminus on Nuevitas Harbor to the -Maximo River just east of the Sierra de Cubitas, was primarily intended -as a means of exploiting and conveying the ore from this zone to the sea -coast. - -In the western portion of the Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio, other -deposits of nickeliferous iron have been denounced and registered, -although the cost of building a railroad to deep water on the north -coast up to the present prevented the development of the mines, located -about 20 miles southeast of Arroyo de Mantua. - -With the enormous amount of constructive work that will undoubtedly -follow the great European War, in which iron and steel will play such an -important part, there is every reason to believe that capital will be -forthcoming with which to build the necessary roads and to develop the -nickel bearing iron ores of Cuba. - -Structural steel, today and in the future, will probably play a greater -part in the world’s progress and development than any other one of the -products of nature. The demand for steel, of course, was greatly -accentuated by the European conflict, without which modern warfare would -be practically impossible. The splendid steel turned out in our mills of -today would be impossible of manufacture without the addition of a -certain percentage of either manganese or chrome. The alloys of these -two metals with iron gives steel its elasticity, hardness and real -value. - -Manganese ores are found in California, Colorado, Arkansas, Georgia, -Michigan, New Jersey and Virginia, but nowhere within the limits of the -United States have the United States have the deposits of manganese -proved to be sufficiently extensive to supply the domestic requirements -of the country, even in normal times. The total output of manganese in -the United States in 1901 was less than 12,000 tons. Southern Russia -contains very large deposits of the metal, but up to 1919, 70% to 80% of -the manganese consumed in the United States had been brought from the -interior of Southern Brazil. - -The immediate and imperative demand for both manganese and chrome, -impelled the Government at Washington to seek other sources, closer by, -in order to save the time consumed in securing shipments from Brazil. - -Small amounts of manganese had been secured from Cuba during the ten -years previous to the War, but the extent of these deposits remained -unknown until, in the spring of 1918, the United States Geological -Survey and Bureau of Mines sent two expert engineers, Messrs. Albert -Burch, consulting engineer of the Bureau of Mines, and Ernest F. -Burchard, geologist of the United States Geological Survey, to Cuba in -order to ascertain the quality and quantity of manganese and chrome that -might be furnished by that Republic. - -The party reached Havana in the latter part of February, and were there -joined by Sr. E. I. Montoulieu, a Cuban mining engineer, detailed by the -Treasury Department to act as an escort and associate throughout -research work in the Island. During the two months of their stay these -gentlemen made a rapid survey of the more important chrome and manganese -zones, the report of which was made to the United States Government in -September of 1918. - -The chrome deposits, which up to the time of the visit of these -engineers had attracted attention in Cuba, are all located within -distances varying from ten to twenty-five miles from the north coast of -the Island. Some twelve groups were examined which displayed -considerable diversity in quality, size and accessibility. - -Manganese claims have been registered near Mantua and Vinales, in the -Province of Pinar del Rio, but time did not permit an extended study of -those deposits. Valuable manganese deposits of known value are found -also in the districts of Cienfuegos and Trinidad in the Province of -Santa Clara. By far the largest deposits of this ore, and the only ones -that are being extensively worked, are located in the Province of -Oriente. - -The most westerly deposit of chrome visited was found in the eastern -part of Havana province, and two others were located, one near Coliser, -in the Province of Matanzas, another near Canasi, and a third near the -automobile drive about half way between the City of Matanzas and -Cardenas. In the province of Camaguey, only a few miles north of the -city, valuable deposits of chrome were found quite accessible to the -railroad for shipment. Other chrome deposits were found in Oriente; one -near Holguin, another south of Nipe Bay, and three groups in the -mountains not far from the coast between Punta Corda and Baracoa. - -All of the chrome deposits examined by these engineers were found in -serpentinized basic rocks. The ore lies in lenticular and tabular -masses, ranging in thickness from one to more than fifty feet. The ore -is generally fine grained to medium coarse, and runs from spotted -material, consisting of black grains of chromite ranging in diameter -from 1/30 to 1/4 of an inch, embedded in light green serpentine, to a -solid black material containing little or no visible serpentine. - -Most of the masses of ore are highly inclined and certain of them are -exposed in ravines, on steep hillsides and in mountainous or hilly -regions. The deposits west of Nipe Bay are in areas of moderate relief, -and those near Camaguey are in an area of very low relief. The deposits -in the eastern part of Oriente, which are the largest visited, are in a -mountainous country and very difficult of access. - -In Havana Province small pockets of chrome ore have been found about two -miles south of Canasi, ten miles from the railroad. A little mining has -been done and about 600 tons of ore shipped. - -In Matanzas Province small deposits of chrome were visited on the “Jack” -claim, seven miles northwest of the railroad station on Mocha, and on -the Anna Maria claim ten miles west of Cardenas. The latter is only two -miles from the railroad but no ore had been shipped from it. -Considerable development work has been done on the “Jack” claim and -about 450 tons of ore were on hand in February of 1918. - -Another promising claim was located in a group of several serpentine -hills that rise from the comparatively level surface about a mile north -of kilometer 36, on the automobile drive between Cardenas and Matanzas. -The outcropping chrome and loose lumps of float, found on the surface, -were of high grade, exceeding probably 50%. - -Since the visit of the American engineers another very promising -chromite claim has been located some four kilometers from the railroad, -near Coliseo, in the Province of Matanzas. The owners of this claim -announce an unlimited quantity of good grade ore, and were shipping in -the winter of 1918 and 1919 two carloads of ore per day to the United -States by rail, using the Havana and Key West Ferry. Messrs. Burch and -Burchard state in their report that the geological conditions in the -areas referred to above warrant further exploration. - -The deposits of chrome examined in Camaguey consist of three groups, -which lie along a narrow zone, beginning nine miles north of the City of -Camaguey and extending southeast to a point only two miles from Alta -Gracia, on the Nuevitas Railroad. A level plain, covered with a thin -mantle of clay and limonite gravel, extends from the City of Camaguey -northward until its junction with the hills of the Sierra de Cubitas, -rendering the country easily accessible by wagon road. Float ore is -found in this zone, and broken ore caps some ten or twelve small hills -that rise from five to fifty feet above the surrounding surface. In this -zone there are also fifteen or more other outcroppings of chromite, -most of them obscured by broken ore and rock debris. Prospecting has -been done here to obtain samples of ore for analysis, but it has not -shown either the nature or the extent of the deposits. On the surface, -however, there is a considerable quantity of ore in the form of broken -rocks or coarse float, probably 20,000 tons. - -Ten samples of ore from the deposits near Camaguey contain from 27% to -36% of chromic oxide. Only two produced less than 30% while a few ran -above 35%. This is a low grade ore but is suitable for certain purposes. -If it should require concentration, sufficient water is available in -small streams within a mile of the deposit. - -Twenty miles north of Camaguey, near the eastern end of the Cubitas iron -ore beds, are several other deposits of chrome that were examined by A. -C. Spencer of the United States Geological Survey in 1907. All of these -denoted noteworthy quantities of chrome float, apparently of high grade, -and the occurrence of tabular bodies of chrome from one to five feet in -width. On one claim boulders of chrome ore are distributed over a belt -of some 1700 feet, and on another, fragments of ore are found in an area -150 by 250 feet. On still another claim, five deposits lie within an -area measuring 1200 by 3000 feet. One of these seems to be continuous -for something over 900 feet. - -Both chrome and manganese are scattered throughout various sections of -Oriente and the largest deposits of these minerals as well as those of -iron are located in this Province. Small deposits of chrome are located -some seven miles northeast of Holguin, on the slopes of a low ridge of -serpentine that lies between two higher ridges of steeply inclined -limestone, about a half mile distant from each other. One pocket had -yielded about 150 tons of ore, which with 25 tons of float was ready for -shipment in March, 1918. Analysis of samples showed an average of 34% of -chromic oxide. The maximum content of chromium in pure chromite is -46.66% and the content of chromic oxide is 68%. Late in July of that -year the company’s consulting engineer reported that a large body of 40% -ore had been developed, and that in all about 500 tons were ready for -shipment. - -One of the larger deposits of chrome that gives promise of a -considerable output is located on the south slope of the Sierra de Nipe, -about seven miles southeast of Woodfred, the headquarters of the Spanish -American Iron Company’s Mayari mines. The upper part of the ore body -crops out of a steep hillside about 300 feet above a mountain stream, -flowing into a small tributary of the Mayari River, and seems to be from -ten to thirty feet in thickness. Where it does not crop out, it lies -from 30 to 50 feet below the surface. The ore varies in quality, the -better grade carrying as high as 48% of chromic oxide, with 7% to 15% of -silica, and 7% to 10% of iron. The deposit was estimated to contain -about 50,000 tons of chrome ore, 25,000 tons of which would carry more -than 40% of chromic oxide and the remaining 25,000 tons between 34% and -40%. - -The Cayojuan group of chrome ore claims are located on both sides of a -small river emptying into Moa Bay, and lie at an altitude of about 750 -feet above the sea level. An outcrop that extends around the hill for -about 300 feet, and covers some 6,400 square feet, has been prospected. -Samples on analysis gave an average of 38.1% chromic oxide. - -The Narciso claim, which nearly surrounds the above group, includes an -ore body that crops out on a steep hillside, about 500 feet above the -river. A sample of ore from this outcrop showed an analysis of 34.8% of -chromic oxide. - -The Cromita claims, one the left side of the river, contain three known -ore bodies, and hundreds of tons of boulder float ore, in an arroyo or -gulch. The ore bodies are exposed on the side of a bluff at a height of -150 to 300 feet above the river. The most northerly ore body shows a -face 20 feet wide and 15 feet high. The middle body includes an outcrop -75 feet long and 50 feet high and has been penetrated by cutting a -tunnel. Geological conditions would indicate that these bodies are -connected within the hill. Samples of these ores on analysis varied from -26% to 40.5% of chromic oxide. - -The deposits of the Cayojuan group contain probably about 22,500 tons of -available chrome ore, but may run as high as 60,000 tons. These -estimates include 2,000 tons of float ore in the Cayojuan River and the -tributary arroyo. The group of deposits is about eight miles by mule -trail from an old wharf at Punta Gorda, to which a road will have to be -built along the valley of the Cayojuan, a narrow gorge bordered in many -places by steep cliffs. A light tramway for mule cars, or a narrow gauge -steam railway, will probably be the most economical way of removing the -ore. - -The Potosi chrome claim is located on Saltadero Creek four miles above -its mouth. This is a tributary of the Yamaniguey River. The ore body is -a steeply dipping lens that reaches a depth of more than 100 feet and at -one place has a thickness of 250 feet with a length along the strike, of -45 feet. The upper edge crops out about 325 feet above the creek bed, -and about 600 feet above sea level. The ore is medium to coarse grained. -Some of the material in the drifts is spotted but most of the -outcropping and float ore is black and of good appearance. According to -the analysis that accompanied the report of G. W. Maynard, the -representative ore contains 35% to 41% chromic oxide. This deposit -contains from 10,000 to 20,000 tons and the work of getting the ore to -the coast involves rather a difficult problem in transportation. - -A small body of chrome ore occurs on the Constancia claim, -three-quarters of a mile south of Navas Bay, and about 100 feet above -the sea level. The ore body appears to extend about 50 feet along the -face of a gently sloping hill. It is not of a uniform quality, being -largely a spotted ore; that is chromite mixed with serpentine ganue. -About six feet of better ore, however, is exposed in a cut some 25 feet -in length. This contains 39.4% chromic oxide. Water for concentration is -available near by in the Navas River, and a road could easily be built -to the bay, but this is not deep enough for steamers, so it would have -to be lightered four miles north to Taco Bay, or ten miles southeast to -Baracoa. Another body containing about 10,000 tons of chrome ore of -low-grade lies in the mountain eight miles south of Navas Bay. - -The reserves of marketable chrome ore that have been prospected in Cuba -up to the summer of 1918, range from 92,500 long tons to 170,000. The -largest known deposits of chrome ore, or at least the largest of those -visited by the engineers Burch and Burchard in the spring of 1918, are -those of the Caledonia, and the Cayojuan and the Potosi claims, near the -northeast coast of Oriente Province, in a region of rather difficult -access. According to indications, they will probably yield 130,000 tons -of ore, most of which can be brought to the present commercial grade by -simple concentration. - -The next largest group of chrome ore deposits is near Camaguey. They are -very easy of access, but are of a lower grade than those of Oriente. -They appear to contain a maximum of about 40,000 tons of ore that can be -gathered by hand from the surface. - -Near Holguin, Cardenas and Matanzas, are small stocks of ore ready for -shipment, perhaps 1,000 tons. The most productive chrome mine operating -in the fall of 1918 seemed to be that of the “Britannia Company,” -located about twelve miles southwest of Cardenas and about 80 miles from -Havana. Two carloads a day were being shipped by rail from Coliseo to -Havana, and thence by ferry to Key West and northern smelters. - -The manganese ores of Cuba occur principally in sedimentary rocks such -as limestone, sandstone and shale, that in places have become -metamorphosed, but in the most heavily mineralized zones are associated -with masses of silicious rocks, locally temed “jasper” and “byate.” In -one locality the manganese and its silicious associates were found in -igneous rocks, such as Latite-porphyry and Latite. The sedimentary rocks -with which manganese deposits are usually associated are in some places -nearly horizontal, but generally show dips ranging from a few degrees to -forty-five or more. The inclined beds usually represent portions of -local folds. Some faulting is shown in the vicinity of various manganese -deposits and may have influenced the localization of the deposits. - -Manganese ore is found in Oriente, Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio -provinces, but only in Oriente has it been found in large commercial -quantities. In Oriente the deposits are in three areas, one north and -northeast of Santiago de Cuba, another south of Bayamo and Baire, and -the third on the Caribbean coast between Torquino Peak and Portillo. The -first two include the most extensive deposits on the Island. In Santa -Clara ore has been found near the Caribbean coast west of Trinidad, and -in Pinar del Rio Province manganese ore occurs north of the city of -Pinar del Rio and farther west near Mendoza. - -The deposits of the northeast coast and those south of Bayamo, distant -from each other approximately 100 miles, show nevertheless an -interesting concordance in altitude. They stand from 500 to 1200 feet -above sea level and nearly all of them are at altitude near 600 and 700 -feet, suggesting a relation between the deposition of the manganese and -a certain stage in the physiographic development of the region. Most of -the manganese ore deposits are above drainage level, on the slopes of -hills of moderate height, the maximum relief in the immediate vicinity -of the deposits seldom exceeding 500 feet. - -The deposits of manganese ore examined in Cuba are rather diverse, but -may be grouped into three general physical types--buried deposits, -irregular masses associated with silicious rock or “jaspar,” and -deposits in residual clay. The buried deposits comprise several -varieties, one of the most common being of poorly consolidated beds of -sandy chloritic material, cemented, with manganese oxides, that fill -inequalities in the surface of hard rocks. Other bedded deposits clearly -replace limestone, shale conglomerate or other rocks, and tabular masses -of ore are interbedded with strata of nearly horizontal limestone. The -ore consists largely of Pyrolusite, but many deposits contain -Psilomelane, Manganite and Wad, or mixtures of all these materials. The -richness of the deposits varies considerably. Most of the richest masses -are associated with the “jaspar,” but masses that have replaced -limestone are also very rich. - -The deposits of manganese examined in the Santiago district comprise the -Ponupo Group, the Ysobelita, Botsford, Boston, Pilar, Dolores, Laura, -San Andrea, Cauto or Abundancia, Llave and Gloria Mines, together with -the Caridad and Valle prospects. All of these properties except the two -prospects are producing ore. The Ponupo, Ysobelita and Boston mines were -opened many years ago and have produced a large quantity of ore. The -Ponupo and Ysobelita are still relatively large producers, though the -grade of ore is not so high as that shipped in the earlier days. The -Ponupo mine is connected with the Cuba Railroad at La Maya by a branch -two miles long, and a narrow gauge track from Cristo, on the Cuba -Railroad, runs to the Ysobelita mine three miles distant. Extensions of -this line to the Boston and Pilar mines can be made with little -additional outlay. The Dolores and Laura mines are near the Guantanamo & -Western Railroad, not far from Sabanilla station, and the Cauto mine is -adjacent to the Cuba Railroad at Manganeso Station. The other mines are -from one to eight miles from the railroad, to which the ore is hauled -mainly by oxcarts. In the rainy season these roads are impassable, and -even in the dry season they include many difficult places, so that the -quantity of the output is much less than could be mined under different -circumstances. - -The ore is mined by hand, mostly from open cuts, though short drifts -and tunnels have been run into lenses of ore at the Ponopu, Cauto and -Laura mines, and a slope has been driven on a thin tabular mass of ore -between strata of limestone, dipping about 34 degrees, at the Botsford. - -High grade ore may be selected in mining the richer parts of these -deposits, but most of it requires mechanical treatment, such as long -washing and jigging to free it from clay, sand and other impurities. At -one mine the ore is cleaned by raking over a horizontal screen in a -stream of water. Log washers are in operation at some mines and under -construction at others. At one time a system of washing, screening and -jigging is employed. They daily production of manganese ore in March, -1918, from this district, was about 300 tons. - -The approximate average composition of the ore now shipped is as -follows: - - Manganese 38.885% - Silica 12.135% - Phosphorus .084% - Moisture 11.201% - -The greater part of the manganese ore from this district contains from -36% to 45% manganese, a few thousand tons running over 45%. - -The manganese deposits examined by Messrs. Burch and Burchard south of -Bayamo consist of the Manuel, Costa group, 18 to 23 miles by wagon road -southwest of Bayamo; the Francisco and Cadiz groups, 15 and 20 miles -southeast of the same city; and Guinea, Llego and Charco Redondo, seven -to eight miles southeast of Santa Rite; and the Adriano and San Antonio -mines, 9 to 10 miles south of Bayari. Other deposits, further to the -southeast, are in what is known as the Los Negros district. But little -mining has been done so far in this district. Deposits of milling ore -are available and will undoubtedly be developed later if prices remain -favorable. - -It was estimated in April, 1918, that the output of manganese from this -district, during 1918, would not exceed 12,000 tons, half of which would -be high-grade ore carrying from 45% to 55% of manganese. Later -developments, however, indicated a much larger output. - -The reserve of manganese ore in this section was estimated at about -50,000 tons, but this does not include the Los Negros district which -lies further southeast, 25 to 35 miles from the railroad. Engineers who -have examined this zone believe that with good transportation facilities -it will yield a large output of high-grade ore from many small deposits. - -Aside from difficult transportation facilities in some districts, one of -the chief obstacles in the way of a large yield of ore from the mines -has resulted from an inability to hold a sufficient number of miners at -certain mines, owing to an inadequate supply of foodstuffs. Many workmen -preferred to work in the sugar mills where good food was more readily -obtained and living conditions were easier. Lack of explosives also -handicapped mining in some districts. The building of narrow gauge -railroads in which the Cuban Federal Government will probably assist -will greatly contribute to the successful or profitable mining of -manganese in the Province of Oriente. The fact that most of the ore is -removed during the dry season, when the Cuba Company’s roads are taxed -to the limit in conveying sugar cane to the mills, also renders -transportation by rail rather uncertain. - -Despite the handicaps outlined above, operators of manganese mines are -striving to increase their output, and there is a strong interest taken -everywhere in Cuba in developing manganese prospects. If railway cars -and ships are provided for transporting the ore, food for the mine -laborers, and explosives for blasting, the outlook for a steadily -increasing production is good. The output for 1918 was estimated at -between 110,000 and 125,000 tons, more than 90% of which runs from 36% -to 45% manganese, the remainder being of a higher grade. The reserves -of manganese ore in the mines above referred to in Oriente Province are -estimated at from 700,000 to 800,000 tons, 85% of which is located in -the district northeast of Santiago. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM - - -The presence of bituminous products in Cuba has been a matter of record -since the days of the early Spanish conquerors. Sebastian Ocampo, that -adventurous follower of Columbus, in the year 1508 dropped into one of -the sheltered harbors of the north coast, not previously reported, in -order to make repairs on some of his battered caravels. Much to his -surprise and delight, while careening a boat to scrape the bottom some -of his men ran across a stream of soft asphalt or mineral pitch, oozing -from the shore near by. Nothing could have been more convenient for -Ocampo, and according to the early historians he made a very favorable -report on the advantages of Cuba for ship building. First she had well -protected harbors in plenty, with an abundance of cedar and sabicu from -which to cut planking; there were majagua, oak and other woods from -which to hew the timbers. Tall straight pines grew near the harbor of -Nipe that would do for masts. From the majagua bark and textile plants, -tough fibre could be obtained with which to make the rigging. Both iron -and copper were at hand for nails and bolts. All that was lacking seemed -to be the material for the sails, and even this could have been found -had he known where to look. - -So convenient did this harbor prove to the needs of Ocampo that he -called it Puerto Carenas, by which name it was known until 1519, when -the 50 odd citizens left by Velasco a few years before on the south -coast, where they had tried to found a city, moved up from the -Almandares to Puerto Carenas and straightway changed its name to the Bay -of Havana, by which it has since been known. - -The same little stream of semi-liquid asphalt can today be seen, issuing -from the rocky shore along the east side of the bay. This deposit was -mentioned by Oviedo in 1535, who referred also to other asphalt deposits -found along the north coast of what was then known as Puerto Principe. -These asphalt deposits, so close to the shore, were undoubtedly utilized -by the navigators of the 16th and following centuries in making repairs -to the numerous fleets that were kept busy plying between Spain and the -New World. - -Alexander Von Humboldt, who in the year 1800 came across from Venezuela -to Cuba to study the flora, fauna and natural resources of the Island, -mentioned what he called the petroleum wells of the Guanabacoa Ridge, -located not far from Havana, at a point once known as the mineral -springs of Santa Rita. Richard Cowling Taylor and Thomas C. Clemson, in -a book published in 1837, mentioned “the petroleum wells of Guanabacoa” -which had been known for three centuries and that were undoubtedly the -wells to which Baron Von Humboldt had previously referred. La Sagra, -too, in 1828, described petroleum fields located near Havana, and in -1829, Joaquin Navarro described several deposits of bituminous material -in a report which he made to the “Real Sociedad Patriotica.” - -The bituminous deposits referred to by Taylor and Clemson proved to be a -solid form of asphalt. It was afterward used in large quantities as a -substitute for coal. They speak of finding crude petroleum also, filling -the cavities in masses of chalcedony, only a few yards distant from the -asphalt. The place referred to was afterwards ceded to the mining -companies of Huatey and San Carlos, located twelve miles from Havana, -where may still be seen the original wells. - -In a report on bituminous products of the Island by G. C. Moisant, -reference is made to a liquid asphalt or petroleum found in Madruga, a -small town southeast of Havana. This petroleum product, according to -recent investigations, flows from cavities in the serpentine rocks -found near Madruga and surrounding towns. - -An oil claim was registered in 1867 near Las Minas, 18 kilometers east -of Havana, as the result of oil indications in the cavities of rocks -that cropped out on the surface. A well was opened that yielded some oil -at a depth of 61 meters. This was sunk later to 129 meters but -afterwards abandoned. Within the last few years several wells have been -drilled in the vicinity of the old Santiago claim and have produced a -considerable amount of oil. - -The General Inspector of Mines, Pedro Salterain, in 1880 reported the -presence of liquid asphalt, or a low grade of crude petroleum, that -flowed from a serpentine dyke, cropping out on the old Tomasita -Plantation near Banes, on the north coast some twenty miles west of -Havana. The product was used for lighting the estate. All of the wells -of this province are located on lands designated by geologists as -belonging to the cretaceous period. This is true of those properties -where indications of petroleum are found near Sabanilla de la Palma and -La Guanillas, in the Province of Matanzas. - -During a century or more, hydrocarbon gases have issued from the soil in -a district east of Itabo, in the Province of Matanzas. In 1880, Manuel -Cueto had a well drilled on the Montembo Farm in this district. He -finally discovered at a depth of 95 meters a deposit of remarkably pure -naphtha which yielded about 25 gallons a day. It was a colorless, -transparent, liquid, very inflammable, and leaving no perceptible -residue after combustion. Cueto afterwards opened another well to a -depth of 248 meters and there discovered a deposit of naphtha that -produced 250 gallons per day. According to T. Wayland Vaughn of the -United States Geological Service such gases are plentiful in the -surrounding hills. - -In June, 1893, commercial agents of the United States Government -reported that petroleum had been found near Cardenas of a grade much -better than the crude oils imported from the United States. In -November, 1894, another commercial agent from Washington reported that -asphalt deposits near the city of Cardenas could produce from a thousand -to five thousand tons of this material a year. - -In 1901 Herbert R. Peckham, describing asphalt fields east and south of -Cardenas, mentions the drilling of a well by Lucas Alvarez, in search of -petroleum, which he found at a depth of 500 feet, and from which he -pumped 1000 gallons of petroleum, but this exhausted the supply of the -well. As a result of investigations made by Mr. Peckham, seepages of -crude oil and liquid asphalt of varying density may be found here over a -district measuring about 4,500 square miles. - -Near the city of Santa Clara there is a petroleum field known as the -Sandalina, samples of which were analyzed by H. M. Stokes in 1890, which -he reported to be quite similar to the crude petroleum of Russia. In the -neighborhood of Sagua and Caibarien, in the northern part of Santa Clara -Province, petroleum fields have recently been discovered, and others in -the southern part of the Province of Matanzas. - -Large deposits of asphalt, of varying grades and densities, have been -found at intervals along the north coast of the Province of Pinar del -Rio. From the harbor of Mariel a narrow gauge road has been built back -to mines some six miles distant, over which, up to the beginning of the -European War, asphalt was brought to the waterside and loaded directly -into sailing vessels, bound for the United States and Europe. Other -deposits have been found at La Esperanza and Cayo Jabos, a little -further west along the same coast, and in the estimation of some well -informed engineers this Pinar del Rio coast furnishes the most promising -field for petroleum prospecting of all in Cuba. - -As a result of the petroleum excitement, brought about by reports of -surface indications and of the success of the Union Oil Company’s -drillings, many claims have been registered for both asphalt and -petroleum within recent years. Up to the last day of December, 1917, 215 -claims were filed in the Bureau of Mines, covering an area of about -25,000 acres. In the same time 88 claims, scattered throughout the -various Provinces, were registered for oil, comprising a total area of -about 40,000 acres. - -This scramble for oil lands has resulted in the formation of some fifty -different companies, most of which have issued large amounts of stock, -and many of which will properly come under the head of “wildcat” -adventures. This, however, has happened in other countries under similar -circumstances; notably in the United States. - -In the fall of 1918 some 15 companies were drilling for oil, most of -which yielded very little results. This was due in some instances to -inadequate machinery, and in others to inefficient workmen, together -with absolute lack of any definite knowledge of the district in which -they were working. In addition to this, nearly all of the wells drilled -have either found oil or stopped at a depth of 1000 feet. In only a few -instances have wells been sunk to a depth of 3000 feet, and most of -these were in a section where almost nothing was known of the geology of -the country. - -In Sabanilla de la Palma, the Cuban Oil and Mining Corporation drilled -to a depth of 1036 feet. On reaching the 120-foot level, they penetrated -a layer of asphalt four feet in thickness, and found petroleum in small -quantities at two other levels. At 1037 feet they met petroleum of a -higher grade, and are planning to sink the well to a depth of 4000 feet -with the idea of finding still richer deposits. - -About two kilometers west of Caimito de Guayabal, near the western -boundary of Havana Province, Shaler Williams has drilled several wells, -one to a depth of 1800 feet, which produced oil and gas, but in small -quantities. The gas has furnished him light and power on his farm for -several years. - -Since 1914 the Union Oil Company has been successfully exploiting the -Santiago claim near Bacuranao, some 12 miles east of Havana. During 1917 -and 1918, this company drilled ten wells with varying results. One of -these reached a depth of 700 feet, producing three or four barrels of -excellent petroleum per day, but was afterwards abandoned. Wells 2 and 3 -were abandoned at a depth of only a few hundred feet on account of -striking rock too difficult to penetrate. Well No. 4, at a depth of 560 -feet, produced oil at the rate of 10 to 15 barrels per day. No. 5 -yielded 400 barrels per day. No. 6 was abandoned at 1912 feet without -showing any oil. No. 7 yielded petroleum at 1000 feet, but only in small -quantities. No. 8, at 1009 feet, produces a good supply of oil. No. 9, -at the same depth, also produces oil, while No. 10, sunk to a depth of -1012 feet, produced a little oil at 272 and 1000 feet. These ten wells -have all been drilled in a restricted area measuring about 300 meters -each way. - -The crude petroleum of the Union Oil Company’s wells is of a superior -quality, analysis showing 13% gasoline and 30% of illuminating oil. -Between December, 1916, and June, 1918, these wells produced 1,740,051 -gallons of crude. This oil is at present sold to the West Indian -Refining Company at the rate of 12¢ per gallon. - -Just north of the Union Oil Company’s wells are what are known as the -Jorge Wells, where the Cuban Petroleum Company have been drilling for -oil since 1917. They sank one well to 840 feet, which at first produced -25 barrels a day, but afterwards dropped to two barrels a day, although -producing a great quantity of gas. Well No. 2 of this company, sunk to -111 feet, was abandoned. Well No. 3 produced 210 barrels the first day, -but afterwards dwindled to an average of 100 barrels a day. In the month -of June, 1918, 3,385 barrels of oil were produced, together with a large -amount of gas, that is consumed for fuel in the two furnaces of the -company. All of this petroleum is sold to the West Indian Refining -Company, of Havana. - -In another section of the Jorge Claim, the Republic Petroleum Company -drilled a well to a depth of 2,200 feet, finding petroleum at 995 feet. -East of the Santiago or Union Oil Company’s wells, the Bacuranao Company -sank a well to a depth of 1009 feet, that produced 12 barrels per hour -during several days. This company delivers its oil to market over the -Union Oil Company’s pipe lines. - -The wells drilled on the Union Oil Company’s property, together with -those of the Jorge claim, are all grouped in an area that does not -exceed 20,000 square meters. Nearly all have produced petroleum at a -depth of approximately 1000 feet, most of them in small quantities; but -they may nevertheless be considered as producing on a commercial basis, -since their product sells at a good price. - -The oil wells of Cuba so far have not produced anything like the -enormous quantities that issue from the wells in the United States and -Mexico, but the results are encouraging, especially since the -explorations so far have been confined to a very moderate depth, seldom -exceeding 1500 feet. It is quite probable that wells in this section -will be ultimately drilled to a depth of at least 4,000 feet. - -Petroleum, as we know, is found in many different kinds of geological -formations. In Pennsylvania we meet crude oil in the Devonic and -carboniferous strata; in Canada in the Silurian; in the State of -Colorado in the cretaceous; in Virginia in the bituminous coal lands; in -South Carolina in the Triassic; in Venezuela it occurs in mica -formations; while in the Caucasus again it is in the cretaceous. No -fixed rule therefore can be said to designate or control the geological -formation that may yield oil. - -All of the petroleum found in Cuba, so far, seems to have its origin in -cretaceous formations, corresponding probably to the Secondary. A -somewhat significant fact is that petroleum in this Island seems to be -invariably associated with igneous rocks. So far all of it, or at least -all in wells worthy of consideration, seems to come from deposits that -lie along the lines of contact between the serpentines and various -strata of sedimentary rocks. Up to the present, wells that have been -drilled in sedimentary strata, at any considerable distance from the -intrusion of serpentine rocks, have produced no results. - -E. de Goyler has reached the conclusion that the oils found below the -serpentine, or at points of contact between serpentine and sedimentary -rocks, had their origin in Jurassic limestone. Rocks of this period form -a large part of the Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio, and the above -quoted authority is confident that the asphalt and petroleum fields -found in the immediate vicinity of serpentine thrusts during volcanic -action are all filtrations from deposits far below the surface. This -view seems to agree with results of observation made in the neighborhood -of the Bacuranao oil fields, where the drills have usually penetrated a -considerable depth of serpentine rock before meeting the -petroleum-bearing strata of sand and limestone. - -Frederick C. Clapp, in his study of the structural classification of -fields of petroleum and natural gas, read before the Geological Society -of America, stated that in Cuba there are undoubtedly deposits which he -designates as coming from a subdivision of sedimentary strata, with -masses of lacolites, an unusual form of deposit, met in the Furbero -Petroleum fields of Mexico, where oil bearing strata lie both above and -below the lacolite. - -The consensus of opinion among experts who have examined the recent -explorations in the neighborhood of Bacuranao seems to be that in spite -of the fact that no oil well in Cuba, up to the present, has produced -large quantities of petroleum, there is excellent reason for believing -that wells drilled to a depth of three or four thousand feet, in zones -that have been carefully studied by competent geologists, may yet rival -in amount of production those of the best petroleum fields in other -parts of the world. - -The deposits of asphalt in Cuba, in view of the extensive road building -planned for this Republic, have an undoubted present and future value -well worthy of consideration. Asphalt of excellent quality, and of -grades varying all the way from a remarkably pure, clean liquid form, up -through all degrees of consistency to the hard, dry, vitreous deposits -that resemble bituminous coal sufficiently to furnish an excellent fuel, -is found in Cuba in large quantities. Most of it is easily accessible, -and of grades that command very good prices for commercial purposes in -the world’s markets. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -FORESTRY - - -The virgin forests of Cuba, at the time of the Spanish conquest, were -rich in hardwoods, such as mahogany, cedar, rosewood, ebony, lignum-vitæ -and many others unknown in the markets of the United States. During four -centuries these forests have been one of Cuba’s most important assets. -Unfortunately this source of wealth has been drawn upon without -forethought or discrimination since the first white settlers began to -use the products of the forest in 1515. - -The completion of the North Shore Railroad of Camaguey, extending from -Caibarien to Nuevitas, will soon open up the great hardwood forests of -the Sierra de Cubitas and add greatly to the wealth of that district. - -There are 367 varieties of valuable forest trees, described with more or -less detail in the Bureau of Forestry connected with the Department of -Agriculture of Cuba. More than half of these are susceptible of taking a -high polish, and would if known undoubtedly command remunerative prices -in the hardwood markets of the world. At the present time, two only, -cedar and mahogany, are sought and quoted in the commercial centers of -the United States. - -While we find in Cuba few forest trees common to the United States, -nearly all of the standard woods, such as oak, hickory, ash, maple, -beech and walnut, seem to have their equivalents, from the viewpoint of -utility at least, in the native woods of this Island. For purposes of -manufacture, carriage making, naval uses, house building, cabinet work -and fine carving, or general construction, Cuba has many woods of -unsurpassed merit and often of rare beauty. - -The following list contains 60 of the most useful woods found in the -forests of Cuba. Nearly all of these take a very high polish and are -valuable in the arts as well as for construction purposes. Not more than -a half dozen, unfortunately, are known to the hardwood trade, even by -name, and since most of these names are purely local, they would mean -little to the dealers outside of the Island of Cuba, where most of them -are in daily use; - - ACANA: indigenous to Cuba; grows to height of 50 feet with diameter - of two feet; hard, compact, deep wine color; used in general - construction work, and is especially valuable for making - carpenters’ planes and tools. Wears indefinitely. Sp. Gr. 1.28. - - ACEITILLO: indigenous; grows to height of 30 feet; common - throughout the Island; strong and tough; light yellow color; used - for general construction. Sp. Gr. 1.04. - - AITE: indigenous; grows to height of 25 feet; diameter 2 feet; of - common occurrence; strong and compact; light brown color; used in - cabinet work. Sp. Gr. 1.07. - - AYUA BLANCO: indigenous; 55 feet in height; 2 feet in diameter; - found in Pinar del Rio and Isle of Pines; soft; white in color; - used for boxes, beehives, cross beams; produces a gum used in - medicine. Sp. Gr. 0.72. - - ALMACIGO COLORADO: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 2 feet in - diameter; found everywhere; soft; reddish color, used for fence - posts and charcoal; has medicinal properties and produces resin. - Sp. Gr. 0.38. - - AMIQUA: indigenous; 40 feet in height; 7 feet diameter; hard, - compact, reddish in color; found in light soils; used for joists - and beams, and for wagons. Sp. Gr. 1.16. - - ALGARROBO: indigenous; 75 feet in height, diameter 4-1/2 feet; - strong; yellowish color; found in deep soils; used for building - purposes; yields a varnish and has medicinal properties. Sp. Gr. - 0.64. - - ATEJA MACHO: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 3 feet in diameter; - found throughout Island, also in Isle of Pines; flexible and hard; - grey in color; used in general construction and ship building; Sp. - Gr. 0.87. - - ATEJA HEMBRA: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 3 feet diameter; found - in Pinar del Rio; hard, compact and heavy grained; yellow in color; - found in deep soils; used for general carpenter work. Sp. Gr. 0.62. - - AGUACATILLO: indigenous; 55 feet in height; found all over Island, - including Isle of Pines; soft and light; light green color; found - in black lands; general carpenter work; Sp. Gr. 1.14. - - ARABO: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast; fibrous, - compact and strong; reddish brown color; used for poles and general - carpenter work; bears fruit eaten by cattle; takes beautiful - polish; Sp. Gr. 1.52. - - ABRAN DE COSTA: indigenous; found Pinar del Rio; strong, compact; - mahogany color; cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 0.97. - - BAGA: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast and on river - banks; very light in weight; greyish brown in color; used for fish - net floats; bears fruit eaten by cattle; Sp. Gr. 0.6. - - BARIA: indigenous; 50 feet in height; found all over Island, in - deep soil; easily worked, dark brown color; used in general - carpenter work; flowers produce feed for bees; takes a fine polish; - Sp. Gr. 0.78. - - BRAZILETE COLORADO: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast, - also in the savannas; excellent wood; reddish brown; used for - turning purposes and inlaid work; takes high polish; produces a - dye; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - BAYITO: indigenous; 30 feet in height; found in Pinar del Rio; hard - and compact; variegated brown color; used for frames, posts, etc.; - takes high polish. Sp. Gr. 1.25. - - CAGUAIRAN or QUIEBRA HACHA: indigenous; 45 feet height, 3 feet - diameter; found in Oriente; resists rot; compact, heavy and hard; - reddish brown color; used for beams, channel posts, etc. Sp. Gr. - 1.44. - - CANA FISTOLA CIMARRONA: indigenous; 45 feet in height, scattered - over Island; beautiful, strong and resistant wood; reddish in - color; adapted for tool handles. Sp. Gr. 0.87. - - CAIMITILLO: indigenous; 35 feet height; found all over Island; - hard, tough wood; used in carriage manufacture; bears fruit; Sp. - Gr. 1.1. - - CAREY DE COSTA: indigenous small tree, found on coasts and - savannas; heavy and brittle; dark tortoise shell color; takes - beautiful polish; used for cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.04. - - CERILLO: indigenous; 35 feet in height; diameter 18 inches; found - in western end of Island; excellent wood; yellow in color; used for - cabinet work; takes fine polish; Sp. Gr. 0.56. - - CARNE DE DONCELLA: indigenous; 50 feet height; 18 inches diameter; - common in forests; compact, tough and hard; rose color; grown in - rich lands; used for table tops and carriage work. Sp. Gr. 0.92. - - CHICHARRON AMARILLO: indigenous; 36 feet in height; 18 inches in - diameter; common in forests; strong, elastic and durable; dark - yellow color; used for posts, sleepers, channel stakes, etc. Sp. - Gr. 0.96. - - CHICHARRON PRIETO: indigenous; 36 feet height; 18 inches diameter; - strong solid wood; brown color; used in carriage work. - - CAOBA or MAHOGANY: five varieties of this tree; indigenous; 36 feet - in height, from six to twelve feet in diameter; grows all over the - Island; excellent and durable wood; color mahogany or dark red; - used for fine carpenter work and furniture; Sp. Gr. 1.45. - - CEDRO or CEDAR: four varieties; indigenous; 60 to 75 feet in - height; 6 feet in diameter; found all over Island; soft and easily - worked; light mahogany color; used in fine carpenter work; cabinet - work; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - CUYA O CAROLINA: three varieties; indigenous; very hard and - compact; light wine color; used for uprights, beams and - construction work. Sp. Gr. 1.02. - - DAGAME: indigenous; 40 to 45 feet in height; 18 inches in diameter; - grows on hilly land; strong and compact; yellowish grey color; used - for carpentry and carriage work; Sp. Gr. 0.74. - - ROYAL EBONY: indigenous; 34 feet in height; found on coast lands; - good wood; black in color; used for canes; inlaid work; familiar in - United States for fine cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.17. - - ESPUELA DE CABALLERO: indigenous; small tree, found all over - Island; excellent wood; yellow to red in color; used for fancy - canes, turning and inlaid work; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - FUSTETE: indigenous; 36 feet in height; found in dense forests or - Oriente and Camaguey; dark wine color; used for carpenter and - carriage work; is yellow dye wood; Sp. Gr. 1.32. - - GRANADILLIA: indigenous; 20 to 25 feet in height; small diameter; - hard, compact and tough; mottled brown and bright yellow in color; - used for fine inlaid work and canes; Sp. Gr. 0.89. - - GUAMA DE COSTUS: indigenous; 25 to 35 feet in height; hard, tough - and compact; light cinnamon color; used in construction work and - for ox-yokes and plows; Sp. Gr. 0.68. - - GUAYABO COTORRERO: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; small - diameter; all over Island; ductile, chrome yellow color; used for - cabinet work; tool handles; Sp. Gr. 0.92. - - GUARACAN PRIETO or Lignum Vitae: indigenous; 55 to 60 feet in - height; comparatively slender; found on coast; durable and compact; - dark brown mottled with yellow; used for turning, banisters, - croquet balls, and shaft bearings; Sp. Gr. 1.17. - - GUAYACAN BLANCO: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; slender, - strong and compact; light yellow color; grows on black lands; - especially useful for carriage and wagon spokes; Sp. Gr. 0.79. - - HUMUS: indigenous; hard compact and tough; blood red in color; - fine carpentry and cabinet work; furnishes a dye; Sp. Gr. 0.84. - - JIQUI: indigenous; 50 to 60 feet in height; 3 feet diameter; - strong, hard, durable, dark brown in color; found in all soils; - used for supports, posts, channel stakes and stakes for boundary - lines; never rots in swamp land; makes good charcoal. - - JUCARO PRIETO: two varieties; indigenous; 60 to 75 feet in height; - four feet in diameter; all over Island; very strong; impervious to - rot in swampy and bad lands; used for wagon and carpenter work; - especially adapted for pilings. - - JUCARO AMARILLO: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; slender; all - over the Island; strong and compact, yellow color, especially - adapted for posts and wagon axles; Sp. Gr. 1.13. - - JACARANDA: indigenous; 45 to 55 feet in height; strong, tough and - resistant; yellowish grey; carpenter and furniture work; Sp. Gr. - 0.89. - - JAGUA: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; 18 inches in diameter; - found all over Island; strong, elastic and durable; yellow in - color; adapted for carriage work, moulds, lances, etc. - - JATIA: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; 16 inches in diameter; - found in eastern end of Island; strong, hard and compact; dark - yellow; used in cabinet work and canes; Sp. Gr. 0.94. - - JAYAJABICO: indigenous; small tree, found in Pinar del Rio; hard, - tough and compact; light chestnut color; used in carriage work, - cabinet work, canes, etc.; Sp. Gr. 1.12. - - LEBRISA: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; eastern end of the - Island; strong and resistant; yellowish color; adapted for axles, - tillers, and general carpenter work; Sp. Gr. 1.00. - - MAJUGUA MACHO: indigenous; three varieties; 45 to 50 feet in - height; 3 feet in diameter; found all over Island; very resilient - and flexible; mouse color; variegated with black and cream - splashes used in fine cabinet and furniture work; also fine for - carriage work, knees and arches. From the inner bark natives braid - a strong picket rope in a few minutes; Sp. Gr. 0.59. - - MABOA: indigenous; 30 to 45 feet in height; 2 feet in diameter; - found in all forests; strong and compact, ash color; used for - beams, posts and also for cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.3. - - MANZANILLO: indigenous; 20 to 25 feet in height; 3 feet in - diameter; found on coast; good wood; yellowish grey color; found in - the low lands; used for furniture and fine cabinet work; Sp. Gr. - 0.7. - - MAMONCILLO: indigenous; 55 to 60 feet in height; 3 feet in - diameter; found all over the Island; hard and compact; light - mahogany color; yields an edible plum; used in cabinet work; Sp. - Gr. 0.85. - - MORAL NEGRO: found all over the Island, strong and solid; dark - chestnut color; used in fine carpentry and cabinet work; Sp. Gr. - 0.75. - - MORUO: indigenous; 50 to 60 feet in height; found in all forests; - good wood; wine colored; used for general carpentry and carriage - work; takes a high polish; Sp. Gr. 1.06. - - OCUJE: indigenous; 45 to 50 feet in height; strong, tough and - resistant; red color; used in carriage work and channel stakes; Sp. - Gr. 0.77. - - PALO DE LANZA: (lance wood) indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; - very resilient and flexible; light yellow color; used for yard - sticks, tool handles, light strong poles and wood springs; Sp. Gr. - 0.84. - - PALO CAMPECHE: (log wood) indigenous; 25 to 35 feet in height; - found in deep forests; hard, heavy and compact; deep purple color; - used for turning and produces log wood dye; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - ROBLE: five varieties; indigenous; 40 to 45 feet in height; good - wood, general carpenter work and shelving; Sp. Gr. 0.73. - - SABINA: indigenous; found in eastern end of Island; hard beautiful - wood, mottled chocolate color; furniture and general construction; - Sp. Gr. 0.65. - - SABICU: indigenous; very large tree, sometimes called imitation - mahogany; hard, tough and compact; mahogany color; used for rail - chalks, port holes of ships, wagons, etc. - - TAGUA: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; hard, compact and - durable; used for fine cabinet work and musical instruments; Sp. - Gr. 0.7. - - YABA: indigenous; 45 feet in height; abundant, strong and compact; - reddish color; used for wagon work, general construction and - turning; Sp. Gr. 0.88. - - TANA: indigenous; very hard, inflexible; grows in damp and sandy - soils; specially adapted for naval construction; Sp. Gr. 1.02. - - YAMAGUA: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; 20 inches in - diameter; excellent wood; reddish yellow; used in general - construction work; Spec. Gr. 0.7. - -Specimens of all these woods, together with some three hundred others, -form a collection that may be seen at any time at the Government -Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. - -Scattered throughout the broad grass covered savannas that lie along -some parts of the coast of Cuba, are found heavily wooded clumps of -forest trees, that stand up out of the grassy plains like islands, and -give rather a peculiar effect to the landscape. In these “Cayos de -Monte,” as they are called, are found nearly all of the small, hard and -durable woods of Cuba, such as Ebony, Lignum Vitae or Guayacan, -Grenadillo and others of similar character, that seldom make tall trees, -but that frequently have a value in the markets of the world that cause -them to be sold by the pound or hundredweight, instead of by board -measure. - -The great bulk of timber lands, or virgin forests of Cuba, are scattered -throughout the mountainous districts of the Island, mostly in Santa -Clara and Oriente, and belong to non-resident owners living in Spain. -While the timber is very valuable, the cost of cutting and getting out -the logs with the help of oxen, precludes any possibility of profit and -will insure their remaining untouched until less expensive methods are -found for their removal to the coast. The price of these lands vary at -the present time from $3 to $15 per acre, and they can be purchased only -in large tracts. - -In passing it may be mentioned that many of the forest lands of the -mountainous districts are located within the mineral zones of the -Island, but the purchase of the property does not carry with it a right -to the ore deposits that may lie below the surface. These can be -acquired only through registering mineral claims or “denouncements” in -accordance with the laws of the Republic. - -Along the southern coast of Cuba, bordering on the Caribbean, especially -in the Province of Camaguey, are still large areas of virgin forests -growing on low, flat lands. Some of these are traversed by streams, down -which the logs are rafted during the rainy season. - -Quite a large area of forest is still retained by the Government. The -sale of these lands is forbidden by law, although under certain -conditions they may be rented to private parties. Some of them have been -distributed among the veterans of the War of Independence. - -The total amount of forest still retained by the Republic is estimated -at 37,000 caballeries or 1,226,450 acres, of which 519,144 acres are -located in the Province of Oriente; 307,910 in Santa Clara; 148,200 in -Pinar del Rio; 113,620 in Matanzas; 88,130 in Camaguey and 49,400 in the -Province of Havana. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -AGRICULTURE - - -The Island of Cuba is essentially an agricultural country. Its fertile -soils have come from the constant erosion of rocks by heavy rains, -through eons of time. Mountain torrents have brought down the debris of -crumbling mountains of feldspar, shale and limestone to be deposited on -the plains below, while rushing streams have eaten their way into the -plateaus of Pinar del Rio and Oriente, until we have at last a -marvellously rich, tropical island garden, supplied by Nature with all -the ingredients needed to maintain its fertility for many centuries to -come. - -More important perhaps than fertility of soil, is the fact that Cuba -lies just within the edge of the Tropics, securing thereby an immunity -from snow, cold wind and frost. This enables her to grow many crops that -otherwise would be barred. More than all, those vegetables that in the -United States and more northern climes thrive during only a few months -of summer, may be grown in Cuba at almost any time in the year. - -On the other hand it is true that many of the great grain crops, such as -wheat, rye, oats and barley, cannot be successfully grown in Cuba, or at -least on only a few of the more elevated plateaus of Santa Clara and -Oriente. But, even were it possible to grow wheat in Cuba, it is more -profitable to buy grain from districts further north, giving in exchange -sugar, tobacco, henequen, coffee, cacao, hides, honey, citrus fruits and -winter vegetables. - -[Illustration: NATIONAL THEATRE, CENTRAL PARK, HAVANA - -The builders of the city of Havana through more than four centuries paid -commendable attention to the right placing of important buildings, not -only for convenience but also for picturesque and artistic effect. Thus -the National Theatre, one of the most commodious and beautiful -playhouses in the world, has for its setting the equally beautiful -Central Park, and is approached by the famous thoroughfare of the Prado. -Other notable public and private buildings are suitably grouped about -it, making a civic centre of rarely impressive appearance.] - -Freedom from frost means much to the agriculturist, since it relieves -him from the anxiety suffered by the farmers of Florida and the Gulf -States, that although lying on the other side of the Tropic of -Cancer, and enjoying sufficient warmth to produce vegetables during the -winter months, are nevertheless exposed to the danger of absolute ruin, -or at least the loss of a year’s work. - -[Illustration: CUBAN RURAL HOME] - -That, however, which favors successful agriculture in Cuba more than -anything else, is the fact that her copious rainfall begins in May, and -continuing throughout the warm months of summer terminates in the latter -part of October, leaving the winter cool and dry, so that fall crops may -ripen and be gathered free from danger of the cold, rainy days of -December so common in the Gulf States. - -In stock raising, also, not only is the Island supplied with an -abundance of nutritious grass, on which animals may graze throughout the -year, but the young are never subjected to loss from the cold winds, -sleets, and driving storms, that decimate the herds of less favored -countries in the North. - -Cuba undoubtedly has some agricultural drawbacks and disadvantages, but -few that may not be successfully overcome with intelligent management -and the judicious care which renders stock raising profitable in any -country. The one great advantage of the Republic lies in the fact that -the farmer, if he so desires, can put in three hundred and sixty five -days of every year at profitable work in his fields, orchards or -pastures, with no time necessarily lost. Nor is he compelled to work -half the year to provide food and fuel sufficient to feed and keep warm -during the remaining six months of comparative idleness. - -Owing to the exceptional natural facilities for producing sugar and -tobacco cheaply and easily, the farmers of Cuba largely become, in one -sense of the word, “specialists,” and little by little have fallen into -the habit of producing enormous crops of these two staples that are sold -abroad, while food crops are imported at an expense far above that which -it would cost to produce them in the Island. This neglect of food and -forage crops would seem to render Cuba an ideal place for the general -farmer and stock raiser, and the Department of Agriculture, under the -direction of General E. Sanchez Agramonte, is now making every effort to -place the advantages of the country for diversified farming before the -outside world, so that practical farmers and families from agricultural -districts abroad may be induced to come to Cuba and settle permanently. - -The Republic ultimately will raise her own live stock and should produce -sufficient corn, rice, beans, peanuts and perhaps wheat to be, to a -large extent at least, independent of the outside world. With this -purpose in view the Department of Agriculture has encouraged immigration -and through the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas is making -greater efforts than ever before to ascertain just what crops and what -seeds or plants are best adapted to the soil and climate of Cuba. - -This information is being gathered and carefully digested so that it may -be given to the homeseekers and settlers of which the country stands in -such urgent need. At the request of the Secretary of Agriculture, Dr. -Calvino, chief of the Government Station, together with his staff, is -searching for and bringing from all parts of the globe every plant and -every variety of animal that can be utilized for food purposes. - -Nearly every variety of wheat, corn, sorghum, rice, potatoes, grains and -tubers, is being tested and tried on the 160 acres of land belonging to -the station. Grapes, peaches, plums and other semi-tropical fruits are -being planted, experimented with and carefully watched for results, -while forage plants and grasses from South America, Africa, Australia, -India, China, Europe and the United States are being tried, each under -conditions approaching as nearly as possible those of its original -habitat. - -Although Cuba with its adjacent islands has an area of only about 45,000 -square miles--approximating the area of the State of Mississippi--one -finds many varieties of soil, the characteristics of which, even when -lying contiguous, are so varied as to be astounding. High and -comparatively dry plateaus, in places, rise almost abruptly from low -level savannas that remain moist in the driest seasons of the year. Rich -deep soiled mountain sides and valleys may be found within a few miles -of pine barrens, whose hillsides are valued only for the mineral wealth -that may lie beneath the surface. - -Great areas of rich virgin forest, in both mountain and plain, still -exist, especially in the eastern half of the Island, where many -thousands of acres in the open, if planted with suitable grasses, would -support countless herds of cattle and live stock. To bring all of this -territory as soon as possible into a state of profitable cultivation, -and thus supply permanent homes for farmers and stock raisers, is the -great aim and purpose of the Department of Agriculture in Cuba today, -and to the consummation of these plans Secretary Agramonte is devoted, -with a most able and energetic Assistant Secretary in Dr. Carlos -Armenteros. - -The great pressing problems of agriculture in the Republic would seem to -be quite sufficient for any one man’s energies, but, as the present -government was planned and organized, an enormous amount of additional -work, including the supervision of mines, forests, weights, measures, -bank inspection, commerce and labor, come under its jurisdiction, -rendering the responsibilities of the Department heavier and more -complicated than any other branch of the Government, and demanding a -degree of persistence and versatility probably not called for on the -part of any other Cabinet Officer. - -The Department of Agriculture has a personnel of 640 while approximately -a million and a half dollars are appropriated by the Budget for carrying -on the work of the Department. For convenience of administration the -Department is divided into the following sections: - - Agriculture, - Veterinary Inspection and Zoology, - Commerce and Industry, - Immigration, Colonization and Labor, - Forests and Mines, - Patents and Trade Marks. - -In addition to these are several Bureaus, stations and offices that -report directly to the Assistant Secretary. - -The Section of Agriculture, naturally, is the largest and most -comprehensive of the various divisions or branches of the Department. -Under its direction are the six various “granjas” or Agricultural -Schools that are maintained, one in each Province. The distribution of -seeds and the awarding of agricultural prizes come under its direction, -as so also the inspection of fish, turtling and sponging, and the -registration of domestic animals, including horses, mules and cattle. - -It has also charge of all agricultural fairs and exhibitions, either -foreign or domestic. The purpose of the “Granjas” or agricultural -schools is to educate the children of the rural districts along those -lines which will tend to make them practical farmers and useful -citizens of the community. Pupils are admitted at the age of fourteen -and are given tuition, board, lodging and clothes at the expense of the -Government. - -An excellently equipped laboratory for the analysis of soils, -fertilizer, or other material pertaining to agricultural industries, is -maintained by the Division of Agriculture, and forms one of the most -useful branches of the Department. - -The Division of Commerce and Industry is entrusted with the inspection -of nearly everything pertaining to the commerce and industry of the -country. One very important branch is that of the inspection of banks, -tobacco factories, sugar plantations and mills, and general industries -of the Island. A Bureau of Statistics is also attached to this Division. - -The Division of Veterinary Science and Animal Industry, is entrusted -with the development of animal industry throughout the Island, and with -the duty of protecting, as far as possible, livestock of all kinds from -disease, either foreign or domestic. A laboratory, thoroughly equipped, -is maintained as an auxiliary of this Division, enabling the Director to -determine the nature of any given disease and to provide means and -material for combating it. - -Under the direction of the same Section are six poultry stations, one in -each Province, where experiments are conducted with reference to poultry -raising and to the cure of infectious diseases that may afflict. Three -breeding stations, too, dependent on this Bureau, have been established -in the eastern, central and western districts. - -The Division of Forests and Mines, owing to the incalculable wealth of -Cuba’s mines of iron, copper, manganese, chrome, etc., and to the -immense value of her virgin forests of hard woods, scattered throughout -the mountainous districts of the interior is of special importance. -Forest inspectors are maintained whose duty is to see that timber is not -cut without authorization from either government or private lands, or -surreptitiously smuggled away from the coast. The enormous acreage, -too, of the red and yellow mangrove, remarkably rich in tannin, that -encircles nearly all the islands bordering on the interior lagoons, and -the making of charcoal carried on in these districts, are supervised by -the forest inspectors. - -Every mineral claim located in the Republic must be reported to the -Director of Mines in charge of this Division, where it is registered in -books kept for the purpose in the name of the individual petitioning, -with the date and hour of record, together with the dimensions or -boundaries of said claim carefully indicated. With this registration a -payment of $2 for each hectare of land is made and receipted for, which -entitles the owner, after said claim has been surveyed by the engineers -pertaining to the Division of Mines, to the sole privilege of working -the claim, or taking either mineral asphalt or oil from beneath the -surface. - -In the Division of Trade Marks and Patents, one of the most important in -the Department, patents and trade-marks are granted for a nominal sum to -both citizens and foreigners. Companies that have secured patents in -foreign countries, after producing evidence to that effect, may -duplicate or extend their patents in this office, and trade-marks that -have been established in other countries may be registered in Cuba on -proper application. Patents for books and publications are also handled -in this Division. - -The Department of Meteorology is responsible for all astronomical and -meteorological observations, and for the publication of data in regard -thereto. The Weather Bureau and all observatories come under its -jurisdiction, together with the publication of official time. It is -responsible for the collection of all data concerning weather and -climate that may affect crops, which data is published weekly, monthly -and annually. - -Under the Division of Immigration, Colonization and Labor matters -pertaining to subjects connected with immigration, wages, hours and -working condition of laborers and their connection with capital or -employers, are handled and adjusted. During the year 1918, this Bureau -amicably settled eighteen labor disputes, thus avoiding threatened -strikes. Records of all accidents to labor are kept on file. - -Every immigrant entering the Island of Cuba from any country must be -provided with $30 in cash before being released from Triscornia, the -receiving station on the Bay of Havana. From this station immigrants -without means are looked after by the Division of Immigration, and the -company or person, who, desiring his services, takes him out, is -required to give a bond that he will not become a public charge. This -Department also issues permits to sugar estates, corporations or -companies who wish to import labor on a large scale. - -Under the direction of this Division, the Government has started a -colony for laborers at Pogolotti, a suburb of Havana, where 950 houses -have been built, each with a parlor, two bedrooms, a bath, kitchen and a -yard. They are rented to laborers only, at a monthly rental of $3.12. Of -this $2.71 is applied to the credit of the renter towards the purchase -of the house, the remainder going for expenses of administration and -water. The purchase price is fixed at $650, and when this has been paid -the laborer becomes the owner. - -In addition to the above mentioned Divisions or Sections there are -several independent Bureaus or offices, reporting directly to the -Sub-Secretary and acting under his instructions. Among these is the -Bureau of Game and Bird Protection, organized to enforce the law -regulating the open and closed seasons for hunting deer, and the various -game birds, ducks, pigeons, quail, etc., that abound in Cuba. The work -of this Bureau is conducted along lines and methods similar to those -employed in the United States. The duties of the Director of this most -worthy Institution are onerous and unending and to his indefatigable -energy is due the saving of thousands of valuable birds and animals. - -A Bureau known as the Bureau of Publications and Exchanges is charged -with the publication in Spanish of an Agricultural Review, intended for -the enlightenment of the agriculturists of the Island. In this monthly -are printed the reports of the many experiments and important work -carried on at the Government’s Experimental Station at Santiago de las -Vegas, and other matters pertaining to Agricultural industries. - -It is the desire of the Government of Cuba to encourage immigration, and -to invite especially agriculturists and farmers from all countries, and -to use every legitimate means of inducing the better class of immigrants -to make permanent homes in the agricultural districts of the Island. But -in order to guard against misleading information, and possible failure -on the part of settlers from foreign countries in Cuba, one of the main -objects of the Bureau of Information of the Department of Agriculture is -not only to promulgate the exact truth, as far as possible, in regard to -conditions, but also to protect the homeseeker against the machinations -of irresponsible real estate agents, and the disappointment that would -result from the purchase or cultivation of lands that could not give -satisfactory returns. - -The Government wants every homeseeker or investor of capital in Cuba to -make a success of his undertaking, since only success redounds to the -credit and reputation of the Republic. Hence every effort is being made -to advise prospective settlers and investors, in regard to any -legitimate undertaking that may be contemplated. This advice is -invariably gratis and correspondents are requested not to enclose stamps -for replies to their communications, since these are official and do not -require postage. Personal interviews are invited at all times under the -same conditions. - -During the first Government of Intervention, under the direction of -General Leonard Wood, an agricultural experimental station was -inaugurated on the outskirts of the little town of Santiago de las -Vegas, some ten miles from the City of Havana. One hundred and sixty-six -acres were purchased for the use of the station and Mr. Earle, formerly -connected with the Department of Agriculture in Washington, was -installed as Director. - -The grounds were well located, with a fine automobile drive passing -along its eastern boundary and the Havana Central Railroad close by on -the west. A large quadrangular edifice occupied by Spanish military -forces, was transformed into the main building of the station. Other -houses for the protection of stock, machinery, etc., were soon added, -while resident homes were built for the officers of the station. - -An abundant source of good water was found at a depth of one hundred -feet and large steel tanks were erected so irrigation could be utilized -where needed. - -Choice fruit and shade trees were brought, not only from the different -provinces of Cuba, but also from other parts of the tropical world and -planted for experimental purposes. Of the latter the Australian -eucalyptus has made a wonderful growth. - -A splendid staff of botanists, horticulturists, bacteriologists and men -versed in animal industry were installed to assist the Director. -Considerable valuable pioneer work was done by these men and much useful -knowledge was imparted to the farmers of Cuba. - -With the installation of the Cuban Republic, several changes were made -in the Direction of the Station, but the routine work was carried on -with a fair degree of success. To bring about radical reforms among the -older agriculturists, who for many years have been addicted to the -antiquated methods of their forefathers, is not an easy task in any -country. To separate the administration of the Agricultural Station of -Cuba from the bane of politics was still more difficult. - -With the inauguration of General Menocal’s second term in office, -several changes were made, the result of which have been both marked and -beneficial. General Eugenio Sanchez Agramonte, former President of the -Senate and an ardent lover of everything connected with farm life, was -appointed Secretary of Agriculture, while Doctor Carlos Armenteros, an -enthusiastic and indefatigable worker, was made Assistant Secretary. - -General Agramonte, realizing all that a well conducted experimental -station meant to the agricultural interests of the country, after -careful search and examination into credentials, selected Dr. Mario -Calvano, an Italian by birth, but cosmopolitan in education and -experience, for the new Director of the Station, while larger credits -and a greater number of assistants were placed at his disposal. - -The result was to a high degree both beneficial and satisfactory. The -main building was renovated and, as the Director said, “made possible,” -from floor to ceiling. The southwestern part of the edifice was turned -over to the Department of Woods, Textile Plants and Allied Studies, and -here may be found, labeled and artistically arranged, most of the -indigenous woods of the forests of Cuba, both in the natural state and -highly polished. Samples of every textile plant known to the Island, of -which there are many, hang from the wall, showing the plant as it was -taken from the fields, and how it looks after being decorticated. - -Leaving this section one steps down into a small garden, covering not -over a quarter of an acre, in which may be found growing specimens of -valuable and interesting plants and trees that have been gathered from -Cuba and from other parts of the world so that their adaptability to -this soil and climate may be studied. - -The entire northern side of the building is given over to Animal -Industry and to Bacteriology, where experiments of vital importance to -animal life are conducted under the direction of experts. Not long ago -men were brought from the Bureau of Animal Industry in Washington to -assist the Station to establish a plant for the manufacture of the serum -that has proven so efficacious in protecting hogs from the cholera or -pintadilla, as it is known in Cuba. Considerable space is given over to -the raising of guinea pigs, for use in experiments in making cultures of -the germs that produce anthrax and other diseases that might endanger -the herds of the Island. - -Many splendid specimens of live stock, at the order of the Secretary, -have been purchased in the United States and other parts of the world -and brought to the station for breeding purposes. Some twenty odd -magnificent stallions, most of them riding animals and cavalry remounts, -were secured in Kentucky and other states during the spring of 1918 and -brought to the station, where they have been divided among branch -stations located in the other provinces of the Island. - -Excellent specimens of cattle also, including the Jersey, the Holstein, -the Durham and Cebu or sacred cattle of India, have been purchased -abroad and brought to the Station and then installed in splendid -quarters, built of reinforced concrete for their accommodation. The Cebu -has been crossed in Cuba with the native cattle for some years past with -very satisfactory results. Doctor Calvino states that a two-year old -steer, resulting from the cross between a Cebu and a native cow, will -weigh quite as much as would the ordinary three-year old of straight -breeding. - -Many specimens of thoroughbred hogs, including the Duroc, the Poland -China, the Berkshire and the Tamworth, have been brought to the station, -where they and their progeny seem to thrive even better than in the -countries where the breed originated. Angora goats, too, that came from -the Northwest, from Texas, and the mountains of Georgia, have given very -satisfactory results in Cuba. - -Several thousand chickens, including the Rhode Island Red, the Plymouth -Rock, the Orpington, Minorcan and several varieties of Leghorns, were -imported from the United States and brought to the Station, where they -seem to be doing very well. - -Under the direction of Doctor Calvino, nearly every acre of the Station -has been devoted to some useful purpose. The grounds on either side of -the main driveway are instructive and interesting. As the winter visitor -passes down the long lane, he will find various tracts under -comparatively intensive cultivation, planted in nearly all the -vegetables common to the United States in addition to those found in -Cuba. Among others are tomatoes, egg plants, green peppers, okra, beans, -peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, peanuts, cabbage, beets, malanga, yucca, -name, acelgas and chayete. Each variety is carefully labelled, with time -of planting and other data necessary for complete reports on results -obtained. - -Other sections are given over to fruits, and nut bearing trees, those -indigenous to Cuba and those brought from other countries. Among the -indigenous fruits we have the beautiful mango, the agucate, the -guanabana, the marmoncillo, the mamey, colorado and amarillo, the anon, -the nispero or zapote, the caimito, the tamarind, the ciruela, and all -varieties of the citrus family. - -Large beautiful groves of oranges, limes, lemons and grape fruit in full -bearing, form a very interesting part of the station’s exhibit. Some -sixteen varieties of the banana, the most productive source of -nourishing food of all the vegetable kingdom, may be studied here under -favorable conditions. - -Several acres have been given over to seed beds and nursery stock, which -in a short time will supply valuable plants of many kinds to other parts -of the Island. A section has been devoted to the cultivation of various -textile plants, including the East Indian jute, the ramie, common flax, -and the malva blanca of Cuba. - -The large patio that occupies the center of the main building is adorned -not only with many beautiful flowers common to this latitude, but also -with quite a number of ornamental palms not common to Cuba, or at least, -not to the Province of Havana. The charm of the spot is due not alone -to the interest that arises from an opportunity to study animal and -vegetable life under favorable conditions, but also the high degree of -intelligent efficiency that has been introduced into the life of the -Station with the advent of the present Secretary of Agriculture and -Director, Dr. Calvino. Its beneficial influence is felt throughout the -entire Republic. - -Owing to the fact that agricultural products form the chief source of -Cuba’s revenues, the protection of her various grains, grasses and -useful plants from infection and disease of whatever nature, becomes a -matter of prime importance. Plant diseases and insect pests have brought -ruin to agricultural efforts in many parts of the world. Fortunately -perhaps most of the country’s agricultural effort is devoted to the -production of sugar cane, which is subject to less danger from disease -than almost any other plant of great economical value or utility. - -Tobacco, in the western end of the Island, has long been made the -subject of study and care, with the result that efficient protection has -been secured. Various other plants, however, and especially fruits, are -extremely susceptible to disease and to infection. Some of these -including citrus fruits, the cocoanut and the mango, have recently -suffered severely from diseases that have been imported from other -countries. - -Cuba probably suffers less from these troubles than any other country -within the tropics. Nevertheless her cocoanut industry, owing to the -introduction of what is termed “bud rot,” a few years ago, was reduced -from an annual exportation of 20,000,000 nuts to only a little over -2,000,000. A disease introduced from Panama also greatly injured a -variety of the banana known as the “manzana.” - -Not, however, until the unfortunate arrival of the “Black Fly,” -discovered in India in 1903, and afterwards in some mysterious way -conveyed to Jamaica, whence it found its way into Cuba in 1915, near -Guantanamo, did the Government awaken to the fact that it was -confronted by a serious pest that threatened not alone the citrus fruit -industry, but the production of mangoes and also coffee. - -As soon as the Department of Agriculture became aware of the nature of -this new disease, steps were taken to combat it scientifically, and with -all of the resources at the disposal of the Government. An appropriation -of $50,000 was at once granted and afterwards extended to $100,000. With -this fund the Bureau of Plant Sanitation was quickly organized, with a -central office in Havana. Competent inspectors were assigned to the -three principal ports, where supervision over both imports and exports -is conducted. - -Inspectors in each province were installed to investigate the condition -of various crops with special attention given to the Black Fly. Squads -of trained men were organized to combat this pernicious diptera, -especially in the vicinity of the City of Havana, whence the disease had -been brought from Guantanamo. Passengers probably carried infected -mangoes from that city to Vedado, a suburb of the capital, and from this -center the Black Fly spread over a radius of ten miles around the city, -giving the Bureau of Plant Sanitation an infinite amount of trouble. - -Expert entomologists and trained men were brought from Florida to aid in -the eradication of the enemy. A systematic pruning, spraying and general -campaign against the Black Fly has been carried on ever since with more -or less success. Badly infected trees have been cut down and burned, -while gangs of men, organized as “fly fighters,” are conveyed in -automobiles with their apparatus from one orchard to another, keeping up -a continual struggle against this destructive insect. - -In the neighborhood of Guantanamo, where the pest had secured a -foothold, a determined warfare is being waged. This enemy to several of -the best fruits is undoubtedly one of the most difficult to contend with -that has appeared in Cuba, but with the expenditure of time, money and -much effort, it will undoubtedly be eradicated. - -The Bureau of Plant Sanitation is under the direction of Dr. Johnson, a -highly trained and energetic official who has devoted the greater part -of his life to the study of plant enemies and to the successful -elimination of the danger and loss that come from them. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -SUGAR - - -Considered from the point of view of agriculture, manufactures or -commerce, Cane is King in Cuba. The sugar crop of 1918, amounting to -25,346,000 bags, or 3,620,857 tons, was sold for over $350,000,000; and -the crop of 1919, consisting of 27,769,662 bags, equivalent to 3,967,094 -tons, will probably realize the sum of $500,000,000. The significance of -these facts may be strikingly appreciated by making a simple comparison. -The Cuban sugar crop of 1919 is worth $200 for every man, woman and -child on the island; while the corn crop of the United States, the most -valuable crop of that country, worth $3,000,000,000, is equal to only -$30 per capita of the population. - -The production and consumption of sugar throughout the world was -practically doubled during the fifteen years preceding the world war. -The total production for 1914 was 18,697,331 tons, of which 8,875,918 -tons came from beets, and 9,821,413 tons from cane. As a consequence of -the war, the world production for 1919 was only 16,354,580 tons, of -which only 4,339,856 tons were obtained from beets, while 12,014,724 -tons were obtained from cane. The crop of 1919 shows, therefore, a gross -shortage of 2,342,751 tons compared with that of 1914, without taking -into account the normal increase in consumption indicated by the -experience of the fifteen years before the war; during which period the -production of cane sugar in Cuba was actually trebled in volume, showing -an average annual increase of approximately 125,000 tons. The production -of sugar in Cuba in 1914 was 2,597,732 tons, and in 1919 it was -3,967,064 tons; showing an average annual increase of about 275,000 -tons, or approximately seven per cent. These figures, taken with those -of the fifteen preceding years, indicate that the development of the -cane sugar business in Cuba during the past twenty years, or since the -establishment of the Republic, has been of steady growth and healthy -proportions. - -Natural conditions have greatly favored the growing of sugar cane in -Cuba, and the demand for sugar throughout the world has increased so -rapidly that it is not surprising that this industry has become -paramount in the insular Republic. Begun on a small scale and in almost -indescribably primitive fashion nearly four hundred years ago, as -related in the first volume of the History of Cuba, it was not until -near the end of the sixteenth century that the industry was established -on a secure foundation. Even then it received little encouragement from -the Spanish Government, and it was not until the close of the eighteenth -and opening of the nineteenth century that it began to assume the -proportions for which nature had afforded opportunity. With the -emancipation of the island from peninsular rule, however, and the firm -establishment of a government of Cuba by Cubans and for Cubans, the -sugar industry has developed into proportionately one of the greatest in -the world. - -A general impression prevails that practically all of the lands in Cuba -are adapted to the profitable cultivation of sugar cane; that numerous -large and desirably located tracts, suitable in character and sufficient -in area to justify the installation of modern “centrales” or factories -of normal average capacity, are still to be found, scattered throughout -the island and purchasable at nominal cost when compared with their -economic value; and that the annual production of sugar in Cuba can, -therefore, be profitably increased to the extent even of “supplying the -whole world with all the sugar it needs.” This impression is, however, -erroneous and misleading. General James H. Wilson, commanding the -Military Department of Matanzas and Santa Clara under the first -Government of Intervention, who was esteemed an authority on the -subject, reported in 1899 that it was a mistake to suppose that all -Cuban lands were of the first quality, such as would grow sugar cane -continuously for twenty or thirty years without replanting; that there -were in fact few such estates in Cuba; that most of the land, whether -red or black soil, produces cane for only twelve or fifteen years, and -much of it for from three to five years only; and that, in the two -provinces named, there was then little new or virgin cane land left, -nearly all of first class quality having at some time been under -cultivation. In this report he did not, however, take into account the -extensive areas of “cienaga” or swamp lands, which would not be -available for cane growing purposes until drained. Since then it has -also been satisfactorily demonstrated that some of the so-called -“savana” land, which has a “mulatto” or yellow soil, hitherto regarded -as worthless for sugar-producing purposes, can be made to produce good -crops of cane by the judicious application of fertilizers and with -suitable methods of cultivation. Sufficient time has not elapsed to -determine the durability of such plantations. - -More conservative opinions, entitled to serious and careful -consideration, have been expressed to the effect that first class new -and virgin cane lands, favorably located and now available, can still be -purchased in Cuba at figures as low as twenty dollars an acre and in -sufficient area to make possible the profitable production of 3,000,000 -tons of sugar above the present output, which approximates 4,000,000 -tons; increasing the total to 7,000,000. It does not seem that such -great areas could easily be hidden under a bushel in as small an island -as Cuba, and it is probable that not more than one half of the total -area of the new lands, purchasable at such a price, would be suitable -for cane-growing purposes; in which case the cost would be raised to -approximately forty dollars an acre for the actual cane-producing area. -If these opinions and claims are accepted, it would seem unreasonable -to expect that such large areas of land, yet remaining and now -available, could average as good or prove as economically productive as -the lands now actually under cultivation; and it would not, therefore, -seem unreasonable to assume that to produce 3,000,000 additional tons of -sugar would require an area nearly if not quite as large as that now -required to produce the present annual output of approximately 4,000,000 -tons. It is certainly difficult to believe that the area of land now -producing sugar could be duplicated from the new and virgin lands now -available in Cuba. The recent purchase of considerable acreages along -the line of the newly constructed Northern Railway by the American Sugar -Refining Company and the Czarnikow-Rionda interests, at prices ranging -from seven hundred and fifty to one thousand dollars a caballeria, or -about seventy five dollars an acre, for the actual cane-growing and -sugar-producing area, would seem to emphasize the conclusion that first -class new and virgin cane lands, yet remaining and now available in -Cuba, are not so plentiful or so cheap as claimed by some and generally -supposed. - -The total area of Cuba is estimated at a maximum of about 30,000,000 -acres; and it is probable that not more than ten per cent of this total -area, or 3,000,000 acres, is adapted to and now available for the -profitable cultivation of sugar cane, with sugar at even relatively -normal pre-war average prices. Indeed it is doubtful if even continuance -of the present abnormally high prices for sugar could greatly enlarge -such now available area. Large tracts of the richest lands in Cuba, -favorably conditioned and advantageously located but now covered by -“cienagas” or swamps, can however be effectively and economically -drained and made available for the cultivation of sugar cane; and such -lands when drained should produce sugar more economically and profitably -than any similar area of land in the island now growing cane. The -largest of these swamps are in the Cauto River valley, in the vicinity -of the Bay of Cardenas, and along the line of the Roque Canal leading -thereto, and in the region covered by the Cienaga de Zapata. The -reclaimable area of these swamp lands is estimated at not less than -750,000 acres. - -Putting the present average annual production of cane in Cuba at 20 long -tons, and the average yield of sugar at 11.25 per cent, or 2.25 tons an -acre, and assuming a gross yearly production of 4,000,000 tons of sugar, -indicates that about 35,000,000 tons of cane are grown upon -approximately 1,750,000 acres of land; and allowing an additional -500,000 acres, to provide for and cover planting, replanting as -pasturage, it would seem that approximately 2,250,000 acres of the best -conditioned and most favorably located cane lands now available are -required to produce the present output of 4,000,000 tons. Careful -consideration of the subject leads to the conclusion that there are not -now available in the island over 500,000 acres of new and virgin lands, -upon which cane can be planted and profitably grown, with sugar at -prices approximating the pre-war ten-year average. But these additional -lands cannot reasonably be expected to average as good or prove as -economically productive as the lands now actually planted with and -growing cane. It should not be unreasonable to allow, for planting, -replanting and pasturage, the additional 250,000 acres required to -complete the estimated 3,000,000 acres given as the probable maximum -area adapted to, and now available for, the profitable cultivation of -cane in Cuba; unless and until the swamp lands, having an area of about -750,000 acres, shall be drained, reclaimed and put under cultivation. -Assuming that the additional 500,000 acres of land now available would -yield in the same proportion as the lands now planted and producing, an -increase of only 1,125,000 tons of sugar yearly would result, which -would raise the total annual production to about 5,125,000 tons. Should -the swamp lands be reclaimed and made productive, upon the same basis of -calculation there would be a further increase of only 1,687,500 tons, -bringing the total production of sugar in Cuba up to a maximum of only -6,812,500 tons a year, or at most, in round figures, about 7,000,000 -tons. It seems most improbable that a larger production could be -developed and permanently maintained, unless through fertilization and -improved methods of cultivation, including irrigation; and it appears -doubtful if such measures would more than compensate for the natural -deterioration of soil and exhaustion of lands, that will inevitably -result from long continued cultivation; for much of the lands now under -cultivation will not produce for periods longer than from three to seven -or at most ten years. - -The Cienaga de Zapata is the largest and most easily drainable of the -swamp areas mentioned. It is a vast alluvial plain, built up of the -washings of the most fertile and durable cane growing lands of Cuba, -enriched by the decomposition of the vegetable growth of uncounted -centuries. It has a total area of 15,307 caballerias, or 505,154 acres; -which is greater than the sugar-producing area of the Island of Porto -Rico, or that of the Hawaiian Islands; indeed it is nearly as large as -both combined. The net reclaimable area is not less than 450,000 acres; -which is sufficient to provide cane for thirty “centrales” of 250,000 -bags, or fifteen of 500,000 bags capacity each; equivalent to an output -of 7,500,000 bags, or approximately 1,000,000 tons of sugar a year; the -production of which would be effected under a combination of -advantageous economic conditions not found in the production of sugar -elsewhere in Cuba, if in the world. Chief among these advantageous -conditions are the fertility of the soil, the extent and compactness of -the area of land, its convenient and economical accessibility to a deep -water port, and the fact that the entire area can be irrigated with -water from the drainage canals at a maximum lift of not over ten feet. -The drainage of these lands can be effected entirely by gravity and at a -cost not exceeding twenty dollars per acre for the net sugar producing -area. Comprehensive surveys have been made for effecting the drainage of -this great territory by well known American engineers; and a plan -providing for the utilization of the lands, when drained, has been -prepared by Mr. R. G. Ward of New York City, who was one of the chief -factors under Sir William Van Home in the building and putting into -successful operation of the original main line of the Cuba Railroad, -extending from Santa Clara to Santiago. Under the franchises or -concessions controlled by Mr. Ward, the not distant future may, -therefore, see the present output of sugar in Cuba increased by -approximately one-fourth, from the now neglected lands of the Cienaga de -Zapata. - -According to Mr. H. A. Himely, who is a recognized authority on the -subject, 196 “centrales” handled the crop of 1919, amounting to -27,769,662 bags, or 3,967,064 tons of sugar. These “centrales” varied in -output, from a minimum capacity of only 145 to a maximum of 701,768 -bags, showing an average of about 142,000. Hence it is clear that the -word “central” conveys no definite idea of capacity, and constitutes no -exact unit of thought or calculation. Let us, however, assume that the -word applies to a complete modern sugar factory of 250,000 bags yearly -capacity, each bag containing 325 pounds of sugar; an output of -81,250,000 pounds. Factories of such capacity may be installed as single -units or in multiple units. To obtain maximum results it is necessary -that they shall be provided with sufficient areas of suitable land in -one contiguous and reasonably compact body, within easy access of an -economical deep water port, so that the costs of hauling and delivering -the cane to the mill, and of transporting the sugar and molasses to the -port, or shipside, may be reduced to the minimum. Now, of the new and -virgin cane lands still remaining and now available in Cuba, there are -few if any now obtainable which answer to these demands; and it is -questionable if there are yet remaining and now available in the island -new and virgin lands in tracts of sufficient size and aggregate area to -warrant the installation of more than twenty “centrales,” having a -combined yearly capacity of 5,000,000 bags. Indeed it is believed that -it would be difficult if not impossible to find desirable and -economically satisfactory locations for even so large a number. - -Wherever possible, virgin forests are cleared and planted for cane -fields, as the accumulated humus of centuries produces a growth of cane -that with care will endure for from five to twenty-five years without -replanting. In Oriente cane fields are still producing good crops which -were planted fifty and even sixty years ago. This method of cane culture -is, however, most uneconomical, since the soil in time will certainly -become exhausted. No plant responds more quickly to judicious and -generous use of fertilizers than does sugar cane; and, according to the -best authorities, no matter how rich the soil may be, it pays to -fertilize. - -In opening up a sugar plantation, the trees are first felled and the -trunks of valuable timber drawn off the land, while the limbs, brush and -other waste materials are piled and burned. Owing to the previous shade -of the trees, the ground is free from weeds, and but little preparation -of the soil is required. - -For the first planting, men with heavy sharp pointed “jique” sticks, -about five feet in length, travel on parallel lines across the fields, -jabbing these stakes into the ground at intervals of four or five feet. -Behind them follow others, bearing sacks of cane cut into short pieces, -containing one or two joints each, a piece of which is thrust into each -hole, and the earth pressed over it with the bare foot. From the eyes of -these sections of cane in the rich, moist earth there quickly rise -shoots or sprouts of cane, and under the influence of the heavy tropical -rains that fall during the summer months the growth is so rapid that the -young cane shades the ground before weeds have time to grow. According -to the usual custom of the country, the stumps of trees are left to rot -and enrich the soil. Thus in the course of a few years a plantation is -started at comparatively small cost, from which cane may be cut without -replanting for many years to come. - -Where sugar plantations are developed upon “savana” lands, the rows may -be laid out with greater regularity and cultivated with modern machinery -and implements until the cane has secured sufficient growth. At the -expiration of eighteen months from the first planting, the cane should -be ready for the mill. Cutters, with heavy machetes, go into the fields, -seize the stalks of cane with the left hand, and with one deft blow of -the machete cut them close to the ground. With three or four more -strokes the canes are stripped of their leaves, topped, cut in halves -and thrown into piles, ready to be loaded upon carts and carried to the -mills or railroad stations. - -During recent years hand labor in the fields has been difficult to -secure in Cuba, and since the beginning of the European War the wages of -cane cutters have risen from the usual average of $1.25 to $2.50 and -even as high as $3.00 a day. Cuba has never had a sufficient amount of -resident labor to handle her enormous crops of sugar. Thousands of men -are brought to the Island annually, from Spain, the Azores, the Canary -Islands, Venezuela, Panama and the West India Islands. Most of these -laborers return to their homes at the end of the season, as they can -live there in comfort upon the money earned until the next cane-cutting -season. A machine for cutting cane, to do the work of forty men, has -been invented and in 1918 received practical trial, which is said to -have been fairly satisfactory. It is possible that this and other labor -saving machinery will soon be perfected so that the large number of -field hands now required may thus be replaced, to some extent, and the -cost of cane culture and cutting correspondingly reduced. - -Heavy two wheeled carts, drawn by from four to eight oxen, are still -generally used to convey the cane from the fields to the mills or -railroad stations. Plowing, also, is done largely with oxen, although -these are being replaced on the more modern and up to date estates by -traction engines hauling gang plows, and by motor driven trucks for the -transportation of the cane. One of the latter, which was first used in -1918, is provided with several light steel demountable bodies, that are -dropped at convenient places through the cane fields, where they are -loaded and then drawn up again upon the frame of the truck by the power -of the motor. The load of cane is then carried to the mill or loading -station, and the empty body brought back to the field for reloading. -Meanwhile other bodies have been loaded with cane, and the operation is -repeated. Other experiments are being made with trucks of the ordinary -type, mounted upon low wheels carrying so called caterpillar belts, so -that they may be used in wet weather and on soft ground. These -contrivances have not, however, eliminated the ox cart, which still -hauls from the fields over ninety per cent of the cane produced in Cuba. - -Labor plays an important part in the cost of producing sugar in Cuba and -largely determines the profits of the industry. In 1914 the cost of -producing a pound of sugar, in most of the well located and otherwise -favorably conditioned mills in Cuba, was estimated at about two cents; -and in some of the exceptionally favored mills even this figure left a -margin of profit. But with the rapid rise in wages following the -outbreak of the European War, and the consequent increase of expense of -cultivating, cutting and handling cane, the cost of making sugar has -become increasingly difficult to determine, as the wage rate may vary, -both from day to day, and also in the different sections of the island, -where labor may be scarce or plentiful. - -The urgent demand for sugar brought about by the European War caused -many fields to be planted with cane the soils of which were not suited -for the purpose. Mills were also erected at several places in districts -not favored by nature for sugar production. Later, when the selling -price of sugar was fixed by the Sugar Commission appointed for that -purpose, these less fortunately situated mills, compelled as they were -to pay practically double the usual amounts for labor, found little if -any profit remaining at the end of the year’s operations. Those mills -favored by fertile lands and good locations yielded and continue to -yield excellent returns upon the capital invested, in spite of the -increased cost of labor. - -In Cuba two altogether different methods are employed for planting, -cultivating, cutting and delivering cane to the mills or loading -stations, known, respectively, as the “Administration” and the “Colono” -systems. Under the Administration system the work is directed by the -management of the enterprise, and all labor and other expenses involved -are paid by the owners of the property. Less than ten per cent of the -cane annually produced is grown and delivered by this system. More than -ninety per cent is, therefore, grown and delivered by the Colono system, -which constitutes the distinctive feature of Cuban agriculture so far as -it relates to the production of sugar. The system differs from the usual -tenant-farming system in that there is no agreed sharing of the crop or -fixed cash rental paid by the Colono to the landlord, in cases where the -Colono is not himself the proprietor of the land in question. The system -applies alike to lands owned by the enterprise, privately owned, or -leased by the enterprise or the Colono; the terms and conditions varying -slightly in each case. By a process of bargaining, based upon local -conditions, the Colono gets from 4-1/2% to 8%, with a probable average -of 6-1/4%, of the weight of cane grown and delivered, in sugar, or its -value in cash. That is to say, for every 100 pounds of cane grown and -delivered by him he would get an average of 6-1/4 pounds of sugar, or -its market value, in cash. Deducting the 6-1/4 pounds, paid as an -average to the Colono, from the 11-1/4 pounds, given as the average -yield of sugar, leaves only 5 pounds to the enterprise, out of which all -expenses must be paid before profits or dividends can be shown. -Moreover, under this system, any reduction in the yield of sugar would -fall entirely upon the enterprise until it reached the 6-1/4% payable, -on an average, to the Colono. As an illustration, take the crop of 1918 -and 1919, amounting to 4,000,000 tons of sugar; about 2,222,225 tons -went to the Colono, to cover the “cost of cane,” while only 1,777,775 -tons went to the enterprise to cover all other expenses and provide for -dividends upon the capital invested: and, should the yield of sugar have -fallen one per cent, equivalent to 355,555 tons, the Colono would have -received the same, while the enterprise would have received only -1,422,220 tons--and so on, until the enterprise would get nothing at -all, although the earnings of the Colono would remain unchanged. - -The system is, therefore, well named, for the Colono receives first -consideration, while the enterprise carries the burden and accepts all -risks; against which the advantage of a possible abnormal yield is -certainly an inadequate compensation. Furthermore the mill owners -generally assume the burden and risk of “financing” their Colonos; -frequently advancing credits of from three to five times the amounts -contributed by the Colono himself. However, with all its disadvantages, -the Colono system is likely to prevail for some time to come, as it is -doubtful if, under existing labor conditions, the large tonnage of cane -now required could otherwise be obtained. The “guajiro,” or cane-cutter, -is the autocrat of the situation; he knows he is scarce and, therefore, -believes that he is indispensable. As a result, his efficiency has -fallen from three and a quarter to two and a quarter tons a day; while -his earnings, on a tonnage basis, have risen from 150% to 200%, when -compared with pre-war conditions. The only solution for this unfavorable -situation seems to depend upon the provision of continuous employment -for labor, and the effecting of a rearrangement of the Colono system so -as to permit of the performance of all heavy work, such as plowing and -preparing the lands for planting, and hauling the cane from the fields, -by the owners of the sugar-producing properties. They can afford to -equip their establishments for the doing of such work upon a large and -comprehensive scale, that will accomplish an indirect reduction in the -present cost of producing and delivering cane to the mills, which, while -increasing the profits of the Mill Owners, will not reduce the net -earnings of labor or of the Colono. - -Natural conditions combine to favor the production of sugar in Cuba. -Ample rains, so essential to the growth of cane, fall during the summer -season while the cane is growing; and during the rest of the year the -weather is sufficiently cool to bring about the complete ripening of the -cane and the formation of its sucrose content, and to make possible the -easy harvesting and handling of the cane in the fields, and its -economical conveyance to the “centrales.” Careless and uneconomical -methods have heretofore prevailed in the treatment of soils and in the -cultivation of cane, which will undoubtedly be remedied in due course of -time. - -Under a more intensive system of cultivation, assisted by a better -selection of seed, and the judicious and generous employment of -fertilizers, including irrigation, wherever practicable, the position of -Cuba as the largest and most economical producer of sugar in the world -will be permanently assured. - -No account of the sugar industry of Cuba would be complete which failed -to make special mention of some of the most notable enterprises now -existing in that Island; or of the men mainly responsible for their -inception and development. Taking them in the order of their productive -capacity, the following list covers the most important of such -properties: - - _Mills_ _Bags_ _Percentage_ - _Controlled_ _Produced_ _of Crops_ - Cuba Cane Sugar Corp 17 4,319,189 15.59 - Cuban-American Sugar Co 6 1,938,368 7.00 - Rionda Properties 7 1,856,563 6.60 - United Fruit Co 2 776,045 2.80 - Atkins Properties 4 736,043 2.66 - Poté Rodriguez Properties 2 625,054 2.29 - West Indies Sugar Finance Corp 3 619,204 2.23 - Gomez-Mena Properties 2 605,000 2.19 - Cuba Company Properties 2 587,800 2.12 - Mendoza-Cunagua Property 1 452,583 1.64 - -The Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation was organized in 1915, to acquire and -operate eighteen sugar properties upon which options had been obtained -by Don Manuel Rionda, head of the long established sugar brokerage firm -called the Czarnikow-Rionda Company, of New York City; who, though for -many years a resident of the United States, still clings to his Spanish -citizenship. Shortly after the organization of the corporation another -large sugar property, including a railroad leading to a port on the -Caribbean Sea, was acquired; but soon thereafter one of the original -properties purchased was sold and another was dismantled, so that -seventeen is the actual number now owned and operated by the -corporation. Mr. Rionda deserved and received great credit for having -negotiated, organized and launched the Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, as -and when he did; and the great success which almost immediately attended -its consummation brought him great prestige and made him at once a -dominant factor in and authority upon matters relating to sugar. It is -immaterial that the eminence achieved was due largely, if not entirely, -to the successive rises in the price of sugar, which applied especially -to the crops of 1916, 1917 and 1919; for nothing succeeds like success. - -The Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation was organized and financed upon the -strength of a letter written by Mr. Rionda to Messrs. J. & W. Seligman & -Co., of New York, on December 16, 1915, in which he made an “estimate -that, with sugar at the lowest, say 2 cents per pound, the Corporation -would earn at least 1-1/2 times the dividends on its preferred stock.” -The f. o. b. production cost for the crop of 1915 and 1916, immediately -following, was reported as 2.748 cents per pound, notwithstanding the -fact that the sellers of the properties acquired had paid the so-called -dead season expenses. It is clear, therefore, that, “with sugar at its -lowest, say 2 cents per pound,” the first year’s operations of the -corporation would have shown an operating deficit of 0.748 cents per -pound, instead of earning “at least 1-1/2 times the dividends on its -preferred stock,” as estimated by Mr. Rionda. The large gross operating -profits reported for the first year’s operations were, therefore, due in -part to the exclusion of the dead season expenses, but mainly to the -rise in price of sugar, from 2 cents per pound in July, 1915, to an -average of 4.112 cents per pound during the crop season of 1915 and -1916. Such profits might possibly be creditable to Mr. Rionda’s business -acumen, but it cannot be justly claimed that they were due to the -infallibility of his original estimates, or to his demonstrated -administrative capacity for the successful handling of so large and -complex an enterprise, the physical conditions of which make -administrative co-ordination extremely difficult and expensive. -Nevertheless, he has profited by the experience of succeeding years, and -shows an increasing capacity for coping with the numerous and -complicated problems involved in the administration of the largest sugar -producing enterprise in the world; and it is generally conceded that the -abnormally large profits now earned by the corporation, as the result of -further rises in the price of sugar, will provide for the readjustments -of and cover the improvements to the various properties comprised, that -are necessary to put the property, taken as a whole, upon an absolutely -satisfactory and permanently impregnable footing, physically and -financially. This goal is known to accord with Mr. Rionda’s ardent -desire, as constituting the consummation of his most commendable -aspirations, and the crowning glory of his achievements. It is intimated -that he will then, and not until then, retire from the field of his -activities, in which he has played so conspicuous a role. - -The Cuban-American Sugar Company was incorporated in 1906, as a holding -company, to acquire the entire capital stock of five independent -companies then engaged in the cultivation of sugar cane and the -manufacture of raw and refined sugar in the Island of Cuba. Other -properties were acquired in 1908, and again in 1910, including a -refinery located at Gramercy, Louisiana. On September 30, 1918, the -Company owned 504,391 acres of land, of which 157,000 acres or 31 per -cent were planted with cane. It also leased 16,713 acres of land, of -which 7,825 acres or 47 per cent were under cultivation. Thus there was -a total of owned and leased lands of 521,104 acres, of which 164,825 -acres or 32 per cent were producing cane. The Cuban-American Sugar -Company was for years the largest sugar producing enterprise in the -world, until the organization of the Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, which -alone out-ranks it. It has grown out of the Chaparra Sugar Company, now -one of its subsidiary companies; which was organized shortly after the -conclusion of the Spanish-American War by State Senator Robert B. -Hawley, of Galveston, Texas, who at the very beginning employed as his -confidential representative and manager of the Chaparra property General -Mario G. Menocal, now President of the Cuban Republic but still regarded -as the actual General Manager of the Cuban-American Company’s properties -in Cuba. The capabilities, enterprise and industry of these two men, and -the warm personal as well as cordial business relations established and -maintained between them, made it not only possible but easy for each to -supplement and co-operate with the other; and to those conditions the -great success of the Cuban-American Sugar Company is attributed. While -it is true that this Company, like all others, has profited greatly by -the high prices resulting from the War, it is also true that the -foundations of the success that has been attained by it were laid by the -courageous enterprise and perfected by the untiring industry of Mr. -Hawley, made effective in Cuba by the energetic and loyal co-operation -of General Menocal and his large following of patriotic Cuban compadres, -without whose assistance no sugar producing enterprise in Cuba has ever -been or will ever be a complete success. Indeed it is largely because of -the wise recognition of and sympathetic relations established with the -Cuban people by Mr. Hawley that the securities of the Cuban-American -Sugar Company are quoted in the markets of the world at higher figures -than those of any other sugar producing enterprise. - -The Rionda Properties are seven in number, comprising five estates which -are in effect the personal property of Don Manuel Rionda, his relatives -and family associates, and two others in which he is the controlling -factor. All of these properties are operated as separate and independent -units, or as individual or one-man enterprises, in the development and -supervision of which few have equaled and none have been more successful -than Mr. Rionda. Part of this success has been due to the fact that -during the creative period these independent properties have been as a -rule under the management of members of his own family, prominent among -whom were two nephews, Don Leandro J. Rionda and Don José B. Rionda, -both capable men, who grew up with the properties they came to -administer, thus acquiring that close personal touch with employees and -conditions which is so desirable an asset, but which is unfortunately -lost to the larger enterprises, and who rendered to their uncle, Don -Manuel, the loyalty he had inspired in them and so richly deserved at -their hands. In such circumstances it is not to be wondered at that -success of a high order has attended their co-operative efforts. Mr. -Rionda has no children of his own and it is probably for this reason -that so close an affection and so intimate business relations exist -between him and his two nephews and the fine sugar producing properties -they have developed under his auspices. - -The United Fruit Company entered the sugar business through an accident; -and yet it is the only company that combines all the essentials for -producing, transporting and refining sugar. Shortly after the conclusion -of the Spanish-American War, the Company acquired the Banes property, -and also a large tract of land on the Bahia de Nipé, now known as the -Nipé Bay property, upon both of which bananas were planted on an -extensive scale. But it was soon discovered that atmospheric conditions -in that part of Cuba were unfavorable to the successful production of -bananas. Therefore in order to utilize the lands which it had acquired -the Company planted them with cane and began the production of sugar; it -was of course already a transportation company; and now it has built a -refinery in Boston, to which its raw sugar is shipped from Cuba on its -own steamers, and there refined; thus completing the cycle of operations -from planting the cane to marketing the product. No other sugar -producing enterprise has ever gone into the business upon such -comprehensive lines. Such however are the lines upon which everything -undertaken by Andrew W. Preston and Minor C. Keith, the directing -geniuses of that company, is planned and projected; which largely -accounts for the enviable success that has always crowned their efforts. - -The Atkins Properties comprise one property belonging to Mr. Edward F. -Atkins, of Boston, who is reputed to be the first American to have -acquired a sugar property in Cuba, and three others belonging to or -controlled by the Punta Alegre Sugar Company, the most active -personality connected with which is Mr. Robert W. Atkins. The Punta -Alegre Sugar Company was incorporated, in 1915, as a holding and -operating company, engaged in the business of owning and operating -sugar plantations and factories in the Island of Cuba. It owns and -controls 40,831 acres and leases 25,717 acres of land; and is reported -to be doubling the capacity of its central at Punta Alegre. Credit for -the suggestion and initiative that resulted in the combination of these -properties and the organization of this Company is generally given to -Mr. Ezra J. Barker (Ray Barker) of New York, and Major Maude, a retired -British Army officer who for many years has resided in Cuba. The -prestige and financial standing of the officers and directors of and of -the capitalists interested in the Punta Alegre Sugar Company and the -Atkins Properties is sufficient to guarantee the successful operation of -these properties. - -The Poté Rodriguez Properties are the personal property of Don José -Lopez Rodriguez, who is a Spanish subject residing in Havana, and known -to every body as “Poté.” Some say that this nickname is an abbreviation -of the word “poder,” or “power.” Certain it is that Don Poté Rodriguez -is, in fact, a human dynamo, the very embodiment of power and push. -Beginning as a book-seller, stationer and printer, on Obispo Street, -Havana, where he still conducts that business and makes his -headquarters, he has, in recent years, acquired a controlling interest -in the Banco Nacional de Cuba, a corporation having a capital of -$8,000,000; he has also invested several millions of dollars in an -elaborate suburban annex to the city of Havana, including a large -Portland cement plant; he has contracted to dig the Roque Canal, -projected to drain the Jovellanos Flats and part of the Cienaga or swamp -lands near Cardenas; and he is the sole owner of the Central España, the -pride of his heart, upon which he has worked day and night for years, -hoping to make it the largest producing sugar “central” in Cuba. But -despite his efforts three other “centrales” surpass it in productive -capacity. - -The West Indies Sugar Finance Corporation is a protege if not actually a -subsidiary of the B. H. Howell-Cuban-American-National Sugar Refining -Company group, which under the intelligent and experienced direction of -Mr. H. Edson, of New York City, has come to be a factor of prime -importance in the sugar business in Cuba. It is claimed that the tonnage -of cane obtained from the lands of one of the properties owned by this -Corporation in the season of 1918-19 averaged higher than that of any -other sugar producing property in Cuba; and that the average yield of -sugar was as good as the best. The splendidly economical milling plants -at Tinguaro, Chaparra and Delicias were installed under Mr. Edson’s -direction, and it is reasonable to assume that the mills of his own -corporation are equally efficient. Few men interested in the sugar -business in Cuba have had a broader, more varied or more useful -experience; and there are none whose judgment as to the value of cane -lands and sugar properties is more to be relied upon. - -The Gomez-Mena Properties were united and built up by Don Antonio -Gomez-Mena, a Spanish subject, who has resided for many years in Cuba, -where he developed a large mercantile business in the city of Havana; -out of the profits of which he began the building of the well known -Manzaña de Gomez-Mena, or Gomez-Mena Block, which has recently been -completed by his heirs; and also acquired and developed the two sugar -properties with which his name is identified, and which are now owned by -his son, Don Andres Gomez-Mena. These “centrales,” known as Amistad and -Gomez-Mena, and located respectively near Guines and San Nicolas, in the -southeastern part of the Province of Havana are of special interest -since on them more clearly than elsewhere in Cuba are practically -demonstrated the benefits to be derived from irrigation and the value of -cienaga or swamp lands when drained and reclaimed. When Señor Gomez-Mena -purchased the properties they were regarded as of little value, because -a large part of the area consisted of swamp lands, carrying an excess of -water, while the balance was composed of higher lands of a character so -dry as to be practically valueless for purposes of agriculture. It was -rightly reasoned that both of these difficulties could be overcome. So -the wet lands were drained and the dry lands were irrigated; with the -result that these two properties are now regarded as among the most -profitably productive sugar estates in Cuba; relative areas, of course, -being taken into consideration. - -The Cuba Company Properties were developed by Sir William C. Van Home -for the purpose primarily of providing traffic for the newly constructed -Cuba Railroad; which fact accounts for their location along that line, -remote from shipping ports, at a time when more desirable locations -could have been acquired, looked at from the point of view of economical -sugar production. Nevertheless both of these properties seem to have -paid well upon the capital invested in them, while at the same time -contributing handsomely to swell the revenues of the Cuba Railroad; all -of which speaks well for the sagacity and enterprise of Sir William Van -Home, and increases the credit to which he is justly entitled. - -The Mendoza Cunagua Property differs from all other sugar producing -properties in Cuba in that it was projected, developed and built up as a -complete whole, from start to finish, by a group of Cuban capitalists -dominated by members of the well known and highly respected Mendoza -family; the most active personalities in the enterprise being Don -Antonio and Don Miguel Mendoza. Considered in every feature and detail, -the Central Cunagua Property is probably the most complete and most -perfectly appointed and equipped cane growing and sugar producing -establishment that was ever created as the result of one continuous and -comprehensive effort; Don Antonio Mendoza having the credit for its -accomplishment. At Cunagua more than any where else in connection with -the growing of cane and the production of sugar does the human equation -receive prime consideration, as compared with the beasts of the field, -or the machinery of the factory; all of which are, however, looked upon -as assets and are well cared for. So well and thoroughly, indeed, was -all of this planned and accomplished, and so promisingly did everything -point towards a future rich with reward, honestly earned and well -deserved by the creators of this splendid property, that it is in a -sense regrettable to have to add that the Central Cunagua Property has -recently been sold to the American Sugar Refining Company of New York -City; which company has also acquired additional lands in its vicinity, -upon which a duplicate of the Central Cunagua will be installed. - -There are many other meritorious cane growing and sugar producing -enterprises in Cuba, that are deserving of consideration; but which -cannot be satisfactorily described within the space here available for -the purpose. It must suffice to add that of the total sugar produced in -Cuba during the season of 1918 and 1919, amounting to 27,747,704 bags, -13,587,733 bags or 49.04 per cent were produced by sixty-five properties -owned or controlled by American interests, and 14,159,971 bags or 50.96 -per cent were produced by one hundred and thirty-one properties owned or -controlled by Cuban and European interests. It may not be amiss also to -call attention to the fact that the sugar crop of Cuba, for the season -of 1918-19 amounted to nearly one-fourth of the total sugar production -of the world. If allowance is made for the normal average increase in -consumption of sugar, as indicated by experience during the fifteen -years just before the European War, the world’s production of sugar for -the year 1919 should have been 21,813,551 tons, while in fact it -amounted to only 16,354,580 tons. This shows that the actual net -shortage in the world’s production of sugar amounted to 5,458,971 tons -instead of the 2,342,751 tons commonly mentioned, the latter figures -representing only the difference in production between the years 1914 -and 1919. This indicates that there are no grounds for apprehension on -the part of anyone contemplating investing in desirable property in -Cuba, as to the world’s production overtaking the world’s consumption of -sugar for a number of years to come. The economic position of Cuba as -the premier sugar-producing country of the world may therefore be -confidently regarded as secure. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -TOBACCO - - -This strangely hypnotic leaf of the night-shade family seems to have -originated in the Western Hemisphere, and that variety familiar to -commerce, known as the Nicotina Tabacum, was in popular use among the -aborigines of the West Indies, Mexico and the greater part at least of -the North American continent, probably for thousands of years before the -written history of man began. - -Christopher Columbus and his followers noted the fact that the Indians -of Cuba wrapped the clippings from peculiar aromatic dark brown leaves -in little squares of corn husks, which they rolled and smoked with -apparent pleasure. It did not take long for the Spanish conquerors to -fall into the habit of the kindly natives who received them and who -almost immediately offered them cigars in token of welcome to the Island -of Cuba. - -Tobacco was grown at that time in nearly all parts of the Island. Rumor -soon circulated, however, that the best weed was grown only in the -extreme western end of Cuba, known today as the Vuelta Abajo, or down -turn, and the report proved true, since only in Pinar del Rio is grown -the superior quality of leaf that has made that section famous -throughout the world. Neither has careful study or analysis of soils -betrayed the secret of this superiority over tobacco grown in other -parts of the Island. - -The choice tobaccos of the Vuelta Abajo are grown in a restricted -section of which the City of Pinar del Rio is the approximate center. -The whole area of the Vuelta will not exceed thirty miles from east to -west, nor is it more than ten miles from north to south. And even in -this favored district, the really choice tobacco is grown in little -“vegas,” or fields, comprising usually a small oasis from three to -fifteen acres in extent, in which a very high grade of tobacco may be -grown, while adjoining lands, similar in appearance, but lacking in the -one magic quality which produces the desired aroma and flavor, are -largely wanting. The prices obtained for the tobacco grown on these -favored “vegas” seem almost incredible. A bale of this tobacco, weighing -between 80 and 90 pounds, will readily sell at from $100 to $500. - -When one considers that with the use of cheese cloth as a protection -from cut worms, from eight to twelve bales are taken from an acre, -valued at $200 each, which means a return of approximately $2,000 per -acre for each crop, the importance of the tobacco crop in Vuelta Abajo -may be appreciated. - -The value of an acre of any land that will return $2,000 annually to the -grower, at 10% interest on invested capital, would be $20,000. It is -needless to state that this price for tobacco lands, even in Vuelta -Abajo, does not prevail. It is nevertheless true, that many first-class -vegas of tobacco are held at prices that place them practically beyond -the reach of purchase. - -In spite of the undoubted profits of tobacco growing in Cuba, the -condition of the “veguero,” as far as financial prosperity is concerned, -is far from enviable. As a rule, while knowing how to grow tobacco, he -does not know, nor does he care to learn, how to grow anything else. All -of his energy and time are devoted to the seed bed, the transplanting, -the cultivation, cutting, and curing of the leaf. He seldom owns the -soil on which the crop is grown, and usually prefers to be a -“Partidario” or grower of tobacco on shares with the owner. - -The owner furnishes the land, the seed, the working animals and what is -more important still, credit at the nearest grocery or general store, on -which the family lives during the entire year, and for which the -interest paid in one form or another constitutes a burden from which -the “veguero” seldom escapes. The latter furnishes the labor, time, care -and knowledge necessary to bring the crop to a successful termination. -When the tobacco is sold, the “veguero” receives his part of the -returns, pays his bills, and usually invests the remainder in lottery -tickets and fighting chickens. - -The life of the tobacco plant, from transplanting to the time in which -it is due and removed from the fields, is only about ninety days. The -selected seed is sown in land on which brush or leaves have been -previously burned, destroying injurious insect life, while furnishing -the required potash to the soil. The seed beds are known as “semilleros” -and are carefully tended until the plants are five or six inches in -height, when they are removed and carried to the “vega,” previously -prepared with an abundance of stable manure or other fertilizer, well -rotted and plowed in. In three months’ time, with care and careful -cultivation, a crop will be ready for cutting and curing. - -The semilleros are prepared usually during the latter part of September, -or early October, when the fall showers are still plentiful. By the -first of January, if the plants have had sufficient growth and the -weather is cool, clear and dry, the leaves are cut in pairs, either -united to the stalk or connected by needle and heavy thread, and -afterwards strung over a bamboo or light pole known as a “cuje.” - -To each “cuje” are assigned two hundred and twenty pairs of leaves. -These are carried to the tobacco barns, with sides built usually of -rough board slabs, above which is a tall sharp roof, made from the -leaves of the guana palm. Only one or two openings are placed in each -tobacco barn to admit the required amount of air, while the tobacco, -still supported on poles, goes through a process of curing, which the -experienced “veguero” watches with care. - -At the proper time the crop is removed from the poles and done up in -“mantules” or bundles, which are afterwards delivered to the -“escogidos,” where tobacco experts select and grade the leaves in -accordance with their size and condition. After this they are baled and -incased in “yagua,” a name given to the broad, tough base of the royal -palm leaves, and sent to Havana or other central mart for sale. Tobacco -buyers from all over the world come to Havana every fall to purchase -their supplies of raw material for manufacture into cigars and -cigarettes. - -Excellent tobacco is grown also in the Valley of Vinales, and may be -successfully cultivated in nearly all of the valleys, pockets and basins -that lie in the mountains of Western and Northern Pinar del Rio. This -tobacco as a rule is graded in quality and price a little below that of -the choice Vuelta Abajo center. - -Along the line of the Western Railroad, extending east from Consolacion -del Sur to Artemisa, tobacco is also grown on the rolling lands and -among the foothills that lie between the railroad and the southern edge -of the Organ Mountains. This section, some fifty miles in length, with -an average width of five or six miles, in which tobacco forms quite an -important product, is known as the Semi-Vuelta or Partido district. Its -leaf, however, brings in the open market only about half the sum -received for the Vuelta Abajo. Nevertheless, at all points in this -section where irrigation is possible, the culture of tobacco, especially -when grown under cheese cloth, is profitable. - -Again, along the banks of several rivers south and east of the City of -Pinar del Rio, especially along the Rio Hondo, a very good quality of -tobacco is grown in the sandy lands rendered fertile by frequent -overflow of these streams in the rainy season as they pass through the -level lands of the southern plains. - -The chief enemies of the tobacco plant are some five or six varieties of -worms that cut and eat the leaves. The larvae are hatched from the eggs -of different kinds of moths that hover over the tobacco fields at -night. Some are hatched from egg deposits on the plant itself, and at -once begin eating the leaf, while others enter the ground during the -day, coming out during the evening to feed, and no field unless -protected by cheese cloth, or carefully watched by the patient veguero, -can escape serious damage or complete destruction from these enemies of -tobacco. It is a common thing at sundown to see the father, mother and -all members of the family big enough to walk, down on hands and knees, -hunting and killing tobacco worms. On bright moonlight nights, the worm -hunt is carried on assiduously, and in the early hours of dawn the -veguero and his family, if the crop is to be a success, must be up like -the early bird and after the worm, otherwise there will be nothing to -sell at the end of the season. - -Even with the greatest care, the worms will take a pretty heavy toll out -of almost any field, and to save this loss, the system of covering -tobacco fields with cheese cloth was introduced into Cuba from the State -of Florida, some twenty years ago. Posts, or comparatively slender -poles, are planted through the field at regular intervals, usually -sixteen feet apart. From the tops of these, galvanized wire is strung -from pole to pole, in squares, while over this is spread a specially -manufactured cheese cloth or tobacco cloth, usually woven in strips of a -width convenient to fit the distance between the poles. The seams are -caught together with sail needles and cord, making a complete canopy -that not only covers the field but has side walls dropping from the -white roof to the ground below. Screen doors or gates are built in the -side walls, so that mules with cultivators may pass through and work -under these great white canopies, which protect the growing plants from -the cut worm and save the poor old veguero and his family from the bane -of their lives. The cost of poles, wire and covering cloth, under normal -conditions, is about $300 per acre, and when to this are added several -carloads of manure or other fertilizer, the expense of covering, -fertilizing, cultivating and caring for an acre of tobacco will easily -reach $500, whence the deduction that tobacco crops must bring a good -price in Cuba is evident. - -As a result of these huge tent-like canopies, that frequently cover -hundreds of acres, every leaf is perfect, and if of sufficient size and -fineness, may be used as a wrapper. When one takes into consideration -the fact that a “cuje,” or 220 pairs of leaves strung on a pole, is -worth from $4 to $5, and that the same leaves when perforated by worms, -can be used only as cigar fillers, worth from 75¢ to $1.35 per “cuje,” -the advantage of cheese cloth covering to a tobacco field becomes -evident. Owing to lack of capital, however, the small native farmer -usually is compelled to do without cheese cloth, and to rely upon the -laborious efforts of himself and his family, to keep the worm pest from -absolutely ruining his crop. - -The tobacco industry at the present time commercially ranks next to -sugar. The total value of the crop in 1917 approximated $50,000,000, of -which $30,000,000 was exported to foreign countries. Of the exportations -of that year, the largest item consisted of the leaf itself, packed in -bales numbering 291,618, valued at $19,169,455; cigars, 111,909,685 -valued at $9,548,933; cigarettes, 12,047,530 packages, valued at -$406,208; picadura or smoking tobacco, 261,461 kilos, valued at -$251,874. There were 258,994,800 cigars during the same year consumed in -Cuba, with an approximate value of $12,000,000; of cigarettes, -355,942,855 packages, valued at $7,830,742; and of picadura, 393,833 -pounds valued at $196,719. During the four years inclusive from 1913 to -1917 the value of exported tobacco increased a little over $6,000,000, -while domestic consumption increased about one-half or $3,000,000. - -In the various factories of cigars and cigarettes of Havana, some 18,000 -men and 7,000 women are employed. In other sections of the Island, -outside of the capital, some 16,000 men and 13,000 women are engaged in -the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes, making a total of 34,000 men -and 20,000 women employed in the tobacco industry, aside from those who -are engaged in tobacco cultivation in the fields of the various -provinces. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -HENEQUEN - - -Next to the “Manila hemp” of the Philippines, which is really a variety -of the banana, the henequen of Yucatan is probably the most important -cordage plant in the world. The name henequen is of Aztec origin, and -the plant itself, a variety of the agave or century plant family, is -indigenous to Yucatan, whence it has been introduced not only into other -sections of Mexico but also into Cuba, Central America and the west -coast of South America. No satisfactory substitute has been found for -henequen in the manufacturing of binder twine, so essential to the -harvesting of the big grain crops in the Western States of America. - -Revolutions in Mexico following the overthrow of Porfirio Diaz succeeded -for a time at least in paralyzing if not destroying the sisal industry -that had made Yucatan celebrated throughout the world and had caused -Merida to be known as a city of millionaires; and shortly before the -beginning of the great European War, men who had devoted their lives to -henequen culture and who feared that Mexico could no longer be relied on -for this product, began to look over the Cuban field for opportunity for -the more extensive cultivation of the plant. - -A superficial survey convinced them that large areas of soft lime rock -land, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, furnishing all the -elements essential to the successful growth of henequen, were to be had -in Cuba. Similar soils are found in Yucatan, where the average annual -rainfall and general climatic conditions are so nearly like those of -Cuba that it is fairly to be assumed that a crop which will do well in -the one land will also flourish in the other. In consequence, large -areas, in which Cuban, Spanish and American capitalists are -interested, have been planted with henequen in Cuba. - -[Illustration: THE GOMEZ BUILDING - -One of the finest business buildings in Havana is the great Gomez -Building, which occupies an entire block fronting upon the beautiful -Central Park and reached by way of the Prado. Although only five stories -in height, it vies in appearance and commodiousness with the best -business buildings in any American city. Its site was well chosen for -the display of its handsome architecture and commanding proportions, and -it stands in proximity to the National Theatre and other noteworthy -structures.] - -The first planting on a large scale was done by the Carranza Brothers, -of Havana, just south of the city of Matanzas, about twenty years ago; -Don Luis Carranza having married a daughter of Don Olegario Molino, of -Yucatan, and thus having become interested in the characteristic -industry of the latter country. A company of Germans afterward purchased -the property and close by the railroad station erected a very complete -plant for the decortication of the henequen and the manufacture of its -fibre into rope and cordage of all sizes, from binder twine to -twelve-inch cables. From this establishment for years the Cuban demand -was chiefly supplied. - -Shortly after Cuba, in 1917, followed the United States in declaring war -against Germany, the Spanish Bank of Havana purchased this property from -the owners, and at once increased its capital stock to six millions of -dollars; two and a half million preferred and three and a half million -common stock. At the present time the estate consists of three -plantations on which henequen is grown, located at Matanzas, Ytabo and -Nuevitas, with a total area of 120 caballerias or 4,000 acres of land. -It is said that owing to the demands of the European War, and the rise -of the price from 7¢ to 19-1/2¢ per pound, the net returns of the -Matanzas Cordage Company the first year after purchasing the estate -amounted to $800,000. - -The International Harvester Company of the United States has purchased a -tract of 3,300 acres of excellent henequen land near the city of -Cardenas, on the north coast of the province of Matanzas, for experiment -and demonstration, and under the direction of Yucatecos familiar with -the industry has planted it in henequen. This action was taken by this -company largely because of the uncertain and unsatisfactory conditions -of the henequen industry in Yucatan, caused by Mexican revolutions and -the arbitrary conduct of Mexican officials. In the year 1916, -444,400,000 pounds of henequen were exported from the Gulf ports of -Mexico and sold almost entirely in the United States, at 15¢ per pound, -since which time the price has risen to 19-1/2¢ per pound. This -unprecedented figure was brought about by the practical seizure of the -Yucatan crop by ex-Governor Alvarado, who allowed the actual growers -only 7¢ per pound for the sisal, he appropriating the difference between -that and the market price in New York. - -Twenty more caballerias or 666 acres of henequen are owned by -independent parties in the neighborhood of Nuevitas, on the north coast -of the Province of Camaguey. The Director-General of Posts and -Telegraph, Colonel Charles Hernandez, with a few associates, has -purchased 175,000 acres along the southern shore of the Little Zapata, -that forms the extreme western end of Pinar del Rio. It is proposed to -establish here large plantations of henequen, that will give employment -to many natives of the tobacco district who are now out of work during -some seasons of the year. - -The City of Cardenas, on the north coast, promises soon to become -another great henequen center, and the traveler riding west over the -main automobile drive leading out of Cardenas may view a panorama of -growing henequen spread out on both sides of the road as far as the eye -can reach. The peculiar bluish green of this plant growth, dotted with -royal palms, adds an odd color effect to the landscape, not easily -forgotten. - -Putting the maximum annual production of henequen or sisal hemp in -Yucatan at 1,200,000 bales, of 400 pounds to the bale, and assuming an -average yield of three bales per acre, indicates that about 400,000 -acres of land are actually producing hemp in that country; and allowing -for a margin of twenty five per cent of such area, to cover and provide -for depletion and propagation, it would seem that about 500,000 acres of -land is the approximate area now actually planted with and growing -henequen on that peninsula. These statements are made to justify the -calling of attention to the fact that large areas of more or less flat, -rocky lands exist in various localities throughout the island of Cuba, -notably in the western extremity of the Province of Pinar del Rio, along -the north coast from the city of Matanzas to the Bahia de Cardenas, on -the Cayos and, at intervals, along the north coast from Caibarien to the -Bay of Nipe, and especially along the Caribbean Coast, in the vicinity -of the Cienaga de Zapata; all of which lands are possessed of the same -physical characteristics, and are subject to the same climatic -conditions that apply to the lands in Yucatan now planted with henequen -and at the present time successfully producing sisal hemp. The aggregate -of these several areas of henequen lands is conservatively estimated at -not less than 1,000,000 acres: or double the area now planted with -henequen in Yucatan. - -About 9,000 acres of these Cuban lands are now actually planted with and -successfully growing henequen; and about 5,000 acres are now producing -sisal hemp which in quantity and quality compares favorably with the -product of the best henequen lands in Yucatan. The results obtained from -these lands now actually planted and producing are conclusive as to the -results that could be obtained if other and larger areas of such lands -should be planted with henequen. - -Furthermore a large part of these Cuban henequen lands are so level and -have such uniform, unbroken surfaces that, at an expense less than that -involved in preparing the henequen lands of Yucatan, they could be put -in condition to be kept clean mainly by motor-driven mowing machinery, -instead of the enormously expensive man-power machete system employed -upon the rougher lands of Yucatan. In addition to such advantages these -rocky areas either comprise, or are margined by, large areas of rich -land capable of producing many important items required for human -sustenance; while in Yucatan everything needed to sustain human life has -to be imported. - -Finally, when consideration is given to the fact that sugar cane must be -cut during the dry season, while henequen can be cut and defibered more -advantageously during the wet season, it will readily be seen that the -co-ordination of these two operations, whenever possible, will tend to -solve and favorably determine the problem and cost of labor involved in -the production of both sugar and hemp. Administration expenses would -also be reduced by such co-ordination. These several advantages should, -therefore, contribute to make Cuba an active competitor with Yucatan for -the sisal hemp business, within the near future. The plan projected by -R. G. Ward for the drainage and development of the lands contained in -the Cienaga de Zapata, already mentioned in a preceding chapter of this -volume, contemplates the co-ordination of the sugar and hemp industries -upon a scale so large and comprehensive as to merit great success. The -consummation of such an enterprise should make a definitely favorable -and permanent impression upon the future of the two industries involved. -With a proper combination of capital and enterprise, the henequen-hemp -business in Cuba could readily be developed to a point where it would -rank second only to sugar in importance and profit yielding -possibilities; and such development should have a direct bearing upon -the certainty of supply and cost of the daily bread of the people of the -whole earth. It is, therefore, worthy of the most serious consideration. - -Henequen offers many advantages to capital, especially to those -investors who dislike to take chances on returns. First of all, the crop -is absolutely sure, if planted on the right soil. Lack of rains or long -droughts are matters of no importance, and the plant will continue to -thrive and grow without deterioration in the quality of fiber. In Cuba -this growth is said to average one inch on each leaf per month, and -since it grows, as an old expert expressed it, “both day and night, rain -or shine, even on Sundays and feast days, there is nothing to worry -about.” Also it has practically no enemies. Cattle will not eat it -unless driven by starvation, which could not occur in Cuba. The crop is -never stolen, as the product could not be sold in small quantities. -Since the plant is grown on rocky lands, the leaves may be cut and -conveyed to the decortication plant at any season of the year. - -The life of the henequen plant is fifteen to twenty years, and the -average yield in Cuba is said to be about 70 pounds of fiber to every -1,000 leaves, and over 100 pounds are said to have been secured in -favorable localities. This compares well with the average yield in -Yucatan. In this connection it may be noted that at the World’s -Exhibition in Buffalo, sisal hemp made from henequen in Cuba won the -world medal in competition with Yucatan and other countries. - -The following is an authentic estimate of the cost of growing henequen -and producing sisal or fibre from the same in Cuba. One hundred acres -are used as the unit of measure: - - Cost of 100,000 plants @ $40 per M $ 4,000 - Cost of preparing land 1,000 - Cost of planting @ $5 per M 500 - Cost of caring for and cultivation during four years 2,500 - ------ - $8,000 - Cost of cutting, conveying, decortication and baling 4,000 - ------- - $12,000 - - The returns from the first cutting four years after planting should be: - 100,000 plants with 30 leaves to the plant yield, 3,000,000 leaves - 3,000,000 leaves (60 lbs. fiber each 1000 leaves) 210,000 - lbs. @ 10¢ per lb $21,000 - - Cost of production 12,000 - ------- - Net profit per 100 acres $9,000 - ------- - Net profit per acre $90 - -Practical work in the field has demonstrated the fact that the cost of -producing henequen fibre or sisal, if carried on during a period of ten -years with the present price of labor, will amount to three cents per -pound, or $6,300 for the production of 210,000 pounds of fibre coming -from 100 acres of land. To this may be added for interest on capital -invested and possible depreciation of plant or property, $1,700, making -a total of $8,000. - -This sum, representing the average annual cost of producing, subtracted -from $21,000, the normal value of the crop at 10¢ per pound, will leave -a net return of $13,000 for the 100 acres, or $130 net profit per acre. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -COFFEE - - -To either Arabia or Abyssinia belongs the honor of having been the birth -place of those previous shrubs that were the forerunners of all the -great coffee plantations of two hemispheres. And from the seeds of this -valued plant is made probably the most universally popular beverage of -the world. The people of Europe, North Africa and Western Asia all drink -coffee. The same is true in most countries of South and Central America, -while in the United States and the West Indies no breakfast is complete -without it. - -Of all known nations, however, the people of Cuba consume the greatest -amount of the beverage per capita. Both in the city and in the country, -the fire under the coffee urn always burns, and neither invited guest -nor passing stranger crosses the threshold of a home without being -offered a cup of coffee before leaving. - -The introduction of coffee into Cuba, as before stated in this work, was -due to the influx of refugees, flying from the revolution in Santo -Domingo, in the first years of the nineteenth century. The majority of -these immigrants, of French descent, and thoroughly familiar with the -culture of coffee, settled first in the hills around Santiago de Cuba on -the south coast, where they soon started coffee plantations that later -became very profitable. Others located in the mountainous districts of -Santa Clara around the charming little city of Trinidad, where fine -estates were soon established and excellent coffee produced. - -From these first settlements the culture of the plant rapidly spread to -nearly all of the mountainous portions of the Island, where the soil was -rich, and where forest trees of hard wood furnished partial shade, so -essential to the production of first-class coffee. In the mountains, -parks and valleys that lie between Bahia Honda, San Cristobal and -Candelaria, in the eastern part of Pinar del Rio, many excellent estates -were established whose owners, residing in homes that were almost -palatial in their appointments, spent their summers on their coffee -plantations, returning to Havana for the winter. - -Revolutions of the past century unfortunately destroyed all of these -beautiful places, leaving only a pile of tumbled-down walls and cement -floors to mark the spot where luxurious residences once stood. Cuba, -during the first half of the 19th century, and even up to the abolition -of slavery in 1878, was a coffee exporting country, but with the -elimination of the cheap labor of slaves, and the larger profits that -accrued from the cultivation of sugar cane, the coffee industry -gradually dropped back to a minor position among the industries of the -Island, and thousands of “cafetales” that once dotted the hills of Cuba -were abandoned or left to the solitudes of the forests where they still -yield their fragrant fruit “the gift of Heaven,” as the wise men of the -East declared. - -Of all the varied agricultural industries of Cuba there is none, -perhaps, that will appeal more than coffee growing to the home-seeker of -moderate means, the man who really loves life in the mountains, hills -and valleys beside running streams, where the air is pure and the shade -grateful, and the climate ideal. The culture of coffee is not difficult, -and by conforming to a few well-known requirements which the industry -demands it can easily be carried on by the wife and children, while the -head of the family attends to the harder work of the field, or to the -care of livestock in adjacent lands. - -The plant itself is an evergreen shrub with soft gray bark, and dark -green laurel-like leaves. The white-petaled star-shaped flowers, with -their yellow centers, are beautiful, and the bright red berries, growing -in clusters close to the stem are not unlike in appearance the -marmaduke cherries of the United States. The fragrance that fills the -air from a grove of coffee trees can never be forgotten. - -The shrub is seldom permitted to grow more than ten feet in height and -begins to bear within three or four years from planting. The berries -ripen in about six months from the time of flowering. Each contains two -seeds or coffee beans, the surrounding pulp shriveling up as the time -approaches for picking. - -During the gathering of the crop women and children work usually in the -shade of taller trees, such as the mango or aguacate, stripping the -fruit from the branches into baskets or upon pieces of canvas laid on -the ground, which may be gathered up at the corners and carried to the -drying floors where the berries are spread out as evenly and thinly as -possible and given all the air and sunlight available. Early in the -morning these are raked over to insure rapid drying. When sufficiently -dry the berries are run through hulling machines which remove the outer -pulp, leaving the finished green bean of commerce. - -Approximately 500 trees are planted to the acre in starting a coffee -plantation, and these will yield under favorable conditions at the -expiration of the fourth year about one half of a pound to a tree, or -250 pounds to the acre, the value of which would be $50. The sixth year -these trees should produce one pound each, making the return from one -acre $100. Two years later these same trees will yield $200 per acre, -and the tenth year $300. Each succeeding year, if well cared for, the -yield should increase until the trees reach maturity at twenty-five -years. - -On the western slopes of the great Cordilleras that sweep throughout the -length of Mexico, several varieties of excellent coffee are found. Among -these is one, that through some freak of nature, afterwards encouraged -and developed by the natives of that district, has been induced to -produce two crops a year. It is stated on reliable authority also that -trees ten years old, in this restricted area of western Mexico, will -yield five pounds of berries to the tree, or in the two periods of -annual bearing a total of ten pounds to each plant. The Department of -Agriculture is endeavoring to secure both seed and nursery stock from -this district, which will be transplanted to the Experimental Station at -Santiago de las Vegas, and definite data secured in regard to the -success of this variety of coffee in Cuba. - -Where several small coffee farms are located in the same vicinity, -hulling machines may be purchased jointly, and serve the needs of other -growers in the district. The crop when dried, cleaned and placed in -hundred-pound sacks, is usually strapped to the backs of mountain ponies -and thus conveyed to the nearest town or seaport for shipment to Havana. - -A coffee planter can always store his crop in the bonded warehouses of -Havana or other cities, and secure from the banks, if desired, advances -equivalent to almost its entire value. The price of green coffee on the -market at wholesale ranges from 20¢ to 25¢ per hundred weight. - -It is a common sight either in Bahia Honda or Candelaria to see long -trains of ponies bringing coffee in from the outlying foot hills, or -mountain districts. It is usually sold direct to local merchants, who -pay for the unselected unpolished beans, just as they come from the -hands of the growers, $20 per hundred weight. This high price is paid -owing to the fact that the Cuban product is considered, at least within -the limits of the Republic, the best coffee in the world, and it will -bring in the local markets a higher price than coffee imported from the -foreign countries. The retailers after roasting coffee, get from 40¢ to -50¢ per pound for it. - -In spite of its superiority and the demand for native coffee, less than -40% of the amount consumed is grown in Cuba. Most of it is imported from -Porto Rico and other parts of the world, and this, regardless of the -fact that nearly all of the mountain sides, valleys and foothills -belonging to the range that extends through Pinar del Rio from Manatua -in the west to Cubanas in the east, are admirably adapted to the -cultivation of coffee, as also are the mountains of Trinidad and of -Sancti Spiritus in the Province of Santa Clara, the Sierra de Cubitas -and la Najassa in Camaguey, and the Sierra Maestra range that skirts the -full length of the southern shore of Oriente. - -The available lands for profitable coffee culture in Cuba are almost -unlimited and are cheap, considering the fertility of the soil, the -abundance of timber still standing, the groves of native fruit trees, -the good grass found wherever the sun’s rays can penetrate, the splendid -drinking water gushing from countless springs, and the many industries -to which these lands lend themselves, waiting only the influx of -capital, or the coming of the homeseeker. - -The Government of Cuba is anxious to foster the coffee industry, which -was once a very important factor in the prosperity of the Island. The -first protective duty was imposed in 1900; $12.15 being collected for -each 100 kilos (225 lbs.) of crude coffee, if not imported from Porto -Rico, that country paying only $3.40. During the first years of the -Cuban Republic this duty was increased to $18 per hundred kilos, and -later, 30% was added, making a total duty paid of $23.40 on every 225 -pounds of coffee imported. Porto Rico, however, is favored with a -reduction of 20% on the above amount by a reciprocity treaty, which -compels that country at present to pay only $18.20 per hundred kilos. - -Coffee in Brazil has been sold at from four to five cents per pound and -yet, we are told, with profit. On the supposition that it would cost 8¢ -per pound to grow it in Cuba, with the average market for the green -berries at 22¢, the profit derived from a coffee plantation properly -located and cared for is well worth considering, and since the grade -produced is one of the finest in the world, there is no reason why this -Island should not in time, supply if not the entire amount, at least a -large part of the high-grade coffee consumed in the United States. - -With the resumption of industries that must follow the termination of -the European War, the Government will do all in its power to persuade -families from the mountainous district of Europe to settle and make -their homes in Cuba. Some of them undoubtedly will be attracted to the -forest covered hills that offer so much in the way of health, charming -scenery and opportunities for the homeseeker with his family. It would -be a most delightful example of agricultural renaissance, if the -hundreds of “cafateles,” abandoned for half a century, should again be -brought to life, with the resurrection of the old-time coffee -plantations, as an important Cuban industry. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -THE MANGO - - -Of all Oriental fruits brought to the Occident, the golden mango of -India is undoubtedly king. For thousands of years, horticulturists of -the Far East, under the direction of native princes, have worked towards -its perfection. Just when the seeds were introduced into Cuba, no one -knows, but certain it is that so favorable were both soil and climate -that the mango today, in the opinion of the natives at least, furnishes -the Island its finest fruit. It has so multiplied and spread throughout -all sections that it plays an important part in the decoration of the -landscape. - -Next to the royal palm, the mango is more frequently seen in traveling -along railroads or automobile drives than any other tree. Its beautiful -dark green foliage, tinged during spring with varying shades, from -cocoanut yellow to magenta red, is not only attractive to the eye but -gives promise of loads of luscious fruit during the months of June, July -and August. - -There are two distinct races or types of this family in Cuba, one known -as the mango, and the other as the manga. The terminations would suggest -male and female, although no such difference exists in sex. Both in form -and fruit, however, the types are quite different. - -The mango is a tall, erect tree, reaching frequently a height of 60 or -70 feet, with open crown and strong, vigorous limbs. The fruit is -compressed laterally, has a curved or beak-like apex, yellow or -yellowish green in color, often blushed with crimson. It is rich in -flavor but filled unfortunately with a peculiar fibre that impedes -somewhat the removal of the juicy pulp. - -Nearly all varieties of mangoes are prolific bearers. Their handsome -golden yellow tinted fruit not infrequently bends limbs to the breaking -point, so great is its weight. The fruit is from three to five inches in -length, and will weigh from five to twelve ounces. The skin is smooth -and often speckled with carmine or dark brown spots, and in most of the -seedlings there is a slightly resinous odor, objectionable to strangers. - -The manga, quite distinct from the mango both in form of tree and in -appearance of fruit, is easily distinguished at a distance. It grows -from 30 to 40 feet in height, is beautifully rounded or dome shaped, and -has a closed crown or top. The panicles in early spring are from 12 to -24 inches in length, pale green in color, usually tinged with red, and -in contrast with the deep green of its foliage produce rather a -startling effect. - -There are two types of the manga, one known as the Amarilla and the -other as the Blanca. More of the latter are found in the neighborhood of -Havana than in any other section of the island. Three of the most -perfect samples of the manga blanca, both in tree and fruit, are found -within a few rods of each other on the northern side of the automobile -drive from Havana to Guanajay, between kilometers 35 and 36. - -The mangas also are prolific bearers, whose fruit ripens in July and -August, a month or so later than the mango. The fruit is roundish, very -plump, and with the beak or point of the mango entirely missing. Its -color is lemon yellow with a delicate reddish blush, the length about -three inches and the weight from five to eight ounces. The skin, rather -tough, peels readily, and in eating should be torn down from the stem -towards the apex. The same fibre is present as in the mango, while the -pulp is very juicy, sweet, slightly aromatic and pleasant in flavor. - -The manga amarilla, closely allied to the blanca, is a very common form -and quite a favorite in the markets of Havana, where it is found towards -the end of July. The fruit is a deeper yellow than the blanca, very -juicy, and also very fibrous, with a weight varying from four to eight -ounces. These, with the mangoes above described, are seedling trees that -have gradually spread throughout the Island, the seed being scattered -along public highways and forest trails by men and animals. Horses, -cattle, goats and hogs are very fond of the mango. - -Since all mangoes give such delightful shade, and yield such an -abundance of luscious fruit throughout spring and early summer, the seed -has been planted around every home where space offered in city, hamlet -or country bohio. The center or “batey” of every sugar and coffee estate -in Cuba is made comfortable by their grateful shade, while single trees -coming from seeds dropped in the depths of the forest have gradually -widened out into groves. During the years of the Cuban War for -Independence, the fruit from these groves, from May until August, -furnished the chief source of food for insurgent bands that varied -anywhere from 200 to 2000 men. - -During the middle of the last century, when large coffee estates nestled -in the hills of Pinar del Rio, the mango, with its grateful shade and -luscious fruit, indicated the home or summer residence of the owner. -Today, of the house only broken stones and vine-covered fallen walls -remain, but the mangoes, old and gnarled, still stand, while around them -have spread extensive groves of younger trees, bearing each year tons of -fruit, with none to eat it save the occasional prospector, or the wild -hog of the forest. - -The Filipino mango, although not very common in Cuba, is occasionally -found in the western part of the Island, especially in the province of -Havana, where it was introduced many years ago, probably from Mexico, -although coming originally from the Philippine Islands, where it is -about the only mango known. The tree is rather erect, with a closed or -dome-shaped top, something similar to the manga. Its fruit is unique in -form--long, slender, sharply pointed at the apex, flattened on the -sides, and of a greenish yellow to lemon color when ripe. The pulp is -somewhat spicy and devoid of the objectionable fibre common to seedling -mangoes. It is usually preferred by strangers, although not as sweet and -delicious in flavor as other varieties of this family. The tree is -comparatively small, seldom reaching more than 30 feet in height. The -fruit is from four to six inches in length and will weigh from six to -twelve ounces. The Filipino has suffered but very little change in its -peregrinations throughout two hemispheres. It is not a prolific bearer, -but its fruit commands a very good price in the market. The Biscochuelo -mango is of the East Indian type, although the time and manner of its -introduction into Cuba is somewhat obscure. French refugees from Santo -Domingo may have brought it with them in 1800. It is found mostly in the -hills near Santiago de Cuba, especially around El Caney, and is quite -plentiful in the Santiago markets during the month of July. The fruit is -broadly oval with a clear, orange colored skin and firm flesh, and is -rather more fibrous than the Filipino. Its flavor is sweet and rich, -while its weight varies from eight to fourteen ounces. This variety of -the mango is not closely allied to any of the above mentioned types, but -keeps well, and would seem to be worthy of propagation in other sections -of the Island. - -Something over a half century ago, a wealthy old sea captain of -Cienfuegos, returning from the East Indies, brought twelve mango seeds -that were planted in his garden near Cienfuegos. One of the best of the -fruits thus introduced is called the Chino or Chinese mango, and is -probably the largest seedling fruit in the Island. On account of size it -sells in Havana at from 20¢ to 40¢, although it is quite fibrous and -rather lacking in flavor. This mango, through care and selection, has -undergone considerable improvement, so that the Chino today is a very -much better fruit than when brought to Cienfuegos sixty years ago. - -During the early Napoleonic wars, a shipload of choice mangoes and other -tropical fruit from India was sent by the French Government to be -planted in the Island of Martinique. The vessel was captured, however, -by an English man-of-war and carried into Jamaica. From this island and -from Santo Domingo, the French refugees introduced a number of mangoes, -including nearly all those that are now growing in Oriente, while the -manga, so common in Havana Province and Pinar del Rio, is thought to -have been brought from Mexico, although its original home, of course, -was in India and the Malaysian Islands. - -The fancy mangoes of Cuba today have all been imported within recent -years at considerable expense from the Orient, and their superiority -over the Cuba seedlings is due to the patient toil and care spent in -developing and perpetuating choice varieties of the fruit in India. Of -these fancy East Indian mangoes, the Mulgoba probably heads the list in -size, quality and general excellence. The fruit is almost round, -resembling in shape a small or medium sized grape fruit. Its average -weight is about sixteen ounces, although it sometimes reaches -twenty-four or more. When entirely ripe the Mulgoba is cut around the -seed horizontally. The two halves are then twisted in opposite -directions, separating them from the seed, after which they may be eaten -in the inclosing skin, with a spoon. - -The pulp is rich, sweet, of delightful flavor, and absolutely free from -fibre of any kind, which is true of nearly all East Indian mangoes. -Budded trees begin to bear the third or fourth year, yielding perhaps 25 -mangoes. The sixth or seventh year, dependent on soil and care bestowed, -they should bear from three to five hundred. In the tenth year, mangoes -of this variety should average at least a thousand fruit to the tree and -will bring from $1 to $3 a dozen in the fancy fruit stores of the United -States. - -The Bombay is another excellent mango, devoid of fibre. Its weight is -somewhat less than the Mulgoba, ten ounces being a fair average. Another -East Indian variety known as the Alfonse has the size and weight of the -Bombay, although differing in flavor and in its form, which is heart -shaped. Its weight will average ten ounces. - -A close companion of the Alfonse is known as the “Favorite,” whose fruit -will average about sixteen ounces. The Amani is another choice East -Indian mango of much smaller size, since it weighs only about six -ounces. The “Senora of Oriente” is one of the varieties of the Filipino -introduced into that Province many years ago, and has proved very -prolific. It is fibreless, of good commercial value, the weight of the -fruit varying from ten to twelve ounces. It is long and carries a very -thin seed; its color is greenish yellow. - -The “Langra” is another importation from India, a large long mango -weighing about two pounds, lemon yellow in color, of good qualities, -with a sub-acid flavor. - -The “Ameere” is similar to the Langra in color and quality, the fruit -weighing only about one pound. - -The “Maller” is very closely allied to both the above mentioned types, -and bears a very excellent fruit with slightly different flavor and -odor. - -The “Sundershaw” is probably the largest of all mangoes, the fruit -varying from two to four pounds in weight, fibreless, with small seed, -but with a flavor not very agreeable. - -All of the above mentioned varieties of mangoes have been introduced -into Cuba at considerable expense and grafted on to seedling trees, -producing the finest mangoes in the world. Owing to their scarcity at -the present time in the western hemisphere, very remunerative prices are -secured even in the markets of Havana. Shipments consigned to the large -hotels and fancy fruit houses in the United States have brought of -course much higher prices. - -In the hands of a culinary artist the mango has many possibilities, both -in the green and the ripe state. From it are made delicious jams, -jellies, pickles, marmalade, mango butter, etc. It is used also, as is -the peach, in making pies, fillings for short cake, salads, chutneys, -etc. - -[Illustration: FRUIT VENDER, HAVANA] - -This handsome tree, especially the variety known as the manga, with its -round symmetrical dome-like form, its rich glossy foliage of leaves that -are never shed and that remain green throughout the entire year, adds -not only to the beauty of the landscape, but furnishes most grateful -shade to all who may seek a rest along the roadside. - -It is more than probable that the Government of Cuba will select the -manga as the natural shade tree for its public highways and automobile -drives. The experiment has been made in some places with excellent -success, and the delicious fruit yielded in such abundance would furnish -refreshing nourishment for the wayfarer during spring and early summer. - -Choice varieties of the mango are comparatively unknown in northern -countries. Unfortunately the first samples that reached northern markets -came from Florida seedlings, and owing to their slightly resinous or -turpentine flavor, did not meet with a very ready acceptance. The rich, -delicious, fibreless pulp of the East Indian mangoes, if once known in -the larger cities of the North, would soon create a furore, that could -only be satisfied by large shipments, and that would command prices -higher than any other fruit grown. - -The mango, too, as a shade tree, or producer of fruit, has one great -advantage over the orange and many other trees. It will thrive in the -soil of rocky hills and in the dry lands whose impervious sub-soil would -bar many other trees. The day is not far distant when the mango will be -not the most popular but also the most profitable fruit produced of any -tree in the West Indies. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -CITRUS FRUITS - - -Although the forests of Cuba abound in several varieties of the citrus -family growing wild within their depths, the fruit was probably brought -from Spain by the early conquerors. The beautiful, glossy-leafed trees -of the wild sour and bitter oranges are met today throughout most of the -West Indies, and are especially plentiful in this island. The seeds have -probably been carried by birds, but the wild fruit, although seldom if -ever sweet, with its deep red color, is not only ornamental to the -forest, but often refreshing to the thirsty individual who may come -across it in his travels. The lime is also found in more or less -abundance, scattered over rocky hillsides, where the beautiful -lemon-like fruit goes to waste for lack of transportation to market. - -Almost everywhere in Cuba are found a few sweet orange trees that were -planted years ago for home consumption, but only with the coming of -Americans have the various varieties been planted systematically, in -groves, and the citrus fruit has assumed its place as a commercial -industry in the Island. - -Homeseekers from Florida found the native oranges of Cuba, all of which -are called “Chinos” or Chinese oranges to distinguish them from the wild -orange of the woods, to be not only sweet but often of superior quality -to those grown either in Florida or California. A prominent -horticulturist, who during the first Government of American Intervention -made a careful study of the citrus fruit of Cuba, stated that the finest -orange he had ever met during his years of experience was found in the -patio or backyard of a residence in the City of Camaguey. The delicious -fruit from that tree he described as an accident or horticultural freak, -since no other like it has been found in the island. - -The rich soils, requiring comparatively little fertilizer, were very -promising to the settlers who came over from Florida in 1900, and many -of these pioneers planted large tracts with choice varieties of the -orange, brought from their own state, and from California. Capital was -interested in many sections, and extensive estates, orange groves -covering hundreds and even thousands of acres, were planted near Bahia -Honda, fifty miles west of Havana. Other large plantings were made on -the Western Railroad at a point known as Herradura, in the province of -Pinar del Rio, 100 miles from the capital. - -Smaller groves were planted in the neighborhood of San Cristobal and -Candelaria, in the same province, some fifty miles from Havana. Other -American colonies set out large groves in the eastern provinces; one at -a station of the Cuban Railroad, in Camaguey, known as Omaha; another -east of the harbor of Nuevitas. Orange groves were planted, too, at the -American colony of La Gloria and at nearby places on the Guanaja Bay of -the north shore. - -One of the largest plantings of citrus fruit was started on the cleared -lands of the Trocha, in the western part of Camaguey, some ten miles -north of Ciega de Avila, while at several different points along the -Cuba Company’s Road, orange groves were started during the early days -following its construction. Both the provinces of Santa Clara and -Matanzas, also, came in for more or less extensive citrus fruit culture, -while in the Isle of Pines, during the first years of the present -century, large holdings of cheap lands were purchased by American -promoters, and afterwards sold in small tracts to residents of the -United States who were promised fortunes in orange culture. - -Some of these various ventures in citrus fruit culture, especially those -where intelligence was used in the selection of soils, and sites -commanding convenient transportation facilities, have proved quite -profitable. Many of them, however, far removed from convenient points of -shipment to foreign markets, have failed to yield satisfactory returns -and some have been abandoned to weeds, disease and decay. - -Some of the earliest and best kept groves were started in 1902 and 1903, -along the beautiful Guines carretera, or automobile drive, between -Rancho Volero and the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. -These groves have all reached their maturity and with their close -proximity to the local market of Havana, and easy transportation to the -United States, have been, and are, successful and profitable -investments. - -The first of these covered some 400 acres, all planted in choice -varieties of oranges by Mr. Gray of Cincinnati. In this vicinity too, -close by the Experimental Station, is the Malgoba Estate, the most -extensive and successful nursery, not only in citrus fruit, but for -nearly every other valuable plant, fruit, flower or nut bearing tree -indigenous to or introduced into Cuba. This nursery, as well as the -beautiful, orderly kept grounds of the Experimental Station, will be -found very interesting and perhaps valuable to the visitor from northern -countries. - -Some of the most successful groves in Cuba have been those planted in -what is known as the Guayabal District, located near the Guanajay Road, -in the extreme northwestern corner of the Province of Havana, within 25 -miles, or easy automobile drive, from the capital of the Island. The -oranges produced in this district are all from comparatively small -orchards, well cared for, whose fruit is sold to local purchasers and -conveyed in trucks to the markets of Havana. These oranges are sold in -on the trees, at prices varying from $10 to $20 per thousand. The grape -fruit, or toronja, alone is crated and shipped to the United States, -where the market for some years has been quite satisfactory, especially -when heavy frosts have cut short the yield of Florida groves. - -The great mistake of many of the early investors of capital in citrus -fruits in Cuba was not alone in the selection of the site, but in the -fact that enormous tracts of land were prepared at heavy expense and -groves set out with varieties not only unsuited to the market, but in -tracts so large that protection from disease, and from the tall rank -grasses of the island, was practically impossible. - -There is perhaps no fruit grown for commercial purposes that requires -more constant care and intelligent supervision than the orange and grape -fruit. An orange grove must be kept free from weeds, grass and running -vines; must be frequently cultivated to form a dust mulch; the trees -must be sprayed with insecticides and should be always under the eye of -an expert horticulturist, or orange grower, who will recognize and -combat not alone the scale insect but scores of other diseases that may -attack the trees at any time. These, if neglected for a year, or even -for a few months, will make inroads into the health of a grove that -spells heavy loss if not ultimate ruin. - -In Florida and California these facts, of course, are well known, and -the rules for successful orange culture are carefully followed. But in -the early rush for cheap lands in Cuba, and the selfish desire of the -promoter for huge profits and quick sales, regardless of the welfare of -the purchaser, tracts were purchased and trees were set out with neither -capital nor provision for the care and fertilizer required to keep a -grove thriving, from the time of planting the nursery stock to its -ultimate maturity. - -Experience has proved that the most successful varieties of oranges, -intended for the export trade, are those that bear very early in the -fall, and very late in the spring, avoiding thus all competition with -oranges from Florida and the Bahamas. Of these the early and the late -Valencias, together with the Washington navel, that will easily stand -shipment even to Europe and other distant markets, probably have the -preference among most growers in Cuba. - -The quality of this fruit is excellent, and although the navel orange -among some growers has gotten into ill repute, the fault lies not in the -orange itself, but in the fact that inferior nursery stock was imposed -upon many planters during the first days of the Republic. During the -past six years, first-class well selected and packed fruit has brought -from $2 to $5 per crate, and sometimes more, in the eastern and northern -markets of the United States, while common oranges, sold by the truck -load in the Havana market, bring to the grower from $6 to $12 per -thousand, choice fruit selling at from $10 to $20 per thousand. - -For general commercial purposes, especially for shipment abroad, the -Washington navel or Riverside oranges have probably no superior in Cuba. -They are large in size, weighing from 1-1/2 to 2 pounds each. When -properly grown the skin is thin, with deep red color, and the fruit is -full of juice, as one may judge from the fact that no orange will exceed -a pound in weight and not be juicy. - -The navel orange is seedless and exceedingly sweet, although lacking -somewhat in the spicy flavor found in other varieties. Its season for -ripening in this latitude varies from August to November, and extends -into January. In planting groves with this variety care must be taken -that the buds come from trees producing first-class fruit, since the -type is liable to degenerate, unless the grower selects ideal trees from -which to cut his bud wood. - -Both the Jaffa and the Pineapple orange are popular in Cuba, especially -for the local markets of the island, since they ripen during what is -known as the middle orange season, or from December to March. The -pineapple orange is probably one of the most prolific of the mid-season -type. The fruit is pear-shaped, orange yellow in color, and one of the -most highly flavored oranges grown in Cuba. Its skin is thin. The form -of the tree is upright in growth rather than spreading. - -The Jaffa is a dainty round orange, of medium size, golden yellow in -color, with a thin skin, and pulp tender and juicy. It keeps well and -is, as a rule, a prolific bearer. The tree is upright in shape, compact -and not prone to disease. - -The late Valencia, sometimes called Hart’s Tardiff, for commercial -purposes and shipment abroad is recognized as one of the most reliable -varieties grown in the island. It is seldom ripe before the month of -March, and is very much better during May and June. Its commercial -season extends from March to about the first of August, while the fruit -of some trees has been kept in good condition even longer than this. The -tree is thrifty and very prolific, bearing heavy crops every year. The -fruit is of medium size to large, depending on the amount of fertilizer -and care given it, while the color is a bright golden yellow. Good late -Valencia oranges, during the months of May, June and July, have never -sold in the Havana market for less than $15 to $20 per thousand. When -the tree is properly cared for, and the fruit is thoroughly ripe, the -late Valencia is one of the best of the citrus family. - -The Parson Brown is probably the earliest orange of all varieties that -have been imported. It sometimes ripens during the latter part of -August. The fruit is of good size and very sweet, with no particularly -marked flavor. The color of the peel is a greenish yellow, and it may be -eaten even before the yellow color appears. Its early appearance on the -market is the only thing, perhaps, that recommends it for commercial -purposes. - -In 1915 some small plantings were made in Havana Province of an orange -brought from Florida, known as the Lu Gim Gong. The principal merit of -this orange is said to be in its keeping quality on the tree. The fruit, -we are told, will hang on the branches in excellent edible condition -from one year to another. If this reputation can be maintained in Cuba, -oranges for the local market may be had all the year round. Sufficient -time has not elapsed however, since the first trees were brought into -the island, to pass judgment on its merits or its commercial value. - -Although up to the inauguration of the Republic in 1902, the grape -fruit, known in Cuba as the toronja, was little valued, the people of -Cuba have gradually acquired a fondness for it, especially with the -desayuno or early morning coffee. Owing to this fact there is a rapidly -growing local demand for the toronja that promises quite a profitable -home market for this really excellent fruit. The grape fruit of Cuba, -although but little attention has been given to the improvement of -varieties, has been favored in some way by the climate itself, and that -of the entire Island, including the Isle of Pines, is very much sweeter -and juicier than that grown in the United States. - -The cultivation of grape fruit in Cuba, especially in the Isle of Pines, -has been very successful as far as the production of a high-grade fruit -is concerned. The trees are prolific and the crop never fails. -Unfortunately, grape fruit shipped from Cuba to the United States has -not always found a profitable market, and there have been seasons when -the crop became an absolute loss, since the demand abroad was not -sufficient to pay the transportation to northern markets. As the taste -for grape fruit grows, it is possible that this occasional glutting of -the market may become a thing of the past, but at the present time many -of the groves of grape fruit in Cuba are being budded with oranges. This -is true also of lemon trees. - -Limes, as before stated, are quite abundant in some parts of the Island, -growing wild in the forests of hilly sections. The recent demand for -citric acid would suggest that the establishment of a plant for its -manufacture might solve the problem of enormous quantities of citrus -fruit that must go to waste every year unless some method of utilizing -it is discovered in the locality where found. - -There are over 20,000 acres today in this republic on which citrus fruit -is grown. The total value of the estates is estimated at about fifteen -millions of dollars, but with each year it becomes more apparent that -the area of really profitable citrus culture should be limited to a -radius of not more than one hundred miles from some port whence regular -shipments can be made to the United States. This is an essential feature -of the citrus fruit industry. Its disregard means failure. - -The wild varieties of the orange, both the bitter and the sour, although -too isolated and scattered for commercial purposes, are often a godsend -to the prospector in the forest covered mountains, since the juice of -the sour orange mixed with a little water and sugar makes a very -pleasant drink. The wild trees themselves, with their symmetrical -trunks, dark glossy evergreen leaves, white, fragrant flowers, and deep -golden red fruit, that hangs on the tree for months after maturity, -furnish a very attractive sight to the traveler, as well as a safe -indication of the fact that in Cuba the citrus fruit, if not indigenous -to the soil, has found a natural home. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -BANANAS, PINEAPPLES AND OTHER FRUITS - - -The banana is of East Indian origin, but of an antiquity so great that -man has no record of its appearance on earth as an edible fruit, nor can -any variety of the plant be found today growing wild. The importance of -the banana as a source of food for the human race in all warm countries -of low altitude is probably equaled by no other plant, owing to the fact -that a greater amount of nourishment can be secured from an acre of -bananas than from any other product of the soil. - -The banana has accompanied man into all parts of the tropical world, and -for the natives at least still remains the one unfailing staff of life. -The bulb once placed in moist fertile earth will continue to propagate -itself and to produce fruit indefinitely, even without care of any kind, -although for commercial purposes it may be improved and its -productiveness increased through selection and cultivation. - -Few if any plants that nature has given us can be utilized in so many -ways as the banana. The fruit when green, and before the development of -its saccharine matter takes place, consists largely of starch and -gluten, furnishing a splendid substitute, either boiled or baked, for -the potato. Cut into thin slices, and fried in hot oil or lard, it -becomes quite as palatable as the Saratoga chips of the United States. -When baked in an oven and mashed with butter or sauce, it is not a bad -substitute for the potato, and far more nourishing. - -When sun-dried and finely ground, a splendid highly nutritious -banana-flour is produced, that is not only pleasant to the taste, but -according to the report of physicians far more easily digested and -assimilated than is the flour of wheat or corn. From good banana flour, -either bread, crackers, griddle cakes or fancy pastry may be made, that -would be relished on any table. - -The green fruit, when cut into small cubes, toasted and mixed with a -little mocha coffee to give it flavor, offers the best substitute for -that beverage that has been found up to the present time. When -scientifically treated with sugar, the semi-ripe fruit with the addition -of flavoring extracts may be converted into very good imitations of -dried figs, prunes and others forms of preserves, that are not only -healthful and palatable, but are nutritious, and may well serve as an -important contribution to the food products of the world. - -Interesting and important experiments with banana-flour and the various -products of both the ripe and the green fruit were made in Camaguey some -years ago. The results were exceedingly satisfactory, but with the death -of the inventor this promising industry was permitted to drop into -disuse. Had Cuba been able to command the use of, or fall back on this -splendid substitute for wheat flour, there would have been no bread -famine in the island, such as occurred in the spring of 1918, and the -Republic would have been independent of outside assistance. - -Bananas for commercial purposes, or rather for export, have been grown -for many years in the eastern end of the Island, especially in the -neighborhood of Nipe Bay, where deep, rich soil, combined with the heavy -rainfall of summer, results in rapid growth and full development of the -fruit. The banana grown for shipment to the United States is known in -Cuba as the Johnson. There are several types of this, but all resemble -closely the bananas of Costa Rica and other Central American countries, -where the United Fruit Company controls the trade. Owing to the fact -that this Company owns its own groves in Central America, conveniently -located for loading its ships, the United States is supplied today -almost entirely from that section, and the exportation of bananas from -Cuba has been materially reduced. - -Banana lands, too, are almost invariably well adapted to the growing of -sugar cane, hence the great fields of Nipe Bay, and that part of Oriente -once devoted to the cultivation of bananas, were eagerly sought by the -sugar companies of the Island, and most of the territory converted into -big sugar cane plantations. - -There are probably twenty varieties of bananas cultivated in different -parts of Cuba. Some twelve or more of these may be seen growing at the -Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. The variety preferred for -local consumption and always in constant demand is the large cooking -bananas, known in the United States as the plantain. This banana is not -eaten in its natural state, but when cooked, either green or ripe, it -finds a place on every table in Cuba. - -The plant is tall and the fruit at least twice as long as that of the -ordinary banana of commerce. It is not as prolific as other varieties, -seldom bearing more than 30 or 40 to the stem, but it is found on every -farm on the Island and is relied on as a source of food, even more than -is the potato. The bunches under normal conditions command in the market -prices varying from 20¢ to 60¢, dependent upon the number of “hands” or -bananas to the stalk. - -The banana plant reaches a height of twelve or fifteen feet and is -reproduced from the sucker or offshoot of the original bulb. About 400 -hills are set out to the acre. In twelve months the first comes to -maturity, producing a single bunch of fruit, whose price, dependent on -variety and size, varied from 20¢ to $1. Each main stalk during the year -sends up six or eight suckers, that are used to increase the acreage as -desired. Bananas for export are grown profitably only on or near the -edge of deep water harbors, where transportation to northern markets is -assured. - -A description of all of the many varieties of the banana grown in Cuba -would be perhaps superfluous. The most commonly cultivated for the -table, and eaten without cooking, is known as the Manzana or Apple -Banana. Its flavor may suggest the apple, although the choice of name is -probably accidental. The bunch is rather small, and the fruit is bright -yellow, only about one-half the length of the banana of commerce, and -stands out more or less horizontally from the stem on which it grows. -The average price of these when found in the market is about 35¢ per -bunch. - -Some three or four varieties of the red banana are grown in Cuba, and -while quite hardy and easily cultivated they are not prized in the -Indies as in the United States. The dwarf banana, or Platano Enano, has -a very pleasant flavor, not unlike that of the Johnson, or banana of -commerce, and may be found in almost every garden in the Island. The -plant reaches a height of only five or six feet, and the bunches of -fruit are long and heavy, filled almost to the tip, and often supported -by a forked stock, caught under the neck of the stalk so that the weight -of the fruit will not break or pull over the plant itself. - -Another very choice banana is called the “Platano Datil,” or date -banana. The stalks are relatively small and hold but little fruit in -comparison with other varieties, seldom having more than two or three -hands to the bunch. The fruit itself is from two and a half to three -inches in length, round and plump, with a thin skin that can be slipped -off, like a glove, but with a flavor that is probably the most delicate -and delicious of the whole Musa family. - -Approximately 125,000,000 pounds of bananas are exported from the Island -each year, valued under normal conditions at a little over a million -dollars. The great bulk of bananas grown in Cuba are for domestic -consumption. - -Agriculture, although rapidly assuming as it should the dignity of a -science, still has its caprices or apparent contradictions. And so it -happens that the choicest flavored and highest priced bananas of the -world are grown in the waterworn pockets of almost barren dog-teethed -rocks--“los dientes de perro” of the extreme eastern end of Cuba, just -back of Cape Maysi. - -Here the coast rises from sea level in a series of four or five steps or -comparatively flat plateaux, each some four or five hundred feet above -the other, until an altitude of two thousand feet is reached. The rocks -are soft limestone and in the millions of waterworn pockets, the leaves -and dust of the forest jungle have left their deposit for ages. In this -shallow soil bananas not only grow luxuriously but have a remarkably -delicate and delicious flavor, essentially their own. - -The secret of this wondrous growth and par excellence however, lies not -alone in the rocky soil, but in the fact that generous nature at this -point, contributes an abundant shower of rain almost every day in the -year. The low, heavily waterladen clouds of the West Indian seas, driven -by easterly winds strike this series of table lands, one rising above -the other, and shower the lands with daily rains. Hence it is that while -the average rainfall of Cuba is 54 inches, this series of table land of -Cape Maysi has an annual rainfall of 125 inches. - -The result is that in spite of difficult access and a cultivation -confined to the hoe, millions of bunches of choice bananas are grown and -shipped from the mouth of the Little Yumuri every year. United Fruit -steamers on their way north from South and Central American banana -fields stop at the above landing to take on a top dressing of fancy -fruit. - -Owing to the fact that the banana has practically no season, or rather -that it may bear in any month, four suckers of varying ages are set out -in each hill, from which four bunches of fruit, some three months apart, -will result during the year. With four hundred stands or hills to the -acre, the annual yield should be, approximately 1,600 bunches, and -whether the crop is disposed of in the local markets or converted into -banana flour, the growing of bananas may be made one of the important -industries of Cuba. - -Patient toil and judicious selection have made the modern pineapple one -of our most delightful of all fruits, in addition to which, in those -countries not too far removed from markets, it has assumed an important -place as a commercial industry. The fruit of the pineapple, like that of -the strawberry, is a strange compound or consolidation of hundreds of -little fruits, in one symmetrical cone, tinted when ripe with shades -varying from greenish yellow to golden red or orange. Like the -strawberry, it is a ground fruit that must be planted and cultivated -along the lines that bring best results with ordinary field crops. - -Pineapples have been grown in Cuba since the beginning of the Spanish -occupation, perhaps even before, although no mention is made of them as -being cultivated by the Indians. As a commercial product the growing of -the pineapple on a large scale began during the first Government of -Intervention, although they were shipped abroad to some extent before -that time. In point of money value, the industry ranks next to that of -the citrus fruit. Although up to the present time most of the pineapples -intended for export are grown within fifty miles of the city of Havana, -over a million crates are annually shipped to the United States. - -Pineapples may be grown on any rich soil in Cuba, and are considered one -of the staple crops. The slips or offshoots from the parent plant are -set out in long ridges some four feet apart, with intervening spaces -averaging a foot. These produce fruit in one year from planting, and -from each original stalk an average of six suckers may be taken for -planting in other beds, so that with a very small start the acreage may -be easily increased five or six-fold each year. - -About 8,000 plants are considered sufficient for an acre of ground; and -the cost of them when purchased averages about $30 per acre, while the -preparation of the land for pineapple culture will amount to somewhat -more. The net returns under favorable circumstances will vary from $75 -to $100. The average net profit from pineapples grown near Artemisia and -Campo Florida is said to be about $50 per acre. The high price of sugar, -since the beginning of the European War, has, however, caused much of -the former pineapple acreage to be converted into cane fields. - -The profit derived from pineapple culture, as in all fruits or -vegetables of a perishable nature, depends very largely upon the -shipping facilities of the locality selected. Pineapples cannot long be -held on the wharf waiting for either trains or steamers. In this -connection it may be mentioned that the daily ferry between Key West and -Havana, by which freight cars can be loaded in the fields and shipped to -any city in the United States without breaking bulk, has been very -beneficial to growers. - -The Red Spanish, owing to its excellent shipping qualities, is preferred -to all others for export, although many other varieties, such as the -“Pina blanca” or sugarloaf, which will not stand shipment abroad, are -used for local consumption and bring an average price of ten cents -retail throughout the year. - -The largest pines grown for commercial purposes include the Smooth -Cayenne, a beautiful fruit, varying in weight from five to fifteen -pounds. Unfortunate is he who may have partaken of the rich sweet, juicy -Sugar Loaf of Cuba, since it will discourage his fondness for the Smooth -Cayenne, the much advertised Honolulu and other cone shaped products, -whose flavor is not in keeping with their appearance. - -So delicious in flavor is the sugar loaf pine in comparison with those -large varieties suited only for canning or cooking purposes, that the -latter have never become sufficiently popular in Cuba to induce -cultivation. In the Isle of Pines, however, as well as in Florida, the -smooth Cayenne is grown and shipped to the nondiscriminating who live -abroad. With care in packing, however, the sugarloaf may reach northern -markets. - -The pineapple more than any other fruit appeals to the canning industry, -especially in Cuba, where hundreds of thousands that have ripened too -late for the northern markets are left to rot in the fields. There are -no better pineapples grown in the world than in the Island of Cuba, and -the excess or overproduction of the fruit within the next few years will -undoubtedly be handled by properly equipped canning factories and thus -add another industry to the revenues of the Island. - -The Anon is a small shapely tree seldom growing over twenty feet in -height and common throughout all Cuba. The fruit of the Anon, sometimes -called the sugar-apple, resembles a small round greenish white cone, -about the size of the ordinary apple. Its delightful pulp suggests a -mixture of thick sweetened cream, adhering to smooth black sunflower -seeds. Although delicious to eat fresh from the tree, and very useful in -making ices, it does not readily endure shipment, and is thus confined -commercially to the local markets of the larger cities in Cuba. - -The Chirimoya, belonging to the same family, is undoubtedly the queen of -the Anones. It is larger than the Anon, reaching the size of an ordinary -grape-fruit. Its pulp is white, soft and very delicate, while the skin, -unlike the Anon, is smooth, yellowish in color, with a blush of red. - -The Zapote, Nispero or Sapodilla, as it is variously termed, is a -beautiful ornamental tree of the forest, indigenous to tropical America -and the West Indies. The tree, with its trim shapely trunk and branches, -its crisp, dark green foliage that never fails, adds greatly to the -beauty of parks and lawns. The wood is hard, reddish and very durable. -From the trunk exudes chicle gum, used in the United States for making -chewing-gum. In England, since it is more plastic than caoutchouc, and -more elastic than gutta-percha, it is employed as an adulterant to these -products. The fruit in size and color resembles somewhat a small russet -apple. It has a delightfully sweet juicy pulp, not unlike a persimmon -touched with frost. The small glossy seeds are easily removed, and the -fruit is very refreshing when left on ice, or in the early morning -hours. Only with extreme care in packing could zapotes, like many other -fruits of Cuba, stand shipment to foreign countries. - -The Tamarind is a tall, beautiful tree frequently 70 to 80 feet in -height, with a soft, delicate, locust-like foliage, and purplish or -orange veined flowers in terminal clusters. The Tamarind probably -originated in Abyssinia or some other part of eastern tropical Africa, -but at the present time it is scattered throughout the entire tropical -world, and is very common in Cuba. There is perhaps no tree known whose -fruit furnishes a more refreshing fruit than the Tamarind. It is said to -have been brought to Cuba from Southern Europe more than a century ago, -whence it has since been scattered throughout the forest, through the -medium of birds. From its branches, after the flowers have disappeared, -hang clusters of brown colored, bean-like brittle pods. These when ripe -are filled with a sweet yet pleasantly acid pulp, which when mixed with -water makes a refreshing, slightly laxative and healthful drink. - -The Mamey Colorado is another giant tree of the forest, belonging to the -Sapodilla family and indigenous to tropical America. Its fruit is oval -in form, some six or eight inches in length, covered with a tough brown -skin, and filled with a rich peculiar dark red pulp, inclosing a long, -smooth, coffee-colored seed, that is easily separated from the edible -part of the fruit. In consistency and flavor, it suggests slightly a -well-made pumpkin pie. Those unaccustomed to the fruit would probably -find it unpleasantly rich. The yellow or Mamey de Santo Domingo is a -true Mamey, entirely different from the Mamey Colorado. The tree is -large, tall and quite common in the forests of the Island. Its fruit is -round, russet yellow in color and equivalent to a large grapefruit. It -is used only as a preserve, and in that capacity serves a useful -purpose. - -The Guava, or Guayaba, as it is known in Spanish countries, springs up -unwanted in almost every field of Cuba. Its nature is that of a shrub, -spreading out with little form or symmetry. If permitted to propagate -itself, it soon becomes a pest difficult to eradicate. A few choice -varieties, one of which is known as the Pear Guava, imported from Peru, -are very palatable. The meat of the latter is white, rather juicy and -free from seeds. The common Guayaba of the field, while sometimes eaten -raw, is always in demand for jellies, Guayaba paste and marmalades, -which have a ready sale in Cuba and in the United States and are very -popular in the latter country. Animals of all kinds, especially pigs and -horses, are very fond of it. - -The Mamoncillo is another beautiful forest tree indigenous to Cuba, that -spreads out like a giant live-oak or mammoth apple tree. Its round, -russet green fruit hangs from every branch, and is refreshing to the -traveler who stops a moment beneath its shade. Its slightly acid pulp -covers a rather large round seed, the whole resembling a tough skinned -plum, although the tree belongs to an entirely distinct family. - -Figs of all varieties, green, black and yellow, may be found in almost -every garden in Cuba. No effort has been made to preserve them for -commercial purposes, but when ripe they are very refreshing taken with -“desayuno” or the early morning meal. - -The Aguacate is another valuable product of the Caribbean Basin, and -seems to be indigenous to nearly all its shores, including Mexico and -Central and South America. It extended south along the Pacific Coast -also, as far as Peru, where the Spanish conquerors found it in use among -the people of the Incas. Oviedo, in his reports to Charles I of Spain in -1526, stated that he had found this peculiar fruit on the Caribbean -shores of both South and Central America. - -It was also indigenous to Mexico, where the Aztecs called it the -Ahuacatl, whence came the Spanish name of Aguacate, by which it is known -in Cuba. The name Avocado has been adopted by the Department of -Agriculture of the United States, in order to avoid the confusion -resulting from the many local names under which this fruit is known in -various countries. - -The aguacate of Cuba is a tall handsome tree of the forest, scattered -more or less throughout all portions of the Island. It frequently -reaches a height of 70 or 80 feet, and although of an open spreading -nature, nevertheless furnishes grateful shade. There are many types, -although systematic efforts to classify them botanically have not been -very successful. The distinction between them usually made is dependent -largely upon the shape of the fruit or its color. - -The most common variety in Cuba is probably the long, pear-shaped -aguacate, although trees bearing round and oblong fruit are often met, -especially where they have been planted in gardens or orchards. In color -the fruit is usually bright green, or greenish red. Some types again -will vary from greenish red to a reddish purple. - -The pear shaped aguacates vary in length from five to ten inches, and -will average probably a pound and a half in weight. The round or oblong -types are usually green in color, with a diameter of five or six inches. -The skin is about 1/16th of an inch in thickness, smooth and bright, and -peels freely from the inclosed meat. The meat is rather difficult to -describe since it resembles in flavor and texture no other edible fruit -known. Its color is golden yellow, resembling both in consistency and -shade, rich, cold butter, and is used sometimes as a substitute for this -product of the dairy. Close to the skin the meat has a slightly greenish -tinge. It is very rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor, that -evades all description. - -The aguacate may be eaten just as it comes from its thin shell-like -covering. In the center of the fruit is a large hard seed some two and a -half inches in diameter. This never adheres to the pulp, and may be -lifted out readily so that the fruit can be eaten with a spoon. - -The aguacate forms the finest salad in the world. When used for this -purpose the pocket from which the seed was removed is usually filled -with broken ice, over which is poured a dressing of salt, vinegar and -mustard or pepper, as fancy may happen to dictate. When filled with -small cubes of sugar loaf pineapple and mayonnaise dressing, you have a -“salad divine.” When taken this way, the aguacate is cut in half, the -shell-like covering forming the bowl from which it is eaten. Owing to -its content of oil, and other nutritious elements, the aguacate will -probably go further towards sustaining life and producing energy than -any other fruit known. It is also excellent when removed from the peel, -cut into cubes and eaten in soup. - -The tree is a prolific bearer, the fruit ripening during the months of -July to October inclusive. Other varieties recently introduced come into -bearing in October and remain in fruit until January, some occasionally -holding over until the month of March. - -In the development and improvement of the aguacate, it is the aim of the -horticulturist to lengthen the bearing period as much as possible, and -through selection to eliminate any space between the pulp and the seed; -for the latter, if loose, will often bruise the fruit in handling and -shipping. Since the aguacate, like most fruit trees, is not true to -seed, this work can be accomplished only through grafting, and although -successful, requires care and experience. The ordinary aguacate of the -forest bears the fourth or fifth year from the seed, while the grafted -varieties will bear the third year. A tree of the latter type, when five -years of age, will bear from one hundred to five hundred aguacates, that -will average two pounds in weight, and will sell in the fruit markets -of the United States at from $1 to $3 a dozen. - -The tree may be grown on any well drained land and under conditions -similar to those of the mango. On hillsides that have sufficient depth -of soil, it does very well, and as the demand for fancy fruit in the -palatial hotels of the United States increases, the growing of aguacates -for commercial purposes will undoubtedly be undertaken in Cuba or a -still larger scale. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -GRAPES, CACAO, AND VANILLA - - -In spite of the fact that the Grape is indigenous to Cuba, prohibitory -laws on the part of Spain discouraged its culture in all of her -colonies, so that vine culture in the Island has had no opportunity to -thrive. The few isolated specimens found occasionally in gardens have -produced excellent fruit, especially in the neighborhood of Guantanamo, -where French refugees from Santo Domingo introduced a few plants in the -beginning of the 19th century. - -Realizing the importance of grape culture in any country where possible, -Dr. Calvino, Director of the Government Experiment Station, in the first -days of his administration, sent into the forests of Cuba for healthy -specimens of the wild grape, indigenous to the country, known as the -“Uva Cimarron.” These were brought to the Station and set out in soil -especially prepared. After less than a year had elapsed, four or five -lanes, several hundred feet in length, for which trellises of wire have -been provided, showed wonderful growth. This native sour grape has -simply covered the supports with a wilderness of leaves, vines and -fruit. - -Correspondence with Professor Munson of Texas, one of the most noted -grape specialists of the United States, resulted in bringing to Cuba a -dozen or more varieties of choice grapes from that section. These, -together with others brought from France, Spain and other European -countries, have been planted at the Station, where, in spite of the -change of climate and conditions, they seem to thrive. The Director is -planning to bud the wild stock of the Cuban grape with all of these -choice imported varieties, in order to ascertain which may give the -best results in this country. - -Several acres are devoted to this experimental grape field and have been -supplied with convenient trellises and facilities for irrigation. The -Director and those interested with him are much encouraged with the -present stage of the experiment and have great confidence in their -ability to establish successfully in Cuba many of the choice grapes of -the world, although the medium of the vigorous Cimarron grape of the -island. If these experiments prove successful, there is no reason why -many of the hillsides of this country should not be converted into -immense vineyards, and the cultivation of grapes become a prominent and -permanent source of agricultural wealth. - -Although intoxication among the inhabitants of Cuba is almost unknown, -the drinking of wine, as in all other Latin American countries, has been -a custom from time immemorial and the annual importation of wine, most -of which comes from Spain, approximates $2,500,000 a year. Should the -culture of grapes in Cuba meet with the success expected, there is no -reason why this industry, together with that of wine making, might not -be carried on in connection with coffee growing in the mountains, since -the soils of the fertile hills throughout the Island are adapted to the -culture of both at the same time. - -In the matter of popular beverages it is somewhat interesting to note -that in each hemisphere, nature provided trees of the forest, the fruit -of which for countless centuries has furnished to man beverages that -today are almost as essential as food. In fact the Cacao of the western -hemisphere is a very nutritious food and drink at the same time. While -coffee is indigenous to Arabia and Abyssinia, whence the trees have been -carried into nearly all parts of the tropical world, cacao, on the other -hand, was indigenous to the West Indies, to Mexico, Central America and -probably to all countries bordering on the Caribbean. The shores of the -latter great sea or basin of the ocean, with their rich warm valleys -formed by the rivers tributary to it, are the natural home of the cacoa, -botanically known as Theobroma, or food of the gods. - -When Cortez forced himself as an unwelcome guest upon Montezuma, in the -first quarter of the sixteenth century, he found a delicious drink -called caca-huatl, made by the Aztecs from the seeds of this really -marvellous plant. The taste of chocolate is so delicate and so palatable -that fondness for the drink does not have to be acquired in any country. -From the West Indies cacao, or cocoa beans, were carried to Spain and -the cultivation of the plant was introduced into the warmer latitudes of -the eastern hemisphere. The government of Spain, with its short-sighted -greed of those days, succeeded in keeping the manufacture of this drink -more or less secret from the outside world, and for chocolate demanded -prices so high that only the rich could afford to buy it, retarding thus -its general use in Europe for nearly a century. - -The consumption of chocolate today, both as a beverage and as a food, -especially in the manufacture of confections, has assumed throughout the -world very large proportions. Approximately 150,000,000 pounds of -chocolate and cocoa produced from the cacao trees of the Caribbean basin -are consumed in civilized countries, while the demand for the beans is -increasing by rapid bounds every year. - -There is perhaps no form of nutritious food more condensed and complete -than that of the better grade of chocolate. Nine-tenths of the content -of this wonderful bean are assimilated by the system, hence its value -not only to travelers but also to armies and forces in the field, who -demand condensed foods like chocolate, with a large amount of -nourishment in a very small bulk. An analysis of cacao yields of -carbohydrates, 37%; of fat, 29%; and of protein, 22%. In the better -grades of chocolate, used for both food and drink, there is practically -no waste. - -From the above it may be readily seen that the cultivation of cacao, -from which the chocolate and cocoa of commerce are derived, has become -one of the standard agricultural industries of the world, and one which -for the future gives great promise, since the demand for the cacao beans -is increasing rapidly, as is also the market price. - -The Central American republics bordering on the Caribbean, as well as -the northern coast of Colombia and Venezuela, are the greatest producers -of cacao, while Trinidad, Cuba and other islands of the West Indies, -produce considerable amounts. - -The culture of cacao, like that of coffee and citrus fruits, is a -healthful and profitable employment, and especially agreeable for those -fond of life in the open, and who enjoy living in the mountains and -valleys that slope toward the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. Its -cultivation may be carried on where conditions are favorable, in company -with coffee, since while the latter is grown on the fertile foothills -and mountain sides, cacao is at its best in the sheltered valleys of the -forest. Cacao demands a rich, deep, moist soil, well drained, since the -roots of the tree will not tolerate standing water, and the subsoil, if -not pervious, must lie at least six feet below the surface. - -The forest-covered valleys of tropical Cuba, receiving as they do the -washings of the hillsides, upon which decayed vegetable matter has -accumulated during centuries, furnish ideal locations for cacao. In -preparing for the cultivation of the plant, all underbrush is removed, -leaving only the tall stately trees, that although giving the required -shade will still admit some sunlight to the soil below; otherwise the -cacao, reaching up for the light, assumes a tall slender growth, -inconvenient in gathering the crop. Trees for commercial purposes should -not attain a height of more than 25 or 30 feet, the branches leaving -the trunk six or eight feet from the ground. They are planted as a rule -from 12 to 15 feet apart, which is equivalent to from 200 to 300 trees -per acre. - -There are several varieties of the cacao, although that in common use in -Cuba is known as the Cacao Criolla, and is not subject to diseases as -are some of the other varieties grown in South America. The fruit is an -elongated pod of cucumber shape, with a rough corrugated skin, hanging -close to the trunk and branches. The side facing the sun carries shades -of red and yellow that produce a rather startling color effect when -first seen in the forest. - -The cacao has two major crops each year. The pods when ripe are removed -from the trees with a hooked pruning knife attached to a bamboo pole, -and collected into piles, sometimes covered with earth, where they -undergo a period of fermentation lasting five or six days. After this -the seeds are removed from the pods and carefully dried for the market. -In the days of Montezuma such was the value of the cacao seeds or beans -that they took the place of money or small change in adjusting -purchases, and they are recognized even today among the Indians in -representation of values. In the cacao factories, the oil of the bean, -which represents 50% of its weight, is extracted and known to the trade -as cocoa butter. The residue, known as the cacao nib, is ground and -forms the chocolate and cocoa of commerce. Even the hulls are used to -make a low grade of cocoa known as “La Miserable.” - -The tree comes into bearing the fourth year after planting and attains -its maturity in about twelve years, with a life extending over a half a -century or more. The yield per tree varies greatly, or from four to -twelve pounds annually, with an average, under favorable conditions, or -five or six pounds. This extreme range in the productivity of cacao is -dependent almost entirely on the fertility of the soil, since the plant -is greedy in its demand for nourishment, and it quickly responds to the -generous use of fertilizer. In the ordinary sense of the term no -cultivation whatever is given to the cacao tree, since it is truly -speaking a denizen of the forest, doing better when the soil above its -roots is never disturbed, although a mulch of leaves to maintain the -moisture is very beneficial. Weeds and brush that may appear are removed -with a machete. - -The successful culture of cacao requires experience and care, especially -during the period of fermentation through which the pods must pass -before the removal of the seeds. This latter work is done usually by -women and children, hence, as in the case of coffee, cacao in many -senses of the word is well adapted to colonies and settlements composed -of families who have grouped together and made permanent homes in the -mountains and valleys that border on the Caribbean and the Gulf. - -Cuba is exporting at the present time, mostly from the province of -Oriente, approximately two and a half million pounds of cacao, valued at -$15.20 per hundred pounds, or $380,000. The commodity is staple and the -demand at good prices constant, while the cacao once prepared for market -does not deteriorate or suffer loss if sale is delayed, all of which is -to the advantage of the grower. - -The north shores of the Province of Pinar del Rio, swept by the -northeast trade winds throughout the entire year, furnish in many places -conditions most favorable to the culture of cacao and coffee. The same -is true of southeastern Santa Clara, of the northern slopes of the -Sierra de Cubitas and of the coasts of Oriente from the Bay of Nipe on -the north, clear around to Cabo Cruz on the southwest. - -Both in nature and in its domestic use, cacao and the vanilla bean have -always been more or less closely associated. Both are denizens of the -deep forest, and are indigenous to the two Americas from Mexico to Peru. -The Aztecs of Anhuac, the Mayas of Central America, and the subjects of -the Incas, further south, added the delicate flavor of the vanilla to -their chocolate, made from the beans of the caca-huatl, from which the -name of cacao was taken. This association of vanilla with chocolate and -other confectioneries has continued into modern times. - -The so-called vanilla bean is not, as the name would indicate, of the -legume family, but is an orchid, climbing the trunks of trees that grow -on the rich soils of tropical forests. The vine may be germinated from -seed planted in leaf mold at the base of the tree, but where cultivated -it is propagated from cuttings and must have the shade of trees in order -to thrive, climbing the trunks to a height of 20 to 30 feet, by means of -fibrous roots that come from nodes along its length. - -The leaves are bright green, long and fleshy; the flowers are white and -usually fragrant, having eccentric forms peculiar to the orchid family. -The pods, from six to nine inches in length, are cylindrical and some -three-eighths of an inch in thickness. The vine begins to bear in the -third year from planting and will continue to do so for thirty to forty -years with but little care or culture. The pods are gathered before they -are fully ripe, dried in the shade and “sweated” or fermented in order -to develop and fix the delightful aroma for which they are famous. - -It is during this period of fermentation that the bean requires careful -watching and expert knowledge in order that the process of sweating may -be perfect, since upon this chemical change in the texture of the beans -the value of the product really depends. After fermentation the pods are -carefully dried, tied in small bundles and made ready for market or -export. They will keep indefinitely and the high prices secured for very -small bulk renders them an attractive crop to handle. - -The vanilla of commerce is not only used to flavor chocolate, sweetmeats -and liquors, but also enters into the composition of many perfumes, -owing to an aromatic alkaloid that exudes from and crystallizes on the -outer coating of the best quality beans. These under normal conditions -are worth from $12 to $16 per pound. - -Owing perhaps to the lack of experimental initiative, the vanilla bean, -although at home in the heavy forests of Cuba, with the exception of a -few instances has never attracted the attention of those who are in a -position to grow and care for this valuable plant. In conjunction with -cacao, coffee, or any industry carried on in the rich forest-covered -mountain valleys of the Island, there is no reason why the culture of -the vanilla bean should not be made very profitable. - -Aside from the removal of the beans from the vine, the only effort -required is that of assisting nature in the fertilization of the -flowers, which in the forest, of course, is carried on by insects, but -for commercial purposes, in order to insure a large crop of beans, it is -well to see that each flower is fertilized by shaking a little of the -pollen upon the stamens. This is readily done with the use of a light -bamboo ladder that may be carried from tree to tree. - -Indians from the eastern forests of Mexico, between Vera Cruz and -Tampico, would readily come to Cuba to teach the best methods of curing -or take charge of the treatment of the beans after picking, and thus -insure the success of a very profitable crop, which up to the present -has received practically no attention. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -VEGETABLE GROWING - - -With the advent of the American colonists in 1900, truck gardening -sprang rapidly into prominence in Cuba until today it forms an important -part of the small farmer’s revenue. Most of the well-known vegetables of -the United States are grown here, not only for local markets, but for -shipment abroad. They are usually planted at the close of the rainy -season in October or November, and are brought to maturity in time to -reach the North during winter and early spring, when high prices -prevail. - -Those vegetables from which the best results have been obtained are -early potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers, okra, white squash, -and string beans. These may be grown in the rich soils of any part of -the Island, but are only profitable when cultivated close to railroads -or within easy reach of steamship lines having daily sailings from -Havana. Profits depend on location, soil, water supply, intelligent -cultivation and success in reaching markets in which there is a demand -for the product. - -The long belt of land lying just south of the Organ Mountains of Pinar -del Rio, extending from east to west throughout the province, furnishes -the largest tract for vegetable growing in Cuba. The conditions in this -section are exceptionally favorable to that industry. Close to the base -of the mountain range, the surface is rather rolling, but soon slopes -away into the level prairies extending out toward the Caribbean. The -soil as a rule is a dark grey sandy loam, easily worked at all seasons, -and responds quickly to the use of fertilizers and to cultivation. - -Numerous small streams that have their origin back in the mountains, -furnish excellent natural drainage, and some of them can easily be used -for irrigating purposes, if necessary, in the dry months of February and -March. The Western Railway of Havana runs through the entire length of -the vegetable belt, reinforced by a splendid automobile drive, more or -less parallel, connecting the further extremity of Pinar del Rio with -the markets and wharves of Havana. - -These lands are very productive, and under intelligent management, -especially when irrigation can be employed, may be rendered exceedingly -profitable, through the cultivation of vegetables. In some sections, the -semi-vuelta or Partido tobacco fields monopolize the use of the land -during the fall months, but there are nevertheless hundreds of thousands -of acres in this district that if properly cultivated, and conducted in -connection with canning plants, would yield large revenues to the -Island. - -Nearly all seed is brought from the United States, fresh, each year, and -the planting season for some crops begins in September, extending -through the entire winter, especially where irrigation or fortunate -rains furnish a sufficient amount of moisture to carry the crop through -the dry months of early spring. - -The methods employed in vegetable growing are identical with those of -the United States, and the results are practically the same, aside from -the one important fact that all fall grown vegetables, or those that may -be placed on the markets of large cities in the United States between -January and April, bring, as a rule, very high prices. - -Later in the spring the vegetable gardens of Florida and the Gulf States -come into competition, causing the growers of the Island gradually to -yield to those of sections further north. It is at this time, or in the -late spring, that the canning industry could take care of the great -surplus of vegetables that for any reason might fail to find a -profitable market abroad. Well equipped plants could handle this crop -with great benefit both to the vegetable growers and the canners. - -Irish potatoes, planted in the fall so that the crop may be brought to -maturity in March, have proven very successful throughout this section, -as well as in the beautiful Guines Valley, southeast of Havana. The -potato growers of Cuba have experimented with nearly all of the standard -varieties of the United States and it is rather difficult to determine -which has given the best results. - -The Early Rose variety of Irish potato is quite a favorite in Cuba, -owing to its rapid growth and productivity. Later potatoes, while -finding a sale perhaps in the local market, are not considered -profitable, since, as a rule, one can procure during summer and fall -excellent potatoes from Maine and Nova Scotia, with greater economy than -by growing them in Cuba, at times when the land can be more profitably -used for other purposes. - -Potatoes, of course, need barn yard manures and fertilizers, the more -the better; or rather, the greater is the return. The yield varies -according to conditions anywhere from forty to one hundred barrels and -more per acre. The Cuban product is almost invariably of good quality, -and when placed in the eastern markets of the United States in the month -of March, will bring anywhere from $6 to $10 per barrel. Under normal -conditions $8 seems to be the ruling price for Cuban potatoes on the -wharves at New York, where they are sold as exotics or new potatoes. -Thus $500 may be considered a fair return per acre. - -Green peppers, too, have been found to be one of the most satisfactory -and profitable crops in Cuba. They are planted in rows three feet apart, -spaced a foot or more in the row so that they can be kept clean with -adjustable cultivators drawn by light ponies. Hand cultivation, although -sometimes indulged in, with the present price of labor is practically -impossible. - -A well-known pepper grower of the Guayabal district, in the northwestern -corner of Havana Province, on less than a hundred acres of land, grew -6,000 crates of green peppers in the winter of 1917-18, that netted him -$6 per crate in the City of New York. Peppers are easily grown and -handled, and the market or demand for them seems to be quite constant, -hence they have become one of the favorite vegetables for the export -trade. - -Tomatoes, too, are grown very successfully in Cuba during the late fall -and winter. The seed is secured from reliable houses in the United -States each year, and is selected largely with reference to the firmness -or shipping quality of the fruit. The methods of cultivation are similar -to those employed in the United States. The weeds are usually killed out -of the field in the early spring, and kept down with profitable cover -crops, such as the carita and velvet bean. These, when turned under or -harvested by hogs, place the soil in perfect condition. - -The planting is done usually in October and November and the cultivation -carried on either with native horses or mules, or gasoline-propelled -cultivators. The yield where the water control and other conditions are -favorable, is large, and the price secured in the northern markets -varies from $2 to $5 per half bushel crate. It is true that when -tomatoes from Florida and the Gulf States begin to go north in large -quantities, there are frequently reports of glutted markets and falling -prices. It is then that the canning factory comes to the rescue of the -planter and contracts for the remainder of his stock at satisfactory -prices. - -Of all varieties, the Redfield Beauty is probably the tomato most in -vogue among growers in Cuba. It grows luxuriantly and yields from two -hundred to three hundred crates per acre. - -Eggplants as a rule are successfully grown on all rich mellow soils. The -methods of cultivation are almost identical with those employed in -growing tomatoes. A small pear shaped variety is grown for the local -markets in Havana and other cities, but for export purposes it would be -unsatisfactory. The finest varieties known in the States are all found -here. The yield under favorable conditions is large and the crop stands -shipment for long distances without injury. - -As a rule the prices obtained in the north have rendered the growing of -egg plants very profitable. From $3 to $7 per crate are the usual -limitations in price. The uncertainty of this price, however, in -different seasons, has rendered the production of the eggplant rather an -interesting gamble. This is true regardless of the quality of the fruit, -in nearly all products sold in distant markets. - -Okra, or quimbombo, as the vegetable is called in Cuba, while not as a -rule commanding fancy prices, nevertheless brings satisfactory returns, -both abroad and in the local market, where the demand is more or less -steady. Like all others mentioned, it is strictly a late fall or winter -vegetable, and its cultivation is identical with methods employed in the -United States. Prices usually obtained are from two to three dollars a -half bushel crate. - -The growing of lima beans in Cuba has proved a gilt-edge undertaking for -those who have been careful in the selection of seed and proper -cultivation after planting. The price obtained in the United States has -varied between $2 and $8 per hamper, or bean basket, with an average of -perhaps $5. The crop is quickly grown and with sufficient labor to -gather the beans at the proper time the grower is relieved of his only -cause for worry. The labor problem can usually be overcome if the farm -is located near any one of the small towns where help of women and -children is available. - -String beans, while readily grown in Cuba, do not always find a demand -in the northern markets sufficient to justify the fancy prices -frequently obtained for other vegetables. The local demand in Havana, -while not large, is nevertheless satisfactory to the small farmer living -within a short distance of the city, where he can deliver his crop -without the expense of railroad transportation. - -The summer squash, too, succeeds very well in Cuba, and if the crop does -not encounter the competition of the growers in the Gulf States, it is, -as a rule, fairly profitable. A variety of the native squash known as -the Calabaza, always finds a ready sale in the local markets. This -prolific Criolla production is almost always planted with corn by the -native farmers, since its yield never fails and its market is constant -and satisfactory. - -Recent experiments have been made by an American grower who has imported -the seed of the small pie-pumpkin into Cuba. To use his own words, “This -variety grows even faster than weeds, and the pumpkins cover the ground -so thick that you can hardly avoid walking on them.” They make a very -fine fall and winter crop, with an average yield of five tons per acre. -This delicate variety of pumpkin, when canned, will probably prove -available for export purposes. - -The great drawback to profitable vegetable growing in Cuba lies largely -in the uncertainty of the northern markets, where prices fluctuate so -rapidly, with the minimum and the maximum so far apart, that it is -difficult for the vegetable grower, a thousand miles away, to count with -any certainty on the returns from his crops when shipped abroad. The -establishment of receiving agents, perhaps, under the control of men who -were financially interested with the growers themselves, might remedy -this difficulty. The canning industry, if established on a sufficiently -broad scale, would also add stability to the price of all crops grown in -Cuba, and place the cultivation of vegetables on a more certain -foundation. - -The introduction of irrigation, wherever possible, insures so generous a -crop of almost any vegetable planted in this Island, that the returns -to the grower, even where the price may not be fancy, will be decidedly -remunerative. The incalculable advantages to be secured by irrigation, -especially in the growing of vegetables, planted in the late fall and -gathered during the winter and early spring, when rains are not always -forthcoming, is a matter in which the Department of Agriculture is -deeply interested. - -One of the best irrigation engineers of the United States has been -invited to go over the field of Cuba, and to advise the Government in -regard to the various localities in which irrigation plants may be -installed with success and profit to the growers. These plans when -carried out will prove of marvellous benefit to the agricultural -industry and will greatly increase the revenues derived from tobacco, as -well as from vegetables. - -The great advantage, however, enjoyed by all vegetable growers in Cuba, -lies in the fact that stormy weather never interferes with the -cultivation of crops; sunshine may be depended upon every day of the -year, and the farmer is seldom if ever compelled to lay aside his -implements, and wait for the weather to adjust itself to his needs. In -other words, he can always work if he wants to, and the market abroad, -if he “strikes it right,” may yield him a small fortune from a -comparatively few acres in a very few months. - -It would be misleading to the prospective farmer or stranger to quote -the almost fabulous returns at times secured on some favored spot, but -with irrigation, which insures absolute control of the growing crop, the -profits from vegetable raising may run anywhere from $100 to $500 per -acre, and more. - -Among those “striking it rich” incidents that may be occasionally found, -may be mentioned a little tract of ground consisting of only four acres -of land, located along the railroad track, not 100 yards from a station -on the Western Railway. Here two Spanish storekeepers placed under -cultivation four acres of land that had been previously prepared with a -carita bean crop, hog fed and turned under. These partners had a well -sunk in the middle of the tract, and a little gasoline engine installed -that enabled them to adjust the water supply each day to the -requirements of the field. - -Here they planted eggplants, tomatoes, green peppers and Irish potatoes. -The cultivation was done by one man and a pony. During the gathering of -the crops some additional help was required, although the two owners -worked hard themselves during late afternoons and early mornings. The -return from these crops during the four months in which they were in the -ground, amounted to $6,430. - -Incidents of this kind are not by any means common, but nevertheless -they give some indication of what may be accomplished in growing -vegetables in Cuba, when the work is conducted along modern lines and -under intelligent management. Capital, of course, is necessary, as in -all other industries, but the reward, even with the element of the -gamble taken into consideration, is to say the least very tempting. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -STANDARD GRAINS AND FORAGE - - -Corn or Maize was probably indigenous to the Island of Cuba, since it -was one of the chief staples of food used by the Siboney Indians at the -time of Columbus’s visit. This cereal may be grown in any of the -provinces, although varieties introduced from the United States do not -give the results that might be expected. - -The native Cuban corn has a comparatively short ear with its point -closed by Nature. This prevents the entrance of the grub or worm, so -destructive to the northern varieties that have been introduced here. -The kernel is hard, bright, yellow, rich in proteins and in oil, and is -very nutritious as a food. - -In spite of the small size of the ear, on rich lands 40 bushels per acre -are frequently secured, so that, taking into consideration the fact that -two crops may be successfully grown in twelve months, the sum total of -the yield is not bad, and the price of maize in the local markets is -always satisfactory. Experiments are being carried on at the present -time towards improving the native Cuban corn, some of which have met -with success. - -The method of growing corn in Cuba has little to recommend it. -Improvements will come, however, as a result of the excellent -instructive work being carried on by the Government Experimental -Station. As a rule, corn in Cuba is planted too close, and with -absolutely no attention paid to the selection of seed; hence we seldom -find more than one ear to a stalk. - -A rather novel experiment, carried on by Mr. F. R. Hall, of Camaguey, -has proved quite satisfactory in increasing the length of the ear. His -corn is grown in hills four feet apart and cultivated in both -directions. Two grains are planted in the hill, one a grain of selected -Cuban corn, the other a grain of first-class American corn. The latter -will make the taller stalk of the two, and from the former, or native -stock, the tassel is nipped off, so that only pollen from the American -corn is permitted to fall upon the silk and thus fertilize the native -ear. - -The result of this experiment has been a very much larger ear, the tip -of which has retained the tight twist of the husk, peculiar to native -corn. This closes in and protects the grain from attack of worms or -borers. By selecting from this cross, and again crossing or fertilizing -with Northern corn, a greatly improved variety of maize has been -produced. This experiment is sufficient to demonstrate that a great deal -may be done towards improving both the size and quality of Cuban corn. - -Between the rows, calabaza, a variety of native pumpkin, greatly -resembling that of the United States, is grown as a rule, thus following -one of the precepts of New England. In this connection pumpkins from -Massachusetts seed give excellent results, planted with corn. The demand -for corn in the market, owing to the large amount consumed in the -Island, insures always a good price to the grower. - -Nearly all varieties of millet and kaffir corn thrive well in Cuba and -furnish a very nutritious food for both stock and poultry. This millet, -or “millo,” of which two varieties, the tall white and the short black, -are in common use, is apparently free from enemies, and since it seems -to thrive in seasons either wet or dry, and in lands either moist or -subject to drought, the crop is considered very reliable and hence -profitable especially where poultry raising is contemplated. - -Wheat was grown at one time for home consumption, in the Province of -Santa Clara. Here, on the high table lands, with a comparatively low -temperature during the cool, dry winter months, it came to maturity. In -one locality west of the city of Sancti Spiritus in Santa Clara, there -is quite an extensive table land, with an altitude of some 2,000 feet, -where a very good variety of wheat was grown along about the middle of -the 19th century. It is said to have furnished an abundance of good -grain that was highly prized in that section. Just why its cultivation -was abandoned is not known, aside from the fact that most of the -agriculturists found growing sugar cane vastly more profitable. With -money from the sugar crop flour could be purchased and the demands of -the baker satisfied. - -Experiments are contemplated in the near future in the growing of wheat -in this same locality. But regardless of the results, it is more than -probable that custom or inclination will impel the people of Cuba under -normal conditions to purchase their wheat from the United States. - -Nevertheless, extensive experiments in the propagation of wheat, the -seed of which has been brought from many countries, are now in process -of development in the grounds of the Government Agricultural Station. - -These will probably be supplemented a little later by plantings from -selected seeds of the most promising varieties on the fertile soils of -high plateaus in southeastern Santa Clara. Experimental work at the -Central or Havana Station facilitates also the study of any disease that -may attack different varieties of wheat before they have been accepted -as permanently successful in Cuba. - -Next to wheat bread, rice is in greater demand than any other food -staple in Cuba. Large quantities are imported every year from India, and -were it not for the low price of the product, greater attention would -probably have been paid to its local production. Upland or dry rice has -been grown to a certain extent in Cuba for many years. Nearly every -farmer with suitable soil, who can command irrigation in any form, has a -small patch of rice for his own consumption, and that grown from the -Valencia seed is much preferred to the imported rice. - -The European War, with its attendant difficulties of high freights and -shortages of shipping, has stimulated the planting of rice in Cuba to a -greater extent than ever before. A series of experiments are now being -carried on at the Government Agricultural Station, in order to secure -more definite knowledge in regard to the success of rice in various -soils, altitudes and months of planting. For this purpose seeds of the -Valencia, Barbados and Bolo, the exotics also from Honduras and Japan, -together with American upland and golden rice, are being tried. The -last-named seems excellently adapted to Cuban soil and latitude. - -In order for rice to be successfully grown, however, certain conditions -are absolutely essential. Most important of these is first, a fairly -rich soil, underlaid with an impervious subsoil of clay, and located in -sections where irrigation, or the application of water to the crop, may -be possible. Comparatively level valleys or basins, lying close to the -mountains, that have impervious clay subsoil, are considered favorite -localities. The preparation for rice, as with most other crops, -necessitates the extermination of all weeds and the thorough ploughing -or pulverizing of the soil, after which it should be planted with -drilling machines as is wheat or oats. The sowing of the rice in seed -beds to be afterwards transplanted requires entirely too much hand labor -for the successful cultivation of this or any other crop in Cuba, unless -perhaps an exception might be made of tobacco and a few winter -vegetables. Machinery adapted to the cultivation of rice or any other -crop, is absolutely essential to successful agriculture in Cuba at the -present time. - -Rice is planted with the earliest spring rains of March or April, when -possible, so that the crop may be taken off in August or September. When -lack of early rains renders this dangerous, it is planted in late May, -or early June, and gathered in the month of October. Seeds of a variety -of rice that is said to thrive in salt marshes have been received at the -Experimental Station and will be thoroughly tried out a little later. - -North and east of Moron, in western Camaguey, are low savannas extending -over thousands of acres that are covered during much of the rainy season -with a few inches of water, and where the surface, even during the dry -season, is moist, although not muddy. These great level areas have -practically no drainage and are almost invariably saturated with water, -although in no sense of the word can they be considered swamps, and if -planted in rice, as are the low prairies of southern Louisiana and -Texas, would seem to give promise of success. In the district above -mentioned, these flat damp lands extend in a wild belt for many miles -along the north coast of Camaguey, between the mountains and the ocean. -They are covered with grass on which cattle feed during the dry season. - -There are many other similar lands located at different points along the -coast of Cuba. If these could be successfully dedicated to the -cultivation of rice, following where convenient the methods prevalent in -the western Gulf States, an enormous saving to the Island would be made -as well as the development of a now neglected industry. The importation -of rice from the orient and other foreign countries amounts to -approximately three hundred and thirty million pounds, valued at -$12,000,000. - -With the increase of population and the demand for rice as a staple food -product, the cultivation of this grain, so popular in all Latin-American -Republics, will undoubtedly be considered. Experiments now being carried -on at the Government Station will ultimately determine the varieties and -conditions under which it can be most economically and successfully -grown in Cuba. - -In spite of the fact that two of the best grasses known, both of which -are said to yield even better here than in either Africa or the plains -of Parana, whence they came, flourish in Cuba, the Island still imports -large quantities of hay from the United States for use in cities. The -potreros or meadows of Cuba with their great fields, stretching over -many leagues of territory, are as rich as any known, and can support as -a rule at least twenty head of cattle to every caballeria or 33 acres. - -The Parana grass of South America grows on the low lands of Cuba with a -luxuriance that will almost impede travel through it on horseback. The -jointed stems of this grass, interlacing with each other, frequently -grow to a length of ten or 12 feet. The same is true of the Guinea, -brought from the west coast of Africa, which is adapted to the higher -lands and hillsides, and where the soil beneath is rich, it often -reaches a height of 6 or 8 feet, completely hiding the grazing cattle or -the man who may be endeavoring to force his way afoot across the field -in search of them. The native indigenous grasses of the Island, although -suitable for grazing purposes, are rather tough and hard and will not -fatten livestock as will the two grasses referred to above. - -Probably the best permanent pasture in Cuba is secured by planting -Bermuda. This grass has been imported from the United States and -installed in Cuba with splendid results. On rich soils the growth is -rank, and the sod firm, with a larger yield probably on account of the -more favorable climate. Stock of all kind, especially horses and hogs, -are very fond of the Bermuda grass, preferring it in fact to any other. - -Some stock growers, in the Province of Camaguey, are planting large -fields of it, as one rancher explained “just to tickle the palate” of -his brood mares. This same grass, too, is being used for lawns in nearly -all parks and private grounds in the neighborhood of Havana. With a -little care at the beginning of the rainy season, a splendid firm lawn -can be made with Bermuda in a few weeks. - -Recognizing the value of alfalfa, which is today probably the standard -forage of the Western and Southwestern States of North America, -experiments were made in Cuba at different times, but not always with -success. A fairly good stand was apparently secured on President -Menocal’s farm “El Chico,” just out of Havana. But in spite of earnest -efforts on the part of the gardener, weeds eventually choked it out, so -that the field was abandoned. At the Experimental Station a small tract -of alfalfa has been recently planted that seems to give promise of -permanence and complete success. - -In the Province of Camaguey, a well-known stock raiser from Texas -secured seed from his native state that had been inoculated, and planted -it in drills three feet apart. All weeds had been previously -exterminated through the use of a heavy cover crop of velvet beans, -turned under. As soon as the alfalfa began to show, light-pony-drawn -cultivators were kept running between the rows, cutting out every weed -that appeared, and allowing the alfalfa gradually to spread, until the -spaces between rows were completely covered, and further cultivation was -unnecessary. The soil was rich and moist, and could be irrigated in -February or March if necessary. From his alfalfa today, he is making -seven heavy cuttings a year, which demonstrates the fact that this -valuable forage plant under favorable conditions can be successfully -grown in Cuba. - -Cowpeas of almost all varieties are successfully grown in Cuba as they -are in the Gulf States of America, where the climate, aside from cold -rains and frost in winter, is somewhat similar to Cuba. Both the peas -and the pea-vine hay command good prices throughout the year, in the -local markets of the cities; hence the cultivation of this excellent -forage plant and vegetable, especially when grown with corn, is in -common practice. - -A variety of the cowpea, known as La Carita, is very popular in Cuba, -owing to its large yield, and to the fact that after a shower of rain it -can be planted with profit any month of the year, with the exception -perhaps of July and August. The carita belongs to the running or ground -covering variety, and if grown with corn will use the stalks on which to -climb, without detriment to the major crop. The pods are long and filled -with peas about the size of the small Navy beans of New England. The -color is a cream white, with a little dark stain around the germ, which -gave it the name of Carita or little face. The pea for table use is -excellent, of splendid flavor, and becomes soft and palatable with an -hour’s cooking. The vines make good hay, and the average yield of beans -is about 1200 pounds to the acre, which at prices varying from five to -ten cents per pound forms quite a satisfactory crop. - -The kinds of beans grown in Cuba are almost unlimited. Various soils of -the Island seem adapted to the legume family, and many varieties have -been introduced not only from the United States but from Mexico and -Central America. One indigenous bean, the botanical name for which has -not been determined, is found growing wild along the southern coast of -Pinar del Rio. The pods are well filled, and although the bean is very -small it is nevertheless delicious eating. The running vines make a -perfect mat or surface carpet and yield an abundance of hay, nutritious -and greatly liked by stock. The origin and habits of this bean, and the -extent to which it might be improved by cultivation, are being studied -by the Government Experimental Station at the present time. - -Of all forage and food crops grown in Cuba, there is none, perhaps, more -universally successful than the peanut. The little Spanish variety, -owing to its heavy production of oil, is popular and very prolific in -all parts of the Island where the soil is sandy. - -On the red lands, or those that have a clay basis, the Virginia peanuts -thrive wonderfully well. Unlike the little Spanish, the Virginia, or -larger varieties, are usually planted in the spring months, and continue -growing all through the summer. The yield of the Virginia peanut is -large, and the hay resulting from the vines, under favorable conditions, -will approximate two tons or more per acre. This hay is considered one -of the best forage crops, and the field, after the peanuts have been -removed for market, can be very profitably converted into a hog pasture, -so that the small nuts, and those that escape the harvester, are turned -into excellent account, and the field is put into splendid condition for -the next planting. - -The yield of the Spanish peanut varies according to conditions of soil, -and control of water, anywhere from 40 to 100 bushels per acre. Every -bushel of Spanish peanuts will produce one gallon of oil, the price of -which at the present time exceeds $1. From each bushel of nuts with the -shells ground in, about 20 pounds of splendid oil-cake are secured. -This, fed to stock, especially to hogs, in combination with corn or -yucca, is undoubtedly one of the finest foods for fattening and quick -growth that can be found. Peanut-cake readily brings in Havana from $30 -to $40 per ton. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - -ANIMALS - - -Cuba, like the other West Indian Islands, is strangely poor in its -indigenous mammals. The largest wild animal is the deer, a beautiful -creature, resembling much the graceful Cervidae of the Virginia -mountains. It is in fact a sub-species of the American deer. But these -were imported into Cuba from some unknown place, and at a time of which -there is no record extant. They are very plentiful throughout nearly all -of the thinly settled sections of Cuba, especially in the Province of -Pinar del Rio, where, in places not hunted, they exhibit very little -fear of man and frequently appear near native huts in the hills, drawn -there probably through curiosity, which is one of the weak points of -these most beautiful denizens of the forest. - -The abundance of food and absence of cold throughout the year, as well -as the shelter given by the dense woodland and mountains, has led to -their rapid increase. The game laws also protect them from destruction -with the exception of a brief period during the late fall and winter. - -A peculiar animal known as the Hutia, of which there are three varieties -in Cuba, together with the small anteater, known as the Solenoden, -represent the entire native mammalian fauna of the Island. Hutia is the -name given in Cuba to three species of the Caprimys, which belong to -this country. The largest of the three is distributed over the entire -Island. It weighs about ten pounds and is frequently seen in the tree -tops of the forest, living on leaves and tender bark. The other species -are only about half the size of the former. One of these has a long -rat-like tail with which it hangs to limbs of trees, as does the -American opossum. The third species is confined to the Province of -Oriente. Outside of Cuba only two of the Caprimys or Hutias are found, -one in the Bahamas, and the other in Jamaica and Swan Island, now almost -extinct. The Hutias are arboreal rodents. Those of the mountains rear -their little families among the boulders of the tall sierras, where the -feeble voices of the young can often be heard by one who listens -carefully. Their faint cry is very suggestive of the peep of little -chickens. Hutias are sometimes kept as pets in the country. - -The large rodents, as a new world product, attained their maximum -development a very long while ago, during the middle Tertiary period. -Since that time the group has been steadily diminishing, and the -extensive land areas over which they once thronged have undergone many -changes. The Caprimys are a stranded remnant whose ancestral relations -are difficult to trace. - -The largest bird of the Island is the Cuban sandhill crane (Grus -nesiotes). This rather rare representative of the feathered tribe is -found occasionally on grassy plains surrounding the western end of the -Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio. They are also quite plentiful along -the foothills, and on the grass covered plateaus just south of the -Cubitas Mountains, in Camaguey, where they were at one time quite tame. -These birds are found also in Mexico and in the United States, and when -less than a year old are excellent eating. They stand about four feet in -height and are only a trifle smaller than the whooping crane of the -western plains of the United States. - -The guinea-fowl is one of the most common birds of Cuba and was -introduced by the early Spanish conquerors who brought it from the Cape -Verde Islands, whence it had been carried from Africa. This bird, which -has exceptional ability in taking care of itself, while found on nearly -every native farm, soon became wild in Cuba, and is quite plentiful in -some of the dense forests of the Island, especially in the Province of -Camaguey, where it occasionally furnished food for the insurgents during -the War of Independence. The wild guinea is excellent eating, resembling -in size and quality the prairie chicken once so common on the western -prairies of the United States. - -The domestic turkey is, of course, indigenous to almost all parts of -North and Central America. Of its introduction into Cuba there is -practically no record. The climate of the Island is very congenial to -turkeys, hence far less trouble is found in raising them than in the -United States. - -The Cuban “bob-white” with its cheerful note is common throughout the -Island. He is slightly smaller and darker than the American quail, which -some time in the remote past migrated to Cuba. The game laws of the -Island protect both of these birds quite efficiently, otherwise they -would long ago have been extinguished. - -The ubiquitous turkey buzzard is also common in Cuba and quite as -obnoxious as in the southern states of America. - -The little Cuban sparrow hawk, similar to if not identical with that of -the United States, is also found in the Island, as is also the king -bird, which retains his pugnacious habits, not hesitating to tackle -anything that flies. Many varieties of the owl are also found in Cuba, -including the large handsome white owl. - -The mocking bird of the South, that king of song birds, to which -Linnaeus gave the name of Minus Polyglottus Orpheus, is usually in -evidence with his beautiful song, if not always in sight. The sweet -voiced meadow lark of the United States also is very common in Cuba. - -The wild pigeons, once so plentiful in the United States, are still -found in Cuba. Their roosting places are in the deep forests. The -Province of Camaguey seems to be their favorite rendezvous. Other -pigeons found in Cuba are the West Indian mourning dove, the Zenaida -dove, and the little Cuban ground dove. Another beautiful -representative of the dove family is the native white crowned pigeon -(Columba Leucocephala) gentle, lovable creatures that make delightful -pets for children. Two specimens of these doves are domiciled in the -Zoological Park at Washington. - -Parrots, of course, are indigenous to Cuba. Several varieties are -represented, the largest of which, with its brilliant green plumage and -red head, can be easily tamed, while its linguistic ability rapidly -develops with a little patience. These birds when not mating fly in -great flocks, sometimes alighting near homes in the forest, their -unmelodious chatter rendering conversation impossible. The squabs are -excellent eating and are sometimes used for that purpose. Another Cuban -parrot, the Amazona Leucocephala, makes its nest in holes excavated in -the upper reaches of the royal palm, 50 or 60 feet above the ground. - -A striking bird, peculiar to the coastal regions, is the Cuban oriole; a -black bird with bright yellow shoulders, rump and tail coverts, the -under side of the wings also yellow. As a general alarmist, he is equal -to the cat bird, also found in Cuba. A little sneaking about the thicket -will lure the oriole from his hiding place and cause him to scold and -revile the intruder. The Cuban green woodpecker and the white-eyed vireo -are also garrulous birds often met in company with the oriole. - -One of the most beautiful birds of Cuba is the little tody, which, with -the exception of humming birds that are also very plentiful, is the -smallest of the feathered inhabitants of the Island. Its length from tip -of bill to tip of tail is only a little over three inches. The entire -back of the bird is a brilliant grass green. On its throat is a large -patch of bright scarlet, bordered by a zone of white at the angle of the -bill, replaced toward the posterior end of the patch by a bright blue. -The under parts are white and smoky, while the flanks are washed with a -pale scarlet. This little jewel of a bird may be found anywhere in -Western Cuba, usually in low shrubbery, bordering some path, from which -he invites your attention by a song that recalls faintly the note of the -kingfisher. - -Scattered throughout the island and especially plentiful in the Sierras, -is the Cuban lizard-cuckoo, known to the natives as the arriero. He is -about twenty inches in length, the long broad tail representing about -three-fifths while the bill will add almost two inches. The arriero is -one of the most interesting members of Cuban avifauna. His color is a -pale greyish brown with a metallic flush. The throat and the anterior -part of the under-surfaces are grey, washed with pale brown, while the -posterior portion is a pale reddish brown. The large, broad tail -feathers are tipped with white and crossed by a broad band of black. - -He is a veritable clown, of curious and inquiring turn of mind, and -extremely amusing in his antics. Having responded to your call, he will -inspect you carefully, moving his tail sidewise, or cocking it up like a -wren. He may slink away like a shadow, or he may spread his wings and -tumble over himself, chattering as if he had discovered the most amusing -thing in the world, and was bubbling over with mirth. - -One of the most strikingly colored birds in Cuba is the trogon. The top -of his head is metallic purple, the entire back metallic green, while -the under parts are pale grey, a little lighter at the throat. The -posterior and under tail coverts are scarlet, while the primaries of the -wing, and part of the secondaries, are marked with white bars. The outer -tail feathers also are tipped with broad bands of white, the combination -giving to the bird a strikingly brilliant appearance. The Trogon is -inclined to conceal his beauty in thickets, and rarely displays himself -in the open. His call suggests that of the northern cuckoos. - -Water birds are very plentiful, especially in the shallow lagoons that -for hundreds of miles separate the mainland from the outlying islands. -The largest and most striking of these is probably the flamingo, great -flocks of which may be seen in the early morning, spreading out like a -line of red-coated soldiers along the sand spits, or restingas, that -frequently reach out from shore a mile or more, into the shallow salt -waters. The flamingos are very shy, seldom permitting man to approach -within 200 yards. - -Another beautiful water bird is the Sevilla that reaches, with maturity, -about the size of the Muscovy cock. Until nearly a year old this -beautiful inhabitant of the lagoons is snow white, after which his color -changes to a bright carmine red. In the unfrequented lagoons he is still -very plentiful. In the same waters are found many varieties of the heron -family, including the much sought for little white heron, with its -beautiful plumage, from which the aigrettes so popular among women as -ornaments are obtained. - -One of the most peculiar and conspicuous birds in Cuba is the ani, found -everywhere throughout the Island where there are cattle, even -approaching the outskirts of large cities. The ani is about the size of -a small crow, jet black in color with a metallic sheen, and carries a -peculiar crest on the upper mandible. It lives almost entirely on ticks -or other parasitic insects that trouble cattle. It will sit perched on -the back of an ox, hunting industriously for ticks, which process or -favor is apparently enjoyed by the patient beasts. