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diff --git a/41153-0.txt b/41153-0.txt index 9f306b5..5f660f9 100644 --- a/41153-0.txt +++ b/41153-0.txt @@ -1,36 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Spell of Switzerland, by Nathan Haskell Dole - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Spell of Switzerland - -Author: Nathan Haskell Dole - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41153] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND *** - - - - -Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41153 *** +---------------------------------------------------------+ | | @@ -13002,366 +12970,4 @@ Author’s spelling and punctuation retained. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Spell of Switzerland - -Author: Nathan Haskell Dole - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41153] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND *** - - - - -Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - +---------------------------------------------------------+ - | | - | THE SPELL SERIES | - | | - | | - | _Each volume with many illustrations from original | - | drawings or special photographs. Octavo, with | - | decorative cover, gilt top, boxed._ | - | | - | _Per volume $2.50 net, postpaid $2.70_ | - | | - | THE SPELL OF ITALY | - | By Caroline Atwater Mason | - | | - | THE SPELL OF FRANCE | - | By Caroline Atwater Mason | - | | - | THE SPELL OF ENGLAND | - | By Julia de W. Addison | - | | - | THE SPELL OF HOLLAND | - | By Burton E. Stevenson | - | | - | THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND | - | By Nathan Haskell Dole | - | | - | THE SPELL OF THE ITALIAN LAKES | - | By William D. McCrackan | - | | - | _In Preparation_ | - | | - | THE SPELL OF THE RHINE | - | By Frank Roy Fraprie | - | | - | L. C. PAGE & COMPANY | - | 53 BEACON STREET, BOSTON, MASS. | - +---------------------------------------------------------+ - - - [Illustration: _Evening near Saas-Fee_ [_See page 369_]] - - - - - _The_ Spell _of_ Switzerland - - _BY_ - _Nathan Haskell Dole_ - - - ILLUSTRATED - from photographs and original paintings by - _Woldemar Ritter_ - - _Publishers_ - =L. C. PAGE & COMPANY= - BOSTON MDCCCCXIII - - - _Copyright, 1913, by_ - L. C. PAGE & COMPANY - (INCORPORATED) - - Entered at Stationers' Hall, London - - _All rights reserved_ - - First Impression, October, 1913 - - THE COLONIAL PRESS - C. H. SIMONDS & CO., BOSTON, U. S. A. - - - - -PREFACE - - -The present book is cast in the guise of fiction. The vague and -flitting forms of my niece and her three children are wholly figments -of the imagination. No such person as "Will Allerton" enters my -doorway. The "Moto," which does such magical service in transporting -"Emile" and his admirers from place to place is as unreal as Solomon's -Carpet. - -After Lord Sheffield and his family had started back from a visit to -Gibbon at Lausanne, his daughter, Maria T. Holroyd, wrote the -historian: "I do not know what strange charm there is in Switzerland -that makes everybody desirous of returning there." It is the aim of -this book to express that charm. It lies not merely in heaped-up -masses of mountains, in wonderfully beautiful lakes, in mysterious -glaciers, in rainbow-adorned waterfalls; it is largely due to the -association with human beings. - -The spell of Switzerland can be best expressed not in the limited -observations of a single person but rather by a concensus of -descriptions. The casual traveller plans, perhaps, to ascend the -Matterhorn or Mount Pilatus; but day after day may prove unpropitious; -clouds and storms are the enemy of vision. One must therefore take the -word of those more fortunate. Poets and other keen-eyed observers help -to intensify the spell. These few words will explain the author's -plan. It is purposely desultory; it is not meant for a guide-book; it -is not intended to be taken as a perfectly balanced treatise covering -the history in part or in whole of the twenty-four cantons; it has -biographical episodes but they are merely hints at the richness of -possibilities, and if Gibbon and Tissot and Rousseau stand forth -prominently, it is not because Voltaire, Juste Olivier, Hebel, Töpfer, -Amiel, Frau Spyri, and a dozen others are not just as worthy of -selection. One might write a quarto volume on the charms of the Lake -of Constance or the Lake of Zürich or the Lake of Lucerne. Scores of -castles teem with historic and romantic associations. It is all a -matter of selection, a matter of taste. It is not for the author to -claim that he has succeeded in conveying his ideas, but whatever -effect his work may produce on the reader, he, himself, may, without -boasting, claim that he is completely under the spell of Switzerland. - NATHAN HASKELL DOLE. - - BOSTON, October 1, 1913. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER - - PREFACE - I. UNCLE AND NIECE - II. JUST A COMMON VOYAGE - III. A ROUNDABOUT TOUR - IV. HOME AT LAUSANNE - V. GIBBON AT LAUSANNE - VI. AROUND THE LAKE LEMAN - VII. A DIGRESSION AT CHILLON - VIII. LORD BYRON AND THE LAKE - IX. A PRINCESS AND THE SPELL OF THE LAKE - X. THE ALPS AND THE JURA - XI. THE SOUTHERN SHORE - XII. GENEVA - XIII. SUNRISE AND ROUSSEAU - XIV. THE CITY OF ROUSSEAU AND CALVIN - XV. FAMOUS FOLK - XVI. THE ASCENT OF THE DÔLE - XVII. A FORMER WORKER OF SPELLS - XVIII. TO CHAMONIX - XIX. A DETOUR TO ZERMATT - XX. THE VALE OF CHAMONIX - XXI. HANNIBAL IN SWITZERLAND - XXII. ZÜRICH - XXIII. AT ZÜRICH WITH THE PROFESSOR - XXIV. ON THE SHORES OF LAKE LUCERNE - XXV. LAUSANNE AGAIN - BIBLIOGRAPHY - INDEX - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - EVENING NEAR SAAS-FEE (_in full colour_) - MAP OF SWITZERLAND - IN THE ENGADINE VALLEY (_in full colour_) - THE ALPENGLOW ON THE JUNGFRAU - A WINTERTHUR STOVE - A SWISS CHÂTEAU - THE CATHEDRAL, LAUSANNE - LAUSANNE AND THE SAVOY MOUNTAINS - LA DENT DU MIDI FROM MONTREUX - LAKE LEMAN AT VEVEY - THE CASTLE OF CHILLON - THE PRISON OF BONIVARD IN THE CASTLE OF CHILLON - MONT BLANC - THE CASTLE OF CHÂTELARD AND THE SAVOY ALPS - ALPINE HERDSMEN - THE LIVING-ROOM OF AN ALPINE CASTLE (_in full colour_) - THE WATERFRONT AND THE ILE ROUSSEAU, GENEVA - SWISS MEDIAEVAL CARVINGS - LES GRANDES JORASSES - ACROSS LAKE LEMAN - FRIBOURG - BARKS ON LAKE LEMAN - ALONG THE SHORE OF LAKE LEMAN - THE SAVOY ALPS FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF LAKE LEMAN - "ALL THE MIGHTY VALLEYS OF THE ALPS WERE FILLING WITH MISTS" - MONT BLANC AND THE VALLEY OF CHAMONIX - THE VALLEY OF THE RHÔNE AT MARTIGNY - PISSEVACHE CASCADE - LE MONT CERVIN - MONTE ROSA - THE NEEDLE OF THE MATTERHORN - ON THE GLACIER - "JAGGED NEEDLES AND PINNACLES OF CRUEL ROCK" - "THE SNOW WAS DEEP ON THE MOUNTAINS" - THE HOSPICE OF THE GREAT ST. BERNARD - THE CASTLE OF NEUCHÂTEL - AN OLD STREET IN BERN - A RAINY DAY IN ZÜRICH - THE URNER LOCH - THE KINZIG PASS - THE KLÖNTALERSEE - THE FALLS OF THE RHINE - THE FRAUMÜNSTER - THE QUAINT STATUE OF CHARLEMAGNE - RAPPERSWYL - SERTIZ DÖRFLI (_in full colour_) - LUCERNE AND MOUNT PILATUS - ON THE LAKE OF LUCERNE - "THE MUSIC OF THE COWS' BELLS" - THE STAUBBACH - A STREET IN THUN - CHÂTEAU VOLTAIRE, FERNEY - WRESTLING AT A VILLAGE FESTIVAL - - -[Illustration: SWITZERLAND] - - - - -THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND - - - - -CHAPTER I - -UNCLE AND NIECE - - -I must confess, I did not approve of my niece and her husband's plan -of expatriating themselves for the sake of giving their only son and -heir, and their twin girls, a correct accent in speaking French. But I -had the grace to hold my tongue. I wonder if my wife would have been -equally discreet--supposing I possessed such a helpmeet. Probably she -would not have done so, even if I had; and probably also I should not, -if she had. For the very fact of my having a wife would prove that I -should be different from what I am. - -There is an implication in this slight exhibition of boastfulness; but -it is not subtle. Any one would see it instantly--namely, that I am a -bachelor. A bachelor uncle whose niece takes it into her head to marry -and raise a family, is as deeply bereaved as he would be were he her -father. More so, indeed, for a father has his wife left to him.... - -The relationship between uncle and niece has never been sufficiently -celebrated in poetry. It deserves to be sung. Besides the high, noble -friendship which it implies, there is also about it a touch of almost -lover-like sentiment. The right-hearted uncle loves to lavish all -kinds of luxuries on his niece and feels sufficiently repaid by the -look of frank affection in her eyes, the unabashed kiss which is the -envy of young men who happen to witness it. - -Here are the facts in my case. After my brother's wife died, he urged -me to make my home at his house. I suppose I might have done so long -before; but I had been afraid of my sister-in-law. She was a tall -imperious woman; she did not approve of me at all. She could not see -my jokes, or, if she did, she frowned on them. I suppose she thought -me frivolous. She was one of those women who make you appear at your -worst. She was sincere and genuine and good, but our wireless -apparatus was not tuned in harmony. As long as she was at the helm of -my brother's establishment I preferred to enjoy less comfortable -quarters elsewhere. - -But when, as the Wordsworth line has it, "Ruth was left half desolate" -(though her father did not "take another mate"), and they showed me -how delightfully I could dispose of my library and have an open fire -on cold winter evenings, and what a perfect position was, as it were, -destined for my baby grand--for I am devoted to music--_en amateur_, -of course,--I yielded, and for ten happy years, saw Ruth grow from a -young girl into the woman "nobly planned, to warn, to comfort and -command." - -Command? What woman does not? - -At my advice she took up the violin, and I shall never forget the -hours and hours when we practised and really played mighty well--if I -do say it, who shouldn't--through the whole range of duets, beginning -with simple pieces for her immature fingers and ending with the -strange and sometimes--to me--incomprehensible fantaisies of the -super-modernists. - -But all these simple home-joys came to their inevitable end. The right -man appeared and did as the right men always have done and will do. -Uncles are as prone to jealousy as any other class of bipeds; but -here again the philosophy of life which I trust I have made evident I -cherish, and which, as one good turn deserves another, cherishes me, -enabled me to preserve a front of discreet neutrality. I may have been -over-zealous to look up the young man's record; but there was nothing -to which the most scrupulous could take exception. He was a clean, -straight, manly youth with excellent prospects. - -Will Allerton lived in Chicago; that was a second count against him, -but equally futile as a valid argument for dissuasion. After their -wedding-journey, they went to a delightful little house in East Elm -Street in Chicago. Business called me to that city two or three times, -and I visited them. So many of my friends had been unhappily -married that I was more or less pessimistic about that kind of -life-partnership; but my niece's happy home was an excellent cure for -my bachelor cynicism. The coming of their first child,--they did me -the honour of making me his godfather, though I do not much believe in -such formalities; and they also named him for me,--the coming of this -little mortal made no change other than a decided increase in the -bliss of that loving home. - -When little Lawrence was four years old, and the twins were two, his -grandfather died suddenly. It was a tremendous change to have my good -brother removed from my side. My niece and her husband came on from -Chicago. They were pathetically solicitous for my welfare. Most -insistently they urged me to come and live with them. There was plenty -of room in the house, they said. - -I was greatly touched by their generous kindness, but I set my face -sternly against any uprooting of the sort. I said I much preferred to -stay on where I was. I had consulted with my Lares and Penates and -found that they opposed any such _bouleversement_. The old housekeeper -who had looked after our comfort was still capable of doing all that -was necessary for me. My wants were few; I lived the simple life and -its cares and pleasures amply satisfied my ambition. I had a small -circle of congenial friends, particularly among my books. I did not -know what it meant to be lonely. If I needed company, I could always -fortify myself with the presence of college classmates. I had -organized a quartet of fairly capable musicians who came once or twice -a week to play chamber-music with me, and for me. I had several -protégés studying music at the conservatory and my Sunday afternoon -musicales were a factor in my satisfaction. So it was arranged that I -should make no radical change for the present, at least. I would spend -my vacations with them at the seashore, where we had a comfortable -little _datcha_, and at least once during the winter I would make them -a visit in Chicago. - -Thus passed two more years. Then out of a clear sky came the report -that my niece and her husband were going to take their young hopeful -and his sisters to Switzerland, so that he might learn to speak French -with a perfect accent! Will had a rich old aunt--a queer, misanthropic -personage, who lived the life of a hermit. She, too, took the long -journey into the Unknown and, as she could not carry her possessions -with her, they fell to her nephew. - -I saw them off, and the last word my niece said, as we parted -tenderly, was, "You must run over and make us a visit." - -I shook my head: "I am afflicted with a fatal illness. I am afraid of -the voyage." - -Her sweet face expressed such concern that I quickly added: "It is -nothing serious; but there is no hope for it--it is only old age." - -"That's just like you," she exclaimed, "and I know you do not dread -the ocean." - -"Well, we'll see," I tergiversated. "I don't believe you'll stay. -You'll miss all the American conveniences and you'll get so tired of -hearing nothing but French." - -"Nonsense!" she exclaimed. "Of course we shall stay, and of course -you'll come." - - - - -CHAPTER II - -JUST A COMMON VOYAGE - - -It was inevitable. I, who had always jestingly compared myself to a -brachypod, fastened by Fate to my native reef, and getting contact -with visitors from abroad only as they were brought by tides and -currents, began to feel the irresistible impulse to grow wings and fly -away. How could I detach my clinging tentacles? - -Every letter from Lausanne, where my dear ones had established -themselves, urged me to "run over" and make them a long visit. My room -was waiting for me. They depicted the view from its windows; splendid -sweeps of mountains, snow-clad, tinged rose-flesh tints by the -marvellous, magical kiss of the hidden sun; the lake glittering in the -breeze, or dazzlingly azure in the afternoon calm; the desk; the -comfortable, old, carved bedstead; the quaint, tiled stove which any -museum would be glad to possess. There were excursions on foot or by -automobile; mountains to climb; the Dolomites to visit. Each time -new drawings, new seductions. With each week's mail I felt the -insidious, impalpable lure. - -[Illustration: _In the Engadine Valley_ [_See page 444_]] - -[Illustration] - -I have many friends who put faith in astrology. One of my -acquaintances is making a large income from constructing horoscopes. -She is sincere; she has a real faith. She acts on the hypothesis that -from even the most distant of the planets radiate baleful or -beneficent influences which move those mortals who are, as it were, -keyed or tuned to them. Saturn, whose density is less than alcohol, a -billion miles away; Neptune, almost three billion miles away, -infinitesimal specks in the ocean of space, make men and women happy -or miserable. How much more then is it possible that the heaped-up -masses of mighty mountains may work their spell on men half-way around -this globe of ours? I began to be conscious of the Spell of -Switzerland. - -A half-crazy friend of mine, a painter, who loved mountains and -depicted them on his canvases, once broached a theory of his, as we -stood on top of Mount Adams:-- - -"The time will come," he said with the conviction of a prophet, "when -we shall be able to take advantage of the electric current flowing -from this mountain-mass to Mount Washington, yonder, and commit -ourselves safely and boldly to its control. Then we shall be able to -practise levitation. It will be perfectly easy, perfectly feasible to -leap from one peak to another." - -I am sure I felt stirring within me the impulse to leap into the air -with the certainty that I should land on top of the Jungfrau or of -Mont Blanc. It was a cumulative attraction. Every day it grew more -intense. I got from the library every book I could find about -Switzerland. I soaked myself in Swiss history. I began to know -Switzerland as familiarly as if I had already been there. - -Then came the decisive letter. My niece absolutely took it for granted -that I was coming. She said: "We will meet you at Cherbourg with the -motor. Cable." - -This time I was obedient. I wound up my affairs for an indefinite -absence. - -I took passage on a slow steamer, for I was in no hurry, and I wanted -to have time enough to finish some more reading. I wanted to know -Switzerland before I actually met her. I knew that I was destined to -love her. - -[Illustration: THE ALPENGLOW ON THE JUNGFRAU.] - -Theoretically one may understand psychology, even the psychology of -woman--_may_, I say, not insisting too categorically upon this -point, especially since the recent discovery that woman has, to her -advantage over man, a superfluous and accessory chromosome to every -cell in her dear body--one may know anatomy and physiology; but, when -one falls in love with her, all this knowledge is as nought; she -becomes, in the words of Heine, _die eine, die feine, die reine_. In -this spirit, I studied the geology of Switzerland, realizing in -advance that, as soon as I saw the Alpenglow on the peak of the -Wetterhorn or of Die Jungfrau, I should not care a snap of my finger -for the scientific constitution of the vast rock-masses, or for the -theories that explain how they are doubled over on themselves and -piled up like the folds of a rubber blanket. - -On the first day out, as I sat on the deck as far forward as possible, -I became in imagination the prehistoric ancestor of the frigate-bird, -spreading my broad wings, tireless, above the waste of that Jurassic -Sea which, only a brief geologic age ago, swept above what is now the -highest land of Europe, with its south-most boundary far away in -Africa. By the same power of the imagination I saw mighty islands -emerge from the face of those raging waters. To the imagination a -thousand or a million years is but as a wink; it can see in the -corrugated skin of a parched apple all the vast cataclysms of a -continent. Through the ages these seas deposited their strata to be -pressed into rock; those strata were upheaved and, as they became dry -land, the torrential rains, the mighty rivers, gnawed them away and -spread them out over the central plain of what is now Switzerland, and -filled the valleys of the Rhine and the Rhône and the Reuss, the Po -and the Inn and the Danube, making the plains of Lombardy and Germany, -of Belgium, of Holland and southeastern France. Almost three solid -miles, it is estimated, have been eroded and carried away from the -mountain-tops--sedimentary rocks and crystalline schists and even the -tough granite. - -As Sir John Lubbock well says, "true mountain ranges, that is to say, -the elevated portions of the earth's surface, are the continents -themselves, on which most mountain-chains are mere wrinkles." Under -enormous pressure, and as the interior of the earth gradually cooled -and shrank, the crust remaining at the same temperature, through the -force of gravity great plaques of the crust sank in and perhaps, as in -the case of mesas, left great mountain-masses, which the streams and -rivers immediately began to carve into secondary hills and valleys. -Sometimes these mountain-masses resisted pressure; "these," says Sir -John, "form buttresses, as it were, against which surrounding areas -have been pressed by later movements. Such areas have been named by -Suess 'Horsts,' a term which it may be useful to adopt, as we have no -English equivalent. In some cases where compressed rocks have -encountered the resistance of such a 'Horst,' as in the northwest of -Scotland and in Switzerland, they have been thrown into the most -extraordinary folds, and even thrust over one another for several -miles." - -Sir John, whose book, "The Scenery of Switzerland," I had with me as I -sat in my cozy nook in the bow, asserts boldly that Switzerland was -not formed, as people used to think, by upheaving forces acting -vertically from below. "The Alps," he says, "have been thrown into -folds by lateral pressure, giving every gradation from the simple -undulations of the Jura to the complicated folds of the Alps." - -Thus the strata between Bâle and Milan, a distance of one hundred and -thirty miles, would, if horizontal, occupy two hundred miles. In some -cases the most ancient portions are thrown up over more recent ones. -The higher the mountain is, however, the more likely it is to be -young; whereas low ranges are like the worn-out teeth of some ancient -dame. "The hills of Wales," says Sir John, "though comparatively so -small, are venerable from their immense antiquity, being far older, -for instance, than the Vosges themselves, which, however, were in -existence while the strata now forming the Alps were still being -deposited at the bottom of the ocean. But though the Alps are from -this point of view so recent, it is probable that the amount which has -been removed is almost as great as that which still remains. They -will, however, if no fresh elevation takes place, be still further -reduced, until nothing but the mere stumps remain." - -Now I read geology as if I understood all about it; but, five minutes -after I have put the book down, I get the ages inextricably mixed; -Eocene and Pleiocene and pre-Carboniferous and Cambrian and Silurian -are all one to me. Jurassic sounds as if it were an acid and I can not -possibly remember in which era fossils lived and impressed themselves -into the soft clay like seals on wax. - -It is tremendously interesting. When I am reading about those old -days, I have no difficulty in picturing before my mental vision a -great jungle filled with eohippuses and megatheriums and -ichthyosauruses and other monstrous creatures. When I get to Oeningen -I mean to make a study of fossils: I am told it has the richest -collection in the world. - -That night I dreamed that I stood on the highest peak of the primitive -Alps and a great earthquake shook off colossal blocks of gneiss; vast -rivers went rushing down the valleys. I awoke suddenly with a sort of -involuntary terror. It was nothing but the tail-end of a gale which -tossed the ship like a cockle-shell. The rivers were the streams of -water rushing down the deck as the ship plunged her nose into the -smothering spume of the angry sea. I slipped on my storm-coat and, -clinging to the jamb of my stateroom, gazed out on the wild scene. The -sky was clearing, and a moon, which must have been in its second -childhood--it looked so slim and young--was riding low in what I -supposed was the east; the morning star was darting among scurrying -clouds; great phosphorescent splashes of foam were flying high; the -ship was staggering like the conventional, or perhaps I should say -unconventional, drunken man. A splash of spray in my face counselled -me to retire behind my door, and I made a frantic dash for my berth, -and slept the sleep of the just the rest of the night. - -To a man free of care, without any reason for worry, in excellent -health, capable of long hours of invigorating sleep, an ocean voyage -is an excellent preparation for a season of sightseeing, of -mountain-climbing, of new experiences. - -I considered myself quite fortunate to discover on board two Swiss -gentlemen. One was a professor from the University of Zürich; the -other was an electrical engineer from Geneva. I had many interesting -talks with them about Helvetic politics and history. - -Professor Heinrich Landoldt was a tall, blond-haired, middle-aged man, -with bright blue eyes and a vivid eloquence of gesticulation. He was -greatly interested in archaeology and had been down to Venezuela to -study the lake dwellings, still inhabited, on the shores of Lake -Maracaibo. Here, in our own day, are primitive tribes living exactly -as lived the unknown inhabitants of the Swiss lakes, whose remains -still pique the curiosity of students. Painters, like M. H. Coutau, -have drawn upon their imagination to depict the kind of huts once -occupied on the innumerable piles found, for instance, at Auvergnier. -But Dr. Landoldt had actually seen half-naked savages conducting all -the affairs of life on platforms built out over the shallow waters of -their lake. Their pottery, their ornaments, their weapons, their -weavings of coarse cloth, belong to the same relative age, which, in -Switzerland, antedated history. Probably Venice began in the same way; -not without reason did the discoverer, Alonzo de Ojeda, in 1499, call -the region of Lake Maracaibo Venezuela--Little Venice. - -The same conditions bring about the same results since human nature is -everywhere the same. One need not follow the worthy Brasseur de -Bourbourg and try to make out that the Aztecs of Mexico were the same -as the ancient Egyptians simply because they built pyramids and laid -out their towns in the same hieroglyphic way. - -The presence of enemies, and the abundance of growing timber along the -shores, sufficed to suggest the plan of sinking piles into the mud and -covering them over with a flooring on which to construct the thatched -hovels. The danger of fire must have been a perpetual nightmare to -these primitive peoples, the abundance of water right at hand only -being a mockery to them. The unremitting, patient energy of those -savages, whether then or now, in working with stone implements, fills -one with admiration. Professor Landoldt had many specimens which he -intended to compare with the workmanship of the lacustrians of -Neuchâtel, Bienne and Pfäffikersee, antedating his by thousands of -years. - -He has invited me to make him a visit in Zürich and I mean to do so. -He tells me that the museum there is exceedingly rich in relics of -prehistoric peoples. Perhaps we can go together and pay our respects -to the shades of the lake-dwellers. I always like to pay these -delicate attentions to the departed. So I would gladly burn some -incense to Etruscan or Kelt, whoever first ventured out into the -placid waters of the lake--any lake, it matters not which--there are -dozens of them--and pray for the repose of their souls; they must have -had souls and who knows, possibly some such pious act might give -pleasure to them, if perchance they are cognizant of things -terrestrial. - -My electrical friend, M. Pierre Criant, was also very polite and, when -he learned that I was bound for Switzerland to spend some -months--Heaven alone knows how many--he urged me to look him up, -whenever I should reach Geneva. He would be glad to show me the great -plans that were formulating for utilizing the tremendous energy of -the Rhône. This was particularly alluring to my imagination for I have -a high respect for electrical energy. M. Criant seemed to carry it -around with him in his compact, muscular form. - -We three happened to be together one morning and I had the curiosity -to ask them, as intelligent men, what they thought of the "initiative -and referendum," which I understood was a characteristic Swiss -institution, and which a good many Americans believed ought to be -introduced into our American system of conducting affairs, as being -more truly democratic than entrusting the settlement of great -questions to our Representatives in Congress or in Legislature -assembled. I remarked that some good Americans looked to it as a cure -for all existing political evils. We adopted the Australian ballot and -it immediately worked like a charm; undoubtedly its success prepared -the way for receiving with greater alacrity a novelty which promised -to be a universal panacea. "How does it really work in Switzerland?" I -demanded. - -"In our country," replied M. Criant, "a certain number of persons have -the right to require the legislature to consider any given question -and to formulate a bill concerning it; this must be submitted to the -whole people; it is called the indirect initiative. They may also -draft their own bill and have this submitted to the whole people. This -is of course the direct initiative. Some laws cannot become -enforceable without receiving the popular sanction. This is called the -compulsory referendum. Other bills are submitted to the people only -when the petition of a certain number of citizens demand it. This is -the optional referendum. This right may apply to the whole country, or -to a Canton, or only to a municipality: the principle is everywhere -the same. Suppose an amendment to the Federal Constitution is desired. -At least fifty thousand voters must express their desire; then the -question is submitted to all the people. Again, if thirty thousand -voters, or eight of the Cantons, consider it advisable to support any -federal law or federal resolution, they must be submitted to the -popular vote; but this demand must be made within three months after -the Federal Assembly has passed upon them. Of course this does not -apply to special legislation or to acts which are urgent." - -"Has the initiative proved a working success?" I asked. - -"Well," replied Professor Landoldt, "in 1908, more than two hundred -and forty-one thousand voters carried the initiative, proposed by -almost one hundred and sixty-eight thousand signatures, against the -sale of absinthe. In the same way, locally, vivisection was partially -prohibited in my Canton in 1895. In Zürich there was a strong feeling -in the community that the public service corporations and the large -moneyed interests had altogether too much influence in the government; -even the justice of the courts was called in question, and, under the -leadership of Karl Bürkli, who was a follower of Fourier, the -initiative and referendum were adopted especially as a protest against -the high-handed autocracy of such men as Alfred Escher. It has been -principally used as a weapon against the party in power; but not -always successfully. Sometimes it has worked disastrously, as for -instance when, in November, the unjust prejudice against the Jews was -sufficiently strong to introduce into the Constitution an amendment -prohibiting the butchering of cattle according to the old Bible rite. -They professed to believe in the Bible, but not in what it says! In -this case the societies for the prevention of cruelty to animals -combined with the Jew-baiters." - -"A measure which affects me personally," said M. Criant, taking up -the theme, "but which is really in the line of progress, was passed in -1908, when by an overwhelming majority--some three hundred and five -thousand against about fifty-six thousand--the Federal Government took -over from the individual cantons the right to legislate concerning the -water resources when any national interest might be at stake. There -are such tremendous hydraulic possibilities in Switzerland that it -would be a national misfortune to have them controlled by local or by -private corporations." - -"We have the same problem in America," I remarked. "One of the -greatest and most insidious dangers threatening our people is the -Water Trust, which is already strongly intrenched behind special -privileges and protected by enormous moneyed interests. I believe the -people ought to control the natural monopolies." - -"So do I," exclaimed Professor Landoldt fervently. And he went on: "We -have recently stood fast by those principles by taking over the -railways, the last item in this tremendous business being the -acquisition, a few months ago, of the St. Gothard line which, with its -debt, has cost, or will cost, some fifty millions. It took us about -seven years to get worked up to the pitch of government ownership. -The price seemed extravagant in 1891, and the measure was defeated -more than two to one; in 1898 there was a majority of more than two -hundred thousand in favour of it; the vote brought out almost the -whole voting strength of the country. - -"The citizens of Zürich, a few years ago, refused to spend their money -in building an art-museum; but thought better of it in 1906. The truth -of the matter is, the people like to show their power; they like to -discipline their representatives, often at the expense of their own -best interests. In 1900 they turned down by a majority of nearly two -hundred thousand a Workmen's Compulsory Insurance bill which both -houses had carried with only one opposing vote. - -"The interference of the people with the finances of the cantons, or -of the cities, often works mischief. How, indeed, could they be -expected to show much wisdom in deciding on questions which even an -expert would find difficult? They are willing to reduce water-rates, -but they object to increase taxes, except on large fortunes. They will -readily authorize incurring a good big debt, but they do not like to -face the necessity of paying it, or providing for the payment of it. -As a people we are a little near-sighted; we are not gifted with -imagination." - -"I should think this popular interest in government would tend to -educate the masses," I suggested. - -"It certainly does," replied M. Criant. "Questions are discussed on -their merits and though, of course, a tricky orator may mislead, it -will not be for long." - -At this point we were interrupted, so that nothing more was said at -the time about Swiss politics. Both my friends, however, renewed their -invitations for me to be sure to look them up. It is one of the great -pleasures and advantages of travelling that one may make delightful -acquaintances. I had no intention of letting slip the opportunity of -further intercourse with men so genial and well informed as Professor -Landoldt and M. Criant. - -The voyage came to an end, as do all things earthly. Nothing untoward -happened; and we reached Cherbourg on schedule time. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -A ROUNDABOUT TOUR - - -Ruth and her husband were waiting for me. Will took charge of my -luggage. He sent my trunk by express to Lausanne. He even insisted on -paying the duties on my cigars--several boxes of Havanas. I always -smoke the best cigars, though, thank the Heavenly Powers, I am not a -slave to the habit. I suppose every man says that, if for no other -reason than to contradict his wife. - -When everything was arranged, we took our places in the handsome -French touring-car, which, like a living thing instinct with life, -proud of its shiny sides, of its rich upholstery, of its wide, swift -tires, of its perfectly adjusted machinery, was to bear us across -France. - -Emile, in green livery, managed her with the skill of a Bengali -_mahout_ in charge of an obedient and well-trained elephant. Emile was -a character. Born in French Switzerland, he spoke French, German and -Italian with equal fluency, and he had a smattering of English which -he invested with a picturesque quality due to transplanted idioms and -a variegated accent. Had he worn an upward-curling mustache and a -pointed Napoleonic beard, one might have taken him for at least a -vicomte. He knew every nook and corner of the twenty-two cantons and -he had a sense of locality worthy of a North American Indian. - -I could write a book about that trip from Cherbourg to Lausanne. Time -meant nothing to us. We could follow any whim, delay anywhere, without -serious fillip of conscience. The children were in trustworthy hands; -the weather was fine. If there is anything in astrology, the stars may -be said to have been propitious. We stopped for a day at the little -town of Dol in Bretagne. In honour of some problematic ancestor I had -the portal of the cathedral decorating my book-plate, and it was an -act which a Chinese mandarin would approve--to pay our respects to the -dim shades of Sir Raoul, or Duc Raoul, who is said to have accompanied -William the Conqueror to England and to have killed Hereward the Wake -in a hand-to-hand contest among the fens. Fortunate little town to -have such a cathedral, though why Samson should be its patron saint I -do not pretend to understand. His conduct with Delilah was hardly -saint-like, as we are accustomed to regard conduct in these days. - -We climbed Mont Dol and saw the footprints made by the agile archangel -Michael when he crouched to spring over to the rock that bears his -name. Generally such marks are attributed to the fallen angel who -switches the forked tail. That unpleasant personage must have been in -ancient days as diligent in travel as the Wandering Jew. The book of -Job contains his confession to the Lord that he was even then in the -habit of going to and fro in the earth and walking up and down in it. - -We saw Mont Michel, too, and wandered all over its wonderful castle. -We did not think it best to make a long sojourn in Paris. No longer is -it said that good Americans go there when they die. They had been -having rain and the Seine was on a rampage. What a strange idea to -build a big city on a marsh! it is certain to be deluged every little -while; and house-cleaning must be a terrible nuisance after the muddy -waters have swept through the second story floors, even if the -foundations do not settle or the house itself go floating down stream. -The river was threatening to pour over the quais; the arches of the -bridges were almost hidden and men were working like beavers to -protect the adjoining streets from inundation. - -When human beings put themselves in the way of the forces of nature -they are likely to be relentlessly wiped out of existence. Mountains -have a way of nervously shaking their shoulders as if they felt -annoyed at the temples or huts put there by men, just as a horse -scares away the flies on his flank, and, as the flies come back, so do -men return to the fascinating heights. It has been remarked that large -rivers always run by large cities, but the intervales through which -the rivers run, the flat lands which offer such opportunities for -laying out streets at small expense, are the creations of the busy -waters, and they seem to resent the trespassing of bipeds, and they -sometimes rise in their wrath and sweep the puny insects away. - -I ought not to speak disparagingly of Paris: it was in my plan to -return later and stay as long as I pleased. How can one judge of a -person or of a city in a moment's acquaintance? We left by the Porte -de Clarenton; we sped through the famous forest of Fontainebleau--Call -it a forest! It is about as much of a forest as a golf links are a -mountain lynx. We stayed long enough to look into the famous palace, -and evoke the memories of king and emperor. - -We spent a night at Orléans. I dreamed that night that Julius Cæsar -was kind enough to show me about. He pointed out the spot where his -camp was established and he told me how he burnt the town of Genabum, -the capital of the Carnutes. I had not long before read Napoleon's -"Life of Cæsar." - -To think of two thousand years of continuous existence; the same river -flowing gently by. If only rivers could remember and relate! It would -have reflected Attila in its gleaming waters. It would also have its -memories of the Maid whose courage freed the former city of the -Aurelians from its English foes. - -When we reached Tours the question arose whether we should not take -the roundabout route through Poitier, Angoulême and Biarritz, thence -zigzagging over to Pau, with its memories of Marguerite de Valois, and -the birthplace of Bernadotte, pausing at Carcassonne--if for nothing -else to justify one's memory of Gustave Nadaud's famous poem:-- - - "Yet could I there two days have spent - While still the autumn sweetly shone, - Ah me! I might have died content, - When I had looked on Carcassonne"-- - -getting wonderful views of the Pyrenees--only three hundred and -fifty-two miles from Tours to Biarritz, less than three hundred miles -to Carcassonne. - -One hundred and thirty miles farther is Montpellier, once famous for -its school of medicine and law. Here Petrarca studied almost six -hundred years ago and here, in 1798, Auguste Comte, the prophet of -humanity, was born. - -At Nîmes, thirty miles farther on, beckoned us the wonderful remains -of the old Roman civilization--the beautiful Maison Carrée, its almost -perfect amphitheatre, where once as many as twenty thousand spectators -could watch naval contests on its flooded arena, where Visigoths and -Saracens engaged in combats which made the sluices run with blood. -Here were born Alphonse Daudet and the historian Guizot. Was it not -worth while to make a pilgrimage to such birthplaces? I would walk -many miles to meet Tartarin. - -Only twenty-five miles farther lies Avignon, on the Rhône, once the -abiding-place of seven Popes, and from there a run of one hundred and -eighty-five miles takes one to Grenoble, whence, by way of -Aix-les-Bains, it is an easy and delightful way to reach Geneva. Then -Lausanne--home, so to speak!--a lakeside drive of a couple of hours! - -The other choice led from Tours, through Bourges, Nevers, Lyons, -tapping the longer route at Chambéry. - -"We will leave it to you to decide," said my niece. "It makes not the -slightest difference to us. We have plenty of time. Emile says the -roads are equally good in either itinerary. I myself think the route -skirting the Pyrenees would be much more interesting." - -"So do I! I vote for the longer route." - -Now there is nothing that I should better like than to write a -rhapsody about that marvellous journey--not a mere prose "log," giving -statistics and occasionally kindling into enthusiasm over historic -château or medieval cathedral or glimpse of enchanting scenery; but -the "journal" of a new Childe Harold borne along through delectable -regions and meeting with poetic adventures, having at his beck and -call a winged steed tamer than Pegasus and more reliable. But I -conscientiously refrain. My eyes are fixed on an ultimate goal, and -what comes between, though never forgotten, is only, as it were, the -vestibule. So I pass it lightly over, only exclaiming: "Blessed be the -man who first invented the motor-car and thrice blessed he who put -its crowning perfections at the service of mankind!" In the old days -the diligence lumbered with slow solemnity and exasperating -tranquillity through landscapes, even though they were devoid of -special interest. The automobile darts, almost with the speed of -thought, over the long, uninteresting stretches of white road. There -is no need to expend pity on panting steeds dragging their heavy load -up endless slopes. And when one wants to go deliberately, or stop for -half an hour and drink in some glorious view, the pause is money saved -and joy intensified. There is no sense of weariness such as results -from a long drive behind even the best of horses. Not that I love -horses less but _motos_ more! - -Twenty days we were on the road and favoured most of the time with -ideal weather. It was one long dream of delight. We had so much to -talk about; so much we learned! So many wonderful sights we saw! - -How could I possibly describe the first distant view of the Alps? It -is one of those sensations that only music can approximately represent -in symbols. Olyenin, the hero of Count Tolstoï's famous novel, "The -Cossacks," catches his first glimpse of the Caucasus and they occupy -his mind, for a time at least, to the exclusion of everything else. -"Little by little he began to appreciate the spirit of their beauty -and he _felt_ the mountains." - -I have seen, on August days, lofty mountains of cloud piled up on the -horizon, vast pearly cliffs, keenly outlined pinnacles, and I have -imagined that they were the Himalayas--Kunchinjunga or Everest--or the -Caucasus topped by Elbruz--or the Andes lifting on high Huascarán or -Coropuna--or more frequently the Alps crowned by Mont Blanc or the -Jungfrau. For a moment the illusion is perfect, but alas! they change -before your very eyes--perhaps not more rapidly than our earthly -ranges in the eyes of the Deity to whom a thousand years is but a day. -They, too, are changing, changing. Only a few millions of years ago -Mont Blanc was higher than Everest; in the yesterday of the mind the -little Welsh hills, or our own Appalachians, were higher than the -Alps. - -Like summer clouds, then, on the horizon are piled up the mighty -wrinkles of our old Mother Earth. We cannot see them change, but they -are dissolving, disintegrating. Only a day or two ago I read in the -newspaper of a great peak which rolled down into the valley, sweeping -away and burying vineyards and orchards and forests and the -habitations of men. The term everlasting hills is therefore only -relative and their resemblance to clouds is a really poetic symbol. - -Oh, but the enchantment of mountains seen across a beautiful sheet of -water! It is a curious circumstance that the colour of one lake is an -exquisite blue, while another, not so far away, may be as green as an -emerald. So it is with the tiny Lake of Nemi, which is like a blue -eye, and the Lake of Albano, which is an intense green. Here now -before our eyes, as we drove up from Geneva to Lausanne, lay a sheet -of the most delicate azure, and we could distinctly see the fringe of -grey or greenish grey bottom, the so-called _beine_ or _blancfond_, -which the ancient lake-dwellers utilized as the foundation for their -aerial homes. My nephew told me how a scientist, named Forel, took a -block of peat and soaked it in filtered water, which soon became -yellow. Then he poured some of this solution into Lake Geneva water, -and the colour instantly became a beautiful green like that of Lake -Lucerne. - -I found that Will Allerton is greatly interested in the geology of -Switzerland. Indeed, one cannot approach its confines without -marvelling at the forces which have here been in conflict--the -prodigious energy employed in sweeping up vast masses of granite and -protogine and gneiss as if they were paste in the hands of a baby; the -explosive powers of the frost, the mighty diligence of the waters. -Here has gone on for ages the drama of heat and cold. The snow has -fallen in thick blankets, it has changed by pressure into firn, and -then becomes a river of ice, flowing down into the valleys, gouging -out deep ruts and, when they come into the influence of the summer -sun, melting into torrents and rushing down, heaping up against -obstacles, forming lakes, and then again finding a passage down, ever -down, until they mingle with the sea. - -As we mounted up toward Lausanne, the ancient terrace about two -hundred and fifty feet above the present level of the lake is very -noticeable. In fact the low tract between Lausanne and Yverdun, on the -Lake of Neuchâtel, which corresponds to that level, gives colour to -the theory that the Lake of Geneva once emptied in that direction and -communicated with the North Sea instead of with the Mediterranean as -now. How small an obstacle it takes entirely to change the course of a -river or of a man's life! - -These practical remarks were only a foil to the exclamations of -delight elicited by every vista. I mean to know the lake well, and -shall traverse it in every direction. It takes only eight or ten -minutes from my niece's house by the _funicular_, or, as it is -familiarly called, _la ficelle_, down to Ouchy, the port of Lausanne. -I parodied the lines of Emerson-- - - I love a lake, I love a pond, - I love the mountains piled beyond. - -But I must confess I was not sorry to dismount from the motor-car in -front of the charming house that was destined to be my abode for so -many months. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -HOME AT LAUSANNE - - -The house stands by itself in a commanding situation on the Avenue de -Collanges. It is of dark stone, with bay windows. The front door -seemed to me, architecturally, unusually well-proportioned. It was -reached by a long flight of steps. It belonged to an old Lausanne -family who were good enough to rent it completely furnished. I -noticed, in the library, shelves full of interesting books bound in -vellum. Interesting? Well, I doubt if I should care to read many of -them--they are in Latin for the most part. How in the world could men -in those old days induce printers to manufacture such stately tomes -filled with so much wasted learning, on hand-made paper? - -I suppose it was characteristic of me to be attracted first of all by -the library, but, as soon as I got to my own room, I went to the -window--I confess it, the tears came to my eyes! It must be a dream. -I recognize the cathedral with its massive Gothic tower and its -slender spire and over the house-tops, far below, four hundred feet -below, gleams the azure lake, and beyond rise the mountains. A -steamboat cuts a silvery furrow through the blue, and a pearly cloud -clings to the side of--yes, it must be La Dent du Midi! Below me, for -the most part, lies Lausanne. I shall have plenty of time to know it -thoroughly, and never, never shall I tire of that view from my -chamber-window, looking off across the azure lake. - -So absorbed was I in my contemplation that I had not realized how near -luncheon-time it was. My trunk was at hand, unstrapped, and I quickly -changed from ship and automobile costume into somewhat more formal -dress. I was still looking out of the window with my collar in my hand -when a miniature cyclone burst open the door. Yes, it was my nephew -and namesake with the twin girls, blue-eyed Ethel and blue-eyed -Barbara, who came to sweep me down with them to luncheon. How -friendly, how gay, how excited, they were to see their _Oncle -Américain_! We became great friends on the spot! - -How delightful it is, after weeks of desultory meals at restaurants -and hotels, to sit once more at a well-ordered home table! The -dining-room was a large, stately apartment, with wide window-recesses. -There was fine stained glass in the windows. A number of admirable -chamois heads with symmetrical horns were attached to the walls. In -one corner stood a superb example of the ancient pottery stoves. It -was of white and blue _faïence à émail stannifère_ with gaily painted -flowers in the four corner vases. An inscription informed those that -could read the quaint lettering that it was made at Winterthür in -1647. How many generations of men it had warmed and comforted! How -many happy families had gathered about its huge flanks! What stories -it might relate of the days of yore! In spite of its artistic and -antiquarian charm, however, it does not compare to the old New England -or English open fireplace with fire-dogs supporting great logs of -flaming wood which, as they burn down, turn into visions of rose-red -palaces. I wonder how many of these old stoves are to be found in -Switzerland. The art of making them is said to have been brought from -Germany, but it soon acquired an individuality of its own. I am told -that there are superb specimens of them in the various museums. The -stannifer enamel is made by including some of the oxide of tin in the -biscuit. It makes the enamel opaque. - -[Illustration: A WINTERTHUR STOVE.] - -After luncheon Will asked me if I would like to go over to the -University, where he said he had a little business. I was very glad to -do so. The Avenue de Collanges passes by the Free Theological -Institute, the Ecole de Saint Roche, and, after joining with the Rue -Neuve, leads into the Place de la Riponne, facing which stands the -Palais de Rumine in which are the offices of the University. - -After the Reformed Church was established in Lausanne there was a -great demand for ministers, and a sort of theological school was -founded in 1536. Pierre Viret, a tailor's son, was active in this -work. The famous Konrad von Gesner, the following year, became -professor of Greek there, though he was only twenty-one. He won his -great reputation as a zoölogist and botanist. An indefatigable -investigator, he published no less than seventy-two works and left -eighteen partly completed. They covered medicine, mineralogy and -philology, as well as botany. He collected more than five hundred -different plants which the ancients knew nothing about. - -Another of the early professors was Theodore de Bèze. I remembered -seeing his name on my Greek Testament but I had forgotten what an -interesting character he was. It is a tremendous change from being a -dissipated cavalier at the court of François I, writing witty and -improper verses, to teaching Greek and morals at Lausanne; but it was -brought about by an illness which made him see a great light. While -teaching at Lausanne he wrote a Biblical drama, entitled, "Abraham's -Sacrifice." I am sorry to say he approved of the sacrifice of -Servetus. He was at Lausanne for ten years and then was called to -Geneva, where he became Calvin's right-hand man and ultimately -succeeded him. I wonder if he kept a copy of his early verses and read -them over with mingled feelings. - -It is rather odd that one of Bèze's successors, Alexandre Rodolphe -Vinet, who is regarded in Lausanne as the greatest of all her -professors, had a somewhat similar experience. He, too, was gay and -dissipated and wrote rollicking verses when he was a young man; he, -like old Omar, urged his friends to empty the wine-cup (or rather the -bottle, as it rhymed better) and let destiny go hang: "The god that -watches o'er the trellis is now our only reigning king." Perhaps, -later, he may have found a hidden spiritual meaning in his -references. Ascetics converted from rather free living have been -known thus to argue. Vinet, Will told me, began by teaching theology; -but he demanded greater freedom of utterance than the directors of the -Academy were prepared to allow. He detested the Revivalists and called -them lunatics. He opposed any established church. He was simply ahead -of his day. He was a brilliant preacher, and his lectures on -literature were highly enjoyed; but, after the Revolution of 1845, he -was obliged to resign. Two years later he died. He, too, wrote many -valuable books, mostly theological works, half a dozen of which have -been translated into English. - -Talking about these early days, we had reached the Palais Rumine, that -monument of Russian generosity--a new building--one might call it -almost a parvenu building--compared with the old Gothic cathedral, -only a few steps farther on. - -In a way, however, the cathedral is even later than the palace, -because its restoration, in accordance with plans designed by the -famous French architect, Viollet-le-Duc, was not completed until 1906, -two years after the other building was dedicated to its present uses. -The palace, which was built from the fifteen hundred thousand francs -left by Gavriil Riumin (to spell the name in the Russian way), -contains the various offices of the University, as well as picture -galleries and museums. - -"So this is the famous University of Lausanne," I exclaimed, as we -entered the learned portal. - -"It has been a University for only about a quarter of a century," -remarked Will. "Gibbon and others wanted the Academy raised to a -University more than a hundred years ago; but there seemed to be some -prejudice against it. Its various schools were added at intervals. -There has been a Special Industrial School 'of Public Works and -Constructions' for about sixty years. In 1873 a school of pharmacy was -started, and in 1888, when the Academy became a full-fledged -University, it established a medical school. Theology still stands -first; then come the schools of letters, of law, of science, of -pedagogy, and of chemistry. Instruction is given in design, fencing, -riding and gymnastics, and the University grants three degrees, the -baccalaureate, the licentiate and the doctorate. It has an excellent -library." - -"My errand will take me only a moment," he added. "It is too fine a -day to waste indoors; we shall have plenty of times when the -atmosphere is not so clear, for the museums and the cathedral. I -propose we stretch our legs by walking up to the Signal. Are you fit -for such a climb?" - -"What do you take me for?" I asked, with a fine show of indignation. -"It is only about four hundred feet above where we are now." - -I had not studied the guide-book for nothing. - -There may be a great exhilaration and excitement and delight in -climbing to the top of lofty mountains, but, when one has achieved the -summit, even if the view be not cut off by clouds, the distances are -so enormous that for poor mortal eyes the result is most -unsatisfactory. Huddled together, peak with peak, an indistinguishable -mass, lie other mountains and ranges of mountains, with bottomless -valleys; the effect is as unsatisfactory as the air is rare. One can -see nothing clearly; one is out of one's element, so to speak; one can -hardly breathe. - -But from a height of a thousand feet, or so, one gets a comprehensive -view of the world; one can distinguish the habitations of men; their -farms and fields are marked off with fences; the rivers and brooks are -not voiceless. It is a satisfying experience. Such is the impression -that I got from the top of the Signal. The city is fascinating, seen -from above. There is the great bulk of the cathedral with its massive -tower and the tall slender spire; the red roofs of innumerable houses; -chimneys of factories in the lower town; then the exquisite lake; and, -beyond it, the singularly silent and solemn masses of Les Diablerets, -Le Grand Muveran and the jagged teeth of the Savoy Mountains, biting -into the sky. They are so high that they shut off the grand bulk of -Mont Blanc. It was certainly most thoughtful of my Lord Rhône to pause -in the great valley and make a sky-blue lake for the delectation of -mortals! Like swans with raised wings are the sail-boats. How far the -wake made by that excursion steamboat extends across the placid water; -it is curved like a scimetar of damascened steel! - -"What a host of hotels!" I exclaimed. "I wonder how many foreigners -are staying at Lausanne." - -"There must be five or six thousand regular residents from other parts -of the world, besides the multitude of transients; Lausanne is a -convenient stopping-place for several routes, to say nothing of the -Simplon Tunnel line to Italy. There are probably fourteen hundred -students at the University, and half of that number are Germans, -Russians and Poles. The German Minister of Public Instruction permits -students of the Empire to spend the first three semesters at certain -of the Swiss universities. But a suspicion arose in some Vaterland -circles that these young men were being corrupted by Russian -radicalism and Vaudois democracy--undermining their monarchical -principles. There was also some jealousy, especially in the Law -School. Herr Kuhlenbeck and Herr Vleuten were the so-called treaty -professors, and the fees were not equally distributed. The Rundschau -charged that young men learned socialism. - -"It has always seemed to me an excellent notion to exchange students, -just as we are beginning to exchange professors. It might serve to -undermine narrow, sectional patriotism, but it would teach a broader, -world patriotism." - -The view back of Lausanne also claimed my attention. - -"These heights of Jorat," said Will, "are rather interesting -geologically. It seems to be a sort of subsidiary wave, filling the -space between the Jura and the Alps; but it has an individuality of -its own. It was always covered with great sombre forests which gave it -a melancholy aspect. The basis of the soil is sandstone, covered with -pudding-stone. The ridge is all cut up with deep valleys. I have heard -it said that the inhabitants had quite distinguishing characteristics -and I don't know why the people who live on some particular soil -should not develop in their own way, just as the trees and plants and -even the animals do. The stature diminishes as men inhabit higher and -higher altitudes. The Swiss of the plains are generally rather heavy -and slow, serious and solid. In the same way the people who live along -the Jorat ought to be self-contained, close-mouthed, rather sad in -temperament, perhaps uncertain in their movements, like the brook, the -Nozon, which can't quite make up its mind whether to flow to the -Mediterranean by way of the Rhône or to the German Ocean by way of the -Rhine." - -"It used to be a pretty important region, I should judge," said I, -"from all I have read of Swiss history. One flood of invasion after -another dashed up against its walls and poured through its valleys." - -"It was, indeed. Some day I will show you the old tower which was -called the Eye of Helvetia because it looked down and guarded the -chief routes south and north, which crossed at its feet. It can be -seen on a clear day from the top of Mont Pélerin. Then there is the -tower of Gourze, where Queen Berthe took refuge when the Huns came -sweeping over this land. Lausanne itself, as it is now, is a proof of -the old invasions; it used to stand on the very shores of the lake, -but, when the Allemanni came, the inhabitants took refuge in the -heights." - -"I think this is a charming view, but, do you know, to me its greatest -charm is in the signs of a flourishing population. See the church -spires picturesquely rising above clumps of trees, and, here and -there, the tiled roofs of some old château--of course I do not know -them from one another, but I know the names of several--Moléson, -Corcelles, Ropraz, Ussières, Chatélard, Hermenches." - -Several of these my nephew and I afterwards visited. I recall with -delight our trip to the Château de Ropraz, where once lived the -wonderfully gifted Renée de Marsens. It now belongs to the family of -Desmeules. Near it, on a hill, lies the little village, the church of -which was reconstructed in 1761, though its interior still preserves -its venerable, archaic appearance. A grille surmounted by the Clavel -arms separates the nave from the choir. There are tombs with Latin -inscriptions, and on the walls are escutcheons painted with the arms -of the old seigneurs. They still show the benches reserved for the -masters of the château, flanked by two chairs with copper plates -signifying that they are the "Place du Commandant" and the "Place du -Chef de la Justice." Seats were provided for visiting strangers and -also for the domestics of the château. On the front of the pulpit is a -_panneau_ of carved wood bearing the words _Soli Deo Gloria_. - -Renée, after her father's fortune was lost, failed to make a suitable -marriage, but she lived in Lausanne until 1848, and people used to go -to call on her. They loved her for the brilliancy of her mind and her -exquisite old-fashioned politeness. She knew Voltaire and all the -great men of his time. - -Another of the châteaux which we mentioned but were not certain that -we could see was that of l'Isle, situated at the base of Mont Tendre -in the valley of the Venoge. To this, also, we made an excursion one -afternoon. It must have been splendid in its first equipment. It was -built for Lieutenant Charles de Chandieu on plans furnished by the -great French architect, François Mansard, whose memory is preserved in -thousands of American roofs. In its day it was surrounded by a fine -park. One room was furnished with Gobelin tapestries, brilliant with -classic designs. Other rooms had tapestries with panels of verdure in -the style of the Seventeenth Century. The salon was floored with -marble ("the marble halls" which one might dream of dwelling in) and -hung with crimson damask, setting forth the family portraits and the -painted panels. On the mantels were round clocks of gilt bronze, while -huge mirrors, resting on carved consoles, reflected the brilliant -companies that gathered there to dance or play. There was an abundance -of high-backed armchairs and sofas, or as they called them, _canapés_, -upholstered in velvet, commodes in ebony adorned with copper, and -marquetry secretaries. - -On the ground floor there was a great ballroom hung with splendid -Cordovan leather. As it had a large organ it was probably used as a -chapel, for the family was musical and several of the ladies of the -Chandieu family composed psalms--Will called them _chants-Dieu_, which -was not bad. - -From the entrance-hall a splendid stairway, still well-preserved, with -its wrought-iron railing led up to the sleeping-rooms, which were -furnished with great beds _à la duchesse_ with satin baldaquins. Among -the treasures was a beautiful chest of marquetry bearing the -coat-of-arms quartered; it was a marriage-gift. Another, dated 1622, -came from the Seigneur de Bretigny. - -In front was a terrace with steps at the left leading down to the -water. On each side of the stately main entrance, which reached to the -roof, well adorned with chimneys, were three generous windows on each -floor. In front there was a wide and beautifully kept lawn. The -property was sold in 1810 for one hundred and seventy thousand francs. -It came into the hands of Jacques-Daniel Cornaz, who, in 1877, sold it -again for two hundred thousand. It now belongs to the Commune and is -used for the _écoles séculaires_. The wall that once surrounded it has -disappeared and the prosperous farms once attached to it were sold. - -There is nothing in the literature of domestic life more fascinating -than the diary and letters of Catherine de Chandieu, who married -Salomon de Charrière de Sévery. They inherited the charming estate of -Mex with its châteaux, and one of them, with a queer-shaped apex at -each corner and a fascinating piazza, became their summer home. -Another of these fine old places was the Château de Saint-Barthélemy, -which belonged to the Lessert family for three or four generations; -then came into the possession of the famous Karl Viktor von -Bonstetten, the author and diplomat, and was bought in 1909 by M. -Gaston de Cerjat. In the hall hung pictures of several French kings, -probably presented because of diplomatic services. Many of these old -manor-houses on the shores of the Lakes of Geneva and of Neuchâtel -have come into the possession of wealthy foreigners who have -modernized them; others are now asylums, or schools, or -boarding-houses. - -But in those days they were filled with a cultivated and hospitable -gentry who were always paying and receiving visits. - -Really there is no end to the romance of these old houses; yet, -curiously enough, most of them were carefully set down in little -valleys which protected them from cold winds, but also from the -magnificent views which they might have had. Even when they were on -hills, trees were so planted as to hide the enchanting landscape, the -lake and the gleaming mountains. Albrecht von Haller, the Bernese poet -and novelist, Charles de Bonnet of Geneva, and Rousseau at Paris, -"lifted the veil from the mountains" and made the world realize that -the lake was something else than a trout-pond. - -[Illustration: A SWISS CHÂTEAU.] - -It was time for us to be getting back. While we were on Le Signal some -aerial Penelope had woven a web of delicate cloud and spread it out -half-way up the Savoy Mountains across the lake; everything had -changed as everything will in a brief half-hour. There were different -gorges catching sunbeams, and tossing out shadows; there was another -tint of violet over the waters. I suggested a plan for describing -mountain views. It was to gather together all the adjectives that -would be appropriate--high, lofty, massive, portentous, frowning, -cloud-capped, craggy, granitic, basaltic, snow-crowned, delectable and -so on, just as Lord Timothy Dexter did with his punctuation-marks, -delegating them to the end of his "Pickle for the Knowing Ones," so -that people might "pepper and salt" it as they pleased. If I wrote a -book about Switzerland--that is, if I find that my impressions, jotted -down like a diary, are worth publishing, I mean to add an appendix to -contain a sort of armory of well-fitting adjectives and epithets for -the use of travellers and sentimental young persons. In this way I may -be recognized as a benefactor and philanthropist. - -"Do you know what is the origin of the name, Lausanne?" asked Will, -arousing me from a revery caused by the compelling beauty of those -gem-like peaks, that rippling ridge of violet-edged magnificences that -loomed above the glorious carpet of the lake. The pedigree of names is -always interesting to me. Philology has always been a hobby of mine. - -"Why, yes," said I, "that is an easy one. It comes from the former -name of the river, Flon. The Romans used to call the settlement here -Lousonna. Almost all names of rivers have the primitive word meaning -water, or flow, hidden in them. The Aa, the Awe, the Au, the Ouse, the -Oise, the Aach and the English Avon, and a lot more, come from the Old -High German _aha_, and that is nothing but the Latin _aqua_. The Greek -_hudor_ is seen in the Oder, the Adour, the Thur, the Dranse and even -in the Portuguese Douro; and the Greek _rheo_, 'I flow,' is in the -Rhine and the Rhône and the Reuss and in the Rye." - -"So I suppose you derive Lausanne from the French _l'eau_." - -As I passed in silent contempt such an atrocious joke as that, he -seized the opportunity to tell me about the Frenchman who had some -unpleasant associations with the inhabitants and declared it was -derived from _les ânes_--the asses. - -"From all I have read about them," I replied, "they must have been a -pretty narrow-minded, bigoted set of people here. Way back in 1361 an -old sow was tried and condemned to be hanged for killing a child; and -about the middle of the next century a cock was publicly burned for -having laid a basilisk's egg. One of the worthy bishops of -Lausanne,--did you ever hear?