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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/4054-h.zip b/4054-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6188e9b --- /dev/null +++ b/4054-h.zip diff --git a/4054-h/4054-h.htm b/4054-h/4054-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe85884 --- /dev/null +++ b/4054-h/4054-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7449 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<HTML> +<HEAD> + +<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + +<TITLE> +The Project Gutenberg E-text of A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852-53, +by Mrs Charles (Ellen) Clacey +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: small } + +P.letter {text-indent: 0%; + font-size: small ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.footnote {font-size: small ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +P.finis { font-size: larger ; + text-align: center ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of +Australia in 1852-53., by Mrs. Charles (Ellen) Clacey + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852-53. + +Author: Mrs. Charles (Ellen) Clacey + +Posting Date: June 29, 2009 [EBook #4054] +Release Date: May, 2003 +First Posted: October 22, 2001 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LADY'S VISIT TO GOLD DIGGINGS *** + + + + +Produced by Col. Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + +</pre> + + +<BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings<BR> +of Australia in 1852-53 +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +by +</H3> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +Mrs Charles (Ellen) Clacy +</H2> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +CONTENTS +</H2> + +<TABLE ALIGN="center" WIDTH="80%"> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter I. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap01">INTRODUCTORY REMARKS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter II. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap02">THE VOYAGE OUT</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter III. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap03">STAY IN MELBOURNE</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter IV. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap04">CAMPING UP—MELBOURNE TO THE BLACK FOREST</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter V. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap05">CAMPING UP—BLACK FOREST TO EAGLE HAWK GULLY</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter VI. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap06">THE DIGGINGS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter VII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap07">EAGLE HAWK GULLY</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter VIII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap08">AN ADVENTURE</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter IX. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap09">HARRIETTE WALTERS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter X. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap10">IRONBARK GULLY</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XI. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap11">FOREST CREEK</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap12">RETURN TO MELBOURNE</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XIII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap13">BALLARAT</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XIV. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap14">NEW SOUTH WALES</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XV. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap15">SOUTH AUSTRALIA</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XVI. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap16">MELBOURNE AGAIN</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XVII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap17">HOMEWARD BOUND</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">Chapter XVIII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap18">CONCLUSION</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top">APPENDIX. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#appendix">WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE?</A></TD> +</TR> + +</TABLE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap01"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter I. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +INTRODUCTORY REMARKS +</H3> + +<P> +It may be deemed presumptuous that one of my age and sex should venture +to give to the public an account of personal adventures in a land which +has so often been descanted upon by other and abler pens; but when I +reflect on the many mothers, wives, and sisters in England, whose +hearts are ever longing for information respecting the dangers and +privations to which their relatives at the antipodes are exposed, +I cannot but hope that the presumption of my undertaking may be +pardoned in consideration of the pleasure which an accurate description +of some of the Australian Gold Fields may perhaps afford to many; and +although the time of my residence in the colonies was short, I had the +advantage (not only in Melbourne, but whilst in the bush) of constant +intercourse with many experienced diggers and old colonists—thus +having every facility for acquiring information respecting Victoria and +the other colonies. +</P> + +<P> +It was in the beginning of April, 185-, that the excitement +occasioned by the published accounts of the Victoria "Diggings," +induced my brother to fling aside his Homer and Euclid for the various +"Guides" printed for the benefit of the intending gold-seeker, or to +ponder over the shipping columns of the daily papers. The love of +adventure must be contagious, for three weeks after (so rapid were our +preparations) found myself accompanying him to those auriferous +regions. The following pages will give an accurate detail of my +adventures there—in a lack of the marvellous will consist their +principal faults but not even to please would I venture to turn +uninteresting truth into agreeable fiction. Of the few statistics which +occur, I may safely say, as of the more personal portions, that they +are strictly true. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap02"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter II. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE VOYAGE OUT +</H3> + +<P> +Everything was ready—boxes packed, tinned, and corded; farewells +taken, and ourselves whirling down by rail to Gravesend—too much +excited—too full of the future to experience that sickening of the +heart, that desolation of the feelings, which usually accompanies an +expatriation, however voluntary, from the dearly loved shores of one's +native land. Although in the cloudy month of April, the sun shone +brightly on the masts of our bonny bark, which lay in full sight of the +windows of the "Old Falcon," where we had taken up our temporary +quarters. The sea was very rough, but as we were anxious to get +on board without farther delay, we entrusted our valuable lives in a +four-oared boat, despite the dismal prognostications of our worthy +host. A pleasant row that was, at one moment covered over with +salt-water—the next riding on the top of a wave, ten times the size +of our frail conveyance—then came a sudden concussion—in veering +our rudder smashed into a smaller boat, which immediately filled and +sank, and our rowers disheartened at this mishap would go no farther. +The return was still rougher—my face smarted dreadfully from the +cutting splashes of the salt-water; they contrived, however, to land us +safely at the "Old Falcon," though in a most pitiable plight; charging +only a sovereign for this delightful trip—very moderate, considering +the number of salt-water baths they had given us gratis. In the evening +a second trial proved more successful, and we reached our vessel +safely. +</P> + +<P> +A first night on board ship has in it something very strange, and the +first awakening in the morning is still more so. To find oneself in a +space of some six feet by eight, instead of a good-sized room, and +lying in a cot, scarce wide enough to turn round in, as a +substitute for a four-post bedstead, reminds you in no very agreeable +manner that you have exchanged the comforts of Old England for the +"roughing it" of a sea life. The first sound that awoke me was the +"cheerily" song of the sailors, as the anchor was heaved—not again, +we trusted, to be lowered till our eyes should rest on the waters of +Port Philip. And then the cry of "raise tacks and sheets" (which I, in +nautical ignorance, interpreted "hay-stacks and sheep") sent many a +sluggard from their berths to bid a last farewell to the banks of the +Thames. +</P> + +<P> +In the afternoon we parted company with our steam-tug, and next +morning, whilst off the Isle of Wight, our pilot also took his +departure. Sea-sickness now became the fashion, but, as I cannot speak +from experience of its sensations, I shall altogether decline the +subject. On Friday, the 30th, we sighted Stark Point; and as the last +speck of English land faded away in the distance, an intense feeling of +misery crept over me, as I reflected that perchance I had left those +most dear to return to them no more. But I forget; a description of +private feelings is, to uninterested readers, only so much +twaddle, besides being more egotistical than even an account of +personal adventures could extenuate; so, with the exception of a few +extracts from my "log," I shall jump at once from the English Channel +to the more exciting shores of Victoria. +</P> + +<P> +WEDNESDAY, MAY 5, lat. 45 degrees 57 minutes N., long. 11 degrees 45 +minutes W.—Whilst off the Bay of Biscay, for the first time I had the +pleasure of seeing the phosphoric light in the water, and the effect was +indeed too beautiful to describe. I gazed again and again, and, as the +darkness above became more dense, the silence of evening more profound, +and the moving lights beneath more brilliant, I could have believed them +the eyes of the Undines, who had quitted their cool grottos beneath the +sea to gaze on the daring ones who were sailing above them. At times one +of these stars of the ocean would seem to linger around our vessel, as +though loth to leave the admiring eyes that watched its glittering +progress.* * * * * +</P> + +<P> +SUNDAY, 9, lat. 37 degrees 53 minutes N., long. 15 degrees 32 minutes +W.—Great excitement throughout the ship. Early in the morning a +homeward-bound sail hove in sight, and as the sea was very calm, our +captain kindly promised to lower a boat and send letters by her. What a +scene then commenced; nothing but scribes and writing-desks met the view, +and nought was heard but the scratching of pens, and energetic demands for +foreign letter-paper, vestas, or sealing-wax; then came a rush on deck, to +witness the important packet delivered to the care of the first mate, +and watch the progress of the little bark that was to bear among so +many homes the glad tidings of our safety. On she came—her stunsails +set—her white sails glittering in the sun—skimming like a sea-bird +over the waters. She proved to be the Maltese schooner 'Felix,' bound +for Bremen. Her captain treated the visitors from our ship with the +greatest politeness, promised to consign our letters to the first pilot +he should encounter off the English coast, and sent his very last +oranges as a present to the ladies, for which we sincerely thanked him; +the increasing heat of the weather made them acceptable indeed. +</P> + +<P> +WEDNESDAY, 12, lat. 33 degrees 19 minutes N., long. 17 degrees 30 +minutes W.—At about noon we sighted Madeira. At first it appeared little +more than a dark cloud above the horizon; gradually the sides of the rocks +became clearly discernible, then the wind bore us onward, and soon all +traces of the sunny isle were gone. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY, 28, lat. 4 degrees 2 minutes N., long. 21 degrees 30 minutes +W.—Another opportunity of sending letters, but as this was the second +time of so doing, the excitement was proportionately diminished. This +vessel was bound for the port of Liverpool, from the coast of Africa; +her cargo (so said those of our fellow-travellers who boarded her), +consisted of ebony and gold-dust, her only passengers being monkeys and +parrots. +</P> + +<P> +SUNDAY, JUNE 6, long. 24 degrees 38 minutes W.—Crossed the Line, to the +great satisfaction of all on board, as we had been becalmed more than a +week, and were weary of gazing upon the unruffled waters around us, or +watching the sails as they idly flapped to and fro. Chess, backgammon, +books and cards, had ceased to beguile the hours away, and the only +amusement left was lowering a boat and rowing about within a short +distance of the ship, but this (even by those not pulling at the oars) +was considered too fatiguing work, for a tropical sun was above us, and +the heat was most intense. Our only resource was to give ourselves up +to a sort of DOLCE FAR NIENTE existence, and lounge upon the +deck, sipping lemonade or lime-juice, beneath a large awning which +extended from the fore to the mizen masts. +</P> + +<P> +TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, lat. 39 degrees 28 minutes S., long. 136 degrees 31 +minutes E.—Early this morning one of the sailors died, and before noon +the last services of the Church of England were read over his body; this +was the first and only death that occurred during our long passage, and +the solemnity of committing his last remains to their watery grave cast a +saddening influence over the most thoughtless. I shall never forget the +moment when the sewn-up hammock, with a gaily coloured flag wrapped round +it, was launched into the deep; those who can witness with indifference a +funeral on land, would, I think, find it impossible to resist the +thrilling awe inspired by such an event at sea. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY, 20, lat. 38 degrees 57 minutes S., long. 140 degrees 5 minutes +E.—Sighted Moonlight Head, the next day Cape Otway; and in the afternoon +of Sunday, the 22nd, we entered the Heads, and our pilot came on board. He +was a smart, active fellow, and immediately anchored us within the bay +(a heavy gale brewing); and then, after having done colonial justice to a +substantial dinner, he edified us with the last Melbourne news. "Not a +spare room or bed to be had—no living at all under a pound a-day—every +one with ten fingers making ten to twenty pounds a-week." "Then +of course no one goes to the diggings?" "Oh, that pays better still—the +gold obliged to be quarried—a pound weight of no value." The +excitement that evening can scarcely be imagined, but it somewhat +abated next morning on his telling us to diminish his accounts some 200 +per cent. +</P> + +<P> +MONDAY, 23.—The wind high, and blowing right against us. Compelled to +remain at anchor, only too thankful to be in such safe quarters. +</P> + +<P> +TUESDAY, 24.—Got under weigh at half-past seven in the morning, and +passed the wrecks of two vessels, whose captains had attempted to come +in without a pilot, rather than wait for one—the increased number of +vessels arriving, causing the pilots to be frequently all engaged. The +bay, which is truly splendid, was crowded with shipping. In a few hours +our anchor was lowered for the last time—boats were put off +towards our ship from Liardet's Beach—we were lowered into the first +that came alongside—a twenty minutes' pull to the landing-place—another +minute, and we trod the golden shores of Victoria. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap03"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter III. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +STAY IN MELBOURNE +</H3> + +<P> +At last we are in Australia. Our feet feel strange as they tread upon +TERRA FIRMA, and our SEA-LEGS (to use a sailor's phrase) are not so +ready to leave us after a four months' service, as we should have +anticipated; but it matters little, for we are in the colonies, walking +with undignified, awkward gait, not on a fashionable promenade, but +upon a little wooden pier. +</P> + +<P> +The first sounds that greet our ears are the noisy tones of some +watermen, who are loitering on the building of wooden logs and boards, +which we, as do the good people of Victoria, dignify with the +undeserved title of PIER. There they stand in their waterproof caps and +skins—tolerably idle and exceedingly independent—with one eye on +the look out for a fare, and the other cast longingly towards the open +doors of Liardet's public-house, which is built a few yards from the +landing-place, and alongside the main road to Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +"Ah, skipper! times isn't as they used to was," shouted one, addressing +the captain of one of the vessels then lying in the bay, who was rowing +himself to shore, with no other assistant or companion than a +sailor-boy. The captain, a well-built, fine-looking specimen of an +English seaman, merely laughed at this impromptu salutation. +</P> + +<P> +"I say, skipper, I don't quite like that d——d stroke of yours." +</P> + +<P> +No answer; but, as if completely deaf to these remarks, as well as the +insulting tone in which they were delivered, the "skipper" continued +giving his orders to his boy, and then leisurely ascended the steps. He +walked straight up to the waterman, who was lounging against the +railing. +</P> + +<P> +"So, my fine fellow, you didn't quite admire that stroke of +mine. Now, I've another stroke that I think you'll admire still less," +and with one blow he sent him reeling against the railing on the +opposite side. +</P> + +<P> +The waterman slowly recovered his equilibrium, muttering, "that was a +safe dodge, as the gentleman knew he was the heaviest man of the two." +</P> + +<P> +"Then never let your tongue say what your fist can't defend," was the +cool retort, as another blow sent him staggering to his original place, +amidst the unrestrained laughter of his companions, whilst the captain +unconcernedly walked into Liardet's, whither we also betook ourselves, +not a little surprised and amused by this our first introduction to +colonial customs and manners. +</P> + +<P> +The fact is, the watermen regard the masters of the ships in the bay as +sworn enemies to their business; many are runaway sailors, and +therefore, I suppose, have a natural antipathy that way; added to +which, besides being no customers themselves, the "skippers," by the +loan of their boats, often save their friends from the exorbitant +charges these watermen levy. +</P> + +<P> +Exorbitant they truly are. Not a boat would they put off for the +nearest ship in the bay for less than a pound, and before I quitted +those regions, two and three times that sum was often demanded for only +one passenger. We had just paid at the rate of only three shillings and +sixpence each, but this trifling charge was in consideration of the +large party—more than a dozen—who had left our ship in the same +boat together. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile we have entered Liardet's EN ATTENDANT the Melbourne omnibus, +some of our number, too impatient to wait longer, had already started +on foot. We were shown into a clean, well-furnished sitting-room, with +mahogany dining-table and chairs, and a showy glass over the +mantelpicce. An English-looking barmaid entered. "Would the company +like some wine or spirits?" Some one ordered sherry, of which I only +remember that it was vile trash at eight shillings a bottle. +</P> + +<P> +And now the cry of "Here's the bus," brought us quickly outside again, +where we found several new arrivals also waiting for it. I had hoped, +from the name, or rather misname, of the conveyance, to gladden my eyes +with the sight of something civilized. Alas, for my disappointment! +There stood a long, tumble-to-pieces-looking waggon, not covered +in, with a plank down each side to sit upon, and a miserable narrow +plank it was. Into this vehicle were crammed a dozen people and an +innumerable host of portmanteaus, large and small, carpet-bags, +baskets, brown-paper parcels, bird-cage and inmate, &c., all of which, +as is generally the case, were packed in a manner the most calculated +to contribute the largest amount of inconvenience to the live portion +of the cargo. And to drag this grand affair into Melbourne were +harnessed thereto the most wretched-looking objects in the shape of +horses that I had ever beheld. +</P> + +<P> +A slight roll tells us we are off. +</P> + +<P> +"And is THIS the beautiful scenery of Australia?" was my first +melancholy reflection. Mud and swamp—swamp and mud—relieved here +and there by some few trees which looked as starved and miserable as +ourselves. The cattle we passed appeared in a wretched condition, and +the human beings on the road seemed all to belong to one family, so +truly Vandemonian was the cast of their countenances. +</P> + +<P> +"The rainy season's not over," observed the driver, in an +apologetic tone. Our eyes and uneasy limbs most FEELINGLY corroborated +his statement, for as we moved along at a foot-pace, the rolling of the +omnibus, owing to the deep ruts and heavy soil, brought us into most +unpleasant contact with the various packages before-mentioned. On we +went towards Melbourne—now stopping for the unhappy horses to take +breath—then passing our pedestrian messmates, and now arriving at a +small specimen of a swamp; and whilst they (with trowsers tucked high +above the knee and boots well saturated) step, slide and tumble +manfully through it, we give a fearful roll to the left, ditto, ditto +to the right, then a regular stand-still, or perhaps, by way of +variety, are all but jolted over the animals' heads, till at length all +minor considerations of bumps and bruises are merged in the anxiety to +escape without broken bones. +</P> + +<P> +"The Yarra," said the conductor. I looked straight ahead, and +innocently asked "Where?" for I could only discover a tract of marsh or +swamp, which I fancy must have resembled the fens of Lincolnshire, as +they were some years ago, before draining was introduced into +that county. Over Princes Bridge we now passed, up Swanston Street, +then into Great Bourke Street, and now we stand opposite the +Post-office—the appointed rendezvous with the walkers, who are there +awaiting us. Splashed, wet and tired, and also, I must confess, very +cross, right thankful was I to be carried over the dirty road and be +safely deposited beneath the wooden portico outside the Post-office. +Our ride to Melbourne cost us only half-a-crown a piece, and a shilling +for every parcel. The distance we had come was between two and three +miles. +</P> + +<P> +The non-arrival of the mail-steamer left us now no other care save the +all-important one of procuring food and shelter. Scouts were +accordingly despatched to the best hotels; they returned with long +faces—"full." The second-rate, and in fact every respectable inn and +boarding or lodging-house were tried but with no better success. Here +and there a solitary bed could be obtained, but for our digging party +entire, which consisted of my brother, four shipmates, and myself, no +accommodation could be procured, and we wished, if possible, to +keep together. "It's a case," ejaculated one, casting his eyes to the +slight roof above us as if calculating what sort of night shelter it +would afford. At this moment the two last searchers approached, their +countenances not quite so woe-begone as before. "Well?" exclaimed we +all in chorus, as we surrounded them, too impatient to interrogate at +greater length. Thank Heavens! they had been successful! The +house-keeper of a surgeon, who with his wife had just gone up to Forest +Creek, would receive us to board and lodge for thirty shillings a week +each; but as the accommodation was of the indifferent order, it was not +as yet UNE AFFAIRE ARRANGEE. On farther inquiry, we found the +indifferent accommodation consisted in their being but one small +sleeping-room for the gentlemen, and myself to share the bed and +apartment of the temporary mistress. This was vastly superior to +gipsying in the dirty streets, so we lost no time in securing our new +berths, and ere very long, with appetites undiminished by these petty +anxieties, we did ample justice to the dinner which our really kind +hostess quickly placed before us. +</P> + +<P> +The first night on shore after so long a voyage could scarcely +seem otherwise than strange, one missed the eternal rocking at which so +many grumble on board ship. Dogs (Melbourne is full of them) kept up an +incessant barking; revolvers were cracking in all directions until +daybreak, giving one a pleasant idea of the state of society; and last, +not least, of these annoyances was one unmentionable to ears polite, +which would alone have sufficed to drive sleep away from poor wearied +me. How I envied my companion, as accustomed to these disagreeables, +she slept soundly by my side; but morning at length dawned, and I fell +into a refreshing slumber. +</P> + +<P> +The next few days were busy ones for all, though rather dismal to me, +as I was confined almost entirely within doors, owing to the awful +state of the streets; for in the colonies, at this season of the year, +one may go out prepared for fine weather, with blue sky above, and dry +under foot, and in less than an hour, should a COLONIAL shower come on, +be unable to cross some of the streets without a plank being placed +from the middle of the road to the pathway, or the alternative of +walking in water up to the knees. +</P> + +<P> +This may seem a doleful and overdrawn picture of my first +colonial experience, but we had arrived at a time when the colony +presented its worst aspect to a stranger. The rainy season had been +unusually protracted this year, in fact it was not yet considered +entirely over, and the gold mines had completely upset everything and +everybody, and put a stop to all improvements about the town or +elsewhere. +</P> + +<P> +Our party, on returning to the ship the day after our arrival, +witnessed the French-leave-taking of all her crew, who during the +absence of the captain, jumped overboard, and were quickly picked up +and landed by the various boats about. This desertion of the ships by +the sailors is an every-day occurrence; the diggings themselves, or the +large amount they could obtain for the run home from another master, +offer too many temptations. Consequently, our passengers had the +amusement of hauling up from the hold their different goods and +chattels; and so great was the confusion, that fully a week elapsed +before they were all got to shore. Meanwhile we were getting initiated +into colonial prices—money did indeed take to itself wings and fly +away. Fire-arms were at a premium; one instance will suffice—my +brother sold a six-barrelled revolver for which he had given +sixty shillings at Baker's, in Fleet Street, for sixteen pounds, and +the parting with it at that price was looked upon as a great favour. +Imagine boots, and they very second-rate ones, at four pounds a pair. +One of our between-deck passengers who had speculated with a small +capital of forty pounds in boots and cutlery, told me afterwards that +he had disposed of them the same evening he had landed, at a net profit +of ninety pounds—no trifling addition to a poor man's purse. Labour +was at a very high price, carpenters, boot and shoemakers, tailors, +wheelwrights, joiners, smiths, glaziers, and, in fact, all useful +trades, were earning from twenty to thirty shillings a day—the very +men working on the roads could get eleven shillings PER DIEM, and, many +a gentleman in this disarranged state of affairs, was glad to fling old +habits aside and turn his hand to whatever came readiest. I knew one in +particular, whose brother is at this moment serving as colonel in the +army in India, a man more fitted for a gay London life than a residence +in the colonies. The diggings were too dirty and uncivilized for his +taste, his capital was quickly dwindling away beneath the +expenses of the comfortable life he led at one of the best hotels in +town, so he turned to what as a boy he had learnt for amusement, and +obtained an addition to his income of more than four hundred pounds a +year as house carpenter. In the morning you might see him trudging off +to his work, and before night might meet him at some ball or soiree +among the elite of Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +I shall not attempt an elaborate description of the town of Melbourne, +or its neighbouring villages. A subject so often and well discussed +might almost be omitted altogether. The town is very well laid out; the +streets (which are all straight, running parallel with and across one +another) are very wide, but are incomplete, not lighted, and many are +unpaved. Owing to the want of lamps, few, except when full moon, dare +stir out after dark. Some of the shops are very fair; but the goods all +partake too largely of the flash order, for the purpose of suiting the +tastes of successful diggers, their wives and families; it is ludicrous +to see them in the shops—men who, before the gold-mines were +discovered, toiled hard for their daily bread, taking off half-a-dozen +thick gold rings from their fingers, and trying to pull on to +their rough, well-hardened hands the best white kids, to be worn at +some wedding party; whilst the wife, proud of the novel ornament, +descants on the folly of hiding them beneath such useless articles as +gloves. +</P> + +<P> +The two principal streets are Collins Street and Elizabeth Street. The +former runs east and west, the latter crossing it in the centre. +Melbourne is built on two hills, and the view from the top of Collins +Street East, is very striking on a fine day when well filled with +passengers and vehicles. Down the eye passes till it reaches Elizabeth +Street at the foot; then up again, and the moving mass seems like so +many tiny black specks in the distance, and the country beyond looks +but a little piece of green. A great deal of confusion arises from the +want of their names being painted on the corners of the streets: to a +stranger, this is particularly inconvenient, the more so, as being +straight, they appear all alike on first acquaintance. The confusion is +also increased by the same title, with slight variation, being applied +to so many, as, for instance, Collins Street East; Collins Street West; +Little Collins Street East; Little Collins Street West, &c. &c. +Churches and chapels for all sects and denominations meet the eye; but +the Established Church has, of all, the worst provision for its +members, only two small churches being as yet completed; and Sunday +after Sunday do numbers return from St. Peter's, unable to obtain even +standing room beneath the porch. For the gay, there are two circuses +and one theatre, where the "ladies" who frequent it smoke short +tobacco-pipes in the boxes and dress-circle. +</P> + +<P> +The country round is very pretty, particularly Richmond and +Collingwood; the latter will, I expect, soon become part of Melbourne +itself. It is situated at the fashionable—that is, EAST—end of +Melbourne, and the buildings of the city and this suburban village are +making rapid strides towards each other. Of Richmond, I may remark that +it does possess a "Star and Garter," though a very different affair to +its namesake at the antipodes, being only a small public-house. On the +shores of the bay, at nice driving distances, are Brighton and St. +Kilda. Two or three fall-to-pieces bathing-machines are at present the +only stock in trade of these watering-places; still, should some +would-be fashionables among my readers desire to emigrate, it may +gratify them to learn that they need not forego the pleasure of +visiting Brighton in the season. +</P> + +<P> +When I first arrived, as the weather was still very cold and wet, my +greatest source of discomfort arose from the want of coal-fires, and +the draughts, which are innumerable, owing to the slight manner in +which the houses are run up; in some the front entrance opens direct +into the sitting-rooms, very unpleasant, and entirely precluding the +"not at home" to an unwelcome visitor. Wood fires have at best but a +cheerless look, and I often longed for the bright blaze and merry +fireside of an English home. Firewood is sold at the rate of fifty +shillings for a good-sized barrow-full. +</P> + +<P> +The colonists (I here speak of the old-established ones) are naturally +very hospitable, and disposed to receive strangers with great kindness; +but the present ferment has made them forget everything in the glitter +of their own mines, and all comfort is laid aside; money is the idol, +and making it is the one mania which absorbs every other thought. +</P> + +<P> +The walking inhabitants are of themselves a study: glance into +the streets—all nations, classes, and costumes are represented there. +Chinamen, with pigtails and loose trowsers; Aborigines, with a solitary +blanket flung over them; Vandemonian pickpockets, with cunning eyes and +light fingers—all, in truth, from the successful digger in his blue +serge shirt, and with green veil still hanging round his wide-awake, to +the fashionably-attired, newly-arrived "gent" from London, who stares +around him in amazement and disgust. You may see, and hear too, some +thoroughly colonial scenes in the streets. Once, in the middle of the +day, when passing up Elizabeth Street, I heard the unmistakeable sound +of a mob behind, and as it was gaining upon me, I turned into the +enclosed ground in front of the Roman Catholic cathedral, to keep out +of the way of the crowd. A man had been taken up for horse-stealing and +a rare ruffianly set of both sexes were following the prisoner and the +two policemen who had him in charge. "If but six of ye were of my +mind," shouted one, "it's this moment you'd release him." The crowd +took the hint, and to it they set with right good will, yelling, +swearing, and pushing, with awful violence. The owner of the +stolen horse got up a counter demonstration, and every few yards, the +procession was delayed by a trial of strength between the two parties. +Ultimately the police conquered; but this is not always the case, and +often lives are lost and limbs broken in the struggle, so weak is the +force maintained by the colonial government for the preservation of +order. +</P> + +<P> +Another day, when passing the Post-office, a regular tropical shower of +rain came on rather suddenly, and I hastened up to the platform for +shelter. As I stood there, looking out into Great Bourke Street, a man +and, I suppose, his wife passed by. He had a letter in his hand for the +post; but as the pathway to the receiving-box looked very muddy, he +made his companion take it to the box, whilst he himself, from beneath +his umbrella, complacently watched her getting wet through. "Colonial +politeness," thought I, as the happy couple walked on. +</P> + +<P> +Sometimes a jovial wedding-party comes dashing through the streets; +there they go, the bridegroom with one arm round his lady's waist, the +other raising a champagne-bottle to his lips; the gay vehicles +that follow contain company even more unrestrained, and from them +noisier demonstrations of merriment may be heard. These diggers' +weddings are all the rage, and bridal veils, white kid gloves, and, +above all, orange blossoms are generally most difficult to procure at +any price. +</P> + +<P> +At times, you may see men, half-mad, throwing sovereigns, like +halfpence, out of their pockets into the streets; and I once saw a +digger, who was looking over a large quantity of bank-notes, +deliberately tear to pieces and trample in the mud under his feet every +soiled or ragged one he came to, swearing all the time at the +gold-brokers for "giving him dirty paper money for pure Alexander gold; +he wouldn't carry dirt in his pocket; not he; thank God! he'd plenty to +tear up and spend too." +</P> + +<P> +Melbourne is very full of Jews; on a Saturday, some of the streets are +half closed. There are only two pawnbrokers in the town. +</P> + +<P> +The most thriving trade there, is keeping an hotel or public-house, +which always have a lamp before their doors. These at night serve as a +beacon to the stranger to keep as far from them as possible, +they being, with few exceptions, the resort, after dark, of the most +ruffianly characters. +</P> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<P> +On the 2nd of September, the long-expected mail steamer arrived, and +two days after we procured our letters from the Post-office. I may here +remark, that the want of proper management in this department is the +greatest cause of inconvenience to fresh arrivals, and to the +inhabitants of Melbourne generally. There is but ONE SMALL WINDOW, +whence letters directed to lie at the office are given out; and as the +ships from England daily discharged their living cargoes into +Melbourne, the crowd round this inefficient delivering-place rendered +getting one's letters the work, not of hours, but days. Newspapers, +particularly pictorial ones, have, it would appear, a remarkable +facility for being lost EN ROUTE. Several numbers of the "Illustrated +London News" had been sent me, and, although the letters posted with +them arrived in safety, the papers themselves never made their +appearance. I did hear that, when addressed to an uncolonial name, and +with no grander direction than the Post-office itself, the +clerks are apt to apropriate them—this is, perhaps, only a wee bit of +Melbourne scandal. +</P> + +<P> +The arrival of our letters from England left nothing now to detain us, +and made us all anxious to commence our trip to the diggings, although +the roads were in an awful condition. Still we would delay no longer, +and the bustle of preparation began. Stores of flour, tea, and sugar, +tents and canvas, camp-ovens, cooking utensils, tin plates and +pannikins, opossum rugs and blankets, drays, carts and horses, cradles, +&c. &c., had to be looked at, bought and paid for. +</P> + +<P> +On board ship, my brother had joined himself to a party of four young +men, who had decided to give the diggings a trial. Four other of our +shipmates had also joined themselves into a digging-party, and when +they heard of our intended departure, proposed travelling up together +and separating on our arrival. This was settled, and a proposal made +that between the two sets they should raise funds to purchase a dray +and horses, and make a speculation in flour, tea, &c., on which an +immense profit was being made at the diggings. It would also +afford the convenience of taking up tents, cradles, and other articles +impossible to carry up without. The dray cost one hundred pounds, and +the two strong cart-horses ninety and one hundred pounds respectively. +This, with the goods themselves, and a few sundries in the shape of +harness and cords, made only a venture of about fifty pounds a-piece. +While these arrangements were rapidly progressing, a few other parties +wished to join ours for safety on the road, which was agreed to, and +the day fixed upon for the departure was the 7th of September. Every +one, except myself, was to walk, and we furthermore determined to "camp +out" as much as possible, and thus avoid the vicinity of the inns and +halting-places on the way, which are frequently the lurking-places of +thieves and bushrangers. +</P> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<P> +On the Sunday previous to the day on which our journey was to commence, +I had a little adventure, which pleased me at the time, though, but for +the sequel, not worth mentioning here. I had walked with my brother and +a friend to St. Peter's Church; but we were a few minutes behind +time, and therefore could find no unoccupied seat. Thus disappointed, +we strolled over Princes Bridge on to the other side of the Yarra. +Between the bridge and the beach, on the south side of the river, is a +little city of tents, called Little Adelaide. They were inhabited by a +number of families, that the rumour of the Victoria gold-mines had +induced to leave South Australia, and whose finances were unequal to +the high prices in Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +Government levies a tax of five shillings a week on each tent, built +upon land as wild and barren as the bleakest common in England. We did +not wander this morning towards Little Adelaide; but followed the Yarra +in its winding course inland, in the direction of the Botanical +Gardens. +</P> + +<P> +Upon a gentle rise beside the river, not far enough away from Melbourne +to be inconvenient, but yet sufficiently removed from its mud and +noise, were pitched two tents, evidently new, with crimson paint still +gay upon the round nobs of the centre posts, and looking altogether +more in trim for a gala day in Merry England than a trip to the +diggings. The sun was high above our heads, and the day +intensely hot; so much so, that I could not resist the temptation of +tapping at the canvas door to ask for a draught of water. A gentleman +obeyed the summons, and on learning the occasion of this unceremonious +visit, politely accommodated me with a camp-stool and some delicious +fresh milk—in Melbourne almost a luxury. Whilst I was imbibing this +with no little relish, my friends were entering into conversation with +our new acquaintance. The tents belonged to a party just arrived by the +steamer from England, with everything complete for the diggings, to +which they meant to proceed in another week, and where I had the +pleasure of meeting them again, though under different and very +peculiar circumstances. The tent which I had invaded was inhabited by +two, the elder of whom, a powerfully-built man of thirty, formed a +strong contrast to his companion, a delicate-looking youth, whose +apparent age could not have exceeded sixteen years. +</P> + +<P> +After a short rest, we returned to Melbourne, well pleased with our +little adventure. +</P> + +<P> +The next day was hardly long enough for our numerous preparations, and +it was late before we retired to rest. Six was the hour +appointed for the next morning's breakfast. Excited with anticipating +the adventures to commence on the morrow, no wonder that my dreams +should all be GOLDEN ones. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap04"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter IV. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CAMPING UP—MELBOURNE TO THE BLACK FOREST +</H3> + +<P> +The anxiously-expected morning at length commenced, and a +dismal-looking morning it was—hazy and damp, with a small drizzling +rain, which, from the gloomy aspect above, seemed likely to last. It +was not, however, sufficient to damp our spirits, and the appointed +hour found us all assembled to attack the last meal that we anticipated +to make for some time to come beneath the shelter of a ceiling. At +eight o'clock our united party was to start from the "Duke of York" +hotel, and as that hour drew nigh, the unmistakeable signs of +"something up," attracted a few idlers to witness our departure. In +truth, we were a goodly party, and created no little sensation among +the loungers—but I must regularly introduce our troop to my readers. +</P> + +<P> +First then, I must mention two large drays, each drawn by a pair of +stout horses—one the property of two Germans, who were bound for +Forest Creek, the other belonged to ourselves and shipmates. There were +three pack-horses—one (laden with a speculation in bran) belonged to +a queer-looking sailor, who went by the name of Joe, the other two were +under the care of a man named Gregory, who was going to rejoin his +mates at Eagle Hawk Gully. As his destination was the farthest, and he +was well acquainted with the roads, he ought to have been elected +leader, but from some mis-management that dignity was conferred upon a +stout old gentleman, who had taken a pleasure-trip to Mount Alexander, +the previous summer. +</P> + +<P> +Starting is almost always a tedious affair, nor was this particular +case an exception. First one had forgotten something—another broke a +strap, and a new one had to be procured—then the dray was not +properly packed, and must be righted—some one else wanted an +extra "nobbler"—then a fresh, and still a fresh delay, so that +although eight was the appointed hour, it was noon ere we bade farewell +to mine host of the "Duke of York." +</P> + +<P> +At length the word of command was spoken. Foremost came the gallant +captain (as we had dubbed him), and with him two ship doctors, in +partnership together, who carried the signs of their profession along +with them in the shape of a most surgeon-like mahogany box. Then came +the two Germans, complacently smoking their meerschaums, and attending +to their dray and horses, which latter, unlike their masters, were of a +very restless turn of mind. After these came a party of six, among whom +was Gregory and two lively Frenchmen, who kept up an incessant +chattering. Joe walked by himself, leading his pack-horse, then came +our four shipmates, two by two, and last, our own particular five. +</P> + +<P> +Most carried on their backs their individual property—blankets, +provisions for the road, &c., rolled in a skin, and fastened over the +shoulders by leathern straps. This bundle goes by the name of "swag," +and is the digger's usual accompaniment—it being too great a +luxury to place upon a dray or pack-horse anything not absolutely +necessary. This will be easily understood when it is known that +carriers, during the winter, obtained 120 pounds and sometimes 150 pounds +a ton for conveying goods to Bendigo (about one hundred miles from +Melbourne). Nor was the sum exorbitant, as besides the chance of a few +weeks' stick in the mud, they run great risk of injuring their horses or +bullocks; many a valuable beast has been obliged to be shot where it +stood, it being found impossible to extricate it from the mud and swamp. +At the time we started, the sum generally demanded was about 70 pounds per +ton. On the price of carriage up, depended of course the price of +provisions at the diggings. +</P> + +<P> +The weight of one of these "swags" is far from light; the provender for +the road is itself by no means trifling, though that of course +diminishes by the way, and lightens the load a little. Still there are +the blankets, fire-arms, drinking and eating apparatus, clothing, +chamois-leather for the gold that has yet to be dug, and numberless +other cumbersome articles necessary for the digger. In every +belt was stuck either a large knife or a tomahawk; two shouldered their +guns (by the bye, rather imprudent, as the sight of fire-arms often +brings down an attack); some had thick sticks, fit to fell a bullock; +altogether, we seemed well prepared to encounter an entire army of +bushrangers. I felt tolerably comfortable perched upon our dray, amid a +mass of other soft lumber; a bag of flour formed an easy support to +lean against; on either side I was well walled in by the canvas and +poles of our tent; a large cheese made a convenient footstool. My +attire, although well suited for the business on hand, would hardly +have passed muster in any other situation. A dress of common dark blue +serge, a felt wide-awake, and a waterproof coat wrapped round me, made +a ludicrous assortment. +</P> + +<P> +Going along at a foot-pace we descended Great Bourke Street, and made +our first halt opposite the Post-office, where one of our party made a +last effort to obtain a letter from his lady-love, which was, alas! +unsuccessful. But we move on again—pass the Horse Bazaar—turn into +Queen Street—up we go towards Flemington, leaving the Melbourne +cemetery on our right, and the flag-staff a little to the left; and +now our journey may be considered fairly begun. +</P> + +<P> +Just out of Melbourne, passing to the east of the Benevolent Asylum, we +went over a little rise called Mount Pleasant, which, on a damp sort of +a day, with the rain beating around one, seemed certainly a misnomer. +After about two miles, we came to a branch-road leading to Pentridge, +where the Government convict establishment is situated. This we left on +our right, and through a line of country thickly wooded (consisting of +red and white gum, stringy bark, cherry and other trees), we arrived at +Flemington, which is about three miles and a half from town. +</P> + +<P> +Flemington is a neat little village or town-ship, consisting of about +forty houses, a blacksmith's shop, several stores, and a good inn, +built of brick and stone, with very fair accommodation for travellers, +and a large stable and stock-yards. +</P> + +<P> +After leaving Flemington, we passed several nice-looking homesteads; +some are on a very large scale, and belong to gentlemen connected +with Melbourne, who prefer "living out of town." On reaching the +top of the hill beyond Flemington there is a fine view of Melbourne, +the bay, William's Town, and the surrounding country, but the miserable +weather prevented us at this time from properly enjoying it. Sunshine +was all we needed to have made this portion of our travels truly +delightful. +</P> + +<P> +The road was nicely level, fine trees sheltered it on either side, +whilst ever and anon some rustic farm-house was passed, or coffee-shop, +temporarily erected of canvas or blankets, offered refreshment (such as +it was), and the latest news of the diggings to those who had no +objection to pay well for what they had. This Flemington road (which is +considered the most Pleasant in Victoria, or at least anywhere near +Melbourne) is very good as far as Tulip Wright's, which we now +approached. +</P> + +<P> +Wright's public-house is kept by the man whose name it bears; it is a +rambling ill-built, but withal pleasing-looking edifice, built chiefly +of weather-board and shingle, with a verandah all round. The whole is +painted white, and whilst at some distance from it a passing ray +of sunshine gave it a most peculiar effect. In front of the principal +entrance is a thundering large lamp, a most conspicuous looking object. +Wright himself was formerly in the police, and being a sharp fellow, +obtained the cognomen of "Tulip," by which both he and his house have +always been known; and so inseparable have the names become, that, +whilst "Tulip Wright's" is renowned well-nigh all over the colonies, +the simple name of the owner would create some inquiries. The state of +accommodation here may be gathered from the success of some of the +party who had a PENCHANT for "nobblers" of brandy. "Nothing but bottled +beer in the house." "What could we have for dinner?" inquired one, +rather amused at this Hobson's choice state of affairs. "The eatables +was only cold meat; and they couldn't cook nothink fresh," was the curt +reply. "Can we sleep here?" "Yes—under your drays." As we literally +determined to "camp out" on the journey, we passed on, without +partaking of their "cold eatables," or availing ourselves of their +permission to sleep under our own drays, and, leaving the road +to Sydney on our right, and the one to Keilor straight before us, we +turned short off to the left towards the Deep Creek. +</P> + +<P> +Of the two rejected routes I will give a very brief account. +</P> + +<P> +The right-hand road leads to Sydney, VIA Kilmore, and many going to the +diggings prefer using this road as far as that township. The country +about here is very flat, stony and destitute of timber; occasionally +the journey is varied by a water-hole or surface-spring. After several +miles, a public-house called the "Lady of the Lake" is reached, which +is reckoned by many the best country inn on this or any other road in +the colonies. The accommodation is excellent, and the rooms well +arranged, and independent of the house. There are ten or twelve rooms +which, on a push, could accommodate fifty or sixty people; six are +arranged in pairs for the convenience of married persons, and the +fashionable trip during the honey-moon (particularly for diggers' +weddings) is to the "Lady of the Lake." Whether Sir Walter's poem be +the origin of the sign, or whether the swamps in the rear, I cannot +say, but decidedly there is no lake and no lady, though I have +heard of a buxom lass, the landlord's daughter, who acts as barmaid, +and is a great favourite. This spot was the scene last May of a +horrible murder, which has added no little to the notoriety of the +neighbourhood. +</P> + +<P> +After several miles you at length arrive at Kilmore, which is a large +and thriving township, containing two places of worship, several stores +and inns. There is a resident magistrate with his staff of officials, +and a station for a detachment of mounted police. Kilmore is on the +main overland road from Melbourne to Sydney, and, although not on the +confines of the two colonies, is rather an important place, from being +the last main township until you reach the interior of New South Wales. +The Government buildings are commodious and well arranged. There are +several farms and stations in the neighbourhood, but the country round +is flat and swampy. +</P> + +<P> +The middle road leads you direct to Keilor, and you must cross the Deep +Creek in a dangerous part, as the banks thereabouts are very steep, the +stream (though narrow) very rapid, and the bottom stony. In 1851, the +bridge (an ordinary log one) was washed down by the floods, and +for two months all communication was cut off. Government have now put a +punt, which is worked backwards and forwards every half-hour from six +in the morning till six at night, at certain fares, which are doubled +after these hours. These fares are: for a passenger, 6d.; a horse or +bullock, 1s.; a two-wheeled vehicle, 1s. 6d.; a loaded dray, 2s. The +punt is tolerably well managed, except when the man gets intoxicated—not +an unfrequent occurrence. When there was neither bridge nor punt, +those who wished to cross were obliged to ford it; and so strong has +been the current, that horses have been carried down one or two hundred +yards before they could effect a landing. Keilor is a pretty little +village with a good inn, several nice cottages, and a store or two. The +country round is hilly and barren—scarcely any herbage and that +little is rank and coarse; the timber is very scarce. This road to the +diggings is not much used. +</P> + +<P> +But to return to ourselves. The rain and bad roads made travelling so +very wearisome, that before we had proceeded far it was unanimously +agreed that we should halt and pitch our first encampment. +"Pitch our first encampment! how charming!" exclaims some romantic +reader, as though it were an easily accomplished undertaking. Fixing a +gipsy-tent at a FETE CHAMPETRE, with a smiling sky above, and all +requisites ready to hand, is one thing, and attempting to sink poles +and erect tents out of blankets and rugs in a high wind and pelting +rain, is (if I may be allowed the colonialism) "a horse of quite +another colour." Some sort of sheltering-places were at length +completed; the horses were taken from the dray and tethered to some +trees within sight, and then we made preparations for satisfying the +unromantic cravings of hunger—symptoms of which we all, more or less, +began to feel. With some difficulty a fire was kindled and kept alight +in the hollow trunk of an old gum tree. A damper was speedily made, +which, with a plentiful supply of steaks and boiled and roasted eggs, +was a supper by no means to be despised. The eggs had been procured at +four shillings a dozen from a farm-house we had passed. +</P> + +<P> +It was certainly the most curious tea-table at which I had ever +assisted. Chairs, of course, there were none, we sat or lounged +upon the ground as best suited our tired limbs; tin pannicans (holding +about a pint) served as tea-cups, and plates of the same metal in lieu +of china; a teapot was dispensed with; but a portly substitute was +there in the shape of an immense iron kettle, just taken from the fire +and placed in the centre of our grand tea-service, which being new, a +lively imagination might mistake for silver. Hot spirits, for those +desirous of imbibing them, followed our substantial repast; but fatigue +and the dreary weather had so completely damped all disposition to +conviviality, that a very short space of time found all fast asleep +except the three unfortunates on the watch, which was relieved every +two hours. +</P> + +<P> +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 8.—I awoke rather early this morning, not +feeling over-comfortable from having slept in my clothes all night, +which it is necessary to do on the journey, so as never to be +unprepared for any emergency. A small corner of my brother's tent had +been partitioned off for my BED-ROOM; it was quite dark, so my first +act on waking was to push aside one of the blankets, still wet, +which had been my roof during the night, and thus admit air and light +into my apartments. Having made my toilette—after a fashion—I +joined my companions on the watch, who were deep in the mysteries of +preparing something eatable for breakfast. I discovered that their +efforts were concentrated on the formation of a damper, which seemed to +give them no little difficulty. A damper is the legitimate, and, in +fact, only bread of the bush, and should be made solely of flour and +water, well mixed and kneaded into a cake, as large as you like, but +not more than two inches in thickness, and then placed among the hot +ashes to bake. If well-made, it is very sweet and a good substitute for +bread. The rain had, however, spoiled our ashes, the dough would +neither rise nor brown, so in despair we mixed a fresh batch of flour +and water, and having fried some rashers of fat bacon till they were +nearly melted, we poured the batter into the pan and let it fry till +done. This impromptu dish gave general satisfaction and was pronounced +a cross between a pancake and a heavy suet pudding. +</P> + +<P> +Breakfast over, our temporary residences were pulled down, the +drays loaded, and our journey recommenced. +</P> + +<P> +We soon reached the Deep Creek, and crossed by means of a punt, the +charges being the same as the one at Keilor. Near here is a station +belonging to Mr. Ryleigh, which is a happy specimen of a squatter's +home—everything being managed in a superior manner. The house itself +is erected on a rise and surrounded by an extensive garden, vinery and +orchard, all well stocked and kept; some beautifully enclosed paddocks +reach to the Creek, and give an English park-like appearance to the +whole. The view from here over the bay and Brighton is splendid; you +can almost distinguish Geelong. About a quarter of a mile off is a +little hamlet with a neat Swiss-looking church, built over a +school-room on a rise of ground; it has a most peculiar effect, and is +the more singular as the economizing the ground could not be a +consideration in the colony; on the left of the church is a pretty +little parsonage, whitewashed, with slate roof and green-painted +window-frames. +</P> + +<P> +I still fancy, though our redoubtable captain most strenuously +denied it, that we had in some manner gone out of our way; however that +may be, the roads seemed worse and worse as we proceeded, and our pace +became more tedious as here and there it was up-hill work till at +length we reached the Keilor plains. It was almost disheartening to +look upon that vast expanse of flat and dreary land except where the +eye lingered on the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which rose far +distant in front of us. On entering the plains we passed two or three +little farm-houses, coffee-shops, &c., and encountered several parties +coming home for a trip to Melbourne. For ten miles we travelled on +dismally enough, for it rained a great deal, and we were constantly +obliged to halt to get the horses rested a little. We now passed a +coffee-shop, which although only consisting of a canvas tent and little +wooden shed, has been known to accommodate above forty people of a +night. As there are always plenty of bad characters lounging in the +neighbourhood of such places, we kept at a respectful distance, and did +not make our final halt till full two miles farther on our road. Tents +were again pitched, but owing to their not being fastened over +securely, many of us got an unwished-for shower-bath during the +night; but this is nothing—at the antipodes one soon learns to laugh +at such trifles. +</P> + +<P> +THURSDAY, 9.—This morning we were up betimes, some of our party being +so sanguine as to anticipate making the "Bush Inn" before evening. As +we proceeded, this hope quickly faded away. The Keilor plains seemed +almost impassable, and what with pieces of rock here, and a water-hole +there, crossing them was more dangerous than agreeable. Now one passed +a broken-down dray; then one's ears were horrified at the oaths an +unhappy wight was venting at a mud-hole into which he had stumbled. A +comical object he looked, as, half-seas-over, he attempted to pull on a +mud-covered boot, which he had just extricated from the hole where it +and his leg had parted company. A piece of wood, which his imagination +transformed into a shoe-horn, was in his hand. "Put it into the +larboard side," (suiting the action to the word), "there it goes—damn +her, she won't come on! Put it into the starboard side there it +goes—well done, old girl," and he triumphantly rose from the ground, +and reeled away. +</P> + +<P> +With a hearty laugh, we proceeded on our road, and after passing +two or three coffee-tents, we arrived at Gregory's Inn. The landlord is +considered the best on the road, and is a practical example of what +honesty and industry may achieve. He commenced some nine months before +without a shilling—his tarpaulin tent and small stock of tea, sugar, +coffee, &c., being a loan. He has now a large weather-board house, +capable of making up one hundred beds, and even then unable to +accommodate all his visitors, so numerous are they, from the good name +he bears. Here we got a capital cold dinner of meat, bread, cheese, +coffee, tea, &c., for three shillings a-piece, and, somewhat refreshed, +went forwards in better spirits, though the accounts we heard there of +the bad roads in the Black Forest would have disheartened many. +</P> + +<P> +Mount Macedon now formed quite a beautiful object on our right: a +little below that mountain appeared a smaller one, called the Bald +Hill, from its peak being quite barren, and the soil of a white +limestone and quartzy nature, which gives it a most peculiar and +splendid appearance when the sun's rays are shining upon it. As +we advanced, the thickly-wooded sides of Mount Macedon became more +distinct, and our proximity to a part of the country which we knew to +be auriferous, exercised an unaccountable yet pleasureable influence +over our spirits, which was perhaps increased by the loveliness of the +spot where we now pitched our tents for the evening. It was at the foot +of the Gap. The stately gum-tree, the shea-oak, with its gracefully +drooping foliage, the perfumed yellow blossom of the mimosa, the +richly-wooded mountain in the background, united to form a picture too +magnificent to describe. The ground was carpeted with wild flowers; the +sarsaparilla blossoms creeping everywhere; before us slowly rippled a +clear streamlet, reflecting a thousand times the deepening tints which +the last rays of the setting sun flung over the surrounding scenery; +the air rang with the cawing of the numerous cockatoos and parrots of +all hues and colours who made the woods resound with their tones, +whilst their restless movements and gay plumage gave life and piquancy +to the scene. +</P> + +<P> +This night our beds were composed of the mimosa, which has a perfume +like the hawthorn. The softest-looking branches were selected, +cut down, and flung upon the ground beneath the tents, and formed a bed +which, to my wearied limbs, appeared the softest and most luxuriant +upon which I had slept since my arrival in the colonies. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY, 10.