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diff --git a/41150-0.txt b/41150-0.txt index 00079c1..874268b 100644 --- a/41150-0.txt +++ b/41150-0.txt @@ -1,26 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal, by -William Beckford - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal - -Author: William Beckford - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41150] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41150 *** Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was @@ -14862,366 +14840,4 @@ Marchioness of Cogolhudo, Duchess of San Estévan, &c. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal - -Author: William Beckford - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41150] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's note: This etext, which includes the two volumes, attempts -to replicate the printed book as closely as possible. Obvious errors in -spelling and punctuation have been corrected. A list follows the etext. -The archaic spelling of words used by the author (chesnuts, befel, -visiters, cotemporary, woful, etc.) has not been corrected or modernized -by the etext transcriber. Footnotes have been moved to the end of the -text body. - - - - -ITALY; - -WITH SKETCHES OF - -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF "VATHEK." - -THIRD EDITION. - -IN TWO VOLUMES. - -VOL. I. - -LONDON: -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, -Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. -1835. - - - - -ADVERTISEMENT. - - -Some justly admired Authors having condescended to glean a few stray -thoughts from these Letters, which have remained dormant a great many -years; I have been at length emboldened to lay them before the public. -Perhaps, as they happen to contain passages which persons of -acknowledged taste have honoured with their notice, they may possibly be -less unworthy of emerging from the shade into daylight than I imagined. - -Most of these Letters were written in the bloom and heyday of youthful -spirits and youthful confidence, at a period when the old order of -things existed with all its picturesque pomps and absurdities; when -Venice enjoyed her piombi and submarine dungeons; France her bastile; -the Peninsula her holy Inquisition. To look back upon what is beginning -to appear almost a fabulous era in the eyes of the modern children of -light, is not unamusing or uninstructive; for, still better to -appreciate the present, we should be led not unfrequently to recall the -intellectual muzziness of the past. - -But happily these pages are not crowded with such records: they are -chiefly filled with delineations of landscape and those effects of -natural phenomena which it is not in the power of revolutions or -constitutions to alter or destroy. - -A few moments snatched from the contemplation of political crimes, -bloodshed, and treachery, are a few moments gained to all lovers of -innocent illusion. Nor need the statesman or the scholar despise the -occasional relaxation of light reading. When Jupiter and the great -deities are represented by Homer as retiring from scenes of havoc and -carnage to visit the blameless and quiet Ethiopians, who were the -farthest removed of all nations, the Lord knows whither, at the very -extremities of the ocean,--would they have given ear to manifestos or -protocols? No, they would much rather have listened to the Tales of -Mother Goose. - -London, June 12th, 1834. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE FIRST VOLUME. - - -THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY. - -LETTER I. - -Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet -and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The -Place de Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, -contrasted with the tumult and uproar of London. Page 3 - - -LETTER II. - -Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur -Van Lencren's collection.--The Canon Knyff's house and -gallery of paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic -felicity.--Revisit the cathedral.--Grand service in honour of -Saint John the Baptist.--Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist's -astonishing flashes of execution.--Evening service in the -cathedral.--Magical effect of the music of Jomelli.--Blighted -avenues.--Slow travelling.--Enter the United Provinces.--Level -scenery.--Chinese prospects.--Reach Meerdyke.--Arrival at the Hague. 14 - - -LETTER III. - -The Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings.--Temptation -of St. Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by -Berghem and Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable -productions of the Indies.--Enamelled flasks of oriental -essences.--Vision of the wardrobe of Hecuba.--Disenchantment.--Cabinet -of natural history.--A day dream.--A delicious morsel.--Dinner -at Sir Joseph Yorke's.--Two honourable boobies.--The Great -Wood.--Parterres of the Greffier Fagel.--Air poisoned by the -sluggish canals.--Fishy locality of Dutch banquetting -rooms.--Derivation of the inhabitants of Holland.--Origin -and use of enormous galligaskins.--Escape from damp alleys -and lazy waters. 24 - - -LETTER IV. - -Leave the Hague.--Leyden.--Wood near Haerlem.--Waddling -fishermen.--Enter the town.--The great fair.--Riot -and uproar.--Confusion of tongues.--Mine hostess. 32 - - -LETTER V. - -Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht--Country-houses and -gardens.--Neat enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies -and Lapdogs.--Arrival at Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The -woods.--Shops.--Celestial love.--Musical -Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht. 35 - - -LETTER VI. - -Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy -saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal -depredators.--Arrival at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three -Wise Sovereigns.--Peregrinations of their beatified bones.--Road -to Bonn.--Delights of Catholicism.--Azure mountains.--Visionary -palaces. 39 - - -LETTER VII. - -Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn -to Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A -winding valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A -supposed Apparition.--A little sequestered Paradise. 47 - - -LETTER VIII. - -Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A -Storm.--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village -of Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited -plains on its margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the -Town.--Pomposities of the Town House. 53 - - -LETTER IX. - -Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand Fair at -Munich.--The Elector's country palace.--Court Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden -and tea-room.--Hoydening -festivities there.--The Palace and Chapel.--Gorgeous riches -of the latter.--St. Peter's thumb.--The Elector's collection -of pictures.--The Churches.--Hubbub and confusion -of the Fair.--Wild tract of country.--Village of Wolfrathshausen.--Perpetual -forests.--A Tempest.--A night -at a cottage. 63 - - -LETTER X. - -Mittenwald.--Mountain chapels.--Saint Anna's young -and fair worshippers.--Road to Inspruck.--Maximilian's -tomb.--Vast range of prospects.--A mountain torrent.--Schnberg. 73 - - -LETTER XI. - -Steinach.--Its torrent and gloomy strait.--Achievements -of Industry.--A sleepy Region.--Beautiful country round -Brixen. 84 - - -ITALY. - -LETTER I. - -Bolsano.--Indications of approaching Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance -of the Peasantry.--A forest Lake.--Arrive -at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the Venetian -State.--Gorgeous Flies.--Fortress of Covalo.--Leave the -country of crags and precipices and enter the territory -of the Bassanese.--Groves of olives and vines.--Classic appearance -of Bassano.--Happy groups.--Pachierotti, the -celebrated singer.--Anecdote of him. 89 - - -LETTER II. - -Villa of Mosolente.--The route to Venice.--First view -of that city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning -scene on the grand canal.--Church of Santa -Maria della Salute.--Interesting group of stately buildings.--Convent -of St. Giorgio Maggiore.--The Redentore--Island -of the Carthusians. 97 - - -LETTER III. - -Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals -formerly celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The -Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossal -Statues.--Giants' Stairs.--Fit of enthusiasm.--Evening-scene -in the great Square.--Venetian -intrigue.--Confusion of languages.--Madame de Rosenberg.--Character -of the Venetians. 111 - - -LETTER IV. - -Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary -shore.--Scene of the Doge's nuptials with the sea.--Return -to the Place of St. Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles -for anonymous accusations.--The Council of Ten.--Terrible -punishments of its victims.--Statue of Neptune.--Fatal -Waters.--Bridge of Sighs.--The Fondamenti Nuovi.--Conservatory -of the Mendicanti.--An Oratorio.--Profound -attention of the Audience. 123 - - -LETTER V. - -M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings -of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian's -master-piece in the church of San Giovanni -e Paolo.--The distant Euganean hills. 132 - - -LETTER VI. - -Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous -city of Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music -on the inhabitants of the Islands.--Solitary fields infested -by serpents.--Remains of ancient sculpture.--Antique and -fantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Torcello.--San Lorenzo's -chair.--Dine in a Convent.--The Nuns.--Oratorio -of Sisera.--Remarks on the music.--Singing of the Marchetti.--A -female orchestra. 137 - - -LETTER VII. - -Coast of Fusina.--The Brenta.--A Village of Palaces.--Fiesso.--Exquisite -singing of the Galuzzi.--Marietta -Cornaro.--Scenes of enchantment and fascination. 145 - - -LETTER VIII. - -Reveries.--Walls of Padua.--Confused Pile dedicated to -Saint Anthony.--Devotion at his Shrine.--Penitential -Worshippers.--Magnificent Altar.--Sculpture of Sansovino.--Colossal -Chamber like Noah's Ark. 149 - - -LETTER IX. - -Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous -attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini's music.--Another -excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean -hills.--Newly discovered ruins.--High Mass in the great -Church of Saint Anthony.--A thunder-storm.--Palladio's -Theatre at Vicenza.--Verona.--An arial chamber.--Striking -prospect from it.--The amphitheatre.--Its interior.--Leave -Verona.--Country between that town and -Mantua.--German soldiers.--Remains of the palace of the -Gonzagas.--Paintings of Julio Romano.--A ruined garden.--Subterranean -apartments. 153 - - -LETTER X. - -Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge -of the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected -with those mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to -Bologna.--Magnificent Convent of Madonna del Monte.--Natural -and political commotions in Bologna.--Proceed towards -the mountains.--Dreary prospects.--The scenery -improves.--Herds of goats.--A run with them.--Return -to the carriage.--Wretched hamlet.--Miserable repast. 166 - - -LETTER XI. - -A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant -view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the -Gallery.--Relics of ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A -Medusa's head by Leonardo da Vinci.--Curious picture -by Polemberg.--The Venus de Medicis.--Exquisitely -sculptured figure of Morpheus.--Vast Cathedral.--Garden -of Boboli.--Views from different parts of it.--Its resemblance -to an antique Roman garden. 173 - - -LETTER XII. - -Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He -catches cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is -in commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate with -the Singer on his imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill -scenery.--Princely Castle and Gardens of the Garzoni -Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of Ilex.--Endless -bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese -Mansi.--Return to Lucca. 186 - - -LETTER XIII. - -Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The -Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed -to Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of -the Fanale. 198 - - -LETTER XIV. - -The Mole at Leghorn.--Coast scattered over with Watch-towers.--Branches -of rare coral unexpectedly acquired. 200 - - -LETTER XV. - -Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures -by Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt -shown by the Austrians to the memory of the House of -Medici.--Evening visit to the Garden of Boboli.--The -Opera.--Miserable Singing.--A Neapolitan Duchess. 203 - - -LETTER XVI. - -Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend -one of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from -its brow.--Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of -a Princess.--The christening.--Another evening visit to -the woods of Boboli. 209 - - -LETTER XVII. - -Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of -Pine.--Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception -at the Convent.--Wild Glens where the Hermit -Gualbertus had his Cell.--Conversation with the holy -Fathers.--Legendary Tales.--The consecrated Cleft.--The -Romitorio.--Extensive View of the Val d'Arno.--Return -to Florence. 214 - - -LETTER XVIII. - -Cathedral at Sienna.--A vaulted Chamber.--Leave Sienna.--Mountains -round Radicofani.--Hunting Palace of the -Grand Dukes.--A grim fraternity of Cats.--Dreary Apartment. 224 - - -LETTER XIX. - -Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the -Papal territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of -the Lake of Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte -Fiascone.--Inhabited Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations -of Rome. 228 - - -LETTER XX. - -Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the -spacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient -splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherd -huts.--Wretched policy of the Papal Government.--Distant -view of Rome.--Sensations on entering the City.--The -Pope returning from Vespers.--St. Peter's Colonnade.--Interior -of the Church.--Reveries.--A visionary -scheme.--The Pantheon. 230 - - -LETTER XXI. - -Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical -associations.--The -Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain -Groves.--Rock of Circe.--The Appian Way.--Arrive -at Mola di Gaeta.--Beautiful prospect.--A Deluge.--Enter -Naples by night, during a fearful Storm.--Clear -Morning.--View from my window.--Courtly Mob at the -Palace.--The Presence Chamber.--The King and his Courtiers.--Party -at the House of Sir W. H.--Grand Illumination -at the Theatre of St. Carlo.--Marchesi. 240 - - -LETTER XXII. - -View of the coast of Posilipo.--Virgil's tomb.--Superstition -of the Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.--Arial -situation.--A grand scene. 253 - - -LETTER XXIII. - -A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross -the bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous -reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The -Dead Lake.--Wild scene.--Beautiful meadow.--Uncouth -rocks.--An unfathomable gulph.--Sadness induced -by the wild appearance of the place.--Conversation -with a recluse.--Her fearful narration.--Melancholy -evening. 258 - - -LETTER XXIV. - -The Tyrol Mountains.--Intense cold.--Delight on beholding -human habitations. 280 - - -SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. - - -LETTER I. - -First day of summer.--A dismal plain.--Gloomy entrance -to Cologne.--Labyrinth of hideous edifices.--Hotel of Der -Heilige Geist. 285 - - -LETTER II. - -Enter the Tyrol.--Picturesque scenery.--Village of Nasseriet.--World -of boughs.--Forest huts.--Floral abundance. 288 - - -LETTER III. - -Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore -of Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its -deserted appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. 290 - - -LETTER IV. - -Excursion to Mirabello.--Beauty of the road thither.--Madame -de R.'s wild-looking niece.--A comfortable -Monk's nest. 294 - - -LETTER V. - -Rome.--Strole to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.--A -grand Rinfresco.--The Egyptian Lionesses.--Illuminations. 297 - - -LETTER VI. - -The Negroni Garden.--Its solitary and antique appearance.--Stately -Porticos of the Lateran.--Dreary Scene. 299 - - -LETTER VII. - -Naples.--Portici.--The King's Pagliaro and Garden.--Description -of that pleasant spot. 302 - - -GRANDE CHARTREUSE. - -LETTER I. - -Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the -Village of Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance -of the Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--Dark -Woods and Caverns.--Crosses.--Inscriptions. 307 - - -LETTER II. - -Thick forest of beech-trees.--Fearful glimpses of the torrent.--Throne -of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of -the Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched -aisle.--Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.--The -Secretary and Procurator.--Conversation with them.--A -walk amongst the cloisters and galleries.--Pictures of different -Convents of the order.--Grand Hall adorned with -historical paintings of St. Bruno's life. 314 - - -LETTER III. - -Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the -Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The -great Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to -St. Bruno.--Retire to my cell.--Strange writings of St. -Bruno.--Sketch of his Life.--Appalling occurrence.--Vision -of the Bishop of Grenoble.--First institution of the Carthusian -order.--Death of St. Bruno.--His translation. 324 - - -LETTER IV. - -Mystic discourse.--A mountain ramble.--A benevolent -Hermit.--Red light in the northern sky.--Lose my way in -the solitary hills.--Approach of night. 335 - - -LETTER V. - -Pastoral scenery of Valombr.--Ascent of the highest -Peak in the Desert.--Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.--Farewell -benediction of the Fathers. 342 - - -SALEVE. - -LETTER I. - -Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.--Pas d'Echelle.--Moneti.--Bird's-eye -prospects.--Alpine flowers.--Extensive -view from the summit of Saleve.--Youthful enthusiasm.--Sad -realities. 357 - - -LETTER II. - -Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity -of the night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of -Genevese Morality. 366 - - - - -THE LOW COUNTRIES - -AND - -GERMANY. - - -LETTER I. - - Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet and - Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The Place de - Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, contrasted with the tumult - and uproar of London. - - -Ostend, 21st June, 1780. - -We had a rough passage, and arrived at this imperial haven in a piteous -condition. Notwithstanding its renown and importance, it is but a scurvy -place--preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when cast -upwards--swaggering Dutch skippers and mongrel smugglers are the -principal objects they meet with below; and then the whole atmosphere is -impregnated with the fumes of tobacco, burnt peat, and garlick. I -should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances of this seaport -confined only to two senses; but, alas! the apartment above my head -proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds which proceed from it are so -loud and frequent, that a person might think himself in limbo, without -any extravagance. - -In hope of some relief, I went to the Capuchin church, a large solemn -building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again was I -disappointed. There happened to be an exposition of the holy wafer with -ten thousand candles; and whilst half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued -and flourished away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks -gabbled before the altars, a whole posse of devotees, in long white -hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either side. - -This papal piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so -I sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the -evening--for the black huddle of clouds, which the late storms had -accumulated, were all melted away--tempted me to the ramparts. There, at -least, thought I to myself, I may range undisturbed, and talk with my -old friends the breezes, and address my discourse to the waves, and be -as romantic and fanciful as I please; but I had scarcely begun a poetic -apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies -and abbs and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such a -hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to observe the bright tints -of the western horizon, or enjoy those ideas of classic antiquity which -a calm sunset never fails to bring before my imagination. - -Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should -have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of -dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very -outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugarplums and -nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was restored, -and about eleven o'clock I fell into a slumber. My dreams anticipated -the classic scenes of Italy, the proposed term of my excursion. - -Next morning I arose refreshed with these agreeable impressions. No -ideas, but such as Nemi and Albano suggested, haunted me whilst -travelling to Ghent. I neither heard the coarse dialect which was -talking around me, nor noticed the formal avenues and marshy country -which we passed. When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes upon -the dull prospect, and was transported immediately to those Grecian -solitudes which Theocritus so enchantingly describes. - -To one so far gone in the poetic lore of ancient days, Ghent is not the -most likely place to recall his attention; and I know nothing more about -it, than that it is a large, ill-paved, plethoric, pompous-looking city, -with a decent proportion of convents and chapels, monuments, brazen -gates, and gilded marbles. In the great church were several pictures by -Rubens, so striking, so masterly, as to hold me broad awake; though, I -must own, there are moments when I could contentedly fall asleep in a -Flemish cathedral, for the mere chance of beholding in vision the temple -of Olympian Jupiter. - -But I think I hear, at this moment, some grave and respectable personage -chiding my enthusiasm--"Really, sir, you had better stay at home, and -dream in your great chair, than give yourself the trouble of going post -through Europe, in search of places where to fall asleep. If Flanders -and Holland are to be dreamed over at this rate, you had better take -ship at once, and doze all the way to Italy." Upon my word, I should not -have much objection to that scheme; and, if some enchanter would but -transport me in an instant to the summit of tna, anybody might slop -through the Low Countries that pleased. - -Being, however, so far advanced, there is no retracting; and I am -resolved to journey along with Quiet and Content for my companions. -These two comfortable deities have, I believe, taken Flanders under -their especial protection; every step one advances discovering some new -proof of their influence. The neatness of the houses, and the universal -cleanliness of the villages, show plainly that their inhabitants live in -ease and good humour. All is still and peaceful in these fertile -lowlands: the eye meets nothing but round unmeaning faces at every door, -and harmless stupidity smiling at every window. The beasts, as placid as -their masters, graze on without any disturbance; and I scarcely -recollect to have heard one grunting swine or snarling mastiff during -my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy dunghill, not at -all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and there sows and porkers -bask in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of death and -bacon arrives. - -But it is high time to lead you towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, -more ample fields of grain, more flourishing willows! A boundless plain -lies before this city, dotted with cows, and speckled with flowers; a -level whence its spires and quaint roofs are seen to advantage! The pale -colours of the sky, and a few gleams of watery sunshine, gave a true -Flemish cast to the scenery, and everything appeared so consistent, that -I had not a shadow of pretence to think myself asleep. - -After crossing a broad expanse of river, edged on one side by beds of -osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets -preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses to -our inn. Its situation in the "Place de Meir," a vast open space -surrounded by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has -something striking and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, -sculptured by Cortels of Malines,[1] adds to its splendour; and the -tops of some tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, add -greatly to the effect of the perspective. - -It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new -objects discovered by this dubious, visionary light, I went immediately -a rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations: there were no groups -of squabbling children or talkative old women. The whole town seemed -retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and turning -about, from street to street, and from alley to alley, without meeting a -single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two women in long cloaks -and mantles glided by at a distance; but their dress was so shroud-like, -and their whole appearance so ghostly, that I should have been afraid to -accost them. As night approached, the ranges of buildings grew more and -more dim, and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. The -canals, which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise in -perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me to observe -on the still waters the reflection of the structures above them. Except -two or three tapers glimmering through the casements, no one -circumstance indicated human existence. I might, without being thought -very romantic, have imagined myself in the city of petrified people -which Arabian fabulists are so fond of describing. Were any one to ask -my advice upon the subject of retirement, I should tell him--By all -means repair to Antwerp. No village amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon -Mount Lebanon, is less disturbed: you may pass your days in this great -city without being the least conscious of its sixty thousand -inhabitants, unless you visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be -heard a few devout whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a -little chiming; but, walk about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, -and be assured your ears will be free from all molestation. - -You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around me -whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty of my -situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, I was in the -midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if by some magic -influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable indeed for -streets and edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a profound -repose. What a pity that we cannot borrow some small share of this -soporific disposition! It would temper that restless spirit which throws -us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, let us not be too -precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time may arrive when, like -Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of forgetfulness; when a fine verdure -may carpet our Exchange, and passengers traverse the Strand without any -danger of being smothered in crowds or crushed by carriages. - -Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted -with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I -insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was -aware, under its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an object -more solemn or more imposing than this edifice at the hour I first -beheld it. Dark shades hindered my examining the lower galleries; their -elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of building -met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred and sixty-six feet -in the air, received an additional importance from the gloom which -prevailed below. The sky being perfectly clear, several stars twinkled -through the mosaic of the pinnacles, and increased the charm of their -effect. - -Whilst I was indulging my reveries, a ponderous bell struck ten, and -such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole edifice, -notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. I need not say, -no mob obstructed my passage. I ran through a succession of streets, -free and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs of -Wiltshire. The voices of my servants conversing before the hotel were -the only sounds which the great "Place de Meir" echoed. - -This characteristic stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back -upon those scenes of outcry and horror which filled London but a week or -two ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and to the environs -of the capital, but haunted our streets at mid-day. Here, I could -wander over an entire city; stray by the port, and venture through the -most obscure alleys, without a single apprehension; without beholding a -sky red and portentous with the light of houses on fire, or hearing the -confusion of shouts and groans mingled with the reports of artillery. I -can assure you, I think myself very fortunate to have escaped the -possibility of another such week of desolation, and to be peaceably -lulled at Antwerp. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur Van - Lencren's collection.--The Canon Knyff's house and gallery of - paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic felicity.--Revisit the - cathedral.--Grand service in honour of St. John the - Baptist.--Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist's astonishing flashes - of execution.--Evening service in the cathedral.--Magical effect of - the music of Jomelli.--Blighted avenues.--Slow travelling.--Enter - the United Provinces.--Level scenery.--Chinese prospects.--Reach - Meerdyke.--Arrival at the Hague. - - -Antwerp, 23rd June, 1780. - -After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all the cabinets -of pictures in Antwerp. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren's, who -possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, -with the rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heaven forbid I -should enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count the -dew-drops upon the most spangled of Van Huysum's flower-pieces, or the -pimples on their possessor's countenance; a very good sort of man, -indeed; but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered. - -My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought me into -the court-yard of the Canon Knyff's habitation; a snug abode, well -furnished with ample fauteuils and orthodox couches. After viewing the -rooms on the first floor, we mounted an easy staircase, and entered an -ante-chamber, which they who delight in the imitations of art rather -than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the portraits of -tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but it must be confessed, -that amongst these uninteresting performances are dispersed a few -striking Berghems and agreeable Polembergs. In the gallery adjoining, -two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit observation; and a large Teniers, -representing the Hermit St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious set of -imps and leering devilesses, is well calculated to display the whimsical -buffoonery of a Dutch imagination. - -I was enjoying this strange medley, when the canon made his appearance; -and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to Flemish ideas. In -my humble opinion, his reverence looked a little muddled or so; and, to -be sure, the description I afterwards heard of his style of living -favours not a little my surmises. This worthy dignitary, what with his -private fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a spanking -revenue, which he contrives to get rid of in the joys of the table and -the encouragement of the pencil. - -His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of so -comfortable an income; the canon being upon a very social footing with -them all. At four o'clock in the afternoon, a select party attend him in -his coach to an ale-house about a league from the city; where a table, -well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, waits their arrival. -After enjoying this rural fare, the same equipage conducts them back -again, by all accounts, much faster than they came; which may well be -conceived, as the coachman is one of the brightest wits of the -entertainment. - -My compliments, alas! were not much appreciated, you may suppose, by -this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemberg, and -offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; but, as I -could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyff to expand, I made one of my best -bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic felicity. - -In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament of -which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, and so -faithfully imitated that I dare say no Ass could see it unmoved. At -length, it was lawful to return home; and as I positively refused -visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord of -Rucker, and played myself quite out of the Netherlands. - -It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took advantage -of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of starlings had -just pitched on one of the pinnacles of the tower, whose faint chirpings -were the only sounds that broke the evening stillness. Not a human form -appeared at any of the windows around; no footsteps were audible in the -opening before the grand entrance; and during the half hour I spent in -walking to and fro, one solitary Franciscan was the only creature that -accosted me. From him I learned that a grand service was to be performed -next day in honour of St. John the Baptist, and the best music in -Flanders would be called forth on the occasion, so I determined to stay -one day longer at Antwerp. - -Having taken this resolution, I availed myself of a special invitation -from Mynheer Van den Bosch, the first organist of the place, and sat -next to him in his lofty perch during the celebration of high mass. The -service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and examined the innumerable -chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer Van den Bosch thundered and -lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops. - -When the first flashes of execution had a little subsided, I took an -opportunity of surveying the celebrated Descent from the Cross. This has -ever been esteemed the master-piece of Rubens, which, large as it is, -they pretend here that Old Lewis Baboon[2] offered to cover with gold. A -swingeing St. Christopher, fording a brook with a child on his -shoulders, cannot fail of attracting attention. This colossal personage -is painted on the folding-doors which defend the grand effort of art -just mentioned from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has selected a very -proper subject to display the gigantic boldness of his pencil. - -After I had most dutifully surveyed all his productions in this church, -I walked half over Antwerp in quest of St. John's relics, which were -moving about in procession. If my eyes were not much regaled by the -saint's magnificence, my ears were greatly affected in the evening by -the music which sang forth his praises. The cathedral was crowded with -devotees, and perfumed with incense. A motet, in the lofty style of -Jomelli, performed with taste and feeling, transported me to Italian -climates; and I grieved, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think -that I had still so many tramontane regions to pass before I could in -effect reach that classic country. Finding it was in vain to expect -preternatural interposition, and perceiving no conscious angel or -Loretto-vehicle waiting in some dark consecrated corner to bear me away, -I humbly returned to my hotel. - -Monday, June 26th.--We were again upon the pav, rattling and jumbling -along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. The plagues of Egypt -have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, by the -appearance of the oak trees: not a leaf have the insects spared. After -having had the displeasure of seeing no other objects for several hours -but these blasted rows, the scene changed to vast tracts of level -country, buried in sand and smothered with heath; the particular -character of which I had but too good an opportunity of intimately -knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us without being once -out of breath. - -Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, and -had all their glory of canals, treck-schuyts, and windmills, before us. -The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and the lively -green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with the ideas I had -formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was not diminished upon -viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled meadows, with -stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable barges gliding -busily along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; it improved each -moment, as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, at sun-set, not one -single cloud obscured the horizon. Several storks were parading by the -water-side, amongst flags and osiers; and, as far as the eye could -reach, large herds of beautifully spotted cattle were enjoying the -plenty of their pastures. I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or -Ning Po, till we reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the -current recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, therefore, -as I left my carriage and entered my inn, the clouds of tobacco which -filled every one of its apartments dispersed my Chinese imaginations, -and reduced me in an instant to Holland. - -Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell you that -its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe would be -nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass over the -village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent of pottery, -and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague. - -As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy the -shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling, and proceeded to the -village on the sea coast, which terminates the perspective. Almost every -cottage door being open to catch the air, I had an opportunity of -looking into their neat apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, all -glisten with cleanliness; the country people were drinking tea, after -the fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and contrivances. - -I left them to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast azure -expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I remained there a -full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of different sizes were in -sight, the last sunbeam purpling their sails, and casting a path of -innumerable brilliants athwart the waves. What would I not have given to -follow this shining track! It might have conducted me straight to those -fortunate western climates, those happy isles which you are so fond of -painting, and I of dreaming about. But, unluckily, this passage was the -only one my neighbours the Dutch were ignorant of. It is true they have -islands rich in spices, and blessed with the sun's particular attention, -but which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no means -fortunate. - -Abandoning therefore all hopes of this adventurous voyage, I returned -towards the Hague, and looked into a country-house of the late Count -Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets by no means resembling, one should -conjecture, the gardens of the Hesperides. But, considering that the -whole group of trees, terraces, and verdure were in a manner created out -of hills of sand, the place may claim some portion of merit. The walks -and alleys have all the stiffness and formality which our ancestors -admired; but the intermediate spaces, being dotted with clumps and -sprinkled with flowers, are imagined in Holland to be in the English -style. An Englishman ought certainly to behold it with partial eyes, -since every possible attempt has been made to twist it into the taste of -his country. - -I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count Bentinck's -tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized -over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. All the -way home, I reflected upon the unyielding perseverance of the Dutch, who -raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the bosom of the -waters. I had, almost at the same moment, a whimsical proof of the -thrifty turn of this people; for just entering the town I met an -unwieldy fellow--not ill clad--airing his carcase in a one-dog chair. -The poor animal puffed and panted, Mynheer smoked, and gaped around him -with the most blessed indifference. - - - - -LETTER III. - - The Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings.--Temptation of St. - Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by Berghem and - Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable productions of - the Indies.--Enamelled flasks of oriental essences.--Vision of the - wardrobe of Hecuba.--Disenchantment.--Cabinet of natural - history.--A day dream.--A delicious morsel.--Dinner at Sir Joseph - Yorke's.--Two honourable boobies.--The Great Wood.--Parterres of - the Greffier Fagel.--Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.--Fishy - locality of Dutch banquetting rooms.--Derivation of the inhabitants - of Holland.--Origin and use of enormous galligaskins.--Escape from - damp alleys and lazy waters. - - -30th June, 1780. - -I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings -and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst the pictures which -amused me the most is a temptation of the holy hermit St. Anthony, by -Hell-fire Breughel, who has shown himself right worthy of the title; for -a more diabolical variety of imps never entered the human imagination. -Breughel has made his saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies -and creeping things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, would -have lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of steel and -fiery turrets glare on every side, whence issue a band of junior devils. -These seem highly entertained with pinking poor Anthony, and whispering, -I warrant ye, filthy tales in his ear. Nothing can be more rueful than -the patient's countenance; more forlorn than his beard; more piteous -than his eye, forming a strong contrast to the pert winks and insidious -glances of his persecutors; some of whom, I need not mention, are -evidently of the female kind. - -But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad company -so long; and had I a moment to spare, you should be introduced to a -better set in this gallery, where some of the most exquisite Berghems -and Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for hours. I do not think -you would look much at the Polembergs; there are but two, and one of -them is very far from capital; in short, I am in a great hurry; so -pardon me, Carlo Cignani! if I do not do justice to your merit; and -forgive me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute of -admiration. - -Mynheer Van Something was as eager to precipitate my step as I was to -get out of the damps and perplexities of Sorgvliet yesterday evening; -so, mounting a creaking staircase, he led me to a suite of garretlike -apartments; which, considering the meanness of their exterior, I was -rather surprised to find stored with some of the most valuable -productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, models of -Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, and Japan -caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. The most pleasing -of all its baubles in my estimation was a large coffer of most elaborate -workmanship, containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, enough to -perfume a zennana. If disagreeable fumes, as I mentioned before, -dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils have doubtless the power of -raising them; for, whilst I scented their fragrancy, I could have -persuaded myself, I was in the wardrobe of Hecuba,-- - - "Where treasured odours breathed a costly scent." - -I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of -matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began to rise upon -my sight, when a sweltering Dutch porpoise approaching to make me a low -bow, his complaisance proved full as notorious as Satan's, when, -according to Catholic legends, he took leave of Luther, that -disputatious heresiarch. No spell can resist a fumigation of this -nature; away fled palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, &c. I looked up, and -lo! I was in a garret. As poetry is but too often connected with this -lofty situation, you will not wonder much at my flight. Being a little -recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the cabinets -of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober senses. A grave -hippopotamus contributed a good deal to their re-establishment. - -The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me another -dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, on the -summits of Haynang and Nan-Hoa;[3] but the jargon which was gabbling all -around me prevented the excursion, and I summoned a decent share of -attention for that ample chamber which has been appropriated to bottled -snakes and pickled foetuses. - -After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no very -new or singular objects can be selected in this. One of the rarest -articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human head, most -dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have been bestowed by -amateurs on this performance. A German professor could hardly believe it -artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set his teeth in this -delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. My faith was less -hazardously established; and I moved off, under the conviction that art -had never produced anything more horridly natural. - -It was one o'clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; and another -hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions of stuffed -birds and marine productions. At length my departure was allowable; and -I went to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke's, with all nations and languages. -Amongst the company were two honourable boobies and their governor, all -from Ireland. The youngest, after plying me with a succession of -innocent questions, wished to be informed where I proposed spending the -carnival. "At Tunis," was my answer. The questioner, not in the least -surprised, then asked who was to sing there? To which I replied, -"Farinelli." - -This settled the business to our mutual satisfaction; so after coffee I -strayed to the Great Wood, which, considering that it almost touches the -town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. Not a branch being -ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches retain their natural -luxuriance. In some places their straight boles rise sixty feet without -a bough; in others, they are bent fantastically over the alleys, which -turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. I followed them with -eagerness and curiosity; sometimes deviating from my path amongst tufts -of fern and herbage. - -In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and -windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst contemplating -the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers and grasses -below. Hares and rabbits scudded by me while I sat; and the birds were -chirping their evening song. Their preservation does credit to the -police of the country, which is so exact and well regulated as to suffer -no outrage within the precincts of this extensive wood, the depth and -thickness of which might otherwise seem calculated to favour half the -sins of a capital. - -Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst -the beeches till late in the evening; then taking the nearest path, I -suffered myself, though not without regret, to be conducted out of this -fresh sylvan scene to the dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier -Fagel. Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one -side; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the -other. These sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United -Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour -to conquer their filthiness. - -But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to -mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their -odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be inclined to -this supposition by the numerous banquetting-rooms and pleasure-houses -which hang directly above their surface, and seem calculated on purpose -to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their -country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), one -should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their -pavilions in such situations; but, after all, I am not greatly -surprised at the fishiness of their site, since very slight authority -would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water, and the -ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oysterishness of -eye and flabbiness of complexion, are almost proofs sufficient of this -aquatic descent: and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins -as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a -flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphinlike -termination? - -Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the -borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks to -a vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. There was no -temptation to puzzle myself in such a labyrinth; so taking advantage of -the lateness of the hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises of -returning at the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless -scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser and less -curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the Hague. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Leave the Hague.--Leyden.--Wood near Haerlem.--Waddling - fishermen.--Enter the town.--The great fair.--Riot and - uproar.--Confusion of tongues.--Mine hostess. - - -Haerlem, July 1st, 1780. - -The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled -along a shady road for about an hour, when down sunk the carriage into a -sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into a -profound repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I awoke, -we were rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable in -honour of this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung and -said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, and -smoked in its gardens. Let us get out of it as fast as we can, and -breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem. - -Here we arrived just as day declined: hay was making in the fields, and -perfumed the country far and wide with its reviving fragrance. I -promised myself a sentimental saunter in the groves, took up Gesner, and -began to have pretty pastoral ideas as I walked forward; but instead of -nymphs dispersed over the meadows, I met a gang of waddling fishermen. -Letting fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherdesses, I jumped -into the carriage, and was driven off to the town. Every avenue to it -swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed to announce that -something extraordinary was going forward. Upon inquiry I found it was -the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much farther, our -carriage was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters of all -denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of little -illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys and -looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we reached our inn, -and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last we were -accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has been -dedicated to you. - -You will not be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since I tell -you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. At this -very moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all regular -proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, and -show-boxes under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, -outrageous Italians, frisking minstrels; _tambours de basque_ at every -corner; myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing -German couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed, -nothing to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while provoking -their appetite; squeaking chamber-maids in the galleries above, and mine -hostess below, half inclined to receive the golden solicitations of -certain beauties for admittance, but positively refusing them the moment -some creditable personage appears; eleven o'clock strikes; half the -lights in the fair are extinguished; scruples grow faint; and mammon -gains the victory. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht.--Country-houses and gardens.--Neat - enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies and Lapdogs.--Arrival at - Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The woods.--Shops.--Celestial - love.--Musical Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht. - - -Utrecht, 2d July, 1780. - -Well, thank Heaven! Amsterdam is behind us; how I got thither signifies -not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was -hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the odours, exhaling -from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale the nose of a -Hottentot. - -Under these pungent circumstances we entered the great city. The -Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither as -fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, -magnificently coved, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That -despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined -with the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt -statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite -astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no -other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and -flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid's work-bag. -Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the -neatness and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of -flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of -consequential personages were solacing themselves after the heat of the -day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable party dozing -over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an -avenue but swarmed with female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at -their sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities. - -But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, -and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my -attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Ziest, -in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation of -Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy -fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, -amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate -protection of their pious brethren. - -Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built round -with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and one ragged -goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, perhaps, for -the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in -solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished with -gew-gaws and trinkets said to be manufactured by the female part of the -society. Much cannot be boasted of their handy-works: I expressed a wish -to see some of these industrious fair ones; but, upon receiving no -answer, found this was a subject of which there was no discourse. - -Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance -of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued -very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught a -glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns as they -sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great -inclination to approach this busy group, but the roll of a brother's eye -corrected me. - -Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated -buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my -expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall -esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so hasty a -narrative. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy - saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal depredators.--Arrival - at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three Wise Sovereigns.--Peregrinations - of their beatified bones.--Road to Bonn.--Delights of - Catholicism.--Azure mountains.--Visionary palaces. - - -We arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the mouldering -turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a candle and -lantern. An old woman at the gate asked our names (for not a single -soldier appeared); and after traversing a number of superannuated -streets without perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his -Paladins, we procured comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and -slept most unheroically sound, till it was time to set forward for -Dusseldorf. - -July 8th.--As we were driven out of the town, I caught a glimpse of a -grove, hemmed in by dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers were -sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan -greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like unhappy -souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away their -existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a party behind; -and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads and rumbling -pavements, crossed the Rhine and travelled on to Dusseldorf. - -Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers to -stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more indifferent -houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a living creature -moving about them; and at night a complete regiment of bugs "marked me -for their own." Thus I lay, at once the seat of war and the conquest of -these detestable animals, till early in the morning (Sunday, July 9th), -when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, opened the ivory gates of -his empire, and freed his votary from the most unconscionable vermin -ever engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast asleep; and remained -quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till it was time to survey the -cabinet. - -This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains some -valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most boasted of -is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three enormous -representations of the last day, where an innumerable host of sinners -are exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of the devil's -tail. The woes of several fat luxurious souls are rendered in the -highest gusto. Satan's dispute with some brawny concubines, whom he is -lugging off in spite of all their resistance, cannot be too much admired -by those who approve this class of subjects, and think such strange -embroglios in the least calculated to raise a sublime or a religious -idea. - -For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to -contemplate a holy family by Camillo Procaccini, in another apartment. -The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure more graceful -than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an inspired -countenance or celestial features, it was here: but to attempt conveying -in words what the pencil alone can express, would be only reversing the -absurdity of many a master in the gallery who aims to represent those -ideas by the pencil which language alone is able to describe. Should -you admit this opinion, you will not be surprised at my passing such a -multitude of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you out of -the cabinet without deluging ten pages with criticisms in the style of -the ingenious Lady Miller. - -As I had spent so much time in the gallery, the day was too far advanced -to think of travelling to Cologne; I was therefore obliged to put myself -once more under the dominion of the most inveterate bugs in the -universe. This government, like many others, made but an indifferent use -of its power, and the subject suffering accordingly was extremely -rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to Cologne. - -July 10th.--Clouds of dust hindered my making any remarks on the -exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance be not more -beautiful from without than within, I defy the most courteous compiler -of geographical dictionaries to launch forth very warmly in its praise. -But of what avail are stately palaces, broad streets, or airy markets, -to a town which can boast of such a treasure as the bodies of those -three wise sovereigns who were star-led to Bethlehem? Is not this -circumstance enough to procure it every kind of respect? I really -believe so, from the pious and dignified contentment of its inhabitants. -They care not a hair of an ass's ear whether their houses be gloomy and -ill-contrived, their pavements overgrown with weeds, and their shops -half choked up with filthiness, provided the carcasses of Gaspar, -Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved with proper decorum. Nothing, -to be sure, can be richer than the shrine which contains these precious -relics. I paid my devotions before it the moment I arrived; this step -was inevitable: had I omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have -cursed me for a Pagan. - -Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from their -native country? I thought them snug under some Arabian cupola ten feet -deep in spice; but who can tell what is to become of one a few ages -hence? Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco may be canonized some future -day in Lapland? I asked, of course, how in the name of miracles they -came hither? but found no story of a supernatural conveyance. It seems -that great collectress of relics, the holy Empress Helena, first routed -them out: then they were packed off to Rome. King Alaric, having no -grace, bundled them down to Milan; where they remained till it pleased -Heaven to inspire an ancient archbishop with the fervent wish of -depositing them at Cologne; there these skeletons were taken into the -most especial consideration, crowned with jewels and filigreed with -gold. Never were skulls more elegantly mounted; and I doubt whether -Odin's buffet could exhibit so fine an assortment. The chapel containing -these beatified bones is placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. -Several golden lamps gleam along the polished marbles with which it is -adorned, and afford just light enough to read the following monkish -inscription:-- - - "CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM: - EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM." - -After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations of -the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather -surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, but -covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. Many an -impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic -bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of saints and -evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed assembly (for -the shrine, they say, was formed under her auspices) surpasses my -comprehension. Perhaps you will say, it is no great matter; and give me -a hint to move out of the chapel, lest the three kings and their star -should lead me quite out of my way. Very well; I think I had better stop -in time, to tell you, without further excursion, that we set off after -dinner for Bonn. - -Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, and -scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all the -delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share of my -attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which bounded -our view, and in thought was already transported to their summits. Vast -and wild were the prospects I surveyed from my imaginary exaltation, and -innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Under their -capricious influence my fancy built castles and capitols in the clouds -with all the extravaganza of Piranesi. The magnificence and variety of -my arial structures hindered my thinking the way long. I was walking -with a crowd of phantoms upon their terraces, when the carriage made a -halt. Immediately descending the innumerable flights of steps which -divide such lofty edifices from the lower world, I entered the inn at -Bonn, and was shown into an apartment which commands the chief front of -the Elector's residence. You may guess how contemptible it appeared to -one just returned from palaces bedecked with all the pomp of visionary -splendour. In other respects I saw it at a very favourable moment, for -the twilight, shading the whole faade, concealed its plastered walls -and painted columns. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn to - Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A winding - valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A supposed - Apparition.--A little sequestered Paradise. - - -July 11, 1780. - -Let those who delight in picturesque country repair to the borders of -the Rhine, and follow the road from Bonn to Coblentz. In some places it -is suspended like a cornice above the waters; in others, it winds behind -lofty steeps and broken acclivities, shaded by woods and clothed with an -endless variety of plants and flowers. Several green paths lead amongst -this vegetation to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the -foundation of abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising -above the cliffs, impress passengers with ideas of their grandeur, that -might probably vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing to lose any -prejudice in their favour, I kept a respectful distance whenever I left -my carriage, and walked on the banks of the river. - -Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange -morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet in -length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great many -people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at their doors, -whilst their children played among the water-lilies that bloomed in -abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from one of these -aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains beyond, and added -not a little to their effect. - -Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an hour -contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy walnuts; -and should like extremely to build a moveable village, people it with my -friends, and so go floating about from island to island, and from one -woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you dislike such a party? I -am much deceived, or you would be the first to explore the shady -promontories beneath which we should be wafted along. - -But I do not think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to -take up our night's lodging, much to your taste. It is a mean, dirty -assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with -wooden galleries, in the delectable taste of old St. Giles's. Above, on -a rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable -for nothing except situation. I did not bestow many looks on this -structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to Mayence -conducted us. - -July 12.--Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast, irregular -range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst downs purpled -with thyme and bounded by forests. This sort of prospect extending for -several leagues, I walked on the turf, and inhaled with avidity the -fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till I came to a steep slope -overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs in blossom. A -cloudless sky and bright sunshine made me rather loth to move on; but -the charms of the landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward. - -I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, inclosed -by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the thickest -woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, reflected the -impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy that I was -determined to be better acquainted with it. For this purpose we -descended by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the best of our way -on the banks of the Lahn (for so is the river called) came suddenly upon -the town of Ems, famous in mineral story; where, finding very good -lodgings, we took up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds -and mountains. - -After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the moon -journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed over the -face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every mountain cast -its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights twinkled afar off -on the hills; they burnt in silence. All were asleep, except a female -figure in white, with glow-worms shining in her hair. She kept moving -disconsolately about; sometimes I heard her sigh; and if apparitions -sigh, this must have been an apparition. - -July 13.--The pure air of the morning invited me abroad at an early -hour. Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down the stream, and landed -on a sloping meadow, level with the waters, and newly mown. Heaps of hay -still lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on every side this -little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! I could encamp here -for months, and never be tired. Not a day would pass by without -discovering some untrodden pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might -remain among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. I would give you, -and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else should be -conscious even of its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, I rambled -about the meads, scarcely aware which way I was going; sometimes a -spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange fancies. -Between both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never have found -my boat again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting -fossils on the cliffs, directed me to it. - -When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive that I -had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a few wood -strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet received into -the realms of Ginnistan. - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A - Storm--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village of - Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited plains on its - margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the Town.--Pomposities of the Town - House. - - -Ems, July 14. - -I have just made a discovery, that this place is as full of idlers and -water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse Darmstadt can -desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its salubrious fountains. -I protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, so entirely was I taken -up with the rocks and meadows; and conceived no chance of meeting either -card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both however abound at Ems, -unconscious of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally -insensible to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring -barren crags and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, as -a clumsy lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously -observed to me; nor could they form the least conception of any pleasure -there was in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving -into woods and recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there -were neither card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no _jambon -de Mayence_ in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest -delights, to be met with in the commonest taverns. - -To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately -left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and -weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I -turned my back upon this polite assembly, when _Monsieur -l'Administrateur des bains_, a fine pompous fellow, who had been _maitre -d'htel_ in a great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint -me, I suppose, that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince -Orloff, "_avec sa crande maidresse, son shamperlan, et guelgues tames -donneur_:" moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself -after his laborious employments at the Court of St. Petersburgh, and -expected (_grace aux eaux_!) to return to the domains his august -sovereign had lately bestowed upon him, perfectly regenerated. - -Wishing Monsieur d'Orloff all possible success, I should have left the -company at a greater distance, had not a violent shower stopped my -career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing -heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a -gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close -foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the clouds -assumed a more formidable aspect; thunder rolled along the distant -cliffs, and torrents began to run down the steeps. At intervals a blue -flash of lightning discovered the agitated surface of the stream, and -two or three scared women rushing through the storm, and calling all the -saints in Paradise to their assistance. - -Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so -brilliantly on the folly of ascending mountains, bounced into the room, -and regaled my ears with a woeful narration of murders which had -happened the other day on the precise road I was to follow the next -morning. - -"Sir," said he, "your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the left -you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the smallest -alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious -wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a -regiment; a little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest -land, the roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many -minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There lurk the most savage -banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince of Orange's -proscription; and so desperate, that if they make an attack, you can -expect no mercy. Should you venture through this hazardous district -to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet a company of people who -have just left the town to search for the mangled bodies of their -relations; but, for Heaven's sake, sir, if you value your life, do not -suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous regions, -however picturesque their appearance." - -It was almost nine o'clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me -with terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not -under the most agreeable impressions. - -Early in the morning we set forward; and proceeding along the edge of -the precipices I had been forewarned of, journeyed through the forest -which had so recently been the scene of murders and depredations. At -length, after winding several hours amongst its dreary avenues, we -emerged into open daylight. A few minutes more brought us safe to the -village of Wiesbaden, where we slept in peace and tranquillity. - -July 16.--Our apprehensions being entirely dispersed, we rose much -refreshed; and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled -gaily over the plain in which Manheim is situated. The sun set before we -arrived there. - -Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and -fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared -conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity of -the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we could -hardly cross a street without hearing the sound of music. A scene of -such happiness and refinement formed a most agreeable contrast to the -dismalities we had left behind. All around was security and contentment -in their most engaging attire. - -July 20.--After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a green -moor, of vast extent, with insulated woods and villages; here and there -the Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon -its banks. The fields in the neighbourhood of the town were overspread -with cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks, which convey -them down the great river in twelve days to Vienna, and thence, through -Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish empire. - -You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than those which -gilded our horizon. For ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth -unlimited levels interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which -appeared a long series of mountains. Such were the very spots for -youthful games and exercises, open spaces for the race, and spreading -shades to skreen the spectators. - -Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery Savannahs -in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians -repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and -lead their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies -leave on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain -of future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and -dances upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of -these visionary plains rises the abode of Ateantsic, encircled by choirs -of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the sound of spears as they -ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite attendants, long -separated from them while on earth, are restored again in this ethereal -region, and skim freely over the vast level space; now, hailing one -group of beloved friends; and now, another. Mortals newly ushered by -death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see the -long-lost objects of their affection advancing to meet them, whilst -flights of familiar birds, the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once -more attend their progress, and the shades of their faithful dogs seem -coursing each other below. The whole region is filled with low murmurs -and tinkling sounds, which increase in melody as its new denizens -proceed, who, at length, unable to resist the thrilling music, spring -forward in ecstasies to join the eternal round. - -A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst my -eyes wandered over the plains, which imagination widened and extended in -proportion as the twilight prevailed, and so fully abandoned was I to -the illusion of the moment, that I did not for several minutes perceive -our arrival at Gnzburg; whence we proceeded the next morning (July 21) -to Augsburg, and rambled about this renowned city till evening. The -colossal paintings on the walls of almost every considerable building -gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the score of novelty. - -Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we -found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of -Augustus; which way soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable -edifice, or marble basin into which several groups of sculptured -river-gods pour a profusion of waters. These stately fountains and -bronze statues, the extraordinary size and loftiness of the buildings, -the towers rising in perspective, and the Doric portal of the -town-house, answered in some measure the idea Montfaucon gives us of -the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter -attempts a representation of Troy or Babylon, and displays in his -back-ground those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, -or some such city, may easily be traced. Frequently a corner of Antwerp -discovers itself; and sometimes, above a Corinthian portico, rises a -Gothic spire: just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue of -Augustus, under which I remained till the concierge came, who was to -open the gates of the town-house and show me its magnificent hall. - -I wished for you exceedingly when ascending a flight of a hundred steps; -I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and crowned -with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five more -entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii leaning -over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each above -thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole -city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars, -cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly tinged -with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with emblematical -paintings and innumerable canopies and pendents of carved work, casts a -very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should not be surprised at a -burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity in such a room. - -I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended -the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if on the point of giving -audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a high festival, and -half the inhabitants of Augsburg were gathered together in the opening -before their hall; the greatest numbers, especially the women, still -exhibiting the very dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed -upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with as -much silent respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of -Israel. When I got home, an execrable sourcroutish supper was served up -to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal style, and soon convinced myself -I was no longer Solomon. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand fair at Munich.--The - Elector's country palace.--Court - Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden and tea-room.--Hoydening - festivities there.--The Palace and Chapel.--Gorgeous riches of the - latter.--St. Peter's thumb.--The Elector's collection of - pictures.--The Churches.--Hubbub and confusion of the Fair.--Wild - tract of country.--Village of Wolfrathshausen.--Perpetual - forests.--A Tempest.--A night at a cottage. - - -July 22. - -Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! for preserving such extensive woods of -fir in their dominions as shade over the chief part of the road from -Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned city, I cannot boast of the -scenery changing to advantage. Instead of flourishing woods and verdure, -we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified by fields of withering -barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally across them; now and then a -stagnant pool, and sometimes a dunghill, by way of regale. However, the -wild rocks of the Tyrol terminate the view, and to them imagination may -fly, and ramble amidst springs and lilies of her own creation. I speak -from authority, having had the delight of anticipating an evening in -this romantic style. - -Tuesday next is the grand fair at Munich, with horse-races and -junketings: a piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the -moment we entered the town, good-natured creatures from all quarters -advised us to get out of it; since traders and harlequins had filled -every corner of the place, and there was not a lodging to be procured. -The inns, to be sure, were hives of industrious animals sorting their -merchandise, and preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite of -difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment. - -July 23.--We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, the Elector's -country palace, the bosquets, jets-d'eaux, and parterres of which are -the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a glitter -with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every pore. Beds of -poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and other flame-coloured flowers, -border the edge of the walks, which extend till the perspective appears -to meet and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in party-coloured raiment. -The queen of Golconda's gardens in a French opera are scarcely more -gaudy and artificial. Unluckily too, the evening was fine, and the sun -so powerful that we were half roasted before we could cross the great -avenue and enter the thickets, which barely conceal a very splendid -hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. Trevor, and a party of -fashionable Bavarians. - -Amongst the ladies was Madame la Comtesse, I forget who, a production of -the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de Baumgarten, who has -the honour of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses -stepping into a car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed and -explored alley after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, having -viewed Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and -Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a variety -of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly did their best -(for many were set agoing on purpose) I cannot say I greatly admired -them. - -The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as -swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked exactly like -the fine people one sees represented on Dresden porcelain. Thus we kept -walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew up and -conveyed us to Mr. Trevor's. - -Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden -and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till -morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the waltz, another amuse -themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That despatched, out -they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity and liveliness I -little expected to have found in Bavaria. After turning round and round, -with a rapidity that is quite astounding to an English dancer, the music -changes to a slower movement, and then follows a succession of zig-zag -minuets, performed by old and young, straight and crooked, noble and -plebeian, all at once, from one end of the room to the other. Tallow -candles snuffing and stinking, dishes changing at the risk of showering -down upon you their savoury contents, heads scratching, and all sorts of -performances going forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and -bassoons, snorting, grunting, and whining with peculiar emphasis; now -fast, now slow, just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the -ceremonial of this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and -privilege is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, -the rooms are open, and Monday is generally far advanced before they are -deserted. If good humour and coarse merriment are all that people -desire, here they are to be found in perfection. - -July 24.--Custom condemned us to visit the palace, which glares with -looking-glass, gilding, and furbelowed flounces of cut velvet, most -sumptuously fringed and spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer -than anything Croesus ever possessed, let them say what they will. Not -a corner but shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded -with jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and the richest -gems under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius[4] thinks such -supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the honour, and had much -rather have trodden the turf of the mountains. Mammon would never have -taken his eyes off the pavement; mine soon left the contemplation of it -and fixed on St. Peter's thumb, enshrined with a degree of elegance, and -adorned by some malapert enthusiast with several of the most delicate -antique cameos I ever beheld; the subjects, Ledas and sleeping Venuses, -are a little too pagan, one should think, for an apostle's finger. - -From this precious repository we were conducted through the public -garden to a large hall, where part of the Elector's collection is piled -up, till a gallery can be finished for its reception. It was matter of -great favour to view, in this state, the pieces that compose it, a very -imperfect one too, since some of the best were under operation. But I -would not upon any account have missed the sight of Rubens's Massacre of -the Innocents. Such expressive horrors were never yet transferred to -canvass. Moloch himself might have gazed at them with pleasure. - -After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much -tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the -continual repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy upon -you! However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, and -to-morrow we shall begin to mount the cliffs of the Tyrol; but, do not -be afraid of any long-winded epistles from their summits: I shall be too -well employed in ascending them. - -July 25.--The noise of the people thronging to the fair did not allow me -to slumber very long in the morning. When I got up, every street was -crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and driving their -bargains in all the guttural hoarseness of the Bavarian dialect. Vast -quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops as we passed to -the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats set half the grandams and -infants in the place cackling with felicity. - -Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, we -entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely -park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where we stopped -to give our horses some refreshment, and were pestered with swarms of -flies, most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast upon -sugared tarts and honied gingerbread. - -The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to a -narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under which -lies scattered the village of Wolfrathshausen, consisting of several -remarkably large cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries -projecting from them. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of these -complicated edifices, nor more solid than their construction; many of -them looked as if they had braved the torrents which fell from the -mountains a century ago; and, if one may judge from the hoary appearance -of the inhabitants, here are patriarchs coeval with their mansions. -Orchards of cherry-trees cover the steeps above the village, which to -our certain knowledge produce most admirable fruit. - -Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into a -grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing we had yet beheld. -There seemed no end to these forests, except where little irregular -spots of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we gained an -eminence it was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated -with meadows and glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of -sweet-scented flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the mountain-ash, -glowing with scarlet berries: and beyond, rise hills, rocks and -mountains, piled upon one another, and fringed with fir to their topmost -acclivities. Perhaps the Norwegian forests alone, equal these in -grandeur and extent. Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey -such vast ideas. There, the woods climb only half way up their ascents, -which then are circumscribed by snows: here no boundaries are set to -their progress, and the mountains, from base to summit, display rich -unbroken masses of vegetation. - -As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with thunder, -obscured the horizon, whilst flashes of lightning startled our horses, -whose snorts and stampings resounded through the woods. The impending -tempests gave additional gloom to the firs, and we travelled several -miles almost in total darkness. One moment the clouds began to fleet, -and a faint gleam promised serener intervals, but the next was all -blackness and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon the -valley, and in a short time the torrents beginning to swell, raged with -such violence as to be forded with difficulty. Twilight drew on, just as -we had passed the most terrible; then ascending a mountain, whose pines -and birches rustled with the storm, we saw a little lake below. A deep -azure haze veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours concealed the -cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities hung a few -transparent clouds; the rays of a struggling sunset streamed on the -surface of the waters, tingeing the brow of a green promontory with -tender pink. - -I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several -minutes, till this apparition faded away. Looking round, I shuddered at -a craggy mountain, clothed with forests and almost perpendicular, that -was absolutely to be surmounted before we could arrive at Walchen-see. -No house, not even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, -and penetrate these awful groves. At length, after some perils but no -adventure, we saw lights gleam upon the shore of the Walchen lake, which -served to direct us to a cottage, where we passed the night, and were -soon lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Mittenwald.--Mountain chapels.--Saint Anna's young and fair - worshippers.--Road to Inspruck.--Maximilian's tomb.--Vast range of - prospects.--A mountain torrent.--Schnberg. - - -July 26. - -The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was spangling the -surface of the lake, which spreads itself between steeps of wood, -crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of -contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of the -lake, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the water, -tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and tranquil. -Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every outlet; and, no -village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress an idea of more -than European solitude. - -From the shore of Walchen-see, our road led us straight through arching -groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of a -rock covered with daphnes of various species, and worn by the course of -torrents into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of -shattered cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and -rapid streams hurrying between their intermingled trunks and branches. -As yet, no hut appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human -existence. - -After a few hours' journey through the wilderness, we began to discover -a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence it arose, -composed of planks, and reared on the very brink of a precipice. Piles -of cloven fir were dispersed before the entrance, on a little spot of -verdure browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with hoary whiskers, -his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or three beautiful children -with hair neatly braided, played around him; and a young woman dressed -in a short robe and Polish-looking bonnet, peeped out of a wicket -window. - -I was so much struck with the appearance of this sequestered family, -that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to their cottage and sought -some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst the -children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black-eyed girl -succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled -bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. I -reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast on the -turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable grace. The only -thing I wanted was language to express my gratitude; and it was this -deficiency which made me quit them so soon. The old man seemed visibly -concerned at my departure; and his children followed me a long way down -the rocks, talking in a dialect which passes all understanding, and -waving their hands to bid me adieu. - -I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we -entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every -age and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing branches; -others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. Even at noonday, I -thought we should never have found our way out. - -At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives opening -on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by hills, divided into -irregular inclosures, where many herds were grazing. A rivulet flows -along the pastures beneath; and after winding through the village of -Walgau, loses itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs and precipices -which rise above the cultivated slopes and frame in this happy pastoral -region. All the plain was in sunshine, the sky blue, the heights -illuminated, except one rugged peak with spires of rock, shaped not -unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, and wrapped, like that sacred -mount, in clouds and darkness. At the base of this tremendous mass lies -the hamlet of Mittenwald, surrounded by thickets and banks of verdure, -and watered by frequent springs, whose sight and murmurs were so -reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not think of -leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenwald the whole evening. - -Our inn had long airy galleries, with pleasant balconies fronting the -mountain; in one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the rills, and -cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes above. The -clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half visible, before we -ended our repast, every moment discovering some inaccessible cliff or -summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun, with pale -golden colours. These appearances filled me with such delight and with -such a train of romantic associations, that I left the table and ran to -an open field beyond the huts and gardens to gaze in solitude and catch -the vision before it dissolved away. You, if any human being is able, -may conceive true ideas of the glowing vapours sailing over the pointed -rocks, and brightening them in their passage with amber light. - -When all was faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look around -me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover covered its -surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs and the -sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, broken into a -variety of glens and precipices, open a course for several clear -rivulets, which, after gurgling amidst loose stones and fragments, fall -down the steeps, and are concealed and quieted in the herbage of the -vale. - -A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; -and on the brow of the hills above, appears a series of eleven little -chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads to them, -on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful peasants, all -of the name of Anna (for it was St. Anna's day) going to pay their -devotion, severally, at these neat white fanes. There were faces that -Guercino would not have disdained copying, with braids of hair the -softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some had wreathed it simply -with flowers, others with rolls of a thin linen (manufactured in the -neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of elegance one should not -have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol. - -Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the -steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed -each to her fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, and -you may well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the -landscape, increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of their -adorations (for at intervals they sighed and beat their white bosoms -with energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at me as I -passed by. Do not be surprised, then, if I became a convert to idolatry -in so amiable a form, and worshipped Saint Anna on the score of her -namesakes. - -When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a cascade -in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps of a wide -fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its entrance, which was -marked by a shed encompassed with mossy fragments and almost concealed -by bushes of rhododendron in full red bloom--amongst these I struggled, -till reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink of the foaming -waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues a stream which, -dashing impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, and -sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big drops hung on every spray, -and glittered on the leaves partially gilt by the rays of the declining -sun, whose mellow hues softened the rugged summits, and diffused a -repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, which inclined me to -imagine it the extremity of the earth--the portal of some other region -of existence,--some happy world beyond the dark groves of pine, the -caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its source! Impressed -with this romantic idea, I hung eagerly over the gulph, and fancied I -could distinguish a voice bubbling up with the waters; then looked into -the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate its gloom--but all was dark -and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening from my reverie, I felt the -damps of the water chill my forehead; and ran shivering out of the vale -to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that reigned in the meads I had -wandered across before, tempted me to remain a good while longer -collecting dianthi freaked with beautifully varied colours, and a -species of white thyme scented like myrrh. Whilst I was thus employed, a -confused murmur struck my ear, and, on turning towards a cliff, backed -by the woods from whence the sound seemed to proceed, forth issued a -herd of goats, hundreds after hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then -followed two shepherd boys, gamboling together as they drove their -creatures along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, hunting a -stray heifer which brought up the rear. I followed them with my eyes -till lost in the windings of the valley, and heard the tinkling of their -bells die gradually away. Now the last blush of crimson left the summit -of _Sinai_, inferior mountains being long since cast in deep blue shade. -The village was already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments -I followed its example. - -July 27.--We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through the wildest scenes -of wood and mountain, where the rocks were now beginning to assume a -loftier and more majestic appearance, and to glisten with snows. I had -proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, visiting the castle of -Embras, and examining Count Eysenberg's cabinet, enriched with the -rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, and a complete collection of -the moths and flies peculiar to the Tyrol; but, upon my arrival, the -azure of the skies and the brightness of the sunshine inspired me with -an irresistible wish of hastening to Italy. I was now too near the -object of my journey, to delay possession any longer than absolutely -necessary, so, casting a transient look on Maximilian's tomb, and the -bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts, and worthies, solemnly ranged in the -church of the Franciscans, set off immediately. - -We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, and -were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with fields -of corn, and variegated with wood and vineyards, encircling lawns of -the finest verdure, scattered over with white houses. Upon ascending the -mount, and beholding a vast range of prospects of a similar character, I -almost repented my impatience, and looked down with regret upon the -cupolas and steeples we were leaving behind. But the rapid succession of -lovely and romantic scenes soon effaced the former from my memory. - -Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of rocks) -by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, opportunities -of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond forests; green -spots in the midst of wood, high above on the mountains, and cottages -perched on the edge of promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, -amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent -Inn, which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual murmur. -Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed over high bridges; -sometimes mounted halfway up the cliffs, till its roar and agitation -became, through distance, inconsiderable. - -After a long ascent we reached Schnberg,[5] a village well worthy of -its appellation: and then, twilight drawing over us, began to descend. -We could now but faintly discover the opposite mountains, veined with -silver rills, when we came once more to the banks of the Inn. This -turbulent stream accompanied us all the way to Steinach, and broke by -its continual roar the stillness of the night, half spent, before we -retired to rest. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Steinach.--Its torrent and gloomy strait.--Achievements of - Industry.--A sleepy Region.--Beautiful country round Brixen. - - -July 28. - -I rose early to enjoy the fragrance of the vegetation, bathed in a -shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, saw nothing but -crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores of the stream, still dark -with the shade of the mountains. The small opening in which Steinach is -situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, scarce leaving room for the -road and the torrent, which does not understand being thwarted, and will -force its way, let the pines grow ever so thick, or the rocks be ever so -formidable. - -Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry has -contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water by -means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the rocks with soil. By -this means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of the -huts have gardens filled with poppies, which seem to thrive in this -parched situation. - - "Urit enim lini campum seges, urit aven, - Urunt Letho perfusa papavera somno." - -The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations -which discovered themselves. For what specific purpose these gaudy -flowers meet with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to -enquire; the mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even to -Germans. Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love -a conjecture, Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians to -a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these endless mountains. -Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, always denote the skirts of his -soporific reign, and I do not remember a region better calculated for -undisturbed repose than the narrow clefts and gullies which run up -amongst these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, and -moistened by rills and showers, whose continual trickling inspire a -drowsiness not easily to be resisted. Add to these circumstances the -waving of the pines, and the hum of bees seeking their food in the -crevices, and you will have as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser -and Ariosto have placed the nodding deity. - -But we may as well keep our eyes open for the present, and look at the -beautiful country round Brixen, where I arrived in the cool of the -evening, and breathed the freshness of a garden immediately beneath my -window. The thrushes, which nest amongst its shades, saluted me the -moment I awoke next morning. - - - - -ITALY. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Bolsano.--Indications of approaching - Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance of the Peasantry.--A forest - Lake.--Arrive at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the - Venetian State.--Gorgeous Flies.--Fortress of Covalo.--Leave the - country of crags and precipices and enter the territory of the - Bassanese.--Groves of olives and vines.--Classic appearance of - Bassano.--Happy groups.--Pachierotti, the celebrated - singer.--Anecdote of him. - - -July 29, 1780. - -We proceeded over fertile mountains to Bolsano. It was here first that I -noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick set with melons and Indian -corn; fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over garden walls, clustered -with fruit. In the evening we perceived several further indications of -approaching Italy; and after sun-set the Adige, rolling its full tide -between precipices, which looked terrific in the dusk. Myriads of -fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on the bank. I traced the course -of these exotic insects by their blue light, now rising to the summits -of the trees, now sinking to the ground, and associating with vulgar -glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to remark their progress, since -we travelled all night; such being my impatience to reach the promised -land! - -Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept a few -hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in some -measure abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting -before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in -their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of -the same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, -filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses itself in -shady creeks, amongst hills entirely covered with shrubs and verdure. - -The shores present one continual thicket, interspersed with knots of -larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A cornice of -rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend to the very -brink, and dip their boughs in the water. - -It was six o'clock when I caught the sight of this unsuspected lake, -and the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining a very rapid -ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several airy peaks -rising above tufted foliage. I quitted the contemplation of them with -regret, and, in a few hours, arrived at Borgo di Volsugano; the scene of -the lake still present before the eye of my fancy. - -July 31st.--My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, not very distant, -which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I thought an age, at -least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. The road was never -formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles and rolling -stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and jolting. I should -not have spared my execrations, had it not traversed a picturesque -valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed with fragments of rock, -precipitated, long since, from the surrounding eminences, blooming with -cyclamens. - -I clambered up several of these crags, - - Fra gli odoriferi ginepri,[6] - -to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them deliciously -scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many of which I -here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and expanding -their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers I beheld, nor -their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my heart to destroy -their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch them for ever -from the realms of light and flowers. Had I been less compassionate, I -should have gained credit with that respectable corps, the torturers of -butterflies; and might, perhaps, have enriched their cabinets with some -unknown captives. However, I left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in -free possession of their native rights; and having changed horses at -Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired Italy. - -The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by the fortress of Covalo, in -possession of the empress queen, and only fit, one should think, to be -inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold but by -the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who live in -dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines for -powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach being a -little too arial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, tinging their -entrance, completed the romance of the prospect, which I never shall -forget. - -For two or three leagues there was little variation in the scenery; -cliffs, nearly perpendicular on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and -thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines and -gardens. Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries, made its -appearance, and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges -of white buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which numbers of -women and children were employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, -the stream gradually widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more -frequent and cottages thicker strown. - -About five in the evening we left the country of crags and precipices, -of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile territory of the -Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, and vines clustering -the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in every garden, and vases -of citron and orange before almost every door. The softness and -transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in happier climates; -and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through my veins, upon -beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure stretched out before -me. A few hazy vapours, I can hardly call them clouds, rested upon the -extremities of the landscape; and, through their medium, the sun cast an -oblique and dewy ray. Peasants were returning home, singing as they -went, and calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were -milking goats before the wickets of the cottage, and preparing their -country fare. - -I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and -cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of -former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself of -Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, neither -soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their concealment, to -question and molest a weary traveller, for such is the happiness of the -Venetian state, at least of the terra firma provinces, that it does not -contain, I believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, and the -maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, you -know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire. - -Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of the town in -the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a level -green, where people walk and take ices by moonlight. On the right, the -Franciscan church, and convent, half hid in the religious gloom of pine -and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and towers rising from -the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows, in front; -where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite to the -base of the mountains. - -Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with company, sitting in -circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with fruit and sherbets, -or lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free and -happy that I longed to be acquainted with them; and, thanks to a -warm-hearted old Venetian, (the Senator Querini,) was introduced to a -group of the principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise -to meet the next evening at the villa of La Contessa Roberti, about a -league from Bassano, and then to return together and sing to the praise -of Pachierotti, their idol, as well as mine. - -You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of the -same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what -effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed a -few years ago, and threw his audience into such raptures, that it was -some time before they recovered. One in particular, a lady of -distinction, fainted away the instant she caught the pathetic accents of -his voice, and was near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa, who -sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole affair. "Egli -ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a Padua," was her expression. I assured -her we were not without idolatry in England, upon his account; but that -in this, as well as in other articles of belief, there were many -abominable heretics. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Villa of Mosolente--The route to Venice.--First view of that - city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning scene on - the grand canal.--Church of Santa Maria della Salute.--Interesting - group of stately buildings.--Convent of St. Giorgio Maggiore.--The - Redentore.--Island of the Carthusians. - - -August 1st, 1780. - -The whole morning not a soul stirred who could avoid it. Those who were -so active and lively the night before, were now stretched languidly upon -their couches. Being to the full as idly disposed, I sat down and wrote -some of this dreaming epistle; then feasted upon figs and melons; then -got under the shade of the cypress, and slumbered till evening, only -waking to dine, and take some ice. - -The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente (for -so is the villa called) placed on a verdant hill encircled by others as -lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected by porticos; -just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. A vast flight of -steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and her friends -received me with a grace and politeness that can never want a place in -my memory. We rambled over all the apartments of this agreeable edifice, -characterised by airiness and simplicity. The pavement encrusted with a -composition as cool and polished as marble; the windows, doors, and -balconies adorned with silver iron work, commanding scenes of meads and -woodlands that extend to the shores of the Adriatic; slender towers and -cypresses rising above the levels; and the hazy mountains beyond Padua, -diversifying the expanse, form altogether a landscape which the elegant -imagination of Horizonti never exceeded. - -I gazed on this delightful view till it faded in the dusk; then -returning to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and heard Signora -Roberti sing the very air which had excited such transport at Padua. As -soon as she had ended, a band of various instruments stationed in the -open street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted me at -any other time; but now, I wished them a thousand leagues away, so -pleasingly melancholy an impression did the air I had been listening to -leave on my mind. - -At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting out -for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I hope some -future day to accept them. - - -August 2. - -Our route to Venice lay winding about the variegated plains I had -surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we came in two -hours and a half to Mestre, between grand villas and gardens peopled -with statues. Embarking our baggage at the last-mentioned place, we -stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was very agreeable after the -jolts of a chaise. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, terminated -by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy Virgin, peeping -out of a thicket, whence spire up two tall cypresses. Its bells tingled -as we passed along and dropped some paolis into a net tied at the end of -a pole stretched out to us for that purpose. - -As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an expanse -of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of Venice rising from -its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, St. Michele, St. Giorgio -in Alga, and several other islands, detached from the grand cluster, -which I hailed as old acquaintances; innumerable prints and drawings -having long since made their shapes familiar. Still gliding forward, we -every moment distinguished some new church or palace in the city, -suffused with the rays of the setting sun, and reflected with all their -glow of colouring from the surface of the waters. - -The air was calm; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing upon -the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel in the -island of San Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, as we rowed -by and coasted the walls of its garden overhung with fig-trees and -surmounted by spreading pines. The convent discovers itself through -their branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the -sea, except where the garden intervenes. - -We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began to -interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing and -repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its stir and -bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much address through -a crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, and rowed smoothly -by the side of a broad pavement, covered with people in all dresses and -of all nations. - -Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of arcades -and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the Leon Bianco, -which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the grand canal, -commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I have no terms to -describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and -cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenic, that adorn these edifices, of -which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render -all verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand scene of -perspective appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals the -other. - -The rooms of our hotel are spacious and cheerful; a lofty hall, or -rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a very good style, perfectly -clean, floored with a marbled stucco, divides the house, and admits a -refreshing current of air. Several windows near the ceiling look into -this vast apartment, which serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered -perfectly luminous by a glazed arcade, thrown open to catch the -breezes. Through it I passed to a balcony which impends over the canal, -and is twined round with plants forming a green festoon springing from -two large vases of orange trees placed at each end. Here I established -myself to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would permit, -the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas. - -As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings -before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas moving -rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed and played -upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when the sounds of -music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew louder and louder, -an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued from the Rialto, and -stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, which stilled every -clamour and suspended all conversation in the galleries and porticos; -till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. The gondoliers catching -the air, imitated its cadences, and were answered by others at a -distance, whose voices, echoed by the arch of the bridge, acquired a -plaintive and interesting tone. I retired to rest, full of the sound; -and long after I was asleep, the melody seemed to vibrate in my ear. - - -August 3. - -It was not five o'clock before I was aroused by a loud din of voices and -splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out, I beheld the grand -canal so entirely covered with fruits and vegetables, on rafts and in -barges, that I could scarcely distinguish a wave. Loads of grapes, -peaches and melons arrived, and disappeared in an instant, for every -vessel was in motion; and the crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to -boat, formed a very lively picture. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a -good many whose dress and carriage announced something above the common -rank; and upon enquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just come from -their casinos, and met to refresh themselves with fruit, before they -retired to sleep for the day. - -Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades of -the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing me -abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and grapes, -and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal to the marble steps -of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the Senate in performance of a vow -to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in 1630. The -great bronze portal opened whilst I was standing on the steps which lead -to it, and discovered the interior of the dome, where I expatiated in -solitude; no mortal appearing except an old priest who trimmed the lamps -and muttered a prayer before the high altar, still wrapt in shadows. The -sun-beams began to strike against the windows of the cupola, just as I -left the church and was wafted across the waves to the spacious platform -in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, one of the most celebrated works of -Palladio. - -When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined the -graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just -proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my -umbrella on the margin of the sea, and viewed at my leisure the vast -range of palaces, of porticos, of towers, opening on every side and -extending out of sight. The Doge's palace and the tall columns at the -entrance of the place of St. Mark, form, together with the arcades of -the public library, the lofty Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal -church, one of the most striking groups of buildings that art can boast -of. To behold at one glance these stately fabrics, so illustrious in the -records of former ages, before which, in the flourishing times of the -republic, so many valiant chiefs and princes have landed, loaded with -oriental spoils, was a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I -thought of the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza -of St. Mark, along which he marched in solemn procession, to cast -himself at the feet of Alexander the Third, and pay a tardy homage to -St. Peter's successor. Here were no longer those splendid fleets that -attended his progress; one solitary galeass was all I beheld, anchored -opposite the palace of the Doge and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, -whose sable hues contrasted strongly with its vermilion oars and shining -ornaments. A party-coloured multitude was continually shifting from one -side of the piazza to the other; whilst senators and magistrates in long -black robes were already arriving to fill their respective offices. - -I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where nothing -stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions, and, whilst I -remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant buzz of the town. -Fortunately some length of waves rolled between me and its tumults; so -that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, undisturbed by officiousness -or curiosity. When the sun became too powerful, I entered the nave. - -After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the lightness -of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the pavement of -white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a mirror the -columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door that admitted -me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, surrounded by a -cloister supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully proportioned. A flight -of stairs opens into the court, adorned with balustrades and pedestals, -sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. This brought me to the -refectory, where the chef-d'oeuvre of Paul Veronese, representing the -marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the first object that presented itself. -I never beheld so gorgeous a group of wedding-garments before; there is -every variety of fold and plait that can possibly be imagined. The -attitudes and countenances are more uniform, and the guests appear a -very genteel, decent sort of people, well used to the mode of their -times and accustomed to miracles. - -Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range of -tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were -coming to devour with energy, if one might judge from their appearance. -These sons of penitence and mortification possess one of the most -spacious islands of the whole cluster, a princely habitation, with -gardens and open porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what -adds not a little to the charms of their abode, is the facility of -making excursions from it, whenever they have a mind. - -The republic, jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives at these -amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and churchmen, -prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the eyes of the -people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere flesh and blood, -and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest of Italy been of the -same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo's maxims, some of its -fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie uncultivated, and its -ancient spirit might have revived. However, I can scarcely think the -moment far distant, when it will assert its natural prerogatives, and -look back upon the tiara, with all its host of scaring phantoms, as the -offspring of a feverish dream. - -Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; -and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of -steps which lead to the Redentore, a structure so simple and elegant, -that I thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked about for -the statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful divinity. A huge -crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times present. - -The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of rueful -martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards of -capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers had -decorated the nave with orange and citron trees, placed between the -pilasters of the arcades; and on grand festivals, it seems, they turn -the whole church into a bower, strew the pavement with leaves, and -festoon the dome with flowers. - -I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. It was -mid-day, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where I might -dine in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off in an instant; -but, though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished to advance still -faster, and getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the waters, -soon left the Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into the plains -of shining sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, fleeting -before me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores of the distant -continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion of my boat, and to -fly with equal celerity. - -I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the -waters--the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their surface. -Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the Carthusian garden, -before I recollected where I was, or could look attentively around me. -Permission being obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting -aside with my hands the boughs of figs and pomegranates, got under an -ancient bay-tree on the summit of a little knoll, near which several -tall pines lift themselves up to the breezes. I listened to the -conversation they held, with a wind just flown from Greece, and charged, -as well as I could understand this airy language, with many -affectionate remembrances from their relations on Mount Ida. - -I reposed amidst fragrant leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it -pleased the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of fruit -and wine. Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand questions -about Lord George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was deeply -engaged with the winds, and a thousand agreeable associations excited by -my Grecian fancies, wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded -ignorance of the Italian language. This circumstance extricated me from -my embarrassment, and procured me a long interval of repose. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals formerly - celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The - Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossal - Statues.--Giants' Stairs.--Fit of enthusiasm.--Evening-scene in the - great Square.--Venetian intrigue.--Confusion of languages.--Madame - de Rosenberg.--Character of the Venetians. - - -The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other -old story-tellers, and I dozed undisturbed till the people without, in -the boat, (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what was become of me -within,) began a sort of chorus in parts, full of such plaintive -modulation, that I still thought myself under the influence of a dream, -and, half in this world and half in the other, believed, like the heroes -of Fingal, that I had caught the music of the spirits of the hill. - -When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I moved -towards the shore whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay before me; no -gale ruffled the expanse; every breath had subsided, and I beheld the -sun go down in all its sacred calm. You have experienced the sensations -this moment inspires; imagine what they must have been in such a scene, -and accompanied with a melody so simple and pathetic. I stepped into my -boat, and now instead of encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, begged -them to abate their ardour, and row me lazily home. They complied, and -we were near an hour reaching the platform in front of the ducal palace, -thronged as usual with a variety of nations. I mixed a moment with the -crowd; then directed my steps to the great mosque, I ought to say the -church of St. Mark; but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and -semicircular arches, have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse this -appellation. I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of bronze -and gold that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one glance, -the whole extent of the piazza, with its towers and standards. A more -noble assemblage was never exhibited by architecture. I envied the good -fortune of Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a tournament -held in this princely opening. - -Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When Henry the -Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed through -Venice, and found the Senate waiting to receive him in their famous -square, which by means of an awning stretched from the balustrades of -opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling with -artificial stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. What -a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith of power and -luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to them, however, the Venetians -are indebted for the hint, since we read of the Coliseo and Pompey's -theatre being sometimes covered with transparent canvas, to defend the -spectators from the heat or sudden rain, and to tint the scene with soft -agreeable colours. - -Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to enter -into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three -standards before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true -spirit of the antique, and covered with relievos, at once bold and -elegant. It is also to this celebrated architect we are indebted for the -stately faade of the _Procuratie nuove_, which forms one side of the -square, and presents an uninterrupted series of arcades and marble -columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this magnificent range appears -another line of palaces, whose architecture, though far removed from the -Grecian elegance of Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the -pomp of the view. - -There is something strange and singular in the Tower or Campanile, which -rises distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the -left as you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark's. The design is -barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet in spite of -these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful building called the -Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during the convocation of -the Grand Council, decorates its base. Nothing can be more enriched, -more finished than this structure; which, though far from diminutive, is -in a manner lost at the foot of the Campanile. This enormous fabric -seems to promise a long duration, and will probably exhibit Saint Mark -and his Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear in great state towards -its summit, and have nothing superior, but an archangel perched on the -topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the skies. The dusk prevented my -remarking the various sculptures with which the Loggetta is crowded. - -Crossing the ample space between this graceful edifice and the ducal -palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the -principal court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible at -so late an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze richly sculptured diversify -the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps presents itself, by -which the senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, which lead -to the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues of Mars and Neptune -guard the entrance, and have given the appellation of _scala dei -giganti_ to the steps below, which I mounted not without respect; and, -leaning against the balustrades, formed like the rest of the building of -the rarest marbles, contemplated the tutelary divinities. - -My admiration was shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or officers -of police, who take their stands after sunset before the avenues of the -palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point of being closed. -So, hurrying down the steps, I left a million of delicate sculptures -unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, every entablature, is -encrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some other precious marble, -carved into as many grotesque wreaths of foliage as we admire in the -loggie of Raphael. The various portals, the strange projections; in -short, the striking irregularity of these stately piles, delighted me -beyond idea; and I was sorry to be forced to abandon them so soon, -especially as the twilight, which bats and owls love not better than I -do, enlarged every portico, lengthened every colonnade, and increased -the dimensions of the whole, just as imagination desired. This faculty -would have had full scope had I but remained an hour longer. The moon -would then have gleamed upon the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and -discovered the statues of ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of -their niches. - -Such an interesting combination of objects, such regal scenery, with the -reflection that many of their ornaments once contributed to the -decoration of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri thought -me distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about like an actor -in an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands to the consecrated -fanes and images around, expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, -and declaiming the first verses of OEdipus Tyrannus. - -This fit of enthusiasm was hardly subsided, when I passed the gates of -the palace into the great square, which received a faint gleam from its -casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, and to become the -resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were walking in parties upon -the pavement; some sought the convenient gloom of the porticoes with -their favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, and -filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to drink -coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A thoughtless giddy -transport prevailed; for, at this hour, anything like restraint seems -perfectly out of the question; and however solemn a magistrate or -senator may appear in the day, at night he lays up wig and robe and -gravity to sleep together, runs intriguing about in his gondola, takes -the reigning sultana under his arm, and so rambles half over the town, -which grows gayer and gayer as the day declines. - -Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in some -out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families -are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel -undisturbed with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself -cannot discover the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected doors, -by which these retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, whose -mistress disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has searched -for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though the prime -managers of intrigue, are often unacquainted with these interior -cabinets. When a gallant has a mind to pursue his adventures with -mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders his bark to wait, meets his -goddess in the crowd, and vanishes from all beholders. Surely, Venice is -the city in the universe best calculated for giving scope to the -observations of a devil upon two sticks. What a variety of -lurking-places would one stroke of his crutch uncover! - -Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, the -rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and mountebanks, -singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. I observed a -great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard Turkish and -Arabic muttering in every corner. Here the Sclavonian dialect -predominated; there some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. Had -Saint Mark's church been the wondrous tower, and its piazza the chief -square, of the city of Babylon, there could scarcely have been a greater -confusion of languages. - -The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, and I -wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic to -another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, and -settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the same -breath. This instant I found myself in a circle of grave Armenian -priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, who -accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave proof that their -reputation for pliability and address was not ill-founded. - -I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian -counts or princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs, and -footmen, and governors, and staring like me, about them, when Madame de -Rosenberg arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. She -presented me to some of the most distinguished of the Venetian families -at their great casino, which looks into the piazza, and consists of five -or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, neither rich nor elegant, -where were a great many lights, and a great many ladies negligently -dressed, their hair falling very freely about them, and innumerable -adventures written in their eyes. The gentlemen were lolling upon the -sofas, or lounging about the apartments. - -The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was -carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; and, -for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of pleasing -extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing remained -save cards and stupidity. - -In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the affairs -of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and two or three -of them asked some feeble questions about the late tumults in London. It -was one o'clock before all the company were assembled, and I left them -at three, still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. Trieze is -their favourite game: _uno_, _due_, _tre_, _quatro_, _cinque_, _fante_, -_cavallo re_, are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other -sound. - -I wonder a lively people can endure such monotony, for I have been told -the Venetians are remarkably spirited; and so eager in the pursuit of -amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for instance, -after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the square, and -fidgeting about from one casino to another till morning dawns, will get -into a gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or -Fusina, and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, -and rattle back again as if the Devil were charioteer: by eleven the -party is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes to -council. - -This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as -examples of vivacity. Their nerves unstrung by early debaucheries, allow -no natural flow of lively spirits, and at best but a few moments of a -false and feverish activity. The approaches of sleep, forced back by an -immoderate use of coffee, render them weak and listless, and the -facility of being wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds not a -little to their indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern -neighbours in a more lazy light; who, thanks to their opium and their -harems, pass their lives in one perpetual doze. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary shore.--Scene of - the Doge's nuptials with the sea.--Return to the Place of St. - Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles for anonymous - accusations.--The Council of Ten.--Terrible punishments of its - victims.--Statue of Neptune.--Fatal Waters.--Bridge of Sighs.--The - Fondamenti Nuovi.--Conservatory of the Mendicanti.--An - Oratorio.--Profound attention of the Audience. - - -August 4th, 1780. - -The heats were so excessive in the night, that I thought myself several -times on the point of suffocation, tossed about like a wounded fish, and -dreamt of the Devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, a faint breeze -restored me to life and reason. I slumbered till late in the day, and -the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier to row out to the -main ocean, that I might plunge into the waves, and hear and see nothing -but waters around me. - -We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, casinos, -and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, without any -apparent foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to be seen -before the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the bark, and -the vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the waters, and -but just above their level. I observed several, as I glided along, -supported by rows of well-proportioned columns, adorned with terms and -vases, beyond which the eye generally discovers a grand court, and -sometimes a garden. - -In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles behind, -and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio Maggiore, -whose elegant frontispiece was distinctly reflected by the calm waters, -launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Carthusian -and two or three other woody islands. I hailed the spot where I had -passed such a happy visionary evening, and nodded to my friends the -pines. - -A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked over -by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go regularly -to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be hoped, to -paradise; as the air of their barracks is abominable, and kills them -like blasted sheep. - -Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene of -the Doge's pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the very spot to -which he sails in the Bucentaur, previously to wedding the sea. You have -heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen full -sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon the topic. -I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, partly, the same road as -the nuptial procession, in order to reach the beach, and was broiled and -dazzled accordingly. - -At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with toads -and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of being -interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless plains of -ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, extending on both -sides out of sight, and dashed into the waves, which were coursing one -another with a gentle motion, and breaking lightly on the shores. The -tide rolled over me as I lay floating about, buoyed up by the water, and -carried me wheresoever it listed. It might have borne me far out into -the main before I had been aware, so totally was I abandoned to the -illusion of the moment. My ears were filled with murmuring undecided -sounds; my limbs, stretched languidly on the surge, rose or sunk just as -it swelled or subsided. In this passive state I remained, till the sun -cast a less intolerable light, and the fishing-vessels, lying out in the -bay at a great distance, spread their sails and were coming home. - -Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the -gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to those -venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. Directing my -course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the grand court, -ascending the giants' stairs, and examined at my leisure its -bas-reliefs. Then, taking the first guide that presented himself, I was -shown along several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable -pillars, into the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo Veronese -have covered with the triumphs of their country. - -A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one of the -first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, before -a solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly seemed -equally affected. Clouds of powder, and volleys of execrations issuing -every instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; and was led -from hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary -resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved with decency, -having never once expressed how much I wished the chefs-d'oeuvre I had -been contemplating, less smoky and numerous. - -At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and caught -the sea-breeze in the open porticoes which front San Giorgio Maggiore. -The walls are covered in most places with grim visages sculptured in -marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow every lie that -malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few ears of the same -kind, dispersed about the Doge's residence, to which one might apply -one's own, and catch some account of the mysteries within; some little -dialogue between the three Inquisitors, or debate in the Council of Ten. - -This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual awe; -before which they appear with trembling and terror; and whose summons -they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it condemns its -victims to perpetual imprisonment, in close, stifling cells, between -the leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood of a -fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under the -canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, its majesty -is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. What other sovereign could -endure the idea of having his immediate residence polluted with tears? -or revel in his halls, conscious that many of his species were consuming -their hours in lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams -separated him from the scene of their tortures? However gaily disposed, -could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath which lie damp and -gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away by painful degrees, and -feel themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, -I could not regard the palace without horror, and wished for the -strength of a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay open -the secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and sunshine -into every den. - -When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of -Neptune, whom twenty ages ago I should have invoked to second my -enterprise. Once upon a time no deity had a freer hand at razing cities. -His execution was renowned throughout all antiquity, and the proudest -monarchs deprecated the wrath of [Greek: KREIN ENOSICHTHN]. But, like -the other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is past and his trident -disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit found favour in the eyes of -fortune, and was led along the career of glory to the deliverance of -captives and the extirpation of monsters; but, in our degenerate times, -this easy road to fame is no longer open, and the means of producing -such signal events are perplexed and difficult. - -Abandoning therefore the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, I left -the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal -overshadowed by the lofty walls of the palace. Beneath these fatal -waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of are situated. There the -wretches lie marking the sound of the oars, and counting the free -passage of every gondola. Above, a marble bridge, of bold majestic -architecture, joins the highest part of the prisons to the secret -galleries of the palace; from whence criminals are conducted over the -arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I shuddered whilst passing below; -and believe it is not without cause, this structure is named PONTE DEI -SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I -could not dine in peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but -snatching my pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain -of fear and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful engines in -the style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and refreshed myself with the -cool air and cheerful scenery of the Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or -terrace of white marble, which commands the whole series of isles, from -San Michele to Torcello, - - "That rise and glitter o'er the ambient tide." - -Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas -which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now and -then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called Il -Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse. - -When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, M. -de Benincasa accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four -conservatorios, which give the best musical education conceivable to -near one hundred young women. You may imagine how admirably those of -the Mendicanti in particular are taught, since their establishment is -under the direction of Bertoni, who breathes around him the very soul of -harmony. The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio was dark and -solemn; a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black marble and highly -polished, reflected the lamps which burn perpetually before the altar. -Every tribune was thronged with people, whose profound silence showed -them worthy auditors of this master's music. Here were no cackling old -women, or groaning Methodists, such as infest our English tabernacles, -and scare one's ears with hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso -obligato. All were still and attentive, imbibing the plaintive notes of -the voices with eagerness; and scarce a countenance but seemed deeply -affected with David's sorrows, the subject of the performance. I sat -retired in a solitary tribune, and felt them as my own. Night came on -before the last chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its sacred -melody. - - - - -LETTER V. - - M. de Viloison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings of ancient - Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian's - master-piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo.--The distant - Euganean hills. - - -August 18, 1780. - -It rains; the air is refreshed and I have courage to resume my pen, -which the sultry weather had forced to lie dormant so long. I like this -odd town of Venice, and find every day some new amusement in rambling -about its innumerable canals and alleys. Sometimes I pry about the great -church of Saint Mark, and examine the variety of marbles and mazes of -delicate sculpture with which it is covered. The cupola, glittering with -gold, mosaic, and paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never -fails to transport me to the period of the Eastern empire. I think -myself in Constantinople, and expect Michael Paleologus with all his -train. One circumstance alone prevents my observing half the treasures -of the place, and holds down my fancy just springing into the air: I -mean the vile stench which exhales from every recess and corner of the -edifice, and which all the incense of the altars cannot subdue. - -When no longer able to endure this noxious atmosphere, I run up the -Campanile in the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the -gallery, breathe the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at -my leisure all Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and -long tracks of islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a -provision of wholesome breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, and -venture into the most curious and murky quarters of the city, in search -of Turks and Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I please -about Cairo and Damascus. - -Asiatics find Venice very much to their taste, and all those I conversed -with allowed its customs and style of living had a good deal of -conformity to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee-houses and -sipping of sorbets agree perfectly well with the inhabitants of the -Ottoman empire, who stalk about here in their proper dresses, and smoke -their own exotic pipes, without being stared and wondered at as in most -other European capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative -and enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond the -rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile affairs. - -The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their -propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has been -lately translated into their modern language, and some obliging papa or -other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia into -a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on a stall, -under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went one day to -admire the antiques in its vestibules. - -Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should -have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de Viloison, from a -place where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other -utensils were ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active -investigator of Homer since the days of the good bishop of Thessalonica, -bespatters you with more learning in a minute than others communicate in -half a year; quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, &c. with formidable -fluency; and drove me from one end of the room to the other with a storm -of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than hail, and in an instant I -found myself so weighed down and covered, that I prayed, for mercy's -sake, to be introduced, by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads -about as a curiosity; a poor harmless good sort of a soul, calm and -indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental languages to -perfection: ideas he has in none. - -We went all together to view a collection of medals in one of the -Gradanigo palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with -paintings that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that I -had an opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland -nothingness of my companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent as the -polar regions, not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not one -bright ray of fancy ever glittered in his mind; without love or anger, -pleasure or pain, his days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, -I must confess I envied such comfortable apathy. - -After having passed an instructive hour in examining the medals and -drawings, M. de Viloison proposed conducting me to the Armenian convent, -but I begged to be excused, and went to San Giovanni e Paolo, a church -to be held most holy in the annals of painting, since it contains that -masterpiece of Titian, the martyrdom of the hermits St. Paul and St. -Peter. - -In the evening I rowed out as usual - - "On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea," - -to observe the effect of sunset on the tufted gardens of the Giudeca, -and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the happiest region -of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the simplicity of a pastoral -life, long before the arrival of Antenor. In these primeval days deep -forests and extensive pastures covered the shores of the Adriatic, and -innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. This golden period -ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and Heneti; who, led by Antenor, -drove away the unfortunate savages, and possessed themselves of their -habitations. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous city of - Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music on the inhabitants of - the Islands.--Solitary fields infested by serpents.--Remains of - ancient sculpture.--Antique and fantastic ornaments of the - Cathedral of Torcello.--San Lorenzo's chair.--Dine in a - Convent.--The Nuns.--Oratorio of Sisera.--Remarks on the - music.--Singing of the Marchetti.--A female orchestra. - - -I am just returned from visiting the isles of Burano, Torcello, and -Mazorbo, distant about five miles from Venice. To these amphibious spots -the Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, fled from the rapine of -Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, there was a time when they -presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond them, on the coast of the -Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, with its six stately -gates, which Dandolo mentions. Its neighbourhood was scattered with -innumerable villas and temples, composing altogether a prospect which -Martial compares to Bai: - - "mula Baianis Altini littora villis." - -But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely away, -and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and mis-shapen fragments, -to vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, Costanziaco -and Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the bowers and gardens -of the Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; those which remain are -scarcely worthy to rise above their surface. - -Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I could -not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of the earth -once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the roofs, perhaps, -of undiscovered palaces. M. de R. to whom I communicated my ideas, -entered at once into the scheme; hiring therefore a _peiotte_, we took -some provisions and music (to us equally necessaries of life) and -launched into the canal, between Saint Michael and Murano. Our -instruments played several delightful airs, that called forth the -inhabitants of every island, and held them in silence, as if -spell-bound, on the edge of their quays and terraces, till we were out -of hearing. - -Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets began to -sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie -stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of purple flowers, -and could distinguish the low hum of the insects which hover above them; -such was the stillness of the place. Coasting these solitary fields, we -wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered by gardens of figs and -pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures of cane and reed: an -aromatic plant, which the people justly dignify with the title of marine -incense, clothes the margin of the waters. It proved very serviceable in -subduing a musky odour, which attacked us the moment we landed, and -which proceeds from serpents that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say -the gondoliers, defend immense treasures which lie buried under the -ruins. Woe to those who attempt to invade them, or to pry too cautiously -about! - -Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mound of fragments -unnoticed, and made the best of our way to a little green, bounded on -one side by a miserable shed, decorated with the name of the Podesta's -residence, and on the other by a circular church. Some remains of -tolerable antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; and the dome, -supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though uncouth and -ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and transports the -fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it was raised. - -Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career to our -imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil composed of -crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose arches, in the -ancient Roman style, convinced us that it dates at least as high as the -sixth or seventh century. - -Nothing can well be more fantastic than the ornaments of this structure, -formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and encrusted with -a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the Confessor's tomb. -The pavement, composed of various precious marbles, is richer and more -beautiful than one could have expected, in a place where every other -object savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther end, beyond the -altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like the gradines of a -diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms of the apostles, in -red, blue, green, and black mosaic, and in the midst of the group a -sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, where Saint Lorenzo -Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the Lord knows how long -ago! The fount for holy water stands by the principal entrance, fronting -this curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some place of Gentile -worship. The figures of horned imps clinging round its sides, more -devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever beheld. The dragons on old -china are not more whimsical; filled with bats' blood it would have been -an admirable present to the sabbath of witches, and have cut a capital -figure in their orgies. The sculpture is not the most delicate, but I -cannot say a great deal about it, as very little light reaches the spot -where it is fixed: indeed, the whole church is far from luminous, its -windows being narrow and near the roof, with shutters composed of blocks -of marble, which nothing but the whirlwinds of the last day, one should -think, would move from their hinges. - -By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular -edifice, and tried to catch some small portion of sanctity by sitting in -San Lorenzo's chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring convent, and -the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, peeped out of -their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the grate. Some few -agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark sisterhood; all -seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the music; two or three of -them, probably the last immured, let fall a tear, and suffered the -recollection of the world and its profane joys to interrupt for a moment -their sacred tranquillity. - -We stayed till the sun was low, on purpose that they might listen as -long as possible to a harmony which seemed to issue, as the old abbess -expressed herself, from the gates of paradise ajar. A thousand -benedictions consecrated our departure; twilight came on just as we -entered the bark and rowed out upon the waves, agitated by a fresh gale, -but fearing nothing under the protection of Santa Margherita, whose good -wishes our music had secured. - -In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went -immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the oratorio -of Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great fire and -originality in this performance; and a knowledge of character seldom -found in the most celebrated masters. The supplication of the thirsty -chieftain, and Jael's insinuating arts and pious treachery, are -admirably expressed; but the agitation and boding slumbers which precede -his death, are imagined in the highest strain of genius. The terror and -agony of his dreams made me start, more than once, from my seat; and all -the horrors of his assassination seemed full before me. - -Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the part of -Sisera, and seconded the composer's ideas by the most feeling and -spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret more on leaving -Venice, than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I fly to -it, and hear the most striking finales in Paesiello's and Anfossi's -operas, as long and often as I please. - -The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, I suppose, it -is entirely of the feminine gender, and that nothing is more common than -to see a delicate white hand journeying across an enormous double bass, -or a pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, at a French -horn. Some that are grown old and Amazonian, who have abandoned their -fiddles and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettle-drum; and one -poor limping lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an admirable -figure on the bassoon. - -Good night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for this -angelic choir. The poetry I send you. The music takes up too much room -to travel at present. One day or other, perhaps, we may hear it in some -dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed and nature in alarm. - -This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, were I not -hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in Bertoni's -opera of Quinto Fabio. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Coast of Fusina.--The Brenta.--A Village of - Palaces.--Fiesso.--Exquisite singing of the Galuzzi.--Marietta - Cornaro.--Scenes of enchantment and fascination. - - -I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my peaceful excursions upon -the Adriatic. No bright rays illuminated my departure, the sun was -concealed in clouds; but the coolness and perfume of the air made ample -amends for his absence. - -About an hour's rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, brought -us to the coast of Fusina, right opposite the opening where the Brenta -mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between banks of verdure, -crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every stalk, and depending -from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint and iris clothe -the brink of the stream, except where interrupted by a tall growth of -reeds and osiers. The morning continued to lower as we advanced; scarce -a wind ventured to breathe: all was still and placid as the surface of -the river. No sound struck my ears except the bargemen hallooing to open -the sluices, and deepen the water. - -As yet I had not perceived an habitation, nor any other objects than -green inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and -poplars. It grew late before we glided along by the Mira, a village of -palaces, whose courts and gardens, as magnificent as statues, terraces, -and vases can make them, are far from composing a rural prospect. - -Such artificial scenery not engaging much of my attention, we stayed no -longer than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before -sunset. Passing the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering -noise, we continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its -broad full stream through impenetrable copses. Day was about to close -when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty evening, I could scarcely -distinguish the pompous faade of the Pisani palace. That of Cornaro, -where we were engaged to sup, looks upon a broad mass of foliage which -I contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the dusk. - -We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the entrance, -breathing the freshness of the wood after a shower which had lately -fallen. The Galuzzi sang some of her father Ferandini's compositions -with surprising energy; her cheek was flushed, her eyes glistened; the -whole tone of her countenance was that of a person rapt and inspired. I -forgot both time and place while she was singing. The night stole -imperceptibly away, before I awoke from my trance. - -I do not recollect ever to have passed an evening, which every -circumstance conspired to render so full of charm. In general, my -musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the phlegm and -stupidity of my neighbourhood; but here, every one seemed to catch the -flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. Marietta Cornaro, whose -lively talents are the boast of the Venetians, threw quick around her -the glancing fires of genius. - -What with the song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual meteors, I -scarcely knew to what element I was transported, and doubted for -several moments, whether I was not fallen into a celestial dream: to -wake was painful, and it was not without much lingering reluctance I -left these scenes of enchantment and fascination, repeating with -melancholy earnestness that pathetic sonnet of Petrarch's-- - - O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento, - O stelle congiurate a' impoverirme! - O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme, - Partend' io, per non esser mai contento? - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Reveries.--Walls of Padua.--Confused Pile dedicated to Saint - Anthony.--Devotion at his Shrine.--Penitential - Worshippers.--Magnificent Altar.--Sculpture of Sansovino.--Colossal - Chamber like Noah's Ark. - - -The splendour of the rising sun, for once in my life, drew little of my -attention. I was too deeply plunged in my reveries, to notice the -landscape which lay before me; and the walls of Padua presented -themselves some time ere I was aware. At any other moment, how sensibly -should I have been affected with their appearance! How many ideas of -Antenor and his Trojans, would have thronged into my memory! but now I -regarded the scene with indifference, and passed many a palace, and many -a woody garden, with my eyes riveted to the ground. The first object -that appeared upon lifting them up, was a confused pile of spires and -cupolas, dedicated to blessed Saint Anthony, one of whose most eloquent -sermons the great Addison has translated _con amore_, and in his very -best manner. - -You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained -for this inspired preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to his -shrine. Mine was a disturbed spirit, and required all the balm of Saint -Anthony's kindness to appease it. Perhaps you will say I had better have -gone to bed, and applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. -It is probable that you are in the right; but I could not retire to rest -without first venting some portion of effervescence in sighs and -supplications. The nave was filled with decrepit women and feeble -children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and other provisions; which, -by good Anthony's interposition, they hoped to sell advantageously in -the course of the day. Beyond these, nearer the choir, and in a gloomier -part of the edifice, knelt a row of rueful penitents, smiting their -breasts, and lifting their eyes to heaven. Further on, in front of the -dark recess, where the sacred relics are deposited, a few desperate, -melancholy sinners lay prostrate. - -To these I joined myself. The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this -religious quarter; and the only light it received proceeded from the -golden lamps, which hang in clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, -decked with the most lavish magnificence, supports the shrine. Those who -are profoundly touched with its sanctity, may approach, and walking -round, look through the crevices of the tomb, which, it is observed, -exude a balsamic odour. But supposing a traveller ever so heretical, I -would advise him by no means to neglect this pilgrimage; since every -part of the recess he visits is decorated with exquisite sculptures. -Sansovino and other renowned artists have vied with each other in -carving the alto relievos of the arcade, which, for design and -execution, would do honour to the sculptors of antiquity. - -Having observed these objects with less exactness than they merited, I -hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am -acquainted with. Here I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. It is -true my slumbers were not a little agitated. The saint had been deaf to -my prayer, and I still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal. - -At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards scarcely knowing, nor much -caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall of the town; -an enormous edifice, larger considerably than that of Westminster, but -free from stalls, or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one -spacious vault of brown timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still -increased by the lateness of the hour, and not diminished by the wan -light, admitted through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and -shape of this colossal chamber, the arching of the roof, with enormous -rafters stretching across it, and, above all, the watery gleams that -glanced through the dull casements, possessed my fancy with ideas of -Noah's ark, and almost persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary vessel. -The representation one sees of it in many an old Dutch Bible, seems to -be formed upon this very model, and for several moments I indulged the -chimera of imagining myself confined within its precincts. Could I but -choose my companions, I should have no great objection to encounter a -deluge, and to float away a few months upon the waves! - -We remained till night walking to and fro in the ark; it was then full -time to retire, as the guardian of the place was by no means formed to -divine our diluvian ideas. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous - attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini's music.--Another - excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean hills.--Newly - discovered ruins.--High Mass in the great Church of Saint - Anthony.--A thunder-storm.--Palladio's Theatre at - Vicenza.--Verona.--An arial chamber.--Striking prospect from - it.--The Amphitheatre.--Its interior.--Leave Verona.--Country - between that town and Mantua.--German soldiers.--Remains of the - palace of the Gonzagas.--Paintings of Julio Romano.--A ruined - garden.--Subterranean apartments. - - -Immediately after breakfast we went to St. Justina's. Both extremities -of the cross aisles are terminated by altar-tombs of very remote -antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of the evangelists, supported -by wreathed columns of alabaster, round which, to my no small -astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were waddling on their knees, -persuaded, it seems, that this strange devotion would cure the -rheumatism, or any other aches with which they were afflicted. You can -have no conception of the ridiculous attitudes into which they threw -themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, between -the middle column of the tomb and those which surround it. No criminal -in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful appearance, no swine ever -scrubbed itself more fervently than these infatuated lubbers. - -I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their lot -for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to -Turini's[7] music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious tones -of the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by the -echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful effect. -Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions with great -intelligence to the place. Nothing can be more original than his style. -Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower of his days, he -gave up his entire soul to music, and can scarcely be said to exist, but -from its mediums. - -When we came out of St. Justina's, the azure of the sky and the softness -of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. Where could I wish to -go, but to the place in which I had been so delighted? Besides, it was -proper to make the Cornaro another visit, and proper to see the Pisani -palace, which happily I had before neglected. All these proprieties -considered, Madame de R. accompanied me to Fiesso. - -The sun was just sunk when we arrived. The whole ether in a glow, and -the fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath them I -walked in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting -melody. She sang till the fineness of the weather tempted us to quit the -palace for the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned upon the -woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a scene naturally -peaceful. - -We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had most -affected me, morning began to dawn. - - -September 8th. - -The want of sound repose, after my return home, had thrown me into a -feverish and impatient mood. I had scarcely snatched some slight -refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina's; but -tried this time to compose myself, in vain. - -Madame de Rosenberg, finding my endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by -way of diverting my attention, that we should set out immediately for -one of the Euganean hills, about six or seven miles from Padua, at the -foot of which some antique baths had been very lately discovered. I -consented without hesitation, little concerned whither I went, or what -happened to me, provided the scene was often shifted. The lanes and -inclosures we passed, in our road to the hills, appeared in all the -gaiety that verdure, flowers, and sunshine could give them. But my -pleasures were overcast, and I beheld every object, however cheerful, -through a dusky medium. - -Deeply engaged in conversation, distance made no impression, and I found -myself entering the meadow, over which the ruins are scattered, whilst I -imagined myself several miles distant. No scene could be more smiling -than this which here presented itself, or answer, in a fuller degree, -the ideas I had always formed of Italy. - -Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the meadow, we traversed its -surface, and shortly perceived among the grass, an oblong basin, -incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large and -perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and still retaining their -polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still perfectly -discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. Near -the principal bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular -apartments, paved with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from -inelegant. Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the -freshness of the ruin everywhere shows that it has not long been -exposed. - -Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; and -Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to maintain -the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any learned -parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with all its -importance, to calmer and less impatient minds. - -Having taken a cursory view of the ruins, we ascended the hill just -above them, and surveyed a prospect of the same nature, though in a more -lovely and expanded style than that which I beheld from Mosolente. Padua -crowns the landscape, with its towers and cupolas rising from a -continued grove; and, from the drawings I have seen, I should -conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of a similar appearance. - -Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we brought them home to the -fragments beneath our feet. The walls exhibit the _opus reticulatum_, so -common in the environs of Naples. A sort of terrace, with the remaining -bases of columns which encircle the hill, leads me to imagine here were -formerly arcades and porticos, constructed for enjoying the view; for on -the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable edifice, and am -therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more than a colonnade -surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight fane, or pavilion, -for the recreation of the bathers below. - -A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled -additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour approached, -which was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, and to restore -the tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But now it diffused its -reviving coolness in vain, and I remained, if possible, more sad and -restless than before. - - -September 9th. - -You may imagine how I felt when the hour of leaving Padua drew near. It -happened to be a festival, and high mass was celebrated at the great -church of Saint Anthony in all its splendour. The ceremony was about -half over when such a peal of thunder reverberated through the vaults -and cupolas, as I expected would have shaken them to their foundations. -The principal dome appeared invested with a sheet of fire; and the -effect of terror produced upon the majority of the congregation, by this -sudden lighting up of the most gloomy recesses of the edifice, was so -violent that they rushed out in the wildest confusion. Had my faith been -less lively, I should have followed their example; but, absorbed in the -thought of a separation from those to whom I felt fondly attached, I -remained till the ceremony ended; then took leave of Madame de R. with -heartfelt regret, and was driven away to Vicenza. - - -September 10th. - -The morning being overcast, I went to Palladio's theatre. It is -impossible to conceive a structure more truly classical, or to point out -a single ornament which has not the best antique authority. I am not in -the least surprised that the citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave -in to this great architect's plan, and sacrificed large sums to erect -so beautiful a model. When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, -the representation of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic -decorations. - -After I had mused a long while in the most retired recess of the -edifice, fancying I had penetrated into a real and perfect monument of -antiquity, which till this moment had remained undiscovered, we set out -for Verona. The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of -battlemented walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a -grand irregular sweep, and incloses the city with many a woody garden, -and grove of slender cypress. Beyond rises a group of mountains; -opposite to which a plain presents itself, decked with all the variety -of meads and thickets, olive-grounds and vineyards. - -Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, and -passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) to the -inn, a lofty handsome-looking building; but so full that we were obliged -to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to all the winds, -like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions, and commanding the roofs of -half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up amongst them, and the shady -hills, terminating the perspective of walls and turrets, formed a -romantic scene. - -Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater -freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Guarda, and the delicious -fruits of the country. Thus did I remain, solacing myself, breathing the -cool air, and remarking the tints of the mountains. Neither paintings -nor antiques could tempt me from my arial situation; I refused hunting -out the famous works of Paul Veronese scattered over the town, and sat -like the owl in the Georgics, - - Solis et occasum servans de culmine summo. - -Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing down stairs, enquired -for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the most entire -monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead of bringing me -a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a professed antiquary, -one of those precise plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have -so capital an aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little -erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with -eternal fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of conduits, and -knew to admiration how the filthiness of all the amphitheatre was -disposed of. - -But perceiving my inattention, and having just grace enough to remark -that I chose one side of the street when he preferred the other, and -sometimes trotted through despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty -bow, I threw him half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed -a gloomy arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf covers -its surface, from which a spacious sweep of gradines rises to a majestic -elevation. Four arches, with their simple Doric ornament, alone remain -of the grand circular arcade which once crowned the highest seats of the -amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of the -structure would have equally resisted the ravages of time. Nothing can -be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not a block has -sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries they may have -received have been carefully repaired. The two chief entrances are -rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage being permitted -through the amphitheatre except at public shows and representations, -sometimes still given in the arena. - -When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed, and nothing -moved, except the weeds and grasses which skirt the walls and tremble -with the faintest breeze. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle -of the arena, I enjoyed the freedom of my situation, its profound -stillness and solitude. How long I remained shut in by endless gradines -on every side, wrapped as it were in the recollections of perished ages, -is not worth noting down; but when I passed from the amphitheatre to the -opening before it, night was drawing on, and the grand outline of a -terrific feudal fortress, once inhabited by the Scaligeri, alone dimly -visible. - - -September 11th. - -Traversing once more the grand piazza, and casting a last glance upon -the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty arch which terminates the -perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, picturesque street, -commanding, whenever you look back, a striking scene of towers, cypress, -and mountains. - -The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one -continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, with here and there a knot of -poplars, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself rises out of a -morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so choked -up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It requires a creative -imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and a strong -prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where Virgil was born. - -The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what -croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea being -scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and refused -stirring out till late in the evening. - -A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the -Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, and was -amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by the bold pencil of -Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and the arabesques, with -which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal those of the Vatican. Being -painted in fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their -number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away. - -The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the -purity and gracefulness of Raphael; the story of Polypheme is very -conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his beloved Galatea, on the -shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic enemy, seated above on the -brow of tna, seems by the paleness and horrors of his countenance to -meditate some terrible revenge. - -When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked into -a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with -fountains and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst -weeds and beds of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered -with vegetation. Here nettles grow thick and rampant; there, tuberoses -and jessamine spring from mounds of ruins, which during the elegant -reign of the Gonzagas led to grottoes and subterranean apartments, -concealed from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most refined enjoyments. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge of - the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected with those - mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to Bologna.--Magnificent - Convent of Madonna del Monte.--Natural and political commotions in - Bologna.--Proceed towards the mountains.--Dreary prospects.--The - scenery improves.--Herds of goats.--A run with them.--Return to the - carriage.--Wretched hamlet.--Miserable repast. - - -September 12th, 1780. - -A shower, having fallen, the air was refreshed, and the drops still -glittered upon the vines, through which our road conducted us. Three or -four miles from Mantua the scene changed to extensive grounds of rice, -and meads of the tenderest verdure watered by springs, whose frequent -meanders gave to the whole prospect the appearance of a vast green -carpet shot with silver. Further on we crossed the Po, and passing -Guastalla, entered a woody country full of inclosures and villages; -herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry parading before every wicket. - -The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon the -elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that hang -streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised to find -myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every road -crowded with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine a -pleasanter scene. - -Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of that -sketch-inviting little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus -might have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, -swarming with bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, enabled us to -pass too rapidly through so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of -fields and copses as we were driven along, that could have afforded me -amusement for hours, and orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I -could have walked till evening. The trees literally bent under their -loads of fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the -ground. - -Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional -splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the irregular -ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a striking contrast -to the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed my eyes on the chain -of distant mountains, and indulged a thousand romantic conjectures of -what was passing in their recesses--hermits absorbed in -prayer--beautiful Contadine fetching water from springs, and banditti -conveying their victims, perhaps at this very moment, to caves and -fastnesses. - -Such were the dreams that filled my fancy, and kept it incessantly -employed till it was dusk, and the moon began to show herself; the same -moon which but a few nights ago had seen me so happy at Fiesso. I left -the carriage, and running into the dim haze, abandoned myself to the -recollections it excited.... - -At length, having wandered where chance or the wildness of my fancy led, -till the lateness of the evening alarmed me, I regained the chaise as -fast as I could, and arrived between twelve and one at Modena, the place -of my destination. - - -September 13th. - -We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose richness -and fertility encreased in proportion as we drew near that celebrated -mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of hills commands the city, -variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable. On the highest -acclivity of this range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna del -Monte, embosomed in wood and joined to the town by a corridor a league -in length. This vast portico ascending the steeps and winding amongst -the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes visible, produces an -effect wonderfully grand and singular. I longed to have mounted the -height by so extraordinary a passage; and hope on some future day to be -better acquainted with Santa Maria del Monte. - -At present I have very little indeed to say about Bologna (where I -passed only two hours) except that it is sadly out of humour, an -earthquake and Cardinal Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and -people. For half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these -last six months, the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched -incessantly; so that, between natural and political commotions, the -Bolognese must have passed an agreeable summer. - -Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not -likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to another -opportunity, and proceeded immediately after dinner towards the -mountains. We were soon in the midst of crags and stony channels, that -stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, but during the -summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half the scorpions in -the country. - -For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but dreary -hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than those to -which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or chapel peeped out -of the parched fern and grasses, with which these desolate fields are -clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim trudging along, -and staring about him as if he waited only for night and opportunity to -have additional reasons for hurrying to Loretto. - -During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene -increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second -post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green valleys -at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, scattered over -with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which the nakedness of the -impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides of the cliffs in general -consist of rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth and -verdant, and continually browsed by herds of white goats, which were -gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed beneath. - -I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were stretched -by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a few minutes -whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare me with all -their horns. Being tired with skipping and butting at me in vain, the -whole herd trotted away, and I after them. They led me a dance from crag -to crag and from thicket to thicket. - -It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend from -the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what monster -inhabited such retirements, so gave over my pursuit lest some Polypheme -or other might make me repent it. I looked around, the carriage was out -of sight; but hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, I soon came -up with them, and mounted another rapid ascent, from whence an extensive -tract of cliff and forest land was discernible. - -A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, and made a -dismal rustle amongst the woods of chesnut that hung on the mountain's -side, through which we were forced to pass. Walking out of the sound of -the carriage, I began interpreting the language of the leaves, not -greatly to my own advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was -no prophet of good, and had I but commanded an oracle, as ancient -visionaries were wont, I should have flung mischief about me. - -How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, but -believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular forest, and -saw faintly before us an assemblage of miserable huts, where we were to -sleep. This wretched hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak -mountain, and every gust that stirs, shakes the whole village to its -foundations. At our approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns and -invited us with a grin, which I shall always remember, to a dish of -mustard and crows' gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of -tasting, lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, condemned to -mope eternally on the black rafters of the cottage. - -After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots to -make a fire. Pitching my bed in a warm corner I soon fell asleep, and -forgot all my cares and inquietudes. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant - view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the Gallery.--Relics of - ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A Medusa's head by Leonardo da - Vinci.--Curious picture by Polemberg.--The Venus de - Medicis.--Exquisitely sculptured figure of Morpheus.--Vast - Cathedral.--Garden of Boboli.--Views from different parts of - it.--Its resemblance to an antique Roman garden. - - -September 14th, 1780. - -The sun had not been long above the horizon, before we set forward upon -a craggy pavement hewn out of rough cliffs and precipices. Scarcely a -tree was visible, and the few that presented themselves began already to -shed their leaves. The raw nipping air of this desert with difficulty -spares a blade of vegetation; and in the whole range of these extensive -eminences I could not discover a single corn-field or pasture. -Inhabitants, you may guess, there were none. I would defy even a Scotch -highlander to find means of subsistence in so rude a soil. - -Towards mid-day, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, -and began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved as well -as the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, we saw -groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string of mules -and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and peaches from this -little caravan, and spread my repast upon a bank, in the midst of -lavender bushes in full bloom. - -Continuing our route, we bade adieu to the realms of poverty and -barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale, shaded by woody acclivities. -Amongst these we wound along, between groves of poplar and cypress, till -late in the evening. Upon winding a hill we discovered Florence at a -distance surrounded with gardens and terraces rising one above another; -the full moon seemed to shine with a peculiar charm upon this favoured -region. Her serene light on the pale grey of the olive, gave a visionary -and Elysian appearance to the landscape, and I was sorry when I found -myself excluded from it by the gates of Florence. - -I slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it was time next -morning (Sept. 15,) to visit the gallery, and worship the Venus de -Medicis. I felt, upon entering this world of refinement, as if I could -have taken up my abode in it for ever, but, confused with the multitude -of objects, I knew not on which first to bend my attention, and ran -childishly by the ample ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a -parterre, that skims before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers. - -Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the angle -and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with -master-pieces of bronze and marble. A minute brought me to the extremity -of this range, vast as it was; then, flying down a third, adorned in the -same delightful manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and -began to reflect a little more maturely upon the company in which I -found myself. Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, -breathing divinity: and Cybele, the mother of the gods. - -Having regarded these powers with due veneration, I next cast my eyes -upon a black figure, whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of -sleep. You know my fondness for this drowsy personage, and that it is -not the first time I have quitted the most splendid society for him. I -found him at present, of touchstone, with the countenance of a towardly -brat, sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist had not conceived -very poetical ideas of the god, or else he never would have represented -him with so little grace and dignity. - -Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived the -transports of enthusiasm beginning to subside, and felt myself calm -enough to follow the herd of guides and spectators from chamber to -chamber, cabinet to cabinet, without falling into errors of rapture and -admiration. We were led slowly and moderately through the large rooms, -containing the portraits of painters, good, bad, and indifferent, from -Raphael to Liotard; then into a museum of bronzes, which would afford -both amusement and instruction for years. - -When I had rather alarmed than satisfied my curiosity by rapidly running -over a multitude of candelabrums, urns, and sacred utensils, we entered -a small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly decorated, and -filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship in bronze and -various metals, classed in exact order. Here are crowds of diminutive -deities and tutelary lars, to whom the superstition of former days -attributed those midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the -misfortunes of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are -preserved a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and other -grotesque relics of ancient credulity. - -In the centre of the room I remarked a table, beautifully formed of -polished gems, and, near it, the statue of a genius with his familiar -serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the treasured -antiquities. From this chamber we were conducted into another, which -opens to that part of the gallery where the busts of Adrian and Antinous -are placed. Two pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of -ancient armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several -perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of oriental -alabaster about ten feet in height, - - Lucido e terso, e bianco, pi che latte. - -I put my guide's patience to the proof, by lingering to admire the -column and cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are impregnated, -obliged me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of saloons, with low -arched roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure and gold. Several -medallions appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably well -painted, with representations of splendid feasts and tournaments for -which Florence was once so famous. - -A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers the -walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than a Medusa's -head by Leonardo da Vinci. It appears just severed from the body and -cast on the damp pavement of a cavern: a deadly paleness covers the -countenance, and the mouth exhales a pestilential vapour; the snakes, -which fill almost the whole picture, beginning to untwist their folds; -one or two seemed already crept away, and crawling up the rock in -company with toads and other venomous reptiles. - -Here are a great many Polembergs: one in particular, the strangest I -ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls he is -in general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject Virgil -ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst the ruins -of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. These -mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying upon the -damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous lobster, seems -very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable mortal, who sprawls, -though in vain, to escape from his claws. This performance, whimsical as -it is, retains all that softness of tint and delicacy of pencil for -which Polemberg is so renowned. - -Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the painter's choice, I -should have passed over this picture, like a thousand more, and have -brought you immediately to the tribune. Need I say I was spell-bound the -moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus de -Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a beauty no copy -has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs exceeded the liveliest -idea I had formed to myself of their perfection. - -When I had taken my eyes reluctantly away from this beautiful object, I -cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at the -feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant lion -serves him for a pillow; two ample wings, carved with the utmost -delicacy, are gathered under him; two others, budding from his temples, -half-concealed by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid hands scarcely -hold a bunch of poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding to his -influence. Nothing can be more just than the expression of sleep in the -countenance of the little divinity. His lion too is perfectly lulled, -and rests his muzzle upon his fore paws as quiet as a domestic spaniel. -My ill-humour at seeing this deity so grossly sculptured in the gallery, -was dissipated by the gracefulness of his appearance in the tribune. I -was now contented, for the artist had realized my ideas; and, if I may -venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher perfection, and, -at the same time, kept more justly within its province. Sleeping figures -with me always produce the finest illusion; but when I see an archer in -the very act of discharging his arrow, a dancer with one foot in the -air, or a gladiator extending his fist to all eternity, I grow tired, -and view such wearisome attitudes with infinitely more admiration than -pleasure. - -The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the tribune. In -my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, inlaid -with the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered work, -like an old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have turned his -building inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented than the -exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is vast and -solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar in its centre, -inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred feet in diameter. There -is something imposing in this decoration, as it suggests the idea of a -sanctuary, into which none but the holy ought to penetrate. However -profane I might feel myself, I took the liberty of entering, and sat -down in a niche. Not a ray of light reaches this sacred inclosure, but -through the medium of narrow windows, high in the dome, and richly -painted. A sort of yellow tint predominates, which gives additional -solemnity to the altar, and paleness to the votary before it. I was -sensible of the effect, and obtained at least the colour of sanctity. - -Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and feasted -upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked to one of -the bridges across the Arno, and from thence to the garden of Boboli, -which lies behind the Grand Duke's palace, stretched out on the side of -a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, robed by a thick underwood -of bay and myrtle, above which rise several nodding towers, and a long -sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely concealed by ivy. You would -have been enraptured with the broad masses of shade and dusky alleys -that opened as I advanced, with white statues of fauns and sylvans -glimmering amongst them; some of which pour water into sarcophagi of the -purest marble, covered with antique relievos. The capitals of columns -and ancient friezes are scattered about as seats. - -On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves which -spring above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I -followed a winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to a -green platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence deep -beneath, and the tops of the hills which encircle it jagged with pines; -here and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene -extends as far as the eye can reach. - -Still ascending I attained the brow of the eminence, and had nothing but -the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above me. On -this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis-work, clothed -with luxuriant vines. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands extended in -the act of scattering fertility over the country, crowns the summit. - -Descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came to the -orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, with -marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring cedars and -tall arial cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique Roman -garden so vividly into my mind, that, lost in the train of recollections -this idea excited, I expected every instant to be called to the table of -Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticos, and to stretch myself on his -purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for a summons till the approach -of night, I returned delighted with a ramble that had led my imagination -so far into antiquity. - -Friday, Sept. 16.--My impatience to hear Pacchierotti called me up with -the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest of musical -pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a fertile plain, -bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns and villages. We -passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in the afternoon entered the -Lucchese territory, by a clean paved road, which runs through chestnut -copses bordered with broom in blossom, and an immense variety of heaths; -a red soil peeping forth from the vegetation, adds to the richness of -the landscape, which swells all the way into gentle acclivities: and at -about seven or eight miles from the city spreads all round into -mountains, green to their very summits, and diversified with gardens and -palaces. More pleasing scenery can with difficulty be imagined: I was -quite charmed with beholding it, as I knew very well that the opera -would keep me a long while chained down in its neighbourhood. - -Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since I defy -almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. Narrow -streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; everybody -in black, according with the gloom of their habitations, which however -are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having all grated windows, -they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. My spirits fell many -degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when I found Friday was -meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its inhabitants, and no -opera to be performed, I grew wofully out of humour. Instead of a -delightful symphony, I heard nothing for some time but the clatter of -plates and the swearing of waiters. - -Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of -distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin. -Overhearing my sad complaint for want of music, they most generously -determined I should have my fill of it, and, getting together a few -scrapers, began such an academia as drove me to the further end of a -very spacious apartment, whilst they possessed the other. The hopes and -heir of the family--a chubby dolt of between eighteen and nineteen, his -uncle, a thickset smiling personage, and a brace of innocent-looking -younger brothers, plied their fiddles with a hearty good will, waggled -their double chins, and played out of tune with the most happy -unconsciousness, as amateurs are apt to do ninety-nine times in a -hundred. - -Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent -the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely ill, -at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and attendant -females, kept ogling him with great perseverance. Those who could not -get in, squinted through the crevices of the door. Abbates and -greyhounds were fidgetting continually without. In short, I was so -persecuted with questions, criticisms, and concertos, that, pleading -headache and indisposition, I escaped about ten o'clock, and shook -myself when I got safe to my apartment like a worried spaniel. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He catches - cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is in commotion, and - send a deputation to remonstrate with the Singer on his - imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill scenery.--Princely Castle and - Gardens of the Garzoni Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of - Ilex.--Endless bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese - Mansi.--Return to Lucca. - - -Lucca, Sept. 25, 1780. - -You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots -where the arbutus flourishes; from whence I may catch a glimpse of the -distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass, -like Palmerin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of -grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I -have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the visits, dinners, -conversazioni, and glories of the town, and only go thither in an -evening, just time enough for the grand march which precedes -Pacchierotti in Quinto Fabio. Sometimes he accompanies me in my -excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall -ruin their Opera, by leading him such extravagant rambles amongst the -mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds and showers. One -day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; for the next, away -we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so late in the evening, that a -cold and hoarseness were the consequence. - -The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime -ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had -committed. Had the safety of their mighty state depended upon this -imprudent excursion, they could not have vociferated with greater -violence. You know I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very -nearly got into a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations -of the Gonfalonier and all his council upon my head by openly declaring -our intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and -absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities. -These terrible threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a -tour of about thirty miles upon the high lands, and visited a variety -of castles and palaces. - -The Conte Nobili, a noble Lucchese, born in Flanders and educated at -Paris, was our conductor. He possesses great elegance of imagination, -and a degree of sensibility rarely met with. The way did not appear -tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by light clouds, and a -soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered with shrubs and -olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted with so deep a -blue, that I began to think the azure so prevalent in Velvet Breughel's -landscapes is hardly exaggerated. - -After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we -began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; a great many -loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, -which continued, turning and winding through this wilderness, till it -opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted -groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzoni, on the -very side of a precipice. - -Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies -extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of -spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, strikes for the first -time with the effect of enchantment. Two large marble basins, with -jets-d'eau, seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from the -extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with cedar and ilex, and -cut into terraces. - -Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic enclosure, we passed -through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an endless flight of -steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the -trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and -lighted up the green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling the -waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and -sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams -issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal -by their thick branches a pavilion with baths. Above arises a colossal -statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting from the -precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, on which -I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arching over my head, fell, -without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below. - -I could hardly prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess; which -the fragrance of bay and orange, maintained by constant showers, -rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a -dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken, -is suffered to grow as wild as it pleases. This grove is suspended on -the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a boundless wood of -olives, and forms, by its willowy colour, a striking contrast with the -deep verdure of its base. - -After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue, -bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty -feet high. This led us to the palace, which was soon run over. Then, -mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with -myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most -powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a -continued bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit. These -arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I fell upon the -clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the north, unused to -such luxuriance: one of those Goths, Gray so poetically describes, who - - Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose, - And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows. - -I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and -observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the -glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only -every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom -prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day. - -But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon -forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to -the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable -brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies a pastoral -hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide vineyards and -fields of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte Nobili -conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very comfortable -dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied the richest wines of -Constantia to exceed it. - -Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble -walks and trickling rivulets, we took coffee and loitered till sunset. -It was then time to return, as the mists were beginning to rise from the -valleys. The calm and silence of evening threw us into our reveries. We -went pacing along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without -hearing any sound but their steps. - -Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti -coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The - Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed to - Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of the Fanale. - - -Leghorn, October 2nd, 1780. - -This morning we set out for Pisa. No sooner had we passed the highly -cultivated garden-grounds about Lucca than we found ourselves in narrow -roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising -high above our carriage and waving their leaves in the air. Through the -openings which sometimes intervened we discovered a variety of hillocks -clothed with shrubs, ruined towers looking out of the bushes, not one -without a romantic tale attending it. - -This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa -rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in -Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before the -Duomo, which stands insulated in a vast green area, and is perhaps the -most curious edifice my eyes ever viewed. Do not ask of what shape or -architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great is the confusion -of ornaments. The dome gives the mass an oriental appearance, which -helped to bewilder me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but -little thought they existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as -perfectly awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular -edifice distinct from the church and right opposite its principal -entrance, crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of -cupolas. - -Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some -moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of -porphyry and of the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the -rest of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest -mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by Michael -Angelo Buonarotti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We -examined them with due attention, and then walked down the nave and -remarked the striking effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective -through the bronze portals, which you know, I suppose, are covered with -relievos of the finest workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide -open, and we passed between them to the baptistery, where stands an -alabaster font, constructed after the primitive ritual and exquisitely -wrought. - -Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the area in -which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic tabernacle above -the entrance, rising from the level turf and preserving a neat straw -colour, appear as fresh as if built within the present century. Our -guide unlocking the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an -oblong quadrangle, which encloses the sacred earth of Jerusalem, -conveyed hither about the period of the crusades, the days of Pisanese -prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none -are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is entirely composed of -tombs with slabs, smoothly laid and covered with monumental -inscriptions. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble -and glistening in the sun, support the arcade of the cloister, which is -carved with innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly -Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from -Dante's rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries, -attributed to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccaccio -mentions in his Decamerone. - -Beneath, along the base of the columns, are placed, to my no small -surprise, rows of pagan sarcophagi; I could not have supposed the -Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such -consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty other -contradictory ornaments. - -I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty -times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some odd -novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of _giallo antico_, -that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I only mention -to identify the precise point of view), and looking through the -filigreed tracery of the arches observed the domes of the cathedral, -cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the -leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in -Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are airy, the -pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an exotic look in the -whole scene, that without any violent effort of fancy one might imagine -one's self in fairy land. Every object is new, every ornament original; -the mixture of antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the -vagaries of the prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of -returning, to hear visionary music and commune with sprites, for I shall -never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a theatre. - -The heat was so powerful that all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their -wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets, -except five camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden -walls and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We were -obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, before we -reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought after, and when I had -swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began not to think quite so much of -the deserts of Africa, as the heat and the camels had induced me to do a -moment ago. - -Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Leghorn through a wild tract of -forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in some -places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the desire of -walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling -through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and -chesnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the -prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs. - -Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was -sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses as in the month of May. I -felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and was -greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in the fullest -and most luxuriant bloom. The softness of the air, the sound of the -distant surges, the evening gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted -the tumult of my spirits, and I experienced the calm of my infant hours. -I lay down in the open turf-walks between the shrubberies, and during a -few moments had forgotten every care; but when I began to enquire into -my happiness, I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I love -most, in situations they would have warmly admired, and without them -these pleasant lawns and woodlands looked pleasant in vain. - -We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanale began to -lift itself above the horizon--the very tower you have so often -mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships out -at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception in our -northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales from -the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the port and sat -on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that broke amongst them. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - The Mole at Leghorn.--Coast scattered over with - Watch-towers.--Branches of rare Coral unexpectedly acquired. - - -October 3rd, 1780. - -I went, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as soon as the sun -began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no stranger to; -therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble of saying anything -about it, except that the port which it embraces is no longer crowded. -Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only three, and those consist -chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look as poor and tattered as their -masters. Not much attention did I bestow upon such objects, but, taking -my seat at the extremity of the quay, surveyed the smooth plains of -ocean, the coast scattered over with watchtowers, and the rocky isle of -Gorgona, emerging from the morning mists, which still lingered upon the -horizon. - -Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train of -ideas before my imagination, which pleased your own upon beholding it, -an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, -stepped out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, presented -himself before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed dripping a few -moments before he pronounced a syllable, and when he began his -discourse, I was in doubt whether I should not have moved off in a -hurry, there was something so wan and singular in his countenance. -Except this being, no other was visible for a quarter of a mile at -least. I knew not what strange adventure I might be upon the point of -commencing, or what message I was to expect from the submarine -divinities. However, after all my conjectures, the figure turned out to -be no other than an old fisherman, who having picked up a few branches -of the rarest species of coral, offered them to sale. I eagerly made the -purchase, and thought myself a favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me -to acquire, with such facility, some of his most beautiful ornaments. - -My bargain thus expeditiously concluded, I ran along the quay with my -basket of coral, and, taking boat, was rowed back to the gate of the -port. The carriage waited there; I shut myself up in the grateful shade -of green blinds, and was driven away at a rate that favoured my -impatience. We bowled smoothly over the lawns described in my last -letter, amongst myrtles in flower, that would have done honour to the -island of Juan Fernandez. - -Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the Campo -Santo, but hurried on to Lucca, and threw the whole idle town into a -stare by my speedy return. - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures by - Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt shown by the Austrians to - the memory of the House of Medici.--Evening visit to the Garden of - Boboli.--The Opera.--Miserable singing.--A Neapolitan Duchess. - - -Florence, October 5th, 1780. - -It was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. We had all -the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important -republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, the -atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which we -were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after us. - -Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and shaking -till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then proceeded so -slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late in the evening, and -took possession of an apartment over the Arno, which being swollen with -rains roared like a mountain torrent. Throwing open my windows, I viewed -its agitated course by the light of the moon, half concealed in stormy -clouds, which hung above the fortress of the Belvedere. I sat -contemplating the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights of -Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst which a -convent is situated, till the moon sank into the darkest quarter of the -sky, and a bell began to toll. Its mournful sound filled me with gloomy -recollections. I closed the casements, and read till midnight some -dismal memoir of conspiracies and assassinations, Guelphs and -Ghibelines, the black story of ancient Florence. - - -October 6th. - -Every cloud was dispersed when I arose, and the purity and transparence -of the ther added new charms to the picturesque eminences around. I -felt quite revived by this exhilarating prospect, and walked in the -splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath the famous gallery, then -to an antient castle, raised in the days of the Republic, which fronts -the grand piazza. Colossal statues and trophies badly carved in the -true spirit of the antique, are placed before it. On one side a -fountain, clung round with antick figures of bronze, by John of Bologna. -On the other, three lofty pointed arches, and under one of them the -Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini. - -Having examined some groups of sculptures by Baccio Bandinelli and other -mighty artists, I entered the court of the castle, dark and deep, as if -hewn out of a rock, surrounded by a vaulted arcade covered with -arabesque ornaments and supported by pillars almost as uncouthly -designed as those of Persepolis. In the midst appears a marble fount -with an image of bronze, that looks quite strange and cabalistic. I -leaned against it to look up to the summits of the walls, which rise to -a vast height, from whence springs a slender tower. Above, in the -apartments of the castle, are still preserved numbers of curious -cabinets, tables of inlaid gems, and a thousand rarities, collected by -the house of Medici, and not yet entirely frittered away and disposed of -by public sale. - -It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of contempt -which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those illustrious patrons of -the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate, they affect to despise as a -race of merchants whose example it would be abasing their dignity to -follow. - -I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness of -the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. That duty -over, I dined in peace and solitude, and repaired, as evening drew on, -to the thickets of Boboli. - -What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! A -purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested with -saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that clothed -their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended the terraces of -the garden. - -After traversing many long dusky alleys, I reached the opening on the -brow of the hill, and seating myself under the statue of Ceres, took a -sketch of the huge mountainous cupola of the Duomo, the adjoining lovely -tower and one more massive in its neighbourhood, built not improbably in -the style of ancient Etruria. Beyond this historic group of buildings a -plain stretches itself far and wide, most richly studded with villas -and gardens, and groves of pine and olive, quite to the feet of the -mountains. - -Having marked the sun's going down and all the soothing effects cast by -his declining rays on every object, I went through a plat of vines to a -favourite haunt of mine:--a little garden of the most fragrant roses, -with a spring under a rustic arch of grotto-work fringed with ivy. -Thousands of fish inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering species -which comes from China. This golden nation were leaping after insects as -I stood gazing upon the deep clear water, listening to the drops that -trickle from the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of a green alley, -you discover an oval basin, and in the midst of it an antique statue -full of that graceful languor so peculiarly Grecian. - -Whilst I was musing on the margin of the spring (for I returned to it -after casting a look upon the sculpture), the moon rose above the tufted -foliage of the terraces, which I descended by several flights of steps, -with marble balustrades crowned by vases of aloes. - -It was now seven o'clock, and all the world were going to my Lord T----'s, who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, with stuffed -birds, alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; but to say -truth, neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal of -slopping and sipping of tea going forward, and many dawdlers assembled. - -As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, and -conduct you to the Opera, which is really a striking spectacle. The -first soprano put my patience to severe proof, during the few minutes I -attended. You never beheld such a porpoise. If these animals were to -sing, I should conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how -often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of Quinto -Fabio. Everybody seemed as well contented as if there were no such thing -as good singing in the world, except a Neapolitan duchess who delighted -me by her vivacity. We took our fill of maledictions, and went home -equally pleased with each other for having mutually execrated both -singers and audience. - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend one - of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from its brow.--Chapel - designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of a Princess.--The - christening.--Another evening visit in the woods of Boboli. - - -October 22nd, 1780. - -They say the air is worse this year at Rome than ever, and that it would -be madness to go thither during its malign influence. This was very bad -news indeed to one heartily tired of Florence, at least of its society. -Merciful powers! what a set harbour within its walls! * * * You may -imagine I do not take vehement delight in this company, though very -ingenious, praiseworthy, &c. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every -morning; and there grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, twisting -round a pine, upon whose branches I sit for hours. - -In the afternoon I am irresistibly attracted to the thickets of Boboli. -The other evening, however, I varied my walks, and ascended one of those -pleasant hills celebrated by Dante, which rise in the vicinity of the -city, and command a variegated scene of towers, villas, cottages, and -gardens. On the right, as you stand upon the brow, appears Fiesole with -its turrets and white houses, covering a rocky mount to the left, the -Val d'Arno lost in the haze of the horizon. A Franciscan convent stands -on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in antient cypresses, which -hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much of so gay a view. The -paved ascent leading up to their abode receives also a shade from the -cypresses which border it. Beneath this venerable avenue, crosses with -inscriptions are placed at certain distances, to mark the various -moments of Christ's passion; as when fainting under his burden he halted -to repose himself, or when he met his afflicted mother. - -Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed by M. A. -Buonarotti; further on, an antient church, encrusted with white marble, -porphyry, and verd antique. The interior presents a crowded assemblage -of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements and inlaid work without end. -The high altar is placed in a semicircular recess, which, like the apsis -of the church at Torcello, glitters with barbaric paintings on a gold -ground, and receives a fervid glow of light from five windows, filled up -with transparent marble clouded like tortoiseshell. A smooth polished -staircase leads to this mysterious place: another brought me to a -subterraneous chapel, supported by confused groups of variegated -pillars, just visible by the glimmer of lamps. - -Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which terminate -in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect preservation, but -totally deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill up the quadrangle, -whose walls are hung with superstitious pictures most singularly -fancied. The Jesuits were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem -to have had great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness -delighted me. - -Next day I was engaged by a very opposite scene, though much against my -will. Her Royal Highness the Grand Duchess having produced a princess in -the night, everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was -carried, along with the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and -ladies, to see the christening. After the Grand Duke had talked -politics for some time, the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown -open. Trumpets flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began -the ceremony at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk -pavilion, with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, though it was -noon-day, shone in every corner of the apartments. Two rows of pages, -gorgeously accoutred, and holding enormous torches, stood on each side -his Royal Highness, and made him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to -the sound of an indifferent band of music, though led by Nardini. The -poor old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint-like, led the Te -Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest followed him with thoughtless -expedition. - -The ceremony being despatched, (for his Royal Highness was in a mighty -fidget to shrink back into his beloved obscurity,) the crowd dispersed, -and I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord T----'s. - -Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself once more into the woods of -Boboli, and remained till it was night in their recesses. Really this -garden is enough to bewilder an enthusiastic spirit; there is something -so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of cypresses. When I -had mused for many an interesting hour amongst them, I emerged into the -orangery before the palace, which overlooks the largest district of the -town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads up to it, -certain bright lights glancing about the cupola of the Duomo and the -points of the highest towers. At first I thought them meteors, or those -illusive fires which often dance before the eye of my imagination; but -soon I was convinced of their reality; for in a few minutes the lantern -of the cathedral was lighted up by agents really invisible; whilst a -stream of torches ran along the battlements of the old castle which I -mentioned in a former letter. - -I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, my pleasure was -greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to rejoice -the hearts of his Royal Highness's loyal subjects, and bonfires blazing -in every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every denomination -drove me quickly to the theatre; but that was all glitter and glare. No -taste, no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, and rat's-tail candles. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of Pine.--Vast - Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception at the Convent.--Wild - Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cell.--Conversation with - the holy Fathers.--Legendary Tales.--The consecrated Cleft.--The - Romitorio.--Extensive View of the Val d'Arno.--Return to Florence. - - -October 23rd, 1780. - -Do you recollect our evening rambles last year, in the valley at F----, -under the hill of pines? I remember we often fancied the scene like -Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever an occasion offered, to visit its deep -retirements. I had put off the execution of this pilgrimage from day to -day till the warm weather was gone; and the Florentines declared I -should be frozen if I attempted it. Everybody stared last night at the -Opera when I told them I was going to bury myself in fallen leaves, and -hear no music but their rustlings. - -Mr. ---- was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and -nothingness of Florence; so we finally determined upon our expedition, -and mounting our horses, set out this morning, happily without any -company but the spirit which led us along. We had need of inspiration, -since nothing else, I think, would have tempted us over such dreary, -uninteresting hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary -olive is their principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part of the -country, seems in a withering decrepit state, and may not unaptly be -compared to "an old woman clothed in grey." However, we did not suffer -the prospect to damp our enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for -Valombrosa. - -About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some oats, -and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren waste, -scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than I cared -for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my portion. -Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I reached down a few -purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, -and amused myself very pleasantly with them till the horses had -finished their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. We met with -nothing but rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as -half inclined us to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet amongst -the number of our evils. - -At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind blow -sharply from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of -groves of pine. A paved path leads across them, quite darkened by -boughs, which meeting over our heads cast a gloom and a chilness below -that would have stopped the proceedings of reasonable mortals, and sent -them to bask in the plain; but, being not so easily discomfited, we -threw ourselves boldly into the forest. It presented that boundless -confusion of tall straight stems I am so fond of, and exhaled a fresh -aromatic odour that revived my spirits. - -The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we -galloped on, and entered a vast amphitheatre of lawns and meadows -surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. The steep cliffs and -mountains which guard this retired valley are clothed with beech to -their very summits; and on their slopes, whose smoothness and verdure -equal our English pastures, were dispersed large flocks of sheep. The -herbage, moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never -been known to fade; thus, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by -the heats of summer, these upland meadows retain the freshness of -spring. I regretted not having visited them sooner, as autumn had -already made great havock amongst the foliage. Showers of leaves blew -full in our faces as we rode towards the convent, placed at an extremity -of the vale and sheltered by firs and chesnuts towering one above -another. - -Whilst we were alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and -received us into the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, -and tables spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six -overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed by the sleekness and rosy hue -of their countenances not totally to have despised this mortal -existence. - -My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order about -me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in his -pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; yet to -avoid this was scarcely within the circle of possibility. All dinner, -therefore, we endured an infinity of nonsensical questions; but as soon -as that was over, I lost no time in repairing to the lawns and forests. -The fathers made a shift to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly -as they were able, but were soon distanced. - -Now I found myself at liberty, and pursued a narrow path overhung by -rock, with bushy chesnuts starting from the crevices. This led me into -wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with moss: several -were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus had his -cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, listening to -the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed. The dry leaves chased -each other down the steeps on the edge of the torrents with hollow -rustlings, whilst the solemn wave of the forests above most perfectly -answered the idea I had formed of Valombrosa, - - ----where the Etrurian shades - High overarch'd embower. - -The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton to move -across his favourite valley, when the fathers arrived puffing and -blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of. - -"You have missed the way," cried the youngest; "the hermitage, with the -fine picture by Andra del Sarto, which all the English admire, is on -the opposite side of the wood: there! don't you see it on the point of -the cliff?" - -"Yes, yes," said I a little peevishly; "I wonder the devil has not -pushed it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick." - -"Satan," answered the old Pagod very dryly, "is full of malice; but -whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth to flow near the -hermitage is freed from his illusions." - -"Are they so?" replied I with a sanctified accent, "then I pray thee -conduct me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters." - -The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, "This is nothing -more than a heretic's whim." - -The senior set forwards with greater piety, and began some legendary -tales of the kind which my soul loveth. He pointed to a chasm in the -cliff, round which we were winding by a spiral path, where Gualbertus -used to sleep, and, turning himself towards the west, see a long -succession of saints and martyrs sweeping athwart the sky, and gilding -the clouds with far brighter splendours than the setting sun. Here he -rested till his last hour, when the bells of the convent beneath (which -till that moment would have made dogs howl had there been any within its -precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all the country -around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with singular -devotion, when, behold! light dawned, cherubim appeared, and birds -chirped although it was midnight. "Alas! alas! what would I not give to -witness such a spectacle, and read my prayer-book by the effulgence of -opening heaven!" - -However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the consecrated -cleft and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very penitential -couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world below, which lay -this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red and angry through -misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea. - -Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my -quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a snug -little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andra del -Sarto, which I should have examined more minutely had not the wild and -mountainous forest scenery possessed my whole attention. I just stayed -to taste the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran -eagerly down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and -entered a lawn of the smoothest turf grazed by sheep. Beyond this -opening rises a second, hemmed in with thickets; and still higher, a -third, whence a forest of young pines spires up into a lofty theatre -terminated by peaks, half concealed by a thick mantle of beech tinged -with ruddy brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking upward -to the sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my orisons to the -genius of the place, and prayed that I might once more return into its -bosom, and be permitted to bring you along with me, for surely such -meads, such groves, were formed for our enjoyment! - -This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of the -pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of -precipices, beneath whose base the whole Val d'Arno lies expanded. I -listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw wreaths of smoke rising -from the cottages, and viewed a vast tract of grey barren country, which -evening rendered still more desolate, bounded by the black mountain of -Radicofani. Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and -forest, the groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with -fiery red, for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, -produced this effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was -gloomy, and the rest of the prospect of a melancholy blue. - -Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the -eminences, and heard the sullen toll of a bell. The young boys of the -seminary were moving in a body to their dark enclosure, all dressed in -black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to ask them whether -the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; but a tall -spectre of a priest drove them along like a herd, and presently, the -gates opening, I saw them no more. - -The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the intervals -of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable screech owl to depress -my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to meet the -fathers, who came out to show me to my room, and entertain me with -various gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper appeared. - -Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; and -afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully upon -our viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was determined to -make a full stop at the organ, one of the most harmonious I ever played -upon; but placed in a deep recess, feebly lighted by lamps, not -calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. The monks, who had all -crowded into the loft in expectation of brisk jigs and lively overtures, -soon retired upon hearing a strain ten times more sorrowful than that to -which they were accustomed. I did not lament their departure, but played -on till our horses came to the gate. We mounted, wound back through the -grove of pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the -steeps, and, gaining the plains, galloped in a few hours to Florence. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Cathedral at Sienna.--A vaulted Chamber.--Leave Sienna.--Mountains - round Radicofani.--Hunting Palace of the Grand Dukes.--A grim - fraternity of Cats.--Dreary Apartment. - - -Sienna, October 27th, 1780. - -Here my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I got up much -earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder that our holy -ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, scrape it into tabernacles, -and chisel it into scripture stories. It would have cost them almost as -little trouble as the building in question, which, by many of the -Italian devotees to a purer style of architecture, is esteemed a -masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate absurdity. The front, -encrusted with alabaster, is worked into a million of fretted arches and -puzzling ornaments. There are statues without number, and relievos -without end or meaning. - -The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the roof -blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from it; and -a cornice running above the principal arcade, composed entirely of -bustos representing the whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from the -first Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan they say figured -amongst them, between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the -year 1600, when some authors have asserted she was turned out, at the -instance of Clement the Eighth, to make room for Zacharias the First. - -I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this -singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The pavement -demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent variety of -histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed somewhat in the style of -that hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the walls of our -ancestors. Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, -supported by polished pillars of granite, rising from lions' backs, -which serve as pedestals. In every corner of the place some glittering -chapel or other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi -family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect to design -and execution; but it wants effect, as seeming out of place in this -chaos of caprice and finery. - -From the church I entered a vaulted chamber, erected by the -Piccoliminis, filled with missals most exquisitely illuminated. The -paintings in fresco on the walls are rather barbarous, though executed -after the designs of the mighty Raphael; but then we must remember, he -had but just escaped from Pietro Perugino. - -Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, after -being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that ever pretended to be -made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough mountains round -Radicofani, about seven o'clock on a cold and dismal evening. Up we -toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length the inn upon its -summit. My heart sank when I entered a vast range of apartments, with -high black raftered roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of the -Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having risen, every -door began to shake, and every board substituted for a window to -clatter, as if the severe power who dwells on the topmost peak of -Radicofani, according to its village mythologists, was about to visit -his abode. - -My only spell to keep him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, -whose charitable gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker -flow. Yet, for some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to the right, -now to the left, up at the dark beams, and down the long passages, where -the pavement, broken up in several places, and earth newly strewn about, -seemed to indicate that something horrid was concealed below. - -A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in these -dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical scene of -a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing to explore them, -I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth which glowed with -embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly venturing to go to sleep -lest I should be suddenly roused from it by I know not what terrible -initiation into the mysteries of the place. - -Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just -mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted upon -their moving off faster than they had entered, and was surprised, when -midnight came, to hear nothing more than their doleful mewings echoed by -the hollow walls and arches. - - - - -LETTER XIX. - - Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal - territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of the Lake of - Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte Fiascone.--Inhabited - Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations of Rome. - - -Radicofani, October 28th, 1780. - -I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at -Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not -an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have -more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I -was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind, -and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and cornfields at -a distance. - -Near Aquapendente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs mantled with -chesnut copses and tufted ilex, the country grew varied and picturesque. -St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of -Bolsena, whose woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed -some of them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and -grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles -crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as Polemberg and -Bamboche introduce in their paintings. - -Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint -rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon -the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte -Fiascone. It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems -full of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with -fires. We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a -subterraneous people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we -drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; -and when we entered the town, all was total darkness. - -To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and -tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial -city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs -of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from -Monte Cavallo. - - - - -LETTER XX. - - Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the spacious - plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient - splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherds' - huts.--Wretched policy of the Papal Government.--Distant view of - Rome.--Sensations on entering the City.--The Pope returning from - Vespers.--St Peter's Colonnade.--Interior of the - Church.--Reveries.--A visionary scheme.--The Pantheon. - - -Rome, October 29th, 1780. - -We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; its waters -of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests catching the -rays of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the cupola of St. -Peter's upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. Nothing but a sea -of vapours was visible. - -At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show -themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of -empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, and -on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the view. It -was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, -and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander -theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for -encampments: levels for martial games, and room for that variety of -roads and causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. How many -triumphant legions have trodden these pavements! how many captive kings! -What throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface! -savage animals dragged from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors -of Indian princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore -the favour of the senate! - -During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such -illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is passed -away: silence and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over -with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only -objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed a few -black ill-favoured sheep straggling by the way's side, near a ruined -sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would have sacrificed to the -Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were the only -sounds which broke the general stillness, and observed the shepherds' -huts on its banks, propped up with broken pedestals and marble friezes. -I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and -began writing upon the sand and murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps the -dead listened to me from their narrow cells. The living I can answer -for: they were far enough removed. - -You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a -scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted -how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no blue -firmament to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants to -irritate my nerves and lend at least a momentary animation. Heath and a -greyish kind of moss are the sole vegetation which covers this endless -wilderness. Every slope is strewed with the relics of a happier period; -trunks of trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, -skulls and coins, are frequently dug up together. - -I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you any -novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly the environs of Rome -were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives to make -its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not just as -wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of celebrating? All is -doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as well -attempt proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay -dispersed around me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate -than another. Very likely the poor cottager, under whose roof I reposed, -is happier than the luxurious Roman upon the remains of whose palace, -perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet that Roman flourished in the purple -days of the empire, when all was wealth and splendour, triumph and -exultation. - -I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and -meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and -drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the days of -the Csars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. "When -you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome," said one of -the postilions: up we dragged; no city appeared. "From the next," cried -out a second; and so on from height to height did they amuse my -expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, -till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with green pastures on -their summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here -and there a white house, built in the antique style, with open porticos, -that received a faint gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the -clouds and tinting the meads below. Now domes and towers began to -discover themselves in the valley, and St. Peter's to rise above the -magnificent roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene -extended, till, winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our -view. - -Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending -the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an -avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, which leads to -the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the domes, the obelisk, the -long perspective of streets and palaces opening beyond, all glowing with -the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, -my favourite hour, surrounded by such objects. You can fancy me -ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which supports -Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St. Peter's in -performance of my vow. - -I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers. Trumpets -flourishing, and a troop of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. Angelo. -Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved on till the -full sweep of St. Peter's colonnade opened upon me. The edifice appears -to have been raised within the year, such is its freshness and -preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the beautiful -symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent, though irregular -courts of the Vatican towering over the colonnade, till, the sun sinking -behind the dome, I ran up the steps and entered the grand portal, which -was on the very point of being closed. - -I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred twilight -concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not distinguish any -particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the whole. No damp air or -foetid exhalation offended me. The perfume of incense was not yet -entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. I heard a door close with -the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished some faint -whisperings, but am ignorant whence they came. Several hundred lamps -twinkled round the high altar, quite lost in the immensity of the pile. -No other light disturbed my reveries but the dying glow still visible -through the western windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself -alone in this vast temple at so late an hour. Do you think I quitted it -without some revelation? - -It was almost eight o'clock before I issued forth, and, pausing a few -minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: then -traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa Medici, -under which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which my zeal and -exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited. - -October 30th. - -Immediately after breakfast I repaired again to St. Peter's, which even -exceeded the height of my expectations. I could hardly quit it. I wish -his Holiness would allow me to erect a little tabernacle within this -glorious temple. I should desire no other prospect during the winter; no -other sky than the vast arches glowing with golden ornaments, so lofty -as to lose all glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be -perfectly contented, unless I could obtain another tabernacle for you. -Thus established, we would take our evening walks on the field of -marble; for is not the pavement vast enough for the extravagance of the -appellation? Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend -the cupola, and look down on our little encampment below. At night I -should wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, -and so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light. Music should not -be wanting: at one time to breathe in the subterraneous chapels, at -another to echo through the dome. - -The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, no -cardinals: God forbid! We would have all the space to ourselves, and to -beings of our own visionary persuasion. - -I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with contriving -plans for its embellishment, as scarcely to have spirits left for the -Pantheon, which I visited late in the evening, and entered with a -reverence approaching to superstition. The whiteness of the dome -offended me, for, alas! this venerable temple has been whitewashed. I -slunk into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into -antiquity; then opened them again, tried to persuade myself the Pagan -gods were in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed -at coming to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with his -cross, and St. Agnes with her lamb, &c. Then I paced disconsolately into -the portico, which shows the name of Agrippa on its pediment. Fixed for -a few minutes against a Corinthian column, I lamented that no pontiff -arrived with victims and aruspices, of whom I might enquire, what, in -the name of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for you -must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think -Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their -representations of this venerable structure. I left the column, walked -to the centre of the temple, and there remained motionless as a statue. -Some architects have celebrated the effect of light from the opening -above, and pretended it to be distributed in such a manner as to give -those, who walk beneath, the appearance of mystic beings streaming with -radiance. If that were the case! I appeared, to be sure, a luminous -figure, and never stood I more in need of something to enliven me. - -My spirits were not mended upon returning home. I had expected a heap of -Venetian letters, but could not discover one. I had received no -intelligence from England for many a tedious day; and for aught I can -tell to the contrary, you may have been dead these three weeks. I think -I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, which I try lustily to persuade -myself communicate with the lower world; and perhaps I may find some -letter there from you lying upon a broken sarcophagus, dated from the -realms of Night, and giving an account of your descent into her bosom. -Yet, I pray continually, notwithstanding my curiosity to learn what -passes in the dark regions beyond the tomb, that you will remain a few -years longer on our planet; for what would become of me should I lose -sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you can, and let us -have the delight of dozing a little more of this poor existence away -together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant dreams. - - - - -LETTER XXI. - - Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of - Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical associations.--The - Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain - Groves.--Rock of Circe.--The Appian Way.--Arrive at Mola di - Gaieta.--Beautiful prospect.--A Deluge.--Enter Naples by night, - during a fearful Storm.--Clear Morning.--View from my - window.--Courtly Mob at the Palace.--The Presence Chamber.--The - King and his Courtiers.--Party at the House of Sir W. H.--Grand - Illumination at the Theatre of St. Carlo.--Marchesi. - - -November 1st, 1780. - -Though you find I am not yet snatched away from the earth, according to -my last night's bodings, I was far too restless and dispirited to -deliver my recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a mighty day of gala at -Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving Rome, and indulging my -roving disposition. After spending my morning at St. Peter's, we set off -about four o'clock, and drove by the Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, -whose monks were all busied in preparing the skeletons of their order, -to figure by torch-light in the evening. St. John's of Lateran -astonished me. I could not help walking several times round the obelisk, -and admiring the noble space in which the palace is erected, and the -extensive scene of towers and aqueducts discovered from the platform in -front. - -We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains which -surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of walls and -arches, seldom interrupted, stretch across them. Sometimes, indeed, a -withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of every blast that sweeps -the champagne, breaks their uniformity. Between the aqueducts to the -left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of ploughed lands, dark and -desolate, are visible, the corn not being yet sprung up. On the right, -several groups of ruined fanes and sepulchres diversify the levels, with -here and there a garden or woody enclosure. Such objects are scattered -over the landscape, which towards the horizon bulges into gentle -ascents, and, rising by degrees, swells at length into a chain of -mountains, which received the pale gleams of the sun setting in watery -clouds. - -By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, -sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate them, -for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and began -breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and recollecting -a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we advanced, not -without fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall asleep when -arrived there. - -November 2nd. - -I arose at day-break, and, forgetting fevers and mortalities, ran into a -level meadow without the town, whilst the horses were putting to the -carriage. Why should I calumniate the pearly transparent air? it seemed -at least purer than any I had before inhaled. Being perfectly alone, and -not discovering any trace of the neighbouring city, I fancied myself -existing in the ancient days of Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his -woods before the evening. But, instead of those shrill clamours which -used to echo through the thickets when Pan joined with mortals in the -chase, I heard the rumbling of our carriage, and the cursing of -postilions. Mounting a horse I flew before them, and seemed to catch -inspiration from the breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of -precipices, in whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed -their life; then to the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliff, so -famous for Circe's incantations, and the whole line of coasts, which was -once covered with her forests. - -Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sun-beams began to shoot -athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their -shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dew-drops. The sea brightened, and -the Circean promontory soon glowed with purple. All day we kept winding -through this enchanted country. Towards evening Terracina appeared -before us, in a bold romantic scite; house above house, and turret -looking over turret, on the steeps of a mountain, enclosed with -mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined terraces of a palace; one of -those, perhaps, which the luxurious Romans inhabited during the summer, -when so free and lofty an exposition (the sea below, with its gales and -murmurs) must have been delightful. Groves of orange and citron hang on -the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, whose bright red flowers, -illuminated by the sun, had a magic splendour. A palm-tree, growing on -the highest crag, adds not a little to its singular appearance. Being -the largest I had yet seen, and clustered with fruit, I climbed up the -rocks to take a sketch of it; and looking down upon the beach and glassy -plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial: - - O nemus! O fontes! solidumque madentis aren - Littus, et quoreis splendidus Anxur aquis! - -Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the rock of Circe, -which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the continent by a -very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an island. The roar of the -waves lashing the base of the precipices, might still be thought the -howl of savage monsters; but where are those woods which shaded the dome -of the goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, and but a few, -are the sole remains of this once impenetrable vegetation; yet even -these I longed to visit, such was my predilection for the spot. - -Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, by -a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian Way, we drove under an -enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch tower, and -cut into arsenals and magazines. Day closed just as we got beyond it, -and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw fires afar off in -the bay; some twinkling on the coast, others upon the waves, and heard -the murmur of voices; for the night was still and solemn, like that of -Cajetas's funeral. I looked anxiously on a sea, where the heroes of the -Odyssey and neid had sailed to fulfil their mystic destinies. - -Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Gaeta. The boats were just coming -in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought such fish -as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged neas and Ulysses. - - -November 3rd. - -The morning was soft, but hazy. I walked in a grove of orange trees, -white with blossoms, and at the same time glowing with fruit. The spot -sloped pleasantly toward the sea, and here I loitered till the horses -were ready, then set off on the Appian, between hedges of myrtle and -aloes. We observed a variety of towns, with battlemented walls and -ancient turrets, crowning the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by -wilds, and rude uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds -its peaceful course through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with -the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the rocks I have just -mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil's panegyric -of Italy into my mind: - - Tot congesta manu prruptis oppida saxis - Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros. - -As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds -covered the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain as -floated the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius disappeared -just after we had discovered it. At four o'clock darkness universally -prevailed, except when a livid glare of lightning presented momentary -glimpses of the bay and mountains. We lighted torches, and forded -several torrents almost at the hazard of our lives. The plains of Aversa -were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not half so much -scared as their masters, who ran about raving and ranting like Indians -during the eclipse of the moon. I knew Vesuvius had often put their -courage to proof, but little thought of an inundation occasioning such -commotions. - -For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead of -entering Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores by -moonlight--instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged with -people and animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror through -dark streets totally deserted, every creature being shut up in their -houses, and we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing torrents, and the -fall of fragments beaten down by their violence. Our inn, like every -other habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while -before we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. All night the -waves roared round the rocky foundations of a fortress beneath my -windows, and the lightning played clear in my eyes. - - -November 4th. - -Peace was restored to nature in the morning, but every mouth was full of -the dreadful accidents which had happened in the night. The sky was -cloudless when I awoke, and such was the transparence of the atmosphere -that I could clearly discern the rocks, and even some white buildings on -the island of Caprea, though at the distance of thirty miles. A large -window fronts my bed, and its casements being thrown open, gives me a -vast prospect of ocean uninterrupted, except by the peaks of Caprea and -the Cape of Sorento. I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level -waters, and listening to the confused voices of the fishermen, passing -and repassing in light skiffs, which came and disappeared in an instant. - -Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till -then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams,) I leaned -over its rails and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue ther, -with all that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered about its -base; then looked down into the street, deep below, thronged with people -in holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. The -shrubby, variegated shore of Posilipo drew my attention to the opposite -side of the bay. It was on those very rocks, under those tall pines, -Sannazaro was wont to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, composing -his marine eclogues. It is there he still sleeps; and I wished to have -gone immediately and strewed coral over his tomb, but I was obliged to -check my impatience and hurry to the palace in form and gala. - -A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with -lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but bows and salutations -were going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, -and which a multitude of prelates and friars were ascending with awkward -pomposity. I jostled along to the presence chamber, where his Majesty -was dining alone in a circular enclosure of fine clothes and smirking -faces. The moment he had finished, twenty long necks were poked forth, -and it was a glorious struggle amongst some of the most decorated who -first should kiss his hand, the great business of the day. Everybody -pressed forward to the best of their abilities. His Majesty seemed to -eye nothing but the end of his nose, which is doubtless a capital -object. - -Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ in -opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be -happy, in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, and a -pigeon to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is better -contented than Solomon in all his glory, and will never discover, like -that sapient sovereign, that all is vanity and vexation of spirit. - -His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and differ -little in the character of their physiognomies from the most savage -nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, had it not -been for their dresses and European finery. - -You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, to -return to Sir W. H.'s, where an interesting group of lovely women, -literati, and artists, were assembled--Gagliani and Cyrillo, Aprile, -Milico, and Deamicis--the determined Santo Marco, and the more -nymph-like modest-looking, though not less dangerous, Belmonte. Gagliani -happened to be in full story, and vied with his countryman Polichinello, -not only in gesticulation and loquacity, but in the excessive -licentiousness of his narrations. He was proceeding beyond all bounds of -decency and decorum, at least according to English notions, when Lady -H.[8] sat down to the pianoforte. Her plaintive modulations breathed a -far different language. No performer that ever I heard produced such -soothing effects; they seemed the emanations of a pure, uncontaminated -mind, at peace with itself and benevolently desirous of diffusing that -happy tranquillity around it; these were modes a Grecian legislature -would have encouraged to further the triumph over vice of the most -amiable virtue. - -The evening was passing swiftly away, and I had almost forgotten there -was a grand illumination at the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a -number of dark streets, we suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose -seven rows of boxes one above the other blazed with tapers. I never -beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so pompous a decoration as covered -the stage. Marchesi was singing in the midst of all these splendours -some of the poorest music imaginable, with the clearest and most -triumphant voice, perhaps, in the universe. - -It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or -discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its size -and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of swarthy ill-favoured -beings, in gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The -court being present, a tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment -his Majesty withdrew (which great event took place at the beginning of -the second act) every tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and -hubbub filled up the rest of the entertainment. - - - - -LETTER XXII. - - View of the coast of Posilipo.--Virgil's tomb.--Superstition of the - Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.--Arial situation.--A grand - scene. - - -November 6th, 1780. - -Till to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea covered with mists, -and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I have not yet been able to -mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in order to take a general view -of the town. - -At length a bright gleam of sunshine summoned me to the broad terrace of -Chiaja, which commands the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew -towards it, and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) soon -reached the entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst the -crags that lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and vines grow -luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and its fresh yellow colours, -variegated with ivy, have a beautiful effect. To the right, a grove of -pines spring from the highest pinnacles: on the left, bay and chesnut -conceal the tomb of Virgil placed on the summit of a cliff which impends -over the opening of the grotto, and is fringed with vegetation. Beneath -are several wide apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to -caverns sixty or seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who -were employed in quarrying, made a strange but not absolutely -unharmonious din with their tools and their voices. - -Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone -immediately beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking -down the long and solemn perspective terminated by a speck of gray -uncertain light, venerated a work which some old chroniclers have -imagined as ancient as the Trojan war. It was here the mysterious race -of the Cimmerians performed their infernal rites, and it was this -excavation perhaps which led to their abode. - -The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical an -origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have been -formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Addison very justly -observes, is better known at Naples in his magical character than as -the author of the neid. This strange infatuation most probably arose -from the vicinity of the tomb in which his ashes are supposed to have -been deposited; and which, according to popular tradition, was guarded -by those very spirits who assisted in constructing the cave. But -whatever may have given rise to these ideas, certain it is they were not -confined to the lower ranks alone. King Robert,[9] a wise though far -from poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great -solemnity to the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the grotto, very -gravely asked him, whether he did not adopt the general belief, and -conclude this stupendous passage derived its origin from Virgil's -powerful incantations? The answer, I think, may easily be conjectured. - -When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and -trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I -retreated without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path -which led me, after some windings and turnings, along the brink of the -precipice, across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks which -shelters Virgil's tomb, most venerably mossed over and more than half -concealed by bushes and vegetation. The clown who conducted me remained -aloof at awful distance, whilst I sat commercing with the manes of my -beloved poet, or straggled about the shrubbery which hangs directly -above the mouth of the grot. - -Advancing to the edge of the rock, I saw crowds of people and carriages, -diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the mountain and -disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the windings of its road. -Clambering high above the cavern, I hazarded my neck on the top of one -of the pines, and looked contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that -were so busily moving to and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have -wished, but the sea-breezes fanned me in my arial situation, which -commanded the grand sweep of the bay, varied by convents, palaces, and -gardens mixed with huge masses of rock and crowned by the stately -buildings of the Carthusians and fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering -blue sea to this perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom and -Vesuvius breathing forth a white column of smoke into the ther, and you -will then have a scene upon which I gazed with delight, for more than -an hour, almost forgetting that I was perched upon the head of a pine -with nothing but a frail branch to uphold me. However, I descended -alive, as Virgil's genii, I am resolved to believe, were my protectors. - - - - -LETTER XXIII. - - A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross the - bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous - reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The Dead Lake.--Wild - scene.--Beautiful meadow. Uncouth rocks.--An unfathomable - gulph.--Sadness induced by the wild appearance of the - place.--Conversation with a recluse.--Her fearful - narration.--Melancholy evening. - - -November 8th, 1780. - -This morning I awoke in the glow of sunshine--the air blew fresh and -fragrant--never did I feel more elastic and enlivened. A brisker flow of -spirits than I had for many a day experienced, animated me with a desire -of rambling about the shore of Baii, and creeping into caverns and -subterraneous chambers. Off I set along the Chiaja, and up strange paths -which impend over the grotto of Posilipo, amongst the thickets mentioned -a letter or two ago; for in my present buoyant humour I disdained -ordinary roads, and would take paths and ways of my own. A society of -kids did not understand what I meant by intruding upon their precipices; -and scrambling away, scattered sand and fragments upon the good people -that were trudging along the pavement below. - -I went on from pine to pine and thicket to thicket, upon the brink of -rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir William had -recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that had passed in the -neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over which we were -travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat down by us on -little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, scarcely knowing which -way caprice had led me. My mind was full of the tales of the place, and -glowed with a vehement desire of exploring the world beyond the grot. I -longed to ascend the promontory of Misenus, and follow the same dusky -route down which the Sibyl conducted neas. - -With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses -opened to views of the Baian sea with the little isles of Niscita and -Lazaretto, lifting themselves out of the waters. Procita and Ischia -appeared at a distance invested with that purple bloom so inexpressibly -beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I hailed the -prospect, and blessed the transparent air that gave me life and vigour -to run down the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain to -Pozzuoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue ocean, by the -remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, adorned the bay in Roman -ages, crowned by vast lengths of slender pillars; pavilions at their -extremities and taper cypresses spiring above their balustrades: this -character of villa occurs very frequently in the paintings of -Herculaneum. - -We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast near some -fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced -into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with -shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant -foliage, chesnut, bay and ilex, that shelter the ruins of sepulchral -chambers. No parties of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I -had all the land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into -its recesses, with the importance of a discoverer. What a variety of -narrow paths, between banks and shades, did I wildly follow! my savage -laughing loud at my odd gestures and useless activity. He wondered I did -not scrape the ground for medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, -like other inquisitive young travellers that had gone before me. - -After ascending some time, I followed him into the wondrous[10] -reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, when anchored in -the neighbouring bay. A noise of trickling waters prevailed throughout -this grand labyrinth of solid vaults and arches, that had almost lulled -me to sleep as I rested myself on the celandine which carpets the floor; -but curiosity urging me forward, I gained the upper air; walked amongst -woods a few minutes, and then into grots and dismal excavations (prisons -they call them) which began to weary me. - -After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at last -reached an eminence that commanded the Mare Morto, and Elysian fields -trembling with reeds and poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem of -eternal tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants seemed -fixed on its margin, their shadows reflected on the water. Turning from -the lake I espied a rock at about a league distant, whose summit was -clad with verdure, and finding this to be the promontory of Misenus, I -immediately set my face to that quarter. - -We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured -generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, -however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by -neat hedges of cane, and a variety of herbs and pulses and Indian corn -seemed to flourish in the inclosures. Insensibly we began to leave the -cultivated lands behind us, and to lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, -to all appearance, no mortal had ever trodden. Here were no paths, no -inclosures; a primeval rudeness characterized the whole scene. - -After forcing our way about a mile, through glades of shrubs and briars, -we entered a lawn-like opening at the base of the cliff which takes its -name from Misenus. The poets of the Augustan age would have celebrated -such a meadow with the warmest raptures, and peopled its green expanse -with all the sylvan demi-gods of their beautiful mythology. Here were -springs issuing from rocks of pumice, and grassy hillocks partially -concealed by thickets of bay. - - Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato - Candida purpureis mista papaveribus. - -But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead of -reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts dissolved -in attaining its summit. The sun darted upon my head, I wished to avoid -its immediate influence; no tree was near; the pleasant valley lay below -at a considerable depth, and it was a long way to descend to it. Looking -round and round, I spied something like a hut, under a crag on the edge -of a dark fissure. Might I avail myself of its covert? My conductor -answered in the affirmative, and added that it was inhabited by a good -old woman, who never refused a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to -refresh a weary traveller. - -Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of -stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help deviating a -few steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth rocks which rose -frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their appearance was truly -formidable, bristled over with sharp-spired dwarf aloes, such as -Lucifer himself might be supposed to have sown. Indeed I knew not -whether I was not approaching some gate that leads to his abode, as I -drew near a gulph (the fissure lately mentioned) and heard the deep -hollow murmurs of the gusts which were imprisoned below. The savage, my -guide, shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old woman of my coming. -I felt strangely, and stared around me, and but half liked my situation. - -In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. "You are -welcome," said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect than I had -heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, and she seemed of -a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys. My savage -treated her with peculiar deference. She had just given him some bread, -with which he retired to a respectful distance bowing to the earth. I -caught the mode, and was very obsequious, thinking myself on the point -of experiencing a witch's influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight -into the volume of futurity. She smiled at my agitation and kept -beckoning me into the cottage. - -"Now," thought I to myself, "I am upon the verge of an adventure." I saw -nothing, however, but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen -bowls, and a wooden crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: this my -hostess perceived, and immediately kindling a fire in an inner part of -the hovel, brought out some warm water to refresh my feet, and set some -milk and chesnuts before me. This patriarchal attention was by no means -indifferent after my tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to the door -which fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the sea, of a deep -cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also was darkening apace with -storms. Sadness came over me like a cloud, and I looked up to the old -woman for consolation. - -"And you too are sorrowful, young stranger," said she, "that come from -the gay world! how must I feel, who pass year after year in these lonely -mountains?" I answered that the weather affected me, and my spirits were -exhausted by the walk. - -All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy -earnestness that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine myself -in some fatal habitation, - - Where more is meant than meets the ear. - -"Your features," said she, "are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate -young person, who, in this retirement...." The tears began to fall as -she pronounced these words; my curiosity was fired. "Tell me," continued -I, "what you mean; who was this youth for whom you are so interested? -and why did he seclude himself in this wild region? Your kindness to him -might no doubt have alleviated, in some measure, the horrors of the -place; but may God defend me from passing the night near such a gulph! I -would not trust myself in a despairing moment." - -"It is," said she, "a place of horrors. I tremble to relate what has -happened on this very spot; but your manner interests me, and though I -am little given to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips concerning -the secrets of yonder fatal chasm. - -"I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better days. In -my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few years they withered -away; no matter by what accident. I am not going to talk much of -myself. Have patience a few moments! A series of unfortunate events -reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this desert, where, from -rearing goats and making their milk into cheese, by a different method -than is common in the Neapolitan state, I have, for about thirty years, -prolonged a sorrowful existence. My silent grief and constant retirement -had made me appear to some a saint, and to others a sorceress. The -slight knowledge I have of plants has been exaggerated, and, some years -back, the hours I gave up to prayer, and the recollection of former -friends, lost to me for ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and -the ignorant. But soon I sank into obscurity: my little recipes were -disregarded, and you are the first stranger who, for these twelve months -past, has visited my abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever -remained inviolate! - -"It is now three-and-twenty years," and she looked upon some characters -cut on the planks of the cottage, "since I was sitting by moonlight, -under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes fixed on the ocean, my -mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard a step, and -starting up, a figure stood before me. It was a young man, in a rich -habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the utmost terror. I -knew not what to think of this sudden apparition. 'Mother,' said he with -faltering accents, 'let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not up -to those who thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take all, all!' - -"Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; the youth -stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the rocks; the -wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. I took courage, -and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. 'Oh! thank you, thank -you!' answered he, and pressed my hand. He shared my scanty provision. - -"Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day) sleep closed my -eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was set, but I heard my -unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed him not. Morning dawned, -and he was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled out of his closed -eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan cheeks. I had been too -wretched myself not to respect the sorrows of another: neglecting -therefore my accustomed occupations, I drove away the flies that buzzed -around his temples. His breast heaved high with sighs, and he cried -loudly in his sleep for mercy. - -"The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like one that -had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face with his -hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. 'Oh, mother!' he -exclaimed, 'I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the cause of -innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!' My blood curdled to -hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and behold such agonising -sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked the sting of conscience -urging him to disclose what I am going to relate. - -"It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and luxuries of -Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with a thousand -lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to improve. -Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object of his desires, -he passed his first years in roving from one extravagance to another, -but as yet there was no crime in his caprices. - -"At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make their idol -the slave of an unbridled passion. He had a friend, who from his birth -had been devoted to his interest, and placed all his confidence in him. -This friend loved to distraction a young creature, the most graceful of -her sex (as I can witness), and she returned his affection. In the -exultation of his heart he showed her to the wretch whose tale I am -about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She too caught fire at his -glances. They languished--they consumed away--they conversed, and his -persuasive language finished what his guilty glances had begun. - -"Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal a thought, -however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth in the tenderest -manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him so loathsome, that -unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, he menaced the -life of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. Coolness and -moderation were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he found himself -treated with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to the heart, he -wandered about for some time like one entranced. Meanwhile the nuptials -were preparing, and the lovely girl he had perverted found ways to let -him know she was about to be torn from his embraces. - -"He raved like a demoniac, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a -malignant wretch who sold the most inveterate poisons. These he infused -into a cup of pure iced water and presented to his friend, and to his -own too fond confiding father, who soon after they had drunk the fatal -potion began evidently to pine away. He marked the progress of their -dissolution with a horrid firmness, he let the moment pass beyond which -all antidotes were vain. His friend expired; and the young criminal, -though he beheld the dews of death hang on his parent's forehead, yet -stretched not forth his hand. In a short space the miserable father -breathed his last, whilst his son was sitting aloof in the same chamber. - -"The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, the pangs of -remorse. His agitations passed not unnoticed. He was watched: suspicions -beginning to unfold he took alarm, and one evening escaped; but not -without previously informing the partner of his crimes which way he -intended to flee. Several pursued; but the inscrutable will of -Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed to behold the effects -of celestial vengeance. - -"Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from the youth. -I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. One whole -day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather than be near -an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now survey that slender -form and those flowing tresses, which had interested me before so much -in his behalf! - -"No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than sullenly -retiring to yonder rock he sat careless of the sun and scorching winds; -for it was now the summer solstice. He was equally heedless of the -unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were augmented; and I -meditated several times to abandon my hovel and fly to the next village; -but a power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified my -mind. - -"I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called at the -wicket of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I arose, and saw a -peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely muffled up, and -casting her eyes on the ground. My heart misgave me. I thought this was -the very maid who had been the cause of such atrocious wickedness. Nor -were my conjectures ill-founded. Regardless of the clown who stood by in -stupid astonishment, she fell to the earth and bathed my hand with -tears. Her trembling lips with difficulty enquired after the youth; and, -as she spoke, a glow of conscious guilt lightened up her pale -countenance. - -"The full recollection of her lover's crimes shot through my memory. I -was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but, she clung to my -garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so full of misery, -that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity of the cliff -where the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the sea. His eye was -rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon the object for whose sake -he had doomed himself to perdition. - -"Far be it from me to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness with -which they sought each other's embraces. I indignantly turned my head -away; and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving -in my mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision for -my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned homewards by the light -of the moon which shone serenely in the heavens. Almost the first object -her beams discovered was the guilty maid sustaining the head of her -lover, who had fainted through weakness and want of nourishment. I -fetched some dry bread, and dipping it in milk laid it before them. -Having performed this duty I set open the door of my hut, and retiring -to a neighbouring cavity, there stretched myself on a heap of leaves and -offered my prayers to Heaven. - -"A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into my fancy. The -shadow of leaves that chequered the entrance to the grot, seemed to -assume in my distempered imagination the form of ugly reptiles, and I -repeatedly shook my garments. The flow of the distant surges was -deepened by my apprehensions into distant groans: in a word, I could not -rest; but issuing from the cavern as hastily as my trembling knees would -allow, paced along the edge of the precipice. An unaccountable impulse -would have hurried my steps, yet such was my terror and shivering, that -unable to advance to my hut or retreat to the cavern, I was about to -shield myself from the night in a sandy crevice, when a loud shriek -pierced my ear. My fears had confused me; I was in fact near my hovel -and scarcely three paces from the brink of the cavern: it was thence the -cries proceeded. - -"Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was newly -crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended by one -foot to a branch of juniper that grew several feet down: thus dreadfully -did he hang over the gulph from the branch bending with his weight. His -features were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his -screams became so shrill and terrible that I lost all power of affording -assistance. Fixed, I stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who -incessantly cried out, 'O God! O Father! save me if there be yet mercy! -save me, or I sink into the abyss!' - -"I am convinced he did not see me; for not once did he implore my help. -His voice grew faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, the loose thong of -leather, which had entangled itself in the branches by which he hung -suspended, gave way, and he fell into utter darkness. I sank to the -earth in a trance; during which a sound like the rush of pennons -assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was bearing off his soul; -but when I lifted up my eyes nothing stirred; the stillness that -prevailed was awful. - -"The moon hanging low over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I -perceived some one coming down that white cliff you see before you; and -I soon heard the voice of the young woman calling aloud on her guilty -lover. She stopped. She repeated again and again her exclamation; but -there was no reply. Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the path, and -now I saw her on the promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with -her glances every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she flew -to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed the -fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my countenance. I -continued pointing to the chasm; she trembled not; her tears could not -flow; but she divined the meaning. 'He is lost!' said she; 'the earth -has swallowed him! but, as I have shared with him the highest joy, so -will I partake his torments. I will follow: dare not to hinder me.' - -"Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside me; and, -clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look on the -hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness that told me she -was bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on the -ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover's temples, -she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, thrust it -into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the last act of despair -and miserable passion, she threw herself, with a furious leap, into the -gulph. - -"To its margin I crawled on my knees, and there did I remain in the most -dreadful darkness; for now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured with -storms, and a tempestuous blast ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick -upon me, and the lightning, in clear and frequent flashes, gave me -terrifying glimpses of yonder accursed chasm. - -"Stranger, dost thou believe in our Redeemer? in his most holy mother? -in the tenets of our faith?" I answered with reverence, but said her -faith and mine were different. "Then," continued the aged woman, "I will -not declare before a heretic what were the visions of that night of -vengeance!" She paused; I was silent. - -After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she resumed her -narrative. "Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, and it was -late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous clouds. I -was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs began to -brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against me. Then -did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all human beings the -most abject and miserable. How different did I feel myself from those, -fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, and driven for ever from the -morning! - -"Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some grave and -ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, -about the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with every -dreadful particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse concerning -them was expressly stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for -their souls." - -With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her -singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph to call -my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed to think, from the -paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some gloomy prediction, -and shook his head, when I turned round to bid my old hostess adieu! It -was a melancholy evening, and I could not refrain from tears, whilst, -winding through the defiles of the rocks, the sad scenes which had -passed amongst them recurred to my memory. - -Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I rambled a -few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The last streaks of -light were quivering on the waters when I stepped into the bark, and -wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, some of -whose inhabitants came forth with torches to light us home. - - - - -LETTER XXIV. - - The Tyrol Mountains.--Intense cold.--Delight on beholding human - habitations. - - -Augsburg, 20th January, 1781. - -For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling -in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of pine -through which our route conducted us. We were often obliged to travel by -moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful aspect of the Tyrol -mountains buried in snow. - -I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though prompted -by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should interrupt -the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these boundless -solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, for aught I -know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed on without -perceiving the slightest hint of their existence. - -I never before felt so much pleasure by discovering a smoke rising from -a cottage, or hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not have -supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or three fur -caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their concealments. I wish -you had been with me, exploring this savage region: wrapped up in our -bear-skins, we should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, -perhaps, into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the -heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by dwarfs, -and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad scheme to sleep away five -or six years to come, since every hour affairs are growing more and more -turbulent. Well, let them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the -shades of our thickets. - - - - -SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. - - - - -The following letters, written during a second excursion, are added, on -account of their affinity to some of the preceding. - - - - -LETTER I. - - First day of Summer.--A dismal Plain.--Gloomy entrance to - Cologne.--Labyrinth of hideous edifices.--Hotel of Der Heilige - Geist. - - -Cologne, 28th May, 1782. - -This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses blow, -butterflies are on the wing, and I have spirits enough to write to you. -We have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like the slough -of Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal plain, -apparently boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and then a -blue meteor glided along the morass which lay before us. - -After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour's time -discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and crowned -by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and knocked; no one answered. -We repeated our knocks; the gate returned a hollow sound; the horses -coughed, their riders blew their horns. At length the bars fell, and we -entered--by what means I am ignorant, for no human being appeared. - -A labyrinth of narrow winding streets, dark as the vaults of a -cathedral, opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least twenty -minutes, between lofty mansions with grated windows and strange -galleries projecting one over another, from which depended innumerable -uncouth figures and crosses, in iron-work, swinging to and fro with the -wind. At the end of this gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen -feet wide, I am certain; the houses still loftier than those just -mentioned, the windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not -what else to call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights -glimmering in the highest stories, and arches on the right and left, -which seemed to lead into retired courts and deeper darkness. - -Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as I -hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went out -at the same arch through which we had entered. This procession seemed at -first very mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our -postilions, who confessed they had lost their way. A council was held -amongst them in form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of -hideous edifices, habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a -creature stirred; though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all -the vaults and arches. - -Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of a -casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an -apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Enter the Tyrol.--Picturesque scenery.--Village of - Nasseriet.--World of boughs.--Forest huts.--Floral abundance. - - -Inspruck, June 4, 1782. - -No sooner had we passed Fuessen than we entered the Tyrol, a country of -picturesque wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I delight -in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs gushed out on every side, -overhung by luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day was mild, though -overcast, and a soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, above which rise -mountains that bear plains of snow into the clouds. - -At night we lay at Nasseriet, a village buried amongst savage -promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into -smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, -whose delicate foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. -Flights of birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran -delighted into this world of boughs, whilst Cozens sat down to draw the -huts which are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover -themselves amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner. - -These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas of -pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from whence -they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with flowers. -Gentians predominated, brighter than ultramarine; here and there -auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed upon tufts of -ranunculus. Bushes of phillyrea were very frequent, the sun shining full -on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away swiftly in these pleasant -groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, a tower of leaves and -branches. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore of - Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its deserted - appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. - - -Padua, June 14th, 1782. - -Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding -Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever man -was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the Brenta, -into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. -Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and -palaces, seemed flying after each other, so rapid was our motion. - -After a few hours' confinement between close steeps, the scene opened to -the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely time to look -before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, the Lagunes -tinted like the opal, and the islands of a glowing flame-colour. The -mountains of the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy grey, -and innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their blackness. -The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up in the tempestuous -clouds. - -In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising out -of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable bells to my -ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, and recognised -those solemn palaces, with their lofty arcades and gloomy arches, -beneath which I had so often sat, the scene of many a strange adventure. - -The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town -appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the Place of -St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and forwards, -opposite the Ducal Palace, by moon-light. They are building a spacious -quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San -Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following the -wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening to the -waters dashing against marble steps. - -I closed my evening at my friend Madame de Rosenberg's, where I met -Cesarotti, who read to us some of the most affecting passages in his -Fingal, with all the intensity of a poet, thoroughly persuaded that into -his own bosom the very soul of Ossian had been transfused. - -Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season of -June, and the canals much ruffled; but I was determined to visit the -Lido once more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines in the -garden of the Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, -which was very poetically buffeted by the waves. - -Traversing the desert of locusts,[11] I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged -into its agitated waters. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to -such a degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to -thread its labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber -and oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandise, the perfume -of coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics -sitting cross-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars of -Constantinople. - -It is certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series of eastern -ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark's a mosque, and -the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of arabesque saloons, -embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Excursion to Mirabello.--Beauty of the road thither.--Madame de - R.'s wild-looking niece.--A comfortable Monk's nest. - - -Padua, June 19th, 1782. - -The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony's bells in full chime. A -shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and -grateful, that Madame de R. and myself determined to seize the -opportunity and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti had -inhabited, situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles from -Padua. - -Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, overhung -by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found myself in the -midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with clover, and shaded -by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I gathered the fruit, and -grew cooler and happier every instant. - -We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where my friend's little -wild-looking niece pitched her pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs -of Bertoni's Armida. That enchantress might have raised her palace in -this situation; and, had I been Rinaldo, I certainly should not very -soon have abandoned it. - -After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which sprang -from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and villas; tall -cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out of a sea of -corn and vine. - -Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant -Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards -Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chesnuts, where the -peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, to a mountain, crowned -by a circular grove of fir and cypress. - -In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; -perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, a -thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream of. - -Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the grove, -and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to pass the -night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant prospect. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Rome.--Stroll to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.--A grand - Rinfresco.--The Egyptian Lionesses.--Illuminations. - - -Rome, 29th June 1782. - -It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you know -how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This evening, -instead of parading the Corso with the puppets in blue and silver coats, -and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal this, and -dotting my head to Abb t'other, I strolled to the Coliseo and scrambled -amongst its arches. Then bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I -passed under the Arch of Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite -deserted, the world, thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in -coffee-houses, or staring at a few painted boards, patched up before the -Colonna palace, where, by the by, to-night is a grand _rinfresco_ for -all the dolls and doll-fanciers of Rome. I heard their buzz at a -distance; that was enough for me! - -Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, -and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. This -animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured out to me -the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled Romulus and -his brother. - -About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet on -the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of the Villa Medici; before, -lies roof beyond roof, and dome beyond dome: these are dimly discovered; -but do not you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling with -illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, that -structure of fire must be visionary. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - The Negroni Garden.--Its solitary and antique appearance.--Stately - Porticos of the Lateran.--Dreary Scene. - - -Rome, 30th June 1782. - -As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but -finding it haunted by pompous people, nay, even by the Spanish -Ambassador, and several red-legged Cardinals, I moved off to the Negroni -garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets of jasmine, and -wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress totally neglected, -and almost impassable through the luxuriance of the vegetation; on every -side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and altars sacred to the -Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain the Manes must love. -The air was filled with the murmurs of water, trickling down basins of -porphyry, and losing itself amongst overgrown weeds and grasses. - -Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and a -strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria Maggiore; -no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who delights in -sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with its high and -reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths of Dioclesian, -which peep over one of its walls. - -At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately -porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. Some priests -jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my shoulder through the -portals, into the portico. Night began to fill it with darkness. Upon -turning round, the melancholy waste of the Campagna met my eyes, and I -wished to go home, but had scarcely the power. A pressure, like that I -have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the pavement. - -I was thus in a manner forced to dwell upon the dreary scene, the long -line of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome vapours, -rising like blue mists from the plains, had affected me. I know not how -it was; but I never experienced such strange, such chilling terrors. -About ten o'clock, thank God, the spell dissolved, I found my limbs at -liberty, and returned home. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Naples.--Portici.--The King's Pagliaro and Garden.--Description of - that pleasant spot. - - -Naples, July 8th, 1782. - -The sea-breezes restore me to life. I set the heat of mid-day at -defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. I passed -yesterday at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing and pleasant, -invited us at an early hour into the open air. We drove, in an uncovered -chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other unroyal carriage except Sir -W.'s being allowed to enter its alleys, we breathed a fresh air, -untainted by dust or garlick. Every now and then, amidst wild bushes of -ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, sometimes a -fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit undisturbed, -contemplating the blue glittering bay. - -The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, whose -white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the most -magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as one -passes by; such is their size and dignity. In the midst of the thickets -stands the King's Pagliaro, in a small garden, with hedges of luxuriant -jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as much as nature -pleases. - -The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I entered -this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the days of fairy -pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. Bright tiles compose -the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. In the middle of the -room you see a table spread with a beautiful Persian carpet; at one end, -four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King and his favourites -repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble basin. Mount a little -staircase, and you find yourself in another apartment, formed by the -roof, which being entirely composed of glistening straw, casts that -comfortable yellow glow I admire. From the windows you look into the -garden, not flourished over with parterres, but divided into plats of -fragrant herbs and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, -or basin of the purest water. - -These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, and -so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of other -vegetables, as fresh as in our green England. - - - - -GRANDE CHARTREUSE. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the Village of - Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance of the - Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--Dark Woods and - Caverns.--Crosses.--Inscriptions. - - -Gray's sublime Ode on the Grande Chartreuse had sunk so deeply into my -spirit that I could not rest in peace on the banks of the Leman Lake -till I had visited the scene from whence he caught inspiration. I longed -to penetrate these sacred precincts, to hear the language of their -falling waters, and throw myself into the gloom of their forests: no -object of a worldly nature did I allow to divert my thoughts, neither -the baths of Aix, nor the habitation of the too indulgent Madame de -Warens (held so holy by Rousseau's worshippers), nor the magnificent -road cut by Charles Emanuel of Savoy through the heart of a rocky -mountain. All these points of attraction, so interesting to general -travellers, were lost upon me, so totally was I absorbed in the -anticipation of the pilgrimage I had undertaken. - -Mr. Lettice, who shared all my sentiments of admiration for Gray, and -eagerness to explore the region he had described in his short and -masterly letters with such energy, felt the same indifference as myself -to commonplace scenery. - -The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached Les Echelles, a -miserable village, with but few of its chimneys smoking, situated at the -base of a mountain, round which had gathered a concourse of red and -greyish clouds. I was heartily glad to leave these forlorn and wretched -quarters at the first dawn of the next day. We were now obliged to -abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded towards the mountains, -which, with the valleys between them, form what is called the Desert of -the Carthusians. - -In an hour's time we were drawing near, and could discern the opening of -a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which rose lofty -peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We could now distinguish -the roar of torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, issuing from -dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was somewhat startled. -I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and it was not without a -degree of unwillingness that I left the gay pastures and enlivening -sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy and disturbed region. How -dreadful, thought I, must be the despair of those, who enter it, never -to return! - -But after the first impression was worn away all my curiosity redoubled; -and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, we made such -good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain were soon left -far behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the torrent, whose -agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had inspired. Into the -midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our -horses, and, when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means -displeased to have passed them. - -We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks -diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, and the -sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began to ascend -towards the entrance of the desert, marked by two pinnacles of rock far -above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. Every moment we -approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had alarmed us; and, -suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several mills and -forges, with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over the -torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in the precipices; on -one side of which I perceived our road winding along, till it was -stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock above one of the forges was -hollowed into the shape of a round tower, of no great size, but -resembling very much an altar in figure; and, what added greatly to the -grandeur of the object, was a livid flame continually palpitating upon -it, which the gloom of the valley rendered perfectly discernible. - -The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become so -narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too well -acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, therefore, -I walked towards the edge of the great fell, and there, leaning on a -fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, where the waters -were hurled along over broken pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. -Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, -frowning on the brows of the mountains. - -It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, and -penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I believe, -uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the dashing of the -wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of the forges, that -what I said was luckily undistinguishable. - -I was not yet, however, within the consecrated enclosure, and therefore -not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced in silence up -the path, which led to the great portal. When we arrived before it, I -rested a moment, and looking against the stout oaken gate, which closed -up the entrance to this unknown region, felt at my heart a certain awe, -that brought to my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient days -going to be admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries. - -My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly -opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again carefully -closed. - -I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by peaks -of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving downwards -till their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the water, over -which hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. The rocks seemed -crowding upon me, and, by their particular situation, threatened to -obstruct every ray of light; but, notwithstanding the menacing -appearance of the prospect, I still kept following my guide, up a craggy -ascent, partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the trunks of -ancient fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till we came to a -dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over the dell. - -The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents rushing with -additional violence are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; every -object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway between the -base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. The channel of -the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the pale willows and -wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas of those dismal -abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts of -conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was regarding these -regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my eyes to vary the -scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs glistening with the light -of the sun, to emerge from these melancholy forests. - -On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a moment -its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written VIA COELI. The cliffs -being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the edge of the -precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the rocks, in which -several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. Here we reposed an -instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, piercing the thickets -and gilding the waters that bubbled from the rock, over which hung -another cross, inscribed with this short sentence, which the situation -rendered wonderfully pathetic, O SPES UNICA! the fervent exclamation of -some wretch disgusted with the world whose only consolation was found in -this retirement. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Thick forest of beech trees.--Fearful glimpses of the - torrent.--Throne of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of the - Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched - aisle.--Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.--The Secretary and - Procurator.--Conversation with them.--A walk amongst the cloisters - and galleries.--Pictures of different Convents of the order.--Grand - Hall adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno's life. - - -We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech trees, -that screened in some measure the precipices on which they grew, -catching however every instant terrifying glimpses of the torrent below. -Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and falling over the -mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to join the great -torrent, athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering -bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing over to -his hermitage, that just peeped above the woody labyrinths on the -opposite shore. - -Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech -trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, which -he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received his -revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy ground, -for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of character as -would alone be sufficient to impress the idea. - -Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty -arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, -mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before two -cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue our -road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently -precipitating themselves from the woods and lashing the base of the -mountains, mossed over with a dark sea green. - -In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered my -prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, -that I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the -second portal beheld with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the throne of -Moses. - -It was now about ten o'clock, and my guide assured me I should soon -discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, and -continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into another -gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we entered again -into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted by ridges of -cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the farther end of this -inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered turrets of the -Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow of the hill; beyond -them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents itself, terminated by -spires of rock and promontories lost amongst the clouds. - -The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and all the -scenes of horror and confusion I had passed were succeeded by a sacred -and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand sensations I -despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the convent with as -much awe as some novice or candidate newly arrived to solicit the holy -retirement of the order. - -As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost any -other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst the -porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court watered by -two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, characterized by a -noble simplicity. - -The interior portal opening discovered an arched aisle, extending till -the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily -distributed between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just -sufficient to distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. We -had scarcely set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to issue -from an arch, about half way down, and passing in a long succession from -their chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, and -dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone in the aisle. - -The father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with -great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more -pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so -common in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent -questions, he called one of the lay brothers, who live in the convent -under less severe restrictions than the fathers, whom they serve, and -ordering him to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square -hall with casement windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous -chimney, whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, -on each side of which were two doors that communicated with the neat -little cells destined for our bed-chambers. - -Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means -unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang -which summoned him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set -before us the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left us -at full liberty to examine our chambers. - -The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light to -enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened by the -gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable air, -which even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers descended -with great violence, the lay brother and another of his companions were -placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the finest -linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined a number -of portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, they -called us to a dinner widely different from what might have been -expected in so dreary a situation. Our attendant friar was helping us to -some Burgundy, of the happiest growth and vintage, when the coadjutor -returned, accompanied by two other fathers, the secretary and -procurator, whom he presented to us. You would have been both charmed -and surprised with the cheerful resignation that appeared in their -countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation. - -The coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his -countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and there -was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which could not -fail to interest. There were moments when the recollection of some past -event seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy that rendered it -still more affecting. I should suspect he formerly possessed a great -share of natural vivacity (something of it being still, indeed, apparent -in his more unguarded moments); but this spirit is almost entirely -subdued by the penitence and mortification of the order. - -The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in the -political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive -correspondence these fathers preserve with the three hundred and sixty -subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all those countries where the -court of Rome still maintains its influence. - -In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions -about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had belonged -to their order; and principally that of Witham, which they had learnt to -be now in my possession. - -The secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere -these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the sake -of St. Hugo, their canonized prior. I replied greatly to his -satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour of St. Bruno, and the -holy prior of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly delighted -with the conversation, and made me promise to remain some days with -them. I readily complied with their request, and, continuing in the same -strain, that had so agreeably affected their ears, was soon presented -with the works of St. Bruno, whom I so zealously admired. - -After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort of -subjects for about an hour, the coadjutor proposed a walk amongst the -cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any longer -excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, which -brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of -pictures, representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was -now in the capital of the order, where the general resides, and from -whence he issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute -the superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the -wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest districts -of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held annually -under him, a week or two after Easter. - -This reverend father died about ten days before our arrival: a week ago -they elected the prior of the Carthusian convent at Paris in his room, -and two fathers were now on their route to apprise him of their choice, -and to salute him General of the Carthusians. During this interregnum -the coadjutor holds the first rank in the temporal, and the grand -vicaire in the spiritual affairs of the order; both of which are very -extensive. - -If I may judge from the representation of the different convents, which -adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for the -singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the landscapes -which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody island; -and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, struck -me as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries hung -formerly in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, together -with the old convent. The list only remains, with but a very few written -particulars concerning them. - -Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the -descriptions the coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery and -entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps burning -before them, on each side of a lofty portal. This opened into a grand -coved hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno's life, and -the portraits of the generals of the order, since the year of the great -founder's death (1085) to the present time. Under these portraits are -the stalls for the superiors, who assist at the grand convocation. In -front, appears the general's throne; above, hangs a representation of -the canonized Bruno, crowned with stars. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the - Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The great - Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to St. - Bruno.--Retire to my cell.--Strange writings of St. Bruno.--Sketch - of his Life.--Appalling occurrence.--Vision of the Bishop of - Grenoble.--First institution of the Carthusian order.--Death of St. - Bruno.--His translation. - - -The coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked round -on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been drawing -near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of Bruno's -miracles, pourtrayed on the lower panels of the hall. We left that room -to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in the roof) that brought -us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, from which branched off two -others, joining a fourth of the same most extraordinary dimensions. Vast -ranges of slender pillars extend round the different courts of the -edifice, many of which are thrown into gardens belonging to particular -cells. - -We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much civility, -walked before us through a little corridor that looked on his garden, -showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave of the -coadjutor to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us depart with -concern. Nature has given this poor monk very considerable talents for -painting. He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in a manner -that discovers great facility of execution; but he is not allowed to -exercise his pencil on any other subject, lest he should be amused; and -amusement in this severe order is a crime. He had so subdued, so -mortified an appearance, that I was not sorry to hear the bell, which -summoned the coadjutor to prayers, and prevented my entering any more of -the cells. We continued straying from cloister to cloister, and -wandering along the winding passages and intricate galleries of this -immense edifice, whilst the coadjutor was assisting at vespers. - -In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: no -sound reached my ears but the "minute drops from off the eaves." I sat -down in a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, from -which I was recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, was -almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that I was -deliberating whether I should not remain with them for ever. - -But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the great -chapel, at which we at length arrived after traversing another labyrinth -of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance appeared quite -gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and owes its -cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of polished -marble) that admits the view of a lovely wood, and allows a full blaze -of light to dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, -in a plain but noble style of architecture. - -The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant us -admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel and -were struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple majesty of -the arched roof, and the mild solemn light equally diffused over every -part of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no glaring pictures disgraced -the sanctity of the place. The high altar, standing distinct from the -walls, which were hung with a rich velvet, was the only object on which -many ornaments were lavished; and, it being a high festival, was -clustered with statues of gold, shrines, and candelabra of the -stateliest shape and most delicate execution. Four of the latter, of a -gigantic size, were placed on the steps; which, together with part of -the inlaid floor within the choir, were spread with beautiful carpets. - -The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, and -pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, produced -a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was visible only by -the feint external light admitted from above, the splendour and dignity -of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I retired a moment from it, and -seating myself in one of the furthermost stalls of the choir, looked -towards it, and fancied the whole structure had risen by "subtle magic," -like an exhalation. - -Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and -should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive of -disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, and -were prostrating themselves before the steps of the altar. These -venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; which as -the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the sparkling -of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, and the -gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, began to be -visible just as I left the chapel. - -Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich -embroidered vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we -regained the cloister which led to our apartment, where the supper was -ready prepared. We had scarcely finished it, when the coadjutor, and the -fathers who had accompanied us before, returned, and ranging themselves -round the fire, resumed the conversation about St. Bruno. - -Finding me disposed by the wonders I had seen in the day to listen to -things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate the inspirations -they had received from him, and his mysterious apparitions. I was all -attention, respect, and credulity. The old secretary worked himself up -to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much inclined to imagine -he believed in these moments all the marvellous events he related. The -coadjutor being less violent in his pretensions to St. Bruno's modern -miracles, contented himself with enumerating the noble works he had done -in the days of his fathers, and in the old time before them. - -It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their narrations, -and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, to return to my -cell, where everything invited to repose. I was charmed with the -neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its cabin-like bed, oratory, -and ebony crucifix; in short, every thing it contained; not forgetting -the aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, floored, and -wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had the moon appeared, I could -not have prevailed upon myself to have quitted her till very late; but, -as it happened, I crept into my cabin, and was by "whispering winds soon -lulled asleep." - -Eight o'clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to my great -sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled in -vapours, and the rain descending with violence. - -After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements -admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the works of St. -Bruno; of all medleys one of the strangest. Allegories without end; a -theologico-natural history of birds, beasts, and fishes; several -chapters on paradise; the delights of solitude; the glory of Solomon's -temple; the new Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful subjects, full -of the loftiest enthusiasm. The revered author of this strangely -abstruse and mystic volume was certainly a being of no common order, nor -do we find in the wide circle of legendary traditions an event recorded, -better calculated to inspire the utmost degree of religious terror than -that which determined him to the monastic state. - -St. Bruno was of noble descent, and possessed considerable wealth. Not -less remarkable for the qualities of his mind, their assiduous -cultivation obtained for him the chair of master of the great sciences -in the University of Rheims, where he contracted an intimate friendship -with Odo, afterwards Pope Urban II. Though it appears that a very -cheering degree of public approbation, and all the blandishments of a -society highly polished for the period, contributed, not unprofitably -one should think, to fill up his time, always singular, always -visionary, he began early in life to loathe the world, and sigh after -retirement. - -But a most appalling occurrence converted these sighs into the deepest -groans. A man, who had borne the highest character for the exercise of -every virtue, died, and was being carried to the grave. The procession, -of which Bruno formed a part, was moving slowly on, when a low, mournful -sound issued from the bier. The corpse was distinctly seen to lift up -its ghastly countenance, and as distinctly heard to articulate these -words--"_I am summoned to trial._" After an agonizing pause, the same -terrific voice declared--"_I stand before the tribunal._" Some further -moments of amazement and horror having elapsed, the dead body lifted -itself up a third time, and moving its livid lips uttered forth this -dreadful sentence--"_I am condemned by the just judgment of God._" -"Alas! alas!" exclaimed Bruno--"of how little avail are apparent good -works, or the favourable opinion of mankind! - - Ubi fugiam nisi ad te?-- - -Thy mercies alone can save, and it is not in the frivolous and seductive -intercourse of a worldly life those mercies can be obtained." - -Stricken to the heart by these reflections, he hurried in a fever of -terror and alarm (the sepulchral voice still ringing in his ears) to -Grenoble, of which see one of his dearest friends, the venerable Hugo, -had lately been appointed bishop. - -This saintly prelate soothed the dreadful agitation of his spirits by -relating to him a revelation he had just received in a dream. - -"As I slept," said Hugo, "methought the desert mountains beyond Grenoble -became suddenly visible in the dead of night by the streaming of seven -lucid stars which hung directly over them. Whilst I remained absorbed in -the contemplation of this wonder, an awful voice seemed to break the -nocturnal silence, declaring their dreary solitudes thy future abode, O -Bruno!--by thee to be consecrated as a retirement for holy men desirous -of holding converse with their God. No shepherd's pipe shall be heard -within these precincts; no huntsman's profane feet ever invade their -fastnesses; nor shall woman ascend this mountain, or violate by her -allurements the sacred repose of its inhabitants." - -Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop of -Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few persons that, -like himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the charms of -society, repaired with them to this spot; and, in the darkest parts of -the forests which shade the most gloomy recesses of the mountains, -founded the first convent of Carthusians, long since destroyed. - -Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of the -most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct reaching -Rome, (where his friend had been lately invested with the papal tiara,) -the whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and entreated Urban to -invite him to Rome. The request of Christ's vicegerent was not to be -refused; and Bruno quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some of his -disciples behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously the -infant order. - -The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had -weaned himself entirely from worldly affections. - -Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy -metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to -retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking the -wilds of Calabria, there sequestered himself in a lonely hermitage, -calmly expecting his last moments. - -In his death there was no bitterness. A celestial radiance shone around -him even before he closed his eyes upon this frail existence, and many a -venerable witness has testified that the voices of angelic beings were -heard calling him to come and receive his reward; but as the different -accounts of his translation are not essentially varied, it would be -tedious to recite them. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Mystic discourse.--A mountain ramble.--A benevolent Hermit.--Red - light in the northern sky.--Lose my way in the solitary - hills.--Approach of night. - - -I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the writings of this holy -and highly-gifted personage when the dinner appeared, consisting of -everything most delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre -could allow. The good fathers returned as usual before our repast was -half over, and resumed as usual their mystic discourse, looking all the -time rather earnestly into my countenance to observe the sort of effect -their most marvellous narrations produced upon it. - -Our conversation, which was beginning to take a gloomy and serious turn, -was interrupted, I thought very agreeably, by the sudden intrusion of -the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full splendour above -the highest peak of the mountains, and the vapours fleeting by degrees -discovered the woods in all the freshness of their verdure. The pleasure -I received from seeing this new creation rising to view was very lively, -and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their walks did not often -continue longer than the showers, I left my hall. - -Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly -along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the forests, -enjoyed the charms of the prospect inhaled the perfume of the woodlands, -and now turning towards the summits of the precipices that encircled -this sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours they borrowed from -the sun, contrasted by the dark hues of the forest. Now, casting my eyes -below, I suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from one -stream (beset with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. The -purity of the air in these exalted regions, and the lightness of my own -spirits, almost seized me with the idea of treading in that element. - -Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and falling -waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness and -rapidity that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the appearance -of one possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with the scene to -a degree I despair of expressing. - -Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange ideas, -a father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, stopped my -career, and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench erected under -a neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and disordered looks, -fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk near the snows of -the mountains had alarmed me by his sudden appearance. - -The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to -recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity as -his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning in a -few moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into which he let -fall several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable herbs, and -having performed this deed of charity, signified to me by a look, in -which benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little remains of -curiosity were strongly painted, how sorry he was to be restrained by -his vow of silence from enquiring into the cause of my agitation, and -giving me farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose to -carry on the adventure, and suffered him to depart with all his -conjectures unsatisfied. - -No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit than I started up, -and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the edge of a -woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running from the -opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the cliffs, now -but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some time sinking on -our narrow horizon, reflected that it would be madness to bewilder -myself, at so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. Being thus -determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating into the -lovely region before me, and contented myself for some moments with -marking the pale tints of the evening gradually overspreading the -cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of the setting sun. - -But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by a red -light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my notice as I -sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down what appeared to be a -fathomless ravine blackened by the shade of impervious forests, above -which rose majestically the varied peaks and promontories of the -mountains. - -The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next -caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the valley, -when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange fantastic -shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, passed on, like a -solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway between the stream that -watered it below, and the summits of the cliffs on high. - -The tranquillity of the region, the verdure of the lawn, environed by -girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, filled -me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted up my eyes to -the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming with ruddy -light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering over the space -beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews which began to descend, -and the vapours which were rising from every dell, reminded me of the -lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance that I turned -from the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, and traversed -slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over which I had hurried with -such eagerness an hour ago. - -Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I had -passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following a -different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep -valley. Another moment, descending into the hollows between the hillocks -that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I fancied I had -entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment to be lost amongst -the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around. - -As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more -forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; and -whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and on every -side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp which might -indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I flattered myself, -would direct me to the monastery. - -At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, -unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the -gate, the attendant lay-brothers came out with lights, in order to -search for me; scarcely had I joined them, when the Coadjutor and the -Secretary came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their -uneasiness at my long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, where -Mr. Lettice was waiting, with no small degree of impatience; but I found -not a word had been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, -I believe, he strictly kept his vow till the day when the Carthusians -are allowed to speak, and which happened after my departure. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Pastoral Scenery of Valombr.--Ascent of the highest Peak in the - Desert.--Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.--Farewell benediction of - the Fathers. - - -We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a -circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon -gleamed through the casements, and the stars sparkling above the forests -of pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give myself up -entirely to the spectacle they offered. - -The coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through the -windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay-brother, ordered him to -open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not long before -I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from the courts and -cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, ascended -a green knoll, which several ancient pines strongly marked with their -shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted up my eyes -to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered by the -trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on the woods which -fringed their acclivities. - -The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the -torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale blueish haze, -that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky -promontories above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the deepest -azure, innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual clearness from -this elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the -promontories. White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the -moon, that shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves -far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, throwing itself -from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy vales, was mingled with -the blast that blew from the mountains. - -It increased. The forests began to wave, black clouds rose from the -north, and, as they fleeted along, approached the moon, whose light -they shortly extinguished. A moment of darkness succeeded; the gust was -chill and melancholy; it swept along the desert, and then subsiding, the -vapours began to pass away, and the moon returned; the grandeur of the -scene was renewed, and its imposing solemnity was increased by her -presence. Inspiration was in every wind. - -I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains -before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild woods -and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I eagerly -contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his eyes; drank of -the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran to -every pine, whose withered appearance bespoke the most remote antiquity, -and beneath which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn -with vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his institutions. It -was midnight before I returned to the convent and retired to my quiet -chamber, but my imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far -too active, to allow me any rest for some time. - -I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious -blast, which drove open my casement, for it was a troubled and -tempestuous night, and let in the roar of the tempest. In the intervals -of the storm, in those moments when the winds seemed to pause, the faint -sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but were swallowed up the next -instant by the redoubled fury of the gust, which was still increased by -the roar of the waters. - -I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as well -as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, than I -arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll, where I -had stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure -morning air delightfully refreshing: every tree, every shrub, glistened -with dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the fir-trees -on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly into the clear -blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into the valley between the steeps of -wood and the turrets of the convent, and passed the different buildings, -destined for the manufacture of the articles necessary to the fathers; -for nothing is worn or used within this inclosure, which comes from the -profane world. - -Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was so -lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, which I -crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to an eminence, -covered with a hanging wood of beech-trees feathered to the ground, from -whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a -smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed -up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of shrubs, -entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; at one -extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had directed me -to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous group of cattle, -lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with -long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking them. - -The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that -skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, -dappled cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant -with their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and certainly very -singular spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold "milk-maids -singing blithe," and tripping lightly along with their pails, was not a -little surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures shifted -their trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with what -adroitness they performed their functions, managing their long beards -with a facility and cleanliness equally admirable. - -I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, -before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, -than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down -his pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, -desired me to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, -observing what was going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an -hospitable act, and, quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods, -from whence he returned in a few minutes with some strawberries, very -neatly enveloped in fresh leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, -next invited me to the cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred -the shade of the beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic -herbage, I enjoyed the pastoral character of the scene with all possible -glee. - -Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable gaudy -flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by the -cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs and -forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the -summer hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my -repose in this most delightful of valleys. - -When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I -could converse was the charms of Valombr, for so is this beautifully -wooded region most appropriately called. Notwithstanding the -indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded the -monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, of -conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert. - -Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following his -steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them, -strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, and -dedicated to St. Bruno. - -Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on which -this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed on a -lofty green mountain, from whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a -surprising elevation; and which (owing to the sun's reflection on a -transparent mist hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary -light. This object was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my -activity, I made the best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and -crumbled fragments of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I came -to the green steeps I had surveyed at a distance. - -These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered -beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bade adieu to summer, and -entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the -mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the -crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot -of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets. - -After taking a few moments' repose, my guide prepared to clamber amongst -the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was able, till -laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang upon a small -level space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast -desert and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, -the green meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the -barrier of mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant -countries; the plains where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes -of Savoy; amongst which that of Bourget was near enough to discover its -beauties, all glowing with the warm haze of the setting sun. - -My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey, so turning my eyes -from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks, -through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest -greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others -by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs I -had so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon. - -The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in it -till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time I -visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered -large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which with -a surprising variety of other plants carpeted this lovely glen. A -luxuriant vegetation, - - That on the green turf suck'd the honey'd showers, - And purpled all the ground with vernal flowers. - -My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it would -be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures of -the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I was -very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches in -the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. This -prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several -thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every -minute, shortly skreened the green mountain and all the forest from our -sight. A sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning -began to flash from a dark angry cloud that hung over the valleys and -deluged them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear -expanse of ther. - -But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; -so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and, -carefully following my guide (for a false step might have caused my -destruction) wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak -behind, and just as we reached the green mountain which was moistened -with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its -serenity. - -Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, and -soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand -amphitheatre of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond -which appeared the neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, -where we arrived as the moon was beginning to assume her empire. - -I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the day. -The next morning early, I quitted my kind hosts with great reluctance. -The coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to the outward gate, -and there within the solemn circle of the desert bestowed on me their -benediction. - -It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me till -I was an hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their hands on -their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the world, -here was an asylum. - -I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my -road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate in the midst of the -wide world again, it increased. - -We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chambery, and, instead of -going through Aix, passed by Annecy; but nothing in all the route -engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld -the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs. - -I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I -could sit and think of Valombr. - - - - -SALEVE. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.--Pas - d'Echelle.--Moneti.--Bird's-eye prospects.--Alpine - flowers.--Extensive view from the summit of Saleve.--Youthful - enthusiasm.--Sad realities. - - -I had long wished to revisit the holt of trees so conspicuous on the -summit of Saleve, and set forth this morning to accomplish that purpose. -Brandoin an artist, once the delight of our travelling lords and ladies, -accompanied me. We rode pleasantly and sketchingly along through Carouge -to the base of the mountain, taking views every now and then of -picturesque stumps and cottages. - -At length, after a good deal of lackadaisical loitering on the banks of -the Arve, we reached a sort of goats' path, leading to some steps cut -in the rock, and justly called the Pas d'Echelle. I need not say we were -obliged to dismount and toil up this ladder, beyond which rise steeps of -verdure shaded by walnuts. - -These brought us to Moneti, a rude straggling village, with its church -tower embosomed in gigantic limes. We availed ourselves of their deep -cool shade to dine as comfortably as a whole posse of withered hags, who -seemed to have been just alighted from their broomsticks, would allow -us. - -About half past three, a sledge drawn by four oxen was got ready to drag -us up to the holt of trees, the goal to which we were tending: -stretching ourselves on the straw spread over our vehicle, we set off -along a rugged path, conducted aslant the steep slope of the mountain, -vast prospects opening as we ascended; to our right the crags of the -little Saleve--the variegated plains of Gex and Chablais, separated by -the lake; below, Moneti, almost concealed in wood; behind, the mole, -lifting up its pyramidical summit amidst the wild amphitheatre of -glaciers, which lay this evening in dismal shadow, the sun being -overcast, the Jura half lost in rainy mists, and a heavy storm -darkening the Fort de l'Ecluse. Except a sickly gleam cast on the snows -of the Buet, not a ray of sunshine enlivened our landscape. - -This sorrowful colouring agreed but too well with the dejection of my -spirits. I suffered melancholy recollections to take full possession of -me, and glancing my eyes over the vast map below, sought out those spots -where I had lived so happy with my lovely Margaret. On them did I -eagerly gaze--absorbed in the consciousness of a fatal, irreparable -loss, I little noticed the transports expressed by my companion at the -grand effects of light and shade, which obeyed the movements of the -clouds; nor was I more attentive to the route of our oxen, which, -perfectly familiarized with precipices, preferred their edge to the bank -on the other side, and by this choice gave us an opportunity of looking -down more than a thousand feet perpendicularly on the wild shrubberies -and shattered rocks deep below, at the base of the mountain. In general -I shrink back from such bird's-eye prospects with my head in a whirl, -and yet, by a most unaccountable fascination, feel a feverish impulse -to throw myself into the very gulph I abhor; but to-day I lay in passive -indifference, listlessly extended on our moving bed. - -Its progress being extremely deliberate, we had leisure to observe, as -we crept along, a profusion of Alpine flowers; but none of those -gorgeous insects mentioned by Saussure as abounding on Saleve were -fluttering about them. This was no favourable day for butterfly -excursions; the flowers laden with heavy drops, the forerunners of still -heavier rain, hung down their heads. We passed several chalets, formed -of mud and stone, instead of the neat timber, with which those on the -Swiss mountains are constructed. Meagre peasants, whose sallow -countenances looked quite of a piece with the sandy hue of their -habitations, kept staring at us from crevices and hollow places: the -fresh roses of a garden are not more different from the rank weeds of an -unhealthy swamp, than these wretched objects from the ruddy inhabitants -of Switzerland. - -My heart sank as we were driven alongside of one of these squalid -groups, huddled together under a blasted beech in expectation of a -storm. The wind drove the smoke and sparks of a fire just kindled at the -root of the tree, full in the face of an infant, whose mother had -abandoned it to implore our charity with outstretched withered hands. -The poor helpless being filled the air with waitings, and being tightly -swaddled lip in yellow rags, according to Savoyarde custom, exhibited an -appearance in form and colour not unlike that of an overgrown pumpkin -thrown on the ground out of the way. How should I have enjoyed setting -its limbs at liberty, and transporting it to the swelling bosom of a -Bernese peasant! such as I have seen in untaxed garments, red, blue and -green, with hair falling in braids mixed with flowers and silver -trinkets, hurrying along to some wake or wedding, with that firm step -and smiling hilarity which the consciousness of freedom inspires. - -A few minutes dragging beyond the tree just mentioned, we reached the -bold verdant slopes of delicate short herbage which crown the crags of -the mountain. We now moved smoothly along the turf, brushing it with our -hands to extract its aromatic fragrance, and having no longer rough -stones to encounter, our conveyance became so agreeable that we -regretted our arrival before a chalet, under a clump of weather-beaten -beach. These are the identical trees, so far and widely discovered, on -the summit of Saleve, and the point to which we had been tending. - -Seating ourselves on the very edge of a rocky cornice, we surveyed the -busy crowded territory of Geneva, the vast reach of the lake, its coast, -thickset with castles, towns, and villages, and the long line of the -Jura protecting these richly cultivated possessions. Turning round, we -traced the course of the Arve up to its awful sanctuary, the Alps of -Savoy, above which rose the Mont-Blanc in deadly paleness, backed by a -gloomy sky; nothing could form a stronger contrast to the populous and -fertile plains in front of the mountain than this chaos of snowy peaks -and melancholy deserts, the loftiest in the old world, held up in the -air, and beaten, in spite of summer, with wintry storms. - -I know not how long we should have remained examining the prospect had -the weather been favourable, and had we enjoyed one of those serene -evenings to be expected in the month of July. Many such have I passed in -my careless childish days, stretched out on the brow of this very -mountain, contemplating the heavenly azure of the lake, the innumerable -windows of the villas below blazing in the setting sun, and the glaciers -suffused by its last ray with a blushing pink. How often, giving way to -youthful enthusiasm, have I peopled these singularly varied peaks with -gnomes and fairies, the distributors of gold and crystal to those who -adventurously scaled their lofty abode. - -This evening my fancy was led to no such gay arial excursions; sad -realities chained it to the earth, and to the scene before my eyes, -which, in lowering, sombre hue, corresponded with my interior gloom. A -rude blast driving us off the margin of the precipices, we returned to -the shelter of the beech. There we found some disappointed butterfly -catchers, probably of the watch-making tribe, and a silly boy gaping -after them with a lank net and empty boxes. This being Monday, I thought -the Saleve had been delivered from such intruders; but it seems that -the rage for natural history has so victoriously pervaded all ranks of -people in the republic, that almost every day in the week sends forth -some of its journeymen to ransack the neighbouring cliffs, and transfix -unhappy butterflies. - -Silversmiths and toymen, possessed by the spirit of De Luc and De -Saussure's lucubrations, throw away the light implements of their trade, -and sally forth with hammer and pickaxe to pound pebbles and knock at -the door of every mountain for information. Instead of furbishing up -teaspoons and sorting watch-chains, they talk of nothing but quartz and -feldspath. One flourishes away on the durability of granite, whilst -another treats calcareous rocks with contempt; but as human pleasures -are seldom perfect and permanent, acrimonious disputes too frequently -interrupt the calm of the philosophic excursion. Squabbles arise about -the genus of a coralite, or concerning that element which has borne the -greatest part in the convulsion of nature. The advocate of water too -often sneaks home to his wife with a tattered collar, whilst the -partisan of fire and volcanoes lies vanquished in a puddle, or winding -up the clue of his argument in a solitary ditch. I cannot help thinking -so diffused a taste for fossils and petrifactions of no very particular -benefit to the artisans of Geneva, and that watches would go as well, -though their makers were less enlightened. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity of the - Night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of Genevese Morality. - - -It began to rain just as we entered the chalet under the beech-trees, -and one of the dirtiest I ever crept into--it would have been -uncharitable not to have regretted the absence of swine, for here was -mud and filth enough to have insured their felicity. A woman, whose -teeth of a shining whiteness were the only clean objects I could -discover, brought us foaming bowls of cream and milk, with which we -regaled ourselves, and then got into our vehicle. We but too soon left -the smooth herbage behind, and passed about an hour in rambling down the -mountain pelted by the showers, from which we took shelter under the -limes at Moneti. - -Here we should have drunk our tea in peace and quietness, had it not -been for the incursion of a gang of bandylegged watchmakers, smoking -their pipes, and scraping their fiddles, and snapping their fingers, -with all that insolent vulgarity so characteristic of the Rue-basse -portion of the Genevese community. We got out of their way, you may -easily imagine, as fast as we were able, and descending a rough road, -most abominably strewn with rolling pebbles, arrived at the bridge -d'Etrombieres just as it fell dark. The mouldering planks with which the -bridge is awkwardly put together, sounded suspiciously hollow under the -feet of our horses, and had it not been for the friendly light of a pine -torch which a peasant brought forth, we might have been tumbled into the -Arve. - -It was a mild summer night, the rainy clouds were dissolving away with a -murmur of distant thunder so faint as to be scarcely heard. From time to -time a flash of summer lightning discovered the lonely tower of Moneti -on the edge of the lesser Saleve. The ghostly tales, which the old cur -of the mountains had told me at a period when I hungered and thirsted -after supernatural narrations, recurred to my memory, in all their -variety of horrors, and kept it fully employed till I found myself under -the walls of Geneva. The gates were shut, but I knew they were to be -opened again at ten o'clock for the convenience of those returning from -the _Comedie_. - -The _Comedie_ is become of wonderful importance; but a few years ago the -very name of a play was held in such abhorrence by the spiritual -consistory of Geneva and its obsequious servants, which then included -the best part of the republic, that the partakers and abettors of such -diversions were esteemed on the high road to eternal perdition. Though, -God knows, I am unconscious of any extreme partiality for Calvin, I -cannot help thinking his severe discipline wisely adapted to the moral -constitution of this starch bit of a republic which he took to his grim -embraces. But these days of rigidity and plainness are completely gone -by; the soft spirit of toleration, so eloquently insinuated by Voltaire, -has removed all thorny fences, familiarized his numerous admirers with -every innovation, and laughed scruples of every nature to scorn. -Voltaire, indeed, may justly be styled the architect of that gay -well-ornamented bridge, by which freethinking and immorality have been -smuggled into the republic under the mask of philosophy and liberality -and sentiment. These monsters, like the Sin and Death of Milton, have -made speedy and irreparable havoc. To facilitate their operations, rose -the genius of "Rentes Viagres" at his bidding, tawdry villas with their -little pert groves of poplar and horse-chesnut start up--his power -enables Madame C. D. the bookseller's lady to amuse the D. of G. with -assemblies, sets Parisian cabriolets and English phaetons rolling from -one faro table to another, and launches innumerable pleasure parties -with banners and popguns on the lake, drumming and trumpeting away their -time from morn till evening. I recollect, not many years past, how -seldom the echoes of the mountains were profaned by such noises, and how -rarely the drones of Geneva, if any there were in that once industrious -city, had opportunities of displaying their idleness; but now -Dissipation reigns triumphant, and to pay the tribute she exacts, every -fool runs headlong to throw his scrapings into the voracious whirlpool -of annuities; little caring, provided he feeds high and lolls in his -carriage, what becomes of his posterity. I had ample time to make these -reflections, as the _Comedie_ lasted longer than usual. - -Luckily the night improved, the storms had rolled away, and the moon -rising from behind the crags of the lesser Saleve cast a pleasant gleam -on the smooth turf of plain-palais, where we walked to and fro above -half an hour. We had this extensive level almost entirely to ourselves, -no light glimmered in any window, no sound broke the general stillness, -except a low murmur proceeding from a group of chesnut trees. There, -snug under a garden wall on a sequestered bench, sat two or three -Genevois of the old stamp, chewing the cud of sober sermons--men who -receive not more than seven or eight per cent. for their money; there -sat they waiting for their young ones, who had been seduced to the -theatre. - -A loud hubbub and glare of flambeaus proclaiming the end of the play, we -left these good folks to their rumination, and regaining our carriage -rattled furiously through the streets of Geneva, once so quiet, so -silent at these hours, to the no small terror and annoyance of those -whom Rentes Viagres had not yet provided with a speedier conveyance -than their own legs, or a brighter satellite than an old cook-maid with -a candle and lantern. - -It was eleven o'clock before we reached home, and near two before I -retired to rest, having sat down immediately to write this letter whilst -the impressions of the day were fresh in my memory. - -END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - -LONDON: - -PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, - -Dorset Street, Fleet Street. - - - - - - -ITALY; - -WITH SKETCHES OF - -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF "VATHEK." - -THIRD EDITION. - -IN TWO VOLUMES. - -VOL. II. - -LONDON: - -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, - -Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. - -1835. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - -PORTUGAL. - -LETTER I. - -Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening -ramble. Page 5 - -LETTER II. - -Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid -progress of Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious -extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp's mansion.--Beautiful -lake.--The wind still contrary. 8 - -LETTER III. - -A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral -effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected -dreams. 12 - -LETTER IV. - -A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the -compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. 16 - -LETTER V. - -Regrets produced by contrasts. 19 - -LETTER VI. - -Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant -vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of -the voyage. 21 - -LETTER VII. - -Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal -labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese -Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture -in petticoats.--Force of education.--Royalty without power.--Return -from the Palace. 23 - -LETTER VIII. - -Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic -Gardens.--Aafatas.--Description of the Gardens and -Terraces. 29 - -LETTER IX. - -Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley -of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the -Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of -rarities.--The Viceroy of Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A -night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary Procession.--Blessings -of Patriarchal Government. 34 - -LETTER X. - -Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the -streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the -Sacrament in awful state.--Gorgeous procession.--Bewildering -confusion of sounds. 47 - -LETTER XI. - -Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian -wife.--Magnificent Repast.--A tragic damsel. 51 - -LETTER XII. - -Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation -of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of -exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the -edge of the Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy -One of Lisbon. 55 - -LETTER XIII. - -The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic -Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to -the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking -effigy of the Saviour.--A young and melancholy -Carthusian.--The Cemetery. 59 - -LETTER XIV. - -Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor -Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit -to the Theatre in the Rua d'os Condes.--The -Archbishop Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching -nature of that music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm -of the young Conde de Villanova.--No accounting for -fancies. 68 - -LETTER XV. - -Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public -gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit -to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous -narrations of a young priest.--Convent of -Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore's chickens.--Sequestered -group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. 77 - -LETTER XVI. - -Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of -Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows -of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre -Duarte, a famous Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a -conceited Physician.--Their ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese -minuets. 88 - -LETTER XVII. - -Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Jos di Ribamar.--Breakfast -at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent -and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of -mysterious chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening -scene in the garden of Marvilla. 96 - -LETTER XVIII. - -Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalha.--The Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion -designed by Pillement.--A convulsive -gallop.--Cold weather in July. 104 - -LETTER XIX. - -Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of -Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on -the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of -Alphonso the Sixth.--The Chapel.--Barbaric profusion -of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he -received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in preparation -for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalha. 110 - -LETTER XX. - -Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday -of Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome -lights of Truth.--Invective against the English. 117 - -LETTER XXI. - -The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal -of a Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. 123 - -LETTER XXII. - -Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast -fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The -Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. -Augustine.--The collateral Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The -Abbot of the Convent.--The Library.--View from -the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of the Capitan -Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the Organs.--The -Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive crowd.--The -Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de -Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan -Mor's. 127 - -LETTER XXIII. - -High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave -Mafra.--An accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful -view from it. 143 - -LETTER XXIV. - -A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing -stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful -funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of -Penha Verde. 147 - -LETTER XXV. - -Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. -Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The -old Consul and his tray of jewels. 157 - -LETTER XXVI. - -Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke -d'Alafoens.