--went down to the shores of the lake and -recited prayers against the bloodsuckers that were killing the -salmon." - -"Was that any more superstitious than for present-day ministers to -pray for rain?" - -"I suppose not; only it seems more trivial," I replied absently, as I -gazed down upon the housetops. "I did not realize Lausanne was so -large." - -"The city is growing, Uncle. Toward the south and the west you can see -how it is spreading out. There is something tragic to me in the -outstretch of a city. It is like the conquest of a lava-flow, such as -I once saw on the side of Kilauea, in the Hawaiian Islands; it cuts -off the trees, it sweeps away the natural beauties. Lausanne has -trebled its population in fifty years. It must have been much more -picturesque when Gibbon lived here. For almost eighty years they have -been levelling off the hills. It took five years to build the big -bridge which Adrien Pichard began, but did not live to finish. The -bridge of Chauderon has been built less than ten years." - -"They must have had a tremendous lot of filling to do." - -"They certainly have, and they have given us fine streets and -squares--especially those of La Riponne and Saint-François. It was too -bad they destroyed the house of the good Deyverdun, where Gibbon spent -the happiest days of his life. It had too many associations with the -historic past of Lausanne. They ought to have kept the whole five -acres as a city park. What is a post office or a hotel, even if it is -named after a man, compared to the rooms in which he worked, the very -roof that sheltered him?" - -"We have still time enough," said I, consulting the elevation of the -sun; "let us go down by way of the cathedral. I should like to see it -in the afternoon light." - -"We can take the _funiculaire_ down; that will get us there quicker." - -We did so, and then the Rue l'Industrie brought us, by way of the Rue -Menthon, to the edifice itself. - -"I want you to notice the stone of which the cathedral is built," said -Will. - -"Yes, it's sandstone." - -"It is called Lausanne stone. A good many of the old houses are built -of it, and it came from just one quarry, now exhausted, I believe. It -seems to have run very unevenly. Some of the big columns are badly -eaten by the tooth of time; in others the details are just as fresh as -if they had been done yesterday. Notice those quaint little figures -kneeling and flying in the ogives of the portal; some are intact, -others look as if mice had gnawed them. It is just the same with some -of the fine old houses; one will be shabby and dilapidated; the very -next will be well-preserved." - -"I think it is a rather attractive colour--that greyish-green with the -bluish shadows." - -We stood for a while outside and looked up at the mighty walls and the -noble portal. We walked round on the terrace from which one gets such -a glorious view. - -There is something solemn and almost disquieting in a religious -edifice which has witnessed so many changes during a thousand years. -Its very existence is a curious and pathetic commentary on the -superstitions of men. Westerners, interpreting literally the -symbolism of the Orient, believed that the world would come to an end -at the end of the first millennium. It was a terrible, crushing fear -in many men's minds. When the dreaded climacteric had passed and -nothing happened, and the steady old world went on turning just as it -had, the pious resolved to express their gratitude by erecting a -shrine to the Virgin Mother of God. Before it was completed its -founder was assassinated. In the thirteenth century it was thrice -devastated by fires which were attributed by the superstitious to the -anger of God at the sins of the clergy and of the people. The statue -of the Virgin escaped destruction and the church was rebuilt between -1235 and 1275. When it was consecrated, in October, 1275, Pope Gregory -X, with the Emperor, Rudolf of Hapsburg, his wife and their eight -children, and a brilliant crowd of notables, cardinals, dukes, princes -and vassals of every degree, were present. The great entrance on the -west was completed in the fifteenth century. The nave is three hundred -and fifty-two feet long; its width is one hundred and fifty feet and -it is divided into eight aisles. There are seventy windows and about a -thousand columns, many of them curiously carved. - -The well-known Gate of the Apostles is in the south transept. It -commemorates only seven of them, though why that invidious distinction -should have been made no one knows. Old Testament characters fill up -the quota. These worthies stand on bowed and cowed demons or other -enemies of the Faith. - -In the south wall is the famous rose-window, containing -representations of the sun and the moon, the seasons and the months, -the signs of the zodiac and the sacred rivers of Paradise, and quaint -and curious wild beasts which probably are visual traditions of the -antidiluvian monsters that once inhabited the earth, and were still -supposed to dwell in unexplored places. - -The vaulting of the nave is sixty-two feet high. It gave plenty of -room for the two galleries which once surmounted the elaborately -carved façade. One of them was called the Monks' Garden, because it -was covered with soil and filled with brilliant flowers. - -Back of the choir is a semicircular colonnade. The amount of detail -lavished on the various columns is a silent witness of the cheapness -of skilled labour and of the time people had to spend. The carved -choir stalls, completed in 1506, were somehow spared by the vandal -iconoclasts of the Reformation; but thirty years later Bern, when -taking possession of Lausanne, carried off eighteen wagon-loads of -paintings, solid gold and silver statues, rich vestments, tapestries, -and all the enormous wealth contributed to the treasures of the -church. - -We were fortunate to find the cathedral still open, and in the golden -afternoon light we slowly strolled through the silent fane--the word -fane always sounds well. We paused in front of the various historic -tombs. Especially interesting was that dedicated to the memory of Otho -de Grandson, who, having been charged with having instigated the -murder of Amadée VII, was obliged to enter into a judicial duel with -Gérard d'Estavayer, the brother of the fair Catherine d'Estavayer whom -he expected to marry. - -Gérard apparently stirred up great hatred against him. Otho had in his -favour the Colombiers, the Lasarraz, the Corsonex, and the Rougemonts; -while with Gérard were the Barons de Bussy, de Bonvillar, de Bellens, -de Wuisternens, de Blonay and, especially, representatives of the -powerful family of d'Illens whose great, square castle is still -pointed out, beetling over the Sarine opposite Arconciel. These men -were probably jealous of Otho. His friends wore a knot of ribbons on -the tip of their pointed shoes, while his enemies carried a little -rake over their shoulders. - -Otho shouted out his challenge to Gérard: "You lie and have lied every -time you have accused me. I swear it by God, by Saint Anne and by the -Holy Rood. But come on! I will defend myself and I will so press -forward that my honour will be splendidly preserved. But you shall be -esteemed as a liar." - -So Otho made the sign of the Cross and threw down the battle-gage. -But, although he was undoubtedly innocent, the battle went against -him. His effigy is still to be seen in the cathedral. The hands -resting on a stone cushion are missing but this probably was due to -some accident and not to any symbolism. This all happened about a -hundred years before Columbus discovered America--in 1398. - -Here, too, lies buried, under a monument by Bartolini, Henrietta, the -first wife of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, minister from England to -Switzerland. She died in 1818. - -There are monuments also commemorating the Princess Orlova, who was -poisoned by Catharine II of Russia, and Duc Amadée VIII, who caused -Savoy to be erected into a duchy and became Pope Felix V in 1439, -after he had lived for a while in a hermitage on the other shore of -the lake. He is not buried in the cathedral but his intimate -connection with the history of Lausanne is properly memorialized by -his monument. - -A city is like an iceberg. Its pinnacles and buttresses tower aloft -and glitter in the sun; it seems built to last for ever. But it is not -so; its walls melt and flow away and are put to other uses. A temple -changes into a palace, and a fortification is torn down to make a -park. Where are the fifty chapels that once flanked Notre Dame de -Lausanne? Where is the fortified monastery of Saint Francis? Where is -the lofty tower of La Grotte, and the moat in which it was reflected? - -A great pageant took place in the cathedral in 1476. After Charles the -Bold, Duke of Burgundy, had been defeated at Grandson, he collected -what remained of his army of 50,000 men, and encamped in the plains of -Le Loup. Then on Easter Sunday, he attended high mass. The cathedral -was lavishly decorated and a brilliant throng "assisted" at the -ceremonies. The Duchess Yolande of Savoy came from Geneva, bringing -her whole court and an escort of three thousand horsemen. The Pope's -legate and the emperor's ambassadors brought their followers, while -representatives of other courts were on hand, for the occasion was -made memorable by the proclamation of peace between the duke and the -emperor. There was a great clanging of bells and fanfare of trumpets -and the whole city was overrun with soldiers. The commissary -department was strained to feed such multitudes. It is said that an -English knight, serving in the duke's army, was reduced to eating -gold; at any rate his skull was found some years ago with a rose noble -tightly clenched between its teeth! - -A few months later the battle of Morat was fought; the duke was -defeated and Lausanne was doubly sacked, first by the Comte de Gruyère -and, a few hours later, by his allies, the Bernese troops, who spared -neither public nor private edifices. - -Just sixty years later Lausanne fell definitely into the hands of the -Bernese, and they, by what seems an almost incredible revival of the -judicial duel--only with spiritual instead of carnal weapons--ordered -a public dispute on religion to decide whether Catholicism or -Protestantism should be the religion of the city. - -The comedian of the occasion seems to have been the lively Dr. -Blancherose, who was constantly interrupting and interpolating -irrelevant remarks, to the annoyance of the other disputants and to -the amusement of the audience which packed the cathedral. On one -occasion he declared that the word _cephas_ was Greek and meant head; -Viret replied that it was a Syriac word and meant stone. The Pope -could have well dispensed with such an advocate. - -The superiority of the Protestant debaters resulted in converting some -of the opposite party, and the establishment of the Academy of -Lausanne was the direct outcome of this debate, which was declared in -all respects favourable to the Reformers. - -The day after the decision was rendered, a crowd of bigots broke into -the cathedral, overturned the altars and the crucifix, and desecrated -the image of the Virgin. Workmen were paid for fifteen days at the -rate of four and one sixth sous a day to clear Notre Dame of its -altar-stones. And yet Jean François Naegueli (or Nägeli), when he took -possession of Lausanne, had promised to protect the two Christian -faiths. - -It is a question whether one would rather live in those days under the -easy-going régime of the superstitious Catholics or under that of the -stern, forbidding bigotry of the Protestants. Geneva could not endure -the latter and banished Farel and Calvin two years later; but back -they came and established the tyranny more solidly than ever. Calvin -drove Castellio out of Geneva, caused Jacques Gruet to be tortured and -put to death, mainly because he danced at a wedding and wore -new-fangled breeches, and had Servetus burned at the stake. It was a -cruel age. - - * * * * * - -A cloud evidently passed over the face of the sun; the colours in the -great rose window grew almost pallid. We left the church and again -stood on the terrace. - -"We are just about one hundred and fifty-two meters above the lake," -said Will. "Do you know, in the harbour of Geneva there are two big -rocks which the early inhabitants of this region used to worship. They -are granite, or protogen, and must have been brought down from some -distant mountain, probably from the Saint-Bernard, by a glacier. In -the old Roman days they were worshipped. On the top of one of them is -a bronze plaque, put there in 1820 by General Dufour, and regarded as -the standard, or rather the base, for all Swiss hypsometry. If you -want to know how high above the level of the sea the Dent du Midi is, -you will find it on the map 'R. P. N.' plus its height above the -plaque. For instance the Cathedral here is R. P. N. plus a little more -than one hundred and fifty-two meters. But the queer thing is that no -two people who have tried to correct or verify General Dufour's -reckoning of the height of the plaque have been able to agree. General -Dufour made it a fraction over three hundred and seventy-six meters -and a half, which would give the level of the lake as three hundred -and seventy-five meters; but it has since been corrected to a bit less -than three hundred and seventy-three meters--a loss of almost ten -feet." - -"What does that mean--that the scientists blundered?" - -"It looks to me as if the whole level of the valley had perhaps -settled. Every one knows that it is changing all the time--but come -on, I want you to see the cathedral from the Place de Saint Laurent. -It isn't far from here." - -When we got there Will stopped and said: - -"There! Isn't that worth coming for? I wonder if there is any other -cathedral in the world that has a more magnificent site." - -We paused for some time, looking up at its solid bulk, which seemed -to touch the gathering clouds. - -[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL, LAUSANNE.] - -"I brought you here especially," continued Will, "because one of -Switzerland's few poets praises its aspect from this spot. He says -something like this: 'It is a great crag fixt there. Contemplate it -when heavy clouds are passing over. Standing below it and letting your -eye follow the radiant field which creeps up to its flanks, you -imagine that it grows larger amid the wild clouds which it tears as -they fly over, leaving it unshaken. You might believe yourself in some -Alpine valley, over which towers a solitary peak while around it -cluster the mists driven by the wind.' He grows still more -enthusiastic at the beauty of it when the chestnut-trees are in bloom, -contrasting with the violet roofs below and surrounded by the azure -aureole of the lake and the mountains and he speaks of its 'graceful -energy' against the golden background." - -"Who is the poet?" I asked. - -"Oh, Juste Olivier. I will introduce you to him some day--I mean to -his works. He himself died in 1876, if I am not mistaken. I have the -two volumes which his friends edited as a sort of memorial to him." - -"I didn't suppose there were any Swiss poets--I mean great Swiss -poets. Of course I know Hebel--" - -"Yes, back in Gibbon's time, the society founded by his friend -Deyverdun discussed the question, 'Why hasn't the Pays de Vaud -produced any poets?' Juste Olivier deliberately set to work to fill -the gap." - -"Did he succeed? He is not much known outside of Switzerland, is he?" - -"Probably not; you shall see for yourself. But I remember one stanza -on Liberty which has a fine swing to it-- - - "'La Liberté depuis les anciens ages - Jusqu'à ceux où flottent nos destins - Aime à poser ses pieds nus et sauvages - Sur les gazons qu'ombragent nos sapins. - Là, sa voix forte éclate et s'associe - Avec la foudre et ses roulements sourds. - Nous qui t'aimons, Helvétie, Helvétie, - Nous qui t'aimons, nous t'aimerons toujours.' - -"That is a fine figure--Liberty loving to set her foot on the soil -shaded by the Swiss pines,--and so is that of Helvetia mingling her -voice with the rolling of the thunder. That stanza has been praised as -one of the finest of the century." - -As we leisurely strolled homeward my nephew called my attention to the -northern slope of the Flon, just beyond the magnificent bridge, -Chauderon-Montbénon. "That," he remarked, "is called Boston." - -"Why is that?" - -"I don't know, unless to commemorate the fact that Lausanne is built -on three hills. The north part was called La Cité, that to the south -was le Bourg--the Rue du Bourg was the court end of the town, and had -especial privileges--and the western side was called Saint-Laurent. It -was only a little town when Gibbon came here to live; but it had -unusually good society and there was a great deal of wealth, as you -can imagine from the fine old houses." - -"Where did they get their money?" - -"A good many of them through fortunate speculation. The men used to -seek service in foreign countries. It is surprising how many of them -became tutors to royal or princely families, or, if they were trained -in the profession of arms, got commissions as officers in Russia, -France, Spain and Holland. Some of them even went to India and -America. A good many of them returned, if they returned at all, with -handsome fortunes." - -"Isn't it strange that a country which is always supposed to stand for -liberty and patriotism should, next the Hessians, furnish the very -best type of the mercenary! For a hundred years the French kings had -to protect themselves with a Swiss guard, and the Pope's fence of -six-footers have been recruited from Lucerne and the Inner Cantons -during more than four centuries." - -"Do you remember what Rousseau said about mercenary military service? -It runs something like this: 'I think every one owes his life to his -country; but it is wrong to go over to princes who have no claim on -you, and still worse to sell yourself and turn the noblest profession -in the world into that of a vile mercenary.' But Lausanne's best -contribution to foreign countries was education. The Academy, or -college as they used to call it, attracted many people from abroad. -Ever since it was founded--and the Protestants deserve that credit--it -provided remarkably good professors and lecturers. The old families -that had country estates got into the habit of spending their winters -in town. They were wonderfully interrelated and many of them, through -marriage, had several baronies. They were enormously proud of their -titles and position. I have recently been reading Rousseau--especially -his 'Nouvelle Héloïse'--you know about a year ago they were -celebrating the two hundredth anniversary of his birth,--and I was -struck with what he makes My Lord Edward Bomston say about the petty -aristocracy of this Pays de Vaud: 'Why does this noblesse of which you -are so proud claim such honors? What does it do for the glory of the -country or for the happiness of the human race? Mortal enemy of laws -and of liberty, what has it ever produced except tyrannical power and -the oppression of the people? Do you dare in a republic boast of a -condition destructive of the virtues and of humanity, a condition -which produces slavery and makes one blush at being a man?'" - -"It seems to have been a regular feudalism." - -"It was. Gibbon was much struck by the unfairness of the régime which -obtained in his day, and he speaks somewhere of three hundred families -born to command and of a hundred thousand, of equally decent descent, -doomed to subjection. They used to have a queer custom here, for a -man, when he married, to add the wife's name to his own...." - -"Just as in Spain," I interpolated. - -"Yes, only hyphenated. They worked the particle _de_ to death. As -almost every one of the great families was related more or less -closely to every other, and the estates were constantly passing from -one branch to another, a man would at one time be Baron de -Something-or-other, and the next year, perhaps, would appear with -quite a different appellation. For instance, there was Madame -Secretan, whose family name was taken from the Seigneurie -d'Arnex-sur-Orbe. Antoine d'Arnay--he spelt his name phonetically--was -Seigneur de Montagny-la-Corbe, co-seigneur de Luxurier, Seigneur de -Saint-Martin-du-Chêne and Seigneur de Mollondin. And the husband of -the famous Madame de Warens appears under several aliases. It is very -confusing. - -"When the nobles returned with hundreds of thousands of francs," he -added, "they spent their money royally. Many of these houses are -filled with splendid carved furniture and tapestries. As long as Bern -was suzerain of Vaud, and governed it, there was small chance for -Government service and this state of things led to a peculiar -atmosphere--one of frivolity and pleasure-seeking. The men hadn't -anything to do except to amuse themselves and few were the years when -some foreign prince was not studying here and spending any amount of -money in dinners and dances." - -"Yes," said I, "considering that Lausanne was in the very centre of -Calvinism, it must have been pretty gay. I suppose the influence of -France was even stronger than that of Geneva or Bern." - -By this time we had reached our own street and were climbing the -flight of steps that led to the handsomely arched portal. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -GIBBON AT LAUSANNE - - -The next day it rained. The whole valley was filled with mist. The -_sudois_, as they call the southwest wind, moaned about the windows. -But I did not care; explorations or excursions were merely postponed. -There would be plenty of time, and it was a pleasure to spend a quiet -day in the library. We devoted it mainly to Gibbon and old -Lausanne--that is, the Lausanne of Gibbon's day, and, before we were -tired of the subject, I think we had visualized the vain, witty, -delightful, pompous, lazy, learned exile who so loved his "Fanny -Lausanne," as he liked to call the little town. - -When he first arrived there from England, he was only sixteen--a -nervous, impressionable, ill-educated youth. He had been converted to -Roman Catholicism, and, glorying in it with all the ardour of an -acolyte, he was taken seriously by the college authorities at Oxford -and expelled. His father had to do something with him; he was just -about to get married for the second time and, as the boy would be in -his way, he decided to "rusticate" him in Lausanne. - -It was arranged that young Gibbon should be put into the care of the -worthy Pastor Daniel Pavilliard, a rather unusually broad-minded, -sweet-tempered, and highly educated professor, the secretary and -librarian of the Academy, afterwards its principal. He was then -probably living in the parsonage of the First Deacon in the Rue de la -Cité derrière, now a police-station, a picturesque house with high -roof, with long vaulted corridors and wide galleries in the rear, from -which could be seen the Alps beyond the Flon and the heights to the -southeast of the city. - -The plan of giving the boy a good cold bath of Presbyterianism worked -better than would have been believed possible. Like a piece of hot -iron dipped into ice-water he came out quite changed. He hissed and -sizzled for a while, and then hardened into a free-thinker. It is odd -how people can throw off a form of religion as if it were a cloak. - -It was a trying experience for the lad. Madame Pavilliard, whose name -was Carbonella, did not pattern after her husband. According to Gibbon -she was narrow, mean and grasping, disagreeable and lacking in -refinement. He could not speak French; they could not speak English. -He gives a pathetic account of his misery; telling how he was obliged -to exchange an elegant apartment in Magdalen College "for a narrow, -gloomy street, the most infrequented of an unhandsome town, for an old -inconvenient house and for a small chamber, ill-contrived and -ill-furnished, which at the approach of winter, instead of a -companionable fire, must be warmed by the dull, invisible heat of a -stove." His earliest entry in the diary which he kept said:--"First -aspect horrid--house, slavery, ignorance, exile." He felt that his -"condition seemed as destitute of hope as it was devoid of pleasure." - -After a while, however, his natural good spirits rallied. He wrote his -father: "The people here are extremely civil to strangers, and -endeavor to make this town as agreeable as possible." - -He began to join the young people in making excursions, and he wrote -home asking permission to take riding lessons. Pastor Pavilliard -encouraged him to join in the gayeties of the town. There were dances; -there were concerts with violins, harpsichords, flutes and singing. - -He soon made the acquaintance of Georges Deyverdun, a young man a -little older than himself, of high character and aristocratic -connections. Deyverdun's early diaries are extant and often mention -walking with M. de Guiben or de Guibon. They became life-long friends. -A book which had great influence on Gibbon was a "Logic" written by -Professor Jean Pierre de Crousaz, who, after a life of great honours -and wide experiences, had died three years before Gibbon's arrival at -Lausanne. - -Voltaire wrote him: "You have made Lausanne the temple of the Muses -and you have more than once caused me to say that, if I had been able -to leave France, I would have withdrawn to Lausanne." - -De Crousaz's "Logic" fortified Gibbon to engage in a battle for his -faith. He had lively discussions with Pavilliard, but gradually "the -various articles of the Romish creed disappeared like a dream;" and -after a full conviction, on Christmas-day, 1754, he received the -sacrament in the church of Lausanne. - -Gibbon's "return to the light" caused a lively joy in the Assembly -which voted that the Dean should congratulate him on such a sensible -act. He was examined and found "perfectly enlightened upon religion -and remarkably well informed on all and each of the articles -separating them from the Church of Rome." - -Whether Gibbon may not have had a weather eye open to material -benefits at home is a question which falls with several other of his -expressions of opinion. He had a wealthy aunt who was much offended by -his defection from her Church. Only a month later Pastor Pavilliard -wrote this Mrs. Porten:-- - -"I hope, Madame, that you will acquaint Mr. Gibbon with your -satisfaction and restore him to your affection, which, though his -errors may have shaken, they have not, I am sure, destroyed. As his -father has allowed him but the bare necessities, I dare beg of you to -grant him some token of your satisfaction." - -In the Autumn of 1755 Gibbon and his guardian made "a voyage" through -Switzerland by way of Yverdun, Neuchâtel, Bienne, Soleure, Bâle, -Baden, Zürich, Lucerne and Bern. He kept a journal of his experiences, -written in not very accurate French. He was more interested in castles -and history, in persons and customs than in scenery; indeed, he -scarcely mentions the magnificence of the mountains, but he devotes -considerable space to the linen-market of Langental and the -surprising wealth of the peasantry, some, he says, having as much as -six hundred thousand francs. He explained it by the profits from their -linen and their cattle and especially by their great thrift. Fathers -brought up their children to work and to be contented with their state -in life--simple peasants; they wore fine linen and fine cloth, but -wore peasants' clothes; they had fine horses, but plowed with them; -and they preferred that their daughters marry persons in their own -condition rather than those who might bring them titles. - -[Illustration: LAUSANNE AND THE SAVOY MOUNTAINS.] - -On reaching Bern he gives no description of the city but elaborately -explains the curious system of government which obtained there. The -inhabitants, he thought, were inclined to be proud, but he found a -philosophical cause for it, and wondered that more of the natives were -not guilty of that sin. He thought the environs of Bern had not a -cheerful appearance, but were on the contrary rather wild. - -Soon after his return began the one romantic episode in Gibbon's -life--his love affair with Suzanne Curchod, daughter of the Protestant -pastor at Crassy or Crassier, a village on the lower slopes of the -Jura, between Lausanne and Geneva. Gibbon himself tells what she was: -"The wit, the beauty, the erudition of Mlle. Curchod were the theme of -universal applause. The report of such a prodigy awakened my -curiosity; I saw and loved. I found her learned without pedantry, -lively in conversation, pure in sentiment, and elegant in manners; and -the first sudden emotion was fortified by the habits and knowledge of -a more familiar acquaintance." - -She had fair hair, and soft blue eyes which, when her pretty mouth -smiled, lighted up with peculiar charm; she was rather tall and well -proportioned; an extremely attractive girl. - -The young men and women, particularly of La Cité, had formed a -literary society, at first called l'Académie de la Poudrière but -afterwards reorganized and renamed "from the age of its members" La -Société du Printemps. - -Suzanne was the president of this society. They used to discuss such -questions as these: "Does an element of mystery make love more -agreeable?" "Can there be a friendship between a man and a woman in -the same way as between two women or two men?" and the like. - -Suzanne seems to have been inclined to treat young theological -students in somewhat the same way as fishermen play salmon when they -are "killing" them. Her friends expostulated with her on her cruelty. - -Gibbon, who had the reputation of being the son of a wealthy -Englishman, caused her to forget the sighing students. At that time he -must have been an attractive youth--that is, if we can put any -confidence in her own description of him. After praising his beautiful -hair and aristocratic hand, his air of good-breeding, and his -intellectual face and his vivacity of expression, she crowns her -encomium by declaring that he understood the respect due to women, and -that his courtesy was easy without verging on familiarity. She adds: -"He dances moderately well." - -They became affianced lovers. Years afterwards, Gibbon in his -autobiography declared that he had no cause to blush at recollecting -the object of his choice. "Though my love," he says, "was disappointed -of success, I am rather proud that I was once capable of feeling such -a pure and exalted sentiment. The personal attractions of Mademoiselle -Susan Curchod were embellished by the virtues and talents of her mind. -Her fortune was humble, but her family was respectable." - -He visited at her parents' home--"happy days," he called them--in the -mountains of Burgundy, and the connection was honourably encouraged. -She seems to have made it a condition of her engagement that he should -always live in Switzerland. When he returned to England in 1758 he -found that his father opposed the match, and evidently his love -speedily cooled. The absence of letters does not necessarily prove -that none were written, but certainly there was no lively -correspondence, and at length, after a lapse of four years, he calmly -informs the young lady that he must renounce her for ever, and he lays -the blame on his father, who, he says, considered it cruelty to desert -him and send him prematurely to the grave, and cowardice to trample -underfoot his duty to his country. - -Considering the fact that Father Gibbon was busily engaged in -dissipating his fortune, and had endured his son's absence for many -years, this excuse strikes one as decidedly thin. At the end of his -letter of renunciation he desires to be remembered to Suzanne's father -and mother. Pastor Curchod had been dead two years, and Suzanne was -then living in Geneva, where she was supporting herself and her mother -by teaching. - -Just ten years after his first arrival at Lausanne, Gibbon made a -visit there on that memorable journey to Rome which resulted in the -writing of his history. He made no attempt to see Suzanne, who seems -to have deceived herself with the hope that his indifference was only -imaginary. She wrote him that for five years she had sacrificed to -this chimera by her "unique and inconceivable behavior." She begged -him on her knees to convince her of her madness in loving him and to -end her uncertainty. - -She got a letter from him that brought her to her senses. She replied -that she had sacrificed her happiness not to him but, rather, to an -imaginary being which could have existed only in a silly, romantic -brain like hers, and, having had her eyes opened, he resumed his place -as a mere man with all other men; indeed, although she had so -idealized him that he seemed to be the only man she could have ever -loved, he was now least attractive to her because he bore the least -possible resemblance to her chimerical ideal. - -Gibbon chronicled in his diary in September, 1763, the receipt of one -of Suzanne's letters, and in questionable French he called her "a -dangerous and artificial girl" ("_une fille dangereux et -artificielle_") and adds:--"This singular affair in all its details -has been very useful to me; it has opened my eyes to the character of -women and will long serve as a safeguard against the seductions of -love." - -Suzanne was no Cassandra, either; the very next year she married the -young Genevan banker, Jacques Necker, then minister for the Republic -of Geneva at Paris. - -About two years later Gibbon wrote to his friend, J. B. Holroyd:-- - -"The Curchod (Madame Necker) I saw in Paris. She was very fond of me, -and the husband particularly civil. Could they insult me more cruelly? -Ask me every evening to supper; go to bed and leave me alone with his -wife. What an impertinent security! It is making an old lover of -mighty little consequence. She is as handsome as ever; seems pleased -with her fortune rather than proud of it." - -The Platonic friendship was never again ruffled; if anything it grew -more confidential and almost sentimental. The Neckers visited Gibbon -in London more than once, and, when political and financial storms -drove them from Paris, Gibbon found their Barony of Copet (as he -spells it--he was not very strong in spelling!) a most delightful -harbour, though he was too indolent to go there very often. This was -in after years, when Lausanne again became his home. - -He had published the first volume of his history of "The Decline and -Fall of the Roman Empire," and had immediately leaped into fame. The -same year Necker was made Director of the Treasury of France, and -began that remarkable career of success and disappointment. Perhaps -his greatest glory was his daughter, afterwards so well known as -Madame de Staël, whose loyalty to him in all the vicissitudes of his -life was one of her loveliest characteristics. - -Gibbon was back in Lausanne again in 1783; he seems to have reckoned -time in lustrums, his dates there being 1753, 1763 and 1783, and he -returned to London in 1793 where he died the following year, just a -century after Voltaire was born. He certainly had pleasant memories of -Lausanne and, after losing his one public office, and the salary which -came in so handy, he formed what his friends called the mad project of -taking up his permanent residence there. This came about through his -old-time friend, Georges Deyverdun, who through the death of relatives -and particularly of an aristocratic old aunt, had come into -possession of the estate known as La Grotte, one of the most -interesting historical buildings in the town, with memories covering -centuries of ecclesiastical history. He and Deyverdun formed a project -whereby the two should combine their housekeeping resources and live -in a sort of mutually dependent independence. - -Gibbon had a very pretty wit. A year or two after he had taken this -decisive step, had bade a long farewell to the "_fumum et opes -strepitumque Romae_," and had sold his property and moved with his -books to Lausanne, the report reached London that the celebrated Mr. -Gibbon, who had retired to Switzerland to finish his valuable history, -was dead. Gibbon wrote his best friend, Holroyd, who was now Lord -Sheffield:--"There are several weighty reasons which would incline me -to believe that the intelligence may be true. Primo, It must one day -be true; and therefore may very probably be so at present. Secundo, We -may always depend on the impartiality, accuracy and veracity of an -English newspaper."--And so he goes on. - -In another letter, after speaking of his old enemy, the gout, and -assuring Sheffield that he had never regretted his exile, he pays his -respects to his fellow-countrymen: "The only disagreeable -circumstance," he says, "is the increase of a race of animals with -which this country has been long infested, and who are said to come -from an island in the Northern Ocean. I am told, but it seems -incredible, that upwards of forty thousand English, masters and -servants, are now absent on the Continent." - -Byron, a third of a century later, had the same ill opinion of his -fellow-countrymen:--"Switzerland," he wrote Moore, "is a curst selfish -country of brutes, placed in the most romantic regions of the world. I -never could bear the inhabitants and still less their English -visitors." - -In a somewhat different spirit Lord Houghton pays his respects to the -throng of foreigners who find pleasure and recreation and health in -Switzerland. He says:-- - - "Within the Switzer's varied land - When Summer chases high the snow, - You'll meet with many a youthful band - Of strangers wandering to and fro: - Through hamlet, town and healing bath - They haste and rest as chance may call; - No day without its mountain-path, - No path without its waterfall. - - "They make the hours themselves repay - However well or ill be shared, - Content that they should wing their way, - Unchecked, unreckoned, uncompared: - For though the hills unshapely rise - And lie the colours poorly bright,-- - They mould them by their cheerful eyes - And paint them with their spirits light. - - "Strong in their youthfulness they use - The energies their souls possess; - And if some wayward scene refuse - To pay its part of loveliness,-- - Onward they pass nor less enjoy - For what they leave;--and far from me - Be every thought that would destroy - A charm of that simplicity!" - -Gibbon and Deyverdun were remarkably congenial; interested in the same -studies and the same people. Which was the more indolent of the two it -would be hard to say. But by this time Gibbon had grown into the -comically grotesque figure which somehow adds to his fascination. He -had become excessively stout; his little "potato-nose" was lost -between his bulbous cheeks; his chin was bolstered up by the flying -buttress of much superfluous throat. He had red hair. A contemporary -poem describes him:-- - - "His person looked as funnily obese - As if a pagod, growing large as man, - Had rashly waddled off its chimney-piece, - To visit a Chinese upon a fan. - Such his exterior; curious 'twas to scan! - And oft he rapped his snuff-box, cocked his snout, - And ere his polished periods he began - Bent forward, stretching his forefinger out, - And talked in phrases round as he was round about." - -Early in his career Gibbon was rather careless in his dress, but he -could not afford not to be in style as the lion of Lausanne, and he -had any number of changes of apparel. He had a _valet de chambre_, a -cook who was not put out if he had forty, or even fifty, guests at a -dinner, and who received wages of twelve or fifteen livres a month--a -little more than a dollar a week, but money went farther in those -primitive days--he had a gardener, a coachman and two other men. -Altogether he paid out for service a little more than eleven hundred -livres a year. He spent generously, also, for various magazines and -other periodicals, French and English, and he was constantly adding to -his library. After the French Revolution, when many French émigrés -came to Lausanne, there were loud complaints at the increased cost of -living. - -In 1788 Gibbon required a new maid-servant and his faithful friend, -Madame de Séverin, recommended one to him in these terms:-- - -"She will make confitures, compotes, winter-salads, dried preserves in -summer; she will take charge of the fine linen and will herself look -after the kitchen service. She will keep everything neat and orderly -in the minutest details. She will take care of the silver in the -English fashion; she can do the ironing; she can set the table in -ornamental style. You must entrust everything to her (except the wine) -by count; so many candles, so many wax-tapers in fifty-pound boxes; so -much tea, coffee and sugar. The oftener the counting is made, the more -careful they are; three minutes every Sunday will suffice. I have -excepted nothing of what can be expected of a housekeeper. She will -look after the poultry-yard. She will make the ices and all the pastry -and all the bonbons, if desired, but it is more economical to buy the -latter." - -Gibbon was generous to others; he subscribed to various charities and -he paid all the expenses of an orphan boy, Samuel Pache. - -Lord Sheffield's daughter, Maria Holroyd, could not understand why he -should prefer Lausanne to London. She declared that there was not a -single person there whom he could meet on a footing of equality or on -his height; she thought it was a proof of the power of flattery. But -there were always distinguished visitors at Lausanne, and Gibbon knew -them all. His letters are full of references to the celebrities whom -he is cultivating. - -He writes to Lady Sheffield to tell her how he "walked on our terrace" -with Mr. Tissot, the celebrated physician; Mr. Mercier, the author of -the "Tableau de Paris;" the Abbé Raynal, author of "L'Histoire -Philosophique des Etablissements et du Commerce des Européens dans les -deux Indes," the clever free-thinker with whom Dr. Johnson refused to -shake hands because he was an infidel; M. and Mme. Necker; the Abbé de -Bourbon, a natural son of Louis XV; the hereditary Prince of -Brunswick; Prince Henry of Prussia; "and a dozen counts, barons and -extraordinary persons, among whom was a natural son of the Empress of -Russia." - -In London, great as he was (even though he was a Lieutenant Colonel -Commandant and Member of Parliament), he had found himself eclipsed by -larger and brighter planets; in Lausanne he was the bright particular -star. "I expected," he says, "to have enjoyed, with more freedom and -solitude, myself, my friend, my books and this delicious paradise; but -my position and character make me here a sort of public character and -oblige me to see and be seen." - -He used to give great dinners. Thus, in 1792, the beautiful and witty -Duchess of Devonshire made a visit to Lausanne and Gibbon gave her a -dinner with fourteen covers. The year before he gave a ball at which -at midnight one hundred and fifty guests sat down to supper. He was -well pleased with it and boasted that "the music was good, the lights -splendid, the refreshments abundant." He himself went to bed at two -o'clock in the morning and left the others to dance till seven. It was -as common in those days, even in Calvinistic Lausanne, to dance all -night as it is now in stylish society. He had assemblies every Sunday -evening, and rarely did a day pass without his either dining out or -entertaining guests at his own hospitable board. - -In a pleasure-loving community like that of Lausanne eating was one of -the chief employments of life. On their menus they had all kinds of -game, for hunting was one of the recreations of the gentry of the lake -shore, and they brought home hares, partridges, quails, wood-cock -from the Jura, heath-hens, roe-bucks and that royal game, the -wild-boar, not to speak of the red foxes and an occasional wolf or -bear. - -A party would leave one house and drive or ride out into the country -and come in upon some baronial family which would be hard put to it to -accommodate so many--ladies and gentlemen and their valets and maids. -On such occasions they would have to send out and borrow porcelain -plates, glass compote dishes, silverware of every kind. How they -managed the cooking for such large dinner-parties is a mystery. On one -occasion my Lord Bruce gave a ball in honour of the Queen of England's -birthday. There were between one and two hundred people invited. Fifty -sat down in the big room of the Redout, twenty in the Green Room. On -an earlier occasion the genial Prince of Würtemberg gave a ball and -eighty sat down to a supper costing fifteen louis d'or for each -person. - -On less formal evenings the guests, after eating their dinner, would -go to some other house and have a "veillé," where they played such -games as "Twelve Questions" or "Commerce" or "Loto" or took part in -acting charades. - -One season La Générale de Charrière wrote a little play in verse -entitled "L'Oiseau vert"--"The Green Bird." This mythical creature -personated Truth, just as Maeterlinck's "Blue Bird" personates -Happiness. The Green Bird is consulted by various characters and -replies in piquant verse. Mr. Gibbon, who is represented as "un gros -homme de très bonne façon," asks the bird to indicate his country, and -the bird replies that, by his gentle and polished mien, he would be -taken for a Frenchman; by his knowledge, his energy, his writings and -his success, his wit, his philosophy, the depth of his genius, it -might be suspected that he was an Englishman; but his real country is -that to which his heart had brought him, where he is loved, and they -tell him so, and where he must spend his life. Gibbon used to speak of -himself as a Swiss--_nous autres Suisses_--until the French Revolution -broke out; that scared him. - -They also had musicales. Deyverdun liked to play the spinet. One -evening the Saxon Comte de Cellemberg, being present at the house of -the Saint-Cierges', "sang delicious airs and played the clavecin like -a great master." On another occasion Madame de Waalwyck, -daughter-in-law to Madame d'Orges, gave a concert at which all the -chief musicians of Lausanne, more than twenty in number, took part. -Again, Benjamin Constant de Rebecque, who afterwards won fame by -calling Napoleon a Genghis Khan,--he was one of the great men of his -day,--made his appearance as a musician, and a Herr Köppen, in the -service of the Duchesse de Courland, played the flute and made up such -horrible faces and grimaces that people could not help laughing. - -They also had elaborate picnics on the shores of the lake, or in the -glorious forest back of the city. Their favourite place was the grove -of Saint-Sulpice. There they would spread a great table under the -trees and have chocolate, coffee, good butter, and thick cream at -noon. To one of these festivities came the Duchess of Würtemberg in -grand style, in a coach drawn by six horses, and dressed in a taffetas -robe and a tremendous hat. The real picnic dinner followed and all had -huge appetites, fostered by the open air. Then appeared in the -distance a great boat accompanied by musicians. Young girls, dressed -like shepherds, presented baskets of flowers. A touch of distinction -was added by the arrival of the bishop. Every one was gay and happy. -Déjardin and his musicians played. They had country dances, -allemandes and rondes. It was a pretty sight--the gay equipages and -liveries, the pretty girls. The people of Saint-Sulpice clustered -around. The rustic touch was communicated by sheep and cows. Merry -children were there to take an interest in the festivity. The duchess -sat in an armchair, holding a white parasol over her head. More or -less damage was done to the property of the inhabitants, and they made -it up by taking a collection which, when counted, amounted to forty -crowns. At this same Saint-Sulpice, Napoleon, when First Consul, in -1800 reviewed the army that was to fight later at Marengo. - -It must not be supposed, however, that Gibbon's laziness and his -dislike of exercise prevented him from working. Delightful invitations -could not allure him from his work. Often, as his History neared -completion, he had to spend not only the mornings but also the -evenings in his library. The fourth volume was completed in June, -1784, the fifth in May, 1786, and the last on June 27, 1787. - -The year after the last volume was published his friend Deyverdun, who -had been for some time in failing health, passed away. He bequeathed -to Gibbon for life the furniture in the apartment which he occupied. -There is no known inventory of it, but we know what gave distinction -to the grand salon--tapestried armchairs, tall pier-glass, marble and -gilt console table, crystal lustres, bronze candelabras, a fine, old -clock in carved and gilded black wood, and other luxurious articles. -He left him also the entire and complete use and possession of La -Grotte, its dependencies, and the tools and utensils for caring for -it. He was to make all repairs and changes necessary and pay his legal -heir, Major Georges de Molin de Montagny, the sum of four thousand -francs, and an annuity of thirty louis neufs or, if he desired, he -might purchase the property for thirty-five thousand francs. Gibbon -was in London at the time, superintending the publication of his -History; he had to come back to Lausanne and to a quite different -existence. He entered into amicable relations with Major de Montagny. -He lent him money and was entirely willing to take La Grotte in -accordance with the will. He began to make improvements in the estate -and he tells how he had arranged his library, or rather his two -libraries--"book-closets," they used to be called--and their -antechamber so that he could shut the solid wooden doors of the -twenty-seven bookcases in such a way that it seemed like a bookless -apartment. - -He boasts of his increasing love for Nature: - -"The glories of the landscape I have always enjoyed; but Deyverdun has -almost given me a taste for minute observation, and I can now dwell -with pleasure on the shape and color of the leaves, the various hues -of the blossoms, and the successive progress of vegetation. These -pleasures are not without cares; and there is a white acacia just -under the windows of my library which, in my opinion, was too closely -pruned last Autumn, and whose recovery is the daily subject of anxiety -and conversation. - -"My romantic wishes led sometimes to an idea which was impracticable -in England, the possession of an house and garden, which should unite -the society of town with the beauties and freedom of the country. This -idea is now realized in a degree of perfection to which I never -aspired, and if I could convey in words a just picture of my library, -apartments, terrace, wilderness, vineyard, with the prospect of land -and water terminated by the mountains; and this position at the gate -of a populous and lively town where I have some friends and many -acquaintances, you would envy or rather applaud the singular propriety -of my choice." - -He says further on in the same letter: - -"The habits of female conversation have sometimes tempted me to -acquire the piece of furniture, a wife, and could I unite in a single -woman, the virtues and accomplishments of half a dozen of my -acquaintance, I would instantly pay my addresses to the -Constellations." - -The requirements were that one should be as a mistress; the second, a -lively entertaining acquaintance; the third, a sincere good-natured -friend; the fourth should preside with grace and dignity at the head -of his table and family; the fifth, an excellent economist and -housekeeper; the sixth, a very useful nurse! - -It was suggested to him by Madame Necker that he might do well to -marry, though she assured him, with, perhaps a bit of malice, that to -marry happily one must marry young. He thus expressed himself -regarding the state of celibacy:-- - -"I am not in love with any of the hyaenas of Lausanne, though there -are some who keep their claws tolerably well pared. Sometimes, in a -solitary mood, I have fancied myself married to one or another of -those whose society and conversation are the most pleasing to me; but -when I have painted in my fancy all the probable consequences of such -a union, I have started from my dream, rejoiced in my escape, and -ejaculated a thanksgiving that I was still in possession of my natural -freedom." - -Perhaps it was fortunate that Gibbon did not marry Suzanne; we might -not have had the History of Rome; we should not have had Madame de -Staël! - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -AROUND THE LAKE LEMAN - - -It was a cozy and restful day and pleasant indoors, sheltered from the -driving rain. I had a fine romp with the children in the nursery. I -was delighted to find that the oldest, Lawrence,--a fine, manly little -chap with big brown eyes--was fond of music and was already -manifesting considerable talent. The twin girls, Ethel and Barbara, -were as similar as two green peas; they were quick-witted enough to -see that I could hardly tell them apart and they enjoyed playing -little jokes on me. Toward the end of the afternoon, becoming restless -from being so long indoors, I proposed taking a walk. Lawrence wanted -to go with us, and his mother dressed him appropriately, and he and -his father and I sallied out together. - -We had hardly reached the big bridge when Will uttered some words -which I could not understand. "What is that?" I asked. - -"It is a weather proverb in the local dialect." - -"Please repeat it slowly." - -He did so: "Leis niollez van d'avau devétion lo sélau." - -"Give it up," I said. - -"It means: 'When the clouds fly down the lake and give a glimpse of -the sun, it is a sign of fair weather.' The wind has changed." - -He had hardly uttered this prophecy when there was a break in the west -and a gleam of sunlight flitted across the upper part of the town, -though down below all was still smothered in grey mist. - -"It is surely going to be pleasant to-morrow, and I think we had -better arrange to make a tour of the lake. We can go either by the -automobile or on the water by motor-boat. We can do it by the car in a -day; but if we go by boat we might have to be gone a couple of days or -even longer. A storm like this is likely to be followed by a spell of -fair weather." - -"I should vote for the boat," said I. - -The next morning was perfectly cloudless. The air was deliciously -bracing and everything was propitious for our trip. We had an early -breakfast. Emile was waiting to take us down to the quai at Ouchy. A -graceful--and from its lines evidently swift-running--motor-boat was -moored alongside the Place de la Navigation. The chauffeur drove off -to leave the car at a convenient garage and, while we were making -ourselves at home on the boat, he came hurrying back to take charge of -the engine. This paragon was equally apt on sea and on land. We were -soon off and darting out into the lake which in the early morning, -when no wind had as yet arisen, lay like a mirror. Looking back, we -had the steep slope of the Jorat clearly outlined; the city of -Lausanne clinging to its sides, and the cathedral perched on its -height and dominating all with its majestic dignity. Gleaming among -the trees could be seen dozens of attractive villas--"the white -houses," as Dumas cleverly said, resembling "a flock of swans drying -themselves in the sun." Many of these would be worthy a whole chapter -of history and romance, the former "noble" possessors having connected -themselves with literary, educational, or military events in all parts -of Europe. But, seen from the lake, they were like the details of a -magnificent panoramic picture. - -As a wild duck flies, the distance from Ouchy to Vevey is only about -twelve miles across the blue water; but we hugged the shore, so as to -get the nearest possible views. Emile was an admirable cicerone and -pointed out to us many interesting places. As we came abreast the -valley of the Paudèze we could see some of the eleven arches of the -viaduct of La Conversion. - -"You see that hill just to the East of the city," said Will. "That is -Pierra-Portay. There, in 1826, some vintagers found several tombs made -of calcareous stone and they were quite rich in objects of the stone -age--hatchets and weapons and other things, besides skeletons. All -along the shores of the lake similar discoveries were made. The people -didn't know much about such things then, and many were opened -carelessly and the relics were often scattered and lost. I think in -1835 about a hundred were opened. In one of them, covered with a flat -stone, there were articles from the bronze age--spiral bracelets, -bronze hatchets, brass plaques ornamented with engraved designs. -Probably when they were made the lake was much higher. There are -traditions that the water once bathed the base of the mountains, and -that there were rings, to fasten boats to, on Saint Triphon, which -must then have been an island. Almost every town along the shore has -its prehistoric foundation. The name of the forest beyond -Lausanne,--you can see it from here,--Sauvabelin, which means _sylva -Bellini_, suggests Druidical rites and about thirty tombs were found -there with interesting remains. And just above the Mont de Lutry, -above the viaduct--where you see those arches--a huge old oak-tree was -struck by lightning and overturned; in its roots were a number of deep -bowls, cups and earthen plates bearing the name of Vindonissa, which -was an important Roman settlement, and also fragments of knives and -other copper utensils, probably used for sacrifices, perhaps hidden -there by some Druid priest." - -It was a queer notion to spring this recondite subject when we were -flying along the crystalline waters of the lake and new splendours of -scenery were every second bursting into view. I did not even care very -much to know the names of the multitudinous mountains that seemed to -be holding a convention on the horizon, though Emile told us that -those were the Rochers de Verraux, those the Rochers de Naye, and -others various Teeth--La Dent de Jaman, La Dent de Morcles, La Dent du -Midi. I did learn to distinguish the latter, and also Le Grand -Muveran, and especially La Tour d'Aï, where I knew that a wonderful -echo--_un écho railleur_--has her habitat and mocks whatever sounds -are flung in her direction. - -Perfectly beautiful also stood out the peak of what the Western -"Cookie" called "the grand Combine"--like the pyramid of Cheops -beatified and changed into sugar. As we expected to stop at the Castle -of Chillon I had brought with me an amusing "Guide" to that historic -shrine and I discovered in it a description of La Dent du Midi. It -says:-- - -"What a magnificent object that Dent du Midi is, if we regard it, -standing out so clearly from its base to its summit, rising so boldly -and by endless degrees from the depth of the valley up to the gigantic -wall, the strata of which are intersected by narrow passes, where the -snow lodges and gives birth to the glaciers, the largest of which are -spread out like a streak of silver as far down as the pasture-fields. -In its central and unique position, the Dent du Midi, with its seven -irregular peaks, crowns and worthily completes the picture." - -Then the author goes off into poetry:-- - - "Dost thou know it, the dull blue wave - Which bathes the ancient Wall of Chillon? - Hast seen the grand shadow of the rocks of Arvel - Reflected in that azure sea? - - Knowest thou Naye and its steep crest - And the toothed ridge of Jaman? - Hast thou seen them, tell me, hast thou seen them? - Come here to these scenes and never leave them!" - -[Illustration: LA DENT DU MIDI FROM MONTREUX.] - -I suppose it is really one's duty to know the names of the mountains, -just as one must know the botanical names of flowers. Nevertheless, -only within comparatively few years have distinctive names been -actually fastened to special mountains. The names, foreign to English, -when translated into English are often to the last degree banal. A -typical example is the Greek headland with its high-sounding -appellation, Kunoskephale, which means merely Dog's Head; and those -that first gave the Alps a generic name could not devise anything -better than a word which means "White." What would not the imaginative -American Indians have called Mont Blanc! Very probably the Keltic -inhabitants of these regions, with their poetic nature, would have -named it something better than just "White Mountain!" The Romans might -have the practical ability to build roads over the hills, but they -could not name them! - -Juste Olivier, however, goes into ecstasies over the names of some of -the Swiss mountains. He says:-- - -"What more charming, more fresh and morning-like than the name of the -Blümlisalp? What more gloomy than that of the Wetterhorn, more solid -than that of the Stockhorn, more incomparable than that of the -Jungfrau, more aerial and whiter than that of the Titlis, more superb -and high sounding than that of the Kamor, more sparkling and vivid -than that of the Silberhorn, more terrible than that of the -Finsteraarhorn which falls and echoes like an avalanche!" - -He is still more enthusiastic over the Alps of Vaud:--Moléson with its -round and abundant mass so frequently sung by the shepherds of -Gruyères, the slender, white, graceful forms of La Dent de Lis and Le -Rubli. And he finds in the multitude of names ending in -_az_--Dorannaz, Javernaz, Oeusannaz, Bovannaz--something peculiarly -alpestrine and bucolic, as if one heard in them the horn-notes blown -by the herdsmen, and their long cadenzas with the echoes from the -mountain walls; and the solemn lowing of the cows as they crop the -flowery grass and shake the big copper bells fastened to their necks. -There is an endless study in names of places as well as in names of -people. Often centuries of history may be detected in a single word. - -Meantime we have been speeding along, cutting through the fabric of -the lake as if we were a knife. Behind us radiated two long, dark blue -lines tipped with bubbles and mixing the reflections of the gracious -shores. Oh, this wonderful lake! Vast tomes have been devoted to its -poetic, picturesque, scientific characteristics. Almost every inch of -its vast depths has been explored. No longer has the wily boatman, as -he steers his lateen-sailed _lochère_, any excuse for telling his -occasional passenger (as he used to tell James Fenimore Cooper) that -the water is bottomless. Every fish that swims in it is known and -every bird that floats on its broad bosom. - -A lake is by no means a lazy body of water and Leman, or Lake Geneva, -as it is often called, is not so much a lake as it is a swollen river. -If the Rhône is an artery, the lake is a sort of aneurism; there is a -current from one end to the other which keeps it constantly changing. -Then, owing to atmospheric conditions, at least twice a year (as in -even the most stagnant ponds) the top layers sink to the bottom and -the bottom layers come to the top. There is also a sort of tide or -tidal fluxes, called _seiches_. The word means originally the flats -exposed by low water, but is applied here to variations averaging ten -inches or so in the level of the lake, but sometimes greatly exceeding -that. There were three or four in one day in September, 1600, when the -lake fell five feet and boats were stranded. De Saussure, one August -day in 1763, measured a sudden fall of 1.47 meters, or four and a half -feet, in ten minutes' time. Eight years previously, the effect of the -great earthquake which destroyed Lisbon was noticed in the vibration -of the lake. Various explanations of this curious phenomenon have been -given. One was that the Rhône was stopped and, as it were, piled up at -the so-called Banc du Travers--a bar or shallow between Le Petit Lac -and Le Grand Lac which begins on a line between La Pointe de -Promenthoux on the north and La Pointe de Nernier in Savoy on the -south. It is probably due to the sweeping force of the winds. When -there is a heavy storm waves on the lake have been observed and -measured not less than thirty-five meters long and a meter and seven -tenths in height. - -James Fenimore Cooper in his novel "The Headsman of Berne," published -anonymously while he was United States Consul at Lyons, thus describes -this wonderful body of water:--"The Lake of Geneva lies nearly in the -form of a crescent, stretching from the southwest towards the -northeast. Its northern or the Swiss shore is chiefly what is called, -in the language of the country, a _côte_, or a declivity that admits -of cultivation, and, with few exceptions, it has been, since the -earliest periods of history, planted with the generous vine. - -"Here the Romans had many stations and posts, vestiges of which are -still visible. The confusion and the mixture of interests that -succeeded the fall of the Empire gave rise in the middle ages to -various baronial castles, ecclesiastical towns and towers of defence -which still stand on the margin of this beautiful sheet of water, or -ornament the eminences a little inland.... The shores of Savoy are -composed with unmaterial exceptions of advanced spurs of the high -Alps, among which towers Mont Blanc, like a sovereign seated in the -midst of a brilliant court, the rocks frequently rising from the -water's edge in perpendicular masses. None of the lakes of this -remarkable region possess a greater variety of scenery than that of -Geneva, which changes from the smiling aspect of fertility and -cultivation at its lower extremity to the sublimity of a savage and -sublime nature at its upper." - -It seems almost incredible, but Lausanne lies a good deal nearer to -the North Pole than Boston does. The degree of latitude that sweeps -across the lake where we started cuts just a little below Quebec, -nearly touches Duluth and goes a bit south of Seattle. There are -really three lakes, forming one which, in its whole extent, has a -shore-line of one hundred and sixty-seven kilometers, the north shore -being twenty-three longer than the south. Its greatest width is -thirteen and eight-tenths kilometers, and it covers an area of about -five hundred and eighty-two square kilometers. Its maximum depth is -309.7 meters. It is a true rock basin. The Upper Lake is, for the most -part, a level plain, filled by the greyish-muddy Rhône which uses it -as a sort of clearing-house. Being denser than the lake, the water of -the river sinks and leaves on the bottom its perpetual deposits of -mud, coarser near the shore, finer the farther out one goes. When the -bottom of the Grand Lake is once reached, it is as flat as a -billiard-table. Sixty meters from the Castle of Chillon it is -sixty-four meters deep and shelves rapidly to three times that depth. - -Deep as it seems--for a thousand feet of perpendicular water is in -itself a somewhat awesome thought--still, in proportion to its -surface-extent, the lake is shallow. Pour out a tumbler of water on a -wooden chair and the comparative depth is greater. - -Pure as it seems to be--and the beauty of its colour is a proof of -it--the Rhône carries down from it to the sea a vast amount of organic -matter and, as it drains a basin of eight thousand square kilometers, -it is not strange that Geneva, which has used the lake-water for -drinking purposes since 1715, has occasionally suffered from typhoid -fever. In 1884 there were sixteen hundred and twenty-five cases; but, -since the intake-pipes have been carried farther into deep water, the -danger seems to have passed. Ancient writers supposed that the Rhône -ran through Lake Leman without mixing its waters; they did not know -that the lake is the Rhône. - -Emile told us that after the _bise_, that is, the northeast wind, had -blown for several days, the muddy water of the Rhône shows green along -the shore for several kilometers. This is called _les troublons du -Rhône_. He told us also that the lake-water is warmer than the air in -every month except April and May. I asked him if it ever froze over, -and he replied that there was a legend that once it did, but never -within his memory. - -One of the most interesting things in winter is the mirage. Almost -every day one can see the land looming; it seems as if there were -great castles and cities, and sometimes boats are sailing in the air. -Places that are out of sight rise up, and gigantic walls and colossal -quais appear where there are no such constructions. - -This _Fata Morgana_ gave ground for the magical Palace of the -Fairy--_le Palais de la Fée_--and is perhaps the basis of the legend -of the fairy skiff of the lake. Those that have the vision see it -drawn along by eight snow-white swans. In it sits a supernaturally -tall woman with golden locks and dressed in white robes, accompanied -by chubby sprites. If one's ears are keen enough one can hear the song -that she sings, accompanied by a beautiful harp. Wherever her bark -touches the shore bright flowers spring into bloom. Unlike many of the -magical inhabitants of the mountains, she is a beneficent creature. -Even the sight of her brings good fortune. But, since steamboats began -to ply up and down and across the blue waters of the lake, she has not -been seen; she was scared away. She appears only on post-cards -accompanied by the German words "Glück auf"--"Cheer up." - -"By the way," said Will, "did you know that the first steamboat to -sail on Lake Geneva was built by an American?" - -"No? What was his name?" - -"That I don't know; but he made a great success of it so that an -association was formed to go into competition with him with two new -boats and, when they were launched, they offered the American a -sovereign a day to let his boat lie idly at the dock. He accepted the -proposition and was spared all the worries of navigating the lake and -of seeing his profits cut down by opposition. That was about a century -ago." - -We were interrupted by an odd, droning noise from the direction of -Montreux and, looking back, we saw what might have been taken for one -of those huge birds, the _roc_, which we used to read about in the -Arabian Nights. It came rapidly nearer and we saw it was a -hydro-aeroplane darting down the lake. It must have been at least a -thousand feet in the air, but with the spyglass we could see the faces -of its passengers. - -"I'd like to go up in one of those," said Will, "but this tyrannical -little wife of mine has made me promise that I won't. Don't you think -that she is exhibiting an undue interference with her lord and -master?" - -"Am I not perfectly right, Uncle?" asked Ruth with a show of -indignation. "I suppose some time they will be made safe; but, till -they are, a man who has a wife and children has no business to take -such a risk. Suppose a _bise_ should suddenly come down from the -mountains." - -Of course I took Ruth's side; Will would not have liked it if I -hadn't; but I made up my mind then and there that, at the first -opportunity, I, not being cramped by any marital obligations, would -have a sail in a hydro-aeroplane. What is more, I carried out my -purpose. One day everything seemed to favour me; the weather was fine -and promised to continue so; Will and Ruth were occupied in some -domestic complication; so I went out ostensibly for a walk, but -hurried to the station and took a train for Vernex. I found the quai -where the hydro-aeroplane starts, and, having been told that it cost a -hundred francs, I had the passage-money ready in a bank-note. - -I have seen a wild fowl rise from the surface of an Adirondack lake; -the wings dash the water into foam, but after it has made a long, -white wake, it rises and speeds down the horizon. So, as soon as I -had taken my place with one other passenger, a Russian gentleman, the -motor was set in motion and we glided out on the lake. Then, with a -slight motion of the rudder, as our speed increased, we left the -surface and, in an easy incline, mounted high into the air. I liked it -all except the noise of the motor; that was deafening. - -My favourite dream has always had to do with an act of levitation. I -would seem to be standing on the great, granite step of my -grandfather's old house, and then by sheer will power lift -myself--only there was no sense of lifting--high out over the river -which flowed between the steep banks, a wide, calm stream, and, having -made a turn above the swaying elms, come back to my starting-point -without any sense of shock. - -This came nearest to that dream. I had no sense of fear at all. -Looking down, I could say with Tennyson's eagle, "The wrinkled sea -beneath me crawls." The whole lake lay, as it were, in the palm of my -hand. It was an indescribable panorama, flattened except where very -high hills arose, and in the distance an infinitude of blended -details. It was vastly more exciting than being on a mountain-top. The -wind whistled through the wires and almost took away my breath. -Thanks to having twice circled the lake--once by motor-boat and once -in the automobile--I knew pretty well what the towns were over which -we sailed. We made a wide circuit over Geneva and, mounting still -higher, cleared the crest of the Salève and then returned like an -arrow to Vernex. I now knew how an eagle feels when in splendid -spirals it soars up toward the sun until it is lost to human sight, -and then, with absolute command of its motions, descends to its eyrie -on the top of a primeval pine planted on the mountain's dizzy side. I -now knew how Icarus dared fit those wax-panoplied wings to his strong -arms and with mighty strokes ply the upper skies, looking down on the -sea which it was worth dying for to name through all the ages. - -Over this very lake once floated the balloon sent up by Madame de -Charrière de Bavois, kindled to enthusiasm by the invention of the -celebrated Montgolfier brothers. It was nearly two meters high and two -or three times that in circumference and was made of paper and a -network of wires. But it caught fire, and fell like a meteor, and -Lausanne forbade any more experiments of the sort without permission; -there was too great risk of setting the woods on fire. What would -Rousseau and Voltaire have said to see men flying a thousand feet -above their heads? But what at first seems like a miracle soon becomes -a commonplace and, now that I have been up in a "plane," ordinary -locomotion will seem rather tame. - - * * * * * - -But, to return to our trip around the lake. The buzzing -hydro-aeroplane sped over our heads, going at a tremendous clip and of -course filling us with wonder and admiration. While those above us -were free from every obstacle, except the air itself, which Kant, in -one of his poetic passages in the "Critique," shows is the very -support of the bird's flight, we were making good progress in the -"Hirondelle," running not far from the shore, but of course avoiding -the shelving edge of the _beine_--to use the local term. - -We were near enough to admire the beautiful villas which occupied -commanding and lovely sites at frequent intervals between Lutry and -Cully. When Emile pointed out Villette I wondered if Charlotte Brontë -got the name of her autobiographical romance from it. Pretty soon we -glided slowly by Vevey, where we could see the crowds of people on the -Place du Marché, and the green fields with scattered houses, and -enjoyed the tall trees and the fine old château de l'Aile and, farther -back, the noble tower of Saint Martin. - -Vevey has been rather unfortunate in its piers. In 1872 the -municipality began to build a solid and handsome structure along La -Place de l'Ancien Port. Several years were spent on it and it had been -completed about eighteen months when one hundred and nine meters--all -of the western part--suddenly, and without any warning, sank into the -lake. The physical explanation of the catastrophe was very simple. -Almost a hundred years earlier--in June and again in November, -1785--some of the houses on what was then La Rue du Sauveur, now La -Rue du Lac, being founded on the same unstable basis, gave way. It -happened again in 1809. The weight of the superimposed structure -caused the mud and gravel deposits to slide down into deeper water. -Even now one almost expects to see the white, gravelly beach, just -beyond, sink into the depths, with all the chattering washer-women who -use the lake as a bath-tub. Similar catastrophes have happened on -several other Swiss lakes. - -It was like a moving-picture to see the succession of interesting -places. Beyond Vévey-la-Tour were the clustered villas of La -Tour-de-Peilz, where Count Peter of Savoy once enjoyed the beauties -of the lake; then Clarens, suggesting memories of Rousseau and Byron. -Far up on the height we could see the Château des Crêtes. We made -beautiful scallops in around by Vernex, and doubled the picturesque -point on which Montreux roosts, and looked up to the far-away Dent de -Jaman; we skirted Territe and then came close under the frowning, -historic walls of Chillon. - -[Illustration: LAKE LEMAN AT VEVEY.] - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -A DIGRESSION AT CHILLON - - -Chillon is probably the best-known castle in Switzerland. It commands -the one pass between the mountains and the lake, and there, in the old -days, two horsemen could defend the passage against a host. On Mont -Sonchaux, a spur of the high crags of Naye, with Mont Arval rising on -the east, and torn with ravines and landslides, between the two -torrents, the Veraye and the Tinère, it stands, "a mass of towers -placed on a mass of rocks." - -We sailed all around, from one side of the bridge to the other, and -managed to approach near enough to clamber ashore. We fastened the -boat to a tree by the long _maille_, as they call the painter on the -lake. Then we went all over the ancient fortress. Happily the Canton -has at last awakened to the propriety of not merely keeping it in -repair, but also of restoring it to something like its pristine -condition. In the earlier castle Louis le Débonnaire confined his -kinsman, Count Walla, the friend of Lothaire, on the ground that he -was the instigator of that prince's revolt against his father. At that -time the country was a wilderness, and there was only a chapel where -now Montreux gathers a wealthy and luxurious population. Walla spent -many years in Chillon, but was ultimately transferred to the fortified -Island of Noirmontier. Then he was set free, and died in 835 in the -Abbey of Bobbio, sixteen leagues from Milan. - -In 1235, Duke Pierre de Savoy received the Province of Chamblais, -extending from Saint Bernard to the torrent of the Veveyse and to the -Arve on both sides of the lake. - -He erected many castles--one at Martigny, at the entrance to the pass -leading up to Saint Bernard; one at Evian, on the south side of the -lake; and still another at the village of Peilz--and he reconstructed -Chillon. Having mastered the Pays de Vaud, he governed with -moderation. He organized troops of archers and halberdiers, -established shooting-societies, and maintained strong garrisons at -various points. In 1265, Rodolphe, Duke of Hapsburg, invaded Vaud and -besieged Chillon. Pierre suddenly attacked him and won a great -victory. They took the duke prisoner, together with eighty barons, -lords, knights and nobles of the country. After this Pierre had things -his own way; he settled down at the Castle of Chillon and one of his -pleasures was to go out rowing on the lake. - -In 1358, when the plague ravaged Europe, the Jews were accused of -poisoning the water. "The Court of Justice of Chillon," says the local -hand-book, "caused these unhappies to be tortured and they would -confess and then were burnt." So roused against them were the -population that on one occasion a rabble forced the gates of the -castle and put a number of them to death. - -In Pierre's day it must have been a magnificent residence. Even now, -viewed with the eye of imagination, one can get some notion of what it -was in its period of splendour, though Thomas Jefferson Hogg, in his -"Journal of a Traveller," declares that it is ugly, with its -whitewashed walls crowned with a red-tiled roof. It is built in the -form of an irregular oval. In the centre is a high, square tower which -contained a great alarm-bell, the deep tones of which must have often -echoed over the waters to call the defenders to resist the attacks of -fierce enemies. On the north side are two ranges of crenelated walls -and three round towers. On the east is the massive square of the -principal tower, through which is the only entrance, formerly closed -by a drawbridge extending from the shore to the rock. The rooms where -the counts and their ladies dwelt in state were on the south side. On -the first floor is the great apartment once occupied by the Governor -of Chillon. In one of the rooms is a magnificent fireplace with -sculptured columns. In the story above are the chambers where knights -habited. Here are pillars richly carved, ornamented with ancient coats -of arms, and once draped with banners. Then come the chambers of the -duke and duchess, communicating by a private door. The duchess's -windows look down on the blue waters of the lake, while that of the -prince looks into the courtyard. - -[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF CHILLON.] - -Religion was not neglected in those days; in the chapel one admires -the beautiful ogive of the nave. From the Hall of Justice a stairway -leads down into the vaults below. These are caverns about a hundred -meters long. The floors are only eight feet above the lake, which goes -off very abruptly down to the deepest depths. These vaults are -partitioned off into chambers of different sizes, separated by narrow, -dark spaces and used for dungeons. Each of the subterranean cells -contains a row of pillars, surmounted by ogive arches. They are like -the sombre and almost magical dungeons under the ancient King Arkel's -castle, where Pélléas and his jealous brother grope in Maeterlinck's -marvellous drama. - -The last and largest of these terrible apartments is the one where -Bonivard was confined. It is entered by a low, narrow doorway, and is -divided by seven huge pillars, around one of which is the legendary -groove hollowed by the restless pacing of the prisoner's circling -feet. Above are several narrow slits admitting a dim light. On bright -days the light reflected from the lake casts a weird radiance on the -ceiling. Little trembling waves go chasing one another across. -Bonivard could tell when it was morning, for then the light is blue, -while in the afternoon it has a sickly, greenish hue. - -Francis Bonivard was born at Seyssel and was educated at Turin. At -twenty he became prior of Saint Victor, a small monastery near Geneva. -He joined the political organization, called "The Children of Geneva," -which was engaged in a revolt against the Bishop and Duke of Savoy. He -said--"I foresee that we shall finally do what our friends in Berne -have done--separate from Rome. I was twenty years old and I was led -like the others more by affection than by counsel, but God granted a -happy issue to all our foolish undertakings, and treated us like a -good father." - -The duke managed to capture him and imprisoned him for two years at -Gex and Gerolles. Later, he fell a second time into the duke's clutch. - -Bonivard tells how it happened:--"At Moudon I resolved to return to -Lausanne. When we were in the Jorat, lo, the Captain of the Castle of -Chillon, Antoine de Beaufort, with some of his companions, comes out -of the forest where he was concealed and approaches me suddenly. These -worthy gentlemen fall on me all at once and make me a prisoner by the -captain's order and, though I show them my passport, they carry me off -tied and bound to Chillon, where I was compelled to endure my second -suffering for six years." - -This was from 1530 till 1536. He was treated mildly at first, but -afterwards he was thrown into the dungeon and fastened to one of the -pillars. "I had so much time for walking," he says with a sort of grim -humour, "that I wore a little pathway in the rock, as if it had been -done with a hammer." - -In 1536 the Bernese sent troops to help Geneva, which was besieged by -Duke Charles III. Reinforced by the Genevese fleet after the relief of -Geneva, they in turn besieged Chillon. The governor with his escort -fled to Savoy and Bonivard was set free. His first words were:--"And -Geneva?" - -"Also free," was the laconic reply. - - * * * * * - -After Bern had conquered Savoy, Auguste de Luternan (an appropriate -name for a Lutheran) was the first Bernese bailiff of Chillon, and he -and his successors made various alterations in the buildings. In 1733 -the bailiwick was transferred to Vevey and just seventy years later -the castle became the property of Vaud. For some time it was -grievously neglected. For its sole garrison it had two gens-d'armes, -and it was used only as a military magazine and a prison. - -A prison? Ay! One must never forget the most illustrious prisoner ever -confined in its gloomy oubliettes--though, to tell the honest truth, -Chillon never had any oubliettes. Tartarin de Tarascon, tamer of -camels, destroyer of African lions, slayer of the super-Alpine -chamois--we see him passing disdainfully amid the attractions of the -glittering shops of Montreux, only to be arrested as a Russian -Nihilist and, under threat of being gagged unless he keep his mouth -shut, borne away to the very castle sacred to the memory of Bonivard, -in whom he had lost faith, since William Tell had become a myth! Here -is the vivid picture as chronicled by Daudet:-- - -"The carriage rolled across a drawbridge, between tiny shops where -trinkets were for sale--chamois-skin articles, pocket-knives, -button-hooks, combs and the like--passed under a low postern and came -to a stop in the grass-grown courtyard of an old castle flanked by -round pepper-box towers, with black balconies held up by beams. Where -was he? Tartarin understood when he heard the police captain talking -with the doorkeeper of the castle, a fat man in a Greek cap, shaking a -huge bunch of rusty keys. - -"'In solitary confinement?