—With some reluctance I aroused myself from a very heavy +slumber produced by the over fatigue of the preceding day. I found +every one preparing to start; kindly considerate, my companions thought +a good sleep more refreshing for me than breakfast, and had deferred +awakening me till quite obliged, so taking a few sailors' biscuits in +my pocket to munch on the way, I bade farewell to a spot whose natural +beauties I have never seen surpassed. +</P> + +<P> +Proceeding onwards, we skirted the Bald Hill, and entering rather a +scrubby tract, crossed a creek more awkward for our drays than +dangerous to ourselves; we then passed two or three little +coffee-shops, which being tents are always shifting their quarters, +crossed another plain, very stony and in places swampy, which +terminated in a thickly-wooded tract of gum and wattle trees. Into this +wood we now entered. After about five miles uncomfortable +travelling we reached the "Bush Inn." +</P> + +<P> +I must here observe that no DISTINCT road is ever cut out, but the +whole country is cut up into innumerable tracks by the carts and drays, +and which are awfully bewildering to the new-comer as they run here and +there, now crossing a swamp, now a rocky place, here a creek, there a +hillock, and yet, in many cases, all leading BONA FIDE to the same +place. +</P> + +<P> +The "Bush Inn" (the genuine one, for there are two) consists of a +large, well-built, brick and weather-board house, with bed-rooms for +private families. There is a detached weather-board, and stone kitchen, +and tap-room, with sleeping-lofts above, a large yard with sheds and +good stabling. A portion of the house and stables is always engaged for +the use of the escort. About two hundred yards off is the "New Bush +Inn," somewhat similar to the other, not quite so large, with an +attempt at a garden. The charges at these houses are enormous. Five and +six shillings per meal, seven-and-sixpence for a bottle of ale, and one +shilling for half a glass or "nobbler" of brandy. About half a +mile distant is a large station belonging to Mr. Watson; the houses, +huts and yards are very prettily laid out, and, in a few years he will +have the finest vineyard in the neighbourhood. Two miles to the east is +the residence of Mr. Poullett, Commissioner of Crown Lands, which is +very pleasantly situated on the banks of an ever-running stream. The +paddock, which is a large one (10 square miles, or 6400 acres), is well +wooded. Some new police barracks and stabling yards are in the course +of erection. +</P> + +<P> +We did not linger in the "Bush Inn," but pursued our way over a marshy +flat, crossed a dangerous creek, and having ascended a steep and +thickly wooded hill on the skirts of the Black Forest, we halted and +pitched our tents. It was little more than mid-day, but the road had +been fearful—as bad as wading through a mire; men and beasts were +worn out, and it was thought advisable to recruit well before entering +the dreaded precincts of the Black Forest. Fires were lit, supper was +cooked, spirits and pipes made their appearance, songs were sung, and a +few of the awful exploits of Black Douglas and his followers were +related. Later in the evening, an opossum was shot by one of us. +Its skin was very soft, with rich, brown hair. +</P> + +<P> +SATURDAY, 11—A dismal wet day—we remained stationary, as many of +our party were still foot-sore, and all were glad of a rest. Some went +out shooting, but returned with only a few parrots and cockatoos, which +they roasted, and pronounced nice eating. Towards evening, a party of +four, returning from the diggings, encamped at a little distance from +us. Some of our loiterers made their acquaintance. They had passed the +previous night in the Black Forest, having wandered out of their way. +To add to their misfortunes, they had been attacked by three well-armed +bushrangers, whom they had compelled to desist from their attempt, not, +however, before two of the poor men had been wounded, one rather +severely. Hardly had they recovered this shock, than they were +horrified by the sudden discovery in a sequestered spot of some human +bones, strewn upon the ground beside a broken-down cart. Whether +accident or design had brought these unfortunates to an untimely end, +none know; but this ominous appearance seemed to have terrified +them even more than the bushrangers themselves. These accounts sobered +our party not a little, and it was deemed advisable to double the watch +that night. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap05"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter V. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CAMPING UP—BLACK FOREST TO EAGLE HAWK GULLY +</H3> + +<P> +SUNDAY, 12.—A lovely summer morning, which raised our spirits to +something like their usual tone, with the exception of our gallant(?) +captain, who resigned his post, declaring it his intention to return to +Melbourne with the four returning diggers. Poor fellow! their awful +account of the Black Forest had been too much for his courage. Gregory +was elected in his place, and wishing him a pleasant trip home, our +journey was resumed as usual, and we entered the forest. Here the trees +grow very closely together; in some places they are so thickly +set that the rear-guard of the escort cannot see the advance-guard in +the march. There is a slight undergrowth of scrub. We saw some of the +choicest of the ERICA tribe in full bloom, like a beautiful crimson +waxen bell-blossom, and once whilst walking (which I frequently did to +relieve the monotony of being perched on the dray by myself) I saw a +fine specimen of the ORELUDIAE at the foot of a tree growing from the +wood; it was something like a yellow sweet-pea, but really too +beautiful to describe. The barks of the trees, and also the ground, +have a black, charred appearance (hence the name of the forest); this +is said to have been caused by its having once been on fire. Many of +the ambuscades of the noted Douglas were passed, and the scenes of some +most fearful murders pointed out. We only halted once—so anxious were +we to leave behind us this dreaded spot—and at sunset reached the +borders of the Five Mile Creek. +</P> + +<P> +MONDAY, 13.—Another fine day. Crossed the Five Mile Creek by means of +a rickety sort of bridge. There are two inns here, with plenty of +accommodation for man and beast. We patronized neither, but made the +best of our way towards Kyneton. Our road lay through a densely +wooded country till we arrived at Jacomb's Station; this we left, and +turning to the right, soon reached Kyneton, which lies on the river +Campaspe. +</P> + +<P> +Carlshrue lies to the right, about three miles distant, on rather low +land; this is the chief station of the Government escort; the barrack +accommodation is first-rate, with stabling and paddocks for the horses, +&c. +</P> + +<P> +Kyneton is about sixty-one miles from Melbourne. There are two large +inns, with ample accommodation for four hundred people between them, +several stores, with almost every needful article. A neat little +church, capable of holding nearly three hundred persons, with a school +and parsonage. There is a resident magistrate and constabulary, with a +police-court and gaol in progress of erection. The township is rather +straggling, but what houses there are have a very picturesque +appearance. The only draw-back to this little town is the badness of +the streets. Although it is rather on an elevated spot, the streets and +roads, from the loamy nature of the sod, are a perfect quagmire, even +abominable in summer time. The charges here are high, but not +extortionate, as, besides the two inns alluded to, there are several +coffee-shops and lodging-houses; so competition has its effect even in +the bush. +</P> + +<P> +The Campaspe is a large river, and is crossed by a substantial timber +bridge. +</P> + +<P> +We still adhered to our original plan of camping out; a few necessaries +were purchased in the town, and after continuing our journey to a +little distance from it, we halted for the night. +</P> + +<P> +TUESDAY 14.—This morning commenced with a colonial shower, which gave +us all a good drenching. Started about eight o'clock; returned to +Kyneton; crossed the bridge, and passed several farm-houses. The +country here is very changeable, sometimes flat and boggy, at others, +very hilly and stony. We were obliged to ford several small creeks, +evidently tributaries to the Campaspe, and at about ten miles from +Kyneton, entered the Coliban range, which is thickly wooded. The river +itself is about fourteen miles from Kyneton. Here we camped, in the +pouring rain. Some of our party walked to the town of Malmsbury, about +a mile and a half from our camping place. The town consisted of +about three tents, and an inn dignified by the appellation of the +"Malmsbury Hotel". It is a two-storied, weather-board, and pale house, +painted blue, with a lamp before it of many colours, large enough for +half-a-dozen people to dine in. It (the inn, not the lamp,) is capable +of accommodating two hundred people, independent of which there is a +large tent, similar to the booths at a fair, about 100 feet long by 30 +wide, for the convenience of those who prefer sleeping under cover when +the house is full. Being hungry with their walk, our comrades dined +here, for which they paid 3s. 6d. a-piece; ale was 1s. 6d. a glass; +brandy 2s. per half glass, or "nobbler;" cheese, 4s. 6d. a pound; +bread, 5s. the four-pound loaf; wine, 25s. a bottle. By the time they +returned, we had struck our tents, intending to cross a muddy-banked +creek that lay in our road that evening, as we were told that the +waters might be too swollen to do it next day. The water reached above +their waists, and as my usual post was very insecure, I was obliged to +be carried over on their shoulders, which did not prevent my feet from +being thoroughly soaked before reaching the other side, where we +remained all night. +</P> + +<P> +WEDNESDAY, 15.—Rainy day again, so much so, that we thought it +advisable not to shift our quarters. In the afternoon, three returning +diggers pitched their tents not far from ours. They were rather +sociable, and gave us a good account of the diggings. They had +themselves been very fortunate. On the same day that we had been idly +resting on the borders of the Black Forest, they had succeeded in +taking twenty-three pounds weight out of their claim, and two days +after, two hundred and six ounces more, making, in all, gold to the +value (in England) of about eighteen hundred pounds. They were +returning to Melbourne for a spree, (which means to fling their gains +away as quickly as possible,) and then as soon as the dry season was +regularly set in, they meant to return to Bendigo for another spell at +work. On representing to them the folly of not making better use of +their hard-earned wages, the answer invariably was, "Plenty more to be +got where this came from," an apt illustration of the proverb, "light +come, light go." Two of these diggers had with them their licences for +the current month, which they offered to sell for ten shillings each; +two of our company purchased them. This, although a common +proceeding, was quite illegal, and, of course, the two purchasers had +to assume for the rest of the month the names of the parties to whom +the licences had been issued. As evening approached, our new +acquaintances became very sociable, and amused us with their account of +the diggings; and the subject of licensing being naturally discussed, +led to our being initiated into the various means of evading it, and +the penalties incurred thereby. One story they related amused us at the +time, and as it is true I will repeat it here, though I fancy the lack +of oral communication will subtract from it what little interest it did +possess. +</P> + +<P> +Before I commence, I must give my readers some little insight into the +nature of the licence tax itself. The licence, (for which thirty +shillings, or half an ounce of gold, is paid per month) is in the +following form: +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +VICTORIA GOLD LICENCE. +No. 1710, Sept. 3, 1852. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Bearer, Henry Clements, having paid to me the Sum of One Pound, Ten +Shillings, on account of the Territorial Revenue, I hereby +Licence him to dig, search for, and remove Gold on and from any such +Crown Land within the Upper Lodden District, as I shall assign to him +for that purpose during the month of September, 1852, not within +half-a-mile of any Head station. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +This Licence is not transferable, and to be produced whenever demanded +by me or any other person acting under the Authority of the Government, +and to be returned when another Licence is issued. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +(SIGNED) B. BAXTER, Commissioner. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +At the back of the Licence are the following rules: +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +REGULATIONS TO BE OBSERVED BY THE PERSONS DIGGING FOR GOLD, OR +OTHERWISE EMPLOYED AT THE GOLD FIELDS. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +1. Every Licensed Person must always have his Licence with him, ready +to be produced whenever demanded by a Commissioner, or Person acting +under his instructions, otherwise he is liable to be proceeded against +as an Unlicensed person. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +2. Every Person digging for Gold, or occupying Land, without a +Licence, is liable by Law to be fined, for the first offence, not +exceeding 5 pounds; for a second offence, not exceeding 15 pounds; and for +a subsequent offence, not exceeding 30 pounds. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +3. Digging for Gold is not allowed within Ten feet of any Public Road, +nor are the Roads to be undermined. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +4. Tents or buildings are not to be erected within Twenty feet of each +other, or within Twenty feet of any Creek. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +5. It is enjoined that all Persons at the Gold Fields maintain and +assist in maintaining a due and proper observance of Sundays. +</P> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<P> +So great is the crowd around the Commissioner's tent at the beginning +of the month, that it is a matter of difficulty to procure it, and +consequently the inspectors rarely begin their rounds before the 10th, +when (as they generally vary the fine according to the date at which +the delinquency is discovered), a non-licensed digger would have the +pleasure of accompanying a crowd of similar offenders to the +Commissioners, sometimes four or five miles from his working-place, pay +a fine of about 3 pounds, and take out a licence. After the 20th of the +month, the fine inflicted is generally from 5 pounds to 10 pounds and a +licence, which is rather a dear price to pay for a few days' permission to +dig, as a licence, although granted on the 30th of one month, would be +unavailable for the next. The inspectors are generally strong-built, +rough-looking customers, they dress like the generality of the diggers, +and are only known by their carrying a gun in lieu of a pick or shovel. +Delinquents unable to pay the fine, have the pleasure of working it out +on the roads. +</P> + +<P> +Now for my story—such as it is. +</P> + +<P> +Mike and Robert were two as good mates as any at the Mount Alexander +diggings. They had had a good spell of hard work, and, as is usually +the way, returned to Melbourne for a holiday at Christmas-time; and +then it was that the bright eyes of Susan Hinton first sowed discord +between them. Mike was the successful wooer, and the old man gave his +consent; for Mike, with one exception, had contrived to make himself a +favourite with both father and daughter. The exception was this. Old +Hinton was a strict disciplinarian—one of what is called the +"good old school"—he hated radicals, revolutionists, and reformers, +or any opposition to Church or State. Mike, on the contrary, loved +nothing better than to hold forth against the powers that be; and it +was his greatest boast that Government had never pocketed a farthing +from him in the way of a licence. This, in the old man's eyes, was his +solitary fault, and when Mike declared his intention of taking another +trip to the "lottery fields" before taking a ticket in the even greater +lottery of marriage, he solemnly declared that no daughter of his +should ever marry a man who had been openly convicted of in any way +evading the licence fee. +</P> + +<P> +This declaration from any other man, who had already promised his +daughter in marriage, would not have had much weight; but Mike knew the +stern, strict character of Hinton, and respected this determination +accordingly. The day of their departure arrived, and with a tearful +injunction to bear in mind her father's wishes, Susan bade her lover +farewell, and Robert and he proceeded on their journey. Full of his own +happiness, Mike had never suspected his comrade's love for +Susan, and little dreamt he of the hatred against himself to which it +had given birth—hatred the more to be dreaded since it was concealed +under a most friendly exterior. +</P> + +<P> +For the first month Mike behaved to the very letter of the law, and +having for the sum of one pound ten shillings purchased his legal right to +dig for gold, felt himself a most exemplary character. Success again +crowned their efforts, and a speedy return to Melbourne was contemplated. +In the ardour of this exciting work another month commenced, and Mike at +first forgot and then neglected to renew his licence. "The inspector +rarely came his rounds before the 14th; the neighbourhood was +considered deserted—fairly 'worked out;' he'd never come round +there." Thus argued Mike, and his friend cordially agreed with him. +"Lose a day's work standing outside the Commissioner's tent broiling in +a crowd, when two days would finish the job? Not he, indeed! Mike might +please himself, but HE shouldn't get a licence;" and this determination +on the part of his "mate" settled the matter. +</P> + +<P> +In one respect Mike's self-security was not unfounded; the gully +in which their tent was now pitched was nearly deserted. Some while +previous there had been a great rush to the place, so great that it was +almost excavated; then the rush took a different direction, and few now +cared to work on the two or three spots that had been left untouched. +Like many other localities considered "worked out," as much remained in +the ground as had been taken from it, and as each day added to their +store, Mike's hilarity increased. +</P> + +<P> +It was now the 10th of the month; their hole had been fairly +"bottomed," a nice little nest of nuggets discovered, their gains +divided, and the gold sent down to the escort-office for transit to +Melbourne. A few buckets-full of good washing-stuff was all that was +left undone. +</P> + +<P> +"To-day will finish that," thought Mike, and to it he set with hearty +good-will, to the intense satisfaction of his comrade, who sat watching +him at a little distance. Suddenly Mike felt a heavy hand upon his +shoulder: he looked up, and saw before him—the inspector. He had +already with him a large body of defaulters, and Mike little doubted +but that he must be added to their number. Old Hinton's determined +speech, Susan's parting words and tears, flashed across his +mind. +</P> + +<P> +"You've lost your bonnie bride," muttered Robert, loud enough to reach +his rival's ears. +</P> + +<P> +Mike glanced at him, and the look of triumph he saw there roused every +spark of energy within him, and it was in a tone of well-assumed +composure that he replied to the inspector, "My licence is in my +pocket, and my coat is below there;" and without a moment's hesitation +sprang into his hole to fetch it. Some minutes elapsed. The inspector +waxed impatient. A suspicion of the truth flashed across Robert's mind, +and he too descended the hole. THERE was the coat and the licence of +the past month in the pocket; but the owner had gone, vanished, and an +excavation on one side which led into the next hole and thence into a +complete labyrinth underground, plainly pointed out the method of +escape. Seeing no use in ferreting the delinquent out of so dangerous a +place, the inspector sulkily withdrew, though not without venting some +of his ill-humour upon Robert, at whose representations, made to him +the day previous, he had come so far out of his road. +</P> + +<P> +But let us return to Mike. By a happy thought, he had suddenly +remembered that whilst working some days before in the hole, his pick +had let in daylight on one side, and the desperate hope presented +itself to his mind that he might make a passage into the next pit, +which he knew led into others, and thus escape. His success was beyond +his expectation; and he regained the open air at a sufficient distance +from his late quarters to escape observation. Once able to reflect +calmly upon the event of the morning, it required little discrimination +to fix upon Robert his real share in it. And now there was no time to +lose in returning to Melbourne, and prevent by a speedy marriage any +further attempt to set his intended father-in-law against him. The +roads were dry, for it was the sultry month of February; and two days +saw him beside his lady-love. +</P> + +<P> +Although railroads are as yet unknown in Australia, everything goes on +at railroad speed; and a marriage concocted one day is frequently +solemnized the next. His eagerness, therefore, was no way remarkable. +No time was lost; and when, three days after Mike's return, Robert +(with his head full of plots and machinations) presented himself +at old Hinton's door, he found them all at a well-spread wedding +breakfast, round which were gathered a merry party, listening with a +digger's interest to the way in which the happy bridegroom had evaded +the inspector. Mike had wisely kept the story till Susan was his wife. +</P> + +<P> +THURSDAY 16.—With great delight we hailed the prognostications of a +fine day, and, after having eaten a hearty breakfast on the strength of +it, we recommenced our travels, and crossed the Coliban Bridge. The +Coliban is a fine river running through a beautiful valley bounded with +green trees; the bridge is a timber one, out of repair, and dangerous. +A township called Malmsbury has been laid out here in small allotments +with the expectation of a future city; but as yet not a house has been +erected, with the exception of the "hotel" before mentioned, putting +one in mind of the American Eden in "Martin Chuzzlewit." A mile beyond +the Coliban are the washing huts of John Orr's Station, and about three +miles to the left is his residence; the house is stone, with verandahs, +the garden and vineyards are prettily laid out. +</P> + +<P> +After passing the bridge, we took the right-hand road, which led +us through a low country, and across two or three tributary creeks; we +then reached the neighbourhood of Saw-pit Gully, so called from the +number of saw-pits there, which formerly gave employment to numerous +sawyers, whose occupation—it is almost needless to state—is now +deserted. It is surrounded with fine large timber; there are several +coffee-shops, a blacksmith's and wheelright's, and a neat little +weather-board inn. +</P> + +<P> +At this part, our German friends bade us farewell, to follow out their +original plan of going to Forest Creek; they had persuaded four others +to accompany them, so our number was reduced to fifteen, myself +included. The scenery now became very beautiful, diversified with hill +and dale, well wooded, with here and there a small creek, more +agreeable to look at than to cross, as there were either no bridges or +broken-down ones. The loveliness of the weather seemed to impart energy +even to our horses; and we did not pitch our tents till we had +travelled full sixteen miles. We were now close beside Mount Alexander, +which is nearly covered with timber, chiefly white gum, wattle +and stringy bark. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY, 17.—A lovely morning; we proceeded in excellent spirits, +passing some beautiful scenery, though rather monotonous. During the +first few miles, we went across many little creeks, in the +neighbourhood of which were indications that the diggers had been at +work. These symptoms we hailed with intense delight. Gregory told us +the history of a hole in this neighbourhood, out of which five people +cleared 13,000 pounds worth of gold each in about a few hours. In lieu of +sinking a shaft, they commenced in a gully (colonial for valley), and +drove a hole on an inclined plane up the side of the hill or rise. +However wet the season, they could never be inconvenienced, as the very +inclination would naturally drain the hole. Such a precaution was not +needed, as the whole party were perfectly satisfied with the success +they had had without toiling for more. The country between here and the +"Porcupine Inn" is exceedingly beautiful—not unlike many parts in the +lowlands of Wales. About eight miles on the road we pass Barker's +Creek, which runs through a beautiful vale. +</P> + +<P> +We camped this evening about four or five miles from Bendigo, +and some miles from the "Porcupine Inn," which we left behind us. The +"Porcupine" is a newly built inn on an old spot, for I believe there +was an inn in existence there before the diggings were ever heard or +thought of. The accommodation appears on rather a small scale. Near it +is a portion of the station of the Messrs. Gibson, through which the +public road runs; some parts are fine, others wooded and swampy. +</P> + +<P> +SATURDAY, 18.—Fine day; we now approached Bendigo. The timber here is +very large. Here we first beheld the majestic iron bark, EUCALYPTI, the +trunks of which are fluted with the exquisite regularity of a Doric +column; they are in truth the noblest ornaments of these mighty +forests. A few miles further, and the diggings themselves burst upon +our view. Never shall I forget that scene, it well repaid a journey +even of sixteen thousand miles. The trees had been all cut down; it +looked like a sandy plain, or one vast unbroken succession of countless +gravel pits—the earth was everywhere turned up—men's heads +in every direction were popping up and down from their holes. Well +might an Australian writer, in speaking of Bendigo, term it "The +Carthage of the Tyre of Forest Creek." The rattle of the cradle, as it +swayed to and fro, the sounds of the pick and shovel, the busy hum of +so many thousands, the innumerable tents, the stores with large flags +hoisted above them, flags of every shape, colour, and nation, from the +lion and unicorn of England to the Russian eagle, the strange yet +picturesque costume of the diggers themselves, all contributed to +render the scene novel in the extreme. +</P> + +<P> +We hurried through this exciting locality as quickly as possible; and, +after five miles travelling, reached the Eagle Hawk Gully, where we +pitched our tents, supped, and retired to rest—though, for myself at +least, not to sleep. The excitement of the day was sufficient cure for +drowsiness. Before proceeding with an account of our doings at the +Eagle Hawk, I will give a slight sketch of the character and +peculiarities of the diggings themselves, which are of course not +confined to one spot, but are the characteristics that usually +exist in any auriferous regions, where the diggers are at work. I will +leave myself, therefore, safely ensconced beneath a tent at the Eagle +Hawk, and take a slight and rapid survey of the principal diggings in +the neighbourhood from Saw-pit Gully to Sydney Flat. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap06"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter VI. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE DIGGINGS +</H3> + +<P> +Of the history of the discovery of gold in Australia I believe few are +ignorant; it is therefore necessary that my recapitulation of it should +be as brief as possible. The first supposed discovery took place some +sixty years ago, at Port Jackson. A convict made known to Governor +Phillip the existence of an auriferous region near Sydney, and on the +locality being examined, particles of real gold-dust were found. Every +one was astonished, and several other spots were tried without success. +Suspicion was now excited, and the affair underwent a thorough +examination, which elicited the following facts. The convict, in +the hope of obtaining his pardon as a reward, had filed a guinea and +some brass buttons, which, judiciously mixed, made a tolerable pile of +gold-dust, and this he carefully distributed over a small tract of +sandy land. In lieu of the expected freedom, his ingenuity was rewarded +with close confinement and other punishments. Thus ended the first idea +of a gold-field in those colonies. +</P> + +<P> +In 1841 the Rev. W. B. Clarke expressed his belief in the existence of +gold in the valley of the Macquarie, and this opinion was greatly +confirmed by the observations of European geologists on the Uralian +Mountains. In 1849 an indisputable testimony was added to these +opinions by a Mr. Smith, who was then engaged in some iron works, near +Berrima, and who brought a splendid specimen of gold in quartz to the +Colonial Secretary. Sir C. A. Fitzroy evinced little sympathy with the +discovery, and in a despatch to Lord Grey upon the subject, expressed +his opinion that "any investigation that the Government might institute +with the view of ascertaining whether gold did in reality exist to any +extent or value in that part of the colony where it was supposed +from its geological formation that metal would be found, would only +tend to agitate the public mind, &c." +</P> + +<P> +Suddenly, in 1851, at the time that the approaching opening of the +Crystal Palace was the principal subject of attention in England, the +colonies of Australia were in a state of far greater excitement, as the +news spread like wild-fire, far and wide, that gold was really there. +To Edward Hammond Hargreaves be given the honour of this discovery. +This gentleman was an old Australian settler, just returned from a trip +to California, where he had been struck by the similarity of the +geological formation of the mountain ranges in his adopted country to +that of the Sacramento district. On his return, he immediately searched +for the precious metal; Ophir, the Turon, and Bathurst well repaid his +labour. Thus commenced the gold diggings of New South Wales. +</P> + +<P> +The good people of Victoria were rather jealous of the importance given +by these events to the other colony. Committees were formed, and +rewards were offered for the discovery of a gold-field in Victoria. The +announcement of the Clunes Diggings in July, 1851, was the +result; they were situated on a tributary of the Loddon. On September 8, +those of Ballarat, and on the 10th those of Mount Alexander +completely satisfied the most sceptical as to the vast mineral wealth +of the colony. Bendigo soon was heard of; and gully after gully +successively attracted the attention of the public by the display of +their golden treasures. +</P> + +<P> +The names given to these gullies open a curious field of speculation. +Many have a sort of digger's tradition respecting their first +discovery. The riches of Peg Leg Gully were brought to light through +the surfacing of three men with wooden legs, who were unable to sink a +hole in the regular way. Golden Gully was discovered by a man who, +whilst lounging on the ground and idly pulling up the roots of grass +within his reach, found beneath one a nest of golden nuggets. Eagle +Hawk derives its name from the number of eagle-hawks seen in the gully +before the sounds of the pick and shovel drove them away. Murderer's +Flat and Choke'em Gully tell their own tale. The Irish clan together in +Tipperary Gully. A party of South Australians gave the name of their +chief town to Adelaide Gully. The Iron Bark is so called from +the magnificent trees which abound there. Long, Piccaninny, and Dusty +Gully need no explanation. The Jim Crow ranges are appropriately so +called, for it is only by keeping up a sort of Jim Crow dancing +movement that one can travel about there; it is the roughest piece of +country at the diggings. White Horse Gully obtained its name from a +white horse whose hoofs, whilst the animal in a rage was plunging here +and there, flung up the surface ground and disclosed the treasures +beneath. In this gully was found the famous "John Bull Nugget," lately +exhibited in London. The party to whom it belonged consisted of three +poor sailors; the one who actually discovered it had only been a +fortnight at the diggings. The nugget weighed forty-five pounds, and +was only a few inches beneath the surface. It was sold for 5,000 pounds; a +good morning's work that! +</P> + +<P> +Let us take a stroll round Forest Creek—what a novel scene!—thousands +of human beings engaged in digging, wheeling, carrying, and washing, +intermingled with no little grumbling, scolding and swearing. +We approach first the old Post-office Square; next our eye glances +down Adelaide Gully, and over the Montgomery and White Hills, +all pretty well dug up; now we pass the Private Escort Station, and +Little Bendigo. At the junction of Forest, Barker, and Campbell Creeks +we find the Commissioners' quarters—this is nearly five miles from +our starting point. We must now return to Adelaide Gully, and keep +alongside Adelaide Creek, till we come to a high range of rocks, which +we cross, and then find ourselves near the head-waters of Fryer's +Creek. Following that stream towards the Loddon, we pass the +interesting neighbourhood of Golden Gully, Moonlight Flat, Windlass and +Red Hill; this latter which covers about two acres of ground is so +called from the colour of the soil, it was the first found, and is +still considered as the richest auriferous spot near Mount Alexander. +In the wet season, it was reckoned that on Moonlight Flat one man was +daily buried alive from the earth falling into his hole. Proceeding +north-east in the direction of Campbell's Creek, we again reach the +Commissioners' tent. +</P> + +<P> +The principal gullies about Bendigo are Sailors's, Napoleon, +Pennyweight, Peg Leg, Growler's, White Horse, Eagle Hawk, Californian, +American, Derwent, Long, Picaninny, Iron Bark, Black Man's, Poor Man's, +Dusty, Jim Crow, Spring, and Golden—also Sydney Flat, and Specimen +Hill—Haverton Gully, and the Sheep-wash. Most of these places are +well-ransacked and tunnelled, but thorough good wages may always be +procured by tin dish washing in deserted holes, or surface washing. +</P> + +<P> +It is not only the diggers, however, who make money at the Gold Fields. +Carters, carpenters, storemen, wheelwrights, butchers, shoemakers, &c., +usually in the long run make a fortune quicker than the diggers +themselves, and certainly with less hard work or risk of life. They can +always get from one to two pounds a day without rations, whereas they may +dig for weeks and get nothing. Living is not more expensive than in +Melbourne: meat is generally from 4d. to 6d. a pound, flour about 1s. 6d +a pound, (this is the most expensive article in house-keeping +there,) butter must be dispensed with, as that is seldom less than +4s. a pound, and only successful diggers can indulge in such articles as +cheese, pickles, ham, sardines, pickled salmon, or spirits, as +all these things, though easily procured if you have gold to throw +away, are expensive, the last-named article (diluted with water or +something less innoxious) is only to be obtained for 30s. a bottle. +</P> + +<P> +The stores, which are distinguished by a flag, are numerous and well +stocked. A new style of lodging and boarding house is in great vogue. +It is a tent fitted up with stringy bark couches, ranged down each side +the tent, leaving a narrow passage up the middle. The lodgers are +supplied with mutton, damper, and tea, three times a day, for the +charge of 5s. a meal, and 5s. for the bed; this is by the week, a +casual guest must pay double, and as 18 inches is on an average +considered ample width to sleep in, a tent 24 feet long will bring in a +good return to the owner. +</P> + +<P> +The stores at the diggings are large tents, generally square or oblong, +and everything required by a digger can be obtained for money, from +sugar-candy to potted anchovies; from East India pickles to Bass's pale +ale; from ankle jack boots to a pair of stays; from a baby's cap to a +cradle; and every apparatus for mining, from a pick to a needle. But +the confusion—the din—the medley—what a scene for a shop +walker! Here lies a pair of herrings dripping into a bag of sugar, or a +box of raisins; there a gay-looking bundle of ribbons beneath two +tumblers, and a half-finished bottle of ale. Cheese and butter, bread +and yellow soap, pork and currants, saddles and frocks, wide-awakes and +blue serge shirts, green veils and shovels, baby linen and tallow +candles, are all heaped indiscriminately together; added to which, +there are children bawling, men swearing, store-keeper sulky, and last, +not LEAST, women's tongues going nineteen to the dozen. +</P> + +<P> +Most of the store-keepers are purchasers of gold either for cash or in +exchange for goods, and many are the tricks from which unsuspecting +diggers suffer. One great and outrageous trick is to weigh the parcels +separately, or divide the whole, on the excuse that the weight would be +too much for the scales; and then, on adding up the grains and +pennyweights, the sellers often lose at least half an ounce. On one +occasion, out of seven pounds weight, a party once lost an ounce and +three quarters in this manner. There is also the old method of false +beams—one in favour of the purchaser—and here, unless the +seller weighs in both pans, he loses considerably. Another mode of +cheating is to have glass pans resting on a piece of green baize; under +this baize, and beneath the pan which holds the weights, is a wetted +sponge, which causes that pan to adhere to the baize, and consequently +it requires more gold to make it level; this, coupled with the false +reckoning, is ruinous to the digger. In town, the Jews have a system of +robbing a great deal from sellers before they purchase the gold-dust +(for in these instances it must be DUST): it is thrown into a zinc pan +with slightly raised sides, which are well rubbed over with grease; and +under the plea of a careful examination, the purchaser shakes and rubs +the dust, and a considerable quantity adheres to the sides. A commoner +practice still is for examiners of gold-dust to cultivate long +finger-nails, and, in drawing the fingers about it, gather some up. +</P> + +<P> +Sly grog selling is the bane of the diggings. Many—perhaps +nine-tenths—of the diggers are honest industrious men, desirous of +getting a little there as a stepping-stone to independence elsewhere; +but the other tenth is composed of outcasts and transports—the refuse +of Van Diemen's Land—men of the most depraved and abandoned +characters, who have sought and gained the lowest abyss of crime, and +who would a short time ago have expiated their crimes on a scaffold. +They generally work or rob for a space, and when well stocked with +gold, retire to Melbourne for a month or so, living in drunkenness and +debauchery. If, however, their holiday is spent at the diggings, the +sly grog-shop is the last scene of their boisterous career. Spirit +selling is strictly prohibited; and although Government will license a +respectable public-house on the ROAD, it is resolutely refused ON the +diggings. The result has been the opposite of that which it was +intended to produce. There is more drinking and rioting at the diggings +than elsewhere, the privacy and risk gives the obtaining it an +excitement which the diggers enjoy as much as the spirit itself; and +wherever grog is sold on the sly, it will sooner or later be the scene +of a riot, or perhaps murder. Intemperance is succeeded by quarrelling +and fighting, the neighbouring tents report to the police, and the +offenders are lodged in the lock-up; whilst the grog-tent, spirits, +wine, &c., are seized and taken to the Commissioners. Some of +the stores, however, manage to evade the law rather cleverly—as +spirits are not SOLD, "my friend" pays a shilling more for his fig of +tobacco, and his wife an extra sixpence for her suet; and they smile at +the store-man, who in return smiles knowingly at them, and then glasses +are brought out, and a bottle produced, which sends forth NOT a +fragrant perfume on the sultry air. +</P> + +<P> +It is no joke to get ill at the diggings; doctors make you pay for it. +Their fees are—for a consultation, at their own tent, ten shillings; +for a visit out, from one to ten pounds, according to time and +distance. Many are regular quacks, and these seem to flourish best. The +principal illnesses are weakness of sight, from the hot winds and sandy +soil, and dysentery, which is often caused by the badly-cooked food, +bad water, and want of vegetables. +</P> + +<P> +The interior of the canvas habitation of the digger is desolate enough; +a box on a block of wood forms a table, and this is the only furniture; +many dispense with that. The bedding, which is laid on the ground, +serves to sit upon. Diogenes in his tub would not have looked more +comfortless than any one else. Tin plates and pannicans, the +same as are used for camping up, compose the breakfast, dinner, and tea +service, which meals usually consist of the same dishes—mutton, +damper, and tea. +</P> + +<P> +In some tents the soft influence of our sex is pleasingly apparent: the +tins are as bright as silver, there are sheets as well as blankets on +the beds, and perhaps a clean counterpane, with the addition of a dry +sack or piece of carpet on the ground; whilst a pet cockatoo, chained +to a perch, makes noise enough to keep the "missus" from feeling lonely +when the good man is at work. Sometimes a wife is at first rather a +nuisance; women get scared and frightened, then cross, and commence a +"blow up" with their husbands; but all their railing generally ends in +their quietly settling down to this rough and primitive style of +living, if not without a murmur, at least to all appearance with the +determination to laugh and bear it. And although rough in their +manners, and not over select in their address, the digger seldom +wilfully injures a woman; in fact, a regular Vandemonian will, in his +way, play the gallant with as great a zest as a fashionable about +town—at any rate, with more sincerity of heart. +</P> + +<P> +Sunday is kept at the diggings in a very orderly manner; and +among the actual diggers themselves, the day of rest is taken in a +VERBATIM sense. It is not unusual to have an established clergyman +holding forth near the Commissioners' tent and almost within hearing +will be a tub orator expounding the origin of evil, whilst a "mill" (a +fight with fisticuffs) or a dog fight fills up the background. +</P> + +<P> +But night at the diggings is the characteristic time: murder +here—murder there—revolvers cracking—blunderbusses bombing—rifles +going off—balls whistling—one man groaning with a broken leg—another +shouting because he couldn't find the way to his hole, and a +third equally vociferous because he has tumbled into one—this man +swearing—an other praying—a party of bacchanals chanting various +ditties to different time and tune, or rather minus both. Here is one +man grumbling because he has brought his wife with him, another ditto +because he has left his behind, or sold her for an ounce of gold or a +bottle of rum. Donnybrook Fair is not to be compared to an evening at +Bendigo. +</P> + +<P> +Success at the diggings is like drawing lottery tickets—the +blanks far outnumber the prizes; still, with good health, strength, and +above all perseverance, it is strange if a digger does not in the end +reap a reward for his labour. Meanwhile, he must endure almost +incredible hardships. In the rainy season, he must not murmur if +compelled to work up to his knees in water, and sleep on the wet +ground, without a fire, in the pouring rain, and perhaps no shelter +above him more waterproof than a blanket or a gum tree; and this not +for once only, but day after day, night after night. In the summer, he +must work hard under a burning sun, tortured by the mosquito and the +little stinging March flies, or feel his eyes smart and his throat grow +dry and parched, as the hot winds, laden with dust, pass over him. How +grateful now would be a draught from some cold sparkling streamlet; +but, instead, with what sort of water must he quench his thirst? Much +the same, gentle reader, as that which runs down the sides of a dirty +road on a rainy day, and for this a shilling a bucket must be paid. +Hardships such as these are often the daily routine of a digger's life; +yet, strange to say, far from depressing the spirits or weakening the +frame, they appear in most cases to give strength and energy to +both. This is principally owing to the climate, which even in the wet +season is mild and salubrious. +</P> + +<P> +Perhaps nothing will speak better for the general order that prevails +at the diggings, than the small amount of physical force maintained +there by Government to keep some thousands of persons of all ages, +classes, characters, religions and countries in good humour with the +laws and with one another. The military force numbers 130, officers and +men; the police about 300. +</P> + +<P> +The Government escort is under the control of Mr. Wright, Chief +Commissioner; it consists of about forty foot and sixty mounted police, +with the usual complement of inspectors and sergeants; their uniform is +blue—with white facings, their head-quarters are by the +Commissioners' tent, Forest Creek. +</P> + +<P> +The private escort uniform is a plain blue frock coat and trowsers. It +is under the superintendence of Mr. Wilkinson; the head-quarters are at +Montgomery Hill, Forest Creek. Both these escorts charge one per cent +for conveying gold. +</P> + +<P> +For the Victoria diggings, there is a Chief Commissioner, one +Acting Resident Commissioner; one Assistant Commissioner at Ballarat, +one at Fryer's Creek, five at Forest Creek, and six at Bendigo. +</P> + +<P> +Provision is made by Government for the support, at the mines, of two +clergymen of each of the four State paid churches of England, Scotland, +Rome, and Wesleyan, at a salary of 300 pounds a year. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap07"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter VII. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +EAGLE HAWK GULLY +</H3> + +<P> +Before commencing an account of our operations at the Eagle Hawk, it +will be necessary to write a few words in description of our +gold-digging party there; their Christian names will be sufficient +distinction, and will leave their incognito undisturbed. +</P> + +<P> +This party, as I have said before, consisted of five gentlemen, +including my brother. Of the latter I shall only say that he was young +and energetic, more accustomed to use his brains than his fingers, yet +with a robust frame, and muscles well strengthened by the various +exercises of boating, cricketing, &c., with which our embryo +collegians attempt to prepare themselves for keeping their "terms." +</P> + +<P> +Frank ——— (who, from being a married man, was looked up to as the head +of our rather juvenile party) was of a quiet and sedate disposition, +rather given to melancholy, for which in truth he had cause. His +marriage had taken place without the sanction—or rather in defiance of +the wishes—of his parents, for his wife was portionless, and in a +station a few grades, as they considered, below his own; moreover, +Frank himself was not of age. Private income, independent of his +parents, he had none. A situation as clerk in a merchant's office was +his only resource, and during three years he had eked out his salary to +support a delicate wife—whose ill health was a neverfailing source of +anxiety and expense—two infants, and himself. An unexpected legacy of +500 pounds from a distant relative at last seemed to open a brighter +prospect before them; and leaving his wife and children with their +relatives, he quitted England to seek in a distant land a better home than +all his exertions could procure for them in their own country. I never +felt surprised or offended at his silent and preoccupied manner, +accompanied at times by great depression of spirits, for it was an +awful responsibility for one so young, brought up as he had been in the +greatest luxury, as the eldest son of a wealthy merchant, to have not +only himself but others nearest and dearest to maintain by his own +exertions. +</P> + +<P> +William ———, a tall, slight, and rather delicate looking man, is the +next of our party whom I shall mention. His youth had been passed at +Christ's Hospital. This he quitted with the firm conviction (in which +all his friends of course participated) that he had been greatly +wronged by not having been elected a Grecian; and a rich uncle, incited +by the beforementioned piece of injustice, took him under his care, and +promised to settle him in the world as soon as a short apprenticeship +to business had been gone through. A sudden illness put a stop to all +these schemes. The physicians recommended change of air, a warmer +climate, a trip to Australia. William had relatives residing in +Melbourne, so the journey was quickly decided upon, a cabin taken; and +the invalid rapidly recovering beneath the exhilarating effects of the +sea-breezes. How refreshing are they to the sick! how caressingly does +the soft sea-air fan the wan cheeks of those exhausted with a life +passed amidst the brick walls and crowded, noisy streets of a city; +and William, who at first would have laughed at so ridiculous a +supposition, ere the four months' voyage was terminated, had gained +strength and spirits sufficient to make him determine to undertake a +trip to the diggings. +</P> + +<P> +He was a merry light-hearted fellow, fonder of a joke than hard work, +yet ever keeping a sharp eye to the "main chance," as the following +anecdote will prove. +</P> + +<P> +One day during our stay in Melbourne he came to me, and said, laughing: +</P> + +<P> +"Well! I've got rid of one of the bad HABITS I had on board the ——." +</P> + +<P> +"Which?" was my reply. +</P> + +<P> +"That old frock-coat I used to wear in the cold weather whilst we +rounded the Cape. A fellow down at Liardet's admired the cut, asked me +to sell it. I charged him four guineas, and walked into town in my +shirt-sleeves; soon colonized, eh?" +</P> + +<P> +Richard ——— was a gay young fellow of twenty, the only son of a rich +member of the stock Exchange. In a fit of spleen, because the +parental regulations required him always to be at home by midnight, he +shipped himself off to Australia, trusting that so energetic a step +"would bring the govenor to his senses." He was music-mad, and appeared +to know every opera by heart, and wearied us out of all patience with +his everlasting humming of "Ciascun lo dice" "Non piu mesta," &c. +</P> + +<P> +Octavius ——— was the eighth son of a poor professional man, who, after +giving him a good general education, sent him with a small capital to +try his fortune in the colonies. For this he was in every way well +fitted, being possessed of a strong constitution, good common sense, +and simple inexpensive habits; he was only nineteen, and the youngest +of the male portion of our party. +</P> + +<P> +The day after our arrival at the diggings, being Sunday, we passed in +making ourselves comfortable, and devising our future plans. We +determined to move from our present quarters, and pitch our tents +higher up the gully, near Montgomery's store. This we accomplished the +first thing on Monday morning and at about a hundred yards from us our +four shipmates also fixed themselves, which added both to our +comfort and security. +</P> + +<P> +A few words for their introduction. +</P> + +<P> +One of them was a Scotchman, who wished to make enough capital at the +mines to invest in a sheep-run; and as his countrymen are proverbially +fortunate in the colonies, I think it possible he may some time hence +be an Australian MILLIONAIRE. Another of these was an architect, who +was driven, as it were, to the diggings, because his profession, from +the scarcity of labour, was at the time almost useless in Melbourne. +The third was, or rather had been, a house-painter and decorator, who +unfortunately possessed a tolerably fine voice, which led him gradually +to abandon a good business to perform at concerts. Too late he found +that he had dropped the substance for the shadow; emigration seemed his +only resource; so leaving a wife and large family behind, he brought +his mortified vanity and ruined fortunes to begin the world anew with +in Australia. He was the only one whose means prevented him from taking +a share in our venture; but to avoid confusion, the Scotchman +subscribed twice the usual sum, thus securing double Profits. +The fourth was a gentleman farmer, whose sole enemy, by his account, +was Free Trade, and who held the names Cobden and Bright in utter +detestation. +</P> + +<P> +As soon as the tents were pitched, all set to work to unpack the dray: +and after taking out sufficient flour, sugar, tea, &c., for use, the +remainder of the goods were taken to the nearest store, where they were +sold at an average of five times their original costs: the most +profitable portion of the cargo consisted of some gunpowder and +percusion-caps. The day after, by good fortune, we disposed of the dray +and horses for 250 pounds, being only 40 pounds less than we paid for +them. As the cost of keeping horses at the diggings is very great +(sometimes two or three pounds a day per head), besides the constant risk +of their being lost or stolen, we were well satisfied with the bargain; +and never did mind young speculators, who five months previous had been +utter strangers, accomplish their undertaking to themselves, or less +disagreement one with another. +</P> + +<P> +This business settled, the next was to procure licences, which +was a walk of nearly five miles to the Commissioners' tent, Bendigo, +and wasted the best part of Wednesday. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile we were Seriously debating about again changing our quarters. +We found it almost impossible to sleep. Never before could I have +imagined that a woman's voice could utter sounds sufficiently +discordant to drive repose far from us, yet so it was. +</P> + +<P> +The gentlemen christened her "the amiable female." +</P> + +<P> +The tent of this "amiable" personage was situated at right angles with +ours and our shipmates, so that the annoyance was equally felt. Whilst +her husband was at work farther down the gully, she kept a sort of sly +grog-shop, and passed the day in selling and drinking spirits, +swearing, and smoking a short tobacco-pipe at the door of her tent. She +was a most repulsive looking object. A dirty gaudy-coloured dress hung +unfastened about her shoulders, coarse black hair unbrushed, uncombed, +dangled about her face, over which her evil habits had spread a +genuine bacchanalian glow, whilst in a loud masculine voice she uttered +the most awful words that ever disgraced the mouth of man ten +thousand times more awful when proceeding from a woman's lips. +</P> + +<P> +But night was the dreadful time; then, if her husband had been unlucky, +or herself made fewer profits during the day, it was misery to be +within earshot; so much so, that we decided to leave so uncomfortable a +neighbourhood without loss of time, and carrying our tents, &c., higher +up the gully we finally pitched them not far from the Portland Stores. +</P> + +<P> +This was done on Thursday, and the same evening two different claims +were marked out ready to commence working the next day. These claims +were the usual size, eight feet square. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY, 24.—Early this morning our late travelling companion, Joe, made +his appearance with a sack (full of bran, he said,) on his shoulders. +After a little confidential talk with William, he left the sack in our +tent, as he had no other safe place to stow it away in till the bran +was sold. This gave rise to no suspicion, and in the excitement of +digging was quite forgotten. +</P> + +<P> +About noon I contrived to have a damper and a large joint of baked +mutton ready for the "day labourers," as they styled themselves. The +mutton was baked in a large camp oven suspended from three iron bars, +which were fixed in the ground in the form of a triangle, about a yard +apart, and were joined together at the top, at which part the oven was +hung over a wood fire. This grand cooking machine was, of course, +outside the tent. Sometimes I have seen a joint of meat catch fire in +one of these ovens, and it is difficult to extinguish it before the fat +has burnt itself away, when the meat looks like a cinder. +</P> + +<P> +Our butcher would not let us have less than half a sheep at a time, for +which we paid 8s. I was not good housekeeper enough to know how much it +weighed, but the meat was very good. Flour was then a shilling a pound, +or two hundred pounds weight for nine pounds in money. Sugar was 1s. +6d., and tea 3s. 6d. Fortunately we were Well provided with these three +latter articles. +</P> + +<P> +The hungry diggers did ample justice to the dinner I had provided for +them. They brought home a tin-dish full of surface soil, which in +the course of the afternoon I attempted to wash. +</P> + +<P> +Tin-dish-washing is difficult to describe. It requires a watchful eye +and a skilful hand; it is the most mysterious department of the +gold-digging business. The tin dish (which, of course, is round) is +generally about eighteen inches across the top, and twelve across the +bottom, with sloping sides of three or four inches deep. The one I used +was rather smaller. Into it I placed about half the "dirt"—digger's +technical term for earth, or soil—that they had brought, filled the +dish up with water, and then with a thick stick commenced making it +into a batter; this was a most necessary commencement, as the soil was +of a very stiff clay. I then let this batter—I know no name more +appropriate for it—settle, and carefully poured off the water at the +top. I now added some clean water, and repeated the operation of mixing +it up; and after doing this several times, the "dirt," of course, +gradually diminishing, I was overjoyed to see a few bright specks, which +I carefully picked out, and with renewed energy continued this by no +means elegant work. Before the party returned to tea I had washed out all +the stuff, and procured from it nearly two pennyweights of gold-dust, +worth about 6s. or 7s. +</P> + +<P> +Tin-dish-washing is generally done beside a stream, and it is +astonishing how large a quantity of "dirt" those who have the knack of +doing it well and quickly can knock off in the course of the day. To do +this, however, requires great manual dexterity, and much gold is lost +by careless washing. A man once extracted ten pounds weight of the +precious metal from a heap of soil which his mate had washed too +hurriedly. +</P> + +<P> +In the evening Joe made his re-appearance, carrying another sack on his +shoulders, which contained a number of empty bottles, and now for the +first time we became initiated into the BRAN mystery which had often +puzzled us on the road—it seemed so strange a thing to carry up to the +diggings. Joe laughed at our innocence, and denied having told us +anything approaching a falsehood; a slight suppression of the truth was +all he would plead guilty to. I verily believe William had put him up +to this dodge, to make us smile when we should have felt annoyed. Being +taxed with deceit, said he: "I told you two-thirds truth; there +wanted but two more letters to make it BRANDY," and with the greatest +SANG-FROID he drew out a small keg of brandy from the first sack and +half-filled the bottles with the spirit, after which he filled them all +up to the neck with water. The bottles were then corked, and any or all +of them politely offered to us at the rate of 30s a piece. We declined +purchasing, but he sold them all during the evening, for which we were +rather glad, as, had they been discovered by the officials in our tent, +a fine of 50 pounds would have been the consequence of our foolish +comrades good-nature and joke-loving propensities. +</P> + +<P> +We afterwards found that Master Joe had played the same trick with our +shipmates and with the two doctors, who had bought a tent and settled +themselves near our old place by Montgomery's store. +</P> + +<P> +SATURDAY, 25.—The two holes were "bottomed" before noon with no paying +result. It had been hard work, and they were rather low-spirited about +it. The rest of the day they spent in washing some surface-soil, and +altogether collected about I ounce and a half of gold-dust, +counting the little I had washed out on the Friday. In the evening it +was all dried by being placed in a spade over a quick fire. We had +before determined to square accounts and divide the gold every Saturday +night, but this small quantity was not worth the trouble, so it was +laid by in the digger's usual treasury, a German match-box. These round +boxes hold on an average eight ounces of gold. +</P> + +<P> +These two unproductive holes had not been very deep. The top, or +surface soil, for which a spade or shovel is used, was of clay. This +was succeeded by a strata almost as hard as iron—technically called +"burnt stuff,"—which robbed the pick of its points nearly as soon as the +blacksmith had steeled them at a charge of 2s. 6d. a point. Luckily for +their arms, this strata was but thin, and the yellow or blue clay which +followed was comparatively easy work—here and there an awkward lump of +quartz required the use of the pick. Suddenly they came to some +glittering particles of yellow, which, with heartfelt delight they +hailed as gold. It WAS MICA. Many are at first deceived by it, but it +is soon distinguished by its weight, as the mica will blow away with +the slightest puff. After a little useless digging among the +clay, they reached the solid rock, and thus having fairly "bottomed," +the holes to no purpose, they abandoned them. +</P> + +<P> +SUNDAY, 26.—Although impossible at the diggings to keep this day with +those outward observances which are customary in civilized life, we +attempted to make as much difference as possible between the day of +rest and that of work. Frank performed the office of chaplain, and read +the morning service in the calm and serious manner which we expected +from him. +</P> + +<P> +I was rather amused to see the alacrity with which, when this slight +service was over, they all prepared to assist me in the formation of a +huge plum-pudding for the Sunday's dinner. Stoning plums and chopping +suet seemed to afford them immense pleasure—I suppose it was a +novelty; and, contrary to the fact implied in the old adage, "too many +cooks spoil the broth" our pudding turned out A1. +</P> + +<P> +In the afternoon we strolled about, and paid a visit to our shipmates. +I was certainly most agreeably surprised by the quiet and order that +everywhere prevailed. +</P> + +<P> +MONDAY, 27.—Today our party commenced "sinking" in a new spot at some +little distance. The first layer of black soil was removed, and on some +being washed in a tin dish, it was found to contain a tolerable portion +of gold, and was pronounced to be worth transporting to the tent to be +regularly cradled. My first official notice of this fact was from +Richard, who entered the tent humming "Suona la tromba," with a bucket +full of this heavy soil in each hand. He broke off in the middle of his +song to ask for some water to drink, and grumbled most energetically at +such dirty work. He then gave me an account of the morning's doings. +After a thin layer of the black surface soil, it appeared they had come +to a strata of thick yellow clay, in which gold was often very +abundant. This soil, from being so stiff, would require "puddling," a +work of which he did not seem to relish the anticipation. Before the +day was over, a great number of buckets full of both soils were brought +up and deposited in heaps near the tents. All, with the exception of +the "operatic" Richard, seemed in good spirits, and were well satisfied +with what had been done in so short a time. +</P> + +<P> +In the evening the other party of our shipmates arrived, and were busy +fixing their tent at a distance of about forty yards from us. Frank and +the other four, though pretty tired with the days labour, lent a +helping hand, the united efforts of nine speedily accomplished this +business, after which an immense quantity of cold mutton, damper, and +tea made a rapid disappearance, almost emptying my larder, which, by +the bye, was an old tea-chest. +</P> + +<P> +We asked our friends their motive for leaving the old spot, and they +declared they could stand the "amiable female" no longer; she grew +worse and worse. "Her tongue was sich" observed the Scotchman, "as wad +drive ony puir beastie wild." She had regularly quarrelled with the two +doctors because they would not give her a written certificate, that the +state of her health required the constant use of spirits. She offered them +two guineas for it, which they indignantly refused, and she then declared +her intention of injuring their practice as much as possible, which she +had power to do, as her tent was of an evening quite the centre of +attraction and her influence proportionably great. Pity 'tis that such a +woman should be able to mar or make the fortunes of her fellow +creatures. +</P> + +<P> +TUESDAY, 28.—The holes commenced yesterday were duly "bottomed," but no +nice pocket-full of gold was the result; our shipmates, however, met +with better success, having found three small nuggets weighing two to +four ounces each at a depth of not quite five feet from the surface. +</P> + +<P> +WEDNESDAY, 29.