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - -STOCK RAISING - - -Some of the men who followed Christopher Columbus across the Atlantic at -the close of the 15th century were accustomed to stock raising in Spain, -and all of them realized the value of the horse to the mounted warrior, -armed with long lance or sharp cutlass, with which he could ride down -the poor naked Indians of Cuba. They had come from Seville and the -southern provinces, and had perhaps acquired their appreciation of the -horse from the Arab, who made this noble animal his companion, and to -all intents and purposes a member of his family. - -The conquerors brought with them their animals and thus the equine race -was introduced for the first time into the Western Hemisphere. All that -came from Spain in the early days were of Arabian stock, which, although -permitted to deteriorate, has still retained many of the characteristics -of the parent stock, among which are endurance and gentleness. A colt -that has always run wild over the ranges of Cuba, can be easily broken -to the saddle in a few hours. - -Owing to the abundance of food throughout the year, and to the absence -of sleet, snow or cold rains, that sometimes chill and retard the growth -of young colts, this Island is probably quite as well adapted to the -breeding and raising of horses as any place in the world. During the -first Government of Intervention, a large number of American horses were -brought to Cuba by the Army of Occupation, and in spite of this abrupt -change of climate and conditions, cavalry officers stated that never -before had they found a place where their mounts seemed to thrive so -well, and to remain so free from disease. Out of two thousand horses -stationed at Camp Columbia, in the year 1901, only three were found in -the hospital, two of these suffering from accidents, and the third, from -a mild case of imported glanders. - -The native horses, although smaller than the American, are hardy, gentle -and easily kept, and unless taught to eat corn, invariably prefer the -rich grasses to which they have always been accustomed. This native -stock, when crossed with good Kentucky, Missouri or Montana stallions, -produces really excellent service animals, especially for the saddle. - -Since the accession of General Menocal to the Presidency, and especially -since his appointment of General Sanchez Agramonte as Secretary of -Agriculture, rapid strides have been made in the introduction of fine -thoroughbred stallions, most of them gaited saddle animals that have -been imported from Kentucky, and brought to Cuba for breeding purposes. -These animals have been distributed by the Department of Agriculture -throughout the different provinces, and improvement in resulting colts -is already beginning to be apparent. - -Probably one half of the native horses of Cuba in 1895 were killed or -rendered useless during the War of Independence, which began in that -year. This, of course, was a great loss to the Island, but so rapid is -the rate of increase in this balmy climate that horses have again become -quite plentiful and consequently cheap. - -Registered in the Department of Agriculture, in the year 1918, for the -Province of Oriente, were 218,876 horses; in Santa Clara were 212,985; -in Camaguey 129,023; in Matanzas, 108,900; in Havana, 94,214, and in -Pinar del Rio, 63,021; making a total of 827,019 registered in the -Island. - -The small, pony-built, light stepping, sure-footed horses, of the -original or native stock of the Island, especially in the interior, are -quite cheap; mares selling in some places at from $10 to $20, while -geldings of the same grade will bring from $20 to $40, and stallions -from $25 to $50. - -Nevertheless, a well gaited and spirited native saddle horse, in the -City of Havana, will find a ready market at anywhere from $75 to $200. -Imported saddle animals, well gaited, and from good stables, bring in -Cuba prices varying from $300 to $2,000; the price varying with the -merit of the animal and the fancy of the purchaser. With splendid -grasses, balmy climate, and excellent water, there is no reason why the -breeding of horses in Cuba, especially those types suited for fancy -saddle animals, military remounts and polo ponies, should not be -profitable and successful in every sense of the word. - -Good mules are always in demand in Cuba, although not many are bred in -the Island, and most of them up to the present have been imported from -Missouri, Texas and other sections of the United States. Under normal -conditions a pair of good mules in Havana will bring from $250 to $500. -Scattered throughout the country in 1918 were approximately 61,000 -mules, and about 3,250 asses. - -When the first Spanish settlers, most of whom were lured to Cuba through -the hope of finding gold in quantities never realized, saw the great, -broad and rich grass covered savannas of Camaguey, dreams of riches from -cattle raising with far more promise than the fortunes expected from -easily found gold tempered their disappointment, and laid the foundation -for future prosperity. - -A few cattle were brought over from Spain in the first expeditions and -left at Santo Domingo, where they at once began to multiply and thrive. -From this fountain head, Diego Velasquez brought several boatloads to -Cuba, that were distributed among his friends in the seven cities of -which he was the founder. - -The original cattle were of a type peculiar to Spain in the 16th -century; rather small, well shaped and handsome animals, of a light -brown or dark jersey color, similar to that of the wild deer in shade, -and usually carrying a dark streak along the spine, with a rather heavy -cross of black at the shoulders. Although almost no care was given to -these animals, and no attempt made at selection or improvement of the -breed, they continued to multiply and thrive on the rich native grasses -of the savannas throughout the Island. - -In 1895, there were approximately 3,000,000 head registered in Cuba by -the Spanish colonial authorities. Beef was then plentiful and cheap, and -Cuba was supplying the British colonies of the Bahama Islands with -nearly all the meat consumed. Most of it was shipped from the harbor of -Nuevitas across the banks to Nassau. - -With the beginning of the War of Independence, as in all wars, food was -a matter of prime necessity; hence the great herds of cattle roaming the -fields of the eastern provinces became at once legitimate prey, and -since there was no commissary department, and but little effort made on -either side to protect beef from unnecessary slaughter, thousands of -head of cattle were killed, not alone for food, but by each army, the -insurgent and the Spanish, in order to prevent the other side from -getting the benefit of the food. With this reckless method of -destruction, at the expiration of the struggle in 1898, 85%, perhaps -90%, of the cattle of the Island had been wiped out of existence. - -The shortage of beef, of course, was serious, and at the beginning of -the first Government of Intervention steps were taken by General Brooke -and later by General Wood to encourage the immediate importation of -cattle from any locality where they might happen to be available. Hence -cattle were imported indiscriminately from Texas, Louisiana, Florida and -Venezuela, with the natural result that the breeding animals of -succeeding years were composed of a very mixed and ill selected lot. - -With the installation of the Republic, measures were taken to remedy -this misfortune, and to improve the breed. Many private individuals who -had always been interested in the cattle industry imported thoroughbred -bulls from the United States. Quite a number of American stock raisers, -mostly from Texas and other southern states, attracted by the stories of -fine cheap grazing lands, with fresh grass throughout the year, came to -Cuba and settled in Camaguey. Many of these brought with them a stock of -better animals. - -When General Menocal assumed the Presidency in 1913 the further -importation of good cattle was encouraged, and an Agricultural -Exposition or Stock Fair was held at the Quinto de Molinos, or Botanical -Gardens in Havana, where stock breeders from all over the world vied -with each other in the exhibition of fine, thoroughbred animals of many -kinds. An excellent exhibition of Jerseys, imported in 1901 by Joaquin -Quilez, then Governor of the Province of Pinar del Rio, represented a -fine grade of milch cows. - -Cattle came not only from the United States, but crossed the Atlantic -from Holland and from France, while a very attractive breed of handsome, -dark red cattle, were placed on exhibition by the late Sir William Van -Horne, which he had previously imported from the Western coast of -Africa. Most interesting, perhaps, of all, were several specimens of the -Zebu, a large variety of the sacred cattle of India, that had previously -been introduced from abroad, and kept at the Experimental Station at -Santiago de las Vegas. - -The Zebu, although of somewhat self-willed disposition, and with an -inclination to jump any fence under seven feet, is nevertheless proving -a very important addition to the breeding stock of Cuba. This largest -specimen of the bovine species, standing at the shoulders some six feet -in height, when crossed with the ordinary cow of Cuba, produces a much -larger and stronger animal, with this very important advantage, that at -two years of age, a weight equivalent to or in excess of the ordinary -three years old, is attained, while the quality of the meat is in no way -impaired. - -The Zebu is not only valuable for beef breeding purposes but is probably -unequaled in the capacity of a draft ox. A pair of Zebus, when yoked to -a cart or wagon, will drop into a trot with an ordinary load at daylight -in the morning, and without serious effort make fifty miles by sunset. -The strength of these animals is almost incredible, and the cross with -the common cow will undoubtedly furnish a valuable adjunct to successful -stock growing in the Republic. - -In all stock raising enterprises, plenty of fresh water is absolutely -essential. Rivers or running streams are most desirable acquisitions to -any ranch. Where these cannot be found, wells are usually sunk and water -met at depths varying from twenty to two hundred feet. In the foothills -and mountainous districts, never failing streams are found in abundance. - -There still remain hundreds of thousands of acres of well watered and -well drained lands, that possess all the conditions desired for stock -raising. Much of the territory formerly devoted to grazing has been -recently planted in sugar cane, owing to the high prices of sugar, -resulting from the European War. In spite of this fact there are still -large tracts in nearly every province of the Island that not only are -available for stock raising, but would, if sown in grasses and forage -plants, produce, under proper management, returns per acre quite as -satisfactory as those derived from sugar cane. - -In both Havana and Matanzas Provinces good lands command a price that is -rather prohibitive for grazing purposes. But in Pinar del Rio, and the -three large eastern provinces of the Island, there are still extensive -tracts, both in the level sections, and in the foothills, that are ideal -grazing lands, and if not absorbed in the near future by the cane -planters, these lands will eventually, owing to their advantages for -stock raising, yield revenues quite as satisfactory as those of any -other in the Republic. - -These lands can be secured at the present time, in large tracts, at -prices varying from $15 to $50 per acre, and if properly administered, -will easily yield an annual net return from 25% to 50% on the -investment. One prominent stock raiser in the Province of Camaguey, an -American who, starting with nothing, has built up a very tidy fortune in -the last ten years, stated that his return in the year 1918 represented -a profit of 104% on his capital invested. This excellent showing, -however, may have resulted from the practice of buying calves at low -figures that have been dropped in less advantageous sections, and -removing them to rich potreros where they were quickly fattened for the -Havana market. - -Cuba at the present time is importing approximately $10,000,000 worth of -pork and pork products annually, notwithstanding the fact that this -Island, owing to exceptional conditions for raising hogs economically, -could not only supply the local demand, but could and will ultimately, -export pork products to all of the Latin American countries bordering on -the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico. - -Hogs breed twice a year in Cuba, and the climate, free from extremes of -heat or cold, enables probably a larger percentage of the young to be -brought to maturity, with less care and less risk, than in any section -of the United States. Science today has rendered it possible to -eliminate the danger from contagious disease to pork; hence it is that -raising of small stock, especially hogs, under the supervision of -intelligent management, is bound to prove one of the most remunerative -industries of this country. - -Hogs were introduced into Cuba from Spain by the early Spanish settlers, -but no effort was made either to improve the breed by selection or even -to prevent its retrograding through lack of care and good food. Nearly -all hogs raised in Cuba, even at the present time, are permitted to run -in droves in the forests and foothills of the thinly settled sections, -as did their ancestors four centuries ago. - -Even the owners of these droves have but little idea of the number of -hogs belonging to them. Monteros, or forest men, are hired to herd them, -which is done with the assistance of dogs. The hogs in this way are -followed from place to place where the forests may furnish natural food -for the mothers and their progeny. As a rule, at evening each day, the -montero or herder, in order to keep up a partial contact between him and -his drove, carries a few ears of corn slung over his shoulder in a sack, -or to the saddle of his horse. This he shells and drops as he rides -along the narrow trails of the forest, uttering at the same time a -peculiar cry or call, heard in the mountain jungles of the hog -districts, when the monteros are coaxing their herds out into the open, -so that they may catch a glimpse of them before they dodge back into the -leafy glades of the interior. - -This semi-savage breed of hogs of course would cause a smile if seen on -a first-class stock farm in the United States. He is usually black in -color, long and lank, resembling very much the “razor back,” once common -in the southern part of the United States. He is prolific, a good -fighter, and hustles for his own living, since nothing is provided for -him excepting what he picks up in the forest. This, however, is pretty -good feed. - -The royal palm that covers many of the hillsides and slopes of the long -mountain chains throughout Cuba, produces a small nut called palmiche, -which furnishes a never-failing food and aids the stock man greatly in -raising hogs. The palmiche, picked up by the animals at the base of the -palms or cut by the monteros, who with the assistance of a rope easily -climb these tall smooth barked ornaments of the forest, will keep -animals in fairly good condition throughout the year. - -The palmiche, however, although only about the size of the kernel of a -hazel nut, is very hard, and much of it is rather indigestible. This -nut, when ground and pressed yields about 20% of excellent oil, either -for lubricating or commercial purposes, while the residue of the nut, or -pressed cake of the palmiche, from which the worthless part has been -separated previous to grinding, owing to its rich content of protein and -oil, furnishes an easily digested and splendid food. - -The recent demand for oil has resulted in the introduction of a number -of presses in Cuba since the beginning of the European War, and the -palmiche cake is being placed on the market as a stock food product. In -this form it is quite probable that a valuable adjunct will soon be -added to the other natural foods of the country. - -Palmiche fed pork in Cuba, or for that matter wherever it has been -eaten, is considered a greater delicacy than any other pork in the -world, and in this Island is preferred to either turkey or chicken. This -is owing to the peculiar nutty flavor which the palmiche imparts to the -meat of the forest-bred hog. Young palmiche fed pork, known as lechon, -roasted over a hardwood or charcoal fire, during the holidays of -Christmas and New Year’s in Havana, readily retails at 75¢ to $1 per -pound, and little roasting pigs at that time of the year will bring from -five to ten dollars each. - -The pork industry, however, in Cuba, to be really successful should be -conducted along lines similar to those of the United States. Excellent -food can be provided for hogs, fresh and sweet at all times of the year, -simply by planting the various crops with reference to the season and -period needed for feeding. Among those foods best adapted to sows and -growing pigs in Cuba are peanuts, cow peas, sweet potatoes, sugar cane, -calabasa or pumpkins, chufas, malanga, and other root crops peculiar to -the country. For topping off, or putting into condition, shoats for six -weeks before being sent to market should be fed on either corn or yucca, -or both. - -The latter, yucca, is one of the best root crops grown in the Island -for fattening hogs. The tuber, some three or four feet in length, with a -diameter of three or four inches, comes from a closely jointed plant -that at maturity varies in height from three to five feet. The stalk of -these plants, if cut into short joints, and planted in furrows about -three feet apart, produces its crop of tubers in about twelve months, -although the yield will increase for five or six months after this. The -yucca tubers are covered with a cocoanut brown peel, while the inside, -consisting of almost pure starch, is white as milk. - -Yucca will produce a splendid, firm fat on pork in a very short time, -and has the advantage over corn in the fact that the weight of the crop, -from an acre of land, varies from four to twelve tons, according to the -quality of the soil, and hogs delight in harvesting the crop themselves. - -At the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas may be seen many -excellent breeds of hogs that were introduced from the United States -some years ago. Among these are found the Duroc or Jersey Red, the -Hampshire, the Chester White, the Berkshire and Tamworth, all of which -under the favorable conditions found at the Station have done remarkably -well. Interesting experiments on the various foods of the Island, and -their adaptability as food for hogs, are being carried on there -throughout the year. Those breeds which seem to give the greatest -promise, up to the present, are the Duroc and the Hampshire. Some very -interesting animals have been produced from crosses between Hampshires, -Durocs and Tamworths, the shoulder mark or saddle band of the Hampshire -being prominent in all of its crosses. - -The population of Cuba is rapidly approaching three millions, and no -people in the world are more addicted to the use of pork in all its -forms than those not only in Cuba but in all the Latin American -Republics lying to the west and south of the Caribbean. The hog industry -at the present time does not begin to supply the local demand, and -probably will not for some years to come. Fresh pork before the European -war seldom varied throughout the year from the standard price of ten -cents per pound on the hoof, while hams imported from the United States -brought twenty-five cents at wholesale in Havana. - -With the use of dams and turbines, power can be easily secured from the -many mountain streams with which to furnish refrigeration and cold -storage, and there is no reason why a pork-packing industry, combining -the curing of hams, shoulders, etc., should not be carried on -successfully. Branches of large packing houses in the United States have -long imported their hams and shoulders, in brine, afterwards smoking -them in Cuba. Experts in pork packing soon discovered that most of the -small hard woods of the Cuban forests were splendidly adapted for -smoking meat, giving it a piquant and aromatic flavor, pleasing to the -taste. - -With the large local demand for hams, shoulders, bacon, etc., a -profitable business is assured from the beginning, while the proximity -of so many Latin Republics south and west of the Caribbean render the -prospect of the export trade very promising. - -Owing to the genial climate, sheep in Cuba, lacking the necessity for -wool with which to retain warmth, very naturally lose it within a -comparatively few years. Mutton, however, always commands a good price -in the local markets, hence it is that the raising of sheep for food, -especially by those small farmers who are close to large markets, will -always yield a satisfactory return. - -The large hotels of Havana, especially during the tourist season, are -compelled to supply mutton of good quality to their guests, and since -the local supply is not sufficient, a considerable amount of this -excellent food is imported, dressed, from the United States. In this -latitude, where green grass may be found in abundance throughout the -year, sheep may be profitably raised and used in many ways. They are -close grazers and will keep down the heavy growth of grass in citrus -fruit groves, and also along the roadsides and in the surface drains -that border hundreds of miles of automobile drives scattered throughout -the Island. - -Thousands of dollars are expended by the Department of Public Works -every year in cutting out this rank growth of grass, so that the flow of -water in the ditches may not be impeded. This work could undoubtedly be -done by sheep, and a great deal of manual labor be saved, if the system -of roadside grazing was once introduced into this country. Sheep are -found in small numbers throughout all parts of the Island, and up to the -present the Government has made no attempt to register them. - -So far no discrimination has been used in introducing those breeds of -sheep best suited for the production of mutton. That which the Island -has is usually tender, and of excellent flavor, and if small farmers -would take the trouble to import good rams from desirable breeds in the -United States, the raising of mutton, even as a side issue, would add -greatly to the revenue of farms located near large consuming centers. - -The Republic of Mexico for many years has derived a very large revenue -from the sale of goat skins, most of which were purchased by the New -England shoe factories, while the by-products in the form of salted and -sun dried meat, fat and other materials, always command a market. Recent -years of devastation, however, have practically annihilated all of the -great herds once so profitable, since for three or four years they -furnished food to the roving bands of different contestants in that -unfortunate country. - -In the various mountain chains, foothills and fertile ravines of Cuba -are hundreds of thousands of acres of forest land, in much of which -sufficient sunlight enters to permit of new growth, the tender shoots of -which are preferred by both goats and deer to any other food in the -world. More than all, the goat is by nature a hill climber, and is never -content until he gains the nearest ascent from which he can look down on -his companions below. - -For many years to come, most of these vast ranges will be unfenced and -free, and the keeping of the goats will require nothing more than a -herder with a couple of good dogs for every thousand head. With this -excellent food that can serve no other purpose, and the splendid water -of mountain streams, the goat industry in Cuba could not fail to be -profitable, and yet the raising of goats has never been considered there -commercially. - -Under the management of men who are familiar with the raising of goats -for their hides, and by-products, there is no reason why this industry -should not assume importance in Cuba, especially since these animals are -invaluable for cleaning out undergrowth economically and effectively. - -Although it is a well established fact that the Angora goat will thrive -in any country that is not low and damp, with the exception a few pairs -of Angoras, that were introduced at the Experimental Station at Santiago -de las Vegas some years ago, the breeding of this variety of goat has -never attracted the attention which it deserves. Those of the station, -although not located under the ideal conditions which prevail in the -mountains, have nevertheless fulfilled the reputation which this animal -enjoys in other parts of the world. - -The Angora, unlike the sheep, does not lose or drop its beautiful silky -fleece when introduced into a warm climate. It is, however, desirable to -shear the mohair twice a year instead of once, in order to avoid loss -that might come from pushing its way through heavy underbrush in the -mountains. In raising or breeding this variety of goat, where the long -fine fleece is the chief source of income, provision should be made for -rounding up and coralling the herd each night, in order to insure -against the possibility of loss from dogs or theft, although the goat -himself is an excellent fighter, and stoutly resents the intrusion of -any enemy. - -Under favorable circumstances the annual increase of kids will amount to -100% of the number of ewes in the flock. The young bucks, of course, -when a year old may be sold at a profit, as is the ordinary goat, but -since the finest yield of hair comes from the younger animals, it would -seem ill advised to dispose of them until at least five or six years -old. - -The average price of a good angora ewe for breeding purposes is about -$15, and the value of the mohair has been increasing steadily for the -past ten years. Its price, of course, depends on the length and fineness -of the fleece, and varies at the present time from 75¢ to $1 per pound. -When it is considered that a good angora will produce five or six pounds -of fleece each year, and that the entire expense is practically that of -herding and clipping, the profit of the business is apparent. On the -basis of a six-pound yield to each goat, and an average price of -83-1/3¢, a revenue of $12,000 would be derived from a herd of 2,400 -goats that would cost $36,000; or in other words the net returns would -exceed 25% on the capital invested. - -Aside from a sufficient amount of land on which to establish night -corrals, and the purchase of a few good collie dogs, there need be no -other initial expense than that of the purchase of breeding animals -themselves. Good herders can be readily secured at a salary of $50 per -month and the feeding range is not only free but practically unlimited. - -When it is considered that the angora, when living on high lands, with -plentiful food and water, is free from disease, and that the capital -stock is multiplying at the rate of 50% per year, with an overhead -expense that may be considered as almost nothing, and an absolutely -assured market at good prices for the mohair, the raising and breeding -of angora goats would seem to be a very profitable investment in Cuba. - -The deer of Cuba, while resembling in color, general form and -configuration of antlers the deer of Florida, is somewhat smaller in -size, the average height of the buck at the shoulders being only about -three feet. Although hunted considerably during the open season, they -are still very plentiful in Cuba, and if not chased by dogs soon become -quite tame. - -If deer parks or reserves were established in the mountains where these -animals could be confined, cared for and bred, a market for venison -could undoubtedly be found in the United States, while many city parks -and zoological gardens would find them interesting and ornamental as an -exhibit of the Cervidae family from Cuba. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII - -POULTRY: BEES: SPONGES - - -Notwithstanding the fact that several millions a year are expended by -the people of the Republic in bringing poultry and eggs to Cuba, no -steps were taken towards what might be termed systematic poultry raising -until American colonists began experimenting with different breeds -brought from the United States during the first Government of -Intervention. And even since that time there are very few who have -carried on really scientific experiments towards determining what -varieties of chickens may give the best results in this country. - -In regard to breeds it would seem that the Rhode Island Red has the -preference in Cuba, although many others, including the Wyandotte, -Plymouth Rock and Orpington, as well as the Black Minorcan and other -Mediterranean breeds, have their advocates here as in the United States. - -The native hen of the Island sprang probably from some Mediterranean -breed, that through lack of care has sadly degenerated. She is rather -prolific as a layer, however, and asks no assistance in finding her own -food, nor will a quarter of a mile flight give her the slightest -difficulty. - -The one breed that has been given a very high degree of attention in -Cuba is the fighting cock, whose value may run anywhere from $5 to $100 -or more. On these is bestowed more care than is received by any prize -chicken in the north. They are serviceable, of course, only for purposes -of sport, fighting chickens being a favorite pastime of the country -people in all Latin American countries. The native hen of Cuba, when -crossed with well bred Rhode Island Red or Plymouth Rock roosters, -produces a very good all around chicken, which will thrive even under -adverse conditions. - -In the fall of 1915, President Menocal imported from the United States -several thousand excellent hens for experimental and breeding purposes. -These are installed in modern poultry houses on his farm, “El Chico,” -only a few miles from the City of Havana, and have done very well. - -Turkeys, too, do remarkably well in Cuba when given free range, and they -are not subject to those ills which result from sleet, snow and chilling -winds that decimate the little ones in most parts of the United States. - -Cuba seems to be the natural home of the Guinea hen since those foods -which this fowl likes best are found in all parts of the Island, and in -many sections Guineas have escaped from domestication, taken to the -forest and formed great flocks of both white and grey varieties. These -furnish splendid wing shooting to those who enjoy the sport. - -In view of the rapidly increasing demand for Guinea pullets in all of -the big hotels in the United States, where they seem to be taking the -place of the prairie chicken of the past, it would seem that the raising -of Guinea hens for the American market should certainly prove extremely -profitable. Fields of the short or white millet planted on any farm will -serve to keep them satisfied, and at the same time diminish the tendency -to wander away from home. In a country where neither shelter or food is -needed, and where the birds command very remunerative prices, Guinea -raising ought to be tempting. - -Very few have gone into poultry raising along scientific or intelligent -lines, which seems rather odd when we consider that fresh eggs vary in -price from four to five cents, under normal conditions, all the year -round, and chickens of the most scrawny type bring from sixty cents to -one dollar. - -The poultry business offers many advantages in Cuba; first of which may -be mentioned, an excellent local market for both chickens and eggs; -second, that green food and insects may be found in abundance throughout -the year; that open or wire screen houses alone are necessary for -protection, the necessity for artificial heat being, of course, non -existent. - -In a country free from frost and where flowers bloom more or less -continuously throughout the year, we might expect to find and do find a -Bee paradise. Often, in seeking shelter either from a tropical sun or a -threatening shower, in the shade of one of the Magotes of Pinar del Rio, -or while passing through the deep, rock-walled pass of the Paredones, in -the Sierra de Cubitas, one will find pools of a strange looking -substance in the dust at his feet. Investigation discloses the fact that -it is honey, fallen from overhanging rocks where wild bees have made -their homes in the cavities above, the warmth of the sun having melted -an overfilled comb so that the honey collected at the foot of the cliff -below. - -Native wild bees are very plentiful in Cuba, and strange to say possess -no sting, but produce a honey that is very sweet. During the latter part -of the 16th century a German variety of bee was introduced, from the -Spanish colony of Saint Augustine, Florida. About the middle of the 19th -century the Italian bee was introduced, and is probably more productive -of honey than any other in Cuba. With the coming of American colonists -in 1900, modern hives were introduced and the business of gathering and -exporting both honey and wax was systematized for the first time. - -Many large apiaries exist, especially in the province of Pinar del Rio. -Those who devote their time to the culture of bees naturally seek the -various localities where flowers are plentiful, sometimes moving the -hives from one section to another in order to take advantage of the -presence of honey-bearing flowers in various localities. The bloom of -the royal palm, so plentifully scattered over the Island, especially in -those mountainous districts where the soil is deep and rich, furnishes -an excellent food for bees, as do the morning glory, the flowering -majagua and hundreds of other plants whose local Spanish names cannot be -interpreted. - -In the location of bee colonies the character and quantity of the food -is a matter of prime importance. The honey yielding flowers, on which -the bees depend for their sustenance, vary greatly with the locality, -especially with its proximity to the coast or to the mountains. The -sources of wax, too, vary greatly with the location. As an illustration, -foundation comb in Cuba should never be supplied to bees located near -the coast, since experience has proved that they will build up comb much -faster near the coast without the assistance of artificial foundation. - -The quality of honey, too, depends much upon the nature of the flowers -found in any given locality. In the interior nearly all honey is of -excellent quality, while on the coast, quite a large percentage will -lack more or less in flavor, and is almost subject to danger from -fermentation. It has been noted too that colonies in the interior, when -young queens are available, will swarm, even when not crowded for room; -whereas on the coast bees do not swarm so readily, probably because they -have such an abundance of wax with which to build comb. - -During the month of January bees secure an abundance of food throughout -the interior from the Aguinaldo Blanco, or white morning-glory. On the -coast a large amount of honey is derived from the bloom of a small tree, -not botanically classified, during a short period of seldom more than a -week. In February, throughout the interior, bees derive large quantities -of honey from flowers of the Rapitingua and from the Mango, while on the -coast, during this month, food is not abundant. - -In March, throughout the interior, the flowers of many fruit trees, -found wild in the forest, give an abundance of honey, while on the coast -the Roble Blanco, or so called white oak, furnishes food. In April, in -the interior, food is derived from many plants then in bloom, while on -the coast the flowers of the Salsa, Pelotajo, Bacuaya and the Guana -Palm furnish an abundance of food. The months of May and June, in the -interior, contribute comparatively few honey yielding flowers, while on -the coast the mangroves, the Guana Palm, and one or two other plants -yield food in great quantities. - -In July and August the scarcity of honey bearing flowers continues in -the interior while on the coast the Guamo yields food. In September and -October, throughout the interior, honey is derived from the Toruga and a -few other flowers. On the coast, during these months, the same flowers -yield honey but in less quantity. In the months of November and -December, throughout the interior, a heavy flow of honey is derived from -a plant known as the Bellflower, while on the coast at this season, food -is scarce. - -Where groves of citrus fruit abound excellent honey is derived from the -flowers of the orange and grape fruit throughout much of the winter. - -As a result of experience in apiculture during the past fifteen years, -$2 per hive is the average annual income derived when located under -favorable circumstances. One bee keeper who cares for a colony of 1200 -hives has found that by adding 25 to 30 pounds of sugar towards the -support of each hive, during the months when food is scarce, this -average of $2 per hive in annual profit is increased to $5 and even -more. - -The exportation of wax for the fiscal year 1916-17 amounted to -approximately 1,300,000 pounds, valued at $340,000. Of this amount about -a million pounds was exported to the United States, while 300,000 pounds -went to Great Britain. In the same year over 12,000,000 pounds of honey -were shipped abroad, valued at $650,000. Nearly 10,000,000 pounds of -this went to the United States, Great Britain taking the larger part of -the remainder. - -Most of the honey exported from Cuba is strained and sells in bulk for -about five cents per pound. To those fond of bees, apiculture in Cuba -will always form for the settler a source of added pleasure and profit, -especially in those sections where coffee, cacao and citrus fruit form -the chief source of income. - -Next to the Bahama Islands, surrounded as they are by hundreds of square -miles of shoal water, the shores of Cuba probably produce more good -sponges than any other part of the western hemisphere. In the quiet -waters protected by out-lying barrier reefs that in places stretch for -hundreds of miles along the shores of Cuba, many varieties of sponges -are found. The longest of the sponge zones is found in the shallow -waters protected by the Islands and reefs that stretch along the north -coast of Cuba from Punta Hicaco opposite Cardenas, to the harbor of -Nuevitas, some 300 miles east. Both sponges and green turtles are found -here but never have been extensively hunted except by the Bahama -Islanders, who before the inauguration of the Cuban revenue service used -to sneak across the old Bahama Channel in the darkness of the night and -back of the uninhabited keys reap rich rewards in the sponge fields of -the northern coast. - -Batabano on the south coast, opposite the city of Havana, is the great -center of the sponge fisheries that cover the shallow flats between the -mainland and the Isle of Pines and extend from the Bay of Cochinos in -the east to the extreme western terminus of the Island at Cape San -Antonio. - -The domestic consumption of sponges in Cuba is very large and in the -year 1916-17 only 261,800 pounds were exported which had a value of -$230,000. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII - -PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST - - -To the lover of romance or student of history, few spots in the western -hemisphere, perhaps, have greater charm and interest than Morro Castle, -high perched on the promontory that guards the eastern entrance of -Havana Harbor. Seen at early dawn from the open port of an entering -steamer, its great, rugged, picturesque bulk seems to assemble from the -spectral mists of a legendary past, while all those intensely dramatic -scenes of which El Morro has been the center, pass before one like the -dreamy reality of a moving picture play. - -Resurrected from the tales of centuries, gone and almost forgotten, one -sees the lonely old watch tower that back in the early days of the 16th -century stood guard on the hill top of Morro, so that the pirates and -cruel rovers of the sea during those days of greed, lust and crime, -could not take the little community of Havana unawares. Then come the -later days, when the ever recurring wars of Europe cast their ugly -shadows over even remote points on the western shore of the Atlantic, -and corsairs of foreign nations were ever anxious to pounce on the Pearl -of the Antilles, and seize within the harbor some of the rich Spanish -galleons, laden with Aztec gold and loot. - -Through this panorama of the past comes the picture of England’s fleet -of 200 ships manned by 32,000 men under Albemarle and Pococke, lying in -a semicircle off the entrance of the harbor, with old Morro now well -equipped for battle. Its thick walls, rugged embattlements, fighting -turrets, embrasures, emergency bridges, powder magazines, store rooms, -ammunition dumps, secret passages and dark dungeons, and bristling guns, -were Spain’s chief bulwark in the defense of Havana. Solid shot and -shell from a thousand guns crisscrossed between sea and land, and in the -center of the turmoil, defending the fort and the honor of Spain, stood -one courageous young officer, Commander Luis Velasco, surrounded by a -little group of volunteers, who had sworn to hold the fort or die in its -defense. - -[Illustration: PABLO DESVERNINE. - -Born in Havana in 1854, and educated at the University of Havana and at -Columbia University, New York, Pablo Desvernine y Galdos has long ranked -among the foremost members of the Cuban bar. During General Brooke’s -Military Governorship at the beginning of the first American -intervention he was Secretary of Finance; he was President of the -Agricultural Expositions of 1911 and 1912; was Minister to the United -States in 1913; and in 1914 was made by President Menocal Secretary of -State. Since 1900 he has been Professor of Civil Law in the University -of Havana. He is the author of several works on Civil and International -Law.] - -Then, after a month of continuous fighting, came the note from the -British, stating that El Morro was undermined and an offer of 24 hours -in which to surrender, and Velasco’s reply, in which he informed his -enemy that the match might be applied and the walls blown up, but within -the breach he would be found still defending the castle. - -The mine was exploded and the south wall torn asunder, while Velasco, -fighting to the last, received the wound that sent him over the Great -Divide and soon brought to an end Havana’s defense against the British. -Imagination easily recalls the salute of cannon on the following day, -announcing the death of one of Spain’s most courageous fighters, while -every shot of the defending guns was echoed by one of the British ships, -firing as a tribute to the courage of the young officer who had defied -their entire fleet for nearly a month. - -Morro was begun in 1589 by the Italian engineer, J. Bautista Antonelli, -and completed in 1597. Little change has occurred during the last two -centuries, and its rugged old walls will probably continue to resist the -winter storms of the Gulf for centuries to come. Many of Cuba’s patriots -and heroic figures have been confined in the dungeons of Morro, -including the first President of the Republic, that kind hearted, genial -old gentleman of letters, Don Tomas Estrada Palma, who died the victim -of base ingratitude on the part of men for whose freedom and happiness -he had devoted all of the best years of his life. - -El Morro is still occupied, as in the olden days, by the coast artillery -of Cuba, and is well worth a trip across the bay, where one may pass a -pleasant afternoon in interesting introspection, and enjoy at the same -time one of the most delightful views of land and sea from any point in -the West Indies. - -Just within the entrance, and on the shore at the foot of Morro, are -located 12 huge, old-time muzzle loading cannon, known as the Twelve -Apostles, that sweep the opposite shore and were supposed to render -impossible the entrance of any hostile ship, or any effort to cut away -the heavy iron cable that in earlier days stretched across the entrance -to the harbor from El Morro to the fortress of La Punta on the other -side. These curious old iron guns, dedicated to the saints, were cast by -Don Juan Francisco de Guenes and installed by him in the form of a -crescent, that boded destruction to all invaders from the sea. - -Some 500 yards further east, along the coast, is installed a similar -group of cannon, 12 in number, that forms a battery known as La Pastora. -These guns were made by Francisco Cagigal de la Vega and were placed on -the lower shelf of the outside coast at a point not easily seen from the -sea where they were supposed to render a forced entrance to the bay -practically impossible. - -A little further within the narrow entrance to the harbor of Havana, and -stretching for a half a mile along the eastern shore, lies the largest -and most impressive ancient fort of the western hemisphere. This -fortress is known as la Cabaña, owing to the fact that several cabins -once stood along this ridge, some 200 feet in height, overlooking the -City of Havana. La Cabaña is massive in its structure, built of stone -and earth on the crest of the ridge, with a steep descent to the water’s -edge. It is surrounded on all sides by a wide deep moat, across which no -enemy, even in modern times, could possibly pass. The destruction of the -fort with high explosives and long range guns would, of course, be -easily accomplished, but as an example of 18th century military -engineering and architecture, it has no rival in the western world. Some -50 acres are covered with the walls, patios, surface and underground -dungeons, prisons, buildings, moats and outer defenses of this -fortification. - -The work was begun on November 4, 1763, shortly after the evacuation of -Havana by the British, and was concluded in 1774. The cost of the work -is said to have been $14,000,000, although much of it was probably done -by slaves, for whose services little or nothing was paid, nor could the -value of their labor be easily estimated. The same engineer Antonelli, -of Italian origin, who built El Morro, displayed his military genius in -the plans of La Cabaña. - -The original approach of this fortress was over a cobbled path that -wound up a steep incline, from a little landing opposite the foot of -O’Reilly Street, terminating finally in the southern opening to the -moat. This path was known during the long years of the Ten Years’ War, -and the War of Independence, as “El Camino sin Esperanza” or the Road -without Hope, since those who climbed its winding way as prisoners -seldom descended to the plain below, unless in rude boxes on the way to -their last resting place. Even this privilege was denied to the great -majority of political prisoners who were executed under the laurels that -shade the first part of the moat. - -This wide deep moat, varying in width from sixty to a hundred feet, with -a depth that will average fifty, extends from one end of the fortress to -the other, paralleling the harbor on which it fronts, and separating the -main body of the fortress from well planned and easily defended outer -works. Stone stairways were built at different places against the walls -of these outer ramparts to facilitate the movement of troops in defense -of the citadel, but with wide gaps crossed by wooden bridges that once -knocked away would render the stairways useless to the enemy. - -A few hundred feet beyond the avenue of laurels, and close by an opening -of the wall into the main fortress, a bronze placque, some six feet by -twelve, marks one of the places where political prisoners were executed -throughout the latter half of the 19th century. The bronze was cast in -France and represents the execution of a group of insurgent soldiers. In -the left half of the placque is represented a squad of Spanish soldiers -in the act of firing. Above all floats the figure of an angel -endeavoring to shield the martyrs who are giving up their lives for the -cause of Cuban Liberty. - -Passing through this great eastern wall of the citadel the visitor steps -into an interior, grass covered court, several hundred feet in length by -eighty or more in width. Along the southern end of the court may be seen -the remnant of a painted line at about the height of a man’s breast. On -this spot, it is said, over a thousand men were executed during the -period of the Ten Years’ War and the three years’ War of Independence. -Most of the old line has been dug away by knife points of visitors in -search of bullets that were imbedded in the wall during the many -executions that took place at its base. At the further, or northern end -of this tranquil plot of ground, heavily barred iron gates cover a -series of steps which formed an emergency entrance from the moat into -the main body of the fortress. - -A quarter of a mile further north, along the main extension of the moat, -is a wide wooden bridge that connects the outer ramparts with the -citadel, the roadway passing through a massive and impressive gate or -portal, over which a carved inscription gives the dates in which the -work was begun and concluded, together with the name of its founders and -the Spanish officers in command at the time of its construction. - -The grounds within are ample for military drill and instruction and are -well equipped for the care and maintenance of a defending force. When -Spain’s army retired from Cuba in the last days of 1899, both Cabañas -and Morro presented a very different appearance from that of today. Long -lines of cells had been built into the stone walls, in which hundreds, -if not thousands, of political prisoners had spent years of -confinement. Each of these dreary, cheerless abodes was about 30 feet in -width by 60 in length, with a low arched ceiling and massive barred -doors, facing the west. - -Each cell was supposed to accommodate fifty men, and some of them -contained long parallel wooden bars, between which prisoners might swing -hammocks if they were fortunate enough to possess them. Many men -prominent in Cuban political and military life have occupied these cells -of Cabañas and also those of its companion, El Morro. General Julio -Sanguily, among others, passed three years in cell No. 57, until, -through the urgent intercession of the American Government, he was -finally set at liberty and permitted to enter the United States, of -which he claimed citizenship. - -Stretching along the western face of the fortress is a wide stone -parapet overlooking the bay and the City of Havana opposite. Planted on -its surface is a long line of interesting brass cannon, ornamented with -Spanish coats of arms and bearing inscriptions that tell of their making -in Seville, at various periods throughout the 18th century. These cannon -are used today for saluting purposes when foreign men of war enter the -harbor on friendly visits. - -Near the center of the citadel stood a small stone chapel that would -accommodate 50 or 100 men. Near one end was built a round pagoda-like -altar before which the condemned could kneel in prayer during their last -night on earth, since those who entered its tragic portals well knew -that at sunrise the following morning they would face the firing squad -that would pass them on to eternity. This historically tragic apartment -has recently been converted into a moving picture hall for the benefit -of Cuban soldiers who are at present stationed in Cabañas. - -Visitors at Cabañas during normal times of peace will find soldier -guides quite willing to carry one down into the subterranean depths of -the fortress and along the narrow dark passageways that were tunneled -into the earth, supposedly to detect possible mining operations of the -enemy from the outside. During the War of Independence, however, -extending from 1895 to 1899, these underground tunnels were occupied by -prisoners, most of whom dying in the dismal depths were given burials so -shallow by their companions, who must have dug the graves with their -fingers, that in passing along by lantern light, shortly after American -occupation, one frequently stumbled over skulls and bones that protruded -from the earthen floor below. - -The aspect of Cabañas today, with its well cleaned, whitewashed walls, -with its comfortable officers’ quarters and shady grounds, is quite -cheerful, and one can hardly believe that less than a quarter of a -century ago Cabañas fortress was one of the modern horrors that cried -out to the civilized world for the abolition of Spanish control in -America. - -Occupying the low rocky ledge immediately opposite Morro is the -picturesque little fort known as the Castillo de Punta, or Fortress on -the Point, begun in 1589, and intended to complete the protection to the -entrance of the harbor. The style of architecture is identical with that -of El Morro, but far less pretentious in size and plan. The fort is -protected from the sea by several outlying shelves of coral rock, and -was at one time surrounded by a moat as was La Fuerza, the first stone -fortress constructed in the Western Hemisphere. The walls are not over -20 feet in height and over the main entrance a tablet gives the name of -Governor-General Tejada, during whose period of office it was built, -together with the date of its construction. - -La Punta afforded efficient aid to its companion El Morro, on the -opposite side of the bay, during the siege by the English in 1762, and -in one corner of the reception room may be seen the fragment of an iron -shell, fired from the British fleet during the siege of Havana. - -La Punta is the headquarters of the Navy Department. Its presence at the -angle of the Prado and the Gulf Avenue, that extends west along the sea -shore, is a quiet but efficient reminder of the olden days when -fortresses of this type formed the only protection enjoyed by the people -who were then residents of the capital of Cuba. - -Until the middle of the 19th century, Havana, like nearly all of the -capitals built by Spanish conquerors in the Western Hemisphere, was a -walled city. These walls were built of coral limestone quarried along -the sea front, which with exposure to the atmosphere becomes quite hard. -The same engineering ability demonstrated by the builders of El Morro, -Cabanas and La Punta, was evident in the 17th century wall, that had the -fortress of La Punta as its starting point and ran in practically a -straight line south until it reached the shores of the Bay near its -southwestern terminus. - -These walls were about 12 feet through at the base and some 20 feet in -height. Throughout the entire line was a series of salients, bastions, -flanks and curtains that were dominant features in the military -architecture of those times. At the top were parapets on which the -garrison gathered for the defense of the City. - -Work on the walls began with a body of 9,000 peons in 1633 and a -contribution of $20,000 in gold that was exacted by order of the Spanish -Crown from the rich treasuries of Mexico in order to hurry its -completion. Only two gates were constructed at first, one of these at La -Punta and the other at the head of Muralla Street, which latter formed -the main or principal entrance for commercial purposes. A third was -afterwards opened near the corner of the old Arsenal for the convenience -of people engaged in ship building at that point. - -Extending along the water front were gradually built continuations of -this wall with coral ledges forming a solid base. These eventually -closed the city on all sides. This stupendous work was not completed -until 1740, and even after this date occasional additions were made for -purposes of better defense. Although the Spanish treasury at that time -was being filled with gold from Mexico and Peru, it would seem that the -Crown was very loath to part with the money, and compelled the colonies -of the Western Hemisphere to build their own defenses and to make -whatever improvements they considered necessary, either from -contributions levied on commerce, or with the use of slaves whose -services their owners were compelled to furnish at their own expense. - -Up to the departure of Spain’s army from Havana in 1899, sections of the -old wall, several blocks in length, extending through the heart of the -city, still remained intact. These, with their salients, bastions, -flanks, etc., formed an interesting landmark of the olden days, when -Spanish knights clad in hauberks and hose, donned their breastplates and -plumed helmets to fight against the British who besieged the city in -1763. Today only one short section remains, a picturesque remnant of the -past, with its little round, dome-covered watch tower still intact. This -is located just north of the Presidential palace on the crest of the -green lawn that slopes away towards La Punta, about a third of a mile -distant. - -Near the landing place at the foot of O’Reilly Street, used by visiting -officials and officers of the Navy, stands La Fuerza. On this site was -built the first permanent or stone defense of the city in 1538. The -original walls and fortifications have seen many changes since that date -but one cannot look at them without recalling the pathetic figure of -Dona Isabel de Bobadilla, who in 1539, on the drawbridge of La Fuerza, -where she and her husband, Hernando de Soto, had lived, said “Adios,” as -with an army of 900 men and 350 horses, he set out for the conquest of -Florida “and all the territory that might lie beyond.” - -Day after day, for more than two years, it is said, this faithful wife -walked the parapets of La Fuerza straining her eyes to see his flagship -arise above the horizon of the Gulf, and when at last a storm beaten -bark brought back a few survivors of the expedition, whose leader had -hoped to rival if not surpass the deeds of Cortez in Mexico, or Pizarro -in Peru, she learned that her lord and lover would return no more, that -even his body would never be recovered from the yellow waters of the -Mississippi. It was then that her soul, too, sank into the sea of -despair and soon joined its companion on the shore beyond. - -The dark dungeons of La Fuerza have held hundreds of Cuban patriots -until death or deportation to Africa brought relief. The old stone steps -descending to the ground floor are worn into veritable pockets by the -tramp of feet during a continual occupancy of almost 400 years. Every -outer wall, parapet, alcove and dungeon, if able to speak, “could a tale -unfold.” Now all is silent save the sound of an occasional bugle, the -music of the artillery band, or the laughter of children playing on the -green lawn that separates it from the Senate Chamber. - -The first church built on the Puerto de Carenas, as the Harbor of Havana -was called by the founders of the city, was of adobe, roofed with yagua -from the guana palm. This was destroyed in 1538 by the pirates. Owing to -the extreme poverty of the inhabitants, and to the fact that in spite of -the wealth controlled by the churches of the mother country its -representatives in the Western Hemisphere, especially in the City of -Havana, were left to shift for themselves, and very few contributions -for church building came across the seas to Cuba--it being assumed -evidently that the people of a community deserved no better church than -their financial means justified--it was not until well into the 17th -century that churches were constructed that would at all compare with -the beautiful ecclesiastical structures of Europe. Most of those of -Havana, that were built during the 17th and 18th centuries, resemble, -both in material and architecture, the rather heavy, ponderous and so -called Gothic style that prevailed throughout the Latin American world. - -Immediately back of the old Presidential Palace, former headquarters of -the Captains General of Spain, stands the former convent and church of -Santo Domingo, whose erection was due to the liberality of the Conde de -Casa Bayamo, whose picture until recently hung in the sacristy. This -building occupied the block of ground between O’Reilly and Obispo and -Mercaderes and San Ignacio Streets. It was reconstructed in 1738 and -became the Royal University of Havana. When the University was -transferred to the beautiful site on the heights of Principe, -overlooking Havana from the west, this old relic of bygone ages, with -its ponderous walls and picturesque patio, became the Institute of -Havana, where students still receive that which in English would be -equivalent to a high school education. One portion of the square is -today used as a police station, while the church itself, with its crude -stone figures of saints standing in relief from the outer walls, is -practically abandoned and will probably soon be removed, for the modest -type of sky-scraper or office building that is becoming quite common -throughout the city. - -The cathedral, one of the largest and most imposing of the churches of -Havana, was built by the Jesuits, on the north edge of the old basin or -arm of the Bay that extended from the present shore along the line of -the street now known as Empedrado, as far west as the little San Juan de -Dios Park. This church is built of the tough coral limestone used in -nearly all of the important buildings that stood within the walls of old -Havana. The church, together with the convent and offices in the rear, -is in the form of an irregular quadrangle, covering about a block of -ground, the rear facing the bay itself. The architecture is of the -so-called Gothic that prevails in all of the old-time churches and -convents of the Island. Owing to the fact that, up to 1899, it contained -the bones of Christopher Columbus, this building has always been one of -the prominent places of interest in the city. A tablet in marble, over -the entrance on San Ignacio Street, states that it was consecrated by -his Excellency, Pedro Agustin Morel de Santa Cruz, Bishop of Havana, on -September 8, 1755. This church was declared the Cathedral of Havana in -1789. - -The former tomb of Columbus was located in a niche built for the purpose -on the west side of the altar. When the Spanish forces departed from the -Island in 1899, at the request of the Pope the remains of Columbus were -removed from their long resting place in the Cathedral and carried to -Seville, Spain, where they are at present interred. The interior of the -edifice, although not as elaborately decorated as are some of the other -churches, is nevertheless imposing and well worth a few moments pause to -the passing visitor. - -The San Francisco Convent, one of the oldest churches of Havana, was -completed by Order of the Franciscans in 1591. A part of the hard coral -shore that formed the western edge of the bay, a few blocks south of the -Plaza de Armas, formed a solid foundation for the original building -which, owing to faulty material and construction, lapsed into ruins in -1719. In 1738 the structure which now occupies the spot was built under -the direction of Bishop Juan Lazo. The tower of the Church proper is -considered one of the best samples of ecclesiastic architecture in -Havana. This building fronts on Oficios Street and extends from the -Plaza of San Francisco south for more than a block, parallel with the -Bay front. The old San Francisco convent is the most massive structure -of its kind in Havana. Its long lofty arched passages were well built -and give promise of remaining intact through centuries yet to come. The -large patio in the center is today filled with flowers and admits light -to the many offices, once occupied by the palefaced, sad-eyed inmates of -the convent, now resounding with the click of typewriters and the tread -of feet bent on the ordinary affairs of life. In 1856 this building -became the depository, or general archive, of the Spanish administration -of affairs in the Island. The first American Government of Intervention -used it as a Custom House, where Major General Bliss had his -headquarters. Shortly after the inauguration of the Republic of Cuba -this property together with that of the square now used by the -Institute, was purchased from the Church and continued to be used as the -custom house. In 1916 the old convent, thoroughly renovated, became the -permanent headquarters for the Department of Posts and Telegraphs, for -which it is well adapted. The custom house was transferred to the San -Francisco Wharf, a handsome structure that also shelters the -administration of Trisconia. From 1608 the San Francisco Church was used -as the starting point of the religious processions which annually passed -the “Via de Cruces” or Way of the Cross, along Amargua Street -terminating at the Church of El Cristo at the corner of Aguacate Street, -which was built in 1640. - -The San Agustin Convent was built by the order of San Agustin on -Amergura Street at the corner of Aguiar Street. A tablet on the church -itself states that it was completed in the year 1659. There is nothing -of special interest connected with this church other than its antiquity -and its general air of isolated depression. - -La Merced, located at the corner of Cuba and Merced Streets, was the -culmination of an effort to establish a Merced Convent for that part of -the City of Havana. It was begun in 1746 but not completed until 1792. -La Merced is today considered the most fashionable church in the Island -of Cuba, and during times of religious festivals the decorations of -flowers and illumination of candles are very imposing. This church, and -the National Theatre, during the opera season, furnish perhaps the two -most interesting places in which to study Havana’s élite society. - -[Illustration: IN NEW HAVANA - -While many streets in Havana appear to belong to some Spanish city of -centuries ago, many others vie with those of New York and Washington in -their up-to-date Twentieth Century aspect. There are in both public and -private edifices many examples of the finest modern architecture and -construction, some rising many stories above the two-and three-storied -buildings characteristic of former years.] - -In 1689 the convent of Santa Catalina was built on the square facing -O’Reilly Street, between Compostela and Aguacate Streets, the dedication -of the church taking place in 1700. This convent has been famous for two -centuries for its wealth, devotees vying with each other in the -amount of money or property which they could contribute to the coffers -of the church. It is said that $15,000 was the smallest contribution -that could be accepted from any woman who chose to devote her life and -fortune to the promotion of the Catholic faith and the prosperity of the -Church. No limit was fixed to the amount of the individual contributions -from novitiate nuns, and many of the wealthiest women of Havana society -have disappeared from the social world, within its walls. The property -was sold in 1917 for a million dollars and the inmates were removed to -the new quarters located on the plateau in Vedado. - -The picturesque church that stands on the crest of the hill in the -district of Jesus del Monte was built in 1689. The view from the front -of this church, looking over the city and bay beyond, is very pleasing. - -An attractive church from the viewpoint of its minarets and -architecture, known as Santo Angel, is located on a small hill of that -name near the junction of Cuarteles with Monserrate Street, overlooking -the long stretch of green sward that extends from the new Presidential -Palace to the Park of Luz Caballero. This church, in spite of its name, -seems to have been selected by fate to suffer a number of serious -reverses. In 1828 a stroke of lightning toppled over the tall spire on -its eastern front, and again in 1846 a hurricane that did but little -damage to the city tore down the cupola and brought with it the entire -end of the building. In spite of this however the church has recently -entered into a period of prosperity and is today the center of -fashionable congregations who usually assemble there for twelve o’clock -late mass. - -Santa Teresa was founded in 1701 and is located at Compestela and -Teniente Rey Streets. - -The convent of Santa Clara was built in 1664 and began with a fund of -$550. It extends from Cuba to Havana Streets and from Sol to Luz -Streets, covering two solid blocks of ground, and is the largest convent -in the Island of Cuba. Owing to the recent increase in the price of -city property, the space covered by this convent is valued at -$1,500,000. - -In 1704 the convent of Belen was founded at the corner of Compostela and -Luz Streets, covering an entire block of ground that had served -previously as a recreation park for the Bishop of Compostela. Within -this convent the Jesuit Order established what was known as the “Royal -College of Havana,” whence were graduated some of the city’s famous -lawyers and scholars. This order maintains an Observatory and weather -bureau, whence reports in regard to storms in the Caribbean are -contributed to the daily papers. Belen, among the devout Catholics of -Cuba, is undoubtedly one of the most popular institutions of the West -Indies. - -Shortly after the inauguration of Woodrow Wilson as President of the -United States, Mr. William E. Gonzalez was appointed Minister -Plenipotentiary from that country to the Republic of Cuba, and took up -his residence in the old colonial mansion built by the Echarte family, -located on the corner of Santa Catalina and Dominguez Streets. This -beautiful quinta occupies a block of ground in the old aristocratic -residence district of Cerro, some three miles distant from Central Park. -The building, although only one story in height, is quite imposing, -built of stone with white marble floors throughout, inclosing a -beautiful patio that forms one of the unique and charming attractions of -old-time residences in Havana. A wide marble flagged gallery runs all -around this patio from which a soft subdued light enters the many rooms -facing upon it. A broad porch, whose heavy flat roof is supported by -long rows of stone columns, faces the south, and above it flies the -Stars and Stripes from sunrise to sunset. The garden or grounds -occupying the eastern half of the block are filled with beautiful shade -trees and sweet scented flowers that have been brought from many parts -of the world, while in front a row of stately royal palms reach up some -80 feet or more toward the blue sky. - -La Chorrera, the Fort of Almandares, is a picturesque little old fort, -some fifty feet square and two stories in height, built of coral rock in -the year 1646, which rests upon a little islet not much bigger than the -fort itself, at the eastern entrance of the Rio Almandares. Slave labor -undoubtedly entered into the construction of this fort, although it is -said to have cost 20,000 ducats. A flight of stone steps has been built -up to the second floor that communicates with the entrance to the fort. -Over this is a tablet giving the date of construction and the name of -its builders. - -During the siege of Havana by the British in 1762, Lord Albemarle -determined to land troops west of the City in order to take advantage of -Principe Heights, overlooking the capital from the west. On June 10 a -portion of the British fleet began bombarding La Chorrera. Its -commanders, Captain Luis de Aguiar and Rafael de Cardenas, made a very -stubborn resistance, yielding only when their ammunition had been -completely exhausted. This fort is easily reached by the Vedado car -line, from which a short walk of two blocks brings one to the mouth of -the Almandares, on which the fort is located. - -On the western point, guarding the entrance of the little ensenada or -inlet of Cojimo, four miles east of El Morro is Fort Cojimar, almost the -duplicate of La Chorrera, which was constructed at the same time. These -quaint monuments of the past add considerable historic and picturesque -beauty to the northern coast of Cuba. All of them may be reached by -beautiful automobile drives and are well worth a few moments in passing. - -The Torreon de la Playa, a small round watch tower, was erected on the -eastern shores of La Playa, some three miles west of the Almandares -River, where watchmen were kept both day and night to advise the -authorities and inhabitants of the struggling young colony of the -approach of pirates from the west, or any suspicious sails that might -hove in sight. This structure was built by order of the Town Council, -the “Cabilda,” on order issued on March 8, 1553, naming each individual -who was to contribute either in money or men towards the work. The money -contributed was exacted only from some half dozen of the inhabitants and -amounted to a “real” or ten cents a day. The well-to-do inhabitants were -called on each to furnish one negro with his tools, or lacking tools, a -“batey” or boat in which to convey material. - -A similar tower known as the Torreon de San Lazaro was built in 1556 -upon the western edge of the little inlet, which until the inauguration -of the Republic in 1902 occupied the space where the beautiful -equestrian statue of General Antonio Maceo now stands. - -The picturesque fort known as Atares, located on the hill that commands -the extreme southwestern end of the bay, was begun in 1763, immediately -after the departure of the British, and completed in 1767. It is -occupied at the present time by a small detachment of Cuban artillery, -and is sacred in the eyes of all Americans owing to the fact that -General Crittenden of Kentucky, and his 50 companions who had joined the -unfortunate band of Cuban liberators under the command of Narciso Lopez, -were executed on the western slope of the hill in August, 1851. Atares -is easily reached by the Jesus del Monte cars, and the view from the top -of the hill is worth the climb. - -The Castillo del Principe, the last fortification of the 18th century, -was placed on the western edge of the Principe plateau, on the same spot -where Lord Albemarle with his British troops looked down on the City of -Havana during the siege of 1762. Fort Principe was begun in 1774 and -completed in 1794. The general style of architecture is similar to that -of all the military structures of this period, although Principe is -larger and more commodious than Atares. A deep moat surrounds the -fortification and an old style drawbridge connects the outer edge with -the entrance to the citadel itself. Since the beginning of the Cuban -Republic the fort has been used as a state penitentiary, and is a model -of ideas and methods in the treatment of its convicts. The inmates are -not only taught to read and write, but learn useful trades as well. -Those of musical bent have formed a brass band, in which they have been -encouraged under the intelligent direction of General Demetrio Castillo, -who has had charge of the prisoners in Cuba almost since the beginning -of the Republic. - -The view from the top of the hill is one of the most attractive in the -Province of Havana, and may be reached either by the Principe car line, -which terminates at its base, or by an automobile drive which leads -through a winding way up the hillside to the very entrance of the -fortress. - -The Botanical Gardens, Quinto de Molinos, are a beautiful property -fronting on Carlos Tercero Street and extending along the north side of -the drive from Infanta Street to the foot of Principe Hill. They belong -to the Government. On the corner of Infanta Street is located the new -City Hospital, the largest and most complete institute of its kind in -the West Indies. Just beyond are the ground of the Botanical Gardens and -the Quinto de Molinos, forming a long, beautiful well laid out, shaded -park. Its graveled walks lined with many varieties of stately palms and -tropical plants some indigenous and some brought from other parts of the -world, render the ground a charming and interesting retreat, not far -from the center of the City. The estate covers some 40 acres, and within -its limits are held Agricultural and Live Stock fairs, that under normal -conditions take place annually. These grounds, during Spanish colonial -times, were used as a summer residence by the Captains-General of Cuba, -and for that reason have a certain degree of historical interest, since -here Generals Martinez Campos, Weyler and Blanco, with many of their -predecessors, passed much of their time during the summer season. - -Several picturesque kiosks and artistic structures with seats have been -built for the benefit of the public, and usually during the winter -season open air concerts are given within the grounds once or twice a -week by the Municipal Band. The Quinto is easily reached either by -street car or automobile and there is probably no place within the city -limits where one can pass a more restful and profitable hour, than -within the shade of the Botanical Gardens of Havana. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX - -HAVANA - - -Havana is one of the most charming capitals in the New World. Its very -name, Indian in its origin, conjures up a vivid panorama of four -centuries, crowded with tragedy, pathos, adventure, bold deeds, cruel -crimes and noble sacrifices; on whose rapidly moving film the hand of -fate has pictured every phase of human emotion from the wild dreams of -world conquerors, to the hopeless despair of hunted Cubenos, who -preferred death to slavery. It was on the 25th day of July, 1515, that -Diego Velasquez, while cruising along the south coast of the Island, -stopped on the sandy beach near a native fishing village called -Metabano. The Indians belonged to a tribe known as the Habanas; one of -the thirty different divisions of the Cubenos. Grass-covered plains -extending back from the beach seemed to impress Velasquez favorably, so -he founded a city there and called it San Cristobal de la Habana. - -Toward the close of the year 1519, however, the colonists evidently -disapproved of Velasquez’s selection and moved their town across to the -north coast of the Island at the mouth of the Almandares, where -northeasterly winds made the summers more agreeable. This little stream, -emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, had a depth of twelve or fifteen feet -at the mouth, sufficient for the caravels of those days. But some of the -City Fathers, in their wanderings to the eastward, found the beautiful -bay, then known as Carena. A prophetic glimpse into the future may have -furnished the motive for another change; at any rate a year later they -picked up their household fixtures, carrying with them the town records, -and established the City where it now stands, on the eastern shores of -one of the finest land locked harbors in the world. In 1556 Havana -became the capital of Cuba, the rendezvous of all Spanish fleets in the -Occident, as well as the key to the Gulf of Mexico. - -Havana in the early days of the 16th century consisted of several groups -or clusters of palm thatched huts, not far from the bay, with little -that could suggest a city in embryo. As in all cities built by the -Spaniards in the New World, the first permanent buildings were churches -and monasteries erected for the benefit of the Catholic clergy and -built, as a rule, of adobe or mamposteria, with walls two or three feet -in thickness. The material used was a mixture of rock, earth and sand, -inclosed in facings of plaster. Many of them were decorated with crude -figures and images of saints popular in the community. - -Later, quarries of soft limestone were found in abundance, and from -these, blocks were easily cut which, after exposure to the atmosphere, -formed a hard, durable building material. The coral rock of which both -Morro and Cabañas were built was taken from old quarries scattered along -the north shore from Morro eastward. From these quarries came also the -stone that built the spacious San Francisco Convent, occupied today by -the Central post office. - -As in all Spanish towns, in the New World at least, a plaza or open -square formed the center from which the principal streets radiated. On -the eastern side of the plaza of Havana, in front of La Fuerza, was -erected in after years El Templete, in honor of the first mass held by -the inhabitants of Havana, which took place under a giant ceiba growing -close to the shore of the harbor, in 1519. - -Nearly all of the permanent structures in Havana, up to the middle of -the 17th century, were located on or near the water front, some distance -in from La Punta. Many of these, including La Fuerza, the San Francisco -convent, the old cathedral and La Maestranza, were built of coral -limestone cemented with a mixture the formula for which is said to have -been lost, but which in these buildings has endured the wear of -centuries. Excellent clay for making tile and brick was later found not -far south of the City, so that the more pretentious buildings were -covered with roofs of the criolla tiles that are still common throughout -all Latin America. - -Before the middle of the 15th century, the clearing in which Havana was -located was extended out as far as the street now known as Monserrate, -running from the Gulf front across to the southwestern extension of the -bay. In 1663 a splendid wall was begun along this line and completed -with the help of slaves in 1740. It ran almost north and south, -inclosing the city on the west, and protected it from all attacks coming -from the land side. This wall was twenty feet in height and twelve feet -thick at the base, surmounted at frequent intervals by quaint -round-topped turrets. It had its angles, bastions and points of vantage -for defensive purposes, the work, according to experts, representing a -very high degree of engineering ability on the part of those who planned -it. - -With the exception of one angle and its turret, which stands in front of -the new Presidential Palace, the old walls were removed in 1902, thus -depriving Havana of perhaps the most picturesque feature of the ancient -city. - -Just in front of this wall on the west, a wide clearing was made to -prevent surprise attacks from the forests beyond. With the felling of -the trees, grass soon grew along its entire length, hence the name -Prado, which means meadow, became permanently attached to it, and so the -green lawn in front of the old walls of the 17th century was transformed -two hundred years later into Havana’s most aristocratic avenue. - -The principal thoroughfare, leading from the southern side of the Plaza -de Armas to the Prado, was called Obispo or Bishop Street, which name it -still retains. It is said that the first Bishop of Havana was in the -habit of taking his daily walk out along this road to the main gate of -the City; hence the name. - -Beginning at the water front and running from La Fuerza west, parallel -to Obispo, is O’Reilly Street, named in honor of one of Cuba’s most -energetic Governors-General, who controlled the affairs of Havana in -1763, and who was, as the name suggests, of Irish antecedents. Just -north of O’Reilly and parallel to it we have Empedrado Street which won -its distinction by being paved from the old Cathedral to San Juan de -Dios Park in the time of Governor General Las Casas. South of Obispo -came Obrapia Street, or the Lane of Pious Works. Beyond and parallel to -it came Lamparilla Street, which earned this cognomen owing to the fact -that some progressive citizen in the early days hung a lantern in front -of his residence for the benefit of the public at large. - -Next comes Amargua Street, or the Bitter Way. It is along Amargura that -certain pious and penitent monks were said to practice flagellation. -With shoulders bent, and on their knees, they invited the blows of whips -while wending their way out towards the edge of the city. Incidentally -they collected alms en route. On the southeast corner of Amargura and -Mercaderes Streets a peculiar cross in stucco, painted green, is built -into the wall of the house where, centuries ago, lived a high dignitary -of the church, before which all passing religious processions paused for -special prayers. - -There is hardly a square within the old walled city that has not some -story or legend whose origin goes back to the days of Velasquez, De -Soto, Cortez of Mexico, and other celebrated conquerors of the New -World. - -The Havana of today is a strange mingling of modern, reinforced cement -and stone structures, five or six stories high, with little one or -two-story, thick-walled, tile roofed samples of architecture that -prevailed three hundred years or more ago. City property, however, is -increasing so rapidly in value that many old landmarks along the narrow -streets of the wall inclosed section are being torn down and replaced -with large, well equipped office buildings. - -[Illustration: COLON PARK - -Colon Park, one of the most beautiful pleasure grounds of the Cuban -capital, is also known as the Campo de Marte, and is at the southern end -of the famous Prado. It is noted for its marvellous avenues of royal -palms. From it the Call de la Reina, once one of the most fashionable -streets of the city but now given up to business, runs westward toward -the Botanical Gardens.] - -With the accumulation of sugar estates, coffee plantations, cattle -ranches and resultant wealth, people of means began to seek summer homes -beyond the walls of the old City. All men in those days went heavily -armed for any danger that might threaten, while numerous slaves -furnished protection from common thieves and highwaymen. - -With the development of the outlying districts, trails and roads soon -began to reach out both to the west and south, followed some years later -by what were known as Caminos Reales or Royal Roads, connecting Havana -with Matanzas, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spiritus, -Remedios, Camaguey and Santiago de Cuba. - -One road, known still as El Cerro, ran southwest along the crest of a -ridge that led towards the western part of the Island and in after years -connected Havana with the big coffee plantations in the mountains and -foothills of Pinar del Rio. Along this road were built the first -suburban residences and country homes of the aristocracy of Havana. - -Many of these places were cut out of dense woods, and on one of them, -until less than ten years ago, the original owner, the Conde de -Fernandina, retained a full square of dense primeval forest, not a tree -of which had been removed since the days of Columbus. This remnant of -virgin wilderness, located on the corner of El Cerro and Consejero -Arango Streets, was for some six years passed by the electric car line -of El Cerro. - -All of this section of the City, of course, was long ago built up with -handsome residences that sheltered most of the old Cuban families, who -had inherited the right to titles, coats of arms, and other -paraphernalia pertaining to the monarchy of Spain. Tulipan Park marks -the center of this aristocratic district, and still retains much of its -old-time atmosphere of colonial prestige. - -Further south ran another winding trail that gradually ascended a range -of hills, forming the divide from which the undulating surface slopes -towards the south coast, thirty miles away, where Velasquez located the -original site of Havana. This thoroughfare is known as Jesus del Monte, -or Jesus of the Mountain, and has become quite popular in recent years -on account of reputed healthfulness due to its elevation above the sea. - -When the last remnants of the Spanish army returned to Spain in 1899, -that portion of the City called El Vedado, or The Forbidden, extending -from the Beneficencia, or Orphan Asylum, out to the Almandares River, -three miles distant, was nothing but a goat pasture, with a low sea -front of sharp coral rocks. Its soil was thin and the district -apparently had nothing to recommend it aside from its view of the ocean. - -A little dummy engine pulled a shaky, shabby car out to the Almandares, -making four trips a day. Just why it ran at all was a mystery to the -inhabitants, since there was but little inducement to travel in that -direction. The entire expanse of land from the Santa Clara Battery to -the Almandares, and miles beyond, could have been purchased for a song, -but no one wanted it. - -Two years later some “fool American” erected an attractive bungalow on -the line, about half way to the Almandares, and not long after, sign -boards could be seen with the notice, “Lots for sale,” which invariably -occasioned smiles, since there were no purchasers. But around the -bungalow were laid out pretty grounds, and the suggestion took root. Two -men of means erected beautiful places close by, and the building of -homes in the cactus-covered flats became a fad. - -The price of lots, which began at ten cents a square meter, soon rose to -a dollar, then two dollars, five, ten, twenty-five, and today this -entire section from Havana to the Almandares and beyond, from the dog -teeth coral of the coast, up over the crest of the Principe Hill, is -covered with beautiful modern mansions with splendid grounds, and forms -the residential pride and show ground of the city. - -This marvelous increase in development of suburban property, which -seems to continue with leaps and bounds, has long since passed the -Almandares River and reached out to the Playa and to the Country Club, -while even further west land is sold by the square meter and not by the -caballeria. All has taken place since Leonard Wood stepped into the -Palace as Governor-General of Cuba in the year 1900. - -Another well-known highway that played an important part in the early -history of Havana was called La Reina. This wide, beautiful avenue -begins at the Parque Colon and runs due west until at the crest of the -first ridge the name changes to Carlos Tercero, passing between avenues -of laurels until it reaches the Quinto de los Molinos and the Botanical -Gardens. Passing on around the southern edge of the Principe Plateau, -the avenue continues on to Colon Cemetery, a beautiful spot, commanding -a view of the mouth of the Almandares, and that portion of Vedado lying -between it and the Gulf. Since Havana has but one cemetery for a city of -over 360,000 inhabitants, travel to the last resting place is somewhat -constant over this really beautiful road. - -The view from the western terminus of Principe Hill is one of the finest -in Cuba’s capital. It was this crest that the English Colonel Howe, -after landing his force of three thousand men in 1762 at the mouth of -the Almandares River, ascended and from it saw for the first time the -old walled city lying at his feet, in all its primitive glory. - -This commanding position on the western edge of the Principe Plateau, -with the City of Havana, the Botanical Gardens and the beautiful Quinto -de los Molinos lying at its base, was chosen for the site of the -University of Havana, and no more appropriate place for an institution -of this kind could have been selected. In the near future it will -undoubtedly become one of the most important seats of learning in Latin -America. - -Near the head of the western extension of Havana Harbor is the Loma of -Atares, on whose summit rests a picturesque 18th century fortress of -the same name. The hill rises abruptly several hundred feet above the -level plain, and commands all approaches to the City both from the south -and the west. - -The prado or meadow, that extended along the western front of Havana’s -embattled ramparts, is today changed into a wide esplanade, along which -runs a double driveway for automobiles and carriages. Through the -center, between double rows of laurels and flamboyans, are shaded walks, -shrubs and rare plants of the tropics. On both sides of this fashionable -street, sumptuous mansions, many of them homes of millionaires and -distinguished men of this western Paris, have been built since the -inauguration of the Republic. Attempts have been made at different times -to change the name of this avenue, but the people of Havana, up to the -present, have insisted on retaining the term first given it, the -“Prado,” that always lay between the City gates and the western forests. - -On the east lies the former walled city with its narrow streets and -antique buildings and picturesque landmarks of bygone centuries. On the -west we have the more modern City, that extends for miles both south and -west, where beautiful residences have been erected, some of them -palatial in size and appointments. Several of the more prominent hotels, -too, are located on the Prado where it forms the western boundary of -“Parque Central,” that delightful retreat in the City’s center. In front -of the Park was the large gate that gave entrance and exit to the -traffic of the old time thoroughfares of Obispo and O’Reilly. Many -beautiful club buildings, whose cost ran into millions, are located -along the Prado. - -At the southwestern corner of the Park is the new National Theatre, a -magnificent piece of architecture covering an entire block of ground, -and costing some $3,000,000. This theatre is the largest and best -equipped place of amusement in Havana, and at its entertainments may be -found the elite of the Island republic. The season of grand opera -continues for approximately six weeks every winter, during which the -best artists of Italy, France, Spain and the Metropolitan Opera of New -York furnish entertainment to a music-loving audience, whose taste is as -refined and critical as any in the world. - -The “Parque Central” covers an area equivalent to two city squares, in -which many beautiful shade trees, including the evergreen laurel, the -flamboyan, date and royal palms, and other plants and flowers peculiar -to the tropics, add shade and beauty to the spot. In its center rises an -imposing statue in marble of José Marti. - -From this central point the Prado continues south until it terminates in -the “Parque de los Indies.” Adjoining on the west is the “Parque de -Colon,” with an area equivalent to four large city blocks. Stately royal -palms, india rubber trees, flowering majaguas, cocoanuts and rare -tropical plants, render this park one of the most interesting in the -City. - -Leading away from the head of the Parque de Colon we find a wide avenue -known as La Reina, that extends westward and upward to the summit of -Belascoain, where its width is more than doubled in the Avenue known as -Carlos Tercero. This continues west between two long rows of shade -trees, outside of which are two more drives running parallel to the main -or central avenue. - -This continues out beyond the Botanical Gardens, the Quinto de los -Molinos, whence the main street curves around the crest of the Plateau -of El Principe, and continues on two miles to Colon Cemetery near the -further end of the Plateau, on the east bank of the Almandares. - -Colon cemetery is one of the finest in Latin America. The monument -dedicated to the seventeen firemen who perished beneath the falling wall -of a burning house, consists of a single shaft some fifty feet in -height, surmounted by the figure of an angel, supporting in her arms an -exhausted fireman. Cameos in marble of the faces of the men who died in -the performance of duty, are cut around the base of the monument. -Another beautiful example of the sculptor’s art stands above the tomb of -the “Inocentes,” where lie buried the bodies of the eight youths who -were executed by the Spanish Volunteers, at the foot of the Prado on -November 27, 1871. In this cemetery are buried also many of Cuba’s -famous men and women whose graves are carefully kept, and on Decoration -Day are visited by thousands of people, friends, relatives and admirers, -who leave their tributes of flowers, kind thoughts and tears. - -Music in all its varied forms, from grand opera to the rhythmic beat of -the kettle drum, (which plays such an important part in the orchestras -of native negroes) probably furnishes the chief source of pleasure and -entertainment in the Republic of Cuba. The Havanese have always been a -music loving people, and really excellent musicians are common in the -Capital. - -The Municipal Band of Havana, with some eighty artists, under the -direction of Guillermo Tomas, furnishes music, either in Central Park or -the Malecon, several evenings each week. It is in attendance also at -nearly all official functions, and funerals of prominent men, soldiers, -and officers of the Government. - -This same band has won at different times the admiration and approval of -many audiences in the United States, including that of critical Boston, -where concerts were given in Symphony Hall in 1915. It was also heard at -New York City’s Tercentenary Celebration during the fall of the same -year. Director Tomas is very proud of the medal awarded to his band by -the judges of the Buffalo Exposition in 1901. - -Many other excellent bands belonging to the Navy, and to different -branches of the Army, are noted for their music, and share with the -Municipal in entertaining the public during different evenings of the -week at the Malecon, and at various parks scattered throughout the City. - -The Conservatory of Music located on Galiano Street near Concordia -Street has turned out many brilliant artists during its career of half a -century or more. Recitals of music are usually held in the National -Theatre or in the Salons of the Academy of Arts and Sciences on Cuba -Street. In these halls nearly all the celebrated artists of the world -have given concerts, and hardly a week passes without entertainments by -the best local talent. - -Next to music, driving, either in automobiles or open carriages, over -the beautiful “Careteras” radiating from the City, furnishes probably -the most popular form of diversion in Cuba. Nearly every evening -throughout the year, the view of the Malecon where the Prado and the -beautiful Gulf Shore Drive meet is a scene of animation not soon to be -forgotten. - -The circular Glorieta, with its dome-shaped roof, supported on heavy -stone columns, shelters some one of the famous National bands while -hundreds of people in machines, in carriages, on stone benches and iron -seats, enjoy the music and between selections chat about the various -topics of the day. From eight until ten, under the shadow of the grim -old fortress “la Punta,” and in the blaze of electric lights which line -the Prado and the Malecon, this diversion holds the public, including -all grades of society, from the highest officials to the humblest clerk, -or girl worker in the tobacco factories, who enjoy the benefits of a -true democracy, social and political and financial. - -Some two miles west of the mouth of the Almandares, a little inlet known -as La Playa, fairly well protected from the outer sea, furnishes the -nearest bathing beach for the citizens of Havana and visitors from -abroad. Since the temperature of the Gulf Stream which sweeps along this -part of the northern coast is practically uniform throughout the year, -bathing may be indulged in with pleasure both summer and winter. In the -latter season, however, owing to cool winds that sometimes blow across -the Gulf from the north, only visitors from the United States and -tourists take advantage of this sport. The residents of Havana confine -their bathing season largely to the strictly summer months from May -until November. - -The Havana Yacht Club stands just back from the beach, and from its -front extends some two hundred feet out into the water a splendid -concrete pier, shaded by canvas awnings, and patronized by members of -the club and its guests. This club was established during the first -Government of Intervention and counts among its members many of the best -families of Havana. The interest in yachting has grown rapidly and every -year brings with it interesting sloop yacht and motor boat races, held -either at the Playa or at Varadero, near Cardenas. - -During the bathing season the Marine Band furnishes music from five -until seven in the afternoons. This is enjoyed not only by the members -of the Yacht Club, but also by crowds who throng the beach for a mile or -more on either side. - -The finest beach of Cuba, however, is known as the Varadero, located on -the sea side of Punta Icaca, a narrow strip of land that projects into -the Bay of Cardenas. Here many of the regattas are held during the -summer months, when visitors from the capital go to Cardenas to enjoy -the twenty mile stretch of outside surf bathing. Bathing places cut out -of the coral rocks along the beach of Vedado are also used, especially -by the citizens of that locality. - -Fishing is a sport that furnishes most enjoyable entertainment for those -who are fond of it. Handsome specimens of the finny tribe are frequently -brought in by men and boys, who drift in small boats along the coast, a -mile or so out, and fish both for the table and for profit. Tourists -often find amusement in going out in motor launches at night and fishing -for shark off the mouth of the harbor. Since sharks are usually -plentiful, and of sufficient size to give the angler a tussle before -being brought up to the boat and dispatched, this form of amusement -appeals as a novelty to many who come from the interior of the United -States. - -The markets of Havana are full of excellent fish that are caught all -along the Gulf Stream, between Cuba and the coast of Florida. These are -brought in sloops provided with the usual fish well, which keeps them -fresh until thrown on the wharf just before daylight. The varieties most -sought for, or prized, are the red snapper, known in Spanish as the -“Pargo,” the sword fish, and the baracuta, which are splendid fish, from -two to three feet in length and very game, when caught with hook and -line. - -Of the smaller fish, the Spanish mackerel, the mullet, the needle fish, -and scores of other varieties are always found in abundance. The -pompano, peculiar to the Gulf of Mexico, owing to its delicious flavor -and its entire lack of small bones is probably the most prized of all, -and commands a very high price when it reaches the table of fashionable -hotels in the United States. - -The game of Jai Alai was introduced here from the Basque Provinces of -Spain, during the first Government of Intervention in 1900, and became -very popular with both Cubans and visitors from the United States. -General Leonard Wood and his aides soon acquired the habit of visiting -the Fronton and spending an hour or so in practice every morning. - -Jai Alai is played in a building erected for the purpose with a court -some two hundred feet in length, inclosed on three sides by smooth stone -walls, perhaps forty feet in height, and having a concrete floor. It is -played with two opponents on each side known as the blues and the -whites. The ball is similar to that of the tennis court, made in Spain -with a high degree of resiliency and costing five dollars. It is thrown -from a long narrow wicker basket, or scoop, slightly curved at the -point, to retain the ball while swung to the head or end wall. The -gloved part of the instrument is firmly strapped to the forearm of the -player. The ball is caught in this sling-like scoop, and from its length -of some thirty inches or more is driven with great force from the -further end of the court to the opposite wall. On the rebound it must be -caught by one of the two opponents, on either fly or first bound, -otherwise a point is scored against the side that falls. - -A three-inch band is painted around the end of the court, parallel with -the floor and about four feet above it. The ball must strike the wall -above this band, and the science of the play is to drive it into the -corner at such an angle that your opponents will find it impossible to -catch it as it caroms back. - -Once the game starts, the ball never stops its flight through the air, -from the wicker scoop to the end of the wall and back, until an error is -made which counts against the side that fails to catch it. And since the -player cannot hold the ball in his wicker sling for an instant, the -action is decidedly rapid and the excitement soon becomes intense. - -A player may occasionally be seen to leap into the air, catch and fire -the ball back to the end of the court, he himself falling flat on his -back, leaving his partner to take care of the return. Thirty points -constitute the usual game and about an hour is required in which to play -it. Jai Alai was suspended during the latter part of President Estrada -Palma’s term, on account of the heavy betting that accompanied it, but -owing to insistent popular demand, it was again installed at the Fronton -in the Spring of 1918. - -The game of baseball, brought to Cuba in the year 1900, from the very -start gained a popularity among the natives that has never ceased for a -moment. It is today the national sport of Cuba, and quite a number of -high-priced players from Cuba have occupied prominent places in the big -league clubs of the United States. The local clubs of Havana play a -splendid game, as several crack teams from the United States have -discovered to their surprise and cost, many of them having been sent -home badly beaten. - -The king of sports, however, in Havana, is horse racing, first -introduced from the United States in 1907. Such was its popularity that -capitalists some four years ago, were encouraged to erect in the suburb -of Marianao the finest racing pavilion in the West Indies. The mile -track and the beautiful grounds which surround it are all that lovers of -the sport could desire; while the view from the Grand Stand, across a -tropical landscape whose hillsides are covered with royal palms, with -dark green mountains silhouetting the distant horizon, gives us one of -the most picturesque and attractive race tracks in the world. - -Between the Plaza and Camp Columbia are located the golf links of -Havana, which owing to the natural beauty of the grounds, and the charm -of the surrounding country, with its view of the ocean and distant palm -covered hills, render golfing a pleasure for at least three hundred and -thirty days a year. These natural advantages have made the links of the -Country Club of Havana celebrated in all places where golfing news -reaches those who are devoted to the game. - -In the various public buildings in Havana occupied by the Government of -Cuba may be traced many styles of architecture that have followed each -other from the beginning of the 16th century to well into the 20th. The -old Fort of La Fuerza, that dates from 1538, is now occupied by the -Secretary of War and Navy, and from it orders are issued directing the -management of the two arms of the service, which in Cuba are combined -under one directorate. Aside from modern windows, shutters and -up-to-date office furniture, no changes have been made in the general -outline or contour of this antiquated old fortress, whose entrance and -drawbridge face the Templete close by on the spot where the residents of -Cuba held their early Town Councils and listened to the singing of their -first mass, four centuries ago. - -Next in line of antiquity would come the old San Franciscan Convent, -that in 1916 was converted into a spacious and artistic post-office, -where the Director General of Posts and Telegraphs looks after that -important branch of the Government Service. - -Next in point of age comes the home of the Department of Public Works in -the Maestranza, along the northeastern front of which runs a remnant of -the old sea wall, extending along the west shore of the harbor from the -Cathedral to the head of Cuba Street. This thick walled building, of -only two stories, began as an iron and brass foundry, in which cannon -were made several centuries ago and during later years of Spanish -Colonial occupancy was used as a warehouse for rifles, sabres, pistols -and small arms in general. Here were outfitted officers and men of the -Spanish Volunteers, or loyalists of the Island, during Cuba’s century of -revolutions. With the occupation of American troops in 1900, this -building, covering over a block of ground, was converted into offices of -the Sanitary Department and allied branches, who vouched for the city’s -health and cleanliness during that period. It was here that Major -Gorgas, now Major General, held sway and directed the campaign that -exterminated the stegomyia mosquito, and thus put an end to the dreaded -scourge of yellow fever in Cuba. It is at present occupied by the -various branches of Public Works under the direction of Col. José R. -Villalon, who has earned the reputation of being one of the most -tireless and persistent workers in the Government. The National Library, -whose entrance faces on Chacon Street at present, shares the -accommodations of the Maestranza. - -The Department of Sanitation, with all of its vast ramifications, whose -jurisdiction covers the entire Island, is located in an old colonial -building fronting on Belascoain near the corner of Carlos Tercero -Street, and with its ample patio covers an entire block of ground. This -Department is located more nearly at the center of modern Havana than -any of the other Government offices. - -One of the oldest public buildings, and the largest used for purposes of -Government, known as La Hacienda, is located on the water front between -Obrapia Street and the Plaza de Armas. During the many years of Spanish -rule, not only the Custom House, but nearly all the more important -branches of Government, were located within its walls. With the -inauguration of the Republic, the National Treasury was installed in the -southwest corner of the building, under the direction of Fernando -Figuerdo, who has retained this position of trust during all changes of -administration. The remainder of the ground floor is occupied by the -National Lottery and offices connected with that Institution, which -extend into the entresuelo, or half-story, just above. The second floor -is occupied by the Hacienda, or Treasury Department, whose offices -surround the central patio on all four sides. The third and fourth -floors are devoted to the central offices of the Department of -Agriculture, including the headquarters of its Secretary, General -Sanchez Agramonte. The upper floor, or azotea, is used by the Laboratory -of the Department of Agriculture. The Hacienda is rather an imposing -building from the Bay, on which it faces, and plays a very important -part in the Government work of the Island. - -To the outside world the best known building is probably the old -Governor-General’s palace, fronting on the Plaza de Armas and occupying -the square of ground between Tacon and Mercaderes Streets and between -Obispo and O’Reilly Streets. The palace is two stories in height and -belongs to what may be termed the modern colonial style of Cuban -architecture, with very high ceilings, enormous doors and tall -iron-barred windows that descend to the floor. The interior of the -Palace is occupied by a very pretty palm court with a statue of -Christopher Columbus posing in the center, facing the wide deep entrance -that opens from the Plaza. This building was erected in 1834, as a -residence and headquarters for the Governors General sent out from -Spain, many of whom have occupied the Palace between that date and the -year 1899, when the last Governor General took his departure. It was -here that General Martinez Campos, in the winter of 1896, penned his -cablegram to the Spanish sovereign, stating that Generals Maximo Gomez -and Antonio Maceo, with their insurgent forces, had crossed the Trocha -into Pinar del Rio, for which reason he tendered his resignation, -acknowledging his failure to arrest the tide of Cuba’s War of -Independence. Within this same palace General Weyler planned his scheme -of reconcentration, or herding of the pacificos, non-combatants, old -men, women and children, into barbed wire stockades, where a quarter of -a million of them died of exposure, disease and hunger. It is said that -when informed of their condition and the fearful death rate, he -remarked, “Excellent! Let these renegade mothers die. We will replace -them with women who will bear children loyal to Spain.” It was here also -that his more humane and civilized successor, General Blanco, who in the -last days of 1897 had tried hard to save Spain’s one remaining colony in -America, felt the shock of the explosion that sank the battleship -_Maine_ in Havana Harbor in February, 1898, and exclaimed as he looked -across the bay toward the wreck: “This will mark the saddest day of -Spain’s history.” Within the same room too, Cuba’s first President, the -beloved and revered Tomas Estrada Palma, with tears of humiliation in -his eyes, handed his resignation as President to the American Secretary -of War, William H. Taft, and left for his almost forgotten farm in the -forests back of Manzanillo, where he passed his last days as a martyr to -the greed and cruelty of his own people. - -Diagonally across from the old Presidential Palace, on the northwest -corner of the Plaza de Armas, stands the Senate Chamber, a two-story -building of the same attractive architecture found in the old Palace. It -is in a way a companion to this building, having been designed and -directed as the home and office of the various Lieutenant-Generals of -the Island, in which capacity it served until the termination of Spanish -rule in Cuba. During the two years of American Intervention, various -military departments made their headquarters within this structure, but -with the installation of the Republic in 1902 it was formally dedicated -to the use of the Senate, and officers connected with that branch of the -Legislative government. The lofty salon fronting the Plaza de Armas -served as the Senate Chamber. The 24 members of the upper house held -sessions there on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays of each week. As with -the Presidential Palace, the somewhat lavish use of marble in patios, -floors, stairways, balconies, etc., is much in evidence in this -building. - -Just north of the Senate Chamber, and covering the east side of the long -block on Tacon Street, between the Palace and the Bay, are located the -Bureau of Secret Service, the Department of Government, and those of -State of Justice, all installed at the present time in the same -building. - -This building during Colonial days was occupied by the Department of -Engineers, and with the beginning of American intervention was turned -over to Brigadier General William A. Ludlow, to whose energy is due the -credit of rapidly and effectively cleaning up the city of Havana after -its sanitary abandonment of three centuries duration. General Ludlow -shared the building with General Enoch Crowder. The Palace of State and -Justice has been remodeled and renovated from foundation to azotes. All -of its floors and most of its walls are now finished and decorated in a -manner appropriate to the uses to which it is dedicated. - -During the regime of General Leonard Wood, through an official decree of -that most competent commander, three public buildings were added to the -capital of the Republic, each now bearing his name in an appropriate -placque or tablet in the wall. The first of these was a Bacteriological -Laboratory, now known as the General Wood Laboratory, located on Carlos -Tercero Street in front of the Botanical Gardens. Bacteriological -experiments, which up to that time had been conspicuous by their -absence, have since been carried on faithfully in Havana under the -direction of the celebrated expert in that science, Dr. Aristides -Agramonte. - -Next in order was a handsome three-story stone building, located on -Belascoain a block from the corner of Carlos Tercero Street, dedicated -to the school of Industrial Arts and Sciences. The instruction given in -this Institution since its foundation in 1901, has been efficient, and -of excellent service to the youth of Havana, many of whom have taken -very kindly to this much needed innovation. - -The third of these institutions fathered by General Wood is the Academy -of Sciences and Fine Arts, located on Cuba Street near Amargura Street. -This institution has been a boon and a blessing to the intellectual life -of Havana, since for the first time suitable quarters were offered to -celebrated lecturers, artists and musicians, who find in Havana -appreciative audiences, and where, since the founding of the Academy, -local talent had a fitting theatre in which to display its merit. - -Since the beginning of the Republic in 1902, under President Estrada -Palma, the old Governor General’s Palace was found rather limited in its -accommodations. Not only was it compelled to shelter the President and -his family, together with the many offices belonging to the Executive -Department, but it also shared its accommodations with the City Council, -and many of the dependencies of that Institution. With the rapid growth -of the City, and the unavoidable increase in the work of all -departments, consequent on the development of commerce and trade with -the outside world, these quarters, each year, have been found -increasingly cramped and unsatisfactory. - -During the regime of President José Miguel Gomez, a new Presidential -palace was planned, and work was begun on it on the site formerly -occupied by the Villa Nueva Station, belonging to the United Railways of -Havana. This ample space, facing for several blocks on the Prado and -Colon Park, was exchanged, by an Act of Congress, for the old Arsenal -Grounds on the water front, desired by the railways for a Grand Central -Station, for which they were excellently adapted. The plans of this -structure, as well as the beginning of the work, were found to be most -unsuited to a Presidential Palace, and by order of President Menocal, at -the suggestion of the Secretary of Public Works, work was discontinued -and abandoned for other plans and better construction. - -Previous to the inauguration of President Menocal funds were voted for -the erection of a Provincial Palace or State House, on the property -belonging to the Government located between Monserrate and Zuleuta -Streets, just at the head of the long, beautiful stretch of open land -that sweeps down to the sea from the crest of the low hill, where rests -the last remnant of the city walls. This location, with its view of the -Luz Caballero Park, of the entrance of the Bay of Havana and the Morro -Headland on the opposite side, is one of the finest in the City, and -naturally appealed to the artistic taste of General Menocal as the true -location for a Presidential Palace. The Provincial Building had been -planned on a scale altogether unsuited for the offices of a Provincial -Council, whose members were limited to less than ten, and whose services -were of so little utility that several proposals for their -discontinuance had been considered. More than all, funds for the -completion of the building had been more than exhausted, and large debts -to contractors were pending. To relieve this emergency and liquidate the -indebtedness, it was finally resolved by the National Congress to take -over the property, reimbursing the Provincial Government with the -$540,000 which they had expended, and to dedicate this building to the -purpose of a Presidential Palace that would be more appropriate to the -demands of the Executive Department in a rapidly growing Republic. - -A million dollars was appropriated for this purpose, which sum has since -been augmented in order to carry out the interior decoration of the -building along lines that would be in keeping with its proposed use. The -new Presidential Palace is four stories in height built of white stone, -the architecture being a harmonious combination of the Medieval and -Renaissance, terminating with a magnificent dome that rises from the -center of the building. The interior decoration of the new Palace has -had the benefit of skilled experts, and everything is in harmony with -the purpose to which the building was dedicated. The great Salon de -Honor is in the style of Louis XVI, while the State Dining Room is -modeled after the Italian Renaissance. The main entrance, principal -staircase, the hall and the general dining-room are of Spanish -Renaissance. The Salon de Damas is decorated in modern French style. All -of the other rooms that pertain to the personal equipment of the Palace, -and comprise the east wing, follow the same general line of architecture -and decorations, varying only in design and colors. The Palace is beyond -doubt, in location, design and decoration, one of the most beautiful and -interesting structures of its kind in the western hemisphere. - -Work on the new capitol building, which is to replace the architectural -mistake of its original founders, was begun in 1918, with the purpose of -making this building the most imposing and stately modern structures of -its kind in the West Indies. It will be four stories in height and cover -5,940 square meters of ground, with a floor space of 38,195 square -meters. Above this spacious structure will rise a splendid dome in -keeping with the architecture of the main building. One half of the -building will be devoted to the use of the House of Representatives, -while the other will be occupied by the Senate. It will contain offices -and apartments for the Vice President, Committee halls, etc., and will -be furnished with all of the conveniences and improvements of modern -times. The Hall of Representatives will accommodate 133 members, and may -be increased up to 218. The Senate Chamber has ample capacity for the 24 -senators, with accommodations in each of these Congressional halls for -visitors and the general public. Elevators will reach all floors and the -interior decorations will be in keeping with the purpose to which the -new Capitol Building is devoted. - -During the Presidency of General Mario Menocal, work was begun on the -National Hospital, which when completed, will be one of the finest -institutions of its kind in the world. The grounds are located on the -northwest corner of Carlos Tecero and Belascoain Streets, occupying the -eastern extension of the Botanical Gardens that adjoin the hospital -grounds on the west. The location, near the center of what may be termed -modern Havana, is excellent, and the work as planned will constitute a -very important adjunct to the maintenance of health in Havana. - -The plans contemplate the erection of 32 modern buildings, constructed -of white limestone and reinforced concrete. Sixteen, or one-half of -these had been finished in the fall of 1918. This hospital when complete -will cost approximately a million and a half of dollars, and will rank -with those of the best of America and Europe. The institution has been -named in memory of General Calixto Garcia. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX - -A PARADISE OF PALM DRIVES - - -To those who are fond of motoring in the tropics, the world offers no -more delightful field than the Island of Cuba from the end of October -until early May, with Havana as a point of departure. Some fourteen -hundred kilometers or 850 miles of clean, cream colored macadamized -drives stretch out to the east, south and west of Havana, each inviting -the tourist or lover of nature to feast his eyes on a fascinating -panorama of mountain, hill and dale; of canon, cliff and undulating -plain. - -Long lines of stately royal palms, of white-trunked Cuban laurel, from -whose branches the glossy green leaves never fall, of cocoas, mangoes, -almonds, tamarinds, and a score of others, border mile after mile of the -national highways, furnishing grateful shade and softened light that -otherwise would try the eyes. Every turn and curve of the driveway -brings change. There is no sameness of landscape, no monotony of level. -Each mile, each moment, presents something new. Expectation is seldom -disappointed. - -Nothing perhaps is more startlingly novel or strikingly beautiful than -when, in early summer, the touring car, rounding a curve, suddenly -brings to view a line of flamboyans in full bloom. Lips open in -surprise, eyes fasten on what seems a forest of fire. The great banks of -brilliant red and golden yellow waving in the breeze need only smoke to -proclaim the roadside all ablaze. The camouflage of Nature is perfect -and strangers of the tropics will bid the chauffeur pause until they can -feast their eyes on this riot of color. - -[Illustration: AN AVENUE OF PALMS - -The splendid highways which under the Republic have been created in all -parts of Cuba have not been left as mere roadways, but have been -provided with hundreds of thousands of shade trees, for the comfort of -travellers as well as for the scenic beauty which they enhance. There -are hundreds of miles of driveways shaded and adorned with stately palms -or other trees, like that shown in the illustration.] - -The most interesting excursions through Cuba radiate from the -Capital. One of exceptional charm stretches east through Matanzas to -Cardenas, a comparatively modern, well built little city of some thirty -thousand souls, resting on the southern shore of Cardenas Bay, just a -hundred miles from Havana. - -One of the old colonial, solidly-built military roads leaving Havana was -constructed along a comparatively straight line for 48 kilometers to the -little city of Guines, located in the southeastern center of the -province of Havana. The road, bridges, and culverts are built solidly of -stone, while giant laurels, almonds and flamboyans on both sides of the -way furnish a continuous stretch of shade beneath which the voyager -travels from one end of the road to the other. This drive is over a -rolling, and in places a decidedly hilly country, which relieves -monotony and at the same time adds greatly to the picturesqueness of the -highway. Many little villages such as San Francisco, Cotorro, Cautro -Caminos, Jamaica, San Jose, Ganuza and Loma de Candela or “Hill of the -Candle,” are passed between Havana and Guines. These, to the stranger -are always a source of novelty and interest. From the top of the Loma de -Candela, a beautiful view of the valley below spreads out towards the -south. This is known as the Valley of Guines, a large part of which has -the good fortune to have been brought under a rather crude but -nevertheless efficient system of irrigation many years ago. The water -for this irrigation comes from a large spring that, like many others in -the Island, bursts from some big cavern below the surface and forms a -river that eventually reaches the sea a little east of the village of -Batabano, on the south coast. Some three miles from Guines the river is -brought under control by a rather crude dam of cement through which it -is distributed by ditches over the lands, referred to usually as the -“Vegetable Garden of the Province of Havana.” Here large quantities of -tomatoes, egg plants, peppers, squash and Irish potatoes are grown -during the late fall and winter months. The produce of this section is -shipped to the United States as long as market prices justify, after -which ready sale is found in the local markets of the capital. - -From Guines another drive extends some 13 kilometers towards the -northeast to the town of La Catalina on the way to Matanzas. The -distance from Havana to Matanzas is shortened by a connecting link 16 -kilometers in length which branches off the Guines highway at Ganuza, -and runs due east through La Catalina to the town of Madruga, 63 -kilometers from Havana. This section of the road follows a ridge of low -hills or mountains. From Madruga the drive turns sharply to the -northeast, entering the Province of Matanzas, 25 kilometers east of the -border line. - -The drive from Havana to Matanzas is 100 kilometers or 60 miles in -length, and passes through a section of country every mile of which -brings to view charming bits of tropical scenery, together with an -opportunity to see something of the life of the inhabitants in the -interior of the Island. If one has time to stop, or cares to leave the -main highway at Ceiba and cross the ridge of hills about a mile distant, -a beautiful little valley lies below, on the other side of the divide. -The drive from Havana to Matanzas is usually made in about three hours, -and, aside from the attractions furnished by the city and its suburbs -spread out along the western side of the harbor, will furnish a very -pleasant diversion for an early morning or late afternoon excursion. - -Another of the old Spanish colonial military roads, leaving Havana -through the suburb of Marianao, sweeps away towards the southwest in a -comparatively straight line until it reaches the city of Guanajay, 42 -kilometers distant. Here the road divides, one branch running due south -to the little city of Artemisa, located in the center of the pineapple -district, which furnishes a large part of the fruit shipped to the -United States. From Havana to Artemisa, 58 kilometers, Cuban laurels, -royal palms and flamboyans furnish a continuous and often dense shade -throughout its entire length. In some places, for miles, the road -resembles a long green tunnel passing through foliage that arches up -from the sides and meets in the center above. From Las Mangas, 7 -kilometers south of Artemisa, the road swings sharply to the westward -and so continues through a more open country with less shade and less -traffic. There is no speed limit on the country roads of Cuba, and if -the condition of the drive permits, one can skip along at a 40 or 50 -mile clip between villages, with little danger of interference. This -westerly drive swings on through Candelaria, 82 kilometers from Havana, -where one gets the first glimpse of the long picturesque range of the -Organ Mountains some five miles away to the north. These parallel the -road to the western terminus of the Island. - -From the village of Candelaria a short drive not over five miles in -length reaches up to the base of the Ruby hills, which at this point -form a perpendicular cliff several hundred feet in height, over which -falls a stream of water whose volume during the winter is comparatively -small, but the drop is perpendicular and the roar of the torrent during -the rainy season can be easily heard at Candelaria. Just above the falls -are a group of mineral springs, iron, sulphur, etc., that were once very -popular, and during slavery days, which terminated in 1878, many -families passed the warm months at these baths, the ruins of which can -still be seen. About four kilometers of this road to the falls is -macadamized and the remainder can be negotiated readily by an ordinary -carriage. A connecting link some 20 kilometers in length has been -proposed to connect Candelaria with San Diego de Nunez and Bahia Honda -on the north coast, but the cost of the road through the mountains may -prevent its completion for some time. - -San Cristobal, 10 kilometers further west, and 92 kilometers from -Habana, was the terminus of one of the old military roads at the -beginning of the Cuban Republic. Since this time a beautiful automobile -drive has been continued out to Guane, 246 kilometers from Havana, and -will soon reach La Fe and Los Arroyos, two points on the extreme western -coast about 30 kilometers further on. - -Nine kilometers west of San Cristobal a connecting link with the main -highway has been built to the town of Taco-Taco, about a mile and a -quarter distant on the railroad, with another branch 7 kilometers in -length running due north to the foot of the mountains. This road will be -built straight across the Organ Range, through Rangel and Aguacate, to -Bahia Honda on the north coast, passing the old time “cafetales” or -coffee plantations of Pinar del Rio, and also through some of the rich -mineral zones of that region. The uncompleted link is only about 20 -kilometers but is over a rather difficult mountainous country. - -At the 117th kilometer post a highway of six kilometers connects with -the town of Palacios on the Western Railway, while at the 123rd, still -another branches south to Paso Real with a northern extension that -reaches San Diego de los Banos, 9 kilometers distant. This road too, -will eventually cross the mountain range and connect with Consolacion -del Norte, whence the road has already been completed to Rio Blanco on -the north coast, 9 kilometers away. - -The drive from the main line to San Diego de los Banos is through an -extremely picturesque country of hill and dale, and the village itself -is well worthy of a visit. Like the Candelaria Springs, the San Diego -Baths have long been famous, and the latter still continue to be so. The -springs of hot and cold water impregnated with sulphur, iron and other -minerals are said to have valuable medicinal qualities. - -From the cross roads at the 123rd kilometer the main trunk-line passes -through a series of low hills, but with grades so reduced that motors -have no difficulty in negotiating them. From the town of Consolacion, -151 kilometers from Havana, one enters the eastern border of the -celebrated Vuelta Abaja tobacco district that lies spread out on either -side of the driveway. On either side are low hills with gentle slopes -and little oases or “vegas” of land that are not only rich, but contain -that mysteriously potent quality which from time immemorial has produced -the finest tobacco in the world. - -Pinar del Rio, the capital of the province, is located at the 172nd -kilometer and forms a center from which five different automobile drives -radiate. The western line, which may be considered as an extension of -the main highway, will eventually connect San Antonio, the western -terminus of the Island, with Cape Maisi in the east, 800 miles away. -This road to the northwest soon enters the mountains, through which it -passes many rises, falls and unexpected turns, bringing into view a -picturesque country, rugged but not forbidding. At kilometer 200, a -point known as Cabezas or “the Head,” the drive turns at a right angle -and sweeps down towards the plain below, terminating at Guane, 246 -kilometers from Havana, on the western edge of the celebrated Vuelta -Abajo. A shorter line between Pinar del Rio and Guanes, passing through -San Juan y Martinez, is under process of construction. The latter city -is located in the western center of the Vuelta Abajo district. - -From this city, a modern little place of some 12,000 or 15,000 -inhabitants, another branch of the trunk line, 25 kilometers in length, -passes through a level country until it reaches La Paloma, a landing -place for coasting vessels and light draft steamers of the Caribbean -Sea. - -From the capital of the Province due north a line 52 kilometers in -length has been built straight across to La Esperanza on the north -coast, a little fishing village located on the bay formed by the -outlying islands some six miles from the mainland. The road ascends by -comparatively easy grades to a height of some 1800 feet, where the top -of the ascent is reached. Here the line takes a sharp curve to the east, -bringing suddenly into view, as Rex Beach exclaimed: “The most -picturesquely, dramatically beautiful valley in the world!” This -strangely hidden mountain recess or park is known as the Valley of -Vinales, and forms part of a strange basin, that has been carved out of -the heart of the Organ range by erosion, leaving a quiet grass covered, -flat bottomed basin 2,000 feet below the top of the ridge from whose -level surface strange, round topped limestone hills are lifted -perpendicularly to an altitude of 2000 feet. A small stream courses -through the rich grass that carpets the floor, and one lone picturesque -little village, with houses of stone and roofs of tile, nestles in its -center. The inhabitants of the place seem absolutely content with its -quiet charm and seldom see anything of the outside world, except as -represented by the occasional tourist, who sweeps through with his car, -stopping for a moment perhaps for some simple refreshment, and then on, -through the narrow gap between the towering “magotes” that form the -northern wall of the valley. Here the road suddenly swings to the west, -following the foot of the mountain which towers above for a few -kilometers, whence it again turns north, and passes out into the -comparatively barren pine covered hills that continue on through San -Cayetano until the gulf coast is reached at La Esperanza. - -In returning after a rather primitive fish breakfast which can be had at -La Esperanza, it is worth one’s while to pause for a moment in front of -the little country school, on the west side of the road, just before the -Valley is entered from the north, and there to secure a child guide, -whom the courteous professor will indicate, and with the services of -this little pilot you may find the reappearing river, a stream that -slips under the base of the mountain within the valley, and reappears -from a picturesque, cave-like opening on the other side. The stream is -only a few yards in width, with the water clear as crystal and very -pleasant to drink. - -Standing on the rocks in the shade of the cliffs above, one can hear the -roar of the water some place back in the depths of the range, where it -evidently falls to a lower level. A visit to this spot gives one an -opportunity to note and observe at close hand the peculiar formations of -the rocks, full of pockets and openings, from every one of which -protrudes some strange growth of tropical vegetation. To explore the -Valley of Vinales and its various turns, narrowing up between steep -walls in some places, opening out into beautiful parks at others, would -require a week at least, but would afford a rare diversion never to be -regretted. - -The little city of Guanajay, at which the long western automobile drive -divides, is located on an elevated plateau, some thousand feet above the -level of the sea. From the little central plaza of the town a beautiful -road leaves in a northerly direction, passing through cane fields and -grazing lands for some five or six kilometers, until it reaches the -crest from which the road descends to the harbor of Mariel. It is worth -while to pause at this point and note the beautiful panorama of hills on -all sides and the tall peaks of the Organ range of Pinar del Rio to the -westward. From this point down, for two kilometers, the descent is -rather steep, winding, and picturesque. - -Thirteen kilometers from Guanajay the little fishing village of Mariel -is found at the head of one of the deep protected harbors of the north -coast. The view from the head of the bay is very interesting, with high -flat promontories on the east, perched on the crest of one of which is -the Naval Academy of the Republic, the Annapolis of Cuba. A little -further on may be seen a large cement plant erected in 1917, beyond -which, on the point, is the quaint old light-house that has done duty -for many years. The western shore line is broken into tongue-like -projections, with deep recesses between, all covered with fields of -waving sugar cane. - -On the extreme western point, at the entrance of the harbor, is located -the Quarantine Station where passengers and crews from foreign vessels -in which some infectious disease has appeared are cared for in cleanly -commodious quarters until the sanitary restriction is removed. The -National Quarantine Station has been chosen by President Menocal as a -favorite anchorage for his private yacht during the warm months of -summer. Fishing in this bay, too, attracts many tourists. - -Near kilometer 10, on the Mariel Drive, the road divides, the western -branch sweeping away at right angles through rich cane fields as far as -the eye can see and gradually ascending towards the little village of -Quiebra Hacha, near which are several magnificent sugar estates whose -mills grind day and night through six or eight months every year. At the -18th kilometer, the road turns due west and follows the crest of a range -of low hills which sweep along the southern shore of the harbor of -Cabanas. - -The view of this bay from the drive is one of the finest in Cuba. Every -turn of the road shows some part of the bright blue waters, dotted with -palm crested islets a thousand feet below. The entrance of the harbor, -with a small island just inside the mouth, its quaint old 17th century -fortress recalling the days of the pirates and buccaneers of the Spanish -Main, can be seen in the distance. - -For eight or ten miles the drive follows the general trend of the -shoreline, leaving it finally with a graceful turn and many changes of -level, as hill after hill is either climbed or circled. The driveway -sweeps on westward through a country devoted to cane growing and stock -raising, until another beautiful deep water harbor known as Bahia Honda -is sighted off to the northwest Eventually the drive passes through and -terminates abruptly about a kilometer and a half beyond the little -village of Bahia Honda or Deep Bay, that was built over two kilometers -back from the head of the harbor over a century ago, when the -inhabitants still feared the incursion of enemies from the sea. The town -lies just at the foot of forest covered hills that come gradually down -from the Organ Range some six miles back. The town itself, aside from a -certain quaintness, common to all interior cities of Cuba, has but -little interest. A short driveway leads to the head of the bay and the -inshore lighthouse. - -The harbor is some five or six miles in length by three or four in -width, and furnishes splendid anchorage even for deep draft vessels. -This bay was originally chosen as the north shore coaling station for -the United States Government in Cuba, but afterwards was abandoned as -unnecessary. Two range lights render entrance at night easy, while just -west of the mouth on the long line of barrier reefs known as the -Colorados, stands the new Gobernadora lighthouse, erected a few years -ago for the benefit of ships plying between Havana and Mexico. - -The drive from Havana to Bahia Honda, with the little digression towards -Mariel, is sixty miles in length. The rather heavy grades in places, and -the beauty of the scenery throughout its entire length, discourage fast -motoring, but the jaunt can easily be made between “desayuno” at seven -and the Cuban “almuerzo” or breakfast at eleven. No trip of equal length -in the Republic furnishes greater charm to the lover of picturesque -Nature than does this north shore drive to Bahia Honda. When connected -as planned, with Vinales, some 50 kilometers further west, it will rank -with, if not excel, any other drive known in the tropical world. - -From Matanzas several short lines radiate, all of which are interesting, -especially those which wander through the valley of the Yumuri, and -another seven kilometers in length which follows the shore line and -sweeps up over the ridge, affording a beautiful view of the Yumuri, -stretching out to the westward. Another short line, only a few -kilometers in length, has been built to the caves of Bellamar, a -favorite resort for winter tourists. - -Another drive reaching south to La Cidra, 16 miles distant, on the -railroad to Sabanilla, enables one to form some conception of the -country to the southward of the capital. Only a few kilometers from -Matanzas one of the main trunk lines has been completed as far east as -Contreras, 60 kilometers. From this line, just beyond Ponce, a branch -runs 8-1/2 kilometers to the charming little city of Cardenas, resting -on the southern edge of the bay. - -Extending from Cardenas due west is another line, terminating at the -little town of Camarioca, 18 kilometers distant. Some five kilometers -along this road a branch sweeps north 10 kilometers to the Playa of -Varadero, the finest beach in the Island of Cuba, where many of the -wealthier families assemble for the summer to enjoy surf bathing on the -outer shore, and where the annual regatta is held during the season. - -From Contreras the northern trunk line has been projected eastward, -through Corralillo, across the border into the Province of Santa Clara. -Short stretches of this line have been completed from the towns of Marti -and Itabo, but up to January 1, 1919, no trunk line extended further -west than Cardenas. - -Cienfuegos, one of the principal seaports of the south coast of Santa -Clara, is the center from which two automobile drives radiate. One runs -26 kilometers to the westward, terminating at Rodas and passing through -a number of rich sugar estates. The other runs northeast, through -Caunao, Las Guaos, Cumaneyagua, and Barajagua, terminating at -Manicaragua, 38 kilometers distant. It penetrates the valley of the -Arimao where a good quality of tobacco, known as the Manicaragua, is -grown. The scenery is delightfully picturesque and interesting. -Manicaragua is on the western edge of one of Santa Clara’s most -important mining districts. - -From Casilda, another seaport on the south coast, a short line has been -built to the quaint, old-time city of Trinidad, perched on the side of a -mountain and founded by the companions of Christopher Columbus in 1514. -This road has been extended further north ten kilometers and will -eventually reach the important railroad junction and road center of -Placetas, on the Cuba Company’s line, connecting the western with the -eastern end of the Island. - -From Santa Clara, the capital of the Province, several short lines -radiate in different directions. The longest sweeps through a rich cane -and cattle country, connecting the villages of La Cruz, Camajuani, -Taguaybon and Remedios, and terminating at Caibarien, the principal -seaport on the northeast coast of the Province. None of the trunk lines -proposed, up to January, 1919, had crossed the line into Camaguey. - -Camaguey, owing perhaps to the fact that the province is less thickly -settled than any other in Cuba, has but few auto drives; the only ones -worthy of mention radiating from the capital, Camaguey. One runs west -some 10 kilometers, parallel with the Cuba Company’s railroad lines, -while the other extends east 34 kilometers passing through the charming -agricultural experimental station of Camaguey. This splendid provincial -institution, under the direction of Mr. Roberto Luaces, is located five -miles from the city. Since the greater part of the province is -comparatively level, road building in Camaguey is not expensive and will -probably be rapidly extended in the near future. - -Oriente, owing to its mountainous character, presents more serious -engineering and financial problems than any other of the Island. The -wealth of its natural resources, however, especially in cane lands and -mineral deposits, will undoubtedly furnish an impetus for further -building. - -At present several short lines radiate from Santiago de Cuba, its -capital, located on the beautiful harbor of that name. One of these runs -due north to Dos Caminos, and then west to Palma Soriana, passing -through San Luis. The length of this line is approximately 40 -kilometers. Still another, fifteen kilometers long, reaches Alto Songo, -northeast of Santiago, passing through Boniato, Dos Bocas, and El -Cristo. - -During General Wood’s administration of Santiago Province surveys were -made at his instigation and roads were completed to nearly all those -points of historical interest where engagements took place between -Americans and Spanish troops in the summer of 1898. One of these lines, -six kilometers in length, carries the visitor to the village of El -Caney, where the brave Spanish General Vara del Rey lost his life in its -defense. The fortifications were shelled and captured by General William -A. Ludlow of the U. S. Engineering Corps. - -Another, reaching out towards the northeast some five kilometers, -terminates at the top of San Juan hill, where Theodore Roosevelt got his -first experience of mauser rifle fire. On the crest of this loma a -little pagoda has been erected, from the second story of which splendid -views of the surrounding country may be enjoyed and of all places where -engagements occurred. Brass tablets form the window sills of this -picturesque outlook, each one carrying an arrow stamped in the brass, -indicating the various points of interest, followed by a brief -description of the places, with dates of battles, etc. On the same road -may be seen the famous ceiba tree under which the armistice was signed -terminating the war between Spain and the United States. - -Another short line ascends to the crest of a hill in the Sierra Maestra -from which may be enjoyed a charming view of the Bay, city and -surrounding country for many miles. The longest automobile drive in -Oriente extends from the harbor of Manzanillo on the west coast almost -due east to the village of Juguani, 58 kilometers away, passing through -Yara, Veguitas and Bayamo. This line is being rapidly extended to Baire, -and thence on to Palma Soriana, thus completing the connection between -Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba. - -A short line from Baracoa on the extreme northeastern coast of the -Island, has been built in a southerly direction to Sabanilla, 12 -kilometers. Local machines can be found at all of these points that -will carry the tourist the length of the line, enabling him to form some -conception of a section that otherwise could be penetrated only by -mountain ponies or on mule back. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI - -BAYS AND HARBORS - - -Nothing is more essential to the general prosperity of a mercantile -country than good harbors. They are the economic gateways to the -interior, through which all foreign trade must come and go. Cuba in this -sense is essentially fortunate, especially along her north coast, where -sixteen large, deep, well protected bays and harbors of the first order -empty into the Gulf of Mexico, and into the north Atlantic, furnishing -thus direct avenues of trade to the greatest commercial centers of the -world. - -Four harbors and bays of the first order are distributed along the -southern coast, emptying into the Caribbean, and through that great -tropical sea pass the avenues of trade that connect Cuba with the -republics of Central America, Colombia, Venezuela, the Guianas, Brazil, -Uruguay and the Argentine, while the Panama Canal permits direct water -communication, not only with the republics of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and -Chile, but also with the west coast of Mexico, and the United States, as -well as with Japan and the Orient. With North Africa and the -Mediterranean are direct lines of trade through the old Bahama Channel, -while central and southern Africa are reached by way of the Lesser -Antilles and Barbadoes. - -Most of the foreign trade at the present time is with the American ports -along the eastern coast of the Atlantic and through the Gulf ports by -which Cuba has access to the Mississippi Valley, while along the Gulf -Stream Cuba has a direct avenue, as well as a favorable current, that -carried her commerce to England, France and other countries of western -Europe. - -Beginning with the harbors and bays of the north coast we have the -western group located in Pinar del Rio, on the Gulf of Mexico, not -distant from Vera Cruz and Tampico in Mexico, or Galveston in Texas, -while almost facing them we have New Orleans, Pascagoula, Mobile and -Pensacola, with Tampa on the Florida coast. - -On this group the first is that fine deep land locked deep-water harbor -of Bahia Honda (deep bay), sixty miles west of Havana, that was first -selected by the Government of the United States as a coaling station, -but afterwards surrendered for Guantanamo on account of the latter’s -proximity to the Panama Canal and the Pacific, to which it gives -entrance. Bahia Honda has a deep, rather narrow and fairly straight -channel that leads from the Gulf into a beautiful sheet of water, -extending some five or six miles into the interior, where good anchorage -may be found for quite a fleet of vessels. A twelve mile light is -located on the western entrance of the harbor, while two fine range -lights enable shipping to leave or enter at night. The little town of -Bahia Honda, three miles back, is connected with the port by a fine -macadam highway. Owing to the fact that this section of Pinar del Rio, -although rich in minerals, has not been brought under development up to -the present, most of the commerce is confined to the local trade between -Bahia and Havana, sixty miles distant. - -Twelve miles further east and forty-eight miles from Havana, we have the -beautiful harbor of Cabanas, a large, double-purse-shaped, interior bay, -that extends some ten miles from east to west and furnishes one of the -most picturesque land-locked harbors on the north coast. A small island -in the entrance, on which is located one of the old time forts of the -17th century, obscures the bay itself from passing vessels. The shores -of Cabanas are covered with extensive sugar cane fields that furnish -cane to the surrounding mills, while its commerce is at the present time -almost entirely local. - -Located in the same province, some 18 miles further east, and only 30 -from Havana, is the harbor of Mariel, a single-purse-shaped bay, that -from its narrow entrance opens out to a broad picturesque sheet of water -extending southward some four or five miles, while several prolongations -extend out towards the southwest, bordered with rich sugar cane -plantations. The little fishing village of Mariel is located at the -extreme head of the bay and connected with Havana by automobile drive, -as are the two harbors previously mentioned. A high table land extends -along much of the eastern shore of this harbor, on the summit of which -stands the Cuban Naval Academy. Near the entrance, on the eastern shore, -is located a new cement factory with a capacity of a thousand barrels a -day. On the western side of the entrance is the quarantine station, to -which all infested vessels are sent, and where delightful accommodations -are found ashore for both passengers and crew, who may be detained by -sanitary officials of the central government. - -The fine deep-water harbor of Havana, which boasts of a foreign trade -excelled in the western hemisphere only by that of New York City, is, of -course, the most important commercial gateway of the Republic of Cuba. -It is one of those deep, narrow-necked, purse-shaped harbors, so -characteristic of the Island, and furnishes splendid anchorage, with -well equipped modern wharves, for handling the enormous bulk of freight -that comes and goes throughout every day of the year. After passing the -promontories of El Morro and Cabanas, that stretch along the eastern -side of the entrance for a mile or more, the remainder of the shores of -the Bay of Havana are comparatively low, although high ridges and hills -form a fairly close background in almost every direction. Within the -last ten years a great deal of dredging and land reclaiming has taken -place in this harbor, increasing greatly not only the depth of water but -also the available building sites. A series of magnificent modern -wharves have been built along the western shore of the harbor, -furnishing splendid shipping facilities for incoming and outgoing -vessels. The upper portions of these buildings are occupied by the -Custom House and Quarantine authorities. The southwest extension of this -bay, recently dredged, furnishes access to deep draft steamships up to -the site of the old Spanish Arsenal, that in 1908 was converted into the -freight and passenger yards of the United Railroads. Along the docks, -where steamers of the P. & O. SS line are moored, were built and -launched many of Spain’s ships that centuries ago fought with Great -Britain for the dominion of the seas. On the broad topped promontory -that lies along the eastern shore, southeast of Cabanas, is located -Trisconia, a splendidly equipped detention camp for immigrants and -passengers coming from infested ports in different parts of the world. -Excellent accommodations are there provided during the period of -detention, which may last anywhere from five to fifteen days. This is -the “Ellis Island” of Cuba, and has been a credit to the Republic since -the first year of its installment in 1902, during which time it has been -under the able direction of Dr. Frank Menocal, who takes great personal -pride in having Trisconia, with its floating population, running -sometimes into the thousands, one of the best appointed stations of its -kind in the Western Hemisphere. - -The harbor of Matanzas, sixty miles east of Havana, is a beautiful wide -mouthed bay, or open roadstead, facing on the Gulf Stream as it sweeps -between northern Cuba and southern Florida. This picturesque sheet of -water reaches back into the land some six or eight miles, and although -not noted for its depth, nevertheless furnishes safe anchorage for the -fleet of tramp steamers found there during the larger part of the year, -loading sugar from the many centrals scattered throughout the Province -of Matanzas. Into this harbor, from the west, opens the Yumuri gorge, -through which runs the river whose waters in ages past carved out the -famous valley of the Yumuri, whose beauty was extolled by Alexander Von -Humboldt during his travels in the western world. Covering the western -shores of the bay, that slope down from the top of the hills to the -water’s edge, lies the city of Matanzas, while off to the east and south -may be seen great fields of sugar cane and henequen, that form two of -the important industries of the Province. - -Forty miles further east we find the beautiful landlocked bay of -Cardenas, whose northwestern shore is formed by a long sandy strip of -land extending in a curve out into the sea and known as the Punta de -Hicacos. Cardenas Bay is some thirty miles in length from east to west, -by ten or twelve from north to south, and is protected from the outside -sea by a chain of small keys or islands, through which a deep ship -channel was dredged during the first decade of this century. This -furnishes entrance to one of the largest sugar exporting points of Cuba, -the City of Cardenas. - -East of the harbor of Cardenas lies Santa Clara Bay, also protected by -outlying keys, but without deep water anchorage. These island dotted -bays, separated from each other only by islands, and connected by -comparatively shallow channels, extend from Punta Hicacos, some 300 -miles eastward, to the Harbor of Nuevitas. - -Seventy-five miles east of Cardenas we find the bay of Sagua, very -similar to the others, and with a depth not exceeding twelve or fifteen -feet. This harbor is located on the northern shore of the Province of -Santa Clara, and its port, Isabela de Sagua, is the shipping point for a -large amount of the sugar produced along the north coast of the -province. The rivers emptying into the bay of Sagua, as well as the bay -itself, are noted for their splendid fishing ground, tarpon being -especially abundant; also for the small delightfully flavored native -oyster. - -Still further east we have another important shipping port known as -Caibarien, located on Buena Vista Bay, that unfortunately has an average -depth of only 12 or 15 feet, necessitating lighterage out to the -anchorage at Cayo Frances, 18 miles distant, where ships of the deepest -draft find perfect protection while loading. - -On the north shore of the Province of Camaguey we have but one harbor of -the first order, the Bay of Nuevitas, but this harbor may easily lay -claim to being one of the best in the world. Its entrance is narrow, -resembling a river, some six miles in length and with a rather swift -running current, depending upon the flow of tide, as it passes in or -out. The Bay itself is a beautiful sheet of water of circular form, with -an extension of deep water reaching out towards the west some 15 miles, -and connected with the Bay of Carabelas, Guajaba and Guanaja, forty or -fifty miles further west. Along these quiet landlocked lagoons are -located the American colonies of La Gloria, Columbia, Punta Pelota and -Guanaja. - -There are many reasons for believing that the entrance to this harbor -was the place where Columbus spent several days scraping and cleaning -the bottom of his caravels, while a few of his companions made a journey -into the interior, finding very agreeable natives but no indications of -gold. From Nuevitas is shipped nearly all of the sugar made in the -Province of Camaguey, together with a great deal of fine hardwood, cut -in the Sierra de Cubitas Mountains. - -The north shore railroad, beginning at Caibarien some 300 kilometers -distant, has its eastern terminus on Nuevitas Bay, and will, when -completed, greatly increase the trade of splendid sugar and vegetable -land, as well as the mining zone, rich in iron and chrome, that lies -just south of the Sierras. - -Thirty miles further east we have the harbor of Manati, with a narrow -but comparatively deep and easy entrance, which soon opens out into the -usual long pouch shaped bay, on the shore of which are the sugar mills -of Manati. This harbor, although not ranked among the largest, -nevertheless can accommodate a large fleet of merchant ships or tramp -steamers waiting for their cargoes of sugar and hardwood timber. - -Malageta, some ten miles east of Manati, cannot be properly ranked as a -harbor of the first class, although it furnishes protection for vessels -of moderate draft. - -Puerto Padre, 20 miles east of Manati, is another large pouch-shaped -deep water harbor like nearly all those of the north coast, and owing to -the location on its southern shore of two of the largest sugar mills in -the world, Chaparra and Las Delicias, with a combined production of over -a million bags a year, it may be justly ranked as one of the most -important harbors of Oriente. - -Fifty miles further east we have the open roadstead of Gibara, a deep -indentation of the sea that gives, unfortunately, but little protection -from northerly gales, but since Gibara is the exit for the rich Holguin -district of northern Oriente, its commerce is extensive. - -Sixty miles further east, after rounding Lucrecia Point, where the coast -for the first time faces due east, we have another fine deep water -harbor known as Banes, on whose shores is located a large sugar mill -known as “Boston,” with an annual output of 500,000 bags. - -Some ten miles southeast of Banes we enter the Bay of Nipe, the largest -landlocked harbor in Cuba. Nipe is a beautiful sheet of water, whose -southern and western shores are low, although mountains can be seen in -the distance in almost any direction. Nipe contains forty square miles -of deep water anchorage, with a width from east to west of twelve miles -and from north to south of seven to eight miles. The Mayari River, one -of the most important streams of the north coast of Oriente Province, -empties into Nipe. On the north shore of the bay the little town of -Antilla forms the northeastern terminus of the Cuba Company’s railroad, -connecting Orient with Havana and the western end of the Island. The -land surrounding the bay is exceptionally rich and is owned largely by -the United Fruit Company. Here they originally cultivated large fields -of bananas, but owing to their extensive plantations in Costa Rica, and -to the high price of sugar brought about by the war, their Cuban -properties have been converted into sugar plantations. The splendid -mills of Preston are located on Nipe Bay, from which a half million -bags of sugar are shipped every year to the outside world. The rich -mines of the Mayari district belonging to the Bethlehem Steel Company -are located back of Nipe Harbor and contribute considerably to the -commerce of this port. - -Some five or six miles east of the entrance of Nipe we have the deep -double harbors of Cabonico and Levisa; the latter large and circular in -form, while Cabonico is comparatively small, and separated from Levisa -by a narrow peninsula that extends almost into the single entrance of -the two bays. The lands around this harbor are largely covered with -forests of magnificent hard woods, while the soil is rich enough to -produce cane for a quarter of a century or longer without replanting. - -Some 15 miles further east we have another fine large bay with a narrow -entrance on the Atlantic, known as Sagua de Tanamo. This bay is very -irregular in form, with many ramifications or branches reaching out -towards the east, south and west, while into it flows the Tanamo River, -draining the forest covered valleys and basins that lie between the -mountains of eastern Oriente and the north shore. - -Baracoa, an open roadstead, celebrated owing to the fact that here the -Spanish conquerors made their first settlement in the Pearl of the -Antilles in 1512, is a very picturesque bay, but unfortunately with -almost no protection from northerly winds that prevail during the winter -months. Cocoanuts form the chief article of export from Baracoa, which -is the last port of any note on the north coast of Cuba. - -Although the south coast of Cuba contains some of the finest harbors in -the world, Dame Nature was not quite so generous with her commercial -gateways along the Caribbean as along the shores bordering on the -Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico. Some 85 miles west of Cape Maisi we -come to the Bay of Guantanamo, a long, deep indentation from the -Caribbean, extending ten or twelve miles straight up into the land, and -in its upper extension opening out into quite a wide sheet of water. -Guantanamo is deep, well protected, and of sufficient area to furnish -excellent anchorage for the navy of the United States. That which for -naval purposes gives Guantanamo especial strategic value is the fact -that its mouth, free from obstructions, is so wide that three -first-class battleships can leave or enter at full speed, without danger -of collision or interference, either with each other or with the -inclosing shores. This feature of the bay, which is not often found in -well protected harbors, together with the fact that it practically -commands the Caribbean Sea, and lies almost in a direct line between the -Atlantic Coast and the Panama Canal, were the reasons why Guantanamo was -selected in preference to all other bays as the United Naval Station in -the Republic of Cuba. During the last ten years many improvements have -taken place in Guantanamo and today its importance is not excelled by -that of any other naval station in the Western Hemisphere. The -Guantanamo Valley, one of the richest in the Island, furnishes a large -amount of cane that supplies seven or eight sugar mills located a little -back from the shore of the Bay. - -Fifty miles further west, near the center of the southern coast of -Oriente, the pent up streams and basins of the geological past have -broken through the chain of mountains bordering the Caribbean and by -erosion have formed one of the finest and most picturesque harbors in -the world. The Morro of Santiago stands on a high promontory at the -eastern entrance of its narrow mouth, passing through which the Bay -rapidly opens up into a charming panorama of palm covered islands, -strips of white beach, and distant mountains, that combine to render -Santiago one of the most beautiful harbors in the world. The City of -Santiago lies on a side hill sloping down to the water’s edge, and owing -to the fact of its being the southeastern terminus of the Cuba Company’s -lines, which connect it with Havana, and to the natural wealth of the -Province of Oriente itself, of which Santiago is the chief commercial -city, it has no rival in the Republic outside of Havana. Several lines -of steamers connect Santiago, not only with the Atlantic and Gulf ports -of the United States, but also with Jamaica, Porto Rico, Panama and -Europe. - -Manzanillo, located on the west coast of Oriente, at the head of the -Gulf of Guacanabo, is the most important harbor in that section of the -province, and owing to the rich country lying back of it, whence are -shipped not only sugar, but hardwoods, hides and minerals, Manzanillo -Harbor is one of the most important in the eastern end of the Island. -Between this and Cienfuegos, which is the most important port on the -south coast of central Cuba, we have a stretch of several hundred miles -in which only harbors of the second order are found. - -Cienfuegos, or a “Hundred Fires,” is another of those beautiful, storm -protected inland pockets, with a narrow river-like channel connecting it -with the Caribbean. An old time 17th century fort nestles on the western -shore of the entrance, an interesting reminder of the days in which -every city and every harbor had to protect itself from the incursions of -privateers and pirates. Cienfuegos Bay extends from southeast to -northwest a distance of about fifteen miles, with a varying width of -from three to seven miles. The bay is dotted with charming islands, many -of which have been converted into delightful homes and tropical gardens, -where the wealthy people of the city pass most of their time in summer. -The city itself lies on the northern shore and is comparatively modern, -with wide streets and sidewalks. Good wharves and spacious warehouses -line the shores of the commercial part of the city. Cienfuegos is the -main gateway, not only for the sugar of southern Santa Clara but for the -whole southern coast of the central part of the Republic. Its commerce -ranks next to that of Santiago de Cuba, and the bay itself is one of the -most interesting in the Island. - -Further west, towards Cape San Antonio, while we have many -comparatively shallow harbors and embarcaderos or shipping points for -coasting vessels and those of light draft, there are no other deep -harbors aside from that of the Bay of Cochinos, or Pig Gulf, which is -really an indentation of the coast line, extending from the Caribbean up -into the land some fifteen miles, with a width of 10 or 12 miles at its -mouth, gradually tapering towards the north, but furnishing no -protection from southerly gales. - -On either side of this bay are located low lands and swamps including -those of the Cienaga de Zapata, most of which will never be cultivated -unless drained. Extensive forests of hardwood timber surround the bay in -all directions. Several big drainage propositions have been projected at -different times but none, up to the present, have been carried into -execution. - -Batabano, almost due south of Havana, is quite a shipping point, -receiving fish, sponge and charcoal from the shallow waters and low -forests along the south coast of Havana Province and Pinar del Rio. -Fruit and vegetables are landed here from the Isle of Pines, but owing -to the shallow waters of the bay and its utter lack of protection from -any direction but the north, it can hardly be considered a harbor. - -Of harbors of the second order, Cuba has some twenty on the north coast, -most of which have depths varying from 10 to 15 feet, although a few may -be found difficult of entrance at low tide for boats drawing over ten -feet. Beginning on the northwest coast of Pinar del Rio, near Cape San -Antonio, we have El Cajon, Guardiana Bay, and moving northward, -Pinatillo, Mantua, Dimas and San Cayetano. At all of these with the -exception of the first, the light draft coasting steamers of the -Menendez Line stop every five days in their trips around the western end -of the Island, between Habana and Cienfuegos on the south coast. Santa -Lucia, a few miles west of San Cayetano, is used as the shipping port -for copper from the Matahambre Mines. The ore, however, is conveyed in -lighters across the bay and transferred to steamers near Cayo Jutias. - -East of Havana, about half way to Matanzas, we have the embarcadero of -Santa Cruz, from which many vegetables, especially onions, are shipped -to Havana. Still further east, on the outer island shore is a harbor of -the second order near Paredon Grande, carrying twelve feet, and used -largely by fishermen and turtlers in stormy weather. Between Cayo -Confitas and Cayo Verde, there is a wide break in the barrier reef that -permits vessels in distress to find protection during periods of storm. -Some thirty miles west of Nuevitas is another break in the barrier reef -over which schooners drawing not more than seven or eight feet can find -shelter in the Bay of Guajaba. This is the deepest water approach to the -American colony of La Gloria. A little blasting would improve it. - -Nuevas Grandes, located midway between Nuevitas and Manati, on the coast -of Camaguey, is not easy of entrance in bad weather owing to surf -breaking on the outlying reefs, nor is the country back of it -sufficiently productive to give promise of much commerce in the future. - -On the north coast of Oriente we have a number of comparatively shallow -harbors, some of which furnish very good protection for vessels in bad -weather. The more important of these are Puerto Vita, Puerto Sama, -Tanamo and Puerto Naranjo. - -Along the south coast of Oriente we have Imias Sabana la Mar, Puerto -Escondido, Playa de Cuyuco and Daiquiri which, with the exception of the -latter, from which the Daiquiri iron mines ship their ore, have -practically no commerce. - -West of Santiago, on the same coast, are the little landing places of -Dos Rios, Cotibar, Turquino and Mota. Between the last two, however, we -have a fairly good harbor known as Portillo, that furnishes ample -protection for vessels drawing not more than 15 feet, and is the -shipping point for the output of the sugar estates that surround -Portillo Bay. - -Between Cabo Cruz and Manzanillo are the embarcaderos of Nequiro, Media -Luna, Ceiba Hueca and Campechuela, from nearly all of which a -considerable amount of sugar is shipped during the season. - -North of Manzanillo, and extending west along the coast of Camaguey and -Santa Clara, we have the shallow harbors of Romero, Santa Cruz del Sur, -Jucaro, Tunas de Zaza and Casilda. The southern coast steamers stop at -each of these ports, and quite a large amount of sugar and hardwood is -shipped from them. - -From Cienfuegos west we have the Bahia de Cochinos and Batabano already -mentioned, together with La Paloma, Punta de Cartas, Bay of Cortes and -the Gulf of Corrientes, all of which are located along the south shore -of Pinar del Rio, and have quite an extensive local trade in charcoal, -fish and hardwood. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII - -RAILROAD SYSTEMS IN CUBA - - -Somewhat strange to relate, railroad building, insofar as it applied to -Spanish territory, had its inception in Cuba, at a time when the Island -was one of Spain’s colonial possessions. A few rich planters owning -large properties at Guines, an exceptionally fertile district some forty -miles from the capital, had kept in touch with experiments in railroad -building and steam locomotives, as a new source of power in the -commercial world, and for the purpose of trying out the practicability -of this new means of transportation bought a steam railway locomotive, -together with the necessary rails and equipment, for use in transporting -sugar cane and other produce from one point to another on their own -plantations. Besides this, the Nuevitas-Puerto Principe Railroad was the -first public service steam railroad ever built on Spanish soil. - -What is known as the United Railways of Havana may justly claim to be -the father of public railway transportation in the Island, since the -founders of the Company took advantage of the railway nucleus at Guines, -and gradually extended the line through various private properties until -it reached the city of Havana, while branches and connections were -thrown out in other directions. With the consent of the Colonial -Government, the entire property was later acquired at auction by an -English Company and began business as the United Railways of Havana. - -In 1886 the Company took over another short line known as the Alfonso -XII Railroad, that had been built three years before. After various -fusions and transfers, these properties were combined in one, with an -initial capital of $16,875,196. The complete system of wharves and -warehouses at Regla passed into the possession of the Company at the -same time. Afterwards the short line connecting the city of Havana with -the suburb of Marianao was absorbed, followed later by the taking over -of the Cardenas and Jucaro Line. - -In 1906 the Matanzas Railway was brought into the corporation, giving it -at that time a combined length of 1127 kilometers, most of which was -included in the Provinces of Havana and Matanzas. Later the United -Railways were extended into the Province of Santa Clara as far east as -La Esperanza, making in the year 1903, over the Cuban Central Railway, -the much-desired connection with the Cuba Railroad to Santiago de Cuba -and the Bay of Nipe. In 1907 the Western Railway of Havana, connecting -the capital with Pinar del Rio, and the still further extension westward -to the town of Guane, were brought under the control of the United -Railways. - -From Guane north and east a new North Shore Road for Pinar del Rio has -been projected, which will circle around the western end of the Organ -Mountains passing through the towns of Mantua, Dimas and La Esperanza, -paralleling the Gulf Coast of the Province of Pinar del Rio until it -reaches Bahia Honda, where it will connect with the western extension of -the Havana Central now terminating at Guanajay. This projected line, -which has been approved by Congress and the Railroad Commission, will -pass through a comparatively undeveloped section of the Island, whose -rich mineral zones and fertile agricultural lands between Bahia Honda -and Guanajay have long suffered for lack of transportation. A very -substantial subsidy which will materially assist in the construction of -the road, may be considered as a guarantee of its early completion. - -[Illustration: GRAND CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, HAVANA - -The city of Havana is not only the chief port but also the chief -railroad centre of Cuba, from which radiate trunk lines running east, -west and south, to all parts of the island, besides, of course, numerous -short suburban lines. Since the establishment of the Cuban Republic, by -mutually advantageous arrangement between the Government and the -companies, a general terminal for all these roads has been provided in a -handsome and commodious building conveniently placed adjacent to the -water front.] - -The new electric lines connecting Havana with Guanajay in the west, and -Guines towards the southeast, were joined to the United Railways, -and a magnificent railway terminal was built on the old Arsenal grounds, -acquired from the Government. This is a splendid modern four-story -building of brick, stone and steel, with two artistic towers reaching a -height of 125 feet, making it one of the most imposing edifices in the -City. From this station trains arrive and depart for every part of the -Island. - -The combined mileage at present operating under the control of the -United Railways of Havana is 1,609 kilometers or 963 miles. - -From the viewpoint of commercial progress and utility it may be safely -stated that Sir William Van Horne, by building the much needed -connecting link of railroad between the eastern terminus of the United -Railways at Santa Clara and the two terminals of the Cuba Company’s road -at Antilla on the north coast, and Santiago de Cuba on the south, -conferred on this Island a greater benefit than any other one man in -that realm of affairs. - -Immediately after the American occupation of the Island, Sir William Van -Horne visited Cuba, en route to Demarara, British Guiana, and got only -as far as Cienfuegos, Cuba. He later rode over the rich country lying -between Santa Clara and the city of Santiago de Cuba, and in his fertile -brain was promptly visualized a line of railroad passing through the -center of the three eastern and largest provinces of the Island, and -terminating on the shore of the two finest bays of Oriente, connecting -this by rail with the west portion of Cuba. The Foraker Resolutions -prohibited the securing of a franchise for the building of such a -railroad, and but little encouragement was given Sir William Van Horne, -while a number of obstacles were presented, including difficulties in -securing right of way for the proposed railroad, without the right of -condemnation. Owners of properties that were practically inaccessible, -and whose products could not be exported except at great cost, were -seemingly blind to the advantages that would accrue to them from the -construction of such a line. This big-brained pioneer, however, who had -only recently built the Canadian Pacific across the plains and mountains -of the North American Continent, did not hesitate a moment in -undertaking and carrying out his project of connecting the capital of -Cuba with the rich and undeveloped territory lying to the eastward. -Where right of way was not granted willingly he bought the properties -outright, and built his railroad practically over his own farms and -fields, with but little local assistance and no land grants of any kind. - -The Cuba Company’s line, including the branches contributary to it and -under its direction, measures 717 miles. The main line begins at Santa -Clara and passes through Placetas del Sur, Zaza del Medio, Ciego de -Avila, Camaguey, Marti, Victoria de las Tunas, Cacocum, Alto Cedro and -San Luis, to Santiago de Cuba, a distance of 573 kilometers. From Alto -Cedro a line was built north to Antilla, 50 kilometers distant on Nipe -Bay, whence the greater portion of the freight destined for northern -markets is shipped directly to New York. - -Of the numerous branch lines, beginning in the west, may be mentioned -two that leave Placetas del Sur, one extending north to Placetas and -through connections to the harbor of Caibarien; the other, built in a -southerly direction, to the city of Trinidad on the south coast. From -Zaza del Medio, in the Province of Santa Clara, a branch extends almost -due south to Sancti Spiritus, and thence, through connections with the -Sancti Spiritus Railroad to Zaza on the shore of the Caribbean. At Ciego -de Avila, the Cuba Company’s road is crossed by what is known as the -Jucaro & Moron Road, built many years ago as a military line through the -center of the trocha, or barrier, intended to prevent insurrectionary -troops passing from Camaguey into the western part of the Island. This -short stretch of railway connects San Fernando on the north coast with -Jucaro on the Caribbean. - -At Camaguey, the old Camaguey and Nuevitas Road during many years had -enjoyed a monopoly in the transportation of products to the coast. The -Cuba Company absorbed and incorporated the road, securing thus a -valuable adjunct to its system. The Bay of Nuevitas was not of -sufficient depth to permit large vessels loading at the old wharves, so -the Cuba Company extended the road five kilometers to Punta de -Pastelillo, where sugar warehouses and wharves have been built, so that -sugar from all the mills of central Camaguey can be delivered aboard -ship, doing away with the old system of lightering out to deep water. - -From Marti, 60 kilometers east of Camaguey on the main line, a -southeastern extension was built across country to the City of Bayamo, -in the southwestern center of the Province of Oriente, 127 kilometers -distant. Another branch built from Manzanillo on the west coast of -Bayamo, 56 kilometers in length, opened up a section of country -previously inaccessible. From Bayamo a road parallel to the main line -has been built east to San Luis, 98 kilometers, furnishing an exit for -one of the richest sections of the Cauto Valley, and also for the rich -mineral zones that lie on the southern slope of the Sierra Maestra -Mountains. This line from Marti to San Luis passes through one -continuous stretch of sugar cane fields, extending as far as the eye can -reach, north and south, throughout its entire length. - -From Cacocum a short line of 18 kilometers extends north to Holguin. Up -to the completion of this connecting link, the city of Holguin, in north -central Oriente, had been connected with the outside world only through -the medium of a short road terminating at Gibara on the Atlantic coast, -where coasting steamers stopped weekly. - -A branch from Placetas del Sur to Casilda, 90 kilometers, is in process -of construction. Another will connect the city of Camaguey with Santa -Cruz del Sur on the Caribbean, 98 kilometers away. At San Luis -connection is made with the Guantanamo & Western Railway, where -passengers for the United States Naval Station on Guantanamo Bay, and -the rich sugar districts lying north and west of the harbor, are -transferred. - -The Cuba system is equipped with 156 locomotives, 125 passenger coaches, -5013 freight cars, 70 baggage cars and 131 construction cars. In the -harbors of Antilla and Nuevitas twelve steamers, tugs and launches are -employed in making the various necessary transfers of material from one -point to another. On the lines of the Cuba system and its branches are -30 sugar estates and mills, with nine new ones under construction. Daily -trains connecting Havana with Santiago de Cuba leave the terminal -station at 10.00 P.M., making the trip in about 24 hours. - -With the completion of the Cuba Company’s lines, the interior of the -Provinces of Oriente, Camaguey and much of Santa Clara were opened up to -the commerce of the world for the first time. During the years that have -elapsed since its completion, a large amount of valuable hard wood, -cedar, mahogany, etc., growing along the line, have been cut and shipped -to nearby seaports for export to the United States and other countries. -With the building of this line, too, some of the richest lands of Cuba -were rendered available for the production of sugar, and today a vast -area is under cultivation in cane, and four hundred thousand tons or -more of sugar, with the assistance of this road, was delivered each year -to the Allies who were fighting in France and Belgium. Thus Sir William -Van Home’s foresight enabled the Republic of Cuba to “do its bit” in a -very practical way towards the furtherance of the cause of universal -democracy. - -No account of the Cuba Railroad would, however, be complete which failed -to make mention of the part played in its construction and initial -organization by Mr. R. G. Ward, of New York City, whose energy and -industry, first as manager of construction and later as manager of -operation, combined with the character of the men by whom he surrounded -himself are generally recognized as having been potent if not dominant -factors in determining the rapidity with which the original main line of -that railroad, extending from Santa Clara to Santiago, was built, and -the promptness and thoroughness with which it was put into operation. -The importance of this achievement is emphasized, when it is taken into -consideration that the entire line was located and built without the -right of eminent domain, which necessitated the acquisition of -practically the whole of the right of way through private negotiation. -It is stated that the cross-ties and rails were placed by track-laying -machines of his devising, which, with crews of less than one hundred -men, could, and often did, lay down three miles of full-tied, -full-spiked and full-bolted track per day per machine. He also is -credited with having inaugurated the policy of employing Cubans or -residents of Cuba, whenever it was possible to obtain them to do the -work required. Rather than import telegraph operators needed to run the -newly constructed railroad, he opened and operated, free of all cost or -expense to the students, a School of Telegraphy, under the direction of -Horace H. McGinty, through whose administration nearly one hundred -operators were qualified for positions in less than six months. Sir -William Van Horne, who himself was an expert railroad telegraph -operator, regarded this as a “marvelous achievement, creditable alike to -Mr. Ward, to Mr. McGinty, and to the character and capacity of the young -Cuban students;” many of whom have since held good positions in Cuba, in -Mexico and in the Argentine Republic. - -The Cuba Central Road of the Province of Santa Clara occupies third -place in commercial importance among Cuba’s system of railroads. This -Company’s lines were built largely for the benefit of the older sugar -estates of Santa Clara, located around Sagua la Grande, Remedios, -Caribarien, Cienfuentes, Isabel de las Lajas, etc. The main line of the -Cuba Central extends from Isabel de Sagua, a port on the north coast, -almost due north to Cruces, a junction on the Cuba Road midway between -Santa Clara and Cienfuegos. - -Another important division of the line runs from Sagua east to the -seaport of Caibarien, passing through Camajuani and Remedios. The Cuba -Central lines, while public highways in every sense of the word, may be -classed among the roads dedicated largely to the service of the sugar -planters of Santa Clara. - -Among the independent projected lines of Cuba, the North Shore Road, at -present under construction at several different points in the Provinces -of Camaguey and Santa Clara, is one of marked importance. This road has -its western terminal at Caibarien, on the north shore of Santa Clara, -whence it extends eastward, passing through an exceptionally rich valley -that furnishes cane to some half-dozen large sugar mills, and continues -eastward through Moron, in the Province of Camaguey. It parallels the -north coast, extending eastward across the rich grazing lands of the -Caunao River, and stretching out further eastward, traverses the virgin -forests that lie between the Sierra de Cubitas and the Bays of Guanaja -and Guajaba. Leaving the Cubitas slope, it crosses the Maximo and -eventually reaches deep water anchorage on the shores of the western -extension of Nuevitas Harbor. - -This line is at present under construction from Nuevitas westward and -from Moron both east and west. In the winter of 1918-19 the line was -finished from the deep water terminal on Nuevitas Harbor as far west as -the Maximo River. When completed it will pass through one of the richest -agricultural and mineral sections of the Island. - -From the crossing of the Maximo a branch line is being built around the -eastern end of the Sierra de Cubitas in order to tap the rich Cubitas -iron mines, whose deposits are waiting only transportation in order to -contribute a large share of wealth to the prosperity of the Republic. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII - -MONEY AND BANKING - - -A perusal of Cuban history shows that within a few years after the -country was settled, questions in regard to the exchange value of its -moneys arose, which were not effectually resolved till the lapse of -nearly four centuries later, upon the establishment of the Cuban -Republic. - -As with the other early Spanish colonies of the New World, the -circulating medium was at first solely metallic. A credit currency was -not suited to a primitive country, whose foreign trade was largely -clandestine, open to piracy and other perils, its lawful commerce being -limited to the port of Cadiz, Spain, under the monopoly of a board of -trade known as the “Contratacion de las Indias,” succeeded in 1740 by -the “Real Compania de la Habana,” till the English occupation in 1762. - -The position of Cuba on the highroad between Europe and Latin America -made its harbors the Mecca of the Spanish fleets of those days. The gold -and silver mines of Mexico and South America poured their millions into -the Island after the year 1545, when the deposits of San Luis Potosi -were opened to the world, the volume of the output being brought to -Havana before distribution to Europe and other parts. - -Instead of ships making the transatlantic journey alone as at present, -large merchant fleets, laden with immense treasure, were convoyed by war -vessels at long intervals, as a safeguard against filibusters and -buccaneers as well as to preclude possible competition. - -In 1550 a monetary crisis occurred in Havana, owing to the failure of -the governor, Dr. Gonzalo Perez de Angulo, to enforce the provision of -the Spanish law, that the silver Real should be estimated at 34 -maravedis, instead of 40 to 44, the commercial rate prevailing at Vera -Cruz, Santo Domingo, Cartagena de las Indias and other points near the -silver mines. The governor, actuated by private interests, claimed that -conditions in Cuba justified the same rate as in these places, and that -the legal rate of 34 to 1, if applied, would drain the country of its -silver stock. - -These views were also expressed by travellers going from Mexico to -Spain, who were obliged to make a long stoppage in Havana, where their -money was exchanged, insisting that they should receive the larger or -commercial rate for their silver as in other places. - -Not disposed to change his attitude in the matter, the Spanish King -issued a royal circular reasserting the legal rate of 34 to 1 for Cuba, -under a penalty of 100,000 maravedis, instead of 10,000 as fixed in his -former order, for each violation. - -The sovereign mandate was complied with, as peace and policy required, -but this demand for a higher valuation of money in Cuba than in the -mother country is taken as the origin of the premium afterwards placed -on Spanish coin, with which the people of later times are familiar. - -When in the year 1779 the Spanish gold onza was coined, its par value -was estimated at 16 pesos in Spain. But in Cuba it was shortly -afterwards taken to represent 17 pesos, or a premium of about 6%, which -it continued to hold until the repatriation of Spanish money a few years -ago. This premium was expected to keep gold in the country, at an excess -valuation, along with the annual output of $800,000 in silver coming -from Mexico, sugar and tobacco being exported from Cuba to North America -and Europe as an offset thereto. - -[Illustration: LEOPOLDO CANCIO - -Born at Sancti Spiritus on May 30. 1851, Leopoldo Cancio y Luna rose to -eminence as a jurist, economist and financier; and for many years has -filled the chair of Economics and Finance in the University of Havana. -As one of the founders of the Autonomist party he became a Deputy in the -Spanish Cortes after the Ten Years’ War. Under the Governorship of -General Brooke he was Assistant Secretary and under General Leonard Wood -he was Secretary of Finance, an office which he now fills in the Cabinet -of President Menocal. He was the author of the great monetary reforms of -1914.] - -When the modern Spanish centen or alfonsino, and the French Louis or 20 -franc gold piece, came into vogue, they were also admitted to Cuba at -the same ratio as the onza, namely a 6% premium or 17 to 18 -approximately, to the detriment of Cuban industry and commerce, -throughout the course of the nineteenth century. - -In the year 1868 Spain passed from a silver to a double standard, -adopting the peseta as the monetary unit, equal in weight and fineness -to the French franc and that of other countries of the Latin Union, -composed of France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland and Greece by the -monetary conventions of 1865 and 1868. The Isabellan silver escudo, -adopted in Spain as the unit by the law of June 24, 1864, was thereby -demonetized. - -But the Spanish peseta, consisting of gold or silver indifferently, -while circulating freely in Cuba along with French gold and American -currency in recent times till 1915, did not become the unit of value in -the Island. The Spanish gold dollar (peso oro Espanol), an imaginary -coin equal to five Spanish gold pesetas (of 24.8903 grains of pure gold -each) considered at a premium of 106, weighing 21.13 grains of fine gold -(as a result of the 6% premium), and circulating in the form of current -Spanish or French gold pieces, was taken as the standard. By reason of -such premium these coins were received in the country at $5.30 oro -espanol for the centen (25 peseta gold piece) and $4.24 oro espanol for -the Louis and doblon (25 franc and 25 peseta gold pieces of equal weight -and fineness), which values they held till the last of Spanish money -circulation in the Island. - -The use of Colonial paper money in Cuba, during the wars with the -Spanish government, did not substantially lessen the demand for actual -coin, and it was not until after the Spanish-American War of 1898 that -new conditions arose which afforded credit and security for the -introduction of a composite system of currency. - -When the American government was established at Santiago in 1898, one of -its first acts was to stabilize the currency of the eastern part of the -Island. United States money was forthwith adopted as the lawful medium -and Spanish silver was eliminated accordingly. In the provinces of -Havana, Pinar del Rio, Matanzas and Santa Clara, Spanish gold and silver -continued in use, along with French gold and U. S. currency, at varying -market quotations from day to day, until the adoption of a national -standard by the Cuban Congress under the law of October 29, 1914, by -virtue of which the Cuban gold peso, of weight and fineness similar to -the American dollar, was declared the unit, and United States money a -legal tender. - -Under the authority of the Secretary of Finance, Spanish and other -moneys were shipped abroad from Cuba as follows - - _Fiscal Year 1914-1915_ (ending June 30th): - United States $3,032,529.00 - Spain 1,435,192.00 - Canary Islands 66,000.00 $4,533,721.00 - - _Fiscal Year 1915-1916_: - United States 17,337,734.00 - Spain 17,411,003.00 - France 60,000.00 - Canary Islands 38,300.00 34,847,037.00 - - _Fiscal Year 1916-1917_: - United States 317,253.00 - Spain 24,332,707.00 - Mexico 45,000.00 - Canary Islands 13,240.00 24,708,200.00 - - Total, reduced to U. S. Currency $64,088,958.00 - -Of the above shipments, those to the United States were principally for -recoinage to Cuban gold of the new issue and were brought back later in -national coin. They also include $5,934,810.00 Spanish silver (value in -U.S. currency) sent to Spain between August, 1915, and June, 1917. This -delicate operation was affected gradually and in such a manner as not to -disturb the monetary or exchange values of the country. By June 1, 1916, -all conversions of accounts had been practically made to the new system. - -As a result of the new monetary law and its regulations, the entire -supply of Cuban money was minted at Philadelphia, through the medium of -the National Bank of Cuba, the Government Fiscal Agents, in the -following quantities: - - Gold Coins: $20 pieces $1,135,000 - 10 pieces 12,635,000 - 5 pieces 9,140,000 - 4 pieces 540,000 - 2 pieces 320,000 - 1 pieces 17,250 $23,787,250 - ---------- - Silver Coins: $1 pieces 2,819,000 - 40¢ pieces 1,128,000 - 20¢ pieces 2,090,000 - 10¢ pieces 625,000 6,662,000 - --------- - Nickel Coins: 5¢ pieces 340,450 - 2¢ pieces 228,210 - 1¢ pieces 187,120 755,780 - -------- - Total Coinage $31,205,030 - -The above national supply of coin, together with perhaps twice the same -amount of U. S. currency in general circulation, has been found -sufficient for the country’s normal needs, and Cuba thereby -automatically becomes, in law and in fact, a part of the American -monetary system of the present day. - -As the country exports the bulk of its products and imports most -articles of consumption and use, including machinery and implements, it -follows that Cuba is in normal times one of the highest priced countries -of the world, and under conditions due to the European War the cost of -living is enormous. - -To move the country’s resources annually requires the use of millions of -dollars from abroad, which the banks obtain and circulate in legal -tender (which means United States money and Cuban coin) according to -local demands. - -It follows, therefore, that the chief functions of banking in Cuba are -Discount, Deposit, Exchange, Collections, Collateral Loans, Foreign -Credits and the distribution of money throughout the country. - -The principal banks serving the financial needs of Cuba are the -following: - -The National City Bank of New York. Capital, $25,000,000. - -Banco Español de la Isla de Cuba. Capital, $8,000,000. - -Banco National de Cuba. Capital, $6,860,455. - -Banco Territorial de Cuba. Capital, $5,000,000. - -Royal Bank of Canada. Capital and surplus, $25,000,000. - -The Trust Company of Cuba. Capital, $500,000. - -Banco Mercantile Americano de Cuba. Capital, $2,000,000; surplus, -$500,000. - -Banco Prestatario de Cuba. Capital, $500,000. (Makes loans on personal -property, approved notes, mortgages, etc.) - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV - -PUBLIC INSTRUCTION - - -Thinking men and women, the world over, realize that the hope, security -and well being of the future lies in properly educating the children of -the present. From an educated community we have nothing to fear. -Mistakes in government policies may occur, but where intelligence -dwells, right and justice will soon prevail over wrong. Education to-day -is universally recognized as the most efficient and potent safeguard -against crime and lawlessness of all kind, and in no section of the -world is the need of general education more gravely manifest than in the -Latin-American Republics of the Western Hemisphere. - -Education in all of these countries, from the beginning of their -existence as colonies of Spain, has been, unfortunately under the -control of the Church, and with the exception of Cuba, largely so -remains to-day. Even in this progressive little Republic, the clerical -influence on tuition, from the kindergarten to the university, is more -or less prevalent. The influence of the priest and the prelate, exerted -in the home, usually through the mother, still casts its shadow over -true educational progress, especially among those of the gentler sex. -There are, of course, many well educated women in Cuba, but they are -women whose intellectual longings and aspirations could not be held in -check. - -True, some of the most brilliant men in Cuba have been pupils of church -institutions, but men of this stamp and minds of this calibre held from -birth all the promise and potency of greatness. Their intellectual -lights could not be hidden under the proverbial bushel. - -In 1896 the population of the Island was 1,572,791, of whom 1,400,884 -were unable to read, 33,003 knew how to read but not to write, while -19,158 had received the advantages of what was termed higher education. -Even this paucity of true knowledge was frequently superficial and sadly -warped by obsolete tradition. - -When, at the beginning of American intervention, that generous and able -group of American officers under General Wood took charge of affairs in -Cuba, the need of even a rudimentary education among the untutored -masses was painfully apparent. A report of conditions prevailing was -forwarded to Washington. Secretary Root referred the matter to President -Eliot of Harvard, and as a result Mr. Alexis E. Frye was sent to Havana -to establish in Cuba the American school system, or one as nearly like -that in vogue in the United States as conditions would permit. - -The selection of Mr. Frye was a wise one, and the people have never -ceased to be grateful for the admirable and unselfish efforts of that -remarkably clever teacher to place public instruction on a firm -foundation in Cuba. After going carefully over the ground and studying -the situation thoroughly Mr. Frye, working by candle light in a backroom -of the Hotel Pasaje, drafted the school law and wrote the rules and -regulations that today form the base of public instruction in the -island. Soon after, Mr. Frye was appointed Superintendent of Schools. -His salary was $400 a month, but every month’s pay check was divided -into eight parts and distributed among those schools where it would do -the most good. He would accept no recompense whatever for himself. - -In the work of establishing a modern system of education in Cuba Mr. -Frye received valuable aid from a remarkably gifted and brilliant young -Cuban named Lincoln de Zayas. Dr. de Zayas was a descendant of one of -the most prominent families in Havana. He had been educated in the -United States, was graduated from the school of medicine of Columbia -University in New York, was a master of some five or six languages, and -knew the character of his own people. He assisted Mr. Frye in solving -many delicate problems and in overcoming troublesome obstacles, many of -which resulted from the former ecclesiastical control of everything -pertaining to education. Dr. Francisco Barrero, a writer, student and -poet, was made assistant director of education. - -During the second year of American intervention, Mr. Frye interested -Harvard University in the subject of Cuban education. This finally -resulted in an invitation from that institution to a large body of -potential Cuban teachers to come to Boston and enjoy during the summer -months special instruction provided for them by the president and -faculty of the University. Through Mr. Frye’s efforts and those of -General Wood, then Military Governor of the Island, the Washington -government became interested in the school problem in Cuba, and through -the War Department furnished passage in one of the large American -transports for all teachers who cared to visit the United States in the -interest of Cuban education. Some 1600 teachers, mostly young ladies, -were selected from applicants in various parts of the Island, and -conveyed on the U.S. transport General McClellan to the city of Boston, -where they were comfortably lodged and cared for during a period of -three months as guests of Harvard University. - -The direct educational benefit derived by these young Cuban teachers was -almost incalculable. A great majority of them had no knowledge whatever -of the English language, and knew but little of the outside world. The -press of Cuba in those days was limited in its fund of general -information or other matter that might be of educational value to the -reading public. Nor had education, especially among women, been -encouraged during the days of Spain’s control over the island. - -The summer work at Harvard was a revelation. The educational seed fell -upon receptive soil, and the young teachers who were fortunate enough to -be selected as guests of that institution gave an excellent account of -themselves in work that followed during the early days of the Republic. -Incidentally Mr. Frye chose one of these young teachers as his companion -through life. After Mr. Frye’s departure, Lieut. Hanna, at the -suggestion of General Wood, made some changes and additions to the -public school system of Cuba, conforming it somewhat to the methods then -in vogue in the State of Ohio. - -With the installation of the Cuban Republic in 1902 public instruction -came directly under the supervision of the Central or Federal -Government, and the Secretary of Public Instruction was made a member of -the President’s Cabinet, adding thus dignity and importance to that -branch of work on which the character of succeeding generations -depended. Unfortunately for the cause of education it has been found -rather difficult to separate the Department of Public Instruction from a -certain amount of political interference, which has tended to mar its -efficiency and retard progress. - -With the beginning of the second Government of Intervention in 1906, Dr. -Lincoln de Zayas was made Secretary of Public Instruction under Governor -Magoon, and with his untiring devotion to the cause of true knowledge, -as well as his keen insight into the modern or more improved methods of -teaching, interest in public instruction in Cuba was greatly revived, -and English began to assume a far more important role in the primary and -grammar schools than in former days. - -The services of an excellent teacher, Miss Abbie Phillips, of -California, was secured as General Superintendent of English throughout -the Republic, and under her direction was formed a corps of remarkably -competent Cuban women, who accomplished much in a short time towards -making the study of English in the public schools more popular than it -had been. With the death of Dr. de Zayas the cause of public instruction -seemed again partially to relapse into its former desuetude. Yet in -spite of the misfortune that thus befell it, the work has proceeded more -satisfactorily than might have been expected, owing to the strong -desire on the part of the youth of the Republic to learn, and to shake -off the fetters that had previously kept them in a kind of a respectable -ignorance. - -During President Menocal’s administration the resignation of the -Secretary of Public Instruction gave opportunity for the selection and -appointment to that office of Dr. Dominguez Roldan, who has endeavored -to inject new life into the cause and to place this important branch of -the Government once more in a position that will command the respect, -not only of the people of Cuba, but also of the outside world. New -school houses, designed expressly for the purpose, are replacing the old -and inadequate buildings that were formerly rented. The study of -English, that had been discouraged by his predecessor, is being again -revived, and many steps in the cause of learning are being taken whose -wisdom will become evident in the near future. - -In 1913, when Mario G. Menocal assumed the direction of the Government -of Cuba, there were but 262 schools in the island, while to-day there -are 1136, showing an increase of 1074; with 335,291 pupils attending. No -fewer than 1746 teachers have been appointed and added to the Department -of Public Instruction in Cuba. In addition to this two night schools -have recently been established, one in Santiago de Cuba and one in -Bayamo. Four kindergartens, or “School Gardens,” as they are now termed, -have recently been established in the Province of Santa Clara. - -At the present time, throughout the Republic of Cuba, there is a total -of 5,685 teachers in the primary schools. Among these are included 116 -teachers who render special service throughout the different sections of -the country, 19 teachers of night schools, 118 teachers devoted to -school gardens, 40 teachers of cutting and sewing, 26 teachers of -English, 21 of Sloyd, and 4 teachers devoted to instruction in jails. In -1915 a normal school, co-educational, was established in each of five of -the Provinces. Havana has two normal schools, one for boys and the -other for girls. - -During the year 1918 a school of Domestic Economy, Arts and Sciences, -known as the “School of the Home,” was established. The object of this -school, as that of similar institutions, is to prepare the future wife -and mother so that she may be able to undertake in an intelligent manner -the direction of the home. Among the subjects taught are accounting, -domestic economy, moral and civic obligations, hygiene, the care of -infants and of the sick, cutting, sewing, dressmaking, basket-making, -and elementary physics and chemistry, which form the base of scientific -cooking. In addition to these, gardening, the care of animals, ordinary -and higher cooking are taught; also washing and ironing, dyeing, the -removing of stains, and the proper method of cleaning and taking care of -shoes. In order to make the school popular and to insure its success, a -society of patriotic and intelligent women has been formed, from which -much practical benefit is expected in the future. - -In order to provide for and to permit the scientific development both -physical and mental of the Cuban youth, the Department of Public -Instruction has established a separate institution, with an experimental -annex, for the purpose of studying the eccentricities and aptitudes of -Cuban children. - -The order of sequence of public instruction in Cuba, as previously -stated, has followed very largely that of the United States. The school -gardens are followed by primary and grammar schools, all suitably -graded, and the course of studies is more or less similar to that of the -United States. - -The Institute of Havana, located for many years in the old convent -building just back of the Governor General’s Palace, occupies a place -between the grammar school and the University. The course of studies and -scope of this institution is similar to the average high school of -America. New buildings are being erected for the accommodation of the -several thousand boys and girls who attend the institute, and with its -removal to more commodious and congenial quarters, this important seat -of learning will be reorganized with greatly increased efficiency. - -The National University of Havana was founded under the direction of -monks of the Dominican Order on January 5, 1728, and until the -installation of the Republic occupied the old convent that afterwards -served as the Institute. To-day the University of Havana can boast of -one of the most picturesque and delightful locations occupied by any -seat of learning in the world. It crowns the northeast corner of the -high plateau, overlooking the capital of the Republic from the west. Its -altitude is several hundred feet above the plain below, with the Gulf of -Mexico close by on the north and old Morro Castle standing at the -entrance of a beautiful harbor, that stretches out along the far eastern -horizon, sweeping afterwards toward the south. The city of Havana fills -the center of the picture, while in the immediate foreground nestle the -forests of the Botanical Gardens and the Quinto de los Molinos, or -summer residence of the former Spanish Governor Generals, with their -beautiful drives sweeping along the front and up to the crest of the -plateau. - -The broad stone staircase at the entrance to the grounds is quite in -keeping with the dignity of the place and the numerous buildings devoted -to various departments of learning are harmonious in design and -commodious in appointment. A giant laurel, with an expanse of shade that -would protect a small army of men, occupied the center of an old -courtyard that once belonged to the fortifications commanding the -Principe Heights. - -To these buildings will soon be added another to be known as the -National School of Languages, at a cost of $150,000. This edifice, -sumptuous in its appointments, will be dedicated largely to the -reciprocal study of Spanish and English. American students who wish to -perfect their knowledge of Spanish will be invited from the various -universities of the United States to visit Cuba, at stated periods of -the year, for the purpose of studying and improving their acquaintance -with this language through direct contact with the students and -professors of the University. The latter, on the other hand, will be -afforded an excellent opportunity to perfect their knowledge of English -by mingling with visiting students from the United States, and it is -believed that the result of acquaintances and friendships, formed in -this way, many of which will be sustained through life, will add greatly -to those bonds of friendship and mutual understanding that resulted from -America’s assistance to Cuba in her War for Independence, and that for a -thousand reasons should never be permitted to relapse or sink into -indifference. - -The national or public library of Cuba, located in the Maestranza, one -of the most substantial of those old buildings that have come down from -the days of Spanish dominion, was founded during the first American -intervention by General Leonard Wood, on October 18, 1901. It is open to -the public every day of the week except Sunday, from 8 to 11 in the -morning and from 1 to 5 in the afternoon, except Saturday, when access -may be secured at any time between 8 and 12 in the morning. - -The library contains at the present time about twenty thousand volumes. -This does not however include a great mass of pamphlets and unbound -manuscripts, documents, papers, etc., which form a valuable part of the -collection. These volumes are largely in Spanish, French and English, -and include all of the more important branches of human knowledge. Among -them may be found an excellent collection of the best encyclopedias and -dictionaries of those languages. - -Its collection of American History is extensive; in addition to which -may be mentioned a valuable collection of works on international law, -given by the eminent jurist Dr. Antonio S. de Bustamante, who -represented the Republic of Cuba at the Peace Conference in Paris at -the conclusion of the Great War. - -Among other gifts to the public library may be mentioned a series of -large, beautiful, artistic drawings in colors, that represent all that -is known of the Aztec and Toltec life existing in the Republic of Mexico -at the time of the Spanish Conquest in the early part of the 16th -century. These engravings have been drawn and colored with marvelous -care. They are assembled in the form of an atlas which permits close -study and makes one of the most interesting and valuable contributions -of this kind to be found in any part of the world. They were presented -to Cuba by General Porfirio Diaz, President of the Republic of Mexico. - -Arrangements have been made to catalogue the volumes of the library. For -this purpose experts have been secured and the space amplified, and when -this work is completed, while the library will not offer the luxurious -quarters of institutions of its kind in other countries, it will be -useful and accessible to those who wish to avail themselves of its -services. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXV - -OCEAN TRANSPORTATION - - -Transportation is the handmaid of production. Where transportation -facilities are faulty, exchange of commodities is necessarily restricted -to local demands, and commerce with the outside world is practically -impossible. Good harbors are among the first essentials to foreign -trade, and with deep, well protected bays, Cuba has been bountifully -supplied. Every sheltered indentation of her two thousand miles of coast -line, from the days of Colon, has been an invitation for passing ships -to enter. The wealth of the island in agriculture and mineral and forest -products, has made the visits of these ocean carriers profitable; hence -the phenomenal growth of Cuba’s foreign commerce. - -In spite of the stupid restriction of trade enforced by Spain in the -early colonial days, contraband commerce assumed large proportions -during the 17th century, and when England’s fleet captured Havana in -1763, the capital of Cuba enjoyed a freedom of foreign exchange never -before known. Quantities of sugar, coffee, hides and hardwoods, large -for those times, demanded transportation during the second quarter of -the 19th century. Foreign trade, too, was greatly stimulated in Cuba by -conditions resulting from the Civil War in the United States. The rapid -development of the sugar industry following this war soon called for -more permanent lines of ocean transportation. - -[Illustration: THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, HAVANA - -The Chamber of Commerce is one of the oldest civic organizations in -Cuba, which even under the repressive and discouraging rule of Spanish -Governors did much for the material progress of the Island. Under the -Republic its activities and achievements have of course been immensely -increased, and it is now appropriately housed in one of the finest -public buildings of the capital. A certain resemblance to the famous -Cooper Union building in New York has often been remarked, though the -Havana edifice is the more ornate and attractive of the two.] - -The interdependence of produce and transportation is well illustrated in -the early history of what is now known as the United Fruit Company. In -1870, Captain Lorenzo D. Baker was in command of a small, swift coasting -schooner en route from Jamaica to Boston. On the wharf at Kingston -lay some 40 bunches of bananas, a few of which were ripe, others lacking -10 days or more in which to change their dull green coats into the soft -creamy yellow of the matured fruit. Captain Baker was fond of bananas, -and ordered that the lot be placed on board his schooner, just before -sailing. Fortune favored him and strong easterly beam winds brought him -into the harbor of Boston in 10 days, with all of the bunches not -consumed en route in practically perfect condition. Many friends of -Capt. Baker, to whom this delicious fruit was practically unknown, got a -taste of the banana for the first time. Among these was Andrew W. -Preston, a local fruit dealer in Boston, who was greatly impressed with -the appearance of the fruit, and the success which had attended Captain -Baker’s effort to get the bananas into the market without injury. - -Mr. Preston reckoned that if a schooner with a fair wind could land such -delicious fruit in Boston in ten days, steamers could do the same work -with absolute certainty in less time. This far sighted pioneer and -promoter of trade realized that three factors were essential to building -up an industry of this kind. First, there must be a market for the -product, and he was confident that the people of Boston and the vicinity -could soon be educated to like the banana and to purchase it if offered -at a fair price. Next, a sufficient and steady supply must be provided. -Third, reliable transportation in the form of steamers of convenient -size and suitable equipment must be secured, in order to convey the -fruit with economy and regularity to the waiting market or point of -consumption. True, he at first failed to interest other fruit dealers in -the project. “It had never been done and consequently was a dangerous -innovation that would probably prove unprofitable.” But Mr. Preston had -visualized a new industry on a large scale, and with the faith of the -industrial pioneer he finally succeeded in persuading nine of his -friends to put up with him each $2,000, and to form a company for the -purpose of growing bananas in the West Indies, of chartering a steamer -suitable for the transportation, and finding a market for the produce in -Boston. - -The details were worked out carefully and the first cargo purchased in -Jamaica and landed in New England proved a decided success. During the -first two or three years the accruing dividends were invested in fruit -lands in Jamaica and everything went well. Not long after, however, it -was found that a West Indian cyclone could destroy a banana field and -put it out of business in a very few hours. More than one field or -locality in which to grow bananas on a large scale was necessary to -provide against the possible failure of the crop at some other point. - -In the meantime another broad minded and determined pioneer in the world -of progress, Minor C. Keith, a youth of 23, was trying to build a -railroad some 90 miles in length from Puerto Limon to the capital, San -Jose, in the highlands of Costa Rica. The greater part of this road was -through dense jungle and forest almost impenetrable, with nothing in the -shape of freight or passengers from which revenues could be derived -until the road was completed to the capital. Mr. Keith had a concession -from the Costa Rican Government, but the Government had no funds with -which to aid the builder in his enterprise, and this young engineer, -through force of character and moral suasion, kept his two thousand -workmen in line without one dollar of money for over 18 months. Food he -managed to scrape up from various sources, but the payday was -practically forgotten. In the meantime, some banana plants were secured -from a plantation in Colombia, and set out on the virgin soils along the -roadway through which Mr. Keith was laying his rails. These grew -marvellously, and not only supplied fruit for the Jamaica negroes -engaged in the work, but soon furnished bananas for export to New -Orleans, and thus was started a rival industry to that of Mr. Preston, -on the shores of the Western Caribbean. - -It was not long before Mr. Keith, who struggled for 20 years to -complete his line from the coast to the capital of Costa Rica, came into -contact with Mr. Preston. These captains of industry realized the -advantages of co-operation, and in a very short time organized the -United Fruit Company, which is probably the greatest agricultural -transportation company in the world to-day. Its various plantations -include lands in Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Honduras, Guatemala and -Jamaica. Large plantations of bananas belonging to the company were -until recently on the harbors of Banes and Nipe, on the north coast of -Oriente, in the Island of Cuba, but these were subjected to strong -breezes from the northeast that whipped the leaves and hindered their -growth. Then too, it was soon discovered that these lands were better -adapted to the cultivation of sugar cane, hence bananas of the United -Fruit Company disappeared from the Nipe Bay district, to be replaced by -sugar plantations that to-day cover approximately 37,000 acres and in -1920 will reach 50,000 acres. Over 200,000 acres on the coast of the -Caribbean are devoted to the cultivation of bananas. About 30,000 head -of cattle are maintained as a source of food for the thousands of -laborers, mostly Jamaicans, who are employed in the fields of the United -Fruit Company, which comprise an aggregate of 1,980,000 acres; while 743 -miles of standard gauge railway, together with 532 miles of narrow gauge -roads, are owned and operated throughout the various plantations. - -In the year 1915, 46,000,000 bunches of bananas were shipped by the -United Fruit Company from the shores of the Caribbean to the United -States, while the sugar plantations owned by the Company on the north -coast of Oriente Province, in Cuba, produced sugar in 1918 that yielded -a net return of $5,000,000. - -In order to provide transportation for this enormous agricultural output -this company to-day owns and operates one of the biggest fleets of -steamships in the world. Forty-five of these ships, with tonnages -varying from 3,000 to 8,000, especially equipped for the banana trade, -and with the best of accommodations for passengers, have an aggregate -tonnage of 250,000; while 49 other steamers were chartered by the -company before the war, making the total tonnage employed in the -carrying trade approximately half a million. - -Nearly all these steamers, which connect the coast of the Caribbean with -New York, Boston and New Orleans, touch, both coming and going, at the -City of Havana, thus giving that port the advantage of unexcelled -transportation facilities, and connecting Cuba not only with the more -important cities of the Gulf of Mexico, New York and New England, but -also with Jamaica, Caribbean ports, and the South American Republics -lying beyond the Isthmus of Panama, along the western shores of that -continent. - -No steamship line perhaps has been more closely related to the -commercial development of Cuba than has the New York & Cuba Mail -Steamship Company. This line had its origin in a carrying trade between -Cuba and the United States started by the firm of James E. Ward & Co. -The members of the firm were Mr. James E. Ward, Mr. Henry B. Booth and -Mr. Wm. T. Hughes. The Company was incorporated under the laws of the -State of New York and formally organized in July, 1881, with Mr. Ward as -President, Mr. Booth as Vice President and Mr. Hughes as Secretary and -Treasurer. When first organized the Company had only four ships, the -_Newport_, _Saratoga_, _Niagara_ and _Santiago_, with a gross tonnage of -10,179. Between the date of its organization and its transfer to the -Maine Corporation, or during a period of 26 years, the company acquired -19 vessels, with a total gross tonnage of 84,411. In addition to the -above the company has operated under foreign flags eight other ships -aggregating a tonnage of 26,624. - -The four original steamers mentioned above were owned in part by the -builders, Messrs. John Roach & Son, and a few other individuals. The -original firm however sold its ships to the Company at the time of its -reorganization. Of the vessels acquired by the company, the majority -were built under contract by Messrs. Roach & Son, and Wm. Cramp & Sons’ -Ship and Engine Building Company. Among the ships that were purchased -and not built especially for this company, were the two sister ships -_Seguranca_ and _Vigilancia_, built in 1890 for the Brazil Line. The -steamships _City of Washington_ and _City of Alexandria_ were originally -owned by the Alexandria Line, and passed into the hands of the Ward Line -after its organization. The _Matanzas_, formerly the Spanish steamer -_Guido_, that had left London with a valuable cargo of food, munitions -and money with which to pay off Spanish troops in Cuba, was captured by -the American forces during the early part of the war with Spain, in an -attempt to run the blockade that had been established, and was -afterwards sold by the American Government to the Ward Line. - -The business of this company, after its organization, began with a -passenger and freight service connecting the cities of Havana, Santiago -and Cienfuegos with New York. With the acquisition of the Alexandria -Line, the service of the company was extended to Mexico, and a number of -ports have been added to its itinerary both in Cuba and in Mexico. The -line to-day maintains a service on each of the following routes: New -York to Havana and return; New York to Havana, Progreso, Yucatan, and -Vera Cruz, returning via Progreso and Havana to New York; New York to -Tampico, Mexico, calling occasionally on return voyages at other ports -when cargoes are offered; New York to Guantanamo, Santiago, Manzanillo -and Cienfuegos, returning according to the demands of shipping -interests; New York to Nassau, in the Bahamas, Havana, and return. The -sailings average about five a week and schedules are prepared from time -to time to meet the requirements of trade. Passengers on this line are -carried in three distinct classes, first cabin, intermediate, and -steerage, the vessels being constructed with reference to suitable -accommodations for the various classes. - -The principal railway and other connections are as follows: At New York -in general with all railroads terminating at that port, as well as all -foreign and domestic water lines that move traffic via that port; at -Havana with the United Railways of Havana and the Cuba Railroad; at -Tampico with the Mexican Central Railway for interior points in Mexico; -at Progreso with the United Railways of Yucatan for Merida, Campeche and -other interior points; at Vera Cruz with the National Railways of Mexico -and the Interoceanic Railroad for interior points of Mexico, as well as -with the Vera Cruz and Pacific Railroad for interior points of Mexico -and the Pacific Coast; at Puerto Mexico with the Tehuantepec National -Railway, for points on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and on the Pacific -Coast. Connection is also made at Vera Cruz with the Compañia Mexicana -de Navegacion for traffic to Tuxpam, Coatzacoalcos, Tlacotalpam and -Frontera, ports on the Gulf of Mexico. At Santiago connection is made -with the Cuba Eastern Railway and Cuba Railroad for points throughout -the interior of Cuba; at Guantanamo with the Cuba Eastern Railway and at -Cienfuegos with the Cuban Central Railroad. - -The company has contracts with the United States Government for the -transportation of mails between New York and Havana, and between New -York, Havana and Mexico. It also has a contract with the Bahamas -Government for the transportation of mails. - -The following is a list of the vessels owned or operated by the company. - - STEAMERS: - - _Havana_ - _Saratoga_ - _Mexico_ - _Morro Castle_ - _Esperanza_ - _Matanzas_ - _Antilla_ - _Camaguey_ - _Santiago_ - _Bayamo_ - _Monterey_ - _Segurancia_ - _Vigilancia_ - _Seneca_ - _Manzanillo_ - _Yumuri_ - _Guantanamo_ - - - TUGS AND STEAM LIGHTERS: - - _Colonia_ - _Nautilus_ - _Neptuno_ - _Hercules_ - _Auxiliar_ - _Comport_ - _Edwin Brandon_ - -The total gross tonnage of the steamers and tugs above mentioned is -84,000 tons. - -One of the oldest and most important lines in the carrying trade of the -Caribbean is known as the Munson Steamship Line, and was founded in 1872 -by Walter D. Munson. The trade began with sailing vessels but the -increase in traffic was so great that these were soon replaced with -steamers. The steamships in the service of the Munson Line to-day number -140, with an average tonnage of 2,500 tons each, dead weight. - -These vessels sail from nearly every port in Cuba, connecting the Island -with nearly all of the Atlantic and Gulf Coast ports of the United -States. The passenger steamers of the Munson Line ply between New York, -Nuevitas and Nipe Bay of the Province of Oriente. The passenger -steamers, although not touching at Havana, are equipped for the -accommodation of passengers that leave from the ports of the eastern -provinces of the Island. - -During the late European War twelve of the Munson steamships were placed -in the service of the United States and three under the British flag. - -The Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company operates a daily -passenger, mail and freight service between Havana and Key West, -Florida. Since 1912 this company has maintained practically a daily -service between the two ports and maintains also a bi-weekly service -between Havana and Port Tampa, Florida. Owing to the frequency of the -sailings, the P. & O. SS. Co. is considered the official mail route -between the United States and Cuba. - -The company operates also the Florida East Coast Car-Ferry freight -service between Havana and Key West. This service was made possible by -the extension of the Florida East Coast Railroad from the southern -points of the peninsula out over the long line of keys that terminates -in the Island of Key West. - -The erection of this viaduct, built at an enormous expense, of stone and -concrete, was the realization of Henry W. Flagler’s dream of modern -transportation facilities between the United States and Cuba. The car -ferry service was inaugurated in January, 1915. At the present time two -of these great car ferryboats, with a capacity of 28 standard freight -cars each, make a round trip every twenty-four hours between the two -ports. These two vessels transport approximately 1,150 cars in and out -of Cuba every month, carrying over 35,000 tons each way in that length -of time. - -Since the inauguration of the service more business has been offered -than can be handled during certain months of the year, and it has been -found necessary to refuse large quantities of cargo destined for the -Republic of Cuba. The advantage of this service to the Cuban fruit and -vegetable growers has been very great, since they are enabled to load in -the Cuban fields freight cars belonging to almost every line in the -United States, so that this produce may be shipped direct, without -breaking bulk, to any market in the United States. - -In the year 1870 the Pinillos Izquierdo Line of steamers was established -between Spain and the Island of Cuba. The home office of this line is in -Cadiz, Spain. Their vessels are engaged in freight and passenger service -touching at the following points in the Peninsula: Barcelona, Palma de -Majorca, Valencia, Alicante, Malaga, Cadiz, Vigo, Gijon and Santander. - -En route the Canary Island and Porto Rico are also visited while the -terminal points on this side of the Atlantic are New Orleans, -Galveston, Havana and Santiago de Cuba. All of their steamers carry -mail. Their fleet consists of nine steamers with a combined tonnage of -78,000 tons as follows: - - Infanta Isabel 16,500 tons 2000 passengers - Cadiz 10,500 tons 1500 passengers - Barcelona 10,500 tons 1500 passengers - Valbanera 10,500 tons 1500 passengers - Catalina 8,000 tons 1000 passengers - Martin Sáena 5,500 tons 800 passengers - Balmes 6,500 tons 800 passengers - Conde Wifredo 5,500 tons 800 passengers - Miguel M. Pinillos 4,500 tons 500 passengers - ------ - 78,000 tons - -The Southern Pacific, originally known as the Morgan line, established a -transportation service between Gulf ports and the Island of Cuba many -years ago, beginning with two side-wheel walking-beam steamboats of -about 800 tons dead weight. They were heavy consumers of coal and had a -speed of from 9-1/2 to 11 knots. A few years later the steamers -_Hutchinson_ and _Arkansas_, both side wheelers, were added to the -fleet. Still later the single propeller steamers _Excelsior_ and -_Chalmette_, of about 2,400 tons each, were placed in the service of the -Southern Pacific Line. These combined freight and passenger boats were -well built and seaworthy fourteen knot steamers, of an equipment -considered modern at that time. The _Louisiana_ entered the service in -1900, but owing to an error in loading freight, it turned turtle at the -docks in New Orleans and became a total loss. The _Excelsior_ and -_Chalmette_ are still maintaining an efficient weekly service between -New Orleans and Havana. - -The _Compagnie General Transatlantique_, generally known as the French -Line, connecting western France, Northern Spain and the Canary Islands, -with Cuba, Porto Rico, Vera Cruz, Mexico, and the city of New Orleans, -was established in 1860. - -St. Nazaire on the Bay of Biscay in France is the headquarters of this -line. Their steamers touch at Santander and Coruña on the north coast of -Spain; at the Canary Islands, Porto Rico, Martinique, Santiago de Cuba, -Havana, Vera Cruz, and New Orleans. Their fleet consists of 13 ships -with a combined tonnage of 153,500 tons. - -The steamship _Lafayette_, of 15,000 tons, is equipped for the -accommodation of 1,620 passengers. The _Espana_, of 15,000 tons, carries -1,500 passengers; the _Flanders_, of 12,000 tons, carries 1,250 -passengers; the _Venizia_, of 12,000 tons, carries 700 passengers; the -_Navarre_, of 10,000 tons, carries 1,000 passengers; the _Venezuela_, of -7,000 tons, carries 500 passengers. - -The _Caroline_, the _Mississippi_ and the _Georgie_ are each steamers of -13,000 tons. The _Honduras_ is a 12,000 ton ship; the _Hudson_ 11,000 -tons; the _Californie_ 10,500 tons, and the _Virginie_ 10,000 tons. The -seven last mentioned vessels carry cargo only. - -During August, 1919, the 7,000 ton steamer _Panama Canal_ arrived in -Cuba from Japan, inaugurating a new steamship line between Japan and the -United States, touching at Cuban ports. The line is known as the Osaka -Shosen Kaisha, of Osaka, Japan. The fleet consists of 186 steamers -plying between Japan and different parts of the world. The headquarters -for this company has been established at Chicago, Illinois, owing to -connections that have been made with the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul -Railroad. - -Steamers eastward bound from Japan will bring rice and general cargo, -most of which will be consigned to the Island of Cuba, owing to the -heavy consumption of that article of food in that Republic. New Orleans -will be the terminus in the United States of the line. On the initial -trip of the _Panama Canal_ 50,000 sacks of rice grown in Japan were -consigned to Cuban merchants in Santiago de Cuba and Cienfuegos. The -return cargoes will be composed largely of cotton, taken aboard at New -Orleans, and with sugar and tobacco shipped from Cuba to the Orient. -This line has begun with one sailing each way per month, all steamers -touching at Havana for freight and passengers. - -The Customs regulations of Cuba require five sets of invoices for Havana -and four for all other points; which must be written in ink, in either -English or Spanish. If they are typewritten the original imprint must be -included, but the others may be carbon copies. Invoices must give the -names of shippers and consignees, and of vessels; marks and numbers, -description of merchandise, gross and net weights by metric system, -price, value, and statement of expenses incurred. If there are no -expenses, that fact must be stated. Prices must be detailed, on each -article, and not in bulk. Descriptions of merchandise must be detailed, -telling the materials of each article and of all its parts. Descriptions -of fabrics must tell the nature of the fibre, character of weave, dye, -number of threads in six square millimeters, length and width of piece, -weight, price, and value. All measurements must be in metric units. - -At the foot of each sheet of the invoice must be a signed declaration, -in Spanish, telling whether the articles are or are not products of the -soil or industry of the United States. If the manufacturer or shipper is -not a resident of the place where the consulate is situated, he must -appoint in writing a local agent to present the invoice and the agent -must write and sign a declaration concerning his appointment. Stated -forms are prescribed and are furnished by consuls for manufacturers, -producers, owners, sellers and shippers. - -Freight charges to the shipping port, custom house and statistical fees, -stamps, wharfage and incidental expenses must be included in the -dutiable value of goods, and must be stated separately; but insurance -and consular fees must not be included. - -Each invoice must cover a single, distinct shipment, by one vessel to -one consignee. Separate consignments must not be included in one -invoice. Invoices under $5, covering products of the soil or industry of -the United States must be certified in order to enjoy the provisions of -the reciprocity treaty between the two countries. Invoices and -declarations must be written on only one side of the paper, and no -erasures, corrections, alterations or additions must be made, unless -stated in a signed declaration. - -Domestic and foreign merchandise from the United States must be -separately invoiced. Invoices are not required on shipments of foreign -goods of less value than $5. - -Fabrics of mixed fibres must be so stated, with a statement of the -proportion of the principal material, upon which the duty is to be -computed. Cotton goods pay duty according to threads, and silk and wool -ad valorem. Samples of cotton goods are taken at the custom house, and -should be provided for that purpose to avoid mutilation of the piece. -Duties on ready made clothing are based on the chief outside fabric. A -surtax of 100% is placed on ready-made cotton clothing, and a surtax of -30% on colored threads. - -Two copies of each set of bills of lading must be given, but on -merchandise of less than $5 value need not be certified. - -Invoices covering shipments of automobile vehicles must state maker, -name of car, style of car, year of make, maker’s number on motor, number -of cylinders, horse power, and passenger capacity. - -If after an invoice has been certified it or any part of it is delayed -in shipment, the steamship company must mark on the bill of lading -opposite the delayed goods “Short Shipped,” but the invoice need not be -recertified. The consignee should, however, be informed. - -The list of articles admitted into Cuba free of duty comprises samples -of fabrics, felt, and wall paper, of a prescribed size, samples of lace -and trimmings, and samples of hosiery, provided that they are rendered -unfit for any other purpose than that of samples; trained animals, -animals, portable theatres, and other articles for public -entertainment, not to remain in Cuba longer than three months; -receptacles in which fruits or liquids were exported from Cuba and which -are being returned empty; furniture, clothing and other personal -property of immigrants, or of travellers, showing evidence of having -already been used; agricultural implements not including machinery; and -pictures, posters, catalogues, calendars, etc., not for sale but for -free distribution for advertising purposes. - -The importation into Cuba is forbidden or restricted of foreign coins of -anything but gold, save those of the United States; gunpowder, dynamite -and other explosives, save by special permit of the Interior Department; -and silencers for firearms. Arms of more than .32 caliber, .44 caliber -revolvers, and automatic pistols require special permit. - -Consular fees for certification are: On shipments worth less than $5, -nothing; from $5 upward and less than $50, fifty cents; from $50 upward -and less than $200, $2; over $200, $2 plus ten cents for each $100 or -fraction thereof. Extra copies of invoices, 50 cents each. Invoice -blanks, ten cents a set. Certifying bills of lading, $1. - -Cuban consulates are situated in the United States and its possessions -as follows: Atlanta, Ga.; Baltimore, Md.; Boston, Mass.; Brunswick, Ga.; -Chattanooga, Tenn.; Chicago, Ill.; Cincinnati, Ohio.; Detroit, Mich.; -Fernandina, Fla.; Galveston, Tex.; Gulfport, Miss.; Jacksonville, Fla.; -Kansas City, Mo.; Key West, Fla.; Los Angeles, Cal.; Louisville, Ky.; -Mobile, Ala.; New Orleans, La.; New York; Newport News, Va.; Norfolk, -Va.; Pascagoula, Miss.; Pensacola, Fla.; Philadelphia, Penn.; San -Francisco, Cal.; Savannah, Ga.; St. Louis, Mo.; Tampa, Fla.; Washington, -D. C.; and Aguadilla, Arecibo, Mayagues, Ponce, and San Juan, Porto -Rico. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVI - -AMERICAN COLONIES IN CUBA - - -American soldiers returning to the United States at the conclusion of -her little war with Spain, in the summer of 1898, brought wonderful -stories of Cuba, with glowing accounts of her climate, her rainfall, her -rich soil and natural advantages. Schemes for the colonization of the -Island were immediately formed and some of them put into effect during -the early days of the Government of Intervention. - -Unfortunately, most of these enterprises originated with speculators, -and so-called land-sharks, who sought only to secure large tracts of -territory, at the smallest possible cost, and with the assistance of -attractive literature place them on the market in the United States, at -prices which would enable them, even when sold on the installment plan -to make a thousand percent or more profit on the capital invested. - -This method of settling up the country would not have been so -objectionable had the promoters of the schemes taken the pains to locate -their colonies in those sections of the Island where transportation -facilities, if not immediately available, could at least be reasonably -sure in the near future. - -Up to the present, a logical, common sense plan in the colonization in -this Island has in no instance been carried out. On the contrary, every -American colony that has yet been established in Cuba, and her adjacent -Islands, has been located with disregard to the first essentials of -success. These hapless experiments have met with a fate that was -inevitable and in most instances can be described with one word -“Failure.” - -The first American Colony in Cuba was started on Broadway, New York -City, by a land speculator, who, through correspondence, learned of a -large property that could be had in Cuba with a small cash payment, at -what seemed to be a ridiculously low price; in other words at about 80 -cents an acre. An option was secured on several thousand acres, the -larger part of which, perhaps, was available for general agricultural -purposes. But the location with reference to transportation facilities -was one of the most unfortunate that could have been selected. This -colony was called La Gloria, and while La Gloria has not been a failure, -nothing in the world has saved it but the pluck, and persistent and -intelligent effort of a courageous and most commendable community of -Americans. - -Some 800 of these, not knowing where they were going, other than that it -was somewhere in Cuba, were dumped by a chartered steamer in the harbor -of Nuevitas, 40 miles from their destination. This they afterwards -reached with the aid of light draft schooners, or shallow, flat-bottom -boats, pushed through a muddy ditch some three or four miles, and as -many more over sand shoals, where the passengers were compelled to get -out and wade. Worse than all, when finally landed on the south shore of -Guajaba Bay, they were obliged to wade through a swamp for another five -miles, in mud knee-deep, or more, in order to reach the high ground on -which they were to make their future homes in a foreign land. - -Many of these colonists, disappointed and deceived, failed to stand the -strain, and those who had the necessary funds, or could borrow, returned -disgusted to their homes in the United States. Others, after studying -the soil and noting the splendid growth of forest and vegetation, lulled -into resignation by soft, cool breezes from the Atlantic Ocean, and the -bright sunshine that seldom missed a day, made up their minds to stick -to the game and to see it out, which they did. - -Their efforts in the end were crowned with a certain degree of success, -and the near future holds out to them the promise of fairly satisfactory -transportation for their fruit, vegetables and other products, to -profitable markets, both in Cuba and the United States. - -The colony of La Gloria in the fall of 1918 contained about 75 families -and comprised, all told, probably 500 people. This estimate includes the -little nearby settlements of Guanaja, Punta Pelota, Columbia, Canasi, -The Garden, and other little suburbs or groups of families, scattered -throughout the district. - -With the Cubans, the people of La Gloria have always maintained the most -friendly relations, while mutual esteem and respect is the rule of the -district. The Mayor of La Gloria, a Cuban, was elected by popular vote, -and is highly esteemed in the community as a man who has been always an -enthusiastic and efficient supporter of the interests of the colony. -Seventy per cent of the population is American. La Gloria has always -been fortunate in having a good school in which both Spanish and English -are taught. - -The town itself is located on the northern edge of the plateau, or rise -of ground overlooking the savanna that separates it from the bay. A -fairly good road some five miles in length, built at Government expense, -connects the town with the wharf, whence, up to the winter of 1918, all -produce was sent for shipment to the harbor of Nuevitas some forty miles -east by launch. - -The streets are very wide, shaded with beautiful flowering flamboyans, -and the houses, many of them two stories in height, are built of native -woods, cedar, mahogany, etc., products of the saw mills of the -neighborhood. These, as a rule, are kept painted, and the general -appearance of the town, although not bustling with business, is one of -comfort, cleanliness and thrift. - -It is not an exaggeration to state that there is no little town in -conservative New England where less of waste, or disfiguring material, -even in back yards, or rear of houses, can be found, than in the little -town of La Gloria. The furnishing of most of the houses consists of a -strange mingling of articles of comfort brought from home, combined with -other things that have been improvised and dug out of their tropical -surroundings. - -A mistake, made in the early days of La Gloria, and one common to every -American colony in the West Indies, has been the exclusive dedication of -energy, effort and capital to the growth of citrus fruit. The first -essential factor to the success of a colony in any climate is food, and -forage for animals. This, in nearly every American town in Cuba, has -been ignored, every effort being expended on the planting and promotion -of a citrus grove from which no yield could be expected inside of five -or six years, and during which time, many a well meaning farmer has -become discouraged or has exhausted his capital, leaving his grove in -the end to be choked up with weeds and ruined by the various enemies of -the citrus family. However, the people of La Gloria planted and stuck to -their orange trees and many of these, today, are yielding very -satisfactory returns, in spite of the serious lack of transportation. - -The best land belonging to the colony is located in the district known -as Canasi, some three miles south of the town, in the direction of the -Cubitas Mountains. There are 600 acres in this section devoted to -oranges and grape fruit, all of which have been well cared for and are -increasing in value each year. - -The citizens of the colony have joined forces and built a well equipped -packing plant, 100 feet in length by 30 feet in width, from which, last -year, were shipped 432,000 loose oranges, and 9,200 boxes of grape -fruit, the latter going to the United States by the way of Nuevitas. All -of this fruit at the present time is hauled by wagon, some eight or nine -miles to the wharf, on the bay, whence it is conveyed to the harbor of -Nuevitas for sale and shipment. - -La Gloria’s hope of really satisfactory transportation facilities is -vested in the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, and her dream of suitable -connections with the outside world of trade will soon be realized. La -Gloria has many things to commend it, aside from soil and climate. One -of these is excellent drinking water, found at an average depth of -twenty feet. The soil on which the town is built is largely impregnated -with iron ore, which forms a splendid roadbed, and enables the -population to escape the seas of mud that are rather common throughout -the interior, excepting along macadamized roads. - -Most vegetables, with the exception of potatoes, may be grown throughout -the entire year in La Gloria, and a variety of potato adapted to that -peculiar soil will probably be found in the near future. A serious -mistake common not only in La Gloria but in nearly all other colonies in -Cuba has been neglect in sowing forage plants and thus providing for -live stock, so essential to the success of any farming district. - -That which is most to be admired in La Gloria, is the class of people -who form the backbone of the colony, and who certainly came from -excellent stock, proved by their successful efforts in overcoming -difficulties that would have discouraged a less persevering community. -The colony supports a weekly newspaper, and holds annual agricultural -fairs that are a credit to the district. - -The second and most serious experiment in colonization in Cuba was -staged in the Isle of Pines. In the year 1900 this intrepid storm -sentinel of the Caribbean offered several advantages for a successful -exploitation of the American public. In spite of the fact that this -Island had always formed an integral part of Cuba, it was advertised -throughout the United States as American property, and the flag raised -by the Government of Intervention was pointed to as a permanent asset of -that particular section. - -Again the promoters of this pretentious colonization scheme absolutely -ignored the basic principles of success in colony work. In other words -they did not take into account that not only was the Isle of Pines -devoid of a first-class harbor, but that the chances of securing direct -transportation between that section and the United States was decidedly -remote. - -Through the hypnotic influence of beautifully worded advertisements and -attractive pictures, large numbers of settlers from the United States -and Canada, especially from Minnesota and the Dakotas, were tempted to -locate in the Isle of Pines, or to purchase property, usually on the -installment plan, which they had never seen, and for which they paid -exorbitant prices. - -Tracts that cost from 90¢ to $1.20 per acre, were divided into 10, 20 -and 40 acre farms, and sold at prices ranging from $25 in the beginning -up to $75 and even $100 per acre in 1918. These prices have always been -out of proportion to the quality of the soil, and the location of the -land, since lands far more fertile, and within easy reach of steamers -leaving Havana daily, might have been found on the mainland of Cuba, -that would give the prospect of a fair chance of success in almost any -agricultural undertaking. - -Here again the prospective settler was advised to start citrus fruit -groves, to the exclusion of forage and other crops from which immediate -returns would have encouraged the farmer, and permitted him to live -economically while making up his mind as to the advisability of citrus -fruit culture, which is a specialized form of horticulture, requiring -much technical knowledge, and a great deal of experience to insure -satisfactory results. - -In the Isle of Pines, as in La Gloria, while many men have been -disappointed, and many families have left the country in despair, there -still remains a nucleus of hard working, intelligent and enterprising -men who, in spite of the disadvantages that will surround them, have -made for themselves comfortable homes, and who enjoy the quiet, dreamy -life that soon becomes essential to the man who remains long in the -tropics. - -The Isle of Pines ships a considerable amount of fruit and vegetables -each year, through Havana, to markets in the United States. How often -the balance may be found on the profit side of the ledger, however, is -open to question. The Isle of Pines undoubtedly offers an excellent -retreat for those who have become tired of the strenuous life of cities, -and who prefer to pass the remainder of their days in pleasant, -healthful surroundings. To do this, of course, requires an income that -will insure them against any little petty annoyance that might come from -a disturbing cyclone, or a low price for grape fruit in northern -markets. - -The enterprising promoters connected with the early colonization of the -Isle of Pines made a second experiment at Herradura, in the Province of -Pinar del Rio, 90 miles from the city of Havana by rail. Here they -purchased some 22,000 acres of land in 1902, paying, it is said, an -average price of a dollar an acre, and started the third American colony -in Cuba under the name of Herradura. - -In the colonization work, the old La Gloria and Isle of Pines method of -advertising was faithfully followed, and with results eminently -satisfactory to the promoters, most of whom have acquired comfortable -fortunes, at the expense of Americans and Canadians in the United States -who were anxious to find homes where they could enjoy life and perhaps -prosper in the Tropics. - -The larger part of the Herradura tract, especially that which lay along -the Western Railroad, was a light sandy soil, used by the natives in the -olden days for grazing cattle, and burned over every winter, thus -destroying nearly all of the humus in the land. This property was -divided into 40-acre tracts and sold at $20 per acre. As soon as the -settlers from the United States began to arrive in any numbers, the -price was advanced to $40. Citrus fruit was held out to prospective home -seekers as the surest means of securing an easy life and a fortune after -the first four or five years. - -Under favorable conditions, where all the essential elements to success -are combined, this is possible. But Herradura did not combine all of the -required features, hence hundreds of acres of abandoned groves can be -seen along the railroad track for miles, as one enters the Herradura -district. The cyclone of 1917 which added the last straw to the -proverbial camel’s back, in the Isle of Pines, swept across the western -end of Pinar del Rio Province also, and only those groves that had been -provided with wind-breaks escaped from blight and ruin in the hurricane. - -Today there are about 25 families, with perhaps 100 inhabitants, -remaining in the colony of Herradura. Some of these settlers, men of -experience, who came from the citrus grove districts of Florida, and -others who took up general farming on the better lands, some two or -three miles north of the railroad, have succeeded, and have built for -themselves comfortable homes where rural life is enjoyed to the utmost. - -Some of them have their machines with which they can motor over a -splendid automobile drive to Havana, and spend a few days in the -capital, during the opera season. Nearly all of them have a few saddle -horses that furnish splendid exercise and amusement for the younger -members of the colony. One of the successful old timers of Herradura is -Mr. Earle, formerly chief of the Government Experimental Station at -Santiago de Las Vegas, a scientific farmer and a good business man. Mr. -Earle located on good land in a little valley well back from the road, -planted 40 acres in citrus fruit and has succeeded where others failed. - -On all lands where irrigation is possible, the growing of vegetables, -especially peppers and egg plants, has proven very satisfactory. The -average number of crates per acre is 350, and a dollar per crate net is -the estimated average profit. The irrigation comes either from wells or -little streams. - -The raising of pigs and poultry has helped greatly all those farmers of -Herradura who had the foresight not to neglect the live stock and -poultry end in their farming enterprises. - -The price of fairly good land in Herradura today is from $25 to $50 per -acre. The successful owner of a well cared for citrus grove in this -colony values it at $1,500 per acre. The freight on fruit and vegetables -from Herradura to the city of Havana over the Western Road, is ten cents -per box. - -The colony boasts of a very comfortable school house, which also serves -as a church and town hall. The old standbys, as they call themselves, -seldom complain of their lot, and could hardly be induced to change or -seek homes in other localities. - -There are some half dozen American and Canadian colonies in the Province -of Oriente, most of them scattered along the line of the Cuba Company’s -railroad that has brought the interior of that province into contact -with the seaports of Antilla, on the north coast, and Santiago de Cuba -on the south. The colony of Bartle is the westernmost, located about -fifty miles from the borderline between that province and Oriente. - -The Bartle tract consisted originally of 5,000 acres, 3,000 of which lie -north of the railroad and the remainder extending toward the south. Most -of the land is covered with a heavy forest of hard woods and the work of -clearing is a serious proposition, although the soil, once freed from -stumps, is exceptionally rich and productive. Less than 2,000 acres have -been cleared up to the present, and some three or four hundred have been -planted in citrus fruit. Good water is found at a depth of 25 feet. - -There are approximately 200 permanent residents in this little -settlement, which has been laid out to advantage with its Plantation -House, hotel, church, stores, etc., and a very neat railway station. The -buildings are nearly all frame, painted white with green trimmings. In -Bartle, as in all colonial settlements in Cuba up to the present, the -planting of citrus fruit seems to have been the aim and ambition of the -settlers, who are about evenly divided between Canadians and Americans. - -Just south of Bartle are a number of small estates on land that belonged -to the late Sir Wm. Van Horne, father of the Cuba Company Railroad. - -Twenty miles further east a colony has been established at Victoria de -las Tunas, one of the storm centers of the various revolutionary -movements on the part of the Cubans against Spanish control. There are -some 800 or 900 acres of citrus fruit groves, in various stages of -production, within a radius of fifteen miles surrounding the town of -Victoria de las Tunas. In nearly all of the American and Canadian -colonies in the Province of Oriente, settlers have learned, at times -through bitter experience, that it was an economical mistake to devote -all of their energies to the production of citrus groves that could give -them no returns inside of five years, and that, with the exception of -the local markets of Camaguey, Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba, neither -oranges nor lemons would bring a sufficient price to pay for the cost of -packing, transportation and sale. Grape fruit usually yielded a profit, -if the market happened to be just right; or in other words, if competing -shipments from Florida and California did not lower the price below the -margin of profit. - -Twenty-two miles still further east we find the colony of Omaja, -boasting a population of nearly 300 people, most of whom are Americans, -although a number are from England and Canada. A small group of hard -working Finlanders, too, have joined their fortunes with the settlers of -Omaja. The surrounding country is quite attractive, and was at one time -a huge cattle ranch, covering some 50,000 acres of land, divided between -heavy forests and open savannas. - -Omaja has the usual complement of post-office, school-house, churches -and stores, with a sufficient variety of creeds to satisfy almost any -community. Some 700 or 800 acres of citrus fruit have been planted in -Omaja, about one-half of which is grape-fruit and Valencia oranges. -Omaja has an encouraging amount of social and musical activity which -lightens the more serious burdens of life in the colony. - -Some 30 miles north of Santiago de Cuba, and 50 miles south of Antilla, -the shipping point on Nipe Bay, are two small colonies only a few miles -apart known as Paso Estancia and Bayate. There are some 40 or 50 -permanent settlers in Paso Estancia, Americans, Canadians and English. -They have made clearings in the thick virgin forests and made for -themselves comfortable and rather artistic little homes; frame buildings -covered with zinc roofs, perched on hillsides, convenient to swift -running streams. - -The “Royal Palm” Hotel, a cement building, furnishes accommodations for -newcomers and guests. The view from the hotel, looking across a -delightful panorama of forest covered hills and valleys, gives a certain -lasting charm to the vicinity. - -The settlers of this section evidently were advised of the mistakes made -in other parts of the Island, and while the growing of citrus fruits -seems to have been the main object, food products, corn, vegetables, -coffee, cacao, cattle, hogs and forage were not neglected. - -A few miles south is the colony of Bayate, settled very largely by -Swedish Americans, whose programme has been quite a departure from that -of other colonists in Cuba. Their children are being taught Spanish in -the schools so that they may bring their parents more closely in contact -with their Spanish speaking neighbors. There are approximately 200 -settlers in this community, most of whom have devoted their energies to -growing sugar cane, for which the land in the neighborhood is -excellently adapted. The Auza mill, twelve miles further down the -railroad, buys all of the cane they can raise, giving them in exchange -5-1/2 lbs. of sugar for every 100 pounds of cane. There is a very decent -little hotel, built of mahogany and cedar, furnishing accommodations to -guests who may happen to stop. - -Bayate has its school house, for which the Cuban Government furnishes -two teachers, one of whom teaches in Spanish and the other in English. -Most of the settlers have their own cows, pigs and an abundance of -chickens. Some of them are planting coffee and cacao on the hill sides. -Two crops of corn may be easily grown in this section, and nothing -perhaps in Cuba, brings a better price, especially in the western end of -the Island. - -It would seem quite probable that general farming will eventually take -the place of the citrus fruit grove in Cuba, as a source of permanent -income and profit. The demand for sugar, brought about by the European -War, greatly increased the acreage of cane, and has undoubtedly saved -many American colonies, especially those of Oriente, from economical -disaster. - -It is to be hoped that the Cuban Government, in the future, may be -induced to provide some kind of supervision over projected colonies in -regard to the selection of localities, the character of soil, and the -election of agricultural undertakings which will insure success. It is -the desire of the Government that all homeseekers, if possible, may find -life in Cuba both pleasant and profitable, and only in some such way can -the mistakes of colonization in the past be avoided. - - - - -INDEX - - -AGRAMONTE, General Eugenio Sanchez, Secretary of Agriculture, 154. - -AGRICULTURE, 144; - typical rural home view, 145; - natural advantages of soil and climate, 145; - Department of Agriculture, 148; - Division of Agriculture, 148; of Commerce, 149; - of Veterinary Science and Animal Industry, 149; - of Forestry and Mines, 149; - of Trade Marks and Patents, 150; - of Meteorology, 150; - of Immigration, Colonization and Labor, 150; - of Game and Bird Protection, 151; - of Publicity and Exchanges, 152; - Experiment Station, 153; - breeding live stock, 155; - fruits and vegetables, 156; - combatting insects and diseases, 157; - “black fly,” 157. - See GRAINS, GRASS, FRUIT, VEGETABLES, STOCK-RAISING. - -AMERICAN COLONISTS, 80, 103, 390; - deluded by speculators, 391; - ill-chosen sites, 391; - La Gloria, 392; - relations with the Cubans, 392; - increasing and assured prosperity for those who persevere, 393; - Isle of Pines, 394; - Herradura, Pinar del Rio, 396; - Bartle, 398; - Victoria de las Tunas, 399; - Omaja, 399; - Paso Estancia and Bayate, 400. - -American Legation at Havana, 298. - -ANIMALS, Indigenous, 257; - the hutia, 257; - sandhill crane, 258; - guinea fowl, 258; - turkey, 259; - quail, 259; - buzzard, 259; - sparrow hawk, 259; - mocking bird, 259; - pigeons, 259; - parrots, 260; - tody, 260; - orioles, 260; - lizard cuckoo, 261; - trogon, 261; - flamingo, 262; - Sevilla, 262; - ani, 262. - See POULTRY, STOCK RAISING, BEES. - -ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM:, 126; - early discovery of pitch, 126; - observations of Alexander von Humboldt, 127; - in Havana Province, 128; - in Matanzas, 128; - in Pinar del Rio, 129; - many wells sunk, 130, et seq. - -Atkins, Edward F., Sugar promoter, 177. - - -BANKING. See MONEY AND BANKING. - -BEES, for honey and wax, 280; - exceptional facilities for culture, 281; - trade in wax, 282. - -Birds. See ANIMALS. - -Botanic Gardens, 301. - - -CACAO, 233; - for food and drink, 234; - varieties, 236; - culture, 236. - -CAMAGUEY Province, 71; - history, 71; - topography, 74; - harbor of Nuevitas, 78; - resources and industries, 79; - American colonies, 80; - Camaguey City, 82; - chrome deposits, 116. - -Canning, opportunity for industry, in pineapples, 226. - -CARDENAS, City, 56; - City Hall and Plaza, scene, 56; - Industries, 57; - mines, 58. - -Cauto River, 85. - -Chocolate. See CACAO. - -Chrome. Sec MINES AND MINING. - -CIENAGA DE ZAPATA, 67; plans for draining, 165. - -Cienfuegos, 65. - -Clay and Cement, 27. - -CLIMATE, 19; - equable temperature, 19; - rainfall, 20; - at Havana, 31. - -Cocoa. See CACAO. - -COFFEE, 197; - origin of Cuban plantations, 197; - many abandoned groves, 198; - methods of culture, 199; - profits of crop, 199; marketing, 200; encouragement for the industry, 201. - -Commerce. See OCEAN TRANSPORTATION, and RAILROADS. - -Cork Palm, 38. - -Customs. See OCEAN TRANSPORTATION. - - -DRIVES: A Paradise of Palm-shaded automobile highways, 326; - roads radiating from Havana, 327; - to Matanzas, 328; - to Artemisa, 328; - to Candelaria, 329; - San Cristobal, 329; - Bahia Honda, 320; - San Diego de los Banos, 330; - Pinar del Rio, 331; - Valley of Vinales, 331; - Mariel, 333; - radiating from Matanzas, 335; - Cardenas, 336; - Cienfuegos, 336; - Trinidad, 336; - radiating from Santa Clara, 337; - Camaguey, 337; - Santiago, 337; - among Mountains of Oriente, 338. - - -FORESTRY, 135; - great number and variety of trees, 135; - alphabetical list of sixty leading kinds, with characteristics of each, 136, et seq.; - location of timber lands, 142; - extent, 143. - -FRUITS: Aguacate, 228; - varieties, 229; - for salads, 230. - Anon, or sugar apple, 226. - Bananas, the world’s greatest fruit, 219; - methods of use, 219; - grown for commerce, 220; - soil and cultivation, 221; - varieties, 222; - possibilities of the crop, 223. - Chirimoya, 226. - Citrus fruits, 211; - orange groves, 212; - discretion and care needed in culture, 214; - varieties of oranges, 215; - grape fruit, 217; - limes, 217. - Figs, 228. Grapes, 232; - experiments with various kinds, 233; - wine-making, 233. - Guava, 228. - Mamey, 227. - Mamoncillo, 228. - Mango, foremost fruit of Cuba, 203; - the Manga, 204; - varieties and characteristics, 204, et seq.; - for both fruit and shade, 209; - fruit vender in Havana, scene, 209. - Pineapples, 224; - soil and culture, 224; - profits of crop, 225; - varieties, 225; - for canning, 226. - Sapodilla, see Zapote. - Tamarind, 227. - Zapote, 226. - - -GRAIN: Indian corn, 248; - Kaffir corn, 249; - millet, 249; - wheat, 249; - rice, 250; - opportunities for rice culture, 251. - -GRASSES AND FORAGE PLANTS: Parana grass, 253; - Bermuda grass, 253; - alfalfa, 253; cow peas, 254; - beans, 255; - peanuts, 255. - -Guantanamo, 89. - - -HARBORS: Havana, 28, 342; - Mariel, 41, 341; - Cabanas, 42, 341; - Bahia Honda, 42, 341; - Cienfuegos, 65, 349; - Nuevitas, 78, 345; - Nipe, 87, 346; - Guantanamo, 89, 347; - Santiago, 87, 348; - Matanzas, 343; - Cardenas, 344; - Sagua, 344; - Caibarien, 344; - Manati, 345; - Puerto Padre, 346; - Banes, 346; - Cabonico and Levisa, 347; - Sagua de Tanamo, 347; - Baracoa, 347; - Manzanillo, 349; - Batabano, 350. - Minor - harbors, 350, et seq. - -Hawley, Robert B., Sugar promoter, 175. - -HAVANA, City: history, 303; - famous streets and buildings, 304 et seq.; - modern development of city and suburbs, 307; - El Vedado, 308; - places of Interest, 309; - National Theatre, 310; - the Prado, 310; - parks, 211; - Colon Cemetery, 311; - Municipal Band and other musical organizations, 312; - Conservatory of Music, 312; - drives, 313; - bathing beaches, 313, 314; - Havana Yacht Club, 314; - fishing, 314; - Jai Alai, 315; - baseball, 316; - horse racing, 317; - golf, 317; - the Templete, 317; - the Maestranza, 318; - Department of Sanitation, 318; - La Hacienda, 319; - old Governor-General’s palace, 319; - Senate Chamber, 320; - “General Wood Laboratory,” 321; - School of Industrial Arts and Sciences, 322; - Academy of Sciences and Fine Arts, 322; - President’s Palace, 322; - new Capitol, 324; - National Hospital 325. - See PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. - -HAVANA, Province: topography, 21; - Valley of the Guines, 23; - tobacco region, 24; - forests, 25; - agriculture and horticulture, 26; - industries, 27; - harbor of Havana, 28; - water supply, 30; - climate, 31. - -HENEQUEN: world-wide importance, 53; - brought from Yucatan, 190; - first plantation, 191; - International Harvester Company’s plantation, 191; - possibilities of extension of the industry, 192; - advantages of soil and climate, 193; - estimates of cost and profit, 195. - -Himely, H. A., estimates Sugar crop, 166. - -Holguin, 93. - - -IRON. See MINES AND MINING. - - -MAGOTES, 14. - -Manganese. See MINES AND MINING. - -Manzanillo, 92. - -MATANZAS Province: Topography, 49; - drainage system, 49; - Yumuri River and Valley, 51; - resources, 52; - henequen and sisal, 53; - Matanzas City, 54; - Caves of Bellamar, 55; - Cardenas, 56; - mines, 58; - sugar, 58; - chrome, 116. - -Menocal, Mario G., Sugar promoter, 175. - -MINES AND MINING: Pinar del Rio, 47; - Matanzas, 58; - Oriente, 96; - early search for gold, 104. - Copper: El Cobre mines, 105; - near Havana, 106; - Bayamo, 107; - Matanzas, 108; - Santa Clara, 108; - Camaguey, 108; - Pinar del Rio, 109; - American interests in, 109; - Matahambre mines, 110. - Iron, in Oriente, 111; - Camaguey, 112; - Pinar del Rio, 112; - nickeliferous ores, 112; - statistics of shipments of iron and copper ores, 112. - Manganese, in Oriente, Pinar del Rio and Santa Clara, 115, 120, 121, 122; - analysis of ore, 123; output, 124. - Chrome, in Havana, Matanzas, Camaguey and Oriente, 115; - United States Geological Survey’s prospects, 114, 117; - many rich deposits, 117 et seq. - -MONEY AND BANKING: Early monetary systems, 361; - double standard adopted, 363; - stabilization under American occupation, 363; - present standard and unit, 364; - statistics, 364; - list of principal banks of Cuba, 366. - - -OCEAN TRANSPORTATION: United Fruit Company, origin of, 376; - Lorenzo D. Baker and Andrew D. Preston, 377; - Minor C. Keith’s Costa Rica railroad, 378; - development of world’s greatest agricultural transportation company, 379; - magnitude of its fleet, 379. - New York and Cuba Mail Company, origin and development of, 380; - Ward, Alexandria and other lines merged, 381; - extent of service, 381 et seq.; - its fleet, 382. - Munson Steamship Line, 383; - extent of its service, 383. - Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company, 383; - its great ocean and railroad ferry from Havana to Key West, 384. - Pinillos Izquiendo Line, between Cuba and Spain, 384; - its large fleet, 385. - Southern Pacific, formerly Morgan, Line, 385. - French Line, 385; - its fleet, 386. - Japanese Line, Osaka Shosen Kaisha, 386. - Customs regulations, 387; - invoices, 387; - consular fees, 389; - Cuban consulates in United States and its territories, 389. - -ORGAN Mountains, 13. - -ORIENTE Province: Topography, 83; - picture of mountain road, 84; - rivers, 85; - sugar, 86; - Guantanamo, 89; - Santiago, 89; - resources and industries, 95; - mines, 96; - iron, 110; - chrome and manganese, 117. - - -PACKING HOUSES, opportunity for, 273. - -“Paradise of Palm Drives,” 326. - -PEOPLE OF CUBA: Their hospitality and other traits, 1; - domestic habits, 2; - racial descent, 3; - Gallegos and Catalans, 5; - English, 5; - Irish, 6; - Italians, 6; - Germans, 7; - Americans, 7. - -Petroleum. See ASPHALT. - -PINAR DEL RIO Province: Topography, 34; - Valley of Vinales, 36; - harbors, 41; - Pinar del Rio City, 45; - Vuelta Abajo tobacco region, 45; - mines, 47. - -PLACES OF HISTORIC INTEREST, 284-302: - Atares Fort, 300; - Bayamo, 92; - Belen Convent and College, 298; - Bellamar Caves, 55; - Cabanas, la, 286; - history, 286; - prison and place of execution, 287; - “Road without Hope,” 287; - present condition, 289. - Cathedral, Havana, 294; - Castillo del Principe, 300; - Chorrera, la, fort, 299; - City Wall of Havana, 291; - Cojimar fort, 299; - Echarte mansion, 298; - Fuerza, la, 292; - Institute of Havana, 294; - Jesus del Monte church, 297; - Merced, la, convent, 296; - Morro Castle, Havana, 284; - Punta, la, 290; - Quinto de Molinos, 301; - San Augustin convent 296; - San Francisco church and convent, 295; - Santa Catalina convent, 296; - Santa Clara convent, 297; - Santa Teresa church, 297; - Santo Angel church, 297; - Santo Domingo church and convent, 293; - Torreon de la Playa, 299; - Torreon de la San Lazaro, 300; - “Twelve Apostles,” at El Morro, 286. - -POULTRY: Varieties, 278; - Turkeys, 279; - Guinea hens, 279. - -PUBLIC INSTRUCTION: Backward state under Spanish rule, 367; - progress under American occupation, 368; - Alexis E. Frye, Superintendent, 368; - Lincoln de Zayas, 368; - great aid from Harvard University, 369; - schools placed under National government, 370; - Miss Abbie Phillips, General Superintendent of English, 370; - Dr. Dominguez Roldan, Secretary of Public Instruction, 371; - increase in schools and school attendance during President Menocal’s administration, 371; - “School of the Home,” 372; - Institute of Havana, 372; - National University, 373; - National School of Languages, 373; - National Public Library, 374. - -Puerto Principe. See CAMAGUEY. - - -RAILROADS: First railroad on Spanish soil in Cuba, 353; - United Railways of Havana, 353; - Matanzas Railway, 354; - extension of system, 354; - electric lines, 354. - Sir William Van Horne’s great work, 355; - Cuba Company’s line and branches, 356 et seq.; - work of R. G. Ward in building and equipping Cuba Company’s lines, 358. - Cuba Central road and branches, 359. - North Shore road, 360. - -Rionda, Don Manuel, Sugar promoter, 173. - - -SANTA CLARA Province: - History, 60; - mountains, 62; - rivers, 64; - Cienfuegos, 65; - Sancti Spiritus, 66; - Cienaga de Zapata,67; - resources and industries, 68; - coffee, 69. - -Santiago, 89. - -Schools. See PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. - -Shipping. See OCEAN TRANSPORTATION. - -Sisal. See HENEQUEN. - -Sponges, extent of industry, 283. - -SPORTS: Automobiling, 326 et seq.; - bathing beaches, 313; - yachting, 314; fishing, 314; - Jai Alai, 315; - baseball, 316; - horse racing, 317; - golf, 317. - -STOCK RAISING: Horses introduced into Cuba, 263; - recent importations from the United States, 263; - breeds and numbers, 264; - mules, 265. - Cattle, 265; - importations, 266; - choice breeding, 267; - crossing with the zebu, 267; - advantages of Cuba for stock raising, 268. - Swine, 269; - advantages for hog raising, 270; - palmiche and yuca for hog food, 271; - varieties of swine, 272; - opportunity for packing plants in hog products, 273. - Sheep, for food, 273. - Goats, for meat, skins and hair, 274; - Angoras, 275; - profits, 276. - -SUGAR: In Matanzas, 58; - Santa Clara, 68; - Camaguey, 79; - Oriente, 86; - El Chaparra and Las Delicias, 86; - Bay of Nipe, 87; - magnitude of crop, 160; - favorable natural conditions, 161; - reports and estimates of available lands, 161 et seq.; - possible output, 164; - plans for draining swamp lands, 164; - Cienaga de Zapata, 165; - Mr. R. G. Ward’s projects, 166; - Mr. H. A. Himely’s estimates of crop, 166; - methods of planting and cultivation, 167; - the labor problem, 168; - “Administration” and “Colono” systems, 170; - Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, 173; - Cuban-American Sugar Company, 175; - Rionda Sugar Properties, 176; - United Fruit Company’s Sugar Properties, 177; - Atkins Sugar Properties, 177; - Poté Rodriguez Sugar Properties, 178; - West Indies Sugar Finance Corporation, 178; - Gomez-Mena Properties, 179; - Cuba Company Properties, 180; - Mendoza-Cunaga Properties, 180; - Cuba’s relation to the world’s supply of sugar, 181. - - -TOBACCO: Tumbadero, in Havana, 24; - Vuelta Abajo, Pinar del Rio, 45; - early history, 183; - profits of crop, 184; - method of growing, 184; - various regions of growth, 186; - insect pests, 186; - growing under cheesecloth, 187; - magnitude of industry, 188. - -TOPOGRAPHY, of Cuba: Mountain systems, 10; - Sierra Maestra, 11; - El Yunque, 11; - Sierras Cristal and Nipe, 12; - Najassa Hills, 12; - Sierra Cubitas, 13; - Sierra del Escambray, 13; - Sierras Morena, and de Bamburano, 13; - Sierra de los Organos, 13; - Vinales Valley, 14; - Magotes, 14; - plains, 16. - - -VANILLA, 237; - growth and preparation for market, 238. - -VEGETABLES: Beans, Lima and string, 244; - Egg plant, 243; - Okra, 244; - Peppers, 242; - Potatoes, 242; - Pumpkins, 245; - Squashes, 245; - Tomatoes, 243. - - -WARD, R. G., plans for draining Cienaga de Zapata, 166; - railroad construction and equipment, 358. - - -YUMURI River and Valley, 51. - -[Illustration: Map of Cuba] - - * * * * * - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -so that it can product=> so that it can produce {pg vii} - -The shores of Mariel are beautfiul=> The shores of Mariel are beautiful -{pg 41} - -at the southern end of the Bat=> at the southern end of the Bay {pg 41} - -aferwards was led=> afterwards was led {pg 61} - -on the party of=> on the part of {pg 80} - -Mexican revoultions=> Mexican revolutions {pg 191} - -they should fear=> they should bear {pg 207} - -any woman whose chose to devote=> any woman who chose to devote {pg 297} - -the installment plant=> the installment plan {pg 395} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The History of Cuba, vol. 5, by -Willis Fletcher Johnson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - -***** This file should be named 41267-0.txt or 41267-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/6/41267/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/41267-0.zip b/old/41267-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 02f3040..0000000 --- a/old/41267-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/41267-8.txt b/old/41267-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e8e4875..0000000 --- a/old/41267-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14758 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The History of Cuba, vol. 5, by Willis Fletcher Johnson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The History of Cuba, vol. 5 - -Author: Willis Fletcher Johnson - -Release Date: November 2, 2012 [EBook #41267] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -The etext replicates the original book. Some obvious typographical -errors have been corrected; a list follows this etext. The author's -incorrect and varied spellings of Spanish has not been corrected, -modernized or normalized. - -[Illustration: FRANCISCO DE FRIAS - -One of the foremost agricultural and economic scientists of his time, -Francisco de Frias y Jacott, Count of Pozos Dulces, was born in Havana -on September 24, 1809, and died in Paris, France, on October 24, 1877. -He studied in the United States and Europe, specializing in physics and -chemistry, and then sought to devote his genius to the economic welfare -of Cuba. He wrote notable works on Cattle Breeding, on Chemical -Research, and on Labor and Population. His patriotic spirit provoked -Captain-General Canedo to banish him for a time, but on his return as -editor of _El Siglo_ he conducted so powerful a campaign for social, -economic, political and administrative reforms that the Spanish -government was constrained to heed him and to plan new legislation for -Cuba. For this purpose it formed a Junta of Information, of which he was -a member representing Santa Clara. Upon the failure of that body he -wrote a memorable protest against the policy which had compelled that -result, and a year later removed to Paris.] - - - - -THE -HISTORY OF CUBA - -BY - -WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON - -A.M., L.H.D. - -Author of "A Century of Expansion," "Four Centuries of -the Panama Canal," "America's Foreign Relations" - -Honorary Professor of the History of American Foreign -Relations in New York University - -_WITH ILLUSTRATIONS_ - -VOLUME FIVE - -[Illustration] - -NEW YORK - -B. F. BUCK & COMPANY, INC. - -156 FIFTH AVENUE - -1920 - -Copyright, 1920, -BY CENTURY HISTORY CO. - -_All rights reserved_ - -ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL -LONDON, ENGLAND. - -PRINTED IN U. S. A. - - -REPUBLICA DE CUBA - -SECRETARIA DE AGRICULTURA, COMERCIO Y TRABAJO - - -Habana, Cuba, -July 11, 1919. - -TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: - -The information in this volume pertaining to Cuba and her natural -resources, climate, soil, mines, forests, fisheries, agricultural -products, lands, rivers, harbors, mountains, mineral zones, quarries, -foreign and domestic commerce, business opportunities, etc., has been -compiled under the auspices of the Department of Agriculture, Commerce -and Labor, and has been verified by the Bureau of Information. - -It is intended to acquaint the world with the truth and actual facts in -regard to Cuba, and for the guidance of those who may be interested. - -Respectfully, - -[Illustration: signature] - -SECRETARY OF AGRICULTURE - -COMMERCE & LABOR. - - - - -PREFACE - - -Nature designed Cuba for greatness. That salient fact is written large -and clear upon every page of the island's history. He must lack vision -who can not discern it even in the annals of political, military and -social development of the Cuban nation. Although one of the earliest -lands in the Western Hemisphere to be discovered and colonized, it was -actually the last of all to be erected into political independence and -thus to enter into an opportunity for improving fully the incomparable -opulence of its natural endowment. No land ever shows of what it is -capable until it is permitted to do so for its own sake and in its own -name. - -During the long and tedious centuries of Spanish domination, therefore, -the resources of Cuba remained largely latent. That is to be said in -full view of the notorious fact that the island was openly declared to -be "the milch cow of Spain." In those two facts appears perhaps the most -impressive of all possible testimonies to the surpassing richness of the -island. If while it was a mere colony, only partially developed and -indeed with its resources only in part explored and imperfectly -understood, and with the supreme incentive to enterprise denied it--if -in these unfavorable circumstances, we say, it could be a source of so -great revenue to Spain and in spite of thus being plundered and drained -could still accumulate so considerable a competence for its own people, -what must its material opulence prove to be under its own free rule, -with every advantage and every encouragement for its full development -according to the knowledge of Twentieth Century science? - -We need not be fanciful or visionary if we believe that some important -purpose was subserved in such withholding of Cuba from complete -development until so late a date. Her neighbors went on ahead, -developing their resources, and passing through all the political and -social vicissitudes of which colonial and national experience is -capable, inevitably with a great proportion of sheer loss through -ill-directed experimentation. Cuba on the contrary remained held in -abeyance until in the fulness of time she could profit from the -experience and example of others and thus gain her development at a -minimum of effort and expense and with a maximum of net profit. - -The beneficent design of nature, to which we have alluded, is to be -seen, moreover, in the inherent conditions of insular existence. No -other great island of the world is so fortunate in its geographical -placing, either strategically or climatically, nor is any other -comparable with it in topography and material arrangement and -composition. It lies midway between the two great continents of the -Western Hemisphere, within easy reach of both across landlocked seas, -where it receives the commerce of both and serves as a mart of exchange -between them. Similarly it lies between the Temperate Zone and the -Torrid Zone, so as to receive at its very doors the products of each and -of both, the products, that is to say, of all the world. Nor is it less -significant that it lies directly upon the line of commerce and travel -not only between North and South but equally between East and West, on -the line of passage between the Atlantic and the Pacific and between the -lands which border the one and those which occupy the shores of the -other. Such strategic position--the strategy of commerce--is unique and -incommensurable in value. - -Equally beneficent is the climatic situation of Cuba. Mathematically -lying just within the tropical zone, it in fact enjoys a temperance of -climate surpassing that of the temperate zone itself. It has all the -geniality of the regions which lie to the south of it, so that it can -produce all the fruits of the sultry tropics in profusion throughout a -year-round season of growth; yet it escapes the oppressive and -enervating heat which makes life in those lands burdensome to the -visitor and indolent to the native. It has the comfort and the tonic -properties of northern climes, yet without the trying and sometimes -disastrous fluctuations and extremes which too often there prevail. As a -result, Cuba can produce, if not always in fullest perfection yet with a -gratifying degree of success, practically all the vegetable life of the -world, from that which thrives close to the Arctic Circle to that which -luxuriates upon the Equator. - -In coastal contour, and thus in profusion of fine harbors, Cuba enjoys -preeminence among the countries of the world. In varied contour of -mountain, valley and plain, in endowment with springs and rivers, she is -conspicuously fortunate. The often quoted tribute which her first -discoverer paid spontaneously to her magic beauty has been repeated and -confirmed uncounted times, with a deeper significance as it has been -found that the beauty of this island is not merely superficial but -intrinsic, and that Cuba is as hospitable to the interests and welfare -of the visitor and resident as she is fair to the passing eye. - -It is a grateful task to dwell in these pages upon the varied and -opulent resources of the island, in all the natural conditions of the -mineral, the vegetable and the animal kingdoms. We shall see that the -hopes and dreams of the early conquerors, of rich mines of gold, have -been far more than realized in other ways which they knew not of. The -mines of what they regarded as base metals, and of metals unknown to -them, are richer far than they ever hoped deposits of the "precious" -metal to be, while the products of forests and plantations are -immeasurably richer still. Today Cuba stands before the world a -Treasure Island of incomparable worth even in her present estate, and of -an assured potentiality of future opulence which dazzles the -imagination. - -We shall see, too, most grateful and inspiring of all, how at last the -people of Cuba have come into their own and are improving the vast -endowment with which nature has so bounteously provided them. It has -been only since they gained their independence that they could or would -do this; the result being that a score of years have seen more progress -than the twenty score preceding. Indeed we may say that the great bulk -of this progress has been achieved in the last six or seven years, the -earlier years of independence being unfortunately marred with untoward -circumstances of dissension and revolt which held in check the progress -which the island should have made. But with the final establishment of a -government capable of fulfilling all its appropriate functions, the -advance of Cuba has been and is to-day swift and unerring. - -The taking advantage of natural conditions and resources through -scientific applications, the organization and administration of such -governmental institutions as best conduce to the security, the -prosperity and the happiness of a self-governing people, are agreeable -themes to contemplate and are profitable to study. We shall see how -agriculture, mining, manufactures and commerce have been promoted in -both extent and character. We shall see how all parts of the island -realm have been made accessible, for business or for pleasure, with -railroads and a marvellous system of highways for motor vehicles. We -shall learn of the sanitation of what was once a pestilence infested -land until it has become one of the three or four most healthful in the -world. - -We shall see, too, the practical creation and universal development of a -scheme of free popular education which to-day gives to what was within -the memory of living men one of the most illiterate of countries such -school facilities as scarcely any other can surpass. If we were writing -in this volume of some long-established Commonwealth, with many -generations, perhaps centuries, of progress and culture behind it, we -should not be able to restrain our admiration of much that has been -accomplished. When we consider that we are writing of a land that -suffered nearly four centuries of repression and oppression, followed by -a dozen years of devastating strife, and less than twenty years ago -began to live the free life of a sovereign people, we are entranced with -amazement at the memory of what Cuba has been, with appreciation of what -she is, and with the assured promise of what she is to be. - -It was a fascinating task to trace the story of her existence in its -many phases, largely of vicissitude, from the days of Diego Velasquez to -those of Mario Menocal. But that after all was a record of what has -been, of what has largely passed away. More welcome is it to contemplate -what Cuba actually is, in present realization and achievement, and to -scan with sane and discriminating vision the prospect of what she may be -and what, we may well believe with confidence, she will be. It is to -reveal the actual Cuba of to-day, and to suggest the surely promised -Cuba of to-morrow, that these pages are written. So far as they may seem -technical and statistical, their very dryness contains a potency of -suggestion surpassing the dreams of romance. So far as they may seem -touched with imagination, speculation, enthusiasm, they are still based -upon the practical and indubitable foundation of ascertained facts. -Their aim is to present to the world an accurate, comprehensive and -sympathetic living picture of the Twentieth Century Republic of Cuba, -and as such they are submitted to the reader with a cheerful confidence, -if not always in the adequacy of its treatment, at least in the -unfailing interest and merit of the theme. - -January, 1920. - -WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON. - - - - -CONTENTS - - PAGE - -CHAPTER I. THE PEOPLE OF CUBA.....1 - -The People of Cuba--Hospitality Their Characteristic--Love of -Children--Founders of the Cuban Nation from the Southern Provinces of -Spain--An Admixture of French Blood--Immigration from Northern -Spain--English, Irish, Italian and German Immigrants--Colonists from the -United States. - -CHAPTER II. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF CUBA.....10 - -The Topography of Cuba--Five Distinct Zones--The Mountain -Ranges--Plateaus and Plains--The Highest Peak in Cuba--The Organ -Mountains--Beautiful Valleys and Fertile Plains--Action of the Water -Courses--Character of the Soil. - -CHAPTER III. THE CLIMATE OF CUBA.....19 - -The Climate of Cuba--Freedom from Extremes of Temperature--Influence of -the Trade Winds--No Ice and Little Frost--The Rainy Season and the Dry -Season--Gloomy Days Practically Unknown. - -CHAPTER IV. PROVINCE OF HAVANA.....21 - -The Province of Havana--The Pivotal Province of the Island--Visits by -Columbus and Velasquez--Topography of the Province--Soil and -Products--Agricultural Wealth--The Fruit Industry--Manufacturing--The -Harbor of Havana--Transportation Facilities--The Water Supply--The -Climate--The Seat of Government and Social Centre of the Island. - -CHAPTER V. PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO.....34 - -The Province of Pinar del Rio--A Picturesque Region--Interesting -Topography--The Organ Mountains--The Vinales Valley--A Rare Palm -Tree--Hard Wood Timber--Agriculture--Harbors and Fishing -Interests--Tobacco Lands of the Vuelta Abajo--Coffee -Plantations--Mineral Resources. - -CHAPTER VI. PROVINCE OF MATANZAS.....49 - -The Province of Matanzas--Comparatively Unimportant in History--A Great -Drainage and Traffic Canal--Rivers and Mountains--The Coast and -Islands--The Henequen Industry--The City of Matanzas--The Caves of -Bellamar--Sugar Production--Mineral Resources. - -CHAPTER VII. PROVINCE OF SANTA CLARA.....60 - -The Province of Santa Clara--A Land of Great Variety of Scenes--Ancient -Gold-Seeking--The Mountain Ranges--Rich Lands of the Parks and -Valleys--Rivers and Lakes--Harbors--Cities of the Province--The "Swamp -of the Shoe"--Forests, Sugar Plantations, Tobacco, and -Coffee--Opportunities for Stock Raising. - -CHAPTER VIII. PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY.....71 - -The Province of Camaguey--Where Columbus First Landed--In the Days of -Velasquez--Events of the Ten Years' War--Topography of the -Province--Mountain Ranges--Rivers and Coastal Lagoons--Harbors--Lack of -Railroads--The Sugar Industry--Minerals--American Colonies--Some Noted -Men. - -CHAPTER IX. PROVINCE OF ORIENTE.....83 - -The Province of Oriente--Area and Topography--Mountains and Rivers--Fine -Harbors--Great Sugar Mills--Scene of the First Spanish Settlement in -Cuba--The Bay of Guantanamo--Santiago de Cuba--Copper -Mines--Manzanillo--The Cauto Valley--Sugar Plantations and Stock -Ranches--Timber and Minerals--American Colonies. - -CHAPTER X. THE ISLE OF PINES.....99 - -The Isle of Pines--An Integral Part of Cuba--American Settlements and -Claims--Character of the Island--Infertile and Storm Swept--Vast -Deposits of Muck--Marble Quarries--Efforts to Promote Agricultural -Interests. - -CHAPTER XI. MINES AND MINING.....104 - -Mines and Mining--The Early Quest of Gold--First Working of Copper -Mines--The Wealth of El Cobre--Copper in All Parts of Cuba--Operations -in Pinar del Rio--Vast Iron Deposits in Oriente--Nickel and -Manganese--Exports of Ore--American Investigation of Chrome -Deposits--Many Beds of Great Richness--Manganese and Chrome for All the -World. - -CHAPTER XII. ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM.....126 - -Asphalt and Petroleum--Ocampo's Early Discovery at Puerto -Carenas--Humboldt's Reports of Petroleum Wells--Prospecting for Oil in -Many Places--Some Promising Wells--Asphalt Deposits of Great -Value--Prospects for Important Petroleum Developments. - -CHAPTER XIII. FORESTRY.....135 - -Forestry--Vast Resources of Fine Woods Recklessly Squandered in Early -Times--Houses Built of Mahogany--Hundreds of Varieties of Valuable -Timber Trees--A Catalogue of Sixty of the Most Useful--Need of -Transportation for the Lumber Trade--Forests Owned by the State. - -CHAPTER XIV. AGRICULTURE.....144 - -Agriculture--The Chief Interest of Cuba--Fertility of Soil, Geniality of -Climate, and Variety of Products--The Rainfall--Many Farmers -Specialists--The Government's Experimental Station--Opportunities for -Stock-Raising--Work of the Department of Agriculture--Its Various -Bureaus--Value of Experimental Work Begun by General Wood and Extended -by President Menocal--Improving Live Stock--Fruit Growing--Grains and -Grasses--Combating Insect Pests--Bureau of Plant Sanitation. - -CHAPTER XV. SUGAR.....160 - -"King Cane"--Cuba's Crop and the World's Production--Natural Conditions -Favorable to Sugar Culture--Extent of Lands Still Available--The -"Savana" and "Cienaga" Lands--Assured Projects for Draining Great -Swamps--Potential Increase of Sugar Production in Cuba--Methods of -Planting, Culture and Harvesting--The Labor Problem--Improved -Machinery--Something About the Principal Sugar Producing Concerns in -Cuba and the Men Who Have Created Them and Are Directing Them--The -Largest Sugar Company in the World--Cuba's Assured Rank as the World's -Chief Sugar Plantation. - -CHAPTER XVI. TOBACCO.....183 - -The Tobacco Industry--First European Acquaintance with the Plant--The -Famous Fields of the Vuelta Abajo--Immense Productivity--Methods of -Culture and Harvesting--Various Regions of Tobacco Culture--Insect -Pests--Wholesale Use of Cheesecloth Canopies--Monetary Importance of the -Industry. - -CHAPTER XVII. HENEQUEN.....190 - -The Henequen Industry--The Source of Binding Twine for the Wheat -Fields--Cuban Plantations Now Surpassing Those of Yucatan--Methods of -Growth and Manufacture--Magnitude of the Industry and Possibilities of -Further Extension. - -CHAPTER XVIII. COFFEE.....197 - -The Coffee Industry--Early Plantations Which Were Neglected and -Abandoned--An Attractive Industry--Methods of Culture--Harvesting and -Marketing the Crop--Government Encouragement Being Given for Extension -of the Industry. - -Chapter XIX. The Mango.....203 - -The Mango--The King of Oriental Fruits--Two Distinct Types in Cuba--All -Varieties Prolific--The Trees and the Fruits--Some of the Favorite -Varieties--Marketing and Use. - -CHAPTER XX. CITRUS FRUITS.....211 - -Citrus Fruits--American Introduction of the Commercial -Industry--Varieties of Oranges--Comparison with Florida and California -Fruit--Grape Fruit in the Isle of Pines--Limes and Wild Oranges. - -CHAPTER XXI. BANANAS, PINEAPPLES AND OTHER FRUITS.....219 - -Antiquity and Universality of the Banana--Its Many Uses--Commercial -Cultivation in Cuba--Methods of Culture--Varieties--Pineapple Culture in -Cuba--One of the Staple Crops--Difficulty of Marketing--The Canning -Industry--The Fruit of the Anon--The Zapote or Sapodilla--The -Tamarind--The Mamey--The Guava--The Mamoncillo--Figs of All -Varieties--The Aguacate. - -CHAPTER XXII. GRAPES, CACAO, AND VANILLA.....232 - -Grape Culture Discouraged by Spain--Recent Development of the -Industry--Much Wine Drinking but Little Drunkenness--Food and Drink in -the Cacao--The Chocolate Industry--Culture and Manufacture of Cacao--The -Vanilla Bean--Methods of Gathering and Preparing the Crop. - -CHAPTER XXIII. VEGETABLE GROWING.....240 - -Vegetable Growing in Cuba--Regions Most Suitable for the Industry--Seed -Brought from the United States--Winter Crops of Potatoes--Green Peppers -a Profitable Crop--Cultivation of Tomatoes and Egg Plants--Okra--Lima -Beans and String Beans--Squashes and Pumpkins--Desirability of the -Canning Industry--Utility of Irrigation--Prospects of Profit in Truck -Farming. - -CHAPTER XXIV. STANDARD GRAINS AND FORAGE.....248 - -Indian Corn Indigenous--Improvements in Culture Desirable--Millet or -Kaffir Corn--Neglect of Wheat Growing--Culture of Upland -Rice--Possibilities of Swamp Rice Culture--Profusion of Meadow and -Pasture Grasses--Experiments with Alfalfa--Cultivation of Cow Peas and -Beans--Peanut Plantations. - -CHAPTER XXV. ANIMALS.....257 - -Paucity of Native Fauna--Deer, Caprimys and Ant Eaters--The Sand Hill -Crane--Guinea Fowls, Turkeys and Quails--Buzzards, Sparrow Hawks, -Mocking Birds and Wild Pigeons--Varieties of Parrots--The Oriole--The -Tody--The Lizard Cuckoo--The Trogon--Water Birds. - -CHAPTER XXVI. STOCK RAISING.....263 - -Introduction of Horses and Cattle by the Spaniards--Improvement in the -Quality of Stock--A Favorable Land for Cattle Ranges--Importation of -Blooded Stock from the United States and Europe--Introduction of the -Zebu--Great Profits in Hog Raising--Forage, Nuts and Root Crops for -Stock Food--Sheep and Goat Raising for Wool, Meat and Hides--Value of -the Angora Goat. - -CHAPTER XXVII. POULTRY: BEES: SPONGES.....278 - -Recent Scientific Development of the Poultry Industry--President -Menocal's Importations of Choice Stock--Opportunities for -Agriculture--Wild and Domesticated Bees--Varieties of Honey Yielding -Flowers--Large Exportations of Wax and Honey--Valuable Sponge Fisheries -on the Cuban Coast. - -CHAPTER XXVIII. PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST.....284 - -Historic Interest of Havana Harbor--The Romance and Tragedy of El -Morro--"The Twelve Apostles"--The Vast Fortress of La Cabaa--The "Road -Without Hope"--A Scene of Slaughter--Cells of the Fortress Prison--The -Castillo de Punta--The Ancient City Walls--The Romance of La -Fuerza--Ancient Churches and Convents of Havana--The Cathedral and the -Tomb of Columbus--The San Francisco Convent--San Agustin--La -Merced--Santa Catalina--Santo Angel--Santa Clara--The Convent of -Belen--The Old Echarte Mansion--La Chorrera--Fort Cojimar--Some Ancient -Watch Towers and Fortresses--The Botanical Gardens. - -CHAPTER XXIX. HAVANA.....303 - -The Charms of Havana--Early History of the City--Made the Capital of -Cuba--The Quarries from Which It Was Built--Something About Its -Principal Streets and Buildings--Various Sections of the City--On the -Road to the Almandares--Principe Hill--The University of Havana--The -Famous Prado--The National Theatre--The Central Park and Parque de -Colon--Colon Cemetery--Music in Havana--Favorite Drives and Resorts--The -Bathing Beach--Fishing--Jai Alai--Baseball--Horse -Racing--Golf--Buildings of the Various Government Departments--Memories -of the Old Presidential Palace--Some Fine New Buildings--The New -Presidential Palace--The New Capitol--The National Hospital. - -CHAPTER XXX. A PARADISE OF PALM DRIVES.....326 - -A Paradise of Palm Drives--Splendor of the Flamboyans--The Road to -Guines--A Fine Drive to Matanzas--Roads from Havana to Guanajay, -Artemisa and the Ruby Hills--Old Military Roads Improved and -Extended--Fine Drives in Pinar del Rio--The Valley of Vinales--Some -Wonderful Landscapes and Seascapes--Roads Radiating from Matanzas--The -Roads of Santa Clara and Camaguey--Road Making Among the Mountains of -Oriente. - -CHAPTER XXXI. BAYS AND HARBORS.....340 - -The Bays and Harbors of the Cuban Coasts--Bahia -Honda--Cabanas--Mariel--Havana--Matanzas--The Land-Locked Bay of -Cardenas--Santa Clara Bay--Sagua--Caibarien--The Bay of -Nuevitas--Manati--Puerto -Padre--Gibara--Banes--Nipe--Levisa--Baracoa--Guantanamo--Santiago--Manzanillo--Cienfuegos--Batabano--Santa -Cruz--Various Other Ports, Great and Small. - -CHAPTER XXXII. RAILROAD SYSTEMS IN CUBA.....353 - -Origin of the Railroad Systems of Cuba--The United Railways of -Havana--The Matanzas Railway--Electric Lines Around Havana--The Great -Work of Sir William Van Horne--The Cuba Company's Railroad System--The -Cuba Central Road--The North Shore Line--Other Lines and Branches -Existing or Projected. - -CHAPTER XXXIII. MONEY AND BANKING.....361 - -Money and Banking in Cuba--The First Currency of the Island--The First -Monetary Crisis at Havana--Development of Modern Coinage and -Currency--Single Standard and Double Standard--Colonial Paper -Money--Stabilization of Currency Under American Rule--Statistics of -Shipments of Money--Coinage of Cuban Money Under the New -System--Financing the Foreign Commerce of the Island. - -CHAPTER XXXIV. PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.....367 - -The Educational System of Cuba--Influences of Clericalism--Work of -General Wood and Mr. Frye--Cooperation of Harvard University--Dr. -Lincoln de Zayas--The Teaching of English--Progress Under President -Menocal--Scope of the System--Some Special Schools--Normal Schools--The -Institute of Havana--The National University--Cooperation with the -United States--The Free Public Library. - -CHAPTER XXXV. OCEAN TRANSPORTATION.....376 - -Importance of Ocean Transportation to the Insular Republic--Development -of the United Fruit Company--The Ward Line and Its Fleet--A Network of -Communications with All Parts of the World--Service of the Munson -Line--The Peninsular and Occidental Company--The Railroad Ferry Service -from Key West to Cuba--The Pinillos Izquierdo Line from Spain--The -Morgan or Southern Pacific Line--The Great Fleet of the Compagnie -General Transatlantique--A New Line from Japan--Customs Regulations--The -Consular Service of Cuba. - -CHAPTER XXXVI. AMERICAN COLONIES IN CUBA.....390 - -American Colonies in Cuba--Founded After the War of -Independence--Pernicious Activities of Unscrupulous American -Speculators--Heroic Efforts of Illfounded Colonies--The Story of La -Gloria and Its Neighbors--Colonization of the Isle of Pines--The Colony -of Herradura--Various Colonies in Oriente--Inducements to Further -Colonization. - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -FULL PAGE PLATES - -Francisco de Fri _Frontispiece_ - - FACING - PAGE - -The Vinales Valley 36 - -San Juan River, Matanzas 54 - -On the Cauto River 92 - -National Theatre, Central Park, Havana 144 - -The Gomez Building 190 - -Pablo Desvernine 284 - -In New Havana 296 - -Colon Park 306 - -An Avenue of Palms 326 - -Grand Central Railway Station, Havana 354 - -Leopoldo Cancio 362 - -The Chamber of Commerce, Havana 376 - - -TEXT EMBELLISHMENTS - -City Hall and Plaza, Cardenas Page 56 - -A Mountain Road, Oriente " 84 - -Cuban Rural Home " 145 - -Fruit Vender, Havana " 209 - - - - -THE HISTORY OF CUBA - - - - -CHAPTER I - -THE PEOPLE OF CUBA - - -In the last analysis, of course, the people of a country have much to do -in making it what it is, or what it may be. From them must come the -life, energy, character and development. They will regulate its social -standing and fulfill the promise of its future. Society in Cuba, as in -nearly all long settled countries, is many sided, and while resembling, -more or less, that of all civilized communities, certain racial traits -stand out prominently in the Island Republic. - -If asked to name the most prominent or salient characteristics -dominating the Cuban race, we should probably be justified in saying: -unfailing hospitality, exceptional courtesy, and unmeasurable love of -children. - -Hospitality in Cuba is not a pose, but on the contrary is perfectly -natural, having descended from a long line of ancestors, as have the -beauty of eyes and teeth and color of hair. Hospitality among those of -higher education, like courtesy, is tempered with good form that -breeding has rendered an essential characteristic of the individual. -Journeying through the rural or remote sections, it is so manifestly -genuine that unless held back or retarded through diffidence or -suspicion, no one can avoid being deeply impressed with the extent to -which hospitality has pervaded every corner of the country. - -John B. Henderson, the naturalist, in his "Cruise of the Barrera," -refers to an occasion when, after serving coffee in the house of a -native family living far from contact with the outside world, a dollar -had been surreptitiously given to a child; and when the guests, whom he -had never seen before, were quite a mile away, the father came running -breathlessly down the mountain path to return the money, which he said -he could not possibly accept under any circumstances. - -True courtesy, also, has kept hospitality close company in all grades of -society. Among the higher ranks of scholars, statesmen and Government -officials, the visitor who by chance has occasion to call on the Chief -of any Department, if said individual belongs to the old type of genuine -nobility, from the moment he crosses the threshold will note certain -polite forms that, while never obtrusive, are always in evidence. - -No word, gesture or deed will come from the host that can possibly jar -the sensibilities of the visitor, no matter what his errand may be. -During his stay, courtesy will seem to pervade the atmosphere, and the -caller cannot help feeling absolutely at home. Upon leaving, he will be -made to feel that he has been more than welcome, and even if the topic -discussed or the nature of the errand has been delicate, he will realize -that he has been given all the consideration that one gentleman could -expect of another. - -The educated Cuban is by birth, by nature and by training, a polished -gentleman and a diplomat; a man who will be at ease in any position, no -matter how difficult, and whose superior, socially or intellectually, is -seldom found in any court, committee or congregation of men. This all -prevailing trait of courtesy is also surprisingly manifest among those -who have had no advantages of education, and who have been denied the -wonderfully civilizing influence of travel and contact with the outside -world. Nor is this trait of courtesy and self possession confined by any -means to the man. - -Love of children, and willingness to make any sacrifice for their -happiness, are perhaps exaggerated developments of the motherly -instinct. A man will be polite to you in Cuba even if he intends to sign -your death warrant the next moment. A Cuban mother will yield to any -caprice of her children, even although she may realize that in so doing -she endangers their future. As a result, Cuban children, although -lovable and affectionate, are not always well behaved or gentle -mannered. Still this depends largely, as it would in any country, on the -temperament and education of the mother, who in Cuba has all to do -towards forming the character of the child, especially the daughter, in -whose "bringing up" the father is supposed to take no immediate interest -or part. - -The love which parents, rich or poor, educated or ignorant, bestow on -their children, no matter how many little ones may compose the family, -or how small the purse which feeds them, is proverbial. No child, even -of a far removed relative, is ever permitted to enter an institution of -charity if it can be avoided, but will find instead an immediate and -hearty welcome in the family of a man who may not know at times where to -look for money for the next day's meal. - -The original stock from which sprang the natives of Cuba, and from which -many of their traits undoubtedly came, reverts back to the followers of -Columbus, and to the old time conquerors of Mexico and the New World. -These gentlemanly adventurers were mostly from the southern provinces of -the Iberian Peninsula, whose blood was more or less mixed with that of -the Moor, and whose chief physical characteristics were regularity of -features, beauty of eyes, teeth and hair, and whose mental attributes -were dominated by pride, ambition, love of pomp and ceremony, with great -powers of endurance, a strong aversion to ordinary forms of labor, -exceptional courtesy, and an intelligence frequently marred with almost -unbelievable cruelty. - -These original pioneers or soldiers of fortune in Cuba found the climate -exceedingly to their liking and, after love of conquest and adventure -had been tempered by increasing years, and the possible accumulation of -modest means, they settled down to quiet and fairly industrious lives -in the Pearl of the Antilles. From them sprang the true Cuban race, in -which still remain many of the physical, moral, and intellectual traits -of their ancestors. - -Some of these early settlers made wives of comely Indian women, whose -beauty had captured their fancy, and while the influence of the kindly, -pleasure-loving "Cubenos" has not made any deep or striking impression -on the race, it may account for the quite common fondness of display and -love of gaiety found in the Cuban of today. - -Next to the pioneers of Andalusia and southern Spain, it is probable -that the introduction of French blood has influenced the Cuban type and -life more than any other race foreign to the Island. Back in the -seventeenth century French traders and privateers made frequent visits -to Cuba, and some of them found Cuban wives, whose descendants afterward -became citizens of the country. Then again, in the very first years of -the nineteenth century, a large influx of French settlers, forced by -revolution from Santo Domingo, fled as refugees to Cuba and made for -themselves homes in Santiago and Santa Clara, whence with the increase -of Havana's distinction as the capital, many of them transferred their -abiding place to that province and to Pinar del Rio, bringing with them -their experience as coffee growers; this in the early part of the -nineteenth century, becoming one of the most important industries of the -Island. - -In the province of Havana, social life and the Cuban race itself, to a -certain extent, were influenced by the various officials and army -officers sent there from the mother country, many of whom found wives -and made homes in Havana, bringing with them the predominating traits -and customs of Madrid and other cities of Central Spain, which had given -them birth. - -In later years, when Cuba began to obtain some prominence in the -industrial and commercial world, immigrants from the mother country came -to Havana in steadily increasing numbers. These were mostly from Galicia -and other northern coast provinces of Spain. They were a plodding, -frugal and industrious people, who, leaving a country that offered -little compensation for the hardest forms of labor, found easier work -and higher pay in Spain's favorite colony. - -The Gallego in Cuba, however, prefers the life of the city, in which he -plays quite an important part, since beginning at the very bottom of the -ladder, through patient thrift and industry, maintained throughout a -comparatively few years, he often succeeds in becoming the proprietor of -a bodega, the ubiquitous barber shop, the corner caf, or the sumptuous -hotel on the Prado. - -In the commercial life of the Island, he has a serious rival in the -Catalan, who, while possessed of many of the traits of the hard working -son of Galicia, is perhaps his superior in establishing successful -enterprises of larger scope. The Catalan seldom if ever fails in -business, and in energy, persistence and keen foresight, is quite the -equal of those most famous of all traders and men of commerce, the sons -of Israel. - -Since the capture of Havana in 1763, when some of the members of the -English army, captivated by the climate, concluded to remain there -permanently, a small influx of English immigrants may be traced along -through the past century, but never in sufficient numbers to play a very -important part in the social or economical life of the country. -Nevertheless, those who came and remained as permanent residents of -Cuba, brought with them the elements of courage, thrift and integrity -which characterize the English colonist in all parts of the world. -Strange to relate, the general rule in regard to the unconformity of the -English, when living in foreign climes, does not seem to apply in Cuba. - -The immigrant from Great Britain, who settled in Cuba, while leaving the -imprint of his character on his descendants, has nevertheless, sooner or -later, become in many respects a typical native of the country, adopting -even the language, and using it as his own, while his children, bright -blue eyed and keenly intelligent, are often permitted to remain -ignorant of their paternal tongue. Hence it is that we frequently meet -with Robert Smith, Henry Brown, Herbert Clews, Frank Godoy, Tom -Armstrong and Billy Patterson, sons or grandsons of former British -subjects, who would look at you in doubt and fail to comprehend if -saluted with such a common phrase as "a fine day" in English. Cuba has -appreciated the sterling value of the small English immigration that has -come to her shores, and only regrets that there is not more of it. - -Quite a large sprinkling from the Emerald Isle have become permanent -residents of Cuba, and aside, perhaps, from a little trace of the -original brogue, it would be hard to distinguish them from the wide -awake Gallegos. The men of no race will so quickly adjust themselves to -circumstances, and become, as it were, members of the family, no matter -whether they settle in France, Italy, Spain, Cuba or the United States, -as will the immigrants from Ireland. The Irishman brings with him, and -always retains, his light-hearted, go-as-you-please and -take-it-as-it-comes characteristics, no matter where he settles. More -than all, the Irishman seldom makes trouble in any country but his own, -and seems not only content, but quite willing, to accept the customs of -his adopted country, even to the point of "running it" if opportunity -offers. - -Why more Italians have not settled in Cuba, a country that in many -respects resembles some sections of southern Italy, is not easy to -determine, although it is probably due to a lack of propaganda on the -part of the Republic itself. Occasional commercial houses are found, -owned by Italians who have been residents there for many years, and a -few of the laboring class, seeking higher wages within the last few -years, have made their homes in Havana. Marvellous opportunities in the -various fields of agriculture wait the keen witted thrifty Italian in -Cuba. The certainty of a competence, if not a fortune, in small stock -raising and grape growing, evidently has not been brought to his -attention, otherwise more would have come and settled permanently in a -country with whose people, in their fondness for music, their religious -and social customs, they have much in common. - -Of the Germans, of whom quite a number came to Cuba within the last -thirty years, a different tale is told. The Teuton who roams abroad -seems to come always with a definite purpose. He is diplomatic, -courteous, observing, hard working, but essentially selfish in his -motives, and makes no move the object of which is not to impress on the -land he visits, or in which he may become a permanent resident, every -custom, tradition and practice of the Fatherland that can possibly be -implanted in the country that has given him shelter or social -recognition. His club, his habits, his beer, his songs, his language and -his precepts of "Deutscher Ueber Alles," are spread to the utmost of his -ability. But the German has been efficient and has catered in all his -commercial dealings to the customs, caprices and even to the vices or -weaknesses of the people with whom he trades and comes in contact. Hence -it is that, up to the outbreak of the war of 1914, Germany certainly had -the advantage over every competitor for trade from the Rio Grande to -Patagonia. - -Strange as it may seem, although Cuba is no farther from American -territory in Florida than is Philadelphia from the City of New York, -there was very little immigration from the United States and almost no -citizens of that country, in spite of the attractions of the Pearl of -the Antilles, had apparently ever thought of making a home in Cuba, -until the Spanish-American War brought an army of occupation to the City -of Havana in the fall of 1898. - -Following this army, as a result perhaps of favorable reports that came -from the lips of returning soldiers, quite an influx of Americans, -actuated by curiosity or motives of trade, came to Cuba and remained -here permanently, many marrying into Cuban families, purchasing farms, -or establishing branch houses and independent industries in the Island -Republic. Most of these have succeeded socially and financially. - -The larger part of the American settlers of 1900 came from Florida, and -the Gulf States, although scattered throughout the various colonies of -the Island are found people from almost every State of the Union. While -the greater part of them, owing to the attractiveness and to better -transportation facilities have remained in or near Havana, quite a -number have settled in the Province of Camaguey, most of whom have -prospered there as stock raisers and followers of agricultural -industries. - -The American as a rule, although of little experience as a colonizer, -has nevertheless readily adapted himself to circumstances, and had made -fast friends in his new surroundings. Many broad and excellent changes -have been brought about by this influx of citizens from the sister -Republic of the North. Most important of all was the introduction of an -excellent system of modern sanitation which the Cuban has appreciated -and followed with zeal. The absolute elimination of yellow fever and -every other disease common to the tropics, can be placed to the credit -of the country that became sponsor for Cuban Independence. - -To this immigration may be attributed, also, many changes in Cuban -social life, especially the gradually broadening sphere of activity -among Cuban women, and the removal of some of the social barriers which -from the immemorial had placed her in the position of a treasured toy, -rather than that of an independent partner, and a responsible unit in -the game of life. - -The impress of American influence on education, too, has been very -great, since almost the first move of the military forces that took -charge of the Island's affairs with the exit of Spanish authority was to -establish in Cuba a public school system, and modern ideas of education. - -To the American farmer and fruit grower of Florida was due also the -introduction of the citrus fruit industry, and the growing of -vegetables on a large scale for the northern market, and while these -enterprises are still, to a certain extent, in their infancy, many -millions of dollars have been added thus to the wealth of the Island. In -spite of what has been done, truth compels the statement, however, that -in the United States really little is known of Cuba and her -opportunities, although from the beginning of that country as a nation, -aside from Mexico, geographically Cuba has been her closest neighbor. - -There are great possibilities for American enterprise in the Island -Republic, in agriculture, in stock raising, mining and other industries -that American genius in the near future will undoubtedly discover and -develop. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -THE TOPOGRAPHY OF CUBA - - -Topographically the surface of Cuba may be divided into five rather -distinct zones, three of which are essentially mountainous. The first -includes the entire eastern third of the province of Oriente, together -with the greater part of its coast line, where the highest mountains of -the Island are found. The second includes the greater part of the -province of Camaguey, made up of gently rolling plains broken by -occasional hills or low mountains, that along the northern coast, and -again in the southeast center of the Province, rise to a height of -approximately 1500 feet above the general level. - -The next is a mountainous district including the greater part of eastern -Santa Clara. The fourth comprises the western portion of this province -together with all of Matanzas and Havana. The surface of this middle -section is largely made up of rolling plains, broken here and there by -hills that rise a few hundred feet above the sea level. - -The fifth includes the province of Pinar del Rio, the northern half of -which is traversed from one end to the other by several more or less -parallel ranges of sierras, with mean altitudes ranging from 1,000 to -2,000 feet, leaving the southern half of the Province a flat plain, into -which, along its northern edge, project spurs and foothills of the main -range. - -The highest mountains of Cuba are located in the province of Oriente, -where their general elevation is somewhat higher than that of the -Allegheny or eastern ranges of the United States. The mountainous area -of this province is greater than that of the combined mountain areas of -all other parts of the Island. The mountains occur in groups, composed -of different kinds of rock, and have diverse structures, more or less -connected with one another. - -The principal range is the Sierra Maestra, extending from Cabo Cruz to -the Bay of Guantanamo, forty miles east of Santiago. This chain is -continuous and of fairly uniform altitude, with the exception of a break -in the vicinity of Santiago where the wide basin of Santiago Bay cuts -across the main trend of the range. The highest peak of the Island is -known as Turquino, located near the middle of the Sierra Maestra, and -reaching an altitude of 8,642 feet. - -The hills back of Santiago Bay, separating it from the Valley of the -Cauto, are similar in structure to the northern foothills of the main -sierra. In the western part of the range, the mountains rise abruptly -from the depths of the Caribbean Sea, but near the City of Santiago, and -to the eastward, they are separated from the ocean by a narrow coastal -plain, very much dissected. The streams which traverse it occupy valleys -several hundred feet in depth, while the remnants of the plateau appear -in the tops of the hills. - -East of Guantanamo Bay there are mountains which are structurally -distinct from the Sierra Maestra, and these continue to Cape Maisi, the -eastern terminus of Cuba. To the west they rise abruptly from the ocean -bed, but further east, they are bordered by terraced foothills. Towards -the north they continue straight across the Island as features of bold -relief, connecting with the rugged Cuchillas of Baracoa, and with "El -Yunque" lying to the southwest. - -Extending west from this eastern mass are high plateaus and mesas that -form the northern side of the great amphitheatre which drains into -Guantanamo Bay. Much of this section, when raised from the sea, was -probably a great elevated plain, cut up and eroded through the ages -since the seismic uplift that caused its birth. - -The most prominent feature of the northern mountains of Oriente -Province, west of "El Yunque," is the range comprising the Sierras -Cristal and Nipe. These extend east and west, but are separated into -several distinct masses by the Rio Sagua and the Rio Mayari, which break -through and empty into harbors on the north coast. The high country -south of these ranges has the character of a deeply dissected plateau, -the upper stratum of which is limestone. - -The character of the surface would indicate that nearly all the -mountains of the eastern part of Oriente have been carved through -erosion of centuries from a high plateau, the summits of which are found -in "El Yunque" near Baracoa, and other flat topped mountains within the -drainage basins of the Mayari and the Sagua rivers. The flat summits of -the Sierra Nipe are probably remnants of the same great uplift. - -Below this level are other benches or broad plateaus, the two most -prominent occurring respectively at 1500 and 2000 feet above sea level. -The highest summits rise to an altitude of 2800 or 3000 feet. The 2000 -foot plateau of the Sierra Nipe alone includes an area estimated at not -less than 40 square miles. It would seem that these elevated plateaus -with their rich soils might be utilized for the production of wheat, and -some of the northern fruits that require a cooler temperature than that -found in other parts of Cuba. - -In the province of Oriente, the various mountain groups form two -marginal ranges, which merge in the east, and diverge toward the west. -The southern range is far more continuous, while the northern is -composed of irregular groups separated by numerous river valleys. -Between these divergent ranges lies the broad undulating plain of the -famous Cauto Valley, which increases in width as it extends westward. -The northern half of this valley merges into the plains of Camaguey, -whose surface has been disturbed by volcanic uplifts only by a small -group known as the Najassa Hills, in the southeast center of the -province, and by the Sierra Cubitas Range, which parallels the coast -from the basin of Nuevitas Bay until it terminates in the isolated hill -known as Loma Cunagua. - -The central mountainous region of the Island is located in the province -of Santa Clara, where a belt of mountains and hills following -approximately northeast and southwest lines, passes through the cities -of Sancti Spiritus and Santa Clara. Four groups are found here, one of -which lies southwest of Sancti Spiritus, and east of the Rio Agabama. A -second group is included between the valleys of the Agabama and the Rio -Arimao. - -The highest peak of Santa Clara is known as Potrerillo, located seven -miles north of Trinidad, with an altitude of 2,900 feet. A third group -lies southeast of the city of Santa Clara, and includes the Sierra del -Escambray and the Alta de Agabama. The rounded hills of this region have -an altitude of about 1,000 feet although a few of the summits are -somewhat higher. - -The fourth group consists of a line of hills, beginning 25 miles east of -Sagua la Grande, and extending into the province of Camaguey. The trend -of this range is transverse to the central mountain zone as a whole, but -it conforms in direction with the general geological structure of the -region. - -East of the city of Santa Clara the hills of this last group merge with -those of the central portion of the province. The summits in the -northern line reach an altitude of only a thousand feet. The principal -members are known as the Sierra Morena, west of Sagua la Grande, Lomas -de Santa Fe, near Camaguani, the Sierra de Bamburanao, near Yaguajay, -and the Lomas of the Savanas, south of the last mentioned town. - -In the province of Pinar del Rio, we find another system, or chain of -mountains, dominated by the Sierra de los Organos or Organ mountains. -These begin a little west of Guardiana Bay, with a chain of "magotes," -known as the "Pena Blanca," composed of tertiary limestone. These are -the result of a seismic upheaval running from north to south, almost at -right angles with the main axis of the chains that form the mountainous -vertebrae of the Island. - -Between the city of Pinar del Rio and the north coast at La Esperanza, -the Organos are broken up into four or five parallel ridges, two of -which are composed of limestone, while the others are of slate, -sandstones and schists. The term "magote," in Cuba, is applied to one of -the most interesting and strikingly beautiful mountain formations in the -world. They are evidently remnants of high ranges running usually from -east to west, and have resulted from the upheaval of tertiary strata -that dates back probably to the Jurassic period. - -The soft white material of this limestone, through countless eons of -time, has been hammered by tropical rains that gradually washed away the -surface and carved their once ragged peaks into peculiar, round, -dome-shaped elevations that often rise perpendicularly to a height of -1,000 feet or more above the level grass plains that form their base. -Meanwhile the continual seepage of water formed great caverns within -that sooner or later caved in and fell, hastening thus the gradual -leveling to which all mountains are doomed as long as the world is -supplied with air and water. The softening and continual crumbling away -of the rock have formed a rich soil on which grows a wonderful wealth of -tropical vegetation, unlike anything known to other sections of Cuba, or -perhaps in the world. - -The valley of the Vinales, lying between the City of Pinar del Rio and -the north coast, might well be called the garden of the "magotes," since -not only is it surrounded by their precipitous walls, but several of -them, detached from the main chain, rise abruptly from the floor of the -valley, converting it into one of the most strangely beautiful spots in -the world. - -John D. Henderson, the naturalist, in speaking of this region, says: -"The valley of the Vinales must not be compared with the Yosemite or -Grand Canon, or some famed Alpine passage, for it cannot display the -astounding contrasts of these, or of many well-known valleys among the -higher mountains of the world. We were all of us traveled men who viewed -this panorama, but all agreed that never before had we gazed on so -charming a sight. There are recesses among the Rocky Mountains of Canada -in which one gazes with awe and bated breath, where the very silence -oppresses, and the beholder instinctively reaches out for support to -guard against slipping into the awful chasm below. But the Valley of -Vinales, on the contrary, seems to soothe and lull the senses. Like -great birds suspended in the sky, we long to soar above it, and then -alighting within some palm grove, far below, to rejoice in its -atmosphere of perfect peace." - -A mountain maze of high, round-topped lomas dominates almost the entire -northern half of Pinar del Rio. It is the picturesque remnant of an -elevated plain that at some time in the geological life of the Island -was raised above the surface 1500, perhaps 2000, feet. This, through the -erosion of thousands of centuries, has been carved into great land -surges, without any particular alignment or system. - -Straight up through the center of this mountainous area are projected a -series of more or less parallel limestone ridges. These, as a rule, have -an east and west axis, and attain a greater elevation than the lomas. -They are known as the Sierras de los Organos, although having many local -names at different points. Water and atmospheric agencies have carved -them into most fantastic shapes, so that they do, in places, present an -organ pipe appearance. They are almost always steep, often with vertical -walls or "paradones" that rise 1000 feet from the floor or base on which -they rest. - -The northernmost range, running parallel to the Gulf Coast, is known as -the "Costanero." The highest peak of Pinar del Rio is called Guajaibon, -which rises to an altitude of 3000 feet, with its base but very little -above the level of the sea. It is probably of Jurassic limestone and -forms the eastern outpost of the Costaneros. - -The southern range of the Organos begins with an interesting peak known -as the Pan de Azucar, located only a few miles east of the Pena Blanca. -From this western sentinel with many breaks extends the great southern -chain of the Organos with its various groups of "magotes," reaching -eastward throughout the entire province. At its extreme eastern terminus -we find a lower and detached ridge known as the Pan de Guanajay, which -passes for a few miles beyond the boundary line, and into the province -of Havana. - -Surrounding the Organos from La Esperanza west, and bordering it also on -the south for a short distance east of the city of Pinar del Rio, are -ranges of round topped lomas, composed largely of sandstone, slate and -shale. The surface of these is covered with the small pines, scrubby -palms and undergrowth found only on poor soil. - -From the Mulato River east, along the north coast, the character of the -lomas changes abruptly. Here we have deep rich soil covered with -splendid forests of hard woods, that reach up into the Organos some ten -miles back from the coast. Along the southern edge of the Organos, from -Herredura east, lies a charming narrow belt of rolling country covered -with a rich sandy loam that extends almost to the city of Artemisa. - -Extensions, or occasional outcroppings, of the Pinar del Rio mountain -system, appear in the province of Havana, and continue on into Matanzas, -where another short coastal range appears, just west of the valley of -the Yumuri. This, as before stated, has its continuation in detached -ridges that extend along the entire north coast, with but few -interruptions, until merged into the mountain maze of eastern Oriente. - -Outside of the mountainous districts thus described, the general surface -of Cuba is a gently undulating plain, with altitudes varying from only -a few feet above the sea level to 500 or 600 feet, near El Cristo in -Oriente. In Pinar del Rio it forms a piedmont plain that entirely -surrounds the mountain range. On the south this plain has a maximum -width of about 25 miles and ascends gradually from the shores of the -Caribbean at the rate of seven or eight feet to the mile until it -reaches the edge of the foothills along the line of the automobile -drive, connecting Havana with the capital of Pinar del Rio. - -North of the mountain range the lowland belt is very much narrower and -in some places reaches a height of 200 feet as a rule deeply dissected, -so that in places only the level of the hill tops mark the position of -the original plain. - -The two piedmont plains of Pinar del Rio unite at the eastern extremity -of the Organos Mountains and extend over the greater part of the -provinces of Havana and Matanzas and the western half of Santa Clara. -The divide as a rule is near the center of this plain, although the land -has a gradual slope from near its northern margin towards the south. - -In the neighborhood of Havana, the elevation varies between 300 and 400 -feet, continuing eastward to Cardenas. The streams flowing north have -lowered their channels as the land rose, and the surface drained by them -has become deeply dissected, while the streams flowing toward the south -have been but little affected by the elevation and remain generally in -very narrow channels. - -East of Cardenas the general elevation of the plain is low, sloping -gradually both north and south from the axis of the Island. Considerable -areas of this plain are found among the various mountain groups in the -eastern half of Santa Clara province, beyond which it extends over the -greater part of Camaguey and into Oriente. Here it reaches the northern -coast between isolated mountain groups, extending as far east as Nipe -Bay, and toward the south merges into the great Cauto Valley. - -From Cabo Cruz the plain extends along the northern base of the Sierra -Maestra to the head of the Cauto valley. Its elevation near Manzanillo -is about 200 feet, whence it increases to 640 feet at El Cristo. In the -central section of Oriente, the Cauto River and its tributaries have cut -channels into this plain from 50 to 200 feet in depth. In the lower part -of the valley these channels are sometimes several miles across and are -occupied by alluvial flats or river bottoms. They decrease in width -towards the east and in the upper part of the valley become narrow -gorges. - -A large part of this plain of Cuba, especially in the central provinces, -is underlaid by porous limestone, through which the surface waters have -found underground passages. This accounts for the fact that large areas -are occasionally devoid of flowing surface streams. The rain water sinks -into the ground as soon as it falls, and after flowing long distances -under ground, emerges in bold springs, such as those of the Almandares -that burst out of the river bank some eight miles south of the City of -Havana. Engineers of the rope and cordage plant, just north of the City -of Matanzas, while boring for water, found unexpectedly a swift, running -river, only ten feet below the surface, that has given them an -inexhaustible supply of excellent water. - -Most of the plains of Cuba above indicated have been formed by the -erosion of its surface, and are covered with residual soil derived from -the underlying limestones. Where they consist of red or black clays they -are exceedingly fertile. Certain portions of the plains, especially -those bordering on the southern side of the mountains of Pinar del Rio, -are covered with a layer of sand and gravel, washed down from the -adjoining highlands, and are inferior in fertility to soils derived from -the erosion of limestone. Similar superficial deposits are met in the -vicinity of Cienfuegos, and in other sections of the Island, where the -plain forms a piedmont adjacent to highlands composed of silicious -rocks. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE CLIMATE OF CUBA - - -Since on the climate of country depends largely its healthfulness, -nothing perhaps is of greater importance, especially to the man who -wishes to find some place where he may build his permanent home and -raise his family; to him this feature above all demands careful -consideration. - -The most striking and perhaps the most important fact in regard to the -climate of Cuba is its freedom from those extremes of temperature which -are considered prejudicial to health in any country. The difference -between the mean annual temperature of winter and that of summer is only -twelve degrees, or from 76 degrees to 88 degrees. Even between the -coldest days of winter, when the mercury once went as low as 58 degrees, -and the extreme limit of summer, registered as 92 degrees, we have a -difference of only 34 degrees; and the extremes of summer are seldom -noticed, since the fresh northeast trade winds coming from the Atlantic -sweep across the Island, carrying away with them the heated atmosphere -of the interior. - -The fact that the main axis of the Island, with its seven hundred mile -stretch of territory, extends from southeast to northwest, almost at -right angles to the general direction of the wind, plays a very -important part in the equability of Cuba's climate. Then again, the -Island is completely surrounded by oceans, the temperature of which -remains constant, and this plays an important part in preventing -extremes of heat or cold. - -Ice, of course, cannot form, and frost is found only on the tops of the -tallest mountain ranges. The few cold days during winter, when the -thermometer may drop to 60 after sundown, are the advance waves of -"Northers" that sweep down from the Dakotas, across Oklahoma and the -great plains of Texas, eventually reaching Cuba, but only after the -sting of the cold has been tempered in its passage of six hundred miles -across the Gulf of Mexico. - -A temperature of 60 degrees in Cuba is not agreeable to the natives, or -even to those residents who once lived in northern climes. This may be -due to the fact that life in the Tropics has a tendency to thin the -blood, and to render it less resistant to low temperature; and also -because Cuban residences are largely of stone, brick or reinforced -concrete, with either tile or marble floors, and have no provision -whatever against cold. And, although the walls are heavy, the windows, -doors and openings are many times larger than those of residences in the -United States, hence the cold cannot readily be excluded as in other -countries. There is said to be but one fire-place in the Island of Cuba, -and that was built in the beautiful home of an American, near Guayabal, -just to remind him, he said, of the country whence he came. - -Again in the matter of rainfall and its bearing on the climate of a -country, Cuba is very fortunate. The rains all come in the form of -showers during the summer months, from the middle of May until the end -of October, and serve to purify and temper the heat of summer. On the -other hand, the cooler months of winter are quite dry, and absolutely -free from the chilling rains, sleets, snows, mists and dampness, that -endanger the health, if not the life, of those less fortunate people who -dwell in latitudes close to 40 degrees. - -Cloudy, gloomy days are almost unknown in Cuba, and the sun can be -depended upon to shine for at least thirty days every month, and -according to the testimony of physicians nothing is better than sunshine -to eliminate the germs of contagious diseases. Hence we can truthfully -says that in the matter of climate and health, Cuba asks no favor of any -country on earth. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -PROVINCE OF HAVANA - - -The Province of Havana, with its area of 3,171 square miles, is the -smallest in Cuba, and yet, owing to the city of Havana, capital of the -Republic, it plays a very important part in the social, political and -economic life of the Island. - -Geographically, it is the pivotal province of Cuba, since the narrowest -place across the long arch-like stretch of the Island is found along the -border between Havana and Pinar del Rio, where only twenty-two miles lie -between the Mexican Gulf and the Caribbean Sea. The province proper -measures about thirty miles from north to south, with an average width -of fifty-five. - -The topography of Havana includes a varied assortment of hills, ridges, -plateaus, valleys and plains, so that the scenery never becomes -monotonous; and with the numerous automobile drives that radiate from -the Capital, shaded with the luxuriant foliage of royal palms, bamboo -and other forms of tropical vegetation, it offers to the tourist and -traveler an almost endless panorama of charming change and pleasant -surprise. The average altitude of Havana province is slightly lower than -that of either Matanzas or Pinar del Rio, bordering on the east and -west. - -Columbus, on his second voyage of discovery, cruised along the southern -coast of Cuba until he reached a point a little west of the Indian -village of Batabano. Here he heard of another island not far to the -south. Leaving the coast he threaded his way through shoals and -scattered keys, that even up to the present time have been only -imperfectly charted, and finally, on July 12, 1494, landed at some place -on the northern shore. He called this island the Evangelist. It is the -largest of a chain of keys running parallel with this part of the south -coast, irregular in form with an area of approximately eight hundred -square miles, and forms the southern half of the judicial district of -Havana. - -Columbus remained here, taking on fresh water and wood, until July 25, -and then began his return voyage east, sailing over shoals that -displayed so many varying shades of green, purple and white, that his -mariners are said to have become alarmed. - -Some twenty years later Diego Velasquez cruised along the southern coast -to a point west of the Guines River, where he founded a city, which he -called San Cristobal de la Havana. The fifty odd colonists whom he left -behind soon became dissatisfied with the general surroundings of the -spot which he had selected for their abiding place and moved over to the -north shore of the Island near the mouth of the Almandares River, which -they found in every way more agreeable as a place of permanent -residence. In 1519 a second move was made to the Bay of Carenas, where -they located permanently on the harbor, destined soon after to become -the most important port of the West Indies. - -The inhabitants of that irregular group of palm thatched huts little -dreamed that four centuries later the Port of Havana would have a -foreign commerce whose tonnage is excelled by only one other in the -Western Hemisphere. - -With the exception of the low, grass-covered plains of the southern -shore, the topography of the Province of Havana is undulating and -picturesque. The northern shore, throughout most of its length, -especially from the City of Havana west to Matanzas, rises more or less -abruptly from the beach until it reaches a rather uneven plateau, -several hundred feet above the level of the sea. - -In the northwestern corner, some two miles back from the shore line, the -"Pan" or "Loma of Guayabon," which is really a continuation of the Organ -Mountains of Pinar del Rio, forms a palm covered, picturesque ridge, -six hundred feet in height, extending from east to west for several -miles. Along the southern edge of this range of hills, runs a beautiful -automobile drive, connecting the capital with the city of Pinar del Rio, -the wonderful valley of the Vinales, Guane and the extreme western end -of the Island. A drive leading from the city of Guanajay extends fifty -miles northwest to the Bay of Bahia Honda, chosen originally as a -coaling station for the Navy, but never occupied. - -In the east central part of the province lie two small mountains known -as the Tetas de Bejucal, and from them, extending in an easterly -direction into the Province of Matanzas, are broken ridges, plateaus, -and hills that form one of the connecting links between the Organ group -of mountains in the west, and the still higher cordilleras of the -Province of Oriente in the extreme east. - -With the exception of the coastal plain running along the southern -boundary, the remainder of the province is undulating, more or less -hilly, and quite picturesque in its contour. A little east of the Tetas -de Bejucal, from the top of the divide that forms the water shed of the -province, looking south, one sees below him the Valley of the Guines, -known as the Garden of Havana. Thousands of acres are here spread out -before the view, all irrigated by the Guines River, whose source is in -the never failing springs that gush from the base of a mountain ridge in -the east center of the Province. - -The rich soil of this section, furnished as it is with water throughout -the year, produces a marvelous yield of sugar cane, potatoes, tomatoes, -peppers, egg plants and other vegetables, affording an inexhaustible -supply during the winter to the capital, forty miles north. Engineers -are making a study of this river so that its water may be more -economically distributed and the acreage of irrigated lands greatly -increased. - -In the southwestern quarter of Havana Province, known as the Tumbadero -District, experiments were first made in growing tobacco under cheese -cloth. These were so successful that in a few years Tumbadero, or Havana -wrappers, became famous for their fineness of texture, and within a -short time thousands of acres in that section were converted into -fields, or vegas, whose returns in tobacco leaf product were excelled in -value only by those of the celebrated Vuelta Abajo district of Pinar del -Rio. The towns of Alquizar and Guira de Melina were built and sustained -by the reputation of the Tumbadero wrapper, and the tobacco district was -soon extended well up into the center of the province, including Salud, -Rincon, San Antonio de los Banos, and Santiago de las Vegas. In the -northwestern corner of the Island, the rich valley extending south and -east of the "Pan de Guayabon," including the towns of Caimito, Hoyo -Colorado, and Guayabal, has recently rivaled the Tumbadero district in -the excellence of its tobacco, and excels in citrus fruit. - -Over three-fourths of Havana Province have been blessed with a -remarkably fertile soil, and although much of it has been under -cultivation for three centuries or more, with the judicious use of -fertilizers, the returns, either in fruit or vegetables, are very -gratifying to the small farmer. - -Along the delightfully shaded automobile drives that radiate from the -Capital in nearly all directions, the price of land within thirty miles -of the city has risen so rapidly that it is being given over almost -entirely to suburban homes and country estates, maintained by the -wealthy residents of the capital. In a climate where frost is unknown, -where the foliage remains fresh and green throughout the winter, it is -comparatively easy to convert an ordinary farm into a veritable garden -of Eden. - -One of the most beautiful places on the Island within the last few years -has been created by General Mario G. Menocal, President of the Republic. -It covers several hundred acres and is known as "El Chico," or the -"Little One." A commanding residence of Cuban colonial architecture, -standing a little back from the road, has been surrounded with beautiful -drives, lined with every variety of fruit tree, flower and ornamental -plant known to Cuba. The green lawn sweeps up to the stately building -occupied by President Menocal as a residence or country seat in summer. -On this place may be found many varieties of poultry, recently imported -from the United States for experimental purposes, in which the President -is deeply interested. Competent gardeners and caretakers are maintained, -with the result that "El Chico," where General Menocal and his family -spend much of their time, has become one of the show places of the -Province. - -Col. Jose Villalon, Secretary of Public Works, and Col. Charles -Hernandez, Director of Posts and Telegraph, have pretty country estates -located west of Havana, not far from El Chico. - -The soil of the Province, throughout most of its extent, has been formed -through the erosion of tertiary limestone, colored in many places a -reddish brown of oxide of iron that has impregnated most of the soils of -Cuba. Just south of Havana, serpentine has obtruded through the -limestone along a belt some two or three miles in extent, and forms the -round topped hills in evidence from the bay. - -The greater part of Havana Province, when found by the Spaniards, was -covered with forests of hard woods, that were gradually cut away during -the centuries in which the land has been tilled. The trees, according to -early records, included cedar, mahogany, acana, majagua and others, -still found in the mountainous districts and those sections of Cuba not -yet brought under cultivation. These valuable hard woods formed the -posts, joists, rafters, doors and windows of nearly all the old-time -residences of early days. Many buildings that have remained standing -through centuries, have ceilings that are supported by heavy carved -timbers of mahogany and give promise still of long years of service if -permitted to remain. - -The basic wealth of the province, as in nearly all other sections of -Cuba, is dependent on agriculture, although since the inauguration of -the Republic in 1902, manufacturing and various other industries are -beginning to play a prominent part in her economical wealth. - -In agricultural products, the Guines Valley previously referred to -undoubtedly produces greater returns than any other similar lands in -Cuba. Hundreds of thousands of crates of tomatoes, egg plants and other -vegetables, that have been raised through the whiter month by -irrigation, are shipped to the United States from December to April. -Thousands of barrels of Irish potatoes from the Guines Valley, also, are -sold in Philadelphia, New York and Boston during the month of March, at -prices averaging four dollars per hundred weight. - -In the Valley of Caimito, Guayabal and Hoyo Colorado, large crops of -vegetables are shipped to the northern markets during the winter months, -when good prices are assured. A certainty of profit, however, can only -be depended on where irrigation from wells is secured. - -Large acreages of pineapples are grown in the same district, although -the center of the pineapple industry in Havana today is located about -thirty miles east of the City, on the road to Matanzas. Over a million -crates every year are shipped out of Havana to the northern markets -between the middle of May and the middle of July. - -It is probable that no section of either the West Indies or the United -States offers greater opportunities for the canning industry than is -found in Cuba at the present time, especially in the Province of Havana, -where facilities for transportation are plentiful. A general canning and -preserving plant, intelligently conducted, could be operated in this -province throughout the entire year. In this way all of the surplus -pineapples not shipped abroad could be utilized. - -During the last few years several manufacturing industries have sprung -up on the outskirts of Havana, all of which seem to be yielding -satisfactory returns. Three large breweries are turning out a very good -grade of beer that is disposed of throughout the Island. The plants are -located in the suburbs of Havana, each surrounded by grounds rendered -attractive by landscape gardeners and furnishing places for recreation -and rest to both rich and poor on holidays, which are plentiful in Cuba. -A large up-to-date bottling plant, located just west of the City, -manufactures the containers for the output of the breweries. - -Between the city of Havana and the suburb of Ceiba, a modern rubber tire -and tube factory has been established, and is said to be working on full -time with very satisfactory profits. Several large soap and perfume -factories, recently established, are supplying the demand for these -products with satisfaction, it is said, both to the manufacturer and the -consumer. - -A number of brick yards and tile factories are located not far from the -City, the combined output of which is large. The erection of wooden -buildings within the city limits of Havana is not tolerated. In fact -they are not at all popular in Cuba since the climate is not conducive -to the preservation of wood, aside from cedar and mahogany or other hard -woods, which are too expensive for construction work. Limestone, easily -worked, and of a fine quality for this climate, is found in abundance, -hence it is that the vast amount of building going on at the present -time in Cuba makes heavy demands on both this material and brick, for -all constructive purposes. - -Nature has again favored this Island in her large deposits of excellent -cement-clay, limestone and sand, which are essential to the manufacture -of cement. The Almandares factory located on the west bank of that river -has long been in successful operation. Within the last year another -large modern cement factory has been established on the eastern shores -of the harbor of Mariel, twenty-five miles west of Havana, and today is -turning out high-grade cement at the rate of six hundred barrels per -day. - -Local factories have had a monopoly of the match-making industry in Cuba -for many years. Few, if any matches are imported from abroad, and may -never be, owing to the fact that the people of Cuba prefer the wax taper -match. Although short and rather inconvenient to those who are not -accustomed to this miniature candle, the flame burns longer and persists -more successfully in a breeze, hence it is probable that the Cuban match -will hold its own against all competitors. Quite a revenue is derived -from the penny stamp tax placed on each box of matches. - -Large quantities of pine lumber are imported into Cuba from the Gulf -cities, especially from South Pascagoula, Miss., and Mobile. This -material is used throughout the island for interior work, sash, doors, -blinds, etc. Unless covered with paint, hard pine is not very lasting in -this climate, for which reasons, perhaps, show cases, fancy work and -ornamental doors are usually built of the native cedar and majagua, -which are practically impervious to either decay or attack from boring -insects. - -The most important industry of the Province, from the monetary -viewpoint, at least, is the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes, which -are produced in greater quantity in Havana and throughout the province -than in any other part of the world. It is needless to state that the -cigars made in Havana from the celebrated Vuelta Abajo leaf are shipped -from this capital to all parts of the world, and may be found, it is -said, on the private desk of every crowned head in Europe. Large -shipments are made every year, also, to Japan and the Orient. Thousands -of men and girls are employed in this industry, the value of which, in -the export trade alone, amounts to over $30,000,000 a year. - -The Province has but one harbor of any importance, the Bay of Havana, -located near the center of the north coast. It covers several square -miles, and although the entrance between the promontory of Morro and the -Punta is only a few hundred yards across, the channel is deep, perfectly -protected, and leads to an anchorage sufficient for large fleets of -vessels. The shore portions of the main body of the harbor were rather -shallow in early times, but during recent years have been well dredged -up to the edge of the surrounding wharves, thus reclaiming a large -amount of valuable land, and greatly increasing the capacity of the Bay -for shipping purposes. - -Since the inauguration of the Republic in 1902, a series of large, -modern, perfectly equipped piers, built of concrete and iron, have been -extended out from the shore line of the western side of the bay, so that -the largest ships may now discharge and take on cargoes, eliminating -thus, to a great extent, the custom of lightering which prevailed only a -few years ago. Owing to the fact that nearly all the principal railroad -systems of Cuba radiate from the Capital, each with a terminal system -connecting with the wharves, the transportation facilities of this port -are superior to any others in Cuba. - -Steam and sail vessels are leaving Havana for different parts of the -world every day in the year, and it is a fact of which the Republic has -reason to be proud, that under normal conditions, or up to the beginning -of the great war, a greater amount of tonnage entered and left the -Harbor of Havana than that of any other city of the Western hemisphere, -with the exception of New York. Dredging is still going on with new -wharves in process of construction and projected, so that today frontage -on the bay is valuable and hard to secure at any price. - -Owing to its excellent transportation facilities and to the local market -furnished by the City of Havana itself, the growing of fruits and -vegetables, within a radius of one hundred miles from the capital, has -proved more profitable than in other parts of the Island. - -Although several small streams flow to the north and south of the -dividing ridge, passing through the center of the Island, none of them, -either in length or depth, could well be termed rivers. - -The Almandares, that has its origin in a group of magnificent springs -near the western center of the Province, meanders through a -comparatively level valley, emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, some three -miles west of Havana Harbor. The mouth of this stream, with a depth of -twelve or fourteen feet, accommodates schooners that come for sand and -cement at the factory. - -The Vento Springs, already referred to, are a most valuable asset of the -City of Havana, since the abundant flow of water, that through skilful -engineering has been conveyed some eight miles into the City, is of -excellent quality. The quantity of water, with economy, is sufficient, -according to engineering estimates, for a city of one or two millions. - -In the latter part of the 16th century the Italian engineer Antonelli -cut several ditches across the intercepting ridges and brought water -from the Almandares River into the city of Havana, not only for domestic -purposes but in sufficient quantity to supply the ships that dropped -into port on their long voyages between Spain and the eastern coast of -Mexico. - -On November 7, 1887, the famous Spanish engineer D. Francisco Albear y -Lara completed the present aqueduct and system of water works by which -the springs of Vento are made to contribute to the present Havana, with -its 360,000 inhabitants, a supply of excellent drinking water, although -only a small portion of the flow is utilized. - -Owing to the peculiar coral and soft limestone formation on which the -soil of this province has been deposited, numerous lagoons and rivers -flow beneath the surface at various depths, ranging from 30 to 300 feet. -These, when found and tapped, furnish an abundance of splendid fresh -water, seldom contaminated with objectionable mineral matter. At the -Experimental Station at Santiago tiago de las Vegas, a magnificent -spring of water was discovered at a little over one hundred feet in -depth. - -Other springs have formed a shallow lagoon just south of the city of -Caimito, the exit from which is furnished by a small swift running -stream, that after a surface flow of five or six miles suddenly plunges -down into the earth some forty feet or more, disappearing entirely from -view and never reappearing, as far as is known. Like many other streams -of this nature, it may come to the surface in the salt waters of the -Caribbean, off the south coast. - -The disappearance of this river takes place within a hundred yards of -the railroad station, in the town of San Antonio de los Banos, and -furnishes rather an interesting sight for the tourist who is not -familiar with this peculiar phenomenon. - -Although the City of Havana is considered one of the most delightful -winter resorts in the Western Hemisphere, there are many who claim, and -with reason perhaps, that the Capital has many advantages also as a -place in which to spend the summer. Many visitors from the Gulf States -in summer have been loath to leave Cuba. - -The mean annual temperature of Havana varies only twelve degrees -throughout the year. During the winter the mercury plays between the two -extremes of 58 and 78 degrees, with an average of about 70. During the -summer the temperature varies from 75 to 88 degrees, although there are -occasional records where the mercury has reached 92 degrees. Even at -this temperature, however, no great inconvenience is experienced, since -the cool, strong, northeast winds, that blow from the Atlantic, straight -across the Island, sweep into the Caribbean the overheated atmosphere -that otherwise would hang over the land as it does in the interior of -large continents, even in latitudes as high as northern Canada. - -This continual strong current of air, that blows from the Atlantic -during at least 300 days in the year, with its healthful, bracing -influence, tempers the heat of the sun that in latitude 22 is directly -overhead, and probably prevents sun strokes and heat prostrations, -which are absolutely unknown in Havana at any time of the year. - -During the first Government of Intervention, American soldiers in the -months of July and August, 1900, put shingled roofs on barracks and -quarters built at Camp Columbia, in the suburbs of Havana, without the -slightest discomfort. Officers who questioned the men with more or less -anxiety, since they were not accustomed to the tropics, were laughed at -for their fears, the soldiers declaring that, "although the sun was a -little hot, the breeze was fine, and they didn't feel any heat." Of the -thousands of horses and mules brought from Kentucky and Missouri not one -has ever fallen, or suffered from heat prostration in the Island of -Cuba. - -The nights are invariably cool, so much so that even in July and August, -during the early morning hours, a light covering is not uncomfortable. -There is every reason to believe that in the near future summer resorts -will be successfully established on many of the elevated plateaus and -mountainous parks in various sections of the Island. - -The Province of Havana, even during the times of Spanish rule, had three -or four fine military drives radiating to the south and west of the -Capital. Since the inauguration of the Republic, these highways, shaded -with the evergreen laurel, the almendra, flamboyant and many varieties -of palm, including the royal and the cocoanut, have been converted into -magnificent automobile drives, to which have been added many kilometers -of splendidly paved roads known as carreteras, which connect the towns -and villages of the interior with each other as well as the capital with -the principal cities of other sections of Cuba. - -Along these highways every three or four miles, are found road repair -stations supported by the Department of Public Works, in which laborers -to whom the keeping up of the road is assigned, live, and which shelter -the necessary rollers and road builders under their direction. These -stations are well built, well kept, and sometimes rather picturesque in -appearance. Their presence should be a guarantee of the permanence and -extension of good road-building in Cuba. - -The political, social and commercial heart of the Republic of Cuba -centers in the city of Havana, hence the province shares more directly -in the national life and prosperity than any other. Cables, wireless -stations and passenger ships of various lines coming and going every day -in the year, maintain constant touch with outside world centers. - -The Presidency, the various departments of the Federal Government, the -Army, Navy, higher Courts, Congress and Universities all pursue their -activities at the capital. The surrounding province, therefore, although -the smallest of the Island, will probably always remain the most -important political division of the Republic. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO - - -Topographically, the Province of Pinar del Rio is perhaps the most -picturesquely beautiful in the Island. Owing also to its variety of -soils, mahogany red, jet black, mulatto or brown, and the grey sands of -the south and west, Pinar del Rio offers marvellous opportunities for -many agricultural industries. Tobacco, of which it produces over -$30,000,000 worth annually, has always been the most important product -of this section of Cuba. - -This Province, with its area of 5,764 square miles, owing to the fact, -perhaps, that it lay west of Havana, the capital, and thus outside of -the line of traffic and settlement that began in the eastern end of the -Island, has played historically and politically a comparatively small -part in the story of the Pearl of the Antilles. Its capital, Pinar del -Rio, located about one hundred and twenty-five miles west of Havana, on -the Western Railroad, was founded in 1776, and claims today a population -of 12,000 people. - -The delightful aroma and flavor of the tobacco grown in the section of -which this city is the center, and whose quality has been equaled in no -other place, has rendered this province, in one way at least, famous -throughout the entire civilized world. - -The topography of the province is more distinctly marked than that of -any other in Cuba. The greater part of the surface, including the entire -southern half, together with the coast plains between the mountains and -the Gulf of Mexico, is quite level. Rising almost abruptly from the flat -surface, we have the western terminus of the great central chain of -mountains that forms the backbone of the Island. This begins near the -shores of Guadiana Bay and extends in a northeasterly direction -throughout almost the entire length of the Province. The main or central -ridge of the Pinar del Rio system is known as the Sierra de Los Organos, -or Organ Mountains, owing probably to the fact that the sides of these -mountains, in many places, form great perpendicular fluted columns, -whose giant organ like shafts reach upward for hundreds of feet. - -From this western terminal point the mountains rapidly widen out like an -arrow head, so that between San Juan y Martinez on the south, and Malos -Aguas on the north, the foot hills approach close to both coasts. On the -south, however, they quickly recede towards the Capital, some twenty -miles north, whence they continue throughout the northern center of the -Province in a line more or less direct, leaving the southern half a -great, broad level plain. - -On the north coast, from the harbor of San Gayetano east, the mountains -with their adjacent foothills follow more closely the shore line, until -at Bahia Honda, sixty miles west of the city of Havana, they come almost -down to the head of the harbor, gradually receding a little from this -point east, until the chain disappears some ten miles west of the -boundary line that separates Pinar del Rio from Havana. - -Strange as it may seem, nature in her mysterious caprice has twice -repeated the form of a shoe at separate points in the outline of the -south coast of Cuba. The first, known as the Peninsula of the Zapata, -with its definitely formed heel and toe, is in the Province of Santa -Clara; and again a second perfect shoe; that resembles with its high -heel set well forward a slightly exaggerated type of the shoe so popular -with the women of Cuba and all Latin American countries, forms the -extreme western terminus of the Island and is almost separated from the -mainland by a chain of shallow lakes. It extends from Cape Francis on -the east to Cape San Antonio, some seventy-five miles west, with an -average width of only about ten miles. Just in front of the heel we have -the indentation known as the Bay of Corrientes, while on the opposite -side, or top of the foot, lies the quiet and protected Bay of Guadiana. -The lighthouse of Cape San Antonio is located on the extreme western -point. From the toe to the heel, following the arch of the foot for -forty miles, runs a low range of hills that introduce the mountain -system of Cuba, developing later into the great central chain that -continues to the other end of the Island. - -Between the City of Pinar del Rio and Vinales, the range is broken up -into three parallel ridges, the central one composed of limestone, while -the other are of slates, schists and sand. The highest peak, known as -the Pan de Guajaibon, has an altitude that has been variously estimated -from 2500 to 3,000 feet. It rises abruptly from the narrow plain of the -north coast, about eight miles, southwest of the harbor of Bahia Honda, -and is difficult of ascent. The various parks, plateaus and circular -basins or sumideros, often of large extent, with subterranean exits, -form strangely picturesque spots that burst on the traveler, mounted on -his sturdy sure footed pony, unexpectedly, and if a lover of scenery he -will leave with sincere regret. - -One of these charming valleys, known as Vinales, lies between two -prominent ridges, about twenty miles north of the City of Pinar del Rio, -and is in many respects the most glorious bit of scenery in all the West -Indies. A splendid macadamized automobile drive winds from the capital -up along the foot hills to the crest of the ridge, whence it descends, -crosses the valley, cuts through the northernmost ridge, and continues -on to La Esperanza, on the north shore of the Province. - -[Illustration: THE VINALES VALLEY - -A scene in the heart of the wonderland of Pinar del Rio, which -innumerable tourists have declared second to no other spot in the world -in romantic beauty and fascinating charm. The combination of cliffs and -plain, with the rich coloring of tropical flora, is so bewildering as to -create the illusion of a stage-setting made for scenic effect by some -master artist.] - -Rex Beach, the novelist, writer and traveler, looked down from his auto -into the valley for the first time in 1916. Stopping the machine -suddenly, he jumped to the ground and stood spellbound, looking down -into that beautiful basin, over a thousand feet below. After a -moment's pause he exclaimed: "I have visited every spot of interest from -northern Alaska to Panama, and traveled through many countries, but -never before in my life have I met anything so picturesquely, -dramatically beautiful as this valley, this dream garden that lies at -our feet. There is nothing like it in the Western Hemisphere, probably -not in all the world." - -The length of the basin is not over twenty miles while its width varies -from three to ten. The floor is level, covered with rich waving grass, -watered by a little stream, that comes meandering through the valley, -dives beneath a mountain range, afterwards to reappear from a -grotto-like opening on the northern side, beyond the valley, whence its -waters eventually find their home in the Gulf of Mexico. - -The peculiar, almost unreal, indentations of the northern ridge are -silhouetted so vividly against the sky above that from the southern -shore of the valley one is inclined at times to believe them -fantastically formed clouds. The remarkable feature, however, of Vinales -lies in the peculiar round-topped mountains that rise abruptly from the -level surface below, and project themselves perpendicularly into the -air, to a height varying from 1,200 to 2,000 feet. - -Unique imposing formations, resulting from millions of years of tropical -rains and rock erosion, are covered with dense forests of strange palms -and thousands of rare plants, whose varied foliage seems to be peculiar -to this isolated spot in the western central part of Pinar del Rio. -These singular dome-like lomas of Vinales, looming up so unexpectedly -from the valley below, are usually accessible from one side, although -but very few people seem to have taken the trouble to climb to their -summits. All of these mountains and foothills, composed of limestone -formations, are honeycombed with caves, some of them of rare beauty. - -Shortly after the founding of the Republic, a group of men composed -mostly of naturalists and scientists, representing the Smithsonian and -like institutions in the United States, together with several Cuban -enthusiasts in the study of nature, spent several months studying the -fauna and flora of the Vinales Valley. In fact they rambled and worked -through most of the line of foothills that traverse Pinar del Rio -between its central ridges and the Gulf of Mexico. Some of the party -were specialists in tertiary fossils, others in the myriad varieties of -submarine life. These latter spent considerable time studying the -various species of radiata, mollusca, crustacea and allied forms of life -on the inner side of the long coral barrier reef which parallels the -shore of the province of Pinar del Rio, from Bahia Honda to Cape San -Antonio. Many new varieties of the snail family, also, were discovered -and studied. - -In this connection it may be stated that a very rare variety of the palm -family, the Microoyco Calocoma, commonly called the Cork Palm, found -only in Pinar del Rio, seems, owing perhaps to some unfavorable change -in climate or surrounding conditions, to be disappearing from earth. Not -more than seventy specimens are known to exist and these are all growing -in an isolated spot in the mountains back of Consolacion del Sur. -Several of them have been transplanted to the grounds of the Government -Experimental Station for study and care. One also has been removed to -the grounds of the President's home at El Chico. The palms are not tall, -none reaching a height of more than twenty feet, with a diameter of -perhaps eight inches. - -This rare palm is one of those miraculous survivals of the carboniferous -age that by some strange protecting influence have survived all the -great seismic upheaval and geological changes wrought on the earth's -surface during the millions of years since the epoch, when this and -similar varieties of carboniferous plants were the kings of the -vegetable world. Their dead forms are frequently found imprinted in the -coal fields of Pennsylvania and Brazil, but only in Cuba has this -family of ancient palms persisted, mute survival of an antiquity that -probably antedates any other living thing on earth. So slow is the -growth of this remarkable plant, that only one crown of leaves appears -each year. By simply counting the circles of scars left by the fallen -leaves, it is clearly demonstrated that many of these remnants of a -remote geological past were living in the mountains of Pinar del Rio -long before Columbus dreamed of another continent. Some of them are -today over a thousand years old, and may have antedated the fall of -Rome, if not the birth of Christ on earth. - -A strange variety of indigenous wild legumes, belonging probably to the -cow-pea tribe, is found growing luxuriantly in the low sandy soil of the -southwestern coast. The vine forms a splendid cover crop of which cattle -are very fond, while the peas, although small, are delicious eating. -Plants of the lily family are found in great quantities in some of the -fresh water lagoons of this Province, the ashes of which furnish 60% of -high-grade potash. - -Back in the mountains of Pinar del Rio, an exploring party from the -Experimental Station came across, most unexpectedly, a little group of -five immense black walnut trees. No one knows whence came the seed from -which they sprung, since the district has never been settled, and the -black walnut is not known in any other part of the Island. It is quite -probable that many, if not all, of the forest trees of a commercial -value in the Gulf States, and perhaps further north, would thrive in -Cuba if planted there. - -There is much fine, valuable hard-wood timber in the mountain ranges of -Pinar del Rio, between Vinales and Bahia Honda, but lack of facility for -the removal to the coast will probably cause it to remain unmolested for -some years to come. - -The extreme length of Pinar del Rio, from southwest to northeast, in a -straight line, is nearly two hundred miles, while its average width is -fifty. The rivers and streams all have their sources in the central -divide, and flow to the north and south, emptying into the Gulf of -Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. None of these, of course, are available -for navigation more than a few miles up from their mouths, and while -serving as drainage streams during the rainy season, many of them, -unfortunately, cease to flow during the dry months of February and -March. - -Some of them, with sources in large springs, back in the mountains, -could be used very advantageously, with small expense, for irrigation -purposes, thus rendering adjoining lands, especially in the tobacco and -vegetable district, doubly valuable. With the control of the water -supply, the profit to be made from these lands, on which three or four -crops may be gathered a year, would seem almost incredible, especially -if compared with the returns of similar lands in the United States. - -As an illustration, in any of the rich sandy soils bordering streams -like the Rio Hondo or Las Cabezas of the south coast, or the Manimani or -the Mulata of the north coast, whose waters are always available for -irrigation purposes, in January, February or March corn and cow peas may -be planted on the same ground in the early spring. Crops from these may -be gathered in late May or June, and the same land planted in carita -beans, sweet potatoes or squash, that may be removed in September, -leaving the field to be again planted in October with tobacco, peanuts, -yuca, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, egg plants or okra, that when -gathered in January and February will bring splendid returns in either -the local markets of Havana, or the early spring markets of the Atlantic -and Gulf Coasts of the United States. - -The short streams flowing from the mountain chains along the north coast -are the Mariel, the Manimani, the Mulata, the San Marcos, the Guacamayo, -the Caimito and Mantua, and the Rio Salado. Returning on the south coast -we have the Cabeza, the Guama, Ovas, Hondo, Herradura, San Diego, Los -Palacios, Bacuranabo, Sabanal and the Bayale. - -The northern coast of Pinar del Rio is fortunate in having three of the -finest harbors of Cuba, bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. First, the -beautiful Bay of Mariel, located about 30 miles west of Havana, has a -narrow, deep entrance with a lighthouse on the eastern point, and the -Government Quarantine Station for foreign ships on the western side at -the entrance. This Bay rapidly widens out into a large deep basin, three -miles in length from north to south, with an average width of perhaps a -mile, together with several prolongations towards the west, all -furnishing excellent anchorage and securely protected against any -possible weather. - -The shores of Mariel are beautiful. Palm covered bluffs several hundred -feet in height rise almost abruptly from the eastern side of the Bay. On -top of this promontory or plateau is located a fine two-story building, -erected in 1905 as a club house, but occupied at the present time by -Cuba's Naval Academy. The view from the crest over the surrounding -country, with its tall mountains in the distance, its forest covered -foothills and great valleys planted in sugar cane to the south and west, -with the Gulf of Mexico lying off to the north, presents a picture of -rare tropical beauty. - -Between this promontory and the lighthouse a modern cement factory was -built in 1917, turning out at the present time 1,000 barrels of Portland -Cement per day, while near the head of the Bay, a narrow gauge railroad, -bringing asphalt from back in the foothills, terminates alongside the -shipping wharf. - -The quaint little fishing village of Mariel is located on the shore at -the southern end of the Bay. Its inhabitants, although leading rather an -uneventful life, seem quite content to remain, although Havana is less -than thirty miles distant over a splendid automobile drive; one of the -most beautiful in Cuba. The Quarantine Station is splendidly equipped -and always in readiness to take care of any ship's crew or passengers -that may be detained by orders of the authorities in Havana. Mariel, -owing to its natural beauty and its proximity to Havana, is frequently -visited by President Menocal in his yacht, and furnishes a delightful, -cool resting place for anyone during the summer season. - -Ten or twelve miles further west, we have the Bay of Cabanas, another -perfectly land-locked harbor, whose deep entrance is divided by an -island into two channels. These open out into a wide picturesque expanse -of water, extending east and west for some ten miles or more, with an -average width of two or three. - -On the small island that almost obscures the mouth of the harbor from -the sea, a little old Spanish fort, with its obsolete guns, up to the -present unmolested, bears mute evidence to those times when visits of -pirates, with the equally troublesome corsairs of France and England, -were common, and provision for defense was absolutely necessary. The -village of Cabanas, in order to secure better protection from the danger -mentioned, is located two or three miles back from the eastern end of -the harbor. - -Great fields of sugar cane surround the Bay on all sides. These, of -course, have been greatly extended since the European War and the -increased demand for sugar. A beautiful automobile drive that branches -from the main line or Pinar del Rio road, at Guanajay, passes along the -crest of the ridge of hills back of the Bay of Cabanas, for over ten -miles, giving at almost every turn a new view to this beautiful sheet of -water. Once known to the outside world, this magnificent Bay of Cabanas -would soon become a popular resort for private yachts that spend the -winter season in tropical waters. - -Fifteen miles further west, this same winding, hill-climbing, -macadamized Government driveway, reaches another splendid harbor known -as Bahia Honda, or Deep Bay. Like most of the bays of Cuba, the entrance -to this, although comparatively narrow, is deep, and with two range -lights maintained for the purposes of easy access day and night. This -harbor extends back from the Gulf of Mexico some seven or eight miles, -with an average width of three or four, furnishing good anchorage for -ships of any draught. - -Bahia Honda was selected by the United States Government in 1902, as a -coaling station, a large body of land on the western shore being -reserved for that purpose. Owing, however, to the completion of the -Panama Canal later, and to the consequent advantages of having a naval -station closer to the line of maritime travel, between Panama and the -Atlantic Coast, Bahia Honda was surrendered to the Government of Cuba -and Guantanamo became the principal United States Naval Station for the -West Indies. - -The harbor of Bahia Honda, dotted with islands, and with comparatively -high lands extending all along its western and southern shores, offers -the same advantages, not alone for an extensive commerce, but as a -rendezvous for foreign yachts and pleasure craft, during the closed -season or winter months of the north. The little village bearing the -same name, two miles back from the Bay, is reached by a branch from the -main driveway connecting Bahia Honda with Havana and intermediate -cities. - -The Bay of La Esperanza, one hundred miles west of Havana, is inclosed -by the long chain of islands and coral reefs known as the "Colorados," -that lie some eight or ten miles off the mainland, and protect -three-fourths of the shore of Pinar del Rio from the heavy waves of the -Gulf of Mexico. The entrance to this and adjacent bays is through narrow -breaks in the barrier reef. Its waters have an average depth of only two -or three fathoms; nevertheless considerable amounts of copper ore are -shipped from the mines some fifteen miles back in the mountains during -all seasons of the year. - -Along the western shore of the main body of this Province, we have the -harbors of Dimas and Mantua. Like the Esperanza, they are comparatively -shallow bays, entered through breaks in the Colorado Reefs, but still -available for moderate draft vessels in all seasons of the year. - -In the angle of the ankle, formed by the shoe-like extension of the -Province of Pinar del Rio, we have a beautiful wide indentation of the -coast known as Guardiana Bay. On the shores, some ten years ago, was -located a Canadian colony, but, owing to its isolation, and lack of -transportation of all kinds, it has since been practically abandoned. -This settlement, like the Isle of Pines, had little to recommend it -except its beautiful climate and its perfect immunity from the cares and -troubles of the outside world. - -Aside from wide, deep indentations from the sea, and shallow landing -places at the mouths of rivers, the south coast of Pinar del Rio has -nothing to offer in the shape of harbors. Nevertheless, owing to the -presence of long lines of outlying keys, and to the fact that northerly -winds produce only smooth water off these shores, there is considerable -local traffic carried on between various places on the south coast and -Batabano, whence connection with Havana is secured by rail. A large part -of the charcoal used in the capital is cut from the low lying forests -that cover almost the entire length of Pinar del Rio's south coast. - -Across the ankle-like connection between the mainland and the peninsula -forming the western extremity of the Island a depression runs from -Guardiana Bay on the west to the Bay of Cortez on the east. Numerous -fresh water lagoons or inland lakes lie so close that a small amount of -dredging would cut a canal from one shore to the other, and save thus -over a hundred miles of travel for local coasting vessels. At the -present time these lakes, with their rich growth of aquatic plants, -furnish a retreat during the winter season for many varieties of wild -ducks, which the game laws of Cuba are endeavoring to protect. Wild deer -are also very plentiful throughout the greater part of the Province, -especially in the mountainous districts and in the jungles of the south -coast. - -The capital, Pinar del Rio, is a modern and rather attractive little -city of some 12,000 inhabitants, located on a gentle rise of ground in -the western center of the Province. Immediately surrounding it is the -celebrated tobacco district known as the Vuelta Abajo, or Lower Turn, so -called, perhaps, owing to the fact that the coast line of this section -recedes rapidly towards the south and west. - -The choice lands of this locality cover a relatively small area, not -over thirty miles from east to west and less than half that distance -from north to south. And even within this circumscribed area, the best -tobacco is grown only in little vegas, or oases, whose soil seems to -contain mineral elements the character of which has never been -discovered, but that nevertheless give to the plant a peculiarly -delightful aroma and flavor, not known to the tobacco of any other part -of the world. As a result, the price of these little vegas, so favored -by Nature, is very high, often running into thousands of dollars per -acre. - -Pinar del Rio is connected with Havana by the Western Railway, that -traverses almost the entire length of the Province, terminating at the -present time at the town of Guane within thirty miles of Guardiana Bay. -This railroad furnishes transportation for the great level plains, -together with the fertile foot hills that occupy the southern half of -the Province. - -An extension of the line has been granted and contracts signed carrying -it around the western terminus of the Organ Mountains, whence it will -follow the line of the north shore, returning east to Havana. This line -when completed will furnish transportation to the entire length of the -coast lands bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. - -Along the Western Road are a number of prosperous little cities or -villages, with populations varying from two to eight thousand, including -Artemisa, Candelaria, San Cristobal, Taco-Taco, Los Palacios, -Herradura, Consolacion del Sur, Ovas, etc., all of which are located -along the foothills, and in the tobacco district is known as the Partido -or Semi Vuelta. Beyond Pinar del Rio, we have San Luis, Martinez and -Guane, which claim to be within the charmed zone of Vuelta Abajo. - -Tobacco is also grown around the little town of Vinales, nestling in the -center of that valley, and in nearly all of the foothills that border -the north coast; hence the tobacco industry in this end of the Island, -greatly exceeds in value, that of sugar cane, which up to the beginning -of the great war, was grown only in the basins of rich heavy soil -surrounding the harbors of Mariel, Cabanas and Bahia Honda. There are -seven ingenios or sugar mills within the limits of this province that -produced together 645,000 bags of sugar in 1918. - -The growing of fruits and vegetables, especially since the birth of the -Republic, was introduced into Pinar del Rio as an industry by Americans, -many of whom settled along the line of the Western Road, many of these, -taking advantage of the rich sandy loams between the railroad line and -the Organ Mountains, have built up a really important industry not -before known to Cuba. - -An American colony was started at Herradura, one hundred miles west of -Havana in 1902. Unfortunately, the inhabitants of the little settlement -gave nearly all of their capital and energy to the planting of citrus -fruit groves, which as a whole, have rather disappointed their owners. -This was not because the growing of citrus fruit cannot be successfully -carried on in Pinar del Rio, but was in most instances owing to the fact -that the areas planted were very much larger than the available help -could possibly handle and care for intelligently; hence many groves, -lacking this care, have lapsed into grazing lands, whence they came. - -The growing of vegetables, green peppers, tomatoes, egg plants and -beans, especially where farms were located near enough to streams to -provide irrigation during the months of January, February and March, -has proven very profitable, and within the near future will undoubtedly -be still further extended. - -In the early part of the 19th century, and for that matter, up to the -abolition of slavery in 1878, the production of coffee in the -mountainous districts of Pinar del Rio was the chief industry in the -Province. Beautiful estates, the ruins of which are frequently scattered -along the line of the Organ Mountains, especially in that section of the -range included between San Cristobal and Bahia Honda, and splendid -country homes with approaches cut from the main highways of travel up -into these delightful picturesque retreats, were occupied during the -summer months by prominent citizens of Havana, who found the growing of -coffee both profitable and agreeable. The coffee trees still grow, -although uncared for, and many thousand of pounds are still brought out -of this almost forgotten district, on mule back, to be sold to the -country groceries of Bahia Honda and San Cristobal, where the green -beans bring twenty dollars per hundred weight. - -With the introduction of colonists from the Canary Islands, Italy, and -other countries who love the fresh air of the mountains, and who do not -object to the isolation which naturally follows a residence in remote -sections, there is every reason to believe that the coffee industry will -again be resumed. The settlement of these hills and vales with families -whose children can assist in the picking of berries, will make the -growing of coffee a great success. - -Until 1913 the mining interests of Pinar del Rio were practically -ignored, in spite of the fact that several excavations or shafts, that -had been worked many years before, gave evidence of the existence of -copper. It was in this year that Luciano Diaz, formerly Secretary of -Public Works, became interested in the district known as Matahambre. -Competent mining engineers, brought from the United States, assured Mr. -Diaz that his claim was valuable, and merited the investment of -capital. This proved to be true, since the mine has produced high-grade -copper at the rate of about five million dollars per year since the date -of its opening. - -Valuable deposits of manganese, too, have been recently discovered in -the western end of the province, and will undoubtedly be developed in -the near future. Excellent iron ore is found in the same chain, west of -the capital, but owing to the difficulties of transportation, the mines -have never been operated. Asphalt, asbestos and other substances used in -the commercial world, are found at various points along the range, and -await only intelligent direction and capital for their development. - -Although Narciso Lopez, with his unfortunate followers, endeavored to -arouse the people of this Province against the iniquities of Spanish -rule in the year 1852, the revolution had never reached the west until -the winter of 1896, when General Antonio Maceo, with his army of Cuban -veterans, carried the "invasion of the Occident" to its ultimate -objective. After one of the most skilfully conducted campaigns known to -history, he rested for a few weeks in the little town of Mantua, within -a few miles of the extreme western shore of Cuba. - -The crossing of the Trocha, that had been built between the harbor of -Mariel and the south coast, by this invading army, was very distasteful -to General Weyler, who soon filled Pinar del Rio with well armed -regiments and gave Maceo battle for more than a year. Short of -ammunition, and in a section of the country where it was almost -impossible for the expedition to aid him, General Maceo was compelled to -keep up a running fight for many months, and in the Organ Mountains and -in their various spurs toward the north coast were fought some of the -most stubbornly contested engagements of the War of Independence. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -PROVINCE OF MATANZAS - - -Historically the province of Matanzas has played a comparatively -unimportant part in the various events that have influenced the destiny -of the Island. In the early days of conquest, little mention of the -district was made. Grijalva, however, with a small body of men, was the -first of the Spanish conquerors who, pushing his way along the northern -coast of Cuba, reached the harbor now known as Matanzas on October 8, -1518. A very substantial fort of the same excellent style of military -architecture as that seen in Havana, was erected on the western shore of -the Bay of Matanzas to protect the city from invasion, in the middle of -the eighteenth century. - -The province of Matanzas joins Havana on the east and has an area of -3,257 square miles. The surface as a whole is comparatively level, -although the chain of mountains, which forms the backbone of the entire -Island, is represented along the center of Matanzas in a series of low -peaks and foothills sloping away to the northwest corner, in which the -capital, Matanzas, is located on a bay of the same name. - -Across the eastern center of the Province of Matanzas, nature left a -depression that extends from the north coast at Cardenas, almost if not -quite, to the shore of the Caribbean, at the Bay of Cochinos. The -elevation above the sea level is so slight throughout this belt that a -series of fresh water lagoons, swamps and low lands, without natural -drainage of any kind, has rendered the district almost useless for -agriculture and grazing purposes during the rainy season. Between the -months of May and November this section is frequently flooded so that -animals occasionally perish and crops are frequently destroyed. - -To relieve the situation a drainage canal was proposed a few years ago, -that should furnish an artificial exit for the surplus water into the -Bay of Cardenas. The length of the proposed canal was thirty miles, and -work began on the big ditch in 1916. At the present time it is -practically completed, at a cost of approximately five millions of -dollars. Its width varies from sixteen to forty-four meters, carrying an -average depth of one and a half meters, or five feet. - -The possibility of eventually converting this drainage canal into an -avenue of traffic, between the north and the south coasts, furnishing -thus water, or cheap transportation, between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas -and Cienfuegos, or other ports on the south coast, has naturally -appealed to engineers who have studied the terrain. There are no -engineering difficulties that would prevent a canal of this kind from -being converted into a deep ship canal across the Island which would -shorten the distance between New York and Panama by at least two hundred -miles. Steamers bound north from Panama would then cross the Caribbean, -pass through from Cochinos Bay to Cardenas, entering at once the Gulf -Stream, the force of whose current would still further shorten the time -between Panama and Pacific ports on the south, and all Atlantic ports -north of Cuba. The engineering problem could not be more simple, since -it is merely a question of dredging through earth and soft limestone -rock for a distance of seventy-five miles, taking advantage, as does the -present drainage canal, of the Auton River, where it empties into -Cardenas Bay. That such a saving of time and distance will some day be -consummated is more than probable. Not only the economics and benefits -to be derived from such a shortening of miles between local points in -times of peace, but the strategic advantage of the short cut for naval -units in time of war, are more than manifest to any one at all familiar -with the geography of Cuba and the West Indies. Cuba, for commercial and -economical reasons, is deeply interested in the construction of a canal -that would make the Province of Matanzas an intersea gateway, not only -for her own coastwise trade, but for much of the northbound traffic that -in the near future will carry millions of tons of raw material from the -west coast of South America to the great manufacturing centers of the -North Atlantic. - -Running parallel with the north shore, a short series of remarkable -hills rise abruptly from the surrounding level plain to an altitude of a -thousand feet or more. One of these is known as the "Pan de Matanzas," -whose round, palm covered top may be seen for many miles at sea. Ships -coming from New York usually make this peak above the horizon before any -other part of the Island comes into view. - -The Yumuri River, at some time in the remote geological past cut its way -through these hills and found exit in Matanzas Bay. The valley lying -between two of these parallel ridges, through which the Yumuri flows, -has been rendered famous by Alexander Humboldt, who visiting the spot in -the winter of 1800, traveling over most of South and Central America, -pronounced it the most beautiful valley in the world. No terms of praise -are too great to bestow on the Yumuri; but in truth it must be said that -Humboldt had never seen the Valley of Vinales, one hundred and thirty -miles west, or he would probably have hesitated in bestowing such -superlative praise on the Yumuri. - -Only a few miles south of the Yumuri, another river known as the San -Juan has broken through the ridge which lies along the western shore, -and empties its waters into the bay. Another small stream, the Canima, -pouring its waters into the Bay, a little further east, flows through a -series of limestone cliffs covered with a wealth of tropical forest and -furnishes a source of recreation to visitors and many people of the -capital, who make excursions to the head of navigation in motor -launches. - -The Province has an average length of about 70 miles, with a width from -north to south of fifty miles, and forms a fairly regular parallelogram. -From the center of the coast line a narrow neck of land, known as the -Punta Hicaco, projects out toward the northeast for some fifteen miles, -inclosing the Bay of Cardenas on the west. The outer shore of this strip -of land, known as El Veradero, forms the finest bathing beach in all -Cuba, to which those who do not find it convenient to visit the United -States in summer, can come during the warmer months. - -A chain of islands varying in size from little keys of a half acre to -that of Cayo Romano, seventy miles long, extends from a few miles east -of Punta Hicaco, along the north shore of Cuba to the Harbor of -Nuevitas, a distance of three hundred miles. The Bay of Cardenas, -although large in extent is rather shallow in comparison with most -harbors of Cuba. Extensive dredging, however, has rendered it available -for steamers of 20-foot draft. - -The southern boundary of the Province is formed by the River Gonzalo, -fairly deep throughout half its length, but obstructed by shoals at the -mouth. The upper extension of this stream, known as Hanabana, flows -along the larger part of its eastern boundary. Just south of the Gonzalo -River lies the great Cienaga de Zapato, or Swamp of the Shoe, which -belongs to the Province of Santa Clara. The land along the northern bank -of the river is also low and marshy, with sharp limestone rocks -frequently cropping out on the surface. Of navigable rivers, Matanzas -has really none worthy of mention but with railroads it is quite well -supplied. - -The surface as a whole is slightly rolling and has long been under -cultivation, especially in the production of sugar cane, for which -nearly all of this section is excellently adapted. There are forty sugar -plantations in active operation in Matanzas Province, producing in 1917 -over four million sacks. The cultivation of sugar cane, as in other -provinces, is the chief source of wealth and yields the greatest -revenue. - -In recent years, or since revolutions have practically destroyed the -industries of Yucatan, capital has been attracted to the cultivation of -henequen, and to the extraction of the fibre known as sisal, from which -not only rope and cables are made, but also binding twine, so essential -to the wheat crop of the United States. - -Leaving the city of Cardenas, which promises soon to be another great -sisal center, and traveling west over the automobile drive towards -Matanzas, a perfect panorama of growing henequen is spread out on both -sides of the road as far as the eye can reach. The peculiar bluish green -color of the fields of this valuable textile plant, dotted as they are -with royal palms, produce a fascinating effect as one passes through -league after league of henequen. - -There are many limestone hills, plateaus and plains in Matanzas -Province, whose surface, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, is -especially adapted to the growth and cultivation of henequen, and it is -quite possible that the sisal industry, in a short time, may equal if -not excel in importance the sugar industry of the province. - -Some twenty years ago a complete plant was established in the city of -Matanzas for the manufacture of cables, cordage and binding twine for -the local market. Thousands of acres of barren hillsides south of the -city were planted in henequen at that time, and have since furnished -enough raw material to keep this rope factory going throughout the -entire year. The decortator, or machine by which the sisal is separated -from the pulp of the leaves, is located near the crest of the hill, -about a half a mile back of the factory. From this point down to the -plain below, the green fresh sisal is conveyed by gravity in iron -baskets, where it is received by women and spread out on wire lines to -dry. Twenty-four hours later it is carried into the factory and there -spun into rope of all sizes, from binding twine to the twelve-inch -hawsers. Water was found alongside the factory only a few feet below the -surface, where an underground stream furnishes an inexhaustible supply. - -Several millions were invested in the Matanzas henequen industry, -started by a company of Germans, who recently sold out to local and -foreign capitalists. It is said that the capacity of the plant will be -greatly increased. - -The city of Matanzas, capital of the Province, is spread out over the -side and along the base of the low hill that forms the western shore of -the Bay. Although not possessing the wealth of Havana, the general -appearance of the city, with its substantial stone buildings, gives -every evidence of prosperity and comfort. Its population numbers -approximately 40,000, the greater part of whom are interested in sugar, -henequen and other local industries of the section. - -Matanzas was first settled in 1693, but the modern city is laid out with -wide streets, the oldest of which as usual radiate from the central -plaza or city park, a quaint square ornamented with oriental palms and -tropical flowers. The most pretentious drive of this provincial capital, -however, has been built along the shore of the bay, a beautiful wide -avenue lined with laurels and with statues of various local heroes, -which add greatly to its interest. The view from the opposite side of -the bay is excelled only by that of Havana from the heights of Cabanas. - -Just back of the City, or rather on the edge of its northwestern -boundary, perched on the front of a commanding promontory known as La -Loma de Monserrate, is located a quaint little cathedral dedicated to -the Virgin of El Cobre. The altar and background of the nave are -constructed of cork, brought from Spain for that purpose many years ago. -From the crest of this flat topped hill, protected on the north by a -stone wall, with spacious seats of the same material, under the shade of -laurel trees, the traveller has spread before him a beautiful view -of the Yumuri Valley, over which Humboldt gazed with admiration some -hundred years ago. - -[Illustration: SAN JUAN RIVER, MATANZAS - -Second only to Havana itself on the northern coast of Cuba is the great -commercial and residence city of Matanzas. Instead of standing upon the -shore of a land-locked bay, however, Matanzas is built on the banks of -the San Juan River, a broad, deep stream affording admirable facilities -for navigation, and lined for a considerable distance partly with -handsome houses and business buildings and partly with busy docks and -wharves, thronged with vessels of all descriptions.] - -Leading from the Capital are several very beautiful automobile drives; -one reaching out towards the north and rounding the eastern terminus of -the Yumuri Valley, gives a beautiful view of that charming basin as it -stretches away toward the west. - -Another delightful drive sweeps along the south shore towards Cardenas. -A few miles from Matanzas, however, a sharp turn to the right leads up -on to the summit of the ridge south of Matanzas. The drive passes -through the long stretches of henequen fields whose plants furnish the -fibre to the factory near the railway station. - -On the crest of the plateau, under the shade of a small grove of trees, -is found an odd little building that serves as the entrance to the -Bellamar Caves. This famous underground resort is quite well known to -tourists who visit Cuba in the winter season. Visitors are lowered by -means of an elevator to a depth considerably below the level of the sea, -after which guides take the party in charge and lead the way through -several miles of interesting underground passages, ornamented with -stalactites, stalagmites and other beautiful formations peculiar to -those old time waterways that forced their tortuous channels through the -bowels of the earth thousands of years ago. - -Many of these formations are of a peculiar pearl white with a delicate -texture that resembles Parian marble and gives a metal-like ring when -struck. The entire cave is lighted with electricity and entrance to the -more inaccessible spots has been rendered possible through artificial -steps and balustrades. The city of Matanzas furnished an interesting and -pleasant spot in which the tourist can spend a few days agreeably. - -The harbor of Matanzas is a wide mouthed roadstead, cutting back from -the Atlantic some five or six miles with a width varying from three to -four. Dredging within recent years has greatly improved the port, -although with deep draft vessels, lightering is still necessary to -convey freight from the warehouses out to the various places of -anchorage. - -[Illustration: CITY HALL AND PLAZA, CARDENAS] - -The view of the City, covering the slopes of the hills on the west as -you enter the bay, is very attractive. Since the Province of Matanzas -has no harbors on the south coast, nearly all the sugar produced in her -forty big mills is shipped from either Matanzas or Cardenas, both of -which are connected with railroads that tap the various agricultural -sections lying south of them. - -The second city of the Province, Cardenas, is located on Cardenas Bay, a -large and well protected harbor thirty miles east of Matanzas. In -comparison with most of the harbors, however, it is comparatively -shallow, needing a good deal of dredging to make it available for deep -draft vessels. Cardenas, like Matanzas, is comparatively modern, with -wide streets, regularly laid out. The old square, with its statue of -Columbus, has been recently remodeled at considerable cost. - -The first serious indication of revolt on the part of the Cuban people -against the rule of Spain, was started here by General Narciso Lopez, -who landed at Cardenas with 600 men, mostly Americans from New Orleans, -on May 19, 1850. Within a few hours they had captured the Spanish -garrison and made prisoners of Governor Serrute and several of his -officials. The city was theirs, but to the unspeakable chagrin of -General Lopez, only one man came to his aid on Cuban soil, and before -nightfall, after defeating a Spanish column sent to oppose him, the -disappointed revolutionist abandoned the city, and with his followers -embarked for Key West. - -It was on May 11, 1898, that Cardenas Bay became the scene of an -engagement between blockading vessels of the United States fleet and the -Spanish batteries, in which Ensign Worth Badgley was killed, he being -the first officer to lose his life in the war. - -The exportation of sugar from the rich lands tributary to this bay has -always given Cardenas importance as a shipping point and rendered it, -for a city of only 30,000, quite a wealthy and prosperous community. -Many beautiful residences have been built along its stately avenues, and -the great henequen industry recently started in the great fields to the -west will add, undoubtedly, to the wealth of the locality. Splendid -stone warehouses line the shore for a mile or more, with a capacity -sufficient to hold in storage while necessary the enormous crop of sugar -that is produced in the province. - -The presence of naphtha and many surface indications of oil deposits -south and east of the City of Cardenas have rendered that section -attractive as a field of exploration. Up to the present time, however, -no paying wells have been found, although many expert oil men are still -confident that the entire district from Cardenas to Itabo, and even -further east, will some day prove a valuable field for petroleum -products. - -Midway between Cardenas and the City of Matanzas, just north of the -beautiful highway connecting these two cities, rises a range of low -serpentine hills, whose altitude is approximately five hundred feet. -These peculiarly symmetrical, round, loaf-like elevations above the -level surface of the surrounding country, are covered with a short -scrubby growth of thorny brush, and several varieties of maguey, of the -century plant family. Nothing else will grow on these serpentine hills; -hence in most respects they are decidedly unattractive. Since the -beginning of the international war, however, and the great demand for -chrome, some local mineralogists noted that little streams and rivulets -running down these hills left deposits of a peculiar black, glistening -sand. This sand, when analyzed, proved to come from the erosion of -chromite, the mineral so much in demand by the smelting industry of the -United States for hardening steel. In the spring of 1918 two well-known -mining engineers and geologists, with instructions from Washington, -visited several of these serpentine hills and found valuable deposits of -chromite that will probably furnish a very profitable source of this -much sought-for mineral and add greatly to the mining industry of this -province. - -During the War of Independence, Generals Antonio Maceo and Maximo Gomez -led the invading columns of the Revolutionary Army into this Province -for the first time, in the fall of 1896. The great beds of dead leaves -lying between rows of cane, dried by the November winds, formed useful -material for the insurgent armies. The torch once applied to this vast -tinder box, with the prevailing easterly winds, all Matanzas was aflame. -Under cover of the great canopy of smoke which rose over the land, the -invading armies of the Occident swept rapidly on through the Province, -fighting only when compelled to, since the object of the invasion was to -carry the war into Havana and Pinar del Rio, where Revolution had never -before been known. - -The vast cane fields that today line the railroad tracks on both sides, -bear no evidence of the ravages of Revolution, while handsome modern -mills, many of which have been erected since the beginning of the great -European War of 1914, have helped to feed the world with sugar that -could be obtained in sufficient quantities in no other place. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -PROVINCE OF SANTA CLARA - - -Probably in no part of Cuba is the topography more varied or the scenery -more beautiful than in the Province of Santa Clara, with its area of -8,250 square miles. Mountain, valley, table land and plain seem to be -thrown together in this, the central section of the Island, in reckless -yet picturesque confusion. The main system of mountains, extending -throughout the entire length of Cuba, disappears and reappears along the -northern coast of Santa Clara, thus permitting easy communication -between her rich central plains, covered with sugar estates, and her -harbors on the coast. - -In the southwestern center of this province, we have another group of -mountains, foot hills and fertile valleys, in which are located some of -the old coffee estates of slavery days, established at the close of the -18th century, shortly after the negro uprising in Santo Domingo. These -cafetales, in the early half of the following century, made Cuban coffee -famous throughout the world. Nestling within this mountain cradle lies -the city of Trinidad, founded by Diego Velasquez in January, 1514. The -presence of gold, which the Indians panned from the waters of the Arimo -River, rendered Trinidad an important center for the early Spanish -conquerors during the first years of Cuban history. Sancti Spiritus, -lying on the edge of a fertile plateau, some forty-five miles to the -northeast, was founded a few months later. - -Gold was the god of the Spanish conquerors, and to secure it was their -chief aim and ambition. Its discovery in this section of Santa Clara -brought hope to them and despair to the Indians, on whom the former -depended for labor with which to dig this precious metal from the earth. -Velasquez found the natives of Trinidad, like those of Oriente, a -gentle, confiding people, who asked only permission to live as they had -always done; tilling the soil, fishing, visiting and dancing, at which -they were most clever, an ideal and harmless life, suited to their -tastes. They grew corn, sweet potatoes, tobacco and yucca, from which -they made their cazaba bread, still used by the country people of the -present day. The Spaniards, however, soon changed this earthly dream of -ease and joy into one of arduous and repugnant toil, rather than to -submit to which, many of them committed suicide by poison and by -drowning. - -Velasquez, enthusiastic over the locality of his newly founded city, -Trinidad, despatched at once one of his caravels to La Espanola in Santo -Domingo, with orders to bring back cattle, mares and other material -necessary to further the interests of the new settlement. And so it came -to pass that this section of southern Santa Clara, with its fertile -lands, beautiful scenery and promise of gold, played an important part -in the early colonization of the Island. - -The desire to accumulate wealth through the toil of the unhappy Indians, -of whom the Spaniards made slaves, tempted even Las Casas, the great -defender of the Cuban aborigines, to accept assignment of them as a gift -from the crown, so that he might share something of the prosperity of -the early conquerors. It is reported that Las Casas repented this -departure from the path of rectitude and afterwards was led to indorse -the importation of African slaves in order to save the Cuban Indians -from extermination. - -It was on the banks of the beautiful Arimo, some twenty-five miles east -of Trinidad, that this celebrated old historian and defender of the -faith maintained his ranch and other worldly possessions. Throughout the -sixteenth century this section of Santa Clara was an important station -on the line of travel between Santiago de Cuba and Havana. - -Caravels leaving "Tierra Firme," or the great continent of South -America, that had been discovered, frequently made this shore, on the -other side of the Caribbean, or were driven against it by storms, the -crews afterwards reaching Santiago de Cuba by travel overland, along the -south coast. Owing probably to the fact that all of this coast, from the -mouth of the Zaza River east to the Cauto, is low, covered with dense -jungle, reports reached Spain to the effect that the most of Cuba was a -swamp, which is far from the truth, since by far the greatest portion of -the Island is rolling and mountainous. - -More than half of Santa Clara is hilly and broken, although owing to the -fertility of the soil this interferes but little with the agricultural -development of the Province. - -The mountains of Santa Clara form the central zone of the great volcanic -upheaval that raised Cuba from the depths of the Caribbean. A broad belt -or double chain lies between the city of Santa Clara and Sancti -Spiritus. Another ridge, just south of the latter city, extends from the -Tunas de Zaza railroad to a point east of the Manatee River, near the -harbor of Cienfuegos. A second group lies between the valleys of the -rivers Arimao and Agabama, names taken from the original appellations -given them by the Indians. - -The highest peak of this central region, called Potrerillo, is located -some seven miles north of Trinidad and reaches an altitude of about -3,000 feet. The mountains of this group extend northwest as far as the -Manicaragua Valley. A third group, lying southeast of the city of Santa -Clara, includes the Sierra del Escambray and the Sierra de Agabama. The -average altitude of these latter hills is only about a thousand feet. - -Another range of hills begins at a point on the north coast of the -Province, twenty-five miles east of Sagua la Orande, and runs parallel -with the north shore of the Island into the Province of Camaguey, in the -western edge of which it disappears in the great level prairies of that -region. The highest peaks of this group are the Sierra Morena, west of -Sagua la Grande, and the Lomas de Santa Fe, near Camajuani. A little -further east they are known as the Lomas de Las Sabanas. - -With the exception of the northern coast range, the other ranges of -Santa Clara have resulted from seismic forces, working apparently at -right angles to the main line of upheaval, leaving the tangled mass of -hills and valleys characteristic of this great central zone of the -Province. What is known as the schistose or pre-cretaceous limestones of -Trinidad, are supposed to be the oldest geological formations in the -Island of Cuba. - -From the foot of the Sierra de Morena, near the north coast, a wide, -comparatively level plain sweeps across the province to the Caribbean -Sea, broken only at a few points by one or two abrupt hills, northeast -of Cienfuegos. Lying between the northern chain of mountains and the -coast, we find quite a broad area of rich level land washed by the salt -water lagoons of the north shore. - -Again, in the extreme southeast corner of Santa Clara, is found another -large tract comprising perhaps a thousand square miles, located between -the Zaza and the two Jatabonico rivers that form the boundary between -the province and Camaguey. - -Between the various chains of mountains and hills that cut the province -of Santa Clara into hundreds of parks and valleys, are exceptionally -rich lands, sufficiently level for cultivation. The Manicaragua Valley, -sloping towards the eastern edge of the Bay of Cienfuegos, is noted for -an excellent quality of tobacco grown in that region. - -Of navigable rivers, owing to the short plains between the various -divides and the coast line, there are practically none in Santa Clara, -although many of the streams have considerable length, and are utilized -for floating logs to the coast during the rainy season. The Arimao, -with its falls, known as the Habanillo, is a picturesque and beautiful -stream, rising in the mountains of the southern central zone and flowing -in a westerly direction, until it empties into the Bay of Cienfuegos. - -The Canao, another small stream with its source near the city of Santa -Clara, takes a southwesterly course and empties into the same bay. The -Damiji flows south to and into Cienfuegos Harbor. The Hanabana rises in -the northwestern extremity of the province, and, flowing south and west, -forms much of its western boundary until it empties into a little lake a -few miles north of the Bay of Cochinos, known as El Tesoro or Treasure -Lake. From this a continuation of the river known as the Gonzalo runs -due west throughout the entire length of the Cienaga de Zapata until it -empties into Broa Bay, an eastern extension of the Gulf of Batabano. - -The Manatee River is a small stream with its origin in the center of the -nest of mountains that lie north of Trinidad; it flows south until it -empties into the Caribbean, midway between the ports of Casilda and -Tunas de Zaza. The Zaza River has its origin in a number of tributary -streams in the northeast corner of the Province, whence it wanders -through many twists and turns between hills and ridges until it finally -passes into the level lands of the southwest corner of the Province, -whence it eventually finds its way to the Caribbean. This stream, -although troubled with bars just beyond its mouth, has a considerable -depth for some twenty or more miles. - -The most important river commercially in this Province, known as the -Sagua, rises a little west of the capital, Santa Clara, and flows in a -northerly direction until it empties into the Bay across from the Sagua -Light on the north coast. The city of Sagua la Grande, a small but -aristocratic place, is located about twenty miles from the mouth of the -river, and is the distributing point for that section of the province. -The river is navigable for small boats from the port of Isabella to the -city above. Another small stream, known as the Sagua la Chica, empties -into the Bay, about midway between La Isabella and the port of -Caibarien. - -The southern coast of the province of Santa Clara, not including the -indentations of gulfs and bays, is approximately two hundred and fifty -miles long. This, of course, includes the great western extension of the -Zapata peninsula, whose shore line alone is one hundred miles in length. -The northern shore, bordering on the great lagoon that separates it from -the Atlantic, measures one hundred and fifty miles, forming thus for the -province an irregular parallelogram whose average width north to south -is about seventy-five miles. - -In the center of the south coast we find the harbor of Cienfuegos, a -beautiful, perfectly land-locked, deep water bay, dotted with islands, -from whose eastern shores tall mountains loom up on the near horizon in -majestic beauty. One of the picturesque old forts of the early -eighteenth century on the west bank of the channel guards the approach -to the entrance of the harbor. Some ten miles back, located on a gently -sloping rise of ground, is the city of Cienfuegos, which next to -Santiago de Cuba is the most important shipping port on the southern -coast. - -As far as definitely known, this port was first entered by the old -Spanish conqueror Ocampo, in 1508. No definite settlement was made -however, until 1819, when refugees from the insurrection of Santo -Domingo established a colony, from which rose the present city of -Cienfuegos. These involuntary immigrants from Santo Domingo were coffee -growers in their own country, and from their efforts splendid coffee -plantations were soon located in the rich valleys and on the mountain -sides that lay off towards the northeast. Large groves of coffee, -struggling under the dense forest shade, still survive in these -mountains, from which the natives of the district bring out on mule back -large crops of excellent coffee that have been grown under difficulties. - -The city of Cienfuegos, or a Hundred Fires, is substantially built of -stone and brick, with wide streets, radiating from a large central -plaza, as in all Spanish cities the favorite meeting place where people -discuss the topics of the day, and listen to the evening concerts of the -municipal band. There are several social clubs in Cienfuegos and a very -good theatre, together with the city hall and hospital, which are -creditable to the community. The population is estimated at 36,000. - -Sancti Spiritus is one of the seven cities founded by Diego Velasquez in -1514, and still bears every evidence of its antiquity. Its streets are -crooked and but little has been done to bring the city into line with -modern progress. This is owing largely to the fact of its being located -twenty-five miles back from the southern coast, and some ten miles off -the main railroad line, connecting the eastern and western sections of -the Island. It lies on the edge of the plateau, east of the mountain -group of southern Santa Clara. An old, tall-towered church still bears -the date of its founding by Velasquez. The city has a population of -approximately 15,000. - -Santa Clara, the capital, is located almost in the center of the -province, well above the sea level. Its wide, well kept streets are -suggestive of health and prosperity. It was founded in 1689, and until -1900 was the eastern terminus of the main railroad line running east -from Havana. Rich fertile lands surround Santa Clara, while the mining -interests a little to the south, although not at present developed, give -every promise of future importance. Copper ore of excellent quality has -been found in a number of places between Santa Clara and Trinidad, while -silver, zinc and gold are found in the same zone, but up to the present -not in quantities that would justify the investment of capital in their -development. Ten thousand tons of asphalt are mined annually not far -from the city, and considerable tobacco is grown in the surrounding -country. The population is estimated at 15,000. - -Sagua la Grande is located on the Sagua River, twenty miles up from the -port of La Isabella. It is a comparatively modern city, with wide -streets, and is the distributing point for the large sugar estates of -that section. Its population is 12,000. - -The Port of Caibarien has grown into considerable importance owing to -the large amount of sugar brought in by the different railroads, for -storage in the big stone warehouses that line the wharf. Shoal water -necessitates lightering out some fifteen miles to a splendid anchorage -under the lee of Cayo Frances, on the outer edge of the great salt water -lagoon which envelops the entire north coast of Santa Clara. The -population is 7,000. - -Five miles west, on the line between Caibarien and Santa Clara, is the -little old city of Remedios, that once occupied a place on the coast, -but was compelled by the unfriendly visits of pirates, as were many -other cities in Cuba in the olden days, to move back from the sea shore, -so that the inhabitants could be warned of an approaching enemy. Around -Remedios, large fields of tobacco furnish the chief source of income to -this city of six or seven thousand people. - -The great "Cienaga de Zapata," or Swamp of the Shoe, so called on -account of its strange resemblance to a heeled moccasin, although -geographically a part of the Province of Matanzas, has nevertheless -always been included in the boundaries of Santa Clara. Its length from -east to west is about sixty-five miles, with an average width from north -to south of twenty. Many plans, at different times since the first -Government of Intervention, have been formed for the drainage and -reclaiming of this great swamp of the Caribbean, whose area is -approximately twelve hundred square miles. - -Nearly all of the surface is covered with hard wood timber, growing in a -vast expanse of water, varying in depth from one to three feet. Owing -to its lack of incline in any direction, reclamation of this isolated -territory is not easy, although the land, after the timber was removed -and the water once disposed of, would probably be very valuable. - -Enormous deposits of peat and black vegetable muck, cover the western -shores of this peninsula and will, when utilized for either fuel, -fertilizer or gas production, be an important source of revenue, as will -its forests of hard wood, when transportation to the coast is rendered -possible. - -Just east of the heel of the "Zapata" and some forty miles west of the -harbor of Cienfuegos, a deep, open, wide-mouthed roadstead projects from -the Caribbean some eighteen miles into the land, almost connecting with -the little lake known as "El Tesero" or Treasure, located at the most -southerly point of the Province of Matanzas. This roadstead, known as -the Bay of Cochinos, furnishes shelter from all winds excepting those -from the south, against which there is no protection, although abutments -thrown out from the shore might give artificial shelter, and thus render -it a fairly safe harbor. - -Quite a large forest of valuable woods lies a few miles back from the -coast, between Cochinos Bay and the harbor of Cienfuegos. The broken -surface of the dog teeth rocks, however, upon which this forest stands, -renders the removal of logs difficult and dangerous, since iron shoes -will not protect the feet of draft animals used in the transport of wood -to the coast. A narrow strip of very good vegetable land, running only a -mile or so back from the beach, extends along this section of the coast -for about twenty-five miles, awaiting the intelligent efforts of some -future gardener to produce potatoes and other vegetables on a large -scale for spring shipments to Cienfuegos. - -The great source of wealth of the Province of Santa Clara, of course, is -sugar, and to that industry nearly all of her industrial energies are at -present devoted. Seventy great sugar estates, with modern mills, are -located within the Province, yielding an annual production of -approximately eight million sacks of sugar, each weighing 225 pounds. -The fertility of Santa Clara soil has never been exhausted, and the -great network of railroads covering the Province furnishes easy -transportation to the harbors of Cienfuegos, Sagua and Caibarien. -Considerable amounts of sugar are also shipped from Casilda, the port of -Trinidad on the south coast, and some from Tunas de Zaza, at the mouth -of the Zaza River, thirty miles further east. The sugar produced in the -Province in 1918 was valued at eighty million dollars. - -The tobacco of Santa Clara Province, although not of the standard -quality obtained in the western provinces of Pinar del Rio and Havana, -still forms a very important industry. That coming from the Manicaragua -Valley, northeast of Cienfuegos, has obtained a good reputation for its -excellent flavor. - -Coffee culture in the mountains and valleys lying between Trinidad and -Sancti Spiritus, introduced by French refugees from the Island of Santo -Domingo the first years of the last century, was at one time a very -important industry. With the introduction of machinery for hulling and -polishing the beans, and with better facilities for the removal of the -crop to the coast, there is every reason to believe that this industry, -in the near future, will resume some of the importance which it enjoyed -half a century ago, or before the abolition of slavery rendered picking -the berries expensive, since this work can be done only by hand. The -growing of coffee offers a delightful and profitable occupation to large -families, since the work of gathering and caring for the berries is a -very pleasant occupation for women and children. - -Owing to the fertility of the soil of Santa Clara, the abundance of -shade, rich grass, and plentiful streams of clear running water flowing -from the mountains, there is perhaps no section of Cuba that offers -greater inducement to the stock raiser. - -The breeding of fine horses, of high-grade hogs, of angora goats, sheep -and milch cows, will undoubtedly, when the attention of capital is -called to the natural advantages of this section of the country, rival -even the sugar industry of the Province. In no part of the world could -moderate sized herds of fine animals be better cared for than on the -high table lands and rich valleys of Santa Clara. - -Santa Clara bore its part in the trials and sufferings endured by the -patriots of Cuba in the War of Independence. The range of mountains -between Sancti Spiritus and Trinidad, during those four fearful years, -furnished a safe retreat for the Cuban forces, when the soldiers of -Spain, abundantly supplied with ammunition, which their opponents never -enjoyed, pressed them too hard. It was in these dense forests and rocky -recesses which Nature had provided that the great old chieftain, General -Maximo Gomez, in the last years of the war, defied the forces of Spain. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY - - -According to the log of the _Santa Maria_, the first glimpse of the -Island of Cuba enjoyed by Christopher Columbus, sailing as he did in a -southwesterly course across the Bahama Banks, is supposed by many to -have been at some point along the northern coast of what is now known as -the Province of Camaguey. The area of this Province, including Cayos -Romano, Guajaba, Sabinal and Coco, is approximately 11,000 square miles. -The general trend of the coast lines is similar to those of the Province -of Santa Clara, and the length of each is approximately one hundred and -seventy-five miles. The average width of the province is eighty miles, -although between the southern extension of Santa Cruz del Sur and the -mouth of the harbor of Nuevitas, we have a hundred miles. - -The same gentle graceful inoffensive natives were found in this section -of Cuba as those who first received the Spanish conquerors at Baracoa -and other places in the Island. Those of the great plains belonging to -this province were known as Camagueyanos, and although for many years -Spain called this section of the island Puerto Principe, the musical -Indian term stuck, and with the inauguration of the Republic in 1901, -the name of Camaguey was officially given to this part of Cuba. - -In the year 1515, Diego Velasquez, with his fever for founding cities, -established a colony on the shore of the Bay of Nuevitas, and christened -it Puerto Principe. In those early days, however, there was no rest for -the unprotected, hence the first settlement was moved in a short time to -another locality not definitely known, but a year later the city was -permanently established in the center of the province, about fifty miles -from either shore, where it remains today, with many features of its -antiquity still in evidence. - -The first of the old Spanish adventurers who succeeded in making himself -both famous and rich without flagrant trespass of law, was Vasco -Porcallo de Figueroa, one of the original settlers whom Velasquez left -in the City of Puerto Principe founded in 1515. This sturdy old pioneer -did not bother with gold mining, but succeeded in securing large grants -of land in the fertile plains of Camaguey, where he raised great herds -of cattle and horses, exercising at the same time a decidedly despotic -influence over the natives and everyone else in that region. - -Vasco, although spending more than half of the year in the cities of -Puerto Principe and Sancti Spiritus, had a retreat of his own, probably -some place in the Sierra de Cubitas, where he held princely sway and -guarded his wealth from intrusive buccaneers and other ambitious -adventurers of those times. It was he who, meeting Hernando de Soto on -his arrival at Santiago de Cuba, escorted that famous explorer across -the beautiful rolling country of Camaguey, which he seemed to consider -as his own special domain, and finally accepted the position of second -in command in that unfortunate expedition of De Soto into the Peninsula -of Florida in 1539. Fighting the savage Seminoles was not however to his -taste, and the old man returned to Havana inside of a year, mounted his -horse and rode home, firmly convinced, he said, that Camaguey was the -only country for a white man to live and die in. - -Even with the removal of the capital far into the interior, the -peacefully inclined citizens were not free from molestation and -unwelcome visits. During the middle of the seventeenth century, the -famous English corsair, Henry Morgan, afterwards Governor of Jamaica, -paid his respects to several Cuban cities, including Puerto Principe. -In 1668 he crossed the Caribbean with twelve boats and seven hundred -English followers, intending to attack Havana. He afterward changed his -mind, however, and landing in the Bay of Santa Maria began his march on -the capital of Camaguey. - -The inhabitants made a desperate resistance, the Mayor and many of his -followers being killed, but the town was finally compelled to surrender -and submit to being sacked, during which process many women and children -were burned to death in a church behind whose barred doors they had -taken refuge. Morgan finally retired from Puerto Principe with his booty -of $50,000 and five hundred head of cattle. - -During the Ten Years' War the province of Camaguey became the center of -active military operations. The inhabitants of this section had -descended from the best families of Spain, who had emigrated from the -Mother Country centuries before. They were men of refinement and -education, men whose prosperity and contact with the outside world had -made life impossible under the oppressive laws of the Spanish monarchy. - -Ignacio Agramonte, a scion of one of the best known families of -Camaguey, was a born leader of men, and soon found himself in command of -the Cuban forces. The struggle was an ill advised one, because the odds -in numbers were too great, and the resources of the Cubans were so -limited that success was impossible. The effort of General Agramonte and -his followers, all men of note and social standing, was a brave one, and -the sacrifice of the women, the mothers, sisters and daughters, of that -period, were not surpassed by any country in its fight for liberty. - -But the unfortunate death of General Agramonte, and the long uphill -struggle, brought about the inevitable. The treaty of Zanjon in 1878 was -ultimately forced upon the revolutionists, many of whom afterwards -emigrated with their families to the United States, where some have -remained as permanent citizens of that Republic; among others, Doctor -Enrique Agramonte, a brother of Ignacio, who after fighting through the -ten tiresome years, left his country, never to return. - -In the more recent struggles for Cuban liberty, known as the War of -Independence, Camaguey again took a prominent part and General Maximo -Gomez, who had succeeded Agramonte at his death, and General Antonio -Maceo, had the satisfaction of carrying the campaign of the Occident, -from Oriente, across Camaguey, where they defeated the Spanish forces in -several battles, and in the winter of 1896 led their victorious troops -in three parallel invading columns, to the extreme western end of the -Island. Thus the revolution was carried for the first time in history -beyond the Jucaro and Moron Trocha, or fortified ditch, near the western -border of Camaguey. - -Narrow crooked streets still prevail in some parts of Camaguey and the -erection of modern buildings, that has become so common in Havana, has -not reached this quiet old municipality of the plains which still lives -and breathes an atmosphere smacking of centuries past. - -Topographically, although the surface of Camaguey, in altitude and -contour, varies much, it is, as a whole, far more level than any other -province in the Island. Great fertile savannas and grass covered plains -predominate in almost every part. The potreros, or grazing lands, of -Camaguey, have made it famous as the breeding place par excellence for -horses and cattle, and its equal is not found anywhere in the West -Indies. - -In spite of the comparatively level nature of the country, with the -exception of the low, heavily covered forest belt that sweeps along the -entire southern coast, extending back from ten to twenty-five miles, the -rest of the province partakes more of the character of an elevated -plateau, interspersed with low ranges of mountains and foothills, which -give pleasing diversity to the general aspect of the country. - -The longest range in Camaguey is a continuation of the great central -chain, that follows the trend of the Island. It begins with a prominent -peak known as the Loma Cunagua, which rises abruptly from the low level -savannas ten miles east of the town of Moron in the northwestern corner -of the Province. A little further southeast, the range again appears and -finally develops into the Sierra de Cubitas, which follows the direction -of the north coast, terminating finally in the picturesque peak of -Tubaque, on the Maximo River. - -A small stream, known as the Rio Yaguey, sweeps west along the southern -edge of this ridge and finally breaks through its western end, emptying -into the lagoon or Bay of Cayo Romano. A parallel range of lower hills, -with various spurs, lies a little south of the main Sierra de Cubitas. -The bountifully watered prairies, valleys and parks south and west of -these hills form the ideal grazing ground of the Pearl of the Antilles. -Several large herds of fine hogs and cattle, recently established in -this section, will soon play an important part in the meat supply of -Cuba. - -As in Santa Clara, an independent group, or nest, of low peaks and -beautiful forest covered hills, occupies the southeastern center of the -Province of Camaguey. The lands in this section are very fertile and the -delightful variety of hill, valley and plain renders it a very -attractive country in which to make one's permanent home. Several -elevations of moderate altitude, known as lomas, rise from the more -level country, a little to the north of the above mentioned district, -and form something of a connecting link between the Najasa, or mountains -of the southwest, and the Sierra de Cubitas of the north shore. - -As before mentioned, several chains of the north coast, originating in -Santa Clara, sweep over and terminate in Camaguey, some ten or fifteen -miles east of the boundary line. The mountains of this district, owing -to the fact that they were distant from the coast, have never been -denuded of their virgin forests, and with the opening of the Cuba -Railroad, connecting Santa Clara with Santiago de Cuba on the south -coast, and the Bay of Nipe on the north, a considerable quantity of -valuable timber has been taken out within recent years. - -Camaguey has no rivers of importance, although numerous streams flowing -from the central plateaus, toward both the northern and southern coast, -are utilized during the rainy season to float logs to shipping points. -These short streams, varying from ten to thirty miles in length, each -form basins or valleys of rich grass lands that are always in demand for -stock raising. Between the Jatobonico del Sur, which forms a part of the -western boundary of the Province, and the Rio Jobobo, which forms the -southeastern boundary, are more than a dozen streams emptying into the -Caribbean. Among these are Los Guiros, the Altamiro, the Najasa and the -Sevilla. - -The Najasa has its origin a little south of the City of Camaguey, and -passes through a heavily timbered country, carrying many logs to the -landing of Santa Cruz del Sur. A railroad was surveyed from the latter -city to the capital some years ago, but has never been completed. - -On the north coast, between the Jatibonico del Norte, which forms the -northwestern boundary, and the Puentes Grandes, forming the -northeastern, we have some ten or a dozen short streams, among the most -important of which are the Rio de los Perros, emptying into the Lagoon -of Turaguanao; the Rio Caonao emptying into the lagoon of Romano; the -Jiguey, cutting through the western extremity of the Sierra de Cubitas -and emptying into the eastern end of the above mentioned lake; the Rio -Maximo, rising on the south side of the chain, sweeping around its -eastern end and emptying into the Bay of Sabinal; and the Saramaguacan, -one of the longest in the province, rising in the mountains of the -Najasa, whence it flows in a northeasterly direction and empties into -the harbor of Nuevitas. Both the Chambas and the Rio Caonao, when not -obstructed by mud bars at their mouths, are navigable for light draft -schooners and sloops, for some twelve or fifteen miles into the -interior. - -At no point on the south Coast of Camaguey can be found any harbor -worthy of the name, although at Jucaro, Santa Cruz del Sur and Romero, -considerable timber and sugar are shipped from piers that extend out -into the shallow waters of the Jucaro and Guacanabo gulfs. - -The long system of salt water bays or lagoons, beginning at Punta Hicaco -in Matanzas, continues along the entire north coast of Camaguey and -terminates in the beautiful harbor of Nuevitas. The lagoons of Camaguey -are formed by a series of keys or islands, of which Cayo Romano, -seventy-five miles in length, with an average width of ten miles, is the -most important. - -Although most of the area of this island is covered with a dense jungle -of low trees, the eastern end rises to quite a high promontory, with -more or less arable land, planted at the present time in henequen, and -yielding a very good revenue to the owner. An unknown number of wild -ponies, variously estimated at from six hundred to two thousand, inhabit -the jungles of Cayo Romano, living largely on the leaves of the forest, -and consequently degenerating in size and form to such an extent that -they have a very little commercial value. - -Cayo Coco, really an extension of Romano, reaches out to the westward -some fifteen miles further, while the Island of Guajaba, separated by a -narrow pass with only three feet of water, incloses the beautiful harbor -of Guanaja. Sabinal, some 25 miles in length by ten or twelve in width, -forms the northern shore of the harbor of Nuevitas. On the latter key -there is fairly good grazing ground and much territory that eventually -will probably be planted in henequen, as is the promontory of Nuevitas, -just north of the city of that name. - -These salt water lakes or bays are often twenty-five miles or more in -length by ten wide and with an average depth of fifteen feet. -Unfortunately, not only are they separated by narrow passes seldom -carrying over three feet, but exit to the ocean for any craft drawing -over five or six feet is very difficult to find. - -The harbor of Nuevitas, in the northwestern corner of the Province, is -one of the finest in the Island. Its width varies from three to ten -miles, while its length is approximately twenty, carrying excellent deep -water anchorage throughout almost its entire extent. A peculiar -river-like opening, six miles in length, deep and narrow, connects it -with the Atlantic Ocean. - -In proportion to its size, the province of Camaguey has less railroad -mileage than any other in the Island. Until 1902, when Sir William Van -Horn, late President of the Cuba Company, connected the City of Santa -Clara by rail with Santiago de Cuba, there were but two railroads in -that section of the country. One, the Camaguey & Nuevitas Road, -connected the capital with practically the only shipping point on the -north coast. Another, built many years before, for military purposes, -connected the town of San Ferrando, on the north coast, with Jucaro on -the south coast, and ran parallel with what was known as the Trocha, a -military ditch about eighty kilometers in length, with two story -concrete forts at each kilometer, and low dug-outs, or shooting boxes, -located midway between the principal forts. The ground was cleared on -either side of the railroad for a kilometer, while on both sides a -perfect network of barbed wire, fastened by staples to the top of wood -stakes, rendered it difficult for either infantry or cavalry to cross -from one side to the other. This modern military device was established -by the Spanish forces in 1895, so as to prevent the Cubans from carrying -the revolution into Santa Clara and the western provinces. - -As in the other provinces of Cuba, cane growing and the making of sugar -forms the chief industry, although, owing to the wonderfully rich -potreros, or grazing lands of Camaguey, the raising of live stock in the -near future will doubtless rival all other sources of wealth in that -section. - -There are twenty sugar mills in the province with a production of -approximately 3,000,000 bags. The two mills at Las Minas and Redencion, -between Camaguey and Nuevitas, have been in operation for many years, -but with the opening up of the Van Horn railroad a new impetus was given -to sugar production, and during the past ten years, some eighteen new -mills have been established at various points along the railroad where -lands were fertile and comparatively cheap. - -A line known as the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, connecting the city of -Nuevitas with Caibarien, in Santa Clara Province, some 200 miles west, -was surveyed and capital for it was promised, in 1914. The breaking out -of the European war delayed work on the road, but its completion can be -assured in the near future. - -Several large sugar estates have been located along the line that will -open up a territory rich in soil and natural resources. Important iron -mines, too, in the foothills of the Sierra de Cubitas, are waiting only -this transportation to add an important revenue to the Province. A great -deal of valuable timber will be available when the line is in operation. - -Owing to the large beds of valuable ore belonging to the mineral zone of -the Cubitas, it is quite probable that the mining industry will some day -rank next to that of general farming in Camaguey, although as far as -natural advantages are concerned, there is no industry which in the end -can rival that of stock raising. - -During 1895, the first year of the War of Independence, over a million -head of sleek, fat cattle were registered in the Province of Camaguey, -where the grasses are so rich that an average of seventy head can be -kept in condition throughout the year on a hundred acres of land. The -two grasses commonly found in Camaguey were both brought from abroad. Of -these, the Guinea, imported from western Africa, grows luxuriantly on -all the plateaus and higher lands of the province, while the Parana, a -long running grass from the Argentine, does best in the lower lands and -savannas. One stock man of Camaguey at least, has succeeded in producing -splendid fields of alfalfa, from which seven or eight cuttings are taken -each year. - -Fruits of all kinds, especially oranges and pineapples, grow luxuriantly -in this Province, but owing to the lack of transportation, the railroad -haul to Havana being practically prohibitory, shipments of fruit and -vegetables to the northern markets are confined almost entirely to a -steamer which leaves the harbor of Nuevitas once every two weeks. - -Owing perhaps to the rich and comparatively cheap lands offered by the -Province of Camaguey, more Americans are said to have settled in this -section than in any other part of Cuba. The first colony, called La -Gloria, was located in 1900 on the beautiful bay of Guanaja or Turkey -Bay, some five or six miles back from the shore. The location, although -healthful and in a productive country, was most unfortunate as far as -transportation facilities were concerned. Two hundred or more families -made clearings in the forests of the Cubitas, and there made for -themselves homes under adverse circumstances. The worst of these was the -isolation of the spot, and lack of communication with any city or town -nearer than Camaguey, some forty-five miles southwest, or Nuevitas, -forty miles east; without railroads, wagon roads, or even water -communication by vessels drawing over seven feet. - -The Zanja, or ditch, some three miles in length, connecting the harbor -of Nuevitas with Guanaja Bay, was recently dredged to a depth of three -or four feet, so that launches can now pass from La Gloria to Nuevitas, -but aside from the fertility of the soil, there was but little to -commend La Gloria as a place of permanent residence. Only grit and -perseverance on the part of sturdy Americans has sustained them during -the past sixteen years. But they concluded to make the best of the -situation in which they found themselves, and are producing nearly -everything needed for their subsistence. A considerable amount also of -farm produce and fruit will soon be shipped to northern markets from the -harbor of Nuevitas. A very creditable agricultural fair is held in La -Gloria each winter, and the contents of the weekly paper seems to bear -every evidence of progress and content. In spite of adverse conditions, -the people of La Gloria have prospered and enjoy there many comforts not -found in colder climates, and with the opening up of the North Shore -Road, this really attractive section of country, which includes several -smaller colonies scattered along the water front, will be brought in -close touch once more with the civilization of the outside world. - -Another colony, also unfortunate in its location, was established at -Ceballos on the Jucaro and Moron railroad, about eight miles north of -its junction with the Cuba Company road at Ciego de Avila. The soil was -well adapted to the growth of citrus fruit, and large groves were laid -out by Americans, some ten or twelve years ago, along the line of the -old clearing that bordered the Trocha. The groves, as far as nature -could provide, were successful, but the excessive freight rates between -Ceballos and either the city of Havana or the Bay of Nipe, have proved -discouraging to the original settlers. - -Several smaller colonies have been located along the Cuba Company's -railway and the line connecting the city of Camaguey with Nuevitas, but -again the long distance between these points and large markets, either -local or foreign, have worked to the disadvantage of the growers. If -stock raising instead of fruit growing had occupied the time and -attention of these American pioneers, more satisfactory results would -have been obtained. - -Nuevitas, located on the southern shore of the harbor of that name, is a -modern city with wide streets and a population of approximately 7,000 -people. Its location, at the terminus of the Camaguey Railroad, and on -the only harbor of the north coast, renders it a place of considerable -commercial importance, since large quantities of sugar, lumber and -livestock leave the port during the year, while coasting steamers of -local lines touch every few days. - -Camaguey, the capital of the Province, so long known as Puerto Principe, -has a population of about 45,000 people. The natives of this city have -long enjoyed and merited an enviable reputation for integrity, -intelligence and social standing, traits that were inherited from a -number of excellent families who came to Cuba from Southern Spain in the -early colonial days. The rich grazing lands of Camaguey and the -salubrious climate, not only of the north coast, but of the great -plateaus of the interior, were very attractive to the better class of -pioneers who came over in the sixteenth century in search of peace, -permanent homes and wealth based on legitimate industry. - -There is no section of the Island more highly esteemed for the integrity -of its people than that of the isolated, aristocratic city of Camaguey, -such as the families of Agramonte, Betancourt, Cisneros, Luaces, -Sanchez, Quesada and Varona. Nearly all these families through the long -painful Ten Years' War suffered privations, followed by exile and loss -of everything but pride, dignity and good names. - -Most of them made permanent homes in the United States, but many of -their children, educated in the land that gave their parents shelter, -have returned to their native country and occupied positions of trust -and responsibility in the new Republic. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -PROVINCE OF ORIENTE - - -The Province of Oriente, called by Spain Santiago de Cuba, forms the -eastern extremity of the Island, and is not only the largest in area, -but, owing to the exceptional fertility of its soil, the great number of -magnificent harbors, the size and extent of its plains and valleys, -together with the untold wealth of its mines of iron, copper, manganese, -chrome and other minerals, it must be considered industrially as one of -the most important provinces of Cuba. - -Its area consists of 14,213 square miles, its form is triangular, Cape -Maysi, the eastern terminus of the island, forming the apex of the -triangle, while the base, with a length of about one hundred miles, -extends from Cabo Cruz along the Manzanillo coast to the north shore. -One side of the triangle, formed by the south coast, has a length of -nearly 250 miles, while another, without counting the convolutions of -the sea coast, borders for two hundred miles on the Atlantic. - -Mountain chains follow both the north and south shores of Oriente, while -about one-third of its area, which composes the eastern section, is a -great tangle or nest of irregular mountains, flat top domes, plateaus, -and foothills, with their intervening basins, parks and valleys. - -While the main chain, or mountainous vertebrae, seems to disappear in -the Sierra de Cubitas of Camaguey, it reappears again, just west of the -Bay of Manati, in the extreme northern part of the province, and extends -along the north shore at broken intervals, until it finally melts into -that great eastern nest of volcanic upheavals that forms the eastern end -of the Island. From this north shore chain, innumerable spurs are thrown -off to the southward between Manati and Nipe Bay, reaching sometimes -twenty-five or thirty miles back into the interior. - -[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN ROAD, ORIENTE] - -Along the southern shore of Oriente from Cabo Cruz to Cabo Maysi, -ascending at times abruptly from the beach, and at others dropping back -a little, we have the longest and tallest mountain range of Cuba. One -peak, known as Turquino, located midway between the city of Santiago de -Cuba and Cape Cruz, reaches an altitude of 8,642 feet. - -From the crest of this range, known as the Sierra Maestra, the great -network of spurs are thrown off to the north toward the valley of the -Cauto, while between these mountain offshoots several of the Cauto's -most important tributaries, including the Cautill, Contraemaestre and -Brazos del Cauto, have their sources. - -Most of the mountainous districts are still covered with dense tropical -forests that contain over three hundred varieties of hard woods, the -cost of transportation alone preventing their being cut and marketed. - -The interior of the Province, from the Mayari River west, is the largest -valley in Cuba, with a virgin soil marvellously rich through which runs -the Cauto River, emptying into the Caribbean Sea, a little north of the -City of Manzanillo. This stream, with its tributaries, forms the most -extensive waterway in the Island. - -A tributary on the north known as the Rio Salado, rising south of the -city of Holguin, flows in a westerly direction and empties into the -Cauto just above the landing of Guamo, some fifteen miles from the -Caribbean. Small streams empty into all of the numerous deep water gulfs -and bays that indent the north coast of Oriente. Each serves its purpose -in draining adjacent lands, but none, with the exception of the Mayari, -is navigable. This stream, the most important perhaps of the north -coast, rises in the eastern center of the Province, cutting its way west -along the base of the Crystal Mountains, until it reaches their western -end, whence it makes a sharp turn to the north, and after tumbling over -the falls, gradually descends and empties into Nipe Bay. - -The Sagua de Tanamo and its tributaries drain quite a large basin east -of the Mayari, and empty into the Gulf of Tanamo. The Moa, a short -stream, rises not far from the Tanamo but flows north to the ocean. The -Toa, flowing east, cuts through valleys for fifty miles, and finally -empties into the Atlantic thirty miles west of Cape Maysi. - -But little is known of this river; and like many of the streams which -for countless centuries have been cutting their tortuous ways through -the table lands and gorges of the eastern part of Oriente, its shores -have seldom been visited by human beings since the Siboney Indians, who -once made that section their home, gave up trying to be Christians and -took their chances of happiness on the other side of the "Great -Divide." - -The Harbor of Puentes Grandes, that separates Oriente from Camaguey on -the north coast, is sufficiently deep for ordinary draft vessels, but -owing to sand spits and coral reefs that extend for some distance out -into the Atlantic, and to the fact that good harbors lie within a few -miles on either side, commerce up to the present has never sought this -place as a port of entry. - -About twelve miles east, however, we have the Bay of Manati with a -fairly easy entrance and an elbow-like channel that will give anchorage -to vessels drawing fathoms. On the shore of Manati Bay has been -established a very fine sugar mill surrounded by thousands of acres of -cane grown in the Yarigua Valley. Sugar is exported from this port -directly to the United States. - -Within the next twenty-five miles, east, are found two well protected -harbors, Malagueta and Puerto Padre. The latter is the deeper and more -important, owing to the large basin of fertile lands immediately -surrounding it. Puerto Padre has excellent anchorage and belongs to the -type of narrow mouthed bays so common to the north coast of Cuba. - -On the eastern shore of Puerto Padre are located two of the Cuban -American Sugar Company's largest mills, "El Chaparra" and "Las -Delicias," each with a capacity of 600,000 bags of sugar per year. These -two mills are considered, both in location and equipment, among the -finest in the world. The sugar, of course, is shipped directly from -Puerto Padre to New York, rendering them independent of railroad -transportation, and consequently large revenue producing properties. - -General Mario Menocal, General Manager of the Cuban American Company's -mills, began his great industrial career at Chaparra, which he left to -assume the Presidency of the Republic in 1913. It is a very neat little -city, with wide avenues, comfortable homes, good schools and many of the -conveniences of much larger places. President Menocal visits Chaparra -several times during the grinding season each year. - -Some thirty-five miles east we have the large open roadstead of Jibara, -with sufficient depth of water to provide for shipping, but with very -little protection from northerly gales. On the western side of this -harbor is located the city of Jibara, which forms the shipping place for -the rich Holguin district, some thirty miles south. - -Some forty miles further east, around the bold Punta de Lucrecia, we -have another fine, deep-water, perfectly protected harbor, known as the -Bay of Banes, whose rich valleys lying to the south and west contribute -cane to the Ingenio Boston, belonging to the United Fruit Company, whose -output is approximately half a million bags of sugar per year. - -Southeast of Banes, about fifteen miles, we reach the entrance of the -Bay of Nipe, considered one of the finest and best protected harbors in -the world. Its entrance is sufficiently wide for ships to pass in or out -at ease, while the bay itself furnishes forty-seven miles of deep water -anchorage. - -Nipe Bay is a little round inland sea, measuring ten miles from north to -south by fifteen from east to west. The Mayari River flows into the bay -from the southern shore and furnishes, for light draft boats, -transportation to the city, some six miles up the river. On the north -shore of the bay is located the town of Antilla, terminus of the -northern extension of the Cuba Company's lines, and one of the most -important shipping places on the north coast. On the Bay of Nipe is -located the Ingenio Preston, one of the finest sugar mills in Cuba, -contributing 371,000 bags in the year 1918 to the sugar stock of the -world. - -Some seven or eight miles east of the entrance of Nipe lies another -large, beautiful, land-locked bay, or rather two bays, separated by a -tongue of land extending into the entrance of the harbor and known as -Lavisa and Cabonico, both of which are deep, although the first -mentioned, with a length of eight miles and a width of six, is the -larger of the two. The shores of both these harbors are covered with -magnificent hardwood forests, most of which have remained intact. The -lands surrounding them are rich, and will, within a very short time, -probably be converted into large sugar estates. These beautiful virgin -forests, with their marvellously fertile soil, surrounding the harbors -of Lavisa and Cabonico, might have been purchased ten years ago at -prices varying from eight to twelve dollars an acre. In 1918 they were -sold at fifty dollars per acre, and were easily worth twice that sum. - -Fifteen miles further east we have another fine deep-water harbor known -as Tanamo. Its entrance is comparatively easy, and although the bay is -very irregular in shape, the channel furnishes good anchorage for fairly -deep draft vessels. The Sagua de Tanamo River, whose tributaries drain -the rich valleys south of the bay, has its source in the great nest of -mountains in the eastern end of Oriente. - -Baracoa, some twenty miles east, is a small, picturesque anchorage, but -with almost no protection against northerly winds, and for this reason -cannot rank as a first class port, although a good deal of shipping -leaves it during the year, the cargoes consisting mostly of cocoanuts -and bananas, for which this district has always been quite a center of -production in Oriente. - -It was on this harbor that Diego Velasquez made the first settlement in -Cuba, in the year 1512. He called it the city of Nuestra Senora de la -Asuncion, but the original Indian name of Baracoa has remained attached -to the spot where Spanish civilization began in the Pearl of the -Antilles. - -It was here that General Antonio Maceo with a little band of thirty men -landed from Costa Rica in March, 1895, and began the War of -Independence, which ultimately led to the formation of the Republic of -Cuba. - -Rounding Cape Maysi at the extreme eastern end of Cuba, and following -the south coast, no harbor is found until we reach Guantanamo Bay, -nearly a hundred miles west. This magnificent harbor was first visited -by Columbus on his second voyage when he sailed along the south coast in -1494. The celebrated navigator referred to it as "Puerto Grande," but -the original Indian name of Guantanamo again replaced that of the white -invaders. - -The Bay of Guantanamo is considered one of the finest harbors in the -world. It was selected from all the ports of Cuba by Captain Lucien -Young in 1901 as the best site for a naval station in the West Indies -for the United States Navy. Arrangements were later made between Cuba -and authorities in Washington, by which it was formally ceded for that -purpose. Not only is Guantanamo a large bay, extending some fifteen -miles up into the interior, but its mouth is sufficiently wide and deep -to permit three first-class men of war to enter or leave the harbor -abreast at full speed, without danger of collision or contact with the -channel's edge on either side. - -The Guantanamo River, after draining the great wide valleys that lie to -the north and west, enters the Bay on the western shore. The City of -Guantanamo, some fifteen miles back, is connected by rail with the -coast, and also with the city of Santiago de Cuba, fifty miles further -west. It was founded toward the end of the eighteenth century by French -refugees from Santo Domingo, and has at present a population of 28,000. - -Eleven large sugar estates are located in the Guantanamo valley, which -is one of the largest cane producers in Oriente. - -Fifty miles further west we find the harbor of Santiago de Cuba, -absolutely land-locked, and probably the most beautiful of all in the -West Indies. Its entrance, between two headlands, is narrow and might -easily escape observation unless the passing vessel were less than a -mile from shore. Rounding the high promontory of the east, with its -old-fashioned fort of the middle eighteenth century, one enters a -magnificent bay, dotted with palm covered islands, gradually opening -and spreading out towards the north. Its winding channels present -changing views at every turn, until the main or upper bay is reached, on -the northern shore of which is located the city of Santiago de Cuba, -that for half a century after its founding in 1515 was the capital of -Cuba. - -Santiago played a very important part in the early history, or colonial -days, of the Pearl of the Antilles, passing through the trials and -tribulations that befell the first white settlers in this part of the -Western Hemisphere. Not many years after its founding, it was sacked and -burned by French corsairs. - -Santiago was one of the few cities in all Cuba that retained the names -given them by their Spanish founders. It was here in June, 1538, that -Hernando de Soto, appointed Governor by the King of Spain, recruited men -for that unfortunate expedition into the great unknown territory across -the Gulf, which cost him his life, although his name became immortal as -the discoverer of the Mississippi River. - -Santiago became famous in American history through the destruction of -Cervera's fleet by Admirals Sampson and Schley, and the capitulation of -the city to United States forces in July, 1898. It has a population of -about 45,000. The city lies on the southern slope of the plateau, rising -from the bay towards the interior. Its streets are well laid out and -fairly wide, with several charming little parks, or plazas, such as are -found in all Latin American cities. - -The commercial standing of the city is based on the heavy shipments of -sugar and ores, iron, copper and manganese mined in the surrounding -mountains. The building of the Cuba Company's railroad connecting it -with the other end of the Island and with the Bay of Nipe on the north -coast, did much towards increasing the importance of Santiago. The -outlying districts of the city are reached by a splendid system of -automobile drives, surveyed and begun at the instigation of General -Leonard Wood, then governor of the Province, in 1900. These well-built, -macadamized carreteras wind around hills and beautiful valleys, many of -which have a historic interest, especially the crest of the Loma San -Juan, or San Juan Hill, captured by the American forces in the summer of -1898. A unique kiosk has been built on the summit of this hill from -which a view of El Caney, over toward the east, and many other points -which figured in that sharp, brief engagement, are indicated on brass -tablets, whose pointed arrows, together with accompanying descriptions, -give quite a comprehensive idea of the battle which loosened the grip of -the Spanish monarchy on the Pearl of the Antilles, and made Cuban -liberty possible for all time to come. In the valley just below is a -beautiful Ceiba tree, under which the peace agreement between American -and Spanish commanders was concluded in July, 1898. The grounds are -inclosed by an iron fence with various inscriptions instructive and -interesting. - -Santiago is named in honor of the Patron Saint of Spain, and the -Archbishop of Cuba, in keeping with custom and early traditions, still -makes his headquarters in this picturesque and historically interesting -capital of the Province of Oriente. - -Between Santiago and Cabo Cruz, one hundred and fifty miles west, is but -one harbor worthy of mention, the Bay of Portillo, a rather shallow -although well protected indentation of the south coast. On the rich -level lands at the base of the mountains back of and around the harbor -of Portillo, grow enormous fields of cane, feeding the mill on the -western side of the bay. Several other indentations of the south coast -furnish landing places from which either timber or agricultural products -may be shipped, when southerly winds do not endanger the anchorage. A -small harbor known as Media Luna, between Cabo Cruz and Manzanillo, -forms the shipping place of the Ingenio Isabel, which produced 175,000 -sacks of sugar in 1918. - -The somewhat shallow harbor of Manzanillo is located at the mouth of a -small stream in the Sierra Maestra. Vessels of more than fifteen feet -draft, find the Manzanillo channel somewhat difficult. The city itself -is comparatively modern, with wide streets regularly planned and laid -out. Its population is about 18,000, although the municipal district -contains some 35,000 inhabitants. Manzanillo is one of the chief -shipping ports and distributing points for the rich valley of the Cauto, -the largest valley by far in Cuba. This river during the rainy season is -navigable for river boats for some hundred miles to the interior. Bars -that have formed near its mouth on the west shore of Guacanabo Gulf -prevent the navigation of deeper craft. - -The City of Bayamo, located on the Bayamo River, a tributary of the -Cauto, is connected by the southern branch of the Cuba Company's -Railroad with Manzanillo, twenty-five miles west, and also with Santiago -de Cuba. It was one of the original seven cities founded by Diego -Velasquez in 1514. In the early days of colonial occupation, Bayamo -passed through the same period of trials and tribulations that afflicted -nearly all of the early settlements in Cuba. - -Historically it has never been prominent as the birth-place of struggles -in which the natives of Cuba endeavored to throw off the yoke of Spain. -It was the home of Cespedes, the first revolutionary President of the -Island, who freed his slaves in 1868, and with a small force of men -raised the cry known as the "Crita de Baire," that started the Ten -Years' War. - -Again, in February, 1895, General Bartolome Maso with his son and a few -loyal companions left his home in the city of Bayamo, and at his farm -called "Yara" declared war against the armies of the Spanish Monarchy, -never surrendering until Independence was eventually secured through the -defeat of Spain by American forces in 1898. The city, although boasting -only of some 5,000 inhabitants, is located in the fertile plains of -the Cauto Valley, known throughout the world as the largest sugar cane -basin ever placed under cultivation. The Cuban National Hymn had its -origin in this little city and is known as the "Himno de Bayamo." - -[Illustration: ON THE CAUTO RIVER - -The Cauto River, traversing Oriente Province, is the largest stream in -Cuba, and is of inestimable value for navigation, for water supply, and -for drainage. It is the salient feature of many fine landscape scenes, -ranging from the idyllic to the majestic.] - -Holguin, located in the northern center of the Island, among picturesque -hills and fertile valleys, is the most important city in northern -Oriente. It was founded in 1720, receiving its charter in 1751, and -boasts of a population of about 10,000. The harbor of Gibaro, -twenty-five miles north, with which it is connected by rail, is the -shipping port of the Holguin district. The country is very healthful and -long noted as a section in which Cuban fruits acquire perhaps their -greatest perfection. Americans living in this city, within the last ten -years, have established splendid nurseries, known throughout the Island. - -Victoria de las Tunas, a small city located on the Cuba Company's -Railroad, some 20 miles from the western boundary of the Province, -acquired celebrity in the War of Independence owing to its capture after -a siege of several days by the Cuban forces under General Calixto -Garcia, in the fall of 1897. - -It was in this engagement that Mario Menocal, then Chief of Staff with -the rank of Colonel in the insurgent forces, distinguished himself -through a brilliant charge made at a critical moment, in which he led -his Cuban cavalry against the well equipped forces of Spain. Colonel -Menocal was wounded in this engagement, but as a reward for intelligent -and courageous action he was shortly afterward made Brigadier General, -and given command of the insurgent forces in the Province of Havana, -which he held up to the time of the Spanish surrender in 1898. - -An incident indicative of the character and discipline of the Cuban -forces took place at the capture of Victoria de las Tunas, when General -Calixto Garcia, after caring for the Spanish wounded, furnished an -escort to protect his prisoners and non-combatants who wished to leave -the city, in a march overland to the town of Manati, where they were -delivered into the safe keeping of the Spanish authorities, as the -Cubans were unable to keep prisoners owing to shortage of food. General -Calixto Garcia was a native of Holguin, owing to which fact, perhaps, -much consideration was shown to both persons and property in the -surrounding district, where he had both friends and relatives. - -The sugar industry, of course, as in all provinces but Pinar del Rio, is -the chief source of wealth in Oriente. The entire northeastern half, -including the great valley of the Cauto River, as well as the rich lands -in the valley of Guantanamo, and the basin surrounding the Bay of Nipe, -are devoted almost entirely to the production of sugar. The European War -of 1914 gave a great impetus to this industry, owing to the demands made -by the allies for this staple food product. An illustration of this may -be found in the increased acreage of cane in Oriente between the years -of 1913 and 1918. In 1913 Oriente was producing 3,698,000 bags, while in -1918 the sugar crop reach 6,463,000 bags. Forty-two large sugar centrals -are in operation in Oriente at the present time, with a marked increase -each year. - -Next in importance to the production of sugar ranks stock raising. -Thousands of acres that cover the plateaus, foothills, mountains, parks -and valleys, supplied as they are with an abundance of fresh water and -splendid grass, furnish strong inducements to the stock grower of -Oriente, who has nothing to fear from cold, snow, drought or storm. The -profits of stock raising where the business is conducted under -intelligent management, are certainties, which is true of all sections -of the Island adapted to this industry. - -Coffee, as in the provinces of Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio, owes its -introduction into Cuba to the French refugees who, driven by revolution -out of Santo Domingo, fled to Cuba and settled there in the first years -of the nineteenth century. The large profits that have resulted from -the cultivation of sugar cane have undoubtedly drawn capital from the -coffee industry, and unless a sufficient amount of cheap labor can be -secured, the gathering of this crop is not always profitable. In spite -of the rather heavy tariff, and the excellent quality of the bean, it is -compelled to compete with the imported article from Porto Rico and other -countries. It is quite probable, too, that through years of neglect in -cultivation, the habit of prolific bearing has deteriorated. - -The rich, narrow, deep soiled vales among the tangled mountains that -cover the eastern extremity of the province are especially adapted to -the growth of cacao, but in spite of most satisfactory returns most of -the farmers of Cuba seem to prefer life in the open potreros, with its -cultivation of sugar cane and care of live stock, to that of comparative -retirement, imposed upon those who devote themselves to coffee and cacao -in the mountainous districts. Cacao, nevertheless, owing to the more -extensive manufacture of chocolate in all parts of the world, is in -increasing demand, and it is practically certain that the near future -will bring immigrants from mountainous countries, who will find the -cultivation of both coffee and cacao to their liking, as well as to -their permanent profit. - -But very little tobacco is grown in Oriente, aside from that which has -long been cultivated on the banks of the Mayari River. In the -neighborhood of the little village bearing that name, considerable -tobacco of an inferior grade has been grown for many years, The German -Government up to the blockading of her ports in 1914, consumed almost -the entire Mayari crop, the soldiers of that country seeming to prefer -it to any other tobacco. - -More valuable timber grows in the interior of Oriente than in any other -part of Cuba, and much of it will probably remain standing until more -economical methods are introduced by which logs can be conveyed to the -coast for shipment. Large amounts of cedar and mahogany are exported -every year from Oriente, especially from the valley of Sagua de Tanamo, -which empties into Tanamo Bay on the north coast. - -Several American colonies have been located in the different parts of -this province, most of them devoting their energies to the growing of -fruits and vegetables that are shipped to northern markets from the -terminus of the railroad at Antilla, on Nipe Bay. Some of them, too, -have built up stock farms that are giving splendid results. - -Owing to the size of the province, and its comparatively few -inhabitants, greater opportunities for colonization are found here than -in the western end of the Island. Thousands of acres of magnificent -lands, at present owned in huge tracts, are still available for purchase -and division into small farms. These would furnish homes for families -that might be brought from Italy and the Canary Islands greatly to the -profit of the Republic itself as well as to the immigrants. People of -this class are especially desired in Oriente, and every effort is being -made by the Government to encourage their immigration, since energy, -combined with a fair degree of intelligence, on the rich lands of this -section of Cuba, can result only in success. - -The mineral wealth of Oriente is undoubtedly greater than that of any of -the other provinces. Although both iron and copper have been mined here -for many years, the mineral zones of the Island have never been fully -exploited, or even intelligently prospected, by men familiar with the -mining industry. Copper was discovered by the early Spanish conquerors -and mined at El Cobre, in the early years of the 16th century. The ore -deposits of this mine have never been exhausted, and are still worked -with profit. The same mineral has been discovered in other sections of -the province, but owing to lack of transportation facilities, but little -effort has been made towards mining it. The Spanish Iron Company, for -more than a half century, has been taking iron ore from the sides of -the mountains on the coast, just east of the city of Santiago de Cuba, -and shipping it from the port of Daquiri. - -These mines are in the form of terraces, that are cut into the sides of -the mountains, so that the ore can be easily withdrawn and shipped to -the United States for smelting purposes. These properties have recently -changed hands, and with the investment of greater capital will soon be -put into a still higher state of production. - -Perhaps the most profitable iron mines in the Republic are those owned -by the Bethlehem Steel Company, in the Valley of the Mayari, some -eighteen or twenty miles back from the coast. The mineral here is easily -removed from the surface, and sent by gravity down to the large reducing -mills on the shore of the Bay, where most of the waste material is -washed out with water. The iron ore of Oriente is of a very high grade -and is impregnated with a sufficient amount of nickel to add greatly to -its value. - -The recent demand for chrome, brought about by the enormous increase in -the consumption of steel in the United States, brought the chrome -districts of the world, including those of Cuba, into considerable -prominence. The great shortage of tonnage, too, made it inconvenient to -bring chrome from Brazil. Recent investigations made in Cuba, however, -demonstrated the fact that this Province alone, with the investment of a -few hundred thousand dollars in road building, can supply the mills of -the United States with all the chrome and manganese needed for the -development of the steel industries. Several manganese mines are being -worked at the present time, most of them on the northern slope of the -Sierra Maestra, whence the ore is conveyed by rail to Santiago de Cuba -and shipped to Atlantic ports, where the demand is greatest. - -The development of the mining industry in Oriente has hardly begun, but -with the enormous amount of iron and copper that will be needed for -building purposes throughout the world in the near future, there is -every reason to believe that this province will have an opportunity to -open up and to work many of her mines, with very satisfactory returns on -the capital invested. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -THE ISLE OF PINES - - -Although from the early days of Spanish conquest the Isle of Pines was -considered by Spain as an integral part of Cuba, as are Cayo Romano and -all other adjacent islands, in the treaty of Paris that concluded the -controversy in regard to Spain's possessions in the West Indies the Isle -of Pines was referred to as a locality distinct in itself, and as -possibly not coming within the jurisdiction of Cuban territory. - -A rule placed on any mariner's chart of the West Indies, connecting in a -straight line Cabo Cruz, in the Province of Oriente, and Cape San -Antonio, the western extremity of Cuba, includes the Isle of Pines -within the limits of the seismic uplift which formed the Pearl of the -Antilles. More than all, during much of the geological history of the -region across the shallow sandy bed, covered now with only a few fathoms -of water, the Isle of Pines was connected by land with Cuba. - -During the first government of American intervention, several ambitious -citizens of the United States bought large tracts of territory in the -Isle of Pines, whose owners considered them of so little value that they -parted with them at prices varying from 75 to $1.25 per acre. These -properties were immediately divided up into small farms, varying from -five to forty acres, and placed on the market in the United States. With -glowing descriptions of the country they were sold at prices gradually -increased from $15 to $50 and even $75 an acre. - -In view of the beautiful printed matter so widely distributed, and the -values which fertile farming lands in the United States had acquired in -recent years, these prices apparently did not seem exorbitant, -especially to men of means, who during the greater part of their -experiences had fought out the struggle of life in the cold northwest. -Many Americans were thus induced to come and settle in the Isle of -Pines, with the hope, if not of amassing a fortune as pictured in the -alluring terms of the propaganda, at least of securing a competence for -their declining years. - -More than all, the Isle of Pines was thoroughly advertised throughout -the American Union as belonging to the United States, whose emblem of -Liberty floated as an indication of ownership never to be lowered. This -matter of ownership was finally brought before the Congress of the -United States and through treaty with the Republic of Cuba, afterwards -confirmed by decision of the Supreme Court of the United States, was -definitely settled in favor of the smaller Republic. Cuba, in -consideration of the waiving of all American claims on the Isle of -Pines, agreed to cede to the United States coaling stations at Bahia -Honda and Guantanamo. Thus the disputed territory retained its original -position as the southern half of the judicial district of the Province -of Havana. - -The Island contains approximately 1200 square miles, a third or more of -which is occupied by a large swamp bounded on the north by a depression -running east and west across the Island, and extending to its southern -shore on the Caribbean. The soil as a rule is sandy and poor, lacking -nearly all the essential elements of plant food, and hence, for -successful agriculture, needs large quantities of fertilizer. - -The natural drainage of the Island is good, and the climatic conditions -are almost identical with those of Cuba. Aside from poverty of soil, -that which has most obstructed its prosperity is its geographical -position, lying as it does some fifty miles from the mainland, within -the curve formed by the concave littoral of the southern shore, from -which it is separated by shallow seas and sand bars. The only harbor -with sufficient depth for ocean going steamers is the open roadstead of -La Ensenada de Siguanea, which furnishes little or no protection from -heavy western winds. Vessels plying between the Isle of Pines and the -United States are compelled to go several hundred miles out of their way -in rounding the western extremity of Cuba. - -All products raised in the Isle of Pines at the present time are shipped -on light draft steamers to the landing of Batabano, whence they are -transferred to a branch of the United Railways of Havana and carried -across Cuba to the wharves of the capital for export. This loss of time -and breaking of bulk has been, of course, disadvantageous to the fruit -and vegetable growers of the Isle of Pines. Nevertheless large -shipments, especially of grape fruit, have been made, and during those -seasons in which Florida has suffered from frost, the returns to the -grower have been very satisfactory. - -Unfortunately, too, this interesting outpost of the Republic of Cuba -lies directly within the path of the cyclones which during the months of -September and October form in the Lesser Antilles to the southwest, and -travelling northwesterly rake the Caimeros, the Isle of Pines and the -extreme western end of Cuba. These great whirling storms usually pass -through the straits between Cape San Antonio and Yucatan, following the -curve of the western Gulf States until exhausted in the forests of -northern Florida and Georgia. The cyclone of October, 1917, destroyed -all the fruit of the Isle of Pines and practically ruined the citrus -groves, greatly discouraging the people who had devoted so many years of -time and toil to their care and development. - -In spite of these disadvantages, however, the greater part of the -Americans who have made their homes in the Isle of Pines, with genuine -Yankee grit, refuse to lose courage, and have started all over again to -restore those sections that were temporarily devastated. The Isle of -Pines is not an attractive place for the man of small means, since -considerable capital is absolutely necessary for successful agriculture -in that section. Nevertheless, there is every reason to believe that -with time, and intelligently directed effort, the Island may eventually -become a really valuable asset to the Republic. - -There seems to be no reason why the great deposits of muck from the -swamps which form the southern part of the Island, lying also along the -coast of the mainland in many places, might not be transferred to those -soils of the Isle of Pines lacking in humus, and thus in time build a -foundation of sufficient fertility to produce almost any crop desired. - -In the northern half of the Isle of Pines are several low mountains, or -ridges and hills, especially on either side of Nueva Gerona, which are -composed largely of crystalline marble known as the Gerona marble. It is -probable also that this same material forms part of the Sierra Pequena, -or Little Ridge, located a few miles east, as well as that of the Sierra -de Canada seen in the distance. - -This marble is thoroughly crystalline, retaining little or no trace of -organism that it may originally have held. The greater part of it is -rather coarse, although there are some beds of fine white statuary -marble. The color varies from pure white to dark grey, with strongly -marked banding in places. These rocks probably belong to the Paleozoic -age, although the crystalline character of the material renders the -period of their origin somewhat doubtful. In some beds the impurities of -the original limestone have recrystallized and formed silicate minerals, -chiefly fibrous hornblende. This deposit of marble has been estimated to -be not less than 2,000 feet in thickness. - -The drinking water of the Isle of Pines is abundant, and like that of -nearly all other parts of Cuba is of excellent quality. Several mineral -springs exist which have a local reputation for medicinal properties. -Many beautiful homes, and miles of splendid driveways, have been built -by the property owners of the Isle of Pines, who have a natural pride in -its beauty and development. - -To those pioneers from the United States who have done so much towards -the regeneration and building up of this section, that has always been -agriculturally despised, or at least ignored by the natives, the -Government of Cuba feels greatly indebted, and it realizes fully that -only through immigration of this kind will this excellent work be -continued. Agricultural fairs, to which the Government of Cuba -contributes a generous amount for prizes, are held each year in the -Island, and social life among the residents, enlivened as it is by -visitors from the north during the winter season, is said to be -charming. - -The principal cities are Nueva Gerona and Santa Fe, while numberless -small colonies are found every few miles along the highways that have -been built within the last ten years. The Isle of Pines has an -attractive future and many of the rosy dreams of the early American -pioneers, with time, patience and capital, will undoubtedly be -realized. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -MINES AND MINING - - -After a lapse of more than four centuries, there are grounds for -believing that the dreams of the early Spanish conquerors, who overran -Cuba shortly after its discovery by Columbus, may be realized, though -not exactly as they expected. Gold may never be found in paying -quantities, yet the mineral wealth of the Island may exceed in value its -present agricultural output, which amounts annually to hundreds of -millions of dollars. The followers of Columbus as a rule cared little -for the more quiet pursuits of agriculture, but were obsessed with a -craving for the precious metals, and during the first half of the 16th -century, with the aid of the Indians, mined and shipped a sufficient -amount of gold to encourage greatly the rulers of Spain, who were quite -as persistent in their craze for the yellow metal as were the pioneers -of the New World. - -Narvaez, Velasquez's most active lieutenant, at the head of 150 men in -1512, marched from Oriente westward in a wild search for gold. Samples -of this metal were found in various places and sent back to Velasquez, -who forwarded them to King Ferdinand. The seven cities founded within -the next two years were said to have been selected, not owing to the -fertility of their soil or on account of advantageous locations, but -solely with reference to their proximity to gold deposits. - -In spite of these early discoveries, however, the amount of gold found -in Cuba, although encouraging at the time, has never approached the -value of other metals far more common and found in almost unlimited -quantities. The district that first seems to have yielded a fair amount -of gold was along the shores of the Arimao River, where the Cubenos -panned a few hundred dollars in nuggets from the bed of the stream, and -this determined the location of the city of Trinidad in 1514. - -The first and largest shipment of gold from the Island of Cuba, -amounting to $12,437, was forwarded to Spain in the summer of 1515, and -was converted into coin of the realm by the King. Since the royal share -was one-fifth of all produced, it would seem that the total yield during -the first four years in Cuba amounted to $62,000. - -The large quantities of gold found in Mexico by Cortez, some ten years -later, so greatly excited the Spanish conquerors in their quest for this -metal, that gold mining in Cuba gradually became an abandoned industry, -and by 1535 had practically ceased. Since that time there have been no -discoveries that would seem to justify further search. - -Some time during the year 1529, copper was discovered on the crest of a -hill known as Cardenillo, about ten miles west of Santiago de Cuba. -Mines in this vicinity had apparently been previously worked by the -Cubeno Indians, who did not enlighten the Spaniards in regard to their -existence. The value of the find was not recognized until a certain -bell-maker, returning as a passenger from Mexico, visited the mines and -analyzed samples of the ore. As a result of his report the people of -Santiago soon became aroused over the prospective value of the find and -petitioned the crown for experts and facilities with which to develop -the mine. - -Dr. Ledoux, the famous French metallurgist, carefully analyzed the ore -from these mines, and as a result reached the conclusion that the -natives of Cuba, although apparently making no use of the copper -themselves, had trafficked with the Indians of Florida, since in the -many assays made of the copper relics of those tribes, it was found that -the same percentage of silver and gold were contained in them as was -found in the ore of the Cuban deposits. No other copper ores known have -percentages of silver and gold so closely identical to those of "El -Cobre." - -Little was done, however, toward the development of the Santiago mines -until 1540, when the Spanish crown found itself short of material with -which to make castings for its artillery and ordered an investigation of -the Cuban copper deposits. In April of 1540, a German returning from a -Flemish settlement in Venezluela visited "El Cobre" and entered into an -agreement with the town council to work the mine. The ore yielded, -according to the records, from 55% to 60% of pure copper, carrying with -it also gold and silver. Samples were again sent to Spain to be tested -by the crown. In 1514 forty negroes were set to work in the mines, under -the direction of Gaspar Lomanes, and smelted some 15,000 pounds. - -In 1546 the German referred to above, John Tezel of Nuremberg, returned -from Germany, where he had carried samples of ore from the "El Cobre" -and reported it "medium rich in quality and very plentiful in quantity." -Tezel spent the remainder of his life, 20 years, in exploiting the -copper of that section. - -Up to 1545 Juan Lobera had shipped 9,000 pounds of Cuban Copper to -Spain. In the spring of 1547 still further shipments that had arrived in -Seville and were ordered cast into artillery to be placed in the first -fort in Cuba, La Fuerza, for the protection of the City of Havana. Three -cannon were cast, of which one, a falconet, burst in the making, and was -perhaps responsible for the report that Cuban copper was of "an -intractable quality." - -Don Gabriel Montalvo, appointed Governor of Cuba in 1573, was much -impressed by the reports he had heard of the rich copper deposits near -the city of Santiago de Cuba, and visited some of the old workings, but -found the native Cubenos very reluctant to give him information in -regard to mineral deposits, fearing evidently that they would be -compelled to work in them as miners. - -A copper deposit was soon afterwards found near Havana, and samples of -ore were forwarded to Spain with the request that 50 negroes be detailed -to exploit the mine. The quality of the ore was apparently satisfactory -for the casting of cannon, and the king ordered that it be used for -ballast in ships returning from Havana, in order to furnish material for -the Royal Spanish Navy. - -In 1580, some mining was done, but the find soon proved to be a pocket -and not a true vein, and the cost of transportation to Havana was -declared prohibitive, in spite of the fact that it showed a "fifth part -good copper." Other copper mines were afterwards reported in the -neighborhood of Bayamo, near the southeastern center of the Province of -Oriente. - -In May, 1587, although comparatively little copper had been taken from -"El Cobre" mine, due largely to lack of food crops in the vicinity with -which to supply the slaves, the Governor reported that "There is so much -metal, and the mines are so numerous that they could supply the world -with copper, and only lately there is news of a new mine of even better -metal than the rest." - -Effective work in these mines began in 1599. The much needed protection -from the incursion of pirates and privateers, that had long preyed on -Spain's possessions in the West Indies, revived industries of all kinds -in Cuba, especially copper mining and ship-building. Juan de Texeda, who -had been commissioned by the King to go to Havana and do what he could -towards protecting the rich shipments of gold that were being sent from -Mexico to Spain against the attacks of the English Admiral, Drake, -sampled Cuban copper and pronounced it excellent. On the site of the -present Maestranza Building, now devoted to the Department of Public -Works and the Public Library, Texeda soon established a foundry, where -he "cast the copper into both cannon and kettles." - -The mining of copper with profit depends on the price of the metal in -the market and on the cost of extracting and transporting the ore to the -smelter. This, of course, is true with all metals, hence it frequently -happens that mines containing abundant ore are not worked, owing to the -fact that the cost of production, when taken into consideration with the -market price, eliminates the possibility of profit. During the past -century the mines of "El Cobre" and vicinity, the extent of whose -deposits seem to be almost unlimited, have been worked at such times and -to such an extent as the market price of the ore would seem to justify. - -Indications, such as boulders that through seismic disturbances or -erosion seem to have rolled down from their original beds, and -occasional outcroppings of copper-bearing ore, are found in every -Province of the Island, although up to 1790 but few explorations worthy -of mention were made outside of the Province of Oriente. The demands for -metals of all kinds, especially chrome, manganese and copper, have -resulted in more or less desultory prospecting since 1915, which has -resulted in finding outcroppings of copper scattered throughout the -mountains of Pinar del Rio. Claims have been located near Mantua, -Vinales, Las Acostas, Santa Lucia, Pinar del Rio, and at various places -between La Esperenza and Bahia Honda along the north coast. - -Reports of copper or "claims," resulting from traces found, have been -made also in the Isle of Pines and at Minas, only a short distance east -of the city of Havana, in that province. Copper claims have been -registered near Pueblo Nuevo, too, in the Province of Matanzas. In the -province of Santa Clara, claims have been recorded in the districts of -Cienfuegos, Trinidad and Sancti Spiritus. Several very promising copper -mines have been opened up in this province that will undoubtedly yield a -profit if worked under intelligent management and with the judicious -employment of capital. In the Province of Camaguey, copper has been -discovered near Minas, and as several different places along the line of -the Sierra de Cubitas. In Oriente, copper claims have been registered -near Holguin and Bayamo, while "El Cobre," of course, has been famous -for its yield of ore since the days of the Spanish conquerors. - -The excessive demand for copper resulting from the War in Europe, -together with the high prices offered for that metal, recalled the fact -that many years ago Spanish engineers and prospectors, among the hills -of Pinar del Rio, frequently found small outcroppings of copper ore, and -in some cases sank shafts for short distances, where the ore had been -removed and carried to the coast on mule back. The low price of copper -at that time, however, and the scarcity of labor following the abolition -of slavery at the conclusion of the Ten Years' War, discouraged serious -work on the part of the old timers, traces of whose efforts still remain -at various points along the northern slope of the Organos Mountains. - -The first record we have of the exploration of the mineral zone in which -the famous copper mine of this Province was discovered, dates back to -1790, but it resulted in no definite or profitable work. An English -company of which General Narciso Lopez was president, during the early -part of the 19th century, made some explorations in the district of El -Brujo and Cacarajicara, located in the mountains back of Bahia Honda; -but the defeat of Lopez's revolutionary forces, and his subsequent -execution in 1851, put an end to the effort. - -Shortly after the Spanish American War, Col. John Jacob Astor, the -American millionaire, became interested in the copper deposits of Pinar -del Rio, which resulted in the establishment of several claims, none of -which, however, were developed. Shortly after this a Mr. Argudin located -claims known as Regelia and Jesus Sacramento, the former only two -kilometers from that of the mine Matahambre. A small amount of -preliminary work was done, but apparently proved unpromising. - -In 1912 Alfredo Porta, a well-known citizen and politician of Pinar del -Rio, interested Mr. Luciano Diaz, a former Secretary of the Treasury and -a man of some means, in a claim which he had denounced some eight -kilometers back from La Esperanza, on the north coast of the province. -Messrs. Porta and Diaz secured the services of an experienced mining -engineer, Mr. Morse, who visited the district, made a careful survey of -the claim, and informed the owners that in his estimate Matahambre was -worthy of the investment of any amount of capital, since the grade of -the ore, and the amount exposed through Mr. Morse's preliminary work, -was sufficient to place it in the list of paying mineral properties. - -Work began at Matahambre in the early part of 1913 under the technical -direction of C. L. Constant, of New York. During the first year a number -of galleries, only a little below the surface, were thrown out in -different directions. Paying ore found in these galleries was very -promising. The first two carloads of ore, shipped by rail from the City -of Pinar del Rio to Havana, sold for a sufficient amount of money to pay -for all of the preliminary work that had been done. In 1915, a shaft was -sunk to a depth of 100 feet and afterwards carried down to the 400-foot -level, where it about reached the level of the sea. Later this shaft was -sent down 150 feet further. The ore taken out at the 400-foot level -proved to be the highest grade of all found, although it is said that no -ore was encountered at any depth that was not of sufficient value more -than to pay for the cost of mining. In fact the percentage of gold and -silver in many cases has paid for the expense of mining the copper. In -1918, six shafts, known as 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, were in operation, and -all yielding excellent ore. There are some 15 different varieties of -copper ore taken from Matahambre. - -The ore for some time was conveyed to the docks at Santa Lucia with mule -teams and motor trucks. These were eventually replaced by wire cables -and the ore was sent to the coast by gravity, greatly decreasing the -cost of transportation. Splendid wharves and receiving sheds, dumps, -etc., have been built at Santa Lucia, whence the ore is lightered out to -deep water anchorage. Fully 300 tons a day are now being removed and -conveyed to the landing. An average of 8,000 tons a month is shipped in -steamers that can take aboard 800 tons a day. This mineral is consigned -to the United States Metal Refining Company. In 1916, thirty-three -steamers carried 75,000 tons of mineral to this Company. - -Quite a little city has sprung up around the mine, and 2,000 men are -given employment by the Company. Comfortable quarters have been erected -for the officials, employees and other members of the force. A large -amount of ore was mined in 1918 and held for the completion of a new -concentration plant, which will enable the Company to utilize ore which -under war freight rates would not have been profitable to export. -Following the demise of Sr. Luciano Diaz, his son Antonio Diaz assumed -control and is carrying on the work of the proposed improvements. - -At the time of the closing of the Spanish rgime in Cuba, fourteen -mineral claims had been made in the Province of Pinar del Rio. Between -1909 and 1911, 212 were denounced, including 48 of the Company headed by -Mr. Astor. From 1911 to 1918, 2970 claims were registered in the Bureau -of Mines. A large proportion of the interest in copper mining in Pinar -del Rio was undoubtedly the result of the wonderful wealth that has come -from Matahambre, the ore from which mined in 1916 was valued at -$5,500,000. - -Not until the early part of the 19th century did the presence of those -enormous deposits of iron ore found throughout the mountain districts of -Oriente present themselves to the outside world as a profitable -commercial proposition. - -Nearly all of the great iron deposits of Oriente lie within a few feet -of the surface; and on the southern slopes of the Sierra Maestra it is -necessary only to scrape the dirt from the side of the hills, take out -the ore and send it down to the sea coast by gravity. Similar conditions -exist at the Mayari mines on the north coast, just back of Nipe Bay, -where the deposits need nothing but washing with cold water. The soil -being thus removed at little cost, the iron is ready for shipment to the -smelters of the United States. - -In spite of the fact that this ore was found to be equal to the best -Swedish, and that nature in her own laboratories had supplied the -requisite amount of nickel and manganese, making these mines of Oriente -perhaps the most valuable in the world, but little attention has been -paid to this marvellously rich source of minerals, beyond those few who -are drawing dividends from the industry. The recent purchase of the -Spanish American Iron Company's holdings at Daiquiri for $32,000,000, -however, has called the attention of mining interests in the United -States to the fact that millions of tons of untouched ore still lie in -the eastern provinces of Cuba. Twenty-five percent of the area of -Oriente contains wonderful deposits of ore, mostly iron, and awaits only -the necessary capital to place it on the markets of the world. - -This nickeliferous iron ore, in which the presence of nickel, so -essential to the making of steel, has been contributed by nature in just -the right proportions, is found in large quantities also in the -provinces of Camaguey and Pinar del Rio. The extent of these mineral -deposits is not yet known, but millions of tons are in sight, awaiting -only cheap transportation to bring them into the markets of the world, -where the grade and quality of the ore will undoubtedly command -satisfactory prices. - -Up to the present time nearly all of the iron ore exported from Cuba -comes from the large deposits of Oriente. The iron on the south coast is -loaded into the steamers from the wharves at Daiquiri and Juraguay. That -on the north coast, brought down from the Mayari mines, is shipped from -the harbor of Nuevitas. - -Below are given the tons of copper and iron shipped from Cuba during the -year from July, 1917, to June, 1918: - - IRON COPPER - tons tons - July to December, 1917 272,403 41,809 - January to June, 1918 218,301 52,569 - Total 490,704 94,378 - -On the south side of the Sierra de Cubitas, in the Province of Camaguey, -a distinctly marked zone of this excellent iron ore runs parallel to the -main chain of the Cubitas for many miles. Grass covered hills, rising -more or less abruptly from the surface, seem to be composed of solid -masses of iron ore. So great is the value of this mineral zone that the -North Shore Road of Cuba, now under construction and practically -completed from its eastern deep water terminus on Nuevitas Harbor to the -Maximo River just east of the Sierra de Cubitas, was primarily intended -as a means of exploiting and conveying the ore from this zone to the sea -coast. - -In the western portion of the Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio, other -deposits of nickeliferous iron have been denounced and registered, -although the cost of building a railroad to deep water on the north -coast up to the present prevented the development of the mines, located -about 20 miles southeast of Arroyo de Mantua. - -With the enormous amount of constructive work that will undoubtedly -follow the great European War, in which iron and steel will play such an -important part, there is every reason to believe that capital will be -forthcoming with which to build the necessary roads and to develop the -nickel bearing iron ores of Cuba. - -Structural steel, today and in the future, will probably play a greater -part in the world's progress and development than any other one of the -products of nature. The demand for steel, of course, was greatly -accentuated by the European conflict, without which modern warfare would -be practically impossible. The splendid steel turned out in our mills of -today would be impossible of manufacture without the addition of a -certain percentage of either manganese or chrome. The alloys of these -two metals with iron gives steel its elasticity, hardness and real -value. - -Manganese ores are found in California, Colorado, Arkansas, Georgia, -Michigan, New Jersey and Virginia, but nowhere within the limits of the -United States have the United States have the deposits of manganese -proved to be sufficiently extensive to supply the domestic requirements -of the country, even in normal times. The total output of manganese in -the United States in 1901 was less than 12,000 tons. Southern Russia -contains very large deposits of the metal, but up to 1919, 70% to 80% of -the manganese consumed in the United States had been brought from the -interior of Southern Brazil. - -The immediate and imperative demand for both manganese and chrome, -impelled the Government at Washington to seek other sources, closer by, -in order to save the time consumed in securing shipments from Brazil. - -Small amounts of manganese had been secured from Cuba during the ten -years previous to the War, but the extent of these deposits remained -unknown until, in the spring of 1918, the United States Geological -Survey and Bureau of Mines sent two expert engineers, Messrs. Albert -Burch, consulting engineer of the Bureau of Mines, and Ernest F. -Burchard, geologist of the United States Geological Survey, to Cuba in -order to ascertain the quality and quantity of manganese and chrome that -might be furnished by that Republic. - -The party reached Havana in the latter part of February, and were there -joined by Sr. E. I. Montoulieu, a Cuban mining engineer, detailed by the -Treasury Department to act as an escort and associate throughout -research work in the Island. During the two months of their stay these -gentlemen made a rapid survey of the more important chrome and manganese -zones, the report of which was made to the United States Government in -September of 1918. - -The chrome deposits, which up to the time of the visit of these -engineers had attracted attention in Cuba, are all located within -distances varying from ten to twenty-five miles from the north coast of -the Island. Some twelve groups were examined which displayed -considerable diversity in quality, size and accessibility. - -Manganese claims have been registered near Mantua and Vinales, in the -Province of Pinar del Rio, but time did not permit an extended study of -those deposits. Valuable manganese deposits of known value are found -also in the districts of Cienfuegos and Trinidad in the Province of -Santa Clara. By far the largest deposits of this ore, and the only ones -that are being extensively worked, are located in the Province of -Oriente. - -The most westerly deposit of chrome visited was found in the eastern -part of Havana province, and two others were located, one near Coliser, -in the Province of Matanzas, another near Canasi, and a third near the -automobile drive about half way between the City of Matanzas and -Cardenas. In the province of Camaguey, only a few miles north of the -city, valuable deposits of chrome were found quite accessible to the -railroad for shipment. Other chrome deposits were found in Oriente; one -near Holguin, another south of Nipe Bay, and three groups in the -mountains not far from the coast between Punta Corda and Baracoa. - -All of the chrome deposits examined by these engineers were found in -serpentinized basic rocks. The ore lies in lenticular and tabular -masses, ranging in thickness from one to more than fifty feet. The ore -is generally fine grained to medium coarse, and runs from spotted -material, consisting of black grains of chromite ranging in diameter -from 1/30 to 1/4 of an inch, embedded in light green serpentine, to a -solid black material containing little or no visible serpentine. - -Most of the masses of ore are highly inclined and certain of them are -exposed in ravines, on steep hillsides and in mountainous or hilly -regions. The deposits west of Nipe Bay are in areas of moderate relief, -and those near Camaguey are in an area of very low relief. The deposits -in the eastern part of Oriente, which are the largest visited, are in a -mountainous country and very difficult of access. - -In Havana Province small pockets of chrome ore have been found about two -miles south of Canasi, ten miles from the railroad. A little mining has -been done and about 600 tons of ore shipped. - -In Matanzas Province small deposits of chrome were visited on the "Jack" -claim, seven miles northwest of the railroad station on Mocha, and on -the Anna Maria claim ten miles west of Cardenas. The latter is only two -miles from the railroad but no ore had been shipped from it. -Considerable development work has been done on the "Jack" claim and -about 450 tons of ore were on hand in February of 1918. - -Another promising claim was located in a group of several serpentine -hills that rise from the comparatively level surface about a mile north -of kilometer 36, on the automobile drive between Cardenas and Matanzas. -The outcropping chrome and loose lumps of float, found on the surface, -were of high grade, exceeding probably 50%. - -Since the visit of the American engineers another very promising -chromite claim has been located some four kilometers from the railroad, -near Coliseo, in the Province of Matanzas. The owners of this claim -announce an unlimited quantity of good grade ore, and were shipping in -the winter of 1918 and 1919 two carloads of ore per day to the United -States by rail, using the Havana and Key West Ferry. Messrs. Burch and -Burchard state in their report that the geological conditions in the -areas referred to above warrant further exploration. - -The deposits of chrome examined in Camaguey consist of three groups, -which lie along a narrow zone, beginning nine miles north of the City of -Camaguey and extending southeast to a point only two miles from Alta -Gracia, on the Nuevitas Railroad. A level plain, covered with a thin -mantle of clay and limonite gravel, extends from the City of Camaguey -northward until its junction with the hills of the Sierra de Cubitas, -rendering the country easily accessible by wagon road. Float ore is -found in this zone, and broken ore caps some ten or twelve small hills -that rise from five to fifty feet above the surrounding surface. In this -zone there are also fifteen or more other outcroppings of chromite, -most of them obscured by broken ore and rock debris. Prospecting has -been done here to obtain samples of ore for analysis, but it has not -shown either the nature or the extent of the deposits. On the surface, -however, there is a considerable quantity of ore in the form of broken -rocks or coarse float, probably 20,000 tons. - -Ten samples of ore from the deposits near Camaguey contain from 27% to -36% of chromic oxide. Only two produced less than 30% while a few ran -above 35%. This is a low grade ore but is suitable for certain purposes. -If it should require concentration, sufficient water is available in -small streams within a mile of the deposit. - -Twenty miles north of Camaguey, near the eastern end of the Cubitas iron -ore beds, are several other deposits of chrome that were examined by A. -C. Spencer of the United States Geological Survey in 1907. All of these -denoted noteworthy quantities of chrome float, apparently of high grade, -and the occurrence of tabular bodies of chrome from one to five feet in -width. On one claim boulders of chrome ore are distributed over a belt -of some 1700 feet, and on another, fragments of ore are found in an area -150 by 250 feet. On still another claim, five deposits lie within an -area measuring 1200 by 3000 feet. One of these seems to be continuous -for something over 900 feet. - -Both chrome and manganese are scattered throughout various sections of -Oriente and the largest deposits of these minerals as well as those of -iron are located in this Province. Small deposits of chrome are located -some seven miles northeast of Holguin, on the slopes of a low ridge of -serpentine that lies between two higher ridges of steeply inclined -limestone, about a half mile distant from each other. One pocket had -yielded about 150 tons of ore, which with 25 tons of float was ready for -shipment in March, 1918. Analysis of samples showed an average of 34% of -chromic oxide. The maximum content of chromium in pure chromite is -46.66% and the content of chromic oxide is 68%. Late in July of that -year the company's consulting engineer reported that a large body of 40% -ore had been developed, and that in all about 500 tons were ready for -shipment. - -One of the larger deposits of chrome that gives promise of a -considerable output is located on the south slope of the Sierra de Nipe, -about seven miles southeast of Woodfred, the headquarters of the Spanish -American Iron Company's Mayari mines. The upper part of the ore body -crops out of a steep hillside about 300 feet above a mountain stream, -flowing into a small tributary of the Mayari River, and seems to be from -ten to thirty feet in thickness. Where it does not crop out, it lies -from 30 to 50 feet below the surface. The ore varies in quality, the -better grade carrying as high as 48% of chromic oxide, with 7% to 15% of -silica, and 7% to 10% of iron. The deposit was estimated to contain -about 50,000 tons of chrome ore, 25,000 tons of which would carry more -than 40% of chromic oxide and the remaining 25,000 tons between 34% and -40%. - -The Cayojuan group of chrome ore claims are located on both sides of a -small river emptying into Moa Bay, and lie at an altitude of about 750 -feet above the sea level. An outcrop that extends around the hill for -about 300 feet, and covers some 6,400 square feet, has been prospected. -Samples on analysis gave an average of 38.1% chromic oxide. - -The Narciso claim, which nearly surrounds the above group, includes an -ore body that crops out on a steep hillside, about 500 feet above the -river. A sample of ore from this outcrop showed an analysis of 34.8% of -chromic oxide. - -The Cromita claims, one the left side of the river, contain three known -ore bodies, and hundreds of tons of boulder float ore, in an arroyo or -gulch. The ore bodies are exposed on the side of a bluff at a height of -150 to 300 feet above the river. The most northerly ore body shows a -face 20 feet wide and 15 feet high. The middle body includes an outcrop -75 feet long and 50 feet high and has been penetrated by cutting a -tunnel. Geological conditions would indicate that these bodies are -connected within the hill. Samples of these ores on analysis varied from -26% to 40.5% of chromic oxide. - -The deposits of the Cayojuan group contain probably about 22,500 tons of -available chrome ore, but may run as high as 60,000 tons. These -estimates include 2,000 tons of float ore in the Cayojuan River and the -tributary arroyo. The group of deposits is about eight miles by mule -trail from an old wharf at Punta Gorda, to which a road will have to be -built along the valley of the Cayojuan, a narrow gorge bordered in many -places by steep cliffs. A light tramway for mule cars, or a narrow gauge -steam railway, will probably be the most economical way of removing the -ore. - -The Potosi chrome claim is located on Saltadero Creek four miles above -its mouth. This is a tributary of the Yamaniguey River. The ore body is -a steeply dipping lens that reaches a depth of more than 100 feet and at -one place has a thickness of 250 feet with a length along the strike, of -45 feet. The upper edge crops out about 325 feet above the creek bed, -and about 600 feet above sea level. The ore is medium to coarse grained. -Some of the material in the drifts is spotted but most of the -outcropping and float ore is black and of good appearance. According to -the analysis that accompanied the report of G. W. Maynard, the -representative ore contains 35% to 41% chromic oxide. This deposit -contains from 10,000 to 20,000 tons and the work of getting the ore to -the coast involves rather a difficult problem in transportation. - -A small body of chrome ore occurs on the Constancia claim, -three-quarters of a mile south of Navas Bay, and about 100 feet above -the sea level. The ore body appears to extend about 50 feet along the -face of a gently sloping hill. It is not of a uniform quality, being -largely a spotted ore; that is chromite mixed with serpentine ganue. -About six feet of better ore, however, is exposed in a cut some 25 feet -in length. This contains 39.4% chromic oxide. Water for concentration is -available near by in the Navas River, and a road could easily be built -to the bay, but this is not deep enough for steamers, so it would have -to be lightered four miles north to Taco Bay, or ten miles southeast to -Baracoa. Another body containing about 10,000 tons of chrome ore of -low-grade lies in the mountain eight miles south of Navas Bay. - -The reserves of marketable chrome ore that have been prospected in Cuba -up to the summer of 1918, range from 92,500 long tons to 170,000. The -largest known deposits of chrome ore, or at least the largest of those -visited by the engineers Burch and Burchard in the spring of 1918, are -those of the Caledonia, and the Cayojuan and the Potosi claims, near the -northeast coast of Oriente Province, in a region of rather difficult -access. According to indications, they will probably yield 130,000 tons -of ore, most of which can be brought to the present commercial grade by -simple concentration. - -The next largest group of chrome ore deposits is near Camaguey. They are -very easy of access, but are of a lower grade than those of Oriente. -They appear to contain a maximum of about 40,000 tons of ore that can be -gathered by hand from the surface. - -Near Holguin, Cardenas and Matanzas, are small stocks of ore ready for -shipment, perhaps 1,000 tons. The most productive chrome mine operating -in the fall of 1918 seemed to be that of the "Britannia Company," -located about twelve miles southwest of Cardenas and about 80 miles from -Havana. Two carloads a day were being shipped by rail from Coliseo to -Havana, and thence by ferry to Key West and northern smelters. - -The manganese ores of Cuba occur principally in sedimentary rocks such -as limestone, sandstone and shale, that in places have become -metamorphosed, but in the most heavily mineralized zones are associated -with masses of silicious rocks, locally temed "jasper" and "byate." In -one locality the manganese and its silicious associates were found in -igneous rocks, such as Latite-porphyry and Latite. The sedimentary rocks -with which manganese deposits are usually associated are in some places -nearly horizontal, but generally show dips ranging from a few degrees to -forty-five or more. The inclined beds usually represent portions of -local folds. Some faulting is shown in the vicinity of various manganese -deposits and may have influenced the localization of the deposits. - -Manganese ore is found in Oriente, Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio -provinces, but only in Oriente has it been found in large commercial -quantities. In Oriente the deposits are in three areas, one north and -northeast of Santiago de Cuba, another south of Bayamo and Baire, and -the third on the Caribbean coast between Torquino Peak and Portillo. The -first two include the most extensive deposits on the Island. In Santa -Clara ore has been found near the Caribbean coast west of Trinidad, and -in Pinar del Rio Province manganese ore occurs north of the city of -Pinar del Rio and farther west near Mendoza. - -The deposits of the northeast coast and those south of Bayamo, distant -from each other approximately 100 miles, show nevertheless an -interesting concordance in altitude. They stand from 500 to 1200 feet -above sea level and nearly all of them are at altitude near 600 and 700 -feet, suggesting a relation between the deposition of the manganese and -a certain stage in the physiographic development of the region. Most of -the manganese ore deposits are above drainage level, on the slopes of -hills of moderate height, the maximum relief in the immediate vicinity -of the deposits seldom exceeding 500 feet. - -The deposits of manganese ore examined in Cuba are rather diverse, but -may be grouped into three general physical types--buried deposits, -irregular masses associated with silicious rock or "jaspar," and -deposits in residual clay. The buried deposits comprise several -varieties, one of the most common being of poorly consolidated beds of -sandy chloritic material, cemented, with manganese oxides, that fill -inequalities in the surface of hard rocks. Other bedded deposits clearly -replace limestone, shale conglomerate or other rocks, and tabular masses -of ore are interbedded with strata of nearly horizontal limestone. The -ore consists largely of Pyrolusite, but many deposits contain -Psilomelane, Manganite and Wad, or mixtures of all these materials. The -richness of the deposits varies considerably. Most of the richest masses -are associated with the "jaspar," but masses that have replaced -limestone are also very rich. - -The deposits of manganese examined in the Santiago district comprise the -Ponupo Group, the Ysobelita, Botsford, Boston, Pilar, Dolores, Laura, -San Andrea, Cauto or Abundancia, Llave and Gloria Mines, together with -the Caridad and Valle prospects. All of these properties except the two -prospects are producing ore. The Ponupo, Ysobelita and Boston mines were -opened many years ago and have produced a large quantity of ore. The -Ponupo and Ysobelita are still relatively large producers, though the -grade of ore is not so high as that shipped in the earlier days. The -Ponupo mine is connected with the Cuba Railroad at La Maya by a branch -two miles long, and a narrow gauge track from Cristo, on the Cuba -Railroad, runs to the Ysobelita mine three miles distant. Extensions of -this line to the Boston and Pilar mines can be made with little -additional outlay. The Dolores and Laura mines are near the Guantanamo & -Western Railroad, not far from Sabanilla station, and the Cauto mine is -adjacent to the Cuba Railroad at Manganeso Station. The other mines are -from one to eight miles from the railroad, to which the ore is hauled -mainly by oxcarts. In the rainy season these roads are impassable, and -even in the dry season they include many difficult places, so that the -quantity of the output is much less than could be mined under different -circumstances. - -The ore is mined by hand, mostly from open cuts, though short drifts -and tunnels have been run into lenses of ore at the Ponopu, Cauto and -Laura mines, and a slope has been driven on a thin tabular mass of ore -between strata of limestone, dipping about 34 degrees, at the Botsford. - -High grade ore may be selected in mining the richer parts of these -deposits, but most of it requires mechanical treatment, such as long -washing and jigging to free it from clay, sand and other impurities. At -one mine the ore is cleaned by raking over a horizontal screen in a -stream of water. Log washers are in operation at some mines and under -construction at others. At one time a system of washing, screening and -jigging is employed. They daily production of manganese ore in March, -1918, from this district, was about 300 tons. - -The approximate average composition of the ore now shipped is as -follows: - - Manganese 38.885% - Silica 12.135% - Phosphorus .084% - Moisture 11.201% - -The greater part of the manganese ore from this district contains from -36% to 45% manganese, a few thousand tons running over 45%. - -The manganese deposits examined by Messrs. Burch and Burchard south of -Bayamo consist of the Manuel, Costa group, 18 to 23 miles by wagon road -southwest of Bayamo; the Francisco and Cadiz groups, 15 and 20 miles -southeast of the same city; and Guinea, Llego and Charco Redondo, seven -to eight miles southeast of Santa Rite; and the Adriano and San Antonio -mines, 9 to 10 miles south of Bayari. Other deposits, further to the -southeast, are in what is known as the Los Negros district. But little -mining has been done so far in this district. Deposits of milling ore -are available and will undoubtedly be developed later if prices remain -favorable. - -It was estimated in April, 1918, that the output of manganese from this -district, during 1918, would not exceed 12,000 tons, half of which would -be high-grade ore carrying from 45% to 55% of manganese. Later -developments, however, indicated a much larger output. - -The reserve of manganese ore in this section was estimated at about -50,000 tons, but this does not include the Los Negros district which -lies further southeast, 25 to 35 miles from the railroad. Engineers who -have examined this zone believe that with good transportation facilities -it will yield a large output of high-grade ore from many small deposits. - -Aside from difficult transportation facilities in some districts, one of -the chief obstacles in the way of a large yield of ore from the mines -has resulted from an inability to hold a sufficient number of miners at -certain mines, owing to an inadequate supply of foodstuffs. Many workmen -preferred to work in the sugar mills where good food was more readily -obtained and living conditions were easier. Lack of explosives also -handicapped mining in some districts. The building of narrow gauge -railroads in which the Cuban Federal Government will probably assist -will greatly contribute to the successful or profitable mining of -manganese in the Province of Oriente. The fact that most of the ore is -removed during the dry season, when the Cuba Company's roads are taxed -to the limit in conveying sugar cane to the mills, also renders -transportation by rail rather uncertain. - -Despite the handicaps outlined above, operators of manganese mines are -striving to increase their output, and there is a strong interest taken -everywhere in Cuba in developing manganese prospects. If railway cars -and ships are provided for transporting the ore, food for the mine -laborers, and explosives for blasting, the outlook for a steadily -increasing production is good. The output for 1918 was estimated at -between 110,000 and 125,000 tons, more than 90% of which runs from 36% -to 45% manganese, the remainder being of a higher grade. The reserves -of manganese ore in the mines above referred to in Oriente Province are -estimated at from 700,000 to 800,000 tons, 85% of which is located in -the district northeast of Santiago. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM - - -The presence of bituminous products in Cuba has been a matter of record -since the days of the early Spanish conquerors. Sebastian Ocampo, that -adventurous follower of Columbus, in the year 1508 dropped into one of -the sheltered harbors of the north coast, not previously reported, in -order to make repairs on some of his battered caravels. Much to his -surprise and delight, while careening a boat to scrape the bottom some -of his men ran across a stream of soft asphalt or mineral pitch, oozing -from the shore near by. Nothing could have been more convenient for -Ocampo, and according to the early historians he made a very favorable -report on the advantages of Cuba for ship building. First she had well -protected harbors in plenty, with an abundance of cedar and sabicu from -which to cut planking; there were majagua, oak and other woods from -which to hew the timbers. Tall straight pines grew near the harbor of -Nipe that would do for masts. From the majagua bark and textile plants, -tough fibre could be obtained with which to make the rigging. Both iron -and copper were at hand for nails and bolts. All that was lacking seemed -to be the material for the sails, and even this could have been found -had he known where to look. - -So convenient did this harbor prove to the needs of Ocampo that he -called it Puerto Carenas, by which name it was known until 1519, when -the 50 odd citizens left by Velasco a few years before on the south -coast, where they had tried to found a city, moved up from the -Almandares to Puerto Carenas and straightway changed its name to the Bay -of Havana, by which it has since been known. - -The same little stream of semi-liquid asphalt can today be seen, issuing -from the rocky shore along the east side of the bay. This deposit was -mentioned by Oviedo in 1535, who referred also to other asphalt deposits -found along the north coast of what was then known as Puerto Principe. -These asphalt deposits, so close to the shore, were undoubtedly utilized -by the navigators of the 16th and following centuries in making repairs -to the numerous fleets that were kept busy plying between Spain and the -New World. - -Alexander Von Humboldt, who in the year 1800 came across from Venezuela -to Cuba to study the flora, fauna and natural resources of the Island, -mentioned what he called the petroleum wells of the Guanabacoa Ridge, -located not far from Havana, at a point once known as the mineral -springs of Santa Rita. Richard Cowling Taylor and Thomas C. Clemson, in -a book published in 1837, mentioned "the petroleum wells of Guanabacoa" -which had been known for three centuries and that were undoubtedly the -wells to which Baron Von Humboldt had previously referred. La Sagra, -too, in 1828, described petroleum fields located near Havana, and in -1829, Joaquin Navarro described several deposits of bituminous material -in a report which he made to the "Real Sociedad Patriotica." - -The bituminous deposits referred to by Taylor and Clemson proved to be a -solid form of asphalt. It was afterward used in large quantities as a -substitute for coal. They speak of finding crude petroleum also, filling -the cavities in masses of chalcedony, only a few yards distant from the -asphalt. The place referred to was afterwards ceded to the mining -companies of Huatey and San Carlos, located twelve miles from Havana, -where may still be seen the original wells. - -In a report on bituminous products of the Island by G. C. Moisant, -reference is made to a liquid asphalt or petroleum found in Madruga, a -small town southeast of Havana. This petroleum product, according to -recent investigations, flows from cavities in the serpentine rocks -found near Madruga and surrounding towns. - -An oil claim was registered in 1867 near Las Minas, 18 kilometers east -of Havana, as the result of oil indications in the cavities of rocks -that cropped out on the surface. A well was opened that yielded some oil -at a depth of 61 meters. This was sunk later to 129 meters but -afterwards abandoned. Within the last few years several wells have been -drilled in the vicinity of the old Santiago claim and have produced a -considerable amount of oil. - -The General Inspector of Mines, Pedro Salterain, in 1880 reported the -presence of liquid asphalt, or a low grade of crude petroleum, that -flowed from a serpentine dyke, cropping out on the old Tomasita -Plantation near Banes, on the north coast some twenty miles west of -Havana. The product was used for lighting the estate. All of the wells -of this province are located on lands designated by geologists as -belonging to the cretaceous period. This is true of those properties -where indications of petroleum are found near Sabanilla de la Palma and -La Guanillas, in the Province of Matanzas. - -During a century or more, hydrocarbon gases have issued from the soil in -a district east of Itabo, in the Province of Matanzas. In 1880, Manuel -Cueto had a well drilled on the Montembo Farm in this district. He -finally discovered at a depth of 95 meters a deposit of remarkably pure -naphtha which yielded about 25 gallons a day. It was a colorless, -transparent, liquid, very inflammable, and leaving no perceptible -residue after combustion. Cueto afterwards opened another well to a -depth of 248 meters and there discovered a deposit of naphtha that -produced 250 gallons per day. According to T. Wayland Vaughn of the -United States Geological Service such gases are plentiful in the -surrounding hills. - -In June, 1893, commercial agents of the United States Government -reported that petroleum had been found near Cardenas of a grade much -better than the crude oils imported from the United States. In -November, 1894, another commercial agent from Washington reported that -asphalt deposits near the city of Cardenas could produce from a thousand -to five thousand tons of this material a year. - -In 1901 Herbert R. Peckham, describing asphalt fields east and south of -Cardenas, mentions the drilling of a well by Lucas Alvarez, in search of -petroleum, which he found at a depth of 500 feet, and from which he -pumped 1000 gallons of petroleum, but this exhausted the supply of the -well. As a result of investigations made by Mr. Peckham, seepages of -crude oil and liquid asphalt of varying density may be found here over a -district measuring about 4,500 square miles. - -Near the city of Santa Clara there is a petroleum field known as the -Sandalina, samples of which were analyzed by H. M. Stokes in 1890, which -he reported to be quite similar to the crude petroleum of Russia. In the -neighborhood of Sagua and Caibarien, in the northern part of Santa Clara -Province, petroleum fields have recently been discovered, and others in -the southern part of the Province of Matanzas. - -Large deposits of asphalt, of varying grades and densities, have been -found at intervals along the north coast of the Province of Pinar del -Rio. From the harbor of Mariel a narrow gauge road has been built back -to mines some six miles distant, over which, up to the beginning of the -European War, asphalt was brought to the waterside and loaded directly -into sailing vessels, bound for the United States and Europe. Other -deposits have been found at La Esperanza and Cayo Jabos, a little -further west along the same coast, and in the estimation of some well -informed engineers this Pinar del Rio coast furnishes the most promising -field for petroleum prospecting of all in Cuba. - -As a result of the petroleum excitement, brought about by reports of -surface indications and of the success of the Union Oil Company's -drillings, many claims have been registered for both asphalt and -petroleum within recent years. Up to the last day of December, 1917, 215 -claims were filed in the Bureau of Mines, covering an area of about -25,000 acres. In the same time 88 claims, scattered throughout the -various Provinces, were registered for oil, comprising a total area of -about 40,000 acres. - -This scramble for oil lands has resulted in the formation of some fifty -different companies, most of which have issued large amounts of stock, -and many of which will properly come under the head of "wildcat" -adventures. This, however, has happened in other countries under similar -circumstances; notably in the United States. - -In the fall of 1918 some 15 companies were drilling for oil, most of -which yielded very little results. This was due in some instances to -inadequate machinery, and in others to inefficient workmen, together -with absolute lack of any definite knowledge of the district in which -they were working. In addition to this, nearly all of the wells drilled -have either found oil or stopped at a depth of 1000 feet. In only a few -instances have wells been sunk to a depth of 3000 feet, and most of -these were in a section where almost nothing was known of the geology of -the country. - -In Sabanilla de la Palma, the Cuban Oil and Mining Corporation drilled -to a depth of 1036 feet. On reaching the 120-foot level, they penetrated -a layer of asphalt four feet in thickness, and found petroleum in small -quantities at two other levels. At 1037 feet they met petroleum of a -higher grade, and are planning to sink the well to a depth of 4000 feet -with the idea of finding still richer deposits. - -About two kilometers west of Caimito de Guayabal, near the western -boundary of Havana Province, Shaler Williams has drilled several wells, -one to a depth of 1800 feet, which produced oil and gas, but in small -quantities. The gas has furnished him light and power on his farm for -several years. - -Since 1914 the Union Oil Company has been successfully exploiting the -Santiago claim near Bacuranao, some 12 miles east of Havana. During 1917 -and 1918, this company drilled ten wells with varying results. One of -these reached a depth of 700 feet, producing three or four barrels of -excellent petroleum per day, but was afterwards abandoned. Wells 2 and 3 -were abandoned at a depth of only a few hundred feet on account of -striking rock too difficult to penetrate. Well No. 4, at a depth of 560 -feet, produced oil at the rate of 10 to 15 barrels per day. No. 5 -yielded 400 barrels per day. No. 6 was abandoned at 1912 feet without -showing any oil. No. 7 yielded petroleum at 1000 feet, but only in small -quantities. No. 8, at 1009 feet, produces a good supply of oil. No. 9, -at the same depth, also produces oil, while No. 10, sunk to a depth of -1012 feet, produced a little oil at 272 and 1000 feet. These ten wells -have all been drilled in a restricted area measuring about 300 meters -each way. - -The crude petroleum of the Union Oil Company's wells is of a superior -quality, analysis showing 13% gasoline and 30% of illuminating oil. -Between December, 1916, and June, 1918, these wells produced 1,740,051 -gallons of crude. This oil is at present sold to the West Indian -Refining Company at the rate of 12 per gallon. - -Just north of the Union Oil Company's wells are what are known as the -Jorge Wells, where the Cuban Petroleum Company have been drilling for -oil since 1917. They sank one well to 840 feet, which at first produced -25 barrels a day, but afterwards dropped to two barrels a day, although -producing a great quantity of gas. Well No. 2 of this company, sunk to -111 feet, was abandoned. Well No. 3 produced 210 barrels the first day, -but afterwards dwindled to an average of 100 barrels a day. In the month -of June, 1918, 3,385 barrels of oil were produced, together with a large -amount of gas, that is consumed for fuel in the two furnaces of the -company. All of this petroleum is sold to the West Indian Refining -Company, of Havana. - -In another section of the Jorge Claim, the Republic Petroleum Company -drilled a well to a depth of 2,200 feet, finding petroleum at 995 feet. -East of the Santiago or Union Oil Company's wells, the Bacuranao Company -sank a well to a depth of 1009 feet, that produced 12 barrels per hour -during several days. This company delivers its oil to market over the -Union Oil Company's pipe lines. - -The wells drilled on the Union Oil Company's property, together with -those of the Jorge claim, are all grouped in an area that does not -exceed 20,000 square meters. Nearly all have produced petroleum at a -depth of approximately 1000 feet, most of them in small quantities; but -they may nevertheless be considered as producing on a commercial basis, -since their product sells at a good price. - -The oil wells of Cuba so far have not produced anything like the -enormous quantities that issue from the wells in the United States and -Mexico, but the results are encouraging, especially since the -explorations so far have been confined to a very moderate depth, seldom -exceeding 1500 feet. It is quite probable that wells in this section -will be ultimately drilled to a depth of at least 4,000 feet. - -Petroleum, as we know, is found in many different kinds of geological -formations. In Pennsylvania we meet crude oil in the Devonic and -carboniferous strata; in Canada in the Silurian; in the State of -Colorado in the cretaceous; in Virginia in the bituminous coal lands; in -South Carolina in the Triassic; in Venezuela it occurs in mica -formations; while in the Caucasus again it is in the cretaceous. No -fixed rule therefore can be said to designate or control the geological -formation that may yield oil. - -All of the petroleum found in Cuba, so far, seems to have its origin in -cretaceous formations, corresponding probably to the Secondary. A -somewhat significant fact is that petroleum in this Island seems to be -invariably associated with igneous rocks. So far all of it, or at least -all in wells worthy of consideration, seems to come from deposits that -lie along the lines of contact between the serpentines and various -strata of sedimentary rocks. Up to the present, wells that have been -drilled in sedimentary strata, at any considerable distance from the -intrusion of serpentine rocks, have produced no results. - -E. de Goyler has reached the conclusion that the oils found below the -serpentine, or at points of contact between serpentine and sedimentary -rocks, had their origin in Jurassic limestone. Rocks of this period form -a large part of the Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio, and the above -quoted authority is confident that the asphalt and petroleum fields -found in the immediate vicinity of serpentine thrusts during volcanic -action are all filtrations from deposits far below the surface. This -view seems to agree with results of observation made in the neighborhood -of the Bacuranao oil fields, where the drills have usually penetrated a -considerable depth of serpentine rock before meeting the -petroleum-bearing strata of sand and limestone. - -Frederick C. Clapp, in his study of the structural classification of -fields of petroleum and natural gas, read before the Geological Society -of America, stated that in Cuba there are undoubtedly deposits which he -designates as coming from a subdivision of sedimentary strata, with -masses of lacolites, an unusual form of deposit, met in the Furbero -Petroleum fields of Mexico, where oil bearing strata lie both above and -below the lacolite. - -The consensus of opinion among experts who have examined the recent -explorations in the neighborhood of Bacuranao seems to be that in spite -of the fact that no oil well in Cuba, up to the present, has produced -large quantities of petroleum, there is excellent reason for believing -that wells drilled to a depth of three or four thousand feet, in zones -that have been carefully studied by competent geologists, may yet rival -in amount of production those of the best petroleum fields in other -parts of the world. - -The deposits of asphalt in Cuba, in view of the extensive road building -planned for this Republic, have an undoubted present and future value -well worthy of consideration. Asphalt of excellent quality, and of -grades varying all the way from a remarkably pure, clean liquid form, up -through all degrees of consistency to the hard, dry, vitreous deposits -that resemble bituminous coal sufficiently to furnish an excellent fuel, -is found in Cuba in large quantities. Most of it is easily accessible, -and of grades that command very good prices for commercial purposes in -the world's markets. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -FORESTRY - - -The virgin forests of Cuba, at the time of the Spanish conquest, were -rich in hardwoods, such as mahogany, cedar, rosewood, ebony, lignum-vit -and many others unknown in the markets of the United States. During four -centuries these forests have been one of Cuba's most important assets. -Unfortunately this source of wealth has been drawn upon without -forethought or discrimination since the first white settlers began to -use the products of the forest in 1515. - -The completion of the North Shore Railroad of Camaguey, extending from -Caibarien to Nuevitas, will soon open up the great hardwood forests of -the Sierra de Cubitas and add greatly to the wealth of that district. - -There are 367 varieties of valuable forest trees, described with more or -less detail in the Bureau of Forestry connected with the Department of -Agriculture of Cuba. More than half of these are susceptible of taking a -high polish, and would if known undoubtedly command remunerative prices -in the hardwood markets of the world. At the present time, two only, -cedar and mahogany, are sought and quoted in the commercial centers of -the United States. - -While we find in Cuba few forest trees common to the United States, -nearly all of the standard woods, such as oak, hickory, ash, maple, -beech and walnut, seem to have their equivalents, from the viewpoint of -utility at least, in the native woods of this Island. For purposes of -manufacture, carriage making, naval uses, house building, cabinet work -and fine carving, or general construction, Cuba has many woods of -unsurpassed merit and often of rare beauty. - -The following list contains 60 of the most useful woods found in the -forests of Cuba. Nearly all of these take a very high polish and are -valuable in the arts as well as for construction purposes. Not more than -a half dozen, unfortunately, are known to the hardwood trade, even by -name, and since most of these names are purely local, they would mean -little to the dealers outside of the Island of Cuba, where most of them -are in daily use; - - ACANA: indigenous to Cuba; grows to height of 50 feet with diameter - of two feet; hard, compact, deep wine color; used in general - construction work, and is especially valuable for making - carpenters' planes and tools. Wears indefinitely. Sp. Gr. 1.28. - - ACEITILLO: indigenous; grows to height of 30 feet; common - throughout the Island; strong and tough; light yellow color; used - for general construction. Sp. Gr. 1.04. - - AITE: indigenous; grows to height of 25 feet; diameter 2 feet; of - common occurrence; strong and compact; light brown color; used in - cabinet work. Sp. Gr. 1.07. - - AYUA BLANCO: indigenous; 55 feet in height; 2 feet in diameter; - found in Pinar del Rio and Isle of Pines; soft; white in color; - used for boxes, beehives, cross beams; produces a gum used in - medicine. Sp. Gr. 0.72. - - ALMACIGO COLORADO: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 2 feet in - diameter; found everywhere; soft; reddish color, used for fence - posts and charcoal; has medicinal properties and produces resin. - Sp. Gr. 0.38. - - AMIQUA: indigenous; 40 feet in height; 7 feet diameter; hard, - compact, reddish in color; found in light soils; used for joists - and beams, and for wagons. Sp. Gr. 1.16. - - ALGARROBO: indigenous; 75 feet in height, diameter 4-1/2 feet; - strong; yellowish color; found in deep soils; used for building - purposes; yields a varnish and has medicinal properties. Sp. Gr. - 0.64. - - ATEJA MACHO: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 3 feet in diameter; - found throughout Island, also in Isle of Pines; flexible and hard; - grey in color; used in general construction and ship building; Sp. - Gr. 0.87. - - ATEJA HEMBRA: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 3 feet diameter; found - in Pinar del Rio; hard, compact and heavy grained; yellow in color; - found in deep soils; used for general carpenter work. Sp. Gr. 0.62. - - AGUACATILLO: indigenous; 55 feet in height; found all over Island, - including Isle of Pines; soft and light; light green color; found - in black lands; general carpenter work; Sp. Gr. 1.14. - - ARABO: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast; fibrous, - compact and strong; reddish brown color; used for poles and general - carpenter work; bears fruit eaten by cattle; takes beautiful - polish; Sp. Gr. 1.52. - - ABRAN DE COSTA: indigenous; found Pinar del Rio; strong, compact; - mahogany color; cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 0.97. - - BAGA: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast and on river - banks; very light in weight; greyish brown in color; used for fish - net floats; bears fruit eaten by cattle; Sp. Gr. 0.6. - - BARIA: indigenous; 50 feet in height; found all over Island, in - deep soil; easily worked, dark brown color; used in general - carpenter work; flowers produce feed for bees; takes a fine polish; - Sp. Gr. 0.78. - - BRAZILETE COLORADO: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast, - also in the savannas; excellent wood; reddish brown; used for - turning purposes and inlaid work; takes high polish; produces a - dye; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - BAYITO: indigenous; 30 feet in height; found in Pinar del Rio; hard - and compact; variegated brown color; used for frames, posts, etc.; - takes high polish. Sp. Gr. 1.25. - - CAGUAIRAN or QUIEBRA HACHA: indigenous; 45 feet height, 3 feet - diameter; found in Oriente; resists rot; compact, heavy and hard; - reddish brown color; used for beams, channel posts, etc. Sp. Gr. - 1.44. - - CANA FISTOLA CIMARRONA: indigenous; 45 feet in height, scattered - over Island; beautiful, strong and resistant wood; reddish in - color; adapted for tool handles. Sp. Gr. 0.87. - - CAIMITILLO: indigenous; 35 feet height; found all over Island; - hard, tough wood; used in carriage manufacture; bears fruit; Sp. - Gr. 1.1. - - CAREY DE COSTA: indigenous small tree, found on coasts and - savannas; heavy and brittle; dark tortoise shell color; takes - beautiful polish; used for cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.04. - - CERILLO: indigenous; 35 feet in height; diameter 18 inches; found - in western end of Island; excellent wood; yellow in color; used for - cabinet work; takes fine polish; Sp. Gr. 0.56. - - CARNE DE DONCELLA: indigenous; 50 feet height; 18 inches diameter; - common in forests; compact, tough and hard; rose color; grown in - rich lands; used for table tops and carriage work. Sp. Gr. 0.92. - - CHICHARRON AMARILLO: indigenous; 36 feet in height; 18 inches in - diameter; common in forests; strong, elastic and durable; dark - yellow color; used for posts, sleepers, channel stakes, etc. Sp. - Gr. 0.96. - - CHICHARRON PRIETO: indigenous; 36 feet height; 18 inches diameter; - strong solid wood; brown color; used in carriage work. - - CAOBA or MAHOGANY: five varieties of this tree; indigenous; 36 feet - in height, from six to twelve feet in diameter; grows all over the - Island; excellent and durable wood; color mahogany or dark red; - used for fine carpenter work and furniture; Sp. Gr. 1.45. - - CEDRO or CEDAR: four varieties; indigenous; 60 to 75 feet in - height; 6 feet in diameter; found all over Island; soft and easily - worked; light mahogany color; used in fine carpenter work; cabinet - work; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - CUYA O CAROLINA: three varieties; indigenous; very hard and - compact; light wine color; used for uprights, beams and - construction work. Sp. Gr. 1.02. - - DAGAME: indigenous; 40 to 45 feet in height; 18 inches in diameter; - grows on hilly land; strong and compact; yellowish grey color; used - for carpentry and carriage work; Sp. Gr. 0.74. - - ROYAL EBONY: indigenous; 34 feet in height; found on coast lands; - good wood; black in color; used for canes; inlaid work; familiar in - United States for fine cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.17. - - ESPUELA DE CABALLERO: indigenous; small tree, found all over - Island; excellent wood; yellow to red in color; used for fancy - canes, turning and inlaid work; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - FUSTETE: indigenous; 36 feet in height; found in dense forests or - Oriente and Camaguey; dark wine color; used for carpenter and - carriage work; is yellow dye wood; Sp. Gr. 1.32. - - GRANADILLIA: indigenous; 20 to 25 feet in height; small diameter; - hard, compact and tough; mottled brown and bright yellow in color; - used for fine inlaid work and canes; Sp. Gr. 0.89. - - GUAMA DE COSTUS: indigenous; 25 to 35 feet in height; hard, tough - and compact; light cinnamon color; used in construction work and - for ox-yokes and plows; Sp. Gr. 0.68. - - GUAYABO COTORRERO: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; small - diameter; all over Island; ductile, chrome yellow color; used for - cabinet work; tool handles; Sp. Gr. 0.92. - - GUARACAN PRIETO or Lignum Vitae: indigenous; 55 to 60 feet in - height; comparatively slender; found on coast; durable and compact; - dark brown mottled with yellow; used for turning, banisters, - croquet balls, and shaft bearings; Sp. Gr. 1.17. - - GUAYACAN BLANCO: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; slender, - strong and compact; light yellow color; grows on black lands; - especially useful for carriage and wagon spokes; Sp. Gr. 0.79. - - HUMUS: indigenous; hard compact and tough; blood red in color; - fine carpentry and cabinet work; furnishes a dye; Sp. Gr. 0.84. - - JIQUI: indigenous; 50 to 60 feet in height; 3 feet diameter; - strong, hard, durable, dark brown in color; found in all soils; - used for supports, posts, channel stakes and stakes for boundary - lines; never rots in swamp land; makes good charcoal. - - JUCARO PRIETO: two varieties; indigenous; 60 to 75 feet in height; - four feet in diameter; all over Island; very strong; impervious to - rot in swampy and bad lands; used for wagon and carpenter work; - especially adapted for pilings. - - JUCARO AMARILLO: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; slender; all - over the Island; strong and compact, yellow color, especially - adapted for posts and wagon axles; Sp. Gr. 1.13. - - JACARANDA: indigenous; 45 to 55 feet in height; strong, tough and - resistant; yellowish grey; carpenter and furniture work; Sp. Gr. - 0.89. - - JAGUA: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; 18 inches in diameter; - found all over Island; strong, elastic and durable; yellow in - color; adapted for carriage work, moulds, lances, etc. - - JATIA: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; 16 inches in diameter; - found in eastern end of Island; strong, hard and compact; dark - yellow; used in cabinet work and canes; Sp. Gr. 0.94. - - JAYAJABICO: indigenous; small tree, found in Pinar del Rio; hard, - tough and compact; light chestnut color; used in carriage work, - cabinet work, canes, etc.; Sp. Gr. 1.12. - - LEBRISA: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; eastern end of the - Island; strong and resistant; yellowish color; adapted for axles, - tillers, and general carpenter work; Sp. Gr. 1.00. - - MAJUGUA MACHO: indigenous; three varieties; 45 to 50 feet in - height; 3 feet in diameter; found all over Island; very resilient - and flexible; mouse color; variegated with black and cream - splashes used in fine cabinet and furniture work; also fine for - carriage work, knees and arches. From the inner bark natives braid - a strong picket rope in a few minutes; Sp. Gr. 0.59. - - MABOA: indigenous; 30 to 45 feet in height; 2 feet in diameter; - found in all forests; strong and compact, ash color; used for - beams, posts and also for cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.3. - - MANZANILLO: indigenous; 20 to 25 feet in height; 3 feet in - diameter; found on coast; good wood; yellowish grey color; found in - the low lands; used for furniture and fine cabinet work; Sp. Gr. - 0.7. - - MAMONCILLO: indigenous; 55 to 60 feet in height; 3 feet in - diameter; found all over the Island; hard and compact; light - mahogany color; yields an edible plum; used in cabinet work; Sp. - Gr. 0.85. - - MORAL NEGRO: found all over the Island, strong and solid; dark - chestnut color; used in fine carpentry and cabinet work; Sp. Gr. - 0.75. - - MORUO: indigenous; 50 to 60 feet in height; found in all forests; - good wood; wine colored; used for general carpentry and carriage - work; takes a high polish; Sp. Gr. 1.06. - - OCUJE: indigenous; 45 to 50 feet in height; strong, tough and - resistant; red color; used in carriage work and channel stakes; Sp. - Gr. 0.77. - - PALO DE LANZA: (lance wood) indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; - very resilient and flexible; light yellow color; used for yard - sticks, tool handles, light strong poles and wood springs; Sp. Gr. - 0.84. - - PALO CAMPECHE: (log wood) indigenous; 25 to 35 feet in height; - found in deep forests; hard, heavy and compact; deep purple color; - used for turning and produces log wood dye; Sp. Gr. 0.9. - - ROBLE: five varieties; indigenous; 40 to 45 feet in height; good - wood, general carpenter work and shelving; Sp. Gr. 0.73. - - SABINA: indigenous; found in eastern end of Island; hard beautiful - wood, mottled chocolate color; furniture and general construction; - Sp. Gr. 0.65. - - SABICU: indigenous; very large tree, sometimes called imitation - mahogany; hard, tough and compact; mahogany color; used for rail - chalks, port holes of ships, wagons, etc. - - TAGUA: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; hard, compact and - durable; used for fine cabinet work and musical instruments; Sp. - Gr. 0.7. - - YABA: indigenous; 45 feet in height; abundant, strong and compact; - reddish color; used for wagon work, general construction and - turning; Sp. Gr. 0.88. - - TANA: indigenous; very hard, inflexible; grows in damp and sandy - soils; specially adapted for naval construction; Sp. Gr. 1.02. - - YAMAGUA: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; 20 inches in - diameter; excellent wood; reddish yellow; used in general - construction work; Spec. Gr. 0.7. - -Specimens of all these woods, together with some three hundred others, -form a collection that may be seen at any time at the Government -Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. - -Scattered throughout the broad grass covered savannas that lie along -some parts of the coast of Cuba, are found heavily wooded clumps of -forest trees, that stand up out of the grassy plains like islands, and -give rather a peculiar effect to the landscape. In these "Cayos de -Monte," as they are called, are found nearly all of the small, hard and -durable woods of Cuba, such as Ebony, Lignum Vitae or Guayacan, -Grenadillo and others of similar character, that seldom make tall trees, -but that frequently have a value in the markets of the world that cause -them to be sold by the pound or hundredweight, instead of by board -measure. - -The great bulk of timber lands, or virgin forests of Cuba, are scattered -throughout the mountainous districts of the Island, mostly in Santa -Clara and Oriente, and belong to non-resident owners living in Spain. -While the timber is very valuable, the cost of cutting and getting out -the logs with the help of oxen, precludes any possibility of profit and -will insure their remaining untouched until less expensive methods are -found for their removal to the coast. The price of these lands vary at -the present time from $3 to $15 per acre, and they can be purchased only -in large tracts. - -In passing it may be mentioned that many of the forest lands of the -mountainous districts are located within the mineral zones of the -Island, but the purchase of the property does not carry with it a right -to the ore deposits that may lie below the surface. These can be -acquired only through registering mineral claims or "denouncements" in -accordance with the laws of the Republic. - -Along the southern coast of Cuba, bordering on the Caribbean, especially -in the Province of Camaguey, are still large areas of virgin forests -growing on low, flat lands. Some of these are traversed by streams, down -which the logs are rafted during the rainy season. - -Quite a large area of forest is still retained by the Government. The -sale of these lands is forbidden by law, although under certain -conditions they may be rented to private parties. Some of them have been -distributed among the veterans of the War of Independence. - -The total amount of forest still retained by the Republic is estimated -at 37,000 caballeries or 1,226,450 acres, of which 519,144 acres are -located in the Province of Oriente; 307,910 in Santa Clara; 148,200 in -Pinar del Rio; 113,620 in Matanzas; 88,130 in Camaguey and 49,400 in the -Province of Havana. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -AGRICULTURE - - -The Island of Cuba is essentially an agricultural country. Its fertile -soils have come from the constant erosion of rocks by heavy rains, -through eons of time. Mountain torrents have brought down the debris of -crumbling mountains of feldspar, shale and limestone to be deposited on -the plains below, while rushing streams have eaten their way into the -plateaus of Pinar del Rio and Oriente, until we have at last a -marvellously rich, tropical island garden, supplied by Nature with all -the ingredients needed to maintain its fertility for many centuries to -come. - -More important perhaps than fertility of soil, is the fact that Cuba -lies just within the edge of the Tropics, securing thereby an immunity -from snow, cold wind and frost. This enables her to grow many crops that -otherwise would be barred. More than all, those vegetables that in the -United States and more northern climes thrive during only a few months -of summer, may be grown in Cuba at almost any time in the year. - -On the other hand it is true that many of the great grain crops, such as -wheat, rye, oats and barley, cannot be successfully grown in Cuba, or at -least on only a few of the more elevated plateaus of Santa Clara and -Oriente. But, even were it possible to grow wheat in Cuba, it is more -profitable to buy grain from districts further north, giving in exchange -sugar, tobacco, henequen, coffee, cacao, hides, honey, citrus fruits and -winter vegetables. - -[Illustration: NATIONAL THEATRE, CENTRAL PARK, HAVANA - -The builders of the city of Havana through more than four centuries paid -commendable attention to the right placing of important buildings, not -only for convenience but also for picturesque and artistic effect. Thus -the National Theatre, one of the most commodious and beautiful -playhouses in the world, has for its setting the equally beautiful -Central Park, and is approached by the famous thoroughfare of the Prado. -Other notable public and private buildings are suitably grouped about -it, making a civic centre of rarely impressive appearance.] - -Freedom from frost means much to the agriculturist, since it relieves -him from the anxiety suffered by the farmers of Florida and the Gulf -States, that although lying on the other side of the Tropic of -Cancer, and enjoying sufficient warmth to produce vegetables during the -winter months, are nevertheless exposed to the danger of absolute ruin, -or at least the loss of a year's work. - -[Illustration: CUBAN RURAL HOME] - -That, however, which favors successful agriculture in Cuba more than -anything else, is the fact that her copious rainfall begins in May, and -continuing throughout the warm months of summer terminates in the latter -part of October, leaving the winter cool and dry, so that fall crops may -ripen and be gathered free from danger of the cold, rainy days of -December so common in the Gulf States. - -In stock raising, also, not only is the Island supplied with an -abundance of nutritious grass, on which animals may graze throughout the -year, but the young are never subjected to loss from the cold winds, -sleets, and driving storms, that decimate the herds of less favored -countries in the North. - -Cuba undoubtedly has some agricultural drawbacks and disadvantages, but -few that may not be successfully overcome with intelligent management -and the judicious care which renders stock raising profitable in any -country. The one great advantage of the Republic lies in the fact that -the farmer, if he so desires, can put in three hundred and sixty five -days of every year at profitable work in his fields, orchards or -pastures, with no time necessarily lost. Nor is he compelled to work -half the year to provide food and fuel sufficient to feed and keep warm -during the remaining six months of comparative idleness. - -Owing to the exceptional natural facilities for producing sugar and -tobacco cheaply and easily, the farmers of Cuba largely become, in one -sense of the word, "specialists," and little by little have fallen into -the habit of producing enormous crops of these two staples that are sold -abroad, while food crops are imported at an expense far above that which -it would cost to produce them in the Island. This neglect of food and -forage crops would seem to render Cuba an ideal place for the general -farmer and stock raiser, and the Department of Agriculture, under the -direction of General E. Sanchez Agramonte, is now making every effort to -place the advantages of the country for diversified farming before the -outside world, so that practical farmers and families from agricultural -districts abroad may be induced to come to Cuba and settle permanently. - -The Republic ultimately will raise her own live stock and should produce -sufficient corn, rice, beans, peanuts and perhaps wheat to be, to a -large extent at least, independent of the outside world. With this -purpose in view the Department of Agriculture has encouraged immigration -and through the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas is making -greater efforts than ever before to ascertain just what crops and what -seeds or plants are best adapted to the soil and climate of Cuba. - -This information is being gathered and carefully digested so that it may -be given to the homeseekers and settlers of which the country stands in -such urgent need. At the request of the Secretary of Agriculture, Dr. -Calvino, chief of the Government Station, together with his staff, is -searching for and bringing from all parts of the globe every plant and -every variety of animal that can be utilized for food purposes. - -Nearly every variety of wheat, corn, sorghum, rice, potatoes, grains and -tubers, is being tested and tried on the 160 acres of land belonging to -the station. Grapes, peaches, plums and other semi-tropical fruits are -being planted, experimented with and carefully watched for results, -while forage plants and grasses from South America, Africa, Australia, -India, China, Europe and the United States are being tried, each under -conditions approaching as nearly as possible those of its original -habitat. - -Although Cuba with its adjacent islands has an area of only about 45,000 -square miles--approximating the area of the State of Mississippi--one -finds many varieties of soil, the characteristics of which, even when -lying contiguous, are so varied as to be astounding. High and -comparatively dry plateaus, in places, rise almost abruptly from low -level savannas that remain moist in the driest seasons of the year. Rich -deep soiled mountain sides and valleys may be found within a few miles -of pine barrens, whose hillsides are valued only for the mineral wealth -that may lie beneath the surface. - -Great areas of rich virgin forest, in both mountain and plain, still -exist, especially in the eastern half of the Island, where many -thousands of acres in the open, if planted with suitable grasses, would -support countless herds of cattle and live stock. To bring all of this -territory as soon as possible into a state of profitable cultivation, -and thus supply permanent homes for farmers and stock raisers, is the -great aim and purpose of the Department of Agriculture in Cuba today, -and to the consummation of these plans Secretary Agramonte is devoted, -with a most able and energetic Assistant Secretary in Dr. Carlos -Armenteros. - -The great pressing problems of agriculture in the Republic would seem to -be quite sufficient for any one man's energies, but, as the present -government was planned and organized, an enormous amount of additional -work, including the supervision of mines, forests, weights, measures, -bank inspection, commerce and labor, come under its jurisdiction, -rendering the responsibilities of the Department heavier and more -complicated than any other branch of the Government, and demanding a -degree of persistence and versatility probably not called for on the -part of any other Cabinet Officer. - -The Department of Agriculture has a personnel of 640 while approximately -a million and a half dollars are appropriated by the Budget for carrying -on the work of the Department. For convenience of administration the -Department is divided into the following sections: - - Agriculture, - Veterinary Inspection and Zoology, - Commerce and Industry, - Immigration, Colonization and Labor, - Forests and Mines, - Patents and Trade Marks. - -In addition to these are several Bureaus, stations and offices that -report directly to the Assistant Secretary. - -The Section of Agriculture, naturally, is the largest and most -comprehensive of the various divisions or branches of the Department. -Under its direction are the six various "granjas" or Agricultural -Schools that are maintained, one in each Province. The distribution of -seeds and the awarding of agricultural prizes come under its direction, -as so also the inspection of fish, turtling and sponging, and the -registration of domestic animals, including horses, mules and cattle. - -It has also charge of all agricultural fairs and exhibitions, either -foreign or domestic. The purpose of the "Granjas" or agricultural -schools is to educate the children of the rural districts along those -lines which will tend to make them practical farmers and useful -citizens of the community. Pupils are admitted at the age of fourteen -and are given tuition, board, lodging and clothes at the expense of the -Government. - -An excellently equipped laboratory for the analysis of soils, -fertilizer, or other material pertaining to agricultural industries, is -maintained by the Division of Agriculture, and forms one of the most -useful branches of the Department. - -The Division of Commerce and Industry is entrusted with the inspection -of nearly everything pertaining to the commerce and industry of the -country. One very important branch is that of the inspection of banks, -tobacco factories, sugar plantations and mills, and general industries -of the Island. A Bureau of Statistics is also attached to this Division. - -The Division of Veterinary Science and Animal Industry, is entrusted -with the development of animal industry throughout the Island, and with -the duty of protecting, as far as possible, livestock of all kinds from -disease, either foreign or domestic. A laboratory, thoroughly equipped, -is maintained as an auxiliary of this Division, enabling the Director to -determine the nature of any given disease and to provide means and -material for combating it. - -Under the direction of the same Section are six poultry stations, one in -each Province, where experiments are conducted with reference to poultry -raising and to the cure of infectious diseases that may afflict. Three -breeding stations, too, dependent on this Bureau, have been established -in the eastern, central and western districts. - -The Division of Forests and Mines, owing to the incalculable wealth of -Cuba's mines of iron, copper, manganese, chrome, etc., and to the -immense value of her virgin forests of hard woods, scattered throughout -the mountainous districts of the interior is of special importance. -Forest inspectors are maintained whose duty is to see that timber is not -cut without authorization from either government or private lands, or -surreptitiously smuggled away from the coast. The enormous acreage, -too, of the red and yellow mangrove, remarkably rich in tannin, that -encircles nearly all the islands bordering on the interior lagoons, and -the making of charcoal carried on in these districts, are supervised by -the forest inspectors. - -Every mineral claim located in the Republic must be reported to the -Director of Mines in charge of this Division, where it is registered in -books kept for the purpose in the name of the individual petitioning, -with the date and hour of record, together with the dimensions or -boundaries of said claim carefully indicated. With this registration a -payment of $2 for each hectare of land is made and receipted for, which -entitles the owner, after said claim has been surveyed by the engineers -pertaining to the Division of Mines, to the sole privilege of working -the claim, or taking either mineral asphalt or oil from beneath the -surface. - -In the Division of Trade Marks and Patents, one of the most important in -the Department, patents and trade-marks are granted for a nominal sum to -both citizens and foreigners. Companies that have secured patents in -foreign countries, after producing evidence to that effect, may -duplicate or extend their patents in this office, and trade-marks that -have been established in other countries may be registered in Cuba on -proper application. Patents for books and publications are also handled -in this Division. - -The Department of Meteorology is responsible for all astronomical and -meteorological observations, and for the publication of data in regard -thereto. The Weather Bureau and all observatories come under its -jurisdiction, together with the publication of official time. It is -responsible for the collection of all data concerning weather and -climate that may affect crops, which data is published weekly, monthly -and annually. - -Under the Division of Immigration, Colonization and Labor matters -pertaining to subjects connected with immigration, wages, hours and -working condition of laborers and their connection with capital or -employers, are handled and adjusted. During the year 1918, this Bureau -amicably settled eighteen labor disputes, thus avoiding threatened -strikes. Records of all accidents to labor are kept on file. - -Every immigrant entering the Island of Cuba from any country must be -provided with $30 in cash before being released from Triscornia, the -receiving station on the Bay of Havana. From this station immigrants -without means are looked after by the Division of Immigration, and the -company or person, who, desiring his services, takes him out, is -required to give a bond that he will not become a public charge. This -Department also issues permits to sugar estates, corporations or -companies who wish to import labor on a large scale. - -Under the direction of this Division, the Government has started a -colony for laborers at Pogolotti, a suburb of Havana, where 950 houses -have been built, each with a parlor, two bedrooms, a bath, kitchen and a -yard. They are rented to laborers only, at a monthly rental of $3.12. Of -this $2.71 is applied to the credit of the renter towards the purchase -of the house, the remainder going for expenses of administration and -water. The purchase price is fixed at $650, and when this has been paid -the laborer becomes the owner. - -In addition to the above mentioned Divisions or Sections there are -several independent Bureaus or offices, reporting directly to the -Sub-Secretary and acting under his instructions. Among these is the -Bureau of Game and Bird Protection, organized to enforce the law -regulating the open and closed seasons for hunting deer, and the various -game birds, ducks, pigeons, quail, etc., that abound in Cuba. The work -of this Bureau is conducted along lines and methods similar to those -employed in the United States. The duties of the Director of this most -worthy Institution are onerous and unending and to his indefatigable -energy is due the saving of thousands of valuable birds and animals. - -A Bureau known as the Bureau of Publications and Exchanges is charged -with the publication in Spanish of an Agricultural Review, intended for -the enlightenment of the agriculturists of the Island. In this monthly -are printed the reports of the many experiments and important work -carried on at the Government's Experimental Station at Santiago de las -Vegas, and other matters pertaining to Agricultural industries. - -It is the desire of the Government of Cuba to encourage immigration, and -to invite especially agriculturists and farmers from all countries, and -to use every legitimate means of inducing the better class of immigrants -to make permanent homes in the agricultural districts of the Island. But -in order to guard against misleading information, and possible failure -on the part of settlers from foreign countries in Cuba, one of the main -objects of the Bureau of Information of the Department of Agriculture is -not only to promulgate the exact truth, as far as possible, in regard to -conditions, but also to protect the homeseeker against the machinations -of irresponsible real estate agents, and the disappointment that would -result from the purchase or cultivation of lands that could not give -satisfactory returns. - -The Government wants every homeseeker or investor of capital in Cuba to -make a success of his undertaking, since only success redounds to the -credit and reputation of the Republic. Hence every effort is being made -to advise prospective settlers and investors, in regard to any -legitimate undertaking that may be contemplated. This advice is -invariably gratis and correspondents are requested not to enclose stamps -for replies to their communications, since these are official and do not -require postage. Personal interviews are invited at all times under the -same conditions. - -During the first Government of Intervention, under the direction of -General Leonard Wood, an agricultural experimental station was -inaugurated on the outskirts of the little town of Santiago de las -Vegas, some ten miles from the City of Havana. One hundred and sixty-six -acres were purchased for the use of the station and Mr. Earle, formerly -connected with the Department of Agriculture in Washington, was -installed as Director. - -The grounds were well located, with a fine automobile drive passing -along its eastern boundary and the Havana Central Railroad close by on -the west. A large quadrangular edifice occupied by Spanish military -forces, was transformed into the main building of the station. Other -houses for the protection of stock, machinery, etc., were soon added, -while resident homes were built for the officers of the station. - -An abundant source of good water was found at a depth of one hundred -feet and large steel tanks were erected so irrigation could be utilized -where needed. - -Choice fruit and shade trees were brought, not only from the different -provinces of Cuba, but also from other parts of the tropical world and -planted for experimental purposes. Of the latter the Australian -eucalyptus has made a wonderful growth. - -A splendid staff of botanists, horticulturists, bacteriologists and men -versed in animal industry were installed to assist the Director. -Considerable valuable pioneer work was done by these men and much useful -knowledge was imparted to the farmers of Cuba. - -With the installation of the Cuban Republic, several changes were made -in the Direction of the Station, but the routine work was carried on -with a fair degree of success. To bring about radical reforms among the -older agriculturists, who for many years have been addicted to the -antiquated methods of their forefathers, is not an easy task in any -country. To separate the administration of the Agricultural Station of -Cuba from the bane of politics was still more difficult. - -With the inauguration of General Menocal's second term in office, -several changes were made, the result of which have been both marked and -beneficial. General Eugenio Sanchez Agramonte, former President of the -Senate and an ardent lover of everything connected with farm life, was -appointed Secretary of Agriculture, while Doctor Carlos Armenteros, an -enthusiastic and indefatigable worker, was made Assistant Secretary. - -General Agramonte, realizing all that a well conducted experimental -station meant to the agricultural interests of the country, after -careful search and examination into credentials, selected Dr. Mario -Calvano, an Italian by birth, but cosmopolitan in education and -experience, for the new Director of the Station, while larger credits -and a greater number of assistants were placed at his disposal. - -The result was to a high degree both beneficial and satisfactory. The -main building was renovated and, as the Director said, "made possible," -from floor to ceiling. The southwestern part of the edifice was turned -over to the Department of Woods, Textile Plants and Allied Studies, and -here may be found, labeled and artistically arranged, most of the -indigenous woods of the forests of Cuba, both in the natural state and -highly polished. Samples of every textile plant known to the Island, of -which there are many, hang from the wall, showing the plant as it was -taken from the fields, and how it looks after being decorticated. - -Leaving this section one steps down into a small garden, covering not -over a quarter of an acre, in which may be found growing specimens of -valuable and interesting plants and trees that have been gathered from -Cuba and from other parts of the world so that their adaptability to -this soil and climate may be studied. - -The entire northern side of the building is given over to Animal -Industry and to Bacteriology, where experiments of vital importance to -animal life are conducted under the direction of experts. Not long ago -men were brought from the Bureau of Animal Industry in Washington to -assist the Station to establish a plant for the manufacture of the serum -that has proven so efficacious in protecting hogs from the cholera or -pintadilla, as it is known in Cuba. Considerable space is given over to -the raising of guinea pigs, for use in experiments in making cultures of -the germs that produce anthrax and other diseases that might endanger -the herds of the Island. - -Many splendid specimens of live stock, at the order of the Secretary, -have been purchased in the United States and other parts of the world -and brought to the station for breeding purposes. Some twenty odd -magnificent stallions, most of them riding animals and cavalry remounts, -were secured in Kentucky and other states during the spring of 1918 and -brought to the station, where they have been divided among branch -stations located in the other provinces of the Island. - -Excellent specimens of cattle also, including the Jersey, the Holstein, -the Durham and Cebu or sacred cattle of India, have been purchased -abroad and brought to the Station and then installed in splendid -quarters, built of reinforced concrete for their accommodation. The Cebu -has been crossed in Cuba with the native cattle for some years past with -very satisfactory results. Doctor Calvino states that a two-year old -steer, resulting from the cross between a Cebu and a native cow, will -weigh quite as much as would the ordinary three-year old of straight -breeding. - -Many specimens of thoroughbred hogs, including the Duroc, the Poland -China, the Berkshire and the Tamworth, have been brought to the station, -where they and their progeny seem to thrive even better than in the -countries where the breed originated. Angora goats, too, that came from -the Northwest, from Texas, and the mountains of Georgia, have given very -satisfactory results in Cuba. - -Several thousand chickens, including the Rhode Island Red, the Plymouth -Rock, the Orpington, Minorcan and several varieties of Leghorns, were -imported from the United States and brought to the Station, where they -seem to be doing very well. - -Under the direction of Doctor Calvino, nearly every acre of the Station -has been devoted to some useful purpose. The grounds on either side of -the main driveway are instructive and interesting. As the winter visitor -passes down the long lane, he will find various tracts under -comparatively intensive cultivation, planted in nearly all the -vegetables common to the United States in addition to those found in -Cuba. Among others are tomatoes, egg plants, green peppers, okra, beans, -peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, peanuts, cabbage, beets, malanga, yucca, -name, acelgas and chayete. Each variety is carefully labelled, with time -of planting and other data necessary for complete reports on results -obtained. - -Other sections are given over to fruits, and nut bearing trees, those -indigenous to Cuba and those brought from other countries. Among the -indigenous fruits we have the beautiful mango, the agucate, the -guanabana, the marmoncillo, the mamey, colorado and amarillo, the anon, -the nispero or zapote, the caimito, the tamarind, the ciruela, and all -varieties of the citrus family. - -Large beautiful groves of oranges, limes, lemons and grape fruit in full -bearing, form a very interesting part of the station's exhibit. Some -sixteen varieties of the banana, the most productive source of -nourishing food of all the vegetable kingdom, may be studied here under -favorable conditions. - -Several acres have been given over to seed beds and nursery stock, which -in a short time will supply valuable plants of many kinds to other parts -of the Island. A section has been devoted to the cultivation of various -textile plants, including the East Indian jute, the ramie, common flax, -and the malva blanca of Cuba. - -The large patio that occupies the center of the main building is adorned -not only with many beautiful flowers common to this latitude, but also -with quite a number of ornamental palms not common to Cuba, or at least, -not to the Province of Havana. The charm of the spot is due not alone -to the interest that arises from an opportunity to study animal and -vegetable life under favorable conditions, but also the high degree of -intelligent efficiency that has been introduced into the life of the -Station with the advent of the present Secretary of Agriculture and -Director, Dr. Calvino. Its beneficial influence is felt throughout the -entire Republic. - -Owing to the fact that agricultural products form the chief source of -Cuba's revenues, the protection of her various grains, grasses and -useful plants from infection and disease of whatever nature, becomes a -matter of prime importance. Plant diseases and insect pests have brought -ruin to agricultural efforts in many parts of the world. Fortunately -perhaps most of the country's agricultural effort is devoted to the -production of sugar cane, which is subject to less danger from disease -than almost any other plant of great economical value or utility. - -Tobacco, in the western end of the Island, has long been made the -subject of study and care, with the result that efficient protection has -been secured. Various other plants, however, and especially fruits, are -extremely susceptible to disease and to infection. Some of these -including citrus fruits, the cocoanut and the mango, have recently -suffered severely from diseases that have been imported from other -countries. - -Cuba probably suffers less from these troubles than any other country -within the tropics. Nevertheless her cocoanut industry, owing to the -introduction of what is termed "bud rot," a few years ago, was reduced -from an annual exportation of 20,000,000 nuts to only a little over -2,000,000. A disease introduced from Panama also greatly injured a -variety of the banana known as the "manzana." - -Not, however, until the unfortunate arrival of the "Black Fly," -discovered in India in 1903, and afterwards in some mysterious way -conveyed to Jamaica, whence it found its way into Cuba in 1915, near -Guantanamo, did the Government awaken to the fact that it was -confronted by a serious pest that threatened not alone the citrus fruit -industry, but the production of mangoes and also coffee. - -As soon as the Department of Agriculture became aware of the nature of -this new disease, steps were taken to combat it scientifically, and with -all of the resources at the disposal of the Government. An appropriation -of $50,000 was at once granted and afterwards extended to $100,000. With -this fund the Bureau of Plant Sanitation was quickly organized, with a -central office in Havana. Competent inspectors were assigned to the -three principal ports, where supervision over both imports and exports -is conducted. - -Inspectors in each province were installed to investigate the condition -of various crops with special attention given to the Black Fly. Squads -of trained men were organized to combat this pernicious diptera, -especially in the vicinity of the City of Havana, whence the disease had -been brought from Guantanamo. Passengers probably carried infected -mangoes from that city to Vedado, a suburb of the capital, and from this -center the Black Fly spread over a radius of ten miles around the city, -giving the Bureau of Plant Sanitation an infinite amount of trouble. - -Expert entomologists and trained men were brought from Florida to aid in -the eradication of the enemy. A systematic pruning, spraying and general -campaign against the Black Fly has been carried on ever since with more -or less success. Badly infected trees have been cut down and burned, -while gangs of men, organized as "fly fighters," are conveyed in -automobiles with their apparatus from one orchard to another, keeping up -a continual struggle against this destructive insect. - -In the neighborhood of Guantanamo, where the pest had secured a -foothold, a determined warfare is being waged. This enemy to several of -the best fruits is undoubtedly one of the most difficult to contend with -that has appeared in Cuba, but with the expenditure of time, money and -much effort, it will undoubtedly be eradicated. - -The Bureau of Plant Sanitation is under the direction of Dr. Johnson, a -highly trained and energetic official who has devoted the greater part -of his life to the study of plant enemies and to the successful -elimination of the danger and loss that come from them. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -SUGAR - - -Considered from the point of view of agriculture, manufactures or -commerce, Cane is King in Cuba. The sugar crop of 1918, amounting to -25,346,000 bags, or 3,620,857 tons, was sold for over $350,000,000; and -the crop of 1919, consisting of 27,769,662 bags, equivalent to 3,967,094 -tons, will probably realize the sum of $500,000,000. The significance of -these facts may be strikingly appreciated by making a simple comparison. -The Cuban sugar crop of 1919 is worth $200 for every man, woman and -child on the island; while the corn crop of the United States, the most -valuable crop of that country, worth $3,000,000,000, is equal to only -$30 per capita of the population. - -The production and consumption of sugar throughout the world was -practically doubled during the fifteen years preceding the world war. -The total production for 1914 was 18,697,331 tons, of which 8,875,918 -tons came from beets, and 9,821,413 tons from cane. As a consequence of -the war, the world production for 1919 was only 16,354,580 tons, of -which only 4,339,856 tons were obtained from beets, while 12,014,724 -tons were obtained from cane. The crop of 1919 shows, therefore, a gross -shortage of 2,342,751 tons compared with that of 1914, without taking -into account the normal increase in consumption indicated by the -experience of the fifteen years before the war; during which period the -production of cane sugar in Cuba was actually trebled in volume, showing -an average annual increase of approximately 125,000 tons. The production -of sugar in Cuba in 1914 was 2,597,732 tons, and in 1919 it was -3,967,064 tons; showing an average annual increase of about 275,000 -tons, or approximately seven per cent. These figures, taken with those -of the fifteen preceding years, indicate that the development of the -cane sugar business in Cuba during the past twenty years, or since the -establishment of the Republic, has been of steady growth and healthy -proportions. - -Natural conditions have greatly favored the growing of sugar cane in -Cuba, and the demand for sugar throughout the world has increased so -rapidly that it is not surprising that this industry has become -paramount in the insular Republic. Begun on a small scale and in almost -indescribably primitive fashion nearly four hundred years ago, as -related in the first volume of the History of Cuba, it was not until -near the end of the sixteenth century that the industry was established -on a secure foundation. Even then it received little encouragement from -the Spanish Government, and it was not until the close of the eighteenth -and opening of the nineteenth century that it began to assume the -proportions for which nature had afforded opportunity. With the -emancipation of the island from peninsular rule, however, and the firm -establishment of a government of Cuba by Cubans and for Cubans, the -sugar industry has developed into proportionately one of the greatest in -the world. - -A general impression prevails that practically all of the lands in Cuba -are adapted to the profitable cultivation of sugar cane; that numerous -large and desirably located tracts, suitable in character and sufficient -in area to justify the installation of modern "centrales" or factories -of normal average capacity, are still to be found, scattered throughout -the island and purchasable at nominal cost when compared with their -economic value; and that the annual production of sugar in Cuba can, -therefore, be profitably increased to the extent even of "supplying the -whole world with all the sugar it needs." This impression is, however, -erroneous and misleading. General James H. Wilson, commanding the -Military Department of Matanzas and Santa Clara under the first -Government of Intervention, who was esteemed an authority on the -subject, reported in 1899 that it was a mistake to suppose that all -Cuban lands were of the first quality, such as would grow sugar cane -continuously for twenty or thirty years without replanting; that there -were in fact few such estates in Cuba; that most of the land, whether -red or black soil, produces cane for only twelve or fifteen years, and -much of it for from three to five years only; and that, in the two -provinces named, there was then little new or virgin cane land left, -nearly all of first class quality having at some time been under -cultivation. In this report he did not, however, take into account the -extensive areas of "cienaga" or swamp lands, which would not be -available for cane growing purposes until drained. Since then it has -also been satisfactorily demonstrated that some of the so-called -"savana" land, which has a "mulatto" or yellow soil, hitherto regarded -as worthless for sugar-producing purposes, can be made to produce good -crops of cane by the judicious application of fertilizers and with -suitable methods of cultivation. Sufficient time has not elapsed to -determine the durability of such plantations. - -More conservative opinions, entitled to serious and careful -consideration, have been expressed to the effect that first class new -and virgin cane lands, favorably located and now available, can still be -purchased in Cuba at figures as low as twenty dollars an acre and in -sufficient area to make possible the profitable production of 3,000,000 -tons of sugar above the present output, which approximates 4,000,000 -tons; increasing the total to 7,000,000. It does not seem that such -great areas could easily be hidden under a bushel in as small an island -as Cuba, and it is probable that not more than one half of the total -area of the new lands, purchasable at such a price, would be suitable -for cane-growing purposes; in which case the cost would be raised to -approximately forty dollars an acre for the actual cane-producing area. -If these opinions and claims are accepted, it would seem unreasonable -to expect that such large areas of land, yet remaining and now -available, could average as good or prove as economically productive as -the lands now actually under cultivation; and it would not, therefore, -seem unreasonable to assume that to produce 3,000,000 additional tons of -sugar would require an area nearly if not quite as large as that now -required to produce the present annual output of approximately 4,000,000 -tons. It is certainly difficult to believe that the area of land now -producing sugar could be duplicated from the new and virgin lands now -available in Cuba. The recent purchase of considerable acreages along -the line of the newly constructed Northern Railway by the American Sugar -Refining Company and the Czarnikow-Rionda interests, at prices ranging -from seven hundred and fifty to one thousand dollars a caballeria, or -about seventy five dollars an acre, for the actual cane-growing and -sugar-producing area, would seem to emphasize the conclusion that first -class new and virgin cane lands, yet remaining and now available in -Cuba, are not so plentiful or so cheap as claimed by some and generally -supposed. - -The total area of Cuba is estimated at a maximum of about 30,000,000 -acres; and it is probable that not more than ten per cent of this total -area, or 3,000,000 acres, is adapted to and now available for the -profitable cultivation of sugar cane, with sugar at even relatively -normal pre-war average prices. Indeed it is doubtful if even continuance -of the present abnormally high prices for sugar could greatly enlarge -such now available area. Large tracts of the richest lands in Cuba, -favorably conditioned and advantageously located but now covered by -"cienagas" or swamps, can however be effectively and economically -drained and made available for the cultivation of sugar cane; and such -lands when drained should produce sugar more economically and profitably -than any similar area of land in the island now growing cane. The -largest of these swamps are in the Cauto River valley, in the vicinity -of the Bay of Cardenas, and along the line of the Roque Canal leading -thereto, and in the region covered by the Cienaga de Zapata. The -reclaimable area of these swamp lands is estimated at not less than -750,000 acres. - -Putting the present average annual production of cane in Cuba at 20 long -tons, and the average yield of sugar at 11.25 per cent, or 2.25 tons an -acre, and assuming a gross yearly production of 4,000,000 tons of sugar, -indicates that about 35,000,000 tons of cane are grown upon -approximately 1,750,000 acres of land; and allowing an additional -500,000 acres, to provide for and cover planting, replanting as -pasturage, it would seem that approximately 2,250,000 acres of the best -conditioned and most favorably located cane lands now available are -required to produce the present output of 4,000,000 tons. Careful -consideration of the subject leads to the conclusion that there are not -now available in the island over 500,000 acres of new and virgin lands, -upon which cane can be planted and profitably grown, with sugar at -prices approximating the pre-war ten-year average. But these additional -lands cannot reasonably be expected to average as good or prove as -economically productive as the lands now actually planted with and -growing cane. It should not be unreasonable to allow, for planting, -replanting and pasturage, the additional 250,000 acres required to -complete the estimated 3,000,000 acres given as the probable maximum -area adapted to, and now available for, the profitable cultivation of -cane in Cuba; unless and until the swamp lands, having an area of about -750,000 acres, shall be drained, reclaimed and put under cultivation. -Assuming that the additional 500,000 acres of land now available would -yield in the same proportion as the lands now planted and producing, an -increase of only 1,125,000 tons of sugar yearly would result, which -would raise the total annual production to about 5,125,000 tons. Should -the swamp lands be reclaimed and made productive, upon the same basis of -calculation there would be a further increase of only 1,687,500 tons, -bringing the total production of sugar in Cuba up to a maximum of only -6,812,500 tons a year, or at most, in round figures, about 7,000,000 -tons. It seems most improbable that a larger production could be -developed and permanently maintained, unless through fertilization and -improved methods of cultivation, including irrigation; and it appears -doubtful if such measures would more than compensate for the natural -deterioration of soil and exhaustion of lands, that will inevitably -result from long continued cultivation; for much of the lands now under -cultivation will not produce for periods longer than from three to seven -or at most ten years. - -The Cienaga de Zapata is the largest and most easily drainable of the -swamp areas mentioned. It is a vast alluvial plain, built up of the -washings of the most fertile and durable cane growing lands of Cuba, -enriched by the decomposition of the vegetable growth of uncounted -centuries. It has a total area of 15,307 caballerias, or 505,154 acres; -which is greater than the sugar-producing area of the Island of Porto -Rico, or that of the Hawaiian Islands; indeed it is nearly as large as -both combined. The net reclaimable area is not less than 450,000 acres; -which is sufficient to provide cane for thirty "centrales" of 250,000 -bags, or fifteen of 500,000 bags capacity each; equivalent to an output -of 7,500,000 bags, or approximately 1,000,000 tons of sugar a year; the -production of which would be effected under a combination of -advantageous economic conditions not found in the production of sugar -elsewhere in Cuba, if in the world. Chief among these advantageous -conditions are the fertility of the soil, the extent and compactness of -the area of land, its convenient and economical accessibility to a deep -water port, and the fact that the entire area can be irrigated with -water from the drainage canals at a maximum lift of not over ten feet. -The drainage of these lands can be effected entirely by gravity and at a -cost not exceeding twenty dollars per acre for the net sugar producing -area. Comprehensive surveys have been made for effecting the drainage of -this great territory by well known American engineers; and a plan -providing for the utilization of the lands, when drained, has been -prepared by Mr. R. G. Ward of New York City, who was one of the chief -factors under Sir William Van Home in the building and putting into -successful operation of the original main line of the Cuba Railroad, -extending from Santa Clara to Santiago. Under the franchises or -concessions controlled by Mr. Ward, the not distant future may, -therefore, see the present output of sugar in Cuba increased by -approximately one-fourth, from the now neglected lands of the Cienaga de -Zapata. - -According to Mr. H. A. Himely, who is a recognized authority on the -subject, 196 "centrales" handled the crop of 1919, amounting to -27,769,662 bags, or 3,967,064 tons of sugar. These "centrales" varied in -output, from a minimum capacity of only 145 to a maximum of 701,768 -bags, showing an average of about 142,000. Hence it is clear that the -word "central" conveys no definite idea of capacity, and constitutes no -exact unit of thought or calculation. Let us, however, assume that the -word applies to a complete modern sugar factory of 250,000 bags yearly -capacity, each bag containing 325 pounds of sugar; an output of -81,250,000 pounds. Factories of such capacity may be installed as single -units or in multiple units. To obtain maximum results it is necessary -that they shall be provided with sufficient areas of suitable land in -one contiguous and reasonably compact body, within easy access of an -economical deep water port, so that the costs of hauling and delivering -the cane to the mill, and of transporting the sugar and molasses to the -port, or shipside, may be reduced to the minimum. Now, of the new and -virgin cane lands still remaining and now available in Cuba, there are -few if any now obtainable which answer to these demands; and it is -questionable if there are yet remaining and now available in the island -new and virgin lands in tracts of sufficient size and aggregate area to -warrant the installation of more than twenty "centrales," having a -combined yearly capacity of 5,000,000 bags. Indeed it is believed that -it would be difficult if not impossible to find desirable and -economically satisfactory locations for even so large a number. - -Wherever possible, virgin forests are cleared and planted for cane -fields, as the accumulated humus of centuries produces a growth of cane -that with care will endure for from five to twenty-five years without -replanting. In Oriente cane fields are still producing good crops which -were planted fifty and even sixty years ago. This method of cane culture -is, however, most uneconomical, since the soil in time will certainly -become exhausted. No plant responds more quickly to judicious and -generous use of fertilizers than does sugar cane; and, according to the -best authorities, no matter how rich the soil may be, it pays to -fertilize. - -In opening up a sugar plantation, the trees are first felled and the -trunks of valuable timber drawn off the land, while the limbs, brush and -other waste materials are piled and burned. Owing to the previous shade -of the trees, the ground is free from weeds, and but little preparation -of the soil is required. - -For the first planting, men with heavy sharp pointed "jique" sticks, -about five feet in length, travel on parallel lines across the fields, -jabbing these stakes into the ground at intervals of four or five feet. -Behind them follow others, bearing sacks of cane cut into short pieces, -containing one or two joints each, a piece of which is thrust into each -hole, and the earth pressed over it with the bare foot. From the eyes of -these sections of cane in the rich, moist earth there quickly rise -shoots or sprouts of cane, and under the influence of the heavy tropical -rains that fall during the summer months the growth is so rapid that the -young cane shades the ground before weeds have time to grow. According -to the usual custom of the country, the stumps of trees are left to rot -and enrich the soil. Thus in the course of a few years a plantation is -started at comparatively small cost, from which cane may be cut without -replanting for many years to come. - -Where sugar plantations are developed upon "savana" lands, the rows may -be laid out with greater regularity and cultivated with modern machinery -and implements until the cane has secured sufficient growth. At the -expiration of eighteen months from the first planting, the cane should -be ready for the mill. Cutters, with heavy machetes, go into the fields, -seize the stalks of cane with the left hand, and with one deft blow of -the machete cut them close to the ground. With three or four more -strokes the canes are stripped of their leaves, topped, cut in halves -and thrown into piles, ready to be loaded upon carts and carried to the -mills or railroad stations. - -During recent years hand labor in the fields has been difficult to -secure in Cuba, and since the beginning of the European War the wages of -cane cutters have risen from the usual average of $1.25 to $2.50 and -even as high as $3.00 a day. Cuba has never had a sufficient amount of -resident labor to handle her enormous crops of sugar. Thousands of men -are brought to the Island annually, from Spain, the Azores, the Canary -Islands, Venezuela, Panama and the West India Islands. Most of these -laborers return to their homes at the end of the season, as they can -live there in comfort upon the money earned until the next cane-cutting -season. A machine for cutting cane, to do the work of forty men, has -been invented and in 1918 received practical trial, which is said to -have been fairly satisfactory. It is possible that this and other labor -saving machinery will soon be perfected so that the large number of -field hands now required may thus be replaced, to some extent, and the -cost of cane culture and cutting correspondingly reduced. - -Heavy two wheeled carts, drawn by from four to eight oxen, are still -generally used to convey the cane from the fields to the mills or -railroad stations. Plowing, also, is done largely with oxen, although -these are being replaced on the more modern and up to date estates by -traction engines hauling gang plows, and by motor driven trucks for the -transportation of the cane. One of the latter, which was first used in -1918, is provided with several light steel demountable bodies, that are -dropped at convenient places through the cane fields, where they are -loaded and then drawn up again upon the frame of the truck by the power -of the motor. The load of cane is then carried to the mill or loading -station, and the empty body brought back to the field for reloading. -Meanwhile other bodies have been loaded with cane, and the operation is -repeated. Other experiments are being made with trucks of the ordinary -type, mounted upon low wheels carrying so called caterpillar belts, so -that they may be used in wet weather and on soft ground. These -contrivances have not, however, eliminated the ox cart, which still -hauls from the fields over ninety per cent of the cane produced in Cuba. - -Labor plays an important part in the cost of producing sugar in Cuba and -largely determines the profits of the industry. In 1914 the cost of -producing a pound of sugar, in most of the well located and otherwise -favorably conditioned mills in Cuba, was estimated at about two cents; -and in some of the exceptionally favored mills even this figure left a -margin of profit. But with the rapid rise in wages following the -outbreak of the European War, and the consequent increase of expense of -cultivating, cutting and handling cane, the cost of making sugar has -become increasingly difficult to determine, as the wage rate may vary, -both from day to day, and also in the different sections of the island, -where labor may be scarce or plentiful. - -The urgent demand for sugar brought about by the European War caused -many fields to be planted with cane the soils of which were not suited -for the purpose. Mills were also erected at several places in districts -not favored by nature for sugar production. Later, when the selling -price of sugar was fixed by the Sugar Commission appointed for that -purpose, these less fortunately situated mills, compelled as they were -to pay practically double the usual amounts for labor, found little if -any profit remaining at the end of the year's operations. Those mills -favored by fertile lands and good locations yielded and continue to -yield excellent returns upon the capital invested, in spite of the -increased cost of labor. - -In Cuba two altogether different methods are employed for planting, -cultivating, cutting and delivering cane to the mills or loading -stations, known, respectively, as the "Administration" and the "Colono" -systems. Under the Administration system the work is directed by the -management of the enterprise, and all labor and other expenses involved -are paid by the owners of the property. Less than ten per cent of the -cane annually produced is grown and delivered by this system. More than -ninety per cent is, therefore, grown and delivered by the Colono system, -which constitutes the distinctive feature of Cuban agriculture so far as -it relates to the production of sugar. The system differs from the usual -tenant-farming system in that there is no agreed sharing of the crop or -fixed cash rental paid by the Colono to the landlord, in cases where the -Colono is not himself the proprietor of the land in question. The system -applies alike to lands owned by the enterprise, privately owned, or -leased by the enterprise or the Colono; the terms and conditions varying -slightly in each case. By a process of bargaining, based upon local -conditions, the Colono gets from 4-1/2% to 8%, with a probable average -of 6-1/4%, of the weight of cane grown and delivered, in sugar, or its -value in cash. That is to say, for every 100 pounds of cane grown and -delivered by him he would get an average of 6-1/4 pounds of sugar, or -its market value, in cash. Deducting the 6-1/4 pounds, paid as an -average to the Colono, from the 11-1/4 pounds, given as the average -yield of sugar, leaves only 5 pounds to the enterprise, out of which all -expenses must be paid before profits or dividends can be shown. -Moreover, under this system, any reduction in the yield of sugar would -fall entirely upon the enterprise until it reached the 6-1/4% payable, -on an average, to the Colono. As an illustration, take the crop of 1918 -and 1919, amounting to 4,000,000 tons of sugar; about 2,222,225 tons -went to the Colono, to cover the "cost of cane," while only 1,777,775 -tons went to the enterprise to cover all other expenses and provide for -dividends upon the capital invested: and, should the yield of sugar have -fallen one per cent, equivalent to 355,555 tons, the Colono would have -received the same, while the enterprise would have received only -1,422,220 tons--and so on, until the enterprise would get nothing at -all, although the earnings of the Colono would remain unchanged. - -The system is, therefore, well named, for the Colono receives first -consideration, while the enterprise carries the burden and accepts all -risks; against which the advantage of a possible abnormal yield is -certainly an inadequate compensation. Furthermore the mill owners -generally assume the burden and risk of "financing" their Colonos; -frequently advancing credits of from three to five times the amounts -contributed by the Colono himself. However, with all its disadvantages, -the Colono system is likely to prevail for some time to come, as it is -doubtful if, under existing labor conditions, the large tonnage of cane -now required could otherwise be obtained. The "guajiro," or cane-cutter, -is the autocrat of the situation; he knows he is scarce and, therefore, -believes that he is indispensable. As a result, his efficiency has -fallen from three and a quarter to two and a quarter tons a day; while -his earnings, on a tonnage basis, have risen from 150% to 200%, when -compared with pre-war conditions. The only solution for this unfavorable -situation seems to depend upon the provision of continuous employment -for labor, and the effecting of a rearrangement of the Colono system so -as to permit of the performance of all heavy work, such as plowing and -preparing the lands for planting, and hauling the cane from the fields, -by the owners of the sugar-producing properties. They can afford to -equip their establishments for the doing of such work upon a large and -comprehensive scale, that will accomplish an indirect reduction in the -present cost of producing and delivering cane to the mills, which, while -increasing the profits of the Mill Owners, will not reduce the net -earnings of labor or of the Colono. - -Natural conditions combine to favor the production of sugar in Cuba. -Ample rains, so essential to the growth of cane, fall during the summer -season while the cane is growing; and during the rest of the year the -weather is sufficiently cool to bring about the complete ripening of the -cane and the formation of its sucrose content, and to make possible the -easy harvesting and handling of the cane in the fields, and its -economical conveyance to the "centrales." Careless and uneconomical -methods have heretofore prevailed in the treatment of soils and in the -cultivation of cane, which will undoubtedly be remedied in due course of -time. - -Under a more intensive system of cultivation, assisted by a better -selection of seed, and the judicious and generous employment of -fertilizers, including irrigation, wherever practicable, the position of -Cuba as the largest and most economical producer of sugar in the world -will be permanently assured. - -No account of the sugar industry of Cuba would be complete which failed -to make special mention of some of the most notable enterprises now -existing in that Island; or of the men mainly responsible for their -inception and development. Taking them in the order of their productive -capacity, the following list covers the most important of such -properties: - - _Mills_ _Bags_ _Percentage_ - _Controlled_ _Produced_ _of Crops_ - Cuba Cane Sugar Corp 17 4,319,189 15.59 - Cuban-American Sugar Co 6 1,938,368 7.00 - Rionda Properties 7 1,856,563 6.60 - United Fruit Co 2 776,045 2.80 - Atkins Properties 4 736,043 2.66 - Pot Rodriguez Properties 2 625,054 2.29 - West Indies Sugar Finance Corp 3 619,204 2.23 - Gomez-Mena Properties 2 605,000 2.19 - Cuba Company Properties 2 587,800 2.12 - Mendoza-Cunagua Property 1 452,583 1.64 - -The Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation was organized in 1915, to acquire and -operate eighteen sugar properties upon which options had been obtained -by Don Manuel Rionda, head of the long established sugar brokerage firm -called the Czarnikow-Rionda Company, of New York City; who, though for -many years a resident of the United States, still clings to his Spanish -citizenship. Shortly after the organization of the corporation another -large sugar property, including a railroad leading to a port on the -Caribbean Sea, was acquired; but soon thereafter one of the original -properties purchased was sold and another was dismantled, so that -seventeen is the actual number now owned and operated by the -corporation. Mr. Rionda deserved and received great credit for having -negotiated, organized and launched the Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, as -and when he did; and the great success which almost immediately attended -its consummation brought him great prestige and made him at once a -dominant factor in and authority upon matters relating to sugar. It is -immaterial that the eminence achieved was due largely, if not entirely, -to the successive rises in the price of sugar, which applied especially -to the crops of 1916, 1917 and 1919; for nothing succeeds like success. - -The Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation was organized and financed upon the -strength of a letter written by Mr. Rionda to Messrs. J. & W. Seligman & -Co., of New York, on December 16, 1915, in which he made an "estimate -that, with sugar at the lowest, say 2 cents per pound, the Corporation -would earn at least 1-1/2 times the dividends on its preferred stock." -The f. o. b. production cost for the crop of 1915 and 1916, immediately -following, was reported as 2.748 cents per pound, notwithstanding the -fact that the sellers of the properties acquired had paid the so-called -dead season expenses. It is clear, therefore, that, "with sugar at its -lowest, say 2 cents per pound," the first year's operations of the -corporation would have shown an operating deficit of 0.748 cents per -pound, instead of earning "at least 1-1/2 times the dividends on its -preferred stock," as estimated by Mr. Rionda. The large gross operating -profits reported for the first year's operations were, therefore, due in -part to the exclusion of the dead season expenses, but mainly to the -rise in price of sugar, from 2 cents per pound in July, 1915, to an -average of 4.112 cents per pound during the crop season of 1915 and -1916. Such profits might possibly be creditable to Mr. Rionda's business -acumen, but it cannot be justly claimed that they were due to the -infallibility of his original estimates, or to his demonstrated -administrative capacity for the successful handling of so large and -complex an enterprise, the physical conditions of which make -administrative co-ordination extremely difficult and expensive. -Nevertheless, he has profited by the experience of succeeding years, and -shows an increasing capacity for coping with the numerous and -complicated problems involved in the administration of the largest sugar -producing enterprise in the world; and it is generally conceded that the -abnormally large profits now earned by the corporation, as the result of -further rises in the price of sugar, will provide for the readjustments -of and cover the improvements to the various properties comprised, that -are necessary to put the property, taken as a whole, upon an absolutely -satisfactory and permanently impregnable footing, physically and -financially. This goal is known to accord with Mr. Rionda's ardent -desire, as constituting the consummation of his most commendable -aspirations, and the crowning glory of his achievements. It is intimated -that he will then, and not until then, retire from the field of his -activities, in which he has played so conspicuous a role. - -The Cuban-American Sugar Company was incorporated in 1906, as a holding -company, to acquire the entire capital stock of five independent -companies then engaged in the cultivation of sugar cane and the -manufacture of raw and refined sugar in the Island of Cuba. Other -properties were acquired in 1908, and again in 1910, including a -refinery located at Gramercy, Louisiana. On September 30, 1918, the -Company owned 504,391 acres of land, of which 157,000 acres or 31 per -cent were planted with cane. It also leased 16,713 acres of land, of -which 7,825 acres or 47 per cent were under cultivation. Thus there was -a total of owned and leased lands of 521,104 acres, of which 164,825 -acres or 32 per cent were producing cane. The Cuban-American Sugar -Company was for years the largest sugar producing enterprise in the -world, until the organization of the Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, which -alone out-ranks it. It has grown out of the Chaparra Sugar Company, now -one of its subsidiary companies; which was organized shortly after the -conclusion of the Spanish-American War by State Senator Robert B. -Hawley, of Galveston, Texas, who at the very beginning employed as his -confidential representative and manager of the Chaparra property General -Mario G. Menocal, now President of the Cuban Republic but still regarded -as the actual General Manager of the Cuban-American Company's properties -in Cuba. The capabilities, enterprise and industry of these two men, and -the warm personal as well as cordial business relations established and -maintained between them, made it not only possible but easy for each to -supplement and co-operate with the other; and to those conditions the -great success of the Cuban-American Sugar Company is attributed. While -it is true that this Company, like all others, has profited greatly by -the high prices resulting from the War, it is also true that the -foundations of the success that has been attained by it were laid by the -courageous enterprise and perfected by the untiring industry of Mr. -Hawley, made effective in Cuba by the energetic and loyal co-operation -of General Menocal and his large following of patriotic Cuban compadres, -without whose assistance no sugar producing enterprise in Cuba has ever -been or will ever be a complete success. Indeed it is largely because of -the wise recognition of and sympathetic relations established with the -Cuban people by Mr. Hawley that the securities of the Cuban-American -Sugar Company are quoted in the markets of the world at higher figures -than those of any other sugar producing enterprise. - -The Rionda Properties are seven in number, comprising five estates which -are in effect the personal property of Don Manuel Rionda, his relatives -and family associates, and two others in which he is the controlling -factor. All of these properties are operated as separate and independent -units, or as individual or one-man enterprises, in the development and -supervision of which few have equaled and none have been more successful -than Mr. Rionda. Part of this success has been due to the fact that -during the creative period these independent properties have been as a -rule under the management of members of his own family, prominent among -whom were two nephews, Don Leandro J. Rionda and Don Jos B. Rionda, -both capable men, who grew up with the properties they came to -administer, thus acquiring that close personal touch with employees and -conditions which is so desirable an asset, but which is unfortunately -lost to the larger enterprises, and who rendered to their uncle, Don -Manuel, the loyalty he had inspired in them and so richly deserved at -their hands. In such circumstances it is not to be wondered at that -success of a high order has attended their co-operative efforts. Mr. -Rionda has no children of his own and it is probably for this reason -that so close an affection and so intimate business relations exist -between him and his two nephews and the fine sugar producing properties -they have developed under his auspices. - -The United Fruit Company entered the sugar business through an accident; -and yet it is the only company that combines all the essentials for -producing, transporting and refining sugar. Shortly after the conclusion -of the Spanish-American War, the Company acquired the Banes property, -and also a large tract of land on the Bahia de Nip, now known as the -Nip Bay property, upon both of which bananas were planted on an -extensive scale. But it was soon discovered that atmospheric conditions -in that part of Cuba were unfavorable to the successful production of -bananas. Therefore in order to utilize the lands which it had acquired -the Company planted them with cane and began the production of sugar; it -was of course already a transportation company; and now it has built a -refinery in Boston, to which its raw sugar is shipped from Cuba on its -own steamers, and there refined; thus completing the cycle of operations -from planting the cane to marketing the product. No other sugar -producing enterprise has ever gone into the business upon such -comprehensive lines. Such however are the lines upon which everything -undertaken by Andrew W. Preston and Minor C. Keith, the directing -geniuses of that company, is planned and projected; which largely -accounts for the enviable success that has always crowned their efforts. - -The Atkins Properties comprise one property belonging to Mr. Edward F. -Atkins, of Boston, who is reputed to be the first American to have -acquired a sugar property in Cuba, and three others belonging to or -controlled by the Punta Alegre Sugar Company, the most active -personality connected with which is Mr. Robert W. Atkins. The Punta -Alegre Sugar Company was incorporated, in 1915, as a holding and -operating company, engaged in the business of owning and operating -sugar plantations and factories in the Island of Cuba. It owns and -controls 40,831 acres and leases 25,717 acres of land; and is reported -to be doubling the capacity of its central at Punta Alegre. Credit for -the suggestion and initiative that resulted in the combination of these -properties and the organization of this Company is generally given to -Mr. Ezra J. Barker (Ray Barker) of New York, and Major Maude, a retired -British Army officer who for many years has resided in Cuba. The -prestige and financial standing of the officers and directors of and of -the capitalists interested in the Punta Alegre Sugar Company and the -Atkins Properties is sufficient to guarantee the successful operation of -these properties. - -The Pot Rodriguez Properties are the personal property of Don Jos -Lopez Rodriguez, who is a Spanish subject residing in Havana, and known -to every body as "Pot." Some say that this nickname is an abbreviation -of the word "poder," or "power." Certain it is that Don Pot Rodriguez -is, in fact, a human dynamo, the very embodiment of power and push. -Beginning as a book-seller, stationer and printer, on Obispo Street, -Havana, where he still conducts that business and makes his -headquarters, he has, in recent years, acquired a controlling interest -in the Banco Nacional de Cuba, a corporation having a capital of -$8,000,000; he has also invested several millions of dollars in an -elaborate suburban annex to the city of Havana, including a large -Portland cement plant; he has contracted to dig the Roque Canal, -projected to drain the Jovellanos Flats and part of the Cienaga or swamp -lands near Cardenas; and he is the sole owner of the Central Espaa, the -pride of his heart, upon which he has worked day and night for years, -hoping to make it the largest producing sugar "central" in Cuba. But -despite his efforts three other "centrales" surpass it in productive -capacity. - -The West Indies Sugar Finance Corporation is a protege if not actually a -subsidiary of the B. H. Howell-Cuban-American-National Sugar Refining -Company group, which under the intelligent and experienced direction of -Mr. H. Edson, of New York City, has come to be a factor of prime -importance in the sugar business in Cuba. It is claimed that the tonnage -of cane obtained from the lands of one of the properties owned by this -Corporation in the season of 1918-19 averaged higher than that of any -other sugar producing property in Cuba; and that the average yield of -sugar was as good as the best. The splendidly economical milling plants -at Tinguaro, Chaparra and Delicias were installed under Mr. Edson's -direction, and it is reasonable to assume that the mills of his own -corporation are equally efficient. Few men interested in the sugar -business in Cuba have had a broader, more varied or more useful -experience; and there are none whose judgment as to the value of cane -lands and sugar properties is more to be relied upon. - -The Gomez-Mena Properties were united and built up by Don Antonio -Gomez-Mena, a Spanish subject, who has resided for many years in Cuba, -where he developed a large mercantile business in the city of Havana; -out of the profits of which he began the building of the well known -Manzaa de Gomez-Mena, or Gomez-Mena Block, which has recently been -completed by his heirs; and also acquired and developed the two sugar -properties with which his name is identified, and which are now owned by -his son, Don Andres Gomez-Mena. These "centrales," known as Amistad and -Gomez-Mena, and located respectively near Guines and San Nicolas, in the -southeastern part of the Province of Havana are of special interest -since on them more clearly than elsewhere in Cuba are practically -demonstrated the benefits to be derived from irrigation and the value of -cienaga or swamp lands when drained and reclaimed. When Seor Gomez-Mena -purchased the properties they were regarded as of little value, because -a large part of the area consisted of swamp lands, carrying an excess of -water, while the balance was composed of higher lands of a character so -dry as to be practically valueless for purposes of agriculture. It was -rightly reasoned that both of these difficulties could be overcome. So -the wet lands were drained and the dry lands were irrigated; with the -result that these two properties are now regarded as among the most -profitably productive sugar estates in Cuba; relative areas, of course, -being taken into consideration. - -The Cuba Company Properties were developed by Sir William C. Van Home -for the purpose primarily of providing traffic for the newly constructed -Cuba Railroad; which fact accounts for their location along that line, -remote from shipping ports, at a time when more desirable locations -could have been acquired, looked at from the point of view of economical -sugar production. Nevertheless both of these properties seem to have -paid well upon the capital invested in them, while at the same time -contributing handsomely to swell the revenues of the Cuba Railroad; all -of which speaks well for the sagacity and enterprise of Sir William Van -Home, and increases the credit to which he is justly entitled. - -The Mendoza Cunagua Property differs from all other sugar producing -properties in Cuba in that it was projected, developed and built up as a -complete whole, from start to finish, by a group of Cuban capitalists -dominated by members of the well known and highly respected Mendoza -family; the most active personalities in the enterprise being Don -Antonio and Don Miguel Mendoza. Considered in every feature and detail, -the Central Cunagua Property is probably the most complete and most -perfectly appointed and equipped cane growing and sugar producing -establishment that was ever created as the result of one continuous and -comprehensive effort; Don Antonio Mendoza having the credit for its -accomplishment. At Cunagua more than any where else in connection with -the growing of cane and the production of sugar does the human equation -receive prime consideration, as compared with the beasts of the field, -or the machinery of the factory; all of which are, however, looked upon -as assets and are well cared for. So well and thoroughly, indeed, was -all of this planned and accomplished, and so promisingly did everything -point towards a future rich with reward, honestly earned and well -deserved by the creators of this splendid property, that it is in a -sense regrettable to have to add that the Central Cunagua Property has -recently been sold to the American Sugar Refining Company of New York -City; which company has also acquired additional lands in its vicinity, -upon which a duplicate of the Central Cunagua will be installed. - -There are many other meritorious cane growing and sugar producing -enterprises in Cuba, that are deserving of consideration; but which -cannot be satisfactorily described within the space here available for -the purpose. It must suffice to add that of the total sugar produced in -Cuba during the season of 1918 and 1919, amounting to 27,747,704 bags, -13,587,733 bags or 49.04 per cent were produced by sixty-five properties -owned or controlled by American interests, and 14,159,971 bags or 50.96 -per cent were produced by one hundred and thirty-one properties owned or -controlled by Cuban and European interests. It may not be amiss also to -call attention to the fact that the sugar crop of Cuba, for the season -of 1918-19 amounted to nearly one-fourth of the total sugar production -of the world. If allowance is made for the normal average increase in -consumption of sugar, as indicated by experience during the fifteen -years just before the European War, the world's production of sugar for -the year 1919 should have been 21,813,551 tons, while in fact it -amounted to only 16,354,580 tons. This shows that the actual net -shortage in the world's production of sugar amounted to 5,458,971 tons -instead of the 2,342,751 tons commonly mentioned, the latter figures -representing only the difference in production between the years 1914 -and 1919. This indicates that there are no grounds for apprehension on -the part of anyone contemplating investing in desirable property in -Cuba, as to the world's production overtaking the world's consumption of -sugar for a number of years to come. The economic position of Cuba as -the premier sugar-producing country of the world may therefore be -confidently regarded as secure. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -TOBACCO - - -This strangely hypnotic leaf of the night-shade family seems to have -originated in the Western Hemisphere, and that variety familiar to -commerce, known as the Nicotina Tabacum, was in popular use among the -aborigines of the West Indies, Mexico and the greater part at least of -the North American continent, probably for thousands of years before the -written history of man began. - -Christopher Columbus and his followers noted the fact that the Indians -of Cuba wrapped the clippings from peculiar aromatic dark brown leaves -in little squares of corn husks, which they rolled and smoked with -apparent pleasure. It did not take long for the Spanish conquerors to -fall into the habit of the kindly natives who received them and who -almost immediately offered them cigars in token of welcome to the Island -of Cuba. - -Tobacco was grown at that time in nearly all parts of the Island. Rumor -soon circulated, however, that the best weed was grown only in the -extreme western end of Cuba, known today as the Vuelta Abajo, or down -turn, and the report proved true, since only in Pinar del Rio is grown -the superior quality of leaf that has made that section famous -throughout the world. Neither has careful study or analysis of soils -betrayed the secret of this superiority over tobacco grown in other -parts of the Island. - -The choice tobaccos of the Vuelta Abajo are grown in a restricted -section of which the City of Pinar del Rio is the approximate center. -The whole area of the Vuelta will not exceed thirty miles from east to -west, nor is it more than ten miles from north to south. And even in -this favored district, the really choice tobacco is grown in little -"vegas," or fields, comprising usually a small oasis from three to -fifteen acres in extent, in which a very high grade of tobacco may be -grown, while adjoining lands, similar in appearance, but lacking in the -one magic quality which produces the desired aroma and flavor, are -largely wanting. The prices obtained for the tobacco grown on these -favored "vegas" seem almost incredible. A bale of this tobacco, weighing -between 80 and 90 pounds, will readily sell at from $100 to $500. - -When one considers that with the use of cheese cloth as a protection -from cut worms, from eight to twelve bales are taken from an acre, -valued at $200 each, which means a return of approximately $2,000 per -acre for each crop, the importance of the tobacco crop in Vuelta Abajo -may be appreciated. - -The value of an acre of any land that will return $2,000 annually to the -grower, at 10% interest on invested capital, would be $20,000. It is -needless to state that this price for tobacco lands, even in Vuelta -Abajo, does not prevail. It is nevertheless true, that many first-class -vegas of tobacco are held at prices that place them practically beyond -the reach of purchase. - -In spite of the undoubted profits of tobacco growing in Cuba, the -condition of the "veguero," as far as financial prosperity is concerned, -is far from enviable. As a rule, while knowing how to grow tobacco, he -does not know, nor does he care to learn, how to grow anything else. All -of his energy and time are devoted to the seed bed, the transplanting, -the cultivation, cutting, and curing of the leaf. He seldom owns the -soil on which the crop is grown, and usually prefers to be a -"Partidario" or grower of tobacco on shares with the owner. - -The owner furnishes the land, the seed, the working animals and what is -more important still, credit at the nearest grocery or general store, on -which the family lives during the entire year, and for which the -interest paid in one form or another constitutes a burden from which -the "veguero" seldom escapes. The latter furnishes the labor, time, care -and knowledge necessary to bring the crop to a successful termination. -When the tobacco is sold, the "veguero" receives his part of the -returns, pays his bills, and usually invests the remainder in lottery -tickets and fighting chickens. - -The life of the tobacco plant, from transplanting to the time in which -it is due and removed from the fields, is only about ninety days. The -selected seed is sown in land on which brush or leaves have been -previously burned, destroying injurious insect life, while furnishing -the required potash to the soil. The seed beds are known as "semilleros" -and are carefully tended until the plants are five or six inches in -height, when they are removed and carried to the "vega," previously -prepared with an abundance of stable manure or other fertilizer, well -rotted and plowed in. In three months' time, with care and careful -cultivation, a crop will be ready for cutting and curing. - -The semilleros are prepared usually during the latter part of September, -or early October, when the fall showers are still plentiful. By the -first of January, if the plants have had sufficient growth and the -weather is cool, clear and dry, the leaves are cut in pairs, either -united to the stalk or connected by needle and heavy thread, and -afterwards strung over a bamboo or light pole known as a "cuje." - -To each "cuje" are assigned two hundred and twenty pairs of leaves. -These are carried to the tobacco barns, with sides built usually of -rough board slabs, above which is a tall sharp roof, made from the -leaves of the guana palm. Only one or two openings are placed in each -tobacco barn to admit the required amount of air, while the tobacco, -still supported on poles, goes through a process of curing, which the -experienced "veguero" watches with care. - -At the proper time the crop is removed from the poles and done up in -"mantules" or bundles, which are afterwards delivered to the -"escogidos," where tobacco experts select and grade the leaves in -accordance with their size and condition. After this they are baled and -incased in "yagua," a name given to the broad, tough base of the royal -palm leaves, and sent to Havana or other central mart for sale. Tobacco -buyers from all over the world come to Havana every fall to purchase -their supplies of raw material for manufacture into cigars and -cigarettes. - -Excellent tobacco is grown also in the Valley of Vinales, and may be -successfully cultivated in nearly all of the valleys, pockets and basins -that lie in the mountains of Western and Northern Pinar del Rio. This -tobacco as a rule is graded in quality and price a little below that of -the choice Vuelta Abajo center. - -Along the line of the Western Railroad, extending east from Consolacion -del Sur to Artemisa, tobacco is also grown on the rolling lands and -among the foothills that lie between the railroad and the southern edge -of the Organ Mountains. This section, some fifty miles in length, with -an average width of five or six miles, in which tobacco forms quite an -important product, is known as the Semi-Vuelta or Partido district. Its -leaf, however, brings in the open market only about half the sum -received for the Vuelta Abajo. Nevertheless, at all points in this -section where irrigation is possible, the culture of tobacco, especially -when grown under cheese cloth, is profitable. - -Again, along the banks of several rivers south and east of the City of -Pinar del Rio, especially along the Rio Hondo, a very good quality of -tobacco is grown in the sandy lands rendered fertile by frequent -overflow of these streams in the rainy season as they pass through the -level lands of the southern plains. - -The chief enemies of the tobacco plant are some five or six varieties of -worms that cut and eat the leaves. The larvae are hatched from the eggs -of different kinds of moths that hover over the tobacco fields at -night. Some are hatched from egg deposits on the plant itself, and at -once begin eating the leaf, while others enter the ground during the -day, coming out during the evening to feed, and no field unless -protected by cheese cloth, or carefully watched by the patient veguero, -can escape serious damage or complete destruction from these enemies of -tobacco. It is a common thing at sundown to see the father, mother and -all members of the family big enough to walk, down on hands and knees, -hunting and killing tobacco worms. On bright moonlight nights, the worm -hunt is carried on assiduously, and in the early hours of dawn the -veguero and his family, if the crop is to be a success, must be up like -the early bird and after the worm, otherwise there will be nothing to -sell at the end of the season. - -Even with the greatest care, the worms will take a pretty heavy toll out -of almost any field, and to save this loss, the system of covering -tobacco fields with cheese cloth was introduced into Cuba from the State -of Florida, some twenty years ago. Posts, or comparatively slender -poles, are planted through the field at regular intervals, usually -sixteen feet apart. From the tops of these, galvanized wire is strung -from pole to pole, in squares, while over this is spread a specially -manufactured cheese cloth or tobacco cloth, usually woven in strips of a -width convenient to fit the distance between the poles. The seams are -caught together with sail needles and cord, making a complete canopy -that not only covers the field but has side walls dropping from the -white roof to the ground below. Screen doors or gates are built in the -side walls, so that mules with cultivators may pass through and work -under these great white canopies, which protect the growing plants from -the cut worm and save the poor old veguero and his family from the bane -of their lives. The cost of poles, wire and covering cloth, under normal -conditions, is about $300 per acre, and when to this are added several -carloads of manure or other fertilizer, the expense of covering, -fertilizing, cultivating and caring for an acre of tobacco will easily -reach $500, whence the deduction that tobacco crops must bring a good -price in Cuba is evident. - -As a result of these huge tent-like canopies, that frequently cover -hundreds of acres, every leaf is perfect, and if of sufficient size and -fineness, may be used as a wrapper. When one takes into consideration -the fact that a "cuje," or 220 pairs of leaves strung on a pole, is -worth from $4 to $5, and that the same leaves when perforated by worms, -can be used only as cigar fillers, worth from 75 to $1.35 per "cuje," -the advantage of cheese cloth covering to a tobacco field becomes -evident. Owing to lack of capital, however, the small native farmer -usually is compelled to do without cheese cloth, and to rely upon the -laborious efforts of himself and his family, to keep the worm pest from -absolutely ruining his crop. - -The tobacco industry at the present time commercially ranks next to -sugar. The total value of the crop in 1917 approximated $50,000,000, of -which $30,000,000 was exported to foreign countries. Of the exportations -of that year, the largest item consisted of the leaf itself, packed in -bales numbering 291,618, valued at $19,169,455; cigars, 111,909,685 -valued at $9,548,933; cigarettes, 12,047,530 packages, valued at -$406,208; picadura or smoking tobacco, 261,461 kilos, valued at -$251,874. There were 258,994,800 cigars during the same year consumed in -Cuba, with an approximate value of $12,000,000; of cigarettes, -355,942,855 packages, valued at $7,830,742; and of picadura, 393,833 -pounds valued at $196,719. During the four years inclusive from 1913 to -1917 the value of exported tobacco increased a little over $6,000,000, -while domestic consumption increased about one-half or $3,000,000. - -In the various factories of cigars and cigarettes of Havana, some 18,000 -men and 7,000 women are employed. In other sections of the Island, -outside of the capital, some 16,000 men and 13,000 women are engaged in -the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes, making a total of 34,000 men -and 20,000 women employed in the tobacco industry, aside from those who -are engaged in tobacco cultivation in the fields of the various -provinces. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -HENEQUEN - - -Next to the "Manila hemp" of the Philippines, which is really a variety -of the banana, the henequen of Yucatan is probably the most important -cordage plant in the world. The name henequen is of Aztec origin, and -the plant itself, a variety of the agave or century plant family, is -indigenous to Yucatan, whence it has been introduced not only into other -sections of Mexico but also into Cuba, Central America and the west -coast of South America. No satisfactory substitute has been found for -henequen in the manufacturing of binder twine, so essential to the -harvesting of the big grain crops in the Western States of America. - -Revolutions in Mexico following the overthrow of Porfirio Diaz succeeded -for a time at least in paralyzing if not destroying the sisal industry -that had made Yucatan celebrated throughout the world and had caused -Merida to be known as a city of millionaires; and shortly before the -beginning of the great European War, men who had devoted their lives to -henequen culture and who feared that Mexico could no longer be relied on -for this product, began to look over the Cuban field for opportunity for -the more extensive cultivation of the plant. - -A superficial survey convinced them that large areas of soft lime rock -land, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, furnishing all the -elements essential to the successful growth of henequen, were to be had -in Cuba. Similar soils are found in Yucatan, where the average annual -rainfall and general climatic conditions are so nearly like those of -Cuba that it is fairly to be assumed that a crop which will do well in -the one land will also flourish in the other. In consequence, large -areas, in which Cuban, Spanish and American capitalists are -interested, have been planted with henequen in Cuba. - -[Illustration: THE GOMEZ BUILDING - -One of the finest business buildings in Havana is the great Gomez -Building, which occupies an entire block fronting upon the beautiful -Central Park and reached by way of the Prado. Although only five stories -in height, it vies in appearance and commodiousness with the best -business buildings in any American city. Its site was well chosen for -the display of its handsome architecture and commanding proportions, and -it stands in proximity to the National Theatre and other noteworthy -structures.] - -The first planting on a large scale was done by the Carranza Brothers, -of Havana, just south of the city of Matanzas, about twenty years ago; -Don Luis Carranza having married a daughter of Don Olegario Molino, of -Yucatan, and thus having become interested in the characteristic -industry of the latter country. A company of Germans afterward purchased -the property and close by the railroad station erected a very complete -plant for the decortication of the henequen and the manufacture of its -fibre into rope and cordage of all sizes, from binder twine to -twelve-inch cables. From this establishment for years the Cuban demand -was chiefly supplied. - -Shortly after Cuba, in 1917, followed the United States in declaring war -against Germany, the Spanish Bank of Havana purchased this property from -the owners, and at once increased its capital stock to six millions of -dollars; two and a half million preferred and three and a half million -common stock. At the present time the estate consists of three -plantations on which henequen is grown, located at Matanzas, Ytabo and -Nuevitas, with a total area of 120 caballerias or 4,000 acres of land. -It is said that owing to the demands of the European War, and the rise -of the price from 7 to 19-1/2 per pound, the net returns of the -Matanzas Cordage Company the first year after purchasing the estate -amounted to $800,000. - -The International Harvester Company of the United States has purchased a -tract of 3,300 acres of excellent henequen land near the city of -Cardenas, on the north coast of the province of Matanzas, for experiment -and demonstration, and under the direction of Yucatecos familiar with -the industry has planted it in henequen. This action was taken by this -company largely because of the uncertain and unsatisfactory conditions -of the henequen industry in Yucatan, caused by Mexican revolutions and -the arbitrary conduct of Mexican officials. In the year 1916, -444,400,000 pounds of henequen were exported from the Gulf ports of -Mexico and sold almost entirely in the United States, at 15 per pound, -since which time the price has risen to 19-1/2 per pound. This -unprecedented figure was brought about by the practical seizure of the -Yucatan crop by ex-Governor Alvarado, who allowed the actual growers -only 7 per pound for the sisal, he appropriating the difference between -that and the market price in New York. - -Twenty more caballerias or 666 acres of henequen are owned by -independent parties in the neighborhood of Nuevitas, on the north coast -of the Province of Camaguey. The Director-General of Posts and -Telegraph, Colonel Charles Hernandez, with a few associates, has -purchased 175,000 acres along the southern shore of the Little Zapata, -that forms the extreme western end of Pinar del Rio. It is proposed to -establish here large plantations of henequen, that will give employment -to many natives of the tobacco district who are now out of work during -some seasons of the year. - -The City of Cardenas, on the north coast, promises soon to become -another great henequen center, and the traveler riding west over the -main automobile drive leading out of Cardenas may view a panorama of -growing henequen spread out on both sides of the road as far as the eye -can reach. The peculiar bluish green of this plant growth, dotted with -royal palms, adds an odd color effect to the landscape, not easily -forgotten. - -Putting the maximum annual production of henequen or sisal hemp in -Yucatan at 1,200,000 bales, of 400 pounds to the bale, and assuming an -average yield of three bales per acre, indicates that about 400,000 -acres of land are actually producing hemp in that country; and allowing -for a margin of twenty five per cent of such area, to cover and provide -for depletion and propagation, it would seem that about 500,000 acres of -land is the approximate area now actually planted with and growing -henequen on that peninsula. These statements are made to justify the -calling of attention to the fact that large areas of more or less flat, -rocky lands exist in various localities throughout the island of Cuba, -notably in the western extremity of the Province of Pinar del Rio, along -the north coast from the city of Matanzas to the Bahia de Cardenas, on -the Cayos and, at intervals, along the north coast from Caibarien to the -Bay of Nipe, and especially along the Caribbean Coast, in the vicinity -of the Cienaga de Zapata; all of which lands are possessed of the same -physical characteristics, and are subject to the same climatic -conditions that apply to the lands in Yucatan now planted with henequen -and at the present time successfully producing sisal hemp. The aggregate -of these several areas of henequen lands is conservatively estimated at -not less than 1,000,000 acres: or double the area now planted with -henequen in Yucatan. - -About 9,000 acres of these Cuban lands are now actually planted with and -successfully growing henequen; and about 5,000 acres are now producing -sisal hemp which in quantity and quality compares favorably with the -product of the best henequen lands in Yucatan. The results obtained from -these lands now actually planted and producing are conclusive as to the -results that could be obtained if other and larger areas of such lands -should be planted with henequen. - -Furthermore a large part of these Cuban henequen lands are so level and -have such uniform, unbroken surfaces that, at an expense less than that -involved in preparing the henequen lands of Yucatan, they could be put -in condition to be kept clean mainly by motor-driven mowing machinery, -instead of the enormously expensive man-power machete system employed -upon the rougher lands of Yucatan. In addition to such advantages these -rocky areas either comprise, or are margined by, large areas of rich -land capable of producing many important items required for human -sustenance; while in Yucatan everything needed to sustain human life has -to be imported. - -Finally, when consideration is given to the fact that sugar cane must be -cut during the dry season, while henequen can be cut and defibered more -advantageously during the wet season, it will readily be seen that the -co-ordination of these two operations, whenever possible, will tend to -solve and favorably determine the problem and cost of labor involved in -the production of both sugar and hemp. Administration expenses would -also be reduced by such co-ordination. These several advantages should, -therefore, contribute to make Cuba an active competitor with Yucatan for -the sisal hemp business, within the near future. The plan projected by -R. G. Ward for the drainage and development of the lands contained in -the Cienaga de Zapata, already mentioned in a preceding chapter of this -volume, contemplates the co-ordination of the sugar and hemp industries -upon a scale so large and comprehensive as to merit great success. The -consummation of such an enterprise should make a definitely favorable -and permanent impression upon the future of the two industries involved. -With a proper combination of capital and enterprise, the henequen-hemp -business in Cuba could readily be developed to a point where it would -rank second only to sugar in importance and profit yielding -possibilities; and such development should have a direct bearing upon -the certainty of supply and cost of the daily bread of the people of the -whole earth. It is, therefore, worthy of the most serious consideration. - -Henequen offers many advantages to capital, especially to those -investors who dislike to take chances on returns. First of all, the crop -is absolutely sure, if planted on the right soil. Lack of rains or long -droughts are matters of no importance, and the plant will continue to -thrive and grow without deterioration in the quality of fiber. In Cuba -this growth is said to average one inch on each leaf per month, and -since it grows, as an old expert expressed it, "both day and night, rain -or shine, even on Sundays and feast days, there is nothing to worry -about." Also it has practically no enemies. Cattle will not eat it -unless driven by starvation, which could not occur in Cuba. The crop is -never stolen, as the product could not be sold in small quantities. -Since the plant is grown on rocky lands, the leaves may be cut and -conveyed to the decortication plant at any season of the year. - -The life of the henequen plant is fifteen to twenty years, and the -average yield in Cuba is said to be about 70 pounds of fiber to every -1,000 leaves, and over 100 pounds are said to have been secured in -favorable localities. This compares well with the average yield in -Yucatan. In this connection it may be noted that at the World's -Exhibition in Buffalo, sisal hemp made from henequen in Cuba won the -world medal in competition with Yucatan and other countries. - -The following is an authentic estimate of the cost of growing henequen -and producing sisal or fibre from the same in Cuba. One hundred acres -are used as the unit of measure: - - Cost of 100,000 plants @ $40 per M $ 4,000 - Cost of preparing land 1,000 - Cost of planting @ $5 per M 500 - Cost of caring for and cultivation during four years 2,500 - ------ - $8,000 - Cost of cutting, conveying, decortication and baling 4,000 - ------- - $12,000 - - The returns from the first cutting four years after planting should be: - 100,000 plants with 30 leaves to the plant yield, 3,000,000 leaves - 3,000,000 leaves (60 lbs. fiber each 1000 leaves) 210,000 - lbs. @ 10 per lb $21,000 - - Cost of production 12,000 - ------- - Net profit per 100 acres $9,000 - ------- - Net profit per acre $90 - -Practical work in the field has demonstrated the fact that the cost of -producing henequen fibre or sisal, if carried on during a period of ten -years with the present price of labor, will amount to three cents per -pound, or $6,300 for the production of 210,000 pounds of fibre coming -from 100 acres of land. To this may be added for interest on capital -invested and possible depreciation of plant or property, $1,700, making -a total of $8,000. - -This sum, representing the average annual cost of producing, subtracted -from $21,000, the normal value of the crop at 10 per pound, will leave -a net return of $13,000 for the 100 acres, or $130 net profit per acre. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -COFFEE - - -To either Arabia or Abyssinia belongs the honor of having been the birth -place of those previous shrubs that were the forerunners of all the -great coffee plantations of two hemispheres. And from the seeds of this -valued plant is made probably the most universally popular beverage of -the world. The people of Europe, North Africa and Western Asia all drink -coffee. The same is true in most countries of South and Central America, -while in the United States and the West Indies no breakfast is complete -without it. - -Of all known nations, however, the people of Cuba consume the greatest -amount of the beverage per capita. Both in the city and in the country, -the fire under the coffee urn always burns, and neither invited guest -nor passing stranger crosses the threshold of a home without being -offered a cup of coffee before leaving. - -The introduction of coffee into Cuba, as before stated in this work, was -due to the influx of refugees, flying from the revolution in Santo -Domingo, in the first years of the nineteenth century. The majority of -these immigrants, of French descent, and thoroughly familiar with the -culture of coffee, settled first in the hills around Santiago de Cuba on -the south coast, where they soon started coffee plantations that later -became very profitable. Others located in the mountainous districts of -Santa Clara around the charming little city of Trinidad, where fine -estates were soon established and excellent coffee produced. - -From these first settlements the culture of the plant rapidly spread to -nearly all of the mountainous portions of the Island, where the soil was -rich, and where forest trees of hard wood furnished partial shade, so -essential to the production of first-class coffee. In the mountains, -parks and valleys that lie between Bahia Honda, San Cristobal and -Candelaria, in the eastern part of Pinar del Rio, many excellent estates -were established whose owners, residing in homes that were almost -palatial in their appointments, spent their summers on their coffee -plantations, returning to Havana for the winter. - -Revolutions of the past century unfortunately destroyed all of these -beautiful places, leaving only a pile of tumbled-down walls and cement -floors to mark the spot where luxurious residences once stood. Cuba, -during the first half of the 19th century, and even up to the abolition -of slavery in 1878, was a coffee exporting country, but with the -elimination of the cheap labor of slaves, and the larger profits that -accrued from the cultivation of sugar cane, the coffee industry -gradually dropped back to a minor position among the industries of the -Island, and thousands of "cafetales" that once dotted the hills of Cuba -were abandoned or left to the solitudes of the forests where they still -yield their fragrant fruit "the gift of Heaven," as the wise men of the -East declared. - -Of all the varied agricultural industries of Cuba there is none, -perhaps, that will appeal more than coffee growing to the home-seeker of -moderate means, the man who really loves life in the mountains, hills -and valleys beside running streams, where the air is pure and the shade -grateful, and the climate ideal. The culture of coffee is not difficult, -and by conforming to a few well-known requirements which the industry -demands it can easily be carried on by the wife and children, while the -head of the family attends to the harder work of the field, or to the -care of livestock in adjacent lands. - -The plant itself is an evergreen shrub with soft gray bark, and dark -green laurel-like leaves. The white-petaled star-shaped flowers, with -their yellow centers, are beautiful, and the bright red berries, growing -in clusters close to the stem are not unlike in appearance the -marmaduke cherries of the United States. The fragrance that fills the -air from a grove of coffee trees can never be forgotten. - -The shrub is seldom permitted to grow more than ten feet in height and -begins to bear within three or four years from planting. The berries -ripen in about six months from the time of flowering. Each contains two -seeds or coffee beans, the surrounding pulp shriveling up as the time -approaches for picking. - -During the gathering of the crop women and children work usually in the -shade of taller trees, such as the mango or aguacate, stripping the -fruit from the branches into baskets or upon pieces of canvas laid on -the ground, which may be gathered up at the corners and carried to the -drying floors where the berries are spread out as evenly and thinly as -possible and given all the air and sunlight available. Early in the -morning these are raked over to insure rapid drying. When sufficiently -dry the berries are run through hulling machines which remove the outer -pulp, leaving the finished green bean of commerce. - -Approximately 500 trees are planted to the acre in starting a coffee -plantation, and these will yield under favorable conditions at the -expiration of the fourth year about one half of a pound to a tree, or -250 pounds to the acre, the value of which would be $50. The sixth year -these trees should produce one pound each, making the return from one -acre $100. Two years later these same trees will yield $200 per acre, -and the tenth year $300. Each succeeding year, if well cared for, the -yield should increase until the trees reach maturity at twenty-five -years. - -On the western slopes of the great Cordilleras that sweep throughout the -length of Mexico, several varieties of excellent coffee are found. Among -these is one, that through some freak of nature, afterwards encouraged -and developed by the natives of that district, has been induced to -produce two crops a year. It is stated on reliable authority also that -trees ten years old, in this restricted area of western Mexico, will -yield five pounds of berries to the tree, or in the two periods of -annual bearing a total of ten pounds to each plant. The Department of -Agriculture is endeavoring to secure both seed and nursery stock from -this district, which will be transplanted to the Experimental Station at -Santiago de las Vegas, and definite data secured in regard to the -success of this variety of coffee in Cuba. - -Where several small coffee farms are located in the same vicinity, -hulling machines may be purchased jointly, and serve the needs of other -growers in the district. The crop when dried, cleaned and placed in -hundred-pound sacks, is usually strapped to the backs of mountain ponies -and thus conveyed to the nearest town or seaport for shipment to Havana. - -A coffee planter can always store his crop in the bonded warehouses of -Havana or other cities, and secure from the banks, if desired, advances -equivalent to almost its entire value. The price of green coffee on the -market at wholesale ranges from 20 to 25 per hundred weight. - -It is a common sight either in Bahia Honda or Candelaria to see long -trains of ponies bringing coffee in from the outlying foot hills, or -mountain districts. It is usually sold direct to local merchants, who -pay for the unselected unpolished beans, just as they come from the -hands of the growers, $20 per hundred weight. This high price is paid -owing to the fact that the Cuban product is considered, at least within -the limits of the Republic, the best coffee in the world, and it will -bring in the local markets a higher price than coffee imported from the -foreign countries. The retailers after roasting coffee, get from 40 to -50 per pound for it. - -In spite of its superiority and the demand for native coffee, less than -40% of the amount consumed is grown in Cuba. Most of it is imported from -Porto Rico and other parts of the world, and this, regardless of the -fact that nearly all of the mountain sides, valleys and foothills -belonging to the range that extends through Pinar del Rio from Manatua -in the west to Cubanas in the east, are admirably adapted to the -cultivation of coffee, as also are the mountains of Trinidad and of -Sancti Spiritus in the Province of Santa Clara, the Sierra de Cubitas -and la Najassa in Camaguey, and the Sierra Maestra range that skirts the -full length of the southern shore of Oriente. - -The available lands for profitable coffee culture in Cuba are almost -unlimited and are cheap, considering the fertility of the soil, the -abundance of timber still standing, the groves of native fruit trees, -the good grass found wherever the sun's rays can penetrate, the splendid -drinking water gushing from countless springs, and the many industries -to which these lands lend themselves, waiting only the influx of -capital, or the coming of the homeseeker. - -The Government of Cuba is anxious to foster the coffee industry, which -was once a very important factor in the prosperity of the Island. The -first protective duty was imposed in 1900; $12.15 being collected for -each 100 kilos (225 lbs.) of crude coffee, if not imported from Porto -Rico, that country paying only $3.40. During the first years of the -Cuban Republic this duty was increased to $18 per hundred kilos, and -later, 30% was added, making a total duty paid of $23.40 on every 225 -pounds of coffee imported. Porto Rico, however, is favored with a -reduction of 20% on the above amount by a reciprocity treaty, which -compels that country at present to pay only $18.20 per hundred kilos. - -Coffee in Brazil has been sold at from four to five cents per pound and -yet, we are told, with profit. On the supposition that it would cost 8 -per pound to grow it in Cuba, with the average market for the green -berries at 22, the profit derived from a coffee plantation properly -located and cared for is well worth considering, and since the grade -produced is one of the finest in the world, there is no reason why this -Island should not in time, supply if not the entire amount, at least a -large part of the high-grade coffee consumed in the United States. - -With the resumption of industries that must follow the termination of -the European War, the Government will do all in its power to persuade -families from the mountainous district of Europe to settle and make -their homes in Cuba. Some of them undoubtedly will be attracted to the -forest covered hills that offer so much in the way of health, charming -scenery and opportunities for the homeseeker with his family. It would -be a most delightful example of agricultural renaissance, if the -hundreds of "cafateles," abandoned for half a century, should again be -brought to life, with the resurrection of the old-time coffee -plantations, as an important Cuban industry. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -THE MANGO - - -Of all Oriental fruits brought to the Occident, the golden mango of -India is undoubtedly king. For thousands of years, horticulturists of -the Far East, under the direction of native princes, have worked towards -its perfection. Just when the seeds were introduced into Cuba, no one -knows, but certain it is that so favorable were both soil and climate -that the mango today, in the opinion of the natives at least, furnishes -the Island its finest fruit. It has so multiplied and spread throughout -all sections that it plays an important part in the decoration of the -landscape. - -Next to the royal palm, the mango is more frequently seen in traveling -along railroads or automobile drives than any other tree. Its beautiful -dark green foliage, tinged during spring with varying shades, from -cocoanut yellow to magenta red, is not only attractive to the eye but -gives promise of loads of luscious fruit during the months of June, July -and August. - -There are two distinct races or types of this family in Cuba, one known -as the mango, and the other as the manga. The terminations would suggest -male and female, although no such difference exists in sex. Both in form -and fruit, however, the types are quite different. - -The mango is a tall, erect tree, reaching frequently a height of 60 or -70 feet, with open crown and strong, vigorous limbs. The fruit is -compressed laterally, has a curved or beak-like apex, yellow or -yellowish green in color, often blushed with crimson. It is rich in -flavor but filled unfortunately with a peculiar fibre that impedes -somewhat the removal of the juicy pulp. - -Nearly all varieties of mangoes are prolific bearers. Their handsome -golden yellow tinted fruit not infrequently bends limbs to the breaking -point, so great is its weight. The fruit is from three to five inches in -length, and will weigh from five to twelve ounces. The skin is smooth -and often speckled with carmine or dark brown spots, and in most of the -seedlings there is a slightly resinous odor, objectionable to strangers. - -The manga, quite distinct from the mango both in form of tree and in -appearance of fruit, is easily distinguished at a distance. It grows -from 30 to 40 feet in height, is beautifully rounded or dome shaped, and -has a closed crown or top. The panicles in early spring are from 12 to -24 inches in length, pale green in color, usually tinged with red, and -in contrast with the deep green of its foliage produce rather a -startling effect. - -There are two types of the manga, one known as the Amarilla and the -other as the Blanca. More of the latter are found in the neighborhood of -Havana than in any other section of the island. Three of the most -perfect samples of the manga blanca, both in tree and fruit, are found -within a few rods of each other on the northern side of the automobile -drive from Havana to Guanajay, between kilometers 35 and 36. - -The mangas also are prolific bearers, whose fruit ripens in July and -August, a month or so later than the mango. The fruit is roundish, very -plump, and with the beak or point of the mango entirely missing. Its -color is lemon yellow with a delicate reddish blush, the length about -three inches and the weight from five to eight ounces. The skin, rather -tough, peels readily, and in eating should be torn down from the stem -towards the apex. The same fibre is present as in the mango, while the -pulp is very juicy, sweet, slightly aromatic and pleasant in flavor. - -The manga amarilla, closely allied to the blanca, is a very common form -and quite a favorite in the markets of Havana, where it is found towards -the end of July. The fruit is a deeper yellow than the blanca, very -juicy, and also very fibrous, with a weight varying from four to eight -ounces. These, with the mangoes above described, are seedling trees that -have gradually spread throughout the Island, the seed being scattered -along public highways and forest trails by men and animals. Horses, -cattle, goats and hogs are very fond of the mango. - -Since all mangoes give such delightful shade, and yield such an -abundance of luscious fruit throughout spring and early summer, the seed -has been planted around every home where space offered in city, hamlet -or country bohio. The center or "batey" of every sugar and coffee estate -in Cuba is made comfortable by their grateful shade, while single trees -coming from seeds dropped in the depths of the forest have gradually -widened out into groves. During the years of the Cuban War for -Independence, the fruit from these groves, from May until August, -furnished the chief source of food for insurgent bands that varied -anywhere from 200 to 2000 men. - -During the middle of the last century, when large coffee estates nestled -in the hills of Pinar del Rio, the mango, with its grateful shade and -luscious fruit, indicated the home or summer residence of the owner. -Today, of the house only broken stones and vine-covered fallen walls -remain, but the mangoes, old and gnarled, still stand, while around them -have spread extensive groves of younger trees, bearing each year tons of -fruit, with none to eat it save the occasional prospector, or the wild -hog of the forest. - -The Filipino mango, although not very common in Cuba, is occasionally -found in the western part of the Island, especially in the province of -Havana, where it was introduced many years ago, probably from Mexico, -although coming originally from the Philippine Islands, where it is -about the only mango known. The tree is rather erect, with a closed or -dome-shaped top, something similar to the manga. Its fruit is unique in -form--long, slender, sharply pointed at the apex, flattened on the -sides, and of a greenish yellow to lemon color when ripe. The pulp is -somewhat spicy and devoid of the objectionable fibre common to seedling -mangoes. It is usually preferred by strangers, although not as sweet and -delicious in flavor as other varieties of this family. The tree is -comparatively small, seldom reaching more than 30 feet in height. The -fruit is from four to six inches in length and will weigh from six to -twelve ounces. The Filipino has suffered but very little change in its -peregrinations throughout two hemispheres. It is not a prolific bearer, -but its fruit commands a very good price in the market. The Biscochuelo -mango is of the East Indian type, although the time and manner of its -introduction into Cuba is somewhat obscure. French refugees from Santo -Domingo may have brought it with them in 1800. It is found mostly in the -hills near Santiago de Cuba, especially around El Caney, and is quite -plentiful in the Santiago markets during the month of July. The fruit is -broadly oval with a clear, orange colored skin and firm flesh, and is -rather more fibrous than the Filipino. Its flavor is sweet and rich, -while its weight varies from eight to fourteen ounces. This variety of -the mango is not closely allied to any of the above mentioned types, but -keeps well, and would seem to be worthy of propagation in other sections -of the Island. - -Something over a half century ago, a wealthy old sea captain of -Cienfuegos, returning from the East Indies, brought twelve mango seeds -that were planted in his garden near Cienfuegos. One of the best of the -fruits thus introduced is called the Chino or Chinese mango, and is -probably the largest seedling fruit in the Island. On account of size it -sells in Havana at from 20 to 40, although it is quite fibrous and -rather lacking in flavor. This mango, through care and selection, has -undergone considerable improvement, so that the Chino today is a very -much better fruit than when brought to Cienfuegos sixty years ago. - -During the early Napoleonic wars, a shipload of choice mangoes and other -tropical fruit from India was sent by the French Government to be -planted in the Island of Martinique. The vessel was captured, however, -by an English man-of-war and carried into Jamaica. From this island and -from Santo Domingo, the French refugees introduced a number of mangoes, -including nearly all those that are now growing in Oriente, while the -manga, so common in Havana Province and Pinar del Rio, is thought to -have been brought from Mexico, although its original home, of course, -was in India and the Malaysian Islands. - -The fancy mangoes of Cuba today have all been imported within recent -years at considerable expense from the Orient, and their superiority -over the Cuba seedlings is due to the patient toil and care spent in -developing and perpetuating choice varieties of the fruit in India. Of -these fancy East Indian mangoes, the Mulgoba probably heads the list in -size, quality and general excellence. The fruit is almost round, -resembling in shape a small or medium sized grape fruit. Its average -weight is about sixteen ounces, although it sometimes reaches -twenty-four or more. When entirely ripe the Mulgoba is cut around the -seed horizontally. The two halves are then twisted in opposite -directions, separating them from the seed, after which they may be eaten -in the inclosing skin, with a spoon. - -The pulp is rich, sweet, of delightful flavor, and absolutely free from -fibre of any kind, which is true of nearly all East Indian mangoes. -Budded trees begin to bear the third or fourth year, yielding perhaps 25 -mangoes. The sixth or seventh year, dependent on soil and care bestowed, -they should bear from three to five hundred. In the tenth year, mangoes -of this variety should average at least a thousand fruit to the tree and -will bring from $1 to $3 a dozen in the fancy fruit stores of the United -States. - -The Bombay is another excellent mango, devoid of fibre. Its weight is -somewhat less than the Mulgoba, ten ounces being a fair average. Another -East Indian variety known as the Alfonse has the size and weight of the -Bombay, although differing in flavor and in its form, which is heart -shaped. Its weight will average ten ounces. - -A close companion of the Alfonse is known as the "Favorite," whose fruit -will average about sixteen ounces. The Amani is another choice East -Indian mango of much smaller size, since it weighs only about six -ounces. The "Senora of Oriente" is one of the varieties of the Filipino -introduced into that Province many years ago, and has proved very -prolific. It is fibreless, of good commercial value, the weight of the -fruit varying from ten to twelve ounces. It is long and carries a very -thin seed; its color is greenish yellow. - -The "Langra" is another importation from India, a large long mango -weighing about two pounds, lemon yellow in color, of good qualities, -with a sub-acid flavor. - -The "Ameere" is similar to the Langra in color and quality, the fruit -weighing only about one pound. - -The "Maller" is very closely allied to both the above mentioned types, -and bears a very excellent fruit with slightly different flavor and -odor. - -The "Sundershaw" is probably the largest of all mangoes, the fruit -varying from two to four pounds in weight, fibreless, with small seed, -but with a flavor not very agreeable. - -All of the above mentioned varieties of mangoes have been introduced -into Cuba at considerable expense and grafted on to seedling trees, -producing the finest mangoes in the world. Owing to their scarcity at -the present time in the western hemisphere, very remunerative prices are -secured even in the markets of Havana. Shipments consigned to the large -hotels and fancy fruit houses in the United States have brought of -course much higher prices. - -In the hands of a culinary artist the mango has many possibilities, both -in the green and the ripe state. From it are made delicious jams, -jellies, pickles, marmalade, mango butter, etc. It is used also, as is -the peach, in making pies, fillings for short cake, salads, chutneys, -etc. - -[Illustration: FRUIT VENDER, HAVANA] - -This handsome tree, especially the variety known as the manga, with its -round symmetrical dome-like form, its rich glossy foliage of leaves that -are never shed and that remain green throughout the entire year, adds -not only to the beauty of the landscape, but furnishes most grateful -shade to all who may seek a rest along the roadside. - -It is more than probable that the Government of Cuba will select the -manga as the natural shade tree for its public highways and automobile -drives. The experiment has been made in some places with excellent -success, and the delicious fruit yielded in such abundance would furnish -refreshing nourishment for the wayfarer during spring and early summer. - -Choice varieties of the mango are comparatively unknown in northern -countries. Unfortunately the first samples that reached northern markets -came from Florida seedlings, and owing to their slightly resinous or -turpentine flavor, did not meet with a very ready acceptance. The rich, -delicious, fibreless pulp of the East Indian mangoes, if once known in -the larger cities of the North, would soon create a furore, that could -only be satisfied by large shipments, and that would command prices -higher than any other fruit grown. - -The mango, too, as a shade tree, or producer of fruit, has one great -advantage over the orange and many other trees. It will thrive in the -soil of rocky hills and in the dry lands whose impervious sub-soil would -bar many other trees. The day is not far distant when the mango will be -not the most popular but also the most profitable fruit produced of any -tree in the West Indies. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -CITRUS FRUITS - - -Although the forests of Cuba abound in several varieties of the citrus -family growing wild within their depths, the fruit was probably brought -from Spain by the early conquerors. The beautiful, glossy-leafed trees -of the wild sour and bitter oranges are met today throughout most of the -West Indies, and are especially plentiful in this island. The seeds have -probably been carried by birds, but the wild fruit, although seldom if -ever sweet, with its deep red color, is not only ornamental to the -forest, but often refreshing to the thirsty individual who may come -across it in his travels. The lime is also found in more or less -abundance, scattered over rocky hillsides, where the beautiful -lemon-like fruit goes to waste for lack of transportation to market. - -Almost everywhere in Cuba are found a few sweet orange trees that were -planted years ago for home consumption, but only with the coming of -Americans have the various varieties been planted systematically, in -groves, and the citrus fruit has assumed its place as a commercial -industry in the Island. - -Homeseekers from Florida found the native oranges of Cuba, all of which -are called "Chinos" or Chinese oranges to distinguish them from the wild -orange of the woods, to be not only sweet but often of superior quality -to those grown either in Florida or California. A prominent -horticulturist, who during the first Government of American Intervention -made a careful study of the citrus fruit of Cuba, stated that the finest -orange he had ever met during his years of experience was found in the -patio or backyard of a residence in the City of Camaguey. The delicious -fruit from that tree he described as an accident or horticultural freak, -since no other like it has been found in the island. - -The rich soils, requiring comparatively little fertilizer, were very -promising to the settlers who came over from Florida in 1900, and many -of these pioneers planted large tracts with choice varieties of the -orange, brought from their own state, and from California. Capital was -interested in many sections, and extensive estates, orange groves -covering hundreds and even thousands of acres, were planted near Bahia -Honda, fifty miles west of Havana. Other large plantings were made on -the Western Railroad at a point known as Herradura, in the province of -Pinar del Rio, 100 miles from the capital. - -Smaller groves were planted in the neighborhood of San Cristobal and -Candelaria, in the same province, some fifty miles from Havana. Other -American colonies set out large groves in the eastern provinces; one at -a station of the Cuban Railroad, in Camaguey, known as Omaha; another -east of the harbor of Nuevitas. Orange groves were planted, too, at the -American colony of La Gloria and at nearby places on the Guanaja Bay of -the north shore. - -One of the largest plantings of citrus fruit was started on the cleared -lands of the Trocha, in the western part of Camaguey, some ten miles -north of Ciega de Avila, while at several different points along the -Cuba Company's Road, orange groves were started during the early days -following its construction. Both the provinces of Santa Clara and -Matanzas, also, came in for more or less extensive citrus fruit culture, -while in the Isle of Pines, during the first years of the present -century, large holdings of cheap lands were purchased by American -promoters, and afterwards sold in small tracts to residents of the -United States who were promised fortunes in orange culture. - -Some of these various ventures in citrus fruit culture, especially those -where intelligence was used in the selection of soils, and sites -commanding convenient transportation facilities, have proved quite -profitable. Many of them, however, far removed from convenient points of -shipment to foreign markets, have failed to yield satisfactory returns -and some have been abandoned to weeds, disease and decay. - -Some of the earliest and best kept groves were started in 1902 and 1903, -along the beautiful Guines carretera, or automobile drive, between -Rancho Volero and the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. -These groves have all reached their maturity and with their close -proximity to the local market of Havana, and easy transportation to the -United States, have been, and are, successful and profitable -investments. - -The first of these covered some 400 acres, all planted in choice -varieties of oranges by Mr. Gray of Cincinnati. In this vicinity too, -close by the Experimental Station, is the Malgoba Estate, the most -extensive and successful nursery, not only in citrus fruit, but for -nearly every other valuable plant, fruit, flower or nut bearing tree -indigenous to or introduced into Cuba. This nursery, as well as the -beautiful, orderly kept grounds of the Experimental Station, will be -found very interesting and perhaps valuable to the visitor from northern -countries. - -Some of the most successful groves in Cuba have been those planted in -what is known as the Guayabal District, located near the Guanajay Road, -in the extreme northwestern corner of the Province of Havana, within 25 -miles, or easy automobile drive, from the capital of the Island. The -oranges produced in this district are all from comparatively small -orchards, well cared for, whose fruit is sold to local purchasers and -conveyed in trucks to the markets of Havana. These oranges are sold in -on the trees, at prices varying from $10 to $20 per thousand. The grape -fruit, or toronja, alone is crated and shipped to the United States, -where the market for some years has been quite satisfactory, especially -when heavy frosts have cut short the yield of Florida groves. - -The great mistake of many of the early investors of capital in citrus -fruits in Cuba was not alone in the selection of the site, but in the -fact that enormous tracts of land were prepared at heavy expense and -groves set out with varieties not only unsuited to the market, but in -tracts so large that protection from disease, and from the tall rank -grasses of the island, was practically impossible. - -There is perhaps no fruit grown for commercial purposes that requires -more constant care and intelligent supervision than the orange and grape -fruit. An orange grove must be kept free from weeds, grass and running -vines; must be frequently cultivated to form a dust mulch; the trees -must be sprayed with insecticides and should be always under the eye of -an expert horticulturist, or orange grower, who will recognize and -combat not alone the scale insect but scores of other diseases that may -attack the trees at any time. These, if neglected for a year, or even -for a few months, will make inroads into the health of a grove that -spells heavy loss if not ultimate ruin. - -In Florida and California these facts, of course, are well known, and -the rules for successful orange culture are carefully followed. But in -the early rush for cheap lands in Cuba, and the selfish desire of the -promoter for huge profits and quick sales, regardless of the welfare of -the purchaser, tracts were purchased and trees were set out with neither -capital nor provision for the care and fertilizer required to keep a -grove thriving, from the time of planting the nursery stock to its -ultimate maturity. - -Experience has proved that the most successful varieties of oranges, -intended for the export trade, are those that bear very early in the -fall, and very late in the spring, avoiding thus all competition with -oranges from Florida and the Bahamas. Of these the early and the late -Valencias, together with the Washington navel, that will easily stand -shipment even to Europe and other distant markets, probably have the -preference among most growers in Cuba. - -The quality of this fruit is excellent, and although the navel orange -among some growers has gotten into ill repute, the fault lies not in the -orange itself, but in the fact that inferior nursery stock was imposed -upon many planters during the first days of the Republic. During the -past six years, first-class well selected and packed fruit has brought -from $2 to $5 per crate, and sometimes more, in the eastern and northern -markets of the United States, while common oranges, sold by the truck -load in the Havana market, bring to the grower from $6 to $12 per -thousand, choice fruit selling at from $10 to $20 per thousand. - -For general commercial purposes, especially for shipment abroad, the -Washington navel or Riverside oranges have probably no superior in Cuba. -They are large in size, weighing from 1-1/2 to 2 pounds each. When -properly grown the skin is thin, with deep red color, and the fruit is -full of juice, as one may judge from the fact that no orange will exceed -a pound in weight and not be juicy. - -The navel orange is seedless and exceedingly sweet, although lacking -somewhat in the spicy flavor found in other varieties. Its season for -ripening in this latitude varies from August to November, and extends -into January. In planting groves with this variety care must be taken -that the buds come from trees producing first-class fruit, since the -type is liable to degenerate, unless the grower selects ideal trees from -which to cut his bud wood. - -Both the Jaffa and the Pineapple orange are popular in Cuba, especially -for the local markets of the island, since they ripen during what is -known as the middle orange season, or from December to March. The -pineapple orange is probably one of the most prolific of the mid-season -type. The fruit is pear-shaped, orange yellow in color, and one of the -most highly flavored oranges grown in Cuba. Its skin is thin. The form -of the tree is upright in growth rather than spreading. - -The Jaffa is a dainty round orange, of medium size, golden yellow in -color, with a thin skin, and pulp tender and juicy. It keeps well and -is, as a rule, a prolific bearer. The tree is upright in shape, compact -and not prone to disease. - -The late Valencia, sometimes called Hart's Tardiff, for commercial -purposes and shipment abroad is recognized as one of the most reliable -varieties grown in the island. It is seldom ripe before the month of -March, and is very much better during May and June. Its commercial -season extends from March to about the first of August, while the fruit -of some trees has been kept in good condition even longer than this. The -tree is thrifty and very prolific, bearing heavy crops every year. The -fruit is of medium size to large, depending on the amount of fertilizer -and care given it, while the color is a bright golden yellow. Good late -Valencia oranges, during the months of May, June and July, have never -sold in the Havana market for less than $15 to $20 per thousand. When -the tree is properly cared for, and the fruit is thoroughly ripe, the -late Valencia is one of the best of the citrus family. - -The Parson Brown is probably the earliest orange of all varieties that -have been imported. It sometimes ripens during the latter part of -August. The fruit is of good size and very sweet, with no particularly -marked flavor. The color of the peel is a greenish yellow, and it may be -eaten even before the yellow color appears. Its early appearance on the -market is the only thing, perhaps, that recommends it for commercial -purposes. - -In 1915 some small plantings were made in Havana Province of an orange -brought from Florida, known as the Lu Gim Gong. The principal merit of -this orange is said to be in its keeping quality on the tree. The fruit, -we are told, will hang on the branches in excellent edible condition -from one year to another. If this reputation can be maintained in Cuba, -oranges for the local market may be had all the year round. Sufficient -time has not elapsed however, since the first trees were brought into -the island, to pass judgment on its merits or its commercial value. - -Although up to the inauguration of the Republic in 1902, the grape -fruit, known in Cuba as the toronja, was little valued, the people of -Cuba have gradually acquired a fondness for it, especially with the -desayuno or early morning coffee. Owing to this fact there is a rapidly -growing local demand for the toronja that promises quite a profitable -home market for this really excellent fruit. The grape fruit of Cuba, -although but little attention has been given to the improvement of -varieties, has been favored in some way by the climate itself, and that -of the entire Island, including the Isle of Pines, is very much sweeter -and juicier than that grown in the United States. - -The cultivation of grape fruit in Cuba, especially in the Isle of Pines, -has been very successful as far as the production of a high-grade fruit -is concerned. The trees are prolific and the crop never fails. -Unfortunately, grape fruit shipped from Cuba to the United States has -not always found a profitable market, and there have been seasons when -the crop became an absolute loss, since the demand abroad was not -sufficient to pay the transportation to northern markets. As the taste -for grape fruit grows, it is possible that this occasional glutting of -the market may become a thing of the past, but at the present time many -of the groves of grape fruit in Cuba are being budded with oranges. This -is true also of lemon trees. - -Limes, as before stated, are quite abundant in some parts of the Island, -growing wild in the forests of hilly sections. The recent demand for -citric acid would suggest that the establishment of a plant for its -manufacture might solve the problem of enormous quantities of citrus -fruit that must go to waste every year unless some method of utilizing -it is discovered in the locality where found. - -There are over 20,000 acres today in this republic on which citrus fruit -is grown. The total value of the estates is estimated at about fifteen -millions of dollars, but with each year it becomes more apparent that -the area of really profitable citrus culture should be limited to a -radius of not more than one hundred miles from some port whence regular -shipments can be made to the United States. This is an essential feature -of the citrus fruit industry. Its disregard means failure. - -The wild varieties of the orange, both the bitter and the sour, although -too isolated and scattered for commercial purposes, are often a godsend -to the prospector in the forest covered mountains, since the juice of -the sour orange mixed with a little water and sugar makes a very -pleasant drink. The wild trees themselves, with their symmetrical -trunks, dark glossy evergreen leaves, white, fragrant flowers, and deep -golden red fruit, that hangs on the tree for months after maturity, -furnish a very attractive sight to the traveler, as well as a safe -indication of the fact that in Cuba the citrus fruit, if not indigenous -to the soil, has found a natural home. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -BANANAS, PINEAPPLES AND OTHER FRUITS - - -The banana is of East Indian origin, but of an antiquity so great that -man has no record of its appearance on earth as an edible fruit, nor can -any variety of the plant be found today growing wild. The importance of -the banana as a source of food for the human race in all warm countries -of low altitude is probably equaled by no other plant, owing to the fact -that a greater amount of nourishment can be secured from an acre of -bananas than from any other product of the soil. - -The banana has accompanied man into all parts of the tropical world, and -for the natives at least still remains the one unfailing staff of life. -The bulb once placed in moist fertile earth will continue to propagate -itself and to produce fruit indefinitely, even without care of any kind, -although for commercial purposes it may be improved and its -productiveness increased through selection and cultivation. - -Few if any plants that nature has given us can be utilized in so many -ways as the banana. The fruit when green, and before the development of -its saccharine matter takes place, consists largely of starch and -gluten, furnishing a splendid substitute, either boiled or baked, for -the potato. Cut into thin slices, and fried in hot oil or lard, it -becomes quite as palatable as the Saratoga chips of the United States. -When baked in an oven and mashed with butter or sauce, it is not a bad -substitute for the potato, and far more nourishing. - -When sun-dried and finely ground, a splendid highly nutritious -banana-flour is produced, that is not only pleasant to the taste, but -according to the report of physicians far more easily digested and -assimilated than is the flour of wheat or corn. From good banana flour, -either bread, crackers, griddle cakes or fancy pastry may be made, that -would be relished on any table. - -The green fruit, when cut into small cubes, toasted and mixed with a -little mocha coffee to give it flavor, offers the best substitute for -that beverage that has been found up to the present time. When -scientifically treated with sugar, the semi-ripe fruit with the addition -of flavoring extracts may be converted into very good imitations of -dried figs, prunes and others forms of preserves, that are not only -healthful and palatable, but are nutritious, and may well serve as an -important contribution to the food products of the world. - -Interesting and important experiments with banana-flour and the various -products of both the ripe and the green fruit were made in Camaguey some -years ago. The results were exceedingly satisfactory, but with the death -of the inventor this promising industry was permitted to drop into -disuse. Had Cuba been able to command the use of, or fall back on this -splendid substitute for wheat flour, there would have been no bread -famine in the island, such as occurred in the spring of 1918, and the -Republic would have been independent of outside assistance. - -Bananas for commercial purposes, or rather for export, have been grown -for many years in the eastern end of the Island, especially in the -neighborhood of Nipe Bay, where deep, rich soil, combined with the heavy -rainfall of summer, results in rapid growth and full development of the -fruit. The banana grown for shipment to the United States is known in -Cuba as the Johnson. There are several types of this, but all resemble -closely the bananas of Costa Rica and other Central American countries, -where the United Fruit Company controls the trade. Owing to the fact -that this Company owns its own groves in Central America, conveniently -located for loading its ships, the United States is supplied today -almost entirely from that section, and the exportation of bananas from -Cuba has been materially reduced. - -Banana lands, too, are almost invariably well adapted to the growing of -sugar cane, hence the great fields of Nipe Bay, and that part of Oriente -once devoted to the cultivation of bananas, were eagerly sought by the -sugar companies of the Island, and most of the territory converted into -big sugar cane plantations. - -There are probably twenty varieties of bananas cultivated in different -parts of Cuba. Some twelve or more of these may be seen growing at the -Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. The variety preferred for -local consumption and always in constant demand is the large cooking -bananas, known in the United States as the plantain. This banana is not -eaten in its natural state, but when cooked, either green or ripe, it -finds a place on every table in Cuba. - -The plant is tall and the fruit at least twice as long as that of the -ordinary banana of commerce. It is not as prolific as other varieties, -seldom bearing more than 30 or 40 to the stem, but it is found on every -farm on the Island and is relied on as a source of food, even more than -is the potato. The bunches under normal conditions command in the market -prices varying from 20 to 60, dependent upon the number of "hands" or -bananas to the stalk. - -The banana plant reaches a height of twelve or fifteen feet and is -reproduced from the sucker or offshoot of the original bulb. About 400 -hills are set out to the acre. In twelve months the first comes to -maturity, producing a single bunch of fruit, whose price, dependent on -variety and size, varied from 20 to $1. Each main stalk during the year -sends up six or eight suckers, that are used to increase the acreage as -desired. Bananas for export are grown profitably only on or near the -edge of deep water harbors, where transportation to northern markets is -assured. - -A description of all of the many varieties of the banana grown in Cuba -would be perhaps superfluous. The most commonly cultivated for the -table, and eaten without cooking, is known as the Manzana or Apple -Banana. Its flavor may suggest the apple, although the choice of name is -probably accidental. The bunch is rather small, and the fruit is bright -yellow, only about one-half the length of the banana of commerce, and -stands out more or less horizontally from the stem on which it grows. -The average price of these when found in the market is about 35 per -bunch. - -Some three or four varieties of the red banana are grown in Cuba, and -while quite hardy and easily cultivated they are not prized in the -Indies as in the United States. The dwarf banana, or Platano Enano, has -a very pleasant flavor, not unlike that of the Johnson, or banana of -commerce, and may be found in almost every garden in the Island. The -plant reaches a height of only five or six feet, and the bunches of -fruit are long and heavy, filled almost to the tip, and often supported -by a forked stock, caught under the neck of the stalk so that the weight -of the fruit will not break or pull over the plant itself. - -Another very choice banana is called the "Platano Datil," or date -banana. The stalks are relatively small and hold but little fruit in -comparison with other varieties, seldom having more than two or three -hands to the bunch. The fruit itself is from two and a half to three -inches in length, round and plump, with a thin skin that can be slipped -off, like a glove, but with a flavor that is probably the most delicate -and delicious of the whole Musa family. - -Approximately 125,000,000 pounds of bananas are exported from the Island -each year, valued under normal conditions at a little over a million -dollars. The great bulk of bananas grown in Cuba are for domestic -consumption. - -Agriculture, although rapidly assuming as it should the dignity of a -science, still has its caprices or apparent contradictions. And so it -happens that the choicest flavored and highest priced bananas of the -world are grown in the waterworn pockets of almost barren dog-teethed -rocks--"los dientes de perro" of the extreme eastern end of Cuba, just -back of Cape Maysi. - -Here the coast rises from sea level in a series of four or five steps or -comparatively flat plateaux, each some four or five hundred feet above -the other, until an altitude of two thousand feet is reached. The rocks -are soft limestone and in the millions of waterworn pockets, the leaves -and dust of the forest jungle have left their deposit for ages. In this -shallow soil bananas not only grow luxuriously but have a remarkably -delicate and delicious flavor, essentially their own. - -The secret of this wondrous growth and par excellence however, lies not -alone in the rocky soil, but in the fact that generous nature at this -point, contributes an abundant shower of rain almost every day in the -year. The low, heavily waterladen clouds of the West Indian seas, driven -by easterly winds strike this series of table lands, one rising above -the other, and shower the lands with daily rains. Hence it is that while -the average rainfall of Cuba is 54 inches, this series of table land of -Cape Maysi has an annual rainfall of 125 inches. - -The result is that in spite of difficult access and a cultivation -confined to the hoe, millions of bunches of choice bananas are grown and -shipped from the mouth of the Little Yumuri every year. United Fruit -steamers on their way north from South and Central American banana -fields stop at the above landing to take on a top dressing of fancy -fruit. - -Owing to the fact that the banana has practically no season, or rather -that it may bear in any month, four suckers of varying ages are set out -in each hill, from which four bunches of fruit, some three months apart, -will result during the year. With four hundred stands or hills to the -acre, the annual yield should be, approximately 1,600 bunches, and -whether the crop is disposed of in the local markets or converted into -banana flour, the growing of bananas may be made one of the important -industries of Cuba. - -Patient toil and judicious selection have made the modern pineapple one -of our most delightful of all fruits, in addition to which, in those -countries not too far removed from markets, it has assumed an important -place as a commercial industry. The fruit of the pineapple, like that of -the strawberry, is a strange compound or consolidation of hundreds of -little fruits, in one symmetrical cone, tinted when ripe with shades -varying from greenish yellow to golden red or orange. Like the -strawberry, it is a ground fruit that must be planted and cultivated -along the lines that bring best results with ordinary field crops. - -Pineapples have been grown in Cuba since the beginning of the Spanish -occupation, perhaps even before, although no mention is made of them as -being cultivated by the Indians. As a commercial product the growing of -the pineapple on a large scale began during the first Government of -Intervention, although they were shipped abroad to some extent before -that time. In point of money value, the industry ranks next to that of -the citrus fruit. Although up to the present time most of the pineapples -intended for export are grown within fifty miles of the city of Havana, -over a million crates are annually shipped to the United States. - -Pineapples may be grown on any rich soil in Cuba, and are considered one -of the staple crops. The slips or offshoots from the parent plant are -set out in long ridges some four feet apart, with intervening spaces -averaging a foot. These produce fruit in one year from planting, and -from each original stalk an average of six suckers may be taken for -planting in other beds, so that with a very small start the acreage may -be easily increased five or six-fold each year. - -About 8,000 plants are considered sufficient for an acre of ground; and -the cost of them when purchased averages about $30 per acre, while the -preparation of the land for pineapple culture will amount to somewhat -more. The net returns under favorable circumstances will vary from $75 -to $100. The average net profit from pineapples grown near Artemisia and -Campo Florida is said to be about $50 per acre. The high price of sugar, -since the beginning of the European War, has, however, caused much of -the former pineapple acreage to be converted into cane fields. - -The profit derived from pineapple culture, as in all fruits or -vegetables of a perishable nature, depends very largely upon the -shipping facilities of the locality selected. Pineapples cannot long be -held on the wharf waiting for either trains or steamers. In this -connection it may be mentioned that the daily ferry between Key West and -Havana, by which freight cars can be loaded in the fields and shipped to -any city in the United States without breaking bulk, has been very -beneficial to growers. - -The Red Spanish, owing to its excellent shipping qualities, is preferred -to all others for export, although many other varieties, such as the -"Pina blanca" or sugarloaf, which will not stand shipment abroad, are -used for local consumption and bring an average price of ten cents -retail throughout the year. - -The largest pines grown for commercial purposes include the Smooth -Cayenne, a beautiful fruit, varying in weight from five to fifteen -pounds. Unfortunate is he who may have partaken of the rich sweet, juicy -Sugar Loaf of Cuba, since it will discourage his fondness for the Smooth -Cayenne, the much advertised Honolulu and other cone shaped products, -whose flavor is not in keeping with their appearance. - -So delicious in flavor is the sugar loaf pine in comparison with those -large varieties suited only for canning or cooking purposes, that the -latter have never become sufficiently popular in Cuba to induce -cultivation. In the Isle of Pines, however, as well as in Florida, the -smooth Cayenne is grown and shipped to the nondiscriminating who live -abroad. With care in packing, however, the sugarloaf may reach northern -markets. - -The pineapple more than any other fruit appeals to the canning industry, -especially in Cuba, where hundreds of thousands that have ripened too -late for the northern markets are left to rot in the fields. There are -no better pineapples grown in the world than in the Island of Cuba, and -the excess or overproduction of the fruit within the next few years will -undoubtedly be handled by properly equipped canning factories and thus -add another industry to the revenues of the Island. - -The Anon is a small shapely tree seldom growing over twenty feet in -height and common throughout all Cuba. The fruit of the Anon, sometimes -called the sugar-apple, resembles a small round greenish white cone, -about the size of the ordinary apple. Its delightful pulp suggests a -mixture of thick sweetened cream, adhering to smooth black sunflower -seeds. Although delicious to eat fresh from the tree, and very useful in -making ices, it does not readily endure shipment, and is thus confined -commercially to the local markets of the larger cities in Cuba. - -The Chirimoya, belonging to the same family, is undoubtedly the queen of -the Anones. It is larger than the Anon, reaching the size of an ordinary -grape-fruit. Its pulp is white, soft and very delicate, while the skin, -unlike the Anon, is smooth, yellowish in color, with a blush of red. - -The Zapote, Nispero or Sapodilla, as it is variously termed, is a -beautiful ornamental tree of the forest, indigenous to tropical America -and the West Indies. The tree, with its trim shapely trunk and branches, -its crisp, dark green foliage that never fails, adds greatly to the -beauty of parks and lawns. The wood is hard, reddish and very durable. -From the trunk exudes chicle gum, used in the United States for making -chewing-gum. In England, since it is more plastic than caoutchouc, and -more elastic than gutta-percha, it is employed as an adulterant to these -products. The fruit in size and color resembles somewhat a small russet -apple. It has a delightfully sweet juicy pulp, not unlike a persimmon -touched with frost. The small glossy seeds are easily removed, and the -fruit is very refreshing when left on ice, or in the early morning -hours. Only with extreme care in packing could zapotes, like many other -fruits of Cuba, stand shipment to foreign countries. - -The Tamarind is a tall, beautiful tree frequently 70 to 80 feet in -height, with a soft, delicate, locust-like foliage, and purplish or -orange veined flowers in terminal clusters. The Tamarind probably -originated in Abyssinia or some other part of eastern tropical Africa, -but at the present time it is scattered throughout the entire tropical -world, and is very common in Cuba. There is perhaps no tree known whose -fruit furnishes a more refreshing fruit than the Tamarind. It is said to -have been brought to Cuba from Southern Europe more than a century ago, -whence it has since been scattered throughout the forest, through the -medium of birds. From its branches, after the flowers have disappeared, -hang clusters of brown colored, bean-like brittle pods. These when ripe -are filled with a sweet yet pleasantly acid pulp, which when mixed with -water makes a refreshing, slightly laxative and healthful drink. - -The Mamey Colorado is another giant tree of the forest, belonging to the -Sapodilla family and indigenous to tropical America. Its fruit is oval -in form, some six or eight inches in length, covered with a tough brown -skin, and filled with a rich peculiar dark red pulp, inclosing a long, -smooth, coffee-colored seed, that is easily separated from the edible -part of the fruit. In consistency and flavor, it suggests slightly a -well-made pumpkin pie. Those unaccustomed to the fruit would probably -find it unpleasantly rich. The yellow or Mamey de Santo Domingo is a -true Mamey, entirely different from the Mamey Colorado. The tree is -large, tall and quite common in the forests of the Island. Its fruit is -round, russet yellow in color and equivalent to a large grapefruit. It -is used only as a preserve, and in that capacity serves a useful -purpose. - -The Guava, or Guayaba, as it is known in Spanish countries, springs up -unwanted in almost every field of Cuba. Its nature is that of a shrub, -spreading out with little form or symmetry. If permitted to propagate -itself, it soon becomes a pest difficult to eradicate. A few choice -varieties, one of which is known as the Pear Guava, imported from Peru, -are very palatable. The meat of the latter is white, rather juicy and -free from seeds. The common Guayaba of the field, while sometimes eaten -raw, is always in demand for jellies, Guayaba paste and marmalades, -which have a ready sale in Cuba and in the United States and are very -popular in the latter country. Animals of all kinds, especially pigs and -horses, are very fond of it. - -The Mamoncillo is another beautiful forest tree indigenous to Cuba, that -spreads out like a giant live-oak or mammoth apple tree. Its round, -russet green fruit hangs from every branch, and is refreshing to the -traveler who stops a moment beneath its shade. Its slightly acid pulp -covers a rather large round seed, the whole resembling a tough skinned -plum, although the tree belongs to an entirely distinct family. - -Figs of all varieties, green, black and yellow, may be found in almost -every garden in Cuba. No effort has been made to preserve them for -commercial purposes, but when ripe they are very refreshing taken with -"desayuno" or the early morning meal. - -The Aguacate is another valuable product of the Caribbean Basin, and -seems to be indigenous to nearly all its shores, including Mexico and -Central and South America. It extended south along the Pacific Coast -also, as far as Peru, where the Spanish conquerors found it in use among -the people of the Incas. Oviedo, in his reports to Charles I of Spain in -1526, stated that he had found this peculiar fruit on the Caribbean -shores of both South and Central America. - -It was also indigenous to Mexico, where the Aztecs called it the -Ahuacatl, whence came the Spanish name of Aguacate, by which it is known -in Cuba. The name Avocado has been adopted by the Department of -Agriculture of the United States, in order to avoid the confusion -resulting from the many local names under which this fruit is known in -various countries. - -The aguacate of Cuba is a tall handsome tree of the forest, scattered -more or less throughout all portions of the Island. It frequently -reaches a height of 70 or 80 feet, and although of an open spreading -nature, nevertheless furnishes grateful shade. There are many types, -although systematic efforts to classify them botanically have not been -very successful. The distinction between them usually made is dependent -largely upon the shape of the fruit or its color. - -The most common variety in Cuba is probably the long, pear-shaped -aguacate, although trees bearing round and oblong fruit are often met, -especially where they have been planted in gardens or orchards. In color -the fruit is usually bright green, or greenish red. Some types again -will vary from greenish red to a reddish purple. - -The pear shaped aguacates vary in length from five to ten inches, and -will average probably a pound and a half in weight. The round or oblong -types are usually green in color, with a diameter of five or six inches. -The skin is about 1/16th of an inch in thickness, smooth and bright, and -peels freely from the inclosed meat. The meat is rather difficult to -describe since it resembles in flavor and texture no other edible fruit -known. Its color is golden yellow, resembling both in consistency and -shade, rich, cold butter, and is used sometimes as a substitute for this -product of the dairy. Close to the skin the meat has a slightly greenish -tinge. It is very rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor, that -evades all description. - -The aguacate may be eaten just as it comes from its thin shell-like -covering. In the center of the fruit is a large hard seed some two and a -half inches in diameter. This never adheres to the pulp, and may be -lifted out readily so that the fruit can be eaten with a spoon. - -The aguacate forms the finest salad in the world. When used for this -purpose the pocket from which the seed was removed is usually filled -with broken ice, over which is poured a dressing of salt, vinegar and -mustard or pepper, as fancy may happen to dictate. When filled with -small cubes of sugar loaf pineapple and mayonnaise dressing, you have a -"salad divine." When taken this way, the aguacate is cut in half, the -shell-like covering forming the bowl from which it is eaten. Owing to -its content of oil, and other nutritious elements, the aguacate will -probably go further towards sustaining life and producing energy than -any other fruit known. It is also excellent when removed from the peel, -cut into cubes and eaten in soup. - -The tree is a prolific bearer, the fruit ripening during the months of -July to October inclusive. Other varieties recently introduced come into -bearing in October and remain in fruit until January, some occasionally -holding over until the month of March. - -In the development and improvement of the aguacate, it is the aim of the -horticulturist to lengthen the bearing period as much as possible, and -through selection to eliminate any space between the pulp and the seed; -for the latter, if loose, will often bruise the fruit in handling and -shipping. Since the aguacate, like most fruit trees, is not true to -seed, this work can be accomplished only through grafting, and although -successful, requires care and experience. The ordinary aguacate of the -forest bears the fourth or fifth year from the seed, while the grafted -varieties will bear the third year. A tree of the latter type, when five -years of age, will bear from one hundred to five hundred aguacates, that -will average two pounds in weight, and will sell in the fruit markets -of the United States at from $1 to $3 a dozen. - -The tree may be grown on any well drained land and under conditions -similar to those of the mango. On hillsides that have sufficient depth -of soil, it does very well, and as the demand for fancy fruit in the -palatial hotels of the United States increases, the growing of aguacates -for commercial purposes will undoubtedly be undertaken in Cuba or a -still larger scale. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -GRAPES, CACAO, AND VANILLA - - -In spite of the fact that the Grape is indigenous to Cuba, prohibitory -laws on the part of Spain discouraged its culture in all of her -colonies, so that vine culture in the Island has had no opportunity to -thrive. The few isolated specimens found occasionally in gardens have -produced excellent fruit, especially in the neighborhood of Guantanamo, -where French refugees from Santo Domingo introduced a few plants in the -beginning of the 19th century. - -Realizing the importance of grape culture in any country where possible, -Dr. Calvino, Director of the Government Experiment Station, in the first -days of his administration, sent into the forests of Cuba for healthy -specimens of the wild grape, indigenous to the country, known as the -"Uva Cimarron." These were brought to the Station and set out in soil -especially prepared. After less than a year had elapsed, four or five -lanes, several hundred feet in length, for which trellises of wire have -been provided, showed wonderful growth. This native sour grape has -simply covered the supports with a wilderness of leaves, vines and -fruit. - -Correspondence with Professor Munson of Texas, one of the most noted -grape specialists of the United States, resulted in bringing to Cuba a -dozen or more varieties of choice grapes from that section. These, -together with others brought from France, Spain and other European -countries, have been planted at the Station, where, in spite of the -change of climate and conditions, they seem to thrive. The Director is -planning to bud the wild stock of the Cuban grape with all of these -choice imported varieties, in order to ascertain which may give the -best results in this country. - -Several acres are devoted to this experimental grape field and have been -supplied with convenient trellises and facilities for irrigation. The -Director and those interested with him are much encouraged with the -present stage of the experiment and have great confidence in their -ability to establish successfully in Cuba many of the choice grapes of -the world, although the medium of the vigorous Cimarron grape of the -island. If these experiments prove successful, there is no reason why -many of the hillsides of this country should not be converted into -immense vineyards, and the cultivation of grapes become a prominent and -permanent source of agricultural wealth. - -Although intoxication among the inhabitants of Cuba is almost unknown, -the drinking of wine, as in all other Latin American countries, has been -a custom from time immemorial and the annual importation of wine, most -of which comes from Spain, approximates $2,500,000 a year. Should the -culture of grapes in Cuba meet with the success expected, there is no -reason why this industry, together with that of wine making, might not -be carried on in connection with coffee growing in the mountains, since -the soils of the fertile hills throughout the Island are adapted to the -culture of both at the same time. - -In the matter of popular beverages it is somewhat interesting to note -that in each hemisphere, nature provided trees of the forest, the fruit -of which for countless centuries has furnished to man beverages that -today are almost as essential as food. In fact the Cacao of the western -hemisphere is a very nutritious food and drink at the same time. While -coffee is indigenous to Arabia and Abyssinia, whence the trees have been -carried into nearly all parts of the tropical world, cacao, on the other -hand, was indigenous to the West Indies, to Mexico, Central America and -probably to all countries bordering on the Caribbean. The shores of the -latter great sea or basin of the ocean, with their rich warm valleys -formed by the rivers tributary to it, are the natural home of the cacoa, -botanically known as Theobroma, or food of the gods. - -When Cortez forced himself as an unwelcome guest upon Montezuma, in the -first quarter of the sixteenth century, he found a delicious drink -called caca-huatl, made by the Aztecs from the seeds of this really -marvellous plant. The taste of chocolate is so delicate and so palatable -that fondness for the drink does not have to be acquired in any country. -From the West Indies cacao, or cocoa beans, were carried to Spain and -the cultivation of the plant was introduced into the warmer latitudes of -the eastern hemisphere. The government of Spain, with its short-sighted -greed of those days, succeeded in keeping the manufacture of this drink -more or less secret from the outside world, and for chocolate demanded -prices so high that only the rich could afford to buy it, retarding thus -its general use in Europe for nearly a century. - -The consumption of chocolate today, both as a beverage and as a food, -especially in the manufacture of confections, has assumed throughout the -world very large proportions. Approximately 150,000,000 pounds of -chocolate and cocoa produced from the cacao trees of the Caribbean basin -are consumed in civilized countries, while the demand for the beans is -increasing by rapid bounds every year. - -There is perhaps no form of nutritious food more condensed and complete -than that of the better grade of chocolate. Nine-tenths of the content -of this wonderful bean are assimilated by the system, hence its value -not only to travelers but also to armies and forces in the field, who -demand condensed foods like chocolate, with a large amount of -nourishment in a very small bulk. An analysis of cacao yields of -carbohydrates, 37%; of fat, 29%; and of protein, 22%. In the better -grades of chocolate, used for both food and drink, there is practically -no waste. - -From the above it may be readily seen that the cultivation of cacao, -from which the chocolate and cocoa of commerce are derived, has become -one of the standard agricultural industries of the world, and one which -for the future gives great promise, since the demand for the cacao beans -is increasing rapidly, as is also the market price. - -The Central American republics bordering on the Caribbean, as well as -the northern coast of Colombia and Venezuela, are the greatest producers -of cacao, while Trinidad, Cuba and other islands of the West Indies, -produce considerable amounts. - -The culture of cacao, like that of coffee and citrus fruits, is a -healthful and profitable employment, and especially agreeable for those -fond of life in the open, and who enjoy living in the mountains and -valleys that slope toward the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. Its -cultivation may be carried on where conditions are favorable, in company -with coffee, since while the latter is grown on the fertile foothills -and mountain sides, cacao is at its best in the sheltered valleys of the -forest. Cacao demands a rich, deep, moist soil, well drained, since the -roots of the tree will not tolerate standing water, and the subsoil, if -not pervious, must lie at least six feet below the surface. - -The forest-covered valleys of tropical Cuba, receiving as they do the -washings of the hillsides, upon which decayed vegetable matter has -accumulated during centuries, furnish ideal locations for cacao. In -preparing for the cultivation of the plant, all underbrush is removed, -leaving only the tall stately trees, that although giving the required -shade will still admit some sunlight to the soil below; otherwise the -cacao, reaching up for the light, assumes a tall slender growth, -inconvenient in gathering the crop. Trees for commercial purposes should -not attain a height of more than 25 or 30 feet, the branches leaving -the trunk six or eight feet from the ground. They are planted as a rule -from 12 to 15 feet apart, which is equivalent to from 200 to 300 trees -per acre. - -There are several varieties of the cacao, although that in common use in -Cuba is known as the Cacao Criolla, and is not subject to diseases as -are some of the other varieties grown in South America. The fruit is an -elongated pod of cucumber shape, with a rough corrugated skin, hanging -close to the trunk and branches. The side facing the sun carries shades -of red and yellow that produce a rather startling color effect when -first seen in the forest. - -The cacao has two major crops each year. The pods when ripe are removed -from the trees with a hooked pruning knife attached to a bamboo pole, -and collected into piles, sometimes covered with earth, where they -undergo a period of fermentation lasting five or six days. After this -the seeds are removed from the pods and carefully dried for the market. -In the days of Montezuma such was the value of the cacao seeds or beans -that they took the place of money or small change in adjusting -purchases, and they are recognized even today among the Indians in -representation of values. In the cacao factories, the oil of the bean, -which represents 50% of its weight, is extracted and known to the trade -as cocoa butter. The residue, known as the cacao nib, is ground and -forms the chocolate and cocoa of commerce. Even the hulls are used to -make a low grade of cocoa known as "La Miserable." - -The tree comes into bearing the fourth year after planting and attains -its maturity in about twelve years, with a life extending over a half a -century or more. The yield per tree varies greatly, or from four to -twelve pounds annually, with an average, under favorable conditions, or -five or six pounds. This extreme range in the productivity of cacao is -dependent almost entirely on the fertility of the soil, since the plant -is greedy in its demand for nourishment, and it quickly responds to the -generous use of fertilizer. In the ordinary sense of the term no -cultivation whatever is given to the cacao tree, since it is truly -speaking a denizen of the forest, doing better when the soil above its -roots is never disturbed, although a mulch of leaves to maintain the -moisture is very beneficial. Weeds and brush that may appear are removed -with a machete. - -The successful culture of cacao requires experience and care, especially -during the period of fermentation through which the pods must pass -before the removal of the seeds. This latter work is done usually by -women and children, hence, as in the case of coffee, cacao in many -senses of the word is well adapted to colonies and settlements composed -of families who have grouped together and made permanent homes in the -mountains and valleys that border on the Caribbean and the Gulf. - -Cuba is exporting at the present time, mostly from the province of -Oriente, approximately two and a half million pounds of cacao, valued at -$15.20 per hundred pounds, or $380,000. The commodity is staple and the -demand at good prices constant, while the cacao once prepared for market -does not deteriorate or suffer loss if sale is delayed, all of which is -to the advantage of the grower. - -The north shores of the Province of Pinar del Rio, swept by the -northeast trade winds throughout the entire year, furnish in many places -conditions most favorable to the culture of cacao and coffee. The same -is true of southeastern Santa Clara, of the northern slopes of the -Sierra de Cubitas and of the coasts of Oriente from the Bay of Nipe on -the north, clear around to Cabo Cruz on the southwest. - -Both in nature and in its domestic use, cacao and the vanilla bean have -always been more or less closely associated. Both are denizens of the -deep forest, and are indigenous to the two Americas from Mexico to Peru. -The Aztecs of Anhuac, the Mayas of Central America, and the subjects of -the Incas, further south, added the delicate flavor of the vanilla to -their chocolate, made from the beans of the caca-huatl, from which the -name of cacao was taken. This association of vanilla with chocolate and -other confectioneries has continued into modern times. - -The so-called vanilla bean is not, as the name would indicate, of the -legume family, but is an orchid, climbing the trunks of trees that grow -on the rich soils of tropical forests. The vine may be germinated from -seed planted in leaf mold at the base of the tree, but where cultivated -it is propagated from cuttings and must have the shade of trees in order -to thrive, climbing the trunks to a height of 20 to 30 feet, by means of -fibrous roots that come from nodes along its length. - -The leaves are bright green, long and fleshy; the flowers are white and -usually fragrant, having eccentric forms peculiar to the orchid family. -The pods, from six to nine inches in length, are cylindrical and some -three-eighths of an inch in thickness. The vine begins to bear in the -third year from planting and will continue to do so for thirty to forty -years with but little care or culture. The pods are gathered before they -are fully ripe, dried in the shade and "sweated" or fermented in order -to develop and fix the delightful aroma for which they are famous. - -It is during this period of fermentation that the bean requires careful -watching and expert knowledge in order that the process of sweating may -be perfect, since upon this chemical change in the texture of the beans -the value of the product really depends. After fermentation the pods are -carefully dried, tied in small bundles and made ready for market or -export. They will keep indefinitely and the high prices secured for very -small bulk renders them an attractive crop to handle. - -The vanilla of commerce is not only used to flavor chocolate, sweetmeats -and liquors, but also enters into the composition of many perfumes, -owing to an aromatic alkaloid that exudes from and crystallizes on the -outer coating of the best quality beans. These under normal conditions -are worth from $12 to $16 per pound. - -Owing perhaps to the lack of experimental initiative, the vanilla bean, -although at home in the heavy forests of Cuba, with the exception of a -few instances has never attracted the attention of those who are in a -position to grow and care for this valuable plant. In conjunction with -cacao, coffee, or any industry carried on in the rich forest-covered -mountain valleys of the Island, there is no reason why the culture of -the vanilla bean should not be made very profitable. - -Aside from the removal of the beans from the vine, the only effort -required is that of assisting nature in the fertilization of the -flowers, which in the forest, of course, is carried on by insects, but -for commercial purposes, in order to insure a large crop of beans, it is -well to see that each flower is fertilized by shaking a little of the -pollen upon the stamens. This is readily done with the use of a light -bamboo ladder that may be carried from tree to tree. - -Indians from the eastern forests of Mexico, between Vera Cruz and -Tampico, would readily come to Cuba to teach the best methods of curing -or take charge of the treatment of the beans after picking, and thus -insure the success of a very profitable crop, which up to the present -has received practically no attention. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -VEGETABLE GROWING - - -With the advent of the American colonists in 1900, truck gardening -sprang rapidly into prominence in Cuba until today it forms an important -part of the small farmer's revenue. Most of the well-known vegetables of -the United States are grown here, not only for local markets, but for -shipment abroad. They are usually planted at the close of the rainy -season in October or November, and are brought to maturity in time to -reach the North during winter and early spring, when high prices -prevail. - -Those vegetables from which the best results have been obtained are -early potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers, okra, white squash, -and string beans. These may be grown in the rich soils of any part of -the Island, but are only profitable when cultivated close to railroads -or within easy reach of steamship lines having daily sailings from -Havana. Profits depend on location, soil, water supply, intelligent -cultivation and success in reaching markets in which there is a demand -for the product. - -The long belt of land lying just south of the Organ Mountains of Pinar -del Rio, extending from east to west throughout the province, furnishes -the largest tract for vegetable growing in Cuba. The conditions in this -section are exceptionally favorable to that industry. Close to the base -of the mountain range, the surface is rather rolling, but soon slopes -away into the level prairies extending out toward the Caribbean. The -soil as a rule is a dark grey sandy loam, easily worked at all seasons, -and responds quickly to the use of fertilizers and to cultivation. - -Numerous small streams that have their origin back in the mountains, -furnish excellent natural drainage, and some of them can easily be used -for irrigating purposes, if necessary, in the dry months of February and -March. The Western Railway of Havana runs through the entire length of -the vegetable belt, reinforced by a splendid automobile drive, more or -less parallel, connecting the further extremity of Pinar del Rio with -the markets and wharves of Havana. - -These lands are very productive, and under intelligent management, -especially when irrigation can be employed, may be rendered exceedingly -profitable, through the cultivation of vegetables. In some sections, the -semi-vuelta or Partido tobacco fields monopolize the use of the land -during the fall months, but there are nevertheless hundreds of thousands -of acres in this district that if properly cultivated, and conducted in -connection with canning plants, would yield large revenues to the -Island. - -Nearly all seed is brought from the United States, fresh, each year, and -the planting season for some crops begins in September, extending -through the entire winter, especially where irrigation or fortunate -rains furnish a sufficient amount of moisture to carry the crop through -the dry months of early spring. - -The methods employed in vegetable growing are identical with those of -the United States, and the results are practically the same, aside from -the one important fact that all fall grown vegetables, or those that may -be placed on the markets of large cities in the United States between -January and April, bring, as a rule, very high prices. - -Later in the spring the vegetable gardens of Florida and the Gulf States -come into competition, causing the growers of the Island gradually to -yield to those of sections further north. It is at this time, or in the -late spring, that the canning industry could take care of the great -surplus of vegetables that for any reason might fail to find a -profitable market abroad. Well equipped plants could handle this crop -with great benefit both to the vegetable growers and the canners. - -Irish potatoes, planted in the fall so that the crop may be brought to -maturity in March, have proven very successful throughout this section, -as well as in the beautiful Guines Valley, southeast of Havana. The -potato growers of Cuba have experimented with nearly all of the standard -varieties of the United States and it is rather difficult to determine -which has given the best results. - -The Early Rose variety of Irish potato is quite a favorite in Cuba, -owing to its rapid growth and productivity. Later potatoes, while -finding a sale perhaps in the local market, are not considered -profitable, since, as a rule, one can procure during summer and fall -excellent potatoes from Maine and Nova Scotia, with greater economy than -by growing them in Cuba, at times when the land can be more profitably -used for other purposes. - -Potatoes, of course, need barn yard manures and fertilizers, the more -the better; or rather, the greater is the return. The yield varies -according to conditions anywhere from forty to one hundred barrels and -more per acre. The Cuban product is almost invariably of good quality, -and when placed in the eastern markets of the United States in the month -of March, will bring anywhere from $6 to $10 per barrel. Under normal -conditions $8 seems to be the ruling price for Cuban potatoes on the -wharves at New York, where they are sold as exotics or new potatoes. -Thus $500 may be considered a fair return per acre. - -Green peppers, too, have been found to be one of the most satisfactory -and profitable crops in Cuba. They are planted in rows three feet apart, -spaced a foot or more in the row so that they can be kept clean with -adjustable cultivators drawn by light ponies. Hand cultivation, although -sometimes indulged in, with the present price of labor is practically -impossible. - -A well-known pepper grower of the Guayabal district, in the northwestern -corner of Havana Province, on less than a hundred acres of land, grew -6,000 crates of green peppers in the winter of 1917-18, that netted him -$6 per crate in the City of New York. Peppers are easily grown and -handled, and the market or demand for them seems to be quite constant, -hence they have become one of the favorite vegetables for the export -trade. - -Tomatoes, too, are grown very successfully in Cuba during the late fall -and winter. The seed is secured from reliable houses in the United -States each year, and is selected largely with reference to the firmness -or shipping quality of the fruit. The methods of cultivation are similar -to those employed in the United States. The weeds are usually killed out -of the field in the early spring, and kept down with profitable cover -crops, such as the carita and velvet bean. These, when turned under or -harvested by hogs, place the soil in perfect condition. - -The planting is done usually in October and November and the cultivation -carried on either with native horses or mules, or gasoline-propelled -cultivators. The yield where the water control and other conditions are -favorable, is large, and the price secured in the northern markets -varies from $2 to $5 per half bushel crate. It is true that when -tomatoes from Florida and the Gulf States begin to go north in large -quantities, there are frequently reports of glutted markets and falling -prices. It is then that the canning factory comes to the rescue of the -planter and contracts for the remainder of his stock at satisfactory -prices. - -Of all varieties, the Redfield Beauty is probably the tomato most in -vogue among growers in Cuba. It grows luxuriantly and yields from two -hundred to three hundred crates per acre. - -Eggplants as a rule are successfully grown on all rich mellow soils. The -methods of cultivation are almost identical with those employed in -growing tomatoes. A small pear shaped variety is grown for the local -markets in Havana and other cities, but for export purposes it would be -unsatisfactory. The finest varieties known in the States are all found -here. The yield under favorable conditions is large and the crop stands -shipment for long distances without injury. - -As a rule the prices obtained in the north have rendered the growing of -egg plants very profitable. From $3 to $7 per crate are the usual -limitations in price. The uncertainty of this price, however, in -different seasons, has rendered the production of the eggplant rather an -interesting gamble. This is true regardless of the quality of the fruit, -in nearly all products sold in distant markets. - -Okra, or quimbombo, as the vegetable is called in Cuba, while not as a -rule commanding fancy prices, nevertheless brings satisfactory returns, -both abroad and in the local market, where the demand is more or less -steady. Like all others mentioned, it is strictly a late fall or winter -vegetable, and its cultivation is identical with methods employed in the -United States. Prices usually obtained are from two to three dollars a -half bushel crate. - -The growing of lima beans in Cuba has proved a gilt-edge undertaking for -those who have been careful in the selection of seed and proper -cultivation after planting. The price obtained in the United States has -varied between $2 and $8 per hamper, or bean basket, with an average of -perhaps $5. The crop is quickly grown and with sufficient labor to -gather the beans at the proper time the grower is relieved of his only -cause for worry. The labor problem can usually be overcome if the farm -is located near any one of the small towns where help of women and -children is available. - -String beans, while readily grown in Cuba, do not always find a demand -in the northern markets sufficient to justify the fancy prices -frequently obtained for other vegetables. The local demand in Havana, -while not large, is nevertheless satisfactory to the small farmer living -within a short distance of the city, where he can deliver his crop -without the expense of railroad transportation. - -The summer squash, too, succeeds very well in Cuba, and if the crop does -not encounter the competition of the growers in the Gulf States, it is, -as a rule, fairly profitable. A variety of the native squash known as -the Calabaza, always finds a ready sale in the local markets. This -prolific Criolla production is almost always planted with corn by the -native farmers, since its yield never fails and its market is constant -and satisfactory. - -Recent experiments have been made by an American grower who has imported -the seed of the small pie-pumpkin into Cuba. To use his own words, "This -variety grows even faster than weeds, and the pumpkins cover the ground -so thick that you can hardly avoid walking on them." They make a very -fine fall and winter crop, with an average yield of five tons per acre. -This delicate variety of pumpkin, when canned, will probably prove -available for export purposes. - -The great drawback to profitable vegetable growing in Cuba lies largely -in the uncertainty of the northern markets, where prices fluctuate so -rapidly, with the minimum and the maximum so far apart, that it is -difficult for the vegetable grower, a thousand miles away, to count with -any certainty on the returns from his crops when shipped abroad. The -establishment of receiving agents, perhaps, under the control of men who -were financially interested with the growers themselves, might remedy -this difficulty. The canning industry, if established on a sufficiently -broad scale, would also add stability to the price of all crops grown in -Cuba, and place the cultivation of vegetables on a more certain -foundation. - -The introduction of irrigation, wherever possible, insures so generous a -crop of almost any vegetable planted in this Island, that the returns -to the grower, even where the price may not be fancy, will be decidedly -remunerative. The incalculable advantages to be secured by irrigation, -especially in the growing of vegetables, planted in the late fall and -gathered during the winter and early spring, when rains are not always -forthcoming, is a matter in which the Department of Agriculture is -deeply interested. - -One of the best irrigation engineers of the United States has been -invited to go over the field of Cuba, and to advise the Government in -regard to the various localities in which irrigation plants may be -installed with success and profit to the growers. These plans when -carried out will prove of marvellous benefit to the agricultural -industry and will greatly increase the revenues derived from tobacco, as -well as from vegetables. - -The great advantage, however, enjoyed by all vegetable growers in Cuba, -lies in the fact that stormy weather never interferes with the -cultivation of crops; sunshine may be depended upon every day of the -year, and the farmer is seldom if ever compelled to lay aside his -implements, and wait for the weather to adjust itself to his needs. In -other words, he can always work if he wants to, and the market abroad, -if he "strikes it right," may yield him a small fortune from a -comparatively few acres in a very few months. - -It would be misleading to the prospective farmer or stranger to quote -the almost fabulous returns at times secured on some favored spot, but -with irrigation, which insures absolute control of the growing crop, the -profits from vegetable raising may run anywhere from $100 to $500 per -acre, and more. - -Among those "striking it rich" incidents that may be occasionally found, -may be mentioned a little tract of ground consisting of only four acres -of land, located along the railroad track, not 100 yards from a station -on the Western Railway. Here two Spanish storekeepers placed under -cultivation four acres of land that had been previously prepared with a -carita bean crop, hog fed and turned under. These partners had a well -sunk in the middle of the tract, and a little gasoline engine installed -that enabled them to adjust the water supply each day to the -requirements of the field. - -Here they planted eggplants, tomatoes, green peppers and Irish potatoes. -The cultivation was done by one man and a pony. During the gathering of -the crops some additional help was required, although the two owners -worked hard themselves during late afternoons and early mornings. The -return from these crops during the four months in which they were in the -ground, amounted to $6,430. - -Incidents of this kind are not by any means common, but nevertheless -they give some indication of what may be accomplished in growing -vegetables in Cuba, when the work is conducted along modern lines and -under intelligent management. Capital, of course, is necessary, as in -all other industries, but the reward, even with the element of the -gamble taken into consideration, is to say the least very tempting. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -STANDARD GRAINS AND FORAGE - - -Corn or Maize was probably indigenous to the Island of Cuba, since it -was one of the chief staples of food used by the Siboney Indians at the -time of Columbus's visit. This cereal may be grown in any of the -provinces, although varieties introduced from the United States do not -give the results that might be expected. - -The native Cuban corn has a comparatively short ear with its point -closed by Nature. This prevents the entrance of the grub or worm, so -destructive to the northern varieties that have been introduced here. -The kernel is hard, bright, yellow, rich in proteins and in oil, and is -very nutritious as a food. - -In spite of the small size of the ear, on rich lands 40 bushels per acre -are frequently secured, so that, taking into consideration the fact that -two crops may be successfully grown in twelve months, the sum total of -the yield is not bad, and the price of maize in the local markets is -always satisfactory. Experiments are being carried on at the present -time towards improving the native Cuban corn, some of which have met -with success. - -The method of growing corn in Cuba has little to recommend it. -Improvements will come, however, as a result of the excellent -instructive work being carried on by the Government Experimental -Station. As a rule, corn in Cuba is planted too close, and with -absolutely no attention paid to the selection of seed; hence we seldom -find more than one ear to a stalk. - -A rather novel experiment, carried on by Mr. F. R. Hall, of Camaguey, -has proved quite satisfactory in increasing the length of the ear. His -corn is grown in hills four feet apart and cultivated in both -directions. Two grains are planted in the hill, one a grain of selected -Cuban corn, the other a grain of first-class American corn. The latter -will make the taller stalk of the two, and from the former, or native -stock, the tassel is nipped off, so that only pollen from the American -corn is permitted to fall upon the silk and thus fertilize the native -ear. - -The result of this experiment has been a very much larger ear, the tip -of which has retained the tight twist of the husk, peculiar to native -corn. This closes in and protects the grain from attack of worms or -borers. By selecting from this cross, and again crossing or fertilizing -with Northern corn, a greatly improved variety of maize has been -produced. This experiment is sufficient to demonstrate that a great deal -may be done towards improving both the size and quality of Cuban corn. - -Between the rows, calabaza, a variety of native pumpkin, greatly -resembling that of the United States, is grown as a rule, thus following -one of the precepts of New England. In this connection pumpkins from -Massachusetts seed give excellent results, planted with corn. The demand -for corn in the market, owing to the large amount consumed in the -Island, insures always a good price to the grower. - -Nearly all varieties of millet and kaffir corn thrive well in Cuba and -furnish a very nutritious food for both stock and poultry. This millet, -or "millo," of which two varieties, the tall white and the short black, -are in common use, is apparently free from enemies, and since it seems -to thrive in seasons either wet or dry, and in lands either moist or -subject to drought, the crop is considered very reliable and hence -profitable especially where poultry raising is contemplated. - -Wheat was grown at one time for home consumption, in the Province of -Santa Clara. Here, on the high table lands, with a comparatively low -temperature during the cool, dry winter months, it came to maturity. In -one locality west of the city of Sancti Spiritus in Santa Clara, there -is quite an extensive table land, with an altitude of some 2,000 feet, -where a very good variety of wheat was grown along about the middle of -the 19th century. It is said to have furnished an abundance of good -grain that was highly prized in that section. Just why its cultivation -was abandoned is not known, aside from the fact that most of the -agriculturists found growing sugar cane vastly more profitable. With -money from the sugar crop flour could be purchased and the demands of -the baker satisfied. - -Experiments are contemplated in the near future in the growing of wheat -in this same locality. But regardless of the results, it is more than -probable that custom or inclination will impel the people of Cuba under -normal conditions to purchase their wheat from the United States. - -Nevertheless, extensive experiments in the propagation of wheat, the -seed of which has been brought from many countries, are now in process -of development in the grounds of the Government Agricultural Station. - -These will probably be supplemented a little later by plantings from -selected seeds of the most promising varieties on the fertile soils of -high plateaus in southeastern Santa Clara. Experimental work at the -Central or Havana Station facilitates also the study of any disease that -may attack different varieties of wheat before they have been accepted -as permanently successful in Cuba. - -Next to wheat bread, rice is in greater demand than any other food -staple in Cuba. Large quantities are imported every year from India, and -were it not for the low price of the product, greater attention would -probably have been paid to its local production. Upland or dry rice has -been grown to a certain extent in Cuba for many years. Nearly every -farmer with suitable soil, who can command irrigation in any form, has a -small patch of rice for his own consumption, and that grown from the -Valencia seed is much preferred to the imported rice. - -The European War, with its attendant difficulties of high freights and -shortages of shipping, has stimulated the planting of rice in Cuba to a -greater extent than ever before. A series of experiments are now being -carried on at the Government Agricultural Station, in order to secure -more definite knowledge in regard to the success of rice in various -soils, altitudes and months of planting. For this purpose seeds of the -Valencia, Barbados and Bolo, the exotics also from Honduras and Japan, -together with American upland and golden rice, are being tried. The -last-named seems excellently adapted to Cuban soil and latitude. - -In order for rice to be successfully grown, however, certain conditions -are absolutely essential. Most important of these is first, a fairly -rich soil, underlaid with an impervious subsoil of clay, and located in -sections where irrigation, or the application of water to the crop, may -be possible. Comparatively level valleys or basins, lying close to the -mountains, that have impervious clay subsoil, are considered favorite -localities. The preparation for rice, as with most other crops, -necessitates the extermination of all weeds and the thorough ploughing -or pulverizing of the soil, after which it should be planted with -drilling machines as is wheat or oats. The sowing of the rice in seed -beds to be afterwards transplanted requires entirely too much hand labor -for the successful cultivation of this or any other crop in Cuba, unless -perhaps an exception might be made of tobacco and a few winter -vegetables. Machinery adapted to the cultivation of rice or any other -crop, is absolutely essential to successful agriculture in Cuba at the -present time. - -Rice is planted with the earliest spring rains of March or April, when -possible, so that the crop may be taken off in August or September. When -lack of early rains renders this dangerous, it is planted in late May, -or early June, and gathered in the month of October. Seeds of a variety -of rice that is said to thrive in salt marshes have been received at the -Experimental Station and will be thoroughly tried out a little later. - -North and east of Moron, in western Camaguey, are low savannas extending -over thousands of acres that are covered during much of the rainy season -with a few inches of water, and where the surface, even during the dry -season, is moist, although not muddy. These great level areas have -practically no drainage and are almost invariably saturated with water, -although in no sense of the word can they be considered swamps, and if -planted in rice, as are the low prairies of southern Louisiana and -Texas, would seem to give promise of success. In the district above -mentioned, these flat damp lands extend in a wild belt for many miles -along the north coast of Camaguey, between the mountains and the ocean. -They are covered with grass on which cattle feed during the dry season. - -There are many other similar lands located at different points along the -coast of Cuba. If these could be successfully dedicated to the -cultivation of rice, following where convenient the methods prevalent in -the western Gulf States, an enormous saving to the Island would be made -as well as the development of a now neglected industry. The importation -of rice from the orient and other foreign countries amounts to -approximately three hundred and thirty million pounds, valued at -$12,000,000. - -With the increase of population and the demand for rice as a staple food -product, the cultivation of this grain, so popular in all Latin-American -Republics, will undoubtedly be considered. Experiments now being carried -on at the Government Station will ultimately determine the varieties and -conditions under which it can be most economically and successfully -grown in Cuba. - -In spite of the fact that two of the best grasses known, both of which -are said to yield even better here than in either Africa or the plains -of Parana, whence they came, flourish in Cuba, the Island still imports -large quantities of hay from the United States for use in cities. The -potreros or meadows of Cuba with their great fields, stretching over -many leagues of territory, are as rich as any known, and can support as -a rule at least twenty head of cattle to every caballeria or 33 acres. - -The Parana grass of South America grows on the low lands of Cuba with a -luxuriance that will almost impede travel through it on horseback. The -jointed stems of this grass, interlacing with each other, frequently -grow to a length of ten or 12 feet. The same is true of the Guinea, -brought from the west coast of Africa, which is adapted to the higher -lands and hillsides, and where the soil beneath is rich, it often -reaches a height of 6 or 8 feet, completely hiding the grazing cattle or -the man who may be endeavoring to force his way afoot across the field -in search of them. The native indigenous grasses of the Island, although -suitable for grazing purposes, are rather tough and hard and will not -fatten livestock as will the two grasses referred to above. - -Probably the best permanent pasture in Cuba is secured by planting -Bermuda. This grass has been imported from the United States and -installed in Cuba with splendid results. On rich soils the growth is -rank, and the sod firm, with a larger yield probably on account of the -more favorable climate. Stock of all kind, especially horses and hogs, -are very fond of the Bermuda grass, preferring it in fact to any other. - -Some stock growers, in the Province of Camaguey, are planting large -fields of it, as one rancher explained "just to tickle the palate" of -his brood mares. This same grass, too, is being used for lawns in nearly -all parks and private grounds in the neighborhood of Havana. With a -little care at the beginning of the rainy season, a splendid firm lawn -can be made with Bermuda in a few weeks. - -Recognizing the value of alfalfa, which is today probably the standard -forage of the Western and Southwestern States of North America, -experiments were made in Cuba at different times, but not always with -success. A fairly good stand was apparently secured on President -Menocal's farm "El Chico," just out of Havana. But in spite of earnest -efforts on the part of the gardener, weeds eventually choked it out, so -that the field was abandoned. At the Experimental Station a small tract -of alfalfa has been recently planted that seems to give promise of -permanence and complete success. - -In the Province of Camaguey, a well-known stock raiser from Texas -secured seed from his native state that had been inoculated, and planted -it in drills three feet apart. All weeds had been previously -exterminated through the use of a heavy cover crop of velvet beans, -turned under. As soon as the alfalfa began to show, light-pony-drawn -cultivators were kept running between the rows, cutting out every weed -that appeared, and allowing the alfalfa gradually to spread, until the -spaces between rows were completely covered, and further cultivation was -unnecessary. The soil was rich and moist, and could be irrigated in -February or March if necessary. From his alfalfa today, he is making -seven heavy cuttings a year, which demonstrates the fact that this -valuable forage plant under favorable conditions can be successfully -grown in Cuba. - -Cowpeas of almost all varieties are successfully grown in Cuba as they -are in the Gulf States of America, where the climate, aside from cold -rains and frost in winter, is somewhat similar to Cuba. Both the peas -and the pea-vine hay command good prices throughout the year, in the -local markets of the cities; hence the cultivation of this excellent -forage plant and vegetable, especially when grown with corn, is in -common practice. - -A variety of the cowpea, known as La Carita, is very popular in Cuba, -owing to its large yield, and to the fact that after a shower of rain it -can be planted with profit any month of the year, with the exception -perhaps of July and August. The carita belongs to the running or ground -covering variety, and if grown with corn will use the stalks on which to -climb, without detriment to the major crop. The pods are long and filled -with peas about the size of the small Navy beans of New England. The -color is a cream white, with a little dark stain around the germ, which -gave it the name of Carita or little face. The pea for table use is -excellent, of splendid flavor, and becomes soft and palatable with an -hour's cooking. The vines make good hay, and the average yield of beans -is about 1200 pounds to the acre, which at prices varying from five to -ten cents per pound forms quite a satisfactory crop. - -The kinds of beans grown in Cuba are almost unlimited. Various soils of -the Island seem adapted to the legume family, and many varieties have -been introduced not only from the United States but from Mexico and -Central America. One indigenous bean, the botanical name for which has -not been determined, is found growing wild along the southern coast of -Pinar del Rio. The pods are well filled, and although the bean is very -small it is nevertheless delicious eating. The running vines make a -perfect mat or surface carpet and yield an abundance of hay, nutritious -and greatly liked by stock. The origin and habits of this bean, and the -extent to which it might be improved by cultivation, are being studied -by the Government Experimental Station at the present time. - -Of all forage and food crops grown in Cuba, there is none, perhaps, more -universally successful than the peanut. The little Spanish variety, -owing to its heavy production of oil, is popular and very prolific in -all parts of the Island where the soil is sandy. - -On the red lands, or those that have a clay basis, the Virginia peanuts -thrive wonderfully well. Unlike the little Spanish, the Virginia, or -larger varieties, are usually planted in the spring months, and continue -growing all through the summer. The yield of the Virginia peanut is -large, and the hay resulting from the vines, under favorable conditions, -will approximate two tons or more per acre. This hay is considered one -of the best forage crops, and the field, after the peanuts have been -removed for market, can be very profitably converted into a hog pasture, -so that the small nuts, and those that escape the harvester, are turned -into excellent account, and the field is put into splendid condition for -the next planting. - -The yield of the Spanish peanut varies according to conditions of soil, -and control of water, anywhere from 40 to 100 bushels per acre. Every -bushel of Spanish peanuts will produce one gallon of oil, the price of -which at the present time exceeds $1. From each bushel of nuts with the -shells ground in, about 20 pounds of splendid oil-cake are secured. -This, fed to stock, especially to hogs, in combination with corn or -yucca, is undoubtedly one of the finest foods for fattening and quick -growth that can be found. Peanut-cake readily brings in Havana from $30 -to $40 per ton. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - -ANIMALS - - -Cuba, like the other West Indian Islands, is strangely poor in its -indigenous mammals. The largest wild animal is the deer, a beautiful -creature, resembling much the graceful Cervidae of the Virginia -mountains. It is in fact a sub-species of the American deer. But these -were imported into Cuba from some unknown place, and at a time of which -there is no record extant. They are very plentiful throughout nearly all -of the thinly settled sections of Cuba, especially in the Province of -Pinar del Rio, where, in places not hunted, they exhibit very little -fear of man and frequently appear near native huts in the hills, drawn -there probably through curiosity, which is one of the weak points of -these most beautiful denizens of the forest. - -The abundance of food and absence of cold throughout the year, as well -as the shelter given by the dense woodland and mountains, has led to -their rapid increase. The game laws also protect them from destruction -with the exception of a brief period during the late fall and winter. - -A peculiar animal known as the Hutia, of which there are three varieties -in Cuba, together with the small anteater, known as the Solenoden, -represent the entire native mammalian fauna of the Island. Hutia is the -name given in Cuba to three species of the Caprimys, which belong to -this country. The largest of the three is distributed over the entire -Island. It weighs about ten pounds and is frequently seen in the tree -tops of the forest, living on leaves and tender bark. The other species -are only about half the size of the former. One of these has a long -rat-like tail with which it hangs to limbs of trees, as does the -American opossum. The third species is confined to the Province of -Oriente. Outside of Cuba only two of the Caprimys or Hutias are found, -one in the Bahamas, and the other in Jamaica and Swan Island, now almost -extinct. The Hutias are arboreal rodents. Those of the mountains rear -their little families among the boulders of the tall sierras, where the -feeble voices of the young can often be heard by one who listens -carefully. Their faint cry is very suggestive of the peep of little -chickens. Hutias are sometimes kept as pets in the country. - -The large rodents, as a new world product, attained their maximum -development a very long while ago, during the middle Tertiary period. -Since that time the group has been steadily diminishing, and the -extensive land areas over which they once thronged have undergone many -changes. The Caprimys are a stranded remnant whose ancestral relations -are difficult to trace. - -The largest bird of the Island is the Cuban sandhill crane (Grus -nesiotes). This rather rare representative of the feathered tribe is -found occasionally on grassy plains surrounding the western end of the -Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio. They are also quite plentiful along -the foothills, and on the grass covered plateaus just south of the -Cubitas Mountains, in Camaguey, where they were at one time quite tame. -These birds are found also in Mexico and in the United States, and when -less than a year old are excellent eating. They stand about four feet in -height and are only a trifle smaller than the whooping crane of the -western plains of the United States. - -The guinea-fowl is one of the most common birds of Cuba and was -introduced by the early Spanish conquerors who brought it from the Cape -Verde Islands, whence it had been carried from Africa. This bird, which -has exceptional ability in taking care of itself, while found on nearly -every native farm, soon became wild in Cuba, and is quite plentiful in -some of the dense forests of the Island, especially in the Province of -Camaguey, where it occasionally furnished food for the insurgents during -the War of Independence. The wild guinea is excellent eating, resembling -in size and quality the prairie chicken once so common on the western -prairies of the United States. - -The domestic turkey is, of course, indigenous to almost all parts of -North and Central America. Of its introduction into Cuba there is -practically no record. The climate of the Island is very congenial to -turkeys, hence far less trouble is found in raising them than in the -United States. - -The Cuban "bob-white" with its cheerful note is common throughout the -Island. He is slightly smaller and darker than the American quail, which -some time in the remote past migrated to Cuba. The game laws of the -Island protect both of these birds quite efficiently, otherwise they -would long ago have been extinguished. - -The ubiquitous turkey buzzard is also common in Cuba and quite as -obnoxious as in the southern states of America. - -The little Cuban sparrow hawk, similar to if not identical with that of -the United States, is also found in the Island, as is also the king -bird, which retains his pugnacious habits, not hesitating to tackle -anything that flies. Many varieties of the owl are also found in Cuba, -including the large handsome white owl. - -The mocking bird of the South, that king of song birds, to which -Linnaeus gave the name of Minus Polyglottus Orpheus, is usually in -evidence with his beautiful song, if not always in sight. The sweet -voiced meadow lark of the United States also is very common in Cuba. - -The wild pigeons, once so plentiful in the United States, are still -found in Cuba. Their roosting places are in the deep forests. The -Province of Camaguey seems to be their favorite rendezvous. Other -pigeons found in Cuba are the West Indian mourning dove, the Zenaida -dove, and the little Cuban ground dove. Another beautiful -representative of the dove family is the native white crowned pigeon -(Columba Leucocephala) gentle, lovable creatures that make delightful -pets for children. Two specimens of these doves are domiciled in the -Zoological Park at Washington. - -Parrots, of course, are indigenous to Cuba. Several varieties are -represented, the largest of which, with its brilliant green plumage and -red head, can be easily tamed, while its linguistic ability rapidly -develops with a little patience. These birds when not mating fly in -great flocks, sometimes alighting near homes in the forest, their -unmelodious chatter rendering conversation impossible. The squabs are -excellent eating and are sometimes used for that purpose. Another Cuban -parrot, the Amazona Leucocephala, makes its nest in holes excavated in -the upper reaches of the royal palm, 50 or 60 feet above the ground. - -A striking bird, peculiar to the coastal regions, is the Cuban oriole; a -black bird with bright yellow shoulders, rump and tail coverts, the -under side of the wings also yellow. As a general alarmist, he is equal -to the cat bird, also found in Cuba. A little sneaking about the thicket -will lure the oriole from his hiding place and cause him to scold and -revile the intruder. The Cuban green woodpecker and the white-eyed vireo -are also garrulous birds often met in company with the oriole. - -One of the most beautiful birds of Cuba is the little tody, which, with -the exception of humming birds that are also very plentiful, is the -smallest of the feathered inhabitants of the Island. Its length from tip -of bill to tip of tail is only a little over three inches. The entire -back of the bird is a brilliant grass green. On its throat is a large -patch of bright scarlet, bordered by a zone of white at the angle of the -bill, replaced toward the posterior end of the patch by a bright blue. -The under parts are white and smoky, while the flanks are washed with a -pale scarlet. This little jewel of a bird may be found anywhere in -Western Cuba, usually in low shrubbery, bordering some path, from which -he invites your attention by a song that recalls faintly the note of the -kingfisher. - -Scattered throughout the island and especially plentiful in the Sierras, -is the Cuban lizard-cuckoo, known to the natives as the arriero. He is -about twenty inches in length, the long broad tail representing about -three-fifths while the bill will add almost two inches. The arriero is -one of the most interesting members of Cuban avifauna. His color is a -pale greyish brown with a metallic flush. The throat and the anterior -part of the under-surfaces are grey, washed with pale brown, while the -posterior portion is a pale reddish brown. The large, broad tail -feathers are tipped with white and crossed by a broad band of black. - -He is a veritable clown, of curious and inquiring turn of mind, and -extremely amusing in his antics. Having responded to your call, he will -inspect you carefully, moving his tail sidewise, or cocking it up like a -wren. He may slink away like a shadow, or he may spread his wings and -tumble over himself, chattering as if he had discovered the most amusing -thing in the world, and was bubbling over with mirth. - -One of the most strikingly colored birds in Cuba is the trogon. The top -of his head is metallic purple, the entire back metallic green, while -the under parts are pale grey, a little lighter at the throat. The -posterior and under tail coverts are scarlet, while the primaries of the -wing, and part of the secondaries, are marked with white bars. The outer -tail feathers also are tipped with broad bands of white, the combination -giving to the bird a strikingly brilliant appearance. The Trogon is -inclined to conceal his beauty in thickets, and rarely displays himself -in the open. His call suggests that of the northern cuckoos. - -Water birds are very plentiful, especially in the shallow lagoons that -for hundreds of miles separate the mainland from the outlying islands. -The largest and most striking of these is probably the flamingo, great -flocks of which may be seen in the early morning, spreading out like a -line of red-coated soldiers along the sand spits, or restingas, that -frequently reach out from shore a mile or more, into the shallow salt -waters. The flamingos are very shy, seldom permitting man to approach -within 200 yards. - -Another beautiful water bird is the Sevilla that reaches, with maturity, -about the size of the Muscovy cock. Until nearly a year old this -beautiful inhabitant of the lagoons is snow white, after which his color -changes to a bright carmine red. In the unfrequented lagoons he is still -very plentiful. In the same waters are found many varieties of the heron -family, including the much sought for little white heron, with its -beautiful plumage, from which the aigrettes so popular among women as -ornaments are obtained. - -One of the most peculiar and conspicuous birds in Cuba is the ani, found -everywhere throughout the Island where there are cattle, even -approaching the outskirts of large cities. The ani is about the size of -a small crow, jet black in color with a metallic sheen, and carries a -peculiar crest on the upper mandible. It lives almost entirely on ticks -or other parasitic insects that trouble cattle. It will sit perched on -the back of an ox, hunting industriously for ticks, which process or -favor is apparently enjoyed by the patient beasts. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - -STOCK RAISING - - -Some of the men who followed Christopher Columbus across the Atlantic at -the close of the 15th century were accustomed to stock raising in Spain, -and all of them realized the value of the horse to the mounted warrior, -armed with long lance or sharp cutlass, with which he could ride down -the poor naked Indians of Cuba. They had come from Seville and the -southern provinces, and had perhaps acquired their appreciation of the -horse from the Arab, who made this noble animal his companion, and to -all intents and purposes a member of his family. - -The conquerors brought with them their animals and thus the equine race -was introduced for the first time into the Western Hemisphere. All that -came from Spain in the early days were of Arabian stock, which, although -permitted to deteriorate, has still retained many of the characteristics -of the parent stock, among which are endurance and gentleness. A colt -that has always run wild over the ranges of Cuba, can be easily broken -to the saddle in a few hours. - -Owing to the abundance of food throughout the year, and to the absence -of sleet, snow or cold rains, that sometimes chill and retard the growth -of young colts, this Island is probably quite as well adapted to the -breeding and raising of horses as any place in the world. During the -first Government of Intervention, a large number of American horses were -brought to Cuba by the Army of Occupation, and in spite of this abrupt -change of climate and conditions, cavalry officers stated that never -before had they found a place where their mounts seemed to thrive so -well, and to remain so free from disease. Out of two thousand horses -stationed at Camp Columbia, in the year 1901, only three were found in -the hospital, two of these suffering from accidents, and the third, from -a mild case of imported glanders. - -The native horses, although smaller than the American, are hardy, gentle -and easily kept, and unless taught to eat corn, invariably prefer the -rich grasses to which they have always been accustomed. This native -stock, when crossed with good Kentucky, Missouri or Montana stallions, -produces really excellent service animals, especially for the saddle. - -Since the accession of General Menocal to the Presidency, and especially -since his appointment of General Sanchez Agramonte as Secretary of -Agriculture, rapid strides have been made in the introduction of fine -thoroughbred stallions, most of them gaited saddle animals that have -been imported from Kentucky, and brought to Cuba for breeding purposes. -These animals have been distributed by the Department of Agriculture -throughout the different provinces, and improvement in resulting colts -is already beginning to be apparent. - -Probably one half of the native horses of Cuba in 1895 were killed or -rendered useless during the War of Independence, which began in that -year. This, of course, was a great loss to the Island, but so rapid is -the rate of increase in this balmy climate that horses have again become -quite plentiful and consequently cheap. - -Registered in the Department of Agriculture, in the year 1918, for the -Province of Oriente, were 218,876 horses; in Santa Clara were 212,985; -in Camaguey 129,023; in Matanzas, 108,900; in Havana, 94,214, and in -Pinar del Rio, 63,021; making a total of 827,019 registered in the -Island. - -The small, pony-built, light stepping, sure-footed horses, of the -original or native stock of the Island, especially in the interior, are -quite cheap; mares selling in some places at from $10 to $20, while -geldings of the same grade will bring from $20 to $40, and stallions -from $25 to $50. - -Nevertheless, a well gaited and spirited native saddle horse, in the -City of Havana, will find a ready market at anywhere from $75 to $200. -Imported saddle animals, well gaited, and from good stables, bring in -Cuba prices varying from $300 to $2,000; the price varying with the -merit of the animal and the fancy of the purchaser. With splendid -grasses, balmy climate, and excellent water, there is no reason why the -breeding of horses in Cuba, especially those types suited for fancy -saddle animals, military remounts and polo ponies, should not be -profitable and successful in every sense of the word. - -Good mules are always in demand in Cuba, although not many are bred in -the Island, and most of them up to the present have been imported from -Missouri, Texas and other sections of the United States. Under normal -conditions a pair of good mules in Havana will bring from $250 to $500. -Scattered throughout the country in 1918 were approximately 61,000 -mules, and about 3,250 asses. - -When the first Spanish settlers, most of whom were lured to Cuba through -the hope of finding gold in quantities never realized, saw the great, -broad and rich grass covered savannas of Camaguey, dreams of riches from -cattle raising with far more promise than the fortunes expected from -easily found gold tempered their disappointment, and laid the foundation -for future prosperity. - -A few cattle were brought over from Spain in the first expeditions and -left at Santo Domingo, where they at once began to multiply and thrive. -From this fountain head, Diego Velasquez brought several boatloads to -Cuba, that were distributed among his friends in the seven cities of -which he was the founder. - -The original cattle were of a type peculiar to Spain in the 16th -century; rather small, well shaped and handsome animals, of a light -brown or dark jersey color, similar to that of the wild deer in shade, -and usually carrying a dark streak along the spine, with a rather heavy -cross of black at the shoulders. Although almost no care was given to -these animals, and no attempt made at selection or improvement of the -breed, they continued to multiply and thrive on the rich native grasses -of the savannas throughout the Island. - -In 1895, there were approximately 3,000,000 head registered in Cuba by -the Spanish colonial authorities. Beef was then plentiful and cheap, and -Cuba was supplying the British colonies of the Bahama Islands with -nearly all the meat consumed. Most of it was shipped from the harbor of -Nuevitas across the banks to Nassau. - -With the beginning of the War of Independence, as in all wars, food was -a matter of prime necessity; hence the great herds of cattle roaming the -fields of the eastern provinces became at once legitimate prey, and -since there was no commissary department, and but little effort made on -either side to protect beef from unnecessary slaughter, thousands of -head of cattle were killed, not alone for food, but by each army, the -insurgent and the Spanish, in order to prevent the other side from -getting the benefit of the food. With this reckless method of -destruction, at the expiration of the struggle in 1898, 85%, perhaps -90%, of the cattle of the Island had been wiped out of existence. - -The shortage of beef, of course, was serious, and at the beginning of -the first Government of Intervention steps were taken by General Brooke -and later by General Wood to encourage the immediate importation of -cattle from any locality where they might happen to be available. Hence -cattle were imported indiscriminately from Texas, Louisiana, Florida and -Venezuela, with the natural result that the breeding animals of -succeeding years were composed of a very mixed and ill selected lot. - -With the installation of the Republic, measures were taken to remedy -this misfortune, and to improve the breed. Many private individuals who -had always been interested in the cattle industry imported thoroughbred -bulls from the United States. Quite a number of American stock raisers, -mostly from Texas and other southern states, attracted by the stories of -fine cheap grazing lands, with fresh grass throughout the year, came to -Cuba and settled in Camaguey. Many of these brought with them a stock of -better animals. - -When General Menocal assumed the Presidency in 1913 the further -importation of good cattle was encouraged, and an Agricultural -Exposition or Stock Fair was held at the Quinto de Molinos, or Botanical -Gardens in Havana, where stock breeders from all over the world vied -with each other in the exhibition of fine, thoroughbred animals of many -kinds. An excellent exhibition of Jerseys, imported in 1901 by Joaquin -Quilez, then Governor of the Province of Pinar del Rio, represented a -fine grade of milch cows. - -Cattle came not only from the United States, but crossed the Atlantic -from Holland and from France, while a very attractive breed of handsome, -dark red cattle, were placed on exhibition by the late Sir William Van -Horne, which he had previously imported from the Western coast of -Africa. Most interesting, perhaps, of all, were several specimens of the -Zebu, a large variety of the sacred cattle of India, that had previously -been introduced from abroad, and kept at the Experimental Station at -Santiago de las Vegas. - -The Zebu, although of somewhat self-willed disposition, and with an -inclination to jump any fence under seven feet, is nevertheless proving -a very important addition to the breeding stock of Cuba. This largest -specimen of the bovine species, standing at the shoulders some six feet -in height, when crossed with the ordinary cow of Cuba, produces a much -larger and stronger animal, with this very important advantage, that at -two years of age, a weight equivalent to or in excess of the ordinary -three years old, is attained, while the quality of the meat is in no way -impaired. - -The Zebu is not only valuable for beef breeding purposes but is probably -unequaled in the capacity of a draft ox. A pair of Zebus, when yoked to -a cart or wagon, will drop into a trot with an ordinary load at daylight -in the morning, and without serious effort make fifty miles by sunset. -The strength of these animals is almost incredible, and the cross with -the common cow will undoubtedly furnish a valuable adjunct to successful -stock growing in the Republic. - -In all stock raising enterprises, plenty of fresh water is absolutely -essential. Rivers or running streams are most desirable acquisitions to -any ranch. Where these cannot be found, wells are usually sunk and water -met at depths varying from twenty to two hundred feet. In the foothills -and mountainous districts, never failing streams are found in abundance. - -There still remain hundreds of thousands of acres of well watered and -well drained lands, that possess all the conditions desired for stock -raising. Much of the territory formerly devoted to grazing has been -recently planted in sugar cane, owing to the high prices of sugar, -resulting from the European War. In spite of this fact there are still -large tracts in nearly every province of the Island that not only are -available for stock raising, but would, if sown in grasses and forage -plants, produce, under proper management, returns per acre quite as -satisfactory as those derived from sugar cane. - -In both Havana and Matanzas Provinces good lands command a price that is -rather prohibitive for grazing purposes. But in Pinar del Rio, and the -three large eastern provinces of the Island, there are still extensive -tracts, both in the level sections, and in the foothills, that are ideal -grazing lands, and if not absorbed in the near future by the cane -planters, these lands will eventually, owing to their advantages for -stock raising, yield revenues quite as satisfactory as those of any -other in the Republic. - -These lands can be secured at the present time, in large tracts, at -prices varying from $15 to $50 per acre, and if properly administered, -will easily yield an annual net return from 25% to 50% on the -investment. One prominent stock raiser in the Province of Camaguey, an -American who, starting with nothing, has built up a very tidy fortune in -the last ten years, stated that his return in the year 1918 represented -a profit of 104% on his capital invested. This excellent showing, -however, may have resulted from the practice of buying calves at low -figures that have been dropped in less advantageous sections, and -removing them to rich potreros where they were quickly fattened for the -Havana market. - -Cuba at the present time is importing approximately $10,000,000 worth of -pork and pork products annually, notwithstanding the fact that this -Island, owing to exceptional conditions for raising hogs economically, -could not only supply the local demand, but could and will ultimately, -export pork products to all of the Latin American countries bordering on -the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico. - -Hogs breed twice a year in Cuba, and the climate, free from extremes of -heat or cold, enables probably a larger percentage of the young to be -brought to maturity, with less care and less risk, than in any section -of the United States. Science today has rendered it possible to -eliminate the danger from contagious disease to pork; hence it is that -raising of small stock, especially hogs, under the supervision of -intelligent management, is bound to prove one of the most remunerative -industries of this country. - -Hogs were introduced into Cuba from Spain by the early Spanish settlers, -but no effort was made either to improve the breed by selection or even -to prevent its retrograding through lack of care and good food. Nearly -all hogs raised in Cuba, even at the present time, are permitted to run -in droves in the forests and foothills of the thinly settled sections, -as did their ancestors four centuries ago. - -Even the owners of these droves have but little idea of the number of -hogs belonging to them. Monteros, or forest men, are hired to herd them, -which is done with the assistance of dogs. The hogs in this way are -followed from place to place where the forests may furnish natural food -for the mothers and their progeny. As a rule, at evening each day, the -montero or herder, in order to keep up a partial contact between him and -his drove, carries a few ears of corn slung over his shoulder in a sack, -or to the saddle of his horse. This he shells and drops as he rides -along the narrow trails of the forest, uttering at the same time a -peculiar cry or call, heard in the mountain jungles of the hog -districts, when the monteros are coaxing their herds out into the open, -so that they may catch a glimpse of them before they dodge back into the -leafy glades of the interior. - -This semi-savage breed of hogs of course would cause a smile if seen on -a first-class stock farm in the United States. He is usually black in -color, long and lank, resembling very much the "razor back," once common -in the southern part of the United States. He is prolific, a good -fighter, and hustles for his own living, since nothing is provided for -him excepting what he picks up in the forest. This, however, is pretty -good feed. - -The royal palm that covers many of the hillsides and slopes of the long -mountain chains throughout Cuba, produces a small nut called palmiche, -which furnishes a never-failing food and aids the stock man greatly in -raising hogs. The palmiche, picked up by the animals at the base of the -palms or cut by the monteros, who with the assistance of a rope easily -climb these tall smooth barked ornaments of the forest, will keep -animals in fairly good condition throughout the year. - -The palmiche, however, although only about the size of the kernel of a -hazel nut, is very hard, and much of it is rather indigestible. This -nut, when ground and pressed yields about 20% of excellent oil, either -for lubricating or commercial purposes, while the residue of the nut, or -pressed cake of the palmiche, from which the worthless part has been -separated previous to grinding, owing to its rich content of protein and -oil, furnishes an easily digested and splendid food. - -The recent demand for oil has resulted in the introduction of a number -of presses in Cuba since the beginning of the European War, and the -palmiche cake is being placed on the market as a stock food product. In -this form it is quite probable that a valuable adjunct will soon be -added to the other natural foods of the country. - -Palmiche fed pork in Cuba, or for that matter wherever it has been -eaten, is considered a greater delicacy than any other pork in the -world, and in this Island is preferred to either turkey or chicken. This -is owing to the peculiar nutty flavor which the palmiche imparts to the -meat of the forest-bred hog. Young palmiche fed pork, known as lechon, -roasted over a hardwood or charcoal fire, during the holidays of -Christmas and New Year's in Havana, readily retails at 75 to $1 per -pound, and little roasting pigs at that time of the year will bring from -five to ten dollars each. - -The pork industry, however, in Cuba, to be really successful should be -conducted along lines similar to those of the United States. Excellent -food can be provided for hogs, fresh and sweet at all times of the year, -simply by planting the various crops with reference to the season and -period needed for feeding. Among those foods best adapted to sows and -growing pigs in Cuba are peanuts, cow peas, sweet potatoes, sugar cane, -calabasa or pumpkins, chufas, malanga, and other root crops peculiar to -the country. For topping off, or putting into condition, shoats for six -weeks before being sent to market should be fed on either corn or yucca, -or both. - -The latter, yucca, is one of the best root crops grown in the Island -for fattening hogs. The tuber, some three or four feet in length, with a -diameter of three or four inches, comes from a closely jointed plant -that at maturity varies in height from three to five feet. The stalk of -these plants, if cut into short joints, and planted in furrows about -three feet apart, produces its crop of tubers in about twelve months, -although the yield will increase for five or six months after this. The -yucca tubers are covered with a cocoanut brown peel, while the inside, -consisting of almost pure starch, is white as milk. - -Yucca will produce a splendid, firm fat on pork in a very short time, -and has the advantage over corn in the fact that the weight of the crop, -from an acre of land, varies from four to twelve tons, according to the -quality of the soil, and hogs delight in harvesting the crop themselves. - -At the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas may be seen many -excellent breeds of hogs that were introduced from the United States -some years ago. Among these are found the Duroc or Jersey Red, the -Hampshire, the Chester White, the Berkshire and Tamworth, all of which -under the favorable conditions found at the Station have done remarkably -well. Interesting experiments on the various foods of the Island, and -their adaptability as food for hogs, are being carried on there -throughout the year. Those breeds which seem to give the greatest -promise, up to the present, are the Duroc and the Hampshire. Some very -interesting animals have been produced from crosses between Hampshires, -Durocs and Tamworths, the shoulder mark or saddle band of the Hampshire -being prominent in all of its crosses. - -The population of Cuba is rapidly approaching three millions, and no -people in the world are more addicted to the use of pork in all its -forms than those not only in Cuba but in all the Latin American -Republics lying to the west and south of the Caribbean. The hog industry -at the present time does not begin to supply the local demand, and -probably will not for some years to come. Fresh pork before the European -war seldom varied throughout the year from the standard price of ten -cents per pound on the hoof, while hams imported from the United States -brought twenty-five cents at wholesale in Havana. - -With the use of dams and turbines, power can be easily secured from the -many mountain streams with which to furnish refrigeration and cold -storage, and there is no reason why a pork-packing industry, combining -the curing of hams, shoulders, etc., should not be carried on -successfully. Branches of large packing houses in the United States have -long imported their hams and shoulders, in brine, afterwards smoking -them in Cuba. Experts in pork packing soon discovered that most of the -small hard woods of the Cuban forests were splendidly adapted for -smoking meat, giving it a piquant and aromatic flavor, pleasing to the -taste. - -With the large local demand for hams, shoulders, bacon, etc., a -profitable business is assured from the beginning, while the proximity -of so many Latin Republics south and west of the Caribbean render the -prospect of the export trade very promising. - -Owing to the genial climate, sheep in Cuba, lacking the necessity for -wool with which to retain warmth, very naturally lose it within a -comparatively few years. Mutton, however, always commands a good price -in the local markets, hence it is that the raising of sheep for food, -especially by those small farmers who are close to large markets, will -always yield a satisfactory return. - -The large hotels of Havana, especially during the tourist season, are -compelled to supply mutton of good quality to their guests, and since -the local supply is not sufficient, a considerable amount of this -excellent food is imported, dressed, from the United States. In this -latitude, where green grass may be found in abundance throughout the -year, sheep may be profitably raised and used in many ways. They are -close grazers and will keep down the heavy growth of grass in citrus -fruit groves, and also along the roadsides and in the surface drains -that border hundreds of miles of automobile drives scattered throughout -the Island. - -Thousands of dollars are expended by the Department of Public Works -every year in cutting out this rank growth of grass, so that the flow of -water in the ditches may not be impeded. This work could undoubtedly be -done by sheep, and a great deal of manual labor be saved, if the system -of roadside grazing was once introduced into this country. Sheep are -found in small numbers throughout all parts of the Island, and up to the -present the Government has made no attempt to register them. - -So far no discrimination has been used in introducing those breeds of -sheep best suited for the production of mutton. That which the Island -has is usually tender, and of excellent flavor, and if small farmers -would take the trouble to import good rams from desirable breeds in the -United States, the raising of mutton, even as a side issue, would add -greatly to the revenue of farms located near large consuming centers. - -The Republic of Mexico for many years has derived a very large revenue -from the sale of goat skins, most of which were purchased by the New -England shoe factories, while the by-products in the form of salted and -sun dried meat, fat and other materials, always command a market. Recent -years of devastation, however, have practically annihilated all of the -great herds once so profitable, since for three or four years they -furnished food to the roving bands of different contestants in that -unfortunate country. - -In the various mountain chains, foothills and fertile ravines of Cuba -are hundreds of thousands of acres of forest land, in much of which -sufficient sunlight enters to permit of new growth, the tender shoots of -which are preferred by both goats and deer to any other food in the -world. More than all, the goat is by nature a hill climber, and is never -content until he gains the nearest ascent from which he can look down on -his companions below. - -For many years to come, most of these vast ranges will be unfenced and -free, and the keeping of the goats will require nothing more than a -herder with a couple of good dogs for every thousand head. With this -excellent food that can serve no other purpose, and the splendid water -of mountain streams, the goat industry in Cuba could not fail to be -profitable, and yet the raising of goats has never been considered there -commercially. - -Under the management of men who are familiar with the raising of goats -for their hides, and by-products, there is no reason why this industry -should not assume importance in Cuba, especially since these animals are -invaluable for cleaning out undergrowth economically and effectively. - -Although it is a well established fact that the Angora goat will thrive -in any country that is not low and damp, with the exception a few pairs -of Angoras, that were introduced at the Experimental Station at Santiago -de las Vegas some years ago, the breeding of this variety of goat has -never attracted the attention which it deserves. Those of the station, -although not located under the ideal conditions which prevail in the -mountains, have nevertheless fulfilled the reputation which this animal -enjoys in other parts of the world. - -The Angora, unlike the sheep, does not lose or drop its beautiful silky -fleece when introduced into a warm climate. It is, however, desirable to -shear the mohair twice a year instead of once, in order to avoid loss -that might come from pushing its way through heavy underbrush in the -mountains. In raising or breeding this variety of goat, where the long -fine fleece is the chief source of income, provision should be made for -rounding up and coralling the herd each night, in order to insure -against the possibility of loss from dogs or theft, although the goat -himself is an excellent fighter, and stoutly resents the intrusion of -any enemy. - -Under favorable circumstances the annual increase of kids will amount to -100% of the number of ewes in the flock. The young bucks, of course, -when a year old may be sold at a profit, as is the ordinary goat, but -since the finest yield of hair comes from the younger animals, it would -seem ill advised to dispose of them until at least five or six years -old. - -The average price of a good angora ewe for breeding purposes is about -$15, and the value of the mohair has been increasing steadily for the -past ten years. Its price, of course, depends on the length and fineness -of the fleece, and varies at the present time from 75 to $1 per pound. -When it is considered that a good angora will produce five or six pounds -of fleece each year, and that the entire expense is practically that of -herding and clipping, the profit of the business is apparent. On the -basis of a six-pound yield to each goat, and an average price of -83-1/3, a revenue of $12,000 would be derived from a herd of 2,400 -goats that would cost $36,000; or in other words the net returns would -exceed 25% on the capital invested. - -Aside from a sufficient amount of land on which to establish night -corrals, and the purchase of a few good collie dogs, there need be no -other initial expense than that of the purchase of breeding animals -themselves. Good herders can be readily secured at a salary of $50 per -month and the feeding range is not only free but practically unlimited. - -When it is considered that the angora, when living on high lands, with -plentiful food and water, is free from disease, and that the capital -stock is multiplying at the rate of 50% per year, with an overhead -expense that may be considered as almost nothing, and an absolutely -assured market at good prices for the mohair, the raising and breeding -of angora goats would seem to be a very profitable investment in Cuba. - -The deer of Cuba, while resembling in color, general form and -configuration of antlers the deer of Florida, is somewhat smaller in -size, the average height of the buck at the shoulders being only about -three feet. Although hunted considerably during the open season, they -are still very plentiful in Cuba, and if not chased by dogs soon become -quite tame. - -If deer parks or reserves were established in the mountains where these -animals could be confined, cared for and bred, a market for venison -could undoubtedly be found in the United States, while many city parks -and zoological gardens would find them interesting and ornamental as an -exhibit of the Cervidae family from Cuba. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII - -POULTRY: BEES: SPONGES - - -Notwithstanding the fact that several millions a year are expended by -the people of the Republic in bringing poultry and eggs to Cuba, no -steps were taken towards what might be termed systematic poultry raising -until American colonists began experimenting with different breeds -brought from the United States during the first Government of -Intervention. And even since that time there are very few who have -carried on really scientific experiments towards determining what -varieties of chickens may give the best results in this country. - -In regard to breeds it would seem that the Rhode Island Red has the -preference in Cuba, although many others, including the Wyandotte, -Plymouth Rock and Orpington, as well as the Black Minorcan and other -Mediterranean breeds, have their advocates here as in the United States. - -The native hen of the Island sprang probably from some Mediterranean -breed, that through lack of care has sadly degenerated. She is rather -prolific as a layer, however, and asks no assistance in finding her own -food, nor will a quarter of a mile flight give her the slightest -difficulty. - -The one breed that has been given a very high degree of attention in -Cuba is the fighting cock, whose value may run anywhere from $5 to $100 -or more. On these is bestowed more care than is received by any prize -chicken in the north. They are serviceable, of course, only for purposes -of sport, fighting chickens being a favorite pastime of the country -people in all Latin American countries. The native hen of Cuba, when -crossed with well bred Rhode Island Red or Plymouth Rock roosters, -produces a very good all around chicken, which will thrive even under -adverse conditions. - -In the fall of 1915, President Menocal imported from the United States -several thousand excellent hens for experimental and breeding purposes. -These are installed in modern poultry houses on his farm, "El Chico," -only a few miles from the City of Havana, and have done very well. - -Turkeys, too, do remarkably well in Cuba when given free range, and they -are not subject to those ills which result from sleet, snow and chilling -winds that decimate the little ones in most parts of the United States. - -Cuba seems to be the natural home of the Guinea hen since those foods -which this fowl likes best are found in all parts of the Island, and in -many sections Guineas have escaped from domestication, taken to the -forest and formed great flocks of both white and grey varieties. These -furnish splendid wing shooting to those who enjoy the sport. - -In view of the rapidly increasing demand for Guinea pullets in all of -the big hotels in the United States, where they seem to be taking the -place of the prairie chicken of the past, it would seem that the raising -of Guinea hens for the American market should certainly prove extremely -profitable. Fields of the short or white millet planted on any farm will -serve to keep them satisfied, and at the same time diminish the tendency -to wander away from home. In a country where neither shelter or food is -needed, and where the birds command very remunerative prices, Guinea -raising ought to be tempting. - -Very few have gone into poultry raising along scientific or intelligent -lines, which seems rather odd when we consider that fresh eggs vary in -price from four to five cents, under normal conditions, all the year -round, and chickens of the most scrawny type bring from sixty cents to -one dollar. - -The poultry business offers many advantages in Cuba; first of which may -be mentioned, an excellent local market for both chickens and eggs; -second, that green food and insects may be found in abundance throughout -the year; that open or wire screen houses alone are necessary for -protection, the necessity for artificial heat being, of course, non -existent. - -In a country free from frost and where flowers bloom more or less -continuously throughout the year, we might expect to find and do find a -Bee paradise. Often, in seeking shelter either from a tropical sun or a -threatening shower, in the shade of one of the Magotes of Pinar del Rio, -or while passing through the deep, rock-walled pass of the Paredones, in -the Sierra de Cubitas, one will find pools of a strange looking -substance in the dust at his feet. Investigation discloses the fact that -it is honey, fallen from overhanging rocks where wild bees have made -their homes in the cavities above, the warmth of the sun having melted -an overfilled comb so that the honey collected at the foot of the cliff -below. - -Native wild bees are very plentiful in Cuba, and strange to say possess -no sting, but produce a honey that is very sweet. During the latter part -of the 16th century a German variety of bee was introduced, from the -Spanish colony of Saint Augustine, Florida. About the middle of the 19th -century the Italian bee was introduced, and is probably more productive -of honey than any other in Cuba. With the coming of American colonists -in 1900, modern hives were introduced and the business of gathering and -exporting both honey and wax was systematized for the first time. - -Many large apiaries exist, especially in the province of Pinar del Rio. -Those who devote their time to the culture of bees naturally seek the -various localities where flowers are plentiful, sometimes moving the -hives from one section to another in order to take advantage of the -presence of honey-bearing flowers in various localities. The bloom of -the royal palm, so plentifully scattered over the Island, especially in -those mountainous districts where the soil is deep and rich, furnishes -an excellent food for bees, as do the morning glory, the flowering -majagua and hundreds of other plants whose local Spanish names cannot be -interpreted. - -In the location of bee colonies the character and quantity of the food -is a matter of prime importance. The honey yielding flowers, on which -the bees depend for their sustenance, vary greatly with the locality, -especially with its proximity to the coast or to the mountains. The -sources of wax, too, vary greatly with the location. As an illustration, -foundation comb in Cuba should never be supplied to bees located near -the coast, since experience has proved that they will build up comb much -faster near the coast without the assistance of artificial foundation. - -The quality of honey, too, depends much upon the nature of the flowers -found in any given locality. In the interior nearly all honey is of -excellent quality, while on the coast, quite a large percentage will -lack more or less in flavor, and is almost subject to danger from -fermentation. It has been noted too that colonies in the interior, when -young queens are available, will swarm, even when not crowded for room; -whereas on the coast bees do not swarm so readily, probably because they -have such an abundance of wax with which to build comb. - -During the month of January bees secure an abundance of food throughout -the interior from the Aguinaldo Blanco, or white morning-glory. On the -coast a large amount of honey is derived from the bloom of a small tree, -not botanically classified, during a short period of seldom more than a -week. In February, throughout the interior, bees derive large quantities -of honey from flowers of the Rapitingua and from the Mango, while on the -coast, during this month, food is not abundant. - -In March, throughout the interior, the flowers of many fruit trees, -found wild in the forest, give an abundance of honey, while on the coast -the Roble Blanco, or so called white oak, furnishes food. In April, in -the interior, food is derived from many plants then in bloom, while on -the coast the flowers of the Salsa, Pelotajo, Bacuaya and the Guana -Palm furnish an abundance of food. The months of May and June, in the -interior, contribute comparatively few honey yielding flowers, while on -the coast the mangroves, the Guana Palm, and one or two other plants -yield food in great quantities. - -In July and August the scarcity of honey bearing flowers continues in -the interior while on the coast the Guamo yields food. In September and -October, throughout the interior, honey is derived from the Toruga and a -few other flowers. On the coast, during these months, the same flowers -yield honey but in less quantity. In the months of November and -December, throughout the interior, a heavy flow of honey is derived from -a plant known as the Bellflower, while on the coast at this season, food -is scarce. - -Where groves of citrus fruit abound excellent honey is derived from the -flowers of the orange and grape fruit throughout much of the winter. - -As a result of experience in apiculture during the past fifteen years, -$2 per hive is the average annual income derived when located under -favorable circumstances. One bee keeper who cares for a colony of 1200 -hives has found that by adding 25 to 30 pounds of sugar towards the -support of each hive, during the months when food is scarce, this -average of $2 per hive in annual profit is increased to $5 and even -more. - -The exportation of wax for the fiscal year 1916-17 amounted to -approximately 1,300,000 pounds, valued at $340,000. Of this amount about -a million pounds was exported to the United States, while 300,000 pounds -went to Great Britain. In the same year over 12,000,000 pounds of honey -were shipped abroad, valued at $650,000. Nearly 10,000,000 pounds of -this went to the United States, Great Britain taking the larger part of -the remainder. - -Most of the honey exported from Cuba is strained and sells in bulk for -about five cents per pound. To those fond of bees, apiculture in Cuba -will always form for the settler a source of added pleasure and profit, -especially in those sections where coffee, cacao and citrus fruit form -the chief source of income. - -Next to the Bahama Islands, surrounded as they are by hundreds of square -miles of shoal water, the shores of Cuba probably produce more good -sponges than any other part of the western hemisphere. In the quiet -waters protected by out-lying barrier reefs that in places stretch for -hundreds of miles along the shores of Cuba, many varieties of sponges -are found. The longest of the sponge zones is found in the shallow -waters protected by the Islands and reefs that stretch along the north -coast of Cuba from Punta Hicaco opposite Cardenas, to the harbor of -Nuevitas, some 300 miles east. Both sponges and green turtles are found -here but never have been extensively hunted except by the Bahama -Islanders, who before the inauguration of the Cuban revenue service used -to sneak across the old Bahama Channel in the darkness of the night and -back of the uninhabited keys reap rich rewards in the sponge fields of -the northern coast. - -Batabano on the south coast, opposite the city of Havana, is the great -center of the sponge fisheries that cover the shallow flats between the -mainland and the Isle of Pines and extend from the Bay of Cochinos in -the east to the extreme western terminus of the Island at Cape San -Antonio. - -The domestic consumption of sponges in Cuba is very large and in the -year 1916-17 only 261,800 pounds were exported which had a value of -$230,000. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII - -PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST - - -To the lover of romance or student of history, few spots in the western -hemisphere, perhaps, have greater charm and interest than Morro Castle, -high perched on the promontory that guards the eastern entrance of -Havana Harbor. Seen at early dawn from the open port of an entering -steamer, its great, rugged, picturesque bulk seems to assemble from the -spectral mists of a legendary past, while all those intensely dramatic -scenes of which El Morro has been the center, pass before one like the -dreamy reality of a moving picture play. - -Resurrected from the tales of centuries, gone and almost forgotten, one -sees the lonely old watch tower that back in the early days of the 16th -century stood guard on the hill top of Morro, so that the pirates and -cruel rovers of the sea during those days of greed, lust and crime, -could not take the little community of Havana unawares. Then come the -later days, when the ever recurring wars of Europe cast their ugly -shadows over even remote points on the western shore of the Atlantic, -and corsairs of foreign nations were ever anxious to pounce on the Pearl -of the Antilles, and seize within the harbor some of the rich Spanish -galleons, laden with Aztec gold and loot. - -Through this panorama of the past comes the picture of England's fleet -of 200 ships manned by 32,000 men under Albemarle and Pococke, lying in -a semicircle off the entrance of the harbor, with old Morro now well -equipped for battle. Its thick walls, rugged embattlements, fighting -turrets, embrasures, emergency bridges, powder magazines, store rooms, -ammunition dumps, secret passages and dark dungeons, and bristling guns, -were Spain's chief bulwark in the defense of Havana. Solid shot and -shell from a thousand guns crisscrossed between sea and land, and in the -center of the turmoil, defending the fort and the honor of Spain, stood -one courageous young officer, Commander Luis Velasco, surrounded by a -little group of volunteers, who had sworn to hold the fort or die in its -defense. - -[Illustration: PABLO DESVERNINE. - -Born in Havana in 1854, and educated at the University of Havana and at -Columbia University, New York, Pablo Desvernine y Galdos has long ranked -among the foremost members of the Cuban bar. During General Brooke's -Military Governorship at the beginning of the first American -intervention he was Secretary of Finance; he was President of the -Agricultural Expositions of 1911 and 1912; was Minister to the United -States in 1913; and in 1914 was made by President Menocal Secretary of -State. Since 1900 he has been Professor of Civil Law in the University -of Havana. He is the author of several works on Civil and International -Law.] - -Then, after a month of continuous fighting, came the note from the -British, stating that El Morro was undermined and an offer of 24 hours -in which to surrender, and Velasco's reply, in which he informed his -enemy that the match might be applied and the walls blown up, but within -the breach he would be found still defending the castle. - -The mine was exploded and the south wall torn asunder, while Velasco, -fighting to the last, received the wound that sent him over the Great -Divide and soon brought to an end Havana's defense against the British. -Imagination easily recalls the salute of cannon on the following day, -announcing the death of one of Spain's most courageous fighters, while -every shot of the defending guns was echoed by one of the British ships, -firing as a tribute to the courage of the young officer who had defied -their entire fleet for nearly a month. - -Morro was begun in 1589 by the Italian engineer, J. Bautista Antonelli, -and completed in 1597. Little change has occurred during the last two -centuries, and its rugged old walls will probably continue to resist the -winter storms of the Gulf for centuries to come. Many of Cuba's patriots -and heroic figures have been confined in the dungeons of Morro, -including the first President of the Republic, that kind hearted, genial -old gentleman of letters, Don Tomas Estrada Palma, who died the victim -of base ingratitude on the part of men for whose freedom and happiness -he had devoted all of the best years of his life. - -El Morro is still occupied, as in the olden days, by the coast artillery -of Cuba, and is well worth a trip across the bay, where one may pass a -pleasant afternoon in interesting introspection, and enjoy at the same -time one of the most delightful views of land and sea from any point in -the West Indies. - -Just within the entrance, and on the shore at the foot of Morro, are -located 12 huge, old-time muzzle loading cannon, known as the Twelve -Apostles, that sweep the opposite shore and were supposed to render -impossible the entrance of any hostile ship, or any effort to cut away -the heavy iron cable that in earlier days stretched across the entrance -to the harbor from El Morro to the fortress of La Punta on the other -side. These curious old iron guns, dedicated to the saints, were cast by -Don Juan Francisco de Guenes and installed by him in the form of a -crescent, that boded destruction to all invaders from the sea. - -Some 500 yards further east, along the coast, is installed a similar -group of cannon, 12 in number, that forms a battery known as La Pastora. -These guns were made by Francisco Cagigal de la Vega and were placed on -the lower shelf of the outside coast at a point not easily seen from the -sea where they were supposed to render a forced entrance to the bay -practically impossible. - -A little further within the narrow entrance to the harbor of Havana, and -stretching for a half a mile along the eastern shore, lies the largest -and most impressive ancient fort of the western hemisphere. This -fortress is known as la Cabaa, owing to the fact that several cabins -once stood along this ridge, some 200 feet in height, overlooking the -City of Havana. La Cabaa is massive in its structure, built of stone -and earth on the crest of the ridge, with a steep descent to the water's -edge. It is surrounded on all sides by a wide deep moat, across which no -enemy, even in modern times, could possibly pass. The destruction of the -fort with high explosives and long range guns would, of course, be -easily accomplished, but as an example of 18th century military -engineering and architecture, it has no rival in the western world. Some -50 acres are covered with the walls, patios, surface and underground -dungeons, prisons, buildings, moats and outer defenses of this -fortification. - -The work was begun on November 4, 1763, shortly after the evacuation of -Havana by the British, and was concluded in 1774. The cost of the work -is said to have been $14,000,000, although much of it was probably done -by slaves, for whose services little or nothing was paid, nor could the -value of their labor be easily estimated. The same engineer Antonelli, -of Italian origin, who built El Morro, displayed his military genius in -the plans of La Cabaa. - -The original approach of this fortress was over a cobbled path that -wound up a steep incline, from a little landing opposite the foot of -O'Reilly Street, terminating finally in the southern opening to the -moat. This path was known during the long years of the Ten Years' War, -and the War of Independence, as "El Camino sin Esperanza" or the Road -without Hope, since those who climbed its winding way as prisoners -seldom descended to the plain below, unless in rude boxes on the way to -their last resting place. Even this privilege was denied to the great -majority of political prisoners who were executed under the laurels that -shade the first part of the moat. - -This wide deep moat, varying in width from sixty to a hundred feet, with -a depth that will average fifty, extends from one end of the fortress to -the other, paralleling the harbor on which it fronts, and separating the -main body of the fortress from well planned and easily defended outer -works. Stone stairways were built at different places against the walls -of these outer ramparts to facilitate the movement of troops in defense -of the citadel, but with wide gaps crossed by wooden bridges that once -knocked away would render the stairways useless to the enemy. - -A few hundred feet beyond the avenue of laurels, and close by an opening -of the wall into the main fortress, a bronze placque, some six feet by -twelve, marks one of the places where political prisoners were executed -throughout the latter half of the 19th century. The bronze was cast in -France and represents the execution of a group of insurgent soldiers. In -the left half of the placque is represented a squad of Spanish soldiers -in the act of firing. Above all floats the figure of an angel -endeavoring to shield the martyrs who are giving up their lives for the -cause of Cuban Liberty. - -Passing through this great eastern wall of the citadel the visitor steps -into an interior, grass covered court, several hundred feet in length by -eighty or more in width. Along the southern end of the court may be seen -the remnant of a painted line at about the height of a man's breast. On -this spot, it is said, over a thousand men were executed during the -period of the Ten Years' War and the three years' War of Independence. -Most of the old line has been dug away by knife points of visitors in -search of bullets that were imbedded in the wall during the many -executions that took place at its base. At the further, or northern end -of this tranquil plot of ground, heavily barred iron gates cover a -series of steps which formed an emergency entrance from the moat into -the main body of the fortress. - -A quarter of a mile further north, along the main extension of the moat, -is a wide wooden bridge that connects the outer ramparts with the -citadel, the roadway passing through a massive and impressive gate or -portal, over which a carved inscription gives the dates in which the -work was begun and concluded, together with the name of its founders and -the Spanish officers in command at the time of its construction. - -The grounds within are ample for military drill and instruction and are -well equipped for the care and maintenance of a defending force. When -Spain's army retired from Cuba in the last days of 1899, both Cabaas -and Morro presented a very different appearance from that of today. Long -lines of cells had been built into the stone walls, in which hundreds, -if not thousands, of political prisoners had spent years of -confinement. Each of these dreary, cheerless abodes was about 30 feet in -width by 60 in length, with a low arched ceiling and massive barred -doors, facing the west. - -Each cell was supposed to accommodate fifty men, and some of them -contained long parallel wooden bars, between which prisoners might swing -hammocks if they were fortunate enough to possess them. Many men -prominent in Cuban political and military life have occupied these cells -of Cabaas and also those of its companion, El Morro. General Julio -Sanguily, among others, passed three years in cell No. 57, until, -through the urgent intercession of the American Government, he was -finally set at liberty and permitted to enter the United States, of -which he claimed citizenship. - -Stretching along the western face of the fortress is a wide stone -parapet overlooking the bay and the City of Havana opposite. Planted on -its surface is a long line of interesting brass cannon, ornamented with -Spanish coats of arms and bearing inscriptions that tell of their making -in Seville, at various periods throughout the 18th century. These cannon -are used today for saluting purposes when foreign men of war enter the -harbor on friendly visits. - -Near the center of the citadel stood a small stone chapel that would -accommodate 50 or 100 men. Near one end was built a round pagoda-like -altar before which the condemned could kneel in prayer during their last -night on earth, since those who entered its tragic portals well knew -that at sunrise the following morning they would face the firing squad -that would pass them on to eternity. This historically tragic apartment -has recently been converted into a moving picture hall for the benefit -of Cuban soldiers who are at present stationed in Cabaas. - -Visitors at Cabaas during normal times of peace will find soldier -guides quite willing to carry one down into the subterranean depths of -the fortress and along the narrow dark passageways that were tunneled -into the earth, supposedly to detect possible mining operations of the -enemy from the outside. During the War of Independence, however, -extending from 1895 to 1899, these underground tunnels were occupied by -prisoners, most of whom dying in the dismal depths were given burials so -shallow by their companions, who must have dug the graves with their -fingers, that in passing along by lantern light, shortly after American -occupation, one frequently stumbled over skulls and bones that protruded -from the earthen floor below. - -The aspect of Cabaas today, with its well cleaned, whitewashed walls, -with its comfortable officers' quarters and shady grounds, is quite -cheerful, and one can hardly believe that less than a quarter of a -century ago Cabaas fortress was one of the modern horrors that cried -out to the civilized world for the abolition of Spanish control in -America. - -Occupying the low rocky ledge immediately opposite Morro is the -picturesque little fort known as the Castillo de Punta, or Fortress on -the Point, begun in 1589, and intended to complete the protection to the -entrance of the harbor. The style of architecture is identical with that -of El Morro, but far less pretentious in size and plan. The fort is -protected from the sea by several outlying shelves of coral rock, and -was at one time surrounded by a moat as was La Fuerza, the first stone -fortress constructed in the Western Hemisphere. The walls are not over -20 feet in height and over the main entrance a tablet gives the name of -Governor-General Tejada, during whose period of office it was built, -together with the date of its construction. - -La Punta afforded efficient aid to its companion El Morro, on the -opposite side of the bay, during the siege by the English in 1762, and -in one corner of the reception room may be seen the fragment of an iron -shell, fired from the British fleet during the siege of Havana. - -La Punta is the headquarters of the Navy Department. Its presence at the -angle of the Prado and the Gulf Avenue, that extends west along the sea -shore, is a quiet but efficient reminder of the olden days when -fortresses of this type formed the only protection enjoyed by the people -who were then residents of the capital of Cuba. - -Until the middle of the 19th century, Havana, like nearly all of the -capitals built by Spanish conquerors in the Western Hemisphere, was a -walled city. These walls were built of coral limestone quarried along -the sea front, which with exposure to the atmosphere becomes quite hard. -The same engineering ability demonstrated by the builders of El Morro, -Cabanas and La Punta, was evident in the 17th century wall, that had the -fortress of La Punta as its starting point and ran in practically a -straight line south until it reached the shores of the Bay near its -southwestern terminus. - -These walls were about 12 feet through at the base and some 20 feet in -height. Throughout the entire line was a series of salients, bastions, -flanks and curtains that were dominant features in the military -architecture of those times. At the top were parapets on which the -garrison gathered for the defense of the City. - -Work on the walls began with a body of 9,000 peons in 1633 and a -contribution of $20,000 in gold that was exacted by order of the Spanish -Crown from the rich treasuries of Mexico in order to hurry its -completion. Only two gates were constructed at first, one of these at La -Punta and the other at the head of Muralla Street, which latter formed -the main or principal entrance for commercial purposes. A third was -afterwards opened near the corner of the old Arsenal for the convenience -of people engaged in ship building at that point. - -Extending along the water front were gradually built continuations of -this wall with coral ledges forming a solid base. These eventually -closed the city on all sides. This stupendous work was not completed -until 1740, and even after this date occasional additions were made for -purposes of better defense. Although the Spanish treasury at that time -was being filled with gold from Mexico and Peru, it would seem that the -Crown was very loath to part with the money, and compelled the colonies -of the Western Hemisphere to build their own defenses and to make -whatever improvements they considered necessary, either from -contributions levied on commerce, or with the use of slaves whose -services their owners were compelled to furnish at their own expense. - -Up to the departure of Spain's army from Havana in 1899, sections of the -old wall, several blocks in length, extending through the heart of the -city, still remained intact. These, with their salients, bastions, -flanks, etc., formed an interesting landmark of the olden days, when -Spanish knights clad in hauberks and hose, donned their breastplates and -plumed helmets to fight against the British who besieged the city in -1763. Today only one short section remains, a picturesque remnant of the -past, with its little round, dome-covered watch tower still intact. This -is located just north of the Presidential palace on the crest of the -green lawn that slopes away towards La Punta, about a third of a mile -distant. - -Near the landing place at the foot of O'Reilly Street, used by visiting -officials and officers of the Navy, stands La Fuerza. On this site was -built the first permanent or stone defense of the city in 1538. The -original walls and fortifications have seen many changes since that date -but one cannot look at them without recalling the pathetic figure of -Dona Isabel de Bobadilla, who in 1539, on the drawbridge of La Fuerza, -where she and her husband, Hernando de Soto, had lived, said "Adios," as -with an army of 900 men and 350 horses, he set out for the conquest of -Florida "and all the territory that might lie beyond." - -Day after day, for more than two years, it is said, this faithful wife -walked the parapets of La Fuerza straining her eyes to see his flagship -arise above the horizon of the Gulf, and when at last a storm beaten -bark brought back a few survivors of the expedition, whose leader had -hoped to rival if not surpass the deeds of Cortez in Mexico, or Pizarro -in Peru, she learned that her lord and lover would return no more, that -even his body would never be recovered from the yellow waters of the -Mississippi. It was then that her soul, too, sank into the sea of -despair and soon joined its companion on the shore beyond. - -The dark dungeons of La Fuerza have held hundreds of Cuban patriots -until death or deportation to Africa brought relief. The old stone steps -descending to the ground floor are worn into veritable pockets by the -tramp of feet during a continual occupancy of almost 400 years. Every -outer wall, parapet, alcove and dungeon, if able to speak, "could a tale -unfold." Now all is silent save the sound of an occasional bugle, the -music of the artillery band, or the laughter of children playing on the -green lawn that separates it from the Senate Chamber. - -The first church built on the Puerto de Carenas, as the Harbor of Havana -was called by the founders of the city, was of adobe, roofed with yagua -from the guana palm. This was destroyed in 1538 by the pirates. Owing to -the extreme poverty of the inhabitants, and to the fact that in spite of -the wealth controlled by the churches of the mother country its -representatives in the Western Hemisphere, especially in the City of -Havana, were left to shift for themselves, and very few contributions -for church building came across the seas to Cuba--it being assumed -evidently that the people of a community deserved no better church than -their financial means justified--it was not until well into the 17th -century that churches were constructed that would at all compare with -the beautiful ecclesiastical structures of Europe. Most of those of -Havana, that were built during the 17th and 18th centuries, resemble, -both in material and architecture, the rather heavy, ponderous and so -called Gothic style that prevailed throughout the Latin American world. - -Immediately back of the old Presidential Palace, former headquarters of -the Captains General of Spain, stands the former convent and church of -Santo Domingo, whose erection was due to the liberality of the Conde de -Casa Bayamo, whose picture until recently hung in the sacristy. This -building occupied the block of ground between O'Reilly and Obispo and -Mercaderes and San Ignacio Streets. It was reconstructed in 1738 and -became the Royal University of Havana. When the University was -transferred to the beautiful site on the heights of Principe, -overlooking Havana from the west, this old relic of bygone ages, with -its ponderous walls and picturesque patio, became the Institute of -Havana, where students still receive that which in English would be -equivalent to a high school education. One portion of the square is -today used as a police station, while the church itself, with its crude -stone figures of saints standing in relief from the outer walls, is -practically abandoned and will probably soon be removed, for the modest -type of sky-scraper or office building that is becoming quite common -throughout the city. - -The cathedral, one of the largest and most imposing of the churches of -Havana, was built by the Jesuits, on the north edge of the old basin or -arm of the Bay that extended from the present shore along the line of -the street now known as Empedrado, as far west as the little San Juan de -Dios Park. This church is built of the tough coral limestone used in -nearly all of the important buildings that stood within the walls of old -Havana. The church, together with the convent and offices in the rear, -is in the form of an irregular quadrangle, covering about a block of -ground, the rear facing the bay itself. The architecture is of the -so-called Gothic that prevails in all of the old-time churches and -convents of the Island. Owing to the fact that, up to 1899, it contained -the bones of Christopher Columbus, this building has always been one of -the prominent places of interest in the city. A tablet in marble, over -the entrance on San Ignacio Street, states that it was consecrated by -his Excellency, Pedro Agustin Morel de Santa Cruz, Bishop of Havana, on -September 8, 1755. This church was declared the Cathedral of Havana in -1789. - -The former tomb of Columbus was located in a niche built for the purpose -on the west side of the altar. When the Spanish forces departed from the -Island in 1899, at the request of the Pope the remains of Columbus were -removed from their long resting place in the Cathedral and carried to -Seville, Spain, where they are at present interred. The interior of the -edifice, although not as elaborately decorated as are some of the other -churches, is nevertheless imposing and well worth a few moments pause to -the passing visitor. - -The San Francisco Convent, one of the oldest churches of Havana, was -completed by Order of the Franciscans in 1591. A part of the hard coral -shore that formed the western edge of the bay, a few blocks south of the -Plaza de Armas, formed a solid foundation for the original building -which, owing to faulty material and construction, lapsed into ruins in -1719. In 1738 the structure which now occupies the spot was built under -the direction of Bishop Juan Lazo. The tower of the Church proper is -considered one of the best samples of ecclesiastic architecture in -Havana. This building fronts on Oficios Street and extends from the -Plaza of San Francisco south for more than a block, parallel with the -Bay front. The old San Francisco convent is the most massive structure -of its kind in Havana. Its long lofty arched passages were well built -and give promise of remaining intact through centuries yet to come. The -large patio in the center is today filled with flowers and admits light -to the many offices, once occupied by the palefaced, sad-eyed inmates of -the convent, now resounding with the click of typewriters and the tread -of feet bent on the ordinary affairs of life. In 1856 this building -became the depository, or general archive, of the Spanish administration -of affairs in the Island. The first American Government of Intervention -used it as a Custom House, where Major General Bliss had his -headquarters. Shortly after the inauguration of the Republic of Cuba -this property together with that of the square now used by the -Institute, was purchased from the Church and continued to be used as the -custom house. In 1916 the old convent, thoroughly renovated, became the -permanent headquarters for the Department of Posts and Telegraphs, for -which it is well adapted. The custom house was transferred to the San -Francisco Wharf, a handsome structure that also shelters the -administration of Trisconia. From 1608 the San Francisco Church was used -as the starting point of the religious processions which annually passed -the "Via de Cruces" or Way of the Cross, along Amargua Street -terminating at the Church of El Cristo at the corner of Aguacate Street, -which was built in 1640. - -The San Agustin Convent was built by the order of San Agustin on -Amergura Street at the corner of Aguiar Street. A tablet on the church -itself states that it was completed in the year 1659. There is nothing -of special interest connected with this church other than its antiquity -and its general air of isolated depression. - -La Merced, located at the corner of Cuba and Merced Streets, was the -culmination of an effort to establish a Merced Convent for that part of -the City of Havana. It was begun in 1746 but not completed until 1792. -La Merced is today considered the most fashionable church in the Island -of Cuba, and during times of religious festivals the decorations of -flowers and illumination of candles are very imposing. This church, and -the National Theatre, during the opera season, furnish perhaps the two -most interesting places in which to study Havana's lite society. - -[Illustration: IN NEW HAVANA - -While many streets in Havana appear to belong to some Spanish city of -centuries ago, many others vie with those of New York and Washington in -their up-to-date Twentieth Century aspect. There are in both public and -private edifices many examples of the finest modern architecture and -construction, some rising many stories above the two-and three-storied -buildings characteristic of former years.] - -In 1689 the convent of Santa Catalina was built on the square facing -O'Reilly Street, between Compostela and Aguacate Streets, the dedication -of the church taking place in 1700. This convent has been famous for two -centuries for its wealth, devotees vying with each other in the -amount of money or property which they could contribute to the coffers -of the church. It is said that $15,000 was the smallest contribution -that could be accepted from any woman who chose to devote her life and -fortune to the promotion of the Catholic faith and the prosperity of the -Church. No limit was fixed to the amount of the individual contributions -from novitiate nuns, and many of the wealthiest women of Havana society -have disappeared from the social world, within its walls. The property -was sold in 1917 for a million dollars and the inmates were removed to -the new quarters located on the plateau in Vedado. - -The picturesque church that stands on the crest of the hill in the -district of Jesus del Monte was built in 1689. The view from the front -of this church, looking over the city and bay beyond, is very pleasing. - -An attractive church from the viewpoint of its minarets and -architecture, known as Santo Angel, is located on a small hill of that -name near the junction of Cuarteles with Monserrate Street, overlooking -the long stretch of green sward that extends from the new Presidential -Palace to the Park of Luz Caballero. This church, in spite of its name, -seems to have been selected by fate to suffer a number of serious -reverses. In 1828 a stroke of lightning toppled over the tall spire on -its eastern front, and again in 1846 a hurricane that did but little -damage to the city tore down the cupola and brought with it the entire -end of the building. In spite of this however the church has recently -entered into a period of prosperity and is today the center of -fashionable congregations who usually assemble there for twelve o'clock -late mass. - -Santa Teresa was founded in 1701 and is located at Compestela and -Teniente Rey Streets. - -The convent of Santa Clara was built in 1664 and began with a fund of -$550. It extends from Cuba to Havana Streets and from Sol to Luz -Streets, covering two solid blocks of ground, and is the largest convent -in the Island of Cuba. Owing to the recent increase in the price of -city property, the space covered by this convent is valued at -$1,500,000. - -In 1704 the convent of Belen was founded at the corner of Compostela and -Luz Streets, covering an entire block of ground that had served -previously as a recreation park for the Bishop of Compostela. Within -this convent the Jesuit Order established what was known as the "Royal -College of Havana," whence were graduated some of the city's famous -lawyers and scholars. This order maintains an Observatory and weather -bureau, whence reports in regard to storms in the Caribbean are -contributed to the daily papers. Belen, among the devout Catholics of -Cuba, is undoubtedly one of the most popular institutions of the West -Indies. - -Shortly after the inauguration of Woodrow Wilson as President of the -United States, Mr. William E. Gonzalez was appointed Minister -Plenipotentiary from that country to the Republic of Cuba, and took up -his residence in the old colonial mansion built by the Echarte family, -located on the corner of Santa Catalina and Dominguez Streets. This -beautiful quinta occupies a block of ground in the old aristocratic -residence district of Cerro, some three miles distant from Central Park. -The building, although only one story in height, is quite imposing, -built of stone with white marble floors throughout, inclosing a -beautiful patio that forms one of the unique and charming attractions of -old-time residences in Havana. A wide marble flagged gallery runs all -around this patio from which a soft subdued light enters the many rooms -facing upon it. A broad porch, whose heavy flat roof is supported by -long rows of stone columns, faces the south, and above it flies the -Stars and Stripes from sunrise to sunset. The garden or grounds -occupying the eastern half of the block are filled with beautiful shade -trees and sweet scented flowers that have been brought from many parts -of the world, while in front a row of stately royal palms reach up some -80 feet or more toward the blue sky. - -La Chorrera, the Fort of Almandares, is a picturesque little old fort, -some fifty feet square and two stories in height, built of coral rock in -the year 1646, which rests upon a little islet not much bigger than the -fort itself, at the eastern entrance of the Rio Almandares. Slave labor -undoubtedly entered into the construction of this fort, although it is -said to have cost 20,000 ducats. A flight of stone steps has been built -up to the second floor that communicates with the entrance to the fort. -Over this is a tablet giving the date of construction and the name of -its builders. - -During the siege of Havana by the British in 1762, Lord Albemarle -determined to land troops west of the City in order to take advantage of -Principe Heights, overlooking the capital from the west. On June 10 a -portion of the British fleet began bombarding La Chorrera. Its -commanders, Captain Luis de Aguiar and Rafael de Cardenas, made a very -stubborn resistance, yielding only when their ammunition had been -completely exhausted. This fort is easily reached by the Vedado car -line, from which a short walk of two blocks brings one to the mouth of -the Almandares, on which the fort is located. - -On the western point, guarding the entrance of the little ensenada or -inlet of Cojimo, four miles east of El Morro is Fort Cojimar, almost the -duplicate of La Chorrera, which was constructed at the same time. These -quaint monuments of the past add considerable historic and picturesque -beauty to the northern coast of Cuba. All of them may be reached by -beautiful automobile drives and are well worth a few moments in passing. - -The Torreon de la Playa, a small round watch tower, was erected on the -eastern shores of La Playa, some three miles west of the Almandares -River, where watchmen were kept both day and night to advise the -authorities and inhabitants of the struggling young colony of the -approach of pirates from the west, or any suspicious sails that might -hove in sight. This structure was built by order of the Town Council, -the "Cabilda," on order issued on March 8, 1553, naming each individual -who was to contribute either in money or men towards the work. The money -contributed was exacted only from some half dozen of the inhabitants and -amounted to a "real" or ten cents a day. The well-to-do inhabitants were -called on each to furnish one negro with his tools, or lacking tools, a -"batey" or boat in which to convey material. - -A similar tower known as the Torreon de San Lazaro was built in 1556 -upon the western edge of the little inlet, which until the inauguration -of the Republic in 1902 occupied the space where the beautiful -equestrian statue of General Antonio Maceo now stands. - -The picturesque fort known as Atares, located on the hill that commands -the extreme southwestern end of the bay, was begun in 1763, immediately -after the departure of the British, and completed in 1767. It is -occupied at the present time by a small detachment of Cuban artillery, -and is sacred in the eyes of all Americans owing to the fact that -General Crittenden of Kentucky, and his 50 companions who had joined the -unfortunate band of Cuban liberators under the command of Narciso Lopez, -were executed on the western slope of the hill in August, 1851. Atares -is easily reached by the Jesus del Monte cars, and the view from the top -of the hill is worth the climb. - -The Castillo del Principe, the last fortification of the 18th century, -was placed on the western edge of the Principe plateau, on the same spot -where Lord Albemarle with his British troops looked down on the City of -Havana during the siege of 1762. Fort Principe was begun in 1774 and -completed in 1794. The general style of architecture is similar to that -of all the military structures of this period, although Principe is -larger and more commodious than Atares. A deep moat surrounds the -fortification and an old style drawbridge connects the outer edge with -the entrance to the citadel itself. Since the beginning of the Cuban -Republic the fort has been used as a state penitentiary, and is a model -of ideas and methods in the treatment of its convicts. The inmates are -not only taught to read and write, but learn useful trades as well. -Those of musical bent have formed a brass band, in which they have been -encouraged under the intelligent direction of General Demetrio Castillo, -who has had charge of the prisoners in Cuba almost since the beginning -of the Republic. - -The view from the top of the hill is one of the most attractive in the -Province of Havana, and may be reached either by the Principe car line, -which terminates at its base, or by an automobile drive which leads -through a winding way up the hillside to the very entrance of the -fortress. - -The Botanical Gardens, Quinto de Molinos, are a beautiful property -fronting on Carlos Tercero Street and extending along the north side of -the drive from Infanta Street to the foot of Principe Hill. They belong -to the Government. On the corner of Infanta Street is located the new -City Hospital, the largest and most complete institute of its kind in -the West Indies. Just beyond are the ground of the Botanical Gardens and -the Quinto de Molinos, forming a long, beautiful well laid out, shaded -park. Its graveled walks lined with many varieties of stately palms and -tropical plants some indigenous and some brought from other parts of the -world, render the ground a charming and interesting retreat, not far -from the center of the City. The estate covers some 40 acres, and within -its limits are held Agricultural and Live Stock fairs, that under normal -conditions take place annually. These grounds, during Spanish colonial -times, were used as a summer residence by the Captains-General of Cuba, -and for that reason have a certain degree of historical interest, since -here Generals Martinez Campos, Weyler and Blanco, with many of their -predecessors, passed much of their time during the summer season. - -Several picturesque kiosks and artistic structures with seats have been -built for the benefit of the public, and usually during the winter -season open air concerts are given within the grounds once or twice a -week by the Municipal Band. The Quinto is easily reached either by -street car or automobile and there is probably no place within the city -limits where one can pass a more restful and profitable hour, than -within the shade of the Botanical Gardens of Havana. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX - -HAVANA - - -Havana is one of the most charming capitals in the New World. Its very -name, Indian in its origin, conjures up a vivid panorama of four -centuries, crowded with tragedy, pathos, adventure, bold deeds, cruel -crimes and noble sacrifices; on whose rapidly moving film the hand of -fate has pictured every phase of human emotion from the wild dreams of -world conquerors, to the hopeless despair of hunted Cubenos, who -preferred death to slavery. It was on the 25th day of July, 1515, that -Diego Velasquez, while cruising along the south coast of the Island, -stopped on the sandy beach near a native fishing village called -Metabano. The Indians belonged to a tribe known as the Habanas; one of -the thirty different divisions of the Cubenos. Grass-covered plains -extending back from the beach seemed to impress Velasquez favorably, so -he founded a city there and called it San Cristobal de la Habana. - -Toward the close of the year 1519, however, the colonists evidently -disapproved of Velasquez's selection and moved their town across to the -north coast of the Island at the mouth of the Almandares, where -northeasterly winds made the summers more agreeable. This little stream, -emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, had a depth of twelve or fifteen feet -at the mouth, sufficient for the caravels of those days. But some of the -City Fathers, in their wanderings to the eastward, found the beautiful -bay, then known as Carena. A prophetic glimpse into the future may have -furnished the motive for another change; at any rate a year later they -picked up their household fixtures, carrying with them the town records, -and established the City where it now stands, on the eastern shores of -one of the finest land locked harbors in the world. In 1556 Havana -became the capital of Cuba, the rendezvous of all Spanish fleets in the -Occident, as well as the key to the Gulf of Mexico. - -Havana in the early days of the 16th century consisted of several groups -or clusters of palm thatched huts, not far from the bay, with little -that could suggest a city in embryo. As in all cities built by the -Spaniards in the New World, the first permanent buildings were churches -and monasteries erected for the benefit of the Catholic clergy and -built, as a rule, of adobe or mamposteria, with walls two or three feet -in thickness. The material used was a mixture of rock, earth and sand, -inclosed in facings of plaster. Many of them were decorated with crude -figures and images of saints popular in the community. - -Later, quarries of soft limestone were found in abundance, and from -these, blocks were easily cut which, after exposure to the atmosphere, -formed a hard, durable building material. The coral rock of which both -Morro and Cabaas were built was taken from old quarries scattered along -the north shore from Morro eastward. From these quarries came also the -stone that built the spacious San Francisco Convent, occupied today by -the Central post office. - -As in all Spanish towns, in the New World at least, a plaza or open -square formed the center from which the principal streets radiated. On -the eastern side of the plaza of Havana, in front of La Fuerza, was -erected in after years El Templete, in honor of the first mass held by -the inhabitants of Havana, which took place under a giant ceiba growing -close to the shore of the harbor, in 1519. - -Nearly all of the permanent structures in Havana, up to the middle of -the 17th century, were located on or near the water front, some distance -in from La Punta. Many of these, including La Fuerza, the San Francisco -convent, the old cathedral and La Maestranza, were built of coral -limestone cemented with a mixture the formula for which is said to have -been lost, but which in these buildings has endured the wear of -centuries. Excellent clay for making tile and brick was later found not -far south of the City, so that the more pretentious buildings were -covered with roofs of the criolla tiles that are still common throughout -all Latin America. - -Before the middle of the 15th century, the clearing in which Havana was -located was extended out as far as the street now known as Monserrate, -running from the Gulf front across to the southwestern extension of the -bay. In 1663 a splendid wall was begun along this line and completed -with the help of slaves in 1740. It ran almost north and south, -inclosing the city on the west, and protected it from all attacks coming -from the land side. This wall was twenty feet in height and twelve feet -thick at the base, surmounted at frequent intervals by quaint -round-topped turrets. It had its angles, bastions and points of vantage -for defensive purposes, the work, according to experts, representing a -very high degree of engineering ability on the part of those who planned -it. - -With the exception of one angle and its turret, which stands in front of -the new Presidential Palace, the old walls were removed in 1902, thus -depriving Havana of perhaps the most picturesque feature of the ancient -city. - -Just in front of this wall on the west, a wide clearing was made to -prevent surprise attacks from the forests beyond. With the felling of -the trees, grass soon grew along its entire length, hence the name -Prado, which means meadow, became permanently attached to it, and so the -green lawn in front of the old walls of the 17th century was transformed -two hundred years later into Havana's most aristocratic avenue. - -The principal thoroughfare, leading from the southern side of the Plaza -de Armas to the Prado, was called Obispo or Bishop Street, which name it -still retains. It is said that the first Bishop of Havana was in the -habit of taking his daily walk out along this road to the main gate of -the City; hence the name. - -Beginning at the water front and running from La Fuerza west, parallel -to Obispo, is O'Reilly Street, named in honor of one of Cuba's most -energetic Governors-General, who controlled the affairs of Havana in -1763, and who was, as the name suggests, of Irish antecedents. Just -north of O'Reilly and parallel to it we have Empedrado Street which won -its distinction by being paved from the old Cathedral to San Juan de -Dios Park in the time of Governor General Las Casas. South of Obispo -came Obrapia Street, or the Lane of Pious Works. Beyond and parallel to -it came Lamparilla Street, which earned this cognomen owing to the fact -that some progressive citizen in the early days hung a lantern in front -of his residence for the benefit of the public at large. - -Next comes Amargua Street, or the Bitter Way. It is along Amargura that -certain pious and penitent monks were said to practice flagellation. -With shoulders bent, and on their knees, they invited the blows of whips -while wending their way out towards the edge of the city. Incidentally -they collected alms en route. On the southeast corner of Amargura and -Mercaderes Streets a peculiar cross in stucco, painted green, is built -into the wall of the house where, centuries ago, lived a high dignitary -of the church, before which all passing religious processions paused for -special prayers. - -There is hardly a square within the old walled city that has not some -story or legend whose origin goes back to the days of Velasquez, De -Soto, Cortez of Mexico, and other celebrated conquerors of the New -World. - -The Havana of today is a strange mingling of modern, reinforced cement -and stone structures, five or six stories high, with little one or -two-story, thick-walled, tile roofed samples of architecture that -prevailed three hundred years or more ago. City property, however, is -increasing so rapidly in value that many old landmarks along the narrow -streets of the wall inclosed section are being torn down and replaced -with large, well equipped office buildings. - -[Illustration: COLON PARK - -Colon Park, one of the most beautiful pleasure grounds of the Cuban -capital, is also known as the Campo de Marte, and is at the southern end -of the famous Prado. It is noted for its marvellous avenues of royal -palms. From it the Call de la Reina, once one of the most fashionable -streets of the city but now given up to business, runs westward toward -the Botanical Gardens.] - -With the accumulation of sugar estates, coffee plantations, cattle -ranches and resultant wealth, people of means began to seek summer homes -beyond the walls of the old City. All men in those days went heavily -armed for any danger that might threaten, while numerous slaves -furnished protection from common thieves and highwaymen. - -With the development of the outlying districts, trails and roads soon -began to reach out both to the west and south, followed some years later -by what were known as Caminos Reales or Royal Roads, connecting Havana -with Matanzas, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spiritus, -Remedios, Camaguey and Santiago de Cuba. - -One road, known still as El Cerro, ran southwest along the crest of a -ridge that led towards the western part of the Island and in after years -connected Havana with the big coffee plantations in the mountains and -foothills of Pinar del Rio. Along this road were built the first -suburban residences and country homes of the aristocracy of Havana. - -Many of these places were cut out of dense woods, and on one of them, -until less than ten years ago, the original owner, the Conde de -Fernandina, retained a full square of dense primeval forest, not a tree -of which had been removed since the days of Columbus. This remnant of -virgin wilderness, located on the corner of El Cerro and Consejero -Arango Streets, was for some six years passed by the electric car line -of El Cerro. - -All of this section of the City, of course, was long ago built up with -handsome residences that sheltered most of the old Cuban families, who -had inherited the right to titles, coats of arms, and other -paraphernalia pertaining to the monarchy of Spain. Tulipan Park marks -the center of this aristocratic district, and still retains much of its -old-time atmosphere of colonial prestige. - -Further south ran another winding trail that gradually ascended a range -of hills, forming the divide from which the undulating surface slopes -towards the south coast, thirty miles away, where Velasquez located the -original site of Havana. This thoroughfare is known as Jesus del Monte, -or Jesus of the Mountain, and has become quite popular in recent years -on account of reputed healthfulness due to its elevation above the sea. - -When the last remnants of the Spanish army returned to Spain in 1899, -that portion of the City called El Vedado, or The Forbidden, extending -from the Beneficencia, or Orphan Asylum, out to the Almandares River, -three miles distant, was nothing but a goat pasture, with a low sea -front of sharp coral rocks. Its soil was thin and the district -apparently had nothing to recommend it aside from its view of the ocean. - -A little dummy engine pulled a shaky, shabby car out to the Almandares, -making four trips a day. Just why it ran at all was a mystery to the -inhabitants, since there was but little inducement to travel in that -direction. The entire expanse of land from the Santa Clara Battery to -the Almandares, and miles beyond, could have been purchased for a song, -but no one wanted it. - -Two years later some "fool American" erected an attractive bungalow on -the line, about half way to the Almandares, and not long after, sign -boards could be seen with the notice, "Lots for sale," which invariably -occasioned smiles, since there were no purchasers. But around the -bungalow were laid out pretty grounds, and the suggestion took root. Two -men of means erected beautiful places close by, and the building of -homes in the cactus-covered flats became a fad. - -The price of lots, which began at ten cents a square meter, soon rose to -a dollar, then two dollars, five, ten, twenty-five, and today this -entire section from Havana to the Almandares and beyond, from the dog -teeth coral of the coast, up over the crest of the Principe Hill, is -covered with beautiful modern mansions with splendid grounds, and forms -the residential pride and show ground of the city. - -This marvelous increase in development of suburban property, which -seems to continue with leaps and bounds, has long since passed the -Almandares River and reached out to the Playa and to the Country Club, -while even further west land is sold by the square meter and not by the -caballeria. All has taken place since Leonard Wood stepped into the -Palace as Governor-General of Cuba in the year 1900. - -Another well-known highway that played an important part in the early -history of Havana was called La Reina. This wide, beautiful avenue -begins at the Parque Colon and runs due west until at the crest of the -first ridge the name changes to Carlos Tercero, passing between avenues -of laurels until it reaches the Quinto de los Molinos and the Botanical -Gardens. Passing on around the southern edge of the Principe Plateau, -the avenue continues on to Colon Cemetery, a beautiful spot, commanding -a view of the mouth of the Almandares, and that portion of Vedado lying -between it and the Gulf. Since Havana has but one cemetery for a city of -over 360,000 inhabitants, travel to the last resting place is somewhat -constant over this really beautiful road. - -The view from the western terminus of Principe Hill is one of the finest -in Cuba's capital. It was this crest that the English Colonel Howe, -after landing his force of three thousand men in 1762 at the mouth of -the Almandares River, ascended and from it saw for the first time the -old walled city lying at his feet, in all its primitive glory. - -This commanding position on the western edge of the Principe Plateau, -with the City of Havana, the Botanical Gardens and the beautiful Quinto -de los Molinos lying at its base, was chosen for the site of the -University of Havana, and no more appropriate place for an institution -of this kind could have been selected. In the near future it will -undoubtedly become one of the most important seats of learning in Latin -America. - -Near the head of the western extension of Havana Harbor is the Loma of -Atares, on whose summit rests a picturesque 18th century fortress of -the same name. The hill rises abruptly several hundred feet above the -level plain, and commands all approaches to the City both from the south -and the west. - -The prado or meadow, that extended along the western front of Havana's -embattled ramparts, is today changed into a wide esplanade, along which -runs a double driveway for automobiles and carriages. Through the -center, between double rows of laurels and flamboyans, are shaded walks, -shrubs and rare plants of the tropics. On both sides of this fashionable -street, sumptuous mansions, many of them homes of millionaires and -distinguished men of this western Paris, have been built since the -inauguration of the Republic. Attempts have been made at different times -to change the name of this avenue, but the people of Havana, up to the -present, have insisted on retaining the term first given it, the -"Prado," that always lay between the City gates and the western forests. - -On the east lies the former walled city with its narrow streets and -antique buildings and picturesque landmarks of bygone centuries. On the -west we have the more modern City, that extends for miles both south and -west, where beautiful residences have been erected, some of them -palatial in size and appointments. Several of the more prominent hotels, -too, are located on the Prado where it forms the western boundary of -"Parque Central," that delightful retreat in the City's center. In front -of the Park was the large gate that gave entrance and exit to the -traffic of the old time thoroughfares of Obispo and O'Reilly. Many -beautiful club buildings, whose cost ran into millions, are located -along the Prado. - -At the southwestern corner of the Park is the new National Theatre, a -magnificent piece of architecture covering an entire block of ground, -and costing some $3,000,000. This theatre is the largest and best -equipped place of amusement in Havana, and at its entertainments may be -found the elite of the Island republic. The season of grand opera -continues for approximately six weeks every winter, during which the -best artists of Italy, France, Spain and the Metropolitan Opera of New -York furnish entertainment to a music-loving audience, whose taste is as -refined and critical as any in the world. - -The "Parque Central" covers an area equivalent to two city squares, in -which many beautiful shade trees, including the evergreen laurel, the -flamboyan, date and royal palms, and other plants and flowers peculiar -to the tropics, add shade and beauty to the spot. In its center rises an -imposing statue in marble of Jos Marti. - -From this central point the Prado continues south until it terminates in -the "Parque de los Indies." Adjoining on the west is the "Parque de -Colon," with an area equivalent to four large city blocks. Stately royal -palms, india rubber trees, flowering majaguas, cocoanuts and rare -tropical plants, render this park one of the most interesting in the -City. - -Leading away from the head of the Parque de Colon we find a wide avenue -known as La Reina, that extends westward and upward to the summit of -Belascoain, where its width is more than doubled in the Avenue known as -Carlos Tercero. This continues west between two long rows of shade -trees, outside of which are two more drives running parallel to the main -or central avenue. - -This continues out beyond the Botanical Gardens, the Quinto de los -Molinos, whence the main street curves around the crest of the Plateau -of El Principe, and continues on two miles to Colon Cemetery near the -further end of the Plateau, on the east bank of the Almandares. - -Colon cemetery is one of the finest in Latin America. The monument -dedicated to the seventeen firemen who perished beneath the falling wall -of a burning house, consists of a single shaft some fifty feet in -height, surmounted by the figure of an angel, supporting in her arms an -exhausted fireman. Cameos in marble of the faces of the men who died in -the performance of duty, are cut around the base of the monument. -Another beautiful example of the sculptor's art stands above the tomb of -the "Inocentes," where lie buried the bodies of the eight youths who -were executed by the Spanish Volunteers, at the foot of the Prado on -November 27, 1871. In this cemetery are buried also many of Cuba's -famous men and women whose graves are carefully kept, and on Decoration -Day are visited by thousands of people, friends, relatives and admirers, -who leave their tributes of flowers, kind thoughts and tears. - -Music in all its varied forms, from grand opera to the rhythmic beat of -the kettle drum, (which plays such an important part in the orchestras -of native negroes) probably furnishes the chief source of pleasure and -entertainment in the Republic of Cuba. The Havanese have always been a -music loving people, and really excellent musicians are common in the -Capital. - -The Municipal Band of Havana, with some eighty artists, under the -direction of Guillermo Tomas, furnishes music, either in Central Park or -the Malecon, several evenings each week. It is in attendance also at -nearly all official functions, and funerals of prominent men, soldiers, -and officers of the Government. - -This same band has won at different times the admiration and approval of -many audiences in the United States, including that of critical Boston, -where concerts were given in Symphony Hall in 1915. It was also heard at -New York City's Tercentenary Celebration during the fall of the same -year. Director Tomas is very proud of the medal awarded to his band by -the judges of the Buffalo Exposition in 1901. - -Many other excellent bands belonging to the Navy, and to different -branches of the Army, are noted for their music, and share with the -Municipal in entertaining the public during different evenings of the -week at the Malecon, and at various parks scattered throughout the City. - -The Conservatory of Music located on Galiano Street near Concordia -Street has turned out many brilliant artists during its career of half a -century or more. Recitals of music are usually held in the National -Theatre or in the Salons of the Academy of Arts and Sciences on Cuba -Street. In these halls nearly all the celebrated artists of the world -have given concerts, and hardly a week passes without entertainments by -the best local talent. - -Next to music, driving, either in automobiles or open carriages, over -the beautiful "Careteras" radiating from the City, furnishes probably -the most popular form of diversion in Cuba. Nearly every evening -throughout the year, the view of the Malecon where the Prado and the -beautiful Gulf Shore Drive meet is a scene of animation not soon to be -forgotten. - -The circular Glorieta, with its dome-shaped roof, supported on heavy -stone columns, shelters some one of the famous National bands while -hundreds of people in machines, in carriages, on stone benches and iron -seats, enjoy the music and between selections chat about the various -topics of the day. From eight until ten, under the shadow of the grim -old fortress "la Punta," and in the blaze of electric lights which line -the Prado and the Malecon, this diversion holds the public, including -all grades of society, from the highest officials to the humblest clerk, -or girl worker in the tobacco factories, who enjoy the benefits of a -true democracy, social and political and financial. - -Some two miles west of the mouth of the Almandares, a little inlet known -as La Playa, fairly well protected from the outer sea, furnishes the -nearest bathing beach for the citizens of Havana and visitors from -abroad. Since the temperature of the Gulf Stream which sweeps along this -part of the northern coast is practically uniform throughout the year, -bathing may be indulged in with pleasure both summer and winter. In the -latter season, however, owing to cool winds that sometimes blow across -the Gulf from the north, only visitors from the United States and -tourists take advantage of this sport. The residents of Havana confine -their bathing season largely to the strictly summer months from May -until November. - -The Havana Yacht Club stands just back from the beach, and from its -front extends some two hundred feet out into the water a splendid -concrete pier, shaded by canvas awnings, and patronized by members of -the club and its guests. This club was established during the first -Government of Intervention and counts among its members many of the best -families of Havana. The interest in yachting has grown rapidly and every -year brings with it interesting sloop yacht and motor boat races, held -either at the Playa or at Varadero, near Cardenas. - -During the bathing season the Marine Band furnishes music from five -until seven in the afternoons. This is enjoyed not only by the members -of the Yacht Club, but also by crowds who throng the beach for a mile or -more on either side. - -The finest beach of Cuba, however, is known as the Varadero, located on -the sea side of Punta Icaca, a narrow strip of land that projects into -the Bay of Cardenas. Here many of the regattas are held during the -summer months, when visitors from the capital go to Cardenas to enjoy -the twenty mile stretch of outside surf bathing. Bathing places cut out -of the coral rocks along the beach of Vedado are also used, especially -by the citizens of that locality. - -Fishing is a sport that furnishes most enjoyable entertainment for those -who are fond of it. Handsome specimens of the finny tribe are frequently -brought in by men and boys, who drift in small boats along the coast, a -mile or so out, and fish both for the table and for profit. Tourists -often find amusement in going out in motor launches at night and fishing -for shark off the mouth of the harbor. Since sharks are usually -plentiful, and of sufficient size to give the angler a tussle before -being brought up to the boat and dispatched, this form of amusement -appeals as a novelty to many who come from the interior of the United -States. - -The markets of Havana are full of excellent fish that are caught all -along the Gulf Stream, between Cuba and the coast of Florida. These are -brought in sloops provided with the usual fish well, which keeps them -fresh until thrown on the wharf just before daylight. The varieties most -sought for, or prized, are the red snapper, known in Spanish as the -"Pargo," the sword fish, and the baracuta, which are splendid fish, from -two to three feet in length and very game, when caught with hook and -line. - -Of the smaller fish, the Spanish mackerel, the mullet, the needle fish, -and scores of other varieties are always found in abundance. The -pompano, peculiar to the Gulf of Mexico, owing to its delicious flavor -and its entire lack of small bones is probably the most prized of all, -and commands a very high price when it reaches the table of fashionable -hotels in the United States. - -The game of Jai Alai was introduced here from the Basque Provinces of -Spain, during the first Government of Intervention in 1900, and became -very popular with both Cubans and visitors from the United States. -General Leonard Wood and his aides soon acquired the habit of visiting -the Fronton and spending an hour or so in practice every morning. - -Jai Alai is played in a building erected for the purpose with a court -some two hundred feet in length, inclosed on three sides by smooth stone -walls, perhaps forty feet in height, and having a concrete floor. It is -played with two opponents on each side known as the blues and the -whites. The ball is similar to that of the tennis court, made in Spain -with a high degree of resiliency and costing five dollars. It is thrown -from a long narrow wicker basket, or scoop, slightly curved at the -point, to retain the ball while swung to the head or end wall. The -gloved part of the instrument is firmly strapped to the forearm of the -player. The ball is caught in this sling-like scoop, and from its length -of some thirty inches or more is driven with great force from the -further end of the court to the opposite wall. On the rebound it must be -caught by one of the two opponents, on either fly or first bound, -otherwise a point is scored against the side that falls. - -A three-inch band is painted around the end of the court, parallel with -the floor and about four feet above it. The ball must strike the wall -above this band, and the science of the play is to drive it into the -corner at such an angle that your opponents will find it impossible to -catch it as it caroms back. - -Once the game starts, the ball never stops its flight through the air, -from the wicker scoop to the end of the wall and back, until an error is -made which counts against the side that fails to catch it. And since the -player cannot hold the ball in his wicker sling for an instant, the -action is decidedly rapid and the excitement soon becomes intense. - -A player may occasionally be seen to leap into the air, catch and fire -the ball back to the end of the court, he himself falling flat on his -back, leaving his partner to take care of the return. Thirty points -constitute the usual game and about an hour is required in which to play -it. Jai Alai was suspended during the latter part of President Estrada -Palma's term, on account of the heavy betting that accompanied it, but -owing to insistent popular demand, it was again installed at the Fronton -in the Spring of 1918. - -The game of baseball, brought to Cuba in the year 1900, from the very -start gained a popularity among the natives that has never ceased for a -moment. It is today the national sport of Cuba, and quite a number of -high-priced players from Cuba have occupied prominent places in the big -league clubs of the United States. The local clubs of Havana play a -splendid game, as several crack teams from the United States have -discovered to their surprise and cost, many of them having been sent -home badly beaten. - -The king of sports, however, in Havana, is horse racing, first -introduced from the United States in 1907. Such was its popularity that -capitalists some four years ago, were encouraged to erect in the suburb -of Marianao the finest racing pavilion in the West Indies. The mile -track and the beautiful grounds which surround it are all that lovers of -the sport could desire; while the view from the Grand Stand, across a -tropical landscape whose hillsides are covered with royal palms, with -dark green mountains silhouetting the distant horizon, gives us one of -the most picturesque and attractive race tracks in the world. - -Between the Plaza and Camp Columbia are located the golf links of -Havana, which owing to the natural beauty of the grounds, and the charm -of the surrounding country, with its view of the ocean and distant palm -covered hills, render golfing a pleasure for at least three hundred and -thirty days a year. These natural advantages have made the links of the -Country Club of Havana celebrated in all places where golfing news -reaches those who are devoted to the game. - -In the various public buildings in Havana occupied by the Government of -Cuba may be traced many styles of architecture that have followed each -other from the beginning of the 16th century to well into the 20th. The -old Fort of La Fuerza, that dates from 1538, is now occupied by the -Secretary of War and Navy, and from it orders are issued directing the -management of the two arms of the service, which in Cuba are combined -under one directorate. Aside from modern windows, shutters and -up-to-date office furniture, no changes have been made in the general -outline or contour of this antiquated old fortress, whose entrance and -drawbridge face the Templete close by on the spot where the residents of -Cuba held their early Town Councils and listened to the singing of their -first mass, four centuries ago. - -Next in line of antiquity would come the old San Franciscan Convent, -that in 1916 was converted into a spacious and artistic post-office, -where the Director General of Posts and Telegraphs looks after that -important branch of the Government Service. - -Next in point of age comes the home of the Department of Public Works in -the Maestranza, along the northeastern front of which runs a remnant of -the old sea wall, extending along the west shore of the harbor from the -Cathedral to the head of Cuba Street. This thick walled building, of -only two stories, began as an iron and brass foundry, in which cannon -were made several centuries ago and during later years of Spanish -Colonial occupancy was used as a warehouse for rifles, sabres, pistols -and small arms in general. Here were outfitted officers and men of the -Spanish Volunteers, or loyalists of the Island, during Cuba's century of -revolutions. With the occupation of American troops in 1900, this -building, covering over a block of ground, was converted into offices of -the Sanitary Department and allied branches, who vouched for the city's -health and cleanliness during that period. It was here that Major -Gorgas, now Major General, held sway and directed the campaign that -exterminated the stegomyia mosquito, and thus put an end to the dreaded -scourge of yellow fever in Cuba. It is at present occupied by the -various branches of Public Works under the direction of Col. Jos R. -Villalon, who has earned the reputation of being one of the most -tireless and persistent workers in the Government. The National Library, -whose entrance faces on Chacon Street at present, shares the -accommodations of the Maestranza. - -The Department of Sanitation, with all of its vast ramifications, whose -jurisdiction covers the entire Island, is located in an old colonial -building fronting on Belascoain near the corner of Carlos Tercero -Street, and with its ample patio covers an entire block of ground. This -Department is located more nearly at the center of modern Havana than -any of the other Government offices. - -One of the oldest public buildings, and the largest used for purposes of -Government, known as La Hacienda, is located on the water front between -Obrapia Street and the Plaza de Armas. During the many years of Spanish -rule, not only the Custom House, but nearly all the more important -branches of Government, were located within its walls. With the -inauguration of the Republic, the National Treasury was installed in the -southwest corner of the building, under the direction of Fernando -Figuerdo, who has retained this position of trust during all changes of -administration. The remainder of the ground floor is occupied by the -National Lottery and offices connected with that Institution, which -extend into the entresuelo, or half-story, just above. The second floor -is occupied by the Hacienda, or Treasury Department, whose offices -surround the central patio on all four sides. The third and fourth -floors are devoted to the central offices of the Department of -Agriculture, including the headquarters of its Secretary, General -Sanchez Agramonte. The upper floor, or azotea, is used by the Laboratory -of the Department of Agriculture. The Hacienda is rather an imposing -building from the Bay, on which it faces, and plays a very important -part in the Government work of the Island. - -To the outside world the best known building is probably the old -Governor-General's palace, fronting on the Plaza de Armas and occupying -the square of ground between Tacon and Mercaderes Streets and between -Obispo and O'Reilly Streets. The palace is two stories in height and -belongs to what may be termed the modern colonial style of Cuban -architecture, with very high ceilings, enormous doors and tall -iron-barred windows that descend to the floor. The interior of the -Palace is occupied by a very pretty palm court with a statue of -Christopher Columbus posing in the center, facing the wide deep entrance -that opens from the Plaza. This building was erected in 1834, as a -residence and headquarters for the Governors General sent out from -Spain, many of whom have occupied the Palace between that date and the -year 1899, when the last Governor General took his departure. It was -here that General Martinez Campos, in the winter of 1896, penned his -cablegram to the Spanish sovereign, stating that Generals Maximo Gomez -and Antonio Maceo, with their insurgent forces, had crossed the Trocha -into Pinar del Rio, for which reason he tendered his resignation, -acknowledging his failure to arrest the tide of Cuba's War of -Independence. Within this same palace General Weyler planned his scheme -of reconcentration, or herding of the pacificos, non-combatants, old -men, women and children, into barbed wire stockades, where a quarter of -a million of them died of exposure, disease and hunger. It is said that -when informed of their condition and the fearful death rate, he -remarked, "Excellent! Let these renegade mothers die. We will replace -them with women who will bear children loyal to Spain." It was here also -that his more humane and civilized successor, General Blanco, who in the -last days of 1897 had tried hard to save Spain's one remaining colony in -America, felt the shock of the explosion that sank the battleship -_Maine_ in Havana Harbor in February, 1898, and exclaimed as he looked -across the bay toward the wreck: "This will mark the saddest day of -Spain's history." Within the same room too, Cuba's first President, the -beloved and revered Tomas Estrada Palma, with tears of humiliation in -his eyes, handed his resignation as President to the American Secretary -of War, William H. Taft, and left for his almost forgotten farm in the -forests back of Manzanillo, where he passed his last days as a martyr to -the greed and cruelty of his own people. - -Diagonally across from the old Presidential Palace, on the northwest -corner of the Plaza de Armas, stands the Senate Chamber, a two-story -building of the same attractive architecture found in the old Palace. It -is in a way a companion to this building, having been designed and -directed as the home and office of the various Lieutenant-Generals of -the Island, in which capacity it served until the termination of Spanish -rule in Cuba. During the two years of American Intervention, various -military departments made their headquarters within this structure, but -with the installation of the Republic in 1902 it was formally dedicated -to the use of the Senate, and officers connected with that branch of the -Legislative government. The lofty salon fronting the Plaza de Armas -served as the Senate Chamber. The 24 members of the upper house held -sessions there on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays of each week. As with -the Presidential Palace, the somewhat lavish use of marble in patios, -floors, stairways, balconies, etc., is much in evidence in this -building. - -Just north of the Senate Chamber, and covering the east side of the long -block on Tacon Street, between the Palace and the Bay, are located the -Bureau of Secret Service, the Department of Government, and those of -State of Justice, all installed at the present time in the same -building. - -This building during Colonial days was occupied by the Department of -Engineers, and with the beginning of American intervention was turned -over to Brigadier General William A. Ludlow, to whose energy is due the -credit of rapidly and effectively cleaning up the city of Havana after -its sanitary abandonment of three centuries duration. General Ludlow -shared the building with General Enoch Crowder. The Palace of State and -Justice has been remodeled and renovated from foundation to azotes. All -of its floors and most of its walls are now finished and decorated in a -manner appropriate to the uses to which it is dedicated. - -During the regime of General Leonard Wood, through an official decree of -that most competent commander, three public buildings were added to the -capital of the Republic, each now bearing his name in an appropriate -placque or tablet in the wall. The first of these was a Bacteriological -Laboratory, now known as the General Wood Laboratory, located on Carlos -Tercero Street in front of the Botanical Gardens. Bacteriological -experiments, which up to that time had been conspicuous by their -absence, have since been carried on faithfully in Havana under the -direction of the celebrated expert in that science, Dr. Aristides -Agramonte. - -Next in order was a handsome three-story stone building, located on -Belascoain a block from the corner of Carlos Tercero Street, dedicated -to the school of Industrial Arts and Sciences. The instruction given in -this Institution since its foundation in 1901, has been efficient, and -of excellent service to the youth of Havana, many of whom have taken -very kindly to this much needed innovation. - -The third of these institutions fathered by General Wood is the Academy -of Sciences and Fine Arts, located on Cuba Street near Amargura Street. -This institution has been a boon and a blessing to the intellectual life -of Havana, since for the first time suitable quarters were offered to -celebrated lecturers, artists and musicians, who find in Havana -appreciative audiences, and where, since the founding of the Academy, -local talent had a fitting theatre in which to display its merit. - -Since the beginning of the Republic in 1902, under President Estrada -Palma, the old Governor General's Palace was found rather limited in its -accommodations. Not only was it compelled to shelter the President and -his family, together with the many offices belonging to the Executive -Department, but it also shared its accommodations with the City Council, -and many of the dependencies of that Institution. With the rapid growth -of the City, and the unavoidable increase in the work of all -departments, consequent on the development of commerce and trade with -the outside world, these quarters, each year, have been found -increasingly cramped and unsatisfactory. - -During the regime of President Jos Miguel Gomez, a new Presidential -palace was planned, and work was begun on it on the site formerly -occupied by the Villa Nueva Station, belonging to the United Railways of -Havana. This ample space, facing for several blocks on the Prado and -Colon Park, was exchanged, by an Act of Congress, for the old Arsenal -Grounds on the water front, desired by the railways for a Grand Central -Station, for which they were excellently adapted. The plans of this -structure, as well as the beginning of the work, were found to be most -unsuited to a Presidential Palace, and by order of President Menocal, at -the suggestion of the Secretary of Public Works, work was discontinued -and abandoned for other plans and better construction. - -Previous to the inauguration of President Menocal funds were voted for -the erection of a Provincial Palace or State House, on the property -belonging to the Government located between Monserrate and Zuleuta -Streets, just at the head of the long, beautiful stretch of open land -that sweeps down to the sea from the crest of the low hill, where rests -the last remnant of the city walls. This location, with its view of the -Luz Caballero Park, of the entrance of the Bay of Havana and the Morro -Headland on the opposite side, is one of the finest in the City, and -naturally appealed to the artistic taste of General Menocal as the true -location for a Presidential Palace. The Provincial Building had been -planned on a scale altogether unsuited for the offices of a Provincial -Council, whose members were limited to less than ten, and whose services -were of so little utility that several proposals for their -discontinuance had been considered. More than all, funds for the -completion of the building had been more than exhausted, and large debts -to contractors were pending. To relieve this emergency and liquidate the -indebtedness, it was finally resolved by the National Congress to take -over the property, reimbursing the Provincial Government with the -$540,000 which they had expended, and to dedicate this building to the -purpose of a Presidential Palace that would be more appropriate to the -demands of the Executive Department in a rapidly growing Republic. - -A million dollars was appropriated for this purpose, which sum has since -been augmented in order to carry out the interior decoration of the -building along lines that would be in keeping with its proposed use. The -new Presidential Palace is four stories in height built of white stone, -the architecture being a harmonious combination of the Medieval and -Renaissance, terminating with a magnificent dome that rises from the -center of the building. The interior decoration of the new Palace has -had the benefit of skilled experts, and everything is in harmony with -the purpose to which the building was dedicated. The great Salon de -Honor is in the style of Louis XVI, while the State Dining Room is -modeled after the Italian Renaissance. The main entrance, principal -staircase, the hall and the general dining-room are of Spanish -Renaissance. The Salon de Damas is decorated in modern French style. All -of the other rooms that pertain to the personal equipment of the Palace, -and comprise the east wing, follow the same general line of architecture -and decorations, varying only in design and colors. The Palace is beyond -doubt, in location, design and decoration, one of the most beautiful and -interesting structures of its kind in the western hemisphere. - -Work on the new capitol building, which is to replace the architectural -mistake of its original founders, was begun in 1918, with the purpose of -making this building the most imposing and stately modern structures of -its kind in the West Indies. It will be four stories in height and cover -5,940 square meters of ground, with a floor space of 38,195 square -meters. Above this spacious structure will rise a splendid dome in -keeping with the architecture of the main building. One half of the -building will be devoted to the use of the House of Representatives, -while the other will be occupied by the Senate. It will contain offices -and apartments for the Vice President, Committee halls, etc., and will -be furnished with all of the conveniences and improvements of modern -times. The Hall of Representatives will accommodate 133 members, and may -be increased up to 218. The Senate Chamber has ample capacity for the 24 -senators, with accommodations in each of these Congressional halls for -visitors and the general public. Elevators will reach all floors and the -interior decorations will be in keeping with the purpose to which the -new Capitol Building is devoted. - -During the Presidency of General Mario Menocal, work was begun on the -National Hospital, which when completed, will be one of the finest -institutions of its kind in the world. The grounds are located on the -northwest corner of Carlos Tecero and Belascoain Streets, occupying the -eastern extension of the Botanical Gardens that adjoin the hospital -grounds on the west. The location, near the center of what may be termed -modern Havana, is excellent, and the work as planned will constitute a -very important adjunct to the maintenance of health in Havana. - -The plans contemplate the erection of 32 modern buildings, constructed -of white limestone and reinforced concrete. Sixteen, or one-half of -these had been finished in the fall of 1918. This hospital when complete -will cost approximately a million and a half of dollars, and will rank -with those of the best of America and Europe. The institution has been -named in memory of General Calixto Garcia. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX - -A PARADISE OF PALM DRIVES - - -To those who are fond of motoring in the tropics, the world offers no -more delightful field than the Island of Cuba from the end of October -until early May, with Havana as a point of departure. Some fourteen -hundred kilometers or 850 miles of clean, cream colored macadamized -drives stretch out to the east, south and west of Havana, each inviting -the tourist or lover of nature to feast his eyes on a fascinating -panorama of mountain, hill and dale; of canon, cliff and undulating -plain. - -Long lines of stately royal palms, of white-trunked Cuban laurel, from -whose branches the glossy green leaves never fall, of cocoas, mangoes, -almonds, tamarinds, and a score of others, border mile after mile of the -national highways, furnishing grateful shade and softened light that -otherwise would try the eyes. Every turn and curve of the driveway -brings change. There is no sameness of landscape, no monotony of level. -Each mile, each moment, presents something new. Expectation is seldom -disappointed. - -Nothing perhaps is more startlingly novel or strikingly beautiful than -when, in early summer, the touring car, rounding a curve, suddenly -brings to view a line of flamboyans in full bloom. Lips open in -surprise, eyes fasten on what seems a forest of fire. The great banks of -brilliant red and golden yellow waving in the breeze need only smoke to -proclaim the roadside all ablaze. The camouflage of Nature is perfect -and strangers of the tropics will bid the chauffeur pause until they can -feast their eyes on this riot of color. - -[Illustration: AN AVENUE OF PALMS - -The splendid highways which under the Republic have been created in all -parts of Cuba have not been left as mere roadways, but have been -provided with hundreds of thousands of shade trees, for the comfort of -travellers as well as for the scenic beauty which they enhance. There -are hundreds of miles of driveways shaded and adorned with stately palms -or other trees, like that shown in the illustration.] - -The most interesting excursions through Cuba radiate from the -Capital. One of exceptional charm stretches east through Matanzas to -Cardenas, a comparatively modern, well built little city of some thirty -thousand souls, resting on the southern shore of Cardenas Bay, just a -hundred miles from Havana. - -One of the old colonial, solidly-built military roads leaving Havana was -constructed along a comparatively straight line for 48 kilometers to the -little city of Guines, located in the southeastern center of the -province of Havana. The road, bridges, and culverts are built solidly of -stone, while giant laurels, almonds and flamboyans on both sides of the -way furnish a continuous stretch of shade beneath which the voyager -travels from one end of the road to the other. This drive is over a -rolling, and in places a decidedly hilly country, which relieves -monotony and at the same time adds greatly to the picturesqueness of the -highway. Many little villages such as San Francisco, Cotorro, Cautro -Caminos, Jamaica, San Jose, Ganuza and Loma de Candela or "Hill of the -Candle," are passed between Havana and Guines. These, to the stranger -are always a source of novelty and interest. From the top of the Loma de -Candela, a beautiful view of the valley below spreads out towards the -south. This is known as the Valley of Guines, a large part of which has -the good fortune to have been brought under a rather crude but -nevertheless efficient system of irrigation many years ago. The water -for this irrigation comes from a large spring that, like many others in -the Island, bursts from some big cavern below the surface and forms a -river that eventually reaches the sea a little east of the village of -Batabano, on the south coast. Some three miles from Guines the river is -brought under control by a rather crude dam of cement through which it -is distributed by ditches over the lands, referred to usually as the -"Vegetable Garden of the Province of Havana." Here large quantities of -tomatoes, egg plants, peppers, squash and Irish potatoes are grown -during the late fall and winter months. The produce of this section is -shipped to the United States as long as market prices justify, after -which ready sale is found in the local markets of the capital. - -From Guines another drive extends some 13 kilometers towards the -northeast to the town of La Catalina on the way to Matanzas. The -distance from Havana to Matanzas is shortened by a connecting link 16 -kilometers in length which branches off the Guines highway at Ganuza, -and runs due east through La Catalina to the town of Madruga, 63 -kilometers from Havana. This section of the road follows a ridge of low -hills or mountains. From Madruga the drive turns sharply to the -northeast, entering the Province of Matanzas, 25 kilometers east of the -border line. - -The drive from Havana to Matanzas is 100 kilometers or 60 miles in -length, and passes through a section of country every mile of which -brings to view charming bits of tropical scenery, together with an -opportunity to see something of the life of the inhabitants in the -interior of the Island. If one has time to stop, or cares to leave the -main highway at Ceiba and cross the ridge of hills about a mile distant, -a beautiful little valley lies below, on the other side of the divide. -The drive from Havana to Matanzas is usually made in about three hours, -and, aside from the attractions furnished by the city and its suburbs -spread out along the western side of the harbor, will furnish a very -pleasant diversion for an early morning or late afternoon excursion. - -Another of the old Spanish colonial military roads, leaving Havana -through the suburb of Marianao, sweeps away towards the southwest in a -comparatively straight line until it reaches the city of Guanajay, 42 -kilometers distant. Here the road divides, one branch running due south -to the little city of Artemisa, located in the center of the pineapple -district, which furnishes a large part of the fruit shipped to the -United States. From Havana to Artemisa, 58 kilometers, Cuban laurels, -royal palms and flamboyans furnish a continuous and often dense shade -throughout its entire length. In some places, for miles, the road -resembles a long green tunnel passing through foliage that arches up -from the sides and meets in the center above. From Las Mangas, 7 -kilometers south of Artemisa, the road swings sharply to the westward -and so continues through a more open country with less shade and less -traffic. There is no speed limit on the country roads of Cuba, and if -the condition of the drive permits, one can skip along at a 40 or 50 -mile clip between villages, with little danger of interference. This -westerly drive swings on through Candelaria, 82 kilometers from Havana, -where one gets the first glimpse of the long picturesque range of the -Organ Mountains some five miles away to the north. These parallel the -road to the western terminus of the Island. - -From the village of Candelaria a short drive not over five miles in -length reaches up to the base of the Ruby hills, which at this point -form a perpendicular cliff several hundred feet in height, over which -falls a stream of water whose volume during the winter is comparatively -small, but the drop is perpendicular and the roar of the torrent during -the rainy season can be easily heard at Candelaria. Just above the falls -are a group of mineral springs, iron, sulphur, etc., that were once very -popular, and during slavery days, which terminated in 1878, many -families passed the warm months at these baths, the ruins of which can -still be seen. About four kilometers of this road to the falls is -macadamized and the remainder can be negotiated readily by an ordinary -carriage. A connecting link some 20 kilometers in length has been -proposed to connect Candelaria with San Diego de Nunez and Bahia Honda -on the north coast, but the cost of the road through the mountains may -prevent its completion for some time. - -San Cristobal, 10 kilometers further west, and 92 kilometers from -Habana, was the terminus of one of the old military roads at the -beginning of the Cuban Republic. Since this time a beautiful automobile -drive has been continued out to Guane, 246 kilometers from Havana, and -will soon reach La Fe and Los Arroyos, two points on the extreme western -coast about 30 kilometers further on. - -Nine kilometers west of San Cristobal a connecting link with the main -highway has been built to the town of Taco-Taco, about a mile and a -quarter distant on the railroad, with another branch 7 kilometers in -length running due north to the foot of the mountains. This road will be -built straight across the Organ Range, through Rangel and Aguacate, to -Bahia Honda on the north coast, passing the old time "cafetales" or -coffee plantations of Pinar del Rio, and also through some of the rich -mineral zones of that region. The uncompleted link is only about 20 -kilometers but is over a rather difficult mountainous country. - -At the 117th kilometer post a highway of six kilometers connects with -the town of Palacios on the Western Railway, while at the 123rd, still -another branches south to Paso Real with a northern extension that -reaches San Diego de los Banos, 9 kilometers distant. This road too, -will eventually cross the mountain range and connect with Consolacion -del Norte, whence the road has already been completed to Rio Blanco on -the north coast, 9 kilometers away. - -The drive from the main line to San Diego de los Banos is through an -extremely picturesque country of hill and dale, and the village itself -is well worthy of a visit. Like the Candelaria Springs, the San Diego -Baths have long been famous, and the latter still continue to be so. The -springs of hot and cold water impregnated with sulphur, iron and other -minerals are said to have valuable medicinal qualities. - -From the cross roads at the 123rd kilometer the main trunk-line passes -through a series of low hills, but with grades so reduced that motors -have no difficulty in negotiating them. From the town of Consolacion, -151 kilometers from Havana, one enters the eastern border of the -celebrated Vuelta Abaja tobacco district that lies spread out on either -side of the driveway. On either side are low hills with gentle slopes -and little oases or "vegas" of land that are not only rich, but contain -that mysteriously potent quality which from time immemorial has produced -the finest tobacco in the world. - -Pinar del Rio, the capital of the province, is located at the 172nd -kilometer and forms a center from which five different automobile drives -radiate. The western line, which may be considered as an extension of -the main highway, will eventually connect San Antonio, the western -terminus of the Island, with Cape Maisi in the east, 800 miles away. -This road to the northwest soon enters the mountains, through which it -passes many rises, falls and unexpected turns, bringing into view a -picturesque country, rugged but not forbidding. At kilometer 200, a -point known as Cabezas or "the Head," the drive turns at a right angle -and sweeps down towards the plain below, terminating at Guane, 246 -kilometers from Havana, on the western edge of the celebrated Vuelta -Abajo. A shorter line between Pinar del Rio and Guanes, passing through -San Juan y Martinez, is under process of construction. The latter city -is located in the western center of the Vuelta Abajo district. - -From this city, a modern little place of some 12,000 or 15,000 -inhabitants, another branch of the trunk line, 25 kilometers in length, -passes through a level country until it reaches La Paloma, a landing -place for coasting vessels and light draft steamers of the Caribbean -Sea. - -From the capital of the Province due north a line 52 kilometers in -length has been built straight across to La Esperanza on the north -coast, a little fishing village located on the bay formed by the -outlying islands some six miles from the mainland. The road ascends by -comparatively easy grades to a height of some 1800 feet, where the top -of the ascent is reached. Here the line takes a sharp curve to the east, -bringing suddenly into view, as Rex Beach exclaimed: "The most -picturesquely, dramatically beautiful valley in the world!" This -strangely hidden mountain recess or park is known as the Valley of -Vinales, and forms part of a strange basin, that has been carved out of -the heart of the Organ range by erosion, leaving a quiet grass covered, -flat bottomed basin 2,000 feet below the top of the ridge from whose -level surface strange, round topped limestone hills are lifted -perpendicularly to an altitude of 2000 feet. A small stream courses -through the rich grass that carpets the floor, and one lone picturesque -little village, with houses of stone and roofs of tile, nestles in its -center. The inhabitants of the place seem absolutely content with its -quiet charm and seldom see anything of the outside world, except as -represented by the occasional tourist, who sweeps through with his car, -stopping for a moment perhaps for some simple refreshment, and then on, -through the narrow gap between the towering "magotes" that form the -northern wall of the valley. Here the road suddenly swings to the west, -following the foot of the mountain which towers above for a few -kilometers, whence it again turns north, and passes out into the -comparatively barren pine covered hills that continue on through San -Cayetano until the gulf coast is reached at La Esperanza. - -In returning after a rather primitive fish breakfast which can be had at -La Esperanza, it is worth one's while to pause for a moment in front of -the little country school, on the west side of the road, just before the -Valley is entered from the north, and there to secure a child guide, -whom the courteous professor will indicate, and with the services of -this little pilot you may find the reappearing river, a stream that -slips under the base of the mountain within the valley, and reappears -from a picturesque, cave-like opening on the other side. The stream is -only a few yards in width, with the water clear as crystal and very -pleasant to drink. - -Standing on the rocks in the shade of the cliffs above, one can hear the -roar of the water some place back in the depths of the range, where it -evidently falls to a lower level. A visit to this spot gives one an -opportunity to note and observe at close hand the peculiar formations of -the rocks, full of pockets and openings, from every one of which -protrudes some strange growth of tropical vegetation. To explore the -Valley of Vinales and its various turns, narrowing up between steep -walls in some places, opening out into beautiful parks at others, would -require a week at least, but would afford a rare diversion never to be -regretted. - -The little city of Guanajay, at which the long western automobile drive -divides, is located on an elevated plateau, some thousand feet above the -level of the sea. From the little central plaza of the town a beautiful -road leaves in a northerly direction, passing through cane fields and -grazing lands for some five or six kilometers, until it reaches the -crest from which the road descends to the harbor of Mariel. It is worth -while to pause at this point and note the beautiful panorama of hills on -all sides and the tall peaks of the Organ range of Pinar del Rio to the -westward. From this point down, for two kilometers, the descent is -rather steep, winding, and picturesque. - -Thirteen kilometers from Guanajay the little fishing village of Mariel -is found at the head of one of the deep protected harbors of the north -coast. The view from the head of the bay is very interesting, with high -flat promontories on the east, perched on the crest of one of which is -the Naval Academy of the Republic, the Annapolis of Cuba. A little -further on may be seen a large cement plant erected in 1917, beyond -which, on the point, is the quaint old light-house that has done duty -for many years. The western shore line is broken into tongue-like -projections, with deep recesses between, all covered with fields of -waving sugar cane. - -On the extreme western point, at the entrance of the harbor, is located -the Quarantine Station where passengers and crews from foreign vessels -in which some infectious disease has appeared are cared for in cleanly -commodious quarters until the sanitary restriction is removed. The -National Quarantine Station has been chosen by President Menocal as a -favorite anchorage for his private yacht during the warm months of -summer. Fishing in this bay, too, attracts many tourists. - -Near kilometer 10, on the Mariel Drive, the road divides, the western -branch sweeping away at right angles through rich cane fields as far as -the eye can see and gradually ascending towards the little village of -Quiebra Hacha, near which are several magnificent sugar estates whose -mills grind day and night through six or eight months every year. At the -18th kilometer, the road turns due west and follows the crest of a range -of low hills which sweep along the southern shore of the harbor of -Cabanas. - -The view of this bay from the drive is one of the finest in Cuba. Every -turn of the road shows some part of the bright blue waters, dotted with -palm crested islets a thousand feet below. The entrance of the harbor, -with a small island just inside the mouth, its quaint old 17th century -fortress recalling the days of the pirates and buccaneers of the Spanish -Main, can be seen in the distance. - -For eight or ten miles the drive follows the general trend of the -shoreline, leaving it finally with a graceful turn and many changes of -level, as hill after hill is either climbed or circled. The driveway -sweeps on westward through a country devoted to cane growing and stock -raising, until another beautiful deep water harbor known as Bahia Honda -is sighted off to the northwest Eventually the drive passes through and -terminates abruptly about a kilometer and a half beyond the little -village of Bahia Honda or Deep Bay, that was built over two kilometers -back from the head of the harbor over a century ago, when the -inhabitants still feared the incursion of enemies from the sea. The town -lies just at the foot of forest covered hills that come gradually down -from the Organ Range some six miles back. The town itself, aside from a -certain quaintness, common to all interior cities of Cuba, has but -little interest. A short driveway leads to the head of the bay and the -inshore lighthouse. - -The harbor is some five or six miles in length by three or four in -width, and furnishes splendid anchorage even for deep draft vessels. -This bay was originally chosen as the north shore coaling station for -the United States Government in Cuba, but afterwards was abandoned as -unnecessary. Two range lights render entrance at night easy, while just -west of the mouth on the long line of barrier reefs known as the -Colorados, stands the new Gobernadora lighthouse, erected a few years -ago for the benefit of ships plying between Havana and Mexico. - -The drive from Havana to Bahia Honda, with the little digression towards -Mariel, is sixty miles in length. The rather heavy grades in places, and -the beauty of the scenery throughout its entire length, discourage fast -motoring, but the jaunt can easily be made between "desayuno" at seven -and the Cuban "almuerzo" or breakfast at eleven. No trip of equal length -in the Republic furnishes greater charm to the lover of picturesque -Nature than does this north shore drive to Bahia Honda. When connected -as planned, with Vinales, some 50 kilometers further west, it will rank -with, if not excel, any other drive known in the tropical world. - -From Matanzas several short lines radiate, all of which are interesting, -especially those which wander through the valley of the Yumuri, and -another seven kilometers in length which follows the shore line and -sweeps up over the ridge, affording a beautiful view of the Yumuri, -stretching out to the westward. Another short line, only a few -kilometers in length, has been built to the caves of Bellamar, a -favorite resort for winter tourists. - -Another drive reaching south to La Cidra, 16 miles distant, on the -railroad to Sabanilla, enables one to form some conception of the -country to the southward of the capital. Only a few kilometers from -Matanzas one of the main trunk lines has been completed as far east as -Contreras, 60 kilometers. From this line, just beyond Ponce, a branch -runs 8-1/2 kilometers to the charming little city of Cardenas, resting -on the southern edge of the bay. - -Extending from Cardenas due west is another line, terminating at the -little town of Camarioca, 18 kilometers distant. Some five kilometers -along this road a branch sweeps north 10 kilometers to the Playa of -Varadero, the finest beach in the Island of Cuba, where many of the -wealthier families assemble for the summer to enjoy surf bathing on the -outer shore, and where the annual regatta is held during the season. - -From Contreras the northern trunk line has been projected eastward, -through Corralillo, across the border into the Province of Santa Clara. -Short stretches of this line have been completed from the towns of Marti -and Itabo, but up to January 1, 1919, no trunk line extended further -west than Cardenas. - -Cienfuegos, one of the principal seaports of the south coast of Santa -Clara, is the center from which two automobile drives radiate. One runs -26 kilometers to the westward, terminating at Rodas and passing through -a number of rich sugar estates. The other runs northeast, through -Caunao, Las Guaos, Cumaneyagua, and Barajagua, terminating at -Manicaragua, 38 kilometers distant. It penetrates the valley of the -Arimao where a good quality of tobacco, known as the Manicaragua, is -grown. The scenery is delightfully picturesque and interesting. -Manicaragua is on the western edge of one of Santa Clara's most -important mining districts. - -From Casilda, another seaport on the south coast, a short line has been -built to the quaint, old-time city of Trinidad, perched on the side of a -mountain and founded by the companions of Christopher Columbus in 1514. -This road has been extended further north ten kilometers and will -eventually reach the important railroad junction and road center of -Placetas, on the Cuba Company's line, connecting the western with the -eastern end of the Island. - -From Santa Clara, the capital of the Province, several short lines -radiate in different directions. The longest sweeps through a rich cane -and cattle country, connecting the villages of La Cruz, Camajuani, -Taguaybon and Remedios, and terminating at Caibarien, the principal -seaport on the northeast coast of the Province. None of the trunk lines -proposed, up to January, 1919, had crossed the line into Camaguey. - -Camaguey, owing perhaps to the fact that the province is less thickly -settled than any other in Cuba, has but few auto drives; the only ones -worthy of mention radiating from the capital, Camaguey. One runs west -some 10 kilometers, parallel with the Cuba Company's railroad lines, -while the other extends east 34 kilometers passing through the charming -agricultural experimental station of Camaguey. This splendid provincial -institution, under the direction of Mr. Roberto Luaces, is located five -miles from the city. Since the greater part of the province is -comparatively level, road building in Camaguey is not expensive and will -probably be rapidly extended in the near future. - -Oriente, owing to its mountainous character, presents more serious -engineering and financial problems than any other of the Island. The -wealth of its natural resources, however, especially in cane lands and -mineral deposits, will undoubtedly furnish an impetus for further -building. - -At present several short lines radiate from Santiago de Cuba, its -capital, located on the beautiful harbor of that name. One of these runs -due north to Dos Caminos, and then west to Palma Soriana, passing -through San Luis. The length of this line is approximately 40 -kilometers. Still another, fifteen kilometers long, reaches Alto Songo, -northeast of Santiago, passing through Boniato, Dos Bocas, and El -Cristo. - -During General Wood's administration of Santiago Province surveys were -made at his instigation and roads were completed to nearly all those -points of historical interest where engagements took place between -Americans and Spanish troops in the summer of 1898. One of these lines, -six kilometers in length, carries the visitor to the village of El -Caney, where the brave Spanish General Vara del Rey lost his life in its -defense. The fortifications were shelled and captured by General William -A. Ludlow of the U. S. Engineering Corps. - -Another, reaching out towards the northeast some five kilometers, -terminates at the top of San Juan hill, where Theodore Roosevelt got his -first experience of mauser rifle fire. On the crest of this loma a -little pagoda has been erected, from the second story of which splendid -views of the surrounding country may be enjoyed and of all places where -engagements occurred. Brass tablets form the window sills of this -picturesque outlook, each one carrying an arrow stamped in the brass, -indicating the various points of interest, followed by a brief -description of the places, with dates of battles, etc. On the same road -may be seen the famous ceiba tree under which the armistice was signed -terminating the war between Spain and the United States. - -Another short line ascends to the crest of a hill in the Sierra Maestra -from which may be enjoyed a charming view of the Bay, city and -surrounding country for many miles. The longest automobile drive in -Oriente extends from the harbor of Manzanillo on the west coast almost -due east to the village of Juguani, 58 kilometers away, passing through -Yara, Veguitas and Bayamo. This line is being rapidly extended to Baire, -and thence on to Palma Soriana, thus completing the connection between -Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba. - -A short line from Baracoa on the extreme northeastern coast of the -Island, has been built in a southerly direction to Sabanilla, 12 -kilometers. Local machines can be found at all of these points that -will carry the tourist the length of the line, enabling him to form some -conception of a section that otherwise could be penetrated only by -mountain ponies or on mule back. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI - -BAYS AND HARBORS - - -Nothing is more essential to the general prosperity of a mercantile -country than good harbors. They are the economic gateways to the -interior, through which all foreign trade must come and go. Cuba in this -sense is essentially fortunate, especially along her north coast, where -sixteen large, deep, well protected bays and harbors of the first order -empty into the Gulf of Mexico, and into the north Atlantic, furnishing -thus direct avenues of trade to the greatest commercial centers of the -world. - -Four harbors and bays of the first order are distributed along the -southern coast, emptying into the Caribbean, and through that great -tropical sea pass the avenues of trade that connect Cuba with the -republics of Central America, Colombia, Venezuela, the Guianas, Brazil, -Uruguay and the Argentine, while the Panama Canal permits direct water -communication, not only with the republics of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and -Chile, but also with the west coast of Mexico, and the United States, as -well as with Japan and the Orient. With North Africa and the -Mediterranean are direct lines of trade through the old Bahama Channel, -while central and southern Africa are reached by way of the Lesser -Antilles and Barbadoes. - -Most of the foreign trade at the present time is with the American ports -along the eastern coast of the Atlantic and through the Gulf ports by -which Cuba has access to the Mississippi Valley, while along the Gulf -Stream Cuba has a direct avenue, as well as a favorable current, that -carried her commerce to England, France and other countries of western -Europe. - -Beginning with the harbors and bays of the north coast we have the -western group located in Pinar del Rio, on the Gulf of Mexico, not -distant from Vera Cruz and Tampico in Mexico, or Galveston in Texas, -while almost facing them we have New Orleans, Pascagoula, Mobile and -Pensacola, with Tampa on the Florida coast. - -On this group the first is that fine deep land locked deep-water harbor -of Bahia Honda (deep bay), sixty miles west of Havana, that was first -selected by the Government of the United States as a coaling station, -but afterwards surrendered for Guantanamo on account of the latter's -proximity to the Panama Canal and the Pacific, to which it gives -entrance. Bahia Honda has a deep, rather narrow and fairly straight -channel that leads from the Gulf into a beautiful sheet of water, -extending some five or six miles into the interior, where good anchorage -may be found for quite a fleet of vessels. A twelve mile light is -located on the western entrance of the harbor, while two fine range -lights enable shipping to leave or enter at night. The little town of -Bahia Honda, three miles back, is connected with the port by a fine -macadam highway. Owing to the fact that this section of Pinar del Rio, -although rich in minerals, has not been brought under development up to -the present, most of the commerce is confined to the local trade between -Bahia and Havana, sixty miles distant. - -Twelve miles further east and forty-eight miles from Havana, we have the -beautiful harbor of Cabanas, a large, double-purse-shaped, interior bay, -that extends some ten miles from east to west and furnishes one of the -most picturesque land-locked harbors on the north coast. A small island -in the entrance, on which is located one of the old time forts of the -17th century, obscures the bay itself from passing vessels. The shores -of Cabanas are covered with extensive sugar cane fields that furnish -cane to the surrounding mills, while its commerce is at the present time -almost entirely local. - -Located in the same province, some 18 miles further east, and only 30 -from Havana, is the harbor of Mariel, a single-purse-shaped bay, that -from its narrow entrance opens out to a broad picturesque sheet of water -extending southward some four or five miles, while several prolongations -extend out towards the southwest, bordered with rich sugar cane -plantations. The little fishing village of Mariel is located at the -extreme head of the bay and connected with Havana by automobile drive, -as are the two harbors previously mentioned. A high table land extends -along much of the eastern shore of this harbor, on the summit of which -stands the Cuban Naval Academy. Near the entrance, on the eastern shore, -is located a new cement factory with a capacity of a thousand barrels a -day. On the western side of the entrance is the quarantine station, to -which all infested vessels are sent, and where delightful accommodations -are found ashore for both passengers and crew, who may be detained by -sanitary officials of the central government. - -The fine deep-water harbor of Havana, which boasts of a foreign trade -excelled in the western hemisphere only by that of New York City, is, of -course, the most important commercial gateway of the Republic of Cuba. -It is one of those deep, narrow-necked, purse-shaped harbors, so -characteristic of the Island, and furnishes splendid anchorage, with -well equipped modern wharves, for handling the enormous bulk of freight -that comes and goes throughout every day of the year. After passing the -promontories of El Morro and Cabanas, that stretch along the eastern -side of the entrance for a mile or more, the remainder of the shores of -the Bay of Havana are comparatively low, although high ridges and hills -form a fairly close background in almost every direction. Within the -last ten years a great deal of dredging and land reclaiming has taken -place in this harbor, increasing greatly not only the depth of water but -also the available building sites. A series of magnificent modern -wharves have been built along the western shore of the harbor, -furnishing splendid shipping facilities for incoming and outgoing -vessels. The upper portions of these buildings are occupied by the -Custom House and Quarantine authorities. The southwest extension of this -bay, recently dredged, furnishes access to deep draft steamships up to -the site of the old Spanish Arsenal, that in 1908 was converted into the -freight and passenger yards of the United Railroads. Along the docks, -where steamers of the P. & O. SS line are moored, were built and -launched many of Spain's ships that centuries ago fought with Great -Britain for the dominion of the seas. On the broad topped promontory -that lies along the eastern shore, southeast of Cabanas, is located -Trisconia, a splendidly equipped detention camp for immigrants and -passengers coming from infested ports in different parts of the world. -Excellent accommodations are there provided during the period of -detention, which may last anywhere from five to fifteen days. This is -the "Ellis Island" of Cuba, and has been a credit to the Republic since -the first year of its installment in 1902, during which time it has been -under the able direction of Dr. Frank Menocal, who takes great personal -pride in having Trisconia, with its floating population, running -sometimes into the thousands, one of the best appointed stations of its -kind in the Western Hemisphere. - -The harbor of Matanzas, sixty miles east of Havana, is a beautiful wide -mouthed bay, or open roadstead, facing on the Gulf Stream as it sweeps -between northern Cuba and southern Florida. This picturesque sheet of -water reaches back into the land some six or eight miles, and although -not noted for its depth, nevertheless furnishes safe anchorage for the -fleet of tramp steamers found there during the larger part of the year, -loading sugar from the many centrals scattered throughout the Province -of Matanzas. Into this harbor, from the west, opens the Yumuri gorge, -through which runs the river whose waters in ages past carved out the -famous valley of the Yumuri, whose beauty was extolled by Alexander Von -Humboldt during his travels in the western world. Covering the western -shores of the bay, that slope down from the top of the hills to the -water's edge, lies the city of Matanzas, while off to the east and south -may be seen great fields of sugar cane and henequen, that form two of -the important industries of the Province. - -Forty miles further east we find the beautiful landlocked bay of -Cardenas, whose northwestern shore is formed by a long sandy strip of -land extending in a curve out into the sea and known as the Punta de -Hicacos. Cardenas Bay is some thirty miles in length from east to west, -by ten or twelve from north to south, and is protected from the outside -sea by a chain of small keys or islands, through which a deep ship -channel was dredged during the first decade of this century. This -furnishes entrance to one of the largest sugar exporting points of Cuba, -the City of Cardenas. - -East of the harbor of Cardenas lies Santa Clara Bay, also protected by -outlying keys, but without deep water anchorage. These island dotted -bays, separated from each other only by islands, and connected by -comparatively shallow channels, extend from Punta Hicacos, some 300 -miles eastward, to the Harbor of Nuevitas. - -Seventy-five miles east of Cardenas we find the bay of Sagua, very -similar to the others, and with a depth not exceeding twelve or fifteen -feet. This harbor is located on the northern shore of the Province of -Santa Clara, and its port, Isabela de Sagua, is the shipping point for a -large amount of the sugar produced along the north coast of the -province. The rivers emptying into the bay of Sagua, as well as the bay -itself, are noted for their splendid fishing ground, tarpon being -especially abundant; also for the small delightfully flavored native -oyster. - -Still further east we have another important shipping port known as -Caibarien, located on Buena Vista Bay, that unfortunately has an average -depth of only 12 or 15 feet, necessitating lighterage out to the -anchorage at Cayo Frances, 18 miles distant, where ships of the deepest -draft find perfect protection while loading. - -On the north shore of the Province of Camaguey we have but one harbor of -the first order, the Bay of Nuevitas, but this harbor may easily lay -claim to being one of the best in the world. Its entrance is narrow, -resembling a river, some six miles in length and with a rather swift -running current, depending upon the flow of tide, as it passes in or -out. The Bay itself is a beautiful sheet of water of circular form, with -an extension of deep water reaching out towards the west some 15 miles, -and connected with the Bay of Carabelas, Guajaba and Guanaja, forty or -fifty miles further west. Along these quiet landlocked lagoons are -located the American colonies of La Gloria, Columbia, Punta Pelota and -Guanaja. - -There are many reasons for believing that the entrance to this harbor -was the place where Columbus spent several days scraping and cleaning -the bottom of his caravels, while a few of his companions made a journey -into the interior, finding very agreeable natives but no indications of -gold. From Nuevitas is shipped nearly all of the sugar made in the -Province of Camaguey, together with a great deal of fine hardwood, cut -in the Sierra de Cubitas Mountains. - -The north shore railroad, beginning at Caibarien some 300 kilometers -distant, has its eastern terminus on Nuevitas Bay, and will, when -completed, greatly increase the trade of splendid sugar and vegetable -land, as well as the mining zone, rich in iron and chrome, that lies -just south of the Sierras. - -Thirty miles further east we have the harbor of Manati, with a narrow -but comparatively deep and easy entrance, which soon opens out into the -usual long pouch shaped bay, on the shore of which are the sugar mills -of Manati. This harbor, although not ranked among the largest, -nevertheless can accommodate a large fleet of merchant ships or tramp -steamers waiting for their cargoes of sugar and hardwood timber. - -Malageta, some ten miles east of Manati, cannot be properly ranked as a -harbor of the first class, although it furnishes protection for vessels -of moderate draft. - -Puerto Padre, 20 miles east of Manati, is another large pouch-shaped -deep water harbor like nearly all those of the north coast, and owing to -the location on its southern shore of two of the largest sugar mills in -the world, Chaparra and Las Delicias, with a combined production of over -a million bags a year, it may be justly ranked as one of the most -important harbors of Oriente. - -Fifty miles further east we have the open roadstead of Gibara, a deep -indentation of the sea that gives, unfortunately, but little protection -from northerly gales, but since Gibara is the exit for the rich Holguin -district of northern Oriente, its commerce is extensive. - -Sixty miles further east, after rounding Lucrecia Point, where the coast -for the first time faces due east, we have another fine deep water -harbor known as Banes, on whose shores is located a large sugar mill -known as "Boston," with an annual output of 500,000 bags. - -Some ten miles southeast of Banes we enter the Bay of Nipe, the largest -landlocked harbor in Cuba. Nipe is a beautiful sheet of water, whose -southern and western shores are low, although mountains can be seen in -the distance in almost any direction. Nipe contains forty square miles -of deep water anchorage, with a width from east to west of twelve miles -and from north to south of seven to eight miles. The Mayari River, one -of the most important streams of the north coast of Oriente Province, -empties into Nipe. On the north shore of the bay the little town of -Antilla forms the northeastern terminus of the Cuba Company's railroad, -connecting Orient with Havana and the western end of the Island. The -land surrounding the bay is exceptionally rich and is owned largely by -the United Fruit Company. Here they originally cultivated large fields -of bananas, but owing to their extensive plantations in Costa Rica, and -to the high price of sugar brought about by the war, their Cuban -properties have been converted into sugar plantations. The splendid -mills of Preston are located on Nipe Bay, from which a half million -bags of sugar are shipped every year to the outside world. The rich -mines of the Mayari district belonging to the Bethlehem Steel Company -are located back of Nipe Harbor and contribute considerably to the -commerce of this port. - -Some five or six miles east of the entrance of Nipe we have the deep -double harbors of Cabonico and Levisa; the latter large and circular in -form, while Cabonico is comparatively small, and separated from Levisa -by a narrow peninsula that extends almost into the single entrance of -the two bays. The lands around this harbor are largely covered with -forests of magnificent hard woods, while the soil is rich enough to -produce cane for a quarter of a century or longer without replanting. - -Some 15 miles further east we have another fine large bay with a narrow -entrance on the Atlantic, known as Sagua de Tanamo. This bay is very -irregular in form, with many ramifications or branches reaching out -towards the east, south and west, while into it flows the Tanamo River, -draining the forest covered valleys and basins that lie between the -mountains of eastern Oriente and the north shore. - -Baracoa, an open roadstead, celebrated owing to the fact that here the -Spanish conquerors made their first settlement in the Pearl of the -Antilles in 1512, is a very picturesque bay, but unfortunately with -almost no protection from northerly winds that prevail during the winter -months. Cocoanuts form the chief article of export from Baracoa, which -is the last port of any note on the north coast of Cuba. - -Although the south coast of Cuba contains some of the finest harbors in -the world, Dame Nature was not quite so generous with her commercial -gateways along the Caribbean as along the shores bordering on the -Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico. Some 85 miles west of Cape Maisi we -come to the Bay of Guantanamo, a long, deep indentation from the -Caribbean, extending ten or twelve miles straight up into the land, and -in its upper extension opening out into quite a wide sheet of water. -Guantanamo is deep, well protected, and of sufficient area to furnish -excellent anchorage for the navy of the United States. That which for -naval purposes gives Guantanamo especial strategic value is the fact -that its mouth, free from obstructions, is so wide that three -first-class battleships can leave or enter at full speed, without danger -of collision or interference, either with each other or with the -inclosing shores. This feature of the bay, which is not often found in -well protected harbors, together with the fact that it practically -commands the Caribbean Sea, and lies almost in a direct line between the -Atlantic Coast and the Panama Canal, were the reasons why Guantanamo was -selected in preference to all other bays as the United Naval Station in -the Republic of Cuba. During the last ten years many improvements have -taken place in Guantanamo and today its importance is not excelled by -that of any other naval station in the Western Hemisphere. The -Guantanamo Valley, one of the richest in the Island, furnishes a large -amount of cane that supplies seven or eight sugar mills located a little -back from the shore of the Bay. - -Fifty miles further west, near the center of the southern coast of -Oriente, the pent up streams and basins of the geological past have -broken through the chain of mountains bordering the Caribbean and by -erosion have formed one of the finest and most picturesque harbors in -the world. The Morro of Santiago stands on a high promontory at the -eastern entrance of its narrow mouth, passing through which the Bay -rapidly opens up into a charming panorama of palm covered islands, -strips of white beach, and distant mountains, that combine to render -Santiago one of the most beautiful harbors in the world. The City of -Santiago lies on a side hill sloping down to the water's edge, and owing -to the fact of its being the southeastern terminus of the Cuba Company's -lines, which connect it with Havana, and to the natural wealth of the -Province of Oriente itself, of which Santiago is the chief commercial -city, it has no rival in the Republic outside of Havana. Several lines -of steamers connect Santiago, not only with the Atlantic and Gulf ports -of the United States, but also with Jamaica, Porto Rico, Panama and -Europe. - -Manzanillo, located on the west coast of Oriente, at the head of the -Gulf of Guacanabo, is the most important harbor in that section of the -province, and owing to the rich country lying back of it, whence are -shipped not only sugar, but hardwoods, hides and minerals, Manzanillo -Harbor is one of the most important in the eastern end of the Island. -Between this and Cienfuegos, which is the most important port on the -south coast of central Cuba, we have a stretch of several hundred miles -in which only harbors of the second order are found. - -Cienfuegos, or a "Hundred Fires," is another of those beautiful, storm -protected inland pockets, with a narrow river-like channel connecting it -with the Caribbean. An old time 17th century fort nestles on the western -shore of the entrance, an interesting reminder of the days in which -every city and every harbor had to protect itself from the incursions of -privateers and pirates. Cienfuegos Bay extends from southeast to -northwest a distance of about fifteen miles, with a varying width of -from three to seven miles. The bay is dotted with charming islands, many -of which have been converted into delightful homes and tropical gardens, -where the wealthy people of the city pass most of their time in summer. -The city itself lies on the northern shore and is comparatively modern, -with wide streets and sidewalks. Good wharves and spacious warehouses -line the shores of the commercial part of the city. Cienfuegos is the -main gateway, not only for the sugar of southern Santa Clara but for the -whole southern coast of the central part of the Republic. Its commerce -ranks next to that of Santiago de Cuba, and the bay itself is one of the -most interesting in the Island. - -Further west, towards Cape San Antonio, while we have many -comparatively shallow harbors and embarcaderos or shipping points for -coasting vessels and those of light draft, there are no other deep -harbors aside from that of the Bay of Cochinos, or Pig Gulf, which is -really an indentation of the coast line, extending from the Caribbean up -into the land some fifteen miles, with a width of 10 or 12 miles at its -mouth, gradually tapering towards the north, but furnishing no -protection from southerly gales. - -On either side of this bay are located low lands and swamps including -those of the Cienaga de Zapata, most of which will never be cultivated -unless drained. Extensive forests of hardwood timber surround the bay in -all directions. Several big drainage propositions have been projected at -different times but none, up to the present, have been carried into -execution. - -Batabano, almost due south of Havana, is quite a shipping point, -receiving fish, sponge and charcoal from the shallow waters and low -forests along the south coast of Havana Province and Pinar del Rio. -Fruit and vegetables are landed here from the Isle of Pines, but owing -to the shallow waters of the bay and its utter lack of protection from -any direction but the north, it can hardly be considered a harbor. - -Of harbors of the second order, Cuba has some twenty on the north coast, -most of which have depths varying from 10 to 15 feet, although a few may -be found difficult of entrance at low tide for boats drawing over ten -feet. Beginning on the northwest coast of Pinar del Rio, near Cape San -Antonio, we have El Cajon, Guardiana Bay, and moving northward, -Pinatillo, Mantua, Dimas and San Cayetano. At all of these with the -exception of the first, the light draft coasting steamers of the -Menendez Line stop every five days in their trips around the western end -of the Island, between Habana and Cienfuegos on the south coast. Santa -Lucia, a few miles west of San Cayetano, is used as the shipping port -for copper from the Matahambre Mines. The ore, however, is conveyed in -lighters across the bay and transferred to steamers near Cayo Jutias. - -East of Havana, about half way to Matanzas, we have the embarcadero of -Santa Cruz, from which many vegetables, especially onions, are shipped -to Havana. Still further east, on the outer island shore is a harbor of -the second order near Paredon Grande, carrying twelve feet, and used -largely by fishermen and turtlers in stormy weather. Between Cayo -Confitas and Cayo Verde, there is a wide break in the barrier reef that -permits vessels in distress to find protection during periods of storm. -Some thirty miles west of Nuevitas is another break in the barrier reef -over which schooners drawing not more than seven or eight feet can find -shelter in the Bay of Guajaba. This is the deepest water approach to the -American colony of La Gloria. A little blasting would improve it. - -Nuevas Grandes, located midway between Nuevitas and Manati, on the coast -of Camaguey, is not easy of entrance in bad weather owing to surf -breaking on the outlying reefs, nor is the country back of it -sufficiently productive to give promise of much commerce in the future. - -On the north coast of Oriente we have a number of comparatively shallow -harbors, some of which furnish very good protection for vessels in bad -weather. The more important of these are Puerto Vita, Puerto Sama, -Tanamo and Puerto Naranjo. - -Along the south coast of Oriente we have Imias Sabana la Mar, Puerto -Escondido, Playa de Cuyuco and Daiquiri which, with the exception of the -latter, from which the Daiquiri iron mines ship their ore, have -practically no commerce. - -West of Santiago, on the same coast, are the little landing places of -Dos Rios, Cotibar, Turquino and Mota. Between the last two, however, we -have a fairly good harbor known as Portillo, that furnishes ample -protection for vessels drawing not more than 15 feet, and is the -shipping point for the output of the sugar estates that surround -Portillo Bay. - -Between Cabo Cruz and Manzanillo are the embarcaderos of Nequiro, Media -Luna, Ceiba Hueca and Campechuela, from nearly all of which a -considerable amount of sugar is shipped during the season. - -North of Manzanillo, and extending west along the coast of Camaguey and -Santa Clara, we have the shallow harbors of Romero, Santa Cruz del Sur, -Jucaro, Tunas de Zaza and Casilda. The southern coast steamers stop at -each of these ports, and quite a large amount of sugar and hardwood is -shipped from them. - -From Cienfuegos west we have the Bahia de Cochinos and Batabano already -mentioned, together with La Paloma, Punta de Cartas, Bay of Cortes and -the Gulf of Corrientes, all of which are located along the south shore -of Pinar del Rio, and have quite an extensive local trade in charcoal, -fish and hardwood. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII - -RAILROAD SYSTEMS IN CUBA - - -Somewhat strange to relate, railroad building, insofar as it applied to -Spanish territory, had its inception in Cuba, at a time when the Island -was one of Spain's colonial possessions. A few rich planters owning -large properties at Guines, an exceptionally fertile district some forty -miles from the capital, had kept in touch with experiments in railroad -building and steam locomotives, as a new source of power in the -commercial world, and for the purpose of trying out the practicability -of this new means of transportation bought a steam railway locomotive, -together with the necessary rails and equipment, for use in transporting -sugar cane and other produce from one point to another on their own -plantations. Besides this, the Nuevitas-Puerto Principe Railroad was the -first public service steam railroad ever built on Spanish soil. - -What is known as the United Railways of Havana may justly claim to be -the father of public railway transportation in the Island, since the -founders of the Company took advantage of the railway nucleus at Guines, -and gradually extended the line through various private properties until -it reached the city of Havana, while branches and connections were -thrown out in other directions. With the consent of the Colonial -Government, the entire property was later acquired at auction by an -English Company and began business as the United Railways of Havana. - -In 1886 the Company took over another short line known as the Alfonso -XII Railroad, that had been built three years before. After various -fusions and transfers, these properties were combined in one, with an -initial capital of $16,875,196. The complete system of wharves and -warehouses at Regla passed into the possession of the Company at the -same time. Afterwards the short line connecting the city of Havana with -the suburb of Marianao was absorbed, followed later by the taking over -of the Cardenas and Jucaro Line. - -In 1906 the Matanzas Railway was brought into the corporation, giving it -at that time a combined length of 1127 kilometers, most of which was -included in the Provinces of Havana and Matanzas. Later the United -Railways were extended into the Province of Santa Clara as far east as -La Esperanza, making in the year 1903, over the Cuban Central Railway, -the much-desired connection with the Cuba Railroad to Santiago de Cuba -and the Bay of Nipe. In 1907 the Western Railway of Havana, connecting -the capital with Pinar del Rio, and the still further extension westward -to the town of Guane, were brought under the control of the United -Railways. - -From Guane north and east a new North Shore Road for Pinar del Rio has -been projected, which will circle around the western end of the Organ -Mountains passing through the towns of Mantua, Dimas and La Esperanza, -paralleling the Gulf Coast of the Province of Pinar del Rio until it -reaches Bahia Honda, where it will connect with the western extension of -the Havana Central now terminating at Guanajay. This projected line, -which has been approved by Congress and the Railroad Commission, will -pass through a comparatively undeveloped section of the Island, whose -rich mineral zones and fertile agricultural lands between Bahia Honda -and Guanajay have long suffered for lack of transportation. A very -substantial subsidy which will materially assist in the construction of -the road, may be considered as a guarantee of its early completion. - -[Illustration: GRAND CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, HAVANA - -The city of Havana is not only the chief port but also the chief -railroad centre of Cuba, from which radiate trunk lines running east, -west and south, to all parts of the island, besides, of course, numerous -short suburban lines. Since the establishment of the Cuban Republic, by -mutually advantageous arrangement between the Government and the -companies, a general terminal for all these roads has been provided in a -handsome and commodious building conveniently placed adjacent to the -water front.] - -The new electric lines connecting Havana with Guanajay in the west, and -Guines towards the southeast, were joined to the United Railways, -and a magnificent railway terminal was built on the old Arsenal grounds, -acquired from the Government. This is a splendid modern four-story -building of brick, stone and steel, with two artistic towers reaching a -height of 125 feet, making it one of the most imposing edifices in the -City. From this station trains arrive and depart for every part of the -Island. - -The combined mileage at present operating under the control of the -United Railways of Havana is 1,609 kilometers or 963 miles. - -From the viewpoint of commercial progress and utility it may be safely -stated that Sir William Van Horne, by building the much needed -connecting link of railroad between the eastern terminus of the United -Railways at Santa Clara and the two terminals of the Cuba Company's road -at Antilla on the north coast, and Santiago de Cuba on the south, -conferred on this Island a greater benefit than any other one man in -that realm of affairs. - -Immediately after the American occupation of the Island, Sir William Van -Horne visited Cuba, en route to Demarara, British Guiana, and got only -as far as Cienfuegos, Cuba. He later rode over the rich country lying -between Santa Clara and the city of Santiago de Cuba, and in his fertile -brain was promptly visualized a line of railroad passing through the -center of the three eastern and largest provinces of the Island, and -terminating on the shore of the two finest bays of Oriente, connecting -this by rail with the west portion of Cuba. The Foraker Resolutions -prohibited the securing of a franchise for the building of such a -railroad, and but little encouragement was given Sir William Van Horne, -while a number of obstacles were presented, including difficulties in -securing right of way for the proposed railroad, without the right of -condemnation. Owners of properties that were practically inaccessible, -and whose products could not be exported except at great cost, were -seemingly blind to the advantages that would accrue to them from the -construction of such a line. This big-brained pioneer, however, who had -only recently built the Canadian Pacific across the plains and mountains -of the North American Continent, did not hesitate a moment in -undertaking and carrying out his project of connecting the capital of -Cuba with the rich and undeveloped territory lying to the eastward. -Where right of way was not granted willingly he bought the properties -outright, and built his railroad practically over his own farms and -fields, with but little local assistance and no land grants of any kind. - -The Cuba Company's line, including the branches contributary to it and -under its direction, measures 717 miles. The main line begins at Santa -Clara and passes through Placetas del Sur, Zaza del Medio, Ciego de -Avila, Camaguey, Marti, Victoria de las Tunas, Cacocum, Alto Cedro and -San Luis, to Santiago de Cuba, a distance of 573 kilometers. From Alto -Cedro a line was built north to Antilla, 50 kilometers distant on Nipe -Bay, whence the greater portion of the freight destined for northern -markets is shipped directly to New York. - -Of the numerous branch lines, beginning in the west, may be mentioned -two that leave Placetas del Sur, one extending north to Placetas and -through connections to the harbor of Caibarien; the other, built in a -southerly direction, to the city of Trinidad on the south coast. From -Zaza del Medio, in the Province of Santa Clara, a branch extends almost -due south to Sancti Spiritus, and thence, through connections with the -Sancti Spiritus Railroad to Zaza on the shore of the Caribbean. At Ciego -de Avila, the Cuba Company's road is crossed by what is known as the -Jucaro & Moron Road, built many years ago as a military line through the -center of the trocha, or barrier, intended to prevent insurrectionary -troops passing from Camaguey into the western part of the Island. This -short stretch of railway connects San Fernando on the north coast with -Jucaro on the Caribbean. - -At Camaguey, the old Camaguey and Nuevitas Road during many years had -enjoyed a monopoly in the transportation of products to the coast. The -Cuba Company absorbed and incorporated the road, securing thus a -valuable adjunct to its system. The Bay of Nuevitas was not of -sufficient depth to permit large vessels loading at the old wharves, so -the Cuba Company extended the road five kilometers to Punta de -Pastelillo, where sugar warehouses and wharves have been built, so that -sugar from all the mills of central Camaguey can be delivered aboard -ship, doing away with the old system of lightering out to deep water. - -From Marti, 60 kilometers east of Camaguey on the main line, a -southeastern extension was built across country to the City of Bayamo, -in the southwestern center of the Province of Oriente, 127 kilometers -distant. Another branch built from Manzanillo on the west coast of -Bayamo, 56 kilometers in length, opened up a section of country -previously inaccessible. From Bayamo a road parallel to the main line -has been built east to San Luis, 98 kilometers, furnishing an exit for -one of the richest sections of the Cauto Valley, and also for the rich -mineral zones that lie on the southern slope of the Sierra Maestra -Mountains. This line from Marti to San Luis passes through one -continuous stretch of sugar cane fields, extending as far as the eye can -reach, north and south, throughout its entire length. - -From Cacocum a short line of 18 kilometers extends north to Holguin. Up -to the completion of this connecting link, the city of Holguin, in north -central Oriente, had been connected with the outside world only through -the medium of a short road terminating at Gibara on the Atlantic coast, -where coasting steamers stopped weekly. - -A branch from Placetas del Sur to Casilda, 90 kilometers, is in process -of construction. Another will connect the city of Camaguey with Santa -Cruz del Sur on the Caribbean, 98 kilometers away. At San Luis -connection is made with the Guantanamo & Western Railway, where -passengers for the United States Naval Station on Guantanamo Bay, and -the rich sugar districts lying north and west of the harbor, are -transferred. - -The Cuba system is equipped with 156 locomotives, 125 passenger coaches, -5013 freight cars, 70 baggage cars and 131 construction cars. In the -harbors of Antilla and Nuevitas twelve steamers, tugs and launches are -employed in making the various necessary transfers of material from one -point to another. On the lines of the Cuba system and its branches are -30 sugar estates and mills, with nine new ones under construction. Daily -trains connecting Havana with Santiago de Cuba leave the terminal -station at 10.00 P.M., making the trip in about 24 hours. - -With the completion of the Cuba Company's lines, the interior of the -Provinces of Oriente, Camaguey and much of Santa Clara were opened up to -the commerce of the world for the first time. During the years that have -elapsed since its completion, a large amount of valuable hard wood, -cedar, mahogany, etc., growing along the line, have been cut and shipped -to nearby seaports for export to the United States and other countries. -With the building of this line, too, some of the richest lands of Cuba -were rendered available for the production of sugar, and today a vast -area is under cultivation in cane, and four hundred thousand tons or -more of sugar, with the assistance of this road, was delivered each year -to the Allies who were fighting in France and Belgium. Thus Sir William -Van Home's foresight enabled the Republic of Cuba to "do its bit" in a -very practical way towards the furtherance of the cause of universal -democracy. - -No account of the Cuba Railroad would, however, be complete which failed -to make mention of the part played in its construction and initial -organization by Mr. R. G. Ward, of New York City, whose energy and -industry, first as manager of construction and later as manager of -operation, combined with the character of the men by whom he surrounded -himself are generally recognized as having been potent if not dominant -factors in determining the rapidity with which the original main line of -that railroad, extending from Santa Clara to Santiago, was built, and -the promptness and thoroughness with which it was put into operation. -The importance of this achievement is emphasized, when it is taken into -consideration that the entire line was located and built without the -right of eminent domain, which necessitated the acquisition of -practically the whole of the right of way through private negotiation. -It is stated that the cross-ties and rails were placed by track-laying -machines of his devising, which, with crews of less than one hundred -men, could, and often did, lay down three miles of full-tied, -full-spiked and full-bolted track per day per machine. He also is -credited with having inaugurated the policy of employing Cubans or -residents of Cuba, whenever it was possible to obtain them to do the -work required. Rather than import telegraph operators needed to run the -newly constructed railroad, he opened and operated, free of all cost or -expense to the students, a School of Telegraphy, under the direction of -Horace H. McGinty, through whose administration nearly one hundred -operators were qualified for positions in less than six months. Sir -William Van Horne, who himself was an expert railroad telegraph -operator, regarded this as a "marvelous achievement, creditable alike to -Mr. Ward, to Mr. McGinty, and to the character and capacity of the young -Cuban students;" many of whom have since held good positions in Cuba, in -Mexico and in the Argentine Republic. - -The Cuba Central Road of the Province of Santa Clara occupies third -place in commercial importance among Cuba's system of railroads. This -Company's lines were built largely for the benefit of the older sugar -estates of Santa Clara, located around Sagua la Grande, Remedios, -Caribarien, Cienfuentes, Isabel de las Lajas, etc. The main line of the -Cuba Central extends from Isabel de Sagua, a port on the north coast, -almost due north to Cruces, a junction on the Cuba Road midway between -Santa Clara and Cienfuegos. - -Another important division of the line runs from Sagua east to the -seaport of Caibarien, passing through Camajuani and Remedios. The Cuba -Central lines, while public highways in every sense of the word, may be -classed among the roads dedicated largely to the service of the sugar -planters of Santa Clara. - -Among the independent projected lines of Cuba, the North Shore Road, at -present under construction at several different points in the Provinces -of Camaguey and Santa Clara, is one of marked importance. This road has -its western terminal at Caibarien, on the north shore of Santa Clara, -whence it extends eastward, passing through an exceptionally rich valley -that furnishes cane to some half-dozen large sugar mills, and continues -eastward through Moron, in the Province of Camaguey. It parallels the -north coast, extending eastward across the rich grazing lands of the -Caunao River, and stretching out further eastward, traverses the virgin -forests that lie between the Sierra de Cubitas and the Bays of Guanaja -and Guajaba. Leaving the Cubitas slope, it crosses the Maximo and -eventually reaches deep water anchorage on the shores of the western -extension of Nuevitas Harbor. - -This line is at present under construction from Nuevitas westward and -from Moron both east and west. In the winter of 1918-19 the line was -finished from the deep water terminal on Nuevitas Harbor as far west as -the Maximo River. When completed it will pass through one of the richest -agricultural and mineral sections of the Island. - -From the crossing of the Maximo a branch line is being built around the -eastern end of the Sierra de Cubitas in order to tap the rich Cubitas -iron mines, whose deposits are waiting only transportation in order to -contribute a large share of wealth to the prosperity of the Republic. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII - -MONEY AND BANKING - - -A perusal of Cuban history shows that within a few years after the -country was settled, questions in regard to the exchange value of its -moneys arose, which were not effectually resolved till the lapse of -nearly four centuries later, upon the establishment of the Cuban -Republic. - -As with the other early Spanish colonies of the New World, the -circulating medium was at first solely metallic. A credit currency was -not suited to a primitive country, whose foreign trade was largely -clandestine, open to piracy and other perils, its lawful commerce being -limited to the port of Cadiz, Spain, under the monopoly of a board of -trade known as the "Contratacion de las Indias," succeeded in 1740 by -the "Real Compania de la Habana," till the English occupation in 1762. - -The position of Cuba on the highroad between Europe and Latin America -made its harbors the Mecca of the Spanish fleets of those days. The gold -and silver mines of Mexico and South America poured their millions into -the Island after the year 1545, when the deposits of San Luis Potosi -were opened to the world, the volume of the output being brought to -Havana before distribution to Europe and other parts. - -Instead of ships making the transatlantic journey alone as at present, -large merchant fleets, laden with immense treasure, were convoyed by war -vessels at long intervals, as a safeguard against filibusters and -buccaneers as well as to preclude possible competition. - -In 1550 a monetary crisis occurred in Havana, owing to the failure of -the governor, Dr. Gonzalo Perez de Angulo, to enforce the provision of -the Spanish law, that the silver Real should be estimated at 34 -maravedis, instead of 40 to 44, the commercial rate prevailing at Vera -Cruz, Santo Domingo, Cartagena de las Indias and other points near the -silver mines. The governor, actuated by private interests, claimed that -conditions in Cuba justified the same rate as in these places, and that -the legal rate of 34 to 1, if applied, would drain the country of its -silver stock. - -These views were also expressed by travellers going from Mexico to -Spain, who were obliged to make a long stoppage in Havana, where their -money was exchanged, insisting that they should receive the larger or -commercial rate for their silver as in other places. - -Not disposed to change his attitude in the matter, the Spanish King -issued a royal circular reasserting the legal rate of 34 to 1 for Cuba, -under a penalty of 100,000 maravedis, instead of 10,000 as fixed in his -former order, for each violation. - -The sovereign mandate was complied with, as peace and policy required, -but this demand for a higher valuation of money in Cuba than in the -mother country is taken as the origin of the premium afterwards placed -on Spanish coin, with which the people of later times are familiar. - -When in the year 1779 the Spanish gold onza was coined, its par value -was estimated at 16 pesos in Spain. But in Cuba it was shortly -afterwards taken to represent 17 pesos, or a premium of about 6%, which -it continued to hold until the repatriation of Spanish money a few years -ago. This premium was expected to keep gold in the country, at an excess -valuation, along with the annual output of $800,000 in silver coming -from Mexico, sugar and tobacco being exported from Cuba to North America -and Europe as an offset thereto. - -[Illustration: LEOPOLDO CANCIO - -Born at Sancti Spiritus on May 30. 1851, Leopoldo Cancio y Luna rose to -eminence as a jurist, economist and financier; and for many years has -filled the chair of Economics and Finance in the University of Havana. -As one of the founders of the Autonomist party he became a Deputy in the -Spanish Cortes after the Ten Years' War. Under the Governorship of -General Brooke he was Assistant Secretary and under General Leonard Wood -he was Secretary of Finance, an office which he now fills in the Cabinet -of President Menocal. He was the author of the great monetary reforms of -1914.] - -When the modern Spanish centen or alfonsino, and the French Louis or 20 -franc gold piece, came into vogue, they were also admitted to Cuba at -the same ratio as the onza, namely a 6% premium or 17 to 18 -approximately, to the detriment of Cuban industry and commerce, -throughout the course of the nineteenth century. - -In the year 1868 Spain passed from a silver to a double standard, -adopting the peseta as the monetary unit, equal in weight and fineness -to the French franc and that of other countries of the Latin Union, -composed of France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland and Greece by the -monetary conventions of 1865 and 1868. The Isabellan silver escudo, -adopted in Spain as the unit by the law of June 24, 1864, was thereby -demonetized. - -But the Spanish peseta, consisting of gold or silver indifferently, -while circulating freely in Cuba along with French gold and American -currency in recent times till 1915, did not become the unit of value in -the Island. The Spanish gold dollar (peso oro Espanol), an imaginary -coin equal to five Spanish gold pesetas (of 24.8903 grains of pure gold -each) considered at a premium of 106, weighing 21.13 grains of fine gold -(as a result of the 6% premium), and circulating in the form of current -Spanish or French gold pieces, was taken as the standard. By reason of -such premium these coins were received in the country at $5.30 oro -espanol for the centen (25 peseta gold piece) and $4.24 oro espanol for -the Louis and doblon (25 franc and 25 peseta gold pieces of equal weight -and fineness), which values they held till the last of Spanish money -circulation in the Island. - -The use of Colonial paper money in Cuba, during the wars with the -Spanish government, did not substantially lessen the demand for actual -coin, and it was not until after the Spanish-American War of 1898 that -new conditions arose which afforded credit and security for the -introduction of a composite system of currency. - -When the American government was established at Santiago in 1898, one of -its first acts was to stabilize the currency of the eastern part of the -Island. United States money was forthwith adopted as the lawful medium -and Spanish silver was eliminated accordingly. In the provinces of -Havana, Pinar del Rio, Matanzas and Santa Clara, Spanish gold and silver -continued in use, along with French gold and U. S. currency, at varying -market quotations from day to day, until the adoption of a national -standard by the Cuban Congress under the law of October 29, 1914, by -virtue of which the Cuban gold peso, of weight and fineness similar to -the American dollar, was declared the unit, and United States money a -legal tender. - -Under the authority of the Secretary of Finance, Spanish and other -moneys were shipped abroad from Cuba as follows - - _Fiscal Year 1914-1915_ (ending June 30th): - United States $3,032,529.00 - Spain 1,435,192.00 - Canary Islands 66,000.00 $4,533,721.00 - - _Fiscal Year 1915-1916_: - United States 17,337,734.00 - Spain 17,411,003.00 - France 60,000.00 - Canary Islands 38,300.00 34,847,037.00 - - _Fiscal Year 1916-1917_: - United States 317,253.00 - Spain 24,332,707.00 - Mexico 45,000.00 - Canary Islands 13,240.00 24,708,200.00 - - Total, reduced to U. S. Currency $64,088,958.00 - -Of the above shipments, those to the United States were principally for -recoinage to Cuban gold of the new issue and were brought back later in -national coin. They also include $5,934,810.00 Spanish silver (value in -U.S. currency) sent to Spain between August, 1915, and June, 1917. This -delicate operation was affected gradually and in such a manner as not to -disturb the monetary or exchange values of the country. By June 1, 1916, -all conversions of accounts had been practically made to the new system. - -As a result of the new monetary law and its regulations, the entire -supply of Cuban money was minted at Philadelphia, through the medium of -the National Bank of Cuba, the Government Fiscal Agents, in the -following quantities: - - Gold Coins: $20 pieces $1,135,000 - 10 pieces 12,635,000 - 5 pieces 9,140,000 - 4 pieces 540,000 - 2 pieces 320,000 - 1 pieces 17,250 $23,787,250 - ---------- - Silver Coins: $1 pieces 2,819,000 - 40 pieces 1,128,000 - 20 pieces 2,090,000 - 10 pieces 625,000 6,662,000 - --------- - Nickel Coins: 5 pieces 340,450 - 2 pieces 228,210 - 1 pieces 187,120 755,780 - -------- - Total Coinage $31,205,030 - -The above national supply of coin, together with perhaps twice the same -amount of U. S. currency in general circulation, has been found -sufficient for the country's normal needs, and Cuba thereby -automatically becomes, in law and in fact, a part of the American -monetary system of the present day. - -As the country exports the bulk of its products and imports most -articles of consumption and use, including machinery and implements, it -follows that Cuba is in normal times one of the highest priced countries -of the world, and under conditions due to the European War the cost of -living is enormous. - -To move the country's resources annually requires the use of millions of -dollars from abroad, which the banks obtain and circulate in legal -tender (which means United States money and Cuban coin) according to -local demands. - -It follows, therefore, that the chief functions of banking in Cuba are -Discount, Deposit, Exchange, Collections, Collateral Loans, Foreign -Credits and the distribution of money throughout the country. - -The principal banks serving the financial needs of Cuba are the -following: - -The National City Bank of New York. Capital, $25,000,000. - -Banco Espaol de la Isla de Cuba. Capital, $8,000,000. - -Banco National de Cuba. Capital, $6,860,455. - -Banco Territorial de Cuba. Capital, $5,000,000. - -Royal Bank of Canada. Capital and surplus, $25,000,000. - -The Trust Company of Cuba. Capital, $500,000. - -Banco Mercantile Americano de Cuba. Capital, $2,000,000; surplus, -$500,000. - -Banco Prestatario de Cuba. Capital, $500,000. (Makes loans on personal -property, approved notes, mortgages, etc.) - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV - -PUBLIC INSTRUCTION - - -Thinking men and women, the world over, realize that the hope, security -and well being of the future lies in properly educating the children of -the present. From an educated community we have nothing to fear. -Mistakes in government policies may occur, but where intelligence -dwells, right and justice will soon prevail over wrong. Education to-day -is universally recognized as the most efficient and potent safeguard -against crime and lawlessness of all kind, and in no section of the -world is the need of general education more gravely manifest than in the -Latin-American Republics of the Western Hemisphere. - -Education in all of these countries, from the beginning of their -existence as colonies of Spain, has been, unfortunately under the -control of the Church, and with the exception of Cuba, largely so -remains to-day. Even in this progressive little Republic, the clerical -influence on tuition, from the kindergarten to the university, is more -or less prevalent. The influence of the priest and the prelate, exerted -in the home, usually through the mother, still casts its shadow over -true educational progress, especially among those of the gentler sex. -There are, of course, many well educated women in Cuba, but they are -women whose intellectual longings and aspirations could not be held in -check. - -True, some of the most brilliant men in Cuba have been pupils of church -institutions, but men of this stamp and minds of this calibre held from -birth all the promise and potency of greatness. Their intellectual -lights could not be hidden under the proverbial bushel. - -In 1896 the population of the Island was 1,572,791, of whom 1,400,884 -were unable to read, 33,003 knew how to read but not to write, while -19,158 had received the advantages of what was termed higher education. -Even this paucity of true knowledge was frequently superficial and sadly -warped by obsolete tradition. - -When, at the beginning of American intervention, that generous and able -group of American officers under General Wood took charge of affairs in -Cuba, the need of even a rudimentary education among the untutored -masses was painfully apparent. A report of conditions prevailing was -forwarded to Washington. Secretary Root referred the matter to President -Eliot of Harvard, and as a result Mr. Alexis E. Frye was sent to Havana -to establish in Cuba the American school system, or one as nearly like -that in vogue in the United States as conditions would permit. - -The selection of Mr. Frye was a wise one, and the people have never -ceased to be grateful for the admirable and unselfish efforts of that -remarkably clever teacher to place public instruction on a firm -foundation in Cuba. After going carefully over the ground and studying -the situation thoroughly Mr. Frye, working by candle light in a backroom -of the Hotel Pasaje, drafted the school law and wrote the rules and -regulations that today form the base of public instruction in the -island. Soon after, Mr. Frye was appointed Superintendent of Schools. -His salary was $400 a month, but every month's pay check was divided -into eight parts and distributed among those schools where it would do -the most good. He would accept no recompense whatever for himself. - -In the work of establishing a modern system of education in Cuba Mr. -Frye received valuable aid from a remarkably gifted and brilliant young -Cuban named Lincoln de Zayas. Dr. de Zayas was a descendant of one of -the most prominent families in Havana. He had been educated in the -United States, was graduated from the school of medicine of Columbia -University in New York, was a master of some five or six languages, and -knew the character of his own people. He assisted Mr. Frye in solving -many delicate problems and in overcoming troublesome obstacles, many of -which resulted from the former ecclesiastical control of everything -pertaining to education. Dr. Francisco Barrero, a writer, student and -poet, was made assistant director of education. - -During the second year of American intervention, Mr. Frye interested -Harvard University in the subject of Cuban education. This finally -resulted in an invitation from that institution to a large body of -potential Cuban teachers to come to Boston and enjoy during the summer -months special instruction provided for them by the president and -faculty of the University. Through Mr. Frye's efforts and those of -General Wood, then Military Governor of the Island, the Washington -government became interested in the school problem in Cuba, and through -the War Department furnished passage in one of the large American -transports for all teachers who cared to visit the United States in the -interest of Cuban education. Some 1600 teachers, mostly young ladies, -were selected from applicants in various parts of the Island, and -conveyed on the U.S. transport General McClellan to the city of Boston, -where they were comfortably lodged and cared for during a period of -three months as guests of Harvard University. - -The direct educational benefit derived by these young Cuban teachers was -almost incalculable. A great majority of them had no knowledge whatever -of the English language, and knew but little of the outside world. The -press of Cuba in those days was limited in its fund of general -information or other matter that might be of educational value to the -reading public. Nor had education, especially among women, been -encouraged during the days of Spain's control over the island. - -The summer work at Harvard was a revelation. The educational seed fell -upon receptive soil, and the young teachers who were fortunate enough to -be selected as guests of that institution gave an excellent account of -themselves in work that followed during the early days of the Republic. -Incidentally Mr. Frye chose one of these young teachers as his companion -through life. After Mr. Frye's departure, Lieut. Hanna, at the -suggestion of General Wood, made some changes and additions to the -public school system of Cuba, conforming it somewhat to the methods then -in vogue in the State of Ohio. - -With the installation of the Cuban Republic in 1902 public instruction -came directly under the supervision of the Central or Federal -Government, and the Secretary of Public Instruction was made a member of -the President's Cabinet, adding thus dignity and importance to that -branch of work on which the character of succeeding generations -depended. Unfortunately for the cause of education it has been found -rather difficult to separate the Department of Public Instruction from a -certain amount of political interference, which has tended to mar its -efficiency and retard progress. - -With the beginning of the second Government of Intervention in 1906, Dr. -Lincoln de Zayas was made Secretary of Public Instruction under Governor -Magoon, and with his untiring devotion to the cause of true knowledge, -as well as his keen insight into the modern or more improved methods of -teaching, interest in public instruction in Cuba was greatly revived, -and English began to assume a far more important role in the primary and -grammar schools than in former days. - -The services of an excellent teacher, Miss Abbie Phillips, of -California, was secured as General Superintendent of English throughout -the Republic, and under her direction was formed a corps of remarkably -competent Cuban women, who accomplished much in a short time towards -making the study of English in the public schools more popular than it -had been. With the death of Dr. de Zayas the cause of public instruction -seemed again partially to relapse into its former desuetude. Yet in -spite of the misfortune that thus befell it, the work has proceeded more -satisfactorily than might have been expected, owing to the strong -desire on the part of the youth of the Republic to learn, and to shake -off the fetters that had previously kept them in a kind of a respectable -ignorance. - -During President Menocal's administration the resignation of the -Secretary of Public Instruction gave opportunity for the selection and -appointment to that office of Dr. Dominguez Roldan, who has endeavored -to inject new life into the cause and to place this important branch of -the Government once more in a position that will command the respect, -not only of the people of Cuba, but also of the outside world. New -school houses, designed expressly for the purpose, are replacing the old -and inadequate buildings that were formerly rented. The study of -English, that had been discouraged by his predecessor, is being again -revived, and many steps in the cause of learning are being taken whose -wisdom will become evident in the near future. - -In 1913, when Mario G. Menocal assumed the direction of the Government -of Cuba, there were but 262 schools in the island, while to-day there -are 1136, showing an increase of 1074; with 335,291 pupils attending. No -fewer than 1746 teachers have been appointed and added to the Department -of Public Instruction in Cuba. In addition to this two night schools -have recently been established, one in Santiago de Cuba and one in -Bayamo. Four kindergartens, or "School Gardens," as they are now termed, -have recently been established in the Province of Santa Clara. - -At the present time, throughout the Republic of Cuba, there is a total -of 5,685 teachers in the primary schools. Among these are included 116 -teachers who render special service throughout the different sections of -the country, 19 teachers of night schools, 118 teachers devoted to -school gardens, 40 teachers of cutting and sewing, 26 teachers of -English, 21 of Sloyd, and 4 teachers devoted to instruction in jails. In -1915 a normal school, co-educational, was established in each of five of -the Provinces. Havana has two normal schools, one for boys and the -other for girls. - -During the year 1918 a school of Domestic Economy, Arts and Sciences, -known as the "School of the Home," was established. The object of this -school, as that of similar institutions, is to prepare the future wife -and mother so that she may be able to undertake in an intelligent manner -the direction of the home. Among the subjects taught are accounting, -domestic economy, moral and civic obligations, hygiene, the care of -infants and of the sick, cutting, sewing, dressmaking, basket-making, -and elementary physics and chemistry, which form the base of scientific -cooking. In addition to these, gardening, the care of animals, ordinary -and higher cooking are taught; also washing and ironing, dyeing, the -removing of stains, and the proper method of cleaning and taking care of -shoes. In order to make the school popular and to insure its success, a -society of patriotic and intelligent women has been formed, from which -much practical benefit is expected in the future. - -In order to provide for and to permit the scientific development both -physical and mental of the Cuban youth, the Department of Public -Instruction has established a separate institution, with an experimental -annex, for the purpose of studying the eccentricities and aptitudes of -Cuban children. - -The order of sequence of public instruction in Cuba, as previously -stated, has followed very largely that of the United States. The school -gardens are followed by primary and grammar schools, all suitably -graded, and the course of studies is more or less similar to that of the -United States. - -The Institute of Havana, located for many years in the old convent -building just back of the Governor General's Palace, occupies a place -between the grammar school and the University. The course of studies and -scope of this institution is similar to the average high school of -America. New buildings are being erected for the accommodation of the -several thousand boys and girls who attend the institute, and with its -removal to more commodious and congenial quarters, this important seat -of learning will be reorganized with greatly increased efficiency. - -The National University of Havana was founded under the direction of -monks of the Dominican Order on January 5, 1728, and until the -installation of the Republic occupied the old convent that afterwards -served as the Institute. To-day the University of Havana can boast of -one of the most picturesque and delightful locations occupied by any -seat of learning in the world. It crowns the northeast corner of the -high plateau, overlooking the capital of the Republic from the west. Its -altitude is several hundred feet above the plain below, with the Gulf of -Mexico close by on the north and old Morro Castle standing at the -entrance of a beautiful harbor, that stretches out along the far eastern -horizon, sweeping afterwards toward the south. The city of Havana fills -the center of the picture, while in the immediate foreground nestle the -forests of the Botanical Gardens and the Quinto de los Molinos, or -summer residence of the former Spanish Governor Generals, with their -beautiful drives sweeping along the front and up to the crest of the -plateau. - -The broad stone staircase at the entrance to the grounds is quite in -keeping with the dignity of the place and the numerous buildings devoted -to various departments of learning are harmonious in design and -commodious in appointment. A giant laurel, with an expanse of shade that -would protect a small army of men, occupied the center of an old -courtyard that once belonged to the fortifications commanding the -Principe Heights. - -To these buildings will soon be added another to be known as the -National School of Languages, at a cost of $150,000. This edifice, -sumptuous in its appointments, will be dedicated largely to the -reciprocal study of Spanish and English. American students who wish to -perfect their knowledge of Spanish will be invited from the various -universities of the United States to visit Cuba, at stated periods of -the year, for the purpose of studying and improving their acquaintance -with this language through direct contact with the students and -professors of the University. The latter, on the other hand, will be -afforded an excellent opportunity to perfect their knowledge of English -by mingling with visiting students from the United States, and it is -believed that the result of acquaintances and friendships, formed in -this way, many of which will be sustained through life, will add greatly -to those bonds of friendship and mutual understanding that resulted from -America's assistance to Cuba in her War for Independence, and that for a -thousand reasons should never be permitted to relapse or sink into -indifference. - -The national or public library of Cuba, located in the Maestranza, one -of the most substantial of those old buildings that have come down from -the days of Spanish dominion, was founded during the first American -intervention by General Leonard Wood, on October 18, 1901. It is open to -the public every day of the week except Sunday, from 8 to 11 in the -morning and from 1 to 5 in the afternoon, except Saturday, when access -may be secured at any time between 8 and 12 in the morning. - -The library contains at the present time about twenty thousand volumes. -This does not however include a great mass of pamphlets and unbound -manuscripts, documents, papers, etc., which form a valuable part of the -collection. These volumes are largely in Spanish, French and English, -and include all of the more important branches of human knowledge. Among -them may be found an excellent collection of the best encyclopedias and -dictionaries of those languages. - -Its collection of American History is extensive; in addition to which -may be mentioned a valuable collection of works on international law, -given by the eminent jurist Dr. Antonio S. de Bustamante, who -represented the Republic of Cuba at the Peace Conference in Paris at -the conclusion of the Great War. - -Among other gifts to the public library may be mentioned a series of -large, beautiful, artistic drawings in colors, that represent all that -is known of the Aztec and Toltec life existing in the Republic of Mexico -at the time of the Spanish Conquest in the early part of the 16th -century. These engravings have been drawn and colored with marvelous -care. They are assembled in the form of an atlas which permits close -study and makes one of the most interesting and valuable contributions -of this kind to be found in any part of the world. They were presented -to Cuba by General Porfirio Diaz, President of the Republic of Mexico. - -Arrangements have been made to catalogue the volumes of the library. For -this purpose experts have been secured and the space amplified, and when -this work is completed, while the library will not offer the luxurious -quarters of institutions of its kind in other countries, it will be -useful and accessible to those who wish to avail themselves of its -services. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXV - -OCEAN TRANSPORTATION - - -Transportation is the handmaid of production. Where transportation -facilities are faulty, exchange of commodities is necessarily restricted -to local demands, and commerce with the outside world is practically -impossible. Good harbors are among the first essentials to foreign -trade, and with deep, well protected bays, Cuba has been bountifully -supplied. Every sheltered indentation of her two thousand miles of coast -line, from the days of Colon, has been an invitation for passing ships -to enter. The wealth of the island in agriculture and mineral and forest -products, has made the visits of these ocean carriers profitable; hence -the phenomenal growth of Cuba's foreign commerce. - -In spite of the stupid restriction of trade enforced by Spain in the -early colonial days, contraband commerce assumed large proportions -during the 17th century, and when England's fleet captured Havana in -1763, the capital of Cuba enjoyed a freedom of foreign exchange never -before known. Quantities of sugar, coffee, hides and hardwoods, large -for those times, demanded transportation during the second quarter of -the 19th century. Foreign trade, too, was greatly stimulated in Cuba by -conditions resulting from the Civil War in the United States. The rapid -development of the sugar industry following this war soon called for -more permanent lines of ocean transportation. - -[Illustration: THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, HAVANA - -The Chamber of Commerce is one of the oldest civic organizations in -Cuba, which even under the repressive and discouraging rule of Spanish -Governors did much for the material progress of the Island. Under the -Republic its activities and achievements have of course been immensely -increased, and it is now appropriately housed in one of the finest -public buildings of the capital. A certain resemblance to the famous -Cooper Union building in New York has often been remarked, though the -Havana edifice is the more ornate and attractive of the two.] - -The interdependence of produce and transportation is well illustrated in -the early history of what is now known as the United Fruit Company. In -1870, Captain Lorenzo D. Baker was in command of a small, swift coasting -schooner en route from Jamaica to Boston. On the wharf at Kingston -lay some 40 bunches of bananas, a few of which were ripe, others lacking -10 days or more in which to change their dull green coats into the soft -creamy yellow of the matured fruit. Captain Baker was fond of bananas, -and ordered that the lot be placed on board his schooner, just before -sailing. Fortune favored him and strong easterly beam winds brought him -into the harbor of Boston in 10 days, with all of the bunches not -consumed en route in practically perfect condition. Many friends of -Capt. Baker, to whom this delicious fruit was practically unknown, got a -taste of the banana for the first time. Among these was Andrew W. -Preston, a local fruit dealer in Boston, who was greatly impressed with -the appearance of the fruit, and the success which had attended Captain -Baker's effort to get the bananas into the market without injury. - -Mr. Preston reckoned that if a schooner with a fair wind could land such -delicious fruit in Boston in ten days, steamers could do the same work -with absolute certainty in less time. This far sighted pioneer and -promoter of trade realized that three factors were essential to building -up an industry of this kind. First, there must be a market for the -product, and he was confident that the people of Boston and the vicinity -could soon be educated to like the banana and to purchase it if offered -at a fair price. Next, a sufficient and steady supply must be provided. -Third, reliable transportation in the form of steamers of convenient -size and suitable equipment must be secured, in order to convey the -fruit with economy and regularity to the waiting market or point of -consumption. True, he at first failed to interest other fruit dealers in -the project. "It had never been done and consequently was a dangerous -innovation that would probably prove unprofitable." But Mr. Preston had -visualized a new industry on a large scale, and with the faith of the -industrial pioneer he finally succeeded in persuading nine of his -friends to put up with him each $2,000, and to form a company for the -purpose of growing bananas in the West Indies, of chartering a steamer -suitable for the transportation, and finding a market for the produce in -Boston. - -The details were worked out carefully and the first cargo purchased in -Jamaica and landed in New England proved a decided success. During the -first two or three years the accruing dividends were invested in fruit -lands in Jamaica and everything went well. Not long after, however, it -was found that a West Indian cyclone could destroy a banana field and -put it out of business in a very few hours. More than one field or -locality in which to grow bananas on a large scale was necessary to -provide against the possible failure of the crop at some other point. - -In the meantime another broad minded and determined pioneer in the world -of progress, Minor C. Keith, a youth of 23, was trying to build a -railroad some 90 miles in length from Puerto Limon to the capital, San -Jose, in the highlands of Costa Rica. The greater part of this road was -through dense jungle and forest almost impenetrable, with nothing in the -shape of freight or passengers from which revenues could be derived -until the road was completed to the capital. Mr. Keith had a concession -from the Costa Rican Government, but the Government had no funds with -which to aid the builder in his enterprise, and this young engineer, -through force of character and moral suasion, kept his two thousand -workmen in line without one dollar of money for over 18 months. Food he -managed to scrape up from various sources, but the payday was -practically forgotten. In the meantime, some banana plants were secured -from a plantation in Colombia, and set out on the virgin soils along the -roadway through which Mr. Keith was laying his rails. These grew -marvellously, and not only supplied fruit for the Jamaica negroes -engaged in the work, but soon furnished bananas for export to New -Orleans, and thus was started a rival industry to that of Mr. Preston, -on the shores of the Western Caribbean. - -It was not long before Mr. Keith, who struggled for 20 years to -complete his line from the coast to the capital of Costa Rica, came into -contact with Mr. Preston. These captains of industry realized the -advantages of co-operation, and in a very short time organized the -United Fruit Company, which is probably the greatest agricultural -transportation company in the world to-day. Its various plantations -include lands in Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Honduras, Guatemala and -Jamaica. Large plantations of bananas belonging to the company were -until recently on the harbors of Banes and Nipe, on the north coast of -Oriente, in the Island of Cuba, but these were subjected to strong -breezes from the northeast that whipped the leaves and hindered their -growth. Then too, it was soon discovered that these lands were better -adapted to the cultivation of sugar cane, hence bananas of the United -Fruit Company disappeared from the Nipe Bay district, to be replaced by -sugar plantations that to-day cover approximately 37,000 acres and in -1920 will reach 50,000 acres. Over 200,000 acres on the coast of the -Caribbean are devoted to the cultivation of bananas. About 30,000 head -of cattle are maintained as a source of food for the thousands of -laborers, mostly Jamaicans, who are employed in the fields of the United -Fruit Company, which comprise an aggregate of 1,980,000 acres; while 743 -miles of standard gauge railway, together with 532 miles of narrow gauge -roads, are owned and operated throughout the various plantations. - -In the year 1915, 46,000,000 bunches of bananas were shipped by the -United Fruit Company from the shores of the Caribbean to the United -States, while the sugar plantations owned by the Company on the north -coast of Oriente Province, in Cuba, produced sugar in 1918 that yielded -a net return of $5,000,000. - -In order to provide transportation for this enormous agricultural output -this company to-day owns and operates one of the biggest fleets of -steamships in the world. Forty-five of these ships, with tonnages -varying from 3,000 to 8,000, especially equipped for the banana trade, -and with the best of accommodations for passengers, have an aggregate -tonnage of 250,000; while 49 other steamers were chartered by the -company before the war, making the total tonnage employed in the -carrying trade approximately half a million. - -Nearly all these steamers, which connect the coast of the Caribbean with -New York, Boston and New Orleans, touch, both coming and going, at the -City of Havana, thus giving that port the advantage of unexcelled -transportation facilities, and connecting Cuba not only with the more -important cities of the Gulf of Mexico, New York and New England, but -also with Jamaica, Caribbean ports, and the South American Republics -lying beyond the Isthmus of Panama, along the western shores of that -continent. - -No steamship line perhaps has been more closely related to the -commercial development of Cuba than has the New York & Cuba Mail -Steamship Company. This line had its origin in a carrying trade between -Cuba and the United States started by the firm of James E. Ward & Co. -The members of the firm were Mr. James E. Ward, Mr. Henry B. Booth and -Mr. Wm. T. Hughes. The Company was incorporated under the laws of the -State of New York and formally organized in July, 1881, with Mr. Ward as -President, Mr. Booth as Vice President and Mr. Hughes as Secretary and -Treasurer. When first organized the Company had only four ships, the -_Newport_, _Saratoga_, _Niagara_ and _Santiago_, with a gross tonnage of -10,179. Between the date of its organization and its transfer to the -Maine Corporation, or during a period of 26 years, the company acquired -19 vessels, with a total gross tonnage of 84,411. In addition to the -above the company has operated under foreign flags eight other ships -aggregating a tonnage of 26,624. - -The four original steamers mentioned above were owned in part by the -builders, Messrs. John Roach & Son, and a few other individuals. The -original firm however sold its ships to the Company at the time of its -reorganization. Of the vessels acquired by the company, the majority -were built under contract by Messrs. Roach & Son, and Wm. Cramp & Sons' -Ship and Engine Building Company. Among the ships that were purchased -and not built especially for this company, were the two sister ships -_Seguranca_ and _Vigilancia_, built in 1890 for the Brazil Line. The -steamships _City of Washington_ and _City of Alexandria_ were originally -owned by the Alexandria Line, and passed into the hands of the Ward Line -after its organization. The _Matanzas_, formerly the Spanish steamer -_Guido_, that had left London with a valuable cargo of food, munitions -and money with which to pay off Spanish troops in Cuba, was captured by -the American forces during the early part of the war with Spain, in an -attempt to run the blockade that had been established, and was -afterwards sold by the American Government to the Ward Line. - -The business of this company, after its organization, began with a -passenger and freight service connecting the cities of Havana, Santiago -and Cienfuegos with New York. With the acquisition of the Alexandria -Line, the service of the company was extended to Mexico, and a number of -ports have been added to its itinerary both in Cuba and in Mexico. The -line to-day maintains a service on each of the following routes: New -York to Havana and return; New York to Havana, Progreso, Yucatan, and -Vera Cruz, returning via Progreso and Havana to New York; New York to -Tampico, Mexico, calling occasionally on return voyages at other ports -when cargoes are offered; New York to Guantanamo, Santiago, Manzanillo -and Cienfuegos, returning according to the demands of shipping -interests; New York to Nassau, in the Bahamas, Havana, and return. The -sailings average about five a week and schedules are prepared from time -to time to meet the requirements of trade. Passengers on this line are -carried in three distinct classes, first cabin, intermediate, and -steerage, the vessels being constructed with reference to suitable -accommodations for the various classes. - -The principal railway and other connections are as follows: At New York -in general with all railroads terminating at that port, as well as all -foreign and domestic water lines that move traffic via that port; at -Havana with the United Railways of Havana and the Cuba Railroad; at -Tampico with the Mexican Central Railway for interior points in Mexico; -at Progreso with the United Railways of Yucatan for Merida, Campeche and -other interior points; at Vera Cruz with the National Railways of Mexico -and the Interoceanic Railroad for interior points of Mexico, as well as -with the Vera Cruz and Pacific Railroad for interior points of Mexico -and the Pacific Coast; at Puerto Mexico with the Tehuantepec National -Railway, for points on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and on the Pacific -Coast. Connection is also made at Vera Cruz with the Compaia Mexicana -de Navegacion for traffic to Tuxpam, Coatzacoalcos, Tlacotalpam and -Frontera, ports on the Gulf of Mexico. At Santiago connection is made -with the Cuba Eastern Railway and Cuba Railroad for points throughout -the interior of Cuba; at Guantanamo with the Cuba Eastern Railway and at -Cienfuegos with the Cuban Central Railroad. - -The company has contracts with the United States Government for the -transportation of mails between New York and Havana, and between New -York, Havana and Mexico. It also has a contract with the Bahamas -Government for the transportation of mails. - -The following is a list of the vessels owned or operated by the company. - - STEAMERS: - - _Havana_ - _Saratoga_ - _Mexico_ - _Morro Castle_ - _Esperanza_ - _Matanzas_ - _Antilla_ - _Camaguey_ - _Santiago_ - _Bayamo_ - _Monterey_ - _Segurancia_ - _Vigilancia_ - _Seneca_ - _Manzanillo_ - _Yumuri_ - _Guantanamo_ - - - TUGS AND STEAM LIGHTERS: - - _Colonia_ - _Nautilus_ - _Neptuno_ - _Hercules_ - _Auxiliar_ - _Comport_ - _Edwin Brandon_ - -The total gross tonnage of the steamers and tugs above mentioned is -84,000 tons. - -One of the oldest and most important lines in the carrying trade of the -Caribbean is known as the Munson Steamship Line, and was founded in 1872 -by Walter D. Munson. The trade began with sailing vessels but the -increase in traffic was so great that these were soon replaced with -steamers. The steamships in the service of the Munson Line to-day number -140, with an average tonnage of 2,500 tons each, dead weight. - -These vessels sail from nearly every port in Cuba, connecting the Island -with nearly all of the Atlantic and Gulf Coast ports of the United -States. The passenger steamers of the Munson Line ply between New York, -Nuevitas and Nipe Bay of the Province of Oriente. The passenger -steamers, although not touching at Havana, are equipped for the -accommodation of passengers that leave from the ports of the eastern -provinces of the Island. - -During the late European War twelve of the Munson steamships were placed -in the service of the United States and three under the British flag. - -The Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company operates a daily -passenger, mail and freight service between Havana and Key West, -Florida. Since 1912 this company has maintained practically a daily -service between the two ports and maintains also a bi-weekly service -between Havana and Port Tampa, Florida. Owing to the frequency of the -sailings, the P. & O. SS. Co. is considered the official mail route -between the United States and Cuba. - -The company operates also the Florida East Coast Car-Ferry freight -service between Havana and Key West. This service was made possible by -the extension of the Florida East Coast Railroad from the southern -points of the peninsula out over the long line of keys that terminates -in the Island of Key West. - -The erection of this viaduct, built at an enormous expense, of stone and -concrete, was the realization of Henry W. Flagler's dream of modern -transportation facilities between the United States and Cuba. The car -ferry service was inaugurated in January, 1915. At the present time two -of these great car ferryboats, with a capacity of 28 standard freight -cars each, make a round trip every twenty-four hours between the two -ports. These two vessels transport approximately 1,150 cars in and out -of Cuba every month, carrying over 35,000 tons each way in that length -of time. - -Since the inauguration of the service more business has been offered -than can be handled during certain months of the year, and it has been -found necessary to refuse large quantities of cargo destined for the -Republic of Cuba. The advantage of this service to the Cuban fruit and -vegetable growers has been very great, since they are enabled to load in -the Cuban fields freight cars belonging to almost every line in the -United States, so that this produce may be shipped direct, without -breaking bulk, to any market in the United States. - -In the year 1870 the Pinillos Izquierdo Line of steamers was established -between Spain and the Island of Cuba. The home office of this line is in -Cadiz, Spain. Their vessels are engaged in freight and passenger service -touching at the following points in the Peninsula: Barcelona, Palma de -Majorca, Valencia, Alicante, Malaga, Cadiz, Vigo, Gijon and Santander. - -En route the Canary Island and Porto Rico are also visited while the -terminal points on this side of the Atlantic are New Orleans, -Galveston, Havana and Santiago de Cuba. All of their steamers carry -mail. Their fleet consists of nine steamers with a combined tonnage of -78,000 tons as follows: - - Infanta Isabel 16,500 tons 2000 passengers - Cadiz 10,500 tons 1500 passengers - Barcelona 10,500 tons 1500 passengers - Valbanera 10,500 tons 1500 passengers - Catalina 8,000 tons 1000 passengers - Martin Sena 5,500 tons 800 passengers - Balmes 6,500 tons 800 passengers - Conde Wifredo 5,500 tons 800 passengers - Miguel M. Pinillos 4,500 tons 500 passengers - ------ - 78,000 tons - -The Southern Pacific, originally known as the Morgan line, established a -transportation service between Gulf ports and the Island of Cuba many -years ago, beginning with two side-wheel walking-beam steamboats of -about 800 tons dead weight. They were heavy consumers of coal and had a -speed of from 9-1/2 to 11 knots. A few years later the steamers -_Hutchinson_ and _Arkansas_, both side wheelers, were added to the -fleet. Still later the single propeller steamers _Excelsior_ and -_Chalmette_, of about 2,400 tons each, were placed in the service of the -Southern Pacific Line. These combined freight and passenger boats were -well built and seaworthy fourteen knot steamers, of an equipment -considered modern at that time. The _Louisiana_ entered the service in -1900, but owing to an error in loading freight, it turned turtle at the -docks in New Orleans and became a total loss. The _Excelsior_ and -_Chalmette_ are still maintaining an efficient weekly service between -New Orleans and Havana. - -The _Compagnie General Transatlantique_, generally known as the French -Line, connecting western France, Northern Spain and the Canary Islands, -with Cuba, Porto Rico, Vera Cruz, Mexico, and the city of New Orleans, -was established in 1860. - -St. Nazaire on the Bay of Biscay in France is the headquarters of this -line. Their steamers touch at Santander and Corua on the north coast of -Spain; at the Canary Islands, Porto Rico, Martinique, Santiago de Cuba, -Havana, Vera Cruz, and New Orleans. Their fleet consists of 13 ships -with a combined tonnage of 153,500 tons. - -The steamship _Lafayette_, of 15,000 tons, is equipped for the -accommodation of 1,620 passengers. The _Espana_, of 15,000 tons, carries -1,500 passengers; the _Flanders_, of 12,000 tons, carries 1,250 -passengers; the _Venizia_, of 12,000 tons, carries 700 passengers; the -_Navarre_, of 10,000 tons, carries 1,000 passengers; the _Venezuela_, of -7,000 tons, carries 500 passengers. - -The _Caroline_, the _Mississippi_ and the _Georgie_ are each steamers of -13,000 tons. The _Honduras_ is a 12,000 ton ship; the _Hudson_ 11,000 -tons; the _Californie_ 10,500 tons, and the _Virginie_ 10,000 tons. The -seven last mentioned vessels carry cargo only. - -During August, 1919, the 7,000 ton steamer _Panama Canal_ arrived in -Cuba from Japan, inaugurating a new steamship line between Japan and the -United States, touching at Cuban ports. The line is known as the Osaka -Shosen Kaisha, of Osaka, Japan. The fleet consists of 186 steamers -plying between Japan and different parts of the world. The headquarters -for this company has been established at Chicago, Illinois, owing to -connections that have been made with the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul -Railroad. - -Steamers eastward bound from Japan will bring rice and general cargo, -most of which will be consigned to the Island of Cuba, owing to the -heavy consumption of that article of food in that Republic. New Orleans -will be the terminus in the United States of the line. On the initial -trip of the _Panama Canal_ 50,000 sacks of rice grown in Japan were -consigned to Cuban merchants in Santiago de Cuba and Cienfuegos. The -return cargoes will be composed largely of cotton, taken aboard at New -Orleans, and with sugar and tobacco shipped from Cuba to the Orient. -This line has begun with one sailing each way per month, all steamers -touching at Havana for freight and passengers. - -The Customs regulations of Cuba require five sets of invoices for Havana -and four for all other points; which must be written in ink, in either -English or Spanish. If they are typewritten the original imprint must be -included, but the others may be carbon copies. Invoices must give the -names of shippers and consignees, and of vessels; marks and numbers, -description of merchandise, gross and net weights by metric system, -price, value, and statement of expenses incurred. If there are no -expenses, that fact must be stated. Prices must be detailed, on each -article, and not in bulk. Descriptions of merchandise must be detailed, -telling the materials of each article and of all its parts. Descriptions -of fabrics must tell the nature of the fibre, character of weave, dye, -number of threads in six square millimeters, length and width of piece, -weight, price, and value. All measurements must be in metric units. - -At the foot of each sheet of the invoice must be a signed declaration, -in Spanish, telling whether the articles are or are not products of the -soil or industry of the United States. If the manufacturer or shipper is -not a resident of the place where the consulate is situated, he must -appoint in writing a local agent to present the invoice and the agent -must write and sign a declaration concerning his appointment. Stated -forms are prescribed and are furnished by consuls for manufacturers, -producers, owners, sellers and shippers. - -Freight charges to the shipping port, custom house and statistical fees, -stamps, wharfage and incidental expenses must be included in the -dutiable value of goods, and must be stated separately; but insurance -and consular fees must not be included. - -Each invoice must cover a single, distinct shipment, by one vessel to -one consignee. Separate consignments must not be included in one -invoice. Invoices under $5, covering products of the soil or industry of -the United States must be certified in order to enjoy the provisions of -the reciprocity treaty between the two countries. Invoices and -declarations must be written on only one side of the paper, and no -erasures, corrections, alterations or additions must be made, unless -stated in a signed declaration. - -Domestic and foreign merchandise from the United States must be -separately invoiced. Invoices are not required on shipments of foreign -goods of less value than $5. - -Fabrics of mixed fibres must be so stated, with a statement of the -proportion of the principal material, upon which the duty is to be -computed. Cotton goods pay duty according to threads, and silk and wool -ad valorem. Samples of cotton goods are taken at the custom house, and -should be provided for that purpose to avoid mutilation of the piece. -Duties on ready made clothing are based on the chief outside fabric. A -surtax of 100% is placed on ready-made cotton clothing, and a surtax of -30% on colored threads. - -Two copies of each set of bills of lading must be given, but on -merchandise of less than $5 value need not be certified. - -Invoices covering shipments of automobile vehicles must state maker, -name of car, style of car, year of make, maker's number on motor, number -of cylinders, horse power, and passenger capacity. - -If after an invoice has been certified it or any part of it is delayed -in shipment, the steamship company must mark on the bill of lading -opposite the delayed goods "Short Shipped," but the invoice need not be -recertified. The consignee should, however, be informed. - -The list of articles admitted into Cuba free of duty comprises samples -of fabrics, felt, and wall paper, of a prescribed size, samples of lace -and trimmings, and samples of hosiery, provided that they are rendered -unfit for any other purpose than that of samples; trained animals, -animals, portable theatres, and other articles for public -entertainment, not to remain in Cuba longer than three months; -receptacles in which fruits or liquids were exported from Cuba and which -are being returned empty; furniture, clothing and other personal -property of immigrants, or of travellers, showing evidence of having -already been used; agricultural implements not including machinery; and -pictures, posters, catalogues, calendars, etc., not for sale but for -free distribution for advertising purposes. - -The importation into Cuba is forbidden or restricted of foreign coins of -anything but gold, save those of the United States; gunpowder, dynamite -and other explosives, save by special permit of the Interior Department; -and silencers for firearms. Arms of more than .32 caliber, .44 caliber -revolvers, and automatic pistols require special permit. - -Consular fees for certification are: On shipments worth less than $5, -nothing; from $5 upward and less than $50, fifty cents; from $50 upward -and less than $200, $2; over $200, $2 plus ten cents for each $100 or -fraction thereof. Extra copies of invoices, 50 cents each. Invoice -blanks, ten cents a set. Certifying bills of lading, $1. - -Cuban consulates are situated in the United States and its possessions -as follows: Atlanta, Ga.; Baltimore, Md.; Boston, Mass.; Brunswick, Ga.; -Chattanooga, Tenn.; Chicago, Ill.; Cincinnati, Ohio.; Detroit, Mich.; -Fernandina, Fla.; Galveston, Tex.; Gulfport, Miss.; Jacksonville, Fla.; -Kansas City, Mo.; Key West, Fla.; Los Angeles, Cal.; Louisville, Ky.; -Mobile, Ala.; New Orleans, La.; New York; Newport News, Va.; Norfolk, -Va.; Pascagoula, Miss.; Pensacola, Fla.; Philadelphia, Penn.; San -Francisco, Cal.; Savannah, Ga.; St. Louis, Mo.; Tampa, Fla.; Washington, -D. C.; and Aguadilla, Arecibo, Mayagues, Ponce, and San Juan, Porto -Rico. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVI - -AMERICAN COLONIES IN CUBA - - -American soldiers returning to the United States at the conclusion of -her little war with Spain, in the summer of 1898, brought wonderful -stories of Cuba, with glowing accounts of her climate, her rainfall, her -rich soil and natural advantages. Schemes for the colonization of the -Island were immediately formed and some of them put into effect during -the early days of the Government of Intervention. - -Unfortunately, most of these enterprises originated with speculators, -and so-called land-sharks, who sought only to secure large tracts of -territory, at the smallest possible cost, and with the assistance of -attractive literature place them on the market in the United States, at -prices which would enable them, even when sold on the installment plan -to make a thousand percent or more profit on the capital invested. - -This method of settling up the country would not have been so -objectionable had the promoters of the schemes taken the pains to locate -their colonies in those sections of the Island where transportation -facilities, if not immediately available, could at least be reasonably -sure in the near future. - -Up to the present, a logical, common sense plan in the colonization in -this Island has in no instance been carried out. On the contrary, every -American colony that has yet been established in Cuba, and her adjacent -Islands, has been located with disregard to the first essentials of -success. These hapless experiments have met with a fate that was -inevitable and in most instances can be described with one word -"Failure." - -The first American Colony in Cuba was started on Broadway, New York -City, by a land speculator, who, through correspondence, learned of a -large property that could be had in Cuba with a small cash payment, at -what seemed to be a ridiculously low price; in other words at about 80 -cents an acre. An option was secured on several thousand acres, the -larger part of which, perhaps, was available for general agricultural -purposes. But the location with reference to transportation facilities -was one of the most unfortunate that could have been selected. This -colony was called La Gloria, and while La Gloria has not been a failure, -nothing in the world has saved it but the pluck, and persistent and -intelligent effort of a courageous and most commendable community of -Americans. - -Some 800 of these, not knowing where they were going, other than that it -was somewhere in Cuba, were dumped by a chartered steamer in the harbor -of Nuevitas, 40 miles from their destination. This they afterwards -reached with the aid of light draft schooners, or shallow, flat-bottom -boats, pushed through a muddy ditch some three or four miles, and as -many more over sand shoals, where the passengers were compelled to get -out and wade. Worse than all, when finally landed on the south shore of -Guajaba Bay, they were obliged to wade through a swamp for another five -miles, in mud knee-deep, or more, in order to reach the high ground on -which they were to make their future homes in a foreign land. - -Many of these colonists, disappointed and deceived, failed to stand the -strain, and those who had the necessary funds, or could borrow, returned -disgusted to their homes in the United States. Others, after studying -the soil and noting the splendid growth of forest and vegetation, lulled -into resignation by soft, cool breezes from the Atlantic Ocean, and the -bright sunshine that seldom missed a day, made up their minds to stick -to the game and to see it out, which they did. - -Their efforts in the end were crowned with a certain degree of success, -and the near future holds out to them the promise of fairly satisfactory -transportation for their fruit, vegetables and other products, to -profitable markets, both in Cuba and the United States. - -The colony of La Gloria in the fall of 1918 contained about 75 families -and comprised, all told, probably 500 people. This estimate includes the -little nearby settlements of Guanaja, Punta Pelota, Columbia, Canasi, -The Garden, and other little suburbs or groups of families, scattered -throughout the district. - -With the Cubans, the people of La Gloria have always maintained the most -friendly relations, while mutual esteem and respect is the rule of the -district. The Mayor of La Gloria, a Cuban, was elected by popular vote, -and is highly esteemed in the community as a man who has been always an -enthusiastic and efficient supporter of the interests of the colony. -Seventy per cent of the population is American. La Gloria has always -been fortunate in having a good school in which both Spanish and English -are taught. - -The town itself is located on the northern edge of the plateau, or rise -of ground overlooking the savanna that separates it from the bay. A -fairly good road some five miles in length, built at Government expense, -connects the town with the wharf, whence, up to the winter of 1918, all -produce was sent for shipment to the harbor of Nuevitas some forty miles -east by launch. - -The streets are very wide, shaded with beautiful flowering flamboyans, -and the houses, many of them two stories in height, are built of native -woods, cedar, mahogany, etc., products of the saw mills of the -neighborhood. These, as a rule, are kept painted, and the general -appearance of the town, although not bustling with business, is one of -comfort, cleanliness and thrift. - -It is not an exaggeration to state that there is no little town in -conservative New England where less of waste, or disfiguring material, -even in back yards, or rear of houses, can be found, than in the little -town of La Gloria. The furnishing of most of the houses consists of a -strange mingling of articles of comfort brought from home, combined with -other things that have been improvised and dug out of their tropical -surroundings. - -A mistake, made in the early days of La Gloria, and one common to every -American colony in the West Indies, has been the exclusive dedication of -energy, effort and capital to the growth of citrus fruit. The first -essential factor to the success of a colony in any climate is food, and -forage for animals. This, in nearly every American town in Cuba, has -been ignored, every effort being expended on the planting and promotion -of a citrus grove from which no yield could be expected inside of five -or six years, and during which time, many a well meaning farmer has -become discouraged or has exhausted his capital, leaving his grove in -the end to be choked up with weeds and ruined by the various enemies of -the citrus family. However, the people of La Gloria planted and stuck to -their orange trees and many of these, today, are yielding very -satisfactory returns, in spite of the serious lack of transportation. - -The best land belonging to the colony is located in the district known -as Canasi, some three miles south of the town, in the direction of the -Cubitas Mountains. There are 600 acres in this section devoted to -oranges and grape fruit, all of which have been well cared for and are -increasing in value each year. - -The citizens of the colony have joined forces and built a well equipped -packing plant, 100 feet in length by 30 feet in width, from which, last -year, were shipped 432,000 loose oranges, and 9,200 boxes of grape -fruit, the latter going to the United States by the way of Nuevitas. All -of this fruit at the present time is hauled by wagon, some eight or nine -miles to the wharf, on the bay, whence it is conveyed to the harbor of -Nuevitas for sale and shipment. - -La Gloria's hope of really satisfactory transportation facilities is -vested in the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, and her dream of suitable -connections with the outside world of trade will soon be realized. La -Gloria has many things to commend it, aside from soil and climate. One -of these is excellent drinking water, found at an average depth of -twenty feet. The soil on which the town is built is largely impregnated -with iron ore, which forms a splendid roadbed, and enables the -population to escape the seas of mud that are rather common throughout -the interior, excepting along macadamized roads. - -Most vegetables, with the exception of potatoes, may be grown throughout -the entire year in La Gloria, and a variety of potato adapted to that -peculiar soil will probably be found in the near future. A serious -mistake common not only in La Gloria but in nearly all other colonies in -Cuba has been neglect in sowing forage plants and thus providing for -live stock, so essential to the success of any farming district. - -That which is most to be admired in La Gloria, is the class of people -who form the backbone of the colony, and who certainly came from -excellent stock, proved by their successful efforts in overcoming -difficulties that would have discouraged a less persevering community. -The colony supports a weekly newspaper, and holds annual agricultural -fairs that are a credit to the district. - -The second and most serious experiment in colonization in Cuba was -staged in the Isle of Pines. In the year 1900 this intrepid storm -sentinel of the Caribbean offered several advantages for a successful -exploitation of the American public. In spite of the fact that this -Island had always formed an integral part of Cuba, it was advertised -throughout the United States as American property, and the flag raised -by the Government of Intervention was pointed to as a permanent asset of -that particular section. - -Again the promoters of this pretentious colonization scheme absolutely -ignored the basic principles of success in colony work. In other words -they did not take into account that not only was the Isle of Pines -devoid of a first-class harbor, but that the chances of securing direct -transportation between that section and the United States was decidedly -remote. - -Through the hypnotic influence of beautifully worded advertisements and -attractive pictures, large numbers of settlers from the United States -and Canada, especially from Minnesota and the Dakotas, were tempted to -locate in the Isle of Pines, or to purchase property, usually on the -installment plan, which they had never seen, and for which they paid -exorbitant prices. - -Tracts that cost from 90 to $1.20 per acre, were divided into 10, 20 -and 40 acre farms, and sold at prices ranging from $25 in the beginning -up to $75 and even $100 per acre in 1918. These prices have always been -out of proportion to the quality of the soil, and the location of the -land, since lands far more fertile, and within easy reach of steamers -leaving Havana daily, might have been found on the mainland of Cuba, -that would give the prospect of a fair chance of success in almost any -agricultural undertaking. - -Here again the prospective settler was advised to start citrus fruit -groves, to the exclusion of forage and other crops from which immediate -returns would have encouraged the farmer, and permitted him to live -economically while making up his mind as to the advisability of citrus -fruit culture, which is a specialized form of horticulture, requiring -much technical knowledge, and a great deal of experience to insure -satisfactory results. - -In the Isle of Pines, as in La Gloria, while many men have been -disappointed, and many families have left the country in despair, there -still remains a nucleus of hard working, intelligent and enterprising -men who, in spite of the disadvantages that will surround them, have -made for themselves comfortable homes, and who enjoy the quiet, dreamy -life that soon becomes essential to the man who remains long in the -tropics. - -The Isle of Pines ships a considerable amount of fruit and vegetables -each year, through Havana, to markets in the United States. How often -the balance may be found on the profit side of the ledger, however, is -open to question. The Isle of Pines undoubtedly offers an excellent -retreat for those who have become tired of the strenuous life of cities, -and who prefer to pass the remainder of their days in pleasant, -healthful surroundings. To do this, of course, requires an income that -will insure them against any little petty annoyance that might come from -a disturbing cyclone, or a low price for grape fruit in northern -markets. - -The enterprising promoters connected with the early colonization of the -Isle of Pines made a second experiment at Herradura, in the Province of -Pinar del Rio, 90 miles from the city of Havana by rail. Here they -purchased some 22,000 acres of land in 1902, paying, it is said, an -average price of a dollar an acre, and started the third American colony -in Cuba under the name of Herradura. - -In the colonization work, the old La Gloria and Isle of Pines method of -advertising was faithfully followed, and with results eminently -satisfactory to the promoters, most of whom have acquired comfortable -fortunes, at the expense of Americans and Canadians in the United States -who were anxious to find homes where they could enjoy life and perhaps -prosper in the Tropics. - -The larger part of the Herradura tract, especially that which lay along -the Western Railroad, was a light sandy soil, used by the natives in the -olden days for grazing cattle, and burned over every winter, thus -destroying nearly all of the humus in the land. This property was -divided into 40-acre tracts and sold at $20 per acre. As soon as the -settlers from the United States began to arrive in any numbers, the -price was advanced to $40. Citrus fruit was held out to prospective home -seekers as the surest means of securing an easy life and a fortune after -the first four or five years. - -Under favorable conditions, where all the essential elements to success -are combined, this is possible. But Herradura did not combine all of the -required features, hence hundreds of acres of abandoned groves can be -seen along the railroad track for miles, as one enters the Herradura -district. The cyclone of 1917 which added the last straw to the -proverbial camel's back, in the Isle of Pines, swept across the western -end of Pinar del Rio Province also, and only those groves that had been -provided with wind-breaks escaped from blight and ruin in the hurricane. - -Today there are about 25 families, with perhaps 100 inhabitants, -remaining in the colony of Herradura. Some of these settlers, men of -experience, who came from the citrus grove districts of Florida, and -others who took up general farming on the better lands, some two or -three miles north of the railroad, have succeeded, and have built for -themselves comfortable homes where rural life is enjoyed to the utmost. - -Some of them have their machines with which they can motor over a -splendid automobile drive to Havana, and spend a few days in the -capital, during the opera season. Nearly all of them have a few saddle -horses that furnish splendid exercise and amusement for the younger -members of the colony. One of the successful old timers of Herradura is -Mr. Earle, formerly chief of the Government Experimental Station at -Santiago de Las Vegas, a scientific farmer and a good business man. Mr. -Earle located on good land in a little valley well back from the road, -planted 40 acres in citrus fruit and has succeeded where others failed. - -On all lands where irrigation is possible, the growing of vegetables, -especially peppers and egg plants, has proven very satisfactory. The -average number of crates per acre is 350, and a dollar per crate net is -the estimated average profit. The irrigation comes either from wells or -little streams. - -The raising of pigs and poultry has helped greatly all those farmers of -Herradura who had the foresight not to neglect the live stock and -poultry end in their farming enterprises. - -The price of fairly good land in Herradura today is from $25 to $50 per -acre. The successful owner of a well cared for citrus grove in this -colony values it at $1,500 per acre. The freight on fruit and vegetables -from Herradura to the city of Havana over the Western Road, is ten cents -per box. - -The colony boasts of a very comfortable school house, which also serves -as a church and town hall. The old standbys, as they call themselves, -seldom complain of their lot, and could hardly be induced to change or -seek homes in other localities. - -There are some half dozen American and Canadian colonies in the Province -of Oriente, most of them scattered along the line of the Cuba Company's -railroad that has brought the interior of that province into contact -with the seaports of Antilla, on the north coast, and Santiago de Cuba -on the south. The colony of Bartle is the westernmost, located about -fifty miles from the borderline between that province and Oriente. - -The Bartle tract consisted originally of 5,000 acres, 3,000 of which lie -north of the railroad and the remainder extending toward the south. Most -of the land is covered with a heavy forest of hard woods and the work of -clearing is a serious proposition, although the soil, once freed from -stumps, is exceptionally rich and productive. Less than 2,000 acres have -been cleared up to the present, and some three or four hundred have been -planted in citrus fruit. Good water is found at a depth of 25 feet. - -There are approximately 200 permanent residents in this little -settlement, which has been laid out to advantage with its Plantation -House, hotel, church, stores, etc., and a very neat railway station. The -buildings are nearly all frame, painted white with green trimmings. In -Bartle, as in all colonial settlements in Cuba up to the present, the -planting of citrus fruit seems to have been the aim and ambition of the -settlers, who are about evenly divided between Canadians and Americans. - -Just south of Bartle are a number of small estates on land that belonged -to the late Sir Wm. Van Horne, father of the Cuba Company Railroad. - -Twenty miles further east a colony has been established at Victoria de -las Tunas, one of the storm centers of the various revolutionary -movements on the part of the Cubans against Spanish control. There are -some 800 or 900 acres of citrus fruit groves, in various stages of -production, within a radius of fifteen miles surrounding the town of -Victoria de las Tunas. In nearly all of the American and Canadian -colonies in the Province of Oriente, settlers have learned, at times -through bitter experience, that it was an economical mistake to devote -all of their energies to the production of citrus groves that could give -them no returns inside of five years, and that, with the exception of -the local markets of Camaguey, Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba, neither -oranges nor lemons would bring a sufficient price to pay for the cost of -packing, transportation and sale. Grape fruit usually yielded a profit, -if the market happened to be just right; or in other words, if competing -shipments from Florida and California did not lower the price below the -margin of profit. - -Twenty-two miles still further east we find the colony of Omaja, -boasting a population of nearly 300 people, most of whom are Americans, -although a number are from England and Canada. A small group of hard -working Finlanders, too, have joined their fortunes with the settlers of -Omaja. The surrounding country is quite attractive, and was at one time -a huge cattle ranch, covering some 50,000 acres of land, divided between -heavy forests and open savannas. - -Omaja has the usual complement of post-office, school-house, churches -and stores, with a sufficient variety of creeds to satisfy almost any -community. Some 700 or 800 acres of citrus fruit have been planted in -Omaja, about one-half of which is grape-fruit and Valencia oranges. -Omaja has an encouraging amount of social and musical activity which -lightens the more serious burdens of life in the colony. - -Some 30 miles north of Santiago de Cuba, and 50 miles south of Antilla, -the shipping point on Nipe Bay, are two small colonies only a few miles -apart known as Paso Estancia and Bayate. There are some 40 or 50 -permanent settlers in Paso Estancia, Americans, Canadians and English. -They have made clearings in the thick virgin forests and made for -themselves comfortable and rather artistic little homes; frame buildings -covered with zinc roofs, perched on hillsides, convenient to swift -running streams. - -The "Royal Palm" Hotel, a cement building, furnishes accommodations for -newcomers and guests. The view from the hotel, looking across a -delightful panorama of forest covered hills and valleys, gives a certain -lasting charm to the vicinity. - -The settlers of this section evidently were advised of the mistakes made -in other parts of the Island, and while the growing of citrus fruits -seems to have been the main object, food products, corn, vegetables, -coffee, cacao, cattle, hogs and forage were not neglected. - -A few miles south is the colony of Bayate, settled very largely by -Swedish Americans, whose programme has been quite a departure from that -of other colonists in Cuba. Their children are being taught Spanish in -the schools so that they may bring their parents more closely in contact -with their Spanish speaking neighbors. There are approximately 200 -settlers in this community, most of whom have devoted their energies to -growing sugar cane, for which the land in the neighborhood is -excellently adapted. The Auza mill, twelve miles further down the -railroad, buys all of the cane they can raise, giving them in exchange -5-1/2 lbs. of sugar for every 100 pounds of cane. There is a very decent -little hotel, built of mahogany and cedar, furnishing accommodations to -guests who may happen to stop. - -Bayate has its school house, for which the Cuban Government furnishes -two teachers, one of whom teaches in Spanish and the other in English. -Most of the settlers have their own cows, pigs and an abundance of -chickens. Some of them are planting coffee and cacao on the hill sides. -Two crops of corn may be easily grown in this section, and nothing -perhaps in Cuba, brings a better price, especially in the western end of -the Island. - -It would seem quite probable that general farming will eventually take -the place of the citrus fruit grove in Cuba, as a source of permanent -income and profit. The demand for sugar, brought about by the European -War, greatly increased the acreage of cane, and has undoubtedly saved -many American colonies, especially those of Oriente, from economical -disaster. - -It is to be hoped that the Cuban Government, in the future, may be -induced to provide some kind of supervision over projected colonies in -regard to the selection of localities, the character of soil, and the -election of agricultural undertakings which will insure success. It is -the desire of the Government that all homeseekers, if possible, may find -life in Cuba both pleasant and profitable, and only in some such way can -the mistakes of colonization in the past be avoided. - - - - -INDEX - - -AGRAMONTE, General Eugenio Sanchez, Secretary of Agriculture, 154. - -AGRICULTURE, 144; - typical rural home view, 145; - natural advantages of soil and climate, 145; - Department of Agriculture, 148; - Division of Agriculture, 148; of Commerce, 149; - of Veterinary Science and Animal Industry, 149; - of Forestry and Mines, 149; - of Trade Marks and Patents, 150; - of Meteorology, 150; - of Immigration, Colonization and Labor, 150; - of Game and Bird Protection, 151; - of Publicity and Exchanges, 152; - Experiment Station, 153; - breeding live stock, 155; - fruits and vegetables, 156; - combatting insects and diseases, 157; - "black fly," 157. - See GRAINS, GRASS, FRUIT, VEGETABLES, STOCK-RAISING. - -AMERICAN COLONISTS, 80, 103, 390; - deluded by speculators, 391; - ill-chosen sites, 391; - La Gloria, 392; - relations with the Cubans, 392; - increasing and assured prosperity for those who persevere, 393; - Isle of Pines, 394; - Herradura, Pinar del Rio, 396; - Bartle, 398; - Victoria de las Tunas, 399; - Omaja, 399; - Paso Estancia and Bayate, 400. - -American Legation at Havana, 298. - -ANIMALS, Indigenous, 257; - the hutia, 257; - sandhill crane, 258; - guinea fowl, 258; - turkey, 259; - quail, 259; - buzzard, 259; - sparrow hawk, 259; - mocking bird, 259; - pigeons, 259; - parrots, 260; - tody, 260; - orioles, 260; - lizard cuckoo, 261; - trogon, 261; - flamingo, 262; - Sevilla, 262; - ani, 262. - See POULTRY, STOCK RAISING, BEES. - -ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM:, 126; - early discovery of pitch, 126; - observations of Alexander von Humboldt, 127; - in Havana Province, 128; - in Matanzas, 128; - in Pinar del Rio, 129; - many wells sunk, 130, et seq. - -Atkins, Edward F., Sugar promoter, 177. - - -BANKING. See MONEY AND BANKING. - -BEES, for honey and wax, 280; - exceptional facilities for culture, 281; - trade in wax, 282. - -Birds. See ANIMALS. - -Botanic Gardens, 301. - - -CACAO, 233; - for food and drink, 234; - varieties, 236; - culture, 236. - -CAMAGUEY Province, 71; - history, 71; - topography, 74; - harbor of Nuevitas, 78; - resources and industries, 79; - American colonies, 80; - Camaguey City, 82; - chrome deposits, 116. - -Canning, opportunity for industry, in pineapples, 226. - -CARDENAS, City, 56; - City Hall and Plaza, scene, 56; - Industries, 57; - mines, 58. - -Cauto River, 85. - -Chocolate. See CACAO. - -Chrome. Sec MINES AND MINING. - -CIENAGA DE ZAPATA, 67; plans for draining, 165. - -Cienfuegos, 65. - -Clay and Cement, 27. - -CLIMATE, 19; - equable temperature, 19; - rainfall, 20; - at Havana, 31. - -Cocoa. See CACAO. - -COFFEE, 197; - origin of Cuban plantations, 197; - many abandoned groves, 198; - methods of culture, 199; - profits of crop, 199; marketing, 200; encouragement for the industry, 201. - -Commerce. See OCEAN TRANSPORTATION, and RAILROADS. - -Cork Palm, 38. - -Customs. See OCEAN TRANSPORTATION. - - -DRIVES: A Paradise of Palm-shaded automobile highways, 326; - roads radiating from Havana, 327; - to Matanzas, 328; - to Artemisa, 328; - to Candelaria, 329; - San Cristobal, 329; - Bahia Honda, 320; - San Diego de los Banos, 330; - Pinar del Rio, 331; - Valley of Vinales, 331; - Mariel, 333; - radiating from Matanzas, 335; - Cardenas, 336; - Cienfuegos, 336; - Trinidad, 336; - radiating from Santa Clara, 337; - Camaguey, 337; - Santiago, 337; - among Mountains of Oriente, 338. - - -FORESTRY, 135; - great number and variety of trees, 135; - alphabetical list of sixty leading kinds, with characteristics of each, 136, et seq.; - location of timber lands, 142; - extent, 143. - -FRUITS: Aguacate, 228; - varieties, 229; - for salads, 230. - Anon, or sugar apple, 226. - Bananas, the world's greatest fruit, 219; - methods of use, 219; - grown for commerce, 220; - soil and cultivation, 221; - varieties, 222; - possibilities of the crop, 223. - Chirimoya, 226. - Citrus fruits, 211; - orange groves, 212; - discretion and care needed in culture, 214; - varieties of oranges, 215; - grape fruit, 217; - limes, 217. - Figs, 228. Grapes, 232; - experiments with various kinds, 233; - wine-making, 233. - Guava, 228. - Mamey, 227. - Mamoncillo, 228. - Mango, foremost fruit of Cuba, 203; - the Manga, 204; - varieties and characteristics, 204, et seq.; - for both fruit and shade, 209; - fruit vender in Havana, scene, 209. - Pineapples, 224; - soil and culture, 224; - profits of crop, 225; - varieties, 225; - for canning, 226. - Sapodilla, see Zapote. - Tamarind, 227. - Zapote, 226. - - -GRAIN: Indian corn, 248; - Kaffir corn, 249; - millet, 249; - wheat, 249; - rice, 250; - opportunities for rice culture, 251. - -GRASSES AND FORAGE PLANTS: Parana grass, 253; - Bermuda grass, 253; - alfalfa, 253; cow peas, 254; - beans, 255; - peanuts, 255. - -Guantanamo, 89. - - -HARBORS: Havana, 28, 342; - Mariel, 41, 341; - Cabanas, 42, 341; - Bahia Honda, 42, 341; - Cienfuegos, 65, 349; - Nuevitas, 78, 345; - Nipe, 87, 346; - Guantanamo, 89, 347; - Santiago, 87, 348; - Matanzas, 343; - Cardenas, 344; - Sagua, 344; - Caibarien, 344; - Manati, 345; - Puerto Padre, 346; - Banes, 346; - Cabonico and Levisa, 347; - Sagua de Tanamo, 347; - Baracoa, 347; - Manzanillo, 349; - Batabano, 350. - Minor - harbors, 350, et seq. - -Hawley, Robert B., Sugar promoter, 175. - -HAVANA, City: history, 303; - famous streets and buildings, 304 et seq.; - modern development of city and suburbs, 307; - El Vedado, 308; - places of Interest, 309; - National Theatre, 310; - the Prado, 310; - parks, 211; - Colon Cemetery, 311; - Municipal Band and other musical organizations, 312; - Conservatory of Music, 312; - drives, 313; - bathing beaches, 313, 314; - Havana Yacht Club, 314; - fishing, 314; - Jai Alai, 315; - baseball, 316; - horse racing, 317; - golf, 317; - the Templete, 317; - the Maestranza, 318; - Department of Sanitation, 318; - La Hacienda, 319; - old Governor-General's palace, 319; - Senate Chamber, 320; - "General Wood Laboratory," 321; - School of Industrial Arts and Sciences, 322; - Academy of Sciences and Fine Arts, 322; - President's Palace, 322; - new Capitol, 324; - National Hospital 325. - See PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. - -HAVANA, Province: topography, 21; - Valley of the Guines, 23; - tobacco region, 24; - forests, 25; - agriculture and horticulture, 26; - industries, 27; - harbor of Havana, 28; - water supply, 30; - climate, 31. - -HENEQUEN: world-wide importance, 53; - brought from Yucatan, 190; - first plantation, 191; - International Harvester Company's plantation, 191; - possibilities of extension of the industry, 192; - advantages of soil and climate, 193; - estimates of cost and profit, 195. - -Himely, H. A., estimates Sugar crop, 166. - -Holguin, 93. - - -IRON. See MINES AND MINING. - - -MAGOTES, 14. - -Manganese. See MINES AND MINING. - -Manzanillo, 92. - -MATANZAS Province: Topography, 49; - drainage system, 49; - Yumuri River and Valley, 51; - resources, 52; - henequen and sisal, 53; - Matanzas City, 54; - Caves of Bellamar, 55; - Cardenas, 56; - mines, 58; - sugar, 58; - chrome, 116. - -Menocal, Mario G., Sugar promoter, 175. - -MINES AND MINING: Pinar del Rio, 47; - Matanzas, 58; - Oriente, 96; - early search for gold, 104. - Copper: El Cobre mines, 105; - near Havana, 106; - Bayamo, 107; - Matanzas, 108; - Santa Clara, 108; - Camaguey, 108; - Pinar del Rio, 109; - American interests in, 109; - Matahambre mines, 110. - Iron, in Oriente, 111; - Camaguey, 112; - Pinar del Rio, 112; - nickeliferous ores, 112; - statistics of shipments of iron and copper ores, 112. - Manganese, in Oriente, Pinar del Rio and Santa Clara, 115, 120, 121, 122; - analysis of ore, 123; output, 124. - Chrome, in Havana, Matanzas, Camaguey and Oriente, 115; - United States Geological Survey's prospects, 114, 117; - many rich deposits, 117 et seq. - -MONEY AND BANKING: Early monetary systems, 361; - double standard adopted, 363; - stabilization under American occupation, 363; - present standard and unit, 364; - statistics, 364; - list of principal banks of Cuba, 366. - - -OCEAN TRANSPORTATION: United Fruit Company, origin of, 376; - Lorenzo D. Baker and Andrew D. Preston, 377; - Minor C. Keith's Costa Rica railroad, 378; - development of world's greatest agricultural transportation company, 379; - magnitude of its fleet, 379. - New York and Cuba Mail Company, origin and development of, 380; - Ward, Alexandria and other lines merged, 381; - extent of service, 381 et seq.; - its fleet, 382. - Munson Steamship Line, 383; - extent of its service, 383. - Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company, 383; - its great ocean and railroad ferry from Havana to Key West, 384. - Pinillos Izquiendo Line, between Cuba and Spain, 384; - its large fleet, 385. - Southern Pacific, formerly Morgan, Line, 385. - French Line, 385; - its fleet, 386. - Japanese Line, Osaka Shosen Kaisha, 386. - Customs regulations, 387; - invoices, 387; - consular fees, 389; - Cuban consulates in United States and its territories, 389. - -ORGAN Mountains, 13. - -ORIENTE Province: Topography, 83; - picture of mountain road, 84; - rivers, 85; - sugar, 86; - Guantanamo, 89; - Santiago, 89; - resources and industries, 95; - mines, 96; - iron, 110; - chrome and manganese, 117. - - -PACKING HOUSES, opportunity for, 273. - -"Paradise of Palm Drives," 326. - -PEOPLE OF CUBA: Their hospitality and other traits, 1; - domestic habits, 2; - racial descent, 3; - Gallegos and Catalans, 5; - English, 5; - Irish, 6; - Italians, 6; - Germans, 7; - Americans, 7. - -Petroleum. See ASPHALT. - -PINAR DEL RIO Province: Topography, 34; - Valley of Vinales, 36; - harbors, 41; - Pinar del Rio City, 45; - Vuelta Abajo tobacco region, 45; - mines, 47. - -PLACES OF HISTORIC INTEREST, 284-302: - Atares Fort, 300; - Bayamo, 92; - Belen Convent and College, 298; - Bellamar Caves, 55; - Cabanas, la, 286; - history, 286; - prison and place of execution, 287; - "Road without Hope," 287; - present condition, 289. - Cathedral, Havana, 294; - Castillo del Principe, 300; - Chorrera, la, fort, 299; - City Wall of Havana, 291; - Cojimar fort, 299; - Echarte mansion, 298; - Fuerza, la, 292; - Institute of Havana, 294; - Jesus del Monte church, 297; - Merced, la, convent, 296; - Morro Castle, Havana, 284; - Punta, la, 290; - Quinto de Molinos, 301; - San Augustin convent 296; - San Francisco church and convent, 295; - Santa Catalina convent, 296; - Santa Clara convent, 297; - Santa Teresa church, 297; - Santo Angel church, 297; - Santo Domingo church and convent, 293; - Torreon de la Playa, 299; - Torreon de la San Lazaro, 300; - "Twelve Apostles," at El Morro, 286. - -POULTRY: Varieties, 278; - Turkeys, 279; - Guinea hens, 279. - -PUBLIC INSTRUCTION: Backward state under Spanish rule, 367; - progress under American occupation, 368; - Alexis E. Frye, Superintendent, 368; - Lincoln de Zayas, 368; - great aid from Harvard University, 369; - schools placed under National government, 370; - Miss Abbie Phillips, General Superintendent of English, 370; - Dr. Dominguez Roldan, Secretary of Public Instruction, 371; - increase in schools and school attendance during President Menocal's administration, 371; - "School of the Home," 372; - Institute of Havana, 372; - National University, 373; - National School of Languages, 373; - National Public Library, 374. - -Puerto Principe. See CAMAGUEY. - - -RAILROADS: First railroad on Spanish soil in Cuba, 353; - United Railways of Havana, 353; - Matanzas Railway, 354; - extension of system, 354; - electric lines, 354. - Sir William Van Horne's great work, 355; - Cuba Company's line and branches, 356 et seq.; - work of R. G. Ward in building and equipping Cuba Company's lines, 358. - Cuba Central road and branches, 359. - North Shore road, 360. - -Rionda, Don Manuel, Sugar promoter, 173. - - -SANTA CLARA Province: - History, 60; - mountains, 62; - rivers, 64; - Cienfuegos, 65; - Sancti Spiritus, 66; - Cienaga de Zapata,67; - resources and industries, 68; - coffee, 69. - -Santiago, 89. - -Schools. See PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. - -Shipping. See OCEAN TRANSPORTATION. - -Sisal. See HENEQUEN. - -Sponges, extent of industry, 283. - -SPORTS: Automobiling, 326 et seq.; - bathing beaches, 313; - yachting, 314; fishing, 314; - Jai Alai, 315; - baseball, 316; - horse racing, 317; - golf, 317. - -STOCK RAISING: Horses introduced into Cuba, 263; - recent importations from the United States, 263; - breeds and numbers, 264; - mules, 265. - Cattle, 265; - importations, 266; - choice breeding, 267; - crossing with the zebu, 267; - advantages of Cuba for stock raising, 268. - Swine, 269; - advantages for hog raising, 270; - palmiche and yuca for hog food, 271; - varieties of swine, 272; - opportunity for packing plants in hog products, 273. - Sheep, for food, 273. - Goats, for meat, skins and hair, 274; - Angoras, 275; - profits, 276. - -SUGAR: In Matanzas, 58; - Santa Clara, 68; - Camaguey, 79; - Oriente, 86; - El Chaparra and Las Delicias, 86; - Bay of Nipe, 87; - magnitude of crop, 160; - favorable natural conditions, 161; - reports and estimates of available lands, 161 et seq.; - possible output, 164; - plans for draining swamp lands, 164; - Cienaga de Zapata, 165; - Mr. R. G. Ward's projects, 166; - Mr. H. A. Himely's estimates of crop, 166; - methods of planting and cultivation, 167; - the labor problem, 168; - "Administration" and "Colono" systems, 170; - Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, 173; - Cuban-American Sugar Company, 175; - Rionda Sugar Properties, 176; - United Fruit Company's Sugar Properties, 177; - Atkins Sugar Properties, 177; - Pot Rodriguez Sugar Properties, 178; - West Indies Sugar Finance Corporation, 178; - Gomez-Mena Properties, 179; - Cuba Company Properties, 180; - Mendoza-Cunaga Properties, 180; - Cuba's relation to the world's supply of sugar, 181. - - -TOBACCO: Tumbadero, in Havana, 24; - Vuelta Abajo, Pinar del Rio, 45; - early history, 183; - profits of crop, 184; - method of growing, 184; - various regions of growth, 186; - insect pests, 186; - growing under cheesecloth, 187; - magnitude of industry, 188. - -TOPOGRAPHY, of Cuba: Mountain systems, 10; - Sierra Maestra, 11; - El Yunque, 11; - Sierras Cristal and Nipe, 12; - Najassa Hills, 12; - Sierra Cubitas, 13; - Sierra del Escambray, 13; - Sierras Morena, and de Bamburano, 13; - Sierra de los Organos, 13; - Vinales Valley, 14; - Magotes, 14; - plains, 16. - - -VANILLA, 237; - growth and preparation for market, 238. - -VEGETABLES: Beans, Lima and string, 244; - Egg plant, 243; - Okra, 244; - Peppers, 242; - Potatoes, 242; - Pumpkins, 245; - Squashes, 245; - Tomatoes, 243. - - -WARD, R. G., plans for draining Cienaga de Zapata, 166; - railroad construction and equipment, 358. - - -YUMURI River and Valley, 51. - -[Illustration: Map of Cuba] - - * * * * * - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -so that it can product=> so that it can produce {pg vii} - -The shores of Mariel are beautfiul=> The shores of Mariel are beautiful -{pg 41} - -at the southern end of the Bat=> at the southern end of the Bay {pg 41} - -aferwards was led=> afterwards was led {pg 61} - -on the party of=> on the part of {pg 80} - -Mexican revoultions=> Mexican revolutions {pg 191} - -they should fear=> they should bear {pg 207} - -any woman whose chose to devote=> any woman who chose to devote {pg 297} - -the installment plant=> the installment plan {pg 395} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The History of Cuba, vol. 5, by -Willis Fletcher Johnson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - -***** This file should be named 41267-8.txt or 41267-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/6/41267/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The History of Cuba, vol. 5 - -Author: Willis Fletcher Johnson - -Release Date: November 2, 2012 [EBook #41267] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="334" height="550" alt="image of the book's cover" /> -</p> - -<table summary="note" border="4" cellpadding="10" style="background-color: #ffffff; -margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;max-width:60%;"> - <tr> - <td valign="top">The etext replicates the original book. -Some obvious typographical errors -have been corrected; a list follows this etext. -The author’s incorrect and varied spellings of Spanish -has not been corrected, modernized or normalized.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="front" id="front"></a></p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">FRANCISCO DE FRIAS</p> - -<p>One of the foremost agricultural and economic scientists of his time, -Francisco de Frias y Jacott, Count of Pozos Dulces, was born in Havana -on September 24, 1809, and died in Paris, France, on October 24, 1877. -He studied in the United States and Europe, specializing in physics and -chemistry, and then sought to devote his genius to the economic welfare -of Cuba. He wrote notable works on Cattle Breeding, on Chemical -Research, and on Labor and Population. His patriotic spirit provoked -Captain-General Canedo to banish him for a time, but on his return as -editor of El Siglo he conducted so powerful a campaign for social, -economic, political and administrative reforms that the Spanish -government was constrained to heed him and to plan new legislation for -Cuba. For this purpose it formed a Junta of Information, of which he was -a member representing Santa Clara. Upon the failure of that body he -wrote a memorable protest against the policy which had compelled that -result, and a year later removed to Paris.</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip001_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip001_sml.jpg" width="365" height="540" alt="FRANCISCO DE FRIAS -One of the foremost agricultural and economic scientists of his time, -Francisco de Frias y Jacott, Count of Pozos Dulces, was born in Havana -on September 24, 1809, and died in Paris, France, on October 24, 1877. -He studied in the United States and Europe, specializing in physics and -chemistry, and then sought to devote his genius to the economic welfare -of Cuba. He wrote notable works on Cattle Breeding, on Chemical -Research, and on Labor and Population. His patriotic spirit provoked -Captain-General Canedo to banish him for a time, but on his return as -editor of El Siglo he conducted so powerful a campaign for social, -economic, political and administrative reforms that the Spanish -government was constrained to heed him and to plan new legislation for -Cuba. For this purpose it formed a Junta of Information, of which he was -a member representing Santa Clara. Upon the failure of that body he -wrote a memorable protest against the policy which had compelled that -result, and a year later removed to Paris." /></a> -</p> - -<h1> -THE<br /> -HISTORY OF CUBA</h1> - -<p class="cb">BY<br /> -WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON<br /> -A.M., L.H.D. -<br /> -<small>Author of “A Century of Expansion,” “Four Centuries of<br /> -the Panama Canal,” “America’s Foreign Relations”<br /> -Honorary Professor of the History of American Foreign<br /> -Relations in New York University</small><br /> -<br /> -<i>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS</i><br /> -<br /> -V<small>OLUME</small> F<small>IVE</small><br /> -<br /><br /> -<a href="images/colophon_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/colophon_sml.jpg" width="180" height="102" alt="colophon" /></a> -<br /> -<br /> -<br /><br /> -NEW YORK<br /> -<span class="red">B. F. BUCK & COMPANY, <span class="smcap">Inc.</span></span><br /> -<span class="smcap">156 Fifth Avenue</span><br /> -1920</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c"> -<small>Copyright, 1920,<br /> -<span class="smcap">By</span> CENTURY HISTORY CO.<br /> -——<br /> -<i>All rights reserved</i></small><br /> -</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c">ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL<br /> -LONDON, ENGLAND. -<br /> -PRINTED IN U. S. A.<br /> -</p> - -<p> </p> - -<div class="eng"> -<p class="c">REPUBLICA DE CUBA<br /> -——<br /> -SECRETARIA DE AGRICULTURA, COMERCIO Y TRABAJO<br /> -————</p> -</div> - -<div class="buca"> -<p class="r">Habana, Cuba,<br /> -July 11, 1919.</p> - -<p class="nind">TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:</p> - -<p>The information in this volume pertaining to Cuba and her natural -resources, climate, soil, mines, forests, fisheries, agricultural -products, lands, rivers, harbors, mountains, mineral zones, quarries, -foreign and domestic commerce, business opportunities, etc., has been -compiled under the auspices of the Department of Agriculture, Commerce -and Labor, and has been verified by the Bureau of Information.</p> - -<p>It is intended to acquaint the world with the truth and actual facts in -regard to Cuba, and for the guidance of those who may be interested.</p> - -<p class="r">Respectfully,</p> - -<p class="figright" style="clear:both;"> -<a href="images/signature_lg.png"> -<img src="images/signature.png" width="350" height="116" alt="signature" /></a> -</p> - -<p class="r" style="clear:both;">SECRETARY OF AGRICULTURE<br /> -COMMERCE & LABOR. </p> -</div> -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> - -<p>N<small>ATURE</small> designed Cuba for greatness. That salient fact is written large -and clear upon every page of the island’s history. He must lack vision -who can not discern it even in the annals of political, military and -social development of the Cuban nation. Although one of the earliest -lands in the Western Hemisphere to be discovered and colonized, it was -actually the last of all to be erected into political independence and -thus to enter into an opportunity for improving fully the incomparable -opulence of its natural endowment. No land ever shows of what it is -capable until it is permitted to do so for its own sake and in its own -name.</p> - -<p>During the long and tedious centuries of Spanish domination, therefore, -the resources of Cuba remained largely latent. That is to be said in -full view of the notorious fact that the island was openly declared to -be “the milch cow of Spain.” In those two facts appears perhaps the most -impressive of all possible testimonies to the surpassing richness of the -island. If while it was a mere colony, only partially developed and -indeed with its resources only in part explored and imperfectly -understood, and with the supreme incentive to enterprise denied it—if -in these unfavorable circumstances, we say, it could be a source of so -great revenue to Spain and in spite of thus being plundered and drained -could still accumulate so considerable a competence for its own people, -what must its material opulence prove to be under its own free rule, -with every advantage and every encouragement for its full development -according to the knowledge of Twentieth Century science?</p> - -<p>We need not be fanciful or visionary if we believe that some important -purpose was subserved in such withholding of Cuba from complete -development until so late a date. Her neighbors went on ahead, -developing their resources, and passing through all the political and -social vicissitudes of which colonial and national experience is -capable, inevitably with a great proportion of sheer loss through -ill-directed experimentation. Cuba on the contrary remained held in -abeyance until in the fulness of time she could profit from the -experience and example of others and thus gain her development at a -minimum of effort and expense and with a maximum of net profit.</p> - -<p>The beneficent design of nature, to which we have alluded, is to be -seen, moreover, in the inherent conditions of insular existence. No -other great island of the world is so fortunate in its geographical -placing, either strategically or climatically, nor is any other -comparable with it in topography and material arrangement and -composition. It lies midway between the two great continents of the -Western Hemisphere, within easy reach of both across landlocked seas, -where it receives the commerce of both and serves as a mart of exchange -between them. Similarly it lies between the Temperate Zone and the -Torrid Zone, so as to receive at its very doors the products of each and -of both, the products, that is to say, of all the world. Nor is it less -significant that it lies directly upon the line of commerce and travel -not only between North and South but equally between East and West, on -the line of passage between the Atlantic and the Pacific and between the -lands which border the one and those which occupy the shores of the -other. Such strategic position—the strategy of commerce—is unique and -incommensurable in value.</p> - -<p>Equally beneficent is the climatic situation of Cuba. Mathematically -lying just within the tropical zone, it in fact enjoys a temperance of -climate surpassing that of the temperate zone itself. It has all the -geniality of the regions which lie to the south of it, so that it can -produce all the fruits of the sultry tropics in profusion throughout a -year-round season of growth; yet it escapes the oppressive and -enervating heat which makes life in those lands burdensome to the -visitor and indolent to the native. It has the comfort and the tonic -properties of northern climes, yet without the trying and sometimes -disastrous fluctuations and extremes which too often there prevail. As a -result, Cuba can produce, if not always in fullest perfection yet with a -gratifying degree of success, practically all the vegetable life of the -world, from that which thrives close to the Arctic Circle to that which -luxuriates upon the Equator.</p> - -<p>In coastal contour, and thus in profusion of fine harbors, Cuba enjoys -preeminence among the countries of the world. In varied contour of -mountain, valley and plain, in endowment with springs and rivers, she is -conspicuously fortunate. The often quoted tribute which her first -discoverer paid spontaneously to her magic beauty has been repeated and -confirmed uncounted times, with a deeper significance as it has been -found that the beauty of this island is not merely superficial but -intrinsic, and that Cuba is as hospitable to the interests and welfare -of the visitor and resident as she is fair to the passing eye.</p> - -<p>It is a grateful task to dwell in these pages upon the varied and -opulent resources of the island, in all the natural conditions of the -mineral, the vegetable and the animal kingdoms. We shall see that the -hopes and dreams of the early conquerors, of rich mines of gold, have -been far more than realized in other ways which they knew not of. The -mines of what they regarded as base metals, and of metals unknown to -them, are richer far than they ever hoped deposits of the “precious” -metal to be, while the products of forests and plantations are -immeasurably richer still. Today Cuba stands before the world a -Treasure Island of incomparable worth even in her present estate, and of -an assured potentiality of future opulence which dazzles the -imagination.</p> - -<p>We shall see, too, most grateful and inspiring of all, how at last the -people of Cuba have come into their own and are improving the vast -endowment with which nature has so bounteously provided them. It has -been only since they gained their independence that they could or would -do this; the result being that a score of years have seen more progress -than the twenty score preceding. Indeed we may say that the great bulk -of this progress has been achieved in the last six or seven years, the -earlier years of independence being unfortunately marred with untoward -circumstances of dissension and revolt which held in check the progress -which the island should have made. But with the final establishment of a -government capable of fulfilling all its appropriate functions, the -advance of Cuba has been and is to-day swift and unerring.</p> - -<p>The taking advantage of natural conditions and resources through -scientific applications, the organization and administration of such -governmental institutions as best conduce to the security, the -prosperity and the happiness of a self-governing people, are agreeable -themes to contemplate and are profitable to study. We shall see how -agriculture, mining, manufactures and commerce have been promoted in -both extent and character. We shall see how all parts of the island -realm have been made accessible, for business or for pleasure, with -railroads and a marvellous system of highways for motor vehicles. We -shall learn of the sanitation of what was once a pestilence infested -land until it has become one of the three or four most healthful in the -world.</p> - -<p>We shall see, too, the practical creation and universal development of a -scheme of free popular education which to-day gives to what was within -the memory of living men one of the most illiterate of countries such -school facilities as scarcely any other can surpass. If we were writing -in this volume of some long-established Commonwealth, with many -generations, perhaps centuries, of progress and culture behind it, we -should not be able to restrain our admiration of much that has been -accomplished. When we consider that we are writing of a land that -suffered nearly four centuries of repression and oppression, followed by -a dozen years of devastating strife, and less than twenty years ago -began to live the free life of a sovereign people, we are entranced with -amazement at the memory of what Cuba has been, with appreciation of what -she is, and with the assured promise of what she is to be.</p> - -<p>It was a fascinating task to trace the story of her existence in its -many phases, largely of vicissitude, from the days of Diego Velasquez to -those of Mario Menocal. But that after all was a record of what has -been, of what has largely passed away. More welcome is it to contemplate -what Cuba actually is, in present realization and achievement, and to -scan with sane and discriminating vision the prospect of what she may be -and what, we may well believe with confidence, she will be. It is to -reveal the actual Cuba of to-day, and to suggest the surely promised -Cuba of to-morrow, that these pages are written. So far as they may seem -technical and statistical, their very dryness contains a potency of -suggestion surpassing the dreams of romance. So far as they may seem -touched with imagination, speculation, enthusiasm, they are still based -upon the practical and indubitable foundation of ascertained facts. -Their aim is to present to the world an accurate, comprehensive and -sympathetic living picture of the Twentieth Century Republic of Cuba, -and as such they are submitted to the reader with a cheerful confidence, -if not always in the adequacy of its treatment, at least in the -unfailing interest and merit of the theme.</p> - -<p>January, 1920.</p> - -<p class="r">W<small>ILLIS</small> F<small>LETCHER</small> J<small>OHNSON</small>.</p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;max-width:38em;"> - -<tr><td colspan="3" align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapter I</a>. The People of Cuba</span> </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The People of Cuba—Hospitality Their Characteristic—Love of -Children—Founders of the Cuban Nation from the Southern -Provinces of Spain—An Admixture of French Blood—Immigration -from Northern Spain—English, Irish, Italian and German -Immigrants—Colonists from the United States.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">Chapter II</a>. The Topography of Cuba</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_010">10</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Topography of Cuba—Five Distinct Zones—The Mountain -Ranges—Plateaus and Plains—The Highest Peak in Cuba—The -Organ Mountains—Beautiful Valleys and Fertile Plains—Action -of the Water Courses—Character of the Soil.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Chapter III</a>. The Climate of Cuba</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_019">19</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Climate of Cuba—Freedom from Extremes of Temperature—Influence -of the Trade Winds—No Ice and Little Frost—The -Rainy Season and the Dry Season—Gloomy Days Practically -Unknown.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Chapter IV</a>. Province of Havana</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_021">21</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Province of Havana—The Pivotal Province of the Island—Visits -by Columbus and Velasquez—Topography of the Province—Soil -and Products—Agricultural Wealth—The Fruit Industry—Manufacturing—The -Harbor of Havana—Transportation Facilities—The -Water Supply—The Climate—The Seat of Government -and Social Centre of the Island.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">Chapter V</a>. Province of Pinar del Rio</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_034">34</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Province of Pinar del Rio—A Picturesque Region—Interesting -Topography—The Organ Mountains—The Vinales Valley—A -Rare Palm Tree—Hard Wood Timber—Agriculture—Harbors -and Fishing Interests—Tobacco Lands of the Vuelta -Abajo—Coffee Plantations—Mineral Resources.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">Chapter VI</a>. Province of Matanzas</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_049">49</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Province of Matanzas—Comparatively Unimportant in History—A -Great Drainage and Traffic Canal—Rivers and Mountains—The -Coast and Islands—The Henequen Industry—The -City of Matanzas—The Caves of Bellamar—Sugar Production—Mineral -Resources.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">Chapter VII</a>. Province of Santa Clara</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_060">60</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Province of Santa Clara—A Land of Great Variety of -Scenes—Ancient Gold-Seeking—The Mountain Ranges—Rich -Lands of the Parks and Valleys—Rivers and Lakes—Harbors—Cities -of the Province—The “Swamp of the Shoe”—Forests, -Sugar Plantations, Tobacco, and Coffee—Opportunities for Stock -Raising.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Chapter VIII</a>. Province of Camaguey</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Province of Camaguey—Where Columbus First Landed—In -the Days of Velasquez—Events of the Ten Years’ War—Topography -of the Province—Mountain Ranges—Rivers and -Coastal Lagoons—Harbors—Lack of Railroads—The Sugar Industry—Minerals—American -Colonies—Some Noted Men.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">Chapter IX</a>. Province of Oriente</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_083">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Province of Oriente—Area and Topography—Mountains -and Rivers—Fine Harbors—Great Sugar Mills—Scene of the -First Spanish Settlement in Cuba—The Bay of Guantanamo—Santiago -de Cuba—Copper Mines—Manzanillo—The Cauto Valley—Sugar -Plantations and Stock Ranches—Timber and Minerals—American -Colonies.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">Chapter X</a>. The Isle of Pines</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Isle of Pines—An Integral Part of Cuba—American Settlements -and Claims—Character of the Island—Infertile and -Storm Swept—Vast Deposits of Muck—Marble Quarries—Efforts -to Promote Agricultural Interests.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">Chapter XI</a>. Mines and Mining</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Mines and Mining—The Early Quest of Gold—First Working -of Copper Mines—The Wealth of El Cobre—Copper in All Parts -of Cuba—Operations in Pinar del Rio—Vast Iron Deposits in -Oriente—Nickel and Manganese—Exports of Ore—American Investigation -of Chrome Deposits—Many Beds of Great Richness—Manganese -and Chrome for All the World.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">Chapter XII</a>. Asphalt and Petroleum</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_126">126</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Asphalt and Petroleum—Ocampo’s Early Discovery at Puerto -Carenas—Humboldt’s Reports of Petroleum Wells—Prospecting -for Oil in Many Places—Some Promising Wells—Asphalt Deposits -of Great Value—Prospects for Important Petroleum Developments.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">Chapter XIII</a>. Forestry</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_135">135</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Forestry—Vast Resources of Fine Woods Recklessly Squandered -in Early Times—Houses Built of Mahogany—Hundreds of Varieties -of Valuable Timber Trees—A Catalogue of Sixty of the -Most Useful—Need of Transportation for the Lumber Trade—Forests -Owned by the State.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">Chapter XIV</a>. Agriculture</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Agriculture—The Chief Interest of Cuba—Fertility of Soil, -Geniality of Climate, and Variety of Products—The Rainfall—Many -Farmers Specialists—The Government’s Experimental Station—Opportunities -for Stock-Raising—Work of the Department -of Agriculture—Its Various Bureaus—Value of Experimental -Work Begun by General Wood and Extended by President -Menocal—Improving Live Stock—Fruit Growing—Grains and -Grasses—Combating Insect Pests—Bureau of Plant Sanitation.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">Chapter XV</a>. Sugar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_160">160</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>“King Cane”—Cuba’s Crop and the World’s Production—Natural -Conditions Favorable to Sugar Culture—Extent of Lands -Still Available—The “Savana” and “Cienaga” Lands—Assured -Projects for Draining Great Swamps—Potential Increase of -Sugar Production in Cuba—Methods of Planting, Culture and -Harvesting—The Labor Problem—Improved Machinery—Something -About the Principal Sugar Producing Concerns in Cuba -and the Men Who Have Created Them and Are Directing Them—The -Largest Sugar Company in the World—Cuba’s Assured -Rank as the World’s Chief Sugar Plantation.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">Chapter XVI</a>. Tobacco</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_183">183</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Tobacco Industry—First European Acquaintance with the -Plant—The Famous Fields of the Vuelta Abajo—Immense Productivity—Methods -of Culture and Harvesting—Various Regions -of Tobacco Culture—Insect Pests—Wholesale Use of Cheesecloth -Canopies—Monetary Importance of the Industry.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">Chapter XVII</a>. Henequen</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Henequen Industry—The Source of Binding Twine for the -Wheat Fields—Cuban Plantations Now Surpassing Those of -Yucatan—Methods of Growth and Manufacture—Magnitude of -the Industry and Possibilities of Further Extension.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">Chapter XVIII</a>. Coffee</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_197">197</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Coffee Industry—Early Plantations Which Were Neglected -and Abandoned—An Attractive Industry—Methods of Culture—Harvesting -and Marketing the Crop—Government Encouragement -Being Given for Extension of the Industry. - -<a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">Chapter XIX</a>. The Mango</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Mango—The King of Oriental Fruits—Two Distinct Types -in Cuba—All Varieties Prolific—The Trees and the Fruits—Some -of the Favorite Varieties—Marketing and Use.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">Chapter XX</a>. Citrus Fruits</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_211">211</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Citrus Fruits—American Introduction of the Commercial Industry—Varieties -of Oranges—Comparison with Florida and California -Fruit—Grape Fruit in the Isle of Pines—Limes and Wild -Oranges.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">Chapter XXI</a>. Bananas, Pineapples and Other Fruits</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_219">219</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Antiquity and Universality of the Banana—Its Many Uses—Commercial -Cultivation in Cuba—Methods of Culture—Varieties—Pineapple -Culture in Cuba—One of the Staple Crops—Difficulty -of Marketing—The Canning Industry—The Fruit of -the Anon—The Zapote or Sapodilla—The Tamarind—The -Mamey—The Guava—The Mamoncillo—Figs of All Varieties—The -Aguacate.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">Chapter XXII</a>. Grapes, Cacao, and Vanilla</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_232">232</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Grape Culture Discouraged by Spain—Recent Development of -the Industry—Much Wine Drinking but Little Drunkenness—Food -and Drink in the Cacao—The Chocolate Industry—Culture -and Manufacture of Cacao—The Vanilla Bean—Methods of -Gathering and Preparing the Crop.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">Chapter XXIII</a>. Vegetable Growing</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_240">240</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Vegetable Growing in Cuba—Regions Most Suitable for the -Industry—Seed Brought from the United States—Winter Crops -of Potatoes—Green Peppers a Profitable Crop—Cultivation of -Tomatoes and Egg Plants—Okra—Lima Beans and String -Beans—Squashes and Pumpkins—Desirability of the Canning -Industry—Utility of Irrigation—Prospects of Profit in Truck -Farming.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">Chapter XXIV</a>. Standard Grains and Forage</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Indian Corn Indigenous—Improvements in Culture Desirable—Millet -or Kaffir Corn—Neglect of Wheat Growing—Culture of -Upland Rice—Possibilities of Swamp Rice Culture—Profusion -of Meadow and Pasture Grasses—Experiments with Alfalfa—Cultivation -of Cow Peas and Beans—Peanut Plantations.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">Chapter XXV</a>. Animals</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_257">257</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Paucity of Native Fauna—Deer, Caprimys and Ant Eaters—The -Sand Hill Crane—Guinea Fowls, Turkeys and Quails—Buzzards, -Sparrow Hawks, Mocking Birds and Wild Pigeons—Varieties -of Parrots—The Oriole—The Tody—The Lizard -Cuckoo—The Trogon—Water Birds.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">Chapter XXVI</a>. Stock Raising</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_263">263</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Introduction of Horses and Cattle by the Spaniards—Improvement -in the Quality of Stock—A Favorable Land for Cattle -Ranges—Importation of Blooded Stock from the United States -and Europe—Introduction of the Zebu—Great Profits in Hog -Raising—Forage, Nuts and Root Crops for Stock Food—Sheep -and Goat Raising for Wool, Meat and Hides—Value of the Angora -Goat.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">Chapter XXVII</a>. Poultry: Bees: Sponges</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_278">278</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Recent Scientific Development of the Poultry Industry—President -Menocal’s Importations of Choice Stock—Opportunities for -Agriculture—Wild and Domesticated Bees—Varieties of Honey -Yielding Flowers—Large Exportations of Wax and Honey—Valuable -Sponge Fisheries on the Cuban Coast.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">Chapter XXVIII</a>. Places of Historical Interest</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_284">284</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Historic Interest of Havana Harbor—The Romance and Tragedy -of El Morro—“The Twelve Apostles”—The Vast Fortress -of La Cabaña—The “Road Without Hope”—A Scene of -Slaughter—Cells of the Fortress Prison—The Castillo de Punta—The -Ancient City Walls—The Romance of La Fuerza—Ancient -Churches and Convents of Havana—The Cathedral and -the Tomb of Columbus—The San Francisco Convent—San -Agustin—La Merced—Santa Catalina—Santo Angel—Santa Clara—The -Convent of Belen—The Old Echarte Mansion—La -Chorrera—Fort Cojimar—Some Ancient Watch Towers and -Fortresses—The Botanical Gardens.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">Chapter XXIX</a>. Havana</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_303">303</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Charms of Havana—Early History of the City—Made the -Capital of Cuba—The Quarries from Which It Was Built—Something -About Its Principal Streets and Buildings—Various -Sections of the City—On the Road to the Almandares—Principe -Hill—The University of Havana—The Famous Prado—The -National Theatre—The Central Park and Parque de Colon—Colon -Cemetery—Music in Havana—Favorite Drives and -Resorts—The Bathing Beach—Fishing—Jai Alai—Baseball—Horse -Racing—Golf—Buildings of the Various Government Departments—Memories -of the Old Presidential Palace—Some -Fine New Buildings—The New Presidential Palace—The New -Capitol—The National Hospital.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">Chapter XXX</a>. A Paradise of Palm Drives</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>A Paradise of Palm Drives—Splendor of the Flamboyans—The -Road to Guines—A Fine Drive to Matanzas—Roads from -Havana to Guanajay, Artemisa and the Ruby Hills—Old Military -Roads Improved and Extended—Fine Drives in Pinar del -Rio—The Valley of Vinales—Some Wonderful Landscapes and -Seascapes—Roads Radiating from Matanzas—The Roads of -Santa Clara and Camaguey—Road Making Among the Mountains -of Oriente.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">Chapter XXXI</a>. Bays and Harbors</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_340">340</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Bays and Harbors of the Cuban Coasts—Bahia Honda—Cabanas—Mariel—Havana—Matanzas—The -Land-Locked Bay -of Cardenas—Santa Clara Bay—Sagua—Caibarien—The Bay of -Nuevitas—Manati—Puerto Padre—Gibara—Banes—Nipe—Levisa—Baracoa—Guantanamo—Santiago—Manzanillo—Cienfuegos—Batabano—Santa -Cruz—Various Other Ports, Great and -Small.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">Chapter XXXII</a>. Railroad Systems in Cuba</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_353">353</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Origin of the Railroad Systems of Cuba—The United Railways -of Havana—The Matanzas Railway—Electric Lines Around -Havana—The Great Work of Sir William Van Horne—The -Cuba Company’s Railroad System—The Cuba Central Road—The -North Shore Line—Other Lines and Branches Existing or -Projected.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII">Chapter XXXIII</a>. Money and Banking</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_361">361</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Money and Banking in Cuba—The First Currency of the -Island—The First Monetary Crisis at Havana—Development of -Modern Coinage and Currency—Single Standard and Double -Standard—Colonial Paper Money—Stabilization of Currency Under -American Rule—Statistics of Shipments of Money—Coinage -of Cuban Money Under the New System—Financing the Foreign -Commerce of the Island.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV">Chapter XXXIV</a>. Public Instruction</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_367">367</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>The Educational System of Cuba—Influences of Clericalism—Work -of General Wood and Mr. Frye—Cooperation of Harvard -University—Dr. Lincoln de Zayas—The Teaching of English—Progress -Under President Menocal—Scope of the System—Some -Special Schools—Normal Schools—The Institute of Havana—The -National University—Cooperation with the United States—The -Free Public Library.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV">Chapter XXXV</a>. Ocean Transportation</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_376">376</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Importance of Ocean Transportation to the Insular Republic—Development -of the United Fruit Company—The Ward Line and -Its Fleet—A Network of Communications with All Parts of the -World—Service of the Munson Line—The Peninsular and Occidental -Company—The Railroad Ferry Service from Key West -to Cuba—The Pinillos Izquierdo Line from Spain—The Morgan -or Southern Pacific Line—The Great Fleet of the Compagnie -General Transatlantique—A New Line from Japan—Customs -Regulations—The Consular Service of Cuba.</td><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVI">Chapter XXXVI</a>. American Colonies in Cuba</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_390">390</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>American Colonies in Cuba—Founded After the War of Independence—Pernicious -Activities of Unscrupulous American -Speculators—Heroic Efforts of Illfounded Colonies—The Story -of La Gloria and Its Neighbors—Colonization of the Isle of -Pines—The Colony of Herradura—Various Colonies in Oriente—Inducements -to Further Colonization.</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;max-width:38em;"> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">FULL PAGE PLATES</td></tr> - -<tr><td>Francisco de Frias</td><td><i><a href="#front">Frontispiece</a></i></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2"><small>FACING<br /> -PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Vinales Valley </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_036">36</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>San Juan River, Matanzas</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_054">54</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>On the Cauto River</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_092">92</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>National Theatre, Central Park, Havana</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Gomez Building</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Pablo Desvernine</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_284">284</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>In New Havana</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_296">296</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Colon Park</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_306">306</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>An Avenue of Palms</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Grand Central Railway Station, Havana</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_354">354</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Leopoldo Cancio</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_362">362</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>The Chamber of Commerce, Havana</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_376">376</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TEXT EMBELLISHMENTS</td></tr> - -<tr><td>City Hall and Plaza, Cardenas</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_056">Page 56</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>A Mountain Road, Oriente </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_084">“ 84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Cuban Rural Home </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_145">“ 145</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td>Fruit Vender, Havana </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_209">“ 209</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a></p> - -<h1>THE HISTORY OF CUBA</h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br /><br /> -THE PEOPLE OF CUBA</h2> - -<p>I<small>N</small> the last analysis, of course, the people of a country have much to do -in making it what it is, or what it may be. From them must come the -life, energy, character and development. They will regulate its social -standing and fulfill the promise of its future. Society in Cuba, as in -nearly all long settled countries, is many sided, and while resembling, -more or less, that of all civilized communities, certain racial traits -stand out prominently in the Island Republic.</p> - -<p>If asked to name the most prominent or salient characteristics -dominating the Cuban race, we should probably be justified in saying: -unfailing hospitality, exceptional courtesy, and unmeasurable love of -children.</p> - -<p>Hospitality in Cuba is not a pose, but on the contrary is perfectly -natural, having descended from a long line of ancestors, as have the -beauty of eyes and teeth and color of hair. Hospitality among those of -higher education, like courtesy, is tempered with good form that -breeding has rendered an essential characteristic of the individual. -Journeying through the rural or remote sections, it is so manifestly -genuine that unless held back or retarded through diffidence or -suspicion, no one can avoid being deeply impressed with the extent to -which hospitality has pervaded every corner of the country.</p> - -<p>John B. Henderson, the naturalist, in his “Cruise of the Barrera,” -refers to an occasion when, after serving coffee in the house of a -native family living far from contact with the outside world, a dollar -had been surreptitiously<a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a> given to a child; and when the guests, whom he -had never seen before, were quite a mile away, the father came running -breathlessly down the mountain path to return the money, which he said -he could not possibly accept under any circumstances.</p> - -<p>True courtesy, also, has kept hospitality close company in all grades of -society. Among the higher ranks of scholars, statesmen and Government -officials, the visitor who by chance has occasion to call on the Chief -of any Department, if said individual belongs to the old type of genuine -nobility, from the moment he crosses the threshold will note certain -polite forms that, while never obtrusive, are always in evidence.</p> - -<p>No word, gesture or deed will come from the host that can possibly jar -the sensibilities of the visitor, no matter what his errand may be. -During his stay, courtesy will seem to pervade the atmosphere, and the -caller cannot help feeling absolutely at home. Upon leaving, he will be -made to feel that he has been more than welcome, and even if the topic -discussed or the nature of the errand has been delicate, he will realize -that he has been given all the consideration that one gentleman could -expect of another.</p> - -<p>The educated Cuban is by birth, by nature and by training, a polished -gentleman and a diplomat; a man who will be at ease in any position, no -matter how difficult, and whose superior, socially or intellectually, is -seldom found in any court, committee or congregation of men. This all -prevailing trait of courtesy is also surprisingly manifest among those -who have had no advantages of education, and who have been denied the -wonderfully civilizing influence of travel and contact with the outside -world. Nor is this trait of courtesy and self possession confined by any -means to the man.</p> - -<p>Love of children, and willingness to make any sacrifice for their -happiness, are perhaps exaggerated developments of the motherly -instinct. A man will be polite to you in Cuba even if he intends to sign -your death warrant<a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a> the next moment. A Cuban mother will yield to any -caprice of her children, even although she may realize that in so doing -she endangers their future. As a result, Cuban children, although -lovable and affectionate, are not always well behaved or gentle -mannered. Still this depends largely, as it would in any country, on the -temperament and education of the mother, who in Cuba has all to do -towards forming the character of the child, especially the daughter, in -whose “bringing up” the father is supposed to take no immediate interest -or part.</p> - -<p>The love which parents, rich or poor, educated or ignorant, bestow on -their children, no matter how many little ones may compose the family, -or how small the purse which feeds them, is proverbial. No child, even -of a far removed relative, is ever permitted to enter an institution of -charity if it can be avoided, but will find instead an immediate and -hearty welcome in the family of a man who may not know at times where to -look for money for the next day’s meal.</p> - -<p>The original stock from which sprang the natives of Cuba, and from which -many of their traits undoubtedly came, reverts back to the followers of -Columbus, and to the old time conquerors of Mexico and the New World. -These gentlemanly adventurers were mostly from the southern provinces of -the Iberian Peninsula, whose blood was more or less mixed with that of -the Moor, and whose chief physical characteristics were regularity of -features, beauty of eyes, teeth and hair, and whose mental attributes -were dominated by pride, ambition, love of pomp and ceremony, with great -powers of endurance, a strong aversion to ordinary forms of labor, -exceptional courtesy, and an intelligence frequently marred with almost -unbelievable cruelty.</p> - -<p>These original pioneers or soldiers of fortune in Cuba found the climate -exceedingly to their liking and, after love of conquest and adventure -had been tempered by increasing years, and the possible accumulation of -modest means, they settled down to quiet and fairly industrious<a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a> lives -in the Pearl of the Antilles. From them sprang the true Cuban race, in -which still remain many of the physical, moral, and intellectual traits -of their ancestors.</p> - -<p>Some of these early settlers made wives of comely Indian women, whose -beauty had captured their fancy, and while the influence of the kindly, -pleasure-loving “Cubenos” has not made any deep or striking impression -on the race, it may account for the quite common fondness of display and -love of gaiety found in the Cuban of today.</p> - -<p>Next to the pioneers of Andalusia and southern Spain, it is probable -that the introduction of French blood has influenced the Cuban type and -life more than any other race foreign to the Island. Back in the -seventeenth century French traders and privateers made frequent visits -to Cuba, and some of them found Cuban wives, whose descendants afterward -became citizens of the country. Then again, in the very first years of -the nineteenth century, a large influx of French settlers, forced by -revolution from Santo Domingo, fled as refugees to Cuba and made for -themselves homes in Santiago and Santa Clara, whence with the increase -of Havana’s distinction as the capital, many of them transferred their -abiding place to that province and to Pinar del Rio, bringing with them -their experience as coffee growers; this in the early part of the -nineteenth century, becoming one of the most important industries of the -Island.</p> - -<p>In the province of Havana, social life and the Cuban race itself, to a -certain extent, were influenced by the various officials and army -officers sent there from the mother country, many of whom found wives -and made homes in Havana, bringing with them the predominating traits -and customs of Madrid and other cities of Central Spain, which had given -them birth.</p> - -<p>In later years, when Cuba began to obtain some prominence in the -industrial and commercial world, immigrants from the mother country came -to Havana in steadily increasing numbers. These were mostly from Galicia -and other northern coast provinces of Spain. They were a<a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a> plodding, -frugal and industrious people, who, leaving a country that offered -little compensation for the hardest forms of labor, found easier work -and higher pay in Spain’s favorite colony.</p> - -<p>The Gallego in Cuba, however, prefers the life of the city, in which he -plays quite an important part, since beginning at the very bottom of the -ladder, through patient thrift and industry, maintained throughout a -comparatively few years, he often succeeds in becoming the proprietor of -a bodega, the ubiquitous barber shop, the corner café, or the sumptuous -hotel on the Prado.</p> - -<p>In the commercial life of the Island, he has a serious rival in the -Catalan, who, while possessed of many of the traits of the hard working -son of Galicia, is perhaps his superior in establishing successful -enterprises of larger scope. The Catalan seldom if ever fails in -business, and in energy, persistence and keen foresight, is quite the -equal of those most famous of all traders and men of commerce, the sons -of Israel.</p> - -<p>Since the capture of Havana in 1763, when some of the members of the -English army, captivated by the climate, concluded to remain there -permanently, a small influx of English immigrants may be traced along -through the past century, but never in sufficient numbers to play a very -important part in the social or economical life of the country. -Nevertheless, those who came and remained as permanent residents of -Cuba, brought with them the elements of courage, thrift and integrity -which characterize the English colonist in all parts of the world. -Strange to relate, the general rule in regard to the unconformity of the -English, when living in foreign climes, does not seem to apply in Cuba.</p> - -<p>The immigrant from Great Britain, who settled in Cuba, while leaving the -imprint of his character on his descendants, has nevertheless, sooner or -later, become in many respects a typical native of the country, adopting -even the language, and using it as his own, while his children, bright -blue eyed and keenly intelligent, are often<a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a> permitted to remain -ignorant of their paternal tongue. Hence it is that we frequently meet -with Robert Smith, Henry Brown, Herbert Clews, Frank Godoy, Tom -Armstrong and Billy Patterson, sons or grandsons of former British -subjects, who would look at you in doubt and fail to comprehend if -saluted with such a common phrase as “a fine day” in English. Cuba has -appreciated the sterling value of the small English immigration that has -come to her shores, and only regrets that there is not more of it.</p> - -<p>Quite a large sprinkling from the Emerald Isle have become permanent -residents of Cuba, and aside, perhaps, from a little trace of the -original brogue, it would be hard to distinguish them from the wide -awake Gallegos. The men of no race will so quickly adjust themselves to -circumstances, and become, as it were, members of the family, no matter -whether they settle in France, Italy, Spain, Cuba or the United States, -as will the immigrants from Ireland. The Irishman brings with him, and -always retains, his light-hearted, go-as-you-please and -take-it-as-it-comes characteristics, no matter where he settles. More -than all, the Irishman seldom makes trouble in any country but his own, -and seems not only content, but quite willing, to accept the customs of -his adopted country, even to the point of “running it” if opportunity -offers.</p> - -<p>Why more Italians have not settled in Cuba, a country that in many -respects resembles some sections of southern Italy, is not easy to -determine, although it is probably due to a lack of propaganda on the -part of the Republic itself. Occasional commercial houses are found, -owned by Italians who have been residents there for many years, and a -few of the laboring class, seeking higher wages within the last few -years, have made their homes in Havana. Marvellous opportunities in the -various fields of agriculture wait the keen witted thrifty Italian in -Cuba. The certainty of a competence, if not a fortune, in small stock -raising and grape growing, evidently has not been<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a> brought to his -attention, otherwise more would have come and settled permanently in a -country with whose people, in their fondness for music, their religious -and social customs, they have much in common.