--But I haven't any more room. The rest of -them occupy all the--unless we put him in Bonivard's dungeon.' - -"'Put him in Bonivard's dungeon then; it's quite good enough for him,' -said the captain authoritatively. And his commands were obeyed. - -"This Castle of Chillon, which the President of the Alpine Club had -been for two days constantly talking about to his friends, the -Alpinists, and in which, by the irony of fate, he suddenly found -himself imprisoned without knowing why, is one of the historical -monuments of Switzerland. After having served as a summer residence of -the Counts of Savoy, then as a State prison, a dépôt of arms and -stores, it is now only an excuse for an excursion, like the Rigi-Kulm -or the Tellsplatte. There is however a police-station there and a -lock-up for drunkards and the wilder youths of the district; but such -inmates are rare, as La Vaud is a most peaceful canton; thus the -lock-up is for the most part untenanted and the keeper keeps his -winter fuel in it. So the arrival of all these prisoners had put him -in a bad humour, particularly when it occurred to him that he should -no longer be able to pilot people through the famous dungeons, which -was at that season attended with no little profit. - -[Illustration: THE PRISON OF BONIVARD IN THE CASTLE OF CHILLON.] - -"Filled with rage, he led the way and Tartarin timidly followed him, -making no resistance. A few worn steps, a musty corridor, smelling -like a cellar, a door as thick as a wall, with enormous hinges, and -there they were in a vast subterranean vault, with deeply worn floor -and solid Roman columns on which hung the iron rings to which in -former times prisoners of state were chained. A dim twilight -filtered in and the rippling lake was reflected through the narrow -loop-holes, which allowed only a slender strip of sky to be seen. - -"'This is your place,' said the jailer. 'Mind you do not go to the -end; the oubliettes are there.' - -"Tartarin drew back in horror. - -"'The oubliettes! _Noudiou!_' he exclaimed. - -"'What would you have, man alive? I was ordered to put you in -Bonivard's dungeon. I have put you in Bonivard's dungeon. Now, if you -have the wherewithal, I can supply you with some luxuries, such as a -mattress and a coverlet for the night.' - -"'Let me have something to eat first,' said Tartarin, whose purse -fortunately had not been taken from him. - -"The doorkeeper returned with fresh bread, beer and a Bologna sausage, -and these were eagerly devoured by the new prisoner of Chillon, who -had not broken his fast since the day before, and was worn out with -fatigue and emotion. While he was eating it on his stone bench, in the -dim light of the embrasure, the jailer was steadily studying him with -a good-natured expression. - -"'Faith,' said he, 'don't know what you have been doing and why you -are treated so severely....' - -"'Eh! _coquin de sort_, no more do I. I know nothing at all about it,' -replied Tartarin, with his mouth full. - -"'At any rate, one thing is certain--you don't look like a criminal -and I am sure you would never keep a poor father of a family from -gaining his living, eh? Well, then, I have upstairs a whole throng of -people who have come to see Bonivard's dungeon. If you will give me -your word to keep still and not attempt to escape--' - -"The worthy Tartarin at once gave his word and five minutes later he -saw his dungeon invaded by his old acquaintances of the Rigi-Kulm and -the Tellsplatte--the stupid Schwanthaler, the ineptissimus -Astier-Réhu, the member of the Jockey Club with his niece -(hum!--hum!), all the Cook's tourists. Ashamed and afraid of being -recognized, the unhappy man hid behind the pillars, retiring and -stealing away as he saw the tourists approach, preceded by his jailer -and that worthy's rigmarole, recited in a lugubrious tone, 'This is -where the unfortunate Bonivard--' - -"They came forward slowly, retarded by the disputes of the two -savants, who were all the time quarrelling, ready to fly at each -other--one waving his camp-stool, the other his travelling-bag, in -fantastic attitudes which the half-light magnified along the vaulted -dungeon roof. - -"By the very exigency of retreat, Tartarin found himself at last near -the opening of the oubliettes--a black pit, open level with the floor, -breathing an odor of past ages, damp and chilling. Alarmed, he paused, -crouched in a corner, pulling his cap over his eyes; but the damp -saltpeter of the walls affected him and suddenly a loud sneeze, which -made the tourists start back, betrayed him. - -"'Hold! Bonivard!' exclaimed the saucy little Parisienne in the -Directoire hat, whom the member of the Jockey Club called his niece. - -"The Tarasconian did not permit himself to display any signs of being -disturbed. - -"'These oubliettes are really very interesting,' he remarked, in the -most natural tone in the world, as if he also were a mere -pleasure-seeker visiting the dungeon. Then he joined the other -tourists, who smiled when they recognized the Alpinist of the -Rigi-Kulm, the mainspring of the famous ball. - -"'_Hé! Mossié!--ballir, 'dantsir!_' - -"The comical outline of the little fairy Schwanthaler presented itself -before him ready to dance. Truly he had a great mind to dance with -her. Then, not knowing how to get rid of this excited bit of -womanhood, he offered his arm and gallantly showed her his -dungeon--the ring whereon the prisoner's chain had been riveted; the -traces of his footsteps worn in the rock around the same column; and, -hearing Tartarin speak with such facility, the good lady never -suspected that he who was walking with her was also a state -prisoner--a victim to the injustice and the wickedness of man. -Terrible, for instance, was the parting, when the unfortunate -'Bonivard,' having led his partner to the door, took leave of her with -the smile of a society gentleman, saying, 'No, thank you,--I will stay -here a moment longer.' She bowed, and the jailer, who was on the -alert, locked and bolted the door to the great astonishment of all. - -"What an insult! He was bathed in the perspiration of agony, as he -listened to the exclamations of the departing visitors. Fortunately -such torture as this was not inflicted on him again that day. The bad -weather deterred tourists...." - -In the morning he is rudely awakened, and brought before the prefect, -charged with being the dreaded Russian incendiary and assassin, -Manilof. - -It is soon made manifest that there is a dreadful mistake. The -prefect, angry at having been sent for under false pretences, cries in -a terrible voice:--"Well, then, what are you doing here?" - -"'That is just what I want to know,' replies the V. C. A., with all -the assurance of innocence." - -And Tartarin is set free. Verily, we look among the names -scribbled on the walls--names of great writers and men of less -distinction--Rousseau, Byron, Victor Hugo, George Sand, Shelley, -Eugène Sue--for the immortal autograph of Tartarin de Tarascon. It -must have been carried off bodily, like the picture of Mona Lisa! But -Tartarin himself is just as much an inhabitant of the vaults as -Byron's Bonivard. And was not the policeman whom we caught sight of on -the quai at Montreux the very one whose long blue capote was turned so -persistently toward the omnibus in which rode the Tarasconian -quartet? - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -LORD BYRON AND THE LAKE - - -Lord Byron, in 1816, landed on this very spot with his friend John Cam -Hobhouse. They came over from Clarens, probably in a _naue_, whose -name, as well as its shape, harked back to olden days. Byron wrote -about it:-- - -"I feel myself under the charm of the spirit of this country. My soul -is repeopled with Nature. Scenes like this have been created for the -dwelling-place of the Gods. Limpid Leman, the sail of thy barque in -which I glide over the surface of thy mirror appears to me a silent -wing which separates me from a noisy life. I loved formerly the -warring of the furious ocean; but thy soft murmuring affects me like -the voice of a sister. - -"Chillon! thou art a sacred place. Thy pavement is an altar, for the -footsteps of Bonivard have left their traces there. Let these traces -remain indelible. They appeal to God from the tyranny of man." - -Byron made the fame of Chillon, and his Bonivard (or, as he spelt the -name with two n's, Bonnivard) was a far more ideal patriot than the -actual prisoner, whose character has been shown of late years in a -somewhat unfavourable light. Byron was devoted to the Lake of Geneva. -He commemorated some of the great names associated with its shores in -a sonnet, one of the few that he ever wrote:-- - - "Rousseau--Voltaire--our Gibbon--and De Staël-- - Leman! these names are worthy of thy shore, - Thy shore of names like these. Wert thou no more - Their memory thy remembrance would recall: - To them thy banks were lovely as to all - But they have made them lovelier, for the lore - Of mighty minds doth hallow in the core - Of human hearts the ruin of a wall - - "Where dwells the wise and wondrous; but by thee - How much more, Lake of Beauty, do we feel - In sweetly gliding o'er thy crystal sea - The wild glow of that not ungentle zeal - Which of the Heirs of Immortality - Is proud and makes the breath of Glory real." - -Can it be that Lord Byron pronounced "real" as if it were a -monosyllable? But he also wrote "There let it _lay_!" - -There are, on the shores of Lake Geneva, several hotels associated -with Byron. At the Anchor Inn, still extant at Ouchy, he wrote that -misleading rhapsody--"The Prisoner of Chillon." - -He had in 1816 definitely separated from his wife and had shaken the -dust of England from his poetic shoes. Percy Bysshe Shelley with his -wife and daughter, Williams, and Jane Clairmont, Mary Shelley's -half-sister, were established at Sécheron, a suburb of Geneva. Byron -had never met the Poet of the Sky-lark, but Jane Clairmont, who was a -passionate, fiery-eyed brunette, imbued with her father's ideas of -free love, had begun her unfortunate liaison with him, having -deliberately thrown herself into his arms. They had met clandestinely -a number of times just before their departure from England. - -Byron and Shelley were both fond of sailing and they had many -excursions on the lake. One evening they were out together when the -_bise_, as the strong northwest wind is called, was blowing. They -drifted before it and, getting into the current of the Rhône, were -carried swiftly toward the piles at the entrance of Geneva harbour. It -required all the strength of their boatmen to extricate them from the -danger. - -"I will sing you an Albanian song," cried Byron. "Now be sentimental -and give me all your attention." - -They expected a melancholy Eastern melody, but, instead, he uttered "a -strange, wild howl" admirably suited to the dashing waves with which -they were struggling. A few days later the Shelleys moved across to -the south side of the lake, and settled down at Campagne Mont-Allègre. -Byron stayed at Sécheron, but used often to row over to visit them. -Finally, he himself rented the Villa Diodati, which stands a little -higher up. - -He and Shelley made a tour of the lake and had some exciting -experiences. They left Mont-Allègre on June 23 and spent the first -night at Nerni, where Byron declared he had not slept in such a bed -since he left Greece five years before. At Evian, on the French side, -they had trouble with their passports, but, when the Syndic learned -Byron's name and rank, he apologized for their treatment of him and -left him in peace. On June 26 they were at Chillon. Off Meillerie they -were attacked by what Byron called a squall. Shelley described it in a -letter to Thomas Love Peacock:-- - -"The wind gradually increased in violence, until it blew tremendously; -and as it came from the remotest extremity of the lake, produced -waves of a frightful height, and covered the whole surface with a -chaos of foam. One of our boatmen, who was a dreadfully stupid fellow, -persisted in holding the sail at a time when the boat was on the point -of being driven under water by the hurricane. On discovering his error -he let it entirely go and the boat for a moment refused to obey the -helm; in addition the rudder was so broken as to render the management -of it very difficult; one wave fell in, and then another. My -companion, an excellent swimmer, took off his coat, I did the same, -and we sat with our arms crossed, every instant expecting to be -swamped. The sail was, however, again held, the boat obeyed the helm, -and still in imminent peril from the immensity of the waves, we -arrived in a few minutes at a sheltered port, in the village of -Saint-Gingoux." - -Byron, in a letter to John Murray, wrote:--"I ran no risk, being so -near the rocks, and a good swimmer; but our party were wet and -incommodated a good deal; the wind was strong enough to blow down some -trees, as we found at landing." - -He was at this very time engaged in composing the third canto of -"Childe Harold." - -[Illustration: MONT BLANC.] - -On the third of June he had been dazzled by a glimpse of "yonder -Alpine snow--Imperishably pure beyond all things below," and a month -later he wrote, "I have this day observed for some time the distinct -reflection of Mont Blanc and Mont Argentière in the calm of the lake, -which I was crossing in my boat. The distance of these mountains from -their mirror is sixty miles." In the poem he sings--I believe that is -the proper verb!-- - - "Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, - The mirror where the stars and mountains view - The stillness of their aspect in each trace - Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue: - There is too much of man here, to look through - With a fit mind the might which I behold; - But soon in me shall Loneliness renew - Thoughts hid, but not less cherished than of old, - Ere mingling with the herd had penned me in its fold.... - - "Is it not better, then, to be alone - And love Earth only for its earthly sake - By the blue rushing of the arrowy Rhône, - Or the pure bosom of its nursing lake, - Which feeds it as a mother who doth make - A fair but froward infant her own care, - Kissing its cries away as these awake;-- - Is it not better thus our lives to wear, - Than join the crushing crowd, doomed to inflict or bear? - - "I live not in myself, but I become - Portion of that around me; and to me, - High mountains are a feeling, but the hum - Of human cities torture: I can see - Nothing to loathe in nature, save to be - A link reluctant in a fleshly chain, - Classed among creatures, when the soul can flee, - And with the sky, the peak, the heaving plain - Of ocean, or the stars, mingle, and not in vain." - -And again further along:-- - - "Clear, placid Leman! thy contrasted lake, - With the wide world I dwelt in, is a thing - Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake - Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring. - This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing - To waft me from distraction; once I loved - Torn ocean's roar, but thy soft murmuring - Sounds sweet as if a Sister's voice reproved, - That I with stern delights should e'er have been so moved." - -And how beautifully he describes night on the lake:-- - - "It is the hush of night, and all between - Thy margin and the mountains, dusk, yet clear, - Mellowed and mingling, yet distinctly seen, - Save darkened Jura, whose capt heights appear - Precipitously steep; and drawing near, - There breathes a living fragrance from the shore, - Of flowers yet fresh with childhood; on the ear - Drops the light drip of the suspended oar, - Or chirps the grasshopper one good-night carol more; - - "He is an evening reveller, who makes - His life an infancy, and sings his fill; - At intervals, some bird from out the brakes - Starts into voice a moment, then is still. - There seems a floating whisper on the hill, - But that is fancy, for the starlight dews - All silently their tears of love instil, - Weeping themselves away, till they infuse - Deep into Nature's breast the spirit of her hues. - - "Ye stars! which are the poetry of heaven, - If in your bright leaves we would read the fate - Of men and empires,--'tis to be forgiven, - That in our aspirations to be great, - Our destinies o'erleap their mortal state, - And claim a kindred with you; for ye are - A beauty and a mystery, and create - In us such love and reverence from afar, - That fortune, fame, power, life, have named themselves a star. - - "All heaven and earth are still--though not in sleep, - But breathless, as we grow when feeling most: - And silent, as we stand in thoughts too deep:-- - All heaven and earth are still: From the high host - Of stars, to the lulled lake and mountain-coast, - All is concentered in a life intense, - Where not a beam, nor air, nor leaf is lost, - But hath a part of being, and a sense - Of that which is of all Creator and defence." - -He is in his darkest, gloomiest, most characteristic pose when he -describes a storm at night:-- - - "The sky is changed! and such a change! O night - And storm and darkness, ye are wondrous strong, - Yet lovely in your strength, as in the light - Of a dark eye in woman! Far along, - From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, - Leaps the live thunder! Not from one lone cloud, - But every mountain now hath found a tongue; - And Jura answers, through her misty shroud, - Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud! - - "And this is in the night:--Most glorious night! - Thou wert not sent for slumber! let me be - A sharer in thy fierce and far delight-- - A portion of the tempest and of thee! - How the lit lake shines, a phosphoric sea, - And the big rain comes dancing to the earth! - And now again 'tis black,--and now, the glee - Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain-mirth, - As if they did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth. - - "Now, where the swift Rhône cleaves his way between - Heights which appear as lovers who have parted - In hate, whose mining depths so intervene, - That they can meet no more, though broken-hearted; - Though in their souls, which thus each other thwarted, - Love was the very root of the fond rage - Which blighted their life's bloom, and then departed; - Itself expired, but leaving them an age - Of years all winters--war within themselves to wage. - - "Now, where the quick Rhône thus hath cleft his way, - The mightiest of the storms hath ta'en his stand: - For here, not one, but many, make their play, - And fling their thunderbolts from hand to hand, - Flashing and cast around; of all the band, - The brightest through these parted hills hath forked - His lightnings, as if he did understand - That in such gaps as desolation worked, - There the hot shaft should blast whatever therein lurked. - - "Sky, mountains, river, winds, lake, lightnings! ye, - With night, and clouds, and thunder, and a soul - To make these felt and feeling, well may be - Things that have made me watchful; the far roll - Of your departing voices, is the knoll - Of what in me is sleepless,--if I rest. - But where of ye, O tempests! is the goal? - Are ye like those within the human breast? - Or do ye find at length, like eagles, some high nest? - - "Could I embody and unbosom now - That which is most within me,--could I wreak - My thoughts upon expression, and thus throw - Soul, heart, mind, passions, feelings, strong or weak, - All that I would have sought, and all I seek, - Bear, know, feel, and yet breathe--into one word, - And that one word were Lightning, I would speak; - But as it is, I live and die unheard, - With a most voiceless thought, sheathing it as a sword." - -The Swiss poet, Juste Olivier, grows enthusiastic over the beauty of -Chillon:-- - -"What perfection!" he exclaims, "What purity of lines, what suavity of -harmony! In this gulf which one might describe as merging from the -lake like a thought of love, in this manoir growing out of the bosom -of the billows with its dentelated towers, petals bourgeonning from a -noble flower, in this encirclement of mountains and these white or -rosy peaks which hold them in close embrace, there is something which -bids you pause, takes you out of yourself and in order to complete the -enchantment compels you to love it." - -And he goes on to tell how once dwelt here the little Charlemagne, -brave Count Pierre, who, when he was ill, used to look out on the -joyous waves, living in memory his battles, his tourneys and his -festivities. Here, too, his brother, the Seigneur Aymon, used to lie -on a vast bed with hangings of armorial silk and surrounded by -candles, while he listened to melancholy tales or comic adventures -from the poor pilgrims whom he sheltered. In that day the feudal -kitchen, with its marquetrie floor, used to see a whole ox roasted to -give meat to the visitors, and great casks of wine from the Haut Crêt -used to cheer the down-hearted. Little did the revellers care for the -poor wretches below in the dungeons where the light filtering through -the loop-holes failed to dissipate the gloomy shadows or make clearer -the visions which solitude evoked from the stormy strip of sky. - - * * * * * - -The finest aspect of Chillon is from a point just a few hundred meters -out into the lake. There it has a double background; the steep, -green-wooded slope tumbling down from the Bois de la Raveyre, and, -beyond the head of the lake, the saw-like roof of the snow-capped Dent -du Midi. It does indeed look like a tooth--like the colossal molar of -the king of the mastodons. It was too early in the day to see the -Alpenglow; but afterwards many times I saw it, not only on this -imperial height but also on the heads of Mont Blanc and his haughty -vassals and on many another sky-defying range, either bare of snow or -wearing the ermine of the clouds. - -As it happened, that beautiful day in May, not a cloud, not a wisp of -cloud, hovered over the rugged bosom of the mighty mountain. It stood -out with startling clearness against a dazzling blue sky, and was -framed between the converging slopes of the mountains that meet the -lake beyond Chillon and on the other side, beyond Villeneuve. The -lofty red-capped central tower of the ancient castle seemed as high, -or rather made the first step up to the mountains that cut off the -view of the base of the grander height. - -Taken all in all, is there on earth any bit of landscape more -interesting and thrilling in its combination of picturesque beauty and -historical association? - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -A PRINCESS AND THE SPELL OF THE LAKE - - -Years ago I used to know the Princess Kóltsova-Masálskaya, who under -the name of Dora d'Istria wrote many stories and semi-historical -works. She was a most cultivated and fascinating woman. In her book, -"Au Bord des Lacs Helvétiques," she criticizes Lord Byron's -description of Lake Leman. She says:-- - -"When one comes in the spring to the Pays de Vaud, one does not at -first see all the beauty so many times celebrated by poets and -travelers. In rereading Byron and Jean-Jacques Rousseau, one is -inclined to conjecture that they were obliged to have recourse to -quite fanciful descriptions, in order to justify their boasts. - -"Byron, in spite of the power of his genius, is a rather vulgar -painter of the splendors of nature. He contents himself with vague -traits and what he says of the Lake of Geneva would apply just as -well to the Lake of the Four Cantons or the Lake of Zürich. Rousseau -himself seems to have found the subject only partly poetic, for he -exhausts himself in describing Julie's imaginary orchard, which would -have been much better situated in the Emmenthal than on the -vine-covered slopes above Lake Leman. In gazing at the hillsides, -rough with the blackened grape-vines, one can easily understand the -motive which prompted the author of 'La Nouvelle Héloïse' to prefer an -ideal picture to the reality. - -"When one leaves the plain in the month of April, one has already -enjoyed the smiles of the Spring. The fresh young grass covers the -earth with an emerald-colored carpet. The willows swing their silvery -catkins at the edges of the streams, while along the edges of the -forests gleams the silvery calix of the wood-anemone. Here, the vines -are slower; the walnut-trees have not been hasty in opening their big -buds and, as the shores of the Lake of Geneva have very little other -vegetation than walnut-trees and vines, this region presents, during -the first fine days, an aspect not calculated to seduce the eye or -speak to the imagination. - -"We should get a very false idea of it, however, if at this season of -the year we visited only the shores of the lake, and did not make our -way up into the mountains where so many fruit trees spread over the -rejuvenated turf the fragrant snow of their petals." - -The Princess tells how Eléonora de Haltingen came to reside at Veytaux -with her mother in November, 1858. She liked to go down to Montreux, -"the principal group of houses in that parish." She used to follow a -path thus described:--"A foot-path worn among the vines led toward the -grotto surmounted by the terrace of the church. This foot-path was -impracticable for crinolines; no dust was found, or pallid misses with -blue veils, or tourists with airs of conquerors, or noisy -children--all such things spoil the most delicious landscapes. But one -could admire at one's ease the luxurious vegetation of the vines, the -transparent grapes, the flexible and shining leaves of the maise -growing amid the vineyards.... - -"We admired the magnificent spectacle spread before our eyes," -continues her biographer, "as we picked bouquets of the silène which -makes great, rosy clusters in the old walls. These walls are placed -there to hold up the vines and they serve as a retreat for a multitude -of swift lizards which sleep there during the winter and whose bright -little faces and infantile curiosity were a delight to us. As soon as -we had passed a few steps beyond their holes we could see them emerge, -cock up their heads, turning to the right and then to the left, with -their bright eyes sparkling, and then dart away whenever there would -be heard on the path the heavy shoes used by the Vaudois women, for it -is said that their musical ear likes only harmonious noises. This -inquisitiveness must cost the poor little saurians dear. The -bald-buzzards, wheeling in the blue above our heads, seemed by no -means indifferent to their movements. And so we kept finding one and -another that showed traces of an existence very difficult to preserve. -One would lack a paw, another its tail. Finally several, covered with -dust, their skins faded and their eyes dulled, fled precipitately so -as to leave the foot-path free to those of their brethren whose bright -and gilded garb contrasted with their air of wretchedness and -suffering, so deeply does misfortune modify the most sociable -character." - -Then, after they had enlarged their bouquets by jasmine and syringa -blossoms, with Alpine roses and golden-tinged cytisus, they would go -to the grotto and from there to the terrace behind the church. The -Princess thus describes the scene:-- - -"Sheltered by enormous walnut-trees, this grotto, which opens in a -crag hung with ivy, gives passage to a brook which falls with a gentle -murmur past a bathing establishment, a three-storied, rustic châlet -charming to look at. Jasmines and rose-bush boxes deck the -ground-floor and the first story with their graceful branches and give -the place the appearance of a mass of verdure and of flowers. - -"A foot-path, worn under the walnut-trees along the mountain, gives -passage to the church and the terrace, which extends south of the -edifice and affords one of the most beautiful views in the Pays de -Vaud. Of a summer morning, toward nine o'clock, one can find the most -marvellous tints spread over the lake. Over a sparkling azure ground -wander designs in graceful silvery curves. The sapphire itself seems -robbed of its brilliancy beside these waters. The metallic glitter of -the bright blue wing of the king-fisher may give some idea of this -almost fantastic shade, which seems to belong to another universe. - -"We could never tire of contemplating this spectacle, the face of -which changes with the color of the sky. Sometimes a cloud, passing -across the mountains of Savoy, cast on their bald brows, or on their -verdant sides, a shadow as gigantic as that of the Roumanian monster, -the winged _zmeou_; again a steam-boat, proudly wearing the banner -with the silver cross, would pour forth into the air a black plume of -smoke and leave on the waves a glittering, foamy wake. - -"Facing the terrace of Montreux can be seen the villages of the -Catholic shore,--Boveret and Saint-Gingolph, separated by a big -mountain, La Chaumény, marked by an immense ravine. This shore by its -stern aspect makes a strong contrast with the shore of Vaud, but this -very contrast adds to the originality and the grandeur of the -landscape. The old fortress which served as Bonivard's prison emerges -at the left from the bosom of the waters, which form a graceful gulf -around its walls. Opposite Chillon, a bouquet of verdure surrounded by -a solid wall forms in the middle of the lake that islet on which that -unknown captive, whose griefs Byron sang, used to feast his eyes. - -"In the midst of this smiling landscape, the towers of Chillon, I -confess, saddened my imagination more than it did Eléonora's. When, as -we sat on the terrace, I told her about the long captivity of -Bonivard, who left in the pavement the circle of his footprints as -he went round and round his pillar like a wild beast; when I spoke -with animation of the instruments of torture and the oubliettes, -which, in that sinister fortress, are a witness to the violences and -the iniquities of feudal society, I noticed without a pang that she -gave these questions only slight heed.... - -[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF CHÂTELARD AND THE SAVOY ALPS.] - -"When one wishes to go to Clarens without straying far from the lake, -one passes at some distance from the principal village of the parish -of Montreux. We almost always stopped at the end of a wide and -picturesque ravine watered by a torrent called the _baie_ of Montreux; -here the view is lovely. If one looks toward the lake, Veytaux is to -be seen at the right, hidden like a doves' nest between Mont Cau and -Mont Sonchaud; beyond Veytaux, Chillon thrusts its massive walls into -the waters. At the right, the quadrangular manoir of Châtelard, with -its thick walls, and narrow windows, stands in its isolation on its -hill. When one turns toward the church of Montreux, one is astonished -at the small space occupied by the chief village of this parish, -formed by the houses of Les Planches and Le Châtelard and known by -that name all over Europe. Concealed among thick walnut-trees and -Virginian poplars, these houses are built between two rounded hills, -one of which, called Le Rigi Vaudois, lifts aloft a great châlet in -red wood. Behind the habitations appears in the distance a mountain -with ragged summit, which the winter makes white with its snows and -the summer covers with a pallid verdure diversified with fir-trees -here and there." - -The Princess also paints a pretty picture of the lake in winter:-- - -"The gulls had reappeared along the shore. The vines were completely -despoiled. Over the whole landscape spread a thick fog, which -sometimes concealed the mountains and thus gave Lake Leman the -appearance of a sea. By the beginning of December the sun was still -struggling with the mists; often the mountains seemed cut in two by a -luminous band which fell thickly over the lake, and stretched toward -Vevey in dark folds. Above the peaks of Savoy, whose summits, now -marked with streaks of snow, glittered in the sun, still shone the -Italian sky like a consolation or like a hope. - -"The lake itself was losing its lovely azure tints. I remember one day -when we were seated on the road leading from Veytaux to the church, -behind a low hedge of Bengal roses. Lake Leman was still blue in -patches, but, for the most part, somber clouds with silver fringes -were reflected in its melancholy waters. The gulf of Chillon was -filled with a dark triangle, the shadow of the neighboring mountains. -At the right the gulf of Vernex was glittering in the sunlight, a -light the appearance of which we loved to salute, for its struggle -with the darkness interested us as much as it would the worshipers of -Ormuzd. - -"When the landscape seemed completely asleep in the fog, suddenly a -ray of sunlight would give it back all its brilliancy and life. One -afternoon, as I was coming home with Eléonora from the terrace of the -church, the sun appeared over the crest of Mont Sonchaud. The -fir-trees arising above the snow then put on their loveliest tints. -Whole masses of these trees remained in the shadow; a few were of a -greenish yellow; others bore on their crests what seemed like a -fantastic aureole. - -"Arriving at Veytaux by the path which crosses the vineyards by a -murmuring brook, we found a still more beautiful view. Between the two -mountains that shelter the village, there rise at some distance two -peaks of unequal shape; and these two are the only ones at this season -as yet covered with snow. Their alabaster summits, standing out -against a faint mist, shone as if one of the Olympians, celebrated in -the song of the divine Homer, had touched them with his immortal foot. - -"But at sunset especially did we most enjoy the magnificent sight of -the lake, which could be seen from my windows in its whole length. An -orange light then stained the west at the place where the mountains of -Savoy dip down into the lake. These mountains stood out boldly against -the blazing horizon. At the right a purple zone crowned the hills and -grew feebler toward Vevey; in the midst of the lake flamed a -marvellous fire, while the waters were somber under Villeneuve, of a -pallid blue under Veytaux, and of a pearly gray color, cut by red -bands, along the shores of Savoy. - -"One evening this spectacle, though still fascinating, had something -saddening about it. The mountains of Savoy were enveloped in a thick -veil, surmounted by a canopy of pale azure illuminated by the dying -sun. The veil grew larger toward Lausanne and formed a sort of chain -of vapors, heaped up and climbing into space. A few lines of the color -of blood streaked these gloomy masses. Such might have been the earth -after the deluges of primitive times, when a ray of light began to -smile across the darkness on a desolate universe. - -"In the last week of December the snow, which had grown deep on the -mountains, kept us from all walking. Nothing is so sad as a lake when -it is surrounded by a winter landscape. The dazzling brilliancy of the -snow spreads across the water, which was formerly the rival of the -sapphire, a leaden hue more funereal than that of stagnant pools of -the marsh. Here and there the steeper crags pierce through the pall -with which they are covered and stand up like lugubrious sentinels. A -miserly light comes down from the ashen-hued sky. One hears nothing -but the hoarse cries of the gulls and the reiterated cawing of the -crows as they fly in flocks along the shores of the lake and seem to -delight in this spectacle of death. - -"I have lived too long among the frozen fens of Ingria to love these -melancholy pomps of winter, though they charm the imagination of some -persons. Eléonora, though born on the foggy banks of the Rhine, was -like me in loving the glory of the _Day_. She would have agreed with -Goethe, who, as he lay dying, cried: 'More light! More light!'" - - - - -CHAPTER X - -THE ALPS AND THE JURA - - -We spent so much time at Chillon that we decided to put in for the -night at Evian; but first we circled round the Ilot de Peilz (or, as -some call it, L'Ile de Paix), one of the three artificial islands of -the lake, which has none of its own. It was created about the middle -of the eighteenth century on the _beine_. It still bears the three -elms which shade its seventy-seven square meters of surface. The -waters at one time undermined it and it had to be repaired. - -Later we got a good look at the other two islets. The one called La -Rocher aux Muettes, near Clarens, was built up on a reef of rocks -about one hundred and twenty-five meters from the shore and was walled -up in 1885. It covers about sixteen hundred square meters. - -The third is the Ile de la Harpe, in front of Rolle. It was protected -by a wall in 1838 and bears a white marble monument in memory of the -patriotic General F. C. de la Harpe--he who, by telling the Emperor -of Russia that he wished he might use the words "My Country," had his -support in the struggle with Bern and was instrumental in winning the -freedom of Vaud. This islet stands, or sits, on what is called a -_tenevière_ or group of stones heaped up by nature or by the work of -man, and in prehistoric times served as a _palafitte_ or village of -lake-dwellers. This proves that the level of the lake was about the -same two thousand years ago as it is now. The sluiceway at Geneva -tends to make an artificial difference of height throughout the lake -and there has been for two centuries a law-suit between Geneva and Le -Pays de Vaud growing out of this disturbance. The Vaudois claim that -raising the level of the water has flooded their roads and fields. - -We ran over to Villeneuve and had an excellent luncheon at the Hôtel -du Port. About half-way between Villeneuve and the pretty town of -Saint-Gingolph, on the Morge, we crossed the current of the Rhône, -which, I suppose, owing to its swirling force and the sometimes really -dangerous whirlpools it creates, particularly when there is a strong -wind, is called "la Bataillère," and is dangerous for small craft. -When the Rhône is much colder than the lake it makes a subaqueous -cataract, pouring down almost perpendicularly to the gloomy caverns -below. - -For a wonder there was very little air stirring from the lake at that -time of the day, though there are always winds enough for one to -choose from, not counting the _bise_ or _la bise noire_, as it is -called when it is particularly cold and disagreeable. Emile told us -the various names of them; the _bornan_, which blows south from La -Dranse; the _joran_, from the northwest; the _molan_, which (at -Geneva) blows southeast from the valley of the Arve; the _vaudaire_, -which blows from the southeast over the upper lake from the Bas -Valais; the _sudois_, which, having full sweep across the widest part -of the lake, dashes big waves against the shores of Ouchy. Then there -are the day breezes, called _rebat_ or _séchard_, and the night wind, -the _morget_, which shifts up and down the mountains, owing to changes -in temperature. In summer, he said, there is a warm, south wind, known -as the _vent blanc_, which accompanies a cloudless sky. The natives -call it _maurabia_, which means the wheat-ripener, from _maura_ or -_murit_ and _blla, blé_. - -"There is a charming excursion," said Will, "from Saint-Gingolph. -First a walk along the bank of the Morge to Novel, and then up to the -top of Le Blanchard. Or, from Novel one can go almost twice as high to -the Dent d'Oche. Perhaps a little later, when the snow is all gone, we -can arrange to make it, if the climb would not be too much for you." - -"Too much for me!" I exclaimed, "What do you take me for--a -valley-lounger?" - -"There is an easier climb," continued Will, ignoring my indignation, -"up to the top of Le Grammont, which is only about fifty meters less -in height. I have been up there several times. At the side of Le -Grammont there are two charming lakes, Lovenex and--and--" - -"Tanay," suggested Emile. - -"One gets an excellent chance, from the top, to compare the mountains -of the Jura across the lake with the Alps. The Jura has been compared -to a great, stiff curtain, without fringes or folds; even its colours -are rather monotonous, its distant blue is a bit gloomy and tragic. It -is curious, but this solemnity and monotony is said to affect the -inhabitants. On the other hand, the Alps sweep up with green forests, -and there are coloured crags, and the snows that crown them take on -wonderful prismatic tints and sometimes look as if they were on -fire--as if copper were burning with crimson and violet flames. The -difference has been explained partly by the way the valleys run; -those of the Jura are longitudinal and follow the axis of the range, -so that the mountains are easy to climb, while the Alps are shot -through with transverse valleys. - -"In the Alps one finds even at this day, certainly in the remoter -regions, a primitive, natural, pastoral life, while the natives of the -Jura are quicker to take up industries and are broader-minded. One -could hardly imagine a native of an Alpine valley interesting himself -in politics. The Alpine herdsman looks down on the world; but the man -of the Jura might even belong to a labour-union! It has been well said -that just as in the Middle Ages, the common people of the Jura were -under feudal lords, so, up to the present time, the manufacturers have -controlled a large part of their time and their work, even of their -lives. But the natives of the Alps never submitted to any such -tyranny. - -"I remember reading somewhere that the Alps gallop, as it were, with -their heads erect far over the earth, while the Jura Mountains march -peacefully along, noiselessly and unboundingly, to follow their career -in a graceful and courteous fashion, but without any sublime éclat. -The Jura shows a simplicity, and spreads out distinctly and, as it -were, prudently, offering nothing unexpected, exuberant, mad or -magnificently useless, but, rather, a well-regulated behaviour, a calm -and dignified, but somewhat gloomy, austerity, a cold and melancholy -air.--Don't you think that is pretty good?-- - -[Illustration: ALPINE HERDSMEN.] - -"This same lover of mountains finds even the snow different. On the -Jura it falls on dark-green firs and pines and, mingling with the -dreary foliage, gives forth only a sad and cautious half-smile. But in -the Alps the white snow makes the mountains joyous. He compares it to -a virginal mantle, embroidered with green and azure. When the morning -has, for them, brought on the early day, they seem to sing gaily their -reveille and their youth; a hymn of light floats high in the air above -their heads and finds an echo of joy and of love in the hearts of -mortals. In the evening they smoke like incense and, bending under the -circling sky, they then offer a strangely fascinating image of prayer -and of melancholy. From afar the Jura listens, and, like a dreamer, -pursuing his way, plunges into the darkness." - - * * * * * - -I may as well say, here and now, that a month later we carried out the -plan of climbing Le Grammont, (which, of course, means the Great -Mountain). We went to Vouvry and first admired the exquisite view -where the pretty church, as it were, guides the eye up to the -mountains, and contemplated the canal which the descendants of that -fine old "robber-baron," Kaspar Stockalper, who claimed the right to -dominate the trade over the Simplon and guarded it by a body of -seventy men, built to connect with the Rhône, though it remains -unfinished. Then we easily followed the trail to the mountain-top. We -chose a day which promised to be remarkably clear, and it fulfilled -its promise. Words fail, and must always fail, to describe that -panorama of splendour which includes the aerial heights of Mont Blanc -and the Jungfrau to the south, the whole extent of the lake and the -tamer peaks of the Jura to the north, and a rolling sea of petrified -and frozen billows in every direction. - -When one speaks of Switzerland one instinctively thinks of Mont Blanc, -and it seems an unfair advantage which France has taken to keep -possession of Savoy, which used to belong to Switzerland, and the -crown of the Swiss Alps. History has made strange partitions of -territories; but the more one sees of Switzerland the more one -wonders that it could have ever become a united country, composed as -it is of isolated valleys, separated by lofty mountain-walls, -intercommunicable only by treacherous passes. That same dividing -construction of the country was the ruin of Greece, where each little -province or city, set by itself and developing various qualities of -character, was opposed in ideals and ambitions to every other. - -It is curious, too, that the general notion that the Swiss are -peculiarly liberty-loving should be based on a legend. Probably no -other country in the world ever furnished so many mercenaries. But it -is now one united country and largely freed from the crushing burden -of rampant militarism. - -It was a fine view also we had from the top of Le Grammont, -overlooking the delta of the Rhône, which, from the height of nearly -twenty-two hundred meters, lay below us. We could see how it was -building the level marsh land into the lake. Perhaps some day the -_débris_ from the mountains will quite fill up the gulf. It is amazing -how much material is brought down in the course of a single year, even -by a single freshet. We could see, also, the confining walls of the -dykes which, together with breakwaters, form what is called _la -correction du Rhône_, preventing any riotous behaviour of that torrent -when the floods sweep over the plain. The disreputable exploits of the -river, before it was thus tamed and disciplined, explain why the -region back of Villeneuve, regarded as desolate and uncultivated, is -or has been compared to the vineyard-laden and fertile slopes of the -Jorat. - - * * * * * - -But we are really not mountain-climbing; we are circling the lake and, -except where some river or torrent forms what is technically called a -cone, projecting out into the water, we are able to skirt close to the -_beine_, often under tremendous, beetling cliffs. They become higher -and higher, more and more romantic and magnificent. Only occasionally -is there room for a village to cuddle in between the lake and the -mountains, as, for instance, Meillerie, back of which one can see the -great quarries gashing the mountain, and the tunnel through which the -railway runs. - -Samuel Rogers, in 1822, winging south on his Italian journey, so -beautifully illustrated by Turner, was moved by the beauty of -Meillerie to break out into song:-- - - "These gray majestic cliffs that tower to heaven, - These glimmering glades and open chestnut groves, - That echo to the heifer's wandering bell, - Or woodman's ax, or steersman's song beneath, - As on he urges his fir-laden bark, - Or shout of goat-herd boy above them all, - Who loves not? And who blesses not the light, - When through some loop-hole he surveys the lake - Blue as a sapphire-stone, and richly set - With châteaux, villages and village-spires, - Orchards and vineyards, alps and alpine snows? - Here would I dwell; nor visit, but in thought, - Ferney far South, silent and empty now, - As now thy once-luxurious bowers, Ripaille; - Vevey, so long an exiled Patriot's home; - Or Chillon's dungeon-floors beneath the wave, - Channeled and worn by pacing to and fro; - Lausanne, where Gibbon in his sheltered walk - Nightly called up the Shade of ancient Rome; - Or Coppet and that dark untrodden grove - Sacred to Virtue and a daughter's tears! - - "Here would I dwell, forgetting and forgot, - And oft methinks (of such strange potency - The spells that Genius scatters where he will) - Oft should I wander forth like one in search, - And say, half-dreaming:--'Here St. Preux has stood.' - Then turn and gaze on Clarens." - -The picture now is not so different from what it was almost a hundred -years ago. - - "Day glimmered and I went, a gentle breeze - Ruffling the Leman Lake. Wave after wave, - If such they might be called, dashed as in sport - Not anger, with the pebbles on the beach - Making wild music, and far westward caught - The sun-beam--where alone and as entranced, - Counting the hours, the fisher in his skiff - Lay with his circular and dotted line - On the bright waters. When the heart of man - Is light with hope, all things are sure to please; - And soon a passage-boat swept gayly by, - Laden with peasant-girls and fruits and flowers - And many a chanticleer and partlet caged - For Vevey's market-place--a motley group - Seen through the silvery haze. But soon 'twas gone. - The shifting sail flapped idly to and fro, - Then bore them off. - - "I am not one of those - So dead to all things in this visible world, - So wondrously profound, as to move on - In the sweet light of heaven, like him of old - (His name is justly in the Calendar) - Who through the day pursued this pleasant path - That winds beside the mirror of all beauty, - And when at eve his fellow pilgrims sate - Discoursing of the Lake, asked where it was. - They marveled as they might; and so must all, - Seeing what now I saw: for now 'twas day - And the bright Sun was in the firmament, - A thousand shadows of a thousand hues - Chequering the clear expanse. Awhile his orb - Hung o'er thy trackless fields of snow, Mont Blanc, - Thy seas of ice and ice-built promontories, - That change their shapes for ever as in sport; - Then traveled onward and went down behind - The pine-clad heights of Jura, lighting up - The woodman's casement, and perchance his ax - Borne homeward through the forest in his hand; - And, on the edge of some o'erhanging cliff, - That dungeon-fortress never to be named, - Where like a lion taken in the toils, - Toussaint breathed out his brave and generous spirit. - Little did he who sent him there to die, - Think, when he gave the word, that he himself, - Great as he was, the greatest among men, - Should in like manner be so soon conveyed - Athwart the deep." - -A half dozen kilometers farther down the shore is the famous castle of -Blonay. The days of feudalism were certainly tragic not only for the -baronial masters who were subject to feuds and duels, but also to the -common people. Lords and villeins, however, die and forget their woes, -and the turreted castles which they built and had built are a splendid -heritage for those who live under different conditions. The gorgeous -tapestries which they hung on their walls become food for generations -of moths or, if they escape, and still preserve their brilliant -colours and their quaint and curious designs, display them to -thousands of visitors at the museums where at last they are pretty -sure to gravitate. The solid gold plate is perhaps melted into coin to -pay the price of liberty. And so the cost of a picturesque château, -erected high on an almost inaccessible crag, and lifting its frowning -battlements against a background of snowy mountains, even though it be -reckoned in human lives, may be small compared to the value which it -has in after ages, especially if it comes into the possession of the -people themselves, to be for ever prized as a memorial of a stormy -past. - -[Illustration: _The Living-Room of an Alpine Castle_] - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -THE SOUTHERN SHORE - - -By a strange coincidence I found in the room where I slept that night -a tattered copy of "Anne of Geierstein," and almost the first thing I -turned to the description of an Alpine castle. Now, Sir Walter Scott -had never been in the Alps, but his picture of the ruin of Geierstein -is quite typical and worth rereading:-- - -"The ancient tower of Geierstein, though neither extensive nor -distinguished by architectural ornament, possessed an air of terrible -dignity by its position on the very verge of the opposite bank of the -torrent, which, just at the angle of the rock on which the ruins are -situated, falls sheer over a cascade of nearly a hundred feet in -height, and then rushes down the defile, through a channel of living -rock, which perhaps its waves have been deepening since time itself -had a commencement. Facing and at the same time looking down upon this -eternal roar of waters, stood the old tower, built so close to the -verge of the precipice that the buttresses with which the architect -had strengthened the foundation seemed a part of the solid rock -itself, and a continuation of its perpendicular ascent. As usual -throughout Europe in the feudal times the principal part of the -building was a massive square pile, the decayed summit of which was -rendered picturesque by flanking turrets of different sizes and -heights, some round, some angular, some ruinous, some tolerably -entire, varying the outline of the building as seen against the stormy -sky. - -"A projecting sallyport, descending by a flight of steps from the -tower, had in former times given access to a bridge connecting the -castle with that side of the stream on which Arthur Philipson and his -fair guide now stood. A single arch or rather one rib of an arch, -consisting of single stones, still remained and spanned the river -immediately in front of the waterfall. In former times this arch had -served for the support of a wooden drawbridge, of more convenient -breadth and of such length and weight as must have been rather -unmanageable, had it not been lowered on some solid resting-place. It -is true, the device was attended with this inconvenience that even -when the drawbridge was up, there remained the possibility of -approaching the castle-gate by means of this narrow rib of stone. But -as it was not above eighteen inches broad and could only admit the -daring foe who should traverse it to a doorway regularly defended by -gate and portcullis and having flanking turrets and projections from -which stones, darts, melted lead and scalding water might be poured -down on the soldiery who should venture to approach Geierstein by this -precarious access, the possibility of such an attempt was not -considered as diminishing the security of the garrison. - -"The gateway admitted them into a mass of ruins, formerly a sort of -courtyard to the donjon, which rose in gloomy dignity above the wreck -of what had been destined for external defence or buildings for -internal accommodation. They quickly passed through these ruins, over -which vegetation had thrown a wild mantle of ivy and other creeping -shrubs and issued from them through the main gate of the castle into -one of those spots in which nature often embosoms her sweetest charms, -in the midst of districts chiefly characterized by waste and -desolation. - -"The castle in this respect also rose considerably above the -neighboring ground, but the elevation of the site, which towards the -torrent was an abrupt rock, was on this side a steep eminence which -had been scarped like a modern glacis to render the building more -secure. It was now covered with young trees and bushes, out of which -the tower itself seemed to rise in ruined dignity." - -Then he goes on to describe the ample grounds which "seemed scooped -out of the rocks and mountains." - -Scott's imagination was probably aided by various pictures; but it is -remarkably correct. It is amazing to think how many such castles, -almost always situated on inaccessible peaks or islands, must have -been built since the world began, when mighty stones had to be brought -and fitted and lifted and there was no help from steam or electricity. -The colossal fortifications of prehistoric Greece, the edifices of the -stone age, the dizzy escarpments raised by the Incas in their mountain -fastnesses, and all the marvels of barbaric architecture in the depths -of the Caucasus, to say nothing of the hundreds of castles vanished or -still left more or less ruined throughout Europe, are a proof of the -industry and the faithfulness of millions of human beings whose names, -if they had any designation, are gone for ever. - -There was not any special reason for spending the night at Evian: we -might almost as well have run straight across to Lausanne and slept in -our own beds; but we were out for a special purpose--to circle the -lake--and it seemed rather good fun to have a glimpse of the French -life which gathers in this typical Savoyard village, turned into a -resort of fashion. We got a berth for our swift _Hirondelle_ near the -Quai Baron Blonay and left Emile to make himself comfortable in it, -and we ourselves, having satisfied the customs authorities that we -were not smugglers even of Vevey cigars, took lodgings at the Hôtel -Royal above the lake. Then we sallied out to see the town, not failing -to ride over to the curious spring of Amphion where we admired the -fine old chestnut-trees. In the evening we attended the Casino Theatre -where a fairly good company was playing "Les Affaires sont les -Affaires." - -The next morning we intended to start early but had to wait until the -fog cleared away. Anything more beautiful than its final disappearance -could hardly be imagined. When I first arose and looked out of my -window, I seemed to be gazing across a tumbling sea which must just -about have reached the old level of the lake when it emptied out into -the Aar and the Rhine, and therefore was a contributary to the German -Ocean and not to the Mediterranean. - -Some of the Swiss rivers seem to be like the Swiss themselves and -divide their allegiance. Thus the Venoge, which rises between Rolle -and Mont Tendre, at first determined apparently to give itself up to -the Lake of Neuchâtel; but it pauses at La Sarraz and quarrels with -itself; some of the stream is faithful to its old purpose and joins -the Mozon, which falls into the Lake of Neuchâtel at Yverdon; while -the main river turns to the south and falls into the Lake of Geneva -east of Morges. - -It was not long before the glories of the Jura began to appear above -the mist. Stretching along in a wall-like perspective, with their -summits glittering white in the morning sun, it was a sight never to -be forgotten. I dressed and went down to the veranda and there fell -into conversation with a most courteous English lady who knew the lay -of the land. She pointed out to me Le Crêt de la Neige, Mont Tendre, -Dôle and other elevations. I found that we had mutual friends and we -were soon on a footing of very charming acquaintance. This is worth -mentioning because the English perhaps cherish the reputation of -pursuing their selfish way aloof from other human beings unfortunate -enough not to have first seen the light of day on their tight little -Island. - -There is a beautiful chance here to introduce the golden thread of -romance and let it begin to weave a glowing design. My niece, whom I -have not mentioned for a long time, when I told her of my chance -rencontre, immediately jumped at the conclusion that the spider had -caught the fly, that my heart was already in a net. She actually began -to lay her plans for inviting Lady Q. to come and make her a visit. I -assured her that there was not the slightest danger. I potentially -prevaricated and boldly declared that Lady Q. was neither a maid nor a -widow. - -"And why," said I, "are you so anxious to marry me off? You must be -getting tired of me." - -That suggestion brought on a pretty little quarrel, especially when I -added that I should be perfectly content to stay right where I was, -even if I never saw my trunk again. At any rate, I got in the last -word, which was a triumph, though at the expense of my reputation for -delicacy of feeling. For my niece pretended to be shocked too much to -let fly a Parthian arrow. I declared--and I am sure I looked as if I -meant it--that Lady Q. was too old for me anyway. - -I afterwards showed my niece the copy of "Anne of Geierstein" and she -outdid my memory by calling my attention to Scott's description of -Mount Pilatus. I had forgotten all about it, but wishing still to be -disagreeable--for I could not possibly forget her unworthy attempt to -marry me forthwith to a lady whom I had never seen but once in my -life--I said: "We will keep it till we get there." - -"You may not get there," she retorted. - -I tore out the pages and put them into my pocket. Maybe I shall -produce them when I arrive at Lucerne. - -We had an excellent cup of coffee and by ten o'clock we were doubling -the "cone" of the Dranse. This promontory offers one of the best -illustrations of the generosity of a river in forming village sites. -It is the generosity of a fluvial Robin Hood, who steals from the -wealthy to confer benefactions on the poor. There is a closer likeness -here than one sees at first. The Robin Hood type of robber, erratic, -generous, picturesque, romantic, sympathetic, humourous, belongs to a -medieval epoch; he would be unthinkable when civilization has -levelled all differences. So the wild, fierce, brawling, unscrupulous -river, taking from one region and handing its loot to another or -throwing it away, is uncivilized compared to the river that has -reached its plain, and has become slow and dignified. - -We went near enough to the shore to see the castle of Ripaille, where -Duke Victor Amédée of Savoy had his hermitage. No wonder he did not -want to leave it for the burdens of a contested papal tiara. I would -not object to settle down in such a retreat--provided I had a few -friends to share it. In his day probably the Jura was much more -beautiful, because their slopes were clad in splendid forests. It is a -nature-tragedy that when mountains are once deforested either by the -axe of man or by fire, the flesh of the range melts away and can never -form again; only the uncompromising rock is left like mighty bones. - -The lake must have been even more beautiful when the great forests of -chestnuts and birches and beeches still existed, before there had come -the endless monotonies of terraced vineyards; before the valleys with -their native châlets were sophisticated into summer resorts with smug -villas and huge hotels filled with staring strangers. - -I liked the look of the old town of Thonon, and the name of the -department in which it is situated and of which it used to be the -capital suggested the delicate wines. One complains of monotonous -vine-terraces, and they certainly are not effective when seen at a -distance, but at close range, especially when the trellises are loaded -with ripe grapes, they have a double charm. The grape cure attracts -thousands of people to all the shores of the lake and to dozens of -charming little towns of which one only hears by accident. - -If I were certain of several incarnations I should like to spend one -whole life on the borders of Lake Leman. Perhaps in the next -reincarnation one may be able to be in two places at once. We have two -eyes that blend impressions into one resultant. Why not be in two -places at once, and after that in four, in sixteen, and so on, till -one would be coterminous with the universe and know everything: if we -have two eyes, some other insects have a thousand. The gracious lady, -Madame Sévery, whose letters, written a century and more ago, filled -me with the rather melancholy yearning--for it can never be -fulfilled--for that delightful life which she led: a winter in -Lausanne or Geneva; the spring in one of her country châteaux; the -summer in another, the autumn in still another. The houses, full of -luxurious furniture, always ready for occupancy; friends happening -around to spend a week or a month or only a night. But when one family -had so much thousands had not much of anything, though probably the -peasants then were as happy as the working-people now who have tasted -of the intoxicating "Fraternité" cup, perhaps poisonous when the third -ingredient is left out--the cup, invented by Rousseau, and drunk to -the full in the French Revolution. - -Thonon looked exceedingly tempting as it rose above the lake. My -nephew declared that it was built even more Chablais than it looked--a -pun which would have resulted in a scene of decapitation had we been -under Alice's Duchess. He atoned for it however by promising to take -me on an excursion up the valley of the Dranse, which is one of the -most fascinating rivers in Savoy. - -As usual he fulfilled his promise. We equipped ourselves for walking, -and, taking it leisurely, climbed along the river to the little hamlet -of Saint Jean d'Aulph, where we admired the taste of the -eleventh-century Cistercians who built their monastery in such a nook -of the mountains. We finally arrived at Champéry, and, of course, -admired the primitive _calvaire_ and the stunning view. There, I -remember, my worthy Will quoted that charming passage from -Henri-Frédéric Amiel, which indeed might be applied to dozens of other -horizon-aspects. He says--but it is much more effective in French:-- - -"The profile of the horizon takes on all forms: needles, pinnacles, -battlements, pyramids, obelisks, teeth, hooks, claws, horns, cupolas; -the denticulation is bent, is turned back on itself, is twisted, is -accentuated in a thousand ways, but in the angular style of sierras. -Only the lower and secondary ranges present rounded tops, fleeting and -curving lines. The Alps are more than an upheaval, they are a tearing -asunder of the surface of the earth." - -These _calvaires_, or rustic shrines, frequently met with in the -Catholic cantons, are picturesque in their setting and though not in -themselves beautiful, add much to the charm of a prospect, giving the -human element, at its most humble expression, that of devotion, in -contradistinction to the awful and inhuman wildness of Nature in her -most tremendous and imposing aspect. Even common names here take a -religious colour, as for instance the Crêt d'eau, which becomes the -Credo. - -Those that climb the Haute Cime of the Dent du Midi find Champéry a -convenient starting-point. I, who had once in one day climbed over all -the peaks of the Presidential Range, felt an ambitious stirring to -repeat the feat on a higher and grander scale--taking all the six -peaks in succession--La Dent Noire, La Forteresse, La Cathédrale, La -Dent Jaune, and Le Doigt up to the Haute Cime. - -Such an exploit would be too fatiguing for one of my venerable years, -but I have seen photographs of the view from the top of the Dent du -Midi, and when one has been on one mountain, even though it be not -quite thirty-three hundred meters high, the views are only variants, -even when one has Mont Blanc piled up across a marvellous valley -filled with glaciers and azure lakes. - -It is wonderful how quickly in her slow way this same cruel Mother -Nature repairs the damage she does--damage as seen by human eyes. Down -the side of the Dent du Midi in 1835 swept a rock-fall. Two years -later, on the road between Geneva and Chamonix, a pretty little lake -which was the delight of travellers was filled by a similar avalanche -of rocks. - -Etienne Javelle gives a vivid description of some of these -catastrophes:-- - -"If one would take a keen pleasure in climbing the Col de Jorat," he -says, "one must be interested in something more than simple -picturesque effects; especially must the climber, facing the contorted -and tottering condition of these immense rocks, seek to realize the -cataclysms of which these places have been the scene and those that -still threaten them. When this sympathetic attitude has been attained, -nothing can be more impressive than the glen and torrent of -Saint-Barthelémy. - -"These mountains could add many pages to the chapter of Alpine -catastrophes; they have more than once terribly alarmed the -inhabitants, and each generation can relate to the succeeding one the -convulsions which it has witnessed. - -"But the events that happened when life had not as yet appeared in the -primeval chaos of these mountains cannot be retold by posterity. Who -knows by what terrific throes the breach, to-day so vast and complete, -was opened at the place where the Rhône flows and where now stand the -houses and meadows of Evionnaz? - -"Unquestionably it was narrow at first and the furious waters -gradually forced a passage for themselves by unceasing assaults; -unquestionably also during the glacial epoch, the tremendous glacier -of the Rhône, compelled to be shut in within this gorge, exerted an -enormous pressure on the sides of its channel. From La Dent de Morcles -to La Dent du Midi what peaks have one after the other been worn down -and disappeared! The great glaciers have carried far away all this -early détritus, an enormous bulk the secret of which the waters of -Lake Leman possibly know more than we do. - -"What has taken place since then, from the time when men first -appeared in these localities cannot compare with those primal -convulsions; still there is enough to overwhelm the imagination of -man; it is too much for their feeble dwellings to endure. Terrible -events of days long gone by are recorded in the local annals. The -catastrophe which swallowed up the little town of Epaune when Mont -Taurus fell on it. One of the most ancient of these falls was the -catastrophe in which the hot spring was lost, though it has since been -rediscovered at Lavey. - -"On October 9, 1635, in the middle of the night, a strange and -terrific noise alarmed the inhabitants of Evionnaz and the neighboring -hamlets; suddenly awakened from sleep they sprang out of their beds in -alarm. A rumbling noise, growing ever louder, was heard. The -Noviorroz, a mountain near by, fell into the valley with a monstrous -crash. The curé of Saint-Maurice was hastily informed of the -catastrophe and he had the tocsin rung. As soon as daylight came a -band of rescuers went to the scene of the disaster but hardly had it -got there, when an even more tremendous downfall compelled a retreat -to a neighboring height. - -"The noise of it resounded throughout the valley. For more than a -quarter of an hour the sun was hidden by a cloud of dust from the Bois -Noir down to the lake. The current of the Rhône was blocked; the -torrent of the Marre--now Saint-Barthélemy--formed at the foot of the -Jorat a lake the overflow of which was a new danger to the valley. - -"As popular superstition attributed this catastrophe to demons which -haunted the mountain, the Bishop of Sion, Hildebrandt Jost, spent nine -days in exorcising the place. His trouble was wasted; the waters went -on with their work and at intervals of every few years the same -threats were repeated with minor falls and great deposits of mud. - -"At last, on August 26, 1835, about eleven o'clock in the morning, -there was a sudden noise, like that of many discharges of artillery -uninterruptedly following one another. All eyes were turned to the -mountain. The eastern peak was surrounded by mist. Thence came the -fall. A thick fog filled the glen of Saint-Barthélemy; violent gusts -of wind shook the houses of Mex and uprooted whole rows of forest -trees. - -"An enormous mass of rock detached itself from the Eastern Peak, -striking and smashing the front part of the glacier. Ice and boulders -rolled with a frightful fracas down two thousand meters of precipice -and filled the valley and the gorge with their _débris_. - -"The ice, disintegrated and in a state of thaw, mingling with this -_débris_, formed a barrier of mud thickly strewn with enormous -boulders, which overflowed the high banks of the torrent, crossing the -Bois Noir, and plunged into the valley of the Rhône. A part of the -stream swept over on the right bank and covered the hamlet of La Rasse -with mud. - -"To reëstablish the communications which had been interrupted on the -road the people made a bridge of long ladders, planks and trunks of -fir-trees. Ropes attached to these ladders stretched over the top of -the bank. At each fresh onslaught--and there were three or four a -day--a man stationed in the gorge blew a whistle to announce it and -the ropes were immediately pulled to prevent the bridge from being -carried away. - -"M. de Bons, an eye-witness, described one of these _coulées_. 