—To-day was spent in puddling and cradling. +</P> + +<P> +Puddling is on the same principle as tin-dish-washing, only on a much +larger scale. Great wooden tubs are filled with the dirt and fresh +water, and the former is chopped about in all directions with a spade, +so as to set the metal free from the adhesive soil and pipe-clay. +Sometimes I have seen energetic diggers tuck up their trowsers, off +with their boots, step into the tub, and crush it about with their feet +in the same manner as tradition affirms that the London bakers knead +their bread. Every now and again the dirtied water is poured off +gently, and with a fresh supply, which is furnished by a mate with a +long-handled dipper from the stream or pool, you puddle away. The +great thing is, not to be afraid Of over-work, for the better +the puddling is, so much the more easy and profitable is the cradling. +After having been well beaten in the tubs, the "dirt" is put into the +hopper of the cradle, which is then rocked gently, whilst another party +keeps up a constant supply of fresh water. In the right hand of the +cradler is held a thick stick, ready to break up any clods which may be +in the hopper, but which a good puddler would not have sent there. +</P> + +<P> +There was plenty of water near us, for a heavy rain during the night +had filled several vacated holes, and as there were five pair of hands, +we hoped, before evening, greatly to diminish our mud-heaps. +</P> + +<P> +Now for an account of our proceedings. +</P> + +<P> +Two large wooden tubs were firmly secured in the ground and four set to +work puddling, whilst Frank busied himself in fixing the cradle. He +drove two blocks into the ground; they were grooved for the rockers of +the cradle to rest in, so as to let it rock with ease and regularity. +The ground was lowered so as to give the cradle a slight slant, and +thus enable the water to run off more quickly. If a cradle dips +too much, a little gold may wash off with the light sand. The cradling +machine, though simple in itself, is rather difficult to describe. In +shape and size it resembles an infant's cradle, and over that portion +of it where, if for a baby, a hood would be, is a perforated plate with +wooden sides, a few inches high all round, forming a sort of box with +the perforated plate for a bottom; this box is called the hopper. The +dirt is here placed, and the constant supply of water, after well +washing the stuff, runs out through a hole made at the foot of the +cradle. The gold generally rests on a wooden shelf under the hopper, +though sometimes a good deal will run down with the water and dirt into +one of the compartments at the bottom, and to separate it from the sand +or mud, tin-dish-washing is employed. +</P> + +<P> +As soon as sufficient earth was ready, one began to rock, and another +to fill the hopper with water. Richard continued puddling, William, +enacted Aquarius for him, whilst a fifth was fully occupied in +conveying fresh dirt to the tubs, and taking the puddled stuff from +them to the hopper of the cradle. Every now and then a change of hands +was made, and thus passed the day. In the evening, the products +were found to be one small nugget weighing a quarter of an ounce, and +in gold-dust eight pennyweights, ten grains, being worth, at the +digging price for gold, about thirty-five shillings. This was rather +less than we hard less calculated upon, and Richard signified his +intention of returning to Melbourne, "He could no longer put up with +such ungentlemanly work in so very unintellectual a neighbourhood, with +bad living into the bargain." These last words, which were pronounced +SOTTO VOCE, gave us a slight clue to the real cause of his dislike to +the diggings, though we, did not thoroughly understand it till next +morning. It originated in some bottles of mixed pickles which he had in +vain wanted Frank, who this week was caterer for the party, to purchase +at four shillings a bottle, which sum, as we were all on economical +thoughts intent, Frank refused to expend on any unnecessary article of +food. This we learnt next morning at breakfast, when Richard +congratulated himself on that being the last meal he should make of +tea, damper and muton, without the latter having something to render it +eatable. The puddling and cradling work had, I fancy, given the +finishing stroke to his disgust. Poor Dick! he met with little +commiseration: we could not but remember the thousands in the old +country who would have rejoiced at the simple fare he so much despised. +William, in his laughing way, observed, "that he was too great a pickle +himself, without buying fresh ones." +</P> + +<P> +Richard left us on Thursday morning, and with him went one of the other +party, the house-painter and decorator, who also found gold-digging not +so Pleasant as he had expected. We afterwards learnt that before +reaching Kilmore they separated. Richard arrived safely in Melbourne, +and entered a goldbroker's office at a salary of three pounds a week, +which situation I believe he now fills; and as "the governor," to use +Richard's own expression, "has not yet come to his senses," he must +greatly regret having allowed his temper to be the cause of his leaving +the comforts of home. His companion, who parted with Richard at +Kilmore, was robbed of what little gold he had, and otherwise +maltreated, whilst passing through the Black Forest. On reaching +Melbourne, he sold everything he possessed, and that not being +sufficient, he borrowed enough to pay his passage back to +England, where, doubtless, he will swell the number of those whose lack +of success in the colonies, and vituperations against them, are only +equalled by their unfitness ever to have gone there. +</P> + +<P> +Thursday was past in puddling and cradling, with rather better results +than on the first day, still it was not to our satisfaction, and on +Friday two pits were sunk. One was shallow, and the bottom reached +without a speck of gold making its appearance. The other was left over +till the next morning. This was altogether very disheartening work, +particularly as the expenses of living were not small. There were many, +however, much worse off than ourselves, though here and there a lucky +digger excited the envy of all around him. Many were the tricks +resorted to in order to deceive new-comers. Holes were offered for +sale, in which the few grains that were carefully placed in sight was +all that the buyer gained by his purchase. +</P> + +<P> +A scene of this description was enacted this Friday evening, at a +little distance from us. The principal actors in it were two in number. +One sat a little way from his hole with a heap of soil by his +side, and a large tin dish nearly full of dirt in his hand. As he +swayed the dish to and fro in the process of washing, an immense +number of small nuggets displayed themselves, which fact in a loud tone +he announced to his "mate", at the same time swearing at him for +keeping at work so late in the evening. This digger, who was shovelling +up more dirt from the hole, answered in the same elegant language, +calling him an "idle good-for-nought." Every now and then he threw a +small nugget to the tin-dish-washer, loudly declaring, "he'd not leave +off while them bright bits were growing thick as taters underground." +</P> + +<P> +"Then be d——d if I don't!" shouted the other; "and I'll sell the hole +for two hundred yeller boys down." +</P> + +<P> +This created a great sensation among the bystanders, who during the +time had collected round, and among whom was a party of three, +evidently "new chums." +</P> + +<P> +"It shall go for a hundred and fifty!" again shouted the washer, giving +a glance in the direction in which they stood. +</P> + +<P> +"Going for a hundred, tin-dish as well!" letting some of the +water run off, and displaying the gold. +</P> + +<P> +This decided the matter, and one of the three stepped forward and +offered the required sum. +</P> + +<P> +"Money down," said the seller; "these here fellers 'll witness it's all +reg'lar." +</P> + +<P> +The money was paid in notes, and the purchasers were about to commence +possession by taking the tin-dish out of his hand. +</P> + +<P> +"Wait till he's emptied. I promised yer the dish, but not the stuff in +it," and turning out the dirt into a small tub the two worthies +departed, carrying the tub away with them. +</P> + +<P> +Not a grain of gold did the buyers find in the pit next morning. +</P> + +<P> +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 2.—This day found the four hard at work at an early +hour, and words will not describe our delight when they hit upon a +"pocket" full of the precious metal. The "pocket" was situated in a dark +corner of the hole, and William was the one whose fossicking-knife +first brought its hidden beauties to light. Nugget after nugget did +that dirty soil give up; by evening they had taken out five +pounds weight of gold. Foolish Richard! we all regretted his absence at +this discovery. +</P> + +<P> +As the next day was the Sabbath, thirty-six hours of suspense must +elapse before we could know whether this was but a passing kindness +from the fickle goddess, or the herald of continued good fortune. +</P> + +<P> +This night, for the first time, we were really in dread of an attack, +though we had kept our success quite secret, not even mentioning it to +our shipmates; nor did we intend to do so until Monday morning, when +our first business would be to mark out three more claims round the +lucky spot, and send our gold down to the escort-office for security. +For the present we were obliged to content ourselves with "planting" +it—that is, burying it in the ground; and not a footstep passed in our +neighbourhood without our imagining ourselves robbed of the precious +treasure, and as it was Saturday night—the noisiest and most riotous at +the diggings—our panics were neither few nor far between. So true it is +that riches entail trouble and anxiety on their possessor. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap08"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter VIII. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +AN ADVENTURE +</H3> + +<P> +SUNDAY 3.—A fine morning. After our usual service Frank, my brother, +and myself, determined on an exploring expedition, and off we went, +leaving the dinner in the charge of the others. We left the busy throng +of the diggers far behind us, and wandered into spots where the sound +of the pick and shovel, or the noise of human traffic, had never +penetrated. The scene and the day were in unison; all was harmonious, +majestic, and serene. Those mighty forests, hushed in a sombre and +awful silence; those ranges of undulating hill and dale never yet +trodden by the foot of man; the soft still air, so still that +it left every leaf unruffled, flung an intensity of awe over our +feelings, and led us from the contemplation of nature to worship +nature's God. +</P> + +<P> +We sat in silence for some while deeply impressed by all around us, +and, whilst still sitting and gazing there, a change almost +imperceptibly came over the face of both earth and sky. The forest +swayed to and fro, a sighing moaning sound was borne upon the wind, and +a noise as of the rush of waters, dark massive clouds rolled over the +sky till the bright blue heavens were completely hidden, and then, ere +we had recovered from our first alarm and bewilderment, the storm in +its unmitigated fury burst upon us. The rain fell in torrents, and we +knew not where to turn. +</P> + +<P> +Taking me between them, they succeeded in reaching an immense shea-oak, +under which we hoped to find some shelter till the violence of the rain +had diminished; nor where we disappointed, though it was long before we +could venture to leave our place of refuge. At length however, we did +so, and endeavoured to find our way back to Eagle Hawk Gully. Hopeless +task! The ground was so slippery, it was as much as we could do +to walk without falling; the mud and dirt clung to our boots, and a +heavy rain beat against our faces and nearly blinded us. +</P> + +<P> +"It is clearing up to windward," observed Frank; "another half-hour and +the rain will be all but over; let us return to our tree again." +</P> + +<P> +We did so. Frank was correct; in less than the time he had specified a +slight drizzling rain was all of the storm that remained. +</P> + +<P> +With much less difficulty we again attempted to return home, but before +very long we made the startling discovery that we had completely lost +our way, and to add to our misfortune the small pocket-compass, which +Frank had brought with him, and which would have now so greatly +assisted us, was missing, most probably dropped from his pocket during +the skirmish to get under shelter. We still wandered along till stopped +by the shades of evening, which came upon us—there is little or no +twilight in Australia. +</P> + +<P> +We seated ourselves upon the trunk of a fallen tree, wet, hungry, and, +worst of all, ignorant of where we were. Shivering with cold, +and our wet garments hanging most uncomfortably around us, we +endeavoured to console one another by reflecting that the next morning +we could not fail to reach our tents. The rain had entirely ceased, and +providentially for us the night was pitch dark—I say providentially, +because after having remained for two hours in this wretched plight a +small light in the distance became suddenly visible to us all, so +distant, that but for the intensity of the darkness it might have +passed unnoticed. "Thank God!" simultaneously burst from our lips. +</P> + +<P> +"Let us hasten there," cried Frank, "a whole night like this may be +your sister's death and would ruin the constitution of a giant." +</P> + +<P> +To this we gladly acceded, and were greatly encouraged by perceiving +that the light remained stationary. But it was a perilous undertaking. +Luckily my brother had managed to get hold of a long stick with which +he sounded the way, for either large stones or water-holes would have +been awkward customers in the dark; wonderful to relate we escaped +both, and when within hailing distance of the light, which we perceived +came from a torch hold by some one, we shouted with all our +remaining strength, but without diminishing our exertions to reach it. +Soon—with feelings that only those who have encountered similar dangers +can understand—answering voices fell upon our ears. Eagerly we pressed +forward, and in the excitement of the moment we relinquished all hold +of one another, and attempted to wade through the mud singly. +</P> + +<P> +"Stop! halt!" shouted more than one stentorian voice; but the warning +came too late. My feet slipped—a sharp pain succeeded by a sudden +chill—a feeling of suffocation—of my head being ready to burst—and I +remembered no more. +</P> + +<P> +When I recovered consciousness it was late in the morning, for the +bright sun shone upon the ground through the crevices of a sail cloth +tent, and so different was all that met my eyes to the dismal scene +through which I had so lately passed, and which yet haunted my memory, +that I felt that sweet feeling of relief which we experience when, +waking from some horrid vision, we become convinced how unsubstantial +are its terrors, and are ready to smile at the pain they excited. +</P> + +<P> +That I was in a strange place became quickly evident, and among the +distant hum of voices which ever and anon broke the silence not one +familiar tone could I recognize. I endeavoured to raise myself so as to +hear more distinctly, and then it was that an acute pain in the ankle +of the right foot, gave me pretty strong evidence as to the reality of +the last night's adventures. I was forced to lie down again, but not +before I had espied a hand-bell which lay within reach on a small +barrel near my bed. Determined as far as possible to fathom the +mystery, I rang a loud peal with it, not doubting but what it would +bring my brother to me. My surprise and delight may be easier imagined +than described, when, as though in obedience to my summons, I saw a +small white hand push aside the canvas at one corner of the tent, and +one of my own sex entered. +</P> + +<P> +She was young and fair; her step was soft and her voice most musically +gentle. Her eyes were a deep blue, and a rich brown was the colour of +her hair, which she wore in very short curls all round her head and +parted on one side, which almost gave her the appearance of a pretty +boy. +</P> + +<P> +These little particulars I noticed afterwards; at that time I only felt +that her gentle voice and kind friendliness of manner inexpressibly +soothed me. +</P> + +<P> +After having bathed my ankle, which I found to be badly sprained and +cut, she related, as far as she was acquainted with them, the events +the previous evening. I learnt that these tents belonged to a party +from England, of one of whom she was the wife, and the tent in which I +lay was her apartment. They had not been long at the diggings, and +preferred the spot where they were to the more frequented parts. +</P> + +<P> +The storm of yesterday had passed over them without doing much damage, +and as their tents were well painted over the tops, they managed to +keep themselves tolerably dry; but later in the evening, owing to the +softness of the ground, one of the side-posts partly gave way, which +aroused them all, and torches were lit, and every one busied in trying +to prop it up till morning. Whilst thus engaged they heard our voices +calling for help. They answered, at the same time getting ready some +more torches before, advancing to meet us, as there were +several pit-holes between us and them. Their call for us to remain +stationary came too late to save me from slipping into one of their +pits, thereby spraining my ankle and otherwise hurting myself, besides +being buried to my forehead in mud and water. The pit was not quite +five feet deep, but, unfortunately for myself in this instance, I +belong to the pocket edition of the feminine sex. They soon extricated +me from this perilous situation, and carried me to their tents, where, +by the assistance of my new friend, I was divested of the mud that +still clung to me, and placed into bed. +</P> + +<P> +Before morning the storm, which we all thought had passed over, burst +forth with redoubled fury; the flashes of lightning were succeeded by +loud peals of thunder, and the rain came splashing down. Their tents +were situated on a slight rise, or they would have run great risk of +being washed away; every hole was filled with water, and the shea-oak, +of whose friendly shelter we had availed ourselves the evening before, +was struck by lightning, shivered into a thousand pieces. After a while +the storm abated, and the warm sun and a drying wind were quickly +removing all traces of it. +</P> + +<P> +Frank and my brother, after an early breakfast, had set out for Eagle +Hawk Gully under the guidance of my fair friend's husband, who knew the +road thither very well; it was only three miles distant. He was to +bring back with him a change of clothing for me, as his wife had +persuaded my brother to leave me in her charge until I had quite +recovered from the effects of the accident, "which he more readily +promised," she observed, "as we are not quite strangers, having met +once before." +</P> + +<P> +This awakened my curiosity, and I would not rest satisfied till fully +acquainted with the how, when, and where. Subsequently she related to +me some portion of the history of her life, which it will be no breach +of confidence to repeat here. +</P> + +<P> +Short as it is, however, it is deserving of another chapter. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap09"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter IX. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HARRIETTE WALTERS +</H3> + +<P> +Harriette Walters had been a wife but twelve months, when the sudden +failure of the house in which her husband was a junior partner involved +them in irretrievable ruin, and threw them almost penniless upon the +world. At this time the commercial advantages of Australia, the opening +it afforded for all classes of men, and above all, its immense mineral +wealth, were the subject of universal attention. Mr. Walters' friends +advised him to emigrate, and the small sum saved from the wreck of +their fortune served to defray the expenses of the journey. Harriette, +sorely against her wishes, remained behind with an old maiden +aunt, until her husband could obtain a home for her in the colonies. +</P> + +<P> +The day of parting arrived; the ship which bore him away disappeared +from her sight, and almost heart-broken she returned to the humble +residence of her sole remaining relative. +</P> + +<P> +Ere she had recovered from the shock occasioned by her husband's +departure, her aged relation died from a sudden attack of illness, and +Harriette was left alone to struggle with her poverty and her grief. +The whole of her aunt's income had been derived from an annuity, which +of course died with her; and her personal property, when sold, realized +not much more than sufficient to pay a few debts and the funeral +expenses; so that when these last sad duties were performed, Harriette +found herself with a few pounds in her pocket, homeless, friendless, +and alone. +</P> + +<P> +Her thoughts turned to the distant land, her husband's home, and every +hope was centred in the one intense desire to join him there. The means +were wanting, she had none from whom she could solicit assistance, but +her determination did not fail. She advertized for a situation +as companion to an invalid, or nurse to young children, during the +voyage to Port Philip, provided her passage-money was paid by her +employer. This she soon obtained. The ship was a fast sailer, the winds +were favourable, and by a strange chance she arrived in Melbourne three +weeks before her husband. This time was a great trial to her. Alone and +unprotected in that strange, rough city, without money, without +friends, she felt truly wretched. It was not a place for a female to be +without a protector, and she knew it, yet protector she had none; even +the family with whom she had come out, had gone many miles up the +country. She possessed little money, lodgings and food were at an awful +price, and employment for a female, except of a rough sort, was not +easily procured. +</P> + +<P> +In this dilemma she took the singular notion into her head of +disguising her sex, and thereby avoiding much of the insult and +annoyance to which an unprotected female would have been liable. Being +of a slight figure, and taking the usual colonial costume—loose +trowsers, a full, blue serge shirt, fastened round the waist by +a leather belt, and a wide-awake—Harriette passed very well for what +she assumed to be—a young lad just arrived from England. She +immediately obtained a light situation near the wharf, where for about +three weeks she worked hard enough at a salary of a pound a week, +board, and permission to sleep in an old tumbledown shed beside the +store. +</P> + +<P> +At last the long looked-for vessel arrived. That must have been a +moment of intense happiness which restored her to her husband's +arms—for him not unmingled with surprise; he could not at first +recognize her in her new garb. She would hear of no further separation, +and when she learnt he had joined a party for the Bendigo diggings, she +positively refused to remain in Melbourne, and she retained her boyish +dress until their arrival at Bendigo. The party her husband belonged to +had two tents, one of which they readily gave up to the married couple, +as they were only too glad to have the company and in-door assistance +of a sensible, active woman during their spell at the diggings. For the +sake of economy, during the time that elapsed before they could +commence their journey up, all of them lived in the tents which +they pitched on a small rise on the south side of the Yarra. Here it +was that our acquaintance first took place; doubtless, my readers will, +long ere this, have recognized in the hospitable gentleman I +encountered there, my friend's husband, and, in the delicate-looking +youth who had so attracted my attention, the fair Harriette herself. +</P> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<P> +But—REVENONS A NOS MOUTONS. +</P> + +<P> +On the third day of my visit I was pronounced convalescent, and that +evening my brother and William came to conduct me back to Eagle Hawk +Gully. It was with no little regret that I bade farewell to my new +friend, and I must confess that the pleasure of her society had for the +time made me quite careless as to the quantity of gold our party might +be taking up during my absence. Whilst walking towards our tents, I +heard the full particulars of their work, which I subjoin, so as to +resume the thread of my DIGGING narrative in a proper manner. +</P> + +<P> +MONDAY.—Much upset by their anxiety occasioned by the non-appearance +the previous evening of Frank, my brother, and myself. The two +former did not reach home till nearly noon, the roads were so heavy. +After dinner all set to work in better spirits; came to the end of the +gold—took out nearly four Pounds weight. +</P> + +<P> +TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY.—Digging various holes in the vicinity of the +lucky spot, but without success. The other party did the same with no +better result. +</P> + +<P> +Such were the tidings that I heard after my three days' absence. +</P> + +<P> +THURSDAY.—To-day was spent in prospecting—that is, searching for a +spot whose geological formation gives some promise of the precious +metal. In the evening, William and Octavius returned with the news that +they had found a place at some, distance from the gully, which they +thought would prove "paying," as they had washed some of the surface +soil, which yielded well. It was arranged that the party be divided +into two, and take alternate days to dig there. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY.—In pursuance of the foregoing plan William and Octavius set +off, carrying a good quantity of dinner and their tools along with +them. They worked hard enough during the day, but only brought +back three pennyweights of gold-dust with them. My brother and Frank +gained a deal more by surface washing at home. +</P> + +<P> +SATURDAY.—Changed hands. Frank and my brother to the new spot, digging. +Octavius and William surface washing. There results were much the same +as the day before. +</P> + +<P> +SUNDAY, OCTOBER 10—We took advantage of the fine weather to pay a visit +to Harriette and her party. We found them in excellent spirits, for at +last they had hit upon a rich vein, which had for three days been +yielding an average of four pounds weight a day, and was not yet +exhausted. I say AT LAST, for I have not before mentioned that they had +never obtained more than an ounce of gold altogether, up to the day I +left them. We were sincerely pleased with their good fortune. Harriette +hoped that soon they might be able to leave this wild sort of life, and +purchase a small farm, and once again have a home of their own. This +could not be done near Melbourne, so they meant to go to South +Australia, where any quantity of land may be bought. In THIS colony no +smaller quantity than a square mile—640 acres—is sold by the +Government in one lot; consequently, those whose capital is unequal to +purchase this, go to some other colony, and there invest the wealth +they have acquired in Victoria. +</P> + +<P> +As we had some idea of leaving Eagle Hawk Gully, I bade Harriette +farewell. We never expected to meet again. It chanced otherwise; but I +must not anticipate. +</P> + +<P> +Monday and Tuesday were most unprofitably passed in digging holes; and +on Tuesday night we determined to leave the Eagle Hawk, and try our +fortune in some of the neighbouring gullies. +</P> + +<P> +Wednesday was a bustling day. We sold our tent, tools, cradle, &c., as +we knew plenty were always to be bought of those who, like ourselves, +were changing their place. Had we known what we were about, we should +never have burdened ourselves by bringing so many goods and chattels a +hundred and twenty miles or more up the country; but "experience +teaches." Having parted with all encumbrances, myself excepted, we +started for the Iron Bark Gully. All the gold had been transmitted by +the escort to Melbourne, and one fine nugget, weighing nearly five +ounces, had been sent to Richard. We could not resist the +pleasure of presenting him with it, although by our rules not entitled +to any of the proceeds. +</P> + +<P> +The following are the rules by which our affairs were regulated. They +were drawn up before leaving Melbourne, and signed by all. Though crude +and imperfect, they were sufficient to preserve complete harmony and +good fellowship between five young men of different character, taste, +and education—a harmony and good fellowship which even Richard's +withdrawal did not interrupt. +</P> + +<P> +The rules were these: +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +1. No one party to be ruler; but every week by turn, one to buy, sell, +take charge of gold, and transact all business matters. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +2. The gold to be divided, and accounts settled every Saturday night. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +3. Any one voluntarily leaving the party, to have one-third of his +original share in the expense of purchasing tent and tools returned to +him, but to have no further claim upon them or upon the gold that may +be found after his withdrawal. Any one dismissed the party for +misconduct, to forfeit all claim upon the joint property. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +4. The party agree to stand by one another in all danger, difficulty, +or illness. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +5. Swearing, gambling, and drinking spirits to be strictly avoided. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +6. Morning service to be read every Sunday morning. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +7. All disputes or appeals from the foregoing rules to be settled by a +majority. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap10"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter X. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +IRONBARK GULLY +</H3> + +<P> +I have said little in description of the Eagle Hawk, for all gullies or +valleys at the diggings bear a strong external resemblance one to +another. This one differed from others only in being much longer and +wider; the sides, as is usually the case in the richest gullies, were +not precipitous, but very gradual; a few mountains closed the +background. The digging was in many places very shallow, and the soil +was sometimes of a clayey description, sometimes very gravelly with +slate bottom, sometimes gravelly with pipeclay bottom, sometimes quite +sandy; in fact, the earth was of all sorts and depths. +</P> + +<P> +At one time there were eight thousand diggers together in Eagle Hawk +Gully. This was some months before we visited it. During the period of +our stay at Bendigo there were not more than a thousand, and fewer +still in the Iron Bark. The reasons for this apparent desertion were +several. +</P> + +<P> +The weather continued wet and uncertain, so that many who had gone down +to Melbourne remained there, not yet considering the ground +sufficiently recovered from the effects of the prolonged wet season, +they had no desire to run the risk of being buried alive in their +holes. Many had gone to the Adelaide diggings, of which further +particulars hereafter, and many more had gone across the country to the +Ovens, or, farther still, to the Sydney diggings themselves. According +to digging parlance, "the Turon was looking up," and Bendigo, Mount +Alexander, and Forest Creek were thinned accordingly. But perhaps the +real cause of their desertion arose from the altered state of the +diggings. Some time since one party netted 900 pounds in three weeks; +100 pounds a week was thought nothing wonderful. Four men found one day +seventy-five pounds weight; another party took from the foot of a tree +gold to the value of 2000 pounds. A friend of mine once met a man whom he +knew returning to Melbourne, walking in dusty rags and dirt behind a dray, +yet carrying with him 1,500 pounds worth of gold. In Peg Leg Gully, fifty +and even eighty pounds weight had been taken from holes only three or four +feet deep. At Forest Creek a hole produced sixty pounds weight in one +day, and forty more the day after. From one of the golden gullies a +party took up the incredible quantity of one hundred and ninety-eight +pounds weight in six weeks. These are but two or three instances out of +the many that occurred to prove the richness of this truly auriferous +spot. The consequence may be easily imagined; thousands flocked to +Bendigo. The "lucky bits" were still as numerous, but being +disseminated among a greater number of diggers, it followed that there +were many more blanks than prizes, and the disappointed multitude were +ready to be off to the first new discovery. Small gains were beneath +their notice. I have often heard the miners say that they would rather +spend their last farthing digging fifty holes, even if they found +nothing in them, than "tamely" earn an ounce a day by washing +the surface soil; on the same principle, I suppose, that a gambler +would throw up a small but certain income to be earned by his own +industry, for the uncertain profits of the cue or dice. +</P> + +<P> +For ourselves, we had nothing to complain about. During the short space +of time that we had been at Eagle Hawk Gully, we had done as well as +one in fifty, and might therefore be classed among the lucky diggers; +but "the more people have, the more they want;" and although the many +pounds weight of the precious metal that our party had "taken up" gave, +when divided, a good round sum a-piece, the avaricious creatures bore +the want of success that followed more unphilosophically than they had +done before the rich "pocketful" of gold had made its appearance. They +would dig none but shallow holes, and a sort of gambling manner of +setting to work replaced the active perseverance they had at first +displayed. +</P> + +<P> +Some days before we left, Eagle Hawk Gully had been condemned as a +"worthless place," and a change decided on. The when and the +where were fixed much in the following manner: +</P> + +<P> +"I say, mates," observed William on the evening of the Sunday on which +I had paid my last visit to Harriette, "I say, mates, nice pickings a +man got last week in the Iron Bark—only twenty pounds weight out of one +hole; that's all." +</P> + +<P> +"Think it's true?" said Octavius, quietly. +</P> + +<P> +"Of course; likely enough. I propose we pack up our traps, and honour +this said gully with our presence forthwith." +</P> + +<P> +"Let's inquire first," put in Frank; "it's foolish to change good +quarters on such slight grounds." +</P> + +<P> +"Good quarters! slight grounds!" cried William; "what next? what would +you have? Good quarters! yes, as far as diggings concerned—whether you +find anything for your digging is another matter. Slight grounds, +indeed! twenty pounds weight in one day! Yes, we ought to inquire; +you're right there, old boy, and the proper place to commence our +inquiries is at the gully itself. Let's be off tomorrow." +</P> + +<P> +"Wait two days longer," said Octavius "and I am agreeable." +</P> + +<P> +And this, after a little chaffing between the impatient William and his +more business-like comrades, was satisfactorily arranged. +</P> + +<P> +Behold us then, on Wednesday the 13th, after having sold all our goods +that were saleable, making our way to the Iron Bark Gully. William +enacted the part of auctioneer, which he did in a manner most +satisfactory to himself, and amusing to his audience; but the things +sold very badly, so many were doing the same. The tents fetched only a +few shillings each, and the tools, cradles, &c., EN MASSE, were knocked +down for half a sovereign. +</P> + +<P> +The morning was rather cloudy, which made our pedestrian mode of +travelling not so fatiguing as it might have been, had the sun in true +colonial strength been shining upon us. This was very fortunately not +the case, for we more than once mistook our way, and made a long walk +out of a short one—quite a work of supererogation—for the roads were +heavy and tiring enough without adding an extra quantity of them. +</P> + +<P> +We passed in the close neighbourhood of Sailor's, Californian, +American, Long, and Piccaninny Gullies before reaching our destination. +Most of these gullies are considered ransacked, but a very fair amount +of gold-dust may be obtained in either by the new comer by tin-dish +fossicking in deserted holes. These deserted gullies, as they are +called, contained in each no trifling population, and looked full +enough for comfortable working. What must they have resembled the +summer previous, when some hundreds of people leaving a flat or gully +was but as a handful of sand from the sea-shore! +</P> + +<P> +Before evening we arrived at the Iron Bark. This gully takes its name +from the splendid trees with which it abounds; and their immense +height, their fluted trunks and massive branches gave them a most +majestic appearance. We paused beneath one in a more secluded part, and +there determined to fix our quarters for the night. The heavy "swags" +were flung upon the ground, and the construction of something +resembling a tent gave them plenty to do; the tomahawks, which they +carried in their belts, were put into immediate requisition, and some +branches of the trees were soon formed into rough tent-poles. The tent, +however, though perhaps as good as could be expected, was +nothing very wonderful after all, being made only of some of the +blankets which our party had brought in their swags. Beneath it I +reposed very comfortably; and, thanks to my fatiguing walk, slept as +soundly as I could possibly have done beneath the roof of a palace. The +four gentlemen wrapped themselves in their blankets, and laid down to +rest upon the ground beside the fire; their only shelter was the +foliage of the friendly tree which spread its branches high above our +heads. +</P> + +<P> +Next morning William was for settling ourselves in the gully. He wanted +tents, tools, &c., purchased, but by dint of much talking and +reasoning, we persuaded him first to look well about, and judge from +the success of others whether we were likely to do any good by stopping +there. We soon heard the history of the "twenty-pound weight" story. As +Frank and Octavius had at once surmised, it originated in a party who +were desirous to sell their claims and baggage before starting for +Melbourne. I believe they succeeded—there are always plenty of "new +chums" to be caught and taken in—and the report had caused a slight +rush of diggers, old and new, to the gully. Many of these +diggers had again departed, others stayed to give the place a trial; we +were not among the latter. The statements of those who were still +working were anything but satisfactory, and we were all inclined to +push on to Forest Creek. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile, it is Thursday afternoon. All but Frank appear disposed for +a siesta; he alone seems determined on a walk. I offer myself and am +accepted as a companion, and off we go together to explore this new +locality. +</P> + +<P> +We proceeded up the gully. Deserted holes there were in numbers, many a +great depth, and must have cost a vast amount of manual labour. In some +places the diggers were hard at work, and the blows of the pick, the +splash of water, and the rocking of the cradle made the diggings seem +themselves again. There were several women about, who appeared to take +as active an interest in the work as their "better halves." They may +often be seen cradling with an infant in their arms. A man and a cart +preceeded us up the gully. Every now and again he shouted out in a +stentorian voice that made the welkin ring; and the burden of his cry +was this: +</P> + +<P> +"'Ere's happles, happles, Vandemonian happles, and them as dislikes the +hiland needn't heat them." +</P> + +<P> +The admirers of the fertile island must have been very numerous, for +his customers soon made his pippins disappear. +</P> + +<P> +We passed a butcher's shop, or rather tent, which formed a curious +spectacle. The animals, cut into halves or quarters, were hung round; +no small joints there—half a sheep or none; heads, feet, and skins were +lying about for any one to have for the trouble of picking up, and a +quantity of goods of all sorts and sizes, gridirons, saucepans, +cradles, empty tea-chests, were lying scattered around in all +directions ticketed "for sale." We quickly went on, for it was not a +particularly pleasant sight, and at some distance perceived a quiet +little nook rather out of the road, in which was one solitary tent. We +hastened our steps, and advanced nearer, when we perceived that the +tent was made of a large blanket suspended over a rope, which was tied +from one tree to another. The blanket was fastened into the ground by +large wooden pegs. Near to the opening of the tent, upon a piece of +rock, sat a little girl of about ten years old. By her side was +a quantity of the coarse green gauze of which the diggers' veils are +made. She was working at this so industriously, and her little head was +bent so fixedly over her fingers that she did not notice our approach. +We stood for some minutes silently watching her, till Frank, wishing to +see more of her countenance, clapped his hands noisily together for the +purpose of rousing her. +</P> + +<P> +She started, and looked up. What a volume of sorrow and of suffering +did those pale features speak! +</P> + +<P> +Suddenly a look of pleasure flashed over her countenance. She sprang +from her seat, and advancing towards Frank, exclaimed: +</P> + +<P> +"Maybe you'll be wanting a veil, Sir. I've plenty nice ones, stronger, +better, and cheaper than you'll get at the store. Summer dust's coming, +Sir. You'll want one, won't you? I havn't sold one this week," she +added, almost imploringly, perceiving what she fancied a "no-customer" +look in his face. +</P> + +<P> +"I'll have one, little girl," he answered in a kindly tone, "and what +price is it to be?" +</P> + +<P> +"Eighteen pence, Sir, if you'd please be so good." +</P> + +<P> +Frank put the money into her hand, but returned the veil. This action +seemed not quite to satisfy her; either she did not comprehend what he +meant, or it hurt her self-pride, for she said quickly: +</P> + +<P> +"I havn't only green veils—p'raps you'd like some candles better—I +makes them too." +</P> + +<P> +"YOU make them?" said Frank, laughing as he glanced at the little hands +that were still holding the veil for his acceptance. "YOU make them? +Your mother makes the candles, you mean." +</P> + +<P> +"I have no mother now," said she, with an expression of real melancholy +in her countenance and voice. "I makes the candles and the veils, and +the diggers they buys them of me, cos grandfather's ill, and got nobody +to work for him but me." +</P> + +<P> +"Where do you and your grandfather live?" I asked. "In there?" pointing +to the blanket tent. +</P> + +<P> +She nodded her head, adding in a lower tone: +</P> + +<P> +"He's asleep now. He sleeps more than he did. He's killed hisself +digging for the gold, and he never got none, and he says 'he'll +dig till he dies.'" +</P> + +<P> +"Dig till he dies." Fit motto of many a disappointed gold-seeker, the +finale of many a broken up, desolated home, the last dying words of +many a husband, far away from wife or kindred, with no loved ones near +to soothe his departing moments—no better burial—place than the very +hole, perchance, in which his last earthly labours were spent. These +were some of the thoughts that rapidly chased one another in my mind as +the sad words and still sadder tone fell upon my ear. +</P> + +<P> +I was roused by hearing Frank's voice in inquiry as to how she made her +candles, and she answered all our questions with a child-like NAIVETE, +peculiarly her own. She told us how she boiled down the fat—how once it +had caught fire and burnt her severely, and there was the scar still +showing on her brown little arm—then how she poured the hot fat into, +the tin mould, first fastening in the wicks, then shut up the mould and +left it to grow cold as quickly as it would; all this, and many other +particulars which I have long since forgotten, she told us; and +little by little we learnt too her own history. +</P> + +<P> +Father, mother, grandfather, and herself had all come to the diggings +the summer before. Her father met with a severe accident in digging, +and returned to Melbourne. He returned only to die, and his wife soon +followed him to the grave. Having no other friend or relative in the +colonies, the child had been left with her aged grandfather, who +appeared as infatuated with the gold-fields as a more hale and younger +man. His strength and health were rapidly failing, yet he still dug on. +"We shall be rich, and Jessie a fine lady before I die," was ever his +promise to her, and that at times when they were almost wanting food. +</P> + +<P> +It was with no idle curiosity that we listened to her; none could help +feeling deeply interested in the energetic, unselfish, orphan girl. She +was not beautiful, nor was she fair—she had none of those childish +graces which usually attract so much attention to children of her age; +her eyes were heavy and bloodshot (with work, weeping, cold, and +hunger) except when she spoke of her sick grandfather, and then they +disclosed a world of tenderness; her hair hung matted round her +head; her cheek was wan and sallow; her dress was ill-made and +threadbare; yet even thus, few that had once looked at her but would +wish to look again. There was an indescribable sweetness about the +mouth; the voice was low and musical; the well-shaped head was firmly +set upon her shoulders; a fine open forehead surmounted those drooping +eyes; there was almost a dash of independence; a "little woman" manner +about her that made one imperceptibly forget how young she was in +years. +</P> + +<P> +A slight noise in the tent—a gentle moan. +</P> + +<P> +"He's waked; I must go to him, and," in a lower, almost a deprecating +tone, "he doesn't like to hear stranger folks about." +</P> + +<P> +We cheerfully complied with the hint and departed, Frank first putting +some money into her hand, and promising to call again for the candles +and veils she seemed quite anxious we should take in return. +</P> + +<P> +Our thoughts were as busy as our tongues were silent, during the time +that elapsed before we reached home. When we entered, we found a +discussion going on, and words were running high. My brother and +Octavius were for going somewhere to work, not idle about as +they were doing now; William wanted to go for a "pleasure trip" to +Forest Creek, and then return to Melbourne for a change. Frank listened +to it all for some minutes, and then made a speech, the longest I ever +heard from him, of which I will repeat portions, as it will explain our +future movements. +</P> + +<P> +"This morning, when going down the gully, I met the person whom we +bought the dray-horses of in Melbourne. I asked him how he was doing, +and he answered, 'badly enough; but a friend's just received accounts +of some new diggings out Albury way, and there I mean to go.' He showed +me also a letter he had received from a party in Melbourne, who were +going there. From these accounts, gold is very plentiful at this spot, +and I for one think we may as well try our fortune in this new place, +as anywhere else. The route is partly along the Sydney road, which is +good, but it is altogether a journey of two hundred miles. I would +therefore propose (turning to my brother), that we proceed first to +Melbourne, where you can leave your sister, and we can then start for +the Ovens; and as provisions are at an exorbitant price there, +we might risk a little money in taking up a dray-full of goods as +before. And as we may never chance to be in this part of Victoria +again, I vote that we take William's 'pleasure trip' to Forest Creek, +stop there a few days, and then to Melbourne." +</P> + +<P> +This plan was adopted. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY MORNING.—Frank stole out early after breakfast, for a visit to +little Jessie. I learnt the full particulars afterwards, and therefore +will relate them as they occurred, as though myself present. He did not +find her sitting outside the tent as before, and hesitated whether to +remain or go away, when a low moaning inside determined him to enter. +He pushed aside the blanket, and saw her lying upon an old mattress on +the ground; beside her was a dark object, which he could not at first +distinguish plainly. It was her grandfather, and he was dead. The +moaning came from the living orphan, and piteous it was to hear her. It +took Frank but a few minutes to ascertain all this, and then he gently +let down the blanket, and hastened to the butcher's shop I have already +mentioned. He learnt all that there was to know: that she had no +friends, no relatives, and that nothing but her own labour, and +the kindness of others, had kept them from starvation through the +winter. Frank left a small sum in the butcher's hands, to have the old +man buried, as best could be, in so wild and unnatural a place, and +then returned to the mourning child. When he looked in, she was lying +silent and senseless beside the corpse. A gentle breathing—a slight +heaving of the chest, was all that distinguished the living from the +dead. Carefully taking her in his arms, he carried her to our tent. As +I saw him thus approaching, an idea of the truth flashed across me. +Frank brought her inside, and laid her upon the ground—the only +resting-place we had for her. She soon opened her eyes, the quick +transition through the air had assisted in reviving her, and then I +could tell that the whole sad truth returned fresh to her recollection. +She sat up, resting her head upon her open hands, whilst her eyes were +fixed sullenly, almost doggedly, upon the ground. Our attempts at +consolation seemed useless. Frank and I glanced at one another. "Tell +us how it happened," said he gently. +</P> + +<P> +Jessie made no answer. She seemed like one who heard not. +</P> + +<P> +"It must have been through some great carelessness—some neglect," +pursued Frank, laying a strong emphasis on the last word. +</P> + +<P> +This effectually roused her. +</P> + +<P> +"I NEVER left him—I NEVER neglected him. When I waked in the morning I +thought him asleep. I made my fire. I crept softly about to make his +gruel for breakfast, and I took it him, and found him dead—dead," and +she burst into a passion of tears. +</P> + +<P> +Frank's pretended insinuation had done her good; and now that her grief +found its natural vent, her mind became calmer, and exhausted with +sorrow, she fell into a soothing slumber. +</P> + +<P> +We had prepared to start before noon, but this incident delayed us a +little. When Jessie awoke, she seemed to feel intuitively that Frank +was her best friend, for she kept beside him during our hasty dinner, +and retained his hand during the walk. There was a pleasant breeze, and +we did not feel over fatigued when, after having walked about eight +miles, we sat down beneath a most magnificent gum tree, more +than a hundred feet high. Frank very wisely made Jessie bestir herself, +and assist in our preparations. She collected dry sticks for a fire, +went with him to a small creek near for a supply of water; and so well +did he succeed, that for a while she nearly forgot her troubles, and +could almost smile at some of William's gay sallies. +</P> + +<P> +Next morning, very early, breakfast rapidly disappeared, and we were +marching onwards. An empty cart, drawn by a stout horse, passed us. +</P> + +<P> +Frank glanced at the pale little child beside him. "Where to?" cried +he. +</P> + +<P> +"Forest Creek." +</P> + +<P> +"Take us for what?" +</P> + +<P> +"A canary a-piece." +</P> + +<P> +"Agreed." And we gladly sprung in. For the sake of the uninitiated, I +must explain that, in digger's slang, a "canary" and half-a-sovereign +are synonymous. +</P> + +<P> +We passed the "Porcupine Inn." We halted at noon, dined, and about two +hours after sighted the Commissioners' tent. In a few minutes the cart +stopped. +</P> + +<P> +"Can't take yer not no further. If the master seed yer, I'd cotch it +for taking yer at all." +</P> + +<P> +We paid him and alighted. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap11"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XI. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +FOREST CREEK +</H3> + +<P> +In my last chapter we were left standing not far from the +Commissioners' tent, Forest Creek, at about three o'clock in the +afternoon of Saturday, the 16th. An air of quiet prevailed, and made +the scene unlike any other we had as yet viewed at the diggings. It was +the middle of the month; here and there a stray applicant for a licence +might make his appearance, but the body of the diggers had done so long +before, and were disseminated over the creek digging, washing, or +cradling, as the case might be, but here at least was quiet. To the +right of the Licensing Commissioners' tent was a large one +appropriated to receiving the gold to be forwarded to Melbourne by the +Government escort. There were a number of police and pensioners about. +</P> + +<P> +Not many months ago, the scarcity of these at the diggings had +prevented the better class of diggers from carrying on their operations +with any degree of comfort, or feeling that their lives and property +were secure. But this was now altered; large bodies of police were +placed on duty, and wooden buildings erected in various parts of the +diggings for their accommodation. Assistant Commissioners (who were +also magistrates) had been appointed, and large bodies of pensioners +enrolled as police, and acting under their orders. Roads were also +being made in all directions, thereby greatly facilitating +intercommunication. +</P> + +<P> +But I must not forget that we are standing looking about us without +exactly knowing where to turn. Suddenly William started off like a shot +in pursuit of a man a little way from us. We could not at first guess +who it was, for in the diggers' dress all men look like so many +brothers; but as we approached nearer we recognised our late captain, +Gregory. +</P> + +<P> +"Well, old fellow, and where did you spring from?" was Frank's +salutation. "I thought you were stuck fast in the Eagle Hawk." +</P> + +<P> +"I may say the same," said Gregory, smiling. "How got you here?" +</P> + +<P> +This was soon told, and our present dilemma was not left unmentioned. +</P> + +<P> +"A friend in need is a friend indeed," says the proverb, and William +echoed it, as Gregory very complaisantly informed us that, having just +entered upon a store not far distant, he would be delighted to give us +a shelter for a few nights. This we gladly accepted, and were soon +comfortably domiciled beneath a bark and canvas tent adjoining his +store. Here we supped, after which Gregory left us, and returned with +mattresses, blankets, &c., which he placed on the ground, whilst he +coolly ordered the gentlemen to prepare to take their departure, he +himself presently setting them the example. +</P> + +<P> +"I'm certain sure the young leddy's tired," said he; "and that little +lassie there (pointing to Jessie) looks as pale and as wizened as an +old woman of seventy—the sooner they gets to sleep the better." +</P> + +<P> +We followed the kindly hint, and Jessie and myself were soon fast +asleep in spite of the din close beside us. It was Saturday night, and +the store was full; but the Babel-like sounds disturbed us not, and we +neither of us woke till morning. +</P> + +<P> +It was Sunday. The day was fine, and we strolled here and there, +wandering a good way from Gregory's store. As we returned, we passed +near the scene of the monster meeting of 1851. The following account of +it is so correct, that I cannot do better than transcribe it. +</P> + +<P> +"The exceeding richness of the Mount Alexander diggings, and +extraordinary success of many of the miners, led the Government to +issue a proclamation, raising the licence from thirty shillings to +three pounds. As soon as these intentions became known, a public +meeting of all the miners was convened, and took place on the 15th of +December, 1851. This resolve of the Governor and Executive Council was +injudicious, since, in New South Wales, the Government proposed to +reduce the fee to 15s.; and among the miners in Victoria, +dissatisfaction was rife, on account of the apparent disregard by the +Government of the wants and wishes of the people engaged in the +gold diggings, and because of the absence of all police protection, +while there appeared to be no effort made to remedy this defect. +Indignation was, therefore, unequivocally expressed at the several +diggings' meetings which were held, and at which it was resolved to +hold a monster meeting. The 'Old Shepherd's Hut,' an out station of Dr. +Barker's, and very near the Commissioners' tent, was the scene chosen +for this display. For miles around work ceased, cradles were hushed, +and, the diggers, anxious to show their determination, assembled in +crowds, swarming from every creek, gully, hill, and dale, even from the +distant Bendigo, twenty miles away. They felt that if they tamely +allowed the Government to charge 3 pounds one month, the licensing fee +might be increased to 6 pounds the next; and by such a system of +oppression, the diggers' vocation would be suspended. +</P> + +<P> +"It has been computed that from fifteen to twenty thousand persons were +on the ground during the time of the meeting. Hundreds, who came and +heard, gave place to the coming multitude, satisfied with having +attended to countenance the proceedings. The meeting ultimately +dispersed quietly, thereby disappointing the anticipations of those who +expected, perhaps even desired, a turbulent termination. The majority +determined to resist any attempt to enforce this measure, and to pay +NOTHING; but, happily, they were not reduced to this extremity, since +his Excellency wisely gave notice that no change would be made in the +amount demanded for licence." +</P> + +<P> +The trees up which the diggers had climbed during the meeting are still +pointed out. +</P> + +<P> +The "Old Shepherd's Hut" was standing. It seemed a most commodious +little building compared to the insecure shelter of' a digger's tent. +The sides of the hut were formed of slabs, which were made mostly from +the stringy bark,—a tree that splits easily—the roof was composed of +the bark from the same tree; the chimney was of stones mortared +together with mud. This is the general style of building for shepherds' +huts in the bush. As we passed it I could not but mentally contrast the +scene that took place there on the important day of the monster +meeting, to the deep tranquillity that must have reigned around +the spot for centuries before the discovery of gold drew multitudes to +the place. +</P> + +<P> +The trees in this neighbourhood are mostly stringy bark; almost all are +peeled of their covering, as many diggers, particularly those who have +their families with them, keep much to one part, and think it, +therefore, no waste of time or labour to erect a hut, instead of living +in a comfortless tent. +</P> + +<P> +On Monday morning we determined to pursue our travels, and meant that +day to pay a flying, visit to Fryer's Creek. It was a lovely morning, +and we set out in high spirits. A heavy rain during the night had well +laid the dust. On our way we took a peep at several flats and gullies, +many of which looked very picturesque, particularly one called Specimen +Gully, which was but thinly inhabited. +</P> + +<P> +We had hardly reached Fryer's Creek itself when we saw a vast concourse +of people gathered together. Frank and my brother remained with me at a +little distance, whilst Octavius and William went to learn the occasion +of this commotion. It arose from an awful accident which had just +occurred. +</P> + +<P> +Three brothers were working in a claim beside the stream, some way +apart from the other diggers. The heavy rain during the night had +raised the water, and the ground between the hole where they were +working and the Creek, had given way imperceptibly UNDERNEATH. One +brother, who was early in the hole at work, fancied that the water at +the bottom was gradually rising above his knees; he shouted to his +comrades, but unfortunately they had gone, one, one way, one, another, +in quest of something, and it was some minutes ere they returned. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile the water in the hole was slowly but surely rising, and the +slippery sides which were several feet high defied him to extricate +himself. His cries for help became louder—he was heard, and his +brothers and some neighbours hastened to his assistance. Ropes were +procured after some further delay, and thrown to the unhappy man—but +it was too late. None dared approach very near, for the ground was like +a bog, and might at any moment give way beneath their feet; the water +was nearly level with the top of the hole, and all hope of saving him +was gone. The brothers had often been warned of the danger they +were running. +</P> + +<P> +Shuddering at the thoughts of this awful death we turned away, but no +change of scene could dissipate it from our minds—the remembrance of +it haunted me for many a night. +</P> + +<P> +Jessie seemed pleased to see us on our return—we had left her behind +with Gregory to his great delight—we abstained from mentioning before +her the fearful accident we had but witnessed. +</P> + +<P> +That evening we wandered about Forest Creek. We had not gone far before +a digger with a pistol in his hand shot by us; he was followed by an +immense mob, hooting, yelling, and screaming, as only a mob at the +diggings can. It was in full pursuit, and we turned aside only in time +to prevent ourselves from being knocked down in the confusion. +</P> + +<P> +"Stop him—stop him," was the cry. He was captured, and the cry changed +to, "String him up—string him up—it's useless taking him to the +police-office." +</P> + +<P> +"What has he done?" asked my brother of a quiet by-stander. +</P> + +<P> +"Shot a man in a quarrel at a grogshop." +</P> + +<P> +"String him up—string him up—confront him with the body," vociferated +the mob. +</P> + +<P> +At this moment the firmly-secured and well-guarded culprit passed by, to +be confronted with the dead body of his adversary. No sooner did he +come into his presence than the CI-DEVANT corpse found his feet, +"showed fight," and roared out, "Come on," with a most unghostlike +vehemence. The fury of the mob cooled down; the people thought the man +had been murdered, whereas the shot, fortunately for both, had glanced +over the forehead without doing any serious injury. Taking advantage of +this lull, the fugitive declared that the wounded man had been robbing +him. This turned the tables, and, inspired by the hootings of the now +indignant mob, the "dead man" took to his heels and disappeared. +</P> + +<P> +The diggers in Pennyweight Flat, Nicholson's Gully, Lever Flat, Dirty +Dick's Gully, Gibson's Flat, at the mouth of Dingley Dell, and in +Dingley Dell itself, were tolerably contented with their gains, +although in many instances, the parties who were digging in the +centre of the gullies, or what is called "the slip," experienced +considerable trouble in bailing the water out of their holes. +</P> + +<P> +Some of the names given to the spots about Forest Creek are anything +but euphonious. Dingley Dell is, however, an exception, and sounds +quite musical compared to Dirty Dick's Gully. The former name was given +to the place by a gentleman from Adelaide, and was suggested by the +perpetual tinkling of the bullock's bells, it being a favourite camping +place for bullock drivers, offering, as it did, an excellent supply of +both wood, water, and food for their cattle. From whom the latter +inelegant name originated I cannot precisely tell—but there are plenty +of "dirty Dicks" all over the diggings. +</P> + +<P> +The current prices of this date at Forest Creek were as follows: +flour, 9 to 10 pounds per hundred-weight; sugar, 1s. 6d. a pound, +very scarce; tea, 3s.; rice, 1s.; coffee, 3s.; tobacco, 8s.; cheese, +3s.; butter, 4s.; honey, 3s. 6d.; candles, 1s. 6d; currants, 1s. 6d., +very scarce; raisins, 1s. 6d.; figs, 2s. 6d.; salt, 1s. 6d. Picks, spades, +and tin dishes, 10s. each. Gold 64s. per ounce. +</P> + +<P> +TUESDAY, 19.