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of -the Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163 - -LETTER XXVII. - -Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular -invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity -and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary -personage. 169 - -LETTER XXVIII. - -Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora -da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The -Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination -of the Ancients exemplified. 179 - -LETTER XXIX. - -Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa -to the edifices in Caspar Poussin's landscapes.--The ancient -pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de -Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx -of visitors.--A celebrated Prior's erudition and -strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--OEcolampadius.--Bevy -of Palace damsels.--Fte at the -Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A -favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the -Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous -etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The -young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189 - -LETTER XXX. - -Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.--The -Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese -poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy -Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations -in honour of the Infanta's accouchement.--Public -harangues.--Policarpio's singing, and anecdotes -of the _haute noblesse_. 201 - -LETTER XXXI. - -Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song -of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview -with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation -with His Royal Highness.--Return to -Ramalha. 212 - -LETTER XXXII. - -Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of -the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His -house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train -of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black -dose of legendary superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A -dreary evening. 229 - -LETTER XXXIII. - -Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of -beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful -countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess -of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A -strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira -Mor's.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the -Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on -leaving Portugal. 235 - -LETTER XXXIV. - -Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by -Perez and Jomelli.--Marialva's affecting address.--My -sorrow and anxiety. 253 - - - - -SPAIN. - - -LETTER I. - -Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The -church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on -the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach -Arroyolos. 259 - - -LETTER II. - -A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An -outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our -reception there.--My visiters. 268 - - -LETTER III. - -Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A -muleteer's enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey -resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered -hags.--Names and characters of our mules.--Posada at -Merida. 275 - - -LETTER IV. - -Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal -country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense -wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the -escrivano.--A terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range -of lofty mountains.--Calzada. 282 - - -LETTER V. - -Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera.--Drawling -tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at -Santa Olaya.--The lady of the house and her dogs and -dancers. 289 - - -LETTER VI. - -Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most -determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach -to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d'Alcala.--The -Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. 296 - - -LETTER VII. - -The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her -apartment described.--Her passion for music.--Her seoros -de honor. 301 - - -LETTER VIII. - -The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and -gardens of the Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and -his numerous train.--Farinelli's apartments. 305 - - -LETTER IX. - -The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The -Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The -Theatre.--A highly popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their -glory. 310 - - -LETTER X. - -Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception -by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence -of the choir.--Charles the Fifth's organ.--Crucifix -by Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.--Extent -and intricacy of the stupendous edifice. 314 - - -LETTER XI. - -Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from -the Archangel Gabriel's wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.--Sepulchral -cave.--River of death.--The regal sarcophagi. 323 - - -LETTER XII. - -A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco's.--Curious assemblage -in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an -eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini -in despair.--Solecisms in dancing. 329 - - -LETTER XIII. - -Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King's sleeping -apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture -of the Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don -Gabriel and the Infanta.--Her Royal Highness's affecting -recollections of home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition -of national manners there. 339 - - -LETTER XIV. - -A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with -him.--History of a Ghost-seer. 349 - - -LETTER XV. - -Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, -an infidel in the German style.--Mass in the -chapel of the Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba's villa.--Destruction -by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French -ambassador's ball.--Heir-apparent of the -house of Medina Celi. 354 - - -LETTER XVI. - -Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens -of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame -d'Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame -d'Aranda's toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame -Badaan.--Cortejos off duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A -curious group.--A dance. 358 - - -LETTER XVII. - -Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange -medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the -Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco -by Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present -reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna's house.--Apathy -pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. 365 - - -LETTER XVIII. - -Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive -rage for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley -of Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.--Degeneration -of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. 376 - - - - -PORTUGAL. - - - - -PREFACE - -TO - -PORTUGUESE LETTERS. - - -Portugal attracting much attention in her present convulsed and -declining state, it might not perhaps be uninteresting to the public to -cast back a glance by way of contrast to the happier times when she -enjoyed, under the mild and beneficent reign of Donna Maria the First, a -great share of courtly and commercial prosperity. - -March 1, 1834. - - - - -PORTUGAL. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble. - - -Falmouth, March 6, 1787. - -The glass is sinking; the west wind gently breathing upon the water, the -smoke softly descending into the room, and sailors yawning dismally at -the door of every ale-house. - -Navigation seems at a full stop. The captains lounging about with their -hands in their pockets, and passengers idling at billiards. Dr. V---- -has scraped acquaintance with a quaker, and went last night to one of -their assemblies, where he kept jingling his fine Genevan watch-chains -to their sober and silent dismay. - -In the intervals of the mild showers with which we are blessed, I ramble -about some fields already springing with fresh herbage, which slope -down to the harbour: the immediate environs of Falmouth are not -unpleasant upon better acquaintance. Just out of the town, in a -sheltered recess of the bay, lies a grove of tall elms, forming several -avenues carpeted with turf. In the central point rises a stone pyramid -about thirty feet high, well designed and constructed, but quite plain -without any inscription; between the stems of the trees one discovers a -low white house, built in and out in a very capricious manner, with -oriel windows and porches, shaded by bushes of prosperous bay. Several -rose-coloured cabbages, with leaves as crisped and curled as those of -the acanthus, decorate a little grass-plat, neatly swept, before the -door. Over the roof of this snug habitation I spied the skeleton of a -gothic mansion, so completely robed with thick ivy, as to appear like -one of those castles of clipped box I have often seen in a Dutch garden. - -Yesterday evening, the winds being still, and the sun gleaming warm for -a moment or two, I visited this spot to examine the ruin, hear birds -chirp, and scent wall-flowers. - -Two young girls, beautifully shaped, and dressed with a sort of romantic -provincial elegance, were walking up and down the grove by the pyramid. -There was something so love-lorn in their gestures, that I have no doubt -they were sighing out their souls to each other. As a decided amateur of -this sort of _confidential promenade_, I would have given my ears to -have heard their _confessions_. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid progress of - Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious - extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp's mansion.--Beautiful - lake.--The wind still contrary. - - -Falmouth, March 7, 1787. - -Scott came this morning and took me to see the consolidated mines in the -parish of Gwynnap; they are situated in a bleak desert, rendered still -more doleful by the unhealthy appearance of its inhabitants. At every -step one stumbles upon ladders that lead into utter darkness, or funnels -that exhale warm copperous vapours. All around these openings the ore is -piled up in heaps waiting for purchasers. I saw it drawn reeking out of -the mine by the help of a machine called a whim, put in motion by mules, -which in their turn are stimulated by impish children hanging over the -poor brutes, and flogging them round without respite. This dismal scene -of _whims_, suffering mules, and hillocks of cinders, extends for -miles. Huge iron engines creaking and groaning, invented by Watt, and -tall chimneys smoking and flaming, that seem to belong to old Nicholas's -abode, diversify the prospect. - -Two strange-looking Cornish beings, dressed in ghostly white, conducted -me about, and very kindly proposed a descent into the bowels of the -earth, but I declined initiation. These mystagogues occupy a tolerable -house, with fair sash windows, where the inspectors of the mine hold -their meetings, and regale upon beef, pudding, and brandy. - -While I was standing at the door of this habitation, several woful -figures in tattered garments, with pickaxes on their shoulders, crawled -out of a dark fissure and repaired to a hovel, which I learnt was a -gin-shop. There they pass the few hours allotted them above ground, and -drink, it is to be hoped, an oblivion of their subterraneous existence. -Piety as well as gin helps to fill up their leisure moments, and I was -told that Wesley, who came apostolising into Cornwall a few years ago, -preached on this very spot to above seven thousand followers. - -Since this period Methodism has made a very rapid progress, and has been -of no trifling service in diverting the attention of these sons of -darkness from then present condition to the glories of the life to come. -However, some people inform me their actual state is not so much to be -lamented, and that, notwithstanding their pale looks and tattered -raiment, they are far from being poor or unhealthy. Fortune often throws -a considerable sum into their laps when they least expect it, and many a -common miner has been known to gain a hundred pounds in the space of a -month or two. Like sailors in the first effusion of prize-money, they -have no notion of turning their good-luck to advantage; but squander the -fruits of their toil in the silliest species of extravagance. Their -wives are dressed out in tawdry silks, and flaunt away in ale-houses -between rows of obedient fiddlers. The money spent, down they sink again -into damps and darkness. - -Having passed about an hour in collecting minerals, stopping engines -with my finger, and performing all the functions of a diligent young man -desirous of information, I turned my back on smokes, flames, and -coal-holes, with great pleasure. - -Not above a mile-and-a-half from this black bustling scene, in a -sheltered valley, lies the mansion of Mr. Beauchamp, wrapped up in -shrubberies of laurel and laurustine. Copses of hazel and holly -terminate the prospect on almost every side, and in the midst of the -glen a broad clear stream reflects the impending vegetation. This -transparent water, after performing the part of a mirror before the -house, forms a succession of waterfalls which glitter between slopes of -the smoothest turf, sprinkled with daffodils: numerous flights of -widgeon and Muscovy ducks, were sprucing themselves on the edge of the -stream, and two grave swans seemed highly to approve of its woody -retired banks for the education of their progeny. - -Very glad was I to disport on its "margent green," after crushing -cinders at every step all the morning; had not the sun hid himself, and -the air grown chill, I might have fooled away three or four hours with -the swans and the widgeons, and lost my dinner. Upon my return home, I -found the wind as contrary as ever, and all thoughts of sailing -abandoned. - - - - -LETTER III. - - A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral - effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected - dreams. - - -Falmouth, March 8, 1787. - -What a lovely morning! how glassy the sea, how busy the fishing-boats, -and how fast asleep the wind in its old quarter! Towards evening, -however, it freshened, and I took a toss in a boat with Mr. Trefusis, -whose territories extend half round the bay. His green hanging downs -spotted with sheep, and intersected by rocky gullies, shaded by tall -straight oaks and ashes, form a romantic prospect, very much in the -style of Mount Edgcumbe. - -We drank tea at the capital of these dominions, an antiquated mansion, -which is placed in a hollow on the summit of a lofty hill, and contains -many ruinous halls and never-ending passages: they cannot, however, be -said to lead to nothing, like those celebrated by Gray in his Long -Story, for Mrs. Trefusis terminated the perspective. She is a native of -Lausanne, and was quite happy to see her countryman Verdeil. - -We should have very much enjoyed her conversation, but the moment tea -was over, the squire could not resist leading us round his improvements -in kennel, stable, and oxstall: though it was pitch-dark, and we were -obliged to be escorted by grooms and groomlings with candles and -lanterns; a very necessary precaution, as the winds blew not more -violently without the house than within. - -In the course of our peregrination through halls, pantries, and -antechambers, we passed a staircase with heavy walnut-railing, lined -from top to bottom with effigies of ancestors that looked quite -formidable by the horny glow of our lanterns; which illumination, dull -as it was, occasioned much alarm amongst a collection of animals, both -furred and feathered, the delight of Mr. Trefusis's existence. - -Every corner of his house contains some strange and stinking inhabitant; -one can hardly move without stumbling over a basket of puppies, or -rolling along a mealy tub, with ferrets in the bottom of it; rap went my -head against a wire cage, and behold a squirrel twirled out of its sleep -in sad confusion: a little further on, I was very near being the -destruction of some new-born dormice--their feeble squeak haunts my ears -at this moment! - -Beyond this nursery, a door opened and admitted us into a large saloon, -in the days of Mr. Trefusis's father very splendidly decorated, but at -present exhibiting nothing, save damp plastered walls, mouldering -floors, and cracked windows. A well-known perfume issuing from this -apartment, proclaimed the neighbourhood of those fragrant animals, which -you perfectly recollect were the joy of my infancy, and presently three -or four couple of spanking yellow rabbits made their appearance. A -racoon poked his head out of a coop, whilst an owl lifted up the gloom -of his countenance, and gave us his malediction. - -My nose having lost all relish for _rabbitish_ odours, took refuge in my -handkerchief; there did I keep it snug till it pleased our conductors to -light us through two or three closets, all of a flutter with Virginia -nightingales, goldfinches, and canary-birds, into the stable. Several -game-cocks fell a crowing with most triumphant shrillness upon our -approach; and a monkey--the image of poor Brandoin--expanded his jaws in -so woful a manner, that I grew melancholy, and paid the hunters not half -the attention they merited. - -At length we got into the open air again, made our bows and departed. -The evening was become serene and pleasant, the moon beamed brilliantly -on the sea; but the owls, who are never to be pleased, hooted most -ruefully. - -Good night: I expect to dream of _closed-up doors_,[12] and haunted -passages; rats, puppies, racoons, game-cocks, rabbits, and dormice. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the - compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. - - -Falmouth, March 10, 1787. - -I thought last night our thin pasteboard habitation would have been -blown into the sea, for never in my life did I hear such dreadful -blusterings. Perhaps the winds are celebrating the approach of the -equinox, or some high festival in olus's calendar, with which we poor -mortals are unacquainted. How tired I am of the language of the compass, -of wind shifting to this point and veering to the other; of gales -springing up, and breezes freshening; of rough seas, clear berths, ships -driving, and anchors lifting. Oh! that I was rooted like a tree, in some -sheltered corner of an inland valley, where I might never hear more of -saltwater or sailing. - -You cannot wonder at my becoming impatient, after eleven days' -captivity, nor at my wishing myself anywhere but where I am: I should -almost prefer a quarantine party at the new elegant Lazaretto off -Marseilles, to this smoky residence; at least, I might there learn some -curious particulars of the Levant, enjoy bright sunshine, and perfect -myself in Arabic. But what can a being of my turn do at Falmouth? I have -little taste for the explanation of fire-engines, Mr. Scott; the pursuit -of hares under the auspices of young Trefusis; or the gliding of -billiard-balls in the society of Barbadoes Creoles and packet-boat -captains. The Lord have mercy upon me! now, indeed, do I perform -penance. - -Our dinner yesterday went off tolerably well. We had _on_ the table a -savoury pig, right worthy of Otaheite, and some of the finest poultry I -ever tasted; and _round_ the table two or three brace of odd Cornish -gentlefolks, not deficient in humour and originality. - -About eight in the evening, six game-cocks were ushered into the -eating-room by two limber lads in scarlet jackets; and, after a flourish -of crowing, the noble birds set-to with surprising keenness. Tufts of -brilliant feathers soon flew about the apartment; but the carpet was -not stained with the blood of the combatants: for, to do Trefusis -justice, he has a generous heart, and takes no pleasure in cruelty. The -cocks were unarmed, had their spurs cut short, and may live to fight -fifty such harmless battles. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Regrets produced by Contrasts. - - -Falmouth, March 11, 1787. - -What a fool was I to leave my beloved retirement at Evian! Instead of -viewing innumerable transparent rills falling over the amber-coloured -rocks of Melierie, I am chained down to contemplate an oozy beach, -deserted by the sea, and becrawled with worms tracking their way in the -slime that harbours them. Instead of the cheerful crackling of a -wood-fire in the old baron's great hall, I hear the bellowing of winds -in narrow chimneys. You must allow the aromatic fragrance of fir-cones, -such heaps of which I used to burn in Savoy, is greatly preferable to -the exhalations of Welsh coal, and that to a person wrapped up in -musical devotion, high mass must be a good deal superior to the hummings -and hawings of a Quaker assembly. Colett swears he had rather be -boarded at the Inquisition than remain at the mercy of the confounded -keeper of this hotel, the worst and the dearest in Christendom. We are -all tired to death, and know not what to do with ourselves. - -As I look upon ennui to be very catching, I shall break off before I -give you a share of it. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant - vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of the voyage. - - -Falmouth, March 13, 1787. - -No prospect of launching this day upon the ocean. Every breeze is -subsided, and a profound calm established. I walk up and down the path -which leads to Pen-dennis Castle with folded arms, in a most listless -desponding mood. Vast brakes of furze, much stouter and loftier than any -with which I am acquainted, scent the air with the perfume of apricots. -Primroses, violets, and fresh herbs innumerable expand on every bank. -Larks, poised in the soft blue sky, warble delightfully. The sea, far -and wide, is covered with fishing-boats; and such a stillness prevails, -that I hear the voices of the fishermen. - -You will be rambling in sheltered alleys, whilst winds and currents -drive me furiously along craggy shores, under the scowl of a -tempestuous sky. You will be angling for perch, whilst sharks are -whetting their teeth at me. Methinks I hear the voracious gluttons -disputing the first snap, and pointing upwards their cold slimy noses. -Out upon them! I have no desire to invade their element, or (using -poetical language) to plough those plains of waves which brings them -rich harvests of carcasses, and had much rather cling fast to the green -banks of Pen-dennis. I even prefer mining to sailing; and of the two, -had rather be swallowed up by the earth than the ocean. - -I wish some "swart fairy of the mine" would snatch me to her -concealments. Rather than pass a month in the qualms of sea-sickness, I -would consent to live three by candlelight, in the deepest den you could -discover, stuck close to a foul midnight hag as mouldy as a rotten -apple. - -This, you will tell me, is being very energetic in my aversions, that I -allow; but such, you know, is my trim, and I cannot help it. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths - in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the - Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petticoats.--Force of - education.--Royalty without power.--Return from the Palace. - - -30th May, 1787. - -Horne persuaded me much against my will to accompany him in his -Portuguese chaise to Pagliavam, the residence of John the Fifth's -bastards, instead of following my usual track along the sea-shore. The -roads to this stately garden are abominable, and more infested by -beggars, dogs, flies, and musquitoes, than any I am acquainted with. The -villa itself, which belongs to the Marquis of Lourical, is placed in a -hollow, and the tufted groves which surround it admit not a breath of -air; so I was half suffocated the moment I entered their shade. - -A great flat space before the garden-front of the villa is laid out in -dismal labyrinths of clipped myrtle, with lofty pyramids rising from -them, in the style of that vile Dutch maze planted by King William at -Kensington, and rooted up some years ago by King George the Third. -Beyond this puzzling ground are several long alleys of stiff dark -verdure, called _ruas_, _i. e._ literally streets, with great propriety, -being more close, more formal, and not less dusty than High-Holborn. I -deviated from them into plats of well-watered vegetables and aromatic -herbs, enclosed by neat fences of cane, covered with an embroidery of -the freshest and most perfect roses, quite free from insects and -cankers, worthy to have strewn the couches and graced the bosom of Lais, -Aspasia, or Lady----. You know how warmly every mortal of taste delights -in these lovely flowers; how frequently, and in what harmonious numbers, -Ariosto has celebrated them. Has not Lady ---- a whole apartment painted -over with roses? Does she not fill her bath with their leaves, and deck -her idols with garlands of no other flowers? and is she not quite in the -right of it? - -Whilst I was poetically engaged with the roses, Horne entered into -conversation with a sort of Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse to -their bastard highnesses. He had a snug well-powdered wig, a bright -silver-hilted sword, a crimson full-dress suit, and a gently bulging -paunch. With one hand in his bosom and the other in the act of taking -snuff, he harangued emphatically upon the holiness, temperance, and -chastity of his august masters, who live sequestered from the world in -dingy silent state, abhor profane company, and never cast a look upon -females. - -Being curious to see the abode of these semi-royal sober personages, I -entered the palace. Not an insect stirred, not a whisper was audible. -The principal apartments consist in a suite of lofty-coved saloons, -nobly proportioned, and uniformly hung with damask of the deepest -crimson. The upper end of each room is doubly shaded by a ponderous -canopy of cut velvet. To the right and left appear rows of huge -elbow-chairs of the same materials. No glasses, no pictures, no gilding, -no decoration, but heavy drapery; even the tables are concealed by cut -velvet flounces, in the style of those with which our dowagers used -formerly to array their toilets. The very sight of such close tables is -enough to make one perspire; and I cannot imagine what demon prompted -the Portuguese to invent such a fusty fashion. - -This taste for putting commodes and tables into petticoats is pretty -general here, at least in royal apartments. At Queluz, not a card or -dining-table has escaped; and many an old court-dress, I should suspect, -has been cut up to furnish these accoutrements, which are of all -colours, plain and flowered, pastorally sprigged or gorgeously -embroidered. Not so at Pagliavam. Crimson alone prevails, and casts its -royal gloom unrivalled on every object. Stuck fast to the wall, between -two of the aforementioned tables, are two fauteuils for their -highnesses; and opposite, a rank of chairs for those reverend fathers in -God who from time to time are honoured with admittance. - -How mighty is the force of Education!--What pains it must require on the -part of nurses, equerries, and chamberlains, to stifle every lively and -generous sensation in the princelings they educate,--to break a human -being into the habits of impotent royalty! Dignity without command is -one of the heaviest of burthens. A sovereign may employ himself; he has -the choice of good or evil; but princes, like those of Pagliavam, -without power or influence, who have nothing to feed on but imaginary -greatness, must yawn their souls out, and become in process of time as -formal and inanimate as the pyramids of stunted myrtle in their gardens. -Happier were those babies King John did not think proper to recognize, -and they are not few in number, for that pious monarch, - - "Wide as his command, - "Scattered his Maker's image through the land." - -They, perhaps, whilst their brothers are gaping under rusty canopies, -tinkle their guitars in careless moonlight rambles, wriggle in gay -fandangos, or enjoy sound sleep, rural fare, and merriment, in the -character of jolly village curates. - -I was glad to get out of the palace; its stillness and gloom depressed -my spirits, and a confined atmosphere, impregnated with the smell of -burnt lavender, almost overcame me. I am just returned gasping for air. -No wonder; one might as well be in bed with a warming-pan as in a -Portuguese cariole with the portly Horne, who carries a noble -protuberance, set off in this season with a satin waistcoat richly -spangled. - -I must go to Cintra, or I shall expire! - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic - Gardens.--Aafatas.--Description of the Gardens and Terraces. - - -May 31, 1787. - -It is in vain I call upon clouds to cover me and fogs to wrap me up. You -can form no adequate idea of the continual glare of this renowned -climate. Lisbon is the place in the world best calculated to make one -cry out - - "Hide me from day's garish eye;" - -but where to hide is not so easy. Here are no thickets of pine as in the -classic Italian villas, none of those quivering poplars and leafy -chestnuts which cover the plains of Lombardy. The groves in the -immediate environs of this capital are composed of--with, alas! but few -exceptions--dwarfish orange-trees and cinder-coloured olives. Under -their branches repose neither shepherds nor shepherdesses, but -whitening bones, scraps of leather, broken pantiles, and passengers not -unfrequently attended by monkeys, who, I have been told, are let out for -the purpose of picking up a livelihood. Those who cannot afford this -apish luxury, have their bushy poles untenanted by affectionate -relations, for yesterday just under my window I saw two blessed babies -rendering this good office to their aged parent. - -I had determined not to have stirred beyond the shade of my awning; -however, towards eve, the extreme fervour of the sun being a little -abated, old Horne (who has yet a colt's-tooth) prevailed upon me to walk -in the Botanic Gardens, where not unfrequently are to be found certain -youthful animals of the female gender called Aafatas, in Portuguese; a -species between a bedchamber woman and a maid of honour. The Queen has -kindly taken the ugliest with her to the Caldas: those who remain have -large black eyes sparkling with the true spirit of adventure, an -exuberant flow of dark hair, and pouting lips of the colour and size of -full-blown roses. - -All this, you will tell me, does not compose a perfect beauty. I never -meant to convey such a notion: I only wish you to understand that the -nymphs we have just quitted are the flowers of the Queen's flock, and -that she has, at least, four or five dozen more in attendance upon her -sacred person, with larger mouths, smaller eyes, and swarthier -complexions. - -Not being in sufficient spirits to flourish away in Portuguese, my -conversation was chiefly addressed to a lovely blue-eyed Irish girl of -fifteen or sixteen, lately married to an officer of her Majesty's -customs. Spouse goes a pilgrimaging to Nossa Senhora do Cabo--little -madam whisks about the Botanic Garden with the ladies of the palace and -a troop of sopranos, who teach her to warble and speak Italian. She is -well worth teaching everything in their power. Her hair of the loveliest -auburn, her straight Grecian eyebrows and fair complexion, form a -striking contrast to the gipsy-coloured skins and jetty tresses of her -companions. She looked like a visionary being skimming along the alleys, -and leaving the pot-bellied sopranos and dowdy Aafatas far behind, -wondering at her agility. - -The garden is pleasant enough, situated upon an eminence, planted with -light flowering trees clustered with blossoms. Above their topmost -branches rises a broad majestic terrace, with marble balustrades of -shining whiteness and strange Oriental pattern. They design -indifferently in this country, but execute with great neatness and -precision. I never saw balustrades better hewn or chiseled than those -bordering the steps which lead up to the grand terrace. Its ample -surface is laid out in oblong compartments of marble, containing no very -great variety of heliotropes, aloes, geraniums, china-roses, and the -commonest plants of our green-houses. Such ponderous divisions have a -dismal effect; they reminded one of a place of interment, and it struck -me as if the deceased inhabitants of the adjoining palace were sprouting -up in the shape of prickly-pears, Indian-figs, gaudy holly-oaks, and -peppery capsicums. - -The terrace is about fifteen hundred paces in length. Three copious -fountains give it an air of coolness, much increased by the waving of -tall acacias, exposed by their lofty situation to every breeze which -blows from the entrance of the Tagus, whose lovely azure appears to -great advantage between the quivering foliage. - -The Irish girl and your faithful correspondent coursed each other like -children along the terrace, and when tired reposed under a group of -gigantic Brazilian aloes by one of the fountains. The swarthy party -detached its principal guardian, a gawky young priest, to observe all -the wanderings and riposos of us white people. - -It was late, and the sun had set several minutes before I took my -departure. Black eyes and blue eyes seem horridly jealous of each other. -I fear my youthful and lively companion will suffer for having more -alertness than the Aafatas: she will be pinched, if I am not mistaken, -as the party return through the dark and intricate passages which join -the palace of the Ajuda to the gardens. Sad thought, the leaving such a -fair little being in the hands of fiery, despotic females, so greatly -her inferiors in complexion and delicacy. - -They will take especial care, I warrant them, to fill the husband's head -with suspicions less charitable than those inspired by Nossa Senhora do -Cabo. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of - Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its - much revered Masters.--Collection of Rarities.--The Viceroy of - Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A Night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary - Procession.--Blessings of Patriarchal Government. - - -3 June, 1787. - -We went by special invitation to the royal Convent of the Necessidades, -belonging to the Oratorians, to see the ceremony of consecrating a -father of that order Bishop of Algarve, and were placed fronting the -altar in a gallery crowded with important personages in shining raiment, -the relations of the new prelate. The floor being spread with rich -Persian carpets and velvet cushions, it was pretty good kneeling; but, -notwithstanding this comfortable accommodation, I thought the ceremony -would never finish. There was a mighty glitter of crosses, censers, -mitres, and crosiers, continually in motion, as several bishops -assisted in all their pomp. - -The music, which was extremely simple and pathetic, appeared to affect -the grandees in my neighbourhood very profoundly, for they put on woful -contrite countenances, thumped their breasts, and seemed to think -themselves, as most of them are, miserable sinners. Feeling oppressed by -the heat and the sermon, I made my retreat slyly and silently from the -splendid gallery, and passed through some narrow corridors, as warm as -flues, into the garden. - -But this was only exchanging one scene of formality and closeness for -another. I panted after air, and to obtain that blessing escaped through -a little narrow door into the wild free valley of Alcantara. Here all -was solitude and humming of bees, and fresh gales blowing from the -entrance of the Tagus over the tufted tops of orange gardens. The -refreshing sound of water-wheels seemed to give me new life. - -I set the sun at defiance, and advanced towards that part of the valley -across which stretches the enormous aqueduct you have heard so often -mentioned as the most colossal edifice of its kind in Europe. It has -only one row of pointed openings, and the principal arch, which crosses -a rapid brook, measures above two hundred and fifty feet in height. The -Pont de Garde and Caserta have several rows of arches one above the -other, which, by dividing the attention, take off from the size of the -whole. There is a vastness in this single range that strikes with -astonishment. I sat down on a fragment of rock, under the great arch, -and looked up to the vaulted stone-work so high above me with a -sensation of awe not unallied to fear; as if the building I gazed upon -was the performance of some immeasurable being endued with gigantic -strength, who might perhaps take a fancy to saunter about his works this -morning, and, in mere awkwardness, crush me to atoms. - -Hard by the spot where I sat are several inclosures filled with canes, -eleven or twelve feet high: their fresh green leaves, agitated by the -feeblest wind, form a perpetual murmur. I am fond of this rustling, and -suffered myself to be lulled by it into a state of very necessary repose -after the fatigues of scrambling over crags and precipices. - -As soon as I returned from my walk, Horne took me to dine with him, and -afterwards to the Marialva Palace to pay the Grand Prior a visit. The -court-yard, filled with shabby two-wheeled chaises, put me in mind of -the entrance of a French post-house; a recollection not weakened by the -sight of several ample heaps of manure, between which we made the best -of our way up the great staircase, and had near tumbled over a swingeing -sow and her numerous progeny, which escaped from under our legs with -bitter squeakings. - -This hubbub announced our arrival, so out came the Grand Prior, his -nephew, the old Abade, and a troop of domestics. All great Portuguese -families are infested with herds of these, in general, ill-favoured -dependants; and none more than the Marialvas, who dole out every day -three hundred portions, at least, of rice and other eatables to as many -greedy devourers. - -The Grand Prior had shed his pontifical garments and did the honours of -the house, and conducted us with much agility all over the apartments, -and through the _mange_, where the old Marquis, his brother, though at -a very advanced age, displays feats of the most consummate -horsemanship. He seems to have a decided taste for clocks, compasses, -and time-keepers. I counted no less than ten in his bedchamber; four or -five in full swing, making a loud hissing: they were chiming and -striking away (for it was exactly six) when I followed my conductor up -and down half-a-dozen staircases into a saloon hung with rusty damask. - -A table in the centre of this antiquated apartment was covered with -rarities brought forth for our inspection; curious shell-work, ivory -crucifixes, models of ships, housings embroidered with feathers, and the -Lord knows what besides, stinking of camphor enough to knock one down. - -Whilst we were staring with all our eyes and holding our handkerchiefs -to our noses, the Count of V----, Viceroy of Algarve, made his -appearance, in grand pea-green and pink and silver gala, straddling and -making wry faces as if some disagreeable accident had befallen him. He -was, however, in a most gracious mood, and received our eulogiums upon -his relation, the new bishop, with much complacency. Our conversation -was limpingly carried on in a great variety of broken languages. -Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, French, and English, had each their turn -in rapid succession. The subject of all this polyglottery was the -glories and piety of John the Fifth, regret for the extinction of the -Jesuits, and the reverse for the death of Pombal, whose memory he holds -in something not distantly removed from execration. This flow of -eloquence was accompanied by the strangest, most buffoonical grimaces -and slobberings I ever beheld, for the Viceroy having a perennial -moistness of mouth, drivels at every syllable. - -One must not, however, decide too hastily upon outward appearances. This -slobbering, canting personage, is a distinguished statesman and good -officer, pre-eminent amongst the few who have seen service and given -proofs of prowess and capacity. - -To escape the long-winded narrations which were pouring warm into my -ear, I took refuge near a harpsichord, where Policarpio, one of the -first tenors in the Queen's chapel, was singing and accompanying -himself. The curtains of the door of an adjoining dark apartment being -half drawn, gave me a transient glimpse of Donna Henriquetta de L----, -Don Pedro's sister, advancing one moment and retiring the next, eager to -approach and examine us exotic beings, but not venturing to enter the -saloon during her mother's absence. She appeared to me a most -interesting girl, with eyes full of bewitching languor;--but of what do -I talk? I only saw her pale and evanescent, as one fancies one sees -objects in a dream. A group of lovely children (her sisters, I believe) -sat at her feet upon the ground, resembling genii partially concealed by -folds of drapery in some grand allegorical picture by Rubens or Paul -Veronese. - -Night approaching, lights glimmered on the turrets, terraces, and every -part of the strange huddle of buildings of which this morisco-looking -palace is composed; half the family were engaged in reciting the -litanies of saints, the other in freaks and frolics, perhaps of no very -edifying nature: the monotonous staccato of the guitar, accompanied by -the low soothing murmur of female voices singing modinhas, formed -altogether a strange though not unpleasant combination of sounds. - -I was listening to them with avidity, when a glare of flambeaus, and -the noise of a splashing and dashing of water, called us out upon the -verandas, in time to witness a procession scarcely equalled since the -days of Noah. I doubt whether his ark contained a more heterogeneous -collection of animals than issued from a scalera with fifty oars, which -had just landed the old Marquis of M. and his son Don Jos, attended by -a swarm of musicians, poets, bullfighters, grooms, monks, dwarfs, and -children of both sexes, fantastically dressed. - -The whole party, it seems, were returned from a pilgrimage to some -saint's nest or other on the opposite shore of the Tagus. First jumped -out a hump-backed dwarf, blowing a little squeaking trumpet three or -four inches long; then a pair of led captains, apparently commanded by a -strange, old, swaggering fellow in a showy uniform, who, I was told, had -acted the part of a sort of brigadier-general in some sort of an island. -Had it been Barataria, Sancho would soon have sent him about his -business, for, if we believe the scandalous chronicle of Lisbon, a more -impudent buffoon, parasite, and pilferer seldom existed. - -Close at his heels stalked a savage-looking monk, as tall as Samson, -and two Capuchin friars, heavily laden, but with what sort of provision -I am ignorant; next came a very slim and sallow-faced apothecary, in -deep sables, completely answering in gait and costume the figure one -fancies to one's self of Senhor Apuntador, in Gil Blas, followed by a -half-crazed improvisatore, spouting verses at us as he passed under the -balustrades against which we were leaning. - -He was hardly out of hearing before a confused rabble of watermen and -servants with bird-cages, lanterns, baskets of fruit, and chaplets of -flowers, came gamboling along to the great delight of a bevy of -children; who, to look more like the inhabitants of Heaven than even -Nature designed, had light fluttering wings attached to their -rose-coloured shoulders. Some of these little theatrical angels were -extremely beautiful, and had their hair most coquettishly arranged in -ringlets. - -The old Marquis is doatingly fond of them; night and day they remain -with him, imparting all the advantages that can possibly be derived from -fresh and innocent breath to a declining constitution. The patriarch of -the Marialvas has followed this regimen many years, and also some -others which are scarcely credible. Having a more than Roman facility of -swallowing an immense profusion of dainties, and making room continually -for a fresh supply, he dines alone every day between two silver canteens -of extraordinary magnitude. Nobody in England would believe me if I -detailed the enormous repast I saw spread out for him; but let your -imagination loose upon all that was ever conceived in the way of -gormandizing, and it will not in this case exceed the reality. - -As soon as the contents, animal and vegetable, of the principal scalera, -and three or four other barges in its train, had been deposited in their -respective holes, corners, and roosting-places, I received an invitation -from the old Marquis to partake of a collation in his apartment. Not -less, I am certain, than fifty servants were in waiting, and exclusive -of half-a-dozen wax-torches, which were borne in state before us, above -a hundred tapers of different sizes were lighted up in the range of -rooms, intermingled with silver braziers and cassolettes diffusing a -very pleasant perfume. I found the master of all this magnificence most -courteous, affable, and engaging. There is an urbanity and good-humour -in his looks, gestures, and tone of voice, that prepossesses -instantaneously in his favour, and justifies the universal popularity he -enjoys, and the affectionate name of Father, by which the Queen and -Royal Family often address him. All the favours of the crown have been -heaped upon him by the present and preceding sovereigns, a tide of -prosperity uninterrupted even during the grand vizariat of Pombal. "Act -as you judge wisest with the rest of my nobility," used to say the King -Don Joseph to this redoubted minister; "but beware how you interfere -with the Marquis of Marialva." - -In consequence of this decided predilection, the Marialva Palace became -in many cases a sort of rallying point, an asylum for the oppressed; and -its master, in more than one instance, a shield against the thunderbolts -of a too powerful minister. The recollections of these times seem still -to be kept alive; for the heart-felt respect, the filial adoration, I -saw paid the old Marquis, was indeed most remarkable; his slightest -glances were obeyed, and the person on whom they fell seemed gratified -and animated; his sons, the Marquis of Tancos and Don Jos de Meneses, -never approached to offer him anything without bending the knee; and the -Conde de Villaverde, the heir of the great house of Anjeja, as well as -the Viceroy of Algarve, stood in the circle which was formed around him, -receiving a kind or gracious word with the same thankful earnestness as -courtiers who hang upon the smiles and favour of their sovereign. I -shall long remember the grateful sensations with which this scene of -reciprocal kindness filled me; it appeared an interchange of amiable -sentiments; beneficence diffused without guile or affectation, and -protection received without sullen or abject servility. - -How preferable is patriarchal government of this nature to the cold -theories pedantic sophists would establish, and which, should success -attend their selfish atheistical ravings, bid fair to undermine the best -and surest props of society! When parents cease to be honoured by their -children, and the feelings of grateful subordination in those of -helpless age or condition are unknown, kings will soon cease to reign, -and republics to be governed by the councils of experience; anarchy, -rapine, and massacre will walk the earth, and the abode of dmons be -transferred from hell to our unfortunate planet. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the - streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the Sacrament - in awful state.--Gorgeous Procession.--Bewildering confusion of - sounds. - - -7th June. - -A most sonorous peal of bells, an alarming rattle of drums, and a -piercing flourish of trumpets, roused me at daybreak. You are too -piously disposed to be ignorant that this day is the festival of the -Corpo de Deos. I had half a mind to have stayed at home, turning over a -curious collection of Portuguese chronicles the Prior of Avis has just -sent to me; but I was told such wonders of the expected procession that -I could not refuse giving myself a little trouble in order to witness -them. - -Everybody was gone before I set out, and the streets of the suburb I -inhabit, as well as those in the city through which I passed in my way -to the patriarchal cathedral, were entirely deserted. A pestilence -seemed to have swept the Great Square and the busy environs of the -Exchange and India House; for even vagrants, scavengers, and beggars, in -the last state of decrepitude, had all hobbled away to the scene of -action. A few miserable curs sniffing at offals alone remained in the -deserted streets, and I saw no human being at any of the windows, except -half-a-dozen scabby children blubbering at being kept at home. - -The murmur of the crowds, assembled round the _patriarchale_, reached us -a long while before we got into the midst of them, for we advanced with -difficulty between rows of soldiers drawn up in battle array. Upon -turning a dark angle, overshadowed by the high buildings of the seminary -adjoining the patriarchale, we discovered houses, shops, and palaces, -all metamorphosed into tents, and hung from top to bottom with red -damask, tapestry, satin coverlids, and fringed counterpanes glittering -with gold. I thought myself in the midst of the Mogul's encampment, so -pompously described by Bernier. - -The front of the Great Church in particular was most magnificently -curtained; it rises from a vast flight of steps, which were covered -to-day with the yeomen of the Queen's guard in their rich -party-coloured velvet dresses, and a multitude of priests bearing a -gorgeous variety of painted and silken banners; flocks of sallow monks, -white, brown, and black, kept pouring in continually, like turkeys -driving to market. - -This part of the holy display lasting a tiresome while, I grew weary, -and left the balcony, where we were placed most advantageously, and got -into the church. High mass was performing with awful pomp, incense -ascending in clouds, and the light of innumerable tapers blazing on the -diamonds of the ostensory, just elevated by the patriarch with trembling -devout hands to receive the mysterious wafer. - -Before the close of the ceremony, I regained my window, to have a full -view of the coming forth of the Sacrament. All was expectation and -silence in the people. The guards had ranged them on each side of the -steps before the entrance of the church. At length a shower of aromatic -herbs and flowers announced the approach of the patriarch, bearing the -host under a regal canopy, surrounded by grandees, and preceded by a -long train of mitred figures, their hands joined in prayer, their -scarlet and purple vestments sweeping the ground, their attendants -bearing croziers, crosses, and other insignia of pontifical grandeur. - -The procession slowly descending the flights of stairs to the sound of -choirs and the distant thunder of artillery, lost itself in a winding -street decorated with embroidered hangings, and left me with my senses -in a whirl, and my eyes dazzled, as if awakened from a vision of -celestial splendour.... My head swims at this moment, and my ears tingle -with a confusion of sounds, bells, voices, and the echoes of cannon, -prolonged by mountains and wafted over waters. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian - wife.--Magnificent repast.--A tragic damsel. - - -11th June, 1787. - -To-day we were engaged to dine in the country at a villa belonging to a -gentleman, whose volley of names, when pronounced with the true -Portuguese twang, sounds like an expectoration--Jos Street-Arriaga-Brum -da Silveira. Our hospitable host is of Irish extraction, boasts a -stature of six feet, proportionable breadth, a ruddy countenance, -herculean legs, and all the exterior attributes, at least, of that -enterprising race, who often have the luck of marrying great fortunes. -About a year or two ago he bore off a wealthy Brazilian heiress, and is -now master of a large estate and a fubsical, squat wife, with a head not -unlike that of Holofernes in old tapestry, and shoulders that act the -part of a platter with rather too much exactitude. Poor soul! to be -sure, she is neither a Venus nor a Hebe, has a rough lip, and a manly -voice, and I fear is somewhat inclined to be dropsical; but her smiles -are frequent and fondling, and she cleaves to her husband with great -perseverance. - -He is an odd character, will accept of no employment, civil or military, -and affects a bullying frankness, that I should think must displease -very much in this country, where independence either in fortune or -sentiment is a crime seldom if ever tolerated. - -Mr. S---- likes a display, and the repast he gave us was magnificent; -sixty dishes at least, eight smoking roasts, and every ragout, French, -English, and Portuguese, that could be thought of. The dessert appeared -like the model of a fortification. The principal cake-tower measured, I -dare say, three feet perpendicular in height. The company was not equal -either in number or consequence to the splendour of the entertainment. - -Had not Miss Sill and Bezerra been luckily in my neighbourhood, I should -have perished with _ennui_. One stately damsel, with portentous -eyebrows, and looks that reproached the male part of the assembly with -inattention, was the only lady of the palace Mr. S---- had invited. - -I expected to have met the whole troop of my Botanic Garden -acquaintance, and to have escorted them about the vineyards and -citron-orchards which surround this villa; but, alas! I was not destined -to any such amusing excursion. The tragic damsel, who I am told has been -unhappy in her tender attachments, took my arm, and never quitted it -during a long walk through Mr. S----'s ample possessions. We conversed -in Italian, and paid the birds that were singing, and the rills that -were murmuring, many fine compliments in a sort of prose run mad, -borrowed from operas and serenatas, the Aminto of Tasso, and the Adone -of Marini. - -The sun was just diffusing his last rays over the distant rocks of -Cintra, the air balsamic, and the paths amongst the vines springing with -fresh herbage and a thousand flowers revived by last night's rain. -Giving up the narrow tract which leads through these rural regions to -the signora, I stalked by her side in a furrow well garnished with -nettles, acanthus, and dwarf aloes, stinging and scratching myself at -every step. This penance, and the disappointment I was feeling most -acutely, put me not a little out of humour; I regretted so delicious an -evening should pass away in such forlorn company, and lacerating my legs -to so little purpose. How should I have enjoyed rambling with the young -Irish girl about these pleasant clover paths, between festoons of -luxuriant leaves and tendrils, not fastened to stiff poles and stumpy -stakes as in France and Switzerland, but climbing up light canes eight -or ten feet in height! - -Pinioned as I was, you may imagine I felt no inclination to prolong a -walk which already had been prolonged unconscionably. I escaped tea and -playing at voltarete, made a solemn bow to the solemn damsel, and got -home before it was quite dark. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring - Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of - exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the - Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. - - -June 12th, 1787. - -We passed the day quite _en famille_ at Belem with a whole legion of -Marialvas. Some reverend fathers, of I know not what community, had sent -them immense messes of soup, very thick, slab, and oily; a portion -which, it seems, the faithful are accustomed to swallow on the eve of -St. Anthony's festival. - -As soon as I decently could, after a collation which was served under an -awning stretched over one of the terraces, I stole out of the circle of -lords, ladies, dwarfs, monks, buffoons, bullies, and almoners, to visit -the neighbouring monastery. I ascended the great stairs, constructed at -the expense of the Infanta Catherine, King Charles the Second's -dowager, and after walking in the cloisters of Emanuel, looked into the -library, which is far from being in the cleanest or best ordered -condition. The spacious and lofty cloisters present a striking spread of -arches, which, though not in the purest style, attract the eye by their -delicately-carved arabesque ornament, and the warm reddish hue of the -marble. The corridor, into which open an almost endless range of cells, -is full five hundred feet in length. Each window has a commodious -resting-place, where the monks loll at their ease and enjoy the view of -the river. - -In a little dark treasury communicating by winding-stairs with that part -of the edifice tradition points out as the habitation of King Emanuel, -when at certain holy seasons he retired within these precincts, I was -shown by candlelight some extremely curious plate, particularly a -custodium, made in the year 1506, of the pure gold of Quiloa. Nothing -can be more beautiful as a specimen of elaborate gothic sculpture, than -this complicated enamelled mass of flying buttresses and fretted -pinnacles, with the twelve Apostles in their niches, under canopies -formed of ten thousand wreaths and ramifications. - -From this gloomy recess, I was conducted to the church, one of the -largest in Portugal, vast, solemn, and fantastic, like the interior of -the Temple of Jerusalem, as I have seen it figured in some old German -Bibles. There was little, however, in the altars or monuments worth any -very minute investigation. - -It fell dark before I went out at the great porch, and found the wide -space before it beginning to catch a vivid gleam from a line of bonfires -on the edge of the Tagus. I could hardly reach my carriage without being -singed by squibs and crackers, and wished myself out the moment I got -into it, a rocket having shot up just under the noses of my mules and -scared them terribly. - -Unless St. Anthony lulls me asleep by a miracle, I must expect no rest -to-night, there is such a whizzing of fireworks, blazing of bonfires and -flourishing of French horns in honour of to-morrow, the five hundred and -fifty-fifth anniversary of that memorable day, when the Holy One of -Lisbon passed by a soft transition to the joys of Paradise. I saw his -image at the door of almost every house and even hovel of this populous -capital, placed on an altar, and decked with a profusion of wax-lights -and flowers. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic - Sermon.--The good Prior of Avis.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent - of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking effigy of the - Saviour.--A young and melancholy Carthusian.--The Cemetery. - - -June 13th, 1787. - -I slept better than I expected: the Saint was propitious, and during the -night cooled the ardour of his votaries and the flames of their bonfires -by a vernal shower, which pattered agreeably this morning amongst the -vineleaves of my garden. The clouds dispersed about eight o'clock, and -at nine, just as I ascended the steps of the new church built over the -identical house where St. Anthony was born, the sun shone out in all its -splendour. - -I cannot say this edifice recalled to my mind the magnificent sanctuary -of Padua, which five years ago on this very day impressed my imagination -so forcibly. Here are no constellations of golden lamps depending by -glittering chains from a mysterious vaulted ceiling, no arcades of -alabaster, no sculptured marbles. The church is supported by two rows of -pillars neatly carved in stone, but wretchedly proportioned. Over the -high altar, where stands the revered image in the midst of a bright -illumination, was stretched a canopy of flowered velvet. This drapery, -richly fringed and tasseled, marks out the spot formerly occupied by the -chamber of the saint, and receives an amber-light from a row of tall -casement windows, the woodwork gleaming with burnished gold. - -A great many broad English faces burst forth from amongst the crowd of -profane vulgar at the portal of the church, and all their eyes were -directed to their enthusiastic countryman, but he was not to be stared -out of a decent countenance. - -The ceremony was extremely pompous. A prelate of the first rank, with a -considerable detachment of priests from the royal chapel, officiated to -the sounds of lively jigs and ranting minuets, better calculated to set -a parcel of water-drinkers a dancing in a pump-room, than to direct the -movements of a pontiff and his assistants. - -After much indifferent music, vocal and instrumental, performed full -gallop in the most rapid allegro, Fr Joa Jacinto, a famous preacher, -mounted the pulpit, lifted up hands and eyes, and poured forth a torrent -of sounding phrases in honour of St. Anthony. What would I not give for -such a voice?--it would almost have reached from Dan unto Beersheba! - -The Father has undoubtedly great powers of elocution, and none of that -canting, nasal whine so common in the delivery of monkish sermons. He -treated kings, tetrarchs, and conquerors, the heroes and sages of -antiquity, with ineffable contempt; reduced their palaces and -fortifications to dust, their armies to pismires, their imperial -vestments to cobwebs, and impressed all his audience, except the -heretical squinters at the door, with the most thorough conviction of -St. Anthony's superiority over these objects of an erring and impious -admiration. - -"Happy," exclaimed the preacher, "were those gothic ages, falsely called -ages of barbarism and ignorance, when the hearts of men, uncorrupted by -the delusive beverage of philosophy, were open to the words of truth -falling like honey from the mouths of saints and confessors, such words -as distilled from the lips of Anthony, yet a suckling hanging at the -breast in this very spot. It was here the spirit of the Most High -descended upon him, here that he conceived the sublime intention of -penetrating into the most turbulent parts of Europe, setting the -inclemency of seasons and the malice of men at defiance, and sprinkling -amongst lawless nations the seeds of grace and repentance. There, my -brethren, is the door out of which he issued. Do you not see him in the -habit of a Menino de Coro, smiling with all the graces of innocence, and -dispensing with his infant hands to a group of squalid children the -portion of nourishment he has just received from his mother? - -"But Anthony, from the first dawn of his existence, lived for others, -and not for himself: he forewent even the luxury of meditation, and -instead of retiring into a peaceful cell, rushed into the world, -helpless and unprotected, lifting high the banner of the Cross amidst -perils and uproar, appeasing wars, settling differences both public and -domestic, exhorting at the risk of his life ruffians and plunderers to -make restitution, and armed misers, guarding their coffers with bloody -swords, to open their hearts and their hands to the distresses of the -widow and the fatherless. - -"Anthony ever sighed after the crown of martyrdom, and had long -entertained an ardent desire of passing over into Morocco, and exposing -himself to the fury of its bigoted and cruel sovereign; but the commands -of his superior retain him on the point of embarkation; he makes a -sacrifice of even this most laudable and glorious ambition; he traverses -Spain, repairs to Assisi, embraces the rigid order of the great St. -Francis, and continues to his last hour administering consolation to the -dejected, fortifying their hopes of heaven, and confirming the faith of -such as were wavering or deluded by a succession of prodigies. The dead -are raised, the sick are healed, the sea is calmed by a glance of St -Anthony; even the lowest ranks of the creation are attracted by -eloquence more than human, and give marks of sensibility. Fish swim in -shoals to hear the word of the Lord; and to convince the obdurate and -those accursed whose hearts the false reasoning of the world had -hardened, mules and animals the most perversely obstinate humble -themselves to the earth when Anthony holds forth the Sacrament, and -acknowledge the presence of the Divinity." - -The sermon ended, fiddling began anew with redoubled vigour, and I, -disgusted with such unseasonable levity, retired home in dudgeon. This -little cloud of peevishness was soon dissipated by the cheering presence -of the good Prior of Avis, than whom there exists not, perhaps, in this -world a more benign, evangelical character; one who gives glory to God -with less ostentation, or bears a more unaffected goodwill towards men. -This excellent prelate had been passing his morning, not in attending -pompous ceremonies, but in consoling the sick and relieving the -indigent; climbing up to their miserable chambers to afford assistance -in the name of the saint whose festival was celebrating, and whose fame, -for every charitable beneficent act, had been handed down by the -inhabitants of Lisbon from father to child, through a long series of -generations. - -Our discourse was not of a nature to incline me to relish pomps and -vanities. I waved seeing the procession which was expected to pass -through the principal streets of the city, and, accompanied by my -reverend friend, enjoyed the serenity of the evening on the shore of -Belem. We stopped as we passed by the Marialva palace, and took up Don -Pedro and his nursing father, the old Abade, who proposed a visit to the -Carthusian convent of Cachiez. - -In about half an hour we were set down before the church, which fronts -the royal gardens, and were ushered into a solemn, silent quadrangle. -Several spectres of the order were gliding about the cloisters, which -branch off from this court. In the middle is a marble fountain, shaded -by pyramids of clipped box; around are seven or eight small chapels; one -of which contains a coloured image of the Saviour in the last dreadful -agonies of his passion, covered with livid bruises and corrupted gore. - -Whilst we were examining this too faithful effigy, some of the monks, by -leave of their superior, gathered around us; one of them, a tall -interesting figure, attracted my attention by the deep melancholy which -sat upon his features. Upon inquiry, I learned he was only -two-and-twenty years of age, of illustrious parentage, and lively -talents; but the immediate cause of his having sought these mansions of -stillness and mortification, the Grand Prior seemed loth to communicate. - -I could not help observing, as this young victim stood before me, and I -contemplated the evening light thrown on the arcades of the quadrangle, -how many setting suns he was likely to behold wasting their gleams upon -these walls, and what a wearisome succession of years he had in all -probability devoted himself to consume within their precincts. The eyes -of the good prior filled with tears, Verdeil shuddered, and the Abade, -forgetting the superstitious part he generally acts in religious places, -exclaimed loudly against the toleration of human sacrifices, and the -folly of permitting those to renounce the world, whose youth -incapacitates them from making a due estimate of its sorrows or -advantages. As for Don Pedro, his serious disposition received -additional gloom from the objects with which we were environed. - -The chill gust that blew from an arched hall where the fathers are -interred, and whose pavement returned a hollow sound as we walked over -it, struck him with horror. It was the first time of his entering a -Carthusian convent, and, to my surprise, he appeared ignorant of the -severities of the order. - -The sun set before we regained our carriage, and our conversation the -whole way home partook of the impression which the scenery we had been -contemplating inspired. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor - Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit to the - Theatre in the Rua d'os Condes.--The Archbishop - Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching nature of that - music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm of the young Conde de - Villanova.--No accounting for fancies. - - -14th June, 1787. - -It was my lot this afternoon to receive a curious succession of -visitors. First came Pombal, who looked worn down with gay living and -late hours; but there is an ease and fashion in his address not common -in this country. Though he possesses one of the largest landed estates -in the kingdom, (about one hundred and twenty thousand crowns a-year,) -he wished me to understand that his dread father, the scourge and terror -of the noblest houses in Portugal, the sole dispenser during so many -years of the royal treasure, died, notwithstanding, in distressed -circumstances, loaded with debts contracted in supporting the dignity -of his post. - -The next who did me the honour of a visit was the Judge Conservator of -the English factory, Joa Telles, a relation, legitimate or illegitimate -(I know not exactly which), of the Penalvas. This man, who has risen to -one of the highest posts of the law by the sole strength of his -abilities, has a nervous, original style of expression, which put me in -mind of Lord Thurlow; but to all this vigour of character and diction, -he joins the pliability and subtleness of a serpent; and those he cannot -take by storm, he is sure of overcoming by every soothing art of -flattery and insinuation. - -As soon as he was departed, entered a pair of monks with a basket of -sweetmeats in cut paper, from a good lady abbess, beseeching me to -portion out two sweet virgins as God's spouses in some neighbouring -monastery. - -They were scarcely dismissed, before Father Theodore d'Almeida and -another of his brethren were ushered in. The whites of their eyes alone -were visible, nor could Whitfield himself, the original Doctor Squintum -of Foote, have squinted more scientifically. - -I was all attention to Father Theodore's seraphic discourse; so -excellent an opportunity of hearing a first-rate specimen of -hypocritical cant was not to be neglected. No sooner had the fathers -been conducted to the stairshead with due ceremony, than Monsenhor -Aguilar, one of the prelates of the Patriarchal Cathedral, was -announced. He confirmed me in the opinion I entertained of Father -Theodore. No person can accuse Aguilar of being a hypocrite. He lays -himself but too much open, and treats the church from which he derives a -handsome maintenance, not as a patroness, but as an humble companion; -the constant butt and object of his sarcasms. In Portugal, even in the -year 1787, such conduct is madness, and I fear will expose him one day -or other to severe persecution. - -We were roused from a peaceful dish of tea by a loud hubbub in the -street, and running to the balcony, found a beastly mob of old hags, -children, and ragamuffins assembled, headed by half-a-dozen drummers, -and as many negroes in scarlet jackets, blowing French-horns with -unusual vehemence, and pointing them directly at the house. I was -wondering at this Jericho fashion of besieging one's door, and drawing -back to avoid being singed by a rocket which whizzed along within an -inch of my nose, when one of the servants entered with a crucifix on a -silver salver, and a mighty kind message from the nuns of the Convent of -the Sacrament, who had sent their musicians with trimbrels and -fireworks, to invite us to some grand doings at their convent, in honour -of the Festival of the Heart of Jesus. Really, these church parties -begin to lose in my eyes great part of the charm which novelty gave -them. I have had pretty nearly my fill of motets, and Kyrie eleisons, -and incense, and sweetmeats, and sermons. - -That heretic Verdeil, who would almost as soon be in hell at once as in -such a cloying heaven, would not let me rest till I went with him to the -theatre in the Rua d'os Condes, in order to dissipate by a little -profane air the fumes of so much holiness. The play afforded me more -disgust than amusement; the theatre is low and narrow, and the actors, -for there are no actresses, below criticism. Her Majesty's absolute -commands having swept females off the stage, their parts are acted by -calvish young fellows. Judge what a pleasing effect this metamorphosis -must produce, especially in the dancers, where one sees a stout -shepherdess in virgin white, with a soft blue beard, and a prominent -collar-bone, clenching a nosegay in a fist that would almost have -knocked down Goliah, and a train of milk-maids attending her enormous -foot-steps, tossing their petticoats over their heads at every step. -Such sprawling, jerking, and ogling I never saw before, and hope never -to see again. - -We were heartily sick of the performance before it was half finished, -and the night being serene and pleasant, were tempted to take a ramble -in the Great Square, which received a faint gleam from the lights in the -apartments of the palace, every window being thrown open to catch the -breeze. The Archbishop Confessor displayed his goodly person at one of -the balconies; from a clown, this now most important personage became a -common soldier, from a common soldier a corporal, from a corporal a -monk, in which station he gave so many proofs of toleration and -good-humour, that Pombal, who happened to stumble upon him by one of -those chances which set all calculation at defiance, judged him -sufficiently shrewd, jovial, and ignorant, to make a very harmless and -comfortable confessor to her Majesty, then Princess of Brazil: since her -accession to the throne, he is become Archbishop, _in partibus_, Grand -Inquisitor, and the first spring in the present Government of Portugal. -I never saw a sturdier fellow. He seems to anoint himself with the oil -of gladness, to laugh and grow fat in spite of the critical situation of -affairs in this kingdom, and the just fears all its true patriots -entertain of seeing it once more relapse into a Spanish province. - -At a window immediately over his right reverence's shining forehead, we -spied out the Lacerdas, two handsome sisters, maids of honour to the -Queen, waving their hands to us very invitingly. This was encouragement -enough for us to run up a vast many flights of stairs to their -apartment, which was crowded with nephews and nieces and cousins -clustering round two very elegant young women, who, accompanied by their -singing-master, a little square friar, with greenish eyes, were warbling -Brazilian modinhas. - -Those who have never heard this original sort of music, must and will -remain ignorant of the most bewitching melodies that ever existed since -the days of the Sybarites. They consist of languid interrupted measures, -as if the breath was gone with excess of rapture, and the soul panting -to meet the kindred soul of some beloved object. With a childish -carelessness they steal into the heart, before it has time to arm itself -against their enervating influence; you fancy you are swallowing milk, -and are admitting the poison of voluptuousness into the closest recesses -of your existence. At least, such beings as feel the power of harmonious -sounds are doing so; I won't answer for hard-eared, phlegmatic northern -animals. - -An hour or two passed away almost imperceptibly in the pleasing delirium -these syren notes inspired, and it was not without regret I saw the -company disperse and the spell dissolve. The ladies of the apartment -having received a summons to attend her Majesty's supper, curtsied us -off very gracefully, and vanished. - -In our way home we met the Sacrament, enveloped in a glare of light, -marching in state to pay some sick person a farewell visit; and that -hopeful young nobleman, the Conde de Villa Nova,[13] preceding the -canopy in a scarlet mantle, and tinkling a silver bell. He is always in -close attendance upon the Host, and passes the flower of his days in -this singular species of danglement. No lover was ever more jealous of -his mistress than this ingenuous youth of his bell. He cannot endure any -other person should give it vibration. The parish officers of the -extensive and populous district in which his palace is situated, from -respect to his birth and opulence, indulge him in this caprice, and -indeed a more perseverant bell-bearer they could not have chosen. At all -hours and in all weathers he is ready to perform this holy office. In -the dead of the night, or in the most intense heat of the day, out he -issues and down he dives, or up he climbs, to any dungeon or garret -where spiritual assistance of this nature is demanded. - -It has been again and again observed, that there is no accounting for -fancies. Every person has his own, which he follows to the best of his -means and abilities. The old Marialva's delights are centered between -his two silver recipiendaries; the Marquis his son in dancing attendance -with the Queen; and Villa Nova, in announcing with his bell to all true -believers the approach of celestial majesty. The present rage of the -scribbler of all these extravagances is modinhas, and under its -prevalence he feels half-tempted to set sail for the Brazils, the native -land of these enchanting compositions, to live in tents, such as the -Chevalier de Parny describes in his agreeable little voyage, and swing -in hammocks, or glide over smooth mats surrounded by bands of youthful -minstrels, diffusing at every step the perfume of jasmine and roses. - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night sounds of the city.--Public - gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja - Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous narrations of a young - priest.--Convent of Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore's - chickens.--Sequestered group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. - - -29th June, 1787. - -The bright sunshine which has lately been our portion, glorious as it -is, begins to tire me. Twenty times a day I cannot help wishing myself -extended at full-length upon the fresh herbage of some shady English -valley, where fairies gambol in the twilights of Midsummer, whispering -in the ears of their sleeping favourites the good or evil fortunes which -await them. It is too hot for these oracular little elvish beings in -Portugal, one must not here expect their inspirations; but would to -Heaven some revelation of this or any other nature had warned me off in -time, from the blinding dust and excessive sultriness of Lisbon and its -neighbourhood. How silly, when one is well and cool, to gad abroad, in -the vain hope of making what is really best, better. Depend upon it, -there is more vernal delight and joy in our green hills and copses, than -in all these stunted olive fields and sun-burnt promontories. - -We have a homely saying, that what is poison to one man is meat to -another, and true enough; for these days and nights of glowing -temperature, which oppress me beyond endurance, are the delight and -boast of the inhabitants of this capital. The heat seems not only to -have new venomed the stings of the fleas and the musquitoes, but to have -drawn out, the whole night long, all the human ephemera of Lisbon. They -frisk, and dance, and tinkle their guitars from sunset to sunrise. The -dogs, too, keep yelping and howling without intermission; and what with -the bellowing of litanies by parochial processions, the whizzing of -fireworks, which devotees are perpetually letting off in honour of some -member or other of the celestial hierarchy, and the squabbles of -bullying rake-hells, who scour the streets in search of adventures, -there is no getting a wink of sleep, even if the heat would allow it. - -As to those quiet nocturnal parties, where ingenuous youths rest their -heads, not on the lap of earth, but on that of their mistresses, who are -soothingly employed in delivering the jetty locks of their lovers from -too abundant a population, I have nothing to say against them, nor am I -much disturbed by the dashing sound of a few downfalls[14] from the -windows; but these dog-howlings exceed every annoyance of the kind I -ever endured, and give no slight foretaste of the infernal regions. - -Nothing but amusement and racket being thought of here at this season -(when to celebrate St. Peter's festival with all the noise and -extravagance in your power, is not more a profane inclination than a -pious duty,) that simpleton, the Conde de Villa Nova, opened his garden -last night to the nob and mob-ility of Lisbon. There was a dull -illumination of paper lanterns, and a sort of pavilion awkwardly -constructed for dancing, beneath which the prettiest French and English -mantua-makers, milliners, and abigails of the metropolis, figured away -in cotillons with the Duke of Cadaval and some other young men of the -first distinction, who, like many as hopeful in our own capital, are -never at their ease but in low company. Two or three of my servants -accompanied my tailor to the fte, and returned enraptured with the -affable pleasing manners of the foreign milliners and native nobility. - -I should have been most happy to remain at home, in the shade of my -green blinds, giving ear, through mere laziness, to any nonsense that -anybody chose to say to me; but we had been long engaged to dine with -Don Diego de Noronha, at the Anjeja Palace. - -When we arrived at our destination, we found the heir of the family -surrounded by priests and tutors, learning to look out at the window, -the chief employment of Portuguese fidalgo life. Oh what a precious -collection of stories did I hear at this attic banquet! There happened -to be amongst the company a young oaf of a priest, from I forget what -university (I hope not Coimbra), who kept on during the whole dinner -favouring us with marvellous narrations, such as the late Queen's -pounding a pearl of inestimable value, to swallow in medical potions; -and that one of the nuns of the Convent of the Sacrament, having -intrigued with old Beelzebub _in propria persona_, had been sent to the -Inquisition, and the window through which his infernal majesty had -entered upon this gallant exploit, walled up and painted over with red -crosses. The same precautionary decoration, continued he, has been -bestowed upon every opening in the faade, so that no demon, however -sharp-set, can get in again. He would fain also have made us believe, -that a woman very fair and plump to the eye, with an overflowing breast -of milk, who took in sucklings to nurse cheaper than anybody else, -regularly made away with them, and was now in the dungeons of the holy -office, accused of having minced up above a score of innocents! - -Heaven forbid I should detail any further particulars of our -table-talk; if I did, you would be finely surfeited. - -After dinner the company dispersed, some to their couches, some to hear -a sonata on the dulcimer, accompanied on the jew's harp by a couple of -dwarfs; the heir-apparent to his beloved window; and Verdeil and I to a -convent of Savoyard nuns, at Belem, the coolest, cleanest retirement in -the whole neighbourhood, and blessed into the bargain by the especial -patronage and inspection of Father Theodore d'Almeida. His reverence, it -seems, had been the principal instrument, under Providence, of -transplanting these blessed sprouts of holiness from the Convent of the -Visitation at Annecy to the glowing climate of Portugal. - -As I had just received a sugary epistle from this paragon of piety, -recommending his favourite establishment in several pages of ardent -panegyric, he could do no less than come forth from his interior nest, -and bid us welcome with a countenance arrayed in the sweetest smiles, -though I dare say he wished us at old scratch for our intrusion. - -"Poor things," said he, speaking of the chickens under education in this -coop, "we do all we can to improve their tender minds and their -guileless tongues in foreign languages. Sister Theresa has an admirable -knack for teaching arithmetic; our venerable mother is remarkably -well-bottomed in grammar, and Sister Francisca Salesia, whom I had the -happiness to bring over from Lyons, is not only a most pure and -persuasive moralist, but is acknowledged to be one of the first needles -in Christendom, so we do tolerably well in embroidery. In music we are -no great proficients. We allow of no modinhas, no opera airs; a plain -hymn is all you must expect here; in short, we are ill-fitted to receive -such distinguished visiters, and have nothing the world would call -interesting to recommend us; but then, I, their unworthy confessor, must -allow that such sweet, clean consciences as I meet with in this asylum -are treasures beyond all that the Indies can furnish." - -Both Verdeil and myself, conscious of our own extreme unworthiness, were -quite abashed by this sublime declamation, poured forth with hands -crossed on the bosom, and eyes turned up to the ceiling, like some -images one has seen of St. Ignatius or St. Francis Xavier. - -It was a minute at least before his reverence relaxed from this -attitude, and, drawing a curtain, condescended to admit us into a -spacious parlour, delightfully cool, perfumed with jasmine, and filled -with little Brazilian doves, parroquets, and canary birds. Such a cooing -and chirping was never heard in greater perfection, except in Mahomet's -Paradise; nor were the houries wanting, for in a deep recess, behind a -tolerably wide lattice, sat a row of the loveliest young creatures I -ever beheld. A daughter of my friend Don Jos de Brito was amongst the -number, and her eyes, of the most bewitching softness, seemed to acquire -new fascination in this mysterious sort of twilight, beaming from behind -a double grating of iron. - -Every now and then the birds, not in the least intimidated by the -predatory glances of Father Theodore, violated the sanctuary, and -pitched upon ivory necks, and were received with ten thousand -endearments by the angels of this little sequestered heaven, which -looked so refreshing, and formed by its sacred calm so inviting a -contrast to the turbulent world without, and its glaring atmosphere, -that I could not resist exclaiming, "O that I had wings like a dove, -that I might fly through those bars and be at rest!" - -I need not tell you we passed half-an-hour most delightfully in talking -of music, gardens, roses, and devotion, with the meninas, and had almost -forgotten we were engaged to hear the Scarlati sing. Her father, an old -captain of horse, of Italian extraction, lives not far from the Convent -of the Visitation, so we had not much time during our transit to -experience the woful difference between the cool parlour of the nuns and -the suffocating exterior air. - -A numerous group of the young ladies' kindred stood ready at the -street-door, with all that hospitable courtesy for which the Portuguese -are so remarkably distinguished, to usher the strangers up-stairs into a -gallery hung with arras and sconces, not unlike the great room of an -Italian inn, once the palace of a nobleman. To keep up these post-house -ideas, we scented a strong effluvia of the stable, and heard certain -stampings and neighings, as if a party of hounnyms had arrived to -partake of the concert. - -Many strange, aboriginal figures of both sexes were assembled, an -uncouth collection enough, I am apt to conjecture; however, I soon -ceased giving them any notice. The young lady of the house charmed me at -first sight by her graceful, modest manner; but when she sang some airs, -composed by the famous Perez, I was not less delighted than surprised. -Her voice modulates with unaffected carelessness into the most pathetic -tones.[15] Though she has adopted the masterly and scientific style of -Ferracuti, one of the first singers in the Queen's service, she gives a -simplicity of expression to the most difficult passages, that makes them -appear the effusions of a young romantic girl warbling to herself in the -secret recesses of a forest. - -I sat in a dark corner, unconscious of every thing that passed in the -apartment, of the singular figures that entered, or those that went -away; the starings, whisperings, and fan-flirtings of the assembly were -lost upon me: I could not utter a syllable, and was vexed when an -arbitrary old aunt insisted upon no more singing, and proposed a -faro-table and a dance. - -Most eagerly did I wish all the kindred and their friends petrified for -the time being by some obliging necromancer, and would have done any -thing, short of engaging my own dear self to the devil, to have obtained -an uninterrupted audience of the syren till morning. - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of - Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the - Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famous - Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.--Their - ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese minuets. - - -30th June, 1787. - -...We sallied out after dinner to pay visits. Never did I behold such -cursed ups-and-downs, such shelving descents and sudden rises, as occur -at every step one takes in going about Lisbon. I thought myself fifty -times on the point of being overturned into the Tagus, or tumbled into -sandy ditches, among rotten shoes, dead cats, and negro beldames, who -retire into such dens and burrows for the purpose of telling fortunes -and selling charms for the ague. - -The Inquisition too often lays hold of these wretched sibyls, and works -them confoundedly. I saw one dragging into light as I passed by the -ruins of a palace thrown down by the earthquake. Whether a familiar of -the Inquisition was griping her in his clutches, or whether she was -being taken to account by some disappointed votary, I will not pretend -to answer. Be that as it may, I was happy to be driven out of sight of -this hideous object, whose contortions and howlings were truly horrible. - -The more one is acquainted with Lisbon, the less it answers the -expectations raised by its magnificent appearance from the river. Could -a traveller be suddenly transported without preparation or prejudice to -many parts of this city, he would reasonably conclude himself traversing -a succession of villages awkwardly tacked together, and overpowered by -massive convents. The churches in general are in a woful taste of -architecture, the taste of Borromini, with crinkled pediments, -furbelowed cornices and turrets, somewhat in the style of old-fashioned -French clock-cases, such as Boucher designed with many a scrawl and -flourish to adorn the apartments of Madame de Pompadour. - -We traversed the city this evening in all its extent in our way to the -Duke d'Alafoens's villa, and gave vast numbers of her most faithful -Majesty's subjects an opportunity of staring at the height of the -coach-box, the short jacket of the postilion, and other Anglicisms of -the equipage. The Duke had been summoned to a council of state; but we -found the Marquis of Marialva, who went with us round the apartments of -the villa, which have nothing remarkable except one or two large saloons -of excellent and striking proportions. - -He afterwards proposed accompanying us about half-a-mile farther to the -quinta of Marvilla, which belongs to his father. This spot has great -picturesque beauties. The trees are old and fantastic, bending over -ruined fountains and mutilated statues of heroes in armour, variegated -by the lapse of years with innumerable tints of purple, green, and -yellow. In the centre of almost impenetrable thickets of bay and myrtle, -rise strange pyramids of rock-work surrounded by marble lions, that have -a magic, symbolical appearance. M---- has feeling enough to respect -these uncouth monuments of an age when his ancestors performed so many -heroic achievements, and readily promised me never to sacrifice them and -the venerable shades in which they are embowered, to the pert, gaudy -taste of modern Portuguese gardening. - -We walked part of the way home by the serene light of the full moon -rising from behind the mountains on the opposite shore of the Tagus, at -this extremity of the metropolis above nine miles broad. Lisbon, which -appeared to me so uninteresting a few hours ago, assumed a very -different aspect by these soft gleams. The flights of steps, terraces, -chapels, and porticos of several convents and palaces on the brink of -the river, shone forth like edifices of white marble, whilst the rough -cliffs and miserable sheds rising above them were lost in dark shadows. -The great square through which we passed was filled with idlers of all -sorts and sexes, staring up at the illuminated windows of the palace in -hopes of catching a glimpse of her Majesty, the Prince, the Infantas, -the Confessor, or Maids of Honour, whisking about from one apartment to -the other, and giving ample scope to amusing conjectures. I am told the -Confessor, though somewhat advanced in his career, is far from being -insensible to the allurements of beauty, and pursues the young nymphs of -the palace from window to window with juvenile alacrity. - -It was nine before we got home, and I had not been long reposing myself -after my walk, and arranging some plants I had gathered in the thickets -of Marvilla, before three distinct ringings of the bell at my door -announced the arrival of some distinguished personage; nor was I -disappointed, for in came the old Marquis of Penalva and his son, who -till a year ago, when the Queen granted him the same title as his -father, was called Conde de Tarouca. - -You must have heard frequently of that name. A grandfather of the old -Marquis rendered it very illustrious by several important and successful -embassies: the splendid entertainments he gave at the Congress of -Utrecht, are amply described in Madame du Noyers and several other books -of memoirs. - -The Penalvas brought this evening in their suite a famous Jesuit, Padre -Duarte, whom Pombal thought of sufficient consequence to be imprisoned -for eighteen years, and a tall, knock-kneed, rhubarb-faced physician, -in a gorgeous suit of glistening satin, one of the most ungain, -conceited professors of the art of murdering I ever met with. Between -the Jesuit and the doctor I had enough to do to keep my temper or -countenance. They prated incessantly, pretended to have the most -implicit admiration for everything that came from England, either in the -way of furniture or poetry, and confounding dates, names, and subjects -in one strange jumble, asked whether Sir Peter Lely was not the actual -President of our Royal Academy, and launched forth into a warm encomium -of my countryman Hans Holbein. I begged leave to assure these -complaisant sages, that the last-mentioned artist was born at Basle, and -that Sir Peter Lely had been dead a century. They stared a little at -this information, but continued, nevertheless, in full song, playing off -a sounding peal of compliments upon our national proficiency in -painting, watch-making, the stocking-manufactory, &c. when General -Forbes came in and made a diversion in my favour. We had some -conversation upon the present state of Portugal, and the risks it runs -of being swallowed up by the negotiations, not by the arms of Spain, -ere many years are elapsed.... - -Our discourse was interrupted by the arrival of a fiddler, a priest, and -an Italian musician, humble servants and toad-eaters to my illustrious -guests. They fell a thumping my poor piano-forte, and playing sonatas -whether I would or not. You are aware I am no great friend to sonatas, -and that certain chromatic, squeaking tones of a fiddle, when the -performer turns up the whites of his eyes, waggles a greasy chin, and -affects ecstasies, set my teeth on edge. The griping countenance of the -doctor was enough to produce that effect already, without the assistance -of his fellow parasites, the priest and musician. Padre Duarte seemed to -like them no better than myself; General Forbes had wisely withdrawn; -and the old Marquis, inspired by a pathetic adagio, glided suddenly -across the room in a step which I took for the beginning of a ballet -heroique, but which turned out a minuet in the Portuguese style, with -all its kicks and flourishes, in which Miss S----, who had come in to -tea, was persuaded to join much against her inclination. It was no -sooner ended, than the doctor displayed his rueful length of person in -such a twitching angular minuet, as I want words to describe; so, -between the sister-arts of music and dancing, I passed a delectable -evening. This set shan't catch me at home again in a hurry. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Jos di - Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and - hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious - chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening scene in the garden of - Marvilla. - - -July 2nd, 1787. - -I was awakened in the night by a horrid cry of dogs; not that infernal -pack which Dryden tells us in his divine tale of Theodore and Honoria -went regularly a ghost-hunting every Friday, howled half so dreadfully: -Lisbon is more infested than any other capital I ever inhabited by herds -of these half-famished animals, making themselves of use and importance -by ridding the streets of some part, at least, of their unsavoury -incumbrances. - -Verdeil, who could not sleep any more than myself, on account of a -furious and long protracted battle between two parties of these -hell-hounds, persuaded me to rise with the sun, and proceed on -horseback along the shore of Belem, which appeared in all its morning -glory; the sky diversified by streaming clouds of purple edged with -gold, and the sea by innumerable vessels of different sizes shooting -along in various directions, whilst the waves at the entrance of the -harbour were in violent agitation, all froth and foam. - -To vary our excursion a little, we struck out of the common track, and -visited the convent of San Jos di Ribamar. The building is irregular -and picturesque, rising from a craggy eminence, and backed by a thicket -of elm, bay, and arbor jud. We were shown by simple, smiling friars, -into a small court with cloisters, supported by low Tuscan columns. A -fountain playing in the middle and sprinkling a profusion of flowers, -gave an oriental air to this little court that pleased me exceedingly. -The monks seem sensible of its merits, for they keep it tolerably clean, -which is more than I will say for their garden. Bindweed and dwarf-aloes -almost prevented our crossing it in our way to the thicket; a delicious -retreat, the refuge and comfort of half the birds in the country. Thanks -to monkish laziness, the underwood remains unclipped, and intrudes -wherever it pleases upon the alleys, which hang over the sea, in a bold -romantic manner. - -The fathers would show me their flower-garden, and a very pleasant -terrace it is; neatly paved with chequered tiles, and interspersed with -knots of carnations, in a style as ancient, I should conjecture, as the -dominion of the Moors in Portugal. Espaliers of citron and orange cover -the walls, and have almost gotten the better of some glaring shell-work, -with which a reverend father encrusted them ten or twelve years ago. -Shining beads, china plates and saucers turned inside out, compose the -chief ornaments of this decoration; I observed the same propensity to -shell-work and broken china in a Mr. de Visme, whose quinta at Bemfica -eclipses our Clapham and Islington villas in all the attractions of -leaden statues, Chinese temples, serpentine rivers, and dusty -hermitages. - -We returned home before the heat grew quite intolerable, and just in -time to go to a breakfast at the Marquis of Penalva's, to which we had -been invited the day before yesterday. When once a Portuguese of the -first class determines to admit a stranger into the penetralia of his -family, he spares no pains to set off all he possesses to the most -striking advantage, and offer it to his guest with the most liberal -hospitality; you appear to command him, and he everything. Our -reception, therefore, was most sumptuous and most cordial. - -If we had wished for a concert, the best musicians of the royal chapel -were in waiting to perform it; if to examine early editions of the -classics or scarce Portuguese authors, the library was open, and the -librarian ready to hand and explain to us any article that happened to -attract our attention; if to see pictures, the walls of several -apartments displayed an interesting collection, both of the Italian and -Flemish schools; if conversation, almost every person of literary note -in this capital, academicians and artists, were assembled. Supposing the -rarest botanical specimens and flowers had been our peculiar taste, some -of the most perfect I ever beheld were presented to us; and that nothing -in any line might be wanting, the rich grated folding-doors of a chapel -were expanded, and an altar splendidly lighted up, seemed to invite -those who felt spiritual calls, to indulge themselves. - -For my part, the sea breezes having sharpened my temporal appetite, I -sat down with great alacrity to breakfast. It was magnificent and well -served. I could not help noticing the extreme fineness of the linen, -curiously embroidered with arms and flowers, red on a white ground. -Superb embossed gilt salvers supported plates of iced fruit, -particularly scarlet strawberries, which are uncommon in Portugal, and -filled the apartment with fragrance; the more grateful, as it excited, -by the strong power of associated ideas, recollections of home and of -England. - -Much whispering and giggling was going forward in the cool shade of -several mysterious chambers, which opened into the saloon where we were -at table. These sounds proceeded from the ladies of the family, who, had -they been natives of Bagdad or Constantinople, could hardly have -remained in a more Asiatic state of seclusion. I was allowed, however, -to make my bow to them in their harem itself, which, I was given to -understand, I ought to look upon as a most flattering mark of -distinction. Who should I find in the midst of the group of senhoras, -and seated like them upon the ground _ la faon de Barbarie_, but the -newly-consecrated, and very young-looking Bishop of Algarve, whose -small, black, sleek, schoolboyish head and sallow countenance, was -overshadowed by an enormous pair of green spectacles. Truth obliges me -to confess that the expression which beamed from the eyes under these -formidable glasses, did not absolutely partake of the most decent, mild, -or apostolic character. In process of time, perhaps, he may acquire that -varnish, without which the least holy intentions often miss their aim, -the varnish of hypocrisy. I wonder he has not already attained a more -conspicuous degree of perfection in this style, having studied under a -complete _tartuffe_ and Jansenistical bigot as ever existed, one of the -cock-birds of a nest of imaginary philosophers, who are working hard to -undo what little good has been done in this country, and laying a mine -of ten thousand intrigues to blow up, if they can but contrive it, all -genuine sentiments of religion and morality. - -The old Marquis of Penalva pressed us to stay dinner, which was set out -in high order, in a pleasant, shady apartment. Verdeil could not resist -the temptation; but I was fatigued with the howlings of the night, and -the sultriness and bustle of the day, and went home to a quieter party -with the Grand Prior and Don Pedro. - -In the evening we drove to Marvilla, the neglected garden I have before -mentioned, and which commands the broadest expanse of the Tagus, a -prospect which recalled to my mind the lake of Geneva, and all that -befel me on its banks. You may imagine, then, it tended much more to -depress than exhilarate my spirits. I consented, however, to accompany -the Grand Prior about the alleys and terraces of this romantic -enclosure, the scene of his childhood, and of which he is peculiarly -fond. The palace, courts, and fountains are almost in ruins, the -parterres of myrtle have shot up into wild bushes covered with blossoms, -and the statues are half concealed by jasmine. - -Here is a small theatre for operas, and a chapel, not unlike a mosque in -shape, and arabesque ornaments, darkly shadowed by Spanish banners, the -trophies of the battle of Elvas, gained by an ancestor of the Marialvas. - -A long bower of vines, supported by marble pillars, leads from the -palace to the chapel. There is something majestic in this verdant -gallery, and the glow of sun-set piercing its foliage, lighted up the -wan features of several superannuated servants of the family, who -crawled out of their decayed chambers and threw themselves on their -knees before the Grand Prior and Don Pedro. - -We wandered about this forlorn, abandoned garden, whose stillness -equalled that of a Carthusian convent, till dusk, when a refreshing wind -having risen, waved the cypresses and scattered the white jasmine -flowers over the parterres of myrtle in clouds like snow. Don Pedro -filled the carriage with flowery sprays pulled from mutilated statues, -and we were all half intoxicated before we reached my habitation with -the delicious but overcoming perfume. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalha.--The - Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion designed by Pillement.--A convulsive - gallop.--Cold weather in July. - - -July 9th, 1787. - -I was at the Marialva Palace by nine, and set off from thence with the -Marquis for Cintra. Having the command of the Queen's stables, in which -are four thousand mules and two thousand horses, he orders as many -relays as he pleases, and we changed mules four times in the space of an -hour. - -A few minutes after ten we were landed at Ramalha, a villa, under the -pyramidical rocks of Cintra, Signor S. Arriaga was so kind as to lend me -a month or two ago, and which I have not had time to visit till to-day. -The suite of apartments are spacious and airy, and the views they -command of sea and arid country boundless; but unless the heat becomes -more violent, I shall be cooler than I wish in them, as they contain -not a chimney except in the kitchen. - -I found the garden in excellent order, and flourishing crops of -vegetables springing up between rows of orange and citron. Such is the -power of the climate, that the gardenias and Cape plants I brought with -me from England, mere stumps, are covered with beautiful blossoms. The -curled mallows, and some varieties of Indian-corn, sown by my English -gardener, have shot up to a strange elevation, and begin already to form -shady avenues and fairy forests, where children might play in perfection -at landscape-gardening. - -After I had passed half-an-hour in looking about me, the Marquis and I -got into our chair and drove to his own villa; a new creation, which has -cost him a great many thousand pounds sterling. Five years ago it was a -wild hill bestrewn with flints and rocky fragments. At present you find -a gay pavilion designed by Pillement, and elegantly decorated; a -parterre with statues and fountains, thick alleys of laurel, bay, and -laurustine, cascades, arbours, clipped box-trees, and every ornament the -Portuguese taste in gardening renders desirable. - -We dined at a clean snug inn, situated towards the middle of the village -of Cintra. The Queen has lately bestowed this house and a large tract of -ground adjoining it, upon the Marquis. From its windows and loggias you -look down deep ravines and bold slopes of woods and copses, variegated -with mossy stones and ancient decayed chesnuts. - -As soon as the sun grew low we went to Collares, and walked on a terrace -belonging to M. la Roche, a French merchant, who has shown some -glimmering of taste in the laying out of his villa. The groves of pine -and chesnut starting from the crevices of rock, and rising one above -another to a considerable elevation, give Collares the air of an Alpine -village. Innumerable rills, overhung by cork-trees and branching lemons, -burst out of ruined walls by the wayside, and dash into marble basins. A -favourite attendant of the late king's, who has a very large property in -these environs, invited us with much civility and obsequiousness into -his garden. I thought myself entering the orchards of Alcinous. The -boughs literally bent under loads of fruit; the slightest shake strewed -the ground with plums, oranges, and apricots. - -This villa boasts a grand artificial cascade, with tritons and dolphins -vomiting torrents of water; but I paid it not half the attention its -proprietor expected, and retiring under the shade of the fruit-trees, -feasted on the golden apples and purple plums that were rolling about me -in such profusion. The Marquis, who shares with most of the Portuguese a -remarkable predilection for flowers, filled his carriage with carnations -and jasmine. I never saw plants more conspicuous for size and vigour -than those which have the luck of being sown in this fortunate soil. The -exposition likewise is singularly happy; skreened by sloping hills, and -defended from the sea-airs by several miles of thickets and orchards. I -felt unwilling to quit a spot so favoured by nature, and M---- flatters -himself I shall be tempted to purchase it. - -The wind became troublesome as we ascended the hill, crowned by the -Marialva villa. The sky was clear and the sun set fiery. The distant -convent of Mafra, glowing with ruddy light, looked like the enchanted -palace of a giant, and the surrounding country bleak and barren as if -the monster had eaten it desolate. To repose ourselves a little after -our rapid excursion we entered the pavilion I told you just now -Pillement had designed. It represents a bower of fantastic Indian trees -mingling their branches, and discovering between them peeps of a summer -sky. From the mouth of a flying dragon depends a magnificent lustre for -fifty lights, hung with festoons of brilliant glass, that twinkle like -strings of diamonds. - -We loitered in this saloon till it was pitch-dark. The pages riding full -speed before us with flaming torches, and the wind driving back sparks -and smoke full in our faces, I was stunned and bewildered, and -experienced, perhaps, the sensations of a novice in sorcery, mounted for -the first time behind a witch on a broomstick. In less than an hour we -had rattled over twelve miles of rough, disjoined pavement, going up and -down the steepest hills in a convulsive gallop, so that I expected every -instant to be thrown flat on my nose; but, happily, the mules were -picked from perhaps a hundred, and never stumbled. I found the air on -the heights above the Ajueda very keen and piercing. - -It sounds strange to be complaining of cold at Lisbon on the ninth of -July. - - - - -LETTER XIX. - - Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir - of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty - terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.--The - Chapel.--Barbaric profusion of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian - knelt when he received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in - preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalha. - - -July 24th, 1787. - -There exists, I am convinced, a decided sympathy between toads and -witch-like old women. Mother Morgan[16] descended this morning, not into -the infernal regions, but into the cellar, and immediately five or six -spanking reptiles of this mysterious species waddled around her. She -rewarded the confidence the poor things placed in her rather scurvily, -and laid three of the fattest sprawling. I saw them lying breathless in -the court as I got on horseback; the largest measured seven inches in -diameter. Portuguese toads may be more distinguished for size, but are -not half so amiably speckled as those we have the happiness to harbour -in England. - -I was some time hesitating which way I should turn my horse's steps, -whether to the Pedra d'os Ovos, or on the other side of the rock to the -Peninha, a cell belonging to the Hieronimites, and dependent upon their -principal eyry, Nossa Senhora da Penha. Marialva, whom I met with all -his train of equerries and picadors coming forth from his villa, decided -me not to take a clambering ride, but to accompany him to the palace, -the interior of which I had not yet visited. - -The Alhambra itself is scarcely more morisco in point of architecture -than this confused pile, which seems to grow out of the summit of a -rocky eminence, and is broken into a variety of picturesque recesses and -projections. It is a thousand pities that they have whitened its -venerable walls, stopped up a range of bold arcades, and sliced out one -end of the great hall into two or three mean apartments like the -dressing-rooms of a theatre. From the windows, which are all in a -fantastic oriental style, crinkled and crankled, and supported by -twisted pillars of smooth marble, striking, romantic views of the cliffs -and village of Cintra are commanded. Several irregular courts and -loggias, formed by the angles of square towers, are enlivened by -fountains of marble and gilt bronze, continually pouring forth abundant -streams of the purest water. - -A sort of reservoir, almost long enough to be styled a canal, is -continued the whole length of the great hall, and serves as a paradise -for shoals of the largest and most brilliant gold and silver fish I ever -set eyes upon. The murmur of the jets-d'eau which rise from this canal, -the ripple of the water undulating against steps and slabs of polished -marble, the glancing and gleaming of the fish, and the striking contrast -of light and shade produced by the intricate labyrinth of arches and -columns, combine altogether to form a scene of enchantment such as we -sometimes dream of, but hardly suppose is ever realized. There is a -sobriety in the hues of the marble, a mysteriousness in the dark -recesses seen in perspective, and a solemnity in the deep colour, -approaching to blackness, of the water in that part of the reservoir -which is overshadowed by lofty buildings, I cannot help thinking -superior to all the flutter and glitter of the most famous Moorish -edifices at Granada or Seville. - -The flat summit of one of the loftiest terraces, not less than one -hundred and fifty feet from the ground, is laid out as a neat parterre, -which is spread like an embroidered carpet before the entrance of a huge -square tower, almost entirely occupied by a hall encrusted with -glistening tiles, and crowned by a most singularly-shaped dome. Amidst -the scrolls of arabesque foliage which adorn it, appear the arms of the -principal Portuguese nobility. The achievement of the unfortunate house -of Tavora is blotted out, and the panel it occupied left bare. - -We had climbed up to this terrace and tower by one of those steep, -cork-screw staircases, of which there are numbers in the palace, and -which connect with vaulted passages in a secret and suspicious manner. -The Marquis pointed out to me the mosaic pavement of a small chamber, -fretted and worn away in several places by the steps of Alphonso the -Sixth, who was confined to this narrow space a long series of years. - -Descending from it, we looked into the chapel, not less singular in form -and construction than the rest of the edifice. The low flat cupola, as -well as the intersections of the arches, are much in the style of a -mosque; but the barbaric profusion of gold, and still more barbaric -paintings with which every soffite and panel are covered, might almost -be supposed the work of Cingalese or Hindostanee artists, and reminded -me of those subterraneous pagodas where his Satanic Majesty receives -homage under the form of Gumputy or of Boodh. - -The original glare of all this strange scenery is greatly subdued by the -smoke of lamps, which have been burning for ages before the altar: a -mysterious pile of carved work and imagery, in perfect consonance, as to -gloom and uncouthness, with every other object in the place. It was -whilst kneeling before this very altar that the young, the ardent, the -chivalrous Don Sebastian is said to have received a supernatural warning -to renounce that fatal African expedition which cost him his crown and -his life, and what an heroic mind holds in far higher estimation, that -immortal fame which follows successful achievements. - -A something I can hardly describe, an oppressive gloom, seemed to hang -over this chapel, which remains very nearly, I should imagine, in the -same style it was left by the ill-fated Sebastian. The want of a free -circulation of air, and a heavy cloud of incense, affected the nerves of -my head so disagreeably that I was glad to move on, and follow the -Marquis into the rooms preparing for the Queen and the Infantas. These -are airy and well ventilated; but instead of hanging them with rich -arras, representing the adventures of knights and worthies, her -Majesty's upholsterers are hard at work covering the stout walls with -bright silks and satins of the palest and most delicate colours. I saw -no furniture worth notice, not a picture or a cabinet: our stay, -therefore, as we had nothing to see, was not protracted. - -As soon as the Marquis had given some orders, with which his royal -mistress had charged him, we returned to Ramalha, where Horne and -Guildermeester, the Dutch Consul, were waiting our arrival, and -squabbling about insurances, percentages, commissions, and other -commercial speculations. - -I have been persuading the Marquis to accompany me to-morrow to -Guildermeester's: it is the old man's birthday, and he opens his new -house with dancing and suppering. We shall have a pretty sample of the -factory misses, clerks, and apprentices, some underlings of the _corps -diplomatique_, and God knows how many thousand pound weight of Dutch and -Hambro merchants. - - - - -LETTER XX. - - Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday of - Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome lights of - Truth.--Invective against the English. - - -July 25th, 1787. - -Grand gala at Court, and the Marquis gone to attend it; for this blessed -day not only gave birth to Guildermeester, but to the Princess of -Brazil. We went to dine with the Marchioness. A band of regimental -music, on their march to Guildermeester, began playing in the court, and -drew forth one of those curious swarms of all sexes, ages, and colours, -which this beneficent family are so fond of harbouring. Donna -Henriquetta was seated on the steps, which lead up to the great -pavilion, whispering to some of her favourite attendants, who, like the -chorus in an ancient Greek tragedy, were continually giving their -opinion of whatever was going forward. - -Just as Don Pedro and I were preparing to set off together for the ball -at the old consul's, we were agreeably surprised by the arrival of the -Marquis, who had escaped from the palace much earlier than he expected. -I carried him in my chaise to Horne's, where we drank tea on his -terrace, which commands the most romantic view in Cintra; vast sweeps of -varied foliage, banks with twisted roots, and trunks of enormous -chesnuts, mingled with weeping-willows of the freshest verdure, and -citrons clustered with fruit. Above this sylvan scene tower three -shattered pinnacles of rock, the middle one diversified by the turrets -and walls of Nossa Senhora da Penha, a convent of Jeronimites, -frequently concealed in clouds. I leaned against a cork-tree, which -spreads its branches almost entirely over the veranda, enjoying the -view, and staring idly at the grotesque figures, Dutch, English, and -Portuguese, passing along to Guildermeester's; a series sufficiently -diversified to have amused me for some time, had not M---- grown -impatient and uneasy. His brother-in-law, S---- V----, to whom he has a -mortal aversion, having made his appearance, the powers of light and -darkness, if personified, could not exhibit a stronger contrast than -these two personages; M---- looking all benignity, and S---- V---- all -malevolence. Indeed, if one half of the atrocities[17] public report -attributes to this notorious nobleman be true, I should not wonder at -the blackness of revenge and tyranny being so deeply marked in every -line of his countenance. - -Moving off the first opportunity, we passed through dark and gloomy -lanes, admirably calculated for such exploits as I have just alluded to, -and were near being jerked into a ditch as we drove to the old consul's -door. The space before this new building is in sad disorder. The house -has little more than bare walls, and was not very splendidly lighted up. - -As for the company, they turned out just what I expected. Madame G----, -who is a woman of spirit and discernment, did the honours with the -greatest ease, and paid her principal guests the most marked attentions. -There is a something pointedly original in all her observations, which -pleased me very much. She is not, however, of the merciful tribe, and -joined forces with Verdeil (no foe to a little slashing conversation) in -cutting up the factory. M---- handed her in to supper. This part of the -entertainment was magnificent. There was a bright illumination, an -immense profusion of plate, a striking breadth of table, every delicacy -that could be procured, and a dessert-frame, fifty or sixty feet in -length, gleaming with burnished figures and vases of silver flowers. I -felt no inclination to dance after supper; the music was not inspiring, -and the company thrown into the utmost confusion by the mad freaks of a -Frenchman, upon whom one of the principal ladies present is supposed for -two or three years past to have placed her affections. A _coup de -soleil_ and a quarrel with his ambassador, Monsieur de Bombelles, it -seems had turned the poor fellow's brain: there was no preventing his -rushing from room to room with the sputter and eccentricity of a -fire-work, now abusing one person, now another, confessing publicly the -universal kindness he had received from the lady above hinted at, and -the many marks of tender affection a certain Miss W---- had bestowed on -him. "Why," said he to the two heroines, who I am told are not upon the -best terms imaginable, "should you squabble and scratch? You are both -equally indulgent, and have both rendered me in your turns the happiest -mortal in the universe." - -Whilst the light of truth was shining upon the bystanders in this very -singular manner, I leave you to imagine the awkward surprise of the -worthy old husband, and the angry blushes of his spouse and her fair -associate. I never beheld a more capital scene. In some of our -pantomimes, if I recollect rightly, harlequin applies a touchstone to -his adversaries, and by its magic influence draws truth from their -mouths in spite of propriety or interest. The lawyer confesses having -fingered a bribe, the soldier his flight in the day of battle, and the -whining methodistical dowager her frequent recourse to the bottle of -inspiration. This wondrous effect seems to have been here realized, and -some malicious demon to have possessed the talkative Frenchman, and to -have compelled him to disclose the mysteries to which he owes his -subsistence. Amongst the harsh truths poured out by this flow of -sincerity was a vehement apostrophe to the English canaille, as he -styled them, upon their rank intolerance of all customs except their -own, and their ten thousand starch uncharitable prejudices. Mrs.----, -become dauntless through despair, took up the cudgels in this cause most -vigorously, compared the chief part of the company to a swarm of -venomous insects, unworthy to crawl upon the hem of her really pure, -though calumniated garments, and fit to be shaken off with a vengeance -the first opportunity. - -The Marquis, Don Pedro, and I enjoyed the scene so much, that we stayed -later than we intended. - - - - -LETTER XXI. - - The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal of a - Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. - - -Ramalha, near Cintra, 26th August, 1787. - -The Queen of Portugal's chapel is still the first in Europe; in point of -vocal and instrumental excellence, no other establishment of the kind, -the papal not excepted, can boast such an assemblage of admirable -musicians. Wherever her Majesty moves they follow; when she goes a -hawking to Salvaterra, or a health-hunting to the baths of the Caldas. -Even in the midst of these wild rocks and mountains, she is surrounded -by a bevy of delicate warblers, as plump as quails, and as gurgling and -melodious as nightingales. The violins and violoncellos at her Majesty's -beck are all of the first order, and in oboe and flute-players her -musical menagerie is unrivalled. - -The Marquis of M----, as first Lord of the Bedchamber, Master of the -Horse, and, as it were, hereditary prime favourite, enjoys a decided -influence over this empire of sweet sounds; and having been so friendly -as to impart a share of these musical blessings to me, I have been -permitted to avail myself, whenever I please, of a selection from this -wonderful band of performers. This very morning, to my shame be it -recorded, I remained hour after hour in my newly-arranged pavilion, -without reading a word, writing a line, or entering into any -conversation. All my faculties were absorbed by the harmony of the wind -instruments, stationed at a distance in a thicket of orange and bay -trees. It was to no purpose that I tried several times to retire out of -the sound--I was as often drawn back as I attempted to snatch myself -away. Did I consult the health of my mind, I should dismiss these -musicians; their plaintive affecting tones are sure to awaken in my -bosom a long train of mournful recollections, and by the force of -associated ideas to plunge me into a state of languor and gloom. - - * * * * * - -My excellent friend, the Prior of Aviz, performed a real act of -friendship, by breaking in almost by force upon my seclusion, and -rousing me from my reveries. He insisted upon my accompanying him to the -Archbishop's, where the rehearsal of a council to be held in the Queen's -presence was going forward, and all the ministers with their assistant -under-secretaries assembled. Such congregations are new to the good old -Confessor, who has been just pressed into the supreme direction, I might -say control, of the Cabinet, much against his will. He knows too well -the value of ease and tranquillity not to regret so violent an inroad -upon his usual habits of life. We found him, therefore, as might be -expected, in a state of turmoil and irritation, flushed up to the very -forehead with a ruddy tint, which was highly contrasted by his flowing -white flannel garments. These garments he frequently shook and crumpled, -and more than once did he strike with vehemence against his portly -paunch, which, though he declared it had waited an hour longer than -customary for its wonted replenishment, sounded by no means so hollow as -an empty tub. The old saying, that "_fat paunches make lean pates_," -could not, however, be applied to him; he was so gracious and -confidential as to give me a summary of what had been represented to him -from the different departments of state, with great perspicuity and -acuteness. - -Notwithstanding the interest this singular communication ought to have -excited, I paid it not half the attention it deserved. The impression I -had received in the morning, from the music of Haydn and Jomelli, still -lingered about me. The Grand Prior, finding politics could not shake -them off, consulted with his nephew, who happened to be just by in the -Queen's apartment, and returned with a proposal, that as I had long -expressed a wish to see Mafra, we should put this scheme in execution -to-morrow. It was settled, therefore, that to-morrow we should set off. - - - - -LETTER XXII. - - Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast - fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The - High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.--The collateral - Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The Abbot of the Convent.--The - Library.--View from the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of - the Capitan Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the - Organs.--The Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive - crowd.--The Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de - Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan Mor's. - - -August 27th, 1787. - -We got into the carriage at nine, in spite of the wind, which blew full -in our faces. The distance from the villa I inhabit to this stupendous -convent is about fourteen English miles, and the road, which by -good-luck has been lately mended, conducted across a parched, open -country, thinly scattered with windmills and villages. The retrospect on -the woody slopes and pointed rocks of Cintra is pleasant enough; but -when you look forward, nothing can be more bleak or barren than the -prospect. Thanks to relays of mules, we advanced, full speed, and in -less than an hour and a quarter found ourselves under a strong wall -which winds boldly across the hills, and incloses the park of Mafra. - -We now caught a glimpse of the marble towers and dome of the convent, -relieved by an azure expanse of ocean, rising above the brow of heathy -eminences, diversified here and there by the bushy heads of Italian -pines and the tall spires of cypress. The roofs of the edifice were not -yet visible, and we continued some time winding about the undulating -acclivities in the park before they were discovered. A detachment of -lay-brothers were waiting to open the gates of the royal inclosure, -sadly blackened by a fire, which about a month ago consumed a great part -of its wood and verdure. Our approach spread a terrible alarm among the -herds of deer, which were peacefully browsing on a slope rather greener -than those in its neighbourhood. Off they scudded and took refuge in a -thicket of half-burnt pines. - -After coasting the wall of the great garden, we turned suddenly the -corner, and discovered one of the vast fronts of the convent, appearing -like a street of palaces. I cannot pretend that the style of the -building is such as a lover of pure Grecian architecture would approve; -the windows and doors are many of them fantastically shaped, but at -least well proportioned. - -I was admiring their ample range as we drove rapidly along, when, upon -wheeling round the lofty square pavilion which flanks the edifice, the -grand faade, extending above eight hundred feet, opened to my view. The -centre is formed by the porticos of the church richly adorned with -columns, niches, and bass-reliefs of marble. On each side two towers, -somewhat resembling those of St. Paul's in London, rise to the height of -near two hundred feet, and, joining on to the enormous _corps de logis_, -the palace terminates to the right and left by its stately pavilions. -These towers are light, airy, and clustered with pillars, remarkably -beautiful; but their form in general borders too much on a sort of -pagoda-ish style, and wants solemnity. They contain many bells of the -largest dimensions, and a famous chime which cost several hundred -thousand crusadoes, and which was set playing the moment our arrival was -notified. The platform and flight of steps before the columned entrance -of the church is strikingly grand; and the dome, which lifts itself up -so proudly above the pediment of the portico, merits praise for its -lightness and elegance. - -My eyes ranged along the vast extent of palace on each side till they -were tired, and I was glad to turn them from the glare of marble and -confusion of sculptured ornaments to the blue expanse of the distant -ocean. Before the front of this colossal structure a wide level of space -extends itself, at the extremity of which several white houses lie -dispersed. Though these buildings are by no means inconsiderable, they -appear, when contrasted with the immense pile in the neighbourhood, like -the booths of workmen, for such I took them upon my first survey, and -upon a nearer approach was quite surprised at their real dimensions. - -Few objects render the prospect from the platform of Mafra, interesting. -You look over the roofs of an indifferent village and the summits of -sandy acclivities, backed by a boundless stretch of sea. On the left, -your view is terminated by the craggy mountains of Cintra; to the right, -a forest of pines in the Viscount of Ponte de Lima's extensive garden, -affords the eye some small refreshment. - -To skreen ourselves from the sun, which darted powerfully on our heads, -we entered the church, passing through its magnificent portico, which -reminded me not a little of the entrance of St. Peter's; and is crowded -with the statues of saints and martyrs, carved with infinite delicacy. - -The first _coup-d'oeil_ of the church is very imposing. The high -altar, adorned with two majestic columns of reddish variegated marble, -each, a single block, above thirty feet in height, immediately fixes the -eye. Trevisani has painted the altar-piece in a masterly manner. It -represents St. Anthony in the ecstasy of beholding the infant Jesus -descending into his cell amidst an effulgence of glory. - -To-morrow being the festival of St. Augustine, whose followers are the -actual possessors of this monastery, all the golden candelabra were -displayed, and tapers lighted. After pausing a few minutes in the midst -of this bright illumination, we visited the collateral chapels, each -enriched with highly finished bassi-relievi and stately portals of black -and yellow marble, richly veined, and so highly polished as to reflect -objects like a mirror. Never did I behold such an assemblage of -beautiful marble as gleamed above, below, and around us. The pavement, -the vaulted ceiling, the dome, and even the topmost lantern, is -encrusted with the same costly and durable materials. Roses of white -marble and wreaths of palm-branches, most exquisitely sculptured, enrich -every part of the edifice. I never saw Corinthian capitals better -modelled, or executed with more precision and sharpness, than those of -the columns which support the nave. - -Having satisfied our curiosity by examining the various ornaments of the -altars, we followed our conductor through a long coved gallery into the -sacristy, a magnificent vaulted hall, panelled with some beautiful -varieties of alabaster and porphyry, and carpeted, as well as a chapel -adjoining it, in a style of the utmost magnificence. We traversed -several more halls and chapels, adorned with equal splendour, till we -were fatigued and bewildered like errant knights in the mazes of an -enchanted palace. - -I began to think there was no end to these spacious apartments. The monk -who preceded us, a good-natured, slobbering greybeard, taking for -granted that I could not understand a syllable of his language, -attempted to explain the objects which presented themselves by signs, -and would hardly believe his ears, when I asked him in good Portuguese -when we should have done with chapels and sacristies. The old fellow -seemed vastly delighted with the Meninos, as he called Don Pedro and me; -and to give our young legs an opportunity of stretching themselves, -trotted along with such expedition that the Marquis and Verdeil wished -him in purgatory. To be sure, we advanced at a most rapid rate, striding -from one end to the other of a dormitory, six hundred feet in length, in -a minute or two. These vast corridors, and the cells with which they -communicate, three hundred in number, are all arched in the most -sumptuous and solid manner. Every cell, or rather chamber, for they are -sufficiently spacious, lofty, and well lighted, to merit that -appellation, is furnished with tables and cabinets of Brazil-wood. - -Just as we entered the library, the Abbot of the convent, dressed in his -ceremonial habit, advanced to bid us welcome, and invite us to dine with -him to-morrow, St. Augustine's day, in the refectory; which it seems is -a mighty compliment. We thought proper, however, to decline the honour, -being aware that, to enjoy it, we must sacrifice at least two hours of -our time, and be half parboiled by the steam of huge roasted calves, -turkeys, and gruntlings, which had long been fattening, no doubt, for -this solemn occasion. - -The library is of a prodigious length, not less than three hundred feet; -the arched roof of a pleasing form, beautifully stuccoed, and the -pavement of red and white marble. Much cannot be said in praise of the -cases in which the books are to be arranged. They are clumsily designed, -coarsely executed, and darkened by a gallery which projects into the -room in a very awkward manner. The collection, which consists of above -sixty thousand volumes, is locked up at present in a suite of apartments -which opens into the library. Several well preserved and richly -illuminated first editions of the Greek and Roman classics were handed -to me by the father librarian; but my nimble conductor would not allow -me much time to examine them. He set off full speed, and, ascending a -winding staircase, led us out upon the roof of the convent and palace, -which form a broad, smooth terrace, bounded by a magnificent balustrade, -unincumbered by chimneys, and commanding a bird's-eye view of the courts -and garden. - -From this elevation the whole plan of the edifice may be comprehended at -a glance. In the centre rises the dome, like a beautiful temple from the -spacious walks of a royal garden. It is infinitely superior, in point of -design, to the rest of the edifice, and may certainly be reckoned among -the lightest and best proportioned in Europe. Don Pedro and Monsieur -Verdeil proposed scaling a ladder which leads up to the lantern, but I -begged to be excused accompanying them, and amused myself during their -absence with ranging about the extensive loggias, now and then venturing -a look down on the courts and parterres so far below; but oftener -enjoying the prospect of the towers shining bright in the sunbeams, and -the azure bloom of the distant sea. A fresh balsamic air wafted from the -orchards of citron and orange, fanned me as I rested on the steps of the -dome, and tempered the warmth of the glowing ther. - -But I was soon driven from this cloudless, peaceful situation, by a -confounded jingle of all the bells; then followed a most complicated -sonata, banged off on the chimes by a great proficient. The Marquis, who -had climbed up on purpose to enjoy this cataract of what some persons -call melodious sounds at its fountainhead, would have me approach to -examine the mechanism, and I was half stunned. I know very little indeed -about chimes and clocks, and am quite at a loss for amusement in a -belfry. My friend, who inherits a mechanical turn from his father, the -renowned patron of clocks and time-pieces, investigated every wheel with -minute attention. - -His survey finished, we descended innumerable stairs, and retired to the -Capitan Mor's, whose jurisdiction extends over the park and district of -Mafra. He has seven or eight thousand crusadoes a year, and his -habitation wears every appearance of comfort and opulence. The floors -are covered with mats of the finest texture, the doors hung with red -damask curtains, and our beds, quite new for the occasion, spread with -satin coverlids richly embroidered and fringed. We had a most luxurious -repast, and a better dessert than even the monks could have given -us--the Capitan Mor taking the dishes from his long train of servants, -and placing them himself on the table, quite in the feudal style. - -After coffee we hurried to vespers in the great church of the convent, -and advancing between the range of illuminated chapels, took our places -in the royal tribune. We were no sooner seated than the monks entered in -procession, preceding their abbot, who ascended his throne, having a row -of sacristans at his feet and canons on his right hand, in their cloth -of gold embroidered vestments. The service was chaunted with the most -imposing solemnity to the awful sound of organs, for there are no fewer -than six in the church, all of an enormous size. - -When it was ended, being once more laid hold of by the nimble -lay-brother, we were conducted up a magnificent staircase into the -palace. The suite extends seven or eight hundred feet, and the almost -endless succession of lofty doors seen in perspective, strikes with -astonishment; but we were soon weary of being merely astonished, and -agreed to pronounce the apartments the dullest and most comfortless we -had ever beheld; there is no variety in their shape, and little in their -dimensions. The furniture being all locked up at Lisbon, a naked -sameness universally prevails; not a niche, not a cornice, not a curved -moulding breaks the tedious uniformity of dead white walls. - -I was glad to return to the convent and refresh my eyes with the sight -of marble pillars, and my feet by treading on Persian carpets. We were -followed wherever we moved, into every cell, chapel, hall, passage, or -sacristy, by a strange medley of inquisitive monks, sacristans, -lay-brothers, corregidors, village-curates, and country beaux with long -rapiers and pigtails. If I happened to ask a question, half-a-dozen all -at once poked their necks out to answer it, like turkey-polts when -addressed in their native hobble-gobble dialect. The Marquis was quite -sick of being trotted after in this tumultuous manner, and tried several -times to leave the crowd behind him, by taking sudden turns; but -sticking close to our heels, it baffled all his endeavours, and -increased to such a degree, that we seemed to have swept the whole -convent and village of their inhabitants, and to draw them after us by -one of those supernatural attractions we read of in tales and romances. - -At length, perceiving a large door open into the garden, we bolted out, -and striking into a labyrinth of myrtles and laurels, got rid of our -pursuers. The garden, which is about a mile and a half in circumference, -contains, besides wild thickets of pine and bay-trees, several orchards -of lemon and orange, and two or three parterres more filled with weeds -than flowers. I was much disgusted at finding this beautiful inclosure -so wretchedly neglected, and its luxuriant plants withering away for -want of being properly watered. - -You may suppose, that after adding a walk in the principal alleys of the -garden to our other peregrinations, we began to find ourselves somewhat -fatigued, and were not sorry to repose ourselves in the Abbot's -apartment till we were summoned once more to our tribune to hear matins -performed. It was growing dark, and the innumerable tapers burning -before the altars and in every part of the church, began to diffuse a -mysterious light. The organs joined again in full accord, the long -series of monks and novices entered with slow and solemn steps, and the -Abbot resumed his throne with the same pomp as at vespers. The Marquis -began muttering his orisons, the Grand Prior to recite his breviary, and -I to fall into a profound reverie, which lasted as long as the service, -that is to say above two hours. Verdeil, ready to expire with ennui, -could not help leaving the tribune and the cloud of incense which filled -the choir, to breathe a freer air in the body of the church and its -adjoining chapels. - -It was almost nine when the monks, after chaunting a most solemn and -sonorous hymn in praise of their venerable father, Saint Augustine, -quitted the choir. We followed their procession through lofty chapels -and arched cloisters, which by a glimmering light appeared to have -neither roof nor termination, till it entered an octagon forty feet in -diameter, with fountains in the four principal angles. The monks, after -dispersing to wash their hands at the several fountains, again resumed -their order, and passed two-and-two under a portal thirty feet high into -a vast hall, communicating with their refectory by another portal of the -same lofty dimensions. Here the procession made a pause, for this -chamber is consecrated to the remembrance of the departed, and styled -the Hall de Profundis. Before every repast, the monks standing round it -in solemn ranks, silently revolve in their minds the precariousness of -our frail existence, and offer up prayers for the salvation of their -predecessors. I could not help being struck with awe when I beheld by -the glow of flaming lamps, so many venerable figures in their black and -white habits bending their eyes on the pavement, and absorbed in the -most interesting and gloomy of meditations. - -The moment allotted to this solemn supplication being passed, every one -took his place at the long tables in the refectory, which are made of -Brazil-wood, and covered with the whitest linen. Each monk had his -glass caraffe of water and wine, his plate of apples and salad set -before him; neither fish nor flesh were served up, the vigil of St. -Augustine's day being observed as a fast with the utmost strictness. - -To enjoy at a glance this singular and majestic spectacle, we retreated -to a vestibule preceding the octagon, and from thence looked through all -the portals down the long row of lamps into the refectory, which, owing -to its vast length of full two hundred feet, seemed ending in a point. -After remaining a few minutes to enjoy this perspective, four monks -advanced with torches to light us out of the convent, and bid us -good-night with many bows and genuflections. - -Our supper at the Capitan Mor's was very cheerful. We sat up late, -notwithstanding our fatigue, talking over the variety of objects that -had passed before our eyes in so short a space of time, the crowd of -grotesque figures which had stuck to our heels so long and so closely, -and the awkward vivacity of the lay-brother. - - - - -LETTER XXIII. - - High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave Mafra.--An - accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful view from it. - - -August 28th, 1787. - -I was half asleep, half awake, when the sonorous bells of the convent -struck my ears. The Marquis and Don Pedro's voices in earnest -conversation with the Capitan Mor in the adjoining chamber, completely -roused me. We swallowed our coffee in haste; the Grand Prior reluctantly -left his pillow, and accompanied us to high mass. The monks once more -exerted their efforts to prevail on us to dine with them; but we -remained inflexible, and to avoid their importunities hastened away, as -soon as mass was ended, to the Viscount Ponte de Lima's gardens, where -the deep shade of the bay and ilex skreened us from the excessive heat -of the sun. - -The Marquis, seating himself by me near one of those clear and copious -fountains with which this magnificent Italian-looking garden is -refreshed and enlivened, entered into a most serious and semi-official -discourse about my stay in Portugal, and the means which were projecting -in a very high quarter to render it not only pleasant to myself, but of -some importance to many others. - - * * * * * - -I felt relieved when the appearance of Don Pedro and his uncle, who had -been walking to the end of an immensely long avenue of pines, warded off -a conversation that began to press hard upon me. We returned altogether -to the Capitan Mor's, and found dinner ready. - -Both Don Pedro and myself were sorry to leave Mafra, and should have had -no objection to another race along the cloisters and dormitories with -the lay-brother. The evening was bright and clear, and the azure tints -of the distant sea inexpressibly lovely. We drove with a tumultuous -rapidity over the rough-paved roads, that the Marquis and I could hardly -hear a word we said to each other. Don Pedro had mounted his horse. -Verdeil, who preceded us in the carinho, seemed to outstrip the winds. -His mule, one of the most fiery and gigantic of her species, excited by -repeated floggings and the shout of a hulking Portuguese postilion, -perched up behind the carriage, galloped at an ungovernable rate; and at -about a league from the rocks of Cintra, thought proper to jerk out its -drivers into the midst of some bushes at the foot of a lofty bank, -nearly perpendicular, where they still remained sprawling when we passed -by. - -Verdeil hobbled up to us, and pointed to the carinho in the ditch below. -Except a slight contusion in the knee, he had received no hurt. I -exclaimed immediately, that his escape was miraculous, and that, -doubtless, St. Anthony had some hand in it. My friend, who has always -the horrors of heresy before his eyes, whispered me that the devil had -saved him this time, but might not be so favourably disposed another. - -It was not half-past five, when we reached Cintra. The Marchioness, the -Abade, and the children, were waiting our arrival. - -Feeling my head in a whirl, and my ideas as much jolted and jumbled as -my body, I returned home just before it fell dark, to enjoy a few hours -of uninterrupted calm. The scenery of my ample saloon, its air of -seclusion, its silence, seemed to breathe a momentary tranquillity over -my spirits. The mat smoothly laid down, and formed of the finest and -most glossy straw, assumed by candlelight a delightful, soft, and -harmonious colour. It looked so cool and glistening that I stretched -myself upon it. There did I lie supine, contemplating the serene -summer-sky, and the moon rising slowly from behind the brow of a shrubby -hill. A faint breeze blowing aside the curtains, discovered the summit -of the woods in the garden, and beyond, a wide expanse of country, -terminated by plains of sea and hazy promontories. - - - - -LETTER XXIV. - - A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing - stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful - funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde. - - -August 29th, 1787. - -It was furiously hot, and I trifled away the whole morning in my -pavilion, surrounded by fidalgos in flowered bed-gowns, and musicians in -violet-coloured accoutrements, with broad straw-hats, like bonzes or -talapoins, looking as sunburnt, vacant, and listless, as the inhabitants -of Ormus or Bengal; so that my company as well as my apartment wore the -most decided oriental appearance: the divan raised a few inches above -the floor, the gilt trellis-work of the windows, and the pellucid -streams of water rising from a tank immediately beneath them, supplied -in endless succession by springs from the native rock. - -An agreeable variety prevails in my Asiatic saloon; half its curtains -admit no light, and display the richest folds; the other half are -transparent, and cast a mild glow on the mat and sofas. Large clear -mirrors multiply this profusion of drapery, and several of my guests -seemed never tired of running from corner to corner, to view the -different groups of objects reflected on all sides in the most -unexpected directions, as if they fancied themselves admitted by -enchantment to peep into a labyrinth of magic chambers. - -One of the party, a very shrewd old Italian priest, who had left his -native land before the too-famous earthquake shook more than the half of -Lisbon to its foundations, told me he remembered an apartment a good -deal in this style, that is to say, bedecked with mirrors and curtains, -in a sort of fairy palace communicating with the Nunnery of Odivellas, -so famous for the pious retirement of that paragon of splendour and -holiness, King John the Fifth. These were delightful days for the -monarch and the fair companions of his devotions. - -"Oh!" said the old priest very judiciously, "of what avail is the finest -cage without birds to enliven it? Had you but heard the celestial -harmony of King John's recluses, you would never have sat down contented -in your fine tent with the squalling of sopranos and the grumbling of -bass-viols. The silver, virgin tones I allude to, proceeding from the -holy recess into which no other male mortal except the monarch was ever -allowed to penetrate, had an effect I still remember with ecstasy, -though at the distance of so many years. Four of our finest singers, two -from Venice and two from Naples, attracted by a truly regal munificence, -added all that the most consummate taste and science could give to the -best voices in Portugal; the result was perfection." - -Aguilar, who came to dine with us, and whose mother, when in the bloom -of youth and beauty, had been not unfrequently invited to act the part -of perhaps more than audience at these edifying parties, confirmed all -the wonders the old Italian narrated, and added not a few of the same -gold and ruby colour in a strain so extravagantly enthusiastic, that -were I to repeat even half the glittering anecdotes he favoured me with, -upon the subject of Don John the Fifth's unbounded fervour and -magnificence, your imagination would be completely dazzled. - -Just as we had removed from the dinner to the dessert-table, which was -spread out upon a terrace fronting the principal alley of the gardens, -entered the abade Xavier, in full cry, with a rapturous story of the -conversion of an old consumptive Englishwoman, who, it seems, finding -herself upon the eve of departure, had called for a priest, to whom she -might confess, and abjure her errors of every description. Happening to -lodge at the Cintra inn, kept by a most flaming Irish Catholic, her -commendable desires were speedily complied with, and Mascarenhas and -Acciaoli, and two or three other priests and monsignors, summoned to -further the good work. - -"Great," said the abade, "are our rejoicings upon the occasion. This -very evening the aged innocent is to be buried in triumph: Marialva, San -Lorenzo, Asseca, and several more of the principal nobility are already -assembled to grace the festival; suppose you were to come with me and -join the procession?" - -"With all my heart," did I reply; "although I have no great taste for -funerals, so gay a one as this you talk of may form an exception." - -Off we set, driving as fast as most excellent mules could carry us, lest -we should come too late for the entertainment. A great mob was assembled -before the door. At one of the windows stood the grand prior, looking as -if he wished himself a thousand leagues away, and reciting his breviary. -I went up-stairs, and was immediately surrounded by the old Conde de San -Lorenzo and other believers, overflowing with congratulations. -Mascarenhas, one of the soundest limbs of the patriarchal establishment, -a capital devotee and seraphic doctor, was introduced to me. Acciaoli, -whom I was before acquainted with, skipped about the room, rubbing his -hands for joy, with a cunning leer on his jovial countenance, and -snapping his fingers at Satan, as much as to say, "I don't care a d---- -n for you. We have got one at least safe out of your clutches, and clear -at this very moment of the smoke of your cauldron." - -There was such a bustle in the interior apartment where the wretched -corpse was deposited, such a chaunting and praying, for not a tongue -was idle, that my head swam round, and I took refuge by the grand prior. -He by no means relished the party, and kept shrugging up his shoulders, -and saying that it was very edifying--very edifying indeed, and that -Acciaoli had been extremely alert, extremely active, and deserved great -commendation, but that so much fuss might as well have been spared. - -By some hints that dropped, I won't say from whom, I discovered the -innocent now on the high road to eternal felicity by no means to have -suffered the cup of joy to pass by untasted in this existence, and to -have lived many years on a very easy footing, not only with a stout -English bachelor, but with several others, married and unmarried, of his -particular acquaintance. However, she had taken a sudden tack upon -finding herself driven apace down the tide of a rapid consumption, and -had been fairly towed into port by the joint efforts of the Irish -hostess and the monsignori Mascarenhas and Acciaoli. - -"Thrice happy Englishwoman," exclaimed M--a, "what luck is thine! In -the next world immediate admission to paradise, and in this thy body -will have the proud distinction of being borne to the grave by men of -the highest rank.--Was there ever such felicity?" - -The arrival of a band of priests and sacristans, with tapers lighted and -cross erected, called us to the scene of action. The procession being -marshalled, the corpse, dressed in virgin-white, lying snug in a sort of -rose-coloured bandbox with six silvered handles, was brought forth. -M----, who abhors the sight of a dead body, reddened up to his ears, and -would have given a good sum to make an honourable retreat; but no -retreat could now have been made consistent with piety: he was obliged -to conquer his disgust and take a handle of the bier. Another was placed -in the murderous gripe of the notorious San Vicente; another fell to the -poor old snuffling Conde de San Lorenzo; a fourth to the Viscount -d'Asseca, a mighty simple-looking young gentleman; the fifth and sixth -were allotted to the Capita Mor of Cintra, and to the judge, a gaunt -fellow with a hang-dog countenance. - -No sooner did the grand prior catch sight of the ghastly visage of the -dead body as it was being conveyed down-stairs in the manner I have -recited, than he made an attempt to move on, and precede instead of -following the procession; but Acciaoli, who acted as master of the -ceremonies, would not let him off so easily: he allotted him the post of -honour immediately at the head of the corpse, and placed himself at his -left hand, giving the right to Mascarenhas. All the bells of Cintra -struck up a cheerful peal, and to their merry jinglings we hurried along -through a dense cloud of dust, a rabble of children frolicking on either -side, and their grandmothers hobbling after, telling their beads, and -grinning from ear to ear at this triumph over the prince of darkness. - -Happily the way to the church was not long, or the dust would have -choked us. The grand prior kept his mouth close not to admit a particle -of it, but Acciaoli and his colleague were too full of their fortunate -exploit not to chatter incessantly. Poor old San Lorenzo, who is fat, -squat, and pursy, gasping for breath, stopped several times to rest on -his journey. Marialva, whom disgust rendered heartily fatigued with his -burthen, was very glad likewise to make a pause or two. - -We found all the altars in the church blazing with lights, the grave -gaping for its immaculate inhabitant, and a numerous detachment of -priests and choristers waiting to receive the procession. The moment it -entered, the same hymn which is sung at the interment of babes and -sucklings burst forth from a hundred youthful voices, incense arose in -clouds, and joy and gladness shone in the eyes of the whole -congregation. - -A murmur of applause and congratulation went round anew, those whom it -most concerned receiving with great affability and meekness the -compliments of the occasion. Old San Lorenzo, waddling up to the grand -prior, hugged him in his arms, and strewing him all over with snuff, set -him violently a-sneezing. San Vicente, as soon as the innocent was -safely deposited, retired in a sort of dudgeon, being never rightly at -ease in the presence of his brother-in-law Marialva. As for the latter -warm-hearted nobleman, exultation and triumph carried him beyond all -bounds of decorum. He scoffed bitterly at heretics, represented in their -true colours the actual happiness of the convert, and just as we left -the church, cried out loud enough for all those who were near to have -heard him, "_Elle se f----iche de nous tous prsent._" - -Their pious toil being ended, Mascarenhas and Acciaoli accompanied us to -the heights of Penha Verde, to breathe a fresh air under the odoriferous -pines: then, returning in our company to Ramalha, partook of a nice -collation of iced fruit and sweetmeats, and concluded the evening with -much gratifying discourse about the lively scene we had just witnessed. - - - - -LETTER XXV. - - Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. - Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The old Consul - and his tray of jewels. - - -The principal personages who had so piously distinguished themselves -yesterday dined with me this blessed afternoon. Old San Lorenzo has a -prodigious memory and a warm imagination, rendered still more glowing by -a slight touch of madness. He appears perfectly well acquainted with the -general politics of Europe, and though never beyond the limits of -Portugal, gave so circumstantial and plausible a detail of what -occurred, and of the part he himself acted at the congress of -Aix-la-Chapelle, that I was completely his dupe, and believed, until I -was let into the secret, that he had actually witnessed what he only -dreamt of. Notwithstanding the high favour he enjoyed with the infante -Don Pedro, Pombal cast him into a dungeon with the other victims of the -Aveiro conspiracy, and for eighteen most melancholy years was his active -mind reduced to prey upon itself for sustenance. - -Upon the present queen's accession he was released, and found his -intimate friend the Infante sharing the throne; but thinking himself -somewhat coolly received and shabbily neglected, he threw the key of -chamberlain which was sent him into a place of less dignity than -convenience, and retired to the convent of the Necessidades. No means, I -have been assured, were left untried by the king to soothe and flatter -him; but they all proved fruitless. Since this period, though he quitted -the convent, he has never appeared at court, and has refused all -employment. Devotion now absorbs his entire soul. Except when the chord -of imprisonment and Pombal is touched upon, he is calm and reasonable. I -found him extremely so to-day, and full of the most instructive and -amusing anecdote. - -Coffee over, my company having stretched themselves out at full-length -most comfortably, some on the mat, and some on the sofas, to recruit -their spirits I suppose, after the pious toils and enthusiastic -procession of the day before, I prevailed upon Marialva to escort me to -Mrs. Guildermeester's, whom we found in a vast but dingy saloon, her -toads squatting around her. She gave us some excellent tea, and a plain -sensible loaf of brown bread, accompanied by delicious butter, just -fresh from a genuine Dutch dairy, conducted upon the most immaculate -Dutch principles. Donna Genuefa, the toad-passive in waiting, is a -little jossish old woman, with a head as round as a humming-top, and a -large placid lip, very smiling and good-natured. Miss Coster, the -toad-active, has been rather pretty a few years ago, makes tea with -decorum, shuts doors and opens windows with judgment, and has a good -deal to say for herself when allowed to sit still on her chair. - -We had scarcely begun complimenting the mistress of the house upon the -complete success of her cow-establishment, when the old consul her -spouse entered, with many bows and salutations, bearing a huge japan -tray, upon which was spread out in glittering profusion an ample -treasure, both of rough and well-lapidated brilliants, the fruits of his -famous and most lucrative contract in the days of Pombal. Some of the -largest diamonds, in superb though heavy Dutch or German settings, he -eagerly desired Marialva would recommend to the attention of the queen, -and whispered in my ear that he hoped I also would speak a good word for -him. I remained as deaf as an adder, and the Marquis as blind as a -beetle, to the splendour of the display; so he returned once more to his -interior cabinet, with all his hopes out of blossom, and we moved off. - -Evening was drawing on, and a drizzling mist overspreading the crags of -Cintra. It did not, however, prevent us from going to Mr. Horne's. We -passed under arching elms and chesnuts, whose moistened foliage exhaled -a fresh woody odour. High above the vapours, which were rolling away -just as we emerged from the shady avenue, appeared the turret of the -convent of the Penha, faintly tinted by the last rays of the sun, and -looking down, like the ark on Mount Ararat, on a sea of undulating -clouds. - -At Horne's, Aguilar, Bezerra, and the usual set were assembled. The -Marquis, as soon as he had made his condescending bows to the right and -left, retired to his villa, and I took Horne in my chaise to Mrs. -Staits, a little slender-waisted, wild-eyed woman, by no means -unpleasing or flinty-hearted. It was her birthday, and she had -congregated most of the English at Cintra, in a damp garden about -seventy feet long by thirty-two, illuminated by thirty or forty -lanterns. Mrs. Guildermeester was there, covered with diamonds, and -sparkling like a star in the midst of this murky atmosphere. We had a -cold funereal supper, under a low tent in imitation of a grotto. - -Mrs. Staits' well-disposed, easy-tempered husband placed me next Mrs. -Guildermeester, who amused herself tolerably well at the expense of the -entertainment. The dingy, subterraneous appearance of the booth, the wan -light of the lanterns sparingly scattered along it, and the fragrance of -a dish of rather mature prawns placed under my nose, seized me with the -idea of being dead and buried. "Alas!" said I to my fair neighbour, "it -is all over with us now, and this our first banquet in the infernal -regions; we are all equal and jumbled together. There sits the pious -presbyterian Mrs. Fussock, with that bridling miss her daughter, and -close to them those adulterous doves, Mr. ---- and his sultana. Here am -I, miserable sinner, right opposite your righteous and much enduring -spouse; a little lower our kind host, that pattern of conjugal meekness -and resignation. Hark! don't you hear a lumbering noise? They are -letting down a cargo of heavy bodies into a neighbouring tomb." - -In this strain did we continue till the subject was exhausted, and it -was time to take our departure. - - - - -LETTER XXVI. - - Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke - d'Alafoins.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of the - Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. - - -Sept. 10th, 1787. - -Adieu to the tranquillity of Cintra, we shall soon have nothing but -hubbub and confusion. The queen is on the point of arriving with all her -maids of honour, secretaries of state, dwarfs, negresses and horses, -white, black, and pie-bald. Half the quintas around will be dried up, -military possession having been taken of the aqueducts, and their waters -diverted into new channels for the use of an encampment. - -I was walking in a long arched bower of citron-trees, when M---- -appeared at the end of the avenue, accompanied by the duke d'Alafoins. -This is the identical personage well-known in every part of Europe by -the appellation of Duke of Braganza. He has no right however, to wear -that illustrious title, which is merged in the crown. Were he called -Duchess Dowager, of anything you please, I think nobody would dispute -the propriety of his style, he being so like an old lady of the -bed-chamber, so fiddle-faddle and so coquettish. He had put on rouge and -patches, and though he has seen seventy winters, contrived to turn on -his heel and glide about with juvenile agility. - -I was much surprised at the ease of his motions, having been told that -he was a martyr to the gout. After lisping French with a most refined -accent, complaining of the sun, and the roads, and the state of -architecture, he departed, (thank heaven!) to mark out a spot for the -encampment of the cavalry, which are to guard the queen's sacred person -during her residence in these mountains. M---- was in duty bound to -accompany him; but left his son and his nephews, the heirs of the House -of Tancos, to dine with me. - -In the evening, Verdeil, tired with sauntering about the verandas, -proposed a ride to a neighbouring village, where there was a fair. He -and Don Pedro mounted their horses, and preceded the young Tancos and me -in a garden-chair, drawn by a most resolute mule. The roads are -abominable, and lay partly along the sloping base of the Cintra -mountains, which in the spring, no doubt, are clothed with a tolerable -verdure, but at this season every blade of grass is parched and -withered. Our carriage-wheels, as we drove sideling along these slippery -declivities, pressed forth the odour of innumerable aromatic herbs, half -pulverized. Thicknesse perhaps would have said, in his original quaint -style, that nature was treating us with a pinch of her best cephalic. No -snuff, indeed, ever threw me into a more violent fit of sneezing. - -I could hardly keep up my head when we arrived at the fair, which is -held on a pleasant lawn, bounded on one side by the picturesque -buildings of a convent of Hieronimites, and on the other by rocky hills, -shattered into a variety of uncouth romantic forms; one cliff in -particular, called the Pedra d'os Ovos, terminated by a cross, crowns -the assemblage, and exhibits a very grotesque appearance. Behind the -convent a thick shrubbery of olives, ilex, and citron, fills up a small -valley refreshed by fountains, whose clear waters are conducted through -several cloisters and gardens, surrounded by low marble columns, -supporting fretted arches in the morisco style. - -The peasants assembled at the fair were scattered over the lawn; some -conversing with the monks, others half intoxicated, sliding off their -donkeys and sprawling upon the ground; others bargaining for silk-nets -and spangled rings, to bestow on their mistresses. The monks, who were -busily employed in administering all sorts of consolations, spiritual -and temporal, according to their respective ages and vocations, happily -paid us no kind of attention, so we escaped being stuffed with -sweetmeats, and worried with compliments. - -At sunset we returned to Ramalha, and drank tea in its lantern-like -saloon, in which are no less than eleven glazed doors and windows of -large dimensions. The winds were still; the air balsamic; and the sky of -so soft an azure that we could not remain with patience under any other -canopy, but stept once more into our curricles and drove as far as the -Dutch consul's new building, by the mingled light of innumerable stars. - -It was after ten when we got back to the Marialva villa, and long before -we reached it, we heard the plaintive tones of voices and wind -instruments issuing from the thickets. On the margin of the principal -basin sat the marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, and a numerous group of -their female attendants, many of them most graceful figures, and -listening with all their hearts and souls to the rehearsal of some very -delightful music with which her majesty is to be serenaded a few -evenings hence. - -It was one of those serene and genial nights when music acquires a -double charm, and opens the heart to tender, though melancholy -impressions. Not a leaf rustled, not a breath of wind disturbed the -clear flame of the lights which had been placed near the fountains, and -which just served to make them visible. The waters, flowing in rills -round the roots of the lemon-trees, formed a rippling murmur; and in the -pauses of the concert, no other sound except some very faint whisperings -was to be distinguished, so that the enchantment of climate, music, and -mystery, all contributed to throw my mind into a sort of trance from -which I was not roused again without a degree of painful reluctance. - - - - -LETTER XXVII. - - Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular - invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and - shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. - - -September 12th, 1787. - -I was hardly up before the grand prior and Mr. Street were announced: -the latter abusing kings, queens, and princes, with all his might, and -roaring after liberty and independence; the former complaining of fogs -and damps. - -As soon as the advocate for republicanism had taken his departure, we -went by appointment to the archbishop confessor's, and were immediately -admitted into his _sanctum sanctorum_, a snug apartment communicating by -a winding staircase with that of the queen, and hung with bright, lively -tapestry. A lay-brother, fat, round, buffoonical, and to the full as -coarse and vulgar as any carter or muleteer in christendom, entertained -us with some very amusing, though not the most decent, palace stories, -till his patron came forth. - -Those who expect to see the Grand Inquisitor of Portugal, a doleful, -meagre figure, with eyes of reproof and malediction, would be -disappointed. A pleasanter or more honest countenance than that kind -heaven has blessed him with, one has seldom the comfort of looking upon. -He received me in the most open, cordial manner, and I have reason to -think I am in mighty favour. - -We talked about archbishops in England being married. "Pray," said the -prelate, "are not your archbishops strange fellows? consecrated in -ale-houses, and good bottle companions? I have been told that mad-cap -Lord Tyrawley was an archbishop at home." You may imagine how much I -laughed at this inconceivable nonsense; and though I cannot say, -speaking of his right reverence, that "truths divine came mended from -his tongue," it may be allowed, that nonsense itself became more -conspicuously nonsensical, flowing from so revered a source. - -Whilst we sat in the windows of the saloon, listening to a band of -regimental music, we saw Joa Antonio de Castro, the ingenious -mechanician, who invented the present method of lighting Lisbon, two or -three solemn dominicans, and a famous court fool[18] in a tawdry -gala-suit, bedizened with mock orders, coming up the steps which lead to -the great audience-chamber, all together. "Ay, ay," said the -lay-brother, who is a shrewd, comical fellow, "behold a true picture of -our customers. Three sorts of persons find their way most readily into -this palace; men of superior abilities, buffoons, and saints; the first -soon lose what cleverness they possessed, the saints become martyrs, and -the buffoons alone prosper." - -To all this the Archbishop gave his hearty assent by a very significant -nod of the head; and being, as I have already told you, in a most -gracious, communicative disposition, would not permit me to go away, -when I rose up to take leave of him. - -"No, no," said he, "don't think of quitting me yet awhile. Let us repair -to the hall of Swans, where all the court are waiting for me, and pray -tell me then what you think of our great fidalgos." - -Taking me by the tip of the fingers he led me along through a number of -shady rooms and dark passages to a private door, which opened from the -queen's presence-chamber, into a vast saloon, crowded, I really believe, -by half the dignitaries of the kingdom; here were bishops, heads of -orders, secretaries of state, generals, lords of the bedchamber, and -courtiers of all denominations, as fine and as conspicuous as -embroidered uniforms, stars, crosses, and gold keys could make them. - -The astonishment of this group at our sudden apparition was truly -laughable, and indeed, no wonder; we must have appeared on the point of -beginning a minuet--the portly archbishop in his monastic, flowing white -drapery, spreading himself out like a turkey in full pride, and myself -bowing and advancing in a sort of _pas-grave_, blinking all the while -like an owl in sunshine, thanks to my rapid transition from darkness to -the most glaring daylight. - -Down went half the party upon their knees, some with petitions and some -with memorials; those begging for places and promotions, and these for -benedictions, of which my revered conductor was by no means prodigal. He -seemed to treat all these eager demonstrations of fawning servility with -the most contemptuous composure, and pushing through the crowd which -divided respectfully to give us passage, beckoned the Viscount Ponte de -Lima, the Marquis of Lavradio, the Count d'Obidos, and two or three of -the lords in waiting, into a mean little room, not above twenty by -fourteen. - -After a deal of adulatory complimentation in a most subdued tone from -the circle of courtiers, for which they had got nothing in return but -rebuffs and gruntling, the Archbishop drew his chair close to mine, and -said with a very distinct and audible pronunciation, "My dear -Englishman, these are all a parcel of flattering scoundrels, do not -believe one word they say to you. Though they glitter like gold, mud is -not meaner--I know them well. Here," continued he, holding up the flap -of my coat, "is a proof of English prudence, this little button to -secure the pocket is a precious contrivance, especially in grand -company, do not leave it off, do not adopt any of our fashions, or you -will repent it." - -This sally of wit was received with the most resigned complacency by -those who had inspired it, and, staring with all my eyes, and listening -with all my ears, I could hardly credit either upon seeing the most -complaisant gesticulations, and hearing the most abject protestations of -devoted attachment to his right reverence's sacred person from all the -company. - -There is no saying how long this tide of adulation would have continued -pouring on, if it had not been interrupted by a message from the queen, -commanding the confessor's immediate attendance. Giving his garments a -hearty shake, he trudged off bawling out to me over his shoulder, "I -shall be back in half-an-hour, and you must dine with me."--"Dine with -him!" exclaimed the company in chorus: "such an honour never befel any -one of us; how fortunate! how distinguished you are!" - -Now, I must confess, I was by no means enchanted with this most peculiar -invitation; I had a much pleasanter engagement at Penha-Verde, one of -the coolest and most romantic spots in all this poetic district, and -felt no vocation to be cooped up in a close bandboxical apartment, -smelling of paint and varnish enough to give the head-ache; however, -there was no getting off. I was told that I must obey, for everybody in -these regions, high or low, the royal family themselves not excepted, -obeyed the archbishop, and that I ought to esteem myself too happy in so -agreeable an opportunity. - -It would be only repeating what is known to every one, who knows any -thing of courts and courtiers, were I to add the flowery speeches, the -warm encomiums, I received from the finest feathered birds of this covey -upon my own transcendant perfections, and those of my host that was to -be. The half-hour, which, by-the-by, was more than three-quarters, -scarcely sufficed for half those very people had to say in my -commendation, who, a few days ago, were all reserve and indifference, if -I happened to approach them. My summons to this envied repast was -conveyed to me by no less a personage than the Marquis of M----, who, -with gladsome surprise in all his gestures, whispered me, "I am to be of -the party too, the first time in my life I can assure you; not a -creature besides is to be admitted; for my uncle is gone home tired of -waiting for you." - -We knocked at the private door, which was immediately opened, and -following the same passages through which I had been before conducted, -emerged into an ante-chamber looking into a very neat little kitchen, -where the lay-brother, with his sleeves tucked up to his shoulders, was -making hospitable preparation. A table with three covers was prepared in -the tapestry-room, and upon a sofa, in the corner of it, sat the -omnipotent prelate wrapped up in an old snuff-coloured great coat, sadly -patched and tattered. - -"Come," said he, clapping his hands after the oriental fashion, "serve -up and let us be merry--oh, these women, these women, above stairs, what -a plague it is to settle their differences! Who knows better than you, -Marquis, what enigmas they are to unriddle? I dare say the Englishman's -archbishops have not half such puzzles to get over as I have: well, let -us see what we have got for you." - -Entered the lay-brother with three roasting-pigs, on a huge tray of -massive silver, and an enormous pillau, as admirable in quality as in -size; and so it had need to have been, for in these two dishes consisted -our whole dinner. I am told the fare at the Archbishop's table never -varies, and roasting-pigs succeed roasting-pigs, and pillaus pillaus, -throughout all the vicissitudes of the seasons, except on certain -peculiar fast-days of supreme meagre. - -The simplicity of this part of our entertainment was made up by the -profusion and splendour of our dessert, which exceeded in variety of -fruits and sweetmeats any one of which I had ever partaken. As to the -wines, they were admirable, the tribute of every part of the Portuguese -dominions offered up at this holy shrine. The Port Company, who are just -soliciting the renewal of their charter, had contributed the choicest -produce of their happiest vintages, and as I happened to commend its -peculiar excellence, my hospitable entertainer, whose good-humour seemed -to acquire every instant a livelier glow, insisted upon my accepting -several pipes of it, which were punctually sent me the next morning. The -Archbishop became quite jovial, and supposing I was not more insensible -to the joys of convivial potations than many of my countrymen, plied me -as often and as waggishly as if I had been one of his imaginary -archbishops, or Lord Tyrawley himself, returned from those cold -precincts where no dinners are given or bottle circulated. - -The lay-brother was such a fountain of anecdote, the Archbishop in such -glee, and Marialva in such jubilation at being admitted to this -confidential party, that it is impossible to say how long it would have -lasted, had not the hour of her Majesty's evening excursion approached, -and the Archbishop been called to accompany her. As Master of the Horse, -the Marquis could not dispense with his attendance, so I was left under -the guidance of the lay-brother, who, leading me through another -labyrinth of passages, opened a kind of wicket door, and let me out with -as little ceremony as he would have turned a goose adrift on a common. - - - - -LETTER XXVIII. - - Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da - Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of - Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients - exemplified. - - -Sept. 19th, 1787. - -Never did I behold so fine a day, or a sky of such lovely azure. The -M---- were with me by half-past six, and we rode over wild hills, which -command a great extent of apparently desert country; for the villages, -if there are any, are concealed in ravines and hollows. - -Intending to explore the Cintra mountains from one extremity to the -other of the range, we placed relays at different stations. Our first -object was the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha, the little romantic -pile of white buildings I had seen glittering from afar when I first -sailed by the coast of Lisbon. From this pyramidical elevation the view -is boundless: you look immediately down upon an immense expanse of sea, -the vast, unlimited Atlantic. A long series of detached clouds of a -dazzling whiteness, suspended low over the waves, had a magic effect, -and in pagan times might have appeared, without any great stretch of -fancy, the cars of marine divinities just risen from the bosom of their -element. - -There was nothing very interesting in the objects immediately around us. -The Moorish remains in the neighbourhood of the convent are scarcely -worth notice, and indeed seem never to have made part of any -considerable edifice. They were probably built up with the dilapidations -of a Roman temple, whose constructors had perhaps in their turn availed -themselves of the fragments of a Punic or Tyrian fane raised on this -high place, and blackened with the smoke of some horrible sacrifice. - -Amidst the crevices of the mouldering walls, and particularly in the -vault of a cistern, which seems to have served both as a reservoir and a -bath, I noticed some capillaries and polypodiums of infinite delicacy; -and on a little flat space before the convent a numerous tribe of -pinks, gentians, and other alpine plants, fanned and invigorated by the -pure mountain air. These refreshing breezes, impregnated with the -perfume of innumerable aromatic herbs and flowers, seemed to infuse new -life into my veins, and, with it, an almost irresistible impulse to fall -down and worship in this vast temple of Nature the source and cause of -existence. - -As we had a very extensive ride in contemplation, I could not remain -half so long as I wished on this arial and secluded summit. Descending -by a tolerably easy road, which wound amongst the rocks in many an -irregular curve, we followed for several miles a narrow tract over the -brow of savage and desolate eminences, to the Cork convent, which -answered exactly, at the first glance we caught of it, the picture one -represents to one's self of the settlement of Robinson Crusoe. Before -the entrance, formed of two ledges of ponderous rock, extends a smooth -level of greensward, browsed by cattle, whose tinkling bells filled me -with recollections of early days passed amongst wild and alpine scenery. -The Hermitage, its cells, chapel, and refectory, are all scooped out of -the native marble, and lined with the bark of the cork-tree. Several of -the passages about it are not only roofed, but floored with the same -material, extremely soft and pleasant to the feet. The shrubberies and -garden plats, dispersed amongst the mossy rocks which lie about in the -wildest confusion, are delightful, and I took great pleasure in -exploring their nooks and corners, following the course of a -transparent, gurgling rill, which is conducted through a rustic -water-shoot, between bushes of lavender and rosemary of the tenderest -green. - -The Prior of this romantic retirement is appointed by the Marialvas, and -this very day his installation takes place, so we were pressed to dine -with him upon the occasion, and could not refuse; but as it was still -very early, we galloped on, intending to visit a famous cliff, the Pedra -d'Alvidrar, which composes one of the most striking features of that -renowned promontory the Rock of Lisbon. - -Our road led us through the skirts of the woods which surround the -delightful village of Collares, to another range of barren eminences -extending along the sea-shore. I advanced to the very margin of the -cliff, which is of great height, and nearly perpendicular. A rabble of -boys followed at the heels of our horses, and five stout lads, detached -from this posse, descended with the most perfect unconcern the dreadful -precipice. One in particular walked down with his arms expanded, like a -being of a superior order. The coast is truly picturesque, and consists -of bold projections, intermixed with pyramidical rocks succeeding each -other in theatrical perspective, the most distant crowned by a lofty -tower, which serves as a lighthouse. - -No words can convey an adequate idea of the bloom of the atmosphere, and -the silvery light reflected from the sea. From the edge of the abyss, -where I had remained several minutes like one spell-bound, we descended -a winding path, about half a mile, to the beach. Here we found ourselves -nearly shut in by shattered cliffs and grottos, a fantastic -amphitheatre, the best calculated that can possibly be imagined to -invite the sports of sea nymphs. Such coves, such deep and broken -recesses, such a play of outline I never beheld, nor did I ever hear so -powerful a roar of rushing waters upon any other coast. No wonder the -warm and susceptible imagination of the ancients, inflamed by the -scenery of the place, led them to believe they distinguished the conchs -of tritons sounding in these retired caverns; nay, some grave -Lusitanians positively declared they had not only heard, but seen them, -and despatched a messenger to the Emperor Tiberius to announce the -event, and congratulate him upon so evident and auspicious a -manifestation of divinity. - -The tide was beginning to ebb, and allowed us, not without some risk -however, to pass into a cavern of surprising loftiness, the sides of -which were incrusted with beautiful limpets, and a variety of small -shells grouped together. Against some rude and porous fragments, not far -from the aperture through which we had crept, the waves swell with -violence, rush into the air, form instantaneous canopies of foam, then -fall down in a thousand trickling rills of silver. The flickering gleams -of light thrown upon irregular arches admitting into darker and more -retired grottos, the mysterious, watery gloom, the echoing murmurs and -almost musical sounds, occasioned by the conflict of winds and waters, -the strong odour of an atmosphere composed of saline particles, produced -altogether such a bewildering effect upon the senses, that I can easily -conceive a mind, poetically given, might be thrown into that kind of -tone which inclines to the belief of supernatural appearances. I am not -surprised, therefore, at the credulity of the ancients, and only wonder -my own imagination did not deceive me in a similar manner. - -If solitude could have induced the Nereids to have vouchsafed me an -apparition, it was not wanting, for all my company had separated upon -different pursuits, and had left me entirely to myself. During the full -half-hour I remained shut out from the breathing world, one solitary -corvo marino was the only living creature I caught sight of, perched -upon an insulated rock, about fifty paces from the opening of the -cavern. - -I was so stunned with the complicated sounds and murmurs which filled my -ears, that it was some moments before I could distinguish the voices of -Verdeil and Don Pedro, who were just returned from a hunt after -seaweeds and madrapores, calling me loudly to mount on horseback, and -make the best of our way to rejoin the Marquis and his attendants, all -gone to mass at the Cork convent. Happily, the little detached clouds we -had seen from the high point of Nossa Senhora da Penha, instead of -melting into the blue sky, had been gathering together, and skreened us -from the sun. We had therefore a delightful ride, and upon alighting -from our palfreys found the old abade just arrived with Luis de Miranda, -the colonel of the Cascais regiment, surrounded by a whole synod of -monks, as picturesque as bald pates and venerable beards could make -them. - -As soon as the Marquis came forth from his devotions, dinner was served -up exactly in the style one might have expected at Mequinez or -Morocco--pillaus of different kinds, delicious quails, and pyramids of -rice tinged with saffron. Our dessert, in point of fruits and -sweetmeats, was most luxurious, nor would Pomona herself have been -ashamed of carrying in her lap such peaches and nectarines as rolled in -profusion about the table. - -The abade seemed animated after dinner by the spirit of contradiction, -and would not allow the Marquis or Luis de Miranda to know more about -the court of John the Fifth, than of that of Pharaoh, king of Egypt. - -To avoid being stunned by the clamours of the dispute, in which two or -three monks with stentorian voices began to take part most vehemently, -Don Pedro, Verdeil, and I climbed up amongst the hanging shrubberies of -arbutus, bay, and myrtle, to a little platform carpeted with delicate -herbage, exhaling a fresh, aromatic perfume upon the slightest pressure. -There we sat, lulled by the murmur of distant waves, breaking over the -craggy shore we had visited in the morning. The clouds came slowly -sailing over the hills. My companions pounded the cones of the pines, -and gave me the kernels, which have an agreeable almond taste. - -The evening was far advanced before we abandoned our peaceful, -sequestered situation, and joined the Marquis, who had not been yet able -to appease the abade. The vociferous old man made so many appeals to the -father-guardian of the convent in defence of his opinions, that I -thought we never should have got away. At length we departed, and after -wandering about in clouds and darkness for two hours, reached Cintra -exactly at ten. The Marchioness and the children had been much alarmed -at our long absence, and rated the abade severely for having occasioned -it. - - - - -LETTER XXIX. - - Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the - edifices in Gaspar Poussin's landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, - said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests - displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of Visiters.--A celebrated - Prior's erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the - Apocalypse.--OEcolampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fte at the - Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf - Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired - by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of - Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumiares.--Affecting resemblance. - - -September 22nd, 1787. - -When I got up, the mists were stealing off the hills, and the distant -sea discovering itself in all its azure bloom. Though I had been led to -expect many visiters of importance from Lisbon, the morning was so -inviting that I could not resist riding out after breakfast, even at the -risk of not being present at their arrival. - -I took the road to Collares, and found the air delightfully soft and -fragrant. Some rain which had lately fallen, had refreshed the whole -face of the country, and tinged the steeps beyond Penha Verde with -purple and green; for the numerous tribe of heaths had started into -blossom, and the little irregular lawns, overhung by crooked cork-trees, -which occur so frequently by the way-side, are now covered with large -white lilies streaked with pink. - -Penha Verde itself is a lovely spot. The villa, with its low, flat -roofs, and a loggia projecting at one end, exactly resembles the -edifices in Gaspar Poussin's landscapes. Before one of the fronts is a -square parterre with a fountain in the middle, and niches in the walls -with antique busts. Above these walls a variety of trees and shrubs rise -to a great elevation, and compose a mass of the richest foliage. The -pines, which, by their bright-green colour, have given the epithet of -verdant to this rocky point (Penha Verde), are as picturesque as those I -used to admire so warmly in the Negroni garden at Rome, and full as -ancient, perhaps more so: tradition assures us they were planted by the -far-famed Don John de Castro, whose heart reposes in a small marble -chapel beneath their shade. - -How often must that heroic heart, whilst it still beat in one of the -best and most magnanimous of human bosoms, have yearned after this calm -retirement! Here, at least, did it promise itself that rest so cruelly -denied him by the blind perversities of his ungrateful countrymen: for -his had been an arduous contest, a long and agonizing struggle, not only -in the field under a burning sun, and in the face of peril and death, -but in sustaining the glory and good fame of Portugal against court -intrigues, and the vile cabals of envious, domestic enemies. - -These scenes, though still enchanting, have most probably undergone -great changes since his days. The deep forests we read of have -disappeared, and with them many a spring they fostered. Architectural -fountains, gaudy terraces, and regular stripes of orange-gardens, have -usurped the place of those wild orchards and gushing rivulets he may be -supposed to have often visited in his dreams, when removed some thousand -leagues from his native country. All these are changed; but mankind are -the same as in his time, equally insensible to the warning voice of -genuine patriotism, equally disposed to crouch under the rod of corrupt -tyranny. And thus, by the neglect of wise and virtuous men, and a mean -subserviency to knavish fools, eras which might become of gold, are -transmuted by an accursed alchymy into iron rusted with blood. - -Impressed with all the recollections this most interesting spot could -not fail to inspire, I could hardly tear myself away from it. Again and -again did I follow the mossy steps, which wind up amongst shady rocks to -the little platform, terminated by the sepulchral chapel-- - - "----densis quam pinus opacat - Frondibus et nulla lucos agitante procella - Stridula coniferis modulatur carmina ramis." - -You must not wonder then, that I was haunted the whole way home by these -mysterious whisperings, nor that, in such a tone of mind, I saw with no -great pleasure a procession of two-wheeled chaises, the lord knows how -many out-riders, and a caravan of bouras, marching up to the gate of my -villa. I had, indeed, been prepared to expect a very considerable influx -of visiters; but this was a deluge. - -Do not let me send you a catalogue of the company, lest you should be as -much annoyed with the detail, as I was with such a formidable arrival -_en masse_. Let it suffice to name two of the principal characters, the -old pious Conde de San Lorenzo, and the prior of San Julia, one of the -archbishop's prime favourites, and a person of great worship. Mortier's -Dutch bible happening to lie upon the table, they began tumbling over -the leaves in an egregiously awkward manner. I, who abhor seeing books -thumbed, and prints demonstrated by the close application of a greasy -fore-finger, snapped at the old Conde, and cast an evil look at the -prior, who was leaning his whole priestly weight on the volume, and -creasing its corners. - -My musicians were in full song, and Pedro Grua, a capital violoncello, -exerted his abilities in his best style; but San Lorenzo was too -pathetically engaged in deploring the massacre of the Innocents to pay -him any attention, and his reverend companion had entered into a -long-winded dissertation upon parables, miracles, and martyrdom, from -which I prayed in vain the Lord to deliver me. Verdeil, scenting from -afar the saintly flavour of the discourse, stole off. - -I cannot say much in praise of the prior's erudition, even in holy -matters, for he positively affirmed that it was Henry the Eighth -himself, who knocked St. Thomas Becket's brains out, and that by the -beast in the Apocalypse, Luther was positively indicated. I hate -wrangles, and had it not been for the soiling of my prints, should never -have contradicted his reverence; but as I was a little out of humour, I -lowered him somewhat in the Conde's opinion, by stating the real period -of St. Thomas's murder, and by tolerably specious arguments, shoving the -beast's horns off Luther, and clapping them tight upon--whom do you -think?--OEcolampadius! So grand a name, which very probably they had -never heard pronounced in their lives, carried all before it, (adding -another instance of the triumph of sound over sense,) and settled our -bickerings. - -We sat down, I believe, full thirty to dinner, and had hardly got -through the dessert, when Berti came in to tell me that Madame Ariaga, -and a bevy of the palace damsels, were prancing about the quinta on -palfreys and bouras. I hastened to join them. There was Donna Maria do -Carmo, and Donna Maria da Penha, with her hair flowing about her -shoulders, and her large beautiful eyes looking as wild and roving as -those of an antelope. I called for my horse, and galloped through alleys -and citron bushes, brushing off leaves, fruit, and blossoms. Every -breeze wafted to us the sound of French horns and oboes. The ladies -seemed to enjoy the freedom and novelty of this scamper prodigiously, -and to regret the short time it was doomed to last; for at seven they -are obliged to return to strict attendance on the Queen, and had some -strange fairy-tale metamorphosis into a pumpkin or a cucumber been the -penalty of disobedience, they could not have shown more alarm or anxiety -when the fatal hour of seven drew near. Luckily, they had not far to go, -for her Majesty and the Royal Family were all assembled at the Marialva -villa, to partake of a splendid merenda and see fireworks. - -As soon as it fell dark Verdeil and I set forth to catch a glimpse of -the royal party. The Grand Prior and Don Pedro conducted us mysteriously -into a snug boudoir which looks into the great pavilion, whose gay, -fantastic scenery appeared to infinite advantage by the light of -innumerable tapers reflected on all sides from lustres of glittering -crystal. The little Infanta Donna Carlotta was perched on a sofa in -conversation with the Marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, who, in the -true oriental fashion, had placed themselves cross-legged on the floor. -A troop of maids of honour, commanded by the Countess of Lumieres, sat -in the same posture at a little distance. Donna Rosa, the favourite -dwarf negress, dressed out in a flaming scarlet riding-habit, not so -frolicsome as the last time I had the pleasure of seeing her in this -fairy bower, was more sentimental, and leaned against the door, ogling -and flirting with a handsome Moor belonging to the Marquis. - -Presently the Queen, followed by her sister and daughter-in-law, the -Princess of Brazil, came forth from her merenda, and seated herself in -front of the latticed-window, behind which I was placed. Her manner -struck me as being peculiarly dignified and conciliating. She looks born -to command; but at the same time to make that high authority as much -beloved as respected. Justice and clemency, the motto so glaringly -misapplied on the banner of the abhorred Inquisition, might be -transferred with the strictest truth to this good princess. During the -fatal contest betwixt England and its colonies, the wise neutrality she -persevered in maintaining was of the most vital benefit to her -dominions, and hitherto, the native commerce of Portugal has attained -under her mild auspices an unprecedented degree of prosperity. - -Nothing could exceed the profound respect, the courtly decorum her -presence appeared to inspire. The Conde de Sampayo and the Viscount -Ponte de Lima knelt by the august personages with not much less -veneration, I should be tempted to imagine, than Moslems before the tomb -of their prophet, or Tartars in the presence of the Dalai Lama. Marialva -alone, who took his station opposite her Majesty, seemed to preserve his -ease and cheerfulness. The Prince of Brazil and Don Joa looked not a -little ennuied; for they kept stalking about with their hands in their -pockets, their mouths in a perpetual yawn, and their eyes wandering -from object to object, with a stare of royal vacancy. - -A most rigorous etiquette confining the Infants of Portugal within their -palaces, they are seldom known to mix even incognito with the crowd; so -that their flattering smiles or confidential yawns are not lavished upon -common observers. This sort of embalming princes alive, after all, is no -bad policy; it keeps them sacred; it concentrates their royal essence, -too apt, alas! to evaporate by exposure. What is so liberally paid for -by the willing tribute of the people as a rarity of exquisite relish, -should not be suffered to turn mundungus. However the individual may -dislike this severe regimen, state pageants might have the goodness to -recollect for what purpose they are bedecked and beworshipped. - -The Conde de Sampayo, lord in waiting, handed the tea to the Queen, and -fell down on both knees to present it. This ceremony over, for every -thing is ceremony at this stately court, the fireworks were announced, -and the royal sufferers, followed by their sufferees, adjourned to a -neighbouring apartment. The Marchioness, her daughters, and the -Countess of Lumieres, mounted up to the boudoir where I was sitting, -and took possession of the windows. Seven or eight wheels, and as many -tourbillons began whirling and whizzing, whilst a profusion of admirable -line-rockets darted along in various directions, to the infinite delight -of the Countess of Lumieres, who, though hardly sixteen, has been -married four years. Her youthful cheerfulness, light hair, and fair -complexion, put me so much in mind of my Margaret, that I could not help -looking at her with a melancholy tenderness: her being with child -increased the resemblance, and as she sat in the recess of the window, -discovered at intervals by the blue light of rockets bursting high in -the air, I felt my blood thrill as if I beheld a phantom, and my eyes -were filled with tears. - -The last firework being played off, the Queen and the Infantas departed. -The Marchioness and the other ladies descended into the pavilion, where -we partook of a magnificent and truly royal collation. Donna Maria and -her little sister, animated by the dazzling illumination, tripped about -in their light muslin dresses, with all the sportiveness of fairy -beings, such as might be supposed to have dropped down from the floating -clouds, which Pillement has so well represented on the ceiling. - - - - -LETTER XXX. - - Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.--The Holy - Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese - poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular - tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the - Infanta's accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio's singing, - and anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_. - - -November 8th, 1787. - -Verdeil and I rattled over cracked pavements this morning in my rough -travelling-coach, for the sake of exercise. The pretext for our -excursion was to see a remarkable chapel, inlaid with jasper and -lapis-lazuli, in the church of St. Roch; but when we arrived, three or -four masses were celebrating, and not a creature sufficiently disengaged -to draw the curtain which veils the altar, so we went out as wise as we -came in. - -Not having yet seen the cathedral, or See-church, as it is called at -Lisbon, we directed our course to that quarter. It is a building of no -striking dimensions, narrow and gloomy, without being awful. The -earthquake crumbled its glories to dust, if ever it had any, and so -dreadfully shattered the chapels, with which it is clustered, that very -slight traces of their having made part of a mosque are discernible. - -Though I had not been led to expect great things, even from descriptions -in travels and topographical works, which, like peerage-books and -pedigrees, are tenderly inclined to make something of what is next to -nothing at all: I hunted away, as became a diligent traveller, after -altar-pieces and tombs, but can boast of no discoveries. To be sure, we -had not much time to look about us: the priests and sacristans, who -fastened upon us, insisted upon our revisiting the corner of a bye -staircase, where are to be kissed and worshipped the traces of St. -Anthony's fingers. The saint, it seems, being closely pursued by the -father of lies and parent of evil, alias Old Scratch, (I really could -not clearly learn upon what occasion,) indented the sign of the cross -into a wall of the hardest marble, and stopped his proceedings. A very -pleasing little picture hangs up near the miraculous cross, and records -the tradition. - -All this was admirable; but nothing in comparison with some stories -about certain holy crows. "The very birds are in being," said a -sacristan. "What!" answered I, "the individual[19] crows who attended -St. Vincent?"--"Not exactly," was the reply, (in a whisper, intended for -my private ear); "but their immediate descendants."--"Mighty well; this -very evening, please God, I will pay my respects to them, and in good -company, so adieu for the present." - -Our next point was the Theatine convent. We looked into the library, -which lies in the same confusion in which it was left by the earthquake; -half the books out of their shelves, tumbled one over the other in dusty -heaps. A shrewd, active monk, who, I am told, has written a history of -the House of Braganza, not yet printed, guided our steps through this -chaos of literature; and after searching half-an-hour for some curious -voyages he wished to display to us, led us into his cell, and pressed -our attention to a cabinet of medals he had been at some pains and -expense in collecting. - -Not feeling any particular vocation for numismatic researches, I left -Verdeil with the monk, puzzling out some very questionable inscriptions, -and went to beat up for recruits to accompany me in the evening to the -holy crows. First, I found the Abade Xavier, and secondly, the famous -missionary preacher from Boa Morte, and then the Grand Prior, and -lastly, the Marquis of Marialva; Don Pedro begged not to be left out, so -we formed a coach full, and I drove my whole cargo home to dinner. -Verdeil was already returned with his reverend medallist, and had also -collected the governor of Goa, Don Frederic de Sousa Cagliariz, his -constant attendant a bullying Savoyard, or Piedmontese Count, by name -Lucatelli; and a pale, limber, odd-looking young man, Senhor Manuel -Maria, the queerest, but, perhaps, the most original of God's poetical -creatures. He happened to be in one of those eccentric, lively moods, -which, like sunshine in the depth of winter, come on when least -expected. A thousand quaint conceits, a thousand flashes of wild -merriment, a thousand satirical darts shot from him, and we were all -convulsed with laughter; but when he began reciting some of his -compositions, in which great depth of thought is blended with the most -pathetic touches, I felt myself thrilled and agitated. Indeed, this -strange and versatile character may be said to possess the true wand of -enchantment, which, at the will of its master, either animates or -petrifies. - -Perceiving how much I was attracted towards him, he said to me, "I did -not expect an Englishman would have condescended to pay a young, -obscure, modern versifier, any attention. You think we have no bard but -Camoens, and that Camoens has written nothing worth notice, but the -Lusiad. Here is a sonnet worth half the Lusiad. - - CXCII. - - 'A fermosura desta fresca serra, - E a sombra dos verdes castanheiros, - O manso caminhar destes ribeiros, - Donde toda a tristeza se desterra; - O rouco som do mar, a estranha terra, - O esconder do Sol pellos outeiros, - O recolher dos gados derradeiros, - Das nuvens pello ar a branda guerra: - Em fim tudo o que a rara natureza - Com tanta variedade nos ofrece, - Me est (se no te vejo) magoando: - Sem ti tudo me enoja, e me aborrece, - Sem ti perpetuamente estou passando - Nas mres alegrias, mr tristeza!' - -Not an image of rural beauty has escaped our divine poet; and how -feelingly are they applied from the landscape to the heart! What a -fascinating languor, like the last beams of an evening sun, is thrown -over the whole composition! If I am any thing, this sonnet has made me -what I am; but what am I, compared to Monteiro? Judge," continued he, -putting into my hand some manuscript verses of this author, to whom the -Portuguese are vehemently partial. Though they were striking and -sonorous, I must confess the sonnet of Camoens, and many of Senhor -Manuel Maria's own verses, pleased me infinitely more; but in fact, I -was not sufficiently initiated into the force and idiom of the -Portuguese language to be a competent judge; and it was only in fancying -me one, that this powerful genius discovered any want of penetration. - -Our dinner was lively and convivial. At the dessert the Abad produced -an immense tray of dried fruits and sweetmeats, which one of his hundred -and fifty _protgs_ had sent him from, I forget what exotic region. -These good things he kept handing to us, and almost cramming down our -throats, as if we had been turkeys and he a poulterer, whose livelihood -depended upon our fattening. "There," said he, "did you ever behold such -admirable productions? Our Queen has thousands and thousands of miles -with fruit-groves over your head, and rocks of gold and diamonds beneath -your feet. The riches and fertility of her possessions have no bounds, -but the sea, and the sea itself might belong to us if we pleased; for we -have such means of ship-building, masts two hundred feet high, -incorruptible timbers, courageous seamen. Don Frederic can tell you what -some of our heroes achieved not long ago against the gentiles at Goa. -Your Joa Bulles are not half so smart, half so valorous." - -Thus he went on, bouncing and roaring us deaf. For patriotic -rodomontades and flourishes, no nation excels the Portuguese, and no -Portuguese the Abad! - -At length, however, all this tasting and praising having been gone -through with, we set forth on the wings of holiness, to pay our devoirs -to the holy crows. A certain sum having been allotted time immemorial -for the maintenance of two birds of this species, we found them very -comfortably established in a recess of a cloister adjoining the -cathedral, well fed and certainly most devoutly venerated. - -The origin of this singular custom dates as high as the days of St. -Vincent, who was martyrized near the Cape, which bears his name, and -whose mangled body was conveyed to Lisbon in a boat, attended by crows. -These disinterested birds, after seeing it decently interred, pursued -his murderers with dreadful screams and tore their eyes out. The boat -and the crows are painted or sculptured in every corner of the -cathedral, and upon several tablets appear emblazoned an endless record -of their penetration in the discovery of criminals. - -It was growing late when we arrived, and their feathered sanctities were -gone quietly to roost; but the sacristans in waiting, the moment they -saw us approach, officiously roused them. O, how plump and sleek, and -glossy they are! My admiration of their size, their plumage, and their -deep-toned croakings carried me, I fear, beyond the bounds of saintly -decorum. I was just stretching out my hand to stroke their feathers, -when the missionary checked me with a solemn forbidding look. The rest -of the company, aware of the proper ceremonial, kept a respectful -distance, whilst the sacristan and a toothless priest, almost bent -double with age, communicated a long string of miraculous anecdotes -concerning the present holy crows, their immediate predecessors, and -other holy crows in the old time before them. - -To all these super-marvellous narrations, the missionary appeared to -listen with implicit faith, and never opened his lips during the time we -remained in the cloister, except to enforce our veneration, and exclaim -with pious composure, "_honrado corvo_." I really believe we should have -stayed till midnight, had not a page arrived from her Majesty to summon -the Marquis of M---- and his almoner away. - -My curiosity being fully satisfied upon the subject of the holy crows, I -was easily persuaded by the Grand Prior to move off, and drive through -the principal streets to see the illuminations in honour of the Infanta, -consort to Don Gabriel of Spain, who had produced a prince. A great -many idlers being abroad upon the same errand, we proceeded with -difficulty, and were very near having the wheels of our carriage -dislocated in attempting to pass an old-fashioned, preposterous coach, -belonging to one of the dignitaries of the patriarchal cathedral. I -cannot launch forth in praise of the illuminations; but some rockets -which were let off in the Terreiro do Paco, surprised me by the vast -height to which they rose, and the unusual number of clear blue stars -into which they burst. The Portuguese excel in fireworks; the late poor, -drivelling, saintly king having expended large sums in bringing this art -to perfection. - -From the Terreiro do Paco we drove to the great square, in which the -palace of the Inquisition is situated. There we found a vast mob, to -whom three or four Capuchin preachers were holding forth upon the -glories and illuminations of a better world. I should have listened not -uninterested to their harangues, which appeared, from the specimen I -caught of them, to be full of fire and frenzy, had not the Grand Prior, -in perpetual awe of the rheumatism, complained of the night, so we -drove home. Every apartment of the house was filled with the thick -vapour of wax-torches, which had been set most loyally a blazing. I -fumed and fretted and threw open the windows. Away went the Grand Prior, -and in came Policarpio, the famous tenor singer, who entertained us with -several bravura airs of glib and surprising volubility, before supper -and during it, in a style equally professional, with many private -anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_, his principal employers, not -infinitely to their advantage. - -I longed, in return, to have enlarged a little upon the adventures of -the holy crows, but prudently repressed my inclination. It would -ill-become a person so well treated as I had been by the crow-fanciers, -to handle such subjects with any degree of levity. - - - - -LETTER XXXI. - - Rambles in the Valley of Collares.--Elysian scenery. Song of a - young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the - Prince of Brazil[20] in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with - His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalha. - - -Oct. 19th, 1787. - -My health improves every day. The clear exhilarating weather we now -enjoy calls forth the liveliest sense of existence. I ride, walk, and -climb, as long as I please, without fatiguing myself. The valley of -Collares affords me a source of perpetual amusement. I have discovered a -variety of paths which lead through chesnut copses and orchards to -irregular green spots, where self-sown bays and citron-bushes hang wild -over the rocky margin of a little river, and drop their fruit and -blossoms into the stream. You may ride for miles along the bank of this -delightful water, catching endless perspectives of flowery thickets, -between the stems of poplar and walnut. The scenery is truly elysian, -and exactly such as poets assign for the resort of happy spirits. - -The mossy fragments of rock, grotesque pollards, and rustic bridges you -meet with at every step, recall Savoy and Switzerland to the -imagination; but the exotic cast of the vegetation, the vivid green of -the citron, the golden fruitage of the orange, the blossoming myrtle, -and the rich fragrance of a turf, embroidered with the -brightest-coloured and most aromatic flowers, allow me without a violent -stretch of fancy to believe myself in the garden of the Hesperides, and -to expect the dragon under every tree. I by no means like the thoughts -of abandoning these smiling regions, and have been twenty times on the -point this very day of revoking the orders I have given for my journey. -Whatever objections I may have had to Portugal seem to vanish, since I -have determined to leave it; for such is the perversity of human nature, -that objects appear the most estimable precisely at the moment when we -are going to lose them. - -There was this morning a mild radiance in the sunbeams, and a balsamic -serenity in the air, which infused that voluptuous listlessness, that -desire of remaining imparadised in one delightful spot, which, in -classical fictions, was supposed to render those who had tasted the -lotos forgetful of country, of friends, and of every tie. My feelings -were not dissimilar, I loathed the idea of moving away. - -Though I had entered these beautiful orchards soon after sunrise, the -clocks of some distant conventual churches had chimed hour after hour -before I could prevail upon myself to quit the spreading odoriferous -bay-trees under which I had been lying. If shades so cool and fragrant -invited to repose, I must observe that never were paths better -calculated to tempt the laziest of beings to a walk, than those which -opened on all sides, and are formed of a smooth dry sand, bound firmly -together, composing a surface as hard as gravel. - -These level paths wind about amongst a labyrinth of light and elegant -fruit-trees; almond, plum, and cherry, something like the groves of -Tonga-taboo, as represented in Cook's voyages; and to increase the -resemblance, neat cane fences and low open sheds, thatched with reeds, -appear at intervals, breaking the horizontal lines of the perspective. - -I had now lingered and loitered away pretty nearly the whole morning, -and though, as far as scenery could authorize and climate inspire, I -might fancy myself an inhabitant of elysium, I could not pretend to be -sufficiently ethereal to exist without nourishment. In plain English, I -was extremely hungry. The pears, quinces, and oranges which dangled -above my head, although fair to the eye, were neither so juicy nor -gratifying to the palate, as might have been expected from their -promising appearance. - -Being considerably - - More than a mile immersed within the wood,[21] - -and not recollecting by which clue of a path I could get out of it, I -remained at least half-an-hour deliberating which way to turn myself. -The sheds and enclosures I have mentioned were put together with care -and even nicety, it is true, but seemed to have no other inhabitants -than flocks of bantams, strutting about and destroying the eggs and -hopes of many an insect family. These glistening fowls, like their -brethren described in Anson's voyages, as animating the profound -solitudes of the island of Tinian, appeared to have no master. - -At length, just as I was beginning to wish myself very heartily in a -less romantic region, I heard the loud, though not unmusical, tones of a -powerful female voice, echoing through the arched green avenues; -presently, a stout ruddy young peasant, very picturesquely attired in -brown and scarlet, came hoydening along, driving a mule before her, -laden with two enormous panniers of grapes. To ask for a share of this -luxuriant load, and to compliment the fair driver, was instantaneous on -my part, but to no purpose. I was answered by a sly wink, "We all belong -to Senhor Jos Dias, whose corral, or farm-yard, is half a league -distant. There, Senhor, if you follow that road, and don't puzzle -yourself by straying to the right or left, you will soon reach it, and -the bailiff, I dare say, will be proud to give you as many grapes as you -please. Good morning, happy days to you! I must mind my business." - -Seating herself between the tantalizing panniers, she was gone in an -instant, and I had the good luck to arrive straight at the wicket of a -rude, dry wall, winding up and down several bushy slopes in a wild -irregular manner. If the outside of this enclosure was rough and -unpromising, the interior presented a most cheering scene of rural -opulence. Droves of cows and goats milking; ovens, out of which huge -cakes of savoury bread had just been taken; ranges of beehives, and long -pillared sheds, entirely tapestried with purple and yellow muscadine -grapes, half candied, which were hung up to dry. A very good-natured, -classical-look-magister pecorum, followed by two well-disciplined, -though savage-eyed dogs, whom the least glance of their master prevented -from barking, gave me a hearty welcome, and with genuine hospitality not -only allowed me the free range of his domain, but set whatever it -produced in the greatest perfection before me. A contest took place -between two or three curly-haired, chubby-faced children, who should be -first to bring me walnuts fresh from the shell, bowls of milk, and -cream-cheeses, made after the best of fashions, that of the province of -Alemtejo. - -I found myself so abstracted from the world in this retirement, so -perfectly transported back some centuries into primitive patriarchal -times, that I don't recollect having ever enjoyed a few hours of more -delightful calm. "Here," did I say to myself, "am I out of the way of -courts and ceremonies, and commonplace visitations, or salutations, or -gossip." But, alas! how vain is all one thinks or says to one's self -nineteen times out of twenty. - -Whilst I was blessing my stars for this truce to the irksome bustle of -the life I had led ever since her Majesty's arrival at Cintra, a loud -hallooing, the cracking of whips, and the tramping of horses, made me -start up from the snug corner in which I had established myself, and -dispelled all my soothing visions. Luis de Miranda, the colonel of the -Cascais regiment, an intimate confidant and favourite of the Prince of -Brazil, broke in upon me with a thousand (as he thought) obliging -reproaches, for having deserted Ramalha the very morning he had come on -purpose to dine with me, and to propose a ride after dinner to a -particular point of the Cintra mountains, which commands, he assured me, -such a prospect as I had not yet been blessed with in Portugal. "It is -not even now," said he, "too late. I have brought your horses along -with me, whom I found fretting and stamping under a great tree at the -entrance of these foolish lanes. Come, get into your stirrups for God's -sake, and I will answer for your thinking yourself well repaid by the -scene I shall disclose to you." - -As I was doomed to be disturbed and talked out of the elysium in which I -had been lapped for these last seven or eight hours, it was no matter in -what position, whether on foot or on horseback; I therefore complied, -and away we galloped. The horses were remarkably sure-footed, or else, I -think, we must have rolled down the precipices; for our road, - - "If road it could be call'd where road was none," - -led us by zigzags and short cuts over steeps and acclivities about three -or four leagues, till reaching a heathy desert, where a solitary cross -staring out of a few weather-beaten bushes, marked the highest point of -this wild eminence, one of the most expansive prospects of sea, and -plain, and distant mountains, I ever beheld, burst suddenly upon me, -rendered still more vast, arial, and indefinite, by the visionary, -magic vapour of the evening sun. - -After enjoying a moment or two the general effect, I began tracing out -the principal objects in the view, as far, that is to say, as they could -be traced, through the medium of the intense glowing haze. I followed -the course of the Tagus, from its entrance till it was lost in the low -estuaries beyond Lisbon. Cascais appeared with its long reaches of wall -and bomb-proof casemates like a Moorish town, and by the help of a glass -I distinguished a tall palm lifting itself above a cluster of white -buildings. - -"Well," said I, to my conductor, "this prospect has certainly charms -worth seeing; but not sufficient to make me forget that it is high time -to get home and refresh ourselves." "Not so fast," was the answer, "we -have still a great deal more to see." - -Having acquired, I can hardly tell why or wherefore, a sheep-like habit -of following wherever he led, I spurred after him down a rough -declivity, thick strewn with rolling stones and pebbles. At the bottom -of this descent, a dreary sun-burnt plain extended itself far and wide. -Whilst we dismounted and halted a few minutes to give our horses breath, -I could not help observing, that the view we were now contemplating but -ill-rewarded the risk of breaking our necks in riding down such rapid -declivities. He smiled, and asked me whether I saw nothing at all -interesting in the prospect. "Yes," said I, "a sort of caravan I -perceive, about a quarter of a mile off, is by no means uninteresting; -that confused group of people in scarlet, with gleaming arms and -sumpter-mules, and those striped awnings stretched from ruined walls, -present exactly that kind of scenery I should expect to meet with in the -neighbourhood of Grand Cairo." "Come then," said he, "it is time to -clear up this mystery, and tell you for what purpose we have taken such -a long and fatiguing ride. The caravan which strikes you as being so -very picturesque, is composed of the attendants of the Prince of Brazil, -who has been passing the whole day upon a shooting-party, and is just at -this moment taking a little repose beneath yonder awnings. It was by his -desire I brought you here, for I have his commands to express his wishes -of having half-an-hour's conversation with you, unobserved, and in -perfect incognito. Walk on as if you were collecting plants or taking -sketches, I will apprize his royal highness, and you will meet as it -were by chance, and without any form. No one shall be near enough to -hear a word you say to each other, for I will take my station at the -distance of at least one hundred paces, and keep off all spies and -intruders." - -I did as I was directed. A little door in the ruined wall, against which -an awning was fixed, opened, and there appeared a young man of rather a -prepossessing figure, fairer and ruddier than most of his countrymen, -who advanced towards me with a very pleasant engaging countenance, moved -his hat in a dignified graceful manner, and after insisting upon my -being covered, began addressing himself to me with great precipitation, -in a most fluent lingua-franca, half Italian and half Portuguese. This -jargon is very prevalent at the Ajuda[22] palace, where Italian singers -are in much higher request and fashion than persons of deeper tone and -intellect. - -The first question his royal highness honoured me with was, whether I -had visited his cabinet of instruments. Upon my answering in the -affirmative, and that the apparatus appeared to me extremely perfect, -and in admirable order, he observed, "The arrangement is certainly good, -for one of my particular friends, a very learned man, has made it; but -notwithstanding the high price I have paid, your Ramsdens and Dollonds -have treated themselves more generously than me. I believe," continued -his royal highness, "according to what the Duke d'Alafoens has -repeatedly assured me, I am conversing with a person who has no weak, -blind prejudices, in favour of his country, and who sees things as they -are, not as they have been, or as they ought to be. That commercial -greediness the English display in every transaction has cost us dear in -more than one particular." - -He then ran over the ground Pombal had so often trodden bare, both in -his state papers and in various publications which had been promulgated -during his administration, and I soon perceived of what school his royal -highness was a disciple. - -"We deserve all this," continued he, "and worse, for our tame -acquiescence in every measure your cabinet dictates; but no wonder, -oppressed and debased as we are, by ponderous, useless institutions. -When there are so many drones in a hive, it is in vain to look for -honey. Were you not surprised, were you not shocked, at finding us so -many centuries behind the rest of Europe?" - -I bowed, and smiled. This spark of approbation induced, I believe, his -royal highness to blaze forth into a flaming encomium upon certain -reforms and purifications which were carrying on in Brabant, under the -auspices of his most sacred apostolic Majesty Joseph the Second. "I have -the happiness," continued the Prince, "to correspond not unfrequently -with this enlightened sovereign. The Duke d'Alafoens, who has likewise -the advantage of communicating with him, never fails to give me the -detail of these salutary proceedings. When shall we have sufficient -manliness to imitate them!" - -Though I bowed and smiled again, I could not resist taking the liberty -of observing that such very rapid and vigorous measures as those his -imperial Majesty had resorted to, were more to be admired than imitated; -that people who had been so long in darkness, if too suddenly broken in -upon by a stream of effulgence, were more likely to be blinded than -enlightened; and that blows given at random by persons whose eyes were -closed were dangerous, and might fall heaviest perhaps in directions -very opposite to those for which they were intended. This was rather -bold, and did not seem to please the novice in boldness. - -After a short pause, which allowed him, at least, an opportunity of -taking breath, he looked steadily at me, and perceiving my countenance -arrayed in the best expression of admiration I could throw into it, -resumed the thread of his philosophical discourse, and even condescended -to detail some very singular and, as they struck me, most perilous -projects. Continuing to talk on with an increased impetus (like those -whose steps are accelerated by running down hill) he dropped some vague -hints of measures that filled me not only with surprise, but with a -sensation approaching to horror. I bowed, but I could not smile. My -imagination, which had caught the alarm at the extraordinary nature of -the topics he was discoursing upon, conjured up a train of appalling -images, and I asked myself more than once whether I was not under the -influence of a distempered dream. - -Being too much engaged in listening to himself to notice my confusion, -he worked as hard as a pioneer in clearing away the rubbish of ages, -entered minutely and not unlearnedly into the ancient jurisprudence and -maxims of his country, its relations with foreign powers, and the rank -from whence it had fallen in modern times, to be attributed in a great -measure, he observed, to a blind and mistaken reliance upon the selfish -politics of our predominant island. Although he did not spare my -country, he certainly appeared not over partial to his own. He painted -its military defects and priest-ridden policy in vivid colours. In -short, this part of our discourse was a "_deploratio Lusitanic -Gentis_," full as vehement as that which the celebrated Damien a Goes, -to show his fine Latin and fine humanity, poured forth some centuries -ago over the poor wretched Laplanders. - -Not approving in any degree the tendency of all this display, I most -heartily prayed it might end. Above an hour had passed since it began, -and flattered as I was by the protraction of so condescending a -conference, I could not help thinking that these fountains of honour are -fountains of talk and not of mercy; they flow over, if once set a going, -without pity or moderation. Persons in supreme stations, whom no one -ventures to contradict, run on at a furious rate. You frequently flatter -yourself they are exhausted; but you flatter yourself in vain. Sometimes -indeed, by way of variety, they contradict themselves, and then the -debate is carried on between self and self, to the desperation of their -subject auditors, who, without being guilty of a word in reply, are -involved in the same penalty us the most captious disputant. This was my -case. I scarcely uttered a syllable after my first unsuccessful essay; -but thousands of words were nevertheless lavished upon me, and -innumerable questions proposed and answered by the questioner with equal -rapidity. - -In return for the honour of being admitted to this monological dialogue, -I kept bowing and nodding; and towards the close of the conference, -contrived to smile again pretty decently. His royal highness, I learned -afterwards, was satisfied with my looks and gestures, and even bestowed -a brevet upon me of a great deal more erudition than I possessed or -pretended to. - -The sun set, the dews fell, the Prince retired, Louis de Miranda -followed him, and I remounted my horse with an indigestion of sounding -phrases, and the most confirmed belief that "_the church was in -danger_." - -Tired and exhausted, I threw myself on my sofa the moment I reached -Ramalha; but the agitation of my spirits would not allow me any repose. -I swallowed some tea with avidity, and driving to the palace, evocated -the archbishop confessor, who had been locked up above half-an-hour in -his interior cabinet. To him I related all that had passed at this -unsought, unexpected interview. The consequences in time developed -themselves. - - - - -LETTER XXXII. - - Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the - Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk - on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at - dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary - superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. - - -Nov. 9th, 1787. - -M---- and his principal almoner, a renowned missionary, and one of the -most eloquent preachers in her Majesty's dominions, were at my door by -ten, waiting to take me with them to the convent of Boa Morte. This is a -true Golgotha, a place of many skulls, for its inhabitants, though they -live, move, and have a sort of being, are little better than skeletons. -The priest who officiated appeared so emaciated and cadaverous, that I -could hardly have supposed he would have had strength sufficient to -elevate the chalice. It did not, however, fall from his hands, and -having finished his mass, a second phantom tottered forth and began -another. From the pictures and images of more than ordinary ghastliness -which cover the chapels and cloisters, and from the deep contrition -apparent in the tears, gestures, and ejaculations of the faithful who -resort to them, I fancy no convent in Lisbon can be compared with this -for austerity and devotion. - -M---- shook all over with piety, and so did his companion, whose knees -are become horny with frequent kneelings, and who, if one is to believe -Verdeil, will end his days in a hermitage, or go mad, or perhaps both. -He pretends, too, that it is this grey-beard that has added new fuel to -the flame of M----'s devotion, and that by mutually encouraging each -other, they will soon produce fruits worthy of Bedlam, if not of -Paradise. To be sure, this father may boast a conspicuously devout turn, -and a most resolute manner of thumping himself; but he must not be too -vain. In Lisbon there are at least fifty or sixty thousand good souls, -who, without having travelled so far, thump full as sonorously as he. -This morning, at Boa Morte, one shrivelled sinner remained the whole -time the masses lasted with outstretched arms, in the shape and with all -the inflexible stiffness of an old-fashioned branched candlestick. -Another contrite personage was so affected at the moment of -consecration, that he flattened his nose on the pavement, and licked the -dirt and dust with which it was thickly encrusted. - -I must confess that, notwithstanding this very superior display of -sanctity, I was not sorry to escape from the dingy cloisters of the -convent, and breathe the pure air, and look up at the blue exhilarating -sky. The weather being delightful, we drove to several distant parts of -the town, to which I was yet a stranger. Returning back by the Bairro -Alto, we looked into a new house, just finished building at an enormous -expense, by Joa Ferreira, who, from an humble retailer of leather, has -risen, by the archbishop's favour, to the possession of some of the most -lucrative contracts in Portugal. Uglier-shaped apartments than those the -poor shoe-man had contrived for himself I never beheld. The hangings are -of satin of the deepest blue, and the fiercest and most sulphureous -yellow. Every ceiling is daubed over with allegorical paintings, most -indifferently executed, and loaded with gilt ornaments, in the style of -those splendid sign-posts which some years past were the glory of -High-Holborn and St. Giles's. - -We were soon tired of all this finery, and as it was growing late, made -the best of our way to Belem. Whilst M---- was writing letters, I walked -out with Don Pedro on the verandas of the palace, which are washed by -the Tagus, and flanked with turrets. The views are enchanting, and the -day being warm and serene, I enjoyed them in all their beauty. Several -large vessels passed by as we were leaning over the balustrades, and -almost touched us with their streamers. Even frigates and ships of the -first rate approach within a quarter of a mile of the palace. - -There was a greater crowd of attendants than usual round our table at -dinner to-day, and the huge massy dishes were brought up by a long train -of gentlemen and chaplains, several of them decorated with the orders of -Avis and Christ. This attendance had quite a feudal air, and transported -the imagination to the days of chivalry, when great chieftains were -waited upon like kings, by noble vassals. - -The Portuguese had need have the stomachs of ostriches to digest the -loads of savoury viands with which they cram themselves. Their -vegetables, their rice, their poultry, are all stewed in the essence of -ham, and so strongly seasoned with pepper and spices, that a spoonful of -peas, or a quarter of an onion, is sufficient to set one's mouth in a -flame. With such a diet, and the continual swallowing of sweetmeats, I -am not surprised at their complaining so often of head-aches and -vapours. - -Several of the old Marquis of M----'s confidants and buffoons crept -forth to have a peep at the stranger, and hear the famous missionary -descant upon martyrdom and miracles. The scenery of Boa Morte being -fresh in his thoughts, his descriptions were gloomy and appalling: Don -Pedro, his sisters, and his cousin, the young Conde d'Atalaya,[23] -gathered round him with all the trembling eagerness of children who -hunger and thirst after hobgoblin stories. You may be sure he sent them -not empty away. A blacker dose of legendary superstition was never -administered. The Marchioness seemed to swallow these terrific -narrations with nearly as much avidity as her children, and the old -Abade, dropping his chin in a woful manner, produced an enormous rosary, -and kept thumbing his beads and mumbling orisons. - -M---- had luckily been summoned to the palace by a special mandate from -his royal mistress. Had he been of the party, I fear Verdeil's prophecy -would have been accomplished, for never did mortal hold forth with so -much scaring energy as this enthusiastic preacher. The most terrible -denunciations of divine wrath which ever were thundered forth by ancient -or modern writers of sermons and homilies recurred to his memory, and he -dealt them about him with a vengeance. The last half hour of the -discourse we were all in total darkness,--nobody had thought of calling -for lights: the children were huddled together, scarce venturing to move -or breathe. It was a most singular scene. - -Full of the ghastly images the good father had conjured up in my -imagination, I returned home alone in my carriage, shivering and -shuddering. My friends were out, and nothing could be more dreary than -the appearance of my fireless apartments. - - - - -LETTER XXXIII. - - Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of - beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful - countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of - Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the - Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor's.--Filial affection.--Last - interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt - regret on leaving Portugal. - - -Sunday, November 25th, 1787. - -What a morning for the 25th of November! The sun shining most -brilliantly, insects fluttering about, and flowers expanding--the late -rains having called forth a second spring, and tinted the hills round -Almada, on the opposite shore of the Tagus, with a lively green. - -I breakfasted alone, Verdeil being gone to St. Roch's, to see the -ceremony of publishing the bull of the Crusade, which allows good -Christians to eat eggs and butter during Lent, upon paying his holiness -a few shillings. I stayed at home, hearing a rehearsal of Seguidillas, -in preparation for a new intermez at the Salitri theatre, till the hour -of mass was over, then getting into the Portuguese chaise, drove -headlong to the palace in the Placa do Commercio, and hastened to the -Marquis of M----'s apartments. All his family were assembled to dine -with him. - -Had it not been for the thoughts of my approaching departure, I should -have felt more comfort and happiness than has fallen to my lot for a -long interval. M----, whose attendance on the Queen may be too justly -termed a state of downright slavery, had hardly taken his place at -table, before he was called away. The Marchioness, Donna Henriquetta, -and her little sister, soon retreated to the Camareira-Mor's apartments, -and I was left alone with Pedro and Duarte. They seized fast hold, each -of a hand, and running like greyhounds through long corridors, took me -to a balcony which commands one of the greatest thoroughfares in Lisbon. - -The evening was delightful, and vast crowds of people moving about, of -all degrees and nations, old and young, active and crippled, monks and -officers. Shoals of beggars kept pouring in from every quarter to take -their stands at the gates of the palace and watch the Queen's going out; -for her Majesty is a most indulgent mother to these sturdy sons of -idleness, and scarcely ever steps into her carriage without distributing -considerable alms amongst them. By this misplaced charity, hundreds of -stout fellows are taught the management of a crutch instead of a musket, -and the art of manufacturing sores, ulcers, and scabby pates, in the -most loathsome perfection. Duarte, who is all life and gaiety, vaulted -upon the railing of the balcony, and hung for a moment or two suspended -in a manner that would have frightened mothers and nurses into -convulsions. The beggars, who had nothing to do till her Majesty should -be forthcoming, seemed to be vastly entertained with these feats of -agility. - -They soon spied me out, and two brawny lubbers, whom an unfortunate -combination of smallpox and king's-evil had deprived of eye-sight, -informed, no doubt, by their comrades of what was going forward, began a -curious dialogue with voices still deeper and harsher than those of the -holy crows:--"Heaven prosper their noble excellencies, Don Duarte Manoel -and Don Pedro, and all the Marialvas--sweet dear youths, long may they -be blessed with the use of their eyes and of all their limbs! Is that -the charitable Englishman in their sweet company?"--"Yes, my comrade," -answered the second blind.--"What!" said the first, "that generous -favourite of the most glorious Lord St. Anthony? (O gloriosissimo Senhor -Sant-Antonio!)"--"Yes, my comrade."--"O that I had but my precious eyes, -that I might enjoy the sight of his countenance!" exclaimed both -together. - -By the time the duet was thus far advanced, the halt, the maimed, and -the scabby, having tied some greasy nightcaps to the end of long poles, -poked them up through the very railing, bawling and roaring out charity, -"charity for the sake of the holy one of Lisbon." Never was I looked up -to by a more distorted or frightful collection of countenances. I made -haste to throw down a plentiful shower of small copper money, or else -Duarte would have twitched away both poles and nightcaps, a frolic by no -means to be encouraged, as it might have marred our fame for the -readiest and most polite attention to every demand in the name of St. -Anthony. - -Just as the orators were receiving their portion of pence and farthings, -a cry of "There's the Queen, there's the Princess!" carried the whole -hideous crowd away to another scene of action, and left me at full -liberty to be amused in my turn with the squirrel-like gambols of my -lively companion; he is really a fine enterprising boy, bold, alert, and -sprightly; quite different from most of his illustrious young relations. - -Don Pedro by no means approved my English partiality to such active -feats, and after scolding his cousin for skipping about in so hazardous -a style, entreated me to take them to the Salitri theatre, where a box -had been prepared for us by his father's orders. Upon the whole, I was -better entertained than I expected, though the performance lasted above -four hours and a half, from seven to near twelve. It consisted of a -ranting prose tragedy, in three acts, called Sesostris, two ballets, a -pastoral, and a farce. The decorations were not amiss, and the dresses -showy. A shambling, blear-eyed boy, bundled out in weeds of the deepest -sable, squeaked and bellowed alternately the part of a widowed -princess. Another hob-e-di-hoy, tottering on high-heeled shoes, -represented her Egyptian majesty, and warbled two airs with all the -nauseous sweetness of a fluted falsetto. Though I could have boxed his -ears for surfeiting mine so filthily, the audience were of a very -different opinion, and were quite enthusiastic in their applause. - -In the stage-box I observed the mincing Countess of Pombeiro, whose -light hair and waxen complexion was finely contrasted by the ebon hue of -two little negro attendants perched on each side of her. It is the high -tone at present in this court to be surrounded by African implings, the -more hideous, the more prized, and to bedizen them in the most expensive -manner. The Queen has set the example, and the royal family vie with -each other in spoiling and caressing Donna Rosa, her Majesty's -black-skinned, blubber-lipped, flat-nosed favourite. - -One of the ballets was admirably got up; upon the rising of the curtain, -a strange cabalistic apartment is discovered, where an astrologer -appears very busy at a table covered with spheres and astrolabes, -arranging certain mysterious images, and pinking their eyes with a -gigantic pair of black compasses. A sort of Pierrot announces some -inquisitive travellers, who enter with many bows and scrapings. One of -them, the chief of the party, an old dapper beau in pink and silver, -reminded me very much of the Duke d'Alafoens, and sidled along and -tossed his cane about, and seemed to ask questions without waiting for -answers, with as good a grace as that janty general. The astrologer, -after explaining the wonders of his apartment with many pantomimical -contortions, invites his company to follow him, and the scene changes to -a long gallery, illuminated with a profusion of lights in gilt branches. -The perspective ends in a flight of steps, upon each of which stands a -row of figures, pantaloons, harlequins, sultans, sultanas, Indian -chiefs, devils, and savages, to all appearance motionless. Pierrot -brings in a machine like a hand-organ, and his master begins to grind, -the music accompanying. At the first chord, down drop the arms of all -the figures; at the second, each rank descends a step, and so on, till -gaining the level of the stage, and the astrologer grinding faster and -faster, the supposed clock-work-assembly begin a general dance. - -Their ballet ended, the same accords are repeated, and all hop up in the -same stiff manner they hopped down. The travellers, highly pleased with -the show, depart; Pierrot, who longs to be grinding, persuades his -master to take a walk, and leave him in possession of the gallery. He -consents; but enjoins the gaping oaf upon no account to meddle with the -machine, or set the figures in motion. Vain are his directions! no -sooner has he turned his back than Pierrot goes to work with all his -strength; the figures fall a shaking as if on the point of disjoining -themselves; creak, crack, grinds the machine with horrid harshness; -legs, arms, and noddles are thrown into convulsions, three steps are -jumped at once. Pierrot, frightened out of his senses at the goggle-eyed -crowd advancing upon him, clings close to the machine and gives the -handle no respite. The music, too, degenerates into the most jarring, -screaking sounds, and the figures knocking against each other, and -whirling round and round in utter confusion, fall flat upon the stage. -Pierrot runs from group to group in rueful despair, tries in vain to -reanimate them, and at length losing all patience, throws one over the -other, and heaps sultanas upon savages, and shepherds upon devilkins. -Most of these personages being represented by boys of twelve or thirteen -were easily wielded. After Pierrot has finished tossing and tumbling, he -drops down exhausted and lies as dead as his neighbours, hoping to -escape unnoticed amongst them. But this subterfuge avails him not; in -comes the astrologer armed with his compasses; back he starts at sight -of the confounded jumble. Pierrot pays for it all, is soon drawn forth -from his lurking-place, and the astrologer grinding in a moderate and -scientific manner, the figures lift themselves up, and returning all in -_status quo_, the ballet finishes. - -Shall I confess that this nonsense amused me pretty nearly as much as it -did my companions, whose raptures were only exceeded by those of madame -de Pombeiro's implings. They, sweet, sooty innocents, kept gibbering and -pointing at the man with the black compasses in a manner so completely -African and ludicrous, that I thought their contortions the best part -of the entertainment. - -The play ended, we hastened back to the palace, and traversing a number -of dark vestibules and guard-chambers, (all of a snore with jaded -equerries,) were almost blinded with a blaze of light from the room in -which supper was served up. There we found in addition to all the -Marialvas, the old marquis only excepted, the Camareira-mor, and five or -six other hags of supreme quality, feeding like cormorants upon a -variety of high-coloured and high-seasoned dishes. I suppose the keen -air from the Tagus, which blows right into the palace-windows, operates -as a powerful whet, for I never beheld eaters or eateresses, no not even -our old acquaintance madame la Prsidente at Paris, lay about them with -greater intrepidity. To be sure, it was a splendid repast, quite a -banquet. We had manjar branco and manjar real, and among other good -things a certain preparation of rice and chicken, which suited me -exactly, and no wonder, for this excellent mess had been just tossed up -by Donna Isabel de Castro with her own illustrious hands, in a nice -little kitchen adjoining the queen's apartment, in which all the -utensils are of solid silver. - -The number of lights upon the table, and of attendants and pages in rich -uniforms around it, was prodigious; but what interested me far more than -all this parade, was the sportive good-humour and frankness of the -company. How it happened that the presence of a stranger failed to -inspire any reserve, is one of those odd circumstances I can hardly -account for; especially as the higher orders of the Portuguese are the -farthest removed of all persons from admitting any but their nearest -relations to these family parties; but so it was, and I felt both -flattered and gratified at being permitted to witness the ease and -hilarity which prevailed. - -The dutiful, affectionate attention of the younger part of the company -to their parents was truly amiable; nor do I believe that, at this day -in any other realm in Europe, the sacred precept of honouring your -father and your mother is so cordially observed as in Portugal. Happy -if, in our intercourse with that nation, we had profited in that respect -by their example; the peace of so many of our noblest families would -not have been disturbed by the lowest connexions, nor their best blood -contaminated by matches of the most immoral, degrading tendency. We -should not have seen one year a performer acting the part of lady this -or lady t'other upon the stage, and the next in the drawing-room; nor, -upon entering some of our principal houses, have been tempted to cry -out--"Bless me! that lovely countenance is the same I recollect adoring -by moonlight on the fine broad flagstones of Bond Street or Portland -Place!"[24] - -It was now after two in the morning, and I must own, notwithstanding the -good cheer of which I had participated, and the kind entertainment I had -received, I began to feel a little tired. The children were in such -spirits, so full of frolic, and her sublimity, the Camareira-mor, so -unusually tolerant and condescending, that there was no knowing when -the party would break up. Taking, therefore, my leave in due form, I -made my retreat escorted by half-a-dozen torch-bearers. - -Just as I had gotten about half-way on my journey through what appeared -to me interminable passages, I was arrested in my progress by a pair of -dominicans, father Rocha, and his scarecrow satellite fr Jos do -Rosario. A person less accustomed than I had lately been to such -apparitions would have been startled; especially, too, if he had found -himself like me between the most formidable living pillars of the holy -inquisition. - -"What are you doing here so very late," I could not help exclaiming, "my -reverend fathers? What's the matter?" - -"The matter is," answered Rocha, with a voice of terrific hoarseness, -"that we have caught cold waiting for you in these confounded corridors. -The archbishop, above half-an-hour ago, commanded us to bring you to him -dead or alive; but a rascally jackanapes in waiting upon her excellency -the Camareira-mor would not let us in to deliver our message, so we -have been airing ourselves hitherto to no purpose." - -"Do you know," said Rocha, taking me into a little room where a lamp was -still burning, "that affairs do not go on so smoothly as they ought? The -archbishop seems to have lost both time and temper since he has been -pressed into the cabinet; and, as for the Prince of Brazil and his -consort, God forgive me for wishing their advisers and all their -intrigues in the lowest abyss of perdition. How can you be scheming a -journey to Madrid at this season? The floods are out, and the robbers -also, and I tell you what, as the archbishop says twenty times a day, if -you do go you deserve to be drowned and murdered." - -"The die is cast," I replied, "and I must take my chance; but really I -wish you would have the goodness to bid the archbishop a very good night -in my name, and let me put off asking his benediction till to-morrow, -for I am quite jaded." - -"Jaded or not," answered the monk, "you must come with me; the wind is -up in the archbishop's brain just at this moment, and by the least -contradiction more would become a hurricane." - -Finding resistance vain, I suffered myself to be conducted through two -or three open courts, very refreshing at this hour you may suppose, and -up a little staircase into the archbishop's interior cabinet. All was -still as death--no lay-brother bustling about--no sound audible but a -low breathing, which now and then swelled into a half suppressed groan, -from the agitated prelate, whom we found knee-deep in papers, immersed -in thought. - -"So," said he, "there you are at last. What have you been doing all this -while? Who but a brute of an Englishman would have kept me waiting. Ay, -ay, you told me how it would be, and you are right. They plague my soul -out. We have twenty rascals pulling as many ways. Your people too are -not what they used to be, though Mello would make us believe to the -contrary. One thing I know for certain, some infernal mischief is -afloat, and unless God's grace is speedily manifested, I see no end to -confusion, and wish myself anywhere but where I am. These -smooth-tongued, Frenchified, Italian, Voltaireists and encyclopedians -have poisoned all sound doctrine. Ay," continued he, rising up, with an -expression of indignation and anger I never saw before on his -countenance, "somebody's ears[25] are poisoned whom I could name.... But -where is the use of talking to you? You are determined to leave us, be -it so. God's providence is above all. He knows what is best for you, and -for me, and for these kingdoms. There is your passport, countersigned by -your friend Mello; and here is a letter for Lorenzana, and another for -his catholic majesty's confessor, in which I tell him what an amazing -fool you are, and unless you continue one without any remission, we -shall soon have you back again. Tell Marialva," he added, addressing -himself to Rocha (for the other father had not been admitted), "tell -Marialva and all his friends that I have dried up my tongue almost more -times than one, in attempting to argue a thousand silly whimsies and -crotchets out of his harum-scarum English brain; but come," said he, -extending his arms, "I bear no malice, I pity, I do not condemn. Let me -give you an embrace, and pray God it may not be the last you will -receive from me." - -It was, alas! the last I ever received from him, poor, honest-hearted, -kind old man! A sort of melancholy foreboding which seemed to pervade -all he said in this interview was too soon realized. The fatal tide of -events flowing on as it were with redoubled, tremendous velocity, swept -away in the course of a few short months from this period the Prince of -Brazil, the lovely and amiable infanta his sister, her husband Don -Gabriel of Spain, and the good old King Charles the Third. Not long -after, the archbishop-confessor himself was called from the plenitude of -power and the enjoyment of unrivalled influence to the presence of that -Being in whose sight "no man living shall be justified;" but as in many -trying and peculiar instances he had shown the tenderest mercy, it may -tremblingly be hoped that mercy has been shown to him. Notwithstanding -the bluntness of his manner, the kindness of his heart, so apparent in -his good-humoured, benevolent eye, found its way, almost imperceptibly -to himself, to the hearts of others, and tempered the despotic roughness -he sometimes assumed both in voice and gesture. - -I still seem to behold the last, earnest, solemn look he gave me when, -the door closing, he retired to the cares of state, and I with my escort -of torch-bearers and dominicans hastened forth to breathe the open air, -of which I stood greatly in need. Many things I had heard, and many -others I conjectured, above all, the reluctance I felt at the bottom of -my heart to leave a country in which I had received such uncommon marks -of friendship, bore heavily upon me. When I got home, scarcely two hours -before daybreak, and tried to compose myself to sleep, I was neither -refreshed nor recruited, but experienced the agitation of feverish and -broken slumbers. - - - - -LETTER XXXIV. - - Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by Perez and - Jomelli.--Marialva's affecting address.--My sorrow and anxiety. - - -26th Nov. 1787. - -I went to the church of the Martyrs to hear the matins of Perez and the -dead mass of Jomelli performed by all the principal musicians of the -royal chapel for the repose of the souls of their deceased predecessors. -Such august, such affecting music I never heard, and perhaps may never -hear again; for the flame of devout enthusiasm burns dim in almost every -part of Europe, and threatens total extinction in a very few years. As -yet it glows at Lisbon, and produced this day the most striking musical -effect. - -Every individual present seemed penetrated with the spirit of those -awful words which Perez and Jomelli have set with tremendous sublimity. -Not only the music, but the serious demeanour of the performers, of the -officiating priests, and indeed of the whole congregation, was -calculated to impress a solemn, pious terror of the world beyond the -grave. The splendid decoration of the church was changed into mourning, -the tribunes hung with black, and a veil of gold and purple thrown over -the high altar. In the midst of the choir stood a catafalque surrounded -with tapers in lofty candelabra, a row of priests motionless on each -side. There was an awful silence for several minutes, and then began the -solemn service of the dead. The singers turned pale as they sang, "Timor -mortis me conturbat." - -After the requiem, the high mass of Jomelli, in commemoration of the -deceased, was performed; that famous composition which begins with a -movement imitative of the tolling of bells, - - "Swinging slow with sullen roar." - -These deep, majestic sounds, mingled with others like the cries for -mercy of unhappy beings, around whom the shadows of death and the pains -of hell were gathering, shook every nerve in my frame, and called up in -my recollection so many affecting images, that I could not refrain from -tears. - -I scarcely knew how I was conveyed to the palace, where Marialva -expected my coming with the utmost impatience. Our conversation took a -most serious turn. He entreated me not to forget Portugal, to meditate -upon the awful service I had been hearing, and to remember he should not -die in peace unless I was present to close his eyes. - -In the actual tone of my mind I was doubly touched by this melancholy, -affectionate address. It seemed to cut through my soul, and I execrated -Verdeil and all those who had been instrumental in persuading me to -abandon such a friend. The grand prior wept bitterly at seeing my -agitation. Marialva went to the queen, and the grand prior home with me. -We dined alone; my heart was full of heaviness, and I could not eat. At -night we returned to the palace, and there all my sorrow and anxiety was -renewed. - - - - -SPAIN. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The - church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built - by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach Arroyolos. - - -Wednesday, Nov. 28th, 1787. - -The winds are reposing themselves, and the surface of the Tagus has all -the smoothness of a mirror. The clouds are dispersing, for it rained -heavily in the night, and the sun tinging the distant mountains of -Palmella. Charming weather for crossing to Aldea Gallega, that self-same -village in whose praises Baretti launches out with so much luxuriance. -Horne and his nephew accompanied me to the stairs of Pampulha, where the -old marquis's scalera was waiting for me, with eight-and-twenty rowers -in their bright scarlet accoutrements. - -Beggars innumerable, blind, dumb, and scabby, followed me almost into -the water. No beggars equal those of Portugal for strength of lungs, -luxuriance of sores, profusion of vermin, variety and arrangement of -tatters, and dauntless perseverance. Several clocks were striking one -when we pushed off from the shore, and in a few minutes less than two -hours we found ourselves at Aldea Gallega, four leagues from Lisbon. -Vast numbers of boats and skiffs passed us in the course of our -navigation, which I should have thought highly agreeable in other -circumstances; but I felt oppressed and melancholy; the thoughts of my -separation from the Marialvas bearing heavily on my mind. Nor could the -grand prospects of the river, and its shores, crowded with convents, -towers, and palaces, remove this dead cold weight a single instant. - -The sun having sunk into watery clouds, the expanse of the Tagus wore a -dismal, leaden-coloured aspect. Lisbon was cast into shade, and the huge -mass of the convent of San Vicente, crowning an eminence, looked dark -and solemn. The low shores of Aldea Gallega are pleasant and woody; -many varieties of the tulip, the iris, and other bulbous roots, already -springing up under the protection of spreading pines. - -Instead of going to a swinish, stinking estellagem, my courier, Martinho -de mello's prime favourite, and the one he employs upon the most -confidential negociations, conducted me to the postmaster's; a neat, -snug habitation, where I found very tolerable accommodations, and dined -in the midst of a vapour of burnt lavender, that was near depriving us -of all appetite. - -Before I sat down to table, I wrote to M----, and sent my letter by the -return of the scalera. It was not without difficulty I wrote then, or -write at present, for my kind host, the postmaster, has not only the -same age, but equal glibness of tongue as the abade. They were -cotemporary at Coimbra, and their tongues have kept pace with each other -these eighty years. The postmaster is blessed with a most tenacious -memory, and having been a mighty reader of operas, serenatas, sonnets, -and romances, seemed to sweat verses at every pore. For three hours he -gave neither himself nor us any respite, but spouted whole volleys of -Metastasio, till he was black in the face. Having washed down the heroic -sentiments of Megacle, Artaserse, and Demetrio with a dish of tea, he -fell to quoting Spanish and Latin authors, Ovid, Seneca, Lopez de Vega, -Calderon, with the same volubility. - -As millers sleep sound to the click of their mill, so I, at the end of -the two hours' gabbling, was perfectly well-seasoned, and let him run on -with the most resigned composure, writing and reading as unconcernedly -as if in a convent of Carthusians. - - -Thursday, November 29th. - -There was a continual racket in the house and about the street-door all -night. At four o'clock the baggage-carts set forth, with a tremendous -jingling of bells. The morning was so soft and vernal, that we drank our -chocolate on the veranda, which commands a wild rural view of shrubby -fields and scattered pines, terminated by a long range of blue hills, -most picturesquely varied in form, if not in colour. - -After breakfast I went to the church, which Colmenar pretends is -magnificently gilt and ornamented; but which, in fact, can boast no -other decoration than a few shabby altars, displaying the images of -Nossa Senhora, and the patron saint, in tinselled garments of faded -taffeta. I knelt on a mouldy pavement, and felt a chill wind issuing -from between the crevices of loose grave-stones, that returned a hollow -sound when I rose up and walked over them. A priest, who was saying -mass, officiated with uncommon slowness and solemnity. It was hardly -light in the recesses of the chapels. - -Soon after eight o'clock we left Aldea Gallega, and ploughed through -deep furrows of sand at the sober rate of two miles and a half in an -hour. On both sides of the heavy road the eye ranges uninterrupted, -except by the stems of starveling pines, through a boundless extent of -barren country, overgrown with stunted ilex and gum-cistus. The same -scenery lasted without any variation full five leagues, to the venta de -Pegoens, where I am now writing, in a long dismal room, with plastered -walls, a damp brick-floor, and cracked window-shutters. A pack of -half-famished dogs are leaping around me, their eyes ready to start out -of their sockets and their ribs out of their skin. - -After dining upon the provisions we brought with us, of which the -yelping generation enjoyed no inconsiderable share, we proceeded through -sandy wilds diversified alone by pines. Not a single habitation -occurred, till by a glimmering dubious starlight, for it was now -half-past seven, we discovered the extensive front of a palace, built in -the year 1729, by John the fifth, for the accommodation of the infanta -of Spain, who married his son, the late king D. Jos. Here we were to -lodge, and I was rather surprised, upon entering a long suite of -well-proportioned apartments, to find doors and windows still capable of -being shut and opened, large chimneys guiltless of smoking out of their -right channel, and painted ceilings without cracks or crevices. - -A young priest, neither deficient in manners nor erudition, the keeper -of this solitary palace, did his utmost to make our stay in it -agreeable. By his attention, we had some chairs and tables placed by a -blazing fire, which I worshipped with all the fervour of an ancient -Persian. I had need of this consolation, being much disordered by the -tiresome dragging of our heavy coach through heaps of sand, and -depressed with feverish shiverings. - - -Friday, November 30th. - -It was a long while last night before I composed myself to sleep, and -being called at the first dawn, I rose, if possible, more indisposed -than when I lay down; I could scarcely swallow any refreshment, and kept -walking disconsolately through the vast range of naked apartments, till -the rays of the rising sun entered the windows. The horizon glowed with -ruddy clouds. The vast desert levels, discovered from the balconies of -the palace, gleamed with dewy verdure. I hastened out to breathe the -fresh morning air, impregnated with the perfume of a thousand aromatic -shrubs and opening flowers. I could not believe it was the last day of -November, but fancied I had slept away the winter, and was just awakened -in the month of May. - -To enjoy these fragrant breezes in full liberty, I left our carriage to -drag along as slowly as the mules pleased, and the muleteers to smoke -their cigarros as deliberately as they thought proper; and mounting my -horse, rode the best part of the way to Montemor; which is built on the -acclivity of a mountain, and surrounded on every side by groves of -olives. The whole face of the country is covered by the same -vegetation, and, of course, presents no very cheerful appearance. - -About a mile from Montemor we crossed a clear river, whose banks are -thick-set with poplars, and a light, airy species of broom, intermixed -with indian-fig, and laurustine in full blossom. The bees were swarming -amongst the flowers, and filling the air with their hum. - -Whilst our dinner was preparing we climbed up the green slopes of a -lofty hill, to some ruins on its summit; and passing under a narrow arch -discovered a broad flight of steps, which lead to a very ancient church -of gothic uncouth architecture: the pavement almost entirely composed of -sepulchral slabs and brasses. As we walked on a platform before the -entrance, the sun shone so fiercely that we were glad to descend the -eminence on its shadiest side, and take refuge in a cavern-like -apartment of the estallagem, very damp and dingy; but in which, however, -an excellent dinner awaited our arrival. - -We set out at two in a blaze of sunshine, so cheerful and reviving, that -I got once more on horseback, and never dismounted till I reached -Arroyolos. Just as we came in sight of this ugly old town, which, like -Montemor, crowns the summit of a rocky eminence, it fell totally dark; -but the postmaster coming forth with torches, lighted us through several -winding alleys to his house. I found some pleasant apartments amply -furnished, and richly carpeted, and had the comfort of settling myself -by a crackling fire, writing to the whole circle of the Marialvas, and -drinking tea without being attacked by quotations of Virgil and -Metastasio. - - - - -LETTER II. - - A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An - outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our - reception there.--My visiters. - - -Saturday, December 1st, 1787. - -Hitherto I have had no reason to complain of my accommodations in -travelling through Portugal. A mandate from the governor procured me -milk this morning for my breakfast, much against the will of the -proprietor, who had a great inclination to keep all to himself. The idea -of its being squeezed out by force, persuaded me that it had a very sour -taste, and I hardly touched it. - -I laid in a stock of carpets for my journey, of strange grotesque -patterns and glaring colours, the produce of a manufactory in this town, -which employs about three hundred persons. Methinks I begin to write as -dully as Major W. Dalrymple, whose dry journal of travels through a -part of Spain I had the misfortune of reading in the coach this morning, -as we jogged and jolted along the dreary road between Arroyolos and -Venta do Duque. - -We passed a wild tract of forest-land, and saw numerous herds of swine -luxuriously scratching themselves against the rugged bark of cork-trees, -and routing up the moss at their roots in search of acorns. Venta do -Duque is a sty right worthy of being the capital of hoggish dominions. -It can boast, however, of a chimney, which, giving us the opportunity of -making a fire, rendered our stay in it less intolerable. - -The evening turned out cloudy and cold. Before we arrived at Estremoz, -another city on a hill, better and farther seen than it merits, it began -to rain with a vengeance. I hear it splashing and driving this moment in -the puddles which lie in the vast, forlorn market-place, at one end of -which our posada is situated. For Portugal, this posada is by no means -indifferent; the walls and ceilings have been neatly whitewashed, and -here are chairs and tables. My carpets are of essential service in -protecting my feet from the damp brick-floors. I have spread them all -round my bed, and they make a flaming exotic appearance. - - -Sunday, December 2nd. - -When I opened my eyes about seven in the morning, the sky was still -dismal and lowering; and a crowd of human figures, enveloped in dark -capotes, were just issuing from several dens and lurking-places on each -side the entrance of the posada. A fair, which was held to-day, had -drawn them together, and they were lamenting in chorus the rainy -weather, which prevented the display of their rural finery. Most of -these good people had passed the night in the stables of the posada. As -I came down stairs, I saw several of their companions of both sexes -lying about like the killed and wounded on a field of battle; or, to use -a less fatal comparison, like the dead-drunk during a contested election -in England. - -From the windows of the posada I looked down on a vast opening a -thousand feet in breadth, surrounded by irregular buildings; amongst -which I could not discover any of those handsome edifices adorned with -marble columns, some travelling scribblers mention in terms of the -highest commendation. The marble tower, too, they describe, built by Don -Deniz, has totally lost its polish, if true it is it ever had any. - -Hard by the posada is a little chapel, to which I repaired as soon as I -had breakfasted, and heard an outrageous sermon preached by a -grey-headed, fiery-eyed capuchin, to a troop of blubbering females. - -As it did not positively rain, but only drizzled, after the fashion of -my own dear native country, I rode part of the way to Elvas, and -traversed boundless wastes of gum-cistus, whose dark-green casts a -melancholy shade over the face of the country. A mile or two from Elvas, -the scene changes to a forest of olives, with fountains by the wayside, -and avenues of poplars, which were not yet deprived of their foliage. -Above their summits tower the arches of an aqueduct, supported by strong -buttresses, and presenting, when seen in perspective, an appearance, in -some points of view, not unlike that of a ruined gothic cathedral. The -ramparts of Elvas are laid out and planted much in the style of our -English gardens, and form very delightful walks. - -Upon entering the town, which seems populous and thriving, we were -conducted to a very clean neat house, prepared for our reception by -order of the governor, Monsieur de Vallar. A dignified sort of a page, -or groom of the chambers, in a blue coat richly laced, and the order of -St. Jago dangling at his buttonhole, stood ready at the door to show us -up stairs, and, according to the Portuguese system of politeness, never -quitted our elbows a single moment. - -I had hardly reconnoitred my new apartments, before Monsieur de Vallar -was announced. He brought with him the Abade Correa, one of the -luminaries of modern Portuguese literature, whose conversation afforded -me great amusement. We sallied out together to visit the fortifications, -the stables for the cavalry, and barracks for the soldiers, which are -all in admirable order; thanks to the governor, who is indefatigable in -his exertions, and retains at a very experienced age the agility of -five-and-twenty. I was delighted with his cheerful, military frankness, -and unaffected attentions. He told me, he had stood the fire of our -formidable column at Fontenoy, and never enjoyed himself so much in his -life, as in the smoke and havoc of that furious engagement. - -From one of the bastions to which he conducted us, we had a distinct -view of the fort de la Lippe, erected at an enormous expense on the -summit of a woody mountain. Had the weather been fine, it might have -tempted me to climb up to it; but showers beginning to descend, I -preferred taking shelter in a snug apartment of the marchal, enlivened -by a blazing pile of aromatic woods, raised up on a grate in a -christian-like manner. The abade and I drawing close to this hospitable -hearth, talked over Lisbon and its inhabitants; whilst Verdeil amused -himself with scrutinizing some minerals the marchal had collected, and -which lay scattered about his room. - -In these occupations the time passed till supper. We had pork delicately -flavoured, exquisite quails, and salads, prepared in different manners, -the most delicious I ever tasted. Our conversation was lively and -unrestrained; Correa has an originality of genius and freedom of -sentiment, which the terrors of the inquisition have not yet -extinguished. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer's - enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast - plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Names and characters of - our mules.--Posada at Merida. - - -Monday, Dec. 3rd, 1787. - -The marchal and the abade breakfasted with me, but the rain prevented -my taking another walk about the fortifications, and seeing the troops -go through their exercise. At ten we set off, well escorted, traversed a -dismal plain, and passed a rivulet which separates the two kingdoms. No -sooner had one of our muleteers passed this boundary, than cutting a -cross in the turf with his knife, he fell prostrate and kissed the -ground with a transport of devotion. - -Upon ascending the bank of the rivulet we came in sight of Badajoz and -its long narrow bridge over the Guadiana. The custom-house was all -mildness and moderation. Its harpies have neither flown away with my -books, as Bezerra predicted, nor set their talons in my coffers. At -sight of my passport, such a one, I believe, as is not very frequently -granted, all difficulties gave way, and I was permitted to enter the -lonely, melancholy streets of Badajoz, without being stopped an instant, -or having my baggage ransacked. - -This circumstance, no wonder, gave me greater satisfaction than the -aspect of the town and its inhabitants, which is decidedly gloomy. Every -house almost has grated-windows, and the few human creatures that stared -at us from them, were muffled up to their noses in heavy mantles of the -darkest colours. - -We continued winding half an hour in slow and solemn procession through -narrow streets and alleys, whose gutters were full to the brim, before -we reached the large dingy mansion their excellencies, the governor and -intendant, had been so gracious as to allot for my reception. Both these -personages were, providentially, laid up with agues, or else, it seems, -I should have been honoured with their company the whole evening. - -A mob of eyes and mantles, for neither mouths, arms, nor scarcely legs -were discernible, assembled round the carriages the moment they halted, -and had the patience to remain in the street, silently smoking their -cigarros, the whole time I was at dinner. - -It was night before I rose from table, crept down stairs, and, though it -continued raining at frequent intervals, waded to the cathedral, through -much mire, and between several societies of hogs, which lay sweetly -sleeping to the murmur of dropping eaves, in the midst of gutters and -kennels. - -The cathedral is formed by three aisles of equal breadth, supported by -pillars and arches, in a tolerably good pointed style. Several lofty -chapels open into them, with solemn gates of iron. In the centre of the -middle aisle some bungling architect has awkwardly stuck the choir, not -many paces from the principal entrance, and by so doing has shut out the -view of the high altar: no great loss, however, the high altar looking -little better than a huge mass of rock-work, gilt and burnished. Under -the choir is a staircase leading down to the grated entrance of a vault. -Lamps were burning before many of the altars, and they distributed a -faint light throughout the whole edifice. - -I paced silently to and fro in the aisles, whilst the canons were -chaunting vespers. The choristers still retain the same dress in which -St. Anthony is represented, in the picture which hung by the miraculous -cross he indented when flying the persecutions of Satan. There was a -solemnity in the glimmer of the lamps, the gloomy, indefinite depth of -the chapels, and the darkness of the vault beneath the choir, that -affected me. I passed a very uncomfortable evening, and a worse night. - - -Tuesday, Dec. 4. - -Not a wink of sleep did the musquitos allow me. I was glad to call for -lights at four, and was still happier to step into the coach at five; -from that hour to half-past-eight I contrived to slumber in a feverish, -agitated manner, that did me little good. - -When I opened my eyes, I found myself traversing a vast plain as level -as the ocean. In summer, this waste must convey none but ideas of -sterility and desolation; at present, a fresh verdure, browsed by -numerous flocks, rendered its appearance tolerable. The sheep, which -are large and thriving, have fleeces as long and as silky as the hair of -a barbet, combed every day by the hands of its mistress. I observed -numbers of lambs of the most shining whiteness, with black ears and -noses; just such neat little animals as those I remember to have seen in -the era of Dresden china, at the feet of smirking shepherdesses. - -We dined at a village of mud cottages, called Lubaon, situated on some -rising ground, about eighteen miles from Badajoz, whose inhabitants seem -to have attained the last stage of poverty and wretchedness. Two or -three withered hags, that even in the prophet Habakkuk's resurrection of -dry bones, would have attracted attention, laid hold of me the moment I -got out of the carriage. I thought the cold hand of the weird sisters -was giving me a gripe; and trembled lest, whether I would or not, I -might hear some fatal prediction. To get out of their way I flew to the -church, an old gothic building, placed on the edge of a steep, which -shelves almost perpendicularly down to the banks of the Guadiana, and -took sanctuary in its porch. There I remained till summoned to dinner, -listening to the murmur of the distant river flowing round sandy -islands. - -I won the hearts of my muleteers by caressing their mules, and inquiring -with a respectful earnestness their names and characters. Capitana may -be depended upon in cases of labour and difficulty; Valerosa is skittish -and enterprising; Pelerina rather sluggish and cowardly; but la -Commissaria unites every mulish perfection; is tractable, steady, and -sure-footed, and at the same time (to use the identical expression of my -calasero) the greatest driver of dirt before her in the universe. She is -certainly an animal of uncommon resolution; and when tired to death by -the slow paces of her companions, how often have I wished myself -abandoned to her guidance in a light two-wheeled chaise. - -We left Lubaon at half-past two, and, as I had the happiness of sleeping -almost the whole way to Merida, can give little account of the country. - -I was hardly awake, when we entered the posada at Merida, and started -back, dazzled with an illumination of wax-lights, solemnly stuck in -sconces all round a lofty room, with glaring white walls, as if I had -been expected to lie in state. In the middle of the apartment stood a -large brasier, full of glowing embers, exhaling so strong a perfume of -rosemary and lavender, that my head swam, and I reeled like a drunkard. -But as soon as this vile machine was removed, I sat down to write in -peace and comfort. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Arrival at Miaxadas.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal - country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense - wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--A - terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range of lofty - mountains.--Calzada. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 5th, 1787. - -About five leagues from Merida we stopped at a hovel too wretched to -afford shelter even to our mules. The situation, amidst green hills -scattered over with picturesque ilex, is not unpleasant; and such was -the mildness of the day, that we spread our table on a knoll, and dined -in the open air, surrounded by geese and asses, to whom I distributed -ample slices of water-melons. From this spot three short leagues brought -us to Miaxadas, where we arrived at night. Its inhabitants were gathered -in clusters at their doors, each holding a lamp, and crying, "Biva! -Biva!" - -Instead of entering a dirty posada, my courier ushered me into a sort -of gallery, with a handsome arched roof, matted all over, and set round -with gilt chairs. The donna de la casa made very low obeisances, not -without great primness, and her maids sang tirannas with a wailful -monotony that wore my very soul out. - - -Thursday, Dec. 6th. - -Soaking rain and dismal country, thick strewn with fragments of rock. -Mountains wrapped in mists,--here and there a few green spots studded -with mushrooms. We went seven leagues without stopping, and reached -Truxillo by four. It was this gloomy city, situated on a black eminence, -that gave birth to the ruthless Pizarro, the scourge of the Peruvians, -and the murderer of Atabaliba. We were lodged in a very tolerable -posada, unmolested by speech-makers, and heard no noise but the -trickling of showers. - - -Friday, Dec. 7th. - -I was awakened at five: the gutters were pouring, and all the -water-spouts of Truxillo streaming with rain. An hour and a half did I -pass in a ghostly twilight, my candles being packed up, and all the oil -of the house expended. It required great exertion on the part of my -vigilant courier to prevail on our hulky muleteers to expose themselves -to the bad weather. - -At length, with much ado, we rumbled out of Truxillo, and after -traversing for the space of two leagues the nakedest and most dreary -region I ever beheld, a faint gleam of sunshine melted the deadly white -of the thick clouds which hung over us, and the horizon brightening up, -we discovered a wood of cork-trees interspersed with lawns extending as -far as the eye could stretch itself. These green spots continued to -occur our whole way to Saraseos. There we halted, dined in haste at not -half so wretched a posada as I had been taught to expect, and continuing -our route, the sky clearing, ascended a mountain, from whose brow we -looked down on a valley variegated with patches of ploughed land, wild -shrubberies, and wandering rivulets. - -We had not much time to feast our eyes with this pastoral prospect; the -clouds soon rolled over it, and we found ourselves in a damp fog. The -rest of our journey to Almaraz was a total blank; we saw nothing and -heard nothing, and arrived at the place of our destination in perfect -health and stupidity. - -The escrivano, who is the judge and jury of the village, was so kind as -to accommodate us with his house, and so polite as not to incommode us -with his presence. He is a holy man, and a strenuous advocate for the -immaculate conception, no less than three large folios upon that -mysterious subject lying about in his apartment. - - -Saturday, Dec. 8th. - -Whilst the muleteers were harnessing their beasts together with rotten -cords, I took up a little old book of my pious host's, full of the most -dismal superstitions, entitled _Espeio de Cristal fino, y Antorcha que -aviva el alma_, and read in it till I was benumbed with horror. Many -pages are engrossed with a description of the state into which the -author imagines we are plunged immediately after death. The body he -supposes conscious of all that befalls it in the grave, of exchanging -its warm, comfortable habitation for the cold, pestilential soil of a -churchyard, conscious that its friends have abandoned it for ever, and -of its inability to call them back; to be sensible of the approaches and -progress of the most loathsome corruption, and to hear the voice of an -accusing angel, recapitulating its offences, and summoning it to the -judgment of God. The book ends with a vehement exhortation to repent -while there is yet time, and to procure by fervent prayer, and ample -donations to religious communities, the intercession of the host of -martyrs and of Nuestra Seora. I can easily conceive these scarecrow -publications of infinite use in frightening three parts of mankind out -of their senses, prolonging the reign, and swelling the coffers of the -clergy. - -The horrid images I had seen in this (Espeio) mirror haunted my fancy -for several hours. To dissipate them I mounted my horse, and eagerly -inhaled the fresh breezes that blew over springing herbage, and wastes -of lavender. The birds were singing, the clouds dividing, and -discovering long tracts of soft blue sky. I galloped gaily along a level -country, interspersed with woods of ilex, to the village of Laval de -Moral, where the inhabitants were most devoutly employed in their -churches conciliating the favour of the madonna by keeping holy the -festival of the immaculate conception. There the coach coming up with -me, I got in; and the mules dragging it along at a rate which in the -days of my fire and fury would have made me thump out its bottom with -impatience, I fell into a resigned slumber, and am ignorant of every -object between Laval de Moral and Calzada, in sight of which town I -awoke near five in the evening. - -The sun was setting in a sea of molten gold, and tinging the snows of a -range of lofty mountains, which I discovered for the first time bounding -our horizon. I might have seen them before most probably, had they not -remained till this evening wrapped up in rainy vapours. - -It is at their base the Escurial is situated. I had the consolation of -stepping out of the coach at Calzada into a house with cheerful, neat -apartments, with an open gallery, where I walked contemplating the red -streams of light, and brilliant skirted clouds of the western sky, till -dinner came upon table. Though the doors and windows were all wide open, -I suffered no inconvenience worth mentioning from cold. The master of -the house, a portly, pompous barber-surgeon, most firm in his belief of -the supremacy of Spain over every country in the universe, confessed, -however, the weather was uncommonly warm, and that so mild a month of -December was rather extraordinary. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera--Drawling - tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at Santa Olaya.--The - lady of the house, and her dogs and dancers. - - -Sunday, December 9th, 1787. - -The mountains I saw yesterday are called the Sierra de los Gregos, and -the winds that blow over their summits begin to chill the atmosphere; -but the sun is shining gloriously, and not a cloud obscures his -effulgence. The stars were still twinkling in the firmament, when I was -attracted to mass in the large gloomy church of a nunnery, by the voices -of the Lord's spouses issuing from a sepulchral grate bristled with -spikes of iron. These tremulous, plaintive sounds filled me with such -sadness, and so many recollections of interesting hours departed never -to return, that I felt relieved when I found myself out of sight of the -convent, on a cheerful road thronged with passengers. - -We passed Oropeza, a picturesque, Italian-looking town, on the brow of a -mountain; dined at a venda, in the midst of a savage tract of -forest-land, infamous till within this year or two for robberies and -assassinations; and reached Talavera de la Reyna by sunset. - -More, I believe, has been said in praise of this town than it deserves. -Its appearance is far from cheerful or elegant; and the heavy -brick-fronts of the convents and churches as ill designed as executed. -The streets, however, are crowded with people, who seem to be moving -about with rather more activity than falls to the lot of Spaniards in -general. I am told the silk-manufactories at Talavera are in a -flourishing state, and have taken a good many hands out of the folds of -their mantles. - -Colmenar is perpetually leading me into errors, and causing me -disappointments. He pretends that the inhabitants of this place are -nearly as skilful as those of Pekin and Macao in the manufacturing of -lacquered wares, and that their pottery is unrivalled; but, upon -inquiry, I found the Talaverans no particular proficients in varnish, -and that they had neither a cup nor basin to produce in the least -preferable to those of other villages. - -In one art they are indefatigable, I can answer to my sorrow; that is, -singing drawling tirannas to the monotonous accompaniment of a sort of -hum-strum or hurdy-gurdy, or the devil knows best what sort of -instruments, for such as I hear at this moment under my windows are only -fit to be played in his dominions. I am quite at the mercy of these -untoward minstrels; if they cease not, I must defer sleeping to another -opportunity. Am I then come into Spain to hear hum-strums and -hurdy-gurdies? Where are the rapturous seguidillas, of which I have been -told such wonders? Do they exist, or, like the japanned wares of the -Talaverans, are they only to be found in books of travels and -geographical dictionaries? - - -Monday, December 10th. - -I beg Talavera de la Reyna a thousand pardons; it is not quite so -frightful as it appeared in the twilight of yesterday evening. Many of -the houses have a palace-like appearance, and the interior of the old -gothic cathedral, though not remarkably spacious, has an air of -magnificence; the stalls of the choir are elaborately carved, and on -each side the high altar, curtains of the richest crimson damask fall -from the roof in ample folds, and cast a ruddy glow on the pavement. - -If Talavera has nothing within its walls to be much boasted of, there -are many objects in its environs that merit praise. No sooner had we -left its dark crooked streets behind us, than we discovered a thick wood -of elms skirting an extensive lawn, beautifully green and level, from -which rises the convent of Nuestra Seora del Prayo, crowned by an -octangular cupola. This edifice is built of brick encrusted with stone -ornaments, and choked up by ranges of arcades and heavy galleries. I -have seen several structures which resembled it in the neighbourhood of -Antwerp and Brussels; but whether the Spaniards carried this clumsy -style of architecture into the Low Countries, or borrowed from thence, -is scarcely worth while to determine. - -Not far from Nuestra Seora del Prayo we crossed the Tagus, and -continued dragging through heavy sands for five tedious hours, without -perceiving a habitation, or meeting any animal, biped or quadruped, -except herds of swine, in which, I believe, consist the principal riches -of this part of the Spanish dominions. I doubt whether the royal sty of -Ithaca was half so well garnished, as many private ones in New Castile -and Estremadura. - -Having nothing to look at except a dreary plain bounded by barren, -uninteresting mountains, I was reduced to tumble over the trashy -collection of books, with which I happen in this journey to be provided; -poor fiddle-faddle Derrick's Letters from Cork, Chester, and Tunbridge; -John Buncle, Esquire's, life, holy rhapsodies, and peregrinations; -Shenstone's, Mr. Whistler's, and the good Duchess of Somerset's -Correspondence; Bray's tour, right worthy of an ass; Heley's fulsome -description of the Leasowes and Hagley; Clarke's ponderous account of -Spain; and Major Dalrymple's dry, tiresome, and splenetic excursion. -There's a set, equal it if you can. I hope to get a better at Madrid, -and throw my old stock into the Mananares. - -We dined at a village called Brabo, not in the least worth mentioning, -and arrived in due tiresome course, about six in the evening, at Santa -Olaya, where my courier had procured us an admirable lodging in the -house of a veteran colonel. The principal apartment, in which I pitched -my bed, was a lofty gallery, with large folding glazed doors, gilt and -varnished, its white walls almost covered with saintly pictures and -small mirrors, stuck near the ceiling, beyond the reach of mortal sight, -as if their proprietor was afraid they would wear out by being looked -into. On low tables, to the right and left of the door, stood -glass-cases, filled with relics and artificial flowers. Stools covered -with velvet, and raised not above a foot from the floor, were stationed -all round the room. On one of these I squatted like an oriental, warming -my hands over a brasier of coals. - -The old lady of the house, followed by a train of curtseying handmaids -and snifling lapdogs, favoured me with her company the best part of the -evening. Her spouse, the colonel, being indisposed, did not make his -appearance. Whilst she was entertaining me with a most flourishing -detail of the excellent qualities and wonderful acquisitions of the -infant Don Louis, who died about two years ago at his villa in this -neighbourhood, some very grotesque figures entered the antechamber, and -tinkling their guitars, struck up a seguidilla, that in a minute or two -set all the feet in the house in motion. Amongst the dancers, two young -girls, whose jetty locks were braided with some degree of elegance, -shone forth in a fandango, beating the ground and snapping their fingers -with rapturous agility. - -This sport lasted a full hour, before they showed the least sign of -being tired; then succeeded some languorous tirannas, by no means so -delightful as I expected. I was not sorry when the ball ceased, and my -kind hostess, moving off with all her dogs and dancers, left me to sup -and sleep in tranquillity. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined - musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect - of the city.--The Calle d'Alcala.--The Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. - - -Tuesday, Dec. 11th, 1787. - -Dismal plains and still more dismal mountains; no indication as yet of -the approach to a capital; dined at Santa Cruz; thought we should have -been flayed alive by its greedy inhabitants; arrived in the dark at Val -de Carneiro; lodged in the house of a certain Don Bernardo, passionately -fond of music. The apartment allotted to me contained no less than two -harpsichords: one of them, in a fine gilt case, very pompous and sullen, -I could scarcely prevail upon the keys to move; next it stood a very -sweet-toned modest little spinet, that responded to my touch right -willingly, and as I happened to play some Brazilian ditties Don -Bernardo never heard before, he was so good as to be in raptures. - -These were becoming every minute more enthusiastic, when the arrival of -the alcayde mayor, followed by a priest or two with enormous spectacles -on their thin snipish noses, interrupted our harmonious proceedings. -This personage came expressly to pay me a visit, and to ask questions -about England and her unnatural offspring, the revolted provinces of -North America; a country which he had heard was colder and darker than -the grave, and spread all over with animals, whether biped or quadruped -he could not tell, called _koakeres_, living like beavers, in strange -huts or tabernacles of their own construction. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 12th. - -Don Bernardo showed me his cellars, in which are several casks capable -of holding thirty or forty hogsheads, and ranges of jars in the shape of -the antique amphor, ten feet high, and not less than six in diameter. -For the first time in my life I tasted the genuine Spanish chocolate, -spiced and cinnamoned beyond all endurance. It has put my mouth in a -flame, and I do nothing but spit and sputter. - -The weather was so damp and foggy that we could hardly see ten yards -before us: I cannot, therefore, in conscience abuse the approach to -Madrid so much, I believe, as it deserves. About one o'clock, the -vapours beginning to dissipate, a huge mass of building, and a confused -jumble of steeples, domes, and towers, started on a sudden from the -mist. The large building I soon recognized to be the new palace. It is a -good deal in the style of Caserta, but being raised on a considerable -eminence, produces a more striking effect. At its base flows the pitiful -river Mananares, whose banks were all of a flutter with linen hanging -out to dry. - -We passed through this rag-fair, between crowds of mahogany-coloured -hags, who left off thumping their linen to stare at us, and, crossing a -broad bridge over a narrow streamlet, entered Madrid by a gateway of -very indifferent architecture. The neat pavement of the streets, the -loftiness of the houses, and the cheerful showy appearance of many of -the shops, far surpassed my expectation. - -Upon entering the Calle d'Alcala, a noble street, much wider than any in -London, I was still more surprised. Several magnificent palaces and -convents adorn it on both sides. At one extremity, you perceive the -trees and fountains of the Prado, and, at the other, the lofty domes of -a series of churches. We have got apartments at the Cruz de Malta, -which, though very indifferently furnished, have at least the advantage -of commanding this prospect. I passed half-an-hour after dinner in one -of the balconies, gazing upon the variety of equipages which were -rattling along. The street sloping gradually down, and being paved with -remarkable smoothness, they drove at a furious rate, the high fashion at -Madrid; where to hurry along at the risk of laming your mules, and -cracking their skulls, is to follow the example of his Majesty, than -whom no monarch drives with greater vehemence. - -I strolled to the Prado, and was much struck by the spaciousness of the -principal walk, the length of the avenues, and the stateliness of the -fountains. Though the evening was damp and gloomy, a great many people -were rambling about, and a long line of carriages parading. The dress of -the ladies, the cut of their servants' liveries, the bags of the -coachmen, and the painting of the coaches, were so perfectly Parisian, -that I fancied myself on the Boulevards, and looked in vain for those -ponderous equipages, surrounded by pages and escudeiros, one reads of in -Spanish romances. A total change has taken place, and the original -national customs are almost obliterated. - -Devotion, however, is not yet banished from the Prado; at the ringing of -the Ave-Maria bell, the coaches stopped, the servants took off their -hats, the ladies crossed themselves, and the foot passengers stood -motionless, muttering their orisons. There is both opera and play -to-night, I believe, but I am in no mood to go to either. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her apartment - described.--Her passion for music.--Her seoras de honor. - - -Thursday, Dec. 13th, 1787. - -It was a heavy damp morning, and I could hardly prevail upon myself to -quit my fireside and deliver the archbishop's most confidential -despatches to the Portuguese ambassador Don Diogo de Noronha. - -The ambassador being gone to the palace, I drove to the Duchess of -Berwick's, my old acquaintance, with whom I passed so much of my time at -Paris eight years ago. Her dear spouse, so well known at Spa, Brussels, -Aix-la-Chapelle, and all the gaming-places of Europe, by the name, -style, and title of marquis of Jamaica, has been departed these five or -six months; and she is now mistress of the most splendid palace in -Madrid, of one of the first fortunes, and of the affairs of her only -son, the present Duke of Berwick, to whom she is guardian. - -The faade of the palace, and the spacious court before it, pleased me -extremely. It is in the best style of modern Parisian architecture, -simple and graceful. I was conducted up a majestic staircase, adorned -with corinthian columns, and through a long suite of apartments, at the -extremity of which, in a saloon hung with embroidered India satin, sat -reclined madame la duchesse, in all her accustomed nonchalance. She -seemed never to have moved from her sofa since I last had the pleasure -of seeing her, and is exactly the same good-natured, indolent being, -free from malice or uncharitableness; I wish the world was fuller of -this harmless, quiet species. - -The morning passed most rapidly away in talking over rose-coloured -times; I returned home to dine, and as soon as it was dark went back -again to madame de Berwick's, who was waiting tea for me. I like her -apartment very much, the angles are taken off by low semicircular sofas, -and the space between them and the hangings filled up with slabs of -Granadian marble, on which are placed most beautiful porcelain vases -with mignonette and rose-trees in full bloom. The fire burnt cheerfully, -the table was drawn close to it; the duchess's little girl, Donna -Ferdinanda, sat playing and smiling upon a dog, which she held in her -lap, and had swaddled up like an infant. - -Soon after tea, the young duke of Berwick and a French abb, his -preceptor, came in and stayed with us the remainder of the evening. The -duke is only fourteen and some months, but he is taller than I am, and -as plump as the plumpest of partridges. His manners are French, and his -address as prematurely formed as his figure. Few, if any, fortunes in -Europe equal that which he enjoys, and of which he has expectations; -being heir to the house of Alba, seventy thousand a-year at least, and -in possession of the Veragua and Liria estates. These immense properties -are of course underlet, and wretchedly cultivated. If able exertions -were made in their management, his income might be doubled. - -Madame de Berwick has not lost her passion for music; operas and sonatas -lie scattered all over her apartment; not only singing-books were lying -on the carpet, but singers themselves; three of her musical attendants, -a page, and two pretty little seoras de honor, having cast themselves -carelessly at her feet in the true Spanish, or rather morisco, fashion, -ready to warble forth the moment she gave the signal, which was not long -delayed, and never did I hear more soothing voices. The inspiration they -gave rise to drove me to the piano-forte, where I played and sang those -airs Madame de Berwick was so fond of in the dawn of our acquaintance; -when, thanks to her cherished indolence, she had the resignation to -listen day after day, and hour after hour, to my romantic rhapsodies. -How fervid and ecstatic was I in those days; the toy of every impulse, -the willing dupe of every gay illusion. The duchess tells me, she thinks -from the tone of our conversation in the morning, that I am now a little -sobered, and may possibly get through this thorny world without losing -my wits on its briars. - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and gardens of the - Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and his numerous - train.--Farinelli's apartments. - - -Dec. 14th, 1785. - -One of the best informed and pleasantest of Spaniards, the Chevalier de -Roxas, who had been very intimate both with Verdeil and me at Lausanne, -came in a violent hurry this morning to give us a cordial embrace. He -seems to have set his heart upon showing us about Madrid, and rendering -our stay here as lively as he could make it. Fifty schemes did he -propose in half a minute, of visiting museums, churches, and public -buildings; of goings to balls, theatres, and tertullias. - -I took alarm at this busy prospect, drew back into my shell, and began -wishing myself in the most perfect incognito; but, alas! to no purpose, -it was all in vain. - -Roxas, most eager to enter upon his office of cicerone, fidgeted to the -window, observed we had still an hour or two of daylight, and proposed -an excursion to the palace and gardens of the Buen Retiro. Upon entering -the court of the palace, which is surrounded by low buildings, with -plastered fronts, sadly battered by wind and weather, I espied some -venerable figures in caftans and turbans, leaning against a doorway. - -My sparks of orientalism instantly burst into a flame at such a sight: -"Who are those picturesque animals?" said I to our conductor. "Is it -lawful to approach them?" "As often as you please," answered Roxas. -"They belong to the Turkish ambassador, who is lodged, with all his -train, at the Buen Retiro, in the identical apartments once occupied by -Farinelli; where he held his state levees and opera rehearsals; drilling -ministers one day, and tenors and soprani the other: if you have a mind, -we will go up-stairs and examine the whole menagerie." - -No sooner said, no sooner done. I cleared four steps at a leap, to the -great delight of his sublime excellency's pages and attendants, and -entered a saloon spread with the most sumptuous carpets, and perfumed -with the fragrance of the wood of aloes. In a corner of this magnificent -chamber sat the ambassador, Achmet Vassif Effendi, wrapped up in a -pelisse of the most precious sables, playing with a light cane he had in -his hand, and every now and then passing it under the noses of some -tall, handsome slaves, who were standing in a row before him. These -figures, fixed as statues, and to all appearance equally insensible, -neither moved hand nor eye. As I advanced to make my salam to the grand -seignor's representative, who received me with a most gracious nod of -the head; his interpreter announced to what nation I belonged, and my -own individual warm partiality for the Sublime Porte. - -As soon as I had taken my seat in a ponderous fauteuil of figured -velvet, coffee was carried round in cups of most delicate china, with -gold enamelled saucers. Notwithstanding my predilection for the east and -its customs, I could hardly get this beverage down, it was so thick and -bitter; whilst I was making a few wry faces in consequence, a low -murmuring sound, like that of flutes and dulcimers, accompanied by a -sort of tabor, issued from behind a curtain which separated us from -another apartment. There was a melancholy wildness in the melody, and a -continual repetition of the same plaintive cadences, that soothed and -affected me. - -The ambassador kept poring upon my countenance, and appeared much -delighted with the effect his music seemed to produce upon it. He is a -man of considerable talent, deeply skilled in Turkish literature; a -native of Bagdad; rich, munificent, and nobly born, being descended from -the house of Barmek; gracious in his address, smooth and plausible in -his elocution; but not without something like a spark of despotism in a -corner of his eye. Now and then I fancied that the recollection of -having recommended the bow-string, and certain doubts whether he might -not one day or other be complimented with it in his turn, passed across -his venerable and interesting physiognomy. - -My eager questions about Bagdad, the tomb of Zobeida, the vestiges of -the Dhar al Khalifat, or palace of the Abbassides, seemed to excite a -thousand remembrances which gave him pleasure; and when I added a few -quotations from some of his favourite authors, particularly Mesihi, he -became so flowingly communicative, that a shrewd dapper Greek, called -Timoni, who acted as his most confidential interpreter, could hardly -keep pace with him. - -Had not the hour of prayer arrived, our conversation might have lasted -till midnight. Rising up with much stateliness, he extended his arms to -bid me a good evening, and was assisted along by two good-looking -Georgian pages, to an adjoining chamber, where his secretaries, -dragoman, and attendants, were all assembled to perform their devotions, -each on his little carpet, as if in a mosque; and it was not unedifying -to witness the solemnity and abstractedness with which these devotions -were performed. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The - Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The Theatre.--A highly - popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their glory. - - -Sunday, Dec. 16th, 1787. - -The kind, indefatigable Roxas came to conduct us to the Museum and -Academy of Arts. It consists of seven or eight apartments, with cases -all around them, in a plain, good style; the objects clearly arranged, -and exposed to view in a very intelligible manner. There is a vast -collection of minerals, corals, madrepores, and stalactites, from all -the grottoes in the universe; and curious specimens of virgin-gold and -silver. Amongst the latter, a lump weighing seventy pounds, which was -shivered off an enormous mass by a master miner, who, after dining on -it, with twelve or thirteen persons, hacked it to pieces, and -distributed the fragments amongst his guests. - -What pleased me most was a collection of Peruvian vases; a polished -stone, which served the Incas for a mirror; and a linen mantle, which -formerly adorned their copper-coloured shoulders, as finely woven as a -shawl, and flowered in very nearly a similar manner, the colours as -fresh and vivid as if new. - -In the apartments of the academy is a most valuable collection of casts -after the serene and graceful antique, and several fierce, obtrusive -daubings by modern Spanish artists. - -I found our acute, intelligent charg-d'affaires'[26] card lying on my -table when I got home, and a great many more, of equal whiteness; such a -sight chills me like a fall of snow, for I think of the cold idleness of -going about day after day dropping little bits of pasteboard in return. -Verdeil and I dined tte--tte, planning schemes how to escape formal -fussifications. No easy matter, I suspect, if I may judge from -appearances. - -Our repast and our council over, we hurried to the Prado, where a -brilliant string of equipages was moving along in two files. In the -middle paraded the state coaches of the royal family, containing their -own precious selves, and their wonted accompaniment of bedchamber lords -and ladies, duly bedizened. It was a gay spectacle; the music of the -Swiss guards playing, and the evening sun shining bright on their showy -uniforms. The botanic garden is separated from the walk by magnificent -railings and pilasters, placed at regular distances, crowned with vases -of aloes and yuccas. The verdure and fountains of this vast enclosure, -terminated by a range of columned conservatories, with an entrance of -very majestic architecture, has a delightful and striking effect. - -From the Prado I drove to the Portuguese ambassador's, who is laid up -with a sore toe. Three diplomatic animals, two males and one female, -were nursing and comforting him. He is most supremely dull, and so are -his comforters. One of them in particular, who shall be nameless, quite -asinine. - -The little sympathy I feel for creatures of this genus, made me shorten -my visit as much as I decently could, and return home to take up Roxas, -who was waiting to accompany us to the Spanish theatre. They were acting -the Barber of Seville, with Paesiello's music, and singing better than -at the opera. The entertainment ended with a sort of intermez, very -characteristic of Spanish manners in low life; in which were introduced -seguidillas. One of the dancers, a young fellow, smartly dressed as a -maxo, so enraptured the audience, that they made him repeat his dance -four times over; a French dancing-master would have absolutely shuddered -at the manner in which he turned in his knees. The women sit by -themselves in a gallery as dingy as limbo, wrapped up in their white -mantillas, and looking like spectres. I never heard anything like the -vociferation with which the pit called out for the seguidillas, nor the -frantic, deafening applause they bestowed on their favourite dancer. - -The play ended at eight, and we came back to tea by our fireside. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal - convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence - of the choir.--Charles the Fifth's organ.--Crucifix by - Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Luca Giordano.--Extent and - intricacy of the stupendous edifice. - - -Thursday, Dec. 19th, 1787. - -I hate being roused out of bed by candlelight on a sharp wintry morning; -but as I had fixed to-day for visiting the Escurial, and had stationed -three relays on the road, in order to perform the journey expeditiously, -I thought myself obliged to carry my plan into execution. - -The weather was cold and threatening, the sky red and deeply coloured. -Roxas was to be of our party, so we drove to his brother, the Marquis of -Villanueva's, to take him up. He is one of the best-natured and most -friendly of human beings, and I would not have gone without him upon -any account; though in general I abhor turning and twisting about a town -in search of any body, let its soul be never so transcendent. - -It was past eight before we issued out of the gates of Madrid, and -rattled along an avenue on the banks of the Mananares full gallop, -which brought us to the Casa del Campo, one of the king's palaces, -wrapped up in groves and thickets. We continued a mile or two by the -wall of this enclosure, and leaving La Sarsuela, another royal villa, -surrounded by shrubby hillocks, on the right, traversed three or four -leagues of a wild, naked country, and, after ascending several -considerable eminences, the sun broke out, the clouds partially rolled -away, and we discovered the white buildings of this far-famed monastery, -with its dome and towers detaching themselves from the bold back-ground -of a lofty, irregular mountain. - -We were now about a league off: the country wore a better aspect than -near Madrid. To the right and left of the road, which is of a noble -width, and perfectly well made, lie extensive parks of greensward, -scattered over with fragments of rock and stumps of oak and ash-trees. -Numerous herds of deer were standing stock-still, quietly lifting up -their innocent noses, and looking us full in the face with their -beautiful eyes, secure of remaining unmolested, for the King never -permits a gun to be discharged in these enclosures. - -The Escurial, though overhung by melancholy mountains, is placed itself -on a very considerable eminence, up which we were full half an hour -toiling, the late rains having washed this part of the road into utter -confusion. There is something most severely impressive in the faade of -this regal convent, which, like the palace of Persepolis, is -overshadowed by the adjoining mountain; nor did I pass through a vaulted -cloister into the court before the church, solid as if hewn out of a -rock, without experiencing a sort of shudder, to which no doubt the -vivid recollection of the black and blood-stained days of our gloomy -queen Mary's husband not slightly contributed. The sun being again -overcast, the porches of the church, surmounted by grim statues, -appeared so dark and cavern-like, that I thought myself about to enter a -subterraneous temple set apart for the service of some mysterious and -terrible religion. And when I saw the high altar, in all its pomp of -jasper-steps, ranks of columns one above the other, and paintings -filling up every interstice, full before me, I felt completely awed. - -The sides of the recess, in which this imposing pile is placed, are -formed by lofty chapels, almost entirely occupied by catafalques of gilt -enamelled bronze. Here, with their crowns and sceptres humbly prostrate -at their feet, bare-headed and unhelmed, kneel the figures, large as -life, of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and his imperious son, the -second Philip, accompanied by those of their unhappy consorts and -ill-fated children. My sensations of dread and dreariness were not -diminished upon finding myself alone in such company; for Roxas had left -me to deliver some letters to his right reverence the prior, which were -to open to us all the arcana of this terrific edifice, at once a temple, -a palace, a convent, and a tomb. - -Presently my amiable friend returned, and with him a tall old monk, with -an ash-coloured forbidding countenance, and staring eyes, the expression -of which was the farthest removed possible from anything like -cordiality. This was the mystagogue of the place--the prior _in propria -persona_, the representative of St. Jerome, as far as this monastery and -its domain was concerned, and a disciplinarian of celebrated rigidness. -He began examining me from head to foot, and, after what I thought -rather a strange scrutiny, asked me in broad Spanish what I wished -particularly to see. Then turning to Roxas, said loud enough for me to -hear him, "He is very young; does he understand what I say to him? But, -as I am peremptorily commanded to show him about, I suppose I must -comply, though I am quite unused to the office of explaining our -curiosities. However, if it must be, it must; so let us begin, and not -dally. I have no time to spare, you well know, and have quite enough to -do in the choir and the convent." - -After this not very gracious exordium, we set forth on our tour. First -we visited some apartments with vaulted roofs, painted in arabesque, in -the finest style of the sixteenth century; and then a vast hall, which -had been used for the celebration of mass, whilst the great church was -building, where I saw the Perla in all its purity, the most -delicately-finished work of Raphael, the Pesce, with its divine angel, -graceful infant; and devout young Tobit, breathing the very soul of -pious, unaffected simplicity. My attention was next attracted by that -most profoundly pathetic of pictures, Jacob weeping over the bloody -garment of his son; the loftiest proof in existence of the extraordinary -powers of Velasquez in the noblest work of art. - -These three pictures so absorbed my admiration, that I had little left -for a host of glorious performances by Titian and the highest masters, -which cover the plain, massive walls of these conventual rooms with a -paradise of glowing colours; so I passed along almost as rapidly as my -grumbling cicerone could desire, and followed him up several flights of -stairs, and through many and many an arched passage and vestibule, all -of the sternest doric, into the choir, which is placed over the grand -western entrance, right opposite, at the distance of more than two -hundred feet, to the high altar and its solemn accompaniments. No regal -chamber I ever beheld can be compared, in point of sober harmonious -majesty, to this apartment, which looks more as if it belonged to a -palace than to a church. The series of stalls, designed in a severer -taste than was common in the sixteenth century, are carved out of the -most precious woods the Indies could furnish. At the extremity of this -striking perspective of onyx-coloured seats, columns, and canopies, -appears suspended upon a black velvet pall that revered image of the -crucified Saviour, formed of the purest ivory, which Cellini seems to -have sculptured in moments of devout rapture and inspiration. It is by -far his finest work; his Perseus, at Florence, is tame and laboured in -comparison. - -In a long narrow corridor which runs behind the stalls, panelled all -over like an inlaid cabinet, I was shown a beautiful little organ, in a -richly chased silver case, which accompanied Charles the Fifth in his -African expedition, and must often have gently beguiled the cares of -empire, for he played on it, tradition says, almost every evening. That -it is worth playing upon even now I can safely vouch, for I never -touched any instrument with a tone of more delicious sweetness; and -touch it I did, though my austere conductor, the sour-visaged prior, -looked doubly forbidding on the occasion. - -The stalls I have just mentioned are much less ornamented than those I -have seen in Pavia, and many other monasteries; the ceiling of this -noblest of choirs, displays the utmost exuberance of decoration--the -richest and most gorgeous of spectacles, the heavens and all the powers -therein. Imagination can scarcely conceive the pomp and prodigality of -pencil with which Luca Giordano has treated this subject, and filled -every corner of the vast space it covers with well-rounded forms, that -seem actually starting from the glowing clouds with which they are -environed. - -"Is not this fine?" said the monk; "you can have nothing like it in your -country. And now be pleased to move forward, for the day is wasting, and -you will have little time left to examine our inestimable relics, and -the jewelled shrines in which they are deposited." - -We went down from the choir, I can scarcely tell whither, such is the -extent and intricacy of this stupendous edifice. We passed, I believe, -through some of the lateral chapels at the great church, into several -quadrangles, one in particular, with a fountain under a cupola in the -centre, surrounded by doric arcades, equal in justness of proportion and -architectural terseness to Palladio's court in the convent of S. Giorgio -Maggiore. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from the - Archangel Gabriel's wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy - cloisters.--Sepulchral cave.--River of death.--The regal - sarcophagi. - - -My lord the prior, not favouring a prolonged survey, I reluctantly left -this beautiful court, and was led into a low gallery, roofed and -wainscoted with cedar, lined on both sides by ranges of small doors of -different-coloured Brazil-wood, looking in appearance, at least, as -solid as marble. Four sacristans, and as many lay-brothers, with large -lighted flambeaux of yellow wax in their hands, and who, by the by, -never quitted us more the remainder of our peregrinations, stood silent -as death, ready to unlock those mysterious entrances. - -The first they opened exhibited a buffet, or _credence_, three stories -high, set out with many a row of grinning skulls, looking as pretty as -gold and diamonds could make them; the second, every possible and -impossible variety of odds and ends, culled from the carcasses of -martyrs; the third, enormous ebony presses, the secrets of which I -begged for pity's sake might not be intruded upon for my recreation, as -I began to be heartily wearied of sightseeing; but when my conductors -opened the fourth mysterious door, I absolutely shrank back, almost -sickened by a perfume of musk and ambergris. - -A spacious vault was now disclosed to me--one noble arch, richly -panelled: had the pavement of this strange-looking chamber been strewn -with saffron, I should have thought myself transported to the enchanted -courser's forbidden stable we read of in the tale of the Three -Calenders. - -The prior, who is not easily pleased, seemed to have suspicions that the -seriousness of my demeanour was not entirely orthodox; I overheard him -saying to Roxas, "Shall I show him the Angel's feather? you know we do -not display this our most-valued, incomparable relic to everybody, nor -unless upon special occasions."--"The occasion is sufficiently -special," answered my partial friend; "the letters I brought to you are -your warrant, and I beseech your reverence to let us look at this gift -of heaven, which I am extremely anxious myself to adore and venerate." - -Forth stalked the prior, and drawing out from a remarkably large cabinet -an equally capacious sliding shelf--(the source, I conjecture, of the -potent odour I complained of)--displayed lying stretched out upon a -quilted silken mattress, the most glorious specimen of plumage ever -beheld in terrestrial regions--a feather from the wing of the Archangel -Gabriel, full three feet long, and of a blushing hue more soft and -delicate than that of the loveliest rose. I longed to ask at what -precise moment this treasure beyond price had been dropped--whether from -the air--on the open ground, or within the walls of the humble tenement -at Nazareth; but I repressed all questions of an indiscreet -tendency--the why and wherefore, the when and how, for what and to whom -such a palpable manifestation of archangelic beauty and wingedness had -been vouchsafed. - -We all knelt in silence, and when we rose up after the holy feather had -been again deposited in its perfumed lurking-place, I fancied the prior -looked doubly suspicious, and uttered a sort of _humph_ very doggedly; -nor did his ill-humour evaporate upon my desiring to be conducted to the -library. "It is too late for you to see the precious books and -miniatures by daylight," replied the crusty old monk, "and you would not -surely have me run the risk of dropping wax upon them. No, no, another -time, another time, when you come earlier. For the present, let us visit -the tomb of the catholic kings; there, our flambeaux will be of service -without doing injury." - -He led the way through a labyrinth of cloisters, gloomy as the grave; -till ordering a grated door to be thrown open, the light of our -flambeaux fell upon a flight of most beautiful marble steps, polished as -a mirror, leading down between walls of the rarest jaspers to a portal -of no great size, but enriched with balusters of rich bronze, sculptured -architraves, and tablets of inscriptions, in a style of the greatest -magnificence. - -As I descended the steps, a gurgling sound, like that of a rivulet, -caught my ear. "What means this?" said I. "It means," answered the monk, -"that the sepulchral cave on the left of the stairs, where repose the -bodies of many of our queens and infantas, is properly ventilated, -running water being excellent for that purpose." I went on, not lulled -by these rippling murmurs, but chilled when I reflected through what -precincts flows this river of death. - -Arrived at the bottom of the stairs, we passed through the portal just -mentioned, and entered a circular saloon, not more than five-and-thirty -feet in diameter, characterized by extreme elegance, not stern -solemnity. The regal sarcophagi, rich in golden ornaments, ranged one -above the other, forming panels of the most decorative kind; the lustre -of exquisitely sculptured bronze, the pavement of mottled alabaster; in -short, this graceful dome, covered with scrolls of the most delicate -foliage, appeared to the eye of my imagination more like a subterranean -boudoir, prepared by some gallant young magician for the reception of an -enchanted and enchanting princess, than a temple consecrated to the -king of terrors. - -My conductor's visage growing longer and longer every minute, and -looking pretty nearly as grim as that of the last-mentioned sovereign, I -whispered Roxas it was full time to take our leave; which we did -immediately after my intimating that express desire, to the no small -satisfaction, I am perfectly convinced, of my lord the prior. - -Cold and hungry, for we had not been offered a morsel of refreshment, we -repaired to a warm opulent-looking habitation belonging to one of my -kind companion's most particular friends, a much favoured attendant of -his catholic Majesty's; here we were received with open arms and -generous hospitality; and it grew pitch dark before we quitted this -comfortable shelter from the piercing winds, which blow almost -perpetually over the Escurial, and returned to Madrid. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco's.--Curious assemblage in his - long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern - dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini in - despair.--Solecisms in dancing. - - -The mules galloped back at so rapid a rate, and their conductors bawled -and screamed so lustily to encourage their exertions, that half my -recollections of the Escurial were whirled out of my head before I -reached my old quarters at the Cruz de Malta. I had quite forgotten, -amongst other things, that I had actually accepted a most pressing -invitation to a concert and ball at Pacheco's this very evening. - -Pacheco is an old Portuguese, immensely rich, and who had been immensely -favoured in the days of his youth by his august countrywoman, Queen -Barbara, the consort of Ferdinand the sixth, and the patroness of -Farinelli. He is uncle to madame Arriaga, her most Faithful Majesty's -most faithful and favourite attendant, and a person of such worship, -that courtiers, ministers, and prelates, are too happy to congregate at -his house, whenever he takes it into his head to allow them an -opportunity. - -Though I had been half petrified by my cold ramble through the Escurial, -under the prior's still more chilling auspices, I had quite life enough -left to obey Pacheco's summons with alacrity; and as I expected to dance -a great deal, I put on my dancing-dress, that of a maxo, with ties and -tags, and trimmings and buttons, redecilla and all. - -I must confess, however, that I felt rather abashed and disappointed, -upon entering Pacheco's long pompous gallery, to find myself in the -midst of diplomatic and ministerial personages, assembled in stiff gala -to do honour to Achmet Vassif, whose musicians were seated on the carpet -howling forth a deplorable ditty, composed, as the Armenian interpreter -informed me, by one of the most impassioned and lovesick dilettantes of -the east; no strain I ever heard was half so lugubrious, not even that -of a dog baying the moon, or owls making their complaints to it. - -I could not help telling the ambassador, without the smallest -circumlocution, that his tabor and pipe people I heard the other day -accompanying a dulcimer, were far more worthy of praise than his vocal -attendants; but this truth, like most others, did not exactly please; -and I fear my reputation for musical connoisseurship was completely -forfeited in his excellency's estimation, for he looked a little glum -upon the occasion. What surprised me most, after all, was the patience -with which the whole assembly listened for full three-quarters of an -hour to these languorous wailings. - -Amongst the audience, none bore the severe infliction with a greater -degree of evangelical resignation than the grand inquisitor and the -archbishop of Toledo; both these prelates have not only the look, but -the character of beneficence, which promises a truce to the faggot and -pitch-barrel; the expression of the archbishop's countenance in -particular is most engagingly mild and pleasing. He came up to me -without the least reserve or formality, and taking me by the hand, said -with a cheerful smile, "I see you are equipped for a dance, and have -adopted our fashion; we all long to judge whether an Englishman can -enter (as I hear you can) into the extravagant spirit of our national -dances. I will speak to Pacheco, and desire him to form a diversion in -your favour, by calling off these doleful minstrels to the rinfresco -prepared for them." And so he did, and there was an end of the concert, -to my infinite joy, and the no less delight of the villa mayors and -sabbatinis, with whom, without a moment's farther delay, I sprang forth -in a bolero. - -Down came all the Spanish musicians from their formal orchestra, too -happy to escape its trammels; away went the foreign regulars, taking -vehement pinches of snuff, with the most unequivocal expressions of -anger and indignation. A circle was soon formed, a host of guitars put -in immediate requisition, and never did I hear such wild, extravagant, -passionate modulations. - -Boccharini, who led and presided over the Duchess of Ossuna's concerts, -and who had been lent to Pacheco as a special favour, witnessed these -most original deviations from all established musical rule with the -utmost contempt and dismay. He said to me in a loud whisper, "If _you_ -dance and _they_ play in this ridiculous manner, I shall never be able -to introduce a decent style into our musical world here, which I -flattered myself I was on the very point of doing. What possesses you? -Is it the devil? Who could suppose that a reasonable being, an -Englishman of all others, would have encouraged these inveterate -barbarians in such absurdities. There's a chromatic scream! there's a -passage! We have heard of robbing time; this is murdering it. What! -again! Why, this is worse than a convulsive hiccup, or the last rattle -in the throat of a dying malefactor. Give me the Turkish howlings in -preference; they are not so obtrusive and impudent." - -So saying, he moved off with a semi-seria stride, and we danced on with -redoubled delight and joy. The quicker we moved, the more intrepidly we -stamped with our feet, the more sonorously we snapped our fingers, the -better reconciled the sublime Effendi appeared to be with me. He forgot -my critiques upon his vocal performers: he rose up from his snug -cushion, and nodded his turbaned head, and expressed his delight, not -only by word and gesture, but in a most comfortable orientalish sort of -chuckling. As to the rest of the company, the Spanish part at least, -they were so much animated, that not less than twenty voices accompanied -the bolero with its appropriate words in full chorus, and with a glow of -enthusiasm that inspired my lovely partners and myself with such energy, -that we outdid all our former outdancings. - -"Is it possible," exclaimed an old fandango-fancier of great -notoriety--"is it possible, that a son of the cold north can have learnt -all our rapturous flings and stampings?"--"The French never _could_, or -rather never _would_," observed a Monsieur Gaudin, one of the Duke de la -V----'s secretaries, who was standing by perfectly astounded. - -Who persecute like renegades? who are so virulent against their former -sect as fresh converts to another? This was partly my case; though my -dancing and musical education had been strictly orthodox, according to -the precepts of Mozart and Sacchini, of Vestris and Gardel, I declared -loudly there was no music but Spanish, no dancing but Spanish, no -salvation in either art out of the Spanish pale, and that, compared with -such rapturous melodies, such inspired movements, the rest of Europe -afforded only examples of dullness and insipidity. I would not allow my -former instructors a spark of merit; and at the very moment I was -committing solecisms in good dancing at every step, and stamping and -piaffing like a courser but half-broken in at a mange, I felt and -looked as firmly persuaded of the truth of my impudent assertions as the -greatest bigot of his nonsense in some untried new-fangled superstition. -Success, founded or unfounded, is everything in this world. We too well -know the sad fate of merit. I am more than apt to conjecture we were but -very slightly entitled to any applause; yet the transports we called -forth were as fervid as those the famous Le Pique excited at Naples in -the zenith of his popularity. - -The British and American ministers, who were standing by the whole time, -enjoyed this amusing proof of Spanish fanaticism, in its profane mood, -with all the zest of intelligent and shrewd observers. Pisani, the -Venetian ambassador, inclined decidedly to the southern side of the -question. He was bound, heart and soul, by a variety of silken ties to -the Spanish interest, and had almost forgotten the fascinations of -Venice in those of Andalusia. Consequently I had his vote in my favour. -Not so that of the Duchess of Ossuna, Boccharini's patroness. She said -to me in the plainest language, "You are making the greatest fool of -yourself I ever beheld; and as to those riotous self-taught hoydens, -your partners, I tell you what, they are scarcely worthy to figure in -the third rank at a second-rate theatre. Come along with me, and I will -present you to my mother, the Countess of Benevente, who gives a very -different sort of education to the charming young women she admits to -her court." - -I had heard of this court and its delectabilities, and at the same time -been informed that its throne was a faro-table, to which the initiated -were imperatively expected to become tributaries. The sovereign, old -Benevente, is the most determined hag of her rout-giving, card-playing -species in Europe, of the highest birth, the highest consequence, and -the principal disposer, by long habit and old cortejo-ship, of Florida -Blanca's good graces. - -Notwithstanding the severe regulations against gambling societies, most -severely enforced at Madrid; notwithstanding the prime minister's -morality, and the still higher morality of his royal master, this great -lady's aberrations of every kind are most complaisantly winked at; she -is allowed not only to set up under her own princely roof a refuge for -the desolate, in the most delicate style of Spanish refinement, for the -kind purpose of enchanting all persons sufficiently favoured by fortune -to merit admission to her parties, by every blandishment and -languishment the most seductive eyes of Seville and Cadiz she had -collected together could throw around them; but so sure as the hour of -midnight arrived, and Florida Blanca (who never fails paying his devoirs -to the countess every evening) had made his retiring bow, so sure a -confidential party of illuminati, of unsleeping partners in the -gambling-line, made their appearance, heavily laden with well-stored -caskets. - -Now came the tug of play, and hope, and fear in all their thrilling and -throbbing alternations; but, to say truth, I was so completely jaded and -worn-out that I partook of neither, and was too happy, after losing -almost unconsciously a few dobras, to be allowed to retire; old -Benevente calling out to me, with the croak of a vulture scenting its -prey from afar, _Cavallero Inglez, a maana a la misma hora_. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, - Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King's sleeping - apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of the - Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don Gabriel and the - Infanta.--Her Royal Highness's affecting recollections of - home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition of national manners - there. - - -Monday, 24th Dec. 1787. - -I shall have the megrims for want of exercise, like my friend Achmet -Vassif, if I don't alter my way of life. This morning I only took a -listless saunter in the Prado, and returned early to dinner, with a very -slight provision of fresh air in my lungs. Roxas was with me, hurrying -me out of all appetite that I might see the palace by daylight; and so -to the palace we went, and it was luckily a bright ruddy afternoon, the -sun gilding a grand confusion of mountainous clouds, and chequering the -wild extent of country between Madrid and the Escurial with powerful -effects of light and shade. - -I cannot praise the front of the palace very warmly. In the centre of -the edifice starts up a whimsical sort of turret, with gilt bells, the -vilest ornament that could possibly have been imagined. The interior -court is of pure and classic architecture, and the great staircase so -spacious and well-contrived that you arrive almost imperceptibly at the -portal of the guard-chamber. Every door-case and window recess of this -magnificent edifice gleams with the richest polished marbles: the -immense and fortress-like thickness of the walls, and double panes of -the strongest glass, exclude the keen blasts which range almost -uninterrupted over the wide plains of Castile, and preserve an admirable -temperature throughout the whole extent of these royal rooms, the -grandeur, and at the same time comfort, of which cannot possibly be -exceeded. - -The king, the prince of Asturias, and the chief part of their -attendants, were all absent hunting in the park of the Escurial; but the -reposteros, or curtain-drawers of the palace, having received particular -orders for my admittance, I enjoyed the entire liberty of wandering -about unrestrained and unmolested. Roxas having left me to join a gay -party of the royal body-guard in Masserano's apartments, I remained in -total solitude, surrounded by the pure unsullied works of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters, fresh as the flowers of a -parterre in early morning, and many of them as beautiful in point of -hues. - -Not a door being closed, I penetrated through the chamber of the throne -even into the old king's sleeping-apartment, which, unlike the dormitory -of most of his subjects, is remarkable for extreme neatness. A book of -pious orisons, with engravings by Spanish artists, and containing, -amongst other prayers in different languages, one adapted to the -exclusive use of majesty, _Regi solo proprius_, was lying on his -praying-desk; and at the head of the richly-canopied, but uncurtained -bed, I noticed with much delight an enamelled tablet by Mengs, -representing the infant Saviour appearing to Saint Anthony of Padua. - -In this room, as in all the others I passed through, without any -exception, stood cages of gilded wire, of different forms and sizes, -and in every cage a curious exotic bird, in full song, each trying to -out-sing his neighbour. Mingled with these warblings was heard at -certain intervals the low chime of musical clocks, stealing upon the ear -like the tones of harmonic glasses. No other sound broke in any degree -the general stillness, except, indeed, the almost inaudible footsteps of -several aged domestics, in court-dresses of the cut and fashion -prevalent in the days of the king's mother, Elizabeth Farnese, gliding -along quietly and cautiously to open the cages, and offer their inmates -such dainties as highly-educated birds are taught to relish. Much -fluttering and cowering down ensued in consequence of these attentions, -and much rubbing of bills and scratching of poles on my part, as well as -on that of the smiling old gentlemen. - -As soon as the ceremony of pampering these feathered favourites had been -most affectionately performed, I availed myself of the light reflected -from a clear sun-set to examine the pictures, chiefly of a religious -cast, with which these stately apartments are tapestried; particularly -the Madonna del Spasimo, that vivid representation of the blessed -Virgin's maternal agony, when her divine son, fainting under the -burthen of the cross, approached to ascend the mount of torture, and -complete the awful mystery of redemption. Raphael never attained in any -other of his works such solemn depth of colour, such majesty of -character, as in this triumph of his art. "Never was sorrow like unto -the sorrow" he has depicted in the Virgin's countenance and attitude; -never was the expression of a sublime and God-like calm in the midst of -acute suffering conveyed more closely home to the human heart than in -the face of Christ. - -I stood fixed in the contemplation of this holy vision--for such I -almost fancied it to be--till the approaching shadows of night had -overspread every recess of these vast apartments: still I kept intensely -gazing upon the picture. I knew it was time to retire,--still I gazed -on. I was aware that Roxas had been long expecting me in Masserano's -apartments,--still I could not snatch myself away; the Virgin mother -with her outstretched arms still haunted me. The song of the birds had -ceased, as well as the soft diapason of the self-playing organs;--all -was hushed, all tranquil. I departed at length with the languid -unwillingness of an enthusiast exhausted by the intensity of his -feelings and loth to arouse himself from the bosom of grateful -illusions. - -Just as I reached the portal of the great stairs, whom should I meet but -Noronha advancing towards me with a hurried step. "Where are you going -so fast?" said he to me, "and where have you been staying so long? I -have been sending repeatedly after you to no purpose; you must come with -me immediately to the Infanta and Don Gabriel, they want to ask you a -thousand questions about the Ajuda: the letters you brought them from -Marialva, and the archbishop in particular, have, I suppose, inspired -that wish; and as royal wishes, you know, cannot be too speedily -gratified, you must kiss their hands this very evening. I am to be your -introductor."--"What!" said I, "in this unceremonious dress?"--"Yes," -said the ambassador, "I have heard that you are not a pattern of -correctness in these matters." I wished to have been one in this -instance. At this particular moment I was in no trim exteriorly or -interiorly for courtly introductions. I thought of nothing but birds and -pictures, and had much rather have been presented to a cockatoo than to -the greatest monarch in Christendom. - -However, I put on the best face I was able, and we proceeded together -very placidly to that part of the palace assigned to Don Gabriel and his -blooming bride. The doors of a coved ante-chamber flew open, and after -passing through an enfilade of saloons peopled with ladies-in-waiting -and pages, (some mere children,) we entered a lofty chamber hung with -white satin, formed into compartments by a rich embroidery of gold and -colours, and illuminated by a lustre of rock crystal. - -At the farther extremity of the apartment, stood the Infant Don Gabriel, -leaning against a table covered with velvet, on which I observed a case -of large golden antique medals he was in the very act of contemplating: -the Infanta was seated near. She rose up most graciously to hold out a -beautiful hand, which I kissed with unfeigned fervour: her countenance -is most prepossessing; the same florid complexion, handsome features, -and open exhilarating smile which distinguishes her brother the Prince -of Brazil. - -"Ah," said her royal highness with great earnestness, "you have then -lately seen my dear mother, and walked perhaps in the little garden I -was so fond of; did you notice the fine flowers that grow there? -particularly the blue carnation; we have not such flowers at Madrid; -this climate is not like that of Portugal, nor are our views so -pleasant; I miss the azure Tagus, and your ships continually sailing up -it; but when you write to your friend Marialva and the archbishop, tell -them, I possess what no other prospect upon earth can equal, the smiles -of an adored husband." - -The Infant now approached towards me with a look of courteous benignity -that reminded me strongly of the Bourbons, nor could I trace in his -frank kindly manner the least leaven of Austrian hauteur or Spanish -starchness. After inquiring somewhat facetiously how the Duke d'Alafoens -and the Portuguese academicians proceeded on their road to the temple of -fame, he asked me whether our universities continued to be the favoured -abode of classical attainments, and if the books they printed were as -correct and as handsome now as in the days of the Stuarts; adding that -his private collection contained some copies which had formerly -belonged to the celebrated Count of Oxford. This was far too good an -opportunity of putting in a word to the praise and glory of his own -famous translation of Sallust, to be neglected; so I expressed -everything he could have wished to hear upon the subject. - -"You are very good," observed his royal highness; "but to tell you the -truth, it was hard work for me. I began it, and so I went on, and lost -many a day's wholesome exercise in our parks and forests: however, such -as it is, I performed my task without any assistance, though you may -perhaps have heard the contrary." - -It was now Noronha's turn to begin complimenting, which he did with all -the high court mellifluence of an accredited family ambassador: whether, -indeed, the Infant received as gospel all the fine things that were said -to him I won't answer, but he looked even kinder and more gracious than -at our first entrance. The Infanta recurred again and again to the -subject of the Ajuda, and appeared so visibly affected that she awakened -all my sympathies; for I, too, had left those behind me on the banks of -the Tagus for whom I felt a fond and indelible regard. As we were -making our retiring bows, I saw tears gathering in her eyes, whilst she -kept gracefully waving her hand to bid us a happy night. - -The impressions I received from this interview were not of a nature to -allow my enjoying with much vivaciousness the next scene to which I was -transported--the head-quarters of Masserano, whom I found in unusually -high spirits surrounded by a train of gay young officers, rapping out -the rankest Castilian oaths, quaffing their flowing cups of champagne -and val de peas, and playing off upon each other, not exactly the most -decorous specimens of practical wit. - -Roxas looked rather abashed at so unrefined an exhibition of national -manners: Noronha had taken good care to keep aloof, and I regretted not -having followed his example. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with him.--History of - a Ghost-seer. - - -It is not at every corner of life that we stumble upon an intrinsically -singular character: to-day however, at Noronha's, I fell in with a Saxon -count,[27] who justly answers to that description. This man is not only -thoroughly imbued with the theoretical mysticism of the German school, -but has most firmly persuaded himself, and hundreds besides, that he -holds converse with the souls of the departed. Though most impressive -and even extravagant upon this subject, when started, he proves himself -a man of singular judgment upon most others, is a good geometrician, an -able chymist, a mineralogist of no ordinary proficiency, and has made -discoveries in the art of smelting metals, which have been turned -already to useful purpose. Yet nothing can beat out of this cool -reflective head, that magical operations may be performed to evident -effect, and the devil most positively evocated. - -I thought, at first sight, there was a something uncouth and ghostly in -his appearance, that promised strange communications; he has a careworn -look, a countenance often convulsed with apparently painful twitches, -and a lofty skull, set off with bristling hair, powdered as white as -Caucasus. - -Notwithstanding I by no means courted his acquaintance, he was resolved -to make up to me, and dissipate by the smoothest address he could -assume, any prejudices his uncommon cast of features might have -inspired. Drawing his chair close to mine, whilst Noronha and his party -were busily engaged at voltarete, he tried to allure my attention by -throwing out hints of the wonders within reach of a person born under -the smile of certain constellations: that I was the person he meant to -insinuate, I have little doubt. Having heard that fortune had conferred -upon me some few of her golden gifts, he thought, perhaps, that I might -be _fused_ to advantage, like any other lump of the precious metals. Be -his motives what they may, he certainly took as many pains to wind -himself into my good opinion as if I had actually been the prime -favourite of a planet, or a distant cousin by some diabolical -intermarriage, in the style of one of the Plantagenet matches, of old -Beelzebub himself. - -After a good deal of conversation upon different subjects, chiefly of a -sombrous nature, happening to ask him if he had known Schrffer, the -most renowned ghost-seer in all Germany,--"Intimately well," was his -reply; "a bold young man, not so free, alas! from sensual taint as the -awful career he had engaged in demanded,--he rushed upon danger -unprepared, at an unhallowed moment--his fate was terrible. I passed a -week with him not six months before he disappeared in the frightful -manner you have heard of; it was a week of mental toil and suffering, of -fasts and privations of various natures, and of sights sufficiently -appalling to drive back the whole current of the blood from the heart. -It was at this period that, returning one dark and stormy night from -trying experiments upon living animals, more excruciating than any the -keenest anatomist ever perpetrated, I found lying upon my chair, coiled -up in a circle like the symbol of eternity, an enormous snake of a -deadly lead colour; it neither hissed nor moved for several minutes: -during this pause, whilst I remained aghast looking full upon it, a -voice more like the whisper of trees than any sound of human utterance, -articulated certain words, which I have retained, and used to powerful -effect in moments of peril and extreme urgency." - -I shall not easily forget the strange inquisitive look he gave me whilst -making this still stranger communication; he saw my curiosity was -excited, and flattered himself he had made upon me the impression he -meditated; but when I asked, with the tone of careless levity, what -became of the snake on the cushion, after the voice had ceased, he shook -his white locks somewhat angrily, and croaked forth with a formidable -German accent, "Ask no more--ask no more--you are not in a disposition -at present sufficiently pure and serious to comprehend what I _might_ -disclose. Ask no more."--For this time at least I most implicitly obeyed -him. - -Promising to call upon me and continue our conversation any day or hour -I might choose to appoint, he glided off so imperceptibly, that had I -been a little more persuaded of the possibility of supernatural -occurrences, I might have believed he had actually vanished. "A good -riddance," said Noronha; "I don't half like that man, nor can I make out -why Florida Blanca is so gracious to him."--"I rather suspect he is a -spy upon us all," observed the Sardinian ambassadress, who made one of -the voltarete party; "and though he guessed right about the winning card -last night at the Countess of Benevente's, I am determined not to invite -him to dinner again in a hurry." - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an - infidel in the German style.--Mass in the chapel of the - Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba's villa.--Destruction by a young - French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French ambassador's - ball.--Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi. - - -Sunday, Jan. 13th. - -Kauffman[28] accompanied me to the Prado this morning, where we met -Madame Bendicho and her faithful Expilly, (a famous tactician in war or -peace,) who told me that somebody I thought particularly interesting was -not far off. This intelligence imparted to me such animation, that -Kauffman was obliged to take long strides to equal my pace. I traversed -the whole Prado without meeting the object of my pursuit, and found -myself almost unconsciously in the court before the ugly front of the -church of Atocha. A tide of devotees carried us into the chapel of the -Virgin, which is hung round with trophies, and ex-voto's, legs, arms, -and fingers, in wax and plaster. - -Kauffman is three parts an infidel in the German style, but I advised -him to kneel with something like Castilian solemnity, and hear out a -mass which was none of the shortest, the priest being old, and much -given to the wiping and adjusting of spectacles, a pair of which, -uncommonly large and lustrous, I thought he would never have succeeded -in fitting to his nose. - -We happened to kneel under the shade of some banners which the British -lion was simple enough to let slip out of his paws during the last war. -The colours of fort St. Philip dangled immediately above my head. -Amongst the crowd of Our Lady's worshippers I espied one of the gayest -of my ball-room acquaintances, the young Duke of Arion, looking like a -strayed sheep, and smiting his breast most piteously. - -A tiresome salve regina being ended, I measured back my steps to the -Prado, and at length discovered the person of all others I wished most -to see, strictly guarded by mamma. I accompanied them to their door, -and returned loiteringly and lingeringly home, where I found Infantado, -who had been waiting for me above half an hour. With him I rode out on -the Toledo road to see a pompous bridge, or rather viaduct; for the -river it spans, even in this season, is scarcely copious enough to turn -the model of a mill-wheel, much less the reality. - -From this spot we went to a villa lately purchased by the Duchess of -Alba, and which, I was told, Rubens had once inhabited. True enough, we -found a conceited young French artist in the arabesque and cupid line, -busily employed in pouncing out the last memorials in this spot of that -great painter; reminiscences of favourite pictures he had thrown off in -fresco, upon what appeared a rich crimson damask ground. Yes, I -witnessed this vandalish operation, and saw large flakes of stucco -imprinted with the touches of Rubens fall upon the floor, and heard the -wretch who was perpetrating the irreparable act sing, "Veillons mes -soeurs, veillons encorrre," with a strong Parisian accent, all the -while he was slashing away. - -My sweet temper was so much ruffled by this spectacle, that I begged to -be excused any further excursion, and returned home to dress and -compose myself, while Infantado went back to his palace. I soon joined -him, having been invited to dine with his right virtuous and estimable -papa. Thank heaven the rage for Frenchified decoration has not yet -reached this plain but princely abode, which remains in noble Castilian -simplicity, with all its famed pictures untouched and uncontaminated. - -As soon as the old duke had retired to his evening's devotions, we -hurried to the French ambassador's ball, where I met fewer saints than -sinners, and saw nothing particularly edifying, except the semi-royal -race of the Medina Celis dancing "high and disposedly." Cogolhudo, the -heir-apparent of this great house, is a good-natured, busy personage, -but his illustrious consort, who has been recently appointed to the -important office of Camerara mayor, or mistress of the robes to the -image of Our Lady of La Soledad, is a great deal less kindly and -affable.[29] - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens of the - Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d'Aranda.--State of - Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d'Aranda's - toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame Badaan.--Cortejos off - duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A curious group.--A dance. - - -Sunday, 23rd. - -Every morning I have the pleasure of supplying the Grand Signior's -representative with rolls and brioche, baked at home for my breakfast; -and this very day he came himself in one of the king's lumbering state -coaches, with some of his special favourites, to thank me for these -piping hot attentions. We had a great deal of conversation about the -marvels of London, though he seemed stoutly convinced that in every -respect Islembul exceeded it ten times over. - -As soon as he moved off, I strolled to the gardens of the Buen Retiro, -which contains neither statues nor fountains worth describing. They -cover a vast extent of sandy ground, in which there is no prevailing -upon anything vegetable or animal to thrive, except ostriches, a troop -of which were striding about in high spirits, apparently as much at home -as in their own native parched-up deserts. - -Roxas dined with us, and we went together in the evening to the French -ambassador's, the Duke de la V****. His daughter, a fine young woman of -eighteen or nineteen, is married to the Prince de L****, a smart -stripling, who has scarcely entered his fifteenth year; the ambassador -is no trifling proficient in political intrigue, no common-place twister -and turner in the paths of diplomacy, looks about him with calm and -polished indifference, though full of hazardous schemes and projects; -ever in secret ferment, and a Jesuit to the heart's core. I could not -help noticing his quiet, observing eye--the still eye of a serpent lying -perdue in a cave. In his address and manners he is quite a model of -high-bred ease, without the slightest tincture of pedantry or -affectation. - -Madame la Duchesse is a great deal fonder of fine phrases, which she -does not always reserve for grand occasions. Their son, the Prince de -C***, amused me beyond bounds with his lightning-like flashes of wit and -merriment, at the expense of Madrid and its tertullias. Upon the whole, -I like this family very much, and ardently wish they may like me. - -I could not stay with them so long as I desired, Roxas having promised -to present me to Madame d'Aranda, whose devoted friend and _cortejo_ he -has the consummate pleasure to be. Happy the man who has the good -fortune of being attached by such delicious, though not quite strictly -sacred ties, to so charming a little creature; but in general the state -of cortejo-ism is far from enviable. You are the sworn victim of all the -lady's caprices, and can never move out of the rustle of her black silk -petticoats, or beyond the wave of her fan, without especial permission, -less frequently granted with complacence than refused with asperity. I -imagine she has very good-naturedly given him leave of absence to show -me about this royal village, or else I should think he would hardly -venture to spare me so much of his company. - -We found her sitting _en famille_ with her sister, and two young boys -her brothers, over a silver brazier in a snug interior apartment hung -with a bright valencia satin. She showed me the most pleasing marks of -civility and attention, and ordered her own apartments to be lighted up, -that I might see its magnificent furniture to advantage. The bed, of the -richest blue velvet trimmed with point lace, is beautifully shaped, and -placed in a spacious and deep recess hung round with an immense -profusion of ample curtains. - -I wonder architects and fitters up of apartments do not avail themselves -more frequently of the powers of drapery. Nothing produces so grand and -at the same time so comfortable an effect. The moment I have an -opportunity I will set about constructing a tabernacle, larger than the -one I arranged at Ramalha, and indulge myself in every variety of plait -and fold that can possibly be invented. - -Madame d'Aranda's toilet, designed by Moite the sculptor and executed by -Auguste, is by far the most exquisite _chef-d'oeuvre_ of the kind I -ever saw. Poor thing! she has every exterior delight the pomps and -vanities of the world can give; but she is married to a man old enough -to be her grandfather, and looks as pale and drooping as a narcissus or -lily of the valley would appear if stuck in Abraham's bosom, and -continually breathed upon by that venerable patriarch. - -After passing a delightful hour in what appeared to me an ethereal sort -of fairy-land, we went to a far more earthly abode, that of a Madame -Badaan, who is so obliging as to give immense assemblies once or twice a -week, in rather confined apartments. This small, but convenient -habitation, is no idle or unimportant resort for cortejos off duty, or -in search of novel adventures. Several of these disbanded worthies were -lounging about in the mean time, quite lackadaisically. There was a -blaze of beauty in every corner of the room, sufficient to enchant those -the least given to being enchanted; and there frisked the two little -Sabatinis, half Spanish, half Italian, sporting their neatly turned -ankles; and there sat Madame de Villamayor in all her pride, and her -daughters so full of promise; and the Marchioness of Santa Cruz, with -her dark hair and blue eyes, in all her loveliness. How delighted my -friend, the Effendi, must have been upon entering such a paradise, which -he soon did after we arrived there, followed by his Armenian -interpreter, whom I like better than the Greek, Timoni, with his prying, -squirrelish look, and malicious propensities. - -The ambassador found me out almost immediately, and taking me to an -angle of the apartment, where a well-cushioned divan had been prepared -for his lollification, made me sit down by him whether I would or not. -We were just settled, when a bevy of young tits dressed out in a -fantastic, blowzy style, with sparkling eyes and streaming ribbons, drew -their chairs round us, and began talking a strange lingua-franca, -composed of three or four different languages. We must have formed a -curious group; I was declaiming and gesticulating with all my might, -reciting scraps of Hafiz and Mesihi, whilst the ladies, none of the -tallest, who were seated on low chairs, kept perking up their pretty -little inquisitive faces in the very beard of the stately Moslem, whose -solemn demeanour formed an amusing contrast to their giddy vivacity. - -Madame Badaan and her spouse, the very best people in the world, and the -readiest to afford their company all possible varieties of -accommodation, sent for the most famous band of musicians Madrid could -boast of, and proposed a dance for the entertainment of his bearded -excellency. Accordingly, thirteen or fourteen couples started, and -boleroed and fandangoed away upon a thick carpet for an hour or two, -without intermission. There are scarcely any boarded floors in Madrid, -so the custom of dancing upon rugs is universally established. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange - medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the - Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by - Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present - reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna's house.--Apathy - pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. - - -Tuesday, December 1st, 1795. - -It was on a clear bright morning (scarce any frost) that we left a -wretched place called Villatoba, falling into ruins like almost all the -towns and villages I have seen in Spain. The sky was so transparent, so -pearly, and the sunbeams so fresh and reviving, that the country -appeared pleasant in spite of its flatness and aridity. Every tree has -been cut down, and all chance of their being replaced precluded by the -wandering flocks of sheep, goats and swine, which rout, and grout, and -nibble uncontrolled and unmolested. - -At length, after a tedious drive through vast tracts of desolate -country, scarce a house, scarce a shrub, scarce a human being to meet -with, we descended a rapid declivity, and I once more found myself in -the valley of Aranjuez. The avenues of poplar and plane have shot up to -a striking elevation since I saw them last. The planes on the banks of -the Tagus incline most respectfully towards its waters; they are -vigorously luxuriant, although planted only seven years ago, as the -gardener informed me. - -Charles the Fifth's elms in the island-garden close to the palace are -decaying apace. I visited the nine venerable stumps close to a hideous -brick-ruin; the largest measures forty or fifty feet in girth; the roots -are picturesquely fantastic. The fountains, like the shades in which -they are embowered, are rapidly going to decay: the bronze Venus, at the -fountain which takes its name from Don John of Austria, has lost her -arm. - -Notwithstanding the dreariness of the season with all its accompaniment -of dry leaves and faded herbage, this historic garden had still charms; -the air was mild, and the sunbeams played on the Tagus, and many a bird -flitted from spray to spray. Several long alleys of the loftiest elms, -their huge rough trunks mantled with ivy, and their grotesque roots -advancing and receding like grotto-work into the walk, struck me as -singularly pleasing. - -The palace has not been long completed; the additions made by Charles -the Third agree not ill with the original edifice. It is a comfortable, -though not a magnificent abode; walls thick, windows cheerfully glazed -in two panels, neat low chimney-pieces in many of the apartments; few -traces of the days of the Philips; scarce any furniture that bespeak an -ancient family. A flimsy modern style, half Italian, half French, -prevails. Even the pictures are, in point of subjects, preservation, -originality, and masters, as strangely jumbled together as in the -dominions of an auctioneer. This may be accounted for by their being -collected indiscriminately by the present King, whilst prince of -Asturias. Amongst innumerable trash, I noticed a Crucifixion by Mengs; -not overburthened with expression, but finely coloured; the back-ground -and sky most gloomily portentous, and producing a grand effect of light -and shade. The interior of a gothic church, by Peter Neef, so fine, so -clear, so silvery in point of tint, as to reconcile me, (for the moment, -at least,) to this harsh, stiff master; the figures exquisite, the -preservation perfect; no varnish, no retouches. - -A set of twelve small cabinet pictures, touched with admirable spirit by -Teniers, the subjects taken from the Gierusalemme Liberata, treated as -familiarly as if the boozy painter had been still copying his -pot-companions. Armida's palace is a little round summer-house; she -herself, habited like a burgher's frouw in her holiday garments, holds a -Nuremberg-shaped looking-glass up to the broad vulgar face of a boorish -Rinaldo. The fair Naiads, comfortably fat, and most invitingly smirkish, -are naked to be sure, but a pile of furbelowed garments and farthingales -is ostentatiously displayed on the bank of the water; close by a small -table covered with a neat white tablecloth, and garnished with silver -tankards, cold pie, and salvers of custard and jellies. All these vulgar -accessories are finished with scrupulous delicacy. - -Several oratories open into the royal apartments. One set apart for the -Queen is adorned with a very costly, and at the same time beautiful -altar, rich, simple, and majestic; not an ornament is lavished in vain. -Two Corinthian columns of a most beautiful purple and white marble, -sustain a pediment, as highly polished and as richly mottled as any -agate I ever beheld; the capitals are bronze splendidly gilt, so is the -foliage of the consoles supporting the slab which forms the altar. The -design, the materials, the workmanship, are all Spanish, and do the -nation credit. - -The king's oratory is much larger, and not ill-designed; the proportion -is good, about twenty-six by twenty-two, and twenty-four high, besides a -solemn recess for the altar. The walls entirely covered with -fresco-painting; saints, prophets, clouds, and angels, in grand -confusion. The sides of the arch, and all the frame of the altar-piece, -are profusely and solidly gilt. A plinth of jasper, and a skirting about -three feet high, of a light-grey marble, streaked with black, not unlike -the capricious ramifications on mocho-stones, and polished as a mirror, -is continued round the room, so that nothing meets the eye but the rich -gleam of gold, painting, and marble, all blended together in one -glowing tint. The pavement, too, of different Spanish marbles, is a -_chef-d'oeuvre_ of workmanship. I particularly admired the soft -ivory-hue of the white marble, but my conductor allowed it little merit -when compared with that of Italy: I think him mistaken in this remark, -and heartily wish him so in many others. - -This conductor, an old snuffling domestic of the late king, was rather -forward in making his remarks upon times present. A sort of Piedmontese -in my train, I believe the master of the fonda where I lodge, pointing -to a _manege_ now building, asked for whom it was designed, the King or -the Duke d'Alcudia? "For both, no doubt," was the answer; "what serves -one serves the other." In the royal tribune, I was informed, with a -woful shrug, that the King, thank God! continued to be exact and fervent -in his devotions; never missing mass a single day, and frequently -spending considerable time in mental prayer; but that the Queen was -scandalously remiss, and seldom appeared in the chapels, except when -some slender remains of etiquette render her presence indispensable. - -The chapel, repaired after designs of Sabbatini, an old Italian -architect, much in favour with Charles the Third, has merit, and is -remarkable for the just distribution of light, which produces a solemn -religious effect. The three altars are noble, and their paintings good. -One in particular, on the right, dedicated to St. Anthony, immediately -attracted my attention by the effulgence of glory amidst which the -infant Jesus is descending to caress the kneeling saint, whose attitude, -and youthful, enthusiastic countenance, have great expression. The -colouring is warm and harmonious; Maella is the painter. - -I inquired after a remarkable room in this palace, called in the plan -_Salon de los Funciones_, and vulgarly _el Coliseo_. The ceiling was -painted by Mengs, and esteemed one of his capital works: here Ferdinand -and Barbara, the most musical of sovereigns, used to melt in ecstasies -at the soft warblings of Farinelli and Egiziello--but, alas! the scene -of their amusements, like themselves and their warblers, is no more. -Not later than last summer, this grand theatrical apartment was divided -into a suite of shabby, bandboxical rooms for the accommodation of the -Infant of Parma. No mercy was shown to the beautiful roof. In some -places, legs and folds of drapery are still visible; but the workmen are -hammering and plastering at a great rate, and in a few days whitewash -will cover all. - -Coming out of the palace, and observing how deserted and melancholy the -walks, garden, and avenues appeared, I was told, that in a few weeks a -total change would take place, for the court was expected on the 6th of -January, to remain six months, and that every pleasure followed in its -train. Shoals of gamblers, and ladies of easy virtue of all ranks, ages, -and descriptions. Every barrier which Charles the Third, of chaste and -pious memory, attempted to oppose to the wanton inclinations of his -subjects, has been broken down in the present reign; boundless freedom -of conduct prevails, and the most disgusting debauchery riots in these -lovely groves, which deserve to be set apart for elegant and rural -pleasures. - -In my walks I passed a huge edifice lately built for the favourite -Alcudia. Common report accuses it of being more magnificently furnished -than the royal residence; but as I did not enter it, I shall content -myself with noting down, that it boasts nineteen windows in front, and a -plain Tuscan portal with handsome granite pillars. Adjoining is a house -belonging to the Duchess of Ossuna, full of workmen, painters, and -stuccadors: a goggle-eyed Milanese, most fiercely conceited, is daubing -the walls with all his might and main. He is an architect too, at least -I have his word for it, and claims the merit, a great one as he -believes, of having designed a sort of ball-room, with many a festoon -and Bohemian glass-chandelier and coarse arabesque. The floor is -bricked, upon which thick mats or carpets are spread when dancing is -going forward. - -I was in hopes this tiresome custom of thumping mats and rugs with the -feet, to the brisk airs of boleros and fandangos, was exploded. No music -is more inspiring than the Spanish; what a pity they refuse themselves -the joy of rising a foot or two into the air at every step, by the help -of elastic boards. - -Next to this sort of a ball-room is a sort of an oval boudoir, and then -a sort of an octagon; all bad sorts of their kind. This confounded -painter is covering the oval with landscapes, not half so harmonious or -spirited as those which figure on Birmingham snuff-boxes or tea-boards. -He has a terrible partiality to blues and greens of the crudest tints. -Such colours affect my eyes as disagreeably as certain sounds my teeth, -when set on edge. I pity the Duchess of Ossuna, whose liberal desire of -encouraging the arts deserves better artists. In music she has been more -fortunate: Boccharini directed her band when I was last at Madrid; and I -remember with what transport she heard and applauded the Galli, to whom -she sent one morning a present of the most expensive trinkets, -carelessly heaped up upon a magnificent salver of massive silver, two or -three feet in diameter. - -The day closed as I was wandering about the Duchess's mansion, surprised -at the slovenly neglect of the furniture, not an article of which has -been moved out of the reach of dust, scaffoldings, the exhalations of -paint, and the still more pestilential exhalation of garlick-eating -workmen. Universal apathy and indifference to everything seems to -pervade the whole Iberian peninsula. If not caring what you eat or what -you drink is a virtue, so far the evangelical precept is obeyed. So it -is in Portugal, and so it is in Spain, and so it looks likely to be -world without end: to which, let the rest of Europe say amen; for were -these countries to open their long-closed eyes, cast off their trammels, -and rouse themselves to industry, they would soon surpass their -neighbours in wealth and population. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive rage - for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley of - Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals - there.--Degeneration of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 2nd, 1795. - -It was near eleven before a thick fog, which had arisen from the groves -and waters of Aranjuez, dispersed. I took advantage of a bright sunshine -to issue forth on horseback, and explore the extremities of the Calle de -la Reyna. Most of the ancient elms which compose this noble avenue, are -dead-topped, many have lost their flourishing heads since I was last -here, but on every side innumerable plantations of oak, elm, poplar, and -plane, are springing up in all the vigour and luxuriance of youth. I was -sorry to see many, very many acres of unmeaning shrubbery, serpentine -walks, and clumps of paltry flowers, encroaching upon the wild thickets -upon the banks of the Tagus. - -The King, the Queen, the favourite, are bitten by the rage of what they -fancy to be improvement, and are levelling ground, and smoothing banks, -and building rock-work, with pagodas and Chinese-railing. The laburnums, -weeping-willows, and flowering shrubs, which I admired so much seven -years ago in all their native luxuriance, are beginning to be trimmed -and tortured into what the gardener calls genteel shapes. Even the -course of the Tagus has been thwarted, and part of its waters diverted -into a broad ditch in order to form an island; flat, swampy, and dotted -over with exotic shrubs, to make room for which many a venerable arbele -and poplar has been laid low. - -Hard by stands a large brick mansion, just erected, in the dullest and -commonest Spanish taste, very improperly called Casa del Labrador. It -has nothing rural about it, not even a hen-roost or a hog-sty; but the -kitchen is snug and commodious, and to this his Catholic Majesty often -resorts, and cooks with his own royal hands, and for his own royal -self, creadillas, (alias lamb's fry,) garlick-omelets, and other savoury -messes, in the national style. - -Nothing delights the good-natured monarch so much as a pretence for -descending into low life, and creeping out of the sight of his court, -his council, and his people; therefore Madrid is almost totally -abandoned by him, and many capricious buildings are starting up in every -secluded corner of the royal parks and gardens. This last is the ugliest -and most unmeaning of all. I recollect being pleased with the casinos he -built whilst Prince of Asturias, at the Escurial and the Pardo. His -present advisers, in matters of taste, are inferior even to those who -direct his political movements; and the workmen, who obey the first, -still more unskilful and bungling than the generals, admirals, and -engineers, who carry the plans of the latter into execution. - -If they would but let Aranjuez alone, I should not care. Nature has -lavished her charms most bountifully on this valley; the wild hills -which close it in, though barren, are picturesquely-shaped; the Tagus -here winds along in the boldest manner, overhung by crooked willows and -lofty arbeles; now losing itself in almost impervious thickets, now -under-mining steep banks, laying rocks bare, and forming irregular coves -and recesses; now flowing smoothly through vast tracts of low shrubs, -aspens, and tamarisks; in one spot edged by the most delicate -greensward, in another by beds of mint and a thousand other fragrant -herbs. I saw numerous herds of deer bounding along in full enjoyment of -pasture and liberty; droves of horses, many of a soft cream-colour, were -frisking about under some gigantic alders; and I counted one hundred and -eighty cows, of a most remarkable size, in a green meadow, ruminating in -peace and plenty. - -The animal creation at Aranjuez seem, undoubtedly, to enjoy all the -blessings of an excellent government. The breed is peculiarly attended -to, and no pains or expense spared, to procure the finest bulls from -every quarter. Cows more beautifully dappled, more comfortably sleek, I -never beheld. - -If the race of grandees could, by judicious crossing, be sustained as -successfully, Spain would not have to lament her present scurvy, -ill-favoured generation of nobility. Should they be suffered to dwindle -much longer, and accumulate estates and diseases by eternal -intermarriages in the same family, I expect to see them on all-fours -before the next century is much advanced in its course. These little -men, however, are not without some sparks of a lofty, resolute spirit; -very few, indeed, have bowed the knee to the Baal of the present hour, -to the image which the King has set up. A train of eager, hungry -dependants, picked out of inferior and foreign classes, form the company -of the Duke of Alcudia. Notwithstanding his lofty titles, unbounded -wealth, solid power, and dazzling magnificence, he is treated by the -first class with silent contempt and passive indifference. They read the -tale of his illustrious descent with the same sneering incredulity, as -the patents and decrees which enumerate the services he has done the -state. Few instances, perhaps, are upon record, of a more steady, -persevering contempt of an object in actual power, stamped with every -ornament royal favour can devise to give it credit, value, and currency. - -A thousand interesting reflections arising from this subject crowded my -mind as I rode home through the stately and now deserted alleys of -Aranjuez. The weather was growing chill, and the withered leaves began -to rustle. I was glad to take refuge by a blazing fire. Money, which -procures almost everything, had not failed to seduce the best salads and -apples from the royal gardens, admirable butter and good game; so I -feasted royally, though I dare say I should have done more so, in the -most extensive sense of the word, could some supernatural power or -Frenchified revolution have procured me the royal cook. His Majesty, I -am assured, by those I am far from suspecting of flattery, has real -talents for this most useful profession. - -The comfortable listlessness which had crept over me was too pleasant to -be shaken off, and I remained snug by my fireside the whole evening. - -THE END. - -LONDON: PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -headach and indisposition=> headache and indisposition {pg v1 185} - -so wan and singugular=> so wan and singular {pg v1 201} - -into some inchanted cave=> into some enchanted cave {pg v1 231} - -suprising variety of other plants=> surprising variety of other plants -{pg v1 351} - -The shubberies and garden=> The shrubberies and garden {pg v2 182} - -ton at present in this court=> tone at present in this court {pg v2 240} - -statu quo=> status quo {pg v2 243} - -Nuestra Senora=> Nuestra Seora {pg v2 286} - - * * * * * - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] This crucifix was made of the bronze which had formed the statue of -the terrible Duke of Alva, swept in its first form from the citadel -where it was proudly stationed, in a moment of popular fury. - -[2] The History of John Bull explains this ridiculous appellation. - -[3] Hills in the neighbourhood of Canton. - -[4] Apuleius Met: Lib. 5. - - Vehementer iterum ac spius beatos illos qui - Super gemmas et monilia calcant! - - -[5] Schnberg, beautiful mountain. - -[6] Ariosto Orlando Furioso.--_Canto 7, stanza 32._ - -[7] A nephew of Bertoni, the celebrated composer. - -[8] This excellent and highly cultivated woman died at Naples in August -1782. Had she lived to a later period her example and influence might -probably have gone great lengths towards arresting that tide of -corruption and profligacy which swept off this ill-fated court to -Sicily, and threatened its total destruction. - -[9] Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i. p. 439. - -[10] The Piscina mirabilis. - -[11] See Letter VII. - -[12] See Miss Williams's poems. - -[13] Since Marquis of Abrantes. - -[14] Writers of travels are sadly given to exaggeration. The author of -the Tableau du Lisbonne writes, "Il est dix heures, une foule de P. de -Ch. s'avance," &c. From such an account one would suppose the whole line -of houses in motion. No such thing. At intervals, to be sure, some -accidents of this sort, more or less, slily occur; but by no means in so -general and evident a manner. - -[15] These affecting tones seem to have made a lasting impression indeed -upon the heart of a young man, one of the principal clerks in the -Secretary of State's office; he was all admiration, all ardour, his -divinity all indifference. After a long period of unavailing courtship, -the poor lover, driven to absolute despair, made a donation of all he -was worth in the world to the object of his adoration, and threw himself -into the Tagus. Providentially he was fished out and brought home, pale -and almost inanimate. Such a spectacle, accompanied by so vivid a proof -of unlimited passion, had its effect. The lady relented, they were -united, and are as happy at this day, I believe, as the recollection of -so narrow an escape, and its cause, can make them. - -[16] An old English housekeeper. - -[17] For no light specimen of these atrocities, see Southey's Letters -from Spain and Portugal. - -[18] Don Joa da Valperra. - -[19] At the time I wrote this, half Lisbon believed in the individuality -of the holy crows, and the other half prudently concealed their -scepticism. - -[20] Don Jos, elder brother of the late king, John VI. - -[21] Dryden. - -[22] The royal chapel of the Ajuda, though somewhat fallen from the -unequalled splendour it boasted during the sing-song days of the late -king, Don Joseph, still displayed some of the finest specimens of vocal -manufacture which Italy could furnish. It possessed, at the same time, -Carlo Reina, Ferracuti, Totti, Fedelino, Ripa, Gelati, Venanzio, -Biagino, and Marini--all these _virtuosi_, with names ending in vowels, -were either _contraltos_ of the softest note, or _sopranos_ of the -highest squeakery. - -[23] Now Marquis of Tancos. - -[24] About the period of the present king's accession, several ladies of -this description had bounced into the peerage; but as they did not walk -at the coronation, somebody observed, it was odd enough that the -peeresses best accustomed to a free use of their limbs, declined -stirring a step upon this occasion. Horace Walpole mentions this bon mot -in some of his letters; I forget to whom he attributes it. - -[25] The personage in question paid dearly for having listened to evil -counsellors and exciting the suspicions of the church. In about a -twelvemonth after this conversation, the small pox, not attended to so -skilfully as it might have been, was suffered to carry him off, and -reduced his imperious widow to a mere cipher in the politics of a court -she had begun very successfully to agitate. To this period the cruel -distress of the queen's mind may be traced. The conflict between -maternal tenderness and what she thought political duty, may be supposed -with much greater probability to have produced her fatal derangement, -than all the scruples respecting the Aveiro and Tavoura confiscations -which the fanatical, interested priest, who succeeded my excellent -friend, excited. - -[26] A well-known wily diplomatist, afterwards ambassador at -Constantinople. - -[27] He resided afterwards at Paris in a diplomatic character, and is -supposed to have been implicated in some of the least amiable events of -the revolution. A mysterious passage in the first volume of Soulavie's -Memoirs is said to refer to him. He was particularly intimate with -citizen Egalit. - -[28] A nephew of the famous Angelica, and no indifferent painter -himself. - -[29] I have seen a beautiful portrait, engraved by Selma, of this image, -and dedicated in due form to its first lady of the dressing-room, -Marchioness of Cogolhudo, Duchess of San Estvan, &c. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Italy; with sketches of Spain and -Portugal, by William Beckford - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - -***** This file should be named 41150-8.txt or 41150-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41150/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal - -Author: William Beckford - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41150] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - - - - - - -Transcriber’s note: This etext, which includes the two volumes, attempts -to replicate the printed book as closely as possible. Obvious errors in -spelling and punctuation have been corrected. A list follows the etext. -The archaic spelling of words used by the author (chesnuts, befel, -visiters, cotemporary, woful, etc.) has not been corrected or modernized -by the etext transcriber. Footnotes have been moved to the end of the -text body. - - - - -ITALY; - -WITH SKETCHES OF - -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF “VATHEK.” - -THIRD EDITION. - -IN TWO VOLUMES. - -VOL. I. - -LONDON: -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, -Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. -1835. - - - - -ADVERTISEMENT. - - -Some justly admired Authors having condescended to glean a few stray -thoughts from these Letters, which have remained dormant a great many -years; I have been at length emboldened to lay them before the public. -Perhaps, as they happen to contain passages which persons of -acknowledged taste have honoured with their notice, they may possibly be -less unworthy of emerging from the shade into daylight than I imagined. - -Most of these Letters were written in the bloom and heyday of youthful -spirits and youthful confidence, at a period when the old order of -things existed with all its picturesque pomps and absurdities; when -Venice enjoyed her piombi and submarine dungeons; France her bastile; -the Peninsula her holy Inquisition. To look back upon what is beginning -to appear almost a fabulous era in the eyes of the modern children of -light, is not unamusing or uninstructive; for, still better to -appreciate the present, we should be led not unfrequently to recall the -intellectual muzziness of the past. - -But happily these pages are not crowded with such records: they are -chiefly filled with delineations of landscape and those effects of -natural phenomena which it is not in the power of revolutions or -constitutions to alter or destroy. - -A few moments snatched from the contemplation of political crimes, -bloodshed, and treachery, are a few moments gained to all lovers of -innocent illusion. Nor need the statesman or the scholar despise the -occasional relaxation of light reading. When Jupiter and the great -deities are represented by Homer as retiring from scenes of havoc and -carnage to visit the blameless and quiet Ethiopians, who were the -farthest removed of all nations, the Lord knows whither, at the very -extremities of the ocean,--would they have given ear to manifestos or -protocols? No, they would much rather have listened to the Tales of -Mother Goose. - -London, June 12th, 1834. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE FIRST VOLUME. - - -THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY. - -LETTER I. - -Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet -and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The -Place de Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, -contrasted with the tumult and uproar of London. Page 3 - - -LETTER II. - -Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur -Van Lencren’s collection.--The Canon Knyff’s house and -gallery of paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic -felicity.--Revisit the cathedral.--Grand service in honour of -Saint John the Baptist.--Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist’s -astonishing flashes of execution.--Evening service in the -cathedral.--Magical effect of the music of Jomelli.--Blighted -avenues.--Slow travelling.--Enter the United Provinces.--Level -scenery.--Chinese prospects.--Reach Meerdyke.--Arrival at the Hague. 14 - - -LETTER III. - -The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.--Temptation -of St. Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by -Berghem and Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable -productions of the Indies.--Enamelled flasks of oriental -essences.--Vision of the wardrobe of Hecuba.--Disenchantment.--Cabinet -of natural history.--A day dream.--A delicious morsel.--Dinner -at Sir Joseph Yorke’s.--Two honourable boobies.--The Great -Wood.--Parterres of the Greffier Fagel.--Air poisoned by the -sluggish canals.--Fishy locality of Dutch banquetting -rooms.--Derivation of the inhabitants of Holland.--Origin -and use of enormous galligaskins.--Escape from damp alleys -and lazy waters. 24 - - -LETTER IV. - -Leave the Hague.--Leyden.--Wood near Haerlem.--Waddling -fishermen.--Enter the town.--The great fair.--Riot -and uproar.--Confusion of tongues.--Mine hostess. 32 - - -LETTER V. - -Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht--Country-houses and -gardens.--Neat enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies -and Lapdogs.--Arrival at Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The -woods.--Shops.--Celestial love.--Musical -Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht. 35 - - -LETTER VI. - -Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy -saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal -depredators.--Arrival at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three -Wise Sovereigns.--Peregrinations of their beatified bones.--Road -to Bonn.--Delights of Catholicism.--Azure mountains.--Visionary -palaces. 39 - - -LETTER VII. - -Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn -to Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A -winding valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A -supposed Apparition.--A little sequestered Paradise. 47 - - -LETTER VIII. - -Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A -Storm.--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village -of Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited -plains on its margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the -Town.--Pomposities of the Town House. 53 - - -LETTER IX. - -Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand Fair at -Munich.--The Elector’s country palace.--Court Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden -and tea-room.--Hoydening -festivities there.--The Palace and Chapel.--Gorgeous riches -of the latter.--St. Peter’s thumb.--The Elector’s collection -of pictures.--The Churches.--Hubbub and confusion -of the Fair.--Wild tract of country.--Village of Wolfrathshausen.--Perpetual -forests.--A Tempest.--A night -at a cottage. 63 - - -LETTER X. - -Mittenwald.--Mountain chapels.--Saint Anna’s young -and fair worshippers.--Road to Inspruck.--Maximilian’s -tomb.--Vast range of prospects.--A mountain torrent.--Schönberg. 73 - - -LETTER XI. - -Steinach.--Its torrent and gloomy strait.--Achievements -of Industry.--A sleepy Region.--Beautiful country round -Brixen. 84 - - -ITALY. - -LETTER I. - -Bolsano.--Indications of approaching Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance -of the Peasantry.--A forest Lake.--Arrive -at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the Venetian -State.--Gorgeous Flies.--Fortress of Covalo.--Leave the -country of crags and precipices and enter the territory -of the Bassanese.--Groves of olives and vines.--Classic appearance -of Bassano.--Happy groups.--Pachierotti, the -celebrated singer.--Anecdote of him. 89 - - -LETTER II. - -Villa of Mosolente.--The route to Venice.--First view -of that city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning -scene on the grand canal.--Church of Santa -Maria della Salute.--Interesting group of stately buildings.--Convent -of St. Giorgio Maggiore.--The Redentore--Island -of the Carthusians. 97 - - -LETTER III. - -Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals -formerly celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The -Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossal -Statues.--Giants’ Stairs.--Fit of enthusiasm.--Evening-scene -in the great Square.--Venetian -intrigue.--Confusion of languages.--Madame de Rosenberg.--Character -of the Venetians. 111 - - -LETTER IV. - -Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary -shore.--Scene of the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.--Return -to the Place of St. Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles -for anonymous accusations.--The Council of Ten.--Terrible -punishments of its victims.--Statue of Neptune.--Fatal -Waters.--Bridge of Sighs.--The Fondamenti Nuovi.--Conservatory -of the Mendicanti.--An Oratorio.--Profound -attention of the Audience. 123 - - -LETTER V. - -M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings -of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian’s -master-piece in the church of San Giovanni -e Paolo.--The distant Euganean hills. 132 - - -LETTER VI. - -Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous -city of Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music -on the inhabitants of the Islands.--Solitary fields infested -by serpents.--Remains of ancient sculpture.--Antique and -fantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Torcello.--San Lorenzo’s -chair.--Dine in a Convent.--The Nuns.--Oratorio -of Sisera.--Remarks on the music.--Singing of the Marchetti.--A -female orchestra. 137 - - -LETTER VII. - -Coast of Fusina.--The Brenta.--A Village of Palaces.--Fiesso.--Exquisite -singing of the Galuzzi.--Marietta -Cornaro.--Scenes of enchantment and fascination. 145 - - -LETTER VIII. - -Reveries.--Walls of Padua.--Confused Pile dedicated to -Saint Anthony.--Devotion at his Shrine.--Penitential -Worshippers.--Magnificent Altar.--Sculpture of Sansovino.--Colossal -Chamber like Noah’s Ark. 149 - - -LETTER IX. - -Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous -attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini’s music.--Another -excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean -hills.--Newly discovered ruins.--High Mass in the great -Church of Saint Anthony.--A thunder-storm.--Palladio’s -Theatre at Vicenza.--Verona.--An aërial chamber.--Striking -prospect from it.--The amphitheatre.--Its interior.--Leave -Verona.--Country between that town and -Mantua.--German soldiers.--Remains of the palace of the -Gonzagas.--Paintings of Julio Romano.--A ruined garden.--Subterranean -apartments. 153 - - -LETTER X. - -Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge -of the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected -with those mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to -Bologna.--Magnificent Convent of Madonna del Monte.--Natural -and political commotions in Bologna.--Proceed towards -the mountains.--Dreary prospects.--The scenery -improves.--Herds of goats.--A run with them.--Return -to the carriage.--Wretched hamlet.--Miserable repast. 166 - - -LETTER XI. - -A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant -view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the -Gallery.--Relics of ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A -Medusa’s head by Leonardo da Vinci.--Curious picture -by Polemberg.--The Venus de Medicis.--Exquisitely -sculptured figure of Morpheus.--Vast Cathedral.--Garden -of Boboli.--Views from different parts of it.--Its resemblance -to an antique Roman garden. 173 - - -LETTER XII. - -Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He -catches cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is -in commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate with -the Singer on his imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill -scenery.--Princely Castle and Gardens of the Garzoni -Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of Ilex.--Endless -bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese -Mansi.--Return to Lucca. 186 - - -LETTER XIII. - -Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The -Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed -to Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of -the Fanale. 198 - - -LETTER XIV. - -The Mole at Leghorn.--Coast scattered over with Watch-towers.--Branches -of rare coral unexpectedly acquired. 200 - - -LETTER XV. - -Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures -by Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt -shown by the Austrians to the memory of the House of -Medici.--Evening visit to the Garden of Boboli.--The -Opera.--Miserable Singing.--A Neapolitan Duchess. 203 - - -LETTER XVI. - -Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend -one of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from -its brow.--Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of -a Princess.--The christening.--Another evening visit to -the woods of Boboli. 209 - - -LETTER XVII. - -Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of -Pine.--Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception -at the Convent.--Wild Glens where the Hermit -Gualbertus had his Cell.--Conversation with the holy -Fathers.--Legendary Tales.--The consecrated Cleft.--The -Romitorio.--Extensive View of the Val d’Arno.--Return -to Florence. 214 - - -LETTER XVIII. - -Cathedral at Sienna.--A vaulted Chamber.--Leave Sienna.--Mountains -round Radicofani.--Hunting Palace of the -Grand Dukes.--A grim fraternity of Cats.--Dreary Apartment. 224 - - -LETTER XIX. - -Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the -Papal territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of -the Lake of Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte -Fiascone.--Inhabited Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations -of Rome. 228 - - -LETTER XX. - -Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the -spacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient -splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherd -huts.--Wretched policy of the Papal Government.--Distant -view of Rome.--Sensations on entering the City.--The -Pope returning from Vespers.--St. Peter’s Colonnade.--Interior -of the Church.--Reveries.--A visionary -scheme.--The Pantheon. 230 - - -LETTER XXI. - -Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical -associations.--The -Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain -Groves.--Rock of Circe.--The Appian Way.--Arrive -at Mola di Gaeta.--Beautiful prospect.--A Deluge.--Enter -Naples by night, during a fearful Storm.--Clear -Morning.--View from my window.--Courtly Mob at the -Palace.--The Presence Chamber.--The King and his Courtiers.--Party -at the House of Sir W. H.--Grand Illumination -at the Theatre of St. Carlo.--Marchesi. 240 - - -LETTER XXII. - -View of the coast of Posilipo.--Virgil’s tomb.--Superstition -of the Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.--Aërial -situation.--A grand scene. 253 - - -LETTER XXIII. - -A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross -the bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous -reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The -Dead Lake.--Wild scene.--Beautiful meadow.--Uncouth -rocks.--An unfathomable gulph.--Sadness induced -by the wild appearance of the place.--Conversation -with a recluse.--Her fearful narration.--Melancholy -evening. 258 - - -LETTER XXIV. - -The Tyrol Mountains.--Intense cold.--Delight on beholding -human habitations. 280 - - -SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. - - -LETTER I. - -First day of summer.--A dismal plain.--Gloomy entrance -to Cologne.--Labyrinth of hideous edifices.--Hotel of Der -Heilige Geist. 285 - - -LETTER II. - -Enter the Tyrol.--Picturesque scenery.--Village of Nasseriet.--World -of boughs.--Forest huts.--Floral abundance. 288 - - -LETTER III. - -Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore -of Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its -deserted appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. 290 - - -LETTER IV. - -Excursion to Mirabello.--Beauty of the road thither.--Madame -de R.’s wild-looking niece.--A comfortable -Monk’s nest. 294 - - -LETTER V. - -Rome.--Strole to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.--A -grand Rinfresco.--The Egyptian Lionesses.--Illuminations. 297 - - -LETTER VI. - -The Negroni Garden.--Its solitary and antique appearance.--Stately -Porticos of the Lateran.--Dreary Scene. 299 - - -LETTER VII. - -Naples.--Portici.--The King’s Pagliaro and Garden.--Description -of that pleasant spot. 302 - - -GRANDE CHARTREUSE. - -LETTER I. - -Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the -Village of Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance -of the Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--Dark -Woods and Caverns.--Crosses.--Inscriptions. 307 - - -LETTER II. - -Thick forest of beech-trees.--Fearful glimpses of the torrent.--Throne -of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of -the Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched -aisle.--Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.--The -Secretary and Procurator.--Conversation with them.--A -walk amongst the cloisters and galleries.--Pictures of different -Convents of the order.--Grand Hall adorned with -historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life. 314 - - -LETTER III. - -Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the -Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The -great Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to -St. Bruno.--Retire to my cell.--Strange writings of St. -Bruno.--Sketch of his Life.--Appalling occurrence.--Vision -of the Bishop of Grenoble.--First institution of the Carthusian -order.--Death of St. Bruno.--His translation. 324 - - -LETTER IV. - -Mystic discourse.--A mountain ramble.--A benevolent -Hermit.--Red light in the northern sky.--Lose my way in -the solitary hills.--Approach of night. 335 - - -LETTER V. - -Pastoral scenery of Valombré.--Ascent of the highest -Peak in the Desert.--Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.--Farewell -benediction of the Fathers. 342 - - -SALEVE. - -LETTER I. - -Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.--Pas d’Echelle.--Moneti.--Bird’s-eye -prospects.--Alpine flowers.--Extensive -view from the summit of Saleve.--Youthful enthusiasm.--Sad -realities. 357 - - -LETTER II. - -Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity -of the night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of -Genevese Morality. 