'A -whitish vapor rose into the air as it left the gorge. At the same -instant a dull noise and a violent gust of wind apprised us of the -approach of the _coulée_. The moving mass came down upon us with -irresistible force but so slowly that a man at his ordinary walking -pace could have gone on his way without being overtaken by it. -Enormous blocks of stone seemed literally to float on the stream; at -times they stood out of the liquid mass as if they were as light as a -feather; then again they would tip and sink into the mud till nothing -could be seen of them. A little farther down they could be seen again -coming gradually to the surface, to float for a while until finally -swallowed up, repeating at various stages of their progress the same -scenes and the same accidents. - -"'The bed of the torrent was remarkably narrow at one point. Huge -boulders were stopped there and formed a barrier against which the -fragments carried along by the river were collected. For some minutes -a strange conflict was waged here, the rushing _débâcle_ of ice and -water endeavoring to flow back for a long distance; the river rose -till it almost caused a freshet. At last by carrying the _débris_ -along, it succeeded in effecting an outlet and overthrew all the -obstacles impeding its course. Rocks, trees, lumps of ice, _débris_ of -every kind all went whirling round and round with a long, savage roar, -then disappeared in the current and were borne downwards across the -slopes of the Bois Noir.' - -"Since 1835 there has been scarcely any disturbance in the mountain. -The waters, however, are at work, and who can predict that a still -more terrible catastrophe will not some day desolate the valley of the -Rhône? - -"The people no longer see the hand of demons in these devastations nor -do they exorcize the mountain; but a pious custom has it that each -year a procession makes its way to a hill above La Rasse with a cross -standing on it and there invokes the Creator's protection by their -prayers." - -To the eye that sees, the solid rock is just as much liquid and in -commotion as the flowing river; it is all in a state of flux. The -mountain-tops are plunging down into the valleys and then the rains -and the rivers grasp them and roll them and reduce them, until the -porphyry and the granite and the limestone become almost microscopic -sand, which, as every one knows, blows and flows like water. These -beautiful little lakes, which one sees everywhere in Switzerland, if -they should be able to write their autobiographies--indeed they are -able to write their autobiographies and in hieroglyphics which Science -can read--would tell us and do tell us of many a rock-fall which has -stopped the descent of rivers. - -I remember some weeks later, as we were riding in the "Moto," as I -call the touring-car, up to Flims--a most absurd and flimsy squashing -up of the Latin name flumina, the streams--my attention was called to -the enormous glacial rock-fall which ages ago blocked up the whole -valley of the Rhine to a depth of between two and three thousand feet. -The river, much surprised, had to go to work to cut through the mass -of _débris_. There are still several of the lakes which came from the -same catastrophe--if that can be called a catastrophe--which probably -affected no human being for the worse. Many of these rock-falls, -however, have ruined whole populations; churches and houses have been -swept away. Sometimes, after a long-continued rain, the whole side of -a mountain-slope will begin to sweep down. One sees the same thing in -a smaller scale on the side of a gulley where a road has been lowered. -The laws of gravitation, the erosive powers of water, the effects of -frost, are just the same at wholesale as they are at retail. - -The bay sweeping in between the cone of the Dranse and the Pointe -d'Yvoire is called La Grande Conche. We lengthened our course by -following the shore, though we kept well out beyond the mouths of the -two torrents which Emile told us were Le Redon and Le Foron. Yvoire is -different from the other promontories of the lake: the huge blocks of -stone which are scattered about make it evident that it is the remains -of a terminal moraine. This and huge boulders which have been -discovered in the bottom of the lake prove that the hollow valley in -which the lake lies was scooped out by a glacier which as it melted -left its freight of stone brought down from distant mountain-sides. - -Just off Yvoire, which looks very attractive with its glistening -beaches and its fine old castle, between a kilometer and a half and -two kilometers away, and at a depth of about sixty meters, is a -fishing-bank called L'Omblière. There the much esteemed fish "l'omble -chevalier," or in German _der Ritter_, comes to breed and be caught. -There will generally be seen clustered together the fishermen's boats -with their lateen sails cock-billed. Occasionally a storm comes up -suddenly and works havoc. They still talk of the tornado of 1879, when -eleven Savoy fishermen were drowned. - -There are about twenty-two different kinds of fish inhabiting the -lake, several of them good eating. I should think it might be possible -to introduce the whitefish of our Great Lakes: the Leman salmon is not -superior to that noble ranger of the depths. - -We saw a good many wild birds. Emile gave us their names in French: -_les besolets_ or sea-swallows--the kind that Rousseau went out to -shoot, _les gros-sifflets_ with their sharp whistle, _les crênets_ as -Rousseau calls the curlews, _les sifflasons_ which we could see -running along the beach just beyond Yvoire, and the _grèbe_ which he -said was mighty good eating. Most of the Mediterranean sea-gulls -which, like human beings, like a change of scenery, and which in -winter add greatly to the life of the lake, had returned to the south. - -Beyond Nernier the shores contract and we enter "the Little Lake," -which it is supposed occupies the valley excavated by the Arve. We -were fortunate to round the point in good time, for our weather had -been too good to last; the hard greenish coloured clouds streaking -toward the southeast after a reddish sunrise had betokened a change; -it had been clouding up all the forenoon, and before we got out into -the open off La Pointe d'Yvoire, _Le Sudois_ was blowing "great guns" -and a heavy sea was running. It seemed best to take the swallow's -swiftest flight for Geneva, not pausing as we intended to do at -Beauregard or the Port de Tougües or indulging in historic -reminiscences suggested by the valley of Hermance where the -torrent of that name serves to separate the canton from the -département--Switzerland from France. Afterwards, when we passed -through it in our Moto, we had a chance to see its quaint streets, its -houses with vines clambering over them, its red-tiled roofs. Once we -had to turn out carefully to avoid a yoke of oxen which seemed to -think they owned the whole place. - -The glimpse of La Belotte (to mention only one of the dozen places -that charmed us as we approached the great city) would have inspired a -painter. Boats were drawn up along the gently shelving shore; there -were several picturesque brown houses which looked from the distance -like fish-houses, only neater than most of those we see along our New -England coast. A _naue_ with two butterfly sails was just coming in -from up the lake. Men were evidently hurrying to make the boats safe -from the gale, if it should develop into a real storm. - -The lake approach to Geneva even under a grey and threatening sky -gives as it were the key-note to its extraordinary charm. Its noble -waterfront, its lofty buildings, its background of escarped rocks and -its general air of prosperity, beckon a friendly welcome. We darted in -between the two phares or lighthouses which decorate the long jetties, -and turning aside from the surf current, we came alongside the -pleasant Quai du Mont Blanc. - -[Illustration: THE WATERFRONT AND THE ILE ROUSSEAU, GENEVA] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -GENEVA - - -Shortly after we reached the Grand Hôtel des Bergues, which is so -beautifully situated on the quai of the same name, it began to rain. -My room looked down on the Ile Rousseau with its clustering trees. The -five tall poplars stood dignified and disdainful and only bent their -heads when a gust of wind swept them; but the old chestnut-trees -turned up their pallid green leaves and looked unhappy. Pradier's -bronze monument streamed with raindrops. The white swans ignored the -downpour and sailed about like little boats. The enforced monotony of -quietude required by confinement even in a commodious cockpit made -exercise indispensable, and, after luncheon, we protected ourselves -against the weather and sallied out for a walk. We had all the long -afternoon. I proposed to go to Ferney and pay our respects to the -memory of Voltaire, but we found it was too early in the season. A few -weeks later, however, one beautiful bright Wednesday, we ran over in -the Moto and carried out my pious desire. - -My next proposition was to walk down to the junction of the two -rivers. There is nothing more fascinating on earth than such an union; -it is a perpetually renewed marriage. From far-separated sources, as -if from different families, the two streams come. Like human beings, -each has received a multitude of accessions as if from varied -ancestry. Then at last they meet and cast in their lots together, -never again to be parted till they are swallowed up in the great Ocean -of Death which is Life. - -With them it is a perpetual circle or cycle of reincarnation or rather -redaquation. The greedy air sucks up the water and carries it away on -its windy wings until it is caught like a thief by the guardian -mountains and compelled to disgorge. The mountains are unable to keep -it even in the form of snow. It flows down their sides in the slower -rivers called glaciers, which toss up mighty waves and carry with them -great freight of boulders. Then the fierce Sun shouts down: -"Surrender," and he liberates the imprisoned ice and, once more -changed into water, it gallops down the mountains revenging itself for -its years or centuries of imprisonment in the chains of the Frost by -carrying away with it the very foundations on which the mountains -rest, until, undermined, the proud peaks fall with a mighty crash. - -The Rhône and the Arve do not fulfil the marriage injunction all at -once and become one. The muddy grey Arve brings down a quantity of -sand and rolls considerable-sized pebbles along its channel. The Rhône -emerges clear and blue. Read Ruskin's famous description from the -Fourth Book of the "Modern Painters:"-- - -"The blue waters of the arrowy Rhône rush out with a depth of fifteen -feet of not flowing but flying water; not water neither, melted -glacier matter, one should call it; the force of the ice is in it and -the wreathing of the clouds, the gladness of the sky and the -countenance of time." - -So we plashed along, crossing the Rhône by the Pont de la -Coulouvrenière, where we paused to wonder at the great city water -works installed in 1886 by the clever engineer, Turretini. The -so-called Forces Motrices, utilizing the swift descent of the Rhône -makes Geneva an ideal manufacturing city. Imagine six thousand horses -at work, never wearied, never requiring grain, noiseless, joyous! -Indeed there is something rather fine in the idea of turning the old -element, Water, into its Protean manifestation, light and electric -power. It goes through the turbines, sets them whirling and comes out, -having lost nothing by this tremendous output of energy--just as -clear, just as beautiful, just as sparkling. It does not harm an -element any more than it harms a man or a horse to do some useful -work. - -But it is evident that Switzerland, like other parts of the world, is -going to have some trouble to unite the interests of those that would -convert her hundreds of waterfalls into centres of manufacturing-power -and the interests of those that would keep scenic beauties free from -all mercantile desecration. What would the World of Travel say if some -concessionaire should take possession of the Staubbach, or as more -certain the Trümmelbach, and pipe it in an ugly steel stand-pipe to -create electrical energy for the purpose of manufacturing nitrates! -Yet even now there is a project for damming the Rhône between Pyremont -and Bellegarde. This structure would be one hundred and one meters in -height and would cause the water to back up even to the Swiss -frontier, submerging the whole valley. - -I may as well say here that I renewed acquaintance with my steamship -friend, M. Criant, and had the pleasure of going with him and my -nephew, some weeks later, when the river was much diminished in -volume, to that wonderful curiosity of nature called La Perte du -Rhône. We examined the narrow deep gorge between the Crêt d'Eau and -the Vuache Mountain and just above where the Rhône and the Valserine -meet, the river narrows to about fifteen meters in width. Here for a -distance of twenty kilometers it suddenly disappears. M. Criant -explained the cause of this "loss." The bed of the stream consisted of -two strata or matrasses--the upper harder than the lower. Stones of -various sizes brought down by the Arve and whirled around by the swift -current of the big torrent--falling not far from twenty-five meters -between Bellegarde and Malpertuis made pot-holes, and then when they -reached the softer strata they excavated it, making a tunnel: through -this the stream when reduced in volume makes its tortuous and invisible -way. - -M. Criant did not believe at all in the wisdom of building this dam -which would be one of the highest in the world. It would cover the -Perte du Rhône with a lake nearly seventy meters deep, and although -power enough would be created to supply all Lyons and perhaps be -carried as far as Paris, still it would be a menace to the safety of -the towns below. He agreed with his friend Professor Blondel, of the -Ecole Superieure des Ponts et Chaussées, that the whole valley of the -Rhône is in unstable equilibrium, and such a mass of water with its -enormous weight would be likely to tear out its walls and overwhelm -even Lyons with its catastrophe. He told me what was said by another -friend of his, M. E. A. Martel. He did this as a compliment, and I -hardly dared tell him what the Congress of the United States was -likely to do in turning over the wonderful Hetch-Hetchy Valley to the -water-seeking vandals of San Francisco. M. Martel said:-- - -"In the United States, that great country, famous for its monumental -works and the utilization of hydraulic forces, the discussion of the -two projects would not even be entered into; for the Americans who, -generally speaking, are not embarrassed with a sentiment for art, at -least respect and worship the natural beauties of their country. We -must recognize their talent for being able to conciliate at once the -protection of nature and the development of industries. Long since -they would have declared the Perte and the Canyon of the Rhône to be -a National Park and the two dams (lower down) would have become an -accomplished fact. - -"At Niagara Falls an agreement was made with the Canadian Government -so that the primitive natural aspect of the banks themselves was -preserved. Its immediate shores are freed from all installations, -constructions and parasitic shops. But this has not prevented the -establishment and development, in a discreet and invisible way, of -methods of taking the water above the falls, while the machinery that -transforms the force of the water into electric energy is placed -below, thereby not injuring the beautiful features of the landscape." - -M. Criant showed how easy it would be to solve the difficulty here in -a more economical way and at the same time make the approach to this -wonderful curiosity of nature more feasible. - -My nephew and I walked down as far as the end of the fascinating -Sentier des Saules, out to the very point where the two swirling -streams begin their passionate wooing. If it had been a pleasant -afternoon we should have crossed the Arve by the Pont de -Saint-Georges and penetrated the Bois de la Bâtie, but an umbrella -has no place in a grove, and so we came back by the boulevard named -for the same popular saint, past the Vélodrome and the gas works, the -cemetery of Plainpalais to the Place Neuve. Here we admired Le Grand -Théâtre, standing by itself with ample approaches and artistic façade -adorned with sculptures and stately columns. - -It is a splendid thing for a man, whether prince or pawnbroker, -enriched through the forced or accidental gift of the people, to -return his fortune in the form of a benefaction _en bloc_. This the -true osmose of wealth, to use a chemical figure. The slow flowing of -countless littles into the hands of the One Overmaster Great is -suddenly reversed. So it was with the fortune of Duke Charles II of -Brunswick, who died in 1873 and left Geneva twenty millions of francs -for public purposes. This has enabled Geneva to build the opera-house, -and to carry on many other municipal undertakings. Duke Charles had -fifteen years of sovereignty though a good part of that time he had to -be studying his lessons while a regent ruled for him. When he became -of age he became a tyrant and his people drove him out. He gave -Napoleon the Little pecuniary aid and expected to be reinstated, but -after 1848 that was hopeless. In 1870 he retired to Geneva and died -there. - -Of course the duke himself had to be commemorated by a decorative -monument and place was found for it between the Quai du Mont Blanc and -the plaza des Alpes. It takes up considerable room. There is a -platform more than sixty-seven meters long (two hundred and twenty-two -feet) and nearly twenty-five meters (seventy-eight feet) wide and -about twenty-one meters (sixty-six feet) high. On this stands a -three-story hexagonal canopy sheltering a sarcophagus bearing a -recumbent figure of the duke by Iguel, who also designed the reliefs -depicting historic events in Brunswick. At each of the six corners are -marble statues of his Guelf kinsmen. At a pedestal to the right is a -bronze equestrian statue of Charles II. Two colossal lions of yellow -marble, like those in Pilgrim's Progress warranted not to bite, guard -the entrance. The architect, Franel, went for his inspiration to the -flamboyant Gothic tomb of the Della Scala princes at Verona but it is -generally considered that he did not improve on his model. The -equestrian statue was at first mounted on top of the monument and -there are pictures of it in that position but apparently people -wondered how a horse could have climbed so high and so they made him -back down. - -Sculpture at its best is the most decorative of all the arts, at least -for out-of-doors, but mediocre statuary ought to be regarded as what -Mrs. Malaprop called a statuary offence. Geneva is not much more -fortunate than other cities in the appropriateness of its sculptures. - -Victor Hugo, who made a flying visit to Geneva in September, 1839, -thought the city had lost much by its so-called improvements. He did -not like it that the row of old worm-eaten dilapidated houses in the -Rue des Domes, which made such a picturesque lake-front, had been -demolished, and he thought the white quais with the white barracks -which the worthy Genovese regard as palaces could not compare with the -old dirty ramshackle city which he had known a dozen or so years -previous. He complained bitterly because they had been putting it -through a process of raking, scraping, levelling and weeding out, so -that with the exception of the Butte Saint-Pierre and the bridges -across the Rhône there was not an ancient structure left. He called it -"a platitude surrounded by humps." - -"Nothing," he said, "is more unattractive than these little imitation -Parises which one now finds in the provinces, in France and out of -France. In an ancient city with its towers and its carved -house-fronts, one expects to find historic streets, Gothic or Roman -bell-towers; but one finds an imitation Rue de Rivoli, an imitation -Madeleine resembling the façade of the Bobino Theater, an imitation -Column Vendôme looking like an advertising-tower." - -I wonder what he would have thought of the Duke Charles II imitation. -Nevertheless time has justified the Genevans; its brand-new quais are -no longer glaringly new, and "its yellow and its white and its plaster -and its chalk" have been toned down by time. It has grown into a truly -imperial city. I was surprised at the number of buildings of seven -stories and more; it cannot be called an imitation of Paris. - -In one of the second-hand book-shops--I wonder why they are always on -quais, where there are quais--I picked up an amusing little volume -entitled, "The Present State of Geneva," published in 1681 and -purporting to have been composed in Italian for the Great Duke of -Florence by Signior Gregorio Seti. He begins with this bold -statement:--"Geneva, as appears by some chronicles of the County of -Vaux, is one of the ancientist cities of Europe, being commonly -supposed to have been built by Lemanus, son of Hercules, the great -King of the Gaules, who gave his name likewise to the Lake Lemanus. -The first foundation of it was laid in the Year of the World 3994, -upon a little rising Hill covered with Juniper Trees called by the -French _Geneuriers_, from whence it afterwards took the name of -_Geneura_." - -He goes on to say:--"In the time of Julius Cæsar this City was of -great renown and by him called the Bulwork of Helvetia and frontiere -town of the Allobrogi, which name at present it deserves more than -ever. - -"When the eruption was made upon the _Swissers_ in the year of God -230, by the Emperor Heliogabalus Geneva was almost utterly destroyed -by Fire but in the Time of Aurelian the Emperour about the Year of -Grace 270, it was by the same Emperour rebuilt, who having bestowed -many priviledges on those that came to repair it, commanded it for the -future to be called Aurelia, but the inhabitants could not easily -banish from their minds the ancient name of Geneva which to this day -it bears, though during the Life of Aurelian they called it Aurelia." - -He tells how on the south it is "adorned with a spatious Neighboring -Plain reaching to the very Walls and encompassed by two large Rivers, -the _Rone_ and the _Arue_. This Plain," he says, "serves the Citizens -for a place of diversion and Recreation and here they walk to take the -Air and refresh themselves in the delightful Gardens which inviron it, -of which there is a great number. There likewise they train and -exercise their Souldiers and divert themselves at Play in a long Mall. - -"This Plain is commonly called the Plain Palace and in a Corner -thereof where the _Arue_ falls into the _Rone_ there is a spatious -burying place for the dead." - -At that time there were four bridges. All four had originally houses -and shops on them but in 1670 a terrible fire broke out on one of the -largest and most inhabited of them and destroyed seventy houses, -leaving one hundred and thirty families homeless and taking the lives -of more than a hundred persons. The new bridges that took the places -of the old ones were by edict freed from all such incumbrances, which, -however picturesque, are certainly dangerous and unsanitary. - -The little book contained a good deal of information in small space, -in spite of its erratic spelling. It stated, for instance, that Calvin -was originally buried in Plain Palace, but when the Genevians heard -that the Savoyards were coming "to dig up and insult over his bones -they were removed and buried within the cloyster of Saint Peter's -Church." - -We had plenty of time to go there. We could see its towers and spire -high in the driving clouds, and its roof, which reminded me of a -Western political-convention hall. Considering that it was built so -early as the Tenth Century, it ought to have the deepest historical -interest. Probably the Emperor Conrad, who founded it, would probably -hardly recognize it, so much has it been altered since his stormy life -closed. No wonder he wanted a cathedral in those Alps which he was for -ever crossing. As soon as he got out of sight down in Italy his German -subjects revolted; then when he had returned and punished them the -Italians would try to throw off his yoke. Life was not smooth for him -either as King of the Germans, or as Emperor of the Romans or as ruler -of the Burgundians, but five years before he died he saw his cathedral -consecrated. Something happened to it a couple of hundred of years -later (about the middle of the eighteenth century): it was probably -enlarged. Then its Romanesque style of architecture was made -ridiculous by a Corinthian portico. - -A Corinthian portico, being Greek, perhaps was not theoretically so -out of place if Don Gregorio Seti was right in telling us that "Saint -Peter's Church was in ancient times dedicated to Apollo, as is to be -seen in some very old inscriptions." - -[Illustration: SWISS MEDIAEVAL CARVINGS.] - -We went into the venerable edifice and my nephew suggested that I had -better initiate myself first of all by sitting down in the sacred -chair that once belonged to John Calvin. If there had been any risk of -inoculating myself with his grim and forbidding theology by sitting in -the seat of the Calvinists, be sure I should have refrained. Calvin -was a wonderful man, but at heart a tyrant. He could not endure -contradiction. Jerome Bolsec found that out when he got the better of -him in his argument on predestination: "You make God the author of -sin," said he, "for you say in your Institution, 'God foresaw Adam's -Fall and in this Fall the ruin of all mankind; but He willed it, He -ordered it and predetermined it in His eternal plan. God willed that -the Israelites should worship the golden calf and that men should be -guilty of the sins that they commit every day.' God being a simple and -changeless Being, how can He be in accord with Himself, since in Him -are two things contrary, Will and Not-will? How can He order and -forbid the same thing? On the other hand, if the Will of God is the -substance of God Himself, it is the cause of the sins committed by -men; consequently God is the author of evil." - -Calvin tried to creep out of the dilemma by saying:--"I have said that -God's will as a supernatural cause is the necessity for all things; -but I have declared at the same time that God does what He does with -such justice that even the wicked are constrained to glorify Him." - -Bolsec, who could see no equity in such a justice as that, would not -give in and Calvin used his power to exile him. He was forbidden to -return under pain of being whipped through all the squares of the -city. - -It is wonderful what an influence and for so long a time was exercised -by Calvin. Certainly during all the years while the fortifications -stood and the gates were shut at night no one dared contravene the -strict regulations which his theocracy enjoined. - -There are other famous people buried in the Cathedral of Saint Peter. -Near the main entrance is a tablet commemorating Théodore Agrippa -d'Aubigné, the Huguenot adviser to Henry IV who spent the last twenty -years of his life in Geneva and died there in 1630. He was the -grandfather of Madame de Maintenon, wife of a poet and wife of a king. -We noted the black tombstone to Cardinal Jean de Brogny who built the -lovely Gothic Chapelle des Macchabées, now excellently restored. "Anno -1628," says our friend Signior Seti, "was interred Emilia of Nassau -and sometime after the Princess her sister, both Sisters to the Prince -of Orange, Emilia being Wife to Don Antonio, King of Portugal, who was -banished by the Spaniards. In another Chappel lies the Body of the -Duke of Rohan, buried in the year 1638 in a most magnificent monument -built by the Dutchess, who was laid there also near her husband in the -year 1660, as their son Tancred was in the year 1661." - -Perhaps the "magnificent monument" is the black marble sarcophagus, -but the statue of the duke who was leader of the French Protestants -and fell at the battle of Rheinfelden is modern--the work of Iguel. - -His "Dutchess" was the daughter of the famous "reformer of finances," -the Duc de Sully, whose great scheme for an International Amphyctionic -Council supplied by the fifteen Christian States of Europe seems to -have fore-shadowed the modern Interparliamentary Union. - -By rare good fortune some one was practising on the excellent organ. -Whoever it was played a prelude and fugue of Bach and a brilliant -piece which I recognized as by Saint-Saëns. - -On our way back from the cathedral we swung round by the English -Garden and the National Monument with its two figures representing -symbolically Helvetia and Geneva. Like most such colossal sculptures -the farther away one gets the better it looks: that may be carried to -its logical extreme! Then we crossed the long Pont du Mont Blanc but -his Majesty was wholly hidden in the clouds. There were people -fishing, however, just as they have always fished from the beginning -of time. What says Signior Seti?--"Fishing in the Lake of this City is -very considerable both for the profit and pleasure; they commonly take -trouts of four score pound weight at twelve ounces the pound and in -the Middle of the River opposite it the Town preserve their fish alive -for use on two little deal board houses made for that purpose. In the -Summer time it is a very pleasant recreation to go a Fishing here and -both strangers and Citizens mightily delight in it." - -Not then, but at another time, I amused myself watching the dozens of -washerwomen by the riverside, in booths roofed over and closed at the -ends--leaning forward on their bare arms and spending more time -gossiping in their terrible dialect or watching the little boats -flying by. The Billingsgate of a Genevan _blanchisseuse_ is not so -melodious as the notes of a Vallombrosan nightingale, but it has a -picturesque quality all its own. - -As it was still raining we decided not to go out after dinner. But in -spite of the rain I confessed to myself that I liked my first sight of -Geneva and cherished a sneaking regret in my heart that Will and Ruth -had not chosen their residence there instead of locating at Lausanne. -Any place that is cheerful in a rain-storm is the place for me, and I -thought Geneva actually smiled through her tears, if I may so express -myself. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -SUNRISE AND ROUSSEAU - - -The weather showed unusual good humour by clearing in the night. -Geneva woke up to bright sparkling sunshine. I went out before -breakfast, indeed before sunrise, on the bridge, and had a most -glorious view up the lake and up to the very summit of Mont Blanc. -White as sugar, it lifted its aerial head into the azure--a solid -cloud which looked as if it might at any moment take wings and fly -away. A well-informed policeman told me the names of the other peaks: -L'Aiguille du Midi, nearly a thousand meters lower than the crowning -height: La Dent du Géant; Les Grandes Jorasses (from that same word, -_joux_, meaning rock); Les Aiguilles Rouges; La Mole, contrasting with -the sharp peak of the Aiguille d'Argentière, rightly suggesting -silver. If any one is satisfied with a distant prospect of mountains, -his eye would never weary of that glorious sight; but there is an -attractive power in the great mountain-masses. They beckon, they -say:--"Come to us; we want you; you are ours." - -[Illustration: LES GRANDES JORASSES.] - -That is, however, a wholly modern conception. If in the old days human -consciousness felt the call, heard the summons, it was with the horror -with which a bird feels the impulse to fly into the serpent's jaws. -Not so many years ago the popular imagination filled the ravines of -the higher mountains with other terrors besides the frost. Dragons -haunted caverns; with bated breath men told of having seen the dance -of Wotan on the Diablerets, or of having heard fiends playing -nine-pins with great stones which, when they missed their mark, went -dashing and crashing down into the valleys. What herdsman would dare -approach the Grotte de Balme, that cavern, hollowed out in the -limestone rock, where dark-skinned fairies, with no heels to their -feet, but with long, rippling hair, lured young men to their -destruction! There was the spectral ram of Monthey; there was the -three-legged horse of Sion; there was the giant ox of Zauchet, with -glowing horns and flaming torch of a tail; there was the blue-haired -donkey of Zermatt. Down from the mountains to Neuchâtel there used to -come a ghost, wearing a cloth dripping with blood, and vanishing -toward the lake. It was that of the widow of Walther, Comte de -Rochefort, publicly accused of forgery and beheaded in 1412. The sight -of her presaged a conflagration. - -The Lord of Grimmelstein killed a doe and her fawns and was condemned -to hunt through the mountains--one of those famous Wild Hunts which -are accompanied by terrible tempests, and overwhelming snows. - -There was a herd of chamois tended by dwarfs. Woe to those hunters who -killed too many! - -As in Schiller's poem, the gazelle climbs to the ruggedest top of the -naked precipice with the huntsman close behind and, just as he is -about to fit the arrow to the string, the ancient Spirit of the -Mountain, the good Genius of the trembling creature, appears to -him:--"Earth has room for all to dwell--Why chase my belov'd gazelle?" - -At the entrance of the Rhône into the lake there used to be low banks -and wandering islands. Here dwelt the nixies and their queen, Finetta -of the White Hand. She wore lilies in her golden hair. Any one who saw -her was sure to die within a year. - -That most delightful and poetic and enthusiastic of mountain-climbers, -Emile Javelle, made friends with the guides and herdsmen, and was for -ever eliciting from them avowals of their belief in spirits and -dragons. He says that any night passed among the good herdsmen of -Salanfe, under the Dent du Midi, will be rich in old tales, and he -thus relates the legend of the Monster of the Jorat:-- - -"The herdsmen tell me that formerly (some even think they can recall -the time) there dwelt on the Col du Jorat, a monster, a dragon, in -fine an animal of unknown species and horrible aspect, who guarded the -passage of the Col by night. He had already claimed many victims and -the boldest hunters dared not attack him. Night having fallen, he -descended from the glacier. He reigned over the whole mountain, and -woe betide the man who approached the Jorat. - -"One day, at last, a man of the Rhône valley had been condemned to -death. He possessed uncommon strength and boldness. Pardon was offered -him on condition that he should fight the monster and succeed in -destroying him. He accepted, climbed up to Salanfe, waited for night -and mounted the path of the Jorat. It is said that the battle was -terrible; but the man was victorious and tranquillity was after that -restored to the pastures of Salanfe." - -Javelle explained the reluctance of the mountaineers at climbing to -the upper heights by this universal belief in supernatural powers, and -he explained the belief in these supernatural powers by their very -familiarity with the strange phenomena of the mountains:--"They see -the boulders come rolling down from the cliffs, the avalanches -breaking off from the heights and dashing down to demolish their -châlets--in the heights originate the storms; and there also they hear -those mysterious crackings of the glacier. It is not strange that such -phenomena should be explained by them in legends." - -Their imagination, too, is shown in the various names which they -confer on the Devil. He is Lo Grabbi, the Miser; La Bêta Crotze -(Bête-à-griffe), the beast with claws; Le Niton, the Tricky One; Lo -Tannai, Cavern-haunter; L'Ozé or Lo Maffi, the Sly One; Lo To-frou, -the Always Abroad. One of his assistants is the Nion-neloû -(Nul-ne-l'entend), who hides behind trees and jumps out to scare -horses. The Diablerets are the very stamping-ground of dwarfs, gnomes, -and dragons. When a pinnacle is doomed to fall, they quarrel as to -its direction. At Rubli these supernatural beings are called _gommes_: -they guard mines; at night they are seen as meteors going from place -to place. - - * * * * * - -Whence came the great heaps of stones, as for instance at the foot of -Jolimont? We know that these vast masses, often of a different kind of -rock from that characteristic of the locality, were brought down by -glaciers; but the ignorant peasants attribute them to Satan, who, of -course, was intending to crush some Christian church with them, but, -perhaps through catching sight of a cross, was compelled to drop them. -Some of these stones are of enormous size--the Plowstone, for -instance, which rises almost twenty meters (sixty feet) above the -ground between Erlenbach and Wetzweil and has been traced to its -original source in the canton of Glarus. - -But there is one more than twice as big at Montet, near Devent, and -when, later, we were going over the Monte Moro pass, we saw one near -the Mattmark See which it is estimated contains two hundred and forty -thousand cubic feet of Serpentine. Clever old Devil to get rid of his -burden! The Swiss Government now prohibits breaking up these blocks -of stone for building purposes. This was due to the initiative of the -Swiss Scientific Societies. - -Forbes, in his "Travels through the Alps of Savoy," gives a very good -description of these masses of rock as seen at Monthey, overlooking -the valley of the Rhône:-- - -"We have here a belt or band of blocks--poised, as it were, on a -mountain-side, it may be five hundred feet above the alluvial flat -through which the Rhône winds below. This belt has no great vertical -height, but extends for miles--yes, for miles--along the mountain, -composed of blocks of granite of thirty, forty, fifty, and sixty feet -to the side, not a few, but by hundreds, fantastically balanced on the -angles of one another, their gray weather-beaten tops standing out in -prominent relief from the verdant slope of secondary formation on -which they rest. For three or four miles there is a path, preserving -nearly the same level, leading amidst the gnarled stems of ancient -chestnut-trees which struggle round and among the pile of blocks, -which leaves them barely room to grow: so that numberless combinations -of wood and rock are formed where a landscape-painter might spend days -in study and enjoyment." - -The very Pierres de Niton which entered into the foreground of the -picture which I was contemplating have been traced to the Saint -Bernard, and it is estimated that it took a thousand years for the -glacier to bring them down from that height and deposit them in what -is now the lake. - -As I stood there I was especially led to think of the influence that -Jean-Jacques Rousseau is supposed to have exerted in stimulating -people to enjoy the grander aspects of Nature. Literature, before -Rousseau's time, has little to say of the beauty of mountains. They -were regarded with annoyance as obstacles, with terror as filled with -dangers. Joseph Addison, speaking of the Savoy Alps, says they are -"broken into so many steeps and precipices that they fill the mind -with an agreeable kind of horror and form one of the most irregular, -mis-shapen scenes in the world." - -I am not sure but Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who became Baron d'Aubonne, -from the name of his estate near Geneva, does not deserve priority. -After he had ended his travels in the Far East and had decided to -settle in Switzerland he wrote his friends in Paris of his choice: - -"Friends, I have long been looking for a country-house where to end -my life in tranquillity. - -"Now you would doubtless choose France; it is the loveliest country in -the world; no other approaches it. - -"Gentlemen, France is a charming, delightful country, I agree with -you, ... but my heart and my eyes are in Switzerland. - -"'What! That country of ice and sterile mountains, whose inhabitants -would not have a quarter of the subsistence necessary for them, if -other countries did not support a large part of its inhabitants!' - -"You know Switzerland very well, as I can see. Gentlemen, such as it -is, for me it is the loveliest country in the world." - -It was one of the boasts before Rousseau's time that a seigneur's -place should have no view. Both Madame de Genlis, in Voltaire's -lifetime, and James Fenimore Cooper, fifty years after the great -Frenchman's death, noticed the fact that the view from Ferney was -quite cut off by shrubbery, evidently showing that he cared little for -it. Madame de Staël, though she was sympathetic enough with Rousseau, -cared little for natural scenery. When some enthusiastic visitors were -praising the beauties of Lake Leman she exclaimed:--"Oh for the -gutters of the Rue de Bac." - -But, after all, it is only fair to give Rousseau's own words, his -invitation to the world to come to Switzerland and share with him -these marvellous scenes. They are eloquent words, indeed! Nor did they -fall on unheeding ears. - -"I conduct you to the loftiest mountains of the old world, to the most -ancient laboratory of Nature, where she operated with boundless energy -before man existed, and where she produces objects of inexpressible -sublimity and beauty, now that there are mortals to admire them. I -conduct you to the secret sources of the rivers that irrigate and -fertilize half Europe. I conduct you on one and the same day from the -scorching heat of Spain to the cold of Lapland or Spitzbergen; from -the vine and the chestnut-tree to the Alpine rose, and from the Alpine -rose to the last insignificant moss that grows on the extreme verge of -animated Nature. - -"You shall find fragrance in flowers, which in the valleys yield no -scent; you shall pluck strawberries on the margin of everlasting ice. - -"I conduct you to the fountain of the dews and rains that dispense -blessings over half our quarter of the globe; to the birthplace of -refreshing breezes and of storms which temper and purify the -atmosphere. - -"I conduct you to the clearest and freshest springs, the most -magnificent water-falls, the most extensive glaciers, the most -stupendous snow-clad mountains and the most fertile pastures. The -tremendous avalanche shall pursue before you its thundering career. - -"The brilliant crystal, the swift chamois, the harmless marmot, the -soaring eagle, the rapacious vulture, as unusual objects, will strike -your eye and excite pleasure and admiration. - -"From the toiling husbandman you will ascend to the happy cowherd. -Innumerable flocks of cattle, of extraordinary beauty and spirit, will -bound about you. In the foaming milk and the clotted cream you will -taste of the riches of the country which are poured forth into the -most distant regions. - -"But, above all, you will be delighted with the inhabitants, men -of rare symmetry of form, active and robust, cheerful and -independent,--women, decked with unsophisticated charms and graces and -manifesting the childlike curiosity and the engaging confidence of the -ancient ages of innocence. - -"Old traditions and rural songs will meet your ear, and the picture -presented in the idyls of Theocritus will be realized, but on a -grander scale and with more diversified accompaniments. - -"Lastly, in those elevated regions you will yourself become better; -you will verify the promise of the moral philosopher; you will feel -greater facility of respiration, more suppleness and vigor of body, -and greater buoyancy of spirits. All the passions are here softened -down and pleasure is less intense. The mind is led into a grand and -sublime train of thought, suited to the objects which surround us; it -is filled with a certain calm delight unalloyed with anything that is -painful or sensual. It seems as if in rising above the habitations of -men we left behind us all base and earthly feelings; and as if the -soul in approaching nearer to the ethereal heaven acquired somewhat of -its unruffled serenity." - -And quite à propos, it seems to me, here is Rousseau's famous -description of the sunrise: - -"Let us betake ourselves to some lofty place before the Sun appears. -We see him announced from afar by the fiery darts which he sends -before him. The fire increases; the east seems all in flames. By -their dazzling splendor one looks for the orb long before it shows -itself. Each instant one thinks to see it appear. There it is at last! -A brilliant point shoots off like a flash and instantly fills all -space.... - -"The veil of darkness is rent and falls; man recognizes his -dwelling-place and finds it ever-more more beautiful. During the night -the verdure has taken on new vigor; the dawning day which lights it, -the first rays which gild it, bring it before us with a glittering -panoply of dew, flashing brilliant colors into our eyes. The birds -join in chorus and salute the father of life. The concourse of all -these objects brings to the senses an impression of freshness which -seems to penetrate into the depths of the soul. Here is a half-hour of -enchantment which no man can resist. A spectacle so grand, so -beautiful, so delicious, leaves no one unmoved." - -Rousseau attributed his love of Nature to the two peaceful years which -he spent at the parsonage at Borsey, developing as they did his taste -and enabling him later to bring about a complete revolution in the -esthetic and literary tendencies of the century. If Rousseau got up to -see a sunrise, why, then it became the fashion to get up and see -sunrises; if Rousseau went to a high mountain-top, then it became -fashionable to go to high mountain-tops. Here is his recipe for -mountain-climbing, written after he had made an excursion on foot to -Valais in the Autumn of 1759:-- - -"I gradually realized that the purity of the air was the real cause of -the return of that interior peace which I had lost so long. In fact on -high mountains, where the air is pure and subtle, we feel a greater -facility in breathing, greater physical lightness, greater mental -serenity. Our meditations take on a peculiar character of grandeur and -sublimity, proportioned to the objects surrounding us. It seems as if -in rising above the dwellings of men, we left behind all low and -terrestrial thoughts and, in proportion as we approach the upper -regions, the soul attains something of their changeless purity. Here -we are grave, but not melancholy; peaceful, but not indolent; simply -content to be and to think. I doubt if any violent agitation, if any -_maladie des vapeurs_ could resist such a sojourn if prolonged, and I -am amazed that baths in the wholesome and beneficent mountain-air are -not one of the sovereign remedies of medicine and morals." - -The same idea is found in quaint lines in a Mountain Poem by Usteri: - - "Uf Bergen, uf Bergen - Da isch's eim so wohl - De Berg is de Doktor - Für Seel und für Lyb!" - -Alexander Pope and other old English writers are always talking about -fits of "vapours." I wonder how the name arose, and why it went -out of style. Vapour comes from water, tears are water; hence -vapours,--perhaps that is the logic of the term. Of course then they -would evaporate in the dry mountain-air. - -I recollected how Rousseau loved this very lake. I remembered his -apostrophe to it after he had been out sailing on it:-- - -"As we skirted the shores, I admired the rich and charming landscapes -of the Pays de Vaud, where the hosts of villages, the green and -well-kept terraces on all sides form a ravishing picture; where the -land, everywhere cultivated and everywhere fertile, offers the -plowman, the herdman, the vintner the assured fruit of their labors, -not devoured as elsewhere by the grasping tax-collector.... The lake -was calm. I kept perfect silence. The even and measured noise of the -oars set me to dreaming. A cloudless sky, the coolness of the air, the -sweet rays of the moon, the silvery shimmer of the water shining -around us, filled me with the most delicious sensations. Oh, my -lake! thou hast a charm which I cannot explain, which does not arise -wholly from the beauty of the scene, but from something more -interesting, which affects me and touches me. When the eager desire of -this sweet and happy life for which I was born comes to kindle my -imagination, it always attaches itself to the lake." - -[Illustration: ACROSS LAKE LEMAN.] - -And then again his poignant cry of farewell: - -"Oh, my lake, on the shores of which I spent the peaceful years of -mine infancy, charming landscapes where for the first time I witnessed -the majestic and touching sunrise, where I felt the first emotions of -my heart, the first impulse of genius, alas! become too imperious.... -Oh, my lake, I shall never see thee more." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -THE CITY OF ROUSSEAU AND CALVIN - - -Apparently Geneva is prouder of being the Mother of Rousseau than of -having adopted Calvin. Both were exiled--Calvin by his enemies; -Rousseau by his worst enemy, himself. Calvin, having settled the basis -of his theology, built himself on it, never shaken; Rousseau canted -and recanted and rerecanted. He was a Protestant; he was a Catholic; -he was a free-thinker; he was a deist. - -Once, at Madame d'Epinay's, Saint Lambert avowed himself an atheist. -Rousseau exclaimed:--"If it is cowardice to allow anyone to say ill -about an absent friend, then it is a crime to allow anyone to say evil -of his God who is present, and, gentlemen, I believe in God." - -Saint Lambert indulged in still another sneering remark and Rousseau -threatened to leave if anything more of the kind were said. - -Curiously enough, Rousseau, who was a stickler for free speech, sided -against Voltaire in his battle against Calvinism. He saw that the -great scoffer wanted to upset the habits and customs of Calvin's city, -to introduce a love of pleasure and of luxury and especially of the -theatre. He wrote:-- - -"So Voltaire's weapons are satire, black falsehood, and libels. Thus -he repays the hospitality which Geneva by a fatal indulgence has shown -him. This fanfaron of impiety, this lofty genius and this low soul, -this man so great through his talents, so base (_vil_) in his use of -them, will leave long and cruel memories among us. Ridicule, that -poison of good sense and of uprightness, satire, enemy of the public -peace, flabbiness, arrogant pomp will henceforth make a people of -trivialities, of buffoons, of wits, of commerce, who in place of the -consideration once enjoyed by our literary men will put Geneva on the -level of the Academies of Marseilles and of Angers." - -This letter was widely circulated. Voltaire, who might have been more -offended by its lack of style than by its attack on him, henceforth -used every opportunity to injure and insult Rousseau. - -When "Emile" appeared it shocked the theologians. The City ordered it -to be burned by the official hangman. The Church said to him:--"You -extol the excellence of the Gospel yet you destroy its dogmas. You -paint the beauty of the virtues yet you snuff them out in the souls of -your readers." He was even condemned by Parliament to be imprisoned. -The pious Jacob Vernet, Pastor Mouton and Pastor Vernes wrote him -letters expressing their admiration of his talents but criticizing -some of his views. After he published his "Lettres de la Montagne," -which caused a terrible hubbub, Vernes, Chapuis and Claparède publicly -attacked him. - -Voltaire wrote:--"Grand and edifying spectacle presented by the -venerable Company of Pastors at Geneva! While the Government is -burning Rousseau's books, the clergy approves of them and finds itself -very happy to be reduced to a natural religion which proves nothing -and asks little." - -And those that stoned the prophets raise monuments to them. Calvin, -whom Rousseau called "_esprit dur et farouche_," has no monument, -unless a street named after him may be considered as one; but Rousseau -has a whole island with a big bronze statue on it and a street -besides. - -This is the substance of our breakfast-table conversation. When we had -finished our coffee and rolls we started out for a long walk. Ruth, -like a woman, wanted to look at the shops; Will and I would go hunting -for Rousseau and Calvin. - -For a long time a house in Geneva bore the inscription:-- - - ICI EST NE - JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU - LE 28 JUIN - 1712. - -But that was a mistake. It is now known that he was born in his -father's house, Number 2, Grand' Rue, and there he lived till 1719. -Then he went to live at 73, Rue de Constance. His father, Isaac -Rousseau, though of a family which had emigrated from Paris, where -they had been booksellers, and had for two hundred years enjoyed a -highly respectable position in the bourgeoisie of Geneva, was regarded -as rather frivolous. Probably that was because he varied his trade of -watch-making by giving dancing-lessons. Dancing in the city of Calvin, -in spite of the illustrious example of King David before the Ark of -the Tabernacle, was regarded with little favour. He engaged in a -quarrel with the retired Captain Goutier and they fought a duel -contrary to the law. Goutier was wounded. On investigation Isaac was -found guilty and condemned to beg pardon on his two knees. He chose to -expatriate himself, and Jean Jacques went to live with his Uncle -Bernard at 19, Grand' Rue, and at Bossey with Pastor Lambercie. His -education was not wholly neglected. He himself says:-- - -"At the age of seven I used to read books of history with my father. -Plutarch became my favourite study. Agesilaus, Brutus, Aristotle were -my heroes; from the discussions which these readings caused between my -father and me, grew that free and republican spirit, that proud -indomitable character, impatient of any yoke or servitude, which has -so tormented me all the days of my life. Born a citizen of a republic, -son of a father whose patriotism was his strongest passion, I took -fire by his example; constantly occupied with Athens and Rome, I -became the very person whose life I was reading; the story of the acts -of constancy and bravery which struck me, made my eyes sparkle, my -voice grow strong." - -Whatever his training really was, for he is not always a reliable -chronicler of his own actions, he contrasts what he considered the -ideal up-bringing of children as conducted in Switzerland with that -of the French children. His words were destined to bear fruit:-- - -"Is it not supremely ridiculous to educate boys like young girls? Ah, -it is truly fine to see these little twelve-year-old fops, walking -out, their hands plump, their voices delicate (_flutées_), with pretty -green parasols to protect them from the sun. They were less finical in -my country: children, brought up in rustic fashion, had no complexions -to preserve; they feared no harm from the air. Their fathers took them -out hunting and gave them all kinds of exercise. They were reserved -and modest in the presence of their elders; they were bold, proud, -even quarrelsome, among themselves; they were rivals in wrestling, -running, boxing; they were skilled in fencing. They came home rugged; -they were genuine little rascals; but they grew into men whose hearts -were full of zeal in their country's service and ready to give their -lives for her." - -In April, 1725, he was apprenticed to an engraver, named Abel -Ducommun, Rue des Etuves, Number 96, third floor. He liked the trade, -for, as he says, he had a lively taste for drawing; but his master was -brutal, and at last, on a Sunday evening in March, 1728, having been -locked out of the city through returning too late from a long walk -beyond the walls and having spent the night wretchedly on the glacis -"in a transport of despair" he suddenly swore never to return to his -master's. Rogers, in one of his poems, thus refers to this -inhospitality on the part of Geneva, which, of course, was possible -only in a small city surrounded with walls:-- - - "On my way I went. - Thy gates, Geneva, swinging heavily, - Thy gates so slow to open, swift to shut; - As on that Sabbath-eve when He arrived, - Whose name is now thy glory, now by thee - Such virtue dwells in those small syllables, - Inscribed to consecrate the narrow street. - His birth-place,--when but one short step too late, - In his despair, as though the die were cast, - He flung him down to weep and wept till dawn; - Then rose to go, a wanderer through the world." - -He wandered away till he came to the little Catholic town of -Confignon, two leagues from Geneva, and became the guest and protégé -of the vicar M. de Pontverre, who gave him delicious Frangi wine and -attempted to convince him that the heresy of Geneva was ruinous to -hopes of salvation. - -"Though M. de Pontverre was a religious man," says Rousseau, "he was -not a virtuous man, but rather a bigot, who knew no virtue except -worshiping images and telling his beads; in a word, a kind of -missionary who thought it a supreme merit to compose libels against -the ministers of Geneva. Far from wishing to send me back, he -endeavoured to favour my escape and put it out of my power to return, -even if I had been so disposed. There were a thousand chances to one -that he was going to let me perish of starvation or become a rascal; -all this was apart from his purpose: he saw a soul snatched from -heresy and restored to the bosom of the Church: whether I were an -honest man or a knave was immaterial, provided I went to mass." - -At Annecy was living Madame de Warens, who had robbed her husband of -his forks, knives and spoons, involved him in debts, and deserted him -for the sake of embracing Catholicism. She was earning a pension of -two thousand francs a year from the King of Sardinia by using her new -and fervent zeal in the work of propaganda. M. de Pontverre gave -Rousseau a letter to the fair and frail baroness. This is what the -vicar said:-- - -"I send you Jean Jacques Rousseau, a youth who has abandoned his -country; he seems to me of a happy character. He spent a day with me; -and God summons him to Annecy. - -"Try to encourage him to embrace Catholicism. It is a triumph to bring -about conversion. You will understand as well as I do that for this -great work he must be kept at Annecy, for fear he may receive evil -instructions elsewhere. Be careful to intercept all letters that might -be written from his country, for if he thinks he is abandoned he will -the sooner abjure. I put the whole matter into the hands of the -Almighty and yours, which I kiss." - -"Madame de Warens at that time," says Rousseau, "was young and -charming; she was rich and noble; she had a naturally lively wit; she -liked reading and pondering over what she read, devoting herself now -to works of piety, now to the works of the learned Bayle, the Voltaire -of his day; she was of a sweet disposition and her society was much -sought; she had a good husband and they led an easy life together; her -days were cast in a peaceful and prosperous epoch; she spent her best -years in those enchanting scenes in the Pays de Vaud, where Lake Leman -spreads its limpid waves, at the foot of the lofty mountains of Savoy, -in a country fertile and productive." - -Not in too great a hurry to get there, sauntering along, stopping to -earn a bite by singing under château windows, he finally, on Palm -Sunday, met that paragon. - -Years afterwards he asked himself why he could not enclose with a -golden balustrade the happy spot where first he saw her and render it -the object of universal veneration. - -To many much of the spell of Switzerland comes from the magic of -Rousseau's love for the fair and facile deserter and from the immortal -romance in which as Saint-Preux and Julie their idealized amour lived -again. She must not escape us thus: we shall learn more of her in -another place. - -Rousseau declared that he expected to find a devout and forbidding old -woman; instead he "saw a face beaming with charms, fine blue eyes full -of sweetness, a complexion which dazzled the sight, the lovely lines -of an enchanting bosom" and he was henceforth hers. She put him -immediately at his ease and sent him a little later to Turin, where he -felt himself constrained to sell his religion: it was at the price of -his self-respect, but he did many things at that price first and last. -More important in his development was his acquaintance with the Abbé -Gaime, who, like so many abbés, was a deist and did not believe in -supernatural revelation or in the miracles; but he seems to have been -a man of high character whose principles often kept Rousseau from -regrettable acts. - -After his disappointing experiences in Turin, as draughtsman, footman, -clerk, beggarman, thief, he returned to Annecy. Madame de Warens asked -her cousin, M. d'Aubonne, "a man of great understanding and -cleverness," but an adventurer, to examine Rousseau as to whether it -were best for him to be a merchant or an abbé or an engineer. Rousseau -says: "The result of his observations was that, notwithstanding the -animation of my countenance and promising exterior, I was, if not -absolutely silly, at least a lad of very little sense and wholly -lacking original ideas or learning." - -Later M. d'Aubonne lost his position through having paid too violent -attention to the wife of the intendant, and out of revenge he wrote a -comedy which he sent to Madame de Warens. "Let us see if I am as -stupid as M. d'Aubonne insists I am," cried Rousseau. "I am going to -make a play like his." - -He did so. It was entitled, "Narcisse ou l'Amour de Lui-même." -Eighteen years later he had it played at Paris but it fell flat. -Rousseau left the theatre, went to the Café Procope, the rendezvous -of all the wits, and exclaimed--"The new piece has failed; it deserved -to fail; it bored me; it is by Rousseau of Geneva and I am Rousseau." - -[Illustration: FRIBOURG.] - -Perhaps, after all, the most comical episode in Rousseau's life took -place in Lausanne. - -It was in 1732. He had been on a trip to Fribourg, on foot, for he was -fond of walking, even when he was so troubled with corns that he had -to step on his heels. Instead of returning by way of Nyon he proceeded -along the north shore, wishing to revel in the view of the lake, which -is seen in its greatest extent at Lausanne. Then the brilliant idea -seized him to pass himself off for a music-teacher, just as his friend -Venture had done on arriving at Annecy. He describes the adventure at -some length in his memoirs as follows:-- - -"I became so much excited with this idea that, without thinking that I -had neither his grace nor his talents, I took it into my head to play -at Lausanne the part of a little Venture, to teach music, which I did -not know how to do, and to say that I was from Paris, where I had -never been.... I endeavoured to approach as near as possible to my -great model. He called himself Venture de Villeneuve; I by an anagram -converted the name of Rousseau into that of Vaussore, and I called -myself Vaussore de Villeneuve. Venture understood composition, -although he had said nothing about it; I, without understanding it, -boasted of my knowledge of it to everybody, and although I did not -know how to note down the simplest ballad, gave myself out as a -composer. This is not all. Having been presented to M. de Treytorens, -professor of law, who was fond of music, and had concerts at his -house, and being anxious to give him a specimen of my talents, I set -myself to composing a piece for his concert with as much effrontery as -if I had known how to go about it. I had the perseverance to work for -a fortnight at this precious composition, to make a fair copy of it, -to write out the different parts, and to distribute them with as much -assurance as if it had been a masterpiece of harmony." - -Imagine the discords! But his "executioners" made him beat time to the -end, though they could see that sweat-drops of agony were pearling on -his brow. That he escaped with his life is a wonder. I read somewhere -that the house where this contretemps took place is still standing, -but I could not find any one who might point it out to me. The fame -which he thus won as a composer and kapellmeister did not bring him -any pupils and he went on to Vevey of which he says:-- - -"I conceived for that town an affection which has followed me in all -my travels, and caused me at length to place there the characters of -my novel. I would gladly say to those who possess taste and -sensibility, Go to Vevey, visit the adjacent country, examine the -localities, go about upon the lake, and say if nature has not made -this beautiful region for a Julie, for a Claire, and for a -Saint-Preux; but do not look for them there." - -Rousseau returned to Geneva in 1739 to secure the inheritance which -was due him from his mother's estate. The City might have gobbled it -up, since he had abjured the Protestant religion; perhaps it was too -small to attract the attention of the authorities; he secured it, -spent some of it on books and gave the rest to Madame de Warens. He -met his father there, who also was unmolested, although the judgment -against him, from the consequences of which he had escaped, was still -on the black book. Rousseau intended to return to live in Geneva. He -had become famous, and when he renounced the Catholic faith he was -reinstated in his rights of citizenship, but once more his conflict -with orthodoxy rendered it an unsafe place for him. There seemed to -be no room for him anywhere. The peasants drove him out of Neuchâtel, -though Marshal Keith, who represented Frederick the Great there, made -him welcome. Bern sought him out in his island home in the Lake of -Bienne to lay heavy hand upon him. He was unhappy in England, and even -his last home at Ermenonville witnessed his violent death, as it is -now believed by some, at the hands of the ignorant and jealous -Thérèse. - -Really, Geneva has little to show directly connected with Rousseau -beyond the mislabelled place of his birth. Yet the whole Lake of -Geneva is redolent of his glory. Not far from the haunts of his youth -lived Calvin, who would have probably been as ready to burn Rousseau -as he was to burn Servetus. La Grand' Rue runs between the cathedral -and the University, and almost parallel is La Rue Calvin where the -great theocrat abode. Of course we went there and did our _hommages_ -to the shades of the departed. - -There is a deal of individuality in the names of city streets--that -is, there may be. One would expect monotony of architecture in those -simply numbered or lettered. But Geneva has charming names, suggesting -romance, theology and history. If it has its Rue des Eaux Vives, -which might well suggest heaven, it has also its Rue de l'Enfer and -its Rue du Purgatoire. Of course there is a Rue Voltaire. Pleasant -things are suggested by the Rue du Montchoisy, or that of Beaulieu. -But as cities change, once respectable or even fashionable -thoroughfares lose their vogue and even become slums. - -From Calvin's old residence we went to the Hôtel de Ville, which has a -commanding situation. It was interesting not alone because of its -elegant Renaissance architecture, its ramp whereby an equestrian mayor -might ride up to the third story--it was built between the sixth and -seventh decades of the Sixteenth Century--or because of the ancient -frescoes in the Council Chamber, but perhaps most of all, to an -American or an Englishman, because in one of its rooms sat the -epoch-making commission which settled for fifteen and a half millions, -awarded to the United States the Alabama claims, and thus made the -longest stride since the beginning of the world toward the sensible -and feasible way of settling questions which would be likely to lead -to war. - -England was represented by her Lord Chief Justice, Sir Alexander James -Edward Cockburn, with Sir Roundel Palmer as counsel; the United -States sent Charles Francis Adams with William M. Evarts, Caleb -Cushing and Morrison R. Waite; Switzerland's arbitrator was her -one-time president, Jacob Stamepfli; the other two judges were the -Brazilian Minister to France and Count Federigo Sclopis of Italy, who -was the chairman. The arbitrators sat from December, 1871, until -September 14, 1872. Such vital interests were at stake that the world -almost held its breath; for had both parties not honourably held by -the decision--ignoring the dissatisfied extremists who would have -preferred to fight rather than yield--there would have befallen the -worst war of the ages. Where such enormous financial interests were at -issue the fact that a question involving so many untried questions of -international law could be settled peaceably was a triumph of -civilization. Sacred then for ever be that upper room; it should be -regarded as more worthy of pious pilgrimage than almost any other spot -in this round world, for, if its precedent should be carried out, it -would spell the emancipation of the world from the terrible incubus of -militarism, from the needless crushing burden of enormous armies and -wasteful navies. - -From the City Hall we proceeded to the University. We were fortunate -enough to fall in with a genial professor who, as soon as he learned -that we were Americans, not only took the greatest pains to point out -to us all the notable buildings but also told us a good deal about the -history of the institution. - -It seems that as far back as the middle of the Fourteenth Century the -Emperor Charles IV proposed to found a university, but other affairs -choked the good seed. The idea was revived by Cardinal Jean de Brogny, -Bishop of Geneva, who died in 1462. Two years after his death the -Conseil Général passed an order for establishing a public school on -the Place below the Monastery of the Frères Mineurs de Rive. There -happened to be living at that time a rich and generous old merchant of -a noble family, named François de Versonnex. He had already founded -two hospitals, but the plan of a public school appealed to him, and, -in January, 1429, he built an edifice ninety-four feet long and -thirty-four feet wide, near the church of those Frères Mineurs and -presented it to the city. Instructions in grammar, logic, rhetoric and -the other liberal arts--philosophy, arithmetic, geometry, astronomy -and music--was to be gratuitous: his only condition was that the -pupils should every morning kneel before the altar and repeat an Ave -Maria and a Pater Noster for the repose of the donor's soul. - -This became known as the "Grande Eschole." It had an ample garden, -stretching down to the lake, with plenty of room for the boys to play. -After more than a century, in spite of repairs, it became -uninhabitable, and in 1535, the year before Bonivard returned to -Geneva, the Council ordered the school to be removed to the Couvent -des Cordeliers de Rive (now commemorated in the Rue des Cordeliers), a -building which since the Thirteenth Century had occupied a site on the -shore. It was torn down in 1769 to make room for a granary. - -There must have been much cultivation in those days in Geneva. -Bonivard speaks about the learned men he knew personally or by -reputation. He, himself, was versed in Latin, Italian and German. He -was the founder of the University Library, which now contains more -than one hundred thousand books and fifteen hundred or more -manuscripts. Under Antoine Saulnier or Sonier, who was appointed to -direct the school in 1536, at a salary of one hundred écus d'or sol, -equivalent to four hundred and forty florins, it made rapid progress -and began to attract pupils from abroad. But Sonier was Calvin's -appointee and Calvin's enemies were then in power; about that time -they succeeded in banishing both Calvin and Farel, and they robbed -Sonier of his two best assistants. Then Sonier summoned the famous -Mathurin Cordier of Bordeaux, the author of a Latin book still in use. -The Council went on heckling Sonier and he resigned and went to -Lausanne. He helped found the University there. - -Of course the school then degenerated. Some of the masters whipped -children so brutally that it drew blood. When Calvin was recalled and -again took command, he engaged Sébastien Chatillon of Nantua, an -elegant Latinist and possessed also of Greek and Hebrew, but soon -quarrelled with him, causing him to resign. Chatillon afterwards -taught Latin at Bâle but almost starved there. - -In 1550, Calvin discovered Louis Enoch of Issoudun, in Berri. He was -Regent for seven years. He was made a bourgeois and installed as a -minister. When the school was reorganized as a college in 1559 he -became its Regent. The buildings were deathly, however, and even Enoch -could not live in them. Finally, when the Perrinists, Calvin's -bitterest enemies, were defeated, he saw his chance. At the top of the -Rue Verdaine was the Hospital of the Bourg-de-Four, which as the -_domus hospitalis de foro veteri_ had been founded in the Thirteenth -Century by a member of an ancient and noble family. Attached to it was -a garden. Above the Hospital on the hill rising steeply from Rive to -Saint-Antoine there were what were called Hutins Bolomier,--or -hillocks,--on which the vines were cultivated. This was to be the new -site. But just then war broke out between France and Spain. Geneva was -in a panic, expecting to be attacked, because Philippe II had vowed -that he would exterminate the heretics. Public prayers were offered -and the citizens were encouraged to defend themselves to the last -gasp. Bern, which had been unwilling to renew its alliance with Geneva -at this common danger, hastened to join forces. Geneva was safe. - -In 1558, at Calvin's demand, a commission was empowered to study the -question, and, after due deliberation, it was decided to make the -change. The preliminary work consisted in reducing the height of the -hill. The soil was carted down to the Pré de Rive. But to get the -buildings finished was a heart-breaking undertaking. There were all -kinds of delays. They even had a strike among the workmen: the -carpenters demanded eight sous a day! But the Council refused to grant -the increase, which they considered exorbitant, since victuals were -cheap. There was lack of money. In 1559 the Republic had a revenue all -told of only two hundred thousand florins. They decided that the -product of all fines should be handed over to the College. A woman -convicted of _faux aunage_ (probably in measuring cloth of her -weaving) was obliged to pay twenty-five crowns. The venerable former -syndic Phillipin for having spoken evil of the Seigneurie had to pay -twenty-five crowns. Jean Roche, for having printed at Lyon Calvin's -Institution contrary to the privileges granted to Antoine Calvin, was -fined a hundred crowns. People were urged to remember the institution -in their wills. In 1561 the Council by an act of heroic renunciation -resolved to forego the annual banquet and devote to the fund the -hundred florins it would cost. Just as happens now, materials were not -forthcoming on time. One day tiles were lacking and there was great -danger that the rains would come before the roof was covered. But it -was finished in 1562, and four years later a fountain was installed as -much to embellish the College as to furnish drinking-water. In 1569 -elms and linden-trees were set out to shade the grounds. - -The two big buildings, arranged as it was called _à la mode de -potence_, that