—Before breakfast we were busily employed in packing the +"swags" when Octavius suddenly dropped the strap he held in his hand +for that purpose, and darted into the store. Thinking that we had +omitted something which he went to fetch, we continued our work. When +everything was ready and the last strap in its place, we again thought +of our absent comrade, making all sorts of surmises regarding his +disappearance, when, just as Frank was going after him, in he walked, +accompanied by a stranger whom he introduced as his uncle. This +surprised us, as we were ignorant of his having any relatives in the +colonies. He then explained that a younger brother of his father's had +about eight years ago gone to South Australia, and that never having +heard of him for some years they had mourned him as dead. After many +adventures he had taken a fancy to the diggings, and had just come from +Melbourne with a dray full of goods. He went to Gregory's store to +dispose of them. Octavius had heard them in conversation +together, and had mistaken his uncle's for his father's voice. Hence +the precipitation of his exit. The uncle was a tall sunburnt man, who +looked well-inured to hardship and fatigue. He stayed and took +breakfast with us, and then having satisfactorily arranged his business +with Gregory, and emptied his dray, he obligingly offered to convey +Jessie and myself to Melbourne in it. Accordingly after dinner we all +started together. +</P> + +<P> +Our new companion was a most agreeable person, and his knowledge of the +colonies was extensive. With anecdotes of the bush, the mines, and the +town, he made the journey pass most pleasantly. Before evening we +reached the Golden Point near Mount Alexander. This term of "Golden" +has been applied to a great many spots where the deposits have been +richer than, usual. There was a Golden Point at Ballarat, and when the +report of the Alexander diggings drew the people from there, they +carried the name with them, and applied it to this portion of the +mount. To the left of the Point, which was still full of labourers, was +the store of Mr. Black, with the Union-Jack flying above it. It is a +most noted store, and at one time when certain delicacies were +not to be had in Melbourne they were comparatively cheap here. +</P> + +<P> +We passed by this busy spot and encamped at sunset at the foot of Mount +Alexander. It was a lovely evening and our eyes were feasted by a Most +glorious sight. All the trees of the forest gradually faded away in the +darkness, but beyond them, and through them were glimpses of the +granite-like walls of the mount, brilliantly shining in and reflecting +the last glowing rays of the setting sun. Some of the gorgeous scenes +of fairy-land seemed before us—we could have imagined that we were +approaching by night some illuminated, some enchanted castle. +</P> + +<P> +That evening we sat late round our fire listening to the history which +the uncle of Octavius related of some of his adventures in South +Australia. The posts he had filled formed a curious medley of +occupations, and I almost forget the routine in which they followed one +another, but I will endeavour to relate his story as much as possible +in his own words. +</P> + +<P> +"When I started from England, after having paid passage-money, &c., I +found myself with about 200 pounds ready money in my purse—it was all +I had to expect, and I determined to be very careful of it; but by a +young man of five-and-twenty these resolutions, like lady's promises, +are made to be broken. When I landed in Adelaide with my money in my +pocket—minus a few pounds I had lost at whist and cribbage on board +ship—I made my way to the best inn, where I stayed some days, and ran +up rather a longish bill. Then I wanted to see the country, which I +found impossible without a horse, so bought one, and rode about to the +various stations, where I was generally hospitably received, and thus +passed a few months very pleasantly, only my purse was running low. I +sold the horse, then my watch, and spent the money. When that was gone, +I thought of the letters of introduction I possessed. The first that +came to hand was directed to a Wesleyan minister. I called there, +looking as sanctimonious as I could. He heard my story, advised me to +go to chapel regularly, 'And for your temporal wants,' said he, 'the +Lord will provide.' I thanked him, and bowed myself off. +</P> + +<P> +"My first act was to burn my packet of introductory letters, my +next was to engage myself to a stock-holder at 15s. a week and my +rations. He was going up to his station at once, and I accompanied him. +We travelled for about two hundred miles through a most beautiful +country before we reached his home. His house was, in my ideas, a +comical-looking affair—made of split logs of wood, with a bark roof, +and a barrel stuck on the top of the roof at one end by way of a +chimney-pot. His wife, a pale sickly little woman, seemed pleased to +see us, for she had been much alarmed by the natives, who were rather +numerous about the neighbourhood. There was only a young lad, and an +old shepherd and his wife upon the station, besides herself. Before I +had been there six weeks she died, and her new-born little baby died +too; there was not a doctor for miles, and the shepherd's wife was +worse than useless. I believe this often happens in the bush—it's not a +place for woman-folks. +</P> + +<P> +"I was here eighteen months—it was a wild sort of life, and just suited +my fancy; but when I found I had some money to receive, I thought a +spree in town would be a nice change, so off I marched. My spree lasted +as long as my money, and then I went as barman to a public-house at +Clare, some way up the country—here I got better wages and better board, +and stopped about half-a-year. Then I turned brewer's drayman, and +delivered casks of good Australian ale about Adelaide for 30s. a week. +The brewer failed, and I joined in a speculation with an apple dealer +to cart a lot up to the Kapunda copper mines. That paid well. I stopped +up there as overseer over four-and-twenty bullock-drays. Well, winter +came, and I had little to do, though I drew my 30s. a week regularly +enough, when the directors wanted a contract for putting the small +copper-dust into bags, and sewing them up. I offered to do the job at +2d. a bag, and could get through a hundred and fifty a day. How much +is that? Oh! 12s. 6d. a-piece. I forgot to tell you I'd a mate at the +work. That was good earnings in those days; and me and my mate, who +was quite a lad, were making a pretty penny, when some others offered +to do them a halfpenny a bag cheaper. I did the same, and we kept it +to ourselves for about four weeks longer, when a penny a bag was +offered. There was competition for you! This roused my bile—I threw +it up altogether—and off to Adelaide again. Soon spent all my cash, +and went into a ship-chandler's office till they failed; then was clerk +to a butcher, and lost my situation for throwing a quarter of his own +mutton at him in a rage; and then I again turned brewer's man. Whilst +there I heard of the diggings—left the brewer and his casks to look +after themselves, and off on foot to Ballarat. +</P> + +<P> +"Here I found the holes averaging some thirty feet—which was a style of +hard work I didn't quite admire; so hearing of the greater facility of +the Alexander diggings, I went through Bully Rook Forest, and tried my +luck in the Jim Crow Ranges. This paid well; and I bought a dray, and +bring up goods to the stores, which I find easier work, and twice as +profitable as digging. There's my story; and little I thought when I +went into Gregory's store to-day, that I should find my curly-pated +nephew ready to hear it." +</P> + +<P> +Next day we travelled on, and halted near Saw-pit Gully; it was early +in the afternoon, and we took a walk about this most interesting +locality. The earth was torn up everywhere—a few lucky hits +had sufficed to re-collect a good many diggers there, and they were +working vigorously. At dusk the labour ceased—the men returned to +their tents, and for the last time our ears were assailed by the +diggers' usual serenade. Imagine some hundreds of revolvers almost +instantaneously fired—the sound reverberating through the mighty +forests, and echoed far and near—again and again till the last faint +echo died away in the distance. Then a hundred blazing fires burst upon +the sight—around them gathered the rough miners themselves—their +sun-burnt, hair-covered faces illumined by the ruddy glare. Wild songs, +and still wilder bursts of laughter are heard; gradually the flames +sink and disappear, and an oppressive stillness follows (sleep rarely +refuses to visit the diggers' lowly couch), broken only by some +midnight carouser, as he vainly endeavours to find his tent. No fear of +a "peeler" taking him off to a police-station, or of being brought +before a magistrate next morning, and "fined five shillings for being +drunk." +</P> + +<P> +Early on Tuesday morning I gave a parting look to the diggings—our dray +went slowly onwards—a slight turn in the road, and the last +tent has vanished from my sight. "Never," thought I, "shall I look on +such a scene again!" +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap12"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XII. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RETURN TO MELBOURNE +</H3> + +<P> +Before the evening of Wednesday the 20th, we passed through Kyneton, +and found ourselves in the little village of Carlshrue, where we passed +the night. Here is a police-station, a blacksmith's, a few stores and +some cottages, in one of which we obtained a comfortable supper and +beds. A lovely view greeted us at sunrise. Behind us were still +towering the lofty ranges of Mount Alexander, before us was Mount +Macedon and the Black Forest. This mountain, which forms one of what is +called the Macedon range, is to be seen many miles distant, and on a +clear, sunny day, the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which +stands aloof as it were, from the range itself, are distinctly visible +from the flag-staff at Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +We had intended to have stopped for the night in Kyneton, but the +charges there were so enormous that we preferred pushing on and taking +our chance as to the accommodation Carlshrue could afford, nor did we +repent the so doing. +</P> + +<P> +The following are the Kyneton prices. A meal or bed—both bad—4s; a +night's stabling, one pound ten shillings per horse; hay at the rate of +9d. a pound; this is the most exorbitant charge of all. +</P> + +<P> +Hay was somewhere about 20 pounds a ton in Melbourne. The carriage of it +to Kyneton, now that the fine weather was setting in, would not exceed 8 +pounds a ton at the outside, which would come to 28 pounds. The purchaser, +by selling it at Kyneton at the rate of 9d. a pound, or 75 pounds per ton, +cleared a profit of 47 pounds—NOT QUITE 200 PER CENT. If THIS is not +fortune-making, I should like to know what is. It beats the diggings +hollow. +</P> + +<P> +Next morning we looked our last at "sweet Carlshrue," and +having crossed the Five Mile Creek, camped for our mid-day meal beside +the Black Forest. Here a slight discussion arose, as to whether it +would be more advisable to proceed on our journey and camp in the Black +Forest that night, or whether we should remain where we were outside, +and recommence our journey in good time the next morning so as to get +through this most uncomfortable portion of our travels in one day. +Frank and Octavius were for the latter plan, as the best and safest, +but the rest (thinking that, having once travelled through it without +encountering any thing resembling a bushranger, they might safely do so +again) protested against wasting time, and were for entering those dark +shades without further delay. The uncle of Octavius whom, in future, +for the sake of convenience, I shall call Mr. L——, was also of this +mind, and as he was in some sort our leader during the journey, his +advice decided the matter. Danger to him was only a necessary +excitement. He was naturally fearless, and his merry laugh and gay joke +at the expense of the bushranger fearing party gradually dissipated the +unaccountable presentiment of danger which I for one had in no +small degree experienced. +</P> + +<P> +On we went, up hill and down dale, sometimes coming to a more open +piece of ground, but more generally threading our way amid a very maze +of trees, with trunks all black as the ground itself, whilst the dingy +foliage and the few rays of sunshine that lit up those dark, deep +glades served only to heighten the gloominess around. +</P> + +<P> +After walking for about six miles—I preferred that mode of getting +along to the joltings of the dray—we all felt disposed to rest +ourselves. We selected a spot where the trees were less thickly +clustered, and taking the horses out of the dray, tethered them by +strong ropes to some trees near. The dray itself was turned up, and a +blanket thrown over the up-raised shafts formed a most complete and +cosy little tent. +</P> + +<P> +A fire was next kindled, and a kettle full of water (with the tea in +it!) was placed on to boil, some home-made bread, brought from +Carlshrue, was placed upon the ground, and some chops were toasted on +the ends of sticks, which are usually the impromptu toasting-forks of +the bush. The old tin plates and pannicans, not quite so bright as once +upon a time, but showing, despite sundry bruises and scratches, that +they had seen better days, were placed upon the tea-table, which of +course was the ground. Two or three knives and forks were on general +service, and wandered about from hand to hand as occasion required. +Altogether it was a merry, sociable party, and I think I enjoyed that +supper better than any I ever tasted before or since. +</P> + +<P> +"CHACUN A SON GOUT," many a one will say. +</P> + +<P> +The pleasantest moments must come to an end, and so did these. After +having sat up later than usual, Jessie and I retired to our gipsy tent, +leaving our guardian diggers smoking round the fire. They meant to keep +watches during the night to prevent a surprise. +</P> + +<P> +FRIDAY.—We were comfortably seated at our breakfast, discussing a +hundred subjects besides the food before us, when a shrill "coo-ey" +burst through the air; "coo-ey"—"coo-ey" again and again, till the very +trees seemed to echo back the sound. We started to our feet, and, +as if wondering what would come next, looked blankly at each +other, and again the "coo-ey," more energetic still, rang in our ears. +This is the call of the bush, it requires some little skill and +practice, and when given well can be heard a great way off. In such a +place as the Black Forest it could only proceed from some one who had +lost their way, or be a signal of distress from some party in absolute +danger. We again looked from one to the other—it bewildered us; and +again the cry, only more plaintive than before, came to us. +Simultaneously they seized their pistols, and started in the direction +whence the sounds proceeded. They were all too true Englishmen to hear +a fellow-creature in peril and not hasten to their succour. +</P> + +<P> +Jessie and myself could not remain behind alone—it was impossible; we +followed at a little distance, just keeping our comrades in sight. At +last they came to a halt, not knowing where to turn, and we joined +them. Frank gave a "coo-ey," and in about the space of a minute the +words "help, help,—come, come," in scarcely, audible sounds, answered +to the call. We penetrated about thirty yards farther, and a few low +groans directed us to a spot more obscure, if possible, than +the rest. There, firmly bound to two trees close together, were two +men. A thick cord was passed round and round their bodies, arms, and +legs, so as to leave no limb at liberty. They seemed faint and +exhausted at having called so long for help. +</P> + +<P> +It was the work of a moment for our party to fling down their pistols, +take out knives and tomahawks, and commence the work of releasing them +from their bonds. But the cords were knotted and thick, and there +seemed no little labour in accomplishing it. They were also retarded by +the small quantity of light, for, as I said before, it was a dark and +secluded spot. At length one man was released, and so faint and +exhausted was he, from the effects of whatever ill-usage he had +suffered, that, being a tall, powerfully made man, it required the +united strength of both Frank and Mr. L—— to prevent his falling to +the ground. +</P> + +<P> +Jessie and myself were standing a little apart in the shade; we seemed +as if spell-bound by the incident, and incapable of rendering any +assistance. +</P> + +<P> +The second was soon set at liberty, and no sooner did he feel +his hands and feet free from the cords than he gave a loud, shrill +"coo-ey." +</P> + +<P> +A shriek burst from Jessie's lips as, immediately the cry was uttered, +and before any one could, recover from the bewilderment it occasioned, +four well-armed men sprang upon our startled party. +</P> + +<P> +Taken thus at disadvantage, unarmed, their very knives flung down in +their eagerness to untwist the cords, they were soon overpowered. The +wretch who had been reclining in Frank's arms quickly found his feet, +and, ere Frank could recover from his surprise, one heavy blow flung +him to the ground; whilst the other twined his powerful arms round Mr. +L——, and, after a short but sharp struggle, in which he was assisted +by a fellow-villain, succeeded in mastering him. +</P> + +<P> +It was a fearful sight, and I can hardly describe my feelings as I +witnessed it. My brain seemed on fire, the trees appeared to reel +around me, when a cold touch acted as a sudden restorative, and almost +forced a scream from my lips. It was Jessie's hand, cold as marble, +touching mine. We spoke together in a low whisper, and both +seemed inspired by the same thoughts, the same hope. +</P> + +<P> +"I saw a little hill as we came here," said Jessie; "let's try and find +it and look out for help." +</P> + +<P> +I instinctively followed her, and stealthily creeping along, we gained +a small rise of ground which commanded a more extended view than most +places in the Black Forest, and, but for the thickness of the trees, we +could have seen our own camping-place and the part where the ambuscade +had been laid. From sounds of the voices, we could tell that the +ruffians were leading their prisoners to the spot where we had passed +the night, and the most fearful oaths and imprecations could ever and +anon be heard. Well might our hearts beat with apprehension, for it was +known that when disappointed in obtaining the gold they expected, they +vented their rage in torturing their unfortunate victims. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile Jessie seemed listening intently. The time she had spent in +the bush and at the diggings had wonderfully refined her sense of +hearing. Suddenly she gave a shrill "coo-ey." The moment after a shot +was fired in the direction of our late camp. Jessie turned even +paler, but recovering herself, "coo-ey" after "coo-ey" made the echoes +ring. I joined my feeble, efforts to hers; but she was evidently well +used to this peculiar call. On a fine still day, this cry will reach +for full three miles, and we counted upon this fact for obtaining some +assistance. +</P> + +<P> +"Help is coming," said Jessie, in a low voice, and once more with +increasing strength she gave the call. +</P> + +<P> +Footsteps approached nearer and nearer. I looked up, almost expecting +to see those villainous countenances again. +</P> + +<P> +"Women in danger!" shouted a manly voice, and several stalwart figures +bounded to our side. +</P> + +<P> +"Follow, follow!" cried Jessie, rushing forwards. I scarcely remember +everything that occurred, for I was dizzy with excess of pleasure. +There was a short scuffle, shots were fired at retreating bushrangers, +and we saw our friends safe and free. +</P> + +<P> +The whole, matter was then related to our preservers—for such they +were—and I then learnt that when the bushrangers had marched +off our party to the camping-place, they proceeded to overhaul their +pockets, and then bound them securely to some trees, whilst one stood +ready with a pistol to shoot the first that should call for help, and +the others looked over the plunder. This was little enough, for our +travelling money, which was notes, was kept—strange treasury—in the +lining of the body of my dress, and here too were the gold receipts +from the Escort Office. Every night I took out about sufficient to +defray the day's expenses, and this was generally given into Frank's +hands. +</P> + +<P> +Enraged and disappointed, the villains used most frightful language, +accompanied by threats of violence; and the one on guard, irritated +beyond his powers of endurance, fired the pistol in the direction of +William's head. At this moment Jessie's first "coo-ey" was heard: this +startled him, and the shot, from the aim of the pistol being +disarranged, left him unhurt. +</P> + +<P> +"It's that d——d child," muttered one, with a few, additional oaths; +"we'll wring her neck when we've secured the plunder." +</P> + +<P> +One of the ruffians now attempted more persuasive measures, and +addressing Mr. L——, whom I suppose he considered the leader, expended +his powers of persuasion much in the following manner. +</P> + +<P> +"You sees, mate, we risks our lives to get your gold, and have it we +will. Some you've got somewhere or another, for you havn't none on you +got no paper from the Escort—you planted it last night, eh? Jist show +us where, and you shan't be touched at all, nor that little wretch +yonder, what keeps screeching so; but if you don't—" and here his +natural ferocity mastered him, and he wound up with a volley of curses, +in the midst of which our rescuers rushed upon them. +</P> + +<P> +When we came to talk the whole matter over calmly and quietly, no doubt +was left upon our minds, as to the premeditation of the whole affair. +But for the watch kept, the attack would most probably have been made +during the night. +</P> + +<P> +Our timely friends were a party of successful diggers returning, from +work. They too had passed the night in the Black Forest—providently +not very far from us. They accepted our thanks in an off-hand sort of +way, only replying—which was certainly true—"that we would have +done the same for them." It was in endeavouring to assist assumed +sufferers that our party fell into the ambuscade laid for them. +</P> + +<P> +They waited whilst we got the dray and horses ready, and we all +journeyed on together, till the Black Forest was far behind us. We saw +no more of the bushrangers, and encamped that night a few miles beyond +the "Bush Inn." At this inn we parted with our gallant friends. They +were of the jovial sort, and having plenty of gold, were determined on +a spree. We never met them again. +</P> + +<P> +On Saturday we travelled as far as the "Deep Creek Inn." Some distance +before reaching that place, we passed two rival coffee-shops on the +road. We stopped at the first, to know if they had any uncooked or cold +meat to sell, for our provisions were running low. +</P> + +<P> +"Havn't none," said the woman, shaking her head. Then looking hard at +William, and judging from his good-humoured face, that he was a likely +one to do what she wanted, she said to him. "Now, Sir, I'm agoing to ax +a favour of you, and that is to go a little farther down the +road, to the other coffee-tent, and buy for me as much meat as they'll +let you have. They's got plenty, and I've none; and they knows I'll +lose custom by it, so you'll not get it if they twigs (ANGLICE guesses) +you comes from me. You understand, Sir," and she put sovereign into his +hand to pay for it. +</P> + +<P> +Laughing at the comicality of the request, and the thoroughly colonial +coolness of making it, William set off, and presently returned with +nearly half a sheep hanging over his shoulders, and a large joint in +one hand. +</P> + +<P> +"Bless me, what luck!" exclaimed the delighted woman, and loud and +profuse were her thanks. She wanted to cook us a good dinner off the +meat gratis; but this we steadily refused and purchasing enough for the +present, we put our drays again into motion, and a little while after +kindled a fire, and were our own cooks as usual. That night we camped +beside the Deep Creek, about a mile from the "Deep Creek Inn." The +route we were now taking was different to the one we had travelled +going up—it was much more direct. +</P> + +<P> +We remained all Sunday beside the creek, and the day passed quietly and +pleasantly. +</P> + +<P> +On Monday the 25th we were again in motion. We passed the well known +inn of Tulip Wright's. How great a change those few weeks had made! +Winter had given place to summer, for Australia knows no spring. We +walked along the beautiful road to Flemington, gave a look at the +flagstaff and cemetery, turned into Great Bourke Street, halted at the +Post-office, found several letters, and finally stopped opposite the +"Duke of York Hotel," where we dined. +</P> + +<P> +I shall leave myself most comfortably located here, whilst I devote a +chapter or two to other diggings. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap13"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XIII. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BALLARAT +</H3> + +<P> +Ballarat is situated about forty-five miles from Geelong, and +seventy-five nearly west of Melbourne. This was the first discovered +goldfield of any extent in Victoria, and was made known on the 8th of +September, 1851. The rush from Geelong was immense. Shops, stores, +trades, all and everything was deserted; and the press very truly +declared that "Geelong was mad—stark, staring gold-mad." During the +month of September five hundred and thirty-two licences were taken out; +in the month following the number increased to two thousand two hundred +and sixty one! +</P> + +<P> +The usual road to Ballarat is by the Adelaide overland route on the +Gambier Road; but the most preferable is per Geelong. The former route +leads over the Keilor Plains, and through Bacchus Marsh, crossing the +Werribee River in two places. Mount Buninyong then appears in sight of +the well-pleased traveller, and Ballarat is soon reached. +</P> + +<P> +The route VIA Geelong is much quicker, as part of the way is generally +performed by steam at the rate of one pound a-piece. Those who wish to +save their money go to Geelong by land. After leaving Flemington, and +passing the Benevolent Asylum, the Deep Creek is crossed by means of a +punt, and you then come to a dreary waste of land, called Iett's Flat. +Beyond is a steep rise and a barren plain, hardly fit to graze sheep +upon, and at about twenty miles from Melbourne you come to the first +halting house. Some narrow but rapid creeks must be got over, and for +seven miles further you wander along over a dreary sheep-run till +stopped by the Broken River, which derives its name partly from the +nature of its rocky bed, and partly from the native name which has a +similar sound. +</P> + +<P> +This creek is the most steep, rapid, and dangerous on the road, having +no bridge and no properly defined crossing-place or ford, except the +natural rocks about. The bottom is of red sand-stone and rocks of the +same description abut from the sides of the creek, and appear to abound +in the neighbourhood; and all along the plains here and there are +large fragments of sand and lime-stone rocks. Two hundred yards from +the creek is a neat inn after the English style, with a large +sitting-room, a tap, a bar, and a coffee-room. The bed-rooms are so +arranged as to separate nobs from snobs—an arrangement rather +inconsistent in a democratic colony. The inn also affords good stabling +and high charges. Up to this distance on our road there is a scarcity +of wood and springs of water. +</P> + +<P> +We now pass two or three huts, and for twenty miles see nothing to +please the eye, for it is a dead, flat sheep-walk. About seven miles on +the Melbourne side of Geelong, the country assumes a more cheering +appearance—homesteads, gardens, and farms spring up—the roads improve, +and the timber is plentiful and large, consisting of shea-oaks, wattle, +stringy bark, and peppermints. Many of the houses are of a good +size, and chiefly built of stone, some are of wood, and very few of +brick. +</P> + +<P> +Geelong, which is divided into north and south, is bounded by the +Barwin, a river navigable from the bay to the town, and might be +extended further; beautiful valleys well wooded lie beyond. Between the +two townships a park has been reserved, though not yet enclosed; the +timber in it, which is large—consisting principally of white gum and +stringy bark—is not allowed to be cut or injured. There are several +good inns, a court-house, police-station, and corporation offices. +There is also a neat church in the early pointed style, with a +parsonage and schools in the Elizabethan; all are of dark lime-stone, +having a very gloomy appearance, the stones being unworked, except near +the windows; the porches alone slightly ornamented. The road and +pavement are good in the chief streets; there is a large square with a +conduit, which is supplied by an engine from the Barwin. The shops are +large and well furnished, a great many houses are three stories high, +most are two, and very few one. The best part of town is about one +hundred feet above the river. A large timber bridge over the +Ballarat road was washed down last winter. The town is governed by a +mayor and corporation. There is a city and mounted police force, and a +neat police-court. A large and good race-course is situated about +three miles from the town. +</P> + +<P> +As regards scenery, Geelong is far superior to Melbourne, the streets +are better, and so is the society of the place; none of the ruffian +gangs and drunken mobs as seen in Victoria's chief city. There are +various, chapels, schools, markets, banks, and a small gaol. The +harbour is sheltered, but not safe for strangers, as the shoals are +numerous. Geelong is surrounded by little townships. Irish Town, Little +Scotland, and Little London are the principal and to show how +completely the diggings drained both towns and villages of their male +inhabitants, I need only mention that six days after the discovery of +Ballarat, there was only one man left in Little Scotland, and he was a +cripple, compelled NOLENS VOLENS to remain behind. +</P> + +<P> +The road from Geelong to Ballarat is well marked out, so often has it +been trodden; and there are some good inns on the way-side for +the comfort of travellers. On horseback you can go from the town to the +diggings in six or eight hours. +</P> + +<P> +Ballarat is a barren place, the ground is interspersed with rocky +fragments, the creek is small, and good water is rather scarce. In +summer it almost amounts to a drought, and what there is then is +generally brackish or stagnatic. It is necessary never to drink +stagnant water, or that found in holes, without boiling, unless there +are frogs in it, then the water is good; but the diggers usually boil +the water, and a drop of brandy, if they can get it. In passing through +the plains you are sure of finding water near the surface (or by +seeking a few inches) wherever the tea tree grows. +</P> + +<P> +The chief object at the Ballarat diggings is the Commissioners' tent, +which includes the Post-office. There are good police quarters now. The +old lock-up was rather of the primitive order, being the stump of an +old tree, to which the the prisoners were attached by sundry chains, +the handcuff being round one wrist and through a link of the chain. I +believe there is a tent for their accommodation. There are +several doctors about, who, as usual, drive a rare trade. +</P> + +<P> +It is almost impossible to describe accurately the geological features +of the gold diggings at Ballarat. Some of the surface-washing is good, +and sometimes it is only requisite to sink a few feet, perhaps only a +few inches, before finding the ochre-coloured earth (impregnated with +mica and mixed with quartzy fragments), which, when washed, pays +exceedingly well. But more frequently a deep shaft has to be sunk. +</P> + +<P> +Of course the depth of the shafts varies considerably; some are sixty +or even eighty, and some are only ten feet deep. Sometimes after heavy +rains, when the surface soil has been washed from the sides of the +hills, the mica layer is similarly washed down to the valleys and lies +on the original surface-soil. This constitutes the true washing stuff +of the diggings. Often when a man has—to use a digger's +phrase—"bottomed his hole," (that is, cut through the rocky strata, and +arrived at the gold layer), he will find stray indications, but nothing +remunerative, and perchance the very next hole may be the most +profitable on the diggings. Whether there is any geological +rule to be guided by has yet to be proved, at present no old digger +will ever sink below the mica soil, or leave his hole until he arrives +at it, even if he sinks to forty feet. So, therefore, it may be taken +as a general rule, wherever the diggings may be, either in Victoria, +New South Wales, or South Australia, that gold in "working" quantities +lies only where there is found quartz or mica. +</P> + +<P> +Ballarat has had the honour of producing the largest masses of gold yet +discovered. These masses were all excavated from one part of the diggings, +known as Canadian Gully, and were taken out of a bed of quartz, at the +depths of from fifty to sixty-five feet below the surface. The deep +indentures of the nuggets were filled with the quartz. The largest of +these masses weighed one hundred and thirty-four pounds, of which it +was calculated that fully one hundred and twenty-six pounds consisted +of solid gold! +</P> + +<P> +About seven miles to the north of Ballarat, some new diggings called +the Eureka have been discovered, where it appears that, although there +are no immense prizes, there are few blanks, and every one doing well! +</P> + +<P> +In describing the road from Melbourne to Geelong, I have made +mention of the Broken River. A few weeks after my arrival in the +colonies this river was the scene of a sad tragedy. +</P> + +<P> +I give the tale, much in the same words as it was given to me, because +it was one out of many somewhat similar, and may serve to show the +state of morality in Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +The names of the parties are, of course, entirely fictitious. +</P> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<P> +Prettiest among the pretty girls that stood upon the deck as the anchor +of the Government immigrant ship 'Downshire' fell into Hobson's Bay, in +August, 1851, was Mary H——, the heroine of my story. No regret +mingled with the satisfaction that beamed from her large dark eyes, as +their gaze fell on the shores of her new country, for her orphan +brother, the only relative she had left in their own dear Emerald Isle, +was even then preparing to follow her. Nor could she feel sad and +lonely whilst the rich Irish brogue, from a subdued but manly and +well-loved voice, fell softly on her ear, and the gentle +pressure of her hand continually reminded her that she was not alone. +</P> + +<P> +Shipboard is a rare place for match-making, and, somehow or another, +Henry Stephens had contrived to steal away the heart of the 'Downshire' +belle. Prudence, however, compelled our young people to postpone their +marriage, and whilst the good housewife qualities of the one readily +procured her a situation in a highly respectable family in Melbourne, +Henry obtained an appointment in the police force of the same town. +</P> + +<P> +Their united savings soon mounted up, and in a few months the banns +were published, and Christmas-Day fixed on for the wedding. Mary, at +her lover's express desire, quitted her mistress's family to reside +with a widow, a distant relative of his own, from whose house she was +to be married. Delightful to the young people was this short period of +leisure and uninterrupted intercourse, for the gold mania was now +beginning to tell upon the excited imaginations of all, and Henry had +already thrown up his situation; and it was settled their wedding trip +should be to the golden gullies round Mount Buninyong. +</P> + +<P> +And now let me hasten over this portion of my narrative. It is sad to +dwell upon the history of human frailty, or to relate the oft-told tale +of passion and villainy triumphant over virtue. A few days before +Christmas, when the marriage ceremony was to be performed, they +unfortunately spent one evening together alone, and he left her—ruined. +Repentance followed sin, and the intervening time was passed by Mary in +a state of the greatest mental anguish. With what trembling eagerness +did she now look forward to the day which should make her his lawful +wife. +</P> + +<P> +It arrived. Mary and the friends of both stood beside the altar, whilst +he, who should have been there to redeem his pledge and save his victim +from open ruin and disgrace, was far away on the road to Ballarat. +</P> + +<P> +To describe her agony would be impossible. Day after day, week after +week, and no tidings from him came; conscience too acutely accounting +to her for his faithlessness. Then the horrible truth forced itself +upon her, that its consequences would soon too plainly declare her sin +before the world; that upon her innocent offspring would fall a portion +of its mother's shame. +</P> + +<P> +Thus six months stole sorrowfully away, and as yet none had even +conjectured the deep cause she had for misery. Her brother's +non-arrival was also an unceasing source of anxiety, and almost daily +might she have been seen at the Melbourne Post-office, each time to +return more disappointed than before. At length the oft-repeated +inquiry was answered in the affirmative, and eagerly she tore open the +long-anticipated letter. It told her of an unexpected sum of money that +had come into his hands—to them a small fortune—which had detained him +in Ireland. This was read and almost immediately forgotten, as she +learnt that he was arrived in Melbourne, and that only a few streets +now separated them. +</P> + +<P> +She raised her face, flushed and radiant with joyful excitement—her +eyes fell upon him who had so cruelly injured her. The scream that +burst from her lips brought him involuntarily to her side. What will +not a woman forgive where once her heart has been touched—in the double +joy of the moment the past was almost forgotten—together they re-read +the welcome letter, and again he wooed her for his bride. She +consented, and he himself led her to her brother, confessed +their mutual fault, and second preparations for an immediate marriage +were hurriedly made. +</P> + +<P> +Once more at the altar of St. Peter's stood the bridal party, and again +at the appointed hour Stephens was far gone on his second expedition to +the diggings, after having increased (if that was possible) his +previous villainy, by borrowing a large portion of the money before +mentioned from his intended brother-in-law. It was pretty evident that +the prospect of doing this had influenced him in his apparently +honourable desire to atone to the poor girl, who, completely prostrated +by this second blow, was laid on the bed of sickness. +</P> + +<P> +For some weeks she continued thus and her own sufferings were increased +by he sight of her brother's fury, as, on her partial recovery, he +quitted her in search of her seducer. +</P> + +<P> +During his absence Mary became a mother, and the little one that +nestled in her bosom, made her half forgetful of her sorrows, and at +times ready to embrace the delusive hope that some slight happiness in +life was in store for her. But her bitter cup was not yet drained. Day +by day, hour by hour, her little one pined away, until one +dreary night she held within her arms only its tiny corpse. +</P> + +<P> +Not one sound of grief—not an outward sign to show how deeply the heart +was touched—escaped her. The busy neighbours left her for awhile, glad +though amazed at her wondrous calmness; when they returned to finish +their preparations for committing the child to its last resting-place, +the mother and her infant had disappeared. +</P> + +<P> +Carrying the lifeless burden closely pressed against her bosom, as +though the pelting rain and chilling air could harm it now, Mary +rapidly left the town where she had experienced so much misery, +on—on—towards Geelong, the route her seducer and his pursuer had +taken—on—across Iett's Flat, until at length, weak and exhausted, she +sank down on the barren plains beyond. +</P> + +<P> +Next morning the early dawn found her still plodding her weary way—her +only refreshment being a dry crust and some water obtained at an +halting-house on the road; and many a passer-by, attracted by the +wildness of her eyes, her eager manner, and disordered dress, cast +after her a curious wondering look. But she heeded them +not—on—on she pursued her course towards the Broken River. +</P> + +<P> +Here she paused. The heavy winter rains had swollen the waters, which +swept along, dashing over the irregular pieces of rock that formed the +only means of crossing over. But danger was as nothing to her now—the +first few steps were taken—the rapid stream was rushing wildly round +her—a sensation, of giddiness and exhaustion made her limbs tremble—her +footing slipped on the wet and slimy stone—in another moment the +ruthless waters carried her away. +</P> + +<P> +The morrow came, and the sun shone brightly upon the still swollen and +rapid river. Two men stood beside it, both too annoyed at this +impediment to their return to Melbourne to be in the slightest degree +aware of their proximity to one another. A bonnet caught by a +projecting fragment of rock simultaneously attracted their attention: +both moved towards the spot, and thus brought into closer contact they +recognized each other. Deadly foes though they were, not a word passed +between them, and silently they dragged the body of the unhappy +girl to land. In her cold and tightened grasp still lay the child. As +they stood gazing on those injured ones, within one breast remorse and +shame, in the other, hatred and revenge, were raging violently. +</P> + +<P> +Each step on the road to Ballarat had increased her brother's desire +for vengeance, and still further was this heightened on discovering +that Stephens had already left the diggings to return to town. This +disappointment maddened him; his whole energy was flung into tracing +his foe, and in this he had succeeded so closely, that unknown to +either, both had slept beneath the same roof at the inn beside the +Broken River. +</P> + +<P> +The voices of some of the loungers there, who were coming down to the +Creek to see what mischief had been done during the night, aroused him. +He glanced upon his enemy, who pale and trembling, stood gazing on the +wreck that he had made. Revenge at last was in his hands—not a moment +was to be lost—with the yell of a maniac he sprang upon the powerless +and conscious-stricken man—seized him in his arms rushed to the +river—and ere any could interpose, both had found a grave where but a +few minutes before the bodies of Mary and her infant had reposed. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap14"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XIV. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +NEW SOUTH WALES +</H3> + +<P> +About seventy years ago a small colony of convicts first made the +forests ring with the blows of the axe, and a few tents were erected +where Sydney now stands. The tents, and they who dwelt beneath them, +have long since disappeared, and instead we have one of the finest +cities that our colonial empire ever produced. +</P> + +<P> +The streets in Sydney are, as in Melbourne, built at right angles +with one another; they are macadamized, well lighted with gas, and +perambulated by a number of policemen during the night. Some of +the shops almost rival those of London, and the public buildings are +good and numerous. There is a custom-house, a treasury, police-office, +college, benevolent asylum, banks, barracks, hospitals, libraries, +churches, chapels, a synagogue, museum, club-house, theatre, and many +splendid hotels, of which the largest is, I think the "Royal Hotel," in +George Street, built at the cost of 30,000 pounds. +</P> + +<P> +Hyde Park is close at hand, with un-numbered public walks, and a +botanical garden, the favourite resort of all classes. +</P> + +<P> +In the neighbourhood of Sydney are some good oyster-beds, and many are +the picnics got up for the purpose of visiting them. The oysters cling +to the rocks, and great numbers are easily obtained. +</P> + +<P> +The distance from Sydney to Melbourne, by the overland road, is about +six hundred miles; but the steamers, which are constantly plying, +afford a more comfortable mode of transit. +</P> + +<P> +The gold diggings of New South Wales are so well known as to +require but a cursory notice. The first official notification of the +fact of gold having been discovered bears date, May 22, 1851, and is +contained in a despatch from the Governor to Earl Grey. In it he +announced the existence of a gold field to the westward of Bathurst, +about one hundred and fifty miles from Sydney. At the same time, he +added his supposition that the gold sent for inspection was Califorian. +</P> + +<P> +Mr Stutchbury, the geological surveyor, quickly undeceived his +Excellency. He wrote from Hill Creek reporting that four hundred +persons were hard at work, and that the gold existed not only in the +creek but beyond it. The following postscript was added to his letter: +"Excuse this being written in pencil, as there is no ink in this city +of Ophir." And this appropriate name has ever since been retained. +</P> + +<P> +The natural consequences of this discovery was the flocking of hundreds +of the inhabitants of Sydney to Bathurst. Sober people began to be +alarmed at this complete BOULEVERSEMENT of business and +tranquillity. For the sake of order the Governor attempted to put a +stop to the increasing desertion of the capital by proclaiming that the +gold-fields were the prerogative of the Crown, and threatening +gold-diggers with prosecution. It was all in vain. The glitterings of +the precious metal were more attractive than the threats of the +Governor were otherwise. The people laughed good-humoured at the +proclamation, and only flocked in greater numbers to the auriferous +spot. +</P> + +<P> +Government now took a wiser course, and finding it impossible to stem +the torrent, determined to turn the eagerness of the multitude to some +account. A licence-fee of 30s., or half an ounce of gold, per month was +imposed, which, with few exceptions, has always been cheerfully paid. +</P> + +<P> +The Turon diggings soon followed those of Bathurst. This river flows +into the Macquarie after a course of a hundred miles. Along the entire +length auriferous discoveries are constantly being made, and it bids +fair to last for many years to come. The gold is not found, as many +erroneously suppose, so much among the sand as by digging in the soil. +It also exists in paying quantities on the shores and in the rive flows +of the Macquarie, the Abercrombie, and Belubula rivers. Major's Creek, +too, is a favourite locality, and was first made known by a prospecting +woman. +</P> + +<P> +According to Mr. Stutchbury's report, he found gold ALMOST WHEREVER HE +TRIED FOR IT, and whilst traversing the Macquarie from Walgumballa to +the Turon, he found it at EVERY place he tried. Surely Midas must, once +upon a time, have taken a pleasure-trip to Australia! +</P> + +<P> +The delirium of the Sydney gold-fever reached its height when it became +publicly known that a piece of one hundred and six pounds weight had +been disembowelled from the earth, at one time. This immense quantity +was the discovery of a native, who, being excited by the universal +theme of conversation, provided himself with a tomahawk, and explored +the country adjacent to his employer's land. He was attracted +by a glittering yellow substance on the surface of a block of quartz. +With his tomahawk he broke off a piece, which he carried home to his +master, Dr. Kerr, of Wallawa. Not being able to move the mass +conveniently, Dr. Kerr broke it into small fragments. The place where +it was found is at the commencement of an undulating table-land, very +fertile, and near to a never-failing supply of water in the Murroo +Creek. It is distant about fifty miles from Bathurst, thirty from +Wellington, and twenty from the nearest point of the Macquarie river. +</P> + +<P> +Dr. Kerr presented the native and his brother with two flocks of sheep, +two saddle-horses, a quantity of rations, a team of bullocks, and some +land. +</P> + +<P> +About twenty yards from the spot where this mass was found, a piece of +gold called the "Brennan Nugget" was soon after discovered. It weighed +three hundred and thirty-six ounces, and was sold in Sydney for more +than 1,100 pounds. +</P> + +<P> +But it would be useless to enter into fuller particulars of the +diggings of New South Wales. Panoramas, newspapers, and serials have +made them familiar to all. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap15"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XV. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SOUTH AUSTRALIA +</H3> + +<P> +Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, was the last formed of the +three sister colonies. In 1834 an act of colonization was obtained; and +land, both in town and country, sold rapidly. The colonists, however, +were most unfortunately more engaged in speculating with the land, than +grazing upon or tilling it; and the consequence was, that in a few +years the South Australians were only saved from a famine by the +unexpected arrival overland of herds and flocks from Victoria. As it +was, horses and cows of a very indifferent kind were sold for +more than a hundred pounds a-piece, and sheep for five pounds a head. +</P> + +<P> +The discovery of the copper mines alone saved the country from ruin. +The first was the Kapunda. It was accidentally discovered by a +shepherd, who picked up a piece on the surface of the ground, and +showed it to his master. Pieces of copper ore may even now be found in +the same way. +</P> + +<P> +Next followed the far-famed Burra-Burra. In the latter mine there is a +great quantity of malachite, which, when smelted, gives copper at an +average of eighty-five per cent. +</P> + +<P> +South Australia possesses the finest river in Australia—namely, the +Murray, on which steamers will soon ply as far as five hundred miles up +the country. On either side of this river is a thick and dry +scrub—sometimes ten, sometimes thirty miles wide. In this scrub, manna +is not unfrequently found, to the great delight of the natives, who are +very fond of it. It is of a very excellent description, and in colour +has a slight tendency to pink. +</P> + +<P> +Adelaide itself is a well-laid out town. The streets are built in the +same manner as in Sydney and Melbourne; but those in Adelaide are much +wider. Many of the buildings and warehouses are highly creditable, +particularly when we take the juvenile age of the colony into +consideration. +</P> + +<P> +Adelaide has never yet been "a transportation colony," and the society +there is usually considered more RECHERCHE than in any other city in +Australia. The climate is very good, and the vine flourishes as in the +south of France. The principal export of South Australia is copper, to +which may be added some wool and tallow. +</P> + +<P> +The roads about are excellent, and the small farms in the neighbourhood +are more in the English style than one could expect to meet with so +many thousand miles away from home. +</P> + +<P> +The overland route from Adelaide to Melbourne is about four hundred +miles in length. In summer the road is pretty good, but in winter, a +lake or swamp of twenty miles extent has to be waded through. +</P> + +<P> +The scrub about South Australia is very thick, and any one may easily +lose themselves in it. This has in fact often been the case, and a +fearful instance of it occurred some few years ago. A young lady—the +daughter of a gentleman residing near Adelaide—started out one Sunday +afternoon with a book as her companion. Evening came, and she did not +return, which alarmed her family, and search was made far and near—but +in vain. On the fourth day, they at length discovered her lying dead at +the foot of a tree. The pages of her book were covered with sentences, +pricked in with a pin, expressive of her sufferings and of her +unavailing efforts to retrace her steps. She was only three miles from +her father's house when she sank down to die of hunger, thirst, and +exhaustion; and probably during the whole time of her wanderings had +never exceeded that distance from her home. +</P> + +<P> +The Adelaide gold-diggings began to excite attention in the months of +August and September, 1852. In October the following report was made: +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Camp, Echunga, Gold-Fields,<BR> +"October 2, 1852. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Sir, +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"I have the honour to state for the information of his Excellency the +Lieutenant-Governor, that since my last report sixty licences have been +issued, making a total of three hundred and fifty-six. * * * * Many +families of respectability have arrived, and are now living in +comfortable and commodious tents. The presence of well-dressed women +and children gives to the gold-fields, apparently distinguished for +decorum, security and respectability. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"From the feeling of greater security and comfort, combined with +cheapness of living, all classes of diggers are unanimous in their +preference of this place to Victoria. * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"The nugget of gold which I have forwarded for his Excellency's +inspection, weighing about an ounce and a half, was found about seven +feet below the surface.* * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"There are some few amongst the lately arrived who expressed +dissatisfaction with the result of their labours and observations, +while others, who have been working for the last month, have promptly +renewed their expired licences. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +(Signed) "A. J. MURRAY,<BR> + "Assistant Gold Commissioner.<BR> + "The Hon. the Colonial Secretary."<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +In the month of October several pieces of gold, weighing each half an +ounce and upwards, were found, and a few of the holes that had been +abandoned by inexperienced hands, when taken possession of by old +diggers on the Turon or the Bendigo, were found to contain good washing +stuff. The diggings were well supplied with food of every kind; and +during the summer months there could be no lack of fruits and +vegetables in abundance, at reasonable prices, supplied from the +numerous and well-cultivated farms and gardens around. This is +certainly an advantage over the diggings of Victoria or New South +Wales, if gold really does exist in paying quantities; if not, all the +fruit and vegetables in the world would not keep the diggers at +Echunga. +</P> + +<P> +The following "Lament" was circulated in Adelaide, but not one of the +newspapers there would print it. They were all too anxious for the +success of their diggings, to countenance any grumblers against them: +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + A LAMENT FOR MY THIRTY SHILLINGS,<BR> + DEDICATED TO THE ECHUNGA VICTIMS,<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + My one pound ten! my one pound ten!<BR> + I paid as Licence Fee;<BR> + Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return,<BR> + That one pound ten to me.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + When to Echunga diggings first<BR> + I hastened up from town,<BR> + Thy tent I sought with anxious care<BR> + And paid the money down.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + And though my folly ever since<BR> + I bitterly deplore,<BR> + It soothes my mind to know there were<BR> + Three scores of fools before.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + Then, Bonney, listen to my lay,<BR> + And if you wish to thrive,<BR> + Send back the money quick to me,<BR> + To number sixty-five.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + Who wants but little here below,<BR> + Nor wants that little long,<BR> + Had better to Echunga go,<BR> + And not to Mount Coorong.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + But as for me I like a swag,<BR> + At least a little more<BR> + Than what we got there in a week—<BR> + Eight pennyweights 'mongst four.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + For that, of surface earth we washed<BR> + Of dray loads half a score;<BR> + I'll swear that cradling never seemed<BR> + Such tedious work before.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + To sink for gold we then commenced,<BR> + With grief I must confess,<BR> + 'Twas fruitless toil, although we went<BR> + Down thirty feet or less.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + All you who've paid your one pound ten,<BR> + Are on your licence told<BR> + That then you are entitled to<BR> + Remove alluvial gold.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + But if the alluvial gold's not there<BR> + I'd like to have it proved<BR> + By what ingenious process it<BR> + Can ever be removed?<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + Then back to Bendigo I'll haste,<BR> + To seek the precious ore;<BR> + Although my one pound ten I fear<BR> + Returns to me no more.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + Yet as the boundary line I cross,<BR> + My parting prayer shall be—<BR> + Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return<BR> + My one pound ten to me!<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + ANTIGROPOLOS.<BR> + Adelaide, September 1852.<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +With a short extract from the "South Australian Register" of +February 7, 1853, I shall conclude my remarks on the Adelaide diggings. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +"THE GOLD FIELDS.—Although there is at the diggings everything to +indicate gold in large quantities, none have succeeded in realizing +their hopes. The majority content themselves with what they can get on +Chapman's Hill and Gully, knowing that, if a fresh place is discovered, +they will stand as good a chance as those who have spent months +in trying to find better ground. +</P> + +<P> +"The quantity of gold taken to the Assay-office, during four +consecutive weeks, amounting to less than four thousand ounces, the +Governor has proclaimed that after the 17th of February the office will +be closed." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap16"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XVI. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MELBOURNE AGAIN +</H3> + +<P> +It was on Monday the 25th of October, that for the second time I +entered Melbourne. Not many weeks had elapsed since I had quitted it +for my adventurous trip to the diggings, yet in that short space of +time how many changes had taken place. The cloudy sky was exchanged for +a brilliant sunshine, the chilling air for a truly tropical heat, the +drizzling rain for clouds of thick cutting dust, sometimes as thick as +a London fog, which penetrated the most substantial veil, and made our +skins smart terribly. The streets too had undergone a wondrous +transformation. Collins Street looked quite bright and cheerful, and +was the fashionable promenade of those who had time or inclination for +lounging. Parties of diggers were constantly starting or arriving, +trips to St. Kilda and Brighton were daily taking place; and a coach +was advertised to run to the diggings! I cannot quite realize the +terrified passengers being driven through the Black Forest, but can +picture their horror when ordered to "bail up" by a party of Australian +Turpins. +</P> + +<P> +In every window—milliners, baby-linen warehouses, &c., included—was +exhibited the usual advertisement of the gold buyer—namely, a heap of +gold in the centre, on one side a pile of sovereigns, on the other +bank-notes. The most significant advertisement was one I saw in a +window in Collins Street. In the middle was a skull perforated by a +bullet, which lay at a little distance as if coolly examining or +speculating on the mischief it had done. On one side of the skull was a +revolver, and on the other a quantity of nuggets. Above all, was the +emphatic inscription, "Beware in time." This rather +uncomfortable-looking tableau signified—in as speaking a manner as +symbols can—that the unfortunate skull had once belonged to some more +unfortunate lucky digger, who not having had the sense to sell his gold +to the proprietor of this attractive window had kept his nuggets in his +pocket, thereby tempting some robbers—significantly personified by the +revolver—to shoot him, and steal the gold. Nowhere could you turn your +eye without meeting "30,000 oz. wanted immediately; highest price +given;" "10,000 oz. want to consign per ——; extra price given to +immediate sellers," &c. Outwardly it seemed a city of gold, yet +hundreds were half perishing for want of food, with no place of shelter +beneath which to lay their heads. Many families of freshly-arrived +emigrants—wife, children, and all—slept out in the open air; infants +were born upon the wharves with no helping hand near to support the +wretched mother in her misery. +</P> + +<P> +How greatly the last few weeks had enlarged Melbourne. Cities of tents +encompassed it on all sides; though, as I said before, the trifling +comfort of a canvas roof above them, was denied to the poorest +of the poor, unless a weekly tax were paid! +</P> + +<P> +But I must return to ourselves. Our first business the next morning was +to find for our little Jessie some permanent home; for all our +movements were so uncertain—I myself, thinking of a return to the old +country—that it was considered advisable to obtain for her some better +friends than a set of volatile, though good-hearted young fellows—not +the most suitable protection for a young girl, even in so lax a place +as the colonies. We never thought of letting her return to England, for +there the life of a female, who has her own livelihood to earn, is one +of badly-paid labour, entailing constant privation, and often great +misery—if not worse. I have before said that William had relatives in +Melbourne, and to them we determined to entrust her. Mrs. R——- was a +kind-hearted and most exemplary woman; and having a very young family +of her own, was well pleased at such an acquisition as the thoughtful, +industrious little Jessie. Each of our party contributed a +small portion of their golden earnings to form a fund for a future day, +which I doubt not will be increased by our little friend's industry, +long before she needs it. Here let us leave her, trusting that her +future life may be as happy as her many excellent qualities deserve, +and hoping that her severest trials have already passed over her. +</P> + +<P> +Our next care was to obtain our gold from the Escort-office; to do +which the receipts given in Bendigo had to be handed in, and after very +little delay the precious packets were restored to their respective +owners. The following is a facsimile of the tickets, printed on +parchment, attached to each parcel of which a duplicate, printed on +common paper, is given to the depositor: +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> + BENDIGO CREEK.<BR> + No. 2772.<BR> + Date, 8th of October, 1852.<BR> + Name, Mr. A——.<BR> + Quantity, 60 oz. 10 dwts.<BR> + Consigned to, Self.<BR> +</P> + +<P> +The trifling charge for all this trouble and responsibility is sixpence +an ounce. +</P> + +<P> +The business satisfactorily arranged, the next was to dispose of it. +Some was converted into money, and sold for 69s. an ounce; and the +remainder was consigned to England, where, being very pure and above +standard, it realized 4 pounds an ounce. A great difference that! +</P> + +<P> +We next paid Richard a visit, who, though surprised was well pleased to +see us again. He declared his resolution of returning to England as +soon as possible. Our party fixed their journey to the Ovens to take +place in three weeks. William determined to remain in town, which I +think showed wisdom on his part as his health was not equal to roughing +it in the bush; and this was a much more formidable trip than the last, +on account of length, and being much less frequented. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile we enjoyed the fine weather, and our present companionship, +as much as possible, while taking little trips here, there, and +everywhere. The one I most enjoyed was a sail in the Bay. The +captain of the vessel in which we left England, was still detained in +Port Philip for want of hands—the case of hundreds—and offered to give +us a sail, and a dinner on board afterwards. We soon made up a large +party, and enjoyed it exceedingly. The day was lovely. We walked down +to Liardet's Beach, a distance of nearly three miles, and were soon +calmly skimming over the waters. We passed St. Kilda and Brighton, and +gained an excellent view of the innumerable vessels then lying useless +and half-deserted in the Bay. +</P> + +<P> +It was a sad though a pretty sight. There were fine East Indiamen, +emigrant ships, American clippers, steamers, traders—foreign and +English—whalers, &c., waiting there only through want of seamen. +</P> + +<P> +In the cool of the evening our gallant host rowed us back to the beach. +Since our first landing, tents and stores had been erected in great +numbers, and Little Adelaide was grown wonderfully. I think I have +never mentioned the quantity of frogs that abound in Australia. +This particular evening I remarked them more than usual, and without +the least exaggeration their croaking resembled a number of mills in +motion. I know nothing to which I can more appropriately liken the +noise that resounded along the swampy portions of the road, from the +beach to Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +Much has been said of the climate of Australia, and many are the +conflicting statements thereon. The following table contains all the +information—personal and otherwise—which I have been enabled to +collect. +</P> + +<P> +JANUARY AND FEBRUARY.