366 - - - - -THE LOW COUNTRIES - -AND - -GERMANY. - - -LETTER I. - - Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet and - Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The Place de - Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, contrasted with the tumult - and uproar of London. - - -Ostend, 21st June, 1780. - -We had a rough passage, and arrived at this imperial haven in a piteous -condition. Notwithstanding its renown and importance, it is but a scurvy -place--preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when cast -upwards--swaggering Dutch skippers and mongrel smugglers are the -principal objects they meet with below; and then the whole atmosphere is -impregnated with the fumes of tobacco, burnt peat, and garlick. I -should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances of this seaport -confined only to two senses; but, alas! the apartment above my head -proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds which proceed from it are so -loud and frequent, that a person might think himself in limbo, without -any extravagance. - -In hope of some relief, I went to the Capuchin church, a large solemn -building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again was I -disappointed. There happened to be an exposition of the holy wafer with -ten thousand candles; and whilst half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued -and flourished away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks -gabbled before the altars, a whole posse of devotees, in long white -hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either side. - -This papal piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so -I sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the -evening--for the black huddle of clouds, which the late storms had -accumulated, were all melted away--tempted me to the ramparts. There, at -least, thought I to myself, I may range undisturbed, and talk with my -old friends the breezes, and address my discourse to the waves, and be -as romantic and fanciful as I please; but I had scarcely begun a poetic -apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies -and abbés and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such a -hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to observe the bright tints -of the western horizon, or enjoy those ideas of classic antiquity which -a calm sunset never fails to bring before my imagination. - -Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should -have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of -dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very -outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugarplums and -nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was restored, -and about eleven o’clock I fell into a slumber. My dreams anticipated -the classic scenes of Italy, the proposed term of my excursion. - -Next morning I arose refreshed with these agreeable impressions. No -ideas, but such as Nemi and Albano suggested, haunted me whilst -travelling to Ghent. I neither heard the coarse dialect which was -talking around me, nor noticed the formal avenues and marshy country -which we passed. When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes upon -the dull prospect, and was transported immediately to those Grecian -solitudes which Theocritus so enchantingly describes. - -To one so far gone in the poetic lore of ancient days, Ghent is not the -most likely place to recall his attention; and I know nothing more about -it, than that it is a large, ill-paved, plethoric, pompous-looking city, -with a decent proportion of convents and chapels, monuments, brazen -gates, and gilded marbles. In the great church were several pictures by -Rubens, so striking, so masterly, as to hold me broad awake; though, I -must own, there are moments when I could contentedly fall asleep in a -Flemish cathedral, for the mere chance of beholding in vision the temple -of Olympian Jupiter. - -But I think I hear, at this moment, some grave and respectable personage -chiding my enthusiasm--“Really, sir, you had better stay at home, and -dream in your great chair, than give yourself the trouble of going post -through Europe, in search of places where to fall asleep. If Flanders -and Holland are to be dreamed over at this rate, you had better take -ship at once, and doze all the way to Italy.” Upon my word, I should not -have much objection to that scheme; and, if some enchanter would but -transport me in an instant to the summit of Ætna, anybody might slop -through the Low Countries that pleased. - -Being, however, so far advanced, there is no retracting; and I am -resolved to journey along with Quiet and Content for my companions. -These two comfortable deities have, I believe, taken Flanders under -their especial protection; every step one advances discovering some new -proof of their influence. The neatness of the houses, and the universal -cleanliness of the villages, show plainly that their inhabitants live in -ease and good humour. All is still and peaceful in these fertile -lowlands: the eye meets nothing but round unmeaning faces at every door, -and harmless stupidity smiling at every window. The beasts, as placid as -their masters, graze on without any disturbance; and I scarcely -recollect to have heard one grunting swine or snarling mastiff during -my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy dunghill, not at -all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and there sows and porkers -bask in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of death and -bacon arrives. - -But it is high time to lead you towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, -more ample fields of grain, more flourishing willows! A boundless plain -lies before this city, dotted with cows, and speckled with flowers; a -level whence its spires and quaint roofs are seen to advantage! The pale -colours of the sky, and a few gleams of watery sunshine, gave a true -Flemish cast to the scenery, and everything appeared so consistent, that -I had not a shadow of pretence to think myself asleep. - -After crossing a broad expanse of river, edged on one side by beds of -osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets -preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses to -our inn. Its situation in the “Place de Meir,” a vast open space -surrounded by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has -something striking and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, -sculptured by Cortels of Malines,[1] adds to its splendour; and the -tops of some tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, add -greatly to the effect of the perspective. - -It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new -objects discovered by this dubious, visionary light, I went immediately -a rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations: there were no groups -of squabbling children or talkative old women. The whole town seemed -retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and turning -about, from street to street, and from alley to alley, without meeting a -single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two women in long cloaks -and mantles glided by at a distance; but their dress was so shroud-like, -and their whole appearance so ghostly, that I should have been afraid to -accost them. As night approached, the ranges of buildings grew more and -more dim, and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. The -canals, which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise in -perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me to observe -on the still waters the reflection of the structures above them. Except -two or three tapers glimmering through the casements, no one -circumstance indicated human existence. I might, without being thought -very romantic, have imagined myself in the city of petrified people -which Arabian fabulists are so fond of describing. Were any one to ask -my advice upon the subject of retirement, I should tell him--By all -means repair to Antwerp. No village amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon -Mount Lebanon, is less disturbed: you may pass your days in this great -city without being the least conscious of its sixty thousand -inhabitants, unless you visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be -heard a few devout whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a -little chiming; but, walk about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, -and be assured your ears will be free from all molestation. - -You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around me -whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty of my -situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, I was in the -midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if by some magic -influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable indeed for -streets and edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a profound -repose. What a pity that we cannot borrow some small share of this -soporific disposition! It would temper that restless spirit which throws -us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, let us not be too -precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time may arrive when, like -Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of forgetfulness; when a fine verdure -may carpet our Exchange, and passengers traverse the Strand without any -danger of being smothered in crowds or crushed by carriages. - -Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted -with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I -insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was -aware, under its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an object -more solemn or more imposing than this edifice at the hour I first -beheld it. Dark shades hindered my examining the lower galleries; their -elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of building -met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred and sixty-six feet -in the air, received an additional importance from the gloom which -prevailed below. The sky being perfectly clear, several stars twinkled -through the mosaic of the pinnacles, and increased the charm of their -effect. - -Whilst I was indulging my reveries, a ponderous bell struck ten, and -such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole edifice, -notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. I need not say, -no mob obstructed my passage. I ran through a succession of streets, -free and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs of -Wiltshire. The voices of my servants conversing before the hotel were -the only sounds which the great “Place de Meir” echoed. - -This characteristic stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back -upon those scenes of outcry and horror which filled London but a week or -two ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and to the environs -of the capital, but haunted our streets at mid-day. Here, I could -wander over an entire city; stray by the port, and venture through the -most obscure alleys, without a single apprehension; without beholding a -sky red and portentous with the light of houses on fire, or hearing the -confusion of shouts and groans mingled with the reports of artillery. I -can assure you, I think myself very fortunate to have escaped the -possibility of another such week of desolation, and to be peaceably -lulled at Antwerp. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur Van - Lencren’s collection.--The Canon Knyff’s house and gallery of - paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic felicity.--Revisit the - cathedral.--Grand service in honour of St. John the - Baptist.--Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist’s astonishing flashes - of execution.--Evening service in the cathedral.--Magical effect of - the music of Jomelli.--Blighted avenues.--Slow travelling.--Enter - the United Provinces.--Level scenery.--Chinese prospects.--Reach - Meerdyke.--Arrival at the Hague. - - -Antwerp, 23rd June, 1780. - -After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all the cabinets -of pictures in Antwerp. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren’s, who -possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, -with the rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heaven forbid I -should enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count the -dew-drops upon the most spangled of Van Huysum’s flower-pieces, or the -pimples on their possessor’s countenance; a very good sort of man, -indeed; but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered. - -My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought me into -the court-yard of the Canon Knyff’s habitation; a snug abode, well -furnished with ample fauteuils and orthodox couches. After viewing the -rooms on the first floor, we mounted an easy staircase, and entered an -ante-chamber, which they who delight in the imitations of art rather -than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the portraits of -tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but it must be confessed, -that amongst these uninteresting performances are dispersed a few -striking Berghems and agreeable Polembergs. In the gallery adjoining, -two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit observation; and a large Teniers, -representing the Hermit St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious set of -imps and leering devilesses, is well calculated to display the whimsical -buffoonery of a Dutch imagination. - -I was enjoying this strange medley, when the canon made his appearance; -and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to Flemish ideas. In -my humble opinion, his reverence looked a little muddled or so; and, to -be sure, the description I afterwards heard of his style of living -favours not a little my surmises. This worthy dignitary, what with his -private fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a spanking -revenue, which he contrives to get rid of in the joys of the table and -the encouragement of the pencil. - -His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of so -comfortable an income; the canon being upon a very social footing with -them all. At four o’clock in the afternoon, a select party attend him in -his coach to an ale-house about a league from the city; where a table, -well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, waits their arrival. -After enjoying this rural fare, the same equipage conducts them back -again, by all accounts, much faster than they came; which may well be -conceived, as the coachman is one of the brightest wits of the -entertainment. - -My compliments, alas! were not much appreciated, you may suppose, by -this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemberg, and -offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; but, as I -could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyff to expand, I made one of my best -bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic felicity. - -In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament of -which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, and so -faithfully imitated that I dare say no Ass could see it unmoved. At -length, it was lawful to return home; and as I positively refused -visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord of -Rucker, and played myself quite out of the Netherlands. - -It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took advantage -of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of starlings had -just pitched on one of the pinnacles of the tower, whose faint chirpings -were the only sounds that broke the evening stillness. Not a human form -appeared at any of the windows around; no footsteps were audible in the -opening before the grand entrance; and during the half hour I spent in -walking to and fro, one solitary Franciscan was the only creature that -accosted me. From him I learned that a grand service was to be performed -next day in honour of St. John the Baptist, and the best music in -Flanders would be called forth on the occasion, so I determined to stay -one day longer at Antwerp. - -Having taken this resolution, I availed myself of a special invitation -from Mynheer Van den Bosch, the first organist of the place, and sat -next to him in his lofty perch during the celebration of high mass. The -service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and examined the innumerable -chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer Van den Bosch thundered and -lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops. - -When the first flashes of execution had a little subsided, I took an -opportunity of surveying the celebrated Descent from the Cross. This has -ever been esteemed the master-piece of Rubens, which, large as it is, -they pretend here that Old Lewis Baboon[2] offered to cover with gold. A -swingeing St. Christopher, fording a brook with a child on his -shoulders, cannot fail of attracting attention. This colossal personage -is painted on the folding-doors which defend the grand effort of art -just mentioned from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has selected a very -proper subject to display the gigantic boldness of his pencil. - -After I had most dutifully surveyed all his productions in this church, -I walked half over Antwerp in quest of St. John’s relics, which were -moving about in procession. If my eyes were not much regaled by the -saint’s magnificence, my ears were greatly affected in the evening by -the music which sang forth his praises. The cathedral was crowded with -devotees, and perfumed with incense. A motet, in the lofty style of -Jomelli, performed with taste and feeling, transported me to Italian -climates; and I grieved, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think -that I had still so many tramontane regions to pass before I could in -effect reach that classic country. Finding it was in vain to expect -preternatural interposition, and perceiving no conscious angel or -Loretto-vehicle waiting in some dark consecrated corner to bear me away, -I humbly returned to my hotel. - -Monday, June 26th.--We were again upon the pavé, rattling and jumbling -along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. The plagues of Egypt -have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, by the -appearance of the oak trees: not a leaf have the insects spared. After -having had the displeasure of seeing no other objects for several hours -but these blasted rows, the scene changed to vast tracts of level -country, buried in sand and smothered with heath; the particular -character of which I had but too good an opportunity of intimately -knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us without being once -out of breath. - -Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, and -had all their glory of canals, treck-schuyts, and windmills, before us. -The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and the lively -green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with the ideas I had -formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was not diminished upon -viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled meadows, with -stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable barges gliding -busily along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; it improved each -moment, as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, at sun-set, not one -single cloud obscured the horizon. Several storks were parading by the -water-side, amongst flags and osiers; and, as far as the eye could -reach, large herds of beautifully spotted cattle were enjoying the -plenty of their pastures. I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or -Ning Po, till we reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the -current recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, therefore, -as I left my carriage and entered my inn, the clouds of tobacco which -filled every one of its apartments dispersed my Chinese imaginations, -and reduced me in an instant to Holland. - -Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell you that -its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe would be -nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass over the -village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent of pottery, -and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague. - -As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy the -shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling, and proceeded to the -village on the sea coast, which terminates the perspective. Almost every -cottage door being open to catch the air, I had an opportunity of -looking into their neat apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, all -glisten with cleanliness; the country people were drinking tea, after -the fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and contrivances. - -I left them to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast azure -expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I remained there a -full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of different sizes were in -sight, the last sunbeam purpling their sails, and casting a path of -innumerable brilliants athwart the waves. What would I not have given to -follow this shining track! It might have conducted me straight to those -fortunate western climates, those happy isles which you are so fond of -painting, and I of dreaming about. But, unluckily, this passage was the -only one my neighbours the Dutch were ignorant of. It is true they have -islands rich in spices, and blessed with the sun’s particular attention, -but which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no means -fortunate. - -Abandoning therefore all hopes of this adventurous voyage, I returned -towards the Hague, and looked into a country-house of the late Count -Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets by no means resembling, one should -conjecture, the gardens of the Hesperides. But, considering that the -whole group of trees, terraces, and verdure were in a manner created out -of hills of sand, the place may claim some portion of merit. The walks -and alleys have all the stiffness and formality which our ancestors -admired; but the intermediate spaces, being dotted with clumps and -sprinkled with flowers, are imagined in Holland to be in the English -style. An Englishman ought certainly to behold it with partial eyes, -since every possible attempt has been made to twist it into the taste of -his country. - -I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count Bentinck’s -tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized -over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. All the -way home, I reflected upon the unyielding perseverance of the Dutch, who -raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the bosom of the -waters. I had, almost at the same moment, a whimsical proof of the -thrifty turn of this people; for just entering the town I met an -unwieldy fellow--not ill clad--airing his carcase in a one-dog chair. -The poor animal puffed and panted, Mynheer smoked, and gaped around him -with the most blessed indifference. - - - - -LETTER III. - - The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.--Temptation of St. - Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by Berghem and - Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable productions of - the Indies.--Enamelled flasks of oriental essences.--Vision of the - wardrobe of Hecuba.--Disenchantment.--Cabinet of natural - history.--A day dream.--A delicious morsel.--Dinner at Sir Joseph - Yorke’s.--Two honourable boobies.--The Great Wood.--Parterres of - the Greffier Fagel.--Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.--Fishy - locality of Dutch banquetting rooms.--Derivation of the inhabitants - of Holland.--Origin and use of enormous galligaskins.--Escape from - damp alleys and lazy waters. - - -30th June, 1780. - -I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings -and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst the pictures which -amused me the most is a temptation of the holy hermit St. Anthony, by -Hell-fire Breughel, who has shown himself right worthy of the title; for -a more diabolical variety of imps never entered the human imagination. -Breughel has made his saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies -and creeping things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, would -have lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of steel and -fiery turrets glare on every side, whence issue a band of junior devils. -These seem highly entertained with pinking poor Anthony, and whispering, -I warrant ye, filthy tales in his ear. Nothing can be more rueful than -the patient’s countenance; more forlorn than his beard; more piteous -than his eye, forming a strong contrast to the pert winks and insidious -glances of his persecutors; some of whom, I need not mention, are -evidently of the female kind. - -But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad company -so long; and had I a moment to spare, you should be introduced to a -better set in this gallery, where some of the most exquisite Berghems -and Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for hours. I do not think -you would look much at the Polembergs; there are but two, and one of -them is very far from capital; in short, I am in a great hurry; so -pardon me, Carlo Cignani! if I do not do justice to your merit; and -forgive me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute of -admiration. - -Mynheer Van Something was as eager to precipitate my step as I was to -get out of the damps and perplexities of Sorgvliet yesterday evening; -so, mounting a creaking staircase, he led me to a suite of garretlike -apartments; which, considering the meanness of their exterior, I was -rather surprised to find stored with some of the most valuable -productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, models of -Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, and Japan -caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. The most pleasing -of all its baubles in my estimation was a large coffer of most elaborate -workmanship, containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, enough to -perfume a zennana. If disagreeable fumes, as I mentioned before, -dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils have doubtless the power of -raising them; for, whilst I scented their fragrancy, I could have -persuaded myself, I was in the wardrobe of Hecuba,-- - - “Where treasured odours breathed a costly scent.” - -I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of -matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began to rise upon -my sight, when a sweltering Dutch porpoise approaching to make me a low -bow, his complaisance proved full as notorious as Satan’s, when, -according to Catholic legends, he took leave of Luther, that -disputatious heresiarch. No spell can resist a fumigation of this -nature; away fled palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, &c. I looked up, and -lo! I was in a garret. As poetry is but too often connected with this -lofty situation, you will not wonder much at my flight. Being a little -recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the cabinets -of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober senses. A grave -hippopotamus contributed a good deal to their re-establishment. - -The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me another -dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, on the -summits of Haynang and Nan-Hoa;[3] but the jargon which was gabbling all -around me prevented the excursion, and I summoned a decent share of -attention for that ample chamber which has been appropriated to bottled -snakes and pickled fœtuses. - -After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no very -new or singular objects can be selected in this. One of the rarest -articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human head, most -dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have been bestowed by -amateurs on this performance. A German professor could hardly believe it -artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set his teeth in this -delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. My faith was less -hazardously established; and I moved off, under the conviction that art -had never produced anything more horridly natural. - -It was one o’clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; and another -hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions of stuffed -birds and marine productions. At length my departure was allowable; and -I went to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke’s, with all nations and languages. -Amongst the company were two honourable boobies and their governor, all -from Ireland. The youngest, after plying me with a succession of -innocent questions, wished to be informed where I proposed spending the -carnival. “At Tunis,” was my answer. The questioner, not in the least -surprised, then asked who was to sing there? To which I replied, -“Farinelli.” - -This settled the business to our mutual satisfaction; so after coffee I -strayed to the Great Wood, which, considering that it almost touches the -town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. Not a branch being -ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches retain their natural -luxuriance. In some places their straight boles rise sixty feet without -a bough; in others, they are bent fantastically over the alleys, which -turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. I followed them with -eagerness and curiosity; sometimes deviating from my path amongst tufts -of fern and herbage. - -In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and -windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst contemplating -the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers and grasses -below. Hares and rabbits scudded by me while I sat; and the birds were -chirping their evening song. Their preservation does credit to the -police of the country, which is so exact and well regulated as to suffer -no outrage within the precincts of this extensive wood, the depth and -thickness of which might otherwise seem calculated to favour half the -sins of a capital. - -Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst -the beeches till late in the evening; then taking the nearest path, I -suffered myself, though not without regret, to be conducted out of this -fresh sylvan scene to the dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier -Fagel. Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one -side; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the -other. These sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United -Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour -to conquer their filthiness. - -But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to -mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their -odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be inclined to -this supposition by the numerous banquetting-rooms and pleasure-houses -which hang directly above their surface, and seem calculated on purpose -to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their -country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), one -should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their -pavilions in such situations; but, after all, I am not greatly -surprised at the fishiness of their site, since very slight authority -would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water, and the -ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oysterishness of -eye and flabbiness of complexion, are almost proofs sufficient of this -aquatic descent: and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins -as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a -flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphinlike -termination? - -Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the -borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks to -a vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. There was no -temptation to puzzle myself in such a labyrinth; so taking advantage of -the lateness of the hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises of -returning at the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless -scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser and less -curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the Hague. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Leave the Hague.--Leyden.--Wood near Haerlem.--Waddling - fishermen.--Enter the town.--The great fair.--Riot and - uproar.--Confusion of tongues.--Mine hostess. - - -Haerlem, July 1st, 1780. - -The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled -along a shady road for about an hour, when down sunk the carriage into a -sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into a -profound repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I awoke, -we were rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable in -honour of this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung and -said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, and -smoked in its gardens. Let us get out of it as fast as we can, and -breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem. - -Here we arrived just as day declined: hay was making in the fields, and -perfumed the country far and wide with its reviving fragrance. I -promised myself a sentimental saunter in the groves, took up Gesner, and -began to have pretty pastoral ideas as I walked forward; but instead of -nymphs dispersed over the meadows, I met a gang of waddling fishermen. -Letting fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherdesses, I jumped -into the carriage, and was driven off to the town. Every avenue to it -swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed to announce that -something extraordinary was going forward. Upon inquiry I found it was -the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much farther, our -carriage was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters of all -denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of little -illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys and -looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we reached our inn, -and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last we were -accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has been -dedicated to you. - -You will not be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since I tell -you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. At this -very moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all regular -proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, and -show-boxes under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, -outrageous Italians, frisking minstrels; _tambours de basque_ at every -corner; myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing -German couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed, -nothing to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while provoking -their appetite; squeaking chamber-maids in the galleries above, and mine -hostess below, half inclined to receive the golden solicitations of -certain beauties for admittance, but positively refusing them the moment -some creditable personage appears; eleven o’clock strikes; half the -lights in the fair are extinguished; scruples grow faint; and mammon -gains the victory. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht.--Country-houses and gardens.--Neat - enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies and Lapdogs.--Arrival at - Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The woods.--Shops.--Celestial - love.--Musical Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht. - - -Utrecht, 2d July, 1780. - -Well, thank Heaven! Amsterdam is behind us; how I got thither signifies -not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was -hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the odours, exhaling -from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale the nose of a -Hottentot. - -Under these pungent circumstances we entered the great city. The -Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither as -fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, -magnificently coved, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That -despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined -with the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt -statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite -astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no -other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and -flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid’s work-bag. -Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the -neatness and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of -flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of -consequential personages were solacing themselves after the heat of the -day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable party dozing -over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an -avenue but swarmed with female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at -their sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities. - -But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, -and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my -attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Ziest, -in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation of -Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy -fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, -amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate -protection of their pious brethren. - -Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built round -with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and one ragged -goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, perhaps, for -the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in -solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished with -gew-gaws and trinkets said to be manufactured by the female part of the -society. Much cannot be boasted of their handy-works: I expressed a wish -to see some of these industrious fair ones; but, upon receiving no -answer, found this was a subject of which there was no discourse. - -Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance -of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued -very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught a -glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns as they -sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great -inclination to approach this busy group, but the roll of a brother’s eye -corrected me. - -Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated -buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my -expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall -esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so hasty a -narrative. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy - saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal depredators.--Arrival - at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three Wise Sovereigns.--Peregrinations - of their beatified bones.--Road to Bonn.--Delights of - Catholicism.--Azure mountains.--Visionary palaces. - - -We arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the mouldering -turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a candle and -lantern. An old woman at the gate asked our names (for not a single -soldier appeared); and after traversing a number of superannuated -streets without perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his -Paladins, we procured comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and -slept most unheroically sound, till it was time to set forward for -Dusseldorf. - -July 8th.--As we were driven out of the town, I caught a glimpse of a -grove, hemmed in by dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers were -sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan -greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like unhappy -souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away their -existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a party behind; -and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads and rumbling -pavements, crossed the Rhine and travelled on to Dusseldorf. - -Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers to -stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more indifferent -houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a living creature -moving about them; and at night a complete regiment of bugs “marked me -for their own.” Thus I lay, at once the seat of war and the conquest of -these detestable animals, till early in the morning (Sunday, July 9th), -when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, opened the ivory gates of -his empire, and freed his votary from the most unconscionable vermin -ever engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast asleep; and remained -quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till it was time to survey the -cabinet. - -This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains some -valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most boasted of -is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three enormous -representations of the last day, where an innumerable host of sinners -are exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of the devil’s -tail. The woes of several fat luxurious souls are rendered in the -highest gusto. Satan’s dispute with some brawny concubines, whom he is -lugging off in spite of all their resistance, cannot be too much admired -by those who approve this class of subjects, and think such strange -embroglios in the least calculated to raise a sublime or a religious -idea. - -For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to -contemplate a holy family by Camillo Procaccini, in another apartment. -The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure more graceful -than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an inspired -countenance or celestial features, it was here: but to attempt conveying -in words what the pencil alone can express, would be only reversing the -absurdity of many a master in the gallery who aims to represent those -ideas by the pencil which language alone is able to describe. Should -you admit this opinion, you will not be surprised at my passing such a -multitude of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you out of -the cabinet without deluging ten pages with criticisms in the style of -the ingenious Lady Miller. - -As I had spent so much time in the gallery, the day was too far advanced -to think of travelling to Cologne; I was therefore obliged to put myself -once more under the dominion of the most inveterate bugs in the -universe. This government, like many others, made but an indifferent use -of its power, and the subject suffering accordingly was extremely -rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to Cologne. - -July 10th.--Clouds of dust hindered my making any remarks on the -exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance be not more -beautiful from without than within, I defy the most courteous compiler -of geographical dictionaries to launch forth very warmly in its praise. -But of what avail are stately palaces, broad streets, or airy markets, -to a town which can boast of such a treasure as the bodies of those -three wise sovereigns who were star-led to Bethlehem? Is not this -circumstance enough to procure it every kind of respect? I really -believe so, from the pious and dignified contentment of its inhabitants. -They care not a hair of an ass’s ear whether their houses be gloomy and -ill-contrived, their pavements overgrown with weeds, and their shops -half choked up with filthiness, provided the carcasses of Gaspar, -Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved with proper decorum. Nothing, -to be sure, can be richer than the shrine which contains these precious -relics. I paid my devotions before it the moment I arrived; this step -was inevitable: had I omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have -cursed me for a Pagan. - -Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from their -native country? I thought them snug under some Arabian cupola ten feet -deep in spice; but who can tell what is to become of one a few ages -hence? Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco may be canonized some future -day in Lapland? I asked, of course, how in the name of miracles they -came hither? but found no story of a supernatural conveyance. It seems -that great collectress of relics, the holy Empress Helena, first routed -them out: then they were packed off to Rome. King Alaric, having no -grace, bundled them down to Milan; where they remained till it pleased -Heaven to inspire an ancient archbishop with the fervent wish of -depositing them at Cologne; there these skeletons were taken into the -most especial consideration, crowned with jewels and filigreed with -gold. Never were skulls more elegantly mounted; and I doubt whether -Odin’s buffet could exhibit so fine an assortment. The chapel containing -these beatified bones is placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. -Several golden lamps gleam along the polished marbles with which it is -adorned, and afford just light enough to read the following monkish -inscription:-- - - “CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM: - EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM.” - -After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations of -the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather -surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, but -covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. Many an -impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic -bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of saints and -evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed assembly (for -the shrine, they say, was formed under her auspices) surpasses my -comprehension. Perhaps you will say, it is no great matter; and give me -a hint to move out of the chapel, lest the three kings and their star -should lead me quite out of my way. Very well; I think I had better stop -in time, to tell you, without further excursion, that we set off after -dinner for Bonn. - -Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, and -scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all the -delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share of my -attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which bounded -our view, and in thought was already transported to their summits. Vast -and wild were the prospects I surveyed from my imaginary exaltation, and -innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Under their -capricious influence my fancy built castles and capitols in the clouds -with all the extravaganza of Piranesi. The magnificence and variety of -my aërial structures hindered my thinking the way long. I was walking -with a crowd of phantoms upon their terraces, when the carriage made a -halt. Immediately descending the innumerable flights of steps which -divide such lofty edifices from the lower world, I entered the inn at -Bonn, and was shown into an apartment which commands the chief front of -the Elector’s residence. You may guess how contemptible it appeared to -one just returned from palaces bedecked with all the pomp of visionary -splendour. In other respects I saw it at a very favourable moment, for -the twilight, shading the whole façade, concealed its plastered walls -and painted columns. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn to - Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A winding - valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A supposed - Apparition.--A little sequestered Paradise. - - -July 11, 1780. - -Let those who delight in picturesque country repair to the borders of -the Rhine, and follow the road from Bonn to Coblentz. In some places it -is suspended like a cornice above the waters; in others, it winds behind -lofty steeps and broken acclivities, shaded by woods and clothed with an -endless variety of plants and flowers. Several green paths lead amongst -this vegetation to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the -foundation of abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising -above the cliffs, impress passengers with ideas of their grandeur, that -might probably vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing to lose any -prejudice in their favour, I kept a respectful distance whenever I left -my carriage, and walked on the banks of the river. - -Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange -morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet in -length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great many -people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at their doors, -whilst their children played among the water-lilies that bloomed in -abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from one of these -aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains beyond, and added -not a little to their effect. - -Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an hour -contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy walnuts; -and should like extremely to build a moveable village, people it with my -friends, and so go floating about from island to island, and from one -woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you dislike such a party? I -am much deceived, or you would be the first to explore the shady -promontories beneath which we should be wafted along. - -But I do not think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to -take up our night’s lodging, much to your taste. It is a mean, dirty -assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with -wooden galleries, in the delectable taste of old St. Giles’s. Above, on -a rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable -for nothing except situation. I did not bestow many looks on this -structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to Mayence -conducted us. - -July 12.--Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast, irregular -range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst downs purpled -with thyme and bounded by forests. This sort of prospect extending for -several leagues, I walked on the turf, and inhaled with avidity the -fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till I came to a steep slope -overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs in blossom. A -cloudless sky and bright sunshine made me rather loth to move on; but -the charms of the landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward. - -I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, inclosed -by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the thickest -woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, reflected the -impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy that I was -determined to be better acquainted with it. For this purpose we -descended by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the best of our way -on the banks of the Lahn (for so is the river called) came suddenly upon -the town of Ems, famous in mineral story; where, finding very good -lodgings, we took up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds -and mountains. - -After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the moon -journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed over the -face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every mountain cast -its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights twinkled afar off -on the hills; they burnt in silence. All were asleep, except a female -figure in white, with glow-worms shining in her hair. She kept moving -disconsolately about; sometimes I heard her sigh; and if apparitions -sigh, this must have been an apparition. - -July 13.--The pure air of the morning invited me abroad at an early -hour. Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down the stream, and landed -on a sloping meadow, level with the waters, and newly mown. Heaps of hay -still lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on every side this -little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! I could encamp here -for months, and never be tired. Not a day would pass by without -discovering some untrodden pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might -remain among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. I would give you, -and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else should be -conscious even of its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, I rambled -about the meads, scarcely aware which way I was going; sometimes a -spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange fancies. -Between both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never have found -my boat again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting -fossils on the cliffs, directed me to it. - -When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive that I -had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a few wood -strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet received into -the realms of Ginnistan. - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A - Storm--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village of - Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited plains on its - margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the Town.--Pomposities of the Town - House. - - -Ems, July 14. - -I have just made a discovery, that this place is as full of idlers and -water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse Darmstadt can -desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its salubrious fountains. -I protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, so entirely was I taken -up with the rocks and meadows; and conceived no chance of meeting either -card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both however abound at Ems, -unconscious of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally -insensible to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring -barren crags and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, as -a clumsy lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously -observed to me; nor could they form the least conception of any pleasure -there was in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving -into woods and recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there -were neither card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no _jambon -de Mayence_ in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest -delights, to be met with in the commonest taverns. - -To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately -left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and -weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I -turned my back upon this polite assembly, when _Monsieur -l’Administrateur des bains_, a fine pompous fellow, who had been _maitre -d’hôtel_ in a great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint -me, I suppose, that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince -Orloff, “_avec sa crande maidresse, son shamperlan, et guelgues tames -donneur_:” moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself -after his laborious employments at the Court of St. Petersburgh, and -expected (_grace aux eaux_!) to return to the domains his august -sovereign had lately bestowed upon him, perfectly regenerated. - -Wishing Monsieur d’Orloff all possible success, I should have left the -company at a greater distance, had not a violent shower stopped my -career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing -heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a -gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close -foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the clouds -assumed a more formidable aspect; thunder rolled along the distant -cliffs, and torrents began to run down the steeps. At intervals a blue -flash of lightning discovered the agitated surface of the stream, and -two or three scared women rushing through the storm, and calling all the -saints in Paradise to their assistance. - -Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so -brilliantly on the folly of ascending mountains, bounced into the room, -and regaled my ears with a woeful narration of murders which had -happened the other day on the precise road I was to follow the next -morning. - -“Sir,” said he, “your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the left -you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the smallest -alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious -wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a -regiment; a little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest -land, the roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many -minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There lurk the most savage -banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince of Orange’s -proscription; and so desperate, that if they make an attack, you can -expect no mercy. Should you venture through this hazardous district -to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet a company of people who -have just left the town to search for the mangled bodies of their -relations; but, for Heaven’s sake, sir, if you value your life, do not -suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous regions, -however picturesque their appearance.” - -It was almost nine o’clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me -with terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not -under the most agreeable impressions. - -Early in the morning we set forward; and proceeding along the edge of -the precipices I had been forewarned of, journeyed through the forest -which had so recently been the scene of murders and depredations. At -length, after winding several hours amongst its dreary avenues, we -emerged into open daylight. A few minutes more brought us safe to the -village of Wiesbaden, where we slept in peace and tranquillity. - -July 16.--Our apprehensions being entirely dispersed, we rose much -refreshed; and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled -gaily over the plain in which Manheim is situated. The sun set before we -arrived there. - -Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and -fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared -conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity of -the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we could -hardly cross a street without hearing the sound of music. A scene of -such happiness and refinement formed a most agreeable contrast to the -dismalities we had left behind. All around was security and contentment -in their most engaging attire. - -July 20.--After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a green -moor, of vast extent, with insulated woods and villages; here and there -the Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon -its banks. The fields in the neighbourhood of the town were overspread -with cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks, which convey -them down the great river in twelve days to Vienna, and thence, through -Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish empire. - -You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than those which -gilded our horizon. For ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth -unlimited levels interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which -appeared a long series of mountains. Such were the very spots for -youthful games and exercises, open spaces for the race, and spreading -shades to skreen the spectators. - -Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery Savannahs -in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians -repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and -lead their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies -leave on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain -of future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and -dances upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of -these visionary plains rises the abode of Ateantsic, encircled by choirs -of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the sound of spears as they -ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite attendants, long -separated from them while on earth, are restored again in this ethereal -region, and skim freely over the vast level space; now, hailing one -group of beloved friends; and now, another. Mortals newly ushered by -death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see the -long-lost objects of their affection advancing to meet them, whilst -flights of familiar birds, the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once -more attend their progress, and the shades of their faithful dogs seem -coursing each other below. The whole region is filled with low murmurs -and tinkling sounds, which increase in melody as its new denizens -proceed, who, at length, unable to resist the thrilling music, spring -forward in ecstasies to join the eternal round. - -A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst my -eyes wandered over the plains, which imagination widened and extended in -proportion as the twilight prevailed, and so fully abandoned was I to -the illusion of the moment, that I did not for several minutes perceive -our arrival at Günzburg; whence we proceeded the next morning (July 21) -to Augsburg, and rambled about this renowned city till evening. The -colossal paintings on the walls of almost every considerable building -gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the score of novelty. - -Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we -found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of -Augustus; which way soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable -edifice, or marble basin into which several groups of sculptured -river-gods pour a profusion of waters. These stately fountains and -bronze statues, the extraordinary size and loftiness of the buildings, -the towers rising in perspective, and the Doric portal of the -town-house, answered in some measure the idea Montfaucon gives us of -the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter -attempts a representation of Troy or Babylon, and displays in his -back-ground those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, -or some such city, may easily be traced. Frequently a corner of Antwerp -discovers itself; and sometimes, above a Corinthian portico, rises a -Gothic spire: just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue of -Augustus, under which I remained till the concierge came, who was to -open the gates of the town-house and show me its magnificent hall. - -I wished for you exceedingly when ascending a flight of a hundred steps; -I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and crowned -with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five more -entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii leaning -over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each above -thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole -city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars, -cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly tinged -with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with emblematical -paintings and innumerable canopies and pendents of carved work, casts a -very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should not be surprised at a -burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity in such a room. - -I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended -the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if on the point of giving -audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a high festival, and -half the inhabitants of Augsburg were gathered together in the opening -before their hall; the greatest numbers, especially the women, still -exhibiting the very dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed -upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with as -much silent respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of -Israel. When I got home, an execrable sourcroutish supper was served up -to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal style, and soon convinced myself -I was no longer Solomon. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand fair at Munich.--The - Elector’s country palace.--Court - Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden and tea-room.--Hoydening - festivities there.--The Palace and Chapel.--Gorgeous riches of the - latter.--St. Peter’s thumb.--The Elector’s collection of - pictures.--The Churches.--Hubbub and confusion of the Fair.--Wild - tract of country.--Village of Wolfrathshausen.--Perpetual - forests.--A Tempest.--A night at a cottage. - - -July 22. - -Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! for preserving such extensive woods of -fir in their dominions as shade over the chief part of the road from -Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned city, I cannot boast of the -scenery changing to advantage. Instead of flourishing woods and verdure, -we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified by fields of withering -barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally across them; now and then a -stagnant pool, and sometimes a dunghill, by way of regale. However, the -wild rocks of the Tyrol terminate the view, and to them imagination may -fly, and ramble amidst springs and lilies of her own creation. I speak -from authority, having had the delight of anticipating an evening in -this romantic style. - -Tuesday next is the grand fair at Munich, with horse-races and -junketings: a piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the -moment we entered the town, good-natured creatures from all quarters -advised us to get out of it; since traders and harlequins had filled -every corner of the place, and there was not a lodging to be procured. -The inns, to be sure, were hives of industrious animals sorting their -merchandise, and preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite of -difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment. - -July 23.--We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, the Elector’s -country palace, the bosquets, jets-d’eaux, and parterres of which are -the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a glitter -with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every pore. Beds of -poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and other flame-coloured flowers, -border the edge of the walks, which extend till the perspective appears -to meet and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in party-coloured raiment. -The queen of Golconda’s gardens in a French opera are scarcely more -gaudy and artificial. Unluckily too, the evening was fine, and the sun -so powerful that we were half roasted before we could cross the great -avenue and enter the thickets, which barely conceal a very splendid -hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. Trevor, and a party of -fashionable Bavarians. - -Amongst the ladies was Madame la Comtesse, I forget who, a production of -the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de Baumgarten, who has -the honour of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses -stepping into a car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed and -explored alley after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, having -viewed Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and -Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a variety -of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly did their best -(for many were set agoing on purpose) I cannot say I greatly admired -them. - -The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as -swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked exactly like -the fine people one sees represented on Dresden porcelain. Thus we kept -walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew up and -conveyed us to Mr. Trevor’s. - -Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden -and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till -morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the waltz, another amuse -themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That despatched, out -they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity and liveliness I -little expected to have found in Bavaria. After turning round and round, -with a rapidity that is quite astounding to an English dancer, the music -changes to a slower movement, and then follows a succession of zig-zag -minuets, performed by old and young, straight and crooked, noble and -plebeian, all at once, from one end of the room to the other. Tallow -candles snuffing and stinking, dishes changing at the risk of showering -down upon you their savoury contents, heads scratching, and all sorts of -performances going forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and -bassoons, snorting, grunting, and whining with peculiar emphasis; now -fast, now slow, just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the -ceremonial of this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and -privilege is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, -the rooms are open, and Monday is generally far advanced before they are -deserted. If good humour and coarse merriment are all that people -desire, here they are to be found in perfection. - -July 24.--Custom condemned us to visit the palace, which glares with -looking-glass, gilding, and furbelowed flounces of cut velvet, most -sumptuously fringed and spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer -than anything Crœsus ever possessed, let them say what they will. Not -a corner but shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded -with jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and the richest -gems under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius[4] thinks such -supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the honour, and had much -rather have trodden the turf of the mountains. Mammon would never have -taken his eyes off the pavement; mine soon left the contemplation of it -and fixed on St. Peter’s thumb, enshrined with a degree of elegance, and -adorned by some malapert enthusiast with several of the most delicate -antique cameos I ever beheld; the subjects, Ledas and sleeping Venuses, -are a little too pagan, one should think, for an apostle’s finger. - -From this precious repository we were conducted through the public -garden to a large hall, where part of the Elector’s collection is piled -up, till a gallery can be finished for its reception. It was matter of -great favour to view, in this state, the pieces that compose it, a very -imperfect one too, since some of the best were under operation. But I -would not upon any account have missed the sight of Rubens’s Massacre of -the Innocents. Such expressive horrors were never yet transferred to -canvass. Moloch himself might have gazed at them with pleasure. - -After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much -tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the -continual repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy upon -you! However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, and -to-morrow we shall begin to mount the cliffs of the Tyrol; but, do not -be afraid of any long-winded epistles from their summits: I shall be too -well employed in ascending them. - -July 25.--The noise of the people thronging to the fair did not allow me -to slumber very long in the morning. When I got up, every street was -crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and driving their -bargains in all the guttural hoarseness of the Bavarian dialect. Vast -quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops as we passed to -the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats set half the grandams and -infants in the place cackling with felicity. - -Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, we -entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely -park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where we stopped -to give our horses some refreshment, and were pestered with swarms of -flies, most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast upon -sugared tarts and honied gingerbread. - -The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to a -narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under which -lies scattered the village of Wolfrathshausen, consisting of several -remarkably large cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries -projecting from them. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of these -complicated edifices, nor more solid than their construction; many of -them looked as if they had braved the torrents which fell from the -mountains a century ago; and, if one may judge from the hoary appearance -of the inhabitants, here are patriarchs coeval with their mansions. -Orchards of cherry-trees cover the steeps above the village, which to -our certain knowledge produce most admirable fruit. - -Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into a -grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing we had yet beheld. -There seemed no end to these forests, except where little irregular -spots of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we gained an -eminence it was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated -with meadows and glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of -sweet-scented flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the mountain-ash, -glowing with scarlet berries: and beyond, rise hills, rocks and -mountains, piled upon one another, and fringed with fir to their topmost -acclivities. Perhaps the Norwegian forests alone, equal these in -grandeur and extent. Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey -such vast ideas. There, the woods climb only half way up their ascents, -which then are circumscribed by snows: here no boundaries are set to -their progress, and the mountains, from base to summit, display rich -unbroken masses of vegetation. - -As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with thunder, -obscured the horizon, whilst flashes of lightning startled our horses, -whose snorts and stampings resounded through the woods. The impending -tempests gave additional gloom to the firs, and we travelled several -miles almost in total darkness. One moment the clouds began to fleet, -and a faint gleam promised serener intervals, but the next was all -blackness and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon the -valley, and in a short time the torrents beginning to swell, raged with -such violence as to be forded with difficulty. Twilight drew on, just as -we had passed the most terrible; then ascending a mountain, whose pines -and birches rustled with the storm, we saw a little lake below. A deep -azure haze veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours concealed the -cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities hung a few -transparent clouds; the rays of a struggling sunset streamed on the -surface of the waters, tingeing the brow of a green promontory with -tender pink. - -I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several -minutes, till this apparition faded away. Looking round, I shuddered at -a craggy mountain, clothed with forests and almost perpendicular, that -was absolutely to be surmounted before we could arrive at Walchen-see. -No house, not even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, -and penetrate these awful groves. At length, after some perils but no -adventure, we saw lights gleam upon the shore of the Walchen lake, which -served to direct us to a cottage, where we passed the night, and were -soon lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Mittenwald.--Mountain chapels.--Saint Anna’s young and fair - worshippers.--Road to Inspruck.--Maximilian’s tomb.--Vast range of - prospects.--A mountain torrent.--Schönberg. - - -July 26. - -The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was spangling the -surface of the lake, which spreads itself between steeps of wood, -crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of -contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of the -lake, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the water, -tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and tranquil. -Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every outlet; and, no -village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress an idea of more -than European solitude. - -From the shore of Walchen-see, our road led us straight through arching -groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of a -rock covered with daphnes of various species, and worn by the course of -torrents into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of -shattered cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and -rapid streams hurrying between their intermingled trunks and branches. -As yet, no hut appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human -existence. - -After a few hours’ journey through the wilderness, we began to discover -a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence it arose, -composed of planks, and reared on the very brink of a precipice. Piles -of cloven fir were dispersed before the entrance, on a little spot of -verdure browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with hoary whiskers, -his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or three beautiful children -with hair neatly braided, played around him; and a young woman dressed -in a short robe and Polish-looking bonnet, peeped out of a wicket -window. - -I was so much struck with the appearance of this sequestered family, -that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to their cottage and sought -some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst the -children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black-eyed girl -succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled -bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. I -reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast on the -turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable grace. The only -thing I wanted was language to express my gratitude; and it was this -deficiency which made me quit them so soon. The old man seemed visibly -concerned at my departure; and his children followed me a long way down -the rocks, talking in a dialect which passes all understanding, and -waving their hands to bid me adieu. - -I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we -entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every -age and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing branches; -others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. Even at noonday, I -thought we should never have found our way out. - -At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives opening -on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by hills, divided into -irregular inclosures, where many herds were grazing. A rivulet flows -along the pastures beneath; and after winding through the village of -Walgau, loses itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs and precipices -which rise above the cultivated slopes and frame in this happy pastoral -region. All the plain was in sunshine, the sky blue, the heights -illuminated, except one rugged peak with spires of rock, shaped not -unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, and wrapped, like that sacred -mount, in clouds and darkness. At the base of this tremendous mass lies -the hamlet of Mittenwald, surrounded by thickets and banks of verdure, -and watered by frequent springs, whose sight and murmurs were so -reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not think of -leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenwald the whole evening. - -Our inn had long airy galleries, with pleasant balconies fronting the -mountain; in one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the rills, and -cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes above. The -clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half visible, before we -ended our repast, every moment discovering some inaccessible cliff or -summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun, with pale -golden colours. These appearances filled me with such delight and with -such a train of romantic associations, that I left the table and ran to -an open field beyond the huts and gardens to gaze in solitude and catch -the vision before it dissolved away. You, if any human being is able, -may conceive true ideas of the glowing vapours sailing over the pointed -rocks, and brightening them in their passage with amber light. - -When all was faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look around -me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover covered its -surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs and the -sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, broken into a -variety of glens and precipices, open a course for several clear -rivulets, which, after gurgling amidst loose stones and fragments, fall -down the steeps, and are concealed and quieted in the herbage of the -vale. - -A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; -and on the brow of the hills above, appears a series of eleven little -chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads to them, -on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful peasants, all -of the name of Anna (for it was St. Anna’s day) going to pay their -devotion, severally, at these neat white fanes. There were faces that -Guercino would not have disdained copying, with braids of hair the -softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some had wreathed it simply -with flowers, others with rolls of a thin linen (manufactured in the -neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of elegance one should not -have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol. - -Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the -steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed -each to her fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, and -you may well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the -landscape, increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of their -adorations (for at intervals they sighed and beat their white bosoms -with energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at me as I -passed by. Do not be surprised, then, if I became a convert to idolatry -in so amiable a form, and worshipped Saint Anna on the score of her -namesakes. - -When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a cascade -in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps of a wide -fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its entrance, which was -marked by a shed encompassed with mossy fragments and almost concealed -by bushes of rhododendron in full red bloom--amongst these I struggled, -till reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink of the foaming -waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues a stream which, -dashing impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, and -sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big drops hung on every spray, -and glittered on the leaves partially gilt by the rays of the declining -sun, whose mellow hues softened the rugged summits, and diffused a -repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, which inclined me to -imagine it the extremity of the earth--the portal of some other region -of existence,--some happy world beyond the dark groves of pine, the -caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its source! Impressed -with this romantic idea, I hung eagerly over the gulph, and fancied I -could distinguish a voice bubbling up with the waters; then looked into -the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate its gloom--but all was dark -and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening from my reverie, I felt the -damps of the water chill my forehead; and ran shivering out of the vale -to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that reigned in the meads I had -wandered across before, tempted me to remain a good while longer -collecting dianthi freaked with beautifully varied colours, and a -species of white thyme scented like myrrh. Whilst I was thus employed, a -confused murmur struck my ear, and, on turning towards a cliff, backed -by the woods from whence the sound seemed to proceed, forth issued a -herd of goats, hundreds after hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then -followed two shepherd boys, gamboling together as they drove their -creatures along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, hunting a -stray heifer which brought up the rear. I followed them with my eyes -till lost in the windings of the valley, and heard the tinkling of their -bells die gradually away. Now the last blush of crimson left the summit -of _Sinai_, inferior mountains being long since cast in deep blue shade. -The village was already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments -I followed its example. - -July 27.--We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through the wildest scenes -of wood and mountain, where the rocks were now beginning to assume a -loftier and more majestic appearance, and to glisten with snows. I had -proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, visiting the castle of -Embras, and examining Count Eysenberg’s cabinet, enriched with the -rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, and a complete collection of -the moths and flies peculiar to the Tyrol; but, upon my arrival, the -azure of the skies and the brightness of the sunshine inspired me with -an irresistible wish of hastening to Italy. I was now too near the -object of my journey, to delay possession any longer than absolutely -necessary, so, casting a transient look on Maximilian’s tomb, and the -bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts, and worthies, solemnly ranged in the -church of the Franciscans, set off immediately. - -We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, and -were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with fields -of corn, and variegated with wood and vineyards, encircling lawns of -the finest verdure, scattered over with white houses. Upon ascending the -mount, and beholding a vast range of prospects of a similar character, I -almost repented my impatience, and looked down with regret upon the -cupolas and steeples we were leaving behind. But the rapid succession of -lovely and romantic scenes soon effaced the former from my memory. - -Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of rocks) -by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, opportunities -of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond forests; green -spots in the midst of wood, high above on the mountains, and cottages -perched on the edge of promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, -amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent -Inn, which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual murmur. -Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed over high bridges; -sometimes mounted halfway up the cliffs, till its roar and agitation -became, through distance, inconsiderable. - -After a long ascent we reached Schönberg,[5] a village well worthy of -its appellation: and then, twilight drawing over us, began to descend. -We could now but faintly discover the opposite mountains, veined with -silver rills, when we came once more to the banks of the Inn. This -turbulent stream accompanied us all the way to Steinach, and broke by -its continual roar the stillness of the night, half spent, before we -retired to rest. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Steinach.--Its torrent and gloomy strait.--Achievements of - Industry.--A sleepy Region.--Beautiful country round Brixen. - - -July 28. - -I rose early to enjoy the fragrance of the vegetation, bathed in a -shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, saw nothing but -crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores of the stream, still dark -with the shade of the mountains. The small opening in which Steinach is -situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, scarce leaving room for the -road and the torrent, which does not understand being thwarted, and will -force its way, let the pines grow ever so thick, or the rocks be ever so -formidable. - -Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry has -contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water by -means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the rocks with soil. By -this means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of the -huts have gardens filled with poppies, which seem to thrive in this -parched situation. - - “Urit enim lini campum seges, urit avenæ, - Urunt Lethæo perfusa papavera somno.” - -The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations -which discovered themselves. For what specific purpose these gaudy -flowers meet with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to -enquire; the mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even to -Germans. Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love -a conjecture, Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians to -a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these endless mountains. -Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, always denote the skirts of his -soporific reign, and I do not remember a region better calculated for -undisturbed repose than the narrow clefts and gullies which run up -amongst these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, and -moistened by rills and showers, whose continual trickling inspire a -drowsiness not easily to be resisted. Add to these circumstances the -waving of the pines, and the hum of bees seeking their food in the -crevices, and you will have as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser -and Ariosto have placed the nodding deity. - -But we may as well keep our eyes open for the present, and look at the -beautiful country round Brixen, where I arrived in the cool of the -evening, and breathed the freshness of a garden immediately beneath my -window. The thrushes, which nest amongst its shades, saluted me the -moment I awoke next morning. - - - - -ITALY. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Bolsano.--Indications of approaching - Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance of the Peasantry.--A forest - Lake.--Arrive at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the - Venetian State.--Gorgeous Flies.--Fortress of Covalo.--Leave the - country of crags and precipices and enter the territory of the - Bassanese.--Groves of olives and vines.--Classic appearance of - Bassano.--Happy groups.--Pachierotti, the celebrated - singer.--Anecdote of him. - - -July 29, 1780. - -We proceeded over fertile mountains to Bolsano. It was here first that I -noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick set with melons and Indian -corn; fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over garden walls, clustered -with fruit. In the evening we perceived several further indications of -approaching Italy; and after sun-set the Adige, rolling its full tide -between precipices, which looked terrific in the dusk. Myriads of -fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on the bank. I traced the course -of these exotic insects by their blue light, now rising to the summits -of the trees, now sinking to the ground, and associating with vulgar -glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to remark their progress, since -we travelled all night; such being my impatience to reach the promised -land! - -Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept a few -hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in some -measure abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting -before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in -their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of -the same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, -filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses itself in -shady creeks, amongst hills entirely covered with shrubs and verdure. - -The shores present one continual thicket, interspersed with knots of -larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A cornice of -rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend to the very -brink, and dip their boughs in the water. - -It was six o’clock when I caught the sight of this unsuspected lake, -and the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining a very rapid -ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several airy peaks -rising above tufted foliage. I quitted the contemplation of them with -regret, and, in a few hours, arrived at Borgo di Volsugano; the scene of -the lake still present before the eye of my fancy. - -July 31st.--My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, not very distant, -which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I thought an age, at -least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. The road was never -formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles and rolling -stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and jolting. I should -not have spared my execrations, had it not traversed a picturesque -valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed with fragments of rock, -precipitated, long since, from the surrounding eminences, blooming with -cyclamens. - -I clambered up several of these crags, - - Fra gli odoriferi ginepri,[6] - -to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them deliciously -scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many of which I -here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and expanding -their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers I beheld, nor -their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my heart to destroy -their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch them for ever -from the realms of light and flowers. Had I been less compassionate, I -should have gained credit with that respectable corps, the torturers of -butterflies; and might, perhaps, have enriched their cabinets with some -unknown captives. However, I left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in -free possession of their native rights; and having changed horses at -Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired Italy. - -The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by the fortress of Covalo, in -possession of the empress queen, and only fit, one should think, to be -inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold but by -the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who live in -dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines for -powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach being a -little too aërial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, tinging their -entrance, completed the romance of the prospect, which I never shall -forget. - -For two or three leagues there was little variation in the scenery; -cliffs, nearly perpendicular on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and -thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines and -gardens. Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries, made its -appearance, and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges -of white buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which numbers of -women and children were employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, -the stream gradually widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more -frequent and cottages thicker strown. - -About five in the evening we left the country of crags and precipices, -of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile territory of the -Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, and vines clustering -the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in every garden, and vases -of citron and orange before almost every door. The softness and -transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in happier climates; -and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through my veins, upon -beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure stretched out before -me. A few hazy vapours, I can hardly call them clouds, rested upon the -extremities of the landscape; and, through their medium, the sun cast an -oblique and dewy ray. Peasants were returning home, singing as they -went, and calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were -milking goats before the wickets of the cottage, and preparing their -country fare. - -I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and -cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of -former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself of -Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, neither -soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their concealment, to -question and molest a weary traveller, for such is the happiness of the -Venetian state, at least of the terra firma provinces, that it does not -contain, I believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, and the -maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, you -know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire. - -Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of the town in -the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a level -green, where people walk and take ices by moonlight. On the right, the -Franciscan church, and convent, half hid in the religious gloom of pine -and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and towers rising from -the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows, in front; -where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite to the -base of the mountains. - -Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with company, sitting in -circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with fruit and sherbets, -or lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free and -happy that I longed to be acquainted with them; and, thanks to a -warm-hearted old Venetian, (the Senator Querini,) was introduced to a -group of the principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise -to meet the next evening at the villa of La Contessa Roberti, about a -league from Bassano, and then to return together and sing to the praise -of Pachierotti, their idol, as well as mine. - -You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of the -same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what -effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed a -few years ago, and threw his audience into such raptures, that it was -some time before they recovered. One in particular, a lady of -distinction, fainted away the instant she caught the pathetic accents of -his voice, and was near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa, who -sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole affair. “Egli -ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a Padua,” was her expression. I assured -her we were not without idolatry in England, upon his account; but that -in this, as well as in other articles of belief, there were many -abominable heretics. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Villa of Mosolente--The route to Venice.--First view of that - city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning scene on - the grand canal.--Church of Santa Maria della Salute.--Interesting - group of stately buildings.--Convent of St. Giorgio Maggiore.--The - Redentore.--Island of the Carthusians. - - -August 1st, 1780. - -The whole morning not a soul stirred who could avoid it. Those who were -so active and lively the night before, were now stretched languidly upon -their couches. Being to the full as idly disposed, I sat down and wrote -some of this dreaming epistle; then feasted upon figs and melons; then -got under the shade of the cypress, and slumbered till evening, only -waking to dine, and take some ice. - -The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente (for -so is the villa called) placed on a verdant hill encircled by others as -lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected by porticos; -just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. A vast flight of -steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and her friends -received me with a grace and politeness that can never want a place in -my memory. We rambled over all the apartments of this agreeable edifice, -characterised by airiness and simplicity. The pavement encrusted with a -composition as cool and polished as marble; the windows, doors, and -balconies adorned with silver iron work, commanding scenes of meads and -woodlands that extend to the shores of the Adriatic; slender towers and -cypresses rising above the levels; and the hazy mountains beyond Padua, -diversifying the expanse, form altogether a landscape which the elegant -imagination of Horizonti never exceeded. - -I gazed on this delightful view till it faded in the dusk; then -returning to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and heard Signora -Roberti sing the very air which had excited such transport at Padua. As -soon as she had ended, a band of various instruments stationed in the -open street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted me at -any other time; but now, I wished them a thousand leagues away, so -pleasingly melancholy an impression did the air I had been listening to -leave on my mind. - -At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting out -for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I hope some -future day to accept them. - - -August 2. - -Our route to Venice lay winding about the variegated plains I had -surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we came in two -hours and a half to Mestre, between grand villas and gardens peopled -with statues. Embarking our baggage at the last-mentioned place, we -stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was very agreeable after the -jolts of a chaise. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, terminated -by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy Virgin, peeping -out of a thicket, whence spire up two tall cypresses. Its bells tingled -as we passed along and dropped some paolis into a net tied at the end of -a pole stretched out to us for that purpose. - -As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an expanse -of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of Venice rising from -its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, St. Michele, St. Giorgio -in Alga, and several other islands, detached from the grand cluster, -which I hailed as old acquaintances; innumerable prints and drawings -having long since made their shapes familiar. Still gliding forward, we -every moment distinguished some new church or palace in the city, -suffused with the rays of the setting sun, and reflected with all their -glow of colouring from the surface of the waters. - -The air was calm; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing upon -the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel in the -island of San Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, as we rowed -by and coasted the walls of its garden overhung with fig-trees and -surmounted by spreading pines. The convent discovers itself through -their branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the -sea, except where the garden intervenes. - -We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began to -interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing and -repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its stir and -bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much address through -a crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, and rowed smoothly -by the side of a broad pavement, covered with people in all dresses and -of all nations. - -Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of arcades -and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the Leon Bianco, -which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the grand canal, -commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I have no terms to -describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and -cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenic, that adorn these edifices, of -which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render -all verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand scene of -perspective appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals the -other. - -The rooms of our hotel are spacious and cheerful; a lofty hall, or -rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a very good style, perfectly -clean, floored with a marbled stucco, divides the house, and admits a -refreshing current of air. Several windows near the ceiling look into -this vast apartment, which serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered -perfectly luminous by a glazed arcade, thrown open to catch the -breezes. Through it I passed to a balcony which impends over the canal, -and is twined round with plants forming a green festoon springing from -two large vases of orange trees placed at each end. Here I established -myself to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would permit, -the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas. - -As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings -before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas moving -rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed and played -upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when the sounds of -music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew louder and louder, -an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued from the Rialto, and -stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, which stilled every -clamour and suspended all conversation in the galleries and porticos; -till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. The gondoliers catching -the air, imitated its cadences, and were answered by others at a -distance, whose voices, echoed by the arch of the bridge, acquired a -plaintive and interesting tone. I retired to rest, full of the sound; -and long after I was asleep, the melody seemed to vibrate in my ear. - - -August 3. - -It was not five o’clock before I was aroused by a loud din of voices and -splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out, I beheld the grand -canal so entirely covered with fruits and vegetables, on rafts and in -barges, that I could scarcely distinguish a wave. Loads of grapes, -peaches and melons arrived, and disappeared in an instant, for every -vessel was in motion; and the crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to -boat, formed a very lively picture. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a -good many whose dress and carriage announced something above the common -rank; and upon enquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just come from -their casinos, and met to refresh themselves with fruit, before they -retired to sleep for the day. - -Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades of -the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing me -abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and grapes, -and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal to the marble steps -of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the Senate in performance of a vow -to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in 1630. The -great bronze portal opened whilst I was standing on the steps which lead -to it, and discovered the interior of the dome, where I expatiated in -solitude; no mortal appearing except an old priest who trimmed the lamps -and muttered a prayer before the high altar, still wrapt in shadows. The -sun-beams began to strike against the windows of the cupola, just as I -left the church and was wafted across the waves to the spacious platform -in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, one of the most celebrated works of -Palladio. - -When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined the -graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just -proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my -umbrella on the margin of the sea, and viewed at my leisure the vast -range of palaces, of porticos, of towers, opening on every side and -extending out of sight. The Doge’s palace and the tall columns at the -entrance of the place of St. Mark, form, together with the arcades of -the public library, the lofty Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal -church, one of the most striking groups of buildings that art can boast -of. To behold at one glance these stately fabrics, so illustrious in the -records of former ages, before which, in the flourishing times of the -republic, so many valiant chiefs and princes have landed, loaded with -oriental spoils, was a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I -thought of the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza -of St. Mark, along which he marched in solemn procession, to cast -himself at the feet of Alexander the Third, and pay a tardy homage to -St. Peter’s successor. Here were no longer those splendid fleets that -attended his progress; one solitary galeass was all I beheld, anchored -opposite the palace of the Doge and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, -whose sable hues contrasted strongly with its vermilion oars and shining -ornaments. A party-coloured multitude was continually shifting from one -side of the piazza to the other; whilst senators and magistrates in long -black robes were already arriving to fill their respective offices. - -I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where nothing -stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions, and, whilst I -remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant buzz of the town. -Fortunately some length of waves rolled between me and its tumults; so -that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, undisturbed by officiousness -or curiosity. When the sun became too powerful, I entered the nave. - -After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the lightness -of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the pavement of -white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a mirror the -columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door that admitted -me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, surrounded by a -cloister supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully proportioned. A flight -of stairs opens into the court, adorned with balustrades and pedestals, -sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. This brought me to the -refectory, where the chef-d’œuvre of Paul Veronese, representing the -marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the first object that presented itself. -I never beheld so gorgeous a group of wedding-garments before; there is -every variety of fold and plait that can possibly be imagined. The -attitudes and countenances are more uniform, and the guests appear a -very genteel, decent sort of people, well used to the mode of their -times and accustomed to miracles. - -Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range of -tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were -coming to devour with energy, if one might judge from their appearance. -These sons of penitence and mortification possess one of the most -spacious islands of the whole cluster, a princely habitation, with -gardens and open porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what -adds not a little to the charms of their abode, is the facility of -making excursions from it, whenever they have a mind. - -The republic, jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives at these -amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and churchmen, -prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the eyes of the -people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere flesh and blood, -and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest of Italy been of the -same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo’s maxims, some of its -fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie uncultivated, and its -ancient spirit might have revived. However, I can scarcely think the -moment far distant, when it will assert its natural prerogatives, and -look back upon the tiara, with all its host of scaring phantoms, as the -offspring of a feverish dream. - -Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; -and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of -steps which lead to the Redentore, a structure so simple and elegant, -that I thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked about for -the statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful divinity. A huge -crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times present. - -The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of rueful -martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards of -capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers had -decorated the nave with orange and citron trees, placed between the -pilasters of the arcades; and on grand festivals, it seems, they turn -the whole church into a bower, strew the pavement with leaves, and -festoon the dome with flowers. - -I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. It was -mid-day, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where I might -dine in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off in an instant; -but, though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished to advance still -faster, and getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the waters, -soon left the Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into the plains -of shining sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, fleeting -before me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores of the distant -continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion of my boat, and to -fly with equal celerity. - -I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the -waters--the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their surface. -Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the Carthusian garden, -before I recollected where I was, or could look attentively around me. -Permission being obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting -aside with my hands the boughs of figs and pomegranates, got under an -ancient bay-tree on the summit of a little knoll, near which several -tall pines lift themselves up to the breezes. I listened to the -conversation they held, with a wind just flown from Greece, and charged, -as well as I could understand this airy language, with many -affectionate remembrances from their relations on Mount Ida. - -I reposed amidst fragrant leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it -pleased the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of fruit -and wine. Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand questions -about Lord George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was deeply -engaged with the winds, and a thousand agreeable associations excited by -my Grecian fancies, wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded -ignorance of the Italian language. This circumstance extricated me from -my embarrassment, and procured me a long interval of repose. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals formerly - celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The - Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossal - Statues.--Giants’ Stairs.--Fit of enthusiasm.--Evening-scene in the - great Square.--Venetian intrigue.--Confusion of languages.--Madame - de Rosenberg.--Character of the Venetians. - - -The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other -old story-tellers, and I dozed undisturbed till the people without, in -the boat, (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what was become of me -within,) began a sort of chorus in parts, full of such plaintive -modulation, that I still thought myself under the influence of a dream, -and, half in this world and half in the other, believed, like the heroes -of Fingal, that I had caught the music of the spirits of the hill. - -When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I moved -towards the shore whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay before me; no -gale ruffled the expanse; every breath had subsided, and I beheld the -sun go down in all its sacred calm. You have experienced the sensations -this moment inspires; imagine what they must have been in such a scene, -and accompanied with a melody so simple and pathetic. I stepped into my -boat, and now instead of encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, begged -them to abate their ardour, and row me lazily home. They complied, and -we were near an hour reaching the platform in front of the ducal palace, -thronged as usual with a variety of nations. I mixed a moment with the -crowd; then directed my steps to the great mosque, I ought to say the -church of St. Mark; but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and -semicircular arches, have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse this -appellation. I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of bronze -and gold that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one glance, -the whole extent of the piazza, with its towers and standards. A more -noble assemblage was never exhibited by architecture. I envied the good -fortune of Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a tournament -held in this princely opening. - -Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When Henry the -Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed through -Venice, and found the Senate waiting to receive him in their famous -square, which by means of an awning stretched from the balustrades of -opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling with -artificial stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. What -a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith of power and -luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to them, however, the Venetians -are indebted for the hint, since we read of the Coliseo and Pompey’s -theatre being sometimes covered with transparent canvas, to defend the -spectators from the heat or sudden rain, and to tint the scene with soft -agreeable colours. - -Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to enter -into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three -standards before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true -spirit of the antique, and covered with relievos, at once bold and -elegant. It is also to this celebrated architect we are indebted for the -stately façade of the _Procuratie nuove_, which forms one side of the -square, and presents an uninterrupted series of arcades and marble -columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this magnificent range appears -another line of palaces, whose architecture, though far removed from the -Grecian elegance of Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the -pomp of the view. - -There is something strange and singular in the Tower or Campanile, which -rises distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the -left as you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark’s. The design is -barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet in spite of -these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful building called the -Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during the convocation of -the Grand Council, decorates its base. Nothing can be more enriched, -more finished than this structure; which, though far from diminutive, is -in a manner lost at the foot of the Campanile. This enormous fabric -seems to promise a long duration, and will probably exhibit Saint Mark -and his Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear in great state towards -its summit, and have nothing superior, but an archangel perched on the -topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the skies. The dusk prevented my -remarking the various sculptures with which the Loggetta is crowded. - -Crossing the ample space between this graceful edifice and the ducal -palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the -principal court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible at -so late an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze richly sculptured diversify -the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps presents itself, by -which the senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, which lead -to the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues of Mars and Neptune -guard the entrance, and have given the appellation of _scala dei -giganti_ to the steps below, which I mounted not without respect; and, -leaning against the balustrades, formed like the rest of the building of -the rarest marbles, contemplated the tutelary divinities. - -My admiration was shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or officers -of police, who take their stands after sunset before the avenues of the -palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point of being closed. -So, hurrying down the steps, I left a million of delicate sculptures -unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, every entablature, is -encrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some other precious marble, -carved into as many grotesque wreaths of foliage as we admire in the -loggie of Raphael. The various portals, the strange projections; in -short, the striking irregularity of these stately piles, delighted me -beyond idea; and I was sorry to be forced to abandon them so soon, -especially as the twilight, which bats and owls love not better than I -do, enlarged every portico, lengthened every colonnade, and increased -the dimensions of the whole, just as imagination desired. This faculty -would have had full scope had I but remained an hour longer. The moon -would then have gleamed upon the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and -discovered the statues of ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of -their niches. - -Such an interesting combination of objects, such regal scenery, with the -reflection that many of their ornaments once contributed to the -decoration of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri thought -me distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about like an actor -in an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands to the consecrated -fanes and images around, expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, -and declaiming the first verses of Œdipus Tyrannus. - -This fit of enthusiasm was hardly subsided, when I passed the gates of -the palace into the great square, which received a faint gleam from its -casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, and to become the -resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were walking in parties upon -the pavement; some sought the convenient gloom of the porticoes with -their favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, and -filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to drink -coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A thoughtless giddy -transport prevailed; for, at this hour, anything like restraint seems -perfectly out of the question; and however solemn a magistrate or -senator may appear in the day, at night he lays up wig and robe and -gravity to sleep together, runs intriguing about in his gondola, takes -the reigning sultana under his arm, and so rambles half over the town, -which grows gayer and gayer as the day declines. - -Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in some -out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families -are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel -undisturbed with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself -cannot discover the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected doors, -by which these retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, whose -mistress disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has searched -for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though the prime -managers of intrigue, are often unacquainted with these interior -cabinets. When a gallant has a mind to pursue his adventures with -mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders his bark to wait, meets his -goddess in the crowd, and vanishes from all beholders. Surely, Venice is -the city in the universe best calculated for giving scope to the -observations of a devil upon two sticks. What a variety of -lurking-places would one stroke of his crutch uncover! - -Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, the -rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and mountebanks, -singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. I observed a -great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard Turkish and -Arabic muttering in every corner. Here the Sclavonian dialect -predominated; there some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. Had -Saint Mark’s church been the wondrous tower, and its piazza the chief -square, of the city of Babylon, there could scarcely have been a greater -confusion of languages. - -The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, and I -wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic to -another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, and -settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the same -breath. This instant I found myself in a circle of grave Armenian -priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, who -accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave proof that their -reputation for pliability and address was not ill-founded. - -I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian -counts or princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs, and -footmen, and governors, and staring like me, about them, when Madame de -Rosenberg arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. She -presented me to some of the most distinguished of the Venetian families -at their great casino, which looks into the piazza, and consists of five -or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, neither rich nor elegant, -where were a great many lights, and a great many ladies negligently -dressed, their hair falling very freely about them, and innumerable -adventures written in their eyes. The gentlemen were lolling upon the -sofas, or lounging about the apartments. - -The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was -carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; and, -for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of pleasing -extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing remained -save cards and stupidity. - -In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the affairs -of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and two or three -of them asked some feeble questions about the late tumults in London. It -was one o’clock before all the company were assembled, and I left them -at three, still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. Trieze is -their favourite game: _uno_, _due_, _tre_, _quatro_, _cinque_, _fante_, -_cavallo re_, are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other -sound. - -I wonder a lively people can endure such monotony, for I have been told -the Venetians are remarkably spirited; and so eager in the pursuit of -amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for instance, -after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the square, and -fidgeting about from one casino to another till morning dawns, will get -into a gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or -Fusina, and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, -and rattle back again as if the Devil were charioteer: by eleven the -party is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes to -council. - -This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as -examples of vivacity. Their nerves unstrung by early debaucheries, allow -no natural flow of lively spirits, and at best but a few moments of a -false and feverish activity. The approaches of sleep, forced back by an -immoderate use of coffee, render them weak and listless, and the -facility of being wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds not a -little to their indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern -neighbours in a more lazy light; who, thanks to their opium and their -harems, pass their lives in one perpetual doze. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary shore.--Scene of - the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.--Return to the Place of St. - Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles for anonymous - accusations.--The Council of Ten.--Terrible punishments of its - victims.--Statue of Neptune.--Fatal Waters.--Bridge of Sighs.--The - Fondamenti Nuovi.--Conservatory of the Mendicanti.--An - Oratorio.--Profound attention of the Audience. - - -August 4th, 1780. - -The heats were so excessive in the night, that I thought myself several -times on the point of suffocation, tossed about like a wounded fish, and -dreamt of the Devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, a faint breeze -restored me to life and reason. I slumbered till late in the day, and -the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier to row out to the -main ocean, that I might plunge into the waves, and hear and see nothing -but waters around me. - -We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, casinos, -and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, without any -apparent foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to be seen -before the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the bark, and -the vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the waters, and -but just above their level. I observed several, as I glided along, -supported by rows of well-proportioned columns, adorned with terms and -vases, beyond which the eye generally discovers a grand court, and -sometimes a garden. - -In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles behind, -and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio Maggiore, -whose elegant frontispiece was distinctly reflected by the calm waters, -launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Carthusian -and two or three other woody islands. I hailed the spot where I had -passed such a happy visionary evening, and nodded to my friends the -pines. - -A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked over -by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go regularly -to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be hoped, to -paradise; as the air of their barracks is abominable, and kills them -like blasted sheep. - -Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene of -the Doge’s pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the very spot to -which he sails in the Bucentaur, previously to wedding the sea. You have -heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen full -sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon the topic. -I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, partly, the same road as -the nuptial procession, in order to reach the beach, and was broiled and -dazzled accordingly. - -At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with toads -and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of being -interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless plains of -ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, extending on both -sides out of sight, and dashed into the waves, which were coursing one -another with a gentle motion, and breaking lightly on the shores. The -tide rolled over me as I lay floating about, buoyed up by the water, and -carried me wheresoever it listed. It might have borne me far out into -the main before I had been aware, so totally was I abandoned to the -illusion of the moment. My ears were filled with murmuring undecided -sounds; my limbs, stretched languidly on the surge, rose or sunk just as -it swelled or subsided. In this passive state I remained, till the sun -cast a less intolerable light, and the fishing-vessels, lying out in the -bay at a great distance, spread their sails and were coming home. - -Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the -gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to those -venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. Directing my -course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the grand court, -ascending the giants’ stairs, and examined at my leisure its -bas-reliefs. Then, taking the first guide that presented himself, I was -shown along several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable -pillars, into the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo Veronese -have covered with the triumphs of their country. - -A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one of the -first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, before -a solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly seemed -equally affected. Clouds of powder, and volleys of execrations issuing -every instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; and was led -from hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary -resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved with decency, -having never once expressed how much I wished the chefs-d’œuvre I had -been contemplating, less smoky and numerous. - -At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and caught -the sea-breeze in the open porticoes which front San Giorgio Maggiore. -The walls are covered in most places with grim visages sculptured in -marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow every lie that -malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few ears of the same -kind, dispersed about the Doge’s residence, to which one might apply -one’s own, and catch some account of the mysteries within; some little -dialogue between the three Inquisitors, or debate in the Council of Ten. - -This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual awe; -before which they appear with trembling and terror; and whose summons -they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it condemns its -victims to perpetual imprisonment, in close, stifling cells, between -the leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood of a -fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under the -canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, its majesty -is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. What other sovereign could -endure the idea of having his immediate residence polluted with tears? -or revel in his halls, conscious that many of his species were consuming -their hours in lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams -separated him from the scene of their tortures? However gaily disposed, -could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath which lie damp and -gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away by painful degrees, and -feel themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, -I could not regard the palace without horror, and wished for the -strength of a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay open -the secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and sunshine -into every den. - -When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of -Neptune, whom twenty ages ago I should have invoked to second my -enterprise. Once upon a time no deity had a freer hand at razing cities. -His execution was renowned throughout all antiquity, and the proudest -monarchs deprecated the wrath of KΡΕΙΩΝ ΕΝΟΣΙΧΘΩΝ. But, like -the other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is past and his trident -disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit found favour in the eyes of -fortune, and was led along the career of glory to the deliverance of -captives and the extirpation of monsters; but, in our degenerate times, -this easy road to fame is no longer open, and the means of producing -such signal events are perplexed and difficult. - -Abandoning therefore the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, I left -the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal -overshadowed by the lofty walls of the palace. Beneath these fatal -waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of are situated. There the -wretches lie marking the sound of the oars, and counting the free -passage of every gondola. Above, a marble bridge, of bold majestic -architecture, joins the highest part of the prisons to the secret -galleries of the palace; from whence criminals are conducted over the -arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I shuddered whilst passing below; -and believe it is not without cause, this structure is named PONTE DEI -SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I -could not dine in peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but -snatching my pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain -of fear and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful engines in -the style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and refreshed myself with the -cool air and cheerful scenery of the Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or -terrace of white marble, which commands the whole series of isles, from -San Michele to Torcello, - - “That rise and glitter o’er the ambient tide.” - -Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas -which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now and -then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called Il -Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse. - -When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, M. -de Benincasa accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four -conservatorios, which give the best musical education conceivable to -near one hundred young women. You may imagine how admirably those of -the Mendicanti in particular are taught, since their establishment is -under the direction of Bertoni, who breathes around him the very soul of -harmony. The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio was dark and -solemn; a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black marble and highly -polished, reflected the lamps which burn perpetually before the altar. -Every tribune was thronged with people, whose profound silence showed -them worthy auditors of this master’s music. Here were no cackling old -women, or groaning Methodists, such as infest our English tabernacles, -and scare one’s ears with hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso -obligato. All were still and attentive, imbibing the plaintive notes of -the voices with eagerness; and scarce a countenance but seemed deeply -affected with David’s sorrows, the subject of the performance. I sat -retired in a solitary tribune, and felt them as my own. Night came on -before the last chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its sacred -melody. - - - - -LETTER V. - - M. de Viloison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings of ancient - Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian’s - master-piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo.--The distant - Euganean hills. - - -August 18, 1780. - -It rains; the air is refreshed and I have courage to resume my pen, -which the sultry weather had forced to lie dormant so long. I like this -odd town of Venice, and find every day some new amusement in rambling -about its innumerable canals and alleys. Sometimes I pry about the great -church of Saint Mark, and examine the variety of marbles and mazes of -delicate sculpture with which it is covered. The cupola, glittering with -gold, mosaic, and paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never -fails to transport me to the period of the Eastern empire. I think -myself in Constantinople, and expect Michael Paleologus with all his -train. One circumstance alone prevents my observing half the treasures -of the place, and holds down my fancy just springing into the air: I -mean the vile stench which exhales from every recess and corner of the -edifice, and which all the incense of the altars cannot subdue. - -When no longer able to endure this noxious atmosphere, I run up the -Campanile in the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the -gallery, breathe the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at -my leisure all Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and -long tracks of islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a -provision of wholesome breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, and -venture into the most curious and murky quarters of the city, in search -of Turks and Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I please -about Cairo and Damascus. - -Asiatics find Venice very much to their taste, and all those I conversed -with allowed its customs and style of living had a good deal of -conformity to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee-houses and -sipping of sorbets agree perfectly well with the inhabitants of the -Ottoman empire, who stalk about here in their proper dresses, and smoke -their own exotic pipes, without being stared and wondered at as in most -other European capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative -and enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond the -rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile affairs. - -The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their -propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has been -lately translated into their modern language, and some obliging papa or -other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia into -a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on a stall, -under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went one day to -admire the antiques in its vestibules. - -Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should -have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de Viloison, from a -place where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other -utensils were ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active -investigator of Homer since the days of the good bishop of Thessalonica, -bespatters you with more learning in a minute than others communicate in -half a year; quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, &c. with formidable -fluency; and drove me from one end of the room to the other with a storm -of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than hail, and in an instant I -found myself so weighed down and covered, that I prayed, for mercy’s -sake, to be introduced, by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads -about as a curiosity; a poor harmless good sort of a soul, calm and -indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental languages to -perfection: ideas he has in none. - -We went all together to view a collection of medals in one of the -Gradanigo palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with -paintings that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that I -had an opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland -nothingness of my companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent as the -polar regions, not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not one -bright ray of fancy ever glittered in his mind; without love or anger, -pleasure or pain, his days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, -I must confess I envied such comfortable apathy. - -After having passed an instructive hour in examining the medals and -drawings, M. de Viloison proposed conducting me to the Armenian convent, -but I begged to be excused, and went to San Giovanni e Paolo, a church -to be held most holy in the annals of painting, since it contains that -masterpiece of Titian, the martyrdom of the hermits St. Paul and St. -Peter. - -In the evening I rowed out as usual - - “On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea,” - -to observe the effect of sunset on the tufted gardens of the Giudeca, -and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the happiest region -of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the simplicity of a pastoral -life, long before the arrival of Antenor. In these primeval days deep -forests and extensive pastures covered the shores of the Adriatic, and -innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. This golden period -ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and Heneti; who, led by Antenor, -drove away the unfortunate savages, and possessed themselves of their -habitations. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous city of - Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music on the inhabitants of - the Islands.--Solitary fields infested by serpents.--Remains of - ancient sculpture.--Antique and fantastic ornaments of the - Cathedral of Torcello.--San Lorenzo’s chair.--Dine in a - Convent.--The Nuns.--Oratorio of Sisera.--Remarks on the - music.--Singing of the Marchetti.--A female orchestra. - - -I am just returned from visiting the isles of Burano, Torcello, and -Mazorbo, distant about five miles from Venice. To these amphibious spots -the Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, fled from the rapine of -Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, there was a time when they -presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond them, on the coast of the -Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, with its six stately -gates, which Dandolo mentions. Its neighbourhood was scattered with -innumerable villas and temples, composing altogether a prospect which -Martial compares to Baiæ: - - “Æmula Baianis Altini littora villis.” - -But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely away, -and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and mis-shapen fragments, -to vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, Costanziaco -and Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the bowers and gardens -of the Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; those which remain are -scarcely worthy to rise above their surface. - -Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I could -not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of the earth -once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the roofs, perhaps, -of undiscovered palaces. M. de R. to whom I communicated my ideas, -entered at once into the scheme; hiring therefore a _peiotte_, we took -some provisions and music (to us equally necessaries of life) and -launched into the canal, between Saint Michael and Murano. Our -instruments played several delightful airs, that called forth the -inhabitants of every island, and held them in silence, as if -spell-bound, on the edge of their quays and terraces, till we were out -of hearing. - -Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets began to -sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie -stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of purple flowers, -and could distinguish the low hum of the insects which hover above them; -such was the stillness of the place. Coasting these solitary fields, we -wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered by gardens of figs and -pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures of cane and reed: an -aromatic plant, which the people justly dignify with the title of marine -incense, clothes the margin of the waters. It proved very serviceable in -subduing a musky odour, which attacked us the moment we landed, and -which proceeds from serpents that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say -the gondoliers, defend immense treasures which lie buried under the -ruins. Woe to those who attempt to invade them, or to pry too cautiously -about! - -Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mound of fragments -unnoticed, and made the best of our way to a little green, bounded on -one side by a miserable shed, decorated with the name of the Podesta’s -residence, and on the other by a circular church. Some remains of -tolerable antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; and the dome, -supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though uncouth and -ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and transports the -fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it was raised. - -Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career to our -imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil composed of -crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose arches, in the -ancient Roman style, convinced us that it dates at least as high as the -sixth or seventh century. - -Nothing can well be more fantastic than the ornaments of this structure, -formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and encrusted with -a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the Confessor’s tomb. -The pavement, composed of various precious marbles, is richer and more -beautiful than one could have expected, in a place where every other -object savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther end, beyond the -altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like the gradines of a -diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms of the apostles, in -red, blue, green, and black mosaic, and in the midst of the group a -sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, where Saint Lorenzo -Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the Lord knows how long -ago! The fount for holy water stands by the principal entrance, fronting -this curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some place of Gentile -worship. The figures of horned imps clinging round its sides, more -devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever beheld. The dragons on old -china are not more whimsical; filled with bats’ blood it would have been -an admirable present to the sabbath of witches, and have cut a capital -figure in their orgies. The sculpture is not the most delicate, but I -cannot say a great deal about it, as very little light reaches the spot -where it is fixed: indeed, the whole church is far from luminous, its -windows being narrow and near the roof, with shutters composed of blocks -of marble, which nothing but the whirlwinds of the last day, one should -think, would move from their hinges. - -By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular -edifice, and tried to catch some small portion of sanctity by sitting in -San Lorenzo’s chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring convent, and -the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, peeped out of -their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the grate. Some few -agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark sisterhood; all -seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the music; two or three of -them, probably the last immured, let fall a tear, and suffered the -recollection of the world and its profane joys to interrupt for a moment -their sacred tranquillity. - -We stayed till the sun was low, on purpose that they might listen as -long as possible to a harmony which seemed to issue, as the old abbess -expressed herself, from the gates of paradise ajar. A thousand -benedictions consecrated our departure; twilight came on just as we -entered the bark and rowed out upon the waves, agitated by a fresh gale, -but fearing nothing under the protection of Santa Margherita, whose good -wishes our music had secured. - -In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went -immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the oratorio -of Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great fire and -originality in this performance; and a knowledge of character seldom -found in the most celebrated masters. The supplication of the thirsty -chieftain, and Jael’s insinuating arts and pious treachery, are -admirably expressed; but the agitation and boding slumbers which precede -his death, are imagined in the highest strain of genius. The terror and -agony of his dreams made me start, more than once, from my seat; and all -the horrors of his assassination seemed full before me. - -Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the part of -Sisera, and seconded the composer’s ideas by the most feeling and -spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret more on leaving -Venice, than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I fly to -it, and hear the most striking finales in Paesiello’s and Anfossi’s -operas, as long and often as I please. - -The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, I suppose, it -is entirely of the feminine gender, and that nothing is more common than -to see a delicate white hand journeying across an enormous double bass, -or a pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, at a French -horn. Some that are grown old and Amazonian, who have abandoned their -fiddles and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettle-drum; and one -poor limping lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an admirable -figure on the bassoon. - -Good night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for this -angelic choir. The poetry I send you. The music takes up too much room -to travel at present. One day or other, perhaps, we may hear it in some -dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed and nature in alarm. - -This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, were I not -hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in Bertoni’s -opera of Quinto Fabio. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Coast of Fusina.--The Brenta.--A Village of - Palaces.--Fiesso.--Exquisite singing of the Galuzzi.--Marietta - Cornaro.--Scenes of enchantment and fascination. - - -I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my peaceful excursions upon -the Adriatic. No bright rays illuminated my departure, the sun was -concealed in clouds; but the coolness and perfume of the air made ample -amends for his absence. - -About an hour’s rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, brought -us to the coast of Fusina, right opposite the opening where the Brenta -mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between banks of verdure, -crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every stalk, and depending -from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint and iris clothe -the brink of the stream, except where interrupted by a tall growth of -reeds and osiers. The morning continued to lower as we advanced; scarce -a wind ventured to breathe: all was still and placid as the surface of -the river. No sound struck my ears except the bargemen hallooing to open -the sluices, and deepen the water. - -As yet I had not perceived an habitation, nor any other objects than -green inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and -poplars. It grew late before we glided along by the Mira, a village of -palaces, whose courts and gardens, as magnificent as statues, terraces, -and vases can make them, are far from composing a rural prospect. - -Such artificial scenery not engaging much of my attention, we stayed no -longer than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before -sunset. Passing the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering -noise, we continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its -broad full stream through impenetrable copses. Day was about to close -when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty evening, I could scarcely -distinguish the pompous façade of the Pisani palace. That of Cornaro, -where we were engaged to sup, looks upon a broad mass of foliage which -I contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the dusk. - -We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the entrance, -breathing the freshness of the wood after a shower which had lately -fallen. The Galuzzi sang some of her father Ferandini’s compositions -with surprising energy; her cheek was flushed, her eyes glistened; the -whole tone of her countenance was that of a person rapt and inspired. I -forgot both time and place while she was singing. The night stole -imperceptibly away, before I awoke from my trance. - -I do not recollect ever to have passed an evening, which every -circumstance conspired to render so full of charm. In general, my -musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the phlegm and -stupidity of my neighbourhood; but here, every one seemed to catch the -flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. Marietta Cornaro, whose -lively talents are the boast of the Venetians, threw quick around her -the glancing fires of genius. - -What with the song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual meteors, I -scarcely knew to what element I was transported, and doubted for -several moments, whether I was not fallen into a celestial dream: to -wake was painful, and it was not without much lingering reluctance I -left these scenes of enchantment and fascination, repeating with -melancholy earnestness that pathetic sonnet of Petrarch’s-- - - O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento, - O stelle congiurate a’ impoverirme! - O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme, - Partend’ io, per non esser mai contento? - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Reveries.--Walls of Padua.--Confused Pile dedicated to Saint - Anthony.--Devotion at his Shrine.--Penitential - Worshippers.--Magnificent Altar.--Sculpture of Sansovino.--Colossal - Chamber like Noah’s Ark. - - -The splendour of the rising sun, for once in my life, drew little of my -attention. I was too deeply plunged in my reveries, to notice the -landscape which lay before me; and the walls of Padua presented -themselves some time ere I was aware. At any other moment, how sensibly -should I have been affected with their appearance! How many ideas of -Antenor and his Trojans, would have thronged into my memory! but now I -regarded the scene with indifference, and passed many a palace, and many -a woody garden, with my eyes riveted to the ground. The first object -that appeared upon lifting them up, was a confused pile of spires and -cupolas, dedicated to blessed Saint Anthony, one of whose most eloquent -sermons the great Addison has translated _con amore_, and in his very -best manner. - -You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained -for this inspired preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to his -shrine. Mine was a disturbed spirit, and required all the balm of Saint -Anthony’s kindness to appease it. Perhaps you will say I had better have -gone to bed, and applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. -It is probable that you are in the right; but I could not retire to rest -without first venting some portion of effervescence in sighs and -supplications. The nave was filled with decrepit women and feeble -children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and other provisions; which, -by good Anthony’s interposition, they hoped to sell advantageously in -the course of the day. Beyond these, nearer the choir, and in a gloomier -part of the edifice, knelt a row of rueful penitents, smiting their -breasts, and lifting their eyes to heaven. Further on, in front of the -dark recess, where the sacred relics are deposited, a few desperate, -melancholy sinners lay prostrate. - -To these I joined myself. The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this -religious quarter; and the only light it received proceeded from the -golden lamps, which hang in clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, -decked with the most lavish magnificence, supports the shrine. Those who -are profoundly touched with its sanctity, may approach, and walking -round, look through the crevices of the tomb, which, it is observed, -exude a balsamic odour. But supposing a traveller ever so heretical, I -would advise him by no means to neglect this pilgrimage; since every -part of the recess he visits is decorated with exquisite sculptures. -Sansovino and other renowned artists have vied with each other in -carving the alto relievos of the arcade, which, for design and -execution, would do honour to the sculptors of antiquity. - -Having observed these objects with less exactness than they merited, I -hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am -acquainted with. Here I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. It is -true my slumbers were not a little agitated. The saint had been deaf to -my prayer, and I still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal. - -At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards scarcely knowing, nor much -caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall of the town; -an enormous edifice, larger considerably than that of Westminster, but -free from stalls, or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one -spacious vault of brown timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still -increased by the lateness of the hour, and not diminished by the wan -light, admitted through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and -shape of this colossal chamber, the arching of the roof, with enormous -rafters stretching across it, and, above all, the watery gleams that -glanced through the dull casements, possessed my fancy with ideas of -Noah’s ark, and almost persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary vessel. -The representation one sees of it in many an old Dutch Bible, seems to -be formed upon this very model, and for several moments I indulged the -chimera of imagining myself confined within its precincts. Could I but -choose my companions, I should have no great objection to encounter a -deluge, and to float away a few months upon the waves! - -We remained till night walking to and fro in the ark; it was then full -time to retire, as the guardian of the place was by no means formed to -divine our diluvian ideas. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous - attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini’s music.--Another - excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean hills.--Newly - discovered ruins.--High Mass in the great Church of Saint - Anthony.--A thunder-storm.--Palladio’s Theatre at - Vicenza.--Verona.--An aërial chamber.--Striking prospect from - it.--The Amphitheatre.--Its interior.--Leave Verona.--Country - between that town and Mantua.--German soldiers.--Remains of the - palace of the Gonzagas.--Paintings of Julio Romano.--A ruined - garden.--Subterranean apartments. - - -Immediately after breakfast we went to St. Justina’s. Both extremities -of the cross aisles are terminated by altar-tombs of very remote -antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of the evangelists, supported -by wreathed columns of alabaster, round which, to my no small -astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were waddling on their knees, -persuaded, it seems, that this strange devotion would cure the -rheumatism, or any other aches with which they were afflicted. You can -have no conception of the ridiculous attitudes into which they threw -themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, between -the middle column of the tomb and those which surround it. No criminal -in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful appearance, no swine ever -scrubbed itself more fervently than these infatuated lubbers. - -I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their lot -for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to -Turini’s[7] music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious tones -of the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by the -echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful effect. -Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions with great -intelligence to the place. Nothing can be more original than his style. -Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower of his days, he -gave up his entire soul to music, and can scarcely be said to exist, but -from its mediums. - -When we came out of St. Justina’s, the azure of the sky and the softness -of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. Where could I wish to -go, but to the place in which I had been so delighted? Besides, it was -proper to make the Cornaro another visit, and proper to see the Pisani -palace, which happily I had before neglected. All these proprieties -considered, Madame de R. accompanied me to Fiesso. - -The sun was just sunk when we arrived. The whole ether in a glow, and -the fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath them I -walked in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting -melody. She sang till the fineness of the weather tempted us to quit the -palace for the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned upon the -woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a scene naturally -peaceful. - -We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had most -affected me, morning began to dawn. - - -September 8th. - -The want of sound repose, after my return home, had thrown me into a -feverish and impatient mood. I had scarcely snatched some slight -refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina’s; but -tried this time to compose myself, in vain. - -Madame de Rosenberg, finding my endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by -way of diverting my attention, that we should set out immediately for -one of the Euganean hills, about six or seven miles from Padua, at the -foot of which some antique baths had been very lately discovered. I -consented without hesitation, little concerned whither I went, or what -happened to me, provided the scene was often shifted. The lanes and -inclosures we passed, in our road to the hills, appeared in all the -gaiety that verdure, flowers, and sunshine could give them. But my -pleasures were overcast, and I beheld every object, however cheerful, -through a dusky medium. - -Deeply engaged in conversation, distance made no impression, and I found -myself entering the meadow, over which the ruins are scattered, whilst I -imagined myself several miles distant. No scene could be more smiling -than this which here presented itself, or answer, in a fuller degree, -the ideas I had always formed of Italy. - -Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the meadow, we traversed its -surface, and shortly perceived among the grass, an oblong basin, -incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large and -perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and still retaining their -polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still perfectly -discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. Near -the principal bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular -apartments, paved with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from -inelegant. Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the -freshness of the ruin everywhere shows that it has not long been -exposed. - -Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; and -Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to maintain -the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any learned -parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with all its -importance, to calmer and less impatient minds. - -Having taken a cursory view of the ruins, we ascended the hill just -above them, and surveyed a prospect of the same nature, though in a more -lovely and expanded style than that which I beheld from Mosolente. Padua -crowns the landscape, with its towers and cupolas rising from a -continued grove; and, from the drawings I have seen, I should -conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of a similar appearance. - -Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we brought them home to the -fragments beneath our feet. The walls exhibit the _opus reticulatum_, so -common in the environs of Naples. A sort of terrace, with the remaining -bases of columns which encircle the hill, leads me to imagine here were -formerly arcades and porticos, constructed for enjoying the view; for on -the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable edifice, and am -therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more than a colonnade -surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight fane, or pavilion, -for the recreation of the bathers below. - -A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled -additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour approached, -which was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, and to restore -the tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But now it diffused its -reviving coolness in vain, and I remained, if possible, more sad and -restless than before. - - -September 9th. - -You may imagine how I felt when the hour of leaving Padua drew near. It -happened to be a festival, and high mass was celebrated at the great -church of Saint Anthony in all its splendour. The ceremony was about -half over when such a peal of thunder reverberated through the vaults -and cupolas, as I expected would have shaken them to their foundations. -The principal dome appeared invested with a sheet of fire; and the -effect of terror produced upon the majority of the congregation, by this -sudden lighting up of the most gloomy recesses of the edifice, was so -violent that they rushed out in the wildest confusion. Had my faith been -less lively, I should have followed their example; but, absorbed in the -thought of a separation from those to whom I felt fondly attached, I -remained till the ceremony ended; then took leave of Madame de R. with -heartfelt regret, and was driven away to Vicenza. - - -September 10th. - -The morning being overcast, I went to Palladio’s theatre. It is -impossible to conceive a structure more truly classical, or to point out -a single ornament which has not the best antique authority. I am not in -the least surprised that the citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave -in to this great architect’s plan, and sacrificed large sums to erect -so beautiful a model. When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, -the representation of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic -decorations. - -After I had mused a long while in the most retired recess of the -edifice, fancying I had penetrated into a real and perfect monument of -antiquity, which till this moment had remained undiscovered, we set out -for Verona. The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of -battlemented walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a -grand irregular sweep, and incloses the city with many a woody garden, -and grove of slender cypress. Beyond rises a group of mountains; -opposite to which a plain presents itself, decked with all the variety -of meads and thickets, olive-grounds and vineyards. - -Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, and -passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) to the -inn, a lofty handsome-looking building; but so full that we were obliged -to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to all the winds, -like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions, and commanding the roofs of -half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up amongst them, and the shady -hills, terminating the perspective of walls and turrets, formed a -romantic scene. - -Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater -freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Guarda, and the delicious -fruits of the country. Thus did I remain, solacing myself, breathing the -cool air, and remarking the tints of the mountains. Neither paintings -nor antiques could tempt me from my aërial situation; I refused hunting -out the famous works of Paul Veronese scattered over the town, and sat -like the owl in the Georgics, - - Solis et occasum servans de culmine summo. - -Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing down stairs, enquired -for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the most entire -monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead of bringing me -a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a professed antiquary, -one of those precise plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have -so capital an aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little -erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with -eternal fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of conduits, and -knew to admiration how the filthiness of all the amphitheatre was -disposed of. - -But perceiving my inattention, and having just grace enough to remark -that I chose one side of the street when he preferred the other, and -sometimes trotted through despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty -bow, I threw him half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed -a gloomy arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf covers -its surface, from which a spacious sweep of gradines rises to a majestic -elevation. Four arches, with their simple Doric ornament, alone remain -of the grand circular arcade which once crowned the highest seats of the -amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of the -structure would have equally resisted the ravages of time. Nothing can -be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not a block has -sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries they may have -received have been carefully repaired. The two chief entrances are -rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage being permitted -through the amphitheatre except at public shows and representations, -sometimes still given in the arena. - -When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed, and nothing -moved, except the weeds and grasses which skirt the walls and tremble -with the faintest breeze. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle -of the arena, I enjoyed the freedom of my situation, its profound -stillness and solitude. How long I remained shut in by endless gradines -on every side, wrapped as it were in the recollections of perished ages, -is not worth noting down; but when I passed from the amphitheatre to the -opening before it, night was drawing on, and the grand outline of a -terrific feudal fortress, once inhabited by the Scaligeri, alone dimly -visible. - - -September 11th. - -Traversing once more the grand piazza, and casting a last glance upon -the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty arch which terminates the -perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, picturesque street, -commanding, whenever you look back, a striking scene of towers, cypress, -and mountains. - -The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one -continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, with here and there a knot of -poplars, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself rises out of a -morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so choked -up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It requires a creative -imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and a strong -prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where Virgil was born. - -The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what -croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea being -scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and refused -stirring out till late in the evening. - -A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the -Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, and was -amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by the bold pencil of -Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and the arabesques, with -which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal those of the Vatican. Being -painted in fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their -number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away. - -The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the -purity and gracefulness of Raphael; the story of Polypheme is very -conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his beloved Galatea, on the -shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic enemy, seated above on the -brow of Ætna, seems by the paleness and horrors of his countenance to -meditate some terrible revenge. - -When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked into -a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with -fountains and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst -weeds and beds of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered -with vegetation. Here nettles grow thick and rampant; there, tuberoses -and jessamine spring from mounds of ruins, which during the elegant -reign of the Gonzagas led to grottoes and subterranean apartments, -concealed from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most refined enjoyments. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge of - the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected with those - mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to Bologna.--Magnificent - Convent of Madonna del Monte.--Natural and political commotions in - Bologna.--Proceed towards the mountains.--Dreary prospects.--The - scenery improves.--Herds of goats.--A run with them.--Return to the - carriage.--Wretched hamlet.--Miserable repast. - - -September 12th, 1780. - -A shower, having fallen, the air was refreshed, and the drops still -glittered upon the vines, through which our road conducted us. Three or -four miles from Mantua the scene changed to extensive grounds of rice, -and meads of the tenderest verdure watered by springs, whose frequent -meanders gave to the whole prospect the appearance of a vast green -carpet shot with silver. Further on we crossed the Po, and passing -Guastalla, entered a woody country full of inclosures and villages; -herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry parading before every wicket. - -The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon the -elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that hang -streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised to find -myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every road -crowded with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine a -pleasanter scene. - -Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of that -sketch-inviting little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus -might have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, -swarming with bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, enabled us to -pass too rapidly through so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of -fields and copses as we were driven along, that could have afforded me -amusement for hours, and orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I -could have walked till evening. The trees literally bent under their -loads of fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the -ground. - -Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional -splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the irregular -ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a striking contrast -to the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed my eyes on the chain -of distant mountains, and indulged a thousand romantic conjectures of -what was passing in their recesses--hermits absorbed in -prayer--beautiful Contadine fetching water from springs, and banditti -conveying their victims, perhaps at this very moment, to caves and -fastnesses. - -Such were the dreams that filled my fancy, and kept it incessantly -employed till it was dusk, and the moon began to show herself; the same -moon which but a few nights ago had seen me so happy at Fiesso. I left -the carriage, and running into the dim haze, abandoned myself to the -recollections it excited.... - -At length, having wandered where chance or the wildness of my fancy led, -till the lateness of the evening alarmed me, I regained the chaise as -fast as I could, and arrived between twelve and one at Modena, the place -of my destination. - - -September 13th. - -We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose richness -and fertility encreased in proportion as we drew near that celebrated -mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of hills commands the city, -variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable. On the highest -acclivity of this range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna del -Monte, embosomed in wood and joined to the town by a corridor a league -in length. This vast portico ascending the steeps and winding amongst -the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes visible, produces an -effect wonderfully grand and singular. I longed to have mounted the -height by so extraordinary a passage; and hope on some future day to be -better acquainted with Santa Maria del Monte. - -At present I have very little indeed to say about Bologna (where I -passed only two hours) except that it is sadly out of humour, an -earthquake and Cardinal Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and -people. For half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these -last six months, the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched -incessantly; so that, between natural and political commotions, the -Bolognese must have passed an agreeable summer. - -Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not -likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to another -opportunity, and proceeded immediately after dinner towards the -mountains. We were soon in the midst of crags and stony channels, that -stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, but during the -summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half the scorpions in -the country. - -For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but dreary -hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than those to -which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or chapel peeped out -of the parched fern and grasses, with which these desolate fields are -clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim trudging along, -and staring about him as if he waited only for night and opportunity to -have additional reasons for hurrying to Loretto. - -During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene -increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second -post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green valleys -at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, scattered over -with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which the nakedness of the -impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides of the cliffs in general -consist of rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth and -verdant, and continually browsed by herds of white goats, which were -gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed beneath. - -I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were stretched -by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a few minutes -whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare me with all -their horns. Being tired with skipping and butting at me in vain, the -whole herd trotted away, and I after them. They led me a dance from crag -to crag and from thicket to thicket. - -It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend from -the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what monster -inhabited such retirements, so gave over my pursuit lest some Polypheme -or other might make me repent it. I looked around, the carriage was out -of sight; but hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, I soon came -up with them, and mounted another rapid ascent, from whence an extensive -tract of cliff and forest land was discernible. - -A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, and made a -dismal rustle amongst the woods of chesnut that hung on the mountain’s -side, through which we were forced to pass. Walking out of the sound of -the carriage, I began interpreting the language of the leaves, not -greatly to my own advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was -no prophet of good, and had I but commanded an oracle, as ancient -visionaries were wont, I should have flung mischief about me. - -How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, but -believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular forest, and -saw faintly before us an assemblage of miserable huts, where we were to -sleep. This wretched hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak -mountain, and every gust that stirs, shakes the whole village to its -foundations. At our approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns and -invited us with a grin, which I shall always remember, to a dish of -mustard and crows’ gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of -tasting, lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, condemned to -mope eternally on the black rafters of the cottage. - -After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots to -make a fire. Pitching my bed in a warm corner I soon fell asleep, and -forgot all my cares and inquietudes. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant - view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the Gallery.--Relics of - ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A Medusa’s head by Leonardo da - Vinci.--Curious picture by Polemberg.--The Venus de - Medicis.--Exquisitely sculptured figure of Morpheus.--Vast - Cathedral.--Garden of Boboli.--Views from different parts of - it.--Its resemblance to an antique Roman garden. - - -September 14th, 1780. - -The sun had not been long above the horizon, before we set forward upon -a craggy pavement hewn out of rough cliffs and precipices. Scarcely a -tree was visible, and the few that presented themselves began already to -shed their leaves. The raw nipping air of this desert with difficulty -spares a blade of vegetation; and in the whole range of these extensive -eminences I could not discover a single corn-field or pasture. -Inhabitants, you may guess, there were none. I would defy even a Scotch -highlander to find means of subsistence in so rude a soil. - -Towards mid-day, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, -and began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved as well -as the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, we saw -groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string of mules -and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and peaches from this -little caravan, and spread my repast upon a bank, in the midst of -lavender bushes in full bloom. - -Continuing our route, we bade adieu to the realms of poverty and -barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale, shaded by woody acclivities. -Amongst these we wound along, between groves of poplar and cypress, till -late in the evening. Upon winding a hill we discovered Florence at a -distance surrounded with gardens and terraces rising one above another; -the full moon seemed to shine with a peculiar charm upon this favoured -region. Her serene light on the pale grey of the olive, gave a visionary -and Elysian appearance to the landscape, and I was sorry when I found -myself excluded from it by the gates of Florence. - -I slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it was time next -morning (Sept. 15,) to visit the gallery, and worship the Venus de -Medicis. I felt, upon entering this world of refinement, as if I could -have taken up my abode in it for ever, but, confused with the multitude -of objects, I knew not on which first to bend my attention, and ran -childishly by the ample ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a -parterre, that skims before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers. - -Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the angle -and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with -master-pieces of bronze and marble. A minute brought me to the extremity -of this range, vast as it was; then, flying down a third, adorned in the -same delightful manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and -began to reflect a little more maturely upon the company in which I -found myself. Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, -breathing divinity: and Cybele, the mother of the gods. - -Having regarded these powers with due veneration, I next cast my eyes -upon a black figure, whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of -sleep. You know my fondness for this drowsy personage, and that it is -not the first time I have quitted the most splendid society for him. I -found him at present, of touchstone, with the countenance of a towardly -brat, sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist had not conceived -very poetical ideas of the god, or else he never would have represented -him with so little grace and dignity. - -Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived the -transports of enthusiasm beginning to subside, and felt myself calm -enough to follow the herd of guides and spectators from chamber to -chamber, cabinet to cabinet, without falling into errors of rapture and -admiration. We were led slowly and moderately through the large rooms, -containing the portraits of painters, good, bad, and indifferent, from -Raphael to Liotard; then into a museum of bronzes, which would afford -both amusement and instruction for years. - -When I had rather alarmed than satisfied my curiosity by rapidly running -over a multitude of candelabrums, urns, and sacred utensils, we entered -a small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly decorated, and -filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship in bronze and -various metals, classed in exact order. Here are crowds of diminutive -deities and tutelary lars, to whom the superstition of former days -attributed those midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the -misfortunes of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are -preserved a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and other -grotesque relics of ancient credulity. - -In the centre of the room I remarked a table, beautifully formed of -polished gems, and, near it, the statue of a genius with his familiar -serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the treasured -antiquities. From this chamber we were conducted into another, which -opens to that part of the gallery where the busts of Adrian and Antinous -are placed. Two pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of -ancient armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several -perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of oriental -alabaster about ten feet in height, - - Lucido e terso, e bianco, più che latte. - -I put my guide’s patience to the proof, by lingering to admire the -column and cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are impregnated, -obliged me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of saloons, with low -arched roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure and gold. Several -medallions appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably well -painted, with representations of splendid feasts and tournaments for -which Florence was once so famous. - -A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers the -walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than a Medusa’s -head by Leonardo da Vinci. It appears just severed from the body and -cast on the damp pavement of a cavern: a deadly paleness covers the -countenance, and the mouth exhales a pestilential vapour; the snakes, -which fill almost the whole picture, beginning to untwist their folds; -one or two seemed already crept away, and crawling up the rock in -company with toads and other venomous reptiles. - -Here are a great many Polembergs: one in particular, the strangest I -ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls he is -in general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject Virgil -ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst the ruins -of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. These -mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying upon the -damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous lobster, seems -very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable mortal, who sprawls, -though in vain, to escape from his claws. This performance, whimsical as -it is, retains all that softness of tint and delicacy of pencil for -which Polemberg is so renowned. - -Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the painter’s choice, I -should have passed over this picture, like a thousand more, and have -brought you immediately to the tribune. Need I say I was spell-bound the -moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus de -Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a beauty no copy -has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs exceeded the liveliest -idea I had formed to myself of their perfection. - -When I had taken my eyes reluctantly away from this beautiful object, I -cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at the -feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant lion -serves him for a pillow; two ample wings, carved with the utmost -delicacy, are gathered under him; two others, budding from his temples, -half-concealed by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid hands scarcely -hold a bunch of poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding to his -influence. Nothing can be more just than the expression of sleep in the -countenance of the little divinity. His lion too is perfectly lulled, -and rests his muzzle upon his fore paws as quiet as a domestic spaniel. -My ill-humour at seeing this deity so grossly sculptured in the gallery, -was dissipated by the gracefulness of his appearance in the tribune. I -was now contented, for the artist had realized my ideas; and, if I may -venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher perfection, and, -at the same time, kept more justly within its province. Sleeping figures -with me always produce the finest illusion; but when I see an archer in -the very act of discharging his arrow, a dancer with one foot in the -air, or a gladiator extending his fist to all eternity, I grow tired, -and view such wearisome attitudes with infinitely more admiration than -pleasure. - -The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the tribune. In -my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, inlaid -with the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered work, -like an old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have turned his -building inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented than the -exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is vast and -solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar in its centre, -inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred feet in diameter. There -is something imposing in this decoration, as it suggests the idea of a -sanctuary, into which none but the holy ought to penetrate. However -profane I might feel myself, I took the liberty of entering, and sat -down in a niche. Not a ray of light reaches this sacred inclosure, but -through the medium of narrow windows, high in the dome, and richly -painted. A sort of yellow tint predominates, which gives additional -solemnity to the altar, and paleness to the votary before it. I was -sensible of the effect, and obtained at least the colour of sanctity. - -Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and feasted -upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked to one of -the bridges across the Arno, and from thence to the garden of Boboli, -which lies behind the Grand Duke’s palace, stretched out on the side of -a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, robed by a thick underwood -of bay and myrtle, above which rise several nodding towers, and a long -sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely concealed by ivy. You would -have been enraptured with the broad masses of shade and dusky alleys -that opened as I advanced, with white statues of fauns and sylvans -glimmering amongst them; some of which pour water into sarcophagi of the -purest marble, covered with antique relievos. The capitals of columns -and ancient friezes are scattered about as seats. - -On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves which -spring above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I -followed a winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to a -green platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence deep -beneath, and the tops of the hills which encircle it jagged with pines; -here and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene -extends as far as the eye can reach. - -Still ascending I attained the brow of the eminence, and had nothing but -the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above me. On -this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis-work, clothed -with luxuriant vines. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands extended in -the act of scattering fertility over the country, crowns the summit. - -Descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came to the -orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, with -marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring cedars and -tall aërial cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique Roman -garden so vividly into my mind, that, lost in the train of recollections -this idea excited, I expected every instant to be called to the table of -Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticos, and to stretch myself on his -purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for a summons till the approach -of night, I returned delighted with a ramble that had led my imagination -so far into antiquity. - -Friday, Sept. 16.--My impatience to hear Pacchierotti called me up with -the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest of musical -pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a fertile plain, -bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns and villages. We -passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in the afternoon entered the -Lucchese territory, by a clean paved road, which runs through chestnut -copses bordered with broom in blossom, and an immense variety of heaths; -a red soil peeping forth from the vegetation, adds to the richness of -the landscape, which swells all the way into gentle acclivities: and at -about seven or eight miles from the city spreads all round into -mountains, green to their very summits, and diversified with gardens and -palaces. More pleasing scenery can with difficulty be imagined: I was -quite charmed with beholding it, as I knew very well that the opera -would keep me a long while chained down in its neighbourhood. - -Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since I defy -almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. Narrow -streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; everybody -in black, according with the gloom of their habitations, which however -are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having all grated windows, -they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. My spirits fell many -degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when I found Friday was -meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its inhabitants, and no -opera to be performed, I grew wofully out of humour. Instead of a -delightful symphony, I heard nothing for some time but the clatter of -plates and the swearing of waiters. - -Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of -distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin. -Overhearing my sad complaint for want of music, they most generously -determined I should have my fill of it, and, getting together a few -scrapers, began such an academia as drove me to the further end of a -very spacious apartment, whilst they possessed the other. The hopes and -heir of the family--a chubby dolt of between eighteen and nineteen, his -uncle, a thickset smiling personage, and a brace of innocent-looking -younger brothers, plied their fiddles with a hearty good will, waggled -their double chins, and played out of tune with the most happy -unconsciousness, as amateurs are apt to do ninety-nine times in a -hundred. - -Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent -the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely ill, -at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and attendant -females, kept ogling him with great perseverance. Those who could not -get in, squinted through the crevices of the door. Abbates and -greyhounds were fidgetting continually without. In short, I was so -persecuted with questions, criticisms, and concertos, that, pleading -headache and indisposition, I escaped about ten o’clock, and shook -myself when I got safe to my apartment like a worried spaniel. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He catches - cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is in commotion, and - send a deputation to remonstrate with the Singer on his - imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill scenery.--Princely Castle and - Gardens of the Garzoni Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of - Ilex.--Endless bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese - Mansi.--Return to Lucca. - - -Lucca, Sept. 25, 1780. - -You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots -where the arbutus flourishes; from whence I may catch a glimpse of the -distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass, -like Palmerin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of -grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I -have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the visits, dinners, -conversazioni, and glories of the town, and only go thither in an -evening, just time enough for the grand march which precedes -Pacchierotti in Quinto Fabio. Sometimes he accompanies me in my -excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall -ruin their Opera, by leading him such extravagant rambles amongst the -mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds and showers. One -day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; for the next, away -we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so late in the evening, that a -cold and hoarseness were the consequence. - -The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime -ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had -committed. Had the safety of their mighty state depended upon this -imprudent excursion, they could not have vociferated with greater -violence. You know I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very -nearly got into a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations -of the Gonfalonier and all his council upon my head by openly declaring -our intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and -absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities. -These terrible threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a -tour of about thirty miles upon the high lands, and visited a variety -of castles and palaces. - -The Conte Nobili, a noble Lucchese, born in Flanders and educated at -Paris, was our conductor. He possesses great elegance of imagination, -and a degree of sensibility rarely met with. The way did not appear -tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by light clouds, and a -soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered with shrubs and -olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted with so deep a -blue, that I began to think the azure so prevalent in Velvet Breughel’s -landscapes is hardly exaggerated. - -After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we -began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; a great many -loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, -which continued, turning and winding through this wilderness, till it -opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted -groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzoni, on the -very side of a precipice. - -Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies -extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of -spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, strikes for the first -time with the effect of enchantment. Two large marble basins, with -jets-d’eau, seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from the -extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with cedar and ilex, and -cut into terraces. - -Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic enclosure, we passed -through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an endless flight of -steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the -trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and -lighted up the green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling the -waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and -sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams -issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal -by their thick branches a pavilion with baths. Above arises a colossal -statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting from the -precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, on which -I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arching over my head, fell, -without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below. - -I could hardly prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess; which -the fragrance of bay and orange, maintained by constant showers, -rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a -dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken, -is suffered to grow as wild as it pleases. This grove is suspended on -the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a boundless wood of -olives, and forms, by its willowy colour, a striking contrast with the -deep verdure of its base. - -After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue, -bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty -feet high. This led us to the palace, which was soon run over. Then, -mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with -myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most -powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a -continued bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit. These -arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I fell upon the -clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the north, unused to -such luxuriance: one of those Goths, Gray so poetically describes, who - - Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose, - And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows. - -I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and -observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the -glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only -every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom -prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day. - -But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon -forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to -the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable -brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies a pastoral -hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide vineyards and -fields of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte Nobili -conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very comfortable -dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied the richest wines of -Constantia to exceed it. - -Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble -walks and trickling rivulets, we took coffee and loitered till sunset. -It was then time to return, as the mists were beginning to rise from the -valleys. The calm and silence of evening threw us into our reveries. We -went pacing along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without -hearing any sound but their steps. - -Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti -coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The - Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed to - Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of the Fanale. - - -Leghorn, October 2nd, 1780. - -This morning we set out for Pisa. No sooner had we passed the highly -cultivated garden-grounds about Lucca than we found ourselves in narrow -roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising -high above our carriage and waving their leaves in the air. Through the -openings which sometimes intervened we discovered a variety of hillocks -clothed with shrubs, ruined towers looking out of the bushes, not one -without a romantic tale attending it. - -This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa -rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in -Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before the -Duomo, which stands insulated in a vast green area, and is perhaps the -most curious edifice my eyes ever viewed. Do not ask of what shape or -architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great is the confusion -of ornaments. The dome gives the mass an oriental appearance, which -helped to bewilder me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but -little thought they existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as -perfectly awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular -edifice distinct from the church and right opposite its principal -entrance, crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of -cupolas. - -Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some -moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of -porphyry and of the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the -rest of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest -mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by Michael -Angelo Buonarotti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We -examined them with due attention, and then walked down the nave and -remarked the striking effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective -through the bronze portals, which you know, I suppose, are covered with -relievos of the finest workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide -open, and we passed between them to the baptistery, where stands an -alabaster font, constructed after the primitive ritual and exquisitely -wrought. - -Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the area in -which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic tabernacle above -the entrance, rising from the level turf and preserving a neat straw -colour, appear as fresh as if built within the present century. Our -guide unlocking the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an -oblong quadrangle, which encloses the sacred earth of Jerusalem, -conveyed hither about the period of the crusades, the days of Pisanese -prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none -are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is entirely composed of -tombs with slabs, smoothly laid and covered with monumental -inscriptions. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble -and glistening in the sun, support the arcade of the cloister, which is -carved with innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly -Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from -Dante’s rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries, -attributed to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccaccio -mentions in his Decamerone. - -Beneath, along the base of the columns, are placed, to my no small -surprise, rows of pagan sarcophagi; I could not have supposed the -Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such -consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty other -contradictory ornaments. - -I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty -times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some odd -novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of _giallo antico_, -that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I only mention -to identify the precise point of view), and looking through the -filigreed tracery of the arches observed the domes of the cathedral, -cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the -leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in -Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are airy, the -pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an exotic look in the -whole scene, that without any violent effort of fancy one might imagine -one’s self in fairy land. Every object is new, every ornament original; -the mixture of antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the -vagaries of the prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of -returning, to hear visionary music and commune with sprites, for I shall -never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a theatre. - -The heat was so powerful that all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their -wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets, -except five camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden -walls and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We were -obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, before we -reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought after, and when I had -swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began not to think quite so much of -the deserts of Africa, as the heat and the camels had induced me to do a -moment ago. - -Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Leghorn through a wild tract of -forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in some -places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the desire of -walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling -through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and -chesnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the -prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs. - -Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was -sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses as in the month of May. I -felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and was -greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in the fullest -and most luxuriant bloom. The softness of the air, the sound of the -distant surges, the evening gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted -the tumult of my spirits, and I experienced the calm of my infant hours. -I lay down in the open turf-walks between the shrubberies, and during a -few moments had forgotten every care; but when I began to enquire into -my happiness, I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I love -most, in situations they would have warmly admired, and without them -these pleasant lawns and woodlands looked pleasant in vain. - -We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanale began to -lift itself above the horizon--the very tower you have so often -mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships out -at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception in our -northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales from -the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the port and sat -on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that broke amongst them. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - The Mole at Leghorn.--Coast scattered over with - Watch-towers.--Branches of rare Coral unexpectedly acquired. - - -October 3rd, 1780. - -I went, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as soon as the sun -began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no stranger to; -therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble of saying anything -about it, except that the port which it embraces is no longer crowded. -Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only three, and those consist -chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look as poor and tattered as their -masters. Not much attention did I bestow upon such objects, but, taking -my seat at the extremity of the quay, surveyed the smooth plains of -ocean, the coast scattered over with watchtowers, and the rocky isle of -Gorgona, emerging from the morning mists, which still lingered upon the -horizon. - -Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train of -ideas before my imagination, which pleased your own upon beholding it, -an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, -stepped out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, presented -himself before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed dripping a few -moments before he pronounced a syllable, and when he began his -discourse, I was in doubt whether I should not have moved off in a -hurry, there was something so wan and singular in his countenance. -Except this being, no other was visible for a quarter of a mile at -least. I knew not what strange adventure I might be upon the point of -commencing, or what message I was to expect from the submarine -divinities. However, after all my conjectures, the figure turned out to -be no other than an old fisherman, who having picked up a few branches -of the rarest species of coral, offered them to sale. I eagerly made the -purchase, and thought myself a favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me -to acquire, with such facility, some of his most beautiful ornaments. - -My bargain thus expeditiously concluded, I ran along the quay with my -basket of coral, and, taking boat, was rowed back to the gate of the -port. The carriage waited there; I shut myself up in the grateful shade -of green blinds, and was driven away at a rate that favoured my -impatience. We bowled smoothly over the lawns described in my last -letter, amongst myrtles in flower, that would have done honour to the -island of Juan Fernandez. - -Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the Campo -Santo, but hurried on to Lucca, and threw the whole idle town into a -stare by my speedy return. - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures by - Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt shown by the Austrians to - the memory of the House of Medici.--Evening visit to the Garden of - Boboli.--The Opera.--Miserable singing.--A Neapolitan Duchess. - - -Florence, October 5th, 1780. - -It was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. We had all -the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important -republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, the -atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which we -were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after us. - -Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and shaking -till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then proceeded so -slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late in the evening, and -took possession of an apartment over the Arno, which being swollen with -rains roared like a mountain torrent. Throwing open my windows, I viewed -its agitated course by the light of the moon, half concealed in stormy -clouds, which hung above the fortress of the Belvedere. I sat -contemplating the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights of -Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst which a -convent is situated, till the moon sank into the darkest quarter of the -sky, and a bell began to toll. Its mournful sound filled me with gloomy -recollections. I closed the casements, and read till midnight some -dismal memoir of conspiracies and assassinations, Guelphs and -Ghibelines, the black story of ancient Florence. - - -October 6th. - -Every cloud was dispersed when I arose, and the purity and transparence -of the æther added new charms to the picturesque eminences around. I -felt quite revived by this exhilarating prospect, and walked in the -splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath the famous gallery, then -to an antient castle, raised in the days of the Republic, which fronts -the grand piazza. Colossal statues and trophies badly carved in the -true spirit of the antique, are placed before it. On one side a -fountain, clung round with antick figures of bronze, by John of Bologna. -On the other, three lofty pointed arches, and under one of them the -Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini. - -Having examined some groups of sculptures by Baccio Bandinelli and other -mighty artists, I entered the court of the castle, dark and deep, as if -hewn out of a rock, surrounded by a vaulted arcade covered with -arabesque ornaments and supported by pillars almost as uncouthly -designed as those of Persepolis. In the midst appears a marble fount -with an image of bronze, that looks quite strange and cabalistic. I -leaned against it to look up to the summits of the walls, which rise to -a vast height, from whence springs a slender tower. Above, in the -apartments of the castle, are still preserved numbers of curious -cabinets, tables of inlaid gems, and a thousand rarities, collected by -the house of Medici, and not yet entirely frittered away and disposed of -by public sale. - -It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of contempt -which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those illustrious patrons of -the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate, they affect to despise as a -race of merchants whose example it would be abasing their dignity to -follow. - -I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness of -the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. That duty -over, I dined in peace and solitude, and repaired, as evening drew on, -to the thickets of Boboli. - -What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! A -purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested with -saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that clothed -their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended the terraces of -the garden. - -After traversing many long dusky alleys, I reached the opening on the -brow of the hill, and seating myself under the statue of Ceres, took a -sketch of the huge mountainous cupola of the Duomo, the adjoining lovely -tower and one more massive in its neighbourhood, built not improbably in -the style of ancient Etruria. Beyond this historic group of buildings a -plain stretches itself far and wide, most richly studded with villas -and gardens, and groves of pine and olive, quite to the feet of the -mountains. - -Having marked the sun’s going down and all the soothing effects cast by -his declining rays on every object, I went through a plat of vines to a -favourite haunt of mine:--a little garden of the most fragrant roses, -with a spring under a rustic arch of grotto-work fringed with ivy. -Thousands of fish inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering species -which comes from China. This golden nation were leaping after insects as -I stood gazing upon the deep clear water, listening to the drops that -trickle from the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of a green alley, -you discover an oval basin, and in the midst of it an antique statue -full of that graceful languor so peculiarly Grecian. - -Whilst I was musing on the margin of the spring (for I returned to it -after casting a look upon the sculpture), the moon rose above the tufted -foliage of the terraces, which I descended by several flights of steps, -with marble balustrades crowned by vases of aloes. - -It was now seven o’clock, and all the world were going to my Lord T----’s, who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, with stuffed -birds, alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; but to say -truth, neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal of -slopping and sipping of tea going forward, and many dawdlers assembled. - -As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, and -conduct you to the Opera, which is really a striking spectacle. The -first soprano put my patience to severe proof, during the few minutes I -attended. You never beheld such a porpoise. If these animals were to -sing, I should conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how -often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of Quinto -Fabio. Everybody seemed as well contented as if there were no such thing -as good singing in the world, except a Neapolitan duchess who delighted -me by her vivacity. We took our fill of maledictions, and went home -equally pleased with each other for having mutually execrated both -singers and audience. - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend one - of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from its brow.--Chapel - designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of a Princess.--The - christening.--Another evening visit in the woods of Boboli. - - -October 22nd, 1780. - -They say the air is worse this year at Rome than ever, and that it would -be madness to go thither during its malign influence. This was very bad -news indeed to one heartily tired of Florence, at least of its society. -Merciful powers! what a set harbour within its walls! * * * You may -imagine I do not take vehement delight in this company, though very -ingenious, praiseworthy, &c. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every -morning; and there grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, twisting -round a pine, upon whose branches I sit for hours. - -In the afternoon I am irresistibly attracted to the thickets of Boboli. -The other evening, however, I varied my walks, and ascended one of those -pleasant hills celebrated by Dante, which rise in the vicinity of the -city, and command a variegated scene of towers, villas, cottages, and -gardens. On the right, as you stand upon the brow, appears Fiesole with -its turrets and white houses, covering a rocky mount to the left, the -Val d’Arno lost in the haze of the horizon. A Franciscan convent stands -on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in antient cypresses, which -hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much of so gay a view. The -paved ascent leading up to their abode receives also a shade from the -cypresses which border it. Beneath this venerable avenue, crosses with -inscriptions are placed at certain distances, to mark the various -moments of Christ’s passion; as when fainting under his burden he halted -to repose himself, or when he met his afflicted mother. - -Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed by M. A. -Buonarotti; further on, an antient church, encrusted with white marble, -porphyry, and verd antique. The interior presents a crowded assemblage -of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements and inlaid work without end. -The high altar is placed in a semicircular recess, which, like the apsis -of the church at Torcello, glitters with barbaric paintings on a gold -ground, and receives a fervid glow of light from five windows, filled up -with transparent marble clouded like tortoiseshell. A smooth polished -staircase leads to this mysterious place: another brought me to a -subterraneous chapel, supported by confused groups of variegated -pillars, just visible by the glimmer of lamps. - -Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which terminate -in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect preservation, but -totally deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill up the quadrangle, -whose walls are hung with superstitious pictures most singularly -fancied. The Jesuits were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem -to have had great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness -delighted me. - -Next day I was engaged by a very opposite scene, though much against my -will. Her Royal Highness the Grand Duchess having produced a princess in -the night, everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was -carried, along with the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and -ladies, to see the christening. After the Grand Duke had talked -politics for some time, the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown -open. Trumpets flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began -the ceremony at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk -pavilion, with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, though it was -noon-day, shone in every corner of the apartments. Two rows of pages, -gorgeously accoutred, and holding enormous torches, stood on each side -his Royal Highness, and made him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to -the sound of an indifferent band of music, though led by Nardini. The -poor old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint-like, led the Te -Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest followed him with thoughtless -expedition. - -The ceremony being despatched, (for his Royal Highness was in a mighty -fidget to shrink back into his beloved obscurity,) the crowd dispersed, -and I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord T----’s. - -Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself once more into the woods of -Boboli, and remained till it was night in their recesses. Really this -garden is enough to bewilder an enthusiastic spirit; there is something -so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of cypresses. When I -had mused for many an interesting hour amongst them, I emerged into the -orangery before the palace, which overlooks the largest district of the -town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads up to it, -certain bright lights glancing about the cupola of the Duomo and the -points of the highest towers. At first I thought them meteors, or those -illusive fires which often dance before the eye of my imagination; but -soon I was convinced of their reality; for in a few minutes the lantern -of the cathedral was lighted up by agents really invisible; whilst a -stream of torches ran along the battlements of the old castle which I -mentioned in a former letter. - -I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, my pleasure was -greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to rejoice -the hearts of his Royal Highness’s loyal subjects, and bonfires blazing -in every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every denomination -drove me quickly to the theatre; but that was all glitter and glare. No -taste, no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, and rat’s-tail candles. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of Pine.--Vast - Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception at the Convent.--Wild - Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cell.--Conversation with - the holy Fathers.--Legendary Tales.--The consecrated Cleft.--The - Romitorio.--Extensive View of the Val d’Arno.--Return to Florence. - - -October 23rd, 1780. - -Do you recollect our evening rambles last year, in the valley at F----, -under the hill of pines? I remember we often fancied the scene like -Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever an occasion offered, to visit its deep -retirements. I had put off the execution of this pilgrimage from day to -day till the warm weather was gone; and the Florentines declared I -should be frozen if I attempted it. Everybody stared last night at the -Opera when I told them I was going to bury myself in fallen leaves, and -hear no music but their rustlings. - -Mr. ---- was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and -nothingness of Florence; so we finally determined upon our expedition, -and mounting our horses, set out this morning, happily without any -company but the spirit which led us along. We had need of inspiration, -since nothing else, I think, would have tempted us over such dreary, -uninteresting hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary -olive is their principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part of the -country, seems in a withering decrepit state, and may not unaptly be -compared to “an old woman clothed in grey.” However, we did not suffer -the prospect to damp our enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for -Valombrosa. - -About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some oats, -and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren waste, -scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than I cared -for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my portion. -Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I reached down a few -purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, -and amused myself very pleasantly with them till the horses had -finished their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. We met with -nothing but rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as -half inclined us to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet amongst -the number of our evils. - -At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind blow -sharply from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of -groves of pine. A paved path leads across them, quite darkened by -boughs, which meeting over our heads cast a gloom and a chilness below -that would have stopped the proceedings of reasonable mortals, and sent -them to bask in the plain; but, being not so easily discomfited, we -threw ourselves boldly into the forest. It presented that boundless -confusion of tall straight stems I am so fond of, and exhaled a fresh -aromatic odour that revived my spirits. - -The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we -galloped on, and entered a vast amphitheatre of lawns and meadows -surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. The steep cliffs and -mountains which guard this retired valley are clothed with beech to -their very summits; and on their slopes, whose smoothness and verdure -equal our English pastures, were dispersed large flocks of sheep. The -herbage, moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never -been known to fade; thus, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by -the heats of summer, these upland meadows retain the freshness of -spring. I regretted not having visited them sooner, as autumn had -already made great havock amongst the foliage. Showers of leaves blew -full in our faces as we rode towards the convent, placed at an extremity -of the vale and sheltered by firs and chesnuts towering one above -another. - -Whilst we were alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and -received us into the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, -and tables spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six -overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed by the sleekness and rosy hue -of their countenances not totally to have despised this mortal -existence. - -My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order about -me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in his -pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; yet to -avoid this was scarcely within the circle of possibility. All dinner, -therefore, we endured an infinity of nonsensical questions; but as soon -as that was over, I lost no time in repairing to the lawns and forests. -The fathers made a shift to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly -as they were able, but were soon distanced. - -Now I found myself at liberty, and pursued a narrow path overhung by -rock, with bushy chesnuts starting from the crevices. This led me into -wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with moss: several -were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus had his -cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, listening to -the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed. The dry leaves chased -each other down the steeps on the edge of the torrents with hollow -rustlings, whilst the solemn wave of the forests above most perfectly -answered the idea I had formed of Valombrosa, - - ----where the Etrurian shades - High overarch’d embower. - -The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton to move -across his favourite valley, when the fathers arrived puffing and -blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of. - -“You have missed the way,” cried the youngest; “the hermitage, with the -fine picture by Andrèa del Sarto, which all the English admire, is on -the opposite side of the wood: there! don’t you see it on the point of -the cliff?” - -“Yes, yes,” said I a little peevishly; “I wonder the devil has not -pushed it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick.” - -“Satan,” answered the old Pagod very dryly, “is full of malice; but -whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth to flow near the -hermitage is freed from his illusions.” - -“Are they so?” replied I with a sanctified accent, “then I pray thee -conduct me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters.” - -The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, “This is nothing -more than a heretic’s whim.” - -The senior set forwards with greater piety, and began some legendary -tales of the kind which my soul loveth. He pointed to a chasm in the -cliff, round which we were winding by a spiral path, where Gualbertus -used to sleep, and, turning himself towards the west, see a long -succession of saints and martyrs sweeping athwart the sky, and gilding -the clouds with far brighter splendours than the setting sun. Here he -rested till his last hour, when the bells of the convent beneath (which -till that moment would have made dogs howl had there been any within its -precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all the country -around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with singular -devotion, when, behold! light dawned, cherubim appeared, and birds -chirped although it was midnight. “Alas! alas! what would I not give to -witness such a spectacle, and read my prayer-book by the effulgence of -opening heaven!” - -However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the consecrated -cleft and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very penitential -couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world below, which lay -this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red and angry through -misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea. - -Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my -quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a snug -little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andrèa del -Sarto, which I should have examined more minutely had not the wild and -mountainous forest scenery possessed my whole attention. I just stayed -to taste the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran -eagerly down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and -entered a lawn of the smoothest turf grazed by sheep. Beyond this -opening rises a second, hemmed in with thickets; and still higher, a -third, whence a forest of young pines spires up into a lofty theatre -terminated by peaks, half concealed by a thick mantle of beech tinged -with ruddy brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking upward -to the sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my orisons to the -genius of the place, and prayed that I might once more return into its -bosom, and be permitted to bring you along with me, for surely such -meads, such groves, were formed for our enjoyment! - -This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of the -pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of -precipices, beneath whose base the whole Val d’Arno lies expanded. I -listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw wreaths of smoke rising -from the cottages, and viewed a vast tract of grey barren country, which -evening rendered still more desolate, bounded by the black mountain of -Radicofani. Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and -forest, the groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with -fiery red, for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, -produced this effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was -gloomy, and the rest of the prospect of a melancholy blue. - -Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the -eminences, and heard the sullen toll of a bell. The young boys of the -seminary were moving in a body to their dark enclosure, all dressed in -black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to ask them whether -the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; but a tall -spectre of a priest drove them along like a herd, and presently, the -gates opening, I saw them no more. - -The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the intervals -of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable screech owl to depress -my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to meet the -fathers, who came out to show me to my room, and entertain me with -various gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper appeared. - -Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; and -afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully upon -our viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was determined to -make a full stop at the organ, one of the most harmonious I ever played -upon; but placed in a deep recess, feebly lighted by lamps, not -calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. The monks, who had all -crowded into the loft in expectation of brisk jigs and lively overtures, -soon retired upon hearing a strain ten times more sorrowful than that to -which they were accustomed. I did not lament their departure, but played -on till our horses came to the gate. We mounted, wound back through the -grove of pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the -steeps, and, gaining the plains, galloped in a few hours to Florence. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Cathedral at Sienna.--A vaulted Chamber.--Leave Sienna.--Mountains - round Radicofani.--Hunting Palace of the Grand Dukes.--A grim - fraternity of Cats.--Dreary Apartment. - - -Sienna, October 27th, 1780. - -Here my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I got up much -earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder that our holy -ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, scrape it into tabernacles, -and chisel it into scripture stories. It would have cost them almost as -little trouble as the building in question, which, by many of the -Italian devotees to a purer style of architecture, is esteemed a -masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate absurdity. The front, -encrusted with alabaster, is worked into a million of fretted arches and -puzzling ornaments. There are statues without number, and relievos -without end or meaning. - -The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the roof -blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from it; and -a cornice running above the principal arcade, composed entirely of -bustos representing the whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from the -first Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan they say figured -amongst them, between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the -year 1600, when some authors have asserted she was turned out, at the -instance of Clement the Eighth, to make room for Zacharias the First. - -I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this -singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The pavement -demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent variety of -histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed somewhat in the style of -that hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the walls of our -ancestors. Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, -supported by polished pillars of granite, rising from lions’ backs, -which serve as pedestals. In every corner of the place some glittering -chapel or other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi -family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect to design -and execution; but it wants effect, as seeming out of place in this -chaos of caprice and finery. - -From the church I entered a vaulted chamber, erected by the -Piccoliminis, filled with missals most exquisitely illuminated. The -paintings in fresco on the walls are rather barbarous, though executed -after the designs of the mighty Raphael; but then we must remember, he -had but just escaped from Pietro Perugino. - -Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, after -being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that ever pretended to be -made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough mountains round -Radicofani, about seven o’clock on a cold and dismal evening. Up we -toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length the inn upon its -summit. My heart sank when I entered a vast range of apartments, with -high black raftered roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of the -Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having risen, every -door began to shake, and every board substituted for a window to -clatter, as if the severe power who dwells on the topmost peak of -Radicofani, according to its village mythologists, was about to visit -his abode. - -My only spell to keep him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, -whose charitable gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker -flow. Yet, for some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to the right, -now to the left, up at the dark beams, and down the long passages, where -the pavement, broken up in several places, and earth newly strewn about, -seemed to indicate that something horrid was concealed below. - -A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in these -dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical scene of -a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing to explore them, -I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth which glowed with -embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly venturing to go to sleep -lest I should be suddenly roused from it by I know not what terrible -initiation into the mysteries of the place. - -Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just -mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted upon -their moving off faster than they had entered, and was surprised, when -midnight came, to hear nothing more than their doleful mewings echoed by -the hollow walls and arches. - - - - -LETTER XIX. - - Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal - territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of the Lake of - Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte Fiascone.--Inhabited - Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations of Rome. - - -Radicofani, October 28th, 1780. - -I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at -Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not -an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have -more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I -was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind, -and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and cornfields at -a distance. - -Near Aquapendente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs mantled with -chesnut copses and tufted ilex, the country grew varied and picturesque. -St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of -Bolsena, whose woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed -some of them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and -grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles -crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as Polemberg and -Bamboche introduce in their paintings. - -Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint -rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon -the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte -Fiascone. It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems -full of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with -fires. We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a -subterraneous people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we -drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; -and when we entered the town, all was total darkness. - -To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and -tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial -city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs -of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from -Monte Cavallo. - - - - -LETTER XX. - - Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the spacious - plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient - splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherds’ - huts.--Wretched policy of the Papal Government.--Distant view of - Rome.--Sensations on entering the City.--The Pope returning from - Vespers.--St Peter’s Colonnade.--Interior of the - Church.--Reveries.--A visionary scheme.--The Pantheon. - - -Rome, October 29th, 1780. - -We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; its waters -of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests catching the -rays of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the cupola of St. -Peter’s upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. Nothing but a sea -of vapours was visible. - -At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show -themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of -empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, and -on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the view. It -was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, -and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander -theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for -encampments: levels for martial games, and room for that variety of -roads and causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. How many -triumphant legions have trodden these pavements! how many captive kings! -What throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface! -savage animals dragged from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors -of Indian princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore -the favour of the senate! - -During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such -illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is passed -away: silence and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over -with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only -objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed a few -black ill-favoured sheep straggling by the way’s side, near a ruined -sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would have sacrificed to the -Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were the only -sounds which broke the general stillness, and observed the shepherds’ -huts on its banks, propped up with broken pedestals and marble friezes. -I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and -began writing upon the sand and murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps the -dead listened to me from their narrow cells. The living I can answer -for: they were far enough removed. - -You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a -scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted -how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no blue -firmament to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants to -irritate my nerves and lend at least a momentary animation. Heath and a -greyish kind of moss are the sole vegetation which covers this endless -wilderness. Every slope is strewed with the relics of a happier period; -trunks of trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, -skulls and coins, are frequently dug up together. - -I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you any -novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly the environs of Rome -were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives to make -its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not just as -wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of celebrating? All is -doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as well -attempt proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay -dispersed around me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate -than another. Very likely the poor cottager, under whose roof I reposed, -is happier than the luxurious Roman upon the remains of whose palace, -perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet that Roman flourished in the purple -days of the empire, when all was wealth and splendour, triumph and -exultation. - -I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and -meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and -drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the days of -the Cæsars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. “When -you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome,” said one of -the postilions: up we dragged; no city appeared. “From the next,” cried -out a second; and so on from height to height did they amuse my -expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, -till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with green pastures on -their summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here -and there a white house, built in the antique style, with open porticos, -that received a faint gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the -clouds and tinting the meads below. Now domes and towers began to -discover themselves in the valley, and St. Peter’s to rise above the -magnificent roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene -extended, till, winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our -view. - -Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending -the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an -avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, which leads to -the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the domes, the obelisk, the -long perspective of streets and palaces opening beyond, all glowing with -the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, -my favourite hour, surrounded by such objects. You can fancy me -ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which supports -Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St. Peter’s in -performance of my vow. - -I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers. Trumpets -flourishing, and a troop of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. Angelo. -Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved on till the -full sweep of St. Peter’s colonnade opened upon me. The edifice appears -to have been raised within the year, such is its freshness and -preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the beautiful -symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent, though irregular -courts of the Vatican towering over the colonnade, till, the sun sinking -behind the dome, I ran up the steps and entered the grand portal, which -was on the very point of being closed. - -I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred twilight -concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not distinguish any -particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the whole. No damp air or -fœtid exhalation offended me. The perfume of incense was not yet -entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. I heard a door close with -the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished some faint -whisperings, but am ignorant whence they came. Several hundred lamps -twinkled round the high altar, quite lost in the immensity of the pile. -No other light disturbed my reveries but the dying glow still visible -through the western windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself -alone in this vast temple at so late an hour. Do you think I quitted it -without some revelation? - -It was almost eight o’clock before I issued forth, and, pausing a few -minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: then -traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa Medici, -under which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which my zeal and -exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited. - -October 30th. - -Immediately after breakfast I repaired again to St. Peter’s, which even -exceeded the height of my expectations. I could hardly quit it. I wish -his Holiness would allow me to erect a little tabernacle within this -glorious temple. I should desire no other prospect during the winter; no -other sky than the vast arches glowing with golden ornaments, so lofty -as to lose all glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be -perfectly contented, unless I could obtain another tabernacle for you. -Thus established, we would take our evening walks on the field of -marble; for is not the pavement vast enough for the extravagance of the -appellation? Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend -the cupola, and look down on our little encampment below. At night I -should wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, -and so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light. Music should not -be wanting: at one time to breathe in the subterraneous chapels, at -another to echo through the dome. - -The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, no -cardinals: God forbid! We would have all the space to ourselves, and to -beings of our own visionary persuasion. - -I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with contriving -plans for its embellishment, as scarcely to have spirits left for the -Pantheon, which I visited late in the evening, and entered with a -reverence approaching to superstition. The whiteness of the dome -offended me, for, alas! this venerable temple has been whitewashed. I -slunk into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into -antiquity; then opened them again, tried to persuade myself the Pagan -gods were in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed -at coming to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with his -cross, and St. Agnes with her lamb, &c. Then I paced disconsolately into -the portico, which shows the name of Agrippa on its pediment. Fixed for -a few minutes against a Corinthian column, I lamented that no pontiff -arrived with victims and aruspices, of whom I might enquire, what, in -the name of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for you -must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think -Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their -representations of this venerable structure. I left the column, walked -to the centre of the temple, and there remained motionless as a statue. -Some architects have celebrated the effect of light from the opening -above, and pretended it to be distributed in such a manner as to give -those, who walk beneath, the appearance of mystic beings streaming with -radiance. If that were the case! I appeared, to be sure, a luminous -figure, and never stood I more in need of something to enliven me. - -My spirits were not mended upon returning home. I had expected a heap of -Venetian letters, but could not discover one. I had received no -intelligence from England for many a tedious day; and for aught I can -tell to the contrary, you may have been dead these three weeks. I think -I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, which I try lustily to persuade -myself communicate with the lower world; and perhaps I may find some -letter there from you lying upon a broken sarcophagus, dated from the -realms of Night, and giving an account of your descent into her bosom. -Yet, I pray continually, notwithstanding my curiosity to learn what -passes in the dark regions beyond the tomb, that you will remain a few -years longer on our planet; for what would become of me should I lose -sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you can, and let us -have the delight of dozing a little more of this poor existence away -together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant dreams. - - - - -LETTER XXI. - - Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of - Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical associations.--The - Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain - Groves.--Rock of Circe.--The Appian Way.--Arrive at Mola di - Gaieta.--Beautiful prospect.--A Deluge.--Enter Naples by night, - during a fearful Storm.--Clear Morning.--View from my - window.--Courtly Mob at the Palace.--The Presence Chamber.--The - King and his Courtiers.--Party at the House of Sir W. H.--Grand - Illumination at the Theatre of St. Carlo.--Marchesi. - - -November 1st, 1780. - -Though you find I am not yet snatched away from the earth, according to -my last night’s bodings, I was far too restless and dispirited to -deliver my recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a mighty day of gala at -Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving Rome, and indulging my -roving disposition. After spending my morning at St. Peter’s, we set off -about four o’clock, and drove by the Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, -whose monks were all busied in preparing the skeletons of their order, -to figure by torch-light in the evening. St. John’s of Lateran -astonished me. I could not help walking several times round the obelisk, -and admiring the noble space in which the palace is erected, and the -extensive scene of towers and aqueducts discovered from the platform in -front. - -We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains which -surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of walls and -arches, seldom interrupted, stretch across them. Sometimes, indeed, a -withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of every blast that sweeps -the champagne, breaks their uniformity. Between the aqueducts to the -left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of ploughed lands, dark and -desolate, are visible, the corn not being yet sprung up. On the right, -several groups of ruined fanes and sepulchres diversify the levels, with -here and there a garden or woody enclosure. Such objects are scattered -over the landscape, which towards the horizon bulges into gentle -ascents, and, rising by degrees, swells at length into a chain of -mountains, which received the pale gleams of the sun setting in watery -clouds. - -By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, -sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate them, -for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and began -breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and recollecting -a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we advanced, not -without fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall asleep when -arrived there. - -November 2nd. - -I arose at day-break, and, forgetting fevers and mortalities, ran into a -level meadow without the town, whilst the horses were putting to the -carriage. Why should I calumniate the pearly transparent air? it seemed -at least purer than any I had before inhaled. Being perfectly alone, and -not discovering any trace of the neighbouring city, I fancied myself -existing in the ancient days of Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his -woods before the evening. But, instead of those shrill clamours which -used to echo through the thickets when Pan joined with mortals in the -chase, I heard the rumbling of our carriage, and the cursing of -postilions. Mounting a horse I flew before them, and seemed to catch -inspiration from the breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of -precipices, in whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed -their life; then to the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliff, so -famous for Circe’s incantations, and the whole line of coasts, which was -once covered with her forests. - -Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sun-beams began to shoot -athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their -shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dew-drops. The sea brightened, and -the Circean promontory soon glowed with purple. All day we kept winding -through this enchanted country. Towards evening Terracina appeared -before us, in a bold romantic scite; house above house, and turret -looking over turret, on the steeps of a mountain, enclosed with -mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined terraces of a palace; one of -those, perhaps, which the luxurious Romans inhabited during the summer, -when so free and lofty an exposition (the sea below, with its gales and -murmurs) must have been delightful. Groves of orange and citron hang on -the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, whose bright red flowers, -illuminated by the sun, had a magic splendour. A palm-tree, growing on -the highest crag, adds not a little to its singular appearance. Being -the largest I had yet seen, and clustered with fruit, I climbed up the -rocks to take a sketch of it; and looking down upon the beach and glassy -plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial: - - O nemus! O fontes! solidumque madentis arenæ - Littus, et æquoreis splendidus Anxur aquis! - -Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the rock of Circe, -which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the continent by a -very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an island. The roar of the -waves lashing the base of the precipices, might still be thought the -howl of savage monsters; but where are those woods which shaded the dome -of the goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, and but a few, -are the sole remains of this once impenetrable vegetation; yet even -these I longed to visit, such was my predilection for the spot. - -Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, by -a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian Way, we drove under an -enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch tower, and -cut into arsenals and magazines. Day closed just as we got beyond it, -and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw fires afar off in -the bay; some twinkling on the coast, others upon the waves, and heard -the murmur of voices; for the night was still and solemn, like that of -Cajetas’s funeral. I looked anxiously on a sea, where the heroes of the -Odyssey and Æneid had sailed to fulfil their mystic destinies. - -Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Gaeta. The boats were just coming -in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought such fish -as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged Æneas and Ulysses. - - -November 3rd. - -The morning was soft, but hazy. I walked in a grove of orange trees, -white with blossoms, and at the same time glowing with fruit. The spot -sloped pleasantly toward the sea, and here I loitered till the horses -were ready, then set off on the Appian, between hedges of myrtle and -aloes. We observed a variety of towns, with battlemented walls and -ancient turrets, crowning the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by -wilds, and rude uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds -its peaceful course through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with -the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the rocks I have just -mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil’s panegyric -of Italy into my mind: - - Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis - Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros. - -As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds -covered the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain as -floated the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius disappeared -just after we had discovered it. At four o’clock darkness universally -prevailed, except when a livid glare of lightning presented momentary -glimpses of the bay and mountains. We lighted torches, and forded -several torrents almost at the hazard of our lives. The plains of Aversa -were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not half so much -scared as their masters, who ran about raving and ranting like Indians -during the eclipse of the moon. I knew Vesuvius had often put their -courage to proof, but little thought of an inundation occasioning such -commotions. - -For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead of -entering Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores by -moonlight--instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged with -people and animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror through -dark streets totally deserted, every creature being shut up in their -houses, and we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing torrents, and the -fall of fragments beaten down by their violence. Our inn, like every -other habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while -before we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. All night the -waves roared round the rocky foundations of a fortress beneath my -windows, and the lightning played clear in my eyes. - - -November 4th. - -Peace was restored to nature in the morning, but every mouth was full of -the dreadful accidents which had happened in the night. The sky was -cloudless when I awoke, and such was the transparence of the atmosphere -that I could clearly discern the rocks, and even some white buildings on -the island of Caprea, though at the distance of thirty miles. A large -window fronts my bed, and its casements being thrown open, gives me a -vast prospect of ocean uninterrupted, except by the peaks of Caprea and -the Cape of Sorento. I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level -waters, and listening to the confused voices of the fishermen, passing -and repassing in light skiffs, which came and disappeared in an instant. - -Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till -then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams,) I leaned -over its rails and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue æther, -with all that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered about its -base; then looked down into the street, deep below, thronged with people -in holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. The -shrubby, variegated shore of Posilipo drew my attention to the opposite -side of the bay. It was on those very rocks, under those tall pines, -Sannazaro was wont to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, composing -his marine eclogues. It is there he still sleeps; and I wished to have -gone immediately and strewed coral over his tomb, but I was obliged to -check my impatience and hurry to the palace in form and gala. - -A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with -lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but bows and salutations -were going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, -and which a multitude of prelates and friars were ascending with awkward -pomposity. I jostled along to the presence chamber, where his Majesty -was dining alone in a circular enclosure of fine clothes and smirking -faces. The moment he had finished, twenty long necks were poked forth, -and it was a glorious struggle amongst some of the most decorated who -first should kiss his hand, the great business of the day. Everybody -pressed forward to the best of their abilities. His Majesty seemed to -eye nothing but the end of his nose, which is doubtless a capital -object. - -Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ in -opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be -happy, in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, and a -pigeon to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is better -contented than Solomon in all his glory, and will never discover, like -that sapient sovereign, that all is vanity and vexation of spirit. - -His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and differ -little in the character of their physiognomies from the most savage -nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, had it not -been for their dresses and European finery. - -You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, to -return to Sir W. H.’s, where an interesting group of lovely women, -literati, and artists, were assembled--Gagliani and Cyrillo, Aprile, -Milico, and Deamicis--the determined Santo Marco, and the more -nymph-like modest-looking, though not less dangerous, Belmonte. Gagliani -happened to be in full story, and vied with his countryman Polichinello, -not only in gesticulation and loquacity, but in the excessive -licentiousness of his narrations. He was proceeding beyond all bounds of -decency and decorum, at least according to English notions, when Lady -H.[8] sat down to the pianoforte. Her plaintive modulations breathed a -far different language. No performer that ever I heard produced such -soothing effects; they seemed the emanations of a pure, uncontaminated -mind, at peace with itself and benevolently desirous of diffusing that -happy tranquillity around it; these were modes a Grecian legislature -would have encouraged to further the triumph over vice of the most -amiable virtue. - -The evening was passing swiftly away, and I had almost forgotten there -was a grand illumination at the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a -number of dark streets, we suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose -seven rows of boxes one above the other blazed with tapers. I never -beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so pompous a decoration as covered -the stage. Marchesi was singing in the midst of all these splendours -some of the poorest music imaginable, with the clearest and most -triumphant voice, perhaps, in the universe. - -It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or -discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its size -and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of swarthy ill-favoured -beings, in gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The -court being present, a tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment -his Majesty withdrew (which great event took place at the beginning of -the second act) every tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and -hubbub filled up the rest of the entertainment. - - - - -LETTER XXII. - - View of the coast of Posilipo.--Virgil’s tomb.--Superstition of the - Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.--Aërial situation.--A grand - scene. - - -November 6th, 1780. - -Till to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea covered with mists, -and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I have not yet been able to -mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in order to take a general view -of the town. - -At length a bright gleam of sunshine summoned me to the broad terrace of -Chiaja, which commands the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew -towards it, and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) soon -reached the entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst the -crags that lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and vines grow -luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and its fresh yellow colours, -variegated with ivy, have a beautiful effect. To the right, a grove of -pines spring from the highest pinnacles: on the left, bay and chesnut -conceal the tomb of Virgil placed on the summit of a cliff which impends -over the opening of the grotto, and is fringed with vegetation. Beneath -are several wide apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to -caverns sixty or seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who -were employed in quarrying, made a strange but not absolutely -unharmonious din with their tools and their voices. - -Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone -immediately beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking -down the long and solemn perspective terminated by a speck of gray -uncertain light, venerated a work which some old chroniclers have -imagined as ancient as the Trojan war. It was here the mysterious race -of the Cimmerians performed their infernal rites, and it was this -excavation perhaps which led to their abode. - -The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical an -origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have been -formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Addison very justly -observes, is better known at Naples in his magical character than as -the author of the Æneid. This strange infatuation most probably arose -from the vicinity of the tomb in which his ashes are supposed to have -been deposited; and which, according to popular tradition, was guarded -by those very spirits who assisted in constructing the cave. But -whatever may have given rise to these ideas, certain it is they were not -confined to the lower ranks alone. King Robert,[9] a wise though far -from poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great -solemnity to the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the grotto, very -gravely asked him, whether he did not adopt the general belief, and -conclude this stupendous passage derived its origin from Virgil’s -powerful incantations? The answer, I think, may easily be conjectured. - -When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and -trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I -retreated without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path -which led me, after some windings and turnings, along the brink of the -precipice, across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks which -shelters Virgil’s tomb, most venerably mossed over and more than half -concealed by bushes and vegetation. The clown who conducted me remained -aloof at awful distance, whilst I sat commercing with the manes of my -beloved poet, or straggled about the shrubbery which hangs directly -above the mouth of the grot. - -Advancing to the edge of the rock, I saw crowds of people and carriages, -diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the mountain and -disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the windings of its road. -Clambering high above the cavern, I hazarded my neck on the top of one -of the pines, and looked contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that -were so busily moving to and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have -wished, but the sea-breezes fanned me in my aërial situation, which -commanded the grand sweep of the bay, varied by convents, palaces, and -gardens mixed with huge masses of rock and crowned by the stately -buildings of the Carthusians and fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering -blue sea to this perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom and -Vesuvius breathing forth a white column of smoke into the æther, and you -will then have a scene upon which I gazed with delight, for more than -an hour, almost forgetting that I was perched upon the head of a pine -with nothing but a frail branch to uphold me. However, I descended -alive, as Virgil’s genii, I am resolved to believe, were my protectors. - - - - -LETTER XXIII. - - A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross the - bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous - reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The Dead Lake.--Wild - scene.--Beautiful meadow. Uncouth rocks.--An unfathomable - gulph.--Sadness induced by the wild appearance of the - place.--Conversation with a recluse.--Her fearful - narration.--Melancholy evening. - - -November 8th, 1780. - -This morning I awoke in the glow of sunshine--the air blew fresh and -fragrant--never did I feel more elastic and enlivened. A brisker flow of -spirits than I had for many a day experienced, animated me with a desire -of rambling about the shore of Baii, and creeping into caverns and -subterraneous chambers. Off I set along the Chiaja, and up strange paths -which impend over the grotto of Posilipo, amongst the thickets mentioned -a letter or two ago; for in my present buoyant humour I disdained -ordinary roads, and would take paths and ways of my own. A society of -kids did not understand what I meant by intruding upon their precipices; -and scrambling away, scattered sand and fragments upon the good people -that were trudging along the pavement below. - -I went on from pine to pine and thicket to thicket, upon the brink of -rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir William had -recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that had passed in the -neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over which we were -travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat down by us on -little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, scarcely knowing which -way caprice had led me. My mind was full of the tales of the place, and -glowed with a vehement desire of exploring the world beyond the grot. I -longed to ascend the promontory of Misenus, and follow the same dusky -route down which the Sibyl conducted Æneas. - -With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses -opened to views of the Baian sea with the little isles of Niscita and -Lazaretto, lifting themselves out of the waters. Procita and Ischia -appeared at a distance invested with that purple bloom so inexpressibly -beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I hailed the -prospect, and blessed the transparent air that gave me life and vigour -to run down the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain to -Pozzuoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue ocean, by the -remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, adorned the bay in Roman -ages, crowned by vast lengths of slender pillars; pavilions at their -extremities and taper cypresses spiring above their balustrades: this -character of villa occurs very frequently in the paintings of -Herculaneum. - -We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast near some -fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced -into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with -shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant -foliage, chesnut, bay and ilex, that shelter the ruins of sepulchral -chambers. No parties of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I -had all the land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into -its recesses, with the importance of a discoverer. What a variety of -narrow paths, between banks and shades, did I wildly follow! my savage -laughing loud at my odd gestures and useless activity. He wondered I did -not scrape the ground for medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, -like other inquisitive young travellers that had gone before me. - -After ascending some time, I followed him into the wondrous[10] -reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, when anchored in -the neighbouring bay. A noise of trickling waters prevailed throughout -this grand labyrinth of solid vaults and arches, that had almost lulled -me to sleep as I rested myself on the celandine which carpets the floor; -but curiosity urging me forward, I gained the upper air; walked amongst -woods a few minutes, and then into grots and dismal excavations (prisons -they call them) which began to weary me. - -After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at last -reached an eminence that commanded the Mare Morto, and Elysian fields -trembling with reeds and poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem of -eternal tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants seemed -fixed on its margin, their shadows reflected on the water. Turning from -the lake I espied a rock at about a league distant, whose summit was -clad with verdure, and finding this to be the promontory of Misenus, I -immediately set my face to that quarter. - -We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured -generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, -however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by -neat hedges of cane, and a variety of herbs and pulses and Indian corn -seemed to flourish in the inclosures. Insensibly we began to leave the -cultivated lands behind us, and to lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, -to all appearance, no mortal had ever trodden. Here were no paths, no -inclosures; a primeval rudeness characterized the whole scene. - -After forcing our way about a mile, through glades of shrubs and briars, -we entered a lawn-like opening at the base of the cliff which takes its -name from Misenus. The poets of the Augustan age would have celebrated -such a meadow with the warmest raptures, and peopled its green expanse -with all the sylvan demi-gods of their beautiful mythology. Here were -springs issuing from rocks of pumice, and grassy hillocks partially -concealed by thickets of bay. - - Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato - Candida purpureis mista papaveribus. - -But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead of -reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts dissolved -in attaining its summit. The sun darted upon my head, I wished to avoid -its immediate influence; no tree was near; the pleasant valley lay below -at a considerable depth, and it was a long way to descend to it. Looking -round and round, I spied something like a hut, under a crag on the edge -of a dark fissure. Might I avail myself of its covert? My conductor -answered in the affirmative, and added that it was inhabited by a good -old woman, who never refused a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to -refresh a weary traveller. - -Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of -stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help deviating a -few steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth rocks which rose -frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their appearance was truly -formidable, bristled over with sharp-spired dwarf aloes, such as -Lucifer himself might be supposed to have sown. Indeed I knew not -whether I was not approaching some gate that leads to his abode, as I -drew near a gulph (the fissure lately mentioned) and heard the deep -hollow murmurs of the gusts which were imprisoned below. The savage, my -guide, shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old woman of my coming. -I felt strangely, and stared around me, and but half liked my situation. - -In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. “You are -welcome,” said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect than I had -heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, and she seemed of -a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys. My savage -treated her with peculiar deference. She had just given him some bread, -with which he retired to a respectful distance bowing to the earth. I -caught the mode, and was very obsequious, thinking myself on the point -of experiencing a witch’s influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight -into the volume of futurity. She smiled at my agitation and kept -beckoning me into the cottage. - -“Now,” thought I to myself, “I am upon the verge of an adventure.” I saw -nothing, however, but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen -bowls, and a wooden crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: this my -hostess perceived, and immediately kindling a fire in an inner part of -the hovel, brought out some warm water to refresh my feet, and set some -milk and chesnuts before me. This patriarchal attention was by no means -indifferent after my tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to the door -which fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the sea, of a deep -cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also was darkening apace with -storms. Sadness came over me like a cloud, and I looked up to the old -woman for consolation. - -“And you too are sorrowful, young stranger,” said she, “that come from -the gay world! how must I feel, who pass year after year in these lonely -mountains?” I answered that the weather affected me, and my spirits were -exhausted by the walk. - -All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy -earnestness that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine myself -in some fatal habitation, - - Where more is meant than meets the ear. - -“Your features,” said she, “are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate -young person, who, in this retirement....” The tears began to fall as -she pronounced these words; my curiosity was fired. “Tell me,” continued -I, “what you mean; who was this youth for whom you are so interested? -and why did he seclude himself in this wild region? Your kindness to him -might no doubt have alleviated, in some measure, the horrors of the -place; but may God defend me from passing the night near such a gulph! I -would not trust myself in a despairing moment.” - -“It is,” said she, “a place of horrors. I tremble to relate what has -happened on this very spot; but your manner interests me, and though I -am little given to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips concerning -the secrets of yonder fatal chasm. - -“I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better days. In -my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few years they withered -away; no matter by what accident. I am not going to talk much of -myself. Have patience a few moments! A series of unfortunate events -reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this desert, where, from -rearing goats and making their milk into cheese, by a different method -than is common in the Neapolitan state, I have, for about thirty years, -prolonged a sorrowful existence. My silent grief and constant retirement -had made me appear to some a saint, and to others a sorceress. The -slight knowledge I have of plants has been exaggerated, and, some years -back, the hours I gave up to prayer, and the recollection of former -friends, lost to me for ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and -the ignorant. But soon I sank into obscurity: my little recipes were -disregarded, and you are the first stranger who, for these twelve months -past, has visited my abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever -remained inviolate! - -“It is now three-and-twenty years,” and she looked upon some characters -cut on the planks of the cottage, “since I was sitting by moonlight, -under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes fixed on the ocean, my -mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard a step, and -starting up, a figure stood before me. It was a young man, in a rich -habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the utmost terror. I -knew not what to think of this sudden apparition. ‘Mother,’ said he with -faltering accents, ‘let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not up -to those who thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take all, all!’ - -“Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; the youth -stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the rocks; the -wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. I took courage, -and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. ‘Oh! thank you, thank -you!’ answered he, and pressed my hand. He shared my scanty provision. - -“Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day) sleep closed my -eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was set, but I heard my -unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed him not. Morning dawned, -and he was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled out of his closed -eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan cheeks. I had been too -wretched myself not to respect the sorrows of another: neglecting -therefore my accustomed occupations, I drove away the flies that buzzed -around his temples. His breast heaved high with sighs, and he cried -loudly in his sleep for mercy. - -“The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like one that -had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face with his -hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. ‘Oh, mother!’ he -exclaimed, ‘I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the cause of -innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!’ My blood curdled to -hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and behold such agonising -sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked the sting of conscience -urging him to disclose what I am going to relate. - -“It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and luxuries of -Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with a thousand -lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to improve. -Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object of his desires, -he passed his first years in roving from one extravagance to another, -but as yet there was no crime in his caprices. - -“At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make their idol -the slave of an unbridled passion. He had a friend, who from his birth -had been devoted to his interest, and placed all his confidence in him. -This friend loved to distraction a young creature, the most graceful of -her sex (as I can witness), and she returned his affection. In the -exultation of his heart he showed her to the wretch whose tale I am -about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She too caught fire at his -glances. They languished--they consumed away--they conversed, and his -persuasive language finished what his guilty glances had begun. - -“Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal a thought, -however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth in the tenderest -manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him so loathsome, that -unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, he menaced the -life of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. Coolness and -moderation were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he found himself -treated with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to the heart, he -wandered about for some time like one entranced. Meanwhile the nuptials -were preparing, and the lovely girl he had perverted found ways to let -him know she was about to be torn from his embraces. - -“He raved like a demoniac, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a -malignant wretch who sold the most inveterate poisons. These he infused -into a cup of pure iced water and presented to his friend, and to his -own too fond confiding father, who soon after they had drunk the fatal -potion began evidently to pine away. He marked the progress of their -dissolution with a horrid firmness, he let the moment pass beyond which -all antidotes were vain. His friend expired; and the young criminal, -though he beheld the dews of death hang on his parent’s forehead, yet -stretched not forth his hand. In a short space the miserable father -breathed his last, whilst his son was sitting aloof in the same chamber. - -“The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, the pangs of -remorse. His agitations passed not unnoticed. He was watched: suspicions -beginning to unfold he took alarm, and one evening escaped; but not -without previously informing the partner of his crimes which way he -intended to flee. Several pursued; but the inscrutable will of -Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed to behold the effects -of celestial vengeance. - -“Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from the youth. -I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. One whole -day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather than be near -an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now survey that slender -form and those flowing tresses, which had interested me before so much -in his behalf! - -“No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than sullenly -retiring to yonder rock he sat careless of the sun and scorching winds; -for it was now the summer solstice. He was equally heedless of the -unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were augmented; and I -meditated several times to abandon my hovel and fly to the next village; -but a power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified my -mind. - -“I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called at the -wicket of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I arose, and saw a -peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely muffled up, and -casting her eyes on the ground. My heart misgave me. I thought this was -the very maid who had been the cause of such atrocious wickedness. Nor -were my conjectures ill-founded. Regardless of the clown who stood by in -stupid astonishment, she fell to the earth and bathed my hand with -tears. Her trembling lips with difficulty enquired after the youth; and, -as she spoke, a glow of conscious guilt lightened up her pale -countenance. - -“The full recollection of her lover’s crimes shot through my memory. I -was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but, she clung to my -garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so full of misery, -that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity of the cliff -where the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the sea. His eye was -rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon the object for whose sake -he had doomed himself to perdition. - -“Far be it from me to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness with -which they sought each other’s embraces. I indignantly turned my head -away; and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving -in my mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision for -my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned homewards by the light -of the moon which shone serenely in the heavens. Almost the first object -her beams discovered was the guilty maid sustaining the head of her -lover, who had fainted through weakness and want of nourishment. I -fetched some dry bread, and dipping it in milk laid it before them. -Having performed this duty I set open the door of my hut, and retiring -to a neighbouring cavity, there stretched myself on a heap of leaves and -offered my prayers to Heaven. - -“A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into my fancy. The -shadow of leaves that chequered the entrance to the grot, seemed to -assume in my distempered imagination the form of ugly reptiles, and I -repeatedly shook my garments. The flow of the distant surges was -deepened by my apprehensions into distant groans: in a word, I could not -rest; but issuing from the cavern as hastily as my trembling knees would -allow, paced along the edge of the precipice. An unaccountable impulse -would have hurried my steps, yet such was my terror and shivering, that -unable to advance to my hut or retreat to the cavern, I was about to -shield myself from the night in a sandy crevice, when a loud shriek -pierced my ear. My fears had confused me; I was in fact near my hovel -and scarcely three paces from the brink of the cavern: it was thence the -cries proceeded. - -“Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was newly -crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended by one -foot to a branch of juniper that grew several feet down: thus dreadfully -did he hang over the gulph from the branch bending with his weight. His -features were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his -screams became so shrill and terrible that I lost all power of affording -assistance. Fixed, I stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who -incessantly cried out, ‘O God! O Father! save me if there be yet mercy! -save me, or I sink into the abyss!’ - -“I am convinced he did not see me; for not once did he implore my help. -His voice grew faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, the loose thong of -leather, which had entangled itself in the branches by which he hung -suspended, gave way, and he fell into utter darkness. I sank to the -earth in a trance; during which a sound like the rush of pennons -assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was bearing off his soul; -but when I lifted up my eyes nothing stirred; the stillness that -prevailed was awful. - -“The moon hanging low over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I -perceived some one coming down that white cliff you see before you; and -I soon heard the voice of the young woman calling aloud on her guilty -lover. She stopped. She repeated again and again her exclamation; but -there was no reply. Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the path, and -now I saw her on the promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with -her glances every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she flew -to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed the -fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my countenance. I -continued pointing to the chasm; she trembled not; her tears could not -flow; but she divined the meaning. ‘He is lost!’ said she; ‘the earth -has swallowed him! but, as I have shared with him the highest joy, so -will I partake his torments. I will follow: dare not to hinder me.’ - -“Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside me; and, -clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look on the -hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness that told me she -was bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on the -ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover’s temples, -she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, thrust it -into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the last act of despair -and miserable passion, she threw herself, with a furious leap, into the -gulph. - -“To its margin I crawled on my knees, and there did I remain in the most -dreadful darkness; for now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured with -storms, and a tempestuous blast ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick -upon me, and the lightning, in clear and frequent flashes, gave me -terrifying glimpses of yonder accursed chasm. - -“Stranger, dost thou believe in our Redeemer? in his most holy mother? -in the tenets of our faith?” I answered with reverence, but said her -faith and mine were different. “Then,” continued the aged woman, “I will -not declare before a heretic what were the visions of that night of -vengeance!” She paused; I was silent. - -After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she resumed her -narrative. “Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, and it was -late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous clouds. I -was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs began to -brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against me. Then -did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all human beings the -most abject and miserable. How different did I feel myself from those, -fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, and driven for ever from the -morning! - -“Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some grave and -ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, -about the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with every -dreadful particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse concerning -them was expressly stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for -their souls.” - -With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her -singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph to call -my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed to think, from the -paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some gloomy prediction, -and shook his head, when I turned round to bid my old hostess adieu! It -was a melancholy evening, and I could not refrain from tears, whilst, -winding through the defiles of the rocks, the sad scenes which had -passed amongst them recurred to my memory. - -Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I rambled a -few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The last streaks of -light were quivering on the waters when I stepped into the bark, and -wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, some of -whose inhabitants came forth with torches to light us home. - - - - -LETTER XXIV. - - The Tyrol Mountains.--Intense cold.--Delight on beholding human - habitations. - - -Augsburg, 20th January, 1781. - -For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling -in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of pine -through which our route conducted us. We were often obliged to travel by -moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful aspect of the Tyrol -mountains buried in snow. - -I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though prompted -by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should interrupt -the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these boundless -solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, for aught I -know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed on without -perceiving the slightest hint of their existence. - -I never before felt so much pleasure by discovering a smoke rising from -a cottage, or hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not have -supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or three fur -caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their concealments. I wish -you had been with me, exploring this savage region: wrapped up in our -bear-skins, we should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, -perhaps, into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the -heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by dwarfs, -and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad scheme to sleep away five -or six years to come, since every hour affairs are growing more and more -turbulent. Well, let them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the -shades of our thickets. - - - - -SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. - - - - -The following letters, written during a second excursion, are added, on -account of their affinity to some of the preceding. - - - - -LETTER I. - - First day of Summer.--A dismal Plain.--Gloomy entrance to - Cologne.--Labyrinth of hideous edifices.--Hotel of Der Heilige - Geist. - - -Cologne, 28th May, 1782. - -This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses blow, -butterflies are on the wing, and I have spirits enough to write to you. -We have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like the slough -of Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal plain, -apparently boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and then a -blue meteor glided along the morass which lay before us. - -After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour’s time -discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and crowned -by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and knocked; no one answered. -We repeated our knocks; the gate returned a hollow sound; the horses -coughed, their riders blew their horns. At length the bars fell, and we -entered--by what means I am ignorant, for no human being appeared. - -A labyrinth of narrow winding streets, dark as the vaults of a -cathedral, opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least twenty -minutes, between lofty mansions with grated windows and strange -galleries projecting one over another, from which depended innumerable -uncouth figures and crosses, in iron-work, swinging to and fro with the -wind. At the end of this gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen -feet wide, I am certain; the houses still loftier than those just -mentioned, the windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not -what else to call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights -glimmering in the highest stories, and arches on the right and left, -which seemed to lead into retired courts and deeper darkness. - -Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as I -hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went out -at the same arch through which we had entered. This procession seemed at -first very mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our -postilions, who confessed they had lost their way. A council was held -amongst them in form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of -hideous edifices, habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a -creature stirred; though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all -the vaults and arches. - -Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of a -casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an -apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Enter the Tyrol.--Picturesque scenery.--Village of - Nasseriet.--World of boughs.--Forest huts.--Floral abundance. - - -Inspruck, June 4, 1782. - -No sooner had we passed Fuessen than we entered the Tyrol, a country of -picturesque wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I delight -in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs gushed out on every side, -overhung by luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day was mild, though -overcast, and a soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, above which rise -mountains that bear plains of snow into the clouds. - -At night we lay at Nasseriet, a village buried amongst savage -promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into -smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, -whose delicate foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. -Flights of birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran -delighted into this world of boughs, whilst Cozens sat down to draw the -huts which are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover -themselves amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner. - -These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas of -pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from whence -they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with flowers. -Gentians predominated, brighter than ultramarine; here and there -auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed upon tufts of -ranunculus. Bushes of phillyrea were very frequent, the sun shining full -on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away swiftly in these pleasant -groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, a tower of leaves and -branches. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore of - Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its deserted - appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. - - -Padua, June 14th, 1782. - -Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding -Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever man -was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the Brenta, -into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. -Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and -palaces, seemed flying after each other, so rapid was our motion. - -After a few hours’ confinement between close steeps, the scene opened to -the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely time to look -before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, the Lagunes -tinted like the opal, and the islands of a glowing flame-colour. The -mountains of the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy grey, -and innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their blackness. -The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up in the tempestuous -clouds. - -In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising out -of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable bells to my -ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, and recognised -those solemn palaces, with their lofty arcades and gloomy arches, -beneath which I had so often sat, the scene of many a strange adventure. - -The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town -appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the Place of -St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and forwards, -opposite the Ducal Palace, by moon-light. They are building a spacious -quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San -Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following the -wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening to the -waters dashing against marble steps. - -I closed my evening at my friend Madame de Rosenberg’s, where I met -Cesarotti, who read to us some of the most affecting passages in his -Fingal, with all the intensity of a poet, thoroughly persuaded that into -his own bosom the very soul of Ossian had been transfused. - -Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season of -June, and the canals much ruffled; but I was determined to visit the -Lido once more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines in the -garden of the Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, -which was very poetically buffeted by the waves. - -Traversing the desert of locusts,[11] I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged -into its agitated waters. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to -such a degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to -thread its labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber -and oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandise, the perfume -of coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics -sitting cross-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars of -Constantinople. - -It is certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series of eastern -ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark’s a mosque, and -the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of arabesque saloons, -embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Excursion to Mirabello.--Beauty of the road thither.--Madame de - R.’s wild-looking niece.--A comfortable Monk’s nest. - - -Padua, June 19th, 1782. - -The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony’s bells in full chime. A -shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and -grateful, that Madame de R. and myself determined to seize the -opportunity and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti had -inhabited, situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles from -Padua. - -Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, overhung -by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found myself in the -midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with clover, and shaded -by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I gathered the fruit, and -grew cooler and happier every instant. - -We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where my friend’s little -wild-looking niece pitched her pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs -of Bertoni’s Armida. That enchantress might have raised her palace in -this situation; and, had I been Rinaldo, I certainly should not very -soon have abandoned it. - -After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which sprang -from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and villas; tall -cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out of a sea of -corn and vine. - -Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant -Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards -Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chesnuts, where the -peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, to a mountain, crowned -by a circular grove of fir and cypress. - -In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; -perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, a -thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream of. - -Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the grove, -and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to pass the -night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant prospect. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Rome.--Stroll to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.--A grand - Rinfresco.--The Egyptian Lionesses.--Illuminations. - - -Rome, 29th June 1782. - -It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you know -how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This evening, -instead of parading the Corso with the puppets in blue and silver coats, -and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal this, and -dotting my head to Abbè t’other, I strolled to the Coliseo and scrambled -amongst its arches. Then bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I -passed under the Arch of Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite -deserted, the world, thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in -coffee-houses, or staring at a few painted boards, patched up before the -Colonna palace, where, by the by, to-night is a grand _rinfresco_ for -all the dolls and doll-fanciers of Rome. I heard their buzz at a -distance; that was enough for me! - -Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, -and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. This -animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured out to me -the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled Romulus and -his brother. - -About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet on -the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of the Villa Medici; before, -lies roof beyond roof, and dome beyond dome: these are dimly discovered; -but do not you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling with -illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, that -structure of fire must be visionary. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - The Negroni Garden.--Its solitary and antique appearance.--Stately - Porticos of the Lateran.--Dreary Scene. - - -Rome, 30th June 1782. - -As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but -finding it haunted by pompous people, nay, even by the Spanish -Ambassador, and several red-legged Cardinals, I moved off to the Negroni -garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets of jasmine, and -wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress totally neglected, -and almost impassable through the luxuriance of the vegetation; on every -side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and altars sacred to the -Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain the Manes must love. -The air was filled with the murmurs of water, trickling down basins of -porphyry, and losing itself amongst overgrown weeds and grasses. - -Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and a -strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria Maggiore; -no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who delights in -sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with its high and -reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths of Dioclesian, -which peep over one of its walls. - -At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately -porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. Some priests -jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my shoulder through the -portals, into the portico. Night began to fill it with darkness. Upon -turning round, the melancholy waste of the Campagna met my eyes, and I -wished to go home, but had scarcely the power. A pressure, like that I -have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the pavement. - -I was thus in a manner forced to dwell upon the dreary scene, the long -line of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome vapours, -rising like blue mists from the plains, had affected me. I know not how -it was; but I never experienced such strange, such chilling terrors. -About ten o’clock, thank God, the spell dissolved, I found my limbs at -liberty, and returned home. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Naples.--Portici.--The King’s Pagliaro and Garden.--Description of - that pleasant spot. - - -Naples, July 8th, 1782. - -The sea-breezes restore me to life. I set the heat of mid-day at -defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. I passed -yesterday at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing and pleasant, -invited us at an early hour into the open air. We drove, in an uncovered -chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other unroyal carriage except Sir -W.’s being allowed to enter its alleys, we breathed a fresh air, -untainted by dust or garlick. Every now and then, amidst wild bushes of -ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, sometimes a -fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit undisturbed, -contemplating the blue glittering bay. - -The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, whose -white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the most -magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as one -passes by; such is their size and dignity. In the midst of the thickets -stands the King’s Pagliaro, in a small garden, with hedges of luxuriant -jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as much as nature -pleases. - -The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I entered -this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the days of fairy -pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. Bright tiles compose -the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. In the middle of the -room you see a table spread with a beautiful Persian carpet; at one end, -four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King and his favourites -repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble basin. Mount a little -staircase, and you find yourself in another apartment, formed by the -roof, which being entirely composed of glistening straw, casts that -comfortable yellow glow I admire. From the windows you look into the -garden, not flourished over with parterres, but divided into plats of -fragrant herbs and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, -or basin of the purest water. - -These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, and -so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of other -vegetables, as fresh as in our green England. - - - - -GRANDE CHARTREUSE. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the Village of - Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance of the - Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--Dark Woods and - Caverns.--Crosses.--Inscriptions. - - -Gray’s sublime Ode on the Grande Chartreuse had sunk so deeply into my -spirit that I could not rest in peace on the banks of the Leman Lake -till I had visited the scene from whence he caught inspiration. I longed -to penetrate these sacred precincts, to hear the language of their -falling waters, and throw myself into the gloom of their forests: no -object of a worldly nature did I allow to divert my thoughts, neither -the baths of Aix, nor the habitation of the too indulgent Madame de -Warens (held so holy by Rousseau’s worshippers), nor the magnificent -road cut by Charles Emanuel of Savoy through the heart of a rocky -mountain. All these points of attraction, so interesting to general -travellers, were lost upon me, so totally was I absorbed in the -anticipation of the pilgrimage I had undertaken. - -Mr. Lettice, who shared all my sentiments of admiration for Gray, and -eagerness to explore the region he had described in his short and -masterly letters with such energy, felt the same indifference as myself -to commonplace scenery. - -The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached Les Echelles, a -miserable village, with but few of its chimneys smoking, situated at the -base of a mountain, round which had gathered a concourse of red and -greyish clouds. I was heartily glad to leave these forlorn and wretched -quarters at the first dawn of the next day. We were now obliged to -abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded towards the mountains, -which, with the valleys between them, form what is called the Desert of -the Carthusians. - -In an hour’s time we were drawing near, and could discern the opening of -a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which rose lofty -peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We could now distinguish -the roar of torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, issuing from -dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was somewhat startled. -I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and it was not without a -degree of unwillingness that I left the gay pastures and enlivening -sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy and disturbed region. How -dreadful, thought I, must be the despair of those, who enter it, never -to return! - -But after the first impression was worn away all my curiosity redoubled; -and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, we made such -good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain were soon left -far behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the torrent, whose -agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had inspired. Into the -midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our -horses, and, when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means -displeased to have passed them. - -We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks -diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, and the -sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began to ascend -towards the entrance of the desert, marked by two pinnacles of rock far -above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. Every moment we -approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had alarmed us; and, -suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several mills and -forges, with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over the -torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in the precipices; on -one side of which I perceived our road winding along, till it was -stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock above one of the forges was -hollowed into the shape of a round tower, of no great size, but -resembling very much an altar in figure; and, what added greatly to the -grandeur of the object, was a livid flame continually palpitating upon -it, which the gloom of the valley rendered perfectly discernible. - -The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become so -narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too well -acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, therefore, -I walked towards the edge of the great fell, and there, leaning on a -fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, where the waters -were hurled along over broken pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. -Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, -frowning on the brows of the mountains. - -It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, and -penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I believe, -uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the dashing of the -wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of the forges, that -what I said was luckily undistinguishable. - -I was not yet, however, within the consecrated enclosure, and therefore -not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced in silence up -the path, which led to the great portal. When we arrived before it, I -rested a moment, and looking against the stout oaken gate, which closed -up the entrance to this unknown region, felt at my heart a certain awe, -that brought to my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient days -going to be admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries. - -My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly -opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again carefully -closed. - -I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by peaks -of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving downwards -till their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the water, over -which hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. The rocks seemed -crowding upon me, and, by their particular situation, threatened to -obstruct every ray of light; but, notwithstanding the menacing -appearance of the prospect, I still kept following my guide, up a craggy -ascent, partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the trunks of -ancient fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till we came to a -dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over the dell. - -The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents rushing with -additional violence are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; every -object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway between the -base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. The channel of -the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the pale willows and -wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas of those dismal -abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts of -conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was regarding these -regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my eyes to vary the -scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs glistening with the light -of the sun, to emerge from these melancholy forests. - -On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a moment -its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written VIA COELI. The cliffs -being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the edge of the -precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the rocks, in which -several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. Here we reposed an -instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, piercing the thickets -and gilding the waters that bubbled from the rock, over which hung -another cross, inscribed with this short sentence, which the situation -rendered wonderfully pathetic, O SPES UNICA! the fervent exclamation of -some wretch disgusted with the world whose only consolation was found in -this retirement. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Thick forest of beech trees.--Fearful glimpses of the - torrent.--Throne of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of the - Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched - aisle.--Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.--The Secretary and - Procurator.--Conversation with them.--A walk amongst the cloisters - and galleries.--Pictures of different Convents of the order.--Grand - Hall adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life. - - -We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech trees, -that screened in some measure the precipices on which they grew, -catching however every instant terrifying glimpses of the torrent below. -Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and falling over the -mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to join the great -torrent, athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering -bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing over to -his hermitage, that just peeped above the woody labyrinths on the -opposite shore. - -Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech -trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, which -he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received his -revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy ground, -for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of character as -would alone be sufficient to impress the idea. - -Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty -arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, -mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before two -cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue our -road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently -precipitating themselves from the woods and lashing the base of the -mountains, mossed over with a dark sea green. - -In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered my -prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, -that I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the -second portal beheld with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the throne of -Moses. - -It was now about ten o’clock, and my guide assured me I should soon -discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, and -continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into another -gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we entered again -into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted by ridges of -cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the farther end of this -inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered turrets of the -Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow of the hill; beyond -them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents itself, terminated by -spires of rock and promontories lost amongst the clouds. - -The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and all the -scenes of horror and confusion I had passed were succeeded by a sacred -and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand sensations I -despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the convent with as -much awe as some novice or candidate newly arrived to solicit the holy -retirement of the order. - -As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost any -other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst the -porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court watered by -two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, characterized by a -noble simplicity. - -The interior portal opening discovered an arched aisle, extending till -the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily -distributed between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just -sufficient to distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. We -had scarcely set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to issue -from an arch, about half way down, and passing in a long succession from -their chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, and -dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone in the aisle. - -The father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with -great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more -pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so -common in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent -questions, he called one of the lay brothers, who live in the convent -under less severe restrictions than the fathers, whom they serve, and -ordering him to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square -hall with casement windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous -chimney, whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, -on each side of which were two doors that communicated with the neat -little cells destined for our bed-chambers. - -Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means -unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang -which summoned him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set -before us the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left us -at full liberty to examine our chambers. - -The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light to -enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened by the -gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable air, -which even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers descended -with great violence, the lay brother and another of his companions were -placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the finest -linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined a number -of portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, they -called us to a dinner widely different from what might have been -expected in so dreary a situation. Our attendant friar was helping us to -some Burgundy, of the happiest growth and vintage, when the coadjutor -returned, accompanied by two other fathers, the secretary and -procurator, whom he presented to us. You would have been both charmed -and surprised with the cheerful resignation that appeared in their -countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation. - -The coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his -countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and there -was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which could not -fail to interest. There were moments when the recollection of some past -event seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy that rendered it -still more affecting. I should suspect he formerly possessed a great -share of natural vivacity (something of it being still, indeed, apparent -in his more unguarded moments); but this spirit is almost entirely -subdued by the penitence and mortification of the order. - -The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in the -political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive -correspondence these fathers preserve with the three hundred and sixty -subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all those countries where the -court of Rome still maintains its influence. - -In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions -about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had belonged -to their order; and principally that of Witham, which they had learnt to -be now in my possession. - -The secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere -these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the sake -of St. Hugo, their canonized prior. I replied greatly to his -satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour of St. Bruno, and the -holy prior of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly delighted -with the conversation, and made me promise to remain some days with -them. I readily complied with their request, and, continuing in the same -strain, that had so agreeably affected their ears, was soon presented -with the works of St. Bruno, whom I so zealously admired. - -After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort of -subjects for about an hour, the coadjutor proposed a walk amongst the -cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any longer -excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, which -brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of -pictures, representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was -now in the capital of the order, where the general resides, and from -whence he issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute -the superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the -wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest districts -of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held annually -under him, a week or two after Easter. - -This reverend father died about ten days before our arrival: a week ago -they elected the prior of the Carthusian convent at Paris in his room, -and two fathers were now on their route to apprise him of their choice, -and to salute him General of the Carthusians. During this interregnum -the coadjutor holds the first rank in the temporal, and the grand -vicaire in the spiritual affairs of the order; both of which are very -extensive. - -If I may judge from the representation of the different convents, which -adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for the -singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the landscapes -which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody island; -and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, struck -me as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries hung -formerly in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, together -with the old convent. The list only remains, with but a very few written -particulars concerning them. - -Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the -descriptions the coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery and -entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps burning -before them, on each side of a lofty portal. This opened into a grand -coved hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life, and -the portraits of the generals of the order, since the year of the great -founder’s death (1085) to the present time. Under these portraits are -the stalls for the superiors, who assist at the grand convocation. In -front, appears the general’s throne; above, hangs a representation of -the canonized Bruno, crowned with stars. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the - Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The great - Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to St. - Bruno.--Retire to my cell.--Strange writings of St. Bruno.--Sketch - of his Life.--Appalling occurrence.--Vision of the Bishop of - Grenoble.--First institution of the Carthusian order.--Death of St. - Bruno.--His translation. - - -The coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked round -on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been drawing -near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of Bruno’s -miracles, pourtrayed on the lower panels of the hall. We left that room -to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in the roof) that brought -us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, from which branched off two -others, joining a fourth of the same most extraordinary dimensions. Vast -ranges of slender pillars extend round the different courts of the -edifice, many of which are thrown into gardens belonging to particular -cells. - -We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much civility, -walked before us through a little corridor that looked on his garden, -showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave of the -coadjutor to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us depart with -concern. Nature has given this poor monk very considerable talents for -painting. He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in a manner -that discovers great facility of execution; but he is not allowed to -exercise his pencil on any other subject, lest he should be amused; and -amusement in this severe order is a crime. He had so subdued, so -mortified an appearance, that I was not sorry to hear the bell, which -summoned the coadjutor to prayers, and prevented my entering any more of -the cells. We continued straying from cloister to cloister, and -wandering along the winding passages and intricate galleries of this -immense edifice, whilst the coadjutor was assisting at vespers. - -In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: no -sound reached my ears but the “minute drops from off the eaves.” I sat -down in a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, from -which I was recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, was -almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that I was -deliberating whether I should not remain with them for ever. - -But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the great -chapel, at which we at length arrived after traversing another labyrinth -of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance appeared quite -gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and owes its -cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of polished -marble) that admits the view of a lovely wood, and allows a full blaze -of light to dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, -in a plain but noble style of architecture. - -The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant us -admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel and -were struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple majesty of -the arched roof, and the mild solemn light equally diffused over every -part of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no glaring pictures disgraced -the sanctity of the place. The high altar, standing distinct from the -walls, which were hung with a rich velvet, was the only object on which -many ornaments were lavished; and, it being a high festival, was -clustered with statues of gold, shrines, and candelabra of the -stateliest shape and most delicate execution. Four of the latter, of a -gigantic size, were placed on the steps; which, together with part of -the inlaid floor within the choir, were spread with beautiful carpets. - -The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, and -pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, produced -a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was visible only by -the feint external light admitted from above, the splendour and dignity -of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I retired a moment from it, and -seating myself in one of the furthermost stalls of the choir, looked -towards it, and fancied the whole structure had risen by “subtle magic,” -like an exhalation. - -Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and -should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive of -disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, and -were prostrating themselves before the steps of the altar. These -venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; which as -the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the sparkling -of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, and the -gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, began to be -visible just as I left the chapel. - -Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich -embroidered vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we -regained the cloister which led to our apartment, where the supper was -ready prepared. We had scarcely finished it, when the coadjutor, and the -fathers who had accompanied us before, returned, and ranging themselves -round the fire, resumed the conversation about St. Bruno. - -Finding me disposed by the wonders I had seen in the day to listen to -things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate the inspirations -they had received from him, and his mysterious apparitions. I was all -attention, respect, and credulity. The old secretary worked himself up -to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much inclined to imagine -he believed in these moments all the marvellous events he related. The -coadjutor being less violent in his pretensions to St. Bruno’s modern -miracles, contented himself with enumerating the noble works he had done -in the days of his fathers, and in the old time before them. - -It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their narrations, -and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, to return to my -cell, where everything invited to repose. I was charmed with the -neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its cabin-like bed, oratory, -and ebony crucifix; in short, every thing it contained; not forgetting -the aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, floored, and -wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had the moon appeared, I could -not have prevailed upon myself to have quitted her till very late; but, -as it happened, I crept into my cabin, and was by “whispering winds soon -lulled asleep.” - -Eight o’clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to my great -sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled in -vapours, and the rain descending with violence. - -After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements -admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the works of St. -Bruno; of all medleys one of the strangest. Allegories without end; a -theologico-natural history of birds, beasts, and fishes; several -chapters on paradise; the delights of solitude; the glory of Solomon’s -temple; the new Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful subjects, full -of the loftiest enthusiasm. The revered author of this strangely -abstruse and mystic volume was certainly a being of no common order, nor -do we find in the wide circle of legendary traditions an event recorded, -better calculated to inspire the utmost degree of religious terror than -that which determined him to the monastic state. - -St. Bruno was of noble descent, and possessed considerable wealth. Not -less remarkable for the qualities of his mind, their assiduous -cultivation obtained for him the chair of master of the great sciences -in the University of Rheims, where he contracted an intimate friendship -with Odo, afterwards Pope Urban II. Though it appears that a very -cheering degree of public approbation, and all the blandishments of a -society highly polished for the period, contributed, not unprofitably -one should think, to fill up his time, always singular, always -visionary, he began early in life to loathe the world, and sigh after -retirement. - -But a most appalling occurrence converted these sighs into the deepest -groans. A man, who had borne the highest character for the exercise of -every virtue, died, and was being carried to the grave. The procession, -of which Bruno formed a part, was moving slowly on, when a low, mournful -sound issued from the bier. The corpse was distinctly seen to lift up -its ghastly countenance, and as distinctly heard to articulate these -words--“_I am summoned to trial._” After an agonizing pause, the same -terrific voice declared--“_I stand before the tribunal._” Some further -moments of amazement and horror having elapsed, the dead body lifted -itself up a third time, and moving its livid lips uttered forth this -dreadful sentence--“_I am condemned by the just judgment of God._” -“Alas! alas!” exclaimed Bruno--“of how little avail are apparent good -works, or the favourable opinion of mankind! - - Ubi fugiam nisi ad te?-- - -Thy mercies alone can save, and it is not in the frivolous and seductive -intercourse of a worldly life those mercies can be obtained.” - -Stricken to the heart by these reflections, he hurried in a fever of -terror and alarm (the sepulchral voice still ringing in his ears) to -Grenoble, of which see one of his dearest friends, the venerable Hugo, -had lately been appointed bishop. - -This saintly prelate soothed the dreadful agitation of his spirits by -relating to him a revelation he had just received in a dream. - -“As I slept,” said Hugo, “methought the desert mountains beyond Grenoble -became suddenly visible in the dead of night by the streaming of seven -lucid stars which hung directly over them. Whilst I remained absorbed in -the contemplation of this wonder, an awful voice seemed to break the -nocturnal silence, declaring their dreary solitudes thy future abode, O -Bruno!--by thee to be consecrated as a retirement for holy men desirous -of holding converse with their God. No shepherd’s pipe shall be heard -within these precincts; no huntsman’s profane feet ever invade their -fastnesses; nor shall woman ascend this mountain, or violate by her -allurements the sacred repose of its inhabitants.” - -Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop of -Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few persons that, -like himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the charms of -society, repaired with them to this spot; and, in the darkest parts of -the forests which shade the most gloomy recesses of the mountains, -founded the first convent of Carthusians, long since destroyed. - -Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of the -most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct reaching -Rome, (where his friend had been lately invested with the papal tiara,) -the whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and entreated Urban to -invite him to Rome. The request of Christ’s vicegerent was not to be -refused; and Bruno quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some of his -disciples behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously the -infant order. - -The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had -weaned himself entirely from worldly affections. - -Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy -metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to -retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking the -wilds of Calabria, there sequestered himself in a lonely hermitage, -calmly expecting his last moments. - -In his death there was no bitterness. A celestial radiance shone around -him even before he closed his eyes upon this frail existence, and many a -venerable witness has testified that the voices of angelic beings were -heard calling him to come and receive his reward; but as the different -accounts of his translation are not essentially varied, it would be -tedious to recite them. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Mystic discourse.--A mountain ramble.--A benevolent Hermit.--Red - light in the northern sky.--Lose my way in the solitary - hills.--Approach of night. - - -I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the writings of this holy -and highly-gifted personage when the dinner appeared, consisting of -everything most delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre -could allow. The good fathers returned as usual before our repast was -half over, and resumed as usual their mystic discourse, looking all the -time rather earnestly into my countenance to observe the sort of effect -their most marvellous narrations produced upon it. - -Our conversation, which was beginning to take a gloomy and serious turn, -was interrupted, I thought very agreeably, by the sudden intrusion of -the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full splendour above -the highest peak of the mountains, and the vapours fleeting by degrees -discovered the woods in all the freshness of their verdure. The pleasure -I received from seeing this new creation rising to view was very lively, -and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their walks did not often -continue longer than the showers, I left my hall. - -Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly -along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the forests, -enjoyed the charms of the prospect inhaled the perfume of the woodlands, -and now turning towards the summits of the precipices that encircled -this sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours they borrowed from -the sun, contrasted by the dark hues of the forest. Now, casting my eyes -below, I suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from one -stream (beset with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. The -purity of the air in these exalted regions, and the lightness of my own -spirits, almost seized me with the idea of treading in that element. - -Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and falling -waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness and -rapidity that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the appearance -of one possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with the scene to -a degree I despair of expressing. - -Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange ideas, -a father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, stopped my -career, and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench erected under -a neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and disordered looks, -fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk near the snows of -the mountains had alarmed me by his sudden appearance. - -The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to -recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity as -his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning in a -few moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into which he let -fall several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable herbs, and -having performed this deed of charity, signified to me by a look, in -which benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little remains of -curiosity were strongly painted, how sorry he was to be restrained by -his vow of silence from enquiring into the cause of my agitation, and -giving me farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose to -carry on the adventure, and suffered him to depart with all his -conjectures unsatisfied. - -No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit than I started up, -and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the edge of a -woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running from the -opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the cliffs, now -but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some time sinking on -our narrow horizon, reflected that it would be madness to bewilder -myself, at so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. Being thus -determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating into the -lovely region before me, and contented myself for some moments with -marking the pale tints of the evening gradually overspreading the -cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of the setting sun. - -But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by a red -light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my notice as I -sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down what appeared to be a -fathomless ravine blackened by the shade of impervious forests, above -which rose majestically the varied peaks and promontories of the -mountains. - -The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next -caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the valley, -when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange fantastic -shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, passed on, like a -solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway between the stream that -watered it below, and the summits of the cliffs on high. - -The tranquillity of the region, the verdure of the lawn, environed by -girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, filled -me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted up my eyes to -the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming with ruddy -light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering over the space -beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews which began to descend, -and the vapours which were rising from every dell, reminded me of the -lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance that I turned -from the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, and traversed -slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over which I had hurried with -such eagerness an hour ago. - -Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I had -passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following a -different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep -valley. Another moment, descending into the hollows between the hillocks -that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I fancied I had -entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment to be lost amongst -the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around. - -As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more -forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; and -whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and on every -side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp which might -indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I flattered myself, -would direct me to the monastery. - -At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, -unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the -gate, the attendant lay-brothers came out with lights, in order to -search for me; scarcely had I joined them, when the Coadjutor and the -Secretary came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their -uneasiness at my long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, where -Mr. Lettice was waiting, with no small degree of impatience; but I found -not a word had been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, -I believe, he strictly kept his vow till the day when the Carthusians -are allowed to speak, and which happened after my departure. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Pastoral Scenery of Valombré.--Ascent of the highest Peak in the - Desert.--Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.--Farewell benediction of - the Fathers. - - -We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a -circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon -gleamed through the casements, and the stars sparkling above the forests -of pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give myself up -entirely to the spectacle they offered. - -The coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through the -windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay-brother, ordered him to -open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not long before -I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from the courts and -cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, ascended -a green knoll, which several ancient pines strongly marked with their -shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted up my eyes -to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered by the -trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on the woods which -fringed their acclivities. - -The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the -torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale blueish haze, -that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky -promontories above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the deepest -azure, innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual clearness from -this elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the -promontories. White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the -moon, that shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves -far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, throwing itself -from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy vales, was mingled with -the blast that blew from the mountains. - -It increased. The forests began to wave, black clouds rose from the -north, and, as they fleeted along, approached the moon, whose light -they shortly extinguished. A moment of darkness succeeded; the gust was -chill and melancholy; it swept along the desert, and then subsiding, the -vapours began to pass away, and the moon returned; the grandeur of the -scene was renewed, and its imposing solemnity was increased by her -presence. Inspiration was in every wind. - -I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains -before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild woods -and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I eagerly -contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his eyes; drank of -the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran to -every pine, whose withered appearance bespoke the most remote antiquity, -and beneath which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn -with vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his institutions. It -was midnight before I returned to the convent and retired to my quiet -chamber, but my imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far -too active, to allow me any rest for some time. - -I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious -blast, which drove open my casement, for it was a troubled and -tempestuous night, and let in the roar of the tempest. In the intervals -of the storm, in those moments when the winds seemed to pause, the faint -sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but were swallowed up the next -instant by the redoubled fury of the gust, which was still increased by -the roar of the waters. - -I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as well -as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, than I -arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll, where I -had stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure -morning air delightfully refreshing: every tree, every shrub, glistened -with dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the fir-trees -on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly into the clear -blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into the valley between the steeps of -wood and the turrets of the convent, and passed the different buildings, -destined for the manufacture of the articles necessary to the fathers; -for nothing is worn or used within this inclosure, which comes from the -profane world. - -Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was so -lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, which I -crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to an eminence, -covered with a hanging wood of beech-trees feathered to the ground, from -whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a -smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed -up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of shrubs, -entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; at one -extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had directed me -to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous group of cattle, -lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with -long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking them. - -The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that -skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, -dappled cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant -with their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and certainly very -singular spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold “milk-maids -singing blithe,” and tripping lightly along with their pails, was not a -little surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures shifted -their trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with what -adroitness they performed their functions, managing their long beards -with a facility and cleanliness equally admirable. - -I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, -before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, -than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down -his pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, -desired me to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, -observing what was going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an -hospitable act, and, quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods, -from whence he returned in a few minutes with some strawberries, very -neatly enveloped in fresh leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, -next invited me to the cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred -the shade of the beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic -herbage, I enjoyed the pastoral character of the scene with all possible -glee. - -Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable gaudy -flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by the -cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs and -forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the -summer hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my -repose in this most delightful of valleys. - -When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I -could converse was the charms of Valombré, for so is this beautifully -wooded region most appropriately called. Notwithstanding the -indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded the -monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, of -conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert. - -Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following his -steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them, -strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, and -dedicated to St. Bruno. - -Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on which -this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed on a -lofty green mountain, from whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a -surprising elevation; and which (owing to the sun’s reflection on a -transparent mist hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary -light. This object was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my -activity, I made the best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and -crumbled fragments of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I came -to the green steeps I had surveyed at a distance. - -These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered -beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bade adieu to summer, and -entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the -mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the -crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot -of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets. - -After taking a few moments’ repose, my guide prepared to clamber amongst -the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was able, till -laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang upon a small -level space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast -desert and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, -the green meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the -barrier of mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant -countries; the plains where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes -of Savoy; amongst which that of Bourget was near enough to discover its -beauties, all glowing with the warm haze of the setting sun. - -My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey, so turning my eyes -from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks, -through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest -greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others -by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs I -had so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon. - -The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in it -till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time I -visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered -large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which with -a surprising variety of other plants carpeted this lovely glen. A -luxuriant vegetation, - - That on the green turf suck’d the honey’d showers, - And purpled all the ground with vernal flowers. - -My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it would -be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures of -the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I was -very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches in -the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. This -prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several -thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every -minute, shortly skreened the green mountain and all the forest from our -sight. A sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning -began to flash from a dark angry cloud that hung over the valleys and -deluged them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear -expanse of æther. - -But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; -so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and, -carefully following my guide (for a false step might have caused my -destruction) wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak -behind, and just as we reached the green mountain which was moistened -with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its -serenity. - -Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, and -soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand -amphitheatre of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond -which appeared the neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, -where we arrived as the moon was beginning to assume her empire. - -I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the day. -The next morning early, I quitted my kind hosts with great reluctance. -The coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to the outward gate, -and there within the solemn circle of the desert bestowed on me their -benediction. - -It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me till -I was an hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their hands on -their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the world, -here was an asylum. - -I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my -road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate in the midst of the -wide world again, it increased. - -We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chambery, and, instead of -going through Aix, passed by Annecy; but nothing in all the route -engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld -the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs. - -I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I -could sit and think of Valombré. - - - - -SALEVE. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.--Pas - d’Echelle.--Moneti.--Bird’s-eye prospects.--Alpine - flowers.--Extensive view from the summit of Saleve.--Youthful - enthusiasm.--Sad realities. - - -I had long wished to revisit the holt of trees so conspicuous on the -summit of Saleve, and set forth this morning to accomplish that purpose. -Brandoin an artist, once the delight of our travelling lords and ladies, -accompanied me. We rode pleasantly and sketchingly along through Carouge -to the base of the mountain, taking views every now and then of -picturesque stumps and cottages. - -At length, after a good deal of lackadaisical loitering on the banks of -the Arve, we reached a sort of goats’ path, leading to some steps cut -in the rock, and justly called the Pas d’Echelle. I need not say we were -obliged to dismount and toil up this ladder, beyond which rise steeps of -verdure shaded by walnuts. - -These brought us to Moneti, a rude straggling village, with its church -tower embosomed in gigantic limes. We availed ourselves of their deep -cool shade to dine as comfortably as a whole posse of withered hags, who -seemed to have been just alighted from their broomsticks, would allow -us. - -About half past three, a sledge drawn by four oxen was got ready to drag -us up to the holt of trees, the goal to which we were tending: -stretching ourselves on the straw spread over our vehicle, we set off -along a rugged path, conducted aslant the steep slope of the mountain, -vast prospects opening as we ascended; to our right the crags of the -little Saleve--the variegated plains of Gex and Chablais, separated by -the lake; below, Moneti, almost concealed in wood; behind, the mole, -lifting up its pyramidical summit amidst the wild amphitheatre of -glaciers, which lay this evening in dismal shadow, the sun being -overcast, the Jura half lost in rainy mists, and a heavy storm -darkening the Fort de l’Ecluse. Except a sickly gleam cast on the snows -of the Buet, not a ray of sunshine enlivened our landscape. - -This sorrowful colouring agreed but too well with the dejection of my -spirits. I suffered melancholy recollections to take full possession of -me, and glancing my eyes over the vast map below, sought out those spots -where I had lived so happy with my lovely Margaret. On them did I -eagerly gaze--absorbed in the consciousness of a fatal, irreparable -loss, I little noticed the transports expressed by my companion at the -grand effects of light and shade, which obeyed the movements of the -clouds; nor was I more attentive to the route of our oxen, which, -perfectly familiarized with precipices, preferred their edge to the bank -on the other side, and by this choice gave us an opportunity of looking -down more than a thousand feet perpendicularly on the wild shrubberies -and shattered rocks deep below, at the base of the mountain. In general -I shrink back from such bird’s-eye prospects with my head in a whirl, -and yet, by a most unaccountable fascination, feel a feverish impulse -to throw myself into the very gulph I abhor; but to-day I lay in passive -indifference, listlessly extended on our moving bed. - -Its progress being extremely deliberate, we had leisure to observe, as -we crept along, a profusion of Alpine flowers; but none of those -gorgeous insects mentioned by Saussure as abounding on Saleve were -fluttering about them. This was no favourable day for butterfly -excursions; the flowers laden with heavy drops, the forerunners of still -heavier rain, hung down their heads. We passed several chalets, formed -of mud and stone, instead of the neat timber, with which those on the -Swiss mountains are constructed. Meagre peasants, whose sallow -countenances looked quite of a piece with the sandy hue of their -habitations, kept staring at us from crevices and hollow places: the -fresh roses of a garden are not more different from the rank weeds of an -unhealthy swamp, than these wretched objects from the ruddy inhabitants -of Switzerland. - -My heart sank as we were driven alongside of one of these squalid -groups, huddled together under a blasted beech in expectation of a -storm. The wind drove the smoke and sparks of a fire just kindled at the -root of the tree, full in the face of an infant, whose mother had -abandoned it to implore our charity with outstretched withered hands. -The poor helpless being filled the air with waitings, and being tightly -swaddled lip in yellow rags, according to Savoyarde custom, exhibited an -appearance in form and colour not unlike that of an overgrown pumpkin -thrown on the ground out of the way. How should I have enjoyed setting -its limbs at liberty, and transporting it to the swelling bosom of a -Bernese peasant! such as I have seen in untaxed garments, red, blue and -green, with hair falling in braids mixed with flowers and silver -trinkets, hurrying along to some wake or wedding, with that firm step -and smiling hilarity which the consciousness of freedom inspires. - -A few minutes dragging beyond the tree just mentioned, we reached the -bold verdant slopes of delicate short herbage which crown the crags of -the mountain. We now moved smoothly along the turf, brushing it with our -hands to extract its aromatic fragrance, and having no longer rough -stones to encounter, our conveyance became so agreeable that we -regretted our arrival before a chalet, under a clump of weather-beaten -beach. These are the identical trees, so far and widely discovered, on -the summit of Saleve, and the point to which we had been tending. - -Seating ourselves on the very edge of a rocky cornice, we surveyed the -busy crowded territory of Geneva, the vast reach of the lake, its coast, -thickset with castles, towns, and villages, and the long line of the -Jura protecting these richly cultivated possessions. Turning round, we -traced the course of the Arve up to its awful sanctuary, the Alps of -Savoy, above which rose the Mont-Blanc in deadly paleness, backed by a -gloomy sky; nothing could form a stronger contrast to the populous and -fertile plains in front of the mountain than this chaos of snowy peaks -and melancholy deserts, the loftiest in the old world, held up in the -air, and beaten, in spite of summer, with wintry storms. - -I know not how long we should have remained examining the prospect had -the weather been favourable, and had we enjoyed one of those serene -evenings to be expected in the month of July. Many such have I passed in -my careless childish days, stretched out on the brow of this very -mountain, contemplating the heavenly azure of the lake, the innumerable -windows of the villas below blazing in the setting sun, and the glaciers -suffused by its last ray with a blushing pink. How often, giving way to -youthful enthusiasm, have I peopled these singularly varied peaks with -gnomes and fairies, the distributors of gold and crystal to those who -adventurously scaled their lofty abode. - -This evening my fancy was led to no such gay aërial excursions; sad -realities chained it to the earth, and to the scene before my eyes, -which, in lowering, sombre hue, corresponded with my interior gloom. A -rude blast driving us off the margin of the precipices, we returned to -the shelter of the beech. There we found some disappointed butterfly -catchers, probably of the watch-making tribe, and a silly boy gaping -after them with a lank net and empty boxes. This being Monday, I thought -the Saleve had been delivered from such intruders; but it seems that -the rage for natural history has so victoriously pervaded all ranks of -people in the republic, that almost every day in the week sends forth -some of its journeymen to ransack the neighbouring cliffs, and transfix -unhappy butterflies. - -Silversmiths and toymen, possessed by the spirit of De Luc and De -Saussure’s lucubrations, throw away the light implements of their trade, -and sally forth with hammer and pickaxe to pound pebbles and knock at -the door of every mountain for information. Instead of furbishing up -teaspoons and sorting watch-chains, they talk of nothing but quartz and -feldspath. One flourishes away on the durability of granite, whilst -another treats calcareous rocks with contempt; but as human pleasures -are seldom perfect and permanent, acrimonious disputes too frequently -interrupt the calm of the philosophic excursion. Squabbles arise about -the genus of a coralite, or concerning that element which has borne the -greatest part in the convulsion of nature. The advocate of water too -often sneaks home to his wife with a tattered collar, whilst the -partisan of fire and volcanoes lies vanquished in a puddle, or winding -up the clue of his argument in a solitary ditch. I cannot help thinking -so diffused a taste for fossils and petrifactions of no very particular -benefit to the artisans of Geneva, and that watches would go as well, -though their makers were less enlightened. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity of the - Night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of Genevese Morality. - - -It began to rain just as we entered the chalet under the beech-trees, -and one of the dirtiest I ever crept into--it would have been -uncharitable not to have regretted the absence of swine, for here was -mud and filth enough to have insured their felicity. A woman, whose -teeth of a shining whiteness were the only clean objects I could -discover, brought us foaming bowls of cream and milk, with which we -regaled ourselves, and then got into our vehicle. We but too soon left -the smooth herbage behind, and passed about an hour in rambling down the -mountain pelted by the showers, from which we took shelter under the -limes at Moneti. - -Here we should have drunk our tea in peace and quietness, had it not -been for the incursion of a gang of bandylegged watchmakers, smoking -their pipes, and scraping their fiddles, and snapping their fingers, -with all that insolent vulgarity so characteristic of the Rue-basse -portion of the Genevese community. We got out of their way, you may -easily imagine, as fast as we were able, and descending a rough road, -most abominably strewn with rolling pebbles, arrived at the bridge -d’Etrombieres just as it fell dark. The mouldering planks with which the -bridge is awkwardly put together, sounded suspiciously hollow under the -feet of our horses, and had it not been for the friendly light of a pine -torch which a peasant brought forth, we might have been tumbled into the -Arve. - -It was a mild summer night, the rainy clouds were dissolving away with a -murmur of distant thunder so faint as to be scarcely heard. From time to -time a flash of summer lightning discovered the lonely tower of Moneti -on the edge of the lesser Saleve. The ghostly tales, which the old curè -of the mountains had told me at a period when I hungered and thirsted -after supernatural narrations, recurred to my memory, in all their -variety of horrors, and kept it fully employed till I found myself under -the walls of Geneva. The gates were shut, but I knew they were to be -opened again at ten o’clock for the convenience of those returning from -the _Comedie_. - -The _Comedie_ is become of wonderful importance; but a few years ago the -very name of a play was held in such abhorrence by the spiritual -consistory of Geneva and its obsequious servants, which then included -the best part of the republic, that the partakers and abettors of such -diversions were esteemed on the high road to eternal perdition. Though, -God knows, I am unconscious of any extreme partiality for Calvin, I -cannot help thinking his severe discipline wisely adapted to the moral -constitution of this starch bit of a republic which he took to his grim -embraces. But these days of rigidity and plainness are completely gone -by; the soft spirit of toleration, so eloquently insinuated by Voltaire, -has removed all thorny fences, familiarized his numerous admirers with -every innovation, and laughed scruples of every nature to scorn. -Voltaire, indeed, may justly be styled the architect of that gay -well-ornamented bridge, by which freethinking and immorality have been -smuggled into the republic under the mask of philosophy and liberality -and sentiment. These monsters, like the Sin and Death of Milton, have -made speedy and irreparable havoc. To facilitate their operations, rose -the genius of “Rentes Viagères” at his bidding, tawdry villas with their -little pert groves of poplar and horse-chesnut start up--his power -enables Madame C. D. the bookseller’s lady to amuse the D. of G. with -assemblies, sets Parisian cabriolets and English phaetons rolling from -one faro table to another, and launches innumerable pleasure parties -with banners and popguns on the lake, drumming and trumpeting away their -time from morn till evening. I recollect, not many years past, how -seldom the echoes of the mountains were profaned by such noises, and how -rarely the drones of Geneva, if any there were in that once industrious -city, had opportunities of displaying their idleness; but now -Dissipation reigns triumphant, and to pay the tribute she exacts, every -fool runs headlong to throw his scrapings into the voracious whirlpool -of annuities; little caring, provided he feeds high and lolls in his -carriage, what becomes of his posterity. I had ample time to make these -reflections, as the _Comedie_ lasted longer than usual. - -Luckily the night improved, the storms had rolled away, and the moon -rising from behind the crags of the lesser Saleve cast a pleasant gleam -on the smooth turf of plain-palais, where we walked to and fro above -half an hour. We had this extensive level almost entirely to ourselves, -no light glimmered in any window, no sound broke the general stillness, -except a low murmur proceeding from a group of chesnut trees. There, -snug under a garden wall on a sequestered bench, sat two or three -Genevois of the old stamp, chewing the cud of sober sermons--men who -receive not more than seven or eight per cent. for their money; there -sat they waiting for their young ones, who had been seduced to the -theatre. - -A loud hubbub and glare of flambeaus proclaiming the end of the play, we -left these good folks to their rumination, and regaining our carriage -rattled furiously through the streets of Geneva, once so quiet, so -silent at these hours, to the no small terror and annoyance of those -whom Rentes Viagères had not yet provided with a speedier conveyance -than their own legs, or a brighter satellite than an old cook-maid with -a candle and lantern. - -It was eleven o’clock before we reached home, and near two before I -retired to rest, having sat down immediately to write this letter whilst -the impressions of the day were fresh in my memory. - -END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - -LONDON: - -PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, - -Dorset Street, Fleet Street. - - - - - - -ITALY; - -WITH SKETCHES OF - -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF “VATHEK.” - -THIRD EDITION. - -IN TWO VOLUMES. - -VOL. II. - -LONDON: - -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, - -Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. - -1835. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - -PORTUGAL. - -LETTER I. - -Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening -ramble. Page 5 - -LETTER II. - -Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid -progress of Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious -extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp’s mansion.--Beautiful -lake.--The wind still contrary. 8 - -LETTER III. - -A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral -effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected -dreams. 12 - -LETTER IV. - -A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the -compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. 16 - -LETTER V. - -Regrets produced by contrasts. 19 - -LETTER VI. - -Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant -vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of -the voyage. 21 - -LETTER VII. - -Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal -labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese -Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture -in petticoats.--Force of education.--Royalty without power.--Return -from the Palace. 23 - -LETTER VIII. - -Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic -Gardens.--Açafatas.--Description of the Gardens and -Terraces. 29 - -LETTER IX. - -Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley -of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the -Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of -rarities.--The Viceroy of Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A -night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary Procession.--Blessings -of Patriarchal Government. 34 - -LETTER X. - -Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the -streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the -Sacrament in awful state.--Gorgeous procession.--Bewildering -confusion of sounds. 47 - -LETTER XI. - -Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian -wife.--Magnificent Repast.--A tragic damsel. 51 - -LETTER XII. - -Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation -of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of -exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the -edge of the Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy -One of Lisbon. 55 - -LETTER XIII. - -The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic -Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to -the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking -effigy of the Saviour.--A young and melancholy -Carthusian.--The Cemetery. 59 - -LETTER XIV. - -Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor -Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit -to the Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.--The -Archbishop Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching -nature of that music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm -of the young Conde de Villanova.--No accounting for -fancies. 68 - -LETTER XV. - -Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public -gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit -to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous -narrations of a young priest.--Convent of -Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore’s chickens.--Sequestered -group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. 77 - -LETTER XVI. - -Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of -Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows -of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre -Duarte, a famous Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a -conceited Physician.--Their ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese -minuets. 88 - -LETTER XVII. - -Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.--Breakfast -at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent -and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of -mysterious chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening -scene in the garden of Marvilla. 96 - -LETTER XVIII. - -Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalhaô.--The Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion -designed by Pillement.--A convulsive -gallop.--Cold weather in July. 104 - -LETTER XIX. - -Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of -Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on -the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of -Alphonso the Sixth.--The Chapel.--Barbaric profusion -of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he -received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in preparation -for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalhaô. 110 - -LETTER XX. - -Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday -of Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome -lights of Truth.--Invective against the English. 117 - -LETTER XXI. - -The Queen of Portugal’s Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal -of a Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. 123 - -LETTER XXII. - -Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast -fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The -Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. -Augustine.--The collateral Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The -Abbot of the Convent.--The Library.--View from -the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of the Capitan -Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the Organs.--The -Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive crowd.--The -Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de -Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan -Mor’s. 127 - -LETTER XXIII. - -High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave -Mafra.--An accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful -view from it. 143 - -LETTER XXIV. - -A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing -stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful -funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of -Penha Verde. 147 - -LETTER XXV. - -Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. -Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The -old Consul and his tray of jewels. 157 - -LETTER XXVI. - -Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke -d’Alafoens.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of -the Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163 - -LETTER XXVII. - -Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular -invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity -and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary -personage. 169 - -LETTER XXVIII. - -Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora -da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The -Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination -of the Ancients exemplified. 179 - -LETTER XXIX. - -Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa -to the edifices in Caspar Poussin’s landscapes.--The ancient -pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de -Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx -of visitors.--A celebrated Prior’s erudition and -strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--Œcolampadius.--Bevy -of Palace damsels.--Fête at the -Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A -favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the -Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous -etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The -young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189 - -LETTER XXX. - -Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.--The -Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese -poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy -Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations -in honour of the Infanta’s accouchement.--Public -harangues.--Policarpio’s singing, and anecdotes -of the _haute noblesse_. 201 - -LETTER XXXI. - -Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song -of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview -with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation -with His Royal Highness.--Return to -Ramalhaô. 212 - -LETTER XXXII. - -Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of -the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His -house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train -of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black -dose of legendary superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A -dreary evening. 229 - -LETTER XXXIII. - -Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of -beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful -countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess -of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A -strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira -Mor’s.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the -Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on -leaving Portugal. 235 - -LETTER XXXIV. - -Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by -Perez and Jomelli.--Marialva’s affecting address.--My -sorrow and anxiety. 253 - - - - -SPAIN. - - -LETTER I. - -Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The -church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on -the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach -Arroyolos. 259 - - -LETTER II. - -A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An -outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our -reception there.--My visiters. 268 - - -LETTER III. - -Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A -muleteer’s enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey -resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered -hags.--Names and characters of our mules.--Posada at -Merida. 275 - - -LETTER IV. - -Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal -country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense -wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the -escrivano.--A terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range -of lofty mountains.--Calzada. 282 - - -LETTER V. - -Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera.--Drawling -tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at -Santa Olaya.--The lady of the house and her dogs and -dancers. 289 - - -LETTER VI. - -Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most -determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach -to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d’Alcala.--The -Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. 296 - - -LETTER VII. - -The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her -apartment described.--Her passion for music.--Her señoros -de honor. 301 - - -LETTER VIII. - -The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and -gardens of the Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and -his numerous train.--Farinelli’s apartments. 305 - - -LETTER IX. - -The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The -Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The -Theatre.--A highly popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their -glory. 310 - - -LETTER X. - -Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception -by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence -of the choir.--Charles the Fifth’s organ.--Crucifix -by Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.--Extent -and intricacy of the stupendous edifice. 314 - - -LETTER XI. - -Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from -the Archangel Gabriel’s wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.--Sepulchral -cave.--River of death.--The regal sarcophagi. 323 - - -LETTER XII. - -A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.--Curious assemblage -in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an -eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini -in despair.--Solecisms in dancing. 329 - - -LETTER XIII. - -Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King’s sleeping -apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture -of the Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don -Gabriel and the Infanta.--Her Royal Highness’s affecting -recollections of home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition -of national manners there. 339 - - -LETTER XIV. - -A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with -him.--History of a Ghost-seer. 349 - - -LETTER XV. - -Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, -an infidel in the German style.--Mass in the -chapel of the Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba’s villa.--Destruction -by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French -ambassador’s ball.--Heir-apparent of the -house of Medina Celi. 354 - - -LETTER XVI. - -Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens -of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame -d’Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame -d’Aranda’s toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame -Badaan.--Cortejos off duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A -curious group.--A dance. 358 - - -LETTER XVII. - -Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange -medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the -Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco -by Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present -reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna’s house.--Apathy -pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. 365 - - -LETTER XVIII. - -Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive -rage for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley -of Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.--Degeneration -of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. 376 - - - - -PORTUGAL. - - - - -PREFACE - -TO - -PORTUGUESE LETTERS. - - -Portugal attracting much attention in her present convulsed and -declining state, it might not perhaps be uninteresting to the public to -cast back a glance by way of contrast to the happier times when she -enjoyed, under the mild and beneficent reign of Donna Maria the First, a -great share of courtly and commercial prosperity. - -March 1, 1834. - - - - -PORTUGAL. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble. - - -Falmouth, March 6, 1787. - -The glass is sinking; the west wind gently breathing upon the water, the -smoke softly descending into the room, and sailors yawning dismally at -the door of every ale-house. - -Navigation seems at a full stop. The captains lounging about with their -hands in their pockets, and passengers idling at billiards. Dr. V---- -has scraped acquaintance with a quaker, and went last night to one of -their assemblies, where he kept jingling his fine Genevan watch-chains -to their sober and silent dismay. - -In the intervals of the mild showers with which we are blessed, I ramble -about some fields already springing with fresh herbage, which slope -down to the harbour: the immediate environs of Falmouth are not -unpleasant upon better acquaintance. Just out of the town, in a -sheltered recess of the bay, lies a grove of tall elms, forming several -avenues carpeted with turf. In the central point rises a stone pyramid -about thirty feet high, well designed and constructed, but quite plain -without any inscription; between the stems of the trees one discovers a -low white house, built in and out in a very capricious manner, with -oriel windows and porches, shaded by bushes of prosperous bay. Several -rose-coloured cabbages, with leaves as crisped and curled as those of -the acanthus, decorate a little grass-plat, neatly swept, before the -door. Over the roof of this snug habitation I spied the skeleton of a -gothic mansion, so completely robed with thick ivy, as to appear like -one of those castles of clipped box I have often seen in a Dutch garden. - -Yesterday evening, the winds being still, and the sun gleaming warm for -a moment or two, I visited this spot to examine the ruin, hear birds -chirp, and scent wall-flowers. - -Two young girls, beautifully shaped, and dressed with a sort of romantic -provincial elegance, were walking up and down the grove by the pyramid. -There was something so love-lorn in their gestures, that I have no doubt -they were sighing out their souls to each other. As a decided amateur of -this sort of _confidential promenade_, I would have given my ears to -have heard their _confessions_. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid progress of - Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious - extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp’s mansion.--Beautiful - lake.--The wind still contrary. - - -Falmouth, March 7, 1787. - -Scott came this morning and took me to see the consolidated mines in the -parish of Gwynnap; they are situated in a bleak desert, rendered still -more doleful by the unhealthy appearance of its inhabitants. At every -step one stumbles upon ladders that lead into utter darkness, or funnels -that exhale warm copperous vapours. All around these openings the ore is -piled up in heaps waiting for purchasers. I saw it drawn reeking out of -the mine by the help of a machine called a whim, put in motion by mules, -which in their turn are stimulated by impish children hanging over the -poor brutes, and flogging them round without respite. This dismal scene -of _whims_, suffering mules, and hillocks of cinders, extends for -miles. Huge iron engines creaking and groaning, invented by Watt, and -tall chimneys smoking and flaming, that seem to belong to old Nicholas’s -abode, diversify the prospect. - -Two strange-looking Cornish beings, dressed in ghostly white, conducted -me about, and very kindly proposed a descent into the bowels of the -earth, but I declined initiation. These mystagogues occupy a tolerable -house, with fair sash windows, where the inspectors of the mine hold -their meetings, and regale upon beef, pudding, and brandy. - -While I was standing at the door of this habitation, several woful -figures in tattered garments, with pickaxes on their shoulders, crawled -out of a dark fissure and repaired to a hovel, which I learnt was a -gin-shop. There they pass the few hours allotted them above ground, and -drink, it is to be hoped, an oblivion of their subterraneous existence. -Piety as well as gin helps to fill up their leisure moments, and I was -told that Wesley, who came apostolising into Cornwall a few years ago, -preached on this very spot to above seven thousand followers. - -Since this period Methodism has made a very rapid progress, and has been -of no trifling service in diverting the attention of these sons of -darkness from then present condition to the glories of the life to come. -However, some people inform me their actual state is not so much to be -lamented, and that, notwithstanding their pale looks and tattered -raiment, they are far from being poor or unhealthy. Fortune often throws -a considerable sum into their laps when they least expect it, and many a -common miner has been known to gain a hundred pounds in the space of a -month or two. Like sailors in the first effusion of prize-money, they -have no notion of turning their good-luck to advantage; but squander the -fruits of their toil in the silliest species of extravagance. Their -wives are dressed out in tawdry silks, and flaunt away in ale-houses -between rows of obedient fiddlers. The money spent, down they sink again -into damps and darkness. - -Having passed about an hour in collecting minerals, stopping engines -with my finger, and performing all the functions of a diligent young man -desirous of information, I turned my back on smokes, flames, and -coal-holes, with great pleasure. - -Not above a mile-and-a-half from this black bustling scene, in a -sheltered valley, lies the mansion of Mr. Beauchamp, wrapped up in -shrubberies of laurel and laurustine. Copses of hazel and holly -terminate the prospect on almost every side, and in the midst of the -glen a broad clear stream reflects the impending vegetation. This -transparent water, after performing the part of a mirror before the -house, forms a succession of waterfalls which glitter between slopes of -the smoothest turf, sprinkled with daffodils: numerous flights of -widgeon and Muscovy ducks, were sprucing themselves on the edge of the -stream, and two grave swans seemed highly to approve of its woody -retired banks for the education of their progeny. - -Very glad was I to disport on its “margent green,” after crushing -cinders at every step all the morning; had not the sun hid himself, and -the air grown chill, I might have fooled away three or four hours with -the swans and the widgeons, and lost my dinner. Upon my return home, I -found the wind as contrary as ever, and all thoughts of sailing -abandoned. - - - - -LETTER III. - - A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral - effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected - dreams. - - -Falmouth, March 8, 1787. - -What a lovely morning! how glassy the sea, how busy the fishing-boats, -and how fast asleep the wind in its old quarter! Towards evening, -however, it freshened, and I took a toss in a boat with Mr. Trefusis, -whose territories extend half round the bay. His green hanging downs -spotted with sheep, and intersected by rocky gullies, shaded by tall -straight oaks and ashes, form a romantic prospect, very much in the -style of Mount Edgcumbe. - -We drank tea at the capital of these dominions, an antiquated mansion, -which is placed in a hollow on the summit of a lofty hill, and contains -many ruinous halls and never-ending passages: they cannot, however, be -said to lead to nothing, like those celebrated by Gray in his Long -Story, for Mrs. Trefusis terminated the perspective. She is a native of -Lausanne, and was quite happy to see her countryman Verdeil. - -We should have very much enjoyed her conversation, but the moment tea -was over, the squire could not resist leading us round his improvements -in kennel, stable, and oxstall: though it was pitch-dark, and we were -obliged to be escorted by grooms and groomlings with candles and -lanterns; a very necessary precaution, as the winds blew not more -violently without the house than within. - -In the course of our peregrination through halls, pantries, and -antechambers, we passed a staircase with heavy walnut-railing, lined -from top to bottom with effigies of ancestors that looked quite -formidable by the horny glow of our lanterns; which illumination, dull -as it was, occasioned much alarm amongst a collection of animals, both -furred and feathered, the delight of Mr. Trefusis’s existence. - -Every corner of his house contains some strange and stinking inhabitant; -one can hardly move without stumbling over a basket of puppies, or -rolling along a mealy tub, with ferrets in the bottom of it; rap went my -head against a wire cage, and behold a squirrel twirled out of its sleep -in sad confusion: a little further on, I was very near being the -destruction of some new-born dormice--their feeble squeak haunts my ears -at this moment! - -Beyond this nursery, a door opened and admitted us into a large saloon, -in the days of Mr. Trefusis’s father very splendidly decorated, but at -present exhibiting nothing, save damp plastered walls, mouldering -floors, and cracked windows. A well-known perfume issuing from this -apartment, proclaimed the neighbourhood of those fragrant animals, which -you perfectly recollect were the joy of my infancy, and presently three -or four couple of spanking yellow rabbits made their appearance. A -racoon poked his head out of a coop, whilst an owl lifted up the gloom -of his countenance, and gave us his malediction. - -My nose having lost all relish for _rabbitish_ odours, took refuge in my -handkerchief; there did I keep it snug till it pleased our conductors to -light us through two or three closets, all of a flutter with Virginia -nightingales, goldfinches, and canary-birds, into the stable. Several -game-cocks fell a crowing with most triumphant shrillness upon our -approach; and a monkey--the image of poor Brandoin--expanded his jaws in -so woful a manner, that I grew melancholy, and paid the hunters not half -the attention they merited. - -At length we got into the open air again, made our bows and departed. -The evening was become serene and pleasant, the moon beamed brilliantly -on the sea; but the owls, who are never to be pleased, hooted most -ruefully. - -Good night: I expect to dream of _closed-up doors_,[12] and haunted -passages; rats, puppies, racoons, game-cocks, rabbits, and dormice. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the - compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. - - -Falmouth, March 10, 1787. - -I thought last night our thin pasteboard habitation would have been -blown into the sea, for never in my life did I hear such dreadful -blusterings. Perhaps the winds are celebrating the approach of the -equinox, or some high festival in Æolus’s calendar, with which we poor -mortals are unacquainted. How tired I am of the language of the compass, -of wind shifting to this point and veering to the other; of gales -springing up, and breezes freshening; of rough seas, clear berths, ships -driving, and anchors lifting. Oh! that I was rooted like a tree, in some -sheltered corner of an inland valley, where I might never hear more of -saltwater or sailing. - -You cannot wonder at my becoming impatient, after eleven days’ -captivity, nor at my wishing myself anywhere but where I am: I should -almost prefer a quarantine party at the new elegant Lazaretto off -Marseilles, to this smoky residence; at least, I might there learn some -curious particulars of the Levant, enjoy bright sunshine, and perfect -myself in Arabic. But what can a being of my turn do at Falmouth? I have -little taste for the explanation of fire-engines, Mr. Scott; the pursuit -of hares under the auspices of young Trefusis; or the gliding of -billiard-balls in the society of Barbadoes Creoles and packet-boat -captains. The Lord have mercy upon me! now, indeed, do I perform -penance. - -Our dinner yesterday went off tolerably well. We had _on_ the table a -savoury pig, right worthy of Otaheite, and some of the finest poultry I -ever tasted; and _round_ the table two or three brace of odd Cornish -gentlefolks, not deficient in humour and originality. - -About eight in the evening, six game-cocks were ushered into the -eating-room by two limber lads in scarlet jackets; and, after a flourish -of crowing, the noble birds set-to with surprising keenness. Tufts of -brilliant feathers soon flew about the apartment; but the carpet was -not stained with the blood of the combatants: for, to do Trefusis -justice, he has a generous heart, and takes no pleasure in cruelty. The -cocks were unarmed, had their spurs cut short, and may live to fight -fifty such harmless battles. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Regrets produced by Contrasts. - - -Falmouth, March 11, 1787. - -What a fool was I to leave my beloved retirement at Evian! Instead of -viewing innumerable transparent rills falling over the amber-coloured -rocks of Melierie, I am chained down to contemplate an oozy beach, -deserted by the sea, and becrawled with worms tracking their way in the -slime that harbours them. Instead of the cheerful crackling of a -wood-fire in the old baron’s great hall, I hear the bellowing of winds -in narrow chimneys. You must allow the aromatic fragrance of fir-cones, -such heaps of which I used to burn in Savoy, is greatly preferable to -the exhalations of Welsh coal, and that to a person wrapped up in -musical devotion, high mass must be a good deal superior to the hummings -and hawings of a Quaker assembly. Colett swears he had rather be -boarded at the Inquisition than remain at the mercy of the confounded -keeper of this hotel, the worst and the dearest in Christendom. We are -all tired to death, and know not what to do with ourselves. - -As I look upon ennui to be very catching, I shall break off before I -give you a share of it. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant - vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of the voyage. - - -Falmouth, March 13, 1787. - -No prospect of launching this day upon the ocean. Every breeze is -subsided, and a profound calm established. I walk up and down the path -which leads to Pen-dennis Castle with folded arms, in a most listless -desponding mood. Vast brakes of furze, much stouter and loftier than any -with which I am acquainted, scent the air with the perfume of apricots. -Primroses, violets, and fresh herbs innumerable expand on every bank. -Larks, poised in the soft blue sky, warble delightfully. The sea, far -and wide, is covered with fishing-boats; and such a stillness prevails, -that I hear the voices of the fishermen. - -You will be rambling in sheltered alleys, whilst winds and currents -drive me furiously along craggy shores, under the scowl of a -tempestuous sky. You will be angling for perch, whilst sharks are -whetting their teeth at me. Methinks I hear the voracious gluttons -disputing the first snap, and pointing upwards their cold slimy noses. -Out upon them! I have no desire to invade their element, or (using -poetical language) to plough those plains of waves which brings them -rich harvests of carcasses, and had much rather cling fast to the green -banks of Pen-dennis. I even prefer mining to sailing; and of the two, -had rather be swallowed up by the earth than the ocean. - -I wish some “swart fairy of the mine” would snatch me to her -concealments. Rather than pass a month in the qualms of sea-sickness, I -would consent to live three by candlelight, in the deepest den you could -discover, stuck close to a foul midnight hag as mouldy as a rotten -apple. - -This, you will tell me, is being very energetic in my aversions, that I -allow; but such, you know, is my trim, and I cannot help it. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths - in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the - Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petticoats.--Force of - education.--Royalty without power.--Return from the Palace. - - -30th May, 1787. - -Horne persuaded me much against my will to accompany him in his -Portuguese chaise to Pagliavam, the residence of John the Fifth’s -bastards, instead of following my usual track along the sea-shore. The -roads to this stately garden are abominable, and more infested by -beggars, dogs, flies, and musquitoes, than any I am acquainted with. The -villa itself, which belongs to the Marquis of Lourical, is placed in a -hollow, and the tufted groves which surround it admit not a breath of -air; so I was half suffocated the moment I entered their shade. - -A great flat space before the garden-front of the villa is laid out in -dismal labyrinths of clipped myrtle, with lofty pyramids rising from -them, in the style of that vile Dutch maze planted by King William at -Kensington, and rooted up some years ago by King George the Third. -Beyond this puzzling ground are several long alleys of stiff dark -verdure, called _ruas_, _i. e._ literally streets, with great propriety, -being more close, more formal, and not less dusty than High-Holborn. I -deviated from them into plats of well-watered vegetables and aromatic -herbs, enclosed by neat fences of cane, covered with an embroidery of -the freshest and most perfect roses, quite free from insects and -cankers, worthy to have strewn the couches and graced the bosom of Lais, -Aspasia, or Lady----. You know how warmly every mortal of taste delights -in these lovely flowers; how frequently, and in what harmonious numbers, -Ariosto has celebrated them. Has not Lady ---- a whole apartment painted -over with roses? Does she not fill her bath with their leaves, and deck -her idols with garlands of no other flowers? and is she not quite in the -right of it? - -Whilst I was poetically engaged with the roses, Horne entered into -conversation with a sort of Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse to -their bastard highnesses. He had a snug well-powdered wig, a bright -silver-hilted sword, a crimson full-dress suit, and a gently bulging -paunch. With one hand in his bosom and the other in the act of taking -snuff, he harangued emphatically upon the holiness, temperance, and -chastity of his august masters, who live sequestered from the world in -dingy silent state, abhor profane company, and never cast a look upon -females. - -Being curious to see the abode of these semi-royal sober personages, I -entered the palace. Not an insect stirred, not a whisper was audible. -The principal apartments consist in a suite of lofty-coved saloons, -nobly proportioned, and uniformly hung with damask of the deepest -crimson. The upper end of each room is doubly shaded by a ponderous -canopy of cut velvet. To the right and left appear rows of huge -elbow-chairs of the same materials. No glasses, no pictures, no gilding, -no decoration, but heavy drapery; even the tables are concealed by cut -velvet flounces, in the style of those with which our dowagers used -formerly to array their toilets. The very sight of such close tables is -enough to make one perspire; and I cannot imagine what demon prompted -the Portuguese to invent such a fusty fashion. - -This taste for putting commodes and tables into petticoats is pretty -general here, at least in royal apartments. At Queluz, not a card or -dining-table has escaped; and many an old court-dress, I should suspect, -has been cut up to furnish these accoutrements, which are of all -colours, plain and flowered, pastorally sprigged or gorgeously -embroidered. Not so at Pagliavam. Crimson alone prevails, and casts its -royal gloom unrivalled on every object. Stuck fast to the wall, between -two of the aforementioned tables, are two fauteuils for their -highnesses; and opposite, a rank of chairs for those reverend fathers in -God who from time to time are honoured with admittance. - -How mighty is the force of Education!--What pains it must require on the -part of nurses, equerries, and chamberlains, to stifle every lively and -generous sensation in the princelings they educate,--to break a human -being into the habits of impotent royalty! Dignity without command is -one of the heaviest of burthens. A sovereign may employ himself; he has -the choice of good or evil; but princes, like those of Pagliavam, -without power or influence, who have nothing to feed on but imaginary -greatness, must yawn their souls out, and become in process of time as -formal and inanimate as the pyramids of stunted myrtle in their gardens. -Happier were those babies King John did not think proper to recognize, -and they are not few in number, for that pious monarch, - - “Wide as his command, - “Scattered his Maker’s image through the land.” - -They, perhaps, whilst their brothers are gaping under rusty canopies, -tinkle their guitars in careless moonlight rambles, wriggle in gay -fandangos, or enjoy sound sleep, rural fare, and merriment, in the -character of jolly village curates. - -I was glad to get out of the palace; its stillness and gloom depressed -my spirits, and a confined atmosphere, impregnated with the smell of -burnt lavender, almost overcame me. I am just returned gasping for air. -No wonder; one might as well be in bed with a warming-pan as in a -Portuguese cariole with the portly Horne, who carries a noble -protuberance, set off in this season with a satin waistcoat richly -spangled. - -I must go to Cintra, or I shall expire! - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic - Gardens.--Açafatas.--Description of the Gardens and Terraces. - - -May 31, 1787. - -It is in vain I call upon clouds to cover me and fogs to wrap me up. You -can form no adequate idea of the continual glare of this renowned -climate. Lisbon is the place in the world best calculated to make one -cry out - - “Hide me from day’s garish eye;” - -but where to hide is not so easy. Here are no thickets of pine as in the -classic Italian villas, none of those quivering poplars and leafy -chestnuts which cover the plains of Lombardy. The groves in the -immediate environs of this capital are composed of--with, alas! but few -exceptions--dwarfish orange-trees and cinder-coloured olives. Under -their branches repose neither shepherds nor shepherdesses, but -whitening bones, scraps of leather, broken pantiles, and passengers not -unfrequently attended by monkeys, who, I have been told, are let out for -the purpose of picking up a livelihood. Those who cannot afford this -apish luxury, have their bushy poles untenanted by affectionate -relations, for yesterday just under my window I saw two blessed babies -rendering this good office to their aged parent. - -I had determined not to have stirred beyond the shade of my awning; -however, towards eve, the extreme fervour of the sun being a little -abated, old Horne (who has yet a colt’s-tooth) prevailed upon me to walk -in the Botanic Gardens, where not unfrequently are to be found certain -youthful animals of the female gender called Açafatas, in Portuguese; a -species between a bedchamber woman and a maid of honour. The Queen has -kindly taken the ugliest with her to the Caldas: those who remain have -large black eyes sparkling with the true spirit of adventure, an -exuberant flow of dark hair, and pouting lips of the colour and size of -full-blown roses. - -All this, you will tell me, does not compose a perfect beauty. I never -meant to convey such a notion: I only wish you to understand that the -nymphs we have just quitted are the flowers of the Queen’s flock, and -that she has, at least, four or five dozen more in attendance upon her -sacred person, with larger mouths, smaller eyes, and swarthier -complexions. - -Not being in sufficient spirits to flourish away in Portuguese, my -conversation was chiefly addressed to a lovely blue-eyed Irish girl of -fifteen or sixteen, lately married to an officer of her Majesty’s -customs. Spouse goes a pilgrimaging to Nossa Senhora do Cabo--little -madam whisks about the Botanic Garden with the ladies of the palace and -a troop of sopranos, who teach her to warble and speak Italian. She is -well worth teaching everything in their power. Her hair of the loveliest -auburn, her straight Grecian eyebrows and fair complexion, form a -striking contrast to the gipsy-coloured skins and jetty tresses of her -companions. She looked like a visionary being skimming along the alleys, -and leaving the pot-bellied sopranos and dowdy Açafatas far behind, -wondering at her agility. - -The garden is pleasant enough, situated upon an eminence, planted with -light flowering trees clustered with blossoms. Above their topmost -branches rises a broad majestic terrace, with marble balustrades of -shining whiteness and strange Oriental pattern. They design -indifferently in this country, but execute with great neatness and -precision. I never saw balustrades better hewn or chiseled than those -bordering the steps which lead up to the grand terrace. Its ample -surface is laid out in oblong compartments of marble, containing no very -great variety of heliotropes, aloes, geraniums, china-roses, and the -commonest plants of our green-houses. Such ponderous divisions have a -dismal effect; they reminded one of a place of interment, and it struck -me as if the deceased inhabitants of the adjoining palace were sprouting -up in the shape of prickly-pears, Indian-figs, gaudy holly-oaks, and -peppery capsicums. - -The terrace is about fifteen hundred paces in length. Three copious -fountains give it an air of coolness, much increased by the waving of -tall acacias, exposed by their lofty situation to every breeze which -blows from the entrance of the Tagus, whose lovely azure appears to -great advantage between the quivering foliage. - -The Irish girl and your faithful correspondent coursed each other like -children along the terrace, and when tired reposed under a group of -gigantic Brazilian aloes by one of the fountains. The swarthy party -detached its principal guardian, a gawky young priest, to observe all -the wanderings and riposos of us white people. - -It was late, and the sun had set several minutes before I took my -departure. Black eyes and blue eyes seem horridly jealous of each other. -I fear my youthful and lively companion will suffer for having more -alertness than the Açafatas: she will be pinched, if I am not mistaken, -as the party return through the dark and intricate passages which join -the palace of the Ajuda to the gardens. Sad thought, the leaving such a -fair little being in the hands of fiery, despotic females, so greatly -her inferiors in complexion and delicacy. - -They will take especial care, I warrant them, to fill the husband’s head -with suspicions less charitable than those inspired by Nossa Senhora do -Cabo. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of - Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its - much revered Masters.--Collection of Rarities.--The Viceroy of - Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A Night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary - Procession.--Blessings of Patriarchal Government. - - -3 June, 1787. - -We went by special invitation to the royal Convent of the Necessidades, -belonging to the Oratorians, to see the ceremony of consecrating a -father of that order Bishop of Algarve, and were placed fronting the -altar in a gallery crowded with important personages in shining raiment, -the relations of the new prelate. The floor being spread with rich -Persian carpets and velvet cushions, it was pretty good kneeling; but, -notwithstanding this comfortable accommodation, I thought the ceremony -would never finish. There was a mighty glitter of crosses, censers, -mitres, and crosiers, continually in motion, as several bishops -assisted in all their pomp. - -The music, which was extremely simple and pathetic, appeared to affect -the grandees in my neighbourhood very profoundly, for they put on woful -contrite countenances, thumped their breasts, and seemed to think -themselves, as most of them are, miserable sinners. Feeling oppressed by -the heat and the sermon, I made my retreat slyly and silently from the -splendid gallery, and passed through some narrow corridors, as warm as -flues, into the garden. - -But this was only exchanging one scene of formality and closeness for -another. I panted after air, and to obtain that blessing escaped through -a little narrow door into the wild free valley of Alcantara. Here all -was solitude and humming of bees, and fresh gales blowing from the -entrance of the Tagus over the tufted tops of orange gardens. The -refreshing sound of water-wheels seemed to give me new life. - -I set the sun at defiance, and advanced towards that part of the valley -across which stretches the enormous aqueduct you have heard so often -mentioned as the most colossal edifice of its kind in Europe. It has -only one row of pointed openings, and the principal arch, which crosses -a rapid brook, measures above two hundred and fifty feet in height. The -Pont de Garde and Caserta have several rows of arches one above the -other, which, by dividing the attention, take off from the size of the -whole. There is a vastness in this single range that strikes with -astonishment. I sat down on a fragment of rock, under the great arch, -and looked up to the vaulted stone-work so high above me with a -sensation of awe not unallied to fear; as if the building I gazed upon -was the performance of some immeasurable being endued with gigantic -strength, who might perhaps take a fancy to saunter about his works this -morning, and, in mere awkwardness, crush me to atoms. - -Hard by the spot where I sat are several inclosures filled with canes, -eleven or twelve feet high: their fresh green leaves, agitated by the -feeblest wind, form a perpetual murmur. I am fond of this rustling, and -suffered myself to be lulled by it into a state of very necessary repose -after the fatigues of scrambling over crags and precipices. - -As soon as I returned from my walk, Horne took me to dine with him, and -afterwards to the Marialva Palace to pay the Grand Prior a visit. The -court-yard, filled with shabby two-wheeled chaises, put me in mind of -the entrance of a French post-house; a recollection not weakened by the -sight of several ample heaps of manure, between which we made the best -of our way up the great staircase, and had near tumbled over a swingeing -sow and her numerous progeny, which escaped from under our legs with -bitter squeakings. - -This hubbub announced our arrival, so out came the Grand Prior, his -nephew, the old Abade, and a troop of domestics. All great Portuguese -families are infested with herds of these, in general, ill-favoured -dependants; and none more than the Marialvas, who dole out every day -three hundred portions, at least, of rice and other eatables to as many -greedy devourers. - -The Grand Prior had shed his pontifical garments and did the honours of -the house, and conducted us with much agility all over the apartments, -and through the _manège_, where the old Marquis, his brother, though at -a very advanced age, displays feats of the most consummate -horsemanship. He seems to have a decided taste for clocks, compasses, -and time-keepers. I counted no less than ten in his bedchamber; four or -five in full swing, making a loud hissing: they were chiming and -striking away (for it was exactly six) when I followed my conductor up -and down half-a-dozen staircases into a saloon hung with rusty damask. - -A table in the centre of this antiquated apartment was covered with -rarities brought forth for our inspection; curious shell-work, ivory -crucifixes, models of ships, housings embroidered with feathers, and the -Lord knows what besides, stinking of camphor enough to knock one down. - -Whilst we were staring with all our eyes and holding our handkerchiefs -to our noses, the Count of V----, Viceroy of Algarve, made his -appearance, in grand pea-green and pink and silver gala, straddling and -making wry faces as if some disagreeable accident had befallen him. He -was, however, in a most gracious mood, and received our eulogiums upon -his relation, the new bishop, with much complacency. Our conversation -was limpingly carried on in a great variety of broken languages. -Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, French, and English, had each their turn -in rapid succession. The subject of all this polyglottery was the -glories and piety of John the Fifth, regret for the extinction of the -Jesuits, and the reverse for the death of Pombal, whose memory he holds -in something not distantly removed from execration. This flow of -eloquence was accompanied by the strangest, most buffoonical grimaces -and slobberings I ever beheld, for the Viceroy having a perennial -moistness of mouth, drivels at every syllable. - -One must not, however, decide too hastily upon outward appearances. This -slobbering, canting personage, is a distinguished statesman and good -officer, pre-eminent amongst the few who have seen service and given -proofs of prowess and capacity. - -To escape the long-winded narrations which were pouring warm into my -ear, I took refuge near a harpsichord, where Policarpio, one of the -first tenors in the Queen’s chapel, was singing and accompanying -himself. The curtains of the door of an adjoining dark apartment being -half drawn, gave me a transient glimpse of Donna Henriquetta de L----, -Don Pedro’s sister, advancing one moment and retiring the next, eager to -approach and examine us exotic beings, but not venturing to enter the -saloon during her mother’s absence. She appeared to me a most -interesting girl, with eyes full of bewitching languor;--but of what do -I talk? I only saw her pale and evanescent, as one fancies one sees -objects in a dream. A group of lovely children (her sisters, I believe) -sat at her feet upon the ground, resembling genii partially concealed by -folds of drapery in some grand allegorical picture by Rubens or Paul -Veronese. - -Night approaching, lights glimmered on the turrets, terraces, and every -part of the strange huddle of buildings of which this morisco-looking -palace is composed; half the family were engaged in reciting the -litanies of saints, the other in freaks and frolics, perhaps of no very -edifying nature: the monotonous staccato of the guitar, accompanied by -the low soothing murmur of female voices singing modinhas, formed -altogether a strange though not unpleasant combination of sounds. - -I was listening to them with avidity, when a glare of flambeaus, and -the noise of a splashing and dashing of water, called us out upon the -verandas, in time to witness a procession scarcely equalled since the -days of Noah. I doubt whether his ark contained a more heterogeneous -collection of animals than issued from a scalera with fifty oars, which -had just landed the old Marquis of M. and his son Don Josè, attended by -a swarm of musicians, poets, bullfighters, grooms, monks, dwarfs, and -children of both sexes, fantastically dressed. - -The whole party, it seems, were returned from a pilgrimage to some -saint’s nest or other on the opposite shore of the Tagus. First jumped -out a hump-backed dwarf, blowing a little squeaking trumpet three or -four inches long; then a pair of led captains, apparently commanded by a -strange, old, swaggering fellow in a showy uniform, who, I was told, had -acted the part of a sort of brigadier-general in some sort of an island. -Had it been Barataria, Sancho would soon have sent him about his -business, for, if we believe the scandalous chronicle of Lisbon, a more -impudent buffoon, parasite, and pilferer seldom existed. - -Close at his heels stalked a savage-looking monk, as tall as Samson, -and two Capuchin friars, heavily laden, but with what sort of provision -I am ignorant; next came a very slim and sallow-faced apothecary, in -deep sables, completely answering in gait and costume the figure one -fancies to one’s self of Senhor Apuntador, in Gil Blas, followed by a -half-crazed improvisatore, spouting verses at us as he passed under the -balustrades against which we were leaning. - -He was hardly out of hearing before a confused rabble of watermen and -servants with bird-cages, lanterns, baskets of fruit, and chaplets of -flowers, came gamboling along to the great delight of a bevy of -children; who, to look more like the inhabitants of Heaven than even -Nature designed, had light fluttering wings attached to their -rose-coloured shoulders. Some of these little theatrical angels were -extremely beautiful, and had their hair most coquettishly arranged in -ringlets. - -The old Marquis is doatingly fond of them; night and day they remain -with him, imparting all the advantages that can possibly be derived from -fresh and innocent breath to a declining constitution. The patriarch of -the Marialvas has followed this regimen many years, and also some -others which are scarcely credible. Having a more than Roman facility of -swallowing an immense profusion of dainties, and making room continually -for a fresh supply, he dines alone every day between two silver canteens -of extraordinary magnitude. Nobody in England would believe me if I -detailed the enormous repast I saw spread out for him; but let your -imagination loose upon all that was ever conceived in the way of -gormandizing, and it will not in this case exceed the reality. - -As soon as the contents, animal and vegetable, of the principal scalera, -and three or four other barges in its train, had been deposited in their -respective holes, corners, and roosting-places, I received an invitation -from the old Marquis to partake of a collation in his apartment. Not -less, I am certain, than fifty servants were in waiting, and exclusive -of half-a-dozen wax-torches, which were borne in state before us, above -a hundred tapers of different sizes were lighted up in the range of -rooms, intermingled with silver braziers and cassolettes diffusing a -very pleasant perfume. I found the master of all this magnificence most -courteous, affable, and engaging. There is an urbanity and good-humour -in his looks, gestures, and tone of voice, that prepossesses -instantaneously in his favour, and justifies the universal popularity he -enjoys, and the affectionate name of Father, by which the Queen and -Royal Family often address him. All the favours of the crown have been -heaped upon him by the present and preceding sovereigns, a tide of -prosperity uninterrupted even during the grand vizariat of Pombal. “Act -as you judge wisest with the rest of my nobility,” used to say the King -Don Joseph to this redoubted minister; “but beware how you interfere -with the Marquis of Marialva.” - -In consequence of this decided predilection, the Marialva Palace became -in many cases a sort of rallying point, an asylum for the oppressed; and -its master, in more than one instance, a shield against the thunderbolts -of a too powerful minister. The recollections of these times seem still -to be kept alive; for the heart-felt respect, the filial adoration, I -saw paid the old Marquis, was indeed most remarkable; his slightest -glances were obeyed, and the person on whom they fell seemed gratified -and animated; his sons, the Marquis of Tancos and Don Josè de Meneses, -never approached to offer him anything without bending the knee; and the -Conde de Villaverde, the heir of the great house of Anjeja, as well as -the Viceroy of Algarve, stood in the circle which was formed around him, -receiving a kind or gracious word with the same thankful earnestness as -courtiers who hang upon the smiles and favour of their sovereign. I -shall long remember the grateful sensations with which this scene of -reciprocal kindness filled me; it appeared an interchange of amiable -sentiments; beneficence diffused without guile or affectation, and -protection received without sullen or abject servility. - -How preferable is patriarchal government of this nature to the cold -theories pedantic sophists would establish, and which, should success -attend their selfish atheistical ravings, bid fair to undermine the best -and surest props of society! When parents cease to be honoured by their -children, and the feelings of grateful subordination in those of -helpless age or condition are unknown, kings will soon cease to reign, -and republics to be governed by the councils of experience; anarchy, -rapine, and massacre will walk the earth, and the abode of dæmons be -transferred from hell to our unfortunate planet. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the - streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the Sacrament - in awful state.--Gorgeous Procession.--Bewildering confusion of - sounds. - - -7th June. - -A most sonorous peal of bells, an alarming rattle of drums, and a -piercing flourish of trumpets, roused me at daybreak. You are too -piously disposed to be ignorant that this day is the festival of the -Corpo de Deos. I had half a mind to have stayed at home, turning over a -curious collection of Portuguese chronicles the Prior of Avis has just -sent to me; but I was told such wonders of the expected procession that -I could not refuse giving myself a little trouble in order to witness -them. - -Everybody was gone before I set out, and the streets of the suburb I -inhabit, as well as those in the city through which I passed in my way -to the patriarchal cathedral, were entirely deserted. A pestilence -seemed to have swept the Great Square and the busy environs of the -Exchange and India House; for even vagrants, scavengers, and beggars, in -the last state of decrepitude, had all hobbled away to the scene of -action. A few miserable curs sniffing at offals alone remained in the -deserted streets, and I saw no human being at any of the windows, except -half-a-dozen scabby children blubbering at being kept at home. - -The murmur of the crowds, assembled round the _patriarchale_, reached us -a long while before we got into the midst of them, for we advanced with -difficulty between rows of soldiers drawn up in battle array. Upon -turning a dark angle, overshadowed by the high buildings of the seminary -adjoining the patriarchale, we discovered houses, shops, and palaces, -all metamorphosed into tents, and hung from top to bottom with red -damask, tapestry, satin coverlids, and fringed counterpanes glittering -with gold. I thought myself in the midst of the Mogul’s encampment, so -pompously described by Bernier. - -The front of the Great Church in particular was most magnificently -curtained; it rises from a vast flight of steps, which were covered -to-day with the yeomen of the Queen’s guard in their rich -party-coloured velvet dresses, and a multitude of priests bearing a -gorgeous variety of painted and silken banners; flocks of sallow monks, -white, brown, and black, kept pouring in continually, like turkeys -driving to market. - -This part of the holy display lasting a tiresome while, I grew weary, -and left the balcony, where we were placed most advantageously, and got -into the church. High mass was performing with awful pomp, incense -ascending in clouds, and the light of innumerable tapers blazing on the -diamonds of the ostensory, just elevated by the patriarch with trembling -devout hands to receive the mysterious wafer. - -Before the close of the ceremony, I regained my window, to have a full -view of the coming forth of the Sacrament. All was expectation and -silence in the people. The guards had ranged them on each side of the -steps before the entrance of the church. At length a shower of aromatic -herbs and flowers announced the approach of the patriarch, bearing the -host under a regal canopy, surrounded by grandees, and preceded by a -long train of mitred figures, their hands joined in prayer, their -scarlet and purple vestments sweeping the ground, their attendants -bearing croziers, crosses, and other insignia of pontifical grandeur. - -The procession slowly descending the flights of stairs to the sound of -choirs and the distant thunder of artillery, lost itself in a winding -street decorated with embroidered hangings, and left me with my senses -in a whirl, and my eyes dazzled, as if awakened from a vision of -celestial splendour.... My head swims at this moment, and my ears tingle -with a confusion of sounds, bells, voices, and the echoes of cannon, -prolonged by mountains and wafted over waters. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian - wife.--Magnificent repast.--A tragic damsel. - - -11th June, 1787. - -To-day we were engaged to dine in the country at a villa belonging to a -gentleman, whose volley of names, when pronounced with the true -Portuguese twang, sounds like an expectoration--Josè Street-Arriaga-Brum -da Silveira. Our hospitable host is of Irish extraction, boasts a -stature of six feet, proportionable breadth, a ruddy countenance, -herculean legs, and all the exterior attributes, at least, of that -enterprising race, who often have the luck of marrying great fortunes. -About a year or two ago he bore off a wealthy Brazilian heiress, and is -now master of a large estate and a fubsical, squat wife, with a head not -unlike that of Holofernes in old tapestry, and shoulders that act the -part of a platter with rather too much exactitude. Poor soul! to be -sure, she is neither a Venus nor a Hebe, has a rough lip, and a manly -voice, and I fear is somewhat inclined to be dropsical; but her smiles -are frequent and fondling, and she cleaves to her husband with great -perseverance. - -He is an odd character, will accept of no employment, civil or military, -and affects a bullying frankness, that I should think must displease -very much in this country, where independence either in fortune or -sentiment is a crime seldom if ever tolerated. - -Mr. S---- likes a display, and the repast he gave us was magnificent; -sixty dishes at least, eight smoking roasts, and every ragout, French, -English, and Portuguese, that could be thought of. The dessert appeared -like the model of a fortification. The principal cake-tower measured, I -dare say, three feet perpendicular in height. The company was not equal -either in number or consequence to the splendour of the entertainment. - -Had not Miss Sill and Bezerra been luckily in my neighbourhood, I should -have perished with _ennui_. One stately damsel, with portentous -eyebrows, and looks that reproached the male part of the assembly with -inattention, was the only lady of the palace Mr. S---- had invited. - -I expected to have met the whole troop of my Botanic Garden -acquaintance, and to have escorted them about the vineyards and -citron-orchards which surround this villa; but, alas! I was not destined -to any such amusing excursion. The tragic damsel, who I am told has been -unhappy in her tender attachments, took my arm, and never quitted it -during a long walk through Mr. S----’s ample possessions. We conversed -in Italian, and paid the birds that were singing, and the rills that -were murmuring, many fine compliments in a sort of prose run mad, -borrowed from operas and serenatas, the Aminto of Tasso, and the Adone -of Marini. - -The sun was just diffusing his last rays over the distant rocks of -Cintra, the air balsamic, and the paths amongst the vines springing with -fresh herbage and a thousand flowers revived by last night’s rain. -Giving up the narrow tract which leads through these rural regions to -the signora, I stalked by her side in a furrow well garnished with -nettles, acanthus, and dwarf aloes, stinging and scratching myself at -every step. This penance, and the disappointment I was feeling most -acutely, put me not a little out of humour; I regretted so delicious an -evening should pass away in such forlorn company, and lacerating my legs -to so little purpose. How should I have enjoyed rambling with the young -Irish girl about these pleasant clover paths, between festoons of -luxuriant leaves and tendrils, not fastened to stiff poles and stumpy -stakes as in France and Switzerland, but climbing up light canes eight -or ten feet in height! - -Pinioned as I was, you may imagine I felt no inclination to prolong a -walk which already had been prolonged unconscionably. I escaped tea and -playing at voltarete, made a solemn bow to the solemn damsel, and got -home before it was quite dark. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring - Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of - exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the - Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. - - -June 12th, 1787. - -We passed the day quite _en famille_ at Belem with a whole legion of -Marialvas. Some reverend fathers, of I know not what community, had sent -them immense messes of soup, very thick, slab, and oily; a portion -which, it seems, the faithful are accustomed to swallow on the eve of -St. Anthony’s festival. - -As soon as I decently could, after a collation which was served under an -awning stretched over one of the terraces, I stole out of the circle of -lords, ladies, dwarfs, monks, buffoons, bullies, and almoners, to visit -the neighbouring monastery. I ascended the great stairs, constructed at -the expense of the Infanta Catherine, King Charles the Second’s -dowager, and after walking in the cloisters of Emanuel, looked into the -library, which is far from being in the cleanest or best ordered -condition. The spacious and lofty cloisters present a striking spread of -arches, which, though not in the purest style, attract the eye by their -delicately-carved arabesque ornament, and the warm reddish hue of the -marble. The corridor, into which open an almost endless range of cells, -is full five hundred feet in length. Each window has a commodious -resting-place, where the monks loll at their ease and enjoy the view of -the river. - -In a little dark treasury communicating by winding-stairs with that part -of the edifice tradition points out as the habitation of King Emanuel, -when at certain holy seasons he retired within these precincts, I was -shown by candlelight some extremely curious plate, particularly a -custodium, made in the year 1506, of the pure gold of Quiloa. Nothing -can be more beautiful as a specimen of elaborate gothic sculpture, than -this complicated enamelled mass of flying buttresses and fretted -pinnacles, with the twelve Apostles in their niches, under canopies -formed of ten thousand wreaths and ramifications. - -From this gloomy recess, I was conducted to the church, one of the -largest in Portugal, vast, solemn, and fantastic, like the interior of -the Temple of Jerusalem, as I have seen it figured in some old German -Bibles. There was little, however, in the altars or monuments worth any -very minute investigation. - -It fell dark before I went out at the great porch, and found the wide -space before it beginning to catch a vivid gleam from a line of bonfires -on the edge of the Tagus. I could hardly reach my carriage without being -singed by squibs and crackers, and wished myself out the moment I got -into it, a rocket having shot up just under the noses of my mules and -scared them terribly. - -Unless St. Anthony lulls me asleep by a miracle, I must expect no rest -to-night, there is such a whizzing of fireworks, blazing of bonfires and -flourishing of French horns in honour of to-morrow, the five hundred and -fifty-fifth anniversary of that memorable day, when the Holy One of -Lisbon passed by a soft transition to the joys of Paradise. I saw his -image at the door of almost every house and even hovel of this populous -capital, placed on an altar, and decked with a profusion of wax-lights -and flowers. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic - Sermon.--The good Prior of Avis.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent - of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking effigy of the - Saviour.--A young and melancholy Carthusian.--The Cemetery. - - -June 13th, 1787. - -I slept better than I expected: the Saint was propitious, and during the -night cooled the ardour of his votaries and the flames of their bonfires -by a vernal shower, which pattered agreeably this morning amongst the -vineleaves of my garden. The clouds dispersed about eight o’clock, and -at nine, just as I ascended the steps of the new church built over the -identical house where St. Anthony was born, the sun shone out in all its -splendour. - -I cannot say this edifice recalled to my mind the magnificent sanctuary -of Padua, which five years ago on this very day impressed my imagination -so forcibly. Here are no constellations of golden lamps depending by -glittering chains from a mysterious vaulted ceiling, no arcades of -alabaster, no sculptured marbles. The church is supported by two rows of -pillars neatly carved in stone, but wretchedly proportioned. Over the -high altar, where stands the revered image in the midst of a bright -illumination, was stretched a canopy of flowered velvet. This drapery, -richly fringed and tasseled, marks out the spot formerly occupied by the -chamber of the saint, and receives an amber-light from a row of tall -casement windows, the woodwork gleaming with burnished gold. - -A great many broad English faces burst forth from amongst the crowd of -profane vulgar at the portal of the church, and all their eyes were -directed to their enthusiastic countryman, but he was not to be stared -out of a decent countenance. - -The ceremony was extremely pompous. A prelate of the first rank, with a -considerable detachment of priests from the royal chapel, officiated to -the sounds of lively jigs and ranting minuets, better calculated to set -a parcel of water-drinkers a dancing in a pump-room, than to direct the -movements of a pontiff and his assistants. - -After much indifferent music, vocal and instrumental, performed full -gallop in the most rapid allegro, Frè Joaô Jacinto, a famous preacher, -mounted the pulpit, lifted up hands and eyes, and poured forth a torrent -of sounding phrases in honour of St. Anthony. What would I not give for -such a voice?--it would almost have reached from Dan unto Beersheba! - -The Father has undoubtedly great powers of elocution, and none of that -canting, nasal whine so common in the delivery of monkish sermons. He -treated kings, tetrarchs, and conquerors, the heroes and sages of -antiquity, with ineffable contempt; reduced their palaces and -fortifications to dust, their armies to pismires, their imperial -vestments to cobwebs, and impressed all his audience, except the -heretical squinters at the door, with the most thorough conviction of -St. Anthony’s superiority over these objects of an erring and impious -admiration. - -“Happy,” exclaimed the preacher, “were those gothic ages, falsely called -ages of barbarism and ignorance, when the hearts of men, uncorrupted by -the delusive beverage of philosophy, were open to the words of truth -falling like honey from the mouths of saints and confessors, such words -as distilled from the lips of Anthony, yet a suckling hanging at the -breast in this very spot. It was here the spirit of the Most High -descended upon him, here that he conceived the sublime intention of -penetrating into the most turbulent parts of Europe, setting the -inclemency of seasons and the malice of men at defiance, and sprinkling -amongst lawless nations the seeds of grace and repentance. There, my -brethren, is the door out of which he issued. Do you not see him in the -habit of a Menino de Coro, smiling with all the graces of innocence, and -dispensing with his infant hands to a group of squalid children the -portion of nourishment he has just received from his mother? - -“But Anthony, from the first dawn of his existence, lived for others, -and not for himself: he forewent even the luxury of meditation, and -instead of retiring into a peaceful cell, rushed into the world, -helpless and unprotected, lifting high the banner of the Cross amidst -perils and uproar, appeasing wars, settling differences both public and -domestic, exhorting at the risk of his life ruffians and plunderers to -make restitution, and armed misers, guarding their coffers with bloody -swords, to open their hearts and their hands to the distresses of the -widow and the fatherless. - -“Anthony ever sighed after the crown of martyrdom, and had long -entertained an ardent desire of passing over into Morocco, and exposing -himself to the fury of its bigoted and cruel sovereign; but the commands -of his superior retain him on the point of embarkation; he makes a -sacrifice of even this most laudable and glorious ambition; he traverses -Spain, repairs to Assisi, embraces the rigid order of the great St. -Francis, and continues to his last hour administering consolation to the -dejected, fortifying their hopes of heaven, and confirming the faith of -such as were wavering or deluded by a succession of prodigies. The dead -are raised, the sick are healed, the sea is calmed by a glance of St -Anthony; even the lowest ranks of the creation are attracted by -eloquence more than human, and give marks of sensibility. Fish swim in -shoals to hear the word of the Lord; and to convince the obdurate and -those accursed whose hearts the false reasoning of the world had -hardened, mules and animals the most perversely obstinate humble -themselves to the earth when Anthony holds forth the Sacrament, and -acknowledge the presence of the Divinity.” - -The sermon ended, fiddling began anew with redoubled vigour, and I, -disgusted with such unseasonable levity, retired home in dudgeon. This -little cloud of peevishness was soon dissipated by the cheering presence -of the good Prior of Avis, than whom there exists not, perhaps, in this -world a more benign, evangelical character; one who gives glory to God -with less ostentation, or bears a more unaffected goodwill towards men. -This excellent prelate had been passing his morning, not in attending -pompous ceremonies, but in consoling the sick and relieving the -indigent; climbing up to their miserable chambers to afford assistance -in the name of the saint whose festival was celebrating, and whose fame, -for every charitable beneficent act, had been handed down by the -inhabitants of Lisbon from father to child, through a long series of -generations. - -Our discourse was not of a nature to incline me to relish pomps and -vanities. I waved seeing the procession which was expected to pass -through the principal streets of the city, and, accompanied by my -reverend friend, enjoyed the serenity of the evening on the shore of -Belem. We stopped as we passed by the Marialva palace, and took up Don -Pedro and his nursing father, the old Abade, who proposed a visit to the -Carthusian convent of Cachiez. - -In about half an hour we were set down before the church, which fronts -the royal gardens, and were ushered into a solemn, silent quadrangle. -Several spectres of the order were gliding about the cloisters, which -branch off from this court. In the middle is a marble fountain, shaded -by pyramids of clipped box; around are seven or eight small chapels; one -of which contains a coloured image of the Saviour in the last dreadful -agonies of his passion, covered with livid bruises and corrupted gore. - -Whilst we were examining this too faithful effigy, some of the monks, by -leave of their superior, gathered around us; one of them, a tall -interesting figure, attracted my attention by the deep melancholy which -sat upon his features. Upon inquiry, I learned he was only -two-and-twenty years of age, of illustrious parentage, and lively -talents; but the immediate cause of his having sought these mansions of -stillness and mortification, the Grand Prior seemed loth to communicate. - -I could not help observing, as this young victim stood before me, and I -contemplated the evening light thrown on the arcades of the quadrangle, -how many setting suns he was likely to behold wasting their gleams upon -these walls, and what a wearisome succession of years he had in all -probability devoted himself to consume within their precincts. The eyes -of the good prior filled with tears, Verdeil shuddered, and the Abade, -forgetting the superstitious part he generally acts in religious places, -exclaimed loudly against the toleration of human sacrifices, and the -folly of permitting those to renounce the world, whose youth -incapacitates them from making a due estimate of its sorrows or -advantages. As for Don Pedro, his serious disposition received -additional gloom from the objects with which we were environed. - -The chill gust that blew from an arched hall where the fathers are -interred, and whose pavement returned a hollow sound as we walked over -it, struck him with horror. It was the first time of his entering a -Carthusian convent, and, to my surprise, he appeared ignorant of the -severities of the order. - -The sun set before we regained our carriage, and our conversation the -whole way home partook of the impression which the scenery we had been -contemplating inspired. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor - Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit to the - Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.--The Archbishop - Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching nature of that - music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm of the young Conde de - Villanova.--No accounting for fancies. - - -14th June, 1787. - -It was my lot this afternoon to receive a curious succession of -visitors. First came Pombal, who looked worn down with gay living and -late hours; but there is an ease and fashion in his address not common -in this country. Though he possesses one of the largest landed estates -in the kingdom, (about one hundred and twenty thousand crowns a-year,) -he wished me to understand that his dread father, the scourge and terror -of the noblest houses in Portugal, the sole dispenser during so many -years of the royal treasure, died, notwithstanding, in distressed -circumstances, loaded with debts contracted in supporting the dignity -of his post. - -The next who did me the honour of a visit was the Judge Conservator of -the English factory, Joaô Telles, a relation, legitimate or illegitimate -(I know not exactly which), of the Penalvas. This man, who has risen to -one of the highest posts of the law by the sole strength of his -abilities, has a nervous, original style of expression, which put me in -mind of Lord Thurlow; but to all this vigour of character and diction, -he joins the pliability and subtleness of a serpent; and those he cannot -take by storm, he is sure of overcoming by every soothing art of -flattery and insinuation. - -As soon as he was departed, entered a pair of monks with a basket of -sweetmeats in cut paper, from a good lady abbess, beseeching me to -portion out two sweet virgins as God’s spouses in some neighbouring -monastery. - -They were scarcely dismissed, before Father Theodore d’Almeida and -another of his brethren were ushered in. The whites of their eyes alone -were visible, nor could Whitfield himself, the original Doctor Squintum -of Foote, have squinted more scientifically. - -I was all attention to Father Theodore’s seraphic discourse; so -excellent an opportunity of hearing a first-rate specimen of -hypocritical cant was not to be neglected. No sooner had the fathers -been conducted to the stairshead with due ceremony, than Monsenhor -Aguilar, one of the prelates of the Patriarchal Cathedral, was -announced. He confirmed me in the opinion I entertained of Father -Theodore. No person can accuse Aguilar of being a hypocrite. He lays -himself but too much open, and treats the church from which he derives a -handsome maintenance, not as a patroness, but as an humble companion; -the constant butt and object of his sarcasms. In Portugal, even in the -year 1787, such conduct is madness, and I fear will expose him one day -or other to severe persecution. - -We were roused from a peaceful dish of tea by a loud hubbub in the -street, and running to the balcony, found a beastly mob of old hags, -children, and ragamuffins assembled, headed by half-a-dozen drummers, -and as many negroes in scarlet jackets, blowing French-horns with -unusual vehemence, and pointing them directly at the house. I was -wondering at this Jericho fashion of besieging one’s door, and drawing -back to avoid being singed by a rocket which whizzed along within an -inch of my nose, when one of the servants entered with a crucifix on a -silver salver, and a mighty kind message from the nuns of the Convent of -the Sacrament, who had sent their musicians with trimbrels and -fireworks, to invite us to some grand doings at their convent, in honour -of the Festival of the Heart of Jesus. Really, these church parties -begin to lose in my eyes great part of the charm which novelty gave -them. I have had pretty nearly my fill of motets, and Kyrie eleisons, -and incense, and sweetmeats, and sermons. - -That heretic Verdeil, who would almost as soon be in hell at once as in -such a cloying heaven, would not let me rest till I went with him to the -theatre in the Rua d’os Condes, in order to dissipate by a little -profane air the fumes of so much holiness. The play afforded me more -disgust than amusement; the theatre is low and narrow, and the actors, -for there are no actresses, below criticism. Her Majesty’s absolute -commands having swept females off the stage, their parts are acted by -calvish young fellows. Judge what a pleasing effect this metamorphosis -must produce, especially in the dancers, where one sees a stout -shepherdess in virgin white, with a soft blue beard, and a prominent -collar-bone, clenching a nosegay in a fist that would almost have -knocked down Goliah, and a train of milk-maids attending her enormous -foot-steps, tossing their petticoats over their heads at every step. -Such sprawling, jerking, and ogling I never saw before, and hope never -to see again. - -We were heartily sick of the performance before it was half finished, -and the night being serene and pleasant, were tempted to take a ramble -in the Great Square, which received a faint gleam from the lights in the -apartments of the palace, every window being thrown open to catch the -breeze. The Archbishop Confessor displayed his goodly person at one of -the balconies; from a clown, this now most important personage became a -common soldier, from a common soldier a corporal, from a corporal a -monk, in which station he gave so many proofs of toleration and -good-humour, that Pombal, who happened to stumble upon him by one of -those chances which set all calculation at defiance, judged him -sufficiently shrewd, jovial, and ignorant, to make a very harmless and -comfortable confessor to her Majesty, then Princess of Brazil: since her -accession to the throne, he is become Archbishop, _in partibus_, Grand -Inquisitor, and the first spring in the present Government of Portugal. -I never saw a sturdier fellow. He seems to anoint himself with the oil -of gladness, to laugh and grow fat in spite of the critical situation of -affairs in this kingdom, and the just fears all its true patriots -entertain of seeing it once more relapse into a Spanish province. - -At a window immediately over his right reverence’s shining forehead, we -spied out the Lacerdas, two handsome sisters, maids of honour to the -Queen, waving their hands to us very invitingly. This was encouragement -enough for us to run up a vast many flights of stairs to their -apartment, which was crowded with nephews and nieces and cousins -clustering round two very elegant young women, who, accompanied by their -singing-master, a little square friar, with greenish eyes, were warbling -Brazilian modinhas. - -Those who have never heard this original sort of music, must and will -remain ignorant of the most bewitching melodies that ever existed since -the days of the Sybarites. They consist of languid interrupted measures, -as if the breath was gone with excess of rapture, and the soul panting -to meet the kindred soul of some beloved object. With a childish -carelessness they steal into the heart, before it has time to arm itself -against their enervating influence; you fancy you are swallowing milk, -and are admitting the poison of voluptuousness into the closest recesses -of your existence. At least, such beings as feel the power of harmonious -sounds are doing so; I won’t answer for hard-eared, phlegmatic northern -animals. - -An hour or two passed away almost imperceptibly in the pleasing delirium -these syren notes inspired, and it was not without regret I saw the -company disperse and the spell dissolve. The ladies of the apartment -having received a summons to attend her Majesty’s supper, curtsied us -off very gracefully, and vanished. - -In our way home we met the Sacrament, enveloped in a glare of light, -marching in state to pay some sick person a farewell visit; and that -hopeful young nobleman, the Conde de Villa Nova,[13] preceding the -canopy in a scarlet mantle, and tinkling a silver bell. He is always in -close attendance upon the Host, and passes the flower of his days in -this singular species of danglement. No lover was ever more jealous of -his mistress than this ingenuous youth of his bell. He cannot endure any -other person should give it vibration. The parish officers of the -extensive and populous district in which his palace is situated, from -respect to his birth and opulence, indulge him in this caprice, and -indeed a more perseverant bell-bearer they could not have chosen. At all -hours and in all weathers he is ready to perform this holy office. In -the dead of the night, or in the most intense heat of the day, out he -issues and down he dives, or up he climbs, to any dungeon or garret -where spiritual assistance of this nature is demanded. - -It has been again and again observed, that there is no accounting for -fancies. Every person has his own, which he follows to the best of his -means and abilities. The old Marialva’s delights are centered between -his two silver recipiendaries; the Marquis his son in dancing attendance -with the Queen; and Villa Nova, in announcing with his bell to all true -believers the approach of celestial majesty. The present rage of the -scribbler of all these extravagances is modinhas, and under its -prevalence he feels half-tempted to set sail for the Brazils, the native -land of these enchanting compositions, to live in tents, such as the -Chevalier de Parny describes in his agreeable little voyage, and swing -in hammocks, or glide over smooth mats surrounded by bands of youthful -minstrels, diffusing at every step the perfume of jasmine and roses. - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night sounds of the city.--Public - gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja - Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous narrations of a young - priest.--Convent of Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore’s - chickens.--Sequestered group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. - - -29th June, 1787. - -The bright sunshine which has lately been our portion, glorious as it -is, begins to tire me. Twenty times a day I cannot help wishing myself -extended at full-length upon the fresh herbage of some shady English -valley, where fairies gambol in the twilights of Midsummer, whispering -in the ears of their sleeping favourites the good or evil fortunes which -await them. It is too hot for these oracular little elvish beings in -Portugal, one must not here expect their inspirations; but would to -Heaven some revelation of this or any other nature had warned me off in -time, from the blinding dust and excessive sultriness of Lisbon and its -neighbourhood. How silly, when one is well and cool, to gad abroad, in -the vain hope of making what is really best, better. Depend upon it, -there is more vernal delight and joy in our green hills and copses, than -in all these stunted olive fields and sun-burnt promontories. - -We have a homely saying, that what is poison to one man is meat to -another, and true enough; for these days and nights of glowing -temperature, which oppress me beyond endurance, are the delight and -boast of the inhabitants of this capital. The heat seems not only to -have new venomed the stings of the fleas and the musquitoes, but to have -drawn out, the whole night long, all the human ephemera of Lisbon. They -frisk, and dance, and tinkle their guitars from sunset to sunrise. The -dogs, too, keep yelping and howling without intermission; and what with -the bellowing of litanies by parochial processions, the whizzing of -fireworks, which devotees are perpetually letting off in honour of some -member or other of the celestial hierarchy, and the squabbles of -bullying rake-hells, who scour the streets in search of adventures, -there is no getting a wink of sleep, even if the heat would allow it. - -As to those quiet nocturnal parties, where ingenuous youths rest their -heads, not on the lap of earth, but on that of their mistresses, who are -soothingly employed in delivering the jetty locks of their lovers from -too abundant a population, I have nothing to say against them, nor am I -much disturbed by the dashing sound of a few downfalls[14] from the -windows; but these dog-howlings exceed every annoyance of the kind I -ever endured, and give no slight foretaste of the infernal regions. - -Nothing but amusement and racket being thought of here at this season -(when to celebrate St. Peter’s festival with all the noise and -extravagance in your power, is not more a profane inclination than a -pious duty,) that simpleton, the Conde de Villa Nova, opened his garden -last night to the nob and mob-ility of Lisbon. There was a dull -illumination of paper lanterns, and a sort of pavilion awkwardly -constructed for dancing, beneath which the prettiest French and English -mantua-makers, milliners, and abigails of the metropolis, figured away -in cotillons with the Duke of Cadaval and some other young men of the -first distinction, who, like many as hopeful in our own capital, are -never at their ease but in low company. Two or three of my servants -accompanied my tailor to the fête, and returned enraptured with the -affable pleasing manners of the foreign milliners and native nobility. - -I should have been most happy to remain at home, in the shade of my -green blinds, giving ear, through mere laziness, to any nonsense that -anybody chose to say to me; but we had been long engaged to dine with -Don Diego de Noronha, at the Anjeja Palace. - -When we arrived at our destination, we found the heir of the family -surrounded by priests and tutors, learning to look out at the window, -the chief employment of Portuguese fidalgo life. Oh what a precious -collection of stories did I hear at this attic banquet! There happened -to be amongst the company a young oaf of a priest, from I forget what -university (I hope not Coimbra), who kept on during the whole dinner -favouring us with marvellous narrations, such as the late Queen’s -pounding a pearl of inestimable value, to swallow in medical potions; -and that one of the nuns of the Convent of the Sacrament, having -intrigued with old Beelzebub _in propria persona_, had been sent to the -Inquisition, and the window through which his infernal majesty had -entered upon this gallant exploit, walled up and painted over with red -crosses. The same precautionary decoration, continued he, has been -bestowed upon every opening in the façade, so that no demon, however -sharp-set, can get in again. He would fain also have made us believe, -that a woman very fair and plump to the eye, with an overflowing breast -of milk, who took in sucklings to nurse cheaper than anybody else, -regularly made away with them, and was now in the dungeons of the holy -office, accused of having minced up above a score of innocents! - -Heaven forbid I should detail any further particulars of our -table-talk; if I did, you would be finely surfeited. - -After dinner the company dispersed, some to their couches, some to hear -a sonata on the dulcimer, accompanied on the jew’s harp by a couple of -dwarfs; the heir-apparent to his beloved window; and Verdeil and I to a -convent of Savoyard nuns, at Belem, the coolest, cleanest retirement in -the whole neighbourhood, and blessed into the bargain by the especial -patronage and inspection of Father Theodore d’Almeida. His reverence, it -seems, had been the principal instrument, under Providence, of -transplanting these blessed sprouts of holiness from the Convent of the -Visitation at Annecy to the glowing climate of Portugal. - -As I had just received a sugary epistle from this paragon of piety, -recommending his favourite establishment in several pages of ardent -panegyric, he could do no less than come forth from his interior nest, -and bid us welcome with a countenance arrayed in the sweetest smiles, -though I dare say he wished us at old scratch for our intrusion. - -“Poor things,” said he, speaking of the chickens under education in this -coop, “we do all we can to improve their tender minds and their -guileless tongues in foreign languages. Sister Theresa has an admirable -knack for teaching arithmetic; our venerable mother is remarkably -well-bottomed in grammar, and Sister Francisca Salesia, whom I had the -happiness to bring over from Lyons, is not only a most pure and -persuasive moralist, but is acknowledged to be one of the first needles -in Christendom, so we do tolerably well in embroidery. In music we are -no great proficients. We allow of no modinhas, no opera airs; a plain -hymn is all you must expect here; in short, we are ill-fitted to receive -such distinguished visiters, and have nothing the world would call -interesting to recommend us; but then, I, their unworthy confessor, must -allow that such sweet, clean consciences as I meet with in this asylum -are treasures beyond all that the Indies can furnish.” - -Both Verdeil and myself, conscious of our own extreme unworthiness, were -quite abashed by this sublime declamation, poured forth with hands -crossed on the bosom, and eyes turned up to the ceiling, like some -images one has seen of St. Ignatius or St. Francis Xavier. - -It was a minute at least before his reverence relaxed from this -attitude, and, drawing a curtain, condescended to admit us into a -spacious parlour, delightfully cool, perfumed with jasmine, and filled -with little Brazilian doves, parroquets, and canary birds. Such a cooing -and chirping was never heard in greater perfection, except in Mahomet’s -Paradise; nor were the houries wanting, for in a deep recess, behind a -tolerably wide lattice, sat a row of the loveliest young creatures I -ever beheld. A daughter of my friend Don Josè de Brito was amongst the -number, and her eyes, of the most bewitching softness, seemed to acquire -new fascination in this mysterious sort of twilight, beaming from behind -a double grating of iron. - -Every now and then the birds, not in the least intimidated by the -predatory glances of Father Theodore, violated the sanctuary, and -pitched upon ivory necks, and were received with ten thousand -endearments by the angels of this little sequestered heaven, which -looked so refreshing, and formed by its sacred calm so inviting a -contrast to the turbulent world without, and its glaring atmosphere, -that I could not resist exclaiming, “O that I had wings like a dove, -that I might fly through those bars and be at rest!” - -I need not tell you we passed half-an-hour most delightfully in talking -of music, gardens, roses, and devotion, with the meninas, and had almost -forgotten we were engaged to hear the Scarlati sing. Her father, an old -captain of horse, of Italian extraction, lives not far from the Convent -of the Visitation, so we had not much time during our transit to -experience the woful difference between the cool parlour of the nuns and -the suffocating exterior air. - -A numerous group of the young ladies’ kindred stood ready at the -street-door, with all that hospitable courtesy for which the Portuguese -are so remarkably distinguished, to usher the strangers up-stairs into a -gallery hung with arras and sconces, not unlike the great room of an -Italian inn, once the palace of a nobleman. To keep up these post-house -ideas, we scented a strong effluvia of the stable, and heard certain -stampings and neighings, as if a party of hounnyms had arrived to -partake of the concert. - -Many strange, aboriginal figures of both sexes were assembled, an -uncouth collection enough, I am apt to conjecture; however, I soon -ceased giving them any notice. The young lady of the house charmed me at -first sight by her graceful, modest manner; but when she sang some airs, -composed by the famous Perez, I was not less delighted than surprised. -Her voice modulates with unaffected carelessness into the most pathetic -tones.[15] Though she has adopted the masterly and scientific style of -Ferracuti, one of the first singers in the Queen’s service, she gives a -simplicity of expression to the most difficult passages, that makes them -appear the effusions of a young romantic girl warbling to herself in the -secret recesses of a forest. - -I sat in a dark corner, unconscious of every thing that passed in the -apartment, of the singular figures that entered, or those that went -away; the starings, whisperings, and fan-flirtings of the assembly were -lost upon me: I could not utter a syllable, and was vexed when an -arbitrary old aunt insisted upon no more singing, and proposed a -faro-table and a dance. - -Most eagerly did I wish all the kindred and their friends petrified for -the time being by some obliging necromancer, and would have done any -thing, short of engaging my own dear self to the devil, to have obtained -an uninterrupted audience of the syren till morning. - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of - Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the - Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famous - Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.--Their - ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese minuets. - - -30th June, 1787. - -...We sallied out after dinner to pay visits. Never did I behold such -cursed ups-and-downs, such shelving descents and sudden rises, as occur -at every step one takes in going about Lisbon. I thought myself fifty -times on the point of being overturned into the Tagus, or tumbled into -sandy ditches, among rotten shoes, dead cats, and negro beldames, who -retire into such dens and burrows for the purpose of telling fortunes -and selling charms for the ague. - -The Inquisition too often lays hold of these wretched sibyls, and works -them confoundedly. I saw one dragging into light as I passed by the -ruins of a palace thrown down by the earthquake. Whether a familiar of -the Inquisition was griping her in his clutches, or whether she was -being taken to account by some disappointed votary, I will not pretend -to answer. Be that as it may, I was happy to be driven out of sight of -this hideous object, whose contortions and howlings were truly horrible. - -The more one is acquainted with Lisbon, the less it answers the -expectations raised by its magnificent appearance from the river. Could -a traveller be suddenly transported without preparation or prejudice to -many parts of this city, he would reasonably conclude himself traversing -a succession of villages awkwardly tacked together, and overpowered by -massive convents. The churches in general are in a woful taste of -architecture, the taste of Borromini, with crinkled pediments, -furbelowed cornices and turrets, somewhat in the style of old-fashioned -French clock-cases, such as Boucher designed with many a scrawl and -flourish to adorn the apartments of Madame de Pompadour. - -We traversed the city this evening in all its extent in our way to the -Duke d’Alafoens’s villa, and gave vast numbers of her most faithful -Majesty’s subjects an opportunity of staring at the height of the -coach-box, the short jacket of the postilion, and other Anglicisms of -the equipage. The Duke had been summoned to a council of state; but we -found the Marquis of Marialva, who went with us round the apartments of -the villa, which have nothing remarkable except one or two large saloons -of excellent and striking proportions. - -He afterwards proposed accompanying us about half-a-mile farther to the -quinta of Marvilla, which belongs to his father. This spot has great -picturesque beauties. The trees are old and fantastic, bending over -ruined fountains and mutilated statues of heroes in armour, variegated -by the lapse of years with innumerable tints of purple, green, and -yellow. In the centre of almost impenetrable thickets of bay and myrtle, -rise strange pyramids of rock-work surrounded by marble lions, that have -a magic, symbolical appearance. M---- has feeling enough to respect -these uncouth monuments of an age when his ancestors performed so many -heroic achievements, and readily promised me never to sacrifice them and -the venerable shades in which they are embowered, to the pert, gaudy -taste of modern Portuguese gardening. - -We walked part of the way home by the serene light of the full moon -rising from behind the mountains on the opposite shore of the Tagus, at -this extremity of the metropolis above nine miles broad. Lisbon, which -appeared to me so uninteresting a few hours ago, assumed a very -different aspect by these soft gleams. The flights of steps, terraces, -chapels, and porticos of several convents and palaces on the brink of -the river, shone forth like edifices of white marble, whilst the rough -cliffs and miserable sheds rising above them were lost in dark shadows. -The great square through which we passed was filled with idlers of all -sorts and sexes, staring up at the illuminated windows of the palace in -hopes of catching a glimpse of her Majesty, the Prince, the Infantas, -the Confessor, or Maids of Honour, whisking about from one apartment to -the other, and giving ample scope to amusing conjectures. I am told the -Confessor, though somewhat advanced in his career, is far from being -insensible to the allurements of beauty, and pursues the young nymphs of -the palace from window to window with juvenile alacrity. - -It was nine before we got home, and I had not been long reposing myself -after my walk, and arranging some plants I had gathered in the thickets -of Marvilla, before three distinct ringings of the bell at my door -announced the arrival of some distinguished personage; nor was I -disappointed, for in came the old Marquis of Penalva and his son, who -till a year ago, when the Queen granted him the same title as his -father, was called Conde de Tarouca. - -You must have heard frequently of that name. A grandfather of the old -Marquis rendered it very illustrious by several important and successful -embassies: the splendid entertainments he gave at the Congress of -Utrecht, are amply described in Madame du Noyers and several other books -of memoirs. - -The Penalvas brought this evening in their suite a famous Jesuit, Padre -Duarte, whom Pombal thought of sufficient consequence to be imprisoned -for eighteen years, and a tall, knock-kneed, rhubarb-faced physician, -in a gorgeous suit of glistening satin, one of the most ungain, -conceited professors of the art of murdering I ever met with. Between -the Jesuit and the doctor I had enough to do to keep my temper or -countenance. They prated incessantly, pretended to have the most -implicit admiration for everything that came from England, either in the -way of furniture or poetry, and confounding dates, names, and subjects -in one strange jumble, asked whether Sir Peter Lely was not the actual -President of our Royal Academy, and launched forth into a warm encomium -of my countryman Hans Holbein. I begged leave to assure these -complaisant sages, that the last-mentioned artist was born at Basle, and -that Sir Peter Lely had been dead a century. They stared a little at -this information, but continued, nevertheless, in full song, playing off -a sounding peal of compliments upon our national proficiency in -painting, watch-making, the stocking-manufactory, &c. when General -Forbes came in and made a diversion in my favour. We had some -conversation upon the present state of Portugal, and the risks it runs -of being swallowed up by the negotiations, not by the arms of Spain, -ere many years are elapsed.... - -Our discourse was interrupted by the arrival of a fiddler, a priest, and -an Italian musician, humble servants and toad-eaters to my illustrious -guests. They fell a thumping my poor piano-forte, and playing sonatas -whether I would or not. You are aware I am no great friend to sonatas, -and that certain chromatic, squeaking tones of a fiddle, when the -performer turns up the whites of his eyes, waggles a greasy chin, and -affects ecstasies, set my teeth on edge. The griping countenance of the -doctor was enough to produce that effect already, without the assistance -of his fellow parasites, the priest and musician. Padre Duarte seemed to -like them no better than myself; General Forbes had wisely withdrawn; -and the old Marquis, inspired by a pathetic adagio, glided suddenly -across the room in a step which I took for the beginning of a ballet -heroique, but which turned out a minuet in the Portuguese style, with -all its kicks and flourishes, in which Miss S----, who had come in to -tea, was persuaded to join much against her inclination. It was no -sooner ended, than the doctor displayed his rueful length of person in -such a twitching angular minuet, as I want words to describe; so, -between the sister-arts of music and dancing, I passed a delectable -evening. This set shan’t catch me at home again in a hurry. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Josè di - Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and - hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious - chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening scene in the garden of - Marvilla. - - -July 2nd, 1787. - -I was awakened in the night by a horrid cry of dogs; not that infernal -pack which Dryden tells us in his divine tale of Theodore and Honoria -went regularly a ghost-hunting every Friday, howled half so dreadfully: -Lisbon is more infested than any other capital I ever inhabited by herds -of these half-famished animals, making themselves of use and importance -by ridding the streets of some part, at least, of their unsavoury -incumbrances. - -Verdeil, who could not sleep any more than myself, on account of a -furious and long protracted battle between two parties of these -hell-hounds, persuaded me to rise with the sun, and proceed on -horseback along the shore of Belem, which appeared in all its morning -glory; the sky diversified by streaming clouds of purple edged with -gold, and the sea by innumerable vessels of different sizes shooting -along in various directions, whilst the waves at the entrance of the -harbour were in violent agitation, all froth and foam. - -To vary our excursion a little, we struck out of the common track, and -visited the convent of San Josè di Ribamar. The building is irregular -and picturesque, rising from a craggy eminence, and backed by a thicket -of elm, bay, and arbor judæ. We were shown by simple, smiling friars, -into a small court with cloisters, supported by low Tuscan columns. A -fountain playing in the middle and sprinkling a profusion of flowers, -gave an oriental air to this little court that pleased me exceedingly. -The monks seem sensible of its merits, for they keep it tolerably clean, -which is more than I will say for their garden. Bindweed and dwarf-aloes -almost prevented our crossing it in our way to the thicket; a delicious -retreat, the refuge and comfort of half the birds in the country. Thanks -to monkish laziness, the underwood remains unclipped, and intrudes -wherever it pleases upon the alleys, which hang over the sea, in a bold -romantic manner. - -The fathers would show me their flower-garden, and a very pleasant -terrace it is; neatly paved with chequered tiles, and interspersed with -knots of carnations, in a style as ancient, I should conjecture, as the -dominion of the Moors in Portugal. Espaliers of citron and orange cover -the walls, and have almost gotten the better of some glaring shell-work, -with which a reverend father encrusted them ten or twelve years ago. -Shining beads, china plates and saucers turned inside out, compose the -chief ornaments of this decoration; I observed the same propensity to -shell-work and broken china in a Mr. de Visme, whose quinta at Bemfica -eclipses our Clapham and Islington villas in all the attractions of -leaden statues, Chinese temples, serpentine rivers, and dusty -hermitages. - -We returned home before the heat grew quite intolerable, and just in -time to go to a breakfast at the Marquis of Penalva’s, to which we had -been invited the day before yesterday. When once a Portuguese of the -first class determines to admit a stranger into the penetralia of his -family, he spares no pains to set off all he possesses to the most -striking advantage, and offer it to his guest with the most liberal -hospitality; you appear to command him, and he everything. Our -reception, therefore, was most sumptuous and most cordial. - -If we had wished for a concert, the best musicians of the royal chapel -were in waiting to perform it; if to examine early editions of the -classics or scarce Portuguese authors, the library was open, and the -librarian ready to hand and explain to us any article that happened to -attract our attention; if to see pictures, the walls of several -apartments displayed an interesting collection, both of the Italian and -Flemish schools; if conversation, almost every person of literary note -in this capital, academicians and artists, were assembled. Supposing the -rarest botanical specimens and flowers had been our peculiar taste, some -of the most perfect I ever beheld were presented to us; and that nothing -in any line might be wanting, the rich grated folding-doors of a chapel -were expanded, and an altar splendidly lighted up, seemed to invite -those who felt spiritual calls, to indulge themselves. - -For my part, the sea breezes having sharpened my temporal appetite, I -sat down with great alacrity to breakfast. It was magnificent and well -served. I could not help noticing the extreme fineness of the linen, -curiously embroidered with arms and flowers, red on a white ground. -Superb embossed gilt salvers supported plates of iced fruit, -particularly scarlet strawberries, which are uncommon in Portugal, and -filled the apartment with fragrance; the more grateful, as it excited, -by the strong power of associated ideas, recollections of home and of -England. - -Much whispering and giggling was going forward in the cool shade of -several mysterious chambers, which opened into the saloon where we were -at table. These sounds proceeded from the ladies of the family, who, had -they been natives of Bagdad or Constantinople, could hardly have -remained in a more Asiatic state of seclusion. I was allowed, however, -to make my bow to them in their harem itself, which, I was given to -understand, I ought to look upon as a most flattering mark of -distinction. Who should I find in the midst of the group of senhoras, -and seated like them upon the ground _à la façon de Barbarie_, but the -newly-consecrated, and very young-looking Bishop of Algarve, whose -small, black, sleek, schoolboyish head and sallow countenance, was -overshadowed by an enormous pair of green spectacles. Truth obliges me -to confess that the expression which beamed from the eyes under these -formidable glasses, did not absolutely partake of the most decent, mild, -or apostolic character. In process of time, perhaps, he may acquire that -varnish, without which the least holy intentions often miss their aim, -the varnish of hypocrisy. I wonder he has not already attained a more -conspicuous degree of perfection in this style, having studied under a -complete _tartuffe_ and Jansenistical bigot as ever existed, one of the -cock-birds of a nest of imaginary philosophers, who are working hard to -undo what little good has been done in this country, and laying a mine -of ten thousand intrigues to blow up, if they can but contrive it, all -genuine sentiments of religion and morality. - -The old Marquis of Penalva pressed us to stay dinner, which was set out -in high order, in a pleasant, shady apartment. Verdeil could not resist -the temptation; but I was fatigued with the howlings of the night, and -the sultriness and bustle of the day, and went home to a quieter party -with the Grand Prior and Don Pedro. - -In the evening we drove to Marvilla, the neglected garden I have before -mentioned, and which commands the broadest expanse of the Tagus, a -prospect which recalled to my mind the lake of Geneva, and all that -befel me on its banks. You may imagine, then, it tended much more to -depress than exhilarate my spirits. I consented, however, to accompany -the Grand Prior about the alleys and terraces of this romantic -enclosure, the scene of his childhood, and of which he is peculiarly -fond. The palace, courts, and fountains are almost in ruins, the -parterres of myrtle have shot up into wild bushes covered with blossoms, -and the statues are half concealed by jasmine. - -Here is a small theatre for operas, and a chapel, not unlike a mosque in -shape, and arabesque ornaments, darkly shadowed by Spanish banners, the -trophies of the battle of Elvas, gained by an ancestor of the Marialvas. - -A long bower of vines, supported by marble pillars, leads from the -palace to the chapel. There is something majestic in this verdant -gallery, and the glow of sun-set piercing its foliage, lighted up the -wan features of several superannuated servants of the family, who -crawled out of their decayed chambers and threw themselves on their -knees before the Grand Prior and Don Pedro. - -We wandered about this forlorn, abandoned garden, whose stillness -equalled that of a Carthusian convent, till dusk, when a refreshing wind -having risen, waved the cypresses and scattered the white jasmine -flowers over the parterres of myrtle in clouds like snow. Don Pedro -filled the carriage with flowery sprays pulled from mutilated statues, -and we were all half intoxicated before we reached my habitation with -the delicious but overcoming perfume. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalhaô.--The - Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion designed by Pillement.--A convulsive - gallop.--Cold weather in July. - - -July 9th, 1787. - -I was at the Marialva Palace by nine, and set off from thence with the -Marquis for Cintra. Having the command of the Queen’s stables, in which -are four thousand mules and two thousand horses, he orders as many -relays as he pleases, and we changed mules four times in the space of an -hour. - -A few minutes after ten we were landed at Ramalhaô, a villa, under the -pyramidical rocks of Cintra, Signor S. Arriaga was so kind as to lend me -a month or two ago, and which I have not had time to visit till to-day. -The suite of apartments are spacious and airy, and the views they -command of sea and arid country boundless; but unless the heat becomes -more violent, I shall be cooler than I wish in them, as they contain -not a chimney except in the kitchen. - -I found the garden in excellent order, and flourishing crops of -vegetables springing up between rows of orange and citron. Such is the -power of the climate, that the gardenias and Cape plants I brought with -me from England, mere stumps, are covered with beautiful blossoms. The -curled mallows, and some varieties of Indian-corn, sown by my English -gardener, have shot up to a strange elevation, and begin already to form -shady avenues and fairy forests, where children might play in perfection -at landscape-gardening. - -After I had passed half-an-hour in looking about me, the Marquis and I -got into our chair and drove to his own villa; a new creation, which has -cost him a great many thousand pounds sterling. Five years ago it was a -wild hill bestrewn with flints and rocky fragments. At present you find -a gay pavilion designed by Pillement, and elegantly decorated; a -parterre with statues and fountains, thick alleys of laurel, bay, and -laurustine, cascades, arbours, clipped box-trees, and every ornament the -Portuguese taste in gardening renders desirable. - -We dined at a clean snug inn, situated towards the middle of the village -of Cintra. The Queen has lately bestowed this house and a large tract of -ground adjoining it, upon the Marquis. From its windows and loggias you -look down deep ravines and bold slopes of woods and copses, variegated -with mossy stones and ancient decayed chesnuts. - -As soon as the sun grew low we went to Collares, and walked on a terrace -belonging to M. la Roche, a French merchant, who has shown some -glimmering of taste in the laying out of his villa. The groves of pine -and chesnut starting from the crevices of rock, and rising one above -another to a considerable elevation, give Collares the air of an Alpine -village. Innumerable rills, overhung by cork-trees and branching lemons, -burst out of ruined walls by the wayside, and dash into marble basins. A -favourite attendant of the late king’s, who has a very large property in -these environs, invited us with much civility and obsequiousness into -his garden. I thought myself entering the orchards of Alcinous. The -boughs literally bent under loads of fruit; the slightest shake strewed -the ground with plums, oranges, and apricots. - -This villa boasts a grand artificial cascade, with tritons and dolphins -vomiting torrents of water; but I paid it not half the attention its -proprietor expected, and retiring under the shade of the fruit-trees, -feasted on the golden apples and purple plums that were rolling about me -in such profusion. The Marquis, who shares with most of the Portuguese a -remarkable predilection for flowers, filled his carriage with carnations -and jasmine. I never saw plants more conspicuous for size and vigour -than those which have the luck of being sown in this fortunate soil. The -exposition likewise is singularly happy; skreened by sloping hills, and -defended from the sea-airs by several miles of thickets and orchards. I -felt unwilling to quit a spot so favoured by nature, and M---- flatters -himself I shall be tempted to purchase it. - -The wind became troublesome as we ascended the hill, crowned by the -Marialva villa. The sky was clear and the sun set fiery. The distant -convent of Mafra, glowing with ruddy light, looked like the enchanted -palace of a giant, and the surrounding country bleak and barren as if -the monster had eaten it desolate. To repose ourselves a little after -our rapid excursion we entered the pavilion I told you just now -Pillement had designed. It represents a bower of fantastic Indian trees -mingling their branches, and discovering between them peeps of a summer -sky. From the mouth of a flying dragon depends a magnificent lustre for -fifty lights, hung with festoons of brilliant glass, that twinkle like -strings of diamonds. - -We loitered in this saloon till it was pitch-dark. The pages riding full -speed before us with flaming torches, and the wind driving back sparks -and smoke full in our faces, I was stunned and bewildered, and -experienced, perhaps, the sensations of a novice in sorcery, mounted for -the first time behind a witch on a broomstick. In less than an hour we -had rattled over twelve miles of rough, disjoined pavement, going up and -down the steepest hills in a convulsive gallop, so that I expected every -instant to be thrown flat on my nose; but, happily, the mules were -picked from perhaps a hundred, and never stumbled. I found the air on -the heights above the Ajueda very keen and piercing. - -It sounds strange to be complaining of cold at Lisbon on the ninth of -July. - - - - -LETTER XIX. - - Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir - of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty - terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.--The - Chapel.--Barbaric profusion of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian - knelt when he received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in - preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalhaô. - - -July 24th, 1787. - -There exists, I am convinced, a decided sympathy between toads and -witch-like old women. Mother Morgan[16] descended this morning, not into -the infernal regions, but into the cellar, and immediately five or six -spanking reptiles of this mysterious species waddled around her. She -rewarded the confidence the poor things placed in her rather scurvily, -and laid three of the fattest sprawling. I saw them lying breathless in -the court as I got on horseback; the largest measured seven inches in -diameter. Portuguese toads may be more distinguished for size, but are -not half so amiably speckled as those we have the happiness to harbour -in England. - -I was some time hesitating which way I should turn my horse’s steps, -whether to the Pedra d’os Ovos, or on the other side of the rock to the -Peninha, a cell belonging to the Hieronimites, and dependent upon their -principal eyry, Nossa Senhora da Penha. Marialva, whom I met with all -his train of equerries and picadors coming forth from his villa, decided -me not to take a clambering ride, but to accompany him to the palace, -the interior of which I had not yet visited. - -The Alhambra itself is scarcely more morisco in point of architecture -than this confused pile, which seems to grow out of the summit of a -rocky eminence, and is broken into a variety of picturesque recesses and -projections. It is a thousand pities that they have whitened its -venerable walls, stopped up a range of bold arcades, and sliced out one -end of the great hall into two or three mean apartments like the -dressing-rooms of a theatre. From the windows, which are all in a -fantastic oriental style, crinkled and crankled, and supported by -twisted pillars of smooth marble, striking, romantic views of the cliffs -and village of Cintra are commanded. Several irregular courts and -loggias, formed by the angles of square towers, are enlivened by -fountains of marble and gilt bronze, continually pouring forth abundant -streams of the purest water. - -A sort of reservoir, almost long enough to be styled a canal, is -continued the whole length of the great hall, and serves as a paradise -for shoals of the largest and most brilliant gold and silver fish I ever -set eyes upon. The murmur of the jets-d’eau which rise from this canal, -the ripple of the water undulating against steps and slabs of polished -marble, the glancing and gleaming of the fish, and the striking contrast -of light and shade produced by the intricate labyrinth of arches and -columns, combine altogether to form a scene of enchantment such as we -sometimes dream of, but hardly suppose is ever realized. There is a -sobriety in the hues of the marble, a mysteriousness in the dark -recesses seen in perspective, and a solemnity in the deep colour, -approaching to blackness, of the water in that part of the reservoir -which is overshadowed by lofty buildings, I cannot help thinking -superior to all the flutter and glitter of the most famous Moorish -edifices at Granada or Seville. - -The flat summit of one of the loftiest terraces, not less than one -hundred and fifty feet from the ground, is laid out as a neat parterre, -which is spread like an embroidered carpet before the entrance of a huge -square tower, almost entirely occupied by a hall encrusted with -glistening tiles, and crowned by a most singularly-shaped dome. Amidst -the scrolls of arabesque foliage which adorn it, appear the arms of the -principal Portuguese nobility. The achievement of the unfortunate house -of Tavora is blotted out, and the panel it occupied left bare. - -We had climbed up to this terrace and tower by one of those steep, -cork-screw staircases, of which there are numbers in the palace, and -which connect with vaulted passages in a secret and suspicious manner. -The Marquis pointed out to me the mosaic pavement of a small chamber, -fretted and worn away in several places by the steps of Alphonso the -Sixth, who was confined to this narrow space a long series of years. - -Descending from it, we looked into the chapel, not less singular in form -and construction than the rest of the edifice. The low flat cupola, as -well as the intersections of the arches, are much in the style of a -mosque; but the barbaric profusion of gold, and still more barbaric -paintings with which every soffite and panel are covered, might almost -be supposed the work of Cingalese or Hindostanee artists, and reminded -me of those subterraneous pagodas where his Satanic Majesty receives -homage under the form of Gumputy or of Boodh. - -The original glare of all this strange scenery is greatly subdued by the -smoke of lamps, which have been burning for ages before the altar: a -mysterious pile of carved work and imagery, in perfect consonance, as to -gloom and uncouthness, with every other object in the place. It was -whilst kneeling before this very altar that the young, the ardent, the -chivalrous Don Sebastian is said to have received a supernatural warning -to renounce that fatal African expedition which cost him his crown and -his life, and what an heroic mind holds in far higher estimation, that -immortal fame which follows successful achievements. - -A something I can hardly describe, an oppressive gloom, seemed to hang -over this chapel, which remains very nearly, I should imagine, in the -same style it was left by the ill-fated Sebastian. The want of a free -circulation of air, and a heavy cloud of incense, affected the nerves of -my head so disagreeably that I was glad to move on, and follow the -Marquis into the rooms preparing for the Queen and the Infantas. These -are airy and well ventilated; but instead of hanging them with rich -arras, representing the adventures of knights and worthies, her -Majesty’s upholsterers are hard at work covering the stout walls with -bright silks and satins of the palest and most delicate colours. I saw -no furniture worth notice, not a picture or a cabinet: our stay, -therefore, as we had nothing to see, was not protracted. - -As soon as the Marquis had given some orders, with which his royal -mistress had charged him, we returned to Ramalhaô, where Horne and -Guildermeester, the Dutch Consul, were waiting our arrival, and -squabbling about insurances, percentages, commissions, and other -commercial speculations. - -I have been persuading the Marquis to accompany me to-morrow to -Guildermeester’s: it is the old man’s birthday, and he opens his new -house with dancing and suppering. We shall have a pretty sample of the -factory misses, clerks, and apprentices, some underlings of the _corps -diplomatique_, and God knows how many thousand pound weight of Dutch and -Hambro merchants. - - - - -LETTER XX. - - Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday of - Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome lights of - Truth.--Invective against the English. - - -July 25th, 1787. - -Grand gala at Court, and the Marquis gone to attend it; for this blessed -day not only gave birth to Guildermeester, but to the Princess of -Brazil. We went to dine with the Marchioness. A band of regimental -music, on their march to Guildermeester, began playing in the court, and -drew forth one of those curious swarms of all sexes, ages, and colours, -which this beneficent family are so fond of harbouring. Donna -Henriquetta was seated on the steps, which lead up to the great -pavilion, whispering to some of her favourite attendants, who, like the -chorus in an ancient Greek tragedy, were continually giving their -opinion of whatever was going forward. - -Just as Don Pedro and I were preparing to set off together for the ball -at the old consul’s, we were agreeably surprised by the arrival of the -Marquis, who had escaped from the palace much earlier than he expected. -I carried him in my chaise to Horne’s, where we drank tea on his -terrace, which commands the most romantic view in Cintra; vast sweeps of -varied foliage, banks with twisted roots, and trunks of enormous -chesnuts, mingled with weeping-willows of the freshest verdure, and -citrons clustered with fruit. Above this sylvan scene tower three -shattered pinnacles of rock, the middle one diversified by the turrets -and walls of Nossa Senhora da Penha, a convent of Jeronimites, -frequently concealed in clouds. I leaned against a cork-tree, which -spreads its branches almost entirely over the veranda, enjoying the -view, and staring idly at the grotesque figures, Dutch, English, and -Portuguese, passing along to Guildermeester’s; a series sufficiently -diversified to have amused me for some time, had not M---- grown -impatient and uneasy. His brother-in-law, S---- V----, to whom he has a -mortal aversion, having made his appearance, the powers of light and -darkness, if personified, could not exhibit a stronger contrast than -these two personages; M---- looking all benignity, and S---- V---- all -malevolence. Indeed, if one half of the atrocities[17] public report -attributes to this notorious nobleman be true, I should not wonder at -the blackness of revenge and tyranny being so deeply marked in every -line of his countenance. - -Moving off the first opportunity, we passed through dark and gloomy -lanes, admirably calculated for such exploits as I have just alluded to, -and were near being jerked into a ditch as we drove to the old consul’s -door. The space before this new building is in sad disorder. The house -has little more than bare walls, and was not very splendidly lighted up. - -As for the company, they turned out just what I expected. Madame G----, -who is a woman of spirit and discernment, did the honours with the -greatest ease, and paid her principal guests the most marked attentions. -There is a something pointedly original in all her observations, which -pleased me very much. She is not, however, of the merciful tribe, and -joined forces with Verdeil (no foe to a little slashing conversation) in -cutting up the factory. M---- handed her in to supper. This part of the -entertainment was magnificent. There was a bright illumination, an -immense profusion of plate, a striking breadth of table, every delicacy -that could be procured, and a dessert-frame, fifty or sixty feet in -length, gleaming with burnished figures and vases of silver flowers. I -felt no inclination to dance after supper; the music was not inspiring, -and the company thrown into the utmost confusion by the mad freaks of a -Frenchman, upon whom one of the principal ladies present is supposed for -two or three years past to have placed her affections. A _coup de -soleil_ and a quarrel with his ambassador, Monsieur de Bombelles, it -seems had turned the poor fellow’s brain: there was no preventing his -rushing from room to room with the sputter and eccentricity of a -fire-work, now abusing one person, now another, confessing publicly the -universal kindness he had received from the lady above hinted at, and -the many marks of tender affection a certain Miss W---- had bestowed on -him. “Why,” said he to the two heroines, who I am told are not upon the -best terms imaginable, “should you squabble and scratch? You are both -equally indulgent, and have both rendered me in your turns the happiest -mortal in the universe.” - -Whilst the light of truth was shining upon the bystanders in this very -singular manner, I leave you to imagine the awkward surprise of the -worthy old husband, and the angry blushes of his spouse and her fair -associate. I never beheld a more capital scene. In some of our -pantomimes, if I recollect rightly, harlequin applies a touchstone to -his adversaries, and by its magic influence draws truth from their -mouths in spite of propriety or interest. The lawyer confesses having -fingered a bribe, the soldier his flight in the day of battle, and the -whining methodistical dowager her frequent recourse to the bottle of -inspiration. This wondrous effect seems to have been here realized, and -some malicious demon to have possessed the talkative Frenchman, and to -have compelled him to disclose the mysteries to which he owes his -subsistence. Amongst the harsh truths poured out by this flow of -sincerity was a vehement apostrophe to the English canaille, as he -styled them, upon their rank intolerance of all customs except their -own, and their ten thousand starch uncharitable prejudices. Mrs.----, -become dauntless through despair, took up the cudgels in this cause most -vigorously, compared the chief part of the company to a swarm of -venomous insects, unworthy to crawl upon the hem of her really pure, -though calumniated garments, and fit to be shaken off with a vengeance -the first opportunity. - -The Marquis, Don Pedro, and I enjoyed the scene so much, that we stayed -later than we intended. - - - - -LETTER XXI. - - The Queen of Portugal’s Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal of a - Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. - - -Ramalhaô, near Cintra, 26th August, 1787. - -The Queen of Portugal’s chapel is still the first in Europe; in point of -vocal and instrumental excellence, no other establishment of the kind, -the papal not excepted, can boast such an assemblage of admirable -musicians. Wherever her Majesty moves they follow; when she goes a -hawking to Salvaterra, or a health-hunting to the baths of the Caldas. -Even in the midst of these wild rocks and mountains, she is surrounded -by a bevy of delicate warblers, as plump as quails, and as gurgling and -melodious as nightingales. The violins and violoncellos at her Majesty’s -beck are all of the first order, and in oboe and flute-players her -musical menagerie is unrivalled. - -The Marquis of M----, as first Lord of the Bedchamber, Master of the -Horse, and, as it were, hereditary prime favourite, enjoys a decided -influence over this empire of sweet sounds; and having been so friendly -as to impart a share of these musical blessings to me, I have been -permitted to avail myself, whenever I please, of a selection from this -wonderful band of performers. This very morning, to my shame be it -recorded, I remained hour after hour in my newly-arranged pavilion, -without reading a word, writing a line, or entering into any -conversation. All my faculties were absorbed by the harmony of the wind -instruments, stationed at a distance in a thicket of orange and bay -trees. It was to no purpose that I tried several times to retire out of -the sound--I was as often drawn back as I attempted to snatch myself -away. Did I consult the health of my mind, I should dismiss these -musicians; their plaintive affecting tones are sure to awaken in my -bosom a long train of mournful recollections, and by the force of -associated ideas to plunge me into a state of languor and gloom. - - * * * * * - -My excellent friend, the Prior of Aviz, performed a real act of -friendship, by breaking in almost by force upon my seclusion, and -rousing me from my reveries. He insisted upon my accompanying him to the -Archbishop’s, where the rehearsal of a council to be held in the Queen’s -presence was going forward, and all the ministers with their assistant -under-secretaries assembled. Such congregations are new to the good old -Confessor, who has been just pressed into the supreme direction, I might -say control, of the Cabinet, much against his will. He knows too well -the value of ease and tranquillity not to regret so violent an inroad -upon his usual habits of life. We found him, therefore, as might be -expected, in a state of turmoil and irritation, flushed up to the very -forehead with a ruddy tint, which was highly contrasted by his flowing -white flannel garments. These garments he frequently shook and crumpled, -and more than once did he strike with vehemence against his portly -paunch, which, though he declared it had waited an hour longer than -customary for its wonted replenishment, sounded by no means so hollow as -an empty tub. The old saying, that “_fat paunches make lean pates_,” -could not, however, be applied to him; he was so gracious and -confidential as to give me a summary of what had been represented to him -from the different departments of state, with great perspicuity and -acuteness. - -Notwithstanding the interest this singular communication ought to have -excited, I paid it not half the attention it deserved. The impression I -had received in the morning, from the music of Haydn and Jomelli, still -lingered about me. The Grand Prior, finding politics could not shake -them off, consulted with his nephew, who happened to be just by in the -Queen’s apartment, and returned with a proposal, that as I had long -expressed a wish to see Mafra, we should put this scheme in execution -to-morrow. It was settled, therefore, that to-morrow we should set off. - - - - -LETTER XXII. - - Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast - fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The - High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.--The collateral - Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The Abbot of the Convent.--The - Library.--View from the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of - the Capitan Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the - Organs.--The Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive - crowd.--The Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de - Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan Mor’s. - - -August 27th, 1787. - -We got into the carriage at nine, in spite of the wind, which blew full -in our faces. The distance from the villa I inhabit to this stupendous -convent is about fourteen English miles, and the road, which by -good-luck has been lately mended, conducted across a parched, open -country, thinly scattered with windmills and villages. The retrospect on -the woody slopes and pointed rocks of Cintra is pleasant enough; but -when you look forward, nothing can be more bleak or barren than the -prospect. Thanks to relays of mules, we advanced, full speed, and in -less than an hour and a quarter found ourselves under a strong wall -which winds boldly across the hills, and incloses the park of Mafra. - -We now caught a glimpse of the marble towers and dome of the convent, -relieved by an azure expanse of ocean, rising above the brow of heathy -eminences, diversified here and there by the bushy heads of Italian -pines and the tall spires of cypress. The roofs of the edifice were not -yet visible, and we continued some time winding about the undulating -acclivities in the park before they were discovered. A detachment of -lay-brothers were waiting to open the gates of the royal inclosure, -sadly blackened by a fire, which about a month ago consumed a great part -of its wood and verdure. Our approach spread a terrible alarm among the -herds of deer, which were peacefully browsing on a slope rather greener -than those in its neighbourhood. Off they scudded and took refuge in a -thicket of half-burnt pines. - -After coasting the wall of the great garden, we turned suddenly the -corner, and discovered one of the vast fronts of the convent, appearing -like a street of palaces. I cannot pretend that the style of the -building is such as a lover of pure Grecian architecture would approve; -the windows and doors are many of them fantastically shaped, but at -least well proportioned. - -I was admiring their ample range as we drove rapidly along, when, upon -wheeling round the lofty square pavilion which flanks the edifice, the -grand façade, extending above eight hundred feet, opened to my view. The -centre is formed by the porticos of the church richly adorned with -columns, niches, and bass-reliefs of marble. On each side two towers, -somewhat resembling those of St. Paul’s in London, rise to the height of -near two hundred feet, and, joining on to the enormous _corps de logis_, -the palace terminates to the right and left by its stately pavilions. -These towers are light, airy, and clustered with pillars, remarkably -beautiful; but their form in general borders too much on a sort of -pagoda-ish style, and wants solemnity. They contain many bells of the -largest dimensions, and a famous chime which cost several hundred -thousand crusadoes, and which was set playing the moment our arrival was -notified. The platform and flight of steps before the columned entrance -of the church is strikingly grand; and the dome, which lifts itself up -so proudly above the pediment of the portico, merits praise for its -lightness and elegance. - -My eyes ranged along the vast extent of palace on each side till they -were tired, and I was glad to turn them from the glare of marble and -confusion of sculptured ornaments to the blue expanse of the distant -ocean. Before the front of this colossal structure a wide level of space -extends itself, at the extremity of which several white houses lie -dispersed. Though these buildings are by no means inconsiderable, they -appear, when contrasted with the immense pile in the neighbourhood, like -the booths of workmen, for such I took them upon my first survey, and -upon a nearer approach was quite surprised at their real dimensions. - -Few objects render the prospect from the platform of Mafra, interesting. -You look over the roofs of an indifferent village and the summits of -sandy acclivities, backed by a boundless stretch of sea. On the left, -your view is terminated by the craggy mountains of Cintra; to the right, -a forest of pines in the Viscount of Ponte de Lima’s extensive garden, -affords the eye some small refreshment. - -To skreen ourselves from the sun, which darted powerfully on our heads, -we entered the church, passing through its magnificent portico, which -reminded me not a little of the entrance of St. Peter’s; and is crowded -with the statues of saints and martyrs, carved with infinite delicacy. - -The first _coup-d’œil_ of the church is very imposing. The high -altar, adorned with two majestic columns of reddish variegated marble, -each, a single block, above thirty feet in height, immediately fixes the -eye. Trevisani has painted the altar-piece in a masterly manner. It -represents St. Anthony in the ecstasy of beholding the infant Jesus -descending into his cell amidst an effulgence of glory. - -To-morrow being the festival of St. Augustine, whose followers are the -actual possessors of this monastery, all the golden candelabra were -displayed, and tapers lighted. After pausing a few minutes in the midst -of this bright illumination, we visited the collateral chapels, each -enriched with highly finished bassi-relievi and stately portals of black -and yellow marble, richly veined, and so highly polished as to reflect -objects like a mirror. Never did I behold such an assemblage of -beautiful marble as gleamed above, below, and around us. The pavement, -the vaulted ceiling, the dome, and even the topmost lantern, is -encrusted with the same costly and durable materials. Roses of white -marble and wreaths of palm-branches, most exquisitely sculptured, enrich -every part of the edifice. I never saw Corinthian capitals better -modelled, or executed with more precision and sharpness, than those of -the columns which support the nave. - -Having satisfied our curiosity by examining the various ornaments of the -altars, we followed our conductor through a long coved gallery into the -sacristy, a magnificent vaulted hall, panelled with some beautiful -varieties of alabaster and porphyry, and carpeted, as well as a chapel -adjoining it, in a style of the utmost magnificence. We traversed -several more halls and chapels, adorned with equal splendour, till we -were fatigued and bewildered like errant knights in the mazes of an -enchanted palace. - -I began to think there was no end to these spacious apartments. The monk -who preceded us, a good-natured, slobbering greybeard, taking for -granted that I could not understand a syllable of his language, -attempted to explain the objects which presented themselves by signs, -and would hardly believe his ears, when I asked him in good Portuguese -when we should have done with chapels and sacristies. The old fellow -seemed vastly delighted with the Meninos, as he called Don Pedro and me; -and to give our young legs an opportunity of stretching themselves, -trotted along with such expedition that the Marquis and Verdeil wished -him in purgatory. To be sure, we advanced at a most rapid rate, striding -from one end to the other of a dormitory, six hundred feet in length, in -a minute or two. These vast corridors, and the cells with which they -communicate, three hundred in number, are all arched in the most -sumptuous and solid manner. Every cell, or rather chamber, for they are -sufficiently spacious, lofty, and well lighted, to merit that -appellation, is furnished with tables and cabinets of Brazil-wood. - -Just as we entered the library, the Abbot of the convent, dressed in his -ceremonial habit, advanced to bid us welcome, and invite us to dine with -him to-morrow, St. Augustine’s day, in the refectory; which it seems is -a mighty compliment. We thought proper, however, to decline the honour, -being aware that, to enjoy it, we must sacrifice at least two hours of -our time, and be half parboiled by the steam of huge roasted calves, -turkeys, and gruntlings, which had long been fattening, no doubt, for -this solemn occasion. - -The library is of a prodigious length, not less than three hundred feet; -the arched roof of a pleasing form, beautifully stuccoed, and the -pavement of red and white marble. Much cannot be said in praise of the -cases in which the books are to be arranged. They are clumsily designed, -coarsely executed, and darkened by a gallery which projects into the -room in a very awkward manner. The collection, which consists of above -sixty thousand volumes, is locked up at present in a suite of apartments -which opens into the library. Several well preserved and richly -illuminated first editions of the Greek and Roman classics were handed -to me by the father librarian; but my nimble conductor would not allow -me much time to examine them. He set off full speed, and, ascending a -winding staircase, led us out upon the roof of the convent and palace, -which form a broad, smooth terrace, bounded by a magnificent balustrade, -unincumbered by chimneys, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the courts -and garden. - -From this elevation the whole plan of the edifice may be comprehended at -a glance. In the centre rises the dome, like a beautiful temple from the -spacious walks of a royal garden. It is infinitely superior, in point of -design, to the rest of the edifice, and may certainly be reckoned among -the lightest and best proportioned in Europe. Don Pedro and Monsieur -Verdeil proposed scaling a ladder which leads up to the lantern, but I -begged to be excused accompanying them, and amused myself during their -absence with ranging about the extensive loggias, now and then venturing -a look down on the courts and parterres so far below; but oftener -enjoying the prospect of the towers shining bright in the sunbeams, and -the azure bloom of the distant sea. A fresh balsamic air wafted from the -orchards of citron and orange, fanned me as I rested on the steps of the -dome, and tempered the warmth of the glowing æther. - -But I was soon driven from this cloudless, peaceful situation, by a -confounded jingle of all the bells; then followed a most complicated -sonata, banged off on the chimes by a great proficient. The Marquis, who -had climbed up on purpose to enjoy this cataract of what some persons -call melodious sounds at its fountainhead, would have me approach to -examine the mechanism, and I was half stunned. I know very little indeed -about chimes and clocks, and am quite at a loss for amusement in a -belfry. My friend, who inherits a mechanical turn from his father, the -renowned patron of clocks and time-pieces, investigated every wheel with -minute attention. - -His survey finished, we descended innumerable stairs, and retired to the -Capitan Mor’s, whose jurisdiction extends over the park and district of -Mafra. He has seven or eight thousand crusadoes a year, and his -habitation wears every appearance of comfort and opulence. The floors -are covered with mats of the finest texture, the doors hung with red -damask curtains, and our beds, quite new for the occasion, spread with -satin coverlids richly embroidered and fringed. We had a most luxurious -repast, and a better dessert than even the monks could have given -us--the Capitan Mor taking the dishes from his long train of servants, -and placing them himself on the table, quite in the feudal style. - -After coffee we hurried to vespers in the great church of the convent, -and advancing between the range of illuminated chapels, took our places -in the royal tribune. We were no sooner seated than the monks entered in -procession, preceding their abbot, who ascended his throne, having a row -of sacristans at his feet and canons on his right hand, in their cloth -of gold embroidered vestments. The service was chaunted with the most -imposing solemnity to the awful sound of organs, for there are no fewer -than six in the church, all of an enormous size. - -When it was ended, being once more laid hold of by the nimble -lay-brother, we were conducted up a magnificent staircase into the -palace. The suite extends seven or eight hundred feet, and the almost -endless succession of lofty doors seen in perspective, strikes with -astonishment; but we were soon weary of being merely astonished, and -agreed to pronounce the apartments the dullest and most comfortless we -had ever beheld; there is no variety in their shape, and little in their -dimensions. The furniture being all locked up at Lisbon, a naked -sameness universally prevails; not a niche, not a cornice, not a curved -moulding breaks the tedious uniformity of dead white walls. - -I was glad to return to the convent and refresh my eyes with the sight -of marble pillars, and my feet by treading on Persian carpets. We were -followed wherever we moved, into every cell, chapel, hall, passage, or -sacristy, by a strange medley of inquisitive monks, sacristans, -lay-brothers, corregidors, village-curates, and country beaux with long -rapiers and pigtails. If I happened to ask a question, half-a-dozen all -at once poked their necks out to answer it, like turkey-polts when -addressed in their native hobble-gobble dialect. The Marquis was quite -sick of being trotted after in this tumultuous manner, and tried several -times to leave the crowd behind him, by taking sudden turns; but -sticking close to our heels, it baffled all his endeavours, and -increased to such a degree, that we seemed to have swept the whole -convent and village of their inhabitants, and to draw them after us by -one of those supernatural attractions we read of in tales and romances. - -At length, perceiving a large door open into the garden, we bolted out, -and striking into a labyrinth of myrtles and laurels, got rid of our -pursuers. The garden, which is about a mile and a half in circumference, -contains, besides wild thickets of pine and bay-trees, several orchards -of lemon and orange, and two or three parterres more filled with weeds -than flowers. I was much disgusted at finding this beautiful inclosure -so wretchedly neglected, and its luxuriant plants withering away for -want of being properly watered. - -You may suppose, that after adding a walk in the principal alleys of the -garden to our other peregrinations, we began to find ourselves somewhat -fatigued, and were not sorry to repose ourselves in the Abbot’s -apartment till we were summoned once more to our tribune to hear matins -performed. It was growing dark, and the innumerable tapers burning -before the altars and in every part of the church, began to diffuse a -mysterious light. The organs joined again in full accord, the long -series of monks and novices entered with slow and solemn steps, and the -Abbot resumed his throne with the same pomp as at vespers. The Marquis -began muttering his orisons, the Grand Prior to recite his breviary, and -I to fall into a profound reverie, which lasted as long as the service, -that is to say above two hours. Verdeil, ready to expire with ennui, -could not help leaving the tribune and the cloud of incense which filled -the choir, to breathe a freer air in the body of the church and its -adjoining chapels. - -It was almost nine when the monks, after chaunting a most solemn and -sonorous hymn in praise of their venerable father, Saint Augustine, -quitted the choir. We followed their procession through lofty chapels -and arched cloisters, which by a glimmering light appeared to have -neither roof nor termination, till it entered an octagon forty feet in -diameter, with fountains in the four principal angles. The monks, after -dispersing to wash their hands at the several fountains, again resumed -their order, and passed two-and-two under a portal thirty feet high into -a vast hall, communicating with their refectory by another portal of the -same lofty dimensions. Here the procession made a pause, for this -chamber is consecrated to the remembrance of the departed, and styled -the Hall de Profundis. Before every repast, the monks standing round it -in solemn ranks, silently revolve in their minds the precariousness of -our frail existence, and offer up prayers for the salvation of their -predecessors. I could not help being struck with awe when I beheld by -the glow of flaming lamps, so many venerable figures in their black and -white habits bending their eyes on the pavement, and absorbed in the -most interesting and gloomy of meditations. - -The moment allotted to this solemn supplication being passed, every one -took his place at the long tables in the refectory, which are made of -Brazil-wood, and covered with the whitest linen. Each monk had his -glass caraffe of water and wine, his plate of apples and salad set -before him; neither fish nor flesh were served up, the vigil of St. -Augustine’s day being observed as a fast with the utmost strictness. - -To enjoy at a glance this singular and majestic spectacle, we retreated -to a vestibule preceding the octagon, and from thence looked through all -the portals down the long row of lamps into the refectory, which, owing -to its vast length of full two hundred feet, seemed ending in a point. -After remaining a few minutes to enjoy this perspective, four monks -advanced with torches to light us out of the convent, and bid us -good-night with many bows and genuflections. - -Our supper at the Capitan Mor’s was very cheerful. We sat up late, -notwithstanding our fatigue, talking over the variety of objects that -had passed before our eyes in so short a space of time, the crowd of -grotesque figures which had stuck to our heels so long and so closely, -and the awkward vivacity of the lay-brother. - - - - -LETTER XXIII. - - High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave Mafra.--An - accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful view from it. - - -August 28th, 1787. - -I was half asleep, half awake, when the sonorous bells of the convent -struck my ears. The Marquis and Don Pedro’s voices in earnest -conversation with the Capitan Mor in the adjoining chamber, completely -roused me. We swallowed our coffee in haste; the Grand Prior reluctantly -left his pillow, and accompanied us to high mass. The monks once more -exerted their efforts to prevail on us to dine with them; but we -remained inflexible, and to avoid their importunities hastened away, as -soon as mass was ended, to the Viscount Ponte de Lima’s gardens, where -the deep shade of the bay and ilex skreened us from the excessive heat -of the sun. - -The Marquis, seating himself by me near one of those clear and copious -fountains with which this magnificent Italian-looking garden is -refreshed and enlivened, entered into a most serious and semi-official -discourse about my stay in Portugal, and the means which were projecting -in a very high quarter to render it not only pleasant to myself, but of -some importance to many others. - - * * * * * - -I felt relieved when the appearance of Don Pedro and his uncle, who had -been walking to the end of an immensely long avenue of pines, warded off -a conversation that began to press hard upon me. We returned altogether -to the Capitan Mor’s, and found dinner ready. - -Both Don Pedro and myself were sorry to leave Mafra, and should have had -no objection to another race along the cloisters and dormitories with -the lay-brother. The evening was bright and clear, and the azure tints -of the distant sea inexpressibly lovely. We drove with a tumultuous -rapidity over the rough-paved roads, that the Marquis and I could hardly -hear a word we said to each other. Don Pedro had mounted his horse. -Verdeil, who preceded us in the carinho, seemed to outstrip the winds. -His mule, one of the most fiery and gigantic of her species, excited by -repeated floggings and the shout of a hulking Portuguese postilion, -perched up behind the carriage, galloped at an ungovernable rate; and at -about a league from the rocks of Cintra, thought proper to jerk out its -drivers into the midst of some bushes at the foot of a lofty bank, -nearly perpendicular, where they still remained sprawling when we passed -by. - -Verdeil hobbled up to us, and pointed to the carinho in the ditch below. -Except a slight contusion in the knee, he had received no hurt. I -exclaimed immediately, that his escape was miraculous, and that, -doubtless, St. Anthony had some hand in it. My friend, who has always -the horrors of heresy before his eyes, whispered me that the devil had -saved him this time, but might not be so favourably disposed another. - -It was not half-past five, when we reached Cintra. The Marchioness, the -Abade, and the children, were waiting our arrival. - -Feeling my head in a whirl, and my ideas as much jolted and jumbled as -my body, I returned home just before it fell dark, to enjoy a few hours -of uninterrupted calm. The scenery of my ample saloon, its air of -seclusion, its silence, seemed to breathe a momentary tranquillity over -my spirits. The mat smoothly laid down, and formed of the finest and -most glossy straw, assumed by candlelight a delightful, soft, and -harmonious colour. It looked so cool and glistening that I stretched -myself upon it. There did I lie supine, contemplating the serene -summer-sky, and the moon rising slowly from behind the brow of a shrubby -hill. A faint breeze blowing aside the curtains, discovered the summit -of the woods in the garden, and beyond, a wide expanse of country, -terminated by plains of sea and hazy promontories. - - - - -LETTER XXIV. - - A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing - stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful - funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde. - - -August 29th, 1787. - -It was furiously hot, and I trifled away the whole morning in my -pavilion, surrounded by fidalgos in flowered bed-gowns, and musicians in -violet-coloured accoutrements, with broad straw-hats, like bonzes or -talapoins, looking as sunburnt, vacant, and listless, as the inhabitants -of Ormus or Bengal; so that my company as well as my apartment wore the -most decided oriental appearance: the divan raised a few inches above -the floor, the gilt trellis-work of the windows, and the pellucid -streams of water rising from a tank immediately beneath them, supplied -in endless succession by springs from the native rock. - -An agreeable variety prevails in my Asiatic saloon; half its curtains -admit no light, and display the richest folds; the other half are -transparent, and cast a mild glow on the mat and sofas. Large clear -mirrors multiply this profusion of drapery, and several of my guests -seemed never tired of running from corner to corner, to view the -different groups of objects reflected on all sides in the most -unexpected directions, as if they fancied themselves admitted by -enchantment to peep into a labyrinth of magic chambers. - -One of the party, a very shrewd old Italian priest, who had left his -native land before the too-famous earthquake shook more than the half of -Lisbon to its foundations, told me he remembered an apartment a good -deal in this style, that is to say, bedecked with mirrors and curtains, -in a sort of fairy palace communicating with the Nunnery of Odivellas, -so famous for the pious retirement of that paragon of splendour and -holiness, King John the Fifth. These were delightful days for the -monarch and the fair companions of his devotions. - -“Oh!” said the old priest very judiciously, “of what avail is the finest -cage without birds to enliven it? Had you but heard the celestial -harmony of King John’s recluses, you would never have sat down contented -in your fine tent with the squalling of sopranos and the grumbling of -bass-viols. The silver, virgin tones I allude to, proceeding from the -holy recess into which no other male mortal except the monarch was ever -allowed to penetrate, had an effect I still remember with ecstasy, -though at the distance of so many years. Four of our finest singers, two -from Venice and two from Naples, attracted by a truly regal munificence, -added all that the most consummate taste and science could give to the -best voices in Portugal; the result was perfection.” - -Aguilar, who came to dine with us, and whose mother, when in the bloom -of youth and beauty, had been not unfrequently invited to act the part -of perhaps more than audience at these edifying parties, confirmed all -the wonders the old Italian narrated, and added not a few of the same -gold and ruby colour in a strain so extravagantly enthusiastic, that -were I to repeat even half the glittering anecdotes he favoured me with, -upon the subject of Don John the Fifth’s unbounded fervour and -magnificence, your imagination would be completely dazzled. - -Just as we had removed from the dinner to the dessert-table, which was -spread out upon a terrace fronting the principal alley of the gardens, -entered the abade Xavier, in full cry, with a rapturous story of the -conversion of an old consumptive Englishwoman, who, it seems, finding -herself upon the eve of departure, had called for a priest, to whom she -might confess, and abjure her errors of every description. Happening to -lodge at the Cintra inn, kept by a most flaming Irish Catholic, her -commendable desires were speedily complied with, and Mascarenhas and -Acciaoli, and two or three other priests and monsignors, summoned to -further the good work. - -“Great,” said the abade, “are our rejoicings upon the occasion. This -very evening the aged innocent is to be buried in triumph: Marialva, San -Lorenzo, Asseca, and several more of the principal nobility are already -assembled to grace the festival; suppose you were to come with me and -join the procession?” - -“With all my heart,” did I reply; “although I have no great taste for -funerals, so gay a one as this you talk of may form an exception.” - -Off we set, driving as fast as most excellent mules could carry us, lest -we should come too late for the entertainment. A great mob was assembled -before the door. At one of the windows stood the grand prior, looking as -if he wished himself a thousand leagues away, and reciting his breviary. -I went up-stairs, and was immediately surrounded by the old Conde de San -Lorenzo and other believers, overflowing with congratulations. -Mascarenhas, one of the soundest limbs of the patriarchal establishment, -a capital devotee and seraphic doctor, was introduced to me. Acciaoli, -whom I was before acquainted with, skipped about the room, rubbing his -hands for joy, with a cunning leer on his jovial countenance, and -snapping his fingers at Satan, as much as to say, “I don’t care a d---- -n for you. We have got one at least safe out of your clutches, and clear -at this very moment of the smoke of your cauldron.” - -There was such a bustle in the interior apartment where the wretched -corpse was deposited, such a chaunting and praying, for not a tongue -was idle, that my head swam round, and I took refuge by the grand prior. -He by no means relished the party, and kept shrugging up his shoulders, -and saying that it was very edifying--very edifying indeed, and that -Acciaoli had been extremely alert, extremely active, and deserved great -commendation, but that so much fuss might as well have been spared. - -By some hints that dropped, I won’t say from whom, I discovered the -innocent now on the high road to eternal felicity by no means to have -suffered the cup of joy to pass by untasted in this existence, and to -have lived many years on a very easy footing, not only with a stout -English bachelor, but with several others, married and unmarried, of his -particular acquaintance. However, she had taken a sudden tack upon -finding herself driven apace down the tide of a rapid consumption, and -had been fairly towed into port by the joint efforts of the Irish -hostess and the monsignori Mascarenhas and Acciaoli. - -“Thrice happy Englishwoman,” exclaimed M--a, “what luck is thine! In -the next world immediate admission to paradise, and in this thy body -will have the proud distinction of being borne to the grave by men of -the highest rank.--Was there ever such felicity?” - -The arrival of a band of priests and sacristans, with tapers lighted and -cross erected, called us to the scene of action. The procession being -marshalled, the corpse, dressed in virgin-white, lying snug in a sort of -rose-coloured bandbox with six silvered handles, was brought forth. -M----, who abhors the sight of a dead body, reddened up to his ears, and -would have given a good sum to make an honourable retreat; but no -retreat could now have been made consistent with piety: he was obliged -to conquer his disgust and take a handle of the bier. Another was placed -in the murderous gripe of the notorious San Vicente; another fell to the -poor old snuffling Conde de San Lorenzo; a fourth to the Viscount -d’Asseca, a mighty simple-looking young gentleman; the fifth and sixth -were allotted to the Capitaô Mor of Cintra, and to the judge, a gaunt -fellow with a hang-dog countenance. - -No sooner did the grand prior catch sight of the ghastly visage of the -dead body as it was being conveyed down-stairs in the manner I have -recited, than he made an attempt to move on, and precede instead of -following the procession; but Acciaoli, who acted as master of the -ceremonies, would not let him off so easily: he allotted him the post of -honour immediately at the head of the corpse, and placed himself at his -left hand, giving the right to Mascarenhas. All the bells of Cintra -struck up a cheerful peal, and to their merry jinglings we hurried along -through a dense cloud of dust, a rabble of children frolicking on either -side, and their grandmothers hobbling after, telling their beads, and -grinning from ear to ear at this triumph over the prince of darkness. - -Happily the way to the church was not long, or the dust would have -choked us. The grand prior kept his mouth close not to admit a particle -of it, but Acciaoli and his colleague were too full of their fortunate -exploit not to chatter incessantly. Poor old San Lorenzo, who is fat, -squat, and pursy, gasping for breath, stopped several times to rest on -his journey. Marialva, whom disgust rendered heartily fatigued with his -burthen, was very glad likewise to make a pause or two. - -We found all the altars in the church blazing with lights, the grave -gaping for its immaculate inhabitant, and a numerous detachment of -priests and choristers waiting to receive the procession. The moment it -entered, the same hymn which is sung at the interment of babes and -sucklings burst forth from a hundred youthful voices, incense arose in -clouds, and joy and gladness shone in the eyes of the whole -congregation. - -A murmur of applause and congratulation went round anew, those whom it -most concerned receiving with great affability and meekness the -compliments of the occasion. Old San Lorenzo, waddling up to the grand -prior, hugged him in his arms, and strewing him all over with snuff, set -him violently a-sneezing. San Vicente, as soon as the innocent was -safely deposited, retired in a sort of dudgeon, being never rightly at -ease in the presence of his brother-in-law Marialva. As for the latter -warm-hearted nobleman, exultation and triumph carried him beyond all -bounds of decorum. He scoffed bitterly at heretics, represented in their -true colours the actual happiness of the convert, and just as we left -the church, cried out loud enough for all those who were near to have -heard him, “_Elle se f----iche de nous tous à présent._” - -Their pious toil being ended, Mascarenhas and Acciaoli accompanied us to -the heights of Penha Verde, to breathe a fresh air under the odoriferous -pines: then, returning in our company to Ramalhaô, partook of a nice -collation of iced fruit and sweetmeats, and concluded the evening with -much gratifying discourse about the lively scene we had just witnessed. - - - - -LETTER XXV. - - Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. - Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The old Consul - and his tray of jewels. - - -The principal personages who had so piously distinguished themselves -yesterday dined with me this blessed afternoon. Old San Lorenzo has a -prodigious memory and a warm imagination, rendered still more glowing by -a slight touch of madness. He appears perfectly well acquainted with the -general politics of Europe, and though never beyond the limits of -Portugal, gave so circumstantial and plausible a detail of what -occurred, and of the part he himself acted at the congress of -Aix-la-Chapelle, that I was completely his dupe, and believed, until I -was let into the secret, that he had actually witnessed what he only -dreamt of. Notwithstanding the high favour he enjoyed with the infante -Don Pedro, Pombal cast him into a dungeon with the other victims of the -Aveiro conspiracy, and for eighteen most melancholy years was his active -mind reduced to prey upon itself for sustenance. - -Upon the present queen’s accession he was released, and found his -intimate friend the Infante sharing the throne; but thinking himself -somewhat coolly received and shabbily neglected, he threw the key of -chamberlain which was sent him into a place of less dignity than -convenience, and retired to the convent of the Necessidades. No means, I -have been assured, were left untried by the king to soothe and flatter -him; but they all proved fruitless. Since this period, though he quitted -the convent, he has never appeared at court, and has refused all -employment. Devotion now absorbs his entire soul. Except when the chord -of imprisonment and Pombal is touched upon, he is calm and reasonable. I -found him extremely so to-day, and full of the most instructive and -amusing anecdote. - -Coffee over, my company having stretched themselves out at full-length -most comfortably, some on the mat, and some on the sofas, to recruit -their spirits I suppose, after the pious toils and enthusiastic -procession of the day before, I prevailed upon Marialva to escort me to -Mrs. Guildermeester’s, whom we found in a vast but dingy saloon, her -toads squatting around her. She gave us some excellent tea, and a plain -sensible loaf of brown bread, accompanied by delicious butter, just -fresh from a genuine Dutch dairy, conducted upon the most immaculate -Dutch principles. Donna Genuefa, the toad-passive in waiting, is a -little jossish old woman, with a head as round as a humming-top, and a -large placid lip, very smiling and good-natured. Miss Coster, the -toad-active, has been rather pretty a few years ago, makes tea with -decorum, shuts doors and opens windows with judgment, and has a good -deal to say for herself when allowed to sit still on her chair. - -We had scarcely begun complimenting the mistress of the house upon the -complete success of her cow-establishment, when the old consul her -spouse entered, with many bows and salutations, bearing a huge japan -tray, upon which was spread out in glittering profusion an ample -treasure, both of rough and well-lapidated brilliants, the fruits of his -famous and most lucrative contract in the days of Pombal. Some of the -largest diamonds, in superb though heavy Dutch or German settings, he -eagerly desired Marialva would recommend to the attention of the queen, -and whispered in my ear that he hoped I also would speak a good word for -him. I remained as deaf as an adder, and the Marquis as blind as a -beetle, to the splendour of the display; so he returned once more to his -interior cabinet, with all his hopes out of blossom, and we moved off. - -Evening was drawing on, and a drizzling mist overspreading the crags of -Cintra. It did not, however, prevent us from going to Mr. Horne’s. We -passed under arching elms and chesnuts, whose moistened foliage exhaled -a fresh woody odour. High above the vapours, which were rolling away -just as we emerged from the shady avenue, appeared the turret of the -convent of the Penha, faintly tinted by the last rays of the sun, and -looking down, like the ark on Mount Ararat, on a sea of undulating -clouds. - -At Horne’s, Aguilar, Bezerra, and the usual set were assembled. The -Marquis, as soon as he had made his condescending bows to the right and -left, retired to his villa, and I took Horne in my chaise to Mrs. -Staits, a little slender-waisted, wild-eyed woman, by no means -unpleasing or flinty-hearted. It was her birthday, and she had -congregated most of the English at Cintra, in a damp garden about -seventy feet long by thirty-two, illuminated by thirty or forty -lanterns. Mrs. Guildermeester was there, covered with diamonds, and -sparkling like a star in the midst of this murky atmosphere. We had a -cold funereal supper, under a low tent in imitation of a grotto. - -Mrs. Staits’ well-disposed, easy-tempered husband placed me next Mrs. -Guildermeester, who amused herself tolerably well at the expense of the -entertainment. The dingy, subterraneous appearance of the booth, the wan -light of the lanterns sparingly scattered along it, and the fragrance of -a dish of rather mature prawns placed under my nose, seized me with the -idea of being dead and buried. “Alas!” said I to my fair neighbour, “it -is all over with us now, and this our first banquet in the infernal -regions; we are all equal and jumbled together. There sits the pious -presbyterian Mrs. Fussock, with that bridling miss her daughter, and -close to them those adulterous doves, Mr. ---- and his sultana. Here am -I, miserable sinner, right opposite your righteous and much enduring -spouse; a little lower our kind host, that pattern of conjugal meekness -and resignation. Hark! don’t you hear a lumbering noise? They are -letting down a cargo of heavy bodies into a neighbouring tomb.” - -In this strain did we continue till the subject was exhausted, and it -was time to take our departure. - - - - -LETTER XXVI. - - Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke - d’Alafoins.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of the - Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. - - -Sept. 10th, 1787. - -Adieu to the tranquillity of Cintra, we shall soon have nothing but -hubbub and confusion. The queen is on the point of arriving with all her -maids of honour, secretaries of state, dwarfs, negresses and horses, -white, black, and pie-bald. Half the quintas around will be dried up, -military possession having been taken of the aqueducts, and their waters -diverted into new channels for the use of an encampment. - -I was walking in a long arched bower of citron-trees, when M---- -appeared at the end of the avenue, accompanied by the duke d’Alafoins. -This is the identical personage well-known in every part of Europe by -the appellation of Duke of Braganza. He has no right however, to wear -that illustrious title, which is merged in the crown. Were he called -Duchess Dowager, of anything you please, I think nobody would dispute -the propriety of his style, he being so like an old lady of the -bed-chamber, so fiddle-faddle and so coquettish. He had put on rouge and -patches, and though he has seen seventy winters, contrived to turn on -his heel and glide about with juvenile agility. - -I was much surprised at the ease of his motions, having been told that -he was a martyr to the gout. After lisping French with a most refined -accent, complaining of the sun, and the roads, and the state of -architecture, he departed, (thank heaven!) to mark out a spot for the -encampment of the cavalry, which are to guard the queen’s sacred person -during her residence in these mountains. M---- was in duty bound to -accompany him; but left his son and his nephews, the heirs of the House -of Tancos, to dine with me. - -In the evening, Verdeil, tired with sauntering about the verandas, -proposed a ride to a neighbouring village, where there was a fair. He -and Don Pedro mounted their horses, and preceded the young Tancos and me -in a garden-chair, drawn by a most resolute mule. The roads are -abominable, and lay partly along the sloping base of the Cintra -mountains, which in the spring, no doubt, are clothed with a tolerable -verdure, but at this season every blade of grass is parched and -withered. Our carriage-wheels, as we drove sideling along these slippery -declivities, pressed forth the odour of innumerable aromatic herbs, half -pulverized. Thicknesse perhaps would have said, in his original quaint -style, that nature was treating us with a pinch of her best cephalic. No -snuff, indeed, ever threw me into a more violent fit of sneezing. - -I could hardly keep up my head when we arrived at the fair, which is -held on a pleasant lawn, bounded on one side by the picturesque -buildings of a convent of Hieronimites, and on the other by rocky hills, -shattered into a variety of uncouth romantic forms; one cliff in -particular, called the Pedra d’os Ovos, terminated by a cross, crowns -the assemblage, and exhibits a very grotesque appearance. Behind the -convent a thick shrubbery of olives, ilex, and citron, fills up a small -valley refreshed by fountains, whose clear waters are conducted through -several cloisters and gardens, surrounded by low marble columns, -supporting fretted arches in the morisco style. - -The peasants assembled at the fair were scattered over the lawn; some -conversing with the monks, others half intoxicated, sliding off their -donkeys and sprawling upon the ground; others bargaining for silk-nets -and spangled rings, to bestow on their mistresses. The monks, who were -busily employed in administering all sorts of consolations, spiritual -and temporal, according to their respective ages and vocations, happily -paid us no kind of attention, so we escaped being stuffed with -sweetmeats, and worried with compliments. - -At sunset we returned to Ramalhaô, and drank tea in its lantern-like -saloon, in which are no less than eleven glazed doors and windows of -large dimensions. The winds were still; the air balsamic; and the sky of -so soft an azure that we could not remain with patience under any other -canopy, but stept once more into our curricles and drove as far as the -Dutch consul’s new building, by the mingled light of innumerable stars. - -It was after ten when we got back to the Marialva villa, and long before -we reached it, we heard the plaintive tones of voices and wind -instruments issuing from the thickets. On the margin of the principal -basin sat the marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, and a numerous group of -their female attendants, many of them most graceful figures, and -listening with all their hearts and souls to the rehearsal of some very -delightful music with which her majesty is to be serenaded a few -evenings hence. - -It was one of those serene and genial nights when music acquires a -double charm, and opens the heart to tender, though melancholy -impressions. Not a leaf rustled, not a breath of wind disturbed the -clear flame of the lights which had been placed near the fountains, and -which just served to make them visible. The waters, flowing in rills -round the roots of the lemon-trees, formed a rippling murmur; and in the -pauses of the concert, no other sound except some very faint whisperings -was to be distinguished, so that the enchantment of climate, music, and -mystery, all contributed to throw my mind into a sort of trance from -which I was not roused again without a degree of painful reluctance. - - - - -LETTER XXVII. - - Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular - invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and - shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. - - -September 12th, 1787. - -I was hardly up before the grand prior and Mr. Street were announced: -the latter abusing kings, queens, and princes, with all his might, and -roaring after liberty and independence; the former complaining of fogs -and damps. - -As soon as the advocate for republicanism had taken his departure, we -went by appointment to the archbishop confessor’s, and were immediately -admitted into his _sanctum sanctorum_, a snug apartment communicating by -a winding staircase with that of the queen, and hung with bright, lively -tapestry. A lay-brother, fat, round, buffoonical, and to the full as -coarse and vulgar as any carter or muleteer in christendom, entertained -us with some very amusing, though not the most decent, palace stories, -till his patron came forth. - -Those who expect to see the Grand Inquisitor of Portugal, a doleful, -meagre figure, with eyes of reproof and malediction, would be -disappointed. A pleasanter or more honest countenance than that kind -heaven has blessed him with, one has seldom the comfort of looking upon. -He received me in the most open, cordial manner, and I have reason to -think I am in mighty favour. - -We talked about archbishops in England being married. “Pray,” said the -prelate, “are not your archbishops strange fellows? consecrated in -ale-houses, and good bottle companions? I have been told that mad-cap -Lord Tyrawley was an archbishop at home.” You may imagine how much I -laughed at this inconceivable nonsense; and though I cannot say, -speaking of his right reverence, that “truths divine came mended from -his tongue,” it may be allowed, that nonsense itself became more -conspicuously nonsensical, flowing from so revered a source. - -Whilst we sat in the windows of the saloon, listening to a band of -regimental music, we saw Joaô Antonio de Castro, the ingenious -mechanician, who invented the present method of lighting Lisbon, two or -three solemn dominicans, and a famous court fool[18] in a tawdry -gala-suit, bedizened with mock orders, coming up the steps which lead to -the great audience-chamber, all together. “Ay, ay,” said the -lay-brother, who is a shrewd, comical fellow, “behold a true picture of -our customers. Three sorts of persons find their way most readily into -this palace; men of superior abilities, buffoons, and saints; the first -soon lose what cleverness they possessed, the saints become martyrs, and -the buffoons alone prosper.” - -To all this the Archbishop gave his hearty assent by a very significant -nod of the head; and being, as I have already told you, in a most -gracious, communicative disposition, would not permit me to go away, -when I rose up to take leave of him. - -“No, no,” said he, “don’t think of quitting me yet awhile. Let us repair -to the hall of Swans, where all the court are waiting for me, and pray -tell me then what you think of our great fidalgos.” - -Taking me by the tip of the fingers he led me along through a number of -shady rooms and dark passages to a private door, which opened from the -queen’s presence-chamber, into a vast saloon, crowded, I really believe, -by half the dignitaries of the kingdom; here were bishops, heads of -orders, secretaries of state, generals, lords of the bedchamber, and -courtiers of all denominations, as fine and as conspicuous as -embroidered uniforms, stars, crosses, and gold keys could make them. - -The astonishment of this group at our sudden apparition was truly -laughable, and indeed, no wonder; we must have appeared on the point of -beginning a minuet--the portly archbishop in his monastic, flowing white -drapery, spreading himself out like a turkey in full pride, and myself -bowing and advancing in a sort of _pas-grave_, blinking all the while -like an owl in sunshine, thanks to my rapid transition from darkness to -the most glaring daylight. - -Down went half the party upon their knees, some with petitions and some -with memorials; those begging for places and promotions, and these for -benedictions, of which my revered conductor was by no means prodigal. He -seemed to treat all these eager demonstrations of fawning servility with -the most contemptuous composure, and pushing through the crowd which -divided respectfully to give us passage, beckoned the Viscount Ponte de -Lima, the Marquis of Lavradio, the Count d’Obidos, and two or three of -the lords in waiting, into a mean little room, not above twenty by -fourteen. - -After a deal of adulatory complimentation in a most subdued tone from -the circle of courtiers, for which they had got nothing in return but -rebuffs and gruntling, the Archbishop drew his chair close to mine, and -said with a very distinct and audible pronunciation, “My dear -Englishman, these are all a parcel of flattering scoundrels, do not -believe one word they say to you. Though they glitter like gold, mud is -not meaner--I know them well. Here,” continued he, holding up the flap -of my coat, “is a proof of English prudence, this little button to -secure the pocket is a precious contrivance, especially in grand -company, do not leave it off, do not adopt any of our fashions, or you -will repent it.” - -This sally of wit was received with the most resigned complacency by -those who had inspired it, and, staring with all my eyes, and listening -with all my ears, I could hardly credit either upon seeing the most -complaisant gesticulations, and hearing the most abject protestations of -devoted attachment to his right reverence’s sacred person from all the -company. - -There is no saying how long this tide of adulation would have continued -pouring on, if it had not been interrupted by a message from the queen, -commanding the confessor’s immediate attendance. Giving his garments a -hearty shake, he trudged off bawling out to me over his shoulder, “I -shall be back in half-an-hour, and you must dine with me.“--“Dine with -him!” exclaimed the company in chorus: “such an honour never befel any -one of us; how fortunate! how distinguished you are!” - -Now, I must confess, I was by no means enchanted with this most peculiar -invitation; I had a much pleasanter engagement at Penha-Verde, one of -the coolest and most romantic spots in all this poetic district, and -felt no vocation to be cooped up in a close bandboxical apartment, -smelling of paint and varnish enough to give the head-ache; however, -there was no getting off. I was told that I must obey, for everybody in -these regions, high or low, the royal family themselves not excepted, -obeyed the archbishop, and that I ought to esteem myself too happy in so -agreeable an opportunity. - -It would be only repeating what is known to every one, who knows any -thing of courts and courtiers, were I to add the flowery speeches, the -warm encomiums, I received from the finest feathered birds of this covey -upon my own transcendant perfections, and those of my host that was to -be. The half-hour, which, by-the-by, was more than three-quarters, -scarcely sufficed for half those very people had to say in my -commendation, who, a few days ago, were all reserve and indifference, if -I happened to approach them. My summons to this envied repast was -conveyed to me by no less a personage than the Marquis of M----, who, -with gladsome surprise in all his gestures, whispered me, “I am to be of -the party too, the first time in my life I can assure you; not a -creature besides is to be admitted; for my uncle is gone home tired of -waiting for you.” - -We knocked at the private door, which was immediately opened, and -following the same passages through which I had been before conducted, -emerged into an ante-chamber looking into a very neat little kitchen, -where the lay-brother, with his sleeves tucked up to his shoulders, was -making hospitable preparation. A table with three covers was prepared in -the tapestry-room, and upon a sofa, in the corner of it, sat the -omnipotent prelate wrapped up in an old snuff-coloured great coat, sadly -patched and tattered. - -“Come,” said he, clapping his hands after the oriental fashion, “serve -up and let us be merry--oh, these women, these women, above stairs, what -a plague it is to settle their differences! Who knows better than you, -Marquis, what enigmas they are to unriddle? I dare say the Englishman’s -archbishops have not half such puzzles to get over as I have: well, let -us see what we have got for you.” - -Entered the lay-brother with three roasting-pigs, on a huge tray of -massive silver, and an enormous pillau, as admirable in quality as in -size; and so it had need to have been, for in these two dishes consisted -our whole dinner. I am told the fare at the Archbishop’s table never -varies, and roasting-pigs succeed roasting-pigs, and pillaus pillaus, -throughout all the vicissitudes of the seasons, except on certain -peculiar fast-days of supreme meagre. - -The simplicity of this part of our entertainment was made up by the -profusion and splendour of our dessert, which exceeded in variety of -fruits and sweetmeats any one of which I had ever partaken. As to the -wines, they were admirable, the tribute of every part of the Portuguese -dominions offered up at this holy shrine. The Port Company, who are just -soliciting the renewal of their charter, had contributed the choicest -produce of their happiest vintages, and as I happened to commend its -peculiar excellence, my hospitable entertainer, whose good-humour seemed -to acquire every instant a livelier glow, insisted upon my accepting -several pipes of it, which were punctually sent me the next morning. The -Archbishop became quite jovial, and supposing I was not more insensible -to the joys of convivial potations than many of my countrymen, plied me -as often and as waggishly as if I had been one of his imaginary -archbishops, or Lord Tyrawley himself, returned from those cold -precincts where no dinners are given or bottle circulated. - -The lay-brother was such a fountain of anecdote, the Archbishop in such -glee, and Marialva in such jubilation at being admitted to this -confidential party, that it is impossible to say how long it would have -lasted, had not the hour of her Majesty’s evening excursion approached, -and the Archbishop been called to accompany her. As Master of the Horse, -the Marquis could not dispense with his attendance, so I was left under -the guidance of the lay-brother, who, leading me through another -labyrinth of passages, opened a kind of wicket door, and let me out with -as little ceremony as he would have turned a goose adrift on a common. - - - - -LETTER XXVIII. - - Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da - Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of - Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients - exemplified. - - -Sept. 19th, 1787. - -Never did I behold so fine a day, or a sky of such lovely azure. The -M---- were with me by half-past six, and we rode over wild hills, which -command a great extent of apparently desert country; for the villages, -if there are any, are concealed in ravines and hollows. - -Intending to explore the Cintra mountains from one extremity to the -other of the range, we placed relays at different stations. Our first -object was the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha, the little romantic -pile of white buildings I had seen glittering from afar when I first -sailed by the coast of Lisbon. From this pyramidical elevation the view -is boundless: you look immediately down upon an immense expanse of sea, -the vast, unlimited Atlantic. A long series of detached clouds of a -dazzling whiteness, suspended low over the waves, had a magic effect, -and in pagan times might have appeared, without any great stretch of -fancy, the cars of marine divinities just risen from the bosom of their -element. - -There was nothing very interesting in the objects immediately around us. -The Moorish remains in the neighbourhood of the convent are scarcely -worth notice, and indeed seem never to have made part of any -considerable edifice. They were probably built up with the dilapidations -of a Roman temple, whose constructors had perhaps in their turn availed -themselves of the fragments of a Punic or Tyrian fane raised on this -high place, and blackened with the smoke of some horrible sacrifice. - -Amidst the crevices of the mouldering walls, and particularly in the -vault of a cistern, which seems to have served both as a reservoir and a -bath, I noticed some capillaries and polypodiums of infinite delicacy; -and on a little flat space before the convent a numerous tribe of -pinks, gentians, and other alpine plants, fanned and invigorated by the -pure mountain air. These refreshing breezes, impregnated with the -perfume of innumerable aromatic herbs and flowers, seemed to infuse new -life into my veins, and, with it, an almost irresistible impulse to fall -down and worship in this vast temple of Nature the source and cause of -existence. - -As we had a very extensive ride in contemplation, I could not remain -half so long as I wished on this aërial and secluded summit. Descending -by a tolerably easy road, which wound amongst the rocks in many an -irregular curve, we followed for several miles a narrow tract over the -brow of savage and desolate eminences, to the Cork convent, which -answered exactly, at the first glance we caught of it, the picture one -represents to one’s self of the settlement of Robinson Crusoe. Before -the entrance, formed of two ledges of ponderous rock, extends a smooth -level of greensward, browsed by cattle, whose tinkling bells filled me -with recollections of early days passed amongst wild and alpine scenery. -The Hermitage, its cells, chapel, and refectory, are all scooped out of -the native marble, and lined with the bark of the cork-tree. Several of -the passages about it are not only roofed, but floored with the same -material, extremely soft and pleasant to the feet. The shrubberies and -garden plats, dispersed amongst the mossy rocks which lie about in the -wildest confusion, are delightful, and I took great pleasure in -exploring their nooks and corners, following the course of a -transparent, gurgling rill, which is conducted through a rustic -water-shoot, between bushes of lavender and rosemary of the tenderest -green. - -The Prior of this romantic retirement is appointed by the Marialvas, and -this very day his installation takes place, so we were pressed to dine -with him upon the occasion, and could not refuse; but as it was still -very early, we galloped on, intending to visit a famous cliff, the Pedra -d’Alvidrar, which composes one of the most striking features of that -renowned promontory the Rock of Lisbon. - -Our road led us through the skirts of the woods which surround the -delightful village of Collares, to another range of barren eminences -extending along the sea-shore. I advanced to the very margin of the -cliff, which is of great height, and nearly perpendicular. A rabble of -boys followed at the heels of our horses, and five stout lads, detached -from this posse, descended with the most perfect unconcern the dreadful -precipice. One in particular walked down with his arms expanded, like a -being of a superior order. The coast is truly picturesque, and consists -of bold projections, intermixed with pyramidical rocks succeeding each -other in theatrical perspective, the most distant crowned by a lofty -tower, which serves as a lighthouse. - -No words can convey an adequate idea of the bloom of the atmosphere, and -the silvery light reflected from the sea. From the edge of the abyss, -where I had remained several minutes like one spell-bound, we descended -a winding path, about half a mile, to the beach. Here we found ourselves -nearly shut in by shattered cliffs and grottos, a fantastic -amphitheatre, the best calculated that can possibly be imagined to -invite the sports of sea nymphs. Such coves, such deep and broken -recesses, such a play of outline I never beheld, nor did I ever hear so -powerful a roar of rushing waters upon any other coast. No wonder the -warm and susceptible imagination of the ancients, inflamed by the -scenery of the place, led them to believe they distinguished the conchs -of tritons sounding in these retired caverns; nay, some grave -Lusitanians positively declared they had not only heard, but seen them, -and despatched a messenger to the Emperor Tiberius to announce the -event, and congratulate him upon so evident and auspicious a -manifestation of divinity. - -The tide was beginning to ebb, and allowed us, not without some risk -however, to pass into a cavern of surprising loftiness, the sides of -which were incrusted with beautiful limpets, and a variety of small -shells grouped together. Against some rude and porous fragments, not far -from the aperture through which we had crept, the waves swell with -violence, rush into the air, form instantaneous canopies of foam, then -fall down in a thousand trickling rills of silver. The flickering gleams -of light thrown upon irregular arches admitting into darker and more -retired grottos, the mysterious, watery gloom, the echoing murmurs and -almost musical sounds, occasioned by the conflict of winds and waters, -the strong odour of an atmosphere composed of saline particles, produced -altogether such a bewildering effect upon the senses, that I can easily -conceive a mind, poetically given, might be thrown into that kind of -tone which inclines to the belief of supernatural appearances. I am not -surprised, therefore, at the credulity of the ancients, and only wonder -my own imagination did not deceive me in a similar manner. - -If solitude could have induced the Nereids to have vouchsafed me an -apparition, it was not wanting, for all my company had separated upon -different pursuits, and had left me entirely to myself. During the full -half-hour I remained shut out from the breathing world, one solitary -corvo marino was the only living creature I caught sight of, perched -upon an insulated rock, about fifty paces from the opening of the -cavern. - -I was so stunned with the complicated sounds and murmurs which filled my -ears, that it was some moments before I could distinguish the voices of -Verdeil and Don Pedro, who were just returned from a hunt after -seaweeds and madrapores, calling me loudly to mount on horseback, and -make the best of our way to rejoin the Marquis and his attendants, all -gone to mass at the Cork convent. Happily, the little detached clouds we -had seen from the high point of Nossa Senhora da Penha, instead of -melting into the blue sky, had been gathering together, and skreened us -from the sun. We had therefore a delightful ride, and upon alighting -from our palfreys found the old abade just arrived with Luis de Miranda, -the colonel of the Cascais regiment, surrounded by a whole synod of -monks, as picturesque as bald pates and venerable beards could make -them. - -As soon as the Marquis came forth from his devotions, dinner was served -up exactly in the style one might have expected at Mequinez or -Morocco--pillaus of different kinds, delicious quails, and pyramids of -rice tinged with saffron. Our dessert, in point of fruits and -sweetmeats, was most luxurious, nor would Pomona herself have been -ashamed of carrying in her lap such peaches and nectarines as rolled in -profusion about the table. - -The abade seemed animated after dinner by the spirit of contradiction, -and would not allow the Marquis or Luis de Miranda to know more about -the court of John the Fifth, than of that of Pharaoh, king of Egypt. - -To avoid being stunned by the clamours of the dispute, in which two or -three monks with stentorian voices began to take part most vehemently, -Don Pedro, Verdeil, and I climbed up amongst the hanging shrubberies of -arbutus, bay, and myrtle, to a little platform carpeted with delicate -herbage, exhaling a fresh, aromatic perfume upon the slightest pressure. -There we sat, lulled by the murmur of distant waves, breaking over the -craggy shore we had visited in the morning. The clouds came slowly -sailing over the hills. My companions pounded the cones of the pines, -and gave me the kernels, which have an agreeable almond taste. - -The evening was far advanced before we abandoned our peaceful, -sequestered situation, and joined the Marquis, who had not been yet able -to appease the abade. The vociferous old man made so many appeals to the -father-guardian of the convent in defence of his opinions, that I -thought we never should have got away. At length we departed, and after -wandering about in clouds and darkness for two hours, reached Cintra -exactly at ten. The Marchioness and the children had been much alarmed -at our long absence, and rated the abade severely for having occasioned -it. - - - - -LETTER XXIX. - - Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the - edifices in Gaspar Poussin’s landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, - said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests - displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of Visiters.--A celebrated - Prior’s erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the - Apocalypse.--Œcolampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fête at the - Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf - Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired - by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of - Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumiares.--Affecting resemblance. - - -September 22nd, 1787. - -When I got up, the mists were stealing off the hills, and the distant -sea discovering itself in all its azure bloom. Though I had been led to -expect many visiters of importance from Lisbon, the morning was so -inviting that I could not resist riding out after breakfast, even at the -risk of not being present at their arrival. - -I took the road to Collares, and found the air delightfully soft and -fragrant. Some rain which had lately fallen, had refreshed the whole -face of the country, and tinged the steeps beyond Penha Verde with -purple and green; for the numerous tribe of heaths had started into -blossom, and the little irregular lawns, overhung by crooked cork-trees, -which occur so frequently by the way-side, are now covered with large -white lilies streaked with pink. - -Penha Verde itself is a lovely spot. The villa, with its low, flat -roofs, and a loggia projecting at one end, exactly resembles the -edifices in Gaspar Poussin’s landscapes. Before one of the fronts is a -square parterre with a fountain in the middle, and niches in the walls -with antique busts. Above these walls a variety of trees and shrubs rise -to a great elevation, and compose a mass of the richest foliage. The -pines, which, by their bright-green colour, have given the epithet of -verdant to this rocky point (Penha Verde), are as picturesque as those I -used to admire so warmly in the Negroni garden at Rome, and full as -ancient, perhaps more so: tradition assures us they were planted by the -far-famed Don John de Castro, whose heart reposes in a small marble -chapel beneath their shade. - -How often must that heroic heart, whilst it still beat in one of the -best and most magnanimous of human bosoms, have yearned after this calm -retirement! Here, at least, did it promise itself that rest so cruelly -denied him by the blind perversities of his ungrateful countrymen: for -his had been an arduous contest, a long and agonizing struggle, not only -in the field under a burning sun, and in the face of peril and death, -but in sustaining the glory and good fame of Portugal against court -intrigues, and the vile cabals of envious, domestic enemies. - -These scenes, though still enchanting, have most probably undergone -great changes since his days. The deep forests we read of have -disappeared, and with them many a spring they fostered. Architectural -fountains, gaudy terraces, and regular stripes of orange-gardens, have -usurped the place of those wild orchards and gushing rivulets he may be -supposed to have often visited in his dreams, when removed some thousand -leagues from his native country. All these are changed; but mankind are -the same as in his time, equally insensible to the warning voice of -genuine patriotism, equally disposed to crouch under the rod of corrupt -tyranny. And thus, by the neglect of wise and virtuous men, and a mean -subserviency to knavish fools, eras which might become of gold, are -transmuted by an accursed alchymy into iron rusted with blood. - -Impressed with all the recollections this most interesting spot could -not fail to inspire, I could hardly tear myself away from it. Again and -again did I follow the mossy steps, which wind up amongst shady rocks to -the little platform, terminated by the sepulchral chapel-- - - “----densis quam pinus opacat - Frondibus et nulla lucos agitante procella - Stridula coniferis modulatur carmina ramis.” - -You must not wonder then, that I was haunted the whole way home by these -mysterious whisperings, nor that, in such a tone of mind, I saw with no -great pleasure a procession of two-wheeled chaises, the lord knows how -many out-riders, and a caravan of bouras, marching up to the gate of my -villa. I had, indeed, been prepared to expect a very considerable influx -of visiters; but this was a deluge. - -Do not let me send you a catalogue of the company, lest you should be as -much annoyed with the detail, as I was with such a formidable arrival -_en masse_. Let it suffice to name two of the principal characters, the -old pious Conde de San Lorenzo, and the prior of San Juliaô, one of the -archbishop’s prime favourites, and a person of great worship. Mortier’s -Dutch bible happening to lie upon the table, they began tumbling over -the leaves in an egregiously awkward manner. I, who abhor seeing books -thumbed, and prints demonstrated by the close application of a greasy -fore-finger, snapped at the old Conde, and cast an evil look at the -prior, who was leaning his whole priestly weight on the volume, and -creasing its corners. - -My musicians were in full song, and Pedro Grua, a capital violoncello, -exerted his abilities in his best style; but San Lorenzo was too -pathetically engaged in deploring the massacre of the Innocents to pay -him any attention, and his reverend companion had entered into a -long-winded dissertation upon parables, miracles, and martyrdom, from -which I prayed in vain the Lord to deliver me. Verdeil, scenting from -afar the saintly flavour of the discourse, stole off. - -I cannot say much in praise of the prior’s erudition, even in holy -matters, for he positively affirmed that it was Henry the Eighth -himself, who knocked St. Thomas à Becket’s brains out, and that by the -beast in the Apocalypse, Luther was positively indicated. I hate -wrangles, and had it not been for the soiling of my prints, should never -have contradicted his reverence; but as I was a little out of humour, I -lowered him somewhat in the Conde’s opinion, by stating the real period -of St. Thomas’s murder, and by tolerably specious arguments, shoving the -beast’s horns off Luther, and clapping them tight upon--whom do you -think?--Œcolampadius! So grand a name, which very probably they had -never heard pronounced in their lives, carried all before it, (adding -another instance of the triumph of sound over sense,) and settled our -bickerings. - -We sat down, I believe, full thirty to dinner, and had hardly got -through the dessert, when Berti came in to tell me that Madame Ariaga, -and a bevy of the palace damsels, were prancing about the quinta on -palfreys and bouras. I hastened to join them. There was Donna Maria do -Carmo, and Donna Maria da Penha, with her hair flowing about her -shoulders, and her large beautiful eyes looking as wild and roving as -those of an antelope. I called for my horse, and galloped through alleys -and citron bushes, brushing off leaves, fruit, and blossoms. Every -breeze wafted to us the sound of French horns and oboes. The ladies -seemed to enjoy the freedom and novelty of this scamper prodigiously, -and to regret the short time it was doomed to last; for at seven they -are obliged to return to strict attendance on the Queen, and had some -strange fairy-tale metamorphosis into a pumpkin or a cucumber been the -penalty of disobedience, they could not have shown more alarm or anxiety -when the fatal hour of seven drew near. Luckily, they had not far to go, -for her Majesty and the Royal Family were all assembled at the Marialva -villa, to partake of a splendid merenda and see fireworks. - -As soon as it fell dark Verdeil and I set forth to catch a glimpse of -the royal party. The Grand Prior and Don Pedro conducted us mysteriously -into a snug boudoir which looks into the great pavilion, whose gay, -fantastic scenery appeared to infinite advantage by the light of -innumerable tapers reflected on all sides from lustres of glittering -crystal. The little Infanta Donna Carlotta was perched on a sofa in -conversation with the Marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, who, in the -true oriental fashion, had placed themselves cross-legged on the floor. -A troop of maids of honour, commanded by the Countess of Lumieres, sat -in the same posture at a little distance. Donna Rosa, the favourite -dwarf negress, dressed out in a flaming scarlet riding-habit, not so -frolicsome as the last time I had the pleasure of seeing her in this -fairy bower, was more sentimental, and leaned against the door, ogling -and flirting with a handsome Moor belonging to the Marquis. - -Presently the Queen, followed by her sister and daughter-in-law, the -Princess of Brazil, came forth from her merenda, and seated herself in -front of the latticed-window, behind which I was placed. Her manner -struck me as being peculiarly dignified and conciliating. She looks born -to command; but at the same time to make that high authority as much -beloved as respected. Justice and clemency, the motto so glaringly -misapplied on the banner of the abhorred Inquisition, might be -transferred with the strictest truth to this good princess. During the -fatal contest betwixt England and its colonies, the wise neutrality she -persevered in maintaining was of the most vital benefit to her -dominions, and hitherto, the native commerce of Portugal has attained -under her mild auspices an unprecedented degree of prosperity. - -Nothing could exceed the profound respect, the courtly decorum her -presence appeared to inspire. The Conde de Sampayo and the Viscount -Ponte de Lima knelt by the august personages with not much less -veneration, I should be tempted to imagine, than Moslems before the tomb -of their prophet, or Tartars in the presence of the Dalai Lama. Marialva -alone, who took his station opposite her Majesty, seemed to preserve his -ease and cheerfulness. The Prince of Brazil and Don Joaô looked not a -little ennuied; for they kept stalking about with their hands in their -pockets, their mouths in a perpetual yawn, and their eyes wandering -from object to object, with a stare of royal vacancy. - -A most rigorous etiquette confining the Infants of Portugal within their -palaces, they are seldom known to mix even incognito with the crowd; so -that their flattering smiles or confidential yawns are not lavished upon -common observers. This sort of embalming princes alive, after all, is no -bad policy; it keeps them sacred; it concentrates their royal essence, -too apt, alas! to evaporate by exposure. What is so liberally paid for -by the willing tribute of the people as a rarity of exquisite relish, -should not be suffered to turn mundungus. However the individual may -dislike this severe regimen, state pageants might have the goodness to -recollect for what purpose they are bedecked and beworshipped. - -The Conde de Sampayo, lord in waiting, handed the tea to the Queen, and -fell down on both knees to present it. This ceremony over, for every -thing is ceremony at this stately court, the fireworks were announced, -and the royal sufferers, followed by their sufferees, adjourned to a -neighbouring apartment. The Marchioness, her daughters, and the -Countess of Lumieres, mounted up to the boudoir where I was sitting, -and took possession of the windows. Seven or eight wheels, and as many -tourbillons began whirling and whizzing, whilst a profusion of admirable -line-rockets darted along in various directions, to the infinite delight -of the Countess of Lumieres, who, though hardly sixteen, has been -married four years. Her youthful cheerfulness, light hair, and fair -complexion, put me so much in mind of my Margaret, that I could not help -looking at her with a melancholy tenderness: her being with child -increased the resemblance, and as she sat in the recess of the window, -discovered at intervals by the blue light of rockets bursting high in -the air, I felt my blood thrill as if I beheld a phantom, and my eyes -were filled with tears. - -The last firework being played off, the Queen and the Infantas departed. -The Marchioness and the other ladies descended into the pavilion, where -we partook of a magnificent and truly royal collation. Donna Maria and -her little sister, animated by the dazzling illumination, tripped about -in their light muslin dresses, with all the sportiveness of fairy -beings, such as might be supposed to have dropped down from the floating -clouds, which Pillement has so well represented on the ceiling. - - - - -LETTER XXX. - - Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.--The Holy - Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese - poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular - tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the - Infanta’s accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio’s singing, - and anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_. - - -November 8th, 1787. - -Verdeil and I rattled over cracked pavements this morning in my rough -travelling-coach, for the sake of exercise. The pretext for our -excursion was to see a remarkable chapel, inlaid with jasper and -lapis-lazuli, in the church of St. Roch; but when we arrived, three or -four masses were celebrating, and not a creature sufficiently disengaged -to draw the curtain which veils the altar, so we went out as wise as we -came in. - -Not having yet seen the cathedral, or See-church, as it is called at -Lisbon, we directed our course to that quarter. It is a building of no -striking dimensions, narrow and gloomy, without being awful. The -earthquake crumbled its glories to dust, if ever it had any, and so -dreadfully shattered the chapels, with which it is clustered, that very -slight traces of their having made part of a mosque are discernible. - -Though I had not been led to expect great things, even from descriptions -in travels and topographical works, which, like peerage-books and -pedigrees, are tenderly inclined to make something of what is next to -nothing at all: I hunted away, as became a diligent traveller, after -altar-pieces and tombs, but can boast of no discoveries. To be sure, we -had not much time to look about us: the priests and sacristans, who -fastened upon us, insisted upon our revisiting the corner of a bye -staircase, where are to be kissed and worshipped the traces of St. -Anthony’s fingers. The saint, it seems, being closely pursued by the -father of lies and parent of evil, alias Old Scratch, (I really could -not clearly learn upon what occasion,) indented the sign of the cross -into a wall of the hardest marble, and stopped his proceedings. A very -pleasing little picture hangs up near the miraculous cross, and records -the tradition. - -All this was admirable; but nothing in comparison with some stories -about certain holy crows. “The very birds are in being,” said a -sacristan. “What!” answered I, “the individual[19] crows who attended -St. Vincent?”--“Not exactly,” was the reply, (in a whisper, intended for -my private ear); “but their immediate descendants.”--“Mighty well; this -very evening, please God, I will pay my respects to them, and in good -company, so adieu for the present.” - -Our next point was the Theatine convent. We looked into the library, -which lies in the same confusion in which it was left by the earthquake; -half the books out of their shelves, tumbled one over the other in dusty -heaps. A shrewd, active monk, who, I am told, has written a history of -the House of Braganza, not yet printed, guided our steps through this -chaos of literature; and after searching half-an-hour for some curious -voyages he wished to display to us, led us into his cell, and pressed -our attention to a cabinet of medals he had been at some pains and -expense in collecting. - -Not feeling any particular vocation for numismatic researches, I left -Verdeil with the monk, puzzling out some very questionable inscriptions, -and went to beat up for recruits to accompany me in the evening to the -holy crows. First, I found the Abade Xavier, and secondly, the famous -missionary preacher from Boa Morte, and then the Grand Prior, and -lastly, the Marquis of Marialva; Don Pedro begged not to be left out, so -we formed a coach full, and I drove my whole cargo home to dinner. -Verdeil was already returned with his reverend medallist, and had also -collected the governor of Goa, Don Frederic de Sousa Cagliariz, his -constant attendant a bullying Savoyard, or Piedmontese Count, by name -Lucatelli; and a pale, limber, odd-looking young man, Senhor Manuel -Maria, the queerest, but, perhaps, the most original of God’s poetical -creatures. He happened to be in one of those eccentric, lively moods, -which, like sunshine in the depth of winter, come on when least -expected. A thousand quaint conceits, a thousand flashes of wild -merriment, a thousand satirical darts shot from him, and we were all -convulsed with laughter; but when he began reciting some of his -compositions, in which great depth of thought is blended with the most -pathetic touches, I felt myself thrilled and agitated. Indeed, this -strange and versatile character may be said to possess the true wand of -enchantment, which, at the will of its master, either animates or -petrifies. - -Perceiving how much I was attracted towards him, he said to me, “I did -not expect an Englishman would have condescended to pay a young, -obscure, modern versifier, any attention. You think we have no bard but -Camoens, and that Camoens has written nothing worth notice, but the -Lusiad. Here is a sonnet worth half the Lusiad. - - CXCII. - - ‘A fermosura desta fresca serra, - E a sombra dos verdes castanheiros, - O manso caminhar destes ribeiros, - Donde toda a tristeza se desterra; - O rouco som do mar, a estranha terra, - O esconder do Sol pellos outeiros, - O recolher dos gados derradeiros, - Das nuvens pello ar a branda guerra: - Em fim tudo o que a rara natureza - Com tanta variedade nos ofrece, - Me està (se não te vejo) magoando: - Sem ti tudo me enoja, e me aborrece, - Sem ti perpetuamente estou passando - Nas mòres alegrias, mòr tristeza!’ - -Not an image of rural beauty has escaped our divine poet; and how -feelingly are they applied from the landscape to the heart! What a -fascinating languor, like the last beams of an evening sun, is thrown -over the whole composition! If I am any thing, this sonnet has made me -what I am; but what am I, compared to Monteiro? Judge,” continued he, -putting into my hand some manuscript verses of this author, to whom the -Portuguese are vehemently partial. Though they were striking and -sonorous, I must confess the sonnet of Camoens, and many of Senhor -Manuel Maria’s own verses, pleased me infinitely more; but in fact, I -was not sufficiently initiated into the force and idiom of the -Portuguese language to be a competent judge; and it was only in fancying -me one, that this powerful genius discovered any want of penetration. - -Our dinner was lively and convivial. At the dessert the Abadè produced -an immense tray of dried fruits and sweetmeats, which one of his hundred -and fifty _protégés_ had sent him from, I forget what exotic region. -These good things he kept handing to us, and almost cramming down our -throats, as if we had been turkeys and he a poulterer, whose livelihood -depended upon our fattening. “There,” said he, “did you ever behold such -admirable productions? Our Queen has thousands and thousands of miles -with fruit-groves over your head, and rocks of gold and diamonds beneath -your feet. The riches and fertility of her possessions have no bounds, -but the sea, and the sea itself might belong to us if we pleased; for we -have such means of ship-building, masts two hundred feet high, -incorruptible timbers, courageous seamen. Don Frederic can tell you what -some of our heroes achieved not long ago against the gentiles at Goa. -Your Joaô Bulles are not half so smart, half so valorous.” - -Thus he went on, bouncing and roaring us deaf. For patriotic -rodomontades and flourishes, no nation excels the Portuguese, and no -Portuguese the Abadè! - -At length, however, all this tasting and praising having been gone -through with, we set forth on the wings of holiness, to pay our devoirs -to the holy crows. A certain sum having been allotted time immemorial -for the maintenance of two birds of this species, we found them very -comfortably established in a recess of a cloister adjoining the -cathedral, well fed and certainly most devoutly venerated. - -The origin of this singular custom dates as high as the days of St. -Vincent, who was martyrized near the Cape, which bears his name, and -whose mangled body was conveyed to Lisbon in a boat, attended by crows. -These disinterested birds, after seeing it decently interred, pursued -his murderers with dreadful screams and tore their eyes out. The boat -and the crows are painted or sculptured in every corner of the -cathedral, and upon several tablets appear emblazoned an endless record -of their penetration in the discovery of criminals. - -It was growing late when we arrived, and their feathered sanctities were -gone quietly to roost; but the sacristans in waiting, the moment they -saw us approach, officiously roused them. O, how plump and sleek, and -glossy they are! My admiration of their size, their plumage, and their -deep-toned croakings carried me, I fear, beyond the bounds of saintly -decorum. I was just stretching out my hand to stroke their feathers, -when the missionary checked me with a solemn forbidding look. The rest -of the company, aware of the proper ceremonial, kept a respectful -distance, whilst the sacristan and a toothless priest, almost bent -double with age, communicated a long string of miraculous anecdotes -concerning the present holy crows, their immediate predecessors, and -other holy crows in the old time before them. - -To all these super-marvellous narrations, the missionary appeared to -listen with implicit faith, and never opened his lips during the time we -remained in the cloister, except to enforce our veneration, and exclaim -with pious composure, “_honrado corvo_.” I really believe we should have -stayed till midnight, had not a page arrived from her Majesty to summon -the Marquis of M---- and his almoner away. - -My curiosity being fully satisfied upon the subject of the holy crows, I -was easily persuaded by the Grand Prior to move off, and drive through -the principal streets to see the illuminations in honour of the Infanta, -consort to Don Gabriel of Spain, who had produced a prince. A great -many idlers being abroad upon the same errand, we proceeded with -difficulty, and were very near having the wheels of our carriage -dislocated in attempting to pass an old-fashioned, preposterous coach, -belonging to one of the dignitaries of the patriarchal cathedral. I -cannot launch forth in praise of the illuminations; but some rockets -which were let off in the Terreiro do Paco, surprised me by the vast -height to which they rose, and the unusual number of clear blue stars -into which they burst. The Portuguese excel in fireworks; the late poor, -drivelling, saintly king having expended large sums in bringing this art -to perfection. - -From the Terreiro do Paco we drove to the great square, in which the -palace of the Inquisition is situated. There we found a vast mob, to -whom three or four Capuchin preachers were holding forth upon the -glories and illuminations of a better world. I should have listened not -uninterested to their harangues, which appeared, from the specimen I -caught of them, to be full of fire and frenzy, had not the Grand Prior, -in perpetual awe of the rheumatism, complained of the night, so we -drove home. Every apartment of the house was filled with the thick -vapour of wax-torches, which had been set most loyally a blazing. I -fumed and fretted and threw open the windows. Away went the Grand Prior, -and in came Policarpio, the famous tenor singer, who entertained us with -several bravura airs of glib and surprising volubility, before supper -and during it, in a style equally professional, with many private -anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_, his principal employers, not -infinitely to their advantage. - -I longed, in return, to have enlarged a little upon the adventures of -the holy crows, but prudently repressed my inclination. It would -ill-become a person so well treated as I had been by the crow-fanciers, -to handle such subjects with any degree of levity. - - - - -LETTER XXXI. - - Rambles in the Valley of Collares.--Elysian scenery. Song of a - young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the - Prince of Brazil[20] in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with - His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalhaô. - - -Oct. 19th, 1787. - -My health improves every day. The clear exhilarating weather we now -enjoy calls forth the liveliest sense of existence. I ride, walk, and -climb, as long as I please, without fatiguing myself. The valley of -Collares affords me a source of perpetual amusement. I have discovered a -variety of paths which lead through chesnut copses and orchards to -irregular green spots, where self-sown bays and citron-bushes hang wild -over the rocky margin of a little river, and drop their fruit and -blossoms into the stream. You may ride for miles along the bank of this -delightful water, catching endless perspectives of flowery thickets, -between the stems of poplar and walnut. The scenery is truly elysian, -and exactly such as poets assign for the resort of happy spirits. - -The mossy fragments of rock, grotesque pollards, and rustic bridges you -meet with at every step, recall Savoy and Switzerland to the -imagination; but the exotic cast of the vegetation, the vivid green of -the citron, the golden fruitage of the orange, the blossoming myrtle, -and the rich fragrance of a turf, embroidered with the -brightest-coloured and most aromatic flowers, allow me without a violent -stretch of fancy to believe myself in the garden of the Hesperides, and -to expect the dragon under every tree. I by no means like the thoughts -of abandoning these smiling regions, and have been twenty times on the -point this very day of revoking the orders I have given for my journey. -Whatever objections I may have had to Portugal seem to vanish, since I -have determined to leave it; for such is the perversity of human nature, -that objects appear the most estimable precisely at the moment when we -are going to lose them. - -There was this morning a mild radiance in the sunbeams, and a balsamic -serenity in the air, which infused that voluptuous listlessness, that -desire of remaining imparadised in one delightful spot, which, in -classical fictions, was supposed to render those who had tasted the -lotos forgetful of country, of friends, and of every tie. My feelings -were not dissimilar, I loathed the idea of moving away. - -Though I had entered these beautiful orchards soon after sunrise, the -clocks of some distant conventual churches had chimed hour after hour -before I could prevail upon myself to quit the spreading odoriferous -bay-trees under which I had been lying. If shades so cool and fragrant -invited to repose, I must observe that never were paths better -calculated to tempt the laziest of beings to a walk, than those which -opened on all sides, and are formed of a smooth dry sand, bound firmly -together, composing a surface as hard as gravel. - -These level paths wind about amongst a labyrinth of light and elegant -fruit-trees; almond, plum, and cherry, something like the groves of -Tonga-taboo, as represented in Cook’s voyages; and to increase the -resemblance, neat cane fences and low open sheds, thatched with reeds, -appear at intervals, breaking the horizontal lines of the perspective. - -I had now lingered and loitered away pretty nearly the whole morning, -and though, as far as scenery could authorize and climate inspire, I -might fancy myself an inhabitant of elysium, I could not pretend to be -sufficiently ethereal to exist without nourishment. In plain English, I -was extremely hungry. The pears, quinces, and oranges which dangled -above my head, although fair to the eye, were neither so juicy nor -gratifying to the palate, as might have been expected from their -promising appearance. - -Being considerably - - More than a mile immersed within the wood,[21] - -and not recollecting by which clue of a path I could get out of it, I -remained at least half-an-hour deliberating which way to turn myself. -The sheds and enclosures I have mentioned were put together with care -and even nicety, it is true, but seemed to have no other inhabitants -than flocks of bantams, strutting about and destroying the eggs and -hopes of many an insect family. These glistening fowls, like their -brethren described in Anson’s voyages, as animating the profound -solitudes of the island of Tinian, appeared to have no master. - -At length, just as I was beginning to wish myself very heartily in a -less romantic region, I heard the loud, though not unmusical, tones of a -powerful female voice, echoing through the arched green avenues; -presently, a stout ruddy young peasant, very picturesquely attired in -brown and scarlet, came hoydening along, driving a mule before her, -laden with two enormous panniers of grapes. To ask for a share of this -luxuriant load, and to compliment the fair driver, was instantaneous on -my part, but to no purpose. I was answered by a sly wink, “We all belong -to Senhor Josè Dias, whose corral, or farm-yard, is half a league -distant. There, Senhor, if you follow that road, and don’t puzzle -yourself by straying to the right or left, you will soon reach it, and -the bailiff, I dare say, will be proud to give you as many grapes as you -please. Good morning, happy days to you! I must mind my business.” - -Seating herself between the tantalizing panniers, she was gone in an -instant, and I had the good luck to arrive straight at the wicket of a -rude, dry wall, winding up and down several bushy slopes in a wild -irregular manner. If the outside of this enclosure was rough and -unpromising, the interior presented a most cheering scene of rural -opulence. Droves of cows and goats milking; ovens, out of which huge -cakes of savoury bread had just been taken; ranges of beehives, and long -pillared sheds, entirely tapestried with purple and yellow muscadine -grapes, half candied, which were hung up to dry. A very good-natured, -classical-look-magister pecorum, followed by two well-disciplined, -though savage-eyed dogs, whom the least glance of their master prevented -from barking, gave me a hearty welcome, and with genuine hospitality not -only allowed me the free range of his domain, but set whatever it -produced in the greatest perfection before me. A contest took place -between two or three curly-haired, chubby-faced children, who should be -first to bring me walnuts fresh from the shell, bowls of milk, and -cream-cheeses, made after the best of fashions, that of the province of -Alemtejo. - -I found myself so abstracted from the world in this retirement, so -perfectly transported back some centuries into primitive patriarchal -times, that I don’t recollect having ever enjoyed a few hours of more -delightful calm. “Here,” did I say to myself, “am I out of the way of -courts and ceremonies, and commonplace visitations, or salutations, or -gossip.” But, alas! how vain is all one thinks or says to one’s self -nineteen times out of twenty. - -Whilst I was blessing my stars for this truce to the irksome bustle of -the life I had led ever since her Majesty’s arrival at Cintra, a loud -hallooing, the cracking of whips, and the tramping of horses, made me -start up from the snug corner in which I had established myself, and -dispelled all my soothing visions. Luis de Miranda, the colonel of the -Cascais regiment, an intimate confidant and favourite of the Prince of -Brazil, broke in upon me with a thousand (as he thought) obliging -reproaches, for having deserted Ramalhaô the very morning he had come on -purpose to dine with me, and to propose a ride after dinner to a -particular point of the Cintra mountains, which commands, he assured me, -such a prospect as I had not yet been blessed with in Portugal. “It is -not even now,” said he, “too late. I have brought your horses along -with me, whom I found fretting and stamping under a great tree at the -entrance of these foolish lanes. Come, get into your stirrups for God’s -sake, and I will answer for your thinking yourself well repaid by the -scene I shall disclose to you.” - -As I was doomed to be disturbed and talked out of the elysium in which I -had been lapped for these last seven or eight hours, it was no matter in -what position, whether on foot or on horseback; I therefore complied, -and away we galloped. The horses were remarkably sure-footed, or else, I -think, we must have rolled down the precipices; for our road, - - “If road it could be call’d where road was none,” - -led us by zigzags and short cuts over steeps and acclivities about three -or four leagues, till reaching a heathy desert, where a solitary cross -staring out of a few weather-beaten bushes, marked the highest point of -this wild eminence, one of the most expansive prospects of sea, and -plain, and distant mountains, I ever beheld, burst suddenly upon me, -rendered still more vast, aërial, and indefinite, by the visionary, -magic vapour of the evening sun. - -After enjoying a moment or two the general effect, I began tracing out -the principal objects in the view, as far, that is to say, as they could -be traced, through the medium of the intense glowing haze. I followed -the course of the Tagus, from its entrance till it was lost in the low -estuaries beyond Lisbon. Cascais appeared with its long reaches of wall -and bomb-proof casemates like a Moorish town, and by the help of a glass -I distinguished a tall palm lifting itself above a cluster of white -buildings. - -“Well,” said I, to my conductor, “this prospect has certainly charms -worth seeing; but not sufficient to make me forget that it is high time -to get home and refresh ourselves.” “Not so fast,” was the answer, “we -have still a great deal more to see.” - -Having acquired, I can hardly tell why or wherefore, a sheep-like habit -of following wherever he led, I spurred after him down a rough -declivity, thick strewn with rolling stones and pebbles. At the bottom -of this descent, a dreary sun-burnt plain extended itself far and wide. -Whilst we dismounted and halted a few minutes to give our horses breath, -I could not help observing, that the view we were now contemplating but -ill-rewarded the risk of breaking our necks in riding down such rapid -declivities. He smiled, and asked me whether I saw nothing at all -interesting in the prospect. “Yes,” said I, “a sort of caravan I -perceive, about a quarter of a mile off, is by no means uninteresting; -that confused group of people in scarlet, with gleaming arms and -sumpter-mules, and those striped awnings stretched from ruined walls, -present exactly that kind of scenery I should expect to meet with in the -neighbourhood of Grand Cairo.” “Come then,” said he, “it is time to -clear up this mystery, and tell you for what purpose we have taken such -a long and fatiguing ride. The caravan which strikes you as being so -very picturesque, is composed of the attendants of the Prince of Brazil, -who has been passing the whole day upon a shooting-party, and is just at -this moment taking a little repose beneath yonder awnings. It was by his -desire I brought you here, for I have his commands to express his wishes -of having half-an-hour’s conversation with you, unobserved, and in -perfect incognito. Walk on as if you were collecting plants or taking -sketches, I will apprize his royal highness, and you will meet as it -were by chance, and without any form. No one shall be near enough to -hear a word you say to each other, for I will take my station at the -distance of at least one hundred paces, and keep off all spies and -intruders.” - -I did as I was directed. A little door in the ruined wall, against which -an awning was fixed, opened, and there appeared a young man of rather a -prepossessing figure, fairer and ruddier than most of his countrymen, -who advanced towards me with a very pleasant engaging countenance, moved -his hat in a dignified graceful manner, and after insisting upon my -being covered, began addressing himself to me with great precipitation, -in a most fluent lingua-franca, half Italian and half Portuguese. This -jargon is very prevalent at the Ajuda[22] palace, where Italian singers -are in much higher request and fashion than persons of deeper tone and -intellect. - -The first question his royal highness honoured me with was, whether I -had visited his cabinet of instruments. Upon my answering in the -affirmative, and that the apparatus appeared to me extremely perfect, -and in admirable order, he observed, “The arrangement is certainly good, -for one of my particular friends, a very learned man, has made it; but -notwithstanding the high price I have paid, your Ramsdens and Dollonds -have treated themselves more generously than me. I believe,” continued -his royal highness, “according to what the Duke d’Alafoens has -repeatedly assured me, I am conversing with a person who has no weak, -blind prejudices, in favour of his country, and who sees things as they -are, not as they have been, or as they ought to be. That commercial -greediness the English display in every transaction has cost us dear in -more than one particular.” - -He then ran over the ground Pombal had so often trodden bare, both in -his state papers and in various publications which had been promulgated -during his administration, and I soon perceived of what school his royal -highness was a disciple. - -“We deserve all this,” continued he, “and worse, for our tame -acquiescence in every measure your cabinet dictates; but no wonder, -oppressed and debased as we are, by ponderous, useless institutions. -When there are so many drones in a hive, it is in vain to look for -honey. Were you not surprised, were you not shocked, at finding us so -many centuries behind the rest of Europe?” - -I bowed, and smiled. This spark of approbation induced, I believe, his -royal highness to blaze forth into a flaming encomium upon certain -reforms and purifications which were carrying on in Brabant, under the -auspices of his most sacred apostolic Majesty Joseph the Second. “I have -the happiness,” continued the Prince, “to correspond not unfrequently -with this enlightened sovereign. The Duke d’Alafoens, who has likewise -the advantage of communicating with him, never fails to give me the -detail of these salutary proceedings. When shall we have sufficient -manliness to imitate them!” - -Though I bowed and smiled again, I could not resist taking the liberty -of observing that such very rapid and vigorous measures as those his -imperial Majesty had resorted to, were more to be admired than imitated; -that people who had been so long in darkness, if too suddenly broken in -upon by a stream of effulgence, were more likely to be blinded than -enlightened; and that blows given at random by persons whose eyes were -closed were dangerous, and might fall heaviest perhaps in directions -very opposite to those for which they were intended. This was rather -bold, and did not seem to please the novice in boldness. - -After a short pause, which allowed him, at least, an opportunity of -taking breath, he looked steadily at me, and perceiving my countenance -arrayed in the best expression of admiration I could throw into it, -resumed the thread of his philosophical discourse, and even condescended -to detail some very singular and, as they struck me, most perilous -projects. Continuing to talk on with an increased impetus (like those -whose steps are accelerated by running down hill) he dropped some vague -hints of measures that filled me not only with surprise, but with a -sensation approaching to horror. I bowed, but I could not smile. My -imagination, which had caught the alarm at the extraordinary nature of -the topics he was discoursing upon, conjured up a train of appalling -images, and I asked myself more than once whether I was not under the -influence of a distempered dream. - -Being too much engaged in listening to himself to notice my confusion, -he worked as hard as a pioneer in clearing away the rubbish of ages, -entered minutely and not unlearnedly into the ancient jurisprudence and -maxims of his country, its relations with foreign powers, and the rank -from whence it had fallen in modern times, to be attributed in a great -measure, he observed, to a blind and mistaken reliance upon the selfish -politics of our predominant island. Although he did not spare my -country, he certainly appeared not over partial to his own. He painted -its military defects and priest-ridden policy in vivid colours. In -short, this part of our discourse was a “_deploratio Lusitanicæ -Gentis_,” full as vehement as that which the celebrated Damien a Goes, -to show his fine Latin and fine humanity, poured forth some centuries -ago over the poor wretched Laplanders. - -Not approving in any degree the tendency of all this display, I most -heartily prayed it might end. Above an hour had passed since it began, -and flattered as I was by the protraction of so condescending a -conference, I could not help thinking that these fountains of honour are -fountains of talk and not of mercy; they flow over, if once set a going, -without pity or moderation. Persons in supreme stations, whom no one -ventures to contradict, run on at a furious rate. You frequently flatter -yourself they are exhausted; but you flatter yourself in vain. Sometimes -indeed, by way of variety, they contradict themselves, and then the -debate is carried on between self and self, to the desperation of their -subject auditors, who, without being guilty of a word in reply, are -involved in the same penalty us the most captious disputant. This was my -case. I scarcely uttered a syllable after my first unsuccessful essay; -but thousands of words were nevertheless lavished upon me, and -innumerable questions proposed and answered by the questioner with equal -rapidity. - -In return for the honour of being admitted to this monological dialogue, -I kept bowing and nodding; and towards the close of the conference, -contrived to smile again pretty decently. His royal highness, I learned -afterwards, was satisfied with my looks and gestures, and even bestowed -a brevet upon me of a great deal more erudition than I possessed or -pretended to. - -The sun set, the dews fell, the Prince retired, Louis de Miranda -followed him, and I remounted my horse with an indigestion of sounding -phrases, and the most confirmed belief that “_the church was in -danger_.” - -Tired and exhausted, I threw myself on my sofa the moment I reached -Ramalhaô; but the agitation of my spirits would not allow me any repose. -I swallowed some tea with avidity, and driving to the palace, evocated -the archbishop confessor, who had been locked up above half-an-hour in -his interior cabinet. To him I related all that had passed at this -unsought, unexpected interview. The consequences in time developed -themselves. - - - - -LETTER XXXII. - - Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the - Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk - on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at - dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary - superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. - - -Nov. 9th, 1787. - -M---- and his principal almoner, a renowned missionary, and one of the -most eloquent preachers in her Majesty’s dominions, were at my door by -ten, waiting to take me with them to the convent of Boa Morte. This is a -true Golgotha, a place of many skulls, for its inhabitants, though they -live, move, and have a sort of being, are little better than skeletons. -The priest who officiated appeared so emaciated and cadaverous, that I -could hardly have supposed he would have had strength sufficient to -elevate the chalice. It did not, however, fall from his hands, and -having finished his mass, a second phantom tottered forth and began -another. From the pictures and images of more than ordinary ghastliness -which cover the chapels and cloisters, and from the deep contrition -apparent in the tears, gestures, and ejaculations of the faithful who -resort to them, I fancy no convent in Lisbon can be compared with this -for austerity and devotion. - -M---- shook all over with piety, and so did his companion, whose knees -are become horny with frequent kneelings, and who, if one is to believe -Verdeil, will end his days in a hermitage, or go mad, or perhaps both. -He pretends, too, that it is this grey-beard that has added new fuel to -the flame of M----’s devotion, and that by mutually encouraging each -other, they will soon produce fruits worthy of Bedlam, if not of -Paradise. To be sure, this father may boast a conspicuously devout turn, -and a most resolute manner of thumping himself; but he must not be too -vain. In Lisbon there are at least fifty or sixty thousand good souls, -who, without having travelled so far, thump full as sonorously as he. -This morning, at Boa Morte, one shrivelled sinner remained the whole -time the masses lasted with outstretched arms, in the shape and with all -the inflexible stiffness of an old-fashioned branched candlestick. -Another contrite personage was so affected at the moment of -consecration, that he flattened his nose on the pavement, and licked the -dirt and dust with which it was thickly encrusted. - -I must confess that, notwithstanding this very superior display of -sanctity, I was not sorry to escape from the dingy cloisters of the -convent, and breathe the pure air, and look up at the blue exhilarating -sky. The weather being delightful, we drove to several distant parts of -the town, to which I was yet a stranger. Returning back by the Bairro -Alto, we looked into a new house, just finished building at an enormous -expense, by Joaô Ferreira, who, from an humble retailer of leather, has -risen, by the archbishop’s favour, to the possession of some of the most -lucrative contracts in Portugal. Uglier-shaped apartments than those the -poor shoe-man had contrived for himself I never beheld. The hangings are -of satin of the deepest blue, and the fiercest and most sulphureous -yellow. Every ceiling is daubed over with allegorical paintings, most -indifferently executed, and loaded with gilt ornaments, in the style of -those splendid sign-posts which some years past were the glory of -High-Holborn and St. Giles’s. - -We were soon tired of all this finery, and as it was growing late, made -the best of our way to Belem. Whilst M---- was writing letters, I walked -out with Don Pedro on the verandas of the palace, which are washed by -the Tagus, and flanked with turrets. The views are enchanting, and the -day being warm and serene, I enjoyed them in all their beauty. Several -large vessels passed by as we were leaning over the balustrades, and -almost touched us with their streamers. Even frigates and ships of the -first rate approach within a quarter of a mile of the palace. - -There was a greater crowd of attendants than usual round our table at -dinner to-day, and the huge massy dishes were brought up by a long train -of gentlemen and chaplains, several of them decorated with the orders of -Avis and Christ. This attendance had quite a feudal air, and transported -the imagination to the days of chivalry, when great chieftains were -waited upon like kings, by noble vassals. - -The Portuguese had need have the stomachs of ostriches to digest the -loads of savoury viands with which they cram themselves. Their -vegetables, their rice, their poultry, are all stewed in the essence of -ham, and so strongly seasoned with pepper and spices, that a spoonful of -peas, or a quarter of an onion, is sufficient to set one’s mouth in a -flame. With such a diet, and the continual swallowing of sweetmeats, I -am not surprised at their complaining so often of head-aches and -vapours. - -Several of the old Marquis of M----’s confidants and buffoons crept -forth to have a peep at the stranger, and hear the famous missionary -descant upon martyrdom and miracles. The scenery of Boa Morte being -fresh in his thoughts, his descriptions were gloomy and appalling: Don -Pedro, his sisters, and his cousin, the young Conde d’Atalaya,[23] -gathered round him with all the trembling eagerness of children who -hunger and thirst after hobgoblin stories. You may be sure he sent them -not empty away. A blacker dose of legendary superstition was never -administered. The Marchioness seemed to swallow these terrific -narrations with nearly as much avidity as her children, and the old -Abade, dropping his chin in a woful manner, produced an enormous rosary, -and kept thumbing his beads and mumbling orisons. - -M---- had luckily been summoned to the palace by a special mandate from -his royal mistress. Had he been of the party, I fear Verdeil’s prophecy -would have been accomplished, for never did mortal hold forth with so -much scaring energy as this enthusiastic preacher. The most terrible -denunciations of divine wrath which ever were thundered forth by ancient -or modern writers of sermons and homilies recurred to his memory, and he -dealt them about him with a vengeance. The last half hour of the -discourse we were all in total darkness,--nobody had thought of calling -for lights: the children were huddled together, scarce venturing to move -or breathe. It was a most singular scene. - -Full of the ghastly images the good father had conjured up in my -imagination, I returned home alone in my carriage, shivering and -shuddering. My friends were out, and nothing could be more dreary than -the appearance of my fireless apartments. - - - - -LETTER XXXIII. - - Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of - beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful - countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of - Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the - Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor’s.--Filial affection.--Last - interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt - regret on leaving Portugal. - - -Sunday, November 25th, 1787. - -What a morning for the 25th of November! The sun shining most -brilliantly, insects fluttering about, and flowers expanding--the late -rains having called forth a second spring, and tinted the hills round -Almada, on the opposite shore of the Tagus, with a lively green. - -I breakfasted alone, Verdeil being gone to St. Roch’s, to see the -ceremony of publishing the bull of the Crusade, which allows good -Christians to eat eggs and butter during Lent, upon paying his holiness -a few shillings. I stayed at home, hearing a rehearsal of Seguidillas, -in preparation for a new intermez at the Salitri theatre, till the hour -of mass was over, then getting into the Portuguese chaise, drove -headlong to the palace in the Placa do Commercio, and hastened to the -Marquis of M----’s apartments. All his family were assembled to dine -with him. - -Had it not been for the thoughts of my approaching departure, I should -have felt more comfort and happiness than has fallen to my lot for a -long interval. M----, whose attendance on the Queen may be too justly -termed a state of downright slavery, had hardly taken his place at -table, before he was called away. The Marchioness, Donna Henriquetta, -and her little sister, soon retreated to the Camareira-Mor’s apartments, -and I was left alone with Pedro and Duarte. They seized fast hold, each -of a hand, and running like greyhounds through long corridors, took me -to a balcony which commands one of the greatest thoroughfares in Lisbon. - -The evening was delightful, and vast crowds of people moving about, of -all degrees and nations, old and young, active and crippled, monks and -officers. Shoals of beggars kept pouring in from every quarter to take -their stands at the gates of the palace and watch the Queen’s going out; -for her Majesty is a most indulgent mother to these sturdy sons of -idleness, and scarcely ever steps into her carriage without distributing -considerable alms amongst them. By this misplaced charity, hundreds of -stout fellows are taught the management of a crutch instead of a musket, -and the art of manufacturing sores, ulcers, and scabby pates, in the -most loathsome perfection. Duarte, who is all life and gaiety, vaulted -upon the railing of the balcony, and hung for a moment or two suspended -in a manner that would have frightened mothers and nurses into -convulsions. The beggars, who had nothing to do till her Majesty should -be forthcoming, seemed to be vastly entertained with these feats of -agility. - -They soon spied me out, and two brawny lubbers, whom an unfortunate -combination of smallpox and king’s-evil had deprived of eye-sight, -informed, no doubt, by their comrades of what was going forward, began a -curious dialogue with voices still deeper and harsher than those of the -holy crows:--“Heaven prosper their noble excellencies, Don Duarte Manoel -and Don Pedro, and all the Marialvas--sweet dear youths, long may they -be blessed with the use of their eyes and of all their limbs! Is that -the charitable Englishman in their sweet company?”--“Yes, my comrade,” -answered the second blind.--“What!” said the first, “that generous -favourite of the most glorious Lord St. Anthony? (O gloriosissimo Senhor -Sant-Antonio!)”--“Yes, my comrade.”--“O that I had but my precious eyes, -that I might enjoy the sight of his countenance!” exclaimed both -together. - -By the time the duet was thus far advanced, the halt, the maimed, and -the scabby, having tied some greasy nightcaps to the end of long poles, -poked them up through the very railing, bawling and roaring out charity, -“charity for the sake of the holy one of Lisbon.” Never was I looked up -to by a more distorted or frightful collection of countenances. I made -haste to throw down a plentiful shower of small copper money, or else -Duarte would have twitched away both poles and nightcaps, a frolic by no -means to be encouraged, as it might have marred our fame for the -readiest and most polite attention to every demand in the name of St. -Anthony. - -Just as the orators were receiving their portion of pence and farthings, -a cry of “There’s the Queen, there’s the Princess!” carried the whole -hideous crowd away to another scene of action, and left me at full -liberty to be amused in my turn with the squirrel-like gambols of my -lively companion; he is really a fine enterprising boy, bold, alert, and -sprightly; quite different from most of his illustrious young relations. - -Don Pedro by no means approved my English partiality to such active -feats, and after scolding his cousin for skipping about in so hazardous -a style, entreated me to take them to the Salitri theatre, where a box -had been prepared for us by his father’s orders. Upon the whole, I was -better entertained than I expected, though the performance lasted above -four hours and a half, from seven to near twelve. It consisted of a -ranting prose tragedy, in three acts, called Sesostris, two ballets, a -pastoral, and a farce. The decorations were not amiss, and the dresses -showy. A shambling, blear-eyed boy, bundled out in weeds of the deepest -sable, squeaked and bellowed alternately the part of a widowed -princess. Another hob-e-di-hoy, tottering on high-heeled shoes, -represented her Egyptian majesty, and warbled two airs with all the -nauseous sweetness of a fluted falsetto. Though I could have boxed his -ears for surfeiting mine so filthily, the audience were of a very -different opinion, and were quite enthusiastic in their applause. - -In the stage-box I observed the mincing Countess of Pombeiro, whose -light hair and waxen complexion was finely contrasted by the ebon hue of -two little negro attendants perched on each side of her. It is the high -tone at present in this court to be surrounded by African implings, the -more hideous, the more prized, and to bedizen them in the most expensive -manner. The Queen has set the example, and the royal family vie with -each other in spoiling and caressing Donna Rosa, her Majesty’s -black-skinned, blubber-lipped, flat-nosed favourite. - -One of the ballets was admirably got up; upon the rising of the curtain, -a strange cabalistic apartment is discovered, where an astrologer -appears very busy at a table covered with spheres and astrolabes, -arranging certain mysterious images, and pinking their eyes with a -gigantic pair of black compasses. A sort of Pierrot announces some -inquisitive travellers, who enter with many bows and scrapings. One of -them, the chief of the party, an old dapper beau in pink and silver, -reminded me very much of the Duke d’Alafoens, and sidled along and -tossed his cane about, and seemed to ask questions without waiting for -answers, with as good a grace as that janty general. The astrologer, -after explaining the wonders of his apartment with many pantomimical -contortions, invites his company to follow him, and the scene changes to -a long gallery, illuminated with a profusion of lights in gilt branches. -The perspective ends in a flight of steps, upon each of which stands a -row of figures, pantaloons, harlequins, sultans, sultanas, Indian -chiefs, devils, and savages, to all appearance motionless. Pierrot -brings in a machine like a hand-organ, and his master begins to grind, -the music accompanying. At the first chord, down drop the arms of all -the figures; at the second, each rank descends a step, and so on, till -gaining the level of the stage, and the astrologer grinding faster and -faster, the supposed clock-work-assembly begin a general dance. - -Their ballet ended, the same accords are repeated, and all hop up in the -same stiff manner they hopped down. The travellers, highly pleased with -the show, depart; Pierrot, who longs to be grinding, persuades his -master to take a walk, and leave him in possession of the gallery. He -consents; but enjoins the gaping oaf upon no account to meddle with the -machine, or set the figures in motion. Vain are his directions! no -sooner has he turned his back than Pierrot goes to work with all his -strength; the figures fall a shaking as if on the point of disjoining -themselves; creak, crack, grinds the machine with horrid harshness; -legs, arms, and noddles are thrown into convulsions, three steps are -jumped at once. Pierrot, frightened out of his senses at the goggle-eyed -crowd advancing upon him, clings close to the machine and gives the -handle no respite. The music, too, degenerates into the most jarring, -screaking sounds, and the figures knocking against each other, and -whirling round and round in utter confusion, fall flat upon the stage. -Pierrot runs from group to group in rueful despair, tries in vain to -reanimate them, and at length losing all patience, throws one over the -other, and heaps sultanas upon savages, and shepherds upon devilkins. -Most of these personages being represented by boys of twelve or thirteen -were easily wielded. After Pierrot has finished tossing and tumbling, he -drops down exhausted and lies as dead as his neighbours, hoping to -escape unnoticed amongst them. But this subterfuge avails him not; in -comes the astrologer armed with his compasses; back he starts at sight -of the confounded jumble. Pierrot pays for it all, is soon drawn forth -from his lurking-place, and the astrologer grinding in a moderate and -scientific manner, the figures lift themselves up, and returning all in -_status quo_, the ballet finishes. - -Shall I confess that this nonsense amused me pretty nearly as much as it -did my companions, whose raptures were only exceeded by those of madame -de Pombeiro’s implings. They, sweet, sooty innocents, kept gibbering and -pointing at the man with the black compasses in a manner so completely -African and ludicrous, that I thought their contortions the best part -of the entertainment. - -The play ended, we hastened back to the palace, and traversing a number -of dark vestibules and guard-chambers, (all of a snore with jaded -equerries,) were almost blinded with a blaze of light from the room in -which supper was served up. There we found in addition to all the -Marialvas, the old marquis only excepted, the Camareira-mor, and five or -six other hags of supreme quality, feeding like cormorants upon a -variety of high-coloured and high-seasoned dishes. I suppose the keen -air from the Tagus, which blows right into the palace-windows, operates -as a powerful whet, for I never beheld eaters or eateresses, no not even -our old acquaintance madame la Présidente at Paris, lay about them with -greater intrepidity. To be sure, it was a splendid repast, quite a -banquet. We had manjar branco and manjar real, and among other good -things a certain preparation of rice and chicken, which suited me -exactly, and no wonder, for this excellent mess had been just tossed up -by Donna Isabel de Castro with her own illustrious hands, in a nice -little kitchen adjoining the queen’s apartment, in which all the -utensils are of solid silver. - -The number of lights upon the table, and of attendants and pages in rich -uniforms around it, was prodigious; but what interested me far more than -all this parade, was the sportive good-humour and frankness of the -company. How it happened that the presence of a stranger failed to -inspire any reserve, is one of those odd circumstances I can hardly -account for; especially as the higher orders of the Portuguese are the -farthest removed of all persons from admitting any but their nearest -relations to these family parties; but so it was, and I felt both -flattered and gratified at being permitted to witness the ease and -hilarity which prevailed. - -The dutiful, affectionate attention of the younger part of the company -to their parents was truly amiable; nor do I believe that, at this day -in any other realm in Europe, the sacred precept of honouring your -father and your mother is so cordially observed as in Portugal. Happy -if, in our intercourse with that nation, we had profited in that respect -by their example; the peace of so many of our noblest families would -not have been disturbed by the lowest connexions, nor their best blood -contaminated by matches of the most immoral, degrading tendency. We -should not have seen one year a performer acting the part of lady this -or lady t’other upon the stage, and the next in the drawing-room; nor, -upon entering some of our principal houses, have been tempted to cry -out--“Bless me! that lovely countenance is the same I recollect adoring -by moonlight on the fine broad flagstones of Bond Street or Portland -Place!”[24] - -It was now after two in the morning, and I must own, notwithstanding the -good cheer of which I had participated, and the kind entertainment I had -received, I began to feel a little tired. The children were in such -spirits, so full of frolic, and her sublimity, the Camareira-mor, so -unusually tolerant and condescending, that there was no knowing when -the party would break up. Taking, therefore, my leave in due form, I -made my retreat escorted by half-a-dozen torch-bearers. - -Just as I had gotten about half-way on my journey through what appeared -to me interminable passages, I was arrested in my progress by a pair of -dominicans, father Rocha, and his scarecrow satellite frè Josè do -Rosario. A person less accustomed than I had lately been to such -apparitions would have been startled; especially, too, if he had found -himself like me between the most formidable living pillars of the holy -inquisition. - -“What are you doing here so very late,” I could not help exclaiming, “my -reverend fathers? What’s the matter?” - -“The matter is,” answered Rocha, with a voice of terrific hoarseness, -“that we have caught cold waiting for you in these confounded corridors. -The archbishop, above half-an-hour ago, commanded us to bring you to him -dead or alive; but a rascally jackanapes in waiting upon her excellency -the Camareira-mor would not let us in to deliver our message, so we -have been airing ourselves hitherto to no purpose.” - -“Do you know,” said Rocha, taking me into a little room where a lamp was -still burning, “that affairs do not go on so smoothly as they ought? The -archbishop seems to have lost both time and temper since he has been -pressed into the cabinet; and, as for the Prince of Brazil and his -consort, God forgive me for wishing their advisers and all their -intrigues in the lowest abyss of perdition. How can you be scheming a -journey to Madrid at this season? The floods are out, and the robbers -also, and I tell you what, as the archbishop says twenty times a day, if -you do go you deserve to be drowned and murdered.” - -“The die is cast,” I replied, “and I must take my chance; but really I -wish you would have the goodness to bid the archbishop a very good night -in my name, and let me put off asking his benediction till to-morrow, -for I am quite jaded.” - -“Jaded or not,” answered the monk, “you must come with me; the wind is -up in the archbishop’s brain just at this moment, and by the least -contradiction more would become a hurricane.” - -Finding resistance vain, I suffered myself to be conducted through two -or three open courts, very refreshing at this hour you may suppose, and -up a little staircase into the archbishop’s interior cabinet. All was -still as death--no lay-brother bustling about--no sound audible but a -low breathing, which now and then swelled into a half suppressed groan, -from the agitated prelate, whom we found knee-deep in papers, immersed -in thought. - -“So,” said he, “there you are at last. What have you been doing all this -while? Who but a brute of an Englishman would have kept me waiting. Ay, -ay, you told me how it would be, and you are right. They plague my soul -out. We have twenty rascals pulling as many ways. Your people too are -not what they used to be, though Mello would make us believe to the -contrary. One thing I know for certain, some infernal mischief is -afloat, and unless God’s grace is speedily manifested, I see no end to -confusion, and wish myself anywhere but where I am. These -smooth-tongued, Frenchified, Italian, Voltaireists and encyclopedians -have poisoned all sound doctrine. Ay,” continued he, rising up, with an -expression of indignation and anger I never saw before on his -countenance, “somebody’s ears[25] are poisoned whom I could name.... But -where is the use of talking to you? You are determined to leave us, be -it so. God’s providence is above all. He knows what is best for you, and -for me, and for these kingdoms. There is your passport, countersigned by -your friend Mello; and here is a letter for Lorenzana, and another for -his catholic majesty’s confessor, in which I tell him what an amazing -fool you are, and unless you continue one without any remission, we -shall soon have you back again. Tell Marialva,” he added, addressing -himself to Rocha (for the other father had not been admitted), “tell -Marialva and all his friends that I have dried up my tongue almost more -times than one, in attempting to argue a thousand silly whimsies and -crotchets out of his harum-scarum English brain; but come,” said he, -extending his arms, “I bear no malice, I pity, I do not condemn. Let me -give you an embrace, and pray God it may not be the last you will -receive from me.” - -It was, alas! the last I ever received from him, poor, honest-hearted, -kind old man! A sort of melancholy foreboding which seemed to pervade -all he said in this interview was too soon realized. The fatal tide of -events flowing on as it were with redoubled, tremendous velocity, swept -away in the course of a few short months from this period the Prince of -Brazil, the lovely and amiable infanta his sister, her husband Don -Gabriel of Spain, and the good old King Charles the Third. Not long -after, the archbishop-confessor himself was called from the plenitude of -power and the enjoyment of unrivalled influence to the presence of that -Being in whose sight “no man living shall be justified;” but as in many -trying and peculiar instances he had shown the tenderest mercy, it may -tremblingly be hoped that mercy has been shown to him. Notwithstanding -the bluntness of his manner, the kindness of his heart, so apparent in -his good-humoured, benevolent eye, found its way, almost imperceptibly -to himself, to the hearts of others, and tempered the despotic roughness -he sometimes assumed both in voice and gesture. - -I still seem to behold the last, earnest, solemn look he gave me when, -the door closing, he retired to the cares of state, and I with my escort -of torch-bearers and dominicans hastened forth to breathe the open air, -of which I stood greatly in need. Many things I had heard, and many -others I conjectured, above all, the reluctance I felt at the bottom of -my heart to leave a country in which I had received such uncommon marks -of friendship, bore heavily upon me. When I got home, scarcely two hours -before daybreak, and tried to compose myself to sleep, I was neither -refreshed nor recruited, but experienced the agitation of feverish and -broken slumbers. - - - - -LETTER XXXIV. - - Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by Perez and - Jomelli.--Marialva’s affecting address.--My sorrow and anxiety. - - -26th Nov. 1787. - -I went to the church of the Martyrs to hear the matins of Perez and the -dead mass of Jomelli performed by all the principal musicians of the -royal chapel for the repose of the souls of their deceased predecessors. -Such august, such affecting music I never heard, and perhaps may never -hear again; for the flame of devout enthusiasm burns dim in almost every -part of Europe, and threatens total extinction in a very few years. As -yet it glows at Lisbon, and produced this day the most striking musical -effect. - -Every individual present seemed penetrated with the spirit of those -awful words which Perez and Jomelli have set with tremendous sublimity. -Not only the music, but the serious demeanour of the performers, of the -officiating priests, and indeed of the whole congregation, was -calculated to impress a solemn, pious terror of the world beyond the -grave. The splendid decoration of the church was changed into mourning, -the tribunes hung with black, and a veil of gold and purple thrown over -the high altar. In the midst of the choir stood a catafalque surrounded -with tapers in lofty candelabra, a row of priests motionless on each -side. There was an awful silence for several minutes, and then began the -solemn service of the dead. The singers turned pale as they sang, “Timor -mortis me conturbat.” - -After the requiem, the high mass of Jomelli, in commemoration of the -deceased, was performed; that famous composition which begins with a -movement imitative of the tolling of bells, - - “Swinging slow with sullen roar.” - -These deep, majestic sounds, mingled with others like the cries for -mercy of unhappy beings, around whom the shadows of death and the pains -of hell were gathering, shook every nerve in my frame, and called up in -my recollection so many affecting images, that I could not refrain from -tears. - -I scarcely knew how I was conveyed to the palace, where Marialva -expected my coming with the utmost impatience. Our conversation took a -most serious turn. He entreated me not to forget Portugal, to meditate -upon the awful service I had been hearing, and to remember he should not -die in peace unless I was present to close his eyes. - -In the actual tone of my mind I was doubly touched by this melancholy, -affectionate address. It seemed to cut through my soul, and I execrated -Verdeil and all those who had been instrumental in persuading me to -abandon such a friend. The grand prior wept bitterly at seeing my -agitation. Marialva went to the queen, and the grand prior home with me. -We dined alone; my heart was full of heaviness, and I could not eat. At -night we returned to the palace, and there all my sorrow and anxiety was -renewed. - - - - -SPAIN. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The - church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built - by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach Arroyolos. - - -Wednesday, Nov. 28th, 1787. - -The winds are reposing themselves, and the surface of the Tagus has all -the smoothness of a mirror. The clouds are dispersing, for it rained -heavily in the night, and the sun tinging the distant mountains of -Palmella. Charming weather for crossing to Aldea Gallega, that self-same -village in whose praises Baretti launches out with so much luxuriance. -Horne and his nephew accompanied me to the stairs of Pampulha, where the -old marquis’s scalera was waiting for me, with eight-and-twenty rowers -in their bright scarlet accoutrements. - -Beggars innumerable, blind, dumb, and scabby, followed me almost into -the water. No beggars equal those of Portugal for strength of lungs, -luxuriance of sores, profusion of vermin, variety and arrangement of -tatters, and dauntless perseverance. Several clocks were striking one -when we pushed off from the shore, and in a few minutes less than two -hours we found ourselves at Aldea Gallega, four leagues from Lisbon. -Vast numbers of boats and skiffs passed us in the course of our -navigation, which I should have thought highly agreeable in other -circumstances; but I felt oppressed and melancholy; the thoughts of my -separation from the Marialvas bearing heavily on my mind. Nor could the -grand prospects of the river, and its shores, crowded with convents, -towers, and palaces, remove this dead cold weight a single instant. - -The sun having sunk into watery clouds, the expanse of the Tagus wore a -dismal, leaden-coloured aspect. Lisbon was cast into shade, and the huge -mass of the convent of San Vicente, crowning an eminence, looked dark -and solemn. The low shores of Aldea Gallega are pleasant and woody; -many varieties of the tulip, the iris, and other bulbous roots, already -springing up under the protection of spreading pines. - -Instead of going to a swinish, stinking estellagem, my courier, Martinho -de mello’s prime favourite, and the one he employs upon the most -confidential negociations, conducted me to the postmaster’s; a neat, -snug habitation, where I found very tolerable accommodations, and dined -in the midst of a vapour of burnt lavender, that was near depriving us -of all appetite. - -Before I sat down to table, I wrote to M----, and sent my letter by the -return of the scalera. It was not without difficulty I wrote then, or -write at present, for my kind host, the postmaster, has not only the -same age, but equal glibness of tongue as the abade. They were -cotemporary at Coimbra, and their tongues have kept pace with each other -these eighty years. The postmaster is blessed with a most tenacious -memory, and having been a mighty reader of operas, serenatas, sonnets, -and romances, seemed to sweat verses at every pore. For three hours he -gave neither himself nor us any respite, but spouted whole volleys of -Metastasio, till he was black in the face. Having washed down the heroic -sentiments of Megacle, Artaserse, and Demetrio with a dish of tea, he -fell to quoting Spanish and Latin authors, Ovid, Seneca, Lopez de Vega, -Calderon, with the same volubility. - -As millers sleep sound to the click of their mill, so I, at the end of -the two hours’ gabbling, was perfectly well-seasoned, and let him run on -with the most resigned composure, writing and reading as unconcernedly -as if in a convent of Carthusians. - - -Thursday, November 29th. - -There was a continual racket in the house and about the street-door all -night. At four o’clock the baggage-carts set forth, with a tremendous -jingling of bells. The morning was so soft and vernal, that we drank our -chocolate on the veranda, which commands a wild rural view of shrubby -fields and scattered pines, terminated by a long range of blue hills, -most picturesquely varied in form, if not in colour. - -After breakfast I went to the church, which Colmenar pretends is -magnificently gilt and ornamented; but which, in fact, can boast no -other decoration than a few shabby altars, displaying the images of -Nossa Senhora, and the patron saint, in tinselled garments of faded -taffeta. I knelt on a mouldy pavement, and felt a chill wind issuing -from between the crevices of loose grave-stones, that returned a hollow -sound when I rose up and walked over them. A priest, who was saying -mass, officiated with uncommon slowness and solemnity. It was hardly -light in the recesses of the chapels. - -Soon after eight o’clock we left Aldea Gallega, and ploughed through -deep furrows of sand at the sober rate of two miles and a half in an -hour. On both sides of the heavy road the eye ranges uninterrupted, -except by the stems of starveling pines, through a boundless extent of -barren country, overgrown with stunted ilex and gum-cistus. The same -scenery lasted without any variation full five leagues, to the venta de -Pegoens, where I am now writing, in a long dismal room, with plastered -walls, a damp brick-floor, and cracked window-shutters. A pack of -half-famished dogs are leaping around me, their eyes ready to start out -of their sockets and their ribs out of their skin. - -After dining upon the provisions we brought with us, of which the -yelping generation enjoyed no inconsiderable share, we proceeded through -sandy wilds diversified alone by pines. Not a single habitation -occurred, till by a glimmering dubious starlight, for it was now -half-past seven, we discovered the extensive front of a palace, built in -the year 1729, by John the fifth, for the accommodation of the infanta -of Spain, who married his son, the late king D. Josè. Here we were to -lodge, and I was rather surprised, upon entering a long suite of -well-proportioned apartments, to find doors and windows still capable of -being shut and opened, large chimneys guiltless of smoking out of their -right channel, and painted ceilings without cracks or crevices. - -A young priest, neither deficient in manners nor erudition, the keeper -of this solitary palace, did his utmost to make our stay in it -agreeable. By his attention, we had some chairs and tables placed by a -blazing fire, which I worshipped with all the fervour of an ancient -Persian. I had need of this consolation, being much disordered by the -tiresome dragging of our heavy coach through heaps of sand, and -depressed with feverish shiverings. - - -Friday, November 30th. - -It was a long while last night before I composed myself to sleep, and -being called at the first dawn, I rose, if possible, more indisposed -than when I lay down; I could scarcely swallow any refreshment, and kept -walking disconsolately through the vast range of naked apartments, till -the rays of the rising sun entered the windows. The horizon glowed with -ruddy clouds. The vast desert levels, discovered from the balconies of -the palace, gleamed with dewy verdure. I hastened out to breathe the -fresh morning air, impregnated with the perfume of a thousand aromatic -shrubs and opening flowers. I could not believe it was the last day of -November, but fancied I had slept away the winter, and was just awakened -in the month of May. - -To enjoy these fragrant breezes in full liberty, I left our carriage to -drag along as slowly as the mules pleased, and the muleteers to smoke -their cigarros as deliberately as they thought proper; and mounting my -horse, rode the best part of the way to Montemor; which is built on the -acclivity of a mountain, and surrounded on every side by groves of -olives. The whole face of the country is covered by the same -vegetation, and, of course, presents no very cheerful appearance. - -About a mile from Montemor we crossed a clear river, whose banks are -thick-set with poplars, and a light, airy species of broom, intermixed -with indian-fig, and laurustine in full blossom. The bees were swarming -amongst the flowers, and filling the air with their hum. - -Whilst our dinner was preparing we climbed up the green slopes of a -lofty hill, to some ruins on its summit; and passing under a narrow arch -discovered a broad flight of steps, which lead to a very ancient church -of gothic uncouth architecture: the pavement almost entirely composed of -sepulchral slabs and brasses. As we walked on a platform before the -entrance, the sun shone so fiercely that we were glad to descend the -eminence on its shadiest side, and take refuge in a cavern-like -apartment of the estallagem, very damp and dingy; but in which, however, -an excellent dinner awaited our arrival. - -We set out at two in a blaze of sunshine, so cheerful and reviving, that -I got once more on horseback, and never dismounted till I reached -Arroyolos. Just as we came in sight of this ugly old town, which, like -Montemor, crowns the summit of a rocky eminence, it fell totally dark; -but the postmaster coming forth with torches, lighted us through several -winding alleys to his house. I found some pleasant apartments amply -furnished, and richly carpeted, and had the comfort of settling myself -by a crackling fire, writing to the whole circle of the Marialvas, and -drinking tea without being attacked by quotations of Virgil and -Metastasio. - - - - -LETTER II. - - A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An - outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our - reception there.--My visiters. - - -Saturday, December 1st, 1787. - -Hitherto I have had no reason to complain of my accommodations in -travelling through Portugal. A mandate from the governor procured me -milk this morning for my breakfast, much against the will of the -proprietor, who had a great inclination to keep all to himself. The idea -of its being squeezed out by force, persuaded me that it had a very sour -taste, and I hardly touched it. - -I laid in a stock of carpets for my journey, of strange grotesque -patterns and glaring colours, the produce of a manufactory in this town, -which employs about three hundred persons. Methinks I begin to write as -dully as Major W. Dalrymple, whose dry journal of travels through a -part of Spain I had the misfortune of reading in the coach this morning, -as we jogged and jolted along the dreary road between Arroyolos and -Venta do Duque. - -We passed a wild tract of forest-land, and saw numerous herds of swine -luxuriously scratching themselves against the rugged bark of cork-trees, -and routing up the moss at their roots in search of acorns. Venta do -Duque is a sty right worthy of being the capital of hoggish dominions. -It can boast, however, of a chimney, which, giving us the opportunity of -making a fire, rendered our stay in it less intolerable. - -The evening turned out cloudy and cold. Before we arrived at Estremoz, -another city on a hill, better and farther seen than it merits, it began -to rain with a vengeance. I hear it splashing and driving this moment in -the puddles which lie in the vast, forlorn market-place, at one end of -which our posada is situated. For Portugal, this posada is by no means -indifferent; the walls and ceilings have been neatly whitewashed, and -here are chairs and tables. My carpets are of essential service in -protecting my feet from the damp brick-floors. I have spread them all -round my bed, and they make a flaming exotic appearance. - - -Sunday, December 2nd. - -When I opened my eyes about seven in the morning, the sky was still -dismal and lowering; and a crowd of human figures, enveloped in dark -capotes, were just issuing from several dens and lurking-places on each -side the entrance of the posada. A fair, which was held to-day, had -drawn them together, and they were lamenting in chorus the rainy -weather, which prevented the display of their rural finery. Most of -these good people had passed the night in the stables of the posada. As -I came down stairs, I saw several of their companions of both sexes -lying about like the killed and wounded on a field of battle; or, to use -a less fatal comparison, like the dead-drunk during a contested election -in England. - -From the windows of the posada I looked down on a vast opening a -thousand feet in breadth, surrounded by irregular buildings; amongst -which I could not discover any of those handsome edifices adorned with -marble columns, some travelling scribblers mention in terms of the -highest commendation. The marble tower, too, they describe, built by Don -Deniz, has totally lost its polish, if true it is it ever had any. - -Hard by the posada is a little chapel, to which I repaired as soon as I -had breakfasted, and heard an outrageous sermon preached by a -grey-headed, fiery-eyed capuchin, to a troop of blubbering females. - -As it did not positively rain, but only drizzled, after the fashion of -my own dear native country, I rode part of the way to Elvas, and -traversed boundless wastes of gum-cistus, whose dark-green casts a -melancholy shade over the face of the country. A mile or two from Elvas, -the scene changes to a forest of olives, with fountains by the wayside, -and avenues of poplars, which were not yet deprived of their foliage. -Above their summits tower the arches of an aqueduct, supported by strong -buttresses, and presenting, when seen in perspective, an appearance, in -some points of view, not unlike that of a ruined gothic cathedral. The -ramparts of Elvas are laid out and planted much in the style of our -English gardens, and form very delightful walks. - -Upon entering the town, which seems populous and thriving, we were -conducted to a very clean neat house, prepared for our reception by -order of the governor, Monsieur de Vallarè. A dignified sort of a page, -or groom of the chambers, in a blue coat richly laced, and the order of -St. Jago dangling at his buttonhole, stood ready at the door to show us -up stairs, and, according to the Portuguese system of politeness, never -quitted our elbows a single moment. - -I had hardly reconnoitred my new apartments, before Monsieur de Vallarè -was announced. He brought with him the Abade Correa, one of the -luminaries of modern Portuguese literature, whose conversation afforded -me great amusement. We sallied out together to visit the fortifications, -the stables for the cavalry, and barracks for the soldiers, which are -all in admirable order; thanks to the governor, who is indefatigable in -his exertions, and retains at a very experienced age the agility of -five-and-twenty. I was delighted with his cheerful, military frankness, -and unaffected attentions. He told me, he had stood the fire of our -formidable column at Fontenoy, and never enjoyed himself so much in his -life, as in the smoke and havoc of that furious engagement. - -From one of the bastions to which he conducted us, we had a distinct -view of the fort de la Lippe, erected at an enormous expense on the -summit of a woody mountain. Had the weather been fine, it might have -tempted me to climb up to it; but showers beginning to descend, I -preferred taking shelter in a snug apartment of the maréchal, enlivened -by a blazing pile of aromatic woods, raised up on a grate in a -christian-like manner. The abade and I drawing close to this hospitable -hearth, talked over Lisbon and its inhabitants; whilst Verdeil amused -himself with scrutinizing some minerals the maréchal had collected, and -which lay scattered about his room. - -In these occupations the time passed till supper. We had pork delicately -flavoured, exquisite quails, and salads, prepared in different manners, -the most delicious I ever tasted. Our conversation was lively and -unrestrained; Correa has an originality of genius and freedom of -sentiment, which the terrors of the inquisition have not yet -extinguished. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer’s - enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast - plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Names and characters of - our mules.--Posada at Merida. - - -Monday, Dec. 3rd, 1787. - -The maréchal and the abade breakfasted with me, but the rain prevented -my taking another walk about the fortifications, and seeing the troops -go through their exercise. At ten we set off, well escorted, traversed a -dismal plain, and passed a rivulet which separates the two kingdoms. No -sooner had one of our muleteers passed this boundary, than cutting a -cross in the turf with his knife, he fell prostrate and kissed the -ground with a transport of devotion. - -Upon ascending the bank of the rivulet we came in sight of Badajoz and -its long narrow bridge over the Guadiana. The custom-house was all -mildness and moderation. Its harpies have neither flown away with my -books, as Bezerra predicted, nor set their talons in my coffers. At -sight of my passport, such a one, I believe, as is not very frequently -granted, all difficulties gave way, and I was permitted to enter the -lonely, melancholy streets of Badajoz, without being stopped an instant, -or having my baggage ransacked. - -This circumstance, no wonder, gave me greater satisfaction than the -aspect of the town and its inhabitants, which is decidedly gloomy. Every -house almost has grated-windows, and the few human creatures that stared -at us from them, were muffled up to their noses in heavy mantles of the -darkest colours. - -We continued winding half an hour in slow and solemn procession through -narrow streets and alleys, whose gutters were full to the brim, before -we reached the large dingy mansion their excellencies, the governor and -intendant, had been so gracious as to allot for my reception. Both these -personages were, providentially, laid up with agues, or else, it seems, -I should have been honoured with their company the whole evening. - -A mob of eyes and mantles, for neither mouths, arms, nor scarcely legs -were discernible, assembled round the carriages the moment they halted, -and had the patience to remain in the street, silently smoking their -cigarros, the whole time I was at dinner. - -It was night before I rose from table, crept down stairs, and, though it -continued raining at frequent intervals, waded to the cathedral, through -much mire, and between several societies of hogs, which lay sweetly -sleeping to the murmur of dropping eaves, in the midst of gutters and -kennels. - -The cathedral is formed by three aisles of equal breadth, supported by -pillars and arches, in a tolerably good pointed style. Several lofty -chapels open into them, with solemn gates of iron. In the centre of the -middle aisle some bungling architect has awkwardly stuck the choir, not -many paces from the principal entrance, and by so doing has shut out the -view of the high altar: no great loss, however, the high altar looking -little better than a huge mass of rock-work, gilt and burnished. Under -the choir is a staircase leading down to the grated entrance of a vault. -Lamps were burning before many of the altars, and they distributed a -faint light throughout the whole edifice. - -I paced silently to and fro in the aisles, whilst the canons were -chaunting vespers. The choristers still retain the same dress in which -St. Anthony is represented, in the picture which hung by the miraculous -cross he indented when flying the persecutions of Satan. There was a -solemnity in the glimmer of the lamps, the gloomy, indefinite depth of -the chapels, and the darkness of the vault beneath the choir, that -affected me. I passed a very uncomfortable evening, and a worse night. - - -Tuesday, Dec. 4. - -Not a wink of sleep did the musquitos allow me. I was glad to call for -lights at four, and was still happier to step into the coach at five; -from that hour to half-past-eight I contrived to slumber in a feverish, -agitated manner, that did me little good. - -When I opened my eyes, I found myself traversing a vast plain as level -as the ocean. In summer, this waste must convey none but ideas of -sterility and desolation; at present, a fresh verdure, browsed by -numerous flocks, rendered its appearance tolerable. The sheep, which -are large and thriving, have fleeces as long and as silky as the hair of -a barbet, combed every day by the hands of its mistress. I observed -numbers of lambs of the most shining whiteness, with black ears and -noses; just such neat little animals as those I remember to have seen in -the era of Dresden china, at the feet of smirking shepherdesses. - -We dined at a village of mud cottages, called Lubaon, situated on some -rising ground, about eighteen miles from Badajoz, whose inhabitants seem -to have attained the last stage of poverty and wretchedness. Two or -three withered hags, that even in the prophet Habakkuk’s resurrection of -dry bones, would have attracted attention, laid hold of me the moment I -got out of the carriage. I thought the cold hand of the weird sisters -was giving me a gripe; and trembled lest, whether I would or not, I -might hear some fatal prediction. To get out of their way I flew to the -church, an old gothic building, placed on the edge of a steep, which -shelves almost perpendicularly down to the banks of the Guadiana, and -took sanctuary in its porch. There I remained till summoned to dinner, -listening to the murmur of the distant river flowing round sandy -islands. - -I won the hearts of my muleteers by caressing their mules, and inquiring -with a respectful earnestness their names and characters. Capitana may -be depended upon in cases of labour and difficulty; Valerosa is skittish -and enterprising; Pelerina rather sluggish and cowardly; but la -Commissaria unites every mulish perfection; is tractable, steady, and -sure-footed, and at the same time (to use the identical expression of my -calasero) the greatest driver of dirt before her in the universe. She is -certainly an animal of uncommon resolution; and when tired to death by -the slow paces of her companions, how often have I wished myself -abandoned to her guidance in a light two-wheeled chaise. - -We left Lubaon at half-past two, and, as I had the happiness of sleeping -almost the whole way to Merida, can give little account of the country. - -I was hardly awake, when we entered the posada at Merida, and started -back, dazzled with an illumination of wax-lights, solemnly stuck in -sconces all round a lofty room, with glaring white walls, as if I had -been expected to lie in state. In the middle of the apartment stood a -large brasier, full of glowing embers, exhaling so strong a perfume of -rosemary and lavender, that my head swam, and I reeled like a drunkard. -But as soon as this vile machine was removed, I sat down to write in -peace and comfort. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Arrival at Miaxadas.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal - country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense - wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--A - terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range of lofty - mountains.--Calzada. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 5th, 1787. - -About five leagues from Merida we stopped at a hovel too wretched to -afford shelter even to our mules. The situation, amidst green hills -scattered over with picturesque ilex, is not unpleasant; and such was -the mildness of the day, that we spread our table on a knoll, and dined -in the open air, surrounded by geese and asses, to whom I distributed -ample slices of water-melons. From this spot three short leagues brought -us to Miaxadas, where we arrived at night. Its inhabitants were gathered -in clusters at their doors, each holding a lamp, and crying, “Biva! -Biva!” - -Instead of entering a dirty posada, my courier ushered me into a sort -of gallery, with a handsome arched roof, matted all over, and set round -with gilt chairs. The donna de la casa made very low obeisances, not -without great primness, and her maids sang tirannas with a wailful -monotony that wore my very soul out. - - -Thursday, Dec. 6th. - -Soaking rain and dismal country, thick strewn with fragments of rock. -Mountains wrapped in mists,--here and there a few green spots studded -with mushrooms. We went seven leagues without stopping, and reached -Truxillo by four. It was this gloomy city, situated on a black eminence, -that gave birth to the ruthless Pizarro, the scourge of the Peruvians, -and the murderer of Atabaliba. We were lodged in a very tolerable -posada, unmolested by speech-makers, and heard no noise but the -trickling of showers. - - -Friday, Dec. 7th. - -I was awakened at five: the gutters were pouring, and all the -water-spouts of Truxillo streaming with rain. An hour and a half did I -pass in a ghostly twilight, my candles being packed up, and all the oil -of the house expended. It required great exertion on the part of my -vigilant courier to prevail on our hulky muleteers to expose themselves -to the bad weather. - -At length, with much ado, we rumbled out of Truxillo, and after -traversing for the space of two leagues the nakedest and most dreary -region I ever beheld, a faint gleam of sunshine melted the deadly white -of the thick clouds which hung over us, and the horizon brightening up, -we discovered a wood of cork-trees interspersed with lawns extending as -far as the eye could stretch itself. These green spots continued to -occur our whole way to Saraseços. There we halted, dined in haste at not -half so wretched a posada as I had been taught to expect, and continuing -our route, the sky clearing, ascended a mountain, from whose brow we -looked down on a valley variegated with patches of ploughed land, wild -shrubberies, and wandering rivulets. - -We had not much time to feast our eyes with this pastoral prospect; the -clouds soon rolled over it, and we found ourselves in a damp fog. The -rest of our journey to Almaraz was a total blank; we saw nothing and -heard nothing, and arrived at the place of our destination in perfect -health and stupidity. - -The escrivano, who is the judge and jury of the village, was so kind as -to accommodate us with his house, and so polite as not to incommode us -with his presence. He is a holy man, and a strenuous advocate for the -immaculate conception, no less than three large folios upon that -mysterious subject lying about in his apartment. - - -Saturday, Dec. 8th. - -Whilst the muleteers were harnessing their beasts together with rotten -cords, I took up a little old book of my pious host’s, full of the most -dismal superstitions, entitled _Espeio de Cristal fino, y Antorcha que -aviva el alma_, and read in it till I was benumbed with horror. Many -pages are engrossed with a description of the state into which the -author imagines we are plunged immediately after death. The body he -supposes conscious of all that befalls it in the grave, of exchanging -its warm, comfortable habitation for the cold, pestilential soil of a -churchyard, conscious that its friends have abandoned it for ever, and -of its inability to call them back; to be sensible of the approaches and -progress of the most loathsome corruption, and to hear the voice of an -accusing angel, recapitulating its offences, and summoning it to the -judgment of God. The book ends with a vehement exhortation to repent -while there is yet time, and to procure by fervent prayer, and ample -donations to religious communities, the intercession of the host of -martyrs and of Nuestra Señora. I can easily conceive these scarecrow -publications of infinite use in frightening three parts of mankind out -of their senses, prolonging the reign, and swelling the coffers of the -clergy. - -The horrid images I had seen in this (Espeio) mirror haunted my fancy -for several hours. To dissipate them I mounted my horse, and eagerly -inhaled the fresh breezes that blew over springing herbage, and wastes -of lavender. The birds were singing, the clouds dividing, and -discovering long tracts of soft blue sky. I galloped gaily along a level -country, interspersed with woods of ilex, to the village of Laval de -Moral, where the inhabitants were most devoutly employed in their -churches conciliating the favour of the madonna by keeping holy the -festival of the immaculate conception. There the coach coming up with -me, I got in; and the mules dragging it along at a rate which in the -days of my fire and fury would have made me thump out its bottom with -impatience, I fell into a resigned slumber, and am ignorant of every -object between Laval de Moral and Calzada, in sight of which town I -awoke near five in the evening. - -The sun was setting in a sea of molten gold, and tinging the snows of a -range of lofty mountains, which I discovered for the first time bounding -our horizon. I might have seen them before most probably, had they not -remained till this evening wrapped up in rainy vapours. - -It is at their base the Escurial is situated. I had the consolation of -stepping out of the coach at Calzada into a house with cheerful, neat -apartments, with an open gallery, where I walked contemplating the red -streams of light, and brilliant skirted clouds of the western sky, till -dinner came upon table. Though the doors and windows were all wide open, -I suffered no inconvenience worth mentioning from cold. The master of -the house, a portly, pompous barber-surgeon, most firm in his belief of -the supremacy of Spain over every country in the universe, confessed, -however, the weather was uncommonly warm, and that so mild a month of -December was rather extraordinary. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera--Drawling - tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at Santa Olaya.--The - lady of the house, and her dogs and dancers. - - -Sunday, December 9th, 1787. - -The mountains I saw yesterday are called the Sierra de los Gregos, and -the winds that blow over their summits begin to chill the atmosphere; -but the sun is shining gloriously, and not a cloud obscures his -effulgence. The stars were still twinkling in the firmament, when I was -attracted to mass in the large gloomy church of a nunnery, by the voices -of the Lord’s spouses issuing from a sepulchral grate bristled with -spikes of iron. These tremulous, plaintive sounds filled me with such -sadness, and so many recollections of interesting hours departed never -to return, that I felt relieved when I found myself out of sight of the -convent, on a cheerful road thronged with passengers. - -We passed Oropeza, a picturesque, Italian-looking town, on the brow of a -mountain; dined at a venda, in the midst of a savage tract of -forest-land, infamous till within this year or two for robberies and -assassinations; and reached Talavera de la Reyna by sunset. - -More, I believe, has been said in praise of this town than it deserves. -Its appearance is far from cheerful or elegant; and the heavy -brick-fronts of the convents and churches as ill designed as executed. -The streets, however, are crowded with people, who seem to be moving -about with rather more activity than falls to the lot of Spaniards in -general. I am told the silk-manufactories at Talavera are in a -flourishing state, and have taken a good many hands out of the folds of -their mantles. - -Colmenar is perpetually leading me into errors, and causing me -disappointments. He pretends that the inhabitants of this place are -nearly as skilful as those of Pekin and Macao in the manufacturing of -lacquered wares, and that their pottery is unrivalled; but, upon -inquiry, I found the Talaverans no particular proficients in varnish, -and that they had neither a cup nor basin to produce in the least -preferable to those of other villages. - -In one art they are indefatigable, I can answer to my sorrow; that is, -singing drawling tirannas to the monotonous accompaniment of a sort of -hum-strum or hurdy-gurdy, or the devil knows best what sort of -instruments, for such as I hear at this moment under my windows are only -fit to be played in his dominions. I am quite at the mercy of these -untoward minstrels; if they cease not, I must defer sleeping to another -opportunity. Am I then come into Spain to hear hum-strums and -hurdy-gurdies? Where are the rapturous seguidillas, of which I have been -told such wonders? Do they exist, or, like the japanned wares of the -Talaverans, are they only to be found in books of travels and -geographical dictionaries? - - -Monday, December 10th. - -I beg Talavera de la Reyna a thousand pardons; it is not quite so -frightful as it appeared in the twilight of yesterday evening. Many of -the houses have a palace-like appearance, and the interior of the old -gothic cathedral, though not remarkably spacious, has an air of -magnificence; the stalls of the choir are elaborately carved, and on -each side the high altar, curtains of the richest crimson damask fall -from the roof in ample folds, and cast a ruddy glow on the pavement. - -If Talavera has nothing within its walls to be much boasted of, there -are many objects in its environs that merit praise. No sooner had we -left its dark crooked streets behind us, than we discovered a thick wood -of elms skirting an extensive lawn, beautifully green and level, from -which rises the convent of Nuestra Señora del Prayo, crowned by an -octangular cupola. This edifice is built of brick encrusted with stone -ornaments, and choked up by ranges of arcades and heavy galleries. I -have seen several structures which resembled it in the neighbourhood of -Antwerp and Brussels; but whether the Spaniards carried this clumsy -style of architecture into the Low Countries, or borrowed from thence, -is scarcely worth while to determine. - -Not far from Nuestra Señora del Prayo we crossed the Tagus, and -continued dragging through heavy sands for five tedious hours, without -perceiving a habitation, or meeting any animal, biped or quadruped, -except herds of swine, in which, I believe, consist the principal riches -of this part of the Spanish dominions. I doubt whether the royal sty of -Ithaca was half so well garnished, as many private ones in New Castile -and Estremadura. - -Having nothing to look at except a dreary plain bounded by barren, -uninteresting mountains, I was reduced to tumble over the trashy -collection of books, with which I happen in this journey to be provided; -poor fiddle-faddle Derrick’s Letters from Cork, Chester, and Tunbridge; -John Buncle, Esquire’s, life, holy rhapsodies, and peregrinations; -Shenstone’s, Mr. Whistler’s, and the good Duchess of Somerset’s -Correspondence; Bray’s tour, right worthy of an ass; Heley’s fulsome -description of the Leasowes and Hagley; Clarke’s ponderous account of -Spain; and Major Dalrymple’s dry, tiresome, and splenetic excursion. -There’s a set, equal it if you can. I hope to get a better at Madrid, -and throw my old stock into the Mançanares. - -We dined at a village called Brabo, not in the least worth mentioning, -and arrived in due tiresome course, about six in the evening, at Santa -Olaya, where my courier had procured us an admirable lodging in the -house of a veteran colonel. The principal apartment, in which I pitched -my bed, was a lofty gallery, with large folding glazed doors, gilt and -varnished, its white walls almost covered with saintly pictures and -small mirrors, stuck near the ceiling, beyond the reach of mortal sight, -as if their proprietor was afraid they would wear out by being looked -into. On low tables, to the right and left of the door, stood -glass-cases, filled with relics and artificial flowers. Stools covered -with velvet, and raised not above a foot from the floor, were stationed -all round the room. On one of these I squatted like an oriental, warming -my hands over a brasier of coals. - -The old lady of the house, followed by a train of curtseying handmaids -and snifling lapdogs, favoured me with her company the best part of the -evening. Her spouse, the colonel, being indisposed, did not make his -appearance. Whilst she was entertaining me with a most flourishing -detail of the excellent qualities and wonderful acquisitions of the -infant Don Louis, who died about two years ago at his villa in this -neighbourhood, some very grotesque figures entered the antechamber, and -tinkling their guitars, struck up a seguidilla, that in a minute or two -set all the feet in the house in motion. Amongst the dancers, two young -girls, whose jetty locks were braided with some degree of elegance, -shone forth in a fandango, beating the ground and snapping their fingers -with rapturous agility. - -This sport lasted a full hour, before they showed the least sign of -being tired; then succeeded some languorous tirannas, by no means so -delightful as I expected. I was not sorry when the ball ceased, and my -kind hostess, moving off with all her dogs and dancers, left me to sup -and sleep in tranquillity. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined - musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect - of the city.--The Calle d’Alcala.--The Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. - - -Tuesday, Dec. 11th, 1787. - -Dismal plains and still more dismal mountains; no indication as yet of -the approach to a capital; dined at Santa Cruz; thought we should have -been flayed alive by its greedy inhabitants; arrived in the dark at Val -de Carneiro; lodged in the house of a certain Don Bernardo, passionately -fond of music. The apartment allotted to me contained no less than two -harpsichords: one of them, in a fine gilt case, very pompous and sullen, -I could scarcely prevail upon the keys to move; next it stood a very -sweet-toned modest little spinet, that responded to my touch right -willingly, and as I happened to play some Brazilian ditties Don -Bernardo never heard before, he was so good as to be in raptures. - -These were becoming every minute more enthusiastic, when the arrival of -the alcayde mayor, followed by a priest or two with enormous spectacles -on their thin snipish noses, interrupted our harmonious proceedings. -This personage came expressly to pay me a visit, and to ask questions -about England and her unnatural offspring, the revolted provinces of -North America; a country which he had heard was colder and darker than -the grave, and spread all over with animals, whether biped or quadruped -he could not tell, called _koakeres_, living like beavers, in strange -huts or tabernacles of their own construction. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 12th. - -Don Bernardo showed me his cellars, in which are several casks capable -of holding thirty or forty hogsheads, and ranges of jars in the shape of -the antique amphoræ, ten feet high, and not less than six in diameter. -For the first time in my life I tasted the genuine Spanish chocolate, -spiced and cinnamoned beyond all endurance. It has put my mouth in a -flame, and I do nothing but spit and sputter. - -The weather was so damp and foggy that we could hardly see ten yards -before us: I cannot, therefore, in conscience abuse the approach to -Madrid so much, I believe, as it deserves. About one o’clock, the -vapours beginning to dissipate, a huge mass of building, and a confused -jumble of steeples, domes, and towers, started on a sudden from the -mist. The large building I soon recognized to be the new palace. It is a -good deal in the style of Caserta, but being raised on a considerable -eminence, produces a more striking effect. At its base flows the pitiful -river Mançanares, whose banks were all of a flutter with linen hanging -out to dry. - -We passed through this rag-fair, between crowds of mahogany-coloured -hags, who left off thumping their linen to stare at us, and, crossing a -broad bridge over a narrow streamlet, entered Madrid by a gateway of -very indifferent architecture. The neat pavement of the streets, the -loftiness of the houses, and the cheerful showy appearance of many of -the shops, far surpassed my expectation. - -Upon entering the Calle d’Alcala, a noble street, much wider than any in -London, I was still more surprised. Several magnificent palaces and -convents adorn it on both sides. At one extremity, you perceive the -trees and fountains of the Prado, and, at the other, the lofty domes of -a series of churches. We have got apartments at the Cruz de Malta, -which, though very indifferently furnished, have at least the advantage -of commanding this prospect. I passed half-an-hour after dinner in one -of the balconies, gazing upon the variety of equipages which were -rattling along. The street sloping gradually down, and being paved with -remarkable smoothness, they drove at a furious rate, the high fashion at -Madrid; where to hurry along at the risk of laming your mules, and -cracking their skulls, is to follow the example of his Majesty, than -whom no monarch drives with greater vehemence. - -I strolled to the Prado, and was much struck by the spaciousness of the -principal walk, the length of the avenues, and the stateliness of the -fountains. Though the evening was damp and gloomy, a great many people -were rambling about, and a long line of carriages parading. The dress of -the ladies, the cut of their servants’ liveries, the bags of the -coachmen, and the painting of the coaches, were so perfectly Parisian, -that I fancied myself on the Boulevards, and looked in vain for those -ponderous equipages, surrounded by pages and escudeiros, one reads of in -Spanish romances. A total change has taken place, and the original -national customs are almost obliterated. - -Devotion, however, is not yet banished from the Prado; at the ringing of -the Ave-Maria bell, the coaches stopped, the servants took off their -hats, the ladies crossed themselves, and the foot passengers stood -motionless, muttering their orisons. There is both opera and play -to-night, I believe, but I am in no mood to go to either. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her apartment - described.--Her passion for music.--Her señoras de honor. - - -Thursday, Dec. 13th, 1787. - -It was a heavy damp morning, and I could hardly prevail upon myself to -quit my fireside and deliver the archbishop’s most confidential -despatches to the Portuguese ambassador Don Diogo de Noronha. - -The ambassador being gone to the palace, I drove to the Duchess of -Berwick’s, my old acquaintance, with whom I passed so much of my time at -Paris eight years ago. Her dear spouse, so well known at Spa, Brussels, -Aix-la-Chapelle, and all the gaming-places of Europe, by the name, -style, and title of marquis of Jamaica, has been departed these five or -six months; and she is now mistress of the most splendid palace in -Madrid, of one of the first fortunes, and of the affairs of her only -son, the present Duke of Berwick, to whom she is guardian. - -The façade of the palace, and the spacious court before it, pleased me -extremely. It is in the best style of modern Parisian architecture, -simple and graceful. I was conducted up a majestic staircase, adorned -with corinthian columns, and through a long suite of apartments, at the -extremity of which, in a saloon hung with embroidered India satin, sat -reclined madame la duchesse, in all her accustomed nonchalance. She -seemed never to have moved from her sofa since I last had the pleasure -of seeing her, and is exactly the same good-natured, indolent being, -free from malice or uncharitableness; I wish the world was fuller of -this harmless, quiet species. - -The morning passed most rapidly away in talking over rose-coloured -times; I returned home to dine, and as soon as it was dark went back -again to madame de Berwick’s, who was waiting tea for me. I like her -apartment very much, the angles are taken off by low semicircular sofas, -and the space between them and the hangings filled up with slabs of -Granadian marble, on which are placed most beautiful porcelain vases -with mignonette and rose-trees in full bloom. The fire burnt cheerfully, -the table was drawn close to it; the duchess’s little girl, Donna -Ferdinanda, sat playing and smiling upon a dog, which she held in her -lap, and had swaddled up like an infant. - -Soon after tea, the young duke of Berwick and a French abbé, his -preceptor, came in and stayed with us the remainder of the evening. The -duke is only fourteen and some months, but he is taller than I am, and -as plump as the plumpest of partridges. His manners are French, and his -address as prematurely formed as his figure. Few, if any, fortunes in -Europe equal that which he enjoys, and of which he has expectations; -being heir to the house of Alba, seventy thousand a-year at least, and -in possession of the Veragua and Liria estates. These immense properties -are of course underlet, and wretchedly cultivated. If able exertions -were made in their management, his income might be doubled. - -Madame de Berwick has not lost her passion for music; operas and sonatas -lie scattered all over her apartment; not only singing-books were lying -on the carpet, but singers themselves; three of her musical attendants, -a page, and two pretty little señoras de honor, having cast themselves -carelessly at her feet in the true Spanish, or rather morisco, fashion, -ready to warble forth the moment she gave the signal, which was not long -delayed, and never did I hear more soothing voices. The inspiration they -gave rise to drove me to the piano-forte, where I played and sang those -airs Madame de Berwick was so fond of in the dawn of our acquaintance; -when, thanks to her cherished indolence, she had the resignation to -listen day after day, and hour after hour, to my romantic rhapsodies. -How fervid and ecstatic was I in those days; the toy of every impulse, -the willing dupe of every gay illusion. The duchess tells me, she thinks -from the tone of our conversation in the morning, that I am now a little -sobered, and may possibly get through this thorny world without losing -my wits on its briars. - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and gardens of the - Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and his numerous - train.--Farinelli’s apartments. - - -Dec. 14th, 1785. - -One of the best informed and pleasantest of Spaniards, the Chevalier de -Roxas, who had been very intimate both with Verdeil and me at Lausanne, -came in a violent hurry this morning to give us a cordial embrace. He -seems to have set his heart upon showing us about Madrid, and rendering -our stay here as lively as he could make it. Fifty schemes did he -propose in half a minute, of visiting museums, churches, and public -buildings; of goings to balls, theatres, and tertullias. - -I took alarm at this busy prospect, drew back into my shell, and began -wishing myself in the most perfect incognito; but, alas! to no purpose, -it was all in vain. - -Roxas, most eager to enter upon his office of cicerone, fidgeted to the -window, observed we had still an hour or two of daylight, and proposed -an excursion to the palace and gardens of the Buen Retiro. Upon entering -the court of the palace, which is surrounded by low buildings, with -plastered fronts, sadly battered by wind and weather, I espied some -venerable figures in caftans and turbans, leaning against a doorway. - -My sparks of orientalism instantly burst into a flame at such a sight: -“Who are those picturesque animals?” said I to our conductor. “Is it -lawful to approach them?” “As often as you please,” answered Roxas. -“They belong to the Turkish ambassador, who is lodged, with all his -train, at the Buen Retiro, in the identical apartments once occupied by -Farinelli; where he held his state levees and opera rehearsals; drilling -ministers one day, and tenors and soprani the other: if you have a mind, -we will go up-stairs and examine the whole menagerie.” - -No sooner said, no sooner done. I cleared four steps at a leap, to the -great delight of his sublime excellency’s pages and attendants, and -entered a saloon spread with the most sumptuous carpets, and perfumed -with the fragrance of the wood of aloes. In a corner of this magnificent -chamber sat the ambassador, Achmet Vassif Effendi, wrapped up in a -pelisse of the most precious sables, playing with a light cane he had in -his hand, and every now and then passing it under the noses of some -tall, handsome slaves, who were standing in a row before him. These -figures, fixed as statues, and to all appearance equally insensible, -neither moved hand nor eye. As I advanced to make my salam to the grand -seignor’s representative, who received me with a most gracious nod of -the head; his interpreter announced to what nation I belonged, and my -own individual warm partiality for the Sublime Porte. - -As soon as I had taken my seat in a ponderous fauteuil of figured -velvet, coffee was carried round in cups of most delicate china, with -gold enamelled saucers. Notwithstanding my predilection for the east and -its customs, I could hardly get this beverage down, it was so thick and -bitter; whilst I was making a few wry faces in consequence, a low -murmuring sound, like that of flutes and dulcimers, accompanied by a -sort of tabor, issued from behind a curtain which separated us from -another apartment. There was a melancholy wildness in the melody, and a -continual repetition of the same plaintive cadences, that soothed and -affected me. - -The ambassador kept poring upon my countenance, and appeared much -delighted with the effect his music seemed to produce upon it. He is a -man of considerable talent, deeply skilled in Turkish literature; a -native of Bagdad; rich, munificent, and nobly born, being descended from -the house of Barmek; gracious in his address, smooth and plausible in -his elocution; but not without something like a spark of despotism in a -corner of his eye. Now and then I fancied that the recollection of -having recommended the bow-string, and certain doubts whether he might -not one day or other be complimented with it in his turn, passed across -his venerable and interesting physiognomy. - -My eager questions about Bagdad, the tomb of Zobeida, the vestiges of -the Dhar al Khalifat, or palace of the Abbassides, seemed to excite a -thousand remembrances which gave him pleasure; and when I added a few -quotations from some of his favourite authors, particularly Mesihi, he -became so flowingly communicative, that a shrewd dapper Greek, called -Timoni, who acted as his most confidential interpreter, could hardly -keep pace with him. - -Had not the hour of prayer arrived, our conversation might have lasted -till midnight. Rising up with much stateliness, he extended his arms to -bid me a good evening, and was assisted along by two good-looking -Georgian pages, to an adjoining chamber, where his secretaries, -dragoman, and attendants, were all assembled to perform their devotions, -each on his little carpet, as if in a mosque; and it was not unedifying -to witness the solemnity and abstractedness with which these devotions -were performed. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The - Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The Theatre.--A highly - popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their glory. - - -Sunday, Dec. 16th, 1787. - -The kind, indefatigable Roxas came to conduct us to the Museum and -Academy of Arts. It consists of seven or eight apartments, with cases -all around them, in a plain, good style; the objects clearly arranged, -and exposed to view in a very intelligible manner. There is a vast -collection of minerals, corals, madrepores, and stalactites, from all -the grottoes in the universe; and curious specimens of virgin-gold and -silver. Amongst the latter, a lump weighing seventy pounds, which was -shivered off an enormous mass by a master miner, who, after dining on -it, with twelve or thirteen persons, hacked it to pieces, and -distributed the fragments amongst his guests. - -What pleased me most was a collection of Peruvian vases; a polished -stone, which served the Incas for a mirror; and a linen mantle, which -formerly adorned their copper-coloured shoulders, as finely woven as a -shawl, and flowered in very nearly a similar manner, the colours as -fresh and vivid as if new. - -In the apartments of the academy is a most valuable collection of casts -after the serene and graceful antique, and several fierce, obtrusive -daubings by modern Spanish artists. - -I found our acute, intelligent chargé-d’affaires’[26] card lying on my -table when I got home, and a great many more, of equal whiteness; such a -sight chills me like a fall of snow, for I think of the cold idleness of -going about day after day dropping little bits of pasteboard in return. -Verdeil and I dined tête-à-tête, planning schemes how to escape formal -fussifications. No easy matter, I suspect, if I may judge from -appearances. - -Our repast and our council over, we hurried to the Prado, where a -brilliant string of equipages was moving along in two files. In the -middle paraded the state coaches of the royal family, containing their -own precious selves, and their wonted accompaniment of bedchamber lords -and ladies, duly bedizened. It was a gay spectacle; the music of the -Swiss guards playing, and the evening sun shining bright on their showy -uniforms. The botanic garden is separated from the walk by magnificent -railings and pilasters, placed at regular distances, crowned with vases -of aloes and yuccas. The verdure and fountains of this vast enclosure, -terminated by a range of columned conservatories, with an entrance of -very majestic architecture, has a delightful and striking effect. - -From the Prado I drove to the Portuguese ambassador’s, who is laid up -with a sore toe. Three diplomatic animals, two males and one female, -were nursing and comforting him. He is most supremely dull, and so are -his comforters. One of them in particular, who shall be nameless, quite -asinine. - -The little sympathy I feel for creatures of this genus, made me shorten -my visit as much as I decently could, and return home to take up Roxas, -who was waiting to accompany us to the Spanish theatre. They were acting -the Barber of Seville, with Paesiello’s music, and singing better than -at the opera. The entertainment ended with a sort of intermez, very -characteristic of Spanish manners in low life; in which were introduced -seguidillas. One of the dancers, a young fellow, smartly dressed as a -maxo, so enraptured the audience, that they made him repeat his dance -four times over; a French dancing-master would have absolutely shuddered -at the manner in which he turned in his knees. The women sit by -themselves in a gallery as dingy as limbo, wrapped up in their white -mantillas, and looking like spectres. I never heard anything like the -vociferation with which the pit called out for the seguidillas, nor the -frantic, deafening applause they bestowed on their favourite dancer. - -The play ended at eight, and we came back to tea by our fireside. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal - convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence - of the choir.--Charles the Fifth’s organ.--Crucifix by - Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Luca Giordano.--Extent and - intricacy of the stupendous edifice. - - -Thursday, Dec. 19th, 1787. - -I hate being roused out of bed by candlelight on a sharp wintry morning; -but as I had fixed to-day for visiting the Escurial, and had stationed -three relays on the road, in order to perform the journey expeditiously, -I thought myself obliged to carry my plan into execution. - -The weather was cold and threatening, the sky red and deeply coloured. -Roxas was to be of our party, so we drove to his brother, the Marquis of -Villanueva’s, to take him up. He is one of the best-natured and most -friendly of human beings, and I would not have gone without him upon -any account; though in general I abhor turning and twisting about a town -in search of any body, let its soul be never so transcendent. - -It was past eight before we issued out of the gates of Madrid, and -rattled along an avenue on the banks of the Mançanares full gallop, -which brought us to the Casa del Campo, one of the king’s palaces, -wrapped up in groves and thickets. We continued a mile or two by the -wall of this enclosure, and leaving La Sarsuela, another royal villa, -surrounded by shrubby hillocks, on the right, traversed three or four -leagues of a wild, naked country, and, after ascending several -considerable eminences, the sun broke out, the clouds partially rolled -away, and we discovered the white buildings of this far-famed monastery, -with its dome and towers detaching themselves from the bold back-ground -of a lofty, irregular mountain. - -We were now about a league off: the country wore a better aspect than -near Madrid. To the right and left of the road, which is of a noble -width, and perfectly well made, lie extensive parks of greensward, -scattered over with fragments of rock and stumps of oak and ash-trees. -Numerous herds of deer were standing stock-still, quietly lifting up -their innocent noses, and looking us full in the face with their -beautiful eyes, secure of remaining unmolested, for the King never -permits a gun to be discharged in these enclosures. - -The Escurial, though overhung by melancholy mountains, is placed itself -on a very considerable eminence, up which we were full half an hour -toiling, the late rains having washed this part of the road into utter -confusion. There is something most severely impressive in the façade of -this regal convent, which, like the palace of Persepolis, is -overshadowed by the adjoining mountain; nor did I pass through a vaulted -cloister into the court before the church, solid as if hewn out of a -rock, without experiencing a sort of shudder, to which no doubt the -vivid recollection of the black and blood-stained days of our gloomy -queen Mary’s husband not slightly contributed. The sun being again -overcast, the porches of the church, surmounted by grim statues, -appeared so dark and cavern-like, that I thought myself about to enter a -subterraneous temple set apart for the service of some mysterious and -terrible religion. And when I saw the high altar, in all its pomp of -jasper-steps, ranks of columns one above the other, and paintings -filling up every interstice, full before me, I felt completely awed. - -The sides of the recess, in which this imposing pile is placed, are -formed by lofty chapels, almost entirely occupied by catafalques of gilt -enamelled bronze. Here, with their crowns and sceptres humbly prostrate -at their feet, bare-headed and unhelmed, kneel the figures, large as -life, of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and his imperious son, the -second Philip, accompanied by those of their unhappy consorts and -ill-fated children. My sensations of dread and dreariness were not -diminished upon finding myself alone in such company; for Roxas had left -me to deliver some letters to his right reverence the prior, which were -to open to us all the arcana of this terrific edifice, at once a temple, -a palace, a convent, and a tomb. - -Presently my amiable friend returned, and with him a tall old monk, with -an ash-coloured forbidding countenance, and staring eyes, the expression -of which was the farthest removed possible from anything like -cordiality. This was the mystagogue of the place--the prior _in propria -persona_, the representative of St. Jerome, as far as this monastery and -its domain was concerned, and a disciplinarian of celebrated rigidness. -He began examining me from head to foot, and, after what I thought -rather a strange scrutiny, asked me in broad Spanish what I wished -particularly to see. Then turning to Roxas, said loud enough for me to -hear him, “He is very young; does he understand what I say to him? But, -as I am peremptorily commanded to show him about, I suppose I must -comply, though I am quite unused to the office of explaining our -curiosities. However, if it must be, it must; so let us begin, and not -dally. I have no time to spare, you well know, and have quite enough to -do in the choir and the convent.” - -After this not very gracious exordium, we set forth on our tour. First -we visited some apartments with vaulted roofs, painted in arabesque, in -the finest style of the sixteenth century; and then a vast hall, which -had been used for the celebration of mass, whilst the great church was -building, where I saw the Perla in all its purity, the most -delicately-finished work of Raphael, the Pesce, with its divine angel, -graceful infant; and devout young Tobit, breathing the very soul of -pious, unaffected simplicity. My attention was next attracted by that -most profoundly pathetic of pictures, Jacob weeping over the bloody -garment of his son; the loftiest proof in existence of the extraordinary -powers of Velasquez in the noblest work of art. - -These three pictures so absorbed my admiration, that I had little left -for a host of glorious performances by Titian and the highest masters, -which cover the plain, massive walls of these conventual rooms with a -paradise of glowing colours; so I passed along almost as rapidly as my -grumbling cicerone could desire, and followed him up several flights of -stairs, and through many and many an arched passage and vestibule, all -of the sternest doric, into the choir, which is placed over the grand -western entrance, right opposite, at the distance of more than two -hundred feet, to the high altar and its solemn accompaniments. No regal -chamber I ever beheld can be compared, in point of sober harmonious -majesty, to this apartment, which looks more as if it belonged to a -palace than to a church. The series of stalls, designed in a severer -taste than was common in the sixteenth century, are carved out of the -most precious woods the Indies could furnish. At the extremity of this -striking perspective of onyx-coloured seats, columns, and canopies, -appears suspended upon a black velvet pall that revered image of the -crucified Saviour, formed of the purest ivory, which Cellini seems to -have sculptured in moments of devout rapture and inspiration. It is by -far his finest work; his Perseus, at Florence, is tame and laboured in -comparison. - -In a long narrow corridor which runs behind the stalls, panelled all -over like an inlaid cabinet, I was shown a beautiful little organ, in a -richly chased silver case, which accompanied Charles the Fifth in his -African expedition, and must often have gently beguiled the cares of -empire, for he played on it, tradition says, almost every evening. That -it is worth playing upon even now I can safely vouch, for I never -touched any instrument with a tone of more delicious sweetness; and -touch it I did, though my austere conductor, the sour-visaged prior, -looked doubly forbidding on the occasion. - -The stalls I have just mentioned are much less ornamented than those I -have seen in Pavia, and many other monasteries; the ceiling of this -noblest of choirs, displays the utmost exuberance of decoration--the -richest and most gorgeous of spectacles, the heavens and all the powers -therein. Imagination can scarcely conceive the pomp and prodigality of -pencil with which Luca Giordano has treated this subject, and filled -every corner of the vast space it covers with well-rounded forms, that -seem actually starting from the glowing clouds with which they are -environed. - -“Is not this fine?” said the monk; “you can have nothing like it in your -country. And now be pleased to move forward, for the day is wasting, and -you will have little time left to examine our inestimable relics, and -the jewelled shrines in which they are deposited.” - -We went down from the choir, I can scarcely tell whither, such is the -extent and intricacy of this stupendous edifice. We passed, I believe, -through some of the lateral chapels at the great church, into several -quadrangles, one in particular, with a fountain under a cupola in the -centre, surrounded by doric arcades, equal in justness of proportion and -architectural terseness to Palladio’s court in the convent of S. Giorgio -Maggiore. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from the - Archangel Gabriel’s wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy - cloisters.--Sepulchral cave.--River of death.--The regal - sarcophagi. - - -My lord the prior, not favouring a prolonged survey, I reluctantly left -this beautiful court, and was led into a low gallery, roofed and -wainscoted with cedar, lined on both sides by ranges of small doors of -different-coloured Brazil-wood, looking in appearance, at least, as -solid as marble. Four sacristans, and as many lay-brothers, with large -lighted flambeaux of yellow wax in their hands, and who, by the by, -never quitted us more the remainder of our peregrinations, stood silent -as death, ready to unlock those mysterious entrances. - -The first they opened exhibited a buffet, or _credence_, three stories -high, set out with many a row of grinning skulls, looking as pretty as -gold and diamonds could make them; the second, every possible and -impossible variety of odds and ends, culled from the carcasses of -martyrs; the third, enormous ebony presses, the secrets of which I -begged for pity’s sake might not be intruded upon for my recreation, as -I began to be heartily wearied of sightseeing; but when my conductors -opened the fourth mysterious door, I absolutely shrank back, almost -sickened by a perfume of musk and ambergris. - -A spacious vault was now disclosed to me--one noble arch, richly -panelled: had the pavement of this strange-looking chamber been strewn -with saffron, I should have thought myself transported to the enchanted -courser’s forbidden stable we read of in the tale of the Three -Calenders. - -The prior, who is not easily pleased, seemed to have suspicions that the -seriousness of my demeanour was not entirely orthodox; I overheard him -saying to Roxas, “Shall I show him the Angel’s feather? you know we do -not display this our most-valued, incomparable relic to everybody, nor -unless upon special occasions.”--“The occasion is sufficiently -special,” answered my partial friend; “the letters I brought to you are -your warrant, and I beseech your reverence to let us look at this gift -of heaven, which I am extremely anxious myself to adore and venerate.” - -Forth stalked the prior, and drawing out from a remarkably large cabinet -an equally capacious sliding shelf--(the source, I conjecture, of the -potent odour I complained of)--displayed lying stretched out upon a -quilted silken mattress, the most glorious specimen of plumage ever -beheld in terrestrial regions--a feather from the wing of the Archangel -Gabriel, full three feet long, and of a blushing hue more soft and -delicate than that of the loveliest rose. I longed to ask at what -precise moment this treasure beyond price had been dropped--whether from -the air--on the open ground, or within the walls of the humble tenement -at Nazareth; but I repressed all questions of an indiscreet -tendency--the why and wherefore, the when and how, for what and to whom -such a palpable manifestation of archangelic beauty and wingedness had -been vouchsafed. - -We all knelt in silence, and when we rose up after the holy feather had -been again deposited in its perfumed lurking-place, I fancied the prior -looked doubly suspicious, and uttered a sort of _humph_ very doggedly; -nor did his ill-humour evaporate upon my desiring to be conducted to the -library. “It is too late for you to see the precious books and -miniatures by daylight,” replied the crusty old monk, “and you would not -surely have me run the risk of dropping wax upon them. No, no, another -time, another time, when you come earlier. For the present, let us visit -the tomb of the catholic kings; there, our flambeaux will be of service -without doing injury.” - -He led the way through a labyrinth of cloisters, gloomy as the grave; -till ordering a grated door to be thrown open, the light of our -flambeaux fell upon a flight of most beautiful marble steps, polished as -a mirror, leading down between walls of the rarest jaspers to a portal -of no great size, but enriched with balusters of rich bronze, sculptured -architraves, and tablets of inscriptions, in a style of the greatest -magnificence. - -As I descended the steps, a gurgling sound, like that of a rivulet, -caught my ear. “What means this?” said I. “It means,” answered the monk, -“that the sepulchral cave on the left of the stairs, where repose the -bodies of many of our queens and infantas, is properly ventilated, -running water being excellent for that purpose.” I went on, not lulled -by these rippling murmurs, but chilled when I reflected through what -precincts flows this river of death. - -Arrived at the bottom of the stairs, we passed through the portal just -mentioned, and entered a circular saloon, not more than five-and-thirty -feet in diameter, characterized by extreme elegance, not stern -solemnity. The regal sarcophagi, rich in golden ornaments, ranged one -above the other, forming panels of the most decorative kind; the lustre -of exquisitely sculptured bronze, the pavement of mottled alabaster; in -short, this graceful dome, covered with scrolls of the most delicate -foliage, appeared to the eye of my imagination more like a subterranean -boudoir, prepared by some gallant young magician for the reception of an -enchanted and enchanting princess, than a temple consecrated to the -king of terrors. - -My conductor’s visage growing longer and longer every minute, and -looking pretty nearly as grim as that of the last-mentioned sovereign, I -whispered Roxas it was full time to take our leave; which we did -immediately after my intimating that express desire, to the no small -satisfaction, I am perfectly convinced, of my lord the prior. - -Cold and hungry, for we had not been offered a morsel of refreshment, we -repaired to a warm opulent-looking habitation belonging to one of my -kind companion’s most particular friends, a much favoured attendant of -his catholic Majesty’s; here we were received with open arms and -generous hospitality; and it grew pitch dark before we quitted this -comfortable shelter from the piercing winds, which blow almost -perpetually over the Escurial, and returned to Madrid. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.--Curious assemblage in his - long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern - dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini in - despair.--Solecisms in dancing. - - -The mules galloped back at so rapid a rate, and their conductors bawled -and screamed so lustily to encourage their exertions, that half my -recollections of the Escurial were whirled out of my head before I -reached my old quarters at the Cruz de Malta. I had quite forgotten, -amongst other things, that I had actually accepted a most pressing -invitation to a concert and ball at Pacheco’s this very evening. - -Pacheco is an old Portuguese, immensely rich, and who had been immensely -favoured in the days of his youth by his august countrywoman, Queen -Barbara, the consort of Ferdinand the sixth, and the patroness of -Farinelli. He is uncle to madame Arriaga, her most Faithful Majesty’s -most faithful and favourite attendant, and a person of such worship, -that courtiers, ministers, and prelates, are too happy to congregate at -his house, whenever he takes it into his head to allow them an -opportunity. - -Though I had been half petrified by my cold ramble through the Escurial, -under the prior’s still more chilling auspices, I had quite life enough -left to obey Pacheco’s summons with alacrity; and as I expected to dance -a great deal, I put on my dancing-dress, that of a maxo, with ties and -tags, and trimmings and buttons, redecilla and all. - -I must confess, however, that I felt rather abashed and disappointed, -upon entering Pacheco’s long pompous gallery, to find myself in the -midst of diplomatic and ministerial personages, assembled in stiff gala -to do honour to Achmet Vassif, whose musicians were seated on the carpet -howling forth a deplorable ditty, composed, as the Armenian interpreter -informed me, by one of the most impassioned and lovesick dilettantes of -the east; no strain I ever heard was half so lugubrious, not even that -of a dog baying the moon, or owls making their complaints to it. - -I could not help telling the ambassador, without the smallest -circumlocution, that his tabor and pipe people I heard the other day -accompanying a dulcimer, were far more worthy of praise than his vocal -attendants; but this truth, like most others, did not exactly please; -and I fear my reputation for musical connoisseurship was completely -forfeited in his excellency’s estimation, for he looked a little glum -upon the occasion. What surprised me most, after all, was the patience -with which the whole assembly listened for full three-quarters of an -hour to these languorous wailings. - -Amongst the audience, none bore the severe infliction with a greater -degree of evangelical resignation than the grand inquisitor and the -archbishop of Toledo; both these prelates have not only the look, but -the character of beneficence, which promises a truce to the faggot and -pitch-barrel; the expression of the archbishop’s countenance in -particular is most engagingly mild and pleasing. He came up to me -without the least reserve or formality, and taking me by the hand, said -with a cheerful smile, “I see you are equipped for a dance, and have -adopted our fashion; we all long to judge whether an Englishman can -enter (as I hear you can) into the extravagant spirit of our national -dances. I will speak to Pacheco, and desire him to form a diversion in -your favour, by calling off these doleful minstrels to the rinfresco -prepared for them.” And so he did, and there was an end of the concert, -to my infinite joy, and the no less delight of the villa mayors and -sabbatinis, with whom, without a moment’s farther delay, I sprang forth -in a bolero. - -Down came all the Spanish musicians from their formal orchestra, too -happy to escape its trammels; away went the foreign regulars, taking -vehement pinches of snuff, with the most unequivocal expressions of -anger and indignation. A circle was soon formed, a host of guitars put -in immediate requisition, and never did I hear such wild, extravagant, -passionate modulations. - -Boccharini, who led and presided over the Duchess of Ossuna’s concerts, -and who had been lent to Pacheco as a special favour, witnessed these -most original deviations from all established musical rule with the -utmost contempt and dismay. He said to me in a loud whisper, “If _you_ -dance and _they_ play in this ridiculous manner, I shall never be able -to introduce a decent style into our musical world here, which I -flattered myself I was on the very point of doing. What possesses you? -Is it the devil? Who could suppose that a reasonable being, an -Englishman of all others, would have encouraged these inveterate -barbarians in such absurdities. There’s a chromatic scream! there’s a -passage! We have heard of robbing time; this is murdering it. What! -again! Why, this is worse than a convulsive hiccup, or the last rattle -in the throat of a dying malefactor. Give me the Turkish howlings in -preference; they are not so obtrusive and impudent.” - -So saying, he moved off with a semi-seria stride, and we danced on with -redoubled delight and joy. The quicker we moved, the more intrepidly we -stamped with our feet, the more sonorously we snapped our fingers, the -better reconciled the sublime Effendi appeared to be with me. He forgot -my critiques upon his vocal performers: he rose up from his snug -cushion, and nodded his turbaned head, and expressed his delight, not -only by word and gesture, but in a most comfortable orientalish sort of -chuckling. As to the rest of the company, the Spanish part at least, -they were so much animated, that not less than twenty voices accompanied -the bolero with its appropriate words in full chorus, and with a glow of -enthusiasm that inspired my lovely partners and myself with such energy, -that we outdid all our former outdancings. - -“Is it possible,” exclaimed an old fandango-fancier of great -notoriety--“is it possible, that a son of the cold north can have learnt -all our rapturous flings and stampings?”--“The French never _could_, or -rather never _would_,” observed a Monsieur Gaudin, one of the Duke de la -V----’s secretaries, who was standing by perfectly astounded. - -Who persecute like renegades? who are so virulent against their former -sect as fresh converts to another? This was partly my case; though my -dancing and musical education had been strictly orthodox, according to -the precepts of Mozart and Sacchini, of Vestris and Gardel, I declared -loudly there was no music but Spanish, no dancing but Spanish, no -salvation in either art out of the Spanish pale, and that, compared with -such rapturous melodies, such inspired movements, the rest of Europe -afforded only examples of dullness and insipidity. I would not allow my -former instructors a spark of merit; and at the very moment I was -committing solecisms in good dancing at every step, and stamping and -piaffing like a courser but half-broken in at a manège, I felt and -looked as firmly persuaded of the truth of my impudent assertions as the -greatest bigot of his nonsense in some untried new-fangled superstition. -Success, founded or unfounded, is everything in this world. We too well -know the sad fate of merit. I am more than apt to conjecture we were but -very slightly entitled to any applause; yet the transports we called -forth were as fervid as those the famous Le Pique excited at Naples in -the zenith of his popularity. - -The British and American ministers, who were standing by the whole time, -enjoyed this amusing proof of Spanish fanaticism, in its profane mood, -with all the zest of intelligent and shrewd observers. Pisani, the -Venetian ambassador, inclined decidedly to the southern side of the -question. He was bound, heart and soul, by a variety of silken ties to -the Spanish interest, and had almost forgotten the fascinations of -Venice in those of Andalusia. Consequently I had his vote in my favour. -Not so that of the Duchess of Ossuna, Boccharini’s patroness. She said -to me in the plainest language, “You are making the greatest fool of -yourself I ever beheld; and as to those riotous self-taught hoydens, -your partners, I tell you what, they are scarcely worthy to figure in -the third rank at a second-rate theatre. Come along with me, and I will -present you to my mother, the Countess of Benevente, who gives a very -different sort of education to the charming young women she admits to -her court.” - -I had heard of this court and its delectabilities, and at the same time -been informed that its throne was a faro-table, to which the initiated -were imperatively expected to become tributaries. The sovereign, old -Benevente, is the most determined hag of her rout-giving, card-playing -species in Europe, of the highest birth, the highest consequence, and -the principal disposer, by long habit and old cortejo-ship, of Florida -Blanca’s good graces. - -Notwithstanding the severe regulations against gambling societies, most -severely enforced at Madrid; notwithstanding the prime minister’s -morality, and the still higher morality of his royal master, this great -lady’s aberrations of every kind are most complaisantly winked at; she -is allowed not only to set up under her own princely roof a refuge for -the desolate, in the most delicate style of Spanish refinement, for the -kind purpose of enchanting all persons sufficiently favoured by fortune -to merit admission to her parties, by every blandishment and -languishment the most seductive eyes of Seville and Cadiz she had -collected together could throw around them; but so sure as the hour of -midnight arrived, and Florida Blanca (who never fails paying his devoirs -to the countess every evening) had made his retiring bow, so sure a -confidential party of illuminati, of unsleeping partners in the -gambling-line, made their appearance, heavily laden with well-stored -caskets. - -Now came the tug of play, and hope, and fear in all their thrilling and -throbbing alternations; but, to say truth, I was so completely jaded and -worn-out that I partook of neither, and was too happy, after losing -almost unconsciously a few dobras, to be allowed to retire; old -Benevente calling out to me, with the croak of a vulture scenting its -prey from afar, _Cavallero Inglez, a mañana a la misma hora_. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, - Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King’s sleeping - apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of the - Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don Gabriel and the - Infanta.--Her Royal Highness’s affecting recollections of - home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition of national manners - there. - - -Monday, 24th Dec. 1787. - -I shall have the megrims for want of exercise, like my friend Achmet -Vassif, if I don’t alter my way of life. This morning I only took a -listless saunter in the Prado, and returned early to dinner, with a very -slight provision of fresh air in my lungs. Roxas was with me, hurrying -me out of all appetite that I might see the palace by daylight; and so -to the palace we went, and it was luckily a bright ruddy afternoon, the -sun gilding a grand confusion of mountainous clouds, and chequering the -wild extent of country between Madrid and the Escurial with powerful -effects of light and shade. - -I cannot praise the front of the palace very warmly. In the centre of -the edifice starts up a whimsical sort of turret, with gilt bells, the -vilest ornament that could possibly have been imagined. The interior -court is of pure and classic architecture, and the great staircase so -spacious and well-contrived that you arrive almost imperceptibly at the -portal of the guard-chamber. Every door-case and window recess of this -magnificent edifice gleams with the richest polished marbles: the -immense and fortress-like thickness of the walls, and double panes of -the strongest glass, exclude the keen blasts which range almost -uninterrupted over the wide plains of Castile, and preserve an admirable -temperature throughout the whole extent of these royal rooms, the -grandeur, and at the same time comfort, of which cannot possibly be -exceeded. - -The king, the prince of Asturias, and the chief part of their -attendants, were all absent hunting in the park of the Escurial; but the -reposteros, or curtain-drawers of the palace, having received particular -orders for my admittance, I enjoyed the entire liberty of wandering -about unrestrained and unmolested. Roxas having left me to join a gay -party of the royal body-guard in Masserano’s apartments, I remained in -total solitude, surrounded by the pure unsullied works of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters, fresh as the flowers of a -parterre in early morning, and many of them as beautiful in point of -hues. - -Not a door being closed, I penetrated through the chamber of the throne -even into the old king’s sleeping-apartment, which, unlike the dormitory -of most of his subjects, is remarkable for extreme neatness. A book of -pious orisons, with engravings by Spanish artists, and containing, -amongst other prayers in different languages, one adapted to the -exclusive use of majesty, _Regi solo proprius_, was lying on his -praying-desk; and at the head of the richly-canopied, but uncurtained -bed, I noticed with much delight an enamelled tablet by Mengs, -representing the infant Saviour appearing to Saint Anthony of Padua. - -In this room, as in all the others I passed through, without any -exception, stood cages of gilded wire, of different forms and sizes, -and in every cage a curious exotic bird, in full song, each trying to -out-sing his neighbour. Mingled with these warblings was heard at -certain intervals the low chime of musical clocks, stealing upon the ear -like the tones of harmonic glasses. No other sound broke in any degree -the general stillness, except, indeed, the almost inaudible footsteps of -several aged domestics, in court-dresses of the cut and fashion -prevalent in the days of the king’s mother, Elizabeth Farnese, gliding -along quietly and cautiously to open the cages, and offer their inmates -such dainties as highly-educated birds are taught to relish. Much -fluttering and cowering down ensued in consequence of these attentions, -and much rubbing of bills and scratching of poles on my part, as well as -on that of the smiling old gentlemen. - -As soon as the ceremony of pampering these feathered favourites had been -most affectionately performed, I availed myself of the light reflected -from a clear sun-set to examine the pictures, chiefly of a religious -cast, with which these stately apartments are tapestried; particularly -the Madonna del Spasimo, that vivid representation of the blessed -Virgin’s maternal agony, when her divine son, fainting under the -burthen of the cross, approached to ascend the mount of torture, and -complete the awful mystery of redemption. Raphael never attained in any -other of his works such solemn depth of colour, such majesty of -character, as in this triumph of his art. “Never was sorrow like unto -the sorrow” he has depicted in the Virgin’s countenance and attitude; -never was the expression of a sublime and God-like calm in the midst of -acute suffering conveyed more closely home to the human heart than in -the face of Christ. - -I stood fixed in the contemplation of this holy vision--for such I -almost fancied it to be--till the approaching shadows of night had -overspread every recess of these vast apartments: still I kept intensely -gazing upon the picture. I knew it was time to retire,--still I gazed -on. I was aware that Roxas had been long expecting me in Masserano’s -apartments,--still I could not snatch myself away; the Virgin mother -with her outstretched arms still haunted me. The song of the birds had -ceased, as well as the soft diapason of the self-playing organs;--all -was hushed, all tranquil. I departed at length with the languid -unwillingness of an enthusiast exhausted by the intensity of his -feelings and loth to arouse himself from the bosom of grateful -illusions. - -Just as I reached the portal of the great stairs, whom should I meet but -Noronha advancing towards me with a hurried step. “Where are you going -so fast?” said he to me, “and where have you been staying so long? I -have been sending repeatedly after you to no purpose; you must come with -me immediately to the Infanta and Don Gabriel, they want to ask you a -thousand questions about the Ajuda: the letters you brought them from -Marialva, and the archbishop in particular, have, I suppose, inspired -that wish; and as royal wishes, you know, cannot be too speedily -gratified, you must kiss their hands this very evening. I am to be your -introductor.”--“What!” said I, “in this unceremonious dress?”--“Yes,” -said the ambassador, “I have heard that you are not a pattern of -correctness in these matters.” I wished to have been one in this -instance. At this particular moment I was in no trim exteriorly or -interiorly for courtly introductions. I thought of nothing but birds and -pictures, and had much rather have been presented to a cockatoo than to -the greatest monarch in Christendom. - -However, I put on the best face I was able, and we proceeded together -very placidly to that part of the palace assigned to Don Gabriel and his -blooming bride. The doors of a coved ante-chamber flew open, and after -passing through an enfilade of saloons peopled with ladies-in-waiting -and pages, (some mere children,) we entered a lofty chamber hung with -white satin, formed into compartments by a rich embroidery of gold and -colours, and illuminated by a lustre of rock crystal. - -At the farther extremity of the apartment, stood the Infant Don Gabriel, -leaning against a table covered with velvet, on which I observed a case -of large golden antique medals he was in the very act of contemplating: -the Infanta was seated near. She rose up most graciously to hold out a -beautiful hand, which I kissed with unfeigned fervour: her countenance -is most prepossessing; the same florid complexion, handsome features, -and open exhilarating smile which distinguishes her brother the Prince -of Brazil. - -“Ah,” said her royal highness with great earnestness, “you have then -lately seen my dear mother, and walked perhaps in the little garden I -was so fond of; did you notice the fine flowers that grow there? -particularly the blue carnation; we have not such flowers at Madrid; -this climate is not like that of Portugal, nor are our views so -pleasant; I miss the azure Tagus, and your ships continually sailing up -it; but when you write to your friend Marialva and the archbishop, tell -them, I possess what no other prospect upon earth can equal, the smiles -of an adored husband.” - -The Infant now approached towards me with a look of courteous benignity -that reminded me strongly of the Bourbons, nor could I trace in his -frank kindly manner the least leaven of Austrian hauteur or Spanish -starchness. After inquiring somewhat facetiously how the Duke d’Alafoens -and the Portuguese academicians proceeded on their road to the temple of -fame, he asked me whether our universities continued to be the favoured -abode of classical attainments, and if the books they printed were as -correct and as handsome now as in the days of the Stuarts; adding that -his private collection contained some copies which had formerly -belonged to the celebrated Count of Oxford. This was far too good an -opportunity of putting in a word to the praise and glory of his own -famous translation of Sallust, to be neglected; so I expressed -everything he could have wished to hear upon the subject. - -“You are very good,” observed his royal highness; “but to tell you the -truth, it was hard work for me. I began it, and so I went on, and lost -many a day’s wholesome exercise in our parks and forests: however, such -as it is, I performed my task without any assistance, though you may -perhaps have heard the contrary.” - -It was now Noronha’s turn to begin complimenting, which he did with all -the high court mellifluence of an accredited family ambassador: whether, -indeed, the Infant received as gospel all the fine things that were said -to him I won’t answer, but he looked even kinder and more gracious than -at our first entrance. The Infanta recurred again and again to the -subject of the Ajuda, and appeared so visibly affected that she awakened -all my sympathies; for I, too, had left those behind me on the banks of -the Tagus for whom I felt a fond and indelible regard. As we were -making our retiring bows, I saw tears gathering in her eyes, whilst she -kept gracefully waving her hand to bid us a happy night. - -The impressions I received from this interview were not of a nature to -allow my enjoying with much vivaciousness the next scene to which I was -transported--the head-quarters of Masserano, whom I found in unusually -high spirits surrounded by a train of gay young officers, rapping out -the rankest Castilian oaths, quaffing their flowing cups of champagne -and val de peñas, and playing off upon each other, not exactly the most -decorous specimens of practical wit. - -Roxas looked rather abashed at so unrefined an exhibition of national -manners: Noronha had taken good care to keep aloof, and I regretted not -having followed his example. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with him.--History of - a Ghost-seer. - - -It is not at every corner of life that we stumble upon an intrinsically -singular character: to-day however, at Noronha’s, I fell in with a Saxon -count,[27] who justly answers to that description. This man is not only -thoroughly imbued with the theoretical mysticism of the German school, -but has most firmly persuaded himself, and hundreds besides, that he -holds converse with the souls of the departed. Though most impressive -and even extravagant upon this subject, when started, he proves himself -a man of singular judgment upon most others, is a good geometrician, an -able chymist, a mineralogist of no ordinary proficiency, and has made -discoveries in the art of smelting metals, which have been turned -already to useful purpose. Yet nothing can beat out of this cool -reflective head, that magical operations may be performed to evident -effect, and the devil most positively evocated. - -I thought, at first sight, there was a something uncouth and ghostly in -his appearance, that promised strange communications; he has a careworn -look, a countenance often convulsed with apparently painful twitches, -and a lofty skull, set off with bristling hair, powdered as white as -Caucasus. - -Notwithstanding I by no means courted his acquaintance, he was resolved -to make up to me, and dissipate by the smoothest address he could -assume, any prejudices his uncommon cast of features might have -inspired. Drawing his chair close to mine, whilst Noronha and his party -were busily engaged at voltarete, he tried to allure my attention by -throwing out hints of the wonders within reach of a person born under -the smile of certain constellations: that I was the person he meant to -insinuate, I have little doubt. Having heard that fortune had conferred -upon me some few of her golden gifts, he thought, perhaps, that I might -be _fused_ to advantage, like any other lump of the precious metals. Be -his motives what they may, he certainly took as many pains to wind -himself into my good opinion as if I had actually been the prime -favourite of a planet, or a distant cousin by some diabolical -intermarriage, in the style of one of the Plantagenet matches, of old -Beelzebub himself. - -After a good deal of conversation upon different subjects, chiefly of a -sombrous nature, happening to ask him if he had known Schröffer, the -most renowned ghost-seer in all Germany,--“Intimately well,” was his -reply; “a bold young man, not so free, alas! from sensual taint as the -awful career he had engaged in demanded,--he rushed upon danger -unprepared, at an unhallowed moment--his fate was terrible. I passed a -week with him not six months before he disappeared in the frightful -manner you have heard of; it was a week of mental toil and suffering, of -fasts and privations of various natures, and of sights sufficiently -appalling to drive back the whole current of the blood from the heart. -It was at this period that, returning one dark and stormy night from -trying experiments upon living animals, more excruciating than any the -keenest anatomist ever perpetrated, I found lying upon my chair, coiled -up in a circle like the symbol of eternity, an enormous snake of a -deadly lead colour; it neither hissed nor moved for several minutes: -during this pause, whilst I remained aghast looking full upon it, a -voice more like the whisper of trees than any sound of human utterance, -articulated certain words, which I have retained, and used to powerful -effect in moments of peril and extreme urgency.” - -I shall not easily forget the strange inquisitive look he gave me whilst -making this still stranger communication; he saw my curiosity was -excited, and flattered himself he had made upon me the impression he -meditated; but when I asked, with the tone of careless levity, what -became of the snake on the cushion, after the voice had ceased, he shook -his white locks somewhat angrily, and croaked forth with a formidable -German accent, “Ask no more--ask no more--you are not in a disposition -at present sufficiently pure and serious to comprehend what I _might_ -disclose. Ask no more.”--For this time at least I most implicitly obeyed -him. - -Promising to call upon me and continue our conversation any day or hour -I might choose to appoint, he glided off so imperceptibly, that had I -been a little more persuaded of the possibility of supernatural -occurrences, I might have believed he had actually vanished. “A good -riddance,” said Noronha; “I don’t half like that man, nor can I make out -why Florida Blanca is so gracious to him.”--“I rather suspect he is a -spy upon us all,” observed the Sardinian ambassadress, who made one of -the voltarete party; “and though he guessed right about the winning card -last night at the Countess of Benevente’s, I am determined not to invite -him to dinner again in a hurry.” - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an - infidel in the German style.--Mass in the chapel of the - Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba’s villa.--Destruction by a young - French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French ambassador’s - ball.--Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi. - - -Sunday, Jan. 13th. - -Kauffman[28] accompanied me to the Prado this morning, where we met -Madame Bendicho and her faithful Expilly, (a famous tactician in war or -peace,) who told me that somebody I thought particularly interesting was -not far off. This intelligence imparted to me such animation, that -Kauffman was obliged to take long strides to equal my pace. I traversed -the whole Prado without meeting the object of my pursuit, and found -myself almost unconsciously in the court before the ugly front of the -church of Atocha. A tide of devotees carried us into the chapel of the -Virgin, which is hung round with trophies, and ex-voto’s, legs, arms, -and fingers, in wax and plaster. - -Kauffman is three parts an infidel in the German style, but I advised -him to kneel with something like Castilian solemnity, and hear out a -mass which was none of the shortest, the priest being old, and much -given to the wiping and adjusting of spectacles, a pair of which, -uncommonly large and lustrous, I thought he would never have succeeded -in fitting to his nose. - -We happened to kneel under the shade of some banners which the British -lion was simple enough to let slip out of his paws during the last war. -The colours of fort St. Philip dangled immediately above my head. -Amongst the crowd of Our Lady’s worshippers I espied one of the gayest -of my ball-room acquaintances, the young Duke of Arion, looking like a -strayed sheep, and smiting his breast most piteously. - -A tiresome salve regina being ended, I measured back my steps to the -Prado, and at length discovered the person of all others I wished most -to see, strictly guarded by mamma. I accompanied them to their door, -and returned loiteringly and lingeringly home, where I found Infantado, -who had been waiting for me above half an hour. With him I rode out on -the Toledo road to see a pompous bridge, or rather viaduct; for the -river it spans, even in this season, is scarcely copious enough to turn -the model of a mill-wheel, much less the reality. - -From this spot we went to a villa lately purchased by the Duchess of -Alba, and which, I was told, Rubens had once inhabited. True enough, we -found a conceited young French artist in the arabesque and cupid line, -busily employed in pouncing out the last memorials in this spot of that -great painter; reminiscences of favourite pictures he had thrown off in -fresco, upon what appeared a rich crimson damask ground. Yes, I -witnessed this vandalish operation, and saw large flakes of stucco -imprinted with the touches of Rubens fall upon the floor, and heard the -wretch who was perpetrating the irreparable act sing, “Veillons mes -sœurs, veillons encorrre,” with a strong Parisian accent, all the -while he was slashing away. - -My sweet temper was so much ruffled by this spectacle, that I begged to -be excused any further excursion, and returned home to dress and -compose myself, while Infantado went back to his palace. I soon joined -him, having been invited to dine with his right virtuous and estimable -papa. Thank heaven the rage for Frenchified decoration has not yet -reached this plain but princely abode, which remains in noble Castilian -simplicity, with all its famed pictures untouched and uncontaminated. - -As soon as the old duke had retired to his evening’s devotions, we -hurried to the French ambassador’s ball, where I met fewer saints than -sinners, and saw nothing particularly edifying, except the semi-royal -race of the Medina Celis dancing “high and disposedly.” Cogolhudo, the -heir-apparent of this great house, is a good-natured, busy personage, -but his illustrious consort, who has been recently appointed to the -important office of Camerara mayor, or mistress of the robes to the -image of Our Lady of La Soledad, is a great deal less kindly and -affable.[29] - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens of the - Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d’Aranda.--State of - Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d’Aranda’s - toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame Badaan.--Cortejos off - duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A curious group.--A dance. - - -Sunday, 23rd. - -Every morning I have the pleasure of supplying the Grand Signior’s -representative with rolls and brioche, baked at home for my breakfast; -and this very day he came himself in one of the king’s lumbering state -coaches, with some of his special favourites, to thank me for these -piping hot attentions. We had a great deal of conversation about the -marvels of London, though he seemed stoutly convinced that in every -respect Islembul exceeded it ten times over. - -As soon as he moved off, I strolled to the gardens of the Buen Retiro, -which contains neither statues nor fountains worth describing. They -cover a vast extent of sandy ground, in which there is no prevailing -upon anything vegetable or animal to thrive, except ostriches, a troop -of which were striding about in high spirits, apparently as much at home -as in their own native parched-up deserts. - -Roxas dined with us, and we went together in the evening to the French -ambassador’s, the Duke de la V****. His daughter, a fine young woman of -eighteen or nineteen, is married to the Prince de L****, a smart -stripling, who has scarcely entered his fifteenth year; the ambassador -is no trifling proficient in political intrigue, no common-place twister -and turner in the paths of diplomacy, looks about him with calm and -polished indifference, though full of hazardous schemes and projects; -ever in secret ferment, and a Jesuit to the heart’s core. I could not -help noticing his quiet, observing eye--the still eye of a serpent lying -perdue in a cave. In his address and manners he is quite a model of -high-bred ease, without the slightest tincture of pedantry or -affectation. - -Madame la Duchesse is a great deal fonder of fine phrases, which she -does not always reserve for grand occasions. Their son, the Prince de -C***, amused me beyond bounds with his lightning-like flashes of wit and -merriment, at the expense of Madrid and its tertullias. Upon the whole, -I like this family very much, and ardently wish they may like me. - -I could not stay with them so long as I desired, Roxas having promised -to present me to Madame d’Aranda, whose devoted friend and _cortejo_ he -has the consummate pleasure to be. Happy the man who has the good -fortune of being attached by such delicious, though not quite strictly -sacred ties, to so charming a little creature; but in general the state -of cortejo-ism is far from enviable. You are the sworn victim of all the -lady’s caprices, and can never move out of the rustle of her black silk -petticoats, or beyond the wave of her fan, without especial permission, -less frequently granted with complacence than refused with asperity. I -imagine she has very good-naturedly given him leave of absence to show -me about this royal village, or else I should think he would hardly -venture to spare me so much of his company. - -We found her sitting _en famille_ with her sister, and two young boys -her brothers, over a silver brazier in a snug interior apartment hung -with a bright valencia satin. She showed me the most pleasing marks of -civility and attention, and ordered her own apartments to be lighted up, -that I might see its magnificent furniture to advantage. The bed, of the -richest blue velvet trimmed with point lace, is beautifully shaped, and -placed in a spacious and deep recess hung round with an immense -profusion of ample curtains. - -I wonder architects and fitters up of apartments do not avail themselves -more frequently of the powers of drapery. Nothing produces so grand and -at the same time so comfortable an effect. The moment I have an -opportunity I will set about constructing a tabernacle, larger than the -one I arranged at Ramalhaô, and indulge myself in every variety of plait -and fold that can possibly be invented. - -Madame d’Aranda’s toilet, designed by Moite the sculptor and executed by -Auguste, is by far the most exquisite _chef-d’œuvre_ of the kind I -ever saw. Poor thing! she has every exterior delight the pomps and -vanities of the world can give; but she is married to a man old enough -to be her grandfather, and looks as pale and drooping as a narcissus or -lily of the valley would appear if stuck in Abraham’s bosom, and -continually breathed upon by that venerable patriarch. - -After passing a delightful hour in what appeared to me an ethereal sort -of fairy-land, we went to a far more earthly abode, that of a Madame -Badaan, who is so obliging as to give immense assemblies once or twice a -week, in rather confined apartments. This small, but convenient -habitation, is no idle or unimportant resort for cortejos off duty, or -in search of novel adventures. Several of these disbanded worthies were -lounging about in the mean time, quite lackadaisically. There was a -blaze of beauty in every corner of the room, sufficient to enchant those -the least given to being enchanted; and there frisked the two little -Sabatinis, half Spanish, half Italian, sporting their neatly turned -ankles; and there sat Madame de Villamayor in all her pride, and her -daughters so full of promise; and the Marchioness of Santa Cruz, with -her dark hair and blue eyes, in all her loveliness. How delighted my -friend, the Effendi, must have been upon entering such a paradise, which -he soon did after we arrived there, followed by his Armenian -interpreter, whom I like better than the Greek, Timoni, with his prying, -squirrelish look, and malicious propensities. - -The ambassador found me out almost immediately, and taking me to an -angle of the apartment, where a well-cushioned divan had been prepared -for his lollification, made me sit down by him whether I would or not. -We were just settled, when a bevy of young tits dressed out in a -fantastic, blowzy style, with sparkling eyes and streaming ribbons, drew -their chairs round us, and began talking a strange lingua-franca, -composed of three or four different languages. We must have formed a -curious group; I was declaiming and gesticulating with all my might, -reciting scraps of Hafiz and Mesihi, whilst the ladies, none of the -tallest, who were seated on low chairs, kept perking up their pretty -little inquisitive faces in the very beard of the stately Moslem, whose -solemn demeanour formed an amusing contrast to their giddy vivacity. - -Madame Badaan and her spouse, the very best people in the world, and the -readiest to afford their company all possible varieties of -accommodation, sent for the most famous band of musicians Madrid could -boast of, and proposed a dance for the entertainment of his bearded -excellency. Accordingly, thirteen or fourteen couples started, and -boleroed and fandangoed away upon a thick carpet for an hour or two, -without intermission. There are scarcely any boarded floors in Madrid, -so the custom of dancing upon rugs is universally established. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange - medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the - Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by - Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present - reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna’s house.--Apathy - pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. - - -Tuesday, December 1st, 1795. - -It was on a clear bright morning (scarce any frost) that we left a -wretched place called Villatoba, falling into ruins like almost all the -towns and villages I have seen in Spain. The sky was so transparent, so -pearly, and the sunbeams so fresh and reviving, that the country -appeared pleasant in spite of its flatness and aridity. Every tree has -been cut down, and all chance of their being replaced precluded by the -wandering flocks of sheep, goats and swine, which rout, and grout, and -nibble uncontrolled and unmolested. - -At length, after a tedious drive through vast tracts of desolate -country, scarce a house, scarce a shrub, scarce a human being to meet -with, we descended a rapid declivity, and I once more found myself in -the valley of Aranjuez. The avenues of poplar and plane have shot up to -a striking elevation since I saw them last. The planes on the banks of -the Tagus incline most respectfully towards its waters; they are -vigorously luxuriant, although planted only seven years ago, as the -gardener informed me. - -Charles the Fifth’s elms in the island-garden close to the palace are -decaying apace. I visited the nine venerable stumps close to a hideous -brick-ruin; the largest measures forty or fifty feet in girth; the roots -are picturesquely fantastic. The fountains, like the shades in which -they are embowered, are rapidly going to decay: the bronze Venus, at the -fountain which takes its name from Don John of Austria, has lost her -arm. - -Notwithstanding the dreariness of the season with all its accompaniment -of dry leaves and faded herbage, this historic garden had still charms; -the air was mild, and the sunbeams played on the Tagus, and many a bird -flitted from spray to spray. Several long alleys of the loftiest elms, -their huge rough trunks mantled with ivy, and their grotesque roots -advancing and receding like grotto-work into the walk, struck me as -singularly pleasing. - -The palace has not been long completed; the additions made by Charles -the Third agree not ill with the original edifice. It is a comfortable, -though not a magnificent abode; walls thick, windows cheerfully glazed -in two panels, neat low chimney-pieces in many of the apartments; few -traces of the days of the Philips; scarce any furniture that bespeak an -ancient family. A flimsy modern style, half Italian, half French, -prevails. Even the pictures are, in point of subjects, preservation, -originality, and masters, as strangely jumbled together as in the -dominions of an auctioneer. This may be accounted for by their being -collected indiscriminately by the present King, whilst prince of -Asturias. Amongst innumerable trash, I noticed a Crucifixion by Mengs; -not overburthened with expression, but finely coloured; the back-ground -and sky most gloomily portentous, and producing a grand effect of light -and shade. The interior of a gothic church, by Peter Neef, so fine, so -clear, so silvery in point of tint, as to reconcile me, (for the moment, -at least,) to this harsh, stiff master; the figures exquisite, the -preservation perfect; no varnish, no retouches. - -A set of twelve small cabinet pictures, touched with admirable spirit by -Teniers, the subjects taken from the Gierusalemme Liberata, treated as -familiarly as if the boozy painter had been still copying his -pot-companions. Armida’s palace is a little round summer-house; she -herself, habited like a burgher’s frouw in her holiday garments, holds a -Nuremberg-shaped looking-glass up to the broad vulgar face of a boorish -Rinaldo. The fair Naiads, comfortably fat, and most invitingly smirkish, -are naked to be sure, but a pile of furbelowed garments and farthingales -is ostentatiously displayed on the bank of the water; close by a small -table covered with a neat white tablecloth, and garnished with silver -tankards, cold pie, and salvers of custard and jellies. All these vulgar -accessories are finished with scrupulous delicacy. - -Several oratories open into the royal apartments. One set apart for the -Queen is adorned with a very costly, and at the same time beautiful -altar, rich, simple, and majestic; not an ornament is lavished in vain. -Two Corinthian columns of a most beautiful purple and white marble, -sustain a pediment, as highly polished and as richly mottled as any -agate I ever beheld; the capitals are bronze splendidly gilt, so is the -foliage of the consoles supporting the slab which forms the altar. The -design, the materials, the workmanship, are all Spanish, and do the -nation credit. - -The king’s oratory is much larger, and not ill-designed; the proportion -is good, about twenty-six by twenty-two, and twenty-four high, besides a -solemn recess for the altar. The walls entirely covered with -fresco-painting; saints, prophets, clouds, and angels, in grand -confusion. The sides of the arch, and all the frame of the altar-piece, -are profusely and solidly gilt. A plinth of jasper, and a skirting about -three feet high, of a light-grey marble, streaked with black, not unlike -the capricious ramifications on mocho-stones, and polished as a mirror, -is continued round the room, so that nothing meets the eye but the rich -gleam of gold, painting, and marble, all blended together in one -glowing tint. The pavement, too, of different Spanish marbles, is a -_chef-d’œuvre_ of workmanship. I particularly admired the soft -ivory-hue of the white marble, but my conductor allowed it little merit -when compared with that of Italy: I think him mistaken in this remark, -and heartily wish him so in many others. - -This conductor, an old snuffling domestic of the late king, was rather -forward in making his remarks upon times present. A sort of Piedmontese -in my train, I believe the master of the fonda where I lodge, pointing -to a _manege_ now building, asked for whom it was designed, the King or -the Duke d’Alcudia? “For both, no doubt,” was the answer; “what serves -one serves the other.” In the royal tribune, I was informed, with a -woful shrug, that the King, thank God! continued to be exact and fervent -in his devotions; never missing mass a single day, and frequently -spending considerable time in mental prayer; but that the Queen was -scandalously remiss, and seldom appeared in the chapels, except when -some slender remains of etiquette render her presence indispensable. - -The chapel, repaired after designs of Sabbatini, an old Italian -architect, much in favour with Charles the Third, has merit, and is -remarkable for the just distribution of light, which produces a solemn -religious effect. The three altars are noble, and their paintings good. -One in particular, on the right, dedicated to St. Anthony, immediately -attracted my attention by the effulgence of glory amidst which the -infant Jesus is descending to caress the kneeling saint, whose attitude, -and youthful, enthusiastic countenance, have great expression. The -colouring is warm and harmonious; Maella is the painter. - -I inquired after a remarkable room in this palace, called in the plan -_Salon de los Funciones_, and vulgarly _el Coliseo_. The ceiling was -painted by Mengs, and esteemed one of his capital works: here Ferdinand -and Barbara, the most musical of sovereigns, used to melt in ecstasies -at the soft warblings of Farinelli and Egiziello--but, alas! the scene -of their amusements, like themselves and their warblers, is no more. -Not later than last summer, this grand theatrical apartment was divided -into a suite of shabby, bandboxical rooms for the accommodation of the -Infant of Parma. No mercy was shown to the beautiful roof. In some -places, legs and folds of drapery are still visible; but the workmen are -hammering and plastering at a great rate, and in a few days whitewash -will cover all. - -Coming out of the palace, and observing how deserted and melancholy the -walks, garden, and avenues appeared, I was told, that in a few weeks a -total change would take place, for the court was expected on the 6th of -January, to remain six months, and that every pleasure followed in its -train. Shoals of gamblers, and ladies of easy virtue of all ranks, ages, -and descriptions. Every barrier which Charles the Third, of chaste and -pious memory, attempted to oppose to the wanton inclinations of his -subjects, has been broken down in the present reign; boundless freedom -of conduct prevails, and the most disgusting debauchery riots in these -lovely groves, which deserve to be set apart for elegant and rural -pleasures. - -In my walks I passed a huge edifice lately built for the favourite -Alcudia. Common report accuses it of being more magnificently furnished -than the royal residence; but as I did not enter it, I shall content -myself with noting down, that it boasts nineteen windows in front, and a -plain Tuscan portal with handsome granite pillars. Adjoining is a house -belonging to the Duchess of Ossuna, full of workmen, painters, and -stuccadors: a goggle-eyed Milanese, most fiercely conceited, is daubing -the walls with all his might and main. He is an architect too, at least -I have his word for it, and claims the merit, a great one as he -believes, of having designed a sort of ball-room, with many a festoon -and Bohemian glass-chandelier and coarse arabesque. The floor is -bricked, upon which thick mats or carpets are spread when dancing is -going forward. - -I was in hopes this tiresome custom of thumping mats and rugs with the -feet, to the brisk airs of boleros and fandangos, was exploded. No music -is more inspiring than the Spanish; what a pity they refuse themselves -the joy of rising a foot or two into the air at every step, by the help -of elastic boards. - -Next to this sort of a ball-room is a sort of an oval boudoir, and then -a sort of an octagon; all bad sorts of their kind. This confounded -painter is covering the oval with landscapes, not half so harmonious or -spirited as those which figure on Birmingham snuff-boxes or tea-boards. -He has a terrible partiality to blues and greens of the crudest tints. -Such colours affect my eyes as disagreeably as certain sounds my teeth, -when set on edge. I pity the Duchess of Ossuna, whose liberal desire of -encouraging the arts deserves better artists. In music she has been more -fortunate: Boccharini directed her band when I was last at Madrid; and I -remember with what transport she heard and applauded the Galli, to whom -she sent one morning a present of the most expensive trinkets, -carelessly heaped up upon a magnificent salver of massive silver, two or -three feet in diameter. - -The day closed as I was wandering about the Duchess’s mansion, surprised -at the slovenly neglect of the furniture, not an article of which has -been moved out of the reach of dust, scaffoldings, the exhalations of -paint, and the still more pestilential exhalation of garlick-eating -workmen. Universal apathy and indifference to everything seems to -pervade the whole Iberian peninsula. If not caring what you eat or what -you drink is a virtue, so far the evangelical precept is obeyed. So it -is in Portugal, and so it is in Spain, and so it looks likely to be -world without end: to which, let the rest of Europe say amen; for were -these countries to open their long-closed eyes, cast off their trammels, -and rouse themselves to industry, they would soon surpass their -neighbours in wealth and population. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive rage - for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley of - Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals - there.--Degeneration of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 2nd, 1795. - -It was near eleven before a thick fog, which had arisen from the groves -and waters of Aranjuez, dispersed. I took advantage of a bright sunshine -to issue forth on horseback, and explore the extremities of the Calle de -la Reyna. Most of the ancient elms which compose this noble avenue, are -dead-topped, many have lost their flourishing heads since I was last -here, but on every side innumerable plantations of oak, elm, poplar, and -plane, are springing up in all the vigour and luxuriance of youth. I was -sorry to see many, very many acres of unmeaning shrubbery, serpentine -walks, and clumps of paltry flowers, encroaching upon the wild thickets -upon the banks of the Tagus. - -The King, the Queen, the favourite, are bitten by the rage of what they -fancy to be improvement, and are levelling ground, and smoothing banks, -and building rock-work, with pagodas and Chinese-railing. The laburnums, -weeping-willows, and flowering shrubs, which I admired so much seven -years ago in all their native luxuriance, are beginning to be trimmed -and tortured into what the gardener calls genteel shapes. Even the -course of the Tagus has been thwarted, and part of its waters diverted -into a broad ditch in order to form an island; flat, swampy, and dotted -over with exotic shrubs, to make room for which many a venerable arbele -and poplar has been laid low. - -Hard by stands a large brick mansion, just erected, in the dullest and -commonest Spanish taste, very improperly called Casa del Labrador. It -has nothing rural about it, not even a hen-roost or a hog-sty; but the -kitchen is snug and commodious, and to this his Catholic Majesty often -resorts, and cooks with his own royal hands, and for his own royal -self, creadillas, (alias lamb’s fry,) garlick-omelets, and other savoury -messes, in the national style. - -Nothing delights the good-natured monarch so much as a pretence for -descending into low life, and creeping out of the sight of his court, -his council, and his people; therefore Madrid is almost totally -abandoned by him, and many capricious buildings are starting up in every -secluded corner of the royal parks and gardens. This last is the ugliest -and most unmeaning of all. I recollect being pleased with the casinos he -built whilst Prince of Asturias, at the Escurial and the Pardo. His -present advisers, in matters of taste, are inferior even to those who -direct his political movements; and the workmen, who obey the first, -still more unskilful and bungling than the generals, admirals, and -engineers, who carry the plans of the latter into execution. - -If they would but let Aranjuez alone, I should not care. Nature has -lavished her charms most bountifully on this valley; the wild hills -which close it in, though barren, are picturesquely-shaped; the Tagus -here winds along in the boldest manner, overhung by crooked willows and -lofty arbeles; now losing itself in almost impervious thickets, now -under-mining steep banks, laying rocks bare, and forming irregular coves -and recesses; now flowing smoothly through vast tracts of low shrubs, -aspens, and tamarisks; in one spot edged by the most delicate -greensward, in another by beds of mint and a thousand other fragrant -herbs. I saw numerous herds of deer bounding along in full enjoyment of -pasture and liberty; droves of horses, many of a soft cream-colour, were -frisking about under some gigantic alders; and I counted one hundred and -eighty cows, of a most remarkable size, in a green meadow, ruminating in -peace and plenty. - -The animal creation at Aranjuez seem, undoubtedly, to enjoy all the -blessings of an excellent government. The breed is peculiarly attended -to, and no pains or expense spared, to procure the finest bulls from -every quarter. Cows more beautifully dappled, more comfortably sleek, I -never beheld. - -If the race of grandees could, by judicious crossing, be sustained as -successfully, Spain would not have to lament her present scurvy, -ill-favoured generation of nobility. Should they be suffered to dwindle -much longer, and accumulate estates and diseases by eternal -intermarriages in the same family, I expect to see them on all-fours -before the next century is much advanced in its course. These little -men, however, are not without some sparks of a lofty, resolute spirit; -very few, indeed, have bowed the knee to the Baal of the present hour, -to the image which the King has set up. A train of eager, hungry -dependants, picked out of inferior and foreign classes, form the company -of the Duke of Alcudia. Notwithstanding his lofty titles, unbounded -wealth, solid power, and dazzling magnificence, he is treated by the -first class with silent contempt and passive indifference. They read the -tale of his illustrious descent with the same sneering incredulity, as -the patents and decrees which enumerate the services he has done the -state. Few instances, perhaps, are upon record, of a more steady, -persevering contempt of an object in actual power, stamped with every -ornament royal favour can devise to give it credit, value, and currency. - -A thousand interesting reflections arising from this subject crowded my -mind as I rode home through the stately and now deserted alleys of -Aranjuez. The weather was growing chill, and the withered leaves began -to rustle. I was glad to take refuge by a blazing fire. Money, which -procures almost everything, had not failed to seduce the best salads and -apples from the royal gardens, admirable butter and good game; so I -feasted royally, though I dare say I should have done more so, in the -most extensive sense of the word, could some supernatural power or -Frenchified revolution have procured me the royal cook. His Majesty, I -am assured, by those I am far from suspecting of flattery, has real -talents for this most useful profession. - -The comfortable listlessness which had crept over me was too pleasant to -be shaken off, and I remained snug by my fireside the whole evening. - -THE END. - -LONDON: PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -headach and indisposition=> headache and indisposition {pg v1 185} - -so wan and singugular=> so wan and singular {pg v1 201} - -into some inchanted cave=> into some enchanted cave {pg v1 231} - -suprising variety of other plants=> surprising variety of other plants -{pg v1 351} - -The shubberies and garden=> The shrubberies and garden {pg v2 182} - -ton at present in this court=> tone at present in this court {pg v2 240} - -statu quo=> status quo {pg v2 243} - -Nuestra Senora=> Nuestra Señora {pg v2 286} - - * * * * * - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] This crucifix was made of the bronze which had formed the statue of -the terrible Duke of Alva, swept in its first form from the citadel -where it was proudly stationed, in a moment of popular fury. - -[2] The History of John Bull explains this ridiculous appellation. - -[3] Hills in the neighbourhood of Canton. - -[4] Apuleius Met: Lib. 5. - - Vehementer iterum ac sæpius beatos illos qui - Super gemmas et monilia calcant! - - -[5] Schönberg, beautiful mountain. - -[6] Ariosto Orlando Furioso.--_Canto 7, stanza 32._ - -[7] A nephew of Bertoni, the celebrated composer. - -[8] This excellent and highly cultivated woman died at Naples in August -1782. Had she lived to a later period her example and influence might -probably have gone great lengths towards arresting that tide of -corruption and profligacy which swept off this ill-fated court to -Sicily, and threatened its total destruction. - -[9] Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i. p. 439. - -[10] The Piscina mirabilis. - -[11] See Letter VII. - -[12] See Miss Williams’s poems. - -[13] Since Marquis of Abrantes. - -[14] Writers of travels are sadly given to exaggeration. The author of -the Tableau du Lisbonne writes, “Il est dix heures, une foule de P. de -Ch. s’avance,” &c. From such an account one would suppose the whole line -of houses in motion. No such thing. At intervals, to be sure, some -accidents of this sort, more or less, slily occur; but by no means in so -general and evident a manner. - -[15] These affecting tones seem to have made a lasting impression indeed -upon the heart of a young man, one of the principal clerks in the -Secretary of State’s office; he was all admiration, all ardour, his -divinity all indifference. After a long period of unavailing courtship, -the poor lover, driven to absolute despair, made a donation of all he -was worth in the world to the object of his adoration, and threw himself -into the Tagus. Providentially he was fished out and brought home, pale -and almost inanimate. Such a spectacle, accompanied by so vivid a proof -of unlimited passion, had its effect. The lady relented, they were -united, and are as happy at this day, I believe, as the recollection of -so narrow an escape, and its cause, can make them. - -[16] An old English housekeeper. - -[17] For no light specimen of these atrocities, see Southey’s Letters -from Spain and Portugal. - -[18] Don Joaô da Valperra. - -[19] At the time I wrote this, half Lisbon believed in the individuality -of the holy crows, and the other half prudently concealed their -scepticism. - -[20] Don Josè, elder brother of the late king, John VI. - -[21] Dryden. - -[22] The royal chapel of the Ajuda, though somewhat fallen from the -unequalled splendour it boasted during the sing-song days of the late -king, Don Joseph, still displayed some of the finest specimens of vocal -manufacture which Italy could furnish. It possessed, at the same time, -Carlo Reina, Ferracuti, Totti, Fedelino, Ripa, Gelati, Venanzio, -Biagino, and Marini--all these _virtuosi_, with names ending in vowels, -were either _contraltos_ of the softest note, or _sopranos_ of the -highest squeakery. - -[23] Now Marquis of Tancos. - -[24] About the period of the present king’s accession, several ladies of -this description had bounced into the peerage; but as they did not walk -at the coronation, somebody observed, it was odd enough that the -peeresses best accustomed to a free use of their limbs, declined -stirring a step upon this occasion. Horace Walpole mentions this bon mot -in some of his letters; I forget to whom he attributes it. - -[25] The personage in question paid dearly for having listened to evil -counsellors and exciting the suspicions of the church. In about a -twelvemonth after this conversation, the small pox, not attended to so -skilfully as it might have been, was suffered to carry him off, and -reduced his imperious widow to a mere cipher in the politics of a court -she had begun very successfully to agitate. To this period the cruel -distress of the queen’s mind may be traced. The conflict between -maternal tenderness and what she thought political duty, may be supposed -with much greater probability to have produced her fatal derangement, -than all the scruples respecting the Aveiro and Tavoura confiscations -which the fanatical, interested priest, who succeeded my excellent -friend, excited. - -[26] A well-known wily diplomatist, afterwards ambassador at -Constantinople. - -[27] He resided afterwards at Paris in a diplomatic character, and is -supposed to have been implicated in some of the least amiable events of -the revolution. A mysterious passage in the first volume of Soulavie’s -Memoirs is said to refer to him. He was particularly intimate with -citizen Egalité. - -[28] A nephew of the famous Angelica, and no indifferent painter -himself. - -[29] I have seen a beautiful portrait, engraved by Selma, of this image, -and dedicated in due form to its first lady of the dressing-room, -Marchioness of Cogolhudo, Duchess of San Estévan, &c. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Italy; with sketches of Spain and -Portugal, by William Beckford - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - -***** This file should be named 41150-0.txt or 41150-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41150/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal - -Author: William Beckford - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41150] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's note: This etext, which includes the two volumes, attempts -to replicate the printed book as closely as possible. Obvious errors in -spelling and punctuation have been corrected. A list follows the etext. -The archaic spelling of words used by the author (chesnuts, befel, -visiters, cotemporary, woful, etc.) has not been corrected or modernized -by the etext transcriber. Footnotes have been moved to the end of the -text body. - - - - -ITALY; - -WITH SKETCHES OF - -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF "VATHEK." - -THIRD EDITION. - -IN TWO VOLUMES. - -VOL. I. - -LONDON: -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, -Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. -1835. - - - - -ADVERTISEMENT. - - -Some justly admired Authors having condescended to glean a few stray -thoughts from these Letters, which have remained dormant a great many -years; I have been at length emboldened to lay them before the public. -Perhaps, as they happen to contain passages which persons of -acknowledged taste have honoured with their notice, they may possibly be -less unworthy of emerging from the shade into daylight than I imagined. - -Most of these Letters were written in the bloom and heyday of youthful -spirits and youthful confidence, at a period when the old order of -things existed with all its picturesque pomps and absurdities; when -Venice enjoyed her piombi and submarine dungeons; France her bastile; -the Peninsula her holy Inquisition. To look back upon what is beginning -to appear almost a fabulous era in the eyes of the modern children of -light, is not unamusing or uninstructive; for, still better to -appreciate the present, we should be led not unfrequently to recall the -intellectual muzziness of the past. - -But happily these pages are not crowded with such records: they are -chiefly filled with delineations of landscape and those effects of -natural phenomena which it is not in the power of revolutions or -constitutions to alter or destroy. - -A few moments snatched from the contemplation of political crimes, -bloodshed, and treachery, are a few moments gained to all lovers of -innocent illusion. Nor need the statesman or the scholar despise the -occasional relaxation of light reading. When Jupiter and the great -deities are represented by Homer as retiring from scenes of havoc and -carnage to visit the blameless and quiet Ethiopians, who were the -farthest removed of all nations, the Lord knows whither, at the very -extremities of the ocean,--would they have given ear to manifestos or -protocols? No, they would much rather have listened to the Tales of -Mother Goose. - -London, June 12th, 1834. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE FIRST VOLUME. - - -THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY. - -LETTER I. - -Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet -and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The -Place de Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, -contrasted with the tumult and uproar of London. Page 3 - - -LETTER II. - -Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur -Van Lencren's collection.--The Canon Knyff's house and -gallery of paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic -felicity.--Revisit the cathedral.--Grand service in honour of -Saint John the Baptist.--Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist's -astonishing flashes of execution.--Evening service in the -cathedral.--Magical effect of the music of Jomelli.--Blighted -avenues.--Slow travelling.--Enter the United Provinces.--Level -scenery.--Chinese prospects.--Reach Meerdyke.--Arrival at the Hague. 14 - - -LETTER III. - -The Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings.--Temptation -of St. Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by -Berghem and Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable -productions of the Indies.--Enamelled flasks of oriental -essences.--Vision of the wardrobe of Hecuba.--Disenchantment.--Cabinet -of natural history.--A day dream.--A delicious morsel.--Dinner -at Sir Joseph Yorke's.--Two honourable boobies.--The Great -Wood.--Parterres of the Greffier Fagel.--Air poisoned by the -sluggish canals.--Fishy locality of Dutch banquetting -rooms.--Derivation of the inhabitants of Holland.--Origin -and use of enormous galligaskins.--Escape from damp alleys -and lazy waters. 24 - - -LETTER IV. - -Leave the Hague.--Leyden.--Wood near Haerlem.--Waddling -fishermen.--Enter the town.--The great fair.--Riot -and uproar.--Confusion of tongues.--Mine hostess. 32 - - -LETTER V. - -Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht--Country-houses and -gardens.--Neat enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies -and Lapdogs.--Arrival at Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The -woods.--Shops.--Celestial love.--Musical -Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht. 35 - - -LETTER VI. - -Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy -saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal -depredators.--Arrival at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three -Wise Sovereigns.--Peregrinations of their beatified bones.--Road -to Bonn.--Delights of Catholicism.--Azure mountains.--Visionary -palaces. 39 - - -LETTER VII. - -Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn -to Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A -winding valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A -supposed Apparition.--A little sequestered Paradise. 47 - - -LETTER VIII. - -Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A -Storm.--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village -of Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited -plains on its margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the -Town.--Pomposities of the Town House. 53 - - -LETTER IX. - -Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand Fair at -Munich.--The Elector's country palace.--Court Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden -and tea-room.--Hoydening -festivities there.--The Palace and Chapel.--Gorgeous riches -of the latter.--St. Peter's thumb.--The Elector's collection -of pictures.--The Churches.--Hubbub and confusion -of the Fair.--Wild tract of country.--Village of Wolfrathshausen.--Perpetual -forests.--A Tempest.--A night -at a cottage. 63 - - -LETTER X. - -Mittenwald.--Mountain chapels.--Saint Anna's young -and fair worshippers.--Road to Inspruck.--Maximilian's -tomb.--Vast range of prospects.--A mountain torrent.--Schnberg. 73 - - -LETTER XI. - -Steinach.--Its torrent and gloomy strait.--Achievements -of Industry.--A sleepy Region.--Beautiful country round -Brixen. 84 - - -ITALY. - -LETTER I. - -Bolsano.--Indications of approaching Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance -of the Peasantry.--A forest Lake.--Arrive -at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the Venetian -State.--Gorgeous Flies.--Fortress of Covalo.--Leave the -country of crags and precipices and enter the territory -of the Bassanese.--Groves of olives and vines.--Classic appearance -of Bassano.--Happy groups.--Pachierotti, the -celebrated singer.--Anecdote of him. 89 - - -LETTER II. - -Villa of Mosolente.--The route to Venice.--First view -of that city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning -scene on the grand canal.--Church of Santa -Maria della Salute.--Interesting group of stately buildings.--Convent -of St. Giorgio Maggiore.--The Redentore--Island -of the Carthusians. 97 - - -LETTER III. - -Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals -formerly celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The -Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossal -Statues.--Giants' Stairs.--Fit of enthusiasm.--Evening-scene -in the great Square.--Venetian -intrigue.--Confusion of languages.--Madame de Rosenberg.--Character -of the Venetians. 111 - - -LETTER IV. - -Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary -shore.--Scene of the Doge's nuptials with the sea.--Return -to the Place of St. Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles -for anonymous accusations.--The Council of Ten.--Terrible -punishments of its victims.--Statue of Neptune.--Fatal -Waters.--Bridge of Sighs.--The Fondamenti Nuovi.--Conservatory -of the Mendicanti.--An Oratorio.--Profound -attention of the Audience. 123 - - -LETTER V. - -M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings -of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian's -master-piece in the church of San Giovanni -e Paolo.--The distant Euganean hills. 132 - - -LETTER VI. - -Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous -city of Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music -on the inhabitants of the Islands.--Solitary fields infested -by serpents.--Remains of ancient sculpture.--Antique and -fantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Torcello.--San Lorenzo's -chair.--Dine in a Convent.--The Nuns.--Oratorio -of Sisera.--Remarks on the music.--Singing of the Marchetti.--A -female orchestra. 137 - - -LETTER VII. - -Coast of Fusina.--The Brenta.--A Village of Palaces.--Fiesso.--Exquisite -singing of the Galuzzi.--Marietta -Cornaro.--Scenes of enchantment and fascination. 145 - - -LETTER VIII. - -Reveries.--Walls of Padua.--Confused Pile dedicated to -Saint Anthony.--Devotion at his Shrine.--Penitential -Worshippers.--Magnificent Altar.--Sculpture of Sansovino.--Colossal -Chamber like Noah's Ark. 149 - - -LETTER IX. - -Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous -attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini's music.--Another -excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean -hills.--Newly discovered ruins.--High Mass in the great -Church of Saint Anthony.--A thunder-storm.--Palladio's -Theatre at Vicenza.--Verona.--An arial chamber.--Striking -prospect from it.--The amphitheatre.--Its interior.--Leave -Verona.--Country between that town and -Mantua.--German soldiers.--Remains of the palace of the -Gonzagas.--Paintings of Julio Romano.--A ruined garden.--Subterranean -apartments. 153 - - -LETTER X. - -Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge -of the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected -with those mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to -Bologna.--Magnificent Convent of Madonna del Monte.--Natural -and political commotions in Bologna.--Proceed towards -the mountains.--Dreary prospects.--The scenery -improves.--Herds of goats.--A run with them.--Return -to the carriage.--Wretched hamlet.--Miserable repast. 166 - - -LETTER XI. - -A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant -view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the -Gallery.--Relics of ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A -Medusa's head by Leonardo da Vinci.--Curious picture -by Polemberg.--The Venus de Medicis.--Exquisitely -sculptured figure of Morpheus.--Vast Cathedral.--Garden -of Boboli.--Views from different parts of it.--Its resemblance -to an antique Roman garden. 173 - - -LETTER XII. - -Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He -catches cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is -in commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate with -the Singer on his imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill -scenery.--Princely Castle and Gardens of the Garzoni -Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of Ilex.--Endless -bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese -Mansi.--Return to Lucca. 186 - - -LETTER XIII. - -Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The -Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed -to Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of -the Fanale. 198 - - -LETTER XIV. - -The Mole at Leghorn.--Coast scattered over with Watch-towers.--Branches -of rare coral unexpectedly acquired. 200 - - -LETTER XV. - -Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures -by Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt -shown by the Austrians to the memory of the House of -Medici.--Evening visit to the Garden of Boboli.--The -Opera.--Miserable Singing.--A Neapolitan Duchess. 203 - - -LETTER XVI. - -Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend -one of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from -its brow.--Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of -a Princess.--The christening.--Another evening visit to -the woods of Boboli. 209 - - -LETTER XVII. - -Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of -Pine.--Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception -at the Convent.--Wild Glens where the Hermit -Gualbertus had his Cell.--Conversation with the holy -Fathers.--Legendary Tales.--The consecrated Cleft.--The -Romitorio.--Extensive View of the Val d'Arno.--Return -to Florence. 214 - - -LETTER XVIII. - -Cathedral at Sienna.--A vaulted Chamber.--Leave Sienna.--Mountains -round Radicofani.--Hunting Palace of the -Grand Dukes.--A grim fraternity of Cats.--Dreary Apartment. 224 - - -LETTER XIX. - -Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the -Papal territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of -the Lake of Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte -Fiascone.--Inhabited Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations -of Rome. 228 - - -LETTER XX. - -Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the -spacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient -splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherd -huts.--Wretched policy of the Papal Government.--Distant -view of Rome.--Sensations on entering the City.--The -Pope returning from Vespers.--St. Peter's Colonnade.--Interior -of the Church.--Reveries.--A visionary -scheme.--The Pantheon. 230 - - -LETTER XXI. - -Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical -associations.--The -Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain -Groves.--Rock of Circe.--The Appian Way.--Arrive -at Mola di Gaeta.--Beautiful prospect.--A Deluge.--Enter -Naples by night, during a fearful Storm.--Clear -Morning.--View from my window.--Courtly Mob at the -Palace.--The Presence Chamber.--The King and his Courtiers.--Party -at the House of Sir W. H.--Grand Illumination -at the Theatre of St. Carlo.--Marchesi. 240 - - -LETTER XXII. - -View of the coast of Posilipo.--Virgil's tomb.--Superstition -of the Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.--Arial -situation.--A grand scene. 253 - - -LETTER XXIII. - -A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross -the bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous -reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The -Dead Lake.--Wild scene.--Beautiful meadow.--Uncouth -rocks.--An unfathomable gulph.--Sadness induced -by the wild appearance of the place.--Conversation -with a recluse.--Her fearful narration.--Melancholy -evening. 258 - - -LETTER XXIV. - -The Tyrol Mountains.--Intense cold.--Delight on beholding -human habitations. 280 - - -SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. - - -LETTER I. - -First day of summer.--A dismal plain.--Gloomy entrance -to Cologne.--Labyrinth of hideous edifices.--Hotel of Der -Heilige Geist. 285 - - -LETTER II. - -Enter the Tyrol.--Picturesque scenery.--Village of Nasseriet.--World -of boughs.--Forest huts.--Floral abundance. 288 - - -LETTER III. - -Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore -of Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its -deserted appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. 290 - - -LETTER IV. - -Excursion to Mirabello.--Beauty of the road thither.--Madame -de R.'s wild-looking niece.--A comfortable -Monk's nest. 294 - - -LETTER V. - -Rome.--Strole to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.--A -grand Rinfresco.--The Egyptian Lionesses.--Illuminations. 297 - - -LETTER VI. - -The Negroni Garden.--Its solitary and antique appearance.--Stately -Porticos of the Lateran.--Dreary Scene. 299 - - -LETTER VII. - -Naples.--Portici.--The King's Pagliaro and Garden.--Description -of that pleasant spot. 302 - - -GRANDE CHARTREUSE. - -LETTER I. - -Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the -Village of Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance -of the Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--Dark -Woods and Caverns.--Crosses.--Inscriptions. 307 - - -LETTER II. - -Thick forest of beech-trees.--Fearful glimpses of the torrent.--Throne -of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of -the Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched -aisle.--Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.--The -Secretary and Procurator.--Conversation with them.--A -walk amongst the cloisters and galleries.--Pictures of different -Convents of the order.--Grand Hall adorned with -historical paintings of St. Bruno's life. 314 - - -LETTER III. - -Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the -Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The -great Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to -St. Bruno.--Retire to my cell.--Strange writings of St. -Bruno.--Sketch of his Life.--Appalling occurrence.--Vision -of the Bishop of Grenoble.--First institution of the Carthusian -order.--Death of St. Bruno.--His translation. 324 - - -LETTER IV. - -Mystic discourse.--A mountain ramble.--A benevolent -Hermit.--Red light in the northern sky.--Lose my way in -the solitary hills.--Approach of night. 335 - - -LETTER V. - -Pastoral scenery of Valombr.--Ascent of the highest -Peak in the Desert.--Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.--Farewell -benediction of the Fathers. 342 - - -SALEVE. - -LETTER I. - -Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.--Pas d'Echelle.--Moneti.--Bird's-eye -prospects.--Alpine flowers.--Extensive -view from the summit of Saleve.--Youthful enthusiasm.--Sad -realities. 357 - - -LETTER II. - -Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity -of the night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of -Genevese Morality. 366 - - - - -THE LOW COUNTRIES - -AND - -GERMANY. - - -LETTER I. - - Passage to Ostend.--The Capuchin church.--Ghent.--Quiet and - Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.--Antwerp.--The Place de - Meir.--Silence and solitude of the town, contrasted with the tumult - and uproar of London. - - -Ostend, 21st June, 1780. - -We had a rough passage, and arrived at this imperial haven in a piteous -condition. Notwithstanding its renown and importance, it is but a scurvy -place--preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when cast -upwards--swaggering Dutch skippers and mongrel smugglers are the -principal objects they meet with below; and then the whole atmosphere is -impregnated with the fumes of tobacco, burnt peat, and garlick. I -should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances of this seaport -confined only to two senses; but, alas! the apartment above my head -proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds which proceed from it are so -loud and frequent, that a person might think himself in limbo, without -any extravagance. - -In hope of some relief, I went to the Capuchin church, a large solemn -building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again was I -disappointed. There happened to be an exposition of the holy wafer with -ten thousand candles; and whilst half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued -and flourished away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks -gabbled before the altars, a whole posse of devotees, in long white -hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either side. - -This papal piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so -I sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the -evening--for the black huddle of clouds, which the late storms had -accumulated, were all melted away--tempted me to the ramparts. There, at -least, thought I to myself, I may range undisturbed, and talk with my -old friends the breezes, and address my discourse to the waves, and be -as romantic and fanciful as I please; but I had scarcely begun a poetic -apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies -and abbs and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such a -hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to observe the bright tints -of the western horizon, or enjoy those ideas of classic antiquity which -a calm sunset never fails to bring before my imagination. - -Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should -have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of -dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very -outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugarplums and -nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was restored, -and about eleven o'clock I fell into a slumber. My dreams anticipated -the classic scenes of Italy, the proposed term of my excursion. - -Next morning I arose refreshed with these agreeable impressions. No -ideas, but such as Nemi and Albano suggested, haunted me whilst -travelling to Ghent. I neither heard the coarse dialect which was -talking around me, nor noticed the formal avenues and marshy country -which we passed. When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes upon -the dull prospect, and was transported immediately to those Grecian -solitudes which Theocritus so enchantingly describes. - -To one so far gone in the poetic lore of ancient days, Ghent is not the -most likely place to recall his attention; and I know nothing more about -it, than that it is a large, ill-paved, plethoric, pompous-looking city, -with a decent proportion of convents and chapels, monuments, brazen -gates, and gilded marbles. In the great church were several pictures by -Rubens, so striking, so masterly, as to hold me broad awake; though, I -must own, there are moments when I could contentedly fall asleep in a -Flemish cathedral, for the mere chance of beholding in vision the temple -of Olympian Jupiter. - -But I think I hear, at this moment, some grave and respectable personage -chiding my enthusiasm--"Really, sir, you had better stay at home, and -dream in your great chair, than give yourself the trouble of going post -through Europe, in search of places where to fall asleep. If Flanders -and Holland are to be dreamed over at this rate, you had better take -ship at once, and doze all the way to Italy." Upon my word, I should not -have much objection to that scheme; and, if some enchanter would but -transport me in an instant to the summit of tna, anybody might slop -through the Low Countries that pleased. - -Being, however, so far advanced, there is no retracting; and I am -resolved to journey along with Quiet and Content for my companions. -These two comfortable deities have, I believe, taken Flanders under -their especial protection; every step one advances discovering some new -proof of their influence. The neatness of the houses, and the universal -cleanliness of the villages, show plainly that their inhabitants live in -ease and good humour. All is still and peaceful in these fertile -lowlands: the eye meets nothing but round unmeaning faces at every door, -and harmless stupidity smiling at every window. The beasts, as placid as -their masters, graze on without any disturbance; and I scarcely -recollect to have heard one grunting swine or snarling mastiff during -my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy dunghill, not at -all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and there sows and porkers -bask in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of death and -bacon arrives. - -But it is high time to lead you towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, -more ample fields of grain, more flourishing willows! A boundless plain -lies before this city, dotted with cows, and speckled with flowers; a -level whence its spires and quaint roofs are seen to advantage! The pale -colours of the sky, and a few gleams of watery sunshine, gave a true -Flemish cast to the scenery, and everything appeared so consistent, that -I had not a shadow of pretence to think myself asleep. - -After crossing a broad expanse of river, edged on one side by beds of -osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets -preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses to -our inn. Its situation in the "Place de Meir," a vast open space -surrounded by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has -something striking and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, -sculptured by Cortels of Malines,[1] adds to its splendour; and the -tops of some tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, add -greatly to the effect of the perspective. - -It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new -objects discovered by this dubious, visionary light, I went immediately -a rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations: there were no groups -of squabbling children or talkative old women. The whole town seemed -retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and turning -about, from street to street, and from alley to alley, without meeting a -single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two women in long cloaks -and mantles glided by at a distance; but their dress was so shroud-like, -and their whole appearance so ghostly, that I should have been afraid to -accost them. As night approached, the ranges of buildings grew more and -more dim, and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. The -canals, which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise in -perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me to observe -on the still waters the reflection of the structures above them. Except -two or three tapers glimmering through the casements, no one -circumstance indicated human existence. I might, without being thought -very romantic, have imagined myself in the city of petrified people -which Arabian fabulists are so fond of describing. Were any one to ask -my advice upon the subject of retirement, I should tell him--By all -means repair to Antwerp. No village amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon -Mount Lebanon, is less disturbed: you may pass your days in this great -city without being the least conscious of its sixty thousand -inhabitants, unless you visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be -heard a few devout whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a -little chiming; but, walk about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, -and be assured your ears will be free from all molestation. - -You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around me -whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty of my -situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, I was in the -midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if by some magic -influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable indeed for -streets and edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a profound -repose. What a pity that we cannot borrow some small share of this -soporific disposition! It would temper that restless spirit which throws -us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, let us not be too -precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time may arrive when, like -Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of forgetfulness; when a fine verdure -may carpet our Exchange, and passengers traverse the Strand without any -danger of being smothered in crowds or crushed by carriages. - -Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted -with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I -insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was -aware, under its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an object -more solemn or more imposing than this edifice at the hour I first -beheld it. Dark shades hindered my examining the lower galleries; their -elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of building -met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred and sixty-six feet -in the air, received an additional importance from the gloom which -prevailed below. The sky being perfectly clear, several stars twinkled -through the mosaic of the pinnacles, and increased the charm of their -effect. - -Whilst I was indulging my reveries, a ponderous bell struck ten, and -such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole edifice, -notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. I need not say, -no mob obstructed my passage. I ran through a succession of streets, -free and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs of -Wiltshire. The voices of my servants conversing before the hotel were -the only sounds which the great "Place de Meir" echoed. - -This characteristic stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back -upon those scenes of outcry and horror which filled London but a week or -two ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and to the environs -of the capital, but haunted our streets at mid-day. Here, I could -wander over an entire city; stray by the port, and venture through the -most obscure alleys, without a single apprehension; without beholding a -sky red and portentous with the light of houses on fire, or hearing the -confusion of shouts and groans mingled with the reports of artillery. I -can assure you, I think myself very fortunate to have escaped the -possibility of another such week of desolation, and to be peaceably -lulled at Antwerp. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.--Monsieur Van - Lencren's collection.--The Canon Knyff's house and gallery of - paintings.--The Canon himself.--His domestic felicity.--Revisit the - cathedral.--Grand service in honour of St. John the - Baptist.--Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist's astonishing flashes - of execution.--Evening service in the cathedral.--Magical effect of - the music of Jomelli.--Blighted avenues.--Slow travelling.--Enter - the United Provinces.--Level scenery.--Chinese prospects.--Reach - Meerdyke.--Arrival at the Hague. - - -Antwerp, 23rd June, 1780. - -After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all the cabinets -of pictures in Antwerp. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren's, who -possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, -with the rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heaven forbid I -should enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count the -dew-drops upon the most spangled of Van Huysum's flower-pieces, or the -pimples on their possessor's countenance; a very good sort of man, -indeed; but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered. - -My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought me into -the court-yard of the Canon Knyff's habitation; a snug abode, well -furnished with ample fauteuils and orthodox couches. After viewing the -rooms on the first floor, we mounted an easy staircase, and entered an -ante-chamber, which they who delight in the imitations of art rather -than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the portraits of -tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but it must be confessed, -that amongst these uninteresting performances are dispersed a few -striking Berghems and agreeable Polembergs. In the gallery adjoining, -two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit observation; and a large Teniers, -representing the Hermit St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious set of -imps and leering devilesses, is well calculated to display the whimsical -buffoonery of a Dutch imagination. - -I was enjoying this strange medley, when the canon made his appearance; -and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to Flemish ideas. In -my humble opinion, his reverence looked a little muddled or so; and, to -be sure, the description I afterwards heard of his style of living -favours not a little my surmises. This worthy dignitary, what with his -private fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a spanking -revenue, which he contrives to get rid of in the joys of the table and -the encouragement of the pencil. - -His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of so -comfortable an income; the canon being upon a very social footing with -them all. At four o'clock in the afternoon, a select party attend him in -his coach to an ale-house about a league from the city; where a table, -well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, waits their arrival. -After enjoying this rural fare, the same equipage conducts them back -again, by all accounts, much faster than they came; which may well be -conceived, as the coachman is one of the brightest wits of the -entertainment. - -My compliments, alas! were not much appreciated, you may suppose, by -this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemberg, and -offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; but, as I -could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyff to expand, I made one of my best -bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic felicity. - -In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament of -which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, and so -faithfully imitated that I dare say no Ass could see it unmoved. At -length, it was lawful to return home; and as I positively refused -visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord of -Rucker, and played myself quite out of the Netherlands. - -It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took advantage -of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of starlings had -just pitched on one of the pinnacles of the tower, whose faint chirpings -were the only sounds that broke the evening stillness. Not a human form -appeared at any of the windows around; no footsteps were audible in the -opening before the grand entrance; and during the half hour I spent in -walking to and fro, one solitary Franciscan was the only creature that -accosted me. From him I learned that a grand service was to be performed -next day in honour of St. John the Baptist, and the best music in -Flanders would be called forth on the occasion, so I determined to stay -one day longer at Antwerp. - -Having taken this resolution, I availed myself of a special invitation -from Mynheer Van den Bosch, the first organist of the place, and sat -next to him in his lofty perch during the celebration of high mass. The -service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and examined the innumerable -chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer Van den Bosch thundered and -lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops. - -When the first flashes of execution had a little subsided, I took an -opportunity of surveying the celebrated Descent from the Cross. This has -ever been esteemed the master-piece of Rubens, which, large as it is, -they pretend here that Old Lewis Baboon[2] offered to cover with gold. A -swingeing St. Christopher, fording a brook with a child on his -shoulders, cannot fail of attracting attention. This colossal personage -is painted on the folding-doors which defend the grand effort of art -just mentioned from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has selected a very -proper subject to display the gigantic boldness of his pencil. - -After I had most dutifully surveyed all his productions in this church, -I walked half over Antwerp in quest of St. John's relics, which were -moving about in procession. If my eyes were not much regaled by the -saint's magnificence, my ears were greatly affected in the evening by -the music which sang forth his praises. The cathedral was crowded with -devotees, and perfumed with incense. A motet, in the lofty style of -Jomelli, performed with taste and feeling, transported me to Italian -climates; and I grieved, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think -that I had still so many tramontane regions to pass before I could in -effect reach that classic country. Finding it was in vain to expect -preternatural interposition, and perceiving no conscious angel or -Loretto-vehicle waiting in some dark consecrated corner to bear me away, -I humbly returned to my hotel. - -Monday, June 26th.--We were again upon the pav, rattling and jumbling -along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. The plagues of Egypt -have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, by the -appearance of the oak trees: not a leaf have the insects spared. After -having had the displeasure of seeing no other objects for several hours -but these blasted rows, the scene changed to vast tracts of level -country, buried in sand and smothered with heath; the particular -character of which I had but too good an opportunity of intimately -knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us without being once -out of breath. - -Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, and -had all their glory of canals, treck-schuyts, and windmills, before us. -The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and the lively -green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with the ideas I had -formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was not diminished upon -viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled meadows, with -stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable barges gliding -busily along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; it improved each -moment, as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, at sun-set, not one -single cloud obscured the horizon. Several storks were parading by the -water-side, amongst flags and osiers; and, as far as the eye could -reach, large herds of beautifully spotted cattle were enjoying the -plenty of their pastures. I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or -Ning Po, till we reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the -current recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, therefore, -as I left my carriage and entered my inn, the clouds of tobacco which -filled every one of its apartments dispersed my Chinese imaginations, -and reduced me in an instant to Holland. - -Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell you that -its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe would be -nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass over the -village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent of pottery, -and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague. - -As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy the -shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling, and proceeded to the -village on the sea coast, which terminates the perspective. Almost every -cottage door being open to catch the air, I had an opportunity of -looking into their neat apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, all -glisten with cleanliness; the country people were drinking tea, after -the fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and contrivances. - -I left them to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast azure -expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I remained there a -full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of different sizes were in -sight, the last sunbeam purpling their sails, and casting a path of -innumerable brilliants athwart the waves. What would I not have given to -follow this shining track! It might have conducted me straight to those -fortunate western climates, those happy isles which you are so fond of -painting, and I of dreaming about. But, unluckily, this passage was the -only one my neighbours the Dutch were ignorant of. It is true they have -islands rich in spices, and blessed with the sun's particular attention, -but which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no means -fortunate. - -Abandoning therefore all hopes of this adventurous voyage, I returned -towards the Hague, and looked into a country-house of the late Count -Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets by no means resembling, one should -conjecture, the gardens of the Hesperides. But, considering that the -whole group of trees, terraces, and verdure were in a manner created out -of hills of sand, the place may claim some portion of merit. The walks -and alleys have all the stiffness and formality which our ancestors -admired; but the intermediate spaces, being dotted with clumps and -sprinkled with flowers, are imagined in Holland to be in the English -style. An Englishman ought certainly to behold it with partial eyes, -since every possible attempt has been made to twist it into the taste of -his country. - -I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count Bentinck's -tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized -over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. All the -way home, I reflected upon the unyielding perseverance of the Dutch, who -raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the bosom of the -waters. I had, almost at the same moment, a whimsical proof of the -thrifty turn of this people; for just entering the town I met an -unwieldy fellow--not ill clad--airing his carcase in a one-dog chair. -The poor animal puffed and panted, Mynheer smoked, and gaped around him -with the most blessed indifference. - - - - -LETTER III. - - The Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings.--Temptation of St. - Anthony, by Breughel.--Exquisite pictures by Berghem and - Wouvermans.--Mean garrets stored with inestimable productions of - the Indies.--Enamelled flasks of oriental essences.--Vision of the - wardrobe of Hecuba.--Disenchantment.--Cabinet of natural - history.--A day dream.--A delicious morsel.--Dinner at Sir Joseph - Yorke's.--Two honourable boobies.--The Great Wood.--Parterres of - the Greffier Fagel.--Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.--Fishy - locality of Dutch banquetting rooms.--Derivation of the inhabitants - of Holland.--Origin and use of enormous galligaskins.--Escape from - damp alleys and lazy waters. - - -30th June, 1780. - -I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings -and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst the pictures which -amused me the most is a temptation of the holy hermit St. Anthony, by -Hell-fire Breughel, who has shown himself right worthy of the title; for -a more diabolical variety of imps never entered the human imagination. -Breughel has made his saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies -and creeping things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, would -have lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of steel and -fiery turrets glare on every side, whence issue a band of junior devils. -These seem highly entertained with pinking poor Anthony, and whispering, -I warrant ye, filthy tales in his ear. Nothing can be more rueful than -the patient's countenance; more forlorn than his beard; more piteous -than his eye, forming a strong contrast to the pert winks and insidious -glances of his persecutors; some of whom, I need not mention, are -evidently of the female kind. - -But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad company -so long; and had I a moment to spare, you should be introduced to a -better set in this gallery, where some of the most exquisite Berghems -and Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for hours. I do not think -you would look much at the Polembergs; there are but two, and one of -them is very far from capital; in short, I am in a great hurry; so -pardon me, Carlo Cignani! if I do not do justice to your merit; and -forgive me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute of -admiration. - -Mynheer Van Something was as eager to precipitate my step as I was to -get out of the damps and perplexities of Sorgvliet yesterday evening; -so, mounting a creaking staircase, he led me to a suite of garretlike -apartments; which, considering the meanness of their exterior, I was -rather surprised to find stored with some of the most valuable -productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, models of -Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, and Japan -caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. The most pleasing -of all its baubles in my estimation was a large coffer of most elaborate -workmanship, containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, enough to -perfume a zennana. If disagreeable fumes, as I mentioned before, -dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils have doubtless the power of -raising them; for, whilst I scented their fragrancy, I could have -persuaded myself, I was in the wardrobe of Hecuba,-- - - "Where treasured odours breathed a costly scent." - -I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of -matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began to rise upon -my sight, when a sweltering Dutch porpoise approaching to make me a low -bow, his complaisance proved full as notorious as Satan's, when, -according to Catholic legends, he took leave of Luther, that -disputatious heresiarch. No spell can resist a fumigation of this -nature; away fled palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, &c. I looked up, and -lo! I was in a garret. As poetry is but too often connected with this -lofty situation, you will not wonder much at my flight. Being a little -recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the cabinets -of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober senses. A grave -hippopotamus contributed a good deal to their re-establishment. - -The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me another -dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, on the -summits of Haynang and Nan-Hoa;[3] but the jargon which was gabbling all -around me prevented the excursion, and I summoned a decent share of -attention for that ample chamber which has been appropriated to bottled -snakes and pickled foetuses. - -After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no very -new or singular objects can be selected in this. One of the rarest -articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human head, most -dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have been bestowed by -amateurs on this performance. A German professor could hardly believe it -artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set his teeth in this -delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. My faith was less -hazardously established; and I moved off, under the conviction that art -had never produced anything more horridly natural. - -It was one o'clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; and another -hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions of stuffed -birds and marine productions. At length my departure was allowable; and -I went to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke's, with all nations and languages. -Amongst the company were two honourable boobies and their governor, all -from Ireland. The youngest, after plying me with a succession of -innocent questions, wished to be informed where I proposed spending the -carnival. "At Tunis," was my answer. The questioner, not in the least -surprised, then asked who was to sing there? To which I replied, -"Farinelli." - -This settled the business to our mutual satisfaction; so after coffee I -strayed to the Great Wood, which, considering that it almost touches the -town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. Not a branch being -ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches retain their natural -luxuriance. In some places their straight boles rise sixty feet without -a bough; in others, they are bent fantastically over the alleys, which -turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. I followed them with -eagerness and curiosity; sometimes deviating from my path amongst tufts -of fern and herbage. - -In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and -windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst contemplating -the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers and grasses -below. Hares and rabbits scudded by me while I sat; and the birds were -chirping their evening song. Their preservation does credit to the -police of the country, which is so exact and well regulated as to suffer -no outrage within the precincts of this extensive wood, the depth and -thickness of which might otherwise seem calculated to favour half the -sins of a capital. - -Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst -the beeches till late in the evening; then taking the nearest path, I -suffered myself, though not without regret, to be conducted out of this -fresh sylvan scene to the dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier -Fagel. Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one -side; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the -other. These sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United -Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour -to conquer their filthiness. - -But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to -mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their -odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be inclined to -this supposition by the numerous banquetting-rooms and pleasure-houses -which hang directly above their surface, and seem calculated on purpose -to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their -country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), one -should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their -pavilions in such situations; but, after all, I am not greatly -surprised at the fishiness of their site, since very slight authority -would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water, and the -ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oysterishness of -eye and flabbiness of complexion, are almost proofs sufficient of this -aquatic descent: and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins -as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a -flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphinlike -termination? - -Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the -borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks to -a vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. There was no -temptation to puzzle myself in such a labyrinth; so taking advantage of -the lateness of the hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises of -returning at the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless -scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser and less -curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the Hague. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Leave the Hague.--Leyden.--Wood near Haerlem.--Waddling - fishermen.--Enter the town.--The great fair.--Riot and - uproar.--Confusion of tongues.--Mine hostess. - - -Haerlem, July 1st, 1780. - -The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled -along a shady road for about an hour, when down sunk the carriage into a -sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into a -profound repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I awoke, -we were rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable in -honour of this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung and -said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, and -smoked in its gardens. Let us get out of it as fast as we can, and -breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem. - -Here we arrived just as day declined: hay was making in the fields, and -perfumed the country far and wide with its reviving fragrance. I -promised myself a sentimental saunter in the groves, took up Gesner, and -began to have pretty pastoral ideas as I walked forward; but instead of -nymphs dispersed over the meadows, I met a gang of waddling fishermen. -Letting fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherdesses, I jumped -into the carriage, and was driven off to the town. Every avenue to it -swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed to announce that -something extraordinary was going forward. Upon inquiry I found it was -the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much farther, our -carriage was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters of all -denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of little -illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys and -looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we reached our inn, -and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last we were -accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has been -dedicated to you. - -You will not be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since I tell -you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. At this -very moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all regular -proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, and -show-boxes under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, -outrageous Italians, frisking minstrels; _tambours de basque_ at every -corner; myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing -German couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed, -nothing to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while provoking -their appetite; squeaking chamber-maids in the galleries above, and mine -hostess below, half inclined to receive the golden solicitations of -certain beauties for admittance, but positively refusing them the moment -some creditable personage appears; eleven o'clock strikes; half the -lights in the fair are extinguished; scruples grow faint; and mammon -gains the victory. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Amsterdam.--The road to Utrecht.--Country-houses and gardens.--Neat - enclosures.--Comfortable parties.--Ladies and Lapdogs.--Arrival at - Utrecht.--Moravian establishment--The woods.--Shops.--Celestial - love.--Musical Sempstresses.--Return to Utrecht. - - -Utrecht, 2d July, 1780. - -Well, thank Heaven! Amsterdam is behind us; how I got thither signifies -not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was -hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the odours, exhaling -from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale the nose of a -Hottentot. - -Under these pungent circumstances we entered the great city. The -Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither as -fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, -magnificently coved, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That -despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined -with the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt -statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite -astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no -other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and -flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid's work-bag. -Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the -neatness and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of -flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of -consequential personages were solacing themselves after the heat of the -day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable party dozing -over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an -avenue but swarmed with female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at -their sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities. - -But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, -and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my -attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Ziest, -in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation of -Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy -fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, -amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate -protection of their pious brethren. - -Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built round -with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and one ragged -goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, perhaps, for -the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in -solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished with -gew-gaws and trinkets said to be manufactured by the female part of the -society. Much cannot be boasted of their handy-works: I expressed a wish -to see some of these industrious fair ones; but, upon receiving no -answer, found this was a subject of which there was no discourse. - -Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance -of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued -very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught a -glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns as they -sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great -inclination to approach this busy group, but the roll of a brother's eye -corrected me. - -Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated -buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my -expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall -esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so hasty a -narrative. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.--Glimpse of a dingy grove.--Melancholy - saunterers.--Dusseldorf Gallery.--Nocturnal depredators.--Arrival - at Cologne.--Shrine of the Three Wise Sovereigns.--Peregrinations - of their beatified bones.--Road to Bonn.--Delights of - Catholicism.--Azure mountains.--Visionary palaces. - - -We arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the mouldering -turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a candle and -lantern. An old woman at the gate asked our names (for not a single -soldier appeared); and after traversing a number of superannuated -streets without perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his -Paladins, we procured comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and -slept most unheroically sound, till it was time to set forward for -Dusseldorf. - -July 8th.--As we were driven out of the town, I caught a glimpse of a -grove, hemmed in by dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers were -sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan -greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like unhappy -souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away their -existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a party behind; -and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads and rumbling -pavements, crossed the Rhine and travelled on to Dusseldorf. - -Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers to -stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more indifferent -houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a living creature -moving about them; and at night a complete regiment of bugs "marked me -for their own." Thus I lay, at once the seat of war and the conquest of -these detestable animals, till early in the morning (Sunday, July 9th), -when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, opened the ivory gates of -his empire, and freed his votary from the most unconscionable vermin -ever engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast asleep; and remained -quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till it was time to survey the -cabinet. - -This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains some -valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most boasted of -is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three enormous -representations of the last day, where an innumerable host of sinners -are exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of the devil's -tail. The woes of several fat luxurious souls are rendered in the -highest gusto. Satan's dispute with some brawny concubines, whom he is -lugging off in spite of all their resistance, cannot be too much admired -by those who approve this class of subjects, and think such strange -embroglios in the least calculated to raise a sublime or a religious -idea. - -For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to -contemplate a holy family by Camillo Procaccini, in another apartment. -The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure more graceful -than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an inspired -countenance or celestial features, it was here: but to attempt conveying -in words what the pencil alone can express, would be only reversing the -absurdity of many a master in the gallery who aims to represent those -ideas by the pencil which language alone is able to describe. Should -you admit this opinion, you will not be surprised at my passing such a -multitude of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you out of -the cabinet without deluging ten pages with criticisms in the style of -the ingenious Lady Miller. - -As I had spent so much time in the gallery, the day was too far advanced -to think of travelling to Cologne; I was therefore obliged to put myself -once more under the dominion of the most inveterate bugs in the -universe. This government, like many others, made but an indifferent use -of its power, and the subject suffering accordingly was extremely -rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to Cologne. - -July 10th.--Clouds of dust hindered my making any remarks on the -exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance be not more -beautiful from without than within, I defy the most courteous compiler -of geographical dictionaries to launch forth very warmly in its praise. -But of what avail are stately palaces, broad streets, or airy markets, -to a town which can boast of such a treasure as the bodies of those -three wise sovereigns who were star-led to Bethlehem? Is not this -circumstance enough to procure it every kind of respect? I really -believe so, from the pious and dignified contentment of its inhabitants. -They care not a hair of an ass's ear whether their houses be gloomy and -ill-contrived, their pavements overgrown with weeds, and their shops -half choked up with filthiness, provided the carcasses of Gaspar, -Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved with proper decorum. Nothing, -to be sure, can be richer than the shrine which contains these precious -relics. I paid my devotions before it the moment I arrived; this step -was inevitable: had I omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have -cursed me for a Pagan. - -Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from their -native country? I thought them snug under some Arabian cupola ten feet -deep in spice; but who can tell what is to become of one a few ages -hence? Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco may be canonized some future -day in Lapland? I asked, of course, how in the name of miracles they -came hither? but found no story of a supernatural conveyance. It seems -that great collectress of relics, the holy Empress Helena, first routed -them out: then they were packed off to Rome. King Alaric, having no -grace, bundled them down to Milan; where they remained till it pleased -Heaven to inspire an ancient archbishop with the fervent wish of -depositing them at Cologne; there these skeletons were taken into the -most especial consideration, crowned with jewels and filigreed with -gold. Never were skulls more elegantly mounted; and I doubt whether -Odin's buffet could exhibit so fine an assortment. The chapel containing -these beatified bones is placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. -Several golden lamps gleam along the polished marbles with which it is -adorned, and afford just light enough to read the following monkish -inscription:-- - - "CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM: - EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM." - -After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations of -the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather -surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, but -covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. Many an -impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic -bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of saints and -evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed assembly (for -the shrine, they say, was formed under her auspices) surpasses my -comprehension. Perhaps you will say, it is no great matter; and give me -a hint to move out of the chapel, lest the three kings and their star -should lead me quite out of my way. Very well; I think I had better stop -in time, to tell you, without further excursion, that we set off after -dinner for Bonn. - -Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, and -scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all the -delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share of my -attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which bounded -our view, and in thought was already transported to their summits. Vast -and wild were the prospects I surveyed from my imaginary exaltation, and -innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Under their -capricious influence my fancy built castles and capitols in the clouds -with all the extravaganza of Piranesi. The magnificence and variety of -my arial structures hindered my thinking the way long. I was walking -with a crowd of phantoms upon their terraces, when the carriage made a -halt. Immediately descending the innumerable flights of steps which -divide such lofty edifices from the lower world, I entered the inn at -Bonn, and was shown into an apartment which commands the chief front of -the Elector's residence. You may guess how contemptible it appeared to -one just returned from palaces bedecked with all the pomp of visionary -splendour. In other respects I saw it at a very favourable moment, for -the twilight, shading the whole faade, concealed its plastered walls -and painted columns. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Borders of the Rhine.--Richly picturesque road from Bonn to - Andernach.--Scheme for a floating village.--Coblentz.--A winding - valley.--The river Lahn.--Ems.--The planet.--A supposed - Apparition.--A little sequestered Paradise. - - -July 11, 1780. - -Let those who delight in picturesque country repair to the borders of -the Rhine, and follow the road from Bonn to Coblentz. In some places it -is suspended like a cornice above the waters; in others, it winds behind -lofty steeps and broken acclivities, shaded by woods and clothed with an -endless variety of plants and flowers. Several green paths lead amongst -this vegetation to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the -foundation of abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising -above the cliffs, impress passengers with ideas of their grandeur, that -might probably vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing to lose any -prejudice in their favour, I kept a respectful distance whenever I left -my carriage, and walked on the banks of the river. - -Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange -morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet in -length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great many -people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at their doors, -whilst their children played among the water-lilies that bloomed in -abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from one of these -aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains beyond, and added -not a little to their effect. - -Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an hour -contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy walnuts; -and should like extremely to build a moveable village, people it with my -friends, and so go floating about from island to island, and from one -woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you dislike such a party? I -am much deceived, or you would be the first to explore the shady -promontories beneath which we should be wafted along. - -But I do not think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to -take up our night's lodging, much to your taste. It is a mean, dirty -assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with -wooden galleries, in the delectable taste of old St. Giles's. Above, on -a rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable -for nothing except situation. I did not bestow many looks on this -structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to Mayence -conducted us. - -July 12.--Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast, irregular -range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst downs purpled -with thyme and bounded by forests. This sort of prospect extending for -several leagues, I walked on the turf, and inhaled with avidity the -fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till I came to a steep slope -overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs in blossom. A -cloudless sky and bright sunshine made me rather loth to move on; but -the charms of the landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward. - -I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, inclosed -by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the thickest -woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, reflected the -impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy that I was -determined to be better acquainted with it. For this purpose we -descended by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the best of our way -on the banks of the Lahn (for so is the river called) came suddenly upon -the town of Ems, famous in mineral story; where, finding very good -lodgings, we took up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds -and mountains. - -After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the moon -journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed over the -face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every mountain cast -its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights twinkled afar off -on the hills; they burnt in silence. All were asleep, except a female -figure in white, with glow-worms shining in her hair. She kept moving -disconsolately about; sometimes I heard her sigh; and if apparitions -sigh, this must have been an apparition. - -July 13.--The pure air of the morning invited me abroad at an early -hour. Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down the stream, and landed -on a sloping meadow, level with the waters, and newly mown. Heaps of hay -still lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on every side this -little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! I could encamp here -for months, and never be tired. Not a day would pass by without -discovering some untrodden pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might -remain among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. I would give you, -and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else should be -conscious even of its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, I rambled -about the meads, scarcely aware which way I was going; sometimes a -spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange fancies. -Between both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never have found -my boat again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting -fossils on the cliffs, directed me to it. - -When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive that I -had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a few wood -strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet received into -the realms of Ginnistan. - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A - Storm--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village of - Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited plains on its - margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the Town.--Pomposities of the Town - House. - - -Ems, July 14. - -I have just made a discovery, that this place is as full of idlers and -water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse Darmstadt can -desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its salubrious fountains. -I protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, so entirely was I taken -up with the rocks and meadows; and conceived no chance of meeting either -card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both however abound at Ems, -unconscious of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally -insensible to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring -barren crags and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, as -a clumsy lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously -observed to me; nor could they form the least conception of any pleasure -there was in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving -into woods and recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there -were neither card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no _jambon -de Mayence_ in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest -delights, to be met with in the commonest taverns. - -To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately -left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and -weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I -turned my back upon this polite assembly, when _Monsieur -l'Administrateur des bains_, a fine pompous fellow, who had been _maitre -d'htel_ in a great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint -me, I suppose, that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince -Orloff, "_avec sa crande maidresse, son shamperlan, et guelgues tames -donneur_:" moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself -after his laborious employments at the Court of St. Petersburgh, and -expected (_grace aux eaux_!) to return to the domains his august -sovereign had lately bestowed upon him, perfectly regenerated. - -Wishing Monsieur d'Orloff all possible success, I should have left the -company at a greater distance, had not a violent shower stopped my -career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing -heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a -gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close -foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the clouds -assumed a more formidable aspect; thunder rolled along the distant -cliffs, and torrents began to run down the steeps. At intervals a blue -flash of lightning discovered the agitated surface of the stream, and -two or three scared women rushing through the storm, and calling all the -saints in Paradise to their assistance. - -Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so -brilliantly on the folly of ascending mountains, bounced into the room, -and regaled my ears with a woeful narration of murders which had -happened the other day on the precise road I was to follow the next -morning. - -"Sir," said he, "your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the left -you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the smallest -alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious -wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a -regiment; a little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest -land, the roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many -minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There lurk the most savage -banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince of Orange's -proscription; and so desperate, that if they make an attack, you can -expect no mercy. Should you venture through this hazardous district -to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet a company of people who -have just left the town to search for the mangled bodies of their -relations; but, for Heaven's sake, sir, if you value your life, do not -suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous regions, -however picturesque their appearance." - -It was almost nine o'clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me -with terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not -under the most agreeable impressions. - -Early in the morning we set forward; and proceeding along the edge of -the precipices I had been forewarned of, journeyed through the forest -which had so recently been the scene of murders and depredations. At -length, after winding several hours amongst its dreary avenues, we -emerged into open daylight. A few minutes more brought us safe to the -village of Wiesbaden, where we slept in peace and tranquillity. - -July 16.--Our apprehensions being entirely dispersed, we rose much -refreshed; and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled -gaily over the plain in which Manheim is situated. The sun set before we -arrived there. - -Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and -fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared -conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity of -the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we could -hardly cross a street without hearing the sound of music. A scene of -such happiness and refinement formed a most agreeable contrast to the -dismalities we had left behind. All around was security and contentment -in their most engaging attire. - -July 20.--After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a green -moor, of vast extent, with insulated woods and villages; here and there -the Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon -its banks. The fields in the neighbourhood of the town were overspread -with cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks, which convey -them down the great river in twelve days to Vienna, and thence, through -Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish empire. - -You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than those which -gilded our horizon. For ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth -unlimited levels interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which -appeared a long series of mountains. Such were the very spots for -youthful games and exercises, open spaces for the race, and spreading -shades to skreen the spectators. - -Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery Savannahs -in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians -repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and -lead their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies -leave on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain -of future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and -dances upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of -these visionary plains rises the abode of Ateantsic, encircled by choirs -of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the sound of spears as they -ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite attendants, long -separated from them while on earth, are restored again in this ethereal -region, and skim freely over the vast level space; now, hailing one -group of beloved friends; and now, another. Mortals newly ushered by -death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see the -long-lost objects of their affection advancing to meet them, whilst -flights of familiar birds, the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once -more attend their progress, and the shades of their faithful dogs seem -coursing each other below. The whole region is filled with low murmurs -and tinkling sounds, which increase in melody as its new denizens -proceed, who, at length, unable to resist the thrilling music, spring -forward in ecstasies to join the eternal round. - -A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst my -eyes wandered over the plains, which imagination widened and extended in -proportion as the twilight prevailed, and so fully abandoned was I to -the illusion of the moment, that I did not for several minutes perceive -our arrival at Gnzburg; whence we proceeded the next morning (July 21) -to Augsburg, and rambled about this renowned city till evening. The -colossal paintings on the walls of almost every considerable building -gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the score of novelty. - -Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we -found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of -Augustus; which way soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable -edifice, or marble basin into which several groups of sculptured -river-gods pour a profusion of waters. These stately fountains and -bronze statues, the extraordinary size and loftiness of the buildings, -the towers rising in perspective, and the Doric portal of the -town-house, answered in some measure the idea Montfaucon gives us of -the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter -attempts a representation of Troy or Babylon, and displays in his -back-ground those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, -or some such city, may easily be traced. Frequently a corner of Antwerp -discovers itself; and sometimes, above a Corinthian portico, rises a -Gothic spire: just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue of -Augustus, under which I remained till the concierge came, who was to -open the gates of the town-house and show me its magnificent hall. - -I wished for you exceedingly when ascending a flight of a hundred steps; -I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and crowned -with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five more -entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii leaning -over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each above -thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole -city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars, -cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly tinged -with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with emblematical -paintings and innumerable canopies and pendents of carved work, casts a -very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should not be surprised at a -burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity in such a room. - -I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended -the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if on the point of giving -audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a high festival, and -half the inhabitants of Augsburg were gathered together in the opening -before their hall; the greatest numbers, especially the women, still -exhibiting the very dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed -upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with as -much silent respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of -Israel. When I got home, an execrable sourcroutish supper was served up -to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal style, and soon convinced myself -I was no longer Solomon. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.--Grand fair at Munich.--The - Elector's country palace.--Court - Ladies.--Fountains.--Costume.--Garden and tea-room.--Hoydening - festivities there.--The Palace and Chapel.--Gorgeous riches of the - latter.--St. Peter's thumb.--The Elector's collection of - pictures.--The Churches.--Hubbub and confusion of the Fair.--Wild - tract of country.--Village of Wolfrathshausen.--Perpetual - forests.--A Tempest.--A night at a cottage. - - -July 22. - -Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! for preserving such extensive woods of -fir in their dominions as shade over the chief part of the road from -Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned city, I cannot boast of the -scenery changing to advantage. Instead of flourishing woods and verdure, -we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified by fields of withering -barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally across them; now and then a -stagnant pool, and sometimes a dunghill, by way of regale. However, the -wild rocks of the Tyrol terminate the view, and to them imagination may -fly, and ramble amidst springs and lilies of her own creation. I speak -from authority, having had the delight of anticipating an evening in -this romantic style. - -Tuesday next is the grand fair at Munich, with horse-races and -junketings: a piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the -moment we entered the town, good-natured creatures from all quarters -advised us to get out of it; since traders and harlequins had filled -every corner of the place, and there was not a lodging to be procured. -The inns, to be sure, were hives of industrious animals sorting their -merchandise, and preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite of -difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment. - -July 23.--We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, the Elector's -country palace, the bosquets, jets-d'eaux, and parterres of which are -the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a glitter -with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every pore. Beds of -poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and other flame-coloured flowers, -border the edge of the walks, which extend till the perspective appears -to meet and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in party-coloured raiment. -The queen of Golconda's gardens in a French opera are scarcely more -gaudy and artificial. Unluckily too, the evening was fine, and the sun -so powerful that we were half roasted before we could cross the great -avenue and enter the thickets, which barely conceal a very splendid -hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. Trevor, and a party of -fashionable Bavarians. - -Amongst the ladies was Madame la Comtesse, I forget who, a production of -the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de Baumgarten, who has -the honour of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses -stepping into a car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed and -explored alley after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, having -viewed Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and -Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a variety -of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly did their best -(for many were set agoing on purpose) I cannot say I greatly admired -them. - -The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as -swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked exactly like -the fine people one sees represented on Dresden porcelain. Thus we kept -walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew up and -conveyed us to Mr. Trevor's. - -Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden -and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till -morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the waltz, another amuse -themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That despatched, out -they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity and liveliness I -little expected to have found in Bavaria. After turning round and round, -with a rapidity that is quite astounding to an English dancer, the music -changes to a slower movement, and then follows a succession of zig-zag -minuets, performed by old and young, straight and crooked, noble and -plebeian, all at once, from one end of the room to the other. Tallow -candles snuffing and stinking, dishes changing at the risk of showering -down upon you their savoury contents, heads scratching, and all sorts of -performances going forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and -bassoons, snorting, grunting, and whining with peculiar emphasis; now -fast, now slow, just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the -ceremonial of this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and -privilege is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, -the rooms are open, and Monday is generally far advanced before they are -deserted. If good humour and coarse merriment are all that people -desire, here they are to be found in perfection. - -July 24.--Custom condemned us to visit the palace, which glares with -looking-glass, gilding, and furbelowed flounces of cut velvet, most -sumptuously fringed and spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer -than anything Croesus ever possessed, let them say what they will. Not -a corner but shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded -with jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and the richest -gems under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius[4] thinks such -supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the honour, and had much -rather have trodden the turf of the mountains. Mammon would never have -taken his eyes off the pavement; mine soon left the contemplation of it -and fixed on St. Peter's thumb, enshrined with a degree of elegance, and -adorned by some malapert enthusiast with several of the most delicate -antique cameos I ever beheld; the subjects, Ledas and sleeping Venuses, -are a little too pagan, one should think, for an apostle's finger. - -From this precious repository we were conducted through the public -garden to a large hall, where part of the Elector's collection is piled -up, till a gallery can be finished for its reception. It was matter of -great favour to view, in this state, the pieces that compose it, a very -imperfect one too, since some of the best were under operation. But I -would not upon any account have missed the sight of Rubens's Massacre of -the Innocents. Such expressive horrors were never yet transferred to -canvass. Moloch himself might have gazed at them with pleasure. - -After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much -tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the -continual repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy upon -you! However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, and -to-morrow we shall begin to mount the cliffs of the Tyrol; but, do not -be afraid of any long-winded epistles from their summits: I shall be too -well employed in ascending them. - -July 25.--The noise of the people thronging to the fair did not allow me -to slumber very long in the morning. When I got up, every street was -crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and driving their -bargains in all the guttural hoarseness of the Bavarian dialect. Vast -quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops as we passed to -the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats set half the grandams and -infants in the place cackling with felicity. - -Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, we -entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely -park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where we stopped -to give our horses some refreshment, and were pestered with swarms of -flies, most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast upon -sugared tarts and honied gingerbread. - -The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to a -narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under which -lies scattered the village of Wolfrathshausen, consisting of several -remarkably large cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries -projecting from them. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of these -complicated edifices, nor more solid than their construction; many of -them looked as if they had braved the torrents which fell from the -mountains a century ago; and, if one may judge from the hoary appearance -of the inhabitants, here are patriarchs coeval with their mansions. -Orchards of cherry-trees cover the steeps above the village, which to -our certain knowledge produce most admirable fruit. - -Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into a -grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing we had yet beheld. -There seemed no end to these forests, except where little irregular -spots of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we gained an -eminence it was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated -with meadows and glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of -sweet-scented flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the mountain-ash, -glowing with scarlet berries: and beyond, rise hills, rocks and -mountains, piled upon one another, and fringed with fir to their topmost -acclivities. Perhaps the Norwegian forests alone, equal these in -grandeur and extent. Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey -such vast ideas. There, the woods climb only half way up their ascents, -which then are circumscribed by snows: here no boundaries are set to -their progress, and the mountains, from base to summit, display rich -unbroken masses of vegetation. - -As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with thunder, -obscured the horizon, whilst flashes of lightning startled our horses, -whose snorts and stampings resounded through the woods. The impending -tempests gave additional gloom to the firs, and we travelled several -miles almost in total darkness. One moment the clouds began to fleet, -and a faint gleam promised serener intervals, but the next was all -blackness and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon the -valley, and in a short time the torrents beginning to swell, raged with -such violence as to be forded with difficulty. Twilight drew on, just as -we had passed the most terrible; then ascending a mountain, whose pines -and birches rustled with the storm, we saw a little lake below. A deep -azure haze veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours concealed the -cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities hung a few -transparent clouds; the rays of a struggling sunset streamed on the -surface of the waters, tingeing the brow of a green promontory with -tender pink. - -I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several -minutes, till this apparition faded away. Looking round, I shuddered at -a craggy mountain, clothed with forests and almost perpendicular, that -was absolutely to be surmounted before we could arrive at Walchen-see. -No house, not even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, -and penetrate these awful groves. At length, after some perils but no -adventure, we saw lights gleam upon the shore of the Walchen lake, which -served to direct us to a cottage, where we passed the night, and were -soon lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Mittenwald.--Mountain chapels.--Saint Anna's young and fair - worshippers.--Road to Inspruck.--Maximilian's tomb.--Vast range of - prospects.--A mountain torrent.--Schnberg. - - -July 26. - -The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was spangling the -surface of the lake, which spreads itself between steeps of wood, -crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of -contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of the -lake, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the water, -tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and tranquil. -Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every outlet; and, no -village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress an idea of more -than European solitude. - -From the shore of Walchen-see, our road led us straight through arching -groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of a -rock covered with daphnes of various species, and worn by the course of -torrents into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of -shattered cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and -rapid streams hurrying between their intermingled trunks and branches. -As yet, no hut appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human -existence. - -After a few hours' journey through the wilderness, we began to discover -a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence it arose, -composed of planks, and reared on the very brink of a precipice. Piles -of cloven fir were dispersed before the entrance, on a little spot of -verdure browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with hoary whiskers, -his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or three beautiful children -with hair neatly braided, played around him; and a young woman dressed -in a short robe and Polish-looking bonnet, peeped out of a wicket -window. - -I was so much struck with the appearance of this sequestered family, -that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to their cottage and sought -some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst the -children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black-eyed girl -succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled -bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. I -reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast on the -turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable grace. The only -thing I wanted was language to express my gratitude; and it was this -deficiency which made me quit them so soon. The old man seemed visibly -concerned at my departure; and his children followed me a long way down -the rocks, talking in a dialect which passes all understanding, and -waving their hands to bid me adieu. - -I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we -entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every -age and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing branches; -others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. Even at noonday, I -thought we should never have found our way out. - -At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives opening -on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by hills, divided into -irregular inclosures, where many herds were grazing. A rivulet flows -along the pastures beneath; and after winding through the village of -Walgau, loses itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs and precipices -which rise above the cultivated slopes and frame in this happy pastoral -region. All the plain was in sunshine, the sky blue, the heights -illuminated, except one rugged peak with spires of rock, shaped not -unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, and wrapped, like that sacred -mount, in clouds and darkness. At the base of this tremendous mass lies -the hamlet of Mittenwald, surrounded by thickets and banks of verdure, -and watered by frequent springs, whose sight and murmurs were so -reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not think of -leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenwald the whole evening. - -Our inn had long airy galleries, with pleasant balconies fronting the -mountain; in one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the rills, and -cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes above. The -clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half visible, before we -ended our repast, every moment discovering some inaccessible cliff or -summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun, with pale -golden colours. These appearances filled me with such delight and with -such a train of romantic associations, that I left the table and ran to -an open field beyond the huts and gardens to gaze in solitude and catch -the vision before it dissolved away. You, if any human being is able, -may conceive true ideas of the glowing vapours sailing over the pointed -rocks, and brightening them in their passage with amber light. - -When all was faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look around -me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover covered its -surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs and the -sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, broken into a -variety of glens and precipices, open a course for several clear -rivulets, which, after gurgling amidst loose stones and fragments, fall -down the steeps, and are concealed and quieted in the herbage of the -vale. - -A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; -and on the brow of the hills above, appears a series of eleven little -chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads to them, -on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful peasants, all -of the name of Anna (for it was St. Anna's day) going to pay their -devotion, severally, at these neat white fanes. There were faces that -Guercino would not have disdained copying, with braids of hair the -softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some had wreathed it simply -with flowers, others with rolls of a thin linen (manufactured in the -neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of elegance one should not -have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol. - -Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the -steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed -each to her fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, and -you may well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the -landscape, increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of their -adorations (for at intervals they sighed and beat their white bosoms -with energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at me as I -passed by. Do not be surprised, then, if I became a convert to idolatry -in so amiable a form, and worshipped Saint Anna on the score of her -namesakes. - -When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a cascade -in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps of a wide -fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its entrance, which was -marked by a shed encompassed with mossy fragments and almost concealed -by bushes of rhododendron in full red bloom--amongst these I struggled, -till reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink of the foaming -waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues a stream which, -dashing impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, and -sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big drops hung on every spray, -and glittered on the leaves partially gilt by the rays of the declining -sun, whose mellow hues softened the rugged summits, and diffused a -repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, which inclined me to -imagine it the extremity of the earth--the portal of some other region -of existence,--some happy world beyond the dark groves of pine, the -caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its source! Impressed -with this romantic idea, I hung eagerly over the gulph, and fancied I -could distinguish a voice bubbling up with the waters; then looked into -the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate its gloom--but all was dark -and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening from my reverie, I felt the -damps of the water chill my forehead; and ran shivering out of the vale -to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that reigned in the meads I had -wandered across before, tempted me to remain a good while longer -collecting dianthi freaked with beautifully varied colours, and a -species of white thyme scented like myrrh. Whilst I was thus employed, a -confused murmur struck my ear, and, on turning towards a cliff, backed -by the woods from whence the sound seemed to proceed, forth issued a -herd of goats, hundreds after hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then -followed two shepherd boys, gamboling together as they drove their -creatures along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, hunting a -stray heifer which brought up the rear. I followed them with my eyes -till lost in the windings of the valley, and heard the tinkling of their -bells die gradually away. Now the last blush of crimson left the summit -of _Sinai_, inferior mountains being long since cast in deep blue shade. -The village was already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments -I followed its example. - -July 27.--We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through the wildest scenes -of wood and mountain, where the rocks were now beginning to assume a -loftier and more majestic appearance, and to glisten with snows. I had -proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, visiting the castle of -Embras, and examining Count Eysenberg's cabinet, enriched with the -rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, and a complete collection of -the moths and flies peculiar to the Tyrol; but, upon my arrival, the -azure of the skies and the brightness of the sunshine inspired me with -an irresistible wish of hastening to Italy. I was now too near the -object of my journey, to delay possession any longer than absolutely -necessary, so, casting a transient look on Maximilian's tomb, and the -bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts, and worthies, solemnly ranged in the -church of the Franciscans, set off immediately. - -We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, and -were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with fields -of corn, and variegated with wood and vineyards, encircling lawns of -the finest verdure, scattered over with white houses. Upon ascending the -mount, and beholding a vast range of prospects of a similar character, I -almost repented my impatience, and looked down with regret upon the -cupolas and steeples we were leaving behind. But the rapid succession of -lovely and romantic scenes soon effaced the former from my memory. - -Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of rocks) -by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, opportunities -of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond forests; green -spots in the midst of wood, high above on the mountains, and cottages -perched on the edge of promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, -amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent -Inn, which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual murmur. -Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed over high bridges; -sometimes mounted halfway up the cliffs, till its roar and agitation -became, through distance, inconsiderable. - -After a long ascent we reached Schnberg,[5] a village well worthy of -its appellation: and then, twilight drawing over us, began to descend. -We could now but faintly discover the opposite mountains, veined with -silver rills, when we came once more to the banks of the Inn. This -turbulent stream accompanied us all the way to Steinach, and broke by -its continual roar the stillness of the night, half spent, before we -retired to rest. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Steinach.--Its torrent and gloomy strait.--Achievements of - Industry.--A sleepy Region.--Beautiful country round Brixen. - - -July 28. - -I rose early to enjoy the fragrance of the vegetation, bathed in a -shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, saw nothing but -crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores of the stream, still dark -with the shade of the mountains. The small opening in which Steinach is -situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, scarce leaving room for the -road and the torrent, which does not understand being thwarted, and will -force its way, let the pines grow ever so thick, or the rocks be ever so -formidable. - -Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry has -contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water by -means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the rocks with soil. By -this means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of the -huts have gardens filled with poppies, which seem to thrive in this -parched situation. - - "Urit enim lini campum seges, urit aven, - Urunt Letho perfusa papavera somno." - -The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations -which discovered themselves. For what specific purpose these gaudy -flowers meet with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to -enquire; the mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even to -Germans. Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love -a conjecture, Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians to -a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these endless mountains. -Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, always denote the skirts of his -soporific reign, and I do not remember a region better calculated for -undisturbed repose than the narrow clefts and gullies which run up -amongst these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, and -moistened by rills and showers, whose continual trickling inspire a -drowsiness not easily to be resisted. Add to these circumstances the -waving of the pines, and the hum of bees seeking their food in the -crevices, and you will have as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser -and Ariosto have placed the nodding deity. - -But we may as well keep our eyes open for the present, and look at the -beautiful country round Brixen, where I arrived in the cool of the -evening, and breathed the freshness of a garden immediately beneath my -window. The thrushes, which nest amongst its shades, saluted me the -moment I awoke next morning. - - - - -ITALY. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Bolsano.--Indications of approaching - Italy.--Fire-flies.--Appearance of the Peasantry.--A forest - Lake.--Arrive at Borgo di Volsugano.--Prospect of Hills in the - Venetian State.--Gorgeous Flies.--Fortress of Covalo.--Leave the - country of crags and precipices and enter the territory of the - Bassanese.--Groves of olives and vines.--Classic appearance of - Bassano.--Happy groups.--Pachierotti, the celebrated - singer.--Anecdote of him. - - -July 29, 1780. - -We proceeded over fertile mountains to Bolsano. It was here first that I -noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick set with melons and Indian -corn; fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over garden walls, clustered -with fruit. In the evening we perceived several further indications of -approaching Italy; and after sun-set the Adige, rolling its full tide -between precipices, which looked terrific in the dusk. Myriads of -fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on the bank. I traced the course -of these exotic insects by their blue light, now rising to the summits -of the trees, now sinking to the ground, and associating with vulgar -glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to remark their progress, since -we travelled all night; such being my impatience to reach the promised -land! - -Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept a few -hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in some -measure abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting -before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in -their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of -the same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, -filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses itself in -shady creeks, amongst hills entirely covered with shrubs and verdure. - -The shores present one continual thicket, interspersed with knots of -larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A cornice of -rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend to the very -brink, and dip their boughs in the water. - -It was six o'clock when I caught the sight of this unsuspected lake, -and the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining a very rapid -ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several airy peaks -rising above tufted foliage. I quitted the contemplation of them with -regret, and, in a few hours, arrived at Borgo di Volsugano; the scene of -the lake still present before the eye of my fancy. - -July 31st.--My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, not very distant, -which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I thought an age, at -least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. The road was never -formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles and rolling -stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and jolting. I should -not have spared my execrations, had it not traversed a picturesque -valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed with fragments of rock, -precipitated, long since, from the surrounding eminences, blooming with -cyclamens. - -I clambered up several of these crags, - - Fra gli odoriferi ginepri,[6] - -to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them deliciously -scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many of which I -here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and expanding -their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers I beheld, nor -their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my heart to destroy -their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch them for ever -from the realms of light and flowers. Had I been less compassionate, I -should have gained credit with that respectable corps, the torturers of -butterflies; and might, perhaps, have enriched their cabinets with some -unknown captives. However, I left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in -free possession of their native rights; and having changed horses at -Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired Italy. - -The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by the fortress of Covalo, in -possession of the empress queen, and only fit, one should think, to be -inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold but by -the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who live in -dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines for -powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach being a -little too arial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, tinging their -entrance, completed the romance of the prospect, which I never shall -forget. - -For two or three leagues there was little variation in the scenery; -cliffs, nearly perpendicular on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and -thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines and -gardens. Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries, made its -appearance, and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges -of white buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which numbers of -women and children were employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, -the stream gradually widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more -frequent and cottages thicker strown. - -About five in the evening we left the country of crags and precipices, -of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile territory of the -Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, and vines clustering -the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in every garden, and vases -of citron and orange before almost every door. The softness and -transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in happier climates; -and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through my veins, upon -beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure stretched out before -me. A few hazy vapours, I can hardly call them clouds, rested upon the -extremities of the landscape; and, through their medium, the sun cast an -oblique and dewy ray. Peasants were returning home, singing as they -went, and calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were -milking goats before the wickets of the cottage, and preparing their -country fare. - -I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and -cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of -former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself of -Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, neither -soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their concealment, to -question and molest a weary traveller, for such is the happiness of the -Venetian state, at least of the terra firma provinces, that it does not -contain, I believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, and the -maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, you -know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire. - -Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of the town in -the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a level -green, where people walk and take ices by moonlight. On the right, the -Franciscan church, and convent, half hid in the religious gloom of pine -and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and towers rising from -the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows, in front; -where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite to the -base of the mountains. - -Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with company, sitting in -circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with fruit and sherbets, -or lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free and -happy that I longed to be acquainted with them; and, thanks to a -warm-hearted old Venetian, (the Senator Querini,) was introduced to a -group of the principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise -to meet the next evening at the villa of La Contessa Roberti, about a -league from Bassano, and then to return together and sing to the praise -of Pachierotti, their idol, as well as mine. - -You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of the -same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what -effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed a -few years ago, and threw his audience into such raptures, that it was -some time before they recovered. One in particular, a lady of -distinction, fainted away the instant she caught the pathetic accents of -his voice, and was near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa, who -sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole affair. "Egli -ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a Padua," was her expression. I assured -her we were not without idolatry in England, upon his account; but that -in this, as well as in other articles of belief, there were many -abominable heretics. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Villa of Mosolente--The route to Venice.--First view of that - city.--Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.--Morning scene on - the grand canal.--Church of Santa Maria della Salute.--Interesting - group of stately buildings.--Convent of St. Giorgio Maggiore.--The - Redentore.--Island of the Carthusians. - - -August 1st, 1780. - -The whole morning not a soul stirred who could avoid it. Those who were -so active and lively the night before, were now stretched languidly upon -their couches. Being to the full as idly disposed, I sat down and wrote -some of this dreaming epistle; then feasted upon figs and melons; then -got under the shade of the cypress, and slumbered till evening, only -waking to dine, and take some ice. - -The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente (for -so is the villa called) placed on a verdant hill encircled by others as -lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected by porticos; -just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. A vast flight of -steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and her friends -received me with a grace and politeness that can never want a place in -my memory. We rambled over all the apartments of this agreeable edifice, -characterised by airiness and simplicity. The pavement encrusted with a -composition as cool and polished as marble; the windows, doors, and -balconies adorned with silver iron work, commanding scenes of meads and -woodlands that extend to the shores of the Adriatic; slender towers and -cypresses rising above the levels; and the hazy mountains beyond Padua, -diversifying the expanse, form altogether a landscape which the elegant -imagination of Horizonti never exceeded. - -I gazed on this delightful view till it faded in the dusk; then -returning to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and heard Signora -Roberti sing the very air which had excited such transport at Padua. As -soon as she had ended, a band of various instruments stationed in the -open street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted me at -any other time; but now, I wished them a thousand leagues away, so -pleasingly melancholy an impression did the air I had been listening to -leave on my mind. - -At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting out -for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I hope some -future day to accept them. - - -August 2. - -Our route to Venice lay winding about the variegated plains I had -surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we came in two -hours and a half to Mestre, between grand villas and gardens peopled -with statues. Embarking our baggage at the last-mentioned place, we -stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was very agreeable after the -jolts of a chaise. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, terminated -by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy Virgin, peeping -out of a thicket, whence spire up two tall cypresses. Its bells tingled -as we passed along and dropped some paolis into a net tied at the end of -a pole stretched out to us for that purpose. - -As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an expanse -of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of Venice rising from -its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, St. Michele, St. Giorgio -in Alga, and several other islands, detached from the grand cluster, -which I hailed as old acquaintances; innumerable prints and drawings -having long since made their shapes familiar. Still gliding forward, we -every moment distinguished some new church or palace in the city, -suffused with the rays of the setting sun, and reflected with all their -glow of colouring from the surface of the waters. - -The air was calm; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing upon -the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel in the -island of San Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, as we rowed -by and coasted the walls of its garden overhung with fig-trees and -surmounted by spreading pines. The convent discovers itself through -their branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the -sea, except where the garden intervenes. - -We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began to -interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing and -repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its stir and -bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much address through -a crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, and rowed smoothly -by the side of a broad pavement, covered with people in all dresses and -of all nations. - -Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of arcades -and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the Leon Bianco, -which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the grand canal, -commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I have no terms to -describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and -cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenic, that adorn these edifices, of -which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render -all verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand scene of -perspective appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals the -other. - -The rooms of our hotel are spacious and cheerful; a lofty hall, or -rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a very good style, perfectly -clean, floored with a marbled stucco, divides the house, and admits a -refreshing current of air. Several windows near the ceiling look into -this vast apartment, which serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered -perfectly luminous by a glazed arcade, thrown open to catch the -breezes. Through it I passed to a balcony which impends over the canal, -and is twined round with plants forming a green festoon springing from -two large vases of orange trees placed at each end. Here I established -myself to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would permit, -the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas. - -As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings -before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas moving -rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed and played -upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when the sounds of -music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew louder and louder, -an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued from the Rialto, and -stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, which stilled every -clamour and suspended all conversation in the galleries and porticos; -till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. The gondoliers catching -the air, imitated its cadences, and were answered by others at a -distance, whose voices, echoed by the arch of the bridge, acquired a -plaintive and interesting tone. I retired to rest, full of the sound; -and long after I was asleep, the melody seemed to vibrate in my ear. - - -August 3. - -It was not five o'clock before I was aroused by a loud din of voices and -splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out, I beheld the grand -canal so entirely covered with fruits and vegetables, on rafts and in -barges, that I could scarcely distinguish a wave. Loads of grapes, -peaches and melons arrived, and disappeared in an instant, for every -vessel was in motion; and the crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to -boat, formed a very lively picture. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a -good many whose dress and carriage announced something above the common -rank; and upon enquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just come from -their casinos, and met to refresh themselves with fruit, before they -retired to sleep for the day. - -Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades of -the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing me -abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and grapes, -and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal to the marble steps -of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the Senate in performance of a vow -to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in 1630. The -great bronze portal opened whilst I was standing on the steps which lead -to it, and discovered the interior of the dome, where I expatiated in -solitude; no mortal appearing except an old priest who trimmed the lamps -and muttered a prayer before the high altar, still wrapt in shadows. The -sun-beams began to strike against the windows of the cupola, just as I -left the church and was wafted across the waves to the spacious platform -in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, one of the most celebrated works of -Palladio. - -When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined the -graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just -proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my -umbrella on the margin of the sea, and viewed at my leisure the vast -range of palaces, of porticos, of towers, opening on every side and -extending out of sight. The Doge's palace and the tall columns at the -entrance of the place of St. Mark, form, together with the arcades of -the public library, the lofty Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal -church, one of the most striking groups of buildings that art can boast -of. To behold at one glance these stately fabrics, so illustrious in the -records of former ages, before which, in the flourishing times of the -republic, so many valiant chiefs and princes have landed, loaded with -oriental spoils, was a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I -thought of the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza -of St. Mark, along which he marched in solemn procession, to cast -himself at the feet of Alexander the Third, and pay a tardy homage to -St. Peter's successor. Here were no longer those splendid fleets that -attended his progress; one solitary galeass was all I beheld, anchored -opposite the palace of the Doge and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, -whose sable hues contrasted strongly with its vermilion oars and shining -ornaments. A party-coloured multitude was continually shifting from one -side of the piazza to the other; whilst senators and magistrates in long -black robes were already arriving to fill their respective offices. - -I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where nothing -stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions, and, whilst I -remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant buzz of the town. -Fortunately some length of waves rolled between me and its tumults; so -that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, undisturbed by officiousness -or curiosity. When the sun became too powerful, I entered the nave. - -After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the lightness -of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the pavement of -white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a mirror the -columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door that admitted -me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, surrounded by a -cloister supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully proportioned. A flight -of stairs opens into the court, adorned with balustrades and pedestals, -sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. This brought me to the -refectory, where the chef-d'oeuvre of Paul Veronese, representing the -marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the first object that presented itself. -I never beheld so gorgeous a group of wedding-garments before; there is -every variety of fold and plait that can possibly be imagined. The -attitudes and countenances are more uniform, and the guests appear a -very genteel, decent sort of people, well used to the mode of their -times and accustomed to miracles. - -Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range of -tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were -coming to devour with energy, if one might judge from their appearance. -These sons of penitence and mortification possess one of the most -spacious islands of the whole cluster, a princely habitation, with -gardens and open porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what -adds not a little to the charms of their abode, is the facility of -making excursions from it, whenever they have a mind. - -The republic, jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives at these -amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and churchmen, -prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the eyes of the -people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere flesh and blood, -and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest of Italy been of the -same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo's maxims, some of its -fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie uncultivated, and its -ancient spirit might have revived. However, I can scarcely think the -moment far distant, when it will assert its natural prerogatives, and -look back upon the tiara, with all its host of scaring phantoms, as the -offspring of a feverish dream. - -Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; -and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of -steps which lead to the Redentore, a structure so simple and elegant, -that I thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked about for -the statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful divinity. A huge -crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times present. - -The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of rueful -martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards of -capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers had -decorated the nave with orange and citron trees, placed between the -pilasters of the arcades; and on grand festivals, it seems, they turn -the whole church into a bower, strew the pavement with leaves, and -festoon the dome with flowers. - -I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. It was -mid-day, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where I might -dine in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off in an instant; -but, though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished to advance still -faster, and getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the waters, -soon left the Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into the plains -of shining sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, fleeting -before me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores of the distant -continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion of my boat, and to -fly with equal celerity. - -I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the -waters--the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their surface. -Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the Carthusian garden, -before I recollected where I was, or could look attentively around me. -Permission being obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting -aside with my hands the boughs of figs and pomegranates, got under an -ancient bay-tree on the summit of a little knoll, near which several -tall pines lift themselves up to the breezes. I listened to the -conversation they held, with a wind just flown from Greece, and charged, -as well as I could understand this airy language, with many -affectionate remembrances from their relations on Mount Ida. - -I reposed amidst fragrant leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it -pleased the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of fruit -and wine. Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand questions -about Lord George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was deeply -engaged with the winds, and a thousand agreeable associations excited by -my Grecian fancies, wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded -ignorance of the Italian language. This circumstance extricated me from -my embarrassment, and procured me a long interval of repose. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Church of St. Mark.--The Piazza.--Magnificent festivals formerly - celebrated there.--Stately architecture of Sansovino.--The - Campanile.--The Loggetta.--The Ducal Palace.--Colossal - Statues.--Giants' Stairs.--Fit of enthusiasm.--Evening-scene in the - great Square.--Venetian intrigue.--Confusion of languages.--Madame - de Rosenberg.--Character of the Venetians. - - -The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other -old story-tellers, and I dozed undisturbed till the people without, in -the boat, (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what was become of me -within,) began a sort of chorus in parts, full of such plaintive -modulation, that I still thought myself under the influence of a dream, -and, half in this world and half in the other, believed, like the heroes -of Fingal, that I had caught the music of the spirits of the hill. - -When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I moved -towards the shore whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay before me; no -gale ruffled the expanse; every breath had subsided, and I beheld the -sun go down in all its sacred calm. You have experienced the sensations -this moment inspires; imagine what they must have been in such a scene, -and accompanied with a melody so simple and pathetic. I stepped into my -boat, and now instead of encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, begged -them to abate their ardour, and row me lazily home. They complied, and -we were near an hour reaching the platform in front of the ducal palace, -thronged as usual with a variety of nations. I mixed a moment with the -crowd; then directed my steps to the great mosque, I ought to say the -church of St. Mark; but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and -semicircular arches, have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse this -appellation. I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of bronze -and gold that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one glance, -the whole extent of the piazza, with its towers and standards. A more -noble assemblage was never exhibited by architecture. I envied the good -fortune of Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a tournament -held in this princely opening. - -Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When Henry the -Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed through -Venice, and found the Senate waiting to receive him in their famous -square, which by means of an awning stretched from the balustrades of -opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling with -artificial stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. What -a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith of power and -luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to them, however, the Venetians -are indebted for the hint, since we read of the Coliseo and Pompey's -theatre being sometimes covered with transparent canvas, to defend the -spectators from the heat or sudden rain, and to tint the scene with soft -agreeable colours. - -Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to enter -into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three -standards before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true -spirit of the antique, and covered with relievos, at once bold and -elegant. It is also to this celebrated architect we are indebted for the -stately faade of the _Procuratie nuove_, which forms one side of the -square, and presents an uninterrupted series of arcades and marble -columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this magnificent range appears -another line of palaces, whose architecture, though far removed from the -Grecian elegance of Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the -pomp of the view. - -There is something strange and singular in the Tower or Campanile, which -rises distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the -left as you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark's. The design is -barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet in spite of -these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful building called the -Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during the convocation of -the Grand Council, decorates its base. Nothing can be more enriched, -more finished than this structure; which, though far from diminutive, is -in a manner lost at the foot of the Campanile. This enormous fabric -seems to promise a long duration, and will probably exhibit Saint Mark -and his Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear in great state towards -its summit, and have nothing superior, but an archangel perched on the -topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the skies. The dusk prevented my -remarking the various sculptures with which the Loggetta is crowded. - -Crossing the ample space between this graceful edifice and the ducal -palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the -principal court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible at -so late an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze richly sculptured diversify -the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps presents itself, by -which the senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, which lead -to the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues of Mars and Neptune -guard the entrance, and have given the appellation of _scala dei -giganti_ to the steps below, which I mounted not without respect; and, -leaning against the balustrades, formed like the rest of the building of -the rarest marbles, contemplated the tutelary divinities. - -My admiration was shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or officers -of police, who take their stands after sunset before the avenues of the -palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point of being closed. -So, hurrying down the steps, I left a million of delicate sculptures -unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, every entablature, is -encrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some other precious marble, -carved into as many grotesque wreaths of foliage as we admire in the -loggie of Raphael. The various portals, the strange projections; in -short, the striking irregularity of these stately piles, delighted me -beyond idea; and I was sorry to be forced to abandon them so soon, -especially as the twilight, which bats and owls love not better than I -do, enlarged every portico, lengthened every colonnade, and increased -the dimensions of the whole, just as imagination desired. This faculty -would have had full scope had I but remained an hour longer. The moon -would then have gleamed upon the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and -discovered the statues of ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of -their niches. - -Such an interesting combination of objects, such regal scenery, with the -reflection that many of their ornaments once contributed to the -decoration of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri thought -me distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about like an actor -in an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands to the consecrated -fanes and images around, expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, -and declaiming the first verses of OEdipus Tyrannus. - -This fit of enthusiasm was hardly subsided, when I passed the gates of -the palace into the great square, which received a faint gleam from its -casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, and to become the -resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were walking in parties upon -the pavement; some sought the convenient gloom of the porticoes with -their favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, and -filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to drink -coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A thoughtless giddy -transport prevailed; for, at this hour, anything like restraint seems -perfectly out of the question; and however solemn a magistrate or -senator may appear in the day, at night he lays up wig and robe and -gravity to sleep together, runs intriguing about in his gondola, takes -the reigning sultana under his arm, and so rambles half over the town, -which grows gayer and gayer as the day declines. - -Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in some -out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families -are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel -undisturbed with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself -cannot discover the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected doors, -by which these retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, whose -mistress disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has searched -for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though the prime -managers of intrigue, are often unacquainted with these interior -cabinets. When a gallant has a mind to pursue his adventures with -mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders his bark to wait, meets his -goddess in the crowd, and vanishes from all beholders. Surely, Venice is -the city in the universe best calculated for giving scope to the -observations of a devil upon two sticks. What a variety of -lurking-places would one stroke of his crutch uncover! - -Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, the -rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and mountebanks, -singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. I observed a -great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard Turkish and -Arabic muttering in every corner. Here the Sclavonian dialect -predominated; there some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. Had -Saint Mark's church been the wondrous tower, and its piazza the chief -square, of the city of Babylon, there could scarcely have been a greater -confusion of languages. - -The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, and I -wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic to -another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, and -settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the same -breath. This instant I found myself in a circle of grave Armenian -priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, who -accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave proof that their -reputation for pliability and address was not ill-founded. - -I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian -counts or princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs, and -footmen, and governors, and staring like me, about them, when Madame de -Rosenberg arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. She -presented me to some of the most distinguished of the Venetian families -at their great casino, which looks into the piazza, and consists of five -or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, neither rich nor elegant, -where were a great many lights, and a great many ladies negligently -dressed, their hair falling very freely about them, and innumerable -adventures written in their eyes. The gentlemen were lolling upon the -sofas, or lounging about the apartments. - -The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was -carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; and, -for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of pleasing -extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing remained -save cards and stupidity. - -In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the affairs -of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and two or three -of them asked some feeble questions about the late tumults in London. It -was one o'clock before all the company were assembled, and I left them -at three, still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. Trieze is -their favourite game: _uno_, _due_, _tre_, _quatro_, _cinque_, _fante_, -_cavallo re_, are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other -sound. - -I wonder a lively people can endure such monotony, for I have been told -the Venetians are remarkably spirited; and so eager in the pursuit of -amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for instance, -after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the square, and -fidgeting about from one casino to another till morning dawns, will get -into a gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or -Fusina, and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, -and rattle back again as if the Devil were charioteer: by eleven the -party is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes to -council. - -This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as -examples of vivacity. Their nerves unstrung by early debaucheries, allow -no natural flow of lively spirits, and at best but a few moments of a -false and feverish activity. The approaches of sleep, forced back by an -immoderate use of coffee, render them weak and listless, and the -facility of being wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds not a -little to their indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern -neighbours in a more lazy light; who, thanks to their opium and their -harems, pass their lives in one perpetual doze. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Excessive heat.--The Devil and Senegal.--A dreary shore.--Scene of - the Doge's nuptials with the sea.--Return to the Place of St. - Mark.--Swarm of Lawyers.--Receptacles for anonymous - accusations.--The Council of Ten.--Terrible punishments of its - victims.--Statue of Neptune.--Fatal Waters.--Bridge of Sighs.--The - Fondamenti Nuovi.--Conservatory of the Mendicanti.--An - Oratorio.--Profound attention of the Audience. - - -August 4th, 1780. - -The heats were so excessive in the night, that I thought myself several -times on the point of suffocation, tossed about like a wounded fish, and -dreamt of the Devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, a faint breeze -restored me to life and reason. I slumbered till late in the day, and -the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier to row out to the -main ocean, that I might plunge into the waves, and hear and see nothing -but waters around me. - -We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, casinos, -and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, without any -apparent foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to be seen -before the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the bark, and -the vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the waters, and -but just above their level. I observed several, as I glided along, -supported by rows of well-proportioned columns, adorned with terms and -vases, beyond which the eye generally discovers a grand court, and -sometimes a garden. - -In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles behind, -and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio Maggiore, -whose elegant frontispiece was distinctly reflected by the calm waters, -launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Carthusian -and two or three other woody islands. I hailed the spot where I had -passed such a happy visionary evening, and nodded to my friends the -pines. - -A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked over -by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go regularly -to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be hoped, to -paradise; as the air of their barracks is abominable, and kills them -like blasted sheep. - -Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene of -the Doge's pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the very spot to -which he sails in the Bucentaur, previously to wedding the sea. You have -heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen full -sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon the topic. -I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, partly, the same road as -the nuptial procession, in order to reach the beach, and was broiled and -dazzled accordingly. - -At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with toads -and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of being -interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless plains of -ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, extending on both -sides out of sight, and dashed into the waves, which were coursing one -another with a gentle motion, and breaking lightly on the shores. The -tide rolled over me as I lay floating about, buoyed up by the water, and -carried me wheresoever it listed. It might have borne me far out into -the main before I had been aware, so totally was I abandoned to the -illusion of the moment. My ears were filled with murmuring undecided -sounds; my limbs, stretched languidly on the surge, rose or sunk just as -it swelled or subsided. In this passive state I remained, till the sun -cast a less intolerable light, and the fishing-vessels, lying out in the -bay at a great distance, spread their sails and were coming home. - -Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the -gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to those -venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. Directing my -course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the grand court, -ascending the giants' stairs, and examined at my leisure its -bas-reliefs. Then, taking the first guide that presented himself, I was -shown along several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable -pillars, into the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo Veronese -have covered with the triumphs of their country. - -A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one of the -first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, before -a solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly seemed -equally affected. Clouds of powder, and volleys of execrations issuing -every instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; and was led -from hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary -resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved with decency, -having never once expressed how much I wished the chefs-d'oeuvre I had -been contemplating, less smoky and numerous. - -At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and caught -the sea-breeze in the open porticoes which front San Giorgio Maggiore. -The walls are covered in most places with grim visages sculptured in -marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow every lie that -malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few ears of the same -kind, dispersed about the Doge's residence, to which one might apply -one's own, and catch some account of the mysteries within; some little -dialogue between the three Inquisitors, or debate in the Council of Ten. - -This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual awe; -before which they appear with trembling and terror; and whose summons -they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it condemns its -victims to perpetual imprisonment, in close, stifling cells, between -the leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood of a -fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under the -canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, its majesty -is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. What other sovereign could -endure the idea of having his immediate residence polluted with tears? -or revel in his halls, conscious that many of his species were consuming -their hours in lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams -separated him from the scene of their tortures? However gaily disposed, -could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath which lie damp and -gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away by painful degrees, and -feel themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, -I could not regard the palace without horror, and wished for the -strength of a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay open -the secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and sunshine -into every den. - -When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of -Neptune, whom twenty ages ago I should have invoked to second my -enterprise. Once upon a time no deity had a freer hand at razing cities. -His execution was renowned throughout all antiquity, and the proudest -monarchs deprecated the wrath of [Greek: KREIN ENOSICHTHN]. But, like -the other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is past and his trident -disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit found favour in the eyes of -fortune, and was led along the career of glory to the deliverance of -captives and the extirpation of monsters; but, in our degenerate times, -this easy road to fame is no longer open, and the means of producing -such signal events are perplexed and difficult. - -Abandoning therefore the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, I left -the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal -overshadowed by the lofty walls of the palace. Beneath these fatal -waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of are situated. There the -wretches lie marking the sound of the oars, and counting the free -passage of every gondola. Above, a marble bridge, of bold majestic -architecture, joins the highest part of the prisons to the secret -galleries of the palace; from whence criminals are conducted over the -arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I shuddered whilst passing below; -and believe it is not without cause, this structure is named PONTE DEI -SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I -could not dine in peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but -snatching my pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain -of fear and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful engines in -the style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and refreshed myself with the -cool air and cheerful scenery of the Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or -terrace of white marble, which commands the whole series of isles, from -San Michele to Torcello, - - "That rise and glitter o'er the ambient tide." - -Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas -which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now and -then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called Il -Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse. - -When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, M. -de Benincasa accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four -conservatorios, which give the best musical education conceivable to -near one hundred young women. You may imagine how admirably those of -the Mendicanti in particular are taught, since their establishment is -under the direction of Bertoni, who breathes around him the very soul of -harmony. The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio was dark and -solemn; a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black marble and highly -polished, reflected the lamps which burn perpetually before the altar. -Every tribune was thronged with people, whose profound silence showed -them worthy auditors of this master's music. Here were no cackling old -women, or groaning Methodists, such as infest our English tabernacles, -and scare one's ears with hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso -obligato. All were still and attentive, imbibing the plaintive notes of -the voices with eagerness; and scarce a countenance but seemed deeply -affected with David's sorrows, the subject of the performance. I sat -retired in a solitary tribune, and felt them as my own. Night came on -before the last chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its sacred -melody. - - - - -LETTER V. - - M. de Viloison and his attendant Laplander.--Drawings of ancient - Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.--Titian's - master-piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo.--The distant - Euganean hills. - - -August 18, 1780. - -It rains; the air is refreshed and I have courage to resume my pen, -which the sultry weather had forced to lie dormant so long. I like this -odd town of Venice, and find every day some new amusement in rambling -about its innumerable canals and alleys. Sometimes I pry about the great -church of Saint Mark, and examine the variety of marbles and mazes of -delicate sculpture with which it is covered. The cupola, glittering with -gold, mosaic, and paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never -fails to transport me to the period of the Eastern empire. I think -myself in Constantinople, and expect Michael Paleologus with all his -train. One circumstance alone prevents my observing half the treasures -of the place, and holds down my fancy just springing into the air: I -mean the vile stench which exhales from every recess and corner of the -edifice, and which all the incense of the altars cannot subdue. - -When no longer able to endure this noxious atmosphere, I run up the -Campanile in the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the -gallery, breathe the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at -my leisure all Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and -long tracks of islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a -provision of wholesome breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, and -venture into the most curious and murky quarters of the city, in search -of Turks and Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I please -about Cairo and Damascus. - -Asiatics find Venice very much to their taste, and all those I conversed -with allowed its customs and style of living had a good deal of -conformity to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee-houses and -sipping of sorbets agree perfectly well with the inhabitants of the -Ottoman empire, who stalk about here in their proper dresses, and smoke -their own exotic pipes, without being stared and wondered at as in most -other European capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative -and enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond the -rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile affairs. - -The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their -propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has been -lately translated into their modern language, and some obliging papa or -other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia into -a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on a stall, -under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went one day to -admire the antiques in its vestibules. - -Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should -have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de Viloison, from a -place where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other -utensils were ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active -investigator of Homer since the days of the good bishop of Thessalonica, -bespatters you with more learning in a minute than others communicate in -half a year; quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, &c. with formidable -fluency; and drove me from one end of the room to the other with a storm -of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than hail, and in an instant I -found myself so weighed down and covered, that I prayed, for mercy's -sake, to be introduced, by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads -about as a curiosity; a poor harmless good sort of a soul, calm and -indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental languages to -perfection: ideas he has in none. - -We went all together to view a collection of medals in one of the -Gradanigo palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with -paintings that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that I -had an opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland -nothingness of my companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent as the -polar regions, not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not one -bright ray of fancy ever glittered in his mind; without love or anger, -pleasure or pain, his days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, -I must confess I envied such comfortable apathy. - -After having passed an instructive hour in examining the medals and -drawings, M. de Viloison proposed conducting me to the Armenian convent, -but I begged to be excused, and went to San Giovanni e Paolo, a church -to be held most holy in the annals of painting, since it contains that -masterpiece of Titian, the martyrdom of the hermits St. Paul and St. -Peter. - -In the evening I rowed out as usual - - "On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea," - -to observe the effect of sunset on the tufted gardens of the Giudeca, -and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the happiest region -of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the simplicity of a pastoral -life, long before the arrival of Antenor. In these primeval days deep -forests and extensive pastures covered the shores of the Adriatic, and -innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. This golden period -ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and Heneti; who, led by Antenor, -drove away the unfortunate savages, and possessed themselves of their -habitations. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.--The once populous city of - Altina.--An excursion.--Effects of our music on the inhabitants of - the Islands.--Solitary fields infested by serpents.--Remains of - ancient sculpture.--Antique and fantastic ornaments of the - Cathedral of Torcello.--San Lorenzo's chair.--Dine in a - Convent.--The Nuns.--Oratorio of Sisera.--Remarks on the - music.--Singing of the Marchetti.--A female orchestra. - - -I am just returned from visiting the isles of Burano, Torcello, and -Mazorbo, distant about five miles from Venice. To these amphibious spots -the Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, fled from the rapine of -Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, there was a time when they -presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond them, on the coast of the -Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, with its six stately -gates, which Dandolo mentions. Its neighbourhood was scattered with -innumerable villas and temples, composing altogether a prospect which -Martial compares to Bai: - - "mula Baianis Altini littora villis." - -But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely away, -and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and mis-shapen fragments, -to vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, Costanziaco -and Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the bowers and gardens -of the Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; those which remain are -scarcely worthy to rise above their surface. - -Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I could -not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of the earth -once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the roofs, perhaps, -of undiscovered palaces. M. de R. to whom I communicated my ideas, -entered at once into the scheme; hiring therefore a _peiotte_, we took -some provisions and music (to us equally necessaries of life) and -launched into the canal, between Saint Michael and Murano. Our -instruments played several delightful airs, that called forth the -inhabitants of every island, and held them in silence, as if -spell-bound, on the edge of their quays and terraces, till we were out -of hearing. - -Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets began to -sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie -stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of purple flowers, -and could distinguish the low hum of the insects which hover above them; -such was the stillness of the place. Coasting these solitary fields, we -wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered by gardens of figs and -pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures of cane and reed: an -aromatic plant, which the people justly dignify with the title of marine -incense, clothes the margin of the waters. It proved very serviceable in -subduing a musky odour, which attacked us the moment we landed, and -which proceeds from serpents that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say -the gondoliers, defend immense treasures which lie buried under the -ruins. Woe to those who attempt to invade them, or to pry too cautiously -about! - -Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mound of fragments -unnoticed, and made the best of our way to a little green, bounded on -one side by a miserable shed, decorated with the name of the Podesta's -residence, and on the other by a circular church. Some remains of -tolerable antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; and the dome, -supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though uncouth and -ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and transports the -fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it was raised. - -Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career to our -imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil composed of -crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose arches, in the -ancient Roman style, convinced us that it dates at least as high as the -sixth or seventh century. - -Nothing can well be more fantastic than the ornaments of this structure, -formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and encrusted with -a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the Confessor's tomb. -The pavement, composed of various precious marbles, is richer and more -beautiful than one could have expected, in a place where every other -object savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther end, beyond the -altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like the gradines of a -diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms of the apostles, in -red, blue, green, and black mosaic, and in the midst of the group a -sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, where Saint Lorenzo -Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the Lord knows how long -ago! The fount for holy water stands by the principal entrance, fronting -this curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some place of Gentile -worship. The figures of horned imps clinging round its sides, more -devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever beheld. The dragons on old -china are not more whimsical; filled with bats' blood it would have been -an admirable present to the sabbath of witches, and have cut a capital -figure in their orgies. The sculpture is not the most delicate, but I -cannot say a great deal about it, as very little light reaches the spot -where it is fixed: indeed, the whole church is far from luminous, its -windows being narrow and near the roof, with shutters composed of blocks -of marble, which nothing but the whirlwinds of the last day, one should -think, would move from their hinges. - -By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular -edifice, and tried to catch some small portion of sanctity by sitting in -San Lorenzo's chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring convent, and -the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, peeped out of -their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the grate. Some few -agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark sisterhood; all -seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the music; two or three of -them, probably the last immured, let fall a tear, and suffered the -recollection of the world and its profane joys to interrupt for a moment -their sacred tranquillity. - -We stayed till the sun was low, on purpose that they might listen as -long as possible to a harmony which seemed to issue, as the old abbess -expressed herself, from the gates of paradise ajar. A thousand -benedictions consecrated our departure; twilight came on just as we -entered the bark and rowed out upon the waves, agitated by a fresh gale, -but fearing nothing under the protection of Santa Margherita, whose good -wishes our music had secured. - -In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went -immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the oratorio -of Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great fire and -originality in this performance; and a knowledge of character seldom -found in the most celebrated masters. The supplication of the thirsty -chieftain, and Jael's insinuating arts and pious treachery, are -admirably expressed; but the agitation and boding slumbers which precede -his death, are imagined in the highest strain of genius. The terror and -agony of his dreams made me start, more than once, from my seat; and all -the horrors of his assassination seemed full before me. - -Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the part of -Sisera, and seconded the composer's ideas by the most feeling and -spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret more on leaving -Venice, than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I fly to -it, and hear the most striking finales in Paesiello's and Anfossi's -operas, as long and often as I please. - -The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, I suppose, it -is entirely of the feminine gender, and that nothing is more common than -to see a delicate white hand journeying across an enormous double bass, -or a pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, at a French -horn. Some that are grown old and Amazonian, who have abandoned their -fiddles and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettle-drum; and one -poor limping lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an admirable -figure on the bassoon. - -Good night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for this -angelic choir. The poetry I send you. The music takes up too much room -to travel at present. One day or other, perhaps, we may hear it in some -dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed and nature in alarm. - -This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, were I not -hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in Bertoni's -opera of Quinto Fabio. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Coast of Fusina.--The Brenta.--A Village of - Palaces.--Fiesso.--Exquisite singing of the Galuzzi.--Marietta - Cornaro.--Scenes of enchantment and fascination. - - -I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my peaceful excursions upon -the Adriatic. No bright rays illuminated my departure, the sun was -concealed in clouds; but the coolness and perfume of the air made ample -amends for his absence. - -About an hour's rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, brought -us to the coast of Fusina, right opposite the opening where the Brenta -mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between banks of verdure, -crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every stalk, and depending -from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint and iris clothe -the brink of the stream, except where interrupted by a tall growth of -reeds and osiers. The morning continued to lower as we advanced; scarce -a wind ventured to breathe: all was still and placid as the surface of -the river. No sound struck my ears except the bargemen hallooing to open -the sluices, and deepen the water. - -As yet I had not perceived an habitation, nor any other objects than -green inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and -poplars. It grew late before we glided along by the Mira, a village of -palaces, whose courts and gardens, as magnificent as statues, terraces, -and vases can make them, are far from composing a rural prospect. - -Such artificial scenery not engaging much of my attention, we stayed no -longer than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before -sunset. Passing the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering -noise, we continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its -broad full stream through impenetrable copses. Day was about to close -when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty evening, I could scarcely -distinguish the pompous faade of the Pisani palace. That of Cornaro, -where we were engaged to sup, looks upon a broad mass of foliage which -I contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the dusk. - -We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the entrance, -breathing the freshness of the wood after a shower which had lately -fallen. The Galuzzi sang some of her father Ferandini's compositions -with surprising energy; her cheek was flushed, her eyes glistened; the -whole tone of her countenance was that of a person rapt and inspired. I -forgot both time and place while she was singing. The night stole -imperceptibly away, before I awoke from my trance. - -I do not recollect ever to have passed an evening, which every -circumstance conspired to render so full of charm. In general, my -musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the phlegm and -stupidity of my neighbourhood; but here, every one seemed to catch the -flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. Marietta Cornaro, whose -lively talents are the boast of the Venetians, threw quick around her -the glancing fires of genius. - -What with the song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual meteors, I -scarcely knew to what element I was transported, and doubted for -several moments, whether I was not fallen into a celestial dream: to -wake was painful, and it was not without much lingering reluctance I -left these scenes of enchantment and fascination, repeating with -melancholy earnestness that pathetic sonnet of Petrarch's-- - - O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento, - O stelle congiurate a' impoverirme! - O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme, - Partend' io, per non esser mai contento? - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Reveries.--Walls of Padua.--Confused Pile dedicated to Saint - Anthony.--Devotion at his Shrine.--Penitential - Worshippers.--Magnificent Altar.--Sculpture of Sansovino.--Colossal - Chamber like Noah's Ark. - - -The splendour of the rising sun, for once in my life, drew little of my -attention. I was too deeply plunged in my reveries, to notice the -landscape which lay before me; and the walls of Padua presented -themselves some time ere I was aware. At any other moment, how sensibly -should I have been affected with their appearance! How many ideas of -Antenor and his Trojans, would have thronged into my memory! but now I -regarded the scene with indifference, and passed many a palace, and many -a woody garden, with my eyes riveted to the ground. The first object -that appeared upon lifting them up, was a confused pile of spires and -cupolas, dedicated to blessed Saint Anthony, one of whose most eloquent -sermons the great Addison has translated _con amore_, and in his very -best manner. - -You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained -for this inspired preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to his -shrine. Mine was a disturbed spirit, and required all the balm of Saint -Anthony's kindness to appease it. Perhaps you will say I had better have -gone to bed, and applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. -It is probable that you are in the right; but I could not retire to rest -without first venting some portion of effervescence in sighs and -supplications. The nave was filled with decrepit women and feeble -children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and other provisions; which, -by good Anthony's interposition, they hoped to sell advantageously in -the course of the day. Beyond these, nearer the choir, and in a gloomier -part of the edifice, knelt a row of rueful penitents, smiting their -breasts, and lifting their eyes to heaven. Further on, in front of the -dark recess, where the sacred relics are deposited, a few desperate, -melancholy sinners lay prostrate. - -To these I joined myself. The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this -religious quarter; and the only light it received proceeded from the -golden lamps, which hang in clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, -decked with the most lavish magnificence, supports the shrine. Those who -are profoundly touched with its sanctity, may approach, and walking -round, look through the crevices of the tomb, which, it is observed, -exude a balsamic odour. But supposing a traveller ever so heretical, I -would advise him by no means to neglect this pilgrimage; since every -part of the recess he visits is decorated with exquisite sculptures. -Sansovino and other renowned artists have vied with each other in -carving the alto relievos of the arcade, which, for design and -execution, would do honour to the sculptors of antiquity. - -Having observed these objects with less exactness than they merited, I -hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am -acquainted with. Here I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. It is -true my slumbers were not a little agitated. The saint had been deaf to -my prayer, and I still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal. - -At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards scarcely knowing, nor much -caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall of the town; -an enormous edifice, larger considerably than that of Westminster, but -free from stalls, or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one -spacious vault of brown timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still -increased by the lateness of the hour, and not diminished by the wan -light, admitted through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and -shape of this colossal chamber, the arching of the roof, with enormous -rafters stretching across it, and, above all, the watery gleams that -glanced through the dull casements, possessed my fancy with ideas of -Noah's ark, and almost persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary vessel. -The representation one sees of it in many an old Dutch Bible, seems to -be formed upon this very model, and for several moments I indulged the -chimera of imagining myself confined within its precincts. Could I but -choose my companions, I should have no great objection to encounter a -deluge, and to float away a few months upon the waves! - -We remained till night walking to and fro in the ark; it was then full -time to retire, as the guardian of the place was by no means formed to -divine our diluvian ideas. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Church of St. Justina.--Tombs of remote antiquity.--Ridiculous - attitudes of rheumatic devotees.--Turini's music.--Another - excursion to Fiesso.--Journey to the Euganean hills.--Newly - discovered ruins.--High Mass in the great Church of Saint - Anthony.--A thunder-storm.--Palladio's Theatre at - Vicenza.--Verona.--An arial chamber.--Striking prospect from - it.--The Amphitheatre.--Its interior.--Leave Verona.--Country - between that town and Mantua.--German soldiers.--Remains of the - palace of the Gonzagas.--Paintings of Julio Romano.--A ruined - garden.--Subterranean apartments. - - -Immediately after breakfast we went to St. Justina's. Both extremities -of the cross aisles are terminated by altar-tombs of very remote -antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of the evangelists, supported -by wreathed columns of alabaster, round which, to my no small -astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were waddling on their knees, -persuaded, it seems, that this strange devotion would cure the -rheumatism, or any other aches with which they were afflicted. You can -have no conception of the ridiculous attitudes into which they threw -themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, between -the middle column of the tomb and those which surround it. No criminal -in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful appearance, no swine ever -scrubbed itself more fervently than these infatuated lubbers. - -I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their lot -for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to -Turini's[7] music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious tones -of the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by the -echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful effect. -Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions with great -intelligence to the place. Nothing can be more original than his style. -Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower of his days, he -gave up his entire soul to music, and can scarcely be said to exist, but -from its mediums. - -When we came out of St. Justina's, the azure of the sky and the softness -of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. Where could I wish to -go, but to the place in which I had been so delighted? Besides, it was -proper to make the Cornaro another visit, and proper to see the Pisani -palace, which happily I had before neglected. All these proprieties -considered, Madame de R. accompanied me to Fiesso. - -The sun was just sunk when we arrived. The whole ether in a glow, and -the fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath them I -walked in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting -melody. She sang till the fineness of the weather tempted us to quit the -palace for the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned upon the -woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a scene naturally -peaceful. - -We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had most -affected me, morning began to dawn. - - -September 8th. - -The want of sound repose, after my return home, had thrown me into a -feverish and impatient mood. I had scarcely snatched some slight -refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina's; but -tried this time to compose myself, in vain. - -Madame de Rosenberg, finding my endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by -way of diverting my attention, that we should set out immediately for -one of the Euganean hills, about six or seven miles from Padua, at the -foot of which some antique baths had been very lately discovered. I -consented without hesitation, little concerned whither I went, or what -happened to me, provided the scene was often shifted. The lanes and -inclosures we passed, in our road to the hills, appeared in all the -gaiety that verdure, flowers, and sunshine could give them. But my -pleasures were overcast, and I beheld every object, however cheerful, -through a dusky medium. - -Deeply engaged in conversation, distance made no impression, and I found -myself entering the meadow, over which the ruins are scattered, whilst I -imagined myself several miles distant. No scene could be more smiling -than this which here presented itself, or answer, in a fuller degree, -the ideas I had always formed of Italy. - -Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the meadow, we traversed its -surface, and shortly perceived among the grass, an oblong basin, -incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large and -perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and still retaining their -polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still perfectly -discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. Near -the principal bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular -apartments, paved with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from -inelegant. Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the -freshness of the ruin everywhere shows that it has not long been -exposed. - -Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; and -Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to maintain -the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any learned -parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with all its -importance, to calmer and less impatient minds. - -Having taken a cursory view of the ruins, we ascended the hill just -above them, and surveyed a prospect of the same nature, though in a more -lovely and expanded style than that which I beheld from Mosolente. Padua -crowns the landscape, with its towers and cupolas rising from a -continued grove; and, from the drawings I have seen, I should -conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of a similar appearance. - -Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we brought them home to the -fragments beneath our feet. The walls exhibit the _opus reticulatum_, so -common in the environs of Naples. A sort of terrace, with the remaining -bases of columns which encircle the hill, leads me to imagine here were -formerly arcades and porticos, constructed for enjoying the view; for on -the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable edifice, and am -therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more than a colonnade -surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight fane, or pavilion, -for the recreation of the bathers below. - -A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled -additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour approached, -which was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, and to restore -the tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But now it diffused its -reviving coolness in vain, and I remained, if possible, more sad and -restless than before. - - -September 9th. - -You may imagine how I felt when the hour of leaving Padua drew near. It -happened to be a festival, and high mass was celebrated at the great -church of Saint Anthony in all its splendour. The ceremony was about -half over when such a peal of thunder reverberated through the vaults -and cupolas, as I expected would have shaken them to their foundations. -The principal dome appeared invested with a sheet of fire; and the -effect of terror produced upon the majority of the congregation, by this -sudden lighting up of the most gloomy recesses of the edifice, was so -violent that they rushed out in the wildest confusion. Had my faith been -less lively, I should have followed their example; but, absorbed in the -thought of a separation from those to whom I felt fondly attached, I -remained till the ceremony ended; then took leave of Madame de R. with -heartfelt regret, and was driven away to Vicenza. - - -September 10th. - -The morning being overcast, I went to Palladio's theatre. It is -impossible to conceive a structure more truly classical, or to point out -a single ornament which has not the best antique authority. I am not in -the least surprised that the citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave -in to this great architect's plan, and sacrificed large sums to erect -so beautiful a model. When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, -the representation of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic -decorations. - -After I had mused a long while in the most retired recess of the -edifice, fancying I had penetrated into a real and perfect monument of -antiquity, which till this moment had remained undiscovered, we set out -for Verona. The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of -battlemented walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a -grand irregular sweep, and incloses the city with many a woody garden, -and grove of slender cypress. Beyond rises a group of mountains; -opposite to which a plain presents itself, decked with all the variety -of meads and thickets, olive-grounds and vineyards. - -Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, and -passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) to the -inn, a lofty handsome-looking building; but so full that we were obliged -to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to all the winds, -like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions, and commanding the roofs of -half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up amongst them, and the shady -hills, terminating the perspective of walls and turrets, formed a -romantic scene. - -Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater -freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Guarda, and the delicious -fruits of the country. Thus did I remain, solacing myself, breathing the -cool air, and remarking the tints of the mountains. Neither paintings -nor antiques could tempt me from my arial situation; I refused hunting -out the famous works of Paul Veronese scattered over the town, and sat -like the owl in the Georgics, - - Solis et occasum servans de culmine summo. - -Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing down stairs, enquired -for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the most entire -monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead of bringing me -a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a professed antiquary, -one of those precise plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have -so capital an aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little -erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with -eternal fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of conduits, and -knew to admiration how the filthiness of all the amphitheatre was -disposed of. - -But perceiving my inattention, and having just grace enough to remark -that I chose one side of the street when he preferred the other, and -sometimes trotted through despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty -bow, I threw him half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed -a gloomy arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf covers -its surface, from which a spacious sweep of gradines rises to a majestic -elevation. Four arches, with their simple Doric ornament, alone remain -of the grand circular arcade which once crowned the highest seats of the -amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of the -structure would have equally resisted the ravages of time. Nothing can -be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not a block has -sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries they may have -received have been carefully repaired. The two chief entrances are -rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage being permitted -through the amphitheatre except at public shows and representations, -sometimes still given in the arena. - -When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed, and nothing -moved, except the weeds and grasses which skirt the walls and tremble -with the faintest breeze. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle -of the arena, I enjoyed the freedom of my situation, its profound -stillness and solitude. How long I remained shut in by endless gradines -on every side, wrapped as it were in the recollections of perished ages, -is not worth noting down; but when I passed from the amphitheatre to the -opening before it, night was drawing on, and the grand outline of a -terrific feudal fortress, once inhabited by the Scaligeri, alone dimly -visible. - - -September 11th. - -Traversing once more the grand piazza, and casting a last glance upon -the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty arch which terminates the -perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, picturesque street, -commanding, whenever you look back, a striking scene of towers, cypress, -and mountains. - -The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one -continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, with here and there a knot of -poplars, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself rises out of a -morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so choked -up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It requires a creative -imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and a strong -prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where Virgil was born. - -The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what -croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea being -scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and refused -stirring out till late in the evening. - -A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the -Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, and was -amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by the bold pencil of -Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and the arabesques, with -which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal those of the Vatican. Being -painted in fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their -number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away. - -The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the -purity and gracefulness of Raphael; the story of Polypheme is very -conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his beloved Galatea, on the -shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic enemy, seated above on the -brow of tna, seems by the paleness and horrors of his countenance to -meditate some terrible revenge. - -When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked into -a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with -fountains and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst -weeds and beds of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered -with vegetation. Here nettles grow thick and rampant; there, tuberoses -and jessamine spring from mounds of ruins, which during the elegant -reign of the Gonzagas led to grottoes and subterranean apartments, -concealed from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most refined enjoyments. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Cross the Po.--A woody country.--The Vintage.--Reggio.--Ridge of - the Apennines.--Romantic ideas connected with those - mountains.--Arrive at Modena.--Road to Bologna.--Magnificent - Convent of Madonna del Monte.--Natural and political commotions in - Bologna.--Proceed towards the mountains.--Dreary prospects.--The - scenery improves.--Herds of goats.--A run with them.--Return to the - carriage.--Wretched hamlet.--Miserable repast. - - -September 12th, 1780. - -A shower, having fallen, the air was refreshed, and the drops still -glittered upon the vines, through which our road conducted us. Three or -four miles from Mantua the scene changed to extensive grounds of rice, -and meads of the tenderest verdure watered by springs, whose frequent -meanders gave to the whole prospect the appearance of a vast green -carpet shot with silver. Further on we crossed the Po, and passing -Guastalla, entered a woody country full of inclosures and villages; -herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry parading before every wicket. - -The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon the -elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that hang -streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised to find -myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every road -crowded with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine a -pleasanter scene. - -Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of that -sketch-inviting little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus -might have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, -swarming with bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, enabled us to -pass too rapidly through so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of -fields and copses as we were driven along, that could have afforded me -amusement for hours, and orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I -could have walked till evening. The trees literally bent under their -loads of fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the -ground. - -Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional -splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the irregular -ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a striking contrast -to the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed my eyes on the chain -of distant mountains, and indulged a thousand romantic conjectures of -what was passing in their recesses--hermits absorbed in -prayer--beautiful Contadine fetching water from springs, and banditti -conveying their victims, perhaps at this very moment, to caves and -fastnesses. - -Such were the dreams that filled my fancy, and kept it incessantly -employed till it was dusk, and the moon began to show herself; the same -moon which but a few nights ago had seen me so happy at Fiesso. I left -the carriage, and running into the dim haze, abandoned myself to the -recollections it excited.... - -At length, having wandered where chance or the wildness of my fancy led, -till the lateness of the evening alarmed me, I regained the chaise as -fast as I could, and arrived between twelve and one at Modena, the place -of my destination. - - -September 13th. - -We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose richness -and fertility encreased in proportion as we drew near that celebrated -mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of hills commands the city, -variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable. On the highest -acclivity of this range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna del -Monte, embosomed in wood and joined to the town by a corridor a league -in length. This vast portico ascending the steeps and winding amongst -the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes visible, produces an -effect wonderfully grand and singular. I longed to have mounted the -height by so extraordinary a passage; and hope on some future day to be -better acquainted with Santa Maria del Monte. - -At present I have very little indeed to say about Bologna (where I -passed only two hours) except that it is sadly out of humour, an -earthquake and Cardinal Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and -people. For half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these -last six months, the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched -incessantly; so that, between natural and political commotions, the -Bolognese must have passed an agreeable summer. - -Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not -likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to another -opportunity, and proceeded immediately after dinner towards the -mountains. We were soon in the midst of crags and stony channels, that -stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, but during the -summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half the scorpions in -the country. - -For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but dreary -hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than those to -which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or chapel peeped out -of the parched fern and grasses, with which these desolate fields are -clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim trudging along, -and staring about him as if he waited only for night and opportunity to -have additional reasons for hurrying to Loretto. - -During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene -increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second -post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green valleys -at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, scattered over -with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which the nakedness of the -impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides of the cliffs in general -consist of rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth and -verdant, and continually browsed by herds of white goats, which were -gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed beneath. - -I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were stretched -by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a few minutes -whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare me with all -their horns. Being tired with skipping and butting at me in vain, the -whole herd trotted away, and I after them. They led me a dance from crag -to crag and from thicket to thicket. - -It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend from -the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what monster -inhabited such retirements, so gave over my pursuit lest some Polypheme -or other might make me repent it. I looked around, the carriage was out -of sight; but hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, I soon came -up with them, and mounted another rapid ascent, from whence an extensive -tract of cliff and forest land was discernible. - -A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, and made a -dismal rustle amongst the woods of chesnut that hung on the mountain's -side, through which we were forced to pass. Walking out of the sound of -the carriage, I began interpreting the language of the leaves, not -greatly to my own advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was -no prophet of good, and had I but commanded an oracle, as ancient -visionaries were wont, I should have flung mischief about me. - -How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, but -believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular forest, and -saw faintly before us an assemblage of miserable huts, where we were to -sleep. This wretched hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak -mountain, and every gust that stirs, shakes the whole village to its -foundations. At our approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns and -invited us with a grin, which I shall always remember, to a dish of -mustard and crows' gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of -tasting, lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, condemned to -mope eternally on the black rafters of the cottage. - -After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots to -make a fire. Pitching my bed in a warm corner I soon fell asleep, and -forgot all my cares and inquietudes. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - A sterile region.--Our descent into a milder landscape.--Distant - view of Florence.--Moonlight effect.--Visit the Gallery.--Relics of - ancient credulity.--Paintings.--A Medusa's head by Leonardo da - Vinci.--Curious picture by Polemberg.--The Venus de - Medicis.--Exquisitely sculptured figure of Morpheus.--Vast - Cathedral.--Garden of Boboli.--Views from different parts of - it.--Its resemblance to an antique Roman garden. - - -September 14th, 1780. - -The sun had not been long above the horizon, before we set forward upon -a craggy pavement hewn out of rough cliffs and precipices. Scarcely a -tree was visible, and the few that presented themselves began already to -shed their leaves. The raw nipping air of this desert with difficulty -spares a blade of vegetation; and in the whole range of these extensive -eminences I could not discover a single corn-field or pasture. -Inhabitants, you may guess, there were none. I would defy even a Scotch -highlander to find means of subsistence in so rude a soil. - -Towards mid-day, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, -and began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved as well -as the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, we saw -groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string of mules -and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and peaches from this -little caravan, and spread my repast upon a bank, in the midst of -lavender bushes in full bloom. - -Continuing our route, we bade adieu to the realms of poverty and -barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale, shaded by woody acclivities. -Amongst these we wound along, between groves of poplar and cypress, till -late in the evening. Upon winding a hill we discovered Florence at a -distance surrounded with gardens and terraces rising one above another; -the full moon seemed to shine with a peculiar charm upon this favoured -region. Her serene light on the pale grey of the olive, gave a visionary -and Elysian appearance to the landscape, and I was sorry when I found -myself excluded from it by the gates of Florence. - -I slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it was time next -morning (Sept. 15,) to visit the gallery, and worship the Venus de -Medicis. I felt, upon entering this world of refinement, as if I could -have taken up my abode in it for ever, but, confused with the multitude -of objects, I knew not on which first to bend my attention, and ran -childishly by the ample ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a -parterre, that skims before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers. - -Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the angle -and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with -master-pieces of bronze and marble. A minute brought me to the extremity -of this range, vast as it was; then, flying down a third, adorned in the -same delightful manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and -began to reflect a little more maturely upon the company in which I -found myself. Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, -breathing divinity: and Cybele, the mother of the gods. - -Having regarded these powers with due veneration, I next cast my eyes -upon a black figure, whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of -sleep. You know my fondness for this drowsy personage, and that it is -not the first time I have quitted the most splendid society for him. I -found him at present, of touchstone, with the countenance of a towardly -brat, sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist had not conceived -very poetical ideas of the god, or else he never would have represented -him with so little grace and dignity. - -Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived the -transports of enthusiasm beginning to subside, and felt myself calm -enough to follow the herd of guides and spectators from chamber to -chamber, cabinet to cabinet, without falling into errors of rapture and -admiration. We were led slowly and moderately through the large rooms, -containing the portraits of painters, good, bad, and indifferent, from -Raphael to Liotard; then into a museum of bronzes, which would afford -both amusement and instruction for years. - -When I had rather alarmed than satisfied my curiosity by rapidly running -over a multitude of candelabrums, urns, and sacred utensils, we entered -a small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly decorated, and -filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship in bronze and -various metals, classed in exact order. Here are crowds of diminutive -deities and tutelary lars, to whom the superstition of former days -attributed those midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the -misfortunes of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are -preserved a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and other -grotesque relics of ancient credulity. - -In the centre of the room I remarked a table, beautifully formed of -polished gems, and, near it, the statue of a genius with his familiar -serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the treasured -antiquities. From this chamber we were conducted into another, which -opens to that part of the gallery where the busts of Adrian and Antinous -are placed. Two pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of -ancient armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several -perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of oriental -alabaster about ten feet in height, - - Lucido e terso, e bianco, pi che latte. - -I put my guide's patience to the proof, by lingering to admire the -column and cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are impregnated, -obliged me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of saloons, with low -arched roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure and gold. Several -medallions appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably well -painted, with representations of splendid feasts and tournaments for -which Florence was once so famous. - -A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers the -walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than a Medusa's -head by Leonardo da Vinci. It appears just severed from the body and -cast on the damp pavement of a cavern: a deadly paleness covers the -countenance, and the mouth exhales a pestilential vapour; the snakes, -which fill almost the whole picture, beginning to untwist their folds; -one or two seemed already crept away, and crawling up the rock in -company with toads and other venomous reptiles. - -Here are a great many Polembergs: one in particular, the strangest I -ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls he is -in general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject Virgil -ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst the ruins -of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. These -mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying upon the -damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous lobster, seems -very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable mortal, who sprawls, -though in vain, to escape from his claws. This performance, whimsical as -it is, retains all that softness of tint and delicacy of pencil for -which Polemberg is so renowned. - -Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the painter's choice, I -should have passed over this picture, like a thousand more, and have -brought you immediately to the tribune. Need I say I was spell-bound the -moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus de -Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a beauty no copy -has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs exceeded the liveliest -idea I had formed to myself of their perfection. - -When I had taken my eyes reluctantly away from this beautiful object, I -cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at the -feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant lion -serves him for a pillow; two ample wings, carved with the utmost -delicacy, are gathered under him; two others, budding from his temples, -half-concealed by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid hands scarcely -hold a bunch of poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding to his -influence. Nothing can be more just than the expression of sleep in the -countenance of the little divinity. His lion too is perfectly lulled, -and rests his muzzle upon his fore paws as quiet as a domestic spaniel. -My ill-humour at seeing this deity so grossly sculptured in the gallery, -was dissipated by the gracefulness of his appearance in the tribune. I -was now contented, for the artist had realized my ideas; and, if I may -venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher perfection, and, -at the same time, kept more justly within its province. Sleeping figures -with me always produce the finest illusion; but when I see an archer in -the very act of discharging his arrow, a dancer with one foot in the -air, or a gladiator extending his fist to all eternity, I grow tired, -and view such wearisome attitudes with infinitely more admiration than -pleasure. - -The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the tribune. In -my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, inlaid -with the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered work, -like an old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have turned his -building inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented than the -exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is vast and -solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar in its centre, -inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred feet in diameter. There -is something imposing in this decoration, as it suggests the idea of a -sanctuary, into which none but the holy ought to penetrate. However -profane I might feel myself, I took the liberty of entering, and sat -down in a niche. Not a ray of light reaches this sacred inclosure, but -through the medium of narrow windows, high in the dome, and richly -painted. A sort of yellow tint predominates, which gives additional -solemnity to the altar, and paleness to the votary before it. I was -sensible of the effect, and obtained at least the colour of sanctity. - -Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and feasted -upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked to one of -the bridges across the Arno, and from thence to the garden of Boboli, -which lies behind the Grand Duke's palace, stretched out on the side of -a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, robed by a thick underwood -of bay and myrtle, above which rise several nodding towers, and a long -sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely concealed by ivy. You would -have been enraptured with the broad masses of shade and dusky alleys -that opened as I advanced, with white statues of fauns and sylvans -glimmering amongst them; some of which pour water into sarcophagi of the -purest marble, covered with antique relievos. The capitals of columns -and ancient friezes are scattered about as seats. - -On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves which -spring above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I -followed a winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to a -green platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence deep -beneath, and the tops of the hills which encircle it jagged with pines; -here and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene -extends as far as the eye can reach. - -Still ascending I attained the brow of the eminence, and had nothing but -the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above me. On -this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis-work, clothed -with luxuriant vines. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands extended in -the act of scattering fertility over the country, crowns the summit. - -Descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came to the -orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, with -marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring cedars and -tall arial cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique Roman -garden so vividly into my mind, that, lost in the train of recollections -this idea excited, I expected every instant to be called to the table of -Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticos, and to stretch myself on his -purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for a summons till the approach -of night, I returned delighted with a ramble that had led my imagination -so far into antiquity. - -Friday, Sept. 16.--My impatience to hear Pacchierotti called me up with -the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest of musical -pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a fertile plain, -bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns and villages. We -passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in the afternoon entered the -Lucchese territory, by a clean paved road, which runs through chestnut -copses bordered with broom in blossom, and an immense variety of heaths; -a red soil peeping forth from the vegetation, adds to the richness of -the landscape, which swells all the way into gentle acclivities: and at -about seven or eight miles from the city spreads all round into -mountains, green to their very summits, and diversified with gardens and -palaces. More pleasing scenery can with difficulty be imagined: I was -quite charmed with beholding it, as I knew very well that the opera -would keep me a long while chained down in its neighbourhood. - -Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since I defy -almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. Narrow -streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; everybody -in black, according with the gloom of their habitations, which however -are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having all grated windows, -they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. My spirits fell many -degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when I found Friday was -meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its inhabitants, and no -opera to be performed, I grew wofully out of humour. Instead of a -delightful symphony, I heard nothing for some time but the clatter of -plates and the swearing of waiters. - -Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of -distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin. -Overhearing my sad complaint for want of music, they most generously -determined I should have my fill of it, and, getting together a few -scrapers, began such an academia as drove me to the further end of a -very spacious apartment, whilst they possessed the other. The hopes and -heir of the family--a chubby dolt of between eighteen and nineteen, his -uncle, a thickset smiling personage, and a brace of innocent-looking -younger brothers, plied their fiddles with a hearty good will, waggled -their double chins, and played out of tune with the most happy -unconsciousness, as amateurs are apt to do ninety-nine times in a -hundred. - -Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent -the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely ill, -at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and attendant -females, kept ogling him with great perseverance. Those who could not -get in, squinted through the crevices of the door. Abbates and -greyhounds were fidgetting continually without. In short, I was so -persecuted with questions, criticisms, and concertos, that, pleading -headache and indisposition, I escaped about ten o'clock, and shook -myself when I got safe to my apartment like a worried spaniel. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He catches - cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is in commotion, and - send a deputation to remonstrate with the Singer on his - imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill scenery.--Princely Castle and - Gardens of the Garzoni Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of - Ilex.--Endless bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese - Mansi.--Return to Lucca. - - -Lucca, Sept. 25, 1780. - -You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots -where the arbutus flourishes; from whence I may catch a glimpse of the -distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass, -like Palmerin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of -grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I -have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the visits, dinners, -conversazioni, and glories of the town, and only go thither in an -evening, just time enough for the grand march which precedes -Pacchierotti in Quinto Fabio. Sometimes he accompanies me in my -excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall -ruin their Opera, by leading him such extravagant rambles amongst the -mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds and showers. One -day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; for the next, away -we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so late in the evening, that a -cold and hoarseness were the consequence. - -The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime -ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had -committed. Had the safety of their mighty state depended upon this -imprudent excursion, they could not have vociferated with greater -violence. You know I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very -nearly got into a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations -of the Gonfalonier and all his council upon my head by openly declaring -our intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and -absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities. -These terrible threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a -tour of about thirty miles upon the high lands, and visited a variety -of castles and palaces. - -The Conte Nobili, a noble Lucchese, born in Flanders and educated at -Paris, was our conductor. He possesses great elegance of imagination, -and a degree of sensibility rarely met with. The way did not appear -tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by light clouds, and a -soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered with shrubs and -olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted with so deep a -blue, that I began to think the azure so prevalent in Velvet Breughel's -landscapes is hardly exaggerated. - -After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we -began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; a great many -loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, -which continued, turning and winding through this wilderness, till it -opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted -groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzoni, on the -very side of a precipice. - -Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies -extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of -spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, strikes for the first -time with the effect of enchantment. Two large marble basins, with -jets-d'eau, seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from the -extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with cedar and ilex, and -cut into terraces. - -Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic enclosure, we passed -through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an endless flight of -steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the -trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and -lighted up the green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling the -waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and -sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams -issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal -by their thick branches a pavilion with baths. Above arises a colossal -statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting from the -precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, on which -I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arching over my head, fell, -without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below. - -I could hardly prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess; which -the fragrance of bay and orange, maintained by constant showers, -rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a -dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken, -is suffered to grow as wild as it pleases. This grove is suspended on -the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a boundless wood of -olives, and forms, by its willowy colour, a striking contrast with the -deep verdure of its base. - -After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue, -bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty -feet high. This led us to the palace, which was soon run over. Then, -mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with -myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most -powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a -continued bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit. These -arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I fell upon the -clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the north, unused to -such luxuriance: one of those Goths, Gray so poetically describes, who - - Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose, - And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows. - -I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and -observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the -glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only -every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom -prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day. - -But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon -forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to -the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable -brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies a pastoral -hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide vineyards and -fields of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte Nobili -conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very comfortable -dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied the richest wines of -Constantia to exceed it. - -Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble -walks and trickling rivulets, we took coffee and loitered till sunset. -It was then time to return, as the mists were beginning to rise from the -valleys. The calm and silence of evening threw us into our reveries. We -went pacing along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without -hearing any sound but their steps. - -Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti -coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The - Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed to - Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of the Fanale. - - -Leghorn, October 2nd, 1780. - -This morning we set out for Pisa. No sooner had we passed the highly -cultivated garden-grounds about Lucca than we found ourselves in narrow -roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising -high above our carriage and waving their leaves in the air. Through the -openings which sometimes intervened we discovered a variety of hillocks -clothed with shrubs, ruined towers looking out of the bushes, not one -without a romantic tale attending it. - -This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa -rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in -Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before the -Duomo, which stands insulated in a vast green area, and is perhaps the -most curious edifice my eyes ever viewed. Do not ask of what shape or -architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great is the confusion -of ornaments. The dome gives the mass an oriental appearance, which -helped to bewilder me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but -little thought they existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as -perfectly awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular -edifice distinct from the church and right opposite its principal -entrance, crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of -cupolas. - -Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some -moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of -porphyry and of the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the -rest of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest -mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by Michael -Angelo Buonarotti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We -examined them with due attention, and then walked down the nave and -remarked the striking effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective -through the bronze portals, which you know, I suppose, are covered with -relievos of the finest workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide -open, and we passed between them to the baptistery, where stands an -alabaster font, constructed after the primitive ritual and exquisitely -wrought. - -Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the area in -which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic tabernacle above -the entrance, rising from the level turf and preserving a neat straw -colour, appear as fresh as if built within the present century. Our -guide unlocking the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an -oblong quadrangle, which encloses the sacred earth of Jerusalem, -conveyed hither about the period of the crusades, the days of Pisanese -prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none -are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is entirely composed of -tombs with slabs, smoothly laid and covered with monumental -inscriptions. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble -and glistening in the sun, support the arcade of the cloister, which is -carved with innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly -Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from -Dante's rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries, -attributed to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccaccio -mentions in his Decamerone. - -Beneath, along the base of the columns, are placed, to my no small -surprise, rows of pagan sarcophagi; I could not have supposed the -Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such -consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty other -contradictory ornaments. - -I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty -times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some odd -novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of _giallo antico_, -that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I only mention -to identify the precise point of view), and looking through the -filigreed tracery of the arches observed the domes of the cathedral, -cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the -leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in -Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are airy, the -pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an exotic look in the -whole scene, that without any violent effort of fancy one might imagine -one's self in fairy land. Every object is new, every ornament original; -the mixture of antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the -vagaries of the prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of -returning, to hear visionary music and commune with sprites, for I shall -never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a theatre. - -The heat was so powerful that all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their -wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets, -except five camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden -walls and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We were -obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, before we -reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought after, and when I had -swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began not to think quite so much of -the deserts of Africa, as the heat and the camels had induced me to do a -moment ago. - -Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Leghorn through a wild tract of -forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in some -places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the desire of -walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling -through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and -chesnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the -prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs. - -Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was -sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses as in the month of May. I -felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and was -greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in the fullest -and most luxuriant bloom. The softness of the air, the sound of the -distant surges, the evening gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted -the tumult of my spirits, and I experienced the calm of my infant hours. -I lay down in the open turf-walks between the shrubberies, and during a -few moments had forgotten every care; but when I began to enquire into -my happiness, I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I love -most, in situations they would have warmly admired, and without them -these pleasant lawns and woodlands looked pleasant in vain. - -We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanale began to -lift itself above the horizon--the very tower you have so often -mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships out -at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception in our -northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales from -the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the port and sat -on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that broke amongst them. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - The Mole at Leghorn.--Coast scattered over with - Watch-towers.--Branches of rare Coral unexpectedly acquired. - - -October 3rd, 1780. - -I went, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as soon as the sun -began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no stranger to; -therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble of saying anything -about it, except that the port which it embraces is no longer crowded. -Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only three, and those consist -chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look as poor and tattered as their -masters. Not much attention did I bestow upon such objects, but, taking -my seat at the extremity of the quay, surveyed the smooth plains of -ocean, the coast scattered over with watchtowers, and the rocky isle of -Gorgona, emerging from the morning mists, which still lingered upon the -horizon. - -Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train of -ideas before my imagination, which pleased your own upon beholding it, -an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, -stepped out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, presented -himself before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed dripping a few -moments before he pronounced a syllable, and when he began his -discourse, I was in doubt whether I should not have moved off in a -hurry, there was something so wan and singular in his countenance. -Except this being, no other was visible for a quarter of a mile at -least. I knew not what strange adventure I might be upon the point of -commencing, or what message I was to expect from the submarine -divinities. However, after all my conjectures, the figure turned out to -be no other than an old fisherman, who having picked up a few branches -of the rarest species of coral, offered them to sale. I eagerly made the -purchase, and thought myself a favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me -to acquire, with such facility, some of his most beautiful ornaments. - -My bargain thus expeditiously concluded, I ran along the quay with my -basket of coral, and, taking boat, was rowed back to the gate of the -port. The carriage waited there; I shut myself up in the grateful shade -of green blinds, and was driven away at a rate that favoured my -impatience. We bowled smoothly over the lawns described in my last -letter, amongst myrtles in flower, that would have done honour to the -island of Juan Fernandez. - -Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the Campo -Santo, but hurried on to Lucca, and threw the whole idle town into a -stare by my speedy return. - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Florence again.--Palazzo Vecchio.--View on the Arno.--Sculptures by - Cellini and John of Bologna.--Contempt shown by the Austrians to - the memory of the House of Medici.--Evening visit to the Garden of - Boboli.--The Opera.--Miserable singing.--A Neapolitan Duchess. - - -Florence, October 5th, 1780. - -It was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. We had all -the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important -republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, the -atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which we -were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after us. - -Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and shaking -till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then proceeded so -slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late in the evening, and -took possession of an apartment over the Arno, which being swollen with -rains roared like a mountain torrent. Throwing open my windows, I viewed -its agitated course by the light of the moon, half concealed in stormy -clouds, which hung above the fortress of the Belvedere. I sat -contemplating the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights of -Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst which a -convent is situated, till the moon sank into the darkest quarter of the -sky, and a bell began to toll. Its mournful sound filled me with gloomy -recollections. I closed the casements, and read till midnight some -dismal memoir of conspiracies and assassinations, Guelphs and -Ghibelines, the black story of ancient Florence. - - -October 6th. - -Every cloud was dispersed when I arose, and the purity and transparence -of the ther added new charms to the picturesque eminences around. I -felt quite revived by this exhilarating prospect, and walked in the -splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath the famous gallery, then -to an antient castle, raised in the days of the Republic, which fronts -the grand piazza. Colossal statues and trophies badly carved in the -true spirit of the antique, are placed before it. On one side a -fountain, clung round with antick figures of bronze, by John of Bologna. -On the other, three lofty pointed arches, and under one of them the -Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini. - -Having examined some groups of sculptures by Baccio Bandinelli and other -mighty artists, I entered the court of the castle, dark and deep, as if -hewn out of a rock, surrounded by a vaulted arcade covered with -arabesque ornaments and supported by pillars almost as uncouthly -designed as those of Persepolis. In the midst appears a marble fount -with an image of bronze, that looks quite strange and cabalistic. I -leaned against it to look up to the summits of the walls, which rise to -a vast height, from whence springs a slender tower. Above, in the -apartments of the castle, are still preserved numbers of curious -cabinets, tables of inlaid gems, and a thousand rarities, collected by -the house of Medici, and not yet entirely frittered away and disposed of -by public sale. - -It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of contempt -which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those illustrious patrons of -the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate, they affect to despise as a -race of merchants whose example it would be abasing their dignity to -follow. - -I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness of -the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. That duty -over, I dined in peace and solitude, and repaired, as evening drew on, -to the thickets of Boboli. - -What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! A -purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested with -saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that clothed -their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended the terraces of -the garden. - -After traversing many long dusky alleys, I reached the opening on the -brow of the hill, and seating myself under the statue of Ceres, took a -sketch of the huge mountainous cupola of the Duomo, the adjoining lovely -tower and one more massive in its neighbourhood, built not improbably in -the style of ancient Etruria. Beyond this historic group of buildings a -plain stretches itself far and wide, most richly studded with villas -and gardens, and groves of pine and olive, quite to the feet of the -mountains. - -Having marked the sun's going down and all the soothing effects cast by -his declining rays on every object, I went through a plat of vines to a -favourite haunt of mine:--a little garden of the most fragrant roses, -with a spring under a rustic arch of grotto-work fringed with ivy. -Thousands of fish inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering species -which comes from China. This golden nation were leaping after insects as -I stood gazing upon the deep clear water, listening to the drops that -trickle from the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of a green alley, -you discover an oval basin, and in the midst of it an antique statue -full of that graceful languor so peculiarly Grecian. - -Whilst I was musing on the margin of the spring (for I returned to it -after casting a look upon the sculpture), the moon rose above the tufted -foliage of the terraces, which I descended by several flights of steps, -with marble balustrades crowned by vases of aloes. - -It was now seven o'clock, and all the world were going to my Lord T----'s, who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, with stuffed -birds, alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; but to say -truth, neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal of -slopping and sipping of tea going forward, and many dawdlers assembled. - -As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, and -conduct you to the Opera, which is really a striking spectacle. The -first soprano put my patience to severe proof, during the few minutes I -attended. You never beheld such a porpoise. If these animals were to -sing, I should conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how -often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of Quinto -Fabio. Everybody seemed as well contented as if there were no such thing -as good singing in the world, except a Neapolitan duchess who delighted -me by her vivacity. We took our fill of maledictions, and went home -equally pleased with each other for having mutually execrated both -singers and audience. - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.--Ascend one - of the hills celebrated by Dante.--View from its brow.--Chapel - designed by Michael Angelo.--Birth of a Princess.--The - christening.--Another evening visit in the woods of Boboli. - - -October 22nd, 1780. - -They say the air is worse this year at Rome than ever, and that it would -be madness to go thither during its malign influence. This was very bad -news indeed to one heartily tired of Florence, at least of its society. -Merciful powers! what a set harbour within its walls! * * * You may -imagine I do not take vehement delight in this company, though very -ingenious, praiseworthy, &c. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every -morning; and there grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, twisting -round a pine, upon whose branches I sit for hours. - -In the afternoon I am irresistibly attracted to the thickets of Boboli. -The other evening, however, I varied my walks, and ascended one of those -pleasant hills celebrated by Dante, which rise in the vicinity of the -city, and command a variegated scene of towers, villas, cottages, and -gardens. On the right, as you stand upon the brow, appears Fiesole with -its turrets and white houses, covering a rocky mount to the left, the -Val d'Arno lost in the haze of the horizon. A Franciscan convent stands -on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in antient cypresses, which -hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much of so gay a view. The -paved ascent leading up to their abode receives also a shade from the -cypresses which border it. Beneath this venerable avenue, crosses with -inscriptions are placed at certain distances, to mark the various -moments of Christ's passion; as when fainting under his burden he halted -to repose himself, or when he met his afflicted mother. - -Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed by M. A. -Buonarotti; further on, an antient church, encrusted with white marble, -porphyry, and verd antique. The interior presents a crowded assemblage -of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements and inlaid work without end. -The high altar is placed in a semicircular recess, which, like the apsis -of the church at Torcello, glitters with barbaric paintings on a gold -ground, and receives a fervid glow of light from five windows, filled up -with transparent marble clouded like tortoiseshell. A smooth polished -staircase leads to this mysterious place: another brought me to a -subterraneous chapel, supported by confused groups of variegated -pillars, just visible by the glimmer of lamps. - -Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which terminate -in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect preservation, but -totally deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill up the quadrangle, -whose walls are hung with superstitious pictures most singularly -fancied. The Jesuits were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem -to have had great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness -delighted me. - -Next day I was engaged by a very opposite scene, though much against my -will. Her Royal Highness the Grand Duchess having produced a princess in -the night, everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was -carried, along with the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and -ladies, to see the christening. After the Grand Duke had talked -politics for some time, the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown -open. Trumpets flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began -the ceremony at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk -pavilion, with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, though it was -noon-day, shone in every corner of the apartments. Two rows of pages, -gorgeously accoutred, and holding enormous torches, stood on each side -his Royal Highness, and made him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to -the sound of an indifferent band of music, though led by Nardini. The -poor old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint-like, led the Te -Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest followed him with thoughtless -expedition. - -The ceremony being despatched, (for his Royal Highness was in a mighty -fidget to shrink back into his beloved obscurity,) the crowd dispersed, -and I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord T----'s. - -Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself once more into the woods of -Boboli, and remained till it was night in their recesses. Really this -garden is enough to bewilder an enthusiastic spirit; there is something -so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of cypresses. When I -had mused for many an interesting hour amongst them, I emerged into the -orangery before the palace, which overlooks the largest district of the -town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads up to it, -certain bright lights glancing about the cupola of the Duomo and the -points of the highest towers. At first I thought them meteors, or those -illusive fires which often dance before the eye of my imagination; but -soon I was convinced of their reality; for in a few minutes the lantern -of the cathedral was lighted up by agents really invisible; whilst a -stream of torches ran along the battlements of the old castle which I -mentioned in a former letter. - -I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, my pleasure was -greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to rejoice -the hearts of his Royal Highness's loyal subjects, and bonfires blazing -in every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every denomination -drove me quickly to the theatre; but that was all glitter and glare. No -taste, no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, and rat's-tail candles. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.--Rocky Steeps.--Groves of Pine.--Vast - Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.--Reception at the Convent.--Wild - Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cell.--Conversation with - the holy Fathers.--Legendary Tales.--The consecrated Cleft.--The - Romitorio.--Extensive View of the Val d'Arno.--Return to Florence. - - -October 23rd, 1780. - -Do you recollect our evening rambles last year, in the valley at F----, -under the hill of pines? I remember we often fancied the scene like -Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever an occasion offered, to visit its deep -retirements. I had put off the execution of this pilgrimage from day to -day till the warm weather was gone; and the Florentines declared I -should be frozen if I attempted it. Everybody stared last night at the -Opera when I told them I was going to bury myself in fallen leaves, and -hear no music but their rustlings. - -Mr. ---- was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and -nothingness of Florence; so we finally determined upon our expedition, -and mounting our horses, set out this morning, happily without any -company but the spirit which led us along. We had need of inspiration, -since nothing else, I think, would have tempted us over such dreary, -uninteresting hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary -olive is their principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part of the -country, seems in a withering decrepit state, and may not unaptly be -compared to "an old woman clothed in grey." However, we did not suffer -the prospect to damp our enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for -Valombrosa. - -About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some oats, -and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren waste, -scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than I cared -for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my portion. -Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I reached down a few -purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, -and amused myself very pleasantly with them till the horses had -finished their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. We met with -nothing but rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as -half inclined us to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet amongst -the number of our evils. - -At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind blow -sharply from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of -groves of pine. A paved path leads across them, quite darkened by -boughs, which meeting over our heads cast a gloom and a chilness below -that would have stopped the proceedings of reasonable mortals, and sent -them to bask in the plain; but, being not so easily discomfited, we -threw ourselves boldly into the forest. It presented that boundless -confusion of tall straight stems I am so fond of, and exhaled a fresh -aromatic odour that revived my spirits. - -The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we -galloped on, and entered a vast amphitheatre of lawns and meadows -surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. The steep cliffs and -mountains which guard this retired valley are clothed with beech to -their very summits; and on their slopes, whose smoothness and verdure -equal our English pastures, were dispersed large flocks of sheep. The -herbage, moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never -been known to fade; thus, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by -the heats of summer, these upland meadows retain the freshness of -spring. I regretted not having visited them sooner, as autumn had -already made great havock amongst the foliage. Showers of leaves blew -full in our faces as we rode towards the convent, placed at an extremity -of the vale and sheltered by firs and chesnuts towering one above -another. - -Whilst we were alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and -received us into the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, -and tables spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six -overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed by the sleekness and rosy hue -of their countenances not totally to have despised this mortal -existence. - -My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order about -me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in his -pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; yet to -avoid this was scarcely within the circle of possibility. All dinner, -therefore, we endured an infinity of nonsensical questions; but as soon -as that was over, I lost no time in repairing to the lawns and forests. -The fathers made a shift to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly -as they were able, but were soon distanced. - -Now I found myself at liberty, and pursued a narrow path overhung by -rock, with bushy chesnuts starting from the crevices. This led me into -wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with moss: several -were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus had his -cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, listening to -the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed. The dry leaves chased -each other down the steeps on the edge of the torrents with hollow -rustlings, whilst the solemn wave of the forests above most perfectly -answered the idea I had formed of Valombrosa, - - ----where the Etrurian shades - High overarch'd embower. - -The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton to move -across his favourite valley, when the fathers arrived puffing and -blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of. - -"You have missed the way," cried the youngest; "the hermitage, with the -fine picture by Andra del Sarto, which all the English admire, is on -the opposite side of the wood: there! don't you see it on the point of -the cliff?" - -"Yes, yes," said I a little peevishly; "I wonder the devil has not -pushed it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick." - -"Satan," answered the old Pagod very dryly, "is full of malice; but -whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth to flow near the -hermitage is freed from his illusions." - -"Are they so?" replied I with a sanctified accent, "then I pray thee -conduct me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters." - -The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, "This is nothing -more than a heretic's whim." - -The senior set forwards with greater piety, and began some legendary -tales of the kind which my soul loveth. He pointed to a chasm in the -cliff, round which we were winding by a spiral path, where Gualbertus -used to sleep, and, turning himself towards the west, see a long -succession of saints and martyrs sweeping athwart the sky, and gilding -the clouds with far brighter splendours than the setting sun. Here he -rested till his last hour, when the bells of the convent beneath (which -till that moment would have made dogs howl had there been any within its -precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all the country -around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with singular -devotion, when, behold! light dawned, cherubim appeared, and birds -chirped although it was midnight. "Alas! alas! what would I not give to -witness such a spectacle, and read my prayer-book by the effulgence of -opening heaven!" - -However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the consecrated -cleft and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very penitential -couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world below, which lay -this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red and angry through -misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea. - -Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my -quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a snug -little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andra del -Sarto, which I should have examined more minutely had not the wild and -mountainous forest scenery possessed my whole attention. I just stayed -to taste the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran -eagerly down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and -entered a lawn of the smoothest turf grazed by sheep. Beyond this -opening rises a second, hemmed in with thickets; and still higher, a -third, whence a forest of young pines spires up into a lofty theatre -terminated by peaks, half concealed by a thick mantle of beech tinged -with ruddy brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking upward -to the sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my orisons to the -genius of the place, and prayed that I might once more return into its -bosom, and be permitted to bring you along with me, for surely such -meads, such groves, were formed for our enjoyment! - -This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of the -pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of -precipices, beneath whose base the whole Val d'Arno lies expanded. I -listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw wreaths of smoke rising -from the cottages, and viewed a vast tract of grey barren country, which -evening rendered still more desolate, bounded by the black mountain of -Radicofani. Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and -forest, the groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with -fiery red, for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, -produced this effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was -gloomy, and the rest of the prospect of a melancholy blue. - -Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the -eminences, and heard the sullen toll of a bell. The young boys of the -seminary were moving in a body to their dark enclosure, all dressed in -black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to ask them whether -the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; but a tall -spectre of a priest drove them along like a herd, and presently, the -gates opening, I saw them no more. - -The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the intervals -of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable screech owl to depress -my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to meet the -fathers, who came out to show me to my room, and entertain me with -various gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper appeared. - -Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; and -afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully upon -our viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was determined to -make a full stop at the organ, one of the most harmonious I ever played -upon; but placed in a deep recess, feebly lighted by lamps, not -calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. The monks, who had all -crowded into the loft in expectation of brisk jigs and lively overtures, -soon retired upon hearing a strain ten times more sorrowful than that to -which they were accustomed. I did not lament their departure, but played -on till our horses came to the gate. We mounted, wound back through the -grove of pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the -steeps, and, gaining the plains, galloped in a few hours to Florence. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Cathedral at Sienna.--A vaulted Chamber.--Leave Sienna.--Mountains - round Radicofani.--Hunting Palace of the Grand Dukes.--A grim - fraternity of Cats.--Dreary Apartment. - - -Sienna, October 27th, 1780. - -Here my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I got up much -earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder that our holy -ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, scrape it into tabernacles, -and chisel it into scripture stories. It would have cost them almost as -little trouble as the building in question, which, by many of the -Italian devotees to a purer style of architecture, is esteemed a -masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate absurdity. The front, -encrusted with alabaster, is worked into a million of fretted arches and -puzzling ornaments. There are statues without number, and relievos -without end or meaning. - -The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the roof -blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from it; and -a cornice running above the principal arcade, composed entirely of -bustos representing the whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from the -first Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan they say figured -amongst them, between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the -year 1600, when some authors have asserted she was turned out, at the -instance of Clement the Eighth, to make room for Zacharias the First. - -I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this -singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The pavement -demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent variety of -histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed somewhat in the style of -that hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the walls of our -ancestors. Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, -supported by polished pillars of granite, rising from lions' backs, -which serve as pedestals. In every corner of the place some glittering -chapel or other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi -family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect to design -and execution; but it wants effect, as seeming out of place in this -chaos of caprice and finery. - -From the church I entered a vaulted chamber, erected by the -Piccoliminis, filled with missals most exquisitely illuminated. The -paintings in fresco on the walls are rather barbarous, though executed -after the designs of the mighty Raphael; but then we must remember, he -had but just escaped from Pietro Perugino. - -Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, after -being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that ever pretended to be -made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough mountains round -Radicofani, about seven o'clock on a cold and dismal evening. Up we -toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length the inn upon its -summit. My heart sank when I entered a vast range of apartments, with -high black raftered roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of the -Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having risen, every -door began to shake, and every board substituted for a window to -clatter, as if the severe power who dwells on the topmost peak of -Radicofani, according to its village mythologists, was about to visit -his abode. - -My only spell to keep him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, -whose charitable gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker -flow. Yet, for some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to the right, -now to the left, up at the dark beams, and down the long passages, where -the pavement, broken up in several places, and earth newly strewn about, -seemed to indicate that something horrid was concealed below. - -A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in these -dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical scene of -a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing to explore them, -I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth which glowed with -embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly venturing to go to sleep -lest I should be suddenly roused from it by I know not what terrible -initiation into the mysteries of the place. - -Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just -mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted upon -their moving off faster than they had entered, and was surprised, when -midnight came, to hear nothing more than their doleful mewings echoed by -the hollow walls and arches. - - - - -LETTER XIX. - - Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal - territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of the Lake of - Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte Fiascone.--Inhabited - Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations of Rome. - - -Radicofani, October 28th, 1780. - -I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at -Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not -an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have -more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I -was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind, -and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and cornfields at -a distance. - -Near Aquapendente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs mantled with -chesnut copses and tufted ilex, the country grew varied and picturesque. -St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of -Bolsena, whose woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed -some of them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and -grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles -crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as Polemberg and -Bamboche introduce in their paintings. - -Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint -rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon -the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte -Fiascone. It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems -full of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with -fires. We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a -subterraneous people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we -drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; -and when we entered the town, all was total darkness. - -To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and -tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial -city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs -of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from -Monte Cavallo. - - - - -LETTER XX. - - Set out in the dark.--The Lago di Vico.--View of the spacious - plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.--Ancient - splendour.--Present silence and desolation.--Shepherds' - huts.--Wretched policy of the Papal Government.--Distant view of - Rome.--Sensations on entering the City.--The Pope returning from - Vespers.--St Peter's Colonnade.--Interior of the - Church.--Reveries.--A visionary scheme.--The Pantheon. - - -Rome, October 29th, 1780. - -We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; its waters -of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests catching the -rays of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the cupola of St. -Peter's upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. Nothing but a sea -of vapours was visible. - -At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show -themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of -empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, and -on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the view. It -was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, -and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander -theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for -encampments: levels for martial games, and room for that variety of -roads and causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. How many -triumphant legions have trodden these pavements! how many captive kings! -What throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface! -savage animals dragged from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors -of Indian princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore -the favour of the senate! - -During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such -illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is passed -away: silence and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over -with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only -objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed a few -black ill-favoured sheep straggling by the way's side, near a ruined -sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would have sacrificed to the -Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were the only -sounds which broke the general stillness, and observed the shepherds' -huts on its banks, propped up with broken pedestals and marble friezes. -I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and -began writing upon the sand and murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps the -dead listened to me from their narrow cells. The living I can answer -for: they were far enough removed. - -You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a -scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted -how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no blue -firmament to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants to -irritate my nerves and lend at least a momentary animation. Heath and a -greyish kind of moss are the sole vegetation which covers this endless -wilderness. Every slope is strewed with the relics of a happier period; -trunks of trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, -skulls and coins, are frequently dug up together. - -I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you any -novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly the environs of Rome -were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives to make -its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not just as -wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of celebrating? All is -doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as well -attempt proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay -dispersed around me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate -than another. Very likely the poor cottager, under whose roof I reposed, -is happier than the luxurious Roman upon the remains of whose palace, -perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet that Roman flourished in the purple -days of the empire, when all was wealth and splendour, triumph and -exultation. - -I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and -meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and -drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the days of -the Csars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. "When -you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome," said one of -the postilions: up we dragged; no city appeared. "From the next," cried -out a second; and so on from height to height did they amuse my -expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, -till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with green pastures on -their summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here -and there a white house, built in the antique style, with open porticos, -that received a faint gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the -clouds and tinting the meads below. Now domes and towers began to -discover themselves in the valley, and St. Peter's to rise above the -magnificent roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene -extended, till, winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our -view. - -Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending -the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an -avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, which leads to -the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the domes, the obelisk, the -long perspective of streets and palaces opening beyond, all glowing with -the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, -my favourite hour, surrounded by such objects. You can fancy me -ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which supports -Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St. Peter's in -performance of my vow. - -I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers. Trumpets -flourishing, and a troop of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. Angelo. -Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved on till the -full sweep of St. Peter's colonnade opened upon me. The edifice appears -to have been raised within the year, such is its freshness and -preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the beautiful -symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent, though irregular -courts of the Vatican towering over the colonnade, till, the sun sinking -behind the dome, I ran up the steps and entered the grand portal, which -was on the very point of being closed. - -I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred twilight -concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not distinguish any -particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the whole. No damp air or -foetid exhalation offended me. The perfume of incense was not yet -entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. I heard a door close with -the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished some faint -whisperings, but am ignorant whence they came. Several hundred lamps -twinkled round the high altar, quite lost in the immensity of the pile. -No other light disturbed my reveries but the dying glow still visible -through the western windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself -alone in this vast temple at so late an hour. Do you think I quitted it -without some revelation? - -It was almost eight o'clock before I issued forth, and, pausing a few -minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: then -traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa Medici, -under which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which my zeal and -exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited. - -October 30th. - -Immediately after breakfast I repaired again to St. Peter's, which even -exceeded the height of my expectations. I could hardly quit it. I wish -his Holiness would allow me to erect a little tabernacle within this -glorious temple. I should desire no other prospect during the winter; no -other sky than the vast arches glowing with golden ornaments, so lofty -as to lose all glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be -perfectly contented, unless I could obtain another tabernacle for you. -Thus established, we would take our evening walks on the field of -marble; for is not the pavement vast enough for the extravagance of the -appellation? Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend -the cupola, and look down on our little encampment below. At night I -should wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, -and so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light. Music should not -be wanting: at one time to breathe in the subterraneous chapels, at -another to echo through the dome. - -The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, no -cardinals: God forbid! We would have all the space to ourselves, and to -beings of our own visionary persuasion. - -I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with contriving -plans for its embellishment, as scarcely to have spirits left for the -Pantheon, which I visited late in the evening, and entered with a -reverence approaching to superstition. The whiteness of the dome -offended me, for, alas! this venerable temple has been whitewashed. I -slunk into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into -antiquity; then opened them again, tried to persuade myself the Pagan -gods were in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed -at coming to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with his -cross, and St. Agnes with her lamb, &c. Then I paced disconsolately into -the portico, which shows the name of Agrippa on its pediment. Fixed for -a few minutes against a Corinthian column, I lamented that no pontiff -arrived with victims and aruspices, of whom I might enquire, what, in -the name of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for you -must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think -Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their -representations of this venerable structure. I left the column, walked -to the centre of the temple, and there remained motionless as a statue. -Some architects have celebrated the effect of light from the opening -above, and pretended it to be distributed in such a manner as to give -those, who walk beneath, the appearance of mystic beings streaming with -radiance. If that were the case! I appeared, to be sure, a luminous -figure, and never stood I more in need of something to enliven me. - -My spirits were not mended upon returning home. I had expected a heap of -Venetian letters, but could not discover one. I had received no -intelligence from England for many a tedious day; and for aught I can -tell to the contrary, you may have been dead these three weeks. I think -I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, which I try lustily to persuade -myself communicate with the lower world; and perhaps I may find some -letter there from you lying upon a broken sarcophagus, dated from the -realms of Night, and giving an account of your descent into her bosom. -Yet, I pray continually, notwithstanding my curiosity to learn what -passes in the dark regions beyond the tomb, that you will remain a few -years longer on our planet; for what would become of me should I lose -sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you can, and let us -have the delight of dozing a little more of this poor existence away -together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant dreams. - - - - -LETTER XXI. - - Leave Rome for Naples.--Scenery in the vicinity of - Rome.--Albano.--Malaria.--Veletri.--Classical associations.--The - Circean Promontory.--Terracina.--Ruined Palace.--Mountain - Groves.--Rock of Circe.--The Appian Way.--Arrive at Mola di - Gaieta.--Beautiful prospect.--A Deluge.--Enter Naples by night, - during a fearful Storm.--Clear Morning.--View from my - window.--Courtly Mob at the Palace.--The Presence Chamber.--The - King and his Courtiers.--Party at the House of Sir W. H.--Grand - Illumination at the Theatre of St. Carlo.--Marchesi. - - -November 1st, 1780. - -Though you find I am not yet snatched away from the earth, according to -my last night's bodings, I was far too restless and dispirited to -deliver my recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a mighty day of gala at -Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving Rome, and indulging my -roving disposition. After spending my morning at St. Peter's, we set off -about four o'clock, and drove by the Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, -whose monks were all busied in preparing the skeletons of their order, -to figure by torch-light in the evening. St. John's of Lateran -astonished me. I could not help walking several times round the obelisk, -and admiring the noble space in which the palace is erected, and the -extensive scene of towers and aqueducts discovered from the platform in -front. - -We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains which -surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of walls and -arches, seldom interrupted, stretch across them. Sometimes, indeed, a -withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of every blast that sweeps -the champagne, breaks their uniformity. Between the aqueducts to the -left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of ploughed lands, dark and -desolate, are visible, the corn not being yet sprung up. On the right, -several groups of ruined fanes and sepulchres diversify the levels, with -here and there a garden or woody enclosure. Such objects are scattered -over the landscape, which towards the horizon bulges into gentle -ascents, and, rising by degrees, swells at length into a chain of -mountains, which received the pale gleams of the sun setting in watery -clouds. - -By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, -sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate them, -for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and began -breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and recollecting -a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we advanced, not -without fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall asleep when -arrived there. - -November 2nd. - -I arose at day-break, and, forgetting fevers and mortalities, ran into a -level meadow without the town, whilst the horses were putting to the -carriage. Why should I calumniate the pearly transparent air? it seemed -at least purer than any I had before inhaled. Being perfectly alone, and -not discovering any trace of the neighbouring city, I fancied myself -existing in the ancient days of Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his -woods before the evening. But, instead of those shrill clamours which -used to echo through the thickets when Pan joined with mortals in the -chase, I heard the rumbling of our carriage, and the cursing of -postilions. Mounting a horse I flew before them, and seemed to catch -inspiration from the breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of -precipices, in whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed -their life; then to the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliff, so -famous for Circe's incantations, and the whole line of coasts, which was -once covered with her forests. - -Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sun-beams began to shoot -athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their -shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dew-drops. The sea brightened, and -the Circean promontory soon glowed with purple. All day we kept winding -through this enchanted country. Towards evening Terracina appeared -before us, in a bold romantic scite; house above house, and turret -looking over turret, on the steeps of a mountain, enclosed with -mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined terraces of a palace; one of -those, perhaps, which the luxurious Romans inhabited during the summer, -when so free and lofty an exposition (the sea below, with its gales and -murmurs) must have been delightful. Groves of orange and citron hang on -the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, whose bright red flowers, -illuminated by the sun, had a magic splendour. A palm-tree, growing on -the highest crag, adds not a little to its singular appearance. Being -the largest I had yet seen, and clustered with fruit, I climbed up the -rocks to take a sketch of it; and looking down upon the beach and glassy -plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial: - - O nemus! O fontes! solidumque madentis aren - Littus, et quoreis splendidus Anxur aquis! - -Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the rock of Circe, -which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the continent by a -very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an island. The roar of the -waves lashing the base of the precipices, might still be thought the -howl of savage monsters; but where are those woods which shaded the dome -of the goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, and but a few, -are the sole remains of this once impenetrable vegetation; yet even -these I longed to visit, such was my predilection for the spot. - -Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, by -a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian Way, we drove under an -enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch tower, and -cut into arsenals and magazines. Day closed just as we got beyond it, -and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw fires afar off in -the bay; some twinkling on the coast, others upon the waves, and heard -the murmur of voices; for the night was still and solemn, like that of -Cajetas's funeral. I looked anxiously on a sea, where the heroes of the -Odyssey and neid had sailed to fulfil their mystic destinies. - -Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Gaeta. The boats were just coming -in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought such fish -as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged neas and Ulysses. - - -November 3rd. - -The morning was soft, but hazy. I walked in a grove of orange trees, -white with blossoms, and at the same time glowing with fruit. The spot -sloped pleasantly toward the sea, and here I loitered till the horses -were ready, then set off on the Appian, between hedges of myrtle and -aloes. We observed a variety of towns, with battlemented walls and -ancient turrets, crowning the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by -wilds, and rude uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds -its peaceful course through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with -the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the rocks I have just -mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil's panegyric -of Italy into my mind: - - Tot congesta manu prruptis oppida saxis - Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros. - -As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds -covered the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain as -floated the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius disappeared -just after we had discovered it. At four o'clock darkness universally -prevailed, except when a livid glare of lightning presented momentary -glimpses of the bay and mountains. We lighted torches, and forded -several torrents almost at the hazard of our lives. The plains of Aversa -were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not half so much -scared as their masters, who ran about raving and ranting like Indians -during the eclipse of the moon. I knew Vesuvius had often put their -courage to proof, but little thought of an inundation occasioning such -commotions. - -For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead of -entering Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores by -moonlight--instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged with -people and animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror through -dark streets totally deserted, every creature being shut up in their -houses, and we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing torrents, and the -fall of fragments beaten down by their violence. Our inn, like every -other habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while -before we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. All night the -waves roared round the rocky foundations of a fortress beneath my -windows, and the lightning played clear in my eyes. - - -November 4th. - -Peace was restored to nature in the morning, but every mouth was full of -the dreadful accidents which had happened in the night. The sky was -cloudless when I awoke, and such was the transparence of the atmosphere -that I could clearly discern the rocks, and even some white buildings on -the island of Caprea, though at the distance of thirty miles. A large -window fronts my bed, and its casements being thrown open, gives me a -vast prospect of ocean uninterrupted, except by the peaks of Caprea and -the Cape of Sorento. I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level -waters, and listening to the confused voices of the fishermen, passing -and repassing in light skiffs, which came and disappeared in an instant. - -Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till -then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams,) I leaned -over its rails and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue ther, -with all that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered about its -base; then looked down into the street, deep below, thronged with people -in holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. The -shrubby, variegated shore of Posilipo drew my attention to the opposite -side of the bay. It was on those very rocks, under those tall pines, -Sannazaro was wont to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, composing -his marine eclogues. It is there he still sleeps; and I wished to have -gone immediately and strewed coral over his tomb, but I was obliged to -check my impatience and hurry to the palace in form and gala. - -A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with -lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but bows and salutations -were going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, -and which a multitude of prelates and friars were ascending with awkward -pomposity. I jostled along to the presence chamber, where his Majesty -was dining alone in a circular enclosure of fine clothes and smirking -faces. The moment he had finished, twenty long necks were poked forth, -and it was a glorious struggle amongst some of the most decorated who -first should kiss his hand, the great business of the day. Everybody -pressed forward to the best of their abilities. His Majesty seemed to -eye nothing but the end of his nose, which is doubtless a capital -object. - -Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ in -opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be -happy, in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, and a -pigeon to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is better -contented than Solomon in all his glory, and will never discover, like -that sapient sovereign, that all is vanity and vexation of spirit. - -His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and differ -little in the character of their physiognomies from the most savage -nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, had it not -been for their dresses and European finery. - -You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, to -return to Sir W. H.'s, where an interesting group of lovely women, -literati, and artists, were assembled--Gagliani and Cyrillo, Aprile, -Milico, and Deamicis--the determined Santo Marco, and the more -nymph-like modest-looking, though not less dangerous, Belmonte. Gagliani -happened to be in full story, and vied with his countryman Polichinello, -not only in gesticulation and loquacity, but in the excessive -licentiousness of his narrations. He was proceeding beyond all bounds of -decency and decorum, at least according to English notions, when Lady -H.[8] sat down to the pianoforte. Her plaintive modulations breathed a -far different language. No performer that ever I heard produced such -soothing effects; they seemed the emanations of a pure, uncontaminated -mind, at peace with itself and benevolently desirous of diffusing that -happy tranquillity around it; these were modes a Grecian legislature -would have encouraged to further the triumph over vice of the most -amiable virtue. - -The evening was passing swiftly away, and I had almost forgotten there -was a grand illumination at the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a -number of dark streets, we suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose -seven rows of boxes one above the other blazed with tapers. I never -beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so pompous a decoration as covered -the stage. Marchesi was singing in the midst of all these splendours -some of the poorest music imaginable, with the clearest and most -triumphant voice, perhaps, in the universe. - -It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or -discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its size -and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of swarthy ill-favoured -beings, in gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The -court being present, a tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment -his Majesty withdrew (which great event took place at the beginning of -the second act) every tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and -hubbub filled up the rest of the entertainment. - - - - -LETTER XXII. - - View of the coast of Posilipo.--Virgil's tomb.--Superstition of the - Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.--Arial situation.--A grand - scene. - - -November 6th, 1780. - -Till to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea covered with mists, -and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I have not yet been able to -mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in order to take a general view -of the town. - -At length a bright gleam of sunshine summoned me to the broad terrace of -Chiaja, which commands the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew -towards it, and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) soon -reached the entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst the -crags that lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and vines grow -luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and its fresh yellow colours, -variegated with ivy, have a beautiful effect. To the right, a grove of -pines spring from the highest pinnacles: on the left, bay and chesnut -conceal the tomb of Virgil placed on the summit of a cliff which impends -over the opening of the grotto, and is fringed with vegetation. Beneath -are several wide apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to -caverns sixty or seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who -were employed in quarrying, made a strange but not absolutely -unharmonious din with their tools and their voices. - -Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone -immediately beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking -down the long and solemn perspective terminated by a speck of gray -uncertain light, venerated a work which some old chroniclers have -imagined as ancient as the Trojan war. It was here the mysterious race -of the Cimmerians performed their infernal rites, and it was this -excavation perhaps which led to their abode. - -The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical an -origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have been -formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Addison very justly -observes, is better known at Naples in his magical character than as -the author of the neid. This strange infatuation most probably arose -from the vicinity of the tomb in which his ashes are supposed to have -been deposited; and which, according to popular tradition, was guarded -by those very spirits who assisted in constructing the cave. But -whatever may have given rise to these ideas, certain it is they were not -confined to the lower ranks alone. King Robert,[9] a wise though far -from poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great -solemnity to the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the grotto, very -gravely asked him, whether he did not adopt the general belief, and -conclude this stupendous passage derived its origin from Virgil's -powerful incantations? The answer, I think, may easily be conjectured. - -When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and -trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I -retreated without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path -which led me, after some windings and turnings, along the brink of the -precipice, across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks which -shelters Virgil's tomb, most venerably mossed over and more than half -concealed by bushes and vegetation. The clown who conducted me remained -aloof at awful distance, whilst I sat commercing with the manes of my -beloved poet, or straggled about the shrubbery which hangs directly -above the mouth of the grot. - -Advancing to the edge of the rock, I saw crowds of people and carriages, -diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the mountain and -disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the windings of its road. -Clambering high above the cavern, I hazarded my neck on the top of one -of the pines, and looked contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that -were so busily moving to and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have -wished, but the sea-breezes fanned me in my arial situation, which -commanded the grand sweep of the bay, varied by convents, palaces, and -gardens mixed with huge masses of rock and crowned by the stately -buildings of the Carthusians and fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering -blue sea to this perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom and -Vesuvius breathing forth a white column of smoke into the ther, and you -will then have a scene upon which I gazed with delight, for more than -an hour, almost forgetting that I was perched upon the head of a pine -with nothing but a frail branch to uphold me. However, I descended -alive, as Virgil's genii, I am resolved to believe, were my protectors. - - - - -LETTER XXIII. - - A ramble on the shore of Baii.--Local traditions.--Cross the - bay.--Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.--Wondrous - reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.--The Dead Lake.--Wild - scene.--Beautiful meadow. Uncouth rocks.--An unfathomable - gulph.--Sadness induced by the wild appearance of the - place.--Conversation with a recluse.--Her fearful - narration.--Melancholy evening. - - -November 8th, 1780. - -This morning I awoke in the glow of sunshine--the air blew fresh and -fragrant--never did I feel more elastic and enlivened. A brisker flow of -spirits than I had for many a day experienced, animated me with a desire -of rambling about the shore of Baii, and creeping into caverns and -subterraneous chambers. Off I set along the Chiaja, and up strange paths -which impend over the grotto of Posilipo, amongst the thickets mentioned -a letter or two ago; for in my present buoyant humour I disdained -ordinary roads, and would take paths and ways of my own. A society of -kids did not understand what I meant by intruding upon their precipices; -and scrambling away, scattered sand and fragments upon the good people -that were trudging along the pavement below. - -I went on from pine to pine and thicket to thicket, upon the brink of -rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir William had -recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that had passed in the -neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over which we were -travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat down by us on -little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, scarcely knowing which -way caprice had led me. My mind was full of the tales of the place, and -glowed with a vehement desire of exploring the world beyond the grot. I -longed to ascend the promontory of Misenus, and follow the same dusky -route down which the Sibyl conducted neas. - -With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses -opened to views of the Baian sea with the little isles of Niscita and -Lazaretto, lifting themselves out of the waters. Procita and Ischia -appeared at a distance invested with that purple bloom so inexpressibly -beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I hailed the -prospect, and blessed the transparent air that gave me life and vigour -to run down the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain to -Pozzuoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue ocean, by the -remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, adorned the bay in Roman -ages, crowned by vast lengths of slender pillars; pavilions at their -extremities and taper cypresses spiring above their balustrades: this -character of villa occurs very frequently in the paintings of -Herculaneum. - -We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast near some -fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced -into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with -shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant -foliage, chesnut, bay and ilex, that shelter the ruins of sepulchral -chambers. No parties of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I -had all the land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into -its recesses, with the importance of a discoverer. What a variety of -narrow paths, between banks and shades, did I wildly follow! my savage -laughing loud at my odd gestures and useless activity. He wondered I did -not scrape the ground for medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, -like other inquisitive young travellers that had gone before me. - -After ascending some time, I followed him into the wondrous[10] -reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, when anchored in -the neighbouring bay. A noise of trickling waters prevailed throughout -this grand labyrinth of solid vaults and arches, that had almost lulled -me to sleep as I rested myself on the celandine which carpets the floor; -but curiosity urging me forward, I gained the upper air; walked amongst -woods a few minutes, and then into grots and dismal excavations (prisons -they call them) which began to weary me. - -After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at last -reached an eminence that commanded the Mare Morto, and Elysian fields -trembling with reeds and poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem of -eternal tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants seemed -fixed on its margin, their shadows reflected on the water. Turning from -the lake I espied a rock at about a league distant, whose summit was -clad with verdure, and finding this to be the promontory of Misenus, I -immediately set my face to that quarter. - -We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured -generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, -however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by -neat hedges of cane, and a variety of herbs and pulses and Indian corn -seemed to flourish in the inclosures. Insensibly we began to leave the -cultivated lands behind us, and to lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, -to all appearance, no mortal had ever trodden. Here were no paths, no -inclosures; a primeval rudeness characterized the whole scene. - -After forcing our way about a mile, through glades of shrubs and briars, -we entered a lawn-like opening at the base of the cliff which takes its -name from Misenus. The poets of the Augustan age would have celebrated -such a meadow with the warmest raptures, and peopled its green expanse -with all the sylvan demi-gods of their beautiful mythology. Here were -springs issuing from rocks of pumice, and grassy hillocks partially -concealed by thickets of bay. - - Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato - Candida purpureis mista papaveribus. - -But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead of -reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts dissolved -in attaining its summit. The sun darted upon my head, I wished to avoid -its immediate influence; no tree was near; the pleasant valley lay below -at a considerable depth, and it was a long way to descend to it. Looking -round and round, I spied something like a hut, under a crag on the edge -of a dark fissure. Might I avail myself of its covert? My conductor -answered in the affirmative, and added that it was inhabited by a good -old woman, who never refused a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to -refresh a weary traveller. - -Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of -stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help deviating a -few steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth rocks which rose -frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their appearance was truly -formidable, bristled over with sharp-spired dwarf aloes, such as -Lucifer himself might be supposed to have sown. Indeed I knew not -whether I was not approaching some gate that leads to his abode, as I -drew near a gulph (the fissure lately mentioned) and heard the deep -hollow murmurs of the gusts which were imprisoned below. The savage, my -guide, shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old woman of my coming. -I felt strangely, and stared around me, and but half liked my situation. - -In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. "You are -welcome," said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect than I had -heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, and she seemed of -a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys. My savage -treated her with peculiar deference. She had just given him some bread, -with which he retired to a respectful distance bowing to the earth. I -caught the mode, and was very obsequious, thinking myself on the point -of experiencing a witch's influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight -into the volume of futurity. She smiled at my agitation and kept -beckoning me into the cottage. - -"Now," thought I to myself, "I am upon the verge of an adventure." I saw -nothing, however, but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen -bowls, and a wooden crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: this my -hostess perceived, and immediately kindling a fire in an inner part of -the hovel, brought out some warm water to refresh my feet, and set some -milk and chesnuts before me. This patriarchal attention was by no means -indifferent after my tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to the door -which fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the sea, of a deep -cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also was darkening apace with -storms. Sadness came over me like a cloud, and I looked up to the old -woman for consolation. - -"And you too are sorrowful, young stranger," said she, "that come from -the gay world! how must I feel, who pass year after year in these lonely -mountains?" I answered that the weather affected me, and my spirits were -exhausted by the walk. - -All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy -earnestness that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine myself -in some fatal habitation, - - Where more is meant than meets the ear. - -"Your features," said she, "are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate -young person, who, in this retirement...." The tears began to fall as -she pronounced these words; my curiosity was fired. "Tell me," continued -I, "what you mean; who was this youth for whom you are so interested? -and why did he seclude himself in this wild region? Your kindness to him -might no doubt have alleviated, in some measure, the horrors of the -place; but may God defend me from passing the night near such a gulph! I -would not trust myself in a despairing moment." - -"It is," said she, "a place of horrors. I tremble to relate what has -happened on this very spot; but your manner interests me, and though I -am little given to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips concerning -the secrets of yonder fatal chasm. - -"I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better days. In -my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few years they withered -away; no matter by what accident. I am not going to talk much of -myself. Have patience a few moments! A series of unfortunate events -reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this desert, where, from -rearing goats and making their milk into cheese, by a different method -than is common in the Neapolitan state, I have, for about thirty years, -prolonged a sorrowful existence. My silent grief and constant retirement -had made me appear to some a saint, and to others a sorceress. The -slight knowledge I have of plants has been exaggerated, and, some years -back, the hours I gave up to prayer, and the recollection of former -friends, lost to me for ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and -the ignorant. But soon I sank into obscurity: my little recipes were -disregarded, and you are the first stranger who, for these twelve months -past, has visited my abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever -remained inviolate! - -"It is now three-and-twenty years," and she looked upon some characters -cut on the planks of the cottage, "since I was sitting by moonlight, -under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes fixed on the ocean, my -mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard a step, and -starting up, a figure stood before me. It was a young man, in a rich -habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the utmost terror. I -knew not what to think of this sudden apparition. 'Mother,' said he with -faltering accents, 'let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not up -to those who thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take all, all!' - -"Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; the youth -stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the rocks; the -wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. I took courage, -and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. 'Oh! thank you, thank -you!' answered he, and pressed my hand. He shared my scanty provision. - -"Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day) sleep closed my -eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was set, but I heard my -unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed him not. Morning dawned, -and he was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled out of his closed -eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan cheeks. I had been too -wretched myself not to respect the sorrows of another: neglecting -therefore my accustomed occupations, I drove away the flies that buzzed -around his temples. His breast heaved high with sighs, and he cried -loudly in his sleep for mercy. - -"The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like one that -had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face with his -hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. 'Oh, mother!' he -exclaimed, 'I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the cause of -innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!' My blood curdled to -hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and behold such agonising -sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked the sting of conscience -urging him to disclose what I am going to relate. - -"It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and luxuries of -Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with a thousand -lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to improve. -Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object of his desires, -he passed his first years in roving from one extravagance to another, -but as yet there was no crime in his caprices. - -"At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make their idol -the slave of an unbridled passion. He had a friend, who from his birth -had been devoted to his interest, and placed all his confidence in him. -This friend loved to distraction a young creature, the most graceful of -her sex (as I can witness), and she returned his affection. In the -exultation of his heart he showed her to the wretch whose tale I am -about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She too caught fire at his -glances. They languished--they consumed away--they conversed, and his -persuasive language finished what his guilty glances had begun. - -"Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal a thought, -however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth in the tenderest -manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him so loathsome, that -unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, he menaced the -life of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. Coolness and -moderation were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he found himself -treated with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to the heart, he -wandered about for some time like one entranced. Meanwhile the nuptials -were preparing, and the lovely girl he had perverted found ways to let -him know she was about to be torn from his embraces. - -"He raved like a demoniac, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a -malignant wretch who sold the most inveterate poisons. These he infused -into a cup of pure iced water and presented to his friend, and to his -own too fond confiding father, who soon after they had drunk the fatal -potion began evidently to pine away. He marked the progress of their -dissolution with a horrid firmness, he let the moment pass beyond which -all antidotes were vain. His friend expired; and the young criminal, -though he beheld the dews of death hang on his parent's forehead, yet -stretched not forth his hand. In a short space the miserable father -breathed his last, whilst his son was sitting aloof in the same chamber. - -"The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, the pangs of -remorse. His agitations passed not unnoticed. He was watched: suspicions -beginning to unfold he took alarm, and one evening escaped; but not -without previously informing the partner of his crimes which way he -intended to flee. Several pursued; but the inscrutable will of -Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed to behold the effects -of celestial vengeance. - -"Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from the youth. -I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. One whole -day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather than be near -an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now survey that slender -form and those flowing tresses, which had interested me before so much -in his behalf! - -"No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than sullenly -retiring to yonder rock he sat careless of the sun and scorching winds; -for it was now the summer solstice. He was equally heedless of the -unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were augmented; and I -meditated several times to abandon my hovel and fly to the next village; -but a power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified my -mind. - -"I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called at the -wicket of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I arose, and saw a -peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely muffled up, and -casting her eyes on the ground. My heart misgave me. I thought this was -the very maid who had been the cause of such atrocious wickedness. Nor -were my conjectures ill-founded. Regardless of the clown who stood by in -stupid astonishment, she fell to the earth and bathed my hand with -tears. Her trembling lips with difficulty enquired after the youth; and, -as she spoke, a glow of conscious guilt lightened up her pale -countenance. - -"The full recollection of her lover's crimes shot through my memory. I -was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but, she clung to my -garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so full of misery, -that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity of the cliff -where the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the sea. His eye was -rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon the object for whose sake -he had doomed himself to perdition. - -"Far be it from me to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness with -which they sought each other's embraces. I indignantly turned my head -away; and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving -in my mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision for -my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned homewards by the light -of the moon which shone serenely in the heavens. Almost the first object -her beams discovered was the guilty maid sustaining the head of her -lover, who had fainted through weakness and want of nourishment. I -fetched some dry bread, and dipping it in milk laid it before them. -Having performed this duty I set open the door of my hut, and retiring -to a neighbouring cavity, there stretched myself on a heap of leaves and -offered my prayers to Heaven. - -"A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into my fancy. The -shadow of leaves that chequered the entrance to the grot, seemed to -assume in my distempered imagination the form of ugly reptiles, and I -repeatedly shook my garments. The flow of the distant surges was -deepened by my apprehensions into distant groans: in a word, I could not -rest; but issuing from the cavern as hastily as my trembling knees would -allow, paced along the edge of the precipice. An unaccountable impulse -would have hurried my steps, yet such was my terror and shivering, that -unable to advance to my hut or retreat to the cavern, I was about to -shield myself from the night in a sandy crevice, when a loud shriek -pierced my ear. My fears had confused me; I was in fact near my hovel -and scarcely three paces from the brink of the cavern: it was thence the -cries proceeded. - -"Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was newly -crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended by one -foot to a branch of juniper that grew several feet down: thus dreadfully -did he hang over the gulph from the branch bending with his weight. His -features were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his -screams became so shrill and terrible that I lost all power of affording -assistance. Fixed, I stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who -incessantly cried out, 'O God! O Father! save me if there be yet mercy! -save me, or I sink into the abyss!' - -"I am convinced he did not see me; for not once did he implore my help. -His voice grew faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, the loose thong of -leather, which had entangled itself in the branches by which he hung -suspended, gave way, and he fell into utter darkness. I sank to the -earth in a trance; during which a sound like the rush of pennons -assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was bearing off his soul; -but when I lifted up my eyes nothing stirred; the stillness that -prevailed was awful. - -"The moon hanging low over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I -perceived some one coming down that white cliff you see before you; and -I soon heard the voice of the young woman calling aloud on her guilty -lover. She stopped. She repeated again and again her exclamation; but -there was no reply. Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the path, and -now I saw her on the promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with -her glances every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she flew -to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed the -fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my countenance. I -continued pointing to the chasm; she trembled not; her tears could not -flow; but she divined the meaning. 'He is lost!' said she; 'the earth -has swallowed him! but, as I have shared with him the highest joy, so -will I partake his torments. I will follow: dare not to hinder me.' - -"Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside me; and, -clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look on the -hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness that told me she -was bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on the -ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover's temples, -she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, thrust it -into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the last act of despair -and miserable passion, she threw herself, with a furious leap, into the -gulph. - -"To its margin I crawled on my knees, and there did I remain in the most -dreadful darkness; for now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured with -storms, and a tempestuous blast ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick -upon me, and the lightning, in clear and frequent flashes, gave me -terrifying glimpses of yonder accursed chasm. - -"Stranger, dost thou believe in our Redeemer? in his most holy mother? -in the tenets of our faith?" I answered with reverence, but said her -faith and mine were different. "Then," continued the aged woman, "I will -not declare before a heretic what were the visions of that night of -vengeance!" She paused; I was silent. - -After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she resumed her -narrative. "Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, and it was -late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous clouds. I -was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs began to -brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against me. Then -did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all human beings the -most abject and miserable. How different did I feel myself from those, -fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, and driven for ever from the -morning! - -"Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some grave and -ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, -about the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with every -dreadful particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse concerning -them was expressly stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for -their souls." - -With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her -singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph to call -my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed to think, from the -paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some gloomy prediction, -and shook his head, when I turned round to bid my old hostess adieu! It -was a melancholy evening, and I could not refrain from tears, whilst, -winding through the defiles of the rocks, the sad scenes which had -passed amongst them recurred to my memory. - -Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I rambled a -few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The last streaks of -light were quivering on the waters when I stepped into the bark, and -wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, some of -whose inhabitants came forth with torches to light us home. - - - - -LETTER XXIV. - - The Tyrol Mountains.--Intense cold.--Delight on beholding human - habitations. - - -Augsburg, 20th January, 1781. - -For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling -in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of pine -through which our route conducted us. We were often obliged to travel by -moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful aspect of the Tyrol -mountains buried in snow. - -I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though prompted -by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should interrupt -the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these boundless -solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, for aught I -know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed on without -perceiving the slightest hint of their existence. - -I never before felt so much pleasure by discovering a smoke rising from -a cottage, or hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not have -supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or three fur -caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their concealments. I wish -you had been with me, exploring this savage region: wrapped up in our -bear-skins, we should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, -perhaps, into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the -heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by dwarfs, -and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad scheme to sleep away five -or six years to come, since every hour affairs are growing more and more -turbulent. Well, let them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the -shades of our thickets. - - - - -SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. - - - - -The following letters, written during a second excursion, are added, on -account of their affinity to some of the preceding. - - - - -LETTER I. - - First day of Summer.--A dismal Plain.--Gloomy entrance to - Cologne.--Labyrinth of hideous edifices.--Hotel of Der Heilige - Geist. - - -Cologne, 28th May, 1782. - -This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses blow, -butterflies are on the wing, and I have spirits enough to write to you. -We have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like the slough -of Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal plain, -apparently boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and then a -blue meteor glided along the morass which lay before us. - -After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour's time -discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and crowned -by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and knocked; no one answered. -We repeated our knocks; the gate returned a hollow sound; the horses -coughed, their riders blew their horns. At length the bars fell, and we -entered--by what means I am ignorant, for no human being appeared. - -A labyrinth of narrow winding streets, dark as the vaults of a -cathedral, opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least twenty -minutes, between lofty mansions with grated windows and strange -galleries projecting one over another, from which depended innumerable -uncouth figures and crosses, in iron-work, swinging to and fro with the -wind. At the end of this gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen -feet wide, I am certain; the houses still loftier than those just -mentioned, the windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not -what else to call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights -glimmering in the highest stories, and arches on the right and left, -which seemed to lead into retired courts and deeper darkness. - -Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as I -hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went out -at the same arch through which we had entered. This procession seemed at -first very mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our -postilions, who confessed they had lost their way. A council was held -amongst them in form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of -hideous edifices, habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a -creature stirred; though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all -the vaults and arches. - -Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of a -casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an -apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Enter the Tyrol.--Picturesque scenery.--Village of - Nasseriet.--World of boughs.--Forest huts.--Floral abundance. - - -Inspruck, June 4, 1782. - -No sooner had we passed Fuessen than we entered the Tyrol, a country of -picturesque wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I delight -in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs gushed out on every side, -overhung by luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day was mild, though -overcast, and a soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, above which rise -mountains that bear plains of snow into the clouds. - -At night we lay at Nasseriet, a village buried amongst savage -promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into -smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, -whose delicate foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. -Flights of birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran -delighted into this world of boughs, whilst Cozens sat down to draw the -huts which are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover -themselves amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner. - -These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas of -pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from whence -they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with flowers. -Gentians predominated, brighter than ultramarine; here and there -auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed upon tufts of -ranunculus. Bushes of phillyrea were very frequent, the sun shining full -on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away swiftly in these pleasant -groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, a tower of leaves and -branches. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.--Shore of - Fusina.--A stormy sky.--Draw near to Venice.--Its deserted - appearance.--Visit to Madame de R.--Cesarotti. - - -Padua, June 14th, 1782. - -Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding -Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever man -was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the Brenta, -into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. -Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and -palaces, seemed flying after each other, so rapid was our motion. - -After a few hours' confinement between close steeps, the scene opened to -the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely time to look -before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, the Lagunes -tinted like the opal, and the islands of a glowing flame-colour. The -mountains of the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy grey, -and innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their blackness. -The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up in the tempestuous -clouds. - -In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising out -of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable bells to my -ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, and recognised -those solemn palaces, with their lofty arcades and gloomy arches, -beneath which I had so often sat, the scene of many a strange adventure. - -The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town -appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the Place of -St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and forwards, -opposite the Ducal Palace, by moon-light. They are building a spacious -quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San -Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following the -wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening to the -waters dashing against marble steps. - -I closed my evening at my friend Madame de Rosenberg's, where I met -Cesarotti, who read to us some of the most affecting passages in his -Fingal, with all the intensity of a poet, thoroughly persuaded that into -his own bosom the very soul of Ossian had been transfused. - -Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season of -June, and the canals much ruffled; but I was determined to visit the -Lido once more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines in the -garden of the Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, -which was very poetically buffeted by the waves. - -Traversing the desert of locusts,[11] I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged -into its agitated waters. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to -such a degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to -thread its labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber -and oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandise, the perfume -of coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics -sitting cross-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars of -Constantinople. - -It is certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series of eastern -ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark's a mosque, and -the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of arabesque saloons, -embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Excursion to Mirabello.--Beauty of the road thither.--Madame de - R.'s wild-looking niece.--A comfortable Monk's nest. - - -Padua, June 19th, 1782. - -The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony's bells in full chime. A -shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and -grateful, that Madame de R. and myself determined to seize the -opportunity and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti had -inhabited, situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles from -Padua. - -Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, overhung -by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found myself in the -midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with clover, and shaded -by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I gathered the fruit, and -grew cooler and happier every instant. - -We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where my friend's little -wild-looking niece pitched her pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs -of Bertoni's Armida. That enchantress might have raised her palace in -this situation; and, had I been Rinaldo, I certainly should not very -soon have abandoned it. - -After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which sprang -from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and villas; tall -cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out of a sea of -corn and vine. - -Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant -Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards -Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chesnuts, where the -peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, to a mountain, crowned -by a circular grove of fir and cypress. - -In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; -perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, a -thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream of. - -Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the grove, -and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to pass the -night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant prospect. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Rome.--Stroll to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.--A grand - Rinfresco.--The Egyptian Lionesses.--Illuminations. - - -Rome, 29th June 1782. - -It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you know -how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This evening, -instead of parading the Corso with the puppets in blue and silver coats, -and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal this, and -dotting my head to Abb t'other, I strolled to the Coliseo and scrambled -amongst its arches. Then bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I -passed under the Arch of Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite -deserted, the world, thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in -coffee-houses, or staring at a few painted boards, patched up before the -Colonna palace, where, by the by, to-night is a grand _rinfresco_ for -all the dolls and doll-fanciers of Rome. I heard their buzz at a -distance; that was enough for me! - -Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, -and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. This -animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured out to me -the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled Romulus and -his brother. - -About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet on -the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of the Villa Medici; before, -lies roof beyond roof, and dome beyond dome: these are dimly discovered; -but do not you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling with -illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, that -structure of fire must be visionary. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - The Negroni Garden.--Its solitary and antique appearance.--Stately - Porticos of the Lateran.--Dreary Scene. - - -Rome, 30th June 1782. - -As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but -finding it haunted by pompous people, nay, even by the Spanish -Ambassador, and several red-legged Cardinals, I moved off to the Negroni -garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets of jasmine, and -wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress totally neglected, -and almost impassable through the luxuriance of the vegetation; on every -side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and altars sacred to the -Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain the Manes must love. -The air was filled with the murmurs of water, trickling down basins of -porphyry, and losing itself amongst overgrown weeds and grasses. - -Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and a -strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria Maggiore; -no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who delights in -sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with its high and -reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths of Dioclesian, -which peep over one of its walls. - -At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately -porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. Some priests -jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my shoulder through the -portals, into the portico. Night began to fill it with darkness. Upon -turning round, the melancholy waste of the Campagna met my eyes, and I -wished to go home, but had scarcely the power. A pressure, like that I -have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the pavement. - -I was thus in a manner forced to dwell upon the dreary scene, the long -line of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome vapours, -rising like blue mists from the plains, had affected me. I know not how -it was; but I never experienced such strange, such chilling terrors. -About ten o'clock, thank God, the spell dissolved, I found my limbs at -liberty, and returned home. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Naples.--Portici.--The King's Pagliaro and Garden.--Description of - that pleasant spot. - - -Naples, July 8th, 1782. - -The sea-breezes restore me to life. I set the heat of mid-day at -defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. I passed -yesterday at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing and pleasant, -invited us at an early hour into the open air. We drove, in an uncovered -chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other unroyal carriage except Sir -W.'s being allowed to enter its alleys, we breathed a fresh air, -untainted by dust or garlick. Every now and then, amidst wild bushes of -ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, sometimes a -fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit undisturbed, -contemplating the blue glittering bay. - -The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, whose -white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the most -magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as one -passes by; such is their size and dignity. In the midst of the thickets -stands the King's Pagliaro, in a small garden, with hedges of luxuriant -jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as much as nature -pleases. - -The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I entered -this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the days of fairy -pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. Bright tiles compose -the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. In the middle of the -room you see a table spread with a beautiful Persian carpet; at one end, -four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King and his favourites -repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble basin. Mount a little -staircase, and you find yourself in another apartment, formed by the -roof, which being entirely composed of glistening straw, casts that -comfortable yellow glow I admire. From the windows you look into the -garden, not flourished over with parterres, but divided into plats of -fragrant herbs and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, -or basin of the purest water. - -These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, and -so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of other -vegetables, as fresh as in our green England. - - - - -GRANDE CHARTREUSE. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.--Reach the Village of - Les Echelles.--Gloomy region.--The Torrent.--Entrance of the - Desert.--Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.--Dark Woods and - Caverns.--Crosses.--Inscriptions. - - -Gray's sublime Ode on the Grande Chartreuse had sunk so deeply into my -spirit that I could not rest in peace on the banks of the Leman Lake -till I had visited the scene from whence he caught inspiration. I longed -to penetrate these sacred precincts, to hear the language of their -falling waters, and throw myself into the gloom of their forests: no -object of a worldly nature did I allow to divert my thoughts, neither -the baths of Aix, nor the habitation of the too indulgent Madame de -Warens (held so holy by Rousseau's worshippers), nor the magnificent -road cut by Charles Emanuel of Savoy through the heart of a rocky -mountain. All these points of attraction, so interesting to general -travellers, were lost upon me, so totally was I absorbed in the -anticipation of the pilgrimage I had undertaken. - -Mr. Lettice, who shared all my sentiments of admiration for Gray, and -eagerness to explore the region he had described in his short and -masterly letters with such energy, felt the same indifference as myself -to commonplace scenery. - -The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached Les Echelles, a -miserable village, with but few of its chimneys smoking, situated at the -base of a mountain, round which had gathered a concourse of red and -greyish clouds. I was heartily glad to leave these forlorn and wretched -quarters at the first dawn of the next day. We were now obliged to -abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded towards the mountains, -which, with the valleys between them, form what is called the Desert of -the Carthusians. - -In an hour's time we were drawing near, and could discern the opening of -a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which rose lofty -peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We could now distinguish -the roar of torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, issuing from -dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was somewhat startled. -I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and it was not without a -degree of unwillingness that I left the gay pastures and enlivening -sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy and disturbed region. How -dreadful, thought I, must be the despair of those, who enter it, never -to return! - -But after the first impression was worn away all my curiosity redoubled; -and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, we made such -good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain were soon left -far behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the torrent, whose -agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had inspired. Into the -midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our -horses, and, when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means -displeased to have passed them. - -We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks -diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, and the -sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began to ascend -towards the entrance of the desert, marked by two pinnacles of rock far -above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. Every moment we -approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had alarmed us; and, -suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several mills and -forges, with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over the -torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in the precipices; on -one side of which I perceived our road winding along, till it was -stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock above one of the forges was -hollowed into the shape of a round tower, of no great size, but -resembling very much an altar in figure; and, what added greatly to the -grandeur of the object, was a livid flame continually palpitating upon -it, which the gloom of the valley rendered perfectly discernible. - -The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become so -narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too well -acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, therefore, -I walked towards the edge of the great fell, and there, leaning on a -fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, where the waters -were hurled along over broken pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. -Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, -frowning on the brows of the mountains. - -It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, and -penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I believe, -uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the dashing of the -wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of the forges, that -what I said was luckily undistinguishable. - -I was not yet, however, within the consecrated enclosure, and therefore -not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced in silence up -the path, which led to the great portal. When we arrived before it, I -rested a moment, and looking against the stout oaken gate, which closed -up the entrance to this unknown region, felt at my heart a certain awe, -that brought to my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient days -going to be admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries. - -My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly -opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again carefully -closed. - -I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by peaks -of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving downwards -till their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the water, over -which hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. The rocks seemed -crowding upon me, and, by their particular situation, threatened to -obstruct every ray of light; but, notwithstanding the menacing -appearance of the prospect, I still kept following my guide, up a craggy -ascent, partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the trunks of -ancient fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till we came to a -dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over the dell. - -The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents rushing with -additional violence are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; every -object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway between the -base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. The channel of -the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the pale willows and -wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas of those dismal -abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts of -conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was regarding these -regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my eyes to vary the -scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs glistening with the light -of the sun, to emerge from these melancholy forests. - -On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a moment -its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written VIA COELI. The cliffs -being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the edge of the -precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the rocks, in which -several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. Here we reposed an -instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, piercing the thickets -and gilding the waters that bubbled from the rock, over which hung -another cross, inscribed with this short sentence, which the situation -rendered wonderfully pathetic, O SPES UNICA! the fervent exclamation of -some wretch disgusted with the world whose only consolation was found in -this retirement. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Thick forest of beech trees.--Fearful glimpses of the - torrent.--Throne of Moses.--Lofty bridge.--Distant view of the - Convent.--Profound calm.--Enter the convent gate.--Arched - aisle.--Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.--The Secretary and - Procurator.--Conversation with them.--A walk amongst the cloisters - and galleries.--Pictures of different Convents of the order.--Grand - Hall adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno's life. - - -We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech trees, -that screened in some measure the precipices on which they grew, -catching however every instant terrifying glimpses of the torrent below. -Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and falling over the -mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to join the great -torrent, athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering -bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing over to -his hermitage, that just peeped above the woody labyrinths on the -opposite shore. - -Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech -trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, which -he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received his -revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy ground, -for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of character as -would alone be sufficient to impress the idea. - -Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty -arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, -mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before two -cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue our -road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently -precipitating themselves from the woods and lashing the base of the -mountains, mossed over with a dark sea green. - -In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered my -prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, -that I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the -second portal beheld with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the throne of -Moses. - -It was now about ten o'clock, and my guide assured me I should soon -discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, and -continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into another -gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we entered again -into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted by ridges of -cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the farther end of this -inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered turrets of the -Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow of the hill; beyond -them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents itself, terminated by -spires of rock and promontories lost amongst the clouds. - -The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and all the -scenes of horror and confusion I had passed were succeeded by a sacred -and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand sensations I -despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the convent with as -much awe as some novice or candidate newly arrived to solicit the holy -retirement of the order. - -As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost any -other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst the -porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court watered by -two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, characterized by a -noble simplicity. - -The interior portal opening discovered an arched aisle, extending till -the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily -distributed between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just -sufficient to distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. We -had scarcely set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to issue -from an arch, about half way down, and passing in a long succession from -their chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, and -dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone in the aisle. - -The father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with -great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more -pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so -common in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent -questions, he called one of the lay brothers, who live in the convent -under less severe restrictions than the fathers, whom they serve, and -ordering him to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square -hall with casement windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous -chimney, whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, -on each side of which were two doors that communicated with the neat -little cells destined for our bed-chambers. - -Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means -unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang -which summoned him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set -before us the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left us -at full liberty to examine our chambers. - -The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light to -enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened by the -gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable air, -which even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers descended -with great violence, the lay brother and another of his companions were -placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the finest -linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined a number -of portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, they -called us to a dinner widely different from what might have been -expected in so dreary a situation. Our attendant friar was helping us to -some Burgundy, of the happiest growth and vintage, when the coadjutor -returned, accompanied by two other fathers, the secretary and -procurator, whom he presented to us. You would have been both charmed -and surprised with the cheerful resignation that appeared in their -countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation. - -The coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his -countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and there -was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which could not -fail to interest. There were moments when the recollection of some past -event seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy that rendered it -still more affecting. I should suspect he formerly possessed a great -share of natural vivacity (something of it being still, indeed, apparent -in his more unguarded moments); but this spirit is almost entirely -subdued by the penitence and mortification of the order. - -The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in the -political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive -correspondence these fathers preserve with the three hundred and sixty -subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all those countries where the -court of Rome still maintains its influence. - -In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions -about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had belonged -to their order; and principally that of Witham, which they had learnt to -be now in my possession. - -The secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere -these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the sake -of St. Hugo, their canonized prior. I replied greatly to his -satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour of St. Bruno, and the -holy prior of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly delighted -with the conversation, and made me promise to remain some days with -them. I readily complied with their request, and, continuing in the same -strain, that had so agreeably affected their ears, was soon presented -with the works of St. Bruno, whom I so zealously admired. - -After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort of -subjects for about an hour, the coadjutor proposed a walk amongst the -cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any longer -excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, which -brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of -pictures, representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was -now in the capital of the order, where the general resides, and from -whence he issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute -the superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the -wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest districts -of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held annually -under him, a week or two after Easter. - -This reverend father died about ten days before our arrival: a week ago -they elected the prior of the Carthusian convent at Paris in his room, -and two fathers were now on their route to apprise him of their choice, -and to salute him General of the Carthusians. During this interregnum -the coadjutor holds the first rank in the temporal, and the grand -vicaire in the spiritual affairs of the order; both of which are very -extensive. - -If I may judge from the representation of the different convents, which -adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for the -singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the landscapes -which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody island; -and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, struck -me as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries hung -formerly in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, together -with the old convent. The list only remains, with but a very few written -particulars concerning them. - -Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the -descriptions the coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery and -entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps burning -before them, on each side of a lofty portal. This opened into a grand -coved hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno's life, and -the portraits of the generals of the order, since the year of the great -founder's death (1085) to the present time. Under these portraits are -the stalls for the superiors, who assist at the grand convocation. In -front, appears the general's throne; above, hangs a representation of -the canonized Bruno, crowned with stars. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.--Cells of the - Monks.--Severity of the order.--Death-like calm.--The great - Chapel.--Its interior.--Marvellous events relating to St. - Bruno.--Retire to my cell.--Strange writings of St. Bruno.--Sketch - of his Life.--Appalling occurrence.--Vision of the Bishop of - Grenoble.--First institution of the Carthusian order.--Death of St. - Bruno.--His translation. - - -The coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked round -on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been drawing -near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of Bruno's -miracles, pourtrayed on the lower panels of the hall. We left that room -to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in the roof) that brought -us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, from which branched off two -others, joining a fourth of the same most extraordinary dimensions. Vast -ranges of slender pillars extend round the different courts of the -edifice, many of which are thrown into gardens belonging to particular -cells. - -We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much civility, -walked before us through a little corridor that looked on his garden, -showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave of the -coadjutor to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us depart with -concern. Nature has given this poor monk very considerable talents for -painting. He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in a manner -that discovers great facility of execution; but he is not allowed to -exercise his pencil on any other subject, lest he should be amused; and -amusement in this severe order is a crime. He had so subdued, so -mortified an appearance, that I was not sorry to hear the bell, which -summoned the coadjutor to prayers, and prevented my entering any more of -the cells. We continued straying from cloister to cloister, and -wandering along the winding passages and intricate galleries of this -immense edifice, whilst the coadjutor was assisting at vespers. - -In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: no -sound reached my ears but the "minute drops from off the eaves." I sat -down in a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, from -which I was recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, was -almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that I was -deliberating whether I should not remain with them for ever. - -But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the great -chapel, at which we at length arrived after traversing another labyrinth -of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance appeared quite -gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and owes its -cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of polished -marble) that admits the view of a lovely wood, and allows a full blaze -of light to dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, -in a plain but noble style of architecture. - -The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant us -admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel and -were struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple majesty of -the arched roof, and the mild solemn light equally diffused over every -part of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no glaring pictures disgraced -the sanctity of the place. The high altar, standing distinct from the -walls, which were hung with a rich velvet, was the only object on which -many ornaments were lavished; and, it being a high festival, was -clustered with statues of gold, shrines, and candelabra of the -stateliest shape and most delicate execution. Four of the latter, of a -gigantic size, were placed on the steps; which, together with part of -the inlaid floor within the choir, were spread with beautiful carpets. - -The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, and -pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, produced -a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was visible only by -the feint external light admitted from above, the splendour and dignity -of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I retired a moment from it, and -seating myself in one of the furthermost stalls of the choir, looked -towards it, and fancied the whole structure had risen by "subtle magic," -like an exhalation. - -Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and -should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive of -disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, and -were prostrating themselves before the steps of the altar. These -venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; which as -the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the sparkling -of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, and the -gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, began to be -visible just as I left the chapel. - -Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich -embroidered vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we -regained the cloister which led to our apartment, where the supper was -ready prepared. We had scarcely finished it, when the coadjutor, and the -fathers who had accompanied us before, returned, and ranging themselves -round the fire, resumed the conversation about St. Bruno. - -Finding me disposed by the wonders I had seen in the day to listen to -things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate the inspirations -they had received from him, and his mysterious apparitions. I was all -attention, respect, and credulity. The old secretary worked himself up -to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much inclined to imagine -he believed in these moments all the marvellous events he related. The -coadjutor being less violent in his pretensions to St. Bruno's modern -miracles, contented himself with enumerating the noble works he had done -in the days of his fathers, and in the old time before them. - -It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their narrations, -and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, to return to my -cell, where everything invited to repose. I was charmed with the -neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its cabin-like bed, oratory, -and ebony crucifix; in short, every thing it contained; not forgetting -the aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, floored, and -wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had the moon appeared, I could -not have prevailed upon myself to have quitted her till very late; but, -as it happened, I crept into my cabin, and was by "whispering winds soon -lulled asleep." - -Eight o'clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to my great -sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled in -vapours, and the rain descending with violence. - -After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements -admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the works of St. -Bruno; of all medleys one of the strangest. Allegories without end; a -theologico-natural history of birds, beasts, and fishes; several -chapters on paradise; the delights of solitude; the glory of Solomon's -temple; the new Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful subjects, full -of the loftiest enthusiasm. The revered author of this strangely -abstruse and mystic volume was certainly a being of no common order, nor -do we find in the wide circle of legendary traditions an event recorded, -better calculated to inspire the utmost degree of religious terror than -that which determined him to the monastic state. - -St. Bruno was of noble descent, and possessed considerable wealth. Not -less remarkable for the qualities of his mind, their assiduous -cultivation obtained for him the chair of master of the great sciences -in the University of Rheims, where he contracted an intimate friendship -with Odo, afterwards Pope Urban II. Though it appears that a very -cheering degree of public approbation, and all the blandishments of a -society highly polished for the period, contributed, not unprofitably -one should think, to fill up his time, always singular, always -visionary, he began early in life to loathe the world, and sigh after -retirement. - -But a most appalling occurrence converted these sighs into the deepest -groans. A man, who had borne the highest character for the exercise of -every virtue, died, and was being carried to the grave. The procession, -of which Bruno formed a part, was moving slowly on, when a low, mournful -sound issued from the bier. The corpse was distinctly seen to lift up -its ghastly countenance, and as distinctly heard to articulate these -words--"_I am summoned to trial._" After an agonizing pause, the same -terrific voice declared--"_I stand before the tribunal._" Some further -moments of amazement and horror having elapsed, the dead body lifted -itself up a third time, and moving its livid lips uttered forth this -dreadful sentence--"_I am condemned by the just judgment of God._" -"Alas! alas!" exclaimed Bruno--"of how little avail are apparent good -works, or the favourable opinion of mankind! - - Ubi fugiam nisi ad te?-- - -Thy mercies alone can save, and it is not in the frivolous and seductive -intercourse of a worldly life those mercies can be obtained." - -Stricken to the heart by these reflections, he hurried in a fever of -terror and alarm (the sepulchral voice still ringing in his ears) to -Grenoble, of which see one of his dearest friends, the venerable Hugo, -had lately been appointed bishop. - -This saintly prelate soothed the dreadful agitation of his spirits by -relating to him a revelation he had just received in a dream. - -"As I slept," said Hugo, "methought the desert mountains beyond Grenoble -became suddenly visible in the dead of night by the streaming of seven -lucid stars which hung directly over them. Whilst I remained absorbed in -the contemplation of this wonder, an awful voice seemed to break the -nocturnal silence, declaring their dreary solitudes thy future abode, O -Bruno!--by thee to be consecrated as a retirement for holy men desirous -of holding converse with their God. No shepherd's pipe shall be heard -within these precincts; no huntsman's profane feet ever invade their -fastnesses; nor shall woman ascend this mountain, or violate by her -allurements the sacred repose of its inhabitants." - -Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop of -Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few persons that, -like himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the charms of -society, repaired with them to this spot; and, in the darkest parts of -the forests which shade the most gloomy recesses of the mountains, -founded the first convent of Carthusians, long since destroyed. - -Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of the -most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct reaching -Rome, (where his friend had been lately invested with the papal tiara,) -the whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and entreated Urban to -invite him to Rome. The request of Christ's vicegerent was not to be -refused; and Bruno quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some of his -disciples behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously the -infant order. - -The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had -weaned himself entirely from worldly affections. - -Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy -metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to -retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking the -wilds of Calabria, there sequestered himself in a lonely hermitage, -calmly expecting his last moments. - -In his death there was no bitterness. A celestial radiance shone around -him even before he closed his eyes upon this frail existence, and many a -venerable witness has testified that the voices of angelic beings were -heard calling him to come and receive his reward; but as the different -accounts of his translation are not essentially varied, it would be -tedious to recite them. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Mystic discourse.--A mountain ramble.--A benevolent Hermit.--Red - light in the northern sky.--Lose my way in the solitary - hills.--Approach of night. - - -I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the writings of this holy -and highly-gifted personage when the dinner appeared, consisting of -everything most delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre -could allow. The good fathers returned as usual before our repast was -half over, and resumed as usual their mystic discourse, looking all the -time rather earnestly into my countenance to observe the sort of effect -their most marvellous narrations produced upon it. - -Our conversation, which was beginning to take a gloomy and serious turn, -was interrupted, I thought very agreeably, by the sudden intrusion of -the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full splendour above -the highest peak of the mountains, and the vapours fleeting by degrees -discovered the woods in all the freshness of their verdure. The pleasure -I received from seeing this new creation rising to view was very lively, -and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their walks did not often -continue longer than the showers, I left my hall. - -Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly -along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the forests, -enjoyed the charms of the prospect inhaled the perfume of the woodlands, -and now turning towards the summits of the precipices that encircled -this sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours they borrowed from -the sun, contrasted by the dark hues of the forest. Now, casting my eyes -below, I suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from one -stream (beset with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. The -purity of the air in these exalted regions, and the lightness of my own -spirits, almost seized me with the idea of treading in that element. - -Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and falling -waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness and -rapidity that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the appearance -of one possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with the scene to -a degree I despair of expressing. - -Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange ideas, -a father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, stopped my -career, and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench erected under -a neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and disordered looks, -fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk near the snows of -the mountains had alarmed me by his sudden appearance. - -The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to -recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity as -his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning in a -few moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into which he let -fall several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable herbs, and -having performed this deed of charity, signified to me by a look, in -which benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little remains of -curiosity were strongly painted, how sorry he was to be restrained by -his vow of silence from enquiring into the cause of my agitation, and -giving me farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose to -carry on the adventure, and suffered him to depart with all his -conjectures unsatisfied. - -No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit than I started up, -and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the edge of a -woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running from the -opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the cliffs, now -but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some time sinking on -our narrow horizon, reflected that it would be madness to bewilder -myself, at so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. Being thus -determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating into the -lovely region before me, and contented myself for some moments with -marking the pale tints of the evening gradually overspreading the -cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of the setting sun. - -But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by a red -light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my notice as I -sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down what appeared to be a -fathomless ravine blackened by the shade of impervious forests, above -which rose majestically the varied peaks and promontories of the -mountains. - -The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next -caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the valley, -when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange fantastic -shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, passed on, like a -solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway between the stream that -watered it below, and the summits of the cliffs on high. - -The tranquillity of the region, the verdure of the lawn, environed by -girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, filled -me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted up my eyes to -the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming with ruddy -light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering over the space -beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews which began to descend, -and the vapours which were rising from every dell, reminded me of the -lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance that I turned -from the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, and traversed -slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over which I had hurried with -such eagerness an hour ago. - -Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I had -passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following a -different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep -valley. Another moment, descending into the hollows between the hillocks -that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I fancied I had -entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment to be lost amongst -the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around. - -As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more -forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; and -whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and on every -side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp which might -indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I flattered myself, -would direct me to the monastery. - -At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, -unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the -gate, the attendant lay-brothers came out with lights, in order to -search for me; scarcely had I joined them, when the Coadjutor and the -Secretary came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their -uneasiness at my long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, where -Mr. Lettice was waiting, with no small degree of impatience; but I found -not a word had been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, -I believe, he strictly kept his vow till the day when the Carthusians -are allowed to speak, and which happened after my departure. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Pastoral Scenery of Valombr.--Ascent of the highest Peak in the - Desert.--Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.--Farewell benediction of - the Fathers. - - -We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a -circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon -gleamed through the casements, and the stars sparkling above the forests -of pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give myself up -entirely to the spectacle they offered. - -The coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through the -windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay-brother, ordered him to -open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not long before -I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from the courts and -cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, ascended -a green knoll, which several ancient pines strongly marked with their -shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted up my eyes -to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered by the -trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on the woods which -fringed their acclivities. - -The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the -torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale blueish haze, -that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky -promontories above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the deepest -azure, innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual clearness from -this elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the -promontories. White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the -moon, that shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves -far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, throwing itself -from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy vales, was mingled with -the blast that blew from the mountains. - -It increased. The forests began to wave, black clouds rose from the -north, and, as they fleeted along, approached the moon, whose light -they shortly extinguished. A moment of darkness succeeded; the gust was -chill and melancholy; it swept along the desert, and then subsiding, the -vapours began to pass away, and the moon returned; the grandeur of the -scene was renewed, and its imposing solemnity was increased by her -presence. Inspiration was in every wind. - -I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains -before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild woods -and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I eagerly -contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his eyes; drank of -the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran to -every pine, whose withered appearance bespoke the most remote antiquity, -and beneath which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn -with vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his institutions. It -was midnight before I returned to the convent and retired to my quiet -chamber, but my imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far -too active, to allow me any rest for some time. - -I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious -blast, which drove open my casement, for it was a troubled and -tempestuous night, and let in the roar of the tempest. In the intervals -of the storm, in those moments when the winds seemed to pause, the faint -sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but were swallowed up the next -instant by the redoubled fury of the gust, which was still increased by -the roar of the waters. - -I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as well -as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, than I -arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll, where I -had stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure -morning air delightfully refreshing: every tree, every shrub, glistened -with dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the fir-trees -on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly into the clear -blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into the valley between the steeps of -wood and the turrets of the convent, and passed the different buildings, -destined for the manufacture of the articles necessary to the fathers; -for nothing is worn or used within this inclosure, which comes from the -profane world. - -Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was so -lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, which I -crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to an eminence, -covered with a hanging wood of beech-trees feathered to the ground, from -whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a -smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed -up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of shrubs, -entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; at one -extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had directed me -to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous group of cattle, -lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with -long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking them. - -The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that -skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, -dappled cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant -with their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and certainly very -singular spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold "milk-maids -singing blithe," and tripping lightly along with their pails, was not a -little surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures shifted -their trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with what -adroitness they performed their functions, managing their long beards -with a facility and cleanliness equally admirable. - -I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, -before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, -than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down -his pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, -desired me to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, -observing what was going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an -hospitable act, and, quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods, -from whence he returned in a few minutes with some strawberries, very -neatly enveloped in fresh leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, -next invited me to the cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred -the shade of the beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic -herbage, I enjoyed the pastoral character of the scene with all possible -glee. - -Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable gaudy -flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by the -cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs and -forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the -summer hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my -repose in this most delightful of valleys. - -When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I -could converse was the charms of Valombr, for so is this beautifully -wooded region most appropriately called. Notwithstanding the -indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded the -monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, of -conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert. - -Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following his -steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them, -strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, and -dedicated to St. Bruno. - -Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on which -this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed on a -lofty green mountain, from whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a -surprising elevation; and which (owing to the sun's reflection on a -transparent mist hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary -light. This object was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my -activity, I made the best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and -crumbled fragments of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I came -to the green steeps I had surveyed at a distance. - -These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered -beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bade adieu to summer, and -entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the -mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the -crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot -of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets. - -After taking a few moments' repose, my guide prepared to clamber amongst -the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was able, till -laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang upon a small -level space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast -desert and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, -the green meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the -barrier of mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant -countries; the plains where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes -of Savoy; amongst which that of Bourget was near enough to discover its -beauties, all glowing with the warm haze of the setting sun. - -My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey, so turning my eyes -from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks, -through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest -greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others -by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs I -had so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon. - -The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in it -till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time I -visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered -large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which with -a surprising variety of other plants carpeted this lovely glen. A -luxuriant vegetation, - - That on the green turf suck'd the honey'd showers, - And purpled all the ground with vernal flowers. - -My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it would -be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures of -the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I was -very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches in -the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. This -prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several -thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every -minute, shortly skreened the green mountain and all the forest from our -sight. A sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning -began to flash from a dark angry cloud that hung over the valleys and -deluged them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear -expanse of ther. - -But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; -so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and, -carefully following my guide (for a false step might have caused my -destruction) wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak -behind, and just as we reached the green mountain which was moistened -with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its -serenity. - -Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, and -soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand -amphitheatre of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond -which appeared the neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, -where we arrived as the moon was beginning to assume her empire. - -I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the day. -The next morning early, I quitted my kind hosts with great reluctance. -The coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to the outward gate, -and there within the solemn circle of the desert bestowed on me their -benediction. - -It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me till -I was an hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their hands on -their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the world, -here was an asylum. - -I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my -road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate in the midst of the -wide world again, it increased. - -We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chambery, and, instead of -going through Aix, passed by Annecy; but nothing in all the route -engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld -the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs. - -I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I -could sit and think of Valombr. - - - - -SALEVE. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.--Pas - d'Echelle.--Moneti.--Bird's-eye prospects.--Alpine - flowers.--Extensive view from the summit of Saleve.--Youthful - enthusiasm.--Sad realities. - - -I had long wished to revisit the holt of trees so conspicuous on the -summit of Saleve, and set forth this morning to accomplish that purpose. -Brandoin an artist, once the delight of our travelling lords and ladies, -accompanied me. We rode pleasantly and sketchingly along through Carouge -to the base of the mountain, taking views every now and then of -picturesque stumps and cottages. - -At length, after a good deal of lackadaisical loitering on the banks of -the Arve, we reached a sort of goats' path, leading to some steps cut -in the rock, and justly called the Pas d'Echelle. I need not say we were -obliged to dismount and toil up this ladder, beyond which rise steeps of -verdure shaded by walnuts. - -These brought us to Moneti, a rude straggling village, with its church -tower embosomed in gigantic limes. We availed ourselves of their deep -cool shade to dine as comfortably as a whole posse of withered hags, who -seemed to have been just alighted from their broomsticks, would allow -us. - -About half past three, a sledge drawn by four oxen was got ready to drag -us up to the holt of trees, the goal to which we were tending: -stretching ourselves on the straw spread over our vehicle, we set off -along a rugged path, conducted aslant the steep slope of the mountain, -vast prospects opening as we ascended; to our right the crags of the -little Saleve--the variegated plains of Gex and Chablais, separated by -the lake; below, Moneti, almost concealed in wood; behind, the mole, -lifting up its pyramidical summit amidst the wild amphitheatre of -glaciers, which lay this evening in dismal shadow, the sun being -overcast, the Jura half lost in rainy mists, and a heavy storm -darkening the Fort de l'Ecluse. Except a sickly gleam cast on the snows -of the Buet, not a ray of sunshine enlivened our landscape. - -This sorrowful colouring agreed but too well with the dejection of my -spirits. I suffered melancholy recollections to take full possession of -me, and glancing my eyes over the vast map below, sought out those spots -where I had lived so happy with my lovely Margaret. On them did I -eagerly gaze--absorbed in the consciousness of a fatal, irreparable -loss, I little noticed the transports expressed by my companion at the -grand effects of light and shade, which obeyed the movements of the -clouds; nor was I more attentive to the route of our oxen, which, -perfectly familiarized with precipices, preferred their edge to the bank -on the other side, and by this choice gave us an opportunity of looking -down more than a thousand feet perpendicularly on the wild shrubberies -and shattered rocks deep below, at the base of the mountain. In general -I shrink back from such bird's-eye prospects with my head in a whirl, -and yet, by a most unaccountable fascination, feel a feverish impulse -to throw myself into the very gulph I abhor; but to-day I lay in passive -indifference, listlessly extended on our moving bed. - -Its progress being extremely deliberate, we had leisure to observe, as -we crept along, a profusion of Alpine flowers; but none of those -gorgeous insects mentioned by Saussure as abounding on Saleve were -fluttering about them. This was no favourable day for butterfly -excursions; the flowers laden with heavy drops, the forerunners of still -heavier rain, hung down their heads. We passed several chalets, formed -of mud and stone, instead of the neat timber, with which those on the -Swiss mountains are constructed. Meagre peasants, whose sallow -countenances looked quite of a piece with the sandy hue of their -habitations, kept staring at us from crevices and hollow places: the -fresh roses of a garden are not more different from the rank weeds of an -unhealthy swamp, than these wretched objects from the ruddy inhabitants -of Switzerland. - -My heart sank as we were driven alongside of one of these squalid -groups, huddled together under a blasted beech in expectation of a -storm. The wind drove the smoke and sparks of a fire just kindled at the -root of the tree, full in the face of an infant, whose mother had -abandoned it to implore our charity with outstretched withered hands. -The poor helpless being filled the air with waitings, and being tightly -swaddled lip in yellow rags, according to Savoyarde custom, exhibited an -appearance in form and colour not unlike that of an overgrown pumpkin -thrown on the ground out of the way. How should I have enjoyed setting -its limbs at liberty, and transporting it to the swelling bosom of a -Bernese peasant! such as I have seen in untaxed garments, red, blue and -green, with hair falling in braids mixed with flowers and silver -trinkets, hurrying along to some wake or wedding, with that firm step -and smiling hilarity which the consciousness of freedom inspires. - -A few minutes dragging beyond the tree just mentioned, we reached the -bold verdant slopes of delicate short herbage which crown the crags of -the mountain. We now moved smoothly along the turf, brushing it with our -hands to extract its aromatic fragrance, and having no longer rough -stones to encounter, our conveyance became so agreeable that we -regretted our arrival before a chalet, under a clump of weather-beaten -beach. These are the identical trees, so far and widely discovered, on -the summit of Saleve, and the point to which we had been tending. - -Seating ourselves on the very edge of a rocky cornice, we surveyed the -busy crowded territory of Geneva, the vast reach of the lake, its coast, -thickset with castles, towns, and villages, and the long line of the -Jura protecting these richly cultivated possessions. Turning round, we -traced the course of the Arve up to its awful sanctuary, the Alps of -Savoy, above which rose the Mont-Blanc in deadly paleness, backed by a -gloomy sky; nothing could form a stronger contrast to the populous and -fertile plains in front of the mountain than this chaos of snowy peaks -and melancholy deserts, the loftiest in the old world, held up in the -air, and beaten, in spite of summer, with wintry storms. - -I know not how long we should have remained examining the prospect had -the weather been favourable, and had we enjoyed one of those serene -evenings to be expected in the month of July. Many such have I passed in -my careless childish days, stretched out on the brow of this very -mountain, contemplating the heavenly azure of the lake, the innumerable -windows of the villas below blazing in the setting sun, and the glaciers -suffused by its last ray with a blushing pink. How often, giving way to -youthful enthusiasm, have I peopled these singularly varied peaks with -gnomes and fairies, the distributors of gold and crystal to those who -adventurously scaled their lofty abode. - -This evening my fancy was led to no such gay arial excursions; sad -realities chained it to the earth, and to the scene before my eyes, -which, in lowering, sombre hue, corresponded with my interior gloom. A -rude blast driving us off the margin of the precipices, we returned to -the shelter of the beech. There we found some disappointed butterfly -catchers, probably of the watch-making tribe, and a silly boy gaping -after them with a lank net and empty boxes. This being Monday, I thought -the Saleve had been delivered from such intruders; but it seems that -the rage for natural history has so victoriously pervaded all ranks of -people in the republic, that almost every day in the week sends forth -some of its journeymen to ransack the neighbouring cliffs, and transfix -unhappy butterflies. - -Silversmiths and toymen, possessed by the spirit of De Luc and De -Saussure's lucubrations, throw away the light implements of their trade, -and sally forth with hammer and pickaxe to pound pebbles and knock at -the door of every mountain for information. Instead of furbishing up -teaspoons and sorting watch-chains, they talk of nothing but quartz and -feldspath. One flourishes away on the durability of granite, whilst -another treats calcareous rocks with contempt; but as human pleasures -are seldom perfect and permanent, acrimonious disputes too frequently -interrupt the calm of the philosophic excursion. Squabbles arise about -the genus of a coralite, or concerning that element which has borne the -greatest part in the convulsion of nature. The advocate of water too -often sneaks home to his wife with a tattered collar, whilst the -partisan of fire and volcanoes lies vanquished in a puddle, or winding -up the clue of his argument in a solitary ditch. I cannot help thinking -so diffused a taste for fossils and petrifactions of no very particular -benefit to the artisans of Geneva, and that watches would go as well, -though their makers were less enlightened. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Chalet under the Beech-trees.--A mountain Bridge.--Solemnity of the - Night.--The Comedie.--Relaxation of Genevese Morality. - - -It began to rain just as we entered the chalet under the beech-trees, -and one of the dirtiest I ever crept into--it would have been -uncharitable not to have regretted the absence of swine, for here was -mud and filth enough to have insured their felicity. A woman, whose -teeth of a shining whiteness were the only clean objects I could -discover, brought us foaming bowls of cream and milk, with which we -regaled ourselves, and then got into our vehicle. We but too soon left -the smooth herbage behind, and passed about an hour in rambling down the -mountain pelted by the showers, from which we took shelter under the -limes at Moneti. - -Here we should have drunk our tea in peace and quietness, had it not -been for the incursion of a gang of bandylegged watchmakers, smoking -their pipes, and scraping their fiddles, and snapping their fingers, -with all that insolent vulgarity so characteristic of the Rue-basse -portion of the Genevese community. We got out of their way, you may -easily imagine, as fast as we were able, and descending a rough road, -most abominably strewn with rolling pebbles, arrived at the bridge -d'Etrombieres just as it fell dark. The mouldering planks with which the -bridge is awkwardly put together, sounded suspiciously hollow under the -feet of our horses, and had it not been for the friendly light of a pine -torch which a peasant brought forth, we might have been tumbled into the -Arve. - -It was a mild summer night, the rainy clouds were dissolving away with a -murmur of distant thunder so faint as to be scarcely heard. From time to -time a flash of summer lightning discovered the lonely tower of Moneti -on the edge of the lesser Saleve. The ghostly tales, which the old cur -of the mountains had told me at a period when I hungered and thirsted -after supernatural narrations, recurred to my memory, in all their -variety of horrors, and kept it fully employed till I found myself under -the walls of Geneva. The gates were shut, but I knew they were to be -opened again at ten o'clock for the convenience of those returning from -the _Comedie_. - -The _Comedie_ is become of wonderful importance; but a few years ago the -very name of a play was held in such abhorrence by the spiritual -consistory of Geneva and its obsequious servants, which then included -the best part of the republic, that the partakers and abettors of such -diversions were esteemed on the high road to eternal perdition. Though, -God knows, I am unconscious of any extreme partiality for Calvin, I -cannot help thinking his severe discipline wisely adapted to the moral -constitution of this starch bit of a republic which he took to his grim -embraces. But these days of rigidity and plainness are completely gone -by; the soft spirit of toleration, so eloquently insinuated by Voltaire, -has removed all thorny fences, familiarized his numerous admirers with -every innovation, and laughed scruples of every nature to scorn. -Voltaire, indeed, may justly be styled the architect of that gay -well-ornamented bridge, by which freethinking and immorality have been -smuggled into the republic under the mask of philosophy and liberality -and sentiment. These monsters, like the Sin and Death of Milton, have -made speedy and irreparable havoc. To facilitate their operations, rose -the genius of "Rentes Viagres" at his bidding, tawdry villas with their -little pert groves of poplar and horse-chesnut start up--his power -enables Madame C. D. the bookseller's lady to amuse the D. of G. with -assemblies, sets Parisian cabriolets and English phaetons rolling from -one faro table to another, and launches innumerable pleasure parties -with banners and popguns on the lake, drumming and trumpeting away their -time from morn till evening. I recollect, not many years past, how -seldom the echoes of the mountains were profaned by such noises, and how -rarely the drones of Geneva, if any there were in that once industrious -city, had opportunities of displaying their idleness; but now -Dissipation reigns triumphant, and to pay the tribute she exacts, every -fool runs headlong to throw his scrapings into the voracious whirlpool -of annuities; little caring, provided he feeds high and lolls in his -carriage, what becomes of his posterity. I had ample time to make these -reflections, as the _Comedie_ lasted longer than usual. - -Luckily the night improved, the storms had rolled away, and the moon -rising from behind the crags of the lesser Saleve cast a pleasant gleam -on the smooth turf of plain-palais, where we walked to and fro above -half an hour. We had this extensive level almost entirely to ourselves, -no light glimmered in any window, no sound broke the general stillness, -except a low murmur proceeding from a group of chesnut trees. There, -snug under a garden wall on a sequestered bench, sat two or three -Genevois of the old stamp, chewing the cud of sober sermons--men who -receive not more than seven or eight per cent. for their money; there -sat they waiting for their young ones, who had been seduced to the -theatre. - -A loud hubbub and glare of flambeaus proclaiming the end of the play, we -left these good folks to their rumination, and regaining our carriage -rattled furiously through the streets of Geneva, once so quiet, so -silent at these hours, to the no small terror and annoyance of those -whom Rentes Viagres had not yet provided with a speedier conveyance -than their own legs, or a brighter satellite than an old cook-maid with -a candle and lantern. - -It was eleven o'clock before we reached home, and near two before I -retired to rest, having sat down immediately to write this letter whilst -the impressions of the day were fresh in my memory. - -END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - -LONDON: - -PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, - -Dorset Street, Fleet Street. - - - - - - -ITALY; - -WITH SKETCHES OF - -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF "VATHEK." - -THIRD EDITION. - -IN TWO VOLUMES. - -VOL. II. - -LONDON: - -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, - -Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. - -1835. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - -PORTUGAL. - -LETTER I. - -Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening -ramble. Page 5 - -LETTER II. - -Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid -progress of Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious -extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp's mansion.--Beautiful -lake.--The wind still contrary. 8 - -LETTER III. - -A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral -effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected -dreams. 12 - -LETTER IV. - -A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the -compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. 16 - -LETTER V. - -Regrets produced by contrasts. 19 - -LETTER VI. - -Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant -vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of -the voyage. 21 - -LETTER VII. - -Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal -labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese -Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture -in petticoats.--Force of education.--Royalty without power.--Return -from the Palace. 23 - -LETTER VIII. - -Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic -Gardens.--Aafatas.--Description of the Gardens and -Terraces. 29 - -LETTER IX. - -Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley -of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the -Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of -rarities.--The Viceroy of Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A -night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary Procession.--Blessings -of Patriarchal Government. 34 - -LETTER X. - -Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the -streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the -Sacrament in awful state.--Gorgeous procession.--Bewildering -confusion of sounds. 47 - -LETTER XI. - -Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian -wife.--Magnificent Repast.--A tragic damsel. 51 - -LETTER XII. - -Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation -of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of -exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the -edge of the Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy -One of Lisbon. 55 - -LETTER XIII. - -The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic -Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to -the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking -effigy of the Saviour.--A young and melancholy -Carthusian.--The Cemetery. 59 - -LETTER XIV. - -Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor -Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit -to the Theatre in the Rua d'os Condes.--The -Archbishop Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching -nature of that music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm -of the young Conde de Villanova.--No accounting for -fancies. 68 - -LETTER XV. - -Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public -gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit -to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous -narrations of a young priest.--Convent of -Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore's chickens.--Sequestered -group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. 77 - -LETTER XVI. - -Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of -Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows -of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre -Duarte, a famous Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a -conceited Physician.--Their ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese -minuets. 88 - -LETTER XVII. - -Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Jos di Ribamar.--Breakfast -at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent -and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of -mysterious chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening -scene in the garden of Marvilla. 96 - -LETTER XVIII. - -Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalha.--The Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion -designed by Pillement.--A convulsive -gallop.--Cold weather in July. 104 - -LETTER XIX. - -Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of -Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on -the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of -Alphonso the Sixth.--The Chapel.--Barbaric profusion -of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he -received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in preparation -for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalha. 110 - -LETTER XX. - -Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday -of Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome -lights of Truth.--Invective against the English. 117 - -LETTER XXI. - -The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal -of a Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. 123 - -LETTER XXII. - -Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast -fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The -Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. -Augustine.--The collateral Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The -Abbot of the Convent.--The Library.--View from -the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of the Capitan -Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the Organs.--The -Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive crowd.--The -Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de -Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan -Mor's. 127 - -LETTER XXIII. - -High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave -Mafra.--An accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful -view from it. 143 - -LETTER XXIV. - -A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing -stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful -funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of -Penha Verde. 147 - -LETTER XXV. - -Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. -Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The -old Consul and his tray of jewels. 157 - -LETTER XXVI. - -Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke -d'Alafoens.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of -the Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163 - -LETTER XXVII. - -Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular -invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity -and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary -personage. 169 - -LETTER XXVIII. - -Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora -da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The -Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination -of the Ancients exemplified. 179 - -LETTER XXIX. - -Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa -to the edifices in Caspar Poussin's landscapes.--The ancient -pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de -Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx -of visitors.--A celebrated Prior's erudition and -strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--OEcolampadius.--Bevy -of Palace damsels.--Fte at the -Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A -favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the -Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous -etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The -young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189 - -LETTER XXX. - -Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.--The -Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese -poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy -Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations -in honour of the Infanta's accouchement.--Public -harangues.--Policarpio's singing, and anecdotes -of the _haute noblesse_. 201 - -LETTER XXXI. - -Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song -of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview -with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation -with His Royal Highness.--Return to -Ramalha. 212 - -LETTER XXXII. - -Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of -the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His -house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train -of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black -dose of legendary superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A -dreary evening. 229 - -LETTER XXXIII. - -Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of -beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful -countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess -of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A -strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira -Mor's.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the -Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on -leaving Portugal. 235 - -LETTER XXXIV. - -Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by -Perez and Jomelli.--Marialva's affecting address.--My -sorrow and anxiety. 253 - - - - -SPAIN. - - -LETTER I. - -Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The -church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on -the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach -Arroyolos. 259 - - -LETTER II. - -A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An -outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our -reception there.--My visiters. 268 - - -LETTER III. - -Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A -muleteer's enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey -resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered -hags.--Names and characters of our mules.--Posada at -Merida. 275 - - -LETTER IV. - -Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal -country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense -wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the -escrivano.--A terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range -of lofty mountains.--Calzada. 282 - - -LETTER V. - -Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera.--Drawling -tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at -Santa Olaya.--The lady of the house and her dogs and -dancers. 289 - - -LETTER VI. - -Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most -determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach -to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d'Alcala.--The -Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. 296 - - -LETTER VII. - -The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her -apartment described.--Her passion for music.--Her seoros -de honor. 301 - - -LETTER VIII. - -The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and -gardens of the Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and -his numerous train.--Farinelli's apartments. 305 - - -LETTER IX. - -The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The -Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The -Theatre.--A highly popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their -glory. 310 - - -LETTER X. - -Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception -by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence -of the choir.--Charles the Fifth's organ.--Crucifix -by Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.--Extent -and intricacy of the stupendous edifice. 314 - - -LETTER XI. - -Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from -the Archangel Gabriel's wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.--Sepulchral -cave.--River of death.--The regal sarcophagi. 323 - - -LETTER XII. - -A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco's.--Curious assemblage -in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an -eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini -in despair.--Solecisms in dancing. 329 - - -LETTER XIII. - -Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King's sleeping -apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture -of the Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don -Gabriel and the Infanta.--Her Royal Highness's affecting -recollections of home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition -of national manners there. 339 - - -LETTER XIV. - -A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with -him.--History of a Ghost-seer. 349 - - -LETTER XV. - -Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, -an infidel in the German style.--Mass in the -chapel of the Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba's villa.--Destruction -by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French -ambassador's ball.--Heir-apparent of the -house of Medina Celi. 354 - - -LETTER XVI. - -Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens -of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame -d'Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame -d'Aranda's toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame -Badaan.--Cortejos off duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A -curious group.--A dance. 358 - - -LETTER XVII. - -Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange -medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the -Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco -by Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present -reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna's house.--Apathy -pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. 365 - - -LETTER XVIII. - -Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive -rage for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley -of Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.--Degeneration -of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. 376 - - - - -PORTUGAL. - - - - -PREFACE - -TO - -PORTUGUESE LETTERS. - - -Portugal attracting much attention in her present convulsed and -declining state, it might not perhaps be uninteresting to the public to -cast back a glance by way of contrast to the happier times when she -enjoyed, under the mild and beneficent reign of Donna Maria the First, a -great share of courtly and commercial prosperity. - -March 1, 1834. - - - - -PORTUGAL. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble. - - -Falmouth, March 6, 1787. - -The glass is sinking; the west wind gently breathing upon the water, the -smoke softly descending into the room, and sailors yawning dismally at -the door of every ale-house. - -Navigation seems at a full stop. The captains lounging about with their -hands in their pockets, and passengers idling at billiards. Dr. V---- -has scraped acquaintance with a quaker, and went last night to one of -their assemblies, where he kept jingling his fine Genevan watch-chains -to their sober and silent dismay. - -In the intervals of the mild showers with which we are blessed, I ramble -about some fields already springing with fresh herbage, which slope -down to the harbour: the immediate environs of Falmouth are not -unpleasant upon better acquaintance. Just out of the town, in a -sheltered recess of the bay, lies a grove of tall elms, forming several -avenues carpeted with turf. In the central point rises a stone pyramid -about thirty feet high, well designed and constructed, but quite plain -without any inscription; between the stems of the trees one discovers a -low white house, built in and out in a very capricious manner, with -oriel windows and porches, shaded by bushes of prosperous bay. Several -rose-coloured cabbages, with leaves as crisped and curled as those of -the acanthus, decorate a little grass-plat, neatly swept, before the -door. Over the roof of this snug habitation I spied the skeleton of a -gothic mansion, so completely robed with thick ivy, as to appear like -one of those castles of clipped box I have often seen in a Dutch garden. - -Yesterday evening, the winds being still, and the sun gleaming warm for -a moment or two, I visited this spot to examine the ruin, hear birds -chirp, and scent wall-flowers. - -Two young girls, beautifully shaped, and dressed with a sort of romantic -provincial elegance, were walking up and down the grove by the pyramid. -There was something so love-lorn in their gestures, that I have no doubt -they were sighing out their souls to each other. As a decided amateur of -this sort of _confidential promenade_, I would have given my ears to -have heard their _confessions_. - - - - -LETTER II. - - Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid progress of - Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious - extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp's mansion.--Beautiful - lake.--The wind still contrary. - - -Falmouth, March 7, 1787. - -Scott came this morning and took me to see the consolidated mines in the -parish of Gwynnap; they are situated in a bleak desert, rendered still -more doleful by the unhealthy appearance of its inhabitants. At every -step one stumbles upon ladders that lead into utter darkness, or funnels -that exhale warm copperous vapours. All around these openings the ore is -piled up in heaps waiting for purchasers. I saw it drawn reeking out of -the mine by the help of a machine called a whim, put in motion by mules, -which in their turn are stimulated by impish children hanging over the -poor brutes, and flogging them round without respite. This dismal scene -of _whims_, suffering mules, and hillocks of cinders, extends for -miles. Huge iron engines creaking and groaning, invented by Watt, and -tall chimneys smoking and flaming, that seem to belong to old Nicholas's -abode, diversify the prospect. - -Two strange-looking Cornish beings, dressed in ghostly white, conducted -me about, and very kindly proposed a descent into the bowels of the -earth, but I declined initiation. These mystagogues occupy a tolerable -house, with fair sash windows, where the inspectors of the mine hold -their meetings, and regale upon beef, pudding, and brandy. - -While I was standing at the door of this habitation, several woful -figures in tattered garments, with pickaxes on their shoulders, crawled -out of a dark fissure and repaired to a hovel, which I learnt was a -gin-shop. There they pass the few hours allotted them above ground, and -drink, it is to be hoped, an oblivion of their subterraneous existence. -Piety as well as gin helps to fill up their leisure moments, and I was -told that Wesley, who came apostolising into Cornwall a few years ago, -preached on this very spot to above seven thousand followers. - -Since this period Methodism has made a very rapid progress, and has been -of no trifling service in diverting the attention of these sons of -darkness from then present condition to the glories of the life to come. -However, some people inform me their actual state is not so much to be -lamented, and that, notwithstanding their pale looks and tattered -raiment, they are far from being poor or unhealthy. Fortune often throws -a considerable sum into their laps when they least expect it, and many a -common miner has been known to gain a hundred pounds in the space of a -month or two. Like sailors in the first effusion of prize-money, they -have no notion of turning their good-luck to advantage; but squander the -fruits of their toil in the silliest species of extravagance. Their -wives are dressed out in tawdry silks, and flaunt away in ale-houses -between rows of obedient fiddlers. The money spent, down they sink again -into damps and darkness. - -Having passed about an hour in collecting minerals, stopping engines -with my finger, and performing all the functions of a diligent young man -desirous of information, I turned my back on smokes, flames, and -coal-holes, with great pleasure. - -Not above a mile-and-a-half from this black bustling scene, in a -sheltered valley, lies the mansion of Mr. Beauchamp, wrapped up in -shrubberies of laurel and laurustine. Copses of hazel and holly -terminate the prospect on almost every side, and in the midst of the -glen a broad clear stream reflects the impending vegetation. This -transparent water, after performing the part of a mirror before the -house, forms a succession of waterfalls which glitter between slopes of -the smoothest turf, sprinkled with daffodils: numerous flights of -widgeon and Muscovy ducks, were sprucing themselves on the edge of the -stream, and two grave swans seemed highly to approve of its woody -retired banks for the education of their progeny. - -Very glad was I to disport on its "margent green," after crushing -cinders at every step all the morning; had not the sun hid himself, and -the air grown chill, I might have fooled away three or four hours with -the swans and the widgeons, and lost my dinner. Upon my return home, I -found the wind as contrary as ever, and all thoughts of sailing -abandoned. - - - - -LETTER III. - - A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral - effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected - dreams. - - -Falmouth, March 8, 1787. - -What a lovely morning! how glassy the sea, how busy the fishing-boats, -and how fast asleep the wind in its old quarter! Towards evening, -however, it freshened, and I took a toss in a boat with Mr. Trefusis, -whose territories extend half round the bay. His green hanging downs -spotted with sheep, and intersected by rocky gullies, shaded by tall -straight oaks and ashes, form a romantic prospect, very much in the -style of Mount Edgcumbe. - -We drank tea at the capital of these dominions, an antiquated mansion, -which is placed in a hollow on the summit of a lofty hill, and contains -many ruinous halls and never-ending passages: they cannot, however, be -said to lead to nothing, like those celebrated by Gray in his Long -Story, for Mrs. Trefusis terminated the perspective. She is a native of -Lausanne, and was quite happy to see her countryman Verdeil. - -We should have very much enjoyed her conversation, but the moment tea -was over, the squire could not resist leading us round his improvements -in kennel, stable, and oxstall: though it was pitch-dark, and we were -obliged to be escorted by grooms and groomlings with candles and -lanterns; a very necessary precaution, as the winds blew not more -violently without the house than within. - -In the course of our peregrination through halls, pantries, and -antechambers, we passed a staircase with heavy walnut-railing, lined -from top to bottom with effigies of ancestors that looked quite -formidable by the horny glow of our lanterns; which illumination, dull -as it was, occasioned much alarm amongst a collection of animals, both -furred and feathered, the delight of Mr. Trefusis's existence. - -Every corner of his house contains some strange and stinking inhabitant; -one can hardly move without stumbling over a basket of puppies, or -rolling along a mealy tub, with ferrets in the bottom of it; rap went my -head against a wire cage, and behold a squirrel twirled out of its sleep -in sad confusion: a little further on, I was very near being the -destruction of some new-born dormice--their feeble squeak haunts my ears -at this moment! - -Beyond this nursery, a door opened and admitted us into a large saloon, -in the days of Mr. Trefusis's father very splendidly decorated, but at -present exhibiting nothing, save damp plastered walls, mouldering -floors, and cracked windows. A well-known perfume issuing from this -apartment, proclaimed the neighbourhood of those fragrant animals, which -you perfectly recollect were the joy of my infancy, and presently three -or four couple of spanking yellow rabbits made their appearance. A -racoon poked his head out of a coop, whilst an owl lifted up the gloom -of his countenance, and gave us his malediction. - -My nose having lost all relish for _rabbitish_ odours, took refuge in my -handkerchief; there did I keep it snug till it pleased our conductors to -light us through two or three closets, all of a flutter with Virginia -nightingales, goldfinches, and canary-birds, into the stable. Several -game-cocks fell a crowing with most triumphant shrillness upon our -approach; and a monkey--the image of poor Brandoin--expanded his jaws in -so woful a manner, that I grew melancholy, and paid the hunters not half -the attention they merited. - -At length we got into the open air again, made our bows and departed. -The evening was become serene and pleasant, the moon beamed brilliantly -on the sea; but the owls, who are never to be pleased, hooted most -ruefully. - -Good night: I expect to dream of _closed-up doors_,[12] and haunted -passages; rats, puppies, racoons, game-cocks, rabbits, and dormice. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - A blustering night.--Tedium of the language of the - compass.--Another excursion to Trefusis. - - -Falmouth, March 10, 1787. - -I thought last night our thin pasteboard habitation would have been -blown into the sea, for never in my life did I hear such dreadful -blusterings. Perhaps the winds are celebrating the approach of the -equinox, or some high festival in olus's calendar, with which we poor -mortals are unacquainted. How tired I am of the language of the compass, -of wind shifting to this point and veering to the other; of gales -springing up, and breezes freshening; of rough seas, clear berths, ships -driving, and anchors lifting. Oh! that I was rooted like a tree, in some -sheltered corner of an inland valley, where I might never hear more of -saltwater or sailing. - -You cannot wonder at my becoming impatient, after eleven days' -captivity, nor at my wishing myself anywhere but where I am: I should -almost prefer a quarantine party at the new elegant Lazaretto off -Marseilles, to this smoky residence; at least, I might there learn some -curious particulars of the Levant, enjoy bright sunshine, and perfect -myself in Arabic. But what can a being of my turn do at Falmouth? I have -little taste for the explanation of fire-engines, Mr. Scott; the pursuit -of hares under the auspices of young Trefusis; or the gliding of -billiard-balls in the society of Barbadoes Creoles and packet-boat -captains. The Lord have mercy upon me! now, indeed, do I perform -penance. - -Our dinner yesterday went off tolerably well. We had _on_ the table a -savoury pig, right worthy of Otaheite, and some of the finest poultry I -ever tasted; and _round_ the table two or three brace of odd Cornish -gentlefolks, not deficient in humour and originality. - -About eight in the evening, six game-cocks were ushered into the -eating-room by two limber lads in scarlet jackets; and, after a flourish -of crowing, the noble birds set-to with surprising keenness. Tufts of -brilliant feathers soon flew about the apartment; but the carpet was -not stained with the blood of the combatants: for, to do Trefusis -justice, he has a generous heart, and takes no pleasure in cruelty. The -cocks were unarmed, had their spurs cut short, and may live to fight -fifty such harmless battles. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Regrets produced by Contrasts. - - -Falmouth, March 11, 1787. - -What a fool was I to leave my beloved retirement at Evian! Instead of -viewing innumerable transparent rills falling over the amber-coloured -rocks of Melierie, I am chained down to contemplate an oozy beach, -deserted by the sea, and becrawled with worms tracking their way in the -slime that harbours them. Instead of the cheerful crackling of a -wood-fire in the old baron's great hall, I hear the bellowing of winds -in narrow chimneys. You must allow the aromatic fragrance of fir-cones, -such heaps of which I used to burn in Savoy, is greatly preferable to -the exhalations of Welsh coal, and that to a person wrapped up in -musical devotion, high mass must be a good deal superior to the hummings -and hawings of a Quaker assembly. Colett swears he had rather be -boarded at the Inquisition than remain at the mercy of the confounded -keeper of this hotel, the worst and the dearest in Christendom. We are -all tired to death, and know not what to do with ourselves. - -As I look upon ennui to be very catching, I shall break off before I -give you a share of it. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant - vegetation.--A serene day.--Anticipations of the voyage. - - -Falmouth, March 13, 1787. - -No prospect of launching this day upon the ocean. Every breeze is -subsided, and a profound calm established. I walk up and down the path -which leads to Pen-dennis Castle with folded arms, in a most listless -desponding mood. Vast brakes of furze, much stouter and loftier than any -with which I am acquainted, scent the air with the perfume of apricots. -Primroses, violets, and fresh herbs innumerable expand on every bank. -Larks, poised in the soft blue sky, warble delightfully. The sea, far -and wide, is covered with fishing-boats; and such a stillness prevails, -that I hear the voices of the fishermen. - -You will be rambling in sheltered alleys, whilst winds and currents -drive me furiously along craggy shores, under the scowl of a -tempestuous sky. You will be angling for perch, whilst sharks are -whetting their teeth at me. Methinks I hear the voracious gluttons -disputing the first snap, and pointing upwards their cold slimy noses. -Out upon them! I have no desire to invade their element, or (using -poetical language) to plough those plains of waves which brings them -rich harvests of carcasses, and had much rather cling fast to the green -banks of Pen-dennis. I even prefer mining to sailing; and of the two, -had rather be swallowed up by the earth than the ocean. - -I wish some "swart fairy of the mine" would snatch me to her -concealments. Rather than pass a month in the qualms of sea-sickness, I -would consent to live three by candlelight, in the deepest den you could -discover, stuck close to a foul midnight hag as mouldy as a rotten -apple. - -This, you will tell me, is being very energetic in my aversions, that I -allow; but such, you know, is my trim, and I cannot help it. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths - in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the - Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petticoats.--Force of - education.--Royalty without power.--Return from the Palace. - - -30th May, 1787. - -Horne persuaded me much against my will to accompany him in his -Portuguese chaise to Pagliavam, the residence of John the Fifth's -bastards, instead of following my usual track along the sea-shore. The -roads to this stately garden are abominable, and more infested by -beggars, dogs, flies, and musquitoes, than any I am acquainted with. The -villa itself, which belongs to the Marquis of Lourical, is placed in a -hollow, and the tufted groves which surround it admit not a breath of -air; so I was half suffocated the moment I entered their shade. - -A great flat space before the garden-front of the villa is laid out in -dismal labyrinths of clipped myrtle, with lofty pyramids rising from -them, in the style of that vile Dutch maze planted by King William at -Kensington, and rooted up some years ago by King George the Third. -Beyond this puzzling ground are several long alleys of stiff dark -verdure, called _ruas_, _i. e._ literally streets, with great propriety, -being more close, more formal, and not less dusty than High-Holborn. I -deviated from them into plats of well-watered vegetables and aromatic -herbs, enclosed by neat fences of cane, covered with an embroidery of -the freshest and most perfect roses, quite free from insects and -cankers, worthy to have strewn the couches and graced the bosom of Lais, -Aspasia, or Lady----. You know how warmly every mortal of taste delights -in these lovely flowers; how frequently, and in what harmonious numbers, -Ariosto has celebrated them. Has not Lady ---- a whole apartment painted -over with roses? Does she not fill her bath with their leaves, and deck -her idols with garlands of no other flowers? and is she not quite in the -right of it? - -Whilst I was poetically engaged with the roses, Horne entered into -conversation with a sort of Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse to -their bastard highnesses. He had a snug well-powdered wig, a bright -silver-hilted sword, a crimson full-dress suit, and a gently bulging -paunch. With one hand in his bosom and the other in the act of taking -snuff, he harangued emphatically upon the holiness, temperance, and -chastity of his august masters, who live sequestered from the world in -dingy silent state, abhor profane company, and never cast a look upon -females. - -Being curious to see the abode of these semi-royal sober personages, I -entered the palace. Not an insect stirred, not a whisper was audible. -The principal apartments consist in a suite of lofty-coved saloons, -nobly proportioned, and uniformly hung with damask of the deepest -crimson. The upper end of each room is doubly shaded by a ponderous -canopy of cut velvet. To the right and left appear rows of huge -elbow-chairs of the same materials. No glasses, no pictures, no gilding, -no decoration, but heavy drapery; even the tables are concealed by cut -velvet flounces, in the style of those with which our dowagers used -formerly to array their toilets. The very sight of such close tables is -enough to make one perspire; and I cannot imagine what demon prompted -the Portuguese to invent such a fusty fashion. - -This taste for putting commodes and tables into petticoats is pretty -general here, at least in royal apartments. At Queluz, not a card or -dining-table has escaped; and many an old court-dress, I should suspect, -has been cut up to furnish these accoutrements, which are of all -colours, plain and flowered, pastorally sprigged or gorgeously -embroidered. Not so at Pagliavam. Crimson alone prevails, and casts its -royal gloom unrivalled on every object. Stuck fast to the wall, between -two of the aforementioned tables, are two fauteuils for their -highnesses; and opposite, a rank of chairs for those reverend fathers in -God who from time to time are honoured with admittance. - -How mighty is the force of Education!--What pains it must require on the -part of nurses, equerries, and chamberlains, to stifle every lively and -generous sensation in the princelings they educate,--to break a human -being into the habits of impotent royalty! Dignity without command is -one of the heaviest of burthens. A sovereign may employ himself; he has -the choice of good or evil; but princes, like those of Pagliavam, -without power or influence, who have nothing to feed on but imaginary -greatness, must yawn their souls out, and become in process of time as -formal and inanimate as the pyramids of stunted myrtle in their gardens. -Happier were those babies King John did not think proper to recognize, -and they are not few in number, for that pious monarch, - - "Wide as his command, - "Scattered his Maker's image through the land." - -They, perhaps, whilst their brothers are gaping under rusty canopies, -tinkle their guitars in careless moonlight rambles, wriggle in gay -fandangos, or enjoy sound sleep, rural fare, and merriment, in the -character of jolly village curates. - -I was glad to get out of the palace; its stillness and gloom depressed -my spirits, and a confined atmosphere, impregnated with the smell of -burnt lavender, almost overcame me. I am just returned gasping for air. -No wonder; one might as well be in bed with a warming-pan as in a -Portuguese cariole with the portly Horne, who carries a noble -protuberance, set off in this season with a satin waistcoat richly -spangled. - -I must go to Cintra, or I shall expire! - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic - Gardens.--Aafatas.--Description of the Gardens and Terraces. - - -May 31, 1787. - -It is in vain I call upon clouds to cover me and fogs to wrap me up. You -can form no adequate idea of the continual glare of this renowned -climate. Lisbon is the place in the world best calculated to make one -cry out - - "Hide me from day's garish eye;" - -but where to hide is not so easy. Here are no thickets of pine as in the -classic Italian villas, none of those quivering poplars and leafy -chestnuts which cover the plains of Lombardy. The groves in the -immediate environs of this capital are composed of--with, alas! but few -exceptions--dwarfish orange-trees and cinder-coloured olives. Under -their branches repose neither shepherds nor shepherdesses, but -whitening bones, scraps of leather, broken pantiles, and passengers not -unfrequently attended by monkeys, who, I have been told, are let out for -the purpose of picking up a livelihood. Those who cannot afford this -apish luxury, have their bushy poles untenanted by affectionate -relations, for yesterday just under my window I saw two blessed babies -rendering this good office to their aged parent. - -I had determined not to have stirred beyond the shade of my awning; -however, towards eve, the extreme fervour of the sun being a little -abated, old Horne (who has yet a colt's-tooth) prevailed upon me to walk -in the Botanic Gardens, where not unfrequently are to be found certain -youthful animals of the female gender called Aafatas, in Portuguese; a -species between a bedchamber woman and a maid of honour. The Queen has -kindly taken the ugliest with her to the Caldas: those who remain have -large black eyes sparkling with the true spirit of adventure, an -exuberant flow of dark hair, and pouting lips of the colour and size of -full-blown roses. - -All this, you will tell me, does not compose a perfect beauty. I never -meant to convey such a notion: I only wish you to understand that the -nymphs we have just quitted are the flowers of the Queen's flock, and -that she has, at least, four or five dozen more in attendance upon her -sacred person, with larger mouths, smaller eyes, and swarthier -complexions. - -Not being in sufficient spirits to flourish away in Portuguese, my -conversation was chiefly addressed to a lovely blue-eyed Irish girl of -fifteen or sixteen, lately married to an officer of her Majesty's -customs. Spouse goes a pilgrimaging to Nossa Senhora do Cabo--little -madam whisks about the Botanic Garden with the ladies of the palace and -a troop of sopranos, who teach her to warble and speak Italian. She is -well worth teaching everything in their power. Her hair of the loveliest -auburn, her straight Grecian eyebrows and fair complexion, form a -striking contrast to the gipsy-coloured skins and jetty tresses of her -companions. She looked like a visionary being skimming along the alleys, -and leaving the pot-bellied sopranos and dowdy Aafatas far behind, -wondering at her agility. - -The garden is pleasant enough, situated upon an eminence, planted with -light flowering trees clustered with blossoms. Above their topmost -branches rises a broad majestic terrace, with marble balustrades of -shining whiteness and strange Oriental pattern. They design -indifferently in this country, but execute with great neatness and -precision. I never saw balustrades better hewn or chiseled than those -bordering the steps which lead up to the grand terrace. Its ample -surface is laid out in oblong compartments of marble, containing no very -great variety of heliotropes, aloes, geraniums, china-roses, and the -commonest plants of our green-houses. Such ponderous divisions have a -dismal effect; they reminded one of a place of interment, and it struck -me as if the deceased inhabitants of the adjoining palace were sprouting -up in the shape of prickly-pears, Indian-figs, gaudy holly-oaks, and -peppery capsicums. - -The terrace is about fifteen hundred paces in length. Three copious -fountains give it an air of coolness, much increased by the waving of -tall acacias, exposed by their lofty situation to every breeze which -blows from the entrance of the Tagus, whose lovely azure appears to -great advantage between the quivering foliage. - -The Irish girl and your faithful correspondent coursed each other like -children along the terrace, and when tired reposed under a group of -gigantic Brazilian aloes by one of the fountains. The swarthy party -detached its principal guardian, a gawky young priest, to observe all -the wanderings and riposos of us white people. - -It was late, and the sun had set several minutes before I took my -departure. Black eyes and blue eyes seem horridly jealous of each other. -I fear my youthful and lively companion will suffer for having more -alertness than the Aafatas: she will be pinched, if I am not mistaken, -as the party return through the dark and intricate passages which join -the palace of the Ajuda to the gardens. Sad thought, the leaving such a -fair little being in the hands of fiery, despotic females, so greatly -her inferiors in complexion and delicacy. - -They will take especial care, I warrant them, to fill the husband's head -with suspicions less charitable than those inspired by Nossa Senhora do -Cabo. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of - Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its - much revered Masters.--Collection of Rarities.--The Viceroy of - Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A Night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary - Procession.--Blessings of Patriarchal Government. - - -3 June, 1787. - -We went by special invitation to the royal Convent of the Necessidades, -belonging to the Oratorians, to see the ceremony of consecrating a -father of that order Bishop of Algarve, and were placed fronting the -altar in a gallery crowded with important personages in shining raiment, -the relations of the new prelate. The floor being spread with rich -Persian carpets and velvet cushions, it was pretty good kneeling; but, -notwithstanding this comfortable accommodation, I thought the ceremony -would never finish. There was a mighty glitter of crosses, censers, -mitres, and crosiers, continually in motion, as several bishops -assisted in all their pomp. - -The music, which was extremely simple and pathetic, appeared to affect -the grandees in my neighbourhood very profoundly, for they put on woful -contrite countenances, thumped their breasts, and seemed to think -themselves, as most of them are, miserable sinners. Feeling oppressed by -the heat and the sermon, I made my retreat slyly and silently from the -splendid gallery, and passed through some narrow corridors, as warm as -flues, into the garden. - -But this was only exchanging one scene of formality and closeness for -another. I panted after air, and to obtain that blessing escaped through -a little narrow door into the wild free valley of Alcantara. Here all -was solitude and humming of bees, and fresh gales blowing from the -entrance of the Tagus over the tufted tops of orange gardens. The -refreshing sound of water-wheels seemed to give me new life. - -I set the sun at defiance, and advanced towards that part of the valley -across which stretches the enormous aqueduct you have heard so often -mentioned as the most colossal edifice of its kind in Europe. It has -only one row of pointed openings, and the principal arch, which crosses -a rapid brook, measures above two hundred and fifty feet in height. The -Pont de Garde and Caserta have several rows of arches one above the -other, which, by dividing the attention, take off from the size of the -whole. There is a vastness in this single range that strikes with -astonishment. I sat down on a fragment of rock, under the great arch, -and looked up to the vaulted stone-work so high above me with a -sensation of awe not unallied to fear; as if the building I gazed upon -was the performance of some immeasurable being endued with gigantic -strength, who might perhaps take a fancy to saunter about his works this -morning, and, in mere awkwardness, crush me to atoms. - -Hard by the spot where I sat are several inclosures filled with canes, -eleven or twelve feet high: their fresh green leaves, agitated by the -feeblest wind, form a perpetual murmur. I am fond of this rustling, and -suffered myself to be lulled by it into a state of very necessary repose -after the fatigues of scrambling over crags and precipices. - -As soon as I returned from my walk, Horne took me to dine with him, and -afterwards to the Marialva Palace to pay the Grand Prior a visit. The -court-yard, filled with shabby two-wheeled chaises, put me in mind of -the entrance of a French post-house; a recollection not weakened by the -sight of several ample heaps of manure, between which we made the best -of our way up the great staircase, and had near tumbled over a swingeing -sow and her numerous progeny, which escaped from under our legs with -bitter squeakings. - -This hubbub announced our arrival, so out came the Grand Prior, his -nephew, the old Abade, and a troop of domestics. All great Portuguese -families are infested with herds of these, in general, ill-favoured -dependants; and none more than the Marialvas, who dole out every day -three hundred portions, at least, of rice and other eatables to as many -greedy devourers. - -The Grand Prior had shed his pontifical garments and did the honours of -the house, and conducted us with much agility all over the apartments, -and through the _mange_, where the old Marquis, his brother, though at -a very advanced age, displays feats of the most consummate -horsemanship. He seems to have a decided taste for clocks, compasses, -and time-keepers. I counted no less than ten in his bedchamber; four or -five in full swing, making a loud hissing: they were chiming and -striking away (for it was exactly six) when I followed my conductor up -and down half-a-dozen staircases into a saloon hung with rusty damask. - -A table in the centre of this antiquated apartment was covered with -rarities brought forth for our inspection; curious shell-work, ivory -crucifixes, models of ships, housings embroidered with feathers, and the -Lord knows what besides, stinking of camphor enough to knock one down. - -Whilst we were staring with all our eyes and holding our handkerchiefs -to our noses, the Count of V----, Viceroy of Algarve, made his -appearance, in grand pea-green and pink and silver gala, straddling and -making wry faces as if some disagreeable accident had befallen him. He -was, however, in a most gracious mood, and received our eulogiums upon -his relation, the new bishop, with much complacency. Our conversation -was limpingly carried on in a great variety of broken languages. -Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, French, and English, had each their turn -in rapid succession. The subject of all this polyglottery was the -glories and piety of John the Fifth, regret for the extinction of the -Jesuits, and the reverse for the death of Pombal, whose memory he holds -in something not distantly removed from execration. This flow of -eloquence was accompanied by the strangest, most buffoonical grimaces -and slobberings I ever beheld, for the Viceroy having a perennial -moistness of mouth, drivels at every syllable. - -One must not, however, decide too hastily upon outward appearances. This -slobbering, canting personage, is a distinguished statesman and good -officer, pre-eminent amongst the few who have seen service and given -proofs of prowess and capacity. - -To escape the long-winded narrations which were pouring warm into my -ear, I took refuge near a harpsichord, where Policarpio, one of the -first tenors in the Queen's chapel, was singing and accompanying -himself. The curtains of the door of an adjoining dark apartment being -half drawn, gave me a transient glimpse of Donna Henriquetta de L----, -Don Pedro's sister, advancing one moment and retiring the next, eager to -approach and examine us exotic beings, but not venturing to enter the -saloon during her mother's absence. She appeared to me a most -interesting girl, with eyes full of bewitching languor;--but of what do -I talk? I only saw her pale and evanescent, as one fancies one sees -objects in a dream. A group of lovely children (her sisters, I believe) -sat at her feet upon the ground, resembling genii partially concealed by -folds of drapery in some grand allegorical picture by Rubens or Paul -Veronese. - -Night approaching, lights glimmered on the turrets, terraces, and every -part of the strange huddle of buildings of which this morisco-looking -palace is composed; half the family were engaged in reciting the -litanies of saints, the other in freaks and frolics, perhaps of no very -edifying nature: the monotonous staccato of the guitar, accompanied by -the low soothing murmur of female voices singing modinhas, formed -altogether a strange though not unpleasant combination of sounds. - -I was listening to them with avidity, when a glare of flambeaus, and -the noise of a splashing and dashing of water, called us out upon the -verandas, in time to witness a procession scarcely equalled since the -days of Noah. I doubt whether his ark contained a more heterogeneous -collection of animals than issued from a scalera with fifty oars, which -had just landed the old Marquis of M. and his son Don Jos, attended by -a swarm of musicians, poets, bullfighters, grooms, monks, dwarfs, and -children of both sexes, fantastically dressed. - -The whole party, it seems, were returned from a pilgrimage to some -saint's nest or other on the opposite shore of the Tagus. First jumped -out a hump-backed dwarf, blowing a little squeaking trumpet three or -four inches long; then a pair of led captains, apparently commanded by a -strange, old, swaggering fellow in a showy uniform, who, I was told, had -acted the part of a sort of brigadier-general in some sort of an island. -Had it been Barataria, Sancho would soon have sent him about his -business, for, if we believe the scandalous chronicle of Lisbon, a more -impudent buffoon, parasite, and pilferer seldom existed. - -Close at his heels stalked a savage-looking monk, as tall as Samson, -and two Capuchin friars, heavily laden, but with what sort of provision -I am ignorant; next came a very slim and sallow-faced apothecary, in -deep sables, completely answering in gait and costume the figure one -fancies to one's self of Senhor Apuntador, in Gil Blas, followed by a -half-crazed improvisatore, spouting verses at us as he passed under the -balustrades against which we were leaning. - -He was hardly out of hearing before a confused rabble of watermen and -servants with bird-cages, lanterns, baskets of fruit, and chaplets of -flowers, came gamboling along to the great delight of a bevy of -children; who, to look more like the inhabitants of Heaven than even -Nature designed, had light fluttering wings attached to their -rose-coloured shoulders. Some of these little theatrical angels were -extremely beautiful, and had their hair most coquettishly arranged in -ringlets. - -The old Marquis is doatingly fond of them; night and day they remain -with him, imparting all the advantages that can possibly be derived from -fresh and innocent breath to a declining constitution. The patriarch of -the Marialvas has followed this regimen many years, and also some -others which are scarcely credible. Having a more than Roman facility of -swallowing an immense profusion of dainties, and making room continually -for a fresh supply, he dines alone every day between two silver canteens -of extraordinary magnitude. Nobody in England would believe me if I -detailed the enormous repast I saw spread out for him; but let your -imagination loose upon all that was ever conceived in the way of -gormandizing, and it will not in this case exceed the reality. - -As soon as the contents, animal and vegetable, of the principal scalera, -and three or four other barges in its train, had been deposited in their -respective holes, corners, and roosting-places, I received an invitation -from the old Marquis to partake of a collation in his apartment. Not -less, I am certain, than fifty servants were in waiting, and exclusive -of half-a-dozen wax-torches, which were borne in state before us, above -a hundred tapers of different sizes were lighted up in the range of -rooms, intermingled with silver braziers and cassolettes diffusing a -very pleasant perfume. I found the master of all this magnificence most -courteous, affable, and engaging. There is an urbanity and good-humour -in his looks, gestures, and tone of voice, that prepossesses -instantaneously in his favour, and justifies the universal popularity he -enjoys, and the affectionate name of Father, by which the Queen and -Royal Family often address him. All the favours of the crown have been -heaped upon him by the present and preceding sovereigns, a tide of -prosperity uninterrupted even during the grand vizariat of Pombal. "Act -as you judge wisest with the rest of my nobility," used to say the King -Don Joseph to this redoubted minister; "but beware how you interfere -with the Marquis of Marialva." - -In consequence of this decided predilection, the Marialva Palace became -in many cases a sort of rallying point, an asylum for the oppressed; and -its master, in more than one instance, a shield against the thunderbolts -of a too powerful minister. The recollections of these times seem still -to be kept alive; for the heart-felt respect, the filial adoration, I -saw paid the old Marquis, was indeed most remarkable; his slightest -glances were obeyed, and the person on whom they fell seemed gratified -and animated; his sons, the Marquis of Tancos and Don Jos de Meneses, -never approached to offer him anything without bending the knee; and the -Conde de Villaverde, the heir of the great house of Anjeja, as well as -the Viceroy of Algarve, stood in the circle which was formed around him, -receiving a kind or gracious word with the same thankful earnestness as -courtiers who hang upon the smiles and favour of their sovereign. I -shall long remember the grateful sensations with which this scene of -reciprocal kindness filled me; it appeared an interchange of amiable -sentiments; beneficence diffused without guile or affectation, and -protection received without sullen or abject servility. - -How preferable is patriarchal government of this nature to the cold -theories pedantic sophists would establish, and which, should success -attend their selfish atheistical ravings, bid fair to undermine the best -and surest props of society! When parents cease to be honoured by their -children, and the feelings of grateful subordination in those of -helpless age or condition are unknown, kings will soon cease to reign, -and republics to be governed by the councils of experience; anarchy, -rapine, and massacre will walk the earth, and the abode of dmons be -transferred from hell to our unfortunate planet. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the - streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the Sacrament - in awful state.--Gorgeous Procession.--Bewildering confusion of - sounds. - - -7th June. - -A most sonorous peal of bells, an alarming rattle of drums, and a -piercing flourish of trumpets, roused me at daybreak. You are too -piously disposed to be ignorant that this day is the festival of the -Corpo de Deos. I had half a mind to have stayed at home, turning over a -curious collection of Portuguese chronicles the Prior of Avis has just -sent to me; but I was told such wonders of the expected procession that -I could not refuse giving myself a little trouble in order to witness -them. - -Everybody was gone before I set out, and the streets of the suburb I -inhabit, as well as those in the city through which I passed in my way -to the patriarchal cathedral, were entirely deserted. A pestilence -seemed to have swept the Great Square and the busy environs of the -Exchange and India House; for even vagrants, scavengers, and beggars, in -the last state of decrepitude, had all hobbled away to the scene of -action. A few miserable curs sniffing at offals alone remained in the -deserted streets, and I saw no human being at any of the windows, except -half-a-dozen scabby children blubbering at being kept at home. - -The murmur of the crowds, assembled round the _patriarchale_, reached us -a long while before we got into the midst of them, for we advanced with -difficulty between rows of soldiers drawn up in battle array. Upon -turning a dark angle, overshadowed by the high buildings of the seminary -adjoining the patriarchale, we discovered houses, shops, and palaces, -all metamorphosed into tents, and hung from top to bottom with red -damask, tapestry, satin coverlids, and fringed counterpanes glittering -with gold. I thought myself in the midst of the Mogul's encampment, so -pompously described by Bernier. - -The front of the Great Church in particular was most magnificently -curtained; it rises from a vast flight of steps, which were covered -to-day with the yeomen of the Queen's guard in their rich -party-coloured velvet dresses, and a multitude of priests bearing a -gorgeous variety of painted and silken banners; flocks of sallow monks, -white, brown, and black, kept pouring in continually, like turkeys -driving to market. - -This part of the holy display lasting a tiresome while, I grew weary, -and left the balcony, where we were placed most advantageously, and got -into the church. High mass was performing with awful pomp, incense -ascending in clouds, and the light of innumerable tapers blazing on the -diamonds of the ostensory, just elevated by the patriarch with trembling -devout hands to receive the mysterious wafer. - -Before the close of the ceremony, I regained my window, to have a full -view of the coming forth of the Sacrament. All was expectation and -silence in the people. The guards had ranged them on each side of the -steps before the entrance of the church. At length a shower of aromatic -herbs and flowers announced the approach of the patriarch, bearing the -host under a regal canopy, surrounded by grandees, and preceded by a -long train of mitred figures, their hands joined in prayer, their -scarlet and purple vestments sweeping the ground, their attendants -bearing croziers, crosses, and other insignia of pontifical grandeur. - -The procession slowly descending the flights of stairs to the sound of -choirs and the distant thunder of artillery, lost itself in a winding -street decorated with embroidered hangings, and left me with my senses -in a whirl, and my eyes dazzled, as if awakened from a vision of -celestial splendour.... My head swims at this moment, and my ears tingle -with a confusion of sounds, bells, voices, and the echoes of cannon, -prolonged by mountains and wafted over waters. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian - wife.--Magnificent repast.--A tragic damsel. - - -11th June, 1787. - -To-day we were engaged to dine in the country at a villa belonging to a -gentleman, whose volley of names, when pronounced with the true -Portuguese twang, sounds like an expectoration--Jos Street-Arriaga-Brum -da Silveira. Our hospitable host is of Irish extraction, boasts a -stature of six feet, proportionable breadth, a ruddy countenance, -herculean legs, and all the exterior attributes, at least, of that -enterprising race, who often have the luck of marrying great fortunes. -About a year or two ago he bore off a wealthy Brazilian heiress, and is -now master of a large estate and a fubsical, squat wife, with a head not -unlike that of Holofernes in old tapestry, and shoulders that act the -part of a platter with rather too much exactitude. Poor soul! to be -sure, she is neither a Venus nor a Hebe, has a rough lip, and a manly -voice, and I fear is somewhat inclined to be dropsical; but her smiles -are frequent and fondling, and she cleaves to her husband with great -perseverance. - -He is an odd character, will accept of no employment, civil or military, -and affects a bullying frankness, that I should think must displease -very much in this country, where independence either in fortune or -sentiment is a crime seldom if ever tolerated. - -Mr. S---- likes a display, and the repast he gave us was magnificent; -sixty dishes at least, eight smoking roasts, and every ragout, French, -English, and Portuguese, that could be thought of. The dessert appeared -like the model of a fortification. The principal cake-tower measured, I -dare say, three feet perpendicular in height. The company was not equal -either in number or consequence to the splendour of the entertainment. - -Had not Miss Sill and Bezerra been luckily in my neighbourhood, I should -have perished with _ennui_. One stately damsel, with portentous -eyebrows, and looks that reproached the male part of the assembly with -inattention, was the only lady of the palace Mr. S---- had invited. - -I expected to have met the whole troop of my Botanic Garden -acquaintance, and to have escorted them about the vineyards and -citron-orchards which surround this villa; but, alas! I was not destined -to any such amusing excursion. The tragic damsel, who I am told has been -unhappy in her tender attachments, took my arm, and never quitted it -during a long walk through Mr. S----'s ample possessions. We conversed -in Italian, and paid the birds that were singing, and the rills that -were murmuring, many fine compliments in a sort of prose run mad, -borrowed from operas and serenatas, the Aminto of Tasso, and the Adone -of Marini. - -The sun was just diffusing his last rays over the distant rocks of -Cintra, the air balsamic, and the paths amongst the vines springing with -fresh herbage and a thousand flowers revived by last night's rain. -Giving up the narrow tract which leads through these rural regions to -the signora, I stalked by her side in a furrow well garnished with -nettles, acanthus, and dwarf aloes, stinging and scratching myself at -every step. This penance, and the disappointment I was feeling most -acutely, put me not a little out of humour; I regretted so delicious an -evening should pass away in such forlorn company, and lacerating my legs -to so little purpose. How should I have enjoyed rambling with the young -Irish girl about these pleasant clover paths, between festoons of -luxuriant leaves and tendrils, not fastened to stiff poles and stumpy -stakes as in France and Switzerland, but climbing up light canes eight -or ten feet in height! - -Pinioned as I was, you may imagine I felt no inclination to prolong a -walk which already had been prolonged unconscionably. I escaped tea and -playing at voltarete, made a solemn bow to the solemn damsel, and got -home before it was quite dark. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - Pass the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring - Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of - exquisite workmanship.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the - Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. - - -June 12th, 1787. - -We passed the day quite _en famille_ at Belem with a whole legion of -Marialvas. Some reverend fathers, of I know not what community, had sent -them immense messes of soup, very thick, slab, and oily; a portion -which, it seems, the faithful are accustomed to swallow on the eve of -St. Anthony's festival. - -As soon as I decently could, after a collation which was served under an -awning stretched over one of the terraces, I stole out of the circle of -lords, ladies, dwarfs, monks, buffoons, bullies, and almoners, to visit -the neighbouring monastery. I ascended the great stairs, constructed at -the expense of the Infanta Catherine, King Charles the Second's -dowager, and after walking in the cloisters of Emanuel, looked into the -library, which is far from being in the cleanest or best ordered -condition. The spacious and lofty cloisters present a striking spread of -arches, which, though not in the purest style, attract the eye by their -delicately-carved arabesque ornament, and the warm reddish hue of the -marble. The corridor, into which open an almost endless range of cells, -is full five hundred feet in length. Each window has a commodious -resting-place, where the monks loll at their ease and enjoy the view of -the river. - -In a little dark treasury communicating by winding-stairs with that part -of the edifice tradition points out as the habitation of King Emanuel, -when at certain holy seasons he retired within these precincts, I was -shown by candlelight some extremely curious plate, particularly a -custodium, made in the year 1506, of the pure gold of Quiloa. Nothing -can be more beautiful as a specimen of elaborate gothic sculpture, than -this complicated enamelled mass of flying buttresses and fretted -pinnacles, with the twelve Apostles in their niches, under canopies -formed of ten thousand wreaths and ramifications. - -From this gloomy recess, I was conducted to the church, one of the -largest in Portugal, vast, solemn, and fantastic, like the interior of -the Temple of Jerusalem, as I have seen it figured in some old German -Bibles. There was little, however, in the altars or monuments worth any -very minute investigation. - -It fell dark before I went out at the great porch, and found the wide -space before it beginning to catch a vivid gleam from a line of bonfires -on the edge of the Tagus. I could hardly reach my carriage without being -singed by squibs and crackers, and wished myself out the moment I got -into it, a rocket having shot up just under the noses of my mules and -scared them terribly. - -Unless St. Anthony lulls me asleep by a miracle, I must expect no rest -to-night, there is such a whizzing of fireworks, blazing of bonfires and -flourishing of French horns in honour of to-morrow, the five hundred and -fifty-fifth anniversary of that memorable day, when the Holy One of -Lisbon passed by a soft transition to the joys of Paradise. I saw his -image at the door of almost every house and even hovel of this populous -capital, placed on an altar, and decked with a profusion of wax-lights -and flowers. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic - Sermon.--The good Prior of Avis.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent - of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking effigy of the - Saviour.--A young and melancholy Carthusian.--The Cemetery. - - -June 13th, 1787. - -I slept better than I expected: the Saint was propitious, and during the -night cooled the ardour of his votaries and the flames of their bonfires -by a vernal shower, which pattered agreeably this morning amongst the -vineleaves of my garden. The clouds dispersed about eight o'clock, and -at nine, just as I ascended the steps of the new church built over the -identical house where St. Anthony was born, the sun shone out in all its -splendour. - -I cannot say this edifice recalled to my mind the magnificent sanctuary -of Padua, which five years ago on this very day impressed my imagination -so forcibly. Here are no constellations of golden lamps depending by -glittering chains from a mysterious vaulted ceiling, no arcades of -alabaster, no sculptured marbles. The church is supported by two rows of -pillars neatly carved in stone, but wretchedly proportioned. Over the -high altar, where stands the revered image in the midst of a bright -illumination, was stretched a canopy of flowered velvet. This drapery, -richly fringed and tasseled, marks out the spot formerly occupied by the -chamber of the saint, and receives an amber-light from a row of tall -casement windows, the woodwork gleaming with burnished gold. - -A great many broad English faces burst forth from amongst the crowd of -profane vulgar at the portal of the church, and all their eyes were -directed to their enthusiastic countryman, but he was not to be stared -out of a decent countenance. - -The ceremony was extremely pompous. A prelate of the first rank, with a -considerable detachment of priests from the royal chapel, officiated to -the sounds of lively jigs and ranting minuets, better calculated to set -a parcel of water-drinkers a dancing in a pump-room, than to direct the -movements of a pontiff and his assistants. - -After much indifferent music, vocal and instrumental, performed full -gallop in the most rapid allegro, Fr Joa Jacinto, a famous preacher, -mounted the pulpit, lifted up hands and eyes, and poured forth a torrent -of sounding phrases in honour of St. Anthony. What would I not give for -such a voice?--it would almost have reached from Dan unto Beersheba! - -The Father has undoubtedly great powers of elocution, and none of that -canting, nasal whine so common in the delivery of monkish sermons. He -treated kings, tetrarchs, and conquerors, the heroes and sages of -antiquity, with ineffable contempt; reduced their palaces and -fortifications to dust, their armies to pismires, their imperial -vestments to cobwebs, and impressed all his audience, except the -heretical squinters at the door, with the most thorough conviction of -St. Anthony's superiority over these objects of an erring and impious -admiration. - -"Happy," exclaimed the preacher, "were those gothic ages, falsely called -ages of barbarism and ignorance, when the hearts of men, uncorrupted by -the delusive beverage of philosophy, were open to the words of truth -falling like honey from the mouths of saints and confessors, such words -as distilled from the lips of Anthony, yet a suckling hanging at the -breast in this very spot. It was here the spirit of the Most High -descended upon him, here that he conceived the sublime intention of -penetrating into the most turbulent parts of Europe, setting the -inclemency of seasons and the malice of men at defiance, and sprinkling -amongst lawless nations the seeds of grace and repentance. There, my -brethren, is the door out of which he issued. Do you not see him in the -habit of a Menino de Coro, smiling with all the graces of innocence, and -dispensing with his infant hands to a group of squalid children the -portion of nourishment he has just received from his mother? - -"But Anthony, from the first dawn of his existence, lived for others, -and not for himself: he forewent even the luxury of meditation, and -instead of retiring into a peaceful cell, rushed into the world, -helpless and unprotected, lifting high the banner of the Cross amidst -perils and uproar, appeasing wars, settling differences both public and -domestic, exhorting at the risk of his life ruffians and plunderers to -make restitution, and armed misers, guarding their coffers with bloody -swords, to open their hearts and their hands to the distresses of the -widow and the fatherless. - -"Anthony ever sighed after the crown of martyrdom, and had long -entertained an ardent desire of passing over into Morocco, and exposing -himself to the fury of its bigoted and cruel sovereign; but the commands -of his superior retain him on the point of embarkation; he makes a -sacrifice of even this most laudable and glorious ambition; he traverses -Spain, repairs to Assisi, embraces the rigid order of the great St. -Francis, and continues to his last hour administering consolation to the -dejected, fortifying their hopes of heaven, and confirming the faith of -such as were wavering or deluded by a succession of prodigies. The dead -are raised, the sick are healed, the sea is calmed by a glance of St -Anthony; even the lowest ranks of the creation are attracted by -eloquence more than human, and give marks of sensibility. Fish swim in -shoals to hear the word of the Lord; and to convince the obdurate and -those accursed whose hearts the false reasoning of the world had -hardened, mules and animals the most perversely obstinate humble -themselves to the earth when Anthony holds forth the Sacrament, and -acknowledge the presence of the Divinity." - -The sermon ended, fiddling began anew with redoubled vigour, and I, -disgusted with such unseasonable levity, retired home in dudgeon. This -little cloud of peevishness was soon dissipated by the cheering presence -of the good Prior of Avis, than whom there exists not, perhaps, in this -world a more benign, evangelical character; one who gives glory to God -with less ostentation, or bears a more unaffected goodwill towards men. -This excellent prelate had been passing his morning, not in attending -pompous ceremonies, but in consoling the sick and relieving the -indigent; climbing up to their miserable chambers to afford assistance -in the name of the saint whose festival was celebrating, and whose fame, -for every charitable beneficent act, had been handed down by the -inhabitants of Lisbon from father to child, through a long series of -generations. - -Our discourse was not of a nature to incline me to relish pomps and -vanities. I waved seeing the procession which was expected to pass -through the principal streets of the city, and, accompanied by my -reverend friend, enjoyed the serenity of the evening on the shore of -Belem. We stopped as we passed by the Marialva palace, and took up Don -Pedro and his nursing father, the old Abade, who proposed a visit to the -Carthusian convent of Cachiez. - -In about half an hour we were set down before the church, which fronts -the royal gardens, and were ushered into a solemn, silent quadrangle. -Several spectres of the order were gliding about the cloisters, which -branch off from this court. In the middle is a marble fountain, shaded -by pyramids of clipped box; around are seven or eight small chapels; one -of which contains a coloured image of the Saviour in the last dreadful -agonies of his passion, covered with livid bruises and corrupted gore. - -Whilst we were examining this too faithful effigy, some of the monks, by -leave of their superior, gathered around us; one of them, a tall -interesting figure, attracted my attention by the deep melancholy which -sat upon his features. Upon inquiry, I learned he was only -two-and-twenty years of age, of illustrious parentage, and lively -talents; but the immediate cause of his having sought these mansions of -stillness and mortification, the Grand Prior seemed loth to communicate. - -I could not help observing, as this young victim stood before me, and I -contemplated the evening light thrown on the arcades of the quadrangle, -how many setting suns he was likely to behold wasting their gleams upon -these walls, and what a wearisome succession of years he had in all -probability devoted himself to consume within their precincts. The eyes -of the good prior filled with tears, Verdeil shuddered, and the Abade, -forgetting the superstitious part he generally acts in religious places, -exclaimed loudly against the toleration of human sacrifices, and the -folly of permitting those to renounce the world, whose youth -incapacitates them from making a due estimate of its sorrows or -advantages. As for Don Pedro, his serious disposition received -additional gloom from the objects with which we were environed. - -The chill gust that blew from an arched hall where the fathers are -interred, and whose pavement returned a hollow sound as we walked over -it, struck him with horror. It was the first time of his entering a -Carthusian convent, and, to my surprise, he appeared ignorant of the -severities of the order. - -The sun set before we regained our carriage, and our conversation the -whole way home partook of the impression which the scenery we had been -contemplating inspired. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor - Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.--Visit to the - Theatre in the Rua d'os Condes.--The Archbishop - Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching nature of that - music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm of the young Conde de - Villanova.--No accounting for fancies. - - -14th June, 1787. - -It was my lot this afternoon to receive a curious succession of -visitors. First came Pombal, who looked worn down with gay living and -late hours; but there is an ease and fashion in his address not common -in this country. Though he possesses one of the largest landed estates -in the kingdom, (about one hundred and twenty thousand crowns a-year,) -he wished me to understand that his dread father, the scourge and terror -of the noblest houses in Portugal, the sole dispenser during so many -years of the royal treasure, died, notwithstanding, in distressed -circumstances, loaded with debts contracted in supporting the dignity -of his post. - -The next who did me the honour of a visit was the Judge Conservator of -the English factory, Joa Telles, a relation, legitimate or illegitimate -(I know not exactly which), of the Penalvas. This man, who has risen to -one of the highest posts of the law by the sole strength of his -abilities, has a nervous, original style of expression, which put me in -mind of Lord Thurlow; but to all this vigour of character and diction, -he joins the pliability and subtleness of a serpent; and those he cannot -take by storm, he is sure of overcoming by every soothing art of -flattery and insinuation. - -As soon as he was departed, entered a pair of monks with a basket of -sweetmeats in cut paper, from a good lady abbess, beseeching me to -portion out two sweet virgins as God's spouses in some neighbouring -monastery. - -They were scarcely dismissed, before Father Theodore d'Almeida and -another of his brethren were ushered in. The whites of their eyes alone -were visible, nor could Whitfield himself, the original Doctor Squintum -of Foote, have squinted more scientifically. - -I was all attention to Father Theodore's seraphic discourse; so -excellent an opportunity of hearing a first-rate specimen of -hypocritical cant was not to be neglected. No sooner had the fathers -been conducted to the stairshead with due ceremony, than Monsenhor -Aguilar, one of the prelates of the Patriarchal Cathedral, was -announced. He confirmed me in the opinion I entertained of Father -Theodore. No person can accuse Aguilar of being a hypocrite. He lays -himself but too much open, and treats the church from which he derives a -handsome maintenance, not as a patroness, but as an humble companion; -the constant butt and object of his sarcasms. In Portugal, even in the -year 1787, such conduct is madness, and I fear will expose him one day -or other to severe persecution. - -We were roused from a peaceful dish of tea by a loud hubbub in the -street, and running to the balcony, found a beastly mob of old hags, -children, and ragamuffins assembled, headed by half-a-dozen drummers, -and as many negroes in scarlet jackets, blowing French-horns with -unusual vehemence, and pointing them directly at the house. I was -wondering at this Jericho fashion of besieging one's door, and drawing -back to avoid being singed by a rocket which whizzed along within an -inch of my nose, when one of the servants entered with a crucifix on a -silver salver, and a mighty kind message from the nuns of the Convent of -the Sacrament, who had sent their musicians with trimbrels and -fireworks, to invite us to some grand doings at their convent, in honour -of the Festival of the Heart of Jesus. Really, these church parties -begin to lose in my eyes great part of the charm which novelty gave -them. I have had pretty nearly my fill of motets, and Kyrie eleisons, -and incense, and sweetmeats, and sermons. - -That heretic Verdeil, who would almost as soon be in hell at once as in -such a cloying heaven, would not let me rest till I went with him to the -theatre in the Rua d'os Condes, in order to dissipate by a little -profane air the fumes of so much holiness. The play afforded me more -disgust than amusement; the theatre is low and narrow, and the actors, -for there are no actresses, below criticism. Her Majesty's absolute -commands having swept females off the stage, their parts are acted by -calvish young fellows. Judge what a pleasing effect this metamorphosis -must produce, especially in the dancers, where one sees a stout -shepherdess in virgin white, with a soft blue beard, and a prominent -collar-bone, clenching a nosegay in a fist that would almost have -knocked down Goliah, and a train of milk-maids attending her enormous -foot-steps, tossing their petticoats over their heads at every step. -Such sprawling, jerking, and ogling I never saw before, and hope never -to see again. - -We were heartily sick of the performance before it was half finished, -and the night being serene and pleasant, were tempted to take a ramble -in the Great Square, which received a faint gleam from the lights in the -apartments of the palace, every window being thrown open to catch the -breeze. The Archbishop Confessor displayed his goodly person at one of -the balconies; from a clown, this now most important personage became a -common soldier, from a common soldier a corporal, from a corporal a -monk, in which station he gave so many proofs of toleration and -good-humour, that Pombal, who happened to stumble upon him by one of -those chances which set all calculation at defiance, judged him -sufficiently shrewd, jovial, and ignorant, to make a very harmless and -comfortable confessor to her Majesty, then Princess of Brazil: since her -accession to the throne, he is become Archbishop, _in partibus_, Grand -Inquisitor, and the first spring in the present Government of Portugal. -I never saw a sturdier fellow. He seems to anoint himself with the oil -of gladness, to laugh and grow fat in spite of the critical situation of -affairs in this kingdom, and the just fears all its true patriots -entertain of seeing it once more relapse into a Spanish province. - -At a window immediately over his right reverence's shining forehead, we -spied out the Lacerdas, two handsome sisters, maids of honour to the -Queen, waving their hands to us very invitingly. This was encouragement -enough for us to run up a vast many flights of stairs to their -apartment, which was crowded with nephews and nieces and cousins -clustering round two very elegant young women, who, accompanied by their -singing-master, a little square friar, with greenish eyes, were warbling -Brazilian modinhas. - -Those who have never heard this original sort of music, must and will -remain ignorant of the most bewitching melodies that ever existed since -the days of the Sybarites. They consist of languid interrupted measures, -as if the breath was gone with excess of rapture, and the soul panting -to meet the kindred soul of some beloved object. With a childish -carelessness they steal into the heart, before it has time to arm itself -against their enervating influence; you fancy you are swallowing milk, -and are admitting the poison of voluptuousness into the closest recesses -of your existence. At least, such beings as feel the power of harmonious -sounds are doing so; I won't answer for hard-eared, phlegmatic northern -animals. - -An hour or two passed away almost imperceptibly in the pleasing delirium -these syren notes inspired, and it was not without regret I saw the -company disperse and the spell dissolve. The ladies of the apartment -having received a summons to attend her Majesty's supper, curtsied us -off very gracefully, and vanished. - -In our way home we met the Sacrament, enveloped in a glare of light, -marching in state to pay some sick person a farewell visit; and that -hopeful young nobleman, the Conde de Villa Nova,[13] preceding the -canopy in a scarlet mantle, and tinkling a silver bell. He is always in -close attendance upon the Host, and passes the flower of his days in -this singular species of danglement. No lover was ever more jealous of -his mistress than this ingenuous youth of his bell. He cannot endure any -other person should give it vibration. The parish officers of the -extensive and populous district in which his palace is situated, from -respect to his birth and opulence, indulge him in this caprice, and -indeed a more perseverant bell-bearer they could not have chosen. At all -hours and in all weathers he is ready to perform this holy office. In -the dead of the night, or in the most intense heat of the day, out he -issues and down he dives, or up he climbs, to any dungeon or garret -where spiritual assistance of this nature is demanded. - -It has been again and again observed, that there is no accounting for -fancies. Every person has his own, which he follows to the best of his -means and abilities. The old Marialva's delights are centered between -his two silver recipiendaries; the Marquis his son in dancing attendance -with the Queen; and Villa Nova, in announcing with his bell to all true -believers the approach of celestial majesty. The present rage of the -scribbler of all these extravagances is modinhas, and under its -prevalence he feels half-tempted to set sail for the Brazils, the native -land of these enchanting compositions, to live in tents, such as the -Chevalier de Parny describes in his agreeable little voyage, and swing -in hammocks, or glide over smooth mats surrounded by bands of youthful -minstrels, diffusing at every step the perfume of jasmine and roses. - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night sounds of the city.--Public - gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja - Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous narrations of a young - priest.--Convent of Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore's - chickens.--Sequestered group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. - - -29th June, 1787. - -The bright sunshine which has lately been our portion, glorious as it -is, begins to tire me. Twenty times a day I cannot help wishing myself -extended at full-length upon the fresh herbage of some shady English -valley, where fairies gambol in the twilights of Midsummer, whispering -in the ears of their sleeping favourites the good or evil fortunes which -await them. It is too hot for these oracular little elvish beings in -Portugal, one must not here expect their inspirations; but would to -Heaven some revelation of this or any other nature had warned me off in -time, from the blinding dust and excessive sultriness of Lisbon and its -neighbourhood. How silly, when one is well and cool, to gad abroad, in -the vain hope of making what is really best, better. Depend upon it, -there is more vernal delight and joy in our green hills and copses, than -in all these stunted olive fields and sun-burnt promontories. - -We have a homely saying, that what is poison to one man is meat to -another, and true enough; for these days and nights of glowing -temperature, which oppress me beyond endurance, are the delight and -boast of the inhabitants of this capital. The heat seems not only to -have new venomed the stings of the fleas and the musquitoes, but to have -drawn out, the whole night long, all the human ephemera of Lisbon. They -frisk, and dance, and tinkle their guitars from sunset to sunrise. The -dogs, too, keep yelping and howling without intermission; and what with -the bellowing of litanies by parochial processions, the whizzing of -fireworks, which devotees are perpetually letting off in honour of some -member or other of the celestial hierarchy, and the squabbles of -bullying rake-hells, who scour the streets in search of adventures, -there is no getting a wink of sleep, even if the heat would allow it. - -As to those quiet nocturnal parties, where ingenuous youths rest their -heads, not on the lap of earth, but on that of their mistresses, who are -soothingly employed in delivering the jetty locks of their lovers from -too abundant a population, I have nothing to say against them, nor am I -much disturbed by the dashing sound of a few downfalls[14] from the -windows; but these dog-howlings exceed every annoyance of the kind I -ever endured, and give no slight foretaste of the infernal regions. - -Nothing but amusement and racket being thought of here at this season -(when to celebrate St. Peter's festival with all the noise and -extravagance in your power, is not more a profane inclination than a -pious duty,) that simpleton, the Conde de Villa Nova, opened his garden -last night to the nob and mob-ility of Lisbon. There was a dull -illumination of paper lanterns, and a sort of pavilion awkwardly -constructed for dancing, beneath which the prettiest French and English -mantua-makers, milliners, and abigails of the metropolis, figured away -in cotillons with the Duke of Cadaval and some other young men of the -first distinction, who, like many as hopeful in our own capital, are -never at their ease but in low company. Two or three of my servants -accompanied my tailor to the fte, and returned enraptured with the -affable pleasing manners of the foreign milliners and native nobility. - -I should have been most happy to remain at home, in the shade of my -green blinds, giving ear, through mere laziness, to any nonsense that -anybody chose to say to me; but we had been long engaged to dine with -Don Diego de Noronha, at the Anjeja Palace. - -When we arrived at our destination, we found the heir of the family -surrounded by priests and tutors, learning to look out at the window, -the chief employment of Portuguese fidalgo life. Oh what a precious -collection of stories did I hear at this attic banquet! There happened -to be amongst the company a young oaf of a priest, from I forget what -university (I hope not Coimbra), who kept on during the whole dinner -favouring us with marvellous narrations, such as the late Queen's -pounding a pearl of inestimable value, to swallow in medical potions; -and that one of the nuns of the Convent of the Sacrament, having -intrigued with old Beelzebub _in propria persona_, had been sent to the -Inquisition, and the window through which his infernal majesty had -entered upon this gallant exploit, walled up and painted over with red -crosses. The same precautionary decoration, continued he, has been -bestowed upon every opening in the faade, so that no demon, however -sharp-set, can get in again. He would fain also have made us believe, -that a woman very fair and plump to the eye, with an overflowing breast -of milk, who took in sucklings to nurse cheaper than anybody else, -regularly made away with them, and was now in the dungeons of the holy -office, accused of having minced up above a score of innocents! - -Heaven forbid I should detail any further particulars of our -table-talk; if I did, you would be finely surfeited. - -After dinner the company dispersed, some to their couches, some to hear -a sonata on the dulcimer, accompanied on the jew's harp by a couple of -dwarfs; the heir-apparent to his beloved window; and Verdeil and I to a -convent of Savoyard nuns, at Belem, the coolest, cleanest retirement in -the whole neighbourhood, and blessed into the bargain by the especial -patronage and inspection of Father Theodore d'Almeida. His reverence, it -seems, had been the principal instrument, under Providence, of -transplanting these blessed sprouts of holiness from the Convent of the -Visitation at Annecy to the glowing climate of Portugal. - -As I had just received a sugary epistle from this paragon of piety, -recommending his favourite establishment in several pages of ardent -panegyric, he could do no less than come forth from his interior nest, -and bid us welcome with a countenance arrayed in the sweetest smiles, -though I dare say he wished us at old scratch for our intrusion. - -"Poor things," said he, speaking of the chickens under education in this -coop, "we do all we can to improve their tender minds and their -guileless tongues in foreign languages. Sister Theresa has an admirable -knack for teaching arithmetic; our venerable mother is remarkably -well-bottomed in grammar, and Sister Francisca Salesia, whom I had the -happiness to bring over from Lyons, is not only a most pure and -persuasive moralist, but is acknowledged to be one of the first needles -in Christendom, so we do tolerably well in embroidery. In music we are -no great proficients. We allow of no modinhas, no opera airs; a plain -hymn is all you must expect here; in short, we are ill-fitted to receive -such distinguished visiters, and have nothing the world would call -interesting to recommend us; but then, I, their unworthy confessor, must -allow that such sweet, clean consciences as I meet with in this asylum -are treasures beyond all that the Indies can furnish." - -Both Verdeil and myself, conscious of our own extreme unworthiness, were -quite abashed by this sublime declamation, poured forth with hands -crossed on the bosom, and eyes turned up to the ceiling, like some -images one has seen of St. Ignatius or St. Francis Xavier. - -It was a minute at least before his reverence relaxed from this -attitude, and, drawing a curtain, condescended to admit us into a -spacious parlour, delightfully cool, perfumed with jasmine, and filled -with little Brazilian doves, parroquets, and canary birds. Such a cooing -and chirping was never heard in greater perfection, except in Mahomet's -Paradise; nor were the houries wanting, for in a deep recess, behind a -tolerably wide lattice, sat a row of the loveliest young creatures I -ever beheld. A daughter of my friend Don Jos de Brito was amongst the -number, and her eyes, of the most bewitching softness, seemed to acquire -new fascination in this mysterious sort of twilight, beaming from behind -a double grating of iron. - -Every now and then the birds, not in the least intimidated by the -predatory glances of Father Theodore, violated the sanctuary, and -pitched upon ivory necks, and were received with ten thousand -endearments by the angels of this little sequestered heaven, which -looked so refreshing, and formed by its sacred calm so inviting a -contrast to the turbulent world without, and its glaring atmosphere, -that I could not resist exclaiming, "O that I had wings like a dove, -that I might fly through those bars and be at rest!" - -I need not tell you we passed half-an-hour most delightfully in talking -of music, gardens, roses, and devotion, with the meninas, and had almost -forgotten we were engaged to hear the Scarlati sing. Her father, an old -captain of horse, of Italian extraction, lives not far from the Convent -of the Visitation, so we had not much time during our transit to -experience the woful difference between the cool parlour of the nuns and -the suffocating exterior air. - -A numerous group of the young ladies' kindred stood ready at the -street-door, with all that hospitable courtesy for which the Portuguese -are so remarkably distinguished, to usher the strangers up-stairs into a -gallery hung with arras and sconces, not unlike the great room of an -Italian inn, once the palace of a nobleman. To keep up these post-house -ideas, we scented a strong effluvia of the stable, and heard certain -stampings and neighings, as if a party of hounnyms had arrived to -partake of the concert. - -Many strange, aboriginal figures of both sexes were assembled, an -uncouth collection enough, I am apt to conjecture; however, I soon -ceased giving them any notice. The young lady of the house charmed me at -first sight by her graceful, modest manner; but when she sang some airs, -composed by the famous Perez, I was not less delighted than surprised. -Her voice modulates with unaffected carelessness into the most pathetic -tones.[15] Though she has adopted the masterly and scientific style of -Ferracuti, one of the first singers in the Queen's service, she gives a -simplicity of expression to the most difficult passages, that makes them -appear the effusions of a young romantic girl warbling to herself in the -secret recesses of a forest. - -I sat in a dark corner, unconscious of every thing that passed in the -apartment, of the singular figures that entered, or those that went -away; the starings, whisperings, and fan-flirtings of the assembly were -lost upon me: I could not utter a syllable, and was vexed when an -arbitrary old aunt insisted upon no more singing, and proposed a -faro-table and a dance. - -Most eagerly did I wish all the kindred and their friends petrified for -the time being by some obliging necromancer, and would have done any -thing, short of engaging my own dear self to the devil, to have obtained -an uninterrupted audience of the syren till morning. - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of - Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the - Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famous - Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.--Their - ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese minuets. - - -30th June, 1787. - -...We sallied out after dinner to pay visits. Never did I behold such -cursed ups-and-downs, such shelving descents and sudden rises, as occur -at every step one takes in going about Lisbon. I thought myself fifty -times on the point of being overturned into the Tagus, or tumbled into -sandy ditches, among rotten shoes, dead cats, and negro beldames, who -retire into such dens and burrows for the purpose of telling fortunes -and selling charms for the ague. - -The Inquisition too often lays hold of these wretched sibyls, and works -them confoundedly. I saw one dragging into light as I passed by the -ruins of a palace thrown down by the earthquake. Whether a familiar of -the Inquisition was griping her in his clutches, or whether she was -being taken to account by some disappointed votary, I will not pretend -to answer. Be that as it may, I was happy to be driven out of sight of -this hideous object, whose contortions and howlings were truly horrible. - -The more one is acquainted with Lisbon, the less it answers the -expectations raised by its magnificent appearance from the river. Could -a traveller be suddenly transported without preparation or prejudice to -many parts of this city, he would reasonably conclude himself traversing -a succession of villages awkwardly tacked together, and overpowered by -massive convents. The churches in general are in a woful taste of -architecture, the taste of Borromini, with crinkled pediments, -furbelowed cornices and turrets, somewhat in the style of old-fashioned -French clock-cases, such as Boucher designed with many a scrawl and -flourish to adorn the apartments of Madame de Pompadour. - -We traversed the city this evening in all its extent in our way to the -Duke d'Alafoens's villa, and gave vast numbers of her most faithful -Majesty's subjects an opportunity of staring at the height of the -coach-box, the short jacket of the postilion, and other Anglicisms of -the equipage. The Duke had been summoned to a council of state; but we -found the Marquis of Marialva, who went with us round the apartments of -the villa, which have nothing remarkable except one or two large saloons -of excellent and striking proportions. - -He afterwards proposed accompanying us about half-a-mile farther to the -quinta of Marvilla, which belongs to his father. This spot has great -picturesque beauties. The trees are old and fantastic, bending over -ruined fountains and mutilated statues of heroes in armour, variegated -by the lapse of years with innumerable tints of purple, green, and -yellow. In the centre of almost impenetrable thickets of bay and myrtle, -rise strange pyramids of rock-work surrounded by marble lions, that have -a magic, symbolical appearance. M---- has feeling enough to respect -these uncouth monuments of an age when his ancestors performed so many -heroic achievements, and readily promised me never to sacrifice them and -the venerable shades in which they are embowered, to the pert, gaudy -taste of modern Portuguese gardening. - -We walked part of the way home by the serene light of the full moon -rising from behind the mountains on the opposite shore of the Tagus, at -this extremity of the metropolis above nine miles broad. Lisbon, which -appeared to me so uninteresting a few hours ago, assumed a very -different aspect by these soft gleams. The flights of steps, terraces, -chapels, and porticos of several convents and palaces on the brink of -the river, shone forth like edifices of white marble, whilst the rough -cliffs and miserable sheds rising above them were lost in dark shadows. -The great square through which we passed was filled with idlers of all -sorts and sexes, staring up at the illuminated windows of the palace in -hopes of catching a glimpse of her Majesty, the Prince, the Infantas, -the Confessor, or Maids of Honour, whisking about from one apartment to -the other, and giving ample scope to amusing conjectures. I am told the -Confessor, though somewhat advanced in his career, is far from being -insensible to the allurements of beauty, and pursues the young nymphs of -the palace from window to window with juvenile alacrity. - -It was nine before we got home, and I had not been long reposing myself -after my walk, and arranging some plants I had gathered in the thickets -of Marvilla, before three distinct ringings of the bell at my door -announced the arrival of some distinguished personage; nor was I -disappointed, for in came the old Marquis of Penalva and his son, who -till a year ago, when the Queen granted him the same title as his -father, was called Conde de Tarouca. - -You must have heard frequently of that name. A grandfather of the old -Marquis rendered it very illustrious by several important and successful -embassies: the splendid entertainments he gave at the Congress of -Utrecht, are amply described in Madame du Noyers and several other books -of memoirs. - -The Penalvas brought this evening in their suite a famous Jesuit, Padre -Duarte, whom Pombal thought of sufficient consequence to be imprisoned -for eighteen years, and a tall, knock-kneed, rhubarb-faced physician, -in a gorgeous suit of glistening satin, one of the most ungain, -conceited professors of the art of murdering I ever met with. Between -the Jesuit and the doctor I had enough to do to keep my temper or -countenance. They prated incessantly, pretended to have the most -implicit admiration for everything that came from England, either in the -way of furniture or poetry, and confounding dates, names, and subjects -in one strange jumble, asked whether Sir Peter Lely was not the actual -President of our Royal Academy, and launched forth into a warm encomium -of my countryman Hans Holbein. I begged leave to assure these -complaisant sages, that the last-mentioned artist was born at Basle, and -that Sir Peter Lely had been dead a century. They stared a little at -this information, but continued, nevertheless, in full song, playing off -a sounding peal of compliments upon our national proficiency in -painting, watch-making, the stocking-manufactory, &c. when General -Forbes came in and made a diversion in my favour. We had some -conversation upon the present state of Portugal, and the risks it runs -of being swallowed up by the negotiations, not by the arms of Spain, -ere many years are elapsed.... - -Our discourse was interrupted by the arrival of a fiddler, a priest, and -an Italian musician, humble servants and toad-eaters to my illustrious -guests. They fell a thumping my poor piano-forte, and playing sonatas -whether I would or not. You are aware I am no great friend to sonatas, -and that certain chromatic, squeaking tones of a fiddle, when the -performer turns up the whites of his eyes, waggles a greasy chin, and -affects ecstasies, set my teeth on edge. The griping countenance of the -doctor was enough to produce that effect already, without the assistance -of his fellow parasites, the priest and musician. Padre Duarte seemed to -like them no better than myself; General Forbes had wisely withdrawn; -and the old Marquis, inspired by a pathetic adagio, glided suddenly -across the room in a step which I took for the beginning of a ballet -heroique, but which turned out a minuet in the Portuguese style, with -all its kicks and flourishes, in which Miss S----, who had come in to -tea, was persuaded to join much against her inclination. It was no -sooner ended, than the doctor displayed his rueful length of person in -such a twitching angular minuet, as I want words to describe; so, -between the sister-arts of music and dancing, I passed a delectable -evening. This set shan't catch me at home again in a hurry. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Jos di - Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and - hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious - chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening scene in the garden of - Marvilla. - - -July 2nd, 1787. - -I was awakened in the night by a horrid cry of dogs; not that infernal -pack which Dryden tells us in his divine tale of Theodore and Honoria -went regularly a ghost-hunting every Friday, howled half so dreadfully: -Lisbon is more infested than any other capital I ever inhabited by herds -of these half-famished animals, making themselves of use and importance -by ridding the streets of some part, at least, of their unsavoury -incumbrances. - -Verdeil, who could not sleep any more than myself, on account of a -furious and long protracted battle between two parties of these -hell-hounds, persuaded me to rise with the sun, and proceed on -horseback along the shore of Belem, which appeared in all its morning -glory; the sky diversified by streaming clouds of purple edged with -gold, and the sea by innumerable vessels of different sizes shooting -along in various directions, whilst the waves at the entrance of the -harbour were in violent agitation, all froth and foam. - -To vary our excursion a little, we struck out of the common track, and -visited the convent of San Jos di Ribamar. The building is irregular -and picturesque, rising from a craggy eminence, and backed by a thicket -of elm, bay, and arbor jud. We were shown by simple, smiling friars, -into a small court with cloisters, supported by low Tuscan columns. A -fountain playing in the middle and sprinkling a profusion of flowers, -gave an oriental air to this little court that pleased me exceedingly. -The monks seem sensible of its merits, for they keep it tolerably clean, -which is more than I will say for their garden. Bindweed and dwarf-aloes -almost prevented our crossing it in our way to the thicket; a delicious -retreat, the refuge and comfort of half the birds in the country. Thanks -to monkish laziness, the underwood remains unclipped, and intrudes -wherever it pleases upon the alleys, which hang over the sea, in a bold -romantic manner. - -The fathers would show me their flower-garden, and a very pleasant -terrace it is; neatly paved with chequered tiles, and interspersed with -knots of carnations, in a style as ancient, I should conjecture, as the -dominion of the Moors in Portugal. Espaliers of citron and orange cover -the walls, and have almost gotten the better of some glaring shell-work, -with which a reverend father encrusted them ten or twelve years ago. -Shining beads, china plates and saucers turned inside out, compose the -chief ornaments of this decoration; I observed the same propensity to -shell-work and broken china in a Mr. de Visme, whose quinta at Bemfica -eclipses our Clapham and Islington villas in all the attractions of -leaden statues, Chinese temples, serpentine rivers, and dusty -hermitages. - -We returned home before the heat grew quite intolerable, and just in -time to go to a breakfast at the Marquis of Penalva's, to which we had -been invited the day before yesterday. When once a Portuguese of the -first class determines to admit a stranger into the penetralia of his -family, he spares no pains to set off all he possesses to the most -striking advantage, and offer it to his guest with the most liberal -hospitality; you appear to command him, and he everything. Our -reception, therefore, was most sumptuous and most cordial. - -If we had wished for a concert, the best musicians of the royal chapel -were in waiting to perform it; if to examine early editions of the -classics or scarce Portuguese authors, the library was open, and the -librarian ready to hand and explain to us any article that happened to -attract our attention; if to see pictures, the walls of several -apartments displayed an interesting collection, both of the Italian and -Flemish schools; if conversation, almost every person of literary note -in this capital, academicians and artists, were assembled. Supposing the -rarest botanical specimens and flowers had been our peculiar taste, some -of the most perfect I ever beheld were presented to us; and that nothing -in any line might be wanting, the rich grated folding-doors of a chapel -were expanded, and an altar splendidly lighted up, seemed to invite -those who felt spiritual calls, to indulge themselves. - -For my part, the sea breezes having sharpened my temporal appetite, I -sat down with great alacrity to breakfast. It was magnificent and well -served. I could not help noticing the extreme fineness of the linen, -curiously embroidered with arms and flowers, red on a white ground. -Superb embossed gilt salvers supported plates of iced fruit, -particularly scarlet strawberries, which are uncommon in Portugal, and -filled the apartment with fragrance; the more grateful, as it excited, -by the strong power of associated ideas, recollections of home and of -England. - -Much whispering and giggling was going forward in the cool shade of -several mysterious chambers, which opened into the saloon where we were -at table. These sounds proceeded from the ladies of the family, who, had -they been natives of Bagdad or Constantinople, could hardly have -remained in a more Asiatic state of seclusion. I was allowed, however, -to make my bow to them in their harem itself, which, I was given to -understand, I ought to look upon as a most flattering mark of -distinction. Who should I find in the midst of the group of senhoras, -and seated like them upon the ground _ la faon de Barbarie_, but the -newly-consecrated, and very young-looking Bishop of Algarve, whose -small, black, sleek, schoolboyish head and sallow countenance, was -overshadowed by an enormous pair of green spectacles. Truth obliges me -to confess that the expression which beamed from the eyes under these -formidable glasses, did not absolutely partake of the most decent, mild, -or apostolic character. In process of time, perhaps, he may acquire that -varnish, without which the least holy intentions often miss their aim, -the varnish of hypocrisy. I wonder he has not already attained a more -conspicuous degree of perfection in this style, having studied under a -complete _tartuffe_ and Jansenistical bigot as ever existed, one of the -cock-birds of a nest of imaginary philosophers, who are working hard to -undo what little good has been done in this country, and laying a mine -of ten thousand intrigues to blow up, if they can but contrive it, all -genuine sentiments of religion and morality. - -The old Marquis of Penalva pressed us to stay dinner, which was set out -in high order, in a pleasant, shady apartment. Verdeil could not resist -the temptation; but I was fatigued with the howlings of the night, and -the sultriness and bustle of the day, and went home to a quieter party -with the Grand Prior and Don Pedro. - -In the evening we drove to Marvilla, the neglected garden I have before -mentioned, and which commands the broadest expanse of the Tagus, a -prospect which recalled to my mind the lake of Geneva, and all that -befel me on its banks. You may imagine, then, it tended much more to -depress than exhilarate my spirits. I consented, however, to accompany -the Grand Prior about the alleys and terraces of this romantic -enclosure, the scene of his childhood, and of which he is peculiarly -fond. The palace, courts, and fountains are almost in ruins, the -parterres of myrtle have shot up into wild bushes covered with blossoms, -and the statues are half concealed by jasmine. - -Here is a small theatre for operas, and a chapel, not unlike a mosque in -shape, and arabesque ornaments, darkly shadowed by Spanish banners, the -trophies of the battle of Elvas, gained by an ancestor of the Marialvas. - -A long bower of vines, supported by marble pillars, leads from the -palace to the chapel. There is something majestic in this verdant -gallery, and the glow of sun-set piercing its foliage, lighted up the -wan features of several superannuated servants of the family, who -crawled out of their decayed chambers and threw themselves on their -knees before the Grand Prior and Don Pedro. - -We wandered about this forlorn, abandoned garden, whose stillness -equalled that of a Carthusian convent, till dusk, when a refreshing wind -having risen, waved the cypresses and scattered the white jasmine -flowers over the parterres of myrtle in clouds like snow. Don Pedro -filled the carriage with flowery sprays pulled from mutilated statues, -and we were all half intoxicated before we reached my habitation with -the delicious but overcoming perfume. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalha.--The - Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion designed by Pillement.--A convulsive - gallop.--Cold weather in July. - - -July 9th, 1787. - -I was at the Marialva Palace by nine, and set off from thence with the -Marquis for Cintra. Having the command of the Queen's stables, in which -are four thousand mules and two thousand horses, he orders as many -relays as he pleases, and we changed mules four times in the space of an -hour. - -A few minutes after ten we were landed at Ramalha, a villa, under the -pyramidical rocks of Cintra, Signor S. Arriaga was so kind as to lend me -a month or two ago, and which I have not had time to visit till to-day. -The suite of apartments are spacious and airy, and the views they -command of sea and arid country boundless; but unless the heat becomes -more violent, I shall be cooler than I wish in them, as they contain -not a chimney except in the kitchen. - -I found the garden in excellent order, and flourishing crops of -vegetables springing up between rows of orange and citron. Such is the -power of the climate, that the gardenias and Cape plants I brought with -me from England, mere stumps, are covered with beautiful blossoms. The -curled mallows, and some varieties of Indian-corn, sown by my English -gardener, have shot up to a strange elevation, and begin already to form -shady avenues and fairy forests, where children might play in perfection -at landscape-gardening. - -After I had passed half-an-hour in looking about me, the Marquis and I -got into our chair and drove to his own villa; a new creation, which has -cost him a great many thousand pounds sterling. Five years ago it was a -wild hill bestrewn with flints and rocky fragments. At present you find -a gay pavilion designed by Pillement, and elegantly decorated; a -parterre with statues and fountains, thick alleys of laurel, bay, and -laurustine, cascades, arbours, clipped box-trees, and every ornament the -Portuguese taste in gardening renders desirable. - -We dined at a clean snug inn, situated towards the middle of the village -of Cintra. The Queen has lately bestowed this house and a large tract of -ground adjoining it, upon the Marquis. From its windows and loggias you -look down deep ravines and bold slopes of woods and copses, variegated -with mossy stones and ancient decayed chesnuts. - -As soon as the sun grew low we went to Collares, and walked on a terrace -belonging to M. la Roche, a French merchant, who has shown some -glimmering of taste in the laying out of his villa. The groves of pine -and chesnut starting from the crevices of rock, and rising one above -another to a considerable elevation, give Collares the air of an Alpine -village. Innumerable rills, overhung by cork-trees and branching lemons, -burst out of ruined walls by the wayside, and dash into marble basins. A -favourite attendant of the late king's, who has a very large property in -these environs, invited us with much civility and obsequiousness into -his garden. I thought myself entering the orchards of Alcinous. The -boughs literally bent under loads of fruit; the slightest shake strewed -the ground with plums, oranges, and apricots. - -This villa boasts a grand artificial cascade, with tritons and dolphins -vomiting torrents of water; but I paid it not half the attention its -proprietor expected, and retiring under the shade of the fruit-trees, -feasted on the golden apples and purple plums that were rolling about me -in such profusion. The Marquis, who shares with most of the Portuguese a -remarkable predilection for flowers, filled his carriage with carnations -and jasmine. I never saw plants more conspicuous for size and vigour -than those which have the luck of being sown in this fortunate soil. The -exposition likewise is singularly happy; skreened by sloping hills, and -defended from the sea-airs by several miles of thickets and orchards. I -felt unwilling to quit a spot so favoured by nature, and M---- flatters -himself I shall be tempted to purchase it. - -The wind became troublesome as we ascended the hill, crowned by the -Marialva villa. The sky was clear and the sun set fiery. The distant -convent of Mafra, glowing with ruddy light, looked like the enchanted -palace of a giant, and the surrounding country bleak and barren as if -the monster had eaten it desolate. To repose ourselves a little after -our rapid excursion we entered the pavilion I told you just now -Pillement had designed. It represents a bower of fantastic Indian trees -mingling their branches, and discovering between them peeps of a summer -sky. From the mouth of a flying dragon depends a magnificent lustre for -fifty lights, hung with festoons of brilliant glass, that twinkle like -strings of diamonds. - -We loitered in this saloon till it was pitch-dark. The pages riding full -speed before us with flaming torches, and the wind driving back sparks -and smoke full in our faces, I was stunned and bewildered, and -experienced, perhaps, the sensations of a novice in sorcery, mounted for -the first time behind a witch on a broomstick. In less than an hour we -had rattled over twelve miles of rough, disjoined pavement, going up and -down the steepest hills in a convulsive gallop, so that I expected every -instant to be thrown flat on my nose; but, happily, the mules were -picked from perhaps a hundred, and never stumbled. I found the air on -the heights above the Ajueda very keen and piercing. - -It sounds strange to be complaining of cold at Lisbon on the ninth of -July. - - - - -LETTER XIX. - - Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir - of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty - terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.--The - Chapel.--Barbaric profusion of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian - knelt when he received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in - preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalha. - - -July 24th, 1787. - -There exists, I am convinced, a decided sympathy between toads and -witch-like old women. Mother Morgan[16] descended this morning, not into -the infernal regions, but into the cellar, and immediately five or six -spanking reptiles of this mysterious species waddled around her. She -rewarded the confidence the poor things placed in her rather scurvily, -and laid three of the fattest sprawling. I saw them lying breathless in -the court as I got on horseback; the largest measured seven inches in -diameter. Portuguese toads may be more distinguished for size, but are -not half so amiably speckled as those we have the happiness to harbour -in England. - -I was some time hesitating which way I should turn my horse's steps, -whether to the Pedra d'os Ovos, or on the other side of the rock to the -Peninha, a cell belonging to the Hieronimites, and dependent upon their -principal eyry, Nossa Senhora da Penha. Marialva, whom I met with all -his train of equerries and picadors coming forth from his villa, decided -me not to take a clambering ride, but to accompany him to the palace, -the interior of which I had not yet visited. - -The Alhambra itself is scarcely more morisco in point of architecture -than this confused pile, which seems to grow out of the summit of a -rocky eminence, and is broken into a variety of picturesque recesses and -projections. It is a thousand pities that they have whitened its -venerable walls, stopped up a range of bold arcades, and sliced out one -end of the great hall into two or three mean apartments like the -dressing-rooms of a theatre. From the windows, which are all in a -fantastic oriental style, crinkled and crankled, and supported by -twisted pillars of smooth marble, striking, romantic views of the cliffs -and village of Cintra are commanded. Several irregular courts and -loggias, formed by the angles of square towers, are enlivened by -fountains of marble and gilt bronze, continually pouring forth abundant -streams of the purest water. - -A sort of reservoir, almost long enough to be styled a canal, is -continued the whole length of the great hall, and serves as a paradise -for shoals of the largest and most brilliant gold and silver fish I ever -set eyes upon. The murmur of the jets-d'eau which rise from this canal, -the ripple of the water undulating against steps and slabs of polished -marble, the glancing and gleaming of the fish, and the striking contrast -of light and shade produced by the intricate labyrinth of arches and -columns, combine altogether to form a scene of enchantment such as we -sometimes dream of, but hardly suppose is ever realized. There is a -sobriety in the hues of the marble, a mysteriousness in the dark -recesses seen in perspective, and a solemnity in the deep colour, -approaching to blackness, of the water in that part of the reservoir -which is overshadowed by lofty buildings, I cannot help thinking -superior to all the flutter and glitter of the most famous Moorish -edifices at Granada or Seville. - -The flat summit of one of the loftiest terraces, not less than one -hundred and fifty feet from the ground, is laid out as a neat parterre, -which is spread like an embroidered carpet before the entrance of a huge -square tower, almost entirely occupied by a hall encrusted with -glistening tiles, and crowned by a most singularly-shaped dome. Amidst -the scrolls of arabesque foliage which adorn it, appear the arms of the -principal Portuguese nobility. The achievement of the unfortunate house -of Tavora is blotted out, and the panel it occupied left bare. - -We had climbed up to this terrace and tower by one of those steep, -cork-screw staircases, of which there are numbers in the palace, and -which connect with vaulted passages in a secret and suspicious manner. -The Marquis pointed out to me the mosaic pavement of a small chamber, -fretted and worn away in several places by the steps of Alphonso the -Sixth, who was confined to this narrow space a long series of years. - -Descending from it, we looked into the chapel, not less singular in form -and construction than the rest of the edifice. The low flat cupola, as -well as the intersections of the arches, are much in the style of a -mosque; but the barbaric profusion of gold, and still more barbaric -paintings with which every soffite and panel are covered, might almost -be supposed the work of Cingalese or Hindostanee artists, and reminded -me of those subterraneous pagodas where his Satanic Majesty receives -homage under the form of Gumputy or of Boodh. - -The original glare of all this strange scenery is greatly subdued by the -smoke of lamps, which have been burning for ages before the altar: a -mysterious pile of carved work and imagery, in perfect consonance, as to -gloom and uncouthness, with every other object in the place. It was -whilst kneeling before this very altar that the young, the ardent, the -chivalrous Don Sebastian is said to have received a supernatural warning -to renounce that fatal African expedition which cost him his crown and -his life, and what an heroic mind holds in far higher estimation, that -immortal fame which follows successful achievements. - -A something I can hardly describe, an oppressive gloom, seemed to hang -over this chapel, which remains very nearly, I should imagine, in the -same style it was left by the ill-fated Sebastian. The want of a free -circulation of air, and a heavy cloud of incense, affected the nerves of -my head so disagreeably that I was glad to move on, and follow the -Marquis into the rooms preparing for the Queen and the Infantas. These -are airy and well ventilated; but instead of hanging them with rich -arras, representing the adventures of knights and worthies, her -Majesty's upholsterers are hard at work covering the stout walls with -bright silks and satins of the palest and most delicate colours. I saw -no furniture worth notice, not a picture or a cabinet: our stay, -therefore, as we had nothing to see, was not protracted. - -As soon as the Marquis had given some orders, with which his royal -mistress had charged him, we returned to Ramalha, where Horne and -Guildermeester, the Dutch Consul, were waiting our arrival, and -squabbling about insurances, percentages, commissions, and other -commercial speculations. - -I have been persuading the Marquis to accompany me to-morrow to -Guildermeester's: it is the old man's birthday, and he opens his new -house with dancing and suppering. We shall have a pretty sample of the -factory misses, clerks, and apprentices, some underlings of the _corps -diplomatique_, and God knows how many thousand pound weight of Dutch and -Hambro merchants. - - - - -LETTER XX. - - Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday of - Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome lights of - Truth.--Invective against the English. - - -July 25th, 1787. - -Grand gala at Court, and the Marquis gone to attend it; for this blessed -day not only gave birth to Guildermeester, but to the Princess of -Brazil. We went to dine with the Marchioness. A band of regimental -music, on their march to Guildermeester, began playing in the court, and -drew forth one of those curious swarms of all sexes, ages, and colours, -which this beneficent family are so fond of harbouring. Donna -Henriquetta was seated on the steps, which lead up to the great -pavilion, whispering to some of her favourite attendants, who, like the -chorus in an ancient Greek tragedy, were continually giving their -opinion of whatever was going forward. - -Just as Don Pedro and I were preparing to set off together for the ball -at the old consul's, we were agreeably surprised by the arrival of the -Marquis, who had escaped from the palace much earlier than he expected. -I carried him in my chaise to Horne's, where we drank tea on his -terrace, which commands the most romantic view in Cintra; vast sweeps of -varied foliage, banks with twisted roots, and trunks of enormous -chesnuts, mingled with weeping-willows of the freshest verdure, and -citrons clustered with fruit. Above this sylvan scene tower three -shattered pinnacles of rock, the middle one diversified by the turrets -and walls of Nossa Senhora da Penha, a convent of Jeronimites, -frequently concealed in clouds. I leaned against a cork-tree, which -spreads its branches almost entirely over the veranda, enjoying the -view, and staring idly at the grotesque figures, Dutch, English, and -Portuguese, passing along to Guildermeester's; a series sufficiently -diversified to have amused me for some time, had not M---- grown -impatient and uneasy. His brother-in-law, S---- V----, to whom he has a -mortal aversion, having made his appearance, the powers of light and -darkness, if personified, could not exhibit a stronger contrast than -these two personages; M---- looking all benignity, and S---- V---- all -malevolence. Indeed, if one half of the atrocities[17] public report -attributes to this notorious nobleman be true, I should not wonder at -the blackness of revenge and tyranny being so deeply marked in every -line of his countenance. - -Moving off the first opportunity, we passed through dark and gloomy -lanes, admirably calculated for such exploits as I have just alluded to, -and were near being jerked into a ditch as we drove to the old consul's -door. The space before this new building is in sad disorder. The house -has little more than bare walls, and was not very splendidly lighted up. - -As for the company, they turned out just what I expected. Madame G----, -who is a woman of spirit and discernment, did the honours with the -greatest ease, and paid her principal guests the most marked attentions. -There is a something pointedly original in all her observations, which -pleased me very much. She is not, however, of the merciful tribe, and -joined forces with Verdeil (no foe to a little slashing conversation) in -cutting up the factory. M---- handed her in to supper. This part of the -entertainment was magnificent. There was a bright illumination, an -immense profusion of plate, a striking breadth of table, every delicacy -that could be procured, and a dessert-frame, fifty or sixty feet in -length, gleaming with burnished figures and vases of silver flowers. I -felt no inclination to dance after supper; the music was not inspiring, -and the company thrown into the utmost confusion by the mad freaks of a -Frenchman, upon whom one of the principal ladies present is supposed for -two or three years past to have placed her affections. A _coup de -soleil_ and a quarrel with his ambassador, Monsieur de Bombelles, it -seems had turned the poor fellow's brain: there was no preventing his -rushing from room to room with the sputter and eccentricity of a -fire-work, now abusing one person, now another, confessing publicly the -universal kindness he had received from the lady above hinted at, and -the many marks of tender affection a certain Miss W---- had bestowed on -him. "Why," said he to the two heroines, who I am told are not upon the -best terms imaginable, "should you squabble and scratch? You are both -equally indulgent, and have both rendered me in your turns the happiest -mortal in the universe." - -Whilst the light of truth was shining upon the bystanders in this very -singular manner, I leave you to imagine the awkward surprise of the -worthy old husband, and the angry blushes of his spouse and her fair -associate. I never beheld a more capital scene. In some of our -pantomimes, if I recollect rightly, harlequin applies a touchstone to -his adversaries, and by its magic influence draws truth from their -mouths in spite of propriety or interest. The lawyer confesses having -fingered a bribe, the soldier his flight in the day of battle, and the -whining methodistical dowager her frequent recourse to the bottle of -inspiration. This wondrous effect seems to have been here realized, and -some malicious demon to have possessed the talkative Frenchman, and to -have compelled him to disclose the mysteries to which he owes his -subsistence. Amongst the harsh truths poured out by this flow of -sincerity was a vehement apostrophe to the English canaille, as he -styled them, upon their rank intolerance of all customs except their -own, and their ten thousand starch uncharitable prejudices. Mrs.----, -become dauntless through despair, took up the cudgels in this cause most -vigorously, compared the chief part of the company to a swarm of -venomous insects, unworthy to crawl upon the hem of her really pure, -though calumniated garments, and fit to be shaken off with a vengeance -the first opportunity. - -The Marquis, Don Pedro, and I enjoyed the scene so much, that we stayed -later than we intended. - - - - -LETTER XXI. - - The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal of a - Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. - - -Ramalha, near Cintra, 26th August, 1787. - -The Queen of Portugal's chapel is still the first in Europe; in point of -vocal and instrumental excellence, no other establishment of the kind, -the papal not excepted, can boast such an assemblage of admirable -musicians. Wherever her Majesty moves they follow; when she goes a -hawking to Salvaterra, or a health-hunting to the baths of the Caldas. -Even in the midst of these wild rocks and mountains, she is surrounded -by a bevy of delicate warblers, as plump as quails, and as gurgling and -melodious as nightingales. The violins and violoncellos at her Majesty's -beck are all of the first order, and in oboe and flute-players her -musical menagerie is unrivalled. - -The Marquis of M----, as first Lord of the Bedchamber, Master of the -Horse, and, as it were, hereditary prime favourite, enjoys a decided -influence over this empire of sweet sounds; and having been so friendly -as to impart a share of these musical blessings to me, I have been -permitted to avail myself, whenever I please, of a selection from this -wonderful band of performers. This very morning, to my shame be it -recorded, I remained hour after hour in my newly-arranged pavilion, -without reading a word, writing a line, or entering into any -conversation. All my faculties were absorbed by the harmony of the wind -instruments, stationed at a distance in a thicket of orange and bay -trees. It was to no purpose that I tried several times to retire out of -the sound--I was as often drawn back as I attempted to snatch myself -away. Did I consult the health of my mind, I should dismiss these -musicians; their plaintive affecting tones are sure to awaken in my -bosom a long train of mournful recollections, and by the force of -associated ideas to plunge me into a state of languor and gloom. - - * * * * * - -My excellent friend, the Prior of Aviz, performed a real act of -friendship, by breaking in almost by force upon my seclusion, and -rousing me from my reveries. He insisted upon my accompanying him to the -Archbishop's, where the rehearsal of a council to be held in the Queen's -presence was going forward, and all the ministers with their assistant -under-secretaries assembled. Such congregations are new to the good old -Confessor, who has been just pressed into the supreme direction, I might -say control, of the Cabinet, much against his will. He knows too well -the value of ease and tranquillity not to regret so violent an inroad -upon his usual habits of life. We found him, therefore, as might be -expected, in a state of turmoil and irritation, flushed up to the very -forehead with a ruddy tint, which was highly contrasted by his flowing -white flannel garments. These garments he frequently shook and crumpled, -and more than once did he strike with vehemence against his portly -paunch, which, though he declared it had waited an hour longer than -customary for its wonted replenishment, sounded by no means so hollow as -an empty tub. The old saying, that "_fat paunches make lean pates_," -could not, however, be applied to him; he was so gracious and -confidential as to give me a summary of what had been represented to him -from the different departments of state, with great perspicuity and -acuteness. - -Notwithstanding the interest this singular communication ought to have -excited, I paid it not half the attention it deserved. The impression I -had received in the morning, from the music of Haydn and Jomelli, still -lingered about me. The Grand Prior, finding politics could not shake -them off, consulted with his nephew, who happened to be just by in the -Queen's apartment, and returned with a proposal, that as I had long -expressed a wish to see Mafra, we should put this scheme in execution -to-morrow. It was settled, therefore, that to-morrow we should set off. - - - - -LETTER XXII. - - Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast - fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The - High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.--The collateral - Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The Abbot of the Convent.--The - Library.--View from the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of - the Capitan Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the - Organs.--The Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive - crowd.--The Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de - Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan Mor's. - - -August 27th, 1787. - -We got into the carriage at nine, in spite of the wind, which blew full -in our faces. The distance from the villa I inhabit to this stupendous -convent is about fourteen English miles, and the road, which by -good-luck has been lately mended, conducted across a parched, open -country, thinly scattered with windmills and villages. The retrospect on -the woody slopes and pointed rocks of Cintra is pleasant enough; but -when you look forward, nothing can be more bleak or barren than the -prospect. Thanks to relays of mules, we advanced, full speed, and in -less than an hour and a quarter found ourselves under a strong wall -which winds boldly across the hills, and incloses the park of Mafra. - -We now caught a glimpse of the marble towers and dome of the convent, -relieved by an azure expanse of ocean, rising above the brow of heathy -eminences, diversified here and there by the bushy heads of Italian -pines and the tall spires of cypress. The roofs of the edifice were not -yet visible, and we continued some time winding about the undulating -acclivities in the park before they were discovered. A detachment of -lay-brothers were waiting to open the gates of the royal inclosure, -sadly blackened by a fire, which about a month ago consumed a great part -of its wood and verdure. Our approach spread a terrible alarm among the -herds of deer, which were peacefully browsing on a slope rather greener -than those in its neighbourhood. Off they scudded and took refuge in a -thicket of half-burnt pines. - -After coasting the wall of the great garden, we turned suddenly the -corner, and discovered one of the vast fronts of the convent, appearing -like a street of palaces. I cannot pretend that the style of the -building is such as a lover of pure Grecian architecture would approve; -the windows and doors are many of them fantastically shaped, but at -least well proportioned. - -I was admiring their ample range as we drove rapidly along, when, upon -wheeling round the lofty square pavilion which flanks the edifice, the -grand faade, extending above eight hundred feet, opened to my view. The -centre is formed by the porticos of the church richly adorned with -columns, niches, and bass-reliefs of marble. On each side two towers, -somewhat resembling those of St. Paul's in London, rise to the height of -near two hundred feet, and, joining on to the enormous _corps de logis_, -the palace terminates to the right and left by its stately pavilions. -These towers are light, airy, and clustered with pillars, remarkably -beautiful; but their form in general borders too much on a sort of -pagoda-ish style, and wants solemnity. They contain many bells of the -largest dimensions, and a famous chime which cost several hundred -thousand crusadoes, and which was set playing the moment our arrival was -notified. The platform and flight of steps before the columned entrance -of the church is strikingly grand; and the dome, which lifts itself up -so proudly above the pediment of the portico, merits praise for its -lightness and elegance. - -My eyes ranged along the vast extent of palace on each side till they -were tired, and I was glad to turn them from the glare of marble and -confusion of sculptured ornaments to the blue expanse of the distant -ocean. Before the front of this colossal structure a wide level of space -extends itself, at the extremity of which several white houses lie -dispersed. Though these buildings are by no means inconsiderable, they -appear, when contrasted with the immense pile in the neighbourhood, like -the booths of workmen, for such I took them upon my first survey, and -upon a nearer approach was quite surprised at their real dimensions. - -Few objects render the prospect from the platform of Mafra, interesting. -You look over the roofs of an indifferent village and the summits of -sandy acclivities, backed by a boundless stretch of sea. On the left, -your view is terminated by the craggy mountains of Cintra; to the right, -a forest of pines in the Viscount of Ponte de Lima's extensive garden, -affords the eye some small refreshment. - -To skreen ourselves from the sun, which darted powerfully on our heads, -we entered the church, passing through its magnificent portico, which -reminded me not a little of the entrance of St. Peter's; and is crowded -with the statues of saints and martyrs, carved with infinite delicacy. - -The first _coup-d'oeil_ of the church is very imposing. The high -altar, adorned with two majestic columns of reddish variegated marble, -each, a single block, above thirty feet in height, immediately fixes the -eye. Trevisani has painted the altar-piece in a masterly manner. It -represents St. Anthony in the ecstasy of beholding the infant Jesus -descending into his cell amidst an effulgence of glory. - -To-morrow being the festival of St. Augustine, whose followers are the -actual possessors of this monastery, all the golden candelabra were -displayed, and tapers lighted. After pausing a few minutes in the midst -of this bright illumination, we visited the collateral chapels, each -enriched with highly finished bassi-relievi and stately portals of black -and yellow marble, richly veined, and so highly polished as to reflect -objects like a mirror. Never did I behold such an assemblage of -beautiful marble as gleamed above, below, and around us. The pavement, -the vaulted ceiling, the dome, and even the topmost lantern, is -encrusted with the same costly and durable materials. Roses of white -marble and wreaths of palm-branches, most exquisitely sculptured, enrich -every part of the edifice. I never saw Corinthian capitals better -modelled, or executed with more precision and sharpness, than those of -the columns which support the nave. - -Having satisfied our curiosity by examining the various ornaments of the -altars, we followed our conductor through a long coved gallery into the -sacristy, a magnificent vaulted hall, panelled with some beautiful -varieties of alabaster and porphyry, and carpeted, as well as a chapel -adjoining it, in a style of the utmost magnificence. We traversed -several more halls and chapels, adorned with equal splendour, till we -were fatigued and bewildered like errant knights in the mazes of an -enchanted palace. - -I began to think there was no end to these spacious apartments. The monk -who preceded us, a good-natured, slobbering greybeard, taking for -granted that I could not understand a syllable of his language, -attempted to explain the objects which presented themselves by signs, -and would hardly believe his ears, when I asked him in good Portuguese -when we should have done with chapels and sacristies. The old fellow -seemed vastly delighted with the Meninos, as he called Don Pedro and me; -and to give our young legs an opportunity of stretching themselves, -trotted along with such expedition that the Marquis and Verdeil wished -him in purgatory. To be sure, we advanced at a most rapid rate, striding -from one end to the other of a dormitory, six hundred feet in length, in -a minute or two. These vast corridors, and the cells with which they -communicate, three hundred in number, are all arched in the most -sumptuous and solid manner. Every cell, or rather chamber, for they are -sufficiently spacious, lofty, and well lighted, to merit that -appellation, is furnished with tables and cabinets of Brazil-wood. - -Just as we entered the library, the Abbot of the convent, dressed in his -ceremonial habit, advanced to bid us welcome, and invite us to dine with -him to-morrow, St. Augustine's day, in the refectory; which it seems is -a mighty compliment. We thought proper, however, to decline the honour, -being aware that, to enjoy it, we must sacrifice at least two hours of -our time, and be half parboiled by the steam of huge roasted calves, -turkeys, and gruntlings, which had long been fattening, no doubt, for -this solemn occasion. - -The library is of a prodigious length, not less than three hundred feet; -the arched roof of a pleasing form, beautifully stuccoed, and the -pavement of red and white marble. Much cannot be said in praise of the -cases in which the books are to be arranged. They are clumsily designed, -coarsely executed, and darkened by a gallery which projects into the -room in a very awkward manner. The collection, which consists of above -sixty thousand volumes, is locked up at present in a suite of apartments -which opens into the library. Several well preserved and richly -illuminated first editions of the Greek and Roman classics were handed -to me by the father librarian; but my nimble conductor would not allow -me much time to examine them. He set off full speed, and, ascending a -winding staircase, led us out upon the roof of the convent and palace, -which form a broad, smooth terrace, bounded by a magnificent balustrade, -unincumbered by chimneys, and commanding a bird's-eye view of the courts -and garden. - -From this elevation the whole plan of the edifice may be comprehended at -a glance. In the centre rises the dome, like a beautiful temple from the -spacious walks of a royal garden. It is infinitely superior, in point of -design, to the rest of the edifice, and may certainly be reckoned among -the lightest and best proportioned in Europe. Don Pedro and Monsieur -Verdeil proposed scaling a ladder which leads up to the lantern, but I -begged to be excused accompanying them, and amused myself during their -absence with ranging about the extensive loggias, now and then venturing -a look down on the courts and parterres so far below; but oftener -enjoying the prospect of the towers shining bright in the sunbeams, and -the azure bloom of the distant sea. A fresh balsamic air wafted from the -orchards of citron and orange, fanned me as I rested on the steps of the -dome, and tempered the warmth of the glowing ther. - -But I was soon driven from this cloudless, peaceful situation, by a -confounded jingle of all the bells; then followed a most complicated -sonata, banged off on the chimes by a great proficient. The Marquis, who -had climbed up on purpose to enjoy this cataract of what some persons -call melodious sounds at its fountainhead, would have me approach to -examine the mechanism, and I was half stunned. I know very little indeed -about chimes and clocks, and am quite at a loss for amusement in a -belfry. My friend, who inherits a mechanical turn from his father, the -renowned patron of clocks and time-pieces, investigated every wheel with -minute attention. - -His survey finished, we descended innumerable stairs, and retired to the -Capitan Mor's, whose jurisdiction extends over the park and district of -Mafra. He has seven or eight thousand crusadoes a year, and his -habitation wears every appearance of comfort and opulence. The floors -are covered with mats of the finest texture, the doors hung with red -damask curtains, and our beds, quite new for the occasion, spread with -satin coverlids richly embroidered and fringed. We had a most luxurious -repast, and a better dessert than even the monks could have given -us--the Capitan Mor taking the dishes from his long train of servants, -and placing them himself on the table, quite in the feudal style. - -After coffee we hurried to vespers in the great church of the convent, -and advancing between the range of illuminated chapels, took our places -in the royal tribune. We were no sooner seated than the monks entered in -procession, preceding their abbot, who ascended his throne, having a row -of sacristans at his feet and canons on his right hand, in their cloth -of gold embroidered vestments. The service was chaunted with the most -imposing solemnity to the awful sound of organs, for there are no fewer -than six in the church, all of an enormous size. - -When it was ended, being once more laid hold of by the nimble -lay-brother, we were conducted up a magnificent staircase into the -palace. The suite extends seven or eight hundred feet, and the almost -endless succession of lofty doors seen in perspective, strikes with -astonishment; but we were soon weary of being merely astonished, and -agreed to pronounce the apartments the dullest and most comfortless we -had ever beheld; there is no variety in their shape, and little in their -dimensions. The furniture being all locked up at Lisbon, a naked -sameness universally prevails; not a niche, not a cornice, not a curved -moulding breaks the tedious uniformity of dead white walls. - -I was glad to return to the convent and refresh my eyes with the sight -of marble pillars, and my feet by treading on Persian carpets. We were -followed wherever we moved, into every cell, chapel, hall, passage, or -sacristy, by a strange medley of inquisitive monks, sacristans, -lay-brothers, corregidors, village-curates, and country beaux with long -rapiers and pigtails. If I happened to ask a question, half-a-dozen all -at once poked their necks out to answer it, like turkey-polts when -addressed in their native hobble-gobble dialect. The Marquis was quite -sick of being trotted after in this tumultuous manner, and tried several -times to leave the crowd behind him, by taking sudden turns; but -sticking close to our heels, it baffled all his endeavours, and -increased to such a degree, that we seemed to have swept the whole -convent and village of their inhabitants, and to draw them after us by -one of those supernatural attractions we read of in tales and romances. - -At length, perceiving a large door open into the garden, we bolted out, -and striking into a labyrinth of myrtles and laurels, got rid of our -pursuers. The garden, which is about a mile and a half in circumference, -contains, besides wild thickets of pine and bay-trees, several orchards -of lemon and orange, and two or three parterres more filled with weeds -than flowers. I was much disgusted at finding this beautiful inclosure -so wretchedly neglected, and its luxuriant plants withering away for -want of being properly watered. - -You may suppose, that after adding a walk in the principal alleys of the -garden to our other peregrinations, we began to find ourselves somewhat -fatigued, and were not sorry to repose ourselves in the Abbot's -apartment till we were summoned once more to our tribune to hear matins -performed. It was growing dark, and the innumerable tapers burning -before the altars and in every part of the church, began to diffuse a -mysterious light. The organs joined again in full accord, the long -series of monks and novices entered with slow and solemn steps, and the -Abbot resumed his throne with the same pomp as at vespers. The Marquis -began muttering his orisons, the Grand Prior to recite his breviary, and -I to fall into a profound reverie, which lasted as long as the service, -that is to say above two hours. Verdeil, ready to expire with ennui, -could not help leaving the tribune and the cloud of incense which filled -the choir, to breathe a freer air in the body of the church and its -adjoining chapels. - -It was almost nine when the monks, after chaunting a most solemn and -sonorous hymn in praise of their venerable father, Saint Augustine, -quitted the choir. We followed their procession through lofty chapels -and arched cloisters, which by a glimmering light appeared to have -neither roof nor termination, till it entered an octagon forty feet in -diameter, with fountains in the four principal angles. The monks, after -dispersing to wash their hands at the several fountains, again resumed -their order, and passed two-and-two under a portal thirty feet high into -a vast hall, communicating with their refectory by another portal of the -same lofty dimensions. Here the procession made a pause, for this -chamber is consecrated to the remembrance of the departed, and styled -the Hall de Profundis. Before every repast, the monks standing round it -in solemn ranks, silently revolve in their minds the precariousness of -our frail existence, and offer up prayers for the salvation of their -predecessors. I could not help being struck with awe when I beheld by -the glow of flaming lamps, so many venerable figures in their black and -white habits bending their eyes on the pavement, and absorbed in the -most interesting and gloomy of meditations. - -The moment allotted to this solemn supplication being passed, every one -took his place at the long tables in the refectory, which are made of -Brazil-wood, and covered with the whitest linen. Each monk had his -glass caraffe of water and wine, his plate of apples and salad set -before him; neither fish nor flesh were served up, the vigil of St. -Augustine's day being observed as a fast with the utmost strictness. - -To enjoy at a glance this singular and majestic spectacle, we retreated -to a vestibule preceding the octagon, and from thence looked through all -the portals down the long row of lamps into the refectory, which, owing -to its vast length of full two hundred feet, seemed ending in a point. -After remaining a few minutes to enjoy this perspective, four monks -advanced with torches to light us out of the convent, and bid us -good-night with many bows and genuflections. - -Our supper at the Capitan Mor's was very cheerful. We sat up late, -notwithstanding our fatigue, talking over the variety of objects that -had passed before our eyes in so short a space of time, the crowd of -grotesque figures which had stuck to our heels so long and so closely, -and the awkward vivacity of the lay-brother. - - - - -LETTER XXIII. - - High mass.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave Mafra.--An - accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful view from it. - - -August 28th, 1787. - -I was half asleep, half awake, when the sonorous bells of the convent -struck my ears. The Marquis and Don Pedro's voices in earnest -conversation with the Capitan Mor in the adjoining chamber, completely -roused me. We swallowed our coffee in haste; the Grand Prior reluctantly -left his pillow, and accompanied us to high mass. The monks once more -exerted their efforts to prevail on us to dine with them; but we -remained inflexible, and to avoid their importunities hastened away, as -soon as mass was ended, to the Viscount Ponte de Lima's gardens, where -the deep shade of the bay and ilex skreened us from the excessive heat -of the sun. - -The Marquis, seating himself by me near one of those clear and copious -fountains with which this magnificent Italian-looking garden is -refreshed and enlivened, entered into a most serious and semi-official -discourse about my stay in Portugal, and the means which were projecting -in a very high quarter to render it not only pleasant to myself, but of -some importance to many others. - - * * * * * - -I felt relieved when the appearance of Don Pedro and his uncle, who had -been walking to the end of an immensely long avenue of pines, warded off -a conversation that began to press hard upon me. We returned altogether -to the Capitan Mor's, and found dinner ready. - -Both Don Pedro and myself were sorry to leave Mafra, and should have had -no objection to another race along the cloisters and dormitories with -the lay-brother. The evening was bright and clear, and the azure tints -of the distant sea inexpressibly lovely. We drove with a tumultuous -rapidity over the rough-paved roads, that the Marquis and I could hardly -hear a word we said to each other. Don Pedro had mounted his horse. -Verdeil, who preceded us in the carinho, seemed to outstrip the winds. -His mule, one of the most fiery and gigantic of her species, excited by -repeated floggings and the shout of a hulking Portuguese postilion, -perched up behind the carriage, galloped at an ungovernable rate; and at -about a league from the rocks of Cintra, thought proper to jerk out its -drivers into the midst of some bushes at the foot of a lofty bank, -nearly perpendicular, where they still remained sprawling when we passed -by. - -Verdeil hobbled up to us, and pointed to the carinho in the ditch below. -Except a slight contusion in the knee, he had received no hurt. I -exclaimed immediately, that his escape was miraculous, and that, -doubtless, St. Anthony had some hand in it. My friend, who has always -the horrors of heresy before his eyes, whispered me that the devil had -saved him this time, but might not be so favourably disposed another. - -It was not half-past five, when we reached Cintra. The Marchioness, the -Abade, and the children, were waiting our arrival. - -Feeling my head in a whirl, and my ideas as much jolted and jumbled as -my body, I returned home just before it fell dark, to enjoy a few hours -of uninterrupted calm. The scenery of my ample saloon, its air of -seclusion, its silence, seemed to breathe a momentary tranquillity over -my spirits. The mat smoothly laid down, and formed of the finest and -most glossy straw, assumed by candlelight a delightful, soft, and -harmonious colour. It looked so cool and glistening that I stretched -myself upon it. There did I lie supine, contemplating the serene -summer-sky, and the moon rising slowly from behind the brow of a shrubby -hill. A faint breeze blowing aside the curtains, discovered the summit -of the woods in the garden, and beyond, a wide expanse of country, -terminated by plains of sea and hazy promontories. - - - - -LETTER XXIV. - - A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing - stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful - funeral.--Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde. - - -August 29th, 1787. - -It was furiously hot, and I trifled away the whole morning in my -pavilion, surrounded by fidalgos in flowered bed-gowns, and musicians in -violet-coloured accoutrements, with broad straw-hats, like bonzes or -talapoins, looking as sunburnt, vacant, and listless, as the inhabitants -of Ormus or Bengal; so that my company as well as my apartment wore the -most decided oriental appearance: the divan raised a few inches above -the floor, the gilt trellis-work of the windows, and the pellucid -streams of water rising from a tank immediately beneath them, supplied -in endless succession by springs from the native rock. - -An agreeable variety prevails in my Asiatic saloon; half its curtains -admit no light, and display the richest folds; the other half are -transparent, and cast a mild glow on the mat and sofas. Large clear -mirrors multiply this profusion of drapery, and several of my guests -seemed never tired of running from corner to corner, to view the -different groups of objects reflected on all sides in the most -unexpected directions, as if they fancied themselves admitted by -enchantment to peep into a labyrinth of magic chambers. - -One of the party, a very shrewd old Italian priest, who had left his -native land before the too-famous earthquake shook more than the half of -Lisbon to its foundations, told me he remembered an apartment a good -deal in this style, that is to say, bedecked with mirrors and curtains, -in a sort of fairy palace communicating with the Nunnery of Odivellas, -so famous for the pious retirement of that paragon of splendour and -holiness, King John the Fifth. These were delightful days for the -monarch and the fair companions of his devotions. - -"Oh!" said the old priest very judiciously, "of what avail is the finest -cage without birds to enliven it? Had you but heard the celestial -harmony of King John's recluses, you would never have sat down contented -in your fine tent with the squalling of sopranos and the grumbling of -bass-viols. The silver, virgin tones I allude to, proceeding from the -holy recess into which no other male mortal except the monarch was ever -allowed to penetrate, had an effect I still remember with ecstasy, -though at the distance of so many years. Four of our finest singers, two -from Venice and two from Naples, attracted by a truly regal munificence, -added all that the most consummate taste and science could give to the -best voices in Portugal; the result was perfection." - -Aguilar, who came to dine with us, and whose mother, when in the bloom -of youth and beauty, had been not unfrequently invited to act the part -of perhaps more than audience at these edifying parties, confirmed all -the wonders the old Italian narrated, and added not a few of the same -gold and ruby colour in a strain so extravagantly enthusiastic, that -were I to repeat even half the glittering anecdotes he favoured me with, -upon the subject of Don John the Fifth's unbounded fervour and -magnificence, your imagination would be completely dazzled. - -Just as we had removed from the dinner to the dessert-table, which was -spread out upon a terrace fronting the principal alley of the gardens, -entered the abade Xavier, in full cry, with a rapturous story of the -conversion of an old consumptive Englishwoman, who, it seems, finding -herself upon the eve of departure, had called for a priest, to whom she -might confess, and abjure her errors of every description. Happening to -lodge at the Cintra inn, kept by a most flaming Irish Catholic, her -commendable desires were speedily complied with, and Mascarenhas and -Acciaoli, and two or three other priests and monsignors, summoned to -further the good work. - -"Great," said the abade, "are our rejoicings upon the occasion. This -very evening the aged innocent is to be buried in triumph: Marialva, San -Lorenzo, Asseca, and several more of the principal nobility are already -assembled to grace the festival; suppose you were to come with me and -join the procession?" - -"With all my heart," did I reply; "although I have no great taste for -funerals, so gay a one as this you talk of may form an exception." - -Off we set, driving as fast as most excellent mules could carry us, lest -we should come too late for the entertainment. A great mob was assembled -before the door. At one of the windows stood the grand prior, looking as -if he wished himself a thousand leagues away, and reciting his breviary. -I went up-stairs, and was immediately surrounded by the old Conde de San -Lorenzo and other believers, overflowing with congratulations. -Mascarenhas, one of the soundest limbs of the patriarchal establishment, -a capital devotee and seraphic doctor, was introduced to me. Acciaoli, -whom I was before acquainted with, skipped about the room, rubbing his -hands for joy, with a cunning leer on his jovial countenance, and -snapping his fingers at Satan, as much as to say, "I don't care a d---- -n for you. We have got one at least safe out of your clutches, and clear -at this very moment of the smoke of your cauldron." - -There was such a bustle in the interior apartment where the wretched -corpse was deposited, such a chaunting and praying, for not a tongue -was idle, that my head swam round, and I took refuge by the grand prior. -He by no means relished the party, and kept shrugging up his shoulders, -and saying that it was very edifying--very edifying indeed, and that -Acciaoli had been extremely alert, extremely active, and deserved great -commendation, but that so much fuss might as well have been spared. - -By some hints that dropped, I won't say from whom, I discovered the -innocent now on the high road to eternal felicity by no means to have -suffered the cup of joy to pass by untasted in this existence, and to -have lived many years on a very easy footing, not only with a stout -English bachelor, but with several others, married and unmarried, of his -particular acquaintance. However, she had taken a sudden tack upon -finding herself driven apace down the tide of a rapid consumption, and -had been fairly towed into port by the joint efforts of the Irish -hostess and the monsignori Mascarenhas and Acciaoli. - -"Thrice happy Englishwoman," exclaimed M--a, "what luck is thine! In -the next world immediate admission to paradise, and in this thy body -will have the proud distinction of being borne to the grave by men of -the highest rank.--Was there ever such felicity?" - -The arrival of a band of priests and sacristans, with tapers lighted and -cross erected, called us to the scene of action. The procession being -marshalled, the corpse, dressed in virgin-white, lying snug in a sort of -rose-coloured bandbox with six silvered handles, was brought forth. -M----, who abhors the sight of a dead body, reddened up to his ears, and -would have given a good sum to make an honourable retreat; but no -retreat could now have been made consistent with piety: he was obliged -to conquer his disgust and take a handle of the bier. Another was placed -in the murderous gripe of the notorious San Vicente; another fell to the -poor old snuffling Conde de San Lorenzo; a fourth to the Viscount -d'Asseca, a mighty simple-looking young gentleman; the fifth and sixth -were allotted to the Capita Mor of Cintra, and to the judge, a gaunt -fellow with a hang-dog countenance. - -No sooner did the grand prior catch sight of the ghastly visage of the -dead body as it was being conveyed down-stairs in the manner I have -recited, than he made an attempt to move on, and precede instead of -following the procession; but Acciaoli, who acted as master of the -ceremonies, would not let him off so easily: he allotted him the post of -honour immediately at the head of the corpse, and placed himself at his -left hand, giving the right to Mascarenhas. All the bells of Cintra -struck up a cheerful peal, and to their merry jinglings we hurried along -through a dense cloud of dust, a rabble of children frolicking on either -side, and their grandmothers hobbling after, telling their beads, and -grinning from ear to ear at this triumph over the prince of darkness. - -Happily the way to the church was not long, or the dust would have -choked us. The grand prior kept his mouth close not to admit a particle -of it, but Acciaoli and his colleague were too full of their fortunate -exploit not to chatter incessantly. Poor old San Lorenzo, who is fat, -squat, and pursy, gasping for breath, stopped several times to rest on -his journey. Marialva, whom disgust rendered heartily fatigued with his -burthen, was very glad likewise to make a pause or two. - -We found all the altars in the church blazing with lights, the grave -gaping for its immaculate inhabitant, and a numerous detachment of -priests and choristers waiting to receive the procession. The moment it -entered, the same hymn which is sung at the interment of babes and -sucklings burst forth from a hundred youthful voices, incense arose in -clouds, and joy and gladness shone in the eyes of the whole -congregation. - -A murmur of applause and congratulation went round anew, those whom it -most concerned receiving with great affability and meekness the -compliments of the occasion. Old San Lorenzo, waddling up to the grand -prior, hugged him in his arms, and strewing him all over with snuff, set -him violently a-sneezing. San Vicente, as soon as the innocent was -safely deposited, retired in a sort of dudgeon, being never rightly at -ease in the presence of his brother-in-law Marialva. As for the latter -warm-hearted nobleman, exultation and triumph carried him beyond all -bounds of decorum. He scoffed bitterly at heretics, represented in their -true colours the actual happiness of the convert, and just as we left -the church, cried out loud enough for all those who were near to have -heard him, "_Elle se f----iche de nous tous prsent._" - -Their pious toil being ended, Mascarenhas and Acciaoli accompanied us to -the heights of Penha Verde, to breathe a fresh air under the odoriferous -pines: then, returning in our company to Ramalha, partook of a nice -collation of iced fruit and sweetmeats, and concluded the evening with -much gratifying discourse about the lively scene we had just witnessed. - - - - -LETTER XXV. - - Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs. - Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads passive.--The old Consul - and his tray of jewels. - - -The principal personages who had so piously distinguished themselves -yesterday dined with me this blessed afternoon. Old San Lorenzo has a -prodigious memory and a warm imagination, rendered still more glowing by -a slight touch of madness. He appears perfectly well acquainted with the -general politics of Europe, and though never beyond the limits of -Portugal, gave so circumstantial and plausible a detail of what -occurred, and of the part he himself acted at the congress of -Aix-la-Chapelle, that I was completely his dupe, and believed, until I -was let into the secret, that he had actually witnessed what he only -dreamt of. Notwithstanding the high favour he enjoyed with the infante -Don Pedro, Pombal cast him into a dungeon with the other victims of the -Aveiro conspiracy, and for eighteen most melancholy years was his active -mind reduced to prey upon itself for sustenance. - -Upon the present queen's accession he was released, and found his -intimate friend the Infante sharing the throne; but thinking himself -somewhat coolly received and shabbily neglected, he threw the key of -chamberlain which was sent him into a place of less dignity than -convenience, and retired to the convent of the Necessidades. No means, I -have been assured, were left untried by the king to soothe and flatter -him; but they all proved fruitless. Since this period, though he quitted -the convent, he has never appeared at court, and has refused all -employment. Devotion now absorbs his entire soul. Except when the chord -of imprisonment and Pombal is touched upon, he is calm and reasonable. I -found him extremely so to-day, and full of the most instructive and -amusing anecdote. - -Coffee over, my company having stretched themselves out at full-length -most comfortably, some on the mat, and some on the sofas, to recruit -their spirits I suppose, after the pious toils and enthusiastic -procession of the day before, I prevailed upon Marialva to escort me to -Mrs. Guildermeester's, whom we found in a vast but dingy saloon, her -toads squatting around her. She gave us some excellent tea, and a plain -sensible loaf of brown bread, accompanied by delicious butter, just -fresh from a genuine Dutch dairy, conducted upon the most immaculate -Dutch principles. Donna Genuefa, the toad-passive in waiting, is a -little jossish old woman, with a head as round as a humming-top, and a -large placid lip, very smiling and good-natured. Miss Coster, the -toad-active, has been rather pretty a few years ago, makes tea with -decorum, shuts doors and opens windows with judgment, and has a good -deal to say for herself when allowed to sit still on her chair. - -We had scarcely begun complimenting the mistress of the house upon the -complete success of her cow-establishment, when the old consul her -spouse entered, with many bows and salutations, bearing a huge japan -tray, upon which was spread out in glittering profusion an ample -treasure, both of rough and well-lapidated brilliants, the fruits of his -famous and most lucrative contract in the days of Pombal. Some of the -largest diamonds, in superb though heavy Dutch or German settings, he -eagerly desired Marialva would recommend to the attention of the queen, -and whispered in my ear that he hoped I also would speak a good word for -him. I remained as deaf as an adder, and the Marquis as blind as a -beetle, to the splendour of the display; so he returned once more to his -interior cabinet, with all his hopes out of blossom, and we moved off. - -Evening was drawing on, and a drizzling mist overspreading the crags of -Cintra. It did not, however, prevent us from going to Mr. Horne's. We -passed under arching elms and chesnuts, whose moistened foliage exhaled -a fresh woody odour. High above the vapours, which were rolling away -just as we emerged from the shady avenue, appeared the turret of the -convent of the Penha, faintly tinted by the last rays of the sun, and -looking down, like the ark on Mount Ararat, on a sea of undulating -clouds. - -At Horne's, Aguilar, Bezerra, and the usual set were assembled. The -Marquis, as soon as he had made his condescending bows to the right and -left, retired to his villa, and I took Horne in my chaise to Mrs. -Staits, a little slender-waisted, wild-eyed woman, by no means -unpleasing or flinty-hearted. It was her birthday, and she had -congregated most of the English at Cintra, in a damp garden about -seventy feet long by thirty-two, illuminated by thirty or forty -lanterns. Mrs. Guildermeester was there, covered with diamonds, and -sparkling like a star in the midst of this murky atmosphere. We had a -cold funereal supper, under a low tent in imitation of a grotto. - -Mrs. Staits' well-disposed, easy-tempered husband placed me next Mrs. -Guildermeester, who amused herself tolerably well at the expense of the -entertainment. The dingy, subterraneous appearance of the booth, the wan -light of the lanterns sparingly scattered along it, and the fragrance of -a dish of rather mature prawns placed under my nose, seized me with the -idea of being dead and buried. "Alas!" said I to my fair neighbour, "it -is all over with us now, and this our first banquet in the infernal -regions; we are all equal and jumbled together. There sits the pious -presbyterian Mrs. Fussock, with that bridling miss her daughter, and -close to them those adulterous doves, Mr. ---- and his sultana. Here am -I, miserable sinner, right opposite your righteous and much enduring -spouse; a little lower our kind host, that pattern of conjugal meekness -and resignation. Hark! don't you hear a lumbering noise? They are -letting down a cargo of heavy bodies into a neighbouring tomb." - -In this strain did we continue till the subject was exhausted, and it -was time to take our departure. - - - - -LETTER XXVI. - - Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke - d'Alafoins.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of the - Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. - - -Sept. 10th, 1787. - -Adieu to the tranquillity of Cintra, we shall soon have nothing but -hubbub and confusion. The queen is on the point of arriving with all her -maids of honour, secretaries of state, dwarfs, negresses and horses, -white, black, and pie-bald. Half the quintas around will be dried up, -military possession having been taken of the aqueducts, and their waters -diverted into new channels for the use of an encampment. - -I was walking in a long arched bower of citron-trees, when M---- -appeared at the end of the avenue, accompanied by the duke d'Alafoins. -This is the identical personage well-known in every part of Europe by -the appellation of Duke of Braganza. He has no right however, to wear -that illustrious title, which is merged in the crown. Were he called -Duchess Dowager, of anything you please, I think nobody would dispute -the propriety of his style, he being so like an old lady of the -bed-chamber, so fiddle-faddle and so coquettish. He had put on rouge and -patches, and though he has seen seventy winters, contrived to turn on -his heel and glide about with juvenile agility. - -I was much surprised at the ease of his motions, having been told that -he was a martyr to the gout. After lisping French with a most refined -accent, complaining of the sun, and the roads, and the state of -architecture, he departed, (thank heaven!) to mark out a spot for the -encampment of the cavalry, which are to guard the queen's sacred person -during her residence in these mountains. M---- was in duty bound to -accompany him; but left his son and his nephews, the heirs of the House -of Tancos, to dine with me. - -In the evening, Verdeil, tired with sauntering about the verandas, -proposed a ride to a neighbouring village, where there was a fair. He -and Don Pedro mounted their horses, and preceded the young Tancos and me -in a garden-chair, drawn by a most resolute mule. The roads are -abominable, and lay partly along the sloping base of the Cintra -mountains, which in the spring, no doubt, are clothed with a tolerable -verdure, but at this season every blade of grass is parched and -withered. Our carriage-wheels, as we drove sideling along these slippery -declivities, pressed forth the odour of innumerable aromatic herbs, half -pulverized. Thicknesse perhaps would have said, in his original quaint -style, that nature was treating us with a pinch of her best cephalic. No -snuff, indeed, ever threw me into a more violent fit of sneezing. - -I could hardly keep up my head when we arrived at the fair, which is -held on a pleasant lawn, bounded on one side by the picturesque -buildings of a convent of Hieronimites, and on the other by rocky hills, -shattered into a variety of uncouth romantic forms; one cliff in -particular, called the Pedra d'os Ovos, terminated by a cross, crowns -the assemblage, and exhibits a very grotesque appearance. Behind the -convent a thick shrubbery of olives, ilex, and citron, fills up a small -valley refreshed by fountains, whose clear waters are conducted through -several cloisters and gardens, surrounded by low marble columns, -supporting fretted arches in the morisco style. - -The peasants assembled at the fair were scattered over the lawn; some -conversing with the monks, others half intoxicated, sliding off their -donkeys and sprawling upon the ground; others bargaining for silk-nets -and spangled rings, to bestow on their mistresses. The monks, who were -busily employed in administering all sorts of consolations, spiritual -and temporal, according to their respective ages and vocations, happily -paid us no kind of attention, so we escaped being stuffed with -sweetmeats, and worried with compliments. - -At sunset we returned to Ramalha, and drank tea in its lantern-like -saloon, in which are no less than eleven glazed doors and windows of -large dimensions. The winds were still; the air balsamic; and the sky of -so soft an azure that we could not remain with patience under any other -canopy, but stept once more into our curricles and drove as far as the -Dutch consul's new building, by the mingled light of innumerable stars. - -It was after ten when we got back to the Marialva villa, and long before -we reached it, we heard the plaintive tones of voices and wind -instruments issuing from the thickets. On the margin of the principal -basin sat the marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, and a numerous group of -their female attendants, many of them most graceful figures, and -listening with all their hearts and souls to the rehearsal of some very -delightful music with which her majesty is to be serenaded a few -evenings hence. - -It was one of those serene and genial nights when music acquires a -double charm, and opens the heart to tender, though melancholy -impressions. Not a leaf rustled, not a breath of wind disturbed the -clear flame of the lights which had been placed near the fountains, and -which just served to make them visible. The waters, flowing in rills -round the roots of the lemon-trees, formed a rippling murmur; and in the -pauses of the concert, no other sound except some very faint whisperings -was to be distinguished, so that the enchantment of climate, music, and -mystery, all contributed to throw my mind into a sort of trance from -which I was not roused again without a degree of painful reluctance. - - - - -LETTER XXVII. - - Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular - invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and - shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. - - -September 12th, 1787. - -I was hardly up before the grand prior and Mr. Street were announced: -the latter abusing kings, queens, and princes, with all his might, and -roaring after liberty and independence; the former complaining of fogs -and damps. - -As soon as the advocate for republicanism had taken his departure, we -went by appointment to the archbishop confessor's, and were immediately -admitted into his _sanctum sanctorum_, a snug apartment communicating by -a winding staircase with that of the queen, and hung with bright, lively -tapestry. A lay-brother, fat, round, buffoonical, and to the full as -coarse and vulgar as any carter or muleteer in christendom, entertained -us with some very amusing, though not the most decent, palace stories, -till his patron came forth. - -Those who expect to see the Grand Inquisitor of Portugal, a doleful, -meagre figure, with eyes of reproof and malediction, would be -disappointed. A pleasanter or more honest countenance than that kind -heaven has blessed him with, one has seldom the comfort of looking upon. -He received me in the most open, cordial manner, and I have reason to -think I am in mighty favour. - -We talked about archbishops in England being married. "Pray," said the -prelate, "are not your archbishops strange fellows? consecrated in -ale-houses, and good bottle companions? I have been told that mad-cap -Lord Tyrawley was an archbishop at home." You may imagine how much I -laughed at this inconceivable nonsense; and though I cannot say, -speaking of his right reverence, that "truths divine came mended from -his tongue," it may be allowed, that nonsense itself became more -conspicuously nonsensical, flowing from so revered a source. - -Whilst we sat in the windows of the saloon, listening to a band of -regimental music, we saw Joa Antonio de Castro, the ingenious -mechanician, who invented the present method of lighting Lisbon, two or -three solemn dominicans, and a famous court fool[18] in a tawdry -gala-suit, bedizened with mock orders, coming up the steps which lead to -the great audience-chamber, all together. "Ay, ay," said the -lay-brother, who is a shrewd, comical fellow, "behold a true picture of -our customers. Three sorts of persons find their way most readily into -this palace; men of superior abilities, buffoons, and saints; the first -soon lose what cleverness they possessed, the saints become martyrs, and -the buffoons alone prosper." - -To all this the Archbishop gave his hearty assent by a very significant -nod of the head; and being, as I have already told you, in a most -gracious, communicative disposition, would not permit me to go away, -when I rose up to take leave of him. - -"No, no," said he, "don't think of quitting me yet awhile. Let us repair -to the hall of Swans, where all the court are waiting for me, and pray -tell me then what you think of our great fidalgos." - -Taking me by the tip of the fingers he led me along through a number of -shady rooms and dark passages to a private door, which opened from the -queen's presence-chamber, into a vast saloon, crowded, I really believe, -by half the dignitaries of the kingdom; here were bishops, heads of -orders, secretaries of state, generals, lords of the bedchamber, and -courtiers of all denominations, as fine and as conspicuous as -embroidered uniforms, stars, crosses, and gold keys could make them. - -The astonishment of this group at our sudden apparition was truly -laughable, and indeed, no wonder; we must have appeared on the point of -beginning a minuet--the portly archbishop in his monastic, flowing white -drapery, spreading himself out like a turkey in full pride, and myself -bowing and advancing in a sort of _pas-grave_, blinking all the while -like an owl in sunshine, thanks to my rapid transition from darkness to -the most glaring daylight. - -Down went half the party upon their knees, some with petitions and some -with memorials; those begging for places and promotions, and these for -benedictions, of which my revered conductor was by no means prodigal. He -seemed to treat all these eager demonstrations of fawning servility with -the most contemptuous composure, and pushing through the crowd which -divided respectfully to give us passage, beckoned the Viscount Ponte de -Lima, the Marquis of Lavradio, the Count d'Obidos, and two or three of -the lords in waiting, into a mean little room, not above twenty by -fourteen. - -After a deal of adulatory complimentation in a most subdued tone from -the circle of courtiers, for which they had got nothing in return but -rebuffs and gruntling, the Archbishop drew his chair close to mine, and -said with a very distinct and audible pronunciation, "My dear -Englishman, these are all a parcel of flattering scoundrels, do not -believe one word they say to you. Though they glitter like gold, mud is -not meaner--I know them well. Here," continued he, holding up the flap -of my coat, "is a proof of English prudence, this little button to -secure the pocket is a precious contrivance, especially in grand -company, do not leave it off, do not adopt any of our fashions, or you -will repent it." - -This sally of wit was received with the most resigned complacency by -those who had inspired it, and, staring with all my eyes, and listening -with all my ears, I could hardly credit either upon seeing the most -complaisant gesticulations, and hearing the most abject protestations of -devoted attachment to his right reverence's sacred person from all the -company. - -There is no saying how long this tide of adulation would have continued -pouring on, if it had not been interrupted by a message from the queen, -commanding the confessor's immediate attendance. Giving his garments a -hearty shake, he trudged off bawling out to me over his shoulder, "I -shall be back in half-an-hour, and you must dine with me."--"Dine with -him!" exclaimed the company in chorus: "such an honour never befel any -one of us; how fortunate! how distinguished you are!" - -Now, I must confess, I was by no means enchanted with this most peculiar -invitation; I had a much pleasanter engagement at Penha-Verde, one of -the coolest and most romantic spots in all this poetic district, and -felt no vocation to be cooped up in a close bandboxical apartment, -smelling of paint and varnish enough to give the head-ache; however, -there was no getting off. I was told that I must obey, for everybody in -these regions, high or low, the royal family themselves not excepted, -obeyed the archbishop, and that I ought to esteem myself too happy in so -agreeable an opportunity. - -It would be only repeating what is known to every one, who knows any -thing of courts and courtiers, were I to add the flowery speeches, the -warm encomiums, I received from the finest feathered birds of this covey -upon my own transcendant perfections, and those of my host that was to -be. The half-hour, which, by-the-by, was more than three-quarters, -scarcely sufficed for half those very people had to say in my -commendation, who, a few days ago, were all reserve and indifference, if -I happened to approach them. My summons to this envied repast was -conveyed to me by no less a personage than the Marquis of M----, who, -with gladsome surprise in all his gestures, whispered me, "I am to be of -the party too, the first time in my life I can assure you; not a -creature besides is to be admitted; for my uncle is gone home tired of -waiting for you." - -We knocked at the private door, which was immediately opened, and -following the same passages through which I had been before conducted, -emerged into an ante-chamber looking into a very neat little kitchen, -where the lay-brother, with his sleeves tucked up to his shoulders, was -making hospitable preparation. A table with three covers was prepared in -the tapestry-room, and upon a sofa, in the corner of it, sat the -omnipotent prelate wrapped up in an old snuff-coloured great coat, sadly -patched and tattered. - -"Come," said he, clapping his hands after the oriental fashion, "serve -up and let us be merry--oh, these women, these women, above stairs, what -a plague it is to settle their differences! Who knows better than you, -Marquis, what enigmas they are to unriddle? I dare say the Englishman's -archbishops have not half such puzzles to get over as I have: well, let -us see what we have got for you." - -Entered the lay-brother with three roasting-pigs, on a huge tray of -massive silver, and an enormous pillau, as admirable in quality as in -size; and so it had need to have been, for in these two dishes consisted -our whole dinner. I am told the fare at the Archbishop's table never -varies, and roasting-pigs succeed roasting-pigs, and pillaus pillaus, -throughout all the vicissitudes of the seasons, except on certain -peculiar fast-days of supreme meagre. - -The simplicity of this part of our entertainment was made up by the -profusion and splendour of our dessert, which exceeded in variety of -fruits and sweetmeats any one of which I had ever partaken. As to the -wines, they were admirable, the tribute of every part of the Portuguese -dominions offered up at this holy shrine. The Port Company, who are just -soliciting the renewal of their charter, had contributed the choicest -produce of their happiest vintages, and as I happened to commend its -peculiar excellence, my hospitable entertainer, whose good-humour seemed -to acquire every instant a livelier glow, insisted upon my accepting -several pipes of it, which were punctually sent me the next morning. The -Archbishop became quite jovial, and supposing I was not more insensible -to the joys of convivial potations than many of my countrymen, plied me -as often and as waggishly as if I had been one of his imaginary -archbishops, or Lord Tyrawley himself, returned from those cold -precincts where no dinners are given or bottle circulated. - -The lay-brother was such a fountain of anecdote, the Archbishop in such -glee, and Marialva in such jubilation at being admitted to this -confidential party, that it is impossible to say how long it would have -lasted, had not the hour of her Majesty's evening excursion approached, -and the Archbishop been called to accompany her. As Master of the Horse, -the Marquis could not dispense with his attendance, so I was left under -the guidance of the lay-brother, who, leading me through another -labyrinth of passages, opened a kind of wicket door, and let me out with -as little ceremony as he would have turned a goose adrift on a common. - - - - -LETTER XXVIII. - - Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da - Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of - Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients - exemplified. - - -Sept. 19th, 1787. - -Never did I behold so fine a day, or a sky of such lovely azure. The -M---- were with me by half-past six, and we rode over wild hills, which -command a great extent of apparently desert country; for the villages, -if there are any, are concealed in ravines and hollows. - -Intending to explore the Cintra mountains from one extremity to the -other of the range, we placed relays at different stations. Our first -object was the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha, the little romantic -pile of white buildings I had seen glittering from afar when I first -sailed by the coast of Lisbon. From this pyramidical elevation the view -is boundless: you look immediately down upon an immense expanse of sea, -the vast, unlimited Atlantic. A long series of detached clouds of a -dazzling whiteness, suspended low over the waves, had a magic effect, -and in pagan times might have appeared, without any great stretch of -fancy, the cars of marine divinities just risen from the bosom of their -element. - -There was nothing very interesting in the objects immediately around us. -The Moorish remains in the neighbourhood of the convent are scarcely -worth notice, and indeed seem never to have made part of any -considerable edifice. They were probably built up with the dilapidations -of a Roman temple, whose constructors had perhaps in their turn availed -themselves of the fragments of a Punic or Tyrian fane raised on this -high place, and blackened with the smoke of some horrible sacrifice. - -Amidst the crevices of the mouldering walls, and particularly in the -vault of a cistern, which seems to have served both as a reservoir and a -bath, I noticed some capillaries and polypodiums of infinite delicacy; -and on a little flat space before the convent a numerous tribe of -pinks, gentians, and other alpine plants, fanned and invigorated by the -pure mountain air. These refreshing breezes, impregnated with the -perfume of innumerable aromatic herbs and flowers, seemed to infuse new -life into my veins, and, with it, an almost irresistible impulse to fall -down and worship in this vast temple of Nature the source and cause of -existence. - -As we had a very extensive ride in contemplation, I could not remain -half so long as I wished on this arial and secluded summit. Descending -by a tolerably easy road, which wound amongst the rocks in many an -irregular curve, we followed for several miles a narrow tract over the -brow of savage and desolate eminences, to the Cork convent, which -answered exactly, at the first glance we caught of it, the picture one -represents to one's self of the settlement of Robinson Crusoe. Before -the entrance, formed of two ledges of ponderous rock, extends a smooth -level of greensward, browsed by cattle, whose tinkling bells filled me -with recollections of early days passed amongst wild and alpine scenery. -The Hermitage, its cells, chapel, and refectory, are all scooped out of -the native marble, and lined with the bark of the cork-tree. Several of -the passages about it are not only roofed, but floored with the same -material, extremely soft and pleasant to the feet. The shrubberies and -garden plats, dispersed amongst the mossy rocks which lie about in the -wildest confusion, are delightful, and I took great pleasure in -exploring their nooks and corners, following the course of a -transparent, gurgling rill, which is conducted through a rustic -water-shoot, between bushes of lavender and rosemary of the tenderest -green. - -The Prior of this romantic retirement is appointed by the Marialvas, and -this very day his installation takes place, so we were pressed to dine -with him upon the occasion, and could not refuse; but as it was still -very early, we galloped on, intending to visit a famous cliff, the Pedra -d'Alvidrar, which composes one of the most striking features of that -renowned promontory the Rock of Lisbon. - -Our road led us through the skirts of the woods which surround the -delightful village of Collares, to another range of barren eminences -extending along the sea-shore. I advanced to the very margin of the -cliff, which is of great height, and nearly perpendicular. A rabble of -boys followed at the heels of our horses, and five stout lads, detached -from this posse, descended with the most perfect unconcern the dreadful -precipice. One in particular walked down with his arms expanded, like a -being of a superior order. The coast is truly picturesque, and consists -of bold projections, intermixed with pyramidical rocks succeeding each -other in theatrical perspective, the most distant crowned by a lofty -tower, which serves as a lighthouse. - -No words can convey an adequate idea of the bloom of the atmosphere, and -the silvery light reflected from the sea. From the edge of the abyss, -where I had remained several minutes like one spell-bound, we descended -a winding path, about half a mile, to the beach. Here we found ourselves -nearly shut in by shattered cliffs and grottos, a fantastic -amphitheatre, the best calculated that can possibly be imagined to -invite the sports of sea nymphs. Such coves, such deep and broken -recesses, such a play of outline I never beheld, nor did I ever hear so -powerful a roar of rushing waters upon any other coast. No wonder the -warm and susceptible imagination of the ancients, inflamed by the -scenery of the place, led them to believe they distinguished the conchs -of tritons sounding in these retired caverns; nay, some grave -Lusitanians positively declared they had not only heard, but seen them, -and despatched a messenger to the Emperor Tiberius to announce the -event, and congratulate him upon so evident and auspicious a -manifestation of divinity. - -The tide was beginning to ebb, and allowed us, not without some risk -however, to pass into a cavern of surprising loftiness, the sides of -which were incrusted with beautiful limpets, and a variety of small -shells grouped together. Against some rude and porous fragments, not far -from the aperture through which we had crept, the waves swell with -violence, rush into the air, form instantaneous canopies of foam, then -fall down in a thousand trickling rills of silver. The flickering gleams -of light thrown upon irregular arches admitting into darker and more -retired grottos, the mysterious, watery gloom, the echoing murmurs and -almost musical sounds, occasioned by the conflict of winds and waters, -the strong odour of an atmosphere composed of saline particles, produced -altogether such a bewildering effect upon the senses, that I can easily -conceive a mind, poetically given, might be thrown into that kind of -tone which inclines to the belief of supernatural appearances. I am not -surprised, therefore, at the credulity of the ancients, and only wonder -my own imagination did not deceive me in a similar manner. - -If solitude could have induced the Nereids to have vouchsafed me an -apparition, it was not wanting, for all my company had separated upon -different pursuits, and had left me entirely to myself. During the full -half-hour I remained shut out from the breathing world, one solitary -corvo marino was the only living creature I caught sight of, perched -upon an insulated rock, about fifty paces from the opening of the -cavern. - -I was so stunned with the complicated sounds and murmurs which filled my -ears, that it was some moments before I could distinguish the voices of -Verdeil and Don Pedro, who were just returned from a hunt after -seaweeds and madrapores, calling me loudly to mount on horseback, and -make the best of our way to rejoin the Marquis and his attendants, all -gone to mass at the Cork convent. Happily, the little detached clouds we -had seen from the high point of Nossa Senhora da Penha, instead of -melting into the blue sky, had been gathering together, and skreened us -from the sun. We had therefore a delightful ride, and upon alighting -from our palfreys found the old abade just arrived with Luis de Miranda, -the colonel of the Cascais regiment, surrounded by a whole synod of -monks, as picturesque as bald pates and venerable beards could make -them. - -As soon as the Marquis came forth from his devotions, dinner was served -up exactly in the style one might have expected at Mequinez or -Morocco--pillaus of different kinds, delicious quails, and pyramids of -rice tinged with saffron. Our dessert, in point of fruits and -sweetmeats, was most luxurious, nor would Pomona herself have been -ashamed of carrying in her lap such peaches and nectarines as rolled in -profusion about the table. - -The abade seemed animated after dinner by the spirit of contradiction, -and would not allow the Marquis or Luis de Miranda to know more about -the court of John the Fifth, than of that of Pharaoh, king of Egypt. - -To avoid being stunned by the clamours of the dispute, in which two or -three monks with stentorian voices began to take part most vehemently, -Don Pedro, Verdeil, and I climbed up amongst the hanging shrubberies of -arbutus, bay, and myrtle, to a little platform carpeted with delicate -herbage, exhaling a fresh, aromatic perfume upon the slightest pressure. -There we sat, lulled by the murmur of distant waves, breaking over the -craggy shore we had visited in the morning. The clouds came slowly -sailing over the hills. My companions pounded the cones of the pines, -and gave me the kernels, which have an agreeable almond taste. - -The evening was far advanced before we abandoned our peaceful, -sequestered situation, and joined the Marquis, who had not been yet able -to appease the abade. The vociferous old man made so many appeals to the -father-guardian of the convent in defence of his opinions, that I -thought we never should have got away. At length we departed, and after -wandering about in clouds and darkness for two hours, reached Cintra -exactly at ten. The Marchioness and the children had been much alarmed -at our long absence, and rated the abade severely for having occasioned -it. - - - - -LETTER XXIX. - - Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the - edifices in Gaspar Poussin's landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, - said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests - displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of Visiters.--A celebrated - Prior's erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the - Apocalypse.--OEcolampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fte at the - Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf - Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired - by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of - Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumiares.--Affecting resemblance. - - -September 22nd, 1787. - -When I got up, the mists were stealing off the hills, and the distant -sea discovering itself in all its azure bloom. Though I had been led to -expect many visiters of importance from Lisbon, the morning was so -inviting that I could not resist riding out after breakfast, even at the -risk of not being present at their arrival. - -I took the road to Collares, and found the air delightfully soft and -fragrant. Some rain which had lately fallen, had refreshed the whole -face of the country, and tinged the steeps beyond Penha Verde with -purple and green; for the numerous tribe of heaths had started into -blossom, and the little irregular lawns, overhung by crooked cork-trees, -which occur so frequently by the way-side, are now covered with large -white lilies streaked with pink. - -Penha Verde itself is a lovely spot. The villa, with its low, flat -roofs, and a loggia projecting at one end, exactly resembles the -edifices in Gaspar Poussin's landscapes. Before one of the fronts is a -square parterre with a fountain in the middle, and niches in the walls -with antique busts. Above these walls a variety of trees and shrubs rise -to a great elevation, and compose a mass of the richest foliage. The -pines, which, by their bright-green colour, have given the epithet of -verdant to this rocky point (Penha Verde), are as picturesque as those I -used to admire so warmly in the Negroni garden at Rome, and full as -ancient, perhaps more so: tradition assures us they were planted by the -far-famed Don John de Castro, whose heart reposes in a small marble -chapel beneath their shade. - -How often must that heroic heart, whilst it still beat in one of the -best and most magnanimous of human bosoms, have yearned after this calm -retirement! Here, at least, did it promise itself that rest so cruelly -denied him by the blind perversities of his ungrateful countrymen: for -his had been an arduous contest, a long and agonizing struggle, not only -in the field under a burning sun, and in the face of peril and death, -but in sustaining the glory and good fame of Portugal against court -intrigues, and the vile cabals of envious, domestic enemies. - -These scenes, though still enchanting, have most probably undergone -great changes since his days. The deep forests we read of have -disappeared, and with them many a spring they fostered. Architectural -fountains, gaudy terraces, and regular stripes of orange-gardens, have -usurped the place of those wild orchards and gushing rivulets he may be -supposed to have often visited in his dreams, when removed some thousand -leagues from his native country. All these are changed; but mankind are -the same as in his time, equally insensible to the warning voice of -genuine patriotism, equally disposed to crouch under the rod of corrupt -tyranny. And thus, by the neglect of wise and virtuous men, and a mean -subserviency to knavish fools, eras which might become of gold, are -transmuted by an accursed alchymy into iron rusted with blood. - -Impressed with all the recollections this most interesting spot could -not fail to inspire, I could hardly tear myself away from it. Again and -again did I follow the mossy steps, which wind up amongst shady rocks to -the little platform, terminated by the sepulchral chapel-- - - "----densis quam pinus opacat - Frondibus et nulla lucos agitante procella - Stridula coniferis modulatur carmina ramis." - -You must not wonder then, that I was haunted the whole way home by these -mysterious whisperings, nor that, in such a tone of mind, I saw with no -great pleasure a procession of two-wheeled chaises, the lord knows how -many out-riders, and a caravan of bouras, marching up to the gate of my -villa. I had, indeed, been prepared to expect a very considerable influx -of visiters; but this was a deluge. - -Do not let me send you a catalogue of the company, lest you should be as -much annoyed with the detail, as I was with such a formidable arrival -_en masse_. Let it suffice to name two of the principal characters, the -old pious Conde de San Lorenzo, and the prior of San Julia, one of the -archbishop's prime favourites, and a person of great worship. Mortier's -Dutch bible happening to lie upon the table, they began tumbling over -the leaves in an egregiously awkward manner. I, who abhor seeing books -thumbed, and prints demonstrated by the close application of a greasy -fore-finger, snapped at the old Conde, and cast an evil look at the -prior, who was leaning his whole priestly weight on the volume, and -creasing its corners. - -My musicians were in full song, and Pedro Grua, a capital violoncello, -exerted his abilities in his best style; but San Lorenzo was too -pathetically engaged in deploring the massacre of the Innocents to pay -him any attention, and his reverend companion had entered into a -long-winded dissertation upon parables, miracles, and martyrdom, from -which I prayed in vain the Lord to deliver me. Verdeil, scenting from -afar the saintly flavour of the discourse, stole off. - -I cannot say much in praise of the prior's erudition, even in holy -matters, for he positively affirmed that it was Henry the Eighth -himself, who knocked St. Thomas Becket's brains out, and that by the -beast in the Apocalypse, Luther was positively indicated. I hate -wrangles, and had it not been for the soiling of my prints, should never -have contradicted his reverence; but as I was a little out of humour, I -lowered him somewhat in the Conde's opinion, by stating the real period -of St. Thomas's murder, and by tolerably specious arguments, shoving the -beast's horns off Luther, and clapping them tight upon--whom do you -think?--OEcolampadius! So grand a name, which very probably they had -never heard pronounced in their lives, carried all before it, (adding -another instance of the triumph of sound over sense,) and settled our -bickerings. - -We sat down, I believe, full thirty to dinner, and had hardly got -through the dessert, when Berti came in to tell me that Madame Ariaga, -and a bevy of the palace damsels, were prancing about the quinta on -palfreys and bouras. I hastened to join them. There was Donna Maria do -Carmo, and Donna Maria da Penha, with her hair flowing about her -shoulders, and her large beautiful eyes looking as wild and roving as -those of an antelope. I called for my horse, and galloped through alleys -and citron bushes, brushing off leaves, fruit, and blossoms. Every -breeze wafted to us the sound of French horns and oboes. The ladies -seemed to enjoy the freedom and novelty of this scamper prodigiously, -and to regret the short time it was doomed to last; for at seven they -are obliged to return to strict attendance on the Queen, and had some -strange fairy-tale metamorphosis into a pumpkin or a cucumber been the -penalty of disobedience, they could not have shown more alarm or anxiety -when the fatal hour of seven drew near. Luckily, they had not far to go, -for her Majesty and the Royal Family were all assembled at the Marialva -villa, to partake of a splendid merenda and see fireworks. - -As soon as it fell dark Verdeil and I set forth to catch a glimpse of -the royal party. The Grand Prior and Don Pedro conducted us mysteriously -into a snug boudoir which looks into the great pavilion, whose gay, -fantastic scenery appeared to infinite advantage by the light of -innumerable tapers reflected on all sides from lustres of glittering -crystal. The little Infanta Donna Carlotta was perched on a sofa in -conversation with the Marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, who, in the -true oriental fashion, had placed themselves cross-legged on the floor. -A troop of maids of honour, commanded by the Countess of Lumieres, sat -in the same posture at a little distance. Donna Rosa, the favourite -dwarf negress, dressed out in a flaming scarlet riding-habit, not so -frolicsome as the last time I had the pleasure of seeing her in this -fairy bower, was more sentimental, and leaned against the door, ogling -and flirting with a handsome Moor belonging to the Marquis. - -Presently the Queen, followed by her sister and daughter-in-law, the -Princess of Brazil, came forth from her merenda, and seated herself in -front of the latticed-window, behind which I was placed. Her manner -struck me as being peculiarly dignified and conciliating. She looks born -to command; but at the same time to make that high authority as much -beloved as respected. Justice and clemency, the motto so glaringly -misapplied on the banner of the abhorred Inquisition, might be -transferred with the strictest truth to this good princess. During the -fatal contest betwixt England and its colonies, the wise neutrality she -persevered in maintaining was of the most vital benefit to her -dominions, and hitherto, the native commerce of Portugal has attained -under her mild auspices an unprecedented degree of prosperity. - -Nothing could exceed the profound respect, the courtly decorum her -presence appeared to inspire. The Conde de Sampayo and the Viscount -Ponte de Lima knelt by the august personages with not much less -veneration, I should be tempted to imagine, than Moslems before the tomb -of their prophet, or Tartars in the presence of the Dalai Lama. Marialva -alone, who took his station opposite her Majesty, seemed to preserve his -ease and cheerfulness. The Prince of Brazil and Don Joa looked not a -little ennuied; for they kept stalking about with their hands in their -pockets, their mouths in a perpetual yawn, and their eyes wandering -from object to object, with a stare of royal vacancy. - -A most rigorous etiquette confining the Infants of Portugal within their -palaces, they are seldom known to mix even incognito with the crowd; so -that their flattering smiles or confidential yawns are not lavished upon -common observers. This sort of embalming princes alive, after all, is no -bad policy; it keeps them sacred; it concentrates their royal essence, -too apt, alas! to evaporate by exposure. What is so liberally paid for -by the willing tribute of the people as a rarity of exquisite relish, -should not be suffered to turn mundungus. However the individual may -dislike this severe regimen, state pageants might have the goodness to -recollect for what purpose they are bedecked and beworshipped. - -The Conde de Sampayo, lord in waiting, handed the tea to the Queen, and -fell down on both knees to present it. This ceremony over, for every -thing is ceremony at this stately court, the fireworks were announced, -and the royal sufferers, followed by their sufferees, adjourned to a -neighbouring apartment. The Marchioness, her daughters, and the -Countess of Lumieres, mounted up to the boudoir where I was sitting, -and took possession of the windows. Seven or eight wheels, and as many -tourbillons began whirling and whizzing, whilst a profusion of admirable -line-rockets darted along in various directions, to the infinite delight -of the Countess of Lumieres, who, though hardly sixteen, has been -married four years. Her youthful cheerfulness, light hair, and fair -complexion, put me so much in mind of my Margaret, that I could not help -looking at her with a melancholy tenderness: her being with child -increased the resemblance, and as she sat in the recess of the window, -discovered at intervals by the blue light of rockets bursting high in -the air, I felt my blood thrill as if I beheld a phantom, and my eyes -were filled with tears. - -The last firework being played off, the Queen and the Infantas departed. -The Marchioness and the other ladies descended into the pavilion, where -we partook of a magnificent and truly royal collation. Donna Maria and -her little sister, animated by the dazzling illumination, tripped about -in their light muslin dresses, with all the sportiveness of fairy -beings, such as might be supposed to have dropped down from the floating -clouds, which Pillement has so well represented on the ceiling. - - - - -LETTER XXX. - - Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.--The Holy - Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese - poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular - tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the - Infanta's accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio's singing, - and anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_. - - -November 8th, 1787. - -Verdeil and I rattled over cracked pavements this morning in my rough -travelling-coach, for the sake of exercise. The pretext for our -excursion was to see a remarkable chapel, inlaid with jasper and -lapis-lazuli, in the church of St. Roch; but when we arrived, three or -four masses were celebrating, and not a creature sufficiently disengaged -to draw the curtain which veils the altar, so we went out as wise as we -came in. - -Not having yet seen the cathedral, or See-church, as it is called at -Lisbon, we directed our course to that quarter. It is a building of no -striking dimensions, narrow and gloomy, without being awful. The -earthquake crumbled its glories to dust, if ever it had any, and so -dreadfully shattered the chapels, with which it is clustered, that very -slight traces of their having made part of a mosque are discernible. - -Though I had not been led to expect great things, even from descriptions -in travels and topographical works, which, like peerage-books and -pedigrees, are tenderly inclined to make something of what is next to -nothing at all: I hunted away, as became a diligent traveller, after -altar-pieces and tombs, but can boast of no discoveries. To be sure, we -had not much time to look about us: the priests and sacristans, who -fastened upon us, insisted upon our revisiting the corner of a bye -staircase, where are to be kissed and worshipped the traces of St. -Anthony's fingers. The saint, it seems, being closely pursued by the -father of lies and parent of evil, alias Old Scratch, (I really could -not clearly learn upon what occasion,) indented the sign of the cross -into a wall of the hardest marble, and stopped his proceedings. A very -pleasing little picture hangs up near the miraculous cross, and records -the tradition. - -All this was admirable; but nothing in comparison with some stories -about certain holy crows. "The very birds are in being," said a -sacristan. "What!" answered I, "the individual[19] crows who attended -St. Vincent?"--"Not exactly," was the reply, (in a whisper, intended for -my private ear); "but their immediate descendants."--"Mighty well; this -very evening, please God, I will pay my respects to them, and in good -company, so adieu for the present." - -Our next point was the Theatine convent. We looked into the library, -which lies in the same confusion in which it was left by the earthquake; -half the books out of their shelves, tumbled one over the other in dusty -heaps. A shrewd, active monk, who, I am told, has written a history of -the House of Braganza, not yet printed, guided our steps through this -chaos of literature; and after searching half-an-hour for some curious -voyages he wished to display to us, led us into his cell, and pressed -our attention to a cabinet of medals he had been at some pains and -expense in collecting. - -Not feeling any particular vocation for numismatic researches, I left -Verdeil with the monk, puzzling out some very questionable inscriptions, -and went to beat up for recruits to accompany me in the evening to the -holy crows. First, I found the Abade Xavier, and secondly, the famous -missionary preacher from Boa Morte, and then the Grand Prior, and -lastly, the Marquis of Marialva; Don Pedro begged not to be left out, so -we formed a coach full, and I drove my whole cargo home to dinner. -Verdeil was already returned with his reverend medallist, and had also -collected the governor of Goa, Don Frederic de Sousa Cagliariz, his -constant attendant a bullying Savoyard, or Piedmontese Count, by name -Lucatelli; and a pale, limber, odd-looking young man, Senhor Manuel -Maria, the queerest, but, perhaps, the most original of God's poetical -creatures. He happened to be in one of those eccentric, lively moods, -which, like sunshine in the depth of winter, come on when least -expected. A thousand quaint conceits, a thousand flashes of wild -merriment, a thousand satirical darts shot from him, and we were all -convulsed with laughter; but when he began reciting some of his -compositions, in which great depth of thought is blended with the most -pathetic touches, I felt myself thrilled and agitated. Indeed, this -strange and versatile character may be said to possess the true wand of -enchantment, which, at the will of its master, either animates or -petrifies. - -Perceiving how much I was attracted towards him, he said to me, "I did -not expect an Englishman would have condescended to pay a young, -obscure, modern versifier, any attention. You think we have no bard but -Camoens, and that Camoens has written nothing worth notice, but the -Lusiad. Here is a sonnet worth half the Lusiad. - - CXCII. - - 'A fermosura desta fresca serra, - E a sombra dos verdes castanheiros, - O manso caminhar destes ribeiros, - Donde toda a tristeza se desterra; - O rouco som do mar, a estranha terra, - O esconder do Sol pellos outeiros, - O recolher dos gados derradeiros, - Das nuvens pello ar a branda guerra: - Em fim tudo o que a rara natureza - Com tanta variedade nos ofrece, - Me est (se no te vejo) magoando: - Sem ti tudo me enoja, e me aborrece, - Sem ti perpetuamente estou passando - Nas mres alegrias, mr tristeza!' - -Not an image of rural beauty has escaped our divine poet; and how -feelingly are they applied from the landscape to the heart! What a -fascinating languor, like the last beams of an evening sun, is thrown -over the whole composition! If I am any thing, this sonnet has made me -what I am; but what am I, compared to Monteiro? Judge," continued he, -putting into my hand some manuscript verses of this author, to whom the -Portuguese are vehemently partial. Though they were striking and -sonorous, I must confess the sonnet of Camoens, and many of Senhor -Manuel Maria's own verses, pleased me infinitely more; but in fact, I -was not sufficiently initiated into the force and idiom of the -Portuguese language to be a competent judge; and it was only in fancying -me one, that this powerful genius discovered any want of penetration. - -Our dinner was lively and convivial. At the dessert the Abad produced -an immense tray of dried fruits and sweetmeats, which one of his hundred -and fifty _protgs_ had sent him from, I forget what exotic region. -These good things he kept handing to us, and almost cramming down our -throats, as if we had been turkeys and he a poulterer, whose livelihood -depended upon our fattening. "There," said he, "did you ever behold such -admirable productions? Our Queen has thousands and thousands of miles -with fruit-groves over your head, and rocks of gold and diamonds beneath -your feet. The riches and fertility of her possessions have no bounds, -but the sea, and the sea itself might belong to us if we pleased; for we -have such means of ship-building, masts two hundred feet high, -incorruptible timbers, courageous seamen. Don Frederic can tell you what -some of our heroes achieved not long ago against the gentiles at Goa. -Your Joa Bulles are not half so smart, half so valorous." - -Thus he went on, bouncing and roaring us deaf. For patriotic -rodomontades and flourishes, no nation excels the Portuguese, and no -Portuguese the Abad! - -At length, however, all this tasting and praising having been gone -through with, we set forth on the wings of holiness, to pay our devoirs -to the holy crows. A certain sum having been allotted time immemorial -for the maintenance of two birds of this species, we found them very -comfortably established in a recess of a cloister adjoining the -cathedral, well fed and certainly most devoutly venerated. - -The origin of this singular custom dates as high as the days of St. -Vincent, who was martyrized near the Cape, which bears his name, and -whose mangled body was conveyed to Lisbon in a boat, attended by crows. -These disinterested birds, after seeing it decently interred, pursued -his murderers with dreadful screams and tore their eyes out. The boat -and the crows are painted or sculptured in every corner of the -cathedral, and upon several tablets appear emblazoned an endless record -of their penetration in the discovery of criminals. - -It was growing late when we arrived, and their feathered sanctities were -gone quietly to roost; but the sacristans in waiting, the moment they -saw us approach, officiously roused them. O, how plump and sleek, and -glossy they are! My admiration of their size, their plumage, and their -deep-toned croakings carried me, I fear, beyond the bounds of saintly -decorum. I was just stretching out my hand to stroke their feathers, -when the missionary checked me with a solemn forbidding look. The rest -of the company, aware of the proper ceremonial, kept a respectful -distance, whilst the sacristan and a toothless priest, almost bent -double with age, communicated a long string of miraculous anecdotes -concerning the present holy crows, their immediate predecessors, and -other holy crows in the old time before them. - -To all these super-marvellous narrations, the missionary appeared to -listen with implicit faith, and never opened his lips during the time we -remained in the cloister, except to enforce our veneration, and exclaim -with pious composure, "_honrado corvo_." I really believe we should have -stayed till midnight, had not a page arrived from her Majesty to summon -the Marquis of M---- and his almoner away. - -My curiosity being fully satisfied upon the subject of the holy crows, I -was easily persuaded by the Grand Prior to move off, and drive through -the principal streets to see the illuminations in honour of the Infanta, -consort to Don Gabriel of Spain, who had produced a prince. A great -many idlers being abroad upon the same errand, we proceeded with -difficulty, and were very near having the wheels of our carriage -dislocated in attempting to pass an old-fashioned, preposterous coach, -belonging to one of the dignitaries of the patriarchal cathedral. I -cannot launch forth in praise of the illuminations; but some rockets -which were let off in the Terreiro do Paco, surprised me by the vast -height to which they rose, and the unusual number of clear blue stars -into which they burst. The Portuguese excel in fireworks; the late poor, -drivelling, saintly king having expended large sums in bringing this art -to perfection. - -From the Terreiro do Paco we drove to the great square, in which the -palace of the Inquisition is situated. There we found a vast mob, to -whom three or four Capuchin preachers were holding forth upon the -glories and illuminations of a better world. I should have listened not -uninterested to their harangues, which appeared, from the specimen I -caught of them, to be full of fire and frenzy, had not the Grand Prior, -in perpetual awe of the rheumatism, complained of the night, so we -drove home. Every apartment of the house was filled with the thick -vapour of wax-torches, which had been set most loyally a blazing. I -fumed and fretted and threw open the windows. Away went the Grand Prior, -and in came Policarpio, the famous tenor singer, who entertained us with -several bravura airs of glib and surprising volubility, before supper -and during it, in a style equally professional, with many private -anecdotes of the _haute noblesse_, his principal employers, not -infinitely to their advantage. - -I longed, in return, to have enlarged a little upon the adventures of -the holy crows, but prudently repressed my inclination. It would -ill-become a person so well treated as I had been by the crow-fanciers, -to handle such subjects with any degree of levity. - - - - -LETTER XXXI. - - Rambles in the Valley of Collares.--Elysian scenery. Song of a - young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the - Prince of Brazil[20] in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with - His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalha. - - -Oct. 19th, 1787. - -My health improves every day. The clear exhilarating weather we now -enjoy calls forth the liveliest sense of existence. I ride, walk, and -climb, as long as I please, without fatiguing myself. The valley of -Collares affords me a source of perpetual amusement. I have discovered a -variety of paths which lead through chesnut copses and orchards to -irregular green spots, where self-sown bays and citron-bushes hang wild -over the rocky margin of a little river, and drop their fruit and -blossoms into the stream. You may ride for miles along the bank of this -delightful water, catching endless perspectives of flowery thickets, -between the stems of poplar and walnut. The scenery is truly elysian, -and exactly such as poets assign for the resort of happy spirits. - -The mossy fragments of rock, grotesque pollards, and rustic bridges you -meet with at every step, recall Savoy and Switzerland to the -imagination; but the exotic cast of the vegetation, the vivid green of -the citron, the golden fruitage of the orange, the blossoming myrtle, -and the rich fragrance of a turf, embroidered with the -brightest-coloured and most aromatic flowers, allow me without a violent -stretch of fancy to believe myself in the garden of the Hesperides, and -to expect the dragon under every tree. I by no means like the thoughts -of abandoning these smiling regions, and have been twenty times on the -point this very day of revoking the orders I have given for my journey. -Whatever objections I may have had to Portugal seem to vanish, since I -have determined to leave it; for such is the perversity of human nature, -that objects appear the most estimable precisely at the moment when we -are going to lose them. - -There was this morning a mild radiance in the sunbeams, and a balsamic -serenity in the air, which infused that voluptuous listlessness, that -desire of remaining imparadised in one delightful spot, which, in -classical fictions, was supposed to render those who had tasted the -lotos forgetful of country, of friends, and of every tie. My feelings -were not dissimilar, I loathed the idea of moving away. - -Though I had entered these beautiful orchards soon after sunrise, the -clocks of some distant conventual churches had chimed hour after hour -before I could prevail upon myself to quit the spreading odoriferous -bay-trees under which I had been lying. If shades so cool and fragrant -invited to repose, I must observe that never were paths better -calculated to tempt the laziest of beings to a walk, than those which -opened on all sides, and are formed of a smooth dry sand, bound firmly -together, composing a surface as hard as gravel. - -These level paths wind about amongst a labyrinth of light and elegant -fruit-trees; almond, plum, and cherry, something like the groves of -Tonga-taboo, as represented in Cook's voyages; and to increase the -resemblance, neat cane fences and low open sheds, thatched with reeds, -appear at intervals, breaking the horizontal lines of the perspective. - -I had now lingered and loitered away pretty nearly the whole morning, -and though, as far as scenery could authorize and climate inspire, I -might fancy myself an inhabitant of elysium, I could not pretend to be -sufficiently ethereal to exist without nourishment. In plain English, I -was extremely hungry. The pears, quinces, and oranges which dangled -above my head, although fair to the eye, were neither so juicy nor -gratifying to the palate, as might have been expected from their -promising appearance. - -Being considerably - - More than a mile immersed within the wood,[21] - -and not recollecting by which clue of a path I could get out of it, I -remained at least half-an-hour deliberating which way to turn myself. -The sheds and enclosures I have mentioned were put together with care -and even nicety, it is true, but seemed to have no other inhabitants -than flocks of bantams, strutting about and destroying the eggs and -hopes of many an insect family. These glistening fowls, like their -brethren described in Anson's voyages, as animating the profound -solitudes of the island of Tinian, appeared to have no master. - -At length, just as I was beginning to wish myself very heartily in a -less romantic region, I heard the loud, though not unmusical, tones of a -powerful female voice, echoing through the arched green avenues; -presently, a stout ruddy young peasant, very picturesquely attired in -brown and scarlet, came hoydening along, driving a mule before her, -laden with two enormous panniers of grapes. To ask for a share of this -luxuriant load, and to compliment the fair driver, was instantaneous on -my part, but to no purpose. I was answered by a sly wink, "We all belong -to Senhor Jos Dias, whose corral, or farm-yard, is half a league -distant. There, Senhor, if you follow that road, and don't puzzle -yourself by straying to the right or left, you will soon reach it, and -the bailiff, I dare say, will be proud to give you as many grapes as you -please. Good morning, happy days to you! I must mind my business." - -Seating herself between the tantalizing panniers, she was gone in an -instant, and I had the good luck to arrive straight at the wicket of a -rude, dry wall, winding up and down several bushy slopes in a wild -irregular manner. If the outside of this enclosure was rough and -unpromising, the interior presented a most cheering scene of rural -opulence. Droves of cows and goats milking; ovens, out of which huge -cakes of savoury bread had just been taken; ranges of beehives, and long -pillared sheds, entirely tapestried with purple and yellow muscadine -grapes, half candied, which were hung up to dry. A very good-natured, -classical-look-magister pecorum, followed by two well-disciplined, -though savage-eyed dogs, whom the least glance of their master prevented -from barking, gave me a hearty welcome, and with genuine hospitality not -only allowed me the free range of his domain, but set whatever it -produced in the greatest perfection before me. A contest took place -between two or three curly-haired, chubby-faced children, who should be -first to bring me walnuts fresh from the shell, bowls of milk, and -cream-cheeses, made after the best of fashions, that of the province of -Alemtejo. - -I found myself so abstracted from the world in this retirement, so -perfectly transported back some centuries into primitive patriarchal -times, that I don't recollect having ever enjoyed a few hours of more -delightful calm. "Here," did I say to myself, "am I out of the way of -courts and ceremonies, and commonplace visitations, or salutations, or -gossip." But, alas! how vain is all one thinks or says to one's self -nineteen times out of twenty. - -Whilst I was blessing my stars for this truce to the irksome bustle of -the life I had led ever since her Majesty's arrival at Cintra, a loud -hallooing, the cracking of whips, and the tramping of horses, made me -start up from the snug corner in which I had established myself, and -dispelled all my soothing visions. Luis de Miranda, the colonel of the -Cascais regiment, an intimate confidant and favourite of the Prince of -Brazil, broke in upon me with a thousand (as he thought) obliging -reproaches, for having deserted Ramalha the very morning he had come on -purpose to dine with me, and to propose a ride after dinner to a -particular point of the Cintra mountains, which commands, he assured me, -such a prospect as I had not yet been blessed with in Portugal. "It is -not even now," said he, "too late. I have brought your horses along -with me, whom I found fretting and stamping under a great tree at the -entrance of these foolish lanes. Come, get into your stirrups for God's -sake, and I will answer for your thinking yourself well repaid by the -scene I shall disclose to you." - -As I was doomed to be disturbed and talked out of the elysium in which I -had been lapped for these last seven or eight hours, it was no matter in -what position, whether on foot or on horseback; I therefore complied, -and away we galloped. The horses were remarkably sure-footed, or else, I -think, we must have rolled down the precipices; for our road, - - "If road it could be call'd where road was none," - -led us by zigzags and short cuts over steeps and acclivities about three -or four leagues, till reaching a heathy desert, where a solitary cross -staring out of a few weather-beaten bushes, marked the highest point of -this wild eminence, one of the most expansive prospects of sea, and -plain, and distant mountains, I ever beheld, burst suddenly upon me, -rendered still more vast, arial, and indefinite, by the visionary, -magic vapour of the evening sun. - -After enjoying a moment or two the general effect, I began tracing out -the principal objects in the view, as far, that is to say, as they could -be traced, through the medium of the intense glowing haze. I followed -the course of the Tagus, from its entrance till it was lost in the low -estuaries beyond Lisbon. Cascais appeared with its long reaches of wall -and bomb-proof casemates like a Moorish town, and by the help of a glass -I distinguished a tall palm lifting itself above a cluster of white -buildings. - -"Well," said I, to my conductor, "this prospect has certainly charms -worth seeing; but not sufficient to make me forget that it is high time -to get home and refresh ourselves." "Not so fast," was the answer, "we -have still a great deal more to see." - -Having acquired, I can hardly tell why or wherefore, a sheep-like habit -of following wherever he led, I spurred after him down a rough -declivity, thick strewn with rolling stones and pebbles. At the bottom -of this descent, a dreary sun-burnt plain extended itself far and wide. -Whilst we dismounted and halted a few minutes to give our horses breath, -I could not help observing, that the view we were now contemplating but -ill-rewarded the risk of breaking our necks in riding down such rapid -declivities. He smiled, and asked me whether I saw nothing at all -interesting in the prospect. "Yes," said I, "a sort of caravan I -perceive, about a quarter of a mile off, is by no means uninteresting; -that confused group of people in scarlet, with gleaming arms and -sumpter-mules, and those striped awnings stretched from ruined walls, -present exactly that kind of scenery I should expect to meet with in the -neighbourhood of Grand Cairo." "Come then," said he, "it is time to -clear up this mystery, and tell you for what purpose we have taken such -a long and fatiguing ride. The caravan which strikes you as being so -very picturesque, is composed of the attendants of the Prince of Brazil, -who has been passing the whole day upon a shooting-party, and is just at -this moment taking a little repose beneath yonder awnings. It was by his -desire I brought you here, for I have his commands to express his wishes -of having half-an-hour's conversation with you, unobserved, and in -perfect incognito. Walk on as if you were collecting plants or taking -sketches, I will apprize his royal highness, and you will meet as it -were by chance, and without any form. No one shall be near enough to -hear a word you say to each other, for I will take my station at the -distance of at least one hundred paces, and keep off all spies and -intruders." - -I did as I was directed. A little door in the ruined wall, against which -an awning was fixed, opened, and there appeared a young man of rather a -prepossessing figure, fairer and ruddier than most of his countrymen, -who advanced towards me with a very pleasant engaging countenance, moved -his hat in a dignified graceful manner, and after insisting upon my -being covered, began addressing himself to me with great precipitation, -in a most fluent lingua-franca, half Italian and half Portuguese. This -jargon is very prevalent at the Ajuda[22] palace, where Italian singers -are in much higher request and fashion than persons of deeper tone and -intellect. - -The first question his royal highness honoured me with was, whether I -had visited his cabinet of instruments. Upon my answering in the -affirmative, and that the apparatus appeared to me extremely perfect, -and in admirable order, he observed, "The arrangement is certainly good, -for one of my particular friends, a very learned man, has made it; but -notwithstanding the high price I have paid, your Ramsdens and Dollonds -have treated themselves more generously than me. I believe," continued -his royal highness, "according to what the Duke d'Alafoens has -repeatedly assured me, I am conversing with a person who has no weak, -blind prejudices, in favour of his country, and who sees things as they -are, not as they have been, or as they ought to be. That commercial -greediness the English display in every transaction has cost us dear in -more than one particular." - -He then ran over the ground Pombal had so often trodden bare, both in -his state papers and in various publications which had been promulgated -during his administration, and I soon perceived of what school his royal -highness was a disciple. - -"We deserve all this," continued he, "and worse, for our tame -acquiescence in every measure your cabinet dictates; but no wonder, -oppressed and debased as we are, by ponderous, useless institutions. -When there are so many drones in a hive, it is in vain to look for -honey. Were you not surprised, were you not shocked, at finding us so -many centuries behind the rest of Europe?" - -I bowed, and smiled. This spark of approbation induced, I believe, his -royal highness to blaze forth into a flaming encomium upon certain -reforms and purifications which were carrying on in Brabant, under the -auspices of his most sacred apostolic Majesty Joseph the Second. "I have -the happiness," continued the Prince, "to correspond not unfrequently -with this enlightened sovereign. The Duke d'Alafoens, who has likewise -the advantage of communicating with him, never fails to give me the -detail of these salutary proceedings. When shall we have sufficient -manliness to imitate them!" - -Though I bowed and smiled again, I could not resist taking the liberty -of observing that such very rapid and vigorous measures as those his -imperial Majesty had resorted to, were more to be admired than imitated; -that people who had been so long in darkness, if too suddenly broken in -upon by a stream of effulgence, were more likely to be blinded than -enlightened; and that blows given at random by persons whose eyes were -closed were dangerous, and might fall heaviest perhaps in directions -very opposite to those for which they were intended. This was rather -bold, and did not seem to please the novice in boldness. - -After a short pause, which allowed him, at least, an opportunity of -taking breath, he looked steadily at me, and perceiving my countenance -arrayed in the best expression of admiration I could throw into it, -resumed the thread of his philosophical discourse, and even condescended -to detail some very singular and, as they struck me, most perilous -projects. Continuing to talk on with an increased impetus (like those -whose steps are accelerated by running down hill) he dropped some vague -hints of measures that filled me not only with surprise, but with a -sensation approaching to horror. I bowed, but I could not smile. My -imagination, which had caught the alarm at the extraordinary nature of -the topics he was discoursing upon, conjured up a train of appalling -images, and I asked myself more than once whether I was not under the -influence of a distempered dream. - -Being too much engaged in listening to himself to notice my confusion, -he worked as hard as a pioneer in clearing away the rubbish of ages, -entered minutely and not unlearnedly into the ancient jurisprudence and -maxims of his country, its relations with foreign powers, and the rank -from whence it had fallen in modern times, to be attributed in a great -measure, he observed, to a blind and mistaken reliance upon the selfish -politics of our predominant island. Although he did not spare my -country, he certainly appeared not over partial to his own. He painted -its military defects and priest-ridden policy in vivid colours. In -short, this part of our discourse was a "_deploratio Lusitanic -Gentis_," full as vehement as that which the celebrated Damien a Goes, -to show his fine Latin and fine humanity, poured forth some centuries -ago over the poor wretched Laplanders. - -Not approving in any degree the tendency of all this display, I most -heartily prayed it might end. Above an hour had passed since it began, -and flattered as I was by the protraction of so condescending a -conference, I could not help thinking that these fountains of honour are -fountains of talk and not of mercy; they flow over, if once set a going, -without pity or moderation. Persons in supreme stations, whom no one -ventures to contradict, run on at a furious rate. You frequently flatter -yourself they are exhausted; but you flatter yourself in vain. Sometimes -indeed, by way of variety, they contradict themselves, and then the -debate is carried on between self and self, to the desperation of their -subject auditors, who, without being guilty of a word in reply, are -involved in the same penalty us the most captious disputant. This was my -case. I scarcely uttered a syllable after my first unsuccessful essay; -but thousands of words were nevertheless lavished upon me, and -innumerable questions proposed and answered by the questioner with equal -rapidity. - -In return for the honour of being admitted to this monological dialogue, -I kept bowing and nodding; and towards the close of the conference, -contrived to smile again pretty decently. His royal highness, I learned -afterwards, was satisfied with my looks and gestures, and even bestowed -a brevet upon me of a great deal more erudition than I possessed or -pretended to. - -The sun set, the dews fell, the Prince retired, Louis de Miranda -followed him, and I remounted my horse with an indigestion of sounding -phrases, and the most confirmed belief that "_the church was in -danger_." - -Tired and exhausted, I threw myself on my sofa the moment I reached -Ramalha; but the agitation of my spirits would not allow me any repose. -I swallowed some tea with avidity, and driving to the palace, evocated -the archbishop confessor, who had been locked up above half-an-hour in -his interior cabinet. To him I related all that had passed at this -unsought, unexpected interview. The consequences in time developed -themselves. - - - - -LETTER XXXII. - - Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the - Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk - on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at - dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary - superstition.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. - - -Nov. 9th, 1787. - -M---- and his principal almoner, a renowned missionary, and one of the -most eloquent preachers in her Majesty's dominions, were at my door by -ten, waiting to take me with them to the convent of Boa Morte. This is a -true Golgotha, a place of many skulls, for its inhabitants, though they -live, move, and have a sort of being, are little better than skeletons. -The priest who officiated appeared so emaciated and cadaverous, that I -could hardly have supposed he would have had strength sufficient to -elevate the chalice. It did not, however, fall from his hands, and -having finished his mass, a second phantom tottered forth and began -another. From the pictures and images of more than ordinary ghastliness -which cover the chapels and cloisters, and from the deep contrition -apparent in the tears, gestures, and ejaculations of the faithful who -resort to them, I fancy no convent in Lisbon can be compared with this -for austerity and devotion. - -M---- shook all over with piety, and so did his companion, whose knees -are become horny with frequent kneelings, and who, if one is to believe -Verdeil, will end his days in a hermitage, or go mad, or perhaps both. -He pretends, too, that it is this grey-beard that has added new fuel to -the flame of M----'s devotion, and that by mutually encouraging each -other, they will soon produce fruits worthy of Bedlam, if not of -Paradise. To be sure, this father may boast a conspicuously devout turn, -and a most resolute manner of thumping himself; but he must not be too -vain. In Lisbon there are at least fifty or sixty thousand good souls, -who, without having travelled so far, thump full as sonorously as he. -This morning, at Boa Morte, one shrivelled sinner remained the whole -time the masses lasted with outstretched arms, in the shape and with all -the inflexible stiffness of an old-fashioned branched candlestick. -Another contrite personage was so affected at the moment of -consecration, that he flattened his nose on the pavement, and licked the -dirt and dust with which it was thickly encrusted. - -I must confess that, notwithstanding this very superior display of -sanctity, I was not sorry to escape from the dingy cloisters of the -convent, and breathe the pure air, and look up at the blue exhilarating -sky. The weather being delightful, we drove to several distant parts of -the town, to which I was yet a stranger. Returning back by the Bairro -Alto, we looked into a new house, just finished building at an enormous -expense, by Joa Ferreira, who, from an humble retailer of leather, has -risen, by the archbishop's favour, to the possession of some of the most -lucrative contracts in Portugal. Uglier-shaped apartments than those the -poor shoe-man had contrived for himself I never beheld. The hangings are -of satin of the deepest blue, and the fiercest and most sulphureous -yellow. Every ceiling is daubed over with allegorical paintings, most -indifferently executed, and loaded with gilt ornaments, in the style of -those splendid sign-posts which some years past were the glory of -High-Holborn and St. Giles's. - -We were soon tired of all this finery, and as it was growing late, made -the best of our way to Belem. Whilst M---- was writing letters, I walked -out with Don Pedro on the verandas of the palace, which are washed by -the Tagus, and flanked with turrets. The views are enchanting, and the -day being warm and serene, I enjoyed them in all their beauty. Several -large vessels passed by as we were leaning over the balustrades, and -almost touched us with their streamers. Even frigates and ships of the -first rate approach within a quarter of a mile of the palace. - -There was a greater crowd of attendants than usual round our table at -dinner to-day, and the huge massy dishes were brought up by a long train -of gentlemen and chaplains, several of them decorated with the orders of -Avis and Christ. This attendance had quite a feudal air, and transported -the imagination to the days of chivalry, when great chieftains were -waited upon like kings, by noble vassals. - -The Portuguese had need have the stomachs of ostriches to digest the -loads of savoury viands with which they cram themselves. Their -vegetables, their rice, their poultry, are all stewed in the essence of -ham, and so strongly seasoned with pepper and spices, that a spoonful of -peas, or a quarter of an onion, is sufficient to set one's mouth in a -flame. With such a diet, and the continual swallowing of sweetmeats, I -am not surprised at their complaining so often of head-aches and -vapours. - -Several of the old Marquis of M----'s confidants and buffoons crept -forth to have a peep at the stranger, and hear the famous missionary -descant upon martyrdom and miracles. The scenery of Boa Morte being -fresh in his thoughts, his descriptions were gloomy and appalling: Don -Pedro, his sisters, and his cousin, the young Conde d'Atalaya,[23] -gathered round him with all the trembling eagerness of children who -hunger and thirst after hobgoblin stories. You may be sure he sent them -not empty away. A blacker dose of legendary superstition was never -administered. The Marchioness seemed to swallow these terrific -narrations with nearly as much avidity as her children, and the old -Abade, dropping his chin in a woful manner, produced an enormous rosary, -and kept thumbing his beads and mumbling orisons. - -M---- had luckily been summoned to the palace by a special mandate from -his royal mistress. Had he been of the party, I fear Verdeil's prophecy -would have been accomplished, for never did mortal hold forth with so -much scaring energy as this enthusiastic preacher. The most terrible -denunciations of divine wrath which ever were thundered forth by ancient -or modern writers of sermons and homilies recurred to his memory, and he -dealt them about him with a vengeance. The last half hour of the -discourse we were all in total darkness,--nobody had thought of calling -for lights: the children were huddled together, scarce venturing to move -or breathe. It was a most singular scene. - -Full of the ghastly images the good father had conjured up in my -imagination, I returned home alone in my carriage, shivering and -shuddering. My friends were out, and nothing could be more dreary than -the appearance of my fireless apartments. - - - - -LETTER XXXIII. - - Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of - beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful - countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of - Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the - Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor's.--Filial affection.--Last - interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt - regret on leaving Portugal. - - -Sunday, November 25th, 1787. - -What a morning for the 25th of November! The sun shining most -brilliantly, insects fluttering about, and flowers expanding--the late -rains having called forth a second spring, and tinted the hills round -Almada, on the opposite shore of the Tagus, with a lively green. - -I breakfasted alone, Verdeil being gone to St. Roch's, to see the -ceremony of publishing the bull of the Crusade, which allows good -Christians to eat eggs and butter during Lent, upon paying his holiness -a few shillings. I stayed at home, hearing a rehearsal of Seguidillas, -in preparation for a new intermez at the Salitri theatre, till the hour -of mass was over, then getting into the Portuguese chaise, drove -headlong to the palace in the Placa do Commercio, and hastened to the -Marquis of M----'s apartments. All his family were assembled to dine -with him. - -Had it not been for the thoughts of my approaching departure, I should -have felt more comfort and happiness than has fallen to my lot for a -long interval. M----, whose attendance on the Queen may be too justly -termed a state of downright slavery, had hardly taken his place at -table, before he was called away. The Marchioness, Donna Henriquetta, -and her little sister, soon retreated to the Camareira-Mor's apartments, -and I was left alone with Pedro and Duarte. They seized fast hold, each -of a hand, and running like greyhounds through long corridors, took me -to a balcony which commands one of the greatest thoroughfares in Lisbon. - -The evening was delightful, and vast crowds of people moving about, of -all degrees and nations, old and young, active and crippled, monks and -officers. Shoals of beggars kept pouring in from every quarter to take -their stands at the gates of the palace and watch the Queen's going out; -for her Majesty is a most indulgent mother to these sturdy sons of -idleness, and scarcely ever steps into her carriage without distributing -considerable alms amongst them. By this misplaced charity, hundreds of -stout fellows are taught the management of a crutch instead of a musket, -and the art of manufacturing sores, ulcers, and scabby pates, in the -most loathsome perfection. Duarte, who is all life and gaiety, vaulted -upon the railing of the balcony, and hung for a moment or two suspended -in a manner that would have frightened mothers and nurses into -convulsions. The beggars, who had nothing to do till her Majesty should -be forthcoming, seemed to be vastly entertained with these feats of -agility. - -They soon spied me out, and two brawny lubbers, whom an unfortunate -combination of smallpox and king's-evil had deprived of eye-sight, -informed, no doubt, by their comrades of what was going forward, began a -curious dialogue with voices still deeper and harsher than those of the -holy crows:--"Heaven prosper their noble excellencies, Don Duarte Manoel -and Don Pedro, and all the Marialvas--sweet dear youths, long may they -be blessed with the use of their eyes and of all their limbs! Is that -the charitable Englishman in their sweet company?"--"Yes, my comrade," -answered the second blind.--"What!" said the first, "that generous -favourite of the most glorious Lord St. Anthony? (O gloriosissimo Senhor -Sant-Antonio!)"--"Yes, my comrade."--"O that I had but my precious eyes, -that I might enjoy the sight of his countenance!" exclaimed both -together. - -By the time the duet was thus far advanced, the halt, the maimed, and -the scabby, having tied some greasy nightcaps to the end of long poles, -poked them up through the very railing, bawling and roaring out charity, -"charity for the sake of the holy one of Lisbon." Never was I looked up -to by a more distorted or frightful collection of countenances. I made -haste to throw down a plentiful shower of small copper money, or else -Duarte would have twitched away both poles and nightcaps, a frolic by no -means to be encouraged, as it might have marred our fame for the -readiest and most polite attention to every demand in the name of St. -Anthony. - -Just as the orators were receiving their portion of pence and farthings, -a cry of "There's the Queen, there's the Princess!" carried the whole -hideous crowd away to another scene of action, and left me at full -liberty to be amused in my turn with the squirrel-like gambols of my -lively companion; he is really a fine enterprising boy, bold, alert, and -sprightly; quite different from most of his illustrious young relations. - -Don Pedro by no means approved my English partiality to such active -feats, and after scolding his cousin for skipping about in so hazardous -a style, entreated me to take them to the Salitri theatre, where a box -had been prepared for us by his father's orders. Upon the whole, I was -better entertained than I expected, though the performance lasted above -four hours and a half, from seven to near twelve. It consisted of a -ranting prose tragedy, in three acts, called Sesostris, two ballets, a -pastoral, and a farce. The decorations were not amiss, and the dresses -showy. A shambling, blear-eyed boy, bundled out in weeds of the deepest -sable, squeaked and bellowed alternately the part of a widowed -princess. Another hob-e-di-hoy, tottering on high-heeled shoes, -represented her Egyptian majesty, and warbled two airs with all the -nauseous sweetness of a fluted falsetto. Though I could have boxed his -ears for surfeiting mine so filthily, the audience were of a very -different opinion, and were quite enthusiastic in their applause. - -In the stage-box I observed the mincing Countess of Pombeiro, whose -light hair and waxen complexion was finely contrasted by the ebon hue of -two little negro attendants perched on each side of her. It is the high -tone at present in this court to be surrounded by African implings, the -more hideous, the more prized, and to bedizen them in the most expensive -manner. The Queen has set the example, and the royal family vie with -each other in spoiling and caressing Donna Rosa, her Majesty's -black-skinned, blubber-lipped, flat-nosed favourite. - -One of the ballets was admirably got up; upon the rising of the curtain, -a strange cabalistic apartment is discovered, where an astrologer -appears very busy at a table covered with spheres and astrolabes, -arranging certain mysterious images, and pinking their eyes with a -gigantic pair of black compasses. A sort of Pierrot announces some -inquisitive travellers, who enter with many bows and scrapings. One of -them, the chief of the party, an old dapper beau in pink and silver, -reminded me very much of the Duke d'Alafoens, and sidled along and -tossed his cane about, and seemed to ask questions without waiting for -answers, with as good a grace as that janty general. The astrologer, -after explaining the wonders of his apartment with many pantomimical -contortions, invites his company to follow him, and the scene changes to -a long gallery, illuminated with a profusion of lights in gilt branches. -The perspective ends in a flight of steps, upon each of which stands a -row of figures, pantaloons, harlequins, sultans, sultanas, Indian -chiefs, devils, and savages, to all appearance motionless. Pierrot -brings in a machine like a hand-organ, and his master begins to grind, -the music accompanying. At the first chord, down drop the arms of all -the figures; at the second, each rank descends a step, and so on, till -gaining the level of the stage, and the astrologer grinding faster and -faster, the supposed clock-work-assembly begin a general dance. - -Their ballet ended, the same accords are repeated, and all hop up in the -same stiff manner they hopped down. The travellers, highly pleased with -the show, depart; Pierrot, who longs to be grinding, persuades his -master to take a walk, and leave him in possession of the gallery. He -consents; but enjoins the gaping oaf upon no account to meddle with the -machine, or set the figures in motion. Vain are his directions! no -sooner has he turned his back than Pierrot goes to work with all his -strength; the figures fall a shaking as if on the point of disjoining -themselves; creak, crack, grinds the machine with horrid harshness; -legs, arms, and noddles are thrown into convulsions, three steps are -jumped at once. Pierrot, frightened out of his senses at the goggle-eyed -crowd advancing upon him, clings close to the machine and gives the -handle no respite. The music, too, degenerates into the most jarring, -screaking sounds, and the figures knocking against each other, and -whirling round and round in utter confusion, fall flat upon the stage. -Pierrot runs from group to group in rueful despair, tries in vain to -reanimate them, and at length losing all patience, throws one over the -other, and heaps sultanas upon savages, and shepherds upon devilkins. -Most of these personages being represented by boys of twelve or thirteen -were easily wielded. After Pierrot has finished tossing and tumbling, he -drops down exhausted and lies as dead as his neighbours, hoping to -escape unnoticed amongst them. But this subterfuge avails him not; in -comes the astrologer armed with his compasses; back he starts at sight -of the confounded jumble. Pierrot pays for it all, is soon drawn forth -from his lurking-place, and the astrologer grinding in a moderate and -scientific manner, the figures lift themselves up, and returning all in -_status quo_, the ballet finishes. - -Shall I confess that this nonsense amused me pretty nearly as much as it -did my companions, whose raptures were only exceeded by those of madame -de Pombeiro's implings. They, sweet, sooty innocents, kept gibbering and -pointing at the man with the black compasses in a manner so completely -African and ludicrous, that I thought their contortions the best part -of the entertainment. - -The play ended, we hastened back to the palace, and traversing a number -of dark vestibules and guard-chambers, (all of a snore with jaded -equerries,) were almost blinded with a blaze of light from the room in -which supper was served up. There we found in addition to all the -Marialvas, the old marquis only excepted, the Camareira-mor, and five or -six other hags of supreme quality, feeding like cormorants upon a -variety of high-coloured and high-seasoned dishes. I suppose the keen -air from the Tagus, which blows right into the palace-windows, operates -as a powerful whet, for I never beheld eaters or eateresses, no not even -our old acquaintance madame la Prsidente at Paris, lay about them with -greater intrepidity. To be sure, it was a splendid repast, quite a -banquet. We had manjar branco and manjar real, and among other good -things a certain preparation of rice and chicken, which suited me -exactly, and no wonder, for this excellent mess had been just tossed up -by Donna Isabel de Castro with her own illustrious hands, in a nice -little kitchen adjoining the queen's apartment, in which all the -utensils are of solid silver. - -The number of lights upon the table, and of attendants and pages in rich -uniforms around it, was prodigious; but what interested me far more than -all this parade, was the sportive good-humour and frankness of the -company. How it happened that the presence of a stranger failed to -inspire any reserve, is one of those odd circumstances I can hardly -account for; especially as the higher orders of the Portuguese are the -farthest removed of all persons from admitting any but their nearest -relations to these family parties; but so it was, and I felt both -flattered and gratified at being permitted to witness the ease and -hilarity which prevailed. - -The dutiful, affectionate attention of the younger part of the company -to their parents was truly amiable; nor do I believe that, at this day -in any other realm in Europe, the sacred precept of honouring your -father and your mother is so cordially observed as in Portugal. Happy -if, in our intercourse with that nation, we had profited in that respect -by their example; the peace of so many of our noblest families would -not have been disturbed by the lowest connexions, nor their best blood -contaminated by matches of the most immoral, degrading tendency. We -should not have seen one year a performer acting the part of lady this -or lady t'other upon the stage, and the next in the drawing-room; nor, -upon entering some of our principal houses, have been tempted to cry -out--"Bless me! that lovely countenance is the same I recollect adoring -by moonlight on the fine broad flagstones of Bond Street or Portland -Place!"[24] - -It was now after two in the morning, and I must own, notwithstanding the -good cheer of which I had participated, and the kind entertainment I had -received, I began to feel a little tired. The children were in such -spirits, so full of frolic, and her sublimity, the Camareira-mor, so -unusually tolerant and condescending, that there was no knowing when -the party would break up. Taking, therefore, my leave in due form, I -made my retreat escorted by half-a-dozen torch-bearers. - -Just as I had gotten about half-way on my journey through what appeared -to me interminable passages, I was arrested in my progress by a pair of -dominicans, father Rocha, and his scarecrow satellite fr Jos do -Rosario. A person less accustomed than I had lately been to such -apparitions would have been startled; especially, too, if he had found -himself like me between the most formidable living pillars of the holy -inquisition. - -"What are you doing here so very late," I could not help exclaiming, "my -reverend fathers? What's the matter?" - -"The matter is," answered Rocha, with a voice of terrific hoarseness, -"that we have caught cold waiting for you in these confounded corridors. -The archbishop, above half-an-hour ago, commanded us to bring you to him -dead or alive; but a rascally jackanapes in waiting upon her excellency -the Camareira-mor would not let us in to deliver our message, so we -have been airing ourselves hitherto to no purpose." - -"Do you know," said Rocha, taking me into a little room where a lamp was -still burning, "that affairs do not go on so smoothly as they ought? The -archbishop seems to have lost both time and temper since he has been -pressed into the cabinet; and, as for the Prince of Brazil and his -consort, God forgive me for wishing their advisers and all their -intrigues in the lowest abyss of perdition. How can you be scheming a -journey to Madrid at this season? The floods are out, and the robbers -also, and I tell you what, as the archbishop says twenty times a day, if -you do go you deserve to be drowned and murdered." - -"The die is cast," I replied, "and I must take my chance; but really I -wish you would have the goodness to bid the archbishop a very good night -in my name, and let me put off asking his benediction till to-morrow, -for I am quite jaded." - -"Jaded or not," answered the monk, "you must come with me; the wind is -up in the archbishop's brain just at this moment, and by the least -contradiction more would become a hurricane." - -Finding resistance vain, I suffered myself to be conducted through two -or three open courts, very refreshing at this hour you may suppose, and -up a little staircase into the archbishop's interior cabinet. All was -still as death--no lay-brother bustling about--no sound audible but a -low breathing, which now and then swelled into a half suppressed groan, -from the agitated prelate, whom we found knee-deep in papers, immersed -in thought. - -"So," said he, "there you are at last. What have you been doing all this -while? Who but a brute of an Englishman would have kept me waiting. Ay, -ay, you told me how it would be, and you are right. They plague my soul -out. We have twenty rascals pulling as many ways. Your people too are -not what they used to be, though Mello would make us believe to the -contrary. One thing I know for certain, some infernal mischief is -afloat, and unless God's grace is speedily manifested, I see no end to -confusion, and wish myself anywhere but where I am. These -smooth-tongued, Frenchified, Italian, Voltaireists and encyclopedians -have poisoned all sound doctrine. Ay," continued he, rising up, with an -expression of indignation and anger I never saw before on his -countenance, "somebody's ears[25] are poisoned whom I could name.... But -where is the use of talking to you? You are determined to leave us, be -it so. God's providence is above all. He knows what is best for you, and -for me, and for these kingdoms. There is your passport, countersigned by -your friend Mello; and here is a letter for Lorenzana, and another for -his catholic majesty's confessor, in which I tell him what an amazing -fool you are, and unless you continue one without any remission, we -shall soon have you back again. Tell Marialva," he added, addressing -himself to Rocha (for the other father had not been admitted), "tell -Marialva and all his friends that I have dried up my tongue almost more -times than one, in attempting to argue a thousand silly whimsies and -crotchets out of his harum-scarum English brain; but come," said he, -extending his arms, "I bear no malice, I pity, I do not condemn. Let me -give you an embrace, and pray God it may not be the last you will -receive from me." - -It was, alas! the last I ever received from him, poor, honest-hearted, -kind old man! A sort of melancholy foreboding which seemed to pervade -all he said in this interview was too soon realized. The fatal tide of -events flowing on as it were with redoubled, tremendous velocity, swept -away in the course of a few short months from this period the Prince of -Brazil, the lovely and amiable infanta his sister, her husband Don -Gabriel of Spain, and the good old King Charles the Third. Not long -after, the archbishop-confessor himself was called from the plenitude of -power and the enjoyment of unrivalled influence to the presence of that -Being in whose sight "no man living shall be justified;" but as in many -trying and peculiar instances he had shown the tenderest mercy, it may -tremblingly be hoped that mercy has been shown to him. Notwithstanding -the bluntness of his manner, the kindness of his heart, so apparent in -his good-humoured, benevolent eye, found its way, almost imperceptibly -to himself, to the hearts of others, and tempered the despotic roughness -he sometimes assumed both in voice and gesture. - -I still seem to behold the last, earnest, solemn look he gave me when, -the door closing, he retired to the cares of state, and I with my escort -of torch-bearers and dominicans hastened forth to breathe the open air, -of which I stood greatly in need. Many things I had heard, and many -others I conjectured, above all, the reluctance I felt at the bottom of -my heart to leave a country in which I had received such uncommon marks -of friendship, bore heavily upon me. When I got home, scarcely two hours -before daybreak, and tried to compose myself to sleep, I was neither -refreshed nor recruited, but experienced the agitation of feverish and -broken slumbers. - - - - -LETTER XXXIV. - - Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by Perez and - Jomelli.--Marialva's affecting address.--My sorrow and anxiety. - - -26th Nov. 1787. - -I went to the church of the Martyrs to hear the matins of Perez and the -dead mass of Jomelli performed by all the principal musicians of the -royal chapel for the repose of the souls of their deceased predecessors. -Such august, such affecting music I never heard, and perhaps may never -hear again; for the flame of devout enthusiasm burns dim in almost every -part of Europe, and threatens total extinction in a very few years. As -yet it glows at Lisbon, and produced this day the most striking musical -effect. - -Every individual present seemed penetrated with the spirit of those -awful words which Perez and Jomelli have set with tremendous sublimity. -Not only the music, but the serious demeanour of the performers, of the -officiating priests, and indeed of the whole congregation, was -calculated to impress a solemn, pious terror of the world beyond the -grave. The splendid decoration of the church was changed into mourning, -the tribunes hung with black, and a veil of gold and purple thrown over -the high altar. In the midst of the choir stood a catafalque surrounded -with tapers in lofty candelabra, a row of priests motionless on each -side. There was an awful silence for several minutes, and then began the -solemn service of the dead. The singers turned pale as they sang, "Timor -mortis me conturbat." - -After the requiem, the high mass of Jomelli, in commemoration of the -deceased, was performed; that famous composition which begins with a -movement imitative of the tolling of bells, - - "Swinging slow with sullen roar." - -These deep, majestic sounds, mingled with others like the cries for -mercy of unhappy beings, around whom the shadows of death and the pains -of hell were gathering, shook every nerve in my frame, and called up in -my recollection so many affecting images, that I could not refrain from -tears. - -I scarcely knew how I was conveyed to the palace, where Marialva -expected my coming with the utmost impatience. Our conversation took a -most serious turn. He entreated me not to forget Portugal, to meditate -upon the awful service I had been hearing, and to remember he should not -die in peace unless I was present to close his eyes. - -In the actual tone of my mind I was doubly touched by this melancholy, -affectionate address. It seemed to cut through my soul, and I execrated -Verdeil and all those who had been instrumental in persuading me to -abandon such a friend. The grand prior wept bitterly at seeing my -agitation. Marialva went to the queen, and the grand prior home with me. -We dined alone; my heart was full of heaviness, and I could not eat. At -night we returned to the palace, and there all my sorrow and anxiety was -renewed. - - - - -SPAIN. - - - - -LETTER I. - - Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The - church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built - by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach Arroyolos. - - -Wednesday, Nov. 28th, 1787. - -The winds are reposing themselves, and the surface of the Tagus has all -the smoothness of a mirror. The clouds are dispersing, for it rained -heavily in the night, and the sun tinging the distant mountains of -Palmella. Charming weather for crossing to Aldea Gallega, that self-same -village in whose praises Baretti launches out with so much luxuriance. -Horne and his nephew accompanied me to the stairs of Pampulha, where the -old marquis's scalera was waiting for me, with eight-and-twenty rowers -in their bright scarlet accoutrements. - -Beggars innumerable, blind, dumb, and scabby, followed me almost into -the water. No beggars equal those of Portugal for strength of lungs, -luxuriance of sores, profusion of vermin, variety and arrangement of -tatters, and dauntless perseverance. Several clocks were striking one -when we pushed off from the shore, and in a few minutes less than two -hours we found ourselves at Aldea Gallega, four leagues from Lisbon. -Vast numbers of boats and skiffs passed us in the course of our -navigation, which I should have thought highly agreeable in other -circumstances; but I felt oppressed and melancholy; the thoughts of my -separation from the Marialvas bearing heavily on my mind. Nor could the -grand prospects of the river, and its shores, crowded with convents, -towers, and palaces, remove this dead cold weight a single instant. - -The sun having sunk into watery clouds, the expanse of the Tagus wore a -dismal, leaden-coloured aspect. Lisbon was cast into shade, and the huge -mass of the convent of San Vicente, crowning an eminence, looked dark -and solemn. The low shores of Aldea Gallega are pleasant and woody; -many varieties of the tulip, the iris, and other bulbous roots, already -springing up under the protection of spreading pines. - -Instead of going to a swinish, stinking estellagem, my courier, Martinho -de mello's prime favourite, and the one he employs upon the most -confidential negociations, conducted me to the postmaster's; a neat, -snug habitation, where I found very tolerable accommodations, and dined -in the midst of a vapour of burnt lavender, that was near depriving us -of all appetite. - -Before I sat down to table, I wrote to M----, and sent my letter by the -return of the scalera. It was not without difficulty I wrote then, or -write at present, for my kind host, the postmaster, has not only the -same age, but equal glibness of tongue as the abade. They were -cotemporary at Coimbra, and their tongues have kept pace with each other -these eighty years. The postmaster is blessed with a most tenacious -memory, and having been a mighty reader of operas, serenatas, sonnets, -and romances, seemed to sweat verses at every pore. For three hours he -gave neither himself nor us any respite, but spouted whole volleys of -Metastasio, till he was black in the face. Having washed down the heroic -sentiments of Megacle, Artaserse, and Demetrio with a dish of tea, he -fell to quoting Spanish and Latin authors, Ovid, Seneca, Lopez de Vega, -Calderon, with the same volubility. - -As millers sleep sound to the click of their mill, so I, at the end of -the two hours' gabbling, was perfectly well-seasoned, and let him run on -with the most resigned composure, writing and reading as unconcernedly -as if in a convent of Carthusians. - - -Thursday, November 29th. - -There was a continual racket in the house and about the street-door all -night. At four o'clock the baggage-carts set forth, with a tremendous -jingling of bells. The morning was so soft and vernal, that we drank our -chocolate on the veranda, which commands a wild rural view of shrubby -fields and scattered pines, terminated by a long range of blue hills, -most picturesquely varied in form, if not in colour. - -After breakfast I went to the church, which Colmenar pretends is -magnificently gilt and ornamented; but which, in fact, can boast no -other decoration than a few shabby altars, displaying the images of -Nossa Senhora, and the patron saint, in tinselled garments of faded -taffeta. I knelt on a mouldy pavement, and felt a chill wind issuing -from between the crevices of loose grave-stones, that returned a hollow -sound when I rose up and walked over them. A priest, who was saying -mass, officiated with uncommon slowness and solemnity. It was hardly -light in the recesses of the chapels. - -Soon after eight o'clock we left Aldea Gallega, and ploughed through -deep furrows of sand at the sober rate of two miles and a half in an -hour. On both sides of the heavy road the eye ranges uninterrupted, -except by the stems of starveling pines, through a boundless extent of -barren country, overgrown with stunted ilex and gum-cistus. The same -scenery lasted without any variation full five leagues, to the venta de -Pegoens, where I am now writing, in a long dismal room, with plastered -walls, a damp brick-floor, and cracked window-shutters. A pack of -half-famished dogs are leaping around me, their eyes ready to start out -of their sockets and their ribs out of their skin. - -After dining upon the provisions we brought with us, of which the -yelping generation enjoyed no inconsiderable share, we proceeded through -sandy wilds diversified alone by pines. Not a single habitation -occurred, till by a glimmering dubious starlight, for it was now -half-past seven, we discovered the extensive front of a palace, built in -the year 1729, by John the fifth, for the accommodation of the infanta -of Spain, who married his son, the late king D. Jos. Here we were to -lodge, and I was rather surprised, upon entering a long suite of -well-proportioned apartments, to find doors and windows still capable of -being shut and opened, large chimneys guiltless of smoking out of their -right channel, and painted ceilings without cracks or crevices. - -A young priest, neither deficient in manners nor erudition, the keeper -of this solitary palace, did his utmost to make our stay in it -agreeable. By his attention, we had some chairs and tables placed by a -blazing fire, which I worshipped with all the fervour of an ancient -Persian. I had need of this consolation, being much disordered by the -tiresome dragging of our heavy coach through heaps of sand, and -depressed with feverish shiverings. - - -Friday, November 30th. - -It was a long while last night before I composed myself to sleep, and -being called at the first dawn, I rose, if possible, more indisposed -than when I lay down; I could scarcely swallow any refreshment, and kept -walking disconsolately through the vast range of naked apartments, till -the rays of the rising sun entered the windows. The horizon glowed with -ruddy clouds. The vast desert levels, discovered from the balconies of -the palace, gleamed with dewy verdure. I hastened out to breathe the -fresh morning air, impregnated with the perfume of a thousand aromatic -shrubs and opening flowers. I could not believe it was the last day of -November, but fancied I had slept away the winter, and was just awakened -in the month of May. - -To enjoy these fragrant breezes in full liberty, I left our carriage to -drag along as slowly as the mules pleased, and the muleteers to smoke -their cigarros as deliberately as they thought proper; and mounting my -horse, rode the best part of the way to Montemor; which is built on the -acclivity of a mountain, and surrounded on every side by groves of -olives. The whole face of the country is covered by the same -vegetation, and, of course, presents no very cheerful appearance. - -About a mile from Montemor we crossed a clear river, whose banks are -thick-set with poplars, and a light, airy species of broom, intermixed -with indian-fig, and laurustine in full blossom. The bees were swarming -amongst the flowers, and filling the air with their hum. - -Whilst our dinner was preparing we climbed up the green slopes of a -lofty hill, to some ruins on its summit; and passing under a narrow arch -discovered a broad flight of steps, which lead to a very ancient church -of gothic uncouth architecture: the pavement almost entirely composed of -sepulchral slabs and brasses. As we walked on a platform before the -entrance, the sun shone so fiercely that we were glad to descend the -eminence on its shadiest side, and take refuge in a cavern-like -apartment of the estallagem, very damp and dingy; but in which, however, -an excellent dinner awaited our arrival. - -We set out at two in a blaze of sunshine, so cheerful and reviving, that -I got once more on horseback, and never dismounted till I reached -Arroyolos. Just as we came in sight of this ugly old town, which, like -Montemor, crowns the summit of a rocky eminence, it fell totally dark; -but the postmaster coming forth with torches, lighted us through several -winding alleys to his house. I found some pleasant apartments amply -furnished, and richly carpeted, and had the comfort of settling myself -by a crackling fire, writing to the whole circle of the Marialvas, and -drinking tea without being attacked by quotations of Virgil and -Metastasio. - - - - -LETTER II. - - A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An - outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our - reception there.--My visiters. - - -Saturday, December 1st, 1787. - -Hitherto I have had no reason to complain of my accommodations in -travelling through Portugal. A mandate from the governor procured me -milk this morning for my breakfast, much against the will of the -proprietor, who had a great inclination to keep all to himself. The idea -of its being squeezed out by force, persuaded me that it had a very sour -taste, and I hardly touched it. - -I laid in a stock of carpets for my journey, of strange grotesque -patterns and glaring colours, the produce of a manufactory in this town, -which employs about three hundred persons. Methinks I begin to write as -dully as Major W. Dalrymple, whose dry journal of travels through a -part of Spain I had the misfortune of reading in the coach this morning, -as we jogged and jolted along the dreary road between Arroyolos and -Venta do Duque. - -We passed a wild tract of forest-land, and saw numerous herds of swine -luxuriously scratching themselves against the rugged bark of cork-trees, -and routing up the moss at their roots in search of acorns. Venta do -Duque is a sty right worthy of being the capital of hoggish dominions. -It can boast, however, of a chimney, which, giving us the opportunity of -making a fire, rendered our stay in it less intolerable. - -The evening turned out cloudy and cold. Before we arrived at Estremoz, -another city on a hill, better and farther seen than it merits, it began -to rain with a vengeance. I hear it splashing and driving this moment in -the puddles which lie in the vast, forlorn market-place, at one end of -which our posada is situated. For Portugal, this posada is by no means -indifferent; the walls and ceilings have been neatly whitewashed, and -here are chairs and tables. My carpets are of essential service in -protecting my feet from the damp brick-floors. I have spread them all -round my bed, and they make a flaming exotic appearance. - - -Sunday, December 2nd. - -When I opened my eyes about seven in the morning, the sky was still -dismal and lowering; and a crowd of human figures, enveloped in dark -capotes, were just issuing from several dens and lurking-places on each -side the entrance of the posada. A fair, which was held to-day, had -drawn them together, and they were lamenting in chorus the rainy -weather, which prevented the display of their rural finery. Most of -these good people had passed the night in the stables of the posada. As -I came down stairs, I saw several of their companions of both sexes -lying about like the killed and wounded on a field of battle; or, to use -a less fatal comparison, like the dead-drunk during a contested election -in England. - -From the windows of the posada I looked down on a vast opening a -thousand feet in breadth, surrounded by irregular buildings; amongst -which I could not discover any of those handsome edifices adorned with -marble columns, some travelling scribblers mention in terms of the -highest commendation. The marble tower, too, they describe, built by Don -Deniz, has totally lost its polish, if true it is it ever had any. - -Hard by the posada is a little chapel, to which I repaired as soon as I -had breakfasted, and heard an outrageous sermon preached by a -grey-headed, fiery-eyed capuchin, to a troop of blubbering females. - -As it did not positively rain, but only drizzled, after the fashion of -my own dear native country, I rode part of the way to Elvas, and -traversed boundless wastes of gum-cistus, whose dark-green casts a -melancholy shade over the face of the country. A mile or two from Elvas, -the scene changes to a forest of olives, with fountains by the wayside, -and avenues of poplars, which were not yet deprived of their foliage. -Above their summits tower the arches of an aqueduct, supported by strong -buttresses, and presenting, when seen in perspective, an appearance, in -some points of view, not unlike that of a ruined gothic cathedral. The -ramparts of Elvas are laid out and planted much in the style of our -English gardens, and form very delightful walks. - -Upon entering the town, which seems populous and thriving, we were -conducted to a very clean neat house, prepared for our reception by -order of the governor, Monsieur de Vallar. A dignified sort of a page, -or groom of the chambers, in a blue coat richly laced, and the order of -St. Jago dangling at his buttonhole, stood ready at the door to show us -up stairs, and, according to the Portuguese system of politeness, never -quitted our elbows a single moment. - -I had hardly reconnoitred my new apartments, before Monsieur de Vallar -was announced. He brought with him the Abade Correa, one of the -luminaries of modern Portuguese literature, whose conversation afforded -me great amusement. We sallied out together to visit the fortifications, -the stables for the cavalry, and barracks for the soldiers, which are -all in admirable order; thanks to the governor, who is indefatigable in -his exertions, and retains at a very experienced age the agility of -five-and-twenty. I was delighted with his cheerful, military frankness, -and unaffected attentions. He told me, he had stood the fire of our -formidable column at Fontenoy, and never enjoyed himself so much in his -life, as in the smoke and havoc of that furious engagement. - -From one of the bastions to which he conducted us, we had a distinct -view of the fort de la Lippe, erected at an enormous expense on the -summit of a woody mountain. Had the weather been fine, it might have -tempted me to climb up to it; but showers beginning to descend, I -preferred taking shelter in a snug apartment of the marchal, enlivened -by a blazing pile of aromatic woods, raised up on a grate in a -christian-like manner. The abade and I drawing close to this hospitable -hearth, talked over Lisbon and its inhabitants; whilst Verdeil amused -himself with scrutinizing some minerals the marchal had collected, and -which lay scattered about his room. - -In these occupations the time passed till supper. We had pork delicately -flavoured, exquisite quails, and salads, prepared in different manners, -the most delicious I ever tasted. Our conversation was lively and -unrestrained; Correa has an originality of genius and freedom of -sentiment, which the terrors of the inquisition have not yet -extinguished. - - - - -LETTER III. - - Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer's - enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast - plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Names and characters of - our mules.--Posada at Merida. - - -Monday, Dec. 3rd, 1787. - -The marchal and the abade breakfasted with me, but the rain prevented -my taking another walk about the fortifications, and seeing the troops -go through their exercise. At ten we set off, well escorted, traversed a -dismal plain, and passed a rivulet which separates the two kingdoms. No -sooner had one of our muleteers passed this boundary, than cutting a -cross in the turf with his knife, he fell prostrate and kissed the -ground with a transport of devotion. - -Upon ascending the bank of the rivulet we came in sight of Badajoz and -its long narrow bridge over the Guadiana. The custom-house was all -mildness and moderation. Its harpies have neither flown away with my -books, as Bezerra predicted, nor set their talons in my coffers. At -sight of my passport, such a one, I believe, as is not very frequently -granted, all difficulties gave way, and I was permitted to enter the -lonely, melancholy streets of Badajoz, without being stopped an instant, -or having my baggage ransacked. - -This circumstance, no wonder, gave me greater satisfaction than the -aspect of the town and its inhabitants, which is decidedly gloomy. Every -house almost has grated-windows, and the few human creatures that stared -at us from them, were muffled up to their noses in heavy mantles of the -darkest colours. - -We continued winding half an hour in slow and solemn procession through -narrow streets and alleys, whose gutters were full to the brim, before -we reached the large dingy mansion their excellencies, the governor and -intendant, had been so gracious as to allot for my reception. Both these -personages were, providentially, laid up with agues, or else, it seems, -I should have been honoured with their company the whole evening. - -A mob of eyes and mantles, for neither mouths, arms, nor scarcely legs -were discernible, assembled round the carriages the moment they halted, -and had the patience to remain in the street, silently smoking their -cigarros, the whole time I was at dinner. - -It was night before I rose from table, crept down stairs, and, though it -continued raining at frequent intervals, waded to the cathedral, through -much mire, and between several societies of hogs, which lay sweetly -sleeping to the murmur of dropping eaves, in the midst of gutters and -kennels. - -The cathedral is formed by three aisles of equal breadth, supported by -pillars and arches, in a tolerably good pointed style. Several lofty -chapels open into them, with solemn gates of iron. In the centre of the -middle aisle some bungling architect has awkwardly stuck the choir, not -many paces from the principal entrance, and by so doing has shut out the -view of the high altar: no great loss, however, the high altar looking -little better than a huge mass of rock-work, gilt and burnished. Under -the choir is a staircase leading down to the grated entrance of a vault. -Lamps were burning before many of the altars, and they distributed a -faint light throughout the whole edifice. - -I paced silently to and fro in the aisles, whilst the canons were -chaunting vespers. The choristers still retain the same dress in which -St. Anthony is represented, in the picture which hung by the miraculous -cross he indented when flying the persecutions of Satan. There was a -solemnity in the glimmer of the lamps, the gloomy, indefinite depth of -the chapels, and the darkness of the vault beneath the choir, that -affected me. I passed a very uncomfortable evening, and a worse night. - - -Tuesday, Dec. 4. - -Not a wink of sleep did the musquitos allow me. I was glad to call for -lights at four, and was still happier to step into the coach at five; -from that hour to half-past-eight I contrived to slumber in a feverish, -agitated manner, that did me little good. - -When I opened my eyes, I found myself traversing a vast plain as level -as the ocean. In summer, this waste must convey none but ideas of -sterility and desolation; at present, a fresh verdure, browsed by -numerous flocks, rendered its appearance tolerable. The sheep, which -are large and thriving, have fleeces as long and as silky as the hair of -a barbet, combed every day by the hands of its mistress. I observed -numbers of lambs of the most shining whiteness, with black ears and -noses; just such neat little animals as those I remember to have seen in -the era of Dresden china, at the feet of smirking shepherdesses. - -We dined at a village of mud cottages, called Lubaon, situated on some -rising ground, about eighteen miles from Badajoz, whose inhabitants seem -to have attained the last stage of poverty and wretchedness. Two or -three withered hags, that even in the prophet Habakkuk's resurrection of -dry bones, would have attracted attention, laid hold of me the moment I -got out of the carriage. I thought the cold hand of the weird sisters -was giving me a gripe; and trembled lest, whether I would or not, I -might hear some fatal prediction. To get out of their way I flew to the -church, an old gothic building, placed on the edge of a steep, which -shelves almost perpendicularly down to the banks of the Guadiana, and -took sanctuary in its porch. There I remained till summoned to dinner, -listening to the murmur of the distant river flowing round sandy -islands. - -I won the hearts of my muleteers by caressing their mules, and inquiring -with a respectful earnestness their names and characters. Capitana may -be depended upon in cases of labour and difficulty; Valerosa is skittish -and enterprising; Pelerina rather sluggish and cowardly; but la -Commissaria unites every mulish perfection; is tractable, steady, and -sure-footed, and at the same time (to use the identical expression of my -calasero) the greatest driver of dirt before her in the universe. She is -certainly an animal of uncommon resolution; and when tired to death by -the slow paces of her companions, how often have I wished myself -abandoned to her guidance in a light two-wheeled chaise. - -We left Lubaon at half-past two, and, as I had the happiness of sleeping -almost the whole way to Merida, can give little account of the country. - -I was hardly awake, when we entered the posada at Merida, and started -back, dazzled with an illumination of wax-lights, solemnly stuck in -sconces all round a lofty room, with glaring white walls, as if I had -been expected to lie in state. In the middle of the apartment stood a -large brasier, full of glowing embers, exhaling so strong a perfume of -rosemary and lavender, that my head swam, and I reeled like a drunkard. -But as soon as this vile machine was removed, I sat down to write in -peace and comfort. - - - - -LETTER IV. - - Arrival at Miaxadas.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal - country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense - wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--A - terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range of lofty - mountains.--Calzada. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 5th, 1787. - -About five leagues from Merida we stopped at a hovel too wretched to -afford shelter even to our mules. The situation, amidst green hills -scattered over with picturesque ilex, is not unpleasant; and such was -the mildness of the day, that we spread our table on a knoll, and dined -in the open air, surrounded by geese and asses, to whom I distributed -ample slices of water-melons. From this spot three short leagues brought -us to Miaxadas, where we arrived at night. Its inhabitants were gathered -in clusters at their doors, each holding a lamp, and crying, "Biva! -Biva!" - -Instead of entering a dirty posada, my courier ushered me into a sort -of gallery, with a handsome arched roof, matted all over, and set round -with gilt chairs. The donna de la casa made very low obeisances, not -without great primness, and her maids sang tirannas with a wailful -monotony that wore my very soul out. - - -Thursday, Dec. 6th. - -Soaking rain and dismal country, thick strewn with fragments of rock. -Mountains wrapped in mists,--here and there a few green spots studded -with mushrooms. We went seven leagues without stopping, and reached -Truxillo by four. It was this gloomy city, situated on a black eminence, -that gave birth to the ruthless Pizarro, the scourge of the Peruvians, -and the murderer of Atabaliba. We were lodged in a very tolerable -posada, unmolested by speech-makers, and heard no noise but the -trickling of showers. - - -Friday, Dec. 7th. - -I was awakened at five: the gutters were pouring, and all the -water-spouts of Truxillo streaming with rain. An hour and a half did I -pass in a ghostly twilight, my candles being packed up, and all the oil -of the house expended. It required great exertion on the part of my -vigilant courier to prevail on our hulky muleteers to expose themselves -to the bad weather. - -At length, with much ado, we rumbled out of Truxillo, and after -traversing for the space of two leagues the nakedest and most dreary -region I ever beheld, a faint gleam of sunshine melted the deadly white -of the thick clouds which hung over us, and the horizon brightening up, -we discovered a wood of cork-trees interspersed with lawns extending as -far as the eye could stretch itself. These green spots continued to -occur our whole way to Saraseos. There we halted, dined in haste at not -half so wretched a posada as I had been taught to expect, and continuing -our route, the sky clearing, ascended a mountain, from whose brow we -looked down on a valley variegated with patches of ploughed land, wild -shrubberies, and wandering rivulets. - -We had not much time to feast our eyes with this pastoral prospect; the -clouds soon rolled over it, and we found ourselves in a damp fog. The -rest of our journey to Almaraz was a total blank; we saw nothing and -heard nothing, and arrived at the place of our destination in perfect -health and stupidity. - -The escrivano, who is the judge and jury of the village, was so kind as -to accommodate us with his house, and so polite as not to incommode us -with his presence. He is a holy man, and a strenuous advocate for the -immaculate conception, no less than three large folios upon that -mysterious subject lying about in his apartment. - - -Saturday, Dec. 8th. - -Whilst the muleteers were harnessing their beasts together with rotten -cords, I took up a little old book of my pious host's, full of the most -dismal superstitions, entitled _Espeio de Cristal fino, y Antorcha que -aviva el alma_, and read in it till I was benumbed with horror. Many -pages are engrossed with a description of the state into which the -author imagines we are plunged immediately after death. The body he -supposes conscious of all that befalls it in the grave, of exchanging -its warm, comfortable habitation for the cold, pestilential soil of a -churchyard, conscious that its friends have abandoned it for ever, and -of its inability to call them back; to be sensible of the approaches and -progress of the most loathsome corruption, and to hear the voice of an -accusing angel, recapitulating its offences, and summoning it to the -judgment of God. The book ends with a vehement exhortation to repent -while there is yet time, and to procure by fervent prayer, and ample -donations to religious communities, the intercession of the host of -martyrs and of Nuestra Seora. I can easily conceive these scarecrow -publications of infinite use in frightening three parts of mankind out -of their senses, prolonging the reign, and swelling the coffers of the -clergy. - -The horrid images I had seen in this (Espeio) mirror haunted my fancy -for several hours. To dissipate them I mounted my horse, and eagerly -inhaled the fresh breezes that blew over springing herbage, and wastes -of lavender. The birds were singing, the clouds dividing, and -discovering long tracts of soft blue sky. I galloped gaily along a level -country, interspersed with woods of ilex, to the village of Laval de -Moral, where the inhabitants were most devoutly employed in their -churches conciliating the favour of the madonna by keeping holy the -festival of the immaculate conception. There the coach coming up with -me, I got in; and the mules dragging it along at a rate which in the -days of my fire and fury would have made me thump out its bottom with -impatience, I fell into a resigned slumber, and am ignorant of every -object between Laval de Moral and Calzada, in sight of which town I -awoke near five in the evening. - -The sun was setting in a sea of molten gold, and tinging the snows of a -range of lofty mountains, which I discovered for the first time bounding -our horizon. I might have seen them before most probably, had they not -remained till this evening wrapped up in rainy vapours. - -It is at their base the Escurial is situated. I had the consolation of -stepping out of the coach at Calzada into a house with cheerful, neat -apartments, with an open gallery, where I walked contemplating the red -streams of light, and brilliant skirted clouds of the western sky, till -dinner came upon table. Though the doors and windows were all wide open, -I suffered no inconvenience worth mentioning from cold. The master of -the house, a portly, pompous barber-surgeon, most firm in his belief of -the supremacy of Spain over every country in the universe, confessed, -however, the weather was uncommonly warm, and that so mild a month of -December was rather extraordinary. - - - - -LETTER V. - - Sierra de los Gregos.--Mass.--Oropeza.--Talavera--Drawling - tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at Santa Olaya.--The - lady of the house, and her dogs and dancers. - - -Sunday, December 9th, 1787. - -The mountains I saw yesterday are called the Sierra de los Gregos, and -the winds that blow over their summits begin to chill the atmosphere; -but the sun is shining gloriously, and not a cloud obscures his -effulgence. The stars were still twinkling in the firmament, when I was -attracted to mass in the large gloomy church of a nunnery, by the voices -of the Lord's spouses issuing from a sepulchral grate bristled with -spikes of iron. These tremulous, plaintive sounds filled me with such -sadness, and so many recollections of interesting hours departed never -to return, that I felt relieved when I found myself out of sight of the -convent, on a cheerful road thronged with passengers. - -We passed Oropeza, a picturesque, Italian-looking town, on the brow of a -mountain; dined at a venda, in the midst of a savage tract of -forest-land, infamous till within this year or two for robberies and -assassinations; and reached Talavera de la Reyna by sunset. - -More, I believe, has been said in praise of this town than it deserves. -Its appearance is far from cheerful or elegant; and the heavy -brick-fronts of the convents and churches as ill designed as executed. -The streets, however, are crowded with people, who seem to be moving -about with rather more activity than falls to the lot of Spaniards in -general. I am told the silk-manufactories at Talavera are in a -flourishing state, and have taken a good many hands out of the folds of -their mantles. - -Colmenar is perpetually leading me into errors, and causing me -disappointments. He pretends that the inhabitants of this place are -nearly as skilful as those of Pekin and Macao in the manufacturing of -lacquered wares, and that their pottery is unrivalled; but, upon -inquiry, I found the Talaverans no particular proficients in varnish, -and that they had neither a cup nor basin to produce in the least -preferable to those of other villages. - -In one art they are indefatigable, I can answer to my sorrow; that is, -singing drawling tirannas to the monotonous accompaniment of a sort of -hum-strum or hurdy-gurdy, or the devil knows best what sort of -instruments, for such as I hear at this moment under my windows are only -fit to be played in his dominions. I am quite at the mercy of these -untoward minstrels; if they cease not, I must defer sleeping to another -opportunity. Am I then come into Spain to hear hum-strums and -hurdy-gurdies? Where are the rapturous seguidillas, of which I have been -told such wonders? Do they exist, or, like the japanned wares of the -Talaverans, are they only to be found in books of travels and -geographical dictionaries? - - -Monday, December 10th. - -I beg Talavera de la Reyna a thousand pardons; it is not quite so -frightful as it appeared in the twilight of yesterday evening. Many of -the houses have a palace-like appearance, and the interior of the old -gothic cathedral, though not remarkably spacious, has an air of -magnificence; the stalls of the choir are elaborately carved, and on -each side the high altar, curtains of the richest crimson damask fall -from the roof in ample folds, and cast a ruddy glow on the pavement. - -If Talavera has nothing within its walls to be much boasted of, there -are many objects in its environs that merit praise. No sooner had we -left its dark crooked streets behind us, than we discovered a thick wood -of elms skirting an extensive lawn, beautifully green and level, from -which rises the convent of Nuestra Seora del Prayo, crowned by an -octangular cupola. This edifice is built of brick encrusted with stone -ornaments, and choked up by ranges of arcades and heavy galleries. I -have seen several structures which resembled it in the neighbourhood of -Antwerp and Brussels; but whether the Spaniards carried this clumsy -style of architecture into the Low Countries, or borrowed from thence, -is scarcely worth while to determine. - -Not far from Nuestra Seora del Prayo we crossed the Tagus, and -continued dragging through heavy sands for five tedious hours, without -perceiving a habitation, or meeting any animal, biped or quadruped, -except herds of swine, in which, I believe, consist the principal riches -of this part of the Spanish dominions. I doubt whether the royal sty of -Ithaca was half so well garnished, as many private ones in New Castile -and Estremadura. - -Having nothing to look at except a dreary plain bounded by barren, -uninteresting mountains, I was reduced to tumble over the trashy -collection of books, with which I happen in this journey to be provided; -poor fiddle-faddle Derrick's Letters from Cork, Chester, and Tunbridge; -John Buncle, Esquire's, life, holy rhapsodies, and peregrinations; -Shenstone's, Mr. Whistler's, and the good Duchess of Somerset's -Correspondence; Bray's tour, right worthy of an ass; Heley's fulsome -description of the Leasowes and Hagley; Clarke's ponderous account of -Spain; and Major Dalrymple's dry, tiresome, and splenetic excursion. -There's a set, equal it if you can. I hope to get a better at Madrid, -and throw my old stock into the Mananares. - -We dined at a village called Brabo, not in the least worth mentioning, -and arrived in due tiresome course, about six in the evening, at Santa -Olaya, where my courier had procured us an admirable lodging in the -house of a veteran colonel. The principal apartment, in which I pitched -my bed, was a lofty gallery, with large folding glazed doors, gilt and -varnished, its white walls almost covered with saintly pictures and -small mirrors, stuck near the ceiling, beyond the reach of mortal sight, -as if their proprietor was afraid they would wear out by being looked -into. On low tables, to the right and left of the door, stood -glass-cases, filled with relics and artificial flowers. Stools covered -with velvet, and raised not above a foot from the floor, were stationed -all round the room. On one of these I squatted like an oriental, warming -my hands over a brasier of coals. - -The old lady of the house, followed by a train of curtseying handmaids -and snifling lapdogs, favoured me with her company the best part of the -evening. Her spouse, the colonel, being indisposed, did not make his -appearance. Whilst she was entertaining me with a most flourishing -detail of the excellent qualities and wonderful acquisitions of the -infant Don Louis, who died about two years ago at his villa in this -neighbourhood, some very grotesque figures entered the antechamber, and -tinkling their guitars, struck up a seguidilla, that in a minute or two -set all the feet in the house in motion. Amongst the dancers, two young -girls, whose jetty locks were braided with some degree of elegance, -shone forth in a fandango, beating the ground and snapping their fingers -with rapturous agility. - -This sport lasted a full hour, before they showed the least sign of -being tired; then succeeded some languorous tirannas, by no means so -delightful as I expected. I was not sorry when the ball ceased, and my -kind hostess, moving off with all her dogs and dancers, left me to sup -and sleep in tranquillity. - - - - -LETTER VI. - - Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined - musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect - of the city.--The Calle d'Alcala.--The Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. - - -Tuesday, Dec. 11th, 1787. - -Dismal plains and still more dismal mountains; no indication as yet of -the approach to a capital; dined at Santa Cruz; thought we should have -been flayed alive by its greedy inhabitants; arrived in the dark at Val -de Carneiro; lodged in the house of a certain Don Bernardo, passionately -fond of music. The apartment allotted to me contained no less than two -harpsichords: one of them, in a fine gilt case, very pompous and sullen, -I could scarcely prevail upon the keys to move; next it stood a very -sweet-toned modest little spinet, that responded to my touch right -willingly, and as I happened to play some Brazilian ditties Don -Bernardo never heard before, he was so good as to be in raptures. - -These were becoming every minute more enthusiastic, when the arrival of -the alcayde mayor, followed by a priest or two with enormous spectacles -on their thin snipish noses, interrupted our harmonious proceedings. -This personage came expressly to pay me a visit, and to ask questions -about England and her unnatural offspring, the revolted provinces of -North America; a country which he had heard was colder and darker than -the grave, and spread all over with animals, whether biped or quadruped -he could not tell, called _koakeres_, living like beavers, in strange -huts or tabernacles of their own construction. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 12th. - -Don Bernardo showed me his cellars, in which are several casks capable -of holding thirty or forty hogsheads, and ranges of jars in the shape of -the antique amphor, ten feet high, and not less than six in diameter. -For the first time in my life I tasted the genuine Spanish chocolate, -spiced and cinnamoned beyond all endurance. It has put my mouth in a -flame, and I do nothing but spit and sputter. - -The weather was so damp and foggy that we could hardly see ten yards -before us: I cannot, therefore, in conscience abuse the approach to -Madrid so much, I believe, as it deserves. About one o'clock, the -vapours beginning to dissipate, a huge mass of building, and a confused -jumble of steeples, domes, and towers, started on a sudden from the -mist. The large building I soon recognized to be the new palace. It is a -good deal in the style of Caserta, but being raised on a considerable -eminence, produces a more striking effect. At its base flows the pitiful -river Mananares, whose banks were all of a flutter with linen hanging -out to dry. - -We passed through this rag-fair, between crowds of mahogany-coloured -hags, who left off thumping their linen to stare at us, and, crossing a -broad bridge over a narrow streamlet, entered Madrid by a gateway of -very indifferent architecture. The neat pavement of the streets, the -loftiness of the houses, and the cheerful showy appearance of many of -the shops, far surpassed my expectation. - -Upon entering the Calle d'Alcala, a noble street, much wider than any in -London, I was still more surprised. Several magnificent palaces and -convents adorn it on both sides. At one extremity, you perceive the -trees and fountains of the Prado, and, at the other, the lofty domes of -a series of churches. We have got apartments at the Cruz de Malta, -which, though very indifferently furnished, have at least the advantage -of commanding this prospect. I passed half-an-hour after dinner in one -of the balconies, gazing upon the variety of equipages which were -rattling along. The street sloping gradually down, and being paved with -remarkable smoothness, they drove at a furious rate, the high fashion at -Madrid; where to hurry along at the risk of laming your mules, and -cracking their skulls, is to follow the example of his Majesty, than -whom no monarch drives with greater vehemence. - -I strolled to the Prado, and was much struck by the spaciousness of the -principal walk, the length of the avenues, and the stateliness of the -fountains. Though the evening was damp and gloomy, a great many people -were rambling about, and a long line of carriages parading. The dress of -the ladies, the cut of their servants' liveries, the bags of the -coachmen, and the painting of the coaches, were so perfectly Parisian, -that I fancied myself on the Boulevards, and looked in vain for those -ponderous equipages, surrounded by pages and escudeiros, one reads of in -Spanish romances. A total change has taken place, and the original -national customs are almost obliterated. - -Devotion, however, is not yet banished from the Prado; at the ringing of -the Ave-Maria bell, the coaches stopped, the servants took off their -hats, the ladies crossed themselves, and the foot passengers stood -motionless, muttering their orisons. There is both opera and play -to-night, I believe, but I am in no mood to go to either. - - - - -LETTER VII. - - The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her apartment - described.--Her passion for music.--Her seoras de honor. - - -Thursday, Dec. 13th, 1787. - -It was a heavy damp morning, and I could hardly prevail upon myself to -quit my fireside and deliver the archbishop's most confidential -despatches to the Portuguese ambassador Don Diogo de Noronha. - -The ambassador being gone to the palace, I drove to the Duchess of -Berwick's, my old acquaintance, with whom I passed so much of my time at -Paris eight years ago. Her dear spouse, so well known at Spa, Brussels, -Aix-la-Chapelle, and all the gaming-places of Europe, by the name, -style, and title of marquis of Jamaica, has been departed these five or -six months; and she is now mistress of the most splendid palace in -Madrid, of one of the first fortunes, and of the affairs of her only -son, the present Duke of Berwick, to whom she is guardian. - -The faade of the palace, and the spacious court before it, pleased me -extremely. It is in the best style of modern Parisian architecture, -simple and graceful. I was conducted up a majestic staircase, adorned -with corinthian columns, and through a long suite of apartments, at the -extremity of which, in a saloon hung with embroidered India satin, sat -reclined madame la duchesse, in all her accustomed nonchalance. She -seemed never to have moved from her sofa since I last had the pleasure -of seeing her, and is exactly the same good-natured, indolent being, -free from malice or uncharitableness; I wish the world was fuller of -this harmless, quiet species. - -The morning passed most rapidly away in talking over rose-coloured -times; I returned home to dine, and as soon as it was dark went back -again to madame de Berwick's, who was waiting tea for me. I like her -apartment very much, the angles are taken off by low semicircular sofas, -and the space between them and the hangings filled up with slabs of -Granadian marble, on which are placed most beautiful porcelain vases -with mignonette and rose-trees in full bloom. The fire burnt cheerfully, -the table was drawn close to it; the duchess's little girl, Donna -Ferdinanda, sat playing and smiling upon a dog, which she held in her -lap, and had swaddled up like an infant. - -Soon after tea, the young duke of Berwick and a French abb, his -preceptor, came in and stayed with us the remainder of the evening. The -duke is only fourteen and some months, but he is taller than I am, and -as plump as the plumpest of partridges. His manners are French, and his -address as prematurely formed as his figure. Few, if any, fortunes in -Europe equal that which he enjoys, and of which he has expectations; -being heir to the house of Alba, seventy thousand a-year at least, and -in possession of the Veragua and Liria estates. These immense properties -are of course underlet, and wretchedly cultivated. If able exertions -were made in their management, his income might be doubled. - -Madame de Berwick has not lost her passion for music; operas and sonatas -lie scattered all over her apartment; not only singing-books were lying -on the carpet, but singers themselves; three of her musical attendants, -a page, and two pretty little seoras de honor, having cast themselves -carelessly at her feet in the true Spanish, or rather morisco, fashion, -ready to warble forth the moment she gave the signal, which was not long -delayed, and never did I hear more soothing voices. The inspiration they -gave rise to drove me to the piano-forte, where I played and sang those -airs Madame de Berwick was so fond of in the dawn of our acquaintance; -when, thanks to her cherished indolence, she had the resignation to -listen day after day, and hour after hour, to my romantic rhapsodies. -How fervid and ecstatic was I in those days; the toy of every impulse, -the willing dupe of every gay illusion. The duchess tells me, she thinks -from the tone of our conversation in the morning, that I am now a little -sobered, and may possibly get through this thorny world without losing -my wits on its briars. - - - - -LETTER VIII. - - The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and gardens of the - Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Ambassador and his numerous - train.--Farinelli's apartments. - - -Dec. 14th, 1785. - -One of the best informed and pleasantest of Spaniards, the Chevalier de -Roxas, who had been very intimate both with Verdeil and me at Lausanne, -came in a violent hurry this morning to give us a cordial embrace. He -seems to have set his heart upon showing us about Madrid, and rendering -our stay here as lively as he could make it. Fifty schemes did he -propose in half a minute, of visiting museums, churches, and public -buildings; of goings to balls, theatres, and tertullias. - -I took alarm at this busy prospect, drew back into my shell, and began -wishing myself in the most perfect incognito; but, alas! to no purpose, -it was all in vain. - -Roxas, most eager to enter upon his office of cicerone, fidgeted to the -window, observed we had still an hour or two of daylight, and proposed -an excursion to the palace and gardens of the Buen Retiro. Upon entering -the court of the palace, which is surrounded by low buildings, with -plastered fronts, sadly battered by wind and weather, I espied some -venerable figures in caftans and turbans, leaning against a doorway. - -My sparks of orientalism instantly burst into a flame at such a sight: -"Who are those picturesque animals?" said I to our conductor. "Is it -lawful to approach them?" "As often as you please," answered Roxas. -"They belong to the Turkish ambassador, who is lodged, with all his -train, at the Buen Retiro, in the identical apartments once occupied by -Farinelli; where he held his state levees and opera rehearsals; drilling -ministers one day, and tenors and soprani the other: if you have a mind, -we will go up-stairs and examine the whole menagerie." - -No sooner said, no sooner done. I cleared four steps at a leap, to the -great delight of his sublime excellency's pages and attendants, and -entered a saloon spread with the most sumptuous carpets, and perfumed -with the fragrance of the wood of aloes. In a corner of this magnificent -chamber sat the ambassador, Achmet Vassif Effendi, wrapped up in a -pelisse of the most precious sables, playing with a light cane he had in -his hand, and every now and then passing it under the noses of some -tall, handsome slaves, who were standing in a row before him. These -figures, fixed as statues, and to all appearance equally insensible, -neither moved hand nor eye. As I advanced to make my salam to the grand -seignor's representative, who received me with a most gracious nod of -the head; his interpreter announced to what nation I belonged, and my -own individual warm partiality for the Sublime Porte. - -As soon as I had taken my seat in a ponderous fauteuil of figured -velvet, coffee was carried round in cups of most delicate china, with -gold enamelled saucers. Notwithstanding my predilection for the east and -its customs, I could hardly get this beverage down, it was so thick and -bitter; whilst I was making a few wry faces in consequence, a low -murmuring sound, like that of flutes and dulcimers, accompanied by a -sort of tabor, issued from behind a curtain which separated us from -another apartment. There was a melancholy wildness in the melody, and a -continual repetition of the same plaintive cadences, that soothed and -affected me. - -The ambassador kept poring upon my countenance, and appeared much -delighted with the effect his music seemed to produce upon it. He is a -man of considerable talent, deeply skilled in Turkish literature; a -native of Bagdad; rich, munificent, and nobly born, being descended from -the house of Barmek; gracious in his address, smooth and plausible in -his elocution; but not without something like a spark of despotism in a -corner of his eye. Now and then I fancied that the recollection of -having recommended the bow-string, and certain doubts whether he might -not one day or other be complimented with it in his turn, passed across -his venerable and interesting physiognomy. - -My eager questions about Bagdad, the tomb of Zobeida, the vestiges of -the Dhar al Khalifat, or palace of the Abbassides, seemed to excite a -thousand remembrances which gave him pleasure; and when I added a few -quotations from some of his favourite authors, particularly Mesihi, he -became so flowingly communicative, that a shrewd dapper Greek, called -Timoni, who acted as his most confidential interpreter, could hardly -keep pace with him. - -Had not the hour of prayer arrived, our conversation might have lasted -till midnight. Rising up with much stateliness, he extended his arms to -bid me a good evening, and was assisted along by two good-looking -Georgian pages, to an adjoining chamber, where his secretaries, -dragoman, and attendants, were all assembled to perform their devotions, -each on his little carpet, as if in a mosque; and it was not unedifying -to witness the solemnity and abstractedness with which these devotions -were performed. - - - - -LETTER IX. - - The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The - Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.--The Theatre.--A highly - popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their glory. - - -Sunday, Dec. 16th, 1787. - -The kind, indefatigable Roxas came to conduct us to the Museum and -Academy of Arts. It consists of seven or eight apartments, with cases -all around them, in a plain, good style; the objects clearly arranged, -and exposed to view in a very intelligible manner. There is a vast -collection of minerals, corals, madrepores, and stalactites, from all -the grottoes in the universe; and curious specimens of virgin-gold and -silver. Amongst the latter, a lump weighing seventy pounds, which was -shivered off an enormous mass by a master miner, who, after dining on -it, with twelve or thirteen persons, hacked it to pieces, and -distributed the fragments amongst his guests. - -What pleased me most was a collection of Peruvian vases; a polished -stone, which served the Incas for a mirror; and a linen mantle, which -formerly adorned their copper-coloured shoulders, as finely woven as a -shawl, and flowered in very nearly a similar manner, the colours as -fresh and vivid as if new. - -In the apartments of the academy is a most valuable collection of casts -after the serene and graceful antique, and several fierce, obtrusive -daubings by modern Spanish artists. - -I found our acute, intelligent charg-d'affaires'[26] card lying on my -table when I got home, and a great many more, of equal whiteness; such a -sight chills me like a fall of snow, for I think of the cold idleness of -going about day after day dropping little bits of pasteboard in return. -Verdeil and I dined tte--tte, planning schemes how to escape formal -fussifications. No easy matter, I suspect, if I may judge from -appearances. - -Our repast and our council over, we hurried to the Prado, where a -brilliant string of equipages was moving along in two files. In the -middle paraded the state coaches of the royal family, containing their -own precious selves, and their wonted accompaniment of bedchamber lords -and ladies, duly bedizened. It was a gay spectacle; the music of the -Swiss guards playing, and the evening sun shining bright on their showy -uniforms. The botanic garden is separated from the walk by magnificent -railings and pilasters, placed at regular distances, crowned with vases -of aloes and yuccas. The verdure and fountains of this vast enclosure, -terminated by a range of columned conservatories, with an entrance of -very majestic architecture, has a delightful and striking effect. - -From the Prado I drove to the Portuguese ambassador's, who is laid up -with a sore toe. Three diplomatic animals, two males and one female, -were nursing and comforting him. He is most supremely dull, and so are -his comforters. One of them in particular, who shall be nameless, quite -asinine. - -The little sympathy I feel for creatures of this genus, made me shorten -my visit as much as I decently could, and return home to take up Roxas, -who was waiting to accompany us to the Spanish theatre. They were acting -the Barber of Seville, with Paesiello's music, and singing better than -at the opera. The entertainment ended with a sort of intermez, very -characteristic of Spanish manners in low life; in which were introduced -seguidillas. One of the dancers, a young fellow, smartly dressed as a -maxo, so enraptured the audience, that they made him repeat his dance -four times over; a French dancing-master would have absolutely shuddered -at the manner in which he turned in his knees. The women sit by -themselves in a gallery as dingy as limbo, wrapped up in their white -mantillas, and looking like spectres. I never heard anything like the -vociferation with which the pit called out for the seguidillas, nor the -frantic, deafening applause they bestowed on their favourite dancer. - -The play ended at eight, and we came back to tea by our fireside. - - - - -LETTER X. - - Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal - convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence - of the choir.--Charles the Fifth's organ.--Crucifix by - Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Luca Giordano.--Extent and - intricacy of the stupendous edifice. - - -Thursday, Dec. 19th, 1787. - -I hate being roused out of bed by candlelight on a sharp wintry morning; -but as I had fixed to-day for visiting the Escurial, and had stationed -three relays on the road, in order to perform the journey expeditiously, -I thought myself obliged to carry my plan into execution. - -The weather was cold and threatening, the sky red and deeply coloured. -Roxas was to be of our party, so we drove to his brother, the Marquis of -Villanueva's, to take him up. He is one of the best-natured and most -friendly of human beings, and I would not have gone without him upon -any account; though in general I abhor turning and twisting about a town -in search of any body, let its soul be never so transcendent. - -It was past eight before we issued out of the gates of Madrid, and -rattled along an avenue on the banks of the Mananares full gallop, -which brought us to the Casa del Campo, one of the king's palaces, -wrapped up in groves and thickets. We continued a mile or two by the -wall of this enclosure, and leaving La Sarsuela, another royal villa, -surrounded by shrubby hillocks, on the right, traversed three or four -leagues of a wild, naked country, and, after ascending several -considerable eminences, the sun broke out, the clouds partially rolled -away, and we discovered the white buildings of this far-famed monastery, -with its dome and towers detaching themselves from the bold back-ground -of a lofty, irregular mountain. - -We were now about a league off: the country wore a better aspect than -near Madrid. To the right and left of the road, which is of a noble -width, and perfectly well made, lie extensive parks of greensward, -scattered over with fragments of rock and stumps of oak and ash-trees. -Numerous herds of deer were standing stock-still, quietly lifting up -their innocent noses, and looking us full in the face with their -beautiful eyes, secure of remaining unmolested, for the King never -permits a gun to be discharged in these enclosures. - -The Escurial, though overhung by melancholy mountains, is placed itself -on a very considerable eminence, up which we were full half an hour -toiling, the late rains having washed this part of the road into utter -confusion. There is something most severely impressive in the faade of -this regal convent, which, like the palace of Persepolis, is -overshadowed by the adjoining mountain; nor did I pass through a vaulted -cloister into the court before the church, solid as if hewn out of a -rock, without experiencing a sort of shudder, to which no doubt the -vivid recollection of the black and blood-stained days of our gloomy -queen Mary's husband not slightly contributed. The sun being again -overcast, the porches of the church, surmounted by grim statues, -appeared so dark and cavern-like, that I thought myself about to enter a -subterraneous temple set apart for the service of some mysterious and -terrible religion. And when I saw the high altar, in all its pomp of -jasper-steps, ranks of columns one above the other, and paintings -filling up every interstice, full before me, I felt completely awed. - -The sides of the recess, in which this imposing pile is placed, are -formed by lofty chapels, almost entirely occupied by catafalques of gilt -enamelled bronze. Here, with their crowns and sceptres humbly prostrate -at their feet, bare-headed and unhelmed, kneel the figures, large as -life, of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and his imperious son, the -second Philip, accompanied by those of their unhappy consorts and -ill-fated children. My sensations of dread and dreariness were not -diminished upon finding myself alone in such company; for Roxas had left -me to deliver some letters to his right reverence the prior, which were -to open to us all the arcana of this terrific edifice, at once a temple, -a palace, a convent, and a tomb. - -Presently my amiable friend returned, and with him a tall old monk, with -an ash-coloured forbidding countenance, and staring eyes, the expression -of which was the farthest removed possible from anything like -cordiality. This was the mystagogue of the place--the prior _in propria -persona_, the representative of St. Jerome, as far as this monastery and -its domain was concerned, and a disciplinarian of celebrated rigidness. -He began examining me from head to foot, and, after what I thought -rather a strange scrutiny, asked me in broad Spanish what I wished -particularly to see. Then turning to Roxas, said loud enough for me to -hear him, "He is very young; does he understand what I say to him? But, -as I am peremptorily commanded to show him about, I suppose I must -comply, though I am quite unused to the office of explaining our -curiosities. However, if it must be, it must; so let us begin, and not -dally. I have no time to spare, you well know, and have quite enough to -do in the choir and the convent." - -After this not very gracious exordium, we set forth on our tour. First -we visited some apartments with vaulted roofs, painted in arabesque, in -the finest style of the sixteenth century; and then a vast hall, which -had been used for the celebration of mass, whilst the great church was -building, where I saw the Perla in all its purity, the most -delicately-finished work of Raphael, the Pesce, with its divine angel, -graceful infant; and devout young Tobit, breathing the very soul of -pious, unaffected simplicity. My attention was next attracted by that -most profoundly pathetic of pictures, Jacob weeping over the bloody -garment of his son; the loftiest proof in existence of the extraordinary -powers of Velasquez in the noblest work of art. - -These three pictures so absorbed my admiration, that I had little left -for a host of glorious performances by Titian and the highest masters, -which cover the plain, massive walls of these conventual rooms with a -paradise of glowing colours; so I passed along almost as rapidly as my -grumbling cicerone could desire, and followed him up several flights of -stairs, and through many and many an arched passage and vestibule, all -of the sternest doric, into the choir, which is placed over the grand -western entrance, right opposite, at the distance of more than two -hundred feet, to the high altar and its solemn accompaniments. No regal -chamber I ever beheld can be compared, in point of sober harmonious -majesty, to this apartment, which looks more as if it belonged to a -palace than to a church. The series of stalls, designed in a severer -taste than was common in the sixteenth century, are carved out of the -most precious woods the Indies could furnish. At the extremity of this -striking perspective of onyx-coloured seats, columns, and canopies, -appears suspended upon a black velvet pall that revered image of the -crucified Saviour, formed of the purest ivory, which Cellini seems to -have sculptured in moments of devout rapture and inspiration. It is by -far his finest work; his Perseus, at Florence, is tame and laboured in -comparison. - -In a long narrow corridor which runs behind the stalls, panelled all -over like an inlaid cabinet, I was shown a beautiful little organ, in a -richly chased silver case, which accompanied Charles the Fifth in his -African expedition, and must often have gently beguiled the cares of -empire, for he played on it, tradition says, almost every evening. That -it is worth playing upon even now I can safely vouch, for I never -touched any instrument with a tone of more delicious sweetness; and -touch it I did, though my austere conductor, the sour-visaged prior, -looked doubly forbidding on the occasion. - -The stalls I have just mentioned are much less ornamented than those I -have seen in Pavia, and many other monasteries; the ceiling of this -noblest of choirs, displays the utmost exuberance of decoration--the -richest and most gorgeous of spectacles, the heavens and all the powers -therein. Imagination can scarcely conceive the pomp and prodigality of -pencil with which Luca Giordano has treated this subject, and filled -every corner of the vast space it covers with well-rounded forms, that -seem actually starting from the glowing clouds with which they are -environed. - -"Is not this fine?" said the monk; "you can have nothing like it in your -country. And now be pleased to move forward, for the day is wasting, and -you will have little time left to examine our inestimable relics, and -the jewelled shrines in which they are deposited." - -We went down from the choir, I can scarcely tell whither, such is the -extent and intricacy of this stupendous edifice. We passed, I believe, -through some of the lateral chapels at the great church, into several -quadrangles, one in particular, with a fountain under a cupola in the -centre, surrounded by doric arcades, equal in justness of proportion and -architectural terseness to Palladio's court in the convent of S. Giorgio -Maggiore. - - - - -LETTER XI. - - Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from the - Archangel Gabriel's wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy - cloisters.--Sepulchral cave.--River of death.--The regal - sarcophagi. - - -My lord the prior, not favouring a prolonged survey, I reluctantly left -this beautiful court, and was led into a low gallery, roofed and -wainscoted with cedar, lined on both sides by ranges of small doors of -different-coloured Brazil-wood, looking in appearance, at least, as -solid as marble. Four sacristans, and as many lay-brothers, with large -lighted flambeaux of yellow wax in their hands, and who, by the by, -never quitted us more the remainder of our peregrinations, stood silent -as death, ready to unlock those mysterious entrances. - -The first they opened exhibited a buffet, or _credence_, three stories -high, set out with many a row of grinning skulls, looking as pretty as -gold and diamonds could make them; the second, every possible and -impossible variety of odds and ends, culled from the carcasses of -martyrs; the third, enormous ebony presses, the secrets of which I -begged for pity's sake might not be intruded upon for my recreation, as -I began to be heartily wearied of sightseeing; but when my conductors -opened the fourth mysterious door, I absolutely shrank back, almost -sickened by a perfume of musk and ambergris. - -A spacious vault was now disclosed to me--one noble arch, richly -panelled: had the pavement of this strange-looking chamber been strewn -with saffron, I should have thought myself transported to the enchanted -courser's forbidden stable we read of in the tale of the Three -Calenders. - -The prior, who is not easily pleased, seemed to have suspicions that the -seriousness of my demeanour was not entirely orthodox; I overheard him -saying to Roxas, "Shall I show him the Angel's feather? you know we do -not display this our most-valued, incomparable relic to everybody, nor -unless upon special occasions."--"The occasion is sufficiently -special," answered my partial friend; "the letters I brought to you are -your warrant, and I beseech your reverence to let us look at this gift -of heaven, which I am extremely anxious myself to adore and venerate." - -Forth stalked the prior, and drawing out from a remarkably large cabinet -an equally capacious sliding shelf--(the source, I conjecture, of the -potent odour I complained of)--displayed lying stretched out upon a -quilted silken mattress, the most glorious specimen of plumage ever -beheld in terrestrial regions--a feather from the wing of the Archangel -Gabriel, full three feet long, and of a blushing hue more soft and -delicate than that of the loveliest rose. I longed to ask at what -precise moment this treasure beyond price had been dropped--whether from -the air--on the open ground, or within the walls of the humble tenement -at Nazareth; but I repressed all questions of an indiscreet -tendency--the why and wherefore, the when and how, for what and to whom -such a palpable manifestation of archangelic beauty and wingedness had -been vouchsafed. - -We all knelt in silence, and when we rose up after the holy feather had -been again deposited in its perfumed lurking-place, I fancied the prior -looked doubly suspicious, and uttered a sort of _humph_ very doggedly; -nor did his ill-humour evaporate upon my desiring to be conducted to the -library. "It is too late for you to see the precious books and -miniatures by daylight," replied the crusty old monk, "and you would not -surely have me run the risk of dropping wax upon them. No, no, another -time, another time, when you come earlier. For the present, let us visit -the tomb of the catholic kings; there, our flambeaux will be of service -without doing injury." - -He led the way through a labyrinth of cloisters, gloomy as the grave; -till ordering a grated door to be thrown open, the light of our -flambeaux fell upon a flight of most beautiful marble steps, polished as -a mirror, leading down between walls of the rarest jaspers to a portal -of no great size, but enriched with balusters of rich bronze, sculptured -architraves, and tablets of inscriptions, in a style of the greatest -magnificence. - -As I descended the steps, a gurgling sound, like that of a rivulet, -caught my ear. "What means this?" said I. "It means," answered the monk, -"that the sepulchral cave on the left of the stairs, where repose the -bodies of many of our queens and infantas, is properly ventilated, -running water being excellent for that purpose." I went on, not lulled -by these rippling murmurs, but chilled when I reflected through what -precincts flows this river of death. - -Arrived at the bottom of the stairs, we passed through the portal just -mentioned, and entered a circular saloon, not more than five-and-thirty -feet in diameter, characterized by extreme elegance, not stern -solemnity. The regal sarcophagi, rich in golden ornaments, ranged one -above the other, forming panels of the most decorative kind; the lustre -of exquisitely sculptured bronze, the pavement of mottled alabaster; in -short, this graceful dome, covered with scrolls of the most delicate -foliage, appeared to the eye of my imagination more like a subterranean -boudoir, prepared by some gallant young magician for the reception of an -enchanted and enchanting princess, than a temple consecrated to the -king of terrors. - -My conductor's visage growing longer and longer every minute, and -looking pretty nearly as grim as that of the last-mentioned sovereign, I -whispered Roxas it was full time to take our leave; which we did -immediately after my intimating that express desire, to the no small -satisfaction, I am perfectly convinced, of my lord the prior. - -Cold and hungry, for we had not been offered a morsel of refreshment, we -repaired to a warm opulent-looking habitation belonging to one of my -kind companion's most particular friends, a much favoured attendant of -his catholic Majesty's; here we were received with open arms and -generous hospitality; and it grew pitch dark before we quitted this -comfortable shelter from the piercing winds, which blow almost -perpetually over the Escurial, and returned to Madrid. - - - - -LETTER XII. - - A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco's.--Curious assemblage in his - long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern - dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini in - despair.--Solecisms in dancing. - - -The mules galloped back at so rapid a rate, and their conductors bawled -and screamed so lustily to encourage their exertions, that half my -recollections of the Escurial were whirled out of my head before I -reached my old quarters at the Cruz de Malta. I had quite forgotten, -amongst other things, that I had actually accepted a most pressing -invitation to a concert and ball at Pacheco's this very evening. - -Pacheco is an old Portuguese, immensely rich, and who had been immensely -favoured in the days of his youth by his august countrywoman, Queen -Barbara, the consort of Ferdinand the sixth, and the patroness of -Farinelli. He is uncle to madame Arriaga, her most Faithful Majesty's -most faithful and favourite attendant, and a person of such worship, -that courtiers, ministers, and prelates, are too happy to congregate at -his house, whenever he takes it into his head to allow them an -opportunity. - -Though I had been half petrified by my cold ramble through the Escurial, -under the prior's still more chilling auspices, I had quite life enough -left to obey Pacheco's summons with alacrity; and as I expected to dance -a great deal, I put on my dancing-dress, that of a maxo, with ties and -tags, and trimmings and buttons, redecilla and all. - -I must confess, however, that I felt rather abashed and disappointed, -upon entering Pacheco's long pompous gallery, to find myself in the -midst of diplomatic and ministerial personages, assembled in stiff gala -to do honour to Achmet Vassif, whose musicians were seated on the carpet -howling forth a deplorable ditty, composed, as the Armenian interpreter -informed me, by one of the most impassioned and lovesick dilettantes of -the east; no strain I ever heard was half so lugubrious, not even that -of a dog baying the moon, or owls making their complaints to it. - -I could not help telling the ambassador, without the smallest -circumlocution, that his tabor and pipe people I heard the other day -accompanying a dulcimer, were far more worthy of praise than his vocal -attendants; but this truth, like most others, did not exactly please; -and I fear my reputation for musical connoisseurship was completely -forfeited in his excellency's estimation, for he looked a little glum -upon the occasion. What surprised me most, after all, was the patience -with which the whole assembly listened for full three-quarters of an -hour to these languorous wailings. - -Amongst the audience, none bore the severe infliction with a greater -degree of evangelical resignation than the grand inquisitor and the -archbishop of Toledo; both these prelates have not only the look, but -the character of beneficence, which promises a truce to the faggot and -pitch-barrel; the expression of the archbishop's countenance in -particular is most engagingly mild and pleasing. He came up to me -without the least reserve or formality, and taking me by the hand, said -with a cheerful smile, "I see you are equipped for a dance, and have -adopted our fashion; we all long to judge whether an Englishman can -enter (as I hear you can) into the extravagant spirit of our national -dances. I will speak to Pacheco, and desire him to form a diversion in -your favour, by calling off these doleful minstrels to the rinfresco -prepared for them." And so he did, and there was an end of the concert, -to my infinite joy, and the no less delight of the villa mayors and -sabbatinis, with whom, without a moment's farther delay, I sprang forth -in a bolero. - -Down came all the Spanish musicians from their formal orchestra, too -happy to escape its trammels; away went the foreign regulars, taking -vehement pinches of snuff, with the most unequivocal expressions of -anger and indignation. A circle was soon formed, a host of guitars put -in immediate requisition, and never did I hear such wild, extravagant, -passionate modulations. - -Boccharini, who led and presided over the Duchess of Ossuna's concerts, -and who had been lent to Pacheco as a special favour, witnessed these -most original deviations from all established musical rule with the -utmost contempt and dismay. He said to me in a loud whisper, "If _you_ -dance and _they_ play in this ridiculous manner, I shall never be able -to introduce a decent style into our musical world here, which I -flattered myself I was on the very point of doing. What possesses you? -Is it the devil? Who could suppose that a reasonable being, an -Englishman of all others, would have encouraged these inveterate -barbarians in such absurdities. There's a chromatic scream! there's a -passage! We have heard of robbing time; this is murdering it. What! -again! Why, this is worse than a convulsive hiccup, or the last rattle -in the throat of a dying malefactor. Give me the Turkish howlings in -preference; they are not so obtrusive and impudent." - -So saying, he moved off with a semi-seria stride, and we danced on with -redoubled delight and joy. The quicker we moved, the more intrepidly we -stamped with our feet, the more sonorously we snapped our fingers, the -better reconciled the sublime Effendi appeared to be with me. He forgot -my critiques upon his vocal performers: he rose up from his snug -cushion, and nodded his turbaned head, and expressed his delight, not -only by word and gesture, but in a most comfortable orientalish sort of -chuckling. As to the rest of the company, the Spanish part at least, -they were so much animated, that not less than twenty voices accompanied -the bolero with its appropriate words in full chorus, and with a glow of -enthusiasm that inspired my lovely partners and myself with such energy, -that we outdid all our former outdancings. - -"Is it possible," exclaimed an old fandango-fancier of great -notoriety--"is it possible, that a son of the cold north can have learnt -all our rapturous flings and stampings?"--"The French never _could_, or -rather never _would_," observed a Monsieur Gaudin, one of the Duke de la -V----'s secretaries, who was standing by perfectly astounded. - -Who persecute like renegades? who are so virulent against their former -sect as fresh converts to another? This was partly my case; though my -dancing and musical education had been strictly orthodox, according to -the precepts of Mozart and Sacchini, of Vestris and Gardel, I declared -loudly there was no music but Spanish, no dancing but Spanish, no -salvation in either art out of the Spanish pale, and that, compared with -such rapturous melodies, such inspired movements, the rest of Europe -afforded only examples of dullness and insipidity. I would not allow my -former instructors a spark of merit; and at the very moment I was -committing solecisms in good dancing at every step, and stamping and -piaffing like a courser but half-broken in at a mange, I felt and -looked as firmly persuaded of the truth of my impudent assertions as the -greatest bigot of his nonsense in some untried new-fangled superstition. -Success, founded or unfounded, is everything in this world. We too well -know the sad fate of merit. I am more than apt to conjecture we were but -very slightly entitled to any applause; yet the transports we called -forth were as fervid as those the famous Le Pique excited at Naples in -the zenith of his popularity. - -The British and American ministers, who were standing by the whole time, -enjoyed this amusing proof of Spanish fanaticism, in its profane mood, -with all the zest of intelligent and shrewd observers. Pisani, the -Venetian ambassador, inclined decidedly to the southern side of the -question. He was bound, heart and soul, by a variety of silken ties to -the Spanish interest, and had almost forgotten the fascinations of -Venice in those of Andalusia. Consequently I had his vote in my favour. -Not so that of the Duchess of Ossuna, Boccharini's patroness. She said -to me in the plainest language, "You are making the greatest fool of -yourself I ever beheld; and as to those riotous self-taught hoydens, -your partners, I tell you what, they are scarcely worthy to figure in -the third rank at a second-rate theatre. Come along with me, and I will -present you to my mother, the Countess of Benevente, who gives a very -different sort of education to the charming young women she admits to -her court." - -I had heard of this court and its delectabilities, and at the same time -been informed that its throne was a faro-table, to which the initiated -were imperatively expected to become tributaries. The sovereign, old -Benevente, is the most determined hag of her rout-giving, card-playing -species in Europe, of the highest birth, the highest consequence, and -the principal disposer, by long habit and old cortejo-ship, of Florida -Blanca's good graces. - -Notwithstanding the severe regulations against gambling societies, most -severely enforced at Madrid; notwithstanding the prime minister's -morality, and the still higher morality of his royal master, this great -lady's aberrations of every kind are most complaisantly winked at; she -is allowed not only to set up under her own princely roof a refuge for -the desolate, in the most delicate style of Spanish refinement, for the -kind purpose of enchanting all persons sufficiently favoured by fortune -to merit admission to her parties, by every blandishment and -languishment the most seductive eyes of Seville and Cadiz she had -collected together could throw around them; but so sure as the hour of -midnight arrived, and Florida Blanca (who never fails paying his devoirs -to the countess every evening) had made his retiring bow, so sure a -confidential party of illuminati, of unsleeping partners in the -gambling-line, made their appearance, heavily laden with well-stored -caskets. - -Now came the tug of play, and hope, and fear in all their thrilling and -throbbing alternations; but, to say truth, I was so completely jaded and -worn-out that I partook of neither, and was too happy, after losing -almost unconsciously a few dobras, to be allowed to retire; old -Benevente calling out to me, with the croak of a vulture scenting its -prey from afar, _Cavallero Inglez, a maana a la misma hora_. - - - - -LETTER XIII. - - Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, - Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King's sleeping - apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of the - Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don Gabriel and the - Infanta.--Her Royal Highness's affecting recollections of - home.--Head-quarters of Masserano.--Exhibition of national manners - there. - - -Monday, 24th Dec. 1787. - -I shall have the megrims for want of exercise, like my friend Achmet -Vassif, if I don't alter my way of life. This morning I only took a -listless saunter in the Prado, and returned early to dinner, with a very -slight provision of fresh air in my lungs. Roxas was with me, hurrying -me out of all appetite that I might see the palace by daylight; and so -to the palace we went, and it was luckily a bright ruddy afternoon, the -sun gilding a grand confusion of mountainous clouds, and chequering the -wild extent of country between Madrid and the Escurial with powerful -effects of light and shade. - -I cannot praise the front of the palace very warmly. In the centre of -the edifice starts up a whimsical sort of turret, with gilt bells, the -vilest ornament that could possibly have been imagined. The interior -court is of pure and classic architecture, and the great staircase so -spacious and well-contrived that you arrive almost imperceptibly at the -portal of the guard-chamber. Every door-case and window recess of this -magnificent edifice gleams with the richest polished marbles: the -immense and fortress-like thickness of the walls, and double panes of -the strongest glass, exclude the keen blasts which range almost -uninterrupted over the wide plains of Castile, and preserve an admirable -temperature throughout the whole extent of these royal rooms, the -grandeur, and at the same time comfort, of which cannot possibly be -exceeded. - -The king, the prince of Asturias, and the chief part of their -attendants, were all absent hunting in the park of the Escurial; but the -reposteros, or curtain-drawers of the palace, having received particular -orders for my admittance, I enjoyed the entire liberty of wandering -about unrestrained and unmolested. Roxas having left me to join a gay -party of the royal body-guard in Masserano's apartments, I remained in -total solitude, surrounded by the pure unsullied works of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters, fresh as the flowers of a -parterre in early morning, and many of them as beautiful in point of -hues. - -Not a door being closed, I penetrated through the chamber of the throne -even into the old king's sleeping-apartment, which, unlike the dormitory -of most of his subjects, is remarkable for extreme neatness. A book of -pious orisons, with engravings by Spanish artists, and containing, -amongst other prayers in different languages, one adapted to the -exclusive use of majesty, _Regi solo proprius_, was lying on his -praying-desk; and at the head of the richly-canopied, but uncurtained -bed, I noticed with much delight an enamelled tablet by Mengs, -representing the infant Saviour appearing to Saint Anthony of Padua. - -In this room, as in all the others I passed through, without any -exception, stood cages of gilded wire, of different forms and sizes, -and in every cage a curious exotic bird, in full song, each trying to -out-sing his neighbour. Mingled with these warblings was heard at -certain intervals the low chime of musical clocks, stealing upon the ear -like the tones of harmonic glasses. No other sound broke in any degree -the general stillness, except, indeed, the almost inaudible footsteps of -several aged domestics, in court-dresses of the cut and fashion -prevalent in the days of the king's mother, Elizabeth Farnese, gliding -along quietly and cautiously to open the cages, and offer their inmates -such dainties as highly-educated birds are taught to relish. Much -fluttering and cowering down ensued in consequence of these attentions, -and much rubbing of bills and scratching of poles on my part, as well as -on that of the smiling old gentlemen. - -As soon as the ceremony of pampering these feathered favourites had been -most affectionately performed, I availed myself of the light reflected -from a clear sun-set to examine the pictures, chiefly of a religious -cast, with which these stately apartments are tapestried; particularly -the Madonna del Spasimo, that vivid representation of the blessed -Virgin's maternal agony, when her divine son, fainting under the -burthen of the cross, approached to ascend the mount of torture, and -complete the awful mystery of redemption. Raphael never attained in any -other of his works such solemn depth of colour, such majesty of -character, as in this triumph of his art. "Never was sorrow like unto -the sorrow" he has depicted in the Virgin's countenance and attitude; -never was the expression of a sublime and God-like calm in the midst of -acute suffering conveyed more closely home to the human heart than in -the face of Christ. - -I stood fixed in the contemplation of this holy vision--for such I -almost fancied it to be--till the approaching shadows of night had -overspread every recess of these vast apartments: still I kept intensely -gazing upon the picture. I knew it was time to retire,--still I gazed -on. I was aware that Roxas had been long expecting me in Masserano's -apartments,--still I could not snatch myself away; the Virgin mother -with her outstretched arms still haunted me. The song of the birds had -ceased, as well as the soft diapason of the self-playing organs;--all -was hushed, all tranquil. I departed at length with the languid -unwillingness of an enthusiast exhausted by the intensity of his -feelings and loth to arouse himself from the bosom of grateful -illusions. - -Just as I reached the portal of the great stairs, whom should I meet but -Noronha advancing towards me with a hurried step. "Where are you going -so fast?" said he to me, "and where have you been staying so long? I -have been sending repeatedly after you to no purpose; you must come with -me immediately to the Infanta and Don Gabriel, they want to ask you a -thousand questions about the Ajuda: the letters you brought them from -Marialva, and the archbishop in particular, have, I suppose, inspired -that wish; and as royal wishes, you know, cannot be too speedily -gratified, you must kiss their hands this very evening. I am to be your -introductor."--"What!" said I, "in this unceremonious dress?"--"Yes," -said the ambassador, "I have heard that you are not a pattern of -correctness in these matters." I wished to have been one in this -instance. At this particular moment I was in no trim exteriorly or -interiorly for courtly introductions. I thought of nothing but birds and -pictures, and had much rather have been presented to a cockatoo than to -the greatest monarch in Christendom. - -However, I put on the best face I was able, and we proceeded together -very placidly to that part of the palace assigned to Don Gabriel and his -blooming bride. The doors of a coved ante-chamber flew open, and after -passing through an enfilade of saloons peopled with ladies-in-waiting -and pages, (some mere children,) we entered a lofty chamber hung with -white satin, formed into compartments by a rich embroidery of gold and -colours, and illuminated by a lustre of rock crystal. - -At the farther extremity of the apartment, stood the Infant Don Gabriel, -leaning against a table covered with velvet, on which I observed a case -of large golden antique medals he was in the very act of contemplating: -the Infanta was seated near. She rose up most graciously to hold out a -beautiful hand, which I kissed with unfeigned fervour: her countenance -is most prepossessing; the same florid complexion, handsome features, -and open exhilarating smile which distinguishes her brother the Prince -of Brazil. - -"Ah," said her royal highness with great earnestness, "you have then -lately seen my dear mother, and walked perhaps in the little garden I -was so fond of; did you notice the fine flowers that grow there? -particularly the blue carnation; we have not such flowers at Madrid; -this climate is not like that of Portugal, nor are our views so -pleasant; I miss the azure Tagus, and your ships continually sailing up -it; but when you write to your friend Marialva and the archbishop, tell -them, I possess what no other prospect upon earth can equal, the smiles -of an adored husband." - -The Infant now approached towards me with a look of courteous benignity -that reminded me strongly of the Bourbons, nor could I trace in his -frank kindly manner the least leaven of Austrian hauteur or Spanish -starchness. After inquiring somewhat facetiously how the Duke d'Alafoens -and the Portuguese academicians proceeded on their road to the temple of -fame, he asked me whether our universities continued to be the favoured -abode of classical attainments, and if the books they printed were as -correct and as handsome now as in the days of the Stuarts; adding that -his private collection contained some copies which had formerly -belonged to the celebrated Count of Oxford. This was far too good an -opportunity of putting in a word to the praise and glory of his own -famous translation of Sallust, to be neglected; so I expressed -everything he could have wished to hear upon the subject. - -"You are very good," observed his royal highness; "but to tell you the -truth, it was hard work for me. I began it, and so I went on, and lost -many a day's wholesome exercise in our parks and forests: however, such -as it is, I performed my task without any assistance, though you may -perhaps have heard the contrary." - -It was now Noronha's turn to begin complimenting, which he did with all -the high court mellifluence of an accredited family ambassador: whether, -indeed, the Infant received as gospel all the fine things that were said -to him I won't answer, but he looked even kinder and more gracious than -at our first entrance. The Infanta recurred again and again to the -subject of the Ajuda, and appeared so visibly affected that she awakened -all my sympathies; for I, too, had left those behind me on the banks of -the Tagus for whom I felt a fond and indelible regard. As we were -making our retiring bows, I saw tears gathering in her eyes, whilst she -kept gracefully waving her hand to bid us a happy night. - -The impressions I received from this interview were not of a nature to -allow my enjoying with much vivaciousness the next scene to which I was -transported--the head-quarters of Masserano, whom I found in unusually -high spirits surrounded by a train of gay young officers, rapping out -the rankest Castilian oaths, quaffing their flowing cups of champagne -and val de peas, and playing off upon each other, not exactly the most -decorous specimens of practical wit. - -Roxas looked rather abashed at so unrefined an exhibition of national -manners: Noronha had taken good care to keep aloof, and I regretted not -having followed his example. - - - - -LETTER XIV. - - A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with him.--History of - a Ghost-seer. - - -It is not at every corner of life that we stumble upon an intrinsically -singular character: to-day however, at Noronha's, I fell in with a Saxon -count,[27] who justly answers to that description. This man is not only -thoroughly imbued with the theoretical mysticism of the German school, -but has most firmly persuaded himself, and hundreds besides, that he -holds converse with the souls of the departed. Though most impressive -and even extravagant upon this subject, when started, he proves himself -a man of singular judgment upon most others, is a good geometrician, an -able chymist, a mineralogist of no ordinary proficiency, and has made -discoveries in the art of smelting metals, which have been turned -already to useful purpose. Yet nothing can beat out of this cool -reflective head, that magical operations may be performed to evident -effect, and the devil most positively evocated. - -I thought, at first sight, there was a something uncouth and ghostly in -his appearance, that promised strange communications; he has a careworn -look, a countenance often convulsed with apparently painful twitches, -and a lofty skull, set off with bristling hair, powdered as white as -Caucasus. - -Notwithstanding I by no means courted his acquaintance, he was resolved -to make up to me, and dissipate by the smoothest address he could -assume, any prejudices his uncommon cast of features might have -inspired. Drawing his chair close to mine, whilst Noronha and his party -were busily engaged at voltarete, he tried to allure my attention by -throwing out hints of the wonders within reach of a person born under -the smile of certain constellations: that I was the person he meant to -insinuate, I have little doubt. Having heard that fortune had conferred -upon me some few of her golden gifts, he thought, perhaps, that I might -be _fused_ to advantage, like any other lump of the precious metals. Be -his motives what they may, he certainly took as many pains to wind -himself into my good opinion as if I had actually been the prime -favourite of a planet, or a distant cousin by some diabolical -intermarriage, in the style of one of the Plantagenet matches, of old -Beelzebub himself. - -After a good deal of conversation upon different subjects, chiefly of a -sombrous nature, happening to ask him if he had known Schrffer, the -most renowned ghost-seer in all Germany,--"Intimately well," was his -reply; "a bold young man, not so free, alas! from sensual taint as the -awful career he had engaged in demanded,--he rushed upon danger -unprepared, at an unhallowed moment--his fate was terrible. I passed a -week with him not six months before he disappeared in the frightful -manner you have heard of; it was a week of mental toil and suffering, of -fasts and privations of various natures, and of sights sufficiently -appalling to drive back the whole current of the blood from the heart. -It was at this period that, returning one dark and stormy night from -trying experiments upon living animals, more excruciating than any the -keenest anatomist ever perpetrated, I found lying upon my chair, coiled -up in a circle like the symbol of eternity, an enormous snake of a -deadly lead colour; it neither hissed nor moved for several minutes: -during this pause, whilst I remained aghast looking full upon it, a -voice more like the whisper of trees than any sound of human utterance, -articulated certain words, which I have retained, and used to powerful -effect in moments of peril and extreme urgency." - -I shall not easily forget the strange inquisitive look he gave me whilst -making this still stranger communication; he saw my curiosity was -excited, and flattered himself he had made upon me the impression he -meditated; but when I asked, with the tone of careless levity, what -became of the snake on the cushion, after the voice had ceased, he shook -his white locks somewhat angrily, and croaked forth with a formidable -German accent, "Ask no more--ask no more--you are not in a disposition -at present sufficiently pure and serious to comprehend what I _might_ -disclose. Ask no more."--For this time at least I most implicitly obeyed -him. - -Promising to call upon me and continue our conversation any day or hour -I might choose to appoint, he glided off so imperceptibly, that had I -been a little more persuaded of the possibility of supernatural -occurrences, I might have believed he had actually vanished. "A good -riddance," said Noronha; "I don't half like that man, nor can I make out -why Florida Blanca is so gracious to him."--"I rather suspect he is a -spy upon us all," observed the Sardinian ambassadress, who made one of -the voltarete party; "and though he guessed right about the winning card -last night at the Countess of Benevente's, I am determined not to invite -him to dinner again in a hurry." - - - - -LETTER XV. - - Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an - infidel in the German style.--Mass in the chapel of the - Virgin.--The Duchess of Alba's villa.--Destruction by a young - French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French ambassador's - ball.--Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi. - - -Sunday, Jan. 13th. - -Kauffman[28] accompanied me to the Prado this morning, where we met -Madame Bendicho and her faithful Expilly, (a famous tactician in war or -peace,) who told me that somebody I thought particularly interesting was -not far off. This intelligence imparted to me such animation, that -Kauffman was obliged to take long strides to equal my pace. I traversed -the whole Prado without meeting the object of my pursuit, and found -myself almost unconsciously in the court before the ugly front of the -church of Atocha. A tide of devotees carried us into the chapel of the -Virgin, which is hung round with trophies, and ex-voto's, legs, arms, -and fingers, in wax and plaster. - -Kauffman is three parts an infidel in the German style, but I advised -him to kneel with something like Castilian solemnity, and hear out a -mass which was none of the shortest, the priest being old, and much -given to the wiping and adjusting of spectacles, a pair of which, -uncommonly large and lustrous, I thought he would never have succeeded -in fitting to his nose. - -We happened to kneel under the shade of some banners which the British -lion was simple enough to let slip out of his paws during the last war. -The colours of fort St. Philip dangled immediately above my head. -Amongst the crowd of Our Lady's worshippers I espied one of the gayest -of my ball-room acquaintances, the young Duke of Arion, looking like a -strayed sheep, and smiting his breast most piteously. - -A tiresome salve regina being ended, I measured back my steps to the -Prado, and at length discovered the person of all others I wished most -to see, strictly guarded by mamma. I accompanied them to their door, -and returned loiteringly and lingeringly home, where I found Infantado, -who had been waiting for me above half an hour. With him I rode out on -the Toledo road to see a pompous bridge, or rather viaduct; for the -river it spans, even in this season, is scarcely copious enough to turn -the model of a mill-wheel, much less the reality. - -From this spot we went to a villa lately purchased by the Duchess of -Alba, and which, I was told, Rubens had once inhabited. True enough, we -found a conceited young French artist in the arabesque and cupid line, -busily employed in pouncing out the last memorials in this spot of that -great painter; reminiscences of favourite pictures he had thrown off in -fresco, upon what appeared a rich crimson damask ground. Yes, I -witnessed this vandalish operation, and saw large flakes of stucco -imprinted with the touches of Rubens fall upon the floor, and heard the -wretch who was perpetrating the irreparable act sing, "Veillons mes -soeurs, veillons encorrre," with a strong Parisian accent, all the -while he was slashing away. - -My sweet temper was so much ruffled by this spectacle, that I begged to -be excused any further excursion, and returned home to dress and -compose myself, while Infantado went back to his palace. I soon joined -him, having been invited to dine with his right virtuous and estimable -papa. Thank heaven the rage for Frenchified decoration has not yet -reached this plain but princely abode, which remains in noble Castilian -simplicity, with all its famed pictures untouched and uncontaminated. - -As soon as the old duke had retired to his evening's devotions, we -hurried to the French ambassador's ball, where I met fewer saints than -sinners, and saw nothing particularly edifying, except the semi-royal -race of the Medina Celis dancing "high and disposedly." Cogolhudo, the -heir-apparent of this great house, is a good-natured, busy personage, -but his illustrious consort, who has been recently appointed to the -important office of Camerara mayor, or mistress of the robes to the -image of Our Lady of La Soledad, is a great deal less kindly and -affable.[29] - - - - -LETTER XVI. - - Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.--Stroll to the gardens of the - Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d'Aranda.--State of - Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d'Aranda's - toilet.--Assembly at the house of Madame Badaan.--Cortejos off - duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A curious group.--A dance. - - -Sunday, 23rd. - -Every morning I have the pleasure of supplying the Grand Signior's -representative with rolls and brioche, baked at home for my breakfast; -and this very day he came himself in one of the king's lumbering state -coaches, with some of his special favourites, to thank me for these -piping hot attentions. We had a great deal of conversation about the -marvels of London, though he seemed stoutly convinced that in every -respect Islembul exceeded it ten times over. - -As soon as he moved off, I strolled to the gardens of the Buen Retiro, -which contains neither statues nor fountains worth describing. They -cover a vast extent of sandy ground, in which there is no prevailing -upon anything vegetable or animal to thrive, except ostriches, a troop -of which were striding about in high spirits, apparently as much at home -as in their own native parched-up deserts. - -Roxas dined with us, and we went together in the evening to the French -ambassador's, the Duke de la V****. His daughter, a fine young woman of -eighteen or nineteen, is married to the Prince de L****, a smart -stripling, who has scarcely entered his fifteenth year; the ambassador -is no trifling proficient in political intrigue, no common-place twister -and turner in the paths of diplomacy, looks about him with calm and -polished indifference, though full of hazardous schemes and projects; -ever in secret ferment, and a Jesuit to the heart's core. I could not -help noticing his quiet, observing eye--the still eye of a serpent lying -perdue in a cave. In his address and manners he is quite a model of -high-bred ease, without the slightest tincture of pedantry or -affectation. - -Madame la Duchesse is a great deal fonder of fine phrases, which she -does not always reserve for grand occasions. Their son, the Prince de -C***, amused me beyond bounds with his lightning-like flashes of wit and -merriment, at the expense of Madrid and its tertullias. Upon the whole, -I like this family very much, and ardently wish they may like me. - -I could not stay with them so long as I desired, Roxas having promised -to present me to Madame d'Aranda, whose devoted friend and _cortejo_ he -has the consummate pleasure to be. Happy the man who has the good -fortune of being attached by such delicious, though not quite strictly -sacred ties, to so charming a little creature; but in general the state -of cortejo-ism is far from enviable. You are the sworn victim of all the -lady's caprices, and can never move out of the rustle of her black silk -petticoats, or beyond the wave of her fan, without especial permission, -less frequently granted with complacence than refused with asperity. I -imagine she has very good-naturedly given him leave of absence to show -me about this royal village, or else I should think he would hardly -venture to spare me so much of his company. - -We found her sitting _en famille_ with her sister, and two young boys -her brothers, over a silver brazier in a snug interior apartment hung -with a bright valencia satin. She showed me the most pleasing marks of -civility and attention, and ordered her own apartments to be lighted up, -that I might see its magnificent furniture to advantage. The bed, of the -richest blue velvet trimmed with point lace, is beautifully shaped, and -placed in a spacious and deep recess hung round with an immense -profusion of ample curtains. - -I wonder architects and fitters up of apartments do not avail themselves -more frequently of the powers of drapery. Nothing produces so grand and -at the same time so comfortable an effect. The moment I have an -opportunity I will set about constructing a tabernacle, larger than the -one I arranged at Ramalha, and indulge myself in every variety of plait -and fold that can possibly be invented. - -Madame d'Aranda's toilet, designed by Moite the sculptor and executed by -Auguste, is by far the most exquisite _chef-d'oeuvre_ of the kind I -ever saw. Poor thing! she has every exterior delight the pomps and -vanities of the world can give; but she is married to a man old enough -to be her grandfather, and looks as pale and drooping as a narcissus or -lily of the valley would appear if stuck in Abraham's bosom, and -continually breathed upon by that venerable patriarch. - -After passing a delightful hour in what appeared to me an ethereal sort -of fairy-land, we went to a far more earthly abode, that of a Madame -Badaan, who is so obliging as to give immense assemblies once or twice a -week, in rather confined apartments. This small, but convenient -habitation, is no idle or unimportant resort for cortejos off duty, or -in search of novel adventures. Several of these disbanded worthies were -lounging about in the mean time, quite lackadaisically. There was a -blaze of beauty in every corner of the room, sufficient to enchant those -the least given to being enchanted; and there frisked the two little -Sabatinis, half Spanish, half Italian, sporting their neatly turned -ankles; and there sat Madame de Villamayor in all her pride, and her -daughters so full of promise; and the Marchioness of Santa Cruz, with -her dark hair and blue eyes, in all her loveliness. How delighted my -friend, the Effendi, must have been upon entering such a paradise, which -he soon did after we arrived there, followed by his Armenian -interpreter, whom I like better than the Greek, Timoni, with his prying, -squirrelish look, and malicious propensities. - -The ambassador found me out almost immediately, and taking me to an -angle of the apartment, where a well-cushioned divan had been prepared -for his lollification, made me sit down by him whether I would or not. -We were just settled, when a bevy of young tits dressed out in a -fantastic, blowzy style, with sparkling eyes and streaming ribbons, drew -their chairs round us, and began talking a strange lingua-franca, -composed of three or four different languages. We must have formed a -curious group; I was declaiming and gesticulating with all my might, -reciting scraps of Hafiz and Mesihi, whilst the ladies, none of the -tallest, who were seated on low chairs, kept perking up their pretty -little inquisitive faces in the very beard of the stately Moslem, whose -solemn demeanour formed an amusing contrast to their giddy vivacity. - -Madame Badaan and her spouse, the very best people in the world, and the -readiest to afford their company all possible varieties of -accommodation, sent for the most famous band of musicians Madrid could -boast of, and proposed a dance for the entertainment of his bearded -excellency. Accordingly, thirteen or fourteen couples started, and -boleroed and fandangoed away upon a thick carpet for an hour or two, -without intermission. There are scarcely any boarded floors in Madrid, -so the custom of dancing upon rugs is universally established. - - - - -LETTER XVII. - - Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange - medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the - Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by - Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present - reign.--Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna's house.--Apathy - pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. - - -Tuesday, December 1st, 1795. - -It was on a clear bright morning (scarce any frost) that we left a -wretched place called Villatoba, falling into ruins like almost all the -towns and villages I have seen in Spain. The sky was so transparent, so -pearly, and the sunbeams so fresh and reviving, that the country -appeared pleasant in spite of its flatness and aridity. Every tree has -been cut down, and all chance of their being replaced precluded by the -wandering flocks of sheep, goats and swine, which rout, and grout, and -nibble uncontrolled and unmolested. - -At length, after a tedious drive through vast tracts of desolate -country, scarce a house, scarce a shrub, scarce a human being to meet -with, we descended a rapid declivity, and I once more found myself in -the valley of Aranjuez. The avenues of poplar and plane have shot up to -a striking elevation since I saw them last. The planes on the banks of -the Tagus incline most respectfully towards its waters; they are -vigorously luxuriant, although planted only seven years ago, as the -gardener informed me. - -Charles the Fifth's elms in the island-garden close to the palace are -decaying apace. I visited the nine venerable stumps close to a hideous -brick-ruin; the largest measures forty or fifty feet in girth; the roots -are picturesquely fantastic. The fountains, like the shades in which -they are embowered, are rapidly going to decay: the bronze Venus, at the -fountain which takes its name from Don John of Austria, has lost her -arm. - -Notwithstanding the dreariness of the season with all its accompaniment -of dry leaves and faded herbage, this historic garden had still charms; -the air was mild, and the sunbeams played on the Tagus, and many a bird -flitted from spray to spray. Several long alleys of the loftiest elms, -their huge rough trunks mantled with ivy, and their grotesque roots -advancing and receding like grotto-work into the walk, struck me as -singularly pleasing. - -The palace has not been long completed; the additions made by Charles -the Third agree not ill with the original edifice. It is a comfortable, -though not a magnificent abode; walls thick, windows cheerfully glazed -in two panels, neat low chimney-pieces in many of the apartments; few -traces of the days of the Philips; scarce any furniture that bespeak an -ancient family. A flimsy modern style, half Italian, half French, -prevails. Even the pictures are, in point of subjects, preservation, -originality, and masters, as strangely jumbled together as in the -dominions of an auctioneer. This may be accounted for by their being -collected indiscriminately by the present King, whilst prince of -Asturias. Amongst innumerable trash, I noticed a Crucifixion by Mengs; -not overburthened with expression, but finely coloured; the back-ground -and sky most gloomily portentous, and producing a grand effect of light -and shade. The interior of a gothic church, by Peter Neef, so fine, so -clear, so silvery in point of tint, as to reconcile me, (for the moment, -at least,) to this harsh, stiff master; the figures exquisite, the -preservation perfect; no varnish, no retouches. - -A set of twelve small cabinet pictures, touched with admirable spirit by -Teniers, the subjects taken from the Gierusalemme Liberata, treated as -familiarly as if the boozy painter had been still copying his -pot-companions. Armida's palace is a little round summer-house; she -herself, habited like a burgher's frouw in her holiday garments, holds a -Nuremberg-shaped looking-glass up to the broad vulgar face of a boorish -Rinaldo. The fair Naiads, comfortably fat, and most invitingly smirkish, -are naked to be sure, but a pile of furbelowed garments and farthingales -is ostentatiously displayed on the bank of the water; close by a small -table covered with a neat white tablecloth, and garnished with silver -tankards, cold pie, and salvers of custard and jellies. All these vulgar -accessories are finished with scrupulous delicacy. - -Several oratories open into the royal apartments. One set apart for the -Queen is adorned with a very costly, and at the same time beautiful -altar, rich, simple, and majestic; not an ornament is lavished in vain. -Two Corinthian columns of a most beautiful purple and white marble, -sustain a pediment, as highly polished and as richly mottled as any -agate I ever beheld; the capitals are bronze splendidly gilt, so is the -foliage of the consoles supporting the slab which forms the altar. The -design, the materials, the workmanship, are all Spanish, and do the -nation credit. - -The king's oratory is much larger, and not ill-designed; the proportion -is good, about twenty-six by twenty-two, and twenty-four high, besides a -solemn recess for the altar. The walls entirely covered with -fresco-painting; saints, prophets, clouds, and angels, in grand -confusion. The sides of the arch, and all the frame of the altar-piece, -are profusely and solidly gilt. A plinth of jasper, and a skirting about -three feet high, of a light-grey marble, streaked with black, not unlike -the capricious ramifications on mocho-stones, and polished as a mirror, -is continued round the room, so that nothing meets the eye but the rich -gleam of gold, painting, and marble, all blended together in one -glowing tint. The pavement, too, of different Spanish marbles, is a -_chef-d'oeuvre_ of workmanship. I particularly admired the soft -ivory-hue of the white marble, but my conductor allowed it little merit -when compared with that of Italy: I think him mistaken in this remark, -and heartily wish him so in many others. - -This conductor, an old snuffling domestic of the late king, was rather -forward in making his remarks upon times present. A sort of Piedmontese -in my train, I believe the master of the fonda where I lodge, pointing -to a _manege_ now building, asked for whom it was designed, the King or -the Duke d'Alcudia? "For both, no doubt," was the answer; "what serves -one serves the other." In the royal tribune, I was informed, with a -woful shrug, that the King, thank God! continued to be exact and fervent -in his devotions; never missing mass a single day, and frequently -spending considerable time in mental prayer; but that the Queen was -scandalously remiss, and seldom appeared in the chapels, except when -some slender remains of etiquette render her presence indispensable. - -The chapel, repaired after designs of Sabbatini, an old Italian -architect, much in favour with Charles the Third, has merit, and is -remarkable for the just distribution of light, which produces a solemn -religious effect. The three altars are noble, and their paintings good. -One in particular, on the right, dedicated to St. Anthony, immediately -attracted my attention by the effulgence of glory amidst which the -infant Jesus is descending to caress the kneeling saint, whose attitude, -and youthful, enthusiastic countenance, have great expression. The -colouring is warm and harmonious; Maella is the painter. - -I inquired after a remarkable room in this palace, called in the plan -_Salon de los Funciones_, and vulgarly _el Coliseo_. The ceiling was -painted by Mengs, and esteemed one of his capital works: here Ferdinand -and Barbara, the most musical of sovereigns, used to melt in ecstasies -at the soft warblings of Farinelli and Egiziello--but, alas! the scene -of their amusements, like themselves and their warblers, is no more. -Not later than last summer, this grand theatrical apartment was divided -into a suite of shabby, bandboxical rooms for the accommodation of the -Infant of Parma. No mercy was shown to the beautiful roof. In some -places, legs and folds of drapery are still visible; but the workmen are -hammering and plastering at a great rate, and in a few days whitewash -will cover all. - -Coming out of the palace, and observing how deserted and melancholy the -walks, garden, and avenues appeared, I was told, that in a few weeks a -total change would take place, for the court was expected on the 6th of -January, to remain six months, and that every pleasure followed in its -train. Shoals of gamblers, and ladies of easy virtue of all ranks, ages, -and descriptions. Every barrier which Charles the Third, of chaste and -pious memory, attempted to oppose to the wanton inclinations of his -subjects, has been broken down in the present reign; boundless freedom -of conduct prevails, and the most disgusting debauchery riots in these -lovely groves, which deserve to be set apart for elegant and rural -pleasures. - -In my walks I passed a huge edifice lately built for the favourite -Alcudia. Common report accuses it of being more magnificently furnished -than the royal residence; but as I did not enter it, I shall content -myself with noting down, that it boasts nineteen windows in front, and a -plain Tuscan portal with handsome granite pillars. Adjoining is a house -belonging to the Duchess of Ossuna, full of workmen, painters, and -stuccadors: a goggle-eyed Milanese, most fiercely conceited, is daubing -the walls with all his might and main. He is an architect too, at least -I have his word for it, and claims the merit, a great one as he -believes, of having designed a sort of ball-room, with many a festoon -and Bohemian glass-chandelier and coarse arabesque. The floor is -bricked, upon which thick mats or carpets are spread when dancing is -going forward. - -I was in hopes this tiresome custom of thumping mats and rugs with the -feet, to the brisk airs of boleros and fandangos, was exploded. No music -is more inspiring than the Spanish; what a pity they refuse themselves -the joy of rising a foot or two into the air at every step, by the help -of elastic boards. - -Next to this sort of a ball-room is a sort of an oval boudoir, and then -a sort of an octagon; all bad sorts of their kind. This confounded -painter is covering the oval with landscapes, not half so harmonious or -spirited as those which figure on Birmingham snuff-boxes or tea-boards. -He has a terrible partiality to blues and greens of the crudest tints. -Such colours affect my eyes as disagreeably as certain sounds my teeth, -when set on edge. I pity the Duchess of Ossuna, whose liberal desire of -encouraging the arts deserves better artists. In music she has been more -fortunate: Boccharini directed her band when I was last at Madrid; and I -remember with what transport she heard and applauded the Galli, to whom -she sent one morning a present of the most expensive trinkets, -carelessly heaped up upon a magnificent salver of massive silver, two or -three feet in diameter. - -The day closed as I was wandering about the Duchess's mansion, surprised -at the slovenly neglect of the furniture, not an article of which has -been moved out of the reach of dust, scaffoldings, the exhalations of -paint, and the still more pestilential exhalation of garlick-eating -workmen. Universal apathy and indifference to everything seems to -pervade the whole Iberian peninsula. If not caring what you eat or what -you drink is a virtue, so far the evangelical precept is obeyed. So it -is in Portugal, and so it is in Spain, and so it looks likely to be -world without end: to which, let the rest of Europe say amen; for were -these countries to open their long-closed eyes, cast off their trammels, -and rouse themselves to industry, they would soon surpass their -neighbours in wealth and population. - - - - -LETTER XVIII. - - Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.--Destructive rage - for improvement.--Loveliness of the valley of - Aranjuez.--Undisturbed happiness of the animals - there.--Degeneration of the race of grandees.--A royal cook. - - -Wednesday, Dec. 2nd, 1795. - -It was near eleven before a thick fog, which had arisen from the groves -and waters of Aranjuez, dispersed. I took advantage of a bright sunshine -to issue forth on horseback, and explore the extremities of the Calle de -la Reyna. Most of the ancient elms which compose this noble avenue, are -dead-topped, many have lost their flourishing heads since I was last -here, but on every side innumerable plantations of oak, elm, poplar, and -plane, are springing up in all the vigour and luxuriance of youth. I was -sorry to see many, very many acres of unmeaning shrubbery, serpentine -walks, and clumps of paltry flowers, encroaching upon the wild thickets -upon the banks of the Tagus. - -The King, the Queen, the favourite, are bitten by the rage of what they -fancy to be improvement, and are levelling ground, and smoothing banks, -and building rock-work, with pagodas and Chinese-railing. The laburnums, -weeping-willows, and flowering shrubs, which I admired so much seven -years ago in all their native luxuriance, are beginning to be trimmed -and tortured into what the gardener calls genteel shapes. Even the -course of the Tagus has been thwarted, and part of its waters diverted -into a broad ditch in order to form an island; flat, swampy, and dotted -over with exotic shrubs, to make room for which many a venerable arbele -and poplar has been laid low. - -Hard by stands a large brick mansion, just erected, in the dullest and -commonest Spanish taste, very improperly called Casa del Labrador. It -has nothing rural about it, not even a hen-roost or a hog-sty; but the -kitchen is snug and commodious, and to this his Catholic Majesty often -resorts, and cooks with his own royal hands, and for his own royal -self, creadillas, (alias lamb's fry,) garlick-omelets, and other savoury -messes, in the national style. - -Nothing delights the good-natured monarch so much as a pretence for -descending into low life, and creeping out of the sight of his court, -his council, and his people; therefore Madrid is almost totally -abandoned by him, and many capricious buildings are starting up in every -secluded corner of the royal parks and gardens. This last is the ugliest -and most unmeaning of all. I recollect being pleased with the casinos he -built whilst Prince of Asturias, at the Escurial and the Pardo. His -present advisers, in matters of taste, are inferior even to those who -direct his political movements; and the workmen, who obey the first, -still more unskilful and bungling than the generals, admirals, and -engineers, who carry the plans of the latter into execution. - -If they would but let Aranjuez alone, I should not care. Nature has -lavished her charms most bountifully on this valley; the wild hills -which close it in, though barren, are picturesquely-shaped; the Tagus -here winds along in the boldest manner, overhung by crooked willows and -lofty arbeles; now losing itself in almost impervious thickets, now -under-mining steep banks, laying rocks bare, and forming irregular coves -and recesses; now flowing smoothly through vast tracts of low shrubs, -aspens, and tamarisks; in one spot edged by the most delicate -greensward, in another by beds of mint and a thousand other fragrant -herbs. I saw numerous herds of deer bounding along in full enjoyment of -pasture and liberty; droves of horses, many of a soft cream-colour, were -frisking about under some gigantic alders; and I counted one hundred and -eighty cows, of a most remarkable size, in a green meadow, ruminating in -peace and plenty. - -The animal creation at Aranjuez seem, undoubtedly, to enjoy all the -blessings of an excellent government. The breed is peculiarly attended -to, and no pains or expense spared, to procure the finest bulls from -every quarter. Cows more beautifully dappled, more comfortably sleek, I -never beheld. - -If the race of grandees could, by judicious crossing, be sustained as -successfully, Spain would not have to lament her present scurvy, -ill-favoured generation of nobility. Should they be suffered to dwindle -much longer, and accumulate estates and diseases by eternal -intermarriages in the same family, I expect to see them on all-fours -before the next century is much advanced in its course. These little -men, however, are not without some sparks of a lofty, resolute spirit; -very few, indeed, have bowed the knee to the Baal of the present hour, -to the image which the King has set up. A train of eager, hungry -dependants, picked out of inferior and foreign classes, form the company -of the Duke of Alcudia. Notwithstanding his lofty titles, unbounded -wealth, solid power, and dazzling magnificence, he is treated by the -first class with silent contempt and passive indifference. They read the -tale of his illustrious descent with the same sneering incredulity, as -the patents and decrees which enumerate the services he has done the -state. Few instances, perhaps, are upon record, of a more steady, -persevering contempt of an object in actual power, stamped with every -ornament royal favour can devise to give it credit, value, and currency. - -A thousand interesting reflections arising from this subject crowded my -mind as I rode home through the stately and now deserted alleys of -Aranjuez. The weather was growing chill, and the withered leaves began -to rustle. I was glad to take refuge by a blazing fire. Money, which -procures almost everything, had not failed to seduce the best salads and -apples from the royal gardens, admirable butter and good game; so I -feasted royally, though I dare say I should have done more so, in the -most extensive sense of the word, could some supernatural power or -Frenchified revolution have procured me the royal cook. His Majesty, I -am assured, by those I am far from suspecting of flattery, has real -talents for this most useful profession. - -The comfortable listlessness which had crept over me was too pleasant to -be shaken off, and I remained snug by my fireside the whole evening. - -THE END. - -LONDON: PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -headach and indisposition=> headache and indisposition {pg v1 185} - -so wan and singugular=> so wan and singular {pg v1 201} - -into some inchanted cave=> into some enchanted cave {pg v1 231} - -suprising variety of other plants=> surprising variety of other plants -{pg v1 351} - -The shubberies and garden=> The shrubberies and garden {pg v2 182} - -ton at present in this court=> tone at present in this court {pg v2 240} - -statu quo=> status quo {pg v2 243} - -Nuestra Senora=> Nuestra Seora {pg v2 286} - - * * * * * - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] This crucifix was made of the bronze which had formed the statue of -the terrible Duke of Alva, swept in its first form from the citadel -where it was proudly stationed, in a moment of popular fury. - -[2] The History of John Bull explains this ridiculous appellation. - -[3] Hills in the neighbourhood of Canton. - -[4] Apuleius Met: Lib. 5. - - Vehementer iterum ac spius beatos illos qui - Super gemmas et monilia calcant! - - -[5] Schnberg, beautiful mountain. - -[6] Ariosto Orlando Furioso.--_Canto 7, stanza 32._ - -[7] A nephew of Bertoni, the celebrated composer. - -[8] This excellent and highly cultivated woman died at Naples in August -1782. Had she lived to a later period her example and influence might -probably have gone great lengths towards arresting that tide of -corruption and profligacy which swept off this ill-fated court to -Sicily, and threatened its total destruction. - -[9] Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i. p. 439. - -[10] The Piscina mirabilis. - -[11] See Letter VII. - -[12] See Miss Williams's poems. - -[13] Since Marquis of Abrantes. - -[14] Writers of travels are sadly given to exaggeration. The author of -the Tableau du Lisbonne writes, "Il est dix heures, une foule de P. de -Ch. s'avance," &c. From such an account one would suppose the whole line -of houses in motion. No such thing. At intervals, to be sure, some -accidents of this sort, more or less, slily occur; but by no means in so -general and evident a manner. - -[15] These affecting tones seem to have made a lasting impression indeed -upon the heart of a young man, one of the principal clerks in the -Secretary of State's office; he was all admiration, all ardour, his -divinity all indifference. After a long period of unavailing courtship, -the poor lover, driven to absolute despair, made a donation of all he -was worth in the world to the object of his adoration, and threw himself -into the Tagus. Providentially he was fished out and brought home, pale -and almost inanimate. Such a spectacle, accompanied by so vivid a proof -of unlimited passion, had its effect. The lady relented, they were -united, and are as happy at this day, I believe, as the recollection of -so narrow an escape, and its cause, can make them. - -[16] An old English housekeeper. - -[17] For no light specimen of these atrocities, see Southey's Letters -from Spain and Portugal. - -[18] Don Joa da Valperra. - -[19] At the time I wrote this, half Lisbon believed in the individuality -of the holy crows, and the other half prudently concealed their -scepticism. - -[20] Don Jos, elder brother of the late king, John VI. - -[21] Dryden. - -[22] The royal chapel of the Ajuda, though somewhat fallen from the -unequalled splendour it boasted during the sing-song days of the late -king, Don Joseph, still displayed some of the finest specimens of vocal -manufacture which Italy could furnish. It possessed, at the same time, -Carlo Reina, Ferracuti, Totti, Fedelino, Ripa, Gelati, Venanzio, -Biagino, and Marini--all these _virtuosi_, with names ending in vowels, -were either _contraltos_ of the softest note, or _sopranos_ of the -highest squeakery. - -[23] Now Marquis of Tancos. - -[24] About the period of the present king's accession, several ladies of -this description had bounced into the peerage; but as they did not walk -at the coronation, somebody observed, it was odd enough that the -peeresses best accustomed to a free use of their limbs, declined -stirring a step upon this occasion. Horace Walpole mentions this bon mot -in some of his letters; I forget to whom he attributes it. - -[25] The personage in question paid dearly for having listened to evil -counsellors and exciting the suspicions of the church. In about a -twelvemonth after this conversation, the small pox, not attended to so -skilfully as it might have been, was suffered to carry him off, and -reduced his imperious widow to a mere cipher in the politics of a court -she had begun very successfully to agitate. To this period the cruel -distress of the queen's mind may be traced. The conflict between -maternal tenderness and what she thought political duty, may be supposed -with much greater probability to have produced her fatal derangement, -than all the scruples respecting the Aveiro and Tavoura confiscations -which the fanatical, interested priest, who succeeded my excellent -friend, excited. - -[26] A well-known wily diplomatist, afterwards ambassador at -Constantinople. - -[27] He resided afterwards at Paris in a diplomatic character, and is -supposed to have been implicated in some of the least amiable events of -the revolution. A mysterious passage in the first volume of Soulavie's -Memoirs is said to refer to him. He was particularly intimate with -citizen Egalit. - -[28] A nephew of the famous Angelica, and no indifferent painter -himself. - -[29] I have seen a beautiful portrait, engraved by Selma, of this image, -and dedicated in due form to its first lady of the dressing-room, -Marchioness of Cogolhudo, Duchess of San Estvan, &c. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Italy; with sketches of Spain and -Portugal, by William Beckford - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - -***** This file should be named 41150-8.txt or 41150-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41150/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal - -Author: William Beckford - -Release Date: October 23, 2012 [EBook #41150] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border:1px solid gray;padding:2%;text-align:center; -margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;max-width:40em;"> -<tr><td>Transcriber’s note: This etext, which includes the two -volumes, attempts to replicate the printed book as -closely as possible. Obvious errors in spelling and punctuation have -been corrected. <a href="#transc">A list follows the etext.</a> The archaic spelling of words used by -the author (chesnuts, befel, visiters, cotemporary, woful, etc.) has not been corrected or modernized by the etext -transcriber. Footnotes have been moved to the end of the text body.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="338" height="550" alt="image of the book's cover" title="" /> -</p> - -<table border="2" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="5" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CONTENTS-1"><b>Contents, Volume I</b></a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CONTENTS-2"><b>Contents, Volume II</b></a></td></tr> -</table> - -<h1>ITALY;<br /> -<small>WITH SKETCHES OF</small><br /><br /> -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.<br /> </h1> - -<p class="cb">BY THE AUTHOR OF “VATHEK.”<br /><br /><br /> -THIRD EDITION.<br /><br /> -IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /><br /> -VOL. I.<br /><br /><br /><br /> -LONDON:<br /> -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,<br /> -<span class="eng">Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.</span><br /> -1835.</p> - -<h2>ADVERTISEMENT.</h2> - -<p>S<small>OME</small> justly admired Authors having condescended to glean a few stray -thoughts from these Letters, which have remained dormant a great many -years; I have been at length emboldened to lay them before the public. -Perhaps, as they happen to contain passages which persons of -acknowledged taste have honoured with their notice, they may possibly be -less unworthy of emerging from the shade into daylight than I imagined.</p> - -<p>Most of these Letters were written in the bloom and heyday of youthful -spirits and youthful confidence, at a period when the old order of -things existed with all its picturesque pomps and absurdities; when -Venice enjoyed her piombi and submarine dungeons; France her bastile; -the Peninsula her holy Inquisition. To look back upon what is beginning -to appear almost a fabulous era in the eyes of the modern children of -light, is not unamusing or uninstructive; for, still better to -appreciate the present, we should be led not unfrequently to recall the -intellectual muzziness of the past.</p> - -<p>But happily these pages are not crowded with such records: they are -chiefly filled with delineations of landscape and those effects of -natural phenomena which it is not in the power of revolutions or -constitutions to alter or destroy.</p> - -<p>A few moments snatched from the contemplation of political crimes, -bloodshed, and treachery, are a few moments gained to all lovers of -innocent illusion. Nor need the statesman or the scholar despise the -occasional relaxation of light reading. When Jupiter and the great -deities are represented by Homer as retiring from scenes of havoc and -carnage to visit the blameless and quiet Ethiopians, who were the -farthest removed of all nations, the Lord knows whither, at the very -extremities of the ocean,—would they have given ear to manifestos or -protocols? No, they would much rather have listened to the Tales of -Mother Goose.</p> - -<p>London, June 12th, 1834.</p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS-1" id="CONTENTS-1"></a>CONTENTS<br /><br /> -OF<br /><br /> -THE FIRST VOLUME.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border:none;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;max-width:30em;"> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#THE_LOW_COUNTRIES">THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY.</a></big></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-low">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Passage to Ostend.—The Capuchin church.—Ghent.—Quiet -and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.—Antwerp.—The -Place de Meir.—Silence and solitude of -the town, contrasted with the tumult and uproar of London.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>3</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-low">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.—Monsieur -Van Lencren’s collection.—The Canon Knyff’s house and -gallery of paintings.—The Canon himself.—His domestic -felicity.—Revisit the cathedral.—Grand service in honour of -Saint John the Baptist.—Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist’s -astonishing flashes of execution.—Evening service -in the cathedral.—Magical effect of the music of Jomelli.—Blighted -avenues.—Slow travelling.—Enter the United -Provinces.—Level scenery.—Chinese prospects.—Reach -Meerdyke.—Arrival at the Hague.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>14</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_III-low">LETTER III.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.—Temptation -of St. Anthony, by Breughel.—Exquisite pictures by -Berghem and Wouvermans.—Mean garrets stored with inestimable -productions of the Indies.—Enamelled flasks of -oriental essences.—Vision of the wardrobe of Hecuba.—Disenchantment.—Cabinet -of natural history.—A day dream.—A -delicious morsel.—Dinner at Sir Joseph Yorke’s.—Two -honourable boobies.—The Great Wood.—Parterres -of the Greffier Fagel.—Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.—Fishy -locality of Dutch banquetting rooms.—Derivation -of the inhabitants of Holland.—Origin and use of enormous -galligaskins.—Escape from damp alleys and lazy waters.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>24</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IV-low">LETTER IV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Leave the Hague.—Leyden.—Wood near Haerlem.—Waddling -fishermen.—Enter the town.—The great fair.—Riot -and uproar.—Confusion of tongues.—Mine hostess.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>32</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_V-low">LETTER V.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Amsterdam.—The road to Utrecht—Country-houses and -gardens.—Neat enclosures.—Comfortable parties.—Ladies -and Lapdogs.—Arrival at Utrecht.—Moravian establishment—The -woods.—Shops.—Celestial love.—Musical -Sempstresses.—Return to Utrecht.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>35</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VI-low">LETTER VI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.—Glimpse of a dingy grove.—Melancholy -saunterers.—Dusseldorf Gallery.—Nocturnal -depredators.—Arrival at Cologne.—Shrine of the Three -Wise Sovereigns.—Peregrinations of their beatified bones.—Road -to Bonn.—Delights of Catholicism.—Azure mountains.—Visionary -palaces.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>39</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VII-low">LETTER VII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Borders of the Rhine.—Richly picturesque road from Bonn -to Andernach.—Scheme for a floating village.—Coblentz.—A -winding valley.—The river Lahn.—Ems.—The planet.—A -supposed Apparition.—A little sequestered Paradise.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>47</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VIII-low">LETTER VIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Inveterate Idlers.—The planet Orloff and his satellites.—A -Storm.—Scared women.—A dreary Forest.—Village -of Wiesbaden.—Manheim.—Ulm.—The Danube—unlimited -plains on its margin.—Augsburg.—Sketch of the -Town.—Pomposities of the Town House.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>53</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IX-low">LETTER IX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.—Grand Fair at -Munich.—The Elector’s country palace.—Court Ladies.—Fountains.—Costume.—Garden -and tea-room.—Hoydening -festivities there.—The Palace and Chapel.—Gorgeous riches -of the latter.—St. Peter’s thumb.—The Elector’s collection -of pictures.—The Churches.—Hubbub and confusion -of the Fair.—Wild tract of country.—Village of Wolfrathshausen.—Perpetual -forests.—A Tempest.—A night -at a cottage.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>63</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_X-low">LETTER X.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Mittenwald.—Mountain chapels.—Saint Anna’s young -and fair worshippers.—Road to Inspruck.—Maximilian’s -tomb.—Vast range of prospects.—A mountain torrent.—Schönberg.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>73</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XI-low">LETTER XI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Steinach.—Its torrent and gloomy strait.—Achievements -of Industry.—A sleepy Region.—Beautiful country round -Brixen.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>84</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#ITALY">ITALY.</a></big></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-italy">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Bolsano.—Indications of approaching Italy.—Fire-flies.—Appearance -of the Peasantry.—A forest Lake.—Arrive -at Borgo di Volsugano.—Prospect of Hills in the Venetian -State.—Gorgeous Flies.—Fortress of Covalo.—Leave the -country of crags and precipices and enter the territory -of the Bassanese.—Groves of olives and vines.—Classic appearance -of Bassano.—Happy groups.—Pachierotti, the -celebrated singer.—Anecdote of him.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>89</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-italy">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Villa of Mosolente.—The route to Venice.—First view -of that city.—Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.—Morning -scene on the grand canal.—Church of Santa -Maria della Salute.—Interesting group of stately buildings.—Convent -of St. Giorgio Maggiore.—The Redentore—Island -of the Carthusians.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>97</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_III-italy">LETTER III.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Church of St. Mark.—The Piazza.—Magnificent festivals -formerly celebrated there.—Stately architecture of Sansovino.—The -Campanile.—The Loggetta.—The Ducal Palace.—Colossal -Statues.—Giants’ Stairs.—Fit of enthusiasm.—Evening-scene -in the great Square.—Venetian -intrigue.—Confusion of languages.—Madame de Rosenberg.—Character -of the Venetians.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>111</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IV-italy">LETTER IV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Excessive heat.—The Devil and Senegal.—A dreary -shore.—Scene of the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.—Return -to the Place of St. Mark.—Swarm of Lawyers.—Receptacles -for anonymous accusations.—The Council of Ten.—Terrible -punishments of its victims.—Statue of Neptune.—Fatal -Waters.—Bridge of Sighs.—The Fondamenti Nuovi.—Conservatory -of the Mendicanti.—An Oratorio.—Profound -attention of the Audience.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>123</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_V-italy">LETTER V.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.—Drawings -of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.—Titian’s -master-piece in the church of San Giovanni -e Paolo.—The distant Euganean hills.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>132</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VI-italy">LETTER VI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.—The once populous -city of Altina.—An excursion.—Effects of our music -on the inhabitants of the Islands.—Solitary fields infested -by serpents.—Remains of ancient sculpture.—Antique and -fantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Torcello.—San Lorenzo’s -chair.—Dine in a Convent.—The Nuns.—Oratorio -of Sisera.—Remarks on the music.—Singing of the Marchetti.—A -female orchestra.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>137</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VII-italy">LETTER VII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Coast of Fusina.—The Brenta.—A Village of Palaces.—Fiesso.—Exquisite -singing of the Galuzzi.—Marietta -Cornaro.—Scenes of enchantment and fascination.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>145</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VIII-italy">LETTER VIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Reveries.—Walls of Padua.—Confused Pile dedicated to -Saint Anthony.—Devotion at his Shrine.—Penitential -Worshippers.—Magnificent Altar.—Sculpture of Sansovino.—Colossal -Chamber like Noah’s Ark.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>149</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IX-italy">LETTER IX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Church of St. Justina.—Tombs of remote antiquity.—Ridiculous -attitudes of rheumatic devotees.—Turini’s music.—Another -excursion to Fiesso.—Journey to the Euganean -hills.—Newly discovered ruins.—High Mass in the great -Church of Saint Anthony.—A thunder-storm.—Palladio’s -Theatre at Vicenza.—Verona.—An aërial chamber.—Striking -prospect from it.—The amphitheatre.—Its interior.—Leave -Verona.—Country between that town and -Mantua.—German soldiers.—Remains of the palace of the -Gonzagas.—Paintings of Julio Romano.—A ruined garden.—Subterranean -apartments.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>153</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_X-italy">LETTER X.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Cross the Po.—A woody country.—The Vintage.—Reggio.—Ridge -of the Apennines.—Romantic ideas connected -with those mountains.—Arrive at Modena.—Road to -Bologna.—Magnificent Convent of Madonna del Monte.—Natural -and political commotions in Bologna.—Proceed towards -the mountains.—Dreary prospects.—The scenery -improves.—Herds of goats.—A run with them.—Return -to the carriage.—Wretched hamlet.—Miserable repast.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>166</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XI-italy">LETTER XI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A sterile region.—Our descent into a milder landscape.—Distant -view of Florence.—Moonlight effect.—Visit the -Gallery.—Relics of ancient credulity.—Paintings.—A -Medusa’s head by Leonardo da Vinci.—Curious picture -by Polemberg.—The Venus de Medicis.—Exquisitely -sculptured figure of Morpheus.—Vast Cathedral.—Garden -of Boboli.—Views from different parts of it.—Its resemblance -to an antique Roman garden.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>173</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XII-italy">LETTER XII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Rambles among the hills.—Excursions with Pacchierotti.—He -catches cold in the mountains.—The whole Republic is -in commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate with -the Singer on his imprudence.—The Conte Nobili.—Hill -scenery.—Princely Castle and Gardens of the Garzoni -Family.—Colossal Statue of Fame.—Grove of Ilex.—Endless -bowers of Vines.—Delightful Wood of the Marchese -Mansi.—Return to Lucca.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>186</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIII-italy">LETTER XIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Set out for Pisa.—The Duomo.—Interior of the Cathedral.—The -Campo Santo.—Solitude of the streets at midday.—Proceed -to Leghorn.—Beauty of the road.—Tower of -the Fanale.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>198</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIV-italy">LETTER XIV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Mole at Leghorn.—Coast scattered over with Watch-towers.—Branches -of rare coral unexpectedly acquired.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>200</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XV-italy">LETTER XV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Florence again.—Palazzo Vecchio.—View on the Arno.—Sculptures -by Cellini and John of Bologna.—Contempt -shown by the Austrians to the memory of the House of -Medici.—Evening visit to the Garden of Boboli.—The -Opera.—Miserable Singing.—A Neapolitan Duchess.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>203</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVI-italy">LETTER XVI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.—Ascend -one of the hills celebrated by Dante.—View from -its brow.—Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.—Birth of -a Princess.—The christening.—Another evening visit to -the woods of Boboli.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>209</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVII-italy">LETTER XVII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.—Rocky Steeps.—Groves of -Pine.—Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.—Reception -at the Convent.—Wild Glens where the Hermit -Gualbertus had his Cell.—Conversation with the holy -Fathers.—Legendary Tales.—The consecrated Cleft.—The -Romitorio.—Extensive View of the Val d’Arno.—Return -to Florence.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>214</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVIII-italy">LETTER XVIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Cathedral at Sienna.—A vaulted Chamber.—Leave Sienna.—Mountains -round Radicofani.—Hunting Palace of the -Grand Dukes.—A grim fraternity of Cats.—Dreary Apartment.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>224</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIX-italy">LETTER XIX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the -Papal territory.—Country near Aquapendente.—Shores of -the Lake of Bolsena.—Forest of Oaks.—Ascend Monte -Fiascone.—Inhabited Caverns.—Viterbo.—Anticipations -of Rome.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>228</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XX-italy">LETTER XX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Set out in the dark.—The Lago di Vico.—View of the -spacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.—Ancient -splendour.—Present silence and desolation.—Shepherd -huts.—Wretched policy of the Papal Government.—Distant -view of Rome.—Sensations on entering the City.—The -Pope returning from Vespers.—St. Peter’s Colonnade.—Interior -of the Church.—Reveries.—A visionary -scheme.—The Pantheon.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>230</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXI-italy">LETTER XXI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Leave Rome for Naples.—Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.—Albano.—Malaria.—Veletri.—Classical -associations.—The -Circean Promontory.—Terracina.—Ruined Palace.—Mountain -Groves.—Rock of Circe.—The Appian Way.—Arrive -at Mola di Gaeta.—Beautiful prospect.—A Deluge.—Enter -Naples by night, during a fearful Storm.—Clear -Morning.—View from my window.—Courtly Mob at the -Palace.—The Presence Chamber.—The King and his Courtiers.—Party -at the House of Sir W. H.—Grand Illumination -at the Theatre of St. Carlo.—Marchesi.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>240</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXII-italy">LETTER XXII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>View of the coast of Posilipo.—Virgil’s tomb.—Superstition -of the Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.—Aërial -situation.—A grand scene.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>253</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXIII-italy">LETTER XXIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A ramble on the shore of Baii.—Local traditions.—Cross -the bay.—Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.—Wondrous -reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.—The -Dead Lake.—Wild scene.—Beautiful meadow.—Uncouth -rocks.—An unfathomable gulph.—Sadness induced -by the wild appearance of the place.—Conversation -with a recluse.—Her fearful narration.—Melancholy -evening.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>258</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXIV-italy">LETTER XXIV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Tyrol Mountains.—Intense cold.—Delight on beholding -human habitations.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>280</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#SECOND_VISIT_TO_ITALY">SECOND VISIT TO ITALY.</a></big></th></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-italy2">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>First day of summer.—A dismal plain.—Gloomy entrance -to Cologne.—Labyrinth of hideous edifices.—Hotel of Der -Heilige Geist.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>285</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-italy2">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Enter the Tyrol.—Picturesque scenery.—Village of Nasseriet.—World -of boughs.—Forest huts.—Floral abundance.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>288</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_III-italy2">LETTER III.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.—Shore -of Fusina.—A stormy sky.—Draw near to Venice.—Its -deserted appearance.—Visit to Madame de R.—Cesarotti.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>290</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IV-italy2">LETTER IV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Excursion to Mirabello.—Beauty of the road thither.—Madame -de R.’s wild-looking niece.—A comfortable -Monk’s nest.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>294</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_V-italy2">LETTER V.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Rome.—Strole to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.—A -grand Rinfresco.—The Egyptian Lionesses.—Illuminations.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>297</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VI-italy2">LETTER VI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Negroni Garden.—Its solitary and antique appearance.—Stately -Porticos of the Lateran.—Dreary Scene.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>299</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VII-italy2">LETTER VII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Naples.—Portici.—The King’s Pagliaro and Garden.—Description -of that pleasant spot.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>302</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#GRANDE_CHARTREUSE">GRANDE CHARTREUSE.</a></big></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-grch">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.—Reach the -Village of Les Echelles.—Gloomy region.—The Torrent.—Entrance -of the Desert.—Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.—Dark -Woods and Caverns.—Crosses.—Inscriptions.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>307</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-grch">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Thick forest of beech-trees.—Fearful glimpses of the torrent.—Throne -of Moses.—Lofty bridge.—Distant view of -the Convent.—Profound calm.—Enter the convent gate.—Arched -aisle.—Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.—The -Secretary and Procurator.—Conversation with them.—A -walk amongst the cloisters and galleries.—Pictures of different -Convents of the order.—Grand Hall adorned with -historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>314</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_III-grch">LETTER III.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.—Cells of the -Monks.—Severity of the order.—Death-like calm.—The -great Chapel.—Its interior.—Marvellous events relating to -St. Bruno.—Retire to my cell.—Strange writings of St. -Bruno.—Sketch of his Life.—Appalling occurrence.—Vision -of the Bishop of Grenoble.—First institution of the Carthusian -order.—Death of St. Bruno.—His translation.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>324</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IV-grch">LETTER IV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Mystic discourse.—A mountain ramble.—A benevolent -Hermit.—Red light in the northern sky.—Lose my way in -the solitary hills.—Approach of night.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>335</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_V-grch">LETTER V.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Pastoral scenery of Valombré.—Ascent of the highest -Peak in the Desert.—Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.—Farewell -benediction of the Fathers.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>342</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#SALEVE">SALEVE.</a></big></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-sal">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.—Pas d’Echelle.—Moneti.—Bird’s-eye -prospects.—Alpine flowers.—Extensive -view from the summit of Saleve.—Youthful enthusiasm.—Sad -realities.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>357</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-sal">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Chalet under the Beech-trees.—A mountain Bridge.—Solemnity -of the night.—The Comedie.—Relaxation of -Genevese Morality.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>366</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_vol_1_001" id="page_vol_1_001"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_LOW_COUNTRIES" id="THE_LOW_COUNTRIES"></a>THE LOW COUNTRIES<br /><br /> -AND<br /><br /> -GERMANY.</h2> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-low" id="LETTER_I-low"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Passage to Ostend.—The Capuchin church.—Ghent.—Quiet and -Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.—Antwerp.—The Place de -Meir.—Silence and solitude of the town, contrasted with the tumult -and uproar of London.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Ostend, 21st June, 1780.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> had a rough passage, and arrived at this imperial haven in a piteous -condition. Notwithstanding its renown and importance, it is but a scurvy -place—preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when cast -upwards—swaggering Dutch skippers and mongrel smugglers are the -principal objects they meet with below; and then the whole atmosphere is -impregnated with the<a name="page_vol_1_004" id="page_vol_1_004"></a> fumes of tobacco, burnt peat, and garlick. I -should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances of this seaport -confined only to two senses; but, alas! the apartment above my head -proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds which proceed from it are so -loud and frequent, that a person might think himself in limbo, without -any extravagance.</p> - -<p>In hope of some relief, I went to the Capuchin church, a large solemn -building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again was I -disappointed. There happened to be an exposition of the holy wafer with -ten thousand candles; and whilst half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued -and flourished away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks -gabbled before the altars, a whole posse of devotees, in long white -hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either side.</p> - -<p>This papal piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so -I sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the -evening—for the black huddle of clouds, which the late storms had -accumulated, were all melted away—tempted me to the ramparts. There, at -least, thought I to myself, I may range<a name="page_vol_1_005" id="page_vol_1_005"></a> undisturbed, and talk with my -old friends the breezes, and address my discourse to the waves, and be -as romantic and fanciful as I please; but I had scarcely begun a poetic -apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies -and abbés and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such a -hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to observe the bright tints -of the western horizon, or enjoy those ideas of classic antiquity which -a calm sunset never fails to bring before my imagination.</p> - -<p>Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should -have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of -dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very -outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugarplums and -nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was restored, -and about eleven o’clock I fell into a slumber. My dreams anticipated -the classic scenes of Italy, the proposed term of my excursion.</p> - -<p>Next morning I arose refreshed with these agreeable impressions. No -ideas, but such as Nemi and Albano suggested, haunted me whilst<a name="page_vol_1_006" id="page_vol_1_006"></a> -travelling to Ghent. I neither heard the coarse dialect which was -talking around me, nor noticed the formal avenues and marshy country -which we passed. When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes upon -the dull prospect, and was transported immediately to those Grecian -solitudes which Theocritus so enchantingly describes.</p> - -<p>To one so far gone in the poetic lore of ancient days, Ghent is not the -most likely place to recall his attention; and I know nothing more about -it, than that it is a large, ill-paved, plethoric, pompous-looking city, -with a decent proportion of convents and chapels, monuments, brazen -gates, and gilded marbles. In the great church were several pictures by -Rubens, so striking, so masterly, as to hold me broad awake; though, I -must own, there are moments when I could contentedly fall asleep in a -Flemish cathedral, for the mere chance of beholding in vision the temple -of Olympian Jupiter.</p> - -<p>But I think I hear, at this moment, some grave and respectable personage -chiding my enthusiasm—“Really, sir, you had better stay at home, and -dream in your great chair, than give<a name="page_vol_1_007" id="page_vol_1_007"></a> yourself the trouble of going post -through Europe, in search of places where to fall asleep. If Flanders -and Holland are to be dreamed over at this rate, you had better take -ship at once, and doze all the way to Italy.” Upon my word, I should not -have much objection to that scheme; and, if some enchanter would but -transport me in an instant to the summit of Ætna, anybody might slop -through the Low Countries that pleased.</p> - -<p>Being, however, so far advanced, there is no retracting; and I am -resolved to journey along with Quiet and Content for my companions. -These two comfortable deities have, I believe, taken Flanders under -their especial protection; every step one advances discovering some new -proof of their influence. The neatness of the houses, and the universal -cleanliness of the villages, show plainly that their inhabitants live in -ease and good humour. All is still and peaceful in these fertile -lowlands: the eye meets nothing but round unmeaning faces at every door, -and harmless stupidity smiling at every window. The beasts, as placid as -their masters, graze on without any disturbance; and I scarcely -recollect to have heard<a name="page_vol_1_008" id="page_vol_1_008"></a> one grunting swine or snarling mastiff during -my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy dunghill, not at -all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and there sows and porkers -bask in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of death and -bacon arrives.</p> - -<p>But it is high time to lead you towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, -more ample fields of grain, more flourishing willows! A boundless plain -lies before this city, dotted with cows, and speckled with flowers; a -level whence its spires and quaint roofs are seen to advantage! The pale -colours of the sky, and a few gleams of watery sunshine, gave a true -Flemish cast to the scenery, and everything appeared so consistent, that -I had not a shadow of pretence to think myself asleep.</p> - -<p>After crossing a broad expanse of river, edged on one side by beds of -osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets -preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses to -our inn. Its situation in the “Place de Meir,” a vast open space -surrounded by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has -something striking and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, -sculptured by Cortels of<a name="page_vol_1_009" id="page_vol_1_009"></a> Malines,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> adds to its splendour; and the -tops of some tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, add -greatly to the effect of the perspective.</p> - -<p>It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new -objects discovered by this dubious, visionary light, I went immediately -a rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations: there were no groups -of squabbling children or talkative old women. The whole town seemed -retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and turning -about, from street to street, and from alley to alley, without meeting a -single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two women in long cloaks -and mantles glided by at a distance; but their dress was so shroud-like, -and their whole appearance so ghostly, that I should have been afraid to -accost them. As night approached, the ranges of buildings grew more and -more dim, and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. The -canals,<a name="page_vol_1_010" id="page_vol_1_010"></a> which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise in -perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me to observe -on the still waters the reflection of the structures above them. Except -two or three tapers glimmering through the casements, no one -circumstance indicated human existence. I might, without being thought -very romantic, have imagined myself in the city of petrified people -which Arabian fabulists are so fond of describing. Were any one to ask -my advice upon the subject of retirement, I should tell him—By all -means repair to Antwerp. No village amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon -Mount Lebanon, is less disturbed: you may pass your days in this great -city without being the least conscious of its sixty thousand -inhabitants, unless you visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be -heard a few devout whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a -little chiming; but, walk about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, -and be assured your ears will be free from all molestation.</p> - -<p>You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around me -whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty<a name="page_vol_1_011" id="page_vol_1_011"></a> of my -situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, I was in the -midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if by some magic -influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable indeed for -streets and edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a profound -repose. What a pity that we cannot borrow some small share of this -soporific disposition! It would temper that restless spirit which throws -us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, let us not be too -precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time may arrive when, like -Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of forgetfulness; when a fine verdure -may carpet our Exchange, and passengers traverse the Strand without any -danger of being smothered in crowds or crushed by carriages.</p> - -<p>Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted -with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I -insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was -aware, under its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an object -more solemn or more imposing than this edifice at the hour I first -beheld it. Dark shades hindered my<a name="page_vol_1_012" id="page_vol_1_012"></a> examining the lower galleries; their -elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of building -met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred and sixty-six feet -in the air, received an additional importance from the gloom which -prevailed below. The sky being perfectly clear, several stars twinkled -through the mosaic of the pinnacles, and increased the charm of their -effect.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was indulging my reveries, a ponderous bell struck ten, and -such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole edifice, -notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. I need not say, -no mob obstructed my passage. I ran through a succession of streets, -free and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs of -Wiltshire. The voices of my servants conversing before the hotel were -the only sounds which the great “Place de Meir” echoed.</p> - -<p>This characteristic stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back -upon those scenes of outcry and horror which filled London but a week or -two ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and to the environs -of the capital,<a name="page_vol_1_013" id="page_vol_1_013"></a> but haunted our streets at mid-day. Here, I could -wander over an entire city; stray by the port, and venture through the -most obscure alleys, without a single apprehension; without beholding a -sky red and portentous with the light of houses on fire, or hearing the -confusion of shouts and groans mingled with the reports of artillery. I -can assure you, I think myself very fortunate to have escaped the -possibility of another such week of desolation, and to be peaceably -lulled at Antwerp.<a name="page_vol_1_014" id="page_vol_1_014"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-low" id="LETTER_II-low"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.—Monsieur Van -Lencren’s collection.—The Canon Knyff’s house and gallery of -paintings.—The Canon himself.—His domestic felicity.—Revisit the -cathedral.—Grand service in honour of St. John the -Baptist.—Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist’s astonishing flashes -of execution.—Evening service in the cathedral.—Magical effect of -the music of Jomelli.—Blighted avenues.—Slow travelling.—Enter -the United Provinces.—Level scenery.—Chinese prospects.—Reach -Meerdyke.—Arrival at the Hague.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Antwerp, 23rd June, 1780.</p> - -<p>A<small>FTER</small> breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all the cabinets -of pictures in Antwerp. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren’s, who -possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, -with the rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heaven forbid I -should enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count the -dew-drops upon the most spangled of Van Huysum’s flower-pieces, or the -pimples<a name="page_vol_1_015" id="page_vol_1_015"></a> on their possessor’s countenance; a very good sort of man, -indeed; but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered.</p> - -<p>My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought me into -the court-yard of the Canon Knyff’s habitation; a snug abode, well -furnished with ample fauteuils and orthodox couches. After viewing the -rooms on the first floor, we mounted an easy staircase, and entered an -ante-chamber, which they who delight in the imitations of art rather -than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the portraits of -tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but it must be confessed, -that amongst these uninteresting performances are dispersed a few -striking Berghems and agreeable Polembergs. In the gallery adjoining, -two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit observation; and a large Teniers, -representing the Hermit St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious set of -imps and leering devilesses, is well calculated to display the whimsical -buffoonery of a Dutch imagination.</p> - -<p>I was enjoying this strange medley, when the canon made his appearance; -and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to Flemish ideas. In -my humble opinion, his reverence looked a<a name="page_vol_1_016" id="page_vol_1_016"></a> little muddled or so; and, to -be sure, the description I afterwards heard of his style of living -favours not a little my surmises. This worthy dignitary, what with his -private fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a spanking -revenue, which he contrives to get rid of in the joys of the table and -the encouragement of the pencil.</p> - -<p>His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of so -comfortable an income; the canon being upon a very social footing with -them all. At four o’clock in the afternoon, a select party attend him in -his coach to an ale-house about a league from the city; where a table, -well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, waits their arrival. -After enjoying this rural fare, the same equipage conducts them back -again, by all accounts, much faster than they came; which may well be -conceived, as the coachman is one of the brightest wits of the -entertainment.</p> - -<p>My compliments, alas! were not much appreciated, you may suppose, by -this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemberg, and -offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; but, as I -could not prevail upon<a name="page_vol_1_017" id="page_vol_1_017"></a> Mynheer Knyff to expand, I made one of my best -bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic felicity.</p> - -<p>In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament of -which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, and so -faithfully imitated that I dare say no Ass could see it unmoved. At -length, it was lawful to return home; and as I positively refused -visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord of -Rucker, and played myself quite out of the Netherlands.</p> - -<p>It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took advantage -of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of starlings had -just pitched on one of the pinnacles of the tower, whose faint chirpings -were the only sounds that broke the evening stillness. Not a human form -appeared at any of the windows around; no footsteps were audible in the -opening before the grand entrance; and during the half hour I spent in -walking to and fro, one solitary Franciscan was the only creature that -accosted me. From him I learned that a grand service was to be performed -next day in honour of St. John the Baptist, and the best music in -Flanders would<a name="page_vol_1_018" id="page_vol_1_018"></a> be called forth on the occasion, so I determined to stay -one day longer at Antwerp.</p> - -<p>Having taken this resolution, I availed myself of a special invitation -from Mynheer Van den Bosch, the first organist of the place, and sat -next to him in his lofty perch during the celebration of high mass. The -service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and examined the innumerable -chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer Van den Bosch thundered and -lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops.</p> - -<p>When the first flashes of execution had a little subsided, I took an -opportunity of surveying the celebrated Descent from the Cross. This has -ever been esteemed the master-piece of Rubens, which, large as it is, -they pretend here that Old Lewis Baboon<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> offered to cover with gold. A -swingeing St. Christopher, fording a brook with a child on his -shoulders, cannot fail of attracting attention. This colossal personage -is painted on the folding-doors which defend the grand effort of art -just mentioned from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has selected a very -proper subject to display the gigantic boldness of his pencil.<a name="page_vol_1_019" id="page_vol_1_019"></a></p> - -<p>After I had most dutifully surveyed all his productions in this church, -I walked half over Antwerp in quest of St. John’s relics, which were -moving about in procession. If my eyes were not much regaled by the -saint’s magnificence, my ears were greatly affected in the evening by -the music which sang forth his praises. The cathedral was crowded with -devotees, and perfumed with incense. A motet, in the lofty style of -Jomelli, performed with taste and feeling, transported me to Italian -climates; and I grieved, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think -that I had still so many tramontane regions to pass before I could in -effect reach that classic country. Finding it was in vain to expect -preternatural interposition, and perceiving no conscious angel or -Loretto-vehicle waiting in some dark consecrated corner to bear me away, -I humbly returned to my hotel.</p> - -<p>Monday, June 26th.—We were again upon the pavé, rattling and jumbling -along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. The plagues of Egypt -have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, by the -appearance of the oak trees: not a leaf have the insects spared. After -having had the displeasure of<a name="page_vol_1_020" id="page_vol_1_020"></a> seeing no other objects for several hours -but these blasted rows, the scene changed to vast tracts of level -country, buried in sand and smothered with heath; the particular -character of which I had but too good an opportunity of intimately -knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us without being once -out of breath.</p> - -<p>Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, and -had all their glory of canals, treck-schuyts, and windmills, before us. -The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and the lively -green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with the ideas I had -formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was not diminished upon -viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled meadows, with -stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable barges gliding -busily along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; it improved each -moment, as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, at sun-set, not one -single cloud obscured the horizon. Several storks were parading by the -water-side, amongst flags and osiers; and, as far as the eye could -reach, large herds of beautifully spotted cattle were enjoying the -plenty of their<a name="page_vol_1_021" id="page_vol_1_021"></a> pastures. I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or -Ning Po, till we reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the -current recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, therefore, -as I left my carriage and entered my inn, the clouds of tobacco which -filled every one of its apartments dispersed my Chinese imaginations, -and reduced me in an instant to Holland.</p> - -<p>Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell you that -its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe would be -nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass over the -village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent of pottery, -and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague.</p> - -<p>As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy the -shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling, and proceeded to the -village on the sea coast, which terminates the perspective. Almost every -cottage door being open to catch the air, I had an opportunity of -looking into their neat apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, all -glisten with cleanliness; the country people were drinking<a name="page_vol_1_022" id="page_vol_1_022"></a> tea, after -the fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and contrivances.</p> - -<p>I left them to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast azure -expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I remained there a -full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of different sizes were in -sight, the last sunbeam purpling their sails, and casting a path of -innumerable brilliants athwart the waves. What would I not have given to -follow this shining track! It might have conducted me straight to those -fortunate western climates, those happy isles which you are so fond of -painting, and I of dreaming about. But, unluckily, this passage was the -only one my neighbours the Dutch were ignorant of. It is true they have -islands rich in spices, and blessed with the sun’s particular attention, -but which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no means -fortunate.</p> - -<p>Abandoning therefore all hopes of this adventurous voyage, I returned -towards the Hague, and looked into a country-house of the late Count -Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets by no means resembling, one should -conjecture, the gardens of the Hesperides. But, considering<a name="page_vol_1_023" id="page_vol_1_023"></a> that the -whole group of trees, terraces, and verdure were in a manner created out -of hills of sand, the place may claim some portion of merit. The walks -and alleys have all the stiffness and formality which our ancestors -admired; but the intermediate spaces, being dotted with clumps and -sprinkled with flowers, are imagined in Holland to be in the English -style. An Englishman ought certainly to behold it with partial eyes, -since every possible attempt has been made to twist it into the taste of -his country.</p> - -<p>I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count Bentinck’s -tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized -over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. All the -way home, I reflected upon the unyielding perseverance of the Dutch, who -raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the bosom of the -waters. I had, almost at the same moment, a whimsical proof of the -thrifty turn of this people; for just entering the town I met an -unwieldy fellow—not ill clad—airing his carcase in a one-dog chair. -The poor animal puffed and panted, Mynheer smoked, and gaped around him -with the most blessed indifference.<a name="page_vol_1_024" id="page_vol_1_024"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_III-low" id="LETTER_III-low"></a>LETTER III.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.—Temptation of St. -Anthony, by Breughel.—Exquisite pictures by Berghem and -Wouvermans.—Mean garrets stored with inestimable productions of -the Indies.—Enamelled flasks of oriental essences.—Vision of the -wardrobe of Hecuba.—Disenchantment.—Cabinet of natural -history.—A day dream.—A delicious morsel.—Dinner at Sir Joseph -Yorke’s.—Two honourable boobies.—The Great Wood.—Parterres of -the Greffier Fagel.—Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.—Fishy -locality of Dutch banquetting rooms.—Derivation of the inhabitants -of Holland.—Origin and use of enormous galligaskins.—Escape from -damp alleys and lazy waters.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">30th June, 1780.</p> - -<p>I <small>DEDICATED</small> the morning to the Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings -and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst the pictures which -amused me the most is a temptation of the holy hermit St. Anthony, by -Hell-fire Breughel, who has shown himself right worthy of the title; for -a more diabolical variety of imps never entered the human imagination. -Breughel has made his saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies<a name="page_vol_1_025" id="page_vol_1_025"></a> -and creeping things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, would -have lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of steel and -fiery turrets glare on every side, whence issue a band of junior devils. -These seem highly entertained with pinking poor Anthony, and whispering, -I warrant ye, filthy tales in his ear. Nothing can be more rueful than -the patient’s countenance; more forlorn than his beard; more piteous -than his eye, forming a strong contrast to the pert winks and insidious -glances of his persecutors; some of whom, I need not mention, are -evidently of the female kind.</p> - -<p>But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad company -so long; and had I a moment to spare, you should be introduced to a -better set in this gallery, where some of the most exquisite Berghems -and Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for hours. I do not think -you would look much at the Polembergs; there are but two, and one of -them is very far from capital; in short, I am in a great hurry; so -pardon me, Carlo Cignani! if I do not do justice to your merit; and -forgive me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute of -admiration.<a name="page_vol_1_026" id="page_vol_1_026"></a></p> - -<p>Mynheer Van Something was as eager to precipitate my step as I was to -get out of the damps and perplexities of Sorgvliet yesterday evening; -so, mounting a creaking staircase, he led me to a suite of garretlike -apartments; which, considering the meanness of their exterior, I was -rather surprised to find stored with some of the most valuable -productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, models of -Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, and Japan -caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. The most pleasing -of all its baubles in my estimation was a large coffer of most elaborate -workmanship, containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, enough to -perfume a zennana. If disagreeable fumes, as I mentioned before, -dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils have doubtless the power of -raising them; for, whilst I scented their fragrancy, I could have -persuaded myself, I was in the wardrobe of Hecuba,—</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Where treasured odours breathed a costly scent.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of -matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began to rise upon -my sight, when a sweltering Dutch porpoise approaching<a name="page_vol_1_027" id="page_vol_1_027"></a> to make me a low -bow, his complaisance proved full as notorious as Satan’s, when, -according to Catholic legends, he took leave of Luther, that -disputatious heresiarch. No spell can resist a fumigation of this -nature; away fled palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, &c. I looked up, and -lo! I was in a garret. As poetry is but too often connected with this -lofty situation, you will not wonder much at my flight. Being a little -recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the cabinets -of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober senses. A grave -hippopotamus contributed a good deal to their re-establishment.</p> - -<p>The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me another -dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, on the -summits of Haynang and Nan-Hoa;<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> but the jargon which was gabbling all -around me prevented the excursion, and I summoned a decent share of -attention for that ample chamber which has been appropriated to bottled -snakes and pickled fœtuses.</p> - -<p>After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no very -new or singular objects<a name="page_vol_1_028" id="page_vol_1_028"></a> can be selected in this. One of the rarest -articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human head, most -dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have been bestowed by -amateurs on this performance. A German professor could hardly believe it -artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set his teeth in this -delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. My faith was less -hazardously established; and I moved off, under the conviction that art -had never produced anything more horridly natural.</p> - -<p>It was one o’clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; and another -hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions of stuffed -birds and marine productions. At length my departure was allowable; and -I went to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke’s, with all nations and languages. -Amongst the company were two honourable boobies and their governor, all -from Ireland. The youngest, after plying me with a succession of -innocent questions, wished to be informed where I proposed spending the -carnival. “At Tunis,” was my answer. The questioner, not in the least -surprised, then asked who was to sing there? To which I replied, -“Farinelli.<a name="page_vol_1_029" id="page_vol_1_029"></a>”</p> - -<p>This settled the business to our mutual satisfaction; so after coffee I -strayed to the Great Wood, which, considering that it almost touches the -town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. Not a branch being -ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches retain their natural -luxuriance. In some places their straight boles rise sixty feet without -a bough; in others, they are bent fantastically over the alleys, which -turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. I followed them with -eagerness and curiosity; sometimes deviating from my path amongst tufts -of fern and herbage.</p> - -<p>In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and -windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst contemplating -the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers and grasses -below. Hares and rabbits scudded by me while I sat; and the birds were -chirping their evening song. Their preservation does credit to the -police of the country, which is so exact and well regulated as to suffer -no outrage within the precincts of this extensive wood, the depth and -thickness of which might otherwise seem calculated to favour half the -sins of a capital.<a name="page_vol_1_030" id="page_vol_1_030"></a></p> - -<p>Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst -the beeches till late in the evening; then taking the nearest path, I -suffered myself, though not without regret, to be conducted out of this -fresh sylvan scene to the dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier -Fagel. Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one -side; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the -other. These sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United -Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour -to conquer their filthiness.</p> - -<p>But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to -mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their -odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be inclined to -this supposition by the numerous banquetting-rooms and pleasure-houses -which hang directly above their surface, and seem calculated on purpose -to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their -country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), one -should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their -pavilions in such situations; but, after all, I am<a name="page_vol_1_031" id="page_vol_1_031"></a> not greatly -surprised at the fishiness of their site, since very slight authority -would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water, and the -ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oysterishness of -eye and flabbiness of complexion, are almost proofs sufficient of this -aquatic descent: and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins -as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a -flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphinlike -termination?</p> - -<p>Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the -borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks to -a vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. There was no -temptation to puzzle myself in such a labyrinth; so taking advantage of -the lateness of the hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises of -returning at the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless -scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser and less -curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the Hague.<a name="page_vol_1_032" id="page_vol_1_032"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IV-low" id="LETTER_IV-low"></a>LETTER IV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Leave the Hague.—Leyden.—Wood near Haerlem.—Waddling -fishermen.—Enter the town.—The great fair.—Riot and -uproar.—Confusion of tongues.—Mine hostess.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Haerlem, July 1st, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled -along a shady road for about an hour, when down sunk the carriage into a -sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into a -profound repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I awoke, -we were rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable in -honour of this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung and -said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, and -smoked in its gardens. Let us get out of it as fast as we can, and -breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem.</p> - -<p>Here we arrived just as day declined: hay was making in the fields, and -perfumed the<a name="page_vol_1_033" id="page_vol_1_033"></a> country far and wide with its reviving fragrance. I -promised myself a sentimental saunter in the groves, took up Gesner, and -began to have pretty pastoral ideas as I walked forward; but instead of -nymphs dispersed over the meadows, I met a gang of waddling fishermen. -Letting fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherdesses, I jumped -into the carriage, and was driven off to the town. Every avenue to it -swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed to announce that -something extraordinary was going forward. Upon inquiry I found it was -the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much farther, our -carriage was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters of all -denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of little -illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys and -looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we reached our inn, -and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last we were -accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has been -dedicated to you.</p> - -<p>You will not be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since I tell -you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. At<a name="page_vol_1_034" id="page_vol_1_034"></a> this -very moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all regular -proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, and -show-boxes under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, -outrageous Italians, frisking minstrels; <i>tambours de basque</i> at every -corner; myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing -German couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed, -nothing to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while provoking -their appetite; squeaking chamber-maids in the galleries above, and mine -hostess below, half inclined to receive the golden solicitations of -certain beauties for admittance, but positively refusing them the moment -some creditable personage appears; eleven o’clock strikes; half the -lights in the fair are extinguished; scruples grow faint; and mammon -gains the victory.<a name="page_vol_1_035" id="page_vol_1_035"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_V-low" id="LETTER_V-low"></a>LETTER V.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Amsterdam.—The road to Utrecht.—Country-houses and gardens.—Neat -enclosures.—Comfortable parties.—Ladies and Lapdogs.—Arrival at -Utrecht.—Moravian establishment—The woods.—Shops.—Celestial -love.—Musical Sempstresses.—Return to Utrecht.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Utrecht, 2d July, 1780.</p> - -<p>W<small>ELL</small>, thank Heaven! Amsterdam is behind us; how I got thither signifies -not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was -hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the odours, exhaling -from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale the nose of a -Hottentot.</p> - -<p>Under these pungent circumstances we entered the great city. The -Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither as -fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, -magnificently coved, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That -despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way<a name="page_vol_1_036" id="page_vol_1_036"></a> are lined -with the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt -statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite -astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no -other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and -flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid’s work-bag. -Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the -neatness and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of -flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of -consequential personages were solacing themselves after the heat of the -day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable party dozing -over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an -avenue but swarmed with female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at -their sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities.</p> - -<p>But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, -and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my -attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Ziest, -in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation of<a name="page_vol_1_037" id="page_vol_1_037"></a> -Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy -fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, -amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate -protection of their pious brethren.</p> - -<p>Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built round -with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and one ragged -goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, perhaps, for -the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in -solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished with -gew-gaws and trinkets said to be manufactured by the female part of the -society. Much cannot be boasted of their handy-works: I expressed a wish -to see some of these industrious fair ones; but, upon receiving no -answer, found this was a subject of which there was no discourse.</p> - -<p>Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance -of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued -very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught a -glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns<a name="page_vol_1_038" id="page_vol_1_038"></a> as they -sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great -inclination to approach this busy group, but the roll of a brother’s eye -corrected me.</p> - -<p>Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated -buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my -expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall -esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so hasty a -narrative.<a name="page_vol_1_039" id="page_vol_1_039"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VI-low" id="LETTER_VI-low"></a>LETTER VI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.—Glimpse of a dingy grove.—Melancholy -saunterers.—Dusseldorf Gallery.—Nocturnal depredators.—Arrival -at Cologne.—Shrine of the Three Wise Sovereigns.—Peregrinations -of their beatified bones.—Road to Bonn.—Delights of -Catholicism.—Azure mountains.—Visionary palaces.</p></div> - -<p>We arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the mouldering -turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a candle and -lantern. An old woman at the gate asked our names (for not a single -soldier appeared); and after traversing a number of superannuated -streets without perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his -Paladins, we procured comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and -slept most unheroically sound, till it was time to set forward for -Dusseldorf.</p> - -<p>July 8th.—As we were driven out of the town, I caught a glimpse of a -grove, hemmed in by<a name="page_vol_1_040" id="page_vol_1_040"></a> dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers were -sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan -greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like unhappy -souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away their -existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a party behind; -and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads and rumbling -pavements, crossed the Rhine and travelled on to Dusseldorf.</p> - -<p>Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers to -stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more indifferent -houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a living creature -moving about them; and at night a complete regiment of bugs “marked me -for their own.” Thus I lay, at once the seat of war and the conquest of -these detestable animals, till early in the morning (Sunday, July 9th), -when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, opened the ivory gates of -his empire, and freed his votary from the most unconscionable vermin -ever engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast asleep; and remained -quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till it was time to survey the -cabinet.<a name="page_vol_1_041" id="page_vol_1_041"></a></p> - -<p>This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains some -valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most boasted of -is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three enormous -representations of the last day, where an innumerable host of sinners -are exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of the devil’s -tail. The woes of several fat luxurious souls are rendered in the -highest gusto. Satan’s dispute with some brawny concubines, whom he is -lugging off in spite of all their resistance, cannot be too much admired -by those who approve this class of subjects, and think such strange -embroglios in the least calculated to raise a sublime or a religious -idea.</p> - -<p>For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to -contemplate a holy family by Camillo Procaccini, in another apartment. -The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure more graceful -than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an inspired -countenance or celestial features, it was here: but to attempt conveying -in words what the pencil alone can express, would be only reversing the -absurdity of many a master in the gallery who aims to represent those -ideas by the pencil<a name="page_vol_1_042" id="page_vol_1_042"></a> which language alone is able to describe. Should -you admit this opinion, you will not be surprised at my passing such a -multitude of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you out of -the cabinet without deluging ten pages with criticisms in the style of -the ingenious Lady Miller.</p> - -<p>As I had spent so much time in the gallery, the day was too far advanced -to think of travelling to Cologne; I was therefore obliged to put myself -once more under the dominion of the most inveterate bugs in the -universe. This government, like many others, made but an indifferent use -of its power, and the subject suffering accordingly was extremely -rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to Cologne.</p> - -<p>July 10th.—Clouds of dust hindered my making any remarks on the -exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance be not more -beautiful from without than within, I defy the most courteous compiler -of geographical dictionaries to launch forth very warmly in its praise. -But of what avail are stately palaces, broad streets, or airy markets, -to a town which can boast of such a treasure as the bodies of those -three wise sovereigns who were star-led to<a name="page_vol_1_043" id="page_vol_1_043"></a> Bethlehem? Is not this -circumstance enough to procure it every kind of respect? I really -believe so, from the pious and dignified contentment of its inhabitants. -They care not a hair of an ass’s ear whether their houses be gloomy and -ill-contrived, their pavements overgrown with weeds, and their shops -half choked up with filthiness, provided the carcasses of Gaspar, -Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved with proper decorum. Nothing, -to be sure, can be richer than the shrine which contains these precious -relics. I paid my devotions before it the moment I arrived; this step -was inevitable: had I omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have -cursed me for a Pagan.</p> - -<p>Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from their -native country? I thought them snug under some Arabian cupola ten feet -deep in spice; but who can tell what is to become of one a few ages -hence? Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco may be canonized some future -day in Lapland? I asked, of course, how in the name of miracles they -came hither? but found no story of a supernatural conveyance. It seems -that great collectress of relics, the holy Empress Helena, first routed -them out: then<a name="page_vol_1_044" id="page_vol_1_044"></a> they were packed off to Rome. King Alaric, having no -grace, bundled them down to Milan; where they remained till it pleased -Heaven to inspire an ancient archbishop with the fervent wish of -depositing them at Cologne; there these skeletons were taken into the -most especial consideration, crowned with jewels and filigreed with -gold. Never were skulls more elegantly mounted; and I doubt whether -Odin’s buffet could exhibit so fine an assortment. The chapel containing -these beatified bones is placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. -Several golden lamps gleam along the polished marbles with which it is -adorned, and afford just light enough to read the following monkish -inscription:—</p> - -<p class="c">“CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM:<br /> -EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM.”</p> - -<p>After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations of -the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather -surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, but -covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. Many an -impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic -bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of<a name="page_vol_1_045" id="page_vol_1_045"></a> saints and -evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed assembly (for -the shrine, they say, was formed under her auspices) surpasses my -comprehension. Perhaps you will say, it is no great matter; and give me -a hint to move out of the chapel, lest the three kings and their star -should lead me quite out of my way. Very well; I think I had better stop -in time, to tell you, without further excursion, that we set off after -dinner for Bonn.</p> - -<p>Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, and -scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all the -delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share of my -attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which bounded -our view, and in thought was already transported to their summits. Vast -and wild were the prospects I surveyed from my imaginary exaltation, and -innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Under their -capricious influence my fancy built castles and capitols in the clouds -with all the extravaganza of Piranesi. The magnificence and variety of -my aërial structures hindered my thinking the way long. I was walking -with a crowd of phantoms upon<a name="page_vol_1_046" id="page_vol_1_046"></a> their terraces, when the carriage made a -halt. Immediately descending the innumerable flights of steps which -divide such lofty edifices from the lower world, I entered the inn at -Bonn, and was shown into an apartment which commands the chief front of -the Elector’s residence. You may guess how contemptible it appeared to -one just returned from palaces bedecked with all the pomp of visionary -splendour. In other respects I saw it at a very favourable moment, for -the twilight, shading the whole façade, concealed its plastered walls -and painted columns.<a name="page_vol_1_047" id="page_vol_1_047"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VII-low" id="LETTER_VII-low"></a>LETTER VII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Borders of the Rhine.—Richly picturesque road from Bonn to -Andernach.—Scheme for a floating village.—Coblentz.—A winding -valley.—The river Lahn.—Ems.—The planet.—A supposed -Apparition.—A little sequestered Paradise.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 11, 1780.</p> - -<p>L<small>ET</small> those who delight in picturesque country repair to the borders of -the Rhine, and follow the road from Bonn to Coblentz. In some places it -is suspended like a cornice above the waters; in others, it winds behind -lofty steeps and broken acclivities, shaded by woods and clothed with an -endless variety of plants and flowers. Several green paths lead amongst -this vegetation to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the -foundation of abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising -above the cliffs, impress passengers with ideas of their<a name="page_vol_1_048" id="page_vol_1_048"></a> grandeur, that -might probably vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing to lose any -prejudice in their favour, I kept a respectful distance whenever I left -my carriage, and walked on the banks of the river.</p> - -<p>Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange -morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet in -length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great many -people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at their doors, -whilst their children played among the water-lilies that bloomed in -abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from one of these -aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains beyond, and added -not a little to their effect.</p> - -<p>Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an hour -contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy walnuts; -and should like extremely to build a moveable village, people it with my -friends, and so go floating about from island to island, and from one -woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you dislike such a party?<a name="page_vol_1_049" id="page_vol_1_049"></a> I -am much deceived, or you would be the first to explore the shady -promontories beneath which we should be wafted along.</p> - -<p>But I do not think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to -take up our night’s lodging, much to your taste. It is a mean, dirty -assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with -wooden galleries, in the delectable taste of old St. Giles’s. Above, on -a rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable -for nothing except situation. I did not bestow many looks on this -structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to Mayence -conducted us.</p> - -<p>July 12.—Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast, irregular -range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst downs purpled -with thyme and bounded by forests. This sort of prospect extending for -several leagues, I walked on the turf, and inhaled with avidity the -fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till I came to a steep slope -overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs in blossom. A -cloudless sky and bright sunshine made<a name="page_vol_1_050" id="page_vol_1_050"></a> me rather loth to move on; but -the charms of the landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward.</p> - -<p>I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, inclosed -by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the thickest -woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, reflected the -impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy that I was -determined to be better acquainted with it. For this purpose we -descended by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the best of our way -on the banks of the Lahn (for so is the river called) came suddenly upon -the town of Ems, famous in mineral story; where, finding very good -lodgings, we took up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds -and mountains.</p> - -<p>After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the moon -journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed over the -face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every mountain cast -its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights twinkled afar off -on the hills; they burnt<a name="page_vol_1_051" id="page_vol_1_051"></a> in silence. All were asleep, except a female -figure in white, with glow-worms shining in her hair. She kept moving -disconsolately about; sometimes I heard her sigh; and if apparitions -sigh, this must have been an apparition.</p> - -<p>July 13.—The pure air of the morning invited me abroad at an early -hour. Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down the stream, and landed -on a sloping meadow, level with the waters, and newly mown. Heaps of hay -still lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on every side this -little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! I could encamp here -for months, and never be tired. Not a day would pass by without -discovering some untrodden pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might -remain among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. I would give you, -and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else should be -conscious even of its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, I rambled -about the meads, scarcely aware which way I was going; sometimes a -spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange fancies. -Between both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never<a name="page_vol_1_052" id="page_vol_1_052"></a> have found -my boat again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting -fossils on the cliffs, directed me to it.</p> - -<p>When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive that I -had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a few wood -strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet received into -the realms of Ginnistan.<a name="page_vol_1_053" id="page_vol_1_053"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VIII-low" id="LETTER_VIII-low"></a>LETTER VIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Inveterate Idlers.—The planet Orloff and his satellites.—A -Storm—Scared women.—A dreary Forest.—Village of -Wiesbaden.—Manheim.—Ulm.—The Danube—unlimited plains on its -margin.—Augsburg.—Sketch of the Town.—Pomposities of the Town -House.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Ems, July 14.</p> - -<p>I <small>HAVE</small> just made a discovery, that this place is as full of idlers and -water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse Darmstadt can -desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its salubrious fountains. -I protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, so entirely was I taken -up with the rocks and meadows; and conceived no chance of meeting either -card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both however abound at Ems, -unconscious of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally -insensible to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring -barren crags and precipices, where even<a name="page_vol_1_054" id="page_vol_1_054"></a> the Lord would lose his way, as -a clumsy lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously -observed to me; nor could they form the least conception of any pleasure -there was in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving -into woods and recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there -were neither card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no <i>jambon -de Mayence</i> in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest -delights, to be met with in the commonest taverns.</p> - -<p>To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately -left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and -weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I -turned my back upon this polite assembly, when <i>Monsieur -l’Administrateur des bains</i>, a fine pompous fellow, who had been <i>maitre -d’hôtel</i> in a great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint -me, I suppose, that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince -Orloff, “<i>avec sa crande maidresse, son shamperlan, et guelgues tames -donneur</i>:” moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself -after his laborious employments at the Court of St. Petersburgh, and -expected (<i>grace aux<a name="page_vol_1_055" id="page_vol_1_055"></a> eaux</i>!) to return to the domains his august -sovereign had lately bestowed upon him, perfectly regenerated.</p> - -<p>Wishing Monsieur d’Orloff all possible success, I should have left the -company at a greater distance, had not a violent shower stopped my -career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing -heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a -gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close -foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the clouds -assumed a more formidable aspect; thunder rolled along the distant -cliffs, and torrents began to run down the steeps. At intervals a blue -flash of lightning discovered the agitated surface of the stream, and -two or three scared women rushing through the storm, and calling all the -saints in Paradise to their assistance.</p> - -<p>Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so -brilliantly on the folly of ascending mountains, bounced into the room, -and regaled my ears with a woeful narration of murders which had -happened the other day on the precise road I was to follow the next -morning.<a name="page_vol_1_056" id="page_vol_1_056"></a></p> - -<p>“Sir,” said he, “your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the left -you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the smallest -alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious -wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a -regiment; a little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest -land, the roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many -minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There lurk the most savage -banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince of Orange’s -proscription; and so desperate, that if they make an attack, you can -expect no mercy. Should you venture through this hazardous district -to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet a company of people who -have just left the town to search for the mangled bodies of their -relations; but, for Heaven’s sake, sir, if you value your life, do not -suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous regions, -however picturesque their appearance.”</p> - -<p>It was almost nine o’clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me -with terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not -under the most agreeable impressions.<a name="page_vol_1_057" id="page_vol_1_057"></a></p> - -<p>Early in the morning we set forward; and proceeding along the edge of -the precipices I had been forewarned of, journeyed through the forest -which had so recently been the scene of murders and depredations. At -length, after winding several hours amongst its dreary avenues, we -emerged into open daylight. A few minutes more brought us safe to the -village of Wiesbaden, where we slept in peace and tranquillity.</p> - -<p>July 16.—Our apprehensions being entirely dispersed, we rose much -refreshed; and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled -gaily over the plain in which Manheim is situated. The sun set before we -arrived there.</p> - -<p>Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and -fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared -conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity of -the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we could -hardly cross a street without hearing the sound of music. A scene of -such happiness and refinement formed a most agreeable contrast to the -dismalities we had left behind. All<a name="page_vol_1_058" id="page_vol_1_058"></a> around was security and contentment -in their most engaging attire.</p> - -<p>July 20.—After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a green -moor, of vast extent, with insulated woods and villages; here and there -the Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon -its banks. The fields in the neighbourhood of the town were overspread -with cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks, which convey -them down the great river in twelve days to Vienna, and thence, through -Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish empire.</p> - -<p>You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than those which -gilded our horizon. For ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth -unlimited levels interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which -appeared a long series of mountains. Such were the very spots for -youthful games and exercises, open spaces for the race, and spreading -shades to skreen the spectators.</p> - -<p>Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery Savannahs -in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians<a name="page_vol_1_059" id="page_vol_1_059"></a> -repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and -lead their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies -leave on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain -of future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and -dances upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of -these visionary plains rises the abode of Ateantsic, encircled by choirs -of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the sound of spears as they -ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite attendants, long -separated from them while on earth, are restored again in this ethereal -region, and skim freely over the vast level space; now, hailing one -group of beloved friends; and now, another. Mortals newly ushered by -death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see the -long-lost objects of their affection advancing to meet them, whilst -flights of familiar birds, the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once -more attend their progress, and the shades of their faithful dogs seem -coursing each other below. The whole region is filled with low murmurs -and tinkling sounds, which increase in melody as its<a name="page_vol_1_060" id="page_vol_1_060"></a> new denizens -proceed, who, at length, unable to resist the thrilling music, spring -forward in ecstasies to join the eternal round.</p> - -<p>A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst my -eyes wandered over the plains, which imagination widened and extended in -proportion as the twilight prevailed, and so fully abandoned was I to -the illusion of the moment, that I did not for several minutes perceive -our arrival at Günzburg; whence we proceeded the next morning (July 21) -to Augsburg, and rambled about this renowned city till evening. The -colossal paintings on the walls of almost every considerable building -gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the score of novelty.</p> - -<p>Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we -found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of -Augustus; which way soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable -edifice, or marble basin into which several groups of sculptured -river-gods pour a profusion of waters. These stately fountains and -bronze statues, the extraordinary size and loftiness of the buildings, -the towers rising in perspective, and the Doric portal of the -town-house, answered in some measure<a name="page_vol_1_061" id="page_vol_1_061"></a> the idea Montfaucon gives us of -the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter -attempts a representation of Troy or Babylon, and displays in his -back-ground those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, -or some such city, may easily be traced. Frequently a corner of Antwerp -discovers itself; and sometimes, above a Corinthian portico, rises a -Gothic spire: just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue of -Augustus, under which I remained till the concierge came, who was to -open the gates of the town-house and show me its magnificent hall.</p> - -<p>I wished for you exceedingly when ascending a flight of a hundred steps; -I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and crowned -with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five more -entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii leaning -over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each above -thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole -city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars, -cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly tinged -with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with emblematical<a name="page_vol_1_062" id="page_vol_1_062"></a> -paintings and innumerable canopies and pendents of carved work, casts a -very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should not be surprised at a -burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity in such a room.</p> - -<p>I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended -the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if on the point of giving -audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a high festival, and -half the inhabitants of Augsburg were gathered together in the opening -before their hall; the greatest numbers, especially the women, still -exhibiting the very dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed -upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with as -much silent respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of -Israel. When I got home, an execrable sourcroutish supper was served up -to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal style, and soon convinced myself -I was no longer Solomon.<a name="page_vol_1_063" id="page_vol_1_063"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IX-low" id="LETTER_IX-low"></a>LETTER IX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.—Grand fair at Munich.—The -Elector’s country palace.—Court -Ladies.—Fountains.—Costume.—Garden and tea-room.—Hoydening -festivities there.—The Palace and Chapel.—Gorgeous riches of the -latter.—St. Peter’s thumb.—The Elector’s collection of -pictures.—The Churches.—Hubbub and confusion of the Fair.—Wild -tract of country.—Village of Wolfrathshausen.—Perpetual -forests.—A Tempest.—A night at a cottage.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 22.</p> - -<p>J<small>OY</small> to the Electors of Bavaria! for preserving such extensive woods of -fir in their dominions as shade over the chief part of the road from -Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned city, I cannot boast of the -scenery changing to advantage. Instead of flourishing woods and verdure, -we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified by fields of withering -barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally across them; now and then a -stagnant pool, and sometimes a dunghill, by way of regale. However, the -wild rocks of<a name="page_vol_1_064" id="page_vol_1_064"></a> the Tyrol terminate the view, and to them imagination may -fly, and ramble amidst springs and lilies of her own creation. I speak -from authority, having had the delight of anticipating an evening in -this romantic style.</p> - -<p>Tuesday next is the grand fair at Munich, with horse-races and -junketings: a piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the -moment we entered the town, good-natured creatures from all quarters -advised us to get out of it; since traders and harlequins had filled -every corner of the place, and there was not a lodging to be procured. -The inns, to be sure, were hives of industrious animals sorting their -merchandise, and preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite of -difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment.</p> - -<p>July 23.—We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, the Elector’s -country palace, the bosquets, jets-d’eaux, and parterres of which are -the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a glitter -with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every pore. Beds of -poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and other flame-coloured flowers, -border the edge of the walks, which extend till the perspective appears<a name="page_vol_1_065" id="page_vol_1_065"></a> -to meet and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in party-coloured raiment. -The queen of Golconda’s gardens in a French opera are scarcely more -gaudy and artificial. Unluckily too, the evening was fine, and the sun -so powerful that we were half roasted before we could cross the great -avenue and enter the thickets, which barely conceal a very splendid -hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. Trevor, and a party of -fashionable Bavarians.</p> - -<p>Amongst the ladies was Madame la Comtesse, I forget who, a production of -the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de Baumgarten, who has -the honour of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses -stepping into a car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed and -explored alley after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, having -viewed Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and -Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a variety -of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly did their best -(for many were set agoing on purpose) I cannot say I greatly admired -them.</p> - -<p>The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as -swords, bags, and pretty<a name="page_vol_1_066" id="page_vol_1_066"></a> clothes could make them, looked exactly like -the fine people one sees represented on Dresden porcelain. Thus we kept -walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew up and -conveyed us to Mr. Trevor’s.</p> - -<p>Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden -and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till -morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the waltz, another amuse -themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That despatched, out -they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity and liveliness I -little expected to have found in Bavaria. After turning round and round, -with a rapidity that is quite astounding to an English dancer, the music -changes to a slower movement, and then follows a succession of zig-zag -minuets, performed by old and young, straight and crooked, noble and -plebeian, all at once, from one end of the room to the other. Tallow -candles snuffing and stinking, dishes changing at the risk of showering -down upon you their savoury contents, heads scratching, and all sorts of -performances going forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and -bassoons, snorting, grunting, and whining<a name="page_vol_1_067" id="page_vol_1_067"></a> with peculiar emphasis; now -fast, now slow, just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the -ceremonial of this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and -privilege is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, -the rooms are open, and Monday is generally far advanced before they are -deserted. If good humour and coarse merriment are all that people -desire, here they are to be found in perfection.</p> - -<p>July 24.—Custom condemned us to visit the palace, which glares with -looking-glass, gilding, and furbelowed flounces of cut velvet, most -sumptuously fringed and spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer -than anything Crœsus ever possessed, let them say what they will. Not -a corner but shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded -with jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and the richest -gems under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> thinks such -supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the honour, and had much -rather have trodden the turf of the mountains. Mammon would never have -taken his eyes off the pavement; mine soon left the contemplation<a name="page_vol_1_068" id="page_vol_1_068"></a> of it -and fixed on St. Peter’s thumb, enshrined with a degree of elegance, and -adorned by some malapert enthusiast with several of the most delicate -antique cameos I ever beheld; the subjects, Ledas and sleeping Venuses, -are a little too pagan, one should think, for an apostle’s finger.</p> - -<p>From this precious repository we were conducted through the public -garden to a large hall, where part of the Elector’s collection is piled -up, till a gallery can be finished for its reception. It was matter of -great favour to view, in this state, the pieces that compose it, a very -imperfect one too, since some of the best were under operation. But I -would not upon any account have missed the sight of Rubens’s Massacre of -the Innocents. Such expressive horrors were never yet transferred to -canvass. Moloch himself might have gazed at them with pleasure.</p> - -<p>After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much -tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the -continual repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy upon -you! However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, and -to-morrow we shall begin to mount the cliffs<a name="page_vol_1_069" id="page_vol_1_069"></a> of the Tyrol; but, do not -be afraid of any long-winded epistles from their summits: I shall be too -well employed in ascending them.</p> - -<p>July 25.—The noise of the people thronging to the fair did not allow me -to slumber very long in the morning. When I got up, every street was -crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and driving their -bargains in all the guttural hoarseness of the Bavarian dialect. Vast -quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops as we passed to -the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats set half the grandams and -infants in the place cackling with felicity.</p> - -<p>Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, we -entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely -park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where we stopped -to give our horses some refreshment, and were pestered with swarms of -flies, most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast upon -sugared tarts and honied gingerbread.</p> - -<p>The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to a -narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under which -lies scattered the village of Wolfrathshausen, consisting<a name="page_vol_1_070" id="page_vol_1_070"></a> of several -remarkably large cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries -projecting from them. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of these -complicated edifices, nor more solid than their construction; many of -them looked as if they had braved the torrents which fell from the -mountains a century ago; and, if one may judge from the hoary appearance -of the inhabitants, here are patriarchs coeval with their mansions. -Orchards of cherry-trees cover the steeps above the village, which to -our certain knowledge produce most admirable fruit.</p> - -<p>Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into a -grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing we had yet beheld. -There seemed no end to these forests, except where little irregular -spots of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we gained an -eminence it was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated -with meadows and glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of -sweet-scented flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the mountain-ash, -glowing with scarlet berries: and beyond, rise hills, rocks and -mountains, piled upon one another, and fringed with fir to their topmost -acclivities. Perhaps<a name="page_vol_1_071" id="page_vol_1_071"></a> the Norwegian forests alone, equal these in -grandeur and extent. Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey -such vast ideas. There, the woods climb only half way up their ascents, -which then are circumscribed by snows: here no boundaries are set to -their progress, and the mountains, from base to summit, display rich -unbroken masses of vegetation.</p> - -<p>As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with thunder, -obscured the horizon, whilst flashes of lightning startled our horses, -whose snorts and stampings resounded through the woods. The impending -tempests gave additional gloom to the firs, and we travelled several -miles almost in total darkness. One moment the clouds began to fleet, -and a faint gleam promised serener intervals, but the next was all -blackness and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon the -valley, and in a short time the torrents beginning to swell, raged with -such violence as to be forded with difficulty. Twilight drew on, just as -we had passed the most terrible; then ascending a mountain, whose pines -and birches rustled with the storm, we saw a little lake below. A deep -azure haze veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours concealed<a name="page_vol_1_072" id="page_vol_1_072"></a> the -cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities hung a few -transparent clouds; the rays of a struggling sunset streamed on the -surface of the waters, tingeing the brow of a green promontory with -tender pink.</p> - -<p>I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several -minutes, till this apparition faded away. Looking round, I shuddered at -a craggy mountain, clothed with forests and almost perpendicular, that -was absolutely to be surmounted before we could arrive at Walchen-see. -No house, not even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, -and penetrate these awful groves. At length, after some perils but no -adventure, we saw lights gleam upon the shore of the Walchen lake, which -served to direct us to a cottage, where we passed the night, and were -soon lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters.<a name="page_vol_1_073" id="page_vol_1_073"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_X-low" id="LETTER_X-low"></a>LETTER X.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Mittenwald.—Mountain chapels.—Saint Anna’s young and fair -worshippers.—Road to Inspruck.—Maximilian’s tomb.—Vast range of -prospects.—A mountain torrent.—Schönberg.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 26.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was spangling the -surface of the lake, which spreads itself between steeps of wood, -crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of -contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of the -lake, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the water, -tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and tranquil. -Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every outlet; and, no -village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress an idea of more -than European solitude.<a name="page_vol_1_074" id="page_vol_1_074"></a></p> - -<p>From the shore of Walchen-see, our road led us straight through arching -groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of a -rock covered with daphnes of various species, and worn by the course of -torrents into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of -shattered cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and -rapid streams hurrying between their intermingled trunks and branches. -As yet, no hut appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human -existence.</p> - -<p>After a few hours’ journey through the wilderness, we began to discover -a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence it arose, -composed of planks, and reared on the very brink of a precipice. Piles -of cloven fir were dispersed before the entrance, on a little spot of -verdure browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with hoary whiskers, -his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or three beautiful children -with hair neatly braided, played around him; and a young woman dressed -in a short robe and Polish-looking bonnet, peeped out of a wicket -window.</p> - -<p>I was so much struck with the appearance of this sequestered family, -that, crossing a rivulet,<a name="page_vol_1_075" id="page_vol_1_075"></a> I clambered up to their cottage and sought -some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst the -children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black-eyed girl -succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled -bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. I -reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast on the -turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable grace. The only -thing I wanted was language to express my gratitude; and it was this -deficiency which made me quit them so soon. The old man seemed visibly -concerned at my departure; and his children followed me a long way down -the rocks, talking in a dialect which passes all understanding, and -waving their hands to bid me adieu.</p> - -<p>I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we -entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every -age and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing branches; -others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. Even at noonday, I -thought we should never have found our way out.</p> - -<p>At last, having descended a long avenue, endless<a name="page_vol_1_076" id="page_vol_1_076"></a> perspectives opening -on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by hills, divided into -irregular inclosures, where many herds were grazing. A rivulet flows -along the pastures beneath; and after winding through the village of -Walgau, loses itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs and precipices -which rise above the cultivated slopes and frame in this happy pastoral -region. All the plain was in sunshine, the sky blue, the heights -illuminated, except one rugged peak with spires of rock, shaped not -unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, and wrapped, like that sacred -mount, in clouds and darkness. At the base of this tremendous mass lies -the hamlet of Mittenwald, surrounded by thickets and banks of verdure, -and watered by frequent springs, whose sight and murmurs were so -reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not think of -leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenwald the whole evening.</p> - -<p>Our inn had long airy galleries, with pleasant balconies fronting the -mountain; in one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the rills, and -cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes above. The -clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half visible, before we<a name="page_vol_1_077" id="page_vol_1_077"></a> -ended our repast, every moment discovering some inaccessible cliff or -summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun, with pale -golden colours. These appearances filled me with such delight and with -such a train of romantic associations, that I left the table and ran to -an open field beyond the huts and gardens to gaze in solitude and catch -the vision before it dissolved away. You, if any human being is able, -may conceive true ideas of the glowing vapours sailing over the pointed -rocks, and brightening them in their passage with amber light.</p> - -<p>When all was faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look around -me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover covered its -surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs and the -sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, broken into a -variety of glens and precipices, open a course for several clear -rivulets, which, after gurgling amidst loose stones and fragments, fall -down the steeps, and are concealed and quieted in the herbage of the -vale.</p> - -<p>A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; -and on the brow of<a name="page_vol_1_078" id="page_vol_1_078"></a> the hills above, appears a series of eleven little -chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads to them, -on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful peasants, all -of the name of Anna (for it was St. Anna’s day) going to pay their -devotion, severally, at these neat white fanes. There were faces that -Guercino would not have disdained copying, with braids of hair the -softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some had wreathed it simply -with flowers, others with rolls of a thin linen (manufactured in the -neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of elegance one should not -have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol.</p> - -<p>Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the -steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed -each to her fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, and -you may well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the -landscape, increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of their -adorations (for at intervals they sighed and beat their white bosoms -with energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at me as I -passed by. Do not be surprised, then, if I became a convert to idolatry -in<a name="page_vol_1_079" id="page_vol_1_079"></a> so amiable a form, and worshipped Saint Anna on the score of her -namesakes.</p> - -<p>When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a cascade -in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps of a wide -fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its entrance, which was -marked by a shed encompassed with mossy fragments and almost concealed -by bushes of rhododendron in full red bloom—amongst these I struggled, -till reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink of the foaming -waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues a stream which, -dashing impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, and -sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big drops hung on every spray, -and glittered on the leaves partially gilt by the rays of the declining -sun, whose mellow hues softened the rugged summits, and diffused a -repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, which inclined me to -imagine it the extremity of the earth—the portal of some other region -of existence,—some happy world beyond the dark groves of pine, the -caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its source! Impressed -with this romantic idea, I hung eagerly over the gulph, and fancied I -could<a name="page_vol_1_080" id="page_vol_1_080"></a> distinguish a voice bubbling up with the waters; then looked into -the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate its gloom—but all was dark -and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening from my reverie, I felt the -damps of the water chill my forehead; and ran shivering out of the vale -to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that reigned in the meads I had -wandered across before, tempted me to remain a good while longer -collecting dianthi freaked with beautifully varied colours, and a -species of white thyme scented like myrrh. Whilst I was thus employed, a -confused murmur struck my ear, and, on turning towards a cliff, backed -by the woods from whence the sound seemed to proceed, forth issued a -herd of goats, hundreds after hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then -followed two shepherd boys, gamboling together as they drove their -creatures along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, hunting a -stray heifer which brought up the rear. I followed them with my eyes -till lost in the windings of the valley, and heard the tinkling of their -bells die gradually away. Now the last blush of crimson left the summit -of <i>Sinai</i>, inferior mountains being long since cast in deep blue shade. -The village was<a name="page_vol_1_081" id="page_vol_1_081"></a> already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments -I followed its example.</p> - -<p>July 27.—We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through the wildest scenes -of wood and mountain, where the rocks were now beginning to assume a -loftier and more majestic appearance, and to glisten with snows. I had -proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, visiting the castle of -Embras, and examining Count Eysenberg’s cabinet, enriched with the -rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, and a complete collection of -the moths and flies peculiar to the Tyrol; but, upon my arrival, the -azure of the skies and the brightness of the sunshine inspired me with -an irresistible wish of hastening to Italy. I was now too near the -object of my journey, to delay possession any longer than absolutely -necessary, so, casting a transient look on Maximilian’s tomb, and the -bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts, and worthies, solemnly ranged in the -church of the Franciscans, set off immediately.</p> - -<p>We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, and -were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with fields -of corn, and variegated with wood and<a name="page_vol_1_082" id="page_vol_1_082"></a> vineyards, encircling lawns of -the finest verdure, scattered over with white houses. Upon ascending the -mount, and beholding a vast range of prospects of a similar character, I -almost repented my impatience, and looked down with regret upon the -cupolas and steeples we were leaving behind. But the rapid succession of -lovely and romantic scenes soon effaced the former from my memory.</p> - -<p>Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of rocks) -by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, opportunities -of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond forests; green -spots in the midst of wood, high above on the mountains, and cottages -perched on the edge of promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, -amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent -Inn, which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual murmur. -Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed over high bridges; -sometimes mounted halfway up the cliffs, till its roar and agitation -became, through distance, inconsiderable.</p> - -<p>After a long ascent we reached Schönberg,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> a<a name="page_vol_1_083" id="page_vol_1_083"></a> village well worthy of -its appellation: and then, twilight drawing over us, began to descend. -We could now but faintly discover the opposite mountains, veined with -silver rills, when we came once more to the banks of the Inn. This -turbulent stream accompanied us all the way to Steinach, and broke by -its continual roar the stillness of the night, half spent, before we -retired to rest.<a name="page_vol_1_084" id="page_vol_1_084"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XI-low" id="LETTER_XI-low"></a>LETTER XI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Steinach.—Its torrent and gloomy strait.—Achievements of -Industry.—A sleepy Region.—Beautiful country round Brixen.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 28.</p> - -<p>I <small>ROSE</small> early to enjoy the fragrance of the vegetation, bathed in a -shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, saw nothing but -crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores of the stream, still dark -with the shade of the mountains. The small opening in which Steinach is -situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, scarce leaving room for the -road and the torrent, which does not understand being thwarted, and will -force its way, let the pines grow ever so thick, or the rocks be ever so -formidable.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry has -contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water by -means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of<a name="page_vol_1_085" id="page_vol_1_085"></a> the rocks with soil. By -this means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of the -huts have gardens filled with poppies, which seem to thrive in this -parched situation.</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Urit enim lini campum seges, urit avenæ,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Urunt Lethæo perfusa papavera somno.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations -which discovered themselves. For what specific purpose these gaudy -flowers meet with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to -enquire; the mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even to -Germans. Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love -a conjecture, Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians to -a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these endless mountains. -Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, always denote the skirts of his -soporific reign, and I do not remember a region better calculated for -undisturbed repose than the narrow clefts and gullies which run up -amongst these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, and -moistened by rills and showers, whose continual trickling inspire a -drowsiness not easily to be resisted. Add to these circumstances the -waving of the pines,<a name="page_vol_1_086" id="page_vol_1_086"></a> and the hum of bees seeking their food in the -crevices, and you will have as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser -and Ariosto have placed the nodding deity.</p> - -<p>But we may as well keep our eyes open for the present, and look at the -beautiful country round Brixen, where I arrived in the cool of the -evening, and breathed the freshness of a garden immediately beneath my -window. The thrushes, which nest amongst its shades, saluted me the -moment I awoke next morning.<a name="page_vol_1_087" id="page_vol_1_087"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="ITALY" id="ITALY"></a>ITALY.<a name="page_vol_1_089" id="page_vol_1_089"></a><a name="page_vol_2_088" id="page_vol_2_088"></a></h2> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-italy" id="LETTER_I-italy"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Bolsano.—Indications of approaching -Italy.—Fire-flies.—Appearance of the Peasantry.—A forest -Lake.—Arrive at Borgo di Volsugano.—Prospect of Hills in the -Venetian State.—Gorgeous Flies.—Fortress of Covalo.—Leave the -country of crags and precipices and enter the territory of the -Bassanese.—Groves of olives and vines.—Classic appearance of -Bassano.—Happy groups.—Pachierotti, the celebrated -singer.—Anecdote of him.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 29, 1780.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> proceeded over fertile mountains to Bolsano. It was here first that I -noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick set with melons and Indian -corn; fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over garden walls, clustered -with fruit. In the evening we perceived several further indications of -approaching Italy; and after sun-set the Adige, rolling its full tide -between precipices, which looked terrific in the dusk. Myriads of -fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on<a name="page_vol_1_090" id="page_vol_1_090"></a> the bank. I traced the course -of these exotic insects by their blue light, now rising to the summits -of the trees, now sinking to the ground, and associating with vulgar -glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to remark their progress, since -we travelled all night; such being my impatience to reach the promised -land!</p> - -<p>Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept a few -hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in some -measure abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting -before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in -their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of -the same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, -filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses itself in -shady creeks, amongst hills entirely covered with shrubs and verdure.</p> - -<p>The shores present one continual thicket, interspersed with knots of -larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A cornice of -rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend to the very -brink, and dip their boughs in the water.</p> - -<p>It was six o’clock when I caught the sight of<a name="page_vol_1_091" id="page_vol_1_091"></a> this unsuspected lake, -and the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining a very rapid -ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several airy peaks -rising above tufted foliage. I quitted the contemplation of them with -regret, and, in a few hours, arrived at Borgo di Volsugano; the scene of -the lake still present before the eye of my fancy.</p> - -<p>July 31st.—My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, not very distant, -which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I thought an age, at -least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. The road was never -formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles and rolling -stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and jolting. I should -not have spared my execrations, had it not traversed a picturesque -valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed with fragments of rock, -precipitated, long since, from the surrounding eminences, blooming with -cyclamens.</p> - -<p>I clambered up several of these crags,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Fra gli odoriferi ginepri,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a><br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them deliciously -scented. Fratillarias,<a name="page_vol_1_092" id="page_vol_1_092"></a> and the most gorgeous flies, many of which I -here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and expanding -their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers I beheld, nor -their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my heart to destroy -their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch them for ever -from the realms of light and flowers. Had I been less compassionate, I -should have gained credit with that respectable corps, the torturers of -butterflies; and might, perhaps, have enriched their cabinets with some -unknown captives. However, I left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in -free possession of their native rights; and having changed horses at -Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired Italy.</p> - -<p>The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by the fortress of Covalo, in -possession of the empress queen, and only fit, one should think, to be -inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold but by -the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who live in -dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines for -powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach being a -little too aërial for my earthly frame. A black<a name="page_vol_1_093" id="page_vol_1_093"></a> vapour, tinging their -entrance, completed the romance of the prospect, which I never shall -forget.</p> - -<p>For two or three leagues there was little variation in the scenery; -cliffs, nearly perpendicular on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and -thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines and -gardens. Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries, made its -appearance, and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges -of white buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which numbers of -women and children were employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, -the stream gradually widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more -frequent and cottages thicker strown.</p> - -<p>About five in the evening we left the country of crags and precipices, -of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile territory of the -Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, and vines clustering -the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in every garden, and vases -of citron and orange before almost every door. The softness and -transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in happier climates; -and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through<a name="page_vol_1_094" id="page_vol_1_094"></a> my veins, upon -beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure stretched out before -me. A few hazy vapours, I can hardly call them clouds, rested upon the -extremities of the landscape; and, through their medium, the sun cast an -oblique and dewy ray. Peasants were returning home, singing as they -went, and calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were -milking goats before the wickets of the cottage, and preparing their -country fare.</p> - -<p>I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and -cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of -former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself of -Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, neither -soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their concealment, to -question and molest a weary traveller, for such is the happiness of the -Venetian state, at least of the terra firma provinces, that it does not -contain, I believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, and the -maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, you -know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire.</p> - -<p>Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the<a name="page_vol_1_095" id="page_vol_1_095"></a> chief part of the town in -the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a level -green, where people walk and take ices by moonlight. On the right, the -Franciscan church, and convent, half hid in the religious gloom of pine -and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and towers rising from -the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows, in front; -where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite to the -base of the mountains.</p> - -<p>Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with company, sitting in -circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with fruit and sherbets, -or lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free and -happy that I longed to be acquainted with them; and, thanks to a -warm-hearted old Venetian, (the Senator Querini,) was introduced to a -group of the principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise -to meet the next evening at the villa of La Contessa Roberti, about a -league from Bassano, and then to return together and sing to the praise -of Pachierotti, their idol, as well as mine.</p> - -<p>You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of the -same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what<a name="page_vol_1_096" id="page_vol_1_096"></a> -effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed a -few years ago, and threw his audience into such raptures, that it was -some time before they recovered. One in particular, a lady of -distinction, fainted away the instant she caught the pathetic accents of -his voice, and was near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa, who -sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole affair. “Egli -ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a Padua,” was her expression. I assured -her we were not without idolatry in England, upon his account; but that -in this, as well as in other articles of belief, there were many -abominable heretics.<a name="page_vol_1_097" id="page_vol_1_097"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-italy" id="LETTER_II-italy"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Villa of Mosolente—The route to Venice.—First view of that -city.—Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.—Morning scene on -the grand canal.—Church of Santa Maria della Salute.—Interesting -group of stately buildings.—Convent of St. Giorgio Maggiore.—The -Redentore.—Island of the Carthusians.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">August 1st, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> whole morning not a soul stirred who could avoid it. Those who were -so active and lively the night before, were now stretched languidly upon -their couches. Being to the full as idly disposed, I sat down and wrote -some of this dreaming epistle; then feasted upon figs and melons; then -got under the shade of the cypress, and slumbered till evening, only -waking to dine, and take some ice.</p> - -<p>The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente (for -so is the villa called) placed on a verdant hill encircled by others as<a name="page_vol_1_098" id="page_vol_1_098"></a> -lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected by porticos; -just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. A vast flight of -steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and her friends -received me with a grace and politeness that can never want a place in -my memory. We rambled over all the apartments of this agreeable edifice, -characterised by airiness and simplicity. The pavement encrusted with a -composition as cool and polished as marble; the windows, doors, and -balconies adorned with silver iron work, commanding scenes of meads and -woodlands that extend to the shores of the Adriatic; slender towers and -cypresses rising above the levels; and the hazy mountains beyond Padua, -diversifying the expanse, form altogether a landscape which the elegant -imagination of Horizonti never exceeded.</p> - -<p>I gazed on this delightful view till it faded in the dusk; then -returning to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and heard Signora -Roberti sing the very air which had excited such transport at Padua. As -soon as she had ended, a band of various instruments stationed in the -open street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted me at -any other time; but now, I wished<a name="page_vol_1_099" id="page_vol_1_099"></a> them a thousand leagues away, so -pleasingly melancholy an impression did the air I had been listening to -leave on my mind.</p> - -<p>At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting out -for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I hope some -future day to accept them.</p> - -<p class="rht">August 2.</p> - -<p>O<small>UR</small> route to Venice lay winding about the variegated plains I had -surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we came in two -hours and a half to Mestre, between grand villas and gardens peopled -with statues. Embarking our baggage at the last-mentioned place, we -stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was very agreeable after the -jolts of a chaise. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, terminated -by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy Virgin, peeping -out of a thicket, whence spire up two tall cypresses. Its bells tingled -as we passed along and dropped some paolis into a net tied at the end of -a pole stretched out to us for that purpose.</p> - -<p>As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an expanse -of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of Venice rising<a name="page_vol_1_100" id="page_vol_1_100"></a> from -its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, St. Michele, St. Giorgio -in Alga, and several other islands, detached from the grand cluster, -which I hailed as old acquaintances; innumerable prints and drawings -having long since made their shapes familiar. Still gliding forward, we -every moment distinguished some new church or palace in the city, -suffused with the rays of the setting sun, and reflected with all their -glow of colouring from the surface of the waters.</p> - -<p>The air was calm; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing upon -the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel in the -island of San Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, as we rowed -by and coasted the walls of its garden overhung with fig-trees and -surmounted by spreading pines. The convent discovers itself through -their branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the -sea, except where the garden intervenes.</p> - -<p>We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began to -interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing and -repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its stir and -bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much address through -a<a name="page_vol_1_101" id="page_vol_1_101"></a> crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, and rowed smoothly -by the side of a broad pavement, covered with people in all dresses and -of all nations.</p> - -<p>Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of arcades -and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the Leon Bianco, -which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the grand canal, -commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I have no terms to -describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and -cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenic, that adorn these edifices, of -which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render -all verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand scene of -perspective appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals the -other.</p> - -<p>The rooms of our hotel are spacious and cheerful; a lofty hall, or -rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a very good style, perfectly -clean, floored with a marbled stucco, divides the house, and admits a -refreshing current of air. Several windows near the ceiling look into -this vast apartment, which serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered -perfectly luminous by a glazed arcade,<a name="page_vol_1_102" id="page_vol_1_102"></a> thrown open to catch the -breezes. Through it I passed to a balcony which impends over the canal, -and is twined round with plants forming a green festoon springing from -two large vases of orange trees placed at each end. Here I established -myself to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would permit, -the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas.</p> - -<p>As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings -before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas moving -rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed and played -upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when the sounds of -music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew louder and louder, -an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued from the Rialto, and -stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, which stilled every -clamour and suspended all conversation in the galleries and porticos; -till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. The gondoliers catching -the air, imitated its cadences, and were answered by others at a -distance, whose voices, echoed by the arch of the bridge, acquired a -plaintive and interesting tone. I retired to rest, full of the<a name="page_vol_1_103" id="page_vol_1_103"></a> sound; -and long after I was asleep, the melody seemed to vibrate in my ear.</p> - -<p class="rht">August 3.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was not five o’clock before I was aroused by a loud din of voices and -splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out, I beheld the grand -canal so entirely covered with fruits and vegetables, on rafts and in -barges, that I could scarcely distinguish a wave. Loads of grapes, -peaches and melons arrived, and disappeared in an instant, for every -vessel was in motion; and the crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to -boat, formed a very lively picture. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a -good many whose dress and carriage announced something above the common -rank; and upon enquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just come from -their casinos, and met to refresh themselves with fruit, before they -retired to sleep for the day.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades of -the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing me -abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and grapes, -and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal to the marble steps -of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the<a name="page_vol_1_104" id="page_vol_1_104"></a> Senate in performance of a vow -to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in 1630. The -great bronze portal opened whilst I was standing on the steps which lead -to it, and discovered the interior of the dome, where I expatiated in -solitude; no mortal appearing except an old priest who trimmed the lamps -and muttered a prayer before the high altar, still wrapt in shadows. The -sun-beams began to strike against the windows of the cupola, just as I -left the church and was wafted across the waves to the spacious platform -in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, one of the most celebrated works of -Palladio.</p> - -<p>When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined the -graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just -proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my -umbrella on the margin of the sea, and viewed at my leisure the vast -range of palaces, of porticos, of towers, opening on every side and -extending out of sight. The Doge’s palace and the tall columns at the -entrance of the place of St. Mark, form, together with the arcades of -the public library, the lofty Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal -church, one of<a name="page_vol_1_105" id="page_vol_1_105"></a> the most striking groups of buildings that art can boast -of. To behold at one glance these stately fabrics, so illustrious in the -records of former ages, before which, in the flourishing times of the -republic, so many valiant chiefs and princes have landed, loaded with -oriental spoils, was a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I -thought of the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza -of St. Mark, along which he marched in solemn procession, to cast -himself at the feet of Alexander the Third, and pay a tardy homage to -St. Peter’s successor. Here were no longer those splendid fleets that -attended his progress; one solitary galeass was all I beheld, anchored -opposite the palace of the Doge and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, -whose sable hues contrasted strongly with its vermilion oars and shining -ornaments. A party-coloured multitude was continually shifting from one -side of the piazza to the other; whilst senators and magistrates in long -black robes were already arriving to fill their respective offices.</p> - -<p>I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where nothing -stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions, and, whilst I -remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the<a name="page_vol_1_106" id="page_vol_1_106"></a> distant buzz of the town. -Fortunately some length of waves rolled between me and its tumults; so -that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, undisturbed by officiousness -or curiosity. When the sun became too powerful, I entered the nave.</p> - -<p>After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the lightness -of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the pavement of -white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a mirror the -columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door that admitted -me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, surrounded by a -cloister supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully proportioned. A flight -of stairs opens into the court, adorned with balustrades and pedestals, -sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. This brought me to the -refectory, where the chef-d’œuvre of Paul Veronese, representing the -marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the first object that presented itself. -I never beheld so gorgeous a group of wedding-garments before; there is -every variety of fold and plait that can possibly be imagined. The -attitudes and countenances are more uniform, and the guests appear a -very genteel, decent sort of people,<a name="page_vol_1_107" id="page_vol_1_107"></a> well used to the mode of their -times and accustomed to miracles.</p> - -<p>Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range of -tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were -coming to devour with energy, if one might judge from their appearance. -These sons of penitence and mortification possess one of the most -spacious islands of the whole cluster, a princely habitation, with -gardens and open porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what -adds not a little to the charms of their abode, is the facility of -making excursions from it, whenever they have a mind.</p> - -<p>The republic, jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives at these -amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and churchmen, -prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the eyes of the -people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere flesh and blood, -and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest of Italy been of the -same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo’s maxims, some of its -fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie uncultivated, and its -ancient spirit might have revived. However, I can scarcely think the<a name="page_vol_1_108" id="page_vol_1_108"></a> -moment far distant, when it will assert its natural prerogatives, and -look back upon the tiara, with all its host of scaring phantoms, as the -offspring of a feverish dream.</p> - -<p>Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; -and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of -steps which lead to the Redentore, a structure so simple and elegant, -that I thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked about for -the statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful divinity. A huge -crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times present.</p> - -<p>The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of rueful -martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards of -capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers had -decorated the nave with orange and citron trees, placed between the -pilasters of the arcades; and on grand festivals, it seems, they turn -the whole church into a bower, strew the pavement with leaves, and -festoon the dome with flowers.</p> - -<p>I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. It was -mid-day, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where<a name="page_vol_1_109" id="page_vol_1_109"></a> I might -dine in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off in an instant; -but, though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished to advance still -faster, and getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the waters, -soon left the Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into the plains -of shining sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, fleeting -before me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores of the distant -continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion of my boat, and to -fly with equal celerity.</p> - -<p>I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the -waters—the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their surface. -Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the Carthusian garden, -before I recollected where I was, or could look attentively around me. -Permission being obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting -aside with my hands the boughs of figs and pomegranates, got under an -ancient bay-tree on the summit of a little knoll, near which several -tall pines lift themselves up to the breezes. I listened to the -conversation they held, with a wind just flown from Greece, and charged, -as well as I could<a name="page_vol_1_110" id="page_vol_1_110"></a> understand this airy language, with many -affectionate remembrances from their relations on Mount Ida.</p> - -<p>I reposed amidst fragrant leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it -pleased the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of fruit -and wine. Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand questions -about Lord George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was deeply -engaged with the winds, and a thousand agreeable associations excited by -my Grecian fancies, wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded -ignorance of the Italian language. This circumstance extricated me from -my embarrassment, and procured me a long interval of repose.<a name="page_vol_1_111" id="page_vol_1_111"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_III-italy" id="LETTER_III-italy"></a>LETTER III.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Church of St. Mark.—The Piazza.—Magnificent festivals formerly -celebrated there.—Stately architecture of Sansovino.—The -Campanile.—The Loggetta.—The Ducal Palace.—Colossal -Statues.—Giants’ Stairs.—Fit of enthusiasm.—Evening-scene in the -great Square.—Venetian intrigue.—Confusion of languages.—Madame -de Rosenberg.—Character of the Venetians.</p></div> - -<p>The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other -old story-tellers, and I dozed undisturbed till the people without, in -the boat, (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what was become of me -within,) began a sort of chorus in parts, full of such plaintive -modulation, that I still thought myself under the influence of a dream, -and, half in this world and half in the other, believed, like the heroes -of Fingal, that I had caught the music of the spirits of the hill.</p> - -<p>When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I moved -towards the shore whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay<a name="page_vol_1_112" id="page_vol_1_112"></a> before me; no -gale ruffled the expanse; every breath had subsided, and I beheld the -sun go down in all its sacred calm. You have experienced the sensations -this moment inspires; imagine what they must have been in such a scene, -and accompanied with a melody so simple and pathetic. I stepped into my -boat, and now instead of encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, begged -them to abate their ardour, and row me lazily home. They complied, and -we were near an hour reaching the platform in front of the ducal palace, -thronged as usual with a variety of nations. I mixed a moment with the -crowd; then directed my steps to the great mosque, I ought to say the -church of St. Mark; but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and -semicircular arches, have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse this -appellation. I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of bronze -and gold that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one glance, -the whole extent of the piazza, with its towers and standards. A more -noble assemblage was never exhibited by architecture. I envied the good -fortune of Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a tournament -held in this princely opening.<a name="page_vol_1_113" id="page_vol_1_113"></a></p> - -<p>Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When Henry the -Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed through -Venice, and found the Senate waiting to receive him in their famous -square, which by means of an awning stretched from the balustrades of -opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling with -artificial stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. What -a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith of power and -luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to them, however, the Venetians -are indebted for the hint, since we read of the Coliseo and Pompey’s -theatre being sometimes covered with transparent canvas, to defend the -spectators from the heat or sudden rain, and to tint the scene with soft -agreeable colours.</p> - -<p>Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to enter -into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three -standards before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true -spirit of the antique, and covered with relievos, at once bold and -elegant. It is also to this celebrated architect we are indebted for the -stately façade of the <i>Procuratie nuove</i>, which<a name="page_vol_1_114" id="page_vol_1_114"></a> forms one side of the -square, and presents an uninterrupted series of arcades and marble -columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this magnificent range appears -another line of palaces, whose architecture, though far removed from the -Grecian elegance of Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the -pomp of the view.</p> - -<p>There is something strange and singular in the Tower or Campanile, which -rises distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the -left as you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark’s. The design is -barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet in spite of -these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful building called the -Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during the convocation of -the Grand Council, decorates its base. Nothing can be more enriched, -more finished than this structure; which, though far from diminutive, is -in a manner lost at the foot of the Campanile. This enormous fabric -seems to promise a long duration, and will probably exhibit Saint Mark -and his Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear in great state towards -its summit, and have nothing superior, but an archangel perched on the -topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the<a name="page_vol_1_115" id="page_vol_1_115"></a> skies. The dusk prevented my -remarking the various sculptures with which the Loggetta is crowded.</p> - -<p>Crossing the ample space between this graceful edifice and the ducal -palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the -principal court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible at -so late an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze richly sculptured diversify -the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps presents itself, by -which the senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, which lead -to the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues of Mars and Neptune -guard the entrance, and have given the appellation of <i>scala dei -giganti</i> to the steps below, which I mounted not without respect; and, -leaning against the balustrades, formed like the rest of the building of -the rarest marbles, contemplated the tutelary divinities.</p> - -<p>My admiration was shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or officers -of police, who take their stands after sunset before the avenues of the -palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point of being closed. -So, hurrying down the steps, I left a million of delicate sculptures -unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, every<a name="page_vol_1_116" id="page_vol_1_116"></a> entablature, is -encrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some other precious marble, -carved into as many grotesque wreaths of foliage as we admire in the -loggie of Raphael. The various portals, the strange projections; in -short, the striking irregularity of these stately piles, delighted me -beyond idea; and I was sorry to be forced to abandon them so soon, -especially as the twilight, which bats and owls love not better than I -do, enlarged every portico, lengthened every colonnade, and increased -the dimensions of the whole, just as imagination desired. This faculty -would have had full scope had I but remained an hour longer. The moon -would then have gleamed upon the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and -discovered the statues of ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of -their niches.</p> - -<p>Such an interesting combination of objects, such regal scenery, with the -reflection that many of their ornaments once contributed to the -decoration of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri thought -me distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about like an actor -in an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands<a name="page_vol_1_117" id="page_vol_1_117"></a> to the consecrated -fanes and images around, expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, -and declaiming the first verses of Œdipus Tyrannus.</p> - -<p>This fit of enthusiasm was hardly subsided, when I passed the gates of -the palace into the great square, which received a faint gleam from its -casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, and to become the -resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were walking in parties upon -the pavement; some sought the convenient gloom of the porticoes with -their favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, and -filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to drink -coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A thoughtless giddy -transport prevailed; for, at this hour, anything like restraint seems -perfectly out of the question; and however solemn a magistrate or -senator may appear in the day, at night he lays up wig and robe and -gravity to sleep together, runs intriguing about in his gondola, takes -the reigning sultana under his arm, and so rambles half over the town, -which grows gayer and gayer as the day declines.<a name="page_vol_1_118" id="page_vol_1_118"></a></p> - -<p>Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in some -out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families -are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel -undisturbed with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself -cannot discover the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected doors, -by which these retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, whose -mistress disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has searched -for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though the prime -managers of intrigue, are often unacquainted with these interior -cabinets. When a gallant has a mind to pursue his adventures with -mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders his bark to wait, meets his -goddess in the crowd, and vanishes from all beholders. Surely, Venice is -the city in the universe best calculated for giving scope to the -observations of a devil upon two sticks. What a variety of -lurking-places would one stroke of his crutch uncover!</p> - -<p>Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, the -rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and mountebanks,<a name="page_vol_1_119" id="page_vol_1_119"></a> -singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. I observed a -great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard Turkish and -Arabic muttering in every corner. Here the Sclavonian dialect -predominated; there some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. Had -Saint Mark’s church been the wondrous tower, and its piazza the chief -square, of the city of Babylon, there could scarcely have been a greater -confusion of languages.</p> - -<p>The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, and I -wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic to -another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, and -settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the same -breath. This instant I found myself in a circle of grave Armenian -priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, who -accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave proof that their -reputation for pliability and address was not ill-founded.</p> - -<p>I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian -counts or princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs,<a name="page_vol_1_120" id="page_vol_1_120"></a> and -footmen, and governors, and staring like me, about them, when Madame de -Rosenberg arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. She -presented me to some of the most distinguished of the Venetian families -at their great casino, which looks into the piazza, and consists of five -or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, neither rich nor elegant, -where were a great many lights, and a great many ladies negligently -dressed, their hair falling very freely about them, and innumerable -adventures written in their eyes. The gentlemen were lolling upon the -sofas, or lounging about the apartments.</p> - -<p>The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was -carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; and, -for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of pleasing -extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing remained -save cards and stupidity.</p> - -<p>In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the affairs -of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and two or three -of them asked some feeble questions about the late tumults in London. It -was one o’clock<a name="page_vol_1_121" id="page_vol_1_121"></a> before all the company were assembled, and I left them -at three, still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. Trieze is -their favourite game: <i>uno</i>, <i>due</i>, <i>tre</i>, <i>quatro</i>, <i>cinque</i>, <i>fante</i>, -<i>cavallo re</i>, are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other -sound.</p> - -<p>I wonder a lively people can endure such monotony, for I have been told -the Venetians are remarkably spirited; and so eager in the pursuit of -amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for instance, -after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the square, and -fidgeting about from one casino to another till morning dawns, will get -into a gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or -Fusina, and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, -and rattle back again as if the Devil were charioteer: by eleven the -party is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes to -council.</p> - -<p>This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as -examples of vivacity. Their nerves unstrung by early debaucheries, allow -no natural flow of lively spirits, and at best but a few moments of a -false and feverish activity. The<a name="page_vol_1_122" id="page_vol_1_122"></a> approaches of sleep, forced back by an -immoderate use of coffee, render them weak and listless, and the -facility of being wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds not a -little to their indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern -neighbours in a more lazy light; who, thanks to their opium and their -harems, pass their lives in one perpetual doze.<a name="page_vol_1_123" id="page_vol_1_123"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IV-italy" id="LETTER_IV-italy"></a>LETTER IV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Excessive heat.—The Devil and Senegal.—A dreary shore.—Scene of -the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.—Return to the Place of St. -Mark.—Swarm of Lawyers.—Receptacles for anonymous -accusations.—The Council of Ten.—Terrible punishments of its -victims.—Statue of Neptune.—Fatal Waters.—Bridge of Sighs.—The -Fondamenti Nuovi.—Conservatory of the Mendicanti.—An -Oratorio.—Profound attention of the Audience.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">August 4th, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> heats were so excessive in the night, that I thought myself several -times on the point of suffocation, tossed about like a wounded fish, and -dreamt of the Devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, a faint breeze -restored me to life and reason. I slumbered till late in the day, and -the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier to row out to the -main ocean, that I might plunge into the waves, and hear and see nothing -but waters around me.</p> - -<p>We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, casinos, -and palaces,<a name="page_vol_1_124" id="page_vol_1_124"></a> growing immediately out of the canals, without any -apparent foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to be seen -before the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the bark, and -the vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the waters, and -but just above their level. I observed several, as I glided along, -supported by rows of well-proportioned columns, adorned with terms and -vases, beyond which the eye generally discovers a grand court, and -sometimes a garden.</p> - -<p>In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles behind, -and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio Maggiore, -whose elegant frontispiece was distinctly reflected by the calm waters, -launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Carthusian -and two or three other woody islands. I hailed the spot where I had -passed such a happy visionary evening, and nodded to my friends the -pines.</p> - -<p>A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked over -by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go regularly -to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be hoped, to -paradise; as the air<a name="page_vol_1_125" id="page_vol_1_125"></a> of their barracks is abominable, and kills them -like blasted sheep.</p> - -<p>Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene of -the Doge’s pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the very spot to -which he sails in the Bucentaur, previously to wedding the sea. You have -heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen full -sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon the topic. -I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, partly, the same road as -the nuptial procession, in order to reach the beach, and was broiled and -dazzled accordingly.</p> - -<p>At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with toads -and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of being -interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless plains of -ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, extending on both -sides out of sight, and dashed into the waves, which were coursing one -another with a gentle motion, and breaking lightly on the shores. The -tide rolled over me as I lay floating about, buoyed up by the water, and -carried me wheresoever it listed. It might have borne me far out into -the main before I had been aware, so totally<a name="page_vol_1_126" id="page_vol_1_126"></a> was I abandoned to the -illusion of the moment. My ears were filled with murmuring undecided -sounds; my limbs, stretched languidly on the surge, rose or sunk just as -it swelled or subsided. In this passive state I remained, till the sun -cast a less intolerable light, and the fishing-vessels, lying out in the -bay at a great distance, spread their sails and were coming home.</p> - -<p>Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the -gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to those -venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. Directing my -course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the grand court, -ascending the giants’ stairs, and examined at my leisure its -bas-reliefs. Then, taking the first guide that presented himself, I was -shown along several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable -pillars, into the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo Veronese -have covered with the triumphs of their country.</p> - -<p>A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one of the -first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, before -a solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly seemed -equally affected.<a name="page_vol_1_127" id="page_vol_1_127"></a> Clouds of powder, and volleys of execrations issuing -every instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; and was led -from hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary -resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved with decency, -having never once expressed how much I wished the chefs-d’œuvre I had -been contemplating, less smoky and numerous.</p> - -<p>At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and caught -the sea-breeze in the open porticoes which front San Giorgio Maggiore. -The walls are covered in most places with grim visages sculptured in -marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow every lie that -malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few ears of the same -kind, dispersed about the Doge’s residence, to which one might apply -one’s own, and catch some account of the mysteries within; some little -dialogue between the three Inquisitors, or debate in the Council of Ten.</p> - -<p>This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual awe; -before which they appear with trembling and terror; and whose summons -they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it condemns its -victims to<a name="page_vol_1_128" id="page_vol_1_128"></a> perpetual imprisonment, in close, stifling cells, between -the leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood of a -fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under the -canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, its majesty -is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. What other sovereign could -endure the idea of having his immediate residence polluted with tears? -or revel in his halls, conscious that many of his species were consuming -their hours in lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams -separated him from the scene of their tortures? However gaily disposed, -could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath which lie damp and -gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away by painful degrees, and -feel themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, -I could not regard the palace without horror, and wished for the -strength of a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay open -the secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and sunshine -into every den.</p> - -<p>When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of -Neptune, whom twenty ages ago I should have invoked to second my<a name="page_vol_1_129" id="page_vol_1_129"></a> -enterprise. Once upon a time no deity had a freer hand at razing cities. -His execution was renowned throughout all antiquity, and the proudest -monarchs deprecated the wrath of <span title="Greek: KREIÔN ENOSICHTHÔN">KΡΕΙΩΝ ΕΝΟΣΙΧΘΩΝ</span>. But, like -the other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is past and his trident -disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit found favour in the eyes of -fortune, and was led along the career of glory to the deliverance of -captives and the extirpation of monsters; but, in our degenerate times, -this easy road to fame is no longer open, and the means of producing -such signal events are perplexed and difficult.</p> - -<p>Abandoning therefore the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, I left -the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal -overshadowed by the lofty walls of the palace. Beneath these fatal -waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of are situated. There the -wretches lie marking the sound of the oars, and counting the free -passage of every gondola. Above, a marble bridge, of bold majestic -architecture, joins the highest part of the prisons to the secret -galleries of the palace; from whence criminals are conducted over the -arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I shuddered whilst passing<a name="page_vol_1_130" id="page_vol_1_130"></a> below; -and believe it is not without cause, this structure is named PONTE DEI -SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I -could not dine in peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but -snatching my pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain -of fear and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful engines in -the style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and refreshed myself with the -cool air and cheerful scenery of the Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or -terrace of white marble, which commands the whole series of isles, from -San Michele to Torcello,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“That rise and glitter o’er the ambient tide.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas -which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now and -then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called Il -Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse.</p> - -<p>When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, M. -de Benincasa accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four -conservatorios, which give the best musical education conceivable to -near one hundred young women. You may imagine how admirably those<a name="page_vol_1_131" id="page_vol_1_131"></a> of -the Mendicanti in particular are taught, since their establishment is -under the direction of Bertoni, who breathes around him the very soul of -harmony. The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio was dark and -solemn; a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black marble and highly -polished, reflected the lamps which burn perpetually before the altar. -Every tribune was thronged with people, whose profound silence showed -them worthy auditors of this master’s music. Here were no cackling old -women, or groaning Methodists, such as infest our English tabernacles, -and scare one’s ears with hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso -obligato. All were still and attentive, imbibing the plaintive notes of -the voices with eagerness; and scarce a countenance but seemed deeply -affected with David’s sorrows, the subject of the performance. I sat -retired in a solitary tribune, and felt them as my own. Night came on -before the last chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its sacred -melody.<a name="page_vol_1_132" id="page_vol_1_132"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_V-italy" id="LETTER_V-italy"></a>LETTER V.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">M. de Viloison and his attendant Laplander.—Drawings of ancient -Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.—Titian’s -master-piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo.—The distant -Euganean hills.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">August 18, 1780.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> rains; the air is refreshed and I have courage to resume my pen, -which the sultry weather had forced to lie dormant so long. I like this -odd town of Venice, and find every day some new amusement in rambling -about its innumerable canals and alleys. Sometimes I pry about the great -church of Saint Mark, and examine the variety of marbles and mazes of -delicate sculpture with which it is covered. The cupola, glittering with -gold, mosaic, and paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never -fails to transport me to the period of the Eastern empire. I think -myself in Constantinople, and expect Michael Paleologus with all his -train.<a name="page_vol_1_133" id="page_vol_1_133"></a> One circumstance alone prevents my observing half the treasures -of the place, and holds down my fancy just springing into the air: I -mean the vile stench which exhales from every recess and corner of the -edifice, and which all the incense of the altars cannot subdue.</p> - -<p>When no longer able to endure this noxious atmosphere, I run up the -Campanile in the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the -gallery, breathe the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at -my leisure all Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and -long tracks of islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a -provision of wholesome breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, and -venture into the most curious and murky quarters of the city, in search -of Turks and Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I please -about Cairo and Damascus.</p> - -<p>Asiatics find Venice very much to their taste, and all those I conversed -with allowed its customs and style of living had a good deal of -conformity to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee-houses and -sipping of sorbets agree perfectly well with the inhabitants of the -Ottoman empire, who stalk about here in their proper dresses, and smoke -their own exotic pipes, without<a name="page_vol_1_134" id="page_vol_1_134"></a> being stared and wondered at as in most -other European capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative -and enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond the -rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile affairs.</p> - -<p>The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their -propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has been -lately translated into their modern language, and some obliging papa or -other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia into -a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on a stall, -under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went one day to -admire the antiques in its vestibules.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should -have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de Viloison, from a -place where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other -utensils were ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active -investigator of Homer since the days of the good bishop of Thessalonica, -bespatters you with more learning in a minute than others communicate in -half a year; quotes Arabic,<a name="page_vol_1_135" id="page_vol_1_135"></a> Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, &c. with formidable -fluency; and drove me from one end of the room to the other with a storm -of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than hail, and in an instant I -found myself so weighed down and covered, that I prayed, for mercy’s -sake, to be introduced, by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads -about as a curiosity; a poor harmless good sort of a soul, calm and -indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental languages to -perfection: ideas he has in none.</p> - -<p>We went all together to view a collection of medals in one of the -Gradanigo palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with -paintings that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that I -had an opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland -nothingness of my companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent as the -polar regions, not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not one -bright ray of fancy ever glittered in his mind; without love or anger, -pleasure or pain, his days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, -I must confess I envied such comfortable apathy.<a name="page_vol_1_136" id="page_vol_1_136"></a></p> - -<p>After having passed an instructive hour in examining the medals and -drawings, M. de Viloison proposed conducting me to the Armenian convent, -but I begged to be excused, and went to San Giovanni e Paolo, a church -to be held most holy in the annals of painting, since it contains that -masterpiece of Titian, the martyrdom of the hermits St. Paul and St. -Peter.</p> - -<p>In the evening I rowed out as usual</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea,”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">to observe the effect of sunset on the tufted gardens of the Giudeca, -and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the happiest region -of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the simplicity of a pastoral -life, long before the arrival of Antenor. In these primeval days deep -forests and extensive pastures covered the shores of the Adriatic, and -innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. This golden period -ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and Heneti; who, led by Antenor, -drove away the unfortunate savages, and possessed themselves of their -habitations.<a name="page_vol_1_137" id="page_vol_1_137"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VI-italy" id="LETTER_VI-italy"></a>LETTER VI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.—The once populous city of -Altina.—An excursion.—Effects of our music on the inhabitants of -the Islands.—Solitary fields infested by serpents.—Remains of -ancient sculpture.—Antique and fantastic ornaments of the -Cathedral of Torcello.—San Lorenzo’s chair.—Dine in a -Convent.—The Nuns.—Oratorio of Sisera.—Remarks on the -music.—Singing of the Marchetti.—A female orchestra.</p></div> - -<p>I am just returned from visiting the isles of Burano, Torcello, and -Mazorbo, distant about five miles from Venice. To these amphibious spots -the Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, fled from the rapine of -Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, there was a time when they -presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond them, on the coast of the -Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, with its six stately -gates, which Dandolo mentions. Its neighbourhood was scattered with -innumerable villas and temples, composing altogether a prospect which -Martial compares to Baiæ:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Æmula Baianis Altini littora villis.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p><a name="page_vol_1_138" id="page_vol_1_138"></a></p> - -<p>But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely away, -and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and mis-shapen fragments, -to vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, Costanziaco -and Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the bowers and gardens -of the Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; those which remain are -scarcely worthy to rise above their surface.</p> - -<p>Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I could -not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of the earth -once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the roofs, perhaps, -of undiscovered palaces. M. de R. to whom I communicated my ideas, -entered at once into the scheme; hiring therefore a <i>peiotte</i>, we took -some provisions and music (to us equally necessaries of life) and -launched into the canal, between Saint Michael and Murano. Our -instruments played several delightful airs, that called forth the -inhabitants of every island, and held them in silence, as if -spell-bound, on the edge of their quays and terraces, till we were out -of hearing.</p> - -<p>Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its<a name="page_vol_1_139" id="page_vol_1_139"></a> world of turrets began to -sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie -stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of purple flowers, -and could distinguish the low hum of the insects which hover above them; -such was the stillness of the place. Coasting these solitary fields, we -wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered by gardens of figs and -pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures of cane and reed: an -aromatic plant, which the people justly dignify with the title of marine -incense, clothes the margin of the waters. It proved very serviceable in -subduing a musky odour, which attacked us the moment we landed, and -which proceeds from serpents that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say -the gondoliers, defend immense treasures which lie buried under the -ruins. Woe to those who attempt to invade them, or to pry too cautiously -about!</p> - -<p>Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mound of fragments -unnoticed, and made the best of our way to a little green, bounded on -one side by a miserable shed, decorated with the name of the Podesta’s -residence, and on the other by a circular church. Some remains<a name="page_vol_1_140" id="page_vol_1_140"></a> of -tolerable antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; and the dome, -supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though uncouth and -ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and transports the -fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it was raised.</p> - -<p>Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career to our -imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil composed of -crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose arches, in the -ancient Roman style, convinced us that it dates at least as high as the -sixth or seventh century.</p> - -<p>Nothing can well be more fantastic than the ornaments of this structure, -formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and encrusted with -a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the Confessor’s tomb. -The pavement, composed of various precious marbles, is richer and more -beautiful than one could have expected, in a place where every other -object savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther end, beyond the -altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like the gradines of a -diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms of the apostles, in -red, blue, green, and<a name="page_vol_1_141" id="page_vol_1_141"></a> black mosaic, and in the midst of the group a -sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, where Saint Lorenzo -Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the Lord knows how long -ago! The fount for holy water stands by the principal entrance, fronting -this curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some place of Gentile -worship. The figures of horned imps clinging round its sides, more -devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever beheld. The dragons on old -china are not more whimsical; filled with bats’ blood it would have been -an admirable present to the sabbath of witches, and have cut a capital -figure in their orgies. The sculpture is not the most delicate, but I -cannot say a great deal about it, as very little light reaches the spot -where it is fixed: indeed, the whole church is far from luminous, its -windows being narrow and near the roof, with shutters composed of blocks -of marble, which nothing but the whirlwinds of the last day, one should -think, would move from their hinges.</p> - -<p>By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular -edifice, and tried to catch some small portion of sanctity by sitting in -San Lorenzo’s chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring<a name="page_vol_1_142" id="page_vol_1_142"></a> convent, and -the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, peeped out of -their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the grate. Some few -agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark sisterhood; all -seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the music; two or three of -them, probably the last immured, let fall a tear, and suffered the -recollection of the world and its profane joys to interrupt for a moment -their sacred tranquillity.</p> - -<p>We stayed till the sun was low, on purpose that they might listen as -long as possible to a harmony which seemed to issue, as the old abbess -expressed herself, from the gates of paradise ajar. A thousand -benedictions consecrated our departure; twilight came on just as we -entered the bark and rowed out upon the waves, agitated by a fresh gale, -but fearing nothing under the protection of Santa Margherita, whose good -wishes our music had secured.</p> - -<p>In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went -immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the oratorio -of Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great fire and -originality in this<a name="page_vol_1_143" id="page_vol_1_143"></a> performance; and a knowledge of character seldom -found in the most celebrated masters. The supplication of the thirsty -chieftain, and Jael’s insinuating arts and pious treachery, are -admirably expressed; but the agitation and boding slumbers which precede -his death, are imagined in the highest strain of genius. The terror and -agony of his dreams made me start, more than once, from my seat; and all -the horrors of his assassination seemed full before me.</p> - -<p>Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the part of -Sisera, and seconded the composer’s ideas by the most feeling and -spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret more on leaving -Venice, than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I fly to -it, and hear the most striking finales in Paesiello’s and Anfossi’s -operas, as long and often as I please.</p> - -<p>The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, I suppose, it -is entirely of the feminine gender, and that nothing is more common than -to see a delicate white hand journeying across an enormous double bass, -or a pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, at a French -horn. Some that are grown old and<a name="page_vol_1_144" id="page_vol_1_144"></a> Amazonian, who have abandoned their -fiddles and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettle-drum; and one -poor limping lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an admirable -figure on the bassoon.</p> - -<p>Good night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for this -angelic choir. The poetry I send you. The music takes up too much room -to travel at present. One day or other, perhaps, we may hear it in some -dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed and nature in alarm.</p> - -<p>This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, were I not -hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in Bertoni’s -opera of Quinto Fabio.<a name="page_vol_1_145" id="page_vol_1_145"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VII-italy" id="LETTER_VII-italy"></a>LETTER VII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Coast of Fusina.—The Brenta.—A Village of -Palaces.—Fiesso.—Exquisite singing of the Galuzzi.—Marietta -Cornaro.—Scenes of enchantment and fascination.</p></div> - -<p>I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my peaceful excursions upon -the Adriatic. No bright rays illuminated my departure, the sun was -concealed in clouds; but the coolness and perfume of the air made ample -amends for his absence.</p> - -<p>About an hour’s rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, brought -us to the coast of Fusina, right opposite the opening where the Brenta -mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between banks of verdure, -crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every stalk, and depending -from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint and iris clothe -the brink of the stream, except where interrupted by a tall<a name="page_vol_1_146" id="page_vol_1_146"></a> growth of -reeds and osiers. The morning continued to lower as we advanced; scarce -a wind ventured to breathe: all was still and placid as the surface of -the river. No sound struck my ears except the bargemen hallooing to open -the sluices, and deepen the water.</p> - -<p>As yet I had not perceived an habitation, nor any other objects than -green inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and -poplars. It grew late before we glided along by the Mira, a village of -palaces, whose courts and gardens, as magnificent as statues, terraces, -and vases can make them, are far from composing a rural prospect.</p> - -<p>Such artificial scenery not engaging much of my attention, we stayed no -longer than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before -sunset. Passing the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering -noise, we continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its -broad full stream through impenetrable copses. Day was about to close -when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty evening, I could scarcely -distinguish the pompous façade of the Pisani palace. That of Cornaro, -where we were engaged to sup, looks upon a broad mass of foliage<a name="page_vol_1_147" id="page_vol_1_147"></a> which -I contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the dusk.</p> - -<p>We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the entrance, -breathing the freshness of the wood after a shower which had lately -fallen. The Galuzzi sang some of her father Ferandini’s compositions -with surprising energy; her cheek was flushed, her eyes glistened; the -whole tone of her countenance was that of a person rapt and inspired. I -forgot both time and place while she was singing. The night stole -imperceptibly away, before I awoke from my trance.</p> - -<p>I do not recollect ever to have passed an evening, which every -circumstance conspired to render so full of charm. In general, my -musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the phlegm and -stupidity of my neighbourhood; but here, every one seemed to catch the -flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. Marietta Cornaro, whose -lively talents are the boast of the Venetians, threw quick around her -the glancing fires of genius.</p> - -<p>What with the song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual meteors, I -scarcely knew to what element I was transported, and doubted for -several<a name="page_vol_1_148" id="page_vol_1_148"></a> moments, whether I was not fallen into a celestial dream: to -wake was painful, and it was not without much lingering reluctance I -left these scenes of enchantment and fascination, repeating with -melancholy earnestness that pathetic sonnet of Petrarch’s—</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">O stelle congiurate a’ impoverirme!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Partend’ io, per non esser mai contento?<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p><a name="page_vol_1_149" id="page_vol_1_149"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VIII-italy" id="LETTER_VIII-italy"></a>LETTER VIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Reveries.—Walls of Padua.—Confused Pile dedicated to Saint -Anthony.—Devotion at his Shrine.—Penitential -Worshippers.—Magnificent Altar.—Sculpture of Sansovino.—Colossal -Chamber like Noah’s Ark.</p></div> - -<p>The splendour of the rising sun, for once in my life, drew little of my -attention. I was too deeply plunged in my reveries, to notice the -landscape which lay before me; and the walls of Padua presented -themselves some time ere I was aware. At any other moment, how sensibly -should I have been affected with their appearance! How many ideas of -Antenor and his Trojans, would have thronged into my memory! but now I -regarded the scene with indifference, and passed many a palace, and many -a woody garden, with my eyes riveted to the ground. The first object -that appeared upon lifting them up, was a confused pile of spires and -cupolas, dedicated to blessed Saint Anthony, one of whose most eloquent -sermons the great Addison has<a name="page_vol_1_150" id="page_vol_1_150"></a> translated <i>con amore</i>, and in his very -best manner.</p> - -<p>You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained -for this inspired preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to his -shrine. Mine was a disturbed spirit, and required all the balm of Saint -Anthony’s kindness to appease it. Perhaps you will say I had better have -gone to bed, and applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. -It is probable that you are in the right; but I could not retire to rest -without first venting some portion of effervescence in sighs and -supplications. The nave was filled with decrepit women and feeble -children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and other provisions; which, -by good Anthony’s interposition, they hoped to sell advantageously in -the course of the day. Beyond these, nearer the choir, and in a gloomier -part of the edifice, knelt a row of rueful penitents, smiting their -breasts, and lifting their eyes to heaven. Further on, in front of the -dark recess, where the sacred relics are deposited, a few desperate, -melancholy sinners lay prostrate.</p> - -<p>To these I joined myself. The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this -religious quarter;<a name="page_vol_1_151" id="page_vol_1_151"></a> and the only light it received proceeded from the -golden lamps, which hang in clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, -decked with the most lavish magnificence, supports the shrine. Those who -are profoundly touched with its sanctity, may approach, and walking -round, look through the crevices of the tomb, which, it is observed, -exude a balsamic odour. But supposing a traveller ever so heretical, I -would advise him by no means to neglect this pilgrimage; since every -part of the recess he visits is decorated with exquisite sculptures. -Sansovino and other renowned artists have vied with each other in -carving the alto relievos of the arcade, which, for design and -execution, would do honour to the sculptors of antiquity.</p> - -<p>Having observed these objects with less exactness than they merited, I -hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am -acquainted with. Here I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. It is -true my slumbers were not a little agitated. The saint had been deaf to -my prayer, and I still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal.</p> - -<p>At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards scarcely knowing, nor much -caring, what became<a name="page_vol_1_152" id="page_vol_1_152"></a> of us, we strolled to the great hall of the town; -an enormous edifice, larger considerably than that of Westminster, but -free from stalls, or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one -spacious vault of brown timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still -increased by the lateness of the hour, and not diminished by the wan -light, admitted through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and -shape of this colossal chamber, the arching of the roof, with enormous -rafters stretching across it, and, above all, the watery gleams that -glanced through the dull casements, possessed my fancy with ideas of -Noah’s ark, and almost persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary vessel. -The representation one sees of it in many an old Dutch Bible, seems to -be formed upon this very model, and for several moments I indulged the -chimera of imagining myself confined within its precincts. Could I but -choose my companions, I should have no great objection to encounter a -deluge, and to float away a few months upon the waves!</p> - -<p>We remained till night walking to and fro in the ark; it was then full -time to retire, as the guardian of the place was by no means formed to -divine our diluvian ideas.<a name="page_vol_1_153" id="page_vol_1_153"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IX-italy" id="LETTER_IX-italy"></a>LETTER IX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Church of St. Justina.—Tombs of remote antiquity.—Ridiculous -attitudes of rheumatic devotees.—Turini’s music.—Another -excursion to Fiesso.—Journey to the Euganean hills.—Newly -discovered ruins.—High Mass in the great Church of Saint -Anthony.—A thunder-storm.—Palladio’s Theatre at -Vicenza.—Verona.—An aërial chamber.—Striking prospect from -it.—The Amphitheatre.—Its interior.—Leave Verona.—Country -between that town and Mantua.—German soldiers.—Remains of the -palace of the Gonzagas.—Paintings of Julio Romano.—A ruined -garden.—Subterranean apartments.</p></div> - -<p>Immediately after breakfast we went to St. Justina’s. Both extremities -of the cross aisles are terminated by altar-tombs of very remote -antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of the evangelists, supported -by wreathed columns of alabaster, round which, to my no small -astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were waddling on their knees, -persuaded, it seems, that this strange devotion would cure the -rheumatism, or any other aches with which they were afflicted. You can -have no conception of the ridiculous<a name="page_vol_1_154" id="page_vol_1_154"></a> attitudes into which they threw -themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, between -the middle column of the tomb and those which surround it. No criminal -in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful appearance, no swine ever -scrubbed itself more fervently than these infatuated lubbers.</p> - -<p>I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their lot -for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to -Turini’s<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious tones -of the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by the -echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful effect. -Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions with great -intelligence to the place. Nothing can be more original than his style. -Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower of his days, he -gave up his entire soul to music, and can scarcely be said to exist, but -from its mediums.</p> - -<p>When we came out of St. Justina’s, the azure of the sky and the softness -of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. Where could I wish to -go, but to the place in which I<a name="page_vol_1_155" id="page_vol_1_155"></a> had been so delighted? Besides, it was -proper to make the Cornaro another visit, and proper to see the Pisani -palace, which happily I had before neglected. All these proprieties -considered, Madame de R. accompanied me to Fiesso.</p> - -<p>The sun was just sunk when we arrived. The whole ether in a glow, and -the fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath them I -walked in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting -melody. She sang till the fineness of the weather tempted us to quit the -palace for the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned upon the -woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a scene naturally -peaceful.</p> - -<p>We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had most -affected me, morning began to dawn.</p> - -<p class="rht">September 8th.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> want of sound repose, after my return home, had thrown me into a -feverish and impatient mood. I had scarcely snatched some slight -refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina’s; but -tried this time to compose myself, in vain.</p> - -<p>Madame de Rosenberg, finding my endeavours<a name="page_vol_1_156" id="page_vol_1_156"></a> unsuccessful, proposed, by -way of diverting my attention, that we should set out immediately for -one of the Euganean hills, about six or seven miles from Padua, at the -foot of which some antique baths had been very lately discovered. I -consented without hesitation, little concerned whither I went, or what -happened to me, provided the scene was often shifted. The lanes and -inclosures we passed, in our road to the hills, appeared in all the -gaiety that verdure, flowers, and sunshine could give them. But my -pleasures were overcast, and I beheld every object, however cheerful, -through a dusky medium.</p> - -<p>Deeply engaged in conversation, distance made no impression, and I found -myself entering the meadow, over which the ruins are scattered, whilst I -imagined myself several miles distant. No scene could be more smiling -than this which here presented itself, or answer, in a fuller degree, -the ideas I had always formed of Italy.</p> - -<p>Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the meadow, we traversed its -surface, and shortly perceived among the grass, an oblong basin, -incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large and -perfect, apparently brought<a name="page_vol_1_157" id="page_vol_1_157"></a> from Greece, and still retaining their -polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still perfectly -discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. Near -the principal bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular -apartments, paved with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from -inelegant. Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the -freshness of the ruin everywhere shows that it has not long been -exposed.</p> - -<p>Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; and -Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to maintain -the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any learned -parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with all its -importance, to calmer and less impatient minds.</p> - -<p>Having taken a cursory view of the ruins, we ascended the hill just -above them, and surveyed a prospect of the same nature, though in a more -lovely and expanded style than that which I beheld from Mosolente. Padua -crowns the landscape, with its towers and cupolas rising from a -continued grove; and, from the drawings I have<a name="page_vol_1_158" id="page_vol_1_158"></a> seen, I should -conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of a similar appearance.</p> - -<p>Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we brought them home to the -fragments beneath our feet. The walls exhibit the <i>opus reticulatum</i>, so -common in the environs of Naples. A sort of terrace, with the remaining -bases of columns which encircle the hill, leads me to imagine here were -formerly arcades and porticos, constructed for enjoying the view; for on -the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable edifice, and am -therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more than a colonnade -surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight fane, or pavilion, -for the recreation of the bathers below.</p> - -<p>A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled -additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour approached, -which was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, and to restore -the tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But now it diffused its -reviving coolness in vain, and I remained, if possible, more sad and -restless than before.</p> - -<p class="rht">September 9th.</p> - -<p>Y<small>OU</small> may imagine how I felt when the hour of leaving Padua drew near. It -happened to<a name="page_vol_1_159" id="page_vol_1_159"></a> be a festival, and high mass was celebrated at the great -church of Saint Anthony in all its splendour. The ceremony was about -half over when such a peal of thunder reverberated through the vaults -and cupolas, as I expected would have shaken them to their foundations. -The principal dome appeared invested with a sheet of fire; and the -effect of terror produced upon the majority of the congregation, by this -sudden lighting up of the most gloomy recesses of the edifice, was so -violent that they rushed out in the wildest confusion. Had my faith been -less lively, I should have followed their example; but, absorbed in the -thought of a separation from those to whom I felt fondly attached, I -remained till the ceremony ended; then took leave of Madame de R. with -heartfelt regret, and was driven away to Vicenza.</p> - -<p class="rht">September 10th.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> morning being overcast, I went to Palladio’s theatre. It is -impossible to conceive a structure more truly classical, or to point out -a single ornament which has not the best antique authority. I am not in -the least surprised that the citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave -in to this great architect’s plan,<a name="page_vol_1_160" id="page_vol_1_160"></a> and sacrificed large sums to erect -so beautiful a model. When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, -the representation of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic -decorations.</p> - -<p>After I had mused a long while in the most retired recess of the -edifice, fancying I had penetrated into a real and perfect monument of -antiquity, which till this moment had remained undiscovered, we set out -for Verona. The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of -battlemented walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a -grand irregular sweep, and incloses the city with many a woody garden, -and grove of slender cypress. Beyond rises a group of mountains; -opposite to which a plain presents itself, decked with all the variety -of meads and thickets, olive-grounds and vineyards.</p> - -<p>Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, and -passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) to the -inn, a lofty handsome-looking building; but so full that we were obliged -to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to all the winds, -like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions,<a name="page_vol_1_161" id="page_vol_1_161"></a> and commanding the roofs of -half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up amongst them, and the shady -hills, terminating the perspective of walls and turrets, formed a -romantic scene.</p> - -<p>Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater -freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Guarda, and the delicious -fruits of the country. Thus did I remain, solacing myself, breathing the -cool air, and remarking the tints of the mountains. Neither paintings -nor antiques could tempt me from my aërial situation; I refused hunting -out the famous works of Paul Veronese scattered over the town, and sat -like the owl in the Georgics,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Solis et occasum servans de culmine summo.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing down stairs, enquired -for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the most entire -monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead of bringing me -a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a professed antiquary, -one of those precise plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have -so capital an aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little -erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with -eternal<a name="page_vol_1_162" id="page_vol_1_162"></a> fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of conduits, and -knew to admiration how the filthiness of all the amphitheatre was -disposed of.</p> - -<p>But perceiving my inattention, and having just grace enough to remark -that I chose one side of the street when he preferred the other, and -sometimes trotted through despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty -bow, I threw him half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed -a gloomy arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf covers -its surface, from which a spacious sweep of gradines rises to a majestic -elevation. Four arches, with their simple Doric ornament, alone remain -of the grand circular arcade which once crowned the highest seats of the -amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of the -structure would have equally resisted the ravages of time. Nothing can -be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not a block has -sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries they may have -received have been carefully repaired. The two chief entrances are -rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage being permitted -through the amphitheatre<a name="page_vol_1_163" id="page_vol_1_163"></a> except at public shows and representations, -sometimes still given in the arena.</p> - -<p>When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed, and nothing -moved, except the weeds and grasses which skirt the walls and tremble -with the faintest breeze. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle -of the arena, I enjoyed the freedom of my situation, its profound -stillness and solitude. How long I remained shut in by endless gradines -on every side, wrapped as it were in the recollections of perished ages, -is not worth noting down; but when I passed from the amphitheatre to the -opening before it, night was drawing on, and the grand outline of a -terrific feudal fortress, once inhabited by the Scaligeri, alone dimly -visible.</p> - -<p class="rht">September 11th.</p> - -<p>T<small>RAVERSING</small> once more the grand piazza, and casting a last glance upon -the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty arch which terminates the -perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, picturesque street, -commanding, whenever you look back, a striking scene of towers, cypress, -and mountains.</p> - -<p>The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one -continued grove of<a name="page_vol_1_164" id="page_vol_1_164"></a> dwarfish mulberries, with here and there a knot of -poplars, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself rises out of a -morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so choked -up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It requires a creative -imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and a strong -prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where Virgil was born.</p> - -<p>The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what -croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea being -scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and refused -stirring out till late in the evening.</p> - -<p>A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the -Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, and was -amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by the bold pencil of -Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and the arabesques, with -which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal those of the Vatican. Being -painted in fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their -number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away.<a name="page_vol_1_165" id="page_vol_1_165"></a></p> - -<p>The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the -purity and gracefulness of Raphael; the story of Polypheme is very -conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his beloved Galatea, on the -shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic enemy, seated above on the -brow of Ætna, seems by the paleness and horrors of his countenance to -meditate some terrible revenge.</p> - -<p>When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked into -a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with -fountains and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst -weeds and beds of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered -with vegetation. Here nettles grow thick and rampant; there, tuberoses -and jessamine spring from mounds of ruins, which during the elegant -reign of the Gonzagas led to grottoes and subterranean apartments, -concealed from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most refined enjoyments.<a name="page_vol_1_166" id="page_vol_1_166"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_X-italy" id="LETTER_X-italy"></a>LETTER X.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Cross the Po.—A woody country.—The Vintage.—Reggio.—Ridge of -the Apennines.—Romantic ideas connected with those -mountains.—Arrive at Modena.—Road to Bologna.—Magnificent -Convent of Madonna del Monte.—Natural and political commotions in -Bologna.—Proceed towards the mountains.—Dreary prospects.—The -scenery improves.—Herds of goats.—A run with them.—Return to the -carriage.—Wretched hamlet.—Miserable repast.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">September 12th, 1780.</p> - -<p>A <small>SHOWER</small>, having fallen, the air was refreshed, and the drops still -glittered upon the vines, through which our road conducted us. Three or -four miles from Mantua the scene changed to extensive grounds of rice, -and meads of the tenderest verdure watered by springs, whose frequent -meanders gave to the whole prospect the appearance of a vast green -carpet shot with silver. Further on we crossed the Po, and passing -Guastalla, entered a woody country full of inclosures and villages; -herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry parading before every wicket.<a name="page_vol_1_167" id="page_vol_1_167"></a></p> - -<p>The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon the -elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that hang -streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised to find -myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every road -crowded with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine a -pleasanter scene.</p> - -<p>Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of that -sketch-inviting little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus -might have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, -swarming with bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, enabled us to -pass too rapidly through so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of -fields and copses as we were driven along, that could have afforded me -amusement for hours, and orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I -could have walked till evening. The trees literally bent under their -loads of fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the -ground.</p> - -<p>Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional -splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the irregular -ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a<a name="page_vol_1_168" id="page_vol_1_168"></a> striking contrast -to the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed my eyes on the chain -of distant mountains, and indulged a thousand romantic conjectures of -what was passing in their recesses—hermits absorbed in -prayer—beautiful Contadine fetching water from springs, and banditti -conveying their victims, perhaps at this very moment, to caves and -fastnesses.</p> - -<p>Such were the dreams that filled my fancy, and kept it incessantly -employed till it was dusk, and the moon began to show herself; the same -moon which but a few nights ago had seen me so happy at Fiesso. I left -the carriage, and running into the dim haze, abandoned myself to the -recollections it excited....</p> - -<p>At length, having wandered where chance or the wildness of my fancy led, -till the lateness of the evening alarmed me, I regained the chaise as -fast as I could, and arrived between twelve and one at Modena, the place -of my destination.</p> - -<p class="rht">September 13th.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose richness -and fertility encreased in proportion as we drew near that celebrated -mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain<a name="page_vol_1_169" id="page_vol_1_169"></a> of hills commands the city, -variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable. On the highest -acclivity of this range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna del -Monte, embosomed in wood and joined to the town by a corridor a league -in length. This vast portico ascending the steeps and winding amongst -the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes visible, produces an -effect wonderfully grand and singular. I longed to have mounted the -height by so extraordinary a passage; and hope on some future day to be -better acquainted with Santa Maria del Monte.</p> - -<p>At present I have very little indeed to say about Bologna (where I -passed only two hours) except that it is sadly out of humour, an -earthquake and Cardinal Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and -people. For half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these -last six months, the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched -incessantly; so that, between natural and political commotions, the -Bolognese must have passed an agreeable summer.</p> - -<p>Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not -likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to another -opportunity, and proceeded immediately after<a name="page_vol_1_170" id="page_vol_1_170"></a> dinner towards the -mountains. We were soon in the midst of crags and stony channels, that -stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, but during the -summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half the scorpions in -the country.</p> - -<p>For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but dreary -hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than those to -which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or chapel peeped out -of the parched fern and grasses, with which these desolate fields are -clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim trudging along, -and staring about him as if he waited only for night and opportunity to -have additional reasons for hurrying to Loretto.</p> - -<p>During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene -increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second -post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green valleys -at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, scattered over -with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which the nakedness of the -impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides of the cliffs in general -consist of rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth and -verdant, and continually browsed by herds<a name="page_vol_1_171" id="page_vol_1_171"></a> of white goats, which were -gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed beneath.</p> - -<p>I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were stretched -by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a few minutes -whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare me with all -their horns. Being tired with skipping and butting at me in vain, the -whole herd trotted away, and I after them. They led me a dance from crag -to crag and from thicket to thicket.</p> - -<p>It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend from -the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what monster -inhabited such retirements, so gave over my pursuit lest some Polypheme -or other might make me repent it. I looked around, the carriage was out -of sight; but hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, I soon came -up with them, and mounted another rapid ascent, from whence an extensive -tract of cliff and forest land was discernible.</p> - -<p>A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, and made a -dismal rustle amongst the woods of chesnut that hung on the mountain’s -side, through which we were forced to pass. Walking out of the sound of -the carriage, I began interpreting<a name="page_vol_1_172" id="page_vol_1_172"></a> the language of the leaves, not -greatly to my own advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was -no prophet of good, and had I but commanded an oracle, as ancient -visionaries were wont, I should have flung mischief about me.</p> - -<p>How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, but -believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular forest, and -saw faintly before us an assemblage of miserable huts, where we were to -sleep. This wretched hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak -mountain, and every gust that stirs, shakes the whole village to its -foundations. At our approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns and -invited us with a grin, which I shall always remember, to a dish of -mustard and crows’ gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of -tasting, lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, condemned to -mope eternally on the black rafters of the cottage.</p> - -<p>After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots to -make a fire. Pitching my bed in a warm corner I soon fell asleep, and -forgot all my cares and inquietudes.<a name="page_vol_1_173" id="page_vol_1_173"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XI-italy" id="LETTER_XI-italy"></a>LETTER XI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A sterile region.—Our descent into a milder landscape.—Distant -view of Florence.—Moonlight effect.—Visit the Gallery.—Relics of -ancient credulity.—Paintings.—A Medusa’s head by Leonardo da -Vinci.—Curious picture by Polemberg.—The Venus de -Medicis.—Exquisitely sculptured figure of Morpheus.—Vast -Cathedral.—Garden of Boboli.—Views from different parts of -it.—Its resemblance to an antique Roman garden.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">September 14th, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> sun had not been long above the horizon, before we set forward upon -a craggy pavement hewn out of rough cliffs and precipices. Scarcely a -tree was visible, and the few that presented themselves began already to -shed their leaves. The raw nipping air of this desert with difficulty -spares a blade of vegetation; and in the whole range of these extensive -eminences I could not discover a single corn-field or pasture. -Inhabitants, you may guess, there were none. I would defy even a Scotch -highlander to find means of subsistence in so rude a soil.<a name="page_vol_1_174" id="page_vol_1_174"></a></p> - -<p>Towards mid-day, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, -and began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved as well -as the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, we saw -groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string of mules -and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and peaches from this -little caravan, and spread my repast upon a bank, in the midst of -lavender bushes in full bloom.</p> - -<p>Continuing our route, we bade adieu to the realms of poverty and -barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale, shaded by woody acclivities. -Amongst these we wound along, between groves of poplar and cypress, till -late in the evening. Upon winding a hill we discovered Florence at a -distance surrounded with gardens and terraces rising one above another; -the full moon seemed to shine with a peculiar charm upon this favoured -region. Her serene light on the pale grey of the olive, gave a visionary -and Elysian appearance to the landscape, and I was sorry when I found -myself excluded from it by the gates of Florence.</p> - -<p>I slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it was time next -morning (Sept. 15,) to visit the gallery, and worship the Venus de -Medicis.<a name="page_vol_1_175" id="page_vol_1_175"></a> I felt, upon entering this world of refinement, as if I could -have taken up my abode in it for ever, but, confused with the multitude -of objects, I knew not on which first to bend my attention, and ran -childishly by the ample ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a -parterre, that skims before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers.</p> - -<p>Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the angle -and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with -master-pieces of bronze and marble. A minute brought me to the extremity -of this range, vast as it was; then, flying down a third, adorned in the -same delightful manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and -began to reflect a little more maturely upon the company in which I -found myself. Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, -breathing divinity: and Cybele, the mother of the gods.</p> - -<p>Having regarded these powers with due veneration, I next cast my eyes -upon a black figure, whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of -sleep. You know my fondness for this drowsy personage, and that it is -not the first time I have quitted the most splendid society for him. I -found him at present, of touchstone, with the<a name="page_vol_1_176" id="page_vol_1_176"></a> countenance of a towardly -brat, sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist had not conceived -very poetical ideas of the god, or else he never would have represented -him with so little grace and dignity.</p> - -<p>Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived the -transports of enthusiasm beginning to subside, and felt myself calm -enough to follow the herd of guides and spectators from chamber to -chamber, cabinet to cabinet, without falling into errors of rapture and -admiration. We were led slowly and moderately through the large rooms, -containing the portraits of painters, good, bad, and indifferent, from -Raphael to Liotard; then into a museum of bronzes, which would afford -both amusement and instruction for years.</p> - -<p>When I had rather alarmed than satisfied my curiosity by rapidly running -over a multitude of candelabrums, urns, and sacred utensils, we entered -a small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly decorated, and -filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship in bronze and -various metals, classed in exact order. Here are crowds of diminutive -deities and tutelary lars, to whom the superstition of former days<a name="page_vol_1_177" id="page_vol_1_177"></a> -attributed those midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the -misfortunes of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are -preserved a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and other -grotesque relics of ancient credulity.</p> - -<p>In the centre of the room I remarked a table, beautifully formed of -polished gems, and, near it, the statue of a genius with his familiar -serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the treasured -antiquities. From this chamber we were conducted into another, which -opens to that part of the gallery where the busts of Adrian and Antinous -are placed. Two pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of -ancient armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several -perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of oriental -alabaster about ten feet in height,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Lucido e terso, e bianco, più che latte.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>I put my guide’s patience to the proof, by lingering to admire the -column and cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are impregnated, -obliged me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of saloons, with low -arched roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure and gold. Several<a name="page_vol_1_178" id="page_vol_1_178"></a> -medallions appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably well -painted, with representations of splendid feasts and tournaments for -which Florence was once so famous.</p> - -<p>A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers the -walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than a Medusa’s -head by Leonardo da Vinci. It appears just severed from the body and -cast on the damp pavement of a cavern: a deadly paleness covers the -countenance, and the mouth exhales a pestilential vapour; the snakes, -which fill almost the whole picture, beginning to untwist their folds; -one or two seemed already crept away, and crawling up the rock in -company with toads and other venomous reptiles.</p> - -<p>Here are a great many Polembergs: one in particular, the strangest I -ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls he is -in general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject Virgil -ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst the ruins -of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. These -mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying upon the -damned. One capital devil, in the form of<a name="page_vol_1_179" id="page_vol_1_179"></a> an enormous lobster, seems -very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable mortal, who sprawls, -though in vain, to escape from his claws. This performance, whimsical as -it is, retains all that softness of tint and delicacy of pencil for -which Polemberg is so renowned.</p> - -<p>Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the painter’s choice, I -should have passed over this picture, like a thousand more, and have -brought you immediately to the tribune. Need I say I was spell-bound the -moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus de -Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a beauty no copy -has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs exceeded the liveliest -idea I had formed to myself of their perfection.</p> - -<p>When I had taken my eyes reluctantly away from this beautiful object, I -cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at the -feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant lion -serves him for a pillow; two ample wings, carved with the utmost -delicacy, are gathered under him; two others, budding from his temples, -half-concealed by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid hands scarcely<a name="page_vol_1_180" id="page_vol_1_180"></a> -hold a bunch of poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding to his -influence. Nothing can be more just than the expression of sleep in the -countenance of the little divinity. His lion too is perfectly lulled, -and rests his muzzle upon his fore paws as quiet as a domestic spaniel. -My ill-humour at seeing this deity so grossly sculptured in the gallery, -was dissipated by the gracefulness of his appearance in the tribune. I -was now contented, for the artist had realized my ideas; and, if I may -venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher perfection, and, -at the same time, kept more justly within its province. Sleeping figures -with me always produce the finest illusion; but when I see an archer in -the very act of discharging his arrow, a dancer with one foot in the -air, or a gladiator extending his fist to all eternity, I grow tired, -and view such wearisome attitudes with infinitely more admiration than -pleasure.</p> - -<p>The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the tribune. In -my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, inlaid -with the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered work, -like an old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have turned his -building inside out; nothing in art being more<a name="page_vol_1_181" id="page_vol_1_181"></a> ornamented than the -exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is vast and -solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar in its centre, -inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred feet in diameter. There -is something imposing in this decoration, as it suggests the idea of a -sanctuary, into which none but the holy ought to penetrate. However -profane I might feel myself, I took the liberty of entering, and sat -down in a niche. Not a ray of light reaches this sacred inclosure, but -through the medium of narrow windows, high in the dome, and richly -painted. A sort of yellow tint predominates, which gives additional -solemnity to the altar, and paleness to the votary before it. I was -sensible of the effect, and obtained at least the colour of sanctity.</p> - -<p>Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and feasted -upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked to one of -the bridges across the Arno, and from thence to the garden of Boboli, -which lies behind the Grand Duke’s palace, stretched out on the side of -a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, robed by a thick underwood -of bay and myrtle, above which rise several nodding towers, and a long -sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely<a name="page_vol_1_182" id="page_vol_1_182"></a> concealed by ivy. You would -have been enraptured with the broad masses of shade and dusky alleys -that opened as I advanced, with white statues of fauns and sylvans -glimmering amongst them; some of which pour water into sarcophagi of the -purest marble, covered with antique relievos. The capitals of columns -and ancient friezes are scattered about as seats.</p> - -<p>On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves which -spring above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I -followed a winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to a -green platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence deep -beneath, and the tops of the hills which encircle it jagged with pines; -here and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene -extends as far as the eye can reach.</p> - -<p>Still ascending I attained the brow of the eminence, and had nothing but -the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above me. On -this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis-work, clothed -with luxuriant vines. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands extended in -the act of scattering fertility over the country, crowns the summit.</p> - -<p>Descending alley after alley, and bank after<a name="page_vol_1_183" id="page_vol_1_183"></a> bank, I came to the -orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, with -marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring cedars and -tall aërial cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique Roman -garden so vividly into my mind, that, lost in the train of recollections -this idea excited, I expected every instant to be called to the table of -Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticos, and to stretch myself on his -purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for a summons till the approach -of night, I returned delighted with a ramble that had led my imagination -so far into antiquity.</p> - -<p>Friday, Sept. 16.—My impatience to hear Pacchierotti called me up with -the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest of musical -pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a fertile plain, -bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns and villages. We -passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in the afternoon entered the -Lucchese territory, by a clean paved road, which runs through chestnut -copses bordered with broom in blossom, and an immense variety of heaths; -a red soil peeping forth from the vegetation, adds to the richness of -the landscape, which swells all the way into<a name="page_vol_1_184" id="page_vol_1_184"></a> gentle acclivities: and at -about seven or eight miles from the city spreads all round into -mountains, green to their very summits, and diversified with gardens and -palaces. More pleasing scenery can with difficulty be imagined: I was -quite charmed with beholding it, as I knew very well that the opera -would keep me a long while chained down in its neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since I defy -almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. Narrow -streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; everybody -in black, according with the gloom of their habitations, which however -are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having all grated windows, -they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. My spirits fell many -degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when I found Friday was -meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its inhabitants, and no -opera to be performed, I grew wofully out of humour. Instead of a -delightful symphony, I heard nothing for some time but the clatter of -plates and the swearing of waiters.</p> - -<p>Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of -distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin.<a name="page_vol_1_185" id="page_vol_1_185"></a> -Overhearing my sad complaint for want of music, they most generously -determined I should have my fill of it, and, getting together a few -scrapers, began such an academia as drove me to the further end of a -very spacious apartment, whilst they possessed the other. The hopes and -heir of the family—a chubby dolt of between eighteen and nineteen, his -uncle, a thickset smiling personage, and a brace of innocent-looking -younger brothers, plied their fiddles with a hearty good will, waggled -their double chins, and played out of tune with the most happy -unconsciousness, as amateurs are apt to do ninety-nine times in a -hundred.</p> - -<p>Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent -the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely ill, -at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and attendant -females, kept ogling him with great perseverance. Those who could not -get in, squinted through the crevices of the door. Abbates and -greyhounds were fidgetting continually without. In short, I was so -persecuted with questions, criticisms, and concertos, that, pleading -headache and indisposition, I escaped about ten o’clock, and shook -myself when I got safe to my apartment like a worried spaniel.<a name="page_vol_1_186" id="page_vol_1_186"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XII-italy" id="LETTER_XII-italy"></a>LETTER XII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Rambles among the hills.—Excursions with Pacchierotti.—He catches -cold in the mountains.—The whole Republic is in commotion, and -send a deputation to remonstrate with the Singer on his -imprudence.—The Conte Nobili.—Hill scenery.—Princely Castle and -Gardens of the Garzoni Family.—Colossal Statue of Fame.—Grove of -Ilex.—Endless bowers of Vines.—Delightful Wood of the Marchese -Mansi.—Return to Lucca.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Lucca, Sept. 25, 1780.</p> - -<p>Y<small>OU</small> ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots -where the arbutus flourishes; from whence I may catch a glimpse of the -distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass, -like Palmerin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of -grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I -have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the visits, dinners, -conversazioni, and glories of the town, and only go thither in an -evening, just time enough for the grand march which precedes -Pacchierotti in Quinto Fabio. Sometimes he accompanies me in my -excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall -ruin their Opera, by leading him such extravagant rambles amongst the -mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds and showers. One -day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; for the next, away -we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so late in the evening, that a -cold and hoarseness were the consequence.</p> - -<p>The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime -ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had -committed. Had the safety of their mighty state depended upon this -imprudent excursion, they could not have vociferated with greater -violence. You know I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very -nearly got into a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations -of the Gonfalonier and all his council upon my head by openly declaring -our intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and -absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities. -These terrible threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a -tour of about thirty miles upon the high lands, and visited a variety -of castles and palaces.</p> - -<p>The Conte Nobili, a noble Lucchese, born in Flanders and educated at -Paris, was our conductor. He possesses great elegance of imagination, -and a degree of sensibility rarely met with. The way did not appear -tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by light clouds, and a -soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered with shrubs and -olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted with so deep a -blue, that I began to think the azure so prevalent in Velvet Breughel’s -landscapes is hardly exaggerated.</p> - -<p>After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we -began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; a great many -loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, -which continued, turning and winding through this wilderness, till it -opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted -groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzoni, on the -very side of a precipice.</p> - -<p>Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies -extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of -spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, strikes for the first -time with the effect of enchantment. Two large marble basins, with -jets-d’eau, seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from the -extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with cedar and ilex, and -cut into terraces.</p> - -<p>Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic enclosure, we passed -through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an endless flight of -steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the -trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and -lighted up the green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling the -waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and -sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams -issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal -by their thick branches a pavilion with baths. Above arises a colossal -statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting from the -precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, on which -I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arching over my head, fell, -without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below.</p> - -<p>I could hardly prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess; which -the fragrance of bay and orange, maintained by constant showers, -rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a -dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken, -is suffered to grow as wild as it pleases. This grove is suspended on -the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a boundless wood of -olives, and forms, by its willowy colour, a striking contrast with the -deep verdure of its base.</p> - -<p>After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue, -bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty -feet high. This led us to the palace, which was soon run over. Then, -mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with -myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most -powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a -continued bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit. These -arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I fell upon the -clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the north, unused to -such luxuriance: one of those Goths, Gray so poetically describes, who</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and -observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the -glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only -every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom -prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day.</p> - -<p>But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon -forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to -the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable -brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies a pastoral -hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide vineyards and -fields of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte Nobili -conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very comfortable -dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied the richest wines of -Constantia to exceed it.</p> - -<p>Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble -walks and trickling rivulets, we took coffee and loitered till sunset. -It was then time to return, as the mists were beginning to rise from the -valleys. The calm and silence of evening threw us into our reveries. We -went pacing along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without -hearing any sound but their steps.</p> - -<p>Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti -coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil.</p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIII-italy" id="LETTER_XIII-italy"></a>LETTER XIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Set out for Pisa.—The Duomo.—Interior of the Cathedral.—The -Campo Santo.—Solitude of the streets at midday.—Proceed to -Leghorn.—Beauty of the road.—Tower of the Fanale.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Leghorn, October 2nd, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HIS</small> morning we set out for Pisa. No sooner had we passed the highly -cultivated garden-grounds about Lucca than we found ourselves in narrow -roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising -high above our carriage and waving their leaves in the air. Through the -openings which sometimes intervened we discovered a variety of hillocks -clothed with shrubs, ruined towers looking out of the bushes, not one -without a romantic tale attending it.</p> - -<p>This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa -rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in -Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before the -Duomo, which stands insulated in a vast green area, and is perhaps the -most curious edifice my eyes ever viewed. Do not ask of what shape or -architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great is the confusion -of ornaments. The dome gives the mass an oriental appearance, which -helped to bewilder me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but -little thought they existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as -perfectly awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular -edifice distinct from the church and right opposite its principal -entrance, crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of -cupolas.</p> - -<p>Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some -moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of -porphyry and of the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the -rest of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest -mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by Michael -Angelo Buonarotti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We -examined them with due attention, and then walked down the nave and -remarked the striking effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective -through the bronze portals, which you know, I suppose, are covered with -relievos of the finest workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide -open, and we passed between them to the baptistery, where stands an -alabaster font, constructed after the primitive ritual and exquisitely -wrought.</p> - -<p>Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the area in -which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic tabernacle above -the entrance, rising from the level turf and preserving a neat straw -colour, appear as fresh as if built within the present century. Our -guide unlocking the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an -oblong quadrangle, which encloses the sacred earth of Jerusalem, -conveyed hither about the period of the crusades, the days of Pisanese -prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none -are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is entirely composed of -tombs with slabs, smoothly laid and covered with monumental -inscriptions. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble -and glistening in the sun, support the arcade of the cloister, which is -carved with innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly -Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from -Dante’s rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries, -attributed to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccaccio -mentions in his Decamerone.</p> - -<p>Beneath, along the base of the columns, are placed, to my no small -surprise, rows of pagan sarcophagi; I could not have supposed the -Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such -consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty other -contradictory ornaments.</p> - -<p>I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty -times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some odd -novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of <i>giallo antico</i>, -that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I only mention -to identify the precise point of view), and looking through the -filigreed tracery of the arches observed the domes of the cathedral, -cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the -leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in -Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are airy, the -pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an exotic look in the -whole scene, that without any violent effort of fancy one might imagine -one’s self in fairy land. Every object is new, every ornament original; -the mixture of antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the -vagaries of the prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of -returning, to hear visionary music and commune with sprites, for I shall -never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a theatre.</p> - -<p>The heat was so powerful that all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their -wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets, -except five camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden -walls and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We were -obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, before we -reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought after, and when I had -swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began not to think quite so much of -the deserts of Africa, as the heat and the camels had induced me to do a -moment ago.</p> - -<p>Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Leghorn through a wild tract of -forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in some -places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the desire of -walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling -through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and -chesnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the -prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs.</p> - -<p>Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was -sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses as in the month of May. I -felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and was -greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in the fullest -and most luxuriant bloom. The softness of the air, the sound of the -distant surges, the evening gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted -the tumult of my spirits, and I experienced the calm of my infant hours. -I lay down in the open turf-walks between the shrubberies, and during a -few moments had forgotten every care; but when I began to enquire into -my happiness, I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I love -most, in situations they would have warmly admired, and without them -these pleasant lawns and woodlands looked pleasant in vain.</p> - -<p>We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanale began to -lift itself above the horizon—the very tower you have so often -mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships out -at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception in our -northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales from -the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the port and sat -on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that broke amongst them.</p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIV-italy" id="LETTER_XIV-italy"></a>LETTER XIV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Mole at Leghorn.—Coast scattered over with -Watch-towers.—Branches of rare Coral unexpectedly acquired.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">October 3rd, 1780.</p> - -<p>I <small>WENT</small>, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as soon as the sun -began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no stranger to; -therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble of saying anything -about it, except that the port which it embraces is no longer crowded. -Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only three, and those consist -chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look as poor and tattered as their -masters. Not much attention did I bestow upon such objects, but, taking -my seat at the extremity of the quay, surveyed the smooth plains of -ocean, the coast scattered over with watchtowers, and the rocky isle of -Gorgona, emerging from the morning mists, which still lingered upon the -horizon.<a name="page_vol_1_187" id="page_vol_1_187"></a></p> - -<p>Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train of -ideas before my imagination, which pleased your own upon beholding it, -an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, -stepped out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, presented -himself before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed dripping a few -moments before he pronounced a syllable, and when he began his -discourse, I was in doubt whether I should not have moved off in a -hurry, there was something so wan and singular in his countenance. -Except this being, no other was visible for a quarter of a mile at -least. I knew not what strange adventure I might be upon the point of -commencing, or what message I was to expect from the submarine -divinities. However, after all my conjectures, the figure turned out to -be no other than an old fisherman, who having picked up a few branches -of the rarest species of coral, offered them to sale. I eagerly made the -purchase, and thought myself a favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me -to acquire, with such facility, some of his most beautiful ornaments.</p> - -<p>My bargain thus expeditiously concluded, I ran along the quay with my -basket of coral, and,<a name="page_vol_1_188" id="page_vol_1_188"></a> taking boat, was rowed back to the gate of the -port. The carriage waited there; I shut myself up in the grateful shade -of green blinds, and was driven away at a rate that favoured my -impatience. We bowled smoothly over the lawns described in my last -letter, amongst myrtles in flower, that would have done honour to the -island of Juan Fernandez.</p> - -<p>Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the Campo -Santo, but hurried on to Lucca, and threw the whole idle town into a -stare by my speedy return.<a name="page_vol_1_189" id="page_vol_1_189"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XV-italy" id="LETTER_XV-italy"></a>LETTER XV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Florence again.—Palazzo Vecchio.—View on the Arno.—Sculptures by -Cellini and John of Bologna.—Contempt shown by the Austrians to -the memory of the House of Medici.—Evening visit to the Garden of -Boboli.—The Opera.—Miserable singing.—A Neapolitan Duchess.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Florence, October 5th, 1780.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. We had all -the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important -republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, the -atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which we -were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after us.</p> - -<p>Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and shaking -till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then proceeded so -slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late in the evening, and -took possession of an apartment<a name="page_vol_1_190" id="page_vol_1_190"></a> over the Arno, which being swollen with -rains roared like a mountain torrent. Throwing open my windows, I viewed -its agitated course by the light of the moon, half concealed in stormy -clouds, which hung above the fortress of the Belvedere. I sat -contemplating the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights of -Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst which a -convent is situated, till the moon sank into the darkest quarter of the -sky, and a bell began to toll. Its mournful sound filled me with gloomy -recollections. I closed the casements, and read till midnight some -dismal memoir of conspiracies and assassinations, Guelphs and -Ghibelines, the black story of ancient Florence.</p> - -<p class="rht">October 6th.</p> - -<p>E<small>VERY</small> cloud was dispersed when I arose, and the purity and transparence -of the æther added new charms to the picturesque eminences around. I -felt quite revived by this exhilarating prospect, and walked in the -splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath the famous gallery, then -to an antient castle, raised in the days of the Republic, which fronts -the grand piazza. Colossal statues and trophies badly carved in the -true<a name="page_vol_1_191" id="page_vol_1_191"></a> spirit of the antique, are placed before it. On one side a -fountain, clung round with antick figures of bronze, by John of Bologna. -On the other, three lofty pointed arches, and under one of them the -Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini.</p> - -<p>Having examined some groups of sculptures by Baccio Bandinelli and other -mighty artists, I entered the court of the castle, dark and deep, as if -hewn out of a rock, surrounded by a vaulted arcade covered with -arabesque ornaments and supported by pillars almost as uncouthly -designed as those of Persepolis. In the midst appears a marble fount -with an image of bronze, that looks quite strange and cabalistic. I -leaned against it to look up to the summits of the walls, which rise to -a vast height, from whence springs a slender tower. Above, in the -apartments of the castle, are still preserved numbers of curious -cabinets, tables of inlaid gems, and a thousand rarities, collected by -the house of Medici, and not yet entirely frittered away and disposed of -by public sale.</p> - -<p>It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of contempt -which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those illustrious patrons of -the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate,<a name="page_vol_1_192" id="page_vol_1_192"></a> they affect to despise as a -race of merchants whose example it would be abasing their dignity to -follow.</p> - -<p>I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness of -the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. That duty -over, I dined in peace and solitude, and repaired, as evening drew on, -to the thickets of Boboli.</p> - -<p>What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! A -purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested with -saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that clothed -their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended the terraces of -the garden.</p> - -<p>After traversing many long dusky alleys, I reached the opening on the -brow of the hill, and seating myself under the statue of Ceres, took a -sketch of the huge mountainous cupola of the Duomo, the adjoining lovely -tower and one more massive in its neighbourhood, built not improbably in -the style of ancient Etruria. Beyond this historic group of buildings a -plain stretches itself far and wide, most richly studded with villas<a name="page_vol_1_193" id="page_vol_1_193"></a> -and gardens, and groves of pine and olive, quite to the feet of the -mountains.</p> - -<p>Having marked the sun’s going down and all the soothing effects cast by -his declining rays on every object, I went through a plat of vines to a -favourite haunt of mine:—a little garden of the most fragrant roses, -with a spring under a rustic arch of grotto-work fringed with ivy. -Thousands of fish inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering species -which comes from China. This golden nation were leaping after insects as -I stood gazing upon the deep clear water, listening to the drops that -trickle from the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of a green alley, -you discover an oval basin, and in the midst of it an antique statue -full of that graceful languor so peculiarly Grecian.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was musing on the margin of the spring (for I returned to it -after casting a look upon the sculpture), the moon rose above the tufted -foliage of the terraces, which I descended by several flights of steps, -with marble balustrades crowned by vases of aloes.</p> - -<p>It was now seven o’clock, and all the world <a name="page_vol_1_194" id="page_vol_1_194"></a>were going to my Lord T——’s, who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, with stuffed -birds, alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; but to say -truth, neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal of -slopping and sipping of tea going forward, and many dawdlers assembled.</p> - -<p>As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, and -conduct you to the Opera, which is really a striking spectacle. The -first soprano put my patience to severe proof, during the few minutes I -attended. You never beheld such a porpoise. If these animals were to -sing, I should conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how -often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of Quinto -Fabio. Everybody seemed as well contented as if there were no such thing -as good singing in the world, except a Neapolitan duchess who delighted -me by her vivacity. We took our fill of maledictions, and went home -equally pleased with each other for having mutually execrated both -singers and audience.<a name="page_vol_1_195" id="page_vol_1_195"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVI-italy" id="LETTER_XVI-italy"></a>LETTER XVI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.—Ascend one -of the hills celebrated by Dante.—View from its brow.—Chapel -designed by Michael Angelo.—Birth of a Princess.—The -christening.—Another evening visit in the woods of Boboli.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">October 22nd, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HEY</small> say the air is worse this year at Rome than ever, and that it would -be madness to go thither during its malign influence. This was very bad -news indeed to one heartily tired of Florence, at least of its society. -Merciful powers! what a set harbour within its walls! * * * You may -imagine I do not take vehement delight in this company, though very -ingenious, praiseworthy, &c. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every -morning; and there grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, twisting -round a pine, upon whose branches I sit for hours.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon I am irresistibly attracted to<a name="page_vol_1_196" id="page_vol_1_196"></a> the thickets of Boboli. -The other evening, however, I varied my walks, and ascended one of those -pleasant hills celebrated by Dante, which rise in the vicinity of the -city, and command a variegated scene of towers, villas, cottages, and -gardens. On the right, as you stand upon the brow, appears Fiesole with -its turrets and white houses, covering a rocky mount to the left, the -Val d’Arno lost in the haze of the horizon. A Franciscan convent stands -on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in antient cypresses, which -hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much of so gay a view. The -paved ascent leading up to their abode receives also a shade from the -cypresses which border it. Beneath this venerable avenue, crosses with -inscriptions are placed at certain distances, to mark the various -moments of Christ’s passion; as when fainting under his burden he halted -to repose himself, or when he met his afflicted mother.</p> - -<p>Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed by M. A. -Buonarotti; further on, an antient church, encrusted with white marble, -porphyry, and verd antique. The interior presents a crowded assemblage -of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements and inlaid work without<a name="page_vol_1_197" id="page_vol_1_197"></a> end. -The high altar is placed in a semicircular recess, which, like the apsis -of the church at Torcello, glitters with barbaric paintings on a gold -ground, and receives a fervid glow of light from five windows, filled up -with transparent marble clouded like tortoiseshell. A smooth polished -staircase leads to this mysterious place: another brought me to a -subterraneous chapel, supported by confused groups of variegated -pillars, just visible by the glimmer of lamps.</p> - -<p>Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which terminate -in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect preservation, but -totally deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill up the quadrangle, -whose walls are hung with superstitious pictures most singularly -fancied. The Jesuits were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem -to have had great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness -delighted me.</p> - -<p>Next day I was engaged by a very opposite scene, though much against my -will. Her Royal Highness the Grand Duchess having produced a princess in -the night, everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was -carried, along with the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and -ladies, to see the christening. After the<a name="page_vol_1_198" id="page_vol_1_198"></a> Grand Duke had talked -politics for some time, the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown -open. Trumpets flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began -the ceremony at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk -pavilion, with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, though it was -noon-day, shone in every corner of the apartments. Two rows of pages, -gorgeously accoutred, and holding enormous torches, stood on each side -his Royal Highness, and made him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to -the sound of an indifferent band of music, though led by Nardini. The -poor old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint-like, led the Te -Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest followed him with thoughtless -expedition.</p> - -<p>The ceremony being despatched, (for his Royal Highness was in a mighty -fidget to shrink back into his beloved obscurity,) the crowd dispersed, -and I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord T——’s.</p> - -<p>Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself once more into the woods of -Boboli, and remained till it was night in their recesses. Really this -garden is enough to bewilder an<a name="page_vol_1_199" id="page_vol_1_199"></a> enthusiastic spirit; there is something -so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of cypresses. When I -had mused for many an interesting hour amongst them, I emerged into the -orangery before the palace, which overlooks the largest district of the -town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads up to it, -certain bright lights glancing about the cupola of the Duomo and the -points of the highest towers. At first I thought them meteors, or those -illusive fires which often dance before the eye of my imagination; but -soon I was convinced of their reality; for in a few minutes the lantern -of the cathedral was lighted up by agents really invisible; whilst a -stream of torches ran along the battlements of the old castle which I -mentioned in a former letter.</p> - -<p>I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, my pleasure was -greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to rejoice -the hearts of his Royal Highness’s loyal subjects, and bonfires blazing -in every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every denomination -drove me quickly to the theatre; but that was all glitter and glare. No -taste, no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, and rat’s-tail candles.<a name="page_vol_1_200" id="page_vol_1_200"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVII-italy" id="LETTER_XVII-italy"></a>LETTER XVII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.—Rocky Steeps.—Groves of Pine.—Vast -Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.—Reception at the Convent.—Wild -Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cell.—Conversation with -the holy Fathers.—Legendary Tales.—The consecrated Cleft.—The -Romitorio.—Extensive View of the Val d’Arno.—Return to Florence.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">October 23rd, 1780.</p> - -<p>D<small>O</small> you recollect our evening rambles last year, in the valley at F——, -under the hill of pines? I remember we often fancied the scene like -Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever an occasion offered, to visit its deep -retirements. I had put off the execution of this pilgrimage from day to -day till the warm weather was gone; and the Florentines declared I -should be frozen if I attempted it. Everybody stared last night at the -Opera when I told them I was going to bury myself in fallen leaves, and -hear no music but their rustlings.<a name="page_vol_1_203" id="page_vol_1_203"></a></p> - -<p>Mr. —— was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and -nothingness of Florence; so we finally determined upon our expedition, -and mounting our horses, set out this morning, happily without any -company but the spirit which led us along. We had need of inspiration, -since nothing else, I think, would have tempted us over such dreary, -uninteresting hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary -olive is their principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part of the -country, seems in a withering decrepit state, and may not unaptly be -compared to “an old woman clothed in grey.” However, we did not suffer -the prospect to damp our enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for -Valombrosa.</p> - -<p>About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some oats, -and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren waste, -scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than I cared -for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my portion. -Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I reached down a few -purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, -and amused myself very pleasantly with them<a name="page_vol_1_204" id="page_vol_1_204"></a> till the horses had -finished their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. We met with -nothing but rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as -half inclined us to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet amongst -the number of our evils.</p> - -<p>At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind blow -sharply from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of -groves of pine. A paved path leads across them, quite darkened by -boughs, which meeting over our heads cast a gloom and a chilness below -that would have stopped the proceedings of reasonable mortals, and sent -them to bask in the plain; but, being not so easily discomfited, we -threw ourselves boldly into the forest. It presented that boundless -confusion of tall straight stems I am so fond of, and exhaled a fresh -aromatic odour that revived my spirits.</p> - -<p>The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we -galloped on, and entered a vast amphitheatre of lawns and meadows -surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. The steep cliffs and -mountains which guard this retired valley are clothed with beech to -their very summits; and on their slopes, whose smoothness<a name="page_vol_1_205" id="page_vol_1_205"></a> and verdure -equal our English pastures, were dispersed large flocks of sheep. The -herbage, moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never -been known to fade; thus, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by -the heats of summer, these upland meadows retain the freshness of -spring. I regretted not having visited them sooner, as autumn had -already made great havock amongst the foliage. Showers of leaves blew -full in our faces as we rode towards the convent, placed at an extremity -of the vale and sheltered by firs and chesnuts towering one above -another.</p> - -<p>Whilst we were alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and -received us into the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, -and tables spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six -overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed by the sleekness and rosy hue -of their countenances not totally to have despised this mortal -existence.</p> - -<p>My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order about -me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in his -pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; yet to -avoid this was<a name="page_vol_1_206" id="page_vol_1_206"></a> scarcely within the circle of possibility. All dinner, -therefore, we endured an infinity of nonsensical questions; but as soon -as that was over, I lost no time in repairing to the lawns and forests. -The fathers made a shift to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly -as they were able, but were soon distanced.</p> - -<p>Now I found myself at liberty, and pursued a narrow path overhung by -rock, with bushy chesnuts starting from the crevices. This led me into -wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with moss: several -were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus had his -cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, listening to -the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed. The dry leaves chased -each other down the steeps on the edge of the torrents with hollow -rustlings, whilst the solemn wave of the forests above most perfectly -answered the idea I had formed of Valombrosa,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">——where the Etrurian shades<br /></span> -<span class="i0">High overarch’d embower.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton to move -across his favourite<a name="page_vol_1_207" id="page_vol_1_207"></a> valley, when the fathers arrived puffing and -blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of.</p> - -<p>“You have missed the way,” cried the youngest; “the hermitage, with the -fine picture by Andrèa del Sarto, which all the English admire, is on -the opposite side of the wood: there! don’t you see it on the point of -the cliff?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, yes,” said I a little peevishly; “I wonder the devil has not -pushed it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick.”</p> - -<p>“Satan,” answered the old Pagod very dryly, “is full of malice; but -whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth to flow near the -hermitage is freed from his illusions.”</p> - -<p>“Are they so?” replied I with a sanctified accent, “then I pray thee -conduct me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters.”</p> - -<p>The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, “This is nothing -more than a heretic’s whim.”</p> - -<p>The senior set forwards with greater piety, and began some legendary -tales of the kind which my soul loveth. He pointed to a chasm in the -cliff, round which we were winding by a spiral path, where Gualbertus -used to sleep,<a name="page_vol_1_208" id="page_vol_1_208"></a> and, turning himself towards the west, see a long -succession of saints and martyrs sweeping athwart the sky, and gilding -the clouds with far brighter splendours than the setting sun. Here he -rested till his last hour, when the bells of the convent beneath (which -till that moment would have made dogs howl had there been any within its -precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all the country -around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with singular -devotion, when, behold! light dawned, cherubim appeared, and birds -chirped although it was midnight. “Alas! alas! what would I not give to -witness such a spectacle, and read my prayer-book by the effulgence of -opening heaven!”</p> - -<p>However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the consecrated -cleft and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very penitential -couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world below, which lay -this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red and angry through -misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea.</p> - -<p>Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my -quarters, and followed<a name="page_vol_1_209" id="page_vol_1_209"></a> the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a snug -little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andrèa del -Sarto, which I should have examined more minutely had not the wild and -mountainous forest scenery possessed my whole attention. I just stayed -to taste the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran -eagerly down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and -entered a lawn of the smoothest turf grazed by sheep. Beyond this -opening rises a second, hemmed in with thickets; and still higher, a -third, whence a forest of young pines spires up into a lofty theatre -terminated by peaks, half concealed by a thick mantle of beech tinged -with ruddy brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking upward -to the sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my orisons to the -genius of the place, and prayed that I might once more return into its -bosom, and be permitted to bring you along with me, for surely such -meads, such groves, were formed for our enjoyment!</p> - -<p>This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of the -pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of -precipices,<a name="page_vol_1_210" id="page_vol_1_210"></a> beneath whose base the whole Val d’Arno lies expanded. I -listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw wreaths of smoke rising -from the cottages, and viewed a vast tract of grey barren country, which -evening rendered still more desolate, bounded by the black mountain of -Radicofani. Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and -forest, the groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with -fiery red, for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, -produced this effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was -gloomy, and the rest of the prospect of a melancholy blue.</p> - -<p>Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the -eminences, and heard the sullen toll of a bell. The young boys of the -seminary were moving in a body to their dark enclosure, all dressed in -black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to ask them whether -the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; but a tall -spectre of a priest drove them along like a herd, and presently, the -gates opening, I saw them no more.</p> - -<p>The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the intervals -of the gusts I had<a name="page_vol_1_211" id="page_vol_1_211"></a> the addition of a lamentable screech owl to depress -my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to meet the -fathers, who came out to show me to my room, and entertain me with -various gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper appeared.</p> - -<p>Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; and -afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully upon -our viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was determined to -make a full stop at the organ, one of the most harmonious I ever played -upon; but placed in a deep recess, feebly lighted by lamps, not -calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. The monks, who had all -crowded into the loft in expectation of brisk jigs and lively overtures, -soon retired upon hearing a strain ten times more sorrowful than that to -which they were accustomed. I did not lament their departure, but played -on till our horses came to the gate. We mounted, wound back through the -grove of pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the -steeps, and, gaining the plains, galloped in a few hours to Florence.<a name="page_vol_1_212" id="page_vol_1_212"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVIII-italy" id="LETTER_XVIII-italy"></a>LETTER XVIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Cathedral at Sienna.—A vaulted Chamber.—Leave Sienna.—Mountains -round Radicofani.—Hunting Palace of the Grand Dukes.—A grim -fraternity of Cats.—Dreary Apartment.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sienna, October 27th, 1780.</p> - -<p>H<small>ERE</small> my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I got up much -earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder that our holy -ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, scrape it into tabernacles, -and chisel it into scripture stories. It would have cost them almost as -little trouble as the building in question, which, by many of the -Italian devotees to a purer style of architecture, is esteemed a -masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate absurdity. The front, -encrusted with alabaster, is worked into a million of fretted arches and -puzzling ornaments. There are statues without number, and relievos -without end or meaning.</p> - -<p>The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the roof -blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from it;<a name="page_vol_1_213" id="page_vol_1_213"></a> and -a cornice running above the principal arcade, composed entirely of -bustos representing the whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from the -first Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan they say figured -amongst them, between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the -year 1600, when some authors have asserted she was turned out, at the -instance of Clement the Eighth, to make room for Zacharias the First.</p> - -<p>I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this -singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The pavement -demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent variety of -histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed somewhat in the style of -that hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the walls of our -ancestors. Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, -supported by polished pillars of granite, rising from lions’ backs, -which serve as pedestals. In every corner of the place some glittering -chapel or other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi -family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect to design -and execution; but it wants effect, as seeming out of place in this -chaos of caprice and finery.<a name="page_vol_1_214" id="page_vol_1_214"></a></p> - -<p>From the church I entered a vaulted chamber, erected by the -Piccoliminis, filled with missals most exquisitely illuminated. The -paintings in fresco on the walls are rather barbarous, though executed -after the designs of the mighty Raphael; but then we must remember, he -had but just escaped from Pietro Perugino.</p> - -<p>Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, after -being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that ever pretended to be -made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough mountains round -Radicofani, about seven o’clock on a cold and dismal evening. Up we -toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length the inn upon its -summit. My heart sank when I entered a vast range of apartments, with -high black raftered roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of the -Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having risen, every -door began to shake, and every board substituted for a window to -clatter, as if the severe power who dwells on the topmost peak of -Radicofani, according to its village mythologists, was about to visit -his abode.</p> - -<p>My only spell to keep him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, -whose charitable<a name="page_vol_1_215" id="page_vol_1_215"></a> gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker -flow. Yet, for some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to the right, -now to the left, up at the dark beams, and down the long passages, where -the pavement, broken up in several places, and earth newly strewn about, -seemed to indicate that something horrid was concealed below.</p> - -<p>A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in these -dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical scene of -a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing to explore them, -I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth which glowed with -embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly venturing to go to sleep -lest I should be suddenly roused from it by I know not what terrible -initiation into the mysteries of the place.</p> - -<p>Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just -mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted upon -their moving off faster than they had entered, and was surprised, when -midnight came, to hear nothing more than their doleful mewings echoed by -the hollow walls and arches.<a name="page_vol_1_216" id="page_vol_1_216"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIX-italy" id="LETTER_XIX-italy"></a>LETTER XIX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal -territory.—Country near Aquapendente.—Shores of the Lake of -Bolsena.—Forest of Oaks.—Ascend Monte Fiascone.—Inhabited -Caverns.—Viterbo.—Anticipations of Rome.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Radicofani, October 28th, 1780.</p> - -<p>I <small>BEGIN</small> to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at -Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not -an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have -more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I -was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind, -and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and cornfields at -a distance.</p> - -<p>Near Aquapendente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs mantled with -chesnut copses and tufted ilex, the country grew varied and picturesque. -St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of -Bolsena, whose<a name="page_vol_1_217" id="page_vol_1_217"></a> woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed -some of them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and -grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles -crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as Polemberg and -Bamboche introduce in their paintings.</p> - -<p>Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint -rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon -the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte -Fiascone. It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems -full of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with -fires. We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a -subterraneous people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we -drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; -and when we entered the town, all was total darkness.</p> - -<p>To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and -tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial -city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs -of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from -Monte Cavallo.<a name="page_vol_1_218" id="page_vol_1_218"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XX-italy" id="LETTER_XX-italy"></a>LETTER XX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Set out in the dark.—The Lago di Vico.—View of the spacious -plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.—Ancient -splendour.—Present silence and desolation.—Shepherds’ -huts.—Wretched policy of the Papal Government.—Distant view of -Rome.—Sensations on entering the City.—The Pope returning from -Vespers.—St Peter’s Colonnade.—Interior of the -Church.—Reveries.—A visionary scheme.—The Pantheon.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Rome, October 29th, 1780.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; its waters -of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests catching the -rays of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the cupola of St. -Peter’s upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. Nothing but a sea -of vapours was visible.</p> - -<p>At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show -themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of -empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, and -on the other side, a shining<a name="page_vol_1_219" id="page_vol_1_219"></a> expanse of ocean terminates the view. It -was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, -and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander -theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for -encampments: levels for martial games, and room for that variety of -roads and causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. How many -triumphant legions have trodden these pavements! how many captive kings! -What throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface! -savage animals dragged from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors -of Indian princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore -the favour of the senate!</p> - -<p>During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such -illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is passed -away: silence and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over -with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only -objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed a few -black ill-favoured sheep straggling by the way’s side, near a ruined -sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would<a name="page_vol_1_220" id="page_vol_1_220"></a> have sacrificed to the -Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were the only -sounds which broke the general stillness, and observed the shepherds’ -huts on its banks, propped up with broken pedestals and marble friezes. -I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and -began writing upon the sand and murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps the -dead listened to me from their narrow cells. The living I can answer -for: they were far enough removed.</p> - -<p>You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a -scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted -how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no blue -firmament to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants to -irritate my nerves and lend at least a momentary animation. Heath and a -greyish kind of moss are the sole vegetation which covers this endless -wilderness. Every slope is strewed with the relics of a happier period; -trunks of trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, -skulls and coins, are frequently dug up together.</p> - -<p>I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you any -novel intelligence. You<a name="page_vol_1_221" id="page_vol_1_221"></a> knew before how perfectly the environs of Rome -were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives to make -its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not just as -wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of celebrating? All is -doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as well -attempt proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay -dispersed around me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate -than another. Very likely the poor cottager, under whose roof I reposed, -is happier than the luxurious Roman upon the remains of whose palace, -perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet that Roman flourished in the purple -days of the empire, when all was wealth and splendour, triumph and -exultation.</p> - -<p>I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and -meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and -drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the days of -the Cæsars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. “When -you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome,” said one of -the postilions: up we dragged; no city appeared. “From the next,<a name="page_vol_1_222" id="page_vol_1_222"></a>” cried -out a second; and so on from height to height did they amuse my -expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, -till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with green pastures on -their summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here -and there a white house, built in the antique style, with open porticos, -that received a faint gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the -clouds and tinting the meads below. Now domes and towers began to -discover themselves in the valley, and St. Peter’s to rise above the -magnificent roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene -extended, till, winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our -view.</p> - -<p>Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending -the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an -avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, which leads to -the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the domes, the obelisk, the -long perspective of streets and palaces opening beyond, all glowing with -the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, -my favourite hour, surrounded<a name="page_vol_1_223" id="page_vol_1_223"></a> by such objects. You can fancy me -ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which supports -Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St. Peter’s in -performance of my vow.</p> - -<p>I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers. Trumpets -flourishing, and a troop of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. Angelo. -Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved on till the -full sweep of St. Peter’s colonnade opened upon me. The edifice appears -to have been raised within the year, such is its freshness and -preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the beautiful -symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent, though irregular -courts of the Vatican towering over the colonnade, till, the sun sinking -behind the dome, I ran up the steps and entered the grand portal, which -was on the very point of being closed.</p> - -<p>I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred twilight -concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not distinguish any -particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the whole. No damp air or -fœtid exhalation offended me. The perfume of incense was<a name="page_vol_1_224" id="page_vol_1_224"></a> not yet -entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. I heard a door close with -the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished some faint -whisperings, but am ignorant whence they came. Several hundred lamps -twinkled round the high altar, quite lost in the immensity of the pile. -No other light disturbed my reveries but the dying glow still visible -through the western windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself -alone in this vast temple at so late an hour. Do you think I quitted it -without some revelation?</p> - -<p>It was almost eight o’clock before I issued forth, and, pausing a few -minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: then -traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa Medici, -under which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which my zeal and -exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited.</p> - -<p class="rht">October 30th.</p> - -<p>I<small>MMEDIATELY</small> after breakfast I repaired again to St. Peter’s, which even -exceeded the height of my expectations. I could hardly quit it. I wish -his Holiness would allow me to erect a little tabernacle within this -glorious temple. I should desire no other prospect during the winter; no -other sky than the vast arches glowing with<a name="page_vol_1_225" id="page_vol_1_225"></a> golden ornaments, so lofty -as to lose all glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be -perfectly contented, unless I could obtain another tabernacle for you. -Thus established, we would take our evening walks on the field of -marble; for is not the pavement vast enough for the extravagance of the -appellation? Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend -the cupola, and look down on our little encampment below. At night I -should wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, -and so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light. Music should not -be wanting: at one time to breathe in the subterraneous chapels, at -another to echo through the dome.</p> - -<p>The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, no -cardinals: God forbid! We would have all the space to ourselves, and to -beings of our own visionary persuasion.</p> - -<p>I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with contriving -plans for its embellishment, as scarcely to have spirits left for the -Pantheon, which I visited late in the evening, and entered with a -reverence approaching to superstition. The whiteness of the dome -offended me, for, alas! this venerable temple has been whitewashed.<a name="page_vol_1_226" id="page_vol_1_226"></a> I -slunk into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into -antiquity; then opened them again, tried to persuade myself the Pagan -gods were in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed -at coming to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with his -cross, and St. Agnes with her lamb, &c. Then I paced disconsolately into -the portico, which shows the name of Agrippa on its pediment. Fixed for -a few minutes against a Corinthian column, I lamented that no pontiff -arrived with victims and aruspices, of whom I might enquire, what, in -the name of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for you -must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think -Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their -representations of this venerable structure. I left the column, walked -to the centre of the temple, and there remained motionless as a statue. -Some architects have celebrated the effect of light from the opening -above, and pretended it to be distributed in such a manner as to give -those, who walk beneath, the appearance of mystic beings streaming with -radiance. If that were the case! I appeared, to be sure, a luminous<a name="page_vol_1_227" id="page_vol_1_227"></a> -figure, and never stood I more in need of something to enliven me.</p> - -<p>My spirits were not mended upon returning home. I had expected a heap of -Venetian letters, but could not discover one. I had received no -intelligence from England for many a tedious day; and for aught I can -tell to the contrary, you may have been dead these three weeks. I think -I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, which I try lustily to persuade -myself communicate with the lower world; and perhaps I may find some -letter there from you lying upon a broken sarcophagus, dated from the -realms of Night, and giving an account of your descent into her bosom. -Yet, I pray continually, notwithstanding my curiosity to learn what -passes in the dark regions beyond the tomb, that you will remain a few -years longer on our planet; for what would become of me should I lose -sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you can, and let us -have the delight of dozing a little more of this poor existence away -together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant dreams.<a name="page_vol_1_228" id="page_vol_1_228"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXI-italy" id="LETTER_XXI-italy"></a>LETTER XXI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Leave Rome for Naples.—Scenery in the vicinity of -Rome.—Albano.—Malaria.—Veletri.—Classical associations.—The -Circean Promontory.—Terracina.—Ruined Palace.—Mountain -Groves.—Rock of Circe.—The Appian Way.—Arrive at Mola di -Gaieta.—Beautiful prospect.—A Deluge.—Enter Naples by night, -during a fearful Storm.—Clear Morning.—View from my -window.—Courtly Mob at the Palace.—The Presence Chamber.—The -King and his Courtiers.—Party at the House of Sir W. H.—Grand -Illumination at the Theatre of St. Carlo.—Marchesi.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">November 1st, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HOUGH</small> you find I am not yet snatched away from the earth, according to -my last night’s bodings, I was far too restless and dispirited to -deliver my recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a mighty day of gala at -Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving Rome, and indulging my -roving disposition. After spending my morning at St. Peter’s, we set off -about four o’clock, and drove by the Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, -whose monks were all busied in preparing the<a name="page_vol_1_229" id="page_vol_1_229"></a> skeletons of their order, -to figure by torch-light in the evening. St. John’s of Lateran -astonished me. I could not help walking several times round the obelisk, -and admiring the noble space in which the palace is erected, and the -extensive scene of towers and aqueducts discovered from the platform in -front.</p> - -<p>We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains which -surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of walls and -arches, seldom interrupted, stretch across them. Sometimes, indeed, a -withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of every blast that sweeps -the champagne, breaks their uniformity. Between the aqueducts to the -left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of ploughed lands, dark and -desolate, are visible, the corn not being yet sprung up. On the right, -several groups of ruined fanes and sepulchres diversify the levels, with -here and there a garden or woody enclosure. Such objects are scattered -over the landscape, which towards the horizon bulges into gentle -ascents, and, rising by degrees, swells at length into a chain of -mountains, which received the pale gleams of the sun setting in watery -clouds.<a name="page_vol_1_230" id="page_vol_1_230"></a></p> - -<p>By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, -sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate them, -for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and began -breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and recollecting -a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we advanced, not -without fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall asleep when -arrived there.</p> - -<p class="rht">November 2nd.</p> - -<p>I <small>AROSE</small> at day-break, and, forgetting fevers and mortalities, ran into a -level meadow without the town, whilst the horses were putting to the -carriage. Why should I calumniate the pearly transparent air? it seemed -at least purer than any I had before inhaled. Being perfectly alone, and -not discovering any trace of the neighbouring city, I fancied myself -existing in the ancient days of Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his -woods before the evening. But, instead of those shrill clamours which -used to echo through the thickets when Pan joined with mortals in the -chase, I heard the rumbling of our carriage, and the cursing of -postilions. Mounting a horse I flew before them, and seemed to catch<a name="page_vol_1_231" id="page_vol_1_231"></a> -inspiration from the breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of -precipices, in whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed -their life; then to the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliff, so -famous for Circe’s incantations, and the whole line of coasts, which was -once covered with her forests.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sun-beams began to shoot -athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their -shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dew-drops. The sea brightened, and -the Circean promontory soon glowed with purple. All day we kept winding -through this enchanted country. Towards evening Terracina appeared -before us, in a bold romantic scite; house above house, and turret -looking over turret, on the steeps of a mountain, enclosed with -mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined terraces of a palace; one of -those, perhaps, which the luxurious Romans inhabited during the summer, -when so free and lofty an exposition (the sea below, with its gales and -murmurs) must have been delightful. Groves of orange and citron hang on -the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, whose bright red flowers, -illuminated by the sun,<a name="page_vol_1_232" id="page_vol_1_232"></a> had a magic splendour. A palm-tree, growing on -the highest crag, adds not a little to its singular appearance. Being -the largest I had yet seen, and clustered with fruit, I climbed up the -rocks to take a sketch of it; and looking down upon the beach and glassy -plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">O nemus! O fontes! solidumque madentis arenæ<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Littus, et æquoreis splendidus Anxur aquis!<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the rock of Circe, -which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the continent by a -very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an island. The roar of the -waves lashing the base of the precipices, might still be thought the -howl of savage monsters; but where are those woods which shaded the dome -of the goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, and but a few, -are the sole remains of this once impenetrable vegetation; yet even -these I longed to visit, such was my predilection for the spot.</p> - -<p>Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, by -a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian Way, we drove under an -enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch tower, and -cut into arsenals<a name="page_vol_1_233" id="page_vol_1_233"></a> and magazines. Day closed just as we got beyond it, -and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw fires afar off in -the bay; some twinkling on the coast, others upon the waves, and heard -the murmur of voices; for the night was still and solemn, like that of -Cajetas’s funeral. I looked anxiously on a sea, where the heroes of the -Odyssey and Æneid had sailed to fulfil their mystic destinies.</p> - -<p>Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Gaeta. The boats were just coming -in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought such fish -as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged Æneas and Ulysses.</p> - -<p class="rht">November 3rd.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> morning was soft, but hazy. I walked in a grove of orange trees, -white with blossoms, and at the same time glowing with fruit. The spot -sloped pleasantly toward the sea, and here I loitered till the horses -were ready, then set off on the Appian, between hedges of myrtle and -aloes. We observed a variety of towns, with battlemented walls and -ancient turrets, crowning the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by -wilds, and rude uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds -its peaceful course<a name="page_vol_1_234" id="page_vol_1_234"></a> through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with -the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the rocks I have just -mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil’s panegyric -of Italy into my mind:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds -covered the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain as -floated the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius disappeared -just after we had discovered it. At four o’clock darkness universally -prevailed, except when a livid glare of lightning presented momentary -glimpses of the bay and mountains. We lighted torches, and forded -several torrents almost at the hazard of our lives. The plains of Aversa -were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not half so much -scared as their masters, who ran about raving and ranting like Indians -during the eclipse of the moon. I knew Vesuvius had often put their -courage to proof, but little thought of an inundation occasioning such -commotions.</p> - -<p>For three hours the storm increased in violence,<a name="page_vol_1_235" id="page_vol_1_235"></a> and instead of -entering Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores by -moonlight—instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged with -people and animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror through -dark streets totally deserted, every creature being shut up in their -houses, and we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing torrents, and the -fall of fragments beaten down by their violence. Our inn, like every -other habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while -before we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. All night the -waves roared round the rocky foundations of a fortress beneath my -windows, and the lightning played clear in my eyes.</p> - -<p class="rht">November 4th.</p> - -<p>P<small>EACE</small> was restored to nature in the morning, but every mouth was full of -the dreadful accidents which had happened in the night. The sky was -cloudless when I awoke, and such was the transparence of the atmosphere -that I could clearly discern the rocks, and even some white buildings on -the island of Caprea, though at the distance of thirty miles. A large -window fronts my bed, and its casements being thrown<a name="page_vol_1_236" id="page_vol_1_236"></a> open, gives me a -vast prospect of ocean uninterrupted, except by the peaks of Caprea and -the Cape of Sorento. I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level -waters, and listening to the confused voices of the fishermen, passing -and repassing in light skiffs, which came and disappeared in an instant.</p> - -<p>Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till -then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams,) I leaned -over its rails and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue æther, -with all that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered about its -base; then looked down into the street, deep below, thronged with people -in holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. The -shrubby, variegated shore of Posilipo drew my attention to the opposite -side of the bay. It was on those very rocks, under those tall pines, -Sannazaro was wont to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, composing -his marine eclogues. It is there he still sleeps; and I wished to have -gone immediately and strewed coral over his tomb, but I was obliged to -check my impatience and hurry to the palace in form and gala.<a name="page_vol_1_237" id="page_vol_1_237"></a></p> - -<p>A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with -lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but bows and salutations -were going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, -and which a multitude of prelates and friars were ascending with awkward -pomposity. I jostled along to the presence chamber, where his Majesty -was dining alone in a circular enclosure of fine clothes and smirking -faces. The moment he had finished, twenty long necks were poked forth, -and it was a glorious struggle amongst some of the most decorated who -first should kiss his hand, the great business of the day. Everybody -pressed forward to the best of their abilities. His Majesty seemed to -eye nothing but the end of his nose, which is doubtless a capital -object.</p> - -<p>Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ in -opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be -happy, in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, and a -pigeon to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is better -contented than Solomon in all his glory, and will never discover, like -that sapient sovereign, that all is vanity and vexation of spirit.<a name="page_vol_1_238" id="page_vol_1_238"></a></p> - -<p>His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and differ -little in the character of their physiognomies from the most savage -nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, had it not -been for their dresses and European finery.</p> - -<p>You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, to -return to Sir W. H.’s, where an interesting group of lovely women, -literati, and artists, were assembled—Gagliani and Cyrillo, Aprile, -Milico, and Deamicis—the determined Santo Marco, and the more -nymph-like modest-looking, though not less dangerous, Belmonte. Gagliani -happened to be in full story, and vied with his countryman Polichinello, -not only in gesticulation and loquacity, but in the excessive -licentiousness of his narrations. He was proceeding beyond all bounds of -decency and decorum, at least according to English notions, when Lady -H.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> sat down to the pianoforte. Her plaintive modulations breathed a -far different<a name="page_vol_1_239" id="page_vol_1_239"></a> language. No performer that ever I heard produced such -soothing effects; they seemed the emanations of a pure, uncontaminated -mind, at peace with itself and benevolently desirous of diffusing that -happy tranquillity around it; these were modes a Grecian legislature -would have encouraged to further the triumph over vice of the most -amiable virtue.</p> - -<p>The evening was passing swiftly away, and I had almost forgotten there -was a grand illumination at the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a -number of dark streets, we suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose -seven rows of boxes one above the other blazed with tapers. I never -beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so pompous a decoration as covered -the stage. Marchesi was singing in the midst of all these splendours -some of the poorest music imaginable, with the clearest and most -triumphant voice, perhaps, in the universe.</p> - -<p>It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or -discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its size -and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of swarthy ill-favoured -beings, in gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The -court<a name="page_vol_1_240" id="page_vol_1_240"></a> being present, a tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment -his Majesty withdrew (which great event took place at the beginning of -the second act) every tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and -hubbub filled up the rest of the entertainment.<a name="page_vol_1_241" id="page_vol_1_241"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXII-italy" id="LETTER_XXII-italy"></a>LETTER XXII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">View of the coast of Posilipo.—Virgil’s tomb.—Superstition of the -Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.—Aërial situation.—A grand -scene.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">November 6th, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>ILL</small> to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea covered with mists, -and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I have not yet been able to -mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in order to take a general view -of the town.</p> - -<p>At length a bright gleam of sunshine summoned me to the broad terrace of -Chiaja, which commands the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew -towards it, and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) soon -reached the entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst the -crags that lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and vines grow -luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and its fresh yellow colours, -variegated with ivy, have a beautiful effect.<a name="page_vol_1_242" id="page_vol_1_242"></a> To the right, a grove of -pines spring from the highest pinnacles: on the left, bay and chesnut -conceal the tomb of Virgil placed on the summit of a cliff which impends -over the opening of the grotto, and is fringed with vegetation. Beneath -are several wide apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to -caverns sixty or seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who -were employed in quarrying, made a strange but not absolutely -unharmonious din with their tools and their voices.</p> - -<p>Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone -immediately beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking -down the long and solemn perspective terminated by a speck of gray -uncertain light, venerated a work which some old chroniclers have -imagined as ancient as the Trojan war. It was here the mysterious race -of the Cimmerians performed their infernal rites, and it was this -excavation perhaps which led to their abode.</p> - -<p>The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical an -origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have been -formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Addison very justly -observes, is better<a name="page_vol_1_243" id="page_vol_1_243"></a> known at Naples in his magical character than as -the author of the Æneid. This strange infatuation most probably arose -from the vicinity of the tomb in which his ashes are supposed to have -been deposited; and which, according to popular tradition, was guarded -by those very spirits who assisted in constructing the cave. But -whatever may have given rise to these ideas, certain it is they were not -confined to the lower ranks alone. King Robert,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> a wise though far -from poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great -solemnity to the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the grotto, very -gravely asked him, whether he did not adopt the general belief, and -conclude this stupendous passage derived its origin from Virgil’s -powerful incantations? The answer, I think, may easily be conjectured.</p> - -<p>When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and -trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I -retreated without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path -which led me, after some windings and turnings, along the brink of the -precipice, across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks which -shelters Virgil’s tomb, most venerably<a name="page_vol_1_244" id="page_vol_1_244"></a> mossed over and more than half -concealed by bushes and vegetation. The clown who conducted me remained -aloof at awful distance, whilst I sat commercing with the manes of my -beloved poet, or straggled about the shrubbery which hangs directly -above the mouth of the grot.</p> - -<p>Advancing to the edge of the rock, I saw crowds of people and carriages, -diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the mountain and -disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the windings of its road. -Clambering high above the cavern, I hazarded my neck on the top of one -of the pines, and looked contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that -were so busily moving to and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have -wished, but the sea-breezes fanned me in my aërial situation, which -commanded the grand sweep of the bay, varied by convents, palaces, and -gardens mixed with huge masses of rock and crowned by the stately -buildings of the Carthusians and fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering -blue sea to this perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom and -Vesuvius breathing forth a white column of smoke into the æther, and you -will then have a scene<a name="page_vol_1_245" id="page_vol_1_245"></a> upon which I gazed with delight, for more than -an hour, almost forgetting that I was perched upon the head of a pine -with nothing but a frail branch to uphold me. However, I descended -alive, as Virgil’s genii, I am resolved to believe, were my protectors.<a name="page_vol_1_246" id="page_vol_1_246"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXIII-italy" id="LETTER_XXIII-italy"></a>LETTER XXIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A ramble on the shore of Baii.—Local traditions.—Cross the -bay.—Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.—Wondrous -reservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.—The Dead Lake.—Wild -scene.—Beautiful meadow. Uncouth rocks.—An unfathomable -gulph.—Sadness induced by the wild appearance of the -place.—Conversation with a recluse.—Her fearful -narration.—Melancholy evening.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">November 8th, 1780.</p> - -<p>T<small>HIS</small> morning I awoke in the glow of sunshine—the air blew fresh and -fragrant—never did I feel more elastic and enlivened. A brisker flow of -spirits than I had for many a day experienced, animated me with a desire -of rambling about the shore of Baii, and creeping into caverns and -subterraneous chambers. Off I set along the Chiaja, and up strange paths -which impend over the grotto of Posilipo, amongst the thickets mentioned -a letter or two ago; for in my present buoyant humour I disdained -ordinary roads, and<a name="page_vol_1_247" id="page_vol_1_247"></a> would take paths and ways of my own. A society of -kids did not understand what I meant by intruding upon their precipices; -and scrambling away, scattered sand and fragments upon the good people -that were trudging along the pavement below.</p> - -<p>I went on from pine to pine and thicket to thicket, upon the brink of -rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir William had -recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that had passed in the -neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over which we were -travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat down by us on -little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, scarcely knowing which -way caprice had led me. My mind was full of the tales of the place, and -glowed with a vehement desire of exploring the world beyond the grot. I -longed to ascend the promontory of Misenus, and follow the same dusky -route down which the Sibyl conducted Æneas.</p> - -<p>With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses -opened to views of the Baian sea with the little isles of Niscita and -Lazaretto, lifting themselves out of the waters.<a name="page_vol_1_248" id="page_vol_1_248"></a> Procita and Ischia -appeared at a distance invested with that purple bloom so inexpressibly -beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I hailed the -prospect, and blessed the transparent air that gave me life and vigour -to run down the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain to -Pozzuoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue ocean, by the -remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, adorned the bay in Roman -ages, crowned by vast lengths of slender pillars; pavilions at their -extremities and taper cypresses spiring above their balustrades: this -character of villa occurs very frequently in the paintings of -Herculaneum.</p> - -<p>We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast near some -fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced -into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with -shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant -foliage, chesnut, bay and ilex, that shelter the ruins of sepulchral -chambers. No parties of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I -had all the land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into -its recesses, with the importance of a discoverer. What a variety of -narrow paths,<a name="page_vol_1_249" id="page_vol_1_249"></a> between banks and shades, did I wildly follow! my savage -laughing loud at my odd gestures and useless activity. He wondered I did -not scrape the ground for medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, -like other inquisitive young travellers that had gone before me.</p> - -<p>After ascending some time, I followed him into the wondrous<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> -reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, when anchored in -the neighbouring bay. A noise of trickling waters prevailed throughout -this grand labyrinth of solid vaults and arches, that had almost lulled -me to sleep as I rested myself on the celandine which carpets the floor; -but curiosity urging me forward, I gained the upper air; walked amongst -woods a few minutes, and then into grots and dismal excavations (prisons -they call them) which began to weary me.</p> - -<p>After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at last -reached an eminence that commanded the Mare Morto, and Elysian fields -trembling with reeds and poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem of -eternal tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants seemed -fixed on its margin, their shadows<a name="page_vol_1_250" id="page_vol_1_250"></a> reflected on the water. Turning from -the lake I espied a rock at about a league distant, whose summit was -clad with verdure, and finding this to be the promontory of Misenus, I -immediately set my face to that quarter.</p> - -<p>We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured -generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, -however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by -neat hedges of cane, and a variety of herbs and pulses and Indian corn -seemed to flourish in the inclosures. Insensibly we began to leave the -cultivated lands behind us, and to lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, -to all appearance, no mortal had ever trodden. Here were no paths, no -inclosures; a primeval rudeness characterized the whole scene.</p> - -<p>After forcing our way about a mile, through glades of shrubs and briars, -we entered a lawn-like opening at the base of the cliff which takes its -name from Misenus. The poets of the Augustan age would have celebrated -such a meadow with the warmest raptures, and peopled its green expanse -with all the sylvan demi-gods of their beautiful mythology. Here were -springs issuing<a name="page_vol_1_251" id="page_vol_1_251"></a> from rocks of pumice, and grassy hillocks partially -concealed by thickets of bay.</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Candida purpureis mista papaveribus.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead of -reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts dissolved -in attaining its summit. The sun darted upon my head, I wished to avoid -its immediate influence; no tree was near; the pleasant valley lay below -at a considerable depth, and it was a long way to descend to it. Looking -round and round, I spied something like a hut, under a crag on the edge -of a dark fissure. Might I avail myself of its covert? My conductor -answered in the affirmative, and added that it was inhabited by a good -old woman, who never refused a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to -refresh a weary traveller.</p> - -<p>Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of -stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help deviating a -few steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth rocks which rose -frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their appearance was truly -formidable, bristled over with sharp-spired<a name="page_vol_1_252" id="page_vol_1_252"></a> dwarf aloes, such as -Lucifer himself might be supposed to have sown. Indeed I knew not -whether I was not approaching some gate that leads to his abode, as I -drew near a gulph (the fissure lately mentioned) and heard the deep -hollow murmurs of the gusts which were imprisoned below. The savage, my -guide, shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old woman of my coming. -I felt strangely, and stared around me, and but half liked my situation.</p> - -<p>In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. “You are -welcome,” said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect than I had -heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, and she seemed of -a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys. My savage -treated her with peculiar deference. She had just given him some bread, -with which he retired to a respectful distance bowing to the earth. I -caught the mode, and was very obsequious, thinking myself on the point -of experiencing a witch’s influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight -into the volume of futurity. She smiled at my agitation and kept -beckoning me into the cottage.<a name="page_vol_1_253" id="page_vol_1_253"></a></p> - -<p>“Now,” thought I to myself, “I am upon the verge of an adventure.” I saw -nothing, however, but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen -bowls, and a wooden crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: this my -hostess perceived, and immediately kindling a fire in an inner part of -the hovel, brought out some warm water to refresh my feet, and set some -milk and chesnuts before me. This patriarchal attention was by no means -indifferent after my tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to the door -which fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the sea, of a deep -cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also was darkening apace with -storms. Sadness came over me like a cloud, and I looked up to the old -woman for consolation.</p> - -<p>“And you too are sorrowful, young stranger,” said she, “that come from -the gay world! how must I feel, who pass year after year in these lonely -mountains?” I answered that the weather affected me, and my spirits were -exhausted by the walk.</p> - -<p>All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy -earnestness that I asked the<a name="page_vol_1_254" id="page_vol_1_254"></a> cause, and began again to imagine myself -in some fatal habitation,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Where more is meant than meets the ear.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>“Your features,” said she, “are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate -young person, who, in this retirement....” The tears began to fall as -she pronounced these words; my curiosity was fired. “Tell me,” continued -I, “what you mean; who was this youth for whom you are so interested? -and why did he seclude himself in this wild region? Your kindness to him -might no doubt have alleviated, in some measure, the horrors of the -place; but may God defend me from passing the night near such a gulph! I -would not trust myself in a despairing moment.”</p> - -<p>“It is,” said she, “a place of horrors. I tremble to relate what has -happened on this very spot; but your manner interests me, and though I -am little given to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips concerning -the secrets of yonder fatal chasm.</p> - -<p>“I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better days. In -my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few years they withered -away; no matter by what accident. I am not going to talk much of -myself.<a name="page_vol_1_255" id="page_vol_1_255"></a> Have patience a few moments! A series of unfortunate events -reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this desert, where, from -rearing goats and making their milk into cheese, by a different method -than is common in the Neapolitan state, I have, for about thirty years, -prolonged a sorrowful existence. My silent grief and constant retirement -had made me appear to some a saint, and to others a sorceress. The -slight knowledge I have of plants has been exaggerated, and, some years -back, the hours I gave up to prayer, and the recollection of former -friends, lost to me for ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and -the ignorant. But soon I sank into obscurity: my little recipes were -disregarded, and you are the first stranger who, for these twelve months -past, has visited my abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever -remained inviolate!</p> - -<p>“It is now three-and-twenty years,” and she looked upon some characters -cut on the planks of the cottage, “since I was sitting by moonlight, -under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes fixed on the ocean, my -mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard a step, and -starting up, a figure stood before<a name="page_vol_1_256" id="page_vol_1_256"></a> me. It was a young man, in a rich -habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the utmost terror. I -knew not what to think of this sudden apparition. ‘Mother,’ said he with -faltering accents, ‘let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not up -to those who thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take all, all!’</p> - -<p>“Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; the youth -stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the rocks; the -wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. I took courage, -and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. ‘Oh! thank you, thank -you!’ answered he, and pressed my hand. He shared my scanty provision.</p> - -<p>“Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day) sleep closed my -eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was set, but I heard my -unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed him not. Morning dawned, -and he was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled out of his closed -eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan cheeks. I had been too -wretched myself not to respect the sorrows of another: neglecting -therefore my accustomed occupations, I drove away the flies that buzzed<a name="page_vol_1_257" id="page_vol_1_257"></a> -around his temples. His breast heaved high with sighs, and he cried -loudly in his sleep for mercy.</p> - -<p>“The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like one that -had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face with his -hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. ‘Oh, mother!’ he -exclaimed, ‘I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the cause of -innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!’ My blood curdled to -hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and behold such agonising -sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked the sting of conscience -urging him to disclose what I am going to relate.</p> - -<p>“It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and luxuries of -Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with a thousand -lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to improve. -Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object of his desires, -he passed his first years in roving from one extravagance to another, -but as yet there was no crime in his caprices.</p> - -<p>“At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make their idol -the slave of an unbridled<a name="page_vol_1_258" id="page_vol_1_258"></a> passion. He had a friend, who from his birth -had been devoted to his interest, and placed all his confidence in him. -This friend loved to distraction a young creature, the most graceful of -her sex (as I can witness), and she returned his affection. In the -exultation of his heart he showed her to the wretch whose tale I am -about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She too caught fire at his -glances. They languished—they consumed away—they conversed, and his -persuasive language finished what his guilty glances had begun.</p> - -<p>“Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal a thought, -however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth in the tenderest -manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him so loathsome, that -unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, he menaced the -life of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. Coolness and -moderation were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he found himself -treated with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to the heart, he -wandered about for some time like one entranced. Meanwhile the nuptials -were preparing, and the lovely girl he had perverted found ways to<a name="page_vol_1_259" id="page_vol_1_259"></a> let -him know she was about to be torn from his embraces.</p> - -<p>“He raved like a demoniac, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a -malignant wretch who sold the most inveterate poisons. These he infused -into a cup of pure iced water and presented to his friend, and to his -own too fond confiding father, who soon after they had drunk the fatal -potion began evidently to pine away. He marked the progress of their -dissolution with a horrid firmness, he let the moment pass beyond which -all antidotes were vain. His friend expired; and the young criminal, -though he beheld the dews of death hang on his parent’s forehead, yet -stretched not forth his hand. In a short space the miserable father -breathed his last, whilst his son was sitting aloof in the same chamber.</p> - -<p>“The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, the pangs of -remorse. His agitations passed not unnoticed. He was watched: suspicions -beginning to unfold he took alarm, and one evening escaped; but not -without previously informing the partner of his crimes which way he -intended to flee. Several pursued; but the inscrutable will of -Providence blinded their search,<a name="page_vol_1_260" id="page_vol_1_260"></a> and I was doomed to behold the effects -of celestial vengeance.</p> - -<p>“Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from the youth. -I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. One whole -day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather than be near -an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now survey that slender -form and those flowing tresses, which had interested me before so much -in his behalf!</p> - -<p>“No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than sullenly -retiring to yonder rock he sat careless of the sun and scorching winds; -for it was now the summer solstice. He was equally heedless of the -unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were augmented; and I -meditated several times to abandon my hovel and fly to the next village; -but a power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified my -mind.</p> - -<p>“I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called at the -wicket of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I arose, and saw a -peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely muffled up, and -casting her eyes on the<a name="page_vol_1_261" id="page_vol_1_261"></a> ground. My heart misgave me. I thought this was -the very maid who had been the cause of such atrocious wickedness. Nor -were my conjectures ill-founded. Regardless of the clown who stood by in -stupid astonishment, she fell to the earth and bathed my hand with -tears. Her trembling lips with difficulty enquired after the youth; and, -as she spoke, a glow of conscious guilt lightened up her pale -countenance.</p> - -<p>“The full recollection of her lover’s crimes shot through my memory. I -was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but, she clung to my -garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so full of misery, -that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity of the cliff -where the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the sea. His eye was -rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon the object for whose sake -he had doomed himself to perdition.</p> - -<p>“Far be it from me to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness with -which they sought each other’s embraces. I indignantly turned my head -away; and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving -in my mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision for -my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned<a name="page_vol_1_262" id="page_vol_1_262"></a> homewards by the light -of the moon which shone serenely in the heavens. Almost the first object -her beams discovered was the guilty maid sustaining the head of her -lover, who had fainted through weakness and want of nourishment. I -fetched some dry bread, and dipping it in milk laid it before them. -Having performed this duty I set open the door of my hut, and retiring -to a neighbouring cavity, there stretched myself on a heap of leaves and -offered my prayers to Heaven.</p> - -<p>“A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into my fancy. The -shadow of leaves that chequered the entrance to the grot, seemed to -assume in my distempered imagination the form of ugly reptiles, and I -repeatedly shook my garments. The flow of the distant surges was -deepened by my apprehensions into distant groans: in a word, I could not -rest; but issuing from the cavern as hastily as my trembling knees would -allow, paced along the edge of the precipice. An unaccountable impulse -would have hurried my steps, yet such was my terror and shivering, that -unable to advance to my hut or retreat to the cavern, I was about to -shield myself from the night in a sandy crevice, when a loud<a name="page_vol_1_263" id="page_vol_1_263"></a> shriek -pierced my ear. My fears had confused me; I was in fact near my hovel -and scarcely three paces from the brink of the cavern: it was thence the -cries proceeded.</p> - -<p>“Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was newly -crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended by one -foot to a branch of juniper that grew several feet down: thus dreadfully -did he hang over the gulph from the branch bending with his weight. His -features were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his -screams became so shrill and terrible that I lost all power of affording -assistance. Fixed, I stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who -incessantly cried out, ‘O God! O Father! save me if there be yet mercy! -save me, or I sink into the abyss!’</p> - -<p>“I am convinced he did not see me; for not once did he implore my help. -His voice grew faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, the loose thong of -leather, which had entangled itself in the branches by which he hung -suspended, gave way, and he fell into utter darkness. I sank to the -earth in a trance; during which a sound like the rush of pennons -assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was bearing off his soul; -but when<a name="page_vol_1_264" id="page_vol_1_264"></a> I lifted up my eyes nothing stirred; the stillness that -prevailed was awful.</p> - -<p>“The moon hanging low over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I -perceived some one coming down that white cliff you see before you; and -I soon heard the voice of the young woman calling aloud on her guilty -lover. She stopped. She repeated again and again her exclamation; but -there was no reply. Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the path, and -now I saw her on the promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with -her glances every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she flew -to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed the -fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my countenance. I -continued pointing to the chasm; she trembled not; her tears could not -flow; but she divined the meaning. ‘He is lost!’ said she; ‘the earth -has swallowed him! but, as I have shared with him the highest joy, so -will I partake his torments. I will follow: dare not to hinder me.’</p> - -<p>“Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside me; and, -clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look on the -hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness<a name="page_vol_1_265" id="page_vol_1_265"></a> that told me she -was bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on the -ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover’s temples, -she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, thrust it -into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the last act of despair -and miserable passion, she threw herself, with a furious leap, into the -gulph.</p> - -<p>“To its margin I crawled on my knees, and there did I remain in the most -dreadful darkness; for now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured with -storms, and a tempestuous blast ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick -upon me, and the lightning, in clear and frequent flashes, gave me -terrifying glimpses of yonder accursed chasm.</p> - -<p>“Stranger, dost thou believe in our Redeemer? in his most holy mother? -in the tenets of our faith?” I answered with reverence, but said her -faith and mine were different. “Then,” continued the aged woman, “I will -not declare before a heretic what were the visions of that night of -vengeance!” She paused; I was silent.</p> - -<p>After a short interval, with deep and frequent<a name="page_vol_1_266" id="page_vol_1_266"></a> sighs, she resumed her -narrative. “Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, and it was -late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous clouds. I -was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs began to -brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against me. Then -did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all human beings the -most abject and miserable. How different did I feel myself from those, -fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, and driven for ever from the -morning!</p> - -<p>“Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some grave and -ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, -about the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with every -dreadful particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse concerning -them was expressly stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for -their souls.”</p> - -<p>With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her -singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph to call -my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed to think, from the -paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some gloomy prediction,<a name="page_vol_1_267" id="page_vol_1_267"></a> -and shook his head, when I turned round to bid my old hostess adieu! It -was a melancholy evening, and I could not refrain from tears, whilst, -winding through the defiles of the rocks, the sad scenes which had -passed amongst them recurred to my memory.</p> - -<p>Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I rambled a -few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The last streaks of -light were quivering on the waters when I stepped into the bark, and -wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, some of -whose inhabitants came forth with torches to light us home.<a name="page_vol_1_268" id="page_vol_1_268"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXIV-italy" id="LETTER_XXIV-italy"></a>LETTER XXIV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Tyrol Mountains.—Intense cold.—Delight on beholding human -habitations.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Augsburg, 20th January, 1781.</p> - -<p>F<small>OR</small> these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling -in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of pine -through which our route conducted us. We were often obliged to travel by -moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful aspect of the Tyrol -mountains buried in snow.</p> - -<p>I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though prompted -by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should interrupt -the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these boundless -solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, for aught I -know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed on without -perceiving the slightest hint of their existence.<a name="page_vol_1_269" id="page_vol_1_269"></a></p> - -<p>I never before felt so much pleasure by discovering a smoke rising from -a cottage, or hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not have -supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or three fur -caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their concealments. I wish -you had been with me, exploring this savage region: wrapped up in our -bear-skins, we should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, -perhaps, into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the -heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by dwarfs, -and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad scheme to sleep away five -or six years to come, since every hour affairs are growing more and more -turbulent. Well, let them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the -shades of our thickets.<a name="page_vol_1_271" id="page_vol_1_271"></a><a name="page_vol_2_270" id="page_vol_2_270"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="SECOND_VISIT_TO_ITALY" id="SECOND_VISIT_TO_ITALY"></a>SECOND VISIT TO ITALY.<a name="page_vol_1_272" id="page_vol_1_272"></a></h2> - -<div class="notte"> -<p>T<small>HE</small> following letters, written during a second excursion, are added, on -account of their affinity to some of the preceding. -<a name="page_vol_1_273" id="page_vol_1_273"></a></p> -</div> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-italy2" id="LETTER_I-italy2"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">First day of Summer.—A dismal Plain.—Gloomy entrance to -Cologne.—Labyrinth of hideous edifices.—Hotel of Der Heilige -Geist.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Cologne, 28th May, 1782.</p> - -<p>T<small>HIS</small> is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses blow, -butterflies are on the wing, and I have spirits enough to write to you. -We have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like the slough -of Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal plain, -apparently boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and then a -blue meteor glided along the morass which lay before us.</p> - -<p>After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour’s time -discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and crowned -by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and<a name="page_vol_1_274" id="page_vol_1_274"></a> knocked; no one answered. -We repeated our knocks; the gate returned a hollow sound; the horses -coughed, their riders blew their horns. At length the bars fell, and we -entered—by what means I am ignorant, for no human being appeared.</p> - -<p>A labyrinth of narrow winding streets, dark as the vaults of a -cathedral, opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least twenty -minutes, between lofty mansions with grated windows and strange -galleries projecting one over another, from which depended innumerable -uncouth figures and crosses, in iron-work, swinging to and fro with the -wind. At the end of this gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen -feet wide, I am certain; the houses still loftier than those just -mentioned, the windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not -what else to call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights -glimmering in the highest stories, and arches on the right and left, -which seemed to lead into retired courts and deeper darkness.</p> - -<p>Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as I -hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went<a name="page_vol_1_275" id="page_vol_1_275"></a> out -at the same arch through which we had entered. This procession seemed at -first very mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our -postilions, who confessed they had lost their way. A council was held -amongst them in form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of -hideous edifices, habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a -creature stirred; though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all -the vaults and arches.</p> - -<p>Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of a -casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an -apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception.<a name="page_vol_1_276" id="page_vol_1_276"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-italy2" id="LETTER_II-italy2"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Enter the Tyrol.—Picturesque scenery.—Village of -Nasseriet.—World of boughs.—Forest huts.—Floral abundance.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Inspruck, June 4, 1782.</p> - -<p>N<small>O</small> sooner had we passed Fuessen than we entered the Tyrol, a country of -picturesque wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I delight -in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs gushed out on every side, -overhung by luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day was mild, though -overcast, and a soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, above which rise -mountains that bear plains of snow into the clouds.</p> - -<p>At night we lay at Nasseriet, a village buried amongst savage -promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into -smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, -whose delicate foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. -Flights of<a name="page_vol_1_277" id="page_vol_1_277"></a> birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran -delighted into this world of boughs, whilst Cozens sat down to draw the -huts which are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover -themselves amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner.</p> - -<p>These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas of -pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from whence -they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with flowers. -Gentians predominated, brighter than ultramarine; here and there -auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed upon tufts of -ranunculus. Bushes of phillyrea were very frequent, the sun shining full -on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away swiftly in these pleasant -groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, a tower of leaves and -branches.<a name="page_vol_1_278" id="page_vol_1_278"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_III-italy2" id="LETTER_III-italy2"></a>LETTER III.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.—Shore of -Fusina.—A stormy sky.—Draw near to Venice.—Its deserted -appearance.—Visit to Madame de R.—Cesarotti.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Padua, June 14th, 1782.</p> - -<p>O<small>NCE</small> more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding -Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever man -was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the Brenta, -into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. -Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and -palaces, seemed flying after each other, so rapid was our motion.</p> - -<p>After a few hours’ confinement between close steeps, the scene opened to -the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely time to look -before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, the Lagunes -tinted like the opal,<a name="page_vol_1_279" id="page_vol_1_279"></a> and the islands of a glowing flame-colour. The -mountains of the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy grey, -and innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their blackness. -The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up in the tempestuous -clouds.</p> - -<p>In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising out -of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable bells to my -ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, and recognised -those solemn palaces, with their lofty arcades and gloomy arches, -beneath which I had so often sat, the scene of many a strange adventure.</p> - -<p>The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town -appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the Place of -St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and forwards, -opposite the Ducal Palace, by moon-light. They are building a spacious -quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San -Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following the -wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening to the -waters dashing against marble steps.<a name="page_vol_1_280" id="page_vol_1_280"></a></p> - -<p>I closed my evening at my friend Madame de Rosenberg’s, where I met -Cesarotti, who read to us some of the most affecting passages in his -Fingal, with all the intensity of a poet, thoroughly persuaded that into -his own bosom the very soul of Ossian had been transfused.</p> - -<p>Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season of -June, and the canals much ruffled; but I was determined to visit the -Lido once more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines in the -garden of the Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, -which was very poetically buffeted by the waves.</p> - -<p>Traversing the desert of locusts,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged -into its agitated waters. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to -such a degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to -thread its labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber -and oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandise, the perfume -of coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics -sitting cross-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars of -Constantinople.<a name="page_vol_1_281" id="page_vol_1_281"></a></p> - -<p>It is certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series of eastern -ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark’s a mosque, and -the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of arabesque saloons, -embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians.<a name="page_vol_1_282" id="page_vol_1_282"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IV-italy2" id="LETTER_IV-italy2"></a>LETTER IV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Excursion to Mirabello.—Beauty of the road thither.—Madame de -R.’s wild-looking niece.—A comfortable Monk’s nest.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Padua, June 19th, 1782.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> morning was delightful, and St. Anthony’s bells in full chime. A -shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and -grateful, that Madame de R. and myself determined to seize the -opportunity and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti had -inhabited, situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles from -Padua.</p> - -<p>Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, overhung -by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found myself in the -midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with clover, and shaded -by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I gathered the fruit, and -grew cooler and happier every instant.<a name="page_vol_1_283" id="page_vol_1_283"></a></p> - -<p>We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where my friend’s little -wild-looking niece pitched her pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs -of Bertoni’s Armida. That enchantress might have raised her palace in -this situation; and, had I been Rinaldo, I certainly should not very -soon have abandoned it.</p> - -<p>After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which sprang -from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and villas; tall -cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out of a sea of -corn and vine.</p> - -<p>Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant -Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards -Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chesnuts, where the -peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, to a mountain, crowned -by a circular grove of fir and cypress.</p> - -<p>In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; -perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, a -thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream of.<a name="page_vol_1_284" id="page_vol_1_284"></a></p> - -<p>Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the grove, -and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to pass the -night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant prospect.<a name="page_vol_1_285" id="page_vol_1_285"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_V-italy2" id="LETTER_V-italy2"></a>LETTER V.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Rome.—Stroll to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.—A grand -Rinfresco.—The Egyptian Lionesses.—Illuminations.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Rome, 29th June 1782.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you know -how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This evening, -instead of parading the Corso with the puppets in blue and silver coats, -and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal this, and -dotting my head to Abbè t’other, I strolled to the Coliseo and scrambled -amongst its arches. Then bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I -passed under the Arch of Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite -deserted, the world, thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in -coffee-houses, or staring at a few painted boards, patched up before the -Colonna palace, where, by the by, to-night is a grand <i>rinfresco</i> for -all the<a name="page_vol_1_286" id="page_vol_1_286"></a> dolls and doll-fanciers of Rome. I heard their buzz at a -distance; that was enough for me!</p> - -<p>Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, -and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. This -animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured out to me -the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled Romulus and -his brother.</p> - -<p>About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet on -the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of the Villa Medici; before, -lies roof beyond roof, and dome beyond dome: these are dimly discovered; -but do not you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling with -illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, that -structure of fire must be visionary.<a name="page_vol_1_287" id="page_vol_1_287"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VI-italy2" id="LETTER_VI-italy2"></a>LETTER VI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Negroni Garden.—Its solitary and antique appearance.—Stately -Porticos of the Lateran.—Dreary Scene.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Rome, 30th June 1782.</p> - -<p>A<small>S</small> soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but -finding it haunted by pompous people, nay, even by the Spanish -Ambassador, and several red-legged Cardinals, I moved off to the Negroni -garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets of jasmine, and -wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress totally neglected, -and almost impassable through the luxuriance of the vegetation; on every -side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and altars sacred to the -Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain the Manes must love. -The air was filled with the murmurs of water, trickling<a name="page_vol_1_288" id="page_vol_1_288"></a> down basins of -porphyry, and losing itself amongst overgrown weeds and grasses.</p> - -<p>Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and a -strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria Maggiore; -no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who delights in -sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with its high and -reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths of Dioclesian, -which peep over one of its walls.</p> - -<p>At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately -porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. Some priests -jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my shoulder through the -portals, into the portico. Night began to fill it with darkness. Upon -turning round, the melancholy waste of the Campagna met my eyes, and I -wished to go home, but had scarcely the power. A pressure, like that I -have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the pavement.</p> - -<p>I was thus in a manner forced to dwell upon the dreary scene, the long -line of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome<a name="page_vol_1_289" id="page_vol_1_289"></a> vapours, -rising like blue mists from the plains, had affected me. I know not how -it was; but I never experienced such strange, such chilling terrors. -About ten o’clock, thank God, the spell dissolved, I found my limbs at -liberty, and returned home.<a name="page_vol_1_290" id="page_vol_1_290"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VII-italy2" id="LETTER_VII-italy2"></a>LETTER VII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Naples.—Portici.—The King’s Pagliaro and Garden.—Description of -that pleasant spot.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Naples, July 8th, 1782.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> sea-breezes restore me to life. I set the heat of mid-day at -defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. I passed -yesterday at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing and pleasant, -invited us at an early hour into the open air. We drove, in an uncovered -chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other unroyal carriage except Sir -W.’s being allowed to enter its alleys, we breathed a fresh air, -untainted by dust or garlick. Every now and then, amidst wild bushes of -ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, sometimes a -fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit undisturbed, -contemplating the blue glittering bay.<a name="page_vol_1_291" id="page_vol_1_291"></a></p> - -<p>The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, whose -white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the most -magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as one -passes by; such is their size and dignity. In the midst of the thickets -stands the King’s Pagliaro, in a small garden, with hedges of luxuriant -jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as much as nature -pleases.</p> - -<p>The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I entered -this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the days of fairy -pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. Bright tiles compose -the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. In the middle of the -room you see a table spread with a beautiful Persian carpet; at one end, -four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King and his favourites -repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble basin. Mount a little -staircase, and you find yourself in another apartment, formed by the -roof, which being entirely composed of glistening straw, casts that -comfortable yellow glow I admire. From the windows you look into the -garden, not flourished over with parterres, but divided into<a name="page_vol_1_292" id="page_vol_1_292"></a> plats of -fragrant herbs and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, -or basin of the purest water.</p> - -<p>These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, and -so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of other -vegetables, as fresh as in our green England.<a name="page_vol_1_293" id="page_vol_1_293"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="GRANDE_CHARTREUSE" id="GRANDE_CHARTREUSE"></a>GRANDE CHARTREUSE.<a name="page_vol_1_295" id="page_vol_1_295"></a><a name="page_vol_2_294" id="page_vol_2_294"></a></h2> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-grch" id="LETTER_I-grch"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.—Reach the Village of -Les Echelles.—Gloomy region.—The Torrent.—Entrance of the -Desert.—Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.—Dark Woods and -Caverns.—Crosses.—Inscriptions.</p></div> - -<p>Gray’s sublime Ode on the Grande Chartreuse had sunk so deeply into my -spirit that I could not rest in peace on the banks of the Leman Lake -till I had visited the scene from whence he caught inspiration. I longed -to penetrate these sacred precincts, to hear the language of their -falling waters, and throw myself into the gloom of their forests: no -object of a worldly nature did I allow to divert my thoughts, neither -the baths of Aix, nor the habitation of the too indulgent Madame de -Warens (held so holy by Rousseau’s worshippers), nor the magnificent -road cut by<a name="page_vol_1_296" id="page_vol_1_296"></a> Charles Emanuel of Savoy through the heart of a rocky -mountain. All these points of attraction, so interesting to general -travellers, were lost upon me, so totally was I absorbed in the -anticipation of the pilgrimage I had undertaken.</p> - -<p>Mr. Lettice, who shared all my sentiments of admiration for Gray, and -eagerness to explore the region he had described in his short and -masterly letters with such energy, felt the same indifference as myself -to commonplace scenery.</p> - -<p>The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached Les Echelles, a -miserable village, with but few of its chimneys smoking, situated at the -base of a mountain, round which had gathered a concourse of red and -greyish clouds. I was heartily glad to leave these forlorn and wretched -quarters at the first dawn of the next day. We were now obliged to -abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded towards the mountains, -which, with the valleys between them, form what is called the Desert of -the Carthusians.</p> - -<p>In an hour’s time we were drawing near, and could discern the opening of -a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which rose lofty -peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We could now distinguish -the roar<a name="page_vol_1_297" id="page_vol_1_297"></a> of torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, issuing from -dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was somewhat startled. -I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and it was not without a -degree of unwillingness that I left the gay pastures and enlivening -sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy and disturbed region. How -dreadful, thought I, must be the despair of those, who enter it, never -to return!</p> - -<p>But after the first impression was worn away all my curiosity redoubled; -and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, we made such -good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain were soon left -far behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the torrent, whose -agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had inspired. Into the -midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our -horses, and, when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means -displeased to have passed them.</p> - -<p>We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks -diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, and the -sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began to ascend -towards the entrance<a name="page_vol_1_298" id="page_vol_1_298"></a> of the desert, marked by two pinnacles of rock far -above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. Every moment we -approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had alarmed us; and, -suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several mills and -forges, with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over the -torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in the precipices; on -one side of which I perceived our road winding along, till it was -stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock above one of the forges was -hollowed into the shape of a round tower, of no great size, but -resembling very much an altar in figure; and, what added greatly to the -grandeur of the object, was a livid flame continually palpitating upon -it, which the gloom of the valley rendered perfectly discernible.</p> - -<p>The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become so -narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too well -acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, therefore, -I walked towards the edge of the great fell, and there, leaning on a -fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, where the waters -were hurled along over<a name="page_vol_1_299" id="page_vol_1_299"></a> broken pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. -Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, -frowning on the brows of the mountains.</p> - -<p>It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, and -penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I believe, -uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the dashing of the -wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of the forges, that -what I said was luckily undistinguishable.</p> - -<p>I was not yet, however, within the consecrated enclosure, and therefore -not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced in silence up -the path, which led to the great portal. When we arrived before it, I -rested a moment, and looking against the stout oaken gate, which closed -up the entrance to this unknown region, felt at my heart a certain awe, -that brought to my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient days -going to be admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries.</p> - -<p>My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly -opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again carefully -closed.<a name="page_vol_1_300" id="page_vol_1_300"></a></p> - -<p>I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by peaks -of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving downwards -till their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the water, over -which hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. The rocks seemed -crowding upon me, and, by their particular situation, threatened to -obstruct every ray of light; but, notwithstanding the menacing -appearance of the prospect, I still kept following my guide, up a craggy -ascent, partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the trunks of -ancient fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till we came to a -dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over the dell.</p> - -<p>The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents rushing with -additional violence are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; every -object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway between the -base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. The channel of -the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the pale willows and -wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas of those dismal -abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts of -conquered<a name="page_vol_1_301" id="page_vol_1_301"></a> warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was regarding these -regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my eyes to vary the -scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs glistening with the light -of the sun, to emerge from these melancholy forests.</p> - -<p>On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a moment -its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written <small>VIA COELI</small>. The cliffs -being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the edge of the -precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the rocks, in which -several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. Here we reposed an -instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, piercing the thickets -and gilding the waters that bubbled from the rock, over which hung -another cross, inscribed with this short sentence, which the situation -rendered wonderfully pathetic, <span class="smcap">O SPES UNICA!</span> the fervent exclamation of -some wretch disgusted with the world whose only consolation was found in -this retirement.<a name="page_vol_1_302" id="page_vol_1_302"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-grch" id="LETTER_II-grch"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Thick forest of beech trees.—Fearful glimpses of the -torrent.—Throne of Moses.—Lofty bridge.—Distant view of the -Convent.—Profound calm.—Enter the convent gate.—Arched -aisle.—Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.—The Secretary and -Procurator.—Conversation with them.—A walk amongst the cloisters -and galleries.—Pictures of different Convents of the order.—Grand -Hall adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life.</p></div> - -<p>We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech trees, -that screened in some measure the precipices on which they grew, -catching however every instant terrifying glimpses of the torrent below. -Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and falling over the -mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to join the great -torrent, athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering -bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing over to -his hermitage,<a name="page_vol_1_303" id="page_vol_1_303"></a> that just peeped above the woody labyrinths on the -opposite shore.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech -trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, which -he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received his -revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy ground, -for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of character as -would alone be sufficient to impress the idea.</p> - -<p>Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty -arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, -mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before two -cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue our -road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently -precipitating themselves from the woods and lashing the base of the -mountains, mossed over with a dark sea green.</p> - -<p>In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered my -prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, -that I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the -second portal beheld<a name="page_vol_1_304" id="page_vol_1_304"></a> with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the throne of -Moses.</p> - -<p>It was now about ten o’clock, and my guide assured me I should soon -discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, and -continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into another -gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we entered again -into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted by ridges of -cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the farther end of this -inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered turrets of the -Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow of the hill; beyond -them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents itself, terminated by -spires of rock and promontories lost amongst the clouds.</p> - -<p>The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and all the -scenes of horror and confusion I had passed were succeeded by a sacred -and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand sensations I -despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the convent with as -much awe as some novice or candidate newly arrived to solicit the holy -retirement of the order.<a name="page_vol_1_305" id="page_vol_1_305"></a></p> - -<p>As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost any -other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst the -porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court watered by -two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, characterized by a -noble simplicity.</p> - -<p>The interior portal opening discovered an arched aisle, extending till -the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily -distributed between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just -sufficient to distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. We -had scarcely set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to issue -from an arch, about half way down, and passing in a long succession from -their chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, and -dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone in the aisle.</p> - -<p>The father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with -great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more -pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so -common in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent -questions, he called one of the lay brothers,<a name="page_vol_1_306" id="page_vol_1_306"></a> who live in the convent -under less severe restrictions than the fathers, whom they serve, and -ordering him to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square -hall with casement windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous -chimney, whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, -on each side of which were two doors that communicated with the neat -little cells destined for our bed-chambers.</p> - -<p>Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means -unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang -which summoned him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set -before us the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left us -at full liberty to examine our chambers.</p> - -<p>The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light to -enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened by the -gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable air, -which even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers descended -with great violence, the lay brother and another of his companions were -placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the finest<a name="page_vol_1_307" id="page_vol_1_307"></a> -linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined a number -of portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, they -called us to a dinner widely different from what might have been -expected in so dreary a situation. Our attendant friar was helping us to -some Burgundy, of the happiest growth and vintage, when the coadjutor -returned, accompanied by two other fathers, the secretary and -procurator, whom he presented to us. You would have been both charmed -and surprised with the cheerful resignation that appeared in their -countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation.</p> - -<p>The coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his -countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and there -was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which could not -fail to interest. There were moments when the recollection of some past -event seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy that rendered it -still more affecting. I should suspect he formerly possessed a great -share of natural vivacity (something of it being still, indeed, apparent -in his more unguarded moments); but this spirit is almost<a name="page_vol_1_308" id="page_vol_1_308"></a> entirely -subdued by the penitence and mortification of the order.</p> - -<p>The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in the -political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive -correspondence these fathers preserve with the three hundred and sixty -subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all those countries where the -court of Rome still maintains its influence.</p> - -<p>In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions -about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had belonged -to their order; and principally that of Witham, which they had learnt to -be now in my possession.</p> - -<p>The secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere -these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the sake -of St. Hugo, their canonized prior. I replied greatly to his -satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour of St. Bruno, and the -holy prior of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly delighted -with the conversation, and made me promise to remain some days with -them. I readily complied with their request, and, continuing in the same -strain, that had so agreeably<a name="page_vol_1_309" id="page_vol_1_309"></a> affected their ears, was soon presented -with the works of St. Bruno, whom I so zealously admired.</p> - -<p>After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort of -subjects for about an hour, the coadjutor proposed a walk amongst the -cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any longer -excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, which -brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of -pictures, representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was -now in the capital of the order, where the general resides, and from -whence he issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute -the superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the -wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest districts -of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held annually -under him, a week or two after Easter.</p> - -<p>This reverend father died about ten days before our arrival: a week ago -they elected the prior of the Carthusian convent at Paris in his room, -and two fathers were now on their route to apprise him of their choice, -and to salute him General of the Carthusians. During this interregnum<a name="page_vol_1_310" id="page_vol_1_310"></a> -the coadjutor holds the first rank in the temporal, and the grand -vicaire in the spiritual affairs of the order; both of which are very -extensive.</p> - -<p>If I may judge from the representation of the different convents, which -adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for the -singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the landscapes -which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody island; -and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, struck -me as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries hung -formerly in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, together -with the old convent. The list only remains, with but a very few written -particulars concerning them.</p> - -<p>Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the -descriptions the coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery and -entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps burning -before them, on each side of a lofty portal. This opened into a grand -coved hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life, and -the portraits of the generals of the order, since the year of the great -founder<a name="page_vol_1_311" id="page_vol_1_311"></a>’s death (1085) to the present time. Under these portraits are -the stalls for the superiors, who assist at the grand convocation. In -front, appears the general’s throne; above, hangs a representation of -the canonized Bruno, crowned with stars.<a name="page_vol_1_312" id="page_vol_1_312"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_III-grch" id="LETTER_III-grch"></a>LETTER III.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.—Cells of the -Monks.—Severity of the order.—Death-like calm.—The great -Chapel.—Its interior.—Marvellous events relating to St. -Bruno.—Retire to my cell.—Strange writings of St. Bruno.—Sketch -of his Life.—Appalling occurrence.—Vision of the Bishop of -Grenoble.—First institution of the Carthusian order.—Death of St. -Bruno.—His translation.</p></div> - -<p>The coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked round -on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been drawing -near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of Bruno’s -miracles, pourtrayed on the lower panels of the hall. We left that room -to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in the roof) that brought -us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, from which branched off two -others, joining a fourth of the same most extraordinary dimensions. Vast -ranges of slender pillars extend round the different courts of<a name="page_vol_1_313" id="page_vol_1_313"></a> the -edifice, many of which are thrown into gardens belonging to particular -cells.</p> - -<p>We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much civility, -walked before us through a little corridor that looked on his garden, -showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave of the -coadjutor to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us depart with -concern. Nature has given this poor monk very considerable talents for -painting. He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in a manner -that discovers great facility of execution; but he is not allowed to -exercise his pencil on any other subject, lest he should be amused; and -amusement in this severe order is a crime. He had so subdued, so -mortified an appearance, that I was not sorry to hear the bell, which -summoned the coadjutor to prayers, and prevented my entering any more of -the cells. We continued straying from cloister to cloister, and -wandering along the winding passages and intricate galleries of this -immense edifice, whilst the coadjutor was assisting at vespers.</p> - -<p>In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: no -sound reached my ears but the “minute drops from off the eaves.” I<a name="page_vol_1_314" id="page_vol_1_314"></a> sat -down in a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, from -which I was recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, was -almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that I was -deliberating whether I should not remain with them for ever.</p> - -<p>But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the great -chapel, at which we at length arrived after traversing another labyrinth -of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance appeared quite -gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and owes its -cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of polished -marble) that admits the view of a lovely wood, and allows a full blaze -of light to dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, -in a plain but noble style of architecture.</p> - -<p>The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant us -admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel and -were struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple majesty of -the arched roof, and the mild solemn light equally diffused over every -part of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no glaring pictures disgraced -the sanctity of the<a name="page_vol_1_315" id="page_vol_1_315"></a> place. The high altar, standing distinct from the -walls, which were hung with a rich velvet, was the only object on which -many ornaments were lavished; and, it being a high festival, was -clustered with statues of gold, shrines, and candelabra of the -stateliest shape and most delicate execution. Four of the latter, of a -gigantic size, were placed on the steps; which, together with part of -the inlaid floor within the choir, were spread with beautiful carpets.</p> - -<p>The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, and -pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, produced -a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was visible only by -the feint external light admitted from above, the splendour and dignity -of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I retired a moment from it, and -seating myself in one of the furthermost stalls of the choir, looked -towards it, and fancied the whole structure had risen by “subtle magic,” -like an exhalation.</p> - -<p>Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and -should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive of -disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, and -were prostrating themselves<a name="page_vol_1_316" id="page_vol_1_316"></a> before the steps of the altar. These -venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; which as -the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the sparkling -of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, and the -gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, began to be -visible just as I left the chapel.</p> - -<p>Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich -embroidered vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we -regained the cloister which led to our apartment, where the supper was -ready prepared. We had scarcely finished it, when the coadjutor, and the -fathers who had accompanied us before, returned, and ranging themselves -round the fire, resumed the conversation about St. Bruno.</p> - -<p>Finding me disposed by the wonders I had seen in the day to listen to -things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate the inspirations -they had received from him, and his mysterious apparitions. I was all -attention, respect, and credulity. The old secretary worked himself up -to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much inclined to imagine -he believed in these moments all the marvellous events he related.<a name="page_vol_1_317" id="page_vol_1_317"></a> The -coadjutor being less violent in his pretensions to St. Bruno’s modern -miracles, contented himself with enumerating the noble works he had done -in the days of his fathers, and in the old time before them.</p> - -<p>It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their narrations, -and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, to return to my -cell, where everything invited to repose. I was charmed with the -neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its cabin-like bed, oratory, -and ebony crucifix; in short, every thing it contained; not forgetting -the aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, floored, and -wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had the moon appeared, I could -not have prevailed upon myself to have quitted her till very late; but, -as it happened, I crept into my cabin, and was by “whispering winds soon -lulled asleep.”</p> - -<p>Eight o’clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to my great -sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled in -vapours, and the rain descending with violence.</p> - -<p>After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements -admitted but a very feeble<a name="page_vol_1_318" id="page_vol_1_318"></a> gleam), I sat down to the works of St. -Bruno; of all medleys one of the strangest. Allegories without end; a -theologico-natural history of birds, beasts, and fishes; several -chapters on paradise; the delights of solitude; the glory of Solomon’s -temple; the new Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful subjects, full -of the loftiest enthusiasm. The revered author of this strangely -abstruse and mystic volume was certainly a being of no common order, nor -do we find in the wide circle of legendary traditions an event recorded, -better calculated to inspire the utmost degree of religious terror than -that which determined him to the monastic state.</p> - -<p>St. Bruno was of noble descent, and possessed considerable wealth. Not -less remarkable for the qualities of his mind, their assiduous -cultivation obtained for him the chair of master of the great sciences -in the University of Rheims, where he contracted an intimate friendship -with Odo, afterwards Pope Urban II. Though it appears that a very -cheering degree of public approbation, and all the blandishments of a -society highly polished for the period, contributed, not unprofitably -one should think, to fill up his time, always singular,<a name="page_vol_1_319" id="page_vol_1_319"></a> always -visionary, he began early in life to loathe the world, and sigh after -retirement.</p> - -<p>But a most appalling occurrence converted these sighs into the deepest -groans. A man, who had borne the highest character for the exercise of -every virtue, died, and was being carried to the grave. The procession, -of which Bruno formed a part, was moving slowly on, when a low, mournful -sound issued from the bier. The corpse was distinctly seen to lift up -its ghastly countenance, and as distinctly heard to articulate these -words—“<i>I am summoned to trial.</i>” After an agonizing pause, the same -terrific voice declared—“<i>I stand before the tribunal.</i>” Some further -moments of amazement and horror having elapsed, the dead body lifted -itself up a third time, and moving its livid lips uttered forth this -dreadful sentence—“<i>I am condemned by the just judgment of God.</i>” -“Alas! alas!” exclaimed Bruno—“of how little avail are apparent good -works, or the favourable opinion of mankind!</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Ubi fugiam nisi ad te?—<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">Thy mercies alone can save, and it is not in the frivolous and seductive -intercourse of a worldly life those mercies can be obtained.<a name="page_vol_1_320" id="page_vol_1_320"></a>”</p> - -<p>Stricken to the heart by these reflections, he hurried in a fever of -terror and alarm (the sepulchral voice still ringing in his ears) to -Grenoble, of which see one of his dearest friends, the venerable Hugo, -had lately been appointed bishop.</p> - -<p>This saintly prelate soothed the dreadful agitation of his spirits by -relating to him a revelation he had just received in a dream.</p> - -<p>“As I slept,” said Hugo, “methought the desert mountains beyond Grenoble -became suddenly visible in the dead of night by the streaming of seven -lucid stars which hung directly over them. Whilst I remained absorbed in -the contemplation of this wonder, an awful voice seemed to break the -nocturnal silence, declaring their dreary solitudes thy future abode, O -Bruno!—by thee to be consecrated as a retirement for holy men desirous -of holding converse with their God. No shepherd’s pipe shall be heard -within these precincts; no huntsman’s profane feet ever invade their -fastnesses; nor shall woman ascend this mountain, or violate by her -allurements the sacred repose of its inhabitants.”</p> - -<p>Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop of -Grenoble delivered them<a name="page_vol_1_321" id="page_vol_1_321"></a> to Bruno, who selecting a few persons that, -like himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the charms of -society, repaired with them to this spot; and, in the darkest parts of -the forests which shade the most gloomy recesses of the mountains, -founded the first convent of Carthusians, long since destroyed.</p> - -<p>Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of the -most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct reaching -Rome, (where his friend had been lately invested with the papal tiara,) -the whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and entreated Urban to -invite him to Rome. The request of Christ’s vicegerent was not to be -refused; and Bruno quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some of his -disciples behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously the -infant order.</p> - -<p>The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had -weaned himself entirely from worldly affections.</p> - -<p>Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy -metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to -retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking the -wilds of Calabria,<a name="page_vol_1_322" id="page_vol_1_322"></a> there sequestered himself in a lonely hermitage, -calmly expecting his last moments.</p> - -<p>In his death there was no bitterness. A celestial radiance shone around -him even before he closed his eyes upon this frail existence, and many a -venerable witness has testified that the voices of angelic beings were -heard calling him to come and receive his reward; but as the different -accounts of his translation are not essentially varied, it would be -tedious to recite them.<a name="page_vol_1_323" id="page_vol_1_323"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IV-grch" id="LETTER_IV-grch"></a>LETTER IV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Mystic discourse.—A mountain ramble.—A benevolent Hermit.—Red -light in the northern sky.—Lose my way in the solitary -hills.—Approach of night.</p></div> - -<p>I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the writings of this holy -and highly-gifted personage when the dinner appeared, consisting of -everything most delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre -could allow. The good fathers returned as usual before our repast was -half over, and resumed as usual their mystic discourse, looking all the -time rather earnestly into my countenance to observe the sort of effect -their most marvellous narrations produced upon it.</p> - -<p>Our conversation, which was beginning to take a gloomy and serious turn, -was interrupted, I thought very agreeably, by the sudden intrusion of -the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full splendour above -the highest peak of the<a name="page_vol_1_324" id="page_vol_1_324"></a> mountains, and the vapours fleeting by degrees -discovered the woods in all the freshness of their verdure. The pleasure -I received from seeing this new creation rising to view was very lively, -and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their walks did not often -continue longer than the showers, I left my hall.</p> - -<p>Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly -along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the forests, -enjoyed the charms of the prospect inhaled the perfume of the woodlands, -and now turning towards the summits of the precipices that encircled -this sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours they borrowed from -the sun, contrasted by the dark hues of the forest. Now, casting my eyes -below, I suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from one -stream (beset with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. The -purity of the air in these exalted regions, and the lightness of my own -spirits, almost seized me with the idea of treading in that element.</p> - -<p>Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and falling -waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness and<a name="page_vol_1_325" id="page_vol_1_325"></a> -rapidity that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the appearance -of one possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with the scene to -a degree I despair of expressing.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange ideas, -a father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, stopped my -career, and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench erected under -a neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and disordered looks, -fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk near the snows of -the mountains had alarmed me by his sudden appearance.</p> - -<p>The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to -recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity as -his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning in a -few moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into which he let -fall several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable herbs, and -having performed this deed of charity, signified to me by a look, in -which benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little remains of -curiosity were strongly painted, how sorry he was to<a name="page_vol_1_326" id="page_vol_1_326"></a> be restrained by -his vow of silence from enquiring into the cause of my agitation, and -giving me farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose to -carry on the adventure, and suffered him to depart with all his -conjectures unsatisfied.</p> - -<p>No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit than I started up, -and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the edge of a -woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running from the -opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the cliffs, now -but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some time sinking on -our narrow horizon, reflected that it would be madness to bewilder -myself, at so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. Being thus -determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating into the -lovely region before me, and contented myself for some moments with -marking the pale tints of the evening gradually overspreading the -cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of the setting sun.</p> - -<p>But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by a red -light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my<a name="page_vol_1_327" id="page_vol_1_327"></a> notice as I -sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down what appeared to be a -fathomless ravine blackened by the shade of impervious forests, above -which rose majestically the varied peaks and promontories of the -mountains.</p> - -<p>The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next -caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the valley, -when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange fantastic -shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, passed on, like a -solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway between the stream that -watered it below, and the summits of the cliffs on high.</p> - -<p>The tranquillity of the region, the verdure of the lawn, environed by -girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, filled -me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted up my eyes to -the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming with ruddy -light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering over the space -beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews which began to descend, -and the vapours which were rising from every dell, reminded me of the -lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance that I turned<a name="page_vol_1_328" id="page_vol_1_328"></a> -from the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, and traversed -slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over which I had hurried with -such eagerness an hour ago.</p> - -<p>Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I had -passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following a -different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep -valley. Another moment, descending into the hollows between the hillocks -that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I fancied I had -entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment to be lost amongst -the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around.</p> - -<p>As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more -forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; and -whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and on every -side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp which might -indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I flattered myself, -would direct me to the monastery.</p> - -<p>At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, -unexpectedly, under<a name="page_vol_1_329" id="page_vol_1_329"></a> the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the -gate, the attendant lay-brothers came out with lights, in order to -search for me; scarcely had I joined them, when the Coadjutor and the -Secretary came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their -uneasiness at my long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, where -Mr. Lettice was waiting, with no small degree of impatience; but I found -not a word had been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, -I believe, he strictly kept his vow till the day when the Carthusians -are allowed to speak, and which happened after my departure.<a name="page_vol_1_330" id="page_vol_1_330"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_V-grch" id="LETTER_V-grch"></a>LETTER V.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Pastoral Scenery of Valombré.—Ascent of the highest Peak in the -Desert.—Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.—Farewell benediction of -the Fathers.</p></div> - -<p>We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a -circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon -gleamed through the casements, and the stars sparkling above the forests -of pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give myself up -entirely to the spectacle they offered.</p> - -<p>The coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through the -windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay-brother, ordered him to -open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not long before -I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from the courts and -cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, ascended -a green knoll,<a name="page_vol_1_331" id="page_vol_1_331"></a> which several ancient pines strongly marked with their -shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted up my eyes -to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered by the -trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on the woods which -fringed their acclivities.</p> - -<p>The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the -torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale blueish haze, -that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky -promontories above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the deepest -azure, innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual clearness from -this elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the -promontories. White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the -moon, that shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves -far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, throwing itself -from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy vales, was mingled with -the blast that blew from the mountains.</p> - -<p>It increased. The forests began to wave, black clouds rose from the -north, and, as they<a name="page_vol_1_332" id="page_vol_1_332"></a> fleeted along, approached the moon, whose light -they shortly extinguished. A moment of darkness succeeded; the gust was -chill and melancholy; it swept along the desert, and then subsiding, the -vapours began to pass away, and the moon returned; the grandeur of the -scene was renewed, and its imposing solemnity was increased by her -presence. Inspiration was in every wind.</p> - -<p>I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains -before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild woods -and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I eagerly -contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his eyes; drank of -the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran to -every pine, whose withered appearance bespoke the most remote antiquity, -and beneath which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn -with vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his institutions. It -was midnight before I returned to the convent and retired to my quiet -chamber, but my imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far -too active, to allow me any rest for some time.<a name="page_vol_1_333" id="page_vol_1_333"></a></p> - -<p>I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious -blast, which drove open my casement, for it was a troubled and -tempestuous night, and let in the roar of the tempest. In the intervals -of the storm, in those moments when the winds seemed to pause, the faint -sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but were swallowed up the next -instant by the redoubled fury of the gust, which was still increased by -the roar of the waters.</p> - -<p>I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as well -as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, than I -arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll, where I -had stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure -morning air delightfully refreshing: every tree, every shrub, glistened -with dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the fir-trees -on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly into the clear -blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into the valley between the steeps of -wood and the turrets of the convent, and passed the different buildings, -destined for the manufacture of the articles necessary to the fathers; -for nothing is<a name="page_vol_1_334" id="page_vol_1_334"></a> worn or used within this inclosure, which comes from the -profane world.</p> - -<p>Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was so -lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, which I -crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to an eminence, -covered with a hanging wood of beech-trees feathered to the ground, from -whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a -smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed -up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of shrubs, -entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; at one -extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had directed me -to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous group of cattle, -lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with -long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking them.</p> - -<p>The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that -skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, -dappled cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant -with their venerable beards,<a name="page_vol_1_335" id="page_vol_1_335"></a> formed a picturesque and certainly very -singular spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold “milk-maids -singing blithe,” and tripping lightly along with their pails, was not a -little surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures shifted -their trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with what -adroitness they performed their functions, managing their long beards -with a facility and cleanliness equally admirable.</p> - -<p>I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, -before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, -than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down -his pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, -desired me to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, -observing what was going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an -hospitable act, and, quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods, -from whence he returned in a few minutes with some strawberries, very -neatly enveloped in fresh leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, -next invited me to the cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred -the shade of the beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic<a name="page_vol_1_336" id="page_vol_1_336"></a> -herbage, I enjoyed the pastoral character of the scene with all possible -glee.</p> - -<p>Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable gaudy -flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by the -cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs and -forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the -summer hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my -repose in this most delightful of valleys.</p> - -<p>When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I -could converse was the charms of Valombré, for so is this beautifully -wooded region most appropriately called. Notwithstanding the -indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded the -monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, of -conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert.</p> - -<p>Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following his -steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them, -strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, and -dedicated to St. Bruno.<a name="page_vol_1_337" id="page_vol_1_337"></a></p> - -<p>Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on which -this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed on a -lofty green mountain, from whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a -surprising elevation; and which (owing to the sun’s reflection on a -transparent mist hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary -light. This object was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my -activity, I made the best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and -crumbled fragments of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I came -to the green steeps I had surveyed at a distance.</p> - -<p>These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered -beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bade adieu to summer, and -entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the -mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the -crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot -of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets.</p> - -<p>After taking a few moments’ repose, my guide prepared to clamber amongst -the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was able, till -laying hold of the trunk of a withered<a name="page_vol_1_338" id="page_vol_1_338"></a> pine, we sprang upon a small -level space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast -desert and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, -the green meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the -barrier of mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant -countries; the plains where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes -of Savoy; amongst which that of Bourget was near enough to discover its -beauties, all glowing with the warm haze of the setting sun.</p> - -<p>My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey, so turning my eyes -from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks, -through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest -greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others -by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs I -had so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon.</p> - -<p>The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in it -till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time I -visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered -large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which with -a<a name="page_vol_1_339" id="page_vol_1_339"></a> surprising variety of other plants carpeted this lovely glen. A -luxuriant vegetation,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">That on the green turf suck’d the honey’d showers,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And purpled all the ground with vernal flowers.<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it would -be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures of -the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I was -very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches in -the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. This -prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several -thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every -minute, shortly skreened the green mountain and all the forest from our -sight. A sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning -began to flash from a dark angry cloud that hung over the valleys and -deluged them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear -expanse of æther.</p> - -<p>But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; -so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and, -carefully following my guide (for a false step<a name="page_vol_1_340" id="page_vol_1_340"></a> might have caused my -destruction) wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak -behind, and just as we reached the green mountain which was moistened -with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its -serenity.</p> - -<p>Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, and -soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand -amphitheatre of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond -which appeared the neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, -where we arrived as the moon was beginning to assume her empire.</p> - -<p>I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the day. -The next morning early, I quitted my kind hosts with great reluctance. -The coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to the outward gate, -and there within the solemn circle of the desert bestowed on me their -benediction.</p> - -<p>It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me till -I was an hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their hands on -their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the world, -here was an asylum.<a name="page_vol_1_341" id="page_vol_1_341"></a></p> - -<p>I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my -road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate in the midst of the -wide world again, it increased.</p> - -<p>We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chambery, and, instead of -going through Aix, passed by Annecy; but nothing in all the route -engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld -the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs.</p> - -<p>I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I -could sit and think of Valombré.<a name="page_vol_1_343" id="page_vol_1_343"></a><a name="page_vol_2_342" id="page_vol_2_342"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="SALEVE" id="SALEVE"></a>SALEVE.<a name="page_vol_1_345" id="page_vol_1_345"></a><a name="page_vol_2_344" id="page_vol_2_344"></a></h2> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-sal" id="LETTER_I-sal"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.—Pas -d’Echelle.—Moneti.—Bird’s-eye prospects.—Alpine -flowers.—Extensive view from the summit of Saleve.—Youthful -enthusiasm.—Sad realities.</p></div> - -<p>I had long wished to revisit the holt of trees so conspicuous on the -summit of Saleve, and set forth this morning to accomplish that purpose. -Brandoin an artist, once the delight of our travelling lords and ladies, -accompanied me. We rode pleasantly and sketchingly along through Carouge -to the base of the mountain, taking views every now and then of -picturesque stumps and cottages.</p> - -<p>At length, after a good deal of lackadaisical loitering on the banks of -the Arve, we reached a sort of goats’ path, leading to some steps cut<a name="page_vol_1_346" id="page_vol_1_346"></a> -in the rock, and justly called the Pas d’Echelle. I need not say we were -obliged to dismount and toil up this ladder, beyond which rise steeps of -verdure shaded by walnuts.</p> - -<p>These brought us to Moneti, a rude straggling village, with its church -tower embosomed in gigantic limes. We availed ourselves of their deep -cool shade to dine as comfortably as a whole posse of withered hags, who -seemed to have been just alighted from their broomsticks, would allow -us.</p> - -<p>About half past three, a sledge drawn by four oxen was got ready to drag -us up to the holt of trees, the goal to which we were tending: -stretching ourselves on the straw spread over our vehicle, we set off -along a rugged path, conducted aslant the steep slope of the mountain, -vast prospects opening as we ascended; to our right the crags of the -little Saleve—the variegated plains of Gex and Chablais, separated by -the lake; below, Moneti, almost concealed in wood; behind, the mole, -lifting up its pyramidical summit amidst the wild amphitheatre of -glaciers, which lay this evening in dismal shadow, the sun being -overcast, the Jura<a name="page_vol_1_347" id="page_vol_1_347"></a> half lost in rainy mists, and a heavy storm -darkening the Fort de l’Ecluse. Except a sickly gleam cast on the snows -of the Buet, not a ray of sunshine enlivened our landscape.</p> - -<p>This sorrowful colouring agreed but too well with the dejection of my -spirits. I suffered melancholy recollections to take full possession of -me, and glancing my eyes over the vast map below, sought out those spots -where I had lived so happy with my lovely Margaret. On them did I -eagerly gaze—absorbed in the consciousness of a fatal, irreparable -loss, I little noticed the transports expressed by my companion at the -grand effects of light and shade, which obeyed the movements of the -clouds; nor was I more attentive to the route of our oxen, which, -perfectly familiarized with precipices, preferred their edge to the bank -on the other side, and by this choice gave us an opportunity of looking -down more than a thousand feet perpendicularly on the wild shrubberies -and shattered rocks deep below, at the base of the mountain. In general -I shrink back from such bird’s-eye prospects with my head in a whirl, -and yet, by<a name="page_vol_1_348" id="page_vol_1_348"></a> a most unaccountable fascination, feel a feverish impulse -to throw myself into the very gulph I abhor; but to-day I lay in passive -indifference, listlessly extended on our moving bed.</p> - -<p>Its progress being extremely deliberate, we had leisure to observe, as -we crept along, a profusion of Alpine flowers; but none of those -gorgeous insects mentioned by Saussure as abounding on Saleve were -fluttering about them. This was no favourable day for butterfly -excursions; the flowers laden with heavy drops, the forerunners of still -heavier rain, hung down their heads. We passed several chalets, formed -of mud and stone, instead of the neat timber, with which those on the -Swiss mountains are constructed. Meagre peasants, whose sallow -countenances looked quite of a piece with the sandy hue of their -habitations, kept staring at us from crevices and hollow places: the -fresh roses of a garden are not more different from the rank weeds of an -unhealthy swamp, than these wretched objects from the ruddy inhabitants -of Switzerland.</p> - -<p>My heart sank as we were driven alongside of one of these squalid -groups, huddled together<a name="page_vol_1_349" id="page_vol_1_349"></a> under a blasted beech in expectation of a -storm. The wind drove the smoke and sparks of a fire just kindled at the -root of the tree, full in the face of an infant, whose mother had -abandoned it to implore our charity with outstretched withered hands. -The poor helpless being filled the air with waitings, and being tightly -swaddled lip in yellow rags, according to Savoyarde custom, exhibited an -appearance in form and colour not unlike that of an overgrown pumpkin -thrown on the ground out of the way. How should I have enjoyed setting -its limbs at liberty, and transporting it to the swelling bosom of a -Bernese peasant! such as I have seen in untaxed garments, red, blue and -green, with hair falling in braids mixed with flowers and silver -trinkets, hurrying along to some wake or wedding, with that firm step -and smiling hilarity which the consciousness of freedom inspires.</p> - -<p>A few minutes dragging beyond the tree just mentioned, we reached the -bold verdant slopes of delicate short herbage which crown the crags of -the mountain. We now moved smoothly along the turf, brushing it with our -hands to<a name="page_vol_1_350" id="page_vol_1_350"></a> extract its aromatic fragrance, and having no longer rough -stones to encounter, our conveyance became so agreeable that we -regretted our arrival before a chalet, under a clump of weather-beaten -beach. These are the identical trees, so far and widely discovered, on -the summit of Saleve, and the point to which we had been tending.</p> - -<p>Seating ourselves on the very edge of a rocky cornice, we surveyed the -busy crowded territory of Geneva, the vast reach of the lake, its coast, -thickset with castles, towns, and villages, and the long line of the -Jura protecting these richly cultivated possessions. Turning round, we -traced the course of the Arve up to its awful sanctuary, the Alps of -Savoy, above which rose the Mont-Blanc in deadly paleness, backed by a -gloomy sky; nothing could form a stronger contrast to the populous and -fertile plains in front of the mountain than this chaos of snowy peaks -and melancholy deserts, the loftiest in the old world, held up in the -air, and beaten, in spite of summer, with wintry storms.</p> - -<p>I know not how long we should have remained examining the prospect had -the weather been<a name="page_vol_1_351" id="page_vol_1_351"></a> favourable, and had we enjoyed one of those serene -evenings to be expected in the month of July. Many such have I passed in -my careless childish days, stretched out on the brow of this very -mountain, contemplating the heavenly azure of the lake, the innumerable -windows of the villas below blazing in the setting sun, and the glaciers -suffused by its last ray with a blushing pink. How often, giving way to -youthful enthusiasm, have I peopled these singularly varied peaks with -gnomes and fairies, the distributors of gold and crystal to those who -adventurously scaled their lofty abode.</p> - -<p>This evening my fancy was led to no such gay aërial excursions; sad -realities chained it to the earth, and to the scene before my eyes, -which, in lowering, sombre hue, corresponded with my interior gloom. A -rude blast driving us off the margin of the precipices, we returned to -the shelter of the beech. There we found some disappointed butterfly -catchers, probably of the watch-making tribe, and a silly boy gaping -after them with a lank net and empty boxes. This being Monday, I thought -the Saleve had been delivered from such intruders; but it seems that<a name="page_vol_1_352" id="page_vol_1_352"></a> -the rage for natural history has so victoriously pervaded all ranks of -people in the republic, that almost every day in the week sends forth -some of its journeymen to ransack the neighbouring cliffs, and transfix -unhappy butterflies.</p> - -<p>Silversmiths and toymen, possessed by the spirit of De Luc and De -Saussure’s lucubrations, throw away the light implements of their trade, -and sally forth with hammer and pickaxe to pound pebbles and knock at -the door of every mountain for information. Instead of furbishing up -teaspoons and sorting watch-chains, they talk of nothing but quartz and -feldspath. One flourishes away on the durability of granite, whilst -another treats calcareous rocks with contempt; but as human pleasures -are seldom perfect and permanent, acrimonious disputes too frequently -interrupt the calm of the philosophic excursion. Squabbles arise about -the genus of a coralite, or concerning that element which has borne the -greatest part in the convulsion of nature. The advocate of water too -often sneaks home to his wife with a tattered collar, whilst the -partisan of fire and volcanoes lies vanquished in a puddle, or winding -up the clue of his argument in a solitary<a name="page_vol_1_353" id="page_vol_1_353"></a> ditch. I cannot help thinking -so diffused a taste for fossils and petrifactions of no very particular -benefit to the artisans of Geneva, and that watches would go as well, -though their makers were less enlightened.<a name="page_vol_1_354" id="page_vol_1_354"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-sal" id="LETTER_II-sal"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Chalet under the Beech-trees.—A mountain Bridge.—Solemnity of the -Night.—The Comedie.—Relaxation of Genevese Morality.</p></div> - -<p>It began to rain just as we entered the chalet under the beech-trees, -and one of the dirtiest I ever crept into—it would have been -uncharitable not to have regretted the absence of swine, for here was -mud and filth enough to have insured their felicity. A woman, whose -teeth of a shining whiteness were the only clean objects I could -discover, brought us foaming bowls of cream and milk, with which we -regaled ourselves, and then got into our vehicle. We but too soon left -the smooth herbage behind, and passed about an hour in rambling down the -mountain pelted by the showers, from which we took shelter under the -limes at Moneti.</p> - -<p>Here we should have drunk our tea in peace<a name="page_vol_1_355" id="page_vol_1_355"></a> and quietness, had it not -been for the incursion of a gang of bandylegged watchmakers, smoking -their pipes, and scraping their fiddles, and snapping their fingers, -with all that insolent vulgarity so characteristic of the Rue-basse -portion of the Genevese community. We got out of their way, you may -easily imagine, as fast as we were able, and descending a rough road, -most abominably strewn with rolling pebbles, arrived at the bridge -d’Etrombieres just as it fell dark. The mouldering planks with which the -bridge is awkwardly put together, sounded suspiciously hollow under the -feet of our horses, and had it not been for the friendly light of a pine -torch which a peasant brought forth, we might have been tumbled into the -Arve.</p> - -<p>It was a mild summer night, the rainy clouds were dissolving away with a -murmur of distant thunder so faint as to be scarcely heard. From time to -time a flash of summer lightning discovered the lonely tower of Moneti -on the edge of the lesser Saleve. The ghostly tales, which the old curè -of the mountains had told me at a period when I hungered and thirsted -after supernatural narrations, recurred to my memory, in all<a name="page_vol_1_356" id="page_vol_1_356"></a> their -variety of horrors, and kept it fully employed till I found myself under -the walls of Geneva. The gates were shut, but I knew they were to be -opened again at ten o’clock for the convenience of those returning from -the <i>Comedie</i>.</p> - -<p>The <i>Comedie</i> is become of wonderful importance; but a few years ago the -very name of a play was held in such abhorrence by the spiritual -consistory of Geneva and its obsequious servants, which then included -the best part of the republic, that the partakers and abettors of such -diversions were esteemed on the high road to eternal perdition. Though, -God knows, I am unconscious of any extreme partiality for Calvin, I -cannot help thinking his severe discipline wisely adapted to the moral -constitution of this starch bit of a republic which he took to his grim -embraces. But these days of rigidity and plainness are completely gone -by; the soft spirit of toleration, so eloquently insinuated by Voltaire, -has removed all thorny fences, familiarized his numerous admirers with -every innovation, and laughed scruples of every nature to scorn. -Voltaire, indeed, may justly be styled the architect of that gay -well-ornamented bridge, by which<a name="page_vol_1_357" id="page_vol_1_357"></a> freethinking and immorality have been -smuggled into the republic under the mask of philosophy and liberality -and sentiment. These monsters, like the Sin and Death of Milton, have -made speedy and irreparable havoc. To facilitate their operations, rose -the genius of “Rentes Viagères” at his bidding, tawdry villas with their -little pert groves of poplar and horse-chesnut start up—his power -enables Madame C. D. the bookseller’s lady to amuse the D. of G. with -assemblies, sets Parisian cabriolets and English phaetons rolling from -one faro table to another, and launches innumerable pleasure parties -with banners and popguns on the lake, drumming and trumpeting away their -time from morn till evening. I recollect, not many years past, how -seldom the echoes of the mountains were profaned by such noises, and how -rarely the drones of Geneva, if any there were in that once industrious -city, had opportunities of displaying their idleness; but now -Dissipation reigns triumphant, and to pay the tribute she exacts, every -fool runs headlong to throw his scrapings into the voracious whirlpool -of annuities; little caring, provided he feeds high and lolls in his -carriage, what becomes<a name="page_vol_1_358" id="page_vol_1_358"></a> of his posterity. I had ample time to make these -reflections, as the <i>Comedie</i> lasted longer than usual.</p> - -<p>Luckily the night improved, the storms had rolled away, and the moon -rising from behind the crags of the lesser Saleve cast a pleasant gleam -on the smooth turf of plain-palais, where we walked to and fro above -half an hour. We had this extensive level almost entirely to ourselves, -no light glimmered in any window, no sound broke the general stillness, -except a low murmur proceeding from a group of chesnut trees. There, -snug under a garden wall on a sequestered bench, sat two or three -Genevois of the old stamp, chewing the cud of sober sermons—men who -receive not more than seven or eight per cent. for their money; there -sat they waiting for their young ones, who had been seduced to the -theatre.</p> - -<p>A loud hubbub and glare of flambeaus proclaiming the end of the play, we -left these good folks to their rumination, and regaining our carriage -rattled furiously through the streets of Geneva, once so quiet, so -silent at these hours, to the no small terror and annoyance of those -whom Rentes Viagères had not yet provided<a name="page_vol_1_359" id="page_vol_1_359"></a> with a speedier conveyance -than their own legs, or a brighter satellite than an old cook-maid with -a candle and lantern.</p> - -<p>It was eleven o’clock before we reached home, and near two before I -retired to rest, having sat down immediately to write this letter whilst -the impressions of the day were fresh in my memory.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c"><small>END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</small><br /><br /><br /> -<small>LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,<br /> -Dorset Street, Fleet Street.</small></p> - -<hr /> - -<h1>ITALY;<br /> -<small>WITH SKETCHES OF</small><br /><br /> -SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.<br /> </h1> - -<p class="cb">BY THE AUTHOR OF “VATHEK.”<br /><br /><br /> -THIRD EDITION.<br /><br /> -IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /><br /> -VOL. II.<br /><br /><br /><br /> -LONDON:<br /> -RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,<br /> -<span class="eng">Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.</span><br /> -1835.</p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS-2" id="CONTENTS-2"></a> -CONTENTS<br /> -<br /> -OF<br /> -<br /> -THE SECOND VOLUME.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border:none;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;max-width:30em;"> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#PORTUGAL">PORTUGAL.</a></big></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-port">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Detained at Falmouth.—Navigation at a stop.—An evening -ramble.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>Page 5</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-port">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.—Piety and gin.—Rapid -progress of Methodism.—Freaks of fortune.—Pernicious -extravagance.—Minerals.—Mr. Beauchamp’s mansion.—Beautiful -lake.—The wind still contrary.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>8</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_III-port">LETTER III.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A lovely morning.—Antiquated mansion.—Its lady.—Ancestral -effigies.—Collection of animals.—Serene evening.—Owls.—Expected -dreams.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>12</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IV-port">LETTER IV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A blustering night.—Tedium of the language of the -compass.—Another excursion to Trefusis.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>16</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_V-port">LETTER V.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Regrets produced by contrasts.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>19</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VI-port">LETTER VI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Still no prospect of embarkation.—Pen-dennis Castle.—Luxuriant -vegetation.—A serene day.—Anticipations of -the voyage.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>21</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VII-port">LETTER VII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Portugal.—Excursion to Pagliavam.—The villa.—Dismal -labyrinths in the Dutch style.—Roses.—Anglo-Portuguese -Master of the Horse.—Interior of the Palace.—Furniture -in petticoats.—Force of education.—Royalty without power.—Return -from the Palace.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>23</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VIII-port">LETTER VIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Glare of the climate in Portugal.—Apish luxury.—Botanic -Gardens.—Açafatas.—Description of the Gardens and -Terraces.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>29</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IX-port">LETTER IX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.—Pathetic Music.—Valley -of Alcantara.—Enormous Aqueduct.—Visit to the -Marialva Palace.—Its much revered Masters.—Collection of -rarities.—The Viceroy of Algarve.—Polyglottery.—A -night-scene.—Modinhas.—Extraordinary Procession.—Blessings -of Patriarchal Government.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>34</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_X-port">LETTER X.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Festival of the Corpo de Deos.—Striking decoration of the -streets.—The Patriarchal Cathedral.—Coming forth of the -Sacrament in awful state.—Gorgeous procession.—Bewildering -confusion of sounds.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>47</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XI-port">LETTER XI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S——.—His Brazilian -wife.—Magnificent Repast.—A tragic damsel.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>51</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XII-port">LETTER XII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Pass the day at Belem.—Visit the neighbouring Monastery.—Habitation -of King Emanuel.—A gold Custodium of -exquisite workmanship.—The Church.—Bonfires on the -edge of the Tagus.—Fire-works.—Images of the Holy -One of Lisbon.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>55</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIII-port">LETTER XIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The New Church of St. Anthony.—Sprightly Music.—Enthusiastic -Sermon.—The good Prior of Avia.—Visit to -the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.—Spectres of the Order.—Striking -effigy of the Saviour.—A young and melancholy -Carthusian.—The Cemetery.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>59</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIV-port">LETTER XIV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Curious succession of visiters.—A Seraphic Doctor.—Monsenhor -Aguilar.—Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.—Visit -to the Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.—The -Archbishop Confessor.—Brazilian Modinhas.—Bewitching -nature of that music.—Nocturnal processions.—Enthusiasm -of the young Conde de Villanova.—No accounting for -fancies.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>68</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XV-port">LETTER XV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.—Night-sounds of the city.—Public -gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.—Visit -to the Anjeja Palace.—The heir of the family.—Marvellous -narrations of a young priest.—Convent of -Savoyard nuns.—Father Theodore’s chickens.—Sequestered -group of beauties.—Singing of the Scarlati.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>77</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVI-port">LETTER XVI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.—Negro Beldames.—Quinta of -Marvilla.—Moonlight view of Lisbon.—Illuminated windows -of the Palace.—The old Marquis of Penalva.—Padre -Duarte, a famous Jesuit.—Conversation between him and a -conceited Physician.—Their ludicrous blunders.—Toad-eaters.—Sonatas.—Portuguese -minuets.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>88</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVII-port">LETTER XVII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Dog-howlings.—Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.—Breakfast -at the Marquis of Penalvas.—Magnificent -and hospitable reception.—Whispering in the shade of -mysterious chambers.—The Bishop of Algarve.—Evening -scene in the garden of Marvilla.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>96</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVIII-port">LETTER XVIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Excursion to Cintra.—Villa of Ramalhaô.—The Garden.—Collares.—Pavilion -designed by Pillement.—A convulsive -gallop.—Cold weather in July.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>104</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIX-port">LETTER XIX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.—Palace of -Cintra.—Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.—Parterre on -the summit of a lofty terrace.—Place of confinement of -Alphonso the Sixth.—The Chapel.—Barbaric profusion -of Gold.—Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he -received a supernatural warning.—Rooms in preparation -for the Queen and the Infantas.—Return to Ramalhaô.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>110</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XX-port">LETTER XX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Grand gala at Court.—Festival in honour of the birthday -of Guildermeester.—Mad freaks of a Frenchman.—Unwelcome -lights of Truth.—Invective against the English.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>117</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXI-port">LETTER XXI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Queen of Portugal’s Chapel.—The Orchestra.—Rehearsal -of a Council.—Proposal to visit Mafra.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>123</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXII-port">LETTER XXII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Road to Mafra.—Distant view of the Convent.—Its vast -fronts.—General magnificence of the Edifice.—The -Church.—The High Altar.—Eve of the Festival of St. -Augustine.—The collateral Chapels.—The Sacristy.—The -Abbot of the Convent.—The Library.—View from -the Convent-roof.—Chime of Bells.—House of the Capitan -Mor.—Dinner.—Vespers.—Awful sound of the Organs.—The -Palace.—Return to the Convent.—Inquisitive crowd.—The -Garden.—Matins.—A Procession.—The Hall de -Profundis.—Solemn Repast.—Supper at the Capitan -Mor’s.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>127</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXIII-port">LETTER XXIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>High mass.—Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.—Leave -Mafra.—An accident.—Return to Cintra.—My saloon.—Beautiful -view from it.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>143</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXIV-port">LETTER XXIV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.—Amusing -stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.—Cheerful -funeral.—Refreshing ramble to the heights of -Penha Verde.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>147</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXV-port">LETTER XXV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.—Visit to Mrs. -Guildermeester.—Toads active, and toads passive.—The -old Consul and his tray of jewels.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>157</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXVI-port">LETTER XXVI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.—Duke -d’Alafoens.—Excursion to a rustic Fair.—Revels of -the Peasantry.—Night-scene at the Marialva Villa.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>163</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXVII-port">LETTER XXVII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.—Singular -invitation.—Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.—Hilarity -and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary -personage.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>169</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXVIII-port">LETTER XXVIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Explore the Cintra Mountains.—Convent of Nossa Senhora -da Penha.—Moorish Ruins.—The Cork Convent.—The -Rock of Lisbon.—Marine Scenery.—Susceptible imagination -of the Ancients exemplified.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>179</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXIX-port">LETTER XXIX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Excursion to Penha Verde.—Resemblance of that Villa -to the edifices in Caspar Poussin’s landscapes.—The ancient -pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de -Castro.—The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.—Influx -of visitors.—A celebrated Prior’s erudition and -strange anachronisms.—The Beast in the Apocalypse.—Œcolampadius.—Bevy -of Palace damsels.—Fête at the -Marialva Villa.—The Queen and the Royal Family.—A -favourite dwarf Negress.—Dignified manner of the -Queen.—Profound respect inspired by her presence.—Rigorous -etiquette.—Grand display of Fireworks.—The -young Countess of Lumieres.—Affecting resemblance.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>189</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXX-port">LETTER XXX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Cathedral of Lisbon.—Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.—The -Holy Crows.—Party formed to visit them.—A Portuguese -poet.—Comfortable establishment of the Holy -Crows.—Singular tradition connected with them.—Illuminations -in honour of the Infanta’s accouchement.—Public -harangues.—Policarpio’s singing, and anecdotes -of the <i>haute noblesse</i>.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>201</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXXI-port">LETTER XXXI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Rambles in the Valley of Collates.—Elysian scenery.—Song -of a young female peasant.—Rustic hospitality.—Interview -with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.—Conversation -with His Royal Highness.—Return to -Ramalhaô.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>212</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXXII-port">LETTER XXXII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Convent of Boa Morte.—Emaciated priests.—Austerity of -the Order.—Contrite personages.—A <i>nouveau riche</i>.—His -house.—Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.—Train -of attendants at dinner.—Portuguese gluttony.—Black -dose of legendary superstition.—Terrible denunciations.—A -dreary evening.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>229</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXXIII-port">LETTER XXXIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Rehearsal of Seguidillas.—Evening scene.—Crowds of -beggars.—Royal charity misplaced.—Mendicant flattery.—Frightful -countenances.—Performance at the Salitri theatre.—Countess -of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.—A -strange ballet.—Return to the Palace.—Supper at the Camareira -Mor’s.—Filial affection.—Last interview with the -Archbishop.—Fatal tide of events.—Heart-felt regret on -leaving Portugal.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>235</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XXXIV-port">LETTER XXXIV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.—Awful music by -Perez and Jomelli.—Marialva’s affecting address.—My -sorrow and anxiety.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>253</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">————</td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><big><a href="#SPAIN">SPAIN.</a></big></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_I-spn">LETTER I.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Embark on the Tagus.—Aldea Gallega.—A poetical postmaster.—The -church.—Leave Aldea Gallega.—Scenery on -the road.—Palace built by John the Fifth.—Ruins at Montemor.—Reach -Arroyolos.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>259</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_II-spn">LETTER II.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A wild tract of forest-land.—Arrival at Estremoz.—A fair.—An -outrageous sermon.—Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.—Elvas.—Our -reception there.—My visiters.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>268</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_III-spn">LETTER III.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.—A -muleteer’s enthusiasm.—Badajoz.—The cathedral.—Journey -resumed.—A vast plain.—Village of Lubaon.—Withered -hags.—Names and characters of our mules.—Posada at -Merida.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>275</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IV-spn">LETTER IV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Arrival at Miaxada.—Monotonous singing.—Dismal -country.—Truxillo.—A rainy morning.—Resume our journey.—Immense -wood of cork-trees.—Almaraz.—Reception by the -escrivano.—A terrific volume.—Village of Laval de Moral.—Range -of lofty mountains.—Calzada.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>282</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_V-spn">LETTER V.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Sierra de los Gregos.—Mass.—Oropeza.—Talavera.—Drawling -tirannas.—Talavera de la Reyna.—Reception at -Santa Olaya.—The lady of the house and her dogs and -dancers.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>289</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VI-spn">LETTER VI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Dismal plains.—Santa Cruz.—Val de Carneiro.—A most -determined musical amateur.—The Alcayde Mayor.—Approach -to Madrid.—Aspect of the city.—The Calle d’Alcala.—The -Prado.—The Ave-Maria bell.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>296</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VII-spn">LETTER VII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.—Her -apartment described.—Her passion for music.—Her señoros -de honor.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>301</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_VIII-spn">LETTER VIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Chevalier de Roxas.—Excursion to the palace and -gardens of the Buen Retiro.—The Turkish Ambassador and -his numerous train.—Farinelli’s apartments.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>305</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_IX-spn">LETTER IX.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>The Museum and Academy of Arts.—Scene on the Prado.—The -Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.—The -Theatre.—A highly popular dancer.—Seguidillas in all their -glory.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>310</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_X-spn">LETTER X.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Visit to the Escurial.—Imposing site of that regal convent.—Reception -by the Mystagogue of the place.—Magnificence -of the choir.—Charles the Fifth’s organ.—Crucifix -by Cellini.—Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.—Extent -and intricacy of the stupendous edifice.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>314</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XI-spn">LETTER XI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Mysterious cabinets.—Relics of Martyrs.—A feather from -the Archangel Gabriel’s wing.—Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.—Sepulchral -cave.—River of death.—The regal sarcophagi.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>323</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XII-spn">LETTER XII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.—Curious assemblage -in his long pompous gallery.—Deplorable ditty by an -eastern dilettante.—A bolero in the most rapturous style.—Boccharini -in despair.—Solecisms in dancing.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>329</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIII-spn">LETTER XIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Palace of Madrid.—Masterly productions of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.—The King’s sleeping -apartment.—Musical clocks.—Feathered favourites.—Picture -of the Madonna del Spasimo.—Interview with Don -Gabriel and the Infanta.—Her Royal Highness’s affecting -recollections of home.—Head-quarters of Masserano.—Exhibition -of national manners there.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>339</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XIV-spn">LETTER XIV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>A German Visionary.—Remarkable conversation with -him.—History of a Ghost-seer.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>349</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XV-spn">LETTER XV.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Madame Bendicho.—Unsuccessful search on the Prado.—Kauffman, -an infidel in the German style.—Mass in the -chapel of the Virgin.—The Duchess of Alba’s villa.—Destruction -by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.—French -ambassador’s ball.—Heir-apparent of the -house of Medina Celi.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>354</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVI-spn">LETTER XVI.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.—Stroll to the gardens -of the Buen Retiro.—Troop of ostriches.—Madame -d’Aranda.—State of Cortejo-ism.—Powers of drapery.—Madame -d’Aranda’s toilet.—Assembly at the house of Madame -Badaan.—Cortejos off duty.—Blaze of beauty.—A -curious group.—A dance.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>358</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVII-spn">LETTER XVII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Valley of Aranjuez.—The island garden.—The palace.—Strange -medley of pictures.—Oratories of the King and the -Queen.—Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco -by Mengs.—Boundless freedom of conduct in the present -reign.—Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna’s house.—Apathy -pervading the whole Iberian peninsula.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>365</p></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#LETTER_XVIII-spn">LETTER XVIII.</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p>Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.—Destructive -rage for improvement.—Loveliness of the valley -of Aranjuez.—Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.—Degeneration -of the race of grandees.—A royal cook.</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><p>376</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<h2><a name="PORTUGAL" id="PORTUGAL"></a>PORTUGAL.<a name="page_vol_2_2002" id="page_vol_2_2002"></a></h2> - -<p class="cb">PREFACE<br /><br /> -TO<br /><br /> -PORTUGUESE LETTERS.</p> - -<div class="notte"> -<p>Portugal attracting much attention in her present convulsed and -declining state, it might not perhaps be uninteresting to the public to -cast back a glance by way of contrast to the happier times when she -enjoyed, under the mild and beneficent reign of Donna Maria the First, a -great share of courtly and commercial prosperity.</p> - -<p>March 1, 1834.<a name="page_vol_2_2005" id="page_vol_2_2005"></a><a name="page_vol_2_2004" id="page_vol_2_2004"></a></p> -</div> - -<h2>PORTUGAL.</h2> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-port" id="LETTER_I-port"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Detained at Falmouth.—Navigation at a stop.—An evening ramble.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Falmouth, March 6, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> glass is sinking; the west wind gently breathing upon the water, the -smoke softly descending into the room, and sailors yawning dismally at -the door of every ale-house.</p> - -<p>Navigation seems at a full stop. The captains lounging about with their -hands in their pockets, and passengers idling at billiards. Dr. V—— -has scraped acquaintance with a quaker, and went last night to one of -their assemblies, where he kept jingling his fine Genevan watch-chains -to their sober and silent dismay.</p> - -<p>In the intervals of the mild showers with which we are blessed, I ramble -about some<a name="page_vol_2_2006" id="page_vol_2_2006"></a> fields already springing with fresh herbage, which slope -down to the harbour: the immediate environs of Falmouth are not -unpleasant upon better acquaintance. Just out of the town, in a -sheltered recess of the bay, lies a grove of tall elms, forming several -avenues carpeted with turf. In the central point rises a stone pyramid -about thirty feet high, well designed and constructed, but quite plain -without any inscription; between the stems of the trees one discovers a -low white house, built in and out in a very capricious manner, with -oriel windows and porches, shaded by bushes of prosperous bay. Several -rose-coloured cabbages, with leaves as crisped and curled as those of -the acanthus, decorate a little grass-plat, neatly swept, before the -door. Over the roof of this snug habitation I spied the skeleton of a -gothic mansion, so completely robed with thick ivy, as to appear like -one of those castles of clipped box I have often seen in a Dutch garden.</p> - -<p>Yesterday evening, the winds being still, and the sun gleaming warm for -a moment or two, I visited this spot to examine the ruin, hear birds -chirp, and scent wall-flowers.<a name="page_vol_2_2007" id="page_vol_2_2007"></a></p> - -<p>Two young girls, beautifully shaped, and dressed with a sort of romantic -provincial elegance, were walking up and down the grove by the pyramid. -There was something so love-lorn in their gestures, that I have no doubt -they were sighing out their souls to each other. As a decided amateur of -this sort of <i>confidential promenade</i>, I would have given my ears to -have heard their <i>confessions</i>.<a name="page_vol_2_2008" id="page_vol_2_2008"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-port" id="LETTER_II-port"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.—Piety and gin.—Rapid progress of -Methodism.—Freaks of fortune.—Pernicious -extravagance.—Minerals.—Mr. Beauchamp’s mansion.—Beautiful -lake.—The wind still contrary.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Falmouth, March 7, 1787.</p> - -<p>S<small>COTT</small> came this morning and took me to see the consolidated mines in the -parish of Gwynnap; they are situated in a bleak desert, rendered still -more doleful by the unhealthy appearance of its inhabitants. At every -step one stumbles upon ladders that lead into utter darkness, or funnels -that exhale warm copperous vapours. All around these openings the ore is -piled up in heaps waiting for purchasers. I saw it drawn reeking out of -the mine by the help of a machine called a whim, put in motion by mules, -which in their turn are stimulated by impish children hanging over the -poor brutes, and flogging them round without respite. This dismal scene -of <i>whims</i>, suffering mules, and<a name="page_vol_2_2009" id="page_vol_2_2009"></a> hillocks of cinders, extends for -miles. Huge iron engines creaking and groaning, invented by Watt, and -tall chimneys smoking and flaming, that seem to belong to old Nicholas’s -abode, diversify the prospect.</p> - -<p>Two strange-looking Cornish beings, dressed in ghostly white, conducted -me about, and very kindly proposed a descent into the bowels of the -earth, but I declined initiation. These mystagogues occupy a tolerable -house, with fair sash windows, where the inspectors of the mine hold -their meetings, and regale upon beef, pudding, and brandy.</p> - -<p>While I was standing at the door of this habitation, several woful -figures in tattered garments, with pickaxes on their shoulders, crawled -out of a dark fissure and repaired to a hovel, which I learnt was a -gin-shop. There they pass the few hours allotted them above ground, and -drink, it is to be hoped, an oblivion of their subterraneous existence. -Piety as well as gin helps to fill up their leisure moments, and I was -told that Wesley, who came apostolising into Cornwall a few years ago, -preached on this very spot to above seven thousand followers.<a name="page_vol_2_2010" id="page_vol_2_2010"></a></p> - -<p>Since this period Methodism has made a very rapid progress, and has been -of no trifling service in diverting the attention of these sons of -darkness from then present condition to the glories of the life to come. -However, some people inform me their actual state is not so much to be -lamented, and that, notwithstanding their pale looks and tattered -raiment, they are far from being poor or unhealthy. Fortune often throws -a considerable sum into their laps when they least expect it, and many a -common miner has been known to gain a hundred pounds in the space of a -month or two. Like sailors in the first effusion of prize-money, they -have no notion of turning their good-luck to advantage; but squander the -fruits of their toil in the silliest species of extravagance. Their -wives are dressed out in tawdry silks, and flaunt away in ale-houses -between rows of obedient fiddlers. The money spent, down they sink again -into damps and darkness.</p> - -<p>Having passed about an hour in collecting minerals, stopping engines -with my finger, and performing all the functions of a diligent young man -desirous of information, I turned<a name="page_vol_2_2011" id="page_vol_2_2011"></a> my back on smokes, flames, and -coal-holes, with great pleasure.</p> - -<p>Not above a mile-and-a-half from this black bustling scene, in a -sheltered valley, lies the mansion of Mr. Beauchamp, wrapped up in -shrubberies of laurel and laurustine. Copses of hazel and holly -terminate the prospect on almost every side, and in the midst of the -glen a broad clear stream reflects the impending vegetation. This -transparent water, after performing the part of a mirror before the -house, forms a succession of waterfalls which glitter between slopes of -the smoothest turf, sprinkled with daffodils: numerous flights of -widgeon and Muscovy ducks, were sprucing themselves on the edge of the -stream, and two grave swans seemed highly to approve of its woody -retired banks for the education of their progeny.</p> - -<p>Very glad was I to disport on its “margent green,” after crushing -cinders at every step all the morning; had not the sun hid himself, and -the air grown chill, I might have fooled away three or four hours with -the swans and the widgeons, and lost my dinner. Upon my return home, I -found the wind as contrary as ever, and all thoughts of sailing -abandoned.<a name="page_vol_2_2012" id="page_vol_2_2012"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_III-port" id="LETTER_III-port"></a>LETTER III.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A lovely morning.—Antiquated mansion.—Its lady.—Ancestral -effigies.—Collection of animals.—Serene evening.—Owls.—Expected -dreams.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Falmouth, March 8, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>HAT</small> a lovely morning! how glassy the sea, how busy the fishing-boats, -and how fast asleep the wind in its old quarter! Towards evening, -however, it freshened, and I took a toss in a boat with Mr. Trefusis, -whose territories extend half round the bay. His green hanging downs -spotted with sheep, and intersected by rocky gullies, shaded by tall -straight oaks and ashes, form a romantic prospect, very much in the -style of Mount Edgcumbe.</p> - -<p>We drank tea at the capital of these dominions, an antiquated mansion, -which is placed in a hollow on the summit of a lofty hill, and contains -many ruinous halls and never-ending passages: they cannot, however, be -said<a name="page_vol_2_2013" id="page_vol_2_2013"></a> to lead to nothing, like those celebrated by Gray in his Long -Story, for Mrs. Trefusis terminated the perspective. She is a native of -Lausanne, and was quite happy to see her countryman Verdeil.</p> - -<p>We should have very much enjoyed her conversation, but the moment tea -was over, the squire could not resist leading us round his improvements -in kennel, stable, and oxstall: though it was pitch-dark, and we were -obliged to be escorted by grooms and groomlings with candles and -lanterns; a very necessary precaution, as the winds blew not more -violently without the house than within.