</p> - -<p>Of the Germans, of whom quite a number came to Cuba within the last -thirty years, a different tale is told. The Teuton who roams abroad -seems to come always with a definite purpose. He is diplomatic, -courteous, observing, hard working, but essentially selfish in his -motives, and makes no move the object of which is not to impress on the -land he visits, or in which he may become a permanent resident, every -custom, tradition and practice of the Fatherland that can possibly be -implanted in the country that has given him shelter or social -recognition. His club, his habits, his beer, his songs, his language and -his precepts of “Deutscher Ueber Alles,” are spread to the utmost of his -ability. But the German has been efficient and has catered in all his -commercial dealings to the customs, caprices and even to the vices or -weaknesses of the people with whom he trades and comes in contact. Hence -it is that, up to the outbreak of the war of 1914, Germany certainly had -the advantage over every competitor for trade from the Rio Grande to -Patagonia.</p> - -<p>Strange as it may seem, although Cuba is no farther from American -territory in Florida than is Philadelphia from the City of New York, -there was very little immigration from the United States and almost no -citizens of that country, in spite of the attractions of the Pearl of -the Antilles, had apparently ever thought of making a home in Cuba, -until the Spanish-American War brought an army of occupation to the City -of Havana in the fall of 1898.</p> - -<p>Following this army, as a result perhaps of favorable reports that came -from the lips of returning soldiers, quite an influx of Americans, -actuated by curiosity or motives of trade, came to Cuba and remained -here permanently, many marrying into Cuban families, purchasing farms, -or establishing branch houses and independent industries<a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a> in the Island -Republic. Most of these have succeeded socially and financially.</p> - -<p>The larger part of the American settlers of 1900 came from Florida, and -the Gulf States, although scattered throughout the various colonies of -the Island are found people from almost every State of the Union. While -the greater part of them, owing to the attractiveness and to better -transportation facilities have remained in or near Havana, quite a -number have settled in the Province of Camaguey, most of whom have -prospered there as stock raisers and followers of agricultural -industries.</p> - -<p>The American as a rule, although of little experience as a colonizer, -has nevertheless readily adapted himself to circumstances, and had made -fast friends in his new surroundings. Many broad and excellent changes -have been brought about by this influx of citizens from the sister -Republic of the North. Most important of all was the introduction of an -excellent system of modern sanitation which the Cuban has appreciated -and followed with zeal. The absolute elimination of yellow fever and -every other disease common to the tropics, can be placed to the credit -of the country that became sponsor for Cuban Independence.</p> - -<p>To this immigration may be attributed, also, many changes in Cuban -social life, especially the gradually broadening sphere of activity -among Cuban women, and the removal of some of the social barriers which -from the immemorial had placed her in the position of a treasured toy, -rather than that of an independent partner, and a responsible unit in -the game of life.</p> - -<p>The impress of American influence on education, too, has been very -great, since almost the first move of the military forces that took -charge of the Island’s affairs with the exit of Spanish authority was to -establish in Cuba a public school system, and modern ideas of education.</p> - -<p>To the American farmer and fruit grower of Florida was due also the -introduction of the citrus fruit industry,<a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a> and the growing of -vegetables on a large scale for the northern market, and while these -enterprises are still, to a certain extent, in their infancy, many -millions of dollars have been added thus to the wealth of the Island. In -spite of what has been done, truth compels the statement, however, that -in the United States really little is known of Cuba and her -opportunities, although from the beginning of that country as a nation, -aside from Mexico, geographically Cuba has been her closest neighbor.</p> - -<p>There are great possibilities for American enterprise in the Island -Republic, in agriculture, in stock raising, mining and other industries -that American genius in the near future will undoubtedly discover and -develop.<a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /><br /> -THE TOPOGRAPHY OF CUBA</h2> - -<p>T<small>OPOGRAPHICALLY</small> the surface of Cuba may be divided into five rather -distinct zones, three of which are essentially mountainous. The first -includes the entire eastern third of the province of Oriente, together -with the greater part of its coast line, where the highest mountains of -the Island are found. The second includes the greater part of the -province of Camaguey, made up of gently rolling plains broken by -occasional hills or low mountains, that along the northern coast, and -again in the southeast center of the Province, rise to a height of -approximately 1500 feet above the general level.</p> - -<p>The next is a mountainous district including the greater part of eastern -Santa Clara. The fourth comprises the western portion of this province -together with all of Matanzas and Havana. The surface of this middle -section is largely made up of rolling plains, broken here and there by -hills that rise a few hundred feet above the sea level.</p> - -<p>The fifth includes the province of Pinar del Rio, the northern half of -which is traversed from one end to the other by several more or less -parallel ranges of sierras, with mean altitudes ranging from 1,000 to -2,000 feet, leaving the southern half of the Province a flat plain, into -which, along its northern edge, project spurs and foothills of the main -range.</p> - -<p>The highest mountains of Cuba are located in the province of Oriente, -where their general elevation is somewhat higher than that of the -Allegheny or eastern ranges of the United States. The mountainous area -of this province is greater than that of the combined mountain areas<a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a> of -all other parts of the Island. The mountains occur in groups, composed -of different kinds of rock, and have diverse structures, more or less -connected with one another.</p> - -<p>The principal range is the Sierra Maestra, extending from Cabo Cruz to -the Bay of Guantanamo, forty miles east of Santiago. This chain is -continuous and of fairly uniform altitude, with the exception of a break -in the vicinity of Santiago where the wide basin of Santiago Bay cuts -across the main trend of the range. The highest peak of the Island is -known as Turquino, located near the middle of the Sierra Maestra, and -reaching an altitude of 8,642 feet.</p> - -<p>The hills back of Santiago Bay, separating it from the Valley of the -Cauto, are similar in structure to the northern foothills of the main -sierra. In the western part of the range, the mountains rise abruptly -from the depths of the Caribbean Sea, but near the City of Santiago, and -to the eastward, they are separated from the ocean by a narrow coastal -plain, very much dissected. The streams which traverse it occupy valleys -several hundred feet in depth, while the remnants of the plateau appear -in the tops of the hills.</p> - -<p>East of Guantanamo Bay there are mountains which are structurally -distinct from the Sierra Maestra, and these continue to Cape Maisi, the -eastern terminus of Cuba. To the west they rise abruptly from the ocean -bed, but further east, they are bordered by terraced foothills. Towards -the north they continue straight across the Island as features of bold -relief, connecting with the rugged Cuchillas of Baracoa, and with “El -Yunque” lying to the southwest.</p> - -<p>Extending west from this eastern mass are high plateaus and mesas that -form the northern side of the great amphitheatre which drains into -Guantanamo Bay. Much of this section, when raised from the sea, was -probably a great elevated plain, cut up and eroded through the ages -since the seismic uplift that caused its birth.<a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a></p> - -<p>The most prominent feature of the northern mountains of Oriente -Province, west of “El Yunque,” is the range comprising the Sierras -Cristal and Nipe. These extend east and west, but are separated into -several distinct masses by the Rio Sagua and the Rio Mayari, which break -through and empty into harbors on the north coast. The high country -south of these ranges has the character of a deeply dissected plateau, -the upper stratum of which is limestone.</p> - -<p>The character of the surface would indicate that nearly all the -mountains of the eastern part of Oriente have been carved through -erosion of centuries from a high plateau, the summits of which are found -in “El Yunque” near Baracoa, and other flat topped mountains within the -drainage basins of the Mayari and the Sagua rivers. The flat summits of -the Sierra Nipe are probably remnants of the same great uplift.</p> - -<p>Below this level are other benches or broad plateaus, the two most -prominent occurring respectively at 1500 and 2000 feet above sea level. -The highest summits rise to an altitude of 2800 or 3000 feet. The 2000 -foot plateau of the Sierra Nipe alone includes an area estimated at not -less than 40 square miles. It would seem that these elevated plateaus -with their rich soils might be utilized for the production of wheat, and -some of the northern fruits that require a cooler temperature than that -found in other parts of Cuba.</p> - -<p>In the province of Oriente, the various mountain groups form two -marginal ranges, which merge in the east, and diverge toward the west. -The southern range is far more continuous, while the northern is -composed of irregular groups separated by numerous river valleys. -Between these divergent ranges lies the broad undulating plain of the -famous Cauto Valley, which increases in width as it extends westward. -The northern half of this valley merges into the plains of Camaguey, -whose surface has been disturbed by volcanic uplifts only by a small -group known as the Najassa Hills, in the southeast<a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a> center of the -province, and by the Sierra Cubitas Range, which parallels the coast -from the basin of Nuevitas Bay until it terminates in the isolated hill -known as Loma Cunagua.</p> - -<p>The central mountainous region of the Island is located in the province -of Santa Clara, where a belt of mountains and hills following -approximately northeast and southwest lines, passes through the cities -of Sancti Spiritus and Santa Clara. Four groups are found here, one of -which lies southwest of Sancti Spiritus, and east of the Rio Agabama. A -second group is included between the valleys of the Agabama and the Rio -Arimao.</p> - -<p>The highest peak of Santa Clara is known as Potrerillo, located seven -miles north of Trinidad, with an altitude of 2,900 feet. A third group -lies southeast of the city of Santa Clara, and includes the Sierra del -Escambray and the Alta de Agabama. The rounded hills of this region have -an altitude of about 1,000 feet although a few of the summits are -somewhat higher.</p> - -<p>The fourth group consists of a line of hills, beginning 25 miles east of -Sagua la Grande, and extending into the province of Camaguey. The trend -of this range is transverse to the central mountain zone as a whole, but -it conforms in direction with the general geological structure of the -region.</p> - -<p>East of the city of Santa Clara the hills of this last group merge with -those of the central portion of the province. The summits in the -northern line reach an altitude of only a thousand feet. The principal -members are known as the Sierra Morena, west of Sagua la Grande, Lomas -de Santa Fe, near Camaguani, the Sierra de Bamburanao, near Yaguajay, -and the Lomas of the Savanas, south of the last mentioned town.</p> - -<p>In the province of Pinar del Rio, we find another system, or chain of -mountains, dominated by the Sierra de los Organos or Organ mountains. -These begin a little west of Guardiana Bay, with a chain of “magotes,” -known as the “Pena Blanca,” composed of tertiary limestone<a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>. These are -the result of a seismic upheaval running from north to south, almost at -right angles with the main axis of the chains that form the mountainous -vertebrae of the Island.</p> - -<p>Between the city of Pinar del Rio and the north coast at La Esperanza, -the Organos are broken up into four or five parallel ridges, two of -which are composed of limestone, while the others are of slate, -sandstones and schists. The term “magote,” in Cuba, is applied to one of -the most interesting and strikingly beautiful mountain formations in the -world. They are evidently remnants of high ranges running usually from -east to west, and have resulted from the upheaval of tertiary strata -that dates back probably to the Jurassic period.</p> - -<p>The soft white material of this limestone, through countless eons of -time, has been hammered by tropical rains that gradually washed away the -surface and carved their once ragged peaks into peculiar, round, -dome-shaped elevations that often rise perpendicularly to a height of -1,000 feet or more above the level grass plains that form their base. -Meanwhile the continual seepage of water formed great caverns within -that sooner or later caved in and fell, hastening thus the gradual -leveling to which all mountains are doomed as long as the world is -supplied with air and water. The softening and continual crumbling away -of the rock have formed a rich soil on which grows a wonderful wealth of -tropical vegetation, unlike anything known to other sections of Cuba, or -perhaps in the world.</p> - -<p>The valley of the Vinales, lying between the City of Pinar del Rio and -the north coast, might well be called the garden of the “magotes,” since -not only is it surrounded by their precipitous walls, but several of -them, detached from the main chain, rise abruptly from the floor of the -valley, converting it into one of the most strangely beautiful spots in -the world.</p> - -<p>John D. Henderson, the naturalist, in speaking of this region, says: -“The valley of the Vinales must not be<a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a> compared with the Yosemite or -Grand Canon, or some famed Alpine passage, for it cannot display the -astounding contrasts of these, or of many well-known valleys among the -higher mountains of the world. We were all of us traveled men who viewed -this panorama, but all agreed that never before had we gazed on so -charming a sight. There are recesses among the Rocky Mountains of Canada -in which one gazes with awe and bated breath, where the very silence -oppresses, and the beholder instinctively reaches out for support to -guard against slipping into the awful chasm below. But the Valley of -Vinales, on the contrary, seems to soothe and lull the senses. Like -great birds suspended in the sky, we long to soar above it, and then -alighting within some palm grove, far below, to rejoice in its -atmosphere of perfect peace.”</p> - -<p>A mountain maze of high, round-topped lomas dominates almost the entire -northern half of Pinar del Rio. It is the picturesque remnant of an -elevated plain that at some time in the geological life of the Island -was raised above the surface 1500, perhaps 2000, feet. This, through the -erosion of thousands of centuries, has been carved into great land -surges, without any particular alignment or system.</p> - -<p>Straight up through the center of this mountainous area are projected a -series of more or less parallel limestone ridges. These, as a rule, have -an east and west axis, and attain a greater elevation than the lomas. -They are known as the Sierras de los Organos, although having many local -names at different points. Water and atmospheric agencies have carved -them into most fantastic shapes, so that they do, in places, present an -organ pipe appearance. They are almost always steep, often with vertical -walls or “paradones” that rise 1000 feet from the floor or base on which -they rest.</p> - -<p>The northernmost range, running parallel to the Gulf Coast, is known as -the “Costanero.” The highest peak of Pinar del Rio is called Guajaibon, -which rises to an<a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a> altitude of 3000 feet, with its base but very little -above the level of the sea. It is probably of Jurassic limestone and -forms the eastern outpost of the Costaneros.</p> - -<p>The southern range of the Organos begins with an interesting peak known -as the Pan de Azucar, located only a few miles east of the Pena Blanca. -From this western sentinel with many breaks extends the great southern -chain of the Organos with its various groups of “magotes,” reaching -eastward throughout the entire province. At its extreme eastern terminus -we find a lower and detached ridge known as the Pan de Guanajay, which -passes for a few miles beyond the boundary line, and into the province -of Havana.</p> - -<p>Surrounding the Organos from La Esperanza west, and bordering it also on -the south for a short distance east of the city of Pinar del Rio, are -ranges of round topped lomas, composed largely of sandstone, slate and -shale. The surface of these is covered with the small pines, scrubby -palms and undergrowth found only on poor soil.</p> - -<p>From the Mulato River east, along the north coast, the character of the -lomas changes abruptly. Here we have deep rich soil covered with -splendid forests of hard woods, that reach up into the Organos some ten -miles back from the coast. Along the southern edge of the Organos, from -Herredura east, lies a charming narrow belt of rolling country covered -with a rich sandy loam that extends almost to the city of Artemisa.</p> - -<p>Extensions, or occasional outcroppings, of the Pinar del Rio mountain -system, appear in the province of Havana, and continue on into Matanzas, -where another short coastal range appears, just west of the valley of -the Yumuri. This, as before stated, has its continuation in detached -ridges that extend along the entire north coast, with but few -interruptions, until merged into the mountain maze of eastern Oriente.</p> - -<p>Outside of the mountainous districts thus described, the general surface -of Cuba is a gently undulating plain,<a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a> with altitudes varying from only -a few feet above the sea level to 500 or 600 feet, near El Cristo in -Oriente. In Pinar del Rio it forms a piedmont plain that entirely -surrounds the mountain range. On the south this plain has a maximum -width of about 25 miles and ascends gradually from the shores of the -Caribbean at the rate of seven or eight feet to the mile until it -reaches the edge of the foothills along the line of the automobile -drive, connecting Havana with the capital of Pinar del Rio.</p> - -<p>North of the mountain range the lowland belt is very much narrower and -in some places reaches a height of 200 feet as a rule deeply dissected, -so that in places only the level of the hill tops mark the position of -the original plain.</p> - -<p>The two piedmont plains of Pinar del Rio unite at the eastern extremity -of the Organos Mountains and extend over the greater part of the -provinces of Havana and Matanzas and the western half of Santa Clara. -The divide as a rule is near the center of this plain, although the land -has a gradual slope from near its northern margin towards the south.</p> - -<p>In the neighborhood of Havana, the elevation varies between 300 and 400 -feet, continuing eastward to Cardenas. The streams flowing north have -lowered their channels as the land rose, and the surface drained by them -has become deeply dissected, while the streams flowing toward the south -have been but little affected by the elevation and remain generally in -very narrow channels.</p> - -<p>East of Cardenas the general elevation of the plain is low, sloping -gradually both north and south from the axis of the Island. Considerable -areas of this plain are found among the various mountain groups in the -eastern half of Santa Clara province, beyond which it extends over the -greater part of Camaguey and into Oriente. Here it reaches the northern -coast between isolated mountain groups, extending as far east as Nipe -Bay, and toward the south merges into the great Cauto Valley.<a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a></p> - -<p>From Cabo Cruz the plain extends along the northern base of the Sierra -Maestra to the head of the Cauto valley. Its elevation near Manzanillo -is about 200 feet, whence it increases to 640 feet at El Cristo. In the -central section of Oriente, the Cauto River and its tributaries have cut -channels into this plain from 50 to 200 feet in depth. In the lower part -of the valley these channels are sometimes several miles across and are -occupied by alluvial flats or river bottoms. They decrease in width -towards the east and in the upper part of the valley become narrow -gorges.</p> - -<p>A large part of this plain of Cuba, especially in the central provinces, -is underlaid by porous limestone, through which the surface waters have -found underground passages. This accounts for the fact that large areas -are occasionally devoid of flowing surface streams. The rain water sinks -into the ground as soon as it falls, and after flowing long distances -under ground, emerges in bold springs, such as those of the Almandares -that burst out of the river bank some eight miles south of the City of -Havana. Engineers of the rope and cordage plant, just north of the City -of Matanzas, while boring for water, found unexpectedly a swift, running -river, only ten feet below the surface, that has given them an -inexhaustible supply of excellent water.</p> - -<p>Most of the plains of Cuba above indicated have been formed by the -erosion of its surface, and are covered with residual soil derived from -the underlying limestones. Where they consist of red or black clays they -are exceedingly fertile. Certain portions of the plains, especially -those bordering on the southern side of the mountains of Pinar del Rio, -are covered with a layer of sand and gravel, washed down from the -adjoining highlands, and are inferior in fertility to soils derived from -the erosion of limestone. Similar superficial deposits are met in the -vicinity of Cienfuegos, and in other sections of the Island, where the -plain forms a piedmont adjacent to highlands composed of silicious -rocks.<a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br /><br /> -THE CLIMATE OF CUBA</h2> - -<p>S<small>INCE</small> on the climate of country depends largely its healthfulness, -nothing perhaps is of greater importance, especially to the man who -wishes to find some place where he may build his permanent home and -raise his family; to him this feature above all demands careful -consideration.</p> - -<p>The most striking and perhaps the most important fact in regard to the -climate of Cuba is its freedom from those extremes of temperature which -are considered prejudicial to health in any country. The difference -between the mean annual temperature of winter and that of summer is only -twelve degrees, or from 76 degrees to 88 degrees. Even between the -coldest days of winter, when the mercury once went as low as 58 degrees, -and the extreme limit of summer, registered as 92 degrees, we have a -difference of only 34 degrees; and the extremes of summer are seldom -noticed, since the fresh northeast trade winds coming from the Atlantic -sweep across the Island, carrying away with them the heated atmosphere -of the interior.</p> - -<p>The fact that the main axis of the Island, with its seven hundred mile -stretch of territory, extends from southeast to northwest, almost at -right angles to the general direction of the wind, plays a very -important part in the equability of Cuba’s climate. Then again, the -Island is completely surrounded by oceans, the temperature of which -remains constant, and this plays an important part in preventing -extremes of heat or cold.</p> - -<p>Ice, of course, cannot form, and frost is found only on the tops of the -tallest mountain ranges. The few cold<a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a> days during winter, when the -thermometer may drop to 60 after sundown, are the advance waves of -“Northers” that sweep down from the Dakotas, across Oklahoma and the -great plains of Texas, eventually reaching Cuba, but only after the -sting of the cold has been tempered in its passage of six hundred miles -across the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>A temperature of 60 degrees in Cuba is not agreeable to the natives, or -even to those residents who once lived in northern climes. This may be -due to the fact that life in the Tropics has a tendency to thin the -blood, and to render it less resistant to low temperature; and also -because Cuban residences are largely of stone, brick or reinforced -concrete, with either tile or marble floors, and have no provision -whatever against cold. And, although the walls are heavy, the windows, -doors and openings are many times larger than those of residences in the -United States, hence the cold cannot readily be excluded as in other -countries. There is said to be but one fire-place in the Island of Cuba, -and that was built in the beautiful home of an American, near Guayabal, -just to remind him, he said, of the country whence he came.</p> - -<p>Again in the matter of rainfall and its bearing on the climate of a -country, Cuba is very fortunate. The rains all come in the form of -showers during the summer months, from the middle of May until the end -of October, and serve to purify and temper the heat of summer. On the -other hand, the cooler months of winter are quite dry, and absolutely -free from the chilling rains, sleets, snows, mists and dampness, that -endanger the health, if not the life, of those less fortunate people who -dwell in latitudes close to 40 degrees.</p> - -<p>Cloudy, gloomy days are almost unknown in Cuba, and the sun can be -depended upon to shine for at least thirty days every month, and -according to the testimony of physicians nothing is better than sunshine -to eliminate the germs of contagious diseases. Hence we can truthfully -says that in the matter of climate and health, Cuba asks no favor of any -country on earth.<a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br /><br /> -PROVINCE OF HAVANA</h2> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> Province of Havana, with its area of 3,171 square miles, is the -smallest in Cuba, and yet, owing to the city of Havana, capital of the -Republic, it plays a very important part in the social, political and -economic life of the Island.</p> - -<p>Geographically, it is the pivotal province of Cuba, since the narrowest -place across the long arch-like stretch of the Island is found along the -border between Havana and Pinar del Rio, where only twenty-two miles lie -between the Mexican Gulf and the Caribbean Sea. The province proper -measures about thirty miles from north to south, with an average width -of fifty-five.</p> - -<p>The topography of Havana includes a varied assortment of hills, ridges, -plateaus, valleys and plains, so that the scenery never becomes -monotonous; and with the numerous automobile drives that radiate from -the Capital, shaded with the luxuriant foliage of royal palms, bamboo -and other forms of tropical vegetation, it offers to the tourist and -traveler an almost endless panorama of charming change and pleasant -surprise. The average altitude of Havana province is slightly lower than -that of either Matanzas or Pinar del Rio, bordering on the east and -west.</p> - -<p>Columbus, on his second voyage of discovery, cruised along the southern -coast of Cuba until he reached a point a little west of the Indian -village of Batabano. Here he heard of another island not far to the -south. Leaving the coast he threaded his way through shoals and -scattered keys, that even up to the present time have been only -imperfectly charted, and finally, on July 12, 1494, landed at some place -on the northern shore. He<a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a> called this island the Evangelist. It is the -largest of a chain of keys running parallel with this part of the south -coast, irregular in form with an area of approximately eight hundred -square miles, and forms the southern half of the judicial district of -Havana.</p> - -<p>Columbus remained here, taking on fresh water and wood, until July 25, -and then began his return voyage east, sailing over shoals that -displayed so many varying shades of green, purple and white, that his -mariners are said to have become alarmed.</p> - -<p>Some twenty years later Diego Velasquez cruised along the southern coast -to a point west of the Guines River, where he founded a city, which he -called San Cristobal de la Havana. The fifty odd colonists whom he left -behind soon became dissatisfied with the general surroundings of the -spot which he had selected for their abiding place and moved over to the -north shore of the Island near the mouth of the Almandares River, which -they found in every way more agreeable as a place of permanent -residence. In 1519 a second move was made to the Bay of Carenas, where -they located permanently on the harbor, destined soon after to become -the most important port of the West Indies.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of that irregular group of palm thatched huts little -dreamed that four centuries later the Port of Havana would have a -foreign commerce whose tonnage is excelled by only one other in the -Western Hemisphere.</p> - -<p>With the exception of the low, grass-covered plains of the southern -shore, the topography of the Province of Havana is undulating and -picturesque. The northern shore, throughout most of its length, -especially from the City of Havana west to Matanzas, rises more or less -abruptly from the beach until it reaches a rather uneven plateau, -several hundred feet above the level of the sea.</p> - -<p>In the northwestern corner, some two miles back from the shore line, the -“Pan” or “Loma of Guayabon,” which is really a continuation of the Organ -Mountains<a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a> of Pinar del Rio, forms a palm covered, picturesque ridge, -six hundred feet in height, extending from east to west for several -miles. Along the southern edge of this range of hills, runs a beautiful -automobile drive, connecting the capital with the city of Pinar del Rio, -the wonderful valley of the Vinales, Guane and the extreme western end -of the Island. A drive leading from the city of Guanajay extends fifty -miles northwest to the Bay of Bahia Honda, chosen originally as a -coaling station for the Navy, but never occupied.</p> - -<p>In the east central part of the province lie two small mountains known -as the Tetas de Bejucal, and from them, extending in an easterly -direction into the Province of Matanzas, are broken ridges, plateaus, -and hills that form one of the connecting links between the Organ group -of mountains in the west, and the still higher cordilleras of the -Province of Oriente in the extreme east.</p> - -<p>With the exception of the coastal plain running along the southern -boundary, the remainder of the province is undulating, more or less -hilly, and quite picturesque in its contour. A little east of the Tetas -de Bejucal, from the top of the divide that forms the water shed of the -province, looking south, one sees below him the Valley of the Guines, -known as the Garden of Havana. Thousands of acres are here spread out -before the view, all irrigated by the Guines River, whose source is in -the never failing springs that gush from the base of a mountain ridge in -the east center of the Province.</p> - -<p>The rich soil of this section, furnished as it is with water throughout -the year, produces a marvelous yield of sugar cane, potatoes, tomatoes, -peppers, egg plants and other vegetables, affording an inexhaustible -supply during the winter to the capital, forty miles north. Engineers -are making a study of this river so that its water may be more -economically distributed and the acreage of irrigated lands greatly -increased.</p> - -<p>In the southwestern quarter of Havana Province, known as the Tumbadero -District, experiments were first<a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a> made in growing tobacco under cheese -cloth. These were so successful that in a few years Tumbadero, or Havana -wrappers, became famous for their fineness of texture, and within a -short time thousands of acres in that section were converted into -fields, or vegas, whose returns in tobacco leaf product were excelled in -value only by those of the celebrated Vuelta Abajo district of Pinar del -Rio. The towns of Alquizar and Guira de Melina were built and sustained -by the reputation of the Tumbadero wrapper, and the tobacco district was -soon extended well up into the center of the province, including Salud, -Rincon, San Antonio de los Banos, and Santiago de las Vegas. In the -northwestern corner of the Island, the rich valley extending south and -east of the “Pan de Guayabon,” including the towns of Caimito, Hoyo -Colorado, and Guayabal, has recently rivaled the Tumbadero district in -the excellence of its tobacco, and excels in citrus fruit.</p> - -<p>Over three-fourths of Havana Province have been blessed with a -remarkably fertile soil, and although much of it has been under -cultivation for three centuries or more, with the judicious use of -fertilizers, the returns, either in fruit or vegetables, are very -gratifying to the small farmer.</p> - -<p>Along the delightfully shaded automobile drives that radiate from the -Capital in nearly all directions, the price of land within thirty miles -of the city has risen so rapidly that it is being given over almost -entirely to suburban homes and country estates, maintained by the -wealthy residents of the capital. In a climate where frost is unknown, -where the foliage remains fresh and green throughout the winter, it is -comparatively easy to convert an ordinary farm into a veritable garden -of Eden.</p> - -<p>One of the most beautiful places on the Island within the last few years -has been created by General Mario G. Menocal, President of the Republic. -It covers several hundred acres and is known as “El Chico,” or the<a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a> -“Little One.” A commanding residence of Cuban colonial architecture, -standing a little back from the road, has been surrounded with beautiful -drives, lined with every variety of fruit tree, flower and ornamental -plant known to Cuba. The green lawn sweeps up to the stately building -occupied by President Menocal as a residence or country seat in summer. -On this place may be found many varieties of poultry, recently imported -from the United States for experimental purposes, in which the President -is deeply interested. Competent gardeners and caretakers are maintained, -with the result that “El Chico,” where General Menocal and his family -spend much of their time, has become one of the show places of the -Province.</p> - -<p>Col. Jose Villalon, Secretary of Public Works, and Col. Charles -Hernandez, Director of Posts and Telegraph, have pretty country estates -located west of Havana, not far from El Chico.</p> - -<p>The soil of the Province, throughout most of its extent, has been formed -through the erosion of tertiary limestone, colored in many places a -reddish brown of oxide of iron that has impregnated most of the soils of -Cuba. Just south of Havana, serpentine has obtruded through the -limestone along a belt some two or three miles in extent, and forms the -round topped hills in evidence from the bay.</p> - -<p>The greater part of Havana Province, when found by the Spaniards, was -covered with forests of hard woods, that were gradually cut away during -the centuries in which the land has been tilled. The trees, according to -early records, included cedar, mahogany, acana, majagua and others, -still found in the mountainous districts and those sections of Cuba not -yet brought under cultivation. These valuable hard woods formed the -posts, joists, rafters, doors and windows of nearly all the old-time -residences of early days. Many buildings that have remained standing -through centuries, have ceilings that are supported by heavy carved -timbers of mahogany<a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a> and give promise still of long years of service if -permitted to remain.</p> - -<p>The basic wealth of the province, as in nearly all other sections of -Cuba, is dependent on agriculture, although since the inauguration of -the Republic in 1902, manufacturing and various other industries are -beginning to play a prominent part in her economical wealth.</p> - -<p>In agricultural products, the Guines Valley previously referred to -undoubtedly produces greater returns than any other similar lands in -Cuba. Hundreds of thousands of crates of tomatoes, egg plants and other -vegetables, that have been raised through the whiter month by -irrigation, are shipped to the United States from December to April. -Thousands of barrels of Irish potatoes from the Guines Valley, also, are -sold in Philadelphia, New York and Boston during the month of March, at -prices averaging four dollars per hundred weight.</p> - -<p>In the Valley of Caimito, Guayabal and Hoyo Colorado, large crops of -vegetables are shipped to the northern markets during the winter months, -when good prices are assured. A certainty of profit, however, can only -be depended on where irrigation from wells is secured.</p> - -<p>Large acreages of pineapples are grown in the same district, although -the center of the pineapple industry in Havana today is located about -thirty miles east of the City, on the road to Matanzas. Over a million -crates every year are shipped out of Havana to the northern markets -between the middle of May and the middle of July.</p> - -<p>It is probable that no section of either the West Indies or the United -States offers greater opportunities for the canning industry than is -found in Cuba at the present time, especially in the Province of Havana, -where facilities for transportation are plentiful. A general canning and -preserving plant, intelligently conducted, could be operated in this -province throughout the entire year. In this way all of the surplus -pineapples not shipped abroad could be utilized.<a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a></p> - -<p>During the last few years several manufacturing industries have sprung -up on the outskirts of Havana, all of which seem to be yielding -satisfactory returns. Three large breweries are turning out a very good -grade of beer that is disposed of throughout the Island. The plants are -located in the suburbs of Havana, each surrounded by grounds rendered -attractive by landscape gardeners and furnishing places for recreation -and rest to both rich and poor on holidays, which are plentiful in Cuba. -A large up-to-date bottling plant, located just west of the City, -manufactures the containers for the output of the breweries.</p> - -<p>Between the city of Havana and the suburb of Ceiba, a modern rubber tire -and tube factory has been established, and is said to be working on full -time with very satisfactory profits. Several large soap and perfume -factories, recently established, are supplying the demand for these -products with satisfaction, it is said, both to the manufacturer and the -consumer.</p> - -<p>A number of brick yards and tile factories are located not far from the -City, the combined output of which is large. The erection of wooden -buildings within the city limits of Havana is not tolerated. In fact -they are not at all popular in Cuba since the climate is not conducive -to the preservation of wood, aside from cedar and mahogany or other hard -woods, which are too expensive for construction work. Limestone, easily -worked, and of a fine quality for this climate, is found in abundance, -hence it is that the vast amount of building going on at the present -time in Cuba makes heavy demands on both this material and brick, for -all constructive purposes.</p> - -<p>Nature has again favored this Island in her large deposits of excellent -cement-clay, limestone and sand, which are essential to the manufacture -of cement. The Almandares factory located on the west bank of that river -has long been in successful operation. Within the last year another -large modern cement factory has been established on the eastern shores -of the harbor of Mariel,<a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a> twenty-five miles west of Havana, and today is -turning out high-grade cement at the rate of six hundred barrels per -day.</p> - -<p>Local factories have had a monopoly of the match-making industry in Cuba -for many years. Few, if any matches are imported from abroad, and may -never be, owing to the fact that the people of Cuba prefer the wax taper -match. Although short and rather inconvenient to those who are not -accustomed to this miniature candle, the flame burns longer and persists -more successfully in a breeze, hence it is probable that the Cuban match -will hold its own against all competitors. Quite a revenue is derived -from the penny stamp tax placed on each box of matches.</p> - -<p>Large quantities of pine lumber are imported into Cuba from the Gulf -cities, especially from South Pascagoula, Miss., and Mobile. This -material is used throughout the island for interior work, sash, doors, -blinds, etc. Unless covered with paint, hard pine is not very lasting in -this climate, for which reasons, perhaps, show cases, fancy work and -ornamental doors are usually built of the native cedar and majagua, -which are practically impervious to either decay or attack from boring -insects.</p> - -<p>The most important industry of the Province, from the monetary -viewpoint, at least, is the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes, which -are produced in greater quantity in Havana and throughout the province -than in any other part of the world. It is needless to state that the -cigars made in Havana from the celebrated Vuelta Abajo leaf are shipped -from this capital to all parts of the world, and may be found, it is -said, on the private desk of every crowned head in Europe. Large -shipments are made every year, also, to Japan and the Orient. Thousands -of men and girls are employed in this industry, the value of which, in -the export trade alone, amounts to over $30,000,000 a year.</p> - -<p>The Province has but one harbor of any importance,<a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a> the Bay of Havana, -located near the center of the north coast. It covers several square -miles, and although the entrance between the promontory of Morro and the -Punta is only a few hundred yards across, the channel is deep, perfectly -protected, and leads to an anchorage sufficient for large fleets of -vessels. The shore portions of the main body of the harbor were rather -shallow in early times, but during recent years have been well dredged -up to the edge of the surrounding wharves, thus reclaiming a large -amount of valuable land, and greatly increasing the capacity of the Bay -for shipping purposes.</p> - -<p>Since the inauguration of the Republic in 1902, a series of large, -modern, perfectly equipped piers, built of concrete and iron, have been -extended out from the shore line of the western side of the bay, so that -the largest ships may now discharge and take on cargoes, eliminating -thus, to a great extent, the custom of lightering which prevailed only a -few years ago. Owing to the fact that nearly all the principal railroad -systems of Cuba radiate from the Capital, each with a terminal system -connecting with the wharves, the transportation facilities of this port -are superior to any others in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Steam and sail vessels are leaving Havana for different parts of the -world every day in the year, and it is a fact of which the Republic has -reason to be proud, that under normal conditions, or up to the beginning -of the great war, a greater amount of tonnage entered and left the -Harbor of Havana than that of any other city of the Western hemisphere, -with the exception of New York. Dredging is still going on with new -wharves in process of construction and projected, so that today frontage -on the bay is valuable and hard to secure at any price.</p> - -<p>Owing to its excellent transportation facilities and to the local market -furnished by the City of Havana itself, the growing of fruits and -vegetables, within a radius of one hundred miles from the capital, has -proved more profitable than in other parts of the Island.</p> - -<p>Although several small streams flow to the north and<a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a> south of the -dividing ridge, passing through the center of the Island, none of them, -either in length or depth, could well be termed rivers.</p> - -<p>The Almandares, that has its origin in a group of magnificent springs -near the western center of the Province, meanders through a -comparatively level valley, emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, some three -miles west of Havana Harbor. The mouth of this stream, with a depth of -twelve or fourteen feet, accommodates schooners that come for sand and -cement at the factory.</p> - -<p>The Vento Springs, already referred to, are a most valuable asset of the -City of Havana, since the abundant flow of water, that through skilful -engineering has been conveyed some eight miles into the City, is of -excellent quality. The quantity of water, with economy, is sufficient, -according to engineering estimates, for a city of one or two millions.</p> - -<p>In the latter part of the 16th century the Italian engineer Antonelli -cut several ditches across the intercepting ridges and brought water -from the Almandares River into the city of Havana, not only for domestic -purposes but in sufficient quantity to supply the ships that dropped -into port on their long voyages between Spain and the eastern coast of -Mexico.</p> - -<p>On November 7, 1887, the famous Spanish engineer D. Francisco Albear y -Lara completed the present aqueduct and system of water works by which -the springs of Vento are made to contribute to the present Havana, with -its 360,000 inhabitants, a supply of excellent drinking water, although -only a small portion of the flow is utilized.</p> - -<p>Owing to the peculiar coral and soft limestone formation on which the -soil of this province has been deposited, numerous lagoons and rivers -flow beneath the surface at various depths, ranging from 30 to 300 feet. -These, when found and tapped, furnish an abundance of splendid fresh -water, seldom contaminated with objectionable mineral matter. At the -Experimental Station at Santiago<a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a> tiago de las Vegas, a magnificent -spring of water was discovered at a little over one hundred feet in -depth.</p> - -<p>Other springs have formed a shallow lagoon just south of the city of -Caimito, the exit from which is furnished by a small swift running -stream, that after a surface flow of five or six miles suddenly plunges -down into the earth some forty feet or more, disappearing entirely from -view and never reappearing, as far as is known. Like many other streams -of this nature, it may come to the surface in the salt waters of the -Caribbean, off the south coast.</p> - -<p>The disappearance of this river takes place within a hundred yards of -the railroad station, in the town of San Antonio de los Banos, and -furnishes rather an interesting sight for the tourist who is not -familiar with this peculiar phenomenon.</p> - -<p>Although the City of Havana is considered one of the most delightful -winter resorts in the Western Hemisphere, there are many who claim, and -with reason perhaps, that the Capital has many advantages also as a -place in which to spend the summer. Many visitors from the Gulf States -in summer have been loath to leave Cuba.</p> - -<p>The mean annual temperature of Havana varies only twelve degrees -throughout the year. During the winter the mercury plays between the two -extremes of 58 and 78 degrees, with an average of about 70. During the -summer the temperature varies from 75 to 88 degrees, although there are -occasional records where the mercury has reached 92 degrees. Even at -this temperature, however, no great inconvenience is experienced, since -the cool, strong, northeast winds, that blow from the Atlantic, straight -across the Island, sweep into the Caribbean the overheated atmosphere -that otherwise would hang over the land as it does in the interior of -large continents, even in latitudes as high as northern Canada.</p> - -<p>This continual strong current of air, that blows from the Atlantic -during at least 300 days in the year, with its healthful, bracing -influence, tempers the heat of the sun that in latitude 22 is directly -overhead, and probably<a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a> prevents sun strokes and heat prostrations, -which are absolutely unknown in Havana at any time of the year.</p> - -<p>During the first Government of Intervention, American soldiers in the -months of July and August, 1900, put shingled roofs on barracks and -quarters built at Camp Columbia, in the suburbs of Havana, without the -slightest discomfort. Officers who questioned the men with more or less -anxiety, since they were not accustomed to the tropics, were laughed at -for their fears, the soldiers declaring that, “although the sun was a -little hot, the breeze was fine, and they didn’t feel any heat.” Of the -thousands of horses and mules brought from Kentucky and Missouri not one -has ever fallen, or suffered from heat prostration in the Island of -Cuba.</p> - -<p>The nights are invariably cool, so much so that even in July and August, -during the early morning hours, a light covering is not uncomfortable. -There is every reason to believe that in the near future summer resorts -will be successfully established on many of the elevated plateaus and -mountainous parks in various sections of the Island.</p> - -<p>The Province of Havana, even during the times of Spanish rule, had three -or four fine military drives radiating to the south and west of the -Capital. Since the inauguration of the Republic, these highways, shaded -with the evergreen laurel, the almendra, flamboyant and many varieties -of palm, including the royal and the cocoanut, have been converted into -magnificent automobile drives, to which have been added many kilometers -of splendidly paved roads known as carreteras, which connect the towns -and villages of the interior with each other as well as the capital with -the principal cities of other sections of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Along these highways every three or four miles, are found road repair -stations supported by the Department of Public Works, in which laborers -to whom the keeping up of the road is assigned, live, and which shelter -the necessary rollers and road builders under their direction<a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>. These -stations are well built, well kept, and sometimes rather picturesque in -appearance. Their presence should be a guarantee of the permanence and -extension of good road-building in Cuba.</p> - -<p>The political, social and commercial heart of the Republic of Cuba -centers in the city of Havana, hence the province shares more directly -in the national life and prosperity than any other. Cables, wireless -stations and passenger ships of various lines coming and going every day -in the year, maintain constant touch with outside world centers.</p> - -<p>The Presidency, the various departments of the Federal Government, the -Army, Navy, higher Courts, Congress and Universities all pursue their -activities at the capital. The surrounding province, therefore, although -the smallest of the Island, will probably always remain the most -important political division of the Republic.<a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br /><br /> -PROVINCE OF PINAR DEL RIO</h2> - -<p>T<small>OPOGRAPHICALLY</small>, the Province of Pinar del Rio is perhaps the most -picturesquely beautiful in the Island. Owing also to its variety of -soils, mahogany red, jet black, mulatto or brown, and the grey sands of -the south and west, Pinar del Rio offers marvellous opportunities for -many agricultural industries. Tobacco, of which it produces over -$30,000,000 worth annually, has always been the most important product -of this section of Cuba.</p> - -<p>This Province, with its area of 5,764 square miles, owing to the fact, -perhaps, that it lay west of Havana, the capital, and thus outside of -the line of traffic and settlement that began in the eastern end of the -Island, has played historically and politically a comparatively small -part in the story of the Pearl of the Antilles. Its capital, Pinar del -Rio, located about one hundred and twenty-five miles west of Havana, on -the Western Railroad, was founded in 1776, and claims today a population -of 12,000 people.</p> - -<p>The delightful aroma and flavor of the tobacco grown in the section of -which this city is the center, and whose quality has been equaled in no -other place, has rendered this province, in one way at least, famous -throughout the entire civilized world.</p> - -<p>The topography of the province is more distinctly marked than that of -any other in Cuba. The greater part of the surface, including the entire -southern half, together with the coast plains between the mountains and -the Gulf of Mexico, is quite level. Rising almost abruptly from the flat -surface, we have the western terminus of the great central chain of -mountains that forms<a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a> the backbone of the Island. This begins near the -shores of Guadiana Bay and extends in a northeasterly direction -throughout almost the entire length of the Province. The main or central -ridge of the Pinar del Rio system is known as the Sierra de Los Organos, -or Organ Mountains, owing probably to the fact that the sides of these -mountains, in many places, form great perpendicular fluted columns, -whose giant organ like shafts reach upward for hundreds of feet.</p> - -<p>From this western terminal point the mountains rapidly widen out like an -arrow head, so that between San Juan y Martinez on the south, and Malos -Aguas on the north, the foot hills approach close to both coasts. On the -south, however, they quickly recede towards the Capital, some twenty -miles north, whence they continue throughout the northern center of the -Province in a line more or less direct, leaving the southern half a -great, broad level plain.</p> - -<p>On the north coast, from the harbor of San Gayetano east, the mountains -with their adjacent foothills follow more closely the shore line, until -at Bahia Honda, sixty miles west of the city of Havana, they come almost -down to the head of the harbor, gradually receding a little from this -point east, until the chain disappears some ten miles west of the -boundary line that separates Pinar del Rio from Havana.</p> - -<p>Strange as it may seem, nature in her mysterious caprice has twice -repeated the form of a shoe at separate points in the outline of the -south coast of Cuba. The first, known as the Peninsula of the Zapata, -with its definitely formed heel and toe, is in the Province of Santa -Clara; and again a second perfect shoe; that resembles with its high -heel set well forward a slightly exaggerated type of the shoe so popular -with the women of Cuba and all Latin American countries, forms the -extreme western terminus of the Island and is almost separated from the -mainland by a chain of shallow lakes. It extends from Cape Francis on -the east to Cape San<a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a> Antonio, some seventy-five miles west, with an -average width of only about ten miles. Just in front of the heel we have -the indentation known as the Bay of Corrientes, while on the opposite -side, or top of the foot, lies the quiet and protected Bay of Guadiana. -The lighthouse of Cape San Antonio is located on the extreme western -point. From the toe to the heel, following the arch of the foot for -forty miles, runs a low range of hills that introduce the mountain -system of Cuba, developing later into the great central chain that -continues to the other end of the Island.</p> - -<p>Between the City of Pinar del Rio and Vinales, the range is broken up -into three parallel ridges, the central one composed of limestone, while -the other are of slates, schists and sand. The highest peak, known as -the Pan de Guajaibon, has an altitude that has been variously estimated -from 2500 to 3,000 feet. It rises abruptly from the narrow plain of the -north coast, about eight miles, southwest of the harbor of Bahia Honda, -and is difficult of ascent. The various parks, plateaus and circular -basins or sumideros, often of large extent, with subterranean exits, -form strangely picturesque spots that burst on the traveler, mounted on -his sturdy sure footed pony, unexpectedly, and if a lover of scenery he -will leave with sincere regret.</p> - -<p>One of these charming valleys, known as Vinales, lies between two -prominent ridges, about twenty miles north of the City of Pinar del Rio, -and is in many respects the most glorious bit of scenery in all the West -Indies. A splendid macadamized automobile drive winds from the capital -up along the foot hills to the crest of the ridge, whence it descends, -crosses the valley, cuts through the northernmost ridge, and continues -on to La Esperanza, on the north shore of the Province.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">THE VINALES VALLEY</p> -<p>A scene in the heart of the wonderland of Pinar del Rio, which -innumerable tourists have declared second to no other spot in the world -in romantic beauty and fascinating charm. The combination of cliffs and -plain, with the rich coloring of tropical flora, is so bewildering as to -create the illusion of a stage-setting made for scenic effect by some -master artist.</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip034_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip034_sml.jpg" width="540" height="354" alt="THE VINALES VALLEY - -A scene in the heart of the wonderland of Pinar del Rio, which -innumerable tourists have declared second to no other spot in the world -in romantic beauty and fascinating charm. The combination of cliffs and -plain, with the rich coloring of tropical flora, is so bewildering as to -create the illusion of a stage-setting made for scenic effect by some -master artist." /></a> -</p> - -<p>Rex Beach, the novelist, writer and traveler, looked down from his auto -into the valley for the first time in 1916. Stopping the machine -suddenly, he jumped to the ground and stood spellbound, looking down -into that<a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a> beautiful basin, over a thousand feet below. After a -moment’s pause he exclaimed: “I have visited every spot of interest from -northern Alaska to Panama, and traveled through many countries, but -never before in my life have I met anything so picturesquely, -dramatically beautiful as this valley, this dream garden that lies at -our feet. There is nothing like it in the Western Hemisphere, probably -not in all the world.”</p> - -<p>The length of the basin is not over twenty miles while its width varies -from three to ten. The floor is level, covered with rich waving grass, -watered by a little stream, that comes meandering through the valley, -dives beneath a mountain range, afterwards to reappear from a -grotto-like opening on the northern side, beyond the valley, whence its -waters eventually find their home in the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>The peculiar, almost unreal, indentations of the northern ridge are -silhouetted so vividly against the sky above that from the southern -shore of the valley one is inclined at times to believe them -fantastically formed clouds. The remarkable feature, however, of Vinales -lies in the peculiar round-topped mountains that rise abruptly from the -level surface below, and project themselves perpendicularly into the -air, to a height varying from 1,200 to 2,000 feet.</p> - -<p>Unique imposing formations, resulting from millions of years of tropical -rains and rock erosion, are covered with dense forests of strange palms -and thousands of rare plants, whose varied foliage seems to be peculiar -to this isolated spot in the western central part of Pinar del Rio. -These singular dome-like lomas of Vinales, looming up so unexpectedly -from the valley below, are usually accessible from one side, although -but very few people seem to have taken the trouble to climb to their -summits. All of these mountains and foothills, composed of limestone -formations, are honeycombed with caves, some of them of rare beauty.</p> - -<p>Shortly after the founding of the Republic, a group of<a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a> men composed -mostly of naturalists and scientists, representing the Smithsonian and -like institutions in the United States, together with several Cuban -enthusiasts in the study of nature, spent several months studying the -fauna and flora of the Vinales Valley. In fact they rambled and worked -through most of the line of foothills that traverse Pinar del Rio -between its central ridges and the Gulf of Mexico. Some of the party -were specialists in tertiary fossils, others in the myriad varieties of -submarine life. These latter spent considerable time studying the -various species of radiata, mollusca, crustacea and allied forms of life -on the inner side of the long coral barrier reef which parallels the -shore of the province of Pinar del Rio, from Bahia Honda to Cape San -Antonio. Many new varieties of the snail family, also, were discovered -and studied.</p> - -<p>In this connection it may be stated that a very rare variety of the palm -family, the Microoyco Calocoma, commonly called the Cork Palm, found -only in Pinar del Rio, seems, owing perhaps to some unfavorable change -in climate or surrounding conditions, to be disappearing from earth. Not -more than seventy specimens are known to exist and these are all growing -in an isolated spot in the mountains back of Consolacion del Sur. -Several of them have been transplanted to the grounds of the Government -Experimental Station for study and care. One also has been removed to -the grounds of the President’s home at El Chico. The palms are not tall, -none reaching a height of more than twenty feet, with a diameter of -perhaps eight inches.</p> - -<p>This rare palm is one of those miraculous survivals of the carboniferous -age that by some strange protecting influence have survived all the -great seismic upheaval and geological changes wrought on the earth’s -surface during the millions of years since the epoch, when this and -similar varieties of carboniferous plants were the kings of the -vegetable world. Their dead forms are frequently found imprinted in the -coal fields of Pennsylvania and<a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a> Brazil, but only in Cuba has this -family of ancient palms persisted, mute survival of an antiquity that -probably antedates any other living thing on earth. So slow is the -growth of this remarkable plant, that only one crown of leaves appears -each year. By simply counting the circles of scars left by the fallen -leaves, it is clearly demonstrated that many of these remnants of a -remote geological past were living in the mountains of Pinar del Rio -long before Columbus dreamed of another continent. Some of them are -today over a thousand years old, and may have antedated the fall of -Rome, if not the birth of Christ on earth.</p> - -<p>A strange variety of indigenous wild legumes, belonging probably to the -cow-pea tribe, is found growing luxuriantly in the low sandy soil of the -southwestern coast. The vine forms a splendid cover crop of which cattle -are very fond, while the peas, although small, are delicious eating. -Plants of the lily family are found in great quantities in some of the -fresh water lagoons of this Province, the ashes of which furnish 60% of -high-grade potash.</p> - -<p>Back in the mountains of Pinar del Rio, an exploring party from the -Experimental Station came across, most unexpectedly, a little group of -five immense black walnut trees. No one knows whence came the seed from -which they sprung, since the district has never been settled, and the -black walnut is not known in any other part of the Island. It is quite -probable that many, if not all, of the forest trees of a commercial -value in the Gulf States, and perhaps further north, would thrive in -Cuba if planted there.</p> - -<p>There is much fine, valuable hard-wood timber in the mountain ranges of -Pinar del Rio, between Vinales and Bahia Honda, but lack of facility for -the removal to the coast will probably cause it to remain unmolested for -some years to come.</p> - -<p>The extreme length of Pinar del Rio, from southwest to northeast, in a -straight line, is nearly two hundred<a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a> miles, while its average width is -fifty. The rivers and streams all have their sources in the central -divide, and flow to the north and south, emptying into the Gulf of -Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. None of these, of course, are available -for navigation more than a few miles up from their mouths, and while -serving as drainage streams during the rainy season, many of them, -unfortunately, cease to flow during the dry months of February and -March.</p> - -<p>Some of them, with sources in large springs, back in the mountains, -could be used very advantageously, with small expense, for irrigation -purposes, thus rendering adjoining lands, especially in the tobacco and -vegetable district, doubly valuable. With the control of the water -supply, the profit to be made from these lands, on which three or four -crops may be gathered a year, would seem almost incredible, especially -if compared with the returns of similar lands in the United States.</p> - -<p>As an illustration, in any of the rich sandy soils bordering streams -like the Rio Hondo or Las Cabezas of the south coast, or the Manimani or -the Mulata of the north coast, whose waters are always available for -irrigation purposes, in January, February or March corn and cow peas may -be planted on the same ground in the early spring. Crops from these may -be gathered in late May or June, and the same land planted in carita -beans, sweet potatoes or squash, that may be removed in September, -leaving the field to be again planted in October with tobacco, peanuts, -yuca, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, egg plants or okra, that when -gathered in January and February will bring splendid returns in either -the local markets of Havana, or the early spring markets of the Atlantic -and Gulf Coasts of the United States.</p> - -<p>The short streams flowing from the mountain chains along the north coast -are the Mariel, the Manimani, the Mulata, the San Marcos, the Guacamayo, -the Caimito and Mantua, and the Rio Salado. Returning on the south coast -we have the Cabeza, the Guama, Ovas,<a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a> Hondo, Herradura, San Diego, Los -Palacios, Bacuranabo, Sabanal and the Bayale.</p> - -<p>The northern coast of Pinar del Rio is fortunate in having three of the -finest harbors of Cuba, bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. First, the -beautiful Bay of Mariel, located about 30 miles west of Havana, has a -narrow, deep entrance with a lighthouse on the eastern point, and the -Government Quarantine Station for foreign ships on the western side at -the entrance. This Bay rapidly widens out into a large deep basin, three -miles in length from north to south, with an average width of perhaps a -mile, together with several prolongations towards the west, all -furnishing excellent anchorage and securely protected against any -possible weather.</p> - -<p>The shores of Mariel are beautiful. Palm covered bluffs several hundred -feet in height rise almost abruptly from the eastern side of the Bay. On -top of this promontory or plateau is located a fine two-story building, -erected in 1905 as a club house, but occupied at the present time by -Cuba’s Naval Academy. The view from the crest over the surrounding -country, with its tall mountains in the distance, its forest covered -foothills and great valleys planted in sugar cane to the south and west, -with the Gulf of Mexico lying off to the north, presents a picture of -rare tropical beauty.</p> - -<p>Between this promontory and the lighthouse a modern cement factory was -built in 1917, turning out at the present time 1,000 barrels of Portland -Cement per day, while near the head of the Bay, a narrow gauge railroad, -bringing asphalt from back in the foothills, terminates alongside the -shipping wharf.</p> - -<p>The quaint little fishing village of Mariel is located on the shore at -the southern end of the Bay. Its inhabitants, although leading rather an -uneventful life, seem quite content to remain, although Havana is less -than thirty miles distant over a splendid automobile drive; one of the -most beautiful in Cuba. The Quarantine Station is splendidly equipped -and always in readiness to take care<a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a> of any ship’s crew or passengers -that may be detained by orders of the authorities in Havana. Mariel, -owing to its natural beauty and its proximity to Havana, is frequently -visited by President Menocal in his yacht, and furnishes a delightful, -cool resting place for anyone during the summer season.</p> - -<p>Ten or twelve miles further west, we have the Bay of Cabanas, another -perfectly land-locked harbor, whose deep entrance is divided by an -island into two channels. These open out into a wide picturesque expanse -of water, extending east and west for some ten miles or more, with an -average width of two or three.</p> - -<p>On the small island that almost obscures the mouth of the harbor from -the sea, a little old Spanish fort, with its obsolete guns, up to the -present unmolested, bears mute evidence to those times when visits of -pirates, with the equally troublesome corsairs of France and England, -were common, and provision for defense was absolutely necessary. The -village of Cabanas, in order to secure better protection from the danger -mentioned, is located two or three miles back from the eastern end of -the harbor.</p> - -<p>Great fields of sugar cane surround the Bay on all sides. These, of -course, have been greatly extended since the European War and the -increased demand for sugar. A beautiful automobile drive that branches -from the main line or Pinar del Rio road, at Guanajay, passes along the -crest of the ridge of hills back of the Bay of Cabanas, for over ten -miles, giving at almost every turn a new view to this beautiful sheet of -water. Once known to the outside world, this magnificent Bay of Cabanas -would soon become a popular resort for private yachts that spend the -winter season in tropical waters.</p> - -<p>Fifteen miles further west, this same winding, hill-climbing, -macadamized Government driveway, reaches another splendid harbor known -as Bahia Honda, or Deep Bay. Like most of the bays of Cuba, the entrance -to this, although comparatively narrow, is deep, and with<a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a> two range -lights maintained for the purposes of easy access day and night. This -harbor extends back from the Gulf of Mexico some seven or eight miles, -with an average width of three or four, furnishing good anchorage for -ships of any draught.</p> - -<p>Bahia Honda was selected by the United States Government in 1902, as a -coaling station, a large body of land on the western shore being -reserved for that purpose. Owing, however, to the completion of the -Panama Canal later, and to the consequent advantages of having a naval -station closer to the line of maritime travel, between Panama and the -Atlantic Coast, Bahia Honda was surrendered to the Government of Cuba -and Guantanamo became the principal United States Naval Station for the -West Indies.</p> - -<p>The harbor of Bahia Honda, dotted with islands, and with comparatively -high lands extending all along its western and southern shores, offers -the same advantages, not alone for an extensive commerce, but as a -rendezvous for foreign yachts and pleasure craft, during the closed -season or winter months of the north. The little village bearing the -same name, two miles back from the Bay, is reached by a branch from the -main driveway connecting Bahia Honda with Havana and intermediate -cities.</p> - -<p>The Bay of La Esperanza, one hundred miles west of Havana, is inclosed -by the long chain of islands and coral reefs known as the “Colorados,” -that lie some eight or ten miles off the mainland, and protect -three-fourths of the shore of Pinar del Rio from the heavy waves of the -Gulf of Mexico. The entrance to this and adjacent bays is through narrow -breaks in the barrier reef. Its waters have an average depth of only two -or three fathoms; nevertheless considerable amounts of copper ore are -shipped from the mines some fifteen miles back in the mountains during -all seasons of the year.</p> - -<p>Along the western shore of the main body of this Province, we have the -harbors of Dimas and Mantua.<a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a> Like the Esperanza, they are comparatively -shallow bays, entered through breaks in the Colorado Reefs, but still -available for moderate draft vessels in all seasons of the year.</p> - -<p>In the angle of the ankle, formed by the shoe-like extension of the -Province of Pinar del Rio, we have a beautiful wide indentation of the -coast known as Guardiana Bay. On the shores, some ten years ago, was -located a Canadian colony, but, owing to its isolation, and lack of -transportation of all kinds, it has since been practically abandoned. -This settlement, like the Isle of Pines, had little to recommend it -except its beautiful climate and its perfect immunity from the cares and -troubles of the outside world.</p> - -<p>Aside from wide, deep indentations from the sea, and shallow landing -places at the mouths of rivers, the south coast of Pinar del Rio has -nothing to offer in the shape of harbors. Nevertheless, owing to the -presence of long lines of outlying keys, and to the fact that northerly -winds produce only smooth water off these shores, there is considerable -local traffic carried on between various places on the south coast and -Batabano, whence connection with Havana is secured by rail. A large part -of the charcoal used in the capital is cut from the low lying forests -that cover almost the entire length of Pinar del Rio’s south coast.</p> - -<p>Across the ankle-like connection between the mainland and the peninsula -forming the western extremity of the Island a depression runs from -Guardiana Bay on the west to the Bay of Cortez on the east. Numerous -fresh water lagoons or inland lakes lie so close that a small amount of -dredging would cut a canal from one shore to the other, and save thus -over a hundred miles of travel for local coasting vessels. At the -present time these lakes, with their rich growth of aquatic plants, -furnish a retreat during the winter season for many varieties of wild -ducks, which the game laws of Cuba are endeavoring to protect. Wild deer -are also very plentiful<a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a> throughout the greater part of the Province, -especially in the mountainous districts and in the jungles of the south -coast.</p> - -<p>The capital, Pinar del Rio, is a modern and rather attractive little -city of some 12,000 inhabitants, located on a gentle rise of ground in -the western center of the Province. Immediately surrounding it is the -celebrated tobacco district known as the Vuelta Abajo, or Lower Turn, so -called, perhaps, owing to the fact that the coast line of this section -recedes rapidly towards the south and west.</p> - -<p>The choice lands of this locality cover a relatively small area, not -over thirty miles from east to west and less than half that distance -from north to south. And even within this circumscribed area, the best -tobacco is grown only in little vegas, or oases, whose soil seems to -contain mineral elements the character of which has never been -discovered, but that nevertheless give to the plant a peculiarly -delightful aroma and flavor, not known to the tobacco of any other part -of the world. As a result, the price of these little vegas, so favored -by Nature, is very high, often running into thousands of dollars per -acre.</p> - -<p>Pinar del Rio is connected with Havana by the Western Railway, that -traverses almost the entire length of the Province, terminating at the -present time at the town of Guane within thirty miles of Guardiana Bay. -This railroad furnishes transportation for the great level plains, -together with the fertile foot hills that occupy the southern half of -the Province.</p> - -<p>An extension of the line has been granted and contracts signed carrying -it around the western terminus of the Organ Mountains, whence it will -follow the line of the north shore, returning east to Havana. This line -when completed will furnish transportation to the entire length of the -coast lands bordering on the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>Along the Western Road are a number of prosperous little cities or -villages, with populations varying from two to eight thousand, including -Artemisa, Candelaria,<a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a> San Cristobal, Taco-Taco, Los Palacios, -Herradura, Consolacion del Sur, Ovas, etc., all of which are located -along the foothills, and in the tobacco district is known as the Partido -or Semi Vuelta. Beyond Pinar del Rio, we have San Luis, Martinez and -Guane, which claim to be within the charmed zone of Vuelta Abajo.</p> - -<p>Tobacco is also grown around the little town of Vinales, nestling in the -center of that valley, and in nearly all of the foothills that border -the north coast; hence the tobacco industry in this end of the Island, -greatly exceeds in value, that of sugar cane, which up to the beginning -of the great war, was grown only in the basins of rich heavy soil -surrounding the harbors of Mariel, Cabanas and Bahia Honda. There are -seven ingenios or sugar mills within the limits of this province that -produced together 645,000 bags of sugar in 1918.</p> - -<p>The growing of fruits and vegetables, especially since the birth of the -Republic, was introduced into Pinar del Rio as an industry by Americans, -many of whom settled along the line of the Western Road, many of these, -taking advantage of the rich sandy loams between the railroad line and -the Organ Mountains, have built up a really important industry not -before known to Cuba.</p> - -<p>An American colony was started at Herradura, one hundred miles west of -Havana in 1902. Unfortunately, the inhabitants of the little settlement -gave nearly all of their capital and energy to the planting of citrus -fruit groves, which as a whole, have rather disappointed their owners. -This was not because the growing of citrus fruit cannot be successfully -carried on in Pinar del Rio, but was in most instances owing to the fact -that the areas planted were very much larger than the available help -could possibly handle and care for intelligently; hence many groves, -lacking this care, have lapsed into grazing lands, whence they came.</p> - -<p>The growing of vegetables, green peppers, tomatoes, egg plants and -beans, especially where farms were located near enough to streams to -provide irrigation during the<a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a> months of January, February and March, -has proven very profitable, and within the near future will undoubtedly -be still further extended.</p> - -<p>In the early part of the 19th century, and for that matter, up to the -abolition of slavery in 1878, the production of coffee in the -mountainous districts of Pinar del Rio was the chief industry in the -Province. Beautiful estates, the ruins of which are frequently scattered -along the line of the Organ Mountains, especially in that section of the -range included between San Cristobal and Bahia Honda, and splendid -country homes with approaches cut from the main highways of travel up -into these delightful picturesque retreats, were occupied during the -summer months by prominent citizens of Havana, who found the growing of -coffee both profitable and agreeable. The coffee trees still grow, -although uncared for, and many thousand of pounds are still brought out -of this almost forgotten district, on mule back, to be sold to the -country groceries of Bahia Honda and San Cristobal, where the green -beans bring twenty dollars per hundred weight.</p> - -<p>With the introduction of colonists from the Canary Islands, Italy, and -other countries who love the fresh air of the mountains, and who do not -object to the isolation which naturally follows a residence in remote -sections, there is every reason to believe that the coffee industry will -again be resumed. The settlement of these hills and vales with families -whose children can assist in the picking of berries, will make the -growing of coffee a great success.</p> - -<p>Until 1913 the mining interests of Pinar del Rio were practically -ignored, in spite of the fact that several excavations or shafts, that -had been worked many years before, gave evidence of the existence of -copper. It was in this year that Luciano Diaz, formerly Secretary of -Public Works, became interested in the district known as Matahambre. -Competent mining engineers, brought from the United States, assured Mr. -Diaz that his claim<a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a> was valuable, and merited the investment of -capital. This proved to be true, since the mine has produced high-grade -copper at the rate of about five million dollars per year since the date -of its opening.</p> - -<p>Valuable deposits of manganese, too, have been recently discovered in -the western end of the province, and will undoubtedly be developed in -the near future. Excellent iron ore is found in the same chain, west of -the capital, but owing to the difficulties of transportation, the mines -have never been operated. Asphalt, asbestos and other substances used in -the commercial world, are found at various points along the range, and -await only intelligent direction and capital for their development.</p> - -<p>Although Narciso Lopez, with his unfortunate followers, endeavored to -arouse the people of this Province against the iniquities of Spanish -rule in the year 1852, the revolution had never reached the west until -the winter of 1896, when General Antonio Maceo, with his army of Cuban -veterans, carried the “invasion of the Occident” to its ultimate -objective. After one of the most skilfully conducted campaigns known to -history, he rested for a few weeks in the little town of Mantua, within -a few miles of the extreme western shore of Cuba.</p> - -<p>The crossing of the Trocha, that had been built between the harbor of -Mariel and the south coast, by this invading army, was very distasteful -to General Weyler, who soon filled Pinar del Rio with well armed -regiments and gave Maceo battle for more than a year. Short of -ammunition, and in a section of the country where it was almost -impossible for the expedition to aid him, General Maceo was compelled to -keep up a running fight for many months, and in the Organ Mountains and -in their various spurs toward the north coast were fought some of the -most stubbornly contested engagements of the War of Independence.<a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br /><br /> -PROVINCE OF MATANZAS</h2> - -<p>H<small>ISTORICALLY</small> the province of Matanzas has played a comparatively -unimportant part in the various events that have influenced the destiny -of the Island. In the early days of conquest, little mention of the -district was made. Grijalva, however, with a small body of men, was the -first of the Spanish conquerors who, pushing his way along the northern -coast of Cuba, reached the harbor now known as Matanzas on October 8, -1518. A very substantial fort of the same excellent style of military -architecture as that seen in Havana, was erected on the western shore of -the Bay of Matanzas to protect the city from invasion, in the middle of -the eighteenth century.</p> - -<p>The province of Matanzas joins Havana on the east and has an area of -3,257 square miles. The surface as a whole is comparatively level, -although the chain of mountains, which forms the backbone of the entire -Island, is represented along the center of Matanzas in a series of low -peaks and foothills sloping away to the northwest corner, in which the -capital, Matanzas, is located on a bay of the same name.</p> - -<p>Across the eastern center of the Province of Matanzas, nature left a -depression that extends from the north coast at Cardenas, almost if not -quite, to the shore of the Caribbean, at the Bay of Cochinos. The -elevation above the sea level is so slight throughout this belt that a -series of fresh water lagoons, swamps and low lands, without natural -drainage of any kind, has rendered the district almost useless for -agriculture and grazing purposes during the rainy season. Between the -months of May and November this section is frequently flooded so that -animals<a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a> occasionally perish and crops are frequently destroyed.</p> - -<p>To relieve the situation a drainage canal was proposed a few years ago, -that should furnish an artificial exit for the surplus water into the -Bay of Cardenas. The length of the proposed canal was thirty miles, and -work began on the big ditch in 1916. At the present time it is -practically completed, at a cost of approximately five millions of -dollars. Its width varies from sixteen to forty-four meters, carrying an -average depth of one and a half meters, or five feet.</p> - -<p>The possibility of eventually converting this drainage canal into an -avenue of traffic, between the north and the south coasts, furnishing -thus water, or cheap transportation, between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas -and Cienfuegos, or other ports on the south coast, has naturally -appealed to engineers who have studied the terrain. There are no -engineering difficulties that would prevent a canal of this kind from -being converted into a deep ship canal across the Island which would -shorten the distance between New York and Panama by at least two hundred -miles. Steamers bound north from Panama would then cross the Caribbean, -pass through from Cochinos Bay to Cardenas, entering at once the Gulf -Stream, the force of whose current would still further shorten the time -between Panama and Pacific ports on the south, and all Atlantic ports -north of Cuba. The engineering problem could not be more simple, since -it is merely a question of dredging through earth and soft limestone -rock for a distance of seventy-five miles, taking advantage, as does the -present drainage canal, of the Auton River, where it empties into -Cardenas Bay. That such a saving of time and distance will some day be -consummated is more than probable. Not only the economics and benefits -to be derived from such a shortening of miles between local points in -times of peace, but the strategic advantage of the short cut for naval -units in time of war, are more than manifest to any one at all<a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a> familiar -with the geography of Cuba and the West Indies. Cuba, for commercial and -economical reasons, is deeply interested in the construction of a canal -that would make the Province of Matanzas an intersea gateway, not only -for her own coastwise trade, but for much of the northbound traffic that -in the near future will carry millions of tons of raw material from the -west coast of South America to the great manufacturing centers of the -North Atlantic.</p> - -<p>Running parallel with the north shore, a short series of remarkable -hills rise abruptly from the surrounding level plain to an altitude of a -thousand feet or more. One of these is known as the “Pan de Matanzas,” -whose round, palm covered top may be seen for many miles at sea. Ships -coming from New York usually make this peak above the horizon before any -other part of the Island comes into view.</p> - -<p>The Yumuri River, at some time in the remote geological past cut its way -through these hills and found exit in Matanzas Bay. The valley lying -between two of these parallel ridges, through which the Yumuri flows, -has been rendered famous by Alexander Humboldt, who visiting the spot in -the winter of 1800, traveling over most of South and Central America, -pronounced it the most beautiful valley in the world. No terms of praise -are too great to bestow on the Yumuri; but in truth it must be said that -Humboldt had never seen the Valley of Vinales, one hundred and thirty -miles west, or he would probably have hesitated in bestowing such -superlative praise on the Yumuri.</p> - -<p>Only a few miles south of the Yumuri, another river known as the San -Juan has broken through the ridge which lies along the western shore, -and empties its waters into the bay. Another small stream, the Canima, -pouring its waters into the Bay, a little further east, flows through a -series of limestone cliffs covered with a wealth of tropical forest and -furnishes a source of recreation to visitors and many people of the -capital, who make excursions<a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a> to the head of navigation in motor -launches.</p> - -<p>The Province has an average length of about 70 miles, with a width from -north to south of fifty miles, and forms a fairly regular parallelogram. -From the center of the coast line a narrow neck of land, known as the -Punta Hicaco, projects out toward the northeast for some fifteen miles, -inclosing the Bay of Cardenas on the west. The outer shore of this strip -of land, known as El Veradero, forms the finest bathing beach in all -Cuba, to which those who do not find it convenient to visit the United -States in summer, can come during the warmer months.</p> - -<p>A chain of islands varying in size from little keys of a half acre to -that of Cayo Romano, seventy miles long, extends from a few miles east -of Punta Hicaco, along the north shore of Cuba to the Harbor of -Nuevitas, a distance of three hundred miles. The Bay of Cardenas, -although large in extent is rather shallow in comparison with most -harbors of Cuba. Extensive dredging, however, has rendered it available -for steamers of 20-foot draft.</p> - -<p>The southern boundary of the Province is formed by the River Gonzalo, -fairly deep throughout half its length, but obstructed by shoals at the -mouth. The upper extension of this stream, known as Hanabana, flows -along the larger part of its eastern boundary. Just south of the Gonzalo -River lies the great Cienaga de Zapato, or Swamp of the Shoe, which -belongs to the Province of Santa Clara. The land along the northern bank -of the river is also low and marshy, with sharp limestone rocks -frequently cropping out on the surface. Of navigable rivers, Matanzas -has really none worthy of mention but with railroads it is quite well -supplied.</p> - -<p>The surface as a whole is slightly rolling and has long been under -cultivation, especially in the production of sugar cane, for which -nearly all of this section is excellently adapted. There are forty sugar -plantations in active operation in Matanzas Province, producing in 1917 -over four million sacks. The cultivation of sugar cane,<a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a> as in other -provinces, is the chief source of wealth and yields the greatest -revenue.</p> - -<p>In recent years, or since revolutions have practically destroyed the -industries of Yucatan, capital has been attracted to the cultivation of -henequen, and to the extraction of the fibre known as sisal, from which -not only rope and cables are made, but also binding twine, so essential -to the wheat crop of the United States.</p> - -<p>Leaving the city of Cardenas, which promises soon to be another great -sisal center, and traveling west over the automobile drive towards -Matanzas, a perfect panorama of growing henequen is spread out on both -sides of the road as far as the eye can reach. The peculiar bluish green -color of the fields of this valuable textile plant, dotted as they are -with royal palms, produce a fascinating effect as one passes through -league after league of henequen.</p> - -<p>There are many limestone hills, plateaus and plains in Matanzas -Province, whose surface, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, is -especially adapted to the growth and cultivation of henequen, and it is -quite possible that the sisal industry, in a short time, may equal if -not excel in importance the sugar industry of the province.</p> - -<p>Some twenty years ago a complete plant was established in the city of -Matanzas for the manufacture of cables, cordage and binding twine for -the local market. Thousands of acres of barren hillsides south of the -city were planted in henequen at that time, and have since furnished -enough raw material to keep this rope factory going throughout the -entire year. The decortator, or machine by which the sisal is separated -from the pulp of the leaves, is located near the crest of the hill, -about a half a mile back of the factory. From this point down to the -plain below, the green fresh sisal is conveyed by gravity in iron -baskets, where it is received by women and spread out on wire lines to -dry. Twenty-four hours later it is carried into the factory and there -spun into rope of all sizes, from binding twine to the twelve-inch<a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a> -hawsers. Water was found alongside the factory only a few feet below the -surface, where an underground stream furnishes an inexhaustible supply.</p> - -<p>Several millions were invested in the Matanzas henequen industry, -started by a company of Germans, who recently sold out to local and -foreign capitalists. It is said that the capacity of the plant will be -greatly increased.</p> - -<p>The city of Matanzas, capital of the Province, is spread out over the -side and along the base of the low hill that forms the western shore of -the Bay. Although not possessing the wealth of Havana, the general -appearance of the city, with its substantial stone buildings, gives -every evidence of prosperity and comfort. Its population numbers -approximately 40,000, the greater part of whom are interested in sugar, -henequen and other local industries of the section.</p> - -<p>Matanzas was first settled in 1693, but the modern city is laid out with -wide streets, the oldest of which as usual radiate from the central -plaza or city park, a quaint square ornamented with oriental palms and -tropical flowers. The most pretentious drive of this provincial capital, -however, has been built along the shore of the bay, a beautiful wide -avenue lined with laurels and with statues of various local heroes, -which add greatly to its interest. The view from the opposite side of -the bay is excelled only by that of Havana from the heights of Cabanas.</p> - -<p>Just back of the City, or rather on the edge of its northwestern -boundary, perched on the front of a commanding promontory known as La -Loma de Monserrate, is located a quaint little cathedral dedicated to -the Virgin of El Cobre. The altar and background of the nave are -constructed of cork, brought from Spain for that purpose many years ago. -From the crest of this flat topped hill, protected on the north by a -stone wall, with spacious seats of the same material, under the shade of -laurel trees, the traveller has spread before him a beautiful<a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a> view -of the Yumuri Valley, over which Humboldt gazed with admiration some -hundred years ago.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">SAN JUAN RIVER, MATANZAS</p> - -<p>Second only to Havana itself on the northern coast of Cuba is the great -commercial and residence city of Matanzas. Instead of standing upon the -shore of a land-locked bay, however, Matanzas is built on the banks of -the San Juan River, a broad, deep stream affording admirable facilities -for navigation, and lined for a considerable distance partly with -handsome houses and business buildings and partly with busy docks and -wharves, thronged with vessels of all descriptions. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip002_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip002_sml.jpg" width="533" height="351" alt="SAN JUAN RIVER, MATANZAS - -Second only to Havana itself on the northern coast of Cuba is the great -commercial and residence city of Matanzas. Instead of standing upon the -shore of a land-locked bay, however, Matanzas is built on the banks of -the San Juan River, a broad, deep stream affording admirable facilities -for navigation, and lined for a considerable distance partly with -handsome houses and business buildings and partly with busy docks and -wharves, thronged with vessels of all descriptions." /></a> -</p> - -<p>Leading from the Capital are several very beautiful automobile drives; -one reaching out towards the north and rounding the eastern terminus of -the Yumuri Valley, gives a beautiful view of that charming basin as it -stretches away toward the west.</p> - -<p>Another delightful drive sweeps along the south shore towards Cardenas. -A few miles from Matanzas, however, a sharp turn to the right leads up -on to the summit of the ridge south of Matanzas. The drive passes -through the long stretches of henequen fields whose plants furnish the -fibre to the factory near the railway station.</p> - -<p>On the crest of the plateau, under the shade of a small grove of trees, -is found an odd little building that serves as the entrance to the -Bellamar Caves. This famous underground resort is quite well known to -tourists who visit Cuba in the winter season. Visitors are lowered by -means of an elevator to a depth considerably below the level of the sea, -after which guides take the party in charge and lead the way through -several miles of interesting underground passages, ornamented with -stalactites, stalagmites and other beautiful formations peculiar to -those old time waterways that forced their tortuous channels through the -bowels of the earth thousands of years ago.</p> - -<p>Many of these formations are of a peculiar pearl white with a delicate -texture that resembles Parian marble and gives a metal-like ring when -struck. The entire cave is lighted with electricity and entrance to the -more inaccessible spots has been rendered possible through artificial -steps and balustrades. The city of Matanzas furnished an interesting and -pleasant spot in which the tourist can spend a few days agreeably.</p> - -<p>The harbor of Matanzas is a wide mouthed roadstead, cutting back from -the Atlantic some five or six miles with a width varying from three to -four. Dredging<a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a> within recent years has greatly improved the port, -although with deep draft vessels, lightering is still necessary to -convey freight from the warehouses out to the various places of -anchorage.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip056_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip056_sml.jpg" width="353" height="237" alt="CITY HALL AND PLAZA, CARDENAS" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CITY HALL AND PLAZA, CARDENAS</span> -</p> - -<p>The view of the City, covering the slopes of the hills on the west as -you enter the bay, is very attractive. Since the Province of Matanzas -has no harbors on the south coast, nearly all the sugar produced in her -forty big mills is shipped from either Matanzas or Cardenas, both of -which are connected with railroads that tap the various agricultural -sections lying south of them.</p> - -<p>The second city of the Province, Cardenas, is located on Cardenas Bay, a -large and well protected harbor thirty miles east of Matanzas. In -comparison with most of the harbors, however, it is comparatively -shallow, needing a good deal of dredging to make it available for deep -draft vessels. Cardenas, like Matanzas, is comparatively modern, with -wide streets, regularly laid out. The old square, with its statue of -Columbus, has been recently remodeled at considerable cost.</p> - -<p>The first serious indication of revolt on the part of<a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a> the Cuban people -against the rule of Spain, was started here by General Narciso Lopez, -who landed at Cardenas with 600 men, mostly Americans from New Orleans, -on May 19, 1850. Within a few hours they had captured the Spanish -garrison and made prisoners of Governor Serrute and several of his -officials. The city was theirs, but to the unspeakable chagrin of -General Lopez, only one man came to his aid on Cuban soil, and before -nightfall, after defeating a Spanish column sent to oppose him, the -disappointed revolutionist abandoned the city, and with his followers -embarked for Key West.</p> - -<p>It was on May 11, 1898, that Cardenas Bay became the scene of an -engagement between blockading vessels of the United States fleet and the -Spanish batteries, in which Ensign Worth Badgley was killed, he being -the first officer to lose his life in the war.</p> - -<p>The exportation of sugar from the rich lands tributary to this bay has -always given Cardenas importance as a shipping point and rendered it, -for a city of only 30,000, quite a wealthy and prosperous community. -Many beautiful residences have been built along its stately avenues, and -the great henequen industry recently started in the great fields to the -west will add, undoubtedly, to the wealth of the locality. Splendid -stone warehouses line the shore for a mile or more, with a capacity -sufficient to hold in storage while necessary the enormous crop of sugar -that is produced in the province.</p> - -<p>The presence of naphtha and many surface indications of oil deposits -south and east of the City of Cardenas have rendered that section -attractive as a field of exploration. Up to the present time, however, -no paying wells have been found, although many expert oil men are still -confident that the entire district from Cardenas to Itabo, and even -further east, will some day prove a valuable field for petroleum -products.</p> - -<p>Midway between Cardenas and the City of Matanzas, just north of the -beautiful highway connecting these two<a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a> cities, rises a range of low -serpentine hills, whose altitude is approximately five hundred feet. -These peculiarly symmetrical, round, loaf-like elevations above the -level surface of the surrounding country, are covered with a short -scrubby growth of thorny brush, and several varieties of maguey, of the -century plant family. Nothing else will grow on these serpentine hills; -hence in most respects they are decidedly unattractive. Since the -beginning of the international war, however, and the great demand for -chrome, some local mineralogists noted that little streams and rivulets -running down these hills left deposits of a peculiar black, glistening -sand. This sand, when analyzed, proved to come from the erosion of -chromite, the mineral so much in demand by the smelting industry of the -United States for hardening steel. In the spring of 1918 two well-known -mining engineers and geologists, with instructions from Washington, -visited several of these serpentine hills and found valuable deposits of -chromite that will probably furnish a very profitable source of this -much sought-for mineral and add greatly to the mining industry of this -province.</p> - -<p>During the War of Independence, Generals Antonio Maceo and Maximo Gomez -led the invading columns of the Revolutionary Army into this Province -for the first time, in the fall of 1896. The great beds of dead leaves -lying between rows of cane, dried by the November winds, formed useful -material for the insurgent armies. The torch once applied to this vast -tinder box, with the prevailing easterly winds, all Matanzas was aflame. -Under cover of the great canopy of smoke which rose over the land, the -invading armies of the Occident swept rapidly on through the Province, -fighting only when compelled to, since the object of the invasion was to -carry the war into Havana and Pinar del Rio, where Revolution had never -before been known.</p> - -<p>The vast cane fields that today line the railroad tracks on both sides, -bear no evidence of the ravages of Revolution, while handsome modern -mills, many of which have<a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a> been erected since the beginning of the great -European War of 1914, have helped to feed the world with sugar that -could be obtained in sufficient quantities in no other place.<a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII<br /><br /> -PROVINCE OF SANTA CLARA</h2> - -<p>P<small>ROBABLY</small> in no part of Cuba is the topography more varied or the scenery -more beautiful than in the Province of Santa Clara, with its area of -8,250 square miles. Mountain, valley, table land and plain seem to be -thrown together in this, the central section of the Island, in reckless -yet picturesque confusion. The main system of mountains, extending -throughout the entire length of Cuba, disappears and reappears along the -northern coast of Santa Clara, thus permitting easy communication -between her rich central plains, covered with sugar estates, and her -harbors on the coast.</p> - -<p>In the southwestern center of this province, we have another group of -mountains, foot hills and fertile valleys, in which are located some of -the old coffee estates of slavery days, established at the close of the -18th century, shortly after the negro uprising in Santo Domingo. These -cafetales, in the early half of the following century, made Cuban coffee -famous throughout the world. Nestling within this mountain cradle lies -the city of Trinidad, founded by Diego Velasquez in January, 1514. The -presence of gold, which the Indians panned from the waters of the Arimo -River, rendered Trinidad an important center for the early Spanish -conquerors during the first years of Cuban history. Sancti Spiritus, -lying on the edge of a fertile plateau, some forty-five miles to the -northeast, was founded a few months later.</p> - -<p>Gold was the god of the Spanish conquerors, and to secure it was their -chief aim and ambition. Its discovery in this section of Santa Clara -brought hope to<a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a> them and despair to the Indians, on whom the former -depended for labor with which to dig this precious metal from the earth. -Velasquez found the natives of Trinidad, like those of Oriente, a -gentle, confiding people, who asked only permission to live as they had -always done; tilling the soil, fishing, visiting and dancing, at which -they were most clever, an ideal and harmless life, suited to their -tastes. They grew corn, sweet potatoes, tobacco and yucca, from which -they made their cazaba bread, still used by the country people of the -present day. The Spaniards, however, soon changed this earthly dream of -ease and joy into one of arduous and repugnant toil, rather than to -submit to which, many of them committed suicide by poison and by -drowning.</p> - -<p>Velasquez, enthusiastic over the locality of his newly founded city, -Trinidad, despatched at once one of his caravels to La Espanola in Santo -Domingo, with orders to bring back cattle, mares and other material -necessary to further the interests of the new settlement. And so it came -to pass that this section of southern Santa Clara, with its fertile -lands, beautiful scenery and promise of gold, played an important part -in the early colonization of the Island.</p> - -<p>The desire to accumulate wealth through the toil of the unhappy Indians, -of whom the Spaniards made slaves, tempted even Las Casas, the great -defender of the Cuban aborigines, to accept assignment of them as a gift -from the crown, so that he might share something of the prosperity of -the early conquerors. It is reported that Las Casas repented this -departure from the path of rectitude and afterwards was led to indorse -the importation of African slaves in order to save the Cuban Indians -from extermination.</p> - -<p>It was on the banks of the beautiful Arimo, some twenty-five miles east -of Trinidad, that this celebrated old historian and defender of the -faith maintained his ranch and other worldly possessions. Throughout the -sixteenth century this section of Santa Clara was an<a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a> important station -on the line of travel between Santiago de Cuba and Havana.</p> - -<p>Caravels leaving “Tierra Firme,” or the great continent of South -America, that had been discovered, frequently made this shore, on the -other side of the Caribbean, or were driven against it by storms, the -crews afterwards reaching Santiago de Cuba by travel overland, along the -south coast. Owing probably to the fact that all of this coast, from the -mouth of the Zaza River east to the Cauto, is low, covered with dense -jungle, reports reached Spain to the effect that the most of Cuba was a -swamp, which is far from the truth, since by far the greatest portion of -the Island is rolling and mountainous.</p> - -<p>More than half of Santa Clara is hilly and broken, although owing to the -fertility of the soil this interferes but little with the agricultural -development of the Province.</p> - -<p>The mountains of Santa Clara form the central zone of the great volcanic -upheaval that raised Cuba from the depths of the Caribbean. A broad belt -or double chain lies between the city of Santa Clara and Sancti -Spiritus. Another ridge, just south of the latter city, extends from the -Tunas de Zaza railroad to a point east of the Manatee River, near the -harbor of Cienfuegos. A second group lies between the valleys of the -rivers Arimao and Agabama, names taken from the original appellations -given them by the Indians.</p> - -<p>The highest peak of this central region, called Potrerillo, is located -some seven miles north of Trinidad and reaches an altitude of about -3,000 feet. The mountains of this group extend northwest as far as the -Manicaragua Valley. A third group, lying southeast of the city of Santa -Clara, includes the Sierra del Escambray and the Sierra de Agabama. The -average altitude of these latter hills is only about a thousand feet.</p> - -<p>Another range of hills begins at a point on the north coast of the -Province, twenty-five miles east of Sagua la<a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a> Orande, and runs parallel -with the north shore of the Island into the Province of Camaguey, in the -western edge of which it disappears in the great level prairies of that -region. The highest peaks of this group are the Sierra Morena, west of -Sagua la Grande, and the Lomas de Santa Fe, near Camajuani. A little -further east they are known as the Lomas de Las Sabanas.</p> - -<p>With the exception of the northern coast range, the other ranges of -Santa Clara have resulted from seismic forces, working apparently at -right angles to the main line of upheaval, leaving the tangled mass of -hills and valleys characteristic of this great central zone of the -Province. What is known as the schistose or pre-cretaceous limestones of -Trinidad, are supposed to be the oldest geological formations in the -Island of Cuba.</p> - -<p>From the foot of the Sierra de Morena, near the north coast, a wide, -comparatively level plain sweeps across the province to the Caribbean -Sea, broken only at a few points by one or two abrupt hills, northeast -of Cienfuegos. Lying between the northern chain of mountains and the -coast, we find quite a broad area of rich level land washed by the salt -water lagoons of the north shore.</p> - -<p>Again, in the extreme southeast corner of Santa Clara, is found another -large tract comprising perhaps a thousand square miles, located between -the Zaza and the two Jatabonico rivers that form the boundary between -the province and Camaguey.</p> - -<p>Between the various chains of mountains and hills that cut the province -of Santa Clara into hundreds of parks and valleys, are exceptionally -rich lands, sufficiently level for cultivation. The Manicaragua Valley, -sloping towards the eastern edge of the Bay of Cienfuegos, is noted for -an excellent quality of tobacco grown in that region.</p> - -<p>Of navigable rivers, owing to the short plains between the various -divides and the coast line, there are practically none in Santa Clara, -although many of the streams have considerable length, and are utilized -for floating<a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a> logs to the coast during the rainy season. The Arimao, -with its falls, known as the Habanillo, is a picturesque and beautiful -stream, rising in the mountains of the southern central zone and flowing -in a westerly direction, until it empties into the Bay of Cienfuegos.</p> - -<p>The Canao, another small stream with its source near the city of Santa -Clara, takes a southwesterly course and empties into the same bay. The -Damiji flows south to and into Cienfuegos Harbor. The Hanabana rises in -the northwestern extremity of the province, and, flowing south and west, -forms much of its western boundary until it empties into a little lake a -few miles north of the Bay of Cochinos, known as El Tesoro or Treasure -Lake. From this a continuation of the river known as the Gonzalo runs -due west throughout the entire length of the Cienaga de Zapata until it -empties into Broa Bay, an eastern extension of the Gulf of Batabano.</p> - -<p>The Manatee River is a small stream with its origin in the center of the -nest of mountains that lie north of Trinidad; it flows south until it -empties into the Caribbean, midway between the ports of Casilda and -Tunas de Zaza. The Zaza River has its origin in a number of tributary -streams in the northeast corner of the Province, whence it wanders -through many twists and turns between hills and ridges until it finally -passes into the level lands of the southwest corner of the Province, -whence it eventually finds its way to the Caribbean. This stream, -although troubled with bars just beyond its mouth, has a considerable -depth for some twenty or more miles.</p> - -<p>The most important river commercially in this Province, known as the -Sagua, rises a little west of the capital, Santa Clara, and flows in a -northerly direction until it empties into the Bay across from the Sagua -Light on the north coast. The city of Sagua la Grande, a small but -aristocratic place, is located about twenty miles from the mouth of the -river, and is the distributing point for<a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a> that section of the province. -The river is navigable for small boats from the port of Isabella to the -city above. Another small stream, known as the Sagua la Chica, empties -into the Bay, about midway between La Isabella and the port of -Caibarien.</p> - -<p>The southern coast of the province of Santa Clara, not including the -indentations of gulfs and bays, is approximately two hundred and fifty -miles long. This, of course, includes the great western extension of the -Zapata peninsula, whose shore line alone is one hundred miles in length. -The northern shore, bordering on the great lagoon that separates it from -the Atlantic, measures one hundred and fifty miles, forming thus for the -province an irregular parallelogram whose average width north to south -is about seventy-five miles.</p> - -<p>In the center of the south coast we find the harbor of Cienfuegos, a -beautiful, perfectly land-locked, deep water bay, dotted with islands, -from whose eastern shores tall mountains loom up on the near horizon in -majestic beauty. One of the picturesque old forts of the early -eighteenth century on the west bank of the channel guards the approach -to the entrance of the harbor. Some ten miles back, located on a gently -sloping rise of ground, is the city of Cienfuegos, which next to -Santiago de Cuba is the most important shipping port on the southern -coast.</p> - -<p>As far as definitely known, this port was first entered by the old -Spanish conqueror Ocampo, in 1508. No definite settlement was made -however, until 1819, when refugees from the insurrection of Santo -Domingo established a colony, from which rose the present city of -Cienfuegos. These involuntary immigrants from Santo Domingo were coffee -growers in their own country, and from their efforts splendid coffee -plantations were soon located in the rich valleys and on the mountain -sides that lay off towards the northeast. Large groves of coffee, -struggling under the dense forest shade, still survive in<a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a> these -mountains, from which the natives of the district bring out on mule back -large crops of excellent coffee that have been grown under difficulties.</p> - -<p>The city of Cienfuegos, or a Hundred Fires, is substantially built of -stone and brick, with wide streets, radiating from a large central -plaza, as in all Spanish cities the favorite meeting place where people -discuss the topics of the day, and listen to the evening concerts of the -municipal band. There are several social clubs in Cienfuegos and a very -good theatre, together with the city hall and hospital, which are -creditable to the community. The population is estimated at 36,000.</p> - -<p>Sancti Spiritus is one of the seven cities founded by Diego Velasquez in -1514, and still bears every evidence of its antiquity. Its streets are -crooked and but little has been done to bring the city into line with -modern progress. This is owing largely to the fact of its being located -twenty-five miles back from the southern coast, and some ten miles off -the main railroad line, connecting the eastern and western sections of -the Island. It lies on the edge of the plateau, east of the mountain -group of southern Santa Clara. An old, tall-towered church still bears -the date of its founding by Velasquez. The city has a population of -approximately 15,000.</p> - -<p>Santa Clara, the capital, is located almost in the center of the -province, well above the sea level. Its wide, well kept streets are -suggestive of health and prosperity. It was founded in 1689, and until -1900 was the eastern terminus of the main railroad line running east -from Havana. Rich fertile lands surround Santa Clara, while the mining -interests a little to the south, although not at present developed, give -every promise of future importance. Copper ore of excellent quality has -been found in a number of places between Santa Clara and Trinidad, while -silver, zinc and gold are found in the same zone, but up to the present -not in quantities that would justify the investment of capital in their -development. Ten thousand tons of asphalt are mined annually<a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a> not far -from the city, and considerable tobacco is grown in the surrounding -country. The population is estimated at 15,000.</p> - -<p>Sagua la Grande is located on the Sagua River, twenty miles up from the -port of La Isabella. It is a comparatively modern city, with wide -streets, and is the distributing point for the large sugar estates of -that section. Its population is 12,000.</p> - -<p>The Port of Caibarien has grown into considerable importance owing to -the large amount of sugar brought in by the different railroads, for -storage in the big stone warehouses that line the wharf. Shoal water -necessitates lightering out some fifteen miles to a splendid anchorage -under the lee of Cayo Frances, on the outer edge of the great salt water -lagoon which envelops the entire north coast of Santa Clara. The -population is 7,000.</p> - -<p>Five miles west, on the line between Caibarien and Santa Clara, is the -little old city of Remedios, that once occupied a place on the coast, -but was compelled by the unfriendly visits of pirates, as were many -other cities in Cuba in the olden days, to move back from the sea shore, -so that the inhabitants could be warned of an approaching enemy. Around -Remedios, large fields of tobacco furnish the chief source of income to -this city of six or seven thousand people.</p> - -<p>The great “Cienaga de Zapata,” or Swamp of the Shoe, so called on -account of its strange resemblance to a heeled moccasin, although -geographically a part of the Province of Matanzas, has nevertheless -always been included in the boundaries of Santa Clara. Its length from -east to west is about sixty-five miles, with an average width from north -to south of twenty. Many plans, at different times since the first -Government of Intervention, have been formed for the drainage and -reclaiming of this great swamp of the Caribbean, whose area is -approximately twelve hundred square miles.</p> - -<p>Nearly all of the surface is covered with hard wood timber, growing in a -vast expanse of water, varying in<a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a> depth from one to three feet. Owing -to its lack of incline in any direction, reclamation of this isolated -territory is not easy, although the land, after the timber was removed -and the water once disposed of, would probably be very valuable.</p> - -<p>Enormous deposits of peat and black vegetable muck, cover the western -shores of this peninsula and will, when utilized for either fuel, -fertilizer or gas production, be an important source of revenue, as will -its forests of hard wood, when transportation to the coast is rendered -possible.</p> - -<p>Just east of the heel of the “Zapata” and some forty miles west of the -harbor of Cienfuegos, a deep, open, wide-mouthed roadstead projects from -the Caribbean some eighteen miles into the land, almost connecting with -the little lake known as “El Tesero” or Treasure, located at the most -southerly point of the Province of Matanzas. This roadstead, known as -the Bay of Cochinos, furnishes shelter from all winds excepting those -from the south, against which there is no protection, although abutments -thrown out from the shore might give artificial shelter, and thus render -it a fairly safe harbor.</p> - -<p>Quite a large forest of valuable woods lies a few miles back from the -coast, between Cochinos Bay and the harbor of Cienfuegos. The broken -surface of the dog teeth rocks, however, upon which this forest stands, -renders the removal of logs difficult and dangerous, since iron shoes -will not protect the feet of draft animals used in the transport of wood -to the coast. A narrow strip of very good vegetable land, running only a -mile or so back from the beach, extends along this section of the coast -for about twenty-five miles, awaiting the intelligent efforts of some -future gardener to produce potatoes and other vegetables on a large -scale for spring shipments to Cienfuegos.</p> - -<p>The great source of wealth of the Province of Santa Clara, of course, is -sugar, and to that industry nearly all of her industrial energies are at -present devoted.<a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a> Seventy great sugar estates, with modern mills, are -located within the Province, yielding an annual production of -approximately eight million sacks of sugar, each weighing 225 pounds. -The fertility of Santa Clara soil has never been exhausted, and the -great network of railroads covering the Province furnishes easy -transportation to the harbors of Cienfuegos, Sagua and Caibarien. -Considerable amounts of sugar are also shipped from Casilda, the port of -Trinidad on the south coast, and some from Tunas de Zaza, at the mouth -of the Zaza River, thirty miles further east. The sugar produced in the -Province in 1918 was valued at eighty million dollars.</p> - -<p>The tobacco of Santa Clara Province, although not of the standard -quality obtained in the western provinces of Pinar del Rio and Havana, -still forms a very important industry. That coming from the Manicaragua -Valley, northeast of Cienfuegos, has obtained a good reputation for its -excellent flavor.</p> - -<p>Coffee culture in the mountains and valleys lying between Trinidad and -Sancti Spiritus, introduced by French refugees from the Island of Santo -Domingo the first years of the last century, was at one time a very -important industry. With the introduction of machinery for hulling and -polishing the beans, and with better facilities for the removal of the -crop to the coast, there is every reason to believe that this industry, -in the near future, will resume some of the importance which it enjoyed -half a century ago, or before the abolition of slavery rendered picking -the berries expensive, since this work can be done only by hand. The -growing of coffee offers a delightful and profitable occupation to large -families, since the work of gathering and caring for the berries is a -very pleasant occupation for women and children.</p> - -<p>Owing to the fertility of the soil of Santa Clara, the abundance of -shade, rich grass, and plentiful streams of clear running water flowing -from the mountains, there is<a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a> perhaps no section of Cuba that offers -greater inducement to the stock raiser.</p> - -<p>The breeding of fine horses, of high-grade hogs, of angora goats, sheep -and milch cows, will undoubtedly, when the attention of capital is -called to the natural advantages of this section of the country, rival -even the sugar industry of the Province. In no part of the world could -moderate sized herds of fine animals be better cared for than on the -high table lands and rich valleys of Santa Clara.</p> - -<p>Santa Clara bore its part in the trials and sufferings endured by the -patriots of Cuba in the War of Independence. The range of mountains -between Sancti Spiritus and Trinidad, during those four fearful years, -furnished a safe retreat for the Cuban forces, when the soldiers of -Spain, abundantly supplied with ammunition, which their opponents never -enjoyed, pressed them too hard. It was in these dense forests and rocky -recesses which Nature had provided that the great old chieftain, General -Maximo Gomez, in the last years of the war, defied the forces of Spain.<a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII<br /><br /> -PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY</h2> - -<p>A<small>CCORDING</small> to the log of the <i>Santa Maria</i>, the first glimpse of the -Island of Cuba enjoyed by Christopher Columbus, sailing as he did in a -southwesterly course across the Bahama Banks, is supposed by many to -have been at some point along the northern coast of what is now known as -the Province of Camaguey. The area of this Province, including Cayos -Romano, Guajaba, Sabinal and Coco, is approximately 11,000 square miles. -The general trend of the coast lines is similar to those of the Province -of Santa Clara, and the length of each is approximately one hundred and -seventy-five miles. The average width of the province is eighty miles, -although between the southern extension of Santa Cruz del Sur and the -mouth of the harbor of Nuevitas, we have a hundred miles.</p> - -<p>The same gentle graceful inoffensive natives were found in this section -of Cuba as those who first received the Spanish conquerors at Baracoa -and other places in the Island. Those of the great plains belonging to -this province were known as Camagueyanos, and although for many years -Spain called this section of the island Puerto Principe, the musical -Indian term stuck, and with the inauguration of the Republic in 1901, -the name of Camaguey was officially given to this part of Cuba.</p> - -<p>In the year 1515, Diego Velasquez, with his fever for founding cities, -established a colony on the shore of the Bay of Nuevitas, and christened -it Puerto Principe. In those early days, however, there was no rest for -the unprotected, hence the first settlement was moved in a short time to -another locality not definitely known, but<a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a> a year later the city was -permanently established in the center of the province, about fifty miles -from either shore, where it remains today, with many features of its -antiquity still in evidence.</p> - -<p>The first of the old Spanish adventurers who succeeded in making himself -both famous and rich without flagrant trespass of law, was Vasco -Porcallo de Figueroa, one of the original settlers whom Velasquez left -in the City of Puerto Principe founded in 1515. This sturdy old pioneer -did not bother with gold mining, but succeeded in securing large grants -of land in the fertile plains of Camaguey, where he raised great herds -of cattle and horses, exercising at the same time a decidedly despotic -influence over the natives and everyone else in that region.</p> - -<p>Vasco, although spending more than half of the year in the cities of -Puerto Principe and Sancti Spiritus, had a retreat of his own, probably -some place in the Sierra de Cubitas, where he held princely sway and -guarded his wealth from intrusive buccaneers and other ambitious -adventurers of those times. It was he who, meeting Hernando de Soto on -his arrival at Santiago de Cuba, escorted that famous explorer across -the beautiful rolling country of Camaguey, which he seemed to consider -as his own special domain, and finally accepted the position of second -in command in that unfortunate expedition of De Soto into the Peninsula -of Florida in 1539. Fighting the savage Seminoles was not however to his -taste, and the old man returned to Havana inside of a year, mounted his -horse and rode home, firmly convinced, he said, that Camaguey was the -only country for a white man to live and die in.</p> - -<p>Even with the removal of the capital far into the interior, the -peacefully inclined citizens were not free from molestation and -unwelcome visits. During the middle of the seventeenth century, the -famous English corsair, Henry Morgan, afterwards Governor of Jamaica, -paid his respects to several Cuban cities, including Puerto<a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a> Principe. -In 1668 he crossed the Caribbean with twelve boats and seven hundred -English followers, intending to attack Havana. He afterward changed his -mind, however, and landing in the Bay of Santa Maria began his march on -the capital of Camaguey.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants made a desperate resistance, the Mayor and many of his -followers being killed, but the town was finally compelled to surrender -and submit to being sacked, during which process many women and children -were burned to death in a church behind whose barred doors they had -taken refuge. Morgan finally retired from Puerto Principe with his booty -of $50,000 and five hundred head of cattle.</p> - -<p>During the Ten Years’ War the province of Camaguey became the center of -active military operations. The inhabitants of this section had -descended from the best families of Spain, who had emigrated from the -Mother Country centuries before. They were men of refinement and -education, men whose prosperity and contact with the outside world had -made life impossible under the oppressive laws of the Spanish monarchy.</p> - -<p>Ignacio Agramonte, a scion of one of the best known families of -Camaguey, was a born leader of men, and soon found himself in command of -the Cuban forces. The struggle was an ill advised one, because the odds -in numbers were too great, and the resources of the Cubans were so -limited that success was impossible. The effort of General Agramonte and -his followers, all men of note and social standing, was a brave one, and -the sacrifice of the women, the mothers, sisters and daughters, of that -period, were not surpassed by any country in its fight for liberty.</p> - -<p>But the unfortunate death of General Agramonte, and the long uphill -struggle, brought about the inevitable. The treaty of Zanjon in 1878 was -ultimately forced upon the revolutionists, many of whom afterwards -emigrated with their families to the United States, where some have -remained as permanent citizens of that Republic<a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>; among others, Doctor -Enrique Agramonte, a brother of Ignacio, who after fighting through the -ten tiresome years, left his country, never to return.</p> - -<p>In the more recent struggles for Cuban liberty, known as the War of -Independence, Camaguey again took a prominent part and General Maximo -Gomez, who had succeeded Agramonte at his death, and General Antonio -Maceo, had the satisfaction of carrying the campaign of the Occident, -from Oriente, across Camaguey, where they defeated the Spanish forces in -several battles, and in the winter of 1896 led their victorious troops -in three parallel invading columns, to the extreme western end of the -Island. Thus the revolution was carried for the first time in history -beyond the Jucaro and Moron Trocha, or fortified ditch, near the western -border of Camaguey.</p> - -<p>Narrow crooked streets still prevail in some parts of Camaguey and the -erection of modern buildings, that has become so common in Havana, has -not reached this quiet old municipality of the plains which still lives -and breathes an atmosphere smacking of centuries past.</p> - -<p>Topographically, although the surface of Camaguey, in altitude and -contour, varies much, it is, as a whole, far more level than any other -province in the Island. Great fertile savannas and grass covered plains -predominate in almost every part. The potreros, or grazing lands, of -Camaguey, have made it famous as the breeding place par excellence for -horses and cattle, and its equal is not found anywhere in the West -Indies.</p> - -<p>In spite of the comparatively level nature of the country, with the -exception of the low, heavily covered forest belt that sweeps along the -entire southern coast, extending back from ten to twenty-five miles, the -rest of the province partakes more of the character of an elevated -plateau, interspersed with low ranges of mountains and foothills, which -give pleasing diversity to the general aspect of the country.</p> - -<p>The longest range in Camaguey is a continuation of<a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a> the great central -chain, that follows the trend of the Island. It begins with a prominent -peak known as the Loma Cunagua, which rises abruptly from the low level -savannas ten miles east of the town of Moron in the northwestern corner -of the Province. A little further southeast, the range again appears and -finally develops into the Sierra de Cubitas, which follows the direction -of the north coast, terminating finally in the picturesque peak of -Tubaque, on the Maximo River.</p> - -<p>A small stream, known as the Rio Yaguey, sweeps west along the southern -edge of this ridge and finally breaks through its western end, emptying -into the lagoon or Bay of Cayo Romano. A parallel range of lower hills, -with various spurs, lies a little south of the main Sierra de Cubitas. -The bountifully watered prairies, valleys and parks south and west of -these hills form the ideal grazing ground of the Pearl of the Antilles. -Several large herds of fine hogs and cattle, recently established in -this section, will soon play an important part in the meat supply of -Cuba.</p> - -<p>As in Santa Clara, an independent group, or nest, of low peaks and -beautiful forest covered hills, occupies the southeastern center of the -Province of Camaguey. The lands in this section are very fertile and the -delightful variety of hill, valley and plain renders it a very -attractive country in which to make one’s permanent home. Several -elevations of moderate altitude, known as lomas, rise from the more -level country, a little to the north of the above mentioned district, -and form something of a connecting link between the Najasa, or mountains -of the southwest, and the Sierra de Cubitas of the north shore.</p> - -<p>As before mentioned, several chains of the north coast, originating in -Santa Clara, sweep over and terminate in Camaguey, some ten or fifteen -miles east of the boundary line. The mountains of this district, owing -to the fact that they were distant from the coast, have never been -denuded of their virgin forests, and with the opening of the Cuba -Railroad, connecting Santa Clara with Santiago<a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a> de Cuba on the south -coast, and the Bay of Nipe on the north, a considerable quantity of -valuable timber has been taken out within recent years.</p> - -<p>Camaguey has no rivers of importance, although numerous streams flowing -from the central plateaus, toward both the northern and southern coast, -are utilized during the rainy season to float logs to shipping points. -These short streams, varying from ten to thirty miles in length, each -form basins or valleys of rich grass lands that are always in demand for -stock raising. Between the Jatobonico del Sur, which forms a part of the -western boundary of the Province, and the Rio Jobobo, which forms the -southeastern boundary, are more than a dozen streams emptying into the -Caribbean. Among these are Los Guiros, the Altamiro, the Najasa and the -Sevilla.</p> - -<p>The Najasa has its origin a little south of the City of Camaguey, and -passes through a heavily timbered country, carrying many logs to the -landing of Santa Cruz del Sur. A railroad was surveyed from the latter -city to the capital some years ago, but has never been completed.</p> - -<p>On the north coast, between the Jatibonico del Norte, which forms the -northwestern boundary, and the Puentes Grandes, forming the -northeastern, we have some ten or a dozen short streams, among the most -important of which are the Rio de los Perros, emptying into the Lagoon -of Turaguanao; the Rio Caonao emptying into the lagoon of Romano; the -Jiguey, cutting through the western extremity of the Sierra de Cubitas -and emptying into the eastern end of the above mentioned lake; the Rio -Maximo, rising on the south side of the chain, sweeping around its -eastern end and emptying into the Bay of Sabinal; and the Saramaguacan, -one of the longest in the province, rising in the mountains of the -Najasa, whence it flows in a northeasterly direction and empties into -the harbor of Nuevitas. Both the Chambas and the Rio Caonao, when not -obstructed by mud bars at their<a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a> mouths, are navigable for light draft -schooners and sloops, for some twelve or fifteen miles into the -interior.</p> - -<p>At no point on the south Coast of Camaguey can be found any harbor -worthy of the name, although at Jucaro, Santa Cruz del Sur and Romero, -considerable timber and sugar are shipped from piers that extend out -into the shallow waters of the Jucaro and Guacanabo gulfs.</p> - -<p>The long system of salt water bays or lagoons, beginning at Punta Hicaco -in Matanzas, continues along the entire north coast of Camaguey and -terminates in the beautiful harbor of Nuevitas. The lagoons of Camaguey -are formed by a series of keys or islands, of which Cayo Romano, -seventy-five miles in length, with an average width of ten miles, is the -most important.</p> - -<p>Although most of the area of this island is covered with a dense jungle -of low trees, the eastern end rises to quite a high promontory, with -more or less arable land, planted at the present time in henequen, and -yielding a very good revenue to the owner. An unknown number of wild -ponies, variously estimated at from six hundred to two thousand, inhabit -the jungles of Cayo Romano, living largely on the leaves of the forest, -and consequently degenerating in size and form to such an extent that -they have a very little commercial value.</p> - -<p>Cayo Coco, really an extension of Romano, reaches out to the westward -some fifteen miles further, while the Island of Guajaba, separated by a -narrow pass with only three feet of water, incloses the beautiful harbor -of Guanaja. Sabinal, some 25 miles in length by ten or twelve in width, -forms the northern shore of the harbor of Nuevitas. On the latter key -there is fairly good grazing ground and much territory that eventually -will probably be planted in henequen, as is the promontory of Nuevitas, -just north of the city of that name.</p> - -<p>These salt water lakes or bays are often twenty-five miles or more in -length by ten wide and with an average depth of fifteen feet. -Unfortunately, not only are they<a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a> separated by narrow passes seldom -carrying over three feet, but exit to the ocean for any craft drawing -over five or six feet is very difficult to find.</p> - -<p>The harbor of Nuevitas, in the northwestern corner of the Province, is -one of the finest in the Island. Its width varies from three to ten -miles, while its length is approximately twenty, carrying excellent deep -water anchorage throughout almost its entire extent. A peculiar -river-like opening, six miles in length, deep and narrow, connects it -with the Atlantic Ocean.</p> - -<p>In proportion to its size, the province of Camaguey has less railroad -mileage than any other in the Island. Until 1902, when Sir William Van -Horn, late President of the Cuba Company, connected the City of Santa -Clara by rail with Santiago de Cuba, there were but two railroads in -that section of the country. One, the Camaguey & Nuevitas Road, -connected the capital with practically the only shipping point on the -north coast. Another, built many years before, for military purposes, -connected the town of San Ferrando, on the north coast, with Jucaro on -the south coast, and ran parallel with what was known as the Trocha, a -military ditch about eighty kilometers in length, with two story -concrete forts at each kilometer, and low dug-outs, or shooting boxes, -located midway between the principal forts. The ground was cleared on -either side of the railroad for a kilometer, while on both sides a -perfect network of barbed wire, fastened by staples to the top of wood -stakes, rendered it difficult for either infantry or cavalry to cross -from one side to the other. This modern military device was established -by the Spanish forces in 1895, so as to prevent the Cubans from carrying -the revolution into Santa Clara and the western provinces.</p> - -<p>As in the other provinces of Cuba, cane growing and the making of sugar -forms the chief industry, although, owing to the wonderfully rich -potreros, or grazing lands of Camaguey, the raising of live stock in the -near future<a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a> will doubtless rival all other sources of wealth in that -section.</p> - -<p>There are twenty sugar mills in the province with a production of -approximately 3,000,000 bags. The two mills at Las Minas and Redencion, -between Camaguey and Nuevitas, have been in operation for many years, -but with the opening up of the Van Horn railroad a new impetus was given -to sugar production, and during the past ten years, some eighteen new -mills have been established at various points along the railroad where -lands were fertile and comparatively cheap.</p> - -<p>A line known as the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, connecting the city of -Nuevitas with Caibarien, in Santa Clara Province, some 200 miles west, -was surveyed and capital for it was promised, in 1914. The breaking out -of the European war delayed work on the road, but its completion can be -assured in the near future.</p> - -<p>Several large sugar estates have been located along the line that will -open up a territory rich in soil and natural resources. Important iron -mines, too, in the foothills of the Sierra de Cubitas, are waiting only -this transportation to add an important revenue to the Province. A great -deal of valuable timber will be available when the line is in operation.</p> - -<p>Owing to the large beds of valuable ore belonging to the mineral zone of -the Cubitas, it is quite probable that the mining industry will some day -rank next to that of general farming in Camaguey, although as far as -natural advantages are concerned, there is no industry which in the end -can rival that of stock raising.</p> - -<p>During 1895, the first year of the War of Independence, over a million -head of sleek, fat cattle were registered in the Province of Camaguey, -where the grasses are so rich that an average of seventy head can be -kept in condition throughout the year on a hundred acres of land. The -two grasses commonly found in Camaguey were both brought from abroad. Of -these, the Guinea,<a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a> imported from western Africa, grows luxuriantly on -all the plateaus and higher lands of the province, while the Parana, a -long running grass from the Argentine, does best in the lower lands and -savannas. One stock man of Camaguey at least, has succeeded in producing -splendid fields of alfalfa, from which seven or eight cuttings are taken -each year.</p> - -<p>Fruits of all kinds, especially oranges and pineapples, grow luxuriantly -in this Province, but owing to the lack of transportation, the railroad -haul to Havana being practically prohibitory, shipments of fruit and -vegetables to the northern markets are confined almost entirely to a -steamer which leaves the harbor of Nuevitas once every two weeks.</p> - -<p>Owing perhaps to the rich and comparatively cheap lands offered by the -Province of Camaguey, more Americans are said to have settled in this -section than in any other part of Cuba. The first colony, called La -Gloria, was located in 1900 on the beautiful bay of Guanaja or Turkey -Bay, some five or six miles back from the shore. The location, although -healthful and in a productive country, was most unfortunate as far as -transportation facilities were concerned. Two hundred or more families -made clearings in the forests of the Cubitas, and there made for -themselves homes under adverse circumstances. The worst of these was the -isolation of the spot, and lack of communication with any city or town -nearer than Camaguey, some forty-five miles southwest, or Nuevitas, -forty miles east; without railroads, wagon roads, or even water -communication by vessels drawing over seven feet.</p> - -<p>The Zanja, or ditch, some three miles in length, connecting the harbor -of Nuevitas with Guanaja Bay, was recently dredged to a depth of three -or four feet, so that launches can now pass from La Gloria to Nuevitas, -but aside from the fertility of the soil, there was but little to -commend La Gloria as a place of permanent residence. Only grit and -perseverance on the part of sturdy Americans<a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a> has sustained them during -the past sixteen years. But they concluded to make the best of the -situation in which they found themselves, and are producing nearly -everything needed for their subsistence. A considerable amount also of -farm produce and fruit will soon be shipped to northern markets from the -harbor of Nuevitas. A very creditable agricultural fair is held in La -Gloria each winter, and the contents of the weekly paper seems to bear -every evidence of progress and content. In spite of adverse conditions, -the people of La Gloria have prospered and enjoy there many comforts not -found in colder climates, and with the opening up of the North Shore -Road, this really attractive section of country, which includes several -smaller colonies scattered along the water front, will be brought in -close touch once more with the civilization of the outside world.</p> - -<p>Another colony, also unfortunate in its location, was established at -Ceballos on the Jucaro and Moron railroad, about eight miles north of -its junction with the Cuba Company road at Ciego de Avila. The soil was -well adapted to the growth of citrus fruit, and large groves were laid -out by Americans, some ten or twelve years ago, along the line of the -old clearing that bordered the Trocha. The groves, as far as nature -could provide, were successful, but the excessive freight rates between -Ceballos and either the city of Havana or the Bay of Nipe, have proved -discouraging to the original settlers.</p> - -<p>Several smaller colonies have been located along the Cuba Company’s -railway and the line connecting the city of Camaguey with Nuevitas, but -again the long distance between these points and large markets, either -local or foreign, have worked to the disadvantage of the growers. If -stock raising instead of fruit growing had occupied the time and -attention of these American pioneers, more satisfactory results would -have been obtained.</p> - -<p>Nuevitas, located on the southern shore of the harbor of that name, is a -modern city with wide streets and<a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a> a population of approximately 7,000 -people. Its location, at the terminus of the Camaguey Railroad, and on -the only harbor of the north coast, renders it a place of considerable -commercial importance, since large quantities of sugar, lumber and -livestock leave the port during the year, while coasting steamers of -local lines touch every few days.</p> - -<p>Camaguey, the capital of the Province, so long known as Puerto Principe, -has a population of about 45,000 people. The natives of this city have -long enjoyed and merited an enviable reputation for integrity, -intelligence and social standing, traits that were inherited from a -number of excellent families who came to Cuba from Southern Spain in the -early colonial days. The rich grazing lands of Camaguey and the -salubrious climate, not only of the north coast, but of the great -plateaus of the interior, were very attractive to the better class of -pioneers who came over in the sixteenth century in search of peace, -permanent homes and wealth based on legitimate industry.</p> - -<p>There is no section of the Island more highly esteemed for the integrity -of its people than that of the isolated, aristocratic city of Camaguey, -such as the families of Agramonte, Betancourt, Cisneros, Luaces, -Sanchez, Quesada and Varona. Nearly all these families through the long -painful Ten Years’ War suffered privations, followed by exile and loss -of everything but pride, dignity and good names.</p> - -<p>Most of them made permanent homes in the United States, but many of -their children, educated in the land that gave their parents shelter, -have returned to their native country and occupied positions of trust -and responsibility in the new Republic.<a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX<br /><br /> -PROVINCE OF ORIENTE</h2> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> Province of Oriente, called by Spain Santiago de Cuba, forms the -eastern extremity of the Island, and is not only the largest in area, -but, owing to the exceptional fertility of its soil, the great number of -magnificent harbors, the size and extent of its plains and valleys, -together with the untold wealth of its mines of iron, copper, manganese, -chrome and other minerals, it must be considered industrially as one of -the most important provinces of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Its area consists of 14,213 square miles, its form is triangular, Cape -Maysi, the eastern terminus of the island, forming the apex of the -triangle, while the base, with a length of about one hundred miles, -extends from Cabo Cruz along the Manzanillo coast to the north shore. -One side of the triangle, formed by the south coast, has a length of -nearly 250 miles, while another, without counting the convolutions of -the sea coast, borders for two hundred miles on the Atlantic.</p> - -<p>Mountain chains follow both the north and south shores of Oriente, while -about one-third of its area, which composes the eastern section, is a -great tangle or nest of irregular mountains, flat top domes, plateaus, -and foothills, with their intervening basins, parks and valleys.</p> - -<p>While the main chain, or mountainous vertebrae, seems to disappear in -the Sierra de Cubitas of Camaguey, it reappears again, just west of the -Bay of Manati, in the extreme northern part of the province, and extends -along the north shore at broken intervals, until it finally melts into -that great eastern nest of volcanic upheavals that forms the eastern end -of the Island. From this north shore chain, innumerable spurs are thrown -off to the<a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a> southward between Manati and Nipe Bay, reaching sometimes -twenty-five or thirty miles back into the interior.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip084_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip084_sml.jpg" width="359" height="328" alt="A MOUNTAIN ROAD, ORIENTE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A MOUNTAIN ROAD, ORIENTE</span> -</p> - -<p>Along the southern shore of Oriente from Cabo Cruz to Cabo Maysi, -ascending at times abruptly from the beach, and at others dropping back -a little, we have the longest and tallest mountain range of Cuba. One -peak, known as Turquino, located midway between the city of Santiago de -Cuba and Cape Cruz, reaches an altitude of 8,642 feet.</p> - -<p>From the crest of this range, known as the Sierra Maestra, the great -network of spurs are thrown off to the north toward the valley of the -Cauto, while between these mountain offshoots several of the Cauto’s -most important tributaries, including the Cautill, Contraemaestre and -Brazos del Cauto, have their sources.</p> - -<p>Most of the mountainous districts are still covered<a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a> with dense tropical -forests that contain over three hundred varieties of hard woods, the -cost of transportation alone preventing their being cut and marketed.</p> - -<p>The interior of the Province, from the Mayari River west, is the largest -valley in Cuba, with a virgin soil marvellously rich through which runs -the Cauto River, emptying into the Caribbean Sea, a little north of the -City of Manzanillo. This stream, with its tributaries, forms the most -extensive waterway in the Island.</p> - -<p>A tributary on the north known as the Rio Salado, rising south of the -city of Holguin, flows in a westerly direction and empties into the -Cauto just above the landing of Guamo, some fifteen miles from the -Caribbean. Small streams empty into all of the numerous deep water gulfs -and bays that indent the north coast of Oriente. Each serves its purpose -in draining adjacent lands, but none, with the exception of the Mayari, -is navigable. This stream, the most important perhaps of the north -coast, rises in the eastern center of the Province, cutting its way west -along the base of the Crystal Mountains, until it reaches their western -end, whence it makes a sharp turn to the north, and after tumbling over -the falls, gradually descends and empties into Nipe Bay.</p> - -<p>The Sagua de Tanamo and its tributaries drain quite a large basin east -of the Mayari, and empty into the Gulf of Tanamo. The Moa, a short -stream, rises not far from the Tanamo but flows north to the ocean. The -Toa, flowing east, cuts through valleys for fifty miles, and finally -empties into the Atlantic thirty miles west of Cape Maysi.</p> - -<p>But little is known of this river; and like many of the streams which -for countless centuries have been cutting their tortuous ways through -the table lands and gorges of the eastern part of Oriente, its shores -have seldom been visited by human beings since the Siboney Indians, who -once made that section their home, gave up trying to be Christians and -took their chances of happiness on the other side of the “Great -Divide.<a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>”</p> - -<p>The Harbor of Puentes Grandes, that separates Oriente from Camaguey on -the north coast, is sufficiently deep for ordinary draft vessels, but -owing to sand spits and coral reefs that extend for some distance out -into the Atlantic, and to the fact that good harbors lie within a few -miles on either side, commerce up to the present has never sought this -place as a port of entry.</p> - -<p>About twelve miles east, however, we have the Bay of Manati with a -fairly easy entrance and an elbow-like channel that will give anchorage -to vessels drawing fathoms. On the shore of Manati Bay has been -established a very fine sugar mill surrounded by thousands of acres of -cane grown in the Yarigua Valley. Sugar is exported from this port -directly to the United States.</p> - -<p>Within the next twenty-five miles, east, are found two well protected -harbors, Malagueta and Puerto Padre. The latter is the deeper and more -important, owing to the large basin of fertile lands immediately -surrounding it. Puerto Padre has excellent anchorage and belongs to the -type of narrow mouthed bays so common to the north coast of Cuba.</p> - -<p>On the eastern shore of Puerto Padre are located two of the Cuban -American Sugar Company’s largest mills, “El Chaparra” and “Las -Delicias,” each with a capacity of 600,000 bags of sugar per year. These -two mills are considered, both in location and equipment, among the -finest in the world. The sugar, of course, is shipped directly from -Puerto Padre to New York, rendering them independent of railroad -transportation, and consequently large revenue producing properties.</p> - -<p>General Mario Menocal, General Manager of the Cuban American Company’s -mills, began his great industrial career at Chaparra, which he left to -assume the Presidency of the Republic in 1913. It is a very neat little -city, with wide avenues, comfortable homes, good schools and many of the -conveniences of much larger places. President Menocal visits Chaparra -several times during the grinding season each year.<a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a></p> - -<p>Some thirty-five miles east we have the large open roadstead of Jibara, -with sufficient depth of water to provide for shipping, but with very -little protection from northerly gales. On the western side of this -harbor is located the city of Jibara, which forms the shipping place for -the rich Holguin district, some thirty miles south.</p> - -<p>Some forty miles further east, around the bold Punta de Lucrecia, we -have another fine, deep-water, perfectly protected harbor, known as the -Bay of Banes, whose rich valleys lying to the south and west contribute -cane to the Ingenio Boston, belonging to the United Fruit Company, whose -output is approximately half a million bags of sugar per year.</p> - -<p>Southeast of Banes, about fifteen miles, we reach the entrance of the -Bay of Nipe, considered one of the finest and best protected harbors in -the world. Its entrance is sufficiently wide for ships to pass in or out -at ease, while the bay itself furnishes forty-seven miles of deep water -anchorage.</p> - -<p>Nipe Bay is a little round inland sea, measuring ten miles from north to -south by fifteen from east to west. The Mayari River flows into the bay -from the southern shore and furnishes, for light draft boats, -transportation to the city, some six miles up the river. On the north -shore of the bay is located the town of Antilla, terminus of the -northern extension of the Cuba Company’s lines, and one of the most -important shipping places on the north coast. On the Bay of Nipe is -located the Ingenio Preston, one of the finest sugar mills in Cuba, -contributing 371,000 bags in the year 1918 to the sugar stock of the -world.</p> - -<p>Some seven or eight miles east of the entrance of Nipe lies another -large, beautiful, land-locked bay, or rather two bays, separated by a -tongue of land extending into the entrance of the harbor and known as -Lavisa and Cabonico, both of which are deep, although the first -mentioned, with a length of eight miles and a width of<a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a> six, is the -larger of the two. The shores of both these harbors are covered with -magnificent hardwood forests, most of which have remained intact. The -lands surrounding them are rich, and will, within a very short time, -probably be converted into large sugar estates. These beautiful virgin -forests, with their marvellously fertile soil, surrounding the harbors -of Lavisa and Cabonico, might have been purchased ten years ago at -prices varying from eight to twelve dollars an acre. In 1918 they were -sold at fifty dollars per acre, and were easily worth twice that sum.</p> - -<p>Fifteen miles further east we have another fine deep-water harbor known -as Tanamo. Its entrance is comparatively easy, and although the bay is -very irregular in shape, the channel furnishes good anchorage for fairly -deep draft vessels. The Sagua de Tanamo River, whose tributaries drain -the rich valleys south of the bay, has its source in the great nest of -mountains in the eastern end of Oriente.</p> - -<p>Baracoa, some twenty miles east, is a small, picturesque anchorage, but -with almost no protection against northerly winds, and for this reason -cannot rank as a first class port, although a good deal of shipping -leaves it during the year, the cargoes consisting mostly of cocoanuts -and bananas, for which this district has always been quite a center of -production in Oriente.</p> - -<p>It was on this harbor that Diego Velasquez made the first settlement in -Cuba, in the year 1512. He called it the city of Nuestra Senora de la -Asuncion, but the original Indian name of Baracoa has remained attached -to the spot where Spanish civilization began in the Pearl of the -Antilles.</p> - -<p>It was here that General Antonio Maceo with a little band of thirty men -landed from Costa Rica in March, 1895, and began the War of -Independence, which ultimately led to the formation of the Republic of -Cuba.</p> - -<p>Rounding Cape Maysi at the extreme eastern end of Cuba, and following -the south coast, no harbor is found<a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a> until we reach Guantanamo Bay, -nearly a hundred miles west. This magnificent harbor was first visited -by Columbus on his second voyage when he sailed along the south coast in -1494. The celebrated navigator referred to it as “Puerto Grande,” but -the original Indian name of Guantanamo again replaced that of the white -invaders.</p> - -<p>The Bay of Guantanamo is considered one of the finest harbors in the -world. It was selected from all the ports of Cuba by Captain Lucien -Young in 1901 as the best site for a naval station in the West Indies -for the United States Navy. Arrangements were later made between Cuba -and authorities in Washington, by which it was formally ceded for that -purpose. Not only is Guantanamo a large bay, extending some fifteen -miles up into the interior, but its mouth is sufficiently wide and deep -to permit three first-class men of war to enter or leave the harbor -abreast at full speed, without danger of collision or contact with the -channel’s edge on either side.</p> - -<p>The Guantanamo River, after draining the great wide valleys that lie to -the north and west, enters the Bay on the western shore. The City of -Guantanamo, some fifteen miles back, is connected by rail with the -coast, and also with the city of Santiago de Cuba, fifty miles further -west. It was founded toward the end of the eighteenth century by French -refugees from Santo Domingo, and has at present a population of 28,000.</p> - -<p>Eleven large sugar estates are located in the Guantanamo valley, which -is one of the largest cane producers in Oriente.</p> - -<p>Fifty miles further west we find the harbor of Santiago de Cuba, -absolutely land-locked, and probably the most beautiful of all in the -West Indies. Its entrance, between two headlands, is narrow and might -easily escape observation unless the passing vessel were less than a -mile from shore. Rounding the high promontory of the east, with its -old-fashioned fort of the middle eighteenth century, one enters a -magnificent bay, dotted with<a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a> palm covered islands, gradually opening -and spreading out towards the north. Its winding channels present -changing views at every turn, until the main or upper bay is reached, on -the northern shore of which is located the city of Santiago de Cuba, -that for half a century after its founding in 1515 was the capital of -Cuba.</p> - -<p>Santiago played a very important part in the early history, or colonial -days, of the Pearl of the Antilles, passing through the trials and -tribulations that befell the first white settlers in this part of the -Western Hemisphere. Not many years after its founding, it was sacked and -burned by French corsairs.</p> - -<p>Santiago was one of the few cities in all Cuba that retained the names -given them by their Spanish founders. It was here in June, 1538, that -Hernando de Soto, appointed Governor by the King of Spain, recruited men -for that unfortunate expedition into the great unknown territory across -the Gulf, which cost him his life, although his name became immortal as -the discoverer of the Mississippi River.</p> - -<p>Santiago became famous in American history through the destruction of -Cervera’s fleet by Admirals Sampson and Schley, and the capitulation of -the city to United States forces in July, 1898. It has a population of -about 45,000. The city lies on the southern slope of the plateau, rising -from the bay towards the interior. Its streets are well laid out and -fairly wide, with several charming little parks, or plazas, such as are -found in all Latin American cities.</p> - -<p>The commercial standing of the city is based on the heavy shipments of -sugar and ores, iron, copper and manganese mined in the surrounding -mountains. The building of the Cuba Company’s railroad connecting it -with the other end of the Island and with the Bay of Nipe on the north -coast, did much towards increasing the importance of Santiago. The -outlying districts of the city are reached by a splendid system of -automobile drives, surveyed and begun at the instigation of General<a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a> -Leonard Wood, then governor of the Province, in 1900. These well-built, -macadamized carreteras wind around hills and beautiful valleys, many of -which have a historic interest, especially the crest of the Loma San -Juan, or San Juan Hill, captured by the American forces in the summer of -1898. A unique kiosk has been built on the summit of this hill from -which a view of El Caney, over toward the east, and many other points -which figured in that sharp, brief engagement, are indicated on brass -tablets, whose pointed arrows, together with accompanying descriptions, -give quite a comprehensive idea of the battle which loosened the grip of -the Spanish monarchy on the Pearl of the Antilles, and made Cuban -liberty possible for all time to come. In the valley just below is a -beautiful Ceiba tree, under which the peace agreement between American -and Spanish commanders was concluded in July, 1898. The grounds are -inclosed by an iron fence with various inscriptions instructive and -interesting.</p> - -<p>Santiago is named in honor of the Patron Saint of Spain, and the -Archbishop of Cuba, in keeping with custom and early traditions, still -makes his headquarters in this picturesque and historically interesting -capital of the Province of Oriente.</p> - -<p>Between Santiago and Cabo Cruz, one hundred and fifty miles west, is but -one harbor worthy of mention, the Bay of Portillo, a rather shallow -although well protected indentation of the south coast. On the rich -level lands at the base of the mountains back of and around the harbor -of Portillo, grow enormous fields of cane, feeding the mill on the -western side of the bay. Several other indentations of the south coast -furnish landing places from which either timber or agricultural products -may be shipped, when southerly winds do not endanger the anchorage. A -small harbor known as Media Luna, between Cabo Cruz and Manzanillo, -forms the shipping place of the Ingenio Isabel, which produced 175,000 -sacks of sugar in 1918.<a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a></p> - -<p>The somewhat shallow harbor of Manzanillo is located at the mouth of a -small stream in the Sierra Maestra. Vessels of more than fifteen feet -draft, find the Manzanillo channel somewhat difficult. The city itself -is comparatively modern, with wide streets regularly planned and laid -out. Its population is about 18,000, although the municipal district -contains some 35,000 inhabitants. Manzanillo is one of the chief -shipping ports and distributing points for the rich valley of the Cauto, -the largest valley by far in Cuba. This river during the rainy season is -navigable for river boats for some hundred miles to the interior. Bars -that have formed near its mouth on the west shore of Guacanabo Gulf -prevent the navigation of deeper craft.</p> - -<p>The City of Bayamo, located on the Bayamo River, a tributary of the -Cauto, is connected by the southern branch of the Cuba Company’s -Railroad with Manzanillo, twenty-five miles west, and also with Santiago -de Cuba. It was one of the original seven cities founded by Diego -Velasquez in 1514. In the early days of colonial occupation, Bayamo -passed through the same period of trials and tribulations that afflicted -nearly all of the early settlements in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Historically it has never been prominent as the birth-place of struggles -in which the natives of Cuba endeavored to throw off the yoke of Spain. -It was the home of Cespedes, the first revolutionary President of the -Island, who freed his slaves in 1868, and with a small force of men -raised the cry known as the “Crita de Baire,” that started the Ten -Years’ War.</p> - -<p>Again, in February, 1895, General Bartolome Maso with his son and a few -loyal companions left his home in the city of Bayamo, and at his farm -called “Yara” declared war against the armies of the Spanish Monarchy, -never surrendering until Independence was eventually secured through the -defeat of Spain by American forces in 1898. The city, although boasting -only of some 5,000 inhabitants, is located in the fertile plains<a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a> of -the Cauto Valley, known throughout the world as the largest sugar cane -basin ever placed under cultivation. The Cuban National Hymn had its -origin in this little city and is known as the “Himno de Bayamo.”</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">ON THE CAUTO RIVER</p> -<p>The Cauto River, traversing Oriente Province, is the largest stream in -Cuba, and is of inestimable value for navigation, for water supply, and -for drainage. It is the salient feature of many fine landscape scenes, -ranging from the idyllic to the majestic. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip092_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip092_sml.jpg" width="535" height="350" alt="ON THE CAUTO RIVER - -The Cauto River, traversing Oriente Province, is the largest stream in -Cuba, and is of inestimable value for navigation, for water supply, and -for drainage. It is the salient feature of many fine landscape scenes, -ranging from the idyllic to the majestic." /></a> -</p> - -<p>Holguin, located in the northern center of the Island, among picturesque -hills and fertile valleys, is the most important city in northern -Oriente. It was founded in 1720, receiving its charter in 1751, and -boasts of a population of about 10,000. The harbor of Gibaro, -twenty-five miles north, with which it is connected by rail, is the -shipping port of the Holguin district. The country is very healthful and -long noted as a section in which Cuban fruits acquire perhaps their -greatest perfection. Americans living in this city, within the last ten -years, have established splendid nurseries, known throughout the Island.</p> - -<p>Victoria de las Tunas, a small city located on the Cuba Company’s -Railroad, some 20 miles from the western boundary of the Province, -acquired celebrity in the War of Independence owing to its capture after -a siege of several days by the Cuban forces under General Calixto -Garcia, in the fall of 1897.</p> - -<p>It was in this engagement that Mario Menocal, then Chief of Staff with -the rank of Colonel in the insurgent forces, distinguished himself -through a brilliant charge made at a critical moment, in which he led -his Cuban cavalry against the well equipped forces of Spain. Colonel -Menocal was wounded in this engagement, but as a reward for intelligent -and courageous action he was shortly afterward made Brigadier General, -and given command of the insurgent forces in the Province of Havana, -which he held up to the time of the Spanish surrender in 1898.</p> - -<p>An incident indicative of the character and discipline of the Cuban -forces took place at the capture of Victoria de las Tunas, when General -Calixto Garcia, after caring for the Spanish wounded, furnished an -escort to protect his prisoners and non-combatants who wished to<a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a> leave -the city, in a march overland to the town of Manati, where they were -delivered into the safe keeping of the Spanish authorities, as the -Cubans were unable to keep prisoners owing to shortage of food. General -Calixto Garcia was a native of Holguin, owing to which fact, perhaps, -much consideration was shown to both persons and property in the -surrounding district, where he had both friends and relatives.</p> - -<p>The sugar industry, of course, as in all provinces but Pinar del Rio, is -the chief source of wealth in Oriente. The entire northeastern half, -including the great valley of the Cauto River, as well as the rich lands -in the valley of Guantanamo, and the basin surrounding the Bay of Nipe, -are devoted almost entirely to the production of sugar. The European War -of 1914 gave a great impetus to this industry, owing to the demands made -by the allies for this staple food product. An illustration of this may -be found in the increased acreage of cane in Oriente between the years -of 1913 and 1918. In 1913 Oriente was producing 3,698,000 bags, while in -1918 the sugar crop reach 6,463,000 bags. Forty-two large sugar centrals -are in operation in Oriente at the present time, with a marked increase -each year.</p> - -<p>Next in importance to the production of sugar ranks stock raising. -Thousands of acres that cover the plateaus, foothills, mountains, parks -and valleys, supplied as they are with an abundance of fresh water and -splendid grass, furnish strong inducements to the stock grower of -Oriente, who has nothing to fear from cold, snow, drought or storm. The -profits of stock raising where the business is conducted under -intelligent management, are certainties, which is true of all sections -of the Island adapted to this industry.</p> - -<p>Coffee, as in the provinces of Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio, owes its -introduction into Cuba to the French refugees who, driven by revolution -out of Santo Domingo, fled to Cuba and settled there in the first years -of the nineteenth century. The large profits that have<a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a> resulted from -the cultivation of sugar cane have undoubtedly drawn capital from the -coffee industry, and unless a sufficient amount of cheap labor can be -secured, the gathering of this crop is not always profitable. In spite -of the rather heavy tariff, and the excellent quality of the bean, it is -compelled to compete with the imported article from Porto Rico and other -countries. It is quite probable, too, that through years of neglect in -cultivation, the habit of prolific bearing has deteriorated.</p> - -<p>The rich, narrow, deep soiled vales among the tangled mountains that -cover the eastern extremity of the province are especially adapted to -the growth of cacao, but in spite of most satisfactory returns most of -the farmers of Cuba seem to prefer life in the open potreros, with its -cultivation of sugar cane and care of live stock, to that of comparative -retirement, imposed upon those who devote themselves to coffee and cacao -in the mountainous districts. Cacao, nevertheless, owing to the more -extensive manufacture of chocolate in all parts of the world, is in -increasing demand, and it is practically certain that the near future -will bring immigrants from mountainous countries, who will find the -cultivation of both coffee and cacao to their liking, as well as to -their permanent profit.</p> - -<p>But very little tobacco is grown in Oriente, aside from that which has -long been cultivated on the banks of the Mayari River. In the -neighborhood of the little village bearing that name, considerable -tobacco of an inferior grade has been grown for many years, The German -Government up to the blockading of her ports in 1914, consumed almost -the entire Mayari crop, the soldiers of that country seeming to prefer -it to any other tobacco.</p> - -<p>More valuable timber grows in the interior of Oriente than in any other -part of Cuba, and much of it will probably remain standing until more -economical methods are introduced by which logs can be conveyed to the -coast for shipment. Large amounts of cedar and mahogany<a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a> are exported -every year from Oriente, especially from the valley of Sagua de Tanamo, -which empties into Tanamo Bay on the north coast.</p> - -<p>Several American colonies have been located in the different parts of -this province, most of them devoting their energies to the growing of -fruits and vegetables that are shipped to northern markets from the -terminus of the railroad at Antilla, on Nipe Bay. Some of them, too, -have built up stock farms that are giving splendid results.</p> - -<p>Owing to the size of the province, and its comparatively few -inhabitants, greater opportunities for colonization are found here than -in the western end of the Island. Thousands of acres of magnificent -lands, at present owned in huge tracts, are still available for purchase -and division into small farms. These would furnish homes for families -that might be brought from Italy and the Canary Islands greatly to the -profit of the Republic itself as well as to the immigrants. People of -this class are especially desired in Oriente, and every effort is being -made by the Government to encourage their immigration, since energy, -combined with a fair degree of intelligence, on the rich lands of this -section of Cuba, can result only in success.</p> - -<p>The mineral wealth of Oriente is undoubtedly greater than that of any of -the other provinces. Although both iron and copper have been mined here -for many years, the mineral zones of the Island have never been fully -exploited, or even intelligently prospected, by men familiar with the -mining industry. Copper was discovered by the early Spanish conquerors -and mined at El Cobre, in the early years of the 16th century. The ore -deposits of this mine have never been exhausted, and are still worked -with profit. The same mineral has been discovered in other sections of -the province, but owing to lack of transportation facilities, but little -effort has been made towards mining it. The Spanish Iron Company, for -more than a half century, has been taking<a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a> iron ore from the sides of -the mountains on the coast, just east of the city of Santiago de Cuba, -and shipping it from the port of Daquiri.</p> - -<p>These mines are in the form of terraces, that are cut into the sides of -the mountains, so that the ore can be easily withdrawn and shipped to -the United States for smelting purposes. These properties have recently -changed hands, and with the investment of greater capital will soon be -put into a still higher state of production.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the most profitable iron mines in the Republic are those owned -by the Bethlehem Steel Company, in the Valley of the Mayari, some -eighteen or twenty miles back from the coast. The mineral here is easily -removed from the surface, and sent by gravity down to the large reducing -mills on the shore of the Bay, where most of the waste material is -washed out with water. The iron ore of Oriente is of a very high grade -and is impregnated with a sufficient amount of nickel to add greatly to -its value.</p> - -<p>The recent demand for chrome, brought about by the enormous increase in -the consumption of steel in the United States, brought the chrome -districts of the world, including those of Cuba, into considerable -prominence. The great shortage of tonnage, too, made it inconvenient to -bring chrome from Brazil. Recent investigations made in Cuba, however, -demonstrated the fact that this Province alone, with the investment of a -few hundred thousand dollars in road building, can supply the mills of -the United States with all the chrome and manganese needed for the -development of the steel industries. Several manganese mines are being -worked at the present time, most of them on the northern slope of the -Sierra Maestra, whence the ore is conveyed by rail to Santiago de Cuba -and shipped to Atlantic ports, where the demand is greatest.</p> - -<p>The development of the mining industry in Oriente has hardly begun, but -with the enormous amount of iron and<a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a> copper that will be needed for -building purposes throughout the world in the near future, there is -every reason to believe that this province will have an opportunity to -open up and to work many of her mines, with very satisfactory returns on -the capital invested.<a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X<br /><br /> -THE ISLE OF PINES</h2> - -<p>A<small>LTHOUGH</small> from the early days of Spanish conquest the Isle of Pines was -considered by Spain as an integral part of Cuba, as are Cayo Romano and -all other adjacent islands, in the treaty of Paris that concluded the -controversy in regard to Spain’s possessions in the West Indies the Isle -of Pines was referred to as a locality distinct in itself, and as -possibly not coming within the jurisdiction of Cuban territory.</p> - -<p>A rule placed on any mariner’s chart of the West Indies, connecting in a -straight line Cabo Cruz, in the Province of Oriente, and Cape San -Antonio, the western extremity of Cuba, includes the Isle of Pines -within the limits of the seismic uplift which formed the Pearl of the -Antilles. More than all, during much of the geological history of the -region across the shallow sandy bed, covered now with only a few fathoms -of water, the Isle of Pines was connected by land with Cuba.</p> - -<p>During the first government of American intervention, several ambitious -citizens of the United States bought large tracts of territory in the -Isle of Pines, whose owners considered them of so little value that they -parted with them at prices varying from 75¢ to $1.25 per acre. These -properties were immediately divided up into small farms, varying from -five to forty acres, and placed on the market in the United States. With -glowing descriptions of the country they were sold at prices gradually -increased from $15 to $50 and even $75 an acre.</p> - -<p>In view of the beautiful printed matter so widely distributed, and the -values which fertile farming lands in the United States had acquired in -recent years, these prices apparently did not seem exorbitant, -especially<a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a> to men of means, who during the greater part of their -experiences had fought out the struggle of life in the cold northwest. -Many Americans were thus induced to come and settle in the Isle of -Pines, with the hope, if not of amassing a fortune as pictured in the -alluring terms of the propaganda, at least of securing a competence for -their declining years.</p> - -<p>More than all, the Isle of Pines was thoroughly advertised throughout -the American Union as belonging to the United States, whose emblem of -Liberty floated as an indication of ownership never to be lowered. This -matter of ownership was finally brought before the Congress of the -United States and through treaty with the Republic of Cuba, afterwards -confirmed by decision of the Supreme Court of the United States, was -definitely settled in favor of the smaller Republic. Cuba, in -consideration of the waiving of all American claims on the Isle of -Pines, agreed to cede to the United States coaling stations at Bahia -Honda and Guantanamo. Thus the disputed territory retained its original -position as the southern half of the judicial district of the Province -of Havana.</p> - -<p>The Island contains approximately 1200 square miles, a third or more of -which is occupied by a large swamp bounded on the north by a depression -running east and west across the Island, and extending to its southern -shore on the Caribbean. The soil as a rule is sandy and poor, lacking -nearly all the essential elements of plant food, and hence, for -successful agriculture, needs large quantities of fertilizer.</p> - -<p>The natural drainage of the Island is good, and the climatic conditions -are almost identical with those of Cuba. Aside from poverty of soil, -that which has most obstructed its prosperity is its geographical -position, lying as it does some fifty miles from the mainland, within -the curve formed by the concave littoral of the southern shore, from -which it is separated by shallow seas and sand bars. The only harbor -with sufficient depth for ocean going steamers is the open roadstead of -La Ensenada de<a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a> Siguanea, which furnishes little or no protection from -heavy western winds. Vessels plying between the Isle of Pines and the -United States are compelled to go several hundred miles out of their way -in rounding the western extremity of Cuba.</p> - -<p>All products raised in the Isle of Pines at the present time are shipped -on light draft steamers to the landing of Batabano, whence they are -transferred to a branch of the United Railways of Havana and carried -across Cuba to the wharves of the capital for export. This loss of time -and breaking of bulk has been, of course, disadvantageous to the fruit -and vegetable growers of the Isle of Pines. Nevertheless large -shipments, especially of grape fruit, have been made, and during those -seasons in which Florida has suffered from frost, the returns to the -grower have been very satisfactory.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, too, this interesting outpost of the Republic of Cuba -lies directly within the path of the cyclones which during the months of -September and October form in the Lesser Antilles to the southwest, and -travelling northwesterly rake the Caimeros, the Isle of Pines and the -extreme western end of Cuba. These great whirling storms usually pass -through the straits between Cape San Antonio and Yucatan, following the -curve of the western Gulf States until exhausted in the forests of -northern Florida and Georgia. The cyclone of October, 1917, destroyed -all the fruit of the Isle of Pines and practically ruined the citrus -groves, greatly discouraging the people who had devoted so many years of -time and toil to their care and development.</p> - -<p>In spite of these disadvantages, however, the greater part of the -Americans who have made their homes in the Isle of Pines, with genuine -Yankee grit, refuse to lose courage, and have started all over again to -restore those sections that were temporarily devastated. The Isle of -Pines is not an attractive place for the man of small means, since -considerable capital is absolutely necessary for successful agriculture -in that section. Nevertheless,<a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a> there is every reason to believe that -with time, and intelligently directed effort, the Island may eventually -become a really valuable asset to the Republic.</p> - -<p>There seems to be no reason why the great deposits of muck from the -swamps which form the southern part of the Island, lying also along the -coast of the mainland in many places, might not be transferred to those -soils of the Isle of Pines lacking in humus, and thus in time build a -foundation of sufficient fertility to produce almost any crop desired.</p> - -<p>In the northern half of the Isle of Pines are several low mountains, or -ridges and hills, especially on either side of Nueva Gerona, which are -composed largely of crystalline marble known as the Gerona marble. It is -probable also that this same material forms part of the Sierra Pequena, -or Little Ridge, located a few miles east, as well as that of the Sierra -de Canada seen in the distance.</p> - -<p>This marble is thoroughly crystalline, retaining little or no trace of -organism that it may originally have held. The greater part of it is -rather coarse, although there are some beds of fine white statuary -marble. The color varies from pure white to dark grey, with strongly -marked banding in places. These rocks probably belong to the Paleozoic -age, although the crystalline character of the material renders the -period of their origin somewhat doubtful. In some beds the impurities of -the original limestone have recrystallized and formed silicate minerals, -chiefly fibrous hornblende. This deposit of marble has been estimated to -be not less than 2,000 feet in thickness.</p> - -<p>The drinking water of the Isle of Pines is abundant, and like that of -nearly all other parts of Cuba is of excellent quality. Several mineral -springs exist which have a local reputation for medicinal properties. -Many beautiful homes, and miles of splendid driveways, have been built -by the property owners of the Isle of Pines, who have a natural pride in -its beauty and development.<a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a></p> - -<p>To those pioneers from the United States who have done so much towards -the regeneration and building up of this section, that has always been -agriculturally despised, or at least ignored by the natives, the -Government of Cuba feels greatly indebted, and it realizes fully that -only through immigration of this kind will this excellent work be -continued. Agricultural fairs, to which the Government of Cuba -contributes a generous amount for prizes, are held each year in the -Island, and social life among the residents, enlivened as it is by -visitors from the north during the winter season, is said to be -charming.</p> - -<p>The principal cities are Nueva Gerona and Santa Fe, while numberless -small colonies are found every few miles along the highways that have -been built within the last ten years. The Isle of Pines has an -attractive future and many of the rosy dreams of the early American -pioneers, with time, patience and capital, will undoubtedly be -realized.<a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI<br /><br /> -MINES AND MINING</h2> - -<p>A<small>FTER</small> a lapse of more than four centuries, there are grounds for -believing that the dreams of the early Spanish conquerors, who overran -Cuba shortly after its discovery by Columbus, may be realized, though -not exactly as they expected. Gold may never be found in paying -quantities, yet the mineral wealth of the Island may exceed in value its -present agricultural output, which amounts annually to hundreds of -millions of dollars. The followers of Columbus as a rule cared little -for the more quiet pursuits of agriculture, but were obsessed with a -craving for the precious metals, and during the first half of the 16th -century, with the aid of the Indians, mined and shipped a sufficient -amount of gold to encourage greatly the rulers of Spain, who were quite -as persistent in their craze for the yellow metal as were the pioneers -of the New World.</p> - -<p>Narvaez, Velasquez’s most active lieutenant, at the head of 150 men in -1512, marched from Oriente westward in a wild search for gold. Samples -of this metal were found in various places and sent back to Velasquez, -who forwarded them to King Ferdinand. The seven cities founded within -the next two years were said to have been selected, not owing to the -fertility of their soil or on account of advantageous locations, but -solely with reference to their proximity to gold deposits.</p> - -<p>In spite of these early discoveries, however, the amount of gold found -in Cuba, although encouraging at the time, has never approached the -value of other metals far more common and found in almost unlimited -quantities. The district that first seems to have yielded a fair amount -of gold was along the shores of the Arimao River, where the Cubenos -panned a few hundred dollars in nuggets from<a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a> the bed of the stream, and -this determined the location of the city of Trinidad in 1514.</p> - -<p>The first and largest shipment of gold from the Island of Cuba, -amounting to $12,437, was forwarded to Spain in the summer of 1515, and -was converted into coin of the realm by the King. Since the royal share -was one-fifth of all produced, it would seem that the total yield during -the first four years in Cuba amounted to $62,000.</p> - -<p>The large quantities of gold found in Mexico by Cortez, some ten years -later, so greatly excited the Spanish conquerors in their quest for this -metal, that gold mining in Cuba gradually became an abandoned industry, -and by 1535 had practically ceased. Since that time there have been no -discoveries that would seem to justify further search.</p> - -<p>Some time during the year 1529, copper was discovered on the crest of a -hill known as Cardenillo, about ten miles west of Santiago de Cuba. -Mines in this vicinity had apparently been previously worked by the -Cubeno Indians, who did not enlighten the Spaniards in regard to their -existence. The value of the find was not recognized until a certain -bell-maker, returning as a passenger from Mexico, visited the mines and -analyzed samples of the ore. As a result of his report the people of -Santiago soon became aroused over the prospective value of the find and -petitioned the crown for experts and facilities with which to develop -the mine.</p> - -<p>Dr. Ledoux, the famous French metallurgist, carefully analyzed the ore -from these mines, and as a result reached the conclusion that the -natives of Cuba, although apparently making no use of the copper -themselves, had trafficked with the Indians of Florida, since in the -many assays made of the copper relics of those tribes, it was found that -the same percentage of silver and gold were contained in them as was -found in the ore of the Cuban deposits. No other copper ores known have -percentages of silver and gold so closely identical to those of “El -Cobre.<a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>”</p> - -<p>Little was done, however, toward the development of the Santiago mines -until 1540, when the Spanish crown found itself short of material with -which to make castings for its artillery and ordered an investigation of -the Cuban copper deposits. In April of 1540, a German returning from a -Flemish settlement in Venezluela visited “El Cobre” and entered into an -agreement with the town council to work the mine. The ore yielded, -according to the records, from 55% to 60% of pure copper, carrying with -it also gold and silver. Samples were again sent to Spain to be tested -by the crown. In 1514 forty negroes were set to work in the mines, under -the direction of Gaspar Lomanes, and smelted some 15,000 pounds.</p> - -<p>In 1546 the German referred to above, John Tezel of Nuremberg, returned -from Germany, where he had carried samples of ore from the “El Cobre” -and reported it “medium rich in quality and very plentiful in quantity.” -Tezel spent the remainder of his life, 20 years, in exploiting the -copper of that section.</p> - -<p>Up to 1545 Juan Lobera had shipped 9,000 pounds of Cuban Copper to -Spain. In the spring of 1547 still further shipments that had arrived in -Seville and were ordered cast into artillery to be placed in the first -fort in Cuba, La Fuerza, for the protection of the City of Havana. Three -cannon were cast, of which one, a falconet, burst in the making, and was -perhaps responsible for the report that Cuban copper was of “an -intractable quality.”</p> - -<p>Don Gabriel Montalvo, appointed Governor of Cuba in 1573, was much -impressed by the reports he had heard of the rich copper deposits near -the city of Santiago de Cuba, and visited some of the old workings, but -found the native Cubenos very reluctant to give him information in -regard to mineral deposits, fearing evidently that they would be -compelled to work in them as miners.</p> - -<p>A copper deposit was soon afterwards found near Havana, and samples of -ore were forwarded to Spain with the request that 50 negroes be detailed -to exploit the mine. The quality of the ore was apparently satisfactory<a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a> -for the casting of cannon, and the king ordered that it be used for -ballast in ships returning from Havana, in order to furnish material for -the Royal Spanish Navy.</p> - -<p>In 1580, some mining was done, but the find soon proved to be a pocket -and not a true vein, and the cost of transportation to Havana was -declared prohibitive, in spite of the fact that it showed a “fifth part -good copper.” Other copper mines were afterwards reported in the -neighborhood of Bayamo, near the southeastern center of the Province of -Oriente.</p> - -<p>In May, 1587, although comparatively little copper had been taken from -“El Cobre” mine, due largely to lack of food crops in the vicinity with -which to supply the slaves, the Governor reported that “There is so much -metal, and the mines are so numerous that they could supply the world -with copper, and only lately there is news of a new mine of even better -metal than the rest.”</p> - -<p>Effective work in these mines began in 1599. The much needed protection -from the incursion of pirates and privateers, that had long preyed on -Spain’s possessions in the West Indies, revived industries of all kinds -in Cuba, especially copper mining and ship-building. Juan de Texeda, who -had been commissioned by the King to go to Havana and do what he could -towards protecting the rich shipments of gold that were being sent from -Mexico to Spain against the attacks of the English Admiral, Drake, -sampled Cuban copper and pronounced it excellent. On the site of the -present Maestranza Building, now devoted to the Department of Public -Works and the Public Library, Texeda soon established a foundry, where -he “cast the copper into both cannon and kettles.”</p> - -<p>The mining of copper with profit depends on the price of the metal in -the market and on the cost of extracting and transporting the ore to the -smelter. This, of course, is true with all metals, hence it frequently -happens that mines containing abundant ore are not worked, owing to the -fact that the cost of production, when taken into consideration with the -market price, eliminates the possibility<a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a> of profit. During the past -century the mines of “El Cobre” and vicinity, the extent of whose -deposits seem to be almost unlimited, have been worked at such times and -to such an extent as the market price of the ore would seem to justify.</p> - -<p>Indications, such as boulders that through seismic disturbances or -erosion seem to have rolled down from their original beds, and -occasional outcroppings of copper-bearing ore, are found in every -Province of the Island, although up to 1790 but few explorations worthy -of mention were made outside of the Province of Oriente. The demands for -metals of all kinds, especially chrome, manganese and copper, have -resulted in more or less desultory prospecting since 1915, which has -resulted in finding outcroppings of copper scattered throughout the -mountains of Pinar del Rio. Claims have been located near Mantua, -Vinales, Las Acostas, Santa Lucia, Pinar del Rio, and at various places -between La Esperenza and Bahia Honda along the north coast.</p> - -<p>Reports of copper or “claims,” resulting from traces found, have been -made also in the Isle of Pines and at Minas, only a short distance east -of the city of Havana, in that province. Copper claims have been -registered near Pueblo Nuevo, too, in the Province of Matanzas. In the -province of Santa Clara, claims have been recorded in the districts of -Cienfuegos, Trinidad and Sancti Spiritus. Several very promising copper -mines have been opened up in this province that will undoubtedly yield a -profit if worked under intelligent management and with the judicious -employment of capital. In the Province of Camaguey, copper has been -discovered near Minas, and as several different places along the line of -the Sierra de Cubitas. In Oriente, copper claims have been registered -near Holguin and Bayamo, while “El Cobre,” of course, has been famous -for its yield of ore since the days of the Spanish conquerors.</p> - -<p>The excessive demand for copper resulting from the War in Europe, -together with the high prices offered for<a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a> that metal, recalled the fact -that many years ago Spanish engineers and prospectors, among the hills -of Pinar del Rio, frequently found small outcroppings of copper ore, and -in some cases sank shafts for short distances, where the ore had been -removed and carried to the coast on mule back. The low price of copper -at that time, however, and the scarcity of labor following the abolition -of slavery at the conclusion of the Ten Years’ War, discouraged serious -work on the part of the old timers, traces of whose efforts still remain -at various points along the northern slope of the Organos Mountains.</p> - -<p>The first record we have of the exploration of the mineral zone in which -the famous copper mine of this Province was discovered, dates back to -1790, but it resulted in no definite or profitable work. An English -company of which General Narciso Lopez was president, during the early -part of the 19th century, made some explorations in the district of El -Brujo and Cacarajicara, located in the mountains back of Bahia Honda; -but the defeat of Lopez’s revolutionary forces, and his subsequent -execution in 1851, put an end to the effort.</p> - -<p>Shortly after the Spanish American War, Col. John Jacob Astor, the -American millionaire, became interested in the copper deposits of Pinar -del Rio, which resulted in the establishment of several claims, none of -which, however, were developed. Shortly after this a Mr. Argudin located -claims known as Regelia and Jesus Sacramento, the former only two -kilometers from that of the mine Matahambre. A small amount of -preliminary work was done, but apparently proved unpromising.</p> - -<p>In 1912 Alfredo Porta, a well-known citizen and politician of Pinar del -Rio, interested Mr. Luciano Diaz, a former Secretary of the Treasury and -a man of some means, in a claim which he had denounced some eight -kilometers back from La Esperanza, on the north coast of the province. -Messrs. Porta and Diaz secured the services of an experienced mining -engineer, Mr. Morse, who visited the district, made a careful survey of -the<a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a> claim, and informed the owners that in his estimate Matahambre was -worthy of the investment of any amount of capital, since the grade of -the ore, and the amount exposed through Mr. Morse’s preliminary work, -was sufficient to place it in the list of paying mineral properties.</p> - -<p>Work began at Matahambre in the early part of 1913 under the technical -direction of C. L. Constant, of New York. During the first year a number -of galleries, only a little below the surface, were thrown out in -different directions. Paying ore found in these galleries was very -promising. The first two carloads of ore, shipped by rail from the City -of Pinar del Rio to Havana, sold for a sufficient amount of money to pay -for all of the preliminary work that had been done. In 1915, a shaft was -sunk to a depth of 100 feet and afterwards carried down to the 400-foot -level, where it about reached the level of the sea. Later this shaft was -sent down 150 feet further. The ore taken out at the 400-foot level -proved to be the highest grade of all found, although it is said that no -ore was encountered at any depth that was not of sufficient value more -than to pay for the cost of mining. In fact the percentage of gold and -silver in many cases has paid for the expense of mining the copper. In -1918, six shafts, known as 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, were in operation, and -all yielding excellent ore. There are some 15 different varieties of -copper ore taken from Matahambre.</p> - -<p>The ore for some time was conveyed to the docks at Santa Lucia with mule -teams and motor trucks. These were eventually replaced by wire cables -and the ore was sent to the coast by gravity, greatly decreasing the -cost of transportation. Splendid wharves and receiving sheds, dumps, -etc., have been built at Santa Lucia, whence the ore is lightered out to -deep water anchorage. Fully 300 tons a day are now being removed and -conveyed to the landing. An average of 8,000 tons a month is shipped in -steamers that can take aboard 800 tons a day. This mineral is consigned -to the United States Metal Refining<a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a> Company. In 1916, thirty-three -steamers carried 75,000 tons of mineral to this Company.</p> - -<p>Quite a little city has sprung up around the mine, and 2,000 men are -given employment by the Company. Comfortable quarters have been erected -for the officials, employees and other members of the force. A large -amount of ore was mined in 1918 and held for the completion of a new -concentration plant, which will enable the Company to utilize ore which -under war freight rates would not have been profitable to export. -Following the demise of Sr. Luciano Diaz, his son Antonio Diaz assumed -control and is carrying on the work of the proposed improvements.</p> - -<p>At the time of the closing of the Spanish régime in Cuba, fourteen -mineral claims had been made in the Province of Pinar del Rio. Between -1909 and 1911, 212 were denounced, including 48 of the Company headed by -Mr. Astor. From 1911 to 1918, 2970 claims were registered in the Bureau -of Mines. A large proportion of the interest in copper mining in Pinar -del Rio was undoubtedly the result of the wonderful wealth that has come -from Matahambre, the ore from which mined in 1916 was valued at -$5,500,000.</p> - -<p>Not until the early part of the 19th century did the presence of those -enormous deposits of iron ore found throughout the mountain districts of -Oriente present themselves to the outside world as a profitable -commercial proposition.</p> - -<p>Nearly all of the great iron deposits of Oriente lie within a few feet -of the surface; and on the southern slopes of the Sierra Maestra it is -necessary only to scrape the dirt from the side of the hills, take out -the ore and send it down to the sea coast by gravity. Similar conditions -exist at the Mayari mines on the north coast, just back of Nipe Bay, -where the deposits need nothing but washing with cold water. The soil -being thus removed at little cost, the iron is ready for shipment to the -smelters of the United States.<a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a></p> - -<p>In spite of the fact that this ore was found to be equal to the best -Swedish, and that nature in her own laboratories had supplied the -requisite amount of nickel and manganese, making these mines of Oriente -perhaps the most valuable in the world, but little attention has been -paid to this marvellously rich source of minerals, beyond those few who -are drawing dividends from the industry. The recent purchase of the -Spanish American Iron Company’s holdings at Daiquiri for $32,000,000, -however, has called the attention of mining interests in the United -States to the fact that millions of tons of untouched ore still lie in -the eastern provinces of Cuba. Twenty-five percent of the area of -Oriente contains wonderful deposits of ore, mostly iron, and awaits only -the necessary capital to place it on the markets of the world.</p> - -<p>This nickeliferous iron ore, in which the presence of nickel, so -essential to the making of steel, has been contributed by nature in just -the right proportions, is found in large quantities also in the -provinces of Camaguey and Pinar del Rio. The extent of these mineral -deposits is not yet known, but millions of tons are in sight, awaiting -only cheap transportation to bring them into the markets of the world, -where the grade and quality of the ore will undoubtedly command -satisfactory prices.</p> - -<p>Up to the present time nearly all of the iron ore exported from Cuba -comes from the large deposits of Oriente. The iron on the south coast is -loaded into the steamers from the wharves at Daiquiri and Juraguay. That -on the north coast, brought down from the Mayari mines, is shipped from -the harbor of Nuevitas.</p> - -<p>Below are given the tons of copper and iron shipped from Cuba during the -year from July, 1917, to June, 1918:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:.9em;"> -<tr align="center"><td> </td><td align="right">IRON<br />tons</td> -<td align="right">COPPER<br />tons</td></tr> -<tr><td>July to December, 1917</td><td align="right">272,403</td><td align="right">41,809</td></tr> -<tr><td>January to June, 1918</td><td align="right">218,301</td><td align="right">52,569</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total</td><td align="right" -class="bt">490,704</td><td align="right" -class="bt">94,378</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a></p> - -<p>On the south side of the Sierra de Cubitas, in the Province of Camaguey, -a distinctly marked zone of this excellent iron ore runs parallel to the -main chain of the Cubitas for many miles. Grass covered hills, rising -more or less abruptly from the surface, seem to be composed of solid -masses of iron ore. So great is the value of this mineral zone that the -North Shore Road of Cuba, now under construction and practically -completed from its eastern deep water terminus on Nuevitas Harbor to the -Maximo River just east of the Sierra de Cubitas, was primarily intended -as a means of exploiting and conveying the ore from this zone to the sea -coast.</p> - -<p>In the western portion of the Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio, other -deposits of nickeliferous iron have been denounced and registered, -although the cost of building a railroad to deep water on the north -coast up to the present prevented the development of the mines, located -about 20 miles southeast of Arroyo de Mantua.</p> - -<p>With the enormous amount of constructive work that will undoubtedly -follow the great European War, in which iron and steel will play such an -important part, there is every reason to believe that capital will be -forthcoming with which to build the necessary roads and to develop the -nickel bearing iron ores of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Structural steel, today and in the future, will probably play a greater -part in the world’s progress and development than any other one of the -products of nature. The demand for steel, of course, was greatly -accentuated by the European conflict, without which modern warfare would -be practically impossible. The splendid steel turned out in our mills of -today would be impossible of manufacture without the addition of a -certain percentage of either manganese or chrome. The alloys of these -two metals with iron gives steel its elasticity, hardness and real -value.</p> - -<p>Manganese ores are found in California, Colorado, Arkansas, Georgia, -Michigan, New Jersey and Virginia, but nowhere within the limits of the -United States have<a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a> the United States have the deposits of manganese -proved to be sufficiently extensive to supply the domestic requirements -of the country, even in normal times. The total output of manganese in -the United States in 1901 was less than 12,000 tons. Southern Russia -contains very large deposits of the metal, but up to 1919, 70% to 80% of -the manganese consumed in the United States had been brought from the -interior of Southern Brazil.</p> - -<p>The immediate and imperative demand for both manganese and chrome, -impelled the Government at Washington to seek other sources, closer by, -in order to save the time consumed in securing shipments from Brazil.</p> - -<p>Small amounts of manganese had been secured from Cuba during the ten -years previous to the War, but the extent of these deposits remained -unknown until, in the spring of 1918, the United States Geological -Survey and Bureau of Mines sent two expert engineers, Messrs. Albert -Burch, consulting engineer of the Bureau of Mines, and Ernest F. -Burchard, geologist of the United States Geological Survey, to Cuba in -order to ascertain the quality and quantity of manganese and chrome that -might be furnished by that Republic.</p> - -<p>The party reached Havana in the latter part of February, and were there -joined by Sr. E. I. Montoulieu, a Cuban mining engineer, detailed by the -Treasury Department to act as an escort and associate throughout -research work in the Island. During the two months of their stay these -gentlemen made a rapid survey of the more important chrome and manganese -zones, the report of which was made to the United States Government in -September of 1918.</p> - -<p>The chrome deposits, which up to the time of the visit of these -engineers had attracted attention in Cuba, are all located within -distances varying from ten to twenty-five miles from the north coast of -the Island. Some twelve groups were examined which displayed -considerable diversity in quality, size and accessibility.</p> - -<p>Manganese claims have been registered near Mantua<a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a> and Vinales, in the -Province of Pinar del Rio, but time did not permit an extended study of -those deposits. Valuable manganese deposits of known value are found -also in the districts of Cienfuegos and Trinidad in the Province of -Santa Clara. By far the largest deposits of this ore, and the only ones -that are being extensively worked, are located in the Province of -Oriente.</p> - -<p>The most westerly deposit of chrome visited was found in the eastern -part of Havana province, and two others were located, one near Coliser, -in the Province of Matanzas, another near Canasi, and a third near the -automobile drive about half way between the City of Matanzas and -Cardenas. In the province of Camaguey, only a few miles north of the -city, valuable deposits of chrome were found quite accessible to the -railroad for shipment. Other chrome deposits were found in Oriente; one -near Holguin, another south of Nipe Bay, and three groups in the -mountains not far from the coast between Punta Corda and Baracoa.</p> - -<p>All of the chrome deposits examined by these engineers were found in -serpentinized basic rocks. The ore lies in lenticular and tabular -masses, ranging in thickness from one to more than fifty feet. The ore -is generally fine grained to medium coarse, and runs from spotted -material, consisting of black grains of chromite ranging in diameter -from 1/30 to ¼ of an inch, embedded in light green serpentine, to a -solid black material containing little or no visible serpentine.</p> - -<p>Most of the masses of ore are highly inclined and certain of them are -exposed in ravines, on steep hillsides and in mountainous or hilly -regions. The deposits west of Nipe Bay are in areas of moderate relief, -and those near Camaguey are in an area of very low relief. The deposits -in the eastern part of Oriente, which are the largest visited, are in a -mountainous country and very difficult of access.</p> - -<p>In Havana Province small pockets of chrome ore have been found about two -miles south of Canasi, ten miles<a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a> from the railroad. A little mining has -been done and about 600 tons of ore shipped.</p> - -<p>In Matanzas Province small deposits of chrome were visited on the “Jack” -claim, seven miles northwest of the railroad station on Mocha, and on -the Anna Maria claim ten miles west of Cardenas. The latter is only two -miles from the railroad but no ore had been shipped from it. -Considerable development work has been done on the “Jack” claim and -about 450 tons of ore were on hand in February of 1918.</p> - -<p>Another promising claim was located in a group of several serpentine -hills that rise from the comparatively level surface about a mile north -of kilometer 36, on the automobile drive between Cardenas and Matanzas. -The outcropping chrome and loose lumps of float, found on the surface, -were of high grade, exceeding probably 50%.</p> - -<p>Since the visit of the American engineers another very promising -chromite claim has been located some four kilometers from the railroad, -near Coliseo, in the Province of Matanzas. The owners of this claim -announce an unlimited quantity of good grade ore, and were shipping in -the winter of 1918 and 1919 two carloads of ore per day to the United -States by rail, using the Havana and Key West Ferry. Messrs. Burch and -Burchard state in their report that the geological conditions in the -areas referred to above warrant further exploration.</p> - -<p>The deposits of chrome examined in Camaguey consist of three groups, -which lie along a narrow zone, beginning nine miles north of the City of -Camaguey and extending southeast to a point only two miles from Alta -Gracia, on the Nuevitas Railroad. A level plain, covered with a thin -mantle of clay and limonite gravel, extends from the City of Camaguey -northward until its junction with the hills of the Sierra de Cubitas, -rendering the country easily accessible by wagon road. Float ore is -found in this zone, and broken ore caps some ten or twelve small hills -that rise from five to fifty feet above the surrounding surface. In this -zone there are also<a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a> fifteen or more other outcroppings of chromite, -most of them obscured by broken ore and rock debris. Prospecting has -been done here to obtain samples of ore for analysis, but it has not -shown either the nature or the extent of the deposits. On the surface, -however, there is a considerable quantity of ore in the form of broken -rocks or coarse float, probably 20,000 tons.</p> - -<p>Ten samples of ore from the deposits near Camaguey contain from 27% to -36% of chromic oxide. Only two produced less than 30% while a few ran -above 35%. This is a low grade ore but is suitable for certain purposes. -If it should require concentration, sufficient water is available in -small streams within a mile of the deposit.</p> - -<p>Twenty miles north of Camaguey, near the eastern end of the Cubitas iron -ore beds, are several other deposits of chrome that were examined by A. -C. Spencer of the United States Geological Survey in 1907. All of these -denoted noteworthy quantities of chrome float, apparently of high grade, -and the occurrence of tabular bodies of chrome from one to five feet in -width. On one claim boulders of chrome ore are distributed over a belt -of some 1700 feet, and on another, fragments of ore are found in an area -150 by 250 feet. On still another claim, five deposits lie within an -area measuring 1200 by 3000 feet. One of these seems to be continuous -for something over 900 feet.</p> - -<p>Both chrome and manganese are scattered throughout various sections of -Oriente and the largest deposits of these minerals as well as those of -iron are located in this Province. Small deposits of chrome are located -some seven miles northeast of Holguin, on the slopes of a low ridge of -serpentine that lies between two higher ridges of steeply inclined -limestone, about a half mile distant from each other. One pocket had -yielded about 150 tons of ore, which with 25 tons of float was ready for -shipment in March, 1918. Analysis of samples showed an average of 34% of -chromic oxide. The maximum content<a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a> of chromium in pure chromite is -46.66% and the content of chromic oxide is 68%. Late in July of that -year the company’s consulting engineer reported that a large body of 40% -ore had been developed, and that in all about 500 tons were ready for -shipment.</p> - -<p>One of the larger deposits of chrome that gives promise of a -considerable output is located on the south slope of the Sierra de Nipe, -about seven miles southeast of Woodfred, the headquarters of the Spanish -American Iron Company’s Mayari mines. The upper part of the ore body -crops out of a steep hillside about 300 feet above a mountain stream, -flowing into a small tributary of the Mayari River, and seems to be from -ten to thirty feet in thickness. Where it does not crop out, it lies -from 30 to 50 feet below the surface. The ore varies in quality, the -better grade carrying as high as 48% of chromic oxide, with 7% to 15% of -silica, and 7% to 10% of iron. The deposit was estimated to contain -about 50,000 tons of chrome ore, 25,000 tons of which would carry more -than 40% of chromic oxide and the remaining 25,000 tons between 34% and -40%.</p> - -<p>The Cayojuan group of chrome ore claims are located on both sides of a -small river emptying into Moa Bay, and lie at an altitude of about 750 -feet above the sea level. An outcrop that extends around the hill for -about 300 feet, and covers some 6,400 square feet, has been prospected. -Samples on analysis gave an average of 38.1% chromic oxide.</p> - -<p>The Narciso claim, which nearly surrounds the above group, includes an -ore body that crops out on a steep hillside, about 500 feet above the -river. A sample of ore from this outcrop showed an analysis of 34.8% of -chromic oxide.</p> - -<p>The Cromita claims, one the left side of the river, contain three known -ore bodies, and hundreds of tons of boulder float ore, in an arroyo or -gulch. The ore bodies are exposed on the side of a bluff at a height of -150 to 300 feet above the river. The most northerly ore body<a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a> shows a -face 20 feet wide and 15 feet high. The middle body includes an outcrop -75 feet long and 50 feet high and has been penetrated by cutting a -tunnel. Geological conditions would indicate that these bodies are -connected within the hill. Samples of these ores on analysis varied from -26% to 40.5% of chromic oxide.</p> - -<p>The deposits of the Cayojuan group contain probably about 22,500 tons of -available chrome ore, but may run as high as 60,000 tons. These -estimates include 2,000 tons of float ore in the Cayojuan River and the -tributary arroyo. The group of deposits is about eight miles by mule -trail from an old wharf at Punta Gorda, to which a road will have to be -built along the valley of the Cayojuan, a narrow gorge bordered in many -places by steep cliffs. A light tramway for mule cars, or a narrow gauge -steam railway, will probably be the most economical way of removing the -ore.</p> - -<p>The Potosi chrome claim is located on Saltadero Creek four miles above -its mouth. This is a tributary of the Yamaniguey River. The ore body is -a steeply dipping lens that reaches a depth of more than 100 feet and at -one place has a thickness of 250 feet with a length along the strike, of -45 feet. The upper edge crops out about 325 feet above the creek bed, -and about 600 feet above sea level. The ore is medium to coarse grained. -Some of the material in the drifts is spotted but most of the -outcropping and float ore is black and of good appearance. According to -the analysis that accompanied the report of G. W. Maynard, the -representative ore contains 35% to 41% chromic oxide. This deposit -contains from 10,000 to 20,000 tons and the work of getting the ore to -the coast involves rather a difficult problem in transportation.</p> - -<p>A small body of chrome ore occurs on the Constancia claim, -three-quarters of a mile south of Navas Bay, and about 100 feet above -the sea level. The ore body appears to extend about 50 feet along the -face of a gently sloping hill. It is not of a uniform quality, being<a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a> -largely a spotted ore; that is chromite mixed with serpentine ganue. -About six feet of better ore, however, is exposed in a cut some 25 feet -in length. This contains 39.4% chromic oxide. Water for concentration is -available near by in the Navas River, and a road could easily be built -to the bay, but this is not deep enough for steamers, so it would have -to be lightered four miles north to Taco Bay, or ten miles southeast to -Baracoa. Another body containing about 10,000 tons of chrome ore of -low-grade lies in the mountain eight miles south of Navas Bay.</p> - -<p>The reserves of marketable chrome ore that have been prospected in Cuba -up to the summer of 1918, range from 92,500 long tons to 170,000. The -largest known deposits of chrome ore, or at least the largest of those -visited by the engineers Burch and Burchard in the spring of 1918, are -those of the Caledonia, and the Cayojuan and the Potosi claims, near the -northeast coast of Oriente Province, in a region of rather difficult -access. According to indications, they will probably yield 130,000 tons -of ore, most of which can be brought to the present commercial grade by -simple concentration.</p> - -<p>The next largest group of chrome ore deposits is near Camaguey. They are -very easy of access, but are of a lower grade than those of Oriente. -They appear to contain a maximum of about 40,000 tons of ore that can be -gathered by hand from the surface.</p> - -<p>Near Holguin, Cardenas and Matanzas, are small stocks of ore ready for -shipment, perhaps 1,000 tons. The most productive chrome mine operating -in the fall of 1918 seemed to be that of the “Britannia Company,” -located about twelve miles southwest of Cardenas and about 80 miles from -Havana. Two carloads a day were being shipped by rail from Coliseo to -Havana, and thence by ferry to Key West and northern smelters.</p> - -<p>The manganese ores of Cuba occur principally in sedimentary rocks such -as limestone, sandstone and shale, that in places have become -metamorphosed, but in the<a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a> most heavily mineralized zones are associated -with masses of silicious rocks, locally temed “jasper” and “byate.” In -one locality the manganese and its silicious associates were found in -igneous rocks, such as Latite-porphyry and Latite. The sedimentary rocks -with which manganese deposits are usually associated are in some places -nearly horizontal, but generally show dips ranging from a few degrees to -forty-five or more. The inclined beds usually represent portions of -local folds. Some faulting is shown in the vicinity of various manganese -deposits and may have influenced the localization of the deposits.</p> - -<p>Manganese ore is found in Oriente, Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio -provinces, but only in Oriente has it been found in large commercial -quantities. In Oriente the deposits are in three areas, one north and -northeast of Santiago de Cuba, another south of Bayamo and Baire, and -the third on the Caribbean coast between Torquino Peak and Portillo. The -first two include the most extensive deposits on the Island. In Santa -Clara ore has been found near the Caribbean coast west of Trinidad, and -in Pinar del Rio Province manganese ore occurs north of the city of -Pinar del Rio and farther west near Mendoza.</p> - -<p>The deposits of the northeast coast and those south of Bayamo, distant -from each other approximately 100 miles, show nevertheless an -interesting concordance in altitude. They stand from 500 to 1200 feet -above sea level and nearly all of them are at altitude near 600 and 700 -feet, suggesting a relation between the deposition of the manganese and -a certain stage in the physiographic development of the region. Most of -the manganese ore deposits are above drainage level, on the slopes of -hills of moderate height, the maximum relief in the immediate vicinity -of the deposits seldom exceeding 500 feet.</p> - -<p>The deposits of manganese ore examined in Cuba are rather diverse, but -may be grouped into three general physical types—buried deposits, -irregular masses associated with silicious rock or “jaspar,” and -deposits in residual clay. The buried deposits comprise several<a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a> -varieties, one of the most common being of poorly consolidated beds of -sandy chloritic material, cemented, with manganese oxides, that fill -inequalities in the surface of hard rocks. Other bedded deposits clearly -replace limestone, shale conglomerate or other rocks, and tabular masses -of ore are interbedded with strata of nearly horizontal limestone. The -ore consists largely of Pyrolusite, but many deposits contain -Psilomelane, Manganite and Wad, or mixtures of all these materials. The -richness of the deposits varies considerably. Most of the richest masses -are associated with the “jaspar,” but masses that have replaced -limestone are also very rich.</p> - -<p>The deposits of manganese examined in the Santiago district comprise the -Ponupo Group, the Ysobelita, Botsford, Boston, Pilar, Dolores, Laura, -San Andrea, Cauto or Abundancia, Llave and Gloria Mines, together with -the Caridad and Valle prospects. All of these properties except the two -prospects are producing ore. The Ponupo, Ysobelita and Boston mines were -opened many years ago and have produced a large quantity of ore. The -Ponupo and Ysobelita are still relatively large producers, though the -grade of ore is not so high as that shipped in the earlier days. The -Ponupo mine is connected with the Cuba Railroad at La Maya by a branch -two miles long, and a narrow gauge track from Cristo, on the Cuba -Railroad, runs to the Ysobelita mine three miles distant. Extensions of -this line to the Boston and Pilar mines can be made with little -additional outlay. The Dolores and Laura mines are near the Guantanamo & -Western Railroad, not far from Sabanilla station, and the Cauto mine is -adjacent to the Cuba Railroad at Manganeso Station. The other mines are -from one to eight miles from the railroad, to which the ore is hauled -mainly by oxcarts. In the rainy season these roads are impassable, and -even in the dry season they include many difficult places, so that the -quantity of the output is much less than could be mined under different -circumstances.</p> - -<p>The ore is mined by hand, mostly from open cuts,<a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a> though short drifts -and tunnels have been run into lenses of ore at the Ponopu, Cauto and -Laura mines, and a slope has been driven on a thin tabular mass of ore -between strata of limestone, dipping about 34 degrees, at the Botsford.</p> - -<p>High grade ore may be selected in mining the richer parts of these -deposits, but most of it requires mechanical treatment, such as long -washing and jigging to free it from clay, sand and other impurities. At -one mine the ore is cleaned by raking over a horizontal screen in a -stream of water. Log washers are in operation at some mines and under -construction at others. At one time a system of washing, screening and -jigging is employed. They daily production of manganese ore in March, -1918, from this district, was about 300 tons.</p> - -<p>The approximate average composition of the ore now shipped is as -follows:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td>Manganese</td><td align="right">38.885%</td></tr> -<tr><td>Silica</td><td align="right">12.135%</td></tr> -<tr><td>Phosphorus</td><td align="right">.084%</td></tr> -<tr><td>Moisture</td><td align="right">11.201%</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="nind">The greater part of the manganese ore from this district contains from -36% to 45% manganese, a few thousand tons running over 45%.</p> - -<p>The manganese deposits examined by Messrs. Burch and Burchard south of -Bayamo consist of the Manuel, Costa group, 18 to 23 miles by wagon road -southwest of Bayamo; the Francisco and Cadiz groups, 15 and 20 miles -southeast of the same city; and Guinea, Llego and Charco Redondo, seven -to eight miles southeast of Santa Rite; and the Adriano and San Antonio -mines, 9 to 10 miles south of Bayari. Other deposits, further to the -southeast, are in what is known as the Los Negros district. But little -mining has been done so far in this district. Deposits of milling ore -are available and will undoubtedly be developed later if prices remain -favorable.<a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a></p> - -<p>It was estimated in April, 1918, that the output of manganese from this -district, during 1918, would not exceed 12,000 tons, half of which would -be high-grade ore carrying from 45% to 55% of manganese. Later -developments, however, indicated a much larger output.</p> - -<p>The reserve of manganese ore in this section was estimated at about -50,000 tons, but this does not include the Los Negros district which -lies further southeast, 25 to 35 miles from the railroad. Engineers who -have examined this zone believe that with good transportation facilities -it will yield a large output of high-grade ore from many small deposits.</p> - -<p>Aside from difficult transportation facilities in some districts, one of -the chief obstacles in the way of a large yield of ore from the mines -has resulted from an inability to hold a sufficient number of miners at -certain mines, owing to an inadequate supply of foodstuffs. Many workmen -preferred to work in the sugar mills where good food was more readily -obtained and living conditions were easier. Lack of explosives also -handicapped mining in some districts. The building of narrow gauge -railroads in which the Cuban Federal Government will probably assist -will greatly contribute to the successful or profitable mining of -manganese in the Province of Oriente. The fact that most of the ore is -removed during the dry season, when the Cuba Company’s roads are taxed -to the limit in conveying sugar cane to the mills, also renders -transportation by rail rather uncertain.</p> - -<p>Despite the handicaps outlined above, operators of manganese mines are -striving to increase their output, and there is a strong interest taken -everywhere in Cuba in developing manganese prospects. If railway cars -and ships are provided for transporting the ore, food for the mine -laborers, and explosives for blasting, the outlook for a steadily -increasing production is good. The output for 1918 was estimated at -between 110,000 and 125,000 tons, more than 90% of which runs from 36% -to 45% manganese, the remainder being of a higher grade.<a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a> The reserves -of manganese ore in the mines above referred to in Oriente Province are -estimated at from 700,000 to 800,000 tons, 85% of which is located in -the district northeast of Santiago.<a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII<br /><br /> -ASPHALT AND PETROLEUM</h2> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> presence of bituminous products in Cuba has been a matter of record -since the days of the early Spanish conquerors. Sebastian Ocampo, that -adventurous follower of Columbus, in the year 1508 dropped into one of -the sheltered harbors of the north coast, not previously reported, in -order to make repairs on some of his battered caravels. Much to his -surprise and delight, while careening a boat to scrape the bottom some -of his men ran across a stream of soft asphalt or mineral pitch, oozing -from the shore near by. Nothing could have been more convenient for -Ocampo, and according to the early historians he made a very favorable -report on the advantages of Cuba for ship building. First she had well -protected harbors in plenty, with an abundance of cedar and sabicu from -which to cut planking; there were majagua, oak and other woods from -which to hew the timbers. Tall straight pines grew near the harbor of -Nipe that would do for masts. From the majagua bark and textile plants, -tough fibre could be obtained with which to make the rigging. Both iron -and copper were at hand for nails and bolts. All that was lacking seemed -to be the material for the sails, and even this could have been found -had he known where to look.</p> - -<p>So convenient did this harbor prove to the needs of Ocampo that he -called it Puerto Carenas, by which name it was known until 1519, when -the 50 odd citizens left by Velasco a few years before on the south -coast, where they had tried to found a city, moved up from the -Almandares to Puerto Carenas and straightway changed its name to the Bay -of Havana, by which it has since been known.<a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a></p> - -<p>The same little stream of semi-liquid asphalt can today be seen, issuing -from the rocky shore along the east side of the bay. This deposit was -mentioned by Oviedo in 1535, who referred also to other asphalt deposits -found along the north coast of what was then known as Puerto Principe. -These asphalt deposits, so close to the shore, were undoubtedly utilized -by the navigators of the 16th and following centuries in making repairs -to the numerous fleets that were kept busy plying between Spain and the -New World.</p> - -<p>Alexander Von Humboldt, who in the year 1800 came across from Venezuela -to Cuba to study the flora, fauna and natural resources of the Island, -mentioned what he called the petroleum wells of the Guanabacoa Ridge, -located not far from Havana, at a point once known as the mineral -springs of Santa Rita. Richard Cowling Taylor and Thomas C. Clemson, in -a book published in 1837, mentioned “the petroleum wells of Guanabacoa” -which had been known for three centuries and that were undoubtedly the -wells to which Baron Von Humboldt had previously referred. La Sagra, -too, in 1828, described petroleum fields located near Havana, and in -1829, Joaquin Navarro described several deposits of bituminous material -in a report which he made to the “Real Sociedad Patriotica.”</p> - -<p>The bituminous deposits referred to by Taylor and Clemson proved to be a -solid form of asphalt. It was afterward used in large quantities as a -substitute for coal. They speak of finding crude petroleum also, filling -the cavities in masses of chalcedony, only a few yards distant from the -asphalt. The place referred to was afterwards ceded to the mining -companies of Huatey and San Carlos, located twelve miles from Havana, -where may still be seen the original wells.</p> - -<p>In a report on bituminous products of the Island by G. C. Moisant, -reference is made to a liquid asphalt or petroleum found in Madruga, a -small town southeast of Havana. This petroleum product, according to -recent<a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a> investigations, flows from cavities in the serpentine rocks -found near Madruga and surrounding towns.</p> - -<p>An oil claim was registered in 1867 near Las Minas, 18 kilometers east -of Havana, as the result of oil indications in the cavities of rocks -that cropped out on the surface. A well was opened that yielded some oil -at a depth of 61 meters. This was sunk later to 129 meters but -afterwards abandoned. Within the last few years several wells have been -drilled in the vicinity of the old Santiago claim and have produced a -considerable amount of oil.</p> - -<p>The General Inspector of Mines, Pedro Salterain, in 1880 reported the -presence of liquid asphalt, or a low grade of crude petroleum, that -flowed from a serpentine dyke, cropping out on the old Tomasita -Plantation near Banes, on the north coast some twenty miles west of -Havana. The product was used for lighting the estate. All of the wells -of this province are located on lands designated by geologists as -belonging to the cretaceous period. This is true of those properties -where indications of petroleum are found near Sabanilla de la Palma and -La Guanillas, in the Province of Matanzas.</p> - -<p>During a century or more, hydrocarbon gases have issued from the soil in -a district east of Itabo, in the Province of Matanzas. In 1880, Manuel -Cueto had a well drilled on the Montembo Farm in this district. He -finally discovered at a depth of 95 meters a deposit of remarkably pure -naphtha which yielded about 25 gallons a day. It was a colorless, -transparent, liquid, very inflammable, and leaving no perceptible -residue after combustion. Cueto afterwards opened another well to a -depth of 248 meters and there discovered a deposit of naphtha that -produced 250 gallons per day. According to T. Wayland Vaughn of the -United States Geological Service such gases are plentiful in the -surrounding hills.</p> - -<p>In June, 1893, commercial agents of the United States Government -reported that petroleum had been found near Cardenas of a grade much -better than the crude oils imported<a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a> from the United States. In -November, 1894, another commercial agent from Washington reported that -asphalt deposits near the city of Cardenas could produce from a thousand -to five thousand tons of this material a year.</p> - -<p>In 1901 Herbert R. Peckham, describing asphalt fields east and south of -Cardenas, mentions the drilling of a well by Lucas Alvarez, in search of -petroleum, which he found at a depth of 500 feet, and from which he -pumped 1000 gallons of petroleum, but this exhausted the supply of the -well. As a result of investigations made by Mr. Peckham, seepages of -crude oil and liquid asphalt of varying density may be found here over a -district measuring about 4,500 square miles.</p> - -<p>Near the city of Santa Clara there is a petroleum field known as the -Sandalina, samples of which were analyzed by H. M. Stokes in 1890, which -he reported to be quite similar to the crude petroleum of Russia. In the -neighborhood of Sagua and Caibarien, in the northern part of Santa Clara -Province, petroleum fields have recently been discovered, and others in -the southern part of the Province of Matanzas.</p> - -<p>Large deposits of asphalt, of varying grades and densities, have been -found at intervals along the north coast of the Province of Pinar del -Rio. From the harbor of Mariel a narrow gauge road has been built back -to mines some six miles distant, over which, up to the beginning of the -European War, asphalt was brought to the waterside and loaded directly -into sailing vessels, bound for the United States and Europe. Other -deposits have been found at La Esperanza and Cayo Jabos, a little -further west along the same coast, and in the estimation of some well -informed engineers this Pinar del Rio coast furnishes the most promising -field for petroleum prospecting of all in Cuba.</p> - -<p>As a result of the petroleum excitement, brought about by reports of -surface indications and of the success of the Union Oil Company’s -drillings, many claims have been<a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a> registered for both asphalt and -petroleum within recent years. Up to the last day of December, 1917, 215 -claims were filed in the Bureau of Mines, covering an area of about -25,000 acres. In the same time 88 claims, scattered throughout the -various Provinces, were registered for oil, comprising a total area of -about 40,000 acres.</p> - -<p>This scramble for oil lands has resulted in the formation of some fifty -different companies, most of which have issued large amounts of stock, -and many of which will properly come under the head of “wildcat” -adventures. This, however, has happened in other countries under similar -circumstances; notably in the United States.</p> - -<p>In the fall of 1918 some 15 companies were drilling for oil, most of -which yielded very little results. This was due in some instances to -inadequate machinery, and in others to inefficient workmen, together -with absolute lack of any definite knowledge of the district in which -they were working. In addition to this, nearly all of the wells drilled -have either found oil or stopped at a depth of 1000 feet. In only a few -instances have wells been sunk to a depth of 3000 feet, and most of -these were in a section where almost nothing was known of the geology of -the country.</p> - -<p>In Sabanilla de la Palma, the Cuban Oil and Mining Corporation drilled -to a depth of 1036 feet. On reaching the 120-foot level, they penetrated -a layer of asphalt four feet in thickness, and found petroleum in small -quantities at two other levels. At 1037 feet they met petroleum of a -higher grade, and are planning to sink the well to a depth of 4000 feet -with the idea of finding still richer deposits.</p> - -<p>About two kilometers west of Caimito de Guayabal, near the western -boundary of Havana Province, Shaler Williams has drilled several wells, -one to a depth of 1800 feet, which produced oil and gas, but in small -quantities. The gas has furnished him light and power on his farm for -several years.</p> - -<p>Since 1914 the Union Oil Company has been successfully<a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a> exploiting the -Santiago claim near Bacuranao, some 12 miles east of Havana. During 1917 -and 1918, this company drilled ten wells with varying results. One of -these reached a depth of 700 feet, producing three or four barrels of -excellent petroleum per day, but was afterwards abandoned. Wells 2 and 3 -were abandoned at a depth of only a few hundred feet on account of -striking rock too difficult to penetrate. Well No. 4, at a depth of 560 -feet, produced oil at the rate of 10 to 15 barrels per day. No. 5 -yielded 400 barrels per day. No. 6 was abandoned at 1912 feet without -showing any oil. No. 7 yielded petroleum at 1000 feet, but only in small -quantities. No. 8, at 1009 feet, produces a good supply of oil. No. 9, -at the same depth, also produces oil, while No. 10, sunk to a depth of -1012 feet, produced a little oil at 272 and 1000 feet. These ten wells -have all been drilled in a restricted area measuring about 300 meters -each way.</p> - -<p>The crude petroleum of the Union Oil Company’s wells is of a superior -quality, analysis showing 13% gasoline and 30% of illuminating oil. -Between December, 1916, and June, 1918, these wells produced 1,740,051 -gallons of crude. This oil is at present sold to the West Indian -Refining Company at the rate of 12¢ per gallon.</p> - -<p>Just north of the Union Oil Company’s wells are what are known as the -Jorge Wells, where the Cuban Petroleum Company have been drilling for -oil since 1917. They sank one well to 840 feet, which at first produced -25 barrels a day, but afterwards dropped to two barrels a day, although -producing a great quantity of gas. Well No. 2 of this company, sunk to -111 feet, was abandoned. Well No. 3 produced 210 barrels the first day, -but afterwards dwindled to an average of 100 barrels a day. In the month -of June, 1918, 3,385 barrels of oil were produced, together with a large -amount of gas, that is consumed for fuel in the two furnaces of the -company. All of this petroleum is sold to the West Indian Refining -Company, of Havana.<a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a></p> - -<p>In another section of the Jorge Claim, the Republic Petroleum Company -drilled a well to a depth of 2,200 feet, finding petroleum at 995 feet. -East of the Santiago or Union Oil Company’s wells, the Bacuranao Company -sank a well to a depth of 1009 feet, that produced 12 barrels per hour -during several days. This company delivers its oil to market over the -Union Oil Company’s pipe lines.</p> - -<p>The wells drilled on the Union Oil Company’s property, together with -those of the Jorge claim, are all grouped in an area that does not -exceed 20,000 square meters. Nearly all have produced petroleum at a -depth of approximately 1000 feet, most of them in small quantities; but -they may nevertheless be considered as producing on a commercial basis, -since their product sells at a good price.</p> - -<p>The oil wells of Cuba so far have not produced anything like the -enormous quantities that issue from the wells in the United States and -Mexico, but the results are encouraging, especially since the -explorations so far have been confined to a very moderate depth, seldom -exceeding 1500 feet. It is quite probable that wells in this section -will be ultimately drilled to a depth of at least 4,000 feet.</p> - -<p>Petroleum, as we know, is found in many different kinds of geological -formations. In Pennsylvania we meet crude oil in the Devonic and -carboniferous strata; in Canada in the Silurian; in the State of -Colorado in the cretaceous; in Virginia in the bituminous coal lands; in -South Carolina in the Triassic; in Venezuela it occurs in mica -formations; while in the Caucasus again it is in the cretaceous. No -fixed rule therefore can be said to designate or control the geological -formation that may yield oil.</p> - -<p>All of the petroleum found in Cuba, so far, seems to have its origin in -cretaceous formations, corresponding probably to the Secondary. A -somewhat significant fact<a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a> is that petroleum in this Island seems to be -invariably associated with igneous rocks. So far all of it, or at least -all in wells worthy of consideration, seems to come from deposits that -lie along the lines of contact between the serpentines and various -strata of sedimentary rocks. Up to the present, wells that have been -drilled in sedimentary strata, at any considerable distance from the -intrusion of serpentine rocks, have produced no results.</p> - -<p>E. de Goyler has reached the conclusion that the oils found below the -serpentine, or at points of contact between serpentine and sedimentary -rocks, had their origin in Jurassic limestone. Rocks of this period form -a large part of the Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio, and the above -quoted authority is confident that the asphalt and petroleum fields -found in the immediate vicinity of serpentine thrusts during volcanic -action are all filtrations from deposits far below the surface. This -view seems to agree with results of observation made in the neighborhood -of the Bacuranao oil fields, where the drills have usually penetrated a -considerable depth of serpentine rock before meeting the -petroleum-bearing strata of sand and limestone.</p> - -<p>Frederick C. Clapp, in his study of the structural classification of -fields of petroleum and natural gas, read before the Geological Society -of America, stated that in Cuba there are undoubtedly deposits which he -designates as coming from a subdivision of sedimentary strata, with -masses of lacolites, an unusual form of deposit, met in the Furbero -Petroleum fields of Mexico, where oil bearing strata lie both above and -below the lacolite.</p> - -<p>The consensus of opinion among experts who have examined the recent -explorations in the neighborhood of Bacuranao seems to be that in spite -of the fact that no oil well in Cuba, up to the present, has produced -large quantities of petroleum, there is excellent reason for believing -that wells drilled to a depth of three or four thousand feet, in zones -that have been carefully studied by<a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a> competent geologists, may yet rival -in amount of production those of the best petroleum fields in other -parts of the world.</p> - -<p>The deposits of asphalt in Cuba, in view of the extensive road building -planned for this Republic, have an undoubted present and future value -well worthy of consideration. Asphalt of excellent quality, and of -grades varying all the way from a remarkably pure, clean liquid form, up -through all degrees of consistency to the hard, dry, vitreous deposits -that resemble bituminous coal sufficiently to furnish an excellent fuel, -is found in Cuba in large quantities. Most of it is easily accessible, -and of grades that command very good prices for commercial purposes in -the world’s markets.<a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII<br /><br /> -FORESTRY</h2> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> virgin forests of Cuba, at the time of the Spanish conquest, were -rich in hardwoods, such as mahogany, cedar, rosewood, ebony, lignum-vitæ -and many others unknown in the markets of the United States. During four -centuries these forests have been one of Cuba’s most important assets. -Unfortunately this source of wealth has been drawn upon without -forethought or discrimination since the first white settlers began to -use the products of the forest in 1515.</p> - -<p>The completion of the North Shore Railroad of Camaguey, extending from -Caibarien to Nuevitas, will soon open up the great hardwood forests of -the Sierra de Cubitas and add greatly to the wealth of that district.</p> - -<p>There are 367 varieties of valuable forest trees, described with more or -less detail in the Bureau of Forestry connected with the Department of -Agriculture of Cuba. More than half of these are susceptible of taking a -high polish, and would if known undoubtedly command remunerative prices -in the hardwood markets of the world. At the present time, two only, -cedar and mahogany, are sought and quoted in the commercial centers of -the United States.</p> - -<p>While we find in Cuba few forest trees common to the United States, -nearly all of the standard woods, such as oak, hickory, ash, maple, -beech and walnut, seem to have their equivalents, from the viewpoint of -utility at least, in the native woods of this Island. For purposes of -manufacture, carriage making, naval uses, house building, cabinet work -and fine carving, or general construction, Cuba has many woods of -unsurpassed merit and often of rare beauty.<a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a></p> - -<p>The following list contains 60 of the most useful woods found in the -forests of Cuba. Nearly all of these take a very high polish and are -valuable in the arts as well as for construction purposes. Not more than -a half dozen, unfortunately, are known to the hardwood trade, even by -name, and since most of these names are purely local, they would mean -little to the dealers outside of the Island of Cuba, where most of them -are in daily use;</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Acana</span>: indigenous to Cuba; grows to height of 50 feet with diameter -of two feet; hard, compact, deep wine color; used in general -construction work, and is especially valuable for making -carpenters’ planes and tools. Wears indefinitely. Sp. Gr. 1.28.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Aceitillo</span>: indigenous; grows to height of 30 feet; common -throughout the Island; strong and tough; light yellow color; used -for general construction. Sp. Gr. 1.04.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Aite</span>: indigenous; grows to height of 25 feet; diameter 2 feet; of -common occurrence; strong and compact; light brown color; used in -cabinet work. Sp. Gr. 1.07.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Ayua Blanco</span>: indigenous; 55 feet in height; 2 feet in diameter; -found in Pinar del Rio and Isle of Pines; soft; white in color; -used for boxes, beehives, cross beams; produces a gum used in -medicine. Sp. Gr. 0.72.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Almacigo Colorado</span>: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 2 feet in -diameter; found everywhere; soft; reddish color, used for fence -posts and charcoal; has medicinal properties and produces resin. -Sp. Gr. 0.38.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Amiqua</span>: indigenous; 40 feet in height; 7 feet diameter; hard, -compact, reddish in color; found in light soils; used for joists -and beams, and for wagons. Sp. Gr. 1.16.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Algarrobo</span>: indigenous; 75 feet in height, diameter 4½ feet; -strong; yellowish color; found in deep soils; used for building -purposes; yields a varnish and has medicinal properties. Sp. Gr. -0.64.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Ateja Macho</span>: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 3 feet in<a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a> diameter; -found throughout Island, also in Isle of Pines; flexible and hard; -grey in color; used in general construction and ship building; Sp. -Gr. 0.87.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Ateja Hembra</span>: indigenous; 50 feet in height; 3 feet diameter; found -in Pinar del Rio; hard, compact and heavy grained; yellow in color; -found in deep soils; used for general carpenter work. Sp. Gr. 0.62.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Aguacatillo</span>: indigenous; 55 feet in height; found all over Island, -including Isle of Pines; soft and light; light green color; found -in black lands; general carpenter work; Sp. Gr. 1.14.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Arabo</span>: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast; fibrous, -compact and strong; reddish brown color; used for poles and general -carpenter work; bears fruit eaten by cattle; takes beautiful -polish; Sp. Gr. 1.52.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Abran de Costa</span>: indigenous; found Pinar del Rio; strong, compact; -mahogany color; cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 0.97.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Baga</span>: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast and on river -banks; very light in weight; greyish brown in color; used for fish -net floats; bears fruit eaten by cattle; Sp. Gr. 0.6.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Baria</span>: indigenous; 50 feet in height; found all over Island, in -deep soil; easily worked, dark brown color; used in general -carpenter work; flowers produce feed for bees; takes a fine polish; -Sp. Gr. 0.78.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Brazilete Colorado</span>: indigenous; 25 feet in height; found on coast, -also in the savannas; excellent wood; reddish brown; used for -turning purposes and inlaid work; takes high polish; produces a -dye; Sp. Gr. 0.9.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Bayito</span>: indigenous; 30 feet in height; found in Pinar del Rio; hard -and compact; variegated brown color; used for frames, posts, etc.; -takes high polish. Sp. Gr. 1.25.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Caguairan</span> or <span class="smcap">Quiebra Hacha</span>: indigenous; 45 feet height, 3 feet -diameter; found in Oriente; resists rot; compact, heavy and hard; -reddish brown color; used for beams, channel posts, etc. Sp. Gr. -1.44.<a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a></p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Cana Fistola Cimarrona</span>: indigenous; 45 feet in height, scattered -over Island; beautiful, strong and resistant wood; reddish in -color; adapted for tool handles. Sp. Gr. 0.87.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Caimitillo</span>: indigenous; 35 feet height; found all over Island; -hard, tough wood; used in carriage manufacture; bears fruit; Sp. -Gr. 1.1.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Carey de Costa</span>: indigenous small tree, found on coasts and -savannas; heavy and brittle; dark tortoise shell color; takes -beautiful polish; used for cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.04.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Cerillo</span>: indigenous; 35 feet in height; diameter 18 inches; found -in western end of Island; excellent wood; yellow in color; used for -cabinet work; takes fine polish; Sp. Gr. 0.56.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Carne de Doncella</span>: indigenous; 50 feet height; 18 inches diameter; -common in forests; compact, tough and hard; rose color; grown in -rich lands; used for table tops and carriage work. Sp. Gr. 0.92.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Chicharron Amarillo</span>: indigenous; 36 feet in height; 18 inches in -diameter; common in forests; strong, elastic and durable; dark -yellow color; used for posts, sleepers, channel stakes, etc. Sp. -Gr. 0.96.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Chicharron Prieto</span>: indigenous; 36 feet height; 18 inches diameter; -strong solid wood; brown color; used in carriage work.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Caoba</span> or <span class="smcap">Mahogany</span>: five varieties of this tree; indigenous; 36 feet -in height, from six to twelve feet in diameter; grows all over the -Island; excellent and durable wood; color mahogany or dark red; -used for fine carpenter work and furniture; Sp. Gr. 1.45.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Cedro</span> or <span class="smcap">Cedar</span>: four varieties; indigenous; 60 to 75 feet in -height; 6 feet in diameter; found all over Island; soft and easily -worked; light mahogany color; used in fine carpenter work; cabinet -work; Sp. Gr. 0.9.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Cuya o Carolina</span>: three varieties; indigenous; very hard and -compact; light wine color; used for uprights, beams and -construction work. Sp. Gr. 1.02.<a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a></p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Dagame</span>: indigenous; 40 to 45 feet in height; 18 inches in diameter; -grows on hilly land; strong and compact; yellowish grey color; used -for carpentry and carriage work; Sp. Gr. 0.74.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Royal Ebony</span>: indigenous; 34 feet in height; found on coast lands; -good wood; black in color; used for canes; inlaid work; familiar in -United States for fine cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.17.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Espuela de Caballero</span>: indigenous; small tree, found all over -Island; excellent wood; yellow to red in color; used for fancy -canes, turning and inlaid work; Sp. Gr. 0.9.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Fustete</span>: indigenous; 36 feet in height; found in dense forests or -Oriente and Camaguey; dark wine color; used for carpenter and -carriage work; is yellow dye wood; Sp. Gr. 1.32.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Granadillia</span>: indigenous; 20 to 25 feet in height; small diameter; -hard, compact and tough; mottled brown and bright yellow in color; -used for fine inlaid work and canes; Sp. Gr. 0.89.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Guama de Costus</span>: indigenous; 25 to 35 feet in height; hard, tough -and compact; light cinnamon color; used in construction work and -for ox-yokes and plows; Sp. Gr. 0.68.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Guayabo Cotorrero</span>: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; small -diameter; all over Island; ductile, chrome yellow color; used for -cabinet work; tool handles; Sp. Gr. 0.92.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Guaracan Prieto</span> or Lignum Vitae: indigenous; 55 to 60 feet in -height; comparatively slender; found on coast; durable and compact; -dark brown mottled with yellow; used for turning, banisters, -croquet balls, and shaft bearings; Sp. Gr. 1.17.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Guayacan Blanco</span>: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; slender, -strong and compact; light yellow color; grows on black lands; -especially useful for carriage and wagon spokes; Sp. Gr. 0.79.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Humus</span>: indigenous; hard compact and tough; blood red<a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a> in color; -fine carpentry and cabinet work; furnishes a dye; Sp. Gr. 0.84.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jiqui</span>: indigenous; 50 to 60 feet in height; 3 feet diameter; -strong, hard, durable, dark brown in color; found in all soils; -used for supports, posts, channel stakes and stakes for boundary -lines; never rots in swamp land; makes good charcoal.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jucaro Prieto</span>: two varieties; indigenous; 60 to 75 feet in height; -four feet in diameter; all over Island; very strong; impervious to -rot in swampy and bad lands; used for wagon and carpenter work; -especially adapted for pilings.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jucaro Amarillo</span>: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; slender; all -over the Island; strong and compact, yellow color, especially -adapted for posts and wagon axles; Sp. Gr. 1.13.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jacaranda</span>: indigenous; 45 to 55 feet in height; strong, tough and -resistant; yellowish grey; carpenter and furniture work; Sp. Gr. -0.89.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jagua</span>: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; 18 inches in diameter; -found all over Island; strong, elastic and durable; yellow in -color; adapted for carriage work, moulds, lances, etc.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jatia</span>: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; 16 inches in diameter; -found in eastern end of Island; strong, hard and compact; dark -yellow; used in cabinet work and canes; Sp. Gr. 0.94.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Jayajabico</span>: indigenous; small tree, found in Pinar del Rio; hard, -tough and compact; light chestnut color; used in carriage work, -cabinet work, canes, etc.; Sp. Gr. 1.12.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Lebrisa</span>: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; eastern end of the -Island; strong and resistant; yellowish color; adapted for axles, -tillers, and general carpenter work; Sp. Gr. 1.00.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Majugua Macho</span>: indigenous; three varieties; 45 to 50 feet in -height; 3 feet in diameter; found all over Island; very resilient -and flexible; mouse color; variegated<a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a> with black and cream -splashes used in fine cabinet and furniture work; also fine for -carriage work, knees and arches. From the inner bark natives braid -a strong picket rope in a few minutes; Sp. Gr. 0.59.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Maboa</span>: indigenous; 30 to 45 feet in height; 2 feet in diameter; -found in all forests; strong and compact, ash color; used for -beams, posts and also for cabinet work; Sp. Gr. 1.3.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Manzanillo</span>: indigenous; 20 to 25 feet in height; 3 feet in -diameter; found on coast; good wood; yellowish grey color; found in -the low lands; used for furniture and fine cabinet work; Sp. Gr. -0.7.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Mamoncillo</span>: indigenous; 55 to 60 feet in height; 3 feet in -diameter; found all over the Island; hard and compact; light -mahogany color; yields an edible plum; used in cabinet work; Sp. -Gr. 0.85.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Moral Negro</span>: found all over the Island, strong and solid; dark -chestnut color; used in fine carpentry and cabinet work; Sp. Gr. -0.75.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Moruo</span>: indigenous; 50 to 60 feet in height; found in all forests; -good wood; wine colored; used for general carpentry and carriage -work; takes a high polish; Sp. Gr. 1.06.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Ocuje</span>: indigenous; 45 to 50 feet in height; strong, tough and -resistant; red color; used in carriage work and channel stakes; Sp. -Gr. 0.77.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Palo de Lanza</span>: (lance wood) indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; -very resilient and flexible; light yellow color; used for yard -sticks, tool handles, light strong poles and wood springs; Sp. Gr. -0.84.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Palo Campeche</span>: (log wood) indigenous; 25 to 35 feet in height; -found in deep forests; hard, heavy and compact; deep purple color; -used for turning and produces log wood dye; Sp. Gr. 0.9.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Roble</span>: five varieties; indigenous; 40 to 45 feet in height; good -wood, general carpenter work and shelving; Sp. Gr. 0.73.<a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a></p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Sabina</span>: indigenous; found in eastern end of Island; hard beautiful -wood, mottled chocolate color; furniture and general construction; -Sp. Gr. 0.65.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Sabicu</span>: indigenous; very large tree, sometimes called imitation -mahogany; hard, tough and compact; mahogany color; used for rail -chalks, port holes of ships, wagons, etc.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Tagua</span>: indigenous; 25 to 30 feet in height; hard, compact and -durable; used for fine cabinet work and musical instruments; Sp. -Gr. 0.7.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Yaba</span>: indigenous; 45 feet in height; abundant, strong and compact; -reddish color; used for wagon work, general construction and -turning; Sp. Gr. 0.88.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Tana</span>: indigenous; very hard, inflexible; grows in damp and sandy -soils; specially adapted for naval construction; Sp. Gr. 1.02.</p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Yamagua</span>: indigenous; 30 to 35 feet in height; 20 inches in -diameter; excellent wood; reddish yellow; used in general -construction work; Spec. Gr. 0.7.</p> - -<p>Specimens of all these woods, together with some three hundred others, -form a collection that may be seen at any time at the Government -Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas.</p> - -<p>Scattered throughout the broad grass covered savannas that lie along -some parts of the coast of Cuba, are found heavily wooded clumps of -forest trees, that stand up out of the grassy plains like islands, and -give rather a peculiar effect to the landscape. In these “Cayos de -Monte,” as they are called, are found nearly all of the small, hard and -durable woods of Cuba, such as Ebony, Lignum Vitae or Guayacan, -Grenadillo and others of similar character, that seldom make tall trees, -but that frequently have a value in the markets of the world that cause -them to be sold by the pound or hundredweight, instead of by board -measure.</p> - -<p>The great bulk of timber lands, or virgin forests of Cuba, are scattered -throughout the mountainous districts of the Island, mostly in Santa -Clara and Oriente,<a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a> and belong to non-resident owners living in Spain. -While the timber is very valuable, the cost of cutting and getting out -the logs with the help of oxen, precludes any possibility of profit and -will insure their remaining untouched until less expensive methods are -found for their removal to the coast. The price of these lands vary at -the present time from $3 to $15 per acre, and they can be purchased only -in large tracts.</p> - -<p>In passing it may be mentioned that many of the forest lands of the -mountainous districts are located within the mineral zones of the -Island, but the purchase of the property does not carry with it a right -to the ore deposits that may lie below the surface. These can be -acquired only through registering mineral claims or “denouncements” in -accordance with the laws of the Republic.</p> - -<p>Along the southern coast of Cuba, bordering on the Caribbean, especially -in the Province of Camaguey, are still large areas of virgin forests -growing on low, flat lands. Some of these are traversed by streams, down -which the logs are rafted during the rainy season.</p> - -<p>Quite a large area of forest is still retained by the Government. The -sale of these lands is forbidden by law, although under certain -conditions they may be rented to private parties. Some of them have been -distributed among the veterans of the War of Independence.</p> - -<p>The total amount of forest still retained by the Republic is estimated -at 37,000 caballeries or 1,226,450 acres, of which 519,144 acres are -located in the Province of Oriente; 307,910 in Santa Clara; 148,200 in -Pinar del Rio; 113,620 in Matanzas; 88,130 in Camaguey and 49,400 in the -Province of Havana.<a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV<br /><br /> -AGRICULTURE</h2> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> Island of Cuba is essentially an agricultural country. Its fertile -soils have come from the constant erosion of rocks by heavy rains, -through eons of time. Mountain torrents have brought down the debris of -crumbling mountains of feldspar, shale and limestone to be deposited on -the plains below, while rushing streams have eaten their way into the -plateaus of Pinar del Rio and Oriente, until we have at last a -marvellously rich, tropical island garden, supplied by Nature with all -the ingredients needed to maintain its fertility for many centuries to -come.</p> - -<p>More important perhaps than fertility of soil, is the fact that Cuba -lies just within the edge of the Tropics, securing thereby an immunity -from snow, cold wind and frost. This enables her to grow many crops that -otherwise would be barred. More than all, those vegetables that in the -United States and more northern climes thrive during only a few months -of summer, may be grown in Cuba at almost any time in the year.</p> - -<p>On the other hand it is true that many of the great grain crops, such as -wheat, rye, oats and barley, cannot be successfully grown in Cuba, or at -least on only a few of the more elevated plateaus of Santa Clara and -Oriente. But, even were it possible to grow wheat in Cuba, it is more -profitable to buy grain from districts further north, giving in exchange -sugar, tobacco, henequen, coffee, cacao, hides, honey, citrus fruits and -winter vegetables.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">NATIONAL THEATRE, CENTRAL PARK, HAVANA</p> -<p>The builders of the city of Havana through more than four centuries paid -commendable attention to the right placing of important buildings, not -only for convenience but also for picturesque and artistic effect. Thus -the National Theatre, one of the most commodious and beautiful -playhouses in the world, has for its setting the equally beautiful -Central Park, and is approached by the famous thoroughfare of the Prado. -Other notable public and private buildings are suitably grouped about -it, making a civic centre of rarely impressive appearance. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip144_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip144_sml.jpg" width="561" height="362" alt="NATIONAL THEATRE, CENTRAL PARK, HAVANA - -The builders of the city of Havana through more than four centuries paid -commendable attention to the right placing of important buildings, not -only for convenience but also for picturesque and artistic effect. Thus -the National Theatre, one of the most commodious and beautiful -playhouses in the world, has for its setting the equally beautiful -Central Park, and is approached by the famous thoroughfare of the Prado. -Other notable public and private buildings are suitably grouped about -it, making a civic centre of rarely impressive appearance." /></a> -</p> - -<p>Freedom from frost means much to the agriculturist, since it relieves -him from the anxiety suffered by the farmers of Florida and the Gulf -States, that although<a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a> lying on the other side of the Tropic of -Cancer, and enjoying sufficient warmth to produce vegetables during the -winter months, are nevertheless exposed to the danger of absolute ruin, -or at least the loss of a year’s work.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip145_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip145_sml.jpg" width="353" height="216" alt="CUBAN RURAL HOME" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CUBAN RURAL HOME</span> -</p> - -<p>That, however, which favors successful agriculture in Cuba more than -anything else, is the fact that her copious rainfall begins in May, and -continuing throughout the warm months of summer terminates in the latter -part of October, leaving the winter cool and dry, so that fall crops may -ripen and be gathered free from danger of the cold, rainy days of -December so common in the Gulf States.</p> - -<p>In stock raising, also, not only is the Island supplied with an -abundance of nutritious grass, on which animals may graze throughout the -year, but the young are never subjected to loss from the cold winds, -sleets, and driving storms, that decimate the herds of less favored -countries in the North.</p> - -<p>Cuba undoubtedly has some agricultural drawbacks and disadvantages, but -few that may not be successfully overcome with intelligent management -and the judicious care which renders stock raising profitable in any -country<a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>. The one great advantage of the Republic lies in the fact that -the farmer, if he so desires, can put in three hundred and sixty five -days of every year at profitable work in his fields, orchards or -pastures, with no time necessarily lost. Nor is he compelled to work -half the year to provide food and fuel sufficient to feed and keep warm -during the remaining six months of comparative idleness.</p> - -<p>Owing to the exceptional natural facilities for producing sugar and -tobacco cheaply and easily, the farmers of Cuba largely become, in one -sense of the word, “specialists,” and little by little have fallen into -the habit of producing enormous crops of these two staples that are sold -abroad, while food crops are imported at an expense far above that which -it would cost to produce them in the Island. This neglect of food and -forage crops would seem to render Cuba an ideal place for the general -farmer and stock raiser, and the Department of Agriculture, under the -direction of General E. Sanchez Agramonte, is now making every effort to -place the advantages of the country for diversified farming before the -outside world, so that practical farmers and families from agricultural -districts abroad may be induced to come to Cuba and settle permanently.</p> - -<p>The Republic ultimately will raise her own live stock and should produce -sufficient corn, rice, beans, peanuts and perhaps wheat to be, to a -large extent at least, independent of the outside world. With this -purpose in view the Department of Agriculture has encouraged immigration -and through the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas is making -greater efforts than ever before to ascertain just what crops and what -seeds or plants are best adapted to the soil and climate of Cuba.</p> - -<p>This information is being gathered and carefully digested so that it may -be given to the homeseekers and settlers of which the country stands in -such urgent need. At the request of the Secretary of Agriculture, Dr. -Calvino, chief of the Government Station, together with his<a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a> staff, is -searching for and bringing from all parts of the globe every plant and -every variety of animal that can be utilized for food purposes.</p> - -<p>Nearly every variety of wheat, corn, sorghum, rice, potatoes, grains and -tubers, is being tested and tried on the 160 acres of land belonging to -the station. Grapes, peaches, plums and other semi-tropical fruits are -being planted, experimented with and carefully watched for results, -while forage plants and grasses from South America, Africa, Australia, -India, China, Europe and the United States are being tried, each under -conditions approaching as nearly as possible those of its original -habitat.</p> - -<p>Although Cuba with its adjacent islands has an area of only about 45,000 -square miles—approximating the area of the State of Mississippi—one -finds many varieties of soil, the characteristics of which, even when -lying contiguous, are so varied as to be astounding. High and -comparatively dry plateaus, in places, rise almost abruptly from low -level savannas that remain moist in the driest seasons of the year. Rich -deep soiled mountain sides and valleys may be found within a few miles -of pine barrens, whose hillsides are valued only for the mineral wealth -that may lie beneath the surface.