—Generally the hottest months; average of the +thermometer, 78 in the shade; thunder-storms and COLONIAL showers of +rain occasionally visit us. +</P> + +<P> +MARCH.—Fine genial weather; average temperature, 73 in the shade. +</P> + +<P> +APRIL.—Weather more uncertain; mosquitos depart; average temperature, +70 in the shade: +</P> + +<P> +MAY.—Fine, till towards the latter part of the month, when sometimes +the rainy season commences; average temperature in the shade, 64. +</P> + +<P> +JUNE.—Rainy, and much cooler; temperature at an average of 58 in the +shade. +</P> + +<P> +JULY.—Coldest month in the year; midwinter in the colonies; average +temperature, 53. Ice and snow may be seen inland. +</P> + +<P> +AUGUST.—Very rainy. Average temperature, 58 in the shade. +</P> + +<P> +SEPTEMBER.—Windy stormy month; weather getting warmer. Average +temperature, 63 in the shade. +</P> + +<P> +OCTOBER—The presence of the mosquito, a sure proof that the weather is +permanently warm. Average temperature in the shade, 66. +</P> + +<P> +NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER.—Tropically warm. Locusts, mosquitos, and +unnumbered creeping things swarm both in bush and town. Towards the end +of December the creeks commence to dry up, and the earth looks parched +for want of rain. No yule-log needed on Christmas Day. Thermometer as +high as 97 in the shade; average 75. +</P> + +<P> +The principal trees in Australia are the gum, stringy bark, manna tree, +wild cherry (so called), iron bark, shea oak, peppermint, +acacia, and the mimosa, which last, however, should more properly be +called a shrub. These and others, like the Indian malelucas, are +remarkable for the Cajeput oil contained in their leaves, and in the +gums which exude from their sterns, and in this point of view alone, +considering their boundless number, their value can hardly be over +estimated. The gum of some of the acacias will bear comparison with +gum-arabic. Their bark and timber are likewise useful, and when the +gold fever has subsided, will become valuable as exports. +</P> + +<P> +Wild flowers there are in abundance, and some exquisite specimens of +ferns. For the benefit of those better skilled in botany than myself, I +give the following list of Dr. Muller's indigenous plants of Victoria. +Correaochrolenca and Phebalium Asteriscophorum, both with the medical +properties of the Bucco-bush, Eurybia Rhodochaeta, E. Rugosa, E. +Adenophylla, E. Asterotristia, Sambucus, Gaudichaudiana, Prostanthera +Hirsuta, Pimelea axiflora (powerful Surrogat of the Mezerion +shrub), Bossidea decumbcus, Asterotristia asperifolia, Patersonia +aspera, Grevilliea repens, Dallachiana, &c. +</P> + +<P> +The geranium, fuschia, rhododendrum, and almost all varieties of the +Cacti have been taken to the colonies, and flourish well in the open +air all the year round, growing much more luxuriantly than in England. +</P> + +<P> +The vineyards must some day form a considerable source of employment +and profit to the colonists. The wine made in Australia is very good. +The vines are cultivated in the same manner as in France. In the +neighbourhood of Sydney, oranges and peaches are grown out in the open +air. Apples and other fruits flourish well in Van Diemen's Land. All +these fruits are not indigenous to Australia. The only articles of food +natural there, are the kangaroos, emus, opossums, and other denizens of +the forest, a few snakes, some roots, and a worm, about the length and +thickness of a finger, which is abundant in all parts of the colony, +and is taken out of the cavities, or from under the bark, of the trees. +It is a great favourite with the blacks, as it can be procured +when no other food is attainable. +</P> + +<P> +I have before made mention of the bush and scrub; there is a great +dissimilarity between the two. The former resembles a forest, with none +or very little underwood. The scrub, on the contrary, is always +underwood, of from six to twenty feet high, and only here and there a +few trees are seen. To be lost in either bush or scrub is a common +thing. If on horseback the best way is to give the rein to your +four-footed companion, and instinct will most probably enable him to +extricate you. If on foot, ascend, if possible, a rise of ground, and +notice any FALL in the country; here, most likely, is a creek, and once +beside that, you are pretty sure of coming to a station. If this fails, +you must just bush it for the night, and resume your search next +morning, trusting to an occasional "coo-ey" to help you out of your +difficulty. +</P> + +<P> +The scenery of Australia partakes of all characters. Sometimes miles of +swamp reminds one of the Lincolnshire fens; at other times it assumes +quite a park-like appearance, though the effect is greatly +injured by the want of freshness about the foliage, which always looks +of a dirty, dingy green. The native trees in Australia never shed their +leaves, never have that exquisite young tint which makes an English +spring in the country so delicious. Their faded look always reminded me +of those unfortunate trees imprisoned for so many months beneath the +Crystal Palace. +</P> + +<P> +The mountains in Australia are high and bold in outline, and the +snow-capped Alps on the boundaries of New South Wales are not unlike +their European namesakes, the highest tops are from six to seven +thousand feet above the level of the sea. The country round Ballarat is +more in the North American style, and when the creek is full, it is a +fine sight, greatly resembling, I have beard, one of the smaller rivers +in Canada; in fact, the scenery round Ballarat is said to approach more +to Upper Canada than any in the colony. The rocks, although not high, +are in places very bold and romantic, and in the wet season there are +several water-falls in the neighbourhood. +</P> + +<P> +Eels are very plentiful in Victoria, and are peculiar to this district, +being seldom, if ever, found in any other part of the known continent. +Old writers on Australia have stated that eels are unknown in this part +of the world, which, since this colony has been settled in, has been +found to be erroneous, as the Barwin, the Yarra Yarra, and their +tributaries abound with them, some weighing five or six pounds. A few +days after our return from the diggings, we breakfasted off a dish of +stewed eels, caught by a friend; the smallest weighed about a pound and +a half, the largest about three pounds. They were caught three miles +from Melbourne, in the Salt Water Creek. +</P> + +<P> +A small kind of fish like the lamprey, another similar to the gudgeon, +and also one (of rather a larger kind—the size of the roach) called +here "white herrings," but not at all resembling that fish, are found. +Pike are also very numerous. Crabs and lobsters are not known here, but +in the salt creeks near the sea we have craw-fish. +</P> + +<P> +Of course, parrots, cockatoos and "sich-like," abound in the +bush, to the horror of the small gardeners and cultivators, as what +they do not eat they ruin by destroying the young shoots. +</P> + +<P> +Kangaroos are extremely numerous in the scrub. They are the size of a +large greyhound, and of a mouse colour. The natives call them +"kanguru." The tail is of great strength. There are several varieties +of them. The largest is the Great Kangaroo, of a greyish-brown colour, +generally four or five feet high and the tail three. Some kangaroos are +nearly white, others resemble the hare in colour. Pugs, or young +kangaroos, are plentiful about the marshy grounds; so are also the +opossum and kangaroo rat. The latter is not a rat, properly speaking, +but approaches the squirrel tribe. It is a lilliputian kangaroo, the +size of our native wood squirrel and larger, only grey or reddish-grey. +It can leap six or eight feet easily, and is excellent eating. The +native dog is of all colours; it has the head and brush of a fox, with +the body a legs of a dog. It is a cowardly animal, and will run away +from you like mad. It is a great enemy of the kangaroo rat, and +a torment to the squatter, for a native dog has a great PENCHANT for +mutton and will kill thirty or forty sheep in the course of an hour. +</P> + +<P> +A species of mocking-bird which inhabits the bush is a ludicrous +creature. It imitates everything, and makes many a camping party +imagine there is a man near them, when they hear its whistle or hearty +laugh. This bird is nicknamed the "Jackass," and its loud "ha! ha! ha!" +is heard every morning at dawn echoing through the woods and serving +the purpose of a "boots" by calling the sleepy traveller in good time +to get his breakfast and pursue his journey. The bats here are very +large. +</P> + +<P> +Insects, fleas, &c., are as plentiful as it is possible to be, and the +ants, of which there are several kinds, are a perfect nuisance. The +largest are called by the old colonists, "bull-dogs," and formidable +creatures they are—luckily not very common, about an inch and a half +long, black, or rusty-black, with a red tail. They bite like a +little crab. Ants of an inch long are quite common. They do not—like the +English ones—run scared away at the sight of a human being—not a +bit of it; Australian ants have more PLUCK, and will turn and face you. +Nay, more, should you RETREAT, they will run after you with all the +impudence imaginable. Often when my organ of destructiveness has +tempted me slightly to disturb with the end of my parasol one of the +many ant-hills on the way from Melbourne to Richmond, I have been +obliged, as soon as they discovered the perpetrator of the attack, to +take to my heels and run away as if for my life. +</P> + +<P> +Centipedes and triantelopes (colonial, for tarantula) are very common, +and though not exactly fatal, are very dangerous if not attended to. +The deaf adder is the most formidable "varmint" in Australia. There are +two varieties; it is generally about two feet long. The bite is fatal. +The deaf adder never moves unless it is touched, hence its name. I do +not think it has the power of twisting or twirling, like the +ordinary snake or adder and it is very slow in its movements. There are +several species of snakes, some of them are extremely venomous and grow +to a large size, as long as ten feet. The black snake is the most +venomous of any; its bite is fatal within a few hours. +</P> + +<P> +But let us leave these wilder subjects and return to Melbourne. +</P> + +<P> +The state of society in the town had not much improved during my +absence. On the public road from Melbourne to St. Kilda, fifteen men +were robbed in one afternoon, and tied to trees within sight of one +another. In Melbourne itself the same want of security prevailed, and +concerts, lectures, &c., were always advertised to take place when +there was a full moon, the only nights any one, unarmed, dared venture, +out after dusk. The following extract from the "Argus," gives a fair +specimen of Melbourne order. +</P> + +<P> +"We are led to these remarks (referring to a tirade against the +Government) by an occurrence that took place last week in Queen Street, +the whole detail of which is peculiarly illustrative of the +very creditable state of things, to which, under the happy auspices of +a La Trobe dynasty, we are rapidly descending. +</P> + +<P> +"A ruffian robs a man in a public-house, in broad daylight. He is +pursued by a constable and taken. On the way to the watchhouse a mob +collects, the police are attacked, pistols are pointed, bludgeons and +axe-handles are brought out of the adjacent houses (all still in broad +daylight, and in a busy street), and distributed amongst the crowd, +loud cries inciting attack are heard, a scuffle ensues, the police are +beaten, the prisoner is rescued, the crowd separates, and a man is left +dead upon the ground. The body is taken into a public-house, an inquest +is held, the deceased is recognized as a drunkard, the jury is assured +that a POST-MORTEM examination is quite unnecessary; and the man is +buried, after a verdict is brought in of 'Died by the visitation of +God;' the said visitation of God having, in this instance, assumed the +somewhat peculiar form of a fractured skull!" +</P> + +<P> +This is a true picture of Melbourne; but whether the "Argus" is +justified in reproaching the "La Trobe dynasty" with it, is quite +another matter. +</P> + +<P> +In pages like these, anything resembling an argument on the +"transportation question," would be sadly out of place. To avoid +thinking or hearing it was impossible, for during my second stay in +Melbourne, it was a never-failing subject of conversation. In Victoria +(which is only forty-eight hours' journey from Van Diemen's Land), I +have seen the bad results of the mingling of so many transports and +ticket-of-leave men among the free population. On the other hand, I +have heard from many and good authorities, of the substantial benefits +conferred on Sydney and New South Wales by convict labour. It is +difficult to reconcile these two statements, and it is an apple of +discord in the colonies. +</P> + +<P> +Whilst in Victoria, I met with a great variety of emigrants, and I was +much struck by the great success that seems to have attended on almost +all of those who came out under the auspices of Mrs. Chisholm. No one +in England can fully appreciate the benefits her unwearied +exertions have conferred upon the colonies. I have met many of the +matrons of her ships, and not only do they themselves seem to have made +their way in the world, but the young females who were under their care +during the voyage appear to have done equally well. Perhaps one way of +accounting for this, is the fact that a great many of those going out +by the Chisholm Society are from Scotland, the inhabitants of which +country are peculiarly fortunate in the colonies, their industry, +frugality, and "canniness" being the very qualities to make a fortune +there. "Sydney Herbert's needlewomen" bear but a bad name; and the +worst recommendation a young girl applying for a situation can give, is +to say she came out in that manner—not because the colonists look down +on any one coming out by the assistance of others, but because it is +imagined her female associates on the voyage cannot have been such as +to improve her morality, even if she were good for anything before. +</P> + +<P> +Much is said and written in England about the scarcity of +females in Australia, and the many good offers awaiting the acceptance +of those who have the courage to travel so far. But the colonial +bachelors, who are so ready to get married, and so very easy in their +choice of a wife, are generally those the least calculated, in spite of +their wealth, to make a respectable girl happy; whilst the better class +of squatters and diggers—if they do not return home to get married, +which is often the case—are not satisfied with any one, however pretty, +for a wife, unless her manners are cultivated and her principles +correct. +</P> + +<P> +To wander through Melbourne and its environs, no one would imagine that +females were as one to four of the male population; for bonnets and +parasols everywhere outnumber the wide-awakes. This is occasioned by +the absence of so many of the "lords of creation" in pursuit of what +they value—many of them, at least—more than all the women in the +world—nuggets. The wives thus left in town to deplore their husbands' +infatuation, are termed "grass-widows"—a mining expression. +</P> + +<P> +And now two out of the three weeks of our party's stay in Melbourne has +expired, during which time a change (purely personal) had made my +brother's protection no longer needed by me. MY wedding-trip was to be +to England, and the marriage was to take place, and myself and CARO +SPOSO to leave Australia before my brother departed for the Ovens +diggings. The 'C——,' a fine East Indiaman, then lying in the bay, was +bound for London. We were to be on board by the 12th of November. +</P> + +<P> +This of course gave me plenty to do, and my last morning but one in +Melbourne was dedicated to that favourite feminine occupation—which, +however, I detest—I mean, shopping. This being accomplished to my great +dissatisfaction—for all I bought could have been obtained, of a better +description, for half the price in England—I was preparing to return +home by way of Collins Street, when my name in familiar accents made me +suddenly pause. I instantly recognised the lady who addressed me as one +of the English governesses in a "finishing" school where three years of +my girlhood were passed. Julia ——— was a great favourite among +us; no one could have done otherwise than admire the ability and +good-humour with which she fulfilled her many arduous duties. Perhaps, +of all miserable positions for a well-educated and refined young person +to be placed in, that of "little girls' teacher" in a lady's school is +the worst. +</P> + +<P> +Her subsequent history I learnt as we walked together to my present +abode. +</P> + +<P> +Her mother had had a cousin in Sydney, who being old and unmarried, +wrote to her, promising to settle all his property, which was +considered large, upon her daughter and herself, his only living +relatives, provided they came out to the colonies to live with him +until his death. A sum of money to defray the expenses of the voyage +was enclosed. This piece of unexpected good news was received with +pleasure, and the invitation gladly accepted. They sailed for Sydney. +On arriving there, they found that some speculation, in which he was +greatly involved, had failed; and the old man had taken the loss so +greatly to heart, that he died only five months after having +dispatched the letter to his English relatives. +</P> + +<P> +Poor Julia was placed in a most painful position. In England she had +scarcely been able to support her invalid mother by her own exertions, +but in a strange country and without friends these difficulties seemed +increased. Her first act was to look over the advertizing columns of +the papers, and her eye caught sight of one which seemed exactly to +suit her. It was, "Wanted, a governess to take the entire charge of a +little girl, the daughter of a widower, and also an elderly lady, to +superintend the domestic arrangements of the same family during the +continual absence of the master at another station." Julia wrote +immediately, and was accepted. In the occasional visits that her +pupil's father paid to his little girl, he could not fail to be struck +by the sweet disposition and many other good qualities of her +governess, and it ended by his making her his wife. I felt at liberty +to congratulate her, for she looked the picture of happiness. I saw her +again next day, when she showed me the advertisement which had +been the means of such a change in her circumstances. +</P> + +<P> +The day before my departure was a painful one, so many farewells to be +taken of dear friends whom I should never meet again. +</P> + +<P> +On Friday, the 15th of November, my brother and all our party, Richard +and Jessie included, accompanied us to the pier at Williamstown, to +which we were conveyed by a steamer. For this we paid five shillings +a-piece, and the same for each separate box or parcel, and twelve +shillings to a man for carting our luggage down to the Melbourne wharf, +a distance of not a mile. +</P> + +<P> +On landing at the pier, how greatly was I astonished to meet Harriette +and her husband. Her modest desires were gratified, and they had +realized sufficient capital at the diggings to enable them to settle +most comfortably near Adelaide. In hurried words she told me this, for +their boat was already alongside the pier waiting to take them to their +ship. Hardly had they departed than a boat arrived from our +vessel to convey us to it. Sad adieux were spoken, and we were rowed +away. +</P> + +<P> +That evening a pilot came on board, anchors were weighed, we left the +bay, and I saw Melbourne no more. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap17"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XVII. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HOMEWARD BOUND +</H3> + +<P> +We soon left Port Philip far behind, and in a few days saw nothing but +a vast expanse of water all around us. Our vessel was filled with +returning diggers; and it is worth while to remark that only two had +been unsuccessful, and these had only been at the diggings a few days. +</P> + +<P> +One family on board interested me very much. It consisted of father, +mother, and two children. The eldest, a little, girl, had been born +some time before they left England. Her brother was a sturdy fellow of +two years old, born in the colonies soon after their arrival. +He could just toddle about the deck, where he was everlastingly looking +for "dold," and "nuddets." The whole family had been at the diggings +for nine months, and were returning with something more than 2,000 pounds +worth of gold. In England it had been hard work to obtain sufficient +food by the most constant labour; they had good reason to be thankful +for the discovery of the gold-fields. +</P> + +<P> +Saturday, November 27, was forty-eight hours long, or two days of the +same name and date. Sailing right round the world in the direction of +from west to east, we gained exactly twenty-four hours upon those who +stay at home; and we were therefore obliged to make one day double to +prevent finding ourselves wrong in our dates and days on our arrival in +England. Melbourne is about ten hours before London, and therefore +night, and day are reversed. +</P> + +<P> +Rapidly it became cooler, for the winds were rather contrary, and drove +us much farther south than was needed. We were glad to avail +ourselves of our opossum rugs to keep ourselves warm. One of these rugs +is quite sufficient covering of a night in the coldest weather, and +imparts as much heat as a dozen blankets. They are made from the skins +of the opossums, sewn together by the natives with the sinews of the +same animal. Each skin is about twelve inches by eight, or smaller; and +as the rugs are generally very large, they contain sometimes as many as +eighty skins. They may be tastefully arranged, as there is a great +difference in the colours; some being like a rich sable, others nearly +black, and others again of a grey and light brown. The fur is long and +silky. At one time a rug of this description was cheap enough—perhaps +as much as two sovereigns but the great demand for them by diggers, +&c., has made them much more scarce, and it now requires a ten +pound-note to get a good one. The best come from Van Diemen's Land. In +summer they are disagreeable, as they harbour insects. +</P> + +<P> +However, whilst rounding Cape Horn, in the coldest weather I ever +experienced, we were only too happy to throw them over us +during the nights. +</P> + +<P> +One morning we were awakened by a great confusion on deck. Our ship was +ploughing through a quantity of broken ice. That same afternoon, we +sighted an immense iceberg about ten miles from us. Its size may be +imagined from the fact, that, although we were sailing at a rate of ten +knots an hour, we kept it in sight till dark. This was on the 3rd of +December. +</P> + +<P> +We soon rounded the Horn, and had some very rough weather. One of the +sailors fell off the jib-boom; and the cry of "man overboard" made our +hearts beat with horror. Every sail was on; we were running right +before the wind, and the waves were mountains high, a boat must have +been swamped; and long before we could "bout ship", he had sunk to +rise no more. +</P> + +<P> +After rounding Cape Horn, we made rapid progress; by Christmas Day, we +were in the Tropics. It was not kept with much joviality, for water and +food were running scarce. Provisions were so dear in Melbourne, +that they had laid in a short allowance of everything, and our captain +had not anticipated half so many passengers. We tried, therefore, to +put into St. Helena, but contrary winds preventing us, we sailed back +again to the South American coast, and anchored off Pernambuco. It was +providential that economical intentions made our captain prefer this +port, for had we touched at Rio, we should have encountered the yellow +fever, which we afterwards heard was raging there. +</P> + +<P> +Pernambuco is apparently a very pretty place. We were anchored about +four miles from the town, so had a good view of the coast. I longed to +be on shore to ramble beneath the elegant cocoa-nut-trees. The weather +was intensely hot, for it was in the commencement of January; and the +boats full of fruit, sent from the shore for sale, were soon emptied by +us. I call them boats, but they are properly termed catamarans. They +are made of logs of wood lashed securely together; they have a sail and +oars but no sides, so the water rushes over, and threatens +every moment to engulf the frail conveyance; but no, the wood is too +light for that. The fruits brought us from shore were oranges, +pine-apples, water-melons, limes, bananas, cocoa-nuts, &c., and some +yams, which were a good substitute for potatoes. The fruit was all very +good, and astonishingly cheap; our oranges being green, lasted till we +reached England. Some of our passengers went on shore, and returned +with marvellous accounts of the dirtiness and narrowness of the +streets, and the extremely NATURAL costume of the natives. +</P> + +<P> +We remained here about four days, and then, with favourable winds, +pursued our voyage at an average rate of ten or twelve knots an hour. +As we neared the English coast, our excitement increased to an awful +height; and for those who had been many years away, I can imagine every +trivial delay was fraught with anxiety. +</P> + +<P> +But we come in sight of land; and in spite of the cold weather, for it +is now February, 1853, every one rushes to the deck. On we go; +at last we are in the Downs, and then the wind turned right against us. +</P> + +<P> +Boats were put off from the Deal beach. The boatmen there rightly +calculated that lucky gold-diggers wouldn't mind paying a pound a-piece +to get ashore, so they charged that, and got plenty of customers +notwithstanding. +</P> + +<P> +On Sunday, the 27th of February, I again set foot on my native land. It +was evening when we reached the shore, and there was only an open +vehicle to convey us to the town of Deal itself. The evening was +bitterly cold, and the snow lay upon the ground. As we proceeded along, +the sounds of the Sabbath bell broke softly on the air. No greeting +could have been more pleasing or more congenial to my feelings. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap18"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Chapter XVIII. +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CONCLUSION +</H3> + +<P> +As I trust that, in the foregoing pages, I have slightly interested my +readers in "our party," the following additional account of their +movements, contained in letters addressed to me by my brother, may not +be quite uninteresting. +</P> + +<P> +The Ovens diggings are on the river of the same name, which takes its +rise in the Australian Alps, and flows into the Murray. As these Alps +separate New South Wales from Victoria, these diggings belong to the +latter province. They are about forty miles from the town of +Albury. They are spread over a large space of ground. The principal +localities are Spring and Reid's Creeks. +</P> + +<P> +Now for the letters. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Melbourne, January 5, 1853. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"My dear E—, +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"You'll be surprised at the heading of this but the Ovens are not to my +taste, and I'm off again with Frank and Octavius to Bendigo tomorrow. I +suppose you'll like to hear of our adventures up to the Ovens, and the +reasons for this sudden change of plans. We left Melbourne the Monday +after you sailed, and camped out half-way to Kilmore, a little beyond +the 'Lady of the Lake.' The day was fine, but the dust made us +wretched. Next day, we reached Kilmore—stopped there all night. Next +day on again, and the farther we went, the more uncivilized it +became—hills here, forests there, as wild and savage as any one could +desire. It was 'bushing it' with a vengeance. This lasted several days. +Once we lost our road, and came, by good luck, to a sort of +station. They received us very hospitably, and set us right next +morning. Four days after, we came to the Goulburn river. There was a +punt to take us over, and a host of people (many from Bendigo) waiting +to cross. Three days after, we pitched out tents at the Ovens. Here I +soon saw it was no go. There was too much water, and too little gold; +and even if they could knock the first difficulty on the head, I don't +think they could do the same to the second. In my own mind, I think it +impossible that the Ovens will ever turn out the second Bendigo that +many imagine. Hundreds differ from me, therefore it's hundreds to one +that I'm wrong. The average wages, as far as I can judge, are an ounce +a-week; some much more, many much less. We did not attempt digging +ourselves. Eagle Hawk shallowness has spoilt us, for not even Octavius +(who, you know of old, was a harder worker than either Frank or self) +thinks it worth digging through fourteen or sixteen feet of +hard clay for the mere pleasure of exercising our limbs. Provisions +there were not at the high price that many supposed they would be, but +quite high enough, Heaven knows! Meat was very scarce and bad, and +flour all but a shilling a pound; and if the fresh arrivals keep +flocking in, and no greater supply of food, it will get higher still. +We stayed there two weeks, then brought our dray back again, and are +now busy getting ready for a fresh start to Bendigo. Among other things +we shall take, are lemonade and ginger-beer powders, a profitable +investment, though laughable. The weather is very hot—fancy 103 degrees +in the shade. Water is getting scarce." +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +* * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Have seen all our friends in Melbourne except Richard, who left for +England a fortnight ago. Jessie is well, and growing quite pretty. She +says she is extremely happy, and sends such a number of +messages to you, that I'll write none, for fear of making a mistake. +Will write again soon." +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +* * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Your affectionate brother, in haste,<BR> + "——"<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Melbourne, April 17, 1853. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"My dear E——, +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"I suppose you've thought I was buried in my hole, or 'kilt' by +bushrangers in the Black Forest; but I've been so occupied in the +worship of Mammon, as to have little thoughts for anything else. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +* * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"We made a good thing of our last two speculations. Ginger-beer and +lemonade, or lemon kali, at sixpence a tiny glass, paid well. A +successful digger would drink off a dozen one after another. Some days, +we have taken ten pounds in sixpences at this fun. What they +bought of us wouldn't harm them, but many mix up all sorts of injurious +articles to sell; but our consciences, thank God! are not colonised +sufficiently for that. We have had steady good luck in the digging line +(for we combine everything), and after this next trip, mean to dissolve +partnership. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +* * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Octavius talks of going out as overseer, or something of that sort, to +some squatter in New South Wales for a year or so, just to learn the +system, &c., and then, if possible, take a sheep-run himself. Frank +means to send for Mrs. Frank and small Co. He says he shall stay in +Victoria for some years. I do believe he likes the colony. As for +myself, I hope to see the last of it in six weeks' time. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +* * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Hurrah for Old England!—no place like it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +* * * * * +</P> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"Your very affectionate brother, + "——"<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +With a cordial assent to the last few words, I conclude these pages. +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<BR><BR> + +<A NAME="appendix"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX +</H3> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE? +</H4> + +<P> +The question of "Who should emigrate?" has now become one of such +importance (owing to the number who are desirous of quitting their +native land to seek a surer means of subsistence in our vast colonial +possessions), that any book treating of Australia would be sadly +deficient were a subject of such universal interest to be left +unnoticed; and where there are so many of various capabilities, means +and dispositions, in need of guidance and advice as to the advantage +of their emigrating, it is probable that the experience of any one, +however slight that experience may be, will be useful to some. +</P> + +<P> +Any one to succeed in the colonies must take with him a quantity of +self-reliance, energy, and perseverance; this is the best capital a man +can have. Let none rely upon introductions—they are but useless things +at the best—they may get you invited to a good dinner; but now that +fresh arrivals in Melbourne are so much more numerous than heretofore, +I almost doubt if they would do even that. A quick, clever fellow with +a trade of his own, inured to labour, and with a light heart, that can +laugh at the many privations which the gipsy sort of life he must lead +in the colonies will entail upon him; any one of this description +cannot fail to get on. But for the number of clerks, shopmen, &c., who +daily arrive in Australia, there is a worse chance of their gaining a +livelihood than if they had remained at home. With this description of +labour the colonial market is largely overstocked; and it is +distressing to notice the number of young men incapable of +severe manual labour, who, with delicate health, and probably still +more delicately filled purses, swarm the towns in search of employment, +and are exposed to heavy expenses which they can earn nothing to meet. +Such men have rarely been successful at the diggings; the demand for +them in their accustomed pursuits is very limited in proportion to +their numbers; they gradually sink into extreme poverty—too often into +reckless or criminal habits—till they disappear from the streets to +make way for others similarly unfortunate. +</P> + +<P> +A little while since I met with the histories of two individuals +belonging to two very different classes of emigrants; and they are so +applicable to this subject, that I cannot forbear repeating them. +</P> + +<P> +The first account is that of a gentleman who went to Melbourne some +eight months ago, carrying with him a stock of elegant acquirements and +accomplishments, but little capital. He is now in a starving condition, +almost with-out the hope of extrication, and is imploring from +his friends the means to return to England, if he live long enough to +receive them. The colours in which he paints the colonies are +deplorable in the extreme. +</P> + +<P> +The other account is that of a compositor who emigrated much about the +same time. He writes to his former office-mates that he got immediate +and constant employment at the rate of 7 pounds per week, and naturally +thinks that there is no place under the sun like Melbourne. Both +emigrants are right. There is no better place under the sun than +Melbourne for those who can do precisely what the Melbourne people +want; and which they must and will have at any price; but there is no +worse colony to which those can go who have not the capabilities +required by the Melbourne people. They are useless and in the way, +their accomplishments are disregarded, their misfortunes receive no +pity; and, whilst a good carpenter or bricklayer would make a fortune, +a modern Raphael might starve. +</P> + +<P> +But even those possessed of every qualification for making first-class +colonists, will at first meet with much to surprise and annoy them, and +will need all the energy they possess, to enable them to overcome the +many disagreeables which encounter them as soon as they arrive. +</P> + +<P> +Let us, for example, suppose the case of an emigrant, with no +particular profession or business, but having a strong constitution, +good common sense, and a determination to bear up against every +hardship, so that in the end it leads him to independence. Let us +follow him through the difficulties that bewilder the stranger in +Melbourne during the first few days of his arrival. +</P> + +<P> +The commencement of his dilemmas will be that of getting his luggage +from the ship; and so quickly do the demands for pounds and shillings +fall upon him, that he is ready to wish he had pitched half his "traps" +over-board. However, we will suppose him at length safely landed on the +wharf at Melbourne, with all his boxes beside him. He inquires +for a store, and learns that there are plenty close at hand; and then +forgetting that he is in the colonies, he looks round for a porter and +truck, and looks in vain. After waiting as patiently as he can for +about a couple of hours, he manages to hire an empty cart and driver; +the latter lifts the boxes into the conveyance (expecting, of course, +his employer to lend a hand), smacks his whip, and turns down street +after street till he reaches a tall, grim-looking budding, in front of +which he stops, with a "That ere's a store," and a demand for a +sovereign, more or less. This settled, he coolly requests the emigrant +to assist him in unloading, and leaves him to get his boxes carried +inside as best he can. Perhaps some of the storekeeper's men come to +the rescue, and with their help the luggage is conveyed into the +store-room (which is often sixty or eighty feet in length), where the +owner receives a memorandum of their arrival. Boxes or parcels may +remain there in perfect safety for months, so long as a +shilling a week is paid for each. +</P> + +<P> +Our emigrant, having left his property in security, now turns to seek a +lodging for himself; and the extreme difficulty of procuring house +accommodation, with its natural consequences, an extraordinary rate of +rent, startles and amazes him. He searches the city in vain, and +betakes himself to the suburbs, where he procures a small, +half-furnished room, in a wooden house for thirty shillings a week. The +scarcity of houses in proportion to the population, is one of the +greatest drawbacks to the colony; but we could not expect it to be +otherwise when we remember that in one year Victoria received an +addition of nearly 80,000 inhabitants. The masculine portion of these +emigrants, with few exceptions, started off at once to the diggings; +hence the deficiency in the labour market is only partially filled up +by the few who remained behind, and by the fewer still who forsake the +gold-fields; whilst the abundance of money, and the deficiency of good +workmen, have raised the expenses of building far above the +point at which it would be a profitable investment for capital. +Meantime, the want is only partially supplied by the wooden cottages +which are daily springing up around the boundaries of the city; but +this is insufficient to meet the increasing want of shelter, and on the +southern bank of the Yarra there are four or five thousand people +living in tents. This settlement is appropriately called "Canvas Town." +</P> + +<P> +But let us return to our newly-arrived emigrant. +</P> + +<P> +Having succeeded in obtaining a lodging, he proceeds to purchase some +necessary articles of food, and looks incredulously at the shopkeeper +when told that butter is 3s. 6d. a pound, cheese, ham, or bacon 2s. to +2s. 6d., and eggs 4s. or 5s. a dozen. He wisely dispenses with such +luxuries, and contents himself with bread at 1s. 6d. the four-pound +loaf, and meat at 5d. a pound. He sleeps soundly, for the day has been +a fatiguing one, and next morning with renewed spirits determines to +search immediately for employment. He does not much care what it is at +first, so that he earns something; for his purse feels considerably +lighter after the many demands upon it yesterday. Before an hour is +over, he finds himself engaged to a storekeeper at a rate of three +pounds a-week; his business being to load and unload drays, roll +casks, lift heavy goods, &c.; and here we will leave him, for once set +going he will soon find a better berth. If he have capital, it is +doubtless safely deposited in the Bank until a little acquaintance with +the colonies enables him to invest it judiciously; and meanwhile, if wise, +he will spend every shilling as though it were his last; but if his +capital consists only of the trifle in his purse, no matter, the way he +is setting to work will soon rectify that deficiency, and he stands a +good chance in a few years of returning to England a comparatively +wealthy man. +</P> + +<P> +To those of my own sex who desire to emigrate to Australia, I say do so +by all means, if you can go under suitable protection, possess +good health, are not fastidious or "fine-lady-like," can milk cows, +churn butter, cook a good damper, and mix a pudding. The worst risk you +run is that of getting married, and finding yourself treated with +twenty times the respect and consideration you may meet with in +England. Here (as far as number goes) women beat the "lords of +creation;" in Australia it is the reverse, and, there we may be pretty +sure of having our own way. +</P> + +<P> +But to those ladies who cannot wait upon themselves, and whose fair +fingers are unused to the exertion of doing anything useful, my advice +is, for your own sakes remain at home. Rich or poor, it is all the +same; for those who can afford to give 40 pounds a-year to a female +servant will scarcely know whether to be pleased or not at the +acquisition, so idle and impertinent are they; scold them, and they will +tell you that "next week Tom, or Bill, or Harry will be back from the +diggings, and then they'll be married, and wear silk dresses, and be as +fine a lady as yourself;" and with some such words will coolly dismiss +themselves from your service, leaving their poor unfortunate mistress +uncertain whether to be glad of their departure or ready to cry because +there's nothing prepared for dinner, and she knows not what to set +about first. +</P> + +<P> +For those who wish to invest small sums in goods for Australia, boots +and shoes, cutlery, flash jewellery, watches, pistols (particularly +revolvers), gunpowder, fancy articles, cheap laces, and baby-linen +offer immense profits. +</P> + +<P> +The police in Victoria is very inefficient, both in the towns and on +the roads. Fifteen persons were stopped during the same afternoon +whilst travelling on the highway between Melbourne and St. Kilda. They +were robbed, and tied to trees within sight of each other—this too in +broad daylight. On the roads to the diggings it is still worse; and no +one intending to turn digger should leave England without a good supply +of fire-arms. In less than one week more than a dozen robberies +occurred between Kyneton and Forest Creek, two of which terminated in +murder. The diggings themselves are comparatively safe—quite as much +so as Melbourne itself—and there is a freemasonry in the bush which +possesses an irresistible charm for adventurous bachelors, and causes +them to prefer the risk of bushrangers to witnessing the dreadful +scenes that are daily and hourly enacting in a colonial town. Life in +the bush is wild, free and independent. Healthy exercise, fine scenery, +and a clear and buoyant atmosphere, maintain an excitement of the +spirits and a sanguineness of temperament peculiar to this sort of +existence; and many are the pleasant evenings, enlivened with the gay +jest or cheerful song, which are passed around the bush fires of +Australia. +</P> + +<P> +The latest accounts from the diggings speak of them most encouragingly. +Out of a population of 200,000 (which is calculated to be the number of +the present inhabitants of Victoria), half are said to be at the +gold-fields, and the average earnings are still reckoned at +nearly an ounce per man per week. Ballarat is again rising into favour, +and its riches are being more fully developed. The gold there is more +unequally distributed than at Mount Alexander, and therefore the +proportion of successful to unsuccessful diggers is not so great as at +the latter place. But then the individual gains are in some cases +greater. The labour is also more severe than at the Mount or Bendigo, +as the gold lies deeper, and more numerous trials have to be made +before the deposits are struck upon. +</P> + +<P> +The Ovens is admitted to be a rich gold-field, but the work there is +severely laborious, owing to a super-abundance of water. +</P> + +<P> +The astonishing mineral wealth of Mount Alexander is evidenced by the +large amounts which it continues to yield, notwithstanding the immense +quantities that have already been taken from it. The whole country in +that neighbourhood appears to be more or less auriferous. +</P> + +<P> +Up to the close of last year the total supposed amount of gold procured +from the Victoria diggings, is 3,998,324 ounces, which, when calculated +at the average English value of 4 pounds an ounce, is worth nearly SIXTEEN +MILLIONS STERLING. One-third of this is distinctly authenticated as +having come down by escort during the three last mouths of 1852. +</P> + +<P> +In Melbourne the extremes of wealth and poverty meet, and many are the +anecdotes of the lavish expenditure of successful diggers that are +circulated throughout the town. I shall only relate two which fell +under my own observation. +</P> + +<P> +Having occasion to make a few purchases in the linen drapery line, I +entered a good establishment in Collins Street for that purpose. It was +before noon, for later in the day the shops are so full that to get a +trifling order attended to would be almost a miracle. There was only +one customer in the shop, who was standing beside the counter, gazing +with extreme dissatisfaction upon a quantity of goods of various +colours and materials that lay there for his inspection. He was +a rough-looking customer enough, and the appearance of his hands gave +strong indication that the pickaxe and spade were among the last tools +he had handled. +</P> + +<P> +"It's a SHINY thing that I want," he was saying as I entered. +</P> + +<P> +"These are what we should call shining goods," said the shopman, as he +held up the silks, alpacas, &c., to the light. +</P> + +<P> +"They're not the SHINY sort that I want," pursued the digger, +half-doggedly, half-angrily. "I'll find another shop; I guess you won't +show your best goods to me—you think, mayhap, I can't pay for them—but +I can, though," and he laid a note for fifty pounds upon the counter, +adding, "maybe you'll show me some SHINY stuff now!" +</P> + +<P> +Unable to comprehend the wishes of his customer, the shopman called to +his assistance the master of the establishment, who being, I suppose, +of quicker apprehension, placed some satins before him. +</P> + +<P> +"I thought the paper would help you find it. I want a gown for my +missus. What's the price?" +</P> + +<P> +"Twenty yards at one-ten—thirty pounds. That do, Sir?" +</P> + +<P> +"No; not good enough!" was the energetic reply. +</P> + +<P> +The shrewd shopkeeper quickly fathomed his customer's desires, and now +displayed before him a rich orange-coloured satin, which elicited an +exclamation of delight. +</P> + +<P> +"Twenty-five yards—couldn't sell less, it's a remnant—at three pounds +the yard." +</P> + +<P> +"That's the go!" interrupted the digger, throwing some more notes upon +the counter. "My missus was married in a cotton gown, and now she'll +have a real gold 'un!" +</P> + +<P> +And seizing the satin from the shopkeeper, he twisted up the portion +that had been unrolled for his inspection, placed the whole under his +arm, and triumphantly walked out of the shop, little thinking how he +had been cheated. +</P> + +<P> +"A 'lucky digger' that," observed the shopman, as he attended to my +wants. +</P> + +<P> +I could not forbear a smile, for I pictured to myself the digger's wife +mixing a damper with the sleeves of her dazzling satin dress tucked up +above her elbows. +</P> + +<P> +A few days after, a heavy shower drove me to take shelter in a +pastry-cook's, where, under the pretence of eating a bun, I escaped a +good drenching. Hardly had I been seated five minutes, when a +sailor-looking personage entered, and addressed the shopwoman with: +"I'm agoing to be spliced to-morrow, young woman; show us some large +wedding-cakes." +</P> + +<P> +The largest (which was but a small one) was placed before him, and +eighteen pounds demanded for it. He laid down four five-pound notes +upon the counter, and taking up the cake, told her to "keep the change +to buy ribbons with." +</P> + +<P> +"Pleasant to have plenty of gold-digging friends," I remarked, by way +of saying something. +</P> + +<P> +"Not a friend," said she, smiling. "I never saw him before. I expect +he's only a successful digger." +</P> + +<P> +Turn we now to the darker side of this picture. +</P> + +<P> +My favourite walk, whilst in Melbourne, was over Prince's Bridge, and +along the road to Liardet's Beach, thus passing close to the canvas +settlement, called Little Adelaide. One day, about a week before we +embarked for England, I took my accustomed walk in this direction, and +as I passed the tents, was much struck by the appearance of a little +girl, who, with a large pitcher in her arms, came to procure some water +from a small stream beside the road. Her dress, though clean and neat, +bespoke extreme poverty; and her countenance had a wan, sad expression +upon it which would have touched the most indifferent beholder, and +left an impression deeper even than that produced by her extreme though +delicate beauty. +</P> + +<P> +I made a slight attempt at acquaintanceship by assisting to +fill her pitcher, which was far too heavy, when full of water, for so +slight a child to carry, and pointing to the rise of ground on which +the tents stood, I inquired if she lived among them. +</P> + +<P> +She nodded her head in token of assent. +</P> + +<P> +"And have you been long here? and do you like this new country?" I +continued, determined to hear if her voice was as pleasing as her +countenance. +</P> + +<P> +"No!" she answered quickly; "we starve here. There was plenty of food +when we were in England;" and then her childish reserve giving way, she +spoke more fully of her troubles, and a sad though a common tale it +was. +</P> + +<P> +Some of the particulars I learnt afterwards. Her father had held an +appointment under Government, and had lived upon the income derived +from it for some years, when he was tempted to try and do better in the +colonies. His wife (the daughter of a clergyman, well educated, and who +before her marriage had been a governess) accompanied him with +their three children. On arriving in Melbourne (which was about three +months previous), he found that situations equal in value, according to +the relative prices of food and lodging, to that which he had thrown up +in England were not so easily procured as he had been led to expect. +Half desperate, he went to the diggings, leaving his wife with little +money, and many promises of quick remittances of gold by the escort. +But week followed week, and neither remittances nor letters came. They +removed to humbler lodgings, every little article of value was +gradually sold, for, unused to bodily labour, or even to sit for hours +at the needle, the deserted wife could earn but little. Then sickness +came; there were no means of paying for medical advice, and one child +died. After this, step by step, they became poorer, until half a tent +in Little Adelaide was the only refuge left. +</P> + +<P> +As we reached it, the little girl drew aside the canvas, and partly +invited me to enter. I glanced in; it was a dismal sight. In +one corner lay the mother, a blanket her only protection from the humid +soil, and cowering down beside her was her other child. I could not +enter; it seemed like a heartless intrusion upon misery; so, slipping +the contents of my purse (which were unfortunately only a few +shillings) into the little, girl's hand, I hurried away, scarcely +waiting to notice the smile that thanked me so eloquently. On arriving +at home, I found that my friends were absent, and being detained by +business, they did not return till after dusk, so it was impossible for +that day to afford them any assistance. Early next morning we took a +little wine and other trifling articles with us, and proceeded to +Little Adelaide. On entering the tent, we found that the sorrows of the +unfortunate mother were at an end; privation, ill health and anxiety had +claimed their victim. Her husband sat beside the corpse, and the golden +nuggets, which in his despair he had flung upon the ground, formed a +painful contrast to the scene of poverty and death. +</P> + +<P> +The first six weeks of his career at the diggings had been most +unsuccessful, and he had suffered as much from want as his unhappy +wife. Then came a sudden change of fortune, and in two weeks more he +was comparatively rich. He hastened immediately to Melbourne, and for a +whole week had sought his family in vain. At length, on the preceding +evening, he found them only in time to witness the last moments of his +wife. +</P> + +<P> +Sad as this history may appear, it is not so sad as many, many others; +for often, instead of returning with gold, the digger is never heard of +more. +</P> + +<P> +In England many imagine that the principal labour at the diggings +consists in stooping to pick up the lumps of gold which lie upon the +ground at their feet, only waiting for some one to take possession of +them. These people, when told of holes being dug in depths of from +seven to forty feet before arriving at the desired metal, look upon +such statements as so many myths, or fancy they are fabricated by the +lucky gold-finders to deter too many others from coming to take +a share of the precious spoil. There was a passenger on board the +vessel which took me to Australia, who held some such opinions as +these, and, although in other respects a sensible man, he used +seriously to believe that every day that we were delayed by contrary +winds he could have been picking up fifty or a hundred pounds worth of +gold had he but been at the diggings. He went to Bendigo the third day +after we landed, stayed there a fortnight, left it in disgust, and +returned to England immediately—poorer than he had started. +</P> + +<P> +This is not an isolated case. Young men of sanguine dispositions read +the startling amounts of gold shipped from the colonies, they think of +the "John Bull Nugget" and other similar prizes, turn a deaf ear when +you speak of blanks, and determinately overlook the vast amount of +labour which the gold diggings have consumed. Whenever I meet with this +class of would-be emigrants, the remarks of an old digger, which I once +over heard, recur to my mind. The conversation at the time was +turned upon the subject of the many young men flocking from the "old +country" to the gold-fields, and their evident unfitness for them. +"Every young man before paying his passage money," said he, "should take +a few days' spell at well-sinking in England; if he can stand that +comfortably, the diggings won't hurt him." +</P> + +<P> +Many are sadly disappointed on arriving in Victoria, at being unable to +invest their capital or savings in the purchase of about a hundred +acres of land, sufficient for a small farm. I have referred to this +subject before, but cannot resist adding some facts which bear upon it. +</P> + +<P> +By a return of the LAND SALES of Victoria, from 1837 to 1851, it +appears that 380,000 acres of land were sold in the whole colony; and +the sum realized by Government was 700,000 pounds. In a return published +in 1849, it is stated that there were THREE persons who each held singly +more land in their own hands than had been sold to all the rest of the +colony in fourteen years, for which they paid the sum of 30 pounds +each per annum. Yet, whilst 700,000 pounds is realized by the sale of +land, and not 100 pounds a-year gained by LETTING three times the +quantity, the Colonial Government persists in the latter course, in spite +of the reiterated disapprobation of the colonists themselves; and by one +of the last gazettes of Governor La Trobe, he has ordered 681,700 acres, +or 1,065 square miles, to be given over to the squatters. The result of +this is, that many emigrants landing in Victoria are compelled to turn +their steps towards the sister colony of Adelaide. There was a family +who landed in Melbourne whilst I was there. It consisted of the +parents, and several grown-up sons and daughters. The father had held a +small tenant farm in England, and having saved a few hundreds, +determined to invest it in Australian land. He brought out with him +many agricultural implements, an iron house, &c.; and on his arrival +found, to his dismay, that no less than 640 acres of crown lands could +be sold, at a time, at the upset price of one pound an acre. This was +more than his capital could afford, and they left for Adelaide. The +expenses of getting his goods to and from the ships, of storing them, +of supporting his family while in Melbourne, and of paying their +passage to Adelaide, amounted almost to 100 pounds. Thus he lost nearly a +fourth of his capital, and Victoria a family who would have made good +colonists. +</P> + +<P> +Much is done now-a-days to assist emigration, but far greater exertions +are needed before either the demand for labour in the colonies or the +over-supply of it in England can be exhausted. Pass down the best +streets of Melbourne: you see one or two good shops or houses, and on +either side an empty spot or a mass of rubbish. The ground has been +bought, the plans for the proposed budding are all ready. Then why not +commence?—there are no workmen. Bricks are wanted, and 15 pounds a +thousand is offered; carpenters are advertized for at 8 pounds a week; yet +the building makes no progress—there are no workmen. Go down towards the +Yarra, and an unfinished Church will attract attention. Are funds wanting +for its completion? No. Thousands were subscribed in one day, and would +be again were it necessary; but that building, like every other, is +stopped for lack of workmen. In vain the bishop himself published an +appeal to the various labourers required offering the very highest +wages; others offered higher wages still, and the church (up to the +time I left Victoria) remained unfinished. And yet, whilst labour +is so scarce, so needed in the colonies, there are thousands in our own +country ABLE AND WILLING TO WORK, whose lives here are one of prolonged +privation, whose eyes are never gladdened by the sight of nature, who +inhale no purer atmosphere than the tainted air of the dark courts and +dismal cellars in which they herd. Send them to the colonies—food and +pure air would at least be theirs—and much misery would be turned into +positive happiness. +</P> + +<P> +I heard of a lady who every year sent out a whole family from +the poor but hard-working classes to the colonies (it was through one +of the objects of her thoughtful benevolence that this annual act +became known to me), and what happiness must it bring when she reflects +on the heartfelt blessings that are showered upon her from the far-off +land of Australia. Surely, among the rich and the influential, there +are many who, out of the abundance of their wealth, could "go and do +likewise." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<P CLASS="finis"> +THE END. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of +Australia in 1852-53., by Mrs. Charles (Ellen) Clacey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LADY'S VISIT TO GOLD DIGGINGS *** + +***** This file should be named 4054-h.htm or 4054-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/5/4054/ + +Produced by Col. Choat. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852-53. + +Author: Mrs. Charles (Ellen) Clacey + +Posting Date: June 29, 2009 [EBook #4054] +Release Date: May, 2003 +First Posted: October 22, 2001 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LADY'S VISIT TO GOLD DIGGINGS *** + + + + +Produced by Col. Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + +A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852-53 + + +by + +Mrs Charles (Ellen) Clacy + + + + + +CONTENTS + + + Chapter I. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS + Chapter II. THE VOYAGE OUT + Chapter III. STAY IN MELBOURNE + Chapter IV. CAMPING UP--MELBOURNE TO THE BLACK FOREST + Chapter V. CAMPING UP--BLACK FOREST TO EAGLE HAWK GULLY + Chapter VI. THE DIGGINGS + Chapter VII. EAGLE HAWK GULLY + Chapter VIII. AN ADVENTURE + Chapter IX. HARRIETTE WALTERS + Chapter X. IRONBARK GULLY + Chapter XI. FOREST CREEK + Chapter XII. RETURN TO MELBOURNE + Chapter XIII. BALLARAT + Chapter XIV. NEW SOUTH WALES + Chapter XV. SOUTH AUSTRALIA + Chapter XVI. MELBOURNE AGAIN + Chapter XVII. HOMEWARD BOUND + Chapter XVIII. CONCLUSION + APPENDIX. WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE? + + + + + +Chapter I. + +INTRODUCTORY REMARKS + + +It may be deemed presumptuous that one of my age and sex should venture +to give to the public an account of personal adventures in a land which +has so often been descanted upon by other and abler pens; but when I +reflect on the many mothers, wives, and sisters in England, whose +hearts are ever longing for information respecting the dangers and +privations to which their relatives at the antipodes are exposed, +I cannot but hope that the presumption of my undertaking may be +pardoned in consideration of the pleasure which an accurate description +of some of the Australian Gold Fields may perhaps afford to many; and +although the time of my residence in the colonies was short, I had the +advantage (not only in Melbourne, but whilst in the bush) of constant +intercourse with many experienced diggers and old colonists--thus +having every facility for acquiring information respecting Victoria and +the other colonies. + +It was in the beginning of April, 185-, that the excitement +occasioned by the published accounts of the Victoria "Diggings," +induced my brother to fling aside his Homer and Euclid for the various +"Guides" printed for the benefit of the intending gold-seeker, or to +ponder over the shipping columns of the daily papers. The love of +adventure must be contagious, for three weeks after (so rapid were our +preparations) found myself accompanying him to those auriferous +regions. The following pages will give an accurate detail of my +adventures there--in a lack of the marvellous will consist their +principal faults but not even to please would I venture to turn +uninteresting truth into agreeable fiction. Of the few statistics which +occur, I may safely say, as of the more personal portions, that they +are strictly true. + + + + +Chapter II. + +THE VOYAGE OUT + + +Everything was ready--boxes packed, tinned, and corded; farewells +taken, and ourselves whirling down by rail to Gravesend--too much +excited--too full of the future to experience that sickening of the +heart, that desolation of the feelings, which usually accompanies an +expatriation, however voluntary, from the dearly loved shores of one's +native land. Although in the cloudy month of April, the sun shone +brightly on the masts of our bonny bark, which lay in full sight of the +windows of the "Old Falcon," where we had taken up our temporary +quarters. The sea was very rough, but as we were anxious to get +on board without farther delay, we entrusted our valuable lives in a +four-oared boat, despite the dismal prognostications of our worthy +host. A pleasant row that was, at one moment covered over with +salt-water--the next riding on the top of a wave, ten times the size +of our frail conveyance--then came a sudden concussion--in veering +our rudder smashed into a smaller boat, which immediately filled and +sank, and our rowers disheartened at this mishap would go no farther. +The return was still rougher--my face smarted dreadfully from the +cutting splashes of the salt-water; they contrived, however, to land us +safely at the "Old Falcon," though in a most pitiable plight; charging +only a sovereign for this delightful trip--very moderate, considering +the number of salt-water baths they had given us gratis. In the evening +a second trial proved more successful, and we reached our vessel +safely. + +A first night on board ship has in it something very strange, and the +first awakening in the morning is still more so. To find oneself in a +space of some six feet by eight, instead of a good-sized room, and +lying in a cot, scarce wide enough to turn round in, as a +substitute for a four-post bedstead, reminds you in no very agreeable +manner that you have exchanged the comforts of Old England for the +"roughing it" of a sea life. The first sound that awoke me was the +"cheerily" song of the sailors, as the anchor was heaved--not again, +we trusted, to be lowered till our eyes should rest on the waters of +Port Philip. And then the cry of "raise tacks and sheets" (which I, in +nautical ignorance, interpreted "hay-stacks and sheep") sent many a +sluggard from their berths to bid a last farewell to the banks of the +Thames. + +In the afternoon we parted company with our steam-tug, and next +morning, whilst off the Isle of Wight, our pilot also took his +departure. Sea-sickness now became the fashion, but, as I cannot speak +from experience of its sensations, I shall altogether decline the +subject. On Friday, the 30th, we sighted Stark Point; and as the last +speck of English land faded away in the distance, an intense feeling of +misery crept over me, as I reflected that perchance I had left those +most dear to return to them no more. But I forget; a description of +private feelings is, to uninterested readers, only so much +twaddle, besides being more egotistical than even an account of +personal adventures could extenuate; so, with the exception of a few +extracts from my "log," I shall jump at once from the English Channel +to the more exciting shores of Victoria. + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 5, lat. 45 degrees 57 minutes N., long. 11 degrees 45 +minutes W.