</p> - -<p>In the course of our peregrination through halls, pantries, and -antechambers, we passed a staircase with heavy walnut-railing, lined -from top to bottom with effigies of ancestors that looked quite -formidable by the horny glow of our lanterns; which illumination, dull -as it was, occasioned much alarm amongst a collection of animals, both -furred and feathered, the delight of Mr. Trefusis’s existence.</p> - -<p>Every corner of his house contains some strange and stinking inhabitant; -one can hardly move without stumbling over a basket of<a name="page_vol_2_2014" id="page_vol_2_2014"></a> puppies, or -rolling along a mealy tub, with ferrets in the bottom of it; rap went my -head against a wire cage, and behold a squirrel twirled out of its sleep -in sad confusion: a little further on, I was very near being the -destruction of some new-born dormice—their feeble squeak haunts my ears -at this moment!</p> - -<p>Beyond this nursery, a door opened and admitted us into a large saloon, -in the days of Mr. Trefusis’s father very splendidly decorated, but at -present exhibiting nothing, save damp plastered walls, mouldering -floors, and cracked windows. A well-known perfume issuing from this -apartment, proclaimed the neighbourhood of those fragrant animals, which -you perfectly recollect were the joy of my infancy, and presently three -or four couple of spanking yellow rabbits made their appearance. A -racoon poked his head out of a coop, whilst an owl lifted up the gloom -of his countenance, and gave us his malediction.</p> - -<p>My nose having lost all relish for <i>rabbitish</i> odours, took refuge in my -handkerchief; there did I keep it snug till it pleased our conductors to -light us through two or three closets, all of a flutter with Virginia -nightingales, goldfinches,<a name="page_vol_2_2015" id="page_vol_2_2015"></a> and canary-birds, into the stable. Several -game-cocks fell a crowing with most triumphant shrillness upon our -approach; and a monkey—the image of poor Brandoin—expanded his jaws in -so woful a manner, that I grew melancholy, and paid the hunters not half -the attention they merited.</p> - -<p>At length we got into the open air again, made our bows and departed. -The evening was become serene and pleasant, the moon beamed brilliantly -on the sea; but the owls, who are never to be pleased, hooted most -ruefully.</p> - -<p>Good night: I expect to dream of <i>closed-up doors</i>,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> and haunted -passages; rats, puppies, racoons, game-cocks, rabbits, and dormice.<a name="page_vol_2_2016" id="page_vol_2_2016"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IV-port" id="LETTER_IV-port"></a>LETTER IV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A blustering night.—Tedium of the language of the -compass.—Another excursion to Trefusis.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Falmouth, March 10, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>THOUGHT</small> last night our thin pasteboard habitation would have been -blown into the sea, for never in my life did I hear such dreadful -blusterings. Perhaps the winds are celebrating the approach of the -equinox, or some high festival in Æolus’s calendar, with which we poor -mortals are unacquainted. How tired I am of the language of the compass, -of wind shifting to this point and veering to the other; of gales -springing up, and breezes freshening; of rough seas, clear berths, ships -driving, and anchors lifting. Oh! that I was rooted like a tree, in some -sheltered corner of an inland valley, where I might never hear more of -saltwater or sailing.</p> - -<p>You cannot wonder at my becoming impatient,<a name="page_vol_2_2017" id="page_vol_2_2017"></a> after eleven days’ -captivity, nor at my wishing myself anywhere but where I am: I should -almost prefer a quarantine party at the new elegant Lazaretto off -Marseilles, to this smoky residence; at least, I might there learn some -curious particulars of the Levant, enjoy bright sunshine, and perfect -myself in Arabic. But what can a being of my turn do at Falmouth? I have -little taste for the explanation of fire-engines, Mr. Scott; the pursuit -of hares under the auspices of young Trefusis; or the gliding of -billiard-balls in the society of Barbadoes Creoles and packet-boat -captains. The Lord have mercy upon me! now, indeed, do I perform -penance.</p> - -<p>Our dinner yesterday went off tolerably well. We had <i>on</i> the table a -savoury pig, right worthy of Otaheite, and some of the finest poultry I -ever tasted; and <i>round</i> the table two or three brace of odd Cornish -gentlefolks, not deficient in humour and originality.</p> - -<p>About eight in the evening, six game-cocks were ushered into the -eating-room by two limber lads in scarlet jackets; and, after a flourish -of crowing, the noble birds set-to with surprising keenness. Tufts of -brilliant feathers<a name="page_vol_2_2018" id="page_vol_2_2018"></a> soon flew about the apartment; but the carpet was -not stained with the blood of the combatants: for, to do Trefusis -justice, he has a generous heart, and takes no pleasure in cruelty. The -cocks were unarmed, had their spurs cut short, and may live to fight -fifty such harmless battles.<a name="page_vol_2_2019" id="page_vol_2_2019"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_V-port" id="LETTER_V-port"></a>LETTER V.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">Regrets produced by Contrasts.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Falmouth, March 11, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>HAT</small> a fool was I to leave my beloved retirement at Evian! Instead of -viewing innumerable transparent rills falling over the amber-coloured -rocks of Melierie, I am chained down to contemplate an oozy beach, -deserted by the sea, and becrawled with worms tracking their way in the -slime that harbours them. Instead of the cheerful crackling of a -wood-fire in the old baron’s great hall, I hear the bellowing of winds -in narrow chimneys. You must allow the aromatic fragrance of fir-cones, -such heaps of which I used to burn in Savoy, is greatly preferable to -the exhalations of Welsh coal, and that to a person wrapped up in -musical devotion, high mass must be a good deal superior to the hummings -and hawings of a Quaker assembly. Colett swears<a name="page_vol_2_2020" id="page_vol_2_2020"></a> he had rather be -boarded at the Inquisition than remain at the mercy of the confounded -keeper of this hotel, the worst and the dearest in Christendom. We are -all tired to death, and know not what to do with ourselves.</p> - -<p>As I look upon ennui to be very catching, I shall break off before I -give you a share of it.<a name="page_vol_2_2021" id="page_vol_2_2021"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VI-port" id="LETTER_VI-port"></a>LETTER VI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Still no prospect of embarkation.—Pen-dennis Castle.—Luxuriant -vegetation.—A serene day.—Anticipations of the voyage.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Falmouth, March 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>N<small>O</small> prospect of launching this day upon the ocean. Every breeze is -subsided, and a profound calm established. I walk up and down the path -which leads to Pen-dennis Castle with folded arms, in a most listless -desponding mood. Vast brakes of furze, much stouter and loftier than any -with which I am acquainted, scent the air with the perfume of apricots. -Primroses, violets, and fresh herbs innumerable expand on every bank. -Larks, poised in the soft blue sky, warble delightfully. The sea, far -and wide, is covered with fishing-boats; and such a stillness prevails, -that I hear the voices of the fishermen.</p> - -<p>You will be rambling in sheltered alleys, whilst winds and currents -drive me furiously<a name="page_vol_2_2022" id="page_vol_2_2022"></a> along craggy shores, under the scowl of a -tempestuous sky. You will be angling for perch, whilst sharks are -whetting their teeth at me. Methinks I hear the voracious gluttons -disputing the first snap, and pointing upwards their cold slimy noses. -Out upon them! I have no desire to invade their element, or (using -poetical language) to plough those plains of waves which brings them -rich harvests of carcasses, and had much rather cling fast to the green -banks of Pen-dennis. I even prefer mining to sailing; and of the two, -had rather be swallowed up by the earth than the ocean.</p> - -<p>I wish some “swart fairy of the mine” would snatch me to her -concealments. Rather than pass a month in the qualms of sea-sickness, I -would consent to live three by candlelight, in the deepest den you could -discover, stuck close to a foul midnight hag as mouldy as a rotten -apple.</p> - -<p>This, you will tell me, is being very energetic in my aversions, that I -allow; but such, you know, is my trim, and I cannot help it.<a name="page_vol_2_2023" id="page_vol_2_2023"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VII-port" id="LETTER_VII-port"></a>LETTER VII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Portugal.—Excursion to Pagliavam.—The villa.—Dismal labyrinths -in the Dutch style.—Roses.—Anglo-Portuguese Master of the -Horse.—Interior of the Palace.—Furniture in petticoats.—Force of -education.—Royalty without power.—Return from the Palace.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">30th May, 1787.</p> - -<p>H<small>ORNE</small> persuaded me much against my will to accompany him in his -Portuguese chaise to Pagliavam, the residence of John the Fifth’s -bastards, instead of following my usual track along the sea-shore. The -roads to this stately garden are abominable, and more infested by -beggars, dogs, flies, and musquitoes, than any I am acquainted with. The -villa itself, which belongs to the Marquis of Lourical, is placed in a -hollow, and the tufted groves which surround it admit not a breath of -air; so I was half suffocated the moment I entered their shade.</p> - -<p>A great flat space before the garden-front<a name="page_vol_2_2024" id="page_vol_2_2024"></a> of the villa is laid out in -dismal labyrinths of clipped myrtle, with lofty pyramids rising from -them, in the style of that vile Dutch maze planted by King William at -Kensington, and rooted up some years ago by King George the Third. -Beyond this puzzling ground are several long alleys of stiff dark -verdure, called <i>ruas</i>, <i>i. e.</i> literally streets, with great propriety, -being more close, more formal, and not less dusty than High-Holborn. I -deviated from them into plats of well-watered vegetables and aromatic -herbs, enclosed by neat fences of cane, covered with an embroidery of -the freshest and most perfect roses, quite free from insects and -cankers, worthy to have strewn the couches and graced the bosom of Lais, -Aspasia, or Lady——. You know how warmly every mortal of taste delights -in these lovely flowers; how frequently, and in what harmonious numbers, -Ariosto has celebrated them. Has not Lady —— a whole apartment painted -over with roses? Does she not fill her bath with their leaves, and deck -her idols with garlands of no other flowers? and is she not quite in the -right of it?</p> - -<p>Whilst I was poetically engaged with the<a name="page_vol_2_2025" id="page_vol_2_2025"></a> roses, Horne entered into -conversation with a sort of Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse to -their bastard highnesses. He had a snug well-powdered wig, a bright -silver-hilted sword, a crimson full-dress suit, and a gently bulging -paunch. With one hand in his bosom and the other in the act of taking -snuff, he harangued emphatically upon the holiness, temperance, and -chastity of his august masters, who live sequestered from the world in -dingy silent state, abhor profane company, and never cast a look upon -females.</p> - -<p>Being curious to see the abode of these semi-royal sober personages, I -entered the palace. Not an insect stirred, not a whisper was audible. -The principal apartments consist in a suite of lofty-coved saloons, -nobly proportioned, and uniformly hung with damask of the deepest -crimson. The upper end of each room is doubly shaded by a ponderous -canopy of cut velvet. To the right and left appear rows of huge -elbow-chairs of the same materials. No glasses, no pictures, no gilding, -no decoration, but heavy drapery; even the tables are concealed by cut -velvet flounces, in the style of those with which our dowagers used<a name="page_vol_2_2026" id="page_vol_2_2026"></a> -formerly to array their toilets. The very sight of such close tables is -enough to make one perspire; and I cannot imagine what demon prompted -the Portuguese to invent such a fusty fashion.</p> - -<p>This taste for putting commodes and tables into petticoats is pretty -general here, at least in royal apartments. At Queluz, not a card or -dining-table has escaped; and many an old court-dress, I should suspect, -has been cut up to furnish these accoutrements, which are of all -colours, plain and flowered, pastorally sprigged or gorgeously -embroidered. Not so at Pagliavam. Crimson alone prevails, and casts its -royal gloom unrivalled on every object. Stuck fast to the wall, between -two of the aforementioned tables, are two fauteuils for their -highnesses; and opposite, a rank of chairs for those reverend fathers in -God who from time to time are honoured with admittance.</p> - -<p>How mighty is the force of Education!—What pains it must require on the -part of nurses, equerries, and chamberlains, to stifle every lively and -generous sensation in the princelings they educate,—to break a human -being into the habits of impotent royalty!<a name="page_vol_2_2027" id="page_vol_2_2027"></a> Dignity without command is -one of the heaviest of burthens. A sovereign may employ himself; he has -the choice of good or evil; but princes, like those of Pagliavam, -without power or influence, who have nothing to feed on but imaginary -greatness, must yawn their souls out, and become in process of time as -formal and inanimate as the pyramids of stunted myrtle in their gardens. -Happier were those babies King John did not think proper to recognize, -and they are not few in number, for that pious monarch,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i6">“Wide as his command,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">“Scattered his Maker’s image through the land.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>They, perhaps, whilst their brothers are gaping under rusty canopies, -tinkle their guitars in careless moonlight rambles, wriggle in gay -fandangos, or enjoy sound sleep, rural fare, and merriment, in the -character of jolly village curates.</p> - -<p>I was glad to get out of the palace; its stillness and gloom depressed -my spirits, and a confined atmosphere, impregnated with the smell of -burnt lavender, almost overcame me. I am just returned gasping for air. -No wonder; one might as well be in bed with a warming-pan as<a name="page_vol_2_2028" id="page_vol_2_2028"></a> in a -Portuguese cariole with the portly Horne, who carries a noble -protuberance, set off in this season with a satin waistcoat richly -spangled.</p> - -<p>I must go to Cintra, or I shall expire!<a name="page_vol_2_2029" id="page_vol_2_2029"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VIII-port" id="LETTER_VIII-port"></a>LETTER VIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Glare of the climate in Portugal.—Apish luxury.—Botanic -Gardens.—Açafatas.—Description of the Gardens and Terraces.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">May 31, 1787.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> is in vain I call upon clouds to cover me and fogs to wrap me up. You -can form no adequate idea of the continual glare of this renowned -climate. Lisbon is the place in the world best calculated to make one -cry out</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Hide me from day’s garish eye;”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">but where to hide is not so easy. Here are no thickets of pine as in the -classic Italian villas, none of those quivering poplars and leafy -chestnuts which cover the plains of Lombardy. The groves in the -immediate environs of this capital are composed of—with, alas! but few -exceptions—dwarfish orange-trees and cinder-coloured olives. Under -their branches repose neither shepherds nor shepherdesses, but -whitening<a name="page_vol_2_2030" id="page_vol_2_2030"></a> bones, scraps of leather, broken pantiles, and passengers not -unfrequently attended by monkeys, who, I have been told, are let out for -the purpose of picking up a livelihood. Those who cannot afford this -apish luxury, have their bushy poles untenanted by affectionate -relations, for yesterday just under my window I saw two blessed babies -rendering this good office to their aged parent.</p> - -<p>I had determined not to have stirred beyond the shade of my awning; -however, towards eve, the extreme fervour of the sun being a little -abated, old Horne (who has yet a colt’s-tooth) prevailed upon me to walk -in the Botanic Gardens, where not unfrequently are to be found certain -youthful animals of the female gender called Açafatas, in Portuguese; a -species between a bedchamber woman and a maid of honour. The Queen has -kindly taken the ugliest with her to the Caldas: those who remain have -large black eyes sparkling with the true spirit of adventure, an -exuberant flow of dark hair, and pouting lips of the colour and size of -full-blown roses.</p> - -<p>All this, you will tell me, does not compose a perfect beauty. I never -meant to convey such<a name="page_vol_2_2031" id="page_vol_2_2031"></a> a notion: I only wish you to understand that the -nymphs we have just quitted are the flowers of the Queen’s flock, and -that she has, at least, four or five dozen more in attendance upon her -sacred person, with larger mouths, smaller eyes, and swarthier -complexions.</p> - -<p>Not being in sufficient spirits to flourish away in Portuguese, my -conversation was chiefly addressed to a lovely blue-eyed Irish girl of -fifteen or sixteen, lately married to an officer of her Majesty’s -customs. Spouse goes a pilgrimaging to Nossa Senhora do Cabo—little -madam whisks about the Botanic Garden with the ladies of the palace and -a troop of sopranos, who teach her to warble and speak Italian. She is -well worth teaching everything in their power. Her hair of the loveliest -auburn, her straight Grecian eyebrows and fair complexion, form a -striking contrast to the gipsy-coloured skins and jetty tresses of her -companions. She looked like a visionary being skimming along the alleys, -and leaving the pot-bellied sopranos and dowdy Açafatas far behind, -wondering at her agility.</p> - -<p>The garden is pleasant enough, situated upon an eminence, planted with -light flowering<a name="page_vol_2_2032" id="page_vol_2_2032"></a> trees clustered with blossoms. Above their topmost -branches rises a broad majestic terrace, with marble balustrades of -shining whiteness and strange Oriental pattern. They design -indifferently in this country, but execute with great neatness and -precision. I never saw balustrades better hewn or chiseled than those -bordering the steps which lead up to the grand terrace. Its ample -surface is laid out in oblong compartments of marble, containing no very -great variety of heliotropes, aloes, geraniums, china-roses, and the -commonest plants of our green-houses. Such ponderous divisions have a -dismal effect; they reminded one of a place of interment, and it struck -me as if the deceased inhabitants of the adjoining palace were sprouting -up in the shape of prickly-pears, Indian-figs, gaudy holly-oaks, and -peppery capsicums.</p> - -<p>The terrace is about fifteen hundred paces in length. Three copious -fountains give it an air of coolness, much increased by the waving of -tall acacias, exposed by their lofty situation to every breeze which -blows from the entrance of the Tagus, whose lovely azure appears to -great advantage between the quivering foliage.<a name="page_vol_2_2033" id="page_vol_2_2033"></a></p> - -<p>The Irish girl and your faithful correspondent coursed each other like -children along the terrace, and when tired reposed under a group of -gigantic Brazilian aloes by one of the fountains. The swarthy party -detached its principal guardian, a gawky young priest, to observe all -the wanderings and riposos of us white people.</p> - -<p>It was late, and the sun had set several minutes before I took my -departure. Black eyes and blue eyes seem horridly jealous of each other. -I fear my youthful and lively companion will suffer for having more -alertness than the Açafatas: she will be pinched, if I am not mistaken, -as the party return through the dark and intricate passages which join -the palace of the Ajuda to the gardens. Sad thought, the leaving such a -fair little being in the hands of fiery, despotic females, so greatly -her inferiors in complexion and delicacy.</p> - -<p>They will take especial care, I warrant them, to fill the husband’s head -with suspicions less charitable than those inspired by Nossa Senhora do -Cabo.<a name="page_vol_2_2034" id="page_vol_2_2034"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IX-port" id="LETTER_IX-port"></a>LETTER IX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.—Pathetic Music.—Valley of -Alcantara.—Enormous Aqueduct.—Visit to the Marialva Palace.—Its -much revered Masters.—Collection of Rarities.—The Viceroy of -Algarve.—Polyglottery.—A Night-scene.—Modinhas.—Extraordinary -Procession.—Blessings of Patriarchal Government.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">3 June, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> went by special invitation to the royal Convent of the Necessidades, -belonging to the Oratorians, to see the ceremony of consecrating a -father of that order Bishop of Algarve, and were placed fronting the -altar in a gallery crowded with important personages in shining raiment, -the relations of the new prelate. The floor being spread with rich -Persian carpets and velvet cushions, it was pretty good kneeling; but, -notwithstanding this comfortable accommodation, I thought the ceremony -would never finish. There was a mighty glitter of crosses, censers, -mitres, and crosiers, continually in motion,<a name="page_vol_2_2035" id="page_vol_2_2035"></a> as several bishops -assisted in all their pomp.</p> - -<p>The music, which was extremely simple and pathetic, appeared to affect -the grandees in my neighbourhood very profoundly, for they put on woful -contrite countenances, thumped their breasts, and seemed to think -themselves, as most of them are, miserable sinners. Feeling oppressed by -the heat and the sermon, I made my retreat slyly and silently from the -splendid gallery, and passed through some narrow corridors, as warm as -flues, into the garden.</p> - -<p>But this was only exchanging one scene of formality and closeness for -another. I panted after air, and to obtain that blessing escaped through -a little narrow door into the wild free valley of Alcantara. Here all -was solitude and humming of bees, and fresh gales blowing from the -entrance of the Tagus over the tufted tops of orange gardens. The -refreshing sound of water-wheels seemed to give me new life.</p> - -<p>I set the sun at defiance, and advanced towards that part of the valley -across which stretches the enormous aqueduct you have heard so often -mentioned as the most colossal<a name="page_vol_2_2036" id="page_vol_2_2036"></a> edifice of its kind in Europe. It has -only one row of pointed openings, and the principal arch, which crosses -a rapid brook, measures above two hundred and fifty feet in height. The -Pont de Garde and Caserta have several rows of arches one above the -other, which, by dividing the attention, take off from the size of the -whole. There is a vastness in this single range that strikes with -astonishment. I sat down on a fragment of rock, under the great arch, -and looked up to the vaulted stone-work so high above me with a -sensation of awe not unallied to fear; as if the building I gazed upon -was the performance of some immeasurable being endued with gigantic -strength, who might perhaps take a fancy to saunter about his works this -morning, and, in mere awkwardness, crush me to atoms.</p> - -<p>Hard by the spot where I sat are several inclosures filled with canes, -eleven or twelve feet high: their fresh green leaves, agitated by the -feeblest wind, form a perpetual murmur. I am fond of this rustling, and -suffered myself to be lulled by it into a state of very necessary repose -after the fatigues of scrambling over crags and precipices.<a name="page_vol_2_2037" id="page_vol_2_2037"></a></p> - -<p>As soon as I returned from my walk, Horne took me to dine with him, and -afterwards to the Marialva Palace to pay the Grand Prior a visit. The -court-yard, filled with shabby two-wheeled chaises, put me in mind of -the entrance of a French post-house; a recollection not weakened by the -sight of several ample heaps of manure, between which we made the best -of our way up the great staircase, and had near tumbled over a swingeing -sow and her numerous progeny, which escaped from under our legs with -bitter squeakings.</p> - -<p>This hubbub announced our arrival, so out came the Grand Prior, his -nephew, the old Abade, and a troop of domestics. All great Portuguese -families are infested with herds of these, in general, ill-favoured -dependants; and none more than the Marialvas, who dole out every day -three hundred portions, at least, of rice and other eatables to as many -greedy devourers.</p> - -<p>The Grand Prior had shed his pontifical garments and did the honours of -the house, and conducted us with much agility all over the apartments, -and through the <i>manège</i>, where the old Marquis, his brother, though at -a very<a name="page_vol_2_2038" id="page_vol_2_2038"></a> advanced age, displays feats of the most consummate -horsemanship. He seems to have a decided taste for clocks, compasses, -and time-keepers. I counted no less than ten in his bedchamber; four or -five in full swing, making a loud hissing: they were chiming and -striking away (for it was exactly six) when I followed my conductor up -and down half-a-dozen staircases into a saloon hung with rusty damask.</p> - -<p>A table in the centre of this antiquated apartment was covered with -rarities brought forth for our inspection; curious shell-work, ivory -crucifixes, models of ships, housings embroidered with feathers, and the -Lord knows what besides, stinking of camphor enough to knock one down.</p> - -<p>Whilst we were staring with all our eyes and holding our handkerchiefs -to our noses, the Count of V——, Viceroy of Algarve, made his -appearance, in grand pea-green and pink and silver gala, straddling and -making wry faces as if some disagreeable accident had befallen him. He -was, however, in a most gracious mood, and received our eulogiums upon -his relation, the new bishop, with much complacency. Our conversation -was limpingly<a name="page_vol_2_2039" id="page_vol_2_2039"></a> carried on in a great variety of broken languages. -Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, French, and English, had each their turn -in rapid succession. The subject of all this polyglottery was the -glories and piety of John the Fifth, regret for the extinction of the -Jesuits, and the reverse for the death of Pombal, whose memory he holds -in something not distantly removed from execration. This flow of -eloquence was accompanied by the strangest, most buffoonical grimaces -and slobberings I ever beheld, for the Viceroy having a perennial -moistness of mouth, drivels at every syllable.</p> - -<p>One must not, however, decide too hastily upon outward appearances. This -slobbering, canting personage, is a distinguished statesman and good -officer, pre-eminent amongst the few who have seen service and given -proofs of prowess and capacity.</p> - -<p>To escape the long-winded narrations which were pouring warm into my -ear, I took refuge near a harpsichord, where Policarpio, one of the -first tenors in the Queen’s chapel, was singing and accompanying -himself. The curtains of the door of an adjoining dark apartment being -<a name="page_vol_2_2040" id="page_vol_2_2040"></a>half drawn, gave me a transient glimpse of Donna Henriquetta de L——, -Don Pedro’s sister, advancing one moment and retiring the next, eager to -approach and examine us exotic beings, but not venturing to enter the -saloon during her mother’s absence. She appeared to me a most -interesting girl, with eyes full of bewitching languor;—but of what do -I talk? I only saw her pale and evanescent, as one fancies one sees -objects in a dream. A group of lovely children (her sisters, I believe) -sat at her feet upon the ground, resembling genii partially concealed by -folds of drapery in some grand allegorical picture by Rubens or Paul -Veronese.</p> - -<p>Night approaching, lights glimmered on the turrets, terraces, and every -part of the strange huddle of buildings of which this morisco-looking -palace is composed; half the family were engaged in reciting the -litanies of saints, the other in freaks and frolics, perhaps of no very -edifying nature: the monotonous staccato of the guitar, accompanied by -the low soothing murmur of female voices singing modinhas, formed -altogether a strange though not unpleasant combination of sounds.</p> - -<p>I was listening to them with avidity, when a<a name="page_vol_2_2041" id="page_vol_2_2041"></a> glare of flambeaus, and -the noise of a splashing and dashing of water, called us out upon the -verandas, in time to witness a procession scarcely equalled since the -days of Noah. I doubt whether his ark contained a more heterogeneous -collection of animals than issued from a scalera with fifty oars, which -had just landed the old Marquis of M. and his son Don Josè, attended by -a swarm of musicians, poets, bullfighters, grooms, monks, dwarfs, and -children of both sexes, fantastically dressed.</p> - -<p>The whole party, it seems, were returned from a pilgrimage to some -saint’s nest or other on the opposite shore of the Tagus. First jumped -out a hump-backed dwarf, blowing a little squeaking trumpet three or -four inches long; then a pair of led captains, apparently commanded by a -strange, old, swaggering fellow in a showy uniform, who, I was told, had -acted the part of a sort of brigadier-general in some sort of an island. -Had it been Barataria, Sancho would soon have sent him about his -business, for, if we believe the scandalous chronicle of Lisbon, a more -impudent buffoon, parasite, and pilferer seldom existed.</p> - -<p>Close at his heels stalked a savage-looking<a name="page_vol_2_2042" id="page_vol_2_2042"></a> monk, as tall as Samson, -and two Capuchin friars, heavily laden, but with what sort of provision -I am ignorant; next came a very slim and sallow-faced apothecary, in -deep sables, completely answering in gait and costume the figure one -fancies to one’s self of Senhor Apuntador, in Gil Blas, followed by a -half-crazed improvisatore, spouting verses at us as he passed under the -balustrades against which we were leaning.</p> - -<p>He was hardly out of hearing before a confused rabble of watermen and -servants with bird-cages, lanterns, baskets of fruit, and chaplets of -flowers, came gamboling along to the great delight of a bevy of -children; who, to look more like the inhabitants of Heaven than even -Nature designed, had light fluttering wings attached to their -rose-coloured shoulders. Some of these little theatrical angels were -extremely beautiful, and had their hair most coquettishly arranged in -ringlets.</p> - -<p>The old Marquis is doatingly fond of them; night and day they remain -with him, imparting all the advantages that can possibly be derived from -fresh and innocent breath to a declining constitution. The patriarch of -the<a name="page_vol_2_2043" id="page_vol_2_2043"></a> Marialvas has followed this regimen many years, and also some -others which are scarcely credible. Having a more than Roman facility of -swallowing an immense profusion of dainties, and making room continually -for a fresh supply, he dines alone every day between two silver canteens -of extraordinary magnitude. Nobody in England would believe me if I -detailed the enormous repast I saw spread out for him; but let your -imagination loose upon all that was ever conceived in the way of -gormandizing, and it will not in this case exceed the reality.</p> - -<p>As soon as the contents, animal and vegetable, of the principal scalera, -and three or four other barges in its train, had been deposited in their -respective holes, corners, and roosting-places, I received an invitation -from the old Marquis to partake of a collation in his apartment. Not -less, I am certain, than fifty servants were in waiting, and exclusive -of half-a-dozen wax-torches, which were borne in state before us, above -a hundred tapers of different sizes were lighted up in the range of -rooms, intermingled with silver braziers and cassolettes diffusing a -very pleasant perfume.<a name="page_vol_2_2044" id="page_vol_2_2044"></a> I found the master of all this magnificence most -courteous, affable, and engaging. There is an urbanity and good-humour -in his looks, gestures, and tone of voice, that prepossesses -instantaneously in his favour, and justifies the universal popularity he -enjoys, and the affectionate name of Father, by which the Queen and -Royal Family often address him. All the favours of the crown have been -heaped upon him by the present and preceding sovereigns, a tide of -prosperity uninterrupted even during the grand vizariat of Pombal. “Act -as you judge wisest with the rest of my nobility,” used to say the King -Don Joseph to this redoubted minister; “but beware how you interfere -with the Marquis of Marialva.”</p> - -<p>In consequence of this decided predilection, the Marialva Palace became -in many cases a sort of rallying point, an asylum for the oppressed; and -its master, in more than one instance, a shield against the thunderbolts -of a too powerful minister. The recollections of these times seem still -to be kept alive; for the heart-felt respect, the filial adoration, I -saw paid the old Marquis, was indeed most remarkable; his slightest -glances were obeyed, and the person<a name="page_vol_2_2045" id="page_vol_2_2045"></a> on whom they fell seemed gratified -and animated; his sons, the Marquis of Tancos and Don Josè de Meneses, -never approached to offer him anything without bending the knee; and the -Conde de Villaverde, the heir of the great house of Anjeja, as well as -the Viceroy of Algarve, stood in the circle which was formed around him, -receiving a kind or gracious word with the same thankful earnestness as -courtiers who hang upon the smiles and favour of their sovereign. I -shall long remember the grateful sensations with which this scene of -reciprocal kindness filled me; it appeared an interchange of amiable -sentiments; beneficence diffused without guile or affectation, and -protection received without sullen or abject servility.</p> - -<p>How preferable is patriarchal government of this nature to the cold -theories pedantic sophists would establish, and which, should success -attend their selfish atheistical ravings, bid fair to undermine the best -and surest props of society! When parents cease to be honoured by their -children, and the feelings of grateful subordination in those of -helpless age or condition are unknown, kings will soon cease<a name="page_vol_2_2046" id="page_vol_2_2046"></a> to reign, -and republics to be governed by the councils of experience; anarchy, -rapine, and massacre will walk the earth, and the abode of dæmons be -transferred from hell to our unfortunate planet.<a name="page_vol_2_2047" id="page_vol_2_2047"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_X-port" id="LETTER_X-port"></a>LETTER X.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Festival of the Corpo de Deos.—Striking decoration of the -streets.—The Patriarchal Cathedral.—Coming forth of the Sacrament -in awful state.—Gorgeous Procession.—Bewildering confusion of -sounds.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">7th June.</p> - -<p>A <small>MOST</small> sonorous peal of bells, an alarming rattle of drums, and a -piercing flourish of trumpets, roused me at daybreak. You are too -piously disposed to be ignorant that this day is the festival of the -Corpo de Deos. I had half a mind to have stayed at home, turning over a -curious collection of Portuguese chronicles the Prior of Avis has just -sent to me; but I was told such wonders of the expected procession that -I could not refuse giving myself a little trouble in order to witness -them.</p> - -<p>Everybody was gone before I set out, and the streets of the suburb I -inhabit, as well as those in the city through which I passed in my way -to the patriarchal cathedral, were entirely<a name="page_vol_2_2048" id="page_vol_2_2048"></a> deserted. A pestilence -seemed to have swept the Great Square and the busy environs of the -Exchange and India House; for even vagrants, scavengers, and beggars, in -the last state of decrepitude, had all hobbled away to the scene of -action. A few miserable curs sniffing at offals alone remained in the -deserted streets, and I saw no human being at any of the windows, except -half-a-dozen scabby children blubbering at being kept at home.</p> - -<p>The murmur of the crowds, assembled round the <i>patriarchale</i>, reached us -a long while before we got into the midst of them, for we advanced with -difficulty between rows of soldiers drawn up in battle array. Upon -turning a dark angle, overshadowed by the high buildings of the seminary -adjoining the patriarchale, we discovered houses, shops, and palaces, -all metamorphosed into tents, and hung from top to bottom with red -damask, tapestry, satin coverlids, and fringed counterpanes glittering -with gold. I thought myself in the midst of the Mogul’s encampment, so -pompously described by Bernier.</p> - -<p>The front of the Great Church in particular was most magnificently -curtained; it rises from a vast flight of steps, which were covered -to-day<a name="page_vol_2_2049" id="page_vol_2_2049"></a> with the yeomen of the Queen’s guard in their rich -party-coloured velvet dresses, and a multitude of priests bearing a -gorgeous variety of painted and silken banners; flocks of sallow monks, -white, brown, and black, kept pouring in continually, like turkeys -driving to market.</p> - -<p>This part of the holy display lasting a tiresome while, I grew weary, -and left the balcony, where we were placed most advantageously, and got -into the church. High mass was performing with awful pomp, incense -ascending in clouds, and the light of innumerable tapers blazing on the -diamonds of the ostensory, just elevated by the patriarch with trembling -devout hands to receive the mysterious wafer.</p> - -<p>Before the close of the ceremony, I regained my window, to have a full -view of the coming forth of the Sacrament. All was expectation and -silence in the people. The guards had ranged them on each side of the -steps before the entrance of the church. At length a shower of aromatic -herbs and flowers announced the approach of the patriarch, bearing the -host under a regal canopy, surrounded by grandees, and preceded by a -long train of mitred figures, their hands joined in prayer, their -scarlet<a name="page_vol_2_2050" id="page_vol_2_2050"></a> and purple vestments sweeping the ground, their attendants -bearing croziers, crosses, and other insignia of pontifical grandeur.</p> - -<p>The procession slowly descending the flights of stairs to the sound of -choirs and the distant thunder of artillery, lost itself in a winding -street decorated with embroidered hangings, and left me with my senses -in a whirl, and my eyes dazzled, as if awakened from a vision of -celestial splendour.... My head swims at this moment, and my ears tingle -with a confusion of sounds, bells, voices, and the echoes of cannon, -prolonged by mountains and wafted over waters.<a name="page_vol_2_2051" id="page_vol_2_2051"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XI-port" id="LETTER_XI-port"></a>LETTER XI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S——.—His Brazilian -wife.—Magnificent repast.—A tragic damsel.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">11th June, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>O-DAY</small> we were engaged to dine in the country at a villa belonging to a -gentleman, whose volley of names, when pronounced with the true -Portuguese twang, sounds like an expectoration—Josè Street-Arriaga-Brum -da Silveira. Our hospitable host is of Irish extraction, boasts a -stature of six feet, proportionable breadth, a ruddy countenance, -herculean legs, and all the exterior attributes, at least, of that -enterprising race, who often have the luck of marrying great fortunes. -About a year or two ago he bore off a wealthy Brazilian heiress, and is -now master of a large estate and a fubsical, squat wife, with a head not -unlike that of Holofernes in old tapestry, and shoulders that act the -part of<a name="page_vol_2_2052" id="page_vol_2_2052"></a> a platter with rather too much exactitude. Poor soul! to be -sure, she is neither a Venus nor a Hebe, has a rough lip, and a manly -voice, and I fear is somewhat inclined to be dropsical; but her smiles -are frequent and fondling, and she cleaves to her husband with great -perseverance.</p> - -<p>He is an odd character, will accept of no employment, civil or military, -and affects a bullying frankness, that I should think must displease -very much in this country, where independence either in fortune or -sentiment is a crime seldom if ever tolerated.</p> - -<p>Mr. S—— likes a display, and the repast he gave us was magnificent; -sixty dishes at least, eight smoking roasts, and every ragout, French, -English, and Portuguese, that could be thought of. The dessert appeared -like the model of a fortification. The principal cake-tower measured, I -dare say, three feet perpendicular in height. The company was not equal -either in number or consequence to the splendour of the entertainment.</p> - -<p>Had not Miss Sill and Bezerra been luckily in my neighbourhood, I should -have perished with <i>ennui</i>. One stately damsel, with portentous<a name="page_vol_2_2053" id="page_vol_2_2053"></a> -eyebrows, and looks that reproached the male part of the assembly with -inattention, was the only lady of the palace Mr. S—— had invited.</p> - -<p>I expected to have met the whole troop of my Botanic Garden -acquaintance, and to have escorted them about the vineyards and -citron-orchards which surround this villa; but, alas! I was not destined -to any such amusing excursion. The tragic damsel, who I am told has been -unhappy in her tender attachments, took my arm, and never quitted it -during a long walk through Mr. S——’s ample possessions. We conversed -in Italian, and paid the birds that were singing, and the rills that -were murmuring, many fine compliments in a sort of prose run mad, -borrowed from operas and serenatas, the Aminto of Tasso, and the Adone -of Marini.</p> - -<p>The sun was just diffusing his last rays over the distant rocks of -Cintra, the air balsamic, and the paths amongst the vines springing with -fresh herbage and a thousand flowers revived by last night’s rain. -Giving up the narrow tract which leads through these rural regions to -the signora, I stalked by her side in a furrow well garnished with -nettles, acanthus,<a name="page_vol_2_2054" id="page_vol_2_2054"></a> and dwarf aloes, stinging and scratching myself at -every step. This penance, and the disappointment I was feeling most -acutely, put me not a little out of humour; I regretted so delicious an -evening should pass away in such forlorn company, and lacerating my legs -to so little purpose. How should I have enjoyed rambling with the young -Irish girl about these pleasant clover paths, between festoons of -luxuriant leaves and tendrils, not fastened to stiff poles and stumpy -stakes as in France and Switzerland, but climbing up light canes eight -or ten feet in height!</p> - -<p>Pinioned as I was, you may imagine I felt no inclination to prolong a -walk which already had been prolonged unconscionably. I escaped tea and -playing at voltarete, made a solemn bow to the solemn damsel, and got -home before it was quite dark.<a name="page_vol_2_2055" id="page_vol_2_2055"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XII-port" id="LETTER_XII-port"></a>LETTER XII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Pass the day at Belem.—Visit the neighbouring -Monastery.—Habitation of King Emanuel.—A gold Custodium of -exquisite workmanship.—The Church.—Bonfires on the edge of the -Tagus.—Fire-works.—Images of the Holy One of Lisbon.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">June 12th, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> passed the day quite <i>en famille</i> at Belem with a whole legion of -Marialvas. Some reverend fathers, of I know not what community, had sent -them immense messes of soup, very thick, slab, and oily; a portion -which, it seems, the faithful are accustomed to swallow on the eve of -St. Anthony’s festival.</p> - -<p>As soon as I decently could, after a collation which was served under an -awning stretched over one of the terraces, I stole out of the circle of -lords, ladies, dwarfs, monks, buffoons, bullies, and almoners, to visit -the neighbouring monastery. I ascended the great stairs, constructed at -the expense of the Infanta Catherine, King<a name="page_vol_2_2056" id="page_vol_2_2056"></a> Charles the Second’s -dowager, and after walking in the cloisters of Emanuel, looked into the -library, which is far from being in the cleanest or best ordered -condition. The spacious and lofty cloisters present a striking spread of -arches, which, though not in the purest style, attract the eye by their -delicately-carved arabesque ornament, and the warm reddish hue of the -marble. The corridor, into which open an almost endless range of cells, -is full five hundred feet in length. Each window has a commodious -resting-place, where the monks loll at their ease and enjoy the view of -the river.</p> - -<p>In a little dark treasury communicating by winding-stairs with that part -of the edifice tradition points out as the habitation of King Emanuel, -when at certain holy seasons he retired within these precincts, I was -shown by candlelight some extremely curious plate, particularly a -custodium, made in the year 1506, of the pure gold of Quiloa. Nothing -can be more beautiful as a specimen of elaborate gothic sculpture, than -this complicated enamelled mass of flying buttresses and fretted -pinnacles, with the twelve Apostles in their<a name="page_vol_2_2057" id="page_vol_2_2057"></a> niches, under canopies -formed of ten thousand wreaths and ramifications.</p> - -<p>From this gloomy recess, I was conducted to the church, one of the -largest in Portugal, vast, solemn, and fantastic, like the interior of -the Temple of Jerusalem, as I have seen it figured in some old German -Bibles. There was little, however, in the altars or monuments worth any -very minute investigation.</p> - -<p>It fell dark before I went out at the great porch, and found the wide -space before it beginning to catch a vivid gleam from a line of bonfires -on the edge of the Tagus. I could hardly reach my carriage without being -singed by squibs and crackers, and wished myself out the moment I got -into it, a rocket having shot up just under the noses of my mules and -scared them terribly.</p> - -<p>Unless St. Anthony lulls me asleep by a miracle, I must expect no rest -to-night, there is such a whizzing of fireworks, blazing of bonfires and -flourishing of French horns in honour of to-morrow, the five hundred and -fifty-fifth anniversary of that memorable day, when the Holy One of -Lisbon<a name="page_vol_2_2058" id="page_vol_2_2058"></a> passed by a soft transition to the joys of Paradise. I saw his -image at the door of almost every house and even hovel of this populous -capital, placed on an altar, and decked with a profusion of wax-lights -and flowers.<a name="page_vol_2_2059" id="page_vol_2_2059"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIII-port" id="LETTER_XIII-port"></a>LETTER XIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The New Church of St. Anthony.—Sprightly Music.—Enthusiastic -Sermon.—The good Prior of Avis.—Visit to the Carthusian Convent -of Cachiez.—Spectres of the Order.—Striking effigy of the -Saviour.—A young and melancholy Carthusian.—The Cemetery.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">June 13th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>SLEPT</small> better than I expected: the Saint was propitious, and during the -night cooled the ardour of his votaries and the flames of their bonfires -by a vernal shower, which pattered agreeably this morning amongst the -vineleaves of my garden. The clouds dispersed about eight o’clock, and -at nine, just as I ascended the steps of the new church built over the -identical house where St. Anthony was born, the sun shone out in all its -splendour.</p> - -<p>I cannot say this edifice recalled to my mind the magnificent sanctuary -of Padua, which five years ago on this very day impressed my imagination -so forcibly. Here are no constellations<a name="page_vol_2_2060" id="page_vol_2_2060"></a> of golden lamps depending by -glittering chains from a mysterious vaulted ceiling, no arcades of -alabaster, no sculptured marbles. The church is supported by two rows of -pillars neatly carved in stone, but wretchedly proportioned. Over the -high altar, where stands the revered image in the midst of a bright -illumination, was stretched a canopy of flowered velvet. This drapery, -richly fringed and tasseled, marks out the spot formerly occupied by the -chamber of the saint, and receives an amber-light from a row of tall -casement windows, the woodwork gleaming with burnished gold.</p> - -<p>A great many broad English faces burst forth from amongst the crowd of -profane vulgar at the portal of the church, and all their eyes were -directed to their enthusiastic countryman, but he was not to be stared -out of a decent countenance.</p> - -<p>The ceremony was extremely pompous. A prelate of the first rank, with a -considerable detachment of priests from the royal chapel, officiated to -the sounds of lively jigs and ranting minuets, better calculated to set -a parcel of water-drinkers a dancing in a pump-room, than<a name="page_vol_2_2061" id="page_vol_2_2061"></a> to direct the -movements of a pontiff and his assistants.</p> - -<p>After much indifferent music, vocal and instrumental, performed full -gallop in the most rapid allegro, Frè Joaô Jacinto, a famous preacher, -mounted the pulpit, lifted up hands and eyes, and poured forth a torrent -of sounding phrases in honour of St. Anthony. What would I not give for -such a voice?—it would almost have reached from Dan unto Beersheba!</p> - -<p>The Father has undoubtedly great powers of elocution, and none of that -canting, nasal whine so common in the delivery of monkish sermons. He -treated kings, tetrarchs, and conquerors, the heroes and sages of -antiquity, with ineffable contempt; reduced their palaces and -fortifications to dust, their armies to pismires, their imperial -vestments to cobwebs, and impressed all his audience, except the -heretical squinters at the door, with the most thorough conviction of -St. Anthony’s superiority over these objects of an erring and impious -admiration.</p> - -<p>“Happy,” exclaimed the preacher, “were those gothic ages, falsely called -ages of barbarism and ignorance, when the hearts of men,<a name="page_vol_2_2062" id="page_vol_2_2062"></a> uncorrupted by -the delusive beverage of philosophy, were open to the words of truth -falling like honey from the mouths of saints and confessors, such words -as distilled from the lips of Anthony, yet a suckling hanging at the -breast in this very spot. It was here the spirit of the Most High -descended upon him, here that he conceived the sublime intention of -penetrating into the most turbulent parts of Europe, setting the -inclemency of seasons and the malice of men at defiance, and sprinkling -amongst lawless nations the seeds of grace and repentance. There, my -brethren, is the door out of which he issued. Do you not see him in the -habit of a Menino de Coro, smiling with all the graces of innocence, and -dispensing with his infant hands to a group of squalid children the -portion of nourishment he has just received from his mother?</p> - -<p>“But Anthony, from the first dawn of his existence, lived for others, -and not for himself: he forewent even the luxury of meditation, and -instead of retiring into a peaceful cell, rushed into the world, -helpless and unprotected, lifting high the banner of the Cross amidst -perils and uproar, appeasing wars, settling differences both<a name="page_vol_2_2063" id="page_vol_2_2063"></a> public and -domestic, exhorting at the risk of his life ruffians and plunderers to -make restitution, and armed misers, guarding their coffers with bloody -swords, to open their hearts and their hands to the distresses of the -widow and the fatherless.</p> - -<p>“Anthony ever sighed after the crown of martyrdom, and had long -entertained an ardent desire of passing over into Morocco, and exposing -himself to the fury of its bigoted and cruel sovereign; but the commands -of his superior retain him on the point of embarkation; he makes a -sacrifice of even this most laudable and glorious ambition; he traverses -Spain, repairs to Assisi, embraces the rigid order of the great St. -Francis, and continues to his last hour administering consolation to the -dejected, fortifying their hopes of heaven, and confirming the faith of -such as were wavering or deluded by a succession of prodigies. The dead -are raised, the sick are healed, the sea is calmed by a glance of St -Anthony; even the lowest ranks of the creation are attracted by -eloquence more than human, and give marks of sensibility. Fish swim in -shoals to hear the word of the Lord; and to convince the obdurate and<a name="page_vol_2_2064" id="page_vol_2_2064"></a> -those accursed whose hearts the false reasoning of the world had -hardened, mules and animals the most perversely obstinate humble -themselves to the earth when Anthony holds forth the Sacrament, and -acknowledge the presence of the Divinity.”</p> - -<p>The sermon ended, fiddling began anew with redoubled vigour, and I, -disgusted with such unseasonable levity, retired home in dudgeon. This -little cloud of peevishness was soon dissipated by the cheering presence -of the good Prior of Avis, than whom there exists not, perhaps, in this -world a more benign, evangelical character; one who gives glory to God -with less ostentation, or bears a more unaffected goodwill towards men. -This excellent prelate had been passing his morning, not in attending -pompous ceremonies, but in consoling the sick and relieving the -indigent; climbing up to their miserable chambers to afford assistance -in the name of the saint whose festival was celebrating, and whose fame, -for every charitable beneficent act, had been handed down by the -inhabitants of Lisbon from father to child, through a long series of -generations.</p> - -<p>Our discourse was not of a nature to incline<a name="page_vol_2_2065" id="page_vol_2_2065"></a> me to relish pomps and -vanities. I waved seeing the procession which was expected to pass -through the principal streets of the city, and, accompanied by my -reverend friend, enjoyed the serenity of the evening on the shore of -Belem. We stopped as we passed by the Marialva palace, and took up Don -Pedro and his nursing father, the old Abade, who proposed a visit to the -Carthusian convent of Cachiez.</p> - -<p>In about half an hour we were set down before the church, which fronts -the royal gardens, and were ushered into a solemn, silent quadrangle. -Several spectres of the order were gliding about the cloisters, which -branch off from this court. In the middle is a marble fountain, shaded -by pyramids of clipped box; around are seven or eight small chapels; one -of which contains a coloured image of the Saviour in the last dreadful -agonies of his passion, covered with livid bruises and corrupted gore.</p> - -<p>Whilst we were examining this too faithful effigy, some of the monks, by -leave of their superior, gathered around us; one of them, a tall -interesting figure, attracted my attention by the deep melancholy which -sat upon his<a name="page_vol_2_2066" id="page_vol_2_2066"></a> features. Upon inquiry, I learned he was only -two-and-twenty years of age, of illustrious parentage, and lively -talents; but the immediate cause of his having sought these mansions of -stillness and mortification, the Grand Prior seemed loth to communicate.</p> - -<p>I could not help observing, as this young victim stood before me, and I -contemplated the evening light thrown on the arcades of the quadrangle, -how many setting suns he was likely to behold wasting their gleams upon -these walls, and what a wearisome succession of years he had in all -probability devoted himself to consume within their precincts. The eyes -of the good prior filled with tears, Verdeil shuddered, and the Abade, -forgetting the superstitious part he generally acts in religious places, -exclaimed loudly against the toleration of human sacrifices, and the -folly of permitting those to renounce the world, whose youth -incapacitates them from making a due estimate of its sorrows or -advantages. As for Don Pedro, his serious disposition received -additional gloom from the objects with which we were environed.</p> - -<p>The chill gust that blew from an arched<a name="page_vol_2_2067" id="page_vol_2_2067"></a> hall where the fathers are -interred, and whose pavement returned a hollow sound as we walked over -it, struck him with horror. It was the first time of his entering a -Carthusian convent, and, to my surprise, he appeared ignorant of the -severities of the order.</p> - -<p>The sun set before we regained our carriage, and our conversation the -whole way home partook of the impression which the scenery we had been -contemplating inspired.<a name="page_vol_2_2068" id="page_vol_2_2068"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIV-port" id="LETTER_XIV-port"></a>LETTER XIV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Curious succession of visiters.—A Seraphic Doctor.—Monsenhor -Aguilar.—Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.—Visit to the -Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.—The Archbishop -Confessor.—Brazilian Modinhas.—Bewitching nature of that -music.—Nocturnal processions.—Enthusiasm of the young Conde de -Villanova.—No accounting for fancies.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">14th June, 1787.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was my lot this afternoon to receive a curious succession of -visitors. First came Pombal, who looked worn down with gay living and -late hours; but there is an ease and fashion in his address not common -in this country. Though he possesses one of the largest landed estates -in the kingdom, (about one hundred and twenty thousand crowns a-year,) -he wished me to understand that his dread father, the scourge and terror -of the noblest houses in Portugal, the sole dispenser during so many -years of the royal treasure, died, notwithstanding, in distressed -circumstances, loaded with<a name="page_vol_2_2069" id="page_vol_2_2069"></a> debts contracted in supporting the dignity -of his post.</p> - -<p>The next who did me the honour of a visit was the Judge Conservator of -the English factory, Joaô Telles, a relation, legitimate or illegitimate -(I know not exactly which), of the Penalvas. This man, who has risen to -one of the highest posts of the law by the sole strength of his -abilities, has a nervous, original style of expression, which put me in -mind of Lord Thurlow; but to all this vigour of character and diction, -he joins the pliability and subtleness of a serpent; and those he cannot -take by storm, he is sure of overcoming by every soothing art of -flattery and insinuation.</p> - -<p>As soon as he was departed, entered a pair of monks with a basket of -sweetmeats in cut paper, from a good lady abbess, beseeching me to -portion out two sweet virgins as God’s spouses in some neighbouring -monastery.</p> - -<p>They were scarcely dismissed, before Father Theodore d’Almeida and -another of his brethren were ushered in. The whites of their eyes alone -were visible, nor could Whitfield himself, the original Doctor Squintum -of Foote, have squinted more scientifically.<a name="page_vol_2_2070" id="page_vol_2_2070"></a></p> - -<p>I was all attention to Father Theodore’s seraphic discourse; so -excellent an opportunity of hearing a first-rate specimen of -hypocritical cant was not to be neglected. No sooner had the fathers -been conducted to the stairshead with due ceremony, than Monsenhor -Aguilar, one of the prelates of the Patriarchal Cathedral, was -announced. He confirmed me in the opinion I entertained of Father -Theodore. No person can accuse Aguilar of being a hypocrite. He lays -himself but too much open, and treats the church from which he derives a -handsome maintenance, not as a patroness, but as an humble companion; -the constant butt and object of his sarcasms. In Portugal, even in the -year 1787, such conduct is madness, and I fear will expose him one day -or other to severe persecution.</p> - -<p>We were roused from a peaceful dish of tea by a loud hubbub in the -street, and running to the balcony, found a beastly mob of old hags, -children, and ragamuffins assembled, headed by half-a-dozen drummers, -and as many negroes in scarlet jackets, blowing French-horns with -unusual vehemence, and pointing them directly at the house. I was -wondering at this<a name="page_vol_2_2071" id="page_vol_2_2071"></a> Jericho fashion of besieging one’s door, and drawing -back to avoid being singed by a rocket which whizzed along within an -inch of my nose, when one of the servants entered with a crucifix on a -silver salver, and a mighty kind message from the nuns of the Convent of -the Sacrament, who had sent their musicians with trimbrels and -fireworks, to invite us to some grand doings at their convent, in honour -of the Festival of the Heart of Jesus. Really, these church parties -begin to lose in my eyes great part of the charm which novelty gave -them. I have had pretty nearly my fill of motets, and Kyrie eleisons, -and incense, and sweetmeats, and sermons.</p> - -<p>That heretic Verdeil, who would almost as soon be in hell at once as in -such a cloying heaven, would not let me rest till I went with him to the -theatre in the Rua d’os Condes, in order to dissipate by a little -profane air the fumes of so much holiness. The play afforded me more -disgust than amusement; the theatre is low and narrow, and the actors, -for there are no actresses, below criticism. Her Majesty’s absolute -commands having swept females off the stage, their parts are acted by -calvish<a name="page_vol_2_2072" id="page_vol_2_2072"></a> young fellows. Judge what a pleasing effect this metamorphosis -must produce, especially in the dancers, where one sees a stout -shepherdess in virgin white, with a soft blue beard, and a prominent -collar-bone, clenching a nosegay in a fist that would almost have -knocked down Goliah, and a train of milk-maids attending her enormous -foot-steps, tossing their petticoats over their heads at every step. -Such sprawling, jerking, and ogling I never saw before, and hope never -to see again.</p> - -<p>We were heartily sick of the performance before it was half finished, -and the night being serene and pleasant, were tempted to take a ramble -in the Great Square, which received a faint gleam from the lights in the -apartments of the palace, every window being thrown open to catch the -breeze. The Archbishop Confessor displayed his goodly person at one of -the balconies; from a clown, this now most important personage became a -common soldier, from a common soldier a corporal, from a corporal a -monk, in which station he gave so many proofs of toleration and -good-humour, that Pombal, who happened to stumble upon him by one of -those chances which set all calculation<a name="page_vol_2_2073" id="page_vol_2_2073"></a> at defiance, judged him -sufficiently shrewd, jovial, and ignorant, to make a very harmless and -comfortable confessor to her Majesty, then Princess of Brazil: since her -accession to the throne, he is become Archbishop, <i>in partibus</i>, Grand -Inquisitor, and the first spring in the present Government of Portugal. -I never saw a sturdier fellow. He seems to anoint himself with the oil -of gladness, to laugh and grow fat in spite of the critical situation of -affairs in this kingdom, and the just fears all its true patriots -entertain of seeing it once more relapse into a Spanish province.</p> - -<p>At a window immediately over his right reverence’s shining forehead, we -spied out the Lacerdas, two handsome sisters, maids of honour to the -Queen, waving their hands to us very invitingly. This was encouragement -enough for us to run up a vast many flights of stairs to their -apartment, which was crowded with nephews and nieces and cousins -clustering round two very elegant young women, who, accompanied by their -singing-master, a little square friar, with greenish eyes, were warbling -Brazilian modinhas.<a name="page_vol_2_2074" id="page_vol_2_2074"></a></p> - -<p>Those who have never heard this original sort of music, must and will -remain ignorant of the most bewitching melodies that ever existed since -the days of the Sybarites. They consist of languid interrupted measures, -as if the breath was gone with excess of rapture, and the soul panting -to meet the kindred soul of some beloved object. With a childish -carelessness they steal into the heart, before it has time to arm itself -against their enervating influence; you fancy you are swallowing milk, -and are admitting the poison of voluptuousness into the closest recesses -of your existence. At least, such beings as feel the power of harmonious -sounds are doing so; I won’t answer for hard-eared, phlegmatic northern -animals.</p> - -<p>An hour or two passed away almost imperceptibly in the pleasing delirium -these syren notes inspired, and it was not without regret I saw the -company disperse and the spell dissolve. The ladies of the apartment -having received a summons to attend her Majesty’s supper, curtsied us -off very gracefully, and vanished.</p> - -<p>In our way home we met the Sacrament, enveloped in a glare of light, -marching in state<a name="page_vol_2_2075" id="page_vol_2_2075"></a> to pay some sick person a farewell visit; and that -hopeful young nobleman, the Conde de Villa Nova,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> preceding the -canopy in a scarlet mantle, and tinkling a silver bell. He is always in -close attendance upon the Host, and passes the flower of his days in -this singular species of danglement. No lover was ever more jealous of -his mistress than this ingenuous youth of his bell. He cannot endure any -other person should give it vibration. The parish officers of the -extensive and populous district in which his palace is situated, from -respect to his birth and opulence, indulge him in this caprice, and -indeed a more perseverant bell-bearer they could not have chosen. At all -hours and in all weathers he is ready to perform this holy office. In -the dead of the night, or in the most intense heat of the day, out he -issues and down he dives, or up he climbs, to any dungeon or garret -where spiritual assistance of this nature is demanded.</p> - -<p>It has been again and again observed, that there is no accounting for -fancies. Every person has his own, which he follows to the best of his -means and abilities. The old Marialva<a name="page_vol_2_2076" id="page_vol_2_2076"></a>’s delights are centered between -his two silver recipiendaries; the Marquis his son in dancing attendance -with the Queen; and Villa Nova, in announcing with his bell to all true -believers the approach of celestial majesty. The present rage of the -scribbler of all these extravagances is modinhas, and under its -prevalence he feels half-tempted to set sail for the Brazils, the native -land of these enchanting compositions, to live in tents, such as the -Chevalier de Parny describes in his agreeable little voyage, and swing -in hammocks, or glide over smooth mats surrounded by bands of youthful -minstrels, diffusing at every step the perfume of jasmine and roses.<a name="page_vol_2_2077" id="page_vol_2_2077"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XV-port" id="LETTER_XV-port"></a>LETTER XV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.—Night sounds of the city.—Public -gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.—Visit to the Anjeja -Palace.—The heir of the family.—Marvellous narrations of a young -priest.—Convent of Savoyard nuns.—Father Theodore’s -chickens.—Sequestered group of beauties.—Singing of the Scarlati.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">29th June, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> bright sunshine which has lately been our portion, glorious as it -is, begins to tire me. Twenty times a day I cannot help wishing myself -extended at full-length upon the fresh herbage of some shady English -valley, where fairies gambol in the twilights of Midsummer, whispering -in the ears of their sleeping favourites the good or evil fortunes which -await them. It is too hot for these oracular little elvish beings in -Portugal, one must not here expect their inspirations; but would to -Heaven some revelation of this or any other nature had warned me off in -time, from the<a name="page_vol_2_2078" id="page_vol_2_2078"></a> blinding dust and excessive sultriness of Lisbon and its -neighbourhood. How silly, when one is well and cool, to gad abroad, in -the vain hope of making what is really best, better. Depend upon it, -there is more vernal delight and joy in our green hills and copses, than -in all these stunted olive fields and sun-burnt promontories.</p> - -<p>We have a homely saying, that what is poison to one man is meat to -another, and true enough; for these days and nights of glowing -temperature, which oppress me beyond endurance, are the delight and -boast of the inhabitants of this capital. The heat seems not only to -have new venomed the stings of the fleas and the musquitoes, but to have -drawn out, the whole night long, all the human ephemera of Lisbon. They -frisk, and dance, and tinkle their guitars from sunset to sunrise. The -dogs, too, keep yelping and howling without intermission; and what with -the bellowing of litanies by parochial processions, the whizzing of -fireworks, which devotees are perpetually letting off in honour of some -member or other of the celestial hierarchy, and the squabbles of -bullying rake-hells, who scour the<a name="page_vol_2_2079" id="page_vol_2_2079"></a> streets in search of adventures, -there is no getting a wink of sleep, even if the heat would allow it.</p> - -<p>As to those quiet nocturnal parties, where ingenuous youths rest their -heads, not on the lap of earth, but on that of their mistresses, who are -soothingly employed in delivering the jetty locks of their lovers from -too abundant a population, I have nothing to say against them, nor am I -much disturbed by the dashing sound of a few downfalls<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> from the -windows; but these dog-howlings exceed every annoyance of the kind I -ever endured, and give no slight foretaste of the infernal regions.</p> - -<p>Nothing but amusement and racket being thought of here at this season -(when to celebrate St. Peter’s festival with all the noise and -extravagance in your power, is not more a profane inclination than a -pious duty,) that simpleton, the Conde de Villa Nova, opened his<a name="page_vol_2_2080" id="page_vol_2_2080"></a> garden -last night to the nob and mob-ility of Lisbon. There was a dull -illumination of paper lanterns, and a sort of pavilion awkwardly -constructed for dancing, beneath which the prettiest French and English -mantua-makers, milliners, and abigails of the metropolis, figured away -in cotillons with the Duke of Cadaval and some other young men of the -first distinction, who, like many as hopeful in our own capital, are -never at their ease but in low company. Two or three of my servants -accompanied my tailor to the fête, and returned enraptured with the -affable pleasing manners of the foreign milliners and native nobility.</p> - -<p>I should have been most happy to remain at home, in the shade of my -green blinds, giving ear, through mere laziness, to any nonsense that -anybody chose to say to me; but we had been long engaged to dine with -Don Diego de Noronha, at the Anjeja Palace.</p> - -<p>When we arrived at our destination, we found the heir of the family -surrounded by priests and tutors, learning to look out at the window, -the chief employment of Portuguese fidalgo life. Oh what a precious -collection of stories did I hear at this attic banquet! There<a name="page_vol_2_2081" id="page_vol_2_2081"></a> happened -to be amongst the company a young oaf of a priest, from I forget what -university (I hope not Coimbra), who kept on during the whole dinner -favouring us with marvellous narrations, such as the late Queen’s -pounding a pearl of inestimable value, to swallow in medical potions; -and that one of the nuns of the Convent of the Sacrament, having -intrigued with old Beelzebub <i>in propria persona</i>, had been sent to the -Inquisition, and the window through which his infernal majesty had -entered upon this gallant exploit, walled up and painted over with red -crosses. The same precautionary decoration, continued he, has been -bestowed upon every opening in the façade, so that no demon, however -sharp-set, can get in again. He would fain also have made us believe, -that a woman very fair and plump to the eye, with an overflowing breast -of milk, who took in sucklings to nurse cheaper than anybody else, -regularly made away with them, and was now in the dungeons of the holy -office, accused of having minced up above a score of innocents!</p> - -<p>Heaven forbid I should detail any further<a name="page_vol_2_2082" id="page_vol_2_2082"></a> particulars of our -table-talk; if I did, you would be finely surfeited.</p> - -<p>After dinner the company dispersed, some to their couches, some to hear -a sonata on the dulcimer, accompanied on the jew’s harp by a couple of -dwarfs; the heir-apparent to his beloved window; and Verdeil and I to a -convent of Savoyard nuns, at Belem, the coolest, cleanest retirement in -the whole neighbourhood, and blessed into the bargain by the especial -patronage and inspection of Father Theodore d’Almeida. His reverence, it -seems, had been the principal instrument, under Providence, of -transplanting these blessed sprouts of holiness from the Convent of the -Visitation at Annecy to the glowing climate of Portugal.</p> - -<p>As I had just received a sugary epistle from this paragon of piety, -recommending his favourite establishment in several pages of ardent -panegyric, he could do no less than come forth from his interior nest, -and bid us welcome with a countenance arrayed in the sweetest smiles, -though I dare say he wished us at old scratch for our intrusion.</p> - -<p>“Poor things,” said he, speaking of the chickens under education in this -coop, “we do<a name="page_vol_2_2083" id="page_vol_2_2083"></a> all we can to improve their tender minds and their -guileless tongues in foreign languages. Sister Theresa has an admirable -knack for teaching arithmetic; our venerable mother is remarkably -well-bottomed in grammar, and Sister Francisca Salesia, whom I had the -happiness to bring over from Lyons, is not only a most pure and -persuasive moralist, but is acknowledged to be one of the first needles -in Christendom, so we do tolerably well in embroidery. In music we are -no great proficients. We allow of no modinhas, no opera airs; a plain -hymn is all you must expect here; in short, we are ill-fitted to receive -such distinguished visiters, and have nothing the world would call -interesting to recommend us; but then, I, their unworthy confessor, must -allow that such sweet, clean consciences as I meet with in this asylum -are treasures beyond all that the Indies can furnish.”</p> - -<p>Both Verdeil and myself, conscious of our own extreme unworthiness, were -quite abashed by this sublime declamation, poured forth with hands -crossed on the bosom, and eyes turned up to the ceiling, like some -images one has seen of St. Ignatius or St. Francis Xavier.<a name="page_vol_2_2084" id="page_vol_2_2084"></a></p> - -<p>It was a minute at least before his reverence relaxed from this -attitude, and, drawing a curtain, condescended to admit us into a -spacious parlour, delightfully cool, perfumed with jasmine, and filled -with little Brazilian doves, parroquets, and canary birds. Such a cooing -and chirping was never heard in greater perfection, except in Mahomet’s -Paradise; nor were the houries wanting, for in a deep recess, behind a -tolerably wide lattice, sat a row of the loveliest young creatures I -ever beheld. A daughter of my friend Don Josè de Brito was amongst the -number, and her eyes, of the most bewitching softness, seemed to acquire -new fascination in this mysterious sort of twilight, beaming from behind -a double grating of iron.</p> - -<p>Every now and then the birds, not in the least intimidated by the -predatory glances of Father Theodore, violated the sanctuary, and -pitched upon ivory necks, and were received with ten thousand -endearments by the angels of this little sequestered heaven, which -looked so refreshing, and formed by its sacred calm so inviting a -contrast to the turbulent world without, and its glaring atmosphere, -that I could not resist exclaiming, “O that I had wings like<a name="page_vol_2_2085" id="page_vol_2_2085"></a> a dove, -that I might fly through those bars and be at rest!”</p> - -<p>I need not tell you we passed half-an-hour most delightfully in talking -of music, gardens, roses, and devotion, with the meninas, and had almost -forgotten we were engaged to hear the Scarlati sing. Her father, an old -captain of horse, of Italian extraction, lives not far from the Convent -of the Visitation, so we had not much time during our transit to -experience the woful difference between the cool parlour of the nuns and -the suffocating exterior air.</p> - -<p>A numerous group of the young ladies’ kindred stood ready at the -street-door, with all that hospitable courtesy for which the Portuguese -are so remarkably distinguished, to usher the strangers up-stairs into a -gallery hung with arras and sconces, not unlike the great room of an -Italian inn, once the palace of a nobleman. To keep up these post-house -ideas, we scented a strong effluvia of the stable, and heard certain -stampings and neighings, as if a party of hounnyms had arrived to -partake of the concert.</p> - -<p>Many strange, aboriginal figures of both sexes were assembled, an -uncouth collection enough, I am apt to conjecture; however, I<a name="page_vol_2_2086" id="page_vol_2_2086"></a> soon -ceased giving them any notice. The young lady of the house charmed me at -first sight by her graceful, modest manner; but when she sang some airs, -composed by the famous Perez, I was not less delighted than surprised. -Her voice modulates with unaffected carelessness into the most pathetic -tones.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> Though she has adopted the masterly and scientific style of -Ferracuti, one of the first singers in the Queen’s service, she gives a -simplicity of expression to the most difficult passages, that makes them -appear the effusions of a young romantic girl warbling to herself in the -secret recesses of a forest.</p> - -<p>I sat in a dark corner, unconscious of every thing that passed in the -apartment, of the singular<a name="page_vol_2_2087" id="page_vol_2_2087"></a> figures that entered, or those that went -away; the starings, whisperings, and fan-flirtings of the assembly were -lost upon me: I could not utter a syllable, and was vexed when an -arbitrary old aunt insisted upon no more singing, and proposed a -faro-table and a dance.</p> - -<p>Most eagerly did I wish all the kindred and their friends petrified for -the time being by some obliging necromancer, and would have done any -thing, short of engaging my own dear self to the devil, to have obtained -an uninterrupted audience of the syren till morning.<a name="page_vol_2_2088" id="page_vol_2_2088"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVI-port" id="LETTER_XVI-port"></a>LETTER XVI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.—Negro Beldames.—Quinta of -Marvilla.—Moonlight view of Lisbon.—Illuminated windows of the -Palace.—The old Marquis of Penalva.—Padre Duarte, a famous -Jesuit.—Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.—Their -ludicrous blunders.—Toad-eaters.—Sonatas.—Portuguese minuets.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">30th June, 1787.</p> - -<p>...W<small>E</small> sallied out after dinner to pay visits. Never did I behold such -cursed ups-and-downs, such shelving descents and sudden rises, as occur -at every step one takes in going about Lisbon. I thought myself fifty -times on the point of being overturned into the Tagus, or tumbled into -sandy ditches, among rotten shoes, dead cats, and negro beldames, who -retire into such dens and burrows for the purpose of telling fortunes -and selling charms for the ague.</p> - -<p>The Inquisition too often lays hold of these wretched sibyls, and works -them confoundedly.<a name="page_vol_2_2089" id="page_vol_2_2089"></a> I saw one dragging into light as I passed by the -ruins of a palace thrown down by the earthquake. Whether a familiar of -the Inquisition was griping her in his clutches, or whether she was -being taken to account by some disappointed votary, I will not pretend -to answer. Be that as it may, I was happy to be driven out of sight of -this hideous object, whose contortions and howlings were truly horrible.</p> - -<p>The more one is acquainted with Lisbon, the less it answers the -expectations raised by its magnificent appearance from the river. Could -a traveller be suddenly transported without preparation or prejudice to -many parts of this city, he would reasonably conclude himself traversing -a succession of villages awkwardly tacked together, and overpowered by -massive convents. The churches in general are in a woful taste of -architecture, the taste of Borromini, with crinkled pediments, -furbelowed cornices and turrets, somewhat in the style of old-fashioned -French clock-cases, such as Boucher designed with many a scrawl and -flourish to adorn the apartments of Madame de Pompadour.</p> - -<p>We traversed the city this evening in all its<a name="page_vol_2_2090" id="page_vol_2_2090"></a> extent in our way to the -Duke d’Alafoens’s villa, and gave vast numbers of her most faithful -Majesty’s subjects an opportunity of staring at the height of the -coach-box, the short jacket of the postilion, and other Anglicisms of -the equipage. The Duke had been summoned to a council of state; but we -found the Marquis of Marialva, who went with us round the apartments of -the villa, which have nothing remarkable except one or two large saloons -of excellent and striking proportions.</p> - -<p>He afterwards proposed accompanying us about half-a-mile farther to the -quinta of Marvilla, which belongs to his father. This spot has great -picturesque beauties. The trees are old and fantastic, bending over -ruined fountains and mutilated statues of heroes in armour, variegated -by the lapse of years with innumerable tints of purple, green, and -yellow. In the centre of almost impenetrable thickets of bay and myrtle, -rise strange pyramids of rock-work surrounded by marble lions, that have -a magic, symbolical appearance. M—— has feeling enough to respect -these uncouth monuments of an age when his ancestors performed so<a name="page_vol_2_2091" id="page_vol_2_2091"></a> many -heroic achievements, and readily promised me never to sacrifice them and -the venerable shades in which they are embowered, to the pert, gaudy -taste of modern Portuguese gardening.</p> - -<p>We walked part of the way home by the serene light of the full moon -rising from behind the mountains on the opposite shore of the Tagus, at -this extremity of the metropolis above nine miles broad. Lisbon, which -appeared to me so uninteresting a few hours ago, assumed a very -different aspect by these soft gleams. The flights of steps, terraces, -chapels, and porticos of several convents and palaces on the brink of -the river, shone forth like edifices of white marble, whilst the rough -cliffs and miserable sheds rising above them were lost in dark shadows. -The great square through which we passed was filled with idlers of all -sorts and sexes, staring up at the illuminated windows of the palace in -hopes of catching a glimpse of her Majesty, the Prince, the Infantas, -the Confessor, or Maids of Honour, whisking about from one apartment to -the other, and giving ample scope to amusing conjectures.<a name="page_vol_2_2092" id="page_vol_2_2092"></a> I am told the -Confessor, though somewhat advanced in his career, is far from being -insensible to the allurements of beauty, and pursues the young nymphs of -the palace from window to window with juvenile alacrity.</p> - -<p>It was nine before we got home, and I had not been long reposing myself -after my walk, and arranging some plants I had gathered in the thickets -of Marvilla, before three distinct ringings of the bell at my door -announced the arrival of some distinguished personage; nor was I -disappointed, for in came the old Marquis of Penalva and his son, who -till a year ago, when the Queen granted him the same title as his -father, was called Conde de Tarouca.</p> - -<p>You must have heard frequently of that name. A grandfather of the old -Marquis rendered it very illustrious by several important and successful -embassies: the splendid entertainments he gave at the Congress of -Utrecht, are amply described in Madame du Noyers and several other books -of memoirs.</p> - -<p>The Penalvas brought this evening in their suite a famous Jesuit, Padre -Duarte, whom Pombal thought of sufficient consequence to be imprisoned -for eighteen years, and a tall,<a name="page_vol_2_2093" id="page_vol_2_2093"></a> knock-kneed, rhubarb-faced physician, -in a gorgeous suit of glistening satin, one of the most ungain, -conceited professors of the art of murdering I ever met with. Between -the Jesuit and the doctor I had enough to do to keep my temper or -countenance. They prated incessantly, pretended to have the most -implicit admiration for everything that came from England, either in the -way of furniture or poetry, and confounding dates, names, and subjects -in one strange jumble, asked whether Sir Peter Lely was not the actual -President of our Royal Academy, and launched forth into a warm encomium -of my countryman Hans Holbein. I begged leave to assure these -complaisant sages, that the last-mentioned artist was born at Basle, and -that Sir Peter Lely had been dead a century. They stared a little at -this information, but continued, nevertheless, in full song, playing off -a sounding peal of compliments upon our national proficiency in -painting, watch-making, the stocking-manufactory, &c. when General -Forbes came in and made a diversion in my favour. We had some -conversation upon the present state of Portugal, and the risks it runs -of being swallowed up by<a name="page_vol_2_2094" id="page_vol_2_2094"></a> the negotiations, not by the arms of Spain, -ere many years are elapsed....</p> - -<p>Our discourse was interrupted by the arrival of a fiddler, a priest, and -an Italian musician, humble servants and toad-eaters to my illustrious -guests. They fell a thumping my poor piano-forte, and playing sonatas -whether I would or not. You are aware I am no great friend to sonatas, -and that certain chromatic, squeaking tones of a fiddle, when the -performer turns up the whites of his eyes, waggles a greasy chin, and -affects ecstasies, set my teeth on edge. The griping countenance of the -doctor was enough to produce that effect already, without the assistance -of his fellow parasites, the priest and musician. Padre Duarte seemed to -like them no better than myself; General Forbes had wisely withdrawn; -and the old Marquis, inspired by a pathetic adagio, glided suddenly -across the room in a step which I took for the beginning of a ballet -heroique, but which turned out a minuet in the Portuguese style, with -all its kicks and flourishes, in which Miss S——, who had come in to -tea, was persuaded to join much against her inclination. It was no -sooner ended, than the doctor displayed his rueful<a name="page_vol_2_2095" id="page_vol_2_2095"></a> length of person in -such a twitching angular minuet, as I want words to describe; so, -between the sister-arts of music and dancing, I passed a delectable -evening. This set shan’t catch me at home again in a hurry.<a name="page_vol_2_2096" id="page_vol_2_2096"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVII-port" id="LETTER_XVII-port"></a>LETTER XVII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Dog-howlings.—Visit to the Convent of San Josè di -Ribamar.—Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.—Magnificent and -hospitable reception.—Whispering in the shade of mysterious -chambers.—The Bishop of Algarve.—Evening scene in the garden of -Marvilla.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 2nd, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>WAS</small> awakened in the night by a horrid cry of dogs; not that infernal -pack which Dryden tells us in his divine tale of Theodore and Honoria -went regularly a ghost-hunting every Friday, howled half so dreadfully: -Lisbon is more infested than any other capital I ever inhabited by herds -of these half-famished animals, making themselves of use and importance -by ridding the streets of some part, at least, of their unsavoury -incumbrances.</p> - -<p>Verdeil, who could not sleep any more than myself, on account of a -furious and long protracted battle between two parties of these -hell-hounds, persuaded me to rise with the<a name="page_vol_2_2097" id="page_vol_2_2097"></a> sun, and proceed on -horseback along the shore of Belem, which appeared in all its morning -glory; the sky diversified by streaming clouds of purple edged with -gold, and the sea by innumerable vessels of different sizes shooting -along in various directions, whilst the waves at the entrance of the -harbour were in violent agitation, all froth and foam.</p> - -<p>To vary our excursion a little, we struck out of the common track, and -visited the convent of San Josè di Ribamar. The building is irregular -and picturesque, rising from a craggy eminence, and backed by a thicket -of elm, bay, and arbor judæ. We were shown by simple, smiling friars, -into a small court with cloisters, supported by low Tuscan columns. A -fountain playing in the middle and sprinkling a profusion of flowers, -gave an oriental air to this little court that pleased me exceedingly. -The monks seem sensible of its merits, for they keep it tolerably clean, -which is more than I will say for their garden. Bindweed and dwarf-aloes -almost prevented our crossing it in our way to the thicket; a delicious -retreat, the refuge and comfort of half the birds in the country. Thanks -to monkish laziness, the<a name="page_vol_2_2098" id="page_vol_2_2098"></a> underwood remains unclipped, and intrudes -wherever it pleases upon the alleys, which hang over the sea, in a bold -romantic manner.</p> - -<p>The fathers would show me their flower-garden, and a very pleasant -terrace it is; neatly paved with chequered tiles, and interspersed with -knots of carnations, in a style as ancient, I should conjecture, as the -dominion of the Moors in Portugal. Espaliers of citron and orange cover -the walls, and have almost gotten the better of some glaring shell-work, -with which a reverend father encrusted them ten or twelve years ago. -Shining beads, china plates and saucers turned inside out, compose the -chief ornaments of this decoration; I observed the same propensity to -shell-work and broken china in a Mr. de Visme, whose quinta at Bemfica -eclipses our Clapham and Islington villas in all the attractions of -leaden statues, Chinese temples, serpentine rivers, and dusty -hermitages.</p> - -<p>We returned home before the heat grew quite intolerable, and just in -time to go to a breakfast at the Marquis of Penalva’s, to which we had -been invited the day before yesterday. When once a Portuguese of the -first class determines to admit a stranger into the penetralia<a name="page_vol_2_2099" id="page_vol_2_2099"></a> of his -family, he spares no pains to set off all he possesses to the most -striking advantage, and offer it to his guest with the most liberal -hospitality; you appear to command him, and he everything. Our -reception, therefore, was most sumptuous and most cordial.</p> - -<p>If we had wished for a concert, the best musicians of the royal chapel -were in waiting to perform it; if to examine early editions of the -classics or scarce Portuguese authors, the library was open, and the -librarian ready to hand and explain to us any article that happened to -attract our attention; if to see pictures, the walls of several -apartments displayed an interesting collection, both of the Italian and -Flemish schools; if conversation, almost every person of literary note -in this capital, academicians and artists, were assembled. Supposing the -rarest botanical specimens and flowers had been our peculiar taste, some -of the most perfect I ever beheld were presented to us; and that nothing -in any line might be wanting, the rich grated folding-doors of a chapel -were expanded, and an altar splendidly lighted up, seemed to invite -those who felt spiritual calls, to indulge themselves.<a name="page_vol_2_2100" id="page_vol_2_2100"></a></p> - -<p>For my part, the sea breezes having sharpened my temporal appetite, I -sat down with great alacrity to breakfast. It was magnificent and well -served. I could not help noticing the extreme fineness of the linen, -curiously embroidered with arms and flowers, red on a white ground. -Superb embossed gilt salvers supported plates of iced fruit, -particularly scarlet strawberries, which are uncommon in Portugal, and -filled the apartment with fragrance; the more grateful, as it excited, -by the strong power of associated ideas, recollections of home and of -England.</p> - -<p>Much whispering and giggling was going forward in the cool shade of -several mysterious chambers, which opened into the saloon where we were -at table. These sounds proceeded from the ladies of the family, who, had -they been natives of Bagdad or Constantinople, could hardly have -remained in a more Asiatic state of seclusion. I was allowed, however, -to make my bow to them in their harem itself, which, I was given to -understand, I ought to look upon as a most flattering mark of -distinction. Who should I find in the midst of the group of senhoras, -and seated<a name="page_vol_2_2101" id="page_vol_2_2101"></a> like them upon the ground <i>à la façon de Barbarie</i>, but the -newly-consecrated, and very young-looking Bishop of Algarve, whose -small, black, sleek, schoolboyish head and sallow countenance, was -overshadowed by an enormous pair of green spectacles. Truth obliges me -to confess that the expression which beamed from the eyes under these -formidable glasses, did not absolutely partake of the most decent, mild, -or apostolic character. In process of time, perhaps, he may acquire that -varnish, without which the least holy intentions often miss their aim, -the varnish of hypocrisy. I wonder he has not already attained a more -conspicuous degree of perfection in this style, having studied under a -complete <i>tartuffe</i> and Jansenistical bigot as ever existed, one of the -cock-birds of a nest of imaginary philosophers, who are working hard to -undo what little good has been done in this country, and laying a mine -of ten thousand intrigues to blow up, if they can but contrive it, all -genuine sentiments of religion and morality.</p> - -<p>The old Marquis of Penalva pressed us to stay dinner, which was set out -in high order, in a pleasant, shady apartment. Verdeil could<a name="page_vol_2_2102" id="page_vol_2_2102"></a> not resist -the temptation; but I was fatigued with the howlings of the night, and -the sultriness and bustle of the day, and went home to a quieter party -with the Grand Prior and Don Pedro.</p> - -<p>In the evening we drove to Marvilla, the neglected garden I have before -mentioned, and which commands the broadest expanse of the Tagus, a -prospect which recalled to my mind the lake of Geneva, and all that -befel me on its banks. You may imagine, then, it tended much more to -depress than exhilarate my spirits. I consented, however, to accompany -the Grand Prior about the alleys and terraces of this romantic -enclosure, the scene of his childhood, and of which he is peculiarly -fond. The palace, courts, and fountains are almost in ruins, the -parterres of myrtle have shot up into wild bushes covered with blossoms, -and the statues are half concealed by jasmine.</p> - -<p>Here is a small theatre for operas, and a chapel, not unlike a mosque in -shape, and arabesque ornaments, darkly shadowed by Spanish banners, the -trophies of the battle of Elvas, gained by an ancestor of the Marialvas.</p> - -<p>A long bower of vines, supported by marble<a name="page_vol_2_2103" id="page_vol_2_2103"></a> pillars, leads from the -palace to the chapel. There is something majestic in this verdant -gallery, and the glow of sun-set piercing its foliage, lighted up the -wan features of several superannuated servants of the family, who -crawled out of their decayed chambers and threw themselves on their -knees before the Grand Prior and Don Pedro.</p> - -<p>We wandered about this forlorn, abandoned garden, whose stillness -equalled that of a Carthusian convent, till dusk, when a refreshing wind -having risen, waved the cypresses and scattered the white jasmine -flowers over the parterres of myrtle in clouds like snow. Don Pedro -filled the carriage with flowery sprays pulled from mutilated statues, -and we were all half intoxicated before we reached my habitation with -the delicious but overcoming perfume.<a name="page_vol_2_2104" id="page_vol_2_2104"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVIII-port" id="LETTER_XVIII-port"></a>LETTER XVIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Excursion to Cintra.—Villa of Ramalhaô.—The -Garden.—Collares.—Pavilion designed by Pillement.—A convulsive -gallop.—Cold weather in July.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 9th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>WAS</small> at the Marialva Palace by nine, and set off from thence with the -Marquis for Cintra. Having the command of the Queen’s stables, in which -are four thousand mules and two thousand horses, he orders as many -relays as he pleases, and we changed mules four times in the space of an -hour.</p> - -<p>A few minutes after ten we were landed at Ramalhaô, a villa, under the -pyramidical rocks of Cintra, Signor S. Arriaga was so kind as to lend me -a month or two ago, and which I have not had time to visit till to-day. -The suite of apartments are spacious and airy, and the views they -command of sea and arid country boundless; but unless the heat becomes -more violent,<a name="page_vol_2_2105" id="page_vol_2_2105"></a> I shall be cooler than I wish in them, as they contain -not a chimney except in the kitchen.</p> - -<p>I found the garden in excellent order, and flourishing crops of -vegetables springing up between rows of orange and citron. Such is the -power of the climate, that the gardenias and Cape plants I brought with -me from England, mere stumps, are covered with beautiful blossoms. The -curled mallows, and some varieties of Indian-corn, sown by my English -gardener, have shot up to a strange elevation, and begin already to form -shady avenues and fairy forests, where children might play in perfection -at landscape-gardening.</p> - -<p>After I had passed half-an-hour in looking about me, the Marquis and I -got into our chair and drove to his own villa; a new creation, which has -cost him a great many thousand pounds sterling. Five years ago it was a -wild hill bestrewn with flints and rocky fragments. At present you find -a gay pavilion designed by Pillement, and elegantly decorated; a -parterre with statues and fountains, thick alleys of laurel, bay, and -laurustine, cascades, arbours, clipped box-trees, and every ornament the -Portuguese taste in gardening renders desirable.<a name="page_vol_2_2106" id="page_vol_2_2106"></a></p> - -<p>We dined at a clean snug inn, situated towards the middle of the village -of Cintra. The Queen has lately bestowed this house and a large tract of -ground adjoining it, upon the Marquis. From its windows and loggias you -look down deep ravines and bold slopes of woods and copses, variegated -with mossy stones and ancient decayed chesnuts.</p> - -<p>As soon as the sun grew low we went to Collares, and walked on a terrace -belonging to M. la Roche, a French merchant, who has shown some -glimmering of taste in the laying out of his villa. The groves of pine -and chesnut starting from the crevices of rock, and rising one above -another to a considerable elevation, give Collares the air of an Alpine -village. Innumerable rills, overhung by cork-trees and branching lemons, -burst out of ruined walls by the wayside, and dash into marble basins. A -favourite attendant of the late king’s, who has a very large property in -these environs, invited us with much civility and obsequiousness into -his garden. I thought myself entering the orchards of Alcinous. The -boughs literally bent under loads of fruit; the slightest<a name="page_vol_2_2107" id="page_vol_2_2107"></a> shake strewed -the ground with plums, oranges, and apricots.</p> - -<p>This villa boasts a grand artificial cascade, with tritons and dolphins -vomiting torrents of water; but I paid it not half the attention its -proprietor expected, and retiring under the shade of the fruit-trees, -feasted on the golden apples and purple plums that were rolling about me -in such profusion. The Marquis, who shares with most of the Portuguese a -remarkable predilection for flowers, filled his carriage with carnations -and jasmine. I never saw plants more conspicuous for size and vigour -than those which have the luck of being sown in this fortunate soil. The -exposition likewise is singularly happy; skreened by sloping hills, and -defended from the sea-airs by several miles of thickets and orchards. I -felt unwilling to quit a spot so favoured by nature, and M—— flatters -himself I shall be tempted to purchase it.</p> - -<p>The wind became troublesome as we ascended the hill, crowned by the -Marialva villa. The sky was clear and the sun set fiery. The distant -convent of Mafra, glowing with ruddy<a name="page_vol_2_2108" id="page_vol_2_2108"></a> light, looked like the enchanted -palace of a giant, and the surrounding country bleak and barren as if -the monster had eaten it desolate. To repose ourselves a little after -our rapid excursion we entered the pavilion I told you just now -Pillement had designed. It represents a bower of fantastic Indian trees -mingling their branches, and discovering between them peeps of a summer -sky. From the mouth of a flying dragon depends a magnificent lustre for -fifty lights, hung with festoons of brilliant glass, that twinkle like -strings of diamonds.</p> - -<p>We loitered in this saloon till it was pitch-dark. The pages riding full -speed before us with flaming torches, and the wind driving back sparks -and smoke full in our faces, I was stunned and bewildered, and -experienced, perhaps, the sensations of a novice in sorcery, mounted for -the first time behind a witch on a broomstick. In less than an hour we -had rattled over twelve miles of rough, disjoined pavement, going up and -down the steepest hills in a convulsive gallop, so that I expected every -instant to be thrown flat on my nose; but, happily, the mules were -picked from perhaps a<a name="page_vol_2_2109" id="page_vol_2_2109"></a> hundred, and never stumbled. I found the air on -the heights above the Ajueda very keen and piercing.</p> - -<p>It sounds strange to be complaining of cold at Lisbon on the ninth of -July.<a name="page_vol_2_2110" id="page_vol_2_2110"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIX-port" id="LETTER_XIX-port"></a>LETTER XIX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.—Palace of Cintra.—Reservoir -of Gold and Silver Fish.—Parterre on the summit of a lofty -terrace.—Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.—The -Chapel.—Barbaric profusion of Gold.—Altar at which Don Sebastian -knelt when he received a supernatural warning.—Rooms in -preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.—Return to Ramalhaô.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 24th, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HERE</small> exists, I am convinced, a decided sympathy between toads and -witch-like old women. Mother Morgan<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> descended this morning, not into -the infernal regions, but into the cellar, and immediately five or six -spanking reptiles of this mysterious species waddled around her. She -rewarded the confidence the poor things placed in her rather scurvily, -and laid three of the fattest sprawling. I saw them lying breathless in -the court as I got on horseback; the largest measured seven inches in<a name="page_vol_2_2111" id="page_vol_2_2111"></a> -diameter. Portuguese toads may be more distinguished for size, but are -not half so amiably speckled as those we have the happiness to harbour -in England.</p> - -<p>I was some time hesitating which way I should turn my horse’s steps, -whether to the Pedra d’os Ovos, or on the other side of the rock to the -Peninha, a cell belonging to the Hieronimites, and dependent upon their -principal eyry, Nossa Senhora da Penha. Marialva, whom I met with all -his train of equerries and picadors coming forth from his villa, decided -me not to take a clambering ride, but to accompany him to the palace, -the interior of which I had not yet visited.</p> - -<p>The Alhambra itself is scarcely more morisco in point of architecture -than this confused pile, which seems to grow out of the summit of a -rocky eminence, and is broken into a variety of picturesque recesses and -projections. It is a thousand pities that they have whitened its -venerable walls, stopped up a range of bold arcades, and sliced out one -end of the great hall into two or three mean apartments like the -dressing-rooms of a theatre. From the windows, which are all in a -fantastic oriental style,<a name="page_vol_2_2112" id="page_vol_2_2112"></a> crinkled and crankled, and supported by -twisted pillars of smooth marble, striking, romantic views of the cliffs -and village of Cintra are commanded. Several irregular courts and -loggias, formed by the angles of square towers, are enlivened by -fountains of marble and gilt bronze, continually pouring forth abundant -streams of the purest water.</p> - -<p>A sort of reservoir, almost long enough to be styled a canal, is -continued the whole length of the great hall, and serves as a paradise -for shoals of the largest and most brilliant gold and silver fish I ever -set eyes upon. The murmur of the jets-d’eau which rise from this canal, -the ripple of the water undulating against steps and slabs of polished -marble, the glancing and gleaming of the fish, and the striking contrast -of light and shade produced by the intricate labyrinth of arches and -columns, combine altogether to form a scene of enchantment such as we -sometimes dream of, but hardly suppose is ever realized. There is a -sobriety in the hues of the marble, a mysteriousness in the dark -recesses seen in perspective, and a solemnity in the deep colour, -approaching to blackness, of the water in that part of the reservoir -which is<a name="page_vol_2_2113" id="page_vol_2_2113"></a> overshadowed by lofty buildings, I cannot help thinking -superior to all the flutter and glitter of the most famous Moorish -edifices at Granada or Seville.</p> - -<p>The flat summit of one of the loftiest terraces, not less than one -hundred and fifty feet from the ground, is laid out as a neat parterre, -which is spread like an embroidered carpet before the entrance of a huge -square tower, almost entirely occupied by a hall encrusted with -glistening tiles, and crowned by a most singularly-shaped dome. Amidst -the scrolls of arabesque foliage which adorn it, appear the arms of the -principal Portuguese nobility. The achievement of the unfortunate house -of Tavora is blotted out, and the panel it occupied left bare.</p> - -<p>We had climbed up to this terrace and tower by one of those steep, -cork-screw staircases, of which there are numbers in the palace, and -which connect with vaulted passages in a secret and suspicious manner. -The Marquis pointed out to me the mosaic pavement of a small chamber, -fretted and worn away in several places by the steps of Alphonso the -Sixth, who<a name="page_vol_2_2114" id="page_vol_2_2114"></a> was confined to this narrow space a long series of years.</p> - -<p>Descending from it, we looked into the chapel, not less singular in form -and construction than the rest of the edifice. The low flat cupola, as -well as the intersections of the arches, are much in the style of a -mosque; but the barbaric profusion of gold, and still more barbaric -paintings with which every soffite and panel are covered, might almost -be supposed the work of Cingalese or Hindostanee artists, and reminded -me of those subterraneous pagodas where his Satanic Majesty receives -homage under the form of Gumputy or of Boodh.</p> - -<p>The original glare of all this strange scenery is greatly subdued by the -smoke of lamps, which have been burning for ages before the altar: a -mysterious pile of carved work and imagery, in perfect consonance, as to -gloom and uncouthness, with every other object in the place. It was -whilst kneeling before this very altar that the young, the ardent, the -chivalrous Don Sebastian is said to have received a supernatural warning -to renounce that fatal African expedition which cost him his crown and<a name="page_vol_2_2115" id="page_vol_2_2115"></a> -his life, and what an heroic mind holds in far higher estimation, that -immortal fame which follows successful achievements.</p> - -<p>A something I can hardly describe, an oppressive gloom, seemed to hang -over this chapel, which remains very nearly, I should imagine, in the -same style it was left by the ill-fated Sebastian. The want of a free -circulation of air, and a heavy cloud of incense, affected the nerves of -my head so disagreeably that I was glad to move on, and follow the -Marquis into the rooms preparing for the Queen and the Infantas. These -are airy and well ventilated; but instead of hanging them with rich -arras, representing the adventures of knights and worthies, her -Majesty’s upholsterers are hard at work covering the stout walls with -bright silks and satins of the palest and most delicate colours. I saw -no furniture worth notice, not a picture or a cabinet: our stay, -therefore, as we had nothing to see, was not protracted.</p> - -<p>As soon as the Marquis had given some orders, with which his royal -mistress had charged him, we returned to Ramalhaô, where Horne and -Guildermeester, the Dutch Consul, were<a name="page_vol_2_2116" id="page_vol_2_2116"></a> waiting our arrival, and -squabbling about insurances, percentages, commissions, and other -commercial speculations.</p> - -<p>I have been persuading the Marquis to accompany me to-morrow to -Guildermeester’s: it is the old man’s birthday, and he opens his new -house with dancing and suppering. We shall have a pretty sample of the -factory misses, clerks, and apprentices, some underlings of the <i>corps -diplomatique</i>, and God knows how many thousand pound weight of Dutch and -Hambro merchants.<a name="page_vol_2_2117" id="page_vol_2_2117"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XX-port" id="LETTER_XX-port"></a>LETTER XX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Grand gala at Court.—Festival in honour of the birthday of -Guildermeester.—Mad freaks of a Frenchman.—Unwelcome lights of -Truth.—Invective against the English.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">July 25th, 1787.</p> - -<p>G<small>RAND</small> gala at Court, and the Marquis gone to attend it; for this blessed -day not only gave birth to Guildermeester, but to the Princess of -Brazil. We went to dine with the Marchioness. A band of regimental -music, on their march to Guildermeester, began playing in the court, and -drew forth one of those curious swarms of all sexes, ages, and colours, -which this beneficent family are so fond of harbouring. Donna -Henriquetta was seated on the steps, which lead up to the great -pavilion, whispering to some of her favourite attendants, who, like the -chorus in an ancient Greek tragedy, were continually giving their -opinion of whatever was going forward.<a name="page_vol_2_2118" id="page_vol_2_2118"></a></p> - -<p>Just as Don Pedro and I were preparing to set off together for the ball -at the old consul’s, we were agreeably surprised by the arrival of the -Marquis, who had escaped from the palace much earlier than he expected. -I carried him in my chaise to Horne’s, where we drank tea on his -terrace, which commands the most romantic view in Cintra; vast sweeps of -varied foliage, banks with twisted roots, and trunks of enormous -chesnuts, mingled with weeping-willows of the freshest verdure, and -citrons clustered with fruit. Above this sylvan scene tower three -shattered pinnacles of rock, the middle one diversified by the turrets -and walls of Nossa Senhora da Penha, a convent of Jeronimites, -frequently concealed in clouds. I leaned against a cork-tree, which -spreads its branches almost entirely over the veranda, enjoying the -view, and staring idly at the grotesque figures, Dutch, English, and -Portuguese, passing along to Guildermeester’s; a series sufficiently -diversified to have amused me for some time, had not M—— grown -impatient and uneasy. His brother-in-law, S—— V——, to whom he has a -mortal aversion, having made his appearance, the powers of light and -darkness, if personified,<a name="page_vol_2_2119" id="page_vol_2_2119"></a> could not exhibit a stronger contrast than -these two personages; M—— looking all benignity, and S—— V—— all -malevolence. Indeed, if one half of the atrocities<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> public report -attributes to this notorious nobleman be true, I should not wonder at -the blackness of revenge and tyranny being so deeply marked in every -line of his countenance.</p> - -<p>Moving off the first opportunity, we passed through dark and gloomy -lanes, admirably calculated for such exploits as I have just alluded to, -and were near being jerked into a ditch as we drove to the old consul’s -door. The space before this new building is in sad disorder. The house -has little more than bare walls, and was not very splendidly lighted up.</p> - -<p>As for the company, they turned out just what I expected. Madame G——, -who is a woman of spirit and discernment, did the honours with the -greatest ease, and paid her principal guests the most marked attentions. -There is a something pointedly original in all her observations, which -pleased me very much. She is not, however, of the merciful tribe, and<a name="page_vol_2_2120" id="page_vol_2_2120"></a> -joined forces with Verdeil (no foe to a little slashing conversation) in -cutting up the factory. M—— handed her in to supper. This part of the -entertainment was magnificent. There was a bright illumination, an -immense profusion of plate, a striking breadth of table, every delicacy -that could be procured, and a dessert-frame, fifty or sixty feet in -length, gleaming with burnished figures and vases of silver flowers. I -felt no inclination to dance after supper; the music was not inspiring, -and the company thrown into the utmost confusion by the mad freaks of a -Frenchman, upon whom one of the principal ladies present is supposed for -two or three years past to have placed her affections. A <i>coup de -soleil</i> and a quarrel with his ambassador, Monsieur de Bombelles, it -seems had turned the poor fellow’s brain: there was no preventing his -rushing from room to room with the sputter and eccentricity of a -fire-work, now abusing one person, now another, confessing publicly the -universal kindness he had received from the lady above hinted at, and -the many marks of tender affection a certain Miss W—— had bestowed on -him. “Why,” said he to the two<a name="page_vol_2_2121" id="page_vol_2_2121"></a> heroines, who I am told are not upon the -best terms imaginable, “should you squabble and scratch? You are both -equally indulgent, and have both rendered me in your turns the happiest -mortal in the universe.”</p> - -<p>Whilst the light of truth was shining upon the bystanders in this very -singular manner, I leave you to imagine the awkward surprise of the -worthy old husband, and the angry blushes of his spouse and her fair -associate. I never beheld a more capital scene. In some of our -pantomimes, if I recollect rightly, harlequin applies a touchstone to -his adversaries, and by its magic influence draws truth from their -mouths in spite of propriety or interest. The lawyer confesses having -fingered a bribe, the soldier his flight in the day of battle, and the -whining methodistical dowager her frequent recourse to the bottle of -inspiration. This wondrous effect seems to have been here realized, and -some malicious demon to have possessed the talkative Frenchman, and to -have compelled him to disclose the mysteries to which he owes his -subsistence. Amongst the harsh truths poured out by this flow of -sincerity was a vehement apostrophe to the English<a name="page_vol_2_2122" id="page_vol_2_2122"></a> canaille, as he -styled them, upon their rank intolerance of all customs except their -own, and their ten thousand starch uncharitable prejudices. Mrs.——, -become dauntless through despair, took up the cudgels in this cause most -vigorously, compared the chief part of the company to a swarm of -venomous insects, unworthy to crawl upon the hem of her really pure, -though calumniated garments, and fit to be shaken off with a vengeance -the first opportunity.</p> - -<p>The Marquis, Don Pedro, and I enjoyed the scene so much, that we stayed -later than we intended.<a name="page_vol_2_2123" id="page_vol_2_2123"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXI-port" id="LETTER_XXI-port"></a>LETTER XXI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Queen of Portugal’s Chapel.—The Orchestra.—Rehearsal of a -Council.—Proposal to visit Mafra.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Ramalhaô, near Cintra, 26th August, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> Queen of Portugal’s chapel is still the first in Europe; in point of -vocal and instrumental excellence, no other establishment of the kind, -the papal not excepted, can boast such an assemblage of admirable -musicians. Wherever her Majesty moves they follow; when she goes a -hawking to Salvaterra, or a health-hunting to the baths of the Caldas. -Even in the midst of these wild rocks and mountains, she is surrounded -by a bevy of delicate warblers, as plump as quails, and as gurgling and -melodious as nightingales. The violins and violoncellos at her Majesty’s -beck are all of the first order, and in oboe and flute-players her -musical menagerie is unrivalled.</p> - -<p><a name="page_vol_2_2124" id="page_vol_2_2124"></a>The Marquis of M——, as first Lord of the Bedchamber, Master of the -Horse, and, as it were, hereditary prime favourite, enjoys a decided -influence over this empire of sweet sounds; and having been so friendly -as to impart a share of these musical blessings to me, I have been -permitted to avail myself, whenever I please, of a selection from this -wonderful band of performers. This very morning, to my shame be it -recorded, I remained hour after hour in my newly-arranged pavilion, -without reading a word, writing a line, or entering into any -conversation. All my faculties were absorbed by the harmony of the wind -instruments, stationed at a distance in a thicket of orange and bay -trees. It was to no purpose that I tried several times to retire out of -the sound—I was as often drawn back as I attempted to snatch myself -away. Did I consult the health of my mind, I should dismiss these -musicians; their plaintive affecting tones are sure to awaken in my -bosom a long train of mournful recollections, and by the force of -associated ideas to plunge me into a state of languor and gloom.</p> - -<p class="cb">* - * - * - * - * - *</p> - -<p>My excellent friend, the Prior of Aviz, performed<a name="page_vol_2_2125" id="page_vol_2_2125"></a> a real act of -friendship, by breaking in almost by force upon my seclusion, and -rousing me from my reveries. He insisted upon my accompanying him to the -Archbishop’s, where the rehearsal of a council to be held in the Queen’s -presence was going forward, and all the ministers with their assistant -under-secretaries assembled. Such congregations are new to the good old -Confessor, who has been just pressed into the supreme direction, I might -say control, of the Cabinet, much against his will. He knows too well -the value of ease and tranquillity not to regret so violent an inroad -upon his usual habits of life. We found him, therefore, as might be -expected, in a state of turmoil and irritation, flushed up to the very -forehead with a ruddy tint, which was highly contrasted by his flowing -white flannel garments. These garments he frequently shook and crumpled, -and more than once did he strike with vehemence against his portly -paunch, which, though he declared it had waited an hour longer than -customary for its wonted replenishment, sounded by no means so hollow as -an empty tub. The old saying, that “<i>fat paunches make lean pates</i>,” -could not,<a name="page_vol_2_2126" id="page_vol_2_2126"></a> however, be applied to him; he was so gracious and -confidential as to give me a summary of what had been represented to him -from the different departments of state, with great perspicuity and -acuteness.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the interest this singular communication ought to have -excited, I paid it not half the attention it deserved. The impression I -had received in the morning, from the music of Haydn and Jomelli, still -lingered about me. The Grand Prior, finding politics could not shake -them off, consulted with his nephew, who happened to be just by in the -Queen’s apartment, and returned with a proposal, that as I had long -expressed a wish to see Mafra, we should put this scheme in execution -to-morrow. It was settled, therefore, that to-morrow we should set off.<a name="page_vol_2_2127" id="page_vol_2_2127"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXII-port" id="LETTER_XXII-port"></a>LETTER XXII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Road to Mafra.—Distant view of the Convent.—Its vast -fronts.—General magnificence of the Edifice.—The Church.—The -High Altar.—Eve of the Festival of St. Augustine.—The collateral -Chapels.—The Sacristy.—The Abbot of the Convent.—The -Library.—View from the Convent-roof.—Chime of Bells.—House of -the Capitan Mor.—Dinner.—Vespers.—Awful sound of the -Organs.—The Palace.—Return to the Convent.—Inquisitive -crowd.—The Garden.—Matins.—A Procession.—The Hall de -Profundis.—Solemn Repast.—Supper at the Capitan Mor’s.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">August 27th, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>E</small> got into the carriage at nine, in spite of the wind, which blew full -in our faces. The distance from the villa I inhabit to this stupendous -convent is about fourteen English miles, and the road, which by -good-luck has been lately mended, conducted across a parched, open -country, thinly scattered with windmills and villages. The retrospect on -the woody slopes and pointed rocks of Cintra is pleasant<a name="page_vol_2_2128" id="page_vol_2_2128"></a> enough; but -when you look forward, nothing can be more bleak or barren than the -prospect. Thanks to relays of mules, we advanced, full speed, and in -less than an hour and a quarter found ourselves under a strong wall -which winds boldly across the hills, and incloses the park of Mafra.</p> - -<p>We now caught a glimpse of the marble towers and dome of the convent, -relieved by an azure expanse of ocean, rising above the brow of heathy -eminences, diversified here and there by the bushy heads of Italian -pines and the tall spires of cypress. The roofs of the edifice were not -yet visible, and we continued some time winding about the undulating -acclivities in the park before they were discovered. A detachment of -lay-brothers were waiting to open the gates of the royal inclosure, -sadly blackened by a fire, which about a month ago consumed a great part -of its wood and verdure. Our approach spread a terrible alarm among the -herds of deer, which were peacefully browsing on a slope rather greener -than those in its neighbourhood. Off they scudded and took refuge in a -thicket of half-burnt pines.<a name="page_vol_2_2129" id="page_vol_2_2129"></a></p> - -<p>After coasting the wall of the great garden, we turned suddenly the -corner, and discovered one of the vast fronts of the convent, appearing -like a street of palaces. I cannot pretend that the style of the -building is such as a lover of pure Grecian architecture would approve; -the windows and doors are many of them fantastically shaped, but at -least well proportioned.</p> - -<p>I was admiring their ample range as we drove rapidly along, when, upon -wheeling round the lofty square pavilion which flanks the edifice, the -grand façade, extending above eight hundred feet, opened to my view. The -centre is formed by the porticos of the church richly adorned with -columns, niches, and bass-reliefs of marble. On each side two towers, -somewhat resembling those of St. Paul’s in London, rise to the height of -near two hundred feet, and, joining on to the enormous <i>corps de logis</i>, -the palace terminates to the right and left by its stately pavilions. -These towers are light, airy, and clustered with pillars, remarkably -beautiful; but their form in general borders too much on a sort of -pagoda-ish style, and wants solemnity. They contain many<a name="page_vol_2_2130" id="page_vol_2_2130"></a> bells of the -largest dimensions, and a famous chime which cost several hundred -thousand crusadoes, and which was set playing the moment our arrival was -notified. The platform and flight of steps before the columned entrance -of the church is strikingly grand; and the dome, which lifts itself up -so proudly above the pediment of the portico, merits praise for its -lightness and elegance.</p> - -<p>My eyes ranged along the vast extent of palace on each side till they -were tired, and I was glad to turn them from the glare of marble and -confusion of sculptured ornaments to the blue expanse of the distant -ocean. Before the front of this colossal structure a wide level of space -extends itself, at the extremity of which several white houses lie -dispersed. Though these buildings are by no means inconsiderable, they -appear, when contrasted with the immense pile in the neighbourhood, like -the booths of workmen, for such I took them upon my first survey, and -upon a nearer approach was quite surprised at their real dimensions.</p> - -<p>Few objects render the prospect from the platform of Mafra, interesting. -You look over<a name="page_vol_2_2131" id="page_vol_2_2131"></a> the roofs of an indifferent village and the summits of -sandy acclivities, backed by a boundless stretch of sea. On the left, -your view is terminated by the craggy mountains of Cintra; to the right, -a forest of pines in the Viscount of Ponte de Lima’s extensive garden, -affords the eye some small refreshment.</p> - -<p>To skreen ourselves from the sun, which darted powerfully on our heads, -we entered the church, passing through its magnificent portico, which -reminded me not a little of the entrance of St. Peter’s; and is crowded -with the statues of saints and martyrs, carved with infinite delicacy.</p> - -<p>The first <i>coup-d’œil</i> of the church is very imposing. The high -altar, adorned with two majestic columns of reddish variegated marble, -each, a single block, above thirty feet in height, immediately fixes the -eye. Trevisani has painted the altar-piece in a masterly manner. It -represents St. Anthony in the ecstasy of beholding the infant Jesus -descending into his cell amidst an effulgence of glory.</p> - -<p>To-morrow being the festival of St. Augustine, whose followers are the -actual possessors of this monastery, all the golden candelabra<a name="page_vol_2_2132" id="page_vol_2_2132"></a> were -displayed, and tapers lighted. After pausing a few minutes in the midst -of this bright illumination, we visited the collateral chapels, each -enriched with highly finished bassi-relievi and stately portals of black -and yellow marble, richly veined, and so highly polished as to reflect -objects like a mirror. Never did I behold such an assemblage of -beautiful marble as gleamed above, below, and around us. The pavement, -the vaulted ceiling, the dome, and even the topmost lantern, is -encrusted with the same costly and durable materials. Roses of white -marble and wreaths of palm-branches, most exquisitely sculptured, enrich -every part of the edifice. I never saw Corinthian capitals better -modelled, or executed with more precision and sharpness, than those of -the columns which support the nave.</p> - -<p>Having satisfied our curiosity by examining the various ornaments of the -altars, we followed our conductor through a long coved gallery into the -sacristy, a magnificent vaulted hall, panelled with some beautiful -varieties of alabaster and porphyry, and carpeted, as well as a chapel -adjoining it, in a style of the utmost magnificence.<a name="page_vol_2_2133" id="page_vol_2_2133"></a> We traversed -several more halls and chapels, adorned with equal splendour, till we -were fatigued and bewildered like errant knights in the mazes of an -enchanted palace.</p> - -<p>I began to think there was no end to these spacious apartments. The monk -who preceded us, a good-natured, slobbering greybeard, taking for -granted that I could not understand a syllable of his language, -attempted to explain the objects which presented themselves by signs, -and would hardly believe his ears, when I asked him in good Portuguese -when we should have done with chapels and sacristies. The old fellow -seemed vastly delighted with the Meninos, as he called Don Pedro and me; -and to give our young legs an opportunity of stretching themselves, -trotted along with such expedition that the Marquis and Verdeil wished -him in purgatory. To be sure, we advanced at a most rapid rate, striding -from one end to the other of a dormitory, six hundred feet in length, in -a minute or two. These vast corridors, and the cells with which they -communicate, three hundred in number, are all arched in the most -sumptuous and solid manner. Every cell, or rather chamber, for they are -sufficiently spacious,<a name="page_vol_2_2134" id="page_vol_2_2134"></a> lofty, and well lighted, to merit that -appellation, is furnished with tables and cabinets of Brazil-wood.</p> - -<p>Just as we entered the library, the Abbot of the convent, dressed in his -ceremonial habit, advanced to bid us welcome, and invite us to dine with -him to-morrow, St. Augustine’s day, in the refectory; which it seems is -a mighty compliment. We thought proper, however, to decline the honour, -being aware that, to enjoy it, we must sacrifice at least two hours of -our time, and be half parboiled by the steam of huge roasted calves, -turkeys, and gruntlings, which had long been fattening, no doubt, for -this solemn occasion.</p> - -<p>The library is of a prodigious length, not less than three hundred feet; -the arched roof of a pleasing form, beautifully stuccoed, and the -pavement of red and white marble. Much cannot be said in praise of the -cases in which the books are to be arranged. They are clumsily designed, -coarsely executed, and darkened by a gallery which projects into the -room in a very awkward manner. The collection, which consists of above -sixty thousand volumes, is locked up at present in a suite of apartments -which<a name="page_vol_2_2135" id="page_vol_2_2135"></a> opens into the library. Several well preserved and richly -illuminated first editions of the Greek and Roman classics were handed -to me by the father librarian; but my nimble conductor would not allow -me much time to examine them. He set off full speed, and, ascending a -winding staircase, led us out upon the roof of the convent and palace, -which form a broad, smooth terrace, bounded by a magnificent balustrade, -unincumbered by chimneys, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the courts -and garden.</p> - -<p>From this elevation the whole plan of the edifice may be comprehended at -a glance. In the centre rises the dome, like a beautiful temple from the -spacious walks of a royal garden. It is infinitely superior, in point of -design, to the rest of the edifice, and may certainly be reckoned among -the lightest and best proportioned in Europe. Don Pedro and Monsieur -Verdeil proposed scaling a ladder which leads up to the lantern, but I -begged to be excused accompanying them, and amused myself during their -absence with ranging about the extensive loggias, now and then venturing -a look down on the courts and parterres so far below; but<a name="page_vol_2_2136" id="page_vol_2_2136"></a> oftener -enjoying the prospect of the towers shining bright in the sunbeams, and -the azure bloom of the distant sea. A fresh balsamic air wafted from the -orchards of citron and orange, fanned me as I rested on the steps of the -dome, and tempered the warmth of the glowing æther.</p> - -<p>But I was soon driven from this cloudless, peaceful situation, by a -confounded jingle of all the bells; then followed a most complicated -sonata, banged off on the chimes by a great proficient. The Marquis, who -had climbed up on purpose to enjoy this cataract of what some persons -call melodious sounds at its fountainhead, would have me approach to -examine the mechanism, and I was half stunned. I know very little indeed -about chimes and clocks, and am quite at a loss for amusement in a -belfry. My friend, who inherits a mechanical turn from his father, the -renowned patron of clocks and time-pieces, investigated every wheel with -minute attention.</p> - -<p>His survey finished, we descended innumerable stairs, and retired to the -Capitan Mor’s, whose jurisdiction extends over the park and district of -Mafra. He has seven or eight<a name="page_vol_2_2137" id="page_vol_2_2137"></a> thousand crusadoes a year, and his -habitation wears every appearance of comfort and opulence. The floors -are covered with mats of the finest texture, the doors hung with red -damask curtains, and our beds, quite new for the occasion, spread with -satin coverlids richly embroidered and fringed. We had a most luxurious -repast, and a better dessert than even the monks could have given -us—the Capitan Mor taking the dishes from his long train of servants, -and placing them himself on the table, quite in the feudal style.</p> - -<p>After coffee we hurried to vespers in the great church of the convent, -and advancing between the range of illuminated chapels, took our places -in the royal tribune. We were no sooner seated than the monks entered in -procession, preceding their abbot, who ascended his throne, having a row -of sacristans at his feet and canons on his right hand, in their cloth -of gold embroidered vestments. The service was chaunted with the most -imposing solemnity to the awful sound of organs, for there are no fewer -than six in the church, all of an enormous size.</p> - -<p>When it was ended, being once more laid<a name="page_vol_2_2138" id="page_vol_2_2138"></a> hold of by the nimble -lay-brother, we were conducted up a magnificent staircase into the -palace. The suite extends seven or eight hundred feet, and the almost -endless succession of lofty doors seen in perspective, strikes with -astonishment; but we were soon weary of being merely astonished, and -agreed to pronounce the apartments the dullest and most comfortless we -had ever beheld; there is no variety in their shape, and little in their -dimensions. The furniture being all locked up at Lisbon, a naked -sameness universally prevails; not a niche, not a cornice, not a curved -moulding breaks the tedious uniformity of dead white walls.</p> - -<p>I was glad to return to the convent and refresh my eyes with the sight -of marble pillars, and my feet by treading on Persian carpets. We were -followed wherever we moved, into every cell, chapel, hall, passage, or -sacristy, by a strange medley of inquisitive monks, sacristans, -lay-brothers, corregidors, village-curates, and country beaux with long -rapiers and pigtails. If I happened to ask a question, half-a-dozen all -at once poked their necks out to answer it, like turkey-polts when -addressed in their native<a name="page_vol_2_2139" id="page_vol_2_2139"></a> hobble-gobble dialect. The Marquis was quite -sick of being trotted after in this tumultuous manner, and tried several -times to leave the crowd behind him, by taking sudden turns; but -sticking close to our heels, it baffled all his endeavours, and -increased to such a degree, that we seemed to have swept the whole -convent and village of their inhabitants, and to draw them after us by -one of those supernatural attractions we read of in tales and romances.</p> - -<p>At length, perceiving a large door open into the garden, we bolted out, -and striking into a labyrinth of myrtles and laurels, got rid of our -pursuers. The garden, which is about a mile and a half in circumference, -contains, besides wild thickets of pine and bay-trees, several orchards -of lemon and orange, and two or three parterres more filled with weeds -than flowers. I was much disgusted at finding this beautiful inclosure -so wretchedly neglected, and its luxuriant plants withering away for -want of being properly watered.</p> - -<p>You may suppose, that after adding a walk in the principal alleys of the -garden to our other peregrinations, we began to find ourselves<a name="page_vol_2_2140" id="page_vol_2_2140"></a> somewhat -fatigued, and were not sorry to repose ourselves in the Abbot’s -apartment till we were summoned once more to our tribune to hear matins -performed. It was growing dark, and the innumerable tapers burning -before the altars and in every part of the church, began to diffuse a -mysterious light. The organs joined again in full accord, the long -series of monks and novices entered with slow and solemn steps, and the -Abbot resumed his throne with the same pomp as at vespers. The Marquis -began muttering his orisons, the Grand Prior to recite his breviary, and -I to fall into a profound reverie, which lasted as long as the service, -that is to say above two hours. Verdeil, ready to expire with ennui, -could not help leaving the tribune and the cloud of incense which filled -the choir, to breathe a freer air in the body of the church and its -adjoining chapels.</p> - -<p>It was almost nine when the monks, after chaunting a most solemn and -sonorous hymn in praise of their venerable father, Saint Augustine, -quitted the choir. We followed their procession through lofty chapels -and arched cloisters, which by a glimmering light appeared<a name="page_vol_2_2141" id="page_vol_2_2141"></a> to have -neither roof nor termination, till it entered an octagon forty feet in -diameter, with fountains in the four principal angles. The monks, after -dispersing to wash their hands at the several fountains, again resumed -their order, and passed two-and-two under a portal thirty feet high into -a vast hall, communicating with their refectory by another portal of the -same lofty dimensions. Here the procession made a pause, for this -chamber is consecrated to the remembrance of the departed, and styled -the Hall de Profundis. Before every repast, the monks standing round it -in solemn ranks, silently revolve in their minds the precariousness of -our frail existence, and offer up prayers for the salvation of their -predecessors. I could not help being struck with awe when I beheld by -the glow of flaming lamps, so many venerable figures in their black and -white habits bending their eyes on the pavement, and absorbed in the -most interesting and gloomy of meditations.</p> - -<p>The moment allotted to this solemn supplication being passed, every one -took his place at the long tables in the refectory, which are made of -Brazil-wood, and covered with the<a name="page_vol_2_2142" id="page_vol_2_2142"></a> whitest linen. Each monk had his -glass caraffe of water and wine, his plate of apples and salad set -before him; neither fish nor flesh were served up, the vigil of St. -Augustine’s day being observed as a fast with the utmost strictness.</p> - -<p>To enjoy at a glance this singular and majestic spectacle, we retreated -to a vestibule preceding the octagon, and from thence looked through all -the portals down the long row of lamps into the refectory, which, owing -to its vast length of full two hundred feet, seemed ending in a point. -After remaining a few minutes to enjoy this perspective, four monks -advanced with torches to light us out of the convent, and bid us -good-night with many bows and genuflections.</p> - -<p>Our supper at the Capitan Mor’s was very cheerful. We sat up late, -notwithstanding our fatigue, talking over the variety of objects that -had passed before our eyes in so short a space of time, the crowd of -grotesque figures which had stuck to our heels so long and so closely, -and the awkward vivacity of the lay-brother.<a name="page_vol_2_2143" id="page_vol_2_2143"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXIII-port" id="LETTER_XXIII-port"></a>LETTER XXIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">High mass.—Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.—Leave Mafra.—An -accident.—Return to Cintra.—My saloon.—Beautiful view from it.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">August 28th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>WAS</small> half asleep, half awake, when the sonorous bells of the convent -struck my ears. The Marquis and Don Pedro’s voices in earnest -conversation with the Capitan Mor in the adjoining chamber, completely -roused me. We swallowed our coffee in haste; the Grand Prior reluctantly -left his pillow, and accompanied us to high mass. The monks once more -exerted their efforts to prevail on us to dine with them; but we -remained inflexible, and to avoid their importunities hastened away, as -soon as mass was ended, to the Viscount Ponte de Lima’s gardens, where -the deep shade of the bay and ilex skreened us from the excessive heat -of the sun.</p> - -<p>The Marquis, seating himself by me near one<a name="page_vol_2_2144" id="page_vol_2_2144"></a> of those clear and copious -fountains with which this magnificent Italian-looking garden is -refreshed and enlivened, entered into a most serious and semi-official -discourse about my stay in Portugal, and the means which were projecting -in a very high quarter to render it not only pleasant to myself, but of -some importance to many others.</p> - -<p class="cb">* - * - * - * - * - *</p> - -<p>I felt relieved when the appearance of Don Pedro and his uncle, who had -been walking to the end of an immensely long avenue of pines, warded off -a conversation that began to press hard upon me. We returned altogether -to the Capitan Mor’s, and found dinner ready.</p> - -<p>Both Don Pedro and myself were sorry to leave Mafra, and should have had -no objection to another race along the cloisters and dormitories with -the lay-brother. The evening was bright and clear, and the azure tints -of the distant sea inexpressibly lovely. We drove with a tumultuous -rapidity over the rough-paved roads, that the Marquis and I could hardly -hear a word we said to each other. Don Pedro had mounted his horse. -Verdeil, who preceded us in the carinho, seemed to<a name="page_vol_2_2145" id="page_vol_2_2145"></a> outstrip the winds. -His mule, one of the most fiery and gigantic of her species, excited by -repeated floggings and the shout of a hulking Portuguese postilion, -perched up behind the carriage, galloped at an ungovernable rate; and at -about a league from the rocks of Cintra, thought proper to jerk out its -drivers into the midst of some bushes at the foot of a lofty bank, -nearly perpendicular, where they still remained sprawling when we passed -by.</p> - -<p>Verdeil hobbled up to us, and pointed to the carinho in the ditch below. -Except a slight contusion in the knee, he had received no hurt. I -exclaimed immediately, that his escape was miraculous, and that, -doubtless, St. Anthony had some hand in it. My friend, who has always -the horrors of heresy before his eyes, whispered me that the devil had -saved him this time, but might not be so favourably disposed another.</p> - -<p>It was not half-past five, when we reached Cintra. The Marchioness, the -Abade, and the children, were waiting our arrival.</p> - -<p>Feeling my head in a whirl, and my ideas as much jolted and jumbled as -my body, I returned home just before it fell dark, to<a name="page_vol_2_2146" id="page_vol_2_2146"></a> enjoy a few hours -of uninterrupted calm. The scenery of my ample saloon, its air of -seclusion, its silence, seemed to breathe a momentary tranquillity over -my spirits. The mat smoothly laid down, and formed of the finest and -most glossy straw, assumed by candlelight a delightful, soft, and -harmonious colour. It looked so cool and glistening that I stretched -myself upon it. There did I lie supine, contemplating the serene -summer-sky, and the moon rising slowly from behind the brow of a shrubby -hill. A faint breeze blowing aside the curtains, discovered the summit -of the woods in the garden, and beyond, a wide expanse of country, -terminated by plains of sea and hazy promontories.<a name="page_vol_2_2147" id="page_vol_2_2147"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXIV-port" id="LETTER_XXIV-port"></a>LETTER XXIV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.—Amusing -stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.—Cheerful -funeral.—Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">August 29th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was furiously hot, and I trifled away the whole morning in my -pavilion, surrounded by fidalgos in flowered bed-gowns, and musicians in -violet-coloured accoutrements, with broad straw-hats, like bonzes or -talapoins, looking as sunburnt, vacant, and listless, as the inhabitants -of Ormus or Bengal; so that my company as well as my apartment wore the -most decided oriental appearance: the divan raised a few inches above -the floor, the gilt trellis-work of the windows, and the pellucid -streams of water rising from a tank immediately beneath them, supplied -in endless succession by springs from the native rock.<a name="page_vol_2_2148" id="page_vol_2_2148"></a></p> - -<p>An agreeable variety prevails in my Asiatic saloon; half its curtains -admit no light, and display the richest folds; the other half are -transparent, and cast a mild glow on the mat and sofas. Large clear -mirrors multiply this profusion of drapery, and several of my guests -seemed never tired of running from corner to corner, to view the -different groups of objects reflected on all sides in the most -unexpected directions, as if they fancied themselves admitted by -enchantment to peep into a labyrinth of magic chambers.</p> - -<p>One of the party, a very shrewd old Italian priest, who had left his -native land before the too-famous earthquake shook more than the half of -Lisbon to its foundations, told me he remembered an apartment a good -deal in this style, that is to say, bedecked with mirrors and curtains, -in a sort of fairy palace communicating with the Nunnery of Odivellas, -so famous for the pious retirement of that paragon of splendour and -holiness, King John the Fifth. These were delightful days for the -monarch and the fair companions of his devotions.</p> - -<p>“Oh!” said the old priest very judiciously, “of what avail is the finest -cage without birds<a name="page_vol_2_2149" id="page_vol_2_2149"></a> to enliven it? Had you but heard the celestial -harmony of King John’s recluses, you would never have sat down contented -in your fine tent with the squalling of sopranos and the grumbling of -bass-viols. The silver, virgin tones I allude to, proceeding from the -holy recess into which no other male mortal except the monarch was ever -allowed to penetrate, had an effect I still remember with ecstasy, -though at the distance of so many years. Four of our finest singers, two -from Venice and two from Naples, attracted by a truly regal munificence, -added all that the most consummate taste and science could give to the -best voices in Portugal; the result was perfection.”</p> - -<p>Aguilar, who came to dine with us, and whose mother, when in the bloom -of youth and beauty, had been not unfrequently invited to act the part -of perhaps more than audience at these edifying parties, confirmed all -the wonders the old Italian narrated, and added not a few of the same -gold and ruby colour in a strain so extravagantly enthusiastic, that -were I to repeat even half the glittering anecdotes he favoured me with, -upon the subject of Don John the Fifth’s unbounded fervour and -magnificence,<a name="page_vol_2_2150" id="page_vol_2_2150"></a> your imagination would be completely dazzled.</p> - -<p>Just as we had removed from the dinner to the dessert-table, which was -spread out upon a terrace fronting the principal alley of the gardens, -entered the abade Xavier, in full cry, with a rapturous story of the -conversion of an old consumptive Englishwoman, who, it seems, finding -herself upon the eve of departure, had called for a priest, to whom she -might confess, and abjure her errors of every description. Happening to -lodge at the Cintra inn, kept by a most flaming Irish Catholic, her -commendable desires were speedily complied with, and Mascarenhas and -Acciaoli, and two or three other priests and monsignors, summoned to -further the good work.</p> - -<p>“Great,” said the abade, “are our rejoicings upon the occasion. This -very evening the aged innocent is to be buried in triumph: Marialva, San -Lorenzo, Asseca, and several more of the principal nobility are already -assembled to grace the festival; suppose you were to come with me and -join the procession?”</p> - -<p>“With all my heart,” did I reply; “although I have no great taste for -funerals, so<a name="page_vol_2_2151" id="page_vol_2_2151"></a> gay a one as this you talk of may form an exception.”</p> - -<p>Off we set, driving as fast as most excellent mules could carry us, lest -we should come too late for the entertainment. A great mob was assembled -before the door. At one of the windows stood the grand prior, looking as -if he wished himself a thousand leagues away, and reciting his breviary. -I went up-stairs, and was immediately surrounded by the old Conde de San -Lorenzo and other believers, overflowing with congratulations. -Mascarenhas, one of the soundest limbs of the patriarchal establishment, -a capital devotee and seraphic doctor, was introduced to me. Acciaoli, -whom I was before acquainted with, skipped about the room, rubbing his -hands for joy, with a cunning leer on his jovial countenance, and -snapping his fingers at Satan, as much as to say, “I don’t care a d—— -n for you. We have got one at least safe out of your clutches, and clear -at this very moment of the smoke of your cauldron.”</p> - -<p>There was such a bustle in the interior apartment where the wretched -corpse was deposited, such a chaunting and praying, for not a<a name="page_vol_2_2152" id="page_vol_2_2152"></a> tongue -was idle, that my head swam round, and I took refuge by the grand prior. -He by no means relished the party, and kept shrugging up his shoulders, -and saying that it was very edifying—very edifying indeed, and that -Acciaoli had been extremely alert, extremely active, and deserved great -commendation, but that so much fuss might as well have been spared.</p> - -<p>By some hints that dropped, I won’t say from whom, I discovered the -innocent now on the high road to eternal felicity by no means to have -suffered the cup of joy to pass by untasted in this existence, and to -have lived many years on a very easy footing, not only with a stout -English bachelor, but with several others, married and unmarried, of his -particular acquaintance. However, she had taken a sudden tack upon -finding herself driven apace down the tide of a rapid consumption, and -had been fairly towed into port by the joint efforts of the Irish -hostess and the monsignori Mascarenhas and Acciaoli.</p> - -<p>“Thrice happy Englishwoman,” exclaimed M—a, “what luck is thine! In -the next world immediate admission to paradise, and in this<a name="page_vol_2_2153" id="page_vol_2_2153"></a> thy body -will have the proud distinction of being borne to the grave by men of -the highest rank.—Was there ever such felicity?”</p> - -<p>The arrival of a band of priests and sacristans, with tapers lighted and -cross erected, called us to the scene of action. The procession being -marshalled, the corpse, dressed in virgin-white, lying snug in a sort of -rose-coloured bandbox with six silvered handles, was brought forth. -M——, who abhors the sight of a dead body, reddened up to his ears, and -would have given a good sum to make an honourable retreat; but no -retreat could now have been made consistent with piety: he was obliged -to conquer his disgust and take a handle of the bier. Another was placed -in the murderous gripe of the notorious San Vicente; another fell to the -poor old snuffling Conde de San Lorenzo; a fourth to the Viscount -d’Asseca, a mighty simple-looking young gentleman; the fifth and sixth -were allotted to the Capitaô Mor of Cintra, and to the judge, a gaunt -fellow with a hang-dog countenance.</p> - -<p>No sooner did the grand prior catch sight of the ghastly visage of the -dead body as it was being conveyed down-stairs in the manner<a name="page_vol_2_2154" id="page_vol_2_2154"></a> I have -recited, than he made an attempt to move on, and precede instead of -following the procession; but Acciaoli, who acted as master of the -ceremonies, would not let him off so easily: he allotted him the post of -honour immediately at the head of the corpse, and placed himself at his -left hand, giving the right to Mascarenhas. All the bells of Cintra -struck up a cheerful peal, and to their merry jinglings we hurried along -through a dense cloud of dust, a rabble of children frolicking on either -side, and their grandmothers hobbling after, telling their beads, and -grinning from ear to ear at this triumph over the prince of darkness.</p> - -<p>Happily the way to the church was not long, or the dust would have -choked us. The grand prior kept his mouth close not to admit a particle -of it, but Acciaoli and his colleague were too full of their fortunate -exploit not to chatter incessantly. Poor old San Lorenzo, who is fat, -squat, and pursy, gasping for breath, stopped several times to rest on -his journey. Marialva, whom disgust rendered heartily fatigued with his -burthen, was very glad likewise to make a pause or two.</p> - -<p>We found all the altars in the church blazing<a name="page_vol_2_2155" id="page_vol_2_2155"></a> with lights, the grave -gaping for its immaculate inhabitant, and a numerous detachment of -priests and choristers waiting to receive the procession. The moment it -entered, the same hymn which is sung at the interment of babes and -sucklings burst forth from a hundred youthful voices, incense arose in -clouds, and joy and gladness shone in the eyes of the whole -congregation.</p> - -<p>A murmur of applause and congratulation went round anew, those whom it -most concerned receiving with great affability and meekness the -compliments of the occasion. Old San Lorenzo, waddling up to the grand -prior, hugged him in his arms, and strewing him all over with snuff, set -him violently a-sneezing. San Vicente, as soon as the innocent was -safely deposited, retired in a sort of dudgeon, being never rightly at -ease in the presence of his brother-in-law Marialva. As for the latter -warm-hearted nobleman, exultation and triumph carried him beyond all -bounds of decorum. He scoffed bitterly at heretics, represented in their -true colours the actual happiness of the convert, and just as we left -the church, cried out loud enough for all those<a name="page_vol_2_2156" id="page_vol_2_2156"></a> who were near to have -heard him, “<i>Elle se f——iche de nous tous à présent.</i>”</p> - -<p>Their pious toil being ended, Mascarenhas and Acciaoli accompanied us to -the heights of Penha Verde, to breathe a fresh air under the odoriferous -pines: then, returning in our company to Ramalhaô, partook of a nice -collation of iced fruit and sweetmeats, and concluded the evening with -much gratifying discourse about the lively scene we had just witnessed.<a name="page_vol_2_2157" id="page_vol_2_2157"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXV-port" id="LETTER_XXV-port"></a>LETTER XXV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.—Visit to Mrs. -Guildermeester.—Toads active, and toads passive.—The old Consul -and his tray of jewels.</p></div> - -<p>The principal personages who had so piously distinguished themselves -yesterday dined with me this blessed afternoon. Old San Lorenzo has a -prodigious memory and a warm imagination, rendered still more glowing by -a slight touch of madness. He appears perfectly well acquainted with the -general politics of Europe, and though never beyond the limits of -Portugal, gave so circumstantial and plausible a detail of what -occurred, and of the part he himself acted at the congress of -Aix-la-Chapelle, that I was completely his dupe, and believed, until I -was let into the secret, that he had actually witnessed what he only -dreamt of. Notwithstanding the high favour he enjoyed with the infante -Don Pedro, Pombal cast<a name="page_vol_2_2158" id="page_vol_2_2158"></a> him into a dungeon with the other victims of the -Aveiro conspiracy, and for eighteen most melancholy years was his active -mind reduced to prey upon itself for sustenance.</p> - -<p>Upon the present queen’s accession he was released, and found his -intimate friend the Infante sharing the throne; but thinking himself -somewhat coolly received and shabbily neglected, he threw the key of -chamberlain which was sent him into a place of less dignity than -convenience, and retired to the convent of the Necessidades. No means, I -have been assured, were left untried by the king to soothe and flatter -him; but they all proved fruitless. Since this period, though he quitted -the convent, he has never appeared at court, and has refused all -employment. Devotion now absorbs his entire soul. Except when the chord -of imprisonment and Pombal is touched upon, he is calm and reasonable. I -found him extremely so to-day, and full of the most instructive and -amusing anecdote.</p> - -<p>Coffee over, my company having stretched themselves out at full-length -most comfortably, some on the mat, and some on the sofas, to recruit -their spirits I suppose, after the pious<a name="page_vol_2_2159" id="page_vol_2_2159"></a> toils and enthusiastic -procession of the day before, I prevailed upon Marialva to escort me to -Mrs. Guildermeester’s, whom we found in a vast but dingy saloon, her -toads squatting around her. She gave us some excellent tea, and a plain -sensible loaf of brown bread, accompanied by delicious butter, just -fresh from a genuine Dutch dairy, conducted upon the most immaculate -Dutch principles. Donna Genuefa, the toad-passive in waiting, is a -little jossish old woman, with a head as round as a humming-top, and a -large placid lip, very smiling and good-natured. Miss Coster, the -toad-active, has been rather pretty a few years ago, makes tea with -decorum, shuts doors and opens windows with judgment, and has a good -deal to say for herself when allowed to sit still on her chair.</p> - -<p>We had scarcely begun complimenting the mistress of the house upon the -complete success of her cow-establishment, when the old consul her -spouse entered, with many bows and salutations, bearing a huge japan -tray, upon which was spread out in glittering profusion an ample -treasure, both of rough and well-lapidated brilliants, the fruits of his -famous and most lucrative<a name="page_vol_2_2160" id="page_vol_2_2160"></a> contract in the days of Pombal. Some of the -largest diamonds, in superb though heavy Dutch or German settings, he -eagerly desired Marialva would recommend to the attention of the queen, -and whispered in my ear that he hoped I also would speak a good word for -him. I remained as deaf as an adder, and the Marquis as blind as a -beetle, to the splendour of the display; so he returned once more to his -interior cabinet, with all his hopes out of blossom, and we moved off.</p> - -<p>Evening was drawing on, and a drizzling mist overspreading the crags of -Cintra. It did not, however, prevent us from going to Mr. Horne’s. We -passed under arching elms and chesnuts, whose moistened foliage exhaled -a fresh woody odour. High above the vapours, which were rolling away -just as we emerged from the shady avenue, appeared the turret of the -convent of the Penha, faintly tinted by the last rays of the sun, and -looking down, like the ark on Mount Ararat, on a sea of undulating -clouds.</p> - -<p>At Horne’s, Aguilar, Bezerra, and the usual set were assembled. The -Marquis, as soon as he had made his condescending bows to the right<a name="page_vol_2_2161" id="page_vol_2_2161"></a> and -left, retired to his villa, and I took Horne in my chaise to Mrs. -Staits, a little slender-waisted, wild-eyed woman, by no means -unpleasing or flinty-hearted. It was her birthday, and she had -congregated most of the English at Cintra, in a damp garden about -seventy feet long by thirty-two, illuminated by thirty or forty -lanterns. Mrs. Guildermeester was there, covered with diamonds, and -sparkling like a star in the midst of this murky atmosphere. We had a -cold funereal supper, under a low tent in imitation of a grotto.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Staits’ well-disposed, easy-tempered husband placed me next Mrs. -Guildermeester, who amused herself tolerably well at the expense of the -entertainment. The dingy, subterraneous appearance of the booth, the wan -light of the lanterns sparingly scattered along it, and the fragrance of -a dish of rather mature prawns placed under my nose, seized me with the -idea of being dead and buried. “Alas!” said I to my fair neighbour, “it -is all over with us now, and this our first banquet in the infernal -regions; we are all equal and jumbled together. There sits the pious -presbyterian Mrs. Fussock, with that bridling miss her<a name="page_vol_2_2162" id="page_vol_2_2162"></a> daughter, and -close to them those adulterous doves, Mr. —— and his sultana. Here am -I, miserable sinner, right opposite your righteous and much enduring -spouse; a little lower our kind host, that pattern of conjugal meekness -and resignation. Hark! don’t you hear a lumbering noise? They are -letting down a cargo of heavy bodies into a neighbouring tomb.”</p> - -<p>In this strain did we continue till the subject was exhausted, and it -was time to take our departure.<a name="page_vol_2_2163" id="page_vol_2_2163"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXVI-port" id="LETTER_XXVI-port"></a>LETTER XXVI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.—Duke -d’Alafoins.—Excursion to a rustic Fair.—Revels of the -Peasantry.—Night-scene at the Marialva Villa.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sept. 10th, 1787.</p> - -<p>A<small>DIEU</small> to the tranquillity of Cintra, we shall soon have nothing but -hubbub and confusion. The queen is on the point of arriving with all her -maids of honour, secretaries of state, dwarfs, negresses and horses, -white, black, and pie-bald. Half the quintas around will be dried up, -military possession having been taken of the aqueducts, and their waters -diverted into new channels for the use of an encampment.</p> - -<p>I was walking in a long arched bower of citron-trees, when M—— -appeared at the end of the avenue, accompanied by the duke d’Alafoins. -This is the identical personage well-known in every part of Europe by -the appellation<a name="page_vol_2_2164" id="page_vol_2_2164"></a> of Duke of Braganza. He has no right however, to wear -that illustrious title, which is merged in the crown. Were he called -Duchess Dowager, of anything you please, I think nobody would dispute -the propriety of his style, he being so like an old lady of the -bed-chamber, so fiddle-faddle and so coquettish. He had put on rouge and -patches, and though he has seen seventy winters, contrived to turn on -his heel and glide about with juvenile agility.</p> - -<p>I was much surprised at the ease of his motions, having been told that -he was a martyr to the gout. After lisping French with a most refined -accent, complaining of the sun, and the roads, and the state of -architecture, he departed, (thank heaven!) to mark out a spot for the -encampment of the cavalry, which are to guard the queen’s sacred person -during her residence in these mountains. M—— was in duty bound to -accompany him; but left his son and his nephews, the heirs of the House -of Tancos, to dine with me.</p> - -<p>In the evening, Verdeil, tired with sauntering about the verandas, -proposed a ride to a neighbouring village, where there was a fair.<a name="page_vol_2_2165" id="page_vol_2_2165"></a> He -and Don Pedro mounted their horses, and preceded the young Tancos and me -in a garden-chair, drawn by a most resolute mule. The roads are -abominable, and lay partly along the sloping base of the Cintra -mountains, which in the spring, no doubt, are clothed with a tolerable -verdure, but at this season every blade of grass is parched and -withered. Our carriage-wheels, as we drove sideling along these slippery -declivities, pressed forth the odour of innumerable aromatic herbs, half -pulverized. Thicknesse perhaps would have said, in his original quaint -style, that nature was treating us with a pinch of her best cephalic. No -snuff, indeed, ever threw me into a more violent fit of sneezing.</p> - -<p>I could hardly keep up my head when we arrived at the fair, which is -held on a pleasant lawn, bounded on one side by the picturesque -buildings of a convent of Hieronimites, and on the other by rocky hills, -shattered into a variety of uncouth romantic forms; one cliff in -particular, called the Pedra d’os Ovos, terminated by a cross, crowns -the assemblage, and exhibits a very grotesque appearance. Behind the -convent a thick shrubbery of olives, ilex,<a name="page_vol_2_2166" id="page_vol_2_2166"></a> and citron, fills up a small -valley refreshed by fountains, whose clear waters are conducted through -several cloisters and gardens, surrounded by low marble columns, -supporting fretted arches in the morisco style.</p> - -<p>The peasants assembled at the fair were scattered over the lawn; some -conversing with the monks, others half intoxicated, sliding off their -donkeys and sprawling upon the ground; others bargaining for silk-nets -and spangled rings, to bestow on their mistresses. The monks, who were -busily employed in administering all sorts of consolations, spiritual -and temporal, according to their respective ages and vocations, happily -paid us no kind of attention, so we escaped being stuffed with -sweetmeats, and worried with compliments.</p> - -<p>At sunset we returned to Ramalhaô, and drank tea in its lantern-like -saloon, in which are no less than eleven glazed doors and windows of -large dimensions. The winds were still; the air balsamic; and the sky of -so soft an azure that we could not remain with patience under any other -canopy, but stept once more into our curricles and drove as far as the<a name="page_vol_2_2167" id="page_vol_2_2167"></a> -Dutch consul’s new building, by the mingled light of innumerable stars.</p> - -<p>It was after ten when we got back to the Marialva villa, and long before -we reached it, we heard the plaintive tones of voices and wind -instruments issuing from the thickets. On the margin of the principal -basin sat the marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, and a numerous group of -their female attendants, many of them most graceful figures, and -listening with all their hearts and souls to the rehearsal of some very -delightful music with which her majesty is to be serenaded a few -evenings hence.</p> - -<p>It was one of those serene and genial nights when music acquires a -double charm, and opens the heart to tender, though melancholy -impressions. Not a leaf rustled, not a breath of wind disturbed the -clear flame of the lights which had been placed near the fountains, and -which just served to make them visible. The waters, flowing in rills -round the roots of the lemon-trees, formed a rippling murmur; and in the -pauses of the concert, no other sound except some very faint whisperings -was to be<a name="page_vol_2_2168" id="page_vol_2_2168"></a> distinguished, so that the enchantment of climate, music, and -mystery, all contributed to throw my mind into a sort of trance from -which I was not roused again without a degree of painful reluctance.<a name="page_vol_2_2169" id="page_vol_2_2169"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXVII-port" id="LETTER_XXVII-port"></a>LETTER XXVII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.—Singular -invitation.—Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.—Hilarity and -shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">September 12th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>WAS</small> hardly up before the grand prior and Mr. Street were announced: -the latter abusing kings, queens, and princes, with all his might, and -roaring after liberty and independence; the former complaining of fogs -and damps.</p> - -<p>As soon as the advocate for republicanism had taken his departure, we -went by appointment to the archbishop confessor’s, and were immediately -admitted into his <i>sanctum sanctorum</i>, a snug apartment communicating by -a winding staircase with that of the queen, and hung with bright, lively -tapestry. A lay-brother, fat, round, buffoonical, and to the full<a name="page_vol_2_2170" id="page_vol_2_2170"></a> as -coarse and vulgar as any carter or muleteer in christendom, entertained -us with some very amusing, though not the most decent, palace stories, -till his patron came forth.</p> - -<p>Those who expect to see the Grand Inquisitor of Portugal, a doleful, -meagre figure, with eyes of reproof and malediction, would be -disappointed. A pleasanter or more honest countenance than that kind -heaven has blessed him with, one has seldom the comfort of looking upon. -He received me in the most open, cordial manner, and I have reason to -think I am in mighty favour.</p> - -<p>We talked about archbishops in England being married. “Pray,” said the -prelate, “are not your archbishops strange fellows? consecrated in -ale-houses, and good bottle companions? I have been told that mad-cap -Lord Tyrawley was an archbishop at home.” You may imagine how much I -laughed at this inconceivable nonsense; and though I cannot say, -speaking of his right reverence, that “truths divine came mended from -his tongue,” it may be allowed, that nonsense itself became more -conspicuously nonsensical, flowing from so revered a source.<a name="page_vol_2_2171" id="page_vol_2_2171"></a></p> - -<p>Whilst we sat in the windows of the saloon, listening to a band of -regimental music, we saw Joaô Antonio de Castro, the ingenious -mechanician, who invented the present method of lighting Lisbon, two or -three solemn dominicans, and a famous court fool<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> in a tawdry -gala-suit, bedizened with mock orders, coming up the steps which lead to -the great audience-chamber, all together. “Ay, ay,” said the -lay-brother, who is a shrewd, comical fellow, “behold a true picture of -our customers. Three sorts of persons find their way most readily into -this palace; men of superior abilities, buffoons, and saints; the first -soon lose what cleverness they possessed, the saints become martyrs, and -the buffoons alone prosper.”</p> - -<p>To all this the Archbishop gave his hearty assent by a very significant -nod of the head; and being, as I have already told you, in a most -gracious, communicative disposition, would not permit me to go away, -when I rose up to take leave of him.</p> - -<p>“No, no,” said he, “don’t think of quitting me yet awhile. Let us repair -to the hall of Swans, where all the court are waiting for me,<a name="page_vol_2_2172" id="page_vol_2_2172"></a> and pray -tell me then what you think of our great fidalgos.”</p> - -<p>Taking me by the tip of the fingers he led me along through a number of -shady rooms and dark passages to a private door, which opened from the -queen’s presence-chamber, into a vast saloon, crowded, I really believe, -by half the dignitaries of the kingdom; here were bishops, heads of -orders, secretaries of state, generals, lords of the bedchamber, and -courtiers of all denominations, as fine and as conspicuous as -embroidered uniforms, stars, crosses, and gold keys could make them.</p> - -<p>The astonishment of this group at our sudden apparition was truly -laughable, and indeed, no wonder; we must have appeared on the point of -beginning a minuet—the portly archbishop in his monastic, flowing white -drapery, spreading himself out like a turkey in full pride, and myself -bowing and advancing in a sort of <i>pas-grave</i>, blinking all the while -like an owl in sunshine, thanks to my rapid transition from darkness to -the most glaring daylight.</p> - -<p>Down went half the party upon their knees,<a name="page_vol_2_2173" id="page_vol_2_2173"></a> some with petitions and some -with memorials; those begging for places and promotions, and these for -benedictions, of which my revered conductor was by no means prodigal. He -seemed to treat all these eager demonstrations of fawning servility with -the most contemptuous composure, and pushing through the crowd which -divided respectfully to give us passage, beckoned the Viscount Ponte de -Lima, the Marquis of Lavradio, the Count d’Obidos, and two or three of -the lords in waiting, into a mean little room, not above twenty by -fourteen.</p> - -<p>After a deal of adulatory complimentation in a most subdued tone from -the circle of courtiers, for which they had got nothing in return but -rebuffs and gruntling, the Archbishop drew his chair close to mine, and -said with a very distinct and audible pronunciation, “My dear -Englishman, these are all a parcel of flattering scoundrels, do not -believe one word they say to you. Though they glitter like gold, mud is -not meaner—I know them well. Here,” continued he, holding up the flap -of my coat, “is a proof of English prudence, this little button to -secure the pocket is a precious contrivance,<a name="page_vol_2_2174" id="page_vol_2_2174"></a> especially in grand -company, do not leave it off, do not adopt any of our fashions, or you -will repent it.”</p> - -<p>This sally of wit was received with the most resigned complacency by -those who had inspired it, and, staring with all my eyes, and listening -with all my ears, I could hardly credit either upon seeing the most -complaisant gesticulations, and hearing the most abject protestations of -devoted attachment to his right reverence’s sacred person from all the -company.</p> - -<p>There is no saying how long this tide of adulation would have continued -pouring on, if it had not been interrupted by a message from the queen, -commanding the confessor’s immediate attendance. Giving his garments a -hearty shake, he trudged off bawling out to me over his shoulder, “I -shall be back in half-an-hour, and you must dine with me.“—“Dine with -him!” exclaimed the company in chorus: “such an honour never befel any -one of us; how fortunate! how distinguished you are!”</p> - -<p>Now, I must confess, I was by no means enchanted with this most peculiar -invitation; I had a much pleasanter engagement at Penha-Verde, one of -the coolest and most romantic<a name="page_vol_2_2175" id="page_vol_2_2175"></a> spots in all this poetic district, and -felt no vocation to be cooped up in a close bandboxical apartment, -smelling of paint and varnish enough to give the head-ache; however, -there was no getting off. I was told that I must obey, for everybody in -these regions, high or low, the royal family themselves not excepted, -obeyed the archbishop, and that I ought to esteem myself too happy in so -agreeable an opportunity.</p> - -<p>It would be only repeating what is known to every one, who knows any -thing of courts and courtiers, were I to add the flowery speeches, the -warm encomiums, I received from the finest feathered birds of this covey -upon my own transcendant perfections, and those of my host that was to -be. The half-hour, which, by-the-by, was more than three-quarters, -scarcely sufficed for half those very people had to say in my -commendation, who, a few days ago, were all reserve and indifference, if -I happened to approach them. My summons to this envied repast was -conveyed to me by no less a personage than the Marquis of M——, who, -with gladsome surprise in all his gestures, whispered me, “I am to be of -the<a name="page_vol_2_2176" id="page_vol_2_2176"></a> party too, the first time in my life I can assure you; not a -creature besides is to be admitted; for my uncle is gone home tired of -waiting for you.”</p> - -<p>We knocked at the private door, which was immediately opened, and -following the same passages through which I had been before conducted, -emerged into an ante-chamber looking into a very neat little kitchen, -where the lay-brother, with his sleeves tucked up to his shoulders, was -making hospitable preparation. A table with three covers was prepared in -the tapestry-room, and upon a sofa, in the corner of it, sat the -omnipotent prelate wrapped up in an old snuff-coloured great coat, sadly -patched and tattered.</p> - -<p>“Come,” said he, clapping his hands after the oriental fashion, “serve -up and let us be merry—oh, these women, these women, above stairs, what -a plague it is to settle their differences! Who knows better than you, -Marquis, what enigmas they are to unriddle? I dare say the Englishman’s -archbishops have not half such puzzles to get over as I have: well, let -us see what we have got for you.”</p> - -<p>Entered the lay-brother with three <a name="page_vol_2_2177" id="page_vol_2_2177"></a>roasting-pigs, on a huge tray of -massive silver, and an enormous pillau, as admirable in quality as in -size; and so it had need to have been, for in these two dishes consisted -our whole dinner. I am told the fare at the Archbishop’s table never -varies, and roasting-pigs succeed roasting-pigs, and pillaus pillaus, -throughout all the vicissitudes of the seasons, except on certain -peculiar fast-days of supreme meagre.</p> - -<p>The simplicity of this part of our entertainment was made up by the -profusion and splendour of our dessert, which exceeded in variety of -fruits and sweetmeats any one of which I had ever partaken. As to the -wines, they were admirable, the tribute of every part of the Portuguese -dominions offered up at this holy shrine. The Port Company, who are just -soliciting the renewal of their charter, had contributed the choicest -produce of their happiest vintages, and as I happened to commend its -peculiar excellence, my hospitable entertainer, whose good-humour seemed -to acquire every instant a livelier glow, insisted upon my accepting -several pipes of it, which were punctually sent me the next morning. The -Archbishop became quite jovial, and supposing I was not more insensible<a name="page_vol_2_2178" id="page_vol_2_2178"></a> -to the joys of convivial potations than many of my countrymen, plied me -as often and as waggishly as if I had been one of his imaginary -archbishops, or Lord Tyrawley himself, returned from those cold -precincts where no dinners are given or bottle circulated.</p> - -<p>The lay-brother was such a fountain of anecdote, the Archbishop in such -glee, and Marialva in such jubilation at being admitted to this -confidential party, that it is impossible to say how long it would have -lasted, had not the hour of her Majesty’s evening excursion approached, -and the Archbishop been called to accompany her. As Master of the Horse, -the Marquis could not dispense with his attendance, so I was left under -the guidance of the lay-brother, who, leading me through another -labyrinth of passages, opened a kind of wicket door, and let me out with -as little ceremony as he would have turned a goose adrift on a common.<a name="page_vol_2_2179" id="page_vol_2_2179"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXVIII-port" id="LETTER_XXVIII-port"></a>LETTER XXVIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Explore the Cintra Mountains.—Convent of Nossa Senhora da -Penha.—Moorish Ruins.—The Cork Convent.—The Rock of -Lisbon.—Marine Scenery.—Susceptible imagination of the Ancients -exemplified.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sept. 19th, 1787.</p> - -<p>N<small>EVER</small> did I behold so fine a day, or a sky of such lovely azure. The -M—— were with me by half-past six, and we rode over wild hills, which -command a great extent of apparently desert country; for the villages, -if there are any, are concealed in ravines and hollows.</p> - -<p>Intending to explore the Cintra mountains from one extremity to the -other of the range, we placed relays at different stations. Our first -object was the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha, the little romantic -pile of white buildings I had seen glittering from afar when I first -sailed by the coast of Lisbon. From this pyramidical elevation the view -is boundless: you<a name="page_vol_2_2180" id="page_vol_2_2180"></a> look immediately down upon an immense expanse of sea, -the vast, unlimited Atlantic. A long series of detached clouds of a -dazzling whiteness, suspended low over the waves, had a magic effect, -and in pagan times might have appeared, without any great stretch of -fancy, the cars of marine divinities just risen from the bosom of their -element.</p> - -<p>There was nothing very interesting in the objects immediately around us. -The Moorish remains in the neighbourhood of the convent are scarcely -worth notice, and indeed seem never to have made part of any -considerable edifice. They were probably built up with the dilapidations -of a Roman temple, whose constructors had perhaps in their turn availed -themselves of the fragments of a Punic or Tyrian fane raised on this -high place, and blackened with the smoke of some horrible sacrifice.</p> - -<p>Amidst the crevices of the mouldering walls, and particularly in the -vault of a cistern, which seems to have served both as a reservoir and a -bath, I noticed some capillaries and polypodiums of infinite delicacy; -and on a little flat space before the convent a numerous tribe of -pinks,<a name="page_vol_2_2181" id="page_vol_2_2181"></a> gentians, and other alpine plants, fanned and invigorated by the -pure mountain air. These refreshing breezes, impregnated with the -perfume of innumerable aromatic herbs and flowers, seemed to infuse new -life into my veins, and, with it, an almost irresistible impulse to fall -down and worship in this vast temple of Nature the source and cause of -existence.</p> - -<p>As we had a very extensive ride in contemplation, I could not remain -half so long as I wished on this aërial and secluded summit. Descending -by a tolerably easy road, which wound amongst the rocks in many an -irregular curve, we followed for several miles a narrow tract over the -brow of savage and desolate eminences, to the Cork convent, which -answered exactly, at the first glance we caught of it, the picture one -represents to one’s self of the settlement of Robinson Crusoe. Before -the entrance, formed of two ledges of ponderous rock, extends a smooth -level of greensward, browsed by cattle, whose tinkling bells filled me -with recollections of early days passed amongst wild and alpine scenery. -The Hermitage,<a name="page_vol_2_2182" id="page_vol_2_2182"></a> its cells, chapel, and refectory, are all scooped out of -the native marble, and lined with the bark of the cork-tree. Several of -the passages about it are not only roofed, but floored with the same -material, extremely soft and pleasant to the feet. The shrubberies and -garden plats, dispersed amongst the mossy rocks which lie about in the -wildest confusion, are delightful, and I took great pleasure in -exploring their nooks and corners, following the course of a -transparent, gurgling rill, which is conducted through a rustic -water-shoot, between bushes of lavender and rosemary of the tenderest -green.</p> - -<p>The Prior of this romantic retirement is appointed by the Marialvas, and -this very day his installation takes place, so we were pressed to dine -with him upon the occasion, and could not refuse; but as it was still -very early, we galloped on, intending to visit a famous cliff, the Pedra -d’Alvidrar, which composes one of the most striking features of that -renowned promontory the Rock of Lisbon.</p> - -<p>Our road led us through the skirts of the woods which surround the -delightful village of Collares, to another range of barren eminences<a name="page_vol_2_2183" id="page_vol_2_2183"></a> -extending along the sea-shore. I advanced to the very margin of the -cliff, which is of great height, and nearly perpendicular. A rabble of -boys followed at the heels of our horses, and five stout lads, detached -from this posse, descended with the most perfect unconcern the dreadful -precipice. One in particular walked down with his arms expanded, like a -being of a superior order. The coast is truly picturesque, and consists -of bold projections, intermixed with pyramidical rocks succeeding each -other in theatrical perspective, the most distant crowned by a lofty -tower, which serves as a lighthouse.</p> - -<p>No words can convey an adequate idea of the bloom of the atmosphere, and -the silvery light reflected from the sea. From the edge of the abyss, -where I had remained several minutes like one spell-bound, we descended -a winding path, about half a mile, to the beach. Here we found ourselves -nearly shut in by shattered cliffs and grottos, a fantastic -amphitheatre, the best calculated that can possibly be imagined to -invite the sports of sea nymphs. Such coves, such deep and broken -recesses, such a play of outline I never beheld, nor did<a name="page_vol_2_2184" id="page_vol_2_2184"></a> I ever hear so -powerful a roar of rushing waters upon any other coast. No wonder the -warm and susceptible imagination of the ancients, inflamed by the -scenery of the place, led them to believe they distinguished the conchs -of tritons sounding in these retired caverns; nay, some grave -Lusitanians positively declared they had not only heard, but seen them, -and despatched a messenger to the Emperor Tiberius to announce the -event, and congratulate him upon so evident and auspicious a -manifestation of divinity.</p> - -<p>The tide was beginning to ebb, and allowed us, not without some risk -however, to pass into a cavern of surprising loftiness, the sides of -which were incrusted with beautiful limpets, and a variety of small -shells grouped together. Against some rude and porous fragments, not far -from the aperture through which we had crept, the waves swell with -violence, rush into the air, form instantaneous canopies of foam, then -fall down in a thousand trickling rills of silver. The flickering gleams -of light thrown upon irregular arches admitting into darker and more -retired grottos, the mysterious, watery gloom, the echoing murmurs and<a name="page_vol_2_2185" id="page_vol_2_2185"></a> -almost musical sounds, occasioned by the conflict of winds and waters, -the strong odour of an atmosphere composed of saline particles, produced -altogether such a bewildering effect upon the senses, that I can easily -conceive a mind, poetically given, might be thrown into that kind of -tone which inclines to the belief of supernatural appearances. I am not -surprised, therefore, at the credulity of the ancients, and only wonder -my own imagination did not deceive me in a similar manner.</p> - -<p>If solitude could have induced the Nereids to have vouchsafed me an -apparition, it was not wanting, for all my company had separated upon -different pursuits, and had left me entirely to myself. During the full -half-hour I remained shut out from the breathing world, one solitary -corvo marino was the only living creature I caught sight of, perched -upon an insulated rock, about fifty paces from the opening of the -cavern.</p> - -<p>I was so stunned with the complicated sounds and murmurs which filled my -ears, that it was some moments before I could distinguish the voices of -Verdeil and Don Pedro, who were just returned from a hunt after -seaweeds<a name="page_vol_2_2186" id="page_vol_2_2186"></a> and madrapores, calling me loudly to mount on horseback, and -make the best of our way to rejoin the Marquis and his attendants, all -gone to mass at the Cork convent. Happily, the little detached clouds we -had seen from the high point of Nossa Senhora da Penha, instead of -melting into the blue sky, had been gathering together, and skreened us -from the sun. We had therefore a delightful ride, and upon alighting -from our palfreys found the old abade just arrived with Luis de Miranda, -the colonel of the Cascais regiment, surrounded by a whole synod of -monks, as picturesque as bald pates and venerable beards could make -them.</p> - -<p>As soon as the Marquis came forth from his devotions, dinner was served -up exactly in the style one might have expected at Mequinez or -Morocco—pillaus of different kinds, delicious quails, and pyramids of -rice tinged with saffron. Our dessert, in point of fruits and -sweetmeats, was most luxurious, nor would Pomona herself have been -ashamed of carrying in her lap such peaches and nectarines as rolled in -profusion about the table.</p> - -<p>The abade seemed animated after dinner by the spirit of contradiction, -and would not<a name="page_vol_2_2187" id="page_vol_2_2187"></a> allow the Marquis or Luis de Miranda to know more about -the court of John the Fifth, than of that of Pharaoh, king of Egypt.</p> - -<p>To avoid being stunned by the clamours of the dispute, in which two or -three monks with stentorian voices began to take part most vehemently, -Don Pedro, Verdeil, and I climbed up amongst the hanging shrubberies of -arbutus, bay, and myrtle, to a little platform carpeted with delicate -herbage, exhaling a fresh, aromatic perfume upon the slightest pressure. -There we sat, lulled by the murmur of distant waves, breaking over the -craggy shore we had visited in the morning. The clouds came slowly -sailing over the hills. My companions pounded the cones of the pines, -and gave me the kernels, which have an agreeable almond taste.</p> - -<p>The evening was far advanced before we abandoned our peaceful, -sequestered situation, and joined the Marquis, who had not been yet able -to appease the abade. The vociferous old man made so many appeals to the -father-guardian of the convent in defence of his opinions, that I -thought we never should have got away. At length we departed, and after<a name="page_vol_2_2188" id="page_vol_2_2188"></a> -wandering about in clouds and darkness for two hours, reached Cintra -exactly at ten. The Marchioness and the children had been much alarmed -at our long absence, and rated the abade severely for having occasioned -it.<a name="page_vol_2_2189" id="page_vol_2_2189"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXIX-port" id="LETTER_XXIX-port"></a>LETTER XXIX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Excursion to Penha Verde.—Resemblance of that Villa to the -edifices in Gaspar Poussin’s landscapes.—The ancient pine-trees, -said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.—The old forests -displaced by gaudy terraces.—Influx of Visiters.—A celebrated -Prior’s erudition and strange anachronisms.—The Beast in the -Apocalypse.—Œcolampadius.—Bevy of Palace damsels.—Fête at the -Marialva Villa.—The Queen and the Royal Family.—A favourite dwarf -Negress.—Dignified manner of the Queen.—Profound respect inspired -by her presence.—Rigorous etiquette.—Grand display of -Fireworks.—The young Countess of Lumiares.—Affecting resemblance.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">September 22nd, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>HEN</small> I got up, the mists were stealing off the hills, and the distant -sea discovering itself in all its azure bloom. Though I had been led to -expect many visiters of importance from Lisbon, the morning was so -inviting that I could not resist riding out after breakfast, even at the -risk of not being present at their arrival.<a name="page_vol_2_2190" id="page_vol_2_2190"></a></p> - -<p>I took the road to Collares, and found the air delightfully soft and -fragrant. Some rain which had lately fallen, had refreshed the whole -face of the country, and tinged the steeps beyond Penha Verde with -purple and green; for the numerous tribe of heaths had started into -blossom, and the little irregular lawns, overhung by crooked cork-trees, -which occur so frequently by the way-side, are now covered with large -white lilies streaked with pink.</p> - -<p>Penha Verde itself is a lovely spot. The villa, with its low, flat -roofs, and a loggia projecting at one end, exactly resembles the -edifices in Gaspar Poussin’s landscapes. Before one of the fronts is a -square parterre with a fountain in the middle, and niches in the walls -with antique busts. Above these walls a variety of trees and shrubs rise -to a great elevation, and compose a mass of the richest foliage. The -pines, which, by their bright-green colour, have given the epithet of -verdant to this rocky point (Penha Verde), are as picturesque as those I -used to admire so warmly in the Negroni garden at Rome, and full as -ancient, perhaps more so: tradition assures us they were planted by the -far-famed Don John de Castro,<a name="page_vol_2_2191" id="page_vol_2_2191"></a> whose heart reposes in a small marble -chapel beneath their shade.</p> - -<p>How often must that heroic heart, whilst it still beat in one of the -best and most magnanimous of human bosoms, have yearned after this calm -retirement! Here, at least, did it promise itself that rest so cruelly -denied him by the blind perversities of his ungrateful countrymen: for -his had been an arduous contest, a long and agonizing struggle, not only -in the field under a burning sun, and in the face of peril and death, -but in sustaining the glory and good fame of Portugal against court -intrigues, and the vile cabals of envious, domestic enemies.</p> - -<p>These scenes, though still enchanting, have most probably undergone -great changes since his days. The deep forests we read of have -disappeared, and with them many a spring they fostered. Architectural -fountains, gaudy terraces, and regular stripes of orange-gardens, have -usurped the place of those wild orchards and gushing rivulets he may be -supposed to have often visited in his dreams, when removed some thousand -leagues from his native country. All these are changed; but mankind are -the<a name="page_vol_2_2192" id="page_vol_2_2192"></a> same as in his time, equally insensible to the warning voice of -genuine patriotism, equally disposed to crouch under the rod of corrupt -tyranny. And thus, by the neglect of wise and virtuous men, and a mean -subserviency to knavish fools, eras which might become of gold, are -transmuted by an accursed alchymy into iron rusted with blood.</p> - -<p>Impressed with all the recollections this most interesting spot could -not fail to inspire, I could hardly tear myself away from it. Again and -again did I follow the mossy steps, which wind up amongst shady rocks to -the little platform, terminated by the sepulchral chapel—</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i2">“——densis quam pinus opacat<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Frondibus et nulla lucos agitante procella<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Stridula coniferis modulatur carmina ramis.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>You must not wonder then, that I was haunted the whole way home by these -mysterious whisperings, nor that, in such a tone of mind, I saw with no -great pleasure a procession of two-wheeled chaises, the lord knows how -many out-riders, and a caravan of bouras, marching up to the gate of my -villa. I had, indeed, been prepared to expect a very considerable influx -of visiters; but this was a deluge.<a name="page_vol_2_2193" id="page_vol_2_2193"></a></p> - -<p>Do not let me send you a catalogue of the company, lest you should be as -much annoyed with the detail, as I was with such a formidable arrival -<i>en masse</i>. Let it suffice to name two of the principal characters, the -old pious Conde de San Lorenzo, and the prior of San Juliaô, one of the -archbishop’s prime favourites, and a person of great worship. Mortier’s -Dutch bible happening to lie upon the table, they began tumbling over -the leaves in an egregiously awkward manner. I, who abhor seeing books -thumbed, and prints demonstrated by the close application of a greasy -fore-finger, snapped at the old Conde, and cast an evil look at the -prior, who was leaning his whole priestly weight on the volume, and -creasing its corners.</p> - -<p>My musicians were in full song, and Pedro Grua, a capital violoncello, -exerted his abilities in his best style; but San Lorenzo was too -pathetically engaged in deploring the massacre of the Innocents to pay -him any attention, and his reverend companion had entered into a -long-winded dissertation upon parables, miracles, and martyrdom, from -which I prayed in vain the Lord to deliver me. Verdeil, scenting<a name="page_vol_2_2194" id="page_vol_2_2194"></a> from -afar the saintly flavour of the discourse, stole off.</p> - -<p>I cannot say much in praise of the prior’s erudition, even in holy -matters, for he positively affirmed that it was Henry the Eighth -himself, who knocked St. Thomas à Becket’s brains out, and that by the -beast in the Apocalypse, Luther was positively indicated. I hate -wrangles, and had it not been for the soiling of my prints, should never -have contradicted his reverence; but as I was a little out of humour, I -lowered him somewhat in the Conde’s opinion, by stating the real period -of St. Thomas’s murder, and by tolerably specious arguments, shoving the -beast’s horns off Luther, and clapping them tight upon—whom do you -think?—Œcolampadius! So grand a name, which very probably they had -never heard pronounced in their lives, carried all before it, (adding -another instance of the triumph of sound over sense,) and settled our -bickerings.</p> - -<p>We sat down, I believe, full thirty to dinner, and had hardly got -through the dessert, when Berti came in to tell me that Madame Ariaga, -and a bevy of the palace damsels, were prancing about the quinta on -palfreys and bouras. I<a name="page_vol_2_2195" id="page_vol_2_2195"></a> hastened to join them. There was Donna Maria do -Carmo, and Donna Maria da Penha, with her hair flowing about her -shoulders, and her large beautiful eyes looking as wild and roving as -those of an antelope. I called for my horse, and galloped through alleys -and citron bushes, brushing off leaves, fruit, and blossoms. Every -breeze wafted to us the sound of French horns and oboes. The ladies -seemed to enjoy the freedom and novelty of this scamper prodigiously, -and to regret the short time it was doomed to last; for at seven they -are obliged to return to strict attendance on the Queen, and had some -strange fairy-tale metamorphosis into a pumpkin or a cucumber been the -penalty of disobedience, they could not have shown more alarm or anxiety -when the fatal hour of seven drew near. Luckily, they had not far to go, -for her Majesty and the Royal Family were all assembled at the Marialva -villa, to partake of a splendid merenda and see fireworks.</p> - -<p>As soon as it fell dark Verdeil and I set forth to catch a glimpse of -the royal party. The Grand Prior and Don Pedro conducted us mysteriously -into a snug boudoir which looks into the great pavilion, whose gay, -fantastic<a name="page_vol_2_2196" id="page_vol_2_2196"></a> scenery appeared to infinite advantage by the light of -innumerable tapers reflected on all sides from lustres of glittering -crystal. The little Infanta Donna Carlotta was perched on a sofa in -conversation with the Marchioness and Donna Henriquetta, who, in the -true oriental fashion, had placed themselves cross-legged on the floor. -A troop of maids of honour, commanded by the Countess of Lumieres, sat -in the same posture at a little distance. Donna Rosa, the favourite -dwarf negress, dressed out in a flaming scarlet riding-habit, not so -frolicsome as the last time I had the pleasure of seeing her in this -fairy bower, was more sentimental, and leaned against the door, ogling -and flirting with a handsome Moor belonging to the Marquis.</p> - -<p>Presently the Queen, followed by her sister and daughter-in-law, the -Princess of Brazil, came forth from her merenda, and seated herself in -front of the latticed-window, behind which I was placed. Her manner -struck me as being peculiarly dignified and conciliating. She looks born -to command; but at the same time to make that high authority as much<a name="page_vol_2_2197" id="page_vol_2_2197"></a> -beloved as respected. Justice and clemency, the motto so glaringly -misapplied on the banner of the abhorred Inquisition, might be -transferred with the strictest truth to this good princess. During the -fatal contest betwixt England and its colonies, the wise neutrality she -persevered in maintaining was of the most vital benefit to her -dominions, and hitherto, the native commerce of Portugal has attained -under her mild auspices an unprecedented degree of prosperity.</p> - -<p>Nothing could exceed the profound respect, the courtly decorum her -presence appeared to inspire. The Conde de Sampayo and the Viscount -Ponte de Lima knelt by the august personages with not much less -veneration, I should be tempted to imagine, than Moslems before the tomb -of their prophet, or Tartars in the presence of the Dalai Lama. Marialva -alone, who took his station opposite her Majesty, seemed to preserve his -ease and cheerfulness. The Prince of Brazil and Don Joaô looked not a -little ennuied; for they kept stalking about with their hands in their -pockets, their mouths in a perpetual yawn, and<a name="page_vol_2_2198" id="page_vol_2_2198"></a> their eyes wandering -from object to object, with a stare of royal vacancy.</p> - -<p>A most rigorous etiquette confining the Infants of Portugal within their -palaces, they are seldom known to mix even incognito with the crowd; so -that their flattering smiles or confidential yawns are not lavished upon -common observers. This sort of embalming princes alive, after all, is no -bad policy; it keeps them sacred; it concentrates their royal essence, -too apt, alas! to evaporate by exposure. What is so liberally paid for -by the willing tribute of the people as a rarity of exquisite relish, -should not be suffered to turn mundungus. However the individual may -dislike this severe regimen, state pageants might have the goodness to -recollect for what purpose they are bedecked and beworshipped.</p> - -<p>The Conde de Sampayo, lord in waiting, handed the tea to the Queen, and -fell down on both knees to present it. This ceremony over, for every -thing is ceremony at this stately court, the fireworks were announced, -and the royal sufferers, followed by their sufferees, adjourned to a -neighbouring apartment. The Marchioness, her daughters, and the -Countess<a name="page_vol_2_2199" id="page_vol_2_2199"></a> of Lumieres, mounted up to the boudoir where I was sitting, -and took possession of the windows. Seven or eight wheels, and as many -tourbillons began whirling and whizzing, whilst a profusion of admirable -line-rockets darted along in various directions, to the infinite delight -of the Countess of Lumieres, who, though hardly sixteen, has been -married four years. Her youthful cheerfulness, light hair, and fair -complexion, put me so much in mind of my Margaret, that I could not help -looking at her with a melancholy tenderness: her being with child -increased the resemblance, and as she sat in the recess of the window, -discovered at intervals by the blue light of rockets bursting high in -the air, I felt my blood thrill as if I beheld a phantom, and my eyes -were filled with tears.</p> - -<p>The last firework being played off, the Queen and the Infantas departed. -The Marchioness and the other ladies descended into the pavilion, where -we partook of a magnificent and truly royal collation. Donna Maria and -her little sister, animated by the dazzling illumination, tripped about -in their light muslin dresses, with all the sportiveness<a name="page_vol_2_2200" id="page_vol_2_2200"></a> of fairy -beings, such as might be supposed to have dropped down from the floating -clouds, which Pillement has so well represented on the ceiling.<a name="page_vol_2_2201" id="page_vol_2_2201"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXX-port" id="LETTER_XXX-port"></a>LETTER XXX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Cathedral of Lisbon.—Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.—The Holy -Crows.—Party formed to visit them.—A Portuguese -poet.—Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.—Singular -tradition connected with them.—Illuminations in honour of the -Infanta’s accouchement.—Public harangues.—Policarpio’s singing, -and anecdotes of the <i>haute noblesse</i>.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">November 8th, 1787.</p> - -<p>V<small>ERDEIL</small> and I rattled over cracked pavements this morning in my rough -travelling-coach, for the sake of exercise. The pretext for our -excursion was to see a remarkable chapel, inlaid with jasper and -lapis-lazuli, in the church of St. Roch; but when we arrived, three or -four masses were celebrating, and not a creature sufficiently disengaged -to draw the curtain which veils the altar, so we went out as wise as we -came in.</p> - -<p>Not having yet seen the cathedral, or See-church, as it is called at -Lisbon, we directed our course to that quarter. It is a building of no<a name="page_vol_2_2202" id="page_vol_2_2202"></a> -striking dimensions, narrow and gloomy, without being awful. The -earthquake crumbled its glories to dust, if ever it had any, and so -dreadfully shattered the chapels, with which it is clustered, that very -slight traces of their having made part of a mosque are discernible.</p> - -<p>Though I had not been led to expect great things, even from descriptions -in travels and topographical works, which, like peerage-books and -pedigrees, are tenderly inclined to make something of what is next to -nothing at all: I hunted away, as became a diligent traveller, after -altar-pieces and tombs, but can boast of no discoveries. To be sure, we -had not much time to look about us: the priests and sacristans, who -fastened upon us, insisted upon our revisiting the corner of a bye -staircase, where are to be kissed and worshipped the traces of St. -Anthony’s fingers. The saint, it seems, being closely pursued by the -father of lies and parent of evil, alias Old Scratch, (I really could -not clearly learn upon what occasion,) indented the sign of the cross -into a wall of the hardest marble, and stopped his proceedings. A very -pleasing little picture hangs up near the miraculous cross, and records -the tradition.<a name="page_vol_2_2203" id="page_vol_2_2203"></a></p> - -<p>All this was admirable; but nothing in comparison with some stories -about certain holy crows. “The very birds are in being,” said a -sacristan. “What!” answered I, “the individual<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> crows who attended -St. Vincent?”—“Not exactly,” was the reply, (in a whisper, intended for -my private ear); “but their immediate descendants.”—“Mighty well; this -very evening, please God, I will pay my respects to them, and in good -company, so adieu for the present.”</p> - -<p>Our next point was the Theatine convent. We looked into the library, -which lies in the same confusion in which it was left by the earthquake; -half the books out of their shelves, tumbled one over the other in dusty -heaps. A shrewd, active monk, who, I am told, has written a history of -the House of Braganza, not yet printed, guided our steps through this -chaos of literature; and after searching half-an-hour for some curious -voyages he wished to display to us, led us into his cell, and pressed -our attention to a cabinet of medals he had been at some pains and -expense in collecting.<a name="page_vol_2_2204" id="page_vol_2_2204"></a></p> - -<p>Not feeling any particular vocation for numismatic researches, I left -Verdeil with the monk, puzzling out some very questionable inscriptions, -and went to beat up for recruits to accompany me in the evening to the -holy crows. First, I found the Abade Xavier, and secondly, the famous -missionary preacher from Boa Morte, and then the Grand Prior, and -lastly, the Marquis of Marialva; Don Pedro begged not to be left out, so -we formed a coach full, and I drove my whole cargo home to dinner. -Verdeil was already returned with his reverend medallist, and had also -collected the governor of Goa, Don Frederic de Sousa Cagliariz, his -constant attendant a bullying Savoyard, or Piedmontese Count, by name -Lucatelli; and a pale, limber, odd-looking young man, Senhor Manuel -Maria, the queerest, but, perhaps, the most original of God’s poetical -creatures. He happened to be in one of those eccentric, lively moods, -which, like sunshine in the depth of winter, come on when least -expected. A thousand quaint conceits, a thousand flashes of wild -merriment, a thousand satirical darts shot from him, and we were all -convulsed with laughter; but when he began<a name="page_vol_2_2205" id="page_vol_2_2205"></a> reciting some of his -compositions, in which great depth of thought is blended with the most -pathetic touches, I felt myself thrilled and agitated. Indeed, this -strange and versatile character may be said to possess the true wand of -enchantment, which, at the will of its master, either animates or -petrifies.</p> - -<p>Perceiving how much I was attracted towards him, he said to me, “I did -not expect an Englishman would have condescended to pay a young, -obscure, modern versifier, any attention. You think we have no bard but -Camoens, and that Camoens has written nothing worth notice, but the -Lusiad. Here is a sonnet worth half the Lusiad.</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i6">CXCII.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">‘A fermosura desta fresca serra,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">E a sombra dos verdes castanheiros,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">O manso caminhar destes ribeiros,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Donde toda a tristeza se desterra;<br /></span> -<span class="ist">O rouco som do mar, a estranha terra,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">O esconder do Sol pellos outeiros,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">O recolher dos gados derradeiros,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Das nuvens pello ar a branda guerra:<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Em fim tudo o que a rara natureza<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Com tanta variedade nos ofrece,<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Me està (se não te vejo) magoando:<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Sem ti tudo me enoja, e me aborrece,<a name="page_vol_2_2206" id="page_vol_2_2206"></a><br /></span> -<span class="ist">Sem ti perpetuamente estou passando<br /></span> -<span class="ist">Nas mòres alegrias, mòr tristeza!’<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">Not an image of rural beauty has escaped our divine poet; and how -feelingly are they applied from the landscape to the heart! What a -fascinating languor, like the last beams of an evening sun, is thrown -over the whole composition! If I am any thing, this sonnet has made me -what I am; but what am I, compared to Monteiro? Judge,” continued he, -putting into my hand some manuscript verses of this author, to whom the -Portuguese are vehemently partial. Though they were striking and -sonorous, I must confess the sonnet of Camoens, and many of Senhor -Manuel Maria’s own verses, pleased me infinitely more; but in fact, I -was not sufficiently initiated into the force and idiom of the -Portuguese language to be a competent judge; and it was only in fancying -me one, that this powerful genius discovered any want of penetration.</p> - -<p>Our dinner was lively and convivial. At the dessert the Abadè produced -an immense tray of dried fruits and sweetmeats, which one of his hundred -and fifty <i>protégés</i> had sent him from, I forget what exotic region. -These good<a name="page_vol_2_2207" id="page_vol_2_2207"></a> things he kept handing to us, and almost cramming down our -throats, as if we had been turkeys and he a poulterer, whose livelihood -depended upon our fattening. “There,” said he, “did you ever behold such -admirable productions? Our Queen has thousands and thousands of miles -with fruit-groves over your head, and rocks of gold and diamonds beneath -your feet. The riches and fertility of her possessions have no bounds, -but the sea, and the sea itself might belong to us if we pleased; for we -have such means of ship-building, masts two hundred feet high, -incorruptible timbers, courageous seamen. Don Frederic can tell you what -some of our heroes achieved not long ago against the gentiles at Goa. -Your Joaô Bulles are not half so smart, half so valorous.”</p> - -<p>Thus he went on, bouncing and roaring us deaf. For patriotic -rodomontades and flourishes, no nation excels the Portuguese, and no -Portuguese the Abadè!</p> - -<p>At length, however, all this tasting and praising having been gone -through with, we set forth on the wings of holiness, to pay our devoirs -to the holy crows. A certain sum having been allotted time immemorial -for the<a name="page_vol_2_2208" id="page_vol_2_2208"></a> maintenance of two birds of this species, we found them very -comfortably established in a recess of a cloister adjoining the -cathedral, well fed and certainly most devoutly venerated.</p> - -<p>The origin of this singular custom dates as high as the days of St. -Vincent, who was martyrized near the Cape, which bears his name, and -whose mangled body was conveyed to Lisbon in a boat, attended by crows. -These disinterested birds, after seeing it decently interred, pursued -his murderers with dreadful screams and tore their eyes out. The boat -and the crows are painted or sculptured in every corner of the -cathedral, and upon several tablets appear emblazoned an endless record -of their penetration in the discovery of criminals.</p> - -<p>It was growing late when we arrived, and their feathered sanctities were -gone quietly to roost; but the sacristans in waiting, the moment they -saw us approach, officiously roused them. O, how plump and sleek, and -glossy they are! My admiration of their size, their plumage, and their -deep-toned croakings carried me, I fear, beyond the bounds of saintly -decorum. I was just stretching out my hand<a name="page_vol_2_2209" id="page_vol_2_2209"></a> to stroke their feathers, -when the missionary checked me with a solemn forbidding look. The rest -of the company, aware of the proper ceremonial, kept a respectful -distance, whilst the sacristan and a toothless priest, almost bent -double with age, communicated a long string of miraculous anecdotes -concerning the present holy crows, their immediate predecessors, and -other holy crows in the old time before them.</p> - -<p>To all these super-marvellous narrations, the missionary appeared to -listen with implicit faith, and never opened his lips during the time we -remained in the cloister, except to enforce our veneration, and exclaim -with pious composure, “<i>honrado corvo</i>.” I really believe we should have -stayed till midnight, had not a page arrived from her Majesty to summon -the Marquis of M—— and his almoner away.</p> - -<p>My curiosity being fully satisfied upon the subject of the holy crows, I -was easily persuaded by the Grand Prior to move off, and drive through -the principal streets to see the illuminations in honour of the Infanta, -consort to Don Gabriel of Spain, who had produced<a name="page_vol_2_2210" id="page_vol_2_2210"></a> a prince. A great -many idlers being abroad upon the same errand, we proceeded with -difficulty, and were very near having the wheels of our carriage -dislocated in attempting to pass an old-fashioned, preposterous coach, -belonging to one of the dignitaries of the patriarchal cathedral. I -cannot launch forth in praise of the illuminations; but some rockets -which were let off in the Terreiro do Paco, surprised me by the vast -height to which they rose, and the unusual number of clear blue stars -into which they burst. The Portuguese excel in fireworks; the late poor, -drivelling, saintly king having expended large sums in bringing this art -to perfection.</p> - -<p>From the Terreiro do Paco we drove to the great square, in which the -palace of the Inquisition is situated. There we found a vast mob, to -whom three or four Capuchin preachers were holding forth upon the -glories and illuminations of a better world. I should have listened not -uninterested to their harangues, which appeared, from the specimen I -caught of them, to be full of fire and frenzy, had not the Grand Prior, -in perpetual awe of the rheumatism, complained of the<a name="page_vol_2_2211" id="page_vol_2_2211"></a> night, so we -drove home. Every apartment of the house was filled with the thick -vapour of wax-torches, which had been set most loyally a blazing. I -fumed and fretted and threw open the windows. Away went the Grand Prior, -and in came Policarpio, the famous tenor singer, who entertained us with -several bravura airs of glib and surprising volubility, before supper -and during it, in a style equally professional, with many private -anecdotes of the <i>haute noblesse</i>, his principal employers, not -infinitely to their advantage.</p> - -<p>I longed, in return, to have enlarged a little upon the adventures of -the holy crows, but prudently repressed my inclination. It would -ill-become a person so well treated as I had been by the crow-fanciers, -to handle such subjects with any degree of levity.<a name="page_vol_2_2212" id="page_vol_2_2212"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXXI-port" id="LETTER_XXXI-port"></a>LETTER XXXI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Rambles in the Valley of Collares.—Elysian scenery. Song of a -young female peasant.—Rustic hospitality.—Interview with the -Prince of Brazil<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> in the plains of Cascais.—Conversation with -His Royal Highness.—Return to Ramalhaô.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Oct. 19th, 1787.</p> - -<p>M<small>Y</small> health improves every day. The clear exhilarating weather we now -enjoy calls forth the liveliest sense of existence. I ride, walk, and -climb, as long as I please, without fatiguing myself. The valley of -Collares affords me a source of perpetual amusement. I have discovered a -variety of paths which lead through chesnut copses and orchards to -irregular green spots, where self-sown bays and citron-bushes hang wild -over the rocky margin of a little river, and drop their fruit and -blossoms into the stream. You may ride for miles along the bank of this -delightful water, catching endless<a name="page_vol_2_2213" id="page_vol_2_2213"></a> perspectives of flowery thickets, -between the stems of poplar and walnut. The scenery is truly elysian, -and exactly such as poets assign for the resort of happy spirits.</p> - -<p>The mossy fragments of rock, grotesque pollards, and rustic bridges you -meet with at every step, recall Savoy and Switzerland to the -imagination; but the exotic cast of the vegetation, the vivid green of -the citron, the golden fruitage of the orange, the blossoming myrtle, -and the rich fragrance of a turf, embroidered with the -brightest-coloured and most aromatic flowers, allow me without a violent -stretch of fancy to believe myself in the garden of the Hesperides, and -to expect the dragon under every tree. I by no means like the thoughts -of abandoning these smiling regions, and have been twenty times on the -point this very day of revoking the orders I have given for my journey. -Whatever objections I may have had to Portugal seem to vanish, since I -have determined to leave it; for such is the perversity of human nature, -that objects appear the most estimable precisely at the moment when we -are going to lose them.</p> - -<p>There was this morning a mild radiance in<a name="page_vol_2_2214" id="page_vol_2_2214"></a> the sunbeams, and a balsamic -serenity in the air, which infused that voluptuous listlessness, that -desire of remaining imparadised in one delightful spot, which, in -classical fictions, was supposed to render those who had tasted the -lotos forgetful of country, of friends, and of every tie. My feelings -were not dissimilar, I loathed the idea of moving away.</p> - -<p>Though I had entered these beautiful orchards soon after sunrise, the -clocks of some distant conventual churches had chimed hour after hour -before I could prevail upon myself to quit the spreading odoriferous -bay-trees under which I had been lying. If shades so cool and fragrant -invited to repose, I must observe that never were paths better -calculated to tempt the laziest of beings to a walk, than those which -opened on all sides, and are formed of a smooth dry sand, bound firmly -together, composing a surface as hard as gravel.</p> - -<p>These level paths wind about amongst a labyrinth of light and elegant -fruit-trees; almond, plum, and cherry, something like the groves of -Tonga-taboo, as represented in Cook’s voyages; and to increase the -resemblance, neat cane fences and low open sheds, thatched with<a name="page_vol_2_2215" id="page_vol_2_2215"></a> reeds, -appear at intervals, breaking the horizontal lines of the perspective.</p> - -<p>I had now lingered and loitered away pretty nearly the whole morning, -and though, as far as scenery could authorize and climate inspire, I -might fancy myself an inhabitant of elysium, I could not pretend to be -sufficiently ethereal to exist without nourishment. In plain English, I -was extremely hungry. The pears, quinces, and oranges which dangled -above my head, although fair to the eye, were neither so juicy nor -gratifying to the palate, as might have been expected from their -promising appearance.</p> - -<p>Being considerably</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">More than a mile immersed within the wood,<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a><br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">and not recollecting by which clue of a path I could get out of it, I -remained at least half-an-hour deliberating which way to turn myself. -The sheds and enclosures I have mentioned were put together with care -and even nicety, it is true, but seemed to have no other inhabitants -than flocks of bantams, strutting about and destroying the eggs and -hopes of many an insect family. These glistening fowls, like<a name="page_vol_2_2216" id="page_vol_2_2216"></a> their -brethren described in Anson’s voyages, as animating the profound -solitudes of the island of Tinian, appeared to have no master.</p> - -<p>At length, just as I was beginning to wish myself very heartily in a -less romantic region, I heard the loud, though not unmusical, tones of a -powerful female voice, echoing through the arched green avenues; -presently, a stout ruddy young peasant, very picturesquely attired in -brown and scarlet, came hoydening along, driving a mule before her, -laden with two enormous panniers of grapes. To ask for a share of this -luxuriant load, and to compliment the fair driver, was instantaneous on -my part, but to no purpose. I was answered by a sly wink, “We all belong -to Senhor Josè Dias, whose corral, or farm-yard, is half a league -distant. There, Senhor, if you follow that road, and don’t puzzle -yourself by straying to the right or left, you will soon reach it, and -the bailiff, I dare say, will be proud to give you as many grapes as you -please. Good morning, happy days to you! I must mind my business.”</p> - -<p>Seating herself between the tantalizing panniers, she was gone in an -instant, and I had the<a name="page_vol_2_2217" id="page_vol_2_2217"></a> good luck to arrive straight at the wicket of a -rude, dry wall, winding up and down several bushy slopes in a wild -irregular manner. If the outside of this enclosure was rough and -unpromising, the interior presented a most cheering scene of rural -opulence. Droves of cows and goats milking; ovens, out of which huge -cakes of savoury bread had just been taken; ranges of beehives, and long -pillared sheds, entirely tapestried with purple and yellow muscadine -grapes, half candied, which were hung up to dry. A very good-natured, -classical-look-magister pecorum, followed by two well-disciplined, -though savage-eyed dogs, whom the least glance of their master prevented -from barking, gave me a hearty welcome, and with genuine hospitality not -only allowed me the free range of his domain, but set whatever it -produced in the greatest perfection before me. A contest took place -between two or three curly-haired, chubby-faced children, who should be -first to bring me walnuts fresh from the shell, bowls of milk, and -cream-cheeses, made after the best of fashions, that of the province of -Alemtejo.</p> - -<p>I found myself so abstracted from the world<a name="page_vol_2_2218" id="page_vol_2_2218"></a> in this retirement, so -perfectly transported back some centuries into primitive patriarchal -times, that I don’t recollect having ever enjoyed a few hours of more -delightful calm. “Here,” did I say to myself, “am I out of the way of -courts and ceremonies, and commonplace visitations, or salutations, or -gossip.” But, alas! how vain is all one thinks or says to one’s self -nineteen times out of twenty.</p> - -<p>Whilst I was blessing my stars for this truce to the irksome bustle of -the life I had led ever since her Majesty’s arrival at Cintra, a loud -hallooing, the cracking of whips, and the tramping of horses, made me -start up from the snug corner in which I had established myself, and -dispelled all my soothing visions. Luis de Miranda, the colonel of the -Cascais regiment, an intimate confidant and favourite of the Prince of -Brazil, broke in upon me with a thousand (as he thought) obliging -reproaches, for having deserted Ramalhaô the very morning he had come on -purpose to dine with me, and to propose a ride after dinner to a -particular point of the Cintra mountains, which commands, he assured me, -such a prospect as I had not yet been blessed with in Portugal. “It is -not even<a name="page_vol_2_2219" id="page_vol_2_2219"></a> now,” said he, “too late. I have brought your horses along -with me, whom I found fretting and stamping under a great tree at the -entrance of these foolish lanes. Come, get into your stirrups for God’s -sake, and I will answer for your thinking yourself well repaid by the -scene I shall disclose to you.”</p> - -<p>As I was doomed to be disturbed and talked out of the elysium in which I -had been lapped for these last seven or eight hours, it was no matter in -what position, whether on foot or on horseback; I therefore complied, -and away we galloped. The horses were remarkably sure-footed, or else, I -think, we must have rolled down the precipices; for our road,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“If road it could be call’d where road was none,”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">led us by zigzags and short cuts over steeps and acclivities about three -or four leagues, till reaching a heathy desert, where a solitary cross -staring out of a few weather-beaten bushes, marked the highest point of -this wild eminence, one of the most expansive prospects of sea, and -plain, and distant mountains, I ever beheld, burst suddenly upon me, -rendered still more vast, aërial, and indefinite, by the visionary, -magic vapour of the evening sun.<a name="page_vol_2_2220" id="page_vol_2_2220"></a></p> - -<p>After enjoying a moment or two the general effect, I began tracing out -the principal objects in the view, as far, that is to say, as they could -be traced, through the medium of the intense glowing haze. I followed -the course of the Tagus, from its entrance till it was lost in the low -estuaries beyond Lisbon. Cascais appeared with its long reaches of wall -and bomb-proof casemates like a Moorish town, and by the help of a glass -I distinguished a tall palm lifting itself above a cluster of white -buildings.</p> - -<p>“Well,” said I, to my conductor, “this prospect has certainly charms -worth seeing; but not sufficient to make me forget that it is high time -to get home and refresh ourselves.” “Not so fast,” was the answer, “we -have still a great deal more to see.”</p> - -<p>Having acquired, I can hardly tell why or wherefore, a sheep-like habit -of following wherever he led, I spurred after him down a rough -declivity, thick strewn with rolling stones and pebbles. At the bottom -of this descent, a dreary sun-burnt plain extended itself far and wide. -Whilst we dismounted and halted a few minutes to give our horses breath, -I could not help observing, that the view we<a name="page_vol_2_2221" id="page_vol_2_2221"></a> were now contemplating but -ill-rewarded the risk of breaking our necks in riding down such rapid -declivities. He smiled, and asked me whether I saw nothing at all -interesting in the prospect. “Yes,” said I, “a sort of caravan I -perceive, about a quarter of a mile off, is by no means uninteresting; -that confused group of people in scarlet, with gleaming arms and -sumpter-mules, and those striped awnings stretched from ruined walls, -present exactly that kind of scenery I should expect to meet with in the -neighbourhood of Grand Cairo.” “Come then,” said he, “it is time to -clear up this mystery, and tell you for what purpose we have taken such -a long and fatiguing ride. The caravan which strikes you as being so -very picturesque, is composed of the attendants of the Prince of Brazil, -who has been passing the whole day upon a shooting-party, and is just at -this moment taking a little repose beneath yonder awnings. It was by his -desire I brought you here, for I have his commands to express his wishes -of having half-an-hour’s conversation with you, unobserved, and in -perfect incognito. Walk on as if you were collecting plants or taking -sketches, I will apprize his<a name="page_vol_2_2222" id="page_vol_2_2222"></a> royal highness, and you will meet as it -were by chance, and without any form. No one shall be near enough to -hear a word you say to each other, for I will take my station at the -distance of at least one hundred paces, and keep off all spies and -intruders.”</p> - -<p>I did as I was directed. A little door in the ruined wall, against which -an awning was fixed, opened, and there appeared a young man of rather a -prepossessing figure, fairer and ruddier than most of his countrymen, -who advanced towards me with a very pleasant engaging countenance, moved -his hat in a dignified graceful manner, and after insisting upon my -being covered, began addressing himself to me with great precipitation, -in a most fluent lingua-franca, half Italian and half Portuguese. This -jargon is very prevalent at the Ajuda<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a><a name="page_vol_2_2223" id="page_vol_2_2223"></a> palace, where Italian singers -are in much higher request and fashion than persons of deeper tone and -intellect.</p> - -<p>The first question his royal highness honoured me with was, whether I -had visited his cabinet of instruments. Upon my answering in the -affirmative, and that the apparatus appeared to me extremely perfect, -and in admirable order, he observed, “The arrangement is certainly good, -for one of my particular friends, a very learned man, has made it; but -notwithstanding the high price I have paid, your Ramsdens and Dollonds -have treated themselves more generously than me. I believe,” continued -his royal highness, “according to what the Duke d’Alafoens has -repeatedly assured me, I am conversing with a person who has no weak, -blind prejudices, in favour of his country, and who sees things as they -are, not as they have been, or as they ought to be. That commercial -greediness the English display in every transaction has cost us dear in -more than one particular.”</p> - -<p>He then ran over the ground Pombal had so often trodden bare, both in -his state papers and in various publications which had been promulgated<a name="page_vol_2_2224" id="page_vol_2_2224"></a> -during his administration, and I soon perceived of what school his royal -highness was a disciple.</p> - -<p>“We deserve all this,” continued he, “and worse, for our tame -acquiescence in every measure your cabinet dictates; but no wonder, -oppressed and debased as we are, by ponderous, useless institutions. -When there are so many drones in a hive, it is in vain to look for -honey. Were you not surprised, were you not shocked, at finding us so -many centuries behind the rest of Europe?”</p> - -<p>I bowed, and smiled. This spark of approbation induced, I believe, his -royal highness to blaze forth into a flaming encomium upon certain -reforms and purifications which were carrying on in Brabant, under the -auspices of his most sacred apostolic Majesty Joseph the Second. “I have -the happiness,” continued the Prince, “to correspond not unfrequently -with this enlightened sovereign. The Duke d’Alafoens, who has likewise -the advantage of communicating with him, never fails to give me the -detail of these salutary proceedings. When shall we have sufficient -manliness to imitate them!<a name="page_vol_2_2225" id="page_vol_2_2225"></a>”</p> - -<p>Though I bowed and smiled again, I could not resist taking the liberty -of observing that such very rapid and vigorous measures as those his -imperial Majesty had resorted to, were more to be admired than imitated; -that people who had been so long in darkness, if too suddenly broken in -upon by a stream of effulgence, were more likely to be blinded than -enlightened; and that blows given at random by persons whose eyes were -closed were dangerous, and might fall heaviest perhaps in directions -very opposite to those for which they were intended. This was rather -bold, and did not seem to please the novice in boldness.</p> - -<p>After a short pause, which allowed him, at least, an opportunity of -taking breath, he looked steadily at me, and perceiving my countenance -arrayed in the best expression of admiration I could throw into it, -resumed the thread of his philosophical discourse, and even condescended -to detail some very singular and, as they struck me, most perilous -projects. Continuing to talk on with an increased impetus (like those -whose steps are accelerated by running down hill) he dropped some vague -hints of measures that filled me not only with surprise,<a name="page_vol_2_2226" id="page_vol_2_2226"></a> but with a -sensation approaching to horror. I bowed, but I could not smile. My -imagination, which had caught the alarm at the extraordinary nature of -the topics he was discoursing upon, conjured up a train of appalling -images, and I asked myself more than once whether I was not under the -influence of a distempered dream.</p> - -<p>Being too much engaged in listening to himself to notice my confusion, -he worked as hard as a pioneer in clearing away the rubbish of ages, -entered minutely and not unlearnedly into the ancient jurisprudence and -maxims of his country, its relations with foreign powers, and the rank -from whence it had fallen in modern times, to be attributed in a great -measure, he observed, to a blind and mistaken reliance upon the selfish -politics of our predominant island. Although he did not spare my -country, he certainly appeared not over partial to his own. He painted -its military defects and priest-ridden policy in vivid colours. In -short, this part of our discourse was a “<i>deploratio Lusitanicæ -Gentis</i>,” full as vehement as that which the celebrated Damien a Goes, -to show his fine Latin and fine humanity,<a name="page_vol_2_2227" id="page_vol_2_2227"></a> poured forth some centuries -ago over the poor wretched Laplanders.</p> - -<p>Not approving in any degree the tendency of all this display, I most -heartily prayed it might end. Above an hour had passed since it began, -and flattered as I was by the protraction of so condescending a -conference, I could not help thinking that these fountains of honour are -fountains of talk and not of mercy; they flow over, if once set a going, -without pity or moderation. Persons in supreme stations, whom no one -ventures to contradict, run on at a furious rate. You frequently flatter -yourself they are exhausted; but you flatter yourself in vain. Sometimes -indeed, by way of variety, they contradict themselves, and then the -debate is carried on between self and self, to the desperation of their -subject auditors, who, without being guilty of a word in reply, are -involved in the same penalty us the most captious disputant. This was my -case. I scarcely uttered a syllable after my first unsuccessful essay; -but thousands of words were nevertheless lavished upon me, and -innumerable questions proposed and answered by the questioner with equal -rapidity.<a name="page_vol_2_2228" id="page_vol_2_2228"></a></p> - -<p>In return for the honour of being admitted to this monological dialogue, -I kept bowing and nodding; and towards the close of the conference, -contrived to smile again pretty decently. His royal highness, I learned -afterwards, was satisfied with my looks and gestures, and even bestowed -a brevet upon me of a great deal more erudition than I possessed or -pretended to.</p> - -<p>The sun set, the dews fell, the Prince retired, Louis de Miranda -followed him, and I remounted my horse with an indigestion of sounding -phrases, and the most confirmed belief that “<i>the church was in -danger</i>.”</p> - -<p>Tired and exhausted, I threw myself on my sofa the moment I reached -Ramalhaô; but the agitation of my spirits would not allow me any repose. -I swallowed some tea with avidity, and driving to the palace, evocated -the archbishop confessor, who had been locked up above half-an-hour in -his interior cabinet. To him I related all that had passed at this -unsought, unexpected interview. The consequences in time developed -themselves.<a name="page_vol_2_2229" id="page_vol_2_2229"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXXII-port" id="LETTER_XXXII-port"></a>LETTER XXXII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Convent of Boa Morte.—Emaciated priests.—Austerity of the -Order.—Contrite personages.—A <i>nouveau riche</i>.—His house.—Walk -on the veranda of the palace at Belem.—Train of attendants at -dinner.—Portuguese gluttony.—Black dose of legendary -superstition.—Terrible denunciations.—A dreary evening.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Nov. 9th, 1787.</p> - -<p>M—— and his principal almoner, a renowned missionary, and one of the -most eloquent preachers in her Majesty’s dominions, were at my door by -ten, waiting to take me with them to the convent of Boa Morte. This is a -true Golgotha, a place of many skulls, for its inhabitants, though they -live, move, and have a sort of being, are little better than skeletons. -The priest who officiated appeared so emaciated and cadaverous, that I -could hardly have supposed he would have had strength sufficient to -elevate the chalice. It did not, however, fall from his hands, and -having<a name="page_vol_2_2230" id="page_vol_2_2230"></a> finished his mass, a second phantom tottered forth and began -another. From the pictures and images of more than ordinary ghastliness -which cover the chapels and cloisters, and from the deep contrition -apparent in the tears, gestures, and ejaculations of the faithful who -resort to them, I fancy no convent in Lisbon can be compared with this -for austerity and devotion.</p> - -<p>M—— shook all over with piety, and so did his companion, whose knees -are become horny with frequent kneelings, and who, if one is to believe -Verdeil, will end his days in a hermitage, or go mad, or perhaps both. -He pretends, too, that it is this grey-beard that has added new fuel to -the flame of M——’s devotion, and that by mutually encouraging each -other, they will soon produce fruits worthy of Bedlam, if not of -Paradise. To be sure, this father may boast a conspicuously devout turn, -and a most resolute manner of thumping himself; but he must not be too -vain. In Lisbon there are at least fifty or sixty thousand good souls, -who, without having travelled so far, thump full as sonorously as he. -This morning, at Boa Morte, one shrivelled sinner remained<a name="page_vol_2_2231" id="page_vol_2_2231"></a> the whole -time the masses lasted with outstretched arms, in the shape and with all -the inflexible stiffness of an old-fashioned branched candlestick. -Another contrite personage was so affected at the moment of -consecration, that he flattened his nose on the pavement, and licked the -dirt and dust with which it was thickly encrusted.</p> - -<p>I must confess that, notwithstanding this very superior display of -sanctity, I was not sorry to escape from the dingy cloisters of the -convent, and breathe the pure air, and look up at the blue exhilarating -sky. The weather being delightful, we drove to several distant parts of -the town, to which I was yet a stranger. Returning back by the Bairro -Alto, we looked into a new house, just finished building at an enormous -expense, by Joaô Ferreira, who, from an humble retailer of leather, has -risen, by the archbishop’s favour, to the possession of some of the most -lucrative contracts in Portugal. Uglier-shaped apartments than those the -poor shoe-man had contrived for himself I never beheld. The hangings are -of satin of the deepest blue, and the fiercest and most sulphureous -yellow. Every ceiling is daubed<a name="page_vol_2_2232" id="page_vol_2_2232"></a> over with allegorical paintings, most -indifferently executed, and loaded with gilt ornaments, in the style of -those splendid sign-posts which some years past were the glory of -High-Holborn and St. Giles’s.</p> - -<p>We were soon tired of all this finery, and as it was growing late, made -the best of our way to Belem. Whilst M—— was writing letters, I walked -out with Don Pedro on the verandas of the palace, which are washed by -the Tagus, and flanked with turrets. The views are enchanting, and the -day being warm and serene, I enjoyed them in all their beauty. Several -large vessels passed by as we were leaning over the balustrades, and -almost touched us with their streamers. Even frigates and ships of the -first rate approach within a quarter of a mile of the palace.</p> - -<p>There was a greater crowd of attendants than usual round our table at -dinner to-day, and the huge massy dishes were brought up by a long train -of gentlemen and chaplains, several of them decorated with the orders of -Avis and Christ. This attendance had quite a feudal air, and transported -the imagination to the days of chivalry, when great chieftains were -waited upon like kings, by noble vassals.<a name="page_vol_2_2233" id="page_vol_2_2233"></a></p> - -<p>The Portuguese had need have the stomachs of ostriches to digest the -loads of savoury viands with which they cram themselves. Their -vegetables, their rice, their poultry, are all stewed in the essence of -ham, and so strongly seasoned with pepper and spices, that a spoonful of -peas, or a quarter of an onion, is sufficient to set one’s mouth in a -flame. With such a diet, and the continual swallowing of sweetmeats, I -am not surprised at their complaining so often of head-aches and -vapours.</p> - -<p>Several of the old Marquis of M——’s confidants and buffoons crept -forth to have a peep at the stranger, and hear the famous missionary -descant upon martyrdom and miracles. The scenery of Boa Morte being -fresh in his thoughts, his descriptions were gloomy and appalling: Don -Pedro, his sisters, and his cousin, the young Conde d’Atalaya,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> -gathered round him with all the trembling eagerness of children who -hunger and thirst after hobgoblin stories. You may be sure he sent them -not empty away. A blacker dose of legendary superstition was never -administered. The Marchioness seemed to swallow these terrific -narrations with nearly as much avidity as her<a name="page_vol_2_2234" id="page_vol_2_2234"></a> children, and the old -Abade, dropping his chin in a woful manner, produced an enormous rosary, -and kept thumbing his beads and mumbling orisons.</p> - -<p>M—— had luckily been summoned to the palace by a special mandate from -his royal mistress. Had he been of the party, I fear Verdeil’s prophecy -would have been accomplished, for never did mortal hold forth with so -much scaring energy as this enthusiastic preacher. The most terrible -denunciations of divine wrath which ever were thundered forth by ancient -or modern writers of sermons and homilies recurred to his memory, and he -dealt them about him with a vengeance. The last half hour of the -discourse we were all in total darkness,—nobody had thought of calling -for lights: the children were huddled together, scarce venturing to move -or breathe. It was a most singular scene.</p> - -<p>Full of the ghastly images the good father had conjured up in my -imagination, I returned home alone in my carriage, shivering and -shuddering. My friends were out, and nothing could be more dreary than -the appearance of my fireless apartments.<a name="page_vol_2_2235" id="page_vol_2_2235"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXXIII-port" id="LETTER_XXXIII-port"></a>LETTER XXXIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Rehearsal of Seguidillas.—Evening scene.—Crowds of -beggars.—Royal charity misplaced.—Mendicant flattery.—Frightful -countenances.—Performance at the Salitri theatre.—Countess of -Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.—A strange ballet.—Return to the -Palace.—Supper at the Camareira Mor’s.—Filial affection.—Last -interview with the Archbishop.—Fatal tide of events.—Heart-felt -regret on leaving Portugal.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sunday, November 25th, 1787.</p> - -<p>W<small>HAT</small> a morning for the 25th of November! The sun shining most -brilliantly, insects fluttering about, and flowers expanding—the late -rains having called forth a second spring, and tinted the hills round -Almada, on the opposite shore of the Tagus, with a lively green.</p> - -<p>I breakfasted alone, Verdeil being gone to St. Roch’s, to see the -ceremony of publishing the bull of the Crusade, which allows good -Christians to eat eggs and butter during Lent, upon paying his holiness -a few shillings. I stayed at home, hearing a rehearsal of Seguidillas,<a name="page_vol_2_2236" id="page_vol_2_2236"></a> -in preparation for a new intermez at the Salitri theatre, till the hour -of mass was over, then getting into the Portuguese chaise, drove -headlong to the palace in the Placa do Commercio, and hastened to the -Marquis of M——’s apartments. All his family were assembled to dine -with him.</p> - -<p>Had it not been for the thoughts of my approaching departure, I should -have felt more comfort and happiness than has fallen to my lot for a -long interval. M——, whose attendance on the Queen may be too justly -termed a state of downright slavery, had hardly taken his place at -table, before he was called away. The Marchioness, Donna Henriquetta, -and her little sister, soon retreated to the Camareira-Mor’s apartments, -and I was left alone with Pedro and Duarte. They seized fast hold, each -of a hand, and running like greyhounds through long corridors, took me -to a balcony which commands one of the greatest thoroughfares in Lisbon.</p> - -<p>The evening was delightful, and vast crowds of people moving about, of -all degrees and nations, old and young, active and crippled, monks and -officers. Shoals of beggars kept<a name="page_vol_2_2237" id="page_vol_2_2237"></a> pouring in from every quarter to take -their stands at the gates of the palace and watch the Queen’s going out; -for her Majesty is a most indulgent mother to these sturdy sons of -idleness, and scarcely ever steps into her carriage without distributing -considerable alms amongst them. By this misplaced charity, hundreds of -stout fellows are taught the management of a crutch instead of a musket, -and the art of manufacturing sores, ulcers, and scabby pates, in the -most loathsome perfection. Duarte, who is all life and gaiety, vaulted -upon the railing of the balcony, and hung for a moment or two suspended -in a manner that would have frightened mothers and nurses into -convulsions. The beggars, who had nothing to do till her Majesty should -be forthcoming, seemed to be vastly entertained with these feats of -agility.</p> - -<p>They soon spied me out, and two brawny lubbers, whom an unfortunate -combination of smallpox and king’s-evil had deprived of eye-sight, -informed, no doubt, by their comrades of what was going forward, began a -curious dialogue with voices still deeper and harsher than those of the -holy crows:—“Heaven prosper their noble excellencies, Don Duarte Manoel -and<a name="page_vol_2_2238" id="page_vol_2_2238"></a> Don Pedro, and all the Marialvas—sweet dear youths, long may they -be blessed with the use of their eyes and of all their limbs! Is that -the charitable Englishman in their sweet company?”—“Yes, my comrade,” -answered the second blind.—“What!” said the first, “that generous -favourite of the most glorious Lord St. Anthony? (O gloriosissimo Senhor -Sant-Antonio!)”—“Yes, my comrade.”—“O that I had but my precious eyes, -that I might enjoy the sight of his countenance!” exclaimed both -together.</p> - -<p>By the time the duet was thus far advanced, the halt, the maimed, and -the scabby, having tied some greasy nightcaps to the end of long poles, -poked them up through the very railing, bawling and roaring out charity, -“charity for the sake of the holy one of Lisbon.” Never was I looked up -to by a more distorted or frightful collection of countenances. I made -haste to throw down a plentiful shower of small copper money, or else -Duarte would have twitched away both poles and nightcaps, a frolic by no -means to be encouraged, as it might have marred our fame for the -readiest<a name="page_vol_2_2239" id="page_vol_2_2239"></a> and most polite attention to every demand in the name of St. -Anthony.</p> - -<p>Just as the orators were receiving their portion of pence and farthings, -a cry of “There’s the Queen, there’s the Princess!” carried the whole -hideous crowd away to another scene of action, and left me at full -liberty to be amused in my turn with the squirrel-like gambols of my -lively companion; he is really a fine enterprising boy, bold, alert, and -sprightly; quite different from most of his illustrious young relations.</p> - -<p>Don Pedro by no means approved my English partiality to such active -feats, and after scolding his cousin for skipping about in so hazardous -a style, entreated me to take them to the Salitri theatre, where a box -had been prepared for us by his father’s orders. Upon the whole, I was -better entertained than I expected, though the performance lasted above -four hours and a half, from seven to near twelve. It consisted of a -ranting prose tragedy, in three acts, called Sesostris, two ballets, a -pastoral, and a farce. The decorations were not amiss, and the dresses -showy. A shambling, blear-eyed boy, bundled out in weeds of the deepest -sable,<a name="page_vol_2_2240" id="page_vol_2_2240"></a> squeaked and bellowed alternately the part of a widowed -princess. Another hob-e-di-hoy, tottering on high-heeled shoes, -represented her Egyptian majesty, and warbled two airs with all the -nauseous sweetness of a fluted falsetto. Though I could have boxed his -ears for surfeiting mine so filthily, the audience were of a very -different opinion, and were quite enthusiastic in their applause.</p> - -<p>In the stage-box I observed the mincing Countess of Pombeiro, whose -light hair and waxen complexion was finely contrasted by the ebon hue of -two little negro attendants perched on each side of her. It is the high -tone at present in this court to be surrounded by African implings, the -more hideous, the more prized, and to bedizen them in the most expensive -manner. The Queen has set the example, and the royal family vie with -each other in spoiling and caressing Donna Rosa, her Majesty’s -black-skinned, blubber-lipped, flat-nosed favourite.</p> - -<p>One of the ballets was admirably got up; upon the rising of the curtain, -a strange cabalistic apartment is discovered, where an astrologer -appears very busy at a table covered<a name="page_vol_2_2241" id="page_vol_2_2241"></a> with spheres and astrolabes, -arranging certain mysterious images, and pinking their eyes with a -gigantic pair of black compasses. A sort of Pierrot announces some -inquisitive travellers, who enter with many bows and scrapings. One of -them, the chief of the party, an old dapper beau in pink and silver, -reminded me very much of the Duke d’Alafoens, and sidled along and -tossed his cane about, and seemed to ask questions without waiting for -answers, with as good a grace as that janty general. The astrologer, -after explaining the wonders of his apartment with many pantomimical -contortions, invites his company to follow him, and the scene changes to -a long gallery, illuminated with a profusion of lights in gilt branches. -The perspective ends in a flight of steps, upon each of which stands a -row of figures, pantaloons, harlequins, sultans, sultanas, Indian -chiefs, devils, and savages, to all appearance motionless. Pierrot -brings in a machine like a hand-organ, and his master begins to grind, -the music accompanying. At the first chord, down drop the arms of all -the figures; at the second, each rank descends a step, and so on, till -gaining the level of the stage, and the<a name="page_vol_2_2242" id="page_vol_2_2242"></a> astrologer grinding faster and -faster, the supposed clock-work-assembly begin a general dance.</p> - -<p>Their ballet ended, the same accords are repeated, and all hop up in the -same stiff manner they hopped down. The travellers, highly pleased with -the show, depart; Pierrot, who longs to be grinding, persuades his -master to take a walk, and leave him in possession of the gallery. He -consents; but enjoins the gaping oaf upon no account to meddle with the -machine, or set the figures in motion. Vain are his directions! no -sooner has he turned his back than Pierrot goes to work with all his -strength; the figures fall a shaking as if on the point of disjoining -themselves; creak, crack, grinds the machine with horrid harshness; -legs, arms, and noddles are thrown into convulsions, three steps are -jumped at once. Pierrot, frightened out of his senses at the goggle-eyed -crowd advancing upon him, clings close to the machine and gives the -handle no respite. The music, too, degenerates into the most jarring, -screaking sounds, and the figures knocking against each other, and -whirling round and round in utter<a name="page_vol_2_2243" id="page_vol_2_2243"></a> confusion, fall flat upon the stage. -Pierrot runs from group to group in rueful despair, tries in vain to -reanimate them, and at length losing all patience, throws one over the -other, and heaps sultanas upon savages, and shepherds upon devilkins. -Most of these personages being represented by boys of twelve or thirteen -were easily wielded. After Pierrot has finished tossing and tumbling, he -drops down exhausted and lies as dead as his neighbours, hoping to -escape unnoticed amongst them. But this subterfuge avails him not; in -comes the astrologer armed with his compasses; back he starts at sight -of the confounded jumble. Pierrot pays for it all, is soon drawn forth -from his lurking-place, and the astrologer grinding in a moderate and -scientific manner, the figures lift themselves up, and returning all in -<i>status quo</i>, the ballet finishes.</p> - -<p>Shall I confess that this nonsense amused me pretty nearly as much as it -did my companions, whose raptures were only exceeded by those of madame -de Pombeiro’s implings. They, sweet, sooty innocents, kept gibbering and -pointing at the man with the black compasses in a manner so completely -African and<a name="page_vol_2_2244" id="page_vol_2_2244"></a> ludicrous, that I thought their contortions the best part -of the entertainment.</p> - -<p>The play ended, we hastened back to the palace, and traversing a number -of dark vestibules and guard-chambers, (all of a snore with jaded -equerries,) were almost blinded with a blaze of light from the room in -which supper was served up. There we found in addition to all the -Marialvas, the old marquis only excepted, the Camareira-mor, and five or -six other hags of supreme quality, feeding like cormorants upon a -variety of high-coloured and high-seasoned dishes. I suppose the keen -air from the Tagus, which blows right into the palace-windows, operates -as a powerful whet, for I never beheld eaters or eateresses, no not even -our old acquaintance madame la Présidente at Paris, lay about them with -greater intrepidity. To be sure, it was a splendid repast, quite a -banquet. We had manjar branco and manjar real, and among other good -things a certain preparation of rice and chicken, which suited me -exactly, and no wonder, for this excellent mess had been just tossed up -by Donna Isabel de Castro with her own illustrious hands, in a nice -little<a name="page_vol_2_2245" id="page_vol_2_2245"></a> kitchen adjoining the queen’s apartment, in which all the -utensils are of solid silver.</p> - -<p>The number of lights upon the table, and of attendants and pages in rich -uniforms around it, was prodigious; but what interested me far more than -all this parade, was the sportive good-humour and frankness of the -company. How it happened that the presence of a stranger failed to -inspire any reserve, is one of those odd circumstances I can hardly -account for; especially as the higher orders of the Portuguese are the -farthest removed of all persons from admitting any but their nearest -relations to these family parties; but so it was, and I felt both -flattered and gratified at being permitted to witness the ease and -hilarity which prevailed.</p> - -<p>The dutiful, affectionate attention of the younger part of the company -to their parents was truly amiable; nor do I believe that, at this day -in any other realm in Europe, the sacred precept of honouring your -father and your mother is so cordially observed as in Portugal. Happy -if, in our intercourse with that nation, we had profited in that respect -by their example; the peace of so many of<a name="page_vol_2_2246" id="page_vol_2_2246"></a> our noblest families would -not have been disturbed by the lowest connexions, nor their best blood -contaminated by matches of the most immoral, degrading tendency. We -should not have seen one year a performer acting the part of lady this -or lady t’other upon the stage, and the next in the drawing-room; nor, -upon entering some of our principal houses, have been tempted to cry -out—“Bless me! that lovely countenance is the same I recollect adoring -by moonlight on the fine broad flagstones of Bond Street or Portland -Place!”<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p> - -<p>It was now after two in the morning, and I must own, notwithstanding the -good cheer of which I had participated, and the kind entertainment I had -received, I began to feel a little tired. The children were in such -spirits, so full of frolic, and her sublimity, the Camareira-mor, so -unusually tolerant and condescending,<a name="page_vol_2_2247" id="page_vol_2_2247"></a> that there was no knowing when -the party would break up. Taking, therefore, my leave in due form, I -made my retreat escorted by half-a-dozen torch-bearers.</p> - -<p>Just as I had gotten about half-way on my journey through what appeared -to me interminable passages, I was arrested in my progress by a pair of -dominicans, father Rocha, and his scarecrow satellite frè Josè do -Rosario. A person less accustomed than I had lately been to such -apparitions would have been startled; especially, too, if he had found -himself like me between the most formidable living pillars of the holy -inquisition.</p> - -<p>“What are you doing here so very late,” I could not help exclaiming, “my -reverend fathers? What’s the matter?”</p> - -<p>“The matter is,” answered Rocha, with a voice of terrific hoarseness, -“that we have caught cold waiting for you in these confounded corridors. -The archbishop, above half-an-hour ago, commanded us to bring you to him -dead or alive; but a rascally jackanapes in waiting upon her excellency -the Camareira-mor would not let us in to deliver our message,<a name="page_vol_2_2248" id="page_vol_2_2248"></a> so we -have been airing ourselves hitherto to no purpose.”</p> - -<p>“Do you know,” said Rocha, taking me into a little room where a lamp was -still burning, “that affairs do not go on so smoothly as they ought? The -archbishop seems to have lost both time and temper since he has been -pressed into the cabinet; and, as for the Prince of Brazil and his -consort, God forgive me for wishing their advisers and all their -intrigues in the lowest abyss of perdition. How can you be scheming a -journey to Madrid at this season? The floods are out, and the robbers -also, and I tell you what, as the archbishop says twenty times a day, if -you do go you deserve to be drowned and murdered.”</p> - -<p>“The die is cast,” I replied, “and I must take my chance; but really I -wish you would have the goodness to bid the archbishop a very good night -in my name, and let me put off asking his benediction till to-morrow, -for I am quite jaded.”</p> - -<p>“Jaded or not,” answered the monk, “you must come with me; the wind is -up in the archbishop’s brain just at this moment, and by the least -contradiction more would become a hurricane.<a name="page_vol_2_2249" id="page_vol_2_2249"></a>”</p> - -<p>Finding resistance vain, I suffered myself to be conducted through two -or three open courts, very refreshing at this hour you may suppose, and -up a little staircase into the archbishop’s interior cabinet. All was -still as death—no lay-brother bustling about—no sound audible but a -low breathing, which now and then swelled into a half suppressed groan, -from the agitated prelate, whom we found knee-deep in papers, immersed -in thought.</p> - -<p>“So,” said he, “there you are at last. What have you been doing all this -while? Who but a brute of an Englishman would have kept me waiting. Ay, -ay, you told me how it would be, and you are right. They plague my soul -out. We have twenty rascals pulling as many ways. Your people too are -not what they used to be, though Mello would make us believe to the -contrary. One thing I know for certain, some infernal mischief is -afloat, and unless God’s grace is speedily manifested, I see no end to -confusion, and wish myself anywhere but where I am. These -smooth-tongued, Frenchified, Italian, Voltaireists and encyclopedians -have poisoned all sound doctrine. Ay,” continued he, rising up, with an -expression of indignation and anger I<a name="page_vol_2_2250" id="page_vol_2_2250"></a> never saw before on his -countenance, “somebody’s ears<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> are poisoned whom I could name.... But -where is the use of talking to you? You are determined to leave us, be -it so. God’s providence is above all. He knows what is best for you, and -for me, and for these kingdoms. There is your passport, countersigned by -your friend Mello; and here is a letter for Lorenzana, and another for -his catholic majesty’s confessor, in which I tell him what an amazing -fool you are, and unless you continue one without any remission, we -shall soon have you back again. Tell Marialva,” he added, addressing -himself to Rocha (for the other father had not been admitted), “tell -Marialva and all his friends that<a name="page_vol_2_2251" id="page_vol_2_2251"></a> I have dried up my tongue almost more -times than one, in attempting to argue a thousand silly whimsies and -crotchets out of his harum-scarum English brain; but come,” said he, -extending his arms, “I bear no malice, I pity, I do not condemn. Let me -give you an embrace, and pray God it may not be the last you will -receive from me.”</p> - -<p>It was, alas! the last I ever received from him, poor, honest-hearted, -kind old man! A sort of melancholy foreboding which seemed to pervade -all he said in this interview was too soon realized. The fatal tide of -events flowing on as it were with redoubled, tremendous velocity, swept -away in the course of a few short months from this period the Prince of -Brazil, the lovely and amiable infanta his sister, her husband Don -Gabriel of Spain, and the good old King Charles the Third. Not long -after, the archbishop-confessor himself was called from the plenitude of -power and the enjoyment of unrivalled influence to the presence of that -Being in whose sight “no man living shall be justified;” but as in many -trying and peculiar instances he had shown the tenderest mercy, it may -tremblingly be hoped that mercy has been shown to him. Notwithstanding<a name="page_vol_2_2252" id="page_vol_2_2252"></a> -the bluntness of his manner, the kindness of his heart, so apparent in -his good-humoured, benevolent eye, found its way, almost imperceptibly -to himself, to the hearts of others, and tempered the despotic roughness -he sometimes assumed both in voice and gesture.</p> - -<p>I still seem to behold the last, earnest, solemn look he gave me when, -the door closing, he retired to the cares of state, and I with my escort -of torch-bearers and dominicans hastened forth to breathe the open air, -of which I stood greatly in need. Many things I had heard, and many -others I conjectured, above all, the reluctance I felt at the bottom of -my heart to leave a country in which I had received such uncommon marks -of friendship, bore heavily upon me. When I got home, scarcely two hours -before daybreak, and tried to compose myself to sleep, I was neither -refreshed nor recruited, but experienced the agitation of feverish and -broken slumbers.<a name="page_vol_2_2253" id="page_vol_2_2253"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XXXIV-port" id="LETTER_XXXIV-port"></a>LETTER XXXIV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.—Awful music by Perez and -Jomelli.—Marialva’s affecting address.—My sorrow and anxiety.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">26th Nov. 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>WENT</small> to the church of the Martyrs to hear the matins of Perez and the -dead mass of Jomelli performed by all the principal musicians of the -royal chapel for the repose of the souls of their deceased predecessors. -Such august, such affecting music I never heard, and perhaps may never -hear again; for the flame of devout enthusiasm burns dim in almost every -part of Europe, and threatens total extinction in a very few years. As -yet it glows at Lisbon, and produced this day the most striking musical -effect.</p> - -<p>Every individual present seemed penetrated with the spirit of those -awful words which Perez and Jomelli have set with tremendous<a name="page_vol_2_2254" id="page_vol_2_2254"></a> sublimity. -Not only the music, but the serious demeanour of the performers, of the -officiating priests, and indeed of the whole congregation, was -calculated to impress a solemn, pious terror of the world beyond the -grave. The splendid decoration of the church was changed into mourning, -the tribunes hung with black, and a veil of gold and purple thrown over -the high altar. In the midst of the choir stood a catafalque surrounded -with tapers in lofty candelabra, a row of priests motionless on each -side. There was an awful silence for several minutes, and then began the -solemn service of the dead. The singers turned pale as they sang, “Timor -mortis me conturbat.”</p> - -<p>After the requiem, the high mass of Jomelli, in commemoration of the -deceased, was performed; that famous composition which begins with a -movement imitative of the tolling of bells,</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Swinging slow with sullen roar.”<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">These deep, majestic sounds, mingled with others like the cries for -mercy of unhappy beings, around whom the shadows of death and the pains -of hell were gathering, shook<a name="page_vol_2_2255" id="page_vol_2_2255"></a> every nerve in my frame, and called up in -my recollection so many affecting images, that I could not refrain from -tears.</p> - -<p>I scarcely knew how I was conveyed to the palace, where Marialva -expected my coming with the utmost impatience. Our conversation took a -most serious turn. He entreated me not to forget Portugal, to meditate -upon the awful service I had been hearing, and to remember he should not -die in peace unless I was present to close his eyes.</p> - -<p>In the actual tone of my mind I was doubly touched by this melancholy, -affectionate address. It seemed to cut through my soul, and I execrated -Verdeil and all those who had been instrumental in persuading me to -abandon such a friend. The grand prior wept bitterly at seeing my -agitation. Marialva went to the queen, and the grand prior home with me. -We dined alone; my heart was full of heaviness, and I could not eat. At -night we returned to the palace, and there all my sorrow and anxiety was -renewed.<a name="page_vol_2_2256" id="page_vol_2_2256"></a></p> - -<p><a name="page_vol_2_2257" id="page_vol_2_2257"></a></p> - -<p><a name="page_vol_2_2258" id="page_vol_2_2258"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="SPAIN" id="SPAIN"></a>SPAIN.</h2> - -<p><a name="page_vol_2_2259" id="page_vol_2_2259"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_I-spn" id="LETTER_I-spn"></a>LETTER I.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Embark on the Tagus.—Aldea Gallega.—A poetical postmaster.—The -church.—Leave Aldea Gallega.—Scenery on the road.—Palace built -by John the Fifth.—Ruins at Montemor.—Reach Arroyolos.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Wednesday, Nov. 28th, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> winds are reposing themselves, and the surface of the Tagus has all -the smoothness of a mirror. The clouds are dispersing, for it rained -heavily in the night, and the sun tinging the distant mountains of -Palmella. Charming weather for crossing to Aldea Gallega, that self-same -village in whose praises Baretti launches out with so much luxuriance. -Horne and his nephew accompanied me to the stairs of Pampulha, where the -old marquis’s scalera<a name="page_vol_2_2260" id="page_vol_2_2260"></a> was waiting for me, with eight-and-twenty rowers -in their bright scarlet accoutrements.</p> - -<p>Beggars innumerable, blind, dumb, and scabby, followed me almost into -the water. No beggars equal those of Portugal for strength of lungs, -luxuriance of sores, profusion of vermin, variety and arrangement of -tatters, and dauntless perseverance. Several clocks were striking one -when we pushed off from the shore, and in a few minutes less than two -hours we found ourselves at Aldea Gallega, four leagues from Lisbon. -Vast numbers of boats and skiffs passed us in the course of our -navigation, which I should have thought highly agreeable in other -circumstances; but I felt oppressed and melancholy; the thoughts of my -separation from the Marialvas bearing heavily on my mind. Nor could the -grand prospects of the river, and its shores, crowded with convents, -towers, and palaces, remove this dead cold weight a single instant.</p> - -<p>The sun having sunk into watery clouds, the expanse of the Tagus wore a -dismal, leaden-coloured aspect. Lisbon was cast into shade, and the huge -mass of the convent of San Vicente, crowning an eminence, looked dark -and<a name="page_vol_2_2261" id="page_vol_2_2261"></a> solemn. The low shores of Aldea Gallega are pleasant and woody; -many varieties of the tulip, the iris, and other bulbous roots, already -springing up under the protection of spreading pines.</p> - -<p>Instead of going to a swinish, stinking estellagem, my courier, Martinho -de mello’s prime favourite, and the one he employs upon the most -confidential negociations, conducted me to the postmaster’s; a neat, -snug habitation, where I found very tolerable accommodations, and dined -in the midst of a vapour of burnt lavender, that was near depriving us -of all appetite.</p> - -<p>Before I sat down to table, I wrote to M——, and sent my letter by the -return of the scalera. It was not without difficulty I wrote then, or -write at present, for my kind host, the postmaster, has not only the -same age, but equal glibness of tongue as the abade. They were -cotemporary at Coimbra, and their tongues have kept pace with each other -these eighty years. The postmaster is blessed with a most tenacious -memory, and having been a mighty reader of operas, serenatas, sonnets, -and romances, seemed to sweat verses at every pore. For three hours he -gave neither himself nor us any respite, but spouted whole volleys of<a name="page_vol_2_2262" id="page_vol_2_2262"></a> -Metastasio, till he was black in the face. Having washed down the heroic -sentiments of Megacle, Artaserse, and Demetrio with a dish of tea, he -fell to quoting Spanish and Latin authors, Ovid, Seneca, Lopez de Vega, -Calderon, with the same volubility.</p> - -<p>As millers sleep sound to the click of their mill, so I, at the end of -the two hours’ gabbling, was perfectly well-seasoned, and let him run on -with the most resigned composure, writing and reading as unconcernedly -as if in a convent of Carthusians.</p> - -<p class="rht">Thursday, November 29th.</p> - -<p>T<small>HERE</small> was a continual racket in the house and about the street-door all -night. At four o’clock the baggage-carts set forth, with a tremendous -jingling of bells. The morning was so soft and vernal, that we drank our -chocolate on the veranda, which commands a wild rural view of shrubby -fields and scattered pines, terminated by a long range of blue hills, -most picturesquely varied in form, if not in colour.</p> - -<p>After breakfast I went to the church, which Colmenar pretends is -magnificently gilt and ornamented; but which, in fact, can boast no<a name="page_vol_2_2263" id="page_vol_2_2263"></a> -other decoration than a few shabby altars, displaying the images of -Nossa Senhora, and the patron saint, in tinselled garments of faded -taffeta. I knelt on a mouldy pavement, and felt a chill wind issuing -from between the crevices of loose grave-stones, that returned a hollow -sound when I rose up and walked over them. A priest, who was saying -mass, officiated with uncommon slowness and solemnity. It was hardly -light in the recesses of the chapels.</p> - -<p>Soon after eight o’clock we left Aldea Gallega, and ploughed through -deep furrows of sand at the sober rate of two miles and a half in an -hour. On both sides of the heavy road the eye ranges uninterrupted, -except by the stems of starveling pines, through a boundless extent of -barren country, overgrown with stunted ilex and gum-cistus. The same -scenery lasted without any variation full five leagues, to the venta de -Pegoens, where I am now writing, in a long dismal room, with plastered -walls, a damp brick-floor, and cracked window-shutters. A pack of -half-famished dogs are leaping around me, their eyes ready to start out -of their sockets and their ribs out of their skin.</p> - -<p>After dining upon the provisions we brought<a name="page_vol_2_2264" id="page_vol_2_2264"></a> with us, of which the -yelping generation enjoyed no inconsiderable share, we proceeded through -sandy wilds diversified alone by pines. Not a single habitation -occurred, till by a glimmering dubious starlight, for it was now -half-past seven, we discovered the extensive front of a palace, built in -the year 1729, by John the fifth, for the accommodation of the infanta -of Spain, who married his son, the late king D. Josè. Here we were to -lodge, and I was rather surprised, upon entering a long suite of -well-proportioned apartments, to find doors and windows still capable of -being shut and opened, large chimneys guiltless of smoking out of their -right channel, and painted ceilings without cracks or crevices.</p> - -<p>A young priest, neither deficient in manners nor erudition, the keeper -of this solitary palace, did his utmost to make our stay in it -agreeable. By his attention, we had some chairs and tables placed by a -blazing fire, which I worshipped with all the fervour of an ancient -Persian. I had need of this consolation, being much disordered by the -tiresome dragging of our heavy coach through heaps of sand, and -depressed with feverish shiverings.<a name="page_vol_2_2265" id="page_vol_2_2265"></a></p> - -<p class="rht">Friday, November 30th.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was a long while last night before I composed myself to sleep, and -being called at the first dawn, I rose, if possible, more indisposed -than when I lay down; I could scarcely swallow any refreshment, and kept -walking disconsolately through the vast range of naked apartments, till -the rays of the rising sun entered the windows. The horizon glowed with -ruddy clouds. The vast desert levels, discovered from the balconies of -the palace, gleamed with dewy verdure. I hastened out to breathe the -fresh morning air, impregnated with the perfume of a thousand aromatic -shrubs and opening flowers. I could not believe it was the last day of -November, but fancied I had slept away the winter, and was just awakened -in the month of May.</p> - -<p>To enjoy these fragrant breezes in full liberty, I left our carriage to -drag along as slowly as the mules pleased, and the muleteers to smoke -their cigarros as deliberately as they thought proper; and mounting my -horse, rode the best part of the way to Montemor; which is built on the -acclivity of a mountain, and surrounded on every side by groves of -olives.<a name="page_vol_2_2266" id="page_vol_2_2266"></a> The whole face of the country is covered by the same -vegetation, and, of course, presents no very cheerful appearance.</p> - -<p>About a mile from Montemor we crossed a clear river, whose banks are -thick-set with poplars, and a light, airy species of broom, intermixed -with indian-fig, and laurustine in full blossom. The bees were swarming -amongst the flowers, and filling the air with their hum.</p> - -<p>Whilst our dinner was preparing we climbed up the green slopes of a -lofty hill, to some ruins on its summit; and passing under a narrow arch -discovered a broad flight of steps, which lead to a very ancient church -of gothic uncouth architecture: the pavement almost entirely composed of -sepulchral slabs and brasses. As we walked on a platform before the -entrance, the sun shone so fiercely that we were glad to descend the -eminence on its shadiest side, and take refuge in a cavern-like -apartment of the estallagem, very damp and dingy; but in which, however, -an excellent dinner awaited our arrival.</p> - -<p>We set out at two in a blaze of sunshine, so cheerful and reviving, that -I got once more on horseback, and never dismounted till I reached<a name="page_vol_2_2267" id="page_vol_2_2267"></a> -Arroyolos. Just as we came in sight of this ugly old town, which, like -Montemor, crowns the summit of a rocky eminence, it fell totally dark; -but the postmaster coming forth with torches, lighted us through several -winding alleys to his house. I found some pleasant apartments amply -furnished, and richly carpeted, and had the comfort of settling myself -by a crackling fire, writing to the whole circle of the Marialvas, and -drinking tea without being attacked by quotations of Virgil and -Metastasio.<a name="page_vol_2_2268" id="page_vol_2_2268"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_II-spn" id="LETTER_II-spn"></a>LETTER II.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A wild tract of forest-land.—Arrival at Estremoz.—A fair.—An -outrageous sermon.—Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.—Elvas.—Our -reception there.—My visiters.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Saturday, December 1st, 1787.</p> - -<p>H<small>ITHERTO</small> I have had no reason to complain of my accommodations in -travelling through Portugal. A mandate from the governor procured me -milk this morning for my breakfast, much against the will of the -proprietor, who had a great inclination to keep all to himself. The idea -of its being squeezed out by force, persuaded me that it had a very sour -taste, and I hardly touched it.</p> - -<p>I laid in a stock of carpets for my journey, of strange grotesque -patterns and glaring colours, the produce of a manufactory in this town, -which employs about three hundred persons. Methinks I begin to write as -dully as<a name="page_vol_2_2269" id="page_vol_2_2269"></a> Major W. Dalrymple, whose dry journal of travels through a -part of Spain I had the misfortune of reading in the coach this morning, -as we jogged and jolted along the dreary road between Arroyolos and -Venta do Duque.</p> - -<p>We passed a wild tract of forest-land, and saw numerous herds of swine -luxuriously scratching themselves against the rugged bark of cork-trees, -and routing up the moss at their roots in search of acorns. Venta do -Duque is a sty right worthy of being the capital of hoggish dominions. -It can boast, however, of a chimney, which, giving us the opportunity of -making a fire, rendered our stay in it less intolerable.</p> - -<p>The evening turned out cloudy and cold. Before we arrived at Estremoz, -another city on a hill, better and farther seen than it merits, it began -to rain with a vengeance. I hear it splashing and driving this moment in -the puddles which lie in the vast, forlorn market-place, at one end of -which our posada is situated. For Portugal, this posada is by no means -indifferent; the walls and ceilings have been neatly whitewashed, and -here are chairs and tables. My carpets are of essential service in<a name="page_vol_2_2270" id="page_vol_2_2270"></a> -protecting my feet from the damp brick-floors. I have spread them all -round my bed, and they make a flaming exotic appearance.</p> - -<p class="rht">Sunday, December 2nd.</p> - -<p>W<small>HEN</small> I opened my eyes about seven in the morning, the sky was still -dismal and lowering; and a crowd of human figures, enveloped in dark -capotes, were just issuing from several dens and lurking-places on each -side the entrance of the posada. A fair, which was held to-day, had -drawn them together, and they were lamenting in chorus the rainy -weather, which prevented the display of their rural finery. Most of -these good people had passed the night in the stables of the posada. As -I came down stairs, I saw several of their companions of both sexes -lying about like the killed and wounded on a field of battle; or, to use -a less fatal comparison, like the dead-drunk during a contested election -in England.</p> - -<p>From the windows of the posada I looked down on a vast opening a -thousand feet in breadth, surrounded by irregular buildings; amongst -which I could not discover any of<a name="page_vol_2_2271" id="page_vol_2_2271"></a> those handsome edifices adorned with -marble columns, some travelling scribblers mention in terms of the -highest commendation. The marble tower, too, they describe, built by Don -Deniz, has totally lost its polish, if true it is it ever had any.</p> - -<p>Hard by the posada is a little chapel, to which I repaired as soon as I -had breakfasted, and heard an outrageous sermon preached by a -grey-headed, fiery-eyed capuchin, to a troop of blubbering females.</p> - -<p>As it did not positively rain, but only drizzled, after the fashion of -my own dear native country, I rode part of the way to Elvas, and -traversed boundless wastes of gum-cistus, whose dark-green casts a -melancholy shade over the face of the country. A mile or two from Elvas, -the scene changes to a forest of olives, with fountains by the wayside, -and avenues of poplars, which were not yet deprived of their foliage. -Above their summits tower the arches of an aqueduct, supported by strong -buttresses, and presenting, when seen in perspective, an appearance, in -some points of view, not unlike that of a ruined gothic cathedral. The -ramparts<a name="page_vol_2_2272" id="page_vol_2_2272"></a> of Elvas are laid out and planted much in the style of our -English gardens, and form very delightful walks.</p> - -<p>Upon entering the town, which seems populous and thriving, we were -conducted to a very clean neat house, prepared for our reception by -order of the governor, Monsieur de Vallarè. A dignified sort of a page, -or groom of the chambers, in a blue coat richly laced, and the order of -St. Jago dangling at his buttonhole, stood ready at the door to show us -up stairs, and, according to the Portuguese system of politeness, never -quitted our elbows a single moment.</p> - -<p>I had hardly reconnoitred my new apartments, before Monsieur de Vallarè -was announced. He brought with him the Abade Correa, one of the -luminaries of modern Portuguese literature, whose conversation afforded -me great amusement. We sallied out together to visit the fortifications, -the stables for the cavalry, and barracks for the soldiers, which are -all in admirable order; thanks to the governor, who is indefatigable in -his exertions, and retains at a very experienced age the agility of -five-and-twenty. I was delighted with his<a name="page_vol_2_2273" id="page_vol_2_2273"></a> cheerful, military frankness, -and unaffected attentions. He told me, he had stood the fire of our -formidable column at Fontenoy, and never enjoyed himself so much in his -life, as in the smoke and havoc of that furious engagement.</p> - -<p>From one of the bastions to which he conducted us, we had a distinct -view of the fort de la Lippe, erected at an enormous expense on the -summit of a woody mountain. Had the weather been fine, it might have -tempted me to climb up to it; but showers beginning to descend, I -preferred taking shelter in a snug apartment of the maréchal, enlivened -by a blazing pile of aromatic woods, raised up on a grate in a -christian-like manner. The abade and I drawing close to this hospitable -hearth, talked over Lisbon and its inhabitants; whilst Verdeil amused -himself with scrutinizing some minerals the maréchal had collected, and -which lay scattered about his room.</p> - -<p>In these occupations the time passed till supper. We had pork delicately -flavoured, exquisite quails, and salads, prepared in different manners, -the most delicious I ever tasted.<a name="page_vol_2_2274" id="page_vol_2_2274"></a> Our conversation was lively and -unrestrained; Correa has an originality of genius and freedom of -sentiment, which the terrors of the inquisition have not yet -extinguished.<a name="page_vol_2_2275" id="page_vol_2_2275"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_III-spn" id="LETTER_III-spn"></a>LETTER III.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.—A muleteer’s -enthusiasm.—Badajoz.—The cathedral.—Journey resumed.—A vast -plain.—Village of Lubaon.—Withered hags.—Names and characters of -our mules.—Posada at Merida.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Monday, Dec. 3rd, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> maréchal and the abade breakfasted with me, but the rain prevented -my taking another walk about the fortifications, and seeing the troops -go through their exercise. At ten we set off, well escorted, traversed a -dismal plain, and passed a rivulet which separates the two kingdoms. No -sooner had one of our muleteers passed this boundary, than cutting a -cross in the turf with his knife, he fell prostrate and kissed the -ground with a transport of devotion.</p> - -<p>Upon ascending the bank of the rivulet we came in sight of Badajoz and -its long narrow bridge over the Guadiana. The custom-house was all -mildness and moderation. Its harpies<a name="page_vol_2_2276" id="page_vol_2_2276"></a> have neither flown away with my -books, as Bezerra predicted, nor set their talons in my coffers. At -sight of my passport, such a one, I believe, as is not very frequently -granted, all difficulties gave way, and I was permitted to enter the -lonely, melancholy streets of Badajoz, without being stopped an instant, -or having my baggage ransacked.</p> - -<p>This circumstance, no wonder, gave me greater satisfaction than the -aspect of the town and its inhabitants, which is decidedly gloomy. Every -house almost has grated-windows, and the few human creatures that stared -at us from them, were muffled up to their noses in heavy mantles of the -darkest colours.</p> - -<p>We continued winding half an hour in slow and solemn procession through -narrow streets and alleys, whose gutters were full to the brim, before -we reached the large dingy mansion their excellencies, the governor and -intendant, had been so gracious as to allot for my reception. Both these -personages were, providentially, laid up with agues, or else, it seems, -I should have been honoured with their company the whole evening.</p> - -<p>A mob of eyes and mantles, for neither<a name="page_vol_2_2277" id="page_vol_2_2277"></a> mouths, arms, nor scarcely legs -were discernible, assembled round the carriages the moment they halted, -and had the patience to remain in the street, silently smoking their -cigarros, the whole time I was at dinner.</p> - -<p>It was night before I rose from table, crept down stairs, and, though it -continued raining at frequent intervals, waded to the cathedral, through -much mire, and between several societies of hogs, which lay sweetly -sleeping to the murmur of dropping eaves, in the midst of gutters and -kennels.</p> - -<p>The cathedral is formed by three aisles of equal breadth, supported by -pillars and arches, in a tolerably good pointed style. Several lofty -chapels open into them, with solemn gates of iron. In the centre of the -middle aisle some bungling architect has awkwardly stuck the choir, not -many paces from the principal entrance, and by so doing has shut out the -view of the high altar: no great loss, however, the high altar looking -little better than a huge mass of rock-work, gilt and burnished. Under -the choir is a staircase leading down to the grated entrance of a vault. -Lamps were burning before many of the altars, and they distributed<a name="page_vol_2_2278" id="page_vol_2_2278"></a> a -faint light throughout the whole edifice.</p> - -<p>I paced silently to and fro in the aisles, whilst the canons were -chaunting vespers. The choristers still retain the same dress in which -St. Anthony is represented, in the picture which hung by the miraculous -cross he indented when flying the persecutions of Satan. There was a -solemnity in the glimmer of the lamps, the gloomy, indefinite depth of -the chapels, and the darkness of the vault beneath the choir, that -affected me. I passed a very uncomfortable evening, and a worse night.</p> - -<p class="rht">Tuesday, Dec. 4.</p> - -<p>N<small>OT</small> a wink of sleep did the musquitos allow me. I was glad to call for -lights at four, and was still happier to step into the coach at five; -from that hour to half-past-eight I contrived to slumber in a feverish, -agitated manner, that did me little good.</p> - -<p>When I opened my eyes, I found myself traversing a vast plain as level -as the ocean. In summer, this waste must convey none but ideas of -sterility and desolation; at present, a fresh verdure, browsed by -numerous flocks, rendered<a name="page_vol_2_2279" id="page_vol_2_2279"></a> its appearance tolerable. The sheep, which -are large and thriving, have fleeces as long and as silky as the hair of -a barbet, combed every day by the hands of its mistress. I observed -numbers of lambs of the most shining whiteness, with black ears and -noses; just such neat little animals as those I remember to have seen in -the era of Dresden china, at the feet of smirking shepherdesses.</p> - -<p>We dined at a village of mud cottages, called Lubaon, situated on some -rising ground, about eighteen miles from Badajoz, whose inhabitants seem -to have attained the last stage of poverty and wretchedness. Two or -three withered hags, that even in the prophet Habakkuk’s resurrection of -dry bones, would have attracted attention, laid hold of me the moment I -got out of the carriage. I thought the cold hand of the weird sisters -was giving me a gripe; and trembled lest, whether I would or not, I -might hear some fatal prediction. To get out of their way I flew to the -church, an old gothic building, placed on the edge of a steep, which -shelves almost perpendicularly down to the banks of the Guadiana, and -took sanctuary in its porch. There I remained till<a name="page_vol_2_2280" id="page_vol_2_2280"></a> summoned to dinner, -listening to the murmur of the distant river flowing round sandy -islands.</p> - -<p>I won the hearts of my muleteers by caressing their mules, and inquiring -with a respectful earnestness their names and characters. Capitana may -be depended upon in cases of labour and difficulty; Valerosa is skittish -and enterprising; Pelerina rather sluggish and cowardly; but la -Commissaria unites every mulish perfection; is tractable, steady, and -sure-footed, and at the same time (to use the identical expression of my -calasero) the greatest driver of dirt before her in the universe. She is -certainly an animal of uncommon resolution; and when tired to death by -the slow paces of her companions, how often have I wished myself -abandoned to her guidance in a light two-wheeled chaise.</p> - -<p>We left Lubaon at half-past two, and, as I had the happiness of sleeping -almost the whole way to Merida, can give little account of the country.</p> - -<p>I was hardly awake, when we entered the posada at Merida, and started -back, dazzled with an illumination of wax-lights, solemnly<a name="page_vol_2_2281" id="page_vol_2_2281"></a> stuck in -sconces all round a lofty room, with glaring white walls, as if I had -been expected to lie in state. In the middle of the apartment stood a -large brasier, full of glowing embers, exhaling so strong a perfume of -rosemary and lavender, that my head swam, and I reeled like a drunkard. -But as soon as this vile machine was removed, I sat down to write in -peace and comfort.<a name="page_vol_2_2282" id="page_vol_2_2282"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IV-spn" id="LETTER_IV-spn"></a>LETTER IV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Arrival at Miaxadas.—Monotonous singing.—Dismal -country.—Truxillo.—A rainy morning.—Resume our journey.—Immense -wood of cork-trees.—Almaraz.—Reception by the escrivano.—A -terrific volume.—Village of Laval de Moral.—Range of lofty -mountains.—Calzada.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Wednesday, Dec. 5th, 1787.</p> - -<p>A<small>BOUT</small> five leagues from Merida we stopped at a hovel too wretched to -afford shelter even to our mules. The situation, amidst green hills -scattered over with picturesque ilex, is not unpleasant; and such was -the mildness of the day, that we spread our table on a knoll, and dined -in the open air, surrounded by geese and asses, to whom I distributed -ample slices of water-melons. From this spot three short leagues brought -us to Miaxadas, where we arrived at night. Its inhabitants were gathered -in clusters at their doors, each holding a lamp, and crying, “Biva! -Biva!”</p> - -<p>Instead of entering a dirty posada, my courier<a name="page_vol_2_2283" id="page_vol_2_2283"></a> ushered me into a sort -of gallery, with a handsome arched roof, matted all over, and set round -with gilt chairs. The donna de la casa made very low obeisances, not -without great primness, and her maids sang tirannas with a wailful -monotony that wore my very soul out.</p> - -<p class="rht">Thursday, Dec. 6th.</p> - -<p>S<small>OAKING</small> rain and dismal country, thick strewn with fragments of rock. -Mountains wrapped in mists,—here and there a few green spots studded -with mushrooms. We went seven leagues without stopping, and reached -Truxillo by four. It was this gloomy city, situated on a black eminence, -that gave birth to the ruthless Pizarro, the scourge of the Peruvians, -and the murderer of Atabaliba. We were lodged in a very tolerable -posada, unmolested by speech-makers, and heard no noise but the -trickling of showers.</p> - -<p class="rht">Friday, Dec. 7th.</p> - -<p>I <small>WAS</small> awakened at five: the gutters were pouring, and all the -water-spouts of Truxillo streaming with rain. An hour and a half did<a name="page_vol_2_2284" id="page_vol_2_2284"></a> I -pass in a ghostly twilight, my candles being packed up, and all the oil -of the house expended. It required great exertion on the part of my -vigilant courier to prevail on our hulky muleteers to expose themselves -to the bad weather.</p> - -<p>At length, with much ado, we rumbled out of Truxillo, and after -traversing for the space of two leagues the nakedest and most dreary -region I ever beheld, a faint gleam of sunshine melted the deadly white -of the thick clouds which hung over us, and the horizon brightening up, -we discovered a wood of cork-trees interspersed with lawns extending as -far as the eye could stretch itself. These green spots continued to -occur our whole way to Saraseços. There we halted, dined in haste at not -half so wretched a posada as I had been taught to expect, and continuing -our route, the sky clearing, ascended a mountain, from whose brow we -looked down on a valley variegated with patches of ploughed land, wild -shrubberies, and wandering rivulets.</p> - -<p>We had not much time to feast our eyes with this pastoral prospect; the -clouds soon rolled over it, and we found ourselves in a<a name="page_vol_2_2285" id="page_vol_2_2285"></a> damp fog. The -rest of our journey to Almaraz was a total blank; we saw nothing and -heard nothing, and arrived at the place of our destination in perfect -health and stupidity.</p> - -<p>The escrivano, who is the judge and jury of the village, was so kind as -to accommodate us with his house, and so polite as not to incommode us -with his presence. He is a holy man, and a strenuous advocate for the -immaculate conception, no less than three large folios upon that -mysterious subject lying about in his apartment.</p> - -<p class="rht">Saturday, Dec. 8th.</p> - -<p>W<small>HILST</small> the muleteers were harnessing their beasts together with rotten -cords, I took up a little old book of my pious host’s, full of the most -dismal superstitions, entitled <i>Espeio de Cristal fino, y Antorcha que -aviva el alma</i>, and read in it till I was benumbed with horror. Many -pages are engrossed with a description of the state into which the -author imagines we are plunged immediately after death. The body he -supposes conscious of all that befalls it in the grave, of exchanging -its warm, comfortable habitation for the cold, pestilential soil<a name="page_vol_2_2286" id="page_vol_2_2286"></a> of a -churchyard, conscious that its friends have abandoned it for ever, and -of its inability to call them back; to be sensible of the approaches and -progress of the most loathsome corruption, and to hear the voice of an -accusing angel, recapitulating its offences, and summoning it to the -judgment of God. The book ends with a vehement exhortation to repent -while there is yet time, and to procure by fervent prayer, and ample -donations to religious communities, the intercession of the host of -martyrs and of Nuestra Señora. I can easily conceive these scarecrow -publications of infinite use in frightening three parts of mankind out -of their senses, prolonging the reign, and swelling the coffers of the -clergy.</p> - -<p>The horrid images I had seen in this (Espeio) mirror haunted my fancy -for several hours. To dissipate them I mounted my horse, and eagerly -inhaled the fresh breezes that blew over springing herbage, and wastes -of lavender. The birds were singing, the clouds dividing, and -discovering long tracts of soft blue sky. I galloped gaily along a level -country, interspersed with woods of ilex, to the village of Laval de -Moral, where the inhabitants were<a name="page_vol_2_2287" id="page_vol_2_2287"></a> most devoutly employed in their -churches conciliating the favour of the madonna by keeping holy the -festival of the immaculate conception. There the coach coming up with -me, I got in; and the mules dragging it along at a rate which in the -days of my fire and fury would have made me thump out its bottom with -impatience, I fell into a resigned slumber, and am ignorant of every -object between Laval de Moral and Calzada, in sight of which town I -awoke near five in the evening.</p> - -<p>The sun was setting in a sea of molten gold, and tinging the snows of a -range of lofty mountains, which I discovered for the first time bounding -our horizon. I might have seen them before most probably, had they not -remained till this evening wrapped up in rainy vapours.</p> - -<p>It is at their base the Escurial is situated. I had the consolation of -stepping out of the coach at Calzada into a house with cheerful, neat -apartments, with an open gallery, where I walked contemplating the red -streams of light, and brilliant skirted clouds of the western sky, till -dinner came upon table. Though the doors and windows were all wide open, -I suffered no<a name="page_vol_2_2288" id="page_vol_2_2288"></a> inconvenience worth mentioning from cold. The master of -the house, a portly, pompous barber-surgeon, most firm in his belief of -the supremacy of Spain over every country in the universe, confessed, -however, the weather was uncommonly warm, and that so mild a month of -December was rather extraordinary.<a name="page_vol_2_2289" id="page_vol_2_2289"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_V-spn" id="LETTER_V-spn"></a>LETTER V.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Sierra de los Gregos.—Mass.—Oropeza.—Talavera—Drawling -tirannas.—Talavera de la Reyna.—Reception at Santa Olaya.—The -lady of the house, and her dogs and dancers.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sunday, December 9th, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> mountains I saw yesterday are called the Sierra de los Gregos, and -the winds that blow over their summits begin to chill the atmosphere; -but the sun is shining gloriously, and not a cloud obscures his -effulgence. The stars were still twinkling in the firmament, when I was -attracted to mass in the large gloomy church of a nunnery, by the voices -of the Lord’s spouses issuing from a sepulchral grate bristled with -spikes of iron. These tremulous, plaintive sounds filled me with such -sadness, and so many recollections of interesting hours departed never -to return, that I felt relieved when I found myself out of sight of<a name="page_vol_2_2290" id="page_vol_2_2290"></a> the -convent, on a cheerful road thronged with passengers.</p> - -<p>We passed Oropeza, a picturesque, Italian-looking town, on the brow of a -mountain; dined at a venda, in the midst of a savage tract of -forest-land, infamous till within this year or two for robberies and -assassinations; and reached Talavera de la Reyna by sunset.</p> - -<p>More, I believe, has been said in praise of this town than it deserves. -Its appearance is far from cheerful or elegant; and the heavy -brick-fronts of the convents and churches as ill designed as executed. -The streets, however, are crowded with people, who seem to be moving -about with rather more activity than falls to the lot of Spaniards in -general. I am told the silk-manufactories at Talavera are in a -flourishing state, and have taken a good many hands out of the folds of -their mantles.</p> - -<p>Colmenar is perpetually leading me into errors, and causing me -disappointments. He pretends that the inhabitants of this place are -nearly as skilful as those of Pekin and Macao in the manufacturing of -lacquered wares, and that their pottery is unrivalled; but, upon -inquiry, I found the Talaverans no particular<a name="page_vol_2_2291" id="page_vol_2_2291"></a> proficients in varnish, -and that they had neither a cup nor basin to produce in the least -preferable to those of other villages.</p> - -<p>In one art they are indefatigable, I can answer to my sorrow; that is, -singing drawling tirannas to the monotonous accompaniment of a sort of -hum-strum or hurdy-gurdy, or the devil knows best what sort of -instruments, for such as I hear at this moment under my windows are only -fit to be played in his dominions. I am quite at the mercy of these -untoward minstrels; if they cease not, I must defer sleeping to another -opportunity. Am I then come into Spain to hear hum-strums and -hurdy-gurdies? Where are the rapturous seguidillas, of which I have been -told such wonders? Do they exist, or, like the japanned wares of the -Talaverans, are they only to be found in books of travels and -geographical dictionaries?</p> - -<p class="rht">Monday, December 10th.</p> - -<p>I <small>BEG</small> Talavera de la Reyna a thousand pardons; it is not quite so -frightful as it appeared in the twilight of yesterday evening. Many of -the houses have a palace-like appearance, and the interior of the old -gothic cathedral, though<a name="page_vol_2_2292" id="page_vol_2_2292"></a> not remarkably spacious, has an air of -magnificence; the stalls of the choir are elaborately carved, and on -each side the high altar, curtains of the richest crimson damask fall -from the roof in ample folds, and cast a ruddy glow on the pavement.</p> - -<p>If Talavera has nothing within its walls to be much boasted of, there -are many objects in its environs that merit praise. No sooner had we -left its dark crooked streets behind us, than we discovered a thick wood -of elms skirting an extensive lawn, beautifully green and level, from -which rises the convent of Nuestra Señora del Prayo, crowned by an -octangular cupola. This edifice is built of brick encrusted with stone -ornaments, and choked up by ranges of arcades and heavy galleries. I -have seen several structures which resembled it in the neighbourhood of -Antwerp and Brussels; but whether the Spaniards carried this clumsy -style of architecture into the Low Countries, or borrowed from thence, -is scarcely worth while to determine.</p> - -<p>Not far from Nuestra Señora del Prayo we crossed the Tagus, and -continued dragging through heavy sands for five tedious hours,<a name="page_vol_2_2293" id="page_vol_2_2293"></a> without -perceiving a habitation, or meeting any animal, biped or quadruped, -except herds of swine, in which, I believe, consist the principal riches -of this part of the Spanish dominions. I doubt whether the royal sty of -Ithaca was half so well garnished, as many private ones in New Castile -and Estremadura.</p> - -<p>Having nothing to look at except a dreary plain bounded by barren, -uninteresting mountains, I was reduced to tumble over the trashy -collection of books, with which I happen in this journey to be provided; -poor fiddle-faddle Derrick’s Letters from Cork, Chester, and Tunbridge; -John Buncle, Esquire’s, life, holy rhapsodies, and peregrinations; -Shenstone’s, Mr. Whistler’s, and the good Duchess of Somerset’s -Correspondence; Bray’s tour, right worthy of an ass; Heley’s fulsome -description of the Leasowes and Hagley; Clarke’s ponderous account of -Spain; and Major Dalrymple’s dry, tiresome, and splenetic excursion. -There’s a set, equal it if you can. I hope to get a better at Madrid, -and throw my old stock into the Mançanares.</p> - -<p>We dined at a village called Brabo, not in the least worth mentioning, -and arrived in due<a name="page_vol_2_2294" id="page_vol_2_2294"></a> tiresome course, about six in the evening, at Santa -Olaya, where my courier had procured us an admirable lodging in the -house of a veteran colonel. The principal apartment, in which I pitched -my bed, was a lofty gallery, with large folding glazed doors, gilt and -varnished, its white walls almost covered with saintly pictures and -small mirrors, stuck near the ceiling, beyond the reach of mortal sight, -as if their proprietor was afraid they would wear out by being looked -into. On low tables, to the right and left of the door, stood -glass-cases, filled with relics and artificial flowers. Stools covered -with velvet, and raised not above a foot from the floor, were stationed -all round the room. On one of these I squatted like an oriental, warming -my hands over a brasier of coals.</p> - -<p>The old lady of the house, followed by a train of curtseying handmaids -and snifling lapdogs, favoured me with her company the best part of the -evening. Her spouse, the colonel, being indisposed, did not make his -appearance. Whilst she was entertaining me with a most flourishing -detail of the excellent qualities and wonderful acquisitions of the<a name="page_vol_2_2295" id="page_vol_2_2295"></a> -infant Don Louis, who died about two years ago at his villa in this -neighbourhood, some very grotesque figures entered the antechamber, and -tinkling their guitars, struck up a seguidilla, that in a minute or two -set all the feet in the house in motion. Amongst the dancers, two young -girls, whose jetty locks were braided with some degree of elegance, -shone forth in a fandango, beating the ground and snapping their fingers -with rapturous agility.</p> - -<p>This sport lasted a full hour, before they showed the least sign of -being tired; then succeeded some languorous tirannas, by no means so -delightful as I expected. I was not sorry when the ball ceased, and my -kind hostess, moving off with all her dogs and dancers, left me to sup -and sleep in tranquillity.<a name="page_vol_2_2296" id="page_vol_2_2296"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VI-spn" id="LETTER_VI-spn"></a>LETTER VI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Dismal plains.—Santa Cruz.—Val de Carneiro.—A most determined -musical amateur.—The Alcayde Mayor.—Approach to Madrid.—Aspect -of the city.—The Calle d’Alcala.—The Prado.—The Ave-Maria bell.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Tuesday, Dec. 11th, 1787.</p> - -<p>D<small>ISMAL</small> plains and still more dismal mountains; no indication as yet of -the approach to a capital; dined at Santa Cruz; thought we should have -been flayed alive by its greedy inhabitants; arrived in the dark at Val -de Carneiro; lodged in the house of a certain Don Bernardo, passionately -fond of music. The apartment allotted to me contained no less than two -harpsichords: one of them, in a fine gilt case, very pompous and sullen, -I could scarcely prevail upon the keys to move; next it stood a very -sweet-toned modest little spinet, that responded to my touch right -willingly,<a name="page_vol_2_2297" id="page_vol_2_2297"></a> and as I happened to play some Brazilian ditties Don -Bernardo never heard before, he was so good as to be in raptures.</p> - -<p>These were becoming every minute more enthusiastic, when the arrival of -the alcayde mayor, followed by a priest or two with enormous spectacles -on their thin snipish noses, interrupted our harmonious proceedings. -This personage came expressly to pay me a visit, and to ask questions -about England and her unnatural offspring, the revolted provinces of -North America; a country which he had heard was colder and darker than -the grave, and spread all over with animals, whether biped or quadruped -he could not tell, called <i>koakeres</i>, living like beavers, in strange -huts or tabernacles of their own construction.</p> - -<p class="rht">Wednesday, Dec. 12th.</p> - -<p>D<small>ON</small> B<small>ERNARDO</small> showed me his cellars, in which are several casks capable -of holding thirty or forty hogsheads, and ranges of jars in the shape of -the antique amphoræ, ten feet high, and not less than six in diameter. -For the first time in my life I tasted the genuine Spanish<a name="page_vol_2_2298" id="page_vol_2_2298"></a> chocolate, -spiced and cinnamoned beyond all endurance. It has put my mouth in a -flame, and I do nothing but spit and sputter.</p> - -<p>The weather was so damp and foggy that we could hardly see ten yards -before us: I cannot, therefore, in conscience abuse the approach to -Madrid so much, I believe, as it deserves. About one o’clock, the -vapours beginning to dissipate, a huge mass of building, and a confused -jumble of steeples, domes, and towers, started on a sudden from the -mist. The large building I soon recognized to be the new palace. It is a -good deal in the style of Caserta, but being raised on a considerable -eminence, produces a more striking effect. At its base flows the pitiful -river Mançanares, whose banks were all of a flutter with linen hanging -out to dry.</p> - -<p>We passed through this rag-fair, between crowds of mahogany-coloured -hags, who left off thumping their linen to stare at us, and, crossing a -broad bridge over a narrow streamlet, entered Madrid by a gateway of -very indifferent architecture. The neat pavement of the streets, the -loftiness of the houses, and<a name="page_vol_2_2299" id="page_vol_2_2299"></a> the cheerful showy appearance of many of -the shops, far surpassed my expectation.</p> - -<p>Upon entering the Calle d’Alcala, a noble street, much wider than any in -London, I was still more surprised. Several magnificent palaces and -convents adorn it on both sides. At one extremity, you perceive the -trees and fountains of the Prado, and, at the other, the lofty domes of -a series of churches. We have got apartments at the Cruz de Malta, -which, though very indifferently furnished, have at least the advantage -of commanding this prospect. I passed half-an-hour after dinner in one -of the balconies, gazing upon the variety of equipages which were -rattling along. The street sloping gradually down, and being paved with -remarkable smoothness, they drove at a furious rate, the high fashion at -Madrid; where to hurry along at the risk of laming your mules, and -cracking their skulls, is to follow the example of his Majesty, than -whom no monarch drives with greater vehemence.</p> - -<p>I strolled to the Prado, and was much struck by the spaciousness of the -principal walk, the length of the avenues, and the stateliness of<a name="page_vol_2_2300" id="page_vol_2_2300"></a> the -fountains. Though the evening was damp and gloomy, a great many people -were rambling about, and a long line of carriages parading. The dress of -the ladies, the cut of their servants’ liveries, the bags of the -coachmen, and the painting of the coaches, were so perfectly Parisian, -that I fancied myself on the Boulevards, and looked in vain for those -ponderous equipages, surrounded by pages and escudeiros, one reads of in -Spanish romances. A total change has taken place, and the original -national customs are almost obliterated.</p> - -<p>Devotion, however, is not yet banished from the Prado; at the ringing of -the Ave-Maria bell, the coaches stopped, the servants took off their -hats, the ladies crossed themselves, and the foot passengers stood -motionless, muttering their orisons. There is both opera and play -to-night, I believe, but I am in no mood to go to either.<a name="page_vol_2_2301" id="page_vol_2_2301"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VII-spn" id="LETTER_VII-spn"></a>LETTER VII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.—Her apartment -described.—Her passion for music.—Her señoras de honor.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Thursday, Dec. 13th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was a heavy damp morning, and I could hardly prevail upon myself to -quit my fireside and deliver the archbishop’s most confidential -despatches to the Portuguese ambassador Don Diogo de Noronha.</p> - -<p>The ambassador being gone to the palace, I drove to the Duchess of -Berwick’s, my old acquaintance, with whom I passed so much of my time at -Paris eight years ago. Her dear spouse, so well known at Spa, Brussels, -Aix-la-Chapelle, and all the gaming-places of Europe, by the name, -style, and title of marquis of Jamaica, has been departed these five or -six months; and she is now mistress of the most splendid palace in -Madrid, of one of the first fortunes, and of the affairs of her only -son, the<a name="page_vol_2_2302" id="page_vol_2_2302"></a> present Duke of Berwick, to whom she is guardian.</p> - -<p>The façade of the palace, and the spacious court before it, pleased me -extremely. It is in the best style of modern Parisian architecture, -simple and graceful. I was conducted up a majestic staircase, adorned -with corinthian columns, and through a long suite of apartments, at the -extremity of which, in a saloon hung with embroidered India satin, sat -reclined madame la duchesse, in all her accustomed nonchalance. She -seemed never to have moved from her sofa since I last had the pleasure -of seeing her, and is exactly the same good-natured, indolent being, -free from malice or uncharitableness; I wish the world was fuller of -this harmless, quiet species.</p> - -<p>The morning passed most rapidly away in talking over rose-coloured -times; I returned home to dine, and as soon as it was dark went back -again to madame de Berwick’s, who was waiting tea for me. I like her -apartment very much, the angles are taken off by low semicircular sofas, -and the space between them and the hangings filled up with slabs of -Granadian marble, on which are placed<a name="page_vol_2_2303" id="page_vol_2_2303"></a> most beautiful porcelain vases -with mignonette and rose-trees in full bloom. The fire burnt cheerfully, -the table was drawn close to it; the duchess’s little girl, Donna -Ferdinanda, sat playing and smiling upon a dog, which she held in her -lap, and had swaddled up like an infant.</p> - -<p>Soon after tea, the young duke of Berwick and a French abbé, his -preceptor, came in and stayed with us the remainder of the evening. The -duke is only fourteen and some months, but he is taller than I am, and -as plump as the plumpest of partridges. His manners are French, and his -address as prematurely formed as his figure. Few, if any, fortunes in -Europe equal that which he enjoys, and of which he has expectations; -being heir to the house of Alba, seventy thousand a-year at least, and -in possession of the Veragua and Liria estates. These immense properties -are of course underlet, and wretchedly cultivated. If able exertions -were made in their management, his income might be doubled.</p> - -<p>Madame de Berwick has not lost her passion for music; operas and sonatas -lie scattered all over her apartment; not only singing-books<a name="page_vol_2_2304" id="page_vol_2_2304"></a> were lying -on the carpet, but singers themselves; three of her musical attendants, -a page, and two pretty little señoras de honor, having cast themselves -carelessly at her feet in the true Spanish, or rather morisco, fashion, -ready to warble forth the moment she gave the signal, which was not long -delayed, and never did I hear more soothing voices. The inspiration they -gave rise to drove me to the piano-forte, where I played and sang those -airs Madame de Berwick was so fond of in the dawn of our acquaintance; -when, thanks to her cherished indolence, she had the resignation to -listen day after day, and hour after hour, to my romantic rhapsodies. -How fervid and ecstatic was I in those days; the toy of every impulse, -the willing dupe of every gay illusion. The duchess tells me, she thinks -from the tone of our conversation in the morning, that I am now a little -sobered, and may possibly get through this thorny world without losing -my wits on its briars.<a name="page_vol_2_2305" id="page_vol_2_2305"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_VIII-spn" id="LETTER_VIII-spn"></a>LETTER VIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Chevalier de Roxas.—Excursion to the palace and gardens of the -Buen Retiro.—The Turkish Ambassador and his numerous -train.—Farinelli’s apartments.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Dec. 14th, 1785.</p> - -<p>O<small>NE</small> of the best informed and pleasantest of Spaniards, the Chevalier de -Roxas, who had been very intimate both with Verdeil and me at Lausanne, -came in a violent hurry this morning to give us a cordial embrace. He -seems to have set his heart upon showing us about Madrid, and rendering -our stay here as lively as he could make it. Fifty schemes did he -propose in half a minute, of visiting museums, churches, and public -buildings; of goings to balls, theatres, and tertullias.</p> - -<p>I took alarm at this busy prospect, drew back into my shell, and began -wishing myself in the most perfect incognito; but, alas! to no purpose, -it was all in vain.<a name="page_vol_2_2306" id="page_vol_2_2306"></a></p> - -<p>Roxas, most eager to enter upon his office of cicerone, fidgeted to the -window, observed we had still an hour or two of daylight, and proposed -an excursion to the palace and gardens of the Buen Retiro. Upon entering -the court of the palace, which is surrounded by low buildings, with -plastered fronts, sadly battered by wind and weather, I espied some -venerable figures in caftans and turbans, leaning against a doorway.</p> - -<p>My sparks of orientalism instantly burst into a flame at such a sight: -“Who are those picturesque animals?” said I to our conductor. “Is it -lawful to approach them?” “As often as you please,” answered Roxas. -“They belong to the Turkish ambassador, who is lodged, with all his -train, at the Buen Retiro, in the identical apartments once occupied by -Farinelli; where he held his state levees and opera rehearsals; drilling -ministers one day, and tenors and soprani the other: if you have a mind, -we will go up-stairs and examine the whole menagerie.”</p> - -<p>No sooner said, no sooner done. I cleared four steps at a leap, to the -great delight of his sublime excellency’s pages and attendants, and<a name="page_vol_2_2307" id="page_vol_2_2307"></a> -entered a saloon spread with the most sumptuous carpets, and perfumed -with the fragrance of the wood of aloes. In a corner of this magnificent -chamber sat the ambassador, Achmet Vassif Effendi, wrapped up in a -pelisse of the most precious sables, playing with a light cane he had in -his hand, and every now and then passing it under the noses of some -tall, handsome slaves, who were standing in a row before him. These -figures, fixed as statues, and to all appearance equally insensible, -neither moved hand nor eye. As I advanced to make my salam to the grand -seignor’s representative, who received me with a most gracious nod of -the head; his interpreter announced to what nation I belonged, and my -own individual warm partiality for the Sublime Porte.</p> - -<p>As soon as I had taken my seat in a ponderous fauteuil of figured -velvet, coffee was carried round in cups of most delicate china, with -gold enamelled saucers. Notwithstanding my predilection for the east and -its customs, I could hardly get this beverage down, it was so thick and -bitter; whilst I was making a few wry faces in consequence, a low -murmuring sound, like that of flutes and dulcimers, accompanied<a name="page_vol_2_2308" id="page_vol_2_2308"></a> by a -sort of tabor, issued from behind a curtain which separated us from -another apartment. There was a melancholy wildness in the melody, and a -continual repetition of the same plaintive cadences, that soothed and -affected me.</p> - -<p>The ambassador kept poring upon my countenance, and appeared much -delighted with the effect his music seemed to produce upon it. He is a -man of considerable talent, deeply skilled in Turkish literature; a -native of Bagdad; rich, munificent, and nobly born, being descended from -the house of Barmek; gracious in his address, smooth and plausible in -his elocution; but not without something like a spark of despotism in a -corner of his eye. Now and then I fancied that the recollection of -having recommended the bow-string, and certain doubts whether he might -not one day or other be complimented with it in his turn, passed across -his venerable and interesting physiognomy.</p> - -<p>My eager questions about Bagdad, the tomb of Zobeida, the vestiges of -the Dhar al Khalifat, or palace of the Abbassides, seemed to excite a -thousand remembrances which gave him<a name="page_vol_2_2309" id="page_vol_2_2309"></a> pleasure; and when I added a few -quotations from some of his favourite authors, particularly Mesihi, he -became so flowingly communicative, that a shrewd dapper Greek, called -Timoni, who acted as his most confidential interpreter, could hardly -keep pace with him.</p> - -<p>Had not the hour of prayer arrived, our conversation might have lasted -till midnight. Rising up with much stateliness, he extended his arms to -bid me a good evening, and was assisted along by two good-looking -Georgian pages, to an adjoining chamber, where his secretaries, -dragoman, and attendants, were all assembled to perform their devotions, -each on his little carpet, as if in a mosque; and it was not unedifying -to witness the solemnity and abstractedness with which these devotions -were performed.<a name="page_vol_2_2310" id="page_vol_2_2310"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_IX-spn" id="LETTER_IX-spn"></a>LETTER IX.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Museum and Academy of Arts.—Scene on the Prado.—The -Portuguese Ambassador and his comforters.—The Theatre.—A highly -popular dancer.—Seguidillas in all their glory.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sunday, Dec. 16th, 1787.</p> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> kind, indefatigable Roxas came to conduct us to the Museum and -Academy of Arts. It consists of seven or eight apartments, with cases -all around them, in a plain, good style; the objects clearly arranged, -and exposed to view in a very intelligible manner. There is a vast -collection of minerals, corals, madrepores, and stalactites, from all -the grottoes in the universe; and curious specimens of virgin-gold and -silver. Amongst the latter, a lump weighing seventy pounds, which was -shivered off an enormous mass by a master miner, who, after dining on -it, with twelve or thirteen persons, hacked it to pieces, and -distributed the fragments amongst his guests.<a name="page_vol_2_2311" id="page_vol_2_2311"></a></p> - -<p>What pleased me most was a collection of Peruvian vases; a polished -stone, which served the Incas for a mirror; and a linen mantle, which -formerly adorned their copper-coloured shoulders, as finely woven as a -shawl, and flowered in very nearly a similar manner, the colours as -fresh and vivid as if new.</p> - -<p>In the apartments of the academy is a most valuable collection of casts -after the serene and graceful antique, and several fierce, obtrusive -daubings by modern Spanish artists.</p> - -<p>I found our acute, intelligent chargé-d’affaires’<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> card lying on my -table when I got home, and a great many more, of equal whiteness; such a -sight chills me like a fall of snow, for I think of the cold idleness of -going about day after day dropping little bits of pasteboard in return. -Verdeil and I dined tête-à-tête, planning schemes how to escape formal -fussifications. No easy matter, I suspect, if I may judge from -appearances.</p> - -<p>Our repast and our council over, we hurried to the Prado, where a -brilliant string of equipages was moving along in two files. In the<a name="page_vol_2_2312" id="page_vol_2_2312"></a> -middle paraded the state coaches of the royal family, containing their -own precious selves, and their wonted accompaniment of bedchamber lords -and ladies, duly bedizened. It was a gay spectacle; the music of the -Swiss guards playing, and the evening sun shining bright on their showy -uniforms. The botanic garden is separated from the walk by magnificent -railings and pilasters, placed at regular distances, crowned with vases -of aloes and yuccas. The verdure and fountains of this vast enclosure, -terminated by a range of columned conservatories, with an entrance of -very majestic architecture, has a delightful and striking effect.</p> - -<p>From the Prado I drove to the Portuguese ambassador’s, who is laid up -with a sore toe. Three diplomatic animals, two males and one female, -were nursing and comforting him. He is most supremely dull, and so are -his comforters. One of them in particular, who shall be nameless, quite -asinine.</p> - -<p>The little sympathy I feel for creatures of this genus, made me shorten -my visit as much as I decently could, and return home to take up Roxas, -who was waiting to accompany us to the Spanish theatre. They were acting -the<a name="page_vol_2_2313" id="page_vol_2_2313"></a> Barber of Seville, with Paesiello’s music, and singing better than -at the opera. The entertainment ended with a sort of intermez, very -characteristic of Spanish manners in low life; in which were introduced -seguidillas. One of the dancers, a young fellow, smartly dressed as a -maxo, so enraptured the audience, that they made him repeat his dance -four times over; a French dancing-master would have absolutely shuddered -at the manner in which he turned in his knees. The women sit by -themselves in a gallery as dingy as limbo, wrapped up in their white -mantillas, and looking like spectres. I never heard anything like the -vociferation with which the pit called out for the seguidillas, nor the -frantic, deafening applause they bestowed on their favourite dancer.</p> - -<p>The play ended at eight, and we came back to tea by our fireside.<a name="page_vol_2_2314" id="page_vol_2_2314"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_X-spn" id="LETTER_X-spn"></a>LETTER X.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Visit to the Escurial.—Imposing site of that regal -convent.—Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.—Magnificence -of the choir.—Charles the Fifth’s organ.—Crucifix by -Cellini.—Gorgeous ceiling painted by Luca Giordano.—Extent and -intricacy of the stupendous edifice.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Thursday, Dec. 19th, 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>HATE</small> being roused out of bed by candlelight on a sharp wintry morning; -but as I had fixed to-day for visiting the Escurial, and had stationed -three relays on the road, in order to perform the journey expeditiously, -I thought myself obliged to carry my plan into execution.</p> - -<p>The weather was cold and threatening, the sky red and deeply coloured. -Roxas was to be of our party, so we drove to his brother, the Marquis of -Villanueva’s, to take him up. He is one of the best-natured and most -friendly of human beings, and I would not have gone<a name="page_vol_2_2315" id="page_vol_2_2315"></a> without him upon -any account; though in general I abhor turning and twisting about a town -in search of any body, let its soul be never so transcendent.</p> - -<p>It was past eight before we issued out of the gates of Madrid, and -rattled along an avenue on the banks of the Mançanares full gallop, -which brought us to the Casa del Campo, one of the king’s palaces, -wrapped up in groves and thickets. We continued a mile or two by the -wall of this enclosure, and leaving La Sarsuela, another royal villa, -surrounded by shrubby hillocks, on the right, traversed three or four -leagues of a wild, naked country, and, after ascending several -considerable eminences, the sun broke out, the clouds partially rolled -away, and we discovered the white buildings of this far-famed monastery, -with its dome and towers detaching themselves from the bold back-ground -of a lofty, irregular mountain.</p> - -<p>We were now about a league off: the country wore a better aspect than -near Madrid. To the right and left of the road, which is of a noble -width, and perfectly well made, lie extensive parks of greensward, -scattered over with fragments of rock and stumps of oak and<a name="page_vol_2_2316" id="page_vol_2_2316"></a> ash-trees. -Numerous herds of deer were standing stock-still, quietly lifting up -their innocent noses, and looking us full in the face with their -beautiful eyes, secure of remaining unmolested, for the King never -permits a gun to be discharged in these enclosures.</p> - -<p>The Escurial, though overhung by melancholy mountains, is placed itself -on a very considerable eminence, up which we were full half an hour -toiling, the late rains having washed this part of the road into utter -confusion. There is something most severely impressive in the façade of -this regal convent, which, like the palace of Persepolis, is -overshadowed by the adjoining mountain; nor did I pass through a vaulted -cloister into the court before the church, solid as if hewn out of a -rock, without experiencing a sort of shudder, to which no doubt the -vivid recollection of the black and blood-stained days of our gloomy -queen Mary’s husband not slightly contributed. The sun being again -overcast, the porches of the church, surmounted by grim statues, -appeared so dark and cavern-like, that I thought myself about to enter a -subterraneous temple set apart for the service of some mysterious and -terrible<a name="page_vol_2_2317" id="page_vol_2_2317"></a> religion. And when I saw the high altar, in all its pomp of -jasper-steps, ranks of columns one above the other, and paintings -filling up every interstice, full before me, I felt completely awed.</p> - -<p>The sides of the recess, in which this imposing pile is placed, are -formed by lofty chapels, almost entirely occupied by catafalques of gilt -enamelled bronze. Here, with their crowns and sceptres humbly prostrate -at their feet, bare-headed and unhelmed, kneel the figures, large as -life, of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and his imperious son, the -second Philip, accompanied by those of their unhappy consorts and -ill-fated children. My sensations of dread and dreariness were not -diminished upon finding myself alone in such company; for Roxas had left -me to deliver some letters to his right reverence the prior, which were -to open to us all the arcana of this terrific edifice, at once a temple, -a palace, a convent, and a tomb.</p> - -<p>Presently my amiable friend returned, and with him a tall old monk, with -an ash-coloured forbidding countenance, and staring eyes, the expression -of which was the farthest removed possible from anything like -cordiality.<a name="page_vol_2_2318" id="page_vol_2_2318"></a> This was the mystagogue of the place—the prior <i>in propria -persona</i>, the representative of St. Jerome, as far as this monastery and -its domain was concerned, and a disciplinarian of celebrated rigidness. -He began examining me from head to foot, and, after what I thought -rather a strange scrutiny, asked me in broad Spanish what I wished -particularly to see. Then turning to Roxas, said loud enough for me to -hear him, “He is very young; does he understand what I say to him? But, -as I am peremptorily commanded to show him about, I suppose I must -comply, though I am quite unused to the office of explaining our -curiosities. However, if it must be, it must; so let us begin, and not -dally. I have no time to spare, you well know, and have quite enough to -do in the choir and the convent.”</p> - -<p>After this not very gracious exordium, we set forth on our tour. First -we visited some apartments with vaulted roofs, painted in arabesque, in -the finest style of the sixteenth century; and then a vast hall, which -had been used for the celebration of mass, whilst the great church was -building, where I saw the Perla in all its purity, the most -delicately-finished<a name="page_vol_2_2319" id="page_vol_2_2319"></a> work of Raphael, the Pesce, with its divine angel, -graceful infant; and devout young Tobit, breathing the very soul of -pious, unaffected simplicity. My attention was next attracted by that -most profoundly pathetic of pictures, Jacob weeping over the bloody -garment of his son; the loftiest proof in existence of the extraordinary -powers of Velasquez in the noblest work of art.</p> - -<p>These three pictures so absorbed my admiration, that I had little left -for a host of glorious performances by Titian and the highest masters, -which cover the plain, massive walls of these conventual rooms with a -paradise of glowing colours; so I passed along almost as rapidly as my -grumbling cicerone could desire, and followed him up several flights of -stairs, and through many and many an arched passage and vestibule, all -of the sternest doric, into the choir, which is placed over the grand -western entrance, right opposite, at the distance of more than two -hundred feet, to the high altar and its solemn accompaniments. No regal -chamber I ever beheld can be compared, in point of sober harmonious -majesty, to this apartment, which looks more as if it belonged to a -palace than<a name="page_vol_2_2320" id="page_vol_2_2320"></a> to a church. The series of stalls, designed in a severer -taste than was common in the sixteenth century, are carved out of the -most precious woods the Indies could furnish. At the extremity of this -striking perspective of onyx-coloured seats, columns, and canopies, -appears suspended upon a black velvet pall that revered image of the -crucified Saviour, formed of the purest ivory, which Cellini seems to -have sculptured in moments of devout rapture and inspiration. It is by -far his finest work; his Perseus, at Florence, is tame and laboured in -comparison.</p> - -<p>In a long narrow corridor which runs behind the stalls, panelled all -over like an inlaid cabinet, I was shown a beautiful little organ, in a -richly chased silver case, which accompanied Charles the Fifth in his -African expedition, and must often have gently beguiled the cares of -empire, for he played on it, tradition says, almost every evening. That -it is worth playing upon even now I can safely vouch, for I never -touched any instrument with a tone of more delicious sweetness; and -touch it I did, though my austere conductor, the sour-visaged<a name="page_vol_2_2321" id="page_vol_2_2321"></a> prior, -looked doubly forbidding on the occasion.</p> - -<p>The stalls I have just mentioned are much less ornamented than those I -have seen in Pavia, and many other monasteries; the ceiling of this -noblest of choirs, displays the utmost exuberance of decoration—the -richest and most gorgeous of spectacles, the heavens and all the powers -therein. Imagination can scarcely conceive the pomp and prodigality of -pencil with which Luca Giordano has treated this subject, and filled -every corner of the vast space it covers with well-rounded forms, that -seem actually starting from the glowing clouds with which they are -environed.</p> - -<p>“Is not this fine?” said the monk; “you can have nothing like it in your -country. And now be pleased to move forward, for the day is wasting, and -you will have little time left to examine our inestimable relics, and -the jewelled shrines in which they are deposited.”</p> - -<p>We went down from the choir, I can scarcely tell whither, such is the -extent and intricacy of this stupendous edifice. We passed, I believe, -through some of the lateral chapels at<a name="page_vol_2_2322" id="page_vol_2_2322"></a> the great church, into several -quadrangles, one in particular, with a fountain under a cupola in the -centre, surrounded by doric arcades, equal in justness of proportion and -architectural terseness to Palladio’s court in the convent of S. Giorgio -Maggiore.<a name="page_vol_2_2323" id="page_vol_2_2323"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XI-spn" id="LETTER_XI-spn"></a>LETTER XI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Mysterious cabinets.—Relics of Martyrs.—A feather from the -Archangel Gabriel’s wing.—Labyrinth of gloomy -cloisters.—Sepulchral cave.—River of death.—The regal -sarcophagi.</p></div> - -<p>My lord the prior, not favouring a prolonged survey, I reluctantly left -this beautiful court, and was led into a low gallery, roofed and -wainscoted with cedar, lined on both sides by ranges of small doors of -different-coloured Brazil-wood, looking in appearance, at least, as -solid as marble. Four sacristans, and as many lay-brothers, with large -lighted flambeaux of yellow wax in their hands, and who, by the by, -never quitted us more the remainder of our peregrinations, stood silent -as death, ready to unlock those mysterious entrances.</p> - -<p>The first they opened exhibited a buffet, or <i>credence</i>, three stories -high, set out with many<a name="page_vol_2_2324" id="page_vol_2_2324"></a> a row of grinning skulls, looking as pretty as -gold and diamonds could make them; the second, every possible and -impossible variety of odds and ends, culled from the carcasses of -martyrs; the third, enormous ebony presses, the secrets of which I -begged for pity’s sake might not be intruded upon for my recreation, as -I began to be heartily wearied of sightseeing; but when my conductors -opened the fourth mysterious door, I absolutely shrank back, almost -sickened by a perfume of musk and ambergris.</p> - -<p>A spacious vault was now disclosed to me—one noble arch, richly -panelled: had the pavement of this strange-looking chamber been strewn -with saffron, I should have thought myself transported to the enchanted -courser’s forbidden stable we read of in the tale of the Three -Calenders.</p> - -<p>The prior, who is not easily pleased, seemed to have suspicions that the -seriousness of my demeanour was not entirely orthodox; I overheard him -saying to Roxas, “Shall I show him the Angel’s feather? you know we do -not display this our most-valued, incomparable relic to everybody, nor -unless upon special<a name="page_vol_2_2325" id="page_vol_2_2325"></a> occasions.”—“The occasion is sufficiently -special,” answered my partial friend; “the letters I brought to you are -your warrant, and I beseech your reverence to let us look at this gift -of heaven, which I am extremely anxious myself to adore and venerate.”</p> - -<p>Forth stalked the prior, and drawing out from a remarkably large cabinet -an equally capacious sliding shelf—(the source, I conjecture, of the -potent odour I complained of)—displayed lying stretched out upon a -quilted silken mattress, the most glorious specimen of plumage ever -beheld in terrestrial regions—a feather from the wing of the Archangel -Gabriel, full three feet long, and of a blushing hue more soft and -delicate than that of the loveliest rose. I longed to ask at what -precise moment this treasure beyond price had been dropped—whether from -the air—on the open ground, or within the walls of the humble tenement -at Nazareth; but I repressed all questions of an indiscreet -tendency—the why and wherefore, the when and how, for what and to whom -such a palpable manifestation of archangelic beauty and wingedness had -been vouchsafed.<a name="page_vol_2_2326" id="page_vol_2_2326"></a></p> - -<p>We all knelt in silence, and when we rose up after the holy feather had -been again deposited in its perfumed lurking-place, I fancied the prior -looked doubly suspicious, and uttered a sort of <i>humph</i> very doggedly; -nor did his ill-humour evaporate upon my desiring to be conducted to the -library. “It is too late for you to see the precious books and -miniatures by daylight,” replied the crusty old monk, “and you would not -surely have me run the risk of dropping wax upon them. No, no, another -time, another time, when you come earlier. For the present, let us visit -the tomb of the catholic kings; there, our flambeaux will be of service -without doing injury.”</p> - -<p>He led the way through a labyrinth of cloisters, gloomy as the grave; -till ordering a grated door to be thrown open, the light of our -flambeaux fell upon a flight of most beautiful marble steps, polished as -a mirror, leading down between walls of the rarest jaspers to a portal -of no great size, but enriched with balusters of rich bronze, sculptured -architraves, and tablets of inscriptions, in a style of the greatest -magnificence.<a name="page_vol_2_2327" id="page_vol_2_2327"></a></p> - -<p>As I descended the steps, a gurgling sound, like that of a rivulet, -caught my ear. “What means this?” said I. “It means,” answered the monk, -“that the sepulchral cave on the left of the stairs, where repose the -bodies of many of our queens and infantas, is properly ventilated, -running water being excellent for that purpose.” I went on, not lulled -by these rippling murmurs, but chilled when I reflected through what -precincts flows this river of death.</p> - -<p>Arrived at the bottom of the stairs, we passed through the portal just -mentioned, and entered a circular saloon, not more than five-and-thirty -feet in diameter, characterized by extreme elegance, not stern -solemnity. The regal sarcophagi, rich in golden ornaments, ranged one -above the other, forming panels of the most decorative kind; the lustre -of exquisitely sculptured bronze, the pavement of mottled alabaster; in -short, this graceful dome, covered with scrolls of the most delicate -foliage, appeared to the eye of my imagination more like a subterranean -boudoir, prepared by some gallant young magician for the reception of an -enchanted and enchanting<a name="page_vol_2_2328" id="page_vol_2_2328"></a> princess, than a temple consecrated to the -king of terrors.</p> - -<p>My conductor’s visage growing longer and longer every minute, and -looking pretty nearly as grim as that of the last-mentioned sovereign, I -whispered Roxas it was full time to take our leave; which we did -immediately after my intimating that express desire, to the no small -satisfaction, I am perfectly convinced, of my lord the prior.</p> - -<p>Cold and hungry, for we had not been offered a morsel of refreshment, we -repaired to a warm opulent-looking habitation belonging to one of my -kind companion’s most particular friends, a much favoured attendant of -his catholic Majesty’s; here we were received with open arms and -generous hospitality; and it grew pitch dark before we quitted this -comfortable shelter from the piercing winds, which blow almost -perpetually over the Escurial, and returned to Madrid.<a name="page_vol_2_2329" id="page_vol_2_2329"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XII-spn" id="LETTER_XII-spn"></a>LETTER XII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.—Curious assemblage in his -long pompous gallery.—Deplorable ditty by an eastern -dilettante.—A bolero in the most rapturous style.—Boccharini in -despair.—Solecisms in dancing.</p></div> - -<p>The mules galloped back at so rapid a rate, and their conductors bawled -and screamed so lustily to encourage their exertions, that half my -recollections of the Escurial were whirled out of my head before I -reached my old quarters at the Cruz de Malta. I had quite forgotten, -amongst other things, that I had actually accepted a most pressing -invitation to a concert and ball at Pacheco’s this very evening.</p> - -<p>Pacheco is an old Portuguese, immensely rich, and who had been immensely -favoured<a name="page_vol_2_2330" id="page_vol_2_2330"></a> in the days of his youth by his august countrywoman, Queen -Barbara, the consort of Ferdinand the sixth, and the patroness of -Farinelli. He is uncle to madame Arriaga, her most Faithful Majesty’s -most faithful and favourite attendant, and a person of such worship, -that courtiers, ministers, and prelates, are too happy to congregate at -his house, whenever he takes it into his head to allow them an -opportunity.</p> - -<p>Though I had been half petrified by my cold ramble through the Escurial, -under the prior’s still more chilling auspices, I had quite life enough -left to obey Pacheco’s summons with alacrity; and as I expected to dance -a great deal, I put on my dancing-dress, that of a maxo, with ties and -tags, and trimmings and buttons, redecilla and all.</p> - -<p>I must confess, however, that I felt rather abashed and disappointed, -upon entering Pacheco’s long pompous gallery, to find myself in the -midst of diplomatic and ministerial personages, assembled in stiff gala -to do honour to Achmet Vassif, whose musicians were seated on the carpet -howling forth a deplorable ditty,<a name="page_vol_2_2331" id="page_vol_2_2331"></a> composed, as the Armenian interpreter -informed me, by one of the most impassioned and lovesick dilettantes of -the east; no strain I ever heard was half so lugubrious, not even that -of a dog baying the moon, or owls making their complaints to it.</p> - -<p>I could not help telling the ambassador, without the smallest -circumlocution, that his tabor and pipe people I heard the other day -accompanying a dulcimer, were far more worthy of praise than his vocal -attendants; but this truth, like most others, did not exactly please; -and I fear my reputation for musical connoisseurship was completely -forfeited in his excellency’s estimation, for he looked a little glum -upon the occasion. What surprised me most, after all, was the patience -with which the whole assembly listened for full three-quarters of an -hour to these languorous wailings.</p> - -<p>Amongst the audience, none bore the severe infliction with a greater -degree of evangelical resignation than the grand inquisitor and the -archbishop of Toledo; both these prelates have not only the look, but -the character of beneficence, which promises a truce to the faggot<a name="page_vol_2_2332" id="page_vol_2_2332"></a> and -pitch-barrel; the expression of the archbishop’s countenance in -particular is most engagingly mild and pleasing. He came up to me -without the least reserve or formality, and taking me by the hand, said -with a cheerful smile, “I see you are equipped for a dance, and have -adopted our fashion; we all long to judge whether an Englishman can -enter (as I hear you can) into the extravagant spirit of our national -dances. I will speak to Pacheco, and desire him to form a diversion in -your favour, by calling off these doleful minstrels to the rinfresco -prepared for them.” And so he did, and there was an end of the concert, -to my infinite joy, and the no less delight of the villa mayors and -sabbatinis, with whom, without a moment’s farther delay, I sprang forth -in a bolero.</p> - -<p>Down came all the Spanish musicians from their formal orchestra, too -happy to escape its trammels; away went the foreign regulars, taking -vehement pinches of snuff, with the most unequivocal expressions of -anger and indignation. A circle was soon formed, a host of guitars put -in immediate requisition, and<a name="page_vol_2_2333" id="page_vol_2_2333"></a> never did I hear such wild, extravagant, -passionate modulations.</p> - -<p>Boccharini, who led and presided over the Duchess of Ossuna’s concerts, -and who had been lent to Pacheco as a special favour, witnessed these -most original deviations from all established musical rule with the -utmost contempt and dismay. He said to me in a loud whisper, “If <i>you</i> -dance and <i>they</i> play in this ridiculous manner, I shall never be able -to introduce a decent style into our musical world here, which I -flattered myself I was on the very point of doing. What possesses you? -Is it the devil? Who could suppose that a reasonable being, an -Englishman of all others, would have encouraged these inveterate -barbarians in such absurdities. There’s a chromatic scream! there’s a -passage! We have heard of robbing time; this is murdering it. What! -again! Why, this is worse than a convulsive hiccup, or the last rattle -in the throat of a dying malefactor. Give me the Turkish howlings in -preference; they are not so obtrusive and impudent.”</p> - -<p>So saying, he moved off with a semi-seria stride, and we danced on with -redoubled delight<a name="page_vol_2_2334" id="page_vol_2_2334"></a> and joy. The quicker we moved, the more intrepidly we -stamped with our feet, the more sonorously we snapped our fingers, the -better reconciled the sublime Effendi appeared to be with me. He forgot -my critiques upon his vocal performers: he rose up from his snug -cushion, and nodded his turbaned head, and expressed his delight, not -only by word and gesture, but in a most comfortable orientalish sort of -chuckling. As to the rest of the company, the Spanish part at least, -they were so much animated, that not less than twenty voices accompanied -the bolero with its appropriate words in full chorus, and with a glow of -enthusiasm that inspired my lovely partners and myself with such energy, -that we outdid all our former outdancings.</p> - -<p>“Is it possible,” exclaimed an old fandango-fancier of great -notoriety—“is it possible, that a son of the cold north can have learnt -all our rapturous flings and stampings?”—“The French never <i>could</i>, or -rather never <i>would</i>,” observed a Monsieur Gaudin, one of the Duke de la -<a name="page_vol_2_2335" id="page_vol_2_2335"></a>V——’s secretaries, who was standing by perfectly astounded.</p> - -<p>Who persecute like renegades? who are so virulent against their former -sect as fresh converts to another? This was partly my case; though my -dancing and musical education had been strictly orthodox, according to -the precepts of Mozart and Sacchini, of Vestris and Gardel, I declared -loudly there was no music but Spanish, no dancing but Spanish, no -salvation in either art out of the Spanish pale, and that, compared with -such rapturous melodies, such inspired movements, the rest of Europe -afforded only examples of dullness and insipidity. I would not allow my -former instructors a spark of merit; and at the very moment I was -committing solecisms in good dancing at every step, and stamping and -piaffing like a courser but half-broken in at a manège, I felt and -looked as firmly persuaded of the truth of my impudent assertions as the -greatest bigot of his nonsense in some untried new-fangled superstition. -Success, founded or unfounded, is everything in this world. We too well -know the sad fate of merit. I am more than apt to conjecture we were but -very slightly entitled to any applause; yet the<a name="page_vol_2_2336" id="page_vol_2_2336"></a> transports we called -forth were as fervid as those the famous Le Pique excited at Naples in -the zenith of his popularity.</p> - -<p>The British and American ministers, who were standing by the whole time, -enjoyed this amusing proof of Spanish fanaticism, in its profane mood, -with all the zest of intelligent and shrewd observers. Pisani, the -Venetian ambassador, inclined decidedly to the southern side of the -question. He was bound, heart and soul, by a variety of silken ties to -the Spanish interest, and had almost forgotten the fascinations of -Venice in those of Andalusia. Consequently I had his vote in my favour. -Not so that of the Duchess of Ossuna, Boccharini’s patroness. She said -to me in the plainest language, “You are making the greatest fool of -yourself I ever beheld; and as to those riotous self-taught hoydens, -your partners, I tell you what, they are scarcely worthy to figure in -the third rank at a second-rate theatre. Come along with me, and I will -present you to my mother, the Countess of Benevente, who gives a very -different sort of education to the charming young women she admits to -her court.”</p> - -<p>I had heard of this court and its delectabilities,<a name="page_vol_2_2337" id="page_vol_2_2337"></a> and at the same time -been informed that its throne was a faro-table, to which the initiated -were imperatively expected to become tributaries. The sovereign, old -Benevente, is the most determined hag of her rout-giving, card-playing -species in Europe, of the highest birth, the highest consequence, and -the principal disposer, by long habit and old cortejo-ship, of Florida -Blanca’s good graces.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the severe regulations against gambling societies, most -severely enforced at Madrid; notwithstanding the prime minister’s -morality, and the still higher morality of his royal master, this great -lady’s aberrations of every kind are most complaisantly winked at; she -is allowed not only to set up under her own princely roof a refuge for -the desolate, in the most delicate style of Spanish refinement, for the -kind purpose of enchanting all persons sufficiently favoured by fortune -to merit admission to her parties, by every blandishment and -languishment the most seductive eyes of Seville and Cadiz she had -collected together could throw around them; but so sure as the hour of -midnight arrived, and Florida Blanca (who never fails paying his devoirs -to the<a name="page_vol_2_2338" id="page_vol_2_2338"></a> countess every evening) had made his retiring bow, so sure a -confidential party of illuminati, of unsleeping partners in the -gambling-line, made their appearance, heavily laden with well-stored -caskets.</p> - -<p>Now came the tug of play, and hope, and fear in all their thrilling and -throbbing alternations; but, to say truth, I was so completely jaded and -worn-out that I partook of neither, and was too happy, after losing -almost unconsciously a few dobras, to be allowed to retire; old -Benevente calling out to me, with the croak of a vulture scenting its -prey from afar, <i>Cavallero Inglez, a mañana a la misma hora</i>.<a name="page_vol_2_2339" id="page_vol_2_2339"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIII-spn" id="LETTER_XIII-spn"></a>LETTER XIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Palace of Madrid.—Masterly productions of the great Italian, -Spanish, and Flemish painters.—The King’s sleeping -apartment.—Musical clocks.—Feathered favourites.—Picture of the -Madonna del Spasimo.—Interview with Don Gabriel and the -Infanta.—Her Royal Highness’s affecting recollections of -home.—Head-quarters of Masserano.—Exhibition of national manners -there.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Monday, 24th Dec. 1787.</p> - -<p>I <small>SHALL</small> have the megrims for want of exercise, like my friend Achmet -Vassif, if I don’t alter my way of life. This morning I only took a -listless saunter in the Prado, and returned early to dinner, with a very -slight provision of fresh air in my lungs. Roxas was with me, hurrying -me out of all appetite that I might see the palace by daylight; and so -to the palace we went, and it was luckily a bright ruddy afternoon, the -sun gilding a grand confusion of mountainous clouds, and chequering the -wild extent of country between Madrid<a name="page_vol_2_2340" id="page_vol_2_2340"></a> and the Escurial with powerful -effects of light and shade.</p> - -<p>I cannot praise the front of the palace very warmly. In the centre of -the edifice starts up a whimsical sort of turret, with gilt bells, the -vilest ornament that could possibly have been imagined. The interior -court is of pure and classic architecture, and the great staircase so -spacious and well-contrived that you arrive almost imperceptibly at the -portal of the guard-chamber. Every door-case and window recess of this -magnificent edifice gleams with the richest polished marbles: the -immense and fortress-like thickness of the walls, and double panes of -the strongest glass, exclude the keen blasts which range almost -uninterrupted over the wide plains of Castile, and preserve an admirable -temperature throughout the whole extent of these royal rooms, the -grandeur, and at the same time comfort, of which cannot possibly be -exceeded.</p> - -<p>The king, the prince of Asturias, and the chief part of their -attendants, were all absent hunting in the park of the Escurial; but the -reposteros, or curtain-drawers of the palace, having received particular -orders for my admittance,<a name="page_vol_2_2341" id="page_vol_2_2341"></a> I enjoyed the entire liberty of wandering -about unrestrained and unmolested. Roxas having left me to join a gay -party of the royal body-guard in Masserano’s apartments, I remained in -total solitude, surrounded by the pure unsullied works of the great -Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters, fresh as the flowers of a -parterre in early morning, and many of them as beautiful in point of -hues.</p> - -<p>Not a door being closed, I penetrated through the chamber of the throne -even into the old king’s sleeping-apartment, which, unlike the dormitory -of most of his subjects, is remarkable for extreme neatness. A book of -pious orisons, with engravings by Spanish artists, and containing, -amongst other prayers in different languages, one adapted to the -exclusive use of majesty, <i>Regi solo proprius</i>, was lying on his -praying-desk; and at the head of the richly-canopied, but uncurtained -bed, I noticed with much delight an enamelled tablet by Mengs, -representing the infant Saviour appearing to Saint Anthony of Padua.</p> - -<p>In this room, as in all the others I passed through, without any -exception, stood cages of gilded wire, of different forms and sizes,<a name="page_vol_2_2342" id="page_vol_2_2342"></a> -and in every cage a curious exotic bird, in full song, each trying to -out-sing his neighbour. Mingled with these warblings was heard at -certain intervals the low chime of musical clocks, stealing upon the ear -like the tones of harmonic glasses. No other sound broke in any degree -the general stillness, except, indeed, the almost inaudible footsteps of -several aged domestics, in court-dresses of the cut and fashion -prevalent in the days of the king’s mother, Elizabeth Farnese, gliding -along quietly and cautiously to open the cages, and offer their inmates -such dainties as highly-educated birds are taught to relish. Much -fluttering and cowering down ensued in consequence of these attentions, -and much rubbing of bills and scratching of poles on my part, as well as -on that of the smiling old gentlemen.</p> - -<p>As soon as the ceremony of pampering these feathered favourites had been -most affectionately performed, I availed myself of the light reflected -from a clear sun-set to examine the pictures, chiefly of a religious -cast, with which these stately apartments are tapestried; particularly -the Madonna del Spasimo, that vivid representation of the blessed -Virgin’s maternal<a name="page_vol_2_2343" id="page_vol_2_2343"></a> agony, when her divine son, fainting under the -burthen of the cross, approached to ascend the mount of torture, and -complete the awful mystery of redemption. Raphael never attained in any -other of his works such solemn depth of colour, such majesty of -character, as in this triumph of his art. “Never was sorrow like unto -the sorrow” he has depicted in the Virgin’s countenance and attitude; -never was the expression of a sublime and God-like calm in the midst of -acute suffering conveyed more closely home to the human heart than in -the face of Christ.</p> - -<p>I stood fixed in the contemplation of this holy vision—for such I -almost fancied it to be—till the approaching shadows of night had -overspread every recess of these vast apartments: still I kept intensely -gazing upon the picture. I knew it was time to retire,—still I gazed -on. I was aware that Roxas had been long expecting me in Masserano’s -apartments,—still I could not snatch myself away; the Virgin mother -with her outstretched arms still haunted me. The song of the birds had -ceased, as well as the soft diapason of the self-playing organs;—all -was hushed, all tranquil. I departed at length with the languid -unwillingness<a name="page_vol_2_2344" id="page_vol_2_2344"></a> of an enthusiast exhausted by the intensity of his -feelings and loth to arouse himself from the bosom of grateful -illusions.</p> - -<p>Just as I reached the portal of the great stairs, whom should I meet but -Noronha advancing towards me with a hurried step. “Where are you going -so fast?” said he to me, “and where have you been staying so long? I -have been sending repeatedly after you to no purpose; you must come with -me immediately to the Infanta and Don Gabriel, they want to ask you a -thousand questions about the Ajuda: the letters you brought them from -Marialva, and the archbishop in particular, have, I suppose, inspired -that wish; and as royal wishes, you know, cannot be too speedily -gratified, you must kiss their hands this very evening. I am to be your -introductor.”—“What!” said I, “in this unceremonious dress?”—“Yes,” -said the ambassador, “I have heard that you are not a pattern of -correctness in these matters.” I wished to have been one in this -instance. At this particular moment I was in no trim exteriorly or -interiorly for courtly introductions. I thought of nothing but birds and -pictures, and had much rather have been presented to<a name="page_vol_2_2345" id="page_vol_2_2345"></a> a cockatoo than to -the greatest monarch in Christendom.</p> - -<p>However, I put on the best face I was able, and we proceeded together -very placidly to that part of the palace assigned to Don Gabriel and his -blooming bride. The doors of a coved ante-chamber flew open, and after -passing through an enfilade of saloons peopled with ladies-in-waiting -and pages, (some mere children,) we entered a lofty chamber hung with -white satin, formed into compartments by a rich embroidery of gold and -colours, and illuminated by a lustre of rock crystal.</p> - -<p>At the farther extremity of the apartment, stood the Infant Don Gabriel, -leaning against a table covered with velvet, on which I observed a case -of large golden antique medals he was in the very act of contemplating: -the Infanta was seated near. She rose up most graciously to hold out a -beautiful hand, which I kissed with unfeigned fervour: her countenance -is most prepossessing; the same florid complexion, handsome features, -and open exhilarating smile which distinguishes her brother the Prince -of Brazil.</p> - -<p>“Ah,” said her royal highness with great<a name="page_vol_2_2346" id="page_vol_2_2346"></a> earnestness, “you have then -lately seen my dear mother, and walked perhaps in the little garden I -was so fond of; did you notice the fine flowers that grow there? -particularly the blue carnation; we have not such flowers at Madrid; -this climate is not like that of Portugal, nor are our views so -pleasant; I miss the azure Tagus, and your ships continually sailing up -it; but when you write to your friend Marialva and the archbishop, tell -them, I possess what no other prospect upon earth can equal, the smiles -of an adored husband.”</p> - -<p>The Infant now approached towards me with a look of courteous benignity -that reminded me strongly of the Bourbons, nor could I trace in his -frank kindly manner the least leaven of Austrian hauteur or Spanish -starchness. After inquiring somewhat facetiously how the Duke d’Alafoens -and the Portuguese academicians proceeded on their road to the temple of -fame, he asked me whether our universities continued to be the favoured -abode of classical attainments, and if the books they printed were as -correct and as handsome now as in the days of the Stuarts; adding that -his private collection contained some copies which had formerly -belonged<a name="page_vol_2_2347" id="page_vol_2_2347"></a> to the celebrated Count of Oxford. This was far too good an -opportunity of putting in a word to the praise and glory of his own -famous translation of Sallust, to be neglected; so I expressed -everything he could have wished to hear upon the subject.</p> - -<p>“You are very good,” observed his royal highness; “but to tell you the -truth, it was hard work for me. I began it, and so I went on, and lost -many a day’s wholesome exercise in our parks and forests: however, such -as it is, I performed my task without any assistance, though you may -perhaps have heard the contrary.”</p> - -<p>It was now Noronha’s turn to begin complimenting, which he did with all -the high court mellifluence of an accredited family ambassador: whether, -indeed, the Infant received as gospel all the fine things that were said -to him I won’t answer, but he looked even kinder and more gracious than -at our first entrance. The Infanta recurred again and again to the -subject of the Ajuda, and appeared so visibly affected that she awakened -all my sympathies; for I, too, had left those behind me on the banks of -the Tagus for whom I felt a fond and indelible<a name="page_vol_2_2348" id="page_vol_2_2348"></a> regard. As we were -making our retiring bows, I saw tears gathering in her eyes, whilst she -kept gracefully waving her hand to bid us a happy night.</p> - -<p>The impressions I received from this interview were not of a nature to -allow my enjoying with much vivaciousness the next scene to which I was -transported—the head-quarters of Masserano, whom I found in unusually -high spirits surrounded by a train of gay young officers, rapping out -the rankest Castilian oaths, quaffing their flowing cups of champagne -and val de peñas, and playing off upon each other, not exactly the most -decorous specimens of practical wit.</p> - -<p>Roxas looked rather abashed at so unrefined an exhibition of national -manners: Noronha had taken good care to keep aloof, and I regretted not -having followed his example.<a name="page_vol_2_2349" id="page_vol_2_2349"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XIV-spn" id="LETTER_XIV-spn"></a>LETTER XIV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A German Visionary.—Remarkable conversation with him.—History of -a Ghost-seer.</p></div> - -<p>It is not at every corner of life that we stumble upon an intrinsically -singular character: to-day however, at Noronha’s, I fell in with a Saxon -count,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> who justly answers to that description. This man is not only -thoroughly imbued with the theoretical mysticism of the German school, -but has most firmly persuaded himself, and hundreds besides, that he -holds converse with the souls of the departed. Though most impressive -and even extravagant upon this subject, when started, he proves himself -a man of singular<a name="page_vol_2_2350" id="page_vol_2_2350"></a> judgment upon most others, is a good geometrician, an -able chymist, a mineralogist of no ordinary proficiency, and has made -discoveries in the art of smelting metals, which have been turned -already to useful purpose. Yet nothing can beat out of this cool -reflective head, that magical operations may be performed to evident -effect, and the devil most positively evocated.</p> - -<p>I thought, at first sight, there was a something uncouth and ghostly in -his appearance, that promised strange communications; he has a careworn -look, a countenance often convulsed with apparently painful twitches, -and a lofty skull, set off with bristling hair, powdered as white as -Caucasus.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding I by no means courted his acquaintance, he was resolved -to make up to me, and dissipate by the smoothest address he could -assume, any prejudices his uncommon cast of features might have -inspired. Drawing his chair close to mine, whilst Noronha and his party -were busily engaged at voltarete, he tried to allure my attention by -throwing out hints of the wonders within reach of a person born under -the smile of certain constellations:<a name="page_vol_2_2351" id="page_vol_2_2351"></a> that I was the person he meant to -insinuate, I have little doubt. Having heard that fortune had conferred -upon me some few of her golden gifts, he thought, perhaps, that I might -be <i>fused</i> to advantage, like any other lump of the precious metals. Be -his motives what they may, he certainly took as many pains to wind -himself into my good opinion as if I had actually been the prime -favourite of a planet, or a distant cousin by some diabolical -intermarriage, in the style of one of the Plantagenet matches, of old -Beelzebub himself.</p> - -<p>After a good deal of conversation upon different subjects, chiefly of a -sombrous nature, happening to ask him if he had known Schröffer, the -most renowned ghost-seer in all Germany,—“Intimately well,” was his -reply; “a bold young man, not so free, alas! from sensual taint as the -awful career he had engaged in demanded,—he rushed upon danger -unprepared, at an unhallowed moment—his fate was terrible. I passed a -week with him not six months before he disappeared in the frightful -manner you have heard of; it was a week of mental toil and suffering, of -fasts<a name="page_vol_2_2352" id="page_vol_2_2352"></a> and privations of various natures, and of sights sufficiently -appalling to drive back the whole current of the blood from the heart. -It was at this period that, returning one dark and stormy night from -trying experiments upon living animals, more excruciating than any the -keenest anatomist ever perpetrated, I found lying upon my chair, coiled -up in a circle like the symbol of eternity, an enormous snake of a -deadly lead colour; it neither hissed nor moved for several minutes: -during this pause, whilst I remained aghast looking full upon it, a -voice more like the whisper of trees than any sound of human utterance, -articulated certain words, which I have retained, and used to powerful -effect in moments of peril and extreme urgency.”</p> - -<p>I shall not easily forget the strange inquisitive look he gave me whilst -making this still stranger communication; he saw my curiosity was -excited, and flattered himself he had made upon me the impression he -meditated; but when I asked, with the tone of careless levity, what -became of the snake on the cushion, after the voice had ceased, he shook -his white locks somewhat angrily, and croaked forth with<a name="page_vol_2_2353" id="page_vol_2_2353"></a> a formidable -German accent, “Ask no more—ask no more—you are not in a disposition -at present sufficiently pure and serious to comprehend what I <i>might</i> -disclose. Ask no more.”—For this time at least I most implicitly obeyed -him.</p> - -<p>Promising to call upon me and continue our conversation any day or hour -I might choose to appoint, he glided off so imperceptibly, that had I -been a little more persuaded of the possibility of supernatural -occurrences, I might have believed he had actually vanished. “A good -riddance,” said Noronha; “I don’t half like that man, nor can I make out -why Florida Blanca is so gracious to him.”—“I rather suspect he is a -spy upon us all,” observed the Sardinian ambassadress, who made one of -the voltarete party; “and though he guessed right about the winning card -last night at the Countess of Benevente’s, I am determined not to invite -him to dinner again in a hurry.<a name="page_vol_2_2354" id="page_vol_2_2354"></a>”</p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XV-spn" id="LETTER_XV-spn"></a>LETTER XV.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Madame Bendicho.—Unsuccessful search on the Prado.—Kauffman, an -infidel in the German style.—Mass in the chapel of the -Virgin.—The Duchess of Alba’s villa.—Destruction by a young -French artist of the paintings of Rubens.—French ambassador’s -ball.—Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sunday, Jan. 13th.</p> - -<p>K<small>AUFFMAN</small><a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> accompanied me to the Prado this morning, where we met -Madame Bendicho and her faithful Expilly, (a famous tactician in war or -peace,) who told me that somebody I thought particularly interesting was -not far off. This intelligence imparted to me such animation, that -Kauffman was obliged to take long strides to equal my pace. I traversed -the whole Prado without meeting the object of my pursuit, and found -myself almost unconsciously in the court before the ugly front of the -church of Atocha. A tide of devotees carried us into<a name="page_vol_2_2355" id="page_vol_2_2355"></a> the chapel of the -Virgin, which is hung round with trophies, and ex-voto’s, legs, arms, -and fingers, in wax and plaster.</p> - -<p>Kauffman is three parts an infidel in the German style, but I advised -him to kneel with something like Castilian solemnity, and hear out a -mass which was none of the shortest, the priest being old, and much -given to the wiping and adjusting of spectacles, a pair of which, -uncommonly large and lustrous, I thought he would never have succeeded -in fitting to his nose.</p> - -<p>We happened to kneel under the shade of some banners which the British -lion was simple enough to let slip out of his paws during the last war. -The colours of fort St. Philip dangled immediately above my head. -Amongst the crowd of Our Lady’s worshippers I espied one of the gayest -of my ball-room acquaintances, the young Duke of Arion, looking like a -strayed sheep, and smiting his breast most piteously.</p> - -<p>A tiresome salve regina being ended, I measured back my steps to the -Prado, and at length discovered the person of all others I wished most -to see, strictly guarded by mamma.<a name="page_vol_2_2356" id="page_vol_2_2356"></a> I accompanied them to their door, -and returned loiteringly and lingeringly home, where I found Infantado, -who had been waiting for me above half an hour. With him I rode out on -the Toledo road to see a pompous bridge, or rather viaduct; for the -river it spans, even in this season, is scarcely copious enough to turn -the model of a mill-wheel, much less the reality.</p> - -<p>From this spot we went to a villa lately purchased by the Duchess of -Alba, and which, I was told, Rubens had once inhabited. True enough, we -found a conceited young French artist in the arabesque and cupid line, -busily employed in pouncing out the last memorials in this spot of that -great painter; reminiscences of favourite pictures he had thrown off in -fresco, upon what appeared a rich crimson damask ground. Yes, I -witnessed this vandalish operation, and saw large flakes of stucco -imprinted with the touches of Rubens fall upon the floor, and heard the -wretch who was perpetrating the irreparable act sing, “Veillons mes -sœurs, veillons encorrre,” with a strong Parisian accent, all the -while he was slashing away.</p> - -<p>My sweet temper was so much ruffled by this spectacle, that I begged to -be excused any<a name="page_vol_2_2357" id="page_vol_2_2357"></a> further excursion, and returned home to dress and -compose myself, while Infantado went back to his palace. I soon joined -him, having been invited to dine with his right virtuous and estimable -papa. Thank heaven the rage for Frenchified decoration has not yet -reached this plain but princely abode, which remains in noble Castilian -simplicity, with all its famed pictures untouched and uncontaminated.</p> - -<p>As soon as the old duke had retired to his evening’s devotions, we -hurried to the French ambassador’s ball, where I met fewer saints than -sinners, and saw nothing particularly edifying, except the semi-royal -race of the Medina Celis dancing “high and disposedly.” Cogolhudo, the -heir-apparent of this great house, is a good-natured, busy personage, -but his illustrious consort, who has been recently appointed to the -important office of Camerara mayor, or mistress of the robes to the -image of Our Lady of La Soledad, is a great deal less kindly and -affable.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a><a name="page_vol_2_2358" id="page_vol_2_2358"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVI-spn" id="LETTER_XVI-spn"></a>LETTER XVI.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.—Stroll to the gardens of the -Buen Retiro.—Troop of ostriches.—Madame d’Aranda.—State of -Cortejo-ism.—Powers of drapery.—Madame d’Aranda’s -toilet.—Assembly at the house of Madame Badaan.—Cortejos off -duty.—Blaze of beauty.—A curious group.—A dance.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Sunday, 23rd.</p> - -<p>E<small>VERY</small> morning I have the pleasure of supplying the Grand Signior’s -representative with rolls and brioche, baked at home for my breakfast; -and this very day he came himself in one of the king’s lumbering state -coaches, with some of his special favourites, to thank me for these -piping hot attentions. We had a great deal of conversation about the -marvels of London, though he seemed stoutly convinced that in every -respect Islembul exceeded it ten times over.</p> - -<p>As soon as he moved off, I strolled to the<a name="page_vol_2_2359" id="page_vol_2_2359"></a> gardens of the Buen Retiro, -which contains neither statues nor fountains worth describing. They -cover a vast extent of sandy ground, in which there is no prevailing -upon anything vegetable or animal to thrive, except ostriches, a troop -of which were striding about in high spirits, apparently as much at home -as in their own native parched-up deserts.</p> - -<p>Roxas dined with us, and we went together in the evening to the French -ambassador’s, the Duke de la V****. His daughter, a fine young woman of -eighteen or nineteen, is married to the Prince de L****, a smart -stripling, who has scarcely entered his fifteenth year; the ambassador -is no trifling proficient in political intrigue, no common-place twister -and turner in the paths of diplomacy, looks about him with calm and -polished indifference, though full of hazardous schemes and projects; -ever in secret ferment, and a Jesuit to the heart’s core. I could not -help noticing his quiet, observing eye—the still eye of a serpent lying -perdue in a cave. In his address and manners he is quite a model of -high-bred ease, without the slightest tincture of pedantry or -affectation.<a name="page_vol_2_2360" id="page_vol_2_2360"></a></p> - -<p>Madame la Duchesse is a great deal fonder of fine phrases, which she -does not always reserve for grand occasions. Their son, the Prince de -C***, amused me beyond bounds with his lightning-like flashes of wit and -merriment, at the expense of Madrid and its tertullias. Upon the whole, -I like this family very much, and ardently wish they may like me.</p> - -<p>I could not stay with them so long as I desired, Roxas having promised -to present me to Madame d’Aranda, whose devoted friend and <i>cortejo</i> he -has the consummate pleasure to be. Happy the man who has the good -fortune of being attached by such delicious, though not quite strictly -sacred ties, to so charming a little creature; but in general the state -of cortejo-ism is far from enviable. You are the sworn victim of all the -lady’s caprices, and can never move out of the rustle of her black silk -petticoats, or beyond the wave of her fan, without especial permission, -less frequently granted with complacence than refused with asperity. I -imagine she has very good-naturedly given him leave of absence to show -me about this royal village, or else I should<a name="page_vol_2_2361" id="page_vol_2_2361"></a> think he would hardly -venture to spare me so much of his company.</p> - -<p>We found her sitting <i>en famille</i> with her sister, and two young boys -her brothers, over a silver brazier in a snug interior apartment hung -with a bright valencia satin. She showed me the most pleasing marks of -civility and attention, and ordered her own apartments to be lighted up, -that I might see its magnificent furniture to advantage. The bed, of the -richest blue velvet trimmed with point lace, is beautifully shaped, and -placed in a spacious and deep recess hung round with an immense -profusion of ample curtains.</p> - -<p>I wonder architects and fitters up of apartments do not avail themselves -more frequently of the powers of drapery. Nothing produces so grand and -at the same time so comfortable an effect. The moment I have an -opportunity I will set about constructing a tabernacle, larger than the -one I arranged at Ramalhaô, and indulge myself in every variety of plait -and fold that can possibly be invented.</p> - -<p>Madame d’Aranda’s toilet, designed by Moite the sculptor and executed by -Auguste, is by far the most exquisite <i>chef-d’œuvre</i> of the<a name="page_vol_2_2362" id="page_vol_2_2362"></a> kind I -ever saw. Poor thing! she has every exterior delight the pomps and -vanities of the world can give; but she is married to a man old enough -to be her grandfather, and looks as pale and drooping as a narcissus or -lily of the valley would appear if stuck in Abraham’s bosom, and -continually breathed upon by that venerable patriarch.</p> - -<p>After passing a delightful hour in what appeared to me an ethereal sort -of fairy-land, we went to a far more earthly abode, that of a Madame -Badaan, who is so obliging as to give immense assemblies once or twice a -week, in rather confined apartments. This small, but convenient -habitation, is no idle or unimportant resort for cortejos off duty, or -in search of novel adventures. Several of these disbanded worthies were -lounging about in the mean time, quite lackadaisically. There was a -blaze of beauty in every corner of the room, sufficient to enchant those -the least given to being enchanted; and there frisked the two little -Sabatinis, half Spanish, half Italian, sporting their neatly turned -ankles; and there sat Madame de Villamayor in all her pride, and her -daughters so full of promise; and the Marchioness<a name="page_vol_2_2363" id="page_vol_2_2363"></a> of Santa Cruz, with -her dark hair and blue eyes, in all her loveliness. How delighted my -friend, the Effendi, must have been upon entering such a paradise, which -he soon did after we arrived there, followed by his Armenian -interpreter, whom I like better than the Greek, Timoni, with his prying, -squirrelish look, and malicious propensities.</p> - -<p>The ambassador found me out almost immediately, and taking me to an -angle of the apartment, where a well-cushioned divan had been prepared -for his lollification, made me sit down by him whether I would or not. -We were just settled, when a bevy of young tits dressed out in a -fantastic, blowzy style, with sparkling eyes and streaming ribbons, drew -their chairs round us, and began talking a strange lingua-franca, -composed of three or four different languages. We must have formed a -curious group; I was declaiming and gesticulating with all my might, -reciting scraps of Hafiz and Mesihi, whilst the ladies, none of the -tallest, who were seated on low chairs, kept perking up their pretty -little inquisitive faces in the very beard of the stately Moslem, whose -solemn<a name="page_vol_2_2364" id="page_vol_2_2364"></a> demeanour formed an amusing contrast to their giddy vivacity.</p> - -<p>Madame Badaan and her spouse, the very best people in the world, and the -readiest to afford their company all possible varieties of -accommodation, sent for the most famous band of musicians Madrid could -boast of, and proposed a dance for the entertainment of his bearded -excellency. Accordingly, thirteen or fourteen couples started, and -boleroed and fandangoed away upon a thick carpet for an hour or two, -without intermission. There are scarcely any boarded floors in Madrid, -so the custom of dancing upon rugs is universally established.<a name="page_vol_2_2365" id="page_vol_2_2365"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVII-spn" id="LETTER_XVII-spn"></a>LETTER XVII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Valley of Aranjuez.—The island garden.—The palace.—Strange -medley of pictures.—Oratories of the King and the -Queen.—Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by -Mengs.—Boundless freedom of conduct in the present -reign.—Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna’s house.—Apathy -pervading the whole Iberian peninsula.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Tuesday, December 1st, 1795.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was on a clear bright morning (scarce any frost) that we left a -wretched place called Villatoba, falling into ruins like almost all the -towns and villages I have seen in Spain. The sky was so transparent, so -pearly, and the sunbeams so fresh and reviving, that the country -appeared pleasant in spite of its flatness and aridity. Every tree has -been cut down, and all chance of their being replaced precluded by the -wandering flocks of sheep, goats and swine, which rout, and grout, and -nibble uncontrolled and unmolested.<a name="page_vol_2_2366" id="page_vol_2_2366"></a></p> - -<p>At length, after a tedious drive through vast tracts of desolate -country, scarce a house, scarce a shrub, scarce a human being to meet -with, we descended a rapid declivity, and I once more found myself in -the valley of Aranjuez. The avenues of poplar and plane have shot up to -a striking elevation since I saw them last. The planes on the banks of -the Tagus incline most respectfully towards its waters; they are -vigorously luxuriant, although planted only seven years ago, as the -gardener informed me.</p> - -<p>Charles the Fifth’s elms in the island-garden close to the palace are -decaying apace. I visited the nine venerable stumps close to a hideous -brick-ruin; the largest measures forty or fifty feet in girth; the roots -are picturesquely fantastic. The fountains, like the shades in which -they are embowered, are rapidly going to decay: the bronze Venus, at the -fountain which takes its name from Don John of Austria, has lost her -arm.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the dreariness of the season with all its accompaniment -of dry leaves and faded herbage, this historic garden had still charms; -the air was mild, and the sunbeams<a name="page_vol_2_2367" id="page_vol_2_2367"></a> played on the Tagus, and many a bird -flitted from spray to spray. Several long alleys of the loftiest elms, -their huge rough trunks mantled with ivy, and their grotesque roots -advancing and receding like grotto-work into the walk, struck me as -singularly pleasing.</p> - -<p>The palace has not been long completed; the additions made by Charles -the Third agree not ill with the original edifice. It is a comfortable, -though not a magnificent abode; walls thick, windows cheerfully glazed -in two panels, neat low chimney-pieces in many of the apartments; few -traces of the days of the Philips; scarce any furniture that bespeak an -ancient family. A flimsy modern style, half Italian, half French, -prevails. Even the pictures are, in point of subjects, preservation, -originality, and masters, as strangely jumbled together as in the -dominions of an auctioneer. This may be accounted for by their being -collected indiscriminately by the present King, whilst prince of -Asturias. Amongst innumerable trash, I noticed a Crucifixion by Mengs; -not overburthened with expression, but finely coloured; the back-ground -and sky<a name="page_vol_2_2368" id="page_vol_2_2368"></a> most gloomily portentous, and producing a grand effect of light -and shade. The interior of a gothic church, by Peter Neef, so fine, so -clear, so silvery in point of tint, as to reconcile me, (for the moment, -at least,) to this harsh, stiff master; the figures exquisite, the -preservation perfect; no varnish, no retouches.</p> - -<p>A set of twelve small cabinet pictures, touched with admirable spirit by -Teniers, the subjects taken from the Gierusalemme Liberata, treated as -familiarly as if the boozy painter had been still copying his -pot-companions. Armida’s palace is a little round summer-house; she -herself, habited like a burgher’s frouw in her holiday garments, holds a -Nuremberg-shaped looking-glass up to the broad vulgar face of a boorish -Rinaldo. The fair Naiads, comfortably fat, and most invitingly smirkish, -are naked to be sure, but a pile of furbelowed garments and farthingales -is ostentatiously displayed on the bank of the water; close by a small -table covered with a neat white tablecloth, and garnished with silver -tankards, cold pie, and salvers of custard and jellies. All these vulgar -accessories are finished with scrupulous delicacy.</p> - -<p>Several oratories open into the royal apartments.<a name="page_vol_2_2369" id="page_vol_2_2369"></a> One set apart for the -Queen is adorned with a very costly, and at the same time beautiful -altar, rich, simple, and majestic; not an ornament is lavished in vain. -Two Corinthian columns of a most beautiful purple and white marble, -sustain a pediment, as highly polished and as richly mottled as any -agate I ever beheld; the capitals are bronze splendidly gilt, so is the -foliage of the consoles supporting the slab which forms the altar. The -design, the materials, the workmanship, are all Spanish, and do the -nation credit.</p> - -<p>The king’s oratory is much larger, and not ill-designed; the proportion -is good, about twenty-six by twenty-two, and twenty-four high, besides a -solemn recess for the altar. The walls entirely covered with -fresco-painting; saints, prophets, clouds, and angels, in grand -confusion. The sides of the arch, and all the frame of the altar-piece, -are profusely and solidly gilt. A plinth of jasper, and a skirting about -three feet high, of a light-grey marble, streaked with black, not unlike -the capricious ramifications on mocho-stones, and polished as a mirror, -is continued round the room, so that nothing meets the eye but the rich -gleam of<a name="page_vol_2_2370" id="page_vol_2_2370"></a> gold, painting, and marble, all blended together in one -glowing tint. The pavement, too, of different Spanish marbles, is a -<i>chef-d’œuvre</i> of workmanship. I particularly admired the soft -ivory-hue of the white marble, but my conductor allowed it little merit -when compared with that of Italy: I think him mistaken in this remark, -and heartily wish him so in many others.</p> - -<p>This conductor, an old snuffling domestic of the late king, was rather -forward in making his remarks upon times present. A sort of Piedmontese -in my train, I believe the master of the fonda where I lodge, pointing -to a <i>manege</i> now building, asked for whom it was designed, the King or -the Duke d’Alcudia? “For both, no doubt,” was the answer; “what serves -one serves the other.” In the royal tribune, I was informed, with a -woful shrug, that the King, thank God! continued to be exact and fervent -in his devotions; never missing mass a single day, and frequently -spending considerable time in mental prayer; but that the Queen was -scandalously remiss, and seldom appeared in the chapels, except when -some slender remains<a name="page_vol_2_2371" id="page_vol_2_2371"></a> of etiquette render her presence indispensable.</p> - -<p>The chapel, repaired after designs of Sabbatini, an old Italian -architect, much in favour with Charles the Third, has merit, and is -remarkable for the just distribution of light, which produces a solemn -religious effect. The three altars are noble, and their paintings good. -One in particular, on the right, dedicated to St. Anthony, immediately -attracted my attention by the effulgence of glory amidst which the -infant Jesus is descending to caress the kneeling saint, whose attitude, -and youthful, enthusiastic countenance, have great expression. The -colouring is warm and harmonious; Maella is the painter.</p> - -<p>I inquired after a remarkable room in this palace, called in the plan -<i>Salon de los Funciones</i>, and vulgarly <i>el Coliseo</i>. The ceiling was -painted by Mengs, and esteemed one of his capital works: here Ferdinand -and Barbara, the most musical of sovereigns, used to melt in ecstasies -at the soft warblings of Farinelli and Egiziello—but, alas! the scene -of their amusements, like themselves and their<a name="page_vol_2_2372" id="page_vol_2_2372"></a> warblers, is no more. -Not later than last summer, this grand theatrical apartment was divided -into a suite of shabby, bandboxical rooms for the accommodation of the -Infant of Parma. No mercy was shown to the beautiful roof. In some -places, legs and folds of drapery are still visible; but the workmen are -hammering and plastering at a great rate, and in a few days whitewash -will cover all.</p> - -<p>Coming out of the palace, and observing how deserted and melancholy the -walks, garden, and avenues appeared, I was told, that in a few weeks a -total change would take place, for the court was expected on the 6th of -January, to remain six months, and that every pleasure followed in its -train. Shoals of gamblers, and ladies of easy virtue of all ranks, ages, -and descriptions. Every barrier which Charles the Third, of chaste and -pious memory, attempted to oppose to the wanton inclinations of his -subjects, has been broken down in the present reign; boundless freedom -of conduct prevails, and the most disgusting debauchery riots in these -lovely groves, which deserve to be set apart for elegant and rural -pleasures.<a name="page_vol_2_2373" id="page_vol_2_2373"></a></p> - -<p>In my walks I passed a huge edifice lately built for the favourite -Alcudia. Common report accuses it of being more magnificently furnished -than the royal residence; but as I did not enter it, I shall content -myself with noting down, that it boasts nineteen windows in front, and a -plain Tuscan portal with handsome granite pillars. Adjoining is a house -belonging to the Duchess of Ossuna, full of workmen, painters, and -stuccadors: a goggle-eyed Milanese, most fiercely conceited, is daubing -the walls with all his might and main. He is an architect too, at least -I have his word for it, and claims the merit, a great one as he -believes, of having designed a sort of ball-room, with many a festoon -and Bohemian glass-chandelier and coarse arabesque. The floor is -bricked, upon which thick mats or carpets are spread when dancing is -going forward.</p> - -<p>I was in hopes this tiresome custom of thumping mats and rugs with the -feet, to the brisk airs of boleros and fandangos, was exploded. No music -is more inspiring than the Spanish; what a pity they refuse themselves -the joy of rising a foot or two into the air at every step, by the help -of elastic boards.<a name="page_vol_2_2374" id="page_vol_2_2374"></a></p> - -<p>Next to this sort of a ball-room is a sort of an oval boudoir, and then -a sort of an octagon; all bad sorts of their kind. This confounded -painter is covering the oval with landscapes, not half so harmonious or -spirited as those which figure on Birmingham snuff-boxes or tea-boards. -He has a terrible partiality to blues and greens of the crudest tints. -Such colours affect my eyes as disagreeably as certain sounds my teeth, -when set on edge. I pity the Duchess of Ossuna, whose liberal desire of -encouraging the arts deserves better artists. In music she has been more -fortunate: Boccharini directed her band when I was last at Madrid; and I -remember with what transport she heard and applauded the Galli, to whom -she sent one morning a present of the most expensive trinkets, -carelessly heaped up upon a magnificent salver of massive silver, two or -three feet in diameter.</p> - -<p>The day closed as I was wandering about the Duchess’s mansion, surprised -at the slovenly neglect of the furniture, not an article of which has -been moved out of the reach of dust, scaffoldings, the exhalations of -paint, and the still more pestilential exhalation of garlick<a name="page_vol_2_2375" id="page_vol_2_2375"></a>-eating -workmen. Universal apathy and indifference to everything seems to -pervade the whole Iberian peninsula. If not caring what you eat or what -you drink is a virtue, so far the evangelical precept is obeyed. So it -is in Portugal, and so it is in Spain, and so it looks likely to be -world without end: to which, let the rest of Europe say amen; for were -these countries to open their long-closed eyes, cast off their trammels, -and rouse themselves to industry, they would soon surpass their -neighbours in wealth and population.<a name="page_vol_2_2376" id="page_vol_2_2376"></a></p> - -<h3><a name="LETTER_XVIII-spn" id="LETTER_XVIII-spn"></a>LETTER XVIII.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.—Destructive rage -for improvement.—Loveliness of the valley of -Aranjuez.—Undisturbed happiness of the animals -there.—Degeneration of the race of grandees.—A royal cook.</p></div> - -<p class="rht">Wednesday, Dec. 2nd, 1795.</p> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was near eleven before a thick fog, which had arisen from the groves -and waters of Aranjuez, dispersed. I took advantage of a bright sunshine -to issue forth on horseback, and explore the extremities of the Calle de -la Reyna. Most of the ancient elms which compose this noble avenue, are -dead-topped, many have lost their flourishing heads since I was last -here, but on every side innumerable plantations of oak, elm, poplar, and -plane, are springing up in all the vigour and luxuriance of youth. I was -sorry to see many, very many acres of unmeaning<a name="page_vol_2_2377" id="page_vol_2_2377"></a> shrubbery, serpentine -walks, and clumps of paltry flowers, encroaching upon the wild thickets -upon the banks of the Tagus.</p> - -<p>The King, the Queen, the favourite, are bitten by the rage of what they -fancy to be improvement, and are levelling ground, and smoothing banks, -and building rock-work, with pagodas and Chinese-railing. The laburnums, -weeping-willows, and flowering shrubs, which I admired so much seven -years ago in all their native luxuriance, are beginning to be trimmed -and tortured into what the gardener calls genteel shapes. Even the -course of the Tagus has been thwarted, and part of its waters diverted -into a broad ditch in order to form an island; flat, swampy, and dotted -over with exotic shrubs, to make room for which many a venerable arbele -and poplar has been laid low.</p> - -<p>Hard by stands a large brick mansion, just erected, in the dullest and -commonest Spanish taste, very improperly called Casa del Labrador. It -has nothing rural about it, not even a hen-roost or a hog-sty; but the -kitchen is snug and commodious, and to this his Catholic Majesty often -resorts, and cooks with his own<a name="page_vol_2_2378" id="page_vol_2_2378"></a> royal hands, and for his own royal -self, creadillas, (alias lamb’s fry,) garlick-omelets, and other savoury -messes, in the national style.</p> - -<p>Nothing delights the good-natured monarch so much as a pretence for -descending into low life, and creeping out of the sight of his court, -his council, and his people; therefore Madrid is almost totally -abandoned by him, and many capricious buildings are starting up in every -secluded corner of the royal parks and gardens. This last is the ugliest -and most unmeaning of all. I recollect being pleased with the casinos he -built whilst Prince of Asturias, at the Escurial and the Pardo. His -present advisers, in matters of taste, are inferior even to those who -direct his political movements; and the workmen, who obey the first, -still more unskilful and bungling than the generals, admirals, and -engineers, who carry the plans of the latter into execution.</p> - -<p>If they would but let Aranjuez alone, I should not care. Nature has -lavished her charms most bountifully on this valley; the wild hills -which close it in, though barren, are picturesquely-shaped; the Tagus -here winds along in the boldest manner, overhung by<a name="page_vol_2_2379" id="page_vol_2_2379"></a> crooked willows and -lofty arbeles; now losing itself in almost impervious thickets, now -under-mining steep banks, laying rocks bare, and forming irregular coves -and recesses; now flowing smoothly through vast tracts of low shrubs, -aspens, and tamarisks; in one spot edged by the most delicate -greensward, in another by beds of mint and a thousand other fragrant -herbs. I saw numerous herds of deer bounding along in full enjoyment of -pasture and liberty; droves of horses, many of a soft cream-colour, were -frisking about under some gigantic alders; and I counted one hundred and -eighty cows, of a most remarkable size, in a green meadow, ruminating in -peace and plenty.</p> - -<p>The animal creation at Aranjuez seem, undoubtedly, to enjoy all the -blessings of an excellent government. The breed is peculiarly attended -to, and no pains or expense spared, to procure the finest bulls from -every quarter. Cows more beautifully dappled, more comfortably sleek, I -never beheld.</p> - -<p>If the race of grandees could, by judicious crossing, be sustained as -successfully, Spain would not have to lament her present scurvy,<a name="page_vol_2_2380" id="page_vol_2_2380"></a> -ill-favoured generation of nobility. Should they be suffered to dwindle -much longer, and accumulate estates and diseases by eternal -intermarriages in the same family, I expect to see them on all-fours -before the next century is much advanced in its course. These little -men, however, are not without some sparks of a lofty, resolute spirit; -very few, indeed, have bowed the knee to the Baal of the present hour, -to the image which the King has set up. A train of eager, hungry -dependants, picked out of inferior and foreign classes, form the company -of the Duke of Alcudia. Notwithstanding his lofty titles, unbounded -wealth, solid power, and dazzling magnificence, he is treated by the -first class with silent contempt and passive indifference. They read the -tale of his illustrious descent with the same sneering incredulity, as -the patents and decrees which enumerate the services he has done the -state. Few instances, perhaps, are upon record, of a more steady, -persevering contempt of an object in actual power, stamped with every -ornament royal favour can devise to give it credit, value, and currency.</p> - -<p>A thousand interesting reflections arising<a name="page_vol_2_2381" id="page_vol_2_2381"></a> from this subject crowded my -mind as I rode home through the stately and now deserted alleys of -Aranjuez. The weather was growing chill, and the withered leaves began -to rustle. I was glad to take refuge by a blazing fire. Money, which -procures almost everything, had not failed to seduce the best salads and -apples from the royal gardens, admirable butter and good game; so I -feasted royally, though I dare say I should have done more so, in the -most extensive sense of the word, could some supernatural power or -Frenchified revolution have procured me the royal cook. His Majesty, I -am assured, by those I am far from suspecting of flattery, has real -talents for this most useful profession.</p> - -<p>The comfortable listlessness which had crept over me was too pleasant to -be shaken off, and I remained snug by my fireside the whole evening.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c"><small>THE END.</small></p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c"><small>LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,<br /> -Dorset Street, Fleet Street.</small></p> - -<p><a name="transc" id="transc"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border:3px dotted gray;padding:2%;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">headach</span> and indisposition=> headache and indisposition {pg v1 185}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">so wan and <span class="errata">singugular</span>=> so wan and singular {pg v1 201}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">into some <span class="errata">inchanted</span> cave=> into some enchanted cave {pg v1 231}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">suprising</span> variety of other plants=> surprising variety of other plants {pg v1 351}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">The <span class="errata">shubberies</span> and garden=> The shrubberies and garden {pg v2 182}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">ton</span> at present in this court=> tone at present in this court {pg v2 240}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">statu</span> quo=> status quo {pg v2 243}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Nuestra <span class="errata">Senora</span>=> Nuestra Señora {pg v2 286}</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This crucifix was made of the bronze which had formed the -statue of the terrible Duke of Alva, swept in its first form from the -citadel where it was proudly stationed, in a moment of popular fury.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The History of John Bull explains this ridiculous -appellation.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Hills in the neighbourhood of Canton.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Apuleius Met: Lib. 5. -</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Vehementer iterum ac sæpius beatos illos qui<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Super gemmas et monilia calcant!<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Schönberg, beautiful mountain.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Ariosto Orlando Furioso.—<i>Canto 7, stanza 32.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> A nephew of Bertoni, the celebrated composer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> This excellent and highly cultivated woman died at Naples -in August 1782. Had she lived to a later period her example and -influence might probably have gone great lengths towards arresting that -tide of corruption and profligacy which swept off this ill-fated court -to Sicily, and threatened its total destruction.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i. p. 439.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> The Piscina mirabilis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> See Letter VII.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> See Miss Williams’s poems.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Since Marquis of Abrantes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Writers of travels are sadly given to exaggeration. The -author of the Tableau du Lisbonne writes, “Il est dix heures, une foule -de P. de Ch. s’avance,” &c. From such an account one would suppose the -whole line of houses in motion. No such thing. At intervals, to be sure, -some accidents of this sort, more or less, slily occur; but by no means -in so general and evident a manner.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> These affecting tones seem to have made a lasting -impression indeed upon the heart of a young man, one of the principal -clerks in the Secretary of State’s office; he was all admiration, all -ardour, his divinity all indifference. After a long period of unavailing -courtship, the poor lover, driven to absolute despair, made a donation -of all he was worth in the world to the object of his adoration, and -threw himself into the Tagus. Providentially he was fished out and -brought home, pale and almost inanimate. Such a spectacle, accompanied -by so vivid a proof of unlimited passion, had its effect. The lady -relented, they were united, and are as happy at this day, I believe, as -the recollection of so narrow an escape, and its cause, can make them.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> An old English housekeeper.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> For no light specimen of these atrocities, see Southey’s -Letters from Spain and Portugal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Don Joaô da Valperra.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> At the time I wrote this, half Lisbon believed in the -individuality of the holy crows, and the other half prudently concealed -their scepticism.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Don Josè, elder brother of the late king, John VI.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Dryden.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> The royal chapel of the Ajuda, though somewhat fallen from -the unequalled splendour it boasted during the sing-song days of the -late king, Don Joseph, still displayed some of the finest specimens of -vocal manufacture which Italy could furnish. It possessed, at the same -time, Carlo Reina, Ferracuti, Totti, Fedelino, Ripa, Gelati, Venanzio, -Biagino, and Marini—all these <i>virtuosi</i>, with names ending in vowels, -were either <i>contraltos</i> of the softest note, or <i>sopranos</i> of the -highest squeakery.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Now Marquis of Tancos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> About the period of the present king’s accession, several -ladies of this description had bounced into the peerage; but as they did -not walk at the coronation, somebody observed, it was odd enough that -the peeresses best accustomed to a free use of their limbs, declined -stirring a step upon this occasion. Horace Walpole mentions this bon mot -in some of his letters; I forget to whom he attributes it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The personage in question paid dearly for having listened -to evil counsellors and exciting the suspicions of the church. In about -a twelvemonth after this conversation, the small pox, not attended to so -skilfully as it might have been, was suffered to carry him off, and -reduced his imperious widow to a mere cipher in the politics of a court -she had begun very successfully to agitate. To this period the cruel -distress of the queen’s mind may be traced. The conflict between -maternal tenderness and what she thought political duty, may be supposed -with much greater probability to have produced her fatal derangement, -than all the scruples respecting the Aveiro and Tavoura confiscations -which the fanatical, interested priest, who succeeded my excellent -friend, excited.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> A well-known wily diplomatist, afterwards ambassador at -Constantinople.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> He resided afterwards at Paris in a diplomatic character, -and is supposed to have been implicated in some of the least amiable -events of the revolution. A mysterious passage in the first volume of -Soulavie’s Memoirs is said to refer to him. He was particularly intimate -with citizen Egalité.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> A nephew of the famous Angelica, and no indifferent -painter himself.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> I have seen a beautiful portrait, engraved by Selma, of -this image, and dedicated in due form to its first lady of the -dressing-room, Marchioness of Cogolhudo, Duchess of San Estévan, &c.</p></div> - -</div> -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Italy; with sketches of Spain and -Portugal, by William Beckford - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALY *** - -***** This file should be named 41150-h.htm or 41150-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/1/5/41150/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was -produced from scanned images of public domain material -from the Google Print project.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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