</p> - -<p>Great areas of rich virgin forest, in both mountain and plain, still -exist, especially in the eastern half of the Island, where many -thousands of acres in the open, if planted with suitable grasses, would -support countless herds of cattle and live stock. To bring all of this -territory as soon as possible into a state of profitable cultivation, -and thus supply permanent homes for farmers and stock raisers, is the -great aim and purpose of the Department of Agriculture in Cuba today, -and to the consummation of these plans Secretary Agramonte is devoted, -with a most able and energetic Assistant Secretary in Dr. Carlos -Armenteros.</p> - -<p>The great pressing problems of agriculture in the Republic would seem to -be quite sufficient for any one man<a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>’s energies, but, as the present -government was planned and organized, an enormous amount of additional -work, including the supervision of mines, forests, weights, measures, -bank inspection, commerce and labor, come under its jurisdiction, -rendering the responsibilities of the Department heavier and more -complicated than any other branch of the Government, and demanding a -degree of persistence and versatility probably not called for on the -part of any other Cabinet Officer.</p> - -<p>The Department of Agriculture has a personnel of 640 while approximately -a million and a half dollars are appropriated by the Budget for carrying -on the work of the Department. For convenience of administration the -Department is divided into the following sections:</p> - -<ul><li>Agriculture,</li> -<li>Veterinary Inspection and Zoology,</li> -<li>Commerce and Industry,</li> -<li>Immigration, Colonization and Labor,</li> -<li>Forests and Mines,</li> -<li>Patents and Trade Marks.</li></ul> - -<p class="nind">In addition to these are several Bureaus, stations and offices that -report directly to the Assistant Secretary.</p> - -<p>The Section of Agriculture, naturally, is the largest and most -comprehensive of the various divisions or branches of the Department. -Under its direction are the six various “granjas” or Agricultural -Schools that are maintained, one in each Province. The distribution of -seeds and the awarding of agricultural prizes come under its direction, -as so also the inspection of fish, turtling and sponging, and the -registration of domestic animals, including horses, mules and cattle.</p> - -<p>It has also charge of all agricultural fairs and exhibitions, either -foreign or domestic. The purpose of the “Granjas” or agricultural -schools is to educate the children of the rural districts along those -lines which will tend to make them practical farmers and useful -citizens<a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a> of the community. Pupils are admitted at the age of fourteen -and are given tuition, board, lodging and clothes at the expense of the -Government.</p> - -<p>An excellently equipped laboratory for the analysis of soils, -fertilizer, or other material pertaining to agricultural industries, is -maintained by the Division of Agriculture, and forms one of the most -useful branches of the Department.</p> - -<p>The Division of Commerce and Industry is entrusted with the inspection -of nearly everything pertaining to the commerce and industry of the -country. One very important branch is that of the inspection of banks, -tobacco factories, sugar plantations and mills, and general industries -of the Island. A Bureau of Statistics is also attached to this Division.</p> - -<p>The Division of Veterinary Science and Animal Industry, is entrusted -with the development of animal industry throughout the Island, and with -the duty of protecting, as far as possible, livestock of all kinds from -disease, either foreign or domestic. A laboratory, thoroughly equipped, -is maintained as an auxiliary of this Division, enabling the Director to -determine the nature of any given disease and to provide means and -material for combating it.</p> - -<p>Under the direction of the same Section are six poultry stations, one in -each Province, where experiments are conducted with reference to poultry -raising and to the cure of infectious diseases that may afflict. Three -breeding stations, too, dependent on this Bureau, have been established -in the eastern, central and western districts.</p> - -<p>The Division of Forests and Mines, owing to the incalculable wealth of -Cuba’s mines of iron, copper, manganese, chrome, etc., and to the -immense value of her virgin forests of hard woods, scattered throughout -the mountainous districts of the interior is of special importance. -Forest inspectors are maintained whose duty is to see that timber is not -cut without authorization from either government or private lands, or -surreptitiously<a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a> smuggled away from the coast. The enormous acreage, -too, of the red and yellow mangrove, remarkably rich in tannin, that -encircles nearly all the islands bordering on the interior lagoons, and -the making of charcoal carried on in these districts, are supervised by -the forest inspectors.</p> - -<p>Every mineral claim located in the Republic must be reported to the -Director of Mines in charge of this Division, where it is registered in -books kept for the purpose in the name of the individual petitioning, -with the date and hour of record, together with the dimensions or -boundaries of said claim carefully indicated. With this registration a -payment of $2 for each hectare of land is made and receipted for, which -entitles the owner, after said claim has been surveyed by the engineers -pertaining to the Division of Mines, to the sole privilege of working -the claim, or taking either mineral asphalt or oil from beneath the -surface.</p> - -<p>In the Division of Trade Marks and Patents, one of the most important in -the Department, patents and trade-marks are granted for a nominal sum to -both citizens and foreigners. Companies that have secured patents in -foreign countries, after producing evidence to that effect, may -duplicate or extend their patents in this office, and trade-marks that -have been established in other countries may be registered in Cuba on -proper application. Patents for books and publications are also handled -in this Division.</p> - -<p>The Department of Meteorology is responsible for all astronomical and -meteorological observations, and for the publication of data in regard -thereto. The Weather Bureau and all observatories come under its -jurisdiction, together with the publication of official time. It is -responsible for the collection of all data concerning weather and -climate that may affect crops, which data is published weekly, monthly -and annually.</p> - -<p>Under the Division of Immigration, Colonization and<a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a> Labor matters -pertaining to subjects connected with immigration, wages, hours and -working condition of laborers and their connection with capital or -employers, are handled and adjusted. During the year 1918, this Bureau -amicably settled eighteen labor disputes, thus avoiding threatened -strikes. Records of all accidents to labor are kept on file.</p> - -<p>Every immigrant entering the Island of Cuba from any country must be -provided with $30 in cash before being released from Triscornia, the -receiving station on the Bay of Havana. From this station immigrants -without means are looked after by the Division of Immigration, and the -company or person, who, desiring his services, takes him out, is -required to give a bond that he will not become a public charge. This -Department also issues permits to sugar estates, corporations or -companies who wish to import labor on a large scale.</p> - -<p>Under the direction of this Division, the Government has started a -colony for laborers at Pogolotti, a suburb of Havana, where 950 houses -have been built, each with a parlor, two bedrooms, a bath, kitchen and a -yard. They are rented to laborers only, at a monthly rental of $3.12. Of -this $2.71 is applied to the credit of the renter towards the purchase -of the house, the remainder going for expenses of administration and -water. The purchase price is fixed at $650, and when this has been paid -the laborer becomes the owner.</p> - -<p>In addition to the above mentioned Divisions or Sections there are -several independent Bureaus or offices, reporting directly to the -Sub-Secretary and acting under his instructions. Among these is the -Bureau of Game and Bird Protection, organized to enforce the law -regulating the open and closed seasons for hunting deer, and the various -game birds, ducks, pigeons, quail, etc., that abound in Cuba. The work -of this Bureau is conducted along lines and methods similar to those -employed in the United States. The duties of the Director of this most<a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a> -worthy Institution are onerous and unending and to his indefatigable -energy is due the saving of thousands of valuable birds and animals.</p> - -<p>A Bureau known as the Bureau of Publications and Exchanges is charged -with the publication in Spanish of an Agricultural Review, intended for -the enlightenment of the agriculturists of the Island. In this monthly -are printed the reports of the many experiments and important work -carried on at the Government’s Experimental Station at Santiago de las -Vegas, and other matters pertaining to Agricultural industries.</p> - -<p>It is the desire of the Government of Cuba to encourage immigration, and -to invite especially agriculturists and farmers from all countries, and -to use every legitimate means of inducing the better class of immigrants -to make permanent homes in the agricultural districts of the Island. But -in order to guard against misleading information, and possible failure -on the part of settlers from foreign countries in Cuba, one of the main -objects of the Bureau of Information of the Department of Agriculture is -not only to promulgate the exact truth, as far as possible, in regard to -conditions, but also to protect the homeseeker against the machinations -of irresponsible real estate agents, and the disappointment that would -result from the purchase or cultivation of lands that could not give -satisfactory returns.</p> - -<p>The Government wants every homeseeker or investor of capital in Cuba to -make a success of his undertaking, since only success redounds to the -credit and reputation of the Republic. Hence every effort is being made -to advise prospective settlers and investors, in regard to any -legitimate undertaking that may be contemplated. This advice is -invariably gratis and correspondents are requested not to enclose stamps -for replies to their communications, since these are official and do not -require postage. Personal interviews are invited at all times under the -same conditions.</p> - -<p>During the first Government of Intervention, under<a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a> the direction of -General Leonard Wood, an agricultural experimental station was -inaugurated on the outskirts of the little town of Santiago de las -Vegas, some ten miles from the City of Havana. One hundred and sixty-six -acres were purchased for the use of the station and Mr. Earle, formerly -connected with the Department of Agriculture in Washington, was -installed as Director.</p> - -<p>The grounds were well located, with a fine automobile drive passing -along its eastern boundary and the Havana Central Railroad close by on -the west. A large quadrangular edifice occupied by Spanish military -forces, was transformed into the main building of the station. Other -houses for the protection of stock, machinery, etc., were soon added, -while resident homes were built for the officers of the station.</p> - -<p>An abundant source of good water was found at a depth of one hundred -feet and large steel tanks were erected so irrigation could be utilized -where needed.</p> - -<p>Choice fruit and shade trees were brought, not only from the different -provinces of Cuba, but also from other parts of the tropical world and -planted for experimental purposes. Of the latter the Australian -eucalyptus has made a wonderful growth.</p> - -<p>A splendid staff of botanists, horticulturists, bacteriologists and men -versed in animal industry were installed to assist the Director. -Considerable valuable pioneer work was done by these men and much useful -knowledge was imparted to the farmers of Cuba.</p> - -<p>With the installation of the Cuban Republic, several changes were made -in the Direction of the Station, but the routine work was carried on -with a fair degree of success. To bring about radical reforms among the -older agriculturists, who for many years have been addicted to the -antiquated methods of their forefathers, is not an easy task in any -country. To separate the administration of the Agricultural Station of -Cuba from the bane of politics was still more difficult.</p> - -<p>With the inauguration of General Menocal’s second<a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a> term in office, -several changes were made, the result of which have been both marked and -beneficial. General Eugenio Sanchez Agramonte, former President of the -Senate and an ardent lover of everything connected with farm life, was -appointed Secretary of Agriculture, while Doctor Carlos Armenteros, an -enthusiastic and indefatigable worker, was made Assistant Secretary.</p> - -<p>General Agramonte, realizing all that a well conducted experimental -station meant to the agricultural interests of the country, after -careful search and examination into credentials, selected Dr. Mario -Calvano, an Italian by birth, but cosmopolitan in education and -experience, for the new Director of the Station, while larger credits -and a greater number of assistants were placed at his disposal.</p> - -<p>The result was to a high degree both beneficial and satisfactory. The -main building was renovated and, as the Director said, “made possible,” -from floor to ceiling. The southwestern part of the edifice was turned -over to the Department of Woods, Textile Plants and Allied Studies, and -here may be found, labeled and artistically arranged, most of the -indigenous woods of the forests of Cuba, both in the natural state and -highly polished. Samples of every textile plant known to the Island, of -which there are many, hang from the wall, showing the plant as it was -taken from the fields, and how it looks after being decorticated.</p> - -<p>Leaving this section one steps down into a small garden, covering not -over a quarter of an acre, in which may be found growing specimens of -valuable and interesting plants and trees that have been gathered from -Cuba and from other parts of the world so that their adaptability to -this soil and climate may be studied.</p> - -<p>The entire northern side of the building is given over to Animal -Industry and to Bacteriology, where experiments of vital importance to -animal life are conducted under the direction of experts. Not long ago -men were brought from the Bureau of Animal Industry in Washington<a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a> to -assist the Station to establish a plant for the manufacture of the serum -that has proven so efficacious in protecting hogs from the cholera or -pintadilla, as it is known in Cuba. Considerable space is given over to -the raising of guinea pigs, for use in experiments in making cultures of -the germs that produce anthrax and other diseases that might endanger -the herds of the Island.</p> - -<p>Many splendid specimens of live stock, at the order of the Secretary, -have been purchased in the United States and other parts of the world -and brought to the station for breeding purposes. Some twenty odd -magnificent stallions, most of them riding animals and cavalry remounts, -were secured in Kentucky and other states during the spring of 1918 and -brought to the station, where they have been divided among branch -stations located in the other provinces of the Island.</p> - -<p>Excellent specimens of cattle also, including the Jersey, the Holstein, -the Durham and Cebu or sacred cattle of India, have been purchased -abroad and brought to the Station and then installed in splendid -quarters, built of reinforced concrete for their accommodation. The Cebu -has been crossed in Cuba with the native cattle for some years past with -very satisfactory results. Doctor Calvino states that a two-year old -steer, resulting from the cross between a Cebu and a native cow, will -weigh quite as much as would the ordinary three-year old of straight -breeding.</p> - -<p>Many specimens of thoroughbred hogs, including the Duroc, the Poland -China, the Berkshire and the Tamworth, have been brought to the station, -where they and their progeny seem to thrive even better than in the -countries where the breed originated. Angora goats, too, that came from -the Northwest, from Texas, and the mountains of Georgia, have given very -satisfactory results in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Several thousand chickens, including the Rhode Island Red, the Plymouth -Rock, the Orpington, Minorcan and several varieties of Leghorns, were -imported from the<a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a> United States and brought to the Station, where they -seem to be doing very well.</p> - -<p>Under the direction of Doctor Calvino, nearly every acre of the Station -has been devoted to some useful purpose. The grounds on either side of -the main driveway are instructive and interesting. As the winter visitor -passes down the long lane, he will find various tracts under -comparatively intensive cultivation, planted in nearly all the -vegetables common to the United States in addition to those found in -Cuba. Among others are tomatoes, egg plants, green peppers, okra, beans, -peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, peanuts, cabbage, beets, malanga, yucca, -name, acelgas and chayete. Each variety is carefully labelled, with time -of planting and other data necessary for complete reports on results -obtained.</p> - -<p>Other sections are given over to fruits, and nut bearing trees, those -indigenous to Cuba and those brought from other countries. Among the -indigenous fruits we have the beautiful mango, the agucate, the -guanabana, the marmoncillo, the mamey, colorado and amarillo, the anon, -the nispero or zapote, the caimito, the tamarind, the ciruela, and all -varieties of the citrus family.</p> - -<p>Large beautiful groves of oranges, limes, lemons and grape fruit in full -bearing, form a very interesting part of the station’s exhibit. Some -sixteen varieties of the banana, the most productive source of -nourishing food of all the vegetable kingdom, may be studied here under -favorable conditions.</p> - -<p>Several acres have been given over to seed beds and nursery stock, which -in a short time will supply valuable plants of many kinds to other parts -of the Island. A section has been devoted to the cultivation of various -textile plants, including the East Indian jute, the ramie, common flax, -and the malva blanca of Cuba.</p> - -<p>The large patio that occupies the center of the main building is adorned -not only with many beautiful flowers common to this latitude, but also -with quite a number of ornamental palms not common to Cuba, or at least, -not<a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a> to the Province of Havana. The charm of the spot is due not alone -to the interest that arises from an opportunity to study animal and -vegetable life under favorable conditions, but also the high degree of -intelligent efficiency that has been introduced into the life of the -Station with the advent of the present Secretary of Agriculture and -Director, Dr. Calvino. Its beneficial influence is felt throughout the -entire Republic.</p> - -<p>Owing to the fact that agricultural products form the chief source of -Cuba’s revenues, the protection of her various grains, grasses and -useful plants from infection and disease of whatever nature, becomes a -matter of prime importance. Plant diseases and insect pests have brought -ruin to agricultural efforts in many parts of the world. Fortunately -perhaps most of the country’s agricultural effort is devoted to the -production of sugar cane, which is subject to less danger from disease -than almost any other plant of great economical value or utility.</p> - -<p>Tobacco, in the western end of the Island, has long been made the -subject of study and care, with the result that efficient protection has -been secured. Various other plants, however, and especially fruits, are -extremely susceptible to disease and to infection. Some of these -including citrus fruits, the cocoanut and the mango, have recently -suffered severely from diseases that have been imported from other -countries.</p> - -<p>Cuba probably suffers less from these troubles than any other country -within the tropics. Nevertheless her cocoanut industry, owing to the -introduction of what is termed “bud rot,” a few years ago, was reduced -from an annual exportation of 20,000,000 nuts to only a little over -2,000,000. A disease introduced from Panama also greatly injured a -variety of the banana known as the “manzana.”</p> - -<p>Not, however, until the unfortunate arrival of the “Black Fly,” -discovered in India in 1903, and afterwards in some mysterious way -conveyed to Jamaica, whence it found its way into Cuba in 1915, near -Guantanamo<a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>, did the Government awaken to the fact that it was -confronted by a serious pest that threatened not alone the citrus fruit -industry, but the production of mangoes and also coffee.</p> - -<p>As soon as the Department of Agriculture became aware of the nature of -this new disease, steps were taken to combat it scientifically, and with -all of the resources at the disposal of the Government. An appropriation -of $50,000 was at once granted and afterwards extended to $100,000. With -this fund the Bureau of Plant Sanitation was quickly organized, with a -central office in Havana. Competent inspectors were assigned to the -three principal ports, where supervision over both imports and exports -is conducted.</p> - -<p>Inspectors in each province were installed to investigate the condition -of various crops with special attention given to the Black Fly. Squads -of trained men were organized to combat this pernicious diptera, -especially in the vicinity of the City of Havana, whence the disease had -been brought from Guantanamo. Passengers probably carried infected -mangoes from that city to Vedado, a suburb of the capital, and from this -center the Black Fly spread over a radius of ten miles around the city, -giving the Bureau of Plant Sanitation an infinite amount of trouble.</p> - -<p>Expert entomologists and trained men were brought from Florida to aid in -the eradication of the enemy. A systematic pruning, spraying and general -campaign against the Black Fly has been carried on ever since with more -or less success. Badly infected trees have been cut down and burned, -while gangs of men, organized as “fly fighters,” are conveyed in -automobiles with their apparatus from one orchard to another, keeping up -a continual struggle against this destructive insect.</p> - -<p>In the neighborhood of Guantanamo, where the pest had secured a -foothold, a determined warfare is being waged. This enemy to several of -the best fruits is undoubtedly one of the most difficult to contend with -that<a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a> has appeared in Cuba, but with the expenditure of time, money and -much effort, it will undoubtedly be eradicated.</p> - -<p>The Bureau of Plant Sanitation is under the direction of Dr. Johnson, a -highly trained and energetic official who has devoted the greater part -of his life to the study of plant enemies and to the successful -elimination of the danger and loss that come from them.<a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV<br /><br /> -SUGAR</h2> - -<p>C<small>ONSIDERED</small> from the point of view of agriculture, manufactures or -commerce, Cane is King in Cuba. The sugar crop of 1918, amounting to -25,346,000 bags, or 3,620,857 tons, was sold for over $350,000,000; and -the crop of 1919, consisting of 27,769,662 bags, equivalent to 3,967,094 -tons, will probably realize the sum of $500,000,000. The significance of -these facts may be strikingly appreciated by making a simple comparison. -The Cuban sugar crop of 1919 is worth $200 for every man, woman and -child on the island; while the corn crop of the United States, the most -valuable crop of that country, worth $3,000,000,000, is equal to only -$30 per capita of the population.</p> - -<p>The production and consumption of sugar throughout the world was -practically doubled during the fifteen years preceding the world war. -The total production for 1914 was 18,697,331 tons, of which 8,875,918 -tons came from beets, and 9,821,413 tons from cane. As a consequence of -the war, the world production for 1919 was only 16,354,580 tons, of -which only 4,339,856 tons were obtained from beets, while 12,014,724 -tons were obtained from cane. The crop of 1919 shows, therefore, a gross -shortage of 2,342,751 tons compared with that of 1914, without taking -into account the normal increase in consumption indicated by the -experience of the fifteen years before the war; during which period the -production of cane sugar in Cuba was actually trebled in volume, showing -an average annual increase of approximately 125,000 tons. The production -of sugar in Cuba in 1914 was 2,597,732 tons, and in 1919 it was -3,967,064 tons; showing an average annual increase of about 275,<a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>000 -tons, or approximately seven per cent. These figures, taken with those -of the fifteen preceding years, indicate that the development of the -cane sugar business in Cuba during the past twenty years, or since the -establishment of the Republic, has been of steady growth and healthy -proportions.</p> - -<p>Natural conditions have greatly favored the growing of sugar cane in -Cuba, and the demand for sugar throughout the world has increased so -rapidly that it is not surprising that this industry has become -paramount in the insular Republic. Begun on a small scale and in almost -indescribably primitive fashion nearly four hundred years ago, as -related in the first volume of the History of Cuba, it was not until -near the end of the sixteenth century that the industry was established -on a secure foundation. Even then it received little encouragement from -the Spanish Government, and it was not until the close of the eighteenth -and opening of the nineteenth century that it began to assume the -proportions for which nature had afforded opportunity. With the -emancipation of the island from peninsular rule, however, and the firm -establishment of a government of Cuba by Cubans and for Cubans, the -sugar industry has developed into proportionately one of the greatest in -the world.</p> - -<p>A general impression prevails that practically all of the lands in Cuba -are adapted to the profitable cultivation of sugar cane; that numerous -large and desirably located tracts, suitable in character and sufficient -in area to justify the installation of modern “centrales” or factories -of normal average capacity, are still to be found, scattered throughout -the island and purchasable at nominal cost when compared with their -economic value; and that the annual production of sugar in Cuba can, -therefore, be profitably increased to the extent even of “supplying the -whole world with all the sugar it needs.” This impression is, however, -erroneous and misleading. General James H. Wilson, commanding the -Military Department of Matanzas and Santa Clara under the first<a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a> -Government of Intervention, who was esteemed an authority on the -subject, reported in 1899 that it was a mistake to suppose that all -Cuban lands were of the first quality, such as would grow sugar cane -continuously for twenty or thirty years without replanting; that there -were in fact few such estates in Cuba; that most of the land, whether -red or black soil, produces cane for only twelve or fifteen years, and -much of it for from three to five years only; and that, in the two -provinces named, there was then little new or virgin cane land left, -nearly all of first class quality having at some time been under -cultivation. In this report he did not, however, take into account the -extensive areas of “cienaga” or swamp lands, which would not be -available for cane growing purposes until drained. Since then it has -also been satisfactorily demonstrated that some of the so-called -“savana” land, which has a “mulatto” or yellow soil, hitherto regarded -as worthless for sugar-producing purposes, can be made to produce good -crops of cane by the judicious application of fertilizers and with -suitable methods of cultivation. Sufficient time has not elapsed to -determine the durability of such plantations.</p> - -<p>More conservative opinions, entitled to serious and careful -consideration, have been expressed to the effect that first class new -and virgin cane lands, favorably located and now available, can still be -purchased in Cuba at figures as low as twenty dollars an acre and in -sufficient area to make possible the profitable production of 3,000,000 -tons of sugar above the present output, which approximates 4,000,000 -tons; increasing the total to 7,000,000. It does not seem that such -great areas could easily be hidden under a bushel in as small an island -as Cuba, and it is probable that not more than one half of the total -area of the new lands, purchasable at such a price, would be suitable -for cane-growing purposes; in which case the cost would be raised to -approximately forty dollars an acre for the actual cane-producing area. -If these opinions and claims are accepted, it would seem<a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a> unreasonable -to expect that such large areas of land, yet remaining and now -available, could average as good or prove as economically productive as -the lands now actually under cultivation; and it would not, therefore, -seem unreasonable to assume that to produce 3,000,000 additional tons of -sugar would require an area nearly if not quite as large as that now -required to produce the present annual output of approximately 4,000,000 -tons. It is certainly difficult to believe that the area of land now -producing sugar could be duplicated from the new and virgin lands now -available in Cuba. The recent purchase of considerable acreages along -the line of the newly constructed Northern Railway by the American Sugar -Refining Company and the Czarnikow-Rionda interests, at prices ranging -from seven hundred and fifty to one thousand dollars a caballeria, or -about seventy five dollars an acre, for the actual cane-growing and -sugar-producing area, would seem to emphasize the conclusion that first -class new and virgin cane lands, yet remaining and now available in -Cuba, are not so plentiful or so cheap as claimed by some and generally -supposed.</p> - -<p>The total area of Cuba is estimated at a maximum of about 30,000,000 -acres; and it is probable that not more than ten per cent of this total -area, or 3,000,000 acres, is adapted to and now available for the -profitable cultivation of sugar cane, with sugar at even relatively -normal pre-war average prices. Indeed it is doubtful if even continuance -of the present abnormally high prices for sugar could greatly enlarge -such now available area. Large tracts of the richest lands in Cuba, -favorably conditioned and advantageously located but now covered by -“cienagas” or swamps, can however be effectively and economically -drained and made available for the cultivation of sugar cane; and such -lands when drained should produce sugar more economically and profitably -than any similar area of land in the island now growing cane. The -largest of these swamps are in the Cauto River valley<a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>, in the vicinity -of the Bay of Cardenas, and along the line of the Roque Canal leading -thereto, and in the region covered by the Cienaga de Zapata. The -reclaimable area of these swamp lands is estimated at not less than -750,000 acres.</p> - -<p>Putting the present average annual production of cane in Cuba at 20 long -tons, and the average yield of sugar at 11.25 per cent, or 2.25 tons an -acre, and assuming a gross yearly production of 4,000,000 tons of sugar, -indicates that about 35,000,000 tons of cane are grown upon -approximately 1,750,000 acres of land; and allowing an additional -500,000 acres, to provide for and cover planting, replanting as -pasturage, it would seem that approximately 2,250,000 acres of the best -conditioned and most favorably located cane lands now available are -required to produce the present output of 4,000,000 tons. Careful -consideration of the subject leads to the conclusion that there are not -now available in the island over 500,000 acres of new and virgin lands, -upon which cane can be planted and profitably grown, with sugar at -prices approximating the pre-war ten-year average. But these additional -lands cannot reasonably be expected to average as good or prove as -economically productive as the lands now actually planted with and -growing cane. It should not be unreasonable to allow, for planting, -replanting and pasturage, the additional 250,000 acres required to -complete the estimated 3,000,000 acres given as the probable maximum -area adapted to, and now available for, the profitable cultivation of -cane in Cuba; unless and until the swamp lands, having an area of about -750,000 acres, shall be drained, reclaimed and put under cultivation. -Assuming that the additional 500,000 acres of land now available would -yield in the same proportion as the lands now planted and producing, an -increase of only 1,125,000 tons of sugar yearly would result, which -would raise the total annual production to about 5,125,000 tons. Should -the swamp lands be reclaimed and made productive, upon the same basis of -calculation<a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a> there would be a further increase of only 1,687,500 tons, -bringing the total production of sugar in Cuba up to a maximum of only -6,812,500 tons a year, or at most, in round figures, about 7,000,000 -tons. It seems most improbable that a larger production could be -developed and permanently maintained, unless through fertilization and -improved methods of cultivation, including irrigation; and it appears -doubtful if such measures would more than compensate for the natural -deterioration of soil and exhaustion of lands, that will inevitably -result from long continued cultivation; for much of the lands now under -cultivation will not produce for periods longer than from three to seven -or at most ten years.</p> - -<p>The Cienaga de Zapata is the largest and most easily drainable of the -swamp areas mentioned. It is a vast alluvial plain, built up of the -washings of the most fertile and durable cane growing lands of Cuba, -enriched by the decomposition of the vegetable growth of uncounted -centuries. It has a total area of 15,307 caballerias, or 505,154 acres; -which is greater than the sugar-producing area of the Island of Porto -Rico, or that of the Hawaiian Islands; indeed it is nearly as large as -both combined. The net reclaimable area is not less than 450,000 acres; -which is sufficient to provide cane for thirty “centrales” of 250,000 -bags, or fifteen of 500,000 bags capacity each; equivalent to an output -of 7,500,000 bags, or approximately 1,000,000 tons of sugar a year; the -production of which would be effected under a combination of -advantageous economic conditions not found in the production of sugar -elsewhere in Cuba, if in the world. Chief among these advantageous -conditions are the fertility of the soil, the extent and compactness of -the area of land, its convenient and economical accessibility to a deep -water port, and the fact that the entire area can be irrigated with -water from the drainage canals at a maximum lift of not over ten feet. -The drainage of these lands can be effected entirely by gravity and at a -cost not exceeding<a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a> twenty dollars per acre for the net sugar producing -area. Comprehensive surveys have been made for effecting the drainage of -this great territory by well known American engineers; and a plan -providing for the utilization of the lands, when drained, has been -prepared by Mr. R. G. Ward of New York City, who was one of the chief -factors under Sir William Van Home in the building and putting into -successful operation of the original main line of the Cuba Railroad, -extending from Santa Clara to Santiago. Under the franchises or -concessions controlled by Mr. Ward, the not distant future may, -therefore, see the present output of sugar in Cuba increased by -approximately one-fourth, from the now neglected lands of the Cienaga de -Zapata.</p> - -<p>According to Mr. H. A. Himely, who is a recognized authority on the -subject, 196 “centrales” handled the crop of 1919, amounting to -27,769,662 bags, or 3,967,064 tons of sugar. These “centrales” varied in -output, from a minimum capacity of only 145 to a maximum of 701,768 -bags, showing an average of about 142,000. Hence it is clear that the -word “central” conveys no definite idea of capacity, and constitutes no -exact unit of thought or calculation. Let us, however, assume that the -word applies to a complete modern sugar factory of 250,000 bags yearly -capacity, each bag containing 325 pounds of sugar; an output of -81,250,000 pounds. Factories of such capacity may be installed as single -units or in multiple units. To obtain maximum results it is necessary -that they shall be provided with sufficient areas of suitable land in -one contiguous and reasonably compact body, within easy access of an -economical deep water port, so that the costs of hauling and delivering -the cane to the mill, and of transporting the sugar and molasses to the -port, or shipside, may be reduced to the minimum. Now, of the new and -virgin cane lands still remaining and now available in Cuba, there are -few if any now obtainable which answer to these demands; and it is -questionable if there are yet remaining and<a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a> now available in the island -new and virgin lands in tracts of sufficient size and aggregate area to -warrant the installation of more than twenty “centrales,” having a -combined yearly capacity of 5,000,000 bags. Indeed it is believed that -it would be difficult if not impossible to find desirable and -economically satisfactory locations for even so large a number.</p> - -<p>Wherever possible, virgin forests are cleared and planted for cane -fields, as the accumulated humus of centuries produces a growth of cane -that with care will endure for from five to twenty-five years without -replanting. In Oriente cane fields are still producing good crops which -were planted fifty and even sixty years ago. This method of cane culture -is, however, most uneconomical, since the soil in time will certainly -become exhausted. No plant responds more quickly to judicious and -generous use of fertilizers than does sugar cane; and, according to the -best authorities, no matter how rich the soil may be, it pays to -fertilize.</p> - -<p>In opening up a sugar plantation, the trees are first felled and the -trunks of valuable timber drawn off the land, while the limbs, brush and -other waste materials are piled and burned. Owing to the previous shade -of the trees, the ground is free from weeds, and but little preparation -of the soil is required.</p> - -<p>For the first planting, men with heavy sharp pointed “jique” sticks, -about five feet in length, travel on parallel lines across the fields, -jabbing these stakes into the ground at intervals of four or five feet. -Behind them follow others, bearing sacks of cane cut into short pieces, -containing one or two joints each, a piece of which is thrust into each -hole, and the earth pressed over it with the bare foot. From the eyes of -these sections of cane in the rich, moist earth there quickly rise -shoots or sprouts of cane, and under the influence of the heavy tropical -rains that fall during the summer months the growth is so rapid that the -young cane shades the ground before weeds have time to grow. According -to the usual<a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a> custom of the country, the stumps of trees are left to rot -and enrich the soil. Thus in the course of a few years a plantation is -started at comparatively small cost, from which cane may be cut without -replanting for many years to come.</p> - -<p>Where sugar plantations are developed upon “savana” lands, the rows may -be laid out with greater regularity and cultivated with modern machinery -and implements until the cane has secured sufficient growth. At the -expiration of eighteen months from the first planting, the cane should -be ready for the mill. Cutters, with heavy machetes, go into the fields, -seize the stalks of cane with the left hand, and with one deft blow of -the machete cut them close to the ground. With three or four more -strokes the canes are stripped of their leaves, topped, cut in halves -and thrown into piles, ready to be loaded upon carts and carried to the -mills or railroad stations.</p> - -<p>During recent years hand labor in the fields has been difficult to -secure in Cuba, and since the beginning of the European War the wages of -cane cutters have risen from the usual average of $1.25 to $2.50 and -even as high as $3.00 a day. Cuba has never had a sufficient amount of -resident labor to handle her enormous crops of sugar. Thousands of men -are brought to the Island annually, from Spain, the Azores, the Canary -Islands, Venezuela, Panama and the West India Islands. Most of these -laborers return to their homes at the end of the season, as they can -live there in comfort upon the money earned until the next cane-cutting -season. A machine for cutting cane, to do the work of forty men, has -been invented and in 1918 received practical trial, which is said to -have been fairly satisfactory. It is possible that this and other labor -saving machinery will soon be perfected so that the large number of -field hands now required may thus be replaced, to some extent, and the -cost of cane culture and cutting correspondingly reduced.</p> - -<p>Heavy two wheeled carts, drawn by from four to eight oxen, are still -generally used to convey the cane<a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a> from the fields to the mills or -railroad stations. Plowing, also, is done largely with oxen, although -these are being replaced on the more modern and up to date estates by -traction engines hauling gang plows, and by motor driven trucks for the -transportation of the cane. One of the latter, which was first used in -1918, is provided with several light steel demountable bodies, that are -dropped at convenient places through the cane fields, where they are -loaded and then drawn up again upon the frame of the truck by the power -of the motor. The load of cane is then carried to the mill or loading -station, and the empty body brought back to the field for reloading. -Meanwhile other bodies have been loaded with cane, and the operation is -repeated. Other experiments are being made with trucks of the ordinary -type, mounted upon low wheels carrying so called caterpillar belts, so -that they may be used in wet weather and on soft ground. These -contrivances have not, however, eliminated the ox cart, which still -hauls from the fields over ninety per cent of the cane produced in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Labor plays an important part in the cost of producing sugar in Cuba and -largely determines the profits of the industry. In 1914 the cost of -producing a pound of sugar, in most of the well located and otherwise -favorably conditioned mills in Cuba, was estimated at about two cents; -and in some of the exceptionally favored mills even this figure left a -margin of profit. But with the rapid rise in wages following the -outbreak of the European War, and the consequent increase of expense of -cultivating, cutting and handling cane, the cost of making sugar has -become increasingly difficult to determine, as the wage rate may vary, -both from day to day, and also in the different sections of the island, -where labor may be scarce or plentiful.</p> - -<p>The urgent demand for sugar brought about by the European War caused -many fields to be planted with cane the soils of which were not suited -for the purpose. Mills were also erected at several places in districts -not<a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a> favored by nature for sugar production. Later, when the selling -price of sugar was fixed by the Sugar Commission appointed for that -purpose, these less fortunately situated mills, compelled as they were -to pay practically double the usual amounts for labor, found little if -any profit remaining at the end of the year’s operations. Those mills -favored by fertile lands and good locations yielded and continue to -yield excellent returns upon the capital invested, in spite of the -increased cost of labor.</p> - -<p>In Cuba two altogether different methods are employed for planting, -cultivating, cutting and delivering cane to the mills or loading -stations, known, respectively, as the “Administration” and the “Colono” -systems. Under the Administration system the work is directed by the -management of the enterprise, and all labor and other expenses involved -are paid by the owners of the property. Less than ten per cent of the -cane annually produced is grown and delivered by this system. More than -ninety per cent is, therefore, grown and delivered by the Colono system, -which constitutes the distinctive feature of Cuban agriculture so far as -it relates to the production of sugar. The system differs from the usual -tenant-farming system in that there is no agreed sharing of the crop or -fixed cash rental paid by the Colono to the landlord, in cases where the -Colono is not himself the proprietor of the land in question. The system -applies alike to lands owned by the enterprise, privately owned, or -leased by the enterprise or the Colono; the terms and conditions varying -slightly in each case. By a process of bargaining, based upon local -conditions, the Colono gets from 4½% to 8%, with a probable average -of 6¼%, of the weight of cane grown and delivered, in sugar, or its -value in cash. That is to say, for every 100 pounds of cane grown and -delivered by him he would get an average of 6¼ pounds of sugar, or -its market value, in cash. Deducting the 6¼ pounds, paid as an -average to the Colono, from the<a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a> 11¼ pounds, given as the average -yield of sugar, leaves only 5 pounds to the enterprise, out of which all -expenses must be paid before profits or dividends can be shown. -Moreover, under this system, any reduction in the yield of sugar would -fall entirely upon the enterprise until it reached the 6¼% payable, -on an average, to the Colono. As an illustration, take the crop of 1918 -and 1919, amounting to 4,000,000 tons of sugar; about 2,222,225 tons -went to the Colono, to cover the “cost of cane,” while only 1,777,775 -tons went to the enterprise to cover all other expenses and provide for -dividends upon the capital invested: and, should the yield of sugar have -fallen one per cent, equivalent to 355,555 tons, the Colono would have -received the same, while the enterprise would have received only -1,422,220 tons—and so on, until the enterprise would get nothing at -all, although the earnings of the Colono would remain unchanged.</p> - -<p>The system is, therefore, well named, for the Colono receives first -consideration, while the enterprise carries the burden and accepts all -risks; against which the advantage of a possible abnormal yield is -certainly an inadequate compensation. Furthermore the mill owners -generally assume the burden and risk of “financing” their Colonos; -frequently advancing credits of from three to five times the amounts -contributed by the Colono himself. However, with all its disadvantages, -the Colono system is likely to prevail for some time to come, as it is -doubtful if, under existing labor conditions, the large tonnage of cane -now required could otherwise be obtained. The “guajiro,” or cane-cutter, -is the autocrat of the situation; he knows he is scarce and, therefore, -believes that he is indispensable. As a result, his efficiency has -fallen from three and a quarter to two and a quarter tons a day; while -his earnings, on a tonnage basis, have risen from 150% to 200%, when -compared with pre-war conditions. The only solution for this unfavorable -situation seems to depend upon the provision of continuous<a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a> employment -for labor, and the effecting of a rearrangement of the Colono system so -as to permit of the performance of all heavy work, such as plowing and -preparing the lands for planting, and hauling the cane from the fields, -by the owners of the sugar-producing properties. They can afford to -equip their establishments for the doing of such work upon a large and -comprehensive scale, that will accomplish an indirect reduction in the -present cost of producing and delivering cane to the mills, which, while -increasing the profits of the Mill Owners, will not reduce the net -earnings of labor or of the Colono.</p> - -<p>Natural conditions combine to favor the production of sugar in Cuba. -Ample rains, so essential to the growth of cane, fall during the summer -season while the cane is growing; and during the rest of the year the -weather is sufficiently cool to bring about the complete ripening of the -cane and the formation of its sucrose content, and to make possible the -easy harvesting and handling of the cane in the fields, and its -economical conveyance to the “centrales.” Careless and uneconomical -methods have heretofore prevailed in the treatment of soils and in the -cultivation of cane, which will undoubtedly be remedied in due course of -time.</p> - -<p>Under a more intensive system of cultivation, assisted by a better -selection of seed, and the judicious and generous employment of -fertilizers, including irrigation, wherever practicable, the position of -Cuba as the largest and most economical producer of sugar in the world -will be permanently assured.</p> - -<p>No account of the sugar industry of Cuba would be complete which failed -to make special mention of some of the most notable enterprises now -existing in that Island; or of the men mainly responsible for their -inception and development. Taking them in the order of their productive -capacity, the following list covers the most important of such -properties:<a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:.8em;"> -<tr><td> </td><td align="center"><i>Mills</i></td> -<td align="center"><i>Bags</i></td> -<td align="center"><i>Percentage</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="center"><i>Controlled</i></td> -<td align="right"><i>Produced</i></td><td align="right"><i>of Crops</i></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cuba Cane Sugar Corp</td><td align="right">17</td><td align="right">4,319,189</td><td align="right">15.59</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cuban-American Sugar Co</td><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">1,938,368</td><td align="right">7.00</td></tr> -<tr><td>Rionda Properties</td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">1,856,563</td><td align="right">6.60</td></tr> -<tr><td>United Fruit Co</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">776,045</td><td align="right">2.80</td></tr> -<tr><td>Atkins Properties</td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">736,043</td><td align="right">2.66</td></tr> -<tr><td>Poté Rodriguez Properties</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">625,054</td><td align="right">2.29</td></tr> -<tr><td>West Indies Sugar Finance Corp</td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">619,204</td><td align="right">2.23</td></tr> -<tr><td>Gomez-Mena Properties</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">605,000</td><td align="right">2.19</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cuba Company Properties</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">587,800</td><td align="right">2.12</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mendoza-Cunagua Property</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">452,583</td><td align="right">1.64</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation was organized in 1915, to acquire and -operate eighteen sugar properties upon which options had been obtained -by Don Manuel Rionda, head of the long established sugar brokerage firm -called the Czarnikow-Rionda Company, of New York City; who, though for -many years a resident of the United States, still clings to his Spanish -citizenship. Shortly after the organization of the corporation another -large sugar property, including a railroad leading to a port on the -Caribbean Sea, was acquired; but soon thereafter one of the original -properties purchased was sold and another was dismantled, so that -seventeen is the actual number now owned and operated by the -corporation. Mr. Rionda deserved and received great credit for having -negotiated, organized and launched the Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, as -and when he did; and the great success which almost immediately attended -its consummation brought him great prestige and made him at once a -dominant factor in and authority upon matters relating to sugar. It is -immaterial that the eminence achieved was due largely, if not entirely, -to the successive rises in the price of sugar, which applied especially -to the crops of 1916, 1917 and 1919; for nothing succeeds like success.</p> - -<p>The Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation was organized and financed upon the -strength of a letter written by Mr. Rionda to Messrs. J. & W. Seligman & -Co., of New York, on December 16, 1915, in which he made an “estimate<a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a> -that, with sugar at the lowest, say 2 cents per pound, the Corporation -would earn at least 1½ times the dividends on its preferred stock.” -The f. o. b. production cost for the crop of 1915 and 1916, immediately -following, was reported as 2.748 cents per pound, notwithstanding the -fact that the sellers of the properties acquired had paid the so-called -dead season expenses. It is clear, therefore, that, “with sugar at its -lowest, say 2 cents per pound,” the first year’s operations of the -corporation would have shown an operating deficit of 0.748 cents per -pound, instead of earning “at least 1½ times the dividends on its -preferred stock,” as estimated by Mr. Rionda. The large gross operating -profits reported for the first year’s operations were, therefore, due in -part to the exclusion of the dead season expenses, but mainly to the -rise in price of sugar, from 2 cents per pound in July, 1915, to an -average of 4.112 cents per pound during the crop season of 1915 and -1916. Such profits might possibly be creditable to Mr. Rionda’s business -acumen, but it cannot be justly claimed that they were due to the -infallibility of his original estimates, or to his demonstrated -administrative capacity for the successful handling of so large and -complex an enterprise, the physical conditions of which make -administrative co-ordination extremely difficult and expensive. -Nevertheless, he has profited by the experience of succeeding years, and -shows an increasing capacity for coping with the numerous and -complicated problems involved in the administration of the largest sugar -producing enterprise in the world; and it is generally conceded that the -abnormally large profits now earned by the corporation, as the result of -further rises in the price of sugar, will provide for the readjustments -of and cover the improvements to the various properties comprised, that -are necessary to put the property, taken as a whole, upon an absolutely -satisfactory and permanently impregnable footing, physically and -financially. This goal is known to accord with Mr. Rionda’s ardent -desire, as constituting the consummation<a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a> of his most commendable -aspirations, and the crowning glory of his achievements. It is intimated -that he will then, and not until then, retire from the field of his -activities, in which he has played so conspicuous a role.</p> - -<p>The Cuban-American Sugar Company was incorporated in 1906, as a holding -company, to acquire the entire capital stock of five independent -companies then engaged in the cultivation of sugar cane and the -manufacture of raw and refined sugar in the Island of Cuba. Other -properties were acquired in 1908, and again in 1910, including a -refinery located at Gramercy, Louisiana. On September 30, 1918, the -Company owned 504,391 acres of land, of which 157,000 acres or 31 per -cent were planted with cane. It also leased 16,713 acres of land, of -which 7,825 acres or 47 per cent were under cultivation. Thus there was -a total of owned and leased lands of 521,104 acres, of which 164,825 -acres or 32 per cent were producing cane. The Cuban-American Sugar -Company was for years the largest sugar producing enterprise in the -world, until the organization of the Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, which -alone out-ranks it. It has grown out of the Chaparra Sugar Company, now -one of its subsidiary companies; which was organized shortly after the -conclusion of the Spanish-American War by State Senator Robert B. -Hawley, of Galveston, Texas, who at the very beginning employed as his -confidential representative and manager of the Chaparra property General -Mario G. Menocal, now President of the Cuban Republic but still regarded -as the actual General Manager of the Cuban-American Company’s properties -in Cuba. The capabilities, enterprise and industry of these two men, and -the warm personal as well as cordial business relations established and -maintained between them, made it not only possible but easy for each to -supplement and co-operate with the other; and to those conditions the -great success of the Cuban-American Sugar Company is attributed. While -it is true that<a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a> this Company, like all others, has profited greatly by -the high prices resulting from the War, it is also true that the -foundations of the success that has been attained by it were laid by the -courageous enterprise and perfected by the untiring industry of Mr. -Hawley, made effective in Cuba by the energetic and loyal co-operation -of General Menocal and his large following of patriotic Cuban compadres, -without whose assistance no sugar producing enterprise in Cuba has ever -been or will ever be a complete success. Indeed it is largely because of -the wise recognition of and sympathetic relations established with the -Cuban people by Mr. Hawley that the securities of the Cuban-American -Sugar Company are quoted in the markets of the world at higher figures -than those of any other sugar producing enterprise.</p> - -<p>The Rionda Properties are seven in number, comprising five estates which -are in effect the personal property of Don Manuel Rionda, his relatives -and family associates, and two others in which he is the controlling -factor. All of these properties are operated as separate and independent -units, or as individual or one-man enterprises, in the development and -supervision of which few have equaled and none have been more successful -than Mr. Rionda. Part of this success has been due to the fact that -during the creative period these independent properties have been as a -rule under the management of members of his own family, prominent among -whom were two nephews, Don Leandro J. Rionda and Don José B. Rionda, -both capable men, who grew up with the properties they came to -administer, thus acquiring that close personal touch with employees and -conditions which is so desirable an asset, but which is unfortunately -lost to the larger enterprises, and who rendered to their uncle, Don -Manuel, the loyalty he had inspired in them and so richly deserved at -their hands. In such circumstances it is not to be wondered at that -success of a high order has attended their co-operative efforts. Mr. -Rionda has no children of his own and it is probably for this reason<a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a> -that so close an affection and so intimate business relations exist -between him and his two nephews and the fine sugar producing properties -they have developed under his auspices.</p> - -<p>The United Fruit Company entered the sugar business through an accident; -and yet it is the only company that combines all the essentials for -producing, transporting and refining sugar. Shortly after the conclusion -of the Spanish-American War, the Company acquired the Banes property, -and also a large tract of land on the Bahia de Nipé, now known as the -Nipé Bay property, upon both of which bananas were planted on an -extensive scale. But it was soon discovered that atmospheric conditions -in that part of Cuba were unfavorable to the successful production of -bananas. Therefore in order to utilize the lands which it had acquired -the Company planted them with cane and began the production of sugar; it -was of course already a transportation company; and now it has built a -refinery in Boston, to which its raw sugar is shipped from Cuba on its -own steamers, and there refined; thus completing the cycle of operations -from planting the cane to marketing the product. No other sugar -producing enterprise has ever gone into the business upon such -comprehensive lines. Such however are the lines upon which everything -undertaken by Andrew W. Preston and Minor C. Keith, the directing -geniuses of that company, is planned and projected; which largely -accounts for the enviable success that has always crowned their efforts.</p> - -<p>The Atkins Properties comprise one property belonging to Mr. Edward F. -Atkins, of Boston, who is reputed to be the first American to have -acquired a sugar property in Cuba, and three others belonging to or -controlled by the Punta Alegre Sugar Company, the most active -personality connected with which is Mr. Robert W. Atkins. The Punta -Alegre Sugar Company was incorporated, in 1915, as a holding and -operating company, engaged in the business of owning and operating<a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a> -sugar plantations and factories in the Island of Cuba. It owns and -controls 40,831 acres and leases 25,717 acres of land; and is reported -to be doubling the capacity of its central at Punta Alegre. Credit for -the suggestion and initiative that resulted in the combination of these -properties and the organization of this Company is generally given to -Mr. Ezra J. Barker (Ray Barker) of New York, and Major Maude, a retired -British Army officer who for many years has resided in Cuba. The -prestige and financial standing of the officers and directors of and of -the capitalists interested in the Punta Alegre Sugar Company and the -Atkins Properties is sufficient to guarantee the successful operation of -these properties.</p> - -<p>The Poté Rodriguez Properties are the personal property of Don José -Lopez Rodriguez, who is a Spanish subject residing in Havana, and known -to every body as “Poté.” Some say that this nickname is an abbreviation -of the word “poder,” or “power.” Certain it is that Don Poté Rodriguez -is, in fact, a human dynamo, the very embodiment of power and push. -Beginning as a book-seller, stationer and printer, on Obispo Street, -Havana, where he still conducts that business and makes his -headquarters, he has, in recent years, acquired a controlling interest -in the Banco Nacional de Cuba, a corporation having a capital of -$8,000,000; he has also invested several millions of dollars in an -elaborate suburban annex to the city of Havana, including a large -Portland cement plant; he has contracted to dig the Roque Canal, -projected to drain the Jovellanos Flats and part of the Cienaga or swamp -lands near Cardenas; and he is the sole owner of the Central España, the -pride of his heart, upon which he has worked day and night for years, -hoping to make it the largest producing sugar “central” in Cuba. But -despite his efforts three other “centrales” surpass it in productive -capacity.</p> - -<p>The West Indies Sugar Finance Corporation is a protege if not actually a -subsidiary of the B. H. Howell-Cuban-American-National<a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a> Sugar Refining -Company group, which under the intelligent and experienced direction of -Mr. H. Edson, of New York City, has come to be a factor of prime -importance in the sugar business in Cuba. It is claimed that the tonnage -of cane obtained from the lands of one of the properties owned by this -Corporation in the season of 1918-19 averaged higher than that of any -other sugar producing property in Cuba; and that the average yield of -sugar was as good as the best. The splendidly economical milling plants -at Tinguaro, Chaparra and Delicias were installed under Mr. Edson’s -direction, and it is reasonable to assume that the mills of his own -corporation are equally efficient. Few men interested in the sugar -business in Cuba have had a broader, more varied or more useful -experience; and there are none whose judgment as to the value of cane -lands and sugar properties is more to be relied upon.</p> - -<p>The Gomez-Mena Properties were united and built up by Don Antonio -Gomez-Mena, a Spanish subject, who has resided for many years in Cuba, -where he developed a large mercantile business in the city of Havana; -out of the profits of which he began the building of the well known -Manzaña de Gomez-Mena, or Gomez-Mena Block, which has recently been -completed by his heirs; and also acquired and developed the two sugar -properties with which his name is identified, and which are now owned by -his son, Don Andres Gomez-Mena. These “centrales,” known as Amistad and -Gomez-Mena, and located respectively near Guines and San Nicolas, in the -southeastern part of the Province of Havana are of special interest -since on them more clearly than elsewhere in Cuba are practically -demonstrated the benefits to be derived from irrigation and the value of -cienaga or swamp lands when drained and reclaimed. When Señor Gomez-Mena -purchased the properties they were regarded as of little value, because -a large part of the area consisted of swamp lands, carrying an excess of -water,<a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a> while the balance was composed of higher lands of a character so -dry as to be practically valueless for purposes of agriculture. It was -rightly reasoned that both of these difficulties could be overcome. So -the wet lands were drained and the dry lands were irrigated; with the -result that these two properties are now regarded as among the most -profitably productive sugar estates in Cuba; relative areas, of course, -being taken into consideration.</p> - -<p>The Cuba Company Properties were developed by Sir William C. Van Home -for the purpose primarily of providing traffic for the newly constructed -Cuba Railroad; which fact accounts for their location along that line, -remote from shipping ports, at a time when more desirable locations -could have been acquired, looked at from the point of view of economical -sugar production. Nevertheless both of these properties seem to have -paid well upon the capital invested in them, while at the same time -contributing handsomely to swell the revenues of the Cuba Railroad; all -of which speaks well for the sagacity and enterprise of Sir William Van -Home, and increases the credit to which he is justly entitled.</p> - -<p>The Mendoza Cunagua Property differs from all other sugar producing -properties in Cuba in that it was projected, developed and built up as a -complete whole, from start to finish, by a group of Cuban capitalists -dominated by members of the well known and highly respected Mendoza -family; the most active personalities in the enterprise being Don -Antonio and Don Miguel Mendoza. Considered in every feature and detail, -the Central Cunagua Property is probably the most complete and most -perfectly appointed and equipped cane growing and sugar producing -establishment that was ever created as the result of one continuous and -comprehensive effort; Don Antonio Mendoza having the credit for its -accomplishment. At Cunagua more than any where else in connection with -the growing of cane and the production of sugar does the human equation -receive prime consideration<a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>, as compared with the beasts of the field, -or the machinery of the factory; all of which are, however, looked upon -as assets and are well cared for. So well and thoroughly, indeed, was -all of this planned and accomplished, and so promisingly did everything -point towards a future rich with reward, honestly earned and well -deserved by the creators of this splendid property, that it is in a -sense regrettable to have to add that the Central Cunagua Property has -recently been sold to the American Sugar Refining Company of New York -City; which company has also acquired additional lands in its vicinity, -upon which a duplicate of the Central Cunagua will be installed.</p> - -<p>There are many other meritorious cane growing and sugar producing -enterprises in Cuba, that are deserving of consideration; but which -cannot be satisfactorily described within the space here available for -the purpose. It must suffice to add that of the total sugar produced in -Cuba during the season of 1918 and 1919, amounting to 27,747,704 bags, -13,587,733 bags or 49.04 per cent were produced by sixty-five properties -owned or controlled by American interests, and 14,159,971 bags or 50.96 -per cent were produced by one hundred and thirty-one properties owned or -controlled by Cuban and European interests. It may not be amiss also to -call attention to the fact that the sugar crop of Cuba, for the season -of 1918-19 amounted to nearly one-fourth of the total sugar production -of the world. If allowance is made for the normal average increase in -consumption of sugar, as indicated by experience during the fifteen -years just before the European War, the world’s production of sugar for -the year 1919 should have been 21,813,551 tons, while in fact it -amounted to only 16,354,580 tons. This shows that the actual net -shortage in the world’s production of sugar amounted to 5,458,971 tons -instead of the 2,342,751 tons commonly mentioned, the latter figures -representing only the difference in production between the years 1914 -and 1919. This indicates that<a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a> there are no grounds for apprehension on -the part of anyone contemplating investing in desirable property in -Cuba, as to the world’s production overtaking the world’s consumption of -sugar for a number of years to come. The economic position of Cuba as -the premier sugar-producing country of the world may therefore be -confidently regarded as secure.<a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI<br /><br /> -TOBACCO</h2> - -<p>T<small>HIS</small> strangely hypnotic leaf of the night-shade family seems to have -originated in the Western Hemisphere, and that variety familiar to -commerce, known as the Nicotina Tabacum, was in popular use among the -aborigines of the West Indies, Mexico and the greater part at least of -the North American continent, probably for thousands of years before the -written history of man began.</p> - -<p>Christopher Columbus and his followers noted the fact that the Indians -of Cuba wrapped the clippings from peculiar aromatic dark brown leaves -in little squares of corn husks, which they rolled and smoked with -apparent pleasure. It did not take long for the Spanish conquerors to -fall into the habit of the kindly natives who received them and who -almost immediately offered them cigars in token of welcome to the Island -of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Tobacco was grown at that time in nearly all parts of the Island. Rumor -soon circulated, however, that the best weed was grown only in the -extreme western end of Cuba, known today as the Vuelta Abajo, or down -turn, and the report proved true, since only in Pinar del Rio is grown -the superior quality of leaf that has made that section famous -throughout the world. Neither has careful study or analysis of soils -betrayed the secret of this superiority over tobacco grown in other -parts of the Island.</p> - -<p>The choice tobaccos of the Vuelta Abajo are grown in a restricted -section of which the City of Pinar del Rio is the approximate center. -The whole area of the Vuelta will not exceed thirty miles from east to -west, nor is it<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a> more than ten miles from north to south. And even in -this favored district, the really choice tobacco is grown in little -“vegas,” or fields, comprising usually a small oasis from three to -fifteen acres in extent, in which a very high grade of tobacco may be -grown, while adjoining lands, similar in appearance, but lacking in the -one magic quality which produces the desired aroma and flavor, are -largely wanting. The prices obtained for the tobacco grown on these -favored “vegas” seem almost incredible. A bale of this tobacco, weighing -between 80 and 90 pounds, will readily sell at from $100 to $500.</p> - -<p>When one considers that with the use of cheese cloth as a protection -from cut worms, from eight to twelve bales are taken from an acre, -valued at $200 each, which means a return of approximately $2,000 per -acre for each crop, the importance of the tobacco crop in Vuelta Abajo -may be appreciated.</p> - -<p>The value of an acre of any land that will return $2,000 annually to the -grower, at 10% interest on invested capital, would be $20,000. It is -needless to state that this price for tobacco lands, even in Vuelta -Abajo, does not prevail. It is nevertheless true, that many first-class -vegas of tobacco are held at prices that place them practically beyond -the reach of purchase.</p> - -<p>In spite of the undoubted profits of tobacco growing in Cuba, the -condition of the “veguero,” as far as financial prosperity is concerned, -is far from enviable. As a rule, while knowing how to grow tobacco, he -does not know, nor does he care to learn, how to grow anything else. All -of his energy and time are devoted to the seed bed, the transplanting, -the cultivation, cutting, and curing of the leaf. He seldom owns the -soil on which the crop is grown, and usually prefers to be a -“Partidario” or grower of tobacco on shares with the owner.</p> - -<p>The owner furnishes the land, the seed, the working animals and what is -more important still, credit at the nearest grocery or general store, on -which the family lives during the entire year, and for which the -interest<a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a> paid in one form or another constitutes a burden from which -the “veguero” seldom escapes. The latter furnishes the labor, time, care -and knowledge necessary to bring the crop to a successful termination. -When the tobacco is sold, the “veguero” receives his part of the -returns, pays his bills, and usually invests the remainder in lottery -tickets and fighting chickens.</p> - -<p>The life of the tobacco plant, from transplanting to the time in which -it is due and removed from the fields, is only about ninety days. The -selected seed is sown in land on which brush or leaves have been -previously burned, destroying injurious insect life, while furnishing -the required potash to the soil. The seed beds are known as “semilleros” -and are carefully tended until the plants are five or six inches in -height, when they are removed and carried to the “vega,” previously -prepared with an abundance of stable manure or other fertilizer, well -rotted and plowed in. In three months’ time, with care and careful -cultivation, a crop will be ready for cutting and curing.</p> - -<p>The semilleros are prepared usually during the latter part of September, -or early October, when the fall showers are still plentiful. By the -first of January, if the plants have had sufficient growth and the -weather is cool, clear and dry, the leaves are cut in pairs, either -united to the stalk or connected by needle and heavy thread, and -afterwards strung over a bamboo or light pole known as a “cuje.”</p> - -<p>To each “cuje” are assigned two hundred and twenty pairs of leaves. -These are carried to the tobacco barns, with sides built usually of -rough board slabs, above which is a tall sharp roof, made from the -leaves of the guana palm. Only one or two openings are placed in each -tobacco barn to admit the required amount of air, while the tobacco, -still supported on poles, goes through a process of curing, which the -experienced “veguero” watches with care.</p> - -<p>At the proper time the crop is removed from the poles<a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a> and done up in -“mantules” or bundles, which are afterwards delivered to the -“escogidos,” where tobacco experts select and grade the leaves in -accordance with their size and condition. After this they are baled and -incased in “yagua,” a name given to the broad, tough base of the royal -palm leaves, and sent to Havana or other central mart for sale. Tobacco -buyers from all over the world come to Havana every fall to purchase -their supplies of raw material for manufacture into cigars and -cigarettes.</p> - -<p>Excellent tobacco is grown also in the Valley of Vinales, and may be -successfully cultivated in nearly all of the valleys, pockets and basins -that lie in the mountains of Western and Northern Pinar del Rio. This -tobacco as a rule is graded in quality and price a little below that of -the choice Vuelta Abajo center.</p> - -<p>Along the line of the Western Railroad, extending east from Consolacion -del Sur to Artemisa, tobacco is also grown on the rolling lands and -among the foothills that lie between the railroad and the southern edge -of the Organ Mountains. This section, some fifty miles in length, with -an average width of five or six miles, in which tobacco forms quite an -important product, is known as the Semi-Vuelta or Partido district. Its -leaf, however, brings in the open market only about half the sum -received for the Vuelta Abajo. Nevertheless, at all points in this -section where irrigation is possible, the culture of tobacco, especially -when grown under cheese cloth, is profitable.</p> - -<p>Again, along the banks of several rivers south and east of the City of -Pinar del Rio, especially along the Rio Hondo, a very good quality of -tobacco is grown in the sandy lands rendered fertile by frequent -overflow of these streams in the rainy season as they pass through the -level lands of the southern plains.</p> - -<p>The chief enemies of the tobacco plant are some five or six varieties of -worms that cut and eat the leaves. The larvae are hatched from the eggs -of different kinds<a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a> of moths that hover over the tobacco fields at -night. Some are hatched from egg deposits on the plant itself, and at -once begin eating the leaf, while others enter the ground during the -day, coming out during the evening to feed, and no field unless -protected by cheese cloth, or carefully watched by the patient veguero, -can escape serious damage or complete destruction from these enemies of -tobacco. It is a common thing at sundown to see the father, mother and -all members of the family big enough to walk, down on hands and knees, -hunting and killing tobacco worms. On bright moonlight nights, the worm -hunt is carried on assiduously, and in the early hours of dawn the -veguero and his family, if the crop is to be a success, must be up like -the early bird and after the worm, otherwise there will be nothing to -sell at the end of the season.</p> - -<p>Even with the greatest care, the worms will take a pretty heavy toll out -of almost any field, and to save this loss, the system of covering -tobacco fields with cheese cloth was introduced into Cuba from the State -of Florida, some twenty years ago. Posts, or comparatively slender -poles, are planted through the field at regular intervals, usually -sixteen feet apart. From the tops of these, galvanized wire is strung -from pole to pole, in squares, while over this is spread a specially -manufactured cheese cloth or tobacco cloth, usually woven in strips of a -width convenient to fit the distance between the poles. The seams are -caught together with sail needles and cord, making a complete canopy -that not only covers the field but has side walls dropping from the -white roof to the ground below. Screen doors or gates are built in the -side walls, so that mules with cultivators may pass through and work -under these great white canopies, which protect the growing plants from -the cut worm and save the poor old veguero and his family from the bane -of their lives. The cost of poles, wire and covering cloth, under normal -conditions, is about $300 per acre, and when to this are added several -carloads of manure or<a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a> other fertilizer, the expense of covering, -fertilizing, cultivating and caring for an acre of tobacco will easily -reach $500, whence the deduction that tobacco crops must bring a good -price in Cuba is evident.</p> - -<p>As a result of these huge tent-like canopies, that frequently cover -hundreds of acres, every leaf is perfect, and if of sufficient size and -fineness, may be used as a wrapper. When one takes into consideration -the fact that a “cuje,” or 220 pairs of leaves strung on a pole, is -worth from $4 to $5, and that the same leaves when perforated by worms, -can be used only as cigar fillers, worth from 75¢ to $1.35 per “cuje,” -the advantage of cheese cloth covering to a tobacco field becomes -evident. Owing to lack of capital, however, the small native farmer -usually is compelled to do without cheese cloth, and to rely upon the -laborious efforts of himself and his family, to keep the worm pest from -absolutely ruining his crop.</p> - -<p>The tobacco industry at the present time commercially ranks next to -sugar. The total value of the crop in 1917 approximated $50,000,000, of -which $30,000,000 was exported to foreign countries. Of the exportations -of that year, the largest item consisted of the leaf itself, packed in -bales numbering 291,618, valued at $19,169,455; cigars, 111,909,685 -valued at $9,548,933; cigarettes, 12,047,530 packages, valued at -$406,208; picadura or smoking tobacco, 261,461 kilos, valued at -$251,874. There were 258,994,800 cigars during the same year consumed in -Cuba, with an approximate value of $12,000,000; of cigarettes, -355,942,855 packages, valued at $7,830,742; and of picadura, 393,833 -pounds valued at $196,719. During the four years inclusive from 1913 to -1917 the value of exported tobacco increased a little over $6,000,000, -while domestic consumption increased about one-half or $3,000,000.</p> - -<p>In the various factories of cigars and cigarettes of Havana, some 18,000 -men and 7,000 women are employed. In other sections of the Island, -outside of the capital, some 16,000 men and 13,000 women are engaged in -the<a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a> manufacture of cigars and cigarettes, making a total of 34,000 men -and 20,000 women employed in the tobacco industry, aside from those who -are engaged in tobacco cultivation in the fields of the various -provinces.<a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII<br /><br /> -HENEQUEN</h2> - -<p>N<small>EXT</small> to the “Manila hemp” of the Philippines, which is really a variety -of the banana, the henequen of Yucatan is probably the most important -cordage plant in the world. The name henequen is of Aztec origin, and -the plant itself, a variety of the agave or century plant family, is -indigenous to Yucatan, whence it has been introduced not only into other -sections of Mexico but also into Cuba, Central America and the west -coast of South America. No satisfactory substitute has been found for -henequen in the manufacturing of binder twine, so essential to the -harvesting of the big grain crops in the Western States of America.</p> - -<p>Revolutions in Mexico following the overthrow of Porfirio Diaz succeeded -for a time at least in paralyzing if not destroying the sisal industry -that had made Yucatan celebrated throughout the world and had caused -Merida to be known as a city of millionaires; and shortly before the -beginning of the great European War, men who had devoted their lives to -henequen culture and who feared that Mexico could no longer be relied on -for this product, began to look over the Cuban field for opportunity for -the more extensive cultivation of the plant.</p> - -<p>A superficial survey convinced them that large areas of soft lime rock -land, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, furnishing all the -elements essential to the successful growth of henequen, were to be had -in Cuba. Similar soils are found in Yucatan, where the average annual -rainfall and general climatic conditions are so nearly like those of -Cuba that it is fairly to be assumed that a crop which will do well in -the one land will also flourish in the other. In consequence, large -areas, in which Cuban,<a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a> Spanish and American capitalists are -interested, have been planted with henequen in Cuba.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">THE GOMEZ BUILDING</p> -<p>One of the finest business buildings in Havana is the great Gomez -Building, which occupies an entire block fronting upon the beautiful -Central Park and reached by way of the Prado. Although only five stories -in height, it vies in appearance and commodiousness with the best -business buildings in any American city. Its site was well chosen for -the display of its handsome architecture and commanding proportions, and -it stands in proximity to the National Theatre and other noteworthy -structures. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip190_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip190_sml.jpg" width="532" height="342" alt="THE GOMEZ BUILDING - -One of the finest business buildings in Havana is the great Gomez -Building, which occupies an entire block fronting upon the beautiful -Central Park and reached by way of the Prado. Although only five stories -in height, it vies in appearance and commodiousness with the best -business buildings in any American city. Its site was well chosen for -the display of its handsome architecture and commanding proportions, and -it stands in proximity to the National Theatre and other noteworthy -structures." /></a> -</p> - -<p>The first planting on a large scale was done by the Carranza Brothers, -of Havana, just south of the city of Matanzas, about twenty years ago; -Don Luis Carranza having married a daughter of Don Olegario Molino, of -Yucatan, and thus having become interested in the characteristic -industry of the latter country. A company of Germans afterward purchased -the property and close by the railroad station erected a very complete -plant for the decortication of the henequen and the manufacture of its -fibre into rope and cordage of all sizes, from binder twine to -twelve-inch cables. From this establishment for years the Cuban demand -was chiefly supplied.</p> - -<p>Shortly after Cuba, in 1917, followed the United States in declaring war -against Germany, the Spanish Bank of Havana purchased this property from -the owners, and at once increased its capital stock to six millions of -dollars; two and a half million preferred and three and a half million -common stock. At the present time the estate consists of three -plantations on which henequen is grown, located at Matanzas, Ytabo and -Nuevitas, with a total area of 120 caballerias or 4,000 acres of land. -It is said that owing to the demands of the European War, and the rise -of the price from 7¢ to 19½¢ per pound, the net returns of the -Matanzas Cordage Company the first year after purchasing the estate -amounted to $800,000.</p> - -<p>The International Harvester Company of the United States has purchased a -tract of 3,300 acres of excellent henequen land near the city of -Cardenas, on the north coast of the province of Matanzas, for experiment -and demonstration, and under the direction of Yucatecos familiar with -the industry has planted it in henequen. This action was taken by this -company largely because of the uncertain and unsatisfactory conditions -of the henequen industry in Yucatan, caused by Mexican revolutions and -the arbitrary conduct of Mexican officials.<a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a> In the year 1916, -444,400,000 pounds of henequen were exported from the Gulf ports of -Mexico and sold almost entirely in the United States, at 15¢ per pound, -since which time the price has risen to 19½¢ per pound. This -unprecedented figure was brought about by the practical seizure of the -Yucatan crop by ex-Governor Alvarado, who allowed the actual growers -only 7¢ per pound for the sisal, he appropriating the difference between -that and the market price in New York.</p> - -<p>Twenty more caballerias or 666 acres of henequen are owned by -independent parties in the neighborhood of Nuevitas, on the north coast -of the Province of Camaguey. The Director-General of Posts and -Telegraph, Colonel Charles Hernandez, with a few associates, has -purchased 175,000 acres along the southern shore of the Little Zapata, -that forms the extreme western end of Pinar del Rio. It is proposed to -establish here large plantations of henequen, that will give employment -to many natives of the tobacco district who are now out of work during -some seasons of the year.</p> - -<p>The City of Cardenas, on the north coast, promises soon to become -another great henequen center, and the traveler riding west over the -main automobile drive leading out of Cardenas may view a panorama of -growing henequen spread out on both sides of the road as far as the eye -can reach. The peculiar bluish green of this plant growth, dotted with -royal palms, adds an odd color effect to the landscape, not easily -forgotten.</p> - -<p>Putting the maximum annual production of henequen or sisal hemp in -Yucatan at 1,200,000 bales, of 400 pounds to the bale, and assuming an -average yield of three bales per acre, indicates that about 400,000 -acres of land are actually producing hemp in that country; and allowing -for a margin of twenty five per cent of such area, to cover and provide -for depletion and propagation, it would seem that about 500,000 acres of -land is the approximate area now actually planted with and growing -henequen on that peninsula. These statements are made<a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a> to justify the -calling of attention to the fact that large areas of more or less flat, -rocky lands exist in various localities throughout the island of Cuba, -notably in the western extremity of the Province of Pinar del Rio, along -the north coast from the city of Matanzas to the Bahia de Cardenas, on -the Cayos and, at intervals, along the north coast from Caibarien to the -Bay of Nipe, and especially along the Caribbean Coast, in the vicinity -of the Cienaga de Zapata; all of which lands are possessed of the same -physical characteristics, and are subject to the same climatic -conditions that apply to the lands in Yucatan now planted with henequen -and at the present time successfully producing sisal hemp. The aggregate -of these several areas of henequen lands is conservatively estimated at -not less than 1,000,000 acres: or double the area now planted with -henequen in Yucatan.</p> - -<p>About 9,000 acres of these Cuban lands are now actually planted with and -successfully growing henequen; and about 5,000 acres are now producing -sisal hemp which in quantity and quality compares favorably with the -product of the best henequen lands in Yucatan. The results obtained from -these lands now actually planted and producing are conclusive as to the -results that could be obtained if other and larger areas of such lands -should be planted with henequen.</p> - -<p>Furthermore a large part of these Cuban henequen lands are so level and -have such uniform, unbroken surfaces that, at an expense less than that -involved in preparing the henequen lands of Yucatan, they could be put -in condition to be kept clean mainly by motor-driven mowing machinery, -instead of the enormously expensive man-power machete system employed -upon the rougher lands of Yucatan. In addition to such advantages these -rocky areas either comprise, or are margined by, large areas of rich -land capable of producing many important items required for human -sustenance; while in Yucatan everything needed to sustain human life has -to be imported.<a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a></p> - -<p>Finally, when consideration is given to the fact that sugar cane must be -cut during the dry season, while henequen can be cut and defibered more -advantageously during the wet season, it will readily be seen that the -co-ordination of these two operations, whenever possible, will tend to -solve and favorably determine the problem and cost of labor involved in -the production of both sugar and hemp. Administration expenses would -also be reduced by such co-ordination. These several advantages should, -therefore, contribute to make Cuba an active competitor with Yucatan for -the sisal hemp business, within the near future. The plan projected by -R. G. Ward for the drainage and development of the lands contained in -the Cienaga de Zapata, already mentioned in a preceding chapter of this -volume, contemplates the co-ordination of the sugar and hemp industries -upon a scale so large and comprehensive as to merit great success. The -consummation of such an enterprise should make a definitely favorable -and permanent impression upon the future of the two industries involved. -With a proper combination of capital and enterprise, the henequen-hemp -business in Cuba could readily be developed to a point where it would -rank second only to sugar in importance and profit yielding -possibilities; and such development should have a direct bearing upon -the certainty of supply and cost of the daily bread of the people of the -whole earth. It is, therefore, worthy of the most serious consideration.</p> - -<p>Henequen offers many advantages to capital, especially to those -investors who dislike to take chances on returns. First of all, the crop -is absolutely sure, if planted on the right soil. Lack of rains or long -droughts are matters of no importance, and the plant will continue to -thrive and grow without deterioration in the quality of fiber. In Cuba -this growth is said to average one inch on each leaf per month, and -since it grows, as an old expert expressed it, “both day and night, rain -or shine,<a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a> even on Sundays and feast days, there is nothing to worry -about.” Also it has practically no enemies. Cattle will not eat it -unless driven by starvation, which could not occur in Cuba. The crop is -never stolen, as the product could not be sold in small quantities. -Since the plant is grown on rocky lands, the leaves may be cut and -conveyed to the decortication plant at any season of the year.</p> - -<p>The life of the henequen plant is fifteen to twenty years, and the -average yield in Cuba is said to be about 70 pounds of fiber to every -1,000 leaves, and over 100 pounds are said to have been secured in -favorable localities. This compares well with the average yield in -Yucatan. In this connection it may be noted that at the World’s -Exhibition in Buffalo, sisal hemp made from henequen in Cuba won the -world medal in competition with Yucatan and other countries.</p> - -<p>The following is an authentic estimate of the cost of growing henequen -and producing sisal or fibre from the same in Cuba. One hundred acres -are used as the unit of measure:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:.9em;"> -<tr><td>Cost of 100,000 plants @ $40 per M</td><td align="right">$ 4,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cost of preparing land</td><td align="right">1,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cost of planting @ $5 per M</td><td align="right">500</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cost of caring for and cultivation during four years</td><td align="right">2,500</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" - class="bt">$8,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cost of cutting, conveying, decortication and baling</td><td align="right">4,000</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" - class="bt">$12,000</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"> -The returns from the first cutting four years after planting should be:<br /> -100,000 plants with 30 leaves to the plant yield, 3,000,000 leaves<br /> -3,000,000 leaves (60 lbs. fiber each 1000 leaves) 210,000 lbs. @ 10¢ per lb $21,000 -</td></tr> - -<tr><td>Cost of production</td><td align="right">12,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Net profit per 100 acres</td><td align="right" - class="bt">$9,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Net profit per acre</td><td align="right" - class="bt">$90</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Practical work in the field has demonstrated the fact that the cost of -producing henequen fibre or sisal, if carried on during a period of ten -years with the present<a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a> price of labor, will amount to three cents per -pound, or $6,300 for the production of 210,000 pounds of fibre coming -from 100 acres of land. To this may be added for interest on capital -invested and possible depreciation of plant or property, $1,700, making -a total of $8,000.</p> - -<p>This sum, representing the average annual cost of producing, subtracted -from $21,000, the normal value of the crop at 10¢ per pound, will leave -a net return of $13,000 for the 100 acres, or $130 net profit per acre.<a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII<br /><br /> -COFFEE</h2> - -<p>T<small>O</small> either Arabia or Abyssinia belongs the honor of having been the birth -place of those previous shrubs that were the forerunners of all the -great coffee plantations of two hemispheres. And from the seeds of this -valued plant is made probably the most universally popular beverage of -the world. The people of Europe, North Africa and Western Asia all drink -coffee. The same is true in most countries of South and Central America, -while in the United States and the West Indies no breakfast is complete -without it.</p> - -<p>Of all known nations, however, the people of Cuba consume the greatest -amount of the beverage per capita. Both in the city and in the country, -the fire under the coffee urn always burns, and neither invited guest -nor passing stranger crosses the threshold of a home without being -offered a cup of coffee before leaving.</p> - -<p>The introduction of coffee into Cuba, as before stated in this work, was -due to the influx of refugees, flying from the revolution in Santo -Domingo, in the first years of the nineteenth century. The majority of -these immigrants, of French descent, and thoroughly familiar with the -culture of coffee, settled first in the hills around Santiago de Cuba on -the south coast, where they soon started coffee plantations that later -became very profitable. Others located in the mountainous districts of -Santa Clara around the charming little city of Trinidad, where fine -estates were soon established and excellent coffee produced.</p> - -<p>From these first settlements the culture of the plant rapidly spread to -nearly all of the mountainous portions of the Island, where the soil was -rich, and where forest<a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a> trees of hard wood furnished partial shade, so -essential to the production of first-class coffee. In the mountains, -parks and valleys that lie between Bahia Honda, San Cristobal and -Candelaria, in the eastern part of Pinar del Rio, many excellent estates -were established whose owners, residing in homes that were almost -palatial in their appointments, spent their summers on their coffee -plantations, returning to Havana for the winter.</p> - -<p>Revolutions of the past century unfortunately destroyed all of these -beautiful places, leaving only a pile of tumbled-down walls and cement -floors to mark the spot where luxurious residences once stood. Cuba, -during the first half of the 19th century, and even up to the abolition -of slavery in 1878, was a coffee exporting country, but with the -elimination of the cheap labor of slaves, and the larger profits that -accrued from the cultivation of sugar cane, the coffee industry -gradually dropped back to a minor position among the industries of the -Island, and thousands of “cafetales” that once dotted the hills of Cuba -were abandoned or left to the solitudes of the forests where they still -yield their fragrant fruit “the gift of Heaven,” as the wise men of the -East declared.</p> - -<p>Of all the varied agricultural industries of Cuba there is none, -perhaps, that will appeal more than coffee growing to the home-seeker of -moderate means, the man who really loves life in the mountains, hills -and valleys beside running streams, where the air is pure and the shade -grateful, and the climate ideal. The culture of coffee is not difficult, -and by conforming to a few well-known requirements which the industry -demands it can easily be carried on by the wife and children, while the -head of the family attends to the harder work of the field, or to the -care of livestock in adjacent lands.</p> - -<p>The plant itself is an evergreen shrub with soft gray bark, and dark -green laurel-like leaves. The white-petaled star-shaped flowers, with -their yellow centers, are beautiful, and the bright red berries, growing -in clusters close to the stem are not unlike in appearance the -marmaduke<a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a> cherries of the United States. The fragrance that fills the -air from a grove of coffee trees can never be forgotten.</p> - -<p>The shrub is seldom permitted to grow more than ten feet in height and -begins to bear within three or four years from planting. The berries -ripen in about six months from the time of flowering. Each contains two -seeds or coffee beans, the surrounding pulp shriveling up as the time -approaches for picking.</p> - -<p>During the gathering of the crop women and children work usually in the -shade of taller trees, such as the mango or aguacate, stripping the -fruit from the branches into baskets or upon pieces of canvas laid on -the ground, which may be gathered up at the corners and carried to the -drying floors where the berries are spread out as evenly and thinly as -possible and given all the air and sunlight available. Early in the -morning these are raked over to insure rapid drying. When sufficiently -dry the berries are run through hulling machines which remove the outer -pulp, leaving the finished green bean of commerce.</p> - -<p>Approximately 500 trees are planted to the acre in starting a coffee -plantation, and these will yield under favorable conditions at the -expiration of the fourth year about one half of a pound to a tree, or -250 pounds to the acre, the value of which would be $50. The sixth year -these trees should produce one pound each, making the return from one -acre $100. Two years later these same trees will yield $200 per acre, -and the tenth year $300. Each succeeding year, if well cared for, the -yield should increase until the trees reach maturity at twenty-five -years.</p> - -<p>On the western slopes of the great Cordilleras that sweep throughout the -length of Mexico, several varieties of excellent coffee are found. Among -these is one, that through some freak of nature, afterwards encouraged -and developed by the natives of that district, has been induced to -produce two crops a year. It is stated on reliable authority also that -trees ten years old, in this restricted<a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a> area of western Mexico, will -yield five pounds of berries to the tree, or in the two periods of -annual bearing a total of ten pounds to each plant. The Department of -Agriculture is endeavoring to secure both seed and nursery stock from -this district, which will be transplanted to the Experimental Station at -Santiago de las Vegas, and definite data secured in regard to the -success of this variety of coffee in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Where several small coffee farms are located in the same vicinity, -hulling machines may be purchased jointly, and serve the needs of other -growers in the district. The crop when dried, cleaned and placed in -hundred-pound sacks, is usually strapped to the backs of mountain ponies -and thus conveyed to the nearest town or seaport for shipment to Havana.</p> - -<p>A coffee planter can always store his crop in the bonded warehouses of -Havana or other cities, and secure from the banks, if desired, advances -equivalent to almost its entire value. The price of green coffee on the -market at wholesale ranges from 20¢ to 25¢ per hundred weight.</p> - -<p>It is a common sight either in Bahia Honda or Candelaria to see long -trains of ponies bringing coffee in from the outlying foot hills, or -mountain districts. It is usually sold direct to local merchants, who -pay for the unselected unpolished beans, just as they come from the -hands of the growers, $20 per hundred weight. This high price is paid -owing to the fact that the Cuban product is considered, at least within -the limits of the Republic, the best coffee in the world, and it will -bring in the local markets a higher price than coffee imported from the -foreign countries. The retailers after roasting coffee, get from 40¢ to -50¢ per pound for it.</p> - -<p>In spite of its superiority and the demand for native coffee, less than -40% of the amount consumed is grown in Cuba. Most of it is imported from -Porto Rico and other parts of the world, and this, regardless of the -fact that nearly all of the mountain sides, valleys and foothills -belonging to the range that extends through Pinar<a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a> del Rio from Manatua -in the west to Cubanas in the east, are admirably adapted to the -cultivation of coffee, as also are the mountains of Trinidad and of -Sancti Spiritus in the Province of Santa Clara, the Sierra de Cubitas -and la Najassa in Camaguey, and the Sierra Maestra range that skirts the -full length of the southern shore of Oriente.</p> - -<p>The available lands for profitable coffee culture in Cuba are almost -unlimited and are cheap, considering the fertility of the soil, the -abundance of timber still standing, the groves of native fruit trees, -the good grass found wherever the sun’s rays can penetrate, the splendid -drinking water gushing from countless springs, and the many industries -to which these lands lend themselves, waiting only the influx of -capital, or the coming of the homeseeker.</p> - -<p>The Government of Cuba is anxious to foster the coffee industry, which -was once a very important factor in the prosperity of the Island. The -first protective duty was imposed in 1900; $12.15 being collected for -each 100 kilos (225 lbs.) of crude coffee, if not imported from Porto -Rico, that country paying only $3.40. During the first years of the -Cuban Republic this duty was increased to $18 per hundred kilos, and -later, 30% was added, making a total duty paid of $23.40 on every 225 -pounds of coffee imported. Porto Rico, however, is favored with a -reduction of 20% on the above amount by a reciprocity treaty, which -compels that country at present to pay only $18.20 per hundred kilos.</p> - -<p>Coffee in Brazil has been sold at from four to five cents per pound and -yet, we are told, with profit. On the supposition that it would cost 8¢ -per pound to grow it in Cuba, with the average market for the green -berries at 22¢, the profit derived from a coffee plantation properly -located and cared for is well worth considering, and since the grade -produced is one of the finest in the world, there is no reason why this -Island should not in time, supply if not the entire amount, at least a -large part of the high-grade coffee consumed in the United States.<a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a></p> - -<p>With the resumption of industries that must follow the termination of -the European War, the Government will do all in its power to persuade -families from the mountainous district of Europe to settle and make -their homes in Cuba. Some of them undoubtedly will be attracted to the -forest covered hills that offer so much in the way of health, charming -scenery and opportunities for the homeseeker with his family. It would -be a most delightful example of agricultural renaissance, if the -hundreds of “cafateles,” abandoned for half a century, should again be -brought to life, with the resurrection of the old-time coffee -plantations, as an important Cuban industry.<a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX<br /><br /> -THE MANGO</h2> - -<p>O<small>F</small> all Oriental fruits brought to the Occident, the golden mango of -India is undoubtedly king. For thousands of years, horticulturists of -the Far East, under the direction of native princes, have worked towards -its perfection. Just when the seeds were introduced into Cuba, no one -knows, but certain it is that so favorable were both soil and climate -that the mango today, in the opinion of the natives at least, furnishes -the Island its finest fruit. It has so multiplied and spread throughout -all sections that it plays an important part in the decoration of the -landscape.</p> - -<p>Next to the royal palm, the mango is more frequently seen in traveling -along railroads or automobile drives than any other tree. Its beautiful -dark green foliage, tinged during spring with varying shades, from -cocoanut yellow to magenta red, is not only attractive to the eye but -gives promise of loads of luscious fruit during the months of June, July -and August.</p> - -<p>There are two distinct races or types of this family in Cuba, one known -as the mango, and the other as the manga. The terminations would suggest -male and female, although no such difference exists in sex. Both in form -and fruit, however, the types are quite different.</p> - -<p>The mango is a tall, erect tree, reaching frequently a height of 60 or -70 feet, with open crown and strong, vigorous limbs. The fruit is -compressed laterally, has a curved or beak-like apex, yellow or -yellowish green in color, often blushed with crimson. It is rich in -flavor but filled unfortunately with a peculiar fibre that impedes -somewhat the removal of the juicy pulp.<a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a></p> - -<p>Nearly all varieties of mangoes are prolific bearers. Their handsome -golden yellow tinted fruit not infrequently bends limbs to the breaking -point, so great is its weight. The fruit is from three to five inches in -length, and will weigh from five to twelve ounces. The skin is smooth -and often speckled with carmine or dark brown spots, and in most of the -seedlings there is a slightly resinous odor, objectionable to strangers.</p> - -<p>The manga, quite distinct from the mango both in form of tree and in -appearance of fruit, is easily distinguished at a distance. It grows -from 30 to 40 feet in height, is beautifully rounded or dome shaped, and -has a closed crown or top. The panicles in early spring are from 12 to -24 inches in length, pale green in color, usually tinged with red, and -in contrast with the deep green of its foliage produce rather a -startling effect.</p> - -<p>There are two types of the manga, one known as the Amarilla and the -other as the Blanca. More of the latter are found in the neighborhood of -Havana than in any other section of the island. Three of the most -perfect samples of the manga blanca, both in tree and fruit, are found -within a few rods of each other on the northern side of the automobile -drive from Havana to Guanajay, between kilometers 35 and 36.</p> - -<p>The mangas also are prolific bearers, whose fruit ripens in July and -August, a month or so later than the mango. The fruit is roundish, very -plump, and with the beak or point of the mango entirely missing. Its -color is lemon yellow with a delicate reddish blush, the length about -three inches and the weight from five to eight ounces. The skin, rather -tough, peels readily, and in eating should be torn down from the stem -towards the apex. The same fibre is present as in the mango, while the -pulp is very juicy, sweet, slightly aromatic and pleasant in flavor.</p> - -<p>The manga amarilla, closely allied to the blanca, is a very common form -and quite a favorite in the markets of Havana, where it is found towards -the end of July.<a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a> The fruit is a deeper yellow than the blanca, very -juicy, and also very fibrous, with a weight varying from four to eight -ounces. These, with the mangoes above described, are seedling trees that -have gradually spread throughout the Island, the seed being scattered -along public highways and forest trails by men and animals. Horses, -cattle, goats and hogs are very fond of the mango.</p> - -<p>Since all mangoes give such delightful shade, and yield such an -abundance of luscious fruit throughout spring and early summer, the seed -has been planted around every home where space offered in city, hamlet -or country bohio. The center or “batey” of every sugar and coffee estate -in Cuba is made comfortable by their grateful shade, while single trees -coming from seeds dropped in the depths of the forest have gradually -widened out into groves. During the years of the Cuban War for -Independence, the fruit from these groves, from May until August, -furnished the chief source of food for insurgent bands that varied -anywhere from 200 to 2000 men.</p> - -<p>During the middle of the last century, when large coffee estates nestled -in the hills of Pinar del Rio, the mango, with its grateful shade and -luscious fruit, indicated the home or summer residence of the owner. -Today, of the house only broken stones and vine-covered fallen walls -remain, but the mangoes, old and gnarled, still stand, while around them -have spread extensive groves of younger trees, bearing each year tons of -fruit, with none to eat it save the occasional prospector, or the wild -hog of the forest.</p> - -<p>The Filipino mango, although not very common in Cuba, is occasionally -found in the western part of the Island, especially in the province of -Havana, where it was introduced many years ago, probably from Mexico, -although coming originally from the Philippine Islands, where it is -about the only mango known. The tree is rather erect, with a closed or -dome-shaped top, something similar to the manga. Its fruit is unique in -form<a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>—long, slender, sharply pointed at the apex, flattened on the -sides, and of a greenish yellow to lemon color when ripe. The pulp is -somewhat spicy and devoid of the objectionable fibre common to seedling -mangoes. It is usually preferred by strangers, although not as sweet and -delicious in flavor as other varieties of this family. The tree is -comparatively small, seldom reaching more than 30 feet in height. The -fruit is from four to six inches in length and will weigh from six to -twelve ounces. The Filipino has suffered but very little change in its -peregrinations throughout two hemispheres. It is not a prolific bearer, -but its fruit commands a very good price in the market. The Biscochuelo -mango is of the East Indian type, although the time and manner of its -introduction into Cuba is somewhat obscure. French refugees from Santo -Domingo may have brought it with them in 1800. It is found mostly in the -hills near Santiago de Cuba, especially around El Caney, and is quite -plentiful in the Santiago markets during the month of July. The fruit is -broadly oval with a clear, orange colored skin and firm flesh, and is -rather more fibrous than the Filipino. Its flavor is sweet and rich, -while its weight varies from eight to fourteen ounces. This variety of -the mango is not closely allied to any of the above mentioned types, but -keeps well, and would seem to be worthy of propagation in other sections -of the Island.</p> - -<p>Something over a half century ago, a wealthy old sea captain of -Cienfuegos, returning from the East Indies, brought twelve mango seeds -that were planted in his garden near Cienfuegos. One of the best of the -fruits thus introduced is called the Chino or Chinese mango, and is -probably the largest seedling fruit in the Island. On account of size it -sells in Havana at from 20¢ to 40¢, although it is quite fibrous and -rather lacking in flavor. This mango, through care and selection, has -undergone considerable improvement, so that the Chino today is a very -much better fruit than when brought to Cienfuegos sixty years ago.<a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a></p> - -<p>During the early Napoleonic wars, a shipload of choice mangoes and other -tropical fruit from India was sent by the French Government to be -planted in the Island of Martinique. The vessel was captured, however, -by an English man-of-war and carried into Jamaica. From this island and -from Santo Domingo, the French refugees introduced a number of mangoes, -including nearly all those that are now growing in Oriente, while the -manga, so common in Havana Province and Pinar del Rio, is thought to -have been brought from Mexico, although its original home, of course, -was in India and the Malaysian Islands.</p> - -<p>The fancy mangoes of Cuba today have all been imported within recent -years at considerable expense from the Orient, and their superiority -over the Cuba seedlings is due to the patient toil and care spent in -developing and perpetuating choice varieties of the fruit in India. Of -these fancy East Indian mangoes, the Mulgoba probably heads the list in -size, quality and general excellence. The fruit is almost round, -resembling in shape a small or medium sized grape fruit. Its average -weight is about sixteen ounces, although it sometimes reaches -twenty-four or more. When entirely ripe the Mulgoba is cut around the -seed horizontally. The two halves are then twisted in opposite -directions, separating them from the seed, after which they may be eaten -in the inclosing skin, with a spoon.</p> - -<p>The pulp is rich, sweet, of delightful flavor, and absolutely free from -fibre of any kind, which is true of nearly all East Indian mangoes. -Budded trees begin to bear the third or fourth year, yielding perhaps 25 -mangoes. The sixth or seventh year, dependent on soil and care bestowed, -they should bear from three to five hundred. In the tenth year, mangoes -of this variety should average at least a thousand fruit to the tree and -will bring from $1 to $3 a dozen in the fancy fruit stores of the United -States.</p> - -<p>The Bombay is another excellent mango, devoid of<a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a> fibre. Its weight is -somewhat less than the Mulgoba, ten ounces being a fair average. Another -East Indian variety known as the Alfonse has the size and weight of the -Bombay, although differing in flavor and in its form, which is heart -shaped. Its weight will average ten ounces.</p> - -<p>A close companion of the Alfonse is known as the “Favorite,” whose fruit -will average about sixteen ounces. The Amani is another choice East -Indian mango of much smaller size, since it weighs only about six -ounces. The “Senora of Oriente” is one of the varieties of the Filipino -introduced into that Province many years ago, and has proved very -prolific. It is fibreless, of good commercial value, the weight of the -fruit varying from ten to twelve ounces. It is long and carries a very -thin seed; its color is greenish yellow.</p> - -<p>The “Langra” is another importation from India, a large long mango -weighing about two pounds, lemon yellow in color, of good qualities, -with a sub-acid flavor.</p> - -<p>The “Ameere” is similar to the Langra in color and quality, the fruit -weighing only about one pound.</p> - -<p>The “Maller” is very closely allied to both the above mentioned types, -and bears a very excellent fruit with slightly different flavor and -odor.</p> - -<p>The “Sundershaw” is probably the largest of all mangoes, the fruit -varying from two to four pounds in weight, fibreless, with small seed, -but with a flavor not very agreeable.</p> - -<p>All of the above mentioned varieties of mangoes have been introduced -into Cuba at considerable expense and grafted on to seedling trees, -producing the finest mangoes in the world. Owing to their scarcity at -the present time in the western hemisphere, very remunerative prices are -secured even in the markets of Havana. Shipments consigned to the large -hotels and fancy fruit houses in the United States have brought of -course much higher prices.</p> - -<p>In the hands of a culinary artist the mango has many possibilities, both -in the green and the ripe state. From<a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a> it are made delicious jams, -jellies, pickles, marmalade, mango butter, etc. It is used also, as is -the peach, in making pies, fillings for short cake, salads, chutneys, -etc.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip209_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip209_sml.jpg" width="360" height="292" alt="FRUIT VENDER, HAVANA" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">FRUIT VENDER, HAVANA</span> -</p> - -<p>This handsome tree, especially the variety known as the manga, with its -round symmetrical dome-like form, its rich glossy foliage of leaves that -are never shed and that remain green throughout the entire year, adds -not only to the beauty of the landscape, but furnishes most grateful -shade to all who may seek a rest along the roadside.</p> - -<p>It is more than probable that the Government of Cuba will select the -manga as the natural shade tree for its public highways and automobile -drives. The experiment has been made in some places with excellent -success, and the delicious fruit yielded in such abundance would furnish -refreshing nourishment for the wayfarer during spring and early summer.</p> - -<p>Choice varieties of the mango are comparatively unknown<a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a> in northern -countries. Unfortunately the first samples that reached northern markets -came from Florida seedlings, and owing to their slightly resinous or -turpentine flavor, did not meet with a very ready acceptance. The rich, -delicious, fibreless pulp of the East Indian mangoes, if once known in -the larger cities of the North, would soon create a furore, that could -only be satisfied by large shipments, and that would command prices -higher than any other fruit grown.</p> - -<p>The mango, too, as a shade tree, or producer of fruit, has one great -advantage over the orange and many other trees. It will thrive in the -soil of rocky hills and in the dry lands whose impervious sub-soil would -bar many other trees. The day is not far distant when the mango will be -not the most popular but also the most profitable fruit produced of any -tree in the West Indies.<a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX<br /><br /> -CITRUS FRUITS</h2> - -<p>A<small>LTHOUGH</small> the forests of Cuba abound in several varieties of the citrus -family growing wild within their depths, the fruit was probably brought -from Spain by the early conquerors. The beautiful, glossy-leafed trees -of the wild sour and bitter oranges are met today throughout most of the -West Indies, and are especially plentiful in this island. The seeds have -probably been carried by birds, but the wild fruit, although seldom if -ever sweet, with its deep red color, is not only ornamental to the -forest, but often refreshing to the thirsty individual who may come -across it in his travels. The lime is also found in more or less -abundance, scattered over rocky hillsides, where the beautiful -lemon-like fruit goes to waste for lack of transportation to market.</p> - -<p>Almost everywhere in Cuba are found a few sweet orange trees that were -planted years ago for home consumption, but only with the coming of -Americans have the various varieties been planted systematically, in -groves, and the citrus fruit has assumed its place as a commercial -industry in the Island.</p> - -<p>Homeseekers from Florida found the native oranges of Cuba, all of which -are called “Chinos” or Chinese oranges to distinguish them from the wild -orange of the woods, to be not only sweet but often of superior quality -to those grown either in Florida or California. A prominent -horticulturist, who during the first Government of American Intervention -made a careful study of the citrus fruit of Cuba, stated that the finest -orange he had ever met during his years of experience was found in the -patio or backyard of a residence in the City of Camaguey.<a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a> The delicious -fruit from that tree he described as an accident or horticultural freak, -since no other like it has been found in the island.</p> - -<p>The rich soils, requiring comparatively little fertilizer, were very -promising to the settlers who came over from Florida in 1900, and many -of these pioneers planted large tracts with choice varieties of the -orange, brought from their own state, and from California. Capital was -interested in many sections, and extensive estates, orange groves -covering hundreds and even thousands of acres, were planted near Bahia -Honda, fifty miles west of Havana. Other large plantings were made on -the Western Railroad at a point known as Herradura, in the province of -Pinar del Rio, 100 miles from the capital.</p> - -<p>Smaller groves were planted in the neighborhood of San Cristobal and -Candelaria, in the same province, some fifty miles from Havana. Other -American colonies set out large groves in the eastern provinces; one at -a station of the Cuban Railroad, in Camaguey, known as Omaha; another -east of the harbor of Nuevitas. Orange groves were planted, too, at the -American colony of La Gloria and at nearby places on the Guanaja Bay of -the north shore.</p> - -<p>One of the largest plantings of citrus fruit was started on the cleared -lands of the Trocha, in the western part of Camaguey, some ten miles -north of Ciega de Avila, while at several different points along the -Cuba Company’s Road, orange groves were started during the early days -following its construction. Both the provinces of Santa Clara and -Matanzas, also, came in for more or less extensive citrus fruit culture, -while in the Isle of Pines, during the first years of the present -century, large holdings of cheap lands were purchased by American -promoters, and afterwards sold in small tracts to residents of the -United States who were promised fortunes in orange culture.</p> - -<p>Some of these various ventures in citrus fruit culture, especially those -where intelligence was used in the selection<a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a> of soils, and sites -commanding convenient transportation facilities, have proved quite -profitable. Many of them, however, far removed from convenient points of -shipment to foreign markets, have failed to yield satisfactory returns -and some have been abandoned to weeds, disease and decay.</p> - -<p>Some of the earliest and best kept groves were started in 1902 and 1903, -along the beautiful Guines carretera, or automobile drive, between -Rancho Volero and the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. -These groves have all reached their maturity and with their close -proximity to the local market of Havana, and easy transportation to the -United States, have been, and are, successful and profitable -investments.</p> - -<p>The first of these covered some 400 acres, all planted in choice -varieties of oranges by Mr. Gray of Cincinnati. In this vicinity too, -close by the Experimental Station, is the Malgoba Estate, the most -extensive and successful nursery, not only in citrus fruit, but for -nearly every other valuable plant, fruit, flower or nut bearing tree -indigenous to or introduced into Cuba. This nursery, as well as the -beautiful, orderly kept grounds of the Experimental Station, will be -found very interesting and perhaps valuable to the visitor from northern -countries.</p> - -<p>Some of the most successful groves in Cuba have been those planted in -what is known as the Guayabal District, located near the Guanajay Road, -in the extreme northwestern corner of the Province of Havana, within 25 -miles, or easy automobile drive, from the capital of the Island. The -oranges produced in this district are all from comparatively small -orchards, well cared for, whose fruit is sold to local purchasers and -conveyed in trucks to the markets of Havana. These oranges are sold in -on the trees, at prices varying from $10 to $20 per thousand. The grape -fruit, or toronja, alone is crated and shipped to the United States, -where the market for some years has been quite satisfactory, especially -when heavy frosts have cut short the yield of Florida groves.<a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a></p> - -<p>The great mistake of many of the early investors of capital in citrus -fruits in Cuba was not alone in the selection of the site, but in the -fact that enormous tracts of land were prepared at heavy expense and -groves set out with varieties not only unsuited to the market, but in -tracts so large that protection from disease, and from the tall rank -grasses of the island, was practically impossible.</p> - -<p>There is perhaps no fruit grown for commercial purposes that requires -more constant care and intelligent supervision than the orange and grape -fruit. An orange grove must be kept free from weeds, grass and running -vines; must be frequently cultivated to form a dust mulch; the trees -must be sprayed with insecticides and should be always under the eye of -an expert horticulturist, or orange grower, who will recognize and -combat not alone the scale insect but scores of other diseases that may -attack the trees at any time. These, if neglected for a year, or even -for a few months, will make inroads into the health of a grove that -spells heavy loss if not ultimate ruin.</p> - -<p>In Florida and California these facts, of course, are well known, and -the rules for successful orange culture are carefully followed. But in -the early rush for cheap lands in Cuba, and the selfish desire of the -promoter for huge profits and quick sales, regardless of the welfare of -the purchaser, tracts were purchased and trees were set out with neither -capital nor provision for the care and fertilizer required to keep a -grove thriving, from the time of planting the nursery stock to its -ultimate maturity.</p> - -<p>Experience has proved that the most successful varieties of oranges, -intended for the export trade, are those that bear very early in the -fall, and very late in the spring, avoiding thus all competition with -oranges from Florida and the Bahamas. Of these the early and the late -Valencias, together with the Washington navel, that will easily stand -shipment even to Europe and other distant markets, probably have the -preference among most growers in Cuba.<a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a></p> - -<p>The quality of this fruit is excellent, and although the navel orange -among some growers has gotten into ill repute, the fault lies not in the -orange itself, but in the fact that inferior nursery stock was imposed -upon many planters during the first days of the Republic. During the -past six years, first-class well selected and packed fruit has brought -from $2 to $5 per crate, and sometimes more, in the eastern and northern -markets of the United States, while common oranges, sold by the truck -load in the Havana market, bring to the grower from $6 to $12 per -thousand, choice fruit selling at from $10 to $20 per thousand.</p> - -<p>For general commercial purposes, especially for shipment abroad, the -Washington navel or Riverside oranges have probably no superior in Cuba. -They are large in size, weighing from 1½ to 2 pounds each. When -properly grown the skin is thin, with deep red color, and the fruit is -full of juice, as one may judge from the fact that no orange will exceed -a pound in weight and not be juicy.</p> - -<p>The navel orange is seedless and exceedingly sweet, although lacking -somewhat in the spicy flavor found in other varieties. Its season for -ripening in this latitude varies from August to November, and extends -into January. In planting groves with this variety care must be taken -that the buds come from trees producing first-class fruit, since the -type is liable to degenerate, unless the grower selects ideal trees from -which to cut his bud wood.</p> - -<p>Both the Jaffa and the Pineapple orange are popular in Cuba, especially -for the local markets of the island, since they ripen during what is -known as the middle orange season, or from December to March. The -pineapple orange is probably one of the most prolific of the mid-season -type. The fruit is pear-shaped, orange yellow in color, and one of the -most highly flavored oranges grown in Cuba. Its skin is thin. The form -of the tree is upright in growth rather than spreading.</p> - -<p>The Jaffa is a dainty round orange, of medium size,<a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a> golden yellow in -color, with a thin skin, and pulp tender and juicy. It keeps well and -is, as a rule, a prolific bearer. The tree is upright in shape, compact -and not prone to disease.</p> - -<p>The late Valencia, sometimes called Hart’s Tardiff, for commercial -purposes and shipment abroad is recognized as one of the most reliable -varieties grown in the island. It is seldom ripe before the month of -March, and is very much better during May and June. Its commercial -season extends from March to about the first of August, while the fruit -of some trees has been kept in good condition even longer than this. The -tree is thrifty and very prolific, bearing heavy crops every year. The -fruit is of medium size to large, depending on the amount of fertilizer -and care given it, while the color is a bright golden yellow. Good late -Valencia oranges, during the months of May, June and July, have never -sold in the Havana market for less than $15 to $20 per thousand. When -the tree is properly cared for, and the fruit is thoroughly ripe, the -late Valencia is one of the best of the citrus family.</p> - -<p>The Parson Brown is probably the earliest orange of all varieties that -have been imported. It sometimes ripens during the latter part of -August. The fruit is of good size and very sweet, with no particularly -marked flavor. The color of the peel is a greenish yellow, and it may be -eaten even before the yellow color appears. Its early appearance on the -market is the only thing, perhaps, that recommends it for commercial -purposes.</p> - -<p>In 1915 some small plantings were made in Havana Province of an orange -brought from Florida, known as the Lu Gim Gong. The principal merit of -this orange is said to be in its keeping quality on the tree. The fruit, -we are told, will hang on the branches in excellent edible condition -from one year to another. If this reputation can be maintained in Cuba, -oranges for the local market may be had all the year round. Sufficient -time has not elapsed however, since the first trees were brought into -the<a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a> island, to pass judgment on its merits or its commercial value.</p> - -<p>Although up to the inauguration of the Republic in 1902, the grape -fruit, known in Cuba as the toronja, was little valued, the people of -Cuba have gradually acquired a fondness for it, especially with the -desayuno or early morning coffee. Owing to this fact there is a rapidly -growing local demand for the toronja that promises quite a profitable -home market for this really excellent fruit. The grape fruit of Cuba, -although but little attention has been given to the improvement of -varieties, has been favored in some way by the climate itself, and that -of the entire Island, including the Isle of Pines, is very much sweeter -and juicier than that grown in the United States.</p> - -<p>The cultivation of grape fruit in Cuba, especially in the Isle of Pines, -has been very successful as far as the production of a high-grade fruit -is concerned. The trees are prolific and the crop never fails. -Unfortunately, grape fruit shipped from Cuba to the United States has -not always found a profitable market, and there have been seasons when -the crop became an absolute loss, since the demand abroad was not -sufficient to pay the transportation to northern markets. As the taste -for grape fruit grows, it is possible that this occasional glutting of -the market may become a thing of the past, but at the present time many -of the groves of grape fruit in Cuba are being budded with oranges. This -is true also of lemon trees.</p> - -<p>Limes, as before stated, are quite abundant in some parts of the Island, -growing wild in the forests of hilly sections. The recent demand for -citric acid would suggest that the establishment of a plant for its -manufacture might solve the problem of enormous quantities of citrus -fruit that must go to waste every year unless some method of utilizing -it is discovered in the locality where found.</p> - -<p>There are over 20,000 acres today in this republic on which citrus fruit -is grown. The total value of the estates<a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a> is estimated at about fifteen -millions of dollars, but with each year it becomes more apparent that -the area of really profitable citrus culture should be limited to a -radius of not more than one hundred miles from some port whence regular -shipments can be made to the United States. This is an essential feature -of the citrus fruit industry. Its disregard means failure.</p> - -<p>The wild varieties of the orange, both the bitter and the sour, although -too isolated and scattered for commercial purposes, are often a godsend -to the prospector in the forest covered mountains, since the juice of -the sour orange mixed with a little water and sugar makes a very -pleasant drink. The wild trees themselves, with their symmetrical -trunks, dark glossy evergreen leaves, white, fragrant flowers, and deep -golden red fruit, that hangs on the tree for months after maturity, -furnish a very attractive sight to the traveler, as well as a safe -indication of the fact that in Cuba the citrus fruit, if not indigenous -to the soil, has found a natural home.<a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI<br /><br /> -BANANAS, PINEAPPLES AND OTHER FRUITS</h2> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> banana is of East Indian origin, but of an antiquity so great that -man has no record of its appearance on earth as an edible fruit, nor can -any variety of the plant be found today growing wild. The importance of -the banana as a source of food for the human race in all warm countries -of low altitude is probably equaled by no other plant, owing to the fact -that a greater amount of nourishment can be secured from an acre of -bananas than from any other product of the soil.</p> - -<p>The banana has accompanied man into all parts of the tropical world, and -for the natives at least still remains the one unfailing staff of life. -The bulb once placed in moist fertile earth will continue to propagate -itself and to produce fruit indefinitely, even without care of any kind, -although for commercial purposes it may be improved and its -productiveness increased through selection and cultivation.</p> - -<p>Few if any plants that nature has given us can be utilized in so many -ways as the banana. The fruit when green, and before the development of -its saccharine matter takes place, consists largely of starch and -gluten, furnishing a splendid substitute, either boiled or baked, for -the potato. Cut into thin slices, and fried in hot oil or lard, it -becomes quite as palatable as the Saratoga chips of the United States. -When baked in an oven and mashed with butter or sauce, it is not a bad -substitute for the potato, and far more nourishing.</p> - -<p>When sun-dried and finely ground, a splendid highly nutritious -banana-flour is produced, that is not only pleasant to the taste, but -according to the report of physicians far more easily digested and -assimilated than is<a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a> the flour of wheat or corn. From good banana flour, -either bread, crackers, griddle cakes or fancy pastry may be made, that -would be relished on any table.</p> - -<p>The green fruit, when cut into small cubes, toasted and mixed with a -little mocha coffee to give it flavor, offers the best substitute for -that beverage that has been found up to the present time. When -scientifically treated with sugar, the semi-ripe fruit with the addition -of flavoring extracts may be converted into very good imitations of -dried figs, prunes and others forms of preserves, that are not only -healthful and palatable, but are nutritious, and may well serve as an -important contribution to the food products of the world.</p> - -<p>Interesting and important experiments with banana-flour and the various -products of both the ripe and the green fruit were made in Camaguey some -years ago. The results were exceedingly satisfactory, but with the death -of the inventor this promising industry was permitted to drop into -disuse. Had Cuba been able to command the use of, or fall back on this -splendid substitute for wheat flour, there would have been no bread -famine in the island, such as occurred in the spring of 1918, and the -Republic would have been independent of outside assistance.</p> - -<p>Bananas for commercial purposes, or rather for export, have been grown -for many years in the eastern end of the Island, especially in the -neighborhood of Nipe Bay, where deep, rich soil, combined with the heavy -rainfall of summer, results in rapid growth and full development of the -fruit. The banana grown for shipment to the United States is known in -Cuba as the Johnson. There are several types of this, but all resemble -closely the bananas of Costa Rica and other Central American countries, -where the United Fruit Company controls the trade. Owing to the fact -that this Company owns its own groves in Central America, conveniently -located for loading its ships, the United States is supplied today -almost entirely<a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a> from that section, and the exportation of bananas from -Cuba has been materially reduced.</p> - -<p>Banana lands, too, are almost invariably well adapted to the growing of -sugar cane, hence the great fields of Nipe Bay, and that part of Oriente -once devoted to the cultivation of bananas, were eagerly sought by the -sugar companies of the Island, and most of the territory converted into -big sugar cane plantations.</p> - -<p>There are probably twenty varieties of bananas cultivated in different -parts of Cuba. Some twelve or more of these may be seen growing at the -Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas. The variety preferred for -local consumption and always in constant demand is the large cooking -bananas, known in the United States as the plantain. This banana is not -eaten in its natural state, but when cooked, either green or ripe, it -finds a place on every table in Cuba.</p> - -<p>The plant is tall and the fruit at least twice as long as that of the -ordinary banana of commerce. It is not as prolific as other varieties, -seldom bearing more than 30 or 40 to the stem, but it is found on every -farm on the Island and is relied on as a source of food, even more than -is the potato. The bunches under normal conditions command in the market -prices varying from 20¢ to 60¢, dependent upon the number of “hands” or -bananas to the stalk.</p> - -<p>The banana plant reaches a height of twelve or fifteen feet and is -reproduced from the sucker or offshoot of the original bulb. About 400 -hills are set out to the acre. In twelve months the first comes to -maturity, producing a single bunch of fruit, whose price, dependent on -variety and size, varied from 20¢ to $1. Each main stalk during the year -sends up six or eight suckers, that are used to increase the acreage as -desired. Bananas for export are grown profitably only on or near the -edge of deep water harbors, where transportation to northern markets is -assured.<a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a></p> - -<p>A description of all of the many varieties of the banana grown in Cuba -would be perhaps superfluous. The most commonly cultivated for the -table, and eaten without cooking, is known as the Manzana or Apple -Banana. Its flavor may suggest the apple, although the choice of name is -probably accidental. The bunch is rather small, and the fruit is bright -yellow, only about one-half the length of the banana of commerce, and -stands out more or less horizontally from the stem on which it grows. -The average price of these when found in the market is about 35¢ per -bunch.</p> - -<p>Some three or four varieties of the red banana are grown in Cuba, and -while quite hardy and easily cultivated they are not prized in the -Indies as in the United States. The dwarf banana, or Platano Enano, has -a very pleasant flavor, not unlike that of the Johnson, or banana of -commerce, and may be found in almost every garden in the Island. The -plant reaches a height of only five or six feet, and the bunches of -fruit are long and heavy, filled almost to the tip, and often supported -by a forked stock, caught under the neck of the stalk so that the weight -of the fruit will not break or pull over the plant itself.</p> - -<p>Another very choice banana is called the “Platano Datil,” or date -banana. The stalks are relatively small and hold but little fruit in -comparison with other varieties, seldom having more than two or three -hands to the bunch. The fruit itself is from two and a half to three -inches in length, round and plump, with a thin skin that can be slipped -off, like a glove, but with a flavor that is probably the most delicate -and delicious of the whole Musa family.</p> - -<p>Approximately 125,000,000 pounds of bananas are exported from the Island -each year, valued under normal conditions at a little over a million -dollars. The great bulk of bananas grown in Cuba are for domestic -consumption.</p> - -<p>Agriculture, although rapidly assuming as it should<a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a> the dignity of a -science, still has its caprices or apparent contradictions. And so it -happens that the choicest flavored and highest priced bananas of the -world are grown in the waterworn pockets of almost barren dog-teethed -rocks—“los dientes de perro” of the extreme eastern end of Cuba, just -back of Cape Maysi.</p> - -<p>Here the coast rises from sea level in a series of four or five steps or -comparatively flat plateaux, each some four or five hundred feet above -the other, until an altitude of two thousand feet is reached. The rocks -are soft limestone and in the millions of waterworn pockets, the leaves -and dust of the forest jungle have left their deposit for ages. In this -shallow soil bananas not only grow luxuriously but have a remarkably -delicate and delicious flavor, essentially their own.</p> - -<p>The secret of this wondrous growth and par excellence however, lies not -alone in the rocky soil, but in the fact that generous nature at this -point, contributes an abundant shower of rain almost every day in the -year. The low, heavily waterladen clouds of the West Indian seas, driven -by easterly winds strike this series of table lands, one rising above -the other, and shower the lands with daily rains. Hence it is that while -the average rainfall of Cuba is 54 inches, this series of table land of -Cape Maysi has an annual rainfall of 125 inches.</p> - -<p>The result is that in spite of difficult access and a cultivation -confined to the hoe, millions of bunches of choice bananas are grown and -shipped from the mouth of the Little Yumuri every year. United Fruit -steamers on their way north from South and Central American banana -fields stop at the above landing to take on a top dressing of fancy -fruit.</p> - -<p>Owing to the fact that the banana has practically no season, or rather -that it may bear in any month, four suckers of varying ages are set out -in each hill, from which four bunches of fruit, some three months apart, -will result during the year. With four hundred stands or hills to the -acre, the annual yield should be, approximately<a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a> 1,600 bunches, and -whether the crop is disposed of in the local markets or converted into -banana flour, the growing of bananas may be made one of the important -industries of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Patient toil and judicious selection have made the modern pineapple one -of our most delightful of all fruits, in addition to which, in those -countries not too far removed from markets, it has assumed an important -place as a commercial industry. The fruit of the pineapple, like that of -the strawberry, is a strange compound or consolidation of hundreds of -little fruits, in one symmetrical cone, tinted when ripe with shades -varying from greenish yellow to golden red or orange. Like the -strawberry, it is a ground fruit that must be planted and cultivated -along the lines that bring best results with ordinary field crops.</p> - -<p>Pineapples have been grown in Cuba since the beginning of the Spanish -occupation, perhaps even before, although no mention is made of them as -being cultivated by the Indians. As a commercial product the growing of -the pineapple on a large scale began during the first Government of -Intervention, although they were shipped abroad to some extent before -that time. In point of money value, the industry ranks next to that of -the citrus fruit. Although up to the present time most of the pineapples -intended for export are grown within fifty miles of the city of Havana, -over a million crates are annually shipped to the United States.</p> - -<p>Pineapples may be grown on any rich soil in Cuba, and are considered one -of the staple crops. The slips or offshoots from the parent plant are -set out in long ridges some four feet apart, with intervening spaces -averaging a foot. These produce fruit in one year from planting, and -from each original stalk an average of six suckers may be taken for -planting in other beds, so that with a very small start the acreage may -be easily increased five or six-fold each year.</p> - -<p>About 8,000 plants are considered sufficient for an<a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a> acre of ground; and -the cost of them when purchased averages about $30 per acre, while the -preparation of the land for pineapple culture will amount to somewhat -more. The net returns under favorable circumstances will vary from $75 -to $100. The average net profit from pineapples grown near Artemisia and -Campo Florida is said to be about $50 per acre. The high price of sugar, -since the beginning of the European War, has, however, caused much of -the former pineapple acreage to be converted into cane fields.</p> - -<p>The profit derived from pineapple culture, as in all fruits or -vegetables of a perishable nature, depends very largely upon the -shipping facilities of the locality selected. Pineapples cannot long be -held on the wharf waiting for either trains or steamers. In this -connection it may be mentioned that the daily ferry between Key West and -Havana, by which freight cars can be loaded in the fields and shipped to -any city in the United States without breaking bulk, has been very -beneficial to growers.</p> - -<p>The Red Spanish, owing to its excellent shipping qualities, is preferred -to all others for export, although many other varieties, such as the -“Pina blanca” or sugarloaf, which will not stand shipment abroad, are -used for local consumption and bring an average price of ten cents -retail throughout the year.</p> - -<p>The largest pines grown for commercial purposes include the Smooth -Cayenne, a beautiful fruit, varying in weight from five to fifteen -pounds. Unfortunate is he who may have partaken of the rich sweet, juicy -Sugar Loaf of Cuba, since it will discourage his fondness for the Smooth -Cayenne, the much advertised Honolulu and other cone shaped products, -whose flavor is not in keeping with their appearance.</p> - -<p>So delicious in flavor is the sugar loaf pine in comparison with those -large varieties suited only for canning or cooking purposes, that the -latter have never become sufficiently popular in Cuba to induce -cultivation. In the<a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a> Isle of Pines, however, as well as in Florida, the -smooth Cayenne is grown and shipped to the nondiscriminating who live -abroad. With care in packing, however, the sugarloaf may reach northern -markets.</p> - -<p>The pineapple more than any other fruit appeals to the canning industry, -especially in Cuba, where hundreds of thousands that have ripened too -late for the northern markets are left to rot in the fields. There are -no better pineapples grown in the world than in the Island of Cuba, and -the excess or overproduction of the fruit within the next few years will -undoubtedly be handled by properly equipped canning factories and thus -add another industry to the revenues of the Island.</p> - -<p>The Anon is a small shapely tree seldom growing over twenty feet in -height and common throughout all Cuba. The fruit of the Anon, sometimes -called the sugar-apple, resembles a small round greenish white cone, -about the size of the ordinary apple. Its delightful pulp suggests a -mixture of thick sweetened cream, adhering to smooth black sunflower -seeds. Although delicious to eat fresh from the tree, and very useful in -making ices, it does not readily endure shipment, and is thus confined -commercially to the local markets of the larger cities in Cuba.</p> - -<p>The Chirimoya, belonging to the same family, is undoubtedly the queen of -the Anones. It is larger than the Anon, reaching the size of an ordinary -grape-fruit. Its pulp is white, soft and very delicate, while the skin, -unlike the Anon, is smooth, yellowish in color, with a blush of red.</p> - -<p>The Zapote, Nispero or Sapodilla, as it is variously termed, is a -beautiful ornamental tree of the forest, indigenous to tropical America -and the West Indies. The tree, with its trim shapely trunk and branches, -its crisp, dark green foliage that never fails, adds greatly to the -beauty of parks and lawns. The wood is hard, reddish and very durable. -From the trunk exudes chicle gum, used in the United States for making -chewing-gum. In England, since it is more plastic than caoutchouc, and<a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a> -more elastic than gutta-percha, it is employed as an adulterant to these -products. The fruit in size and color resembles somewhat a small russet -apple. It has a delightfully sweet juicy pulp, not unlike a persimmon -touched with frost. The small glossy seeds are easily removed, and the -fruit is very refreshing when left on ice, or in the early morning -hours. Only with extreme care in packing could zapotes, like many other -fruits of Cuba, stand shipment to foreign countries.</p> - -<p>The Tamarind is a tall, beautiful tree frequently 70 to 80 feet in -height, with a soft, delicate, locust-like foliage, and purplish or -orange veined flowers in terminal clusters. The Tamarind probably -originated in Abyssinia or some other part of eastern tropical Africa, -but at the present time it is scattered throughout the entire tropical -world, and is very common in Cuba. There is perhaps no tree known whose -fruit furnishes a more refreshing fruit than the Tamarind. It is said to -have been brought to Cuba from Southern Europe more than a century ago, -whence it has since been scattered throughout the forest, through the -medium of birds. From its branches, after the flowers have disappeared, -hang clusters of brown colored, bean-like brittle pods. These when ripe -are filled with a sweet yet pleasantly acid pulp, which when mixed with -water makes a refreshing, slightly laxative and healthful drink.</p> - -<p>The Mamey Colorado is another giant tree of the forest, belonging to the -Sapodilla family and indigenous to tropical America. Its fruit is oval -in form, some six or eight inches in length, covered with a tough brown -skin, and filled with a rich peculiar dark red pulp, inclosing a long, -smooth, coffee-colored seed, that is easily separated from the edible -part of the fruit. In consistency and flavor, it suggests slightly a -well-made pumpkin pie. Those unaccustomed to the fruit would probably -find it unpleasantly rich. The yellow or Mamey de Santo Domingo is a -true Mamey, entirely different from the Mamey Colorado. The tree is -large, tall and quite common in<a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a> the forests of the Island. Its fruit is -round, russet yellow in color and equivalent to a large grapefruit. It -is used only as a preserve, and in that capacity serves a useful -purpose.</p> - -<p>The Guava, or Guayaba, as it is known in Spanish countries, springs up -unwanted in almost every field of Cuba. Its nature is that of a shrub, -spreading out with little form or symmetry. If permitted to propagate -itself, it soon becomes a pest difficult to eradicate. A few choice -varieties, one of which is known as the Pear Guava, imported from Peru, -are very palatable. The meat of the latter is white, rather juicy and -free from seeds. The common Guayaba of the field, while sometimes eaten -raw, is always in demand for jellies, Guayaba paste and marmalades, -which have a ready sale in Cuba and in the United States and are very -popular in the latter country. Animals of all kinds, especially pigs and -horses, are very fond of it.</p> - -<p>The Mamoncillo is another beautiful forest tree indigenous to Cuba, that -spreads out like a giant live-oak or mammoth apple tree. Its round, -russet green fruit hangs from every branch, and is refreshing to the -traveler who stops a moment beneath its shade. Its slightly acid pulp -covers a rather large round seed, the whole resembling a tough skinned -plum, although the tree belongs to an entirely distinct family.</p> - -<p>Figs of all varieties, green, black and yellow, may be found in almost -every garden in Cuba. No effort has been made to preserve them for -commercial purposes, but when ripe they are very refreshing taken with -“desayuno” or the early morning meal.</p> - -<p>The Aguacate is another valuable product of the Caribbean Basin, and -seems to be indigenous to nearly all its shores, including Mexico and -Central and South America. It extended south along the Pacific Coast -also, as far as Peru, where the Spanish conquerors found it in use among -the people of the Incas. Oviedo, in his reports to Charles I of Spain in -1526, stated that he had<a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a> found this peculiar fruit on the Caribbean -shores of both South and Central America.</p> - -<p>It was also indigenous to Mexico, where the Aztecs called it the -Ahuacatl, whence came the Spanish name of Aguacate, by which it is known -in Cuba. The name Avocado has been adopted by the Department of -Agriculture of the United States, in order to avoid the confusion -resulting from the many local names under which this fruit is known in -various countries.</p> - -<p>The aguacate of Cuba is a tall handsome tree of the forest, scattered -more or less throughout all portions of the Island. It frequently -reaches a height of 70 or 80 feet, and although of an open spreading -nature, nevertheless furnishes grateful shade. There are many types, -although systematic efforts to classify them botanically have not been -very successful. The distinction between them usually made is dependent -largely upon the shape of the fruit or its color.</p> - -<p>The most common variety in Cuba is probably the long, pear-shaped -aguacate, although trees bearing round and oblong fruit are often met, -especially where they have been planted in gardens or orchards. In color -the fruit is usually bright green, or greenish red. Some types again -will vary from greenish red to a reddish purple.</p> - -<p>The pear shaped aguacates vary in length from five to ten inches, and -will average probably a pound and a half in weight. The round or oblong -types are usually green in color, with a diameter of five or six inches. -The skin is about 1/16th of an inch in thickness, smooth and bright, and -peels freely from the inclosed meat. The meat is rather difficult to -describe since it resembles in flavor and texture no other edible fruit -known. Its color is golden yellow, resembling both in consistency and -shade, rich, cold butter, and is used sometimes as a substitute for this -product of the dairy. Close to the skin the meat has a slightly greenish -tinge. It is very rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor, that -evades all description.<a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a></p> - -<p>The aguacate may be eaten just as it comes from its thin shell-like -covering. In the center of the fruit is a large hard seed some two and a -half inches in diameter. This never adheres to the pulp, and may be -lifted out readily so that the fruit can be eaten with a spoon.</p> - -<p>The aguacate forms the finest salad in the world. When used for this -purpose the pocket from which the seed was removed is usually filled -with broken ice, over which is poured a dressing of salt, vinegar and -mustard or pepper, as fancy may happen to dictate. When filled with -small cubes of sugar loaf pineapple and mayonnaise dressing, you have a -“salad divine.” When taken this way, the aguacate is cut in half, the -shell-like covering forming the bowl from which it is eaten. Owing to -its content of oil, and other nutritious elements, the aguacate will -probably go further towards sustaining life and producing energy than -any other fruit known. It is also excellent when removed from the peel, -cut into cubes and eaten in soup.</p> - -<p>The tree is a prolific bearer, the fruit ripening during the months of -July to October inclusive. Other varieties recently introduced come into -bearing in October and remain in fruit until January, some occasionally -holding over until the month of March.</p> - -<p>In the development and improvement of the aguacate, it is the aim of the -horticulturist to lengthen the bearing period as much as possible, and -through selection to eliminate any space between the pulp and the seed; -for the latter, if loose, will often bruise the fruit in handling and -shipping. Since the aguacate, like most fruit trees, is not true to -seed, this work can be accomplished only through grafting, and although -successful, requires care and experience. The ordinary aguacate of the -forest bears the fourth or fifth year from the seed, while the grafted -varieties will bear the third year. A tree of the latter type, when five -years of age, will bear from one hundred to five hundred aguacates, that -will average two<a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a> pounds in weight, and will sell in the fruit markets -of the United States at from $1 to $3 a dozen.</p> - -<p>The tree may be grown on any well drained land and under conditions -similar to those of the mango. On hillsides that have sufficient depth -of soil, it does very well, and as the demand for fancy fruit in the -palatial hotels of the United States increases, the growing of aguacates -for commercial purposes will undoubtedly be undertaken in Cuba or a -still larger scale.<a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII<br /><br /> -GRAPES, CACAO, AND VANILLA</h2> - -<p>I<small>N</small> spite of the fact that the Grape is indigenous to Cuba, prohibitory -laws on the part of Spain discouraged its culture in all of her -colonies, so that vine culture in the Island has had no opportunity to -thrive. The few isolated specimens found occasionally in gardens have -produced excellent fruit, especially in the neighborhood of Guantanamo, -where French refugees from Santo Domingo introduced a few plants in the -beginning of the 19th century.</p> - -<p>Realizing the importance of grape culture in any country where possible, -Dr. Calvino, Director of the Government Experiment Station, in the first -days of his administration, sent into the forests of Cuba for healthy -specimens of the wild grape, indigenous to the country, known as the -“Uva Cimarron.” These were brought to the Station and set out in soil -especially prepared. After less than a year had elapsed, four or five -lanes, several hundred feet in length, for which trellises of wire have -been provided, showed wonderful growth. This native sour grape has -simply covered the supports with a wilderness of leaves, vines and -fruit.</p> - -<p>Correspondence with Professor Munson of Texas, one of the most noted -grape specialists of the United States, resulted in bringing to Cuba a -dozen or more varieties of choice grapes from that section. These, -together with others brought from France, Spain and other European -countries, have been planted at the Station, where, in spite of the -change of climate and conditions, they seem to thrive. The Director is -planning to bud the wild stock of the Cuban grape with all of these -choice imported<a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a> varieties, in order to ascertain which may give the -best results in this country.</p> - -<p>Several acres are devoted to this experimental grape field and have been -supplied with convenient trellises and facilities for irrigation. The -Director and those interested with him are much encouraged with the -present stage of the experiment and have great confidence in their -ability to establish successfully in Cuba many of the choice grapes of -the world, although the medium of the vigorous Cimarron grape of the -island. If these experiments prove successful, there is no reason why -many of the hillsides of this country should not be converted into -immense vineyards, and the cultivation of grapes become a prominent and -permanent source of agricultural wealth.</p> - -<p>Although intoxication among the inhabitants of Cuba is almost unknown, -the drinking of wine, as in all other Latin American countries, has been -a custom from time immemorial and the annual importation of wine, most -of which comes from Spain, approximates $2,500,000 a year. Should the -culture of grapes in Cuba meet with the success expected, there is no -reason why this industry, together with that of wine making, might not -be carried on in connection with coffee growing in the mountains, since -the soils of the fertile hills throughout the Island are adapted to the -culture of both at the same time.</p> - -<p>In the matter of popular beverages it is somewhat interesting to note -that in each hemisphere, nature provided trees of the forest, the fruit -of which for countless centuries has furnished to man beverages that -today are almost as essential as food. In fact the Cacao of the western -hemisphere is a very nutritious food and drink at the same time. While -coffee is indigenous to Arabia and Abyssinia, whence the trees have been -carried into nearly all parts of the tropical world, cacao, on the other -hand, was indigenous to the West Indies, to Mexico, Central America and -probably to all countries bordering<a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a> on the Caribbean. The shores of the -latter great sea or basin of the ocean, with their rich warm valleys -formed by the rivers tributary to it, are the natural home of the cacoa, -botanically known as Theobroma, or food of the gods.</p> - -<p>When Cortez forced himself as an unwelcome guest upon Montezuma, in the -first quarter of the sixteenth century, he found a delicious drink -called caca-huatl, made by the Aztecs from the seeds of this really -marvellous plant. The taste of chocolate is so delicate and so palatable -that fondness for the drink does not have to be acquired in any country. -From the West Indies cacao, or cocoa beans, were carried to Spain and -the cultivation of the plant was introduced into the warmer latitudes of -the eastern hemisphere. The government of Spain, with its short-sighted -greed of those days, succeeded in keeping the manufacture of this drink -more or less secret from the outside world, and for chocolate demanded -prices so high that only the rich could afford to buy it, retarding thus -its general use in Europe for nearly a century.</p> - -<p>The consumption of chocolate today, both as a beverage and as a food, -especially in the manufacture of confections, has assumed throughout the -world very large proportions. Approximately 150,000,000 pounds of -chocolate and cocoa produced from the cacao trees of the Caribbean basin -are consumed in civilized countries, while the demand for the beans is -increasing by rapid bounds every year.</p> - -<p>There is perhaps no form of nutritious food more condensed and complete -than that of the better grade of chocolate. Nine-tenths of the content -of this wonderful bean are assimilated by the system, hence its value -not only to travelers but also to armies and forces in the field, who -demand condensed foods like chocolate, with a large amount of -nourishment in a very small bulk. An analysis of cacao yields of -carbohydrates, 37%; of fat, 29%; and of protein, 22%. In the better -grades of<a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a> chocolate, used for both food and drink, there is practically -no waste.</p> - -<p>From the above it may be readily seen that the cultivation of cacao, -from which the chocolate and cocoa of commerce are derived, has become -one of the standard agricultural industries of the world, and one which -for the future gives great promise, since the demand for the cacao beans -is increasing rapidly, as is also the market price.</p> - -<p>The Central American republics bordering on the Caribbean, as well as -the northern coast of Colombia and Venezuela, are the greatest producers -of cacao, while Trinidad, Cuba and other islands of the West Indies, -produce considerable amounts.</p> - -<p>The culture of cacao, like that of coffee and citrus fruits, is a -healthful and profitable employment, and especially agreeable for those -fond of life in the open, and who enjoy living in the mountains and -valleys that slope toward the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. Its -cultivation may be carried on where conditions are favorable, in company -with coffee, since while the latter is grown on the fertile foothills -and mountain sides, cacao is at its best in the sheltered valleys of the -forest. Cacao demands a rich, deep, moist soil, well drained, since the -roots of the tree will not tolerate standing water, and the subsoil, if -not pervious, must lie at least six feet below the surface.</p> - -<p>The forest-covered valleys of tropical Cuba, receiving as they do the -washings of the hillsides, upon which decayed vegetable matter has -accumulated during centuries, furnish ideal locations for cacao. In -preparing for the cultivation of the plant, all underbrush is removed, -leaving only the tall stately trees, that although giving the required -shade will still admit some sunlight to the soil below; otherwise the -cacao, reaching up for the light, assumes a tall slender growth, -inconvenient in gathering the crop. Trees for commercial purposes should -not attain a height of more than 25 or 30 feet,<a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a> the branches leaving -the trunk six or eight feet from the ground. They are planted as a rule -from 12 to 15 feet apart, which is equivalent to from 200 to 300 trees -per acre.</p> - -<p>There are several varieties of the cacao, although that in common use in -Cuba is known as the Cacao Criolla, and is not subject to diseases as -are some of the other varieties grown in South America. The fruit is an -elongated pod of cucumber shape, with a rough corrugated skin, hanging -close to the trunk and branches. The side facing the sun carries shades -of red and yellow that produce a rather startling color effect when -first seen in the forest.</p> - -<p>The cacao has two major crops each year. The pods when ripe are removed -from the trees with a hooked pruning knife attached to a bamboo pole, -and collected into piles, sometimes covered with earth, where they -undergo a period of fermentation lasting five or six days. After this -the seeds are removed from the pods and carefully dried for the market. -In the days of Montezuma such was the value of the cacao seeds or beans -that they took the place of money or small change in adjusting -purchases, and they are recognized even today among the Indians in -representation of values. In the cacao factories, the oil of the bean, -which represents 50% of its weight, is extracted and known to the trade -as cocoa butter. The residue, known as the cacao nib, is ground and -forms the chocolate and cocoa of commerce. Even the hulls are used to -make a low grade of cocoa known as “La Miserable.”</p> - -<p>The tree comes into bearing the fourth year after planting and attains -its maturity in about twelve years, with a life extending over a half a -century or more. The yield per tree varies greatly, or from four to -twelve pounds annually, with an average, under favorable conditions, or -five or six pounds. This extreme range in the productivity of cacao is -dependent almost entirely on the fertility of the soil, since the plant -is greedy in<a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a> its demand for nourishment, and it quickly responds to the -generous use of fertilizer. In the ordinary sense of the term no -cultivation whatever is given to the cacao tree, since it is truly -speaking a denizen of the forest, doing better when the soil above its -roots is never disturbed, although a mulch of leaves to maintain the -moisture is very beneficial. Weeds and brush that may appear are removed -with a machete.</p> - -<p>The successful culture of cacao requires experience and care, especially -during the period of fermentation through which the pods must pass -before the removal of the seeds. This latter work is done usually by -women and children, hence, as in the case of coffee, cacao in many -senses of the word is well adapted to colonies and settlements composed -of families who have grouped together and made permanent homes in the -mountains and valleys that border on the Caribbean and the Gulf.</p> - -<p>Cuba is exporting at the present time, mostly from the province of -Oriente, approximately two and a half million pounds of cacao, valued at -$15.20 per hundred pounds, or $380,000. The commodity is staple and the -demand at good prices constant, while the cacao once prepared for market -does not deteriorate or suffer loss if sale is delayed, all of which is -to the advantage of the grower.</p> - -<p>The north shores of the Province of Pinar del Rio, swept by the -northeast trade winds throughout the entire year, furnish in many places -conditions most favorable to the culture of cacao and coffee. The same -is true of southeastern Santa Clara, of the northern slopes of the -Sierra de Cubitas and of the coasts of Oriente from the Bay of Nipe on -the north, clear around to Cabo Cruz on the southwest.</p> - -<p>Both in nature and in its domestic use, cacao and the vanilla bean have -always been more or less closely associated. Both are denizens of the -deep forest, and are indigenous to the two Americas from Mexico to Peru. -The Aztecs of Anhuac, the Mayas of Central America,<a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a> and the subjects of -the Incas, further south, added the delicate flavor of the vanilla to -their chocolate, made from the beans of the caca-huatl, from which the -name of cacao was taken. This association of vanilla with chocolate and -other confectioneries has continued into modern times.</p> - -<p>The so-called vanilla bean is not, as the name would indicate, of the -legume family, but is an orchid, climbing the trunks of trees that grow -on the rich soils of tropical forests. The vine may be germinated from -seed planted in leaf mold at the base of the tree, but where cultivated -it is propagated from cuttings and must have the shade of trees in order -to thrive, climbing the trunks to a height of 20 to 30 feet, by means of -fibrous roots that come from nodes along its length.</p> - -<p>The leaves are bright green, long and fleshy; the flowers are white and -usually fragrant, having eccentric forms peculiar to the orchid family. -The pods, from six to nine inches in length, are cylindrical and some -three-eighths of an inch in thickness. The vine begins to bear in the -third year from planting and will continue to do so for thirty to forty -years with but little care or culture. The pods are gathered before they -are fully ripe, dried in the shade and “sweated” or fermented in order -to develop and fix the delightful aroma for which they are famous.</p> - -<p>It is during this period of fermentation that the bean requires careful -watching and expert knowledge in order that the process of sweating may -be perfect, since upon this chemical change in the texture of the beans -the value of the product really depends. After fermentation the pods are -carefully dried, tied in small bundles and made ready for market or -export. They will keep indefinitely and the high prices secured for very -small bulk renders them an attractive crop to handle.</p> - -<p>The vanilla of commerce is not only used to flavor chocolate, sweetmeats -and liquors, but also enters into the composition of many perfumes, -owing to an aromatic<a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a> alkaloid that exudes from and crystallizes on the -outer coating of the best quality beans. These under normal conditions -are worth from $12 to $16 per pound.</p> - -<p>Owing perhaps to the lack of experimental initiative, the vanilla bean, -although at home in the heavy forests of Cuba, with the exception of a -few instances has never attracted the attention of those who are in a -position to grow and care for this valuable plant. In conjunction with -cacao, coffee, or any industry carried on in the rich forest-covered -mountain valleys of the Island, there is no reason why the culture of -the vanilla bean should not be made very profitable.</p> - -<p>Aside from the removal of the beans from the vine, the only effort -required is that of assisting nature in the fertilization of the -flowers, which in the forest, of course, is carried on by insects, but -for commercial purposes, in order to insure a large crop of beans, it is -well to see that each flower is fertilized by shaking a little of the -pollen upon the stamens. This is readily done with the use of a light -bamboo ladder that may be carried from tree to tree.</p> - -<p>Indians from the eastern forests of Mexico, between Vera Cruz and -Tampico, would readily come to Cuba to teach the best methods of curing -or take charge of the treatment of the beans after picking, and thus -insure the success of a very profitable crop, which up to the present -has received practically no attention.<a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII<br /><br /> -VEGETABLE GROWING</h2> - -<p>W<small>ITH</small> the advent of the American colonists in 1900, truck gardening -sprang rapidly into prominence in Cuba until today it forms an important -part of the small farmer’s revenue. Most of the well-known vegetables of -the United States are grown here, not only for local markets, but for -shipment abroad. They are usually planted at the close of the rainy -season in October or November, and are brought to maturity in time to -reach the North during winter and early spring, when high prices -prevail.</p> - -<p>Those vegetables from which the best results have been obtained are -early potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers, okra, white squash, -and string beans. These may be grown in the rich soils of any part of -the Island, but are only profitable when cultivated close to railroads -or within easy reach of steamship lines having daily sailings from -Havana. Profits depend on location, soil, water supply, intelligent -cultivation and success in reaching markets in which there is a demand -for the product.</p> - -<p>The long belt of land lying just south of the Organ Mountains of Pinar -del Rio, extending from east to west throughout the province, furnishes -the largest tract for vegetable growing in Cuba. The conditions in this -section are exceptionally favorable to that industry. Close to the base -of the mountain range, the surface is rather rolling, but soon slopes -away into the level prairies extending out toward the Caribbean. The -soil as a rule is a dark grey sandy loam, easily worked at all seasons, -and responds quickly to the use of fertilizers and to cultivation.<a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a></p> - -<p>Numerous small streams that have their origin back in the mountains, -furnish excellent natural drainage, and some of them can easily be used -for irrigating purposes, if necessary, in the dry months of February and -March. The Western Railway of Havana runs through the entire length of -the vegetable belt, reinforced by a splendid automobile drive, more or -less parallel, connecting the further extremity of Pinar del Rio with -the markets and wharves of Havana.</p> - -<p>These lands are very productive, and under intelligent management, -especially when irrigation can be employed, may be rendered exceedingly -profitable, through the cultivation of vegetables. In some sections, the -semi-vuelta or Partido tobacco fields monopolize the use of the land -during the fall months, but there are nevertheless hundreds of thousands -of acres in this district that if properly cultivated, and conducted in -connection with canning plants, would yield large revenues to the -Island.</p> - -<p>Nearly all seed is brought from the United States, fresh, each year, and -the planting season for some crops begins in September, extending -through the entire winter, especially where irrigation or fortunate -rains furnish a sufficient amount of moisture to carry the crop through -the dry months of early spring.</p> - -<p>The methods employed in vegetable growing are identical with those of -the United States, and the results are practically the same, aside from -the one important fact that all fall grown vegetables, or those that may -be placed on the markets of large cities in the United States between -January and April, bring, as a rule, very high prices.</p> - -<p>Later in the spring the vegetable gardens of Florida and the Gulf States -come into competition, causing the growers of the Island gradually to -yield to those of sections further north. It is at this time, or in the -late spring, that the canning industry could take care of the great -surplus of vegetables that for any reason might fail to find a -profitable market abroad. Well equipped<a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a> plants could handle this crop -with great benefit both to the vegetable growers and the canners.</p> - -<p>Irish potatoes, planted in the fall so that the crop may be brought to -maturity in March, have proven very successful throughout this section, -as well as in the beautiful Guines Valley, southeast of Havana. The -potato growers of Cuba have experimented with nearly all of the standard -varieties of the United States and it is rather difficult to determine -which has given the best results.</p> - -<p>The Early Rose variety of Irish potato is quite a favorite in Cuba, -owing to its rapid growth and productivity. Later potatoes, while -finding a sale perhaps in the local market, are not considered -profitable, since, as a rule, one can procure during summer and fall -excellent potatoes from Maine and Nova Scotia, with greater economy than -by growing them in Cuba, at times when the land can be more profitably -used for other purposes.</p> - -<p>Potatoes, of course, need barn yard manures and fertilizers, the more -the better; or rather, the greater is the return. The yield varies -according to conditions anywhere from forty to one hundred barrels and -more per acre. The Cuban product is almost invariably of good quality, -and when placed in the eastern markets of the United States in the month -of March, will bring anywhere from $6 to $10 per barrel. Under normal -conditions $8 seems to be the ruling price for Cuban potatoes on the -wharves at New York, where they are sold as exotics or new potatoes. -Thus $500 may be considered a fair return per acre.</p> - -<p>Green peppers, too, have been found to be one of the most satisfactory -and profitable crops in Cuba. They are planted in rows three feet apart, -spaced a foot or more in the row so that they can be kept clean with -adjustable cultivators drawn by light ponies. Hand cultivation, although -sometimes indulged in, with the present price of labor is practically -impossible.<a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a></p> - -<p>A well-known pepper grower of the Guayabal district, in the northwestern -corner of Havana Province, on less than a hundred acres of land, grew -6,000 crates of green peppers in the winter of 1917-18, that netted him -$6 per crate in the City of New York. Peppers are easily grown and -handled, and the market or demand for them seems to be quite constant, -hence they have become one of the favorite vegetables for the export -trade.</p> - -<p>Tomatoes, too, are grown very successfully in Cuba during the late fall -and winter. The seed is secured from reliable houses in the United -States each year, and is selected largely with reference to the firmness -or shipping quality of the fruit. The methods of cultivation are similar -to those employed in the United States. The weeds are usually killed out -of the field in the early spring, and kept down with profitable cover -crops, such as the carita and velvet bean. These, when turned under or -harvested by hogs, place the soil in perfect condition.</p> - -<p>The planting is done usually in October and November and the cultivation -carried on either with native horses or mules, or gasoline-propelled -cultivators. The yield where the water control and other conditions are -favorable, is large, and the price secured in the northern markets -varies from $2 to $5 per half bushel crate. It is true that when -tomatoes from Florida and the Gulf States begin to go north in large -quantities, there are frequently reports of glutted markets and falling -prices. It is then that the canning factory comes to the rescue of the -planter and contracts for the remainder of his stock at satisfactory -prices.</p> - -<p>Of all varieties, the Redfield Beauty is probably the tomato most in -vogue among growers in Cuba. It grows luxuriantly and yields from two -hundred to three hundred crates per acre.</p> - -<p>Eggplants as a rule are successfully grown on all rich mellow soils. The -methods of cultivation are almost<a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a> identical with those employed in -growing tomatoes. A small pear shaped variety is grown for the local -markets in Havana and other cities, but for export purposes it would be -unsatisfactory. The finest varieties known in the States are all found -here. The yield under favorable conditions is large and the crop stands -shipment for long distances without injury.</p> - -<p>As a rule the prices obtained in the north have rendered the growing of -egg plants very profitable. From $3 to $7 per crate are the usual -limitations in price. The uncertainty of this price, however, in -different seasons, has rendered the production of the eggplant rather an -interesting gamble. This is true regardless of the quality of the fruit, -in nearly all products sold in distant markets.</p> - -<p>Okra, or quimbombo, as the vegetable is called in Cuba, while not as a -rule commanding fancy prices, nevertheless brings satisfactory returns, -both abroad and in the local market, where the demand is more or less -steady. Like all others mentioned, it is strictly a late fall or winter -vegetable, and its cultivation is identical with methods employed in the -United States. Prices usually obtained are from two to three dollars a -half bushel crate.</p> - -<p>The growing of lima beans in Cuba has proved a gilt-edge undertaking for -those who have been careful in the selection of seed and proper -cultivation after planting. The price obtained in the United States has -varied between $2 and $8 per hamper, or bean basket, with an average of -perhaps $5. The crop is quickly grown and with sufficient labor to -gather the beans at the proper time the grower is relieved of his only -cause for worry. The labor problem can usually be overcome if the farm -is located near any one of the small towns where help of women and -children is available.</p> - -<p>String beans, while readily grown in Cuba, do not always find a demand -in the northern markets sufficient to justify the fancy prices -frequently obtained for other<a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a> vegetables. The local demand in Havana, -while not large, is nevertheless satisfactory to the small farmer living -within a short distance of the city, where he can deliver his crop -without the expense of railroad transportation.</p> - -<p>The summer squash, too, succeeds very well in Cuba, and if the crop does -not encounter the competition of the growers in the Gulf States, it is, -as a rule, fairly profitable. A variety of the native squash known as -the Calabaza, always finds a ready sale in the local markets. This -prolific Criolla production is almost always planted with corn by the -native farmers, since its yield never fails and its market is constant -and satisfactory.</p> - -<p>Recent experiments have been made by an American grower who has imported -the seed of the small pie-pumpkin into Cuba. To use his own words, “This -variety grows even faster than weeds, and the pumpkins cover the ground -so thick that you can hardly avoid walking on them.” They make a very -fine fall and winter crop, with an average yield of five tons per acre. -This delicate variety of pumpkin, when canned, will probably prove -available for export purposes.</p> - -<p>The great drawback to profitable vegetable growing in Cuba lies largely -in the uncertainty of the northern markets, where prices fluctuate so -rapidly, with the minimum and the maximum so far apart, that it is -difficult for the vegetable grower, a thousand miles away, to count with -any certainty on the returns from his crops when shipped abroad. The -establishment of receiving agents, perhaps, under the control of men who -were financially interested with the growers themselves, might remedy -this difficulty. The canning industry, if established on a sufficiently -broad scale, would also add stability to the price of all crops grown in -Cuba, and place the cultivation of vegetables on a more certain -foundation.</p> - -<p>The introduction of irrigation, wherever possible, insures so generous a -crop of almost any vegetable planted<a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a> in this Island, that the returns -to the grower, even where the price may not be fancy, will be decidedly -remunerative. The incalculable advantages to be secured by irrigation, -especially in the growing of vegetables, planted in the late fall and -gathered during the winter and early spring, when rains are not always -forthcoming, is a matter in which the Department of Agriculture is -deeply interested.</p> - -<p>One of the best irrigation engineers of the United States has been -invited to go over the field of Cuba, and to advise the Government in -regard to the various localities in which irrigation plants may be -installed with success and profit to the growers. These plans when -carried out will prove of marvellous benefit to the agricultural -industry and will greatly increase the revenues derived from tobacco, as -well as from vegetables.</p> - -<p>The great advantage, however, enjoyed by all vegetable growers in Cuba, -lies in the fact that stormy weather never interferes with the -cultivation of crops; sunshine may be depended upon every day of the -year, and the farmer is seldom if ever compelled to lay aside his -implements, and wait for the weather to adjust itself to his needs. In -other words, he can always work if he wants to, and the market abroad, -if he “strikes it right,” may yield him a small fortune from a -comparatively few acres in a very few months.</p> - -<p>It would be misleading to the prospective farmer or stranger to quote -the almost fabulous returns at times secured on some favored spot, but -with irrigation, which insures absolute control of the growing crop, the -profits from vegetable raising may run anywhere from $100 to $500 per -acre, and more.</p> - -<p>Among those “striking it rich” incidents that may be occasionally found, -may be mentioned a little tract of ground consisting of only four acres -of land, located along the railroad track, not 100 yards from a station -on the Western Railway. Here two Spanish storekeepers placed under -cultivation four acres of land that had<a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a> been previously prepared with a -carita bean crop, hog fed and turned under. These partners had a well -sunk in the middle of the tract, and a little gasoline engine installed -that enabled them to adjust the water supply each day to the -requirements of the field.</p> - -<p>Here they planted eggplants, tomatoes, green peppers and Irish potatoes. -The cultivation was done by one man and a pony. During the gathering of -the crops some additional help was required, although the two owners -worked hard themselves during late afternoons and early mornings. The -return from these crops during the four months in which they were in the -ground, amounted to $6,430.</p> - -<p>Incidents of this kind are not by any means common, but nevertheless -they give some indication of what may be accomplished in growing -vegetables in Cuba, when the work is conducted along modern lines and -under intelligent management. Capital, of course, is necessary, as in -all other industries, but the reward, even with the element of the -gamble taken into consideration, is to say the least very tempting.<a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV<br /><br /> -STANDARD GRAINS AND FORAGE</h2> - -<p>C<small>ORN</small> or Maize was probably indigenous to the Island of Cuba, since it -was one of the chief staples of food used by the Siboney Indians at the -time of Columbus’s visit. This cereal may be grown in any of the -provinces, although varieties introduced from the United States do not -give the results that might be expected.</p> - -<p>The native Cuban corn has a comparatively short ear with its point -closed by Nature. This prevents the entrance of the grub or worm, so -destructive to the northern varieties that have been introduced here. -The kernel is hard, bright, yellow, rich in proteins and in oil, and is -very nutritious as a food.</p> - -<p>In spite of the small size of the ear, on rich lands 40 bushels per acre -are frequently secured, so that, taking into consideration the fact that -two crops may be successfully grown in twelve months, the sum total of -the yield is not bad, and the price of maize in the local markets is -always satisfactory. Experiments are being carried on at the present -time towards improving the native Cuban corn, some of which have met -with success.</p> - -<p>The method of growing corn in Cuba has little to recommend it. -Improvements will come, however, as a result of the excellent -instructive work being carried on by the Government Experimental -Station. As a rule, corn in Cuba is planted too close, and with -absolutely no attention paid to the selection of seed; hence we seldom -find more than one ear to a stalk.</p> - -<p>A rather novel experiment, carried on by Mr. F. R. Hall, of Camaguey, -has proved quite satisfactory in increasing the length of the ear. His -corn is grown in hills four feet apart and cultivated in both -directions.<a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a> Two grains are planted in the hill, one a grain of selected -Cuban corn, the other a grain of first-class American corn. The latter -will make the taller stalk of the two, and from the former, or native -stock, the tassel is nipped off, so that only pollen from the American -corn is permitted to fall upon the silk and thus fertilize the native -ear.</p> - -<p>The result of this experiment has been a very much larger ear, the tip -of which has retained the tight twist of the husk, peculiar to native -corn. This closes in and protects the grain from attack of worms or -borers. By selecting from this cross, and again crossing or fertilizing -with Northern corn, a greatly improved variety of maize has been -produced. This experiment is sufficient to demonstrate that a great deal -may be done towards improving both the size and quality of Cuban corn.</p> - -<p>Between the rows, calabaza, a variety of native pumpkin, greatly -resembling that of the United States, is grown as a rule, thus following -one of the precepts of New England. In this connection pumpkins from -Massachusetts seed give excellent results, planted with corn. The demand -for corn in the market, owing to the large amount consumed in the -Island, insures always a good price to the grower.</p> - -<p>Nearly all varieties of millet and kaffir corn thrive well in Cuba and -furnish a very nutritious food for both stock and poultry. This millet, -or “millo,” of which two varieties, the tall white and the short black, -are in common use, is apparently free from enemies, and since it seems -to thrive in seasons either wet or dry, and in lands either moist or -subject to drought, the crop is considered very reliable and hence -profitable especially where poultry raising is contemplated.</p> - -<p>Wheat was grown at one time for home consumption, in the Province of -Santa Clara. Here, on the high table lands, with a comparatively low -temperature during the cool, dry winter months, it came to maturity. In -one locality west of the city of Sancti Spiritus in Santa Clara,<a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a> there -is quite an extensive table land, with an altitude of some 2,000 feet, -where a very good variety of wheat was grown along about the middle of -the 19th century. It is said to have furnished an abundance of good -grain that was highly prized in that section. Just why its cultivation -was abandoned is not known, aside from the fact that most of the -agriculturists found growing sugar cane vastly more profitable. With -money from the sugar crop flour could be purchased and the demands of -the baker satisfied.</p> - -<p>Experiments are contemplated in the near future in the growing of wheat -in this same locality. But regardless of the results, it is more than -probable that custom or inclination will impel the people of Cuba under -normal conditions to purchase their wheat from the United States.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, extensive experiments in the propagation of wheat, the -seed of which has been brought from many countries, are now in process -of development in the grounds of the Government Agricultural Station.</p> - -<p>These will probably be supplemented a little later by plantings from -selected seeds of the most promising varieties on the fertile soils of -high plateaus in southeastern Santa Clara. Experimental work at the -Central or Havana Station facilitates also the study of any disease that -may attack different varieties of wheat before they have been accepted -as permanently successful in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Next to wheat bread, rice is in greater demand than any other food -staple in Cuba. Large quantities are imported every year from India, and -were it not for the low price of the product, greater attention would -probably have been paid to its local production. Upland or dry rice has -been grown to a certain extent in Cuba for many years. Nearly every -farmer with suitable soil, who can command irrigation in any form, has a -small patch of rice for his own consumption, and that grown from the -Valencia seed is much preferred to the imported rice.</p> - -<p>The European War, with its attendant difficulties of<a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a> high freights and -shortages of shipping, has stimulated the planting of rice in Cuba to a -greater extent than ever before. A series of experiments are now being -carried on at the Government Agricultural Station, in order to secure -more definite knowledge in regard to the success of rice in various -soils, altitudes and months of planting. For this purpose seeds of the -Valencia, Barbados and Bolo, the exotics also from Honduras and Japan, -together with American upland and golden rice, are being tried. The -last-named seems excellently adapted to Cuban soil and latitude.</p> - -<p>In order for rice to be successfully grown, however, certain conditions -are absolutely essential. Most important of these is first, a fairly -rich soil, underlaid with an impervious subsoil of clay, and located in -sections where irrigation, or the application of water to the crop, may -be possible. Comparatively level valleys or basins, lying close to the -mountains, that have impervious clay subsoil, are considered favorite -localities. The preparation for rice, as with most other crops, -necessitates the extermination of all weeds and the thorough ploughing -or pulverizing of the soil, after which it should be planted with -drilling machines as is wheat or oats. The sowing of the rice in seed -beds to be afterwards transplanted requires entirely too much hand labor -for the successful cultivation of this or any other crop in Cuba, unless -perhaps an exception might be made of tobacco and a few winter -vegetables. Machinery adapted to the cultivation of rice or any other -crop, is absolutely essential to successful agriculture in Cuba at the -present time.</p> - -<p>Rice is planted with the earliest spring rains of March or April, when -possible, so that the crop may be taken off in August or September. When -lack of early rains renders this dangerous, it is planted in late May, -or early June, and gathered in the month of October. Seeds of a variety -of rice that is said to thrive in salt marshes have been received at the -Experimental Station and will be thoroughly tried out a little later.<a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a></p> - -<p>North and east of Moron, in western Camaguey, are low savannas extending -over thousands of acres that are covered during much of the rainy season -with a few inches of water, and where the surface, even during the dry -season, is moist, although not muddy. These great level areas have -practically no drainage and are almost invariably saturated with water, -although in no sense of the word can they be considered swamps, and if -planted in rice, as are the low prairies of southern Louisiana and -Texas, would seem to give promise of success. In the district above -mentioned, these flat damp lands extend in a wild belt for many miles -along the north coast of Camaguey, between the mountains and the ocean. -They are covered with grass on which cattle feed during the dry season.</p> - -<p>There are many other similar lands located at different points along the -coast of Cuba. If these could be successfully dedicated to the -cultivation of rice, following where convenient the methods prevalent in -the western Gulf States, an enormous saving to the Island would be made -as well as the development of a now neglected industry. The importation -of rice from the orient and other foreign countries amounts to -approximately three hundred and thirty million pounds, valued at -$12,000,000.</p> - -<p>With the increase of population and the demand for rice as a staple food -product, the cultivation of this grain, so popular in all Latin-American -Republics, will undoubtedly be considered. Experiments now being carried -on at the Government Station will ultimately determine the varieties and -conditions under which it can be most economically and successfully -grown in Cuba.</p> - -<p>In spite of the fact that two of the best grasses known, both of which -are said to yield even better here than in either Africa or the plains -of Parana, whence they came, flourish in Cuba, the Island still imports -large quantities of hay from the United States for use in cities. The -potreros or meadows of Cuba with their great fields,<a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a> stretching over -many leagues of territory, are as rich as any known, and can support as -a rule at least twenty head of cattle to every caballeria or 33 acres.</p> - -<p>The Parana grass of South America grows on the low lands of Cuba with a -luxuriance that will almost impede travel through it on horseback. The -jointed stems of this grass, interlacing with each other, frequently -grow to a length of ten or 12 feet. The same is true of the Guinea, -brought from the west coast of Africa, which is adapted to the higher -lands and hillsides, and where the soil beneath is rich, it often -reaches a height of 6 or 8 feet, completely hiding the grazing cattle or -the man who may be endeavoring to force his way afoot across the field -in search of them. The native indigenous grasses of the Island, although -suitable for grazing purposes, are rather tough and hard and will not -fatten livestock as will the two grasses referred to above.</p> - -<p>Probably the best permanent pasture in Cuba is secured by planting -Bermuda. This grass has been imported from the United States and -installed in Cuba with splendid results. On rich soils the growth is -rank, and the sod firm, with a larger yield probably on account of the -more favorable climate. Stock of all kind, especially horses and hogs, -are very fond of the Bermuda grass, preferring it in fact to any other.</p> - -<p>Some stock growers, in the Province of Camaguey, are planting large -fields of it, as one rancher explained “just to tickle the palate” of -his brood mares. This same grass, too, is being used for lawns in nearly -all parks and private grounds in the neighborhood of Havana. With a -little care at the beginning of the rainy season, a splendid firm lawn -can be made with Bermuda in a few weeks.</p> - -<p>Recognizing the value of alfalfa, which is today probably the standard -forage of the Western and Southwestern States of North America, -experiments were made in Cuba at different times, but not always with -success. A fairly good stand was apparently secured on President<a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a> -Menocal’s farm “El Chico,” just out of Havana. But in spite of earnest -efforts on the part of the gardener, weeds eventually choked it out, so -that the field was abandoned. At the Experimental Station a small tract -of alfalfa has been recently planted that seems to give promise of -permanence and complete success.</p> - -<p>In the Province of Camaguey, a well-known stock raiser from Texas -secured seed from his native state that had been inoculated, and planted -it in drills three feet apart. All weeds had been previously -exterminated through the use of a heavy cover crop of velvet beans, -turned under. As soon as the alfalfa began to show, light-pony-drawn -cultivators were kept running between the rows, cutting out every weed -that appeared, and allowing the alfalfa gradually to spread, until the -spaces between rows were completely covered, and further cultivation was -unnecessary. The soil was rich and moist, and could be irrigated in -February or March if necessary. From his alfalfa today, he is making -seven heavy cuttings a year, which demonstrates the fact that this -valuable forage plant under favorable conditions can be successfully -grown in Cuba.</p> - -<p>Cowpeas of almost all varieties are successfully grown in Cuba as they -are in the Gulf States of America, where the climate, aside from cold -rains and frost in winter, is somewhat similar to Cuba. Both the peas -and the pea-vine hay command good prices throughout the year, in the -local markets of the cities; hence the cultivation of this excellent -forage plant and vegetable, especially when grown with corn, is in -common practice.</p> - -<p>A variety of the cowpea, known as La Carita, is very popular in Cuba, -owing to its large yield, and to the fact that after a shower of rain it -can be planted with profit any month of the year, with the exception -perhaps of July and August. The carita belongs to the running or ground -covering variety, and if grown with corn will use the stalks on which to -climb, without detriment to the major crop. The pods are long and filled -with peas<a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a> about the size of the small Navy beans of New England. The -color is a cream white, with a little dark stain around the germ, which -gave it the name of Carita or little face. The pea for table use is -excellent, of splendid flavor, and becomes soft and palatable with an -hour’s cooking. The vines make good hay, and the average yield of beans -is about 1200 pounds to the acre, which at prices varying from five to -ten cents per pound forms quite a satisfactory crop.</p> - -<p>The kinds of beans grown in Cuba are almost unlimited. Various soils of -the Island seem adapted to the legume family, and many varieties have -been introduced not only from the United States but from Mexico and -Central America. One indigenous bean, the botanical name for which has -not been determined, is found growing wild along the southern coast of -Pinar del Rio. The pods are well filled, and although the bean is very -small it is nevertheless delicious eating. The running vines make a -perfect mat or surface carpet and yield an abundance of hay, nutritious -and greatly liked by stock. The origin and habits of this bean, and the -extent to which it might be improved by cultivation, are being studied -by the Government Experimental Station at the present time.</p> - -<p>Of all forage and food crops grown in Cuba, there is none, perhaps, more -universally successful than the peanut. The little Spanish variety, -owing to its heavy production of oil, is popular and very prolific in -all parts of the Island where the soil is sandy.</p> - -<p>On the red lands, or those that have a clay basis, the Virginia peanuts -thrive wonderfully well. Unlike the little Spanish, the Virginia, or -larger varieties, are usually planted in the spring months, and continue -growing all through the summer. The yield of the Virginia peanut is -large, and the hay resulting from the vines, under favorable conditions, -will approximate two tons or more per acre. This hay is considered one -of the best forage crops, and the field, after the peanuts have been<a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a> -removed for market, can be very profitably converted into a hog pasture, -so that the small nuts, and those that escape the harvester, are turned -into excellent account, and the field is put into splendid condition for -the next planting.</p> - -<p>The yield of the Spanish peanut varies according to conditions of soil, -and control of water, anywhere from 40 to 100 bushels per acre. Every -bushel of Spanish peanuts will produce one gallon of oil, the price of -which at the present time exceeds $1. From each bushel of nuts with the -shells ground in, about 20 pounds of splendid oil-cake are secured. -This, fed to stock, especially to hogs, in combination with corn or -yucca, is undoubtedly one of the finest foods for fattening and quick -growth that can be found. Peanut-cake readily brings in Havana from $30 -to $40 per ton.<a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV<br /><br /> -ANIMALS</h2> - -<p>C<small>UBA</small>, like the other West Indian Islands, is strangely poor in its -indigenous mammals. The largest wild animal is the deer, a beautiful -creature, resembling much the graceful Cervidae of the Virginia -mountains. It is in fact a sub-species of the American deer. But these -were imported into Cuba from some unknown place, and at a time of which -there is no record extant. They are very plentiful throughout nearly all -of the thinly settled sections of Cuba, especially in the Province of -Pinar del Rio, where, in places not hunted, they exhibit very little -fear of man and frequently appear near native huts in the hills, drawn -there probably through curiosity, which is one of the weak points of -these most beautiful denizens of the forest.</p> - -<p>The abundance of food and absence of cold throughout the year, as well -as the shelter given by the dense woodland and mountains, has led to -their rapid increase. The game laws also protect them from destruction -with the exception of a brief period during the late fall and winter.</p> - -<p>A peculiar animal known as the Hutia, of which there are three varieties -in Cuba, together with the small anteater, known as the Solenoden, -represent the entire native mammalian fauna of the Island. Hutia is the -name given in Cuba to three species of the Caprimys, which belong to -this country. The largest of the three is distributed over the entire -Island. It weighs about ten pounds and is frequently seen in the tree -tops of the forest, living on leaves and tender bark. The other species -are only about half the size of the former. One of these has a<a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a> long -rat-like tail with which it hangs to limbs of trees, as does the -American opossum. The third species is confined to the Province of -Oriente. Outside of Cuba only two of the Caprimys or Hutias are found, -one in the Bahamas, and the other in Jamaica and Swan Island, now almost -extinct. The Hutias are arboreal rodents. Those of the mountains rear -their little families among the boulders of the tall sierras, where the -feeble voices of the young can often be heard by one who listens -carefully. Their faint cry is very suggestive of the peep of little -chickens. Hutias are sometimes kept as pets in the country.</p> - -<p>The large rodents, as a new world product, attained their maximum -development a very long while ago, during the middle Tertiary period. -Since that time the group has been steadily diminishing, and the -extensive land areas over which they once thronged have undergone many -changes. The Caprimys are a stranded remnant whose ancestral relations -are difficult to trace.</p> - -<p>The largest bird of the Island is the Cuban sandhill crane (Grus -nesiotes). This rather rare representative of the feathered tribe is -found occasionally on grassy plains surrounding the western end of the -Organ Mountains of Pinar del Rio. They are also quite plentiful along -the foothills, and on the grass covered plateaus just south of the -Cubitas Mountains, in Camaguey, where they were at one time quite tame. -These birds are found also in Mexico and in the United States, and when -less than a year old are excellent eating. They stand about four feet in -height and are only a trifle smaller than the whooping crane of the -western plains of the United States.</p> - -<p>The guinea-fowl is one of the most common birds of Cuba and was -introduced by the early Spanish conquerors who brought it from the Cape -Verde Islands, whence it had been carried from Africa. This bird, which -has exceptional ability in taking care of itself, while found on nearly -every native farm, soon became wild in Cuba, and is quite plentiful in -some of the dense<a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a> forests of the Island, especially in the Province of -Camaguey, where it occasionally furnished food for the insurgents during -the War of Independence. The wild guinea is excellent eating, resembling -in size and quality the prairie chicken once so common on the western -prairies of the United States.</p> - -<p>The domestic turkey is, of course, indigenous to almost all parts of -North and Central America. Of its introduction into Cuba there is -practically no record. The climate of the Island is very congenial to -turkeys, hence far less trouble is found in raising them than in the -United States.</p> - -<p>The Cuban “bob-white” with its cheerful note is common throughout the -Island. He is slightly smaller and darker than the American quail, which -some time in the remote past migrated to Cuba. The game laws of the -Island protect both of these birds quite efficiently, otherwise they -would long ago have been extinguished.</p> - -<p>The ubiquitous turkey buzzard is also common in Cuba and quite as -obnoxious as in the southern states of America.</p> - -<p>The little Cuban sparrow hawk, similar to if not identical with that of -the United States, is also found in the Island, as is also the king -bird, which retains his pugnacious habits, not hesitating to tackle -anything that flies. Many varieties of the owl are also found in Cuba, -including the large handsome white owl.</p> - -<p>The mocking bird of the South, that king of song birds, to which -Linnaeus gave the name of Minus Polyglottus Orpheus, is usually in -evidence with his beautiful song, if not always in sight. The sweet -voiced meadow lark of the United States also is very common in Cuba.</p> - -<p>The wild pigeons, once so plentiful in the United States, are still -found in Cuba. Their roosting places are in the deep forests. The -Province of Camaguey seems to be their favorite rendezvous. Other -pigeons found in Cuba are the West Indian mourning dove, the Zenaida -dove, and the little Cuban ground dove. Another<a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a> beautiful -representative of the dove family is the native white crowned pigeon -(Columba Leucocephala) gentle, lovable creatures that make delightful -pets for children. Two specimens of these doves are domiciled in the -Zoological Park at Washington.</p> - -<p>Parrots, of course, are indigenous to Cuba. Several varieties are -represented, the largest of which, with its brilliant green plumage and -red head, can be easily tamed, while its linguistic ability rapidly -develops with a little patience. These birds when not mating fly in -great flocks, sometimes alighting near homes in the forest, their -unmelodious chatter rendering conversation impossible. The squabs are -excellent eating and are sometimes used for that purpose. Another Cuban -parrot, the Amazona Leucocephala, makes its nest in holes excavated in -the upper reaches of the royal palm, 50 or 60 feet above the ground.</p> - -<p>A striking bird, peculiar to the coastal regions, is the Cuban oriole; a -black bird with bright yellow shoulders, rump and tail coverts, the -under side of the wings also yellow. As a general alarmist, he is equal -to the cat bird, also found in Cuba. A little sneaking about the thicket -will lure the oriole from his hiding place and cause him to scold and -revile the intruder. The Cuban green woodpecker and the white-eyed vireo -are also garrulous birds often met in company with the oriole.</p> - -<p>One of the most beautiful birds of Cuba is the little tody, which, with -the exception of humming birds that are also very plentiful, is the -smallest of the feathered inhabitants of the Island. Its length from tip -of bill to tip of tail is only a little over three inches. The entire -back of the bird is a brilliant grass green. On its throat is a large -patch of bright scarlet, bordered by a zone of white at the angle of the -bill, replaced toward the posterior end of the patch by a bright blue. -The under parts are white and smoky, while the flanks are washed with a -pale scarlet. This little jewel of a bird may be found anywhere in -Western Cuba, usually in low shrubbery<a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>, bordering some path, from which -he invites your attention by a song that recalls faintly the note of the -kingfisher.</p> - -<p>Scattered throughout the island and especially plentiful in the Sierras, -is the Cuban lizard-cuckoo, known to the natives as the arriero. He is -about twenty inches in length, the long broad tail representing about -three-fifths while the bill will add almost two inches. The arriero is -one of the most interesting members of Cuban avifauna. His color is a -pale greyish brown with a metallic flush. The throat and the anterior -part of the under-surfaces are grey, washed with pale brown, while the -posterior portion is a pale reddish brown. The large, broad tail -feathers are tipped with white and crossed by a broad band of black.</p> - -<p>He is a veritable clown, of curious and inquiring turn of mind, and -extremely amusing in his antics. Having responded to your call, he will -inspect you carefully, moving his tail sidewise, or cocking it up like a -wren. He may slink away like a shadow, or he may spread his wings and -tumble over himself, chattering as if he had discovered the most amusing -thing in the world, and was bubbling over with mirth.</p> - -<p>One of the most strikingly colored birds in Cuba is the trogon. The top -of his head is metallic purple, the entire back metallic green, while -the under parts are pale grey, a little lighter at the throat. The -posterior and under tail coverts are scarlet, while the primaries of the -wing, and part of the secondaries, are marked with white bars. The outer -tail feathers also are tipped with broad bands of white, the combination -giving to the bird a strikingly brilliant appearance. The Trogon is -inclined to conceal his beauty in thickets, and rarely displays himself -in the open. His call suggests that of the northern cuckoos.</p> - -<p>Water birds are very plentiful, especially in the shallow lagoons that -for hundreds of miles separate the mainland from the outlying islands. -The largest and most<a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a> striking of these is probably the flamingo, great -flocks of which may be seen in the early morning, spreading out like a -line of red-coated soldiers along the sand spits, or restingas, that -frequently reach out from shore a mile or more, into the shallow salt -waters. The flamingos are very shy, seldom permitting man to approach -within 200 yards.</p> - -<p>Another beautiful water bird is the Sevilla that reaches, with maturity, -about the size of the Muscovy cock. Until nearly a year old this -beautiful inhabitant of the lagoons is snow white, after which his color -changes to a bright carmine red. In the unfrequented lagoons he is still -very plentiful. In the same waters are found many varieties of the heron -family, including the much sought for little white heron, with its -beautiful plumage, from which the aigrettes so popular among women as -ornaments are obtained.</p> - -<p>One of the most peculiar and conspicuous birds in Cuba is the ani, found -everywhere throughout the Island where there are cattle, even -approaching the outskirts of large cities. The ani is about the size of -a small crow, jet black in color with a metallic sheen, and carries a -peculiar crest on the upper mandible. It lives almost entirely on ticks -or other parasitic insects that trouble cattle. It will sit perched on -the back of an ox, hunting industriously for ticks, which process or -favor is apparently enjoyed by the patient beasts.<a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI<br /><br /> -STOCK RAISING</h2> - -<p>S<small>OME</small> of the men who followed Christopher Columbus across the Atlantic at -the close of the 15th century were accustomed to stock raising in Spain, -and all of them realized the value of the horse to the mounted warrior, -armed with long lance or sharp cutlass, with which he could ride down -the poor naked Indians of Cuba. They had come from Seville and the -southern provinces, and had perhaps acquired their appreciation of the -horse from the Arab, who made this noble animal his companion, and to -all intents and purposes a member of his family.</p> - -<p>The conquerors brought with them their animals and thus the equine race -was introduced for the first time into the Western Hemisphere. All that -came from Spain in the early days were of Arabian stock, which, although -permitted to deteriorate, has still retained many of the characteristics -of the parent stock, among which are endurance and gentleness. A colt -that has always run wild over the ranges of Cuba, can be easily broken -to the saddle in a few hours.</p> - -<p>Owing to the abundance of food throughout the year, and to the absence -of sleet, snow or cold rains, that sometimes chill and retard the growth -of young colts, this Island is probably quite as well adapted to the -breeding and raising of horses as any place in the world. During the -first Government of Intervention, a large number of American horses were -brought to Cuba by the Army of Occupation, and in spite of this abrupt -change of climate and conditions, cavalry officers stated that never -before had they found a place where their mounts<a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a> seemed to thrive so -well, and to remain so free from disease. Out of two thousand horses -stationed at Camp Columbia, in the year 1901, only three were found in -the hospital, two of these suffering from accidents, and the third, from -a mild case of imported glanders.</p> - -<p>The native horses, although smaller than the American, are hardy, gentle -and easily kept, and unless taught to eat corn, invariably prefer the -rich grasses to which they have always been accustomed. This native -stock, when crossed with good Kentucky, Missouri or Montana stallions, -produces really excellent service animals, especially for the saddle.</p> - -<p>Since the accession of General Menocal to the Presidency, and especially -since his appointment of General Sanchez Agramonte as Secretary of -Agriculture, rapid strides have been made in the introduction of fine -thoroughbred stallions, most of them gaited saddle animals that have -been imported from Kentucky, and brought to Cuba for breeding purposes. -These animals have been distributed by the Department of Agriculture -throughout the different provinces, and improvement in resulting colts -is already beginning to be apparent.</p> - -<p>Probably one half of the native horses of Cuba in 1895 were killed or -rendered useless during the War of Independence, which began in that -year. This, of course, was a great loss to the Island, but so rapid is -the rate of increase in this balmy climate that horses have again become -quite plentiful and consequently cheap.</p> - -<p>Registered in the Department of Agriculture, in the year 1918, for the -Province of Oriente, were 218,876 horses; in Santa Clara were 212,985; -in Camaguey 129,023; in Matanzas, 108,900; in Havana, 94,214, and in -Pinar del Rio, 63,021; making a total of 827,019 registered in the -Island.</p> - -<p>The small, pony-built, light stepping, sure-footed horses, of the -original or native stock of the Island, especially in the interior, are -quite cheap; mares selling in some places at from $10 to $20, while -geldings of the<a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a> same grade will bring from $20 to $40, and stallions -from $25 to $50.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, a well gaited and spirited native saddle horse, in the -City of Havana, will find a ready market at anywhere from $75 to $200. -Imported saddle animals, well gaited, and from good stables, bring in -Cuba prices varying from $300 to $2,000; the price varying with the -merit of the animal and the fancy of the purchaser. With splendid -grasses, balmy climate, and excellent water, there is no reason why the -breeding of horses in Cuba, especially those types suited for fancy -saddle animals, military remounts and polo ponies, should not be -profitable and successful in every sense of the word.</p> - -<p>Good mules are always in demand in Cuba, although not many are bred in -the Island, and most of them up to the present have been imported from -Missouri, Texas and other sections of the United States. Under normal -conditions a pair of good mules in Havana will bring from $250 to $500. -Scattered throughout the country in 1918 were approximately 61,000 -mules, and about 3,250 asses.</p> - -<p>When the first Spanish settlers, most of whom were lured to Cuba through -the hope of finding gold in quantities never realized, saw the great, -broad and rich grass covered savannas of Camaguey, dreams of riches from -cattle raising with far more promise than the fortunes expected from -easily found gold tempered their disappointment, and laid the foundation -for future prosperity.</p> - -<p>A few cattle were brought over from Spain in the first expeditions and -left at Santo Domingo, where they at once began to multiply and thrive. -From this fountain head, Diego Velasquez brought several boatloads to -Cuba, that were distributed among his friends in the seven cities of -which he was the founder.</p> - -<p>The original cattle were of a type peculiar to Spain in the 16th -century; rather small, well shaped and handsome<a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a> animals, of a light -brown or dark jersey color, similar to that of the wild deer in shade, -and usually carrying a dark streak along the spine, with a rather heavy -cross of black at the shoulders. Although almost no care was given to -these animals, and no attempt made at selection or improvement of the -breed, they continued to multiply and thrive on the rich native grasses -of the savannas throughout the Island.</p> - -<p>In 1895, there were approximately 3,000,000 head registered in Cuba by -the Spanish colonial authorities. Beef was then plentiful and cheap, and -Cuba was supplying the British colonies of the Bahama Islands with -nearly all the meat consumed. Most of it was shipped from the harbor of -Nuevitas across the banks to Nassau.</p> - -<p>With the beginning of the War of Independence, as in all wars, food was -a matter of prime necessity; hence the great herds of cattle roaming the -fields of the eastern provinces became at once legitimate prey, and -since there was no commissary department, and but little effort made on -either side to protect beef from unnecessary slaughter, thousands of -head of cattle were killed, not alone for food, but by each army, the -insurgent and the Spanish, in order to prevent the other side from -getting the benefit of the food. With this reckless method of -destruction, at the expiration of the struggle in 1898, 85%, perhaps -90%, of the cattle of the Island had been wiped out of existence.</p> - -<p>The shortage of beef, of course, was serious, and at the beginning of -the first Government of Intervention steps were taken by General Brooke -and later by General Wood to encourage the immediate importation of -cattle from any locality where they might happen to be available. Hence -cattle were imported indiscriminately from Texas, Louisiana, Florida and -Venezuela, with the natural result that the breeding animals of -succeeding years were composed of a very mixed and ill selected lot.</p> - -<p>With the installation of the Republic, measures were<a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a> taken to remedy -this misfortune, and to improve the breed. Many private individuals who -had always been interested in the cattle industry imported thoroughbred -bulls from the United States. Quite a number of American stock raisers, -mostly from Texas and other southern states, attracted by the stories of -fine cheap grazing lands, with fresh grass throughout the year, came to -Cuba and settled in Camaguey. Many of these brought with them a stock of -better animals.</p> - -<p>When General Menocal assumed the Presidency in 1913 the further -importation of good cattle was encouraged, and an Agricultural -Exposition or Stock Fair was held at the Quinto de Molinos, or Botanical -Gardens in Havana, where stock breeders from all over the world vied -with each other in the exhibition of fine, thoroughbred animals of many -kinds. An excellent exhibition of Jerseys, imported in 1901 by Joaquin -Quilez, then Governor of the Province of Pinar del Rio, represented a -fine grade of milch cows.</p> - -<p>Cattle came not only from the United States, but crossed the Atlantic -from Holland and from France, while a very attractive breed of handsome, -dark red cattle, were placed on exhibition by the late Sir William Van -Horne, which he had previously imported from the Western coast of -Africa. Most interesting, perhaps, of all, were several specimens of the -Zebu, a large variety of the sacred cattle of India, that had previously -been introduced from abroad, and kept at the Experimental Station at -Santiago de las Vegas.</p> - -<p>The Zebu, although of somewhat self-willed disposition, and with an -inclination to jump any fence under seven feet, is nevertheless proving -a very important addition to the breeding stock of Cuba. This largest -specimen of the bovine species, standing at the shoulders some six feet -in height, when crossed with the ordinary cow of Cuba, produces a much -larger and stronger animal, with this very important advantage, that at -two years of<a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a> age, a weight equivalent to or in excess of the ordinary -three years old, is attained, while the quality of the meat is in no way -impaired.</p> - -<p>The Zebu is not only valuable for beef breeding purposes but is probably -unequaled in the capacity of a draft ox. A pair of Zebus, when yoked to -a cart or wagon, will drop into a trot with an ordinary load at daylight -in the morning, and without serious effort make fifty miles by sunset. -The strength of these animals is almost incredible, and the cross with -the common cow will undoubtedly furnish a valuable adjunct to successful -stock growing in the Republic.</p> - -<p>In all stock raising enterprises, plenty of fresh water is absolutely -essential. Rivers or running streams are most desirable acquisitions to -any ranch. Where these cannot be found, wells are usually sunk and water -met at depths varying from twenty to two hundred feet. In the foothills -and mountainous districts, never failing streams are found in abundance.</p> - -<p>There still remain hundreds of thousands of acres of well watered and -well drained lands, that possess all the conditions desired for stock -raising. Much of the territory formerly devoted to grazing has been -recently planted in sugar cane, owing to the high prices of sugar, -resulting from the European War. In spite of this fact there are still -large tracts in nearly every province of the Island that not only are -available for stock raising, but would, if sown in grasses and forage -plants, produce, under proper management, returns per acre quite as -satisfactory as those derived from sugar cane.</p> - -<p>In both Havana and Matanzas Provinces good lands command a price that is -rather prohibitive for grazing purposes. But in Pinar del Rio, and the -three large eastern provinces of the Island, there are still extensive -tracts, both in the level sections, and in the foothills, that are ideal -grazing lands, and if not absorbed in the near future by the cane -planters, these lands will eventually, owing to their advantages for -stock raising, yield revenues<a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a> quite as satisfactory as those of any -other in the Republic.</p> - -<p>These lands can be secured at the present time, in large tracts, at -prices varying from $15 to $50 per acre, and if properly administered, -will easily yield an annual net return from 25% to 50% on the -investment. One prominent stock raiser in the Province of Camaguey, an -American who, starting with nothing, has built up a very tidy fortune in -the last ten years, stated that his return in the year 1918 represented -a profit of 104% on his capital invested. This excellent showing, -however, may have resulted from the practice of buying calves at low -figures that have been dropped in less advantageous sections, and -removing them to rich potreros where they were quickly fattened for the -Havana market.</p> - -<p>Cuba at the present time is importing approximately $10,000,000 worth of -pork and pork products annually, notwithstanding the fact that this -Island, owing to exceptional conditions for raising hogs economically, -could not only supply the local demand, but could and will ultimately, -export pork products to all of the Latin American countries bordering on -the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>Hogs breed twice a year in Cuba, and the climate, free from extremes of -heat or cold, enables probably a larger percentage of the young to be -brought to maturity, with less care and less risk, than in any section -of the United States. Science today has rendered it possible to -eliminate the danger from contagious disease to pork; hence it is that -raising of small stock, especially hogs, under the supervision of -intelligent management, is bound to prove one of the most remunerative -industries of this country.</p> - -<p>Hogs were introduced into Cuba from Spain by the early Spanish settlers, -but no effort was made either to improve the breed by selection or even -to prevent its retrograding through lack of care and good food. Nearly -all hogs raised in Cuba, even at the present time, are<a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a> permitted to run -in droves in the forests and foothills of the thinly settled sections, -as did their ancestors four centuries ago.</p> - -<p>Even the owners of these droves have but little idea of the number of -hogs belonging to them. Monteros, or forest men, are hired to herd them, -which is done with the assistance of dogs. The hogs in this way are -followed from place to place where the forests may furnish natural food -for the mothers and their progeny. As a rule, at evening each day, the -montero or herder, in order to keep up a partial contact between him and -his drove, carries a few ears of corn slung over his shoulder in a sack, -or to the saddle of his horse. This he shells and drops as he rides -along the narrow trails of the forest, uttering at the same time a -peculiar cry or call, heard in the mountain jungles of the hog -districts, when the monteros are coaxing their herds out into the open, -so that they may catch a glimpse of them before they dodge back into the -leafy glades of the interior.</p> - -<p>This semi-savage breed of hogs of course would cause a smile if seen on -a first-class stock farm in the United States. He is usually black in -color, long and lank, resembling very much the “razor back,” once common -in the southern part of the United States. He is prolific, a good -fighter, and hustles for his own living, since nothing is provided for -him excepting what he picks up in the forest. This, however, is pretty -good feed.</p> - -<p>The royal palm that covers many of the hillsides and slopes of the long -mountain chains throughout Cuba, produces a small nut called palmiche, -which furnishes a never-failing food and aids the stock man greatly in -raising hogs. The palmiche, picked up by the animals at the base of the -palms or cut by the monteros, who with the assistance of a rope easily -climb these tall smooth barked ornaments of the forest, will keep -animals in fairly good condition throughout the year.</p> - -<p>The palmiche, however, although only about the size of the kernel of a -hazel nut, is very hard, and much of it<a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a> is rather indigestible. This -nut, when ground and pressed yields about 20% of excellent oil, either -for lubricating or commercial purposes, while the residue of the nut, or -pressed cake of the palmiche, from which the worthless part has been -separated previous to grinding, owing to its rich content of protein and -oil, furnishes an easily digested and splendid food.</p> - -<p>The recent demand for oil has resulted in the introduction of a number -of presses in Cuba since the beginning of the European War, and the -palmiche cake is being placed on the market as a stock food product. In -this form it is quite probable that a valuable adjunct will soon be -added to the other natural foods of the country.</p> - -<p>Palmiche fed pork in Cuba, or for that matter wherever it has been -eaten, is considered a greater delicacy than any other pork in the -world, and in this Island is preferred to either turkey or chicken. This -is owing to the peculiar nutty flavor which the palmiche imparts to the -meat of the forest-bred hog. Young palmiche fed pork, known as lechon, -roasted over a hardwood or charcoal fire, during the holidays of -Christmas and New Year’s in Havana, readily retails at 75¢ to $1 per -pound, and little roasting pigs at that time of the year will bring from -five to ten dollars each.</p> - -<p>The pork industry, however, in Cuba, to be really successful should be -conducted along lines similar to those of the United States. Excellent -food can be provided for hogs, fresh and sweet at all times of the year, -simply by planting the various crops with reference to the season and -period needed for feeding. Among those foods best adapted to sows and -growing pigs in Cuba are peanuts, cow peas, sweet potatoes, sugar cane, -calabasa or pumpkins, chufas, malanga, and other root crops peculiar to -the country. For topping off, or putting into condition, shoats for six -weeks before being sent to market should be fed on either corn or yucca, -or both.</p> - -<p>The latter, yucca, is one of the best root crops grown in<a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a> the Island -for fattening hogs. The tuber, some three or four feet in length, with a -diameter of three or four inches, comes from a closely jointed plant -that at maturity varies in height from three to five feet. The stalk of -these plants, if cut into short joints, and planted in furrows about -three feet apart, produces its crop of tubers in about twelve months, -although the yield will increase for five or six months after this. The -yucca tubers are covered with a cocoanut brown peel, while the inside, -consisting of almost pure starch, is white as milk.</p> - -<p>Yucca will produce a splendid, firm fat on pork in a very short time, -and has the advantage over corn in the fact that the weight of the crop, -from an acre of land, varies from four to twelve tons, according to the -quality of the soil, and hogs delight in harvesting the crop themselves.</p> - -<p>At the Experimental Station at Santiago de las Vegas may be seen many -excellent breeds of hogs that were introduced from the United States -some years ago. Among these are found the Duroc or Jersey Red, the -Hampshire, the Chester White, the Berkshire and Tamworth, all of which -under the favorable conditions found at the Station have done remarkably -well. Interesting experiments on the various foods of the Island, and -their adaptability as food for hogs, are being carried on there -throughout the year. Those breeds which seem to give the greatest -promise, up to the present, are the Duroc and the Hampshire. Some very -interesting animals have been produced from crosses between Hampshires, -Durocs and Tamworths, the shoulder mark or saddle band of the Hampshire -being prominent in all of its crosses.</p> - -<p>The population of Cuba is rapidly approaching three millions, and no -people in the world are more addicted to the use of pork in all its -forms than those not only in Cuba but in all the Latin American -Republics lying to the west and south of the Caribbean. The hog industry -at the present time does not begin to supply the<a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a> local demand, and -probably will not for some years to come. Fresh pork before the European -war seldom varied throughout the year from the standard price of ten -cents per pound on the hoof, while hams imported from the United States -brought twenty-five cents at wholesale in Havana.</p> - -<p>With the use of dams and turbines, power can be easily secured from the -many mountain streams with which to furnish refrigeration and cold -storage, and there is no reason why a pork-packing industry, combining -the curing of hams, shoulders, etc., should not be carried on -successfully. Branches of large packing houses in the United States have -long imported their hams and shoulders, in brine, afterwards smoking -them in Cuba. Experts in pork packing soon discovered that most of the -small hard woods of the Cuban forests were splendidly adapted for -smoking meat, giving it a piquant and aromatic flavor, pleasing to the -taste.</p> - -<p>With the large local demand for hams, shoulders, bacon, etc., a -profitable business is assured from the beginning, while the proximity -of so many Latin Republics south and west of the Caribbean render the -prospect of the export trade very promising.</p> - -<p>Owing to the genial climate, sheep in Cuba, lacking the necessity for -wool with which to retain warmth, very naturally lose it within a -comparatively few years. Mutton, however, always commands a good price -in the local markets, hence it is that the raising of sheep for food, -especially by those small farmers who are close to large markets, will -always yield a satisfactory return.</p> - -<p>The large hotels of Havana, especially during the tourist season, are -compelled to supply mutton of good quality to their guests, and since -the local supply is not sufficient, a considerable amount of this -excellent food is imported, dressed, from the United States. In this -latitude, where green grass may be found in abundance throughout the -year, sheep may be profitably raised and used in many ways. They are -close grazers and will<a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a> keep down the heavy growth of grass in citrus -fruit groves, and also along the roadsides and in the surface drains -that border hundreds of miles of automobile drives scattered throughout -the Island.</p> - -<p>Thousands of dollars are expended by the Department of Public Works -every year in cutting out this rank growth of grass, so that the flow of -water in the ditches may not be impeded. This work could undoubtedly be -done by sheep, and a great deal of manual labor be saved, if the system -of roadside grazing was once introduced into this country. Sheep are -found in small numbers throughout all parts of the Island, and up to the -present the Government has made no attempt to register them.</p> - -<p>So far no discrimination has been used in introducing those breeds of -sheep best suited for the production of mutton. That which the Island -has is usually tender, and of excellent flavor, and if small farmers -would take the trouble to import good rams from desirable breeds in the -United States, the raising of mutton, even as a side issue, would add -greatly to the revenue of farms located near large consuming centers.</p> - -<p>The Republic of Mexico for many years has derived a very large revenue -from the sale of goat skins, most of which were purchased by the New -England shoe factories, while the by-products in the form of salted and -sun dried meat, fat and other materials, always command a market. Recent -years of devastation, however, have practically annihilated all of the -great herds once so profitable, since for three or four years they -furnished food to the roving bands of different contestants in that -unfortunate country.</p> - -<p>In the various mountain chains, foothills and fertile ravines of Cuba -are hundreds of thousands of acres of forest land, in much of which -sufficient sunlight enters to permit of new growth, the tender shoots of -which are preferred by both goats and deer to any other food<a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a> in the -world. More than all, the goat is by nature a hill climber, and is never -content until he gains the nearest ascent from which he can look down on -his companions below.</p> - -<p>For many years to come, most of these vast ranges will be unfenced and -free, and the keeping of the goats will require nothing more than a -herder with a couple of good dogs for every thousand head. With this -excellent food that can serve no other purpose, and the splendid water -of mountain streams, the goat industry in Cuba could not fail to be -profitable, and yet the raising of goats has never been considered there -commercially.</p> - -<p>Under the management of men who are familiar with the raising of goats -for their hides, and by-products, there is no reason why this industry -should not assume importance in Cuba, especially since these animals are -invaluable for cleaning out undergrowth economically and effectively.</p> - -<p>Although it is a well established fact that the Angora goat will thrive -in any country that is not low and damp, with the exception a few pairs -of Angoras, that were introduced at the Experimental Station at Santiago -de las Vegas some years ago, the breeding of this variety of goat has -never attracted the attention which it deserves. Those of the station, -although not located under the ideal conditions which prevail in the -mountains, have nevertheless fulfilled the reputation which this animal -enjoys in other parts of the world.</p> - -<p>The Angora, unlike the sheep, does not lose or drop its beautiful silky -fleece when introduced into a warm climate. It is, however, desirable to -shear the mohair twice a year instead of once, in order to avoid loss -that might come from pushing its way through heavy underbrush in the -mountains. In raising or breeding this variety of goat, where the long -fine fleece is the chief source of income, provision should be made for -rounding up and coralling the herd each night, in order to insure -against<a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a> the possibility of loss from dogs or theft, although the goat -himself is an excellent fighter, and stoutly resents the intrusion of -any enemy.</p> - -<p>Under favorable circumstances the annual increase of kids will amount to -100% of the number of ewes in the flock. The young bucks, of course, -when a year old may be sold at a profit, as is the ordinary goat, but -since the finest yield of hair comes from the younger animals, it would -seem ill advised to dispose of them until at least five or six years -old.</p> - -<p>The average price of a good angora ewe for breeding purposes is about -$15, and the value of the mohair has been increasing steadily for the -past ten years. Its price, of course, depends on the length and fineness -of the fleece, and varies at the present time from 75¢ to $1 per pound. -When it is considered that a good angora will produce five or six pounds -of fleece each year, and that the entire expense is practically that of -herding and clipping, the profit of the business is apparent. On the -basis of a six-pound yield to each goat, and an average price of -83-1/3¢, a revenue of $12,000 would be derived from a herd of 2,400 -goats that would cost $36,000; or in other words the net returns would -exceed 25% on the capital invested.</p> - -<p>Aside from a sufficient amount of land on which to establish night -corrals, and the purchase of a few good collie dogs, there need be no -other initial expense than that of the purchase of breeding animals -themselves. Good herders can be readily secured at a salary of $50 per -month and the feeding range is not only free but practically unlimited.</p> - -<p>When it is considered that the angora, when living on high lands, with -plentiful food and water, is free from disease, and that the capital -stock is multiplying at the rate of 50% per year, with an overhead -expense that may be considered as almost nothing, and an absolutely -assured market at good prices for the mohair, the raising and breeding -of angora goats would seem to be a very profitable investment in Cuba.<a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a></p> - -<p>The deer of Cuba, while resembling in color, general form and -configuration of antlers the deer of Florida, is somewhat smaller in -size, the average height of the buck at the shoulders being only about -three feet. Although hunted considerably during the open season, they -are still very plentiful in Cuba, and if not chased by dogs soon become -quite tame.</p> - -<p>If deer parks or reserves were established in the mountains where these -animals could be confined, cared for and bred, a market for venison -could undoubtedly be found in the United States, while many city parks -and zoological gardens would find them interesting and ornamental as an -exhibit of the Cervidae family from Cuba.<a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII<br /><br /> -POULTRY: BEES: SPONGES</h2> - -<p>N<small>OTWITHSTANDING</small> the fact that several millions a year are expended by -the people of the Republic in bringing poultry and eggs to Cuba, no -steps were taken towards what might be termed systematic poultry raising -until American colonists began experimenting with different breeds -brought from the United States during the first Government of -Intervention. And even since that time there are very few who have -carried on really scientific experiments towards determining what -varieties of chickens may give the best results in this country.</p> - -<p>In regard to breeds it would seem that the Rhode Island Red has the -preference in Cuba, although many others, including the Wyandotte, -Plymouth Rock and Orpington, as well as the Black Minorcan and other -Mediterranean breeds, have their advocates here as in the United States.</p> - -<p>The native hen of the Island sprang probably from some Mediterranean -breed, that through lack of care has sadly degenerated. She is rather -prolific as a layer, however, and asks no assistance in finding her own -food, nor will a quarter of a mile flight give her the slightest -difficulty.</p> - -<p>The one breed that has been given a very high degree of attention in -Cuba is the fighting cock, whose value may run anywhere from $5 to $100 -or more. On these is bestowed more care than is received by any prize -chicken in the north. They are serviceable, of course, only for purposes -of sport, fighting chickens being a favorite pastime of the country -people in all Latin American countries. The native hen of Cuba, when -crossed with well bred Rhode Island Red or Plymouth Rock roosters, -produces<a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a> a very good all around chicken, which will thrive even under -adverse conditions.</p> - -<p>In the fall of 1915, President Menocal imported from the United States -several thousand excellent hens for experimental and breeding purposes. -These are installed in modern poultry houses on his farm, “El Chico,” -only a few miles from the City of Havana, and have done very well.</p> - -<p>Turkeys, too, do remarkably well in Cuba when given free range, and they -are not subject to those ills which result from sleet, snow and chilling -winds that decimate the little ones in most parts of the United States.</p> - -<p>Cuba seems to be the natural home of the Guinea hen since those foods -which this fowl likes best are found in all parts of the Island, and in -many sections Guineas have escaped from domestication, taken to the -forest and formed great flocks of both white and grey varieties. These -furnish splendid wing shooting to those who enjoy the sport.</p> - -<p>In view of the rapidly increasing demand for Guinea pullets in all of -the big hotels in the United States, where they seem to be taking the -place of the prairie chicken of the past, it would seem that the raising -of Guinea hens for the American market should certainly prove extremely -profitable. Fields of the short or white millet planted on any farm will -serve to keep them satisfied, and at the same time diminish the tendency -to wander away from home. In a country where neither shelter or food is -needed, and where the birds command very remunerative prices, Guinea -raising ought to be tempting.</p> - -<p>Very few have gone into poultry raising along scientific or intelligent -lines, which seems rather odd when we consider that fresh eggs vary in -price from four to five cents, under normal conditions, all the year -round, and chickens of the most scrawny type bring from sixty cents to -one dollar.</p> - -<p>The poultry business offers many advantages in Cuba; first of which may -be mentioned, an excellent local market<a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a> for both chickens and eggs; -second, that green food and insects may be found in abundance throughout -the year; that open or wire screen houses alone are necessary for -protection, the necessity for artificial heat being, of course, non -existent.</p> - -<p>In a country free from frost and where flowers bloom more or less -continuously throughout the year, we might expect to find and do find a -Bee paradise. Often, in seeking shelter either from a tropical sun or a -threatening shower, in the shade of one of the Magotes of Pinar del Rio, -or while passing through the deep, rock-walled pass of the Paredones, in -the Sierra de Cubitas, one will find pools of a strange looking -substance in the dust at his feet. Investigation discloses the fact that -it is honey, fallen from overhanging rocks where wild bees have made -their homes in the cavities above, the warmth of the sun having melted -an overfilled comb so that the honey collected at the foot of the cliff -below.</p> - -<p>Native wild bees are very plentiful in Cuba, and strange to say possess -no sting, but produce a honey that is very sweet. During the latter part -of the 16th century a German variety of bee was introduced, from the -Spanish colony of Saint Augustine, Florida. About the middle of the 19th -century the Italian bee was introduced, and is probably more productive -of honey than any other in Cuba. With the coming of American colonists -in 1900, modern hives were introduced and the business of gathering and -exporting both honey and wax was systematized for the first time.</p> - -<p>Many large apiaries exist, especially in the province of Pinar del Rio. -Those who devote their time to the culture of bees naturally seek the -various localities where flowers are plentiful, sometimes moving the -hives from one section to another in order to take advantage of the -presence of honey-bearing flowers in various localities. The bloom of -the royal palm, so plentifully scattered over the Island, especially in -those mountainous districts where the soil is deep and rich, furnishes -an excellent food for<a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a> bees, as do the morning glory, the flowering -majagua and hundreds of other plants whose local Spanish names cannot be -interpreted.</p> - -<p>In the location of bee colonies the character and quantity of the food -is a matter of prime importance. The honey yielding flowers, on which -the bees depend for their sustenance, vary greatly with the locality, -especially with its proximity to the coast or to the mountains. The -sources of wax, too, vary greatly with the location. As an illustration, -foundation comb in Cuba should never be supplied to bees located near -the coast, since experience has proved that they will build up comb much -faster near the coast without the assistance of artificial foundation.</p> - -<p>The quality of honey, too, depends much upon the nature of the flowers -found in any given locality. In the interior nearly all honey is of -excellent quality, while on the coast, quite a large percentage will -lack more or less in flavor, and is almost subject to danger from -fermentation. It has been noted too that colonies in the interior, when -young queens are available, will swarm, even when not crowded for room; -whereas on the coast bees do not swarm so readily, probably because they -have such an abundance of wax with which to build comb.</p> - -<p>During the month of January bees secure an abundance of food throughout -the interior from the Aguinaldo Blanco, or white morning-glory. On the -coast a large amount of honey is derived from the bloom of a small tree, -not botanically classified, during a short period of seldom more than a -week. In February, throughout the interior, bees derive large quantities -of honey from flowers of the Rapitingua and from the Mango, while on the -coast, during this month, food is not abundant.</p> - -<p>In March, throughout the interior, the flowers of many fruit trees, -found wild in the forest, give an abundance of honey, while on the coast -the Roble Blanco, or so called white oak, furnishes food. In April, in -the interior, food is derived from many plants then in bloom, while on -the coast the flowers of the Salsa, Pelotajo,<a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a> Bacuaya and the Guana -Palm furnish an abundance of food. The months of May and June, in the -interior, contribute comparatively few honey yielding flowers, while on -the coast the mangroves, the Guana Palm, and one or two other plants -yield food in great quantities.</p> - -<p>In July and August the scarcity of honey bearing flowers continues in -the interior while on the coast the Guamo yields food. In September and -October, throughout the interior, honey is derived from the Toruga and a -few other flowers. On the coast, during these months, the same flowers -yield honey but in less quantity. In the months of November and -December, throughout the interior, a heavy flow of honey is derived from -a plant known as the Bellflower, while on the coast at this season, food -is scarce.</p> - -<p>Where groves of citrus fruit abound excellent honey is derived from the -flowers of the orange and grape fruit throughout much of the winter.</p> - -<p>As a result of experience in apiculture during the past fifteen years, -$2 per hive is the average annual income derived when located under -favorable circumstances. One bee keeper who cares for a colony of 1200 -hives has found that by adding 25 to 30 pounds of sugar towards the -support of each hive, during the months when food is scarce, this -average of $2 per hive in annual profit is increased to $5 and even -more.</p> - -<p>The exportation of wax for the fiscal year 1916-17 amounted to -approximately 1,300,000 pounds, valued at $340,000. Of this amount about -a million pounds was exported to the United States, while 300,000 pounds -went to Great Britain. In the same year over 12,000,000 pounds of honey -were shipped abroad, valued at $650,000. Nearly 10,000,000 pounds of -this went to the United States, Great Britain taking the larger part of -the remainder.</p> - -<p>Most of the honey exported from Cuba is strained and sells in bulk for -about five cents per pound. To those fond of bees, apiculture in Cuba -will always form for the settler a source of added pleasure and profit, -especially<a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a> in those sections where coffee, cacao and citrus fruit form -the chief source of income.</p> - -<p>Next to the Bahama Islands, surrounded as they are by hundreds of square -miles of shoal water, the shores of Cuba probably produce more good -sponges than any other part of the western hemisphere. In the quiet -waters protected by out-lying barrier reefs that in places stretch for -hundreds of miles along the shores of Cuba, many varieties of sponges -are found. The longest of the sponge zones is found in the shallow -waters protected by the Islands and reefs that stretch along the north -coast of Cuba from Punta Hicaco opposite Cardenas, to the harbor of -Nuevitas, some 300 miles east. Both sponges and green turtles are found -here but never have been extensively hunted except by the Bahama -Islanders, who before the inauguration of the Cuban revenue service used -to sneak across the old Bahama Channel in the darkness of the night and -back of the uninhabited keys reap rich rewards in the sponge fields of -the northern coast.</p> - -<p>Batabano on the south coast, opposite the city of Havana, is the great -center of the sponge fisheries that cover the shallow flats between the -mainland and the Isle of Pines and extend from the Bay of Cochinos in -the east to the extreme western terminus of the Island at Cape San -Antonio.</p> - -<p>The domestic consumption of sponges in Cuba is very large and in the -year 1916-17 only 261,800 pounds were exported which had a value of -$230,000.<a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII<br /><br /> -PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST</h2> - -<p>T<small>O</small> the lover of romance or student of history, few spots in the western -hemisphere, perhaps, have greater charm and interest than Morro Castle, -high perched on the promontory that guards the eastern entrance of -Havana Harbor. Seen at early dawn from the open port of an entering -steamer, its great, rugged, picturesque bulk seems to assemble from the -spectral mists of a legendary past, while all those intensely dramatic -scenes of which El Morro has been the center, pass before one like the -dreamy reality of a moving picture play.</p> - -<p>Resurrected from the tales of centuries, gone and almost forgotten, one -sees the lonely old watch tower that back in the early days of the 16th -century stood guard on the hill top of Morro, so that the pirates and -cruel rovers of the sea during those days of greed, lust and crime, -could not take the little community of Havana unawares. Then come the -later days, when the ever recurring wars of Europe cast their ugly -shadows over even remote points on the western shore of the Atlantic, -and corsairs of foreign nations were ever anxious to pounce on the Pearl -of the Antilles, and seize within the harbor some of the rich Spanish -galleons, laden with Aztec gold and loot.</p> - -<p>Through this panorama of the past comes the picture of England’s fleet -of 200 ships manned by 32,000 men under Albemarle and Pococke, lying in -a semicircle off the entrance of the harbor, with old Morro now well -equipped for battle. Its thick walls, rugged embattlements, fighting -turrets, embrasures, emergency bridges, powder magazines, store rooms, -ammunition dumps, secret passages and dark dungeons, and bristling guns, -were Spain’s<a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a> chief bulwark in the defense of Havana. Solid shot and -shell from a thousand guns crisscrossed between sea and land, and in the -center of the turmoil, defending the fort and the honor of Spain, stood -one courageous young officer, Commander Luis Velasco, surrounded by a -little group of volunteers, who had sworn to hold the fort or die in its -defense.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">PABLO DESVERNINE.</p> -<p>Born in Havana in 1854, and educated at the University of Havana and at -Columbia University, New York, Pablo Desvernine y Galdos has long ranked -among the foremost members of the Cuban bar. During General Brooke’s -Military Governorship at the beginning of the first American -intervention he was Secretary of Finance; he was President of the -Agricultural Expositions of 1911 and 1912; was Minister to the United -States in 1913; and in 1914 was made by President Menocal Secretary of -State. Since 1900 he has been Professor of Civil Law in the University -of Havana. He is the author of several works on Civil and International -Law. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip284_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip284_sml.jpg" width="347" height="511" alt="PABLO DESVERNINE. - -Born in Havana in 1854, and educated at the University of Havana and at -Columbia University, New York, Pablo Desvernine y Galdos has long ranked -among the foremost members of the Cuban bar. During General Brooke’s -Military Governorship at the beginning of the first American -intervention he was Secretary of Finance; he was President of the -Agricultural Expositions of 1911 and 1912; was Minister to the United -States in 1913; and in 1914 was made by President Menocal Secretary of -State. Since 1900 he has been Professor of Civil Law in the University -of Havana. He is the author of several works on Civil and International -Law." /></a> -</p> - -<p>Then, after a month of continuous fighting, came the note from the -British, stating that El Morro was undermined and an offer of 24 hours -in which to surrender, and Velasco’s reply, in which he informed his -enemy that the match might be applied and the walls blown up, but within -the breach he would be found still defending the castle.</p> - -<p>The mine was exploded and the south wall torn asunder, while Velasco, -fighting to the last, received the wound that sent him over the Great -Divide and soon brought to an end Havana’s defense against the British. -Imagination easily recalls the salute of cannon on the following day, -announcing the death of one of Spain’s most courageous fighters, while -every shot of the defending guns was echoed by one of the British ships, -firing as a tribute to the courage of the young officer who had defied -their entire fleet for nearly a month.</p> - -<p>Morro was begun in 1589 by the Italian engineer, J. Bautista Antonelli, -and completed in 1597. Little change has occurred during the last two -centuries, and its rugged old walls will probably continue to resist the -winter storms of the Gulf for centuries to come. Many of Cuba’s patriots -and heroic figures have been confined in the dungeons of Morro, -including the first President of the Republic, that kind hearted, genial -old gentleman of letters, Don Tomas Estrada Palma, who died the victim -of base ingratitude on the part of men for whose freedom and happiness -he had devoted all of the best years of his life.</p> - -<p>El Morro is still occupied, as in the olden days, by the coast artillery -of Cuba, and is well worth a trip across<a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a> the bay, where one may pass a -pleasant afternoon in interesting introspection, and enjoy at the same -time one of the most delightful views of land and sea from any point in -the West Indies.</p> - -<p>Just within the entrance, and on the shore at the foot of Morro, are -located 12 huge, old-time muzzle loading cannon, known as the Twelve -Apostles, that sweep the opposite shore and were supposed to render -impossible the entrance of any hostile ship, or any effort to cut away -the heavy iron cable that in earlier days stretched across the entrance -to the harbor from El Morro to the fortress of La Punta on the other -side. These curious old iron guns, dedicated to the saints, were cast by -Don Juan Francisco de Guenes and installed by him in the form of a -crescent, that boded destruction to all invaders from the sea.</p> - -<p>Some 500 yards further east, along the coast, is installed a similar -group of cannon, 12 in number, that forms a battery known as La Pastora. -These guns were made by Francisco Cagigal de la Vega and were placed on -the lower shelf of the outside coast at a point not easily seen from the -sea where they were supposed to render a forced entrance to the bay -practically impossible.</p> - -<p>A little further within the narrow entrance to the harbor of Havana, and -stretching for a half a mile along the eastern shore, lies the largest -and most impressive ancient fort of the western hemisphere. This -fortress is known as la Cabaña, owing to the fact that several cabins -once stood along this ridge, some 200 feet in height, overlooking the -City of Havana. La Cabaña is massive in its structure, built of stone -and earth on the crest of the ridge, with a steep descent to the water’s -edge. It is surrounded on all sides by a wide deep moat, across which no -enemy, even in modern times, could possibly pass. The destruction of the -fort with high explosives and long range guns would, of course, be -easily accomplished, but as an example of 18th century military -engineering and architecture, it has no rival in the western world. Some -50 acres are covered with the walls, patios, surface and underground<a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a> -dungeons, prisons, buildings, moats and outer defenses of this -fortification.</p> - -<p>The work was begun on November 4, 1763, shortly after the evacuation of -Havana by the British, and was concluded in 1774. The cost of the work -is said to have been $14,000,000, although much of it was probably done -by slaves, for whose services little or nothing was paid, nor could the -value of their labor be easily estimated. The same engineer Antonelli, -of Italian origin, who built El Morro, displayed his military genius in -the plans of La Cabaña.</p> - -<p>The original approach of this fortress was over a cobbled path that -wound up a steep incline, from a little landing opposite the foot of -O’Reilly Street, terminating finally in the southern opening to the -moat. This path was known during the long years of the Ten Years’ War, -and the War of Independence, as “El Camino sin Esperanza” or the Road -without Hope, since those who climbed its winding way as prisoners -seldom descended to the plain below, unless in rude boxes on the way to -their last resting place. Even this privilege was denied to the great -majority of political prisoners who were executed under the laurels that -shade the first part of the moat.</p> - -<p>This wide deep moat, varying in width from sixty to a hundred feet, with -a depth that will average fifty, extends from one end of the fortress to -the other, paralleling the harbor on which it fronts, and separating the -main body of the fortress from well planned and easily defended outer -works. Stone stairways were built at different places against the walls -of these outer ramparts to facilitate the movement of troops in defense -of the citadel, but with wide gaps crossed by wooden bridges that once -knocked away would render the stairways useless to the enemy.</p> - -<p>A few hundred feet beyond the avenue of laurels, and close by an opening -of the wall into the main fortress, a bronze placque, some six feet by -twelve, marks one of<a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a> the places where political prisoners were executed -throughout the latter half of the 19th century. The bronze was cast in -France and represents the execution of a group of insurgent soldiers. In -the left half of the placque is represented a squad of Spanish soldiers -in the act of firing. Above all floats the figure of an angel -endeavoring to shield the martyrs who are giving up their lives for the -cause of Cuban Liberty.</p> - -<p>Passing through this great eastern wall of the citadel the visitor steps -into an interior, grass covered court, several hundred feet in length by -eighty or more in width. Along the southern end of the court may be seen -the remnant of a painted line at about the height of a man’s breast. On -this spot, it is said, over a thousand men were executed during the -period of the Ten Years’ War and the three years’ War of Independence. -Most of the old line has been dug away by knife points of visitors in -search of bullets that were imbedded in the wall during the many -executions that took place at its base. At the further, or northern end -of this tranquil plot of ground, heavily barred iron gates cover a -series of steps which formed an emergency entrance from the moat into -the main body of the fortress.</p> - -<p>A quarter of a mile further north, along the main extension of the moat, -is a wide wooden bridge that connects the outer ramparts with the -citadel, the roadway passing through a massive and impressive gate or -portal, over which a carved inscription gives the dates in which the -work was begun and concluded, together with the name of its founders and -the Spanish officers in command at the time of its construction.</p> - -<p>The grounds within are ample for military drill and instruction and are -well equipped for the care and maintenance of a defending force. When -Spain’s army retired from Cuba in the last days of 1899, both Cabañas -and Morro presented a very different appearance from that of today. Long -lines of cells had been built into the stone walls, in which hundreds, -if not thousands, of<a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a> political prisoners had spent years of -confinement. Each of these dreary, cheerless abodes was about 30 feet in -width by 60 in length, with a low arched ceiling and massive barred -doors, facing the west.</p> - -<p>Each cell was supposed to accommodate fifty men, and some of them -contained long parallel wooden bars, between which prisoners might swing -hammocks if they were fortunate enough to possess them. Many men -prominent in Cuban political and military life have occupied these cells -of Cabañas and also those of its companion, El Morro. General Julio -Sanguily, among others, passed three years in cell No. 57, until, -through the urgent intercession of the American Government, he was -finally set at liberty and permitted to enter the United States, of -which he claimed citizenship.</p> - -<p>Stretching along the western face of the fortress is a wide stone -parapet overlooking the bay and the City of Havana opposite. Planted on -its surface is a long line of interesting brass cannon, ornamented with -Spanish coats of arms and bearing inscriptions that tell of their making -in Seville, at various periods throughout the 18th century. These cannon -are used today for saluting purposes when foreign men of war enter the -harbor on friendly visits.</p> - -<p>Near the center of the citadel stood a small stone chapel that would -accommodate 50 or 100 men. Near one end was built a round pagoda-like -altar before which the condemned could kneel in prayer during their last -night on earth, since those who entered its tragic portals well knew -that at sunrise the following morning they would face the firing squad -that would pass them on to eternity. This historically tragic apartment -has recently been converted into a moving picture hall for the benefit -of Cuban soldiers who are at present stationed in Cabañas.</p> - -<p>Visitors at Cabañas during normal times of peace will find soldier -guides quite willing to carry one down into the subterranean depths of -the fortress and along the narrow dark passageways that were tunneled -into the<a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a> earth, supposedly to detect possible mining operations of the -enemy from the outside. During the War of Independence, however, -extending from 1895 to 1899, these underground tunnels were occupied by -prisoners, most of whom dying in the dismal depths were given burials so -shallow by their companions, who must have dug the graves with their -fingers, that in passing along by lantern light, shortly after American -occupation, one frequently stumbled over skulls and bones that protruded -from the earthen floor below.</p> - -<p>The aspect of Cabañas today, with its well cleaned, whitewashed walls, -with its comfortable officers’ quarters and shady grounds, is quite -cheerful, and one can hardly believe that less than a quarter of a -century ago Cabañas fortress was one of the modern horrors that cried -out to the civilized world for the abolition of Spanish control in -America.</p> - -<p>Occupying the low rocky ledge immediately opposite Morro is the -picturesque little fort known as the Castillo de Punta, or Fortress on -the Point, begun in 1589, and intended to complete the protection to the -entrance of the harbor. The style of architecture is identical with that -of El Morro, but far less pretentious in size and plan. The fort is -protected from the sea by several outlying shelves of coral rock, and -was at one time surrounded by a moat as was La Fuerza, the first stone -fortress constructed in the Western Hemisphere. The walls are not over -20 feet in height and over the main entrance a tablet gives the name of -Governor-General Tejada, during whose period of office it was built, -together with the date of its construction.</p> - -<p>La Punta afforded efficient aid to its companion El Morro, on the -opposite side of the bay, during the siege by the English in 1762, and -in one corner of the reception room may be seen the fragment of an iron -shell, fired from the British fleet during the siege of Havana.