--Whilst off the Bay of Biscay, for the first time I had the +pleasure of seeing the phosphoric light in the water, and the effect was +indeed too beautiful to describe. I gazed again and again, and, as the +darkness above became more dense, the silence of evening more profound, +and the moving lights beneath more brilliant, I could have believed them +the eyes of the Undines, who had quitted their cool grottos beneath the +sea to gaze on the daring ones who were sailing above them. At times one +of these stars of the ocean would seem to linger around our vessel, as +though loth to leave the admiring eyes that watched its glittering +progress.* * * * * + +SUNDAY, 9, lat. 37 degrees 53 minutes N., long. 15 degrees 32 minutes +W.--Great excitement throughout the ship. Early in the morning a +homeward-bound sail hove in sight, and as the sea was very calm, our +captain kindly promised to lower a boat and send letters by her. What a +scene then commenced; nothing but scribes and writing-desks met the view, +and nought was heard but the scratching of pens, and energetic demands for +foreign letter-paper, vestas, or sealing-wax; then came a rush on deck, to +witness the important packet delivered to the care of the first mate, +and watch the progress of the little bark that was to bear among so +many homes the glad tidings of our safety. On she came--her stunsails +set--her white sails glittering in the sun--skimming like a sea-bird +over the waters. She proved to be the Maltese schooner 'Felix,' bound +for Bremen. Her captain treated the visitors from our ship with the +greatest politeness, promised to consign our letters to the first pilot +he should encounter off the English coast, and sent his very last +oranges as a present to the ladies, for which we sincerely thanked him; +the increasing heat of the weather made them acceptable indeed. + +WEDNESDAY, 12, lat. 33 degrees 19 minutes N., long. 17 degrees 30 +minutes W.--At about noon we sighted Madeira. At first it appeared little +more than a dark cloud above the horizon; gradually the sides of the rocks +became clearly discernible, then the wind bore us onward, and soon all +traces of the sunny isle were gone. + +FRIDAY, 28, lat. 4 degrees 2 minutes N., long. 21 degrees 30 minutes +W.--Another opportunity of sending letters, but as this was the second +time of so doing, the excitement was proportionately diminished. This +vessel was bound for the port of Liverpool, from the coast of Africa; +her cargo (so said those of our fellow-travellers who boarded her), +consisted of ebony and gold-dust, her only passengers being monkeys and +parrots. + +SUNDAY, JUNE 6, long. 24 degrees 38 minutes W.--Crossed the Line, to the +great satisfaction of all on board, as we had been becalmed more than a +week, and were weary of gazing upon the unruffled waters around us, or +watching the sails as they idly flapped to and fro. Chess, backgammon, +books and cards, had ceased to beguile the hours away, and the only +amusement left was lowering a boat and rowing about within a short +distance of the ship, but this (even by those not pulling at the oars) +was considered too fatiguing work, for a tropical sun was above us, and +the heat was most intense. Our only resource was to give ourselves up +to a sort of DOLCE FAR NIENTE existence, and lounge upon the +deck, sipping lemonade or lime-juice, beneath a large awning which +extended from the fore to the mizen masts. + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, lat. 39 degrees 28 minutes S., long. 136 degrees 31 +minutes E.--Early this morning one of the sailors died, and before noon +the last services of the Church of England were read over his body; this +was the first and only death that occurred during our long passage, and +the solemnity of committing his last remains to their watery grave cast a +saddening influence over the most thoughtless. I shall never forget the +moment when the sewn-up hammock, with a gaily coloured flag wrapped round +it, was launched into the deep; those who can witness with indifference a +funeral on land, would, I think, find it impossible to resist the +thrilling awe inspired by such an event at sea. + +FRIDAY, 20, lat. 38 degrees 57 minutes S., long. 140 degrees 5 minutes +E.--Sighted Moonlight Head, the next day Cape Otway; and in the afternoon +of Sunday, the 22nd, we entered the Heads, and our pilot came on board. He +was a smart, active fellow, and immediately anchored us within the bay +(a heavy gale brewing); and then, after having done colonial justice to a +substantial dinner, he edified us with the last Melbourne news. "Not a +spare room or bed to be had--no living at all under a pound a-day--every +one with ten fingers making ten to twenty pounds a-week." "Then +of course no one goes to the diggings?" "Oh, that pays better still--the +gold obliged to be quarried--a pound weight of no value." The +excitement that evening can scarcely be imagined, but it somewhat +abated next morning on his telling us to diminish his accounts some 200 +per cent. + +MONDAY, 23.--The wind high, and blowing right against us. Compelled to +remain at anchor, only too thankful to be in such safe quarters. + +TUESDAY, 24.--Got under weigh at half-past seven in the morning, and +passed the wrecks of two vessels, whose captains had attempted to come +in without a pilot, rather than wait for one--the increased number of +vessels arriving, causing the pilots to be frequently all engaged. The +bay, which is truly splendid, was crowded with shipping. In a few hours +our anchor was lowered for the last time--boats were put off +towards our ship from Liardet's Beach--we were lowered into the first +that came alongside--a twenty minutes' pull to the landing-place--another +minute, and we trod the golden shores of Victoria. + + + + +Chapter III. + +STAY IN MELBOURNE + + +At last we are in Australia. Our feet feel strange as they tread upon +TERRA FIRMA, and our SEA-LEGS (to use a sailor's phrase) are not so +ready to leave us after a four months' service, as we should have +anticipated; but it matters little, for we are in the colonies, walking +with undignified, awkward gait, not on a fashionable promenade, but +upon a little wooden pier. + +The first sounds that greet our ears are the noisy tones of some +watermen, who are loitering on the building of wooden logs and boards, +which we, as do the good people of Victoria, dignify with the +undeserved title of PIER. There they stand in their waterproof caps and +skins--tolerably idle and exceedingly independent--with one eye on +the look out for a fare, and the other cast longingly towards the open +doors of Liardet's public-house, which is built a few yards from the +landing-place, and alongside the main road to Melbourne. + +"Ah, skipper! times isn't as they used to was," shouted one, addressing +the captain of one of the vessels then lying in the bay, who was rowing +himself to shore, with no other assistant or companion than a +sailor-boy. The captain, a well-built, fine-looking specimen of an +English seaman, merely laughed at this impromptu salutation. + +"I say, skipper, I don't quite like that d----d stroke of yours." + +No answer; but, as if completely deaf to these remarks, as well as the +insulting tone in which they were delivered, the "skipper" continued +giving his orders to his boy, and then leisurely ascended the steps. He +walked straight up to the waterman, who was lounging against the +railing. + +"So, my fine fellow, you didn't quite admire that stroke of +mine. Now, I've another stroke that I think you'll admire still less," +and with one blow he sent him reeling against the railing on the +opposite side. + +The waterman slowly recovered his equilibrium, muttering, "that was a +safe dodge, as the gentleman knew he was the heaviest man of the two." + +"Then never let your tongue say what your fist can't defend," was the +cool retort, as another blow sent him staggering to his original place, +amidst the unrestrained laughter of his companions, whilst the captain +unconcernedly walked into Liardet's, whither we also betook ourselves, +not a little surprised and amused by this our first introduction to +colonial customs and manners. + +The fact is, the watermen regard the masters of the ships in the bay as +sworn enemies to their business; many are runaway sailors, and +therefore, I suppose, have a natural antipathy that way; added to +which, besides being no customers themselves, the "skippers," by the +loan of their boats, often save their friends from the exorbitant +charges these watermen levy. + +Exorbitant they truly are. Not a boat would they put off for the +nearest ship in the bay for less than a pound, and before I quitted +those regions, two and three times that sum was often demanded for only +one passenger. We had just paid at the rate of only three shillings and +sixpence each, but this trifling charge was in consideration of the +large party--more than a dozen--who had left our ship in the same +boat together. + +Meanwhile we have entered Liardet's EN ATTENDANT the Melbourne omnibus, +some of our number, too impatient to wait longer, had already started +on foot. We were shown into a clean, well-furnished sitting-room, with +mahogany dining-table and chairs, and a showy glass over the +mantelpicce. An English-looking barmaid entered. "Would the company +like some wine or spirits?" Some one ordered sherry, of which I only +remember that it was vile trash at eight shillings a bottle. + +And now the cry of "Here's the bus," brought us quickly outside again, +where we found several new arrivals also waiting for it. I had hoped, +from the name, or rather misname, of the conveyance, to gladden my eyes +with the sight of something civilized. Alas, for my disappointment! +There stood a long, tumble-to-pieces-looking waggon, not covered +in, with a plank down each side to sit upon, and a miserable narrow +plank it was. Into this vehicle were crammed a dozen people and an +innumerable host of portmanteaus, large and small, carpet-bags, +baskets, brown-paper parcels, bird-cage and inmate, &c., all of which, +as is generally the case, were packed in a manner the most calculated +to contribute the largest amount of inconvenience to the live portion +of the cargo. And to drag this grand affair into Melbourne were +harnessed thereto the most wretched-looking objects in the shape of +horses that I had ever beheld. + +A slight roll tells us we are off. + +"And is THIS the beautiful scenery of Australia?" was my first +melancholy reflection. Mud and swamp--swamp and mud--relieved here +and there by some few trees which looked as starved and miserable as +ourselves. The cattle we passed appeared in a wretched condition, and +the human beings on the road seemed all to belong to one family, so +truly Vandemonian was the cast of their countenances. + +"The rainy season's not over," observed the driver, in an +apologetic tone. Our eyes and uneasy limbs most FEELINGLY corroborated +his statement, for as we moved along at a foot-pace, the rolling of the +omnibus, owing to the deep ruts and heavy soil, brought us into most +unpleasant contact with the various packages before-mentioned. On we +went towards Melbourne--now stopping for the unhappy horses to take +breath--then passing our pedestrian messmates, and now arriving at a +small specimen of a swamp; and whilst they (with trowsers tucked high +above the knee and boots well saturated) step, slide and tumble +manfully through it, we give a fearful roll to the left, ditto, ditto +to the right, then a regular stand-still, or perhaps, by way of +variety, are all but jolted over the animals' heads, till at length all +minor considerations of bumps and bruises are merged in the anxiety to +escape without broken bones. + +"The Yarra," said the conductor. I looked straight ahead, and +innocently asked "Where?" for I could only discover a tract of marsh or +swamp, which I fancy must have resembled the fens of Lincolnshire, as +they were some years ago, before draining was introduced into +that county. Over Princes Bridge we now passed, up Swanston Street, +then into Great Bourke Street, and now we stand opposite the +Post-office--the appointed rendezvous with the walkers, who are there +awaiting us. Splashed, wet and tired, and also, I must confess, very +cross, right thankful was I to be carried over the dirty road and be +safely deposited beneath the wooden portico outside the Post-office. +Our ride to Melbourne cost us only half-a-crown a piece, and a shilling +for every parcel. The distance we had come was between two and three +miles. + +The non-arrival of the mail-steamer left us now no other care save the +all-important one of procuring food and shelter. Scouts were +accordingly despatched to the best hotels; they returned with long +faces--"full." The second-rate, and in fact every respectable inn and +boarding or lodging-house were tried but with no better success. Here +and there a solitary bed could be obtained, but for our digging party +entire, which consisted of my brother, four shipmates, and myself, no +accommodation could be procured, and we wished, if possible, to +keep together. "It's a case," ejaculated one, casting his eyes to the +slight roof above us as if calculating what sort of night shelter it +would afford. At this moment the two last searchers approached, their +countenances not quite so woe-begone as before. "Well?" exclaimed we +all in chorus, as we surrounded them, too impatient to interrogate at +greater length. Thank Heavens! they had been successful! The +house-keeper of a surgeon, who with his wife had just gone up to Forest +Creek, would receive us to board and lodge for thirty shillings a week +each; but as the accommodation was of the indifferent order, it was not +as yet UNE AFFAIRE ARRANGEE. On farther inquiry, we found the +indifferent accommodation consisted in their being but one small +sleeping-room for the gentlemen, and myself to share the bed and +apartment of the temporary mistress. This was vastly superior to +gipsying in the dirty streets, so we lost no time in securing our new +berths, and ere very long, with appetites undiminished by these petty +anxieties, we did ample justice to the dinner which our really kind +hostess quickly placed before us. + +The first night on shore after so long a voyage could scarcely +seem otherwise than strange, one missed the eternal rocking at which so +many grumble on board ship. Dogs (Melbourne is full of them) kept up an +incessant barking; revolvers were cracking in all directions until +daybreak, giving one a pleasant idea of the state of society; and last, +not least, of these annoyances was one unmentionable to ears polite, +which would alone have sufficed to drive sleep away from poor wearied +me. How I envied my companion, as accustomed to these disagreeables, +she slept soundly by my side; but morning at length dawned, and I fell +into a refreshing slumber. + +The next few days were busy ones for all, though rather dismal to me, +as I was confined almost entirely within doors, owing to the awful +state of the streets; for in the colonies, at this season of the year, +one may go out prepared for fine weather, with blue sky above, and dry +under foot, and in less than an hour, should a COLONIAL shower come on, +be unable to cross some of the streets without a plank being placed +from the middle of the road to the pathway, or the alternative of +walking in water up to the knees. + +This may seem a doleful and overdrawn picture of my first +colonial experience, but we had arrived at a time when the colony +presented its worst aspect to a stranger. The rainy season had been +unusually protracted this year, in fact it was not yet considered +entirely over, and the gold mines had completely upset everything and +everybody, and put a stop to all improvements about the town or +elsewhere. + +Our party, on returning to the ship the day after our arrival, +witnessed the French-leave-taking of all her crew, who during the +absence of the captain, jumped overboard, and were quickly picked up +and landed by the various boats about. This desertion of the ships by +the sailors is an every-day occurrence; the diggings themselves, or the +large amount they could obtain for the run home from another master, +offer too many temptations. Consequently, our passengers had the +amusement of hauling up from the hold their different goods and +chattels; and so great was the confusion, that fully a week elapsed +before they were all got to shore. Meanwhile we were getting initiated +into colonial prices--money did indeed take to itself wings and fly +away. Fire-arms were at a premium; one instance will suffice--my +brother sold a six-barrelled revolver for which he had given +sixty shillings at Baker's, in Fleet Street, for sixteen pounds, and +the parting with it at that price was looked upon as a great favour. +Imagine boots, and they very second-rate ones, at four pounds a pair. +One of our between-deck passengers who had speculated with a small +capital of forty pounds in boots and cutlery, told me afterwards that +he had disposed of them the same evening he had landed, at a net profit +of ninety pounds--no trifling addition to a poor man's purse. Labour +was at a very high price, carpenters, boot and shoemakers, tailors, +wheelwrights, joiners, smiths, glaziers, and, in fact, all useful +trades, were earning from twenty to thirty shillings a day--the very +men working on the roads could get eleven shillings PER DIEM, and, many +a gentleman in this disarranged state of affairs, was glad to fling old +habits aside and turn his hand to whatever came readiest. I knew one in +particular, whose brother is at this moment serving as colonel in the +army in India, a man more fitted for a gay London life than a residence +in the colonies. The diggings were too dirty and uncivilized for his +taste, his capital was quickly dwindling away beneath the +expenses of the comfortable life he led at one of the best hotels in +town, so he turned to what as a boy he had learnt for amusement, and +obtained an addition to his income of more than four hundred pounds a +year as house carpenter. In the morning you might see him trudging off +to his work, and before night might meet him at some ball or soiree +among the elite of Melbourne. + +I shall not attempt an elaborate description of the town of Melbourne, +or its neighbouring villages. A subject so often and well discussed +might almost be omitted altogether. The town is very well laid out; the +streets (which are all straight, running parallel with and across one +another) are very wide, but are incomplete, not lighted, and many are +unpaved. Owing to the want of lamps, few, except when full moon, dare +stir out after dark. Some of the shops are very fair; but the goods all +partake too largely of the flash order, for the purpose of suiting the +tastes of successful diggers, their wives and families; it is ludicrous +to see them in the shops--men who, before the gold-mines were +discovered, toiled hard for their daily bread, taking off half-a-dozen +thick gold rings from their fingers, and trying to pull on to +their rough, well-hardened hands the best white kids, to be worn at +some wedding party; whilst the wife, proud of the novel ornament, +descants on the folly of hiding them beneath such useless articles as +gloves. + +The two principal streets are Collins Street and Elizabeth Street. The +former runs east and west, the latter crossing it in the centre. +Melbourne is built on two hills, and the view from the top of Collins +Street East, is very striking on a fine day when well filled with +passengers and vehicles. Down the eye passes till it reaches Elizabeth +Street at the foot; then up again, and the moving mass seems like so +many tiny black specks in the distance, and the country beyond looks +but a little piece of green. A great deal of confusion arises from the +want of their names being painted on the corners of the streets: to a +stranger, this is particularly inconvenient, the more so, as being +straight, they appear all alike on first acquaintance. The confusion is +also increased by the same title, with slight variation, being applied +to so many, as, for instance, Collins Street East; Collins Street West; +Little Collins Street East; Little Collins Street West, &c. &c. +Churches and chapels for all sects and denominations meet the eye; but +the Established Church has, of all, the worst provision for its +members, only two small churches being as yet completed; and Sunday +after Sunday do numbers return from St. Peter's, unable to obtain even +standing room beneath the porch. For the gay, there are two circuses +and one theatre, where the "ladies" who frequent it smoke short +tobacco-pipes in the boxes and dress-circle. + +The country round is very pretty, particularly Richmond and +Collingwood; the latter will, I expect, soon become part of Melbourne +itself. It is situated at the fashionable--that is, EAST--end of +Melbourne, and the buildings of the city and this suburban village are +making rapid strides towards each other. Of Richmond, I may remark that +it does possess a "Star and Garter," though a very different affair to +its namesake at the antipodes, being only a small public-house. On the +shores of the bay, at nice driving distances, are Brighton and St. +Kilda. Two or three fall-to-pieces bathing-machines are at present the +only stock in trade of these watering-places; still, should some +would-be fashionables among my readers desire to emigrate, it may +gratify them to learn that they need not forego the pleasure of +visiting Brighton in the season. + +When I first arrived, as the weather was still very cold and wet, my +greatest source of discomfort arose from the want of coal-fires, and +the draughts, which are innumerable, owing to the slight manner in +which the houses are run up; in some the front entrance opens direct +into the sitting-rooms, very unpleasant, and entirely precluding the +"not at home" to an unwelcome visitor. Wood fires have at best but a +cheerless look, and I often longed for the bright blaze and merry +fireside of an English home. Firewood is sold at the rate of fifty +shillings for a good-sized barrow-full. + +The colonists (I here speak of the old-established ones) are naturally +very hospitable, and disposed to receive strangers with great kindness; +but the present ferment has made them forget everything in the glitter +of their own mines, and all comfort is laid aside; money is the idol, +and making it is the one mania which absorbs every other thought. + +The walking inhabitants are of themselves a study: glance into +the streets--all nations, classes, and costumes are represented there. +Chinamen, with pigtails and loose trowsers; Aborigines, with a solitary +blanket flung over them; Vandemonian pickpockets, with cunning eyes and +light fingers--all, in truth, from the successful digger in his blue +serge shirt, and with green veil still hanging round his wide-awake, to +the fashionably-attired, newly-arrived "gent" from London, who stares +around him in amazement and disgust. You may see, and hear too, some +thoroughly colonial scenes in the streets. Once, in the middle of the +day, when passing up Elizabeth Street, I heard the unmistakeable sound +of a mob behind, and as it was gaining upon me, I turned into the +enclosed ground in front of the Roman Catholic cathedral, to keep out +of the way of the crowd. A man had been taken up for horse-stealing and +a rare ruffianly set of both sexes were following the prisoner and the +two policemen who had him in charge. "If but six of ye were of my +mind," shouted one, "it's this moment you'd release him." The crowd +took the hint, and to it they set with right good will, yelling, +swearing, and pushing, with awful violence. The owner of the +stolen horse got up a counter demonstration, and every few yards, the +procession was delayed by a trial of strength between the two parties. +Ultimately the police conquered; but this is not always the case, and +often lives are lost and limbs broken in the struggle, so weak is the +force maintained by the colonial government for the preservation of +order. + +Another day, when passing the Post-office, a regular tropical shower of +rain came on rather suddenly, and I hastened up to the platform for +shelter. As I stood there, looking out into Great Bourke Street, a man +and, I suppose, his wife passed by. He had a letter in his hand for the +post; but as the pathway to the receiving-box looked very muddy, he +made his companion take it to the box, whilst he himself, from beneath +his umbrella, complacently watched her getting wet through. "Colonial +politeness," thought I, as the happy couple walked on. + +Sometimes a jovial wedding-party comes dashing through the streets; +there they go, the bridegroom with one arm round his lady's waist, the +other raising a champagne-bottle to his lips; the gay vehicles +that follow contain company even more unrestrained, and from them +noisier demonstrations of merriment may be heard. These diggers' +weddings are all the rage, and bridal veils, white kid gloves, and, +above all, orange blossoms are generally most difficult to procure at +any price. + +At times, you may see men, half-mad, throwing sovereigns, like +halfpence, out of their pockets into the streets; and I once saw a +digger, who was looking over a large quantity of bank-notes, +deliberately tear to pieces and trample in the mud under his feet every +soiled or ragged one he came to, swearing all the time at the +gold-brokers for "giving him dirty paper money for pure Alexander gold; +he wouldn't carry dirt in his pocket; not he; thank God! he'd plenty to +tear up and spend too." + +Melbourne is very full of Jews; on a Saturday, some of the streets are +half closed. There are only two pawnbrokers in the town. + +The most thriving trade there, is keeping an hotel or public-house, +which always have a lamp before their doors. These at night serve as a +beacon to the stranger to keep as far from them as possible, +they being, with few exceptions, the resort, after dark, of the most +ruffianly characters. + + * * * * * + +On the 2nd of September, the long-expected mail steamer arrived, and +two days after we procured our letters from the Post-office. I may here +remark, that the want of proper management in this department is the +greatest cause of inconvenience to fresh arrivals, and to the +inhabitants of Melbourne generally. There is but ONE SMALL WINDOW, +whence letters directed to lie at the office are given out; and as the +ships from England daily discharged their living cargoes into +Melbourne, the crowd round this inefficient delivering-place rendered +getting one's letters the work, not of hours, but days. Newspapers, +particularly pictorial ones, have, it would appear, a remarkable +facility for being lost EN ROUTE. Several numbers of the "Illustrated +London News" had been sent me, and, although the letters posted with +them arrived in safety, the papers themselves never made their +appearance. I did hear that, when addressed to an uncolonial name, and +with no grander direction than the Post-office itself, the +clerks are apt to apropriate them--this is, perhaps, only a wee bit of +Melbourne scandal. + +The arrival of our letters from England left nothing now to detain us, +and made us all anxious to commence our trip to the diggings, although +the roads were in an awful condition. Still we would delay no longer, +and the bustle of preparation began. Stores of flour, tea, and sugar, +tents and canvas, camp-ovens, cooking utensils, tin plates and +pannikins, opossum rugs and blankets, drays, carts and horses, cradles, +&c. &c., had to be looked at, bought and paid for. + +On board ship, my brother had joined himself to a party of four young +men, who had decided to give the diggings a trial. Four other of our +shipmates had also joined themselves into a digging-party, and when +they heard of our intended departure, proposed travelling up together +and separating on our arrival. This was settled, and a proposal made +that between the two sets they should raise funds to purchase a dray +and horses, and make a speculation in flour, tea, &c., on which an +immense profit was being made at the diggings. It would also +afford the convenience of taking up tents, cradles, and other articles +impossible to carry up without. The dray cost one hundred pounds, and +the two strong cart-horses ninety and one hundred pounds respectively. +This, with the goods themselves, and a few sundries in the shape of +harness and cords, made only a venture of about fifty pounds a-piece. +While these arrangements were rapidly progressing, a few other parties +wished to join ours for safety on the road, which was agreed to, and +the day fixed upon for the departure was the 7th of September. Every +one, except myself, was to walk, and we furthermore determined to "camp +out" as much as possible, and thus avoid the vicinity of the inns and +halting-places on the way, which are frequently the lurking-places of +thieves and bushrangers. + + * * * * * + +On the Sunday previous to the day on which our journey was to commence, +I had a little adventure, which pleased me at the time, though, but for +the sequel, not worth mentioning here. I had walked with my brother and +a friend to St. Peter's Church; but we were a few minutes behind +time, and therefore could find no unoccupied seat. Thus disappointed, +we strolled over Princes Bridge on to the other side of the Yarra. +Between the bridge and the beach, on the south side of the river, is a +little city of tents, called Little Adelaide. They were inhabited by a +number of families, that the rumour of the Victoria gold-mines had +induced to leave South Australia, and whose finances were unequal to +the high prices in Melbourne. + +Government levies a tax of five shillings a week on each tent, built +upon land as wild and barren as the bleakest common in England. We did +not wander this morning towards Little Adelaide; but followed the Yarra +in its winding course inland, in the direction of the Botanical +Gardens. + +Upon a gentle rise beside the river, not far enough away from Melbourne +to be inconvenient, but yet sufficiently removed from its mud and +noise, were pitched two tents, evidently new, with crimson paint still +gay upon the round nobs of the centre posts, and looking altogether +more in trim for a gala day in Merry England than a trip to the +diggings. The sun was high above our heads, and the day +intensely hot; so much so, that I could not resist the temptation of +tapping at the canvas door to ask for a draught of water. A gentleman +obeyed the summons, and on learning the occasion of this unceremonious +visit, politely accommodated me with a camp-stool and some delicious +fresh milk--in Melbourne almost a luxury. Whilst I was imbibing this +with no little relish, my friends were entering into conversation with +our new acquaintance. The tents belonged to a party just arrived by the +steamer from England, with everything complete for the diggings, to +which they meant to proceed in another week, and where I had the +pleasure of meeting them again, though under different and very +peculiar circumstances. The tent which I had invaded was inhabited by +two, the elder of whom, a powerfully-built man of thirty, formed a +strong contrast to his companion, a delicate-looking youth, whose +apparent age could not have exceeded sixteen years. + +After a short rest, we returned to Melbourne, well pleased with our +little adventure. + +The next day was hardly long enough for our numerous preparations, and +it was late before we retired to rest. Six was the hour +appointed for the next morning's breakfast. Excited with anticipating +the adventures to commence on the morrow, no wonder that my dreams +should all be GOLDEN ones. + + + + +Chapter IV. + +CAMPING UP--MELBOURNE TO THE BLACK FOREST + + +The anxiously-expected morning at length commenced, and a +dismal-looking morning it was--hazy and damp, with a small drizzling +rain, which, from the gloomy aspect above, seemed likely to last. It +was not, however, sufficient to damp our spirits, and the appointed +hour found us all assembled to attack the last meal that we anticipated +to make for some time to come beneath the shelter of a ceiling. At +eight o'clock our united party was to start from the "Duke of York" +hotel, and as that hour drew nigh, the unmistakeable signs of +"something up," attracted a few idlers to witness our departure. In +truth, we were a goodly party, and created no little sensation among +the loungers--but I must regularly introduce our troop to my readers. + +First then, I must mention two large drays, each drawn by a pair of +stout horses--one the property of two Germans, who were bound for +Forest Creek, the other belonged to ourselves and shipmates. There were +three pack-horses--one (laden with a speculation in bran) belonged to +a queer-looking sailor, who went by the name of Joe, the other two were +under the care of a man named Gregory, who was going to rejoin his +mates at Eagle Hawk Gully. As his destination was the farthest, and he +was well acquainted with the roads, he ought to have been elected +leader, but from some mis-management that dignity was conferred upon a +stout old gentleman, who had taken a pleasure-trip to Mount Alexander, +the previous summer. + +Starting is almost always a tedious affair, nor was this particular +case an exception. First one had forgotten something--another broke a +strap, and a new one had to be procured--then the dray was not +properly packed, and must be righted--some one else wanted an +extra "nobbler"--then a fresh, and still a fresh delay, so that +although eight was the appointed hour, it was noon ere we bade farewell +to mine host of the "Duke of York." + +At length the word of command was spoken. Foremost came the gallant +captain (as we had dubbed him), and with him two ship doctors, in +partnership together, who carried the signs of their profession along +with them in the shape of a most surgeon-like mahogany box. Then came +the two Germans, complacently smoking their meerschaums, and attending +to their dray and horses, which latter, unlike their masters, were of a +very restless turn of mind. After these came a party of six, among whom +was Gregory and two lively Frenchmen, who kept up an incessant +chattering. Joe walked by himself, leading his pack-horse, then came +our four shipmates, two by two, and last, our own particular five. + +Most carried on their backs their individual property--blankets, +provisions for the road, &c., rolled in a skin, and fastened over the +shoulders by leathern straps. This bundle goes by the name of "swag," +and is the digger's usual accompaniment--it being too great a +luxury to place upon a dray or pack-horse anything not absolutely +necessary. This will be easily understood when it is known that +carriers, during the winter, obtained 120 pounds and sometimes 150 pounds +a ton for conveying goods to Bendigo (about one hundred miles from +Melbourne). Nor was the sum exorbitant, as besides the chance of a few +weeks' stick in the mud, they run great risk of injuring their horses or +bullocks; many a valuable beast has been obliged to be shot where it +stood, it being found impossible to extricate it from the mud and swamp. +At the time we started, the sum generally demanded was about 70 pounds per +ton. On the price of carriage up, depended of course the price of +provisions at the diggings. + +The weight of one of these "swags" is far from light; the provender for +the road is itself by no means trifling, though that of course +diminishes by the way, and lightens the load a little. Still there are +the blankets, fire-arms, drinking and eating apparatus, clothing, +chamois-leather for the gold that has yet to be dug, and numberless +other cumbersome articles necessary for the digger. In every +belt was stuck either a large knife or a tomahawk; two shouldered their +guns (by the bye, rather imprudent, as the sight of fire-arms often +brings down an attack); some had thick sticks, fit to fell a bullock; +altogether, we seemed well prepared to encounter an entire army of +bushrangers. I felt tolerably comfortable perched upon our dray, amid a +mass of other soft lumber; a bag of flour formed an easy support to +lean against; on either side I was well walled in by the canvas and +poles of our tent; a large cheese made a convenient footstool. My +attire, although well suited for the business on hand, would hardly +have passed muster in any other situation. A dress of common dark blue +serge, a felt wide-awake, and a waterproof coat wrapped round me, made +a ludicrous assortment. + +Going along at a foot-pace we descended Great Bourke Street, and made +our first halt opposite the Post-office, where one of our party made a +last effort to obtain a letter from his lady-love, which was, alas! +unsuccessful. But we move on again--pass the Horse Bazaar--turn into +Queen Street--up we go towards Flemington, leaving the Melbourne +cemetery on our right, and the flag-staff a little to the left; and +now our journey may be considered fairly begun. + +Just out of Melbourne, passing to the east of the Benevolent Asylum, we +went over a little rise called Mount Pleasant, which, on a damp sort of +a day, with the rain beating around one, seemed certainly a misnomer. +After about two miles, we came to a branch-road leading to Pentridge, +where the Government convict establishment is situated. This we left on +our right, and through a line of country thickly wooded (consisting of +red and white gum, stringy bark, cherry and other trees), we arrived at +Flemington, which is about three miles and a half from town. + +Flemington is a neat little village or town-ship, consisting of about +forty houses, a blacksmith's shop, several stores, and a good inn, +built of brick and stone, with very fair accommodation for travellers, +and a large stable and stock-yards. + +After leaving Flemington, we passed several nice-looking homesteads; +some are on a very large scale, and belong to gentlemen connected +with Melbourne, who prefer "living out of town." On reaching the +top of the hill beyond Flemington there is a fine view of Melbourne, +the bay, William's Town, and the surrounding country, but the miserable +weather prevented us at this time from properly enjoying it. Sunshine +was all we needed to have made this portion of our travels truly +delightful. + +The road was nicely level, fine trees sheltered it on either side, +whilst ever and anon some rustic farm-house was passed, or coffee-shop, +temporarily erected of canvas or blankets, offered refreshment (such as +it was), and the latest news of the diggings to those who had no +objection to pay well for what they had. This Flemington road (which is +considered the most Pleasant in Victoria, or at least anywhere near +Melbourne) is very good as far as Tulip Wright's, which we now +approached. + +Wright's public-house is kept by the man whose name it bears; it is a +rambling ill-built, but withal pleasing-looking edifice, built chiefly +of weather-board and shingle, with a verandah all round. The whole is +painted white, and whilst at some distance from it a passing ray +of sunshine gave it a most peculiar effect. In front of the principal +entrance is a thundering large lamp, a most conspicuous looking object. +Wright himself was formerly in the police, and being a sharp fellow, +obtained the cognomen of "Tulip," by which both he and his house have +always been known; and so inseparable have the names become, that, +whilst "Tulip Wright's" is renowned well-nigh all over the colonies, +the simple name of the owner would create some inquiries. The state of +accommodation here may be gathered from the success of some of the +party who had a PENCHANT for "nobblers" of brandy. "Nothing but bottled +beer in the house." "What could we have for dinner?" inquired one, +rather amused at this Hobson's choice state of affairs. "The eatables +was only cold meat; and they couldn't cook nothink fresh," was the curt +reply. "Can we sleep here?" "Yes--under your drays." As we literally +determined to "camp out" on the journey, we passed on, without +partaking of their "cold eatables," or availing ourselves of their +permission to sleep under our own drays, and, leaving the road +to Sydney on our right, and the one to Keilor straight before us, we +turned short off to the left towards the Deep Creek. + +Of the two rejected routes I will give a very brief account. + +The right-hand road leads to Sydney, VIA Kilmore, and many going to the +diggings prefer using this road as far as that township. The country +about here is very flat, stony and destitute of timber; occasionally +the journey is varied by a water-hole or surface-spring. After several +miles, a public-house called the "Lady of the Lake" is reached, which +is reckoned by many the best country inn on this or any other road in +the colonies. The accommodation is excellent, and the rooms well +arranged, and independent of the house. There are ten or twelve rooms +which, on a push, could accommodate fifty or sixty people; six are +arranged in pairs for the convenience of married persons, and the +fashionable trip during the honey-moon (particularly for diggers' +weddings) is to the "Lady of the Lake." Whether Sir Walter's poem be +the origin of the sign, or whether the swamps in the rear, I cannot +say, but decidedly there is no lake and no lady, though I have +heard of a buxom lass, the landlord's daughter, who acts as barmaid, +and is a great favourite. This spot was the scene last May of a +horrible murder, which has added no little to the notoriety of the +neighbourhood. + +After several miles you at length arrive at Kilmore, which is a large +and thriving township, containing two places of worship, several stores +and inns. There is a resident magistrate with his staff of officials, +and a station for a detachment of mounted police. Kilmore is on the +main overland road from Melbourne to Sydney, and, although not on the +confines of the two colonies, is rather an important place, from being +the last main township until you reach the interior of New South Wales. +The Government buildings are commodious and well arranged. There are +several farms and stations in the neighbourhood, but the country round +is flat and swampy. + +The middle road leads you direct to Keilor, and you must cross the Deep +Creek in a dangerous part, as the banks thereabouts are very steep, the +stream (though narrow) very rapid, and the bottom stony. In 1851, the +bridge (an ordinary log one) was washed down by the floods, and +for two months all communication was cut off. Government have now put a +punt, which is worked backwards and forwards every half-hour from six +in the morning till six at night, at certain fares, which are doubled +after these hours. These fares are: for a passenger, 6d.; a horse or +bullock, 1s.; a two-wheeled vehicle, 1s. 6d.; a loaded dray, 2s. The +punt is tolerably well managed, except when the man gets intoxicated--not +an unfrequent occurrence. When there was neither bridge nor punt, +those who wished to cross were obliged to ford it; and so strong has +been the current, that horses have been carried down one or two hundred +yards before they could effect a landing. Keilor is a pretty little +village with a good inn, several nice cottages, and a store or two. The +country round is hilly and barren--scarcely any herbage and that +little is rank and coarse; the timber is very scarce. This road to the +diggings is not much used. + +But to return to ourselves. The rain and bad roads made travelling so +very wearisome, that before we had proceeded far it was unanimously +agreed that we should halt and pitch our first encampment. +"Pitch our first encampment! how charming!" exclaims some romantic +reader, as though it were an easily accomplished undertaking. Fixing a +gipsy-tent at a FETE CHAMPETRE, with a smiling sky above, and all +requisites ready to hand, is one thing, and attempting to sink poles +and erect tents out of blankets and rugs in a high wind and pelting +rain, is (if I may be allowed the colonialism) "a horse of quite +another colour." Some sort of sheltering-places were at length +completed; the horses were taken from the dray and tethered to some +trees within sight, and then we made preparations for satisfying the +unromantic cravings of hunger--symptoms of which we all, more or less, +began to feel. With some difficulty a fire was kindled and kept alight +in the hollow trunk of an old gum tree. A damper was speedily made, +which, with a plentiful supply of steaks and boiled and roasted eggs, +was a supper by no means to be despised. The eggs had been procured at +four shillings a dozen from a farm-house we had passed. + +It was certainly the most curious tea-table at which I had ever +assisted. Chairs, of course, there were none, we sat or lounged +upon the ground as best suited our tired limbs; tin pannicans (holding +about a pint) served as tea-cups, and plates of the same metal in lieu +of china; a teapot was dispensed with; but a portly substitute was +there in the shape of an immense iron kettle, just taken from the fire +and placed in the centre of our grand tea-service, which being new, a +lively imagination might mistake for silver. Hot spirits, for those +desirous of imbibing them, followed our substantial repast; but fatigue +and the dreary weather had so completely damped all disposition to +conviviality, that a very short space of time found all fast asleep +except the three unfortunates on the watch, which was relieved every +two hours. + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 8.--I awoke rather early this morning, not +feeling over-comfortable from having slept in my clothes all night, +which it is necessary to do on the journey, so as never to be +unprepared for any emergency. A small corner of my brother's tent had +been partitioned off for my BED-ROOM; it was quite dark, so my first +act on waking was to push aside one of the blankets, still wet, +which had been my roof during the night, and thus admit air and light +into my apartments. Having made my toilette--after a fashion--I +joined my companions on the watch, who were deep in the mysteries of +preparing something eatable for breakfast. I discovered that their +efforts were concentrated on the formation of a damper, which seemed to +give them no little difficulty. A damper is the legitimate, and, in +fact, only bread of the bush, and should be made solely of flour and +water, well mixed and kneaded into a cake, as large as you like, but +not more than two inches in thickness, and then placed among the hot +ashes to bake. If well-made, it is very sweet and a good substitute for +bread. The rain had, however, spoiled our ashes, the dough would +neither rise nor brown, so in despair we mixed a fresh batch of flour +and water, and having fried some rashers of fat bacon till they were +nearly melted, we poured the batter into the pan and let it fry till +done. This impromptu dish gave general satisfaction and was pronounced +a cross between a pancake and a heavy suet pudding. + +Breakfast over, our temporary residences were pulled down, the +drays loaded, and our journey recommenced. + +We soon reached the Deep Creek, and crossed by means of a punt, the +charges being the same as the one at Keilor. Near here is a station +belonging to Mr. Ryleigh, which is a happy specimen of a squatter's +home--everything being managed in a superior manner. The house itself +is erected on a rise and surrounded by an extensive garden, vinery and +orchard, all well stocked and kept; some beautifully enclosed paddocks +reach to the Creek, and give an English park-like appearance to the +whole. The view from here over the bay and Brighton is splendid; you +can almost distinguish Geelong. About a quarter of a mile off is a +little hamlet with a neat Swiss-looking church, built over a +school-room on a rise of ground; it has a most peculiar effect, and is +the more singular as the economizing the ground could not be a +consideration in the colony; on the left of the church is a pretty +little parsonage, whitewashed, with slate roof and green-painted +window-frames. + +I still fancy, though our redoubtable captain most strenuously +denied it, that we had in some manner gone out of our way; however that +may be, the roads seemed worse and worse as we proceeded, and our pace +became more tedious as here and there it was up-hill work till at +length we reached the Keilor plains. It was almost disheartening to +look upon that vast expanse of flat and dreary land except where the +eye lingered on the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which rose far +distant in front of us. On entering the plains we passed two or three +little farm-houses, coffee-shops, &c., and encountered several parties +coming home for a trip to Melbourne. For ten miles we travelled on +dismally enough, for it rained a great deal, and we were constantly +obliged to halt to get the horses rested a little. We now passed a +coffee-shop, which although only consisting of a canvas tent and little +wooden shed, has been known to accommodate above forty people of a +night. As there are always plenty of bad characters lounging in the +neighbourhood of such places, we kept at a respectful distance, and did +not make our final halt till full two miles farther on our road. Tents +were again pitched, but owing to their not being fastened over +securely, many of us got an unwished-for shower-bath during the +night; but this is nothing--at the antipodes one soon learns to laugh +at such trifles. + +THURSDAY, 9.--This morning we were up betimes, some of our party being +so sanguine as to anticipate making the "Bush Inn" before evening. As +we proceeded, this hope quickly faded away. The Keilor plains seemed +almost impassable, and what with pieces of rock here, and a water-hole +there, crossing them was more dangerous than agreeable. Now one passed +a broken-down dray; then one's ears were horrified at the oaths an +unhappy wight was venting at a mud-hole into which he had stumbled. A +comical object he looked, as, half-seas-over, he attempted to pull on a +mud-covered boot, which he had just extricated from the hole where it +and his leg had parted company. A piece of wood, which his imagination +transformed into a shoe-horn, was in his hand. "Put it into the +larboard side," (suiting the action to the word), "there it goes--damn +her, she won't come on! Put it into the starboard side there it +goes--well done, old girl," and he triumphantly rose from the ground, +and reeled away. + +With a hearty laugh, we proceeded on our road, and after passing +two or three coffee-tents, we arrived at Gregory's Inn. The landlord is +considered the best on the road, and is a practical example of what +honesty and industry may achieve. He commenced some nine months before +without a shilling--his tarpaulin tent and small stock of tea, sugar, +coffee, &c., being a loan. He has now a large weather-board house, +capable of making up one hundred beds, and even then unable to +accommodate all his visitors, so numerous are they, from the good name +he bears. Here we got a capital cold dinner of meat, bread, cheese, +coffee, tea, &c., for three shillings a-piece, and, somewhat refreshed, +went forwards in better spirits, though the accounts we heard there of +the bad roads in the Black Forest would have disheartened many. + +Mount Macedon now formed quite a beautiful object on our right: a +little below that mountain appeared a smaller one, called the Bald +Hill, from its peak being quite barren, and the soil of a white +limestone and quartzy nature, which gives it a most peculiar and +splendid appearance when the sun's rays are shining upon it. As +we advanced, the thickly-wooded sides of Mount Macedon became more +distinct, and our proximity to a part of the country which we knew to +be auriferous, exercised an unaccountable yet pleasureable influence +over our spirits, which was perhaps increased by the loveliness of the +spot where we now pitched our tents for the evening. It was at the foot +of the Gap. The stately gum-tree, the shea-oak, with its gracefully +drooping foliage, the perfumed yellow blossom of the mimosa, the +richly-wooded mountain in the background, united to form a picture too +magnificent to describe. The ground was carpeted with wild flowers; the +sarsaparilla blossoms creeping everywhere; before us slowly rippled a +clear streamlet, reflecting a thousand times the deepening tints which +the last rays of the setting sun flung over the surrounding scenery; +the air rang with the cawing of the numerous cockatoos and parrots of +all hues and colours who made the woods resound with their tones, +whilst their restless movements and gay plumage gave life and piquancy +to the scene. + +This night our beds were composed of the mimosa, which has a perfume +like the hawthorn. The softest-looking branches were selected, +cut down, and flung upon the ground beneath the tents, and formed a bed +which, to my wearied limbs, appeared the softest and most luxuriant +upon which I had slept since my arrival in the colonies. + +FRIDAY, 10.--With some reluctance I aroused myself from a very heavy +slumber produced by the over fatigue of the preceding day. I found +every one preparing to start; kindly considerate, my companions thought +a good sleep more refreshing for me than breakfast, and had deferred +awakening me till quite obliged, so taking a few sailors' biscuits in +my pocket to munch on the way, I bade farewell to a spot whose natural +beauties I have never seen surpassed. + +Proceeding onwards, we skirted the Bald Hill, and entering rather a +scrubby tract, crossed a creek more awkward for our drays than +dangerous to ourselves; we then passed two or three little +coffee-shops, which being tents are always shifting their quarters, +crossed another plain, very stony and in places swampy, which +terminated in a thickly-wooded tract of gum and wattle trees. Into this +wood we now entered. After about five miles uncomfortable +travelling we reached the "Bush Inn." + +I must here observe that no DISTINCT road is ever cut out, but the +whole country is cut up into innumerable tracks by the carts and drays, +and which are awfully bewildering to the new-comer as they run here and +there, now crossing a swamp, now a rocky place, here a creek, there a +hillock, and yet, in many cases, all leading BONA FIDE to the same +place. + +The "Bush Inn" (the genuine one, for there are two) consists of a +large, well-built, brick and weather-board house, with bed-rooms for +private families. There is a detached weather-board, and stone kitchen, +and tap-room, with sleeping-lofts above, a large yard with sheds and +good stabling. A portion of the house and stables is always engaged for +the use of the escort. About two hundred yards off is the "New Bush +Inn," somewhat similar to the other, not quite so large, with an +attempt at a garden. The charges at these houses are enormous. Five and +six shillings per meal, seven-and-sixpence for a bottle of ale, and one +shilling for half a glass or "nobbler" of brandy. About half a +mile distant is a large station belonging to Mr. Watson; the houses, +huts and yards are very prettily laid out, and, in a few years he will +have the finest vineyard in the neighbourhood. Two miles to the east is +the residence of Mr. Poullett, Commissioner of Crown Lands, which is +very pleasantly situated on the banks of an ever-running stream. The +paddock, which is a large one (10 square miles, or 6400 acres), is well +wooded. Some new police barracks and stabling yards are in the course +of erection. + +We did not linger in the "Bush Inn," but pursued our way over a marshy +flat, crossed a dangerous creek, and having ascended a steep and +thickly wooded hill on the skirts of the Black Forest, we halted and +pitched our tents. It was little more than mid-day, but the road had +been fearful--as bad as wading through a mire; men and beasts were +worn out, and it was thought advisable to recruit well before entering +the dreaded precincts of the Black Forest. Fires were lit, supper was +cooked, spirits and pipes made their appearance, songs were sung, and a +few of the awful exploits of Black Douglas and his followers were +related. Later in the evening, an opossum was shot by one of us. +Its skin was very soft, with rich, brown hair. + +SATURDAY, 11--A dismal wet day--we remained stationary, as many of +our party were still foot-sore, and all were glad of a rest. Some went +out shooting, but returned with only a few parrots and cockatoos, which +they roasted, and pronounced nice eating. Towards evening, a party of +four, returning from the diggings, encamped at a little distance from +us. Some of our loiterers made their acquaintance. They had passed the +previous night in the Black Forest, having wandered out of their way. +To add to their misfortunes, they had been attacked by three well-armed +bushrangers, whom they had compelled to desist from their attempt, not, +however, before two of the poor men had been wounded, one rather +severely. Hardly had they recovered this shock, than they were +horrified by the sudden discovery in a sequestered spot of some human +bones, strewn upon the ground beside a broken-down cart. Whether +accident or design had brought these unfortunates to an untimely end, +none know; but this ominous appearance seemed to have terrified +them even more than the bushrangers themselves. These accounts sobered +our party not a little, and it was deemed advisable to double the watch +that night. + + + + +Chapter V. + +CAMPING UP--BLACK FOREST TO EAGLE HAWK GULLY + + +SUNDAY, 12.--A lovely summer morning, which raised our spirits to +something like their usual tone, with the exception of our gallant(?) +captain, who resigned his post, declaring it his intention to return to +Melbourne with the four returning diggers. Poor fellow! their awful +account of the Black Forest had been too much for his courage. Gregory +was elected in his place, and wishing him a pleasant trip home, our +journey was resumed as usual, and we entered the forest. Here the trees +grow very closely together; in some places they are so thickly +set that the rear-guard of the escort cannot see the advance-guard in +the march. There is a slight undergrowth of scrub. We saw some of the +choicest of the ERICA tribe in full bloom, like a beautiful crimson +waxen bell-blossom, and once whilst walking (which I frequently did to +relieve the monotony of being perched on the dray by myself) I saw a +fine specimen of the ORELUDIAE at the foot of a tree growing from the +wood; it was something like a yellow sweet-pea, but really too +beautiful to describe. The barks of the trees, and also the ground, +have a black, charred appearance (hence the name of the forest); this +is said to have been caused by its having once been on fire. Many of +the ambuscades of the noted Douglas were passed, and the scenes of some +most fearful murders pointed out. We only halted once--so anxious were +we to leave behind us this dreaded spot--and at sunset reached the +borders of the Five Mile Creek. + +MONDAY, 13.--Another fine day. Crossed the Five Mile Creek by means of +a rickety sort of bridge. There are two inns here, with plenty of +accommodation for man and beast. We patronized neither, but made the +best of our way towards Kyneton. Our road lay through a densely +wooded country till we arrived at Jacomb's Station; this we left, and +turning to the right, soon reached Kyneton, which lies on the river +Campaspe. + +Carlshrue lies to the right, about three miles distant, on rather low +land; this is the chief station of the Government escort; the barrack +accommodation is first-rate, with stabling and paddocks for the horses, +&c. + +Kyneton is about sixty-one miles from Melbourne. There are two large +inns, with ample accommodation for four hundred people between them, +several stores, with almost every needful article. A neat little +church, capable of holding nearly three hundred persons, with a school +and parsonage. There is a resident magistrate and constabulary, with a +police-court and gaol in progress of erection. The township is rather +straggling, but what houses there are have a very picturesque +appearance. The only draw-back to this little town is the badness of +the streets. Although it is rather on an elevated spot, the streets and +roads, from the loamy nature of the sod, are a perfect quagmire, even +abominable in summer time. The charges here are high, but not +extortionate, as, besides the two inns alluded to, there are several +coffee-shops and lodging-houses; so competition has its effect even in +the bush. + +The Campaspe is a large river, and is crossed by a substantial timber +bridge. + +We still adhered to our original plan of camping out; a few necessaries +were purchased in the town, and after continuing our journey to a +little distance from it, we halted for the night. + +TUESDAY 14.--This morning commenced with a colonial shower, which gave +us all a good drenching. Started about eight o'clock; returned to +Kyneton; crossed the bridge, and passed several farm-houses. The +country here is very changeable, sometimes flat and boggy, at others, +very hilly and stony. We were obliged to ford several small creeks, +evidently tributaries to the Campaspe, and at about ten miles from +Kyneton, entered the Coliban range, which is thickly wooded. The river +itself is about fourteen miles from Kyneton. Here we camped, in the +pouring rain. Some of our party walked to the town of Malmsbury, about +a mile and a half from our camping place. The town consisted of +about three tents, and an inn dignified by the appellation of the +"Malmsbury Hotel". It is a two-storied, weather-board, and pale house, +painted blue, with a lamp before it of many colours, large enough for +half-a-dozen people to dine in. It (the inn, not the lamp,) is capable +of accommodating two hundred people, independent of which there is a +large tent, similar to the booths at a fair, about 100 feet long by 30 +wide, for the convenience of those who prefer sleeping under cover when +the house is full. Being hungry with their walk, our comrades dined +here, for which they paid 3s. 6d. a-piece; ale was 1s. 6d. a glass; +brandy 2s. per half glass, or "nobbler;" cheese, 4s. 6d. a pound; +bread, 5s. the four-pound loaf; wine, 25s. a bottle. By the time they +returned, we had struck our tents, intending to cross a muddy-banked +creek that lay in our road that evening, as we were told that the +waters might be too swollen to do it next day. The water reached above +their waists, and as my usual post was very insecure, I was obliged to +be carried over on their shoulders, which did not prevent my feet from +being thoroughly soaked before reaching the other side, where we +remained all night. + +WEDNESDAY, 15.