is at right angles, and surmounted by a big roof, all -in Italian Renaissance style of architecture, were the pride of the -City, and still not much changed reflect credit on the old Reformers. - -Our friend the professor took us to the front of the main building and -pointed out to us the peristyle colonnade, with its three massive -pillars supporting the four arches in pure Roman style, and he called -our attention to the ancient inscriptions over the principal entrance: -the first in Hebrew, which he said meant "The Fear of the Lord is the -Beginning of Wisdom;" the second in Greek, which I could almost make -out myself though the letters were queer:--"Christ has become for us -Wisdom by the Will of the Father;" the third indecipherable, but he -said that it read originally "For the Wisdom that comes from on high -is pure, peaceable and full of mercy." - -He showed us the external stairway leading to what was formerly the -rooms of the principal and of some of the professors, and the -admirable balustrade of wrought iron, and pointed with pardonable -pride to the bas relief in yellow marble over the first floor door. He -said it was attributed to the famous French sculptor Jean Goujon, who -belonged to the Reformed Church and was in Geneva in 1560. It -represents two winged women, one the Genius of Study, the other the -Genius of War and between them the escutcheon of the City. During the -French occupation it was mutilated, but the eagle and the key can be -made out. - -The professor took us up to the second floor of the main building, -which offers a superb view of the lake, the Jura with their -rock-ribbed summits, the snowy Alps of Savoy. In those days they did -not much believe in light, physically or theologically; the windows -are small and the big rooms seemed rather gloomy. He told us that at -first the City was too poor or too penurious to furnish glass for -them, and when the students petitioned for glass they were recommended -to fit them out themselves with oiled paper panes. Neither was there -any way of heating them, and the professors had to bring braziers -filled with hot coals to melt out their lectures. Finally a violent -_bise_ came down the lake and blew the rooms inside out; it did so -much damage that the Council, in self-defence, ordered glass put in. - -The Seigneurie gratuitously lodged not only the professors and pastors -but also such needy citizens as had been of public service. In 1561 -François Bonivard petitioned to be granted quarters in the city -_logis_ where he might have a stove, and his petition was allowed. -Then, as now (in other lands more particularly), self-defence was an -expensive luxury. The erection, maintenance and strengthening of the -city walls cost enormously, and the Council proposed to sell the -houses of the Regents, but violent opposition arose and they were -maintained until the beginning of the Nineteenth Century. Then the -ramshackly old buildings were sold and the fine houses on the Rue -Verdaine were built. The gardens were alienated in 1725 for -twenty-five thousand florins; the purchaser agreeing not to erect any -high building that would cut off the fine view. They at least -appreciated their greatest asset. The purchaser was Jean Gallatin, -whose house is still shown at Number Seven. - -I was, of course, interested in the name Gallatin, for I remembered -how Albert Gallatin, a graduate of Geneva University, came to America -and taught French at Harvard College, and then entering politics, was -elected Senator, though he was excluded; became Secretary of the -Treasury and signed the Treaty of Ghent and was United States Minister -first at Paris and then at London. Several towns in our country were -named after him. - -When the professors' houses were taken from them, they were granted -three écus d'or extra salary. - -The so-called Ordre du Collège--a term still in use--was worked out by -Calvin himself, who would not have disdained regulating the size of -mouse-traps. Fortunately he had associated with him the gentle, -benevolent Theodore de Bèze, who was the oil to the vinegar of -Calvin's stern, uncompromising wisdom. Calvin wrote it in Latin; De -Bèze in French. It is a document well worthy of study by all -educators. - -It was promulgated on the fifth of June, 1559, with impressive -ceremonies. The venerable Company of Pastors, the Regents, the -professors and a body of six hundred students, together with an -immense throng of citizens, went to the cathedral where Calvin made an -immensely long supplication. Then the secretary of the Council, Michel -Roset, read the document. De Bèze, appointed rector of the Academy and -principal of the College, made an impressive "harangue" in Latin, -dwelling on the usefulness of schools and of "superior wisdom" and -ending by thanking the Council for having permitted Geneva to receive -instruction purged of all Papal superstitions. De Bèze having thanked -the Council, Calvin thanked God for the same blessings. The next day -the regular exercises of the new curriculum began. They were kept up -without essential change for three centuries. The chief function of -the College was practically the same as that of the primitive -Harvard--to provide ministers: my nephew declared it was a "regular -parson-factory." - -During Calvin's life no theatrical representations were allowed; but -just forty years after his death, in 1604, some of the students of one -of the professors with his authorization learned a comedy by Garnier -and proposed to enact it before a select company of guests. When the -authorities heard of it they were in a panic and hastened to forbid it -"for fear the students might take occasion for debauchery and waste -time and lessons." In 1681 "The Cid" was presented with scenery at the -house of M. Perdriau. The performance ended with a farce. About three -hundred spectators were present. Several students took part. It caused -a terrible scandal. It was declared that if such a thing happened -again the culprits should be whipped. They had the means to inflict -this punishment. Discipline in those days was severe. The Regents were -ordered to provide themselves with a sort of cat-o'-nine-tails, and -they used it sometimes brutally. In 1676 a Sieur de Rochemont ordered -his valet to thrash one of the Regents for having too severely -punished his nephew. The valet carried out his orders with good will -but was haled into court and condemned to languish in jail for a week, -while his master, in spite of his rank, was punished even more -severely--he was sent to jail for three weeks and had to pay a fine of -two hundred crowns, after having begged pardon on his knees. - -The University of Geneva, as at present constituted, is the outgrowth -of that remarkable school. Its modern regeneration began in 1886. Many -new buildings have been erected. It would take pages to give the names -of the celebrated professors who have from the beginning helped to -spread its fame and have attracted students from all over the world, -especially from Russia. Out of the twelve hundred or more students -registered a large proportion come from the empire of the Tsars. The -institution is divided into a _Collège inférieur_ and a _Collège -supérieur_, the latter having four departments: the classic, the -réal, the technical and the pedagogical. - -We went with our guide into the Library, which, of course, we could -only glance at; but later, when I spent a fortnight in Geneva, I found -it most useful. We went to the Salle Lutin and looked at the fine -portraits of Geneva celebrities, including those of many distinguished -visitors, notably George Eliot's. Here are also many fascinating -manuscripts and books which would fill the heart of a bibliophile with -hopeless envy. I had just time to look at the curious old map made in -1588 by a Genevan magistrate, the noble Duvillard, who was wounded in -a battle and during his convalescence amused himself in tracing on -paper "ce beau lac génévois," to which he said Christians flock -without cessation:-- - - "Pour louer Dieu, maugré princes et rois, - Plumes, pinceaux, couleurs en tous entroits - J'ai fait passer par villes et châteaux, - Villages, bourgs, par montagnes et bois, - Par champs et près et vignobles si beaux - Rochers, forêts, rivières et ruisseaux." - -But the morning was passing, and we had to tear ourselves away. We had -not intended to go into any of the public buildings of Geneva, -tempting as they might be, but to walk across the Treille, along the -Promenade des Bastions and then take a tram for the Salève, from -which, on such a clear day, the view would have been superb. But it -was too late; we had to hurry back to the hotel for an early lunch and -then continue our journey around the lake. - -As we went back I registered a vow to spend at least a fortnight in -Geneva, and I am happy to say it was not a vow in vain. I came to know -and love the fine old town with its splendid educational advantages, -its museums and libraries, its fascinating parks and its wealth of -glorious walks. More than once as we went down toward the lake I -turned around to look at the bold escarpments of the limestone cliff -against which the twin towers and the tall spire of the Cathedral -stood out so proudly. - -I went one day to the Voirons and had perhaps the same view as James -Fenimore Cooper enjoyed so much, when on his journey southward he -suddenly emerged on their heights and got his first glimpse of Geneva -and the lake and all those parts of Vaud that lie between Geneva and -the Dôle. Of course, Geneva nearly eighty years ago was much smaller -than it is now. He describes it with enthusiasm, and his picture still -glows with colour:-- - -"A more ravishing view than that we now beheld can scarcely be -imagined. Nearly the whole of the lake was visible. The north shore -was studded with towns, towers, castles and villages for the distance -of thirty miles; the rampart--resembling rocks of Savoy--rose for -three or four thousand feet, like walls above the water, and solitary -villages were built against their bases in spots where there scarcely -appeared room to place a human foot. The solemn magnificent gorge -rather than valley of the Rhône and the river, glittering like silver -among its meadows, were in the distant front, while the immediate -foreground was composed of a shore which also had its wall of rocks, -its towns laved by the water, its castles, its hamlets half concealed -in fruit-trees, and its broad mountain bosom thrown carelessly into -terraces, to the elevation of two thousand feet on which reposed -nearly every object of rural art that can adorn a picture.... - -"The beauty of the panorama was singularly heightened by the presence -of some thirty or forty large barks with lateen sails, a rig -particularly Italian, and which, to my eye, was redolent of the -Mediterranean, a sea I had not beheld for twenty years. They were -lying lazily on the glassy lake as if placed there by Claude -himself to serve as models. - -[Illustration: BARKS ON LAKE LEMAN.] - -"I shall not affirm that this was the finest view we had yet seen in -Switzerland, but I do think it was the most exquisite. It was Goethe -compared to Schiller, Milton to Shakespeare, Racine to Corneille." - -Just about two centuries earlier Auguste de Sales in the life of his -uncle Saint Francis, showed that he too loved the same view. Here is -his picture, dated 1632:-- - -"Voiron is a very high mountain separating Le Chablais from Le -Faucigny, looking east from Geneva. Toward the north the view embraces -the great Lake Leman, and almost all the mountains of Burgundy and -those of Switzerland in the distance distinguished by blue shadows. -Nearer are the cities and lands of Geneva and Bern, an infinity of -villages, churches, castles, rivers, ponds, forests, meadows, -vineyards, hills, roads, and the like in such variety that the eye -receives from it a wonderful recreation and nothing in the world can -be seen more beautiful. Toward the south one sees with a sudden horror -the mountains of Le Faucigny and at their extremity the haughty -summits (_cimes sourcilleuses_) of Champmuni, covered with eternal ice -and snow, so that the eye of him who looks now one way now another, -receives an unequalled satisfaction." - -I shall never forget the first expedition that I made to Les Treize -Arbres and the Crêt de Grange Tournier, the highest point of the -Salève, with their superb view up the lake and far into the valley of -the Rhône. Yet the Salève is not a part of Geneva; it is not even -Swiss; it belongs to France. If Switzerland and Savoy should at the -present time have a war it would be easy enough for big guns to be -mounted on those heights and batter down the helpless city; compared -with what war is now the most dramatic event in Genevan history seems -rather ludicrous; but the Fountain of the Escalade commemorates an -heroic achievement. - -Quietly around the city were gathering the hostile armies. Duke -Charles Emmanuel of Savoy was planning to strike a final blow; he had -more than six thousand men--Savoyards, Spaniards, Neapolitans and -Piedmontese--collected in various places within convenient distance. -On the night of December 12, 1602, a storming party of two hundred men -marched up to the Corraterie rampart carrying fagots, hurdles, -ladders, and implements for breaking and smashing things. Each man -also had an amulet warranted to keep him from trouble in this world or -the world to come; it was given to each one by a Scotch Jesuit named -Father Alexander. They filled the moat with their hurdles and fagots; -they fastened their ladders to the walls. They killed the one sentinel -on guard, for the Genevans had no thought of such a treacherous attack -upon them, and they annihilated a small body of the watch, all except -one man, a drummer, who escaped and gave the alarm. The battle was on. - -The Genevans at La Porte Neuve happened to fire off a gun loaded with -chains and iron scrap; the discharge smashed all the scaling ladders -and swept them off the walls; the army of four thousand men led by -General d'Albigni, who was expecting to follow up the success of the -two hundred, was helpless in the moat outside. All able-bodied -citizens got out their guns and swords and gave battle. Hot soup and -other scalding fluids and a rain of deadly missiles were flung down on -the unhappy invaders, who finally fled, leaving thirteen prisoners and -a large number of dead. The Genevans themselves had seventeen killed -and a score wounded. Duke Charles Emmanuel is said to have called his -defeated general a booby (_misérable butor_) and expressed himself in -somewhat the same kind of vulgar language as Victor Hugo attributed to -Marshal Ney in "Les Misérables." - -Geneva was saved, and the next morning the venerable Pastor de Bèze, -who had slept all through the tumult, having learned of the battle, -went to the cathedral and helped to conduct a thanksgiving -service--the last public appearance which his failing health permitted -him to make. And ever since the Genevans celebrate the day of the -Escalade. - -Rousseau wrote of this rather grandiloquently:--"The generous nation -received its baptism of blood; this night put our ancestors beside the -men of Sempach and Morgarten; they defended their freedom like men who -could not understand how life could be separated from liberty." - -That very year the Landgrave of Hesse was visiting Geneva incognito -and he composed a Latin epigram beginning:-- - - "Quisquis amat vitam sobriam castamque tueri," - -which has been Englished in the quaint old style of long ago:-- - - "A strict and sober life if you'd embrace - Let chast Geneva be your dwelling-place; - Or would you lead a lawless life and free - The same Geneva your abode must be. - Convenience here for either life is found-- - The Air, Land, Water and Religion sound!" - -[Illustration: ALONG THE SHORE OF LAKE LEMAN.] - -One more attempt was made to capture Geneva. On September 21, 1792, -without any declaration of war, the French entered Savoy, seized -Mont-Mélian and Chambéry and overran the whole duchy with the result -that it was incorporated with France as the Département du Mont Blanc. -Etienne Clavière, banished from Geneva in 1784 because of his -writings, had become one of the six Ministers of the French Republic, -and being full of animosity against Geneva urged his colleagues to -attack that city. Orders to that effect were issued by Servan, -Minister of War. Geneva appealed to Zürich and Bern for aid and -prepared for defence. But no attack was made. Clavière committed -suicide the following year. - -Gibbon wrote to Lord Sheffield:--"The terrors which might have driven -me from hence have in great measure subsided. Our State prisoners are -forgot; the country begins to recover its old good humor and -unsuspecting confidence and the last revolution of Paris appears to -have convinced almost everybody of the fatal consequences of the -Democratical principles, which lead by a path of flowers into the -abyss of Hell." After Savoy became a part of France Gibbon wrote:--"My -noble scenery is clouded by the Democratical aspect of twelve leagues -of the opposite coast which every morning obtrude themselves on my -view." In February, 1793, he wrote again:--"The new Constitution of -Geneva is slowly forming without much noise or any bloodshed and the -Patriots who have staid in hopes of guiding and restraining the -multitude flatter themselves that they shall be able at least to -prevent their mad countrymen from giving themselves to France, the -only mischief that would be absolutely irretrievable." - -He predicted that the Emperor and the French would compound for the -neutrality of the Swiss. His prediction was very nearly fulfilled. But -the penchant of the Genevans for France may possibly be explained by -the fact that it is so Parisian in its modern brightness and gayety. -That is why I like it. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -FAMOUS FOLK - - -Immediately after luncheon we reembarked in the swift _Hirondelle_, -which was impatiently waiting for us, and started Lausanneward. As in -our trip down, we hugged the shore. High up on the hillside we saw the -Musée Ariana in its beautiful park. Later we visited it and saw its -pictures, its antiquities,--especially interesting the old Genevan -pewter-ware, furniture, weapons and stained glass and its still more -ancient relics of the Alemanni; nor did we forget the Alpine Garden -and other curiosities of the Botanical Park. This is situated directly -on the Lausanne highway. - -High up also, and affording a magnificent view, stands the Château -Rothschild dominating Pregny. Then we rushed by Genthod, the home of -Switzerland's most famous scientists. There was a regular nest of them -there. Birds of a feather! not the least of them being the zoölogist -François Jules Pictet de la Rive. I wondered what Raoul Pictet, who -did good work in liquefying gases, would think of the latest -developments in the use of liquid air. A professor whom I met in -Lausanne informed me that it now cost only a half-cent a pound. As it -is composed of two liquids, nitrogen and oxygen, which boil at -different temperatures, it is easy to eliminate the nitrogen and leave -pure oxygen, which, of course, is invaluable in foundries to stimulate -a high temperature. - -The possibility that the enormous drafts on the nitrogen of the -atmosphere for manufacturing nitrates, and which have made some people -conjecture that we might ultimately become so excitable through the -preponderance of oxygen, need no longer bother us. The nitrogen will -go into nitrates all right but the balance will be kept even by the -withdrawal of oxygen for blast-furnaces, and all we need fear is that -there won't be any air left. But let us not worry; _après nous le -vide_! The Swiss torrents offer many chances for the electrical -manufacture of these liquid gases at small expense. - -At Genthod also lived the De Saussures. Will suggested that from their -exploits in climbing mountains they should have been named the -Snowshoers, a slight change not comparable with that exemplified in -his earliest known ancestor, Mongin Schouel de Saulxures, Grand -Falconer to the Duke of Lorraine! - -"The illustrious" Horace-Bénédict de Saussure's father was an -authority on farming in its scientific aspects as they were then -understood; his mother was the sister-in-law of the naturalist Charles -de Bonnet, who, until his eyesight failed him and he had to take to -philosophical speculations and to controversy with Voltaire, was -interested in studying parthenogenesis, the respiration of insects and -leaves, and kindred abstruse subjects. After a truly Rousseauesque -education, whereby he was trained to bear hardships and fatigue and -all unavoidable inconveniences without complaining, Horace de Saussure -became professor of philosophy at Geneva at the age of twenty-two. Two -years earlier he had offered a prize to the first person who should -find a practicable route to the top of Mont Blanc, though it was then, -and for years afterwards, believed to be inaccessible. He had been to -the peak of Le Brévent on the other side of the Valley of Chamonix--in -itself no small climb for those days at least--and he looked across -that tremendous chasm and up to the forbidding white dome of the -monarch of mountains, towering almost twice as high, and that intense -ambition to get to the top of the world came over him. He believed it -could be accomplished. - -For fifteen years no serious attempt was made to win the prize. Then -four peasants thought they might do it in a day, but dared not spend -the night on the ice and so they came down. In 1783 three chamois -hunters spent the night at the Montagne de la Côte, and the following -morning started up over the icy slope, but one of them grew sleepy, -and as it was regarded as dangerous to sleep on ice and they were -afraid of sunstroke they also relinquished the task. One of them told -De Saussure that if he tried it again all he would take with him would -be a parasol and a bottle of smelling salts! In 1787 De Saussure -caused a hut to be built near the Glacier of Bionnassay and tried to -win the prize for himself. But it was too late in the season and he -had to give it up. - -The next attempt was made in August, 1788, by Marc-Théodore Bourrit, -called "the Historian of the Alps." He was a miniature painter. He was -also precentor of the Cathedral at Geneva. There was a tradition that -it was possible to cross the Alps from Geneva to Turin in thirty-eight -hours. Bourrit provided himself with a fourteen-foot ladder, a couple -of hatchets, ropes and staves, and started with a small party. They -had a terrible time among the crevasses but reached Courmayeur at ten -p. m. He was the first to discover the Col du Géant. He believed Mont -Blanc to be inaccessible. He tried it, however, a second time with his -son, an Englishman named Woodley and a Dutchman named Kampfer. They -had twenty-two guides, nineteen of whom were overcome. He claimed that -he got beyond the Camel's Humps within ten minutes of the top but was -prevented by a hurricane from actually reaching it. He gave himself -away by declaring that he could see the Mediterranean. He would have -had to see it not only through a snow-storm but also through the top. -It is now believed that he did not get above the Rochers Rouges. M. -Auldjo traced the limitation of vision by a map and showed it was -impossible to see the Mediterranean. - -The next year partisans of two different routes tried in rivalry to go -up from opposite sides. Each party was made up of three men; a fourth, -named Jacques Balmat, attached himself to one of them, and, when they -deserted him, he continued alone, and by digging steps in the ice -along the crest of the Rochers Rouges got within less than three -hundred meters of the summit. He realized that if he went alone no -one would believe him; when he managed to retrace his steps and -reached the Grand Plateau he was overcome by snow-blindness. He kept -his eyes shut for half an hour and his sight returned, but it was -growing dark. He was obliged to spend the night where he was. He -burrowed into the snow and kept alive. - -When he reached Chamonix the next day he was so worn out that he slept -twenty-four hours at a stretch. Then he went to the doctor of -Chamonix, Michel Paccard, and told him his secret. They determined to -try it. They started August 8, 1786, not together but one taking the -right bank, the other the left bank of the Arve, so as not to awaken -suspicion of their purpose. They camped on the Montagne de la Côte, -and the next day attained Les Petits Mulets, about a hundred meters -below the tip-top. Here they were nearly blown off the crest by a -fierce gust of icy wind. The doctor refused to take another step. -People were watching them from the village with a telescope. Balmat -went alone to the top, and wigwagged a greeting to the villagers, who -answered it. Then he went down and got the doctor by main force to the -top. Balmat had practically to drag him down to the valley; the poor -man was completely blinded and half frozen to death. - -The next year De Saussure, with Balmat as guide, and a large party, -bearing scientific apparatus, successfully reached the summit--the -professor dressed in a long-tailed silk coat with huge buttons, which -is preserved as a mute witness of the achievement in the De Saussure -house at Genthod. Balmat lived to be an old man and was proud of the -patent of nobility which the King of Sardinia conferred on him in -honour of his feat. - -Later, Dr. Paccard forgot what Balmat had done for him and how -generously he had shared with him the honour of first conquering the -proud monarch, and he began to claim all the credit of the enterprise. -He issued a prospectus of a book, which should bring him a reward for -his exertions. He promised to give a short history of previous -attempts, an account of his own success, and a description of the -stones and rocks, the insects, the rare plants, as well as his -physical and medical observations, and all necessary notions for those -who might wish to visit the glaciers. The subscription price was to be -six livres de France for copies on fine paper and four livres, ten -sols for copies on ordinary paper. He very cordially invited persons -of a higher class who might desire to join in giving the author a -prize for this conquest, and they also were promised a share in some -of the curiosities found on Mont Blanc. He succeeded by this means in -securing a number of subscribers. - -De Saussure did not climb the Alpine mountains for sentimental -reasons; his purpose was purely scientific, but occasionally in his -writings there are passages of charming freshness and humanity. Once -he camped out on the bleak Col du Géant for more than two weeks. He -thus describes the last evening:-- - -"The sixteenth and last evening which we spent on the Col du Géant was -ravishingly beautiful. It seemed as if all those lofty summits desired -that we should not depart from them without regret. The icy wind which -had made the most of the nights so uncomfortable did not blow. The -peaks which looked down upon us and the snows lying between them took -on the most beautiful tints of rose and of carmine. The whole Italian -horizon seemed to wear a zone and the full moon came rising above this -zone with queenly majesty and glowing with the most exquisite -vermilion. The atmosphere about us had that purity and that -crystalline limpidity which Homer attributes to that of Olympus, while -the valleys, filled with mists condensing there, seemed the -dwelling-place of gloomy shadows. - -"But how shall I depict the night that followed this lovely evening, -when after the twilight the moon, shining alone in the sky, poured -forth the waves of her silvery light over the vast pile of snow and -rock surrounding our cabin? What an astonishing and delicious -spectacle under the gentle radiance of the luminary of night was made -by those very slopes of snow and ice the sight of which is unendurable -in the sunlight. What a magnificent contrast those granite crags, -darkened and hewed out with so much precision and boldness, made -against these glittering snows! What a moment for meditation! How many -trials and privations find compensation in such moments! The soul is -elevated, the mind seems to cover a wider outlook, and in the midst of -this majestic silence you may believe you hear the voice of Nature and -become the secret witness of her most hidden works." - -De Saussure's "Voyages dans les Alpes" are still well worth reading. -He was acquainted with most of the great men of his day; Goethe sought -him out to ask his advice; the Duc de La Rochefoucauld, explorer of -glaciers, Buffon, David Garrick, Sir William Hamilton and dozens of -others were proud of his friendship. In a way, he was the father of -modern mountain-climbing. He crossed the Alps by eight different -passes and penetrated to parts of the mountains never deemed -accessible before his day. - -Women began quite early to have aspirations to get to the top of the -mountain. In August, 1823, a Mrs. Campbell of London, with her -daughter, got to the Col du Géant and tried to reach the summit but -failed. In September, 1838, Mlle. Henriette d'Angeville, no longer -young, succeeded. It was then regarded as an extraordinary feat. She -says she "looked out toward those superb mountains which lifted above -the plains and mediocrities of the earth their brows adorned with an -eternal splendor;" she was "attracted by their solitude where she -might breathe the free pure air of the mighty Alpestrian Nature;" she -was bound to climb "on the white carpet of the spotless snows to those -glittering peaks which are like luminous altars, the sojourn of joy, -of sweetness, of infinite serenity." Her relatives and friends tried -to restrain her but she cried: "If I suffocate, take my body to the -top and leave it there." She started with seven guides and two -porters, and succeeded. - -Afterwards she confessed:--"If we had started from the Grands Mulets -at four o'clock instead of at two, the ascension would have been a -failure and we should have got caught in the tempest; if we had gone -back without reaching the summit, they would have made sport of us; if -one of my guides had perished I should have been stoned and if I had -perished it would have been said: 'Too bad, but what business had she -to get into such a scrape?'" - -She has been called "the Bride of Mont Blanc" and it is said of her -that "her name shines with fiery brilliancy in the firmament of -Alpinism." - -Undoubtedly, if she were living now, she would be the first woman to -cross the Alps in an aeroplane, for in 1838 she proposed to go to -London to make an ascension in Charles Green's balloon. - -In the Bibliothèque Nationale at Paris are three volumes containing -fourteen narratives by those travellers who successfully reached the -summit between 1786 and 1838, including an account of the supposed -discovery of the valley of Chamonix and a history of the Priory, -accompanied by a series of pictures, portraits and original letters, -collected by Markham Sherwill, who was the first to put an end to the -legend of the discovery of the valley by Windham and Pococke. - - * * * * * - -The sight of Coppet of course instantly brought to mind Gibbon's early -love and her later residence with her unhappy husband ("the past, the -present and the future all odious to him") and their strong-minded -daughter, Madame de Staël. In one of Gibbon's letters he tells of the -report that the Necker had purchased the barony of "Copet" and had -found the buildings in great disrepair. He added:--"They have now a -very troublesome charge ... the disposal of a Baroness. Mademoiselle -Necker, one of the greatest heiresses in Europe, is now about -eighteen, wild, vain but good-natured and with a much larger provision -of wit than beauty; what encreases their difficulties is their -religious obstinacy of marrying her only to a Protestant." - -She had chance to display her wit, for their house, whether at Paris -or in Switzerland, was always frequented by distinguished public men -and writers. In one of her youthful essays speaking of "La Nouvelle -Héloïse" she criticizes Julie for continually lecturing Saint-Preux: -"A guilty woman may love virtue," she says, "but she should not prate -about it." - -She might have been the wife of William Pitt; the Comte de Guibert (to -whom Mademoiselle de l'Espinasse wrote such glowing love-letters and -whose marriage to another lady broke her heart) was also regarded as a -possibility. But finally the choice fell on the Swedish Baron de -Staël-Holstein, who was, in consequence of her dowry, raised to the -rank of ambassador, but was more heavily laden with debts than with -intellect. - -At Coppet, while in exile from her beloved Paris, she wrote her -romance "Corinne," and at Coppet she managed to gather about her that -circle of wits and admirers which was so essential to her happiness. -The German poet and romanticist, August Wilhelm von Schlegel, lived at -Madame de Staël's château for about fourteen years. Byron visited her -there; so did George Ticknor of Boston. But Switzerland exercised no -spell on Madame de Staël and interesting as her love-affairs are, -especially her long liaison with Benjamin Constant de Rebecque, whose -cant name was "La Fausseté," just as Madame de Montolieu's was "Le -Tourbillon" and Gibbon's was "Neptune" or her secret marriage with -the handsome youth Albert de Rocca, she was only, as it were, a -prisoner in sight of the Alps and yearning for her beloved Paris. - -Sainte-Beuve, who was for a time a professor at Lausanne, gives a -brilliant account of the society which gathered in her salon. He -says:-- - -"What the sojourn at Ferney was for Voltaire, the life at Coppet was -for Madame de Staël, but with a more romantic halo round her, it seems -to us, more of the grandeur and pomp of life. Both reigned in their -exile; Voltaire, in his low flat plain, his secluded, poverty-stricken -castle, with a view of despoiled, unshaded gardens, scorned and -derided. The influence of Coppet is quite different; it is that of -Jean-Jacques continued, ennobled, installed, and reigning amid the -same associations as his rival. Coppet counterbalances Ferney, half -dethrones it. - -"We also, of this younger generation, judge Ferney by comparing it -with Coppet, coming down from Coppet. The beauty of its site, the -woods which shadow it, the sex of its poet, the air of enthusiasm we -breathe there, the elegant company, the glorious names, the walks by -the lake, the mornings in the park, the mysteries and the inevitable -storms which we surmise, all contribute to idealize the place for us. -Coppet is the Elysium which every disciple of Jean-Jacques would -gladly give to the mistress of his dreams.... - -"The literary and philosophical conversations, always high-toned, -clever and witty, began as early as eleven in the morning, when all -met at breakfast; and were carried on again at dinner, and in the -interval between dinner and supper, which was at eleven at night, and -often as late as midnight. Benjamin Constant and Madame de Staël -engrossed the conversation.... Their intellects were in accord; they -always understood each other. - -"But we must not suppose that everyone there was always either -sentimental or solemn; very often they were simply gay; Corinne had -days of _abandon_, when she resembled the signora _Fantastici_. Plays -were often acted at Coppet, dramas and tragedies, or the chivalric -pieces of Voltaire, 'Zaïre' and 'Tancrède,' favourites of Madame de -Staël's; or plays composed expressly by her or her friends. These -latter were sometimes printed at Paris, so that the parts might more -easily be learned; the interest taken in such messages was very keen; -and when in the interval some important correction was thought of, a -courier was hurried off, and sometimes a second to catch him up, and -modify the correction already _en route_. The poetry of Europe was -represented at Coppet by many celebrated men. Zacharias Werner, one of -the originators of that court, whose 'Attila' and other dramas were -played with a considerable addition of German ladies, wrote about this -time (1809) to Counsellor Schneffer:-- - -"'Madame de Staël is a queen, and all the intelligent men who live in -her circle are unable to leave it, for she holds them by a magic -spell. They are not all, as is foolishly believed in Germany, occupied -in forming her literary character; on the contrary, they receive a -social education at her hands. She possesses to admiration the secret -of uniting the most unlikely elements, and all who come near her, -however different their opinions may be, agree in adoring this idol. -Madame de Staël is of middling height, and, without possessing the -elegance of a nymph, is of noble proportions.... She is healthy, a -brunette, and her face is not exactly beautiful; but this is not -observed, for at sight of her eyes all else is forgotten; they are -superb; a great soul not only shines in them, but shoots forth flame -and fire. And when, as so often happens, she speaks straight from her -heart, we see how this noble heart is hedged round by all that is -great and profound in her mind, and then one must adore her, as do my -friends A. W. Schlegel and Benjamin Constant.' - -"It is not difficult to imagine to oneself the sprightly author of -this picture. Werner, in his uncouth dress, purposely besmeared with -snuff, furnished as he was with an enormous snuff-box, which he used -plentifully during his long, erotic, and platonic digressions on -_androgyne_; his fate was, he said, to be dragged hither and thither -in fruitless search for that other half of himself, and from one -attempt to another, from divorce after divorce, he never despaired of, -in the end, reconstituting his original self. - -"As for portraits of Madame de Staël, we see how all who try to limn -her agree in the chief points, from M. de Guibert to OEhlenschlæger -and Werner. Two faithful and trustworthy portraits from the brush -allow us to dispense with literary word-painting,--the portrait -painted by Madame Lebrun in 1807, which presents Madame de Staël to us -as Corinne, bare-headed, her hair in curls, a lyre in her hand; and -the picture by Gérard, painted after her death, but from perfect, -unerring remembrance. However, in collecting together several sketches -from various contemporaneous pens, we think we have not done a useless -thing; one is never weary of harmonizing many reminiscences of those -beloved and admired ones who are no more. - -"English poetry, which, during the Continental wars, was unrepresented -at this long congress of thought of which Coppet was the -abiding-place, appeared there in 1816, in the persons of Lewis and -Byron. The latter has spoken of Madame de Staël in his Memoirs in an -affectionate and admiring manner, despite a certain levity the -_oracle_ indulges in. _Blasé_ as he is, he admits that she has made -Coppet the most pleasant place in the world, through the society she -chooses to receive there, and which her own talent animates. On her -side, she pronounced him to be the most seductive man in England, -always adding: 'I credit him with just sufficient tenderness to -destroy the happiness of a woman.'" - - * * * * * - -Higher and higher grow the shores of the lake. We left Coppet and its -memories of that brilliant and unhappy genius behind and were soon -skirting Nyon, which the Romans knew as Noviodunum. Now that name is -most interesting. It contains in it the noun _dun_ which as a Saxon -word means a hill and is seen in its simplest form in the expression, -sand-dunes; it also appears as "downs;" but it is also a Keltic word -and means a fortified hill; both Saxon and Keltic words are -etymologically the same as _ton_ or town. Cæsar made it a garrison -forty-five years before Christ and called it Colonia Equestris. - -There is often a wonderful germ of history hidden away in proper -names. Who would ever dream that the little town of Gstaad which, of -course, is the same as Gestade, meaning shore or bank, represents its -ancient Latin name of Ripa Barbarorum? In the same way the Roman Mons -Saccarum was pronounced by the Germans Masox or Meysachs, the Rhetii -called it Misanc and from that came the name of the Barons of Misaucus -who inhabited a magnificent castle built before the middle of the -Tenth Century. The Germans call the Italian the Wälsche, which is the -same as calling them Welch, meaning strangers; that name is seen in -the town of Wahlenstadt and in the people Walloons. Vaud itself means -Valli, which is Walli, the same as Welch. So Montigl is _monticulus_, -a little mountain; Rinegg is _Rheni angulum_, a bend of the Rhine; -Gräppelen comes from _c zappa longa_, meaning long rocks. - -There is a pretty little French characterization of Nyon in four -lines. It reads:-- - - "A Nyon, la riante ville - Qui se dresse sur son coteau, - Avec ses murs, son vieux château, - Le lac est bleu d'un bleu tranquille." - -We passed under it, but could see its stately castle crowned with a -multitude of spiry towers. From its terrace there is a splendid view -across to the pearly pyramid of Mont Blanc. The castle has walls ten -feet thick, but is now used as a museum. Next we catch a glimpse of -the Château de Prangins, where Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon's oldest -brother, lived, caring more for a scholarly and agricultural life than -to be king of turbulent Spaniards. The two torrents rushing down from -the Jura, the Promenthoux and the Aubonne, have thrust their cones out -into the lake and given room for pretty villages. - -Byron, returning from a walking expedition, stopped at Aubonne -"which," he says, "commands by far the fairest view of the Lake of -Geneva; twilight; the Moon on the Lake; a grove on the height, and of -very noble trees. Here Tavernier (the Eastern traveler) bought (or -built) the Château, because the site resembled and equalled that of -Erivan (a frontier city of Persia); and here he finished his voyages." - -There is a lovely bay between the two "cones" and the shore bears the -distinctive name of La Côte; it is famous for its delicious grapes and -excellent white wine. The now distant shore of Savoy swims in a -delicate haze; over the water, just ruffled by a gentle breeze, curl -those curious smooth-looking streaks which are called "fontaines" and -are supposed to be caused by minute particles of oil, though some -attribute them to subterranean springs. - -It was growing late in the afternoon and the shores of the lake are -not so interesting, that is not so bold, after passing Rolle and its -precious island, and we cut across from Saint-Prex to Saint Sulpice, -leaving Morges for another time, though its old castle looked enticing -from the distance. - -It was pleasant to get home again. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -THE ASCENT OF THE DÔLE - - -I can see the importance of a knowledge of geology as a basis for the -study of history. How do valleys run--north and south or east and -west? This inclination conditions sunlight. Where the rocks are hard -and impervious there are many small streams; but in a fissured -district of chalky rock as in the Jura there are few torrents. There -is almost no water in the regions of the upper Jurassic rocks and no -temptations for settlers. But the lower and middle Jura, rich in marl, -offers excellent pasturage. The grass grows sparse but sweet where the -cretaceous rocks have crumbled. Where the sun shines bright and warm -and there is shelter from cold winds the vine is cultivated. - -Poor ignorant man, wandering up into valleys where the limestone of -the hard water will give all his descendants the goître, or building -his habitation under a precipice where the whole side of the mountain -will slide down on him and overwhelm him, as happened at Val Bregaglia -in 1618 when Monte Conto wiped out most of the 2,000 inhabitants of -Piuro! How can a country like Switzerland, made up of so many scores -of valleys each different in characteristic and each conditioning the -inhabitants,--here making them taciturn, there gay and thoughtless, -here again honest and religious, there sly and untrustworthy,--how can -it have any real political unity? - - * * * * * - -The next morning, after breakfast, I went into the library and picked -up a copy of Addison's "Travels through Switzerland." One sentence -begins:--"I made a little voyage round the lake and touched on the -several towns that lie on its coasts, which took up near five days, -though the wind was pretty fair for us all the while." He was -referring to the Lake of Geneva. As usual with me, I copied a few -paragraphs into my diary. I like to do that with letters or books. -Often one can find just the description one wants and save making an -original one. I was amused at one thing in Addison. He introduces -classical poems whenever he can with his own translations and -sometimes he forgets to put them à propos, so he adds them at the end -of his chapter. - -"Near St. Julian in Savoy the Alps begin to enlarge themselves on all -sides and open into a vast circuit of ground, which, in respect of the -other parts of the Alps, may pass for a plain champagne country. This -extent of lands, with the Leman Lake, would make one of the prettiest -and most defensible dominions in Europe, was it all thrown into a -single state and had Geneva for its metropolis. But there are three -powerful neighbors who divide among them the greatest part of this -fruitful country. The Duke of Savoy has the Chablais and all the -fields that lie beyond the Arve as far as to the Ecluse. The King of -France is master of the whole country of Gex; and the Canton of Bern -comes in for that of Vaud. - -"Geneva and its little territories lie in the heart of these three -states. The greatest part of the town stands upon a hill and has its -view bounded on all sides by several ranges of mountains, which are, -however, at so great a distance that they leave open a wonderful -variety of beautiful prospects. The situation of these mountains has -some particular effects on the country which they inclose. At first -they cover it from all winds except the south and north. It is to the -last of these winds that the inhabitants of Geneva ascribe the -healthfulness of their air; for as the Alps surround them on all sides -they form a vast kind of bason, where there would be a constant -stagnation of vapors, the country being so well watered, did not the -north wind put them in motion and scatter them from time to time. - -"Another effect the Alps have on Geneva is that the sun here rises -later and sets sooner than it does to other places of the same -latitude. I have often observed that the tops of the neighboring -mountains have been covered with light above half an hour after the -sun is down in respect of those who live at Geneva. - -"These mountains likewise very much increase their summer heats and -make up an horizon that has something in it very singular and -agreeable. On one side you have the long tract of hills that goes -under the name of Mount Jura, covered with vineyards and pasturage, -and on the other huge precipices of naked rocks rising up in a -thousand odd figures and cleft in some places so as to discover high -mountains of snow that lie several leagues behind them. Toward the -south the hills rise more insensibly and leave the eye a vast -uninterrupted prospect of many miles. But the most beautiful view of -all is the lake and the borders of it that lie north of the town. - -"This lake resembles a sea in the color of its waters, the storms that -are raised on it and the ravages it makes on its banks. It receives -too a different name from the coast it washes and in summer has -something like an ebb and flow which arises from the melting of the -snows that fall into it more copiously at noon than at other times of -the day. It has four different states bordering on it: the Kingdom of -France, the Duchy of Savoy, the Canton of Bern and the Republic of -Geneva." - -Addison spent a day at Lausanne, which he calls the greatest town on -the lake after Geneva, and he saw "the wall of the cathedral church -that was opened by an earthquake and shut again some years after by a -second." But Addison adds:--"The crack can but be just discerned at -present though there are several in the town still living who have -formerly passed through it." - -Addison's compliment to the Almighty in letting the Rhône run as it -does is quite amusing. He says: "As I have seen the great part of the -course of this river I cannot but think it has been guided by the -particular hand of Providence.... Had such a river as this been left -to itself to have found its way out from among the Alps, whatever -windings it had made it must have formed several little seas and have -laid many countries under water before it had come to the end of its -course." - -Addison went to Nyon, where he says he observed in the walls of -several houses the fragments of the vast Corinthian pillars with -several other pieces of architecture which must have formerly belonged -to some very noble pile of building. - -Will and I went to Nyon a few days after our return from Geneva and we -went into the château, where there is now an interesting museum of -antiquities. The walls of the building are at least three meters in -thickness. - -From Nyon we drove in the car through Trélex, Saint-Cergue, as far as -the Château de Vuarnen; from there we walked to the summit of La Dôle. -We chose our day and our time and had as perfect a view as one could -desire. It stands about twelve hundred and forty meters above the sea -but it might be rather lonely for a continued residence; for that I -should perhaps choose the Château de Monnetier, within jumping -distance of Geneva. - -Here is Goethe's account of his ascent of La Dôle. It was a more -unusual exploit in his day, and it is interesting as showing what an -effect the spell of the Alps had on the great German poet. I -translated it for my diary, but, of course, I left out a few -unessential passages:-- - -"The weather was very clear; when we looked around we had a view of -the Lake of Geneva, the mountains of Savoy and of Valais; we could -make out Lausanne and, through a faint mist, also the region of -Geneva. Mont Blanc, which towers above all the mountains of the -Faucigni, grew ever more and more distinct. The sun was sinking -undimmed; it was such a great prospect that a human eye cannot grasp -it. The moon, almost full, arose and we also kept mounting. Through -forest of fir-trees we climbed up toward the Jura and saw the lake in -the vaporous atmosphere and the moon reflected in it. It grew brighter -and brighter. The road is a well-constructed _chaussée_ only built to -facilitate the transportation of wood from the mountains down into the -country. - -"We had been climbing a good three hours when it gradually began to -descend again. We thought that we were looking down on a large lake -below us, because a thick mist filled the whole valley over which we -could look. At last we came quite near it and saw the white bow -which the moon made in it and then we were wholly enveloped in it." - -[Illustration: THE SAVOY ALPS FROM THE NORTH SHORE OF LAKE LEMAN.] - -They spent the night in a comfortable house and the next day continued -their journey into the Jura, which he explains is a word from a local -term, _joux_, meaning a crag or mountain. The next day they proceeded -on their way. It was the twenty-fourth of October, 1779. - -"It was a clear, cool morning; there was hoar frost on the meadows; -here and there light mist-wreaths were drifting over; we could see -fairly well over the lower part of the valley; our house lay at the -foot of the Western Noir Mont. About eight o'clock we set forth on -horseback, and in order to enjoy the sun at once we rode toward the -west. The part of the valley where we were proceeding consists of -fenced meadows which toward the lake become rather swampy. The Orbe -flows through the center of it. The inhabitants have established -themselves in single houses partly on its banks, partly in clustering -villages which bear simple names suggested by their situation. The -first one which we passed through was Le Sentier. From afar we saw La -Dent de Baulion smiling across a fog bank which hung over the lake. -The valley widened; we came behind a crag which hid the lake from us -and entered another village called Le Lieu; the fog was rising and -then settling down again before the sun. - -"Near here is a little lake which seems to have neither inflow nor -outflow. The weather became perfectly clear and as we reached the foot -of the Dent de Baulion we found here the northerly end of a large lake -which, as it turns toward the west, has its outlet into the little one -through a dam over which is built a bridge. The village above it is -called Le Pont. The lay of the little lake is, as it were, in its own -little valley, which one might call a very neat arrangement. At the -western end is a noteworthy mill constructed in a cleft of the rock -which once the little lake filled. Now it is dammed away and the mill -is built over the chasm. The water runs through sluices to the -millwheels and from there dashes down into the clefts of the rocks, -where it is swallowed up, and a mile away joins the Valorbe, where it -once more takes the name of the upper stream. - -"These sluices (_entonniers_) have to be kept clear, else the water -would rise and fill up the cleft again and drown the mill, as has -happened more than once. Men were busy at work, some removing the -decomposed limestone, some strengthening the structure. - -"We rode back over the bridge to Le Pont and took a guide to La Dent. -As we mounted we had a fine view of the large lake below us in its -whole extent. To the eastward Le Noir Mont forms its boundary; behind -that the bald head of the Dôle comes into sight; to the westward the -precipitous crags, quite naked toward the lake, confine it. - -"The sun grew hot; it was between eleven and noon. Gradually we began -to get a prospect over the whole valley and could recognize in the -distance Le Lac des Rousses, and coming up to our feet the region -through which we had been riding and the road which still remained for -us to accomplish. As we mounted higher we talked about the vast extent -of land and of the rulers which could be distinguished from that -height and with such thoughts we attained the summit; but another -drama was there prepared for us. Only the lofty mountain chains were -visible under a clear and cheerful sky; all the regions below were -bedecked with a white woolly sea of fog which stretched from Geneva -northward to the very horizon and gleamed in the sun. Out of this to -the east arose the whole unbroken range of snow and ice-covered -mountains, without respect to the names of the nations and princes who -lay claim to the possession of them, subjected only to one great -Overlord and to the glance of the sun, which painted them a lovely -rosy hue. - -"Mont Blanc over opposite to us was evidently the highest; the -ice-mountains of Valais and of the Oberland came next and finally -closed in the lower mountain of the Canton of Bern. Toward the west in -one place the sea of fog was unbounded; to the left in the farthest -distance the mountains of Solothurn showed themselves; nearer still -those of Neuchâtel; directly before us a few of the lower peaks of the -Jura; below us lay some of the houses of Baulion whereto La Dent -belongs and whence it gets the name. Toward the west the whole horizon -is shut off by the Franche-Comté with a stretch of low wooded -mountains, one of which stood out quite alone by itself toward the -northwest. In front was a lovely view. - -"Here is the sharp point which gives this peak the name of a tooth. It -slopes down steeply and, if anything, bends inward a little; in the -depths a little fir-wood valley with fine grassy meadows is shut in; -directly beyond lies the valley called Valorbe, where one can see the -Orbe springing from the rocks and follow in imagination its downward -course under the ground to the little lake. - -"The village of Valorbe also lies in this valley. - -"Reluctantly we turned to descend. If we could have waited a few hours -longer, until the fog in accordance with its custom should have -entirely dissipated, we should have been able to distinguish the -country still farther down the lake; but in order that enjoyment may -be perfect there must still be something left to be desired. Looking -down we had the whole valley in all distinctness before us; at Pont we -mounted our horses, rode along the easterly side of the lake, came -through l'Abbaye de Joux, which is now a village, but was formerly the -seat of the monks to whom the whole valley belonged. About four -o'clock we reached our quarters and found a meal which our hostess -assured us had been good at midday but which we found tasted -remarkably good." - -For their return they decided to make the ascent of the second highest -peak of the Jura, the Dôle, though it was then supposed to be the -highest. - -"We packed a luncheon of cheese, butter, bread and wine and started -away about eight o'clock. Our route took us now through the upper part -of the valley under the shadow of Le Noir Mont. It was very cold; -there had been a hoar frost and it had frozen; we had still an hour -to ride in the Bernese territory where the _chaussée_, which has just -been completed, comes to an end. We entered French territory, passing -through a small fir forest. Here the scene abruptly changes. What -first struck our attention was the bad roads. The ground is very -stony; great heaps of rocks lay all about; then again for a space it -is very swampy and full of springs; the forests all about are in bad -condition; the houses and inhabitants have the appearance not exactly -of destitution but still of very straitened circumstances. They are -almost in the condition of serfs to the Canonici of Saint Claude; they -are bound to the soil; many imposts are laid upon them.... - -"Yet this part of the valley is also a good deal built up. The natives -work hard to support themselves and yet they love their country; they -are in the habit of stealing the wood from the Bernese peasants and of -selling it again in the country. The first district is called Le Bois -d'Amont and we passed through this into the parish of Les Rousses, -where we saw lying before us the little Lake des Rousses and Les Sept -Moncels--seven little connected hills of varied forms, the southern -boundary of the valley. We soon came to the new road which leads from -the Pays de Vaud toward Paris. We followed it for a while downwards -and were soon out of our valley. The bald head of La Dôle lay before -us. We dismounted; our horses proceeded along the road to -Saint-Cergues, and we kept on our way up La Dôle. - -"It was about noon; the sun seemed hot but a cool midday wind was -blowing. When, in order to get breath, we turned around to look, we -had Les Sept Moncels behind us; we could still see a part of Le Lac -des Rousses and built around it the scattered houses of the parish. Le -Noir Mont hid from us all the rest of the valley; mounting higher we -once more saw the same prospect over La Franche-Comté and nearer to us -the last mountains and valleys of the Jura toward the south. We took -great pains to avoid allowing some turn in the ascent to give us a -prospect of the region for the sake of which we were actually climbing -the mountain. I was somewhat troubled by the fog; yet I made favorable -prognostications from the aspect of the sky above. - -"At last we attained the topmost peak and beheld with the greatest -delight that what had been denied us the day before was now vouchsafed -to us. The whole Pays de Vaud and Pays de Gex lay before us like a -map; all the landed estates with green hedges marked off like the -beds of a parterre. We were so high that the heights and depressions -of the country in the foreground did not appear. Villages, towns, -châteaux, vineyards, and higher up, where forest and Alps begin, -châlets, for the most part painted white and bright, shone in the sun. -The fog had lifted entirely from Lake Leman; we could see the nearer -shore clearly; we entirely looked over the so-called Petit Lac, where -the great lake narrows and draws toward Geneva, which lay directly -opposite us, and the country beyond, shutting it in, began to disclose -itself. Above all, however, the prospect of the ice and snow-mountains -asserted its rights. - -"We protected ourselves from the cold blast by the shelter of the -rocks and let the sun pour down directly upon us; food and drink -tasted excellently good! We looked down on the fog as it gradually -dispersed; each of us discovered something, or claimed to discover -something. Gradually Lausanne began to show with all its châteaux; -Vevey and the Castle of Chillon came out distinctly; the mountains -that shut us off from sight of the entrance to Valais, sloping down -into the lake; from there along the Savoy coast--Evian, Ripaille, -Thonon; villages and châteaux, all clustered together; Geneva came -finally out of the fog at the right; but farther toward the south, -toward Le Mont Crédo and Mont Vuache, where the Fort l'Ecluse lies -hidden, it still lingered. - -"When we turned to the left again, then the whole country from -Lausanne as far as Solothurn lay in a faint haze. The nearer mountains -and heights, wherever there were white houses, could be easily -recognized; some one pointed out to us the Castle of Chanvan as it lay -gleaming at the left by the Lake of Neuburg, and we could make out its -situation, but the castle itself we could not distinguish in the blue -haze. - -"Words fail to describe the magnitude and beauty of this view; at such -a moment one is scarcely conscious of gazing; one only calls out the -names and lofty forms of well-known cities and places and rejoices in -an intoxicating recognition that those white spots before one's eyes -are the places themselves. - -"And the ranges of gleaming ice-mountains kept attracting the eye and -the soul. The sun turned more toward the west and illuminated their -mighty sides. What black shoulders of rock, teeth, towers and walls in -multifold ranks swept up from the lake before them! forming wild, -monstrous, impenetrable vestibules! As they lie there in their purity -and clarity, manifold in the free air, one willingly yields all -pretentions to the infinite, since one can never be done with the -finite in contemplation and thought (_Anschauen und Gedanken_). - -"Before us we saw a fruitful inhabited land; the soil on which we were -standing, a high, bald mountain, still bears grass, fodder for cattle, -from which man draws sustenance. This the conceited Lord of the World -can claim as his own; but those mountains yonder are like a holy array -of virgins whom the Spirit of Heaven cherishes in inaccessible regions -for himself alone in everlasting chastity. - -"We stayed there, in eager rivalry, striving now with the naked eye, -now with the telescope, to make out cities, mountains and localities, -and we did not start to descend until the sun in its waning again -allowed the fog to spread its evening breath over the lake. Just at -sunset we came to the ruins of Le Fort de Saint-Cergues. Even down -below in the valley our eyes were still fastened upon the -ice-mountains far across. The farthest away, at the left in the -Oberland, seemed to be melting in a thin fiery vapor; those nearest -still stood with well-marked red sides facing us; gradually they grew -white, green, grey. It looked almost disquieting. As a mighty body -dies from without in toward the heart, so all of them slowly grew pale -up toward Mont Blanc, whose broad bosom still glowed rosy and seemed -to preserve for us a reddish glow. - -"At last reluctantly now we had to take our departure. We found the -horses at Saint-Cergues and, in order that there might be nothing -lacking, the moon rose and gave us light on our way to Nyon, while, as -we rode, our excited senses once more grew calm and assumed their -wonted tone, so that we were able with fresh enjoyment to find -pleasure in looking out of the windows of our inn on the wide -spreading reflection of the moon in the perfectly unruffled lake." - - * * * * * - -It makes one realize the flight of time to read a little farther on of -Goethe's visit to the illustrious De Saussure, through whose -initiative the ascent of Mont Blanc was accomplished nearly seven -years later. Goethe wanted to assure himself that it was feasible so -late in the season to go from Geneva by way of Cluse and Salanches -into the Valley of Chamonix and from there by way of Valorsine and -Trient into Martinach in the Valais. De Chaussure encouraged him to -do so, and in company still with the Duke Charles Augustus of Weimar -he made his famous trip which included a visit to Sion and the peak of -the Saint-Gothard. - -Just a hundred years after Gray and sixty years after Goethe -penetrated these mountains still another great poet enriched his -imagination by experiences in the Alps. Curiously enough all three of -them related their adventures and their sensations in the form of -letters. Victor Hugo was at Geneva and at Lausanne in September. He -had been at Lucerne, at Bern and upon the Rigi. He, too, was impressed -by the wonders of the Alpine mists. He, too, describes a sunset:-- - -"At this moment the abyss was growing magnificent. The sun was going -down behind the notched crest of Pilatus. Its rays rested only on the -highest summits of all the mountains and its level rays lay across -these monstrous pyramids like golden architraves. - -"All the mighty valleys of the Alps were filling with mists; it was -the hour when eagles and Lämmergeier seek their eyries. - -"I had stepped forward to the edge of the precipice above which rises -the cross and from which Goldau is visible. I was alone, with my back -turned toward the sunset. I know not what the others were looking -at; what I saw was sublime enough for me. - -[Illustration: "ALL THE MIGHTY VALLEYS OF THE ALPS WERE FILLING WITH -MISTS."] - -"The immense cone of shadow projected by the Rigi, clearly outlined by -its edges and, because of the distance, free from any visible -penumbra, gradually mounted, rock by rock, tree by tree, the steep -side of the Rossberg. The shadow mountain was devouring the sunlight -mountain. This vast dark triangle, the base of which was lost beneath -the Rigi and the apex of which was each instant coming nearer and -nearer the summit of the Rossberg, has already embraced Art, Goldau, -ten valleys, ten villages, half of the Lake of Zug and the whole Lake -of Lowerz. Clouds of reddish copper color floated across it and -changed into pewter. In the depths of the ravine Art floated in a -twilight glow starred here and there by lighted windows. Already poor -women were sewing down there by their lighted lamps. Art lives in the -night; the sun sets for its inhabitants at two o'clock. - -"A moment later the sun had disappeared, the wind blew cold, the -mountains were grey. Not a cloud was in the sky. The Rigi had become -solitary once more, with a boundless blue sky arching above. - -"In one of my earlier letters I spoke of 'these granite waves called -Alps.' I had no idea I had hit it so accurately. The image which came -into my mind appeared to me in all its vividness on the summit of the -Rigi after the sun had gone down. These mountains are really billows, -but giant billows. They have all the forms of the sea; there are -green, dark swells, which are the crests covered with evergreens; -blond and earthy seas, which are the granite slopes gilded with -lichens; on the loftiest undulations the snow is torn off and falls in -masses into black ravines as the foam does. You might think you saw a -mighty ocean solidified in the midst of a tempest by the breath of -Jehovah. - -"What would become of the horizon and the mind of man should these -enormous billows be suddenly set in motion again?" - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -A FORMER WORKER OF SPELLS - - -A small boulder rolling down into a river may quite change its course. -The sand begins immediately to bank up against it; the current is -insensibly turned away toward the other side, and from where the -boulder began to build a whole new area of intervale may in time -spread its bright green pasturage. - -Such a boulder was Dr. Tissot in Swiss life. He was not by any means -the first Lausanne physician to attract patients from abroad. In the -Sixteenth Century a Jean Volat de Chambéry, after having been a -Protestant minister at Lonay, practised medicine and became famous, -and in 1543 Jacques Blécheret was named médecin to the city. But all -before or since were insignificant compared to the great Dr. Tissot, -whom a well-known lady of his day in her enthusiasm called the god of -medicine. My nephew declared that his very name carried with it a -sound of infallibility--which was certainly subtle. He brought me a -copy of Tissot's famous book: "Avis au Peuple sur sa Santé." The first -edition came out in August, 1761, and it was soon translated into -German, Dutch, Flemish, English, Italian, Swedish, Danish, Hungarian, -Russian, Spanish and Polish. It was dedicated "Aux très-illustres, -très-nobles, et magnifiques Seigneurs les Seigneurs Presidens et -Conseilers de la Chambre de Santé de la Ville et Republique de Berne." - -It was a _vade mecum_ for people who lived far from doctors. "Il faut -seigner" was one of his prescriptions: in those days they resorted to -heroic measures; _vésicatoires_--whether made with Spanish flies or -not does not appear--were recommended for sore eyes; Hofmann's drops -for catarrhal fevers, stomach-cramps, colds and bronchitis. Every one -talked about Tissot and his remedies. He had them drink mineral -waters, especially recommending those of Rolle which he said had a -styptic taste and were "bonne pour obstructions du foie et de rate, -les galles, dartres, et autres maux de la peau." He gave excellent -advice about cleanliness and fresh air. - -It was needed in those days, for if quackery is rampant in this our -day of grace, how much more flagrant was it then. Some of the -remedies were amazing. Here is a decoction warranted to restore the -vital forces and animate the mind: It is made up of aloes from the -island of Socotora, a gross of Zodoaire, a gross each of gentian, -safran, fine rhubarb, thériaque de Venise; all which when compounded -was to be powdered, sifted through a parchment sieve; then when it -should have fermented nine days in the shade, shaken night and -morning, it was to be put into a pint of brandy. Another doctor -claimed to cure the stone by a dose of _tartines de miel_ for -breakfast and supper; that sounds more appetizing than a decoction of -Italian scorpions. Madame de Sévery had an attack of nerves: Dr. -Tissot gave her for this unpleasant malady a bitter bouillon made of -dandelion, chicory and soapwort. But his chief recommendation was to -eat slowly and chew carefully--an anticipation of Fletcherism. - -Auguste Tissot, of an old Italian family which came to Vaud in 1400, -was born at Grancy in March, 1728. He was educated at l'Isle by his -uncle, a Protestant pastor. Then he studied medicine at Montpellier, -and early won a reputation by his skill in curing smallpox. He was a -pronounced advocate of inoculation and wrote a book about it. He -became a professor at Lausanne in 1766 and both the King of Poland -and Maria Theresa tried in vain to woo him away to be their court -physician. George III wanted him in England. Napoleon wrote him about -his gouty uncle. He attended Frederic the Great in his last illness. -Venice offered him a chair in the University of Padua. Finally, -through the friendly offices of the Emperor Joseph II, whom he had -cured, he was induced to become a professor in Pavia, where he gave -lectures in Latin for two years and then resigned to return to his -beloved Lausanne. After his death in 1797 the Pavians erected a -monument to him. Angelica Kauffman at Rome painted the portrait of him -which is still at the Château de Crissier. The picture portrays him -with gallooned buttons; he holds a pen in his hand and his mouth is -slightly parted. Under an engraved portrait of him is this stanza:-- - - "Son coeur chérit l'humanité, - Son esprit le guide et l'éclaire; - Profond dans ses secrets, en instruisant la terre - Il vole à l'immortalité." - -He married a daughter of the learned Professor d'Apples de Charrière, -who brought him only four thousand livres. - -Tissot was the magnet that attracted the magnates. They came from all -lands and were of every rank:--"the Englishes" came, haughty lords and -ladies of high degree; French financiers, to say nothing of ducs and -vicomtes; German princes and kings and emperors in state or incog. The -streets, narrow, and not at that time well fitted for carriages, were -often blocked, and lively scenes took place; postilions would be -swearing in every known tongue, children squealing, horses falling and -threatening to roll down to Ouchy, whips cracking, and, as always, the -small boy taking great delight in the excitement. One day an Irish -prelate came in an equipage of three six-horse coaches, preceded by -many lackeys; then arrived a Russian princess with hard face, witty -and cultivated, speaking all languages. Some one tried to point out to -her the beauty of the view; _elle méprisait tout_. - -Another of his patients was la Comtesse de Brionne, widow of the -Prince Louis de Lorraine, beloved by the Duc de Choiseul; she stayed -in Lausanne a long time with her son, the Prince de Lambesc. Another -was the Countess Potocka, regarded as the loveliest woman in the world -and rousing wonder and admiration by her extraordinary head-dresses, -one of which was compared to the beautiful city of Lausanne--with its -three hills, _la cité en aigrette_, La Rue du Pré represented by the -parting in the middle, the Faubourgs de Saint-François and d'Estraz by -the two _papillons_ or butterfly arrangements and the Rue de Bourg by -a ribbon. - -In 1792 the Princess Alexander Liubomirska came. Her maître d'hôtel -was overheard uttering some impertinences about the government and the -bailiff had him arrested and put into jail. The princess was wrathful -and uttered worse impertinences, declaring that the country was -governed by tyrants. M. d'Erlach, who was really a great wit and quite -broad-minded, remarked that in a _tête-à-tête_ he could bear any sort -of reproaches from a pretty woman but _devant le monde_--that was -another matter. - -He gave the princess orders to leave town within twenty-four hours. -She hastened to Paris vowing that she would raise an army and come -back to avenge herself and her outraged maître d'hôtel. - -Prince Gregory Orlof, the favourite of Catharine the Great, came with -a suite of twenty-one, and his wife, the Princess Orlova-Zinovieva, -who in spite of the doctor's remedies died there and was buried in -the Cathedral. In 1782 the Duke of Gloucester, brother to George III, -came with a numerous suite and the asthma. He swore he would give an -arm or a leg to be free of it. He was very ill-favoured but -good-natured. His morganatic wife was with him--a tall, handsome, -cold-looking lady--also a little girl of nine and as a companion to -her a Lady Carpenter who was also haughty and handsome, with a -mouthful of superb teeth which she liked to show when she laughed. The -Grand Duke Paul of Russia came as Comte du Nord and put up at the Lion -d'Or Inn with his wife Marya Feodorovna, Princesse de Würtemberg. As a -special favour it was permitted to see them eat. That was a part of -the menagerie of royalty. They went up to Le Signal where they had -luncheon like ordinary mortals, and they slept at Vevey. In 1782 the -Princesse de Courland, first wife of the much married Pierre de -Courland, died at Mon Repos, much regretted for her charity and the -lavish expenditure in which she indulged. She, too, was buried in the -Cathedral. Another of Dr. Tissot's patients was the terrible dandy -Baron Auget de Montyon, intendant to the Duc d'Auvergne. Years -afterwards he founded the Montyon prizes for a virtue which he did -not possess. Of course Dr. Tissot was frequently called in to assuage -the discomforts caused by Gibbon's "ebullitions" of the gout. - -In Eynard's "Life of Tissot" there is an amusing account of Gibbon's -dancing the minuet:-- - -"A German highly educated, but naturally ardent and enthusiastic, -presented himself, furnished with excellent letters of recommendation, -to one of our professors at Lausanne, and expressed to him his desire -to make the acquaintance of the immortal author of the 'Avis au -Peuple.' The professor was going that evening to visit Madame de -Chavrière, who received the most agreeable people of Lausanne. He -proposed to the gentleman to introduce him there; it was in the -country. - -"At the moment when they arrived at Madame de Chavrière's the company -had just been playing games and were paying the forfeits. One of the -company was playing on a violin, while a gentleman of remarkable -corpulence appeared to be searching the room for something he could -not find. At length the violin gave forth louder sounds, and the stout -gentleman--it was no less a personage than the illustrious -Gibbon--came and took the hand of M. Tissot, whose figure, tall, -dignified, and cold, formed the most complete contrast with his own. -But this was not enough; the violin continued to play, and they were -both obliged to dance several figures of a minuet, to the great -delight of the whole assemblage. It was the payment of a forfeit due -from Gibbon, whose jovial temperament readily lent itself to this form -of pleasantry. - -"But the German whose sensibility and emotion at this spectacle had -been plainly visible did not realize what it meant. The following year -there was great astonishment at Lausanne to learn that he had taken it -all seriously and that in the account of his travels which he had just -printed, he cited as one of the most remarkable of his experiences the -advantage of having seen the celebrated historian of Rome and the -illustrious philanthropist, the benefactor of humanity, intertwining -dances and harmonious steps, thus recalling the beautiful days of -Arcadia, all whose antique virtues and simplicity they possessed." - -It is evident that Tissot was not only the physician to all these -great people; they were proud to own him as a friend. And since most -of his friends and patients were rich his rivals charged him with -being a charlatan and occupied only in making money. He did make -money, and some of his titled patients sent him splendid presents. - -Among the most interesting of M. Tissot's fair consultants was the -lively and piquante Madame de Genlis who arrived at Lausanne with her -father-in-law. She spent nearly a fortnight under his care, but the -fêtes, the balls, the concerts at which she displayed her charming -voice, and played the harp, the sails on the lake, the trips across to -La Meillerie, and a multitude of other dissipations might well have -undone all the doctor's prescriptions. But they were for her mother -not for her. Madame de Genlis had long sworn by his medical book. She -tells in her memoirs how she practised, in an amateur way, on or among -the villagers. M. Racine, the barber, always came to consult with her -whenever any one was ill. - -"We went together to visit them," she says. "My prescriptions were -confined to simple teas and broths which I usually sent from the -château. I was at least instrumental in moderating the zeal of M. -Racine for the emetics which he prescribed for almost every ill. I had -perfected myself in the art of bleeding; the peasants often came and -asked me to bleed them which I did; but as it was known that I always -gave them from twenty-four to thirty sous after a bleeding, I soon -had a great number of patients and I suspected that they were -attracted by the thirty sous." - -She gives an entertaining account of her arrival at Lausanne, where, -as she was sitting in her carriage, wearily waiting for her servant to -find lodgings, the young Prince of Holstein recognized her and -introduced her to Madame de Crousaz, the authoress, who procured for -her at the house of her father-in-law, M. de Crousaz, "charming rooms -with an enchanting view of the Lake of Geneva." - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -TO CHAMONIX - - -While I was reading about Madame de Genlis after breakfast one -morning, Ruth came into the library and we talked about the advantage -of foreign travel. Does the broadening effect come from seeing new -scenes or does it proceed from the intercourse which it favours with -men and women of entirely different habits and modes of thought? - -I said that my belief was that a person living in an isolated country -town, by reading books of travel, especially those furnished with -illustrations, and by attending "moving-picture shows," might attain -to as complete a knowledge of any given foreign country as he would by -merely travelling through it armed with a Baedecker. The generality of -travellers carry with them the individual aura of their own conceit -which is quite impermeable to new ideas, and what they have seen does -not soak into their inner consciousness at all. But for the average -person, if there be such a person, stay-at-home travel is more -advantageous than actual peregrinations. Rushing from one country to -another or from one place to another is not seeing a country. - -Ruth called my attention to what Lord Bacon said about travel. In his -day "the grand tour" was the culmination of a young nobleman's -education, and Italy was the goal. Switzerland was merely an obstacle -on the way, to be crossed with more or less discomfort and with little -thought of its picturesqueness. Ruth took down a handsome edition of -the "Essays" and turned to the one which treats of this subject and -read it aloud to me. - -It was not in accordance with his scheme to fill the mind with -pictures of beautiful scenery, though he realized that for young men -it is a part of education and for their elders a part of experience. -He says:--"He that travelleth into a country before he hath some -entrance into the language, goeth to school and not to travel." He -would not object for young men to travel provided they take a tutor -who knows languages and "may be able to tell them what things are -worthy to be seen in the country where they go, what acquaintances -they are to seek, what exercises or discipline the place yieldeth; -for else young men shall go hooded and look abroad little." - -He believed in keeping diaries. He tells us that the things to be seen -and observed are:--"the courts of princes, especially when they give -audience to ambassadors; the courts of justice, while they sit and -hear causes; and so of consistories ecclesiastic; the churches and -monasteries, with the monuments which are therein extant; the walls -and fortifications of cities and towns; and so the havens and harbors, -antiquities and ruins, libraries, colleges, disputations and lectures -where any are; shipping and navies; houses and gardens of state and -pleasure, near great cities; armories, arsenals, magazines, exchanges, -burses, warehouses, exercises of horsemanship, fencing, training of -soldiers and the like; comedies, such whereunto the better sort of -persons do resort; treasuries of jewels and robes; cabinets and -rarities; and to conclude, whatsoever is memorable in the places where -they go, after all which the tutors or servants ought to make diligent -inquiry. As for triumphs, masks, feasts, weddings, funerals, capital -executions and such shows, men need not to be put in mind of them; yet -they are not to be neglected." - -He did not believe in staying long in any one city or town; but "more -or less as the place deserveth, but not long," nor staying in any one -part of a town: "Let him change his lodging from one end and part of -the town to another, which is a great adamant of acquaintance." And he -advised "sequestering himself from the company of his countrymen and -diet in such places where there is good company of the nation where he -travelleth." Acquaintance was the thing to cultivate, especially -secretaries and attachés or, as Bacon called them, "employed men of -ambassadors," and the reason for this was that he might "suck the -experience of many." - -"When a traveller returneth home," he says in conclusion, "let him not -leave the countries where he hath travelled altogether behind him, but -maintain a correspondence by letter with those of his acquaintance -which are of most worth; and let his travel appear rather in his -discourse than in his apparel or gesture, and in his discourse let him -be rather advised in his answers than forward to tell stories, and let -it appear that he doth not change his country manners for those of -foreign parts but only prick in some flowers of that he hath learned -abroad into the customs of his own country." - -I remarked that Ralph Waldo Emerson found to his disappointment on -his first trip abroad that he could not rid himself of himself. It was -the same Emerson in Rome, in Paris and in London, as in Boston. How -much would travel do for such a man? The great philosopher, Immanuel -Kant, never ventured more than sixty miles from Königsberg and he was -lost if varied from the daily routine of shuttle-like attendance on -his lectures--back and forth, back and forth. - -"Yet," said I, "Kant wrote remarkably accurate descriptions of -Switzerland in his Physical Geography. He could never have seen the -Alps except in his imagination. - -"What better description can you find than in his 'Comparison of the -Beautiful with the Pleasant and the Good' where he says:--'Bold, -overhanging and as it were threatening rocks; clouds up-piled in the -heavens; moving along with flashes of lightning and peals of thunder; -volcanoes in all their violence of destruction; tornadoes with their -swath of devastation; the limitless ocean in a state of uproar and -similar spectacles exhibit our power of resistance as insignificantly -puny compared to their might. But the spectacle of them is the more -fascinating, the more terrible it is and we are prone to call these -objects sublime, because they raise the powers of the soul above -their accustomed height and discover in us a power of resistance of an -entirely different sort--one which gives us the courage to pit -ourselves against the apparently infinite power of Nature.'" - -[Illustration: MONT BLANC AND THE VALLEY OF CHAMONIX.] - -"That is fine," said Ruth, "I had forgotten, indeed I never knew that -Kant was such a poet." - -"Speaking of poetry," said I, "did you know that Coleridge, who wrote -the 'Hymn before Sunrise in the Vale of Chamouni,' had never seen -Chamonix or Mont Blanc in his life? Being a poet, he did not need to -see with his actual eyes. Moreover he had a model in Frederika Brunn's -'Chamouni at Sunrise,' which runs with a rhythm reminding me of some -of Richard Wagner's verses. Do you remember her poem?" - -"No, but it is in a note to Coleridge's." - -"Please read it." - - "'Aus tiefen Schatten des schweigenden Tannenhains, - Erblick' ich bebend dich, Scheitel der Ewigkeit, - Blendender Gipfel, von dessen Höhe - Ahnend mein Geist ins Unendliche schwebet. - - "'Wer senkte den Pfeiler in der Erde Schoss, - Der, seit Jahrtausenden, fest deine Masse stützt? - Wer türmte hoch in des Aethers Wölbung - Mächtig und kühn dein umstrahltes Antlitz? - - "'Wer goss Euch hoch aus der ewigen Winters Reich? - O Zackenströme, mit Donnergetös' herab? - Und wer gebietet laut mit der Allmacht Stimme: - 'Hier sollen ruhen die starrenden Wogen?' - - "'Wer zeichnet dort dem Morgensterne die Bahn? - Wer kränzt mit Blüten des ewigen Frostes Saum? - Wem tönt in schrecklichen Harmonieen, - Wilder Arveiron, dein Wogengetümmel? - - "'Jehovah! Jehovah! kracht's im berstenden Eis; - Lavinendonner rollen's die Kluft hinab: - Jehovah rauscht's in den hellen Wipfeln, - Flüstert's an rieselnden Silberbächen.' - -"I think that expression, 'Scheitel der Ewigkeit' is ludicrous," said -Ruth. - -"Coleridge always improved on his originals when he translated, but it -looked rather odd for him to have discussed the elements of the -scenery in the Alps when he had never been in Savoy. It looks as if he -tried to throw dust in people's eyes. But tell me, Ruth, which do you -like best the Coleridge 'Hymn' or Shelley's 'Mont Blanc,' which also -claims to have been written in the Vale of Chamonix? First you read -the lines you like best in Coleridge and then I will read a few -passages from Shelley." - -Ruth took the volume of Coleridge and began. "I like the first twelve -lines," she said:-- - - "'Hast thou a charm to stay the morning-star - In his steep course? So long he seems to pause - On thy bald awful head, O sovran Blanc! - The Arve and Arveiron at thy base - Rave ceaselessly; but thou, most awful Form, - Risest from forth thy silent sea of pines, - How silently! Around thee and above - Deep is the air and dark, substantial, black, - An ebon mass: methinks thou piercest it - As with a wedge! But when I look again, - It is thine own calm home, thy crystal shrine, - Thy habitation from eternity.'" - -"Yes," I said, "that 'bald awful head' is better than 'Scheitel der -Ewigkeit,' but I don't like the immediate repetition of 'awful' two -lines below; 'as with a wedge,' too, is weak. But go on!" - - "'Awake, my soul! not only passive praise - Thou owest! not alone these swelling tears, - Mute thanks and secret ecstasy. Awake, - Voice of sweet song! Awake, my heart, awake! - Green vales and icy cliffs, all join my Hymn! - - "'Thou first and chief, sole sovereign of the Vale! - O, struggling with the darkness all the night, - And visited all night by troops of stars, - Or when they climb the sky or when they sink: - Companion of the morning-star at dawn, - Thyself Earth's rosy star and of the dawn - Co-herald: wake, O wake, and utter praise! - Who sank thy sunless pillars deep in Earth? - Who filled thy countenance with rosy light? - Who made thee parent of perpetual streams?'" - -Again I interrupted:--"I think it is far-fetched to call the mountain -'Earth's rosy star,' and again he uses the word 'rosy' just below: -'who filled thy countenance with rosy light?' That is a weak line, -don't you think? 'Visited all night by troops of stars' however is -masterly. But go on." - - "'And you, ye five wild torrents fiercely glad! - Who called you forth from night and utter death, - From dark and icy caverns called you forth, - Down those precipitous, black, jagged rocks, - Forever shattered and the same forever? - Who gave you your invulnerable life, - Your strength, your speed, your fury and your joy, - Unceasing thunder and eternal foam? - And who commanded (and the silence came) - Here let the billows stiffen and have rest. - Ye ice-falls! ye that from the mountain's brow - Adown enormous ravines slope amain-- - - "'Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice - And stopt at once amid their maddest plunge! - Motionless torrents! silent cataracts! - Who made you glorious as the Gates of Heaven - Beneath the keen full moon? Who bade the sun - Clothe you with rainbows? Who, with living flowers - Of loveliest blue, spread garlands at your feet? - God! let the torrents, like a shout of nations, - Answer! and let the ice-plains echo, God! - God! sing ye meadow-streams with gladsome voice! - Ye pine-groves, with your soft and soul-like sounds! - And they too have a voice, yon piles of snow, - And in their perilous fall shall thunder, God! - - "'Ye living flowers that skirt the eternal frost! - Ye wild goats sporting round the eagle's nest! - Ye eagles, playmates of the mountain-storm! - Ye lightnings, the dread arrows of the clouds! - Ye signs and wonders of the elements! - Utter forth God and fill the hills with praise! - - "'Thou, too, hoar Mount! with thy sky-pointing peaks, - Oft from whose feet the avalanche, unheard, - Shoots downward, glittering through the pure serene - Into the depth of clouds that veil thy breast-- - Thou too again, stupendous Mountain! thou - That as I raise my head, awhile bowed low - In adoration, upward from thy base - Slow traveling with dim eyes suffused with tears, - Solemnly seemest, like a vapory cloud, - To rise before me--Rise, O ever rise, - Rise like a cloud of incense from the Earth! - Thou kingly Spirit throned among the hills, - Thou dread ambassador from Earth to Heaven, - Great Hierarch! tell thou the silent sky - And tell the stars and tell yon rising sun - Earth with her thousand voices praises God!'" - -"I think it ends pretty feebly," said I. "He compares Mont Blanc first -with a vapoury cloud, then to a cloud of incense; then calls it a -kingly Spirit throned, then a dread ambassador and then a Great -Hierarch. What could be more mixed in its metaphors? But now let us -take Shelley's 'Mont Blanc.'" - -"I think it begins with a curious mixture," said Ruth. "He says the -everlasting universe of things flows through the mind, where from -secret springs the source of human thought brings its tribute of -waters with a sound but half its own such as a feeble brook assumes in -the wild woods. How can the eternal universe of things rolling rapid -waves diminish itself to a feeble brook? But it goes on:-- - - "'In the wild woods, among the mountains lone, - Where waterfalls around it leap forever - Where woods and winds contend, and a vast river - Over its rocks ceaselessly bursts and raves.'" - -"It seems to me a hopeless mixture. The description of the Vale is -better:-- - - "'Thus thou, Ravine of Arve--dark, deep Ravine-- - Thou many-colored, many-voiced vale, - Over whose pines and crags and caverns sail - Fast cloud-shadows and sunbeams: awful scene, - Where Power in likeness of the Arve comes down - From the ice-gulfs that gird his secret throne, - Bursting thro' these dark mountains like the flame - Of lightning thro' the tempest;--thou dost lie, - Thy giant brood of pines around thee clinging, - Children of elder time, in whose devotion - The chainless winds still come and ever came - To drink their odors and their mighty swinging - To hear--an old and solemn harmony; - Thine earthly rainbows stretcht across the sweep - Of the ethereal waterfall, whose veil - Robes some unsculptured image; the strange sleep - Which when the voices of the desert fail - Wraps all in its own deep eternity;-- - Thy caverns, echoing to the Arve's commotion, - A loud, lone sound no other sound can tame; - Thou art pervaded with that ceaseless motion, - Thou art the path of that unresting sound-- - Dizzy Ravine! and when I gaze on thee - I seem as in a trance sublime and strange - To muse on my own separate fantasy, - My own, my human mind which passively - Now renders....'" - -"Oh stop, stop! Uncle, I can't follow it!" - -"Very good, I will skip to where he tells how he is gazing on the -naked countenance of earth. Listen:-- - - "'The glaciers creep - Like snakes that watch their prey, from their far fountains - Slow rolling on....'" - -"What are rolling on, snakes, avalanches or far fountains?" - - "'There many a precipice, - Frost and the Sun in scorn of mortal power - Have piled: dome, pyramid, and pinnacle, - A city of death, distinct with many a tower - And wall impregnable of beaming ice. - Yet not a city but a flood of ruin - Is there, that from the boundaries of the sky - Rolls its perpetual stream; vast pines are strewing....'" - -"Oh, what a rhyme--ruin and strewin'. Do you suppose Shelley dropped -his 'g''s?" - -"Don't be irreverent. Listen:-- - - "'vast pines are strewing - Its destined path, or in the mangled soil - Branchless and shattered stand; the rocks drawn down - From yon remotest waste, have overthrown - The limits of the dead and living world....' - -"I will omit about a dozen rather blind lines about man and his -puniness and begin:-- - - "'Below, vast caves - Shine in the rushing torrents' restless gleam, - Which from those secret chasms a tumult welling - Meet in the vale, and one majestic River - The breath and blood of distant lands, forever - Rolls its loud waters to the ocean waves, - Breathes its swift vapors to the circling air.' - -"Now he comes to Mont Blanc itself:-- - - "'Mont Blanc yet gleams on high:--the power is there, - The still and solemn power of many sights, - And many sounds and much of life and death. - In the calm darkness of the moonless nights, - In the lone glare of day, the snows descend - Upon that Mountain; none beholds them there, - Nor when the flakes burn in the sinking sun, - Or the star-beams dart thro' them:--Winds contend - Silently there and heap the snow with breath - Rapid and strong but silently! Its home - The voiceless lightning in these solitudes - Keeps innocently and like vapor broods - Over the snow. The secret strength of things - Which governs thought and to the infinite dome - Of heaven is as a law, inhabits there! - And what were thou and earth and stars and sea - If to the human mind's imaginings - Silence and solitude were vacancy?' - -"Well, what do you say? Which is the truer poetry?" I asked. - -"I think that Shelley would have done better if he had not tried to -rhyme his verses," said Ruth. "The attempt to find rhymes led him on -and on into meanings that he didn't mean. But there are fine lines in -both. By the way," she added with an abrupt dislocation of our -literary talk, and yet it was suggested by it, "Will and I propose to -take you to Chamonix. Would you like that?" - -"Of course I would." - -"We will get an early start to-morrow--that is, if the weather prove -propitious." - -The weather could not have been more kindly disposed. We started early -in the morning and reached Villeneuve in less than an hour. Thence we -rode up the at first broad and then ever narrowing valley of the -mystic Rhône. I wished that I might see some of the strange things -that it is said to conceal. Juste Olivier tells of its sandy -nonchalant banks, its marshes and creeks of almost stagnant waters, -the little bridges carrying fascinating paths, which later, glittering -with silvery dust, suddenly plunge under long vaults where the light -scarcely penetrates the green cool arches. - -"Here and there," he says, "there are fantastic clearings. Old trunks -of ancient willows, oddly wrapt around and still more oddly crowned -now with creepers, now with young bushes which have climbed to their -tops, and now with their own branches contorted and interlaced. -Immense oaks loved by adventurous pairs of the wild pigeons which fill -the solitude with their plaintive notes. Young alders countless in -number and growing so closely the heifers can with difficulty force a -way through between their smooth even trunks. In a word, a forest -variegated by marshes, by patches of sand, by yellowish fields where -the water contributes its murmur, the desert its solemnity, the -infinite its mystery, the unknown its charm. - -"This is what you find in these shores of the Rhône called Les Isles. -Sometimes strange noises come to the inhabited châlets and the reedy -plain and startle the passer-by and are lost in the neighboring -fields; it is the voice of la Fennetta-des-Isles who sometimes bellows -like the _bise_ in the trees, sometimes like the calves in the -pastures, and seems to run over the wrinkled waters of the canal. If -the clamor approach the fisherman pulls in his line and turns his head -away, for he knows that any person who has caught sight under any form -whatever of the fantastic being who thus howls in the gloomy woods -has little more to expect from life." - -We heard no bellowing Lady-of-the-Isles nor did we see her under any -form. Probably electric trams, and corrective dykes, and the skeptical -boldness of modern science has scared the Little Lady away. She will -never come back. - -We had a glance at the big château of Aigle and looked to see if we -could recognize any of the fair black-eyed, plump-figured women for -which that place is famous. We saw the waterfalls on the Grande Eau. -We passed through "the smiling village of Bex" and Will asked me if I -would like to take the time to visit the remarkable salt-works at Bex -the Old--Bévieux--but I told him that I preferred Attic salt. Then we -discussed the question how salt should have been deposited so high up -among the mountains. Was it the relic of the vast ocean that once -covered all Europe? This presence of salt-laden anhydrite and the -occasional sulphur springs with high temperatures are extremely -interesting. There is evidently heat enough under the Alps to start a -volcano some day. - -The sight of the mountains gathering about us menacingly made me again -remember Juste Olivier's poetic description of the names of these -Savoyan Alps. He advised his pupils to climb them, his word, as the -word of every true Alpinist, is "conquer"--conquer them:-- - -"What marvellous treasures! What fragrant valleys! What flower-adorned -slopes! What dazzling crystals! What depths of shade! What fountains! -Happy son of the Alps who has succeeded in taming the Genius of them. -From the highest summits like a cascade in the eternal chant, by a -thousand brooks, by a thousand murmurs, over slate and granite down to -the depths of staggering abysses, across mist-hung crags, by the side -of mournful lakes, amid green and smiling hiding-places, along -pasture-grounds spread with a network of light and shade, in -fir-forests which roar like the sea, beds of thyme under beach-trees -and laburnum, Poesy descends into the valleys and with the sunset -turns back in jets of flame toward the skies. - -"Go forth, young hearts! Go quench your thirst at this unknown spring. -Follow up the torrents and lose yourselves in the plaintive forests. -The Genius of the Alps is waiting for you, and there also is the -secret home of the Genius of the Fatherland." - -Rogers took this same route and wrote about it, almost a hundred years -ago, at this very same Saint-Maurice where we now arrived:-- - - "Still by the Leman Lake, for many a mile, - Among those venerable trees I went, - Where damsels sit and weave their fishing-nets, - Singing some national song by the way-side. - But now the fly was gone, the gnat was come; - Now glimmering light from cottage-windows broke. - 'Twas dark; and, journeying upward by the Rhone, - That there came down, a torrent from the Alps, - I entered where a key unlocks a kingdom; - The road and river, as they wind along - Filling the mountain-pass. There, till a ray - Glanced through my lattice and the household stir - Warned me to rise, to rise and to depart." - -There was much to interest us at Saint-Maurice, which traces its -ancestry to an old Keltic town called Acaunum or Agaunum (as the -Latins spelled it). Here once occurred an event which would have -pleased Count Tolstoï. A manuscript of the Ninth Century, discovered -by Professor Emil Egli at Zürich, relates it as follows:-- - -"In the army of the Roman Emperor Maximilian who reigned from 286 -until 306 A. D. was enrolled a legion brought from the east and called -the Thebæan Legion. They hesitated about fighting brother-Christians. -The Emperor learned in the neighboring town of Octodurum that the -legion was mutinous in the narrow pass of Agaunum. He ordered every -tenth man to be beheaded. But when the legion persisted in its -obstinacy he repeated the punishment. Those left mutually exhorted one -another to persist and their leader Mauricius with two officers, -Exuperius and Candidus advised them rather to perish than to fight -against Christians. - -"So they threw down their arms and were hacked to pieces." - -The legion consisted of sixty-six hundred men. According to other -legends--for this is only a legend which arose in the Fifth -Century--some of the legion were subjected to a martyr's death -elsewhere--Ursus, Victor and Verena at Solothurn, Felix and Regula at -Zürich. However the story may be regarded, the town is supposed to -have received its name from the leader of the Eastern legion. The -abbey now occupied by Augustine canons who take pride (for a fee) in -showing their treasures--a Saracen vase, a gold crozier and a silver -ewer presented by Charlemagne, and other relics--is said to date back -to the Fourth Century and was founded by Saint Theodore, one of -Licinius' Greek officers, who was converted and put to death. - -Next we arrived at Martigny, the ancient Roman town of Octodurus, near -the junction of the Dranse with the Rhône. Octodurus signified the -Castle in the Narrows. It was the capital of the Veragri who with the -Seduni held possession of the pass of the Great Saint-Bernard. Cæsar -makes mention of it in the Third Book of the Gallic War. - -Investigations have shown that the Wallisi had the right bank of the -Dranse and the Romans the left. Suddenly Galba discovered that all the -inhabitants had deserted their houses in one night and that a great -body of the Seduni and Veragri were occupying the heights. They knew -that the legion was not complete, that two cohorts were at Acaunum and -that a good many had gone over the Alps to get provisions and that the -fortifications were not finished. - -"Galba held a council of war. Some of the men were in favor of -fighting their way back; but the majority voted to defend the camp. In -the meantime, at a given signal, the Wallisi began to storm down from -the heights and fling stones and lances. The Romans defended -themselves and every shot told. Wherever there was a rush of the -enemy the Romans met them. But the Wallisi had constant -reinforcements. After fighting six hours ammunition began to fail. -Breaches were made in the walls; the ditches were filled up and the -Romans were in desperate plight. Then Galba had his men rest a while, -and at a sudden signal having armed themselves with the lances of the -enemy, they made a sudden sortie. The Wallisi were surprised and took -to flight. Out of thirty thousand at least a third were killed and the -rest threw down their arms. Although the whole country was cleared of -the enemy Galba decided to winter elsewhere, and having burnt the -town, he led his troops undisturbed down the Rhône through the -Nantuati along the lake into that of the Allobrigi." - -[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF THE RHÔNE AT MARTIGNY.] - -In the years thirty-seven, thirty-six and thirty-four B. C. the -Wallisi defeated the Romans, but under Augustus, in the year seven -B. C., they were conquered in turn. Augustus treated them humanely and -left them to govern themselves though procurators were sent among them -to collect tribute. In twenty-two A. D. Octodurus was given the rights -of a free city and had the protection of the Roman law: this was a -great incentive to trade and it became the capital and flourished. -Claudius made it an imperial market-town and gave it the name of -Forum Claudi Vallensium. In forty-seven the pass over the Great -Saint-Bernard was made into a highway and provided with mile-stones -clear down to Vevey. Relics of this can still be seen here and there, -now high above the pass, now following the Dranse, and the natives -call it still _la route romaine_. - -Back of Martigny-ville along the Dranse is a broad field with -morasses; it belonged to the Abbey of the Great Saint-Bernard. It had -little value even as pasturage as its surface was covered with all -sorts of rubbish and scattered stones. In 1874 the artist, Raphael -Ritz, was making excavations near the so-called _trésor de la -Deleyse_. There was found the relics of a small amphitheatre with -bones and teeth of wild animals which had been slaughtered there "to -make a Roman holiday." "Aux Morasses" gave up the remains of a -colossal bronze statue with gilded garment, a huge oxhead, a laurel -wreath with fine bronze leaves, smashed with blows from an ax and then -sunk into the thick miry soil. It is supposed that early Christians -may have treated these objects in such a manner because they regarded -them as idols. - -In 1895 systematic excavations were instituted and a wall sixty-three -by thirty-one meters was discovered. It was the remains of a basilica -which served as a trading-station or custom-house, while in front of -it was the forum where once mingled Roman merchants, citizens, -soldiers, officials, priests and natives. It was supported by thirteen -large columns. On both sides of the square or piazza were narrow -wings, each furnished with stalls for merchants and smiths. In front -ran the Roman road, meant to last for all time; it is still here and -there visible running up the valley. It was paved with large irregular -stones. Along the southwest wing were a row of columns with enormous -pedestals. The great building was divided into three halls. One ending -in a semicircle, like the letter D, had a place for the statue of a -god. In the north central wall were eight pilasters and in the niches -skeletons were found. - -Next to this was still another large building and beyond it was a -private dwelling with marble floor, marble dado and painted walls. Any -number of coins dating from the year one till three hundred and fifty -A. D. were picked up. These buildings were covered with hollow tiles; -and the hewn stones for the columns, the door-sills, the curb-stones, -were all brought from the Jura. Some of the marble came from Italy, -some from Greece; there was even porphyry from Egypt. All about -Martigny were found these wonderful remains of Roman occupation. One -capital of a temple was of colossal dimensions. They had -drinking-water piped to the city. - -At La Batiaz, where stands the old castle that belonged to the Bishop -of Sion, but was dismantled nearly four hundred years ago, stood a -Roman watch-tower and not far away the graveyard was found among the -vineyards of Ravoire. We saw an inscription which was intensely -interesting:-- - - SALVTI.SACRVM - FOROCLAVDIEN - SES.VALLENSES - CVM - T.POMPONIO - VICTORE - PROC.AVGVSTO - RVM - -This signified that Titus Pomponius had, with the aid of the -inhabitants, erected an altar to the Goddess of Safety. It dated back -to the time of Marcus Aurelius, the good emperor. At that day Wallis -(which it must be remembered is still preserved in the very name Vaud) -was united under the same government with the Graian Alps. The same -Titus Pomponius, together with his family, is found mentioned on an -altar to the god Sylvanus as a thank-offering for the conclusion of -his term of service, and it preserves a poem addressing the god as -hiding in the foliage of the sacred ash-tree, as the protector of the -lofty green luxuriant forest. It thanks him for having brought them -from a far land and over the immovable mountains of the Alps amid the -sweet perfumes of the bushes; it says:--"I performed the duties of the -office conferred upon me. Lead me and mine back to Rome, and let us -under thy protection cultivate Italian fields. I vow that I will plant -a thousand mighty trees to thee." - -The Bishop Theodorus lived here in 381 A. D. The Théodule pass is -named for him. He built a Christian basilica on the site of the -heathen temple. But the Dranse overflowed it and covered it deep with -mud and stones. Fire finished it, and now all that is left of it is -ashes, broken tiles, melted glass and bits of metal. - -Martigny is another of the towns in which I should like to spend a -month. There are so many excursions to be taken from it as a -centre--up the Arpille, up to the Pierre à Voir from which one looks -down into two river valleys and across to the Bernese and Valaisian -Alps--a splendid view; to La Dent de Morcles, the Pissevache cascade -and dozens of other trips for pleasant days. - -The geology here also is particularly interesting. Here the Rhône once -more proved that might made right. He turned at almost right angles -and stole into the valley belonging to the Dranse. Here the glaciers -of the ice-age polished the rock wall--"the most remarkable example of -ice-action in the Alps." - -Above Martigny we find the real and only genuine valley of the Rhône: -elsewhere it is a robber. - -Still ascending the Rhône valley we reached Saxon with its picturesque -ruined castle, and then crossing the Ardon and the Morge beyond Riddes -reached the medieval city of Sion just at sunset. Approaching the -famous old city it was like a dream--the castles on the hills so -kindly left by the river; high up, the Château de Tourbillon, where -for five hundred years the princely bishops used to luxuriate, looking -down on a world of beauty. - -Across a valley on a hill only twenty meters lower stands the old -castle of Valeria taking the place of an earlier Roman fort; its -towers glittered in the sunlight's last rays. We went to it in the -morning, and, on paying a fee, were admitted to the Thirteenth-Century -church of Notre Dame, with its quaint Romanesque capitals, and -Seventeenth-Century choir-stalls elaborately carved. And, of course, -being devoted to antiquities, we looked into the cantonal museum next -door. We went also into the Fifteenth-Century Gothic cathedral with -its tower six hundred years older; and admired the carved ceiling in -the splendid hall of the Super-saxo mansion. - -[Illustration: PISSEVACHE CASCADE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -A DETOUR TO ZERMATT - - -Whom should we meet at the hotel at Sion but my friend, Lady Q. She -immediately recognized me, and I had the pleasure of presenting to her -my niece and her husband. She was on her way to Zermatt and she -advised us to leave the car at Visp and take the State Railway over to -the region of the Matterhorn. That name amused Will. He asked Lady Q. -if we should not be permitted to see the original Vill of the Visp -there. Of course Lady Q., being English, saw his joke in a second and -thought it very bad, as we all did. The result of it was that we asked -her to join us on this trip. But she was expecting friends from Geneva -and therefore was obliged to forego the pleasure. So we started off -without her, but we adopted her advice. Just above Sion we had a good -view of the gorge through which rushes the turbulent Borgne coming -down from the wild Val d'Hérens. We crossed the Liène at -Saint-Léonard, and just as we reached Sierre we saw a company of -pedestrians starting off for the pleasant plateau of Montana. I have -seen it since standing up a thousand meters above the Rhône valley, -with its charming lakes reflecting the mountains beyond and its -splendid view of Mont Blanc and the Weisshorn and the heights between -them. - -Sierre has its interest to the student of geology; for all around it -can be seen the remains of a tremendous rock-fall. It extended from -Pfyn almost to the mouth of the Liena. It dammed up the valley and -imprisoned the Rhône. But the Rhône, who had learned what he could do -with his mighty forces, grew more and more indignant; he swelled his -haughty breast, and, when he knew the right moment had come, he put -forth his energy and burst his way through. All the forces of the sky -helped him; the rains came to his aid, and the tempests and the sun -beat down on the snow-fields and contributed to his release. What a -sight it must have been when the rushing flood once more went roaring -down the valley! What billows, what sheets of sparkling foam, what -crashing of overturned forests and jangling of monstrous boulders -rolled along to be the wonder of succeeding ages! - -Perhaps the pretty little ponds near Sierre are the relics of this -prehistoric freshet. All these regions too were haunted by the ancient -Kelts. Many warriors were killed hereabouts and were buried in graves -even now occasionally detected. I saw a beautifully designed bronze -sword which was found in one on the hill of Tevent. - -Visp has three names: in French it is Viège. We admired the view up -the valley with its great snow pyramid, the Balfrin, more than twice -as high as Mount Washington. From here on Teeth become Horns; there -are any number of them: Schwarzhorn and Weisshorn and Rothorn, and -Faulhorn, and Spitzhorn and Magenhorn and Trifthorn and Mittaghorn and -Hohberghorn and the Brunegghorn and Täschhorn--all of them giants -covered with eternal snow. - -We left the car at a hotel garage and took the train. Up, up we -climbed with the Visp River brawling at our left. Then crossing it we -reached Stalden between the two branches of the Visp and with superb -views. Here we were told was about the limit of the grape-culture. One -would not think that fruit could ripen so high above the sea. The -grade now and then becomes so steep that the rack and pinion has to -help the engine; there are viaducts--the one over the Mühlebach being -fifty meters high--and tunnels and long passages close to the -precipices, now running straight for a short distance, then winding -past sharp corners. The gorges of Kipfen and Selli are cluttered with -gigantic blocks of gneiss, over and among which the Visp makes its -precipitous way. Saint-Niklaus is almost sixteen hundred feet higher -than Visp, and Randa is more than a thousand feet higher than -Saint-Niklaus. - -From Randa if one wanted to stop there is a convenient approach to the -Dom, which is said to be the highest mountain belonging entirely to -Switzerland. Its top is four thousand five hundred and fifty-four -meters high and it affords one of the grandest views in the Alps. -There are, however, others much more difficult; the Edelspitze on the -Gabelhorn, though four thousand feet lower, was not conquered until -1904; Professor Tyndall was the first to climb the Weisshorn. But that -was in 1861. He was nearly killed by the bombardment of rocks from -above. - -Above the little hamlet of Täsch the road, after following the right -bank of the Visp, crosses it near the châlets of Zermettje, and, -gradually mounting high and higher above the river, it enters an -extraordinarily narrow defile, and, though every one is forewarned, at -the end of it comes the grand surprise--at the right the first glimpse -of the Matterhorn, or, as good Swiss like best to call it, Le Mont -Cervin--just a tantalizing glimpse, no more; but who would not -recognize it, standing up isolated and solitary like an enormously -exaggerated Indian arrow-head, or rather the flint from which it -comes? - -If there is any one thing I detest in travelling it is tunnels; they -are marvellous; the skill of man in digging them, in so calculating -their direction and their level that though men start from opposite -sides of a high mountain, as they did at Mont-Cenis, at the -Loetschberg, at the Simplon, and at all the other great -mountain-bores, is beyond all praise; but practically they shut one -off from the light and the wide horizons. - -We were landed safely at Zermatt and for two days we had most perfect -views of that wonderful valley and its king of mountains. Here is -the story of its conquest. Until 1858 it was regarded as -unapproachable--in every sense of the word. But man is never satisfied -with the eternal negative. For seven years the battle was waged, and, -at last, in July, 1865, Edward Whymper, Lord Francis Douglas, David -Hadow and Charles Hudson, with three guides, succeeded in attaining -the top. Whymper related the story of the campaign in a volume. - -[Illustration: LE MONT CERVIN.] - -A high price was paid for the success. Every one knows that it is -easier to climb than it is to descend. This is particularly true of -mountain-excursions. There is a buoyant exhilaration in mounting, -especially for the first time; but in addition to the physical -difficulties of the descent there is the anticlimax which is moral; so -that often the last miles of the descent are sheer agony. "While -during an enthusiastic ascent the hope of a steadily nearing goal -lifts the climber over all difficulties, in descending only the -difficulties remain, while the fatigue increases and the interest -diminishes." - -In descending the Matterhorn Hadow lost his footing, and tumbled -against Croz, who, not being prepared, lost his. They took with them -Lord Francis and Hudson. Had not the rope to which they were attached -broken probably Whymper and the two guides Taugwalder, father and son, -would have all lost their lives. The survivors could see the doomed -four struggling vainly to stop the terrible glissade. Then they -disappeared over the precipice. Three of them fell on the Cervin -glacier four thousand feet below; Lord Francis Douglas's body was -never recovered. Bringing the tragedy in their hearts the other three -safely reached Zermatt. - -Three days later Jean Antoine Carrel and Jean Baptiste Bich reached -the top from the Italian side and they were followed by Professor -Tyndall, who went up by the Breuil route and came down to Zermatt. He -also wrote an account of it and one of the _pics_ was named for him. -That was in 1868, and since then, though it is still the most -dangerous of the larger peaks, it has been attained by hundreds. In -1867 a young girl, the daughter of J. B. Carrel, reached within less -than a hundred meters of the top, and the point where she was blocked -has been named for her Le Col de Félicité. Miss Lucy Walker, of -England, was the first woman to master the peak. She went up from the -Zermatt side, returning the same way, July 22, 1871. Miss Brevoort, an -American, was the first woman to make what is called the "traverse" -from Switzerland to Italy; that was also in 1871. - -The year before, Javelle, with only one guide, Nicolas Kubel, reached -the top by remarkable good fortune, for no other ascent was made that -whole year. At the edge of the Gorner glacier they found a bunch of -Alpine roses, the highest arborescent vegetation they encountered. -Like many other persons, Javelle supposed that Mont Cervin was "a -simple giant pyramid unique in the boldness of its form, the hugeness -of its bulk, the pride of its isolation." It is really, as Mr. -Coolidge says, "the butt end of a long ridge," and not an isolated -mass rising above a glacial plateau. When they reached the arête -connecting the Hörnli with the base of the Cervin they rested for an -hour. - -When they reached the first wall of the pyramid a fierce north wind -began to blow, but they scaled the rocks and then had to walk along an -icy arête. When they got about half-way "the sound of a dull rumbling" -reached them from above. It was the jealous Spirit of the Mountain who -was trying to bombard them with stones. They had just time to flatten -themselves against the crag, which, fortunately, hung over them. Great -rocks and boulders bounded within a meter of their heads; for half an -hour the baffled Spirit kept up his attack and then gave it up. - -Visitors like ourselves, looking up to the Cervin, see a long couloir -which looks smooth and easy. Javelle says that it is cut up by -veritable ravines plowed by avalanches or worn in the strata of the -rock, so that the whole surface is far more rugged than it appears. -The adamantine gneiss with strata of serpentine schist wears but -slowly; but sometime the proud apex will be undermined and fall with a -world-shaking crash. - -After they had climbed with much difficulty and fatigue for about an -hour they discovered the hut which some enterprising guides had -constructed of planks, walled up with stones. For a hundred feet the -precipice is perpendicular and to reach it they had to cling with -their fingers to the roughness of the rock. It is at a height of more -than thirty-eight hundred meters. - -They reached it, and, while the guide was preparing supper, Javelle -went out to a hump in the crag to enjoy the spectacle:-- - -"My eyes turned first of all toward the summit of Le Cervin. The tawny -head of the colossus rose just above us. Through the crystalline air -of those upper regions it seemed scarcely five hundred feet away and -the rock stood out in startling ruggedness. The mighty flank of the -pyramid, tremendously seamed and naked, lay before me: Below lay the -lonely white plains of the Furgg and the Théodule glaciers; in -front beyond them Monte Rosa tossed up its magnificent cluster of -peaks.... - -[Illustration: MONTE ROSA.] - -"From the hut on Le Cervin no disrespect to Monte Rosa is possible. -The true sovereign is restored to rank and position. The mountain is -seen to be vast, mighty, magnificent as it is not from any other point -of view; its rivals are humbled, and its summit, gracious and noble -rather than haughty, shines unquestionably the highest of all in the -sky." - -Then came the sunset:-- - -"The vast triangular shadow of Le Cervin stretched before us across -the Furgg and the Théodule glaciers as far as the Gorner glacier. At -our left the Zermatt valley already lay in a bluish darkness; it -seemed as if the night were emerging from those depths. A moment later -and the whole amphitheater of snow-covered cliffs shone with a divine -glory. Only two tints, but those graduated in a thousand delicate -shades, were used in this mighty painting. One was a soft deep azure, -the azure of the invading shadows; the other a pure ethereal gold -flung forth by the last rays of the sun. In the sky the two tints -intermingling, shed a splendid violet reflection on the zenith." - -A slight hint at the dangers to which the climber is exposed was -afforded just before they had left the couloir for the shoulder. A -projecting knob on which they had set foot slipped away and went -bounding down the side a thousand meters: "The Cervin counted one more -wrinkle!" - -When they reached the arête they had their last chance for -resting:--"Before us towered the escarpment of rugged red rocks and -above them the last heights of Le Cervin, the crest of which was -invisible. On both sides of the arête were blood-curdling abysses. -Seated on a narrow ridge, surrounded by precipices and near the scene -of one of the most tragic of Alpine accidents, we passed in silence -one of those moments that refuse to be forgotten. About a hundred -meters higher, on the steep slope, must have occurred the fall of the -four unfortunates who were dashed to pieces during the first ascent. I -tried to revisualize that dreadful drama. I failed; the abyss had -resumed its eternal silence. What meant to it the fall of those four -men, full of life, youth and intelligence? Only the least of the -avalanches that furrow it in a season." - -The two men roped themselves together, and using the extremest care to -get a foothold either in the ice or on bosses of the rock, they -mounted to the very edge of the vertical wall which measured the whole -height of the Cervin. The summit, says Javelle, is only the -culminating point of a sharp, notched arête about a hundred meters -long. On the south side is a frightful precipice out of sight. "It is -impossible to stand on the slender summit; its crest is too sharp and -the wind playing over it usually crowns it with needles of ice. With -his ax Knubel made a hole in the ice a little lower down. This was our -seat, and what monarch ever had such a throne? - -"All around the summit lay an immense bottomless void, above which -stood the circle of the giants of the Valais--Monte Rosa and her proud -rivals, the Mischabel, the Weisshorn, the Rothorn, La Dent Blanche; -then all the Alps with their maze of gigantic ramifications from the -Viso group to considerably beyond the Ortler, an innumerable army of -glittering or somber peaks, the immense undulating line of which was -lost in the blue at the two ends of the horizon. To the north extended -the unbroken profile of the Jura; then beyond, merging into the sky, -the hills of France toward the Haute-Champagne or the Franche-Comté." - -After half an hour on the peak, Javelle and his guide started back -and in safety reached the valley of Zermatt. Since then one might -almost say familiarity with that wonderful peak has bred contempt. -Javelle, himself, in a later article describing another ascent, -complains:--"To-day alas! for the true lovers of the Cervin, the whole -of this side of the noble mountain seems to be profaned." - -Already it has been planned to build a railway up Le Cervin. The day -of conquering mighty peaks in the Alps is past. Scarcely one is now -left for the adventurer to grapple with and the Alpine guides are -finding profitable fields in the vastly mightier mountains of the -Himalaya or the Canadian Rockies. - -For the old and the lazy, for delicate women, the electric cars that -climb Mont Blanc, and so many others of the Alpine mountains, give the -effect of the height and the enormous stretch of horizon; but still, -even though the Alpine Club builds shelters and attaches aerial -ladders and climbing chains, there is something exhilarating in the -actual climbing of lofty mountains, and that the danger is not wholly -eliminated is shown by the reports that come every summer of some -unfortunate parties who try to "negotiate" those jealous giants of the -skies. And when one is standing or sitting on one of their peaks -one can say with John Stuart Blackie:-- - - "I love the eye's free sweep from craggy rim; - I love the free bird poised at lofty ease - And the free torrent's far up-sounding hymn; - I love to leave my littleness behind - In the low vale where little cares are great." - -[Illustration: THE NEEDLE OF THE MATTERHORN.] - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -THE VALE OF CHAMONIX - - -We saw everything that there was to see at Zermatt--the relics of the -early climbers in the little museum; the pathetic graveyard where the -victims of their mad ambition are commemorated, and the Imfeld -relief-maps of the surrounding region. Here I had my first experience -in what one might call mountain-climbing by proxy; we took the -electric train up to the Gornergrat. Sir John Lubbock says:-- - -"It is impossible to give any idea in words of the beauty of these -high snow-fields. The gently curving surfaces, which break with abrupt -edges into dark abysses or sink gently to soft depressions or meet one -another in ridges, the delicate shadows in the curved hollows, the -lines of light on the crests, the suggestion of easy movement in the -forms, with the sensation of complete repose to the eye, the snowy -white with an occasional tinge of the most delicate pink, make up a -scene of which no picture or photograph can give more than a very -inadequate impression, and form an almost irresistible attraction to -all true lovers of nature." - -It is perfectly true: words fail to express one's feelings. - -Just earth and rocks and snow and ice and light and shade. What power -must have been exerted to squeeze those mighty strata and tip them up -and bend them over and hurl them against one another. Everything is -relative, and I find I can imagine what an ant might feel when -climbing over the furrows of a plowed field. The earth itself seems so -small when poised in the universe--just a microscopic atom, and the -mightiest mountains are only the wrinkles of an apple. Yet here we -were ten thousand feet above the sea with a vast panorama of mountains -on every side. More than a score of Horns, besides Jochs and Cime and -Grats and Gabeln; twenty of them are more than four thousand meters -high; Monte Rosa topping them all with her four thousand six hundred -and thirty-eight meters. Somehow mountains do not sound so high when -expressed in meters, but one does not belong to Metrical Societies -without being consistent! A dozen immense glaciers pour their -cracking, dazzling, monstrous streams of liquid solidity down, for -ever changing yet, like rivers of waters, for ever the same. Year -after year appear the great crevasses where the glacier tumbles over a -precipice and becomes a cataract of ice, yet remains the same. Verily -the mountains themselves, seen by the great eye of the Father of Time -are moving; he sees that the whole crest of the Alps is slowly moving -northward: this is proved by the fact that one side is steeper than -the other. - -It is rather amusing to see how many persons have been disgusted with -their first view of a glacier. They are covered, in many cases, with -mud, and look dirty and unkempt. They plow out the rocks; great -showers of boulders fall down on them, and especially where they have -flowed down to the melting level and begun to deposit their freight, -making what are called terminal moraines, they are not white and -glittering. But, seen from a distance, the glaciers of the high Alps -are most impressive. And to think that a very slight lowering of the -average temperature of the year would bring these great cold snaky -monsters over the habitations of men again. The ice-age might once -more be renewed and wipe out our civilization. - -While we were on the Gornergrat I saw and heard an avalanche. A -small snow-ball may start one. Roaring louder and louder with -thunderous echoes it hurls itself down the steep incline, and, like a -colossal, titanic bomb-shell, it bursts into the valley. The noise -made by a snow-slide from a steep roof is startling enough, but -imagine it multiplied a thousand times,--as if the top of the world -were tumbling. It is impossible to estimate the thousands of tons of -ice and snow that go dashing and crashing and smashing into the -valleys. It is Nature engaged in her slow but certain work of -destruction. The bombardment of the avalanches is one of the most -impressive phenomena in the mountains. - -[Illustration: ON THE GLACIER.] - -I do not know whether Tennyson ever climbed to the Gornergrat, but he -gives a picture of Monte Rosa which is well worth remembering:-- - - "I climbed the roofs at break of day; - Sun-smitten Alps before me lay, - I stood among the silent statues - And statued pinnacles, as mute as they. - - "How faintly flushed, how phantom fair - Was Monte Rosa hanging there - A thousand shadowy-penciled valleys - And snowy dells in the golden air." - -I had a pensive longing to spend the whole summer among this giant -Brotherhood of peaks, making excursions to one after another--provided -the weather allowed. From each summit, from each col and shoulder, -there would be a different aspect of mountain scenery; different -cloud-effects; different sunsets; different risks and different -escapes. I do not know how many chances there are of putting hundred -franc notes into the pockets of guides. But the zest of discovery is -gone; all climbing now is only imitation and repetition, and it is of -no use to regret the old days or to repine because one must turn one's -back on the possibilities of adventure. - -We returned as we came. As the train stopped at Stalden Will told me -of a wonderful excursion he had enjoyed the preceding year. He and two -German friends of his, one a professor, the other a doctor, had walked -up to Saas-Fee and ascended the Allalinhorn. - -"We had to go down, before we went up," said Will. "There is a bridge -which crosses the Matter-Visp, and after getting to the other side we -followed up through the Saastal by a path which gives you the most -enchanting pictures of tumbling water-falls. We spent the night at -Saas-Grund and the next morning early reached Saas-Fee, which, I -think, affords one of the finest views in Switzerland. The glacier -called the Fee is perfectly surrounded with magnificent peaks--I can't -remember half of them; but they are all from ten to thirteen thousand -feet high. The Alphubel is over fourteen thousand. We took guides and -went up the Allalinhorn. There were six of us roped together and it -was over snow all the way. The pass is nearly twelve thousand feet up, -and cold. But the view from the rounded summit well repaid us for our -pains. Directly across, so that one could almost leap it, is the -jagged peak of the Rimpfischhorn, its black dorsal fin sticking out of -the dazzling snow as ugly, though not so prominently uprising, as the -Matterhorn. Switzerland," he added, "for a little country has more ups -and downs in it than any other in the world." - - * * * * * - -At Visp our Moto was waiting for us. Some of the people whom we met -did not believe that we had been permitted to ascend the Rhône valley, -as it had been at one time closed to motor-cars. But either the report -of what the French are doing to attract wealthy travellers by building -_La route des Alpes_ wholly in French territory from Paris to Nice or -a realization of the direct loss of patronage caused by illiberal -motor-laws has changed some of the interpretations of them. In parts -of Switzerland it is perfectly justifiable to shut automobiles out. -Where the roads are narrow and are used largely by pedestrians or for -driving cattle and there is real danger it is probably for the -interest of the many for the few to be subjected to restraint. Even -the hotel-keepers of the Grisons and of the Bernese Oberland agree -that more are benefited by excluding motor-cars than by admitting -them, for there are a thousand that go by horses or on foot to every -hundred that come in automobiles. - -We had to go back to Martigny, and as we were so near we went to see -the Gorges du Trient. This is a colossal fissure from one hundred and -eighty to three hundred meters deep, and frequently not more than a -couple of meters across. The only access is by a wooden gallery nearly -half a mile long hung on iron cramps and supports, while far below -rushes the torrent with a deafening roar. - -From Martigny one follows a zigzagging road over the Col de la Forclaz -and then passes Argentière over the Col des Montets to Chamonix. The -chief feature is the Tête Noire which Miss Havergal, who climbed it, -declares "is a magnificent high level valley or gorge, winding for -four or five hours at a good height along mountains with as -picturesque a combination of heights and depths, rocks, torrents, -cascades, pine trees, ferns, flowers and precipices as exists -anywhere." - -For the first time on our trip we had trouble with the Moto. First one -of the front tires burst with a report that woke the echoes like a -gun. Then, when going down a long incline, the brakes caused so much -friction that we nearly got on fire; but by waiting for a while the -danger was passed and we reached Chamonix safely. - -The name of Chamonix, or, as the French spell it, Chamouni, is derived -from the Latin _campus munitus_, _champs muni_, the fortified field. -The earliest mention of the name in the modern form is found in an -atlas of 1595; but in 1091, Aymon, Count of Geneva, bestowed the -valley on the Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Michel de la Cluse; it was -then called by its Latin name. Three hundred years later a priory was -founded there, which, in the early part of the Sixteenth Century, came -into the jurisdiction of the Canons of Sallanches, who so maltreated -the peasantry that at last they rose in revolt, destroyed the -monastery and wrought their freedom. It was occasionally visited in -the Seventeenth Century, but in 1741 two Englishmen, Pococke and -Windham, with six others and five servants, went there from Geneva. -The feud between the Chamoniards and the monks of Sallanches had, in -some way, made people believe that the valley was inhabited by -brigands, and the Pococke-Windham party went armed and camped out in -the open air with sentinels posted. Their bravery is commemorated in -the "Englishmen's Stone," bearing their names and the date. The -following year Pierre Martel, the son of a Geneva shoemaker, hearing -about their wonderful adventures among the glaciers, was moved to see -them for himself. He wrote an account of his journey and for the first -time gave a name to Mont Blanc. What a pity he did not give a better -one! He set the fashion of visiting "the glaciers" and people began to -come more and more, to see them and to study them. - -The young scientist De Saussure was one of the first to make a study -of glacial action. Then, in 1762, the young Duc d'Enville made a study -of the glaciers of Savoy, and wrote an interesting account of them, -which may be found in the Annuaire du Club Alpin for 1893. Seventy -years later Professor Forbes began to make scientific studies of the -motion of the glaciers and was the first to discover that they were -really rivers of ice moving like other rivers, faster in the centre -than at the sides. He calculated that their daily progress was ten -inches near the top, twenty-five inches near the bottom, at the -centre, and sixteen inches at the sides. He discovered in the ice, -fragments of wood which were recognized as belonging to a ladder which -De Saussure had left at the upper end of the Mer de Glace in 1788. -They had been brought down five thousand meters in forty-five years. -In 1837 Louis Jean Rodolphe Agassiz, whom America claims as one of her -glories, though he was born on Lake Morat "In the pleasant Pays de -Vaud," read a paper before the Helvetic Society of Natural Sciences -meeting at Neuchâtel, in which he propounded the now-accepted theory. -As it was opposed he made tests of the motion of the glaciers at -Chamonix, at Zermatt and near the Grimsel-Pass. He spent a number of -years in this work, assisted by Count de Pourtalès and others. All -sorts of tests were made but the proof of time is absolutely -convincing. - -Thus in 1820 a party had reached the upper end of the Grand Plateau -and were just starting up the "ancien passage" when the snow on which -they were climbing began to slide. All of them were swept down to the -edge of the great crevasse which they had safely crossed a short time -before. Three of the guides were swallowed up in it. In 1861 the -remains of their bodies began to appear at the lower end of the -Glacier des Bossons, more than a kilometer from the place. Bits of -clothing, a cooked leg of mutton, a forearm with its hand came into -sight. One of the surviving guides was present when they were -discovered and exclaimed:--"Who would have thought I should once more -shake hands with my good comrade again!" These remains had travelled -more than one hundred and fifty meters a year for forty-one years. - -De Saussure's monument stands on the east bank of the Arve; Balmat's -on the other side, near the church. - -The valley of Chamonix is supposed to be due to glacial action. Those -who have studied it show that it is a part of the great folding up of -the Jurassic strata nipt in between crystalline rocks by the -tremendous lateral compression to which Switzerland was subjected as -the earth cooled and shrank. The Valais, the Urserental and the -region of the Vorder Rhein belong to the same cosmic cataclysm. - -[Illustration: "JAGGED NEEDLES AND PINNACLES OF CRUEL ROCK."] - -The great-great-grandchildren of that prehistoric glacier still -inhabit the mountain-valleys. The greatest of them is the Mer de -Glace, on which every visitor must set his foot. Farther up the valley -is l'Argentière, which stretches from side to side between the rugged -mighty ridges that lift themselves into fantastic jagged needles and -pinnacles of cruel rock. It is at least a hundred meters deep, and one -can look down into vivid blue crevasses and hear the rushing of the -ever-wearing waters far below. The five glaciers make the five streams -which the poets sing about. At one time the Glacier des Bois dammed -the Arve, but in time the persistent river cut through it, forming the -Passage des Tines, which has a height of one hundred and seventy -meters. The great erratic blocks of granite scattered through the -valley are mute witnesses of the ancient days. The eye that can read -will see all along the faces of the cliffs the hieroglyphics of the -ice. - -This is what William Cullen Bryant says about the Arve. By the way, I -noticed that while Coleridge pronounced it in two syllables, Shelley -gives it one. So does Bryant:-- - - "Not from the sands or cloven rocks, - Thou rapid Arve! thy waters flow; - Nor earth within its bosom locks - Thy dark, unfathomable wells below. - Thy springs are in the cloud, thy stream - Begins to move and murmur first - Where ice-peaks feel the noonday beam, - Or rain-storms on the glacier burst. - - "Born where the thunder and the blast, - And morning's earliest light are born, - Thou rushest swoln and loud and fast - By these low homes as if in scorn: - Yet humbler springs yield purer waves; - And brighter, glassier streams than thine, - Sent up from earth's unlighted caves, - With heaven's own beam and image shine. - - "Yet stay! for here are flowers and trees; - Warm rays on cottage roofs are here, - And laugh of girls and hum of bees,-- - Here linger till thy waves are clear. - Thou heedest not, thou hastest on; - From steep to steep thy torrent falls, - Till, mingling with the mighty Rhone, - It rests beneath Geneva's walls." - -"That expression, 'rests beneath Geneva's walls,' seems to me -singularly inappropriate," said I. "I did not know it rested -anywhere." - -"By the way," said Will, "it is a curious thing: almost all visitors -to the Rhône valley remember the river as a greyish muddy-looking -stream; yet it is true, for seven months of the year it runs with a -clear current, of a greenish colour very much like Niagara's. I -suppose it does its work of disintegration mainly in the summer, when -it has the help of the sun." - -Chamonix, which so short a time ago was almost a lost valley, is now -the very centre of the mercenary traffic in Nature's most marvellous -mysteries. One may reach dizzy heights now by the railway, and there -are restaurants a mile above the sea. - -My nephew happened to be personally acquainted with M. Fidèle Eugster, -whose fertile brain devised a scheme for building solid pylons over -which should run an aerial line from Chamonix up to the Aiguille du -Midi, three thousand eight hundred and forty-two meters--only a little -less than nine hundred and sixty-five meters less than the monarch -himself. He happened to be there himself and he invited Will and me to -ride up as far as the construction-car went. Ruth contented herself -with watching us and taking a walk about town. The car, seating twenty -persons, starts from Chamonix and swings up two thousand meters over -the twenty-seven of these immense pylons already constructed. They -are from twenty-five to seventy-five meters apart. The power-station, -where there are electric motors of seventy-five horse-power each, is -near Pierre Pointue at a height of one thousand six hundred and -seventy-nine meters. From there over twenty-four more pylons a cable -one thousand four hundred meters long took us to the foot of the -Aiguille. There we got into a smaller basket-car and were swung up to -a protogen pinnacle directly opposite the Grands Mulets. From there we -were taken to the first tension-pylon which breaks the enormous -stretch to the Col du Midi, where the terminal station will be -constructed. It is a tremendous swoop of between eight and nine -hundred meters and the last stathmos will be nearly six hundred more. -The car glissades down the curves; then the cable pulls it up the -incline. It is like a series of gigantic scallops but there is no -shock, no jar; only a clicking as you pass the pylons. - -Next to my flight in the hydro-aeroplane this was the greatest -experience of my life. What can I say of that swoop through the air? -Words utterly fail. Below lay the valley with its thickly clustered -hotels and houses and the ramifications of the rushing rivers and -streams like veins in a dissected hand. Below us lay the glacier with -its séracs diminished to etchings. All around rose the haughty -Brotherhood scornfully watching the machinations of puny, -mighty-minded man. They know that they can sometimes catch him -napping, but only his body can they hurt. His soul is bigger and -grander than their icy hearts. They can fling down avalanches and hurl -enormous boulders or bullet-like stones at him, tearing themselves to -pieces in their blind fury to do so, but here he is above them. They -can't shake off the shackles which his genius and his power fasten to -their gigantic frames. Atlas must bear the Earth on his shoulders and -there is no Perseus to relieve him of the weight. - -Compared to the cost of some of the other Swiss roads this aerial line -is comparatively inexpensive. It has been estimated that twenty-four -million francs will build it and equip it. Its success will doubtless -cause other "inaccessible peaks" to be harnessed in the same way. All -the difficulty and most of the danger--I suppose one might be struck -by lightning or die of heart-failure on the way up--and a vast amount -of time, will be eliminated. - -While we were in the valley we had a most glorious sunset. I will not -attempt to describe the indescribable; there are no terms to -differentiate the tints that glowed on the clouds and the shades of -lavender and violet and royal purple. There is nothing more impressive -than to see the outburst of cloud masses from a mountain-valley rising -dark and stormy and then, as it were, putting on the panoply of their -royal state--furnished them by their servant the sun. I recalled -Moore's poem on Mont Blanc at sunset:-- - - "'Twas at this instant--while there glowed - This last, intensest gleam of light-- - Suddenly thro' the opening road - The valley burst upon my sight! - That glorious valley with its lake - And Alps on Alps in clusters swelling, - Mighty and pure and fit to make - The ramparts of a godhead's dwelling. - - "I stood entranced--as rabbins say. - This whole assembled, gazing world - Will stand upon that awful day - When the ark's light aloft unfurled - Among the opening clouds shall shine - Divinity's own radiant sign! - - "Mighty Mont Blanc, thou wert to me - That minute, with thy brow in heaven, - As sure a sign of deity - As e'er to mortal gaze was given. - Nor ever, were I destined yet - To live my life twice o'er again, - Can I the deep-felt awe forget, - The dream, the trance that rapt me then." - -We went through the paces demanded of visitors to the valley. We made -excursions to the Glacier des Bossons especially to see the little -lake which so exquisitely mirrors Mont Blanc--so detestible the -artificial ruins which insult its beauty!--we even paid our franc to -penetrate the artificial grotto in the ice--and we went as far as the -Cascade du Dard. We went also to Flegère for the sake of its -extraordinary panoramic view; but I thought best of all was the -Brévent which faces so closely the whole range. - -We reluctantly left the wonderful valley and returned to Lausanne by -the way of Cluses, where we had our watches set, thence across to -Bonneville, down to Geneva and along the lake. We were warmly welcomed -by the three children who, however, had been well looked after by the -trustworthy French bonne. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -HANNIBAL IN SWITZERLAND - - -A few days later Will and I got to talking about the ancient passages -of the Alps. Hannibal's was the first. We got out a copy of Polybius -and read the simple narrative of that almost incredible expedition. -Polybius, who was present at the destruction of Carthage, had probably -a fairly accurate knowledge of his subject; but to this day it has not -been absolutely decided where the great Carthaginian crossed the Alps. -One man believes he went by the Little Mont Cenis; a Frenchman argued -that he descended into Italy by the Col de la Seigne; but the most -convincing argument, that put forward by William John Law, fixes the -route as from Roquemaure, where he crossed the Rhône, up to Vienne by -Bourgoin, the Mont du Chat, Constans, Bourg Saint-Maurice, thence over -the Little Saint-Bernard to Aoste into Italy. - -We read some of the passages describing the difficulties of the -route, attempted so late in the season. This is what Polybius says:-- - -"Hannibal, having arrived upon the Rhône, straightway set about -affecting the passage where the river ran in a single stream, being -encamped at a distance of nearly four days' journey from the sea.... - -"By this time a crowd of the barbarians was collected on the opposite -shore for the purpose of preventing the passage of the Carthaginians. -Looking well at these, and considering from existent circumstances -that it would neither be possible to force a passage in the face of so -numerous an enemy nor to keep his position without expecting the enemy -upon him from all sides, Hannibal, as the third night was coming on, -sent off a division of the army under command of Hanno, son of the -King Bomilcar, joining to them natives of the country as guides. - -"After marching up the river for a distance of two hundred stadia and -coming to a place where it is divided into two branches around an -island, they halted there; and, having got timber from a neighboring -forest, they soon fitted out a number of rafts, sufficient for their -purpose, partly by framing the timbers together, partly by tying them. -On these they were safely ferried over.... - -"As the fifth night came on, the division which had already crossed -the river pushed forward about the morning watch, against the -barbarians, who were opposite to the Carthaginian army. Hannibal now, -having his soldiers all ready, was intent on the work of crossing, -having filled the barges with the light-shielded cavalry; and the -canoes with the lightest of the infantry.... - -"The barbarians, seeing the purpose of their enemies, rushed out from -their entrenchments in a disorderly and confused manner, persuaded -that they could readily prevent the landing of the Carthaginians. But -Hannibal, as soon as he perceived that his own troops were already -coming down on the farther side, for they gave signal of their -approach by smoke, as had been agreed upon, at once ordered all to -embark, and for the managers of the ferry-boats to make all possible -headway against the current. - -"This being speedily done, and the men in the boats working with keen -rivalry and shouting and striving against the force of the current, -... the barbarians in front raised their war-song and their -challenges. The scene was one of terror and of incitement to the -conflict. - -"At this moment the Carthaginians, who had first crossed to that side -of the river, suddenly and unexpectedly appeared among the tents of -the barbarians, which had been left vacant. Some set fire to the -encampment; while the majority rushed upon those that were guarding -the passage of the river. In view of an event so utterly unexpected -the barbarians ran, some to protect their tents, others to resist the -assailants, and fought with them. Hannibal, now that everything had -succeeded in accordance with his plan, straightway drew up those that -had first got across, encouraged them, and engaged in battle with the -barbarians. The Gauls, from their lack of order and the strangeness of -all that had taken place, soon turned and betook themselves to -headlong flight. - -"The Carthaginian general having conquered both the passage and his -enemies, immediately attended to the transport of those that still -remained on the other shore.... - -"The transport of the elephants was effected in the following -manner:--Having constructed a number of rafts, they strongly joined -together two of these, so as to fit closely one with the other, and -planted both firmly in the shore at the place of embarcation, the two -together being about fifty feet wide. Then, joining other rafts -together in the same way, they attached these to the former at the -outer end, carrying the fabric of the bridge forward in the line of -passage; and, that the whole structure might not be carried down the -river, the side that was against the stream they secured by cables -from the land, fastened to some trees which grew on the brink. When -they had thrown out this bridge to the length of two plethra [sixty -meters] altogether, they added at the end two rafts constructed more -perfectly than the others and the largest of all. These were bound -with great strength to each other; but to the rest in such a way that -the fastenings could be easily severed. To these they fixed a number -of towing-lines with which the barges were to prevent their being -carried down the river, and hold them by force against the stream, to -take over the elephants upon them and land them upon the other side. - -"After this, they dug up and brought a quantity of earth to all the -rafts, and spread it till it was level with, and looked just like, the -road that led over the dry land to the crossing-place. The elephants -were used always to obey the Indians as far as the edge of the water, -but never as yet had ventured to go into the water. They brought them, -therefore, along this bank of earth, putting two females first; and -the beasts obeyed them. As soon as they had got them on to the -farthest rafts, they cut away the fastenings by which these were -fitted to the rest, and, pulling on the two lines with the barges, -they soon carried away the beasts and the rafts which bore them from -the earthy pier. At this the animals, quite confounded, turned about -and rushed in every direction; but, surrounded on every side by the -stream, they shrank from it, and were compelled to stay where they -were; and, in this way, the two rafts being brought back repeatedly, -most of the elephants were brought over upon them. But some, through -fright, leaped into the river half-way across; and it happened that -all the Indians belonging to these were lost, but the elephants were -saved, for, with the power and size of their probosces, raising them -out of the water and breathing through them and spouting up all that -got into them, they held out, making their way for the most part erect -below the water...." - -Polybius goes on to tell how Hannibal, having got his forces across, -marched up into the mountains by the valley of the Rhône and then -began the ascent of the Alps. The Allobroges seized the heights. -Polybius says:-- - -"The Carthaginian general, aware that the barbarians had preoccupied -the posts of vantage, encamped his army in front of the heights and -waited there; then he sent forward some of the Gauls who were acting -as guides, in order that they might spy into the designs of the enemy -and their whole plan. - -"When these men had executed all that was arranged, the general, -learning that the enemy steadily kept to their post and watched the -passes through the day, but that they went to their repose at night in -a neighboring town; acting conformably to that state of things, -contrived this scheme:--he put his force in motion and led them -forward openly and, when he had come near to the difficult places, he -pitched his camp not far from the enemy; but, when night came on, he -ordered fires to be kindled, and left the greater part of his troops, -and, having lightly armed the most efficient men, he made his way -through the defiles in the night and took possession of the positions -previously held by the enemy; the barbarians having retired to the -town as they were in the habit of doing. - -"This had all been done before day came on, and, when the barbarians -saw what had happened, they at first abstained from any attack; but -later, when they observed the crowd of beasts of burden and the -cavalry winding out from the defile with much difficulty and in a -long-drawn column, they were encouraged to close in upon the line of -march. As the barbarians made their attacks in many places, a great -loss ensued to the Carthaginians, chiefly among the horses and beasts -of burden, yet not so much from the enemy as from the nature of the -ground; for, as the pass was not only narrow and rugged, but also -precipitous, at every moment and at every shock numbers of the -pack-animals fell with their loads over the cliffs. The shock was -caused chiefly by the wounded horses, for some of them, in the panic -made by their wounds, dashed against the baggage-animals, others with -a rush forward knocked over everything that came in their way in this -difficult passage, and completed the immense confusion. - -"Hannibal, observing this, and reflecting that, even though the troops -should escape, the loss of their baggage would certainly be attended -with the ruin of the army, advanced to their aid with the detachment -that had occupied the heights during the night. As he made his assault -from higher ground, he destroyed many of the enemy; but not without -suffering equally in return, for the disorder of the march was much -increased by the conflict and clamor of these fresh troops. But, when -the greater part of the Allobroges had perished in the conflict, and -the rest had been compelled to flee for shelter to their homes, then, -only, did the remainder of the beasts of burden and the cavalry -succeed with great toil and difficulty in emerging from the pass." - -Hannibal seized the town and procured a vast quantity of horses and -beasts of burden and captives, as well as corn and cattle, sufficient -to maintain his army for several days, and he inspired great fear in -all the neighbouring tribes. - -When the army began to advance again, the tribesmen came to meet him -with green branches and wreaths, as a sign of amity, and they brought -with them a plentiful supply of sheep and goats for food. Hannibal, -though inclined to be suspicious, still took them for guides and -followed them into a still more difficult region. He had good reason -for his suspicions, for, as they were passing through a narrow defile -where there was very bad footing and steep precipices, they made a -sudden attack upon his troops. The pack-animals and the cavalry were -in the van; heavy-armed troops guarded the rear, and attack from that -quarter was easily resisted; but the natives, as usual, climbed up the -precipices above them and rolled down boulders and flung stones which -made fearful havoc. - -Hannibal was compelled by this action of the enemy to spend the night -near what Polybius calls to _leukópetron_, The White Rock. Now, not -far from Bourg-Saint-Maurice, where we had passed so recently, stands -a high rock of gypsum, and it is called to this day La Roche Blanche. -Here, in all probability, Hannibal kept guard while during the night -the horses and pack-animals with enormous difficulty filed out of the -valley. Polybius says:-- - -"On the following day, the enemy having retired, Hannibal joined -forces with the cavalry and led forward to the summit of the Alpine -pass, no longer meeting with any organized body of the barbarians, but -here and there more or less harassed by them, losing a few -pack-animals from the rear or from the van when the natives seized an -opportunity to dash at them. The elephants rendered Hannibal the -greatest service, for, in whatever part of the line they appeared, the -enemy dared not approach, being astounded at the strange look of the -beasts." - -By this time it was late in the season and the snow was deep on the -mountains; and the soldiers, worn out by their terrible toils and the -hardships to which they were subjected, were completely disheartened. -Like Napoleon and all the great leaders of men, however, Hannibal knew -how to play on their emotions and he cheered them by telling them that -just below lay Italy and just beyond lay Rome, their ancient enemy. - -But the descent was even more difficult than the way up. The snow had -fallen and rendered the path over the névé extremely slippery; it was -impossible to proceed. So they had to encamp on the mountain ridge, -and, in order to widen the road, he engaged his whole force in -building up the precipice. - -"Thus," says the historian, "in one day he completed a passage -suitable for horses and baggage-animals, so that, carrying these -through at once, and pitching his camp about parts which had as yet -escaped the snow, he forwarded the army to the pastures. He brought -out the Numidians in successive squads to help in building the road, -and it took three days of great difficulty and suffering to get the -elephants through. They had come to be in a wretched state by reason -of hunger, for the higher points of the Alps, and the parts which -reach up to the heights, are utterly without trees and bare, because -of the snow remaining constantly summer and winter; but, as the parts -along the middle of the mountain-side produced both trees and bushes, -they are quite habitable." - -[Illustration: "THE SNOW WAS DEEP ON THE MOUNTAINS."] - -At last, however, after about two weeks in the mountains, they reached -the plain of the Po. Livy tells us that Hannibal himself confessed to -having lost, from the time he crossed the Rhône, thirty-six thousand -men and innumerable horses and other cattle. How many he brought with -him into Italy is not known. An exaggerated estimate makes it a -hundred thousand infantry and twenty-five thousand cavalry; but it -was, perhaps, a third of that number. - -The Roman poet, Silius Italicus, who lived in Vergil's house, but not -in his immortality, died just a hundred years after Christ. His -verse-history, "Punica," has come down to us complete. He too gives a -description of Hannibal's wonderful journey:-- - - "Lone Winter dwells upon those summits drear - And guards his mansion round the endless year. - Mustering from far around his grisly form - Black rains and hailstone-showers and clouds of storm. - Here in their wrathful kingdom whirlwinds roam - And fierce blasts struggle in their Alpine home. - The upward sight a swimming darkness shrouds - And the high crags recede into the clouds.... - O'er jagged heights and icy fragments rude - Thus climb they mid the mountain solitude; - And from the rocky summits, haggard, show - Their half-wild visage, clotted thick with snow. - Continual drizzlings of the drifting air - Scar their rough cheeks and stiffen in their hair. - Now poured from craggy dens, a headlong force, - The Alpine hordes hang threatening on their course; - Track the known thickets, beat the mountain-snow, - Bound o'er the steeps and, hovering, hem the foe. - Here changed the scene; the snows were crimsoned o'er; - The hard ice trickled to the tepid gore. - With pawing hoof the courser delved the ground - And rigid frost his clinging fetlock bound: - Nor yet his slippery fall the peril ends; - The fracturing ice the bony socket rends. - Twelve times they measured the long light of day - And night's bleak gloom and urged thro' wounds their way; - Till on the topmost ridge their camp was flung - High o'er the steepy crags, in airy distance hung." - -"What do you think of that for poetry?" I asked Ruth, and she replied -that she did not wonder it was not given to school-boys to study. - -"Whose is the translation?" she asked. - -"Sir Charles Abraham Elton. But is it fair to melt up a golden, or -even a brazen wine-cup and then recast it in an entirely different -form and call it a piece of Roman antiquity? That is what these stiff -and formal so-called heroic pentameters do with the flowing hexameters -of the original." - - * * * * * - -"I should like to go to the Saint-Bernard," I remarked. - -"It can be easily arranged," said my nephew and, as usual, in answer -to my wishes came the realization. Instead of describing my own not -especially eventful visit to the hospice,--though I could write a -rhapsody about the noble dogs, one of whom had only a short time -before made a notable rescue of a young American who had wandered off -by himself, got lost and nearly perished,--I will give Rogers's vivid -poetic picture. The poet, in his deliberate blank verse, thus pays his -respects to the monks:-- - - "Night was again descending, when my mule, - That all day long had climbed among the clouds, - Higher and higher still, as by a stair - Let down from heaven itself, transporting me, - Stopt, to the joy of both, at that low door, - That door which ever, as self-opened, moves - To them that knock, and nightly sends abroad - Ministering Spirits. Lying on the watch, - Two dogs of grave demeanor welcomed me, - All meekness, gentleness, though large of limb; - And a lay-brother of the Hospital, - Who, as we toiled below, had heard by fits - The distant echoes gaining on his ear, - Came and held fast my stirrup in his hand - While I alighted. Long could I have stood, - With a religious awe contemplating - That House, the highest in the Ancient World, - And destined to perform from age to age - The noble service, welcoming as guests - All of all nations and of every faith; - A temple sacred to Humanity! - It was a pile of simplest masonry, - With narrow windows and vast buttresses, - Built to endure the shocks of time and chance; - Yet showing many a rent, as well it might, - Warred on for ever by the elements, - And in an evil day, nor long ago, - By violent men--when on the mountain-top - The French and Austrian banners met in conflict. - On the same rock beside it stood the church, - Reft of its cross, not of its sanctity; ... - And just below it in that dreary dale, - If dale it might be called, so near to heaven, - A little lake, where never fish leaped up, - Lay like a spot of ink amid the snow; - A star, the only one in that small sky, - On its dead surface glimmering. 'Twas a place - Resembling nothing I had left behind, - As if all worldly ties were now dissolved;-- - And, to incline the mind still more to thought, - To thought and sadness, on the Eastern shore - Under a beetling cliff stood half in gloom - A lonely chapel destined for the dead, - For such as having wandered from their way, - Had perished miserably. Side by side, - Within they lie, a mournful company, - All in their shrouds, no earth to cover them; - Their features full of life yet motionless - In the broad day, nor soon to suffer change, - Though the barred windows, barred against the wolf, - Are always open!--But the North blew cold; - And bidden to a spare but cheerful meal, - I sate among the holy Brotherhood - At their long board. The fare indeed was such - As is prescribed on days of abstinence, - But might have pleased a nicer taste than mine; - And through the floor came up, an ancient crone - Serving unseen below; while from the roof - (The roof, the floor, the walls of native fir) - A lamp hung flickering, such as loves to fling - Its partial light on Apostolic heads, - And sheds a grace on all. Theirs Time as yet - Has changed not. Some were almost in the prime; - Nor was a brow o'ercast. Seen as they sate - Ranged round their ample hearth-stone in an hour - Of rest they were as gay, as far from guile, - As children; answering, and at once, to all - The gentler impulses, to pleasure, mirth; - Mingling at intervals with rational talk - Music; and gathering news from them that came, - As of some other world. But when the storm - Rose and the snow rolled on in ocean-waves, - When on his face the experienced traveler fell, - Sheltering his lips and nostrils with his hands, - Then all was changed; and sallying with their pack - Into that blank of Nature, they became - Unearthly beings. 'Anselm, higher up, - Just where it drifts, a dog howls loud and long, - And now, as guided by a voice from Heaven, - Digs with his feet. That noble vehemence - Whose can it be but his who never erred? - A man lies underneath! Let us to work! - But who descends Mont Velan? 'Tis La Croix. - Away, away! If not, alas, too late. - Homeward he drags an old man and a boy, - Faltering and falling and but half-awaked, - Asking to sleep again.' Such their discourse. - Oft has a venerable roof received me; - Saint-Bruno's once--where, when the winds were hushed, - Nor from the cataract the voice came up, - You might have heard the mole work underground, - So great the stillness there; none seen throughout, - Save when from rock to rock a hermit crossed - By some rude bridge--or one at midnight tolled - To matins, and white habits, issuing forth, - Glided along those aisles interminable, - All, all observant of the sacred law - Of Silence. Nor in this sequestered spot, - Once called 'Sweet Waters,' now 'The Shady Vale,' - To me unknown; that house so rich of old, - So courteous, and by two that passed that way, - Amply requited with immortal verse, - The Poet's payment.--But, among them all, - None can with this compare, the dangerous seat - Of generous, active Virtue. What tho' Frost - Reign everlastingly and ice and snow - Thaw not, but gather--there is that within - Which, where it comes, makes Summer; and in thought - Oft am I sitting on the bench beneath - Their garden-plot, where all that vegetates - Is but some scanty lettuce, to observe - Those from the South ascending, every step - As tho' it were their last,--and instantly - Restored, renewed, advancing as with songs, - Soon as they see, turning a lofty crag, - That plain, that modest structure, promising - Bread to the hungry, to the weary rest." - -[Illustration: THE HOSPICE OF THE GREAT ST. BERNARD.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -ZÜRICH - - -One morning Ruth brought me my mail. Among the letters was one with -the postmark Zürich. The superscription was written in a very -individual hand, every letter carefully formed. There is a great deal -in the claim made that handwriting is an index of character. -Preciseness shows in it; the artistic temperament is betrayed by -little flourishes; sincerity, craftiness, other virtues, other -weaknesses. I knew in a moment that this letter was from my -steamer-friend, Professor Landoldt. It was written in delightfully -understandable yet amusingly erratic English and asked me to come and -make him a visit. It was his "vacancies" and he and Frau Landoldt -would be entirely at my service to show me the city and its -"surroundabouts." If I should be coming "by the train-up" he would -meet me "by the station." - -It fell in admirably with my plans. Will said that he would send me -over in the Moto; he had some writing to do, else he would go along; -but he and Ruth would come for me at the end of my visit, and, if the -Professor and the Frau Professorin would like to join us, they would -take us to the Dolomites over one of the new routes just opened to -motor-vehicles. - -What could have been kinder? The last part of the proposition I gladly -accepted, but as long as I should have to go alone I thought it best -to go by train, and taking it leisurely, stop here and there on my -way. So I wrote Professor Landoldt that I would be with him in a week. -I provided myself with one of those "abonnement-tickets" which are -good for a fortnight of unlimited travel at a cost of only $18.50 and -allow one to cover almost all the roads of the country--twenty-eight -hundred miles--if one should so desire. My photograph was duly pasted -in, my signature appended, and I was armed and equipped. - -I went first to Yverdon, enjoying the fine view of the Jura, and -following with an eager eye the windings of the Thièle River, which -here proclaims itself the legitimate child of the Orbe and the Talent; -such a parentage assuring beauty. I stopped long enough there to visit -the famous convent built by Duke Conrad of Zähringen before the -middle of the Twelfth Century and nearly eight hundred years later -famous as the scene of Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi's epoch-making -school, after he had been driven from one place to another by -jealousies and misunderstandings. It is still used as a -school-building. Pestalozzi is kept in memory of the inhabitants by a -monument near the railway station. Here, as in many other places, -there are interesting remains of the ancient Roman occupation. - -Only two miles beyond--and those two miles offering an enchanting view -down the Lake of Neuchâtel--is the famous town of Grandson. As the -Swiss railway-ticket allows perfect freedom both of passage and of -stop-off, I spent the time between two trains in visiting the château -of Baron de Blonay, which has a wide view, and the castle that gives -its name to the place. It was built in the year 1000, probably just -after it was generally decided that the world was not coming to an end -immediately. Here took place the great battle which all Switzerland -commemorates. - -First it was captured in 1475 by the Bernese; then recaptured by -Charles the Bold, of Burgundy. Then on March 3, 1476, the duke was -surprised and completely annihilated. Hughes de Pierre, of the -Chapter of Neuchâtel, who was an eye-witness, tells the story of it in -his chronicle:-- - -[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF NEUCHÂTEL.] - -"At the first blow the castel of Valmarcus fell into the hands of the -Burgundian. As soon as Count Rudolphe learned of it he sent the -archers of Rhentelin and a part of our men to guard Pontareuse; all -the other men from the country were thrown into Boutry and all along -the Areuse, on the farther bank, likewise those of Valengin and -Landeron. Nor must we forget seven boat-loads of gentlemen (_gens de -bien_) who came from Vully, Cerlier and Bonneville--all of these -worthy people (_bons enfans_) arriving before Neuchâtel were welcomed -by the townspeople and immediately two Chevaliers des Ligues, together -with the notable councillors of the city and others, were taken from -the said barques straight to the Abbey of Bevaix; a part were lodged -there; a part at Chastelard, Cortailloud and at Pontareuse. - -"When this had taken place the allies, purposing to bring aid and -deliverance to their friends at Grandson, arrived at Neuchâtel in -great spirits, with songs of joy and a formidable array, all of them -men of martial appearance, fear-inspiring and yet good to see. -Immediately on being informed by our men of the disloyalty and -cruelty of the duke and the miserable condition of the brave people of -Grandson (this report going from mouth to mouth from the first to the -last) the said Messieurs des Ligues put on such furious frowns of -indignation that no words could express it, all swearing (chevaliers -and the rest) that their brothers by life and blood should be avenged -without delay and that they would not lose any time for refreshment or -rest in the city, but they instantly went to lodge in Auvermé, -Corcelle, Cormondrèche, Basle, Colombier, Boudry, Cortaillonds, Bevaix -and neighboring places, given aid and welcome everywhere in the -county. Then followed the _bandière_ of the city with those of the -bourgeoisie who remained there (the most eager having already taken -their positions on the Areuse and the Boudry, where they were close -together). - -"And the day being the second of March, the companies (_bandons_) -being assembled in warlike order, the Messieurs des Ligues before -sunrise on the plain between Boudry and Bevaix resolved to dash -immediately at the Burgundian without waiting longer for the -_bandières_ of Zürich and the horsemen who were late and not as yet -arrived at Neuchâtel. - -"On the other side, and at the same hour, Duke Charles advanced with -great noise of trumpets and clarions. Those of Schwyz, Thun and others -(whose names we can not easily recall) started forth above Valmarcus. -The _bandières_ of Soleure, Bern, Lucerne, Fribourg, and that of -Neuchâtel which included three hundred citizens and more, as well as -that of Landeron and the _hommes royés_ of M. de Langern, led straight -to the plain; those of Siebenthal, Unterwald, Morat, Biel and others -followed the shore of the lake. - -"Soon before the battle-line of the Ligues the Burgundian troops -superbly accoutered came forth; there was found the duke with his most -trusty cavaliers. Soon the charge was made; soon Les Chartreux de la -Lance were crushed and overthrown. After this attack the Ligues, -spying all the swarming crowd (_formilière_) of the Burgundians near -Concize, planted their pikes and banners in the ground, and with one -accord, falling on their knees, asked the favor of their mighty God. - -"The duke, seeing this act, swore: 'By Saint George these dogs are -crying mercy. Cannoniers, fire on those villains!' - -"But all his words were of no avail. The Ligues like hail (_gresles_) -fell upon his men, slashing, thrusting those handsome gallants on all -sides. So well and so completely discomfited all along the route were -those poor Burgundians that they were scattered like smoke borne away -by the wind." - -Other chroniclers tell of the defeat of the duke and the brave deeds -of the allies, and how the duke's horsemen tried to escape but were -run down by the infantry and many were killed. Another tells how the -sun dazzled them as from a mirror and how the trumpet of Ury bellowed -and the horns of Lucerne sent forth such terrible sounds that the -people of the Duke of Burgundy were seized with terror and fled. The -duke tried to stop them, but it was all in vain; they abandoned their -camp, and all its treasures fell into the hands of the allies. - -These contemporary accounts are all more or less full of inaccuracies; -it is well known now exactly how the battle took place and how the -Burgundian army of about fifty thousand with five hundred pieces of -artillery was so completely defeated. - -The mere facts were these. On Feb. 18, 1476, the Duke Charles -assaulted Grandson; on the twenty-eighth the garrison surrendered and -the next day were all massacred. On the same day the duke went to the -Château of Vaulxmarcus (now Vaumarcus). Its master, Messire de -Neuchâtel, surrendered, throwing himself on his knees and begging to -be allowed to retire with his garrison of forty. The duke kept the -baron but let the garrison go, who were wildly indignant at not having -been allowed to fight. The forty scattered and spread the news, and -that brought the allies together. The duke had an impregnable -position, but the Swiss, by making a feint of attacking Vaulxmarcus, -tried to draw him out. Had he not lacked provisions for so formidable -an army, he might have resisted, but he had to advance on Neuchâtel, -and the sudden attack of the confederates, who numbered only between -twenty and twenty-five thousand men, was irresistible. Many of the -Swiss cities possess relics of this great victory, which is the one -great event for the Cantons to exult over and no doubt did much to -prepare the way for the future Confederacy. At Soleure one sees the -costume of Charles's court jester. Lucerne has the great seal of -Burgundy. At the University Library at Geneva are miniatures which -belonged to the duke. - -If the Duke of Brunswick left twenty million francs to Geneva,--and, -by the way, the heirs of his illegitimate daughter are trying to get -it away from the town,--Neuchâtel had a benefactor in David de Purry, -who left four and a half millions, and he also has a statue. I did -not stop to look into the Municipal Museum, but I took the train to -the top of the Chaumont, which gives a fine bird's-eye view of the -city, the lake, and the whole range of the Alps. - -I crossed the lake from Neuchâtel to Morat. The lake is a little less -than eight kilometers long and is about one hundred and fifty-three -meters deep. It connects with the Lake of Bienne by a stream tamed to -service. It connects by the Broye with the Lake of Morat, which is -like a family reduced in circumstances. It once washed the walls of -the ancient city of Aventicum, capital of the Helvetii, and after the -Romans captured it, a city of large importance. Both lake and town -have shrunk. The lake is about as long as the Lake of Neuchâtel is -wide, and the town, now Avenches, lives in its past. Omar Khayyâm -would have found a topic for a poem in the solitary Corinthian column -from the temple of Apollo standing nearly twelve meters high and -serving only as the support for a family of storks most respectable as -far as their antiquity is concerned. - -Avenches is only about a mile from Morat. It has been called a modern -Pompeii. Under the auspices of the Society for the Preservation of -Roman Antiquities it has been more or less thoroughly investigated and -archeologized, and one may stand in the very forum where perhaps Cæsar -stood. - -From Morat I came up to Fribourg, which, to me, was so interesting -that I should have liked to stay there a week. In the old days it must -have made a natural castle standing on its acropolis almost surrounded -by the Sarine River. Indeed, some of the medieval walls and towers are -still left to bespeak its military prestige. Ancient churches make it -picturesque. That of Saint Nicholas was begun about a hundred years -after the town was founded; it has wonderful stained-glass windows, -dating back to the Fourteenth Century, carved stalls, and a glorious -organ with seven thousand eight hundred pipes. I was fortunate enough -to be there while the organist was playing. But most church organs are -out of tune. Variations of temperature so easily affect the pipes. - -I was pleased to know that the Catholic Bishop of Lausanne resides in -Fribourg, which, indeed, is largely a Catholic town. The ancient -linden-tree on the Place de l'Hotel-de-Ville would have delighted Dr. -Oliver Wendell Holmes, who was always measuring big trunks. This is -more than four meters in circumference, and, like every other big -tree, it traces its pedigree back to a tiny slip stuck into the -ground. It was brought by the young Freiburger, who, having run all -the way from Morat, announced the news of the great battle there in -1476 by crying "Victory" and falling dead of his wounds and -exhaustion. Probably Pheidippides brought a willow wand which grew -into a monstrous tree. - -The great suspension bridges also are worth seeing, and every -vantage-point has a magnificent view. - -Bern was my next objective point. I delighted in the quaint old -arcaded streets made under the grey stone houses with their green -Venetian shutters, and in the Sixteenth-Century fountains. An -abundance of water is one of the most blessed gifts of the gods. I put -up at the Bernerhof Hotel and spent a day "seeing the sights." - -Bern was founded by Berthold V of Zähringen in the Twelfth Century, -the same Berthold that built Fribourg. Legend makes it out that he -named his new city after the quarry of his favourite priest. This -proved to be a bear. He spoke his will in a rhyme: - - "Holtz, lass dich hauen gern, - Die Stadt muss heissen Bern." - -[Illustration: AN OLD STREET IN BERN.] - -Whether the name came from the legend or the legend from the name is a -question no man can decide. The bear is seen on every city shield, and -those that once ornamented the city-gates are now penned in the -Historical Museum. The bears also come out automatically on the famous -Zeitglockenturm. The real bears in the pits--which are pits--are said -to be lineal descendants of a cub brought back from a hunt by Berthold -himself, or, as others have it, from a pair given him by René, Duc de -Lorraine. In 1798 General Brune carried them off to Paris and put them -in the Jardin des Plantes, but they were so homesick that they were -returned. - -"Noble animals," exclaimed a friend of mine, "fed and pampered as they -deserve to be, for they brought good fortune to the triumphant Bernese -at Donnerbrühl and at Laupen. Established like real kings under the -fir-tree, they seem to look up at us with disdain--at us feeble -creatures who gaze at their mighty muscles and at their indomitable -eyes!" - -A statue to Rudolf von Erlach, the hero of Laupen, is one of the -ornaments of the city. Saint Christopher also used to have a wooden -statue; it was supposed to guard the silver communion-service, but the -plate was stolen again and again, and so he was banished to a niche -in the tower that bears his name, and, as he faced the David fountain, -he acquired the nickname of Goliath, and, if tradition tells the -truth, which I would never dare deny, whenever the town clock struck -twelve he used to rain _Weckli_, or little cakes, on the people. In -order to make the legend true it is said that a rich lady ordered this -miracle to be performed. She lived to be a hundred, and, when she died -in 1857, the Cathedral chimes were rung in her honour. A statue of -Saint Christopher also stands now in the Museum--a relic of the day -when Bern was mostly built of wood, as was indicated in the duke's -couplet. - -I shall not attempt to tell all I saw in Bern; it would fill a volume; -besides, I have reserved the fine old city for at least a year in one -of my future reincarnations. Bern is the capital of the Swiss -Confederation, and whole chapters would require to be written to -elucidate the history and government of the country. There are -splendid museums, and libraries, and the University, though -comparatively recent, has more than a thousand students enrolled. - -As it is always my habit to get above a city if possible, either on a -church tower or on some commanding hill, I went to the Gurten and was -there at sunset when the Alpenglow was exhibited with all its pomp. -Below lay the splendid buildings of the prosperous town with their -towers and variegated roofs and gables. At the foot of the lovely -Blümlisalp could be seen the glint of the Lake of Thun, and as for -mountains--merely to mention the Jungfrau, the Finsteraarhorn, the -Eiger and the Mönch, brings up to me now, not seeing them, a vision -that makes the tears come to my eyes. What shall I say, too, to add to -the picture, so inadequately hinted at, merely, more than to chronicle -that the moon arose not quite at her full but pouring out a jar of -golden light that filled the whole valley with vibrating, quivering -beauty? At night mountains seem to shrink as if they lay down to -sleep. So, from the eight hundred and sixty-one meter altitude of the -Gurten, I had the brilliant afternoon sunlight, the most perfect view -of the blushing Jungfrau,--and it was most becoming to her,--and then -a radiant moonlight night. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -AT ZÜRICH WITH THE PROFESSOR - - -Early the following morning I started for Zürich by the way of -Lucerne. I shall say nothing about that gem of cities now; for, in the -first place, it was raining when I arrived there, and, in the second -place, I had later an opportunity to spend a fortnight there, or -rather in the vicinity, with a college classmate who was occupying a -handsome villa situated high up above the lake and affording a -marvellous gallery of views from every side. I met him by accident in -the railway station and he insisted on taking me home with him then -and there. Only by faithfully promising him that I would come back to -him after my trip in the Tyrol, did he allow me to continue on my way. - -So I reached Zürich exactly on time and I found Professor Landoldt -awaiting me. He took me in a taxicab to his quaint and amusing old -house, situated high up and looking over the whole city. When we got -there I must say it did not overlook anything, because of the low -hanging clouds from which fell a steady rain. One of R. Töpfer's -"Nouvelles Génévoises" begins with these words:--"When you travel in -Switzerland alone and not bringing your always amiable family along -with you, the rain is a melancholy harbinger of tedium as it confines -you in a hotel-parlor in the company of disappointed tourists." - -[Illustration: A RAINY DAY IN ZÜRICH.] - -I was alone and without my family and it was disappointing to get my -first view of Zürich without being able to see much of anything. But -the cheery welcome that I received atoned for it. Frau Landoldt was a -hearty German woman. I learned accidentally that her father was a -Baron von Eggisland and quite well-known as an artist. She herself had -a remarkable gift for painting. She was very pretty, with rippling -fair hair and eyes like turquoises. They had no children. German -individuality is always seen in the decoration of rooms, in the -arrangement of pictures and ornaments; it is very different from -English or American taste. But in her home prevailed that atmosphere -of _Gemütlichkeit_ which is the very soul of hospitality and makes one -happy. - -In the middle of the afternoon coffee was brought in, together with -_Apfelküchen_ and cheese, jam and fruit. We chatted as we drank the -delicious coffee. The Professor and his wife were interested to know -what I had been doing since I reached Switzerland, and I told them -about some of the more notable expeditions which I had enjoyed, -especially my trip around the Lake Leman and my visit to Geneva. - -As it still rained and was not propitious for sallying forth, we went -into the study of Professor Landoldt, which, as I glanced over it, I -found had a well-selected variety of books in various languages, -especially on history. One of my first remarks, after I had made a -cursory tour of the room, rather surprised the serious-minded German. -I said: "If one of my chickens--though, to tell the truth, I never had -a chicken in my life--were to escape and fly over into my neighbour's -yard or my dog should run away, I could claim him and bring him back?" - -"A propos?" asked the Professor, most politely, but evidently thinking -I had gone _verrückt_. - -"As far as I can make out, a large part of the soil of Switzerland has -run away and is disporting itself all over the rest of Europe. Why -does it not still belong to Switzerland?" - -"Oh, I see what you mean," he said, very seriously. - -"What I really mean is this; if Switzerland, which is a republic, -governed, as far as I can judge, more democratically even than our -United States, could establish its claim to its run-away land and -introduce the same form of government in the army-swamped countries of -Europe,--in Germany, France and Austria,--think what a blessing it -would be!" - -"The time will come," said the Professor, "when there will be the -United States of Europe. Militarism foments national jealousies, but -the common people cherish no hatreds. Our little Switzerland was -originally just as much divided against itself as Germany and France -would be if Fate should suddenly amalgamate them. Germany seized -Alsace, and, when I was in Strassbourg not long ago, I noticed that -all the men at the market wore knots of black ribbon: that was in -token of mourning, because they had been torn from France. But if -there were the United States of Europe all that commemoration of hard -feelings would vanish. Napoleon was eagle-eyed and prophetic enough to -foresee what was coming; he would have made Europe one grand empire, -but one grand empire would have been the next step to one grand -republic, just as the trusts foreshadow government ownership. Think -what would be the saving in what you call 'dollars and cents' alone, -if the rivalry in military expenditure could be stopped. It would free -billions and billions to make perfect roads, to do away with slums, to -educate the masses, to cure the disease of intemperance, as well as -other curable diseases. It is coming as sure as Fate. We already see -the rosy light of its rising on the highest mountain-tops--the sun of -democracy touches the edge of the horizon." - -"That is fine," said I. "Yes, the people are waking to their -birthrights. Not long ago I was asked to address a large audience of -Russian Jews gathered to do honour to Count Tolstoï. I said the time -would come when, instead of the Emperor of Russia and the Emperor of -Germany commanding several millions of peasants torn from their homes -to fight with one another for some cause in which they had not the -slightest interest, and naturally friendly, these same millions of men -would suddenly reverse the current; if there was to be a fight, they -would stand round in a vast circle and let the two emperors settle it -in the arena just as David fought with Goliath,--perhaps by a -discussion, and not by swords and slings or pistols,--and it would be -settled just as equitably as if thousands of men and thousands of -horses were killed and horribly maimed." - -"The possibility of men of rival nations working side by side has been -shown again and again. I have been recently reading about the battle -of Zürich, where Masséna defeated the Russians and Austrians. Russians -and Austrians fought side by side. A juggle would have set Austrians -and Russians fighting one another. Hitherto they have been only pawns, -but the new game of chess makes the united pawns more powerful than -kings, queens and bishops." - -"That reminds me of the prediction made by the young Marquis de Pezay, -author of 'Zèles au Bain,' who in 1771 came to Switzerland and -published his 'Soirées Helvétiques' full of odd apostrophes--'Peoples, -whom I am about to visit, good Swiss, shut not your gates to my -passage!' He did not altogether like the mountains, though he called -them sublime and immense--'_colosses d'albâtres_'--and he said that -they would some day be cut down and practicable roads would be put -through, 'so as to make the nations sisters.' He made fun of the -militarism of the Bernese, though he himself was an officer in the -French army. He said: 'When universal peace comes about we shall see -bloody partizans exchanged for useful basins,'--if that is what he -means by _bâches salutaires_,--'the ruinous _revêtements_ of our -citadels will look down only on wide canals navigable and -well-supplied with fish, and gunpowder will not be exploded in the air -except to blow up rocks or celebrate the festivals of pacific kings.'" - -"So is that fine," said the Professor. "But speaking of the Russians -and the Austrians fighting side by side--that was a masterly retreat -which Suvórof made over the mountains. I do not know which to admire -most, Hannibal in taking his elephants across the Alps from the Rhône -to the Po, or the Russian field-marshal extricating himself from the -_cul de sac_ into which his obstinacy had entrapped him." - -"That is odd!" I exclaimed. "I have just been reading about Hannibal -in Polybius and Livy, but I have forgotten if I ever knew the exact -facts about Suvórof." - -"I will tell you about it," said the Professor, "if you would like to -hear it." - -"Indeed I would." - -The Professor got out a large atlas, and occasionally showed me the -places on the map. "I will tell you," he said, "there is a remarkable -account of Suvórof's adventure in the Swiss novelist Ernst Zahn's -'Albin Indergand.' It is right from the life. But I will do my best. - -"Suvórof, who had crossed the Alps and seized Turin and Milan, was -ordered by the Emperor to have his plans approved before being put -into execution. He complained of this absurd restriction. 'In war,' he -said, 'circumstances are changing from one moment to another; -consequently there can be no precise plan of action.' - -"He was surrounded by jealousies and by spies, and the Austrian court -issued orders without consulting him. - -"He was so disgusted with the condition of things that he was tempted -to throw up his command. He wrote to the Emperor asking if he might be -recalled: 'I wish to lay my bones in my fatherland and pray God for my -Emperor.' The battle of the Trebbia was succeeded by the sanguinary -fight at Novi, where Suvórof allowed his forces to be almost -annihilated before he woke to the danger in which he was placed. At -this battle the French loss was twelve thousand; that of the Allies -eight thousand, of which one-fourth were Russians. The Russians began -to sack Novi, but Suvórof managed to restrain them. He was then -ordered to lead the armies in Switzerland. - -"He was heartbroken at the vain result of his efforts and triumphs. - -"He was almost seventy years old, and during his professional career -of half a century, he had never been defeated. - -"He had for a local guide through Switzerland Colonel Weywrother, an -Austrian officer. Misled by him the Russian general calculated that he -could reach Schwyz in seven days. He had twenty thousand men. -Uncorrected by Weywrother, he selected a road which ended at Altorf -whence the only passage to Lucerne and Schwyz was by water. When, -after an incredibly rapid march, covering in four days a space usually -requiring a week, they reached Taverna, not one of the fifteen hundred -mules ordered was on hand and all the advantage of this marvellous -forced passage was lost. They were delayed five days, and then only -six hundred and fifty mules came. - -"The Grand Duke Constantine suggested dismounting the four thousand -Cossacks and using their horses as pack-animals. Lieutenant-General -Rosenberg, with a division of six thousand, attempted to turn the -Saint-Gotthard pass by the Val di Blegno, Dissentis and the Oberalp -Lake. He was obliged to bivouac at Cassaccia, nearly two thousand -three hundred meters above the sea, in bitter cold without fire or -any sort of shelter. But he succeeded in getting behind the enemy's -position. - -"Suvórof, mounted on a Cossack horse and wearing the cloth -uniform-coat of a private over his flimsy suit, and topping all with -his famous threadbare cloak, rode up from Bellinzona, accompanied by -an aged peasant guide, who did not know that the road ended at Altorf. - -"Reaching and capturing Airolo, they drove out the French, who retired -to the mountain and kept up a galling fire. - -"When the Russians attempted to carry the summit of the pass it took -two successive assaults, at a loss of two thousand men, to win it. - -"Rosenberg had, in the meantime, driven the French from the Oberalpsee -and crossed the heights above Andermatt, then dashing down through -dense fog, had captured that village, and cut off the French -reinforcements. - -"Flinging his cannon into the Reuss, he took his men over the -Betzberg, more than two thousand two hundred meters in height, and -brought them in safety into the Göschenen valley. - -"The Urner Loch, a passage cut in the solid rock and just large enough -to admit a single pedestrian and his pack, and the Devil's Bridge, -wide enough to allow two men to walk abreast, hanging twenty-three -meters above the swift Reuss, were the only means of getting to the -pass, which is about half a kilometer long. - -"A promiscuous slaughter followed. A French gun swept the tunnel from -end to end with grape, and mowed down all who entered. The rearmost -Russians pushed those in front of them towards the hole. Its entrance -was choked with human beings, and many were pushed over the edge of -the chasm and perished in the boiling torrent. - -"This waste of life lasted till the Russian flanking parties came in -sight on the heights above. Then the defenders of the tunnel retired -across the Devil's Bridge. One can see even now where they broke down -the masonry platform by which it was approached. Then followed a -murderous battle. The combatants were separated only by the narrow -chasm of the Reuss. At last the French, seeing the enemy working his -way along the mountain above them to the right, began to waver. Their -assailants streamed across the narrow arch as far as the break in the -masonry platform. To cross it they pulled down a shed hard by; bound -its timbers together with officers' sashes and laid them across the -chasm; Prince Meschersky was the first to cross. 'Do not forget me in -the despatches,' he cried, as he fell mortally wounded. A Cossack -followed him but fell into the torrent. - -"The French retreated to Seedorf, on the left bank of the Reuss, and -there waited the turn of affairs. Meantime Suvórof had reached Altorf, -where he found the end of his path. - -"Not knowing how conditions were around Zürich, he determined to force -his way to Schwyz. To do this meant to march across the Rosstock, that -rugged ridge between the Schächental and the Muotta. - -"Even under favourable conditions it is a hard task; but it was now -late in the season; yet in spite of all common sense reasons he -decided on this plan. - -"The terrible advance up the Kinzig pass began on the 27th of -September. Bagration was in the van; Rosenberg remained behind to -protect the rear. Here is the graphic picture which Milyutin gives of -the journey:-- - -"'The path became gradually steeper and at times disappeared -altogether. - -"'It was not an easy matter for pedestrians to climb such a height: -what then must have been the difficulty of conducting horses and -mules, laden with guns, ammunition and cartridges! The poor animals -could hardly budge a foot; in many cases they stumbled from the narrow -pathway headlong into the abyss and were dashed to pieces on the rocks -below. The horses often dragged the men with them in their fall; a -false step was death. - -"'At times black clouds descending the mountain-sides enveloped the -column in dense vapor and the troops were soaked to the skin as if by -heavy rain. They groped their way through the raw fog, everything -round about being invisible. - -"'The boots of both officers and men were for the most part worn out. -Their biscuit-bags were empty. Nothing was left to sustain their -strength. - -"'But, in spite of extreme suffering, the half-shod, starving troops -of Russia kept up their spirits. In the hour of trial the presence of -the son of their Emperor, sharing their fatigues and dangers, -encouraged them. During the entire march the Grand Duke Constantine -Pavlovitch marched with Bagration's advance-guard.' - -"The sufferings of those Russians were incredible! The main body of -the troops spent the bitter cold night in the mountains, with -little to eat, no fire and no shelter. Many perished from exposure. - -"In the morning Suvórof learned that Korsákof had been defeated at -Zürich, that Glarus was in the hands of the French; that Hotze was -defeated and killed in the battle on the Linth; that the Austrians who -should have been his support on the right had retreated. Masséna was -approaching Schwyz to meet him there; Molitor held Glarus; Le Courbe -was at Altorf. - -"He was caught in a trap. On the 29th he summoned a council of war. - -"When the council was assembled he broke into a furious invective -against the Austrians and put the question fair and square:-- - -"'We are surrounded in the midst of the mountains by an enemy superior -in strength. What are we to do? To retreat is dishonor. I have never -retreated. To advance to Schwyz is impossible. Masséna has sixty -thousand men; we have not twenty thousand. Besides, we are destitute -of provisions, cartridges and artillery. We can look to no one for -aid. We are on the brink of ruin.' - -"The council voted to march on Glarus and force a passage past the -Wallensee. - -"Suvórof ended with these brave words:-- - -"'All one can do is to trust in Almighty God and in the courage and -devotion of our troops. We are Russians. God is with us.' - -"Then the old marshal fell at the feet of the Grand Duke Constantine -Pavlovitch. The Grand Duke raised him and kissed him. - -"'Save the honor of Russia and her Tsar! Save our Emperor's son! _Da!_ -We are Russians. With the help of God we will conquer!' - -[Illustration: THE URNER LOCH.] - -"Bagration pushed the French back into the narrow gorge between the -mountains and the Klöntalersee; but having then a solid position they -resisted further attack. Masséna, advancing from Schwyz, was attacking -Rosenberg in the rear in the Muotta valley, but met by Rehbinder's -brigade and attacked from above by Cossacks fighting on foot, they -were driven back through the defile, a terrible slaughter of the -fugitives taking place at the bridge, now known as Suvórof's, which -spanned the Muotta. - -"Again the Russians had to sleep out-of-doors, cold and starving and -exposed to a bitter sleet. The grand duke and Suvórof found shelter in -a cow-shed. - -[Illustration: THE KINZIG PASS.] - -"On the morning of October 1, Masséna with fifteen thousand men again -attacked Rosenberg whose troops followed up 'a staggering volley' with -the famous Suvórof bayonet charge and drove them miles down the -valley, inflicting on them a loss of more than two thousand, not -counting perhaps as many more drowned in the Muotta, while some -hundreds fell or threw themselves over precipices. - -"Bagration was having equal success against Molitor in the defile by -the Klöntalersee driving him back to Mollis, but when he was -reinforced, retiring to Nettstal, in good order. Suvórof himself had -captured Glarus and a large supply of provisions; while Rosenberg by a -master-stroke of strategy succeeded in rejoining Suvórof in spite of a -heavy snow-storm, and the sufferings of his men, who in their turn had -to bivouac on the pass without food or fire. - -"The army, however, was still hemmed in and was short of provisions, -and still worse, short of ammunition. Their only hope was to escape by -the Panixer pass, but at this time of the year the deep snow already -fallen had obliterated the path; they were surrounded by dense clouds; -they had no guides; the superstitious Russians were greatly alarmed by -seeing the lightning and hearing peals of thunder below them--a -phenomenon which seemed to them supernatural. Occasionally a man, or -even an officer, mounted, would vanish entirely, swallowed up in some -deep crevasse hidden by snow. - -[Illustration: THE KLÖNTALERSEE.] - -"They had to spend the night again on the mountain; it grew bitter -cold; the snow became dangerously slippery. A bombardment of rocks -from the heights above killed many. - -"But the remainder with incredible courage pushed on the next day to -Ilanz, where it was found that at least five thousand were missing. - -"On the 8th of October they reached Coire, where, at last, the starved -wretches had something to eat. - -"And all this loss and suffering might have been largely obviated had -Suvórof known enough to follow the Splügen pass and the Grisons, or -having reached Altorf, joined Lipken by the Schächental. - -"In honour of the heroic management of the Swiss campaign the Emperor -made him generalissimo of the Russian army, calling him 'the most -renowned commander of this or any other age.'" - -"That is certainly a great story," said I. "Isn't there a statue or a -memorial to Suvórof?" - -"Oh, yes. At the Devil's Bridge, on the side of the chasm, there is a -tall granite cross, about ten meters high, put up in 1899, and with -an inscription in Russian to the memory of him and his brave comrades. -The bridge itself is generally called after him." - -"It brings these great events very vividly before one to be at the -very spot where they took place, does it not?" - -"Yes, just think what centuries of history this Zürich of ours has -seen! While I was in England a few years ago I picked up at a -second-hand bookshop a queer old copy of Thomas Coryat's 'Crudities.' -Here is the book: in his dedication he calls himself 'Thy benevolent -itinerating friend T. C., the Odcombian Legge-Stretcher.' He travelled -through all this region, using his 'ten toes for a nagge.' Here he -refers to Zürich: he says that while here he met Rodolphus -Hospinianus, Gaspar Waserus and Henricus Bultigerus. Gaspar Waserus -was the 'ornamêt of the town, speaking eight languages' but -Hospinian--that 'glittering lamp of learning'--told him that their -city was founded in the time of Abraham. He derives the names from the -fact that it belonged to two kingdoms--_zweier Reich_--'one, on the -farther bank of the Limacus,' he says, 'belonged to Turgouia, that on -the hither bank Ergouia.' The Latin name, according to him, was -_Turegum, quasi, duorum regum civitas_." - -"An amusing case of imaginary etymology," I should say. "But Zürich is -a very ancient city, I believe." - -"Oh, yes. In 1853 and the following year there was a remarkable -diminution of the waters in the lake and wide surfaces were laid bare. -Near Obermeilen, above half-way up the lake, some labourers were -embanking some new land and they discovered piles, bits of charcoal -and other relics. Ferdinand Keller began making investigations and he -discovered that these piles were in parallel rows and were evidently -the remains of habitations. After that any number of similar -discoveries were made. At Concise, near Neuchâtel, from one single -aquatic village twenty-five thousand different objects were recovered. -And they now know exactly how these villages looked with their floors -of fire-hardened clay, their circular walls, their conical roofs made -of wattled reeds and straw or bark. If you have been into any of the -Swiss museums you have seen their weapons and stag-horns, bulls' -skulls, flint arrowheads, serpentine hatchets, slings, horn-awls, -rings, and clay vessels, toys, quoits, ornamented often with rude but -not inartistic etchings,--there is no end to the things -preserved,--and even their canoes hollowed out of one trunk, just such -as Hannibal used for crossing the Rhône. Each village had probably two -or three hundred huts connected with the shore by a bridge. One -investigator discovered a storehouse containing a hundred measures of -barley and wheat. They evidently had their farms; they raised apples, -pears and plums. They had a trade with other tribes, for coral and -amber articles were found. Yes, Zürich is built on a settlement that -existed probably fifteen hundred years before Christ--not so very far -from the time of Abraham." - -"Who were they?" - -"Some think they were of the same race as the Etruscans. It is -probable that they were attacked by the Kelts, who burnt their -villages." - -"I suppose it was Kelts who attacked Hannibal." - -"Probably; they were Allobrogi. The Kelts were always freedom-loving." - -"I remember what Kant says about the people of mountains loving -freedom: 'The peoples that dwell around and on the mountains are very -strong and bold and in all ways seek to assert their freedom--_ihre -Freiheit zu behaupten_. But this probably comes from the fact that in -such regions it is very easy for a few to defend themselves against -great armies, and, moreover, the mountain-peaks are uninhabited and -uninhabitable; in the valleys also little wealth is to be found and no -one is especially tempted to dwell in such regions.' He also claims -that the peoples that do live there and are vegetarians are the -freest." - -"I am not so certain about the valleys not tempting to invasion. Do -you know one of the most interesting episodes in Swiss history is the -coming of the Saracens? Yet they left surprisingly few remains--a few -medals without dates--a few names embedded in other names--like -Pontresina, which is Pons Sarecenorum." - -"I know it is, because one of my favourite novels is Viktor von -Scheffel's 'Ekkehard.'" - -"Do you know that?" - -"Indeed I do, and, above all things, I want to go to the Lake of -Constance--your Bodensee--and make a pilgrimage to the Hohentwil, -where Ekkehard taught the duchess Latin and she taught him love." - -"We will go there together; that will be an excellent excursion." - -This plan also, I will say here, we carried out, visiting at the -same time Constance and two or three other towns on the lake, and also -the Falls of the Rhine. Really, to know Switzerland, one would have to -live here years. Everywhere I go the charm and variety of it grows on -me. Mountains, mountains everywhere! I can say with old Coryat:-- - -"Such is the height of many of these mountains that I saw at the least -two hundred of them that were 'farre aboue' some of the clouds!" - -I was glad that Constance, which controls the mouth of its lake, has -also its Reformer--John Huss--to compare with Geneva's Calvin and -Zürich's Zwingli; they prize him all the more because they put him to -death! - -[Illustration: THE FALLS OF THE RHINE.] - -The Professor and I talked of all manner of things,--antiquities, -Swiss history, which, except in spots, and its final results, is not -very inspiring; strikes and labour-troubles, woman-suffrage, the -growth of commercialism, the Swiss railways and the advantage of -having them owned by the state, and education. We forgot that it -rained. But the following morning the storm showed symptoms of -dissolution, and the Professor and I sallied forth to see the city. -Every city is worthy of a hundred books; for every city is full of -human beings, or else of history, or both. Zürich has nearly two -hundred thousand inhabitants and also has its history. I had seen -lying on the library table a beautifully printed and well illustrated -pamphlet describing the restoration of the Fraumünster, which was -completed in 1912. That venerable building settles Zürich's historic -solidity. There were found in it, or rather under it, traces of the -little church which was torn down in the Ninth Century to make room -for the Carolingian minster, which has been so successfully repaired. -We went around it and into it and the Professor pointed out to me the -relics of its most ancient carvings, more or less mutilated -inscriptions, grave-stones--one of them to the Ritter Berngerus von -Wile, dated 1284. - -"Did you know that in the Thirteenth Century when Berngerus,--I wonder -if he was a bear-slayer,--when Von Wile was living in Zürich,--there -was a regular school of poetry here? Heinrich Mannes, the Probst of -the Abtei, who founded the Library, had charge of it. He died in 1270. -Rüdiger Mannesse had a great collection of song-books, and the tests -in 'Mastersong' were much enjoyed. Count Krafto von Toggenburg was -afterwards Probst of the Abtei. It is supposed that Hadloub was -his pupil. He was the nephew of Elizabeth von Wetzikon, the -Fürstabtissin, who made him chaplain of St. Stephen's outside the -walls. This Elizabeth von Wetzikon's mortuary inscription was found in -the old church, but badly mutilated. The Zürich Antiquarian Society -has published nearly three score of Hadloub's poems. I read some of -them. There is one that reminded me of the old English song--'Sumer is -i-kumen in--lude sing kuku.' It begins:-- - - "'Sumer hât gesendet ûz sîn Wunne; - Seht die bluomen gênt ûf dur daz gras. - Lûter klâr stêt nû der liechte sunne - Dâ der winter ê vil trûebe was.'" - -[Illustration: THE FRAUMÜNSTER.] - -As it was still cloudy we went into the Swiss National Museum. A hasty -glance at the old furniture, at the stained glass--the best collection -in the world--made it evident that a week was all too short for -Zürich--I should want at least a week for that wonderful museum alone. -And with such an intelligent guide as Professor Landoldt it was most -edifying. When we came out the sun was shining and we went to the top -of the Polytechnikum and got that bird's-eye view of the town which is -the best introduction. I shall always remember the beauty of it; I -can see with my mind's eye the twin towers of the Gross-Münster--not -that they are beautiful, at least not their caps--and (from closer -observation) the quaint statue of Charlemagne with his gilded crown -and sword. - -"The molasses-sandstone which was used for building so many of the old -edifices in Zürich," said the Professor, "comes from quarries at the -upper end of the lake that were known in Roman times. Unfortunately it -crumbles rather readily 'under the tooth of time.' Some of the -carvings on the old cathedral are most quaint and curious, as you will -see. For instance, on the third story is a knight dressed in tunic and -chlamys. He may have been meant for Rupert, an Alleman duke, or for -Burkhart, Duke of Suabia. Besides the human and angel figures you will -see birds and all sorts of four-footed creatures, many of them -imaginary or apocalyptic. It is odd that the statues and decorations -do not refer to Biblical subjects but rather to heathen -imaginations--chimeras, dragons, hippogrifs, sirens, lions eating men -who are certainly not meant to be Daniels; there are a winged -crocodile devouring a giant's ears, a toad standing on its head, a -bearded Hercules strangling twisted serpents, Delilah cutting Samson's -hair, wolves biting at a boar, skinny monkeys with skulls at their -mouths, a face with fish coming out of the mouth and ears, centaurs -shooting bows, conventionalized grapes and monsters eating them, and -the like. - -[Illustration: THE QUAINT STATUE OF CHARLEMAGNE.] - -"The first towers," he went on to say, "were in Romanesque style and -not intended to rise much above the roof; there should have been a -separate campanile; at the end of the Fifteenth Century both towers -were built higher in Gothic style. I think it was the ambitious -Bürgermeister Waldmann, envious of the tall towers of Basel and -Fribourg, who had them elevated. To meet the expenses he himself -contributed three hundred gulden, and taxed the whole priesthood from -the bishop down, but he did not live to see his ambition carried out. -These towers went through various vicissitudes. In 1490 a pointed cap -ornamented with lead was put on each, but the lead was too heavy and -was taken off twenty years later and the caps were covered with larch -shingles. These lasted till they caught fire in 1575; then a copper -top was put on; then shingles again; then in 1763 it was struck by -lightning and burned to the bell-deck. In 1770 a stone gallery with -pyramids on the four corners showed itself. The present rather -ridiculous top--the octagonal wooden helmets--dates back to 1779." - -"There must be any amount of interesting remains all around Zürich," -said I, leading him on. - -"Indeed there are. A number of years ago the favourite spot for -viewing Zürich was up on the Balgrist, where you look down into the -Limmat valley and across the lake to the mountains. In 1814, I think -it was, some labourers requiring material to mend the roads with dug -down and discovered some skeletons. It was supposed to be remains of -soldiers killed in the battle between the Russians and the French in -1799 and they gave these remains Christian burial. But they were -really prehistoric. Afterwards all sorts of things were found there, -but, as it was not then a scientific age, most of them were lost. The -place is Entebüchel, which local etymology interprets as the Hill of -the Giants; Büchel, equivalent to Hühl, meaning hill, and Ente the -local word for giant. But it really means 'Beyond the Hill,' the word -_ent_ or _ennet_ being an Alleman word." - -"What is the oldest monument in Zürich?" - -"Oh, probably a grave-stone of the Second Century, which some Roman -official set up to his beloved son; it stands in the present -Lindenhof and has the words 'Statio turicensis' carved on it. When -this region became Roman the tax-collectors dwelt here. After the fall -of the Romans, the Allemanni came, then the Franks, then the German -kings. Zürich was a palatinate, which means, as you know, palatium -regis; a palace where the kings stayed when they visited here. Really, -you might spend a life-time studying the history of Zürich and this -lake. I shall like you to compare the Lake of Geneva with our much -smaller Zürich Lake," said Herr Landoldt. "I shall take you on a trip -around it." - -He was true to his promise. After he had shown me all the sights of -his splendid city--the largest in Switzerland--we made the tour of the -lake. It has not the beauty of colouring of Lake Leman; it is a pale -green but "the sweet banks of Zürich's lovely lake" are what the -French call _riant_, a little more than our smiling; and the -background of snow-covered Alps is magnificent. The lake is about ten -times as long as it is wide and is one hundred and forty-two meters -deep. Just as from the end of Leman rushes the Rhône, so from the -Zürich end of its lake rushes in a torrential dash the green Limmat. -On the left shore, at the place where it attains its greatest width, -are the two little islands of Lützelau and Ufenau. On Ufenau is a -church and a chapel dating from about the middle of the Twelfth -Century. Here died in 1523, Maximilian's poet-laureate, Luther's -zealous partizan, the high-tempered, witty, impetuous Ulrich von -Hutten. He had to flee from his enemies, and found a refuge through -the protection of his fellow-reformer, Zwingli, who exercised somewhat -the same commanding influence in Zürich as Calvin did in Geneva. I had -never read any of Von Hutten's works, but I found an excellent edition -of them in the Professor's library and I read with much amusement some -of the sarcasms which he put into verse in his "Awakener of the German -Nation." - -We went to Rapperswyl--the ending _wyl_ or _wil_ reminds one of the -multitude of New England towns ending in _ville_ and has the same -origin--and spent an hour in the Polish National Museum founded in -1870 by Count Broel-Plater and installed in the Fourteenth-Century -castle, which came to the Hapsburgs when its founders lost it. It -seemed strange to see all the memorials of a vanquished -people--weapons, banners and ornaments, portraits and historical -pictures--on the walls or in the cabinets of a city so far away. - -[Illustration: RAPPERSWYL.] - -We got back to Zürich in the evening, and the Professor called my -attention to the romantic effect of the lighted boats plying on the -glittering waters. There was a brilliant moon, too, and a more -beautiful scene I have rarely witnessed than the city with its myriad -lights. - - * * * * * - -My week went like a breath. Before I knew it, we were off for our trip -through the Austrian Tyrol. Will and Ruth appeared in due time, and, -to my surprise, they brought Lady Q. with them. It is one of the -curiosities of travel that one is always meeting the same persons. We -should have toured the Bernese Oberland had not motor-vehicles been -barred. But in the Tyrol splendid roads have been constructed and -those incomparable regions are a paradise for travel. To detail the -itinerary would be merely a catalogue with superlatives for -decoration. To describe the journey with all its memorable -details,--picturesque towns, valleys sweeping down between rugged -mountains, rivers and cataracts, would occupy a book as big as a -dictionary. I noticed that we came to the third class of -mountain-peaks: the first was Dents, the second was Horns, and now we -found the term was Piz. One of the most fascinating little places that -we visited on a side trip to Davos-Platz was Sertig Dörfli, with its -attractive church and its view of the Piz Kesch. At Davos lived John -Addington Symonds, and I pleased my niece especially by reciting his -beautiful sonnet: "'Neath an uncertain moon." Besides that Piz we saw -Piz Michel and Piz Vadret and Piz Grialetsch. In several cases, where -we could not go in the car, we went either by train or by carriage. At -Sils, also, finely situated on the largest of the Engadine lakes, -there were still more Pizes: Piz della Marga, Piz Corvatsch, Piz Güz. -There is no end to them. - -We took the advice of some chance acquaintances who had been motoring -through the Tyrol. We went to Bozen, and, after spending the night -there, we followed the Val Sugana and the Broccone and Gobbera passes -and then the new roads of the Rolle, the Pordoi and the Falzarego into -the Dolomites. Of course the Dolomites do not belong to Switzerland as -a State but only geologically. We crossed over into Italy and enjoyed -the drive by the Italian lakes--a succession of "dreams of beauty," as -Lady Q. said with more truth than originality. We spent a day in Milan -and then returned to Switzerland by the Saint-Gotthard. - -[Illustration: _Serlig Dörfli_] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -ON THE SHORES OF LAKE LUCERNE - - -My classmate, Ned Allen, was always a dilettante; if he had been -obliged to work, he might have accomplished great things; but, though -he may have had ambitions, the days of his young manhood slipped away -while he travelled all over the world. Then he became disgusted with -what he considered unjust taxation, and, converting all his property -into income-bearing bonds, so that he had no care or worry, he came to -Europe and lived part of the time in his villa on the Lake of the Four -Cantons and part of the time in a lovely palazzo near Palermo in -Sicily. - -He had everything to make him happy, and, yet, like most of the rich -men whom I have ever known, he was not happy. Happiness comes only in -forgetting one's self, and that he had no time to do, because he had -all the time there was. - -It did him good, I think, to be obliged to exert himself a little to -show me the sights. Like myself, he was very fond of music, and he -followed the example of a good many wealthy men in Switzerland--he had -a string quartet play every Sunday afternoon and also two or three -evenings a week. One day he took me to the house of a friend of his -who supported a large orchestra and gave concerts to a few invited -guests or to himself alone according to circumstances. He had been to -Paderewski's villa on the Lake of Constance and to the Count von -Hesse-Wartegg's, where his wife, Madame Minnie Hauk, after retiring -from the stage, has lived for a number of years. As I knew them all, I -wished that I might pay my respects, but I had no chance--there were -so many other things to do. - -One of my first objects of pilgrimage at Lucerne was the Peace and War -Museum, founded by that remarkable Austrian Jew, Von Bloch. My -classmate was inclined to scoff at the notion of Universal Peace. I -found he had not read or even thought very deeply on the subject, and -I really think that my enthusiasm communicated itself somewhat to him. -He had never thought, before I suggested it to him, that the small -stature of the present-day French and Italians was probably due to -the fact that the best and strongest of the youth of those two -nations were killed off in the Napoleonic and subsequent wars. War -does not ensure the survival of the fittest. The old and weaklings are -left to perpetuate the race. - -One would hardly believe it, but Ned had never been to the top of -Pilatus; I found he was not especially interested in scenery, he who -lived in the midst of the most splendid scenery in Switzerland. But he -went with me to Pilatus. As we started I quoted the rhymed proverb:-- - - "Hat der Pilatus einen Hut - Dann wird das Wetter gut; - Hat er einen Degen - So giebt es sicher Regen." - -He had heard that and said it was quite true; if the mountain was -adorned with a little cloudy cap it meant that there would be fair -weather; fortunately the peak wore his hat and not his dagger, so we -had bright sunshine and not rain. - -But Ned did not know the legend which connects Pilate with the -mountain. Of course it should be _Mons Pileatus_--the capt mountain; -but the story became widespread that after Christ was put to death, -Pilate was recalled to Rome. He wore Christ's robe. He was found -guilty of malfeasance and was put to death. His body was thrown into -the Tiber which refused it and angry storms arose. It was sent to -Vienna: the Danube refused it; it was brought to the Rhône; again -storms; the lake refused it; new disasters came upon Lausanne. Then it -was brought to the Frankmünt--that is what the rough upper part of the -mountain is called; the _mons fractus_--where Pilate's ghost fought -with the spectre of King Herod--the red of the conflict was seen then -and afterwards at sunset on the mountain-top. Up came a necromancer -and laid a terrible spell. In the days that followed nothing would -grow there, and on Good Friday the disgraced procurator was doomed to -appear on a black mule with a white spot--like a Roman knight--and -show himself. - -So great was the fear of Pilatus that until comparatively modern times -no one dared to go up to it. Now there is a railway, and the ghost of -Pilate is laid. Sir Edwin Arnold speaks of the legend in his lilting -poem:-- - - "He riseth alone,--alone and proud - From the shore of an emerald sea; - His crest hath a shroud of the crimson cloud, - For a king of the Alps is he; - Standing alone as a king should stand, - With his foot on the fields of his own broad lands. - - "And never a storm from the stores of the North - Comes sweeping along the sky - But it emptieth forth the first of its wrath - On the crags on that mountain high; - And the voice of those crags has a tale to tell - That the heart of the hearer shall treasure well. - - "A tale of a brow that was bound with gold, - And a heart that was bowed with sin; - Of a fierce deed told of the days of old - That might never sweet mercy win, - Of legions in steel that were waiting by - For the death of the God that could never die. - - "Of a dear kind face that its kindness kept - Dabbled with blood of its own; - Of a lady who leapt from the sleep she slept - To plead at a judgment-throne. - Of a cross and a cry and a night at noon - And the sun and the earth at a sickly swoon. - - "But climb the crags when the storm has rule - And the spirit that rides the blast, - And hark to his howl as he sweeps the pool - Where the Roman groaned his last; - And to thee shall the tongue of the tempest tell - A record too sad for the poet's shell." - -[Illustration: LUCERNE AND MOUNT PILATUS.] - -Whatever may have been the bareness of its sides in consequence of -necromancer's spells it is now filled with beautiful plant -life--hundreds of varieties. If I had been as much of a botanist as I -am a collector for my mental picture-gallery I might fill a page with -the names and descriptions of the Alpine flowers, which I noticed as -merely blue or pink or yellow and cared little for distinguishing them -apart. Once during one of my trips I did see the edelweiss growing, -but it is not very pretty; but the fields of gentians and the -forget-me-nots--those acres of blue sky fallen to earth and growing up -again--those would or might inspire and extract a poem from the most -prosaic. - -We went together also to the top of the Rigi, which is easily -attainable by railway. - -Töpfer, in his story entitled "Les Deux Scheidegg," gives a most -enthusiastic description of an avalanche. I think I like the view from -Pilatus better than from Rigi; but from both the mountains look like a -colossal ocean in a storm and suddenly stricken by the sight of -Medusa's face! - -Ned took me in his motor-boat on several trips around the lake which -has so many names. I was not really so much interested in the -William Tell region as I suppose I should have been. Suppose it -were proved as decisively as Tell, as Eindridi with King Olaf, as -Hemingr with King Harald, or as Geyti, son of Alask, have been proved -to be mere sun myths, that Napoleon and Apollo were really the same, -and that George Washington was only a sun myth! His axe corresponds to -the bow and arrow; it cuts down the cherry-tree of darkness with its -glittering edge and brings liberty to his fellow-man. Who would then -care, for any sentimental reasons, to go to Mount Vernon? Why, -Schiller, himself, never saw the Lake of the Four Forest Cantons any -more than Coleridge ever saw Chamonix; he got all his local colour -from Goethe's descriptions. To go to the Tell Chapel is to participate -in a fraud! Yet the natives each year take part in a sort of -folk-play, which has all the solemnity of a semi-religious -celebration. I did not care to stop as we passed by; still less when -we took passage in a big Zeppelin dirigible and looked down upon the -big sprawling lake winding among its mountains! - -[Illustration: ON THE LAKE OF LUCERNE.] - -Ned actually waked up enough to walk with me about Lucerne; like one -who always has the opportunity, he had never before been through the -two covered bridges past the imposing water tower or scrutinized the -quaint wall paintings. He went with me to see the famous Lion of -Lucerne--one of the few memorial monsters that do not pall on -acquaintance. The little pool in front adds immensely to the effect. - -I had to tear myself away from the pleasant and luxurious home of my -friend. I went back to Lausanne by a somewhat different route, taking -in Sarnen, Meyringen and Brienz, and then going by steamboat from end -to end of the Brienzersee, not failing to spend a few hours at the -Giessbach. They illuminate it at night, but there is something -immodest about such an exhibition; it is like catching sight of a -wood-nymph or a water-fairy. I remember once seeing a great fire at -Niagara Falls and the river actually turned red with shame. But, by -moonlight, without artificial streams of light, it must be enchanting. - -I made a little stay at Interlaken, and from there I ran over to -Lauterbrunnen, where the Staubbach falls over its frowning suicidal -cliffs and dies before it reaches the valley. It is weird and -ghostlike--the _spirit_ of a waterfall. I walked far up into the -valley, and, coming back to the hotel once more, saw that delicate -blush on the Jungfrau. I don't wonder Thomas Gray declares that "the -mountains are ecstatic and ought to be visited in pilgrimage once a -year." I would go farther and say that as one grew older, one should -live among them or in sight of them. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - -LAUSANNE AGAIN - - -In going back I walked part of the way, taking in inverse order -Byron's route, which is interesting because he worked his -reminiscences of it into "Manfred." This is what Byron says, and it -shows how poems crystallize: "The music of the cows' bells (for their -wealth, like the Patriarchs', is cattle) in the pastures (which reach -to a height far above any mountains in Britain) and the shepherds, -shouting to us from crag to crag, and playing on their reeds where the -steeps appeared almost inaccessible, with the surrounding scenery, -realized all that I ever heard or imagined of a pastoral -existence--much more so than Greece or Asia Minor, for there we are a -little too much of the saber and musquet order; and if there is a -crook in one hand, you are sure to see a gun in the other--but this -was pure and unmixed--solitary, savage and patriarchal: the effect I -cannot describe. As we went, they played the 'Ranz des Vaches' and -other airs by way of farewell." - -[Illustration: "THE MUSIC OF THE COWS' BELLS."] - -The pipes of the shepherds he later introduced into "Manfred:" - - "Hark! the note, - The natural music of the mountain reed-- - For here the patriarchal days are not - A pastoral fable--pipes in the liberal air, - Mix with the sweet bells of the sauntering herd." - -Still in the high lands he describes threading the long, narrow valley -of the Sarine then little traversed by travellers. He describes the -bed of the river as very low and deep, "rapid as anger." He thought -the people looked free and happy and rich: "the cows superb; a bull -nearly leaped into the _charaban_--agreeable companion in a post -chaise--goats and sheep very thriving. A mountain with enormous -glaciers to the right--the Kletsgerberg; further on, the -Hockthorn--nice names--so soft!--Hockthorn, I believe, very lofty and -craggy, patched with snow only; no glaciers on it, but some good -epaulettes of clouds." - -As he travelled from the Canton Vaud into the Canton of Bern he -crossed between the Château d'Oex and the village of Saanen, so I -reversed the order. The valley then, as now, was famous for its -cheese. Byron says it was famous for cheese, liberty, property and no -taxes, also bad German. They passed along the valley of Simmenthal and -came into the plain of Thun by its narrow entrance with high -precipices wooded to the top. He crossed the river in a boat rowed by -women, which caused him to remark: "Women went right for the first -time in my recollection." He visited the modern castle of Schadau at -the western end of the Lake of Thun, near the mouth of the Aar. A boat -took them in three hours from Castle Schadau to Neuhaus: "The lake -small, but the banks fine: rocks down to the water's edge." - -He was carried away by the splendour of the scenery beyond Interlaken. -The glaciers and torrents from the Jungfrau charmed him. He lodged at -the house of the curate, which stood immediately opposite the -Staubbach--"nine hundred feet in height of visible descent." He heard -an avalanche fall like thunder. "A storm came on--thunder, lightning, -hail; all in perfection and beautiful." He would not let the guide -carry his cane because it had a sword concealed in it and he was -afraid it might attract the lightning. - -He thus describes the fall:--"The torrent is in shape curving over the -rock, like the _tail_ of a white horse streaking in the wind, such -as might be conceived would be that of the 'pale horse' on which -_Death_ is mounted in the Apocalypse. It is neither mist nor water but -a something between both; its immense height (nine hundred feet) gives -it a wave, a curve, a spreading here, a condensation there, wonderful -and indescribable." - -[Illustration: THE STAUBBACH.] - -Here, again, he got aliment for "Manfred:" - - "It is not noon--the sunbow's rays still arch - The torrent with the many hues of heaven, - And roll the sheeted silver's waving column, - O'er the crag's headlong perpendicular, - And flings its lines of foaming light along - And to and fro, like the pale courser's tail, - The giant steed, to be bestrode by Death - As told in the Apocalypse." - -The rainbow was suggested by the sun shining on the lower part of the -torrent, "of all colors but principally purple and gold, the bow -moving as you move." - -A day later he climbed to the top of the Wengern Mountain, five -thousand feet above the valley, the view comprising the whole of the -Jungfrau with all her glacier, then the Dent d'Argent, "shining like -truth," the two Eigers and the Wetterhorn. He says: "I heard the -avalanches falling every five minutes nearly--as if God was pelting -the Devil down from Heaven with snowballs. From where we stood, on the -Wengern Alp, we had all these in view on one side: on the other, the -clouds rose from the opposite valley, curling up perpendicular -precipices like the foam of the Ocean of Hell during a Springtide--it -was white and sulphury and immeasurably deep in appearance." From the -summit they "looked down upon a boiling sea of cloud, dashing against -the crags on which we stood." - -The avalanches and sulphurous clouds of course became part of the -_décor_ of "Manfred:" - - "Ye avalanches, whom a breath draws down - In mountainous overwhelming, come and crush me! - I hear ye momently above, beneath, - Crash with a frequent conflict; but ye pass, - And only fall on things which still would live. - - "The mists boil up around the glaciers; clouds - Rise curling fast beneath me, white and sulphury, - Like foam from the roused ocean of deep Hell." - -He saw the Grindelwald Glacier distinct, though it was twilight, and -he compared it to a frozen hurricane, a figure which he put unchanged -in his poem: - - "O'er the savage sea, - The glassy ocean of the mountain ice, - We skim its rugged breakers, which put on - The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam, - Frozen in a moment." - -Passing over the Great Scheideck, Rosenlaui, the Falls of the -Reichenbach ("two hundred feet high"), the Valley of Oberhasli, he -reached Brienz, where four of the peasant girls of Oberhasli sang the -airs of their country--"wild and original and at the same time of -great sweetness." - - * * * * * - -The summer was drawing to an end. I had got somewhat tired of -excursions, and was content to settle down to a regular course of -reading. I suppose if it had not been for my beloved relatives I might -have been tempted to plan for a winter in Rome, which had for years -seemed to me a desirable place to visit. If it had not been for these -same dear ones, there were a dozen places in Switzerland which would -have attracted me. I detest the cold, and Montreux, which has been -called the Riviera of Helvetia, offered a climate tempered against the -pernicious _bise_. We ran up to the Tour d'Aï one afternoon and I was -fascinated with the place. - -Will and I made a walking trip through the Bernese Oberland and we -both liked Thun. He suggested that it was because we, or I, happened -to be musical. I vowed that I would, in some way, get possession of -the Twelfth-Century Castle of Zähringen-Kyburg, have it refitted with -all American conveniences and live there the rest of my days--provided -I could find the right kind of a housekeeper. Seriously, is there any -more magnificent view in all Switzerland than from the environs of -Thun and from the lake? I trow not. But perhaps one would weary of too -grandiose views; after all, for human nature's daily food, human -society is preferable to mountains, and the fact that the tamer lakes, -such as Leman and Constance, seem to attract for regular residence -more congenial personages than I could find dwelt at Thun might make -one pause in one's plan to oust the museum and turn public property -into a selfish private possession. I could not follow Voltaire's -example and buy every château I saw and liked! - -So I was contented enough with Lausanne as a home. I do not propose to -inflict on my friends an account of every excursion that I took. That -through the Oberland perhaps more than any other made me realize how -completely I was subjected to that peculiar hypnotic influence which -we agree to call a spell. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN THUN.] - -It is a curious thing that in many of the high mountain passes, where -desolation of barrenness reigns, there is a lake said to have been -formed by the tears of Ahasuerus, the Wandering Jew. For instance, -when he first came to the Grimsel pass, between Bern and Valais, it -was radiant with fertile beauty; the climate was warm; it supported a -happy population; but he passed like a desolating breath, and when, -years later, he came again, in that never-ceasing round, all was -changed. He wept and his tears formed "The Lake of the Dead"--Der -Totensee. In it lie the bones of those who perished in that terrible -struggle between the Austrians and the French in 1799. There are all -sorts of wonderful legends which one might collect. For instance, how -came the Grindelwald to be so wide?--not that it is so wide,--but -still it is wider than it once was! Well, Saint Martin came there and -was not satisfied with its appearance, so he pried the valley walls -apart. The prints of his feet are visible. On the way to the Grimsel -we spent a long time at the Handeck Fall, which is regarded as the -finest in Europe; the Aar with considerable volume of water falls -into an abyss about twenty-three meters higher than Niagara. - - * * * * * - -I followed Byron's footsteps in following Rousseau's--only much more -deliberately. It is rather difficult now, for many of the houses which -sheltered Rousseau and his fair mistress have been destroyed; that one -which belonged to Madame de Warens's father, J. B. de la Tour, "Baron -de l'Empire," was taken down in 1889. The daughter was educated at -Lausanne and married Noble Sebastien-Isaac de Loys, son of the -Seigneur de Villardin, and a soldier who had fought in the Swedish -service. As M. de Loys possessed a seigneurie in a neighbouring -village he took the name of it and called himself Vuarens, which the -Bernese made into Warens. I sympathized with poor M. de Warens. He -tells the story of his marital troubles in a letter which is a volume -and breathes sincerity. But there is a good deal of comedy about the -whole affair, and only Madame de Warens's pathetic ending, in poverty -and neglect, makes one feel sorry for her. - -In 1762 the Comte d'Escheray--a young man of twenty-nine--happened to -be living in a little house at Motiers-Travers, in a delightful -valley, spending his time in the cultivation of literature and music, -in walking and in hunting. Rousseau was there also, and the count -gives a lively narrative of his acquaintance with the philosopher; his -dinners, his conversations, his evening walks in the woods, singing -duets. One day he and Rousseau walked from Colombier to Les -Brenets--six leagues--stopping every little while to study the wild -places. The count says: "I consider this little portion of the Jura, -enclosed in the boundaries of Neuchâtel, as one of the most curious -countries in the world for the philosopher, the physician, the -geologist, the artist and the mechanician to study." They finally came -to the residence of M. du Peyron, a rich, charitable American. -Rousseau took kindly to him and they botanized together. - -It was a pleasant excursion to pick out Rousseau's tracks in this -expedition. - -I also made a study of Voltaire's life, and read a great deal of his -writings. I prepared an article on his theatrical ventures. One of his -châteaux was Monrion (which means _mons rotundus_) on the crest -between Lausanne and the lake. It was a square two-story building with -high attic and L-shaped wings. It had twenty-four rooms with superb -views. He did not live in it long, and it passed into the hands of -Dr. Tissot. Voltaire moved into a house in Lausanne, 6, Rue du Grand -Chêne, and here he gave theatrical entertainments. He also organized -them at Monrepos, a château then owned by the Marquis de Langalérie. -The stage was in the barn but the spectators were in the house. He -wrote his friends about the success of them: "I play the old man, -Lusignan.... I assure you, without vanity, that I am the best old fool -to be found in any company." To his friend Thiriot: "I wish that you -had passed the winter with me at Lausanne. You would have seen new -pieces performed by excellent actors, strangers coming from thirty -leagues around, and my beautiful shores of Lake Leman become the home -of art, of pleasure, and of taste." To his niece, Madame de Fontaine: -"The idlers of Paris think that Switzerland is a savage country; they -would be very much astonished if they saw 'Zaire' better played at -Lausanne than it is played at Paris; they would be still more -surprised to see two hundred spectators as good judges as there are in -Europe.... I have made tears flow from all the Swiss eyes." When he -moved to Geneva, and especially when he bought the château of -Ferney, so that he might be a thorn in the flesh of Genevese -sanctimoniousness, he was older, but still played his parts. - -[Illustration: CHÂTEAU VOLTAIRE, FERNEY.] - -In 1760 Catherine de Chandieu, then a girl of nineteen, was at Geneva -and saw Voltaire's play "Fanime," given extremely well by Madame -Denis, Madame Constant-Pictet, Mademoiselle de Basincourt and Voltaire -himself. She describes him thus: "Voltaire was dressed in a way which -was enough to make one choke with amusement; he wore huge culottes -which came down to his ankles, a little vest of red silk embroidered -with gold; over this vest a very large vest of magnificent material, -white embroidered in gold and silver; it was open at one side so as to -show the undervest and on the other it came down below the knee; his -culottes were of satin cramoisi; over his great vest he wore a kind of -coat of satin with silver, and over the whole a blue mantle _doublé de -cramoisi_ galooned with gold and superb; when he appeared on the stage -many people began to laugh and I was one of them; he had a huge white -beard which he had to readjust several times, and a certain comic look -even in the most tragic passages." - -Madame de Genlis went to Geneva on purpose to call on M. de Voltaire, -though she had no letter to him. He invited her to dinner, and, by a -mistake, she arrived too early. She gives a very entertaining account -of her experiences. One little passage is characteristic: - -"What an effect the presence of such a man as Voltaire must have had -on the pious Genevans may be imagined when this story was told of him. -Shortly after the publication of 'Emile,' Voltaire was discussing -Rousseau's marvellous picture of the sunrise. 'I must try it,' said -he. 'I, too, will go some morning on the top of a mountain; I should -like to know if one is really compelled to adore the Creator at -daybreak.' The necessary preparations were made; they set out at night -and reached just before dawn the Col de la Faucille in the Jura. The -sunrise was splendid.... Voltaire knelt down, gazed in silence and -then said: 'Yes, Creator of heaven and earth, I adore you before the -magnificence of your works.' ... Then getting up, he rubbed his knees -and cried: 'Mais quant à monsieur votre fils et à madame sa mère, je -ne les connais pas!' - -"When Rousseau heard that he became pensive and then said, 'Oh, that -man, that man, he would make me hate the page of my works which I like -best.' - -"When the earthquake at Lisbon shocked the whole world Pastor Vernes -preached a celebrated sermon which led Voltaire to write: 'Sir, it -is said you have written such a beautiful sermon on the event that it -would have been really unfortunate had Lisbon not been destroyed, for -we should have been deprived of a magnificent discourse.'" - -[Illustration: WRESTLING AT A VILLAGE FESTIVAL.] - -Another plan which occupied me in the hours which I consecrated to -regular work was for an article on the village festivals of -Switzerland:--The charming Narcissus Festival of Montreux, celebrated -in May, the great Fête of the Abbé des Vignerons, so fascinatingly -described by Juste Olivier and so cleverly worked by James Fenimore -Cooper into his novel, "The Headsman." It would include processions -through picturesque streets and the rejoicings at the return of the -cows from the Alp with the Ranz des Vaches:-- - - "Blantz et neìre, - Rotz et motaìle, - Dzjoùven et ôtro - Les sonaillire - Van lez premire - La tôte neìre - Van lez derrière: - Hau! hau! llauba!" - -I gathered any quantity of material about Swiss authors and composers: -Jacques Hoffmann, Johanna Spyri, Töpfer, Amiel, Olivier,--none, -perhaps, stars of the first magnitude--unless the Painter Böcklin--but -all interesting. - -When winter came we went to see the winter sports at Saint-Moritz--the -skiing where it was not uncommon for some of the French and Norwegian -champions to leap almost thirty meters. Indeed, one man flew through -the air forty-six meters, but could not keep his balance when he -struck far down the slope. I was not tempted to try it. - -Switzerland in winter is even more beautiful than in summer. The -uniform blanket of dazzling snow, though its curves are filled with -vivid tints of violet and blue, may be hard on the eyes. The mercury -may go low but the purity of the atmosphere and its exhilaration atone -for the discomfort of cold. In the house we kept warm and cozy. The -children were well and happy and I stayed on and on: I could not -resist the Spell. - -THE END. - - - - -BIBLIOGRAPHY - - - ABRAHAM, GEORGE D.: The Complete Mountaineer - - ABRAHAM, GEORGE D.: Mountain Adventures at Home and Abroad - - AGASSIZ, LOUIS: A Journey to Switzerland and Pedestrian Tours - in that Country - - ANTEISSER, ROLAND: Altschweizerische Baukunst - - AUVIGNE, EDMUND B. D': Switzerland in Sunshine and Snow - - BAUDEN, HENRY: Villas et Maisons de Campagne en Suisse - - BERNOWILLI, A.: Balci Descriptio Helvetiae - - BONSTETTEN, ALBRECHT VON: Editor Descriptio Helvetiae - - BURNET, GILBERT: Bishop of Salisbury. Travels or Letters - containing an account of what seemed most remarkable in - Switzerland - - COLLINGS, HENRY: Switzerland as I Saw It - - COOK, JOEL: Switzerland, Picturesque and Descriptive - - COOLIDGE, W. A. B.: Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books - - COOPER, JAMES FENIMORE: Excursions in Switzerland - - DAUZAT, ALBERT: La Suisse moderne - - DUMAS, ALEXANDRE: La Suisse - - EDOUARD, DESOR, and FAVRE, LEOPOLD: Le bel âge du bronze - lacustre en Suisse - - ELTON, CHARLES ISAAC: An Account of Shelley's Visits to - France, Switzerland and Savoy in 1814 and 1816 - - FERGUSON, ROBERT: Swiss Men and Swiss Mountains - - GRIBOLE, FRANCIS: The Early Mountaineers - - GUERBER, HÉLÈNE ADELINE: Legends of Switzerland - - GUILLON, LOUIS MAXIME: Napoleon et la Suisse - - HASLER, FR. and H.: Galerie berühmter Schweizer der Neuzeit. - In Bildern mit biographischem Text von Alfred Hartmann - - HAVERGAL, FRANCES RIDLEY: Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems - - HEER, J. C.: Album der Schweiz: 450 Bildern ... Nach - Schilderungen. Edited by Alexander B. Freiherr von Bergenroth - - HOWARD, BLANCHE WILLIS: One Year Abroad - - HOWELLS, WILLIAM D.: A Little Swiss Sojourn - - ISTRIA, LA COMTESSE DORA D' (Princess Helena - Koltsova-Masalskaya): La Suisse Allemande et l'ascension du - Mönch - - KUHNS, LEVI OSCAR: Switzerland, Its Scenery, History and - Literary Associations - - LERDEN, WALTER: Recollections of an old Mountaineer - - LUBBOCK, SIR JOHN: The Scenery of Switzerland - - LEDUC, VIOLET: Mont Blanc - - MACCRACKAN, WILLIAM D.: Romance and Teutonic Switzerland - - MUMMERY, A. F.: My Climbs in the Alps and the Caucasus - - ORELLI, JOHANN CASPAR VON: Editor Inscriptiones Helvetiae, - Collectae et explicatae - - REY, GUIDO: The Matterhorn. Translated by J. E. C. Eaton - - RICKMERS, W. RICKMER: Ski-ing for Beginners and Mountaineers - - RHYS, ISOBEL L.: The Education of Girls in Switzerland and - America - - ROOK, CLARENCE: Switzerland, the Country and its People - - SAITSCHIK, ROBERT M.: Meister der Schweizerischen Dichtung des - 19. Jahrhunderts - - SCHEUBER, JOSEPH: Die mittelalterlichen Chorstühle in der - Schweiz - - SCHNEIDER, ALBERT: Die neuesten römischen Ausgrabungen in der - Schweiz - - SENNETT, ALFRED RICHARD: Across the Great Saint Bernard - - STEPHEN, LESLIE: The Playground of Europe - - STOCK, E. ELLIOTT: Scrambles in Storm and Sunshine among the - Swiss and English Alps - - STODDARD, FREDERICK WOLCOTT: Tramp through Tyrol - - SYMONDS, JOHN ADDINGTON: Our Life in the Swiss Highlands - - TYNDALL, JOHN: Hours of Exercise in the Alps - - UMLAUFT, F., P. H. D.: The Alps. Translated by Louisa Brough - - USTERIS, MARTIN: Pilatus und St. Dominick unter Benutzung - einer Handschrift - - WEBB, FRANK: Switzerland of the Swiss - - WHYMPER, EDWARD: Scrambles Amongst the Alps - - WOOD, EDITH ELMER: An Oberland Châlet - - ZSIGEMONDY, DR. EMIL: Im Hochgebirge: Wanderungen - - ---- Annuaire du Club Alpin Français - - ---- Geschichte der Vermissungen in der Schweiz, als - historische Einleitung zu den Arbeiten der schweiz. - geodätischen Commission - - ---- Musée cantonal vaudois. Antiquités lacustres. Album - publié par la Société d'histoire de la Suisse romande et la - Société academique vaudoise, avec l'appui du Gouvernement - vaudois - - - - - INDEX - - - Abraham, age of, 433. - - "Abraham's Sacrifice," drama by Theodore de Bèze, 41. - - Acaunum, old name of Saint-Maurice, 340, 341. - - Adams, Charles Francis, at Geneva, 248. - - Addison, Joseph, on the Alps, 223; - makes trip round Lake Leman, 291-294. - - Aeroplane, 279. - - Agassiz, Louis, studies glacial action, 373. - - Agesilaus, hero of Rousseau, 236. - - Aiguille du Midi, 377. - - Aile, Château de l', 120. - - Airolo, captured, 423. - - Aix-les-Bains, 30. - - Alabama claims, settled at Geneva, 247, 248. - - Albano, Lake of, 34. - - Alexander, Father, gives amulets, 265. - - Allalinhorn, ascent of, 368, 369. - - Allemanni, invasions of, 48; - relics of, 269, 441. - - Allobrogi, 208; - attack the Carthaginians, 387; - freedom loving, 433. - - Alpenglow, 11, 147; - described by Javelle, 359; - from Bern, 412. - - Alphubel, the, 369. - - Alpine Club, shelters of the, 362; - Annuaire of, 372. - - Alps, formation of, 12, 13; - description of, 163; - described by Amiel, 184; - time in crossing, 272; - effect on Geneva, 293; - view of, 340, 348, 353; - motion of, 366; - ancient passages of, 382; - from the Lake of Zürich, 441. - - Altorf, 422. - - Amédée VIII, Duc, monument to, at Lausanne, 61. - - Amiel, Henri-Frédéric, quoted, 184, 468. - - Amphion, Spring of, 177. - - Anchor Inn, Byron at, 138. - - Andermatt, capture of, 423. - - Angeville, Mlle. Henriette d', climbs Mont Blanc, 278. - - Annecy, Madame de Warens at, 239; - Rousseau at, 240; - M. Venture at, 243. - - Aoste, 382. - - Apostles, Gate of the (Lausanne Cathedral), 58, 59. - - Ardon, 348. - - Areuse, River, 403. - - Argentière, Mont, seen by Byron, 141, 370, 375. - - Arianna, Musée, treasures of, 269. - - Aristocracy, in Switzerland and Spain, 71. - - Aristotle, hero of Rousseau, 236. - - Arnold, Sir Edwin, poem on Pilatus, 448, 449. - - Arpille, the, 348. - - Art, village of, 309. - - Arval, Mont, 122. - - Arve, River, 123, 162; - junction with the Rhône, 199, 203; - in Coleridge, 329; - in Shelley, 333; - dammed, 375. - - Arveiron, River, 329. - - Aubigné, T. A. d', tablet to, 212. - - Aubonne, M. d', writes a play, 242. - - Aubonne, torrent of, 288. - - Augustus, Emperor, conquers the Wallisi, 343. - - Auldjo, M., shows limit of vision, 273. - - Aulph, Saint Jean d', hamlet of, 183. - - Auvergnier, lake-dwellings at, 16. - - Auvermé, 404. - - Avalanches, 108, 367, 458. - - Avenches, a modern Pompeii, 408. - - Aventicum, relics of, 408. - - Avignon, 30. - - "Avis au Peuple," 312. - - Aymon, Count, bestows Chamonix valley, 371. - - Aztecs and Egyptians, 17. - - - Bacon, Lord, on travel, 323-325. - - Baedecker's Guide-book, 322. - - Bagration, 426, 429. - - Bâle (Basel), 78; - Chatillon at, 251, 404, 439. - - Balfrin, height of the, 352. - - Balgrist, view from the, 440. - - Balmat, Jacques, climbs Mont Blanc, 273-275; - monument to, 374. - - Balme, Grotte de, 217. - - Banc du Travers, 110. - - Barthélemy, Château de Saint, 51. - - Batiaz, La, castle at, 346. - - Baulion, La Dent de, 297, 298, 300. - - Bears of Bern, 411. - - Beaufort, Antoine de, 127. - - _beine_, the, 34, 160, 168. - - Bellegarde, 200. - - Bellinzona, 423. - - Belotte, La, view of, 196. - - Bergues, Hôtel des, 197. - - Bern, robs Lausanne, 60; - takes possession of Lausanne, 63, 72, 78; - government of, 79; - separate from Rome, 126; - persecutes Rousseau, 246; - joins Geneva, 252; - lands of, 263; - receives appeal from Geneva, 267; - owns Vaud, 292; - bandière of, 405; - arcaded streets of, 410; - militarism of, 419. - - Bern, The Headsman of, 110. - - Bernard, Pass of Saint, 123, 342. - - Berthe, Queen, 48. - - Berthold V, founds Bern, 410. - - Betzberg, 423. - - Bevaix, Abbey of, 403, 404. - - Bex, "smiling village" of, 338. - - Bèze, Theodore de, at Lausanne, 40; - at Geneva, 257; - offers prayer, 266. - - Bich, Jean Baptiste, reaches top of Matterhorn, 356. - - Biel, 405. - - Bienne, 78; - lake of, 246, 408. - - Bionnassay, Glacier of, 272. - - Birds of Lake Leman, 194. - - Bise, la, 138, 162. - - Blackie, John Stuart, poem of, 363. - - Blancherose, Doctor, asks inconvenient questions, 64. - - Blécheret, Jacques, city physician at Lausanne, 311. - - Blegno, Val di, 422. - - Bloch, Baron von, war museum, 446. - - Blonay, castle of, 71, 402. - - Blümlisalp, 108, 413. - - Bobbio, Abbey of, 123. - - Bodensee, 434. - - Bois d'Amont, Le, 302. - - Bois de la Bâtie, 204. - - Bolsec, Jerome, gets better of Calvin, 211, 212. - - Bomilcar, King, 383. - - Bonaparte, Joseph, castle of, 288. - - Bonivard, Francis, career, 126, 127; - dungeon of, 131; - character of, 137; - prison of, 154; - at University of Geneva, 250; - petitions Council of University, 256. - - Bonnet, Charles de, influence of, 52. - - Bonneville, 381, 403. - - Bons, M. de, describes rockfall, 190. - - Bonstetten, Karl Viktor von, 52. - - Borgne, the gorge of, 350. - - Bossey, Rousseau at, 228, 236. - - Bossons, Glacier des, 374, 381. - - Boston, at Lausanne, 69. - - Bourbourg, Brasseur de, theory of, 17. - - Bourg, Rue du, 69. - - Bourgoin, 382. - - Bourrit, Marc-Théodore, "Historian of the Alps," 272; - discovers the Col du Géant, 273. - - Boutry, 403. - - Bovannaz, 108. - - Boveret, 154. - - Bozen, 444. - - Bregaglia, rockfall at, 291. - - Brenets, Les, 463. - - Bretigny, Seigneur de, gift of, 51. - - Brévent, Le, climbed by De Saussure, 271. - - Brevoort, Miss, attempts Matterhorn, 356. - - Brienz, 452, 459. - - Brionne, Comtesse de, 315. - - Broccone Pass, 444. - - Brogny, Cardinal Jean de, builds chapel, 213; - attempts to found University of Geneva, 249. - - Brontë, Charlotte, 119. - - Broye, the, 408. - - Brunegghorn, the, 352. - - Brunn, Frederika, "Chamouni at Sunrise," 327. - - Brutus, hero of Rousseau, 236. - - Bryant, William Cullen, describes the Arve, 376. - - Bultogerus, Henricus, 431. - - Bürkli, Karl, leadership of, 21. - - Byron, Lord, criticizes Switzerland, 87; - memories of, 121, 135; - sonnet on Lake of Geneva, 137; - at Sécheron, 137; - excursion with Shelley on Lake Leman, 138; - writes third canto of "Childe Harold," 140; - criticized by "Dora d'Istria," 149; - at Coppet, 281, 286; - at Aubonne, 288; - on music of cowbells, 454. - - - Cæsar, Julius, 208; - names Nyon, 287; - mentions Octodurus, 342. - - Calvaires, 184. - - Calvin, John, banished by Geneva, 65; - burial-place of, 209; - chair of, 211; - adopted by Geneva, 232; - lacks monument, 234; - takes charge of University, 251. - - Calvinism, 72, 75. - - Carcassonne, 29. - - Carrel, Jean Antoine, reaches top of Matterhorn, 356. - - Carrel, Miss, attempts Matterhorn, 356. - - Carthage, destruction of, 382. - - Cassaccia, 422. - - Castillio, driven out of Geneva, 65. - - Cau, Mont, 155. - - Caucasus, the, 32, 33. - - Cenis, Mont, tunnel of, 354; - used by Hannibal (?), 382. - - Cerjat, Gaston de, buys Château de Saint-Barthélemy, 52. - - Cellemberg, Comte de, sings delicious airs, 94. - - Cerlier, 403. - - Cervin, Le, 350; - glimpse of, 354-356; - form of, 357, 369. - - Chambéry, seized by France, 267; - Jean Volat de, 311. - - Chablais, 183; - under Duke of Savoy, 263, 292. - - Chamblais, Province of, 123. - - Chamonix, 185; - summit of, 263, 271; - discovery of, 279, 372; - poems on, 327-336; - name of, 371; - glaciers at, 373; - formation of, 374; - centre of traffic, 377, 451. - - Champéry, starting-point for la Dent du Midi, 185. - - Chandieu, Charles de, 49; - family of, 49, 50; - Catherine de, 51, 465. - - Chanvan, Château de, 305. - - Charlemagne, Emperor, presents Saint-Maurice with ewer and - crozier, 341. - - Charles II, Duke of Brunswick's gift to Geneva, 204; - monument to, 205, 407. - - Charles Emmanuel of Savoy, attacks Geneva, 264; - characterizes his general, 266. - - Charles Augustus, Duke of Weimar, 308. - - Charles the Bold, defeat of, at Grandson, 62, 402-406. - - Charles III, Duke of Savoy, 128. - - Charles IV, Emperor, attempts to found University at Geneva, 249. - - Charrière, Madame de, writes a play, 94; - balloon of, 118, 318; - Professor d'Apples de, 314. - - Chastelard, 403. - - Châtelard, manoir of, 155. - - Chatillon, Sébastien, professor at Geneva, 251. - - Chaumény, mountain, 154. - - Chaumont (at Neuchâtel), 408. - - "Childe Harold," 140. - - Chillon, Castle of, 106, 121, 122-136; - described by Juste Olivier, 146; - finest aspect of, 147; - described by "Dora d'Istria," 154; - mentioned by Rogers, 169; - from La Dôle, 304. - - "Cid, The," performed at Geneva, 258. - - Cité, La (Lausanne), 80. - - Clairmont, Jane, with Shelley at Sécheron, 138. - - Clarens, 121, 155, 161. - - Claude, Canonici of Saint, 302. - - Claudius, makes Octodurus market-town, 344. - - Clavel, arms of, 48. - - Clavière, Etienne, banished from Geneva, 267. - - Cluges, 381. - - Cockburn, Sir Alexander J. E., at Geneva, 247. - - Coire, Russians at, 430. - - Col de la Seigne, 382. - - Col du Midi, 370. - - Coleridge discussed, 327-332, 451. - - Collanges, Avenue de, 37, 40. - - Colombier, 404, 463. - - Combin, Le Grand, 106. - - Comte, Auguste, 30. - - Confignon, Rousseau at, 238. - - Conrad, Duke of Zähringen, builds convent, 401. - - Conrad, Emperor, founds Church of St. Peter at Geneva, 210. - - Concise, lake dwellings at, 432. - - Constance, Lake of, 434. - - Constans, 382. - - Constant de Rebecque, Benjamin, as a musician, 95; - love-affair with Mme. de Staël, 281; - adoration of, 285. - - Constantin Pavlovitch, Grand Duke, 422, 426, 428. - - Coolidge, W. A. B., describes Matterhorn, 357. - - Cooper, James Fenimore, 109; - describes Lake Leman, 110, 111; - on neglected views, 224; - at Geneva, 261; - describes Lake Leman, 262, 467. - - Coppet, Barony of, 84; - mentioned by Rogers, 169; - Madame de Staël at, 280-286. - - Corcelle, 404. - - Cordier, Mathurin, resigns as professor at Geneva, 251. - - "Corinne," 281; - Madame de Staël in character of, 285. - - Cormondrèche, 404. - - Cornaz, Jacques-Daniel, sells Château de l'Isle, 51. - - Corneille, 263. - - Cortailloud, 403. - - Coryat, Thomas, "Crudities" of, 431. - - "Cossacks, The," quoted, 32. - - Côte, Montagne de la, climbed, 272, 274. - - Courland, Pierre de, 317; - at Lausanne, 317. - - Couteau, H., painter, 16. - - Crassy (Crassier), town of, 79. - - Credo, Mont, 305. - - Crêt d'eau (Credo), 185. - - Crêtes, Château des, 121. - - Criant, Pierre, 18, 21, 201, 202, 203. - - Crissier, portrait at Château de, 314. - - Crousaz, Jean Pierre de, "Logic" of, 77. - - Crousaz, Madame de (Montolieu), 321. - - Cully, 119. - - Curchod, Mlle. Suzanne, 79; - her beauty, 80. - - Curchod, Pastor, death of, 82. - - - Dard, Cascade du, 381. - - Daudet, Alphonse, 30. - - David fountain at Bern, 412. - - Davoz-Platz, 444. - - Debate between Catholic and Protestant parties, 63, 64. - - Delilah, 438. - - Dent, Blanche, la, 361. - - Dent du Midi, la, 38; - height of, 66, 105; - description of, 106; - ascent of, 185. - - Devil, Swiss names of the, 220. - - Devil's Bridge, 424; - granite cross at, 430. - - Devonshire, Georgianna, Duchess of, dinner to, 92. - - Dexter, Lord Timothy, example of, 53. - - Deyverdun, Georges, 56; - plays the spinet, 94; - death of, 96; - inspires Gibbon, 98; - society founded by, 68; - early diaries of, 77; - invites Gibbon to Lausanne, 85, 86; - indolence of, 88. - - Diablerets, Les, 45; - dance of Wotan on, 217. - - Diodati, Villa, Byron at, 139. - - Dissentis, 422. - - Dol, town of, 26. - - Dôle, la, 178; - Goethe's ascent of, 295-307. - - Dolomites, the, 9, 401. - - Dom, the, 353. - - Donnerbrühl, 411. - - Dorannaz, 108. - - Douglas, Lord Edward, death of, 355; - body lost, 356. - - Dranse, La, 162, 180; - valley of, 183; - cone of, 193, 342; - overflow of, 346; - robbed by the Rhône, 348. - - Druidical rites, 105. - - Ducommun, Abel, Rousseau's master, 237. - - Dufour, General, places plaques on le Niton, 65; - reckons heights, 66. - - Duluth, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112. - - Dumas, Alexandre, Père, quoted, 103. - - Duvillard, map of, 260. - - - Ecluse, Fort l', 305. - - Edelspitze, the, 353. - - Education of Rousseau, 236; - of French children, 237. - - Egli, Emil, discovers 9th century MS., 340. - - Eiger, the, seen from Bern, 413. - - "Ekkehard," 434. - - Elephants cross the Rhône, 385; - pass the Alps, 391. - - Eliot, George, portrait of, at Geneva, 260. - - Elton, Sir Charles Abraham, translator of Silius Italicus, 394. - - Emerson, Ralph Waldo, parodied, 36; - on travel, 326. - - "Emile," shocks Calvinists, 233, 466. - - Emmenthal, 150. - - Enoch, Louis, Regent of Geneva University, 251. - - Entebüchel, remains at, 440. - - Enville, Duc d', studies glacial action, 372. - - Epaune, destruction of, 187. - - Erlach, Rudolf von, statue to, 411. - - Erlenbach, 221. - - Ermenonville, Rousseau dies at, 246. - - Escalade, fountain of the, 264; - episode of, 264-266. - - Escher, Alfred, autocracy of, 21. - - Escheray, Comte d', trips with Rousseau, 463. - - Estavayer, Catherine de, loved by Otho de Grandson, 60. - - Estavayer, Gérard de, duel with Otho de Grandson, 60. - - Etruscans, perhaps settled Zürich, 433. - - Eugster, Fidèle, aerial railway of, 377. - - Evarts, William M., at Geneva, 248. - - Everest, Mount, 33. - - Evian, Byron and Shelley at, 139; - night at, 177. - - Evionnaz, catastrophe at, 188. - - Eynard, Charles, Life of Dr. Tissot, 13-18. - - - Fairy of Lake Leman, The, 114. - - Falzarego, new road of the, 444. - - "Fanime," Voltaire's play, 465. - - Farel, banished by Geneva, 65. - - Faucigni (Faucigny), mountains of, 263, 296. - - Faucille, Col de la, 466. - - Faulhorn, the, 352. - - Félicité, Col de, 356. - - Felix V, Pope, at Lausanne, 61, 62. - - Ferney, 169, 197, 464. - - Finetta, 218, 337. - - Finsteraarhorn, the, 108; - seen from Bern, 413. - - Fish of Lake Leman, 194. - - Flegère, view from, 381. - - Flims, derivation of, 192. - - Flon, River, 69, 75. - - Flowers of the Alps, 152, 450. - - Fog, Alpine, 156, 177, 299. - - Fontaine, Mme. de, Voltaire's letter to, 464. - - Forces Motrices at Geneva, 199. - - Forclaz, Col de la, 310. - - Forel, M., 34. - - Foron, torrent of, 193. - - Four Cantons, Lake of, 444, 450. - - Franche-Comté, 300, 303, 361. - - François I, court of, 40. - - Fraumünster, the, at Zürich, 436. - - Frederick the Great, 246; - treated by Dr. Tissot, 314. - - Frères Mineurs, Monastery of the, 249. - - Fribourg, Rousseau at, 243; - bandière of, 405; - charm of, 409, 439. - - - Gabelhorn, the, conquered, 353. - - Galba, holds council of war, 342. - - Gallatin, Albert, in America, 256. - - Gallatin, Jean, buys University gardens at Geneva, 256. - - Garnier, comedy by, performed at Geneva, 258. - - Géant, Col de, discovered by Bourrit, 273; - sunset from, 276, 278. - - "Geierstein, Anne of," 173, 180; - tower of, described by Sir Walter Scott, 173-176. - - Geneva, 30, 34, 41, 65; - harbour of, 65, 138; - centre of Calvinism, 73; - typhoid fever at, 113; - children of, 126; - lawsuit with Vaud, 161, 195, 197-267; - pride in Rousseau, 232; - streets of, 246; - Alabama claims settled at, 248; - University of, 249-260; - Constitution of, 267; - described by Addison, 292; - Château de Monnitier, 295; - fog over, 299; - trophy at, 407; - Voltaire at, 464. - - Geneva, Lake of, phenomena of, 109; - described by J. F. Cooper, 110, 111; - depth of, 112; - fairy of, 114; - first steamboat on, 115; - described by Byron, 135; - his sonnet to the lake of Geneva, 137; - described by Dora d'Istria, 150; - in winter, 156; - sunset on, 158; - islands in, 160; - rise of, 161; - winds of, 162; - described by Rogers, 170; - fascinations of, 182; - birds of, 194; - origin of name, 208; - Madame de Staël on, 222; - Rousseau's apostrophe to, 230; - Rousseau's farewell to, 231; - made famous by Rousseau, 246; - described by Cooper, 262; - view from Aubonne, 288; - Addison on, 291; - fog on, 304; - from Madame de Crousaz's, 321; - shores of, 340; - compared with Lake of Zürich, 441. - - Genlis, Madame de, on neglected views, 224; - at Lausanne, 320; - visits Voltaire, 466. - - Genthod, home of scientists, 269, 275. - - Geology, 11, 12, 13, 14, 34, 35, 192, 222, 290, 348. - - Gesner, Konrad von, 40. - - Gex, Bonivard at, 127; - under France, 292, 303. - - Gibbon, Edward, 43, 55; - on caste, 71; - secures a maid-servant, 90; - prestige of, 91; - characterized, 94; - finishes History, 96; - love for nature, 98; - requirements in a wife, 100; - converted to Catholicism, 74; - converted back to Orthodoxy, 77; - trip through Switzerland, 78; - engaged to Suzanne Curchod, 81, 82; - letter about the Neckers, 84; - fame of, 85; - wit of, 86; - aspect of, 88; - manner of life of, 89; - in Byron's sonnet, 137; - mentioned by Rogers, 169; - reports political situation of Geneva to Lord Sheffield, 267; - and the Neckers, 280; - nickname of, 281; - dances the minuet, 318. - - Giessbach, 452. - - Glaciers, 187, 275, 357, 358, 365; - action of, studied, 372, 373, 374, 375, 456. - - Glarus, stones from, 221, 427; - captured, 429. - - Gloucester, Duke of, at Lausanne, 317. - - Gobbera Pass, 444. - - Gobelin tapestries, 49. - - Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 159, 263; - asks advice of De Saussure, 277, 307; - climbs La Dôle, 295-307; - helps Schiller, 451. - - Goldau, 308, 309. - - Goliath, 412, 418. - - Gorner glacier, 351, 359; - grat, 364; - avalanche from, 367. - - Göschenen Valley, 423. - - Gothard, Saint (Gotthard), R. R., 22. - - Goujon, Jean, sculpture of, at Geneva, 255. - - Gourze, Tower of, 48. - - Goutier, Captain, duel with Isaac Rousseau, 236. - - Grammont, Le, 163; - ascent of, 166; - views from, 166, 167. - - Grandson, Otho de, duel of, 60, 61; - castle of, 402; - battle of, 403-407. - - Gräppelen, origin of name, 288. - - Gray, Thomas, 308; - quoted, 453. - - Gregory X, Pope, 58. - - Grenoble, 30. - - Grimsel-Pass, 373, 461. - - Grindelwald, 458, 461. - - Grisons, hotel-keepers of the, 370, 430. - - Gross-Münster at Zürich, 438. - - Grotte, La, bequeathed by Georges Deyverdun, 97; - tower of, 62. - - Gruet, Jacques, tortured, 65. - - Gruyères, shepherds of, 108. - - Gstaad, name of, 287. - - Guibert, Comte de, and Mlle. Necker, 281. - - Guizot, 30. - - Gurten, view from the, 412. - - - Hadloub, poem by, 437. - - Hadow, David, loses life, 355. - - Haller, Albrecht von, influence of, 52. - - Handeck Fall, 461. - - Hannibal, passage of the Alps, 382-399; - boats of, 433. - - Hanno commands troops, 383. - - Hapsburgs, the, 442. - - Harold, Childe, 31. - - Harpe, General F. C. de la, 160, 161; - Ile de la, 160. - - Harvard University, Albert Gallatin at, 256; - like Geneva University, 258. - - Hauk, Minnie, 446. - - Haute-Champagne, 361. - - Havergal, Frances Ridley, describes la Tête Noire, 371. - - Heine, quoted, 11. - - Heliogabalus, Emperor, 208. - - Héloïse, La Nouvelle, 70, 150, 280. - - Helvetia, Eye of, 47. - - Helvetii, capital of the, 408. - - Himalaya, mountains of the, 362. - - Henry IV, 212. - - Hercules, 438. - - Hérens, Val d', 350. - - Hesse-Wartegg, Ernst von, 446. - - Hessians as mercenaries, 69. - - Hetch-Hetchy valley, 202. - - Hobhouse, John Cam, with Lord Byron, 136. - - Hockthorn, the, 455. - - Hogg, Thomas Jefferson, calls Chillon ugly, 124. - - Hohberghorn, the, 352. - - Hoffmann, Jacques, 467. - - Hohentwil, Castle of, 434. - - Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 409. - - Holroyd, Maria, surprised at Gibbon's choice of Lausanne, 90. - - Holroyd, J. B., see Sheffield, Lord. - - Hospinianus, Rodolphus, 431. - - Houghton, Lord, poem on English travellers, 87. - - Huascaran, Mt., 33. - - Hudson, Charles, attains top of Matterhorn, 355. - - Hughes de Pierre, chronicle of, 403-406. - - Hugo, Victor, autograph of, at Chillon, 135; - dislikes Geneva, 206, 266; - describes sunset, 308-310. - - Huns (Saracens) incursion of, 48. - - Huss, John, 435. - - Hutten, Ulrich von, 442. - - Hydro-aeroplane, on Lake Leman, 115, 116, 117. - - Hypsometry, bases of Swiss, 65. - - - Icarus, feelings of, 118. - - Ilanz, 430. - - Illens, family of d', 60. - - Imfeld relief-maps, 364. - - "Indergand, Albin," 421. - - Initiative and referendum, value of, 19, 20. - - Insurance, Workmen's Compulsory, 23. - - Interlaken, 452. - - Isle, Château de l', 49. - - Istria, Dora d', criticizes Lord Byron, 149; - describes Lake Leman, 150-159. - - - Jaman, Dent de, 105, 107, 121. - - Javelle, Etienne, describes a rock-fall, 186-191; - tells about the dragon of the Jorat, 219; - climbs Matterhorn, 356; - describes sunset from Matterhorn, 358. - - Javernaz, 108. - - Jews, prejudice against, 21, 124. - - Johnson, Samuel, refuses to shake hands with a freethinker, 91. - - Jolimont, stones of, 221. - - Jorat, Heights of, 46, 47, 103, 127, 168; - Col de, 186; - dragon of, 219. - - Joseph II, Emperor, secures Dr. Tissot place at Pavia, 314. - - Jost, Haldebrandt, exorcises rockfall, 188. - - Joux, L'Abbaye de, 301. - - Jungfrau, 10, 11, 33, 108; - seen from Le Grammont, 166; - from Bern, 413, 452. - - Jura, the, 46, 79, 93; - at night, 142; - inhabitants of, 163; - seen from Le Grammont, 166; - pine-clad heights of, 171; - forests of, 181; - from Geneva, 255; - torrents of, 280; - character of, 290; - Addison on, 293; - meaning of, 297; - stone from, 346; - profile of, 361; - view of, 401. - - - Kamor, the, 108. - - Kant, Immanuel, 119; - description of Switzerland, 326; - on freedom, 433. - - Kauffman, Angelica, paints portrait of Dr. Tissot, 314. - - Keith, Marshal, welcomes Rousseau, 246. - - Keller, Ferdinand, discoveries of, 432. - - Kilauea, lava-flow on, 55. - - Kinzig pass, Russians in the, 425. - - Kipfen, gorge of, 352. - - Kletsgerberg, 455. - - Klöntalersee, the, 428. - - Kóltsova-Masalskaya, the Princess Helena, criticizes - Lord Byron, 149; - describes Lake Leman, 150-159. - - Köppen, Herr, plays the flute, 95. - - Korsákof, defeated at Zürich, 427. - - Kubel, Nicolas, climbs Matterhorn, 356. - - Kunchinjunga, 33. - - Kunoskephale, meaning of, 107. - - - Lake-dwellers, 16, 17, 34, 161, 432. - - Lambert, Saint, silenced by Rousseau, 232. - - Landeron, 403, 405. - - Langenthal, linen-market of, 79. - - Langern, M. de, 405. - - Laupen, 411. - - Lausanne, 8, 30, 34, 35, 38, 40, 45, 47; - cathedral of, 42, 57, 60, 64, 66; - university of, 40, 42, 43, 45; - name of, 53, 54; - stone of, 57; - subject to Bern, 63, 64; - size of, 69; - education at, 70; - people of, 75, 158; - emigrés at, 89; - forest of, 105; - situation of, 112; - memories of, 121; - mentioned by Rogers, 168; - life in, 182; - Rousseau at, 243; - Mathurin Cordier at, 251; - Addison at, 294; - seen from La Dôle, 296; - Goethe at, 308; - Tissot at, 311-321; - Bishop of, at Fribourg, 409; - hurt by Pilate, 448. - - Lavey, spring discovered at, 187. - - Law, William John, on Hannibal's passage of the Alps, 382. - - Lebrun, Madame, portrait of Madame de Staël, 285. - - Leman, Lake, phenomena of, 109; - described by J. F. Cooper, 110, 111; - depth of, 112; - Fairy of, 114; - first steamboat on, 115; - described by Byron, 135; - in "Childe Harold," 141-145; - described by "Dora d'Istria," 150; - in winter, 156; - sunset on, 158; - islands in, 160; - rise of, 161; - winds of, 162; - described by Rogers, 169; - fascination of, 182; - birds of, 194; - origin of name, 208; - Madame de Staël on, 222; - Rousseau's apostrophe to, 230; - Rousseau's farewell to, 231; - made famous by Rousseau, 246; - described by Cooper, 262; - by Auguste de Sales, 263; - view from Aubonne, 288; - Addison on, 291; - fog on, 304; - from Madame de Crousaz's, 321; - shores of, 340; - compared with Lake Zürich, 441. - - Lessert, family of, own Château de Saint-Barthélemy, 51. - - "Lettres de la Montagne," Rousseau's, cause hubbub in Geneva, 234. - - Liène, crossing of the, 350. - - Limmat, valley of the, 440. - - Lion of Lucerne, 452. - - Lis, Dent de, 108. - - Lisbon, earthquake of, 110, 466. - - Liubomirska, Princess, expelled from Lausanne, 316. - - Lizards at Montreux, 152. - - Loetschberg, tunnel of the, 354. - - London, Lausanne preferred to, 90. - - Lorraine, Prince Louis de, 315. - - Louis le Débonnaire, 122. - - Loup, Plains of La, 62. - - Lovenex, Lake of, 163. - - Lowerz, Lake of, 309. - - Loys, Sebastien Isaac de, 462. - - Lubbock, Sir John, quoted, 12, 13; - on beauty of high snow-fields, 364. - - Lucerne, Lake, 34; - bandière of, 405; - horns of, 406; - lion of, 452. - - Lucerne, City of, 78, 180. - - Luternan, Auguste de, first bailiff of Chillon, 128. - - Luther, Martin, 442. - - Lutin, Salle, treasures of the, 260. - - Lutry, 105, 119. - - Lützelau, Island of, 422. - - - Maeterlinck, Maurice, 94, 126. - - Magenhorn, the, 352. - - Maintenon, Madame de, 213. - - "Manfred," quoted, 455, 457, 458, 459. - - Mannes, Heinrich, founds Library, 436. - - Mannesse, Rüdiger, song books of, 436. - - Mansard, Francois, architect, 49. - - Maracaibo, Lake, piles on, 16, 17. - - Maria Theresa tries to engage Dr. Tissot, 314. - - Marsens, Renée de, 48. - - Martel, Pierre, visits Chamonix, 372. - - Martel, S. A., quoted, 202. - - Martigny, Roman remains at, 342-346; - return to, 370. - - Martin, Tower of Saint, 120; - miracles of, 461. - - Martinach, 307. - - Masséna, 427. - - Matterhorn, 350; - glimpse of, 354; - conquest of, 354-356; - form of, 357, 369. - - Matter-Visp, the, 368. - - Mattmark See, boulder near, 221. - - Maurice, Saint, described by Rogers, 340; - mutiny at, 340-342. - - Mauricius, leader of Thebaean legion, 341. - - Maximilian, Emperor, enrolls legion, 340. - - Mediterranean, the, 35, 46; - not seen from Mont Blanc, 273. - - Meillerie, squall off, 139; - quarries of, 168, 320. - - Mercier, 91. - - Mer de Glace, movement of the, 373. - - Meschersky, Prince, killed, 425. - - Meyringen, 452. - - Mex, estate of, 51. - - Midi, Dent du, 38, 66, 105. - - Milan, 123. - - Milyutin, Nikolaï, quoted, 425, 426. - - Mirage, on Lake Leman, 114. - - Misaucus, Barons of, 287. - - Mischabel, the, 361. - - Mittaghorn, the, 352. - - "Modern Painters," Ruskin's, quoted, 199. - - Moléson, described and sung, 108. - - Moncels, les Sept, 302, 303. - - Mönch, the, seen from Bern, 413. - - Monnetier, Château de, 295. - - Mon Repos, at Lausanne, 317, 464. - - Monrion, château of Voltaire, 463. - - Montagny, Major Georges de Molin de, inherits La Grotte, 97. - - Mont-Allègre, Shelley at, 139. - - Montana, plateau of, 357. - - Mont Blanc, 33, 45, 107, 111; - seen by Byron, 141; - Alpenglow on, 147; - seen from Le Grammont, 166; - described by Rogers, 171; - view of from Geneva, 216; - route to, 271; - curiosities of, 276; - first women to climb, 278; - Bride of, 279; - view from Nyon, 288; - seen from La Dôle, 296, 300; - Coleridge's poem to, discussed, 327-332; - named, 372; - Thomas Moore on, 380. - - Mont Blanc, Quai du (at Geneva), 196, 205. - - Mont du Chat, 382. - - Montet, boulder at, 221. - - Montez, Col des, 370. - - Montgolfier Brothers, balloon of, 118. - - Monthey, boulders near, 222. - - Montigl, origin of name, 287. - - Montolieu, Madame de, 281, 321. - - Montreux, 115, 121, 123; - shops of, 128, 151; - views from, 153; - the Riviera of Switzerland, 459; - Narcissus Festival, 467. - - Montyon, Baron Auget de, at Lausanne, 317. - - Moore, Thomas, poem on Mont Blanc, 380. - - Morat, battle of, 63; - Lake of, 373, 405, 408. - - Morcles, Dent de, 105, 187, 348. - - Morge, the, 161, 348. - - Morges, 289. - - Moritz, Saint, 468. - - Mozon, the River, 178. - - Mulets, les Grands, 378; - les Petits, 274, 279. - - Muotta, the, 425, 428. - - Murray, John, Byron's letter to, 140. - - Muveran, le Grand, 45. - - - Naegueli, Jean François, takes possession of Lausanne, 64. - - Napoleon, called a Genghis Khan, 95; - reviews army, 96; - mentioned by Rogers, 171, 288, 391; - foresight of, 417; - a myth, 451. - - Napoleon III, 204. - - Narcissus Festival, 467. - - Naye, Rochers de, 105, 107. - - Necker, Jacques, marries Mlle. Suzanne Curchod, 84; - Director of Treasury of France, 85; - purchases barony of Coppet, 280. - - Nemi, Lake of, 34. - - Nernier, 195; - la Pointe de, 110. - - Neuburg, Lake of, 305. - - Neuchâtel, lacustrians of, 18, 78; - meeting at, 373; - troops at, 403; - gift to, 407. - - Neuchâtel, Lake of, 34, 178, 402; - ghost of, 217; - mountains of, 300. - - Neuhaus, 456. - - Ney, Marshal, 266. - - Niagara Falls, 203, 377, 452, 462. - - Nice, route to, 369. - - Niège, Crêt de la, 178. - - Niton, Pierre de, 223. - - Noir Mont, 297, 299, 301, 303. - - Noirmontier, Island of, 23. - - North Sea, 35. - - Novel, 162, 163. - - Novi, battle of, 421. - - Nozon, the, 47. - - Nyon, origin of name, 287; - poem on, 288; - Addison at, 295, 307. - - - Oberalp Lake, 422, 423. - - Oberhasli, Valley of, 459. - - Oberland, Bernese, 306, 370, 460. - - Oche, la Dent d', 163. - - Octodurus, old name of Martigny, 342; - captured by Romans, 343. - - Oelenschlæger, Adam Gottlob, 285. - - Oeningen, fossils of, 15. - - Oeusannaz, 108. - - Oex, Château d', 455. - - Olivier, Juste, Swiss poet, quoted, 67, 68, 108; - describes Chillon, 146; - describes the Rhône, 336-338; - advises Alpine climbing, 339; - describes les Vignerons, 467, 468. - - Omar Khayyâm, 41, 408. - - Omblière, fishing-bank of, 154. - - Orbe, the River, 401. - - Ordre du Collège, at Geneva, 257. - - Orlof, Prince Gregory, at Lausanne, 316. - - Orlova, Princess, tomb of, at Lausanne, 61. - - Ortler, the, 361. - - Ouchy, 36, 103; - Byron at, 138; - waves at, 162. - - Oxford, expels Gibbon, 74. - - - Paccard, Dr. Michel, reaches top of Mont Blanc, 274; - unjust claims of, 275. - - Pache, Samuel (Gibbon's protégé), 90. - - Paderewski, Ignaz, villa of, 446. - - Palermo, 445. - - Palmer, Sir Roundel, at Geneva, 248. - - Panixer Pass, snow on, 429. - - Paudèze, valley of the 104. - - Paul, Grand Duke of Russia, at Lausanne, 317. - - Pavilliard, Daniel, character of, 75; - discussions with, 77; - letter to Mrs. Porten, 78. - - Pavilliard, Madame Carbonella, meanness of, 75. - - Peacock, Thomas Love, Byron's letter to, 139, 140. - - Peilz, Tour de, 121; - Ilot de, 160. - - Pélerin, Mont, 48. - - Perrinists, enemies of Calvin, 252. - - Perte du Rhône, La, 201. - - Pestalozzi, Johann Heinrich, school of, 402. - - Peter, Church of Saint, Geneva, 210. - - Petrarca, 30. - - Peyron, M. du, botanist, 463. - - Pezay, Marquis de, apostrophe of, 419. - - Pfyn, 351. - - Pheidippides, 410. - - Philippe II, threatens Geneva, 252. - - Phillipin, Syndic of Geneva, pays fine, 253. - - Pichard, Adrien, bridge of, 56. - - Pictet de la Rive, François Jules, 269; - Raoul, 270. - - Pierra-Portay, tombs at, 104. - - Pierre, Count of Savoy, 121; - fortifies Chillon, 123; - at Chillon, 146. - - Pierre Pointue, 378. - - Pierre à Voire, view from, 348. - - Pilate, legend of, 448. - - Pilatus, Mont, 180; - sunset behind, 308; - proverb about, 447. - - Pitt, William, might have married Mademoiselle Necker, 281. - - Piz Corvatsch, 444. - - Piz della Marga, 444. - - Piz Grialetsch, 444. - - Piz Güz, 444. - - Piz Kesch, 444. - - Piz Michel, 444. - - Piz Vadret, 444. - - Plainpalais, cemetery of, 204; - origin of name, 209. - - Planches, Les, 155. - - Plater, Count Broel-, founds Polish Museum, 442. - - Po, plain of the, 393. - - Pococke-Windham party discovers Chamonix, 372. - - Polybius, on Hannibal, 382; - describes passage of Alps, 383-393. - - Polytechnikum at Zürich, view from, 437. - - Pomponius, Titus, altar of, 346. - - Pont, Le, village of, 298, 299, 301. - - Pontareuse, 403. - - Pontresina, origin of name, 434. - - Pontverre, M. de, attempts to convert Rousseau, 239. - - Pope's Guard, 69. - - Pordoi, new road of the, 444. - - Potocka, Countess, patient of Dr. Tissot, 315; - head-dress of, 316. - - Poudrière, Academie de la, 80. - - Prangins, Château de, 288. - - Pregny, 269. - - Printemps, Société du, 80. - - Promenthoux, torrent of, 288. - - "Punica," quoted, 393. - - Purry, David de, gift to Neuchâtel, 407. - - Pyremont, 200. - - - Quebec, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112. - - - Racine, 263. - - Randa, 353. - - Ranz des Vaches, 467. - - Rapperswyl, 442. - - Rasse, La, overwhelmed, 189; - procession at, 191. - - Ravoire, inscription at, 346. - - Raynal, Abbé, 91. - - Redcliffe, Lady Henrietta Stratford de, 61. - - Redon, Torrent of, 193. - - Reichenbach, Falls of the, 459. - - René, Duke of Lorraine, 411. - - Reuss, the, 423. - - Rheinfelden, battle of, 213. - - Rhentelin, archers of, 403. - - Rhine, the, 47, 178, 192; - falls of, 435. - - Rhône, the, 30, 45, 47; - current of, 109, 138, 141, 144, 161; - les troublons du, 113; - delta of, 167; - la correction du, 168; - valley of, 186; - blocked, 188, 191; - junction with the Arve, 199, 204; - damming of, 200; - La Perte du, 201; - boulder near, 222; - view of, 264; - guided by Providence, 294; - described by Juste Olivier, 336-338; - leap from the Alps, 340; - as a robber, 348; - view of, 351; - might of, 351; - Les Iles du, 337; - colour of, 377; - crossed by Hannibal, 383-387; - Hannibal's boats, 433; - refuses Pilate's body, 448. - - Riddes, 348. - - Rigi-Kulm, 130, 132; - Goethe at, 308, 450. - - Rimpfischhorn, the, 369. - - Rinegg, origin of, 287. - - Ripaille, hermitage of, 180. - - Riponne, Place de la, 40. - - Ritz, Raphael, discovers Roman remains, 344. - - Rivers, names of, 54. - - Rocca, Albert de, marries Madame de Staël, 282. - - Roche, Jean, prints Calvin's "Institution," 253. - - Rochemont, Sieur de, punished at Geneva, 259. - - Rochers Rouges, 273. - - Rock-falls, 185, 193, 291. - - Rodolphe, Duke of Hapsburg, invades Vaud, 123. - - Rogers, Samuel, on Lake Leman, 169; - on Rousseau, 238; - on the Hospice of St. Bernard, 395-399. - - Rohan, Duke of, buried at Geneva, 213. - - Rolle, 289; - road of the, 444; - waters of, 312. - - Rome, Gibbon's journey to, 83. - - Ropraz, Château de, 48. - - Roquemaure, 382. - - Rosa, Monte, 359. - - Rosenberg, Lieutenant-General, bivouacs on Alps, 422; - drives French, 423; - protects the Russian rear, 425; - master-stroke of, 429. - - Roset, Michel, reads Ordre du Collège at Geneva, 257. - - Rossberg, 309. - - Rosstock, the, 425. - - Rothhorn, the, 352, 361. - - Rothschild, Château, 269. - - Rousseau, Isaac, character of, 235; - duel with Captain Goutier, 236. - - Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, influence of, 52, 119; - memories of, 121, 135; - mentioned in Byron's sonnet, 137; - criticized by "Dora d'Istria," 149; - "Fraternité cup," invented by, 183; - Ile Rousseau, 197; - lover of Nature, 222, 228; - invitation to Switzerland, 225; - description of sunrise, 227, 466; - recipe for mountain-climbing, 229; - apostrophe to Lake Leman, 230; - farewell, 231; - silences Saint-Lambert, 232; - criticizes Voltaire, 233; - books burned, 234; - birth-place marked, 235; - education of, 236; - converted to Catholicism, 239; - writes "Narcisse," 242; - at Vevey, 245; - at Geneva, 245; - driven out of Neuchâtel, 246; - describes the Escalade, 266; - influence of, 282; - track of, 462; - trips with Comte d'Escheray, 463. - - Rousses, Lac des, 299, 302, 303. - - Route des Alpes, La, 369. - - Rubli, Le, 108; - supernatural beings of, 221. - - Rumine, Palais de, 40, 42. - - Ruskin, John, describes the Rhône, 199. - - - Saanen, fame of, 455, 456. - - Saas-Fee, 368, 369. - - Saasgrund, 368. - - Saastal, 368. - - Saint-Barthélemy, glen of, 186, 188, 189. - - Saint-Bernard, rocks from, 65, 382; - Rogers's poem on, 395-399. - - Sainte-Beuve, Ch. Aug. describes life at Coppet, 282. - - Saint-Cergue, 295, 306, 307. - - Saint-Gingolph, 154, 161, 162. - - Saint-Gingoux, Byron and Shelley at, 140. - - Saint-Lambert, silenced by Rousseau, 232. - - Saint-Laurent, Place de, view of Lausanne Cathedral from, 66. - - Saint-Leonard, 357. - - Saint-Maurice, curé of, 188; - ancestry of, 340, 382, 391. - - Saint Michel de la Cluse, Abbey of, 371. - - Saint-Niklaus, 353. - - Saint-Sulpice, Grove of, 95, 96, 289. - - Saint-Theodore, founds Abbey of Saint-Maurice, 341. - - Salanfe, Herdsmen of, 219. - - Sales, Auguste de, describes view of Lake Leman, 263. - - Sales, Saint Francis de, life of, 263. - - Salève, the, 261, 264. - - Sallanches, Canons of, 371, 372. - - Samson, 438. - - Sand, George, at Chillon, 135. - - San Francisco, vandals of, 202. - - Saracens, remains of, 434. - - Sarine, River, 60, 409; - described by Byron, 455. - - Sarnen, 452. - - Sarraz, La, 178. - - Satan, works of, 221. - - Saules, Sentier des, 203. - - Saulnier, see Sonier. - - Saussure, Horace-Bénédict de, measures Leman tides, 110; - sketch of, 271, 272; - describes sunset, 276; - receives visit from Goethe, 277, 307; - visits Chamonix, 372. - - Sauvebelin, forest of, 105. - - Savoy, mountains of, 53; - conquered by Bern, 128; - peaks of, 156; - Forbes's Travels in, 222; - seen from Geneva, 255; - French invade, 267; - becomes part of France, 268; - in haze, 289; - seen by Goethe, 296; - Alps of, 339; - glaciers of, 372. - - Saxon, Castle of, 348. - - Scala, Princes della, 205. - - Schächental, the, 425, 430. - - Schadau, Castle of, 456. - - Scheffel, Viktor von, 434. - - Schiller, Friedrich von, quoted, 218; - compared to Goethe, 263; - never in Switzerland, 451. - - Schlegel, August W. von, at Coppet, 281; - describes Madame de Staël, 284. - - Schneffer, Counsellor, letter to, 284. - - Schwarzhorn, the, 352. - - Schwyz, bandières of, 405, 425, 428. - - Sclopis, Count Federigo, arbitrator of Alabama claims, 248. - - Scott, Sir Walter, never in the Alps, 173; - quotation from "Anne of Geierstein," 173-176. - - Seattle, compared in latitude to Lausanne, 112. - - Sécheron, Shelley at, 138. - - Seduni, hold pass, 342. - - Seedorf, 425. - - Seiches, les, explanation of, 109, 110. - - Selli, gorge of, 353. - - Serfs, French, 302. - - Servetus, 41; - burnt at stake, 65, 246. - - Seti, Gregorio, describes Geneva, 207; - on St. Peter's Church, 211, 213; - on fishing, 214. - - Setirg Dörfli, 444. - - Sévery, Salamon de Charrière de, 51. - - Sévery, Madame de, letters of, 182; - treated by Dr. Tissot, 313. - - Sheffield, Lord, 84, 86; - receives letter from Gibbon, 267. - - Shelley, Percy Bysshe, at Chillon, 135; - at Sécheron, 138; - poem "Mont Blanc" discussed, 328-336. - - Siebenthal, 405. - - Sierre, 357, 352. - - Signal, the (Lausanne), 44, 53, 317. - - Silberhorn, the, 108. - - Silius Italicus, poem on Hannibal, 393-394. - - Sils, 444. - - Simmenthal, 456. - - Simplon, tunnel of, 45, 354. - - Sion, Bishop of, exorcises a rock-fall, 188. - - Sion, three-legged horse of, 217; - Goethe at, 308; - castles at, 346. - - Soleure, 78, 405; - trophy at, 407. - - Solothurn, mountains of, 300, 305; - martyrdoms at, 341. - - Sonchaud, 155. - - Sonchaux, Mont, 122. - - Sonier, Antoine, directs "Grande Eschole" at Geneva, 250; - heckled by the Council, 251. - - Splügen Pass, 430. - - Spyri, Johanna, 468. - - Staël, Madame de, mentioned in Byron's sonnet, 137; - mentioned by Rogers, 169; - cares little for scenery, 222; - at Coppet, 280-286. - - Staël-Holstein, Baron de, marries Mlle. Necker, 281. - - Stalden, 352, 368. - - Stamepfli, Jacob, arbitrator of Geneva claims, 248. - - Staubbach, the, 200, 452; - described by Byron, 456, 457. - - Stockalper, Kaspar, builds canal, 166. - - Stockhorn, the, 108. - - Stoves, tiled, 8, 39. - - Strassbourg, mourning in, 417. - - Sudois, Le, wind on Lake Leman, 195. - - Sugana, Val, 444. - - Sully, Duc de, scheme of, 213. - - Suvórof, Field-Marshal, passage of the Alps, 420-430. - - Swiss, characteristics of the, 47; - freedom of, 167. - - Symonds, John Addington, 444. - - - Talent, the River, 401. - - Tanay, lake of, 163. - - "Tancrède," played at Coppet, 283. - - Tartarin de Tarascon, 30; - at Chillon, 128, 129. - - Täsch, village of, 353. - - Täschhorn, the, 352. - - Taugwalder, guides, 355. - - Taurus, Mont, fall of, 187. - - Tavernier, J. Baptiste, builds château at Aubonne, 289; - on Switzerland, 223, 224. - - Tell, William, a myth, 129, 451. - - Tendre, Mont, 49, 178. - - Tenevière, described, 161. - - Tennyson, Alfred, quoted, 117; - on Monte Rosa, 367. - - Territe, 121. - - Tête Noire, described, 370, 371. - - Tevent, Hill of, 352. - - Thebaean Legion, 340, 341. - - Theodorus, Bishop, 347. - - Théodule glacier, 359; - pass, 347. - - Thièle River, 401. - - Thonon, wines of, 182; - beauty of, 183. - - Thun, 460. - - Thun, Lake of, 413, 456. - - Ticknor, George, at Coppet, 281. - - Tinère, torrent of, 122. - - Tines, Passage des, 375. - - Tissot, Dr. Auguste, 91; - sketch of, 311-321; - house of, 464. - - Toepfer, R., novels of, 415, 450. - - Toggenburg, Count Krafto von, 436. - - Tolstoï, Count L. N., 340, 418. - - Totensee, der, 461. - - Touguës, Port de, 195. - - Tourbillon, Château de, 348. - - Trebbia, battle of the, 421. - - Treytorrens, M. de, lover of music, 244. - - Trient, les Gorges du, 307, 370. - - Trifthorn, the, 352. - - Trilex, 295. - - Triphon, Saint, once an island, 104. - - Trois Arbres, Les, expedition to, 264. - - Troublons du Rhône, les, 113. - - Trümmelbach, 200. - - Tunnels, 354. - - Turin, Rousseau at, 242. - - Turner, J. F. T., depicts Switzerland, 168. - - Turretini, engineer of Geneva, 199. - - Tyndall, Professor, conquers the Weisshorn, 353-356. - - Typhoid fever at Geneva, 113. - - Tyrol, trip to the, 443. - - - Ufenau, Island of, 442. - - Unterwald, 405. - - Urner Loch, 423, 462. - - Urserental, 374. - - Ury, trumpet of, 406. - - Usteri, Léonard, poem by, 230. - - - Valais, giants of le, 361. - - Valeria, Castle of, 349. - - Vapours, origin of, 230. - - Vaud, Pays de, 68; - aristocracy of, 71; - women of, 152; - landscapes of, 230; - meaning of, 287; - under Bern, 291. - - Vaumarcus, 406. - - Venezuela, 16, 17. - - Venice, beginnings of, 17. - - Venoge, the River, course of, 178. - - Veragri, hold pass, 342. - - Veraye, torrent of, 122. - - Vergil, 393. - - Vernes, sermon of Pastor, 467. - - Vernet, Jacob, writes Rousseau, 234. - - Vernex, 116, 118, 121; - gulf of, 157. - - Verraux, Rochers de, 105. - - Versonnex, François de, endows High School at Geneva, 249. - - Vevey, 103, 119; - misfortunes of, 120; - possesses Chillon, 128; - mentioned by Rogers, 169; - from La Dôle, 304, 344. - - Vevey-La-Tour, 120. - - Veveyse, torrent of, 123. - - Veytaux, 155, 156, 157. - - Victor Amédée of Savoy, 181. - - Victor, Priory of Saint, 126. - - Vienna, Pilate at, 448. - - Vienne, 382. - - Views, mountain, 44, 53. - - Vignerons, Abbaye des, 467. - - Villeneuve, 147, 161, 168, 336. - - Villette, 119. - - Vinet, Alexandre Rodolphe, 41, 42. - - Viollet-le-Duc, 42. - - Viret, Pierre, 40; - wins debate, 64. - - Viso Alps, 361. - - Visp, the, 350, 352, 353. - - Voirons, the, view from, 261. - - Voltaire, 49, 85, 119; - mentioned in Byron's sonnet, 137, 197; - neglects view, 222; - criticized by Rousseau, 233; - at Ferney, 282; - example of, 460; - theatrical ventures of, 463; - letters from, 464; - dress of, 465; - prayer of, 466; - mocks Pastor Vernes, 467. - - Vouvry, 166. - - Vuache, Mont, 305. - - Vuarnen, Château de, 295. - - Vully, 403. - - - Waalwyck, Madame de, gives a concert, 94. - - Wahlenstadt, 287. - - Waite, Morrison, at Geneva, 248. - - Waldmann, improves Cathedral of Zürich, 439. - - Walker, Miss Lucy, climbs Matterhorn, 356. - - Walla, Count, 123. - - Wallensee, 427. - - Wallisi, hold the Dranse, 342; - put to flight, 343. - - Warens, Madame de, 72; - robs her husband, 239; - gets money from Rousseau, 245, 462. - - War Museum at Lucerne, 446. - - Waserus, Gaspar, 431. - - Washington, 352. - - Weather proverbs, 102. - - Weisshorn, view of the, 351, 361. - - Welch, origin of, 287. - - Wengern Mountain, 457. - - Werner, Zacharias, at Coppet, 284; - letter to Counsellor Schneffer, 284, 285; - characteristics of, 285. - - Wetterhorn, 457. - - Wetzikon, Elizabeth von, 437. - - Wetzweil, 221. - - Weyrother, Colonel, a poor guide, 422. - - Whymper, Edward, climbs the Matterhorn, 355. - - Winterthür, 39. - - Wordsworth, quoted, 3. - - Würtemburg, Duchess of, appears at a picnic, 95. - - - Yolande, Duchess of Savoy, 62. - - Yverdon, 35, 78, 401. - - Yvoire, Point d', 193; - beauty of, 194, 195. - - - Zahn, Ernst, 421. - - Zähringen, Berthold V, of, 41. - - Zähringen, Conrad, Duke of, 402. - - Zähringen-Kyburg, Castle of, 460. - - "Zaïre," 464; - played at Coppet, 283. - - Zauchet, giant ox of, 217. - - Zeppelin dirigible, 45. - - Zermatt, blue-haired donkey of, 217; - views from, 354. - - Zermettje, châlets of, 353. - - Zug, Lake of, 309. - - Zürich, politics in, 21, 23, 78; - receives appeal from Geneva, 267; - martyrdoms at, 341; - bandières of, 404; - visit to, 414-420, 431-443; - battle of, 419, 440. - - Zürich, Lake of, 150; - colour of, 441. - - Zwingli, 435, 442. - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - -Author's spelling and punctuation retained. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Spell of Switzerland, by Nathan Haskell Dole - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND *** - -***** This file should be named 41153-8.txt or 41153-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41153/ - -Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/41153-8.zip b/41153-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 753c5d5..0000000 --- a/41153-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/41153-h.zip b/41153-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3ee3ad4..0000000 --- a/41153-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/41153-h/41153-h.htm b/41153-h/41153-h.htm index 3c0ae48..1541796 100644 --- a/41153-h/41153-h.htm +++ b/41153-h/41153-h.htm @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> @@ -333,45 +333,7 @@ </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's The Spell of Switzerland, by Nathan Haskell Dole - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Spell of Switzerland - -Author: Nathan Haskell Dole - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41153] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND *** - - - - -Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41153 ***</div> <hr class="chap" /> @@ -7778,7 +7740,7 @@ spread its bright green pasturage.</p> the first Lausanne physician to attract patients from abroad. In the Sixteenth Century a Jean Volat de Chambéry, after having been a Protestant minister at Lonay, practised medicine and became famous, -and in 1543 Jacques Blécheret was named médecin to the city. But all +and in 1543 Jacques Blécheret was named médecin to the city. But all before or since were insignificant compared to the great Dr. Tissot, whom a well-known lady of his day in her enthusiasm called the god of medicine. My nephew declared that his very name carried with it a @@ -14066,387 +14028,6 @@ vaudois</p></blockquote> <p>Author's spelling and punctuation retained.</p> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Spell of Switzerland, by Nathan Haskell Dole - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND *** - -***** This file should be named 41153-h.htm or 41153-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41153/ - -Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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