</p> - -<p>La Punta is the headquarters of the Navy Department. Its presence at the -angle of the Prado and the Gulf Avenue<a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>, that extends west along the sea -shore, is a quiet but efficient reminder of the olden days when -fortresses of this type formed the only protection enjoyed by the people -who were then residents of the capital of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Until the middle of the 19th century, Havana, like nearly all of the -capitals built by Spanish conquerors in the Western Hemisphere, was a -walled city. These walls were built of coral limestone quarried along -the sea front, which with exposure to the atmosphere becomes quite hard. -The same engineering ability demonstrated by the builders of El Morro, -Cabanas and La Punta, was evident in the 17th century wall, that had the -fortress of La Punta as its starting point and ran in practically a -straight line south until it reached the shores of the Bay near its -southwestern terminus.</p> - -<p>These walls were about 12 feet through at the base and some 20 feet in -height. Throughout the entire line was a series of salients, bastions, -flanks and curtains that were dominant features in the military -architecture of those times. At the top were parapets on which the -garrison gathered for the defense of the City.</p> - -<p>Work on the walls began with a body of 9,000 peons in 1633 and a -contribution of $20,000 in gold that was exacted by order of the Spanish -Crown from the rich treasuries of Mexico in order to hurry its -completion. Only two gates were constructed at first, one of these at La -Punta and the other at the head of Muralla Street, which latter formed -the main or principal entrance for commercial purposes. A third was -afterwards opened near the corner of the old Arsenal for the convenience -of people engaged in ship building at that point.</p> - -<p>Extending along the water front were gradually built continuations of -this wall with coral ledges forming a solid base. These eventually -closed the city on all sides. This stupendous work was not completed -until 1740, and even after this date occasional additions were made for -purposes of better defense. Although the Spanish treasury at that time -was being filled with gold from<a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a> Mexico and Peru, it would seem that the -Crown was very loath to part with the money, and compelled the colonies -of the Western Hemisphere to build their own defenses and to make -whatever improvements they considered necessary, either from -contributions levied on commerce, or with the use of slaves whose -services their owners were compelled to furnish at their own expense.</p> - -<p>Up to the departure of Spain’s army from Havana in 1899, sections of the -old wall, several blocks in length, extending through the heart of the -city, still remained intact. These, with their salients, bastions, -flanks, etc., formed an interesting landmark of the olden days, when -Spanish knights clad in hauberks and hose, donned their breastplates and -plumed helmets to fight against the British who besieged the city in -1763. Today only one short section remains, a picturesque remnant of the -past, with its little round, dome-covered watch tower still intact. This -is located just north of the Presidential palace on the crest of the -green lawn that slopes away towards La Punta, about a third of a mile -distant.</p> - -<p>Near the landing place at the foot of O’Reilly Street, used by visiting -officials and officers of the Navy, stands La Fuerza. On this site was -built the first permanent or stone defense of the city in 1538. The -original walls and fortifications have seen many changes since that date -but one cannot look at them without recalling the pathetic figure of -Dona Isabel de Bobadilla, who in 1539, on the drawbridge of La Fuerza, -where she and her husband, Hernando de Soto, had lived, said “Adios,” as -with an army of 900 men and 350 horses, he set out for the conquest of -Florida “and all the territory that might lie beyond.”</p> - -<p>Day after day, for more than two years, it is said, this faithful wife -walked the parapets of La Fuerza straining her eyes to see his flagship -arise above the horizon of the Gulf, and when at last a storm beaten -bark brought back a few survivors of the expedition, whose leader had -hoped to rival if not surpass the deeds of Cortez in Mexico, or<a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a> Pizarro -in Peru, she learned that her lord and lover would return no more, that -even his body would never be recovered from the yellow waters of the -Mississippi. It was then that her soul, too, sank into the sea of -despair and soon joined its companion on the shore beyond.</p> - -<p>The dark dungeons of La Fuerza have held hundreds of Cuban patriots -until death or deportation to Africa brought relief. The old stone steps -descending to the ground floor are worn into veritable pockets by the -tramp of feet during a continual occupancy of almost 400 years. Every -outer wall, parapet, alcove and dungeon, if able to speak, “could a tale -unfold.” Now all is silent save the sound of an occasional bugle, the -music of the artillery band, or the laughter of children playing on the -green lawn that separates it from the Senate Chamber.</p> - -<p>The first church built on the Puerto de Carenas, as the Harbor of Havana -was called by the founders of the city, was of adobe, roofed with yagua -from the guana palm. This was destroyed in 1538 by the pirates. Owing to -the extreme poverty of the inhabitants, and to the fact that in spite of -the wealth controlled by the churches of the mother country its -representatives in the Western Hemisphere, especially in the City of -Havana, were left to shift for themselves, and very few contributions -for church building came across the seas to Cuba—it being assumed -evidently that the people of a community deserved no better church than -their financial means justified—it was not until well into the 17th -century that churches were constructed that would at all compare with -the beautiful ecclesiastical structures of Europe. Most of those of -Havana, that were built during the 17th and 18th centuries, resemble, -both in material and architecture, the rather heavy, ponderous and so -called Gothic style that prevailed throughout the Latin American world.</p> - -<p>Immediately back of the old Presidential Palace, former headquarters of -the Captains General of Spain, stands the former convent and church of -Santo Domingo,<a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a> whose erection was due to the liberality of the Conde de -Casa Bayamo, whose picture until recently hung in the sacristy. This -building occupied the block of ground between O’Reilly and Obispo and -Mercaderes and San Ignacio Streets. It was reconstructed in 1738 and -became the Royal University of Havana. When the University was -transferred to the beautiful site on the heights of Principe, -overlooking Havana from the west, this old relic of bygone ages, with -its ponderous walls and picturesque patio, became the Institute of -Havana, where students still receive that which in English would be -equivalent to a high school education. One portion of the square is -today used as a police station, while the church itself, with its crude -stone figures of saints standing in relief from the outer walls, is -practically abandoned and will probably soon be removed, for the modest -type of sky-scraper or office building that is becoming quite common -throughout the city.</p> - -<p>The cathedral, one of the largest and most imposing of the churches of -Havana, was built by the Jesuits, on the north edge of the old basin or -arm of the Bay that extended from the present shore along the line of -the street now known as Empedrado, as far west as the little San Juan de -Dios Park. This church is built of the tough coral limestone used in -nearly all of the important buildings that stood within the walls of old -Havana. The church, together with the convent and offices in the rear, -is in the form of an irregular quadrangle, covering about a block of -ground, the rear facing the bay itself. The architecture is of the -so-called Gothic that prevails in all of the old-time churches and -convents of the Island. Owing to the fact that, up to 1899, it contained -the bones of Christopher Columbus, this building has always been one of -the prominent places of interest in the city. A tablet in marble, over -the entrance on San Ignacio Street, states that it was consecrated by -his Excellency, Pedro Agustin Morel de Santa Cruz, Bishop of Havana, on<a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a> -September 8, 1755. This church was declared the Cathedral of Havana in -1789.</p> - -<p>The former tomb of Columbus was located in a niche built for the purpose -on the west side of the altar. When the Spanish forces departed from the -Island in 1899, at the request of the Pope the remains of Columbus were -removed from their long resting place in the Cathedral and carried to -Seville, Spain, where they are at present interred. The interior of the -edifice, although not as elaborately decorated as are some of the other -churches, is nevertheless imposing and well worth a few moments pause to -the passing visitor.</p> - -<p>The San Francisco Convent, one of the oldest churches of Havana, was -completed by Order of the Franciscans in 1591. A part of the hard coral -shore that formed the western edge of the bay, a few blocks south of the -Plaza de Armas, formed a solid foundation for the original building -which, owing to faulty material and construction, lapsed into ruins in -1719. In 1738 the structure which now occupies the spot was built under -the direction of Bishop Juan Lazo. The tower of the Church proper is -considered one of the best samples of ecclesiastic architecture in -Havana. This building fronts on Oficios Street and extends from the -Plaza of San Francisco south for more than a block, parallel with the -Bay front. The old San Francisco convent is the most massive structure -of its kind in Havana. Its long lofty arched passages were well built -and give promise of remaining intact through centuries yet to come. The -large patio in the center is today filled with flowers and admits light -to the many offices, once occupied by the palefaced, sad-eyed inmates of -the convent, now resounding with the click of typewriters and the tread -of feet bent on the ordinary affairs of life. In 1856 this building -became the depository, or general archive, of the Spanish administration -of affairs in the Island. The first American Government of Intervention -used it as a Custom House, where Major<a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a> General Bliss had his -headquarters. Shortly after the inauguration of the Republic of Cuba -this property together with that of the square now used by the -Institute, was purchased from the Church and continued to be used as the -custom house. In 1916 the old convent, thoroughly renovated, became the -permanent headquarters for the Department of Posts and Telegraphs, for -which it is well adapted. The custom house was transferred to the San -Francisco Wharf, a handsome structure that also shelters the -administration of Trisconia. From 1608 the San Francisco Church was used -as the starting point of the religious processions which annually passed -the “Via de Cruces” or Way of the Cross, along Amargua Street -terminating at the Church of El Cristo at the corner of Aguacate Street, -which was built in 1640.</p> - -<p>The San Agustin Convent was built by the order of San Agustin on -Amergura Street at the corner of Aguiar Street. A tablet on the church -itself states that it was completed in the year 1659. There is nothing -of special interest connected with this church other than its antiquity -and its general air of isolated depression.</p> - -<p>La Merced, located at the corner of Cuba and Merced Streets, was the -culmination of an effort to establish a Merced Convent for that part of -the City of Havana. It was begun in 1746 but not completed until 1792. -La Merced is today considered the most fashionable church in the Island -of Cuba, and during times of religious festivals the decorations of -flowers and illumination of candles are very imposing. This church, and -the National Theatre, during the opera season, furnish perhaps the two -most interesting places in which to study Havana’s élite society.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">IN NEW HAVANA</p> -<p>While many streets in Havana appear to belong to some Spanish city of -centuries ago, many others vie with those of New York and Washington in -their up-to-date Twentieth Century aspect. There are in both public and -private edifices many examples of the finest modern architecture and -construction, some rising many stories above the two-and three-storied -buildings characteristic of former years. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip296_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip296_sml.jpg" width="341" height="521" alt="IN NEW HAVANA - -While many streets in Havana appear to belong to some Spanish city of -centuries ago, many others vie with those of New York and Washington in -their up-to-date Twentieth Century aspect. There are in both public and -private edifices many examples of the finest modern architecture and -construction, some rising many stories above the two-and three-storied -buildings characteristic of former years." /></a> -</p> - -<p>In 1689 the convent of Santa Catalina was built on the square facing -O’Reilly Street, between Compostela and Aguacate Streets, the dedication -of the church taking place in 1700. This convent has been famous for two -centuries for its wealth, devotees vying with each other in<a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a> the -amount of money or property which they could contribute to the coffers -of the church. It is said that $15,000 was the smallest contribution -that could be accepted from any woman who chose to devote her life and -fortune to the promotion of the Catholic faith and the prosperity of the -Church. No limit was fixed to the amount of the individual contributions -from novitiate nuns, and many of the wealthiest women of Havana society -have disappeared from the social world, within its walls. The property -was sold in 1917 for a million dollars and the inmates were removed to -the new quarters located on the plateau in Vedado.</p> - -<p>The picturesque church that stands on the crest of the hill in the -district of Jesus del Monte was built in 1689. The view from the front -of this church, looking over the city and bay beyond, is very pleasing.</p> - -<p>An attractive church from the viewpoint of its minarets and -architecture, known as Santo Angel, is located on a small hill of that -name near the junction of Cuarteles with Monserrate Street, overlooking -the long stretch of green sward that extends from the new Presidential -Palace to the Park of Luz Caballero. This church, in spite of its name, -seems to have been selected by fate to suffer a number of serious -reverses. In 1828 a stroke of lightning toppled over the tall spire on -its eastern front, and again in 1846 a hurricane that did but little -damage to the city tore down the cupola and brought with it the entire -end of the building. In spite of this however the church has recently -entered into a period of prosperity and is today the center of -fashionable congregations who usually assemble there for twelve o’clock -late mass.</p> - -<p>Santa Teresa was founded in 1701 and is located at Compestela and -Teniente Rey Streets.</p> - -<p>The convent of Santa Clara was built in 1664 and began with a fund of -$550. It extends from Cuba to Havana Streets and from Sol to Luz -Streets, covering two solid blocks of ground, and is the largest convent -in<a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a> the Island of Cuba. Owing to the recent increase in the price of -city property, the space covered by this convent is valued at -$1,500,000.</p> - -<p>In 1704 the convent of Belen was founded at the corner of Compostela and -Luz Streets, covering an entire block of ground that had served -previously as a recreation park for the Bishop of Compostela. Within -this convent the Jesuit Order established what was known as the “Royal -College of Havana,” whence were graduated some of the city’s famous -lawyers and scholars. This order maintains an Observatory and weather -bureau, whence reports in regard to storms in the Caribbean are -contributed to the daily papers. Belen, among the devout Catholics of -Cuba, is undoubtedly one of the most popular institutions of the West -Indies.</p> - -<p>Shortly after the inauguration of Woodrow Wilson as President of the -United States, Mr. William E. Gonzalez was appointed Minister -Plenipotentiary from that country to the Republic of Cuba, and took up -his residence in the old colonial mansion built by the Echarte family, -located on the corner of Santa Catalina and Dominguez Streets. This -beautiful quinta occupies a block of ground in the old aristocratic -residence district of Cerro, some three miles distant from Central Park. -The building, although only one story in height, is quite imposing, -built of stone with white marble floors throughout, inclosing a -beautiful patio that forms one of the unique and charming attractions of -old-time residences in Havana. A wide marble flagged gallery runs all -around this patio from which a soft subdued light enters the many rooms -facing upon it. A broad porch, whose heavy flat roof is supported by -long rows of stone columns, faces the south, and above it flies the -Stars and Stripes from sunrise to sunset. The garden or grounds -occupying the eastern half of the block are filled with beautiful shade -trees and sweet scented flowers that have been brought from many parts -of the world, while in front a row of<a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a> stately royal palms reach up some -80 feet or more toward the blue sky.</p> - -<p>La Chorrera, the Fort of Almandares, is a picturesque little old fort, -some fifty feet square and two stories in height, built of coral rock in -the year 1646, which rests upon a little islet not much bigger than the -fort itself, at the eastern entrance of the Rio Almandares. Slave labor -undoubtedly entered into the construction of this fort, although it is -said to have cost 20,000 ducats. A flight of stone steps has been built -up to the second floor that communicates with the entrance to the fort. -Over this is a tablet giving the date of construction and the name of -its builders.</p> - -<p>During the siege of Havana by the British in 1762, Lord Albemarle -determined to land troops west of the City in order to take advantage of -Principe Heights, overlooking the capital from the west. On June 10 a -portion of the British fleet began bombarding La Chorrera. Its -commanders, Captain Luis de Aguiar and Rafael de Cardenas, made a very -stubborn resistance, yielding only when their ammunition had been -completely exhausted. This fort is easily reached by the Vedado car -line, from which a short walk of two blocks brings one to the mouth of -the Almandares, on which the fort is located.</p> - -<p>On the western point, guarding the entrance of the little ensenada or -inlet of Cojimo, four miles east of El Morro is Fort Cojimar, almost the -duplicate of La Chorrera, which was constructed at the same time. These -quaint monuments of the past add considerable historic and picturesque -beauty to the northern coast of Cuba. All of them may be reached by -beautiful automobile drives and are well worth a few moments in passing.</p> - -<p>The Torreon de la Playa, a small round watch tower, was erected on the -eastern shores of La Playa, some three miles west of the Almandares -River, where watchmen were kept both day and night to advise the -authorities and inhabitants of the struggling young colony of the -approach<a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a> of pirates from the west, or any suspicious sails that might -hove in sight. This structure was built by order of the Town Council, -the “Cabilda,” on order issued on March 8, 1553, naming each individual -who was to contribute either in money or men towards the work. The money -contributed was exacted only from some half dozen of the inhabitants and -amounted to a “real” or ten cents a day. The well-to-do inhabitants were -called on each to furnish one negro with his tools, or lacking tools, a -“batey” or boat in which to convey material.</p> - -<p>A similar tower known as the Torreon de San Lazaro was built in 1556 -upon the western edge of the little inlet, which until the inauguration -of the Republic in 1902 occupied the space where the beautiful -equestrian statue of General Antonio Maceo now stands.</p> - -<p>The picturesque fort known as Atares, located on the hill that commands -the extreme southwestern end of the bay, was begun in 1763, immediately -after the departure of the British, and completed in 1767. It is -occupied at the present time by a small detachment of Cuban artillery, -and is sacred in the eyes of all Americans owing to the fact that -General Crittenden of Kentucky, and his 50 companions who had joined the -unfortunate band of Cuban liberators under the command of Narciso Lopez, -were executed on the western slope of the hill in August, 1851. Atares -is easily reached by the Jesus del Monte cars, and the view from the top -of the hill is worth the climb.</p> - -<p>The Castillo del Principe, the last fortification of the 18th century, -was placed on the western edge of the Principe plateau, on the same spot -where Lord Albemarle with his British troops looked down on the City of -Havana during the siege of 1762. Fort Principe was begun in 1774 and -completed in 1794. The general style of architecture is similar to that -of all the military structures of this period, although Principe is -larger and more commodious<a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a> than Atares. A deep moat surrounds the -fortification and an old style drawbridge connects the outer edge with -the entrance to the citadel itself. Since the beginning of the Cuban -Republic the fort has been used as a state penitentiary, and is a model -of ideas and methods in the treatment of its convicts. The inmates are -not only taught to read and write, but learn useful trades as well. -Those of musical bent have formed a brass band, in which they have been -encouraged under the intelligent direction of General Demetrio Castillo, -who has had charge of the prisoners in Cuba almost since the beginning -of the Republic.</p> - -<p>The view from the top of the hill is one of the most attractive in the -Province of Havana, and may be reached either by the Principe car line, -which terminates at its base, or by an automobile drive which leads -through a winding way up the hillside to the very entrance of the -fortress.</p> - -<p>The Botanical Gardens, Quinto de Molinos, are a beautiful property -fronting on Carlos Tercero Street and extending along the north side of -the drive from Infanta Street to the foot of Principe Hill. They belong -to the Government. On the corner of Infanta Street is located the new -City Hospital, the largest and most complete institute of its kind in -the West Indies. Just beyond are the ground of the Botanical Gardens and -the Quinto de Molinos, forming a long, beautiful well laid out, shaded -park. Its graveled walks lined with many varieties of stately palms and -tropical plants some indigenous and some brought from other parts of the -world, render the ground a charming and interesting retreat, not far -from the center of the City. The estate covers some 40 acres, and within -its limits are held Agricultural and Live Stock fairs, that under normal -conditions take place annually. These grounds, during Spanish colonial -times, were used as a summer residence by the Captains-General of Cuba, -and for that reason have a certain degree of historical<a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a> interest, since -here Generals Martinez Campos, Weyler and Blanco, with many of their -predecessors, passed much of their time during the summer season.</p> - -<p>Several picturesque kiosks and artistic structures with seats have been -built for the benefit of the public, and usually during the winter -season open air concerts are given within the grounds once or twice a -week by the Municipal Band. The Quinto is easily reached either by -street car or automobile and there is probably no place within the city -limits where one can pass a more restful and profitable hour, than -within the shade of the Botanical Gardens of Havana.<a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX<br /><br /> -HAVANA</h2> - -<p>H<small>AVANA</small> is one of the most charming capitals in the New World. Its very -name, Indian in its origin, conjures up a vivid panorama of four -centuries, crowded with tragedy, pathos, adventure, bold deeds, cruel -crimes and noble sacrifices; on whose rapidly moving film the hand of -fate has pictured every phase of human emotion from the wild dreams of -world conquerors, to the hopeless despair of hunted Cubenos, who -preferred death to slavery. It was on the 25th day of July, 1515, that -Diego Velasquez, while cruising along the south coast of the Island, -stopped on the sandy beach near a native fishing village called -Metabano. The Indians belonged to a tribe known as the Habanas; one of -the thirty different divisions of the Cubenos. Grass-covered plains -extending back from the beach seemed to impress Velasquez favorably, so -he founded a city there and called it San Cristobal de la Habana.</p> - -<p>Toward the close of the year 1519, however, the colonists evidently -disapproved of Velasquez’s selection and moved their town across to the -north coast of the Island at the mouth of the Almandares, where -northeasterly winds made the summers more agreeable. This little stream, -emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, had a depth of twelve or fifteen feet -at the mouth, sufficient for the caravels of those days. But some of the -City Fathers, in their wanderings to the eastward, found the beautiful -bay, then known as Carena. A prophetic glimpse into the future may have -furnished the motive for another change; at any rate a year later they -picked up their household fixtures, carrying with them the town records, -and established the City where it now stands, on the<a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a> eastern shores of -one of the finest land locked harbors in the world. In 1556 Havana -became the capital of Cuba, the rendezvous of all Spanish fleets in the -Occident, as well as the key to the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>Havana in the early days of the 16th century consisted of several groups -or clusters of palm thatched huts, not far from the bay, with little -that could suggest a city in embryo. As in all cities built by the -Spaniards in the New World, the first permanent buildings were churches -and monasteries erected for the benefit of the Catholic clergy and -built, as a rule, of adobe or mamposteria, with walls two or three feet -in thickness. The material used was a mixture of rock, earth and sand, -inclosed in facings of plaster. Many of them were decorated with crude -figures and images of saints popular in the community.</p> - -<p>Later, quarries of soft limestone were found in abundance, and from -these, blocks were easily cut which, after exposure to the atmosphere, -formed a hard, durable building material. The coral rock of which both -Morro and Cabañas were built was taken from old quarries scattered along -the north shore from Morro eastward. From these quarries came also the -stone that built the spacious San Francisco Convent, occupied today by -the Central post office.</p> - -<p>As in all Spanish towns, in the New World at least, a plaza or open -square formed the center from which the principal streets radiated. On -the eastern side of the plaza of Havana, in front of La Fuerza, was -erected in after years El Templete, in honor of the first mass held by -the inhabitants of Havana, which took place under a giant ceiba growing -close to the shore of the harbor, in 1519.</p> - -<p>Nearly all of the permanent structures in Havana, up to the middle of -the 17th century, were located on or near the water front, some distance -in from La Punta. Many of these, including La Fuerza, the San Francisco -convent, the old cathedral and La Maestranza, were built of coral -limestone cemented with a mixture the formula for which<a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a> is said to have -been lost, but which in these buildings has endured the wear of -centuries. Excellent clay for making tile and brick was later found not -far south of the City, so that the more pretentious buildings were -covered with roofs of the criolla tiles that are still common throughout -all Latin America.</p> - -<p>Before the middle of the 15th century, the clearing in which Havana was -located was extended out as far as the street now known as Monserrate, -running from the Gulf front across to the southwestern extension of the -bay. In 1663 a splendid wall was begun along this line and completed -with the help of slaves in 1740. It ran almost north and south, -inclosing the city on the west, and protected it from all attacks coming -from the land side. This wall was twenty feet in height and twelve feet -thick at the base, surmounted at frequent intervals by quaint -round-topped turrets. It had its angles, bastions and points of vantage -for defensive purposes, the work, according to experts, representing a -very high degree of engineering ability on the part of those who planned -it.</p> - -<p>With the exception of one angle and its turret, which stands in front of -the new Presidential Palace, the old walls were removed in 1902, thus -depriving Havana of perhaps the most picturesque feature of the ancient -city.</p> - -<p>Just in front of this wall on the west, a wide clearing was made to -prevent surprise attacks from the forests beyond. With the felling of -the trees, grass soon grew along its entire length, hence the name -Prado, which means meadow, became permanently attached to it, and so the -green lawn in front of the old walls of the 17th century was transformed -two hundred years later into Havana’s most aristocratic avenue.</p> - -<p>The principal thoroughfare, leading from the southern side of the Plaza -de Armas to the Prado, was called Obispo or Bishop Street, which name it -still retains. It is said that the first Bishop of Havana was in the -habit of taking his daily walk out along this road to the main gate of -the City; hence the name.<a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a></p> - -<p>Beginning at the water front and running from La Fuerza west, parallel -to Obispo, is O’Reilly Street, named in honor of one of Cuba’s most -energetic Governors-General, who controlled the affairs of Havana in -1763, and who was, as the name suggests, of Irish antecedents. Just -north of O’Reilly and parallel to it we have Empedrado Street which won -its distinction by being paved from the old Cathedral to San Juan de -Dios Park in the time of Governor General Las Casas. South of Obispo -came Obrapia Street, or the Lane of Pious Works. Beyond and parallel to -it came Lamparilla Street, which earned this cognomen owing to the fact -that some progressive citizen in the early days hung a lantern in front -of his residence for the benefit of the public at large.</p> - -<p>Next comes Amargua Street, or the Bitter Way. It is along Amargura that -certain pious and penitent monks were said to practice flagellation. -With shoulders bent, and on their knees, they invited the blows of whips -while wending their way out towards the edge of the city. Incidentally -they collected alms en route. On the southeast corner of Amargura and -Mercaderes Streets a peculiar cross in stucco, painted green, is built -into the wall of the house where, centuries ago, lived a high dignitary -of the church, before which all passing religious processions paused for -special prayers.</p> - -<p>There is hardly a square within the old walled city that has not some -story or legend whose origin goes back to the days of Velasquez, De -Soto, Cortez of Mexico, and other celebrated conquerors of the New -World.</p> - -<p>The Havana of today is a strange mingling of modern, reinforced cement -and stone structures, five or six stories high, with little one or -two-story, thick-walled, tile roofed samples of architecture that -prevailed three hundred years or more ago. City property, however, is -increasing so rapidly in value that many old landmarks along the narrow -streets of the wall inclosed section are being torn down and replaced -with large, well equipped office buildings.<a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a></p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">COLON PARK</p> -<p>Colon Park, one of the most beautiful pleasure grounds of the Cuban -capital, is also known as the Campo de Marte, and is at the southern end -of the famous Prado. It is noted for its marvellous avenues of royal -palms. From it the Call de la Reina, once one of the most fashionable -streets of the city but now given up to business, runs westward toward -the Botanical Gardens. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip306_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip306_sml.jpg" width="341" height="522" alt="COLON PARK - -Colon Park, one of the most beautiful pleasure grounds of the Cuban -capital, is also known as the Campo de Marte, and is at the southern end -of the famous Prado. It is noted for its marvellous avenues of royal -palms. From it the Call de la Reina, once one of the most fashionable -streets of the city but now given up to business, runs westward toward -the Botanical Gardens." /></a> -</p> - -<p>With the accumulation of sugar estates, coffee plantations, cattle -ranches and resultant wealth, people of means began to seek summer homes -beyond the walls of the old City. All men in those days went heavily -armed for any danger that might threaten, while numerous slaves -furnished protection from common thieves and highwaymen.</p> - -<p>With the development of the outlying districts, trails and roads soon -began to reach out both to the west and south, followed some years later -by what were known as Caminos Reales or Royal Roads, connecting Havana -with Matanzas, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spiritus, -Remedios, Camaguey and Santiago de Cuba.</p> - -<p>One road, known still as El Cerro, ran southwest along the crest of a -ridge that led towards the western part of the Island and in after years -connected Havana with the big coffee plantations in the mountains and -foothills of Pinar del Rio. Along this road were built the first -suburban residences and country homes of the aristocracy of Havana.</p> - -<p>Many of these places were cut out of dense woods, and on one of them, -until less than ten years ago, the original owner, the Conde de -Fernandina, retained a full square of dense primeval forest, not a tree -of which had been removed since the days of Columbus. This remnant of -virgin wilderness, located on the corner of El Cerro and Consejero -Arango Streets, was for some six years passed by the electric car line -of El Cerro.</p> - -<p>All of this section of the City, of course, was long ago built up with -handsome residences that sheltered most of the old Cuban families, who -had inherited the right to titles, coats of arms, and other -paraphernalia pertaining to the monarchy of Spain. Tulipan Park marks -the center of this aristocratic district, and still retains much of its -old-time atmosphere of colonial prestige.</p> - -<p>Further south ran another winding trail that gradually ascended a range -of hills, forming the divide from which the undulating surface slopes -towards the south coast,<a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a> thirty miles away, where Velasquez located the -original site of Havana. This thoroughfare is known as Jesus del Monte, -or Jesus of the Mountain, and has become quite popular in recent years -on account of reputed healthfulness due to its elevation above the sea.</p> - -<p>When the last remnants of the Spanish army returned to Spain in 1899, -that portion of the City called El Vedado, or The Forbidden, extending -from the Beneficencia, or Orphan Asylum, out to the Almandares River, -three miles distant, was nothing but a goat pasture, with a low sea -front of sharp coral rocks. Its soil was thin and the district -apparently had nothing to recommend it aside from its view of the ocean.</p> - -<p>A little dummy engine pulled a shaky, shabby car out to the Almandares, -making four trips a day. Just why it ran at all was a mystery to the -inhabitants, since there was but little inducement to travel in that -direction. The entire expanse of land from the Santa Clara Battery to -the Almandares, and miles beyond, could have been purchased for a song, -but no one wanted it.</p> - -<p>Two years later some “fool American” erected an attractive bungalow on -the line, about half way to the Almandares, and not long after, sign -boards could be seen with the notice, “Lots for sale,” which invariably -occasioned smiles, since there were no purchasers. But around the -bungalow were laid out pretty grounds, and the suggestion took root. Two -men of means erected beautiful places close by, and the building of -homes in the cactus-covered flats became a fad.</p> - -<p>The price of lots, which began at ten cents a square meter, soon rose to -a dollar, then two dollars, five, ten, twenty-five, and today this -entire section from Havana to the Almandares and beyond, from the dog -teeth coral of the coast, up over the crest of the Principe Hill, is -covered with beautiful modern mansions with splendid grounds, and forms -the residential pride and show ground of the city.</p> - -<p>This marvelous increase in development of suburban<a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a> property, which -seems to continue with leaps and bounds, has long since passed the -Almandares River and reached out to the Playa and to the Country Club, -while even further west land is sold by the square meter and not by the -caballeria. All has taken place since Leonard Wood stepped into the -Palace as Governor-General of Cuba in the year 1900.</p> - -<p>Another well-known highway that played an important part in the early -history of Havana was called La Reina. This wide, beautiful avenue -begins at the Parque Colon and runs due west until at the crest of the -first ridge the name changes to Carlos Tercero, passing between avenues -of laurels until it reaches the Quinto de los Molinos and the Botanical -Gardens. Passing on around the southern edge of the Principe Plateau, -the avenue continues on to Colon Cemetery, a beautiful spot, commanding -a view of the mouth of the Almandares, and that portion of Vedado lying -between it and the Gulf. Since Havana has but one cemetery for a city of -over 360,000 inhabitants, travel to the last resting place is somewhat -constant over this really beautiful road.</p> - -<p>The view from the western terminus of Principe Hill is one of the finest -in Cuba’s capital. It was this crest that the English Colonel Howe, -after landing his force of three thousand men in 1762 at the mouth of -the Almandares River, ascended and from it saw for the first time the -old walled city lying at his feet, in all its primitive glory.</p> - -<p>This commanding position on the western edge of the Principe Plateau, -with the City of Havana, the Botanical Gardens and the beautiful Quinto -de los Molinos lying at its base, was chosen for the site of the -University of Havana, and no more appropriate place for an institution -of this kind could have been selected. In the near future it will -undoubtedly become one of the most important seats of learning in Latin -America.</p> - -<p>Near the head of the western extension of Havana Harbor is the Loma of -Atares, on whose summit rests a<a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a> picturesque 18th century fortress of -the same name. The hill rises abruptly several hundred feet above the -level plain, and commands all approaches to the City both from the south -and the west.</p> - -<p>The prado or meadow, that extended along the western front of Havana’s -embattled ramparts, is today changed into a wide esplanade, along which -runs a double driveway for automobiles and carriages. Through the -center, between double rows of laurels and flamboyans, are shaded walks, -shrubs and rare plants of the tropics. On both sides of this fashionable -street, sumptuous mansions, many of them homes of millionaires and -distinguished men of this western Paris, have been built since the -inauguration of the Republic. Attempts have been made at different times -to change the name of this avenue, but the people of Havana, up to the -present, have insisted on retaining the term first given it, the -“Prado,” that always lay between the City gates and the western forests.</p> - -<p>On the east lies the former walled city with its narrow streets and -antique buildings and picturesque landmarks of bygone centuries. On the -west we have the more modern City, that extends for miles both south and -west, where beautiful residences have been erected, some of them -palatial in size and appointments. Several of the more prominent hotels, -too, are located on the Prado where it forms the western boundary of -“Parque Central,” that delightful retreat in the City’s center. In front -of the Park was the large gate that gave entrance and exit to the -traffic of the old time thoroughfares of Obispo and O’Reilly. Many -beautiful club buildings, whose cost ran into millions, are located -along the Prado.</p> - -<p>At the southwestern corner of the Park is the new National Theatre, a -magnificent piece of architecture covering an entire block of ground, -and costing some $3,000,000. This theatre is the largest and best -equipped place of amusement in Havana, and at its entertainments may be -found the elite of the Island republic. The season<a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a> of grand opera -continues for approximately six weeks every winter, during which the -best artists of Italy, France, Spain and the Metropolitan Opera of New -York furnish entertainment to a music-loving audience, whose taste is as -refined and critical as any in the world.</p> - -<p>The “Parque Central” covers an area equivalent to two city squares, in -which many beautiful shade trees, including the evergreen laurel, the -flamboyan, date and royal palms, and other plants and flowers peculiar -to the tropics, add shade and beauty to the spot. In its center rises an -imposing statue in marble of José Marti.</p> - -<p>From this central point the Prado continues south until it terminates in -the “Parque de los Indies.” Adjoining on the west is the “Parque de -Colon,” with an area equivalent to four large city blocks. Stately royal -palms, india rubber trees, flowering majaguas, cocoanuts and rare -tropical plants, render this park one of the most interesting in the -City.</p> - -<p>Leading away from the head of the Parque de Colon we find a wide avenue -known as La Reina, that extends westward and upward to the summit of -Belascoain, where its width is more than doubled in the Avenue known as -Carlos Tercero. This continues west between two long rows of shade -trees, outside of which are two more drives running parallel to the main -or central avenue.</p> - -<p>This continues out beyond the Botanical Gardens, the Quinto de los -Molinos, whence the main street curves around the crest of the Plateau -of El Principe, and continues on two miles to Colon Cemetery near the -further end of the Plateau, on the east bank of the Almandares.</p> - -<p>Colon cemetery is one of the finest in Latin America. The monument -dedicated to the seventeen firemen who perished beneath the falling wall -of a burning house, consists of a single shaft some fifty feet in -height, surmounted by the figure of an angel, supporting in her arms an -exhausted fireman. Cameos in marble of the faces of the men who died in -the performance of duty,<a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a> are cut around the base of the monument. -Another beautiful example of the sculptor’s art stands above the tomb of -the “Inocentes,” where lie buried the bodies of the eight youths who -were executed by the Spanish Volunteers, at the foot of the Prado on -November 27, 1871. In this cemetery are buried also many of Cuba’s -famous men and women whose graves are carefully kept, and on Decoration -Day are visited by thousands of people, friends, relatives and admirers, -who leave their tributes of flowers, kind thoughts and tears.</p> - -<p>Music in all its varied forms, from grand opera to the rhythmic beat of -the kettle drum, (which plays such an important part in the orchestras -of native negroes) probably furnishes the chief source of pleasure and -entertainment in the Republic of Cuba. The Havanese have always been a -music loving people, and really excellent musicians are common in the -Capital.</p> - -<p>The Municipal Band of Havana, with some eighty artists, under the -direction of Guillermo Tomas, furnishes music, either in Central Park or -the Malecon, several evenings each week. It is in attendance also at -nearly all official functions, and funerals of prominent men, soldiers, -and officers of the Government.</p> - -<p>This same band has won at different times the admiration and approval of -many audiences in the United States, including that of critical Boston, -where concerts were given in Symphony Hall in 1915. It was also heard at -New York City’s Tercentenary Celebration during the fall of the same -year. Director Tomas is very proud of the medal awarded to his band by -the judges of the Buffalo Exposition in 1901.</p> - -<p>Many other excellent bands belonging to the Navy, and to different -branches of the Army, are noted for their music, and share with the -Municipal in entertaining the public during different evenings of the -week at the Malecon, and at various parks scattered throughout the City.</p> - -<p>The Conservatory of Music located on Galiano Street<a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a> near Concordia -Street has turned out many brilliant artists during its career of half a -century or more. Recitals of music are usually held in the National -Theatre or in the Salons of the Academy of Arts and Sciences on Cuba -Street. In these halls nearly all the celebrated artists of the world -have given concerts, and hardly a week passes without entertainments by -the best local talent.</p> - -<p>Next to music, driving, either in automobiles or open carriages, over -the beautiful “Careteras” radiating from the City, furnishes probably -the most popular form of diversion in Cuba. Nearly every evening -throughout the year, the view of the Malecon where the Prado and the -beautiful Gulf Shore Drive meet is a scene of animation not soon to be -forgotten.</p> - -<p>The circular Glorieta, with its dome-shaped roof, supported on heavy -stone columns, shelters some one of the famous National bands while -hundreds of people in machines, in carriages, on stone benches and iron -seats, enjoy the music and between selections chat about the various -topics of the day. From eight until ten, under the shadow of the grim -old fortress “la Punta,” and in the blaze of electric lights which line -the Prado and the Malecon, this diversion holds the public, including -all grades of society, from the highest officials to the humblest clerk, -or girl worker in the tobacco factories, who enjoy the benefits of a -true democracy, social and political and financial.</p> - -<p>Some two miles west of the mouth of the Almandares, a little inlet known -as La Playa, fairly well protected from the outer sea, furnishes the -nearest bathing beach for the citizens of Havana and visitors from -abroad. Since the temperature of the Gulf Stream which sweeps along this -part of the northern coast is practically uniform throughout the year, -bathing may be indulged in with pleasure both summer and winter. In the -latter season, however, owing to cool winds that sometimes blow across -the Gulf from the north, only visitors from<a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a> the United States and -tourists take advantage of this sport. The residents of Havana confine -their bathing season largely to the strictly summer months from May -until November.</p> - -<p>The Havana Yacht Club stands just back from the beach, and from its -front extends some two hundred feet out into the water a splendid -concrete pier, shaded by canvas awnings, and patronized by members of -the club and its guests. This club was established during the first -Government of Intervention and counts among its members many of the best -families of Havana. The interest in yachting has grown rapidly and every -year brings with it interesting sloop yacht and motor boat races, held -either at the Playa or at Varadero, near Cardenas.</p> - -<p>During the bathing season the Marine Band furnishes music from five -until seven in the afternoons. This is enjoyed not only by the members -of the Yacht Club, but also by crowds who throng the beach for a mile or -more on either side.</p> - -<p>The finest beach of Cuba, however, is known as the Varadero, located on -the sea side of Punta Icaca, a narrow strip of land that projects into -the Bay of Cardenas. Here many of the regattas are held during the -summer months, when visitors from the capital go to Cardenas to enjoy -the twenty mile stretch of outside surf bathing. Bathing places cut out -of the coral rocks along the beach of Vedado are also used, especially -by the citizens of that locality.</p> - -<p>Fishing is a sport that furnishes most enjoyable entertainment for those -who are fond of it. Handsome specimens of the finny tribe are frequently -brought in by men and boys, who drift in small boats along the coast, a -mile or so out, and fish both for the table and for profit. Tourists -often find amusement in going out in motor launches at night and fishing -for shark off the mouth of the harbor. Since sharks are usually -plentiful, and of sufficient size to give the angler a tussle before<a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a> -being brought up to the boat and dispatched, this form of amusement -appeals as a novelty to many who come from the interior of the United -States.</p> - -<p>The markets of Havana are full of excellent fish that are caught all -along the Gulf Stream, between Cuba and the coast of Florida. These are -brought in sloops provided with the usual fish well, which keeps them -fresh until thrown on the wharf just before daylight. The varieties most -sought for, or prized, are the red snapper, known in Spanish as the -“Pargo,” the sword fish, and the baracuta, which are splendid fish, from -two to three feet in length and very game, when caught with hook and -line.</p> - -<p>Of the smaller fish, the Spanish mackerel, the mullet, the needle fish, -and scores of other varieties are always found in abundance. The -pompano, peculiar to the Gulf of Mexico, owing to its delicious flavor -and its entire lack of small bones is probably the most prized of all, -and commands a very high price when it reaches the table of fashionable -hotels in the United States.</p> - -<p>The game of Jai Alai was introduced here from the Basque Provinces of -Spain, during the first Government of Intervention in 1900, and became -very popular with both Cubans and visitors from the United States. -General Leonard Wood and his aides soon acquired the habit of visiting -the Fronton and spending an hour or so in practice every morning.</p> - -<p>Jai Alai is played in a building erected for the purpose with a court -some two hundred feet in length, inclosed on three sides by smooth stone -walls, perhaps forty feet in height, and having a concrete floor. It is -played with two opponents on each side known as the blues and the -whites. The ball is similar to that of the tennis court, made in Spain -with a high degree of resiliency and costing five dollars. It is thrown -from a long narrow wicker basket, or scoop, slightly curved at the -point, to retain the ball while swung to the head or end wall. The -gloved part of the instrument is firmly<a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a> strapped to the forearm of the -player. The ball is caught in this sling-like scoop, and from its length -of some thirty inches or more is driven with great force from the -further end of the court to the opposite wall. On the rebound it must be -caught by one of the two opponents, on either fly or first bound, -otherwise a point is scored against the side that falls.</p> - -<p>A three-inch band is painted around the end of the court, parallel with -the floor and about four feet above it. The ball must strike the wall -above this band, and the science of the play is to drive it into the -corner at such an angle that your opponents will find it impossible to -catch it as it caroms back.</p> - -<p>Once the game starts, the ball never stops its flight through the air, -from the wicker scoop to the end of the wall and back, until an error is -made which counts against the side that fails to catch it. And since the -player cannot hold the ball in his wicker sling for an instant, the -action is decidedly rapid and the excitement soon becomes intense.</p> - -<p>A player may occasionally be seen to leap into the air, catch and fire -the ball back to the end of the court, he himself falling flat on his -back, leaving his partner to take care of the return. Thirty points -constitute the usual game and about an hour is required in which to play -it. Jai Alai was suspended during the latter part of President Estrada -Palma’s term, on account of the heavy betting that accompanied it, but -owing to insistent popular demand, it was again installed at the Fronton -in the Spring of 1918.</p> - -<p>The game of baseball, brought to Cuba in the year 1900, from the very -start gained a popularity among the natives that has never ceased for a -moment. It is today the national sport of Cuba, and quite a number of -high-priced players from Cuba have occupied prominent places in the big -league clubs of the United States. The local clubs of Havana play a -splendid game, as several crack teams from the United States have -discovered to their<a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a> surprise and cost, many of them having been sent -home badly beaten.</p> - -<p>The king of sports, however, in Havana, is horse racing, first -introduced from the United States in 1907. Such was its popularity that -capitalists some four years ago, were encouraged to erect in the suburb -of Marianao the finest racing pavilion in the West Indies. The mile -track and the beautiful grounds which surround it are all that lovers of -the sport could desire; while the view from the Grand Stand, across a -tropical landscape whose hillsides are covered with royal palms, with -dark green mountains silhouetting the distant horizon, gives us one of -the most picturesque and attractive race tracks in the world.</p> - -<p>Between the Plaza and Camp Columbia are located the golf links of -Havana, which owing to the natural beauty of the grounds, and the charm -of the surrounding country, with its view of the ocean and distant palm -covered hills, render golfing a pleasure for at least three hundred and -thirty days a year. These natural advantages have made the links of the -Country Club of Havana celebrated in all places where golfing news -reaches those who are devoted to the game.</p> - -<p>In the various public buildings in Havana occupied by the Government of -Cuba may be traced many styles of architecture that have followed each -other from the beginning of the 16th century to well into the 20th. The -old Fort of La Fuerza, that dates from 1538, is now occupied by the -Secretary of War and Navy, and from it orders are issued directing the -management of the two arms of the service, which in Cuba are combined -under one directorate. Aside from modern windows, shutters and -up-to-date office furniture, no changes have been made in the general -outline or contour of this antiquated old fortress, whose entrance and -drawbridge face the Templete close by on the spot where the residents of -Cuba held their early Town Councils and listened to the singing of their -first mass, four centuries ago.<a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a></p> - -<p>Next in line of antiquity would come the old San Franciscan Convent, -that in 1916 was converted into a spacious and artistic post-office, -where the Director General of Posts and Telegraphs looks after that -important branch of the Government Service.</p> - -<p>Next in point of age comes the home of the Department of Public Works in -the Maestranza, along the northeastern front of which runs a remnant of -the old sea wall, extending along the west shore of the harbor from the -Cathedral to the head of Cuba Street. This thick walled building, of -only two stories, began as an iron and brass foundry, in which cannon -were made several centuries ago and during later years of Spanish -Colonial occupancy was used as a warehouse for rifles, sabres, pistols -and small arms in general. Here were outfitted officers and men of the -Spanish Volunteers, or loyalists of the Island, during Cuba’s century of -revolutions. With the occupation of American troops in 1900, this -building, covering over a block of ground, was converted into offices of -the Sanitary Department and allied branches, who vouched for the city’s -health and cleanliness during that period. It was here that Major -Gorgas, now Major General, held sway and directed the campaign that -exterminated the stegomyia mosquito, and thus put an end to the dreaded -scourge of yellow fever in Cuba. It is at present occupied by the -various branches of Public Works under the direction of Col. José R. -Villalon, who has earned the reputation of being one of the most -tireless and persistent workers in the Government. The National Library, -whose entrance faces on Chacon Street at present, shares the -accommodations of the Maestranza.</p> - -<p>The Department of Sanitation, with all of its vast ramifications, whose -jurisdiction covers the entire Island, is located in an old colonial -building fronting on Belascoain near the corner of Carlos Tercero -Street, and with its ample patio covers an entire block of ground. This -Department is located more nearly at the center of modern Havana than -any of the other Government offices.<a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a></p> - -<p>One of the oldest public buildings, and the largest used for purposes of -Government, known as La Hacienda, is located on the water front between -Obrapia Street and the Plaza de Armas. During the many years of Spanish -rule, not only the Custom House, but nearly all the more important -branches of Government, were located within its walls. With the -inauguration of the Republic, the National Treasury was installed in the -southwest corner of the building, under the direction of Fernando -Figuerdo, who has retained this position of trust during all changes of -administration. The remainder of the ground floor is occupied by the -National Lottery and offices connected with that Institution, which -extend into the entresuelo, or half-story, just above. The second floor -is occupied by the Hacienda, or Treasury Department, whose offices -surround the central patio on all four sides. The third and fourth -floors are devoted to the central offices of the Department of -Agriculture, including the headquarters of its Secretary, General -Sanchez Agramonte. The upper floor, or azotea, is used by the Laboratory -of the Department of Agriculture. The Hacienda is rather an imposing -building from the Bay, on which it faces, and plays a very important -part in the Government work of the Island.</p> - -<p>To the outside world the best known building is probably the old -Governor-General’s palace, fronting on the Plaza de Armas and occupying -the square of ground between Tacon and Mercaderes Streets and between -Obispo and O’Reilly Streets. The palace is two stories in height and -belongs to what may be termed the modern colonial style of Cuban -architecture, with very high ceilings, enormous doors and tall -iron-barred windows that descend to the floor. The interior of the -Palace is occupied by a very pretty palm court with a statue of -Christopher Columbus posing in the center, facing the wide deep entrance -that opens from the Plaza. This building was erected in 1834, as a -residence and headquarters for the Governors General sent out from -Spain, many of whom have<a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a> occupied the Palace between that date and the -year 1899, when the last Governor General took his departure. It was -here that General Martinez Campos, in the winter of 1896, penned his -cablegram to the Spanish sovereign, stating that Generals Maximo Gomez -and Antonio Maceo, with their insurgent forces, had crossed the Trocha -into Pinar del Rio, for which reason he tendered his resignation, -acknowledging his failure to arrest the tide of Cuba’s War of -Independence. Within this same palace General Weyler planned his scheme -of reconcentration, or herding of the pacificos, non-combatants, old -men, women and children, into barbed wire stockades, where a quarter of -a million of them died of exposure, disease and hunger. It is said that -when informed of their condition and the fearful death rate, he -remarked, “Excellent! Let these renegade mothers die. We will replace -them with women who will bear children loyal to Spain.” It was here also -that his more humane and civilized successor, General Blanco, who in the -last days of 1897 had tried hard to save Spain’s one remaining colony in -America, felt the shock of the explosion that sank the battleship -<i>Maine</i> in Havana Harbor in February, 1898, and exclaimed as he looked -across the bay toward the wreck: “This will mark the saddest day of -Spain’s history.” Within the same room too, Cuba’s first President, the -beloved and revered Tomas Estrada Palma, with tears of humiliation in -his eyes, handed his resignation as President to the American Secretary -of War, William H. Taft, and left for his almost forgotten farm in the -forests back of Manzanillo, where he passed his last days as a martyr to -the greed and cruelty of his own people.</p> - -<p>Diagonally across from the old Presidential Palace, on the northwest -corner of the Plaza de Armas, stands the Senate Chamber, a two-story -building of the same attractive architecture found in the old Palace. It -is in a way a companion to this building, having been designed and -directed as the home and office of the various Lieutenant-Generals<a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a> of -the Island, in which capacity it served until the termination of Spanish -rule in Cuba. During the two years of American Intervention, various -military departments made their headquarters within this structure, but -with the installation of the Republic in 1902 it was formally dedicated -to the use of the Senate, and officers connected with that branch of the -Legislative government. The lofty salon fronting the Plaza de Armas -served as the Senate Chamber. The 24 members of the upper house held -sessions there on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays of each week. As with -the Presidential Palace, the somewhat lavish use of marble in patios, -floors, stairways, balconies, etc., is much in evidence in this -building.</p> - -<p>Just north of the Senate Chamber, and covering the east side of the long -block on Tacon Street, between the Palace and the Bay, are located the -Bureau of Secret Service, the Department of Government, and those of -State of Justice, all installed at the present time in the same -building.</p> - -<p>This building during Colonial days was occupied by the Department of -Engineers, and with the beginning of American intervention was turned -over to Brigadier General William A. Ludlow, to whose energy is due the -credit of rapidly and effectively cleaning up the city of Havana after -its sanitary abandonment of three centuries duration. General Ludlow -shared the building with General Enoch Crowder. The Palace of State and -Justice has been remodeled and renovated from foundation to azotes. All -of its floors and most of its walls are now finished and decorated in a -manner appropriate to the uses to which it is dedicated.</p> - -<p>During the regime of General Leonard Wood, through an official decree of -that most competent commander, three public buildings were added to the -capital of the Republic, each now bearing his name in an appropriate -placque or tablet in the wall. The first of these was a Bacteriological -Laboratory, now known as the General<a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a> Wood Laboratory, located on Carlos -Tercero Street in front of the Botanical Gardens. Bacteriological -experiments, which up to that time had been conspicuous by their -absence, have since been carried on faithfully in Havana under the -direction of the celebrated expert in that science, Dr. Aristides -Agramonte.</p> - -<p>Next in order was a handsome three-story stone building, located on -Belascoain a block from the corner of Carlos Tercero Street, dedicated -to the school of Industrial Arts and Sciences. The instruction given in -this Institution since its foundation in 1901, has been efficient, and -of excellent service to the youth of Havana, many of whom have taken -very kindly to this much needed innovation.</p> - -<p>The third of these institutions fathered by General Wood is the Academy -of Sciences and Fine Arts, located on Cuba Street near Amargura Street. -This institution has been a boon and a blessing to the intellectual life -of Havana, since for the first time suitable quarters were offered to -celebrated lecturers, artists and musicians, who find in Havana -appreciative audiences, and where, since the founding of the Academy, -local talent had a fitting theatre in which to display its merit.</p> - -<p>Since the beginning of the Republic in 1902, under President Estrada -Palma, the old Governor General’s Palace was found rather limited in its -accommodations. Not only was it compelled to shelter the President and -his family, together with the many offices belonging to the Executive -Department, but it also shared its accommodations with the City Council, -and many of the dependencies of that Institution. With the rapid growth -of the City, and the unavoidable increase in the work of all -departments, consequent on the development of commerce and trade with -the outside world, these quarters, each year, have been found -increasingly cramped and unsatisfactory.</p> - -<p>During the regime of President José Miguel Gomez, a new Presidential -palace was planned, and work was begun<a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a> on it on the site formerly -occupied by the Villa Nueva Station, belonging to the United Railways of -Havana. This ample space, facing for several blocks on the Prado and -Colon Park, was exchanged, by an Act of Congress, for the old Arsenal -Grounds on the water front, desired by the railways for a Grand Central -Station, for which they were excellently adapted. The plans of this -structure, as well as the beginning of the work, were found to be most -unsuited to a Presidential Palace, and by order of President Menocal, at -the suggestion of the Secretary of Public Works, work was discontinued -and abandoned for other plans and better construction.</p> - -<p>Previous to the inauguration of President Menocal funds were voted for -the erection of a Provincial Palace or State House, on the property -belonging to the Government located between Monserrate and Zuleuta -Streets, just at the head of the long, beautiful stretch of open land -that sweeps down to the sea from the crest of the low hill, where rests -the last remnant of the city walls. This location, with its view of the -Luz Caballero Park, of the entrance of the Bay of Havana and the Morro -Headland on the opposite side, is one of the finest in the City, and -naturally appealed to the artistic taste of General Menocal as the true -location for a Presidential Palace. The Provincial Building had been -planned on a scale altogether unsuited for the offices of a Provincial -Council, whose members were limited to less than ten, and whose services -were of so little utility that several proposals for their -discontinuance had been considered. More than all, funds for the -completion of the building had been more than exhausted, and large debts -to contractors were pending. To relieve this emergency and liquidate the -indebtedness, it was finally resolved by the National Congress to take -over the property, reimbursing the Provincial Government with the -$540,000 which they had expended, and to dedicate this building to the -purpose of a Presidential Palace that would be more appropriate<a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a> to the -demands of the Executive Department in a rapidly growing Republic.</p> - -<p>A million dollars was appropriated for this purpose, which sum has since -been augmented in order to carry out the interior decoration of the -building along lines that would be in keeping with its proposed use. The -new Presidential Palace is four stories in height built of white stone, -the architecture being a harmonious combination of the Medieval and -Renaissance, terminating with a magnificent dome that rises from the -center of the building. The interior decoration of the new Palace has -had the benefit of skilled experts, and everything is in harmony with -the purpose to which the building was dedicated. The great Salon de -Honor is in the style of Louis XVI, while the State Dining Room is -modeled after the Italian Renaissance. The main entrance, principal -staircase, the hall and the general dining-room are of Spanish -Renaissance. The Salon de Damas is decorated in modern French style. All -of the other rooms that pertain to the personal equipment of the Palace, -and comprise the east wing, follow the same general line of architecture -and decorations, varying only in design and colors. The Palace is beyond -doubt, in location, design and decoration, one of the most beautiful and -interesting structures of its kind in the western hemisphere.</p> - -<p>Work on the new capitol building, which is to replace the architectural -mistake of its original founders, was begun in 1918, with the purpose of -making this building the most imposing and stately modern structures of -its kind in the West Indies. It will be four stories in height and cover -5,940 square meters of ground, with a floor space of 38,195 square -meters. Above this spacious structure will rise a splendid dome in -keeping with the architecture of the main building. One half of the -building will be devoted to the use of the House of Representatives, -while the other will be occupied by the Senate. It will contain offices -and apartments for the Vice President, Committee halls, etc., and will -be furnished<a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a> with all of the conveniences and improvements of modern -times. The Hall of Representatives will accommodate 133 members, and may -be increased up to 218. The Senate Chamber has ample capacity for the 24 -senators, with accommodations in each of these Congressional halls for -visitors and the general public. Elevators will reach all floors and the -interior decorations will be in keeping with the purpose to which the -new Capitol Building is devoted.</p> - -<p>During the Presidency of General Mario Menocal, work was begun on the -National Hospital, which when completed, will be one of the finest -institutions of its kind in the world. The grounds are located on the -northwest corner of Carlos Tecero and Belascoain Streets, occupying the -eastern extension of the Botanical Gardens that adjoin the hospital -grounds on the west. The location, near the center of what may be termed -modern Havana, is excellent, and the work as planned will constitute a -very important adjunct to the maintenance of health in Havana.</p> - -<p>The plans contemplate the erection of 32 modern buildings, constructed -of white limestone and reinforced concrete. Sixteen, or one-half of -these had been finished in the fall of 1918. This hospital when complete -will cost approximately a million and a half of dollars, and will rank -with those of the best of America and Europe. The institution has been -named in memory of General Calixto Garcia.<a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX<br /><br /> -A PARADISE OF PALM DRIVES</h2> - -<p>T<small>O</small> those who are fond of motoring in the tropics, the world offers no -more delightful field than the Island of Cuba from the end of October -until early May, with Havana as a point of departure. Some fourteen -hundred kilometers or 850 miles of clean, cream colored macadamized -drives stretch out to the east, south and west of Havana, each inviting -the tourist or lover of nature to feast his eyes on a fascinating -panorama of mountain, hill and dale; of canon, cliff and undulating -plain.</p> - -<p>Long lines of stately royal palms, of white-trunked Cuban laurel, from -whose branches the glossy green leaves never fall, of cocoas, mangoes, -almonds, tamarinds, and a score of others, border mile after mile of the -national highways, furnishing grateful shade and softened light that -otherwise would try the eyes. Every turn and curve of the driveway -brings change. There is no sameness of landscape, no monotony of level. -Each mile, each moment, presents something new. Expectation is seldom -disappointed.</p> - -<p>Nothing perhaps is more startlingly novel or strikingly beautiful than -when, in early summer, the touring car, rounding a curve, suddenly -brings to view a line of flamboyans in full bloom. Lips open in -surprise, eyes fasten on what seems a forest of fire. The great banks of -brilliant red and golden yellow waving in the breeze need only smoke to -proclaim the roadside all ablaze. The camouflage of Nature is perfect -and strangers of the tropics will bid the chauffeur pause until they can -feast their eyes on this riot of color.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">AN AVENUE OF PALMS</p> -<p>The splendid highways which under the Republic have been created in all -parts of Cuba have not been left as mere roadways, but have been -provided with hundreds of thousands of shade trees, for the comfort of -travellers as well as for the scenic beauty which they enhance. There -are hundreds of miles of driveways shaded and adorned with stately palms -or other trees, like that shown in the illustration. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip326_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip326_sml.jpg" width="351" height="533" alt="AN AVENUE OF PALMS - -The splendid highways which under the Republic have been created in all -parts of Cuba have not been left as mere roadways, but have been -provided with hundreds of thousands of shade trees, for the comfort of -travellers as well as for the scenic beauty which they enhance. There -are hundreds of miles of driveways shaded and adorned with stately palms -or other trees, like that shown in the illustration." /></a> -</p> - -<p>The most interesting excursions through Cuba radiate from the -Capital. One of exceptional charm stretches <a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>east through Matanzas to -Cardenas, a comparatively modern, well built little city of some thirty -thousand souls, resting on the southern shore of Cardenas Bay, just a -hundred miles from Havana.</p> - -<p>One of the old colonial, solidly-built military roads leaving Havana was -constructed along a comparatively straight line for 48 kilometers to the -little city of Guines, located in the southeastern center of the -province of Havana. The road, bridges, and culverts are built solidly of -stone, while giant laurels, almonds and flamboyans on both sides of the -way furnish a continuous stretch of shade beneath which the voyager -travels from one end of the road to the other. This drive is over a -rolling, and in places a decidedly hilly country, which relieves -monotony and at the same time adds greatly to the picturesqueness of the -highway. Many little villages such as San Francisco, Cotorro, Cautro -Caminos, Jamaica, San Jose, Ganuza and Loma de Candela or “Hill of the -Candle,” are passed between Havana and Guines. These, to the stranger -are always a source of novelty and interest. From the top of the Loma de -Candela, a beautiful view of the valley below spreads out towards the -south. This is known as the Valley of Guines, a large part of which has -the good fortune to have been brought under a rather crude but -nevertheless efficient system of irrigation many years ago. The water -for this irrigation comes from a large spring that, like many others in -the Island, bursts from some big cavern below the surface and forms a -river that eventually reaches the sea a little east of the village of -Batabano, on the south coast. Some three miles from Guines the river is -brought under control by a rather crude dam of cement through which it -is distributed by ditches over the lands, referred to usually as the -“Vegetable Garden of the Province of Havana.” Here large quantities of -tomatoes, egg plants, peppers, squash and Irish potatoes are grown -during the late fall and winter months. The produce of this section is -shipped to the United States as long as market prices justify, after<a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a> -which ready sale is found in the local markets of the capital.</p> - -<p>From Guines another drive extends some 13 kilometers towards the -northeast to the town of La Catalina on the way to Matanzas. The -distance from Havana to Matanzas is shortened by a connecting link 16 -kilometers in length which branches off the Guines highway at Ganuza, -and runs due east through La Catalina to the town of Madruga, 63 -kilometers from Havana. This section of the road follows a ridge of low -hills or mountains. From Madruga the drive turns sharply to the -northeast, entering the Province of Matanzas, 25 kilometers east of the -border line.</p> - -<p>The drive from Havana to Matanzas is 100 kilometers or 60 miles in -length, and passes through a section of country every mile of which -brings to view charming bits of tropical scenery, together with an -opportunity to see something of the life of the inhabitants in the -interior of the Island. If one has time to stop, or cares to leave the -main highway at Ceiba and cross the ridge of hills about a mile distant, -a beautiful little valley lies below, on the other side of the divide. -The drive from Havana to Matanzas is usually made in about three hours, -and, aside from the attractions furnished by the city and its suburbs -spread out along the western side of the harbor, will furnish a very -pleasant diversion for an early morning or late afternoon excursion.</p> - -<p>Another of the old Spanish colonial military roads, leaving Havana -through the suburb of Marianao, sweeps away towards the southwest in a -comparatively straight line until it reaches the city of Guanajay, 42 -kilometers distant. Here the road divides, one branch running due south -to the little city of Artemisa, located in the center of the pineapple -district, which furnishes a large part of the fruit shipped to the -United States. From Havana to Artemisa, 58 kilometers, Cuban laurels, -royal palms and flamboyans furnish a continuous and often dense shade -throughout its entire length. In some places,<a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a> for miles, the road -resembles a long green tunnel passing through foliage that arches up -from the sides and meets in the center above. From Las Mangas, 7 -kilometers south of Artemisa, the road swings sharply to the westward -and so continues through a more open country with less shade and less -traffic. There is no speed limit on the country roads of Cuba, and if -the condition of the drive permits, one can skip along at a 40 or 50 -mile clip between villages, with little danger of interference. This -westerly drive swings on through Candelaria, 82 kilometers from Havana, -where one gets the first glimpse of the long picturesque range of the -Organ Mountains some five miles away to the north. These parallel the -road to the western terminus of the Island.</p> - -<p>From the village of Candelaria a short drive not over five miles in -length reaches up to the base of the Ruby hills, which at this point -form a perpendicular cliff several hundred feet in height, over which -falls a stream of water whose volume during the winter is comparatively -small, but the drop is perpendicular and the roar of the torrent during -the rainy season can be easily heard at Candelaria. Just above the falls -are a group of mineral springs, iron, sulphur, etc., that were once very -popular, and during slavery days, which terminated in 1878, many -families passed the warm months at these baths, the ruins of which can -still be seen. About four kilometers of this road to the falls is -macadamized and the remainder can be negotiated readily by an ordinary -carriage. A connecting link some 20 kilometers in length has been -proposed to connect Candelaria with San Diego de Nunez and Bahia Honda -on the north coast, but the cost of the road through the mountains may -prevent its completion for some time.</p> - -<p>San Cristobal, 10 kilometers further west, and 92 kilometers from -Habana, was the terminus of one of the old military roads at the -beginning of the Cuban Republic. Since this time a beautiful automobile -drive has been continued out to Guane, 246 kilometers from Havana, and<a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a> -will soon reach La Fe and Los Arroyos, two points on the extreme western -coast about 30 kilometers further on.</p> - -<p>Nine kilometers west of San Cristobal a connecting link with the main -highway has been built to the town of Taco-Taco, about a mile and a -quarter distant on the railroad, with another branch 7 kilometers in -length running due north to the foot of the mountains. This road will be -built straight across the Organ Range, through Rangel and Aguacate, to -Bahia Honda on the north coast, passing the old time “cafetales” or -coffee plantations of Pinar del Rio, and also through some of the rich -mineral zones of that region. The uncompleted link is only about 20 -kilometers but is over a rather difficult mountainous country.</p> - -<p>At the 117th kilometer post a highway of six kilometers connects with -the town of Palacios on the Western Railway, while at the 123rd, still -another branches south to Paso Real with a northern extension that -reaches San Diego de los Banos, 9 kilometers distant. This road too, -will eventually cross the mountain range and connect with Consolacion -del Norte, whence the road has already been completed to Rio Blanco on -the north coast, 9 kilometers away.</p> - -<p>The drive from the main line to San Diego de los Banos is through an -extremely picturesque country of hill and dale, and the village itself -is well worthy of a visit. Like the Candelaria Springs, the San Diego -Baths have long been famous, and the latter still continue to be so. The -springs of hot and cold water impregnated with sulphur, iron and other -minerals are said to have valuable medicinal qualities.</p> - -<p>From the cross roads at the 123rd kilometer the main trunk-line passes -through a series of low hills, but with grades so reduced that motors -have no difficulty in negotiating them. From the town of Consolacion, -151 kilometers from Havana, one enters the eastern border of the -celebrated Vuelta Abaja tobacco district that lies<a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a> spread out on either -side of the driveway. On either side are low hills with gentle slopes -and little oases or “vegas” of land that are not only rich, but contain -that mysteriously potent quality which from time immemorial has produced -the finest tobacco in the world.</p> - -<p>Pinar del Rio, the capital of the province, is located at the 172nd -kilometer and forms a center from which five different automobile drives -radiate. The western line, which may be considered as an extension of -the main highway, will eventually connect San Antonio, the western -terminus of the Island, with Cape Maisi in the east, 800 miles away. -This road to the northwest soon enters the mountains, through which it -passes many rises, falls and unexpected turns, bringing into view a -picturesque country, rugged but not forbidding. At kilometer 200, a -point known as Cabezas or “the Head,” the drive turns at a right angle -and sweeps down towards the plain below, terminating at Guane, 246 -kilometers from Havana, on the western edge of the celebrated Vuelta -Abajo. A shorter line between Pinar del Rio and Guanes, passing through -San Juan y Martinez, is under process of construction. The latter city -is located in the western center of the Vuelta Abajo district.</p> - -<p>From this city, a modern little place of some 12,000 or 15,000 -inhabitants, another branch of the trunk line, 25 kilometers in length, -passes through a level country until it reaches La Paloma, a landing -place for coasting vessels and light draft steamers of the Caribbean -Sea.</p> - -<p>From the capital of the Province due north a line 52 kilometers in -length has been built straight across to La Esperanza on the north -coast, a little fishing village located on the bay formed by the -outlying islands some six miles from the mainland. The road ascends by -comparatively easy grades to a height of some 1800 feet, where the top -of the ascent is reached. Here the line takes a sharp curve to the east, -bringing suddenly into view, as Rex Beach exclaimed: “The most -picturesquely, dramatically beautiful valley in the world!<a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a>” This -strangely hidden mountain recess or park is known as the Valley of -Vinales, and forms part of a strange basin, that has been carved out of -the heart of the Organ range by erosion, leaving a quiet grass covered, -flat bottomed basin 2,000 feet below the top of the ridge from whose -level surface strange, round topped limestone hills are lifted -perpendicularly to an altitude of 2000 feet. A small stream courses -through the rich grass that carpets the floor, and one lone picturesque -little village, with houses of stone and roofs of tile, nestles in its -center. The inhabitants of the place seem absolutely content with its -quiet charm and seldom see anything of the outside world, except as -represented by the occasional tourist, who sweeps through with his car, -stopping for a moment perhaps for some simple refreshment, and then on, -through the narrow gap between the towering “magotes” that form the -northern wall of the valley. Here the road suddenly swings to the west, -following the foot of the mountain which towers above for a few -kilometers, whence it again turns north, and passes out into the -comparatively barren pine covered hills that continue on through San -Cayetano until the gulf coast is reached at La Esperanza.</p> - -<p>In returning after a rather primitive fish breakfast which can be had at -La Esperanza, it is worth one’s while to pause for a moment in front of -the little country school, on the west side of the road, just before the -Valley is entered from the north, and there to secure a child guide, -whom the courteous professor will indicate, and with the services of -this little pilot you may find the reappearing river, a stream that -slips under the base of the mountain within the valley, and reappears -from a picturesque, cave-like opening on the other side. The stream is -only a few yards in width, with the water clear as crystal and very -pleasant to drink.</p> - -<p>Standing on the rocks in the shade of the cliffs above, one can hear the -roar of the water some place back in the depths of the range, where it -evidently falls to a<a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a> lower level. A visit to this spot gives one an -opportunity to note and observe at close hand the peculiar formations of -the rocks, full of pockets and openings, from every one of which -protrudes some strange growth of tropical vegetation. To explore the -Valley of Vinales and its various turns, narrowing up between steep -walls in some places, opening out into beautiful parks at others, would -require a week at least, but would afford a rare diversion never to be -regretted.</p> - -<p>The little city of Guanajay, at which the long western automobile drive -divides, is located on an elevated plateau, some thousand feet above the -level of the sea. From the little central plaza of the town a beautiful -road leaves in a northerly direction, passing through cane fields and -grazing lands for some five or six kilometers, until it reaches the -crest from which the road descends to the harbor of Mariel. It is worth -while to pause at this point and note the beautiful panorama of hills on -all sides and the tall peaks of the Organ range of Pinar del Rio to the -westward. From this point down, for two kilometers, the descent is -rather steep, winding, and picturesque.</p> - -<p>Thirteen kilometers from Guanajay the little fishing village of Mariel -is found at the head of one of the deep protected harbors of the north -coast. The view from the head of the bay is very interesting, with high -flat promontories on the east, perched on the crest of one of which is -the Naval Academy of the Republic, the Annapolis of Cuba. A little -further on may be seen a large cement plant erected in 1917, beyond -which, on the point, is the quaint old light-house that has done duty -for many years. The western shore line is broken into tongue-like -projections, with deep recesses between, all covered with fields of -waving sugar cane.</p> - -<p>On the extreme western point, at the entrance of the harbor, is located -the Quarantine Station where passengers and crews from foreign vessels -in which some infectious disease has appeared are cared for in cleanly -commodious<a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a> quarters until the sanitary restriction is removed. The -National Quarantine Station has been chosen by President Menocal as a -favorite anchorage for his private yacht during the warm months of -summer. Fishing in this bay, too, attracts many tourists.</p> - -<p>Near kilometer 10, on the Mariel Drive, the road divides, the western -branch sweeping away at right angles through rich cane fields as far as -the eye can see and gradually ascending towards the little village of -Quiebra Hacha, near which are several magnificent sugar estates whose -mills grind day and night through six or eight months every year. At the -18th kilometer, the road turns due west and follows the crest of a range -of low hills which sweep along the southern shore of the harbor of -Cabanas.</p> - -<p>The view of this bay from the drive is one of the finest in Cuba. Every -turn of the road shows some part of the bright blue waters, dotted with -palm crested islets a thousand feet below. The entrance of the harbor, -with a small island just inside the mouth, its quaint old 17th century -fortress recalling the days of the pirates and buccaneers of the Spanish -Main, can be seen in the distance.</p> - -<p>For eight or ten miles the drive follows the general trend of the -shoreline, leaving it finally with a graceful turn and many changes of -level, as hill after hill is either climbed or circled. The driveway -sweeps on westward through a country devoted to cane growing and stock -raising, until another beautiful deep water harbor known as Bahia Honda -is sighted off to the northwest Eventually the drive passes through and -terminates abruptly about a kilometer and a half beyond the little -village of Bahia Honda or Deep Bay, that was built over two kilometers -back from the head of the harbor over a century ago, when the -inhabitants still feared the incursion of enemies from the sea. The town -lies just at the foot of forest covered hills that come gradually down -from the Organ Range some six miles back. The town<a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a> itself, aside from a -certain quaintness, common to all interior cities of Cuba, has but -little interest. A short driveway leads to the head of the bay and the -inshore lighthouse.</p> - -<p>The harbor is some five or six miles in length by three or four in -width, and furnishes splendid anchorage even for deep draft vessels. -This bay was originally chosen as the north shore coaling station for -the United States Government in Cuba, but afterwards was abandoned as -unnecessary. Two range lights render entrance at night easy, while just -west of the mouth on the long line of barrier reefs known as the -Colorados, stands the new Gobernadora lighthouse, erected a few years -ago for the benefit of ships plying between Havana and Mexico.</p> - -<p>The drive from Havana to Bahia Honda, with the little digression towards -Mariel, is sixty miles in length. The rather heavy grades in places, and -the beauty of the scenery throughout its entire length, discourage fast -motoring, but the jaunt can easily be made between “desayuno” at seven -and the Cuban “almuerzo” or breakfast at eleven. No trip of equal length -in the Republic furnishes greater charm to the lover of picturesque -Nature than does this north shore drive to Bahia Honda. When connected -as planned, with Vinales, some 50 kilometers further west, it will rank -with, if not excel, any other drive known in the tropical world.</p> - -<p>From Matanzas several short lines radiate, all of which are interesting, -especially those which wander through the valley of the Yumuri, and -another seven kilometers in length which follows the shore line and -sweeps up over the ridge, affording a beautiful view of the Yumuri, -stretching out to the westward. Another short line, only a few -kilometers in length, has been built to the caves of Bellamar, a -favorite resort for winter tourists.</p> - -<p>Another drive reaching south to La Cidra, 16 miles distant, on the -railroad to Sabanilla, enables one to form some conception of the -country to the southward of the<a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a> capital. Only a few kilometers from -Matanzas one of the main trunk lines has been completed as far east as -Contreras, 60 kilometers. From this line, just beyond Ponce, a branch -runs 8½ kilometers to the charming little city of Cardenas, resting -on the southern edge of the bay.</p> - -<p>Extending from Cardenas due west is another line, terminating at the -little town of Camarioca, 18 kilometers distant. Some five kilometers -along this road a branch sweeps north 10 kilometers to the Playa of -Varadero, the finest beach in the Island of Cuba, where many of the -wealthier families assemble for the summer to enjoy surf bathing on the -outer shore, and where the annual regatta is held during the season.</p> - -<p>From Contreras the northern trunk line has been projected eastward, -through Corralillo, across the border into the Province of Santa Clara. -Short stretches of this line have been completed from the towns of Marti -and Itabo, but up to January 1, 1919, no trunk line extended further -west than Cardenas.</p> - -<p>Cienfuegos, one of the principal seaports of the south coast of Santa -Clara, is the center from which two automobile drives radiate. One runs -26 kilometers to the westward, terminating at Rodas and passing through -a number of rich sugar estates. The other runs northeast, through -Caunao, Las Guaos, Cumaneyagua, and Barajagua, terminating at -Manicaragua, 38 kilometers distant. It penetrates the valley of the -Arimao where a good quality of tobacco, known as the Manicaragua, is -grown. The scenery is delightfully picturesque and interesting. -Manicaragua is on the western edge of one of Santa Clara’s most -important mining districts.</p> - -<p>From Casilda, another seaport on the south coast, a short line has been -built to the quaint, old-time city of Trinidad, perched on the side of a -mountain and founded by the companions of Christopher Columbus in 1514. -This road has been extended further north ten kilometers and will -eventually reach the important railroad<a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a> junction and road center of -Placetas, on the Cuba Company’s line, connecting the western with the -eastern end of the Island.</p> - -<p>From Santa Clara, the capital of the Province, several short lines -radiate in different directions. The longest sweeps through a rich cane -and cattle country, connecting the villages of La Cruz, Camajuani, -Taguaybon and Remedios, and terminating at Caibarien, the principal -seaport on the northeast coast of the Province. None of the trunk lines -proposed, up to January, 1919, had crossed the line into Camaguey.</p> - -<p>Camaguey, owing perhaps to the fact that the province is less thickly -settled than any other in Cuba, has but few auto drives; the only ones -worthy of mention radiating from the capital, Camaguey. One runs west -some 10 kilometers, parallel with the Cuba Company’s railroad lines, -while the other extends east 34 kilometers passing through the charming -agricultural experimental station of Camaguey. This splendid provincial -institution, under the direction of Mr. Roberto Luaces, is located five -miles from the city. Since the greater part of the province is -comparatively level, road building in Camaguey is not expensive and will -probably be rapidly extended in the near future.</p> - -<p>Oriente, owing to its mountainous character, presents more serious -engineering and financial problems than any other of the Island. The -wealth of its natural resources, however, especially in cane lands and -mineral deposits, will undoubtedly furnish an impetus for further -building.</p> - -<p>At present several short lines radiate from Santiago de Cuba, its -capital, located on the beautiful harbor of that name. One of these runs -due north to Dos Caminos, and then west to Palma Soriana, passing -through San Luis. The length of this line is approximately 40 -kilometers. Still another, fifteen kilometers long, reaches Alto Songo, -northeast of Santiago, passing through Boniato, Dos Bocas, and El -Cristo.<a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a></p> - -<p>During General Wood’s administration of Santiago Province surveys were -made at his instigation and roads were completed to nearly all those -points of historical interest where engagements took place between -Americans and Spanish troops in the summer of 1898. One of these lines, -six kilometers in length, carries the visitor to the village of El -Caney, where the brave Spanish General Vara del Rey lost his life in its -defense. The fortifications were shelled and captured by General William -A. Ludlow of the U. S. Engineering Corps.</p> - -<p>Another, reaching out towards the northeast some five kilometers, -terminates at the top of San Juan hill, where Theodore Roosevelt got his -first experience of mauser rifle fire. On the crest of this loma a -little pagoda has been erected, from the second story of which splendid -views of the surrounding country may be enjoyed and of all places where -engagements occurred. Brass tablets form the window sills of this -picturesque outlook, each one carrying an arrow stamped in the brass, -indicating the various points of interest, followed by a brief -description of the places, with dates of battles, etc. On the same road -may be seen the famous ceiba tree under which the armistice was signed -terminating the war between Spain and the United States.</p> - -<p>Another short line ascends to the crest of a hill in the Sierra Maestra -from which may be enjoyed a charming view of the Bay, city and -surrounding country for many miles. The longest automobile drive in -Oriente extends from the harbor of Manzanillo on the west coast almost -due east to the village of Juguani, 58 kilometers away, passing through -Yara, Veguitas and Bayamo. This line is being rapidly extended to Baire, -and thence on to Palma Soriana, thus completing the connection between -Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba.</p> - -<p>A short line from Baracoa on the extreme northeastern coast of the -Island, has been built in a southerly direction to Sabanilla, 12 -kilometers. Local machines can<a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a> be found at all of these points that -will carry the tourist the length of the line, enabling him to form some -conception of a section that otherwise could be penetrated only by -mountain ponies or on mule back.<a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI<br /><br /> -BAYS AND HARBORS</h2> - -<p>N<small>OTHING</small> is more essential to the general prosperity of a mercantile -country than good harbors. They are the economic gateways to the -interior, through which all foreign trade must come and go. Cuba in this -sense is essentially fortunate, especially along her north coast, where -sixteen large, deep, well protected bays and harbors of the first order -empty into the Gulf of Mexico, and into the north Atlantic, furnishing -thus direct avenues of trade to the greatest commercial centers of the -world.</p> - -<p>Four harbors and bays of the first order are distributed along the -southern coast, emptying into the Caribbean, and through that great -tropical sea pass the avenues of trade that connect Cuba with the -republics of Central America, Colombia, Venezuela, the Guianas, Brazil, -Uruguay and the Argentine, while the Panama Canal permits direct water -communication, not only with the republics of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and -Chile, but also with the west coast of Mexico, and the United States, as -well as with Japan and the Orient. With North Africa and the -Mediterranean are direct lines of trade through the old Bahama Channel, -while central and southern Africa are reached by way of the Lesser -Antilles and Barbadoes.</p> - -<p>Most of the foreign trade at the present time is with the American ports -along the eastern coast of the Atlantic and through the Gulf ports by -which Cuba has access to the Mississippi Valley, while along the Gulf -Stream Cuba has a direct avenue, as well as a favorable current, that -carried her commerce to England, France and other countries of western -Europe.</p> - -<p>Beginning with the harbors and bays of the north<a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a> coast we have the -western group located in Pinar del Rio, on the Gulf of Mexico, not -distant from Vera Cruz and Tampico in Mexico, or Galveston in Texas, -while almost facing them we have New Orleans, Pascagoula, Mobile and -Pensacola, with Tampa on the Florida coast.</p> - -<p>On this group the first is that fine deep land locked deep-water harbor -of Bahia Honda (deep bay), sixty miles west of Havana, that was first -selected by the Government of the United States as a coaling station, -but afterwards surrendered for Guantanamo on account of the latter’s -proximity to the Panama Canal and the Pacific, to which it gives -entrance. Bahia Honda has a deep, rather narrow and fairly straight -channel that leads from the Gulf into a beautiful sheet of water, -extending some five or six miles into the interior, where good anchorage -may be found for quite a fleet of vessels. A twelve mile light is -located on the western entrance of the harbor, while two fine range -lights enable shipping to leave or enter at night. The little town of -Bahia Honda, three miles back, is connected with the port by a fine -macadam highway. Owing to the fact that this section of Pinar del Rio, -although rich in minerals, has not been brought under development up to -the present, most of the commerce is confined to the local trade between -Bahia and Havana, sixty miles distant.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles further east and forty-eight miles from Havana, we have the -beautiful harbor of Cabanas, a large, double-purse-shaped, interior bay, -that extends some ten miles from east to west and furnishes one of the -most picturesque land-locked harbors on the north coast. A small island -in the entrance, on which is located one of the old time forts of the -17th century, obscures the bay itself from passing vessels. The shores -of Cabanas are covered with extensive sugar cane fields that furnish -cane to the surrounding mills, while its commerce is at the present time -almost entirely local.</p> - -<p>Located in the same province, some 18 miles further east, and only 30 -from Havana, is the harbor of Mariel,<a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a> a single-purse-shaped bay, that -from its narrow entrance opens out to a broad picturesque sheet of water -extending southward some four or five miles, while several prolongations -extend out towards the southwest, bordered with rich sugar cane -plantations. The little fishing village of Mariel is located at the -extreme head of the bay and connected with Havana by automobile drive, -as are the two harbors previously mentioned. A high table land extends -along much of the eastern shore of this harbor, on the summit of which -stands the Cuban Naval Academy. Near the entrance, on the eastern shore, -is located a new cement factory with a capacity of a thousand barrels a -day. On the western side of the entrance is the quarantine station, to -which all infested vessels are sent, and where delightful accommodations -are found ashore for both passengers and crew, who may be detained by -sanitary officials of the central government.</p> - -<p>The fine deep-water harbor of Havana, which boasts of a foreign trade -excelled in the western hemisphere only by that of New York City, is, of -course, the most important commercial gateway of the Republic of Cuba. -It is one of those deep, narrow-necked, purse-shaped harbors, so -characteristic of the Island, and furnishes splendid anchorage, with -well equipped modern wharves, for handling the enormous bulk of freight -that comes and goes throughout every day of the year. After passing the -promontories of El Morro and Cabanas, that stretch along the eastern -side of the entrance for a mile or more, the remainder of the shores of -the Bay of Havana are comparatively low, although high ridges and hills -form a fairly close background in almost every direction. Within the -last ten years a great deal of dredging and land reclaiming has taken -place in this harbor, increasing greatly not only the depth of water but -also the available building sites. A series of magnificent modern -wharves have been built along the western shore of the harbor, -furnishing splendid shipping facilities for incoming and outgoing -vessels. The upper portions of<a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a> these buildings are occupied by the -Custom House and Quarantine authorities. The southwest extension of this -bay, recently dredged, furnishes access to deep draft steamships up to -the site of the old Spanish Arsenal, that in 1908 was converted into the -freight and passenger yards of the United Railroads. Along the docks, -where steamers of the P. & O. SS line are moored, were built and -launched many of Spain’s ships that centuries ago fought with Great -Britain for the dominion of the seas. On the broad topped promontory -that lies along the eastern shore, southeast of Cabanas, is located -Trisconia, a splendidly equipped detention camp for immigrants and -passengers coming from infested ports in different parts of the world. -Excellent accommodations are there provided during the period of -detention, which may last anywhere from five to fifteen days. This is -the “Ellis Island” of Cuba, and has been a credit to the Republic since -the first year of its installment in 1902, during which time it has been -under the able direction of Dr. Frank Menocal, who takes great personal -pride in having Trisconia, with its floating population, running -sometimes into the thousands, one of the best appointed stations of its -kind in the Western Hemisphere.</p> - -<p>The harbor of Matanzas, sixty miles east of Havana, is a beautiful wide -mouthed bay, or open roadstead, facing on the Gulf Stream as it sweeps -between northern Cuba and southern Florida. This picturesque sheet of -water reaches back into the land some six or eight miles, and although -not noted for its depth, nevertheless furnishes safe anchorage for the -fleet of tramp steamers found there during the larger part of the year, -loading sugar from the many centrals scattered throughout the Province -of Matanzas. Into this harbor, from the west, opens the Yumuri gorge, -through which runs the river whose waters in ages past carved out the -famous valley of the Yumuri, whose beauty was extolled by Alexander Von -Humboldt during his travels in the western world. Covering the western -shores of the bay, that slope down<a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a> from the top of the hills to the -water’s edge, lies the city of Matanzas, while off to the east and south -may be seen great fields of sugar cane and henequen, that form two of -the important industries of the Province.</p> - -<p>Forty miles further east we find the beautiful landlocked bay of -Cardenas, whose northwestern shore is formed by a long sandy strip of -land extending in a curve out into the sea and known as the Punta de -Hicacos. Cardenas Bay is some thirty miles in length from east to west, -by ten or twelve from north to south, and is protected from the outside -sea by a chain of small keys or islands, through which a deep ship -channel was dredged during the first decade of this century. This -furnishes entrance to one of the largest sugar exporting points of Cuba, -the City of Cardenas.</p> - -<p>East of the harbor of Cardenas lies Santa Clara Bay, also protected by -outlying keys, but without deep water anchorage. These island dotted -bays, separated from each other only by islands, and connected by -comparatively shallow channels, extend from Punta Hicacos, some 300 -miles eastward, to the Harbor of Nuevitas.</p> - -<p>Seventy-five miles east of Cardenas we find the bay of Sagua, very -similar to the others, and with a depth not exceeding twelve or fifteen -feet. This harbor is located on the northern shore of the Province of -Santa Clara, and its port, Isabela de Sagua, is the shipping point for a -large amount of the sugar produced along the north coast of the -province. The rivers emptying into the bay of Sagua, as well as the bay -itself, are noted for their splendid fishing ground, tarpon being -especially abundant; also for the small delightfully flavored native -oyster.</p> - -<p>Still further east we have another important shipping port known as -Caibarien, located on Buena Vista Bay, that unfortunately has an average -depth of only 12 or 15 feet, necessitating lighterage out to the -anchorage at Cayo Frances, 18 miles distant, where ships of the deepest -draft find perfect protection while loading.<a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a></p> - -<p>On the north shore of the Province of Camaguey we have but one harbor of -the first order, the Bay of Nuevitas, but this harbor may easily lay -claim to being one of the best in the world. Its entrance is narrow, -resembling a river, some six miles in length and with a rather swift -running current, depending upon the flow of tide, as it passes in or -out. The Bay itself is a beautiful sheet of water of circular form, with -an extension of deep water reaching out towards the west some 15 miles, -and connected with the Bay of Carabelas, Guajaba and Guanaja, forty or -fifty miles further west. Along these quiet landlocked lagoons are -located the American colonies of La Gloria, Columbia, Punta Pelota and -Guanaja.</p> - -<p>There are many reasons for believing that the entrance to this harbor -was the place where Columbus spent several days scraping and cleaning -the bottom of his caravels, while a few of his companions made a journey -into the interior, finding very agreeable natives but no indications of -gold. From Nuevitas is shipped nearly all of the sugar made in the -Province of Camaguey, together with a great deal of fine hardwood, cut -in the Sierra de Cubitas Mountains.</p> - -<p>The north shore railroad, beginning at Caibarien some 300 kilometers -distant, has its eastern terminus on Nuevitas Bay, and will, when -completed, greatly increase the trade of splendid sugar and vegetable -land, as well as the mining zone, rich in iron and chrome, that lies -just south of the Sierras.</p> - -<p>Thirty miles further east we have the harbor of Manati, with a narrow -but comparatively deep and easy entrance, which soon opens out into the -usual long pouch shaped bay, on the shore of which are the sugar mills -of Manati. This harbor, although not ranked among the largest, -nevertheless can accommodate a large fleet of merchant ships or tramp -steamers waiting for their cargoes of sugar and hardwood timber.</p> - -<p>Malageta, some ten miles east of Manati, cannot be properly ranked as a -harbor of the first class, although<a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a> it furnishes protection for vessels -of moderate draft.</p> - -<p>Puerto Padre, 20 miles east of Manati, is another large pouch-shaped -deep water harbor like nearly all those of the north coast, and owing to -the location on its southern shore of two of the largest sugar mills in -the world, Chaparra and Las Delicias, with a combined production of over -a million bags a year, it may be justly ranked as one of the most -important harbors of Oriente.</p> - -<p>Fifty miles further east we have the open roadstead of Gibara, a deep -indentation of the sea that gives, unfortunately, but little protection -from northerly gales, but since Gibara is the exit for the rich Holguin -district of northern Oriente, its commerce is extensive.</p> - -<p>Sixty miles further east, after rounding Lucrecia Point, where the coast -for the first time faces due east, we have another fine deep water -harbor known as Banes, on whose shores is located a large sugar mill -known as “Boston,” with an annual output of 500,000 bags.</p> - -<p>Some ten miles southeast of Banes we enter the Bay of Nipe, the largest -landlocked harbor in Cuba. Nipe is a beautiful sheet of water, whose -southern and western shores are low, although mountains can be seen in -the distance in almost any direction. Nipe contains forty square miles -of deep water anchorage, with a width from east to west of twelve miles -and from north to south of seven to eight miles. The Mayari River, one -of the most important streams of the north coast of Oriente Province, -empties into Nipe. On the north shore of the bay the little town of -Antilla forms the northeastern terminus of the Cuba Company’s railroad, -connecting Orient with Havana and the western end of the Island. The -land surrounding the bay is exceptionally rich and is owned largely by -the United Fruit Company. Here they originally cultivated large fields -of bananas, but owing to their extensive plantations in Costa Rica, and -to the high price of sugar brought about by the war, their Cuban -properties have been converted into sugar plantations. The splendid -mills of Preston are located<a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a> on Nipe Bay, from which a half million -bags of sugar are shipped every year to the outside world. The rich -mines of the Mayari district belonging to the Bethlehem Steel Company -are located back of Nipe Harbor and contribute considerably to the -commerce of this port.</p> - -<p>Some five or six miles east of the entrance of Nipe we have the deep -double harbors of Cabonico and Levisa; the latter large and circular in -form, while Cabonico is comparatively small, and separated from Levisa -by a narrow peninsula that extends almost into the single entrance of -the two bays. The lands around this harbor are largely covered with -forests of magnificent hard woods, while the soil is rich enough to -produce cane for a quarter of a century or longer without replanting.</p> - -<p>Some 15 miles further east we have another fine large bay with a narrow -entrance on the Atlantic, known as Sagua de Tanamo. This bay is very -irregular in form, with many ramifications or branches reaching out -towards the east, south and west, while into it flows the Tanamo River, -draining the forest covered valleys and basins that lie between the -mountains of eastern Oriente and the north shore.</p> - -<p>Baracoa, an open roadstead, celebrated owing to the fact that here the -Spanish conquerors made their first settlement in the Pearl of the -Antilles in 1512, is a very picturesque bay, but unfortunately with -almost no protection from northerly winds that prevail during the winter -months. Cocoanuts form the chief article of export from Baracoa, which -is the last port of any note on the north coast of Cuba.</p> - -<p>Although the south coast of Cuba contains some of the finest harbors in -the world, Dame Nature was not quite so generous with her commercial -gateways along the Caribbean as along the shores bordering on the -Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico. Some 85 miles west of Cape Maisi we -come to the Bay of Guantanamo, a long, deep indentation from the -Caribbean, extending ten or twelve miles straight up into the land, and -in its upper<a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a> extension opening out into quite a wide sheet of water. -Guantanamo is deep, well protected, and of sufficient area to furnish -excellent anchorage for the navy of the United States. That which for -naval purposes gives Guantanamo especial strategic value is the fact -that its mouth, free from obstructions, is so wide that three -first-class battleships can leave or enter at full speed, without danger -of collision or interference, either with each other or with the -inclosing shores. This feature of the bay, which is not often found in -well protected harbors, together with the fact that it practically -commands the Caribbean Sea, and lies almost in a direct line between the -Atlantic Coast and the Panama Canal, were the reasons why Guantanamo was -selected in preference to all other bays as the United Naval Station in -the Republic of Cuba. During the last ten years many improvements have -taken place in Guantanamo and today its importance is not excelled by -that of any other naval station in the Western Hemisphere. The -Guantanamo Valley, one of the richest in the Island, furnishes a large -amount of cane that supplies seven or eight sugar mills located a little -back from the shore of the Bay.</p> - -<p>Fifty miles further west, near the center of the southern coast of -Oriente, the pent up streams and basins of the geological past have -broken through the chain of mountains bordering the Caribbean and by -erosion have formed one of the finest and most picturesque harbors in -the world. The Morro of Santiago stands on a high promontory at the -eastern entrance of its narrow mouth, passing through which the Bay -rapidly opens up into a charming panorama of palm covered islands, -strips of white beach, and distant mountains, that combine to render -Santiago one of the most beautiful harbors in the world. The City of -Santiago lies on a side hill sloping down to the water’s edge, and owing -to the fact of its being the southeastern terminus of the Cuba Company’s -lines, which connect it with Havana, and to the natural wealth of the -Province of Oriente itself, of which Santiago<a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a> is the chief commercial -city, it has no rival in the Republic outside of Havana. Several lines -of steamers connect Santiago, not only with the Atlantic and Gulf ports -of the United States, but also with Jamaica, Porto Rico, Panama and -Europe.</p> - -<p>Manzanillo, located on the west coast of Oriente, at the head of the -Gulf of Guacanabo, is the most important harbor in that section of the -province, and owing to the rich country lying back of it, whence are -shipped not only sugar, but hardwoods, hides and minerals, Manzanillo -Harbor is one of the most important in the eastern end of the Island. -Between this and Cienfuegos, which is the most important port on the -south coast of central Cuba, we have a stretch of several hundred miles -in which only harbors of the second order are found.</p> - -<p>Cienfuegos, or a “Hundred Fires,” is another of those beautiful, storm -protected inland pockets, with a narrow river-like channel connecting it -with the Caribbean. An old time 17th century fort nestles on the western -shore of the entrance, an interesting reminder of the days in which -every city and every harbor had to protect itself from the incursions of -privateers and pirates. Cienfuegos Bay extends from southeast to -northwest a distance of about fifteen miles, with a varying width of -from three to seven miles. The bay is dotted with charming islands, many -of which have been converted into delightful homes and tropical gardens, -where the wealthy people of the city pass most of their time in summer. -The city itself lies on the northern shore and is comparatively modern, -with wide streets and sidewalks. Good wharves and spacious warehouses -line the shores of the commercial part of the city. Cienfuegos is the -main gateway, not only for the sugar of southern Santa Clara but for the -whole southern coast of the central part of the Republic. Its commerce -ranks next to that of Santiago de Cuba, and the bay itself is one of the -most interesting in the Island.</p> - -<p>Further west, towards Cape San Antonio, while we<a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a> have many -comparatively shallow harbors and embarcaderos or shipping points for -coasting vessels and those of light draft, there are no other deep -harbors aside from that of the Bay of Cochinos, or Pig Gulf, which is -really an indentation of the coast line, extending from the Caribbean up -into the land some fifteen miles, with a width of 10 or 12 miles at its -mouth, gradually tapering towards the north, but furnishing no -protection from southerly gales.</p> - -<p>On either side of this bay are located low lands and swamps including -those of the Cienaga de Zapata, most of which will never be cultivated -unless drained. Extensive forests of hardwood timber surround the bay in -all directions. Several big drainage propositions have been projected at -different times but none, up to the present, have been carried into -execution.</p> - -<p>Batabano, almost due south of Havana, is quite a shipping point, -receiving fish, sponge and charcoal from the shallow waters and low -forests along the south coast of Havana Province and Pinar del Rio. -Fruit and vegetables are landed here from the Isle of Pines, but owing -to the shallow waters of the bay and its utter lack of protection from -any direction but the north, it can hardly be considered a harbor.</p> - -<p>Of harbors of the second order, Cuba has some twenty on the north coast, -most of which have depths varying from 10 to 15 feet, although a few may -be found difficult of entrance at low tide for boats drawing over ten -feet. Beginning on the northwest coast of Pinar del Rio, near Cape San -Antonio, we have El Cajon, Guardiana Bay, and moving northward, -Pinatillo, Mantua, Dimas and San Cayetano. At all of these with the -exception of the first, the light draft coasting steamers of the -Menendez Line stop every five days in their trips around the western end -of the Island, between Habana and Cienfuegos on the south coast. Santa -Lucia, a few miles west of San Cayetano, is used as the shipping port -for copper from the Matahambre Mines. The ore, however<a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a>, is conveyed in -lighters across the bay and transferred to steamers near Cayo Jutias.</p> - -<p>East of Havana, about half way to Matanzas, we have the embarcadero of -Santa Cruz, from which many vegetables, especially onions, are shipped -to Havana. Still further east, on the outer island shore is a harbor of -the second order near Paredon Grande, carrying twelve feet, and used -largely by fishermen and turtlers in stormy weather. Between Cayo -Confitas and Cayo Verde, there is a wide break in the barrier reef that -permits vessels in distress to find protection during periods of storm. -Some thirty miles west of Nuevitas is another break in the barrier reef -over which schooners drawing not more than seven or eight feet can find -shelter in the Bay of Guajaba. This is the deepest water approach to the -American colony of La Gloria. A little blasting would improve it.</p> - -<p>Nuevas Grandes, located midway between Nuevitas and Manati, on the coast -of Camaguey, is not easy of entrance in bad weather owing to surf -breaking on the outlying reefs, nor is the country back of it -sufficiently productive to give promise of much commerce in the future.</p> - -<p>On the north coast of Oriente we have a number of comparatively shallow -harbors, some of which furnish very good protection for vessels in bad -weather. The more important of these are Puerto Vita, Puerto Sama, -Tanamo and Puerto Naranjo.</p> - -<p>Along the south coast of Oriente we have Imias Sabana la Mar, Puerto -Escondido, Playa de Cuyuco and Daiquiri which, with the exception of the -latter, from which the Daiquiri iron mines ship their ore, have -practically no commerce.</p> - -<p>West of Santiago, on the same coast, are the little landing places of -Dos Rios, Cotibar, Turquino and Mota. Between the last two, however, we -have a fairly good harbor known as Portillo, that furnishes ample -protection for vessels drawing not more than 15 feet,<a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a> and is the -shipping point for the output of the sugar estates that surround -Portillo Bay.</p> - -<p>Between Cabo Cruz and Manzanillo are the embarcaderos of Nequiro, Media -Luna, Ceiba Hueca and Campechuela, from nearly all of which a -considerable amount of sugar is shipped during the season.</p> - -<p>North of Manzanillo, and extending west along the coast of Camaguey and -Santa Clara, we have the shallow harbors of Romero, Santa Cruz del Sur, -Jucaro, Tunas de Zaza and Casilda. The southern coast steamers stop at -each of these ports, and quite a large amount of sugar and hardwood is -shipped from them.</p> - -<p>From Cienfuegos west we have the Bahia de Cochinos and Batabano already -mentioned, together with La Paloma, Punta de Cartas, Bay of Cortes and -the Gulf of Corrientes, all of which are located along the south shore -of Pinar del Rio, and have quite an extensive local trade in charcoal, -fish and hardwood.<a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXII" id="CHAPTER_XXXII"></a>CHAPTER XXXII<br /><br /> -RAILROAD SYSTEMS IN CUBA</h2> - -<p>S<small>OMEWHAT</small> strange to relate, railroad building, insofar as it applied to -Spanish territory, had its inception in Cuba, at a time when the Island -was one of Spain’s colonial possessions. A few rich planters owning -large properties at Guines, an exceptionally fertile district some forty -miles from the capital, had kept in touch with experiments in railroad -building and steam locomotives, as a new source of power in the -commercial world, and for the purpose of trying out the practicability -of this new means of transportation bought a steam railway locomotive, -together with the necessary rails and equipment, for use in transporting -sugar cane and other produce from one point to another on their own -plantations. Besides this, the Nuevitas-Puerto Principe Railroad was the -first public service steam railroad ever built on Spanish soil.</p> - -<p>What is known as the United Railways of Havana may justly claim to be -the father of public railway transportation in the Island, since the -founders of the Company took advantage of the railway nucleus at Guines, -and gradually extended the line through various private properties until -it reached the city of Havana, while branches and connections were -thrown out in other directions. With the consent of the Colonial -Government, the entire property was later acquired at auction by an -English Company and began business as the United Railways of Havana.</p> - -<p>In 1886 the Company took over another short line known as the Alfonso -XII Railroad, that had been built three years before. After various -fusions and transfers,<a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a> these properties were combined in one, with an -initial capital of $16,875,196. The complete system of wharves and -warehouses at Regla passed into the possession of the Company at the -same time. Afterwards the short line connecting the city of Havana with -the suburb of Marianao was absorbed, followed later by the taking over -of the Cardenas and Jucaro Line.</p> - -<p>In 1906 the Matanzas Railway was brought into the corporation, giving it -at that time a combined length of 1127 kilometers, most of which was -included in the Provinces of Havana and Matanzas. Later the United -Railways were extended into the Province of Santa Clara as far east as -La Esperanza, making in the year 1903, over the Cuban Central Railway, -the much-desired connection with the Cuba Railroad to Santiago de Cuba -and the Bay of Nipe. In 1907 the Western Railway of Havana, connecting -the capital with Pinar del Rio, and the still further extension westward -to the town of Guane, were brought under the control of the United -Railways.</p> - -<p>From Guane north and east a new North Shore Road for Pinar del Rio has -been projected, which will circle around the western end of the Organ -Mountains passing through the towns of Mantua, Dimas and La Esperanza, -paralleling the Gulf Coast of the Province of Pinar del Rio until it -reaches Bahia Honda, where it will connect with the western extension of -the Havana Central now terminating at Guanajay. This projected line, -which has been approved by Congress and the Railroad Commission, will -pass through a comparatively undeveloped section of the Island, whose -rich mineral zones and fertile agricultural lands between Bahia Honda -and Guanajay have long suffered for lack of transportation. A very -substantial subsidy which will materially assist in the construction of -the road, may be considered as a guarantee of its early completion.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">GRAND CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, HAVANA</p> -<p>The city of Havana is not only the chief port but also the chief -railroad centre of Cuba, from which radiate trunk lines running east, -west and south, to all parts of the island, besides, of course, numerous -short suburban lines. Since the establishment of the Cuban Republic, by -mutually advantageous arrangement between the Government and the -companies, a general terminal for all these roads has been provided in a -handsome and commodious building conveniently placed adjacent to the -water front. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip354_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip354_sml.jpg" width="524" height="339" alt="GRAND CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, HAVANA - -The city of Havana is not only the chief port but also the chief -railroad centre of Cuba, from which radiate trunk lines running east, -west and south, to all parts of the island, besides, of course, numerous -short suburban lines. Since the establishment of the Cuban Republic, by -mutually advantageous arrangement between the Government and the -companies, a general terminal for all these roads has been provided in a -handsome and commodious building conveniently placed adjacent to the -water front." /></a> -</p> - -<p>The new electric lines connecting Havana with Guanajay in the west, and -Guines towards the southeast, were<a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a> joined to the United Railways, -and a magnificent railway terminal was built on the old Arsenal grounds, -acquired from the Government. This is a splendid modern four-story -building of brick, stone and steel, with two artistic towers reaching a -height of 125 feet, making it one of the most imposing edifices in the -City. From this station trains arrive and depart for every part of the -Island.</p> - -<p>The combined mileage at present operating under the control of the -United Railways of Havana is 1,609 kilometers or 963 miles.</p> - -<p>From the viewpoint of commercial progress and utility it may be safely -stated that Sir William Van Horne, by building the much needed -connecting link of railroad between the eastern terminus of the United -Railways at Santa Clara and the two terminals of the Cuba Company’s road -at Antilla on the north coast, and Santiago de Cuba on the south, -conferred on this Island a greater benefit than any other one man in -that realm of affairs.</p> - -<p>Immediately after the American occupation of the Island, Sir William Van -Horne visited Cuba, en route to Demarara, British Guiana, and got only -as far as Cienfuegos, Cuba. He later rode over the rich country lying -between Santa Clara and the city of Santiago de Cuba, and in his fertile -brain was promptly visualized a line of railroad passing through the -center of the three eastern and largest provinces of the Island, and -terminating on the shore of the two finest bays of Oriente, connecting -this by rail with the west portion of Cuba. The Foraker Resolutions -prohibited the securing of a franchise for the building of such a -railroad, and but little encouragement was given Sir William Van Horne, -while a number of obstacles were presented, including difficulties in -securing right of way for the proposed railroad, without the right of -condemnation. Owners of properties that were practically inaccessible, -and whose products could not be exported except at great cost, were -seemingly blind to the advantages that would accrue to<a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a> them from the -construction of such a line. This big-brained pioneer, however, who had -only recently built the Canadian Pacific across the plains and mountains -of the North American Continent, did not hesitate a moment in -undertaking and carrying out his project of connecting the capital of -Cuba with the rich and undeveloped territory lying to the eastward. -Where right of way was not granted willingly he bought the properties -outright, and built his railroad practically over his own farms and -fields, with but little local assistance and no land grants of any kind.</p> - -<p>The Cuba Company’s line, including the branches contributary to it and -under its direction, measures 717 miles. The main line begins at Santa -Clara and passes through Placetas del Sur, Zaza del Medio, Ciego de -Avila, Camaguey, Marti, Victoria de las Tunas, Cacocum, Alto Cedro and -San Luis, to Santiago de Cuba, a distance of 573 kilometers. From Alto -Cedro a line was built north to Antilla, 50 kilometers distant on Nipe -Bay, whence the greater portion of the freight destined for northern -markets is shipped directly to New York.</p> - -<p>Of the numerous branch lines, beginning in the west, may be mentioned -two that leave Placetas del Sur, one extending north to Placetas and -through connections to the harbor of Caibarien; the other, built in a -southerly direction, to the city of Trinidad on the south coast. From -Zaza del Medio, in the Province of Santa Clara, a branch extends almost -due south to Sancti Spiritus, and thence, through connections with the -Sancti Spiritus Railroad to Zaza on the shore of the Caribbean. At Ciego -de Avila, the Cuba Company’s road is crossed by what is known as the -Jucaro & Moron Road, built many years ago as a military line through the -center of the trocha, or barrier, intended to prevent insurrectionary -troops passing from Camaguey into the western part of the Island. This -short stretch of railway connects San Fernando on the north coast with -Jucaro on the Caribbean.</p> - -<p>At Camaguey, the old Camaguey and Nuevitas Road<a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a> during many years had -enjoyed a monopoly in the transportation of products to the coast. The -Cuba Company absorbed and incorporated the road, securing thus a -valuable adjunct to its system. The Bay of Nuevitas was not of -sufficient depth to permit large vessels loading at the old wharves, so -the Cuba Company extended the road five kilometers to Punta de -Pastelillo, where sugar warehouses and wharves have been built, so that -sugar from all the mills of central Camaguey can be delivered aboard -ship, doing away with the old system of lightering out to deep water.</p> - -<p>From Marti, 60 kilometers east of Camaguey on the main line, a -southeastern extension was built across country to the City of Bayamo, -in the southwestern center of the Province of Oriente, 127 kilometers -distant. Another branch built from Manzanillo on the west coast of -Bayamo, 56 kilometers in length, opened up a section of country -previously inaccessible. From Bayamo a road parallel to the main line -has been built east to San Luis, 98 kilometers, furnishing an exit for -one of the richest sections of the Cauto Valley, and also for the rich -mineral zones that lie on the southern slope of the Sierra Maestra -Mountains. This line from Marti to San Luis passes through one -continuous stretch of sugar cane fields, extending as far as the eye can -reach, north and south, throughout its entire length.</p> - -<p>From Cacocum a short line of 18 kilometers extends north to Holguin. Up -to the completion of this connecting link, the city of Holguin, in north -central Oriente, had been connected with the outside world only through -the medium of a short road terminating at Gibara on the Atlantic coast, -where coasting steamers stopped weekly.</p> - -<p>A branch from Placetas del Sur to Casilda, 90 kilometers, is in process -of construction. Another will connect the city of Camaguey with Santa -Cruz del Sur on the Caribbean, 98 kilometers away. At San Luis -connection is made with the Guantanamo & Western Railway, where -passengers for the United States Naval Station<a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a> on Guantanamo Bay, and -the rich sugar districts lying north and west of the harbor, are -transferred.</p> - -<p>The Cuba system is equipped with 156 locomotives, 125 passenger coaches, -5013 freight cars, 70 baggage cars and 131 construction cars. In the -harbors of Antilla and Nuevitas twelve steamers, tugs and launches are -employed in making the various necessary transfers of material from one -point to another. On the lines of the Cuba system and its branches are -30 sugar estates and mills, with nine new ones under construction. Daily -trains connecting Havana with Santiago de Cuba leave the terminal -station at 10.00 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, making the trip in about 24 hours.</p> - -<p>With the completion of the Cuba Company’s lines, the interior of the -Provinces of Oriente, Camaguey and much of Santa Clara were opened up to -the commerce of the world for the first time. During the years that have -elapsed since its completion, a large amount of valuable hard wood, -cedar, mahogany, etc., growing along the line, have been cut and shipped -to nearby seaports for export to the United States and other countries. -With the building of this line, too, some of the richest lands of Cuba -were rendered available for the production of sugar, and today a vast -area is under cultivation in cane, and four hundred thousand tons or -more of sugar, with the assistance of this road, was delivered each year -to the Allies who were fighting in France and Belgium. Thus Sir William -Van Home’s foresight enabled the Republic of Cuba to “do its bit” in a -very practical way towards the furtherance of the cause of universal -democracy.</p> - -<p>No account of the Cuba Railroad would, however, be complete which failed -to make mention of the part played in its construction and initial -organization by Mr. R. G. Ward, of New York City, whose energy and -industry, first as manager of construction and later as manager of -operation, combined with the character of the men by whom he surrounded -himself are generally<a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a> recognized as having been potent if not dominant -factors in determining the rapidity with which the original main line of -that railroad, extending from Santa Clara to Santiago, was built, and -the promptness and thoroughness with which it was put into operation. -The importance of this achievement is emphasized, when it is taken into -consideration that the entire line was located and built without the -right of eminent domain, which necessitated the acquisition of -practically the whole of the right of way through private negotiation. -It is stated that the cross-ties and rails were placed by track-laying -machines of his devising, which, with crews of less than one hundred -men, could, and often did, lay down three miles of full-tied, -full-spiked and full-bolted track per day per machine. He also is -credited with having inaugurated the policy of employing Cubans or -residents of Cuba, whenever it was possible to obtain them to do the -work required. Rather than import telegraph operators needed to run the -newly constructed railroad, he opened and operated, free of all cost or -expense to the students, a School of Telegraphy, under the direction of -Horace H. McGinty, through whose administration nearly one hundred -operators were qualified for positions in less than six months. Sir -William Van Horne, who himself was an expert railroad telegraph -operator, regarded this as a “marvelous achievement, creditable alike to -Mr. Ward, to Mr. McGinty, and to the character and capacity of the young -Cuban students;” many of whom have since held good positions in Cuba, in -Mexico and in the Argentine Republic.</p> - -<p>The Cuba Central Road of the Province of Santa Clara occupies third -place in commercial importance among Cuba’s system of railroads. This -Company’s lines were built largely for the benefit of the older sugar -estates of Santa Clara, located around Sagua la Grande, Remedios, -Caribarien, Cienfuentes, Isabel de las Lajas, etc. The main line of the -Cuba Central extends from Isabel de Sagua, a port on the north coast, -almost due<a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a> north to Cruces, a junction on the Cuba Road midway between -Santa Clara and Cienfuegos.</p> - -<p>Another important division of the line runs from Sagua east to the -seaport of Caibarien, passing through Camajuani and Remedios. The Cuba -Central lines, while public highways in every sense of the word, may be -classed among the roads dedicated largely to the service of the sugar -planters of Santa Clara.</p> - -<p>Among the independent projected lines of Cuba, the North Shore Road, at -present under construction at several different points in the Provinces -of Camaguey and Santa Clara, is one of marked importance. This road has -its western terminal at Caibarien, on the north shore of Santa Clara, -whence it extends eastward, passing through an exceptionally rich valley -that furnishes cane to some half-dozen large sugar mills, and continues -eastward through Moron, in the Province of Camaguey. It parallels the -north coast, extending eastward across the rich grazing lands of the -Caunao River, and stretching out further eastward, traverses the virgin -forests that lie between the Sierra de Cubitas and the Bays of Guanaja -and Guajaba. Leaving the Cubitas slope, it crosses the Maximo and -eventually reaches deep water anchorage on the shores of the western -extension of Nuevitas Harbor.</p> - -<p>This line is at present under construction from Nuevitas westward and -from Moron both east and west. In the winter of 1918-19 the line was -finished from the deep water terminal on Nuevitas Harbor as far west as -the Maximo River. When completed it will pass through one of the richest -agricultural and mineral sections of the Island.</p> - -<p>From the crossing of the Maximo a branch line is being built around the -eastern end of the Sierra de Cubitas in order to tap the rich Cubitas -iron mines, whose deposits are waiting only transportation in order to -contribute a large share of wealth to the prosperity of the Republic.<a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXXIII<br /><br /> -MONEY AND BANKING</h2> - -<p>A perusal of Cuban history shows that within a few years after the -country was settled, questions in regard to the exchange value of its -moneys arose, which were not effectually resolved till the lapse of -nearly four centuries later, upon the establishment of the Cuban -Republic.</p> - -<p>As with the other early Spanish colonies of the New World, the -circulating medium was at first solely metallic. A credit currency was -not suited to a primitive country, whose foreign trade was largely -clandestine, open to piracy and other perils, its lawful commerce being -limited to the port of Cadiz, Spain, under the monopoly of a board of -trade known as the “Contratacion de las Indias,” succeeded in 1740 by -the “Real Compania de la Habana,” till the English occupation in 1762.</p> - -<p>The position of Cuba on the highroad between Europe and Latin America -made its harbors the Mecca of the Spanish fleets of those days. The gold -and silver mines of Mexico and South America poured their millions into -the Island after the year 1545, when the deposits of San Luis Potosi -were opened to the world, the volume of the output being brought to -Havana before distribution to Europe and other parts.</p> - -<p>Instead of ships making the transatlantic journey alone as at present, -large merchant fleets, laden with immense treasure, were convoyed by war -vessels at long intervals, as a safeguard against filibusters and -buccaneers as well as to preclude possible competition.</p> - -<p>In 1550 a monetary crisis occurred in Havana, owing to the failure of -the governor, Dr. Gonzalo Perez de Angulo, to enforce the provision of -the Spanish law, that the silver Real should be estimated at 34 -maravedis, instead of 40 to 44, the commercial rate prevailing at Vera<a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a> -Cruz, Santo Domingo, Cartagena de las Indias and other points near the -silver mines. The governor, actuated by private interests, claimed that -conditions in Cuba justified the same rate as in these places, and that -the legal rate of 34 to 1, if applied, would drain the country of its -silver stock.</p> - -<p>These views were also expressed by travellers going from Mexico to -Spain, who were obliged to make a long stoppage in Havana, where their -money was exchanged, insisting that they should receive the larger or -commercial rate for their silver as in other places.</p> - -<p>Not disposed to change his attitude in the matter, the Spanish King -issued a royal circular reasserting the legal rate of 34 to 1 for Cuba, -under a penalty of 100,000 maravedis, instead of 10,000 as fixed in his -former order, for each violation.</p> - -<p>The sovereign mandate was complied with, as peace and policy required, -but this demand for a higher valuation of money in Cuba than in the -mother country is taken as the origin of the premium afterwards placed -on Spanish coin, with which the people of later times are familiar.</p> - -<p>When in the year 1779 the Spanish gold onza was coined, its par value -was estimated at 16 pesos in Spain. But in Cuba it was shortly -afterwards taken to represent 17 pesos, or a premium of about 6%, which -it continued to hold until the repatriation of Spanish money a few years -ago. This premium was expected to keep gold in the country, at an excess -valuation, along with the annual output of $800,000 in silver coming -from Mexico, sugar and tobacco being exported from Cuba to North America -and Europe as an offset thereto.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">LEOPOLDO CANCIO</p> -<p>Born at Sancti Spiritus on May 30. 1851, Leopoldo Cancio y Luna rose to -eminence as a jurist, economist and financier; and for many years has -filled the chair of Economics and Finance in the University of Havana. -As one of the founders of the Autonomist party he became a Deputy in the -Spanish Cortes after the Ten Years’ War. Under the Governorship of -General Brooke he was Assistant Secretary and under General Leonard Wood -he was Secretary of Finance, an office which he now fills in the Cabinet -of President Menocal. He was the author of the great monetary reforms of -1914. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip362_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip362_sml.jpg" width="348" height="515" alt="LEOPOLDO CANCIO - -Born at Sancti Spiritus on May 30. 1851, Leopoldo Cancio y Luna rose to -eminence as a jurist, economist and financier; and for many years has -filled the chair of Economics and Finance in the University of Havana. -As one of the founders of the Autonomist party he became a Deputy in the -Spanish Cortes after the Ten Years’ War. Under the Governorship of -General Brooke he was Assistant Secretary and under General Leonard Wood -he was Secretary of Finance, an office which he now fills in the Cabinet -of President Menocal. He was the author of the great monetary reforms of -1914." /></a> -</p> - -<p>When the modern Spanish centen or alfonsino, and the French Louis or 20 -franc gold piece, came into vogue, they were also admitted to Cuba at -the same ratio as the onza, namely a 6% premium or 17 to 18 -approximately, to the detriment of Cuban industry and commerce, -throughout the course of the nineteenth century.<a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a></p> - -<p>In the year 1868 Spain passed from a silver to a double standard, -adopting the peseta as the monetary unit, equal in weight and fineness -to the French franc and that of other countries of the Latin Union, -composed of France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland and Greece by the -monetary conventions of 1865 and 1868. The Isabellan silver escudo, -adopted in Spain as the unit by the law of June 24, 1864, was thereby -demonetized.</p> - -<p>But the Spanish peseta, consisting of gold or silver indifferently, -while circulating freely in Cuba along with French gold and American -currency in recent times till 1915, did not become the unit of value in -the Island. The Spanish gold dollar (peso oro Espanol), an imaginary -coin equal to five Spanish gold pesetas (of 24.8903 grains of pure gold -each) considered at a premium of 106, weighing 21.13 grains of fine gold -(as a result of the 6% premium), and circulating in the form of current -Spanish or French gold pieces, was taken as the standard. By reason of -such premium these coins were received in the country at $5.30 oro -espanol for the centen (25 peseta gold piece) and $4.24 oro espanol for -the Louis and doblon (25 franc and 25 peseta gold pieces of equal weight -and fineness), which values they held till the last of Spanish money -circulation in the Island.</p> - -<p>The use of Colonial paper money in Cuba, during the wars with the -Spanish government, did not substantially lessen the demand for actual -coin, and it was not until after the Spanish-American War of 1898 that -new conditions arose which afforded credit and security for the -introduction of a composite system of currency.</p> - -<p>When the American government was established at Santiago in 1898, one of -its first acts was to stabilize the currency of the eastern part of the -Island. United States money was forthwith adopted as the lawful medium -and Spanish silver was eliminated accordingly. In the provinces of -Havana, Pinar del Rio, Matanzas and Santa Clara, Spanish gold and silver -continued in use, along with French gold and U. S. currency, at varying -market<a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a> quotations from day to day, until the adoption of a national -standard by the Cuban Congress under the law of October 29, 1914, by -virtue of which the Cuban gold peso, of weight and fineness similar to -the American dollar, was declared the unit, and United States money a -legal tender.</p> - -<p>Under the authority of the Secretary of Finance, Spanish and other -moneys were shipped abroad from Cuba as follows</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:.9em;"> -<tr><td colspan="2"><i>Fiscal Year 1914-1915</i> (ending June 30th):</td></tr> -<tr><td> United States</td><td align="right">$3,032,529.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Spain</td><td align="right">1,435,192.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Canary Islands</td><td align="right" class="bb">66,000.00</td><td align="right">$4,533,721.00</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2"><i>Fiscal Year 1915-1916</i>:</td></tr> -<tr><td> United States</td><td align="right">17,337,734.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Spain</td><td align="right">17,411,003.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> France</td><td align="right">60,000.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Canary Islands</td><td align="right" class="bb">38,300.00</td><td align="right">34,847,037.00</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2"><i>Fiscal Year 1916-1917</i>:</td></tr> -<tr><td> United States</td><td align="right">317,253.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Spain</td><td align="right">24,332,707.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Mexico</td><td align="right">45,000.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> Canary Islands</td><td align="right" class="bb">13,240.00</td> -<td align="right" class="bb">24,708,200.00</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Total, reduced to U. S. Currency</td><td align="right">$64,088,958.00</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Of the above shipments, those to the United States were principally for -recoinage to Cuban gold of the new issue and were brought back later in -national coin. They also include $5,934,810.00 Spanish silver (value in -U.S. currency) sent to Spain between August, 1915, and June, 1917. This -delicate operation was affected gradually and in such a manner as not to -disturb the monetary or exchange values of the country. By June 1, 1916, -all conversions of accounts had been practically made to the new system.</p> - -<p>As a result of the new monetary law and its regulations, the entire -supply of Cuban money was minted at Philadelphia, through the medium of -the National Bank of<a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a> Cuba, the Government Fiscal Agents, in the -following quantities:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:.9em;"> -<tr><td>Gold Coins:</td><td align="right">$20 pieces</td><td align="right">$1,135,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">10 pieces</td><td align="right">12,635,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">5 pieces</td><td align="right">9,140,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">4 pieces</td><td align="right">540,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">2 pieces</td><td align="right">320,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">1 pieces</td><td align="right">17,250</td><td align="right"> $23,787,250</td></tr> -<tr><td>Silver Coins:</td><td align="right"> $1 pieces</td><td align="right" class="bt">2,819,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">40¢ pieces</td><td align="right">1,128,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">20¢ pieces</td><td align="right">2,090,000</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">10¢ pieces</td><td align="right">625,000</td><td align="right">6,662,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Nickel Coins:</td><td align="right">5¢ pieces</td><td align="right" class="bt">340,450</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">2¢ pieces</td><td align="right">228,210</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="right">1¢ pieces</td><td align="right" class="bb">187,120</td><td align="right">755,780</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="3" align="center">Total Coinage</td><td align="right" class="bt">$31,205,030</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The above national supply of coin, together with perhaps twice the same -amount of U. S. currency in general circulation, has been found -sufficient for the country’s normal needs, and Cuba thereby -automatically becomes, in law and in fact, a part of the American -monetary system of the present day.</p> - -<p>As the country exports the bulk of its products and imports most -articles of consumption and use, including machinery and implements, it -follows that Cuba is in normal times one of the highest priced countries -of the world, and under conditions due to the European War the cost of -living is enormous.</p> - -<p>To move the country’s resources annually requires the use of millions of -dollars from abroad, which the banks obtain and circulate in legal -tender (which means United States money and Cuban coin) according to -local demands.</p> - -<p>It follows, therefore, that the chief functions of banking in Cuba are -Discount, Deposit, Exchange, Collections, Collateral Loans, Foreign -Credits and the distribution of money throughout the country.</p> - -<p>The principal banks serving the financial needs of Cuba are the -following:<a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a></p> - -<p>The National City Bank of New York. Capital, $25,000,000.</p> - -<p>Banco Español de la Isla de Cuba. Capital, $8,000,000.</p> - -<p>Banco National de Cuba. Capital, $6,860,455.</p> - -<p>Banco Territorial de Cuba. Capital, $5,000,000.</p> - -<p>Royal Bank of Canada. Capital and surplus, $25,000,000.</p> - -<p>The Trust Company of Cuba. Capital, $500,000.</p> - -<p>Banco Mercantile Americano de Cuba. Capital, $2,000,000; surplus, -$500,000.</p> - -<p>Banco Prestatario de Cuba. Capital, $500,000. (Makes loans on personal -property, approved notes, mortgages, etc.)<a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXXIV<br /><br /> -PUBLIC INSTRUCTION</h2> - -<p>T<small>HINKING</small> men and women, the world over, realize that the hope, security -and well being of the future lies in properly educating the children of -the present. From an educated community we have nothing to fear. -Mistakes in government policies may occur, but where intelligence -dwells, right and justice will soon prevail over wrong. Education to-day -is universally recognized as the most efficient and potent safeguard -against crime and lawlessness of all kind, and in no section of the -world is the need of general education more gravely manifest than in the -Latin-American Republics of the Western Hemisphere.</p> - -<p>Education in all of these countries, from the beginning of their -existence as colonies of Spain, has been, unfortunately under the -control of the Church, and with the exception of Cuba, largely so -remains to-day. Even in this progressive little Republic, the clerical -influence on tuition, from the kindergarten to the university, is more -or less prevalent. The influence of the priest and the prelate, exerted -in the home, usually through the mother, still casts its shadow over -true educational progress, especially among those of the gentler sex. -There are, of course, many well educated women in Cuba, but they are -women whose intellectual longings and aspirations could not be held in -check.</p> - -<p>True, some of the most brilliant men in Cuba have been pupils of church -institutions, but men of this stamp and minds of this calibre held from -birth all the promise and potency of greatness. Their intellectual -lights could not be hidden under the proverbial bushel.</p> - -<p>In 1896 the population of the Island was 1,572,791,<a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a> of whom 1,400,884 -were unable to read, 33,003 knew how to read but not to write, while -19,158 had received the advantages of what was termed higher education. -Even this paucity of true knowledge was frequently superficial and sadly -warped by obsolete tradition.</p> - -<p>When, at the beginning of American intervention, that generous and able -group of American officers under General Wood took charge of affairs in -Cuba, the need of even a rudimentary education among the untutored -masses was painfully apparent. A report of conditions prevailing was -forwarded to Washington. Secretary Root referred the matter to President -Eliot of Harvard, and as a result Mr. Alexis E. Frye was sent to Havana -to establish in Cuba the American school system, or one as nearly like -that in vogue in the United States as conditions would permit.</p> - -<p>The selection of Mr. Frye was a wise one, and the people have never -ceased to be grateful for the admirable and unselfish efforts of that -remarkably clever teacher to place public instruction on a firm -foundation in Cuba. After going carefully over the ground and studying -the situation thoroughly Mr. Frye, working by candle light in a backroom -of the Hotel Pasaje, drafted the school law and wrote the rules and -regulations that today form the base of public instruction in the -island. Soon after, Mr. Frye was appointed Superintendent of Schools. -His salary was $400 a month, but every month’s pay check was divided -into eight parts and distributed among those schools where it would do -the most good. He would accept no recompense whatever for himself.</p> - -<p>In the work of establishing a modern system of education in Cuba Mr. -Frye received valuable aid from a remarkably gifted and brilliant young -Cuban named Lincoln de Zayas. Dr. de Zayas was a descendant of one of -the most prominent families in Havana. He had been educated in the -United States, was graduated from the school of medicine of Columbia -University in New York, was a master of some five or six languages, and -knew<a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a> the character of his own people. He assisted Mr. Frye in solving -many delicate problems and in overcoming troublesome obstacles, many of -which resulted from the former ecclesiastical control of everything -pertaining to education. Dr. Francisco Barrero, a writer, student and -poet, was made assistant director of education.</p> - -<p>During the second year of American intervention, Mr. Frye interested -Harvard University in the subject of Cuban education. This finally -resulted in an invitation from that institution to a large body of -potential Cuban teachers to come to Boston and enjoy during the summer -months special instruction provided for them by the president and -faculty of the University. Through Mr. Frye’s efforts and those of -General Wood, then Military Governor of the Island, the Washington -government became interested in the school problem in Cuba, and through -the War Department furnished passage in one of the large American -transports for all teachers who cared to visit the United States in the -interest of Cuban education. Some 1600 teachers, mostly young ladies, -were selected from applicants in various parts of the Island, and -conveyed on the U.S. transport General McClellan to the city of Boston, -where they were comfortably lodged and cared for during a period of -three months as guests of Harvard University.</p> - -<p>The direct educational benefit derived by these young Cuban teachers was -almost incalculable. A great majority of them had no knowledge whatever -of the English language, and knew but little of the outside world. The -press of Cuba in those days was limited in its fund of general -information or other matter that might be of educational value to the -reading public. Nor had education, especially among women, been -encouraged during the days of Spain’s control over the island.</p> - -<p>The summer work at Harvard was a revelation. The educational seed fell -upon receptive soil, and the young teachers who were fortunate enough to -be selected as guests of that institution gave an excellent account of<a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a> -themselves in work that followed during the early days of the Republic. -Incidentally Mr. Frye chose one of these young teachers as his companion -through life. After Mr. Frye’s departure, Lieut. Hanna, at the -suggestion of General Wood, made some changes and additions to the -public school system of Cuba, conforming it somewhat to the methods then -in vogue in the State of Ohio.</p> - -<p>With the installation of the Cuban Republic in 1902 public instruction -came directly under the supervision of the Central or Federal -Government, and the Secretary of Public Instruction was made a member of -the President’s Cabinet, adding thus dignity and importance to that -branch of work on which the character of succeeding generations -depended. Unfortunately for the cause of education it has been found -rather difficult to separate the Department of Public Instruction from a -certain amount of political interference, which has tended to mar its -efficiency and retard progress.</p> - -<p>With the beginning of the second Government of Intervention in 1906, Dr. -Lincoln de Zayas was made Secretary of Public Instruction under Governor -Magoon, and with his untiring devotion to the cause of true knowledge, -as well as his keen insight into the modern or more improved methods of -teaching, interest in public instruction in Cuba was greatly revived, -and English began to assume a far more important role in the primary and -grammar schools than in former days.</p> - -<p>The services of an excellent teacher, Miss Abbie Phillips, of -California, was secured as General Superintendent of English throughout -the Republic, and under her direction was formed a corps of remarkably -competent Cuban women, who accomplished much in a short time towards -making the study of English in the public schools more popular than it -had been. With the death of Dr. de Zayas the cause of public instruction -seemed again partially to relapse into its former desuetude. Yet in -spite of the misfortune that thus befell it, the work has proceeded more -satisfactorily than might have been expected<a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a>, owing to the strong -desire on the part of the youth of the Republic to learn, and to shake -off the fetters that had previously kept them in a kind of a respectable -ignorance.</p> - -<p>During President Menocal’s administration the resignation of the -Secretary of Public Instruction gave opportunity for the selection and -appointment to that office of Dr. Dominguez Roldan, who has endeavored -to inject new life into the cause and to place this important branch of -the Government once more in a position that will command the respect, -not only of the people of Cuba, but also of the outside world. New -school houses, designed expressly for the purpose, are replacing the old -and inadequate buildings that were formerly rented. The study of -English, that had been discouraged by his predecessor, is being again -revived, and many steps in the cause of learning are being taken whose -wisdom will become evident in the near future.</p> - -<p>In 1913, when Mario G. Menocal assumed the direction of the Government -of Cuba, there were but 262 schools in the island, while to-day there -are 1136, showing an increase of 1074; with 335,291 pupils attending. No -fewer than 1746 teachers have been appointed and added to the Department -of Public Instruction in Cuba. In addition to this two night schools -have recently been established, one in Santiago de Cuba and one in -Bayamo. Four kindergartens, or “School Gardens,” as they are now termed, -have recently been established in the Province of Santa Clara.</p> - -<p>At the present time, throughout the Republic of Cuba, there is a total -of 5,685 teachers in the primary schools. Among these are included 116 -teachers who render special service throughout the different sections of -the country, 19 teachers of night schools, 118 teachers devoted to -school gardens, 40 teachers of cutting and sewing, 26 teachers of -English, 21 of Sloyd, and 4 teachers devoted to instruction in jails. In -1915 a normal school, co-educational, was established in each of five of -the Provinces<a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a>. Havana has two normal schools, one for boys and the -other for girls.</p> - -<p>During the year 1918 a school of Domestic Economy, Arts and Sciences, -known as the “School of the Home,” was established. The object of this -school, as that of similar institutions, is to prepare the future wife -and mother so that she may be able to undertake in an intelligent manner -the direction of the home. Among the subjects taught are accounting, -domestic economy, moral and civic obligations, hygiene, the care of -infants and of the sick, cutting, sewing, dressmaking, basket-making, -and elementary physics and chemistry, which form the base of scientific -cooking. In addition to these, gardening, the care of animals, ordinary -and higher cooking are taught; also washing and ironing, dyeing, the -removing of stains, and the proper method of cleaning and taking care of -shoes. In order to make the school popular and to insure its success, a -society of patriotic and intelligent women has been formed, from which -much practical benefit is expected in the future.</p> - -<p>In order to provide for and to permit the scientific development both -physical and mental of the Cuban youth, the Department of Public -Instruction has established a separate institution, with an experimental -annex, for the purpose of studying the eccentricities and aptitudes of -Cuban children.</p> - -<p>The order of sequence of public instruction in Cuba, as previously -stated, has followed very largely that of the United States. The school -gardens are followed by primary and grammar schools, all suitably -graded, and the course of studies is more or less similar to that of the -United States.</p> - -<p>The Institute of Havana, located for many years in the old convent -building just back of the Governor General’s Palace, occupies a place -between the grammar school and the University. The course of studies and -scope of this institution is similar to the average high school of -America. New buildings are being erected for<a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a> the accommodation of the -several thousand boys and girls who attend the institute, and with its -removal to more commodious and congenial quarters, this important seat -of learning will be reorganized with greatly increased efficiency.</p> - -<p>The National University of Havana was founded under the direction of -monks of the Dominican Order on January 5, 1728, and until the -installation of the Republic occupied the old convent that afterwards -served as the Institute. To-day the University of Havana can boast of -one of the most picturesque and delightful locations occupied by any -seat of learning in the world. It crowns the northeast corner of the -high plateau, overlooking the capital of the Republic from the west. Its -altitude is several hundred feet above the plain below, with the Gulf of -Mexico close by on the north and old Morro Castle standing at the -entrance of a beautiful harbor, that stretches out along the far eastern -horizon, sweeping afterwards toward the south. The city of Havana fills -the center of the picture, while in the immediate foreground nestle the -forests of the Botanical Gardens and the Quinto de los Molinos, or -summer residence of the former Spanish Governor Generals, with their -beautiful drives sweeping along the front and up to the crest of the -plateau.</p> - -<p>The broad stone staircase at the entrance to the grounds is quite in -keeping with the dignity of the place and the numerous buildings devoted -to various departments of learning are harmonious in design and -commodious in appointment. A giant laurel, with an expanse of shade that -would protect a small army of men, occupied the center of an old -courtyard that once belonged to the fortifications commanding the -Principe Heights.</p> - -<p>To these buildings will soon be added another to be known as the -National School of Languages, at a cost of $150,000. This edifice, -sumptuous in its appointments, will be dedicated largely to the -reciprocal study of Spanish and English. American students who wish<a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a> to -perfect their knowledge of Spanish will be invited from the various -universities of the United States to visit Cuba, at stated periods of -the year, for the purpose of studying and improving their acquaintance -with this language through direct contact with the students and -professors of the University. The latter, on the other hand, will be -afforded an excellent opportunity to perfect their knowledge of English -by mingling with visiting students from the United States, and it is -believed that the result of acquaintances and friendships, formed in -this way, many of which will be sustained through life, will add greatly -to those bonds of friendship and mutual understanding that resulted from -America’s assistance to Cuba in her War for Independence, and that for a -thousand reasons should never be permitted to relapse or sink into -indifference.</p> - -<p>The national or public library of Cuba, located in the Maestranza, one -of the most substantial of those old buildings that have come down from -the days of Spanish dominion, was founded during the first American -intervention by General Leonard Wood, on October 18, 1901. It is open to -the public every day of the week except Sunday, from 8 to 11 in the -morning and from 1 to 5 in the afternoon, except Saturday, when access -may be secured at any time between 8 and 12 in the morning.</p> - -<p>The library contains at the present time about twenty thousand volumes. -This does not however include a great mass of pamphlets and unbound -manuscripts, documents, papers, etc., which form a valuable part of the -collection. These volumes are largely in Spanish, French and English, -and include all of the more important branches of human knowledge. Among -them may be found an excellent collection of the best encyclopedias and -dictionaries of those languages.</p> - -<p>Its collection of American History is extensive; in addition to which -may be mentioned a valuable collection of works on international law, -given by the eminent jurist Dr. Antonio S. de Bustamante, who -represented the Republic<a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a> of Cuba at the Peace Conference in Paris at -the conclusion of the Great War.</p> - -<p>Among other gifts to the public library may be mentioned a series of -large, beautiful, artistic drawings in colors, that represent all that -is known of the Aztec and Toltec life existing in the Republic of Mexico -at the time of the Spanish Conquest in the early part of the 16th -century. These engravings have been drawn and colored with marvelous -care. They are assembled in the form of an atlas which permits close -study and makes one of the most interesting and valuable contributions -of this kind to be found in any part of the world. They were presented -to Cuba by General Porfirio Diaz, President of the Republic of Mexico.</p> - -<p>Arrangements have been made to catalogue the volumes of the library. For -this purpose experts have been secured and the space amplified, and when -this work is completed, while the library will not offer the luxurious -quarters of institutions of its kind in other countries, it will be -useful and accessible to those who wish to avail themselves of its -services.<a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXV" id="CHAPTER_XXXV"></a>CHAPTER XXXV<br /><br /> -OCEAN TRANSPORTATION</h2> - -<p>T<small>RANSPORTATION</small> is the handmaid of production. Where transportation -facilities are faulty, exchange of commodities is necessarily restricted -to local demands, and commerce with the outside world is practically -impossible. Good harbors are among the first essentials to foreign -trade, and with deep, well protected bays, Cuba has been bountifully -supplied. Every sheltered indentation of her two thousand miles of coast -line, from the days of Colon, has been an invitation for passing ships -to enter. The wealth of the island in agriculture and mineral and forest -products, has made the visits of these ocean carriers profitable; hence -the phenomenal growth of Cuba’s foreign commerce.</p> - -<p>In spite of the stupid restriction of trade enforced by Spain in the -early colonial days, contraband commerce assumed large proportions -during the 17th century, and when England’s fleet captured Havana in -1763, the capital of Cuba enjoyed a freedom of foreign exchange never -before known. Quantities of sugar, coffee, hides and hardwoods, large -for those times, demanded transportation during the second quarter of -the 19th century. Foreign trade, too, was greatly stimulated in Cuba by -conditions resulting from the Civil War in the United States. The rapid -development of the sugar industry following this war soon called for -more permanent lines of ocean transportation.</p> - -<div class="caption"> -<p class="cb">THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, HAVANA</p> -<p>The Chamber of Commerce is one of the oldest civic organizations in -Cuba, which even under the repressive and discouraging rule of Spanish -Governors did much for the material progress of the Island. Under the -Republic its activities and achievements have of course been immensely -increased, and it is now appropriately housed in one of the finest -public buildings of the capital. A certain resemblance to the famous -Cooper Union building in New York has often been remarked, though the -Havana edifice is the more ornate and attractive of the two. -</p> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ip376_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ip376_sml.jpg" width="565" height="367" alt="THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, HAVANA - -The Chamber of Commerce is one of the oldest civic organizations in -Cuba, which even under the repressive and discouraging rule of Spanish -Governors did much for the material progress of the Island. Under the -Republic its activities and achievements have of course been immensely -increased, and it is now appropriately housed in one of the finest -public buildings of the capital. A certain resemblance to the famous -Cooper Union building in New York has often been remarked, though the -Havana edifice is the more ornate and attractive of the two." /></a> -</p> - -<p>The interdependence of produce and transportation is well illustrated in -the early history of what is now known as the United Fruit Company. In -1870, Captain Lorenzo D. Baker was in command of a small, swift coasting -schooner en route from Jamaica to Boston. On<a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a> the wharf at Kingston -lay some 40 bunches of bananas, a few of which were ripe, others lacking -10 days or more in which to change their dull green coats into the soft -creamy yellow of the matured fruit. Captain Baker was fond of bananas, -and ordered that the lot be placed on board his schooner, just before -sailing. Fortune favored him and strong easterly beam winds brought him -into the harbor of Boston in 10 days, with all of the bunches not -consumed en route in practically perfect condition. Many friends of -Capt. Baker, to whom this delicious fruit was practically unknown, got a -taste of the banana for the first time. Among these was Andrew W. -Preston, a local fruit dealer in Boston, who was greatly impressed with -the appearance of the fruit, and the success which had attended Captain -Baker’s effort to get the bananas into the market without injury.</p> - -<p>Mr. Preston reckoned that if a schooner with a fair wind could land such -delicious fruit in Boston in ten days, steamers could do the same work -with absolute certainty in less time. This far sighted pioneer and -promoter of trade realized that three factors were essential to building -up an industry of this kind. First, there must be a market for the -product, and he was confident that the people of Boston and the vicinity -could soon be educated to like the banana and to purchase it if offered -at a fair price. Next, a sufficient and steady supply must be provided. -Third, reliable transportation in the form of steamers of convenient -size and suitable equipment must be secured, in order to convey the -fruit with economy and regularity to the waiting market or point of -consumption. True, he at first failed to interest other fruit dealers in -the project. “It had never been done and consequently was a dangerous -innovation that would probably prove unprofitable.” But Mr. Preston had -visualized a new industry on a large scale, and with the faith of the -industrial pioneer he finally succeeded in persuading nine of his -friends to put up with him each $2,000, and to form a company for the -purpose of growing bananas in the West<a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a> Indies, of chartering a steamer -suitable for the transportation, and finding a market for the produce in -Boston.</p> - -<p>The details were worked out carefully and the first cargo purchased in -Jamaica and landed in New England proved a decided success. During the -first two or three years the accruing dividends were invested in fruit -lands in Jamaica and everything went well. Not long after, however, it -was found that a West Indian cyclone could destroy a banana field and -put it out of business in a very few hours. More than one field or -locality in which to grow bananas on a large scale was necessary to -provide against the possible failure of the crop at some other point.</p> - -<p>In the meantime another broad minded and determined pioneer in the world -of progress, Minor C. Keith, a youth of 23, was trying to build a -railroad some 90 miles in length from Puerto Limon to the capital, San -Jose, in the highlands of Costa Rica. The greater part of this road was -through dense jungle and forest almost impenetrable, with nothing in the -shape of freight or passengers from which revenues could be derived -until the road was completed to the capital. Mr. Keith had a concession -from the Costa Rican Government, but the Government had no funds with -which to aid the builder in his enterprise, and this young engineer, -through force of character and moral suasion, kept his two thousand -workmen in line without one dollar of money for over 18 months. Food he -managed to scrape up from various sources, but the payday was -practically forgotten. In the meantime, some banana plants were secured -from a plantation in Colombia, and set out on the virgin soils along the -roadway through which Mr. Keith was laying his rails. These grew -marvellously, and not only supplied fruit for the Jamaica negroes -engaged in the work, but soon furnished bananas for export to New -Orleans, and thus was started a rival industry to that of Mr. Preston, -on the shores of the Western Caribbean.</p> - -<p>It was not long before Mr. Keith, who struggled for<a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a> 20 years to -complete his line from the coast to the capital of Costa Rica, came into -contact with Mr. Preston. These captains of industry realized the -advantages of co-operation, and in a very short time organized the -United Fruit Company, which is probably the greatest agricultural -transportation company in the world to-day. Its various plantations -include lands in Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Honduras, Guatemala and -Jamaica. Large plantations of bananas belonging to the company were -until recently on the harbors of Banes and Nipe, on the north coast of -Oriente, in the Island of Cuba, but these were subjected to strong -breezes from the northeast that whipped the leaves and hindered their -growth. Then too, it was soon discovered that these lands were better -adapted to the cultivation of sugar cane, hence bananas of the United -Fruit Company disappeared from the Nipe Bay district, to be replaced by -sugar plantations that to-day cover approximately 37,000 acres and in -1920 will reach 50,000 acres. Over 200,000 acres on the coast of the -Caribbean are devoted to the cultivation of bananas. About 30,000 head -of cattle are maintained as a source of food for the thousands of -laborers, mostly Jamaicans, who are employed in the fields of the United -Fruit Company, which comprise an aggregate of 1,980,000 acres; while 743 -miles of standard gauge railway, together with 532 miles of narrow gauge -roads, are owned and operated throughout the various plantations.</p> - -<p>In the year 1915, 46,000,000 bunches of bananas were shipped by the -United Fruit Company from the shores of the Caribbean to the United -States, while the sugar plantations owned by the Company on the north -coast of Oriente Province, in Cuba, produced sugar in 1918 that yielded -a net return of $5,000,000.</p> - -<p>In order to provide transportation for this enormous agricultural output -this company to-day owns and operates one of the biggest fleets of -steamships in the world. Forty-five of these ships, with tonnages -varying from 3,000 to 8,000, especially equipped for the banana trade,<a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a> -and with the best of accommodations for passengers, have an aggregate -tonnage of 250,000; while 49 other steamers were chartered by the -company before the war, making the total tonnage employed in the -carrying trade approximately half a million.</p> - -<p>Nearly all these steamers, which connect the coast of the Caribbean with -New York, Boston and New Orleans, touch, both coming and going, at the -City of Havana, thus giving that port the advantage of unexcelled -transportation facilities, and connecting Cuba not only with the more -important cities of the Gulf of Mexico, New York and New England, but -also with Jamaica, Caribbean ports, and the South American Republics -lying beyond the Isthmus of Panama, along the western shores of that -continent.</p> - -<p>No steamship line perhaps has been more closely related to the -commercial development of Cuba than has the New York & Cuba Mail -Steamship Company. This line had its origin in a carrying trade between -Cuba and the United States started by the firm of James E. Ward & Co. -The members of the firm were Mr. James E. Ward, Mr. Henry B. Booth and -Mr. Wm. T. Hughes. The Company was incorporated under the laws of the -State of New York and formally organized in July, 1881, with Mr. Ward as -President, Mr. Booth as Vice President and Mr. Hughes as Secretary and -Treasurer. When first organized the Company had only four ships, the -<i>Newport</i>, <i>Saratoga</i>, <i>Niagara</i> and <i>Santiago</i>, with a gross tonnage of -10,179. Between the date of its organization and its transfer to the -Maine Corporation, or during a period of 26 years, the company acquired -19 vessels, with a total gross tonnage of 84,411. In addition to the -above the company has operated under foreign flags eight other ships -aggregating a tonnage of 26,624.</p> - -<p>The four original steamers mentioned above were owned in part by the -builders, Messrs. John Roach & Son, and a few other individuals. The -original firm<a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a> however sold its ships to the Company at the time of its -reorganization. Of the vessels acquired by the company, the majority -were built under contract by Messrs. Roach & Son, and Wm. Cramp & Sons’ -Ship and Engine Building Company. Among the ships that were purchased -and not built especially for this company, were the two sister ships -<i>Seguranca</i> and <i>Vigilancia</i>, built in 1890 for the Brazil Line. The -steamships <i>City of Washington</i> and <i>City of Alexandria</i> were originally -owned by the Alexandria Line, and passed into the hands of the Ward Line -after its organization. The <i>Matanzas</i>, formerly the Spanish steamer -<i>Guido</i>, that had left London with a valuable cargo of food, munitions -and money with which to pay off Spanish troops in Cuba, was captured by -the American forces during the early part of the war with Spain, in an -attempt to run the blockade that had been established, and was -afterwards sold by the American Government to the Ward Line.</p> - -<p>The business of this company, after its organization, began with a -passenger and freight service connecting the cities of Havana, Santiago -and Cienfuegos with New York. With the acquisition of the Alexandria -Line, the service of the company was extended to Mexico, and a number of -ports have been added to its itinerary both in Cuba and in Mexico. The -line to-day maintains a service on each of the following routes: New -York to Havana and return; New York to Havana, Progreso, Yucatan, and -Vera Cruz, returning via Progreso and Havana to New York; New York to -Tampico, Mexico, calling occasionally on return voyages at other ports -when cargoes are offered; New York to Guantanamo, Santiago, Manzanillo -and Cienfuegos, returning according to the demands of shipping -interests; New York to Nassau, in the Bahamas, Havana, and return. The -sailings average about five a week and schedules are prepared from time -to time to meet the requirements of trade. Passengers on this line are -carried in three distinct classes, first cabin,<a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a> intermediate, and -steerage, the vessels being constructed with reference to suitable -accommodations for the various classes.</p> - -<p>The principal railway and other connections are as follows: At New York -in general with all railroads terminating at that port, as well as all -foreign and domestic water lines that move traffic via that port; at -Havana with the United Railways of Havana and the Cuba Railroad; at -Tampico with the Mexican Central Railway for interior points in Mexico; -at Progreso with the United Railways of Yucatan for Merida, Campeche and -other interior points; at Vera Cruz with the National Railways of Mexico -and the Interoceanic Railroad for interior points of Mexico, as well as -with the Vera Cruz and Pacific Railroad for interior points of Mexico -and the Pacific Coast; at Puerto Mexico with the Tehuantepec National -Railway, for points on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and on the Pacific -Coast. Connection is also made at Vera Cruz with the Compañia Mexicana -de Navegacion for traffic to Tuxpam, Coatzacoalcos, Tlacotalpam and -Frontera, ports on the Gulf of Mexico. At Santiago connection is made -with the Cuba Eastern Railway and Cuba Railroad for points throughout -the interior of Cuba; at Guantanamo with the Cuba Eastern Railway and at -Cienfuegos with the Cuban Central Railroad.</p> - -<p>The company has contracts with the United States Government for the -transportation of mails between New York and Havana, and between New -York, Havana and Mexico. It also has a contract with the Bahamas -Government for the transportation of mails.</p> - -<p>The following is a list of the vessels owned or operated by the company.<a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td>Steamers:</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Havana</i></td><td align="left"><i>Matanzas</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Saratoga</i></td><td align="left"><i>Antilla</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Mexico</i></td><td align="left"><i>Camaguey</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Morro Castle</i></td><td align="left"><i>Santiago</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Esperanza</i></td><td align="left"><i>Bayamo</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Monterey</i></td><td align="left"><i>Manzanillo</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Segurancia</i></td><td align="left"><i>Yumuri</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Vigilancia</i></td><td align="left"><i>Guantanamo</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Seneca</i></td><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Tugs and Steam Lighters:</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Colonia</i></td><td align="left"><i>Auxiliar</i> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Nautilus</i></td><td align="left"><i>Comport</i> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Neptuno</i></td><td align="left"><i>Edwin Brandon</i> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <i>Hercules</i></td><td align="left"> </td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The total gross tonnage of the steamers and tugs above mentioned is -84,000 tons.</p> - -<p>One of the oldest and most important lines in the carrying trade of the -Caribbean is known as the Munson Steamship Line, and was founded in 1872 -by Walter D. Munson. The trade began with sailing vessels but the -increase in traffic was so great that these were soon replaced with -steamers. The steamships in the service of the Munson Line to-day number -140, with an average tonnage of 2,500 tons each, dead weight.</p> - -<p>These vessels sail from nearly every port in Cuba, connecting the Island -with nearly all of the Atlantic and Gulf Coast ports of the United -States. The passenger steamers of the Munson Line ply between New York, -Nuevitas and Nipe Bay of the Province of Oriente. The passenger -steamers, although not touching at Havana, are equipped for the -accommodation of passengers that leave from the ports of the eastern -provinces of the Island.</p> - -<p>During the late European War twelve of the Munson steamships were placed -in the service of the United States and three under the British flag.</p> - -<p>The Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company operates a daily -passenger, mail and freight service between Havana and Key West, -Florida. Since 1912 this company has maintained practically a daily -service between the two ports and maintains also a bi-weekly service -between Havana and Port Tampa, Florida. Owing to the frequency of the -sailings, the P. & O. SS. Co. is considered<a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a> the official mail route -between the United States and Cuba.</p> - -<p>The company operates also the Florida East Coast Car-Ferry freight -service between Havana and Key West. This service was made possible by -the extension of the Florida East Coast Railroad from the southern -points of the peninsula out over the long line of keys that terminates -in the Island of Key West.</p> - -<p>The erection of this viaduct, built at an enormous expense, of stone and -concrete, was the realization of Henry W. Flagler’s dream of modern -transportation facilities between the United States and Cuba. The car -ferry service was inaugurated in January, 1915. At the present time two -of these great car ferryboats, with a capacity of 28 standard freight -cars each, make a round trip every twenty-four hours between the two -ports. These two vessels transport approximately 1,150 cars in and out -of Cuba every month, carrying over 35,000 tons each way in that length -of time.</p> - -<p>Since the inauguration of the service more business has been offered -than can be handled during certain months of the year, and it has been -found necessary to refuse large quantities of cargo destined for the -Republic of Cuba. The advantage of this service to the Cuban fruit and -vegetable growers has been very great, since they are enabled to load in -the Cuban fields freight cars belonging to almost every line in the -United States, so that this produce may be shipped direct, without -breaking bulk, to any market in the United States.</p> - -<p>In the year 1870 the Pinillos Izquierdo Line of steamers was established -between Spain and the Island of Cuba. The home office of this line is in -Cadiz, Spain. Their vessels are engaged in freight and passenger service -touching at the following points in the Peninsula: Barcelona, Palma de -Majorca, Valencia, Alicante, Malaga, Cadiz, Vigo, Gijon and Santander.</p> - -<p>En route the Canary Island and Porto Rico are also visited while the -terminal points on this side of the Atlantic<a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a> are New Orleans, -Galveston, Havana and Santiago de Cuba. All of their steamers carry -mail. Their fleet consists of nine steamers with a combined tonnage of -78,000 tons as follows:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:.8em;"> -<tr><td>Infanta Isabel</td><td align="right">16,500 tons</td><td align="right">2000 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cadiz</td><td align="right">10,500 tons</td><td align="right">1500 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Barcelona</td><td align="right">10,500 tons</td><td align="right">1500 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Valbanera</td><td align="right">10,500 tons</td><td align="right">1500 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Catalina</td><td align="right">8,000 tons</td><td align="right">1000 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Martin Sáena</td><td align="right">5,500 tons</td><td align="right">800 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Balmes</td><td align="right">6,500 tons</td><td align="right">800 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Conde Wifredo</td><td align="right">5,500 tons</td><td align="right">800 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td>Miguel M. Pinillos</td><td align="right">4,500 tons</td><td align="right">500 passengers</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right" class="bt">78,000 tons</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The Southern Pacific, originally known as the Morgan line, established a -transportation service between Gulf ports and the Island of Cuba many -years ago, beginning with two side-wheel walking-beam steamboats of -about 800 tons dead weight. They were heavy consumers of coal and had a -speed of from 9½ to 11 knots. A few years later the steamers -<i>Hutchinson</i> and <i>Arkansas</i>, both side wheelers, were added to the -fleet. Still later the single propeller steamers <i>Excelsior</i> and -<i>Chalmette</i>, of about 2,400 tons each, were placed in the service of the -Southern Pacific Line. These combined freight and passenger boats were -well built and seaworthy fourteen knot steamers, of an equipment -considered modern at that time. The <i>Louisiana</i> entered the service in -1900, but owing to an error in loading freight, it turned turtle at the -docks in New Orleans and became a total loss. The <i>Excelsior</i> and -<i>Chalmette</i> are still maintaining an efficient weekly service between -New Orleans and Havana.</p> - -<p>The <i>Compagnie General Transatlantique</i>, generally known as the French -Line, connecting western France, Northern Spain and the Canary Islands, -with Cuba, Porto Rico, Vera Cruz, Mexico, and the city of New Orleans, -was established in 1860.</p> - -<p>St. Nazaire on the Bay of Biscay in France is the headquarters<a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a> of this -line. Their steamers touch at Santander and Coruña on the north coast of -Spain; at the Canary Islands, Porto Rico, Martinique, Santiago de Cuba, -Havana, Vera Cruz, and New Orleans. Their fleet consists of 13 ships -with a combined tonnage of 153,500 tons.</p> - -<p>The steamship <i>Lafayette</i>, of 15,000 tons, is equipped for the -accommodation of 1,620 passengers. The <i>Espana</i>, of 15,000 tons, carries -1,500 passengers; the <i>Flanders</i>, of 12,000 tons, carries 1,250 -passengers; the <i>Venizia</i>, of 12,000 tons, carries 700 passengers; the -<i>Navarre</i>, of 10,000 tons, carries 1,000 passengers; the <i>Venezuela</i>, of -7,000 tons, carries 500 passengers.</p> - -<p>The <i>Caroline</i>, the <i>Mississippi</i> and the <i>Georgie</i> are each steamers of -13,000 tons. The <i>Honduras</i> is a 12,000 ton ship; the <i>Hudson</i> 11,000 -tons; the <i>Californie</i> 10,500 tons, and the <i>Virginie</i> 10,000 tons. The -seven last mentioned vessels carry cargo only.</p> - -<p>During August, 1919, the 7,000 ton steamer <i>Panama Canal</i> arrived in -Cuba from Japan, inaugurating a new steamship line between Japan and the -United States, touching at Cuban ports. The line is known as the Osaka -Shosen Kaisha, of Osaka, Japan. The fleet consists of 186 steamers -plying between Japan and different parts of the world. The headquarters -for this company has been established at Chicago, Illinois, owing to -connections that have been made with the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul -Railroad.</p> - -<p>Steamers eastward bound from Japan will bring rice and general cargo, -most of which will be consigned to the Island of Cuba, owing to the -heavy consumption of that article of food in that Republic. New Orleans -will be the terminus in the United States of the line. On the initial -trip of the <i>Panama Canal</i> 50,000 sacks of rice grown in Japan were -consigned to Cuban merchants in Santiago de Cuba and Cienfuegos. The -return cargoes will be composed largely of cotton, taken aboard at New -Orleans, and with sugar and tobacco shipped from Cuba to the Orient. -This line has begun with one sailing each<a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a> way per month, all steamers -touching at Havana for freight and passengers.</p> - -<p>The Customs regulations of Cuba require five sets of invoices for Havana -and four for all other points; which must be written in ink, in either -English or Spanish. If they are typewritten the original imprint must be -included, but the others may be carbon copies. Invoices must give the -names of shippers and consignees, and of vessels; marks and numbers, -description of merchandise, gross and net weights by metric system, -price, value, and statement of expenses incurred. If there are no -expenses, that fact must be stated. Prices must be detailed, on each -article, and not in bulk. Descriptions of merchandise must be detailed, -telling the materials of each article and of all its parts. Descriptions -of fabrics must tell the nature of the fibre, character of weave, dye, -number of threads in six square millimeters, length and width of piece, -weight, price, and value. All measurements must be in metric units.</p> - -<p>At the foot of each sheet of the invoice must be a signed declaration, -in Spanish, telling whether the articles are or are not products of the -soil or industry of the United States. If the manufacturer or shipper is -not a resident of the place where the consulate is situated, he must -appoint in writing a local agent to present the invoice and the agent -must write and sign a declaration concerning his appointment. Stated -forms are prescribed and are furnished by consuls for manufacturers, -producers, owners, sellers and shippers.</p> - -<p>Freight charges to the shipping port, custom house and statistical fees, -stamps, wharfage and incidental expenses must be included in the -dutiable value of goods, and must be stated separately; but insurance -and consular fees must not be included.</p> - -<p>Each invoice must cover a single, distinct shipment, by one vessel to -one consignee. Separate consignments must not be included in one -invoice. Invoices under $5, covering products of the soil or industry of -the United<a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a> States must be certified in order to enjoy the provisions of -the reciprocity treaty between the two countries. Invoices and -declarations must be written on only one side of the paper, and no -erasures, corrections, alterations or additions must be made, unless -stated in a signed declaration.</p> - -<p>Domestic and foreign merchandise from the United States must be -separately invoiced. Invoices are not required on shipments of foreign -goods of less value than $5.</p> - -<p>Fabrics of mixed fibres must be so stated, with a statement of the -proportion of the principal material, upon which the duty is to be -computed. Cotton goods pay duty according to threads, and silk and wool -ad valorem. Samples of cotton goods are taken at the custom house, and -should be provided for that purpose to avoid mutilation of the piece. -Duties on ready made clothing are based on the chief outside fabric. A -surtax of 100% is placed on ready-made cotton clothing, and a surtax of -30% on colored threads.</p> - -<p>Two copies of each set of bills of lading must be given, but on -merchandise of less than $5 value need not be certified.</p> - -<p>Invoices covering shipments of automobile vehicles must state maker, -name of car, style of car, year of make, maker’s number on motor, number -of cylinders, horse power, and passenger capacity.</p> - -<p>If after an invoice has been certified it or any part of it is delayed -in shipment, the steamship company must mark on the bill of lading -opposite the delayed goods “Short Shipped,” but the invoice need not be -recertified. The consignee should, however, be informed.</p> - -<p>The list of articles admitted into Cuba free of duty comprises samples -of fabrics, felt, and wall paper, of a prescribed size, samples of lace -and trimmings, and samples of hosiery, provided that they are rendered -unfit for any other purpose than that of samples; trained animals, -animals, portable theatres, and other articles for public<a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a> -entertainment, not to remain in Cuba longer than three months; -receptacles in which fruits or liquids were exported from Cuba and which -are being returned empty; furniture, clothing and other personal -property of immigrants, or of travellers, showing evidence of having -already been used; agricultural implements not including machinery; and -pictures, posters, catalogues, calendars, etc., not for sale but for -free distribution for advertising purposes.</p> - -<p>The importation into Cuba is forbidden or restricted of foreign coins of -anything but gold, save those of the United States; gunpowder, dynamite -and other explosives, save by special permit of the Interior Department; -and silencers for firearms. Arms of more than .32 caliber, .44 caliber -revolvers, and automatic pistols require special permit.</p> - -<p>Consular fees for certification are: On shipments worth less than $5, -nothing; from $5 upward and less than $50, fifty cents; from $50 upward -and less than $200, $2; over $200, $2 plus ten cents for each $100 or -fraction thereof. Extra copies of invoices, 50 cents each. Invoice -blanks, ten cents a set. Certifying bills of lading, $1.</p> - -<p>Cuban consulates are situated in the United States and its possessions -as follows: Atlanta, Ga.; Baltimore, Md.; Boston, Mass.; Brunswick, Ga.; -Chattanooga, Tenn.; Chicago, Ill.; Cincinnati, Ohio.; Detroit, Mich.; -Fernandina, Fla.; Galveston, Tex.; Gulfport, Miss.; Jacksonville, Fla.; -Kansas City, Mo.; Key West, Fla.; Los Angeles, Cal.; Louisville, Ky.; -Mobile, Ala.; New Orleans, La.; New York; Newport News, Va.; Norfolk, -Va.; Pascagoula, Miss.; Pensacola, Fla.; Philadelphia, Penn.; San -Francisco, Cal.; Savannah, Ga.; St. Louis, Mo.; Tampa, Fla.; Washington, -D. C.; and Aguadilla, Arecibo, Mayagues, Ponce, and San Juan, Porto -Rico.<a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXXVI<br /><br /> -AMERICAN COLONIES IN CUBA</h2> - -<p>A<small>MERICAN</small> soldiers returning to the United States at the conclusion of -her little war with Spain, in the summer of 1898, brought wonderful -stories of Cuba, with glowing accounts of her climate, her rainfall, her -rich soil and natural advantages. Schemes for the colonization of the -Island were immediately formed and some of them put into effect during -the early days of the Government of Intervention.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, most of these enterprises originated with speculators, -and so-called land-sharks, who sought only to secure large tracts of -territory, at the smallest possible cost, and with the assistance of -attractive literature place them on the market in the United States, at -prices which would enable them, even when sold on the installment plan -to make a thousand percent or more profit on the capital invested.</p> - -<p>This method of settling up the country would not have been so -objectionable had the promoters of the schemes taken the pains to locate -their colonies in those sections of the Island where transportation -facilities, if not immediately available, could at least be reasonably -sure in the near future.</p> - -<p>Up to the present, a logical, common sense plan in the colonization in -this Island has in no instance been carried out. On the contrary, every -American colony that has yet been established in Cuba, and her adjacent -Islands, has been located with disregard to the first essentials of -success. These hapless experiments have met with a fate that was -inevitable and in most instances can be described with one word -“Failure.<a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a>”</p> - -<p>The first American Colony in Cuba was started on Broadway, New York -City, by a land speculator, who, through correspondence, learned of a -large property that could be had in Cuba with a small cash payment, at -what seemed to be a ridiculously low price; in other words at about 80 -cents an acre. An option was secured on several thousand acres, the -larger part of which, perhaps, was available for general agricultural -purposes. But the location with reference to transportation facilities -was one of the most unfortunate that could have been selected. This -colony was called La Gloria, and while La Gloria has not been a failure, -nothing in the world has saved it but the pluck, and persistent and -intelligent effort of a courageous and most commendable community of -Americans.</p> - -<p>Some 800 of these, not knowing where they were going, other than that it -was somewhere in Cuba, were dumped by a chartered steamer in the harbor -of Nuevitas, 40 miles from their destination. This they afterwards -reached with the aid of light draft schooners, or shallow, flat-bottom -boats, pushed through a muddy ditch some three or four miles, and as -many more over sand shoals, where the passengers were compelled to get -out and wade. Worse than all, when finally landed on the south shore of -Guajaba Bay, they were obliged to wade through a swamp for another five -miles, in mud knee-deep, or more, in order to reach the high ground on -which they were to make their future homes in a foreign land.</p> - -<p>Many of these colonists, disappointed and deceived, failed to stand the -strain, and those who had the necessary funds, or could borrow, returned -disgusted to their homes in the United States. Others, after studying -the soil and noting the splendid growth of forest and vegetation, lulled -into resignation by soft, cool breezes from the Atlantic Ocean, and the -bright sunshine that seldom missed a day, made up their minds to stick -to the game and to see it out, which they did.</p> - -<p>Their efforts in the end were crowned with a certain<a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a> degree of success, -and the near future holds out to them the promise of fairly satisfactory -transportation for their fruit, vegetables and other products, to -profitable markets, both in Cuba and the United States.</p> - -<p>The colony of La Gloria in the fall of 1918 contained about 75 families -and comprised, all told, probably 500 people. This estimate includes the -little nearby settlements of Guanaja, Punta Pelota, Columbia, Canasi, -The Garden, and other little suburbs or groups of families, scattered -throughout the district.</p> - -<p>With the Cubans, the people of La Gloria have always maintained the most -friendly relations, while mutual esteem and respect is the rule of the -district. The Mayor of La Gloria, a Cuban, was elected by popular vote, -and is highly esteemed in the community as a man who has been always an -enthusiastic and efficient supporter of the interests of the colony. -Seventy per cent of the population is American. La Gloria has always -been fortunate in having a good school in which both Spanish and English -are taught.</p> - -<p>The town itself is located on the northern edge of the plateau, or rise -of ground overlooking the savanna that separates it from the bay. A -fairly good road some five miles in length, built at Government expense, -connects the town with the wharf, whence, up to the winter of 1918, all -produce was sent for shipment to the harbor of Nuevitas some forty miles -east by launch.</p> - -<p>The streets are very wide, shaded with beautiful flowering flamboyans, -and the houses, many of them two stories in height, are built of native -woods, cedar, mahogany, etc., products of the saw mills of the -neighborhood. These, as a rule, are kept painted, and the general -appearance of the town, although not bustling with business, is one of -comfort, cleanliness and thrift.</p> - -<p>It is not an exaggeration to state that there is no little town in -conservative New England where less of waste, or disfiguring material, -even in back yards, or rear of houses, can be found, than in the little -town of La Gloria.<a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a> The furnishing of most of the houses consists of a -strange mingling of articles of comfort brought from home, combined with -other things that have been improvised and dug out of their tropical -surroundings.</p> - -<p>A mistake, made in the early days of La Gloria, and one common to every -American colony in the West Indies, has been the exclusive dedication of -energy, effort and capital to the growth of citrus fruit. The first -essential factor to the success of a colony in any climate is food, and -forage for animals. This, in nearly every American town in Cuba, has -been ignored, every effort being expended on the planting and promotion -of a citrus grove from which no yield could be expected inside of five -or six years, and during which time, many a well meaning farmer has -become discouraged or has exhausted his capital, leaving his grove in -the end to be choked up with weeds and ruined by the various enemies of -the citrus family. However, the people of La Gloria planted and stuck to -their orange trees and many of these, today, are yielding very -satisfactory returns, in spite of the serious lack of transportation.</p> - -<p>The best land belonging to the colony is located in the district known -as Canasi, some three miles south of the town, in the direction of the -Cubitas Mountains. There are 600 acres in this section devoted to -oranges and grape fruit, all of which have been well cared for and are -increasing in value each year.</p> - -<p>The citizens of the colony have joined forces and built a well equipped -packing plant, 100 feet in length by 30 feet in width, from which, last -year, were shipped 432,000 loose oranges, and 9,200 boxes of grape -fruit, the latter going to the United States by the way of Nuevitas. All -of this fruit at the present time is hauled by wagon, some eight or nine -miles to the wharf, on the bay, whence it is conveyed to the harbor of -Nuevitas for sale and shipment.</p> - -<p>La Gloria’s hope of really satisfactory transportation facilities is -vested in the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, and her dream of suitable -connections with the outside<a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a> world of trade will soon be realized. La -Gloria has many things to commend it, aside from soil and climate. One -of these is excellent drinking water, found at an average depth of -twenty feet. The soil on which the town is built is largely impregnated -with iron ore, which forms a splendid roadbed, and enables the -population to escape the seas of mud that are rather common throughout -the interior, excepting along macadamized roads.</p> - -<p>Most vegetables, with the exception of potatoes, may be grown throughout -the entire year in La Gloria, and a variety of potato adapted to that -peculiar soil will probably be found in the near future. A serious -mistake common not only in La Gloria but in nearly all other colonies in -Cuba has been neglect in sowing forage plants and thus providing for -live stock, so essential to the success of any farming district.</p> - -<p>That which is most to be admired in La Gloria, is the class of people -who form the backbone of the colony, and who certainly came from -excellent stock, proved by their successful efforts in overcoming -difficulties that would have discouraged a less persevering community. -The colony supports a weekly newspaper, and holds annual agricultural -fairs that are a credit to the district.</p> - -<p>The second and most serious experiment in colonization in Cuba was -staged in the Isle of Pines. In the year 1900 this intrepid storm -sentinel of the Caribbean offered several advantages for a successful -exploitation of the American public. In spite of the fact that this -Island had always formed an integral part of Cuba, it was advertised -throughout the United States as American property, and the flag raised -by the Government of Intervention was pointed to as a permanent asset of -that particular section.</p> - -<p>Again the promoters of this pretentious colonization scheme absolutely -ignored the basic principles of success in colony work. In other words -they did not take into account that not only was the Isle of Pines -devoid of a first-class harbor, but that the chances of securing direct<a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a> -transportation between that section and the United States was decidedly -remote.</p> - -<p>Through the hypnotic influence of beautifully worded advertisements and -attractive pictures, large numbers of settlers from the United States -and Canada, especially from Minnesota and the Dakotas, were tempted to -locate in the Isle of Pines, or to purchase property, usually on the -installment plan, which they had never seen, and for which they paid -exorbitant prices.</p> - -<p>Tracts that cost from 90¢ to $1.20 per acre, were divided into 10, 20 -and 40 acre farms, and sold at prices ranging from $25 in the beginning -up to $75 and even $100 per acre in 1918. These prices have always been -out of proportion to the quality of the soil, and the location of the -land, since lands far more fertile, and within easy reach of steamers -leaving Havana daily, might have been found on the mainland of Cuba, -that would give the prospect of a fair chance of success in almost any -agricultural undertaking.</p> - -<p>Here again the prospective settler was advised to start citrus fruit -groves, to the exclusion of forage and other crops from which immediate -returns would have encouraged the farmer, and permitted him to live -economically while making up his mind as to the advisability of citrus -fruit culture, which is a specialized form of horticulture, requiring -much technical knowledge, and a great deal of experience to insure -satisfactory results.</p> - -<p>In the Isle of Pines, as in La Gloria, while many men have been -disappointed, and many families have left the country in despair, there -still remains a nucleus of hard working, intelligent and enterprising -men who, in spite of the disadvantages that will surround them, have -made for themselves comfortable homes, and who enjoy the quiet, dreamy -life that soon becomes essential to the man who remains long in the -tropics.</p> - -<p>The Isle of Pines ships a considerable amount of fruit and vegetables -each year, through Havana, to markets in the United States. How often -the balance may be found<a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a> on the profit side of the ledger, however, is -open to question. The Isle of Pines undoubtedly offers an excellent -retreat for those who have become tired of the strenuous life of cities, -and who prefer to pass the remainder of their days in pleasant, -healthful surroundings. To do this, of course, requires an income that -will insure them against any little petty annoyance that might come from -a disturbing cyclone, or a low price for grape fruit in northern -markets.</p> - -<p>The enterprising promoters connected with the early colonization of the -Isle of Pines made a second experiment at Herradura, in the Province of -Pinar del Rio, 90 miles from the city of Havana by rail. Here they -purchased some 22,000 acres of land in 1902, paying, it is said, an -average price of a dollar an acre, and started the third American colony -in Cuba under the name of Herradura.</p> - -<p>In the colonization work, the old La Gloria and Isle of Pines method of -advertising was faithfully followed, and with results eminently -satisfactory to the promoters, most of whom have acquired comfortable -fortunes, at the expense of Americans and Canadians in the United States -who were anxious to find homes where they could enjoy life and perhaps -prosper in the Tropics.</p> - -<p>The larger part of the Herradura tract, especially that which lay along -the Western Railroad, was a light sandy soil, used by the natives in the -olden days for grazing cattle, and burned over every winter, thus -destroying nearly all of the humus in the land. This property was -divided into 40-acre tracts and sold at $20 per acre. As soon as the -settlers from the United States began to arrive in any numbers, the -price was advanced to $40. Citrus fruit was held out to prospective home -seekers as the surest means of securing an easy life and a fortune after -the first four or five years.</p> - -<p>Under favorable conditions, where all the essential elements to success -are combined, this is possible. But Herradura did not combine all of the -required features,<a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a> hence hundreds of acres of abandoned groves can be -seen along the railroad track for miles, as one enters the Herradura -district. The cyclone of 1917 which added the last straw to the -proverbial camel’s back, in the Isle of Pines, swept across the western -end of Pinar del Rio Province also, and only those groves that had been -provided with wind-breaks escaped from blight and ruin in the hurricane.</p> - -<p>Today there are about 25 families, with perhaps 100 inhabitants, -remaining in the colony of Herradura. Some of these settlers, men of -experience, who came from the citrus grove districts of Florida, and -others who took up general farming on the better lands, some two or -three miles north of the railroad, have succeeded, and have built for -themselves comfortable homes where rural life is enjoyed to the utmost.</p> - -<p>Some of them have their machines with which they can motor over a -splendid automobile drive to Havana, and spend a few days in the -capital, during the opera season. Nearly all of them have a few saddle -horses that furnish splendid exercise and amusement for the younger -members of the colony. One of the successful old timers of Herradura is -Mr. Earle, formerly chief of the Government Experimental Station at -Santiago de Las Vegas, a scientific farmer and a good business man. Mr. -Earle located on good land in a little valley well back from the road, -planted 40 acres in citrus fruit and has succeeded where others failed.</p> - -<p>On all lands where irrigation is possible, the growing of vegetables, -especially peppers and egg plants, has proven very satisfactory. The -average number of crates per acre is 350, and a dollar per crate net is -the estimated average profit. The irrigation comes either from wells or -little streams.</p> - -<p>The raising of pigs and poultry has helped greatly all those farmers of -Herradura who had the foresight not to neglect the live stock and -poultry end in their farming enterprises.<a name="page_398" id="page_398"></a></p> - -<p>The price of fairly good land in Herradura today is from $25 to $50 per -acre. The successful owner of a well cared for citrus grove in this -colony values it at $1,500 per acre. The freight on fruit and vegetables -from Herradura to the city of Havana over the Western Road, is ten cents -per box.</p> - -<p>The colony boasts of a very comfortable school house, which also serves -as a church and town hall. The old standbys, as they call themselves, -seldom complain of their lot, and could hardly be induced to change or -seek homes in other localities.</p> - -<p>There are some half dozen American and Canadian colonies in the Province -of Oriente, most of them scattered along the line of the Cuba Company’s -railroad that has brought the interior of that province into contact -with the seaports of Antilla, on the north coast, and Santiago de Cuba -on the south. The colony of Bartle is the westernmost, located about -fifty miles from the borderline between that province and Oriente.</p> - -<p>The Bartle tract consisted originally of 5,000 acres, 3,000 of which lie -north of the railroad and the remainder extending toward the south. Most -of the land is covered with a heavy forest of hard woods and the work of -clearing is a serious proposition, although the soil, once freed from -stumps, is exceptionally rich and productive. Less than 2,000 acres have -been cleared up to the present, and some three or four hundred have been -planted in citrus fruit. Good water is found at a depth of 25 feet.</p> - -<p>There are approximately 200 permanent residents in this little -settlement, which has been laid out to advantage with its Plantation -House, hotel, church, stores, etc., and a very neat railway station. The -buildings are nearly all frame, painted white with green trimmings. In -Bartle, as in all colonial settlements in Cuba up to the present, the -planting of citrus fruit seems to have been the aim and ambition of the -settlers, who are about evenly divided between Canadians and Americans.<a name="page_399" id="page_399"></a></p> - -<p>Just south of Bartle are a number of small estates on land that belonged -to the late Sir Wm. Van Horne, father of the Cuba Company Railroad.</p> - -<p>Twenty miles further east a colony has been established at Victoria de -las Tunas, one of the storm centers of the various revolutionary -movements on the part of the Cubans against Spanish control. There are -some 800 or 900 acres of citrus fruit groves, in various stages of -production, within a radius of fifteen miles surrounding the town of -Victoria de las Tunas. In nearly all of the American and Canadian -colonies in the Province of Oriente, settlers have learned, at times -through bitter experience, that it was an economical mistake to devote -all of their energies to the production of citrus groves that could give -them no returns inside of five years, and that, with the exception of -the local markets of Camaguey, Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba, neither -oranges nor lemons would bring a sufficient price to pay for the cost of -packing, transportation and sale. Grape fruit usually yielded a profit, -if the market happened to be just right; or in other words, if competing -shipments from Florida and California did not lower the price below the -margin of profit.</p> - -<p>Twenty-two miles still further east we find the colony of Omaja, -boasting a population of nearly 300 people, most of whom are Americans, -although a number are from England and Canada. A small group of hard -working Finlanders, too, have joined their fortunes with the settlers of -Omaja. The surrounding country is quite attractive, and was at one time -a huge cattle ranch, covering some 50,000 acres of land, divided between -heavy forests and open savannas.</p> - -<p>Omaja has the usual complement of post-office, school-house, churches -and stores, with a sufficient variety of creeds to satisfy almost any -community. Some 700 or 800 acres of citrus fruit have been planted in -Omaja, about one-half of which is grape-fruit and Valencia<a name="page_400" id="page_400"></a> oranges. -Omaja has an encouraging amount of social and musical activity which -lightens the more serious burdens of life in the colony.</p> - -<p>Some 30 miles north of Santiago de Cuba, and 50 miles south of Antilla, -the shipping point on Nipe Bay, are two small colonies only a few miles -apart known as Paso Estancia and Bayate. There are some 40 or 50 -permanent settlers in Paso Estancia, Americans, Canadians and English. -They have made clearings in the thick virgin forests and made for -themselves comfortable and rather artistic little homes; frame buildings -covered with zinc roofs, perched on hillsides, convenient to swift -running streams.</p> - -<p>The “Royal Palm” Hotel, a cement building, furnishes accommodations for -newcomers and guests. The view from the hotel, looking across a -delightful panorama of forest covered hills and valleys, gives a certain -lasting charm to the vicinity.</p> - -<p>The settlers of this section evidently were advised of the mistakes made -in other parts of the Island, and while the growing of citrus fruits -seems to have been the main object, food products, corn, vegetables, -coffee, cacao, cattle, hogs and forage were not neglected.</p> - -<p>A few miles south is the colony of Bayate, settled very largely by -Swedish Americans, whose programme has been quite a departure from that -of other colonists in Cuba. Their children are being taught Spanish in -the schools so that they may bring their parents more closely in contact -with their Spanish speaking neighbors. There are approximately 200 -settlers in this community, most of whom have devoted their energies to -growing sugar cane, for which the land in the neighborhood is -excellently adapted. The Auza mill, twelve miles further down the -railroad, buys all of the cane they can raise, giving them in exchange -5½ lbs. of sugar for every 100 pounds of cane. There is a very decent -little hotel, built of mahogany and cedar, furnishing accommodations to -guests who may happen to stop.<a name="page_401" id="page_401"></a></p> - -<p>Bayate has its school house, for which the Cuban Government furnishes -two teachers, one of whom teaches in Spanish and the other in English. -Most of the settlers have their own cows, pigs and an abundance of -chickens. Some of them are planting coffee and cacao on the hill sides. -Two crops of corn may be easily grown in this section, and nothing -perhaps in Cuba, brings a better price, especially in the western end of -the Island.</p> - -<p>It would seem quite probable that general farming will eventually take -the place of the citrus fruit grove in Cuba, as a source of permanent -income and profit. The demand for sugar, brought about by the European -War, greatly increased the acreage of cane, and has undoubtedly saved -many American colonies, especially those of Oriente, from economical -disaster.</p> - -<p>It is to be hoped that the Cuban Government, in the future, may be -induced to provide some kind of supervision over projected colonies in -regard to the selection of localities, the character of soil, and the -election of agricultural undertakings which will insure success. It is -the desire of the Government that all homeseekers, if possible, may find -life in Cuba both pleasant and profitable, and only in some such way can -the mistakes of colonization in the past be avoided.</p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<p class="cb"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">Agramonte</span>, General Eugenio Sanchez, Secretary of Agriculture, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><a name="A" id="A"></a>Agriculture</span>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">typical rural home view, <a href="#page_145">145</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natural advantages of soil and climate, <a href="#page_145">145</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Department of Agriculture, <a href="#page_148">148</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Division of Agriculture, <a href="#page_148">148</a>; of Commerce, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Veterinary Science and Animal Industry, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Forestry and Mines, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Trade Marks and Patents, <a href="#page_150">150</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Meteorology, <a href="#page_150">150</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Immigration, Colonization and Labor, <a href="#page_150">150</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Game and Bird Protection, <a href="#page_151">151</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Publicity and Exchanges, <a href="#page_152">152</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Experiment Station, <a href="#page_153">153</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">breeding live stock, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruits and vegetables, <a href="#page_156">156</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">combatting insects and diseases, <a href="#page_157">157</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“black fly,” <a href="#page_157">157</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">See <span class="smcap">Grains</span>, <span class="smcap">Grass</span>, <span class="smcap">Fruit</span>, <span class="smcap">Vegetables</span>, <span class="smcap">Stock-Raising</span>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">American Colonists</span>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">deluded by speculators, <a href="#page_391">391</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ill-chosen sites, <a href="#page_391">391</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">La Gloria, <a href="#page_392">392</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">relations with the Cubans, <a href="#page_392">392</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">increasing and assured prosperity for those who persevere, <a href="#page_393">393</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Isle of Pines, <a href="#page_394">394</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Herradura, Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_396">396</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bartle, <a href="#page_398">398</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Victoria de las Tunas, <a href="#page_399">399</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Omaja, <a href="#page_399">399</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Paso Estancia and Bayate, <a href="#page_400">400</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -American Legation at Havana, <a href="#page_298">298</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Animals</span>, Indigenous, <a href="#page_257">257</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the hutia, <a href="#page_257">257</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sandhill crane, <a href="#page_258">258</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">guinea fowl, <a href="#page_258">258</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">turkey, <a href="#page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quail, <a href="#page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">buzzard, <a href="#page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sparrow hawk, <a href="#page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mocking bird, <a href="#page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pigeons, <a href="#page_259">259</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">parrots, <a href="#page_260">260</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tody, <a href="#page_260">260</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orioles, <a href="#page_260">260</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lizard cuckoo, <a href="#page_261">261</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trogon, <a href="#page_261">261</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flamingo, <a href="#page_262">262</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sevilla, <a href="#page_262">262</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ani, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">See <span class="smcap">Poultry</span>, <span class="smcap">Stock Raising</span>, <span class="smcap">Bees</span>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Asphalt and Petroleum</span>:, <a href="#page_126">126</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early discovery of pitch, <a href="#page_126">126</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">observations of Alexander von Humboldt, <a href="#page_127">127</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Havana Province, <a href="#page_128">128</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Matanzas, <a href="#page_128">128</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_129">129</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">many wells sunk, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, et seq.</span><br /> -Atkins, Edward F., Sugar promoter, <a href="#page_177">177</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="B" id="B"></a>Banking.</span> See <span class="smcap">Money and Banking</span>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Bees</span>, for honey and wax, <a href="#page_280">280</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">exceptional facilities for culture, <a href="#page_281">281</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trade in wax, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.</span><br /> -Birds. See <span class="smcap">Animals</span>.<br /> -Botanic Gardens, <a href="#page_301">301</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="C" id="C"></a>Cacao</span>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for food and drink, <a href="#page_234">234</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">varieties, <a href="#page_236">236</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">culture, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Camaguey</span> Province, <a href="#page_071">71</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">history, <a href="#page_071">71</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">topography, <a href="#page_074">74</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">harbor of Nuevitas, <a href="#page_078">78</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resources and industries, <a href="#page_079">79</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">American colonies, <a href="#page_080">80</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camaguey City, <a href="#page_082">82</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chrome deposits, <a href="#page_116">116</a>.</span><br /> -Canning, opportunity for industry, in pineapples, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Cardenas</span>, City, <a href="#page_056">56</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">City Hall and Plaza, scene, <a href="#page_056">56</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Industries, <a href="#page_057">57</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mines, <a href="#page_058">58</a>.</span><br /> -Cauto River, <a href="#page_085">85</a>.<br /> -Chocolate. See <span class="smcap">Cacao</span>.<br /> -Chrome. Sec <span class="smcap">Mines and Mining</span>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Cienaga de Zapata</span>, <a href="#page_067">67</a>; plans for draining, <a href="#page_165">165</a>.<br /> -Cienfuegos, <a href="#page_065">65</a>.<br /> -Clay and Cement, <a href="#page_027">27</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Climate</span>, <a href="#page_019">19</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">equable temperature, <a href="#page_019">19</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rainfall, <a href="#page_020">20</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Havana, <a href="#page_031">31</a>.</span><br /> -Cocoa. See <span class="smcap">Cacao</span>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Coffee</span>, <a href="#page_197">197</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">origin of Cuban plantations, <a href="#page_197">197</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">many abandoned groves, <a href="#page_198">198</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">methods of culture, <a href="#page_199">199</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">profits of crop, <a href="#page_199">199</a>; marketing, <a href="#page_200">200</a>; encouragement for the industry, <a href="#page_201">201</a>.</span><br /> -Commerce. See <span class="smcap">Ocean Transportation</span>, and <span class="smcap">Railroads</span>.<br /> -Cork Palm, <a href="#page_038">38</a>.<br /> -Customs. See <span class="smcap">Ocean Transportation</span>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="D" id="D"></a>Drives</span>: A Paradise of Palm-shaded automobile highways, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roads radiating from Havana, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Matanzas, <a href="#page_328">328</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Artemisa, <a href="#page_328">328</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Candelaria, <a href="#page_329">329</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">San Cristobal, <a href="#page_329">329</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bahia Honda, <a href="#page_320">320</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">San Diego de los Banos, <a href="#page_330">330</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_331">331</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Valley of Vinales, <a href="#page_331">331</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mariel, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">radiating from Matanzas, <a href="#page_335">335</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cardenas, <a href="#page_336">336</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cienfuegos, <a href="#page_336">336</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Trinidad, <a href="#page_336">336</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">radiating from Santa Clara, <a href="#page_337">337</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camaguey, <a href="#page_337">337</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santiago, <a href="#page_337">337</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">among Mountains of Oriente, <a href="#page_338">338</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="F" id="F"></a>Forestry</span>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">great number and variety of trees, <a href="#page_135">135</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">alphabetical list of sixty leading kinds, with characteristics of each, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, et seq.;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">location of timber lands, <a href="#page_142">142</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extent, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Fruits</span>: Aguacate, <a href="#page_228">228</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">varieties, <a href="#page_229">229</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for salads, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Anon, or sugar apple, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bananas, the world’s greatest fruit, <a href="#page_219">219</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">methods of use, <a href="#page_219">219</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">grown for commerce, <a href="#page_220">220</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">soil and cultivation, <a href="#page_221">221</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">varieties, <a href="#page_222">222</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">possibilities of the crop, <a href="#page_223">223</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chirimoya, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Citrus fruits, <a href="#page_211">211</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">orange groves, <a href="#page_212">212</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">discretion and care needed in culture, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">varieties of oranges, <a href="#page_215">215</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">grape fruit, <a href="#page_217">217</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">limes, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Figs, <a href="#page_228">228</a>. Grapes, <a href="#page_232">232</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">experiments with various kinds, <a href="#page_233">233</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">wine-making, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Guava, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mamey, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mamoncillo, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mango, foremost fruit of Cuba, <a href="#page_203">203</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">the Manga, <a href="#page_204">204</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">varieties and characteristics, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, et seq.;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">for both fruit and shade, <a href="#page_209">209</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">fruit vender in Havana, scene, <a href="#page_209">209</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pineapples, <a href="#page_224">224</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">soil and culture, <a href="#page_224">224</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">profits of crop, <a href="#page_225">225</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">varieties, <a href="#page_225">225</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">for canning, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sapodilla, see Zapote.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tamarind, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Zapote, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="G" id="G"></a>Grain</span>: Indian corn, <a href="#page_248">248</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kaffir corn, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">millet, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wheat, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, <a href="#page_250">250</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">opportunities for rice culture, <a href="#page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Grasses and Forage Plants</span>: Parana grass, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bermuda grass, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">alfalfa, <a href="#page_253">253</a>; cow peas, <a href="#page_254">254</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beans, <a href="#page_255">255</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peanuts, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</span><br /> -Guantanamo, <a href="#page_089">89</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="H" id="H"></a>Harbors</span>: Havana, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mariel, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cabanas, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bahia Honda, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cienfuegos, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nuevitas, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nipe, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Guantanamo, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santiago, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Matanzas, <a href="#page_343">343</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cardenas, <a href="#page_344">344</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sagua, <a href="#page_344">344</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Caibarien, <a href="#page_344">344</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manati, <a href="#page_345">345</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Puerto Padre, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Banes, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cabonico and Levisa, <a href="#page_347">347</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sagua de Tanamo, <a href="#page_347">347</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baracoa, <a href="#page_347">347</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manzanillo, <a href="#page_349">349</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Batabano, <a href="#page_350">350</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Minor</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">harbors, <a href="#page_350">350</a>, et seq.</span><br /> -Hawley, Robert B., Sugar promoter, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Havana</span>, City: history, <a href="#page_303">303</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">famous streets and buildings, 304 et seq.;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">modern development of city and suburbs, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">El Vedado, <a href="#page_308">308</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">places of Interest, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">National Theatre, <a href="#page_310">310</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Prado, <a href="#page_310">310</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">parks, <a href="#page_211">211</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colon Cemetery, <a href="#page_311">311</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Municipal Band and other musical organizations, <a href="#page_312">312</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Conservatory of Music, <a href="#page_312">312</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drives, <a href="#page_313">313</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bathing beaches, <a href="#page_313">313</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Havana Yacht Club, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fishing, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jai Alai, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baseball, <a href="#page_316">316</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horse racing, <a href="#page_317">317</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">golf, <a href="#page_317">317</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Templete, <a href="#page_317">317</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the Maestranza, <a href="#page_318">318</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Department of Sanitation, <a href="#page_318">318</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">La Hacienda, <a href="#page_319">319</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">old Governor-General’s palace, <a href="#page_319">319</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Senate Chamber, <a href="#page_320">320</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“General Wood Laboratory,” <a href="#page_321">321</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">School of Industrial Arts and Sciences, <a href="#page_322">322</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Academy of Sciences and Fine Arts, <a href="#page_322">322</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">President’s Palace, <a href="#page_322">322</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">new Capitol, <a href="#page_324">324</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">National Hospital <a href="#page_325">325</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">See <span class="smcap">Places of Historical Interest</span>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Havana</span>, Province: topography, <a href="#page_021">21</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Valley of the Guines, <a href="#page_023">23</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tobacco region, <a href="#page_024">24</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forests, <a href="#page_025">25</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">agriculture and horticulture, <a href="#page_026">26</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">industries, <a href="#page_027">27</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">harbor of Havana, <a href="#page_028">28</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water supply, <a href="#page_030">30</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate, <a href="#page_031">31</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Henequen</span>: world-wide importance, <a href="#page_053">53</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brought from Yucatan, <a href="#page_190">190</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first plantation, <a href="#page_191">191</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">International Harvester Company’s plantation, <a href="#page_191">191</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">possibilities of extension of the industry, <a href="#page_192">192</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">advantages of soil and climate, <a href="#page_193">193</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">estimates of cost and profit, <a href="#page_195">195</a>.</span><br /> -Himely, H. A., estimates Sugar crop, <a href="#page_166">166</a>.<br /> -Holguin, <a href="#page_093">93</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="I" id="I"></a>Iron</span>. See <span class="smcap">Mines and Mining</span>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="M" id="M"></a>Magotes</span>, <a href="#page_014">14</a>.<br /> -Manganese. See <span class="smcap">Mines and Mining</span>.<br /> -Manzanillo, <a href="#page_092">92</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Matanzas</span> Province: Topography, <a href="#page_049">49</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drainage system, <a href="#page_049">49</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yumuri River and Valley, <a href="#page_051">51</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resources, <a href="#page_052">52</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">henequen and sisal, <a href="#page_053">53</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Matanzas City, <a href="#page_054">54</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Caves of Bellamar, <a href="#page_055">55</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cardenas, <a href="#page_056">56</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mines, <a href="#page_058">58</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sugar, <a href="#page_058">58</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chrome, <a href="#page_116">116</a>.</span><br /> -Menocal, Mario G., Sugar promoter, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Mines and Mining</span>: Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_047">47</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Matanzas, <a href="#page_058">58</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oriente, <a href="#page_096">96</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early search for gold, <a href="#page_104">104</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Copper: El Cobre mines, <a href="#page_105">105</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">near Havana, <a href="#page_106">106</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Bayamo, <a href="#page_107">107</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Matanzas, <a href="#page_108">108</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Santa Clara, <a href="#page_108">108</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Camaguey, <a href="#page_108">108</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_109">109</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">American interests in, <a href="#page_109">109</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Matahambre mines, <a href="#page_110">110</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Iron, in Oriente, <a href="#page_111">111</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Camaguey, <a href="#page_112">112</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_112">112</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">nickeliferous ores, <a href="#page_112">112</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">statistics of shipments of iron and copper ores, <a href="#page_112">112</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manganese, in Oriente, Pinar del Rio and Santa Clara, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">analysis of ore, <a href="#page_123">123</a>; output, <a href="#page_124">124</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chrome, in Havana, Matanzas, Camaguey and Oriente, <a href="#page_115">115</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">United States Geological Survey’s prospects, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">many rich deposits, 117 et seq.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Money and Banking</span>: Early monetary systems, <a href="#page_361">361</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">double standard adopted, <a href="#page_363">363</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stabilization under American occupation, <a href="#page_363">363</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">present standard and unit, <a href="#page_364">364</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">statistics, <a href="#page_364">364</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">list of principal banks of Cuba, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="O" id="O"></a>Ocean Transportation</span>: United Fruit Company, origin of, <a href="#page_376">376</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lorenzo D. Baker and Andrew D. Preston, <a href="#page_377">377</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Minor C. Keith’s Costa Rica railroad, <a href="#page_378">378</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">development of world’s greatest agricultural transportation company, <a href="#page_379">379</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">magnitude of its fleet, <a href="#page_379">379</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">New York and Cuba Mail Company, origin and development of, <a href="#page_380">380</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ward, Alexandria and other lines merged, <a href="#page_381">381</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extent of service, 381 et seq.;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its fleet, <a href="#page_382">382</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Munson Steamship Line, <a href="#page_383">383</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extent of its service, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company, <a href="#page_383">383</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its great ocean and railroad ferry from Havana to Key West, <a href="#page_384">384</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pinillos Izquiendo Line, between Cuba and Spain, <a href="#page_384">384</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its large fleet, <a href="#page_385">385</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Southern Pacific, formerly Morgan, Line, <a href="#page_385">385</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">French Line, <a href="#page_385">385</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its fleet, <a href="#page_386">386</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Japanese Line, Osaka Shosen Kaisha, <a href="#page_386">386</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Customs regulations, <a href="#page_387">387</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">invoices, <a href="#page_387">387</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">consular fees, <a href="#page_389">389</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuban consulates in United States and its territories, <a href="#page_389">389</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Organ</span> Mountains, <a href="#page_013">13</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Oriente</span> Province: Topography, <a href="#page_083">83</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">picture of mountain road, <a href="#page_084">84</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rivers, <a href="#page_085">85</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sugar, <a href="#page_086">86</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Guantanamo, <a href="#page_089">89</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santiago, <a href="#page_089">89</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resources and industries, <a href="#page_095">95</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mines, <a href="#page_096">96</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iron, <a href="#page_110">110</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chrome and manganese, <a href="#page_117">117</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="P" id="P"></a>Packing Houses</span>, opportunity for, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.<br /> -“Paradise of Palm Drives,” <a href="#page_326">326</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">People of Cuba</span>: Their hospitality and other traits, <a href="#page_001">1</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">domestic habits, <a href="#page_002">2</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">racial descent, <a href="#page_003">3</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gallegos and Catalans, <a href="#page_005">5</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">English, <a href="#page_005">5</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Irish, <a href="#page_006">6</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Italians, <a href="#page_006">6</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Germans, <a href="#page_007">7</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Americans, <a href="#page_007">7</a>.</span><br /> -Petroleum. See <span class="smcap">Asphalt</span>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Pinar Del Rio</span> Province: Topography, <a href="#page_034">34</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Valley of Vinales, <a href="#page_036">36</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">harbors, <a href="#page_041">41</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pinar del Rio City, <a href="#page_045">45</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vuelta Abajo tobacco region, <a href="#page_045">45</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mines, <a href="#page_047">47</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Places of Historic Interest</span>, <a href="#page_284">284-302</a>:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Atares Fort, <a href="#page_300">300</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bayamo, <a href="#page_092">92</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Belen Convent and College, <a href="#page_298">298</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bellamar Caves, <a href="#page_055">55</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cabanas, la, <a href="#page_286">286</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">history, <a href="#page_286">286</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prison and place of execution, <a href="#page_287">287</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Road without Hope,” <a href="#page_287">287</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">present condition, <a href="#page_289">289</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cathedral, Havana, <a href="#page_294">294</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castillo del Principe, <a href="#page_300">300</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chorrera, la, fort, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">City Wall of Havana, <a href="#page_291">291</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cojimar fort, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Echarte mansion, <a href="#page_298">298</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fuerza, la, <a href="#page_292">292</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Institute of Havana, <a href="#page_294">294</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jesus del Monte church, <a href="#page_297">297</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Merced, la, convent, <a href="#page_296">296</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Morro Castle, Havana, <a href="#page_284">284</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Punta, la, <a href="#page_290">290</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Quinto de Molinos, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">San Augustin convent <a href="#page_296">296</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">San Francisco church and convent, <a href="#page_295">295</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santa Catalina convent, <a href="#page_296">296</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santa Clara convent, <a href="#page_297">297</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santa Teresa church, <a href="#page_297">297</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santo Angel church, <a href="#page_297">297</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santo Domingo church and convent, <a href="#page_293">293</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Torreon de la Playa, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Torreon de la San Lazaro, <a href="#page_300">300</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Twelve Apostles,” at El Morro, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Poultry</span>: Varieties, <a href="#page_278">278</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Turkeys, <a href="#page_279">279</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Guinea hens, <a href="#page_279">279</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Public Instruction</span>: Backward state under Spanish rule, <a href="#page_367">367</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">progress under American occupation, <a href="#page_368">368</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alexis E. Frye, Superintendent, <a href="#page_368">368</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lincoln de Zayas, <a href="#page_368">368</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">great aid from Harvard University, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">schools placed under National government, <a href="#page_370">370</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Miss Abbie Phillips, General Superintendent of English, <a href="#page_370">370</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Dominguez Roldan, Secretary of Public Instruction, <a href="#page_371">371</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">increase in schools and school attendance during President Menocal’s administration, <a href="#page_371">371</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“School of the Home,” <a href="#page_372">372</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Institute of Havana, <a href="#page_372">372</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">National University, <a href="#page_373">373</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">National School of Languages, <a href="#page_373">373</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">National Public Library, <a href="#page_374">374</a>.</span><br /> -Puerto Principe. See <span class="smcap">Camaguey</span>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="R" id="R"></a>Railroads</span>: First railroad on Spanish soil in Cuba, <a href="#page_353">353</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">United Railways of Havana, <a href="#page_353">353</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Matanzas Railway, <a href="#page_354">354</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extension of system, <a href="#page_354">354</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">electric lines, <a href="#page_354">354</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sir William Van Horne’s great work, <a href="#page_355">355</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuba Company’s line and branches, 356 et seq.;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">work of R. G. Ward in building and equipping Cuba Company’s lines, <a href="#page_358">358</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuba Central road and branches, <a href="#page_359">359</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">North Shore road, <a href="#page_360">360</a>.</span><br /> -Rionda, Don Manuel, Sugar promoter, <a href="#page_173">173</a>.<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="S" id="S"></a>Santa Clara</span> Province:<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">History, <a href="#page_060">60</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mountains, <a href="#page_062">62</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rivers, <a href="#page_064">64</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cienfuegos, <a href="#page_065">65</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sancti Spiritus, <a href="#page_066">66</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cienaga de Zapata,<a href="#page_067">67</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">resources and industries, <a href="#page_068">68</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">coffee, <a href="#page_069">69</a>.</span><br /> -Santiago, <a href="#page_089">89</a>.<br /> -Schools. See <span class="smcap">Public Instruction</span>.<br /> -Shipping. See <span class="smcap">Ocean Transportation</span>.<br /> -Sisal. See <span class="smcap">Henequen</span>.<br /> -Sponges, extent of industry, <a href="#page_283">283</a>.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Sports</span>: Automobiling, 326 et seq.;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bathing beaches, <a href="#page_313">313</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">yachting, <a href="#page_314">314</a>; fishing, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jai Alai, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baseball, <a href="#page_316">316</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horse racing, <a href="#page_317">317</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">golf, <a href="#page_317">317</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Stock Raising</span>: Horses introduced into Cuba, <a href="#page_263">263</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">recent importations from the United States, <a href="#page_263">263</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">breeds and numbers, <a href="#page_264">264</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mules, <a href="#page_265">265</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cattle, <a href="#page_265">265</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">importations, <a href="#page_266">266</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">choice breeding, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crossing with the zebu, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">advantages of Cuba for stock raising, <a href="#page_268">268</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swine, <a href="#page_269">269</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">advantages for hog raising, <a href="#page_270">270</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">palmiche and yuca for hog food, <a href="#page_271">271</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">varieties of swine, <a href="#page_272">272</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">opportunity for packing plants in hog products, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sheep, for food, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Goats, for meat, skins and hair, <a href="#page_274">274</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Angoras, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">profits, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Sugar</span>: In Matanzas, <a href="#page_058">58</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Santa Clara, <a href="#page_068">68</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camaguey, <a href="#page_079">79</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oriente, <a href="#page_086">86</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">El Chaparra and Las Delicias, <a href="#page_086">86</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bay of Nipe, <a href="#page_087">87</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">magnitude of crop, <a href="#page_160">160</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">favorable natural conditions, <a href="#page_161">161</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reports and estimates of available lands, 161 et seq.;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">possible output, <a href="#page_164">164</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plans for draining swamp lands, <a href="#page_164">164</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cienaga de Zapata, <a href="#page_165">165</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mr. R. G. Ward’s projects, <a href="#page_166">166</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mr. H. A. Himely’s estimates of crop, <a href="#page_166">166</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">methods of planting and cultivation, <a href="#page_167">167</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">the labor problem, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Administration” and “Colono” systems, <a href="#page_170">170</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuba Cane Sugar Corporation, <a href="#page_173">173</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuban-American Sugar Company, <a href="#page_175">175</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rionda Sugar Properties, <a href="#page_176">176</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">United Fruit Company’s Sugar Properties, <a href="#page_177">177</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Atkins Sugar Properties, <a href="#page_177">177</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Poté Rodriguez Sugar Properties, <a href="#page_178">178</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">West Indies Sugar Finance Corporation, <a href="#page_178">178</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gomez-Mena Properties, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuba Company Properties, <a href="#page_180">180</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mendoza-Cunaga Properties, <a href="#page_180">180</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cuba’s relation to the world’s supply of sugar, <a href="#page_181">181</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="T" id="T"></a>Tobacco</span>: Tumbadero, in Havana, <a href="#page_024">24</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vuelta Abajo, Pinar del Rio, <a href="#page_045">45</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">early history, <a href="#page_183">183</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">profits of crop, <a href="#page_184">184</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">method of growing, <a href="#page_184">184</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">various regions of growth, <a href="#page_186">186</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">insect pests, <a href="#page_186">186</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">growing under cheesecloth, <a href="#page_187">187</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">magnitude of industry, <a href="#page_188">188</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Topography</span>, of Cuba: Mountain systems, <a href="#page_010">10</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sierra Maestra, <a href="#page_011">11</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">El Yunque, <a href="#page_011">11</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sierras Cristal and Nipe, <a href="#page_012">12</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Najassa Hills, <a href="#page_012">12</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sierra Cubitas, <a href="#page_013">13</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sierra del Escambray, <a href="#page_013">13</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sierras Morena, and de Bamburano, <a href="#page_013">13</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sierra de los Organos, <a href="#page_013">13</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vinales Valley, <a href="#page_014">14</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Magotes, <a href="#page_014">14</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plains, <a href="#page_016">16</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="V" id="V"></a>Vanilla</span>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">growth and preparation for market, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Vegetables</span>: Beans, Lima and string, <a href="#page_244">244</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egg plant, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Okra, <a href="#page_244">244</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Peppers, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potatoes, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pumpkins, <a href="#page_245">245</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Squashes, <a href="#page_245">245</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomatoes, <a href="#page_243">243</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="W" id="W"></a>Ward</span>, R. G., plans for draining Cienaga de Zapata, <a href="#page_166">166</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railroad construction and equipment, <a href="#page_358">358</a>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap"><a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Yumuri</span> River and Valley, <a href="#page_051">51</a>.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_map_cuba_left_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_map_cuba_left_sml.jpg" width="480" height="791" alt="Map of Cuba" /></a> -<a href="images/ill_map_cuba_right_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_map_cuba_right_sml.jpg" width="472" height="789" alt="Map of Cuba" /></a> - -</p> - -<p><a name="page_410" id="page_410"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center">so that it can <span class="errata">product</span>=> so that it can produce {pg vii}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">The shores of Mariel are <span class="errata">beautfiul</span>=> The shores of Mariel are beautiful {pg 41}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">at the southern end of the Bat=> at the southern end of the Bay {pg 41}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">aferwards</span> was led=> afterwards was led {pg 61}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">on the <span class="errata">party</span> of=> on the part of {pg 80}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Mexican <span class="errata">revoultions</span>=> Mexican revolutions {pg 191}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">they should <span class="errata">fear</span>=> they should bear {pg 207}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">any woman <span class="errata">whose</span> chose to devote=> any woman who chose to devote {pg 297}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">the installment <span class="errata">plant</span>=> the installment plan {pg 395}</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The History of Cuba, vol. 5, by -Willis Fletcher Johnson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HISTORY OF CUBA, VOL. 5 *** - -***** This file should be named 41267-h.htm or 41267-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/6/41267/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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