--Rainy day again, so much so, that we thought it +advisable not to shift our quarters. In the afternoon, three returning +diggers pitched their tents not far from ours. They were rather +sociable, and gave us a good account of the diggings. They had +themselves been very fortunate. On the same day that we had been idly +resting on the borders of the Black Forest, they had succeeded in +taking twenty-three pounds weight out of their claim, and two days +after, two hundred and six ounces more, making, in all, gold to the +value (in England) of about eighteen hundred pounds. They were +returning to Melbourne for a spree, (which means to fling their gains +away as quickly as possible,) and then as soon as the dry season was +regularly set in, they meant to return to Bendigo for another spell at +work. On representing to them the folly of not making better use of +their hard-earned wages, the answer invariably was, "Plenty more to be +got where this came from," an apt illustration of the proverb, "light +come, light go." Two of these diggers had with them their licences for +the current month, which they offered to sell for ten shillings each; +two of our company purchased them. This, although a common +proceeding, was quite illegal, and, of course, the two purchasers had +to assume for the rest of the month the names of the parties to whom +the licences had been issued. As evening approached, our new +acquaintances became very sociable, and amused us with their account of +the diggings; and the subject of licensing being naturally discussed, +led to our being initiated into the various means of evading it, and +the penalties incurred thereby. One story they related amused us at the +time, and as it is true I will repeat it here, though I fancy the lack +of oral communication will subtract from it what little interest it did +possess. + +Before I commence, I must give my readers some little insight into the +nature of the licence tax itself. The licence, (for which thirty +shillings, or half an ounce of gold, is paid per month) is in the +following form: + + +VICTORIA GOLD LICENCE. +No. 1710, Sept. 3, 1852. + +The Bearer, Henry Clements, having paid to me the Sum of One Pound, Ten +Shillings, on account of the Territorial Revenue, I hereby +Licence him to dig, search for, and remove Gold on and from any such +Crown Land within the Upper Lodden District, as I shall assign to him +for that purpose during the month of September, 1852, not within +half-a-mile of any Head station. + +This Licence is not transferable, and to be produced whenever demanded +by me or any other person acting under the Authority of the Government, +and to be returned when another Licence is issued. + +(SIGNED) B. BAXTER, Commissioner. + + +At the back of the Licence are the following rules: + + +REGULATIONS TO BE OBSERVED BY THE PERSONS DIGGING FOR GOLD, OR +OTHERWISE EMPLOYED AT THE GOLD FIELDS. + +1. Every Licensed Person must always have his Licence with him, ready +to be produced whenever demanded by a Commissioner, or Person acting +under his instructions, otherwise he is liable to be proceeded against +as an Unlicensed person. + +2. Every Person digging for Gold, or occupying Land, without a +Licence, is liable by Law to be fined, for the first offence, not +exceeding 5 pounds; for a second offence, not exceeding 15 pounds; and for +a subsequent offence, not exceeding 30 pounds. + +3. Digging for Gold is not allowed within Ten feet of any Public Road, +nor are the Roads to be undermined. + +4. Tents or buildings are not to be erected within Twenty feet of each +other, or within Twenty feet of any Creek. + +5. It is enjoined that all Persons at the Gold Fields maintain and +assist in maintaining a due and proper observance of Sundays. + +* * * * * + +So great is the crowd around the Commissioner's tent at the beginning +of the month, that it is a matter of difficulty to procure it, and +consequently the inspectors rarely begin their rounds before the 10th, +when (as they generally vary the fine according to the date at which +the delinquency is discovered), a non-licensed digger would have the +pleasure of accompanying a crowd of similar offenders to the +Commissioners, sometimes four or five miles from his working-place, pay +a fine of about 3 pounds, and take out a licence. After the 20th of the +month, the fine inflicted is generally from 5 pounds to 10 pounds and a +licence, which is rather a dear price to pay for a few days' permission to +dig, as a licence, although granted on the 30th of one month, would be +unavailable for the next. The inspectors are generally strong-built, +rough-looking customers, they dress like the generality of the diggers, +and are only known by their carrying a gun in lieu of a pick or shovel. +Delinquents unable to pay the fine, have the pleasure of working it out +on the roads. + +Now for my story--such as it is. + +Mike and Robert were two as good mates as any at the Mount Alexander +diggings. They had had a good spell of hard work, and, as is usually +the way, returned to Melbourne for a holiday at Christmas-time; and +then it was that the bright eyes of Susan Hinton first sowed discord +between them. Mike was the successful wooer, and the old man gave his +consent; for Mike, with one exception, had contrived to make himself a +favourite with both father and daughter. The exception was this. Old +Hinton was a strict disciplinarian--one of what is called the +"good old school"--he hated radicals, revolutionists, and reformers, +or any opposition to Church or State. Mike, on the contrary, loved +nothing better than to hold forth against the powers that be; and it +was his greatest boast that Government had never pocketed a farthing +from him in the way of a licence. This, in the old man's eyes, was his +solitary fault, and when Mike declared his intention of taking another +trip to the "lottery fields" before taking a ticket in the even greater +lottery of marriage, he solemnly declared that no daughter of his +should ever marry a man who had been openly convicted of in any way +evading the licence fee. + +This declaration from any other man, who had already promised his +daughter in marriage, would not have had much weight; but Mike knew the +stern, strict character of Hinton, and respected this determination +accordingly. The day of their departure arrived, and with a tearful +injunction to bear in mind her father's wishes, Susan bade her lover +farewell, and Robert and he proceeded on their journey. Full of his own +happiness, Mike had never suspected his comrade's love for +Susan, and little dreamt he of the hatred against himself to which it +had given birth--hatred the more to be dreaded since it was concealed +under a most friendly exterior. + +For the first month Mike behaved to the very letter of the law, and +having for the sum of one pound ten shillings purchased his legal right to +dig for gold, felt himself a most exemplary character. Success again +crowned their efforts, and a speedy return to Melbourne was contemplated. +In the ardour of this exciting work another month commenced, and Mike at +first forgot and then neglected to renew his licence. "The inspector +rarely came his rounds before the 14th; the neighbourhood was +considered deserted--fairly 'worked out;' he'd never come round +there." Thus argued Mike, and his friend cordially agreed with him. +"Lose a day's work standing outside the Commissioner's tent broiling in +a crowd, when two days would finish the job? Not he, indeed! Mike might +please himself, but HE shouldn't get a licence;" and this determination +on the part of his "mate" settled the matter. + +In one respect Mike's self-security was not unfounded; the gully +in which their tent was now pitched was nearly deserted. Some while +previous there had been a great rush to the place, so great that it was +almost excavated; then the rush took a different direction, and few now +cared to work on the two or three spots that had been left untouched. +Like many other localities considered "worked out," as much remained in +the ground as had been taken from it, and as each day added to their +store, Mike's hilarity increased. + +It was now the 10th of the month; their hole had been fairly +"bottomed," a nice little nest of nuggets discovered, their gains +divided, and the gold sent down to the escort-office for transit to +Melbourne. A few buckets-full of good washing-stuff was all that was +left undone. + +"To-day will finish that," thought Mike, and to it he set with hearty +good-will, to the intense satisfaction of his comrade, who sat watching +him at a little distance. Suddenly Mike felt a heavy hand upon his +shoulder: he looked up, and saw before him--the inspector. He had +already with him a large body of defaulters, and Mike little doubted +but that he must be added to their number. Old Hinton's determined +speech, Susan's parting words and tears, flashed across his +mind. + +"You've lost your bonnie bride," muttered Robert, loud enough to reach +his rival's ears. + +Mike glanced at him, and the look of triumph he saw there roused every +spark of energy within him, and it was in a tone of well-assumed +composure that he replied to the inspector, "My licence is in my +pocket, and my coat is below there;" and without a moment's hesitation +sprang into his hole to fetch it. Some minutes elapsed. The inspector +waxed impatient. A suspicion of the truth flashed across Robert's mind, +and he too descended the hole. THERE was the coat and the licence of +the past month in the pocket; but the owner had gone, vanished, and an +excavation on one side which led into the next hole and thence into a +complete labyrinth underground, plainly pointed out the method of +escape. Seeing no use in ferreting the delinquent out of so dangerous a +place, the inspector sulkily withdrew, though not without venting some +of his ill-humour upon Robert, at whose representations, made to him +the day previous, he had come so far out of his road. + +But let us return to Mike. By a happy thought, he had suddenly +remembered that whilst working some days before in the hole, his pick +had let in daylight on one side, and the desperate hope presented +itself to his mind that he might make a passage into the next pit, +which he knew led into others, and thus escape. His success was beyond +his expectation; and he regained the open air at a sufficient distance +from his late quarters to escape observation. Once able to reflect +calmly upon the event of the morning, it required little discrimination +to fix upon Robert his real share in it. And now there was no time to +lose in returning to Melbourne, and prevent by a speedy marriage any +further attempt to set his intended father-in-law against him. The +roads were dry, for it was the sultry month of February; and two days +saw him beside his lady-love. + +Although railroads are as yet unknown in Australia, everything goes on +at railroad speed; and a marriage concocted one day is frequently +solemnized the next. His eagerness, therefore, was no way remarkable. +No time was lost; and when, three days after Mike's return, Robert +(with his head full of plots and machinations) presented himself +at old Hinton's door, he found them all at a well-spread wedding +breakfast, round which were gathered a merry party, listening with a +digger's interest to the way in which the happy bridegroom had evaded +the inspector. Mike had wisely kept the story till Susan was his wife. + +THURSDAY 16.--With great delight we hailed the prognostications of a +fine day, and, after having eaten a hearty breakfast on the strength of +it, we recommenced our travels, and crossed the Coliban Bridge. The +Coliban is a fine river running through a beautiful valley bounded with +green trees; the bridge is a timber one, out of repair, and dangerous. +A township called Malmsbury has been laid out here in small allotments +with the expectation of a future city; but as yet not a house has been +erected, with the exception of the "hotel" before mentioned, putting +one in mind of the American Eden in "Martin Chuzzlewit." A mile beyond +the Coliban are the washing huts of John Orr's Station, and about three +miles to the left is his residence; the house is stone, with verandahs, +the garden and vineyards are prettily laid out. + +After passing the bridge, we took the right-hand road, which led +us through a low country, and across two or three tributary creeks; we +then reached the neighbourhood of Saw-pit Gully, so called from the +number of saw-pits there, which formerly gave employment to numerous +sawyers, whose occupation--it is almost needless to state--is now +deserted. It is surrounded with fine large timber; there are several +coffee-shops, a blacksmith's and wheelright's, and a neat little +weather-board inn. + +At this part, our German friends bade us farewell, to follow out their +original plan of going to Forest Creek; they had persuaded four others +to accompany them, so our number was reduced to fifteen, myself +included. The scenery now became very beautiful, diversified with hill +and dale, well wooded, with here and there a small creek, more +agreeable to look at than to cross, as there were either no bridges or +broken-down ones. The loveliness of the weather seemed to impart energy +even to our horses; and we did not pitch our tents till we had +travelled full sixteen miles. We were now close beside Mount Alexander, +which is nearly covered with timber, chiefly white gum, wattle +and stringy bark. + +FRIDAY, 17.--A lovely morning; we proceeded in excellent spirits, +passing some beautiful scenery, though rather monotonous. During the +first few miles, we went across many little creeks, in the +neighbourhood of which were indications that the diggers had been at +work. These symptoms we hailed with intense delight. Gregory told us +the history of a hole in this neighbourhood, out of which five people +cleared 13,000 pounds worth of gold each in about a few hours. In lieu of +sinking a shaft, they commenced in a gully (colonial for valley), and +drove a hole on an inclined plane up the side of the hill or rise. +However wet the season, they could never be inconvenienced, as the very +inclination would naturally drain the hole. Such a precaution was not +needed, as the whole party were perfectly satisfied with the success +they had had without toiling for more. The country between here and the +"Porcupine Inn" is exceedingly beautiful--not unlike many parts in the +lowlands of Wales. About eight miles on the road we pass Barker's +Creek, which runs through a beautiful vale. + +We camped this evening about four or five miles from Bendigo, +and some miles from the "Porcupine Inn," which we left behind us. The +"Porcupine" is a newly built inn on an old spot, for I believe there +was an inn in existence there before the diggings were ever heard or +thought of. The accommodation appears on rather a small scale. Near it +is a portion of the station of the Messrs. Gibson, through which the +public road runs; some parts are fine, others wooded and swampy. + +SATURDAY, 18.--Fine day; we now approached Bendigo. The timber here is +very large. Here we first beheld the majestic iron bark, EUCALYPTI, the +trunks of which are fluted with the exquisite regularity of a Doric +column; they are in truth the noblest ornaments of these mighty +forests. A few miles further, and the diggings themselves burst upon +our view. Never shall I forget that scene, it well repaid a journey +even of sixteen thousand miles. The trees had been all cut down; it +looked like a sandy plain, or one vast unbroken succession of countless +gravel pits--the earth was everywhere turned up--men's heads +in every direction were popping up and down from their holes. Well +might an Australian writer, in speaking of Bendigo, term it "The +Carthage of the Tyre of Forest Creek." The rattle of the cradle, as it +swayed to and fro, the sounds of the pick and shovel, the busy hum of +so many thousands, the innumerable tents, the stores with large flags +hoisted above them, flags of every shape, colour, and nation, from the +lion and unicorn of England to the Russian eagle, the strange yet +picturesque costume of the diggers themselves, all contributed to +render the scene novel in the extreme. + +We hurried through this exciting locality as quickly as possible; and, +after five miles travelling, reached the Eagle Hawk Gully, where we +pitched our tents, supped, and retired to rest--though, for myself at +least, not to sleep. The excitement of the day was sufficient cure for +drowsiness. Before proceeding with an account of our doings at the +Eagle Hawk, I will give a slight sketch of the character and +peculiarities of the diggings themselves, which are of course not +confined to one spot, but are the characteristics that usually +exist in any auriferous regions, where the diggers are at work. I will +leave myself, therefore, safely ensconced beneath a tent at the Eagle +Hawk, and take a slight and rapid survey of the principal diggings in +the neighbourhood from Saw-pit Gully to Sydney Flat. + + + + +Chapter VI. + +THE DIGGINGS + + +Of the history of the discovery of gold in Australia I believe few are +ignorant; it is therefore necessary that my recapitulation of it should +be as brief as possible. The first supposed discovery took place some +sixty years ago, at Port Jackson. A convict made known to Governor +Phillip the existence of an auriferous region near Sydney, and on the +locality being examined, particles of real gold-dust were found. Every +one was astonished, and several other spots were tried without success. +Suspicion was now excited, and the affair underwent a thorough +examination, which elicited the following facts. The convict, in +the hope of obtaining his pardon as a reward, had filed a guinea and +some brass buttons, which, judiciously mixed, made a tolerable pile of +gold-dust, and this he carefully distributed over a small tract of +sandy land. In lieu of the expected freedom, his ingenuity was rewarded +with close confinement and other punishments. Thus ended the first idea +of a gold-field in those colonies. + +In 1841 the Rev. W. B. Clarke expressed his belief in the existence of +gold in the valley of the Macquarie, and this opinion was greatly +confirmed by the observations of European geologists on the Uralian +Mountains. In 1849 an indisputable testimony was added to these +opinions by a Mr. Smith, who was then engaged in some iron works, near +Berrima, and who brought a splendid specimen of gold in quartz to the +Colonial Secretary. Sir C. A. Fitzroy evinced little sympathy with the +discovery, and in a despatch to Lord Grey upon the subject, expressed +his opinion that "any investigation that the Government might institute +with the view of ascertaining whether gold did in reality exist to any +extent or value in that part of the colony where it was supposed +from its geological formation that metal would be found, would only +tend to agitate the public mind, &c." + +Suddenly, in 1851, at the time that the approaching opening of the +Crystal Palace was the principal subject of attention in England, the +colonies of Australia were in a state of far greater excitement, as the +news spread like wild-fire, far and wide, that gold was really there. +To Edward Hammond Hargreaves be given the honour of this discovery. +This gentleman was an old Australian settler, just returned from a trip +to California, where he had been struck by the similarity of the +geological formation of the mountain ranges in his adopted country to +that of the Sacramento district. On his return, he immediately searched +for the precious metal; Ophir, the Turon, and Bathurst well repaid his +labour. Thus commenced the gold diggings of New South Wales. + +The good people of Victoria were rather jealous of the importance given +by these events to the other colony. Committees were formed, and +rewards were offered for the discovery of a gold-field in Victoria. The +announcement of the Clunes Diggings in July, 1851, was the +result; they were situated on a tributary of the Loddon. On September 8, +those of Ballarat, and on the 10th those of Mount Alexander +completely satisfied the most sceptical as to the vast mineral wealth +of the colony. Bendigo soon was heard of; and gully after gully +successively attracted the attention of the public by the display of +their golden treasures. + +The names given to these gullies open a curious field of speculation. +Many have a sort of digger's tradition respecting their first +discovery. The riches of Peg Leg Gully were brought to light through +the surfacing of three men with wooden legs, who were unable to sink a +hole in the regular way. Golden Gully was discovered by a man who, +whilst lounging on the ground and idly pulling up the roots of grass +within his reach, found beneath one a nest of golden nuggets. Eagle +Hawk derives its name from the number of eagle-hawks seen in the gully +before the sounds of the pick and shovel drove them away. Murderer's +Flat and Choke'em Gully tell their own tale. The Irish clan together in +Tipperary Gully. A party of South Australians gave the name of their +chief town to Adelaide Gully. The Iron Bark is so called from +the magnificent trees which abound there. Long, Piccaninny, and Dusty +Gully need no explanation. The Jim Crow ranges are appropriately so +called, for it is only by keeping up a sort of Jim Crow dancing +movement that one can travel about there; it is the roughest piece of +country at the diggings. White Horse Gully obtained its name from a +white horse whose hoofs, whilst the animal in a rage was plunging here +and there, flung up the surface ground and disclosed the treasures +beneath. In this gully was found the famous "John Bull Nugget," lately +exhibited in London. The party to whom it belonged consisted of three +poor sailors; the one who actually discovered it had only been a +fortnight at the diggings. The nugget weighed forty-five pounds, and +was only a few inches beneath the surface. It was sold for 5,000 pounds; a +good morning's work that! + +Let us take a stroll round Forest Creek--what a novel scene!--thousands +of human beings engaged in digging, wheeling, carrying, and washing, +intermingled with no little grumbling, scolding and swearing. +We approach first the old Post-office Square; next our eye glances +down Adelaide Gully, and over the Montgomery and White Hills, +all pretty well dug up; now we pass the Private Escort Station, and +Little Bendigo. At the junction of Forest, Barker, and Campbell Creeks +we find the Commissioners' quarters--this is nearly five miles from +our starting point. We must now return to Adelaide Gully, and keep +alongside Adelaide Creek, till we come to a high range of rocks, which +we cross, and then find ourselves near the head-waters of Fryer's +Creek. Following that stream towards the Loddon, we pass the +interesting neighbourhood of Golden Gully, Moonlight Flat, Windlass and +Red Hill; this latter which covers about two acres of ground is so +called from the colour of the soil, it was the first found, and is +still considered as the richest auriferous spot near Mount Alexander. +In the wet season, it was reckoned that on Moonlight Flat one man was +daily buried alive from the earth falling into his hole. Proceeding +north-east in the direction of Campbell's Creek, we again reach the +Commissioners' tent. + +The principal gullies about Bendigo are Sailors's, Napoleon, +Pennyweight, Peg Leg, Growler's, White Horse, Eagle Hawk, Californian, +American, Derwent, Long, Picaninny, Iron Bark, Black Man's, Poor Man's, +Dusty, Jim Crow, Spring, and Golden--also Sydney Flat, and Specimen +Hill--Haverton Gully, and the Sheep-wash. Most of these places are +well-ransacked and tunnelled, but thorough good wages may always be +procured by tin dish washing in deserted holes, or surface washing. + +It is not only the diggers, however, who make money at the Gold Fields. +Carters, carpenters, storemen, wheelwrights, butchers, shoemakers, &c., +usually in the long run make a fortune quicker than the diggers +themselves, and certainly with less hard work or risk of life. They can +always get from one to two pounds a day without rations, whereas they may +dig for weeks and get nothing. Living is not more expensive than in +Melbourne: meat is generally from 4d. to 6d. a pound, flour about 1s. 6d +a pound, (this is the most expensive article in house-keeping +there,) butter must be dispensed with, as that is seldom less than +4s. a pound, and only successful diggers can indulge in such articles as +cheese, pickles, ham, sardines, pickled salmon, or spirits, as +all these things, though easily procured if you have gold to throw +away, are expensive, the last-named article (diluted with water or +something less innoxious) is only to be obtained for 30s. a bottle. + +The stores, which are distinguished by a flag, are numerous and well +stocked. A new style of lodging and boarding house is in great vogue. +It is a tent fitted up with stringy bark couches, ranged down each side +the tent, leaving a narrow passage up the middle. The lodgers are +supplied with mutton, damper, and tea, three times a day, for the +charge of 5s. a meal, and 5s. for the bed; this is by the week, a +casual guest must pay double, and as 18 inches is on an average +considered ample width to sleep in, a tent 24 feet long will bring in a +good return to the owner. + +The stores at the diggings are large tents, generally square or oblong, +and everything required by a digger can be obtained for money, from +sugar-candy to potted anchovies; from East India pickles to Bass's pale +ale; from ankle jack boots to a pair of stays; from a baby's cap to a +cradle; and every apparatus for mining, from a pick to a needle. But +the confusion--the din--the medley--what a scene for a shop +walker! Here lies a pair of herrings dripping into a bag of sugar, or a +box of raisins; there a gay-looking bundle of ribbons beneath two +tumblers, and a half-finished bottle of ale. Cheese and butter, bread +and yellow soap, pork and currants, saddles and frocks, wide-awakes and +blue serge shirts, green veils and shovels, baby linen and tallow +candles, are all heaped indiscriminately together; added to which, +there are children bawling, men swearing, store-keeper sulky, and last, +not LEAST, women's tongues going nineteen to the dozen. + +Most of the store-keepers are purchasers of gold either for cash or in +exchange for goods, and many are the tricks from which unsuspecting +diggers suffer. One great and outrageous trick is to weigh the parcels +separately, or divide the whole, on the excuse that the weight would be +too much for the scales; and then, on adding up the grains and +pennyweights, the sellers often lose at least half an ounce. On one +occasion, out of seven pounds weight, a party once lost an ounce and +three quarters in this manner. There is also the old method of false +beams--one in favour of the purchaser--and here, unless the +seller weighs in both pans, he loses considerably. Another mode of +cheating is to have glass pans resting on a piece of green baize; under +this baize, and beneath the pan which holds the weights, is a wetted +sponge, which causes that pan to adhere to the baize, and consequently +it requires more gold to make it level; this, coupled with the false +reckoning, is ruinous to the digger. In town, the Jews have a system of +robbing a great deal from sellers before they purchase the gold-dust +(for in these instances it must be DUST): it is thrown into a zinc pan +with slightly raised sides, which are well rubbed over with grease; and +under the plea of a careful examination, the purchaser shakes and rubs +the dust, and a considerable quantity adheres to the sides. A commoner +practice still is for examiners of gold-dust to cultivate long +finger-nails, and, in drawing the fingers about it, gather some up. + +Sly grog selling is the bane of the diggings. Many--perhaps +nine-tenths--of the diggers are honest industrious men, desirous of +getting a little there as a stepping-stone to independence elsewhere; +but the other tenth is composed of outcasts and transports--the refuse +of Van Diemen's Land--men of the most depraved and abandoned +characters, who have sought and gained the lowest abyss of crime, and +who would a short time ago have expiated their crimes on a scaffold. +They generally work or rob for a space, and when well stocked with +gold, retire to Melbourne for a month or so, living in drunkenness and +debauchery. If, however, their holiday is spent at the diggings, the +sly grog-shop is the last scene of their boisterous career. Spirit +selling is strictly prohibited; and although Government will license a +respectable public-house on the ROAD, it is resolutely refused ON the +diggings. The result has been the opposite of that which it was +intended to produce. There is more drinking and rioting at the diggings +than elsewhere, the privacy and risk gives the obtaining it an +excitement which the diggers enjoy as much as the spirit itself; and +wherever grog is sold on the sly, it will sooner or later be the scene +of a riot, or perhaps murder. Intemperance is succeeded by quarrelling +and fighting, the neighbouring tents report to the police, and the +offenders are lodged in the lock-up; whilst the grog-tent, spirits, +wine, &c., are seized and taken to the Commissioners. Some of +the stores, however, manage to evade the law rather cleverly--as +spirits are not SOLD, "my friend" pays a shilling more for his fig of +tobacco, and his wife an extra sixpence for her suet; and they smile at +the store-man, who in return smiles knowingly at them, and then glasses +are brought out, and a bottle produced, which sends forth NOT a +fragrant perfume on the sultry air. + +It is no joke to get ill at the diggings; doctors make you pay for it. +Their fees are--for a consultation, at their own tent, ten shillings; +for a visit out, from one to ten pounds, according to time and +distance. Many are regular quacks, and these seem to flourish best. The +principal illnesses are weakness of sight, from the hot winds and sandy +soil, and dysentery, which is often caused by the badly-cooked food, +bad water, and want of vegetables. + +The interior of the canvas habitation of the digger is desolate enough; +a box on a block of wood forms a table, and this is the only furniture; +many dispense with that. The bedding, which is laid on the ground, +serves to sit upon. Diogenes in his tub would not have looked more +comfortless than any one else. Tin plates and pannicans, the +same as are used for camping up, compose the breakfast, dinner, and tea +service, which meals usually consist of the same dishes--mutton, +damper, and tea. + +In some tents the soft influence of our sex is pleasingly apparent: the +tins are as bright as silver, there are sheets as well as blankets on +the beds, and perhaps a clean counterpane, with the addition of a dry +sack or piece of carpet on the ground; whilst a pet cockatoo, chained +to a perch, makes noise enough to keep the "missus" from feeling lonely +when the good man is at work. Sometimes a wife is at first rather a +nuisance; women get scared and frightened, then cross, and commence a +"blow up" with their husbands; but all their railing generally ends in +their quietly settling down to this rough and primitive style of +living, if not without a murmur, at least to all appearance with the +determination to laugh and bear it. And although rough in their +manners, and not over select in their address, the digger seldom +wilfully injures a woman; in fact, a regular Vandemonian will, in his +way, play the gallant with as great a zest as a fashionable about +town--at any rate, with more sincerity of heart. + +Sunday is kept at the diggings in a very orderly manner; and +among the actual diggers themselves, the day of rest is taken in a +VERBATIM sense. It is not unusual to have an established clergyman +holding forth near the Commissioners' tent and almost within hearing +will be a tub orator expounding the origin of evil, whilst a "mill" (a +fight with fisticuffs) or a dog fight fills up the background. + +But night at the diggings is the characteristic time: murder +here--murder there--revolvers cracking--blunderbusses bombing--rifles +going off--balls whistling--one man groaning with a broken leg--another +shouting because he couldn't find the way to his hole, and a +third equally vociferous because he has tumbled into one--this man +swearing--an other praying--a party of bacchanals chanting various +ditties to different time and tune, or rather minus both. Here is one +man grumbling because he has brought his wife with him, another ditto +because he has left his behind, or sold her for an ounce of gold or a +bottle of rum. Donnybrook Fair is not to be compared to an evening at +Bendigo. + +Success at the diggings is like drawing lottery tickets--the +blanks far outnumber the prizes; still, with good health, strength, and +above all perseverance, it is strange if a digger does not in the end +reap a reward for his labour. Meanwhile, he must endure almost +incredible hardships. In the rainy season, he must not murmur if +compelled to work up to his knees in water, and sleep on the wet +ground, without a fire, in the pouring rain, and perhaps no shelter +above him more waterproof than a blanket or a gum tree; and this not +for once only, but day after day, night after night. In the summer, he +must work hard under a burning sun, tortured by the mosquito and the +little stinging March flies, or feel his eyes smart and his throat grow +dry and parched, as the hot winds, laden with dust, pass over him. How +grateful now would be a draught from some cold sparkling streamlet; +but, instead, with what sort of water must he quench his thirst? Much +the same, gentle reader, as that which runs down the sides of a dirty +road on a rainy day, and for this a shilling a bucket must be paid. +Hardships such as these are often the daily routine of a digger's life; +yet, strange to say, far from depressing the spirits or weakening the +frame, they appear in most cases to give strength and energy to +both. This is principally owing to the climate, which even in the wet +season is mild and salubrious. + +Perhaps nothing will speak better for the general order that prevails +at the diggings, than the small amount of physical force maintained +there by Government to keep some thousands of persons of all ages, +classes, characters, religions and countries in good humour with the +laws and with one another. The military force numbers 130, officers and +men; the police about 300. + +The Government escort is under the control of Mr. Wright, Chief +Commissioner; it consists of about forty foot and sixty mounted police, +with the usual complement of inspectors and sergeants; their uniform is +blue--with white facings, their head-quarters are by the +Commissioners' tent, Forest Creek. + +The private escort uniform is a plain blue frock coat and trowsers. It +is under the superintendence of Mr. Wilkinson; the head-quarters are at +Montgomery Hill, Forest Creek. Both these escorts charge one per cent +for conveying gold. + +For the Victoria diggings, there is a Chief Commissioner, one +Acting Resident Commissioner; one Assistant Commissioner at Ballarat, +one at Fryer's Creek, five at Forest Creek, and six at Bendigo. + +Provision is made by Government for the support, at the mines, of two +clergymen of each of the four State paid churches of England, Scotland, +Rome, and Wesleyan, at a salary of 300 pounds a year. + + + + +Chapter VII. + +EAGLE HAWK GULLY + + +Before commencing an account of our operations at the Eagle Hawk, it +will be necessary to write a few words in description of our +gold-digging party there; their Christian names will be sufficient +distinction, and will leave their incognito undisturbed. + +This party, as I have said before, consisted of five gentlemen, +including my brother. Of the latter I shall only say that he was young +and energetic, more accustomed to use his brains than his fingers, yet +with a robust frame, and muscles well strengthened by the various +exercises of boating, cricketing, &c., with which our embryo +collegians attempt to prepare themselves for keeping their "terms." + +Frank ------ (who, from being a married man, was looked up to as the head +of our rather juvenile party) was of a quiet and sedate disposition, +rather given to melancholy, for which in truth he had cause. His +marriage had taken place without the sanction--or rather in defiance of +the wishes--of his parents, for his wife was portionless, and in a +station a few grades, as they considered, below his own; moreover, +Frank himself was not of age. Private income, independent of his +parents, he had none. A situation as clerk in a merchant's office was +his only resource, and during three years he had eked out his salary to +support a delicate wife--whose ill health was a neverfailing source of +anxiety and expense--two infants, and himself. An unexpected legacy of +500 pounds from a distant relative at last seemed to open a brighter +prospect before them; and leaving his wife and children with their +relatives, he quitted England to seek in a distant land a better home than +all his exertions could procure for them in their own country. I never +felt surprised or offended at his silent and preoccupied manner, +accompanied at times by great depression of spirits, for it was an +awful responsibility for one so young, brought up as he had been in the +greatest luxury, as the eldest son of a wealthy merchant, to have not +only himself but others nearest and dearest to maintain by his own +exertions. + +William ------, a tall, slight, and rather delicate looking man, is the +next of our party whom I shall mention. His youth had been passed at +Christ's Hospital. This he quitted with the firm conviction (in which +all his friends of course participated) that he had been greatly +wronged by not having been elected a Grecian; and a rich uncle, incited +by the beforementioned piece of injustice, took him under his care, and +promised to settle him in the world as soon as a short apprenticeship +to business had been gone through. A sudden illness put a stop to all +these schemes. The physicians recommended change of air, a warmer +climate, a trip to Australia. William had relatives residing in +Melbourne, so the journey was quickly decided upon, a cabin taken; and +the invalid rapidly recovering beneath the exhilarating effects of the +sea-breezes. How refreshing are they to the sick! how caressingly does +the soft sea-air fan the wan cheeks of those exhausted with a life +passed amidst the brick walls and crowded, noisy streets of a city; +and William, who at first would have laughed at so ridiculous a +supposition, ere the four months' voyage was terminated, had gained +strength and spirits sufficient to make him determine to undertake a +trip to the diggings. + +He was a merry light-hearted fellow, fonder of a joke than hard work, +yet ever keeping a sharp eye to the "main chance," as the following +anecdote will prove. + +One day during our stay in Melbourne he came to me, and said, laughing: + +"Well! I've got rid of one of the bad HABITS I had on board the ----." + +"Which?" was my reply. + +"That old frock-coat I used to wear in the cold weather whilst we +rounded the Cape. A fellow down at Liardet's admired the cut, asked me +to sell it. I charged him four guineas, and walked into town in my +shirt-sleeves; soon colonized, eh?" + +Richard ------ was a gay young fellow of twenty, the only son of a rich +member of the stock Exchange. In a fit of spleen, because the +parental regulations required him always to be at home by midnight, he +shipped himself off to Australia, trusting that so energetic a step +"would bring the govenor to his senses." He was music-mad, and appeared +to know every opera by heart, and wearied us out of all patience with +his everlasting humming of "Ciascun lo dice" "Non piu mesta," &c. + +Octavius ------ was the eighth son of a poor professional man, who, after +giving him a good general education, sent him with a small capital to +try his fortune in the colonies. For this he was in every way well +fitted, being possessed of a strong constitution, good common sense, +and simple inexpensive habits; he was only nineteen, and the youngest +of the male portion of our party. + +The day after our arrival at the diggings, being Sunday, we passed in +making ourselves comfortable, and devising our future plans. We +determined to move from our present quarters, and pitch our tents +higher up the gully, near Montgomery's store. This we accomplished the +first thing on Monday morning and at about a hundred yards from us our +four shipmates also fixed themselves, which added both to our +comfort and security. + +A few words for their introduction. + +One of them was a Scotchman, who wished to make enough capital at the +mines to invest in a sheep-run; and as his countrymen are proverbially +fortunate in the colonies, I think it possible he may some time hence +be an Australian MILLIONAIRE. Another of these was an architect, who +was driven, as it were, to the diggings, because his profession, from +the scarcity of labour, was at the time almost useless in Melbourne. +The third was, or rather had been, a house-painter and decorator, who +unfortunately possessed a tolerably fine voice, which led him gradually +to abandon a good business to perform at concerts. Too late he found +that he had dropped the substance for the shadow; emigration seemed his +only resource; so leaving a wife and large family behind, he brought +his mortified vanity and ruined fortunes to begin the world anew with +in Australia. He was the only one whose means prevented him from taking +a share in our venture; but to avoid confusion, the Scotchman +subscribed twice the usual sum, thus securing double Profits. +The fourth was a gentleman farmer, whose sole enemy, by his account, +was Free Trade, and who held the names Cobden and Bright in utter +detestation. + +As soon as the tents were pitched, all set to work to unpack the dray: +and after taking out sufficient flour, sugar, tea, &c., for use, the +remainder of the goods were taken to the nearest store, where they were +sold at an average of five times their original costs: the most +profitable portion of the cargo consisted of some gunpowder and +percusion-caps. The day after, by good fortune, we disposed of the dray +and horses for 250 pounds, being only 40 pounds less than we paid for +them. As the cost of keeping horses at the diggings is very great +(sometimes two or three pounds a day per head), besides the constant risk +of their being lost or stolen, we were well satisfied with the bargain; +and never did mind young speculators, who five months previous had been +utter strangers, accomplish their undertaking to themselves, or less +disagreement one with another. + +This business settled, the next was to procure licences, which +was a walk of nearly five miles to the Commissioners' tent, Bendigo, +and wasted the best part of Wednesday. + +Meanwhile we were Seriously debating about again changing our quarters. +We found it almost impossible to sleep. Never before could I have +imagined that a woman's voice could utter sounds sufficiently +discordant to drive repose far from us, yet so it was. + +The gentlemen christened her "the amiable female." + +The tent of this "amiable" personage was situated at right angles with +ours and our shipmates, so that the annoyance was equally felt. Whilst +her husband was at work farther down the gully, she kept a sort of sly +grog-shop, and passed the day in selling and drinking spirits, +swearing, and smoking a short tobacco-pipe at the door of her tent. She +was a most repulsive looking object. A dirty gaudy-coloured dress hung +unfastened about her shoulders, coarse black hair unbrushed, uncombed, +dangled about her face, over which her evil habits had spread a +genuine bacchanalian glow, whilst in a loud masculine voice she uttered +the most awful words that ever disgraced the mouth of man ten +thousand times more awful when proceeding from a woman's lips. + +But night was the dreadful time; then, if her husband had been unlucky, +or herself made fewer profits during the day, it was misery to be +within earshot; so much so, that we decided to leave so uncomfortable a +neighbourhood without loss of time, and carrying our tents, &c., higher +up the gully we finally pitched them not far from the Portland Stores. + +This was done on Thursday, and the same evening two different claims +were marked out ready to commence working the next day. These claims +were the usual size, eight feet square. + +FRIDAY, 24.--Early this morning our late travelling companion, Joe, made +his appearance with a sack (full of bran, he said,) on his shoulders. +After a little confidential talk with William, he left the sack in our +tent, as he had no other safe place to stow it away in till the bran +was sold. This gave rise to no suspicion, and in the excitement of +digging was quite forgotten. + +About noon I contrived to have a damper and a large joint of baked +mutton ready for the "day labourers," as they styled themselves. The +mutton was baked in a large camp oven suspended from three iron bars, +which were fixed in the ground in the form of a triangle, about a yard +apart, and were joined together at the top, at which part the oven was +hung over a wood fire. This grand cooking machine was, of course, +outside the tent. Sometimes I have seen a joint of meat catch fire in +one of these ovens, and it is difficult to extinguish it before the fat +has burnt itself away, when the meat looks like a cinder. + +Our butcher would not let us have less than half a sheep at a time, for +which we paid 8s. I was not good housekeeper enough to know how much it +weighed, but the meat was very good. Flour was then a shilling a pound, +or two hundred pounds weight for nine pounds in money. Sugar was 1s. +6d., and tea 3s. 6d. Fortunately we were Well provided with these three +latter articles. + +The hungry diggers did ample justice to the dinner I had provided for +them. They brought home a tin-dish full of surface soil, which in +the course of the afternoon I attempted to wash. + +Tin-dish-washing is difficult to describe. It requires a watchful eye +and a skilful hand; it is the most mysterious department of the +gold-digging business. The tin dish (which, of course, is round) is +generally about eighteen inches across the top, and twelve across the +bottom, with sloping sides of three or four inches deep. The one I used +was rather smaller. Into it I placed about half the "dirt"--digger's +technical term for earth, or soil--that they had brought, filled the +dish up with water, and then with a thick stick commenced making it +into a batter; this was a most necessary commencement, as the soil was +of a very stiff clay. I then let this batter--I know no name more +appropriate for it--settle, and carefully poured off the water at the +top. I now added some clean water, and repeated the operation of mixing +it up; and after doing this several times, the "dirt," of course, +gradually diminishing, I was overjoyed to see a few bright specks, which +I carefully picked out, and with renewed energy continued this by no +means elegant work. Before the party returned to tea I had washed out all +the stuff, and procured from it nearly two pennyweights of gold-dust, +worth about 6s. or 7s. + +Tin-dish-washing is generally done beside a stream, and it is +astonishing how large a quantity of "dirt" those who have the knack of +doing it well and quickly can knock off in the course of the day. To do +this, however, requires great manual dexterity, and much gold is lost +by careless washing. A man once extracted ten pounds weight of the +precious metal from a heap of soil which his mate had washed too +hurriedly. + +In the evening Joe made his re-appearance, carrying another sack on his +shoulders, which contained a number of empty bottles, and now for the +first time we became initiated into the BRAN mystery which had often +puzzled us on the road--it seemed so strange a thing to carry up to the +diggings. Joe laughed at our innocence, and denied having told us +anything approaching a falsehood; a slight suppression of the truth was +all he would plead guilty to. I verily believe William had put him up +to this dodge, to make us smile when we should have felt annoyed. Being +taxed with deceit, said he: "I told you two-thirds truth; there +wanted but two more letters to make it BRANDY," and with the greatest +SANG-FROID he drew out a small keg of brandy from the first sack and +half-filled the bottles with the spirit, after which he filled them all +up to the neck with water. The bottles were then corked, and any or all +of them politely offered to us at the rate of 30s a piece. We declined +purchasing, but he sold them all during the evening, for which we were +rather glad, as, had they been discovered by the officials in our tent, +a fine of 50 pounds would have been the consequence of our foolish +comrades good-nature and joke-loving propensities. + +We afterwards found that Master Joe had played the same trick with our +shipmates and with the two doctors, who had bought a tent and settled +themselves near our old place by Montgomery's store. + +SATURDAY, 25.--The two holes were "bottomed" before noon with no paying +result. It had been hard work, and they were rather low-spirited about +it. The rest of the day they spent in washing some surface-soil, and +altogether collected about I ounce and a half of gold-dust, +counting the little I had washed out on the Friday. In the evening it +was all dried by being placed in a spade over a quick fire. We had +before determined to square accounts and divide the gold every Saturday +night, but this small quantity was not worth the trouble, so it was +laid by in the digger's usual treasury, a German match-box. These round +boxes hold on an average eight ounces of gold. + +These two unproductive holes had not been very deep. The top, or +surface soil, for which a spade or shovel is used, was of clay. This +was succeeded by a strata almost as hard as iron--technically called +"burnt stuff,"--which robbed the pick of its points nearly as soon as the +blacksmith had steeled them at a charge of 2s. 6d. a point. Luckily for +their arms, this strata was but thin, and the yellow or blue clay which +followed was comparatively easy work--here and there an awkward lump of +quartz required the use of the pick. Suddenly they came to some +glittering particles of yellow, which, with heartfelt delight they +hailed as gold. It WAS MICA. Many are at first deceived by it, but it +is soon distinguished by its weight, as the mica will blow away with +the slightest puff. After a little useless digging among the +clay, they reached the solid rock, and thus having fairly "bottomed," +the holes to no purpose, they abandoned them. + +SUNDAY, 26.--Although impossible at the diggings to keep this day with +those outward observances which are customary in civilized life, we +attempted to make as much difference as possible between the day of +rest and that of work. Frank performed the office of chaplain, and read +the morning service in the calm and serious manner which we expected +from him. + +I was rather amused to see the alacrity with which, when this slight +service was over, they all prepared to assist me in the formation of a +huge plum-pudding for the Sunday's dinner. Stoning plums and chopping +suet seemed to afford them immense pleasure--I suppose it was a +novelty; and, contrary to the fact implied in the old adage, "too many +cooks spoil the broth" our pudding turned out A1. + +In the afternoon we strolled about, and paid a visit to our shipmates. +I was certainly most agreeably surprised by the quiet and order that +everywhere prevailed. + +MONDAY, 27.--Today our party commenced "sinking" in a new spot at some +little distance. The first layer of black soil was removed, and on some +being washed in a tin dish, it was found to contain a tolerable portion +of gold, and was pronounced to be worth transporting to the tent to be +regularly cradled. My first official notice of this fact was from +Richard, who entered the tent humming "Suona la tromba," with a bucket +full of this heavy soil in each hand. He broke off in the middle of his +song to ask for some water to drink, and grumbled most energetically at +such dirty work. He then gave me an account of the morning's doings. +After a thin layer of the black surface soil, it appeared they had come +to a strata of thick yellow clay, in which gold was often very +abundant. This soil, from being so stiff, would require "puddling," a +work of which he did not seem to relish the anticipation. Before the +day was over, a great number of buckets full of both soils were brought +up and deposited in heaps near the tents. All, with the exception of +the "operatic" Richard, seemed in good spirits, and were well satisfied +with what had been done in so short a time. + +In the evening the other party of our shipmates arrived, and were busy +fixing their tent at a distance of about forty yards from us. Frank and +the other four, though pretty tired with the days labour, lent a +helping hand, the united efforts of nine speedily accomplished this +business, after which an immense quantity of cold mutton, damper, and +tea made a rapid disappearance, almost emptying my larder, which, by +the bye, was an old tea-chest. + +We asked our friends their motive for leaving the old spot, and they +declared they could stand the "amiable female" no longer; she grew +worse and worse. "Her tongue was sich" observed the Scotchman, "as wad +drive ony puir beastie wild." She had regularly quarrelled with the two +doctors because they would not give her a written certificate, that the +state of her health required the constant use of spirits. She offered them +two guineas for it, which they indignantly refused, and she then declared +her intention of injuring their practice as much as possible, which she +had power to do, as her tent was of an evening quite the centre of +attraction and her influence proportionably great. Pity 'tis that such a +woman should be able to mar or make the fortunes of her fellow +creatures. + +TUESDAY, 28.--The holes commenced yesterday were duly "bottomed," but no +nice pocket-full of gold was the result; our shipmates, however, met +with better success, having found three small nuggets weighing two to +four ounces each at a depth of not quite five feet from the surface. + +WEDNESDAY, 29.--To-day was spent in puddling and cradling. + +Puddling is on the same principle as tin-dish-washing, only on a much +larger scale. Great wooden tubs are filled with the dirt and fresh +water, and the former is chopped about in all directions with a spade, +so as to set the metal free from the adhesive soil and pipe-clay. +Sometimes I have seen energetic diggers tuck up their trowsers, off +with their boots, step into the tub, and crush it about with their feet +in the same manner as tradition affirms that the London bakers knead +their bread. Every now and again the dirtied water is poured off +gently, and with a fresh supply, which is furnished by a mate with a +long-handled dipper from the stream or pool, you puddle away. The +great thing is, not to be afraid Of over-work, for the better +the puddling is, so much the more easy and profitable is the cradling. +After having been well beaten in the tubs, the "dirt" is put into the +hopper of the cradle, which is then rocked gently, whilst another party +keeps up a constant supply of fresh water. In the right hand of the +cradler is held a thick stick, ready to break up any clods which may be +in the hopper, but which a good puddler would not have sent there. + +There was plenty of water near us, for a heavy rain during the night +had filled several vacated holes, and as there were five pair of hands, +we hoped, before evening, greatly to diminish our mud-heaps. + +Now for an account of our proceedings. + +Two large wooden tubs were firmly secured in the ground and four set to +work puddling, whilst Frank busied himself in fixing the cradle. He +drove two blocks into the ground; they were grooved for the rockers of +the cradle to rest in, so as to let it rock with ease and regularity. +The ground was lowered so as to give the cradle a slight slant, and +thus enable the water to run off more quickly. If a cradle dips +too much, a little gold may wash off with the light sand. The cradling +machine, though simple in itself, is rather difficult to describe. In +shape and size it resembles an infant's cradle, and over that portion +of it where, if for a baby, a hood would be, is a perforated plate with +wooden sides, a few inches high all round, forming a sort of box with +the perforated plate for a bottom; this box is called the hopper. The +dirt is here placed, and the constant supply of water, after well +washing the stuff, runs out through a hole made at the foot of the +cradle. The gold generally rests on a wooden shelf under the hopper, +though sometimes a good deal will run down with the water and dirt into +one of the compartments at the bottom, and to separate it from the sand +or mud, tin-dish-washing is employed. + +As soon as sufficient earth was ready, one began to rock, and another +to fill the hopper with water. Richard continued puddling, William, +enacted Aquarius for him, whilst a fifth was fully occupied in +conveying fresh dirt to the tubs, and taking the puddled stuff from +them to the hopper of the cradle. Every now and then a change of hands +was made, and thus passed the day. In the evening, the products +were found to be one small nugget weighing a quarter of an ounce, and +in gold-dust eight pennyweights, ten grains, being worth, at the +digging price for gold, about thirty-five shillings. This was rather +less than we hard less calculated upon, and Richard signified his +intention of returning to Melbourne, "He could no longer put up with +such ungentlemanly work in so very unintellectual a neighbourhood, with +bad living into the bargain." These last words, which were pronounced +SOTTO VOCE, gave us a slight clue to the real cause of his dislike to +the diggings, though we, did not thoroughly understand it till next +morning. It originated in some bottles of mixed pickles which he had in +vain wanted Frank, who this week was caterer for the party, to purchase +at four shillings a bottle, which sum, as we were all on economical +thoughts intent, Frank refused to expend on any unnecessary article of +food. This we learnt next morning at breakfast, when Richard +congratulated himself on that being the last meal he should make of +tea, damper and muton, without the latter having something to render it +eatable. The puddling and cradling work had, I fancy, given the +finishing stroke to his disgust. Poor Dick! he met with little +commiseration: we could not but remember the thousands in the old +country who would have rejoiced at the simple fare he so much despised. +William, in his laughing way, observed, "that he was too great a pickle +himself, without buying fresh ones." + +Richard left us on Thursday morning, and with him went one of the other +party, the house-painter and decorator, who also found gold-digging not +so Pleasant as he had expected. We afterwards learnt that before +reaching Kilmore they separated. Richard arrived safely in Melbourne, +and entered a goldbroker's office at a salary of three pounds a week, +which situation I believe he now fills; and as "the governor," to use +Richard's own expression, "has not yet come to his senses," he must +greatly regret having allowed his temper to be the cause of his leaving +the comforts of home. His companion, who parted with Richard at +Kilmore, was robbed of what little gold he had, and otherwise +maltreated, whilst passing through the Black Forest. On reaching +Melbourne, he sold everything he possessed, and that not being +sufficient, he borrowed enough to pay his passage back to +England, where, doubtless, he will swell the number of those whose lack +of success in the colonies, and vituperations against them, are only +equalled by their unfitness ever to have gone there. + +Thursday was past in puddling and cradling, with rather better results +than on the first day, still it was not to our satisfaction, and on +Friday two pits were sunk. One was shallow, and the bottom reached +without a speck of gold making its appearance. The other was left over +till the next morning. This was altogether very disheartening work, +particularly as the expenses of living were not small. There were many, +however, much worse off than ourselves, though here and there a lucky +digger excited the envy of all around him. Many were the tricks +resorted to in order to deceive new-comers. Holes were offered for +sale, in which the few grains that were carefully placed in sight was +all that the buyer gained by his purchase. + +A scene of this description was enacted this Friday evening, at a +little distance from us. The principal actors in it were two in number. +One sat a little way from his hole with a heap of soil by his +side, and a large tin dish nearly full of dirt in his hand. As he +swayed the dish to and fro in the process of washing, an immense +number of small nuggets displayed themselves, which fact in a loud tone +he announced to his "mate", at the same time swearing at him for +keeping at work so late in the evening. This digger, who was shovelling +up more dirt from the hole, answered in the same elegant language, +calling him an "idle good-for-nought." Every now and then he threw a +small nugget to the tin-dish-washer, loudly declaring, "he'd not leave +off while them bright bits were growing thick as taters underground." + +"Then be d----d if I don't!" shouted the other; "and I'll sell the hole +for two hundred yeller boys down." + +This created a great sensation among the bystanders, who during the +time had collected round, and among whom was a party of three, +evidently "new chums." + +"It shall go for a hundred and fifty!" again shouted the washer, giving +a glance in the direction in which they stood. + +"Going for a hundred, tin-dish as well!" letting some of the +water run off, and displaying the gold. + +This decided the matter, and one of the three stepped forward and +offered the required sum. + +"Money down," said the seller; "these here fellers 'll witness it's all +reg'lar." + +The money was paid in notes, and the purchasers were about to commence +possession by taking the tin-dish out of his hand. + +"Wait till he's emptied. I promised yer the dish, but not the stuff in +it," and turning out the dirt into a small tub the two worthies +departed, carrying the tub away with them. + +Not a grain of gold did the buyers find in the pit next morning. + +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 2.--This day found the four hard at work at an early +hour, and words will not describe our delight when they hit upon a +"pocket" full of the precious metal. The "pocket" was situated in a dark +corner of the hole, and William was the one whose fossicking-knife +first brought its hidden beauties to light. Nugget after nugget did +that dirty soil give up; by evening they had taken out five +pounds weight of gold. Foolish Richard! we all regretted his absence at +this discovery. + +As the next day was the Sabbath, thirty-six hours of suspense must +elapse before we could know whether this was but a passing kindness +from the fickle goddess, or the herald of continued good fortune. + +This night, for the first time, we were really in dread of an attack, +though we had kept our success quite secret, not even mentioning it to +our shipmates; nor did we intend to do so until Monday morning, when +our first business would be to mark out three more claims round the +lucky spot, and send our gold down to the escort-office for security. +For the present we were obliged to content ourselves with "planting" +it--that is, burying it in the ground; and not a footstep passed in our +neighbourhood without our imagining ourselves robbed of the precious +treasure, and as it was Saturday night--the noisiest and most riotous at +the diggings--our panics were neither few nor far between. So true it is +that riches entail trouble and anxiety on their possessor. + + + + +Chapter VIII. + +AN ADVENTURE + + +SUNDAY 3.--A fine morning. After our usual service Frank, my brother, +and myself, determined on an exploring expedition, and off we went, +leaving the dinner in the charge of the others. We left the busy throng +of the diggers far behind us, and wandered into spots where the sound +of the pick and shovel, or the noise of human traffic, had never +penetrated. The scene and the day were in unison; all was harmonious, +majestic, and serene. Those mighty forests, hushed in a sombre and +awful silence; those ranges of undulating hill and dale never yet +trodden by the foot of man; the soft still air, so still that +it left every leaf unruffled, flung an intensity of awe over our +feelings, and led us from the contemplation of nature to worship +nature's God. + +We sat in silence for some while deeply impressed by all around us, +and, whilst still sitting and gazing there, a change almost +imperceptibly came over the face of both earth and sky. The forest +swayed to and fro, a sighing moaning sound was borne upon the wind, and +a noise as of the rush of waters, dark massive clouds rolled over the +sky till the bright blue heavens were completely hidden, and then, ere +we had recovered from our first alarm and bewilderment, the storm in +its unmitigated fury burst upon us. The rain fell in torrents, and we +knew not where to turn. + +Taking me between them, they succeeded in reaching an immense shea-oak, +under which we hoped to find some shelter till the violence of the rain +had diminished; nor where we disappointed, though it was long before we +could venture to leave our place of refuge. At length however, we did +so, and endeavoured to find our way back to Eagle Hawk Gully. Hopeless +task! The ground was so slippery, it was as much as we could do +to walk without falling; the mud and dirt clung to our boots, and a +heavy rain beat against our faces and nearly blinded us. + +"It is clearing up to windward," observed Frank; "another half-hour and +the rain will be all but over; let us return to our tree again." + +We did so. Frank was correct; in less than the time he had specified a +slight drizzling rain was all of the storm that remained. + +With much less difficulty we again attempted to return home, but before +very long we made the startling discovery that we had completely lost +our way, and to add to our misfortune the small pocket-compass, which +Frank had brought with him, and which would have now so greatly +assisted us, was missing, most probably dropped from his pocket during +the skirmish to get under shelter. We still wandered along till stopped +by the shades of evening, which came upon us--there is little or no +twilight in Australia. + +We seated ourselves upon the trunk of a fallen tree, wet, hungry, and, +worst of all, ignorant of where we were. Shivering with cold, +and our wet garments hanging most uncomfortably around us, we +endeavoured to console one another by reflecting that the next morning +we could not fail to reach our tents. The rain had entirely ceased, and +providentially for us the night was pitch dark--I say providentially, +because after having remained for two hours in this wretched plight a +small light in the distance became suddenly visible to us all, so +distant, that but for the intensity of the darkness it might have +passed unnoticed. "Thank God!" simultaneously burst from our lips. + +"Let us hasten there," cried Frank, "a whole night like this may be +your sister's death and would ruin the constitution of a giant." + +To this we gladly acceded, and were greatly encouraged by perceiving +that the light remained stationary. But it was a perilous undertaking. +Luckily my brother had managed to get hold of a long stick with which +he sounded the way, for either large stones or water-holes would have +been awkward customers in the dark; wonderful to relate we escaped +both, and when within hailing distance of the light, which we perceived +came from a torch hold by some one, we shouted with all our +remaining strength, but without diminishing our exertions to reach it. +Soon--with feelings that only those who have encountered similar dangers +can understand--answering voices fell upon our ears. Eagerly we pressed +forward, and in the excitement of the moment we relinquished all hold +of one another, and attempted to wade through the mud singly. + +"Stop! halt!" shouted more than one stentorian voice; but the warning +came too late. My feet slipped--a sharp pain succeeded by a sudden +chill--a feeling of suffocation--of my head being ready to burst--and I +remembered no more. + +When I recovered consciousness it was late in the morning, for the +bright sun shone upon the ground through the crevices of a sail cloth +tent, and so different was all that met my eyes to the dismal scene +through which I had so lately passed, and which yet haunted my memory, +that I felt that sweet feeling of relief which we experience when, +waking from some horrid vision, we become convinced how unsubstantial +are its terrors, and are ready to smile at the pain they excited. + +That I was in a strange place became quickly evident, and among the +distant hum of voices which ever and anon broke the silence not one +familiar tone could I recognize. I endeavoured to raise myself so as to +hear more distinctly, and then it was that an acute pain in the ankle +of the right foot, gave me pretty strong evidence as to the reality of +the last night's adventures. I was forced to lie down again, but not +before I had espied a hand-bell which lay within reach on a small +barrel near my bed. Determined as far as possible to fathom the +mystery, I rang a loud peal with it, not doubting but what it would +bring my brother to me. My surprise and delight may be easier imagined +than described, when, as though in obedience to my summons, I saw a +small white hand push aside the canvas at one corner of the tent, and +one of my own sex entered. + +She was young and fair; her step was soft and her voice most musically +gentle. Her eyes were a deep blue, and a rich brown was the colour of +her hair, which she wore in very short curls all round her head and +parted on one side, which almost gave her the appearance of a pretty +boy. + +These little particulars I noticed afterwards; at that time I only felt +that her gentle voice and kind friendliness of manner inexpressibly +soothed me. + +After having bathed my ankle, which I found to be badly sprained and +cut, she related, as far as she was acquainted with them, the events +the previous evening. I learnt that these tents belonged to a party +from England, of one of whom she was the wife, and the tent in which I +lay was her apartment. They had not been long at the diggings, and +preferred the spot where they were to the more frequented parts. + +The storm of yesterday had passed over them without doing much damage, +and as their tents were well painted over the tops, they managed to +keep themselves tolerably dry; but later in the evening, owing to the +softness of the ground, one of the side-posts partly gave way, which +aroused them all, and torches were lit, and every one busied in trying +to prop it up till morning. Whilst thus engaged they heard our voices +calling for help. They answered, at the same time getting ready some +more torches before, advancing to meet us, as there were +several pit-holes between us and them. Their call for us to remain +stationary came too late to save me from slipping into one of their +pits, thereby spraining my ankle and otherwise hurting myself, besides +being buried to my forehead in mud and water. The pit was not quite +five feet deep, but, unfortunately for myself in this instance, I +belong to the pocket edition of the feminine sex. They soon extricated +me from this perilous situation, and carried me to their tents, where, +by the assistance of my new friend, I was divested of the mud that +still clung to me, and placed into bed. + +Before morning the storm, which we all thought had passed over, burst +forth with redoubled fury; the flashes of lightning were succeeded by +loud peals of thunder, and the rain came splashing down. Their tents +were situated on a slight rise, or they would have run great risk of +being washed away; every hole was filled with water, and the shea-oak, +of whose friendly shelter we had availed ourselves the evening before, +was struck by lightning, shivered into a thousand pieces. After a while +the storm abated, and the warm sun and a drying wind were quickly +removing all traces of it. + +Frank and my brother, after an early breakfast, had set out for Eagle +Hawk Gully under the guidance of my fair friend's husband, who knew the +road thither very well; it was only three miles distant. He was to +bring back with him a change of clothing for me, as his wife had +persuaded my brother to leave me in her charge until I had quite +recovered from the effects of the accident, "which he more readily +promised," she observed, "as we are not quite strangers, having met +once before." + +This awakened my curiosity, and I would not rest satisfied till fully +acquainted with the how, when, and where. Subsequently she related to +me some portion of the history of her life, which it will be no breach +of confidence to repeat here. + +Short as it is, however, it is deserving of another chapter. + + + + +Chapter IX. + +HARRIETTE WALTERS + + +Harriette Walters had been a wife but twelve months, when the sudden +failure of the house in which her husband was a junior partner involved +them in irretrievable ruin, and threw them almost penniless upon the +world. At this time the commercial advantages of Australia, the opening +it afforded for all classes of men, and above all, its immense mineral +wealth, were the subject of universal attention. Mr. Walters' friends +advised him to emigrate, and the small sum saved from the wreck of +their fortune served to defray the expenses of the journey. Harriette, +sorely against her wishes, remained behind with an old maiden +aunt, until her husband could obtain a home for her in the colonies. + +The day of parting arrived; the ship which bore him away disappeared +from her sight, and almost heart-broken she returned to the humble +residence of her sole remaining relative. + +Ere she had recovered from the shock occasioned by her husband's +departure, her aged relation died from a sudden attack of illness, and +Harriette was left alone to struggle with her poverty and her grief. +The whole of her aunt's income had been derived from an annuity, which +of course died with her; and her personal property, when sold, realized +not much more than sufficient to pay a few debts and the funeral +expenses; so that when these last sad duties were performed, Harriette +found herself with a few pounds in her pocket, homeless, friendless, +and alone. + +Her thoughts turned to the distant land, her husband's home, and every +hope was centred in the one intense desire to join him there. The means +were wanting, she had none from whom she could solicit assistance, but +her determination did not fail. She advertized for a situation +as companion to an invalid, or nurse to young children, during the +voyage to Port Philip, provided her passage-money was paid by her +employer. This she soon obtained. The ship was a fast sailer, the winds +were favourable, and by a strange chance she arrived in Melbourne three +weeks before her husband. This time was a great trial to her. Alone and +unprotected in that strange, rough city, without money, without +friends, she felt truly wretched. It was not a place for a female to be +without a protector, and she knew it, yet protector she had none; even +the family with whom she had come out, had gone many miles up the +country. She possessed little money, lodgings and food were at an awful +price, and employment for a female, except of a rough sort, was not +easily procured. + +In this dilemma she took the singular notion into her head of +disguising her sex, and thereby avoiding much of the insult and +annoyance to which an unprotected female would have been liable. Being +of a slight figure, and taking the usual colonial costume--loose +trowsers, a full, blue serge shirt, fastened round the waist by +a leather belt, and a wide-awake--Harriette passed very well for what +she assumed to be--a young lad just arrived from England. She +immediately obtained a light situation near the wharf, where for about +three weeks she worked hard enough at a salary of a pound a week, +board, and permission to sleep in an old tumbledown shed beside the +store. + +At last the long looked-for vessel arrived. That must have been a +moment of intense happiness which restored her to her husband's +arms--for him not unmingled with surprise; he could not at first +recognize her in her new garb. She would hear of no further separation, +and when she learnt he had joined a party for the Bendigo diggings, she +positively refused to remain in Melbourne, and she retained her boyish +dress until their arrival at Bendigo. The party her husband belonged to +had two tents, one of which they readily gave up to the married couple, +as they were only too glad to have the company and in-door assistance +of a sensible, active woman during their spell at the diggings. For the +sake of economy, during the time that elapsed before they could +commence their journey up, all of them lived in the tents which +they pitched on a small rise on the south side of the Yarra. Here it +was that our acquaintance first took place; doubtless, my readers will, +long ere this, have recognized in the hospitable gentleman I +encountered there, my friend's husband, and, in the delicate-looking +youth who had so attracted my attention, the fair Harriette herself. + + * * * * * + +But--REVENONS A NOS MOUTONS. + +On the third day of my visit I was pronounced convalescent, and that +evening my brother and William came to conduct me back to Eagle Hawk +Gully. It was with no little regret that I bade farewell to my new +friend, and I must confess that the pleasure of her society had for the +time made me quite careless as to the quantity of gold our party might +be taking up during my absence. Whilst walking towards our tents, I +heard the full particulars of their work, which I subjoin, so as to +resume the thread of my DIGGING narrative in a proper manner. + +MONDAY.--Much upset by their anxiety occasioned by the non-appearance +the previous evening of Frank, my brother, and myself. The two +former did not reach home till nearly noon, the roads were so heavy. +After dinner all set to work in better spirits; came to the end of the +gold--took out nearly four Pounds weight. + +TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY.--Digging various holes in the vicinity of the +lucky spot, but without success. The other party did the same with no +better result. + +Such were the tidings that I heard after my three days' absence. + +THURSDAY.--To-day was spent in prospecting--that is, searching for a +spot whose geological formation gives some promise of the precious +metal. In the evening, William and Octavius returned with the news that +they had found a place at some, distance from the gully, which they +thought would prove "paying," as they had washed some of the surface +soil, which yielded well. It was arranged that the party be divided +into two, and take alternate days to dig there. + +FRIDAY.--In pursuance of the foregoing plan William and Octavius set +off, carrying a good quantity of dinner and their tools along with +them. They worked hard enough during the day, but only brought +back three pennyweights of gold-dust with them. My brother and Frank +gained a deal more by surface washing at home. + +SATURDAY.--Changed hands. Frank and my brother to the new spot, digging. +Octavius and William surface washing. There results were much the same +as the day before. + +SUNDAY, OCTOBER 10--We took advantage of the fine weather to pay a visit +to Harriette and her party. We found them in excellent spirits, for at +last they had hit upon a rich vein, which had for three days been +yielding an average of four pounds weight a day, and was not yet +exhausted. I say AT LAST, for I have not before mentioned that they had +never obtained more than an ounce of gold altogether, up to the day I +left them. We were sincerely pleased with their good fortune. Harriette +hoped that soon they might be able to leave this wild sort of life, and +purchase a small farm, and once again have a home of their own. This +could not be done near Melbourne, so they meant to go to South +Australia, where any quantity of land may be bought. In THIS colony no +smaller quantity than a square mile--640 acres--is sold by the +Government in one lot; consequently, those whose capital is unequal to +purchase this, go to some other colony, and there invest the wealth +they have acquired in Victoria. + +As we had some idea of leaving Eagle Hawk Gully, I bade Harriette +farewell. We never expected to meet again. It chanced otherwise; but I +must not anticipate. + +Monday and Tuesday were most unprofitably passed in digging holes; and +on Tuesday night we determined to leave the Eagle Hawk, and try our +fortune in some of the neighbouring gullies. + +Wednesday was a bustling day. We sold our tent, tools, cradle, &c., as +we knew plenty were always to be bought of those who, like ourselves, +were changing their place. Had we known what we were about, we should +never have burdened ourselves by bringing so many goods and chattels a +hundred and twenty miles or more up the country; but "experience +teaches." Having parted with all encumbrances, myself excepted, we +started for the Iron Bark Gully. All the gold had been transmitted by +the escort to Melbourne, and one fine nugget, weighing nearly five +ounces, had been sent to Richard. We could not resist the +pleasure of presenting him with it, although by our rules not entitled +to any of the proceeds. + +The following are the rules by which our affairs were regulated. They +were drawn up before leaving Melbourne, and signed by all. Though crude +and imperfect, they were sufficient to preserve complete harmony and +good fellowship between five young men of different character, taste, +and education--a harmony and good fellowship which even Richard's +withdrawal did not interrupt. + +The rules were these: + +1. No one party to be ruler; but every week by turn, one to buy, sell, +take charge of gold, and transact all business matters. + +2. The gold to be divided, and accounts settled every Saturday night. + +3. Any one voluntarily leaving the party, to have one-third of his +original share in the expense of purchasing tent and tools returned to +him, but to have no further claim upon them or upon the gold that may +be found after his withdrawal. Any one dismissed the party for +misconduct, to forfeit all claim upon the joint property. + +4. The party agree to stand by one another in all danger, difficulty, +or illness. + +5. Swearing, gambling, and drinking spirits to be strictly avoided. + +6. Morning service to be read every Sunday morning. + +7. All disputes or appeals from the foregoing rules to be settled by a +majority. + + + + +Chapter X. + +IRONBARK GULLY + + +I have said little in description of the Eagle Hawk, for all gullies or +valleys at the diggings bear a strong external resemblance one to +another. This one differed from others only in being much longer and +wider; the sides, as is usually the case in the richest gullies, were +not precipitous, but very gradual; a few mountains closed the +background. The digging was in many places very shallow, and the soil +was sometimes of a clayey description, sometimes very gravelly with +slate bottom, sometimes gravelly with pipeclay bottom, sometimes quite +sandy; in fact, the earth was of all sorts and depths. + +At one time there were eight thousand diggers together in Eagle Hawk +Gully. This was some months before we visited it. During the period of +our stay at Bendigo there were not more than a thousand, and fewer +still in the Iron Bark. The reasons for this apparent desertion were +several. + +The weather continued wet and uncertain, so that many who had gone down +to Melbourne remained there, not yet considering the ground +sufficiently recovered from the effects of the prolonged wet season, +they had no desire to run the risk of being buried alive in their +holes. Many had gone to the Adelaide diggings, of which further +particulars hereafter, and many more had gone across the country to the +Ovens, or, farther still, to the Sydney diggings themselves. According +to digging parlance, "the Turon was looking up," and Bendigo, Mount +Alexander, and Forest Creek were thinned accordingly. But perhaps the +real cause of their desertion arose from the altered state of the +diggings. Some time since one party netted 900 pounds in three weeks; +100 pounds a week was thought nothing wonderful. Four men found one day +seventy-five pounds weight; another party took from the foot of a tree +gold to the value of 2000 pounds. A friend of mine once met a man whom he +knew returning to Melbourne, walking in dusty rags and dirt behind a dray, +yet carrying with him 1,500 pounds worth of gold. In Peg Leg Gully, fifty +and even eighty pounds weight had been taken from holes only three or four +feet deep. At Forest Creek a hole produced sixty pounds weight in one +day, and forty more the day after. From one of the golden gullies a +party took up the incredible quantity of one hundred and ninety-eight +pounds weight in six weeks. These are but two or three instances out of +the many that occurred to prove the richness of this truly auriferous +spot. The consequence may be easily imagined; thousands flocked to +Bendigo. The "lucky bits" were still as numerous, but being +disseminated among a greater number of diggers, it followed that there +were many more blanks than prizes, and the disappointed multitude were +ready to be off to the first new discovery. Small gains were beneath +their notice. I have often heard the miners say that they would rather +spend their last farthing digging fifty holes, even if they found +nothing in them, than "tamely" earn an ounce a day by washing +the surface soil; on the same principle, I suppose, that a gambler +would throw up a small but certain income to be earned by his own +industry, for the uncertain profits of the cue or dice. + +For ourselves, we had nothing to complain about. During the short space +of time that we had been at Eagle Hawk Gully, we had done as well as +one in fifty, and might therefore be classed among the lucky diggers; +but "the more people have, the more they want;" and although the many +pounds weight of the precious metal that our party had "taken up" gave, +when divided, a good round sum a-piece, the avaricious creatures bore +the want of success that followed more unphilosophically than they had +done before the rich "pocketful" of gold had made its appearance. They +would dig none but shallow holes, and a sort of gambling manner of +setting to work replaced the active perseverance they had at first +displayed. + +Some days before we left, Eagle Hawk Gully had been condemned as a +"worthless place," and a change decided on. The when and the +where were fixed much in the following manner: + +"I say, mates," observed William on the evening of the Sunday on which +I had paid my last visit to Harriette, "I say, mates, nice pickings a +man got last week in the Iron Bark--only twenty pounds weight out of one +hole; that's all." + +"Think it's true?" said Octavius, quietly. + +"Of course; likely enough. I propose we pack up our traps, and honour +this said gully with our presence forthwith." + +"Let's inquire first," put in Frank; "it's foolish to change good +quarters on such slight grounds." + +"Good quarters! slight grounds!" cried William; "what next? what would +you have? Good quarters! yes, as far as diggings concerned--whether you +find anything for your digging is another matter. Slight grounds, +indeed! twenty pounds weight in one day! Yes, we ought to inquire; +you're right there, old boy, and the proper place to commence our +inquiries is at the gully itself. Let's be off tomorrow." + +"Wait two days longer," said Octavius "and I am agreeable." + +And this, after a little chaffing between the impatient William and his +more business-like comrades, was satisfactorily arranged. + +Behold us then, on Wednesday the 13th, after having sold all our goods +that were saleable, making our way to the Iron Bark Gully. William +enacted the part of auctioneer, which he did in a manner most +satisfactory to himself, and amusing to his audience; but the things +sold very badly, so many were doing the same. The tents fetched only a +few shillings each, and the tools, cradles, &c., EN MASSE, were knocked +down for half a sovereign. + +The morning was rather cloudy, which made our pedestrian mode of +travelling not so fatiguing as it might have been, had the sun in true +colonial strength been shining upon us. This was very fortunately not +the case, for we more than once mistook our way, and made a long walk +out of a short one--quite a work of supererogation--for the roads were +heavy and tiring enough without adding an extra quantity of them. + +We passed in the close neighbourhood of Sailor's, Californian, +American, Long, and Piccaninny Gullies before reaching our destination. +Most of these gullies are considered ransacked, but a very fair amount +of gold-dust may be obtained in either by the new comer by tin-dish +fossicking in deserted holes. These deserted gullies, as they are +called, contained in each no trifling population, and looked full +enough for comfortable working. What must they have resembled the +summer previous, when some hundreds of people leaving a flat or gully +was but as a handful of sand from the sea-shore! + +Before evening we arrived at the Iron Bark. This gully takes its name +from the splendid trees with which it abounds; and their immense +height, their fluted trunks and massive branches gave them a most +majestic appearance. We paused beneath one in a more secluded part, and +there determined to fix our quarters for the night. The heavy "swags" +were flung upon the ground, and the construction of something +resembling a tent gave them plenty to do; the tomahawks, which they +carried in their belts, were put into immediate requisition, and some +branches of the trees were soon formed into rough tent-poles. The tent, +however, though perhaps as good as could be expected, was +nothing very wonderful after all, being made only of some of the +blankets which our party had brought in their swags. Beneath it I +reposed very comfortably; and, thanks to my fatiguing walk, slept as +soundly as I could possibly have done beneath the roof of a palace. The +four gentlemen wrapped themselves in their blankets, and laid down to +rest upon the ground beside the fire; their only shelter was the +foliage of the friendly tree which spread its branches high above our +heads. + +Next morning William was for settling ourselves in the gully. He wanted +tents, tools, &c., purchased, but by dint of much talking and +reasoning, we persuaded him first to look well about, and judge from +the success of others whether we were likely to do any good by stopping +there. We soon heard the history of the "twenty-pound weight" story. As +Frank and Octavius had at once surmised, it originated in a party who +were desirous to sell their claims and baggage before starting for +Melbourne. I believe they succeeded--there are always plenty of "new +chums" to be caught and taken in--and the report had caused a slight +rush of diggers, old and new, to the gully. Many of these +diggers had again departed, others stayed to give the place a trial; we +were not among the latter. The statements of those who were still +working were anything but satisfactory, and we were all inclined to +push on to Forest Creek. + +Meanwhile, it is Thursday afternoon. All but Frank appear disposed for +a siesta; he alone seems determined on a walk. I offer myself and am +accepted as a companion, and off we go together to explore this new +locality. + +We proceeded up the gully. Deserted holes there were in numbers, many a +great depth, and must have cost a vast amount of manual labour. In some +places the diggers were hard at work, and the blows of the pick, the +splash of water, and the rocking of the cradle made the diggings seem +themselves again. There were several women about, who appeared to take +as active an interest in the work as their "better halves." They may +often be seen cradling with an infant in their arms. A man and a cart +preceeded us up the gully. Every now and again he shouted out in a +stentorian voice that made the welkin ring; and the burden of his cry +was this: + +"'Ere's happles, happles, Vandemonian happles, and them as dislikes the +hiland needn't heat them." + +The admirers of the fertile island must have been very numerous, for +his customers soon made his pippins disappear. + +We passed a butcher's shop, or rather tent, which formed a curious +spectacle. The animals, cut into halves or quarters, were hung round; +no small joints there--half a sheep or none; heads, feet, and skins were +lying about for any one to have for the trouble of picking up, and a +quantity of goods of all sorts and sizes, gridirons, saucepans, +cradles, empty tea-chests, were lying scattered around in all +directions ticketed "for sale." We quickly went on, for it was not a +particularly pleasant sight, and at some distance perceived a quiet +little nook rather out of the road, in which was one solitary tent. We +hastened our steps, and advanced nearer, when we perceived that the +tent was made of a large blanket suspended over a rope, which was tied +from one tree to another. The blanket was fastened into the ground by +large wooden pegs. Near to the opening of the tent, upon a piece of +rock, sat a little girl of about ten years old. By her side was +a quantity of the coarse green gauze of which the diggers' veils are +made. She was working at this so industriously, and her little head was +bent so fixedly over her fingers that she did not notice our approach. +We stood for some minutes silently watching her, till Frank, wishing to +see more of her countenance, clapped his hands noisily together for the +purpose of rousing her. + +She started, and looked up. What a volume of sorrow and of suffering +did those pale features speak! + +Suddenly a look of pleasure flashed over her countenance. She sprang +from her seat, and advancing towards Frank, exclaimed: + +"Maybe you'll be wanting a veil, Sir. I've plenty nice ones, stronger, +better, and cheaper than you'll get at the store. Summer dust's coming, +Sir. You'll want one, won't you? I havn't sold one this week," she +added, almost imploringly, perceiving what she fancied a "no-customer" +look in his face. + +"I'll have one, little girl," he answered in a kindly tone, "and what +price is it to be?" + +"Eighteen pence, Sir, if you'd please be so good." + +Frank put the money into her hand, but returned the veil. This action +seemed not quite to satisfy her; either she did not comprehend what he +meant, or it hurt her self-pride, for she said quickly: + +"I havn't only green veils--p'raps you'd like some candles better--I +makes them too." + +"YOU make them?" said Frank, laughing as he glanced at the little hands +that were still holding the veil for his acceptance. "YOU make them? +Your mother makes the candles, you mean." + +"I have no mother now," said she, with an expression of real melancholy +in her countenance and voice. "I makes the candles and the veils, and +the diggers they buys them of me, cos grandfather's ill, and got nobody +to work for him but me." + +"Where do you and your grandfather live?" I asked. "In there?" pointing +to the blanket tent. + +She nodded her head, adding in a lower tone: + +"He's asleep now. He sleeps more than he did. He's killed hisself +digging for the gold, and he never got none, and he says 'he'll +dig till he dies.'" + +"Dig till he dies." Fit motto of many a disappointed gold-seeker, the +finale of many a broken up, desolated home, the last dying words of +many a husband, far away from wife or kindred, with no loved ones near +to soothe his departing moments--no better burial--place than the very +hole, perchance, in which his last earthly labours were spent. These +were some of the thoughts that rapidly chased one another in my mind as +the sad words and still sadder tone fell upon my ear. + +I was roused by hearing Frank's voice in inquiry as to how she made her +candles, and she answered all our questions with a child-like NAIVETE, +peculiarly her own. She told us how she boiled down the fat--how once it +had caught fire and burnt her severely, and there was the scar still +showing on her brown little arm--then how she poured the hot fat into, +the tin mould, first fastening in the wicks, then shut up the mould and +left it to grow cold as quickly as it would; all this, and many other +particulars which I have long since forgotten, she told us; and +little by little we learnt too her own history. + +Father, mother, grandfather, and herself had all come to the diggings +the summer before. Her father met with a severe accident in digging, +and returned to Melbourne. He returned only to die, and his wife soon +followed him to the grave. Having no other friend or relative in the +colonies, the child had been left with her aged grandfather, who +appeared as infatuated with the gold-fields as a more hale and younger +man. His strength and health were rapidly failing, yet he still dug on. +"We shall be rich, and Jessie a fine lady before I die," was ever his +promise to her, and that at times when they were almost wanting food. + +It was with no idle curiosity that we listened to her; none could help +feeling deeply interested in the energetic, unselfish, orphan girl. She +was not beautiful, nor was she fair--she had none of those childish +graces which usually attract so much attention to children of her age; +her eyes were heavy and bloodshot (with work, weeping, cold, and +hunger) except when she spoke of her sick grandfather, and then they +disclosed a world of tenderness; her hair hung matted round her +head; her cheek was wan and sallow; her dress was ill-made and +threadbare; yet even thus, few that had once looked at her but would +wish to look again. There was an indescribable sweetness about the +mouth; the voice was low and musical; the well-shaped head was firmly +set upon her shoulders; a fine open forehead surmounted those drooping +eyes; there was almost a dash of independence; a "little woman" manner +about her that made one imperceptibly forget how young she was in +years. + +A slight noise in the tent--a gentle moan. + +"He's waked; I must go to him, and," in a lower, almost a deprecating +tone, "he doesn't like to hear stranger folks about." + +We cheerfully complied with the hint and departed, Frank first putting +some money into her hand, and promising to call again for the candles +and veils she seemed quite anxious we should take in return. + +Our thoughts were as busy as our tongues were silent, during the time +that elapsed before we reached home. When we entered, we found a +discussion going on, and words were running high. My brother and +Octavius were for going somewhere to work, not idle about as +they were doing now; William wanted to go for a "pleasure trip" to +Forest Creek, and then return to Melbourne for a change. Frank listened +to it all for some minutes, and then made a speech, the longest I ever +heard from him, of which I will repeat portions, as it will explain our +future movements. + +"This morning, when going down the gully, I met the person whom we +bought the dray-horses of in Melbourne. I asked him how he was doing, +and he answered, 'badly enough; but a friend's just received accounts +of some new diggings out Albury way, and there I mean to go.' He showed +me also a letter he had received from a party in Melbourne, who were +going there. From these accounts, gold is very plentiful at this spot, +and I for one think we may as well try our fortune in this new place, +as anywhere else. The route is partly along the Sydney road, which is +good, but it is altogether a journey of two hundred miles. I would +therefore propose (turning to my brother), that we proceed first to +Melbourne, where you can leave your sister, and we can then start for +the Ovens; and as provisions are at an exorbitant price there, +we might risk a little money in taking up a dray-full of goods as +before. And as we may never chance to be in this part of Victoria +again, I vote that we take William's 'pleasure trip' to Forest Creek, +stop there a few days, and then to Melbourne." + +This plan was adopted. + +FRIDAY MORNING.--Frank stole out early after breakfast, for a visit to +little Jessie. I learnt the full particulars afterwards, and therefore +will relate them as they occurred, as though myself present. He did not +find her sitting outside the tent as before, and hesitated whether to +remain or go away, when a low moaning inside determined him to enter. +He pushed aside the blanket, and saw her lying upon an old mattress on +the ground; beside her was a dark object, which he could not at first +distinguish plainly. It was her grandfather, and he was dead. The +moaning came from the living orphan, and piteous it was to hear her. It +took Frank but a few minutes to ascertain all this, and then he gently +let down the blanket, and hastened to the butcher's shop I have already +mentioned. He learnt all that there was to know: that she had no +friends, no relatives, and that nothing but her own labour, and +the kindness of others, had kept them from starvation through the +winter. Frank left a small sum in the butcher's hands, to have the old +man buried, as best could be, in so wild and unnatural a place, and +then returned to the mourning child. When he looked in, she was lying +silent and senseless beside the corpse. A gentle breathing--a slight +heaving of the chest, was all that distinguished the living from the +dead. Carefully taking her in his arms, he carried her to our tent. As +I saw him thus approaching, an idea of the truth flashed across me. +Frank brought her inside, and laid her upon the ground--the only +resting-place we had for her. She soon opened her eyes, the quick +transition through the air had assisted in reviving her, and then I +could tell that the whole sad truth returned fresh to her recollection. +She sat up, resting her head upon her open hands, whilst her eyes were +fixed sullenly, almost doggedly, upon the ground. Our attempts at +consolation seemed useless. Frank and I glanced at one another. "Tell +us how it happened," said he gently. + +Jessie made no answer. She seemed like one who heard not. + +"It must have been through some great carelessness--some neglect," +pursued Frank, laying a strong emphasis on the last word. + +This effectually roused her. + +"I NEVER left him--I NEVER neglected him. When I waked in the morning I +thought him asleep. I made my fire. I crept softly about to make his +gruel for breakfast, and I took it him, and found him dead--dead," and +she burst into a passion of tears. + +Frank's pretended insinuation had done her good; and now that her grief +found its natural vent, her mind became calmer, and exhausted with +sorrow, she fell into a soothing slumber. + +We had prepared to start before noon, but this incident delayed us a +little. When Jessie awoke, she seemed to feel intuitively that Frank +was her best friend, for she kept beside him during our hasty dinner, +and retained his hand during the walk. There was a pleasant breeze, and +we did not feel over fatigued when, after having walked about eight +miles, we sat down beneath a most magnificent gum tree, more +than a hundred feet high. Frank very wisely made Jessie bestir herself, +and assist in our preparations. She collected dry sticks for a fire, +went with him to a small creek near for a supply of water; and so well +did he succeed, that for a while she nearly forgot her troubles, and +could almost smile at some of William's gay sallies. + +Next morning, very early, breakfast rapidly disappeared, and we were +marching onwards. An empty cart, drawn by a stout horse, passed us. + +Frank glanced at the pale little child beside him. "Where to?" cried +he. + +"Forest Creek." + +"Take us for what?" + +"A canary a-piece." + +"Agreed." And we gladly sprung in. For the sake of the uninitiated, I +must explain that, in digger's slang, a "canary" and half-a-sovereign +are synonymous. + +We passed the "Porcupine Inn." We halted at noon, dined, and about two +hours after sighted the Commissioners' tent. In a few minutes the cart +stopped. + +"Can't take yer not no further. If the master seed yer, I'd cotch it +for taking yer at all." + +We paid him and alighted. + + + + +Chapter XI. + +FOREST CREEK + + +In my last chapter we were left standing not far from the +Commissioners' tent, Forest Creek, at about three o'clock in the +afternoon of Saturday, the 16th. An air of quiet prevailed, and made +the scene unlike any other we had as yet viewed at the diggings. It was +the middle of the month; here and there a stray applicant for a licence +might make his appearance, but the body of the diggers had done so long +before, and were disseminated over the creek digging, washing, or +cradling, as the case might be, but here at least was quiet. To the +right of the Licensing Commissioners' tent was a large one +appropriated to receiving the gold to be forwarded to Melbourne by the +Government escort. There were a number of police and pensioners about. + +Not many months ago, the scarcity of these at the diggings had +prevented the better class of diggers from carrying on their operations +with any degree of comfort, or feeling that their lives and property +were secure. But this was now altered; large bodies of police were +placed on duty, and wooden buildings erected in various parts of the +diggings for their accommodation. Assistant Commissioners (who were +also magistrates) had been appointed, and large bodies of pensioners +enrolled as police, and acting under their orders. Roads were also +being made in all directions, thereby greatly facilitating +intercommunication. + +But I must not forget that we are standing looking about us without +exactly knowing where to turn. Suddenly William started off like a shot +in pursuit of a man a little way from us. We could not at first guess +who it was, for in the diggers' dress all men look like so many +brothers; but as we approached nearer we recognised our late captain, +Gregory. + +"Well, old fellow, and where did you spring from?" was Frank's +salutation. "I thought you were stuck fast in the Eagle Hawk." + +"I may say the same," said Gregory, smiling. "How got you here?" + +This was soon told, and our present dilemma was not left unmentioned. + +"A friend in need is a friend indeed," says the proverb, and William +echoed it, as Gregory very complaisantly informed us that, having just +entered upon a store not far distant, he would be delighted to give us +a shelter for a few nights. This we gladly accepted, and were soon +comfortably domiciled beneath a bark and canvas tent adjoining his +store. Here we supped, after which Gregory left us, and returned with +mattresses, blankets, &c., which he placed on the ground, whilst he +coolly ordered the gentlemen to prepare to take their departure, he +himself presently setting them the example. + +"I'm certain sure the young leddy's tired," said he; "and that little +lassie there (pointing to Jessie) looks as pale and as wizened as an +old woman of seventy--the sooner they gets to sleep the better." + +We followed the kindly hint, and Jessie and myself were soon fast +asleep in spite of the din close beside us. It was Saturday night, and +the store was full; but the Babel-like sounds disturbed us not, and we +neither of us woke till morning. + +It was Sunday. The day was fine, and we strolled here and there, +wandering a good way from Gregory's store. As we returned, we passed +near the scene of the monster meeting of 1851. The following account of +it is so correct, that I cannot do better than transcribe it. + +"The exceeding richness of the Mount Alexander diggings, and +extraordinary success of many of the miners, led the Government to +issue a proclamation, raising the licence from thirty shillings to +three pounds. As soon as these intentions became known, a public +meeting of all the miners was convened, and took place on the 15th of +December, 1851. This resolve of the Governor and Executive Council was +injudicious, since, in New South Wales, the Government proposed to +reduce the fee to 15s.; and among the miners in Victoria, +dissatisfaction was rife, on account of the apparent disregard by the +Government of the wants and wishes of the people engaged in the +gold diggings, and because of the absence of all police protection, +while there appeared to be no effort made to remedy this defect. +Indignation was, therefore, unequivocally expressed at the several +diggings' meetings which were held, and at which it was resolved to +hold a monster meeting. The 'Old Shepherd's Hut,' an out station of Dr. +Barker's, and very near the Commissioners' tent, was the scene chosen +for this display. For miles around work ceased, cradles were hushed, +and, the diggers, anxious to show their determination, assembled in +crowds, swarming from every creek, gully, hill, and dale, even from the +distant Bendigo, twenty miles away. They felt that if they tamely +allowed the Government to charge 3 pounds one month, the licensing fee +might be increased to 6 pounds the next; and by such a system of +oppression, the diggers' vocation would be suspended. + +"It has been computed that from fifteen to twenty thousand persons were +on the ground during the time of the meeting. Hundreds, who came and +heard, gave place to the coming multitude, satisfied with having +attended to countenance the proceedings. The meeting ultimately +dispersed quietly, thereby disappointing the anticipations of those who +expected, perhaps even desired, a turbulent termination. The majority +determined to resist any attempt to enforce this measure, and to pay +NOTHING; but, happily, they were not reduced to this extremity, since +his Excellency wisely gave notice that no change would be made in the +amount demanded for licence." + +The trees up which the diggers had climbed during the meeting are still +pointed out. + +The "Old Shepherd's Hut" was standing. It seemed a most commodious +little building compared to the insecure shelter of' a digger's tent. +The sides of the hut were formed of slabs, which were made mostly from +the stringy bark,--a tree that splits easily--the roof was composed of +the bark from the same tree; the chimney was of stones mortared +together with mud. This is the general style of building for shepherds' +huts in the bush. As we passed it I could not but mentally contrast the +scene that took place there on the important day of the monster +meeting, to the deep tranquillity that must have reigned around +the spot for centuries before the discovery of gold drew multitudes to +the place. + +The trees in this neighbourhood are mostly stringy bark; almost all are +peeled of their covering, as many diggers, particularly those who have +their families with them, keep much to one part, and think it, +therefore, no waste of time or labour to erect a hut, instead of living +in a comfortless tent. + +On Monday morning we determined to pursue our travels, and meant that +day to pay a flying, visit to Fryer's Creek. It was a lovely morning, +and we set out in high spirits. A heavy rain during the night had well +laid the dust. On our way we took a peep at several flats and gullies, +many of which looked very picturesque, particularly one called Specimen +Gully, which was but thinly inhabited. + +We had hardly reached Fryer's Creek itself when we saw a vast concourse +of people gathered together. Frank and my brother remained with me at a +little distance, whilst Octavius and William went to learn the occasion +of this commotion. It arose from an awful accident which had just +occurred. + +Three brothers were working in a claim beside the stream, some way +apart from the other diggers. The heavy rain during the night had +raised the water, and the ground between the hole where they were +working and the Creek, had given way imperceptibly UNDERNEATH. One +brother, who was early in the hole at work, fancied that the water at +the bottom was gradually rising above his knees; he shouted to his +comrades, but unfortunately they had gone, one, one way, one, another, +in quest of something, and it was some minutes ere they returned. + +Meanwhile the water in the hole was slowly but surely rising, and the +slippery sides which were several feet high defied him to extricate +himself. His cries for help became louder--he was heard, and his +brothers and some neighbours hastened to his assistance. Ropes were +procured after some further delay, and thrown to the unhappy man--but +it was too late. None dared approach very near, for the ground was like +a bog, and might at any moment give way beneath their feet; the water +was nearly level with the top of the hole, and all hope of saving him +was gone. The brothers had often been warned of the danger they +were running. + +Shuddering at the thoughts of this awful death we turned away, but no +change of scene could dissipate it from our minds--the remembrance of +it haunted me for many a night. + +Jessie seemed pleased to see us on our return--we had left her behind +with Gregory to his great delight--we abstained from mentioning before +her the fearful accident we had but witnessed. + +That evening we wandered about Forest Creek. We had not gone far before +a digger with a pistol in his hand shot by us; he was followed by an +immense mob, hooting, yelling, and screaming, as only a mob at the +diggings can. It was in full pursuit, and we turned aside only in time +to prevent ourselves from being knocked down in the confusion. + +"Stop him--stop him," was the cry. He was captured, and the cry changed +to, "String him up--string him up--it's useless taking him to the +police-office." + +"What has he done?" asked my brother of a quiet by-stander. + +"Shot a man in a quarrel at a grogshop." + +"String him up--string him up--confront him with the body," vociferated +the mob. + +At this moment the firmly-secured and well-guarded culprit passed by, to +be confronted with the dead body of his adversary. No sooner did he +come into his presence than the CI-DEVANT corpse found his feet, +"showed fight," and roared out, "Come on," with a most unghostlike +vehemence. The fury of the mob cooled down; the people thought the man +had been murdered, whereas the shot, fortunately for both, had glanced +over the forehead without doing any serious injury. Taking advantage of +this lull, the fugitive declared that the wounded man had been robbing +him. This turned the tables, and, inspired by the hootings of the now +indignant mob, the "dead man" took to his heels and disappeared. + +The diggers in Pennyweight Flat, Nicholson's Gully, Lever Flat, Dirty +Dick's Gully, Gibson's Flat, at the mouth of Dingley Dell, and in +Dingley Dell itself, were tolerably contented with their gains, +although in many instances, the parties who were digging in the +centre of the gullies, or what is called "the slip," experienced +considerable trouble in bailing the water out of their holes. + +Some of the names given to the spots about Forest Creek are anything +but euphonious. Dingley Dell is, however, an exception, and sounds +quite musical compared to Dirty Dick's Gully. The former name was given +to the place by a gentleman from Adelaide, and was suggested by the +perpetual tinkling of the bullock's bells, it being a favourite camping +place for bullock drivers, offering, as it did, an excellent supply of +both wood, water, and food for their cattle. From whom the latter +inelegant name originated I cannot precisely tell--but there are plenty +of "dirty Dicks" all over the diggings. + +The current prices of this date at Forest Creek were as follows: +flour, 9 to 10 pounds per hundred-weight; sugar, 1s. 6d. a pound, +very scarce; tea, 3s.; rice, 1s.; coffee, 3s.; tobacco, 8s.; cheese, +3s.; butter, 4s.; honey, 3s. 6d.; candles, 1s. 6d; currants, 1s. 6d., +very scarce; raisins, 1s. 6d.; figs, 2s. 6d.; salt, 1s. 6d. Picks, spades, +and tin dishes, 10s. each. Gold 64s. per ounce. + +TUESDAY, 19.--Before breakfast we were busily employed in packing the +"swags" when Octavius suddenly dropped the strap he held in his hand +for that purpose, and darted into the store. Thinking that we had +omitted something which he went to fetch, we continued our work. When +everything was ready and the last strap in its place, we again thought +of our absent comrade, making all sorts of surmises regarding his +disappearance, when, just as Frank was going after him, in he walked, +accompanied by a stranger whom he introduced as his uncle. This +surprised us, as we were ignorant of his having any relatives in the +colonies. He then explained that a younger brother of his father's had +about eight years ago gone to South Australia, and that never having +heard of him for some years they had mourned him as dead. After many +adventures he had taken a fancy to the diggings, and had just come from +Melbourne with a dray full of goods. He went to Gregory's store to +dispose of them. Octavius had heard them in conversation +together, and had mistaken his uncle's for his father's voice. Hence +the precipitation of his exit. The uncle was a tall sunburnt man, who +looked well-inured to hardship and fatigue. He stayed and took +breakfast with us, and then having satisfactorily arranged his business +with Gregory, and emptied his dray, he obligingly offered to convey +Jessie and myself to Melbourne in it. Accordingly after dinner we all +started together. + +Our new companion was a most agreeable person, and his knowledge of the +colonies was extensive. With anecdotes of the bush, the mines, and the +town, he made the journey pass most pleasantly. Before evening we +reached the Golden Point near Mount Alexander. This term of "Golden" +has been applied to a great many spots where the deposits have been +richer than, usual. There was a Golden Point at Ballarat, and when the +report of the Alexander diggings drew the people from there, they +carried the name with them, and applied it to this portion of the +mount. To the left of the Point, which was still full of labourers, was +the store of Mr. Black, with the Union-Jack flying above it. It is a +most noted store, and at one time when certain delicacies were +not to be had in Melbourne they were comparatively cheap here. + +We passed by this busy spot and encamped at sunset at the foot of Mount +Alexander. It was a lovely evening and our eyes were feasted by a Most +glorious sight. All the trees of the forest gradually faded away in the +darkness, but beyond them, and through them were glimpses of the +granite-like walls of the mount, brilliantly shining in and reflecting +the last glowing rays of the setting sun. Some of the gorgeous scenes +of fairy-land seemed before us--we could have imagined that we were +approaching by night some illuminated, some enchanted castle. + +That evening we sat late round our fire listening to the history which +the uncle of Octavius related of some of his adventures in South +Australia. The posts he had filled formed a curious medley of +occupations, and I almost forget the routine in which they followed one +another, but I will endeavour to relate his story as much as possible +in his own words. + +"When I started from England, after having paid passage-money, &c., I +found myself with about 200 pounds ready money in my purse--it was all +I had to expect, and I determined to be very careful of it; but by a +young man of five-and-twenty these resolutions, like lady's promises, +are made to be broken. When I landed in Adelaide with my money in my +pocket--minus a few pounds I had lost at whist and cribbage on board +ship--I made my way to the best inn, where I stayed some days, and ran +up rather a longish bill. Then I wanted to see the country, which I +found impossible without a horse, so bought one, and rode about to the +various stations, where I was generally hospitably received, and thus +passed a few months very pleasantly, only my purse was running low. I +sold the horse, then my watch, and spent the money. When that was gone, +I thought of the letters of introduction I possessed. The first that +came to hand was directed to a Wesleyan minister. I called there, +looking as sanctimonious as I could. He heard my story, advised me to +go to chapel regularly, 'And for your temporal wants,' said he, 'the +Lord will provide.' I thanked him, and bowed myself off. + +"My first act was to burn my packet of introductory letters, my +next was to engage myself to a stock-holder at 15s. a week and my +rations. He was going up to his station at once, and I accompanied him. +We travelled for about two hundred miles through a most beautiful +country before we reached his home. His house was, in my ideas, a +comical-looking affair--made of split logs of wood, with a bark roof, +and a barrel stuck on the top of the roof at one end by way of a +chimney-pot. His wife, a pale sickly little woman, seemed pleased to +see us, for she had been much alarmed by the natives, who were rather +numerous about the neighbourhood. There was only a young lad, and an +old shepherd and his wife upon the station, besides herself. Before I +had been there six weeks she died, and her new-born little baby died +too; there was not a doctor for miles, and the shepherd's wife was +worse than useless. I believe this often happens in the bush--it's not a +place for woman-folks. + +"I was here eighteen months--it was a wild sort of life, and just suited +my fancy; but when I found I had some money to receive, I thought a +spree in town would be a nice change, so off I marched. My spree lasted +as long as my money, and then I went as barman to a public-house at +Clare, some way up the country--here I got better wages and better board, +and stopped about half-a-year. Then I turned brewer's drayman, and +delivered casks of good Australian ale about Adelaide for 30s. a week. +The brewer failed, and I joined in a speculation with an apple dealer +to cart a lot up to the Kapunda copper mines. That paid well. I stopped +up there as overseer over four-and-twenty bullock-drays. Well, winter +came, and I had little to do, though I drew my 30s. a week regularly +enough, when the directors wanted a contract for putting the small +copper-dust into bags, and sewing them up. I offered to do the job at +2d. a bag, and could get through a hundred and fifty a day. How much +is that? Oh! 12s. 6d. a-piece. I forgot to tell you I'd a mate at the +work. That was good earnings in those days; and me and my mate, who +was quite a lad, were making a pretty penny, when some others offered +to do them a halfpenny a bag cheaper. I did the same, and we kept it +to ourselves for about four weeks longer, when a penny a bag was +offered. There was competition for you! This roused my bile--I threw +it up altogether--and off to Adelaide again. Soon spent all my cash, +and went into a ship-chandler's office till they failed; then was clerk +to a butcher, and lost my situation for throwing a quarter of his own +mutton at him in a rage; and then I again turned brewer's man. Whilst +there I heard of the diggings--left the brewer and his casks to look +after themselves, and off on foot to Ballarat. + +"Here I found the holes averaging some thirty feet--which was a style of +hard work I didn't quite admire; so hearing of the greater facility of +the Alexander diggings, I went through Bully Rook Forest, and tried my +luck in the Jim Crow Ranges. This paid well; and I bought a dray, and +bring up goods to the stores, which I find easier work, and twice as +profitable as digging. There's my story; and little I thought when I +went into Gregory's store to-day, that I should find my curly-pated +nephew ready to hear it." + +Next day we travelled on, and halted near Saw-pit Gully; it was early +in the afternoon, and we took a walk about this most interesting +locality. The earth was torn up everywhere--a few lucky hits +had sufficed to re-collect a good many diggers there, and they were +working vigorously. At dusk the labour ceased--the men returned to +their tents, and for the last time our ears were assailed by the +diggers' usual serenade. Imagine some hundreds of revolvers almost +instantaneously fired--the sound reverberating through the mighty +forests, and echoed far and near--again and again till the last faint +echo died away in the distance. Then a hundred blazing fires burst upon +the sight--around them gathered the rough miners themselves--their +sun-burnt, hair-covered faces illumined by the ruddy glare. Wild songs, +and still wilder bursts of laughter are heard; gradually the flames +sink and disappear, and an oppressive stillness follows (sleep rarely +refuses to visit the diggers' lowly couch), broken only by some +midnight carouser, as he vainly endeavours to find his tent. No fear of +a "peeler" taking him off to a police-station, or of being brought +before a magistrate next morning, and "fined five shillings for being +drunk." + +Early on Tuesday morning I gave a parting look to the diggings--our dray +went slowly onwards--a slight turn in the road, and the last +tent has vanished from my sight. "Never," thought I, "shall I look on +such a scene again!" + + + + +Chapter XII. + +RETURN TO MELBOURNE + + +Before the evening of Wednesday the 20th, we passed through Kyneton, +and found ourselves in the little village of Carlshrue, where we passed +the night. Here is a police-station, a blacksmith's, a few stores and +some cottages, in one of which we obtained a comfortable supper and +beds. A lovely view greeted us at sunrise. Behind us were still +towering the lofty ranges of Mount Alexander, before us was Mount +Macedon and the Black Forest. This mountain, which forms one of what is +called the Macedon range, is to be seen many miles distant, and on a +clear, sunny day, the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which +stands aloof as it were, from the range itself, are distinctly visible +from the flag-staff at Melbourne. + +We had intended to have stopped for the night in Kyneton, but the +charges there were so enormous that we preferred pushing on and taking +our chance as to the accommodation Carlshrue could afford, nor did we +repent the so doing. + +The following are the Kyneton prices. A meal or bed--both bad--4s; a +night's stabling, one pound ten shillings per horse; hay at the rate of +9d. a pound; this is the most exorbitant charge of all. + +Hay was somewhere about 20 pounds a ton in Melbourne. The carriage of it +to Kyneton, now that the fine weather was setting in, would not exceed 8 +pounds a ton at the outside, which would come to 28 pounds. The purchaser, +by selling it at Kyneton at the rate of 9d. a pound, or 75 pounds per ton, +cleared a profit of 47 pounds--NOT QUITE 200 PER CENT. If THIS is not +fortune-making, I should like to know what is. It beats the diggings +hollow. + +Next morning we looked our last at "sweet Carlshrue," and +having crossed the Five Mile Creek, camped for our mid-day meal beside +the Black Forest. Here a slight discussion arose, as to whether it +would be more advisable to proceed on our journey and camp in the Black +Forest that night, or whether we should remain where we were outside, +and recommence our journey in good time the next morning so as to get +through this most uncomfortable portion of our travels in one day. +Frank and Octavius were for the latter plan, as the best and safest, +but the rest (thinking that, having once travelled through it without +encountering any thing resembling a bushranger, they might safely do so +again) protested against wasting time, and were for entering those dark +shades without further delay. The uncle of Octavius whom, in future, +for the sake of convenience, I shall call Mr. L----, was also of this +mind, and as he was in some sort our leader during the journey, his +advice decided the matter. Danger to him was only a necessary +excitement. He was naturally fearless, and his merry laugh and gay joke +at the expense of the bushranger fearing party gradually dissipated the +unaccountable presentiment of danger which I for one had in no +small degree experienced. + +On we went, up hill and down dale, sometimes coming to a more open +piece of ground, but more generally threading our way amid a very maze +of trees, with trunks all black as the ground itself, whilst the dingy +foliage and the few rays of sunshine that lit up those dark, deep +glades served only to heighten the gloominess around. + +After walking for about six miles--I preferred that mode of getting +along to the joltings of the dray--we all felt disposed to rest +ourselves. We selected a spot where the trees were less thickly +clustered, and taking the horses out of the dray, tethered them by +strong ropes to some trees near. The dray itself was turned up, and a +blanket thrown over the up-raised shafts formed a most complete and +cosy little tent. + +A fire was next kindled, and a kettle full of water (with the tea in +it!) was placed on to boil, some home-made bread, brought from +Carlshrue, was placed upon the ground, and some chops were toasted on +the ends of sticks, which are usually the impromptu toasting-forks of +the bush. The old tin plates and pannicans, not quite so bright as once +upon a time, but showing, despite sundry bruises and scratches, that +they had seen better days, were placed upon the tea-table, which of +course was the ground. Two or three knives and forks were on general +service, and wandered about from hand to hand as occasion required. +Altogether it was a merry, sociable party, and I think I enjoyed that +supper better than any I ever tasted before or since. + +"CHACUN A SON GOUT," many a one will say. + +The pleasantest moments must come to an end, and so did these. After +having sat up later than usual, Jessie and I retired to our gipsy tent, +leaving our guardian diggers smoking round the fire. They meant to keep +watches during the night to prevent a surprise. + +FRIDAY.--We were comfortably seated at our breakfast, discussing a +hundred subjects besides the food before us, when a shrill "coo-ey" +burst through the air; "coo-ey"--"coo-ey" again and again, till the very +trees seemed to echo back the sound. We started to our feet, and, +as if wondering what would come next, looked blankly at each +other, and again the "coo-ey," more energetic still, rang in our ears. +This is the call of the bush, it requires some little skill and +practice, and when given well can be heard a great way off. In such a +place as the Black Forest it could only proceed from some one who had +lost their way, or be a signal of distress from some party in absolute +danger. We again looked from one to the other--it bewildered us; and +again the cry, only more plaintive than before, came to us. +Simultaneously they seized their pistols, and started in the direction +whence the sounds proceeded. They were all too true Englishmen to hear +a fellow-creature in peril and not hasten to their succour. + +Jessie and myself could not remain behind alone--it was impossible; we +followed at a little distance, just keeping our comrades in sight. At +last they came to a halt, not knowing where to turn, and we joined +them. Frank gave a "coo-ey," and in about the space of a minute the +words "help, help,--come, come," in scarcely, audible sounds, answered +to the call. We penetrated about thirty yards farther, and a few low +groans directed us to a spot more obscure, if possible, than +the rest. There, firmly bound to two trees close together, were two +men. A thick cord was passed round and round their bodies, arms, and +legs, so as to leave no limb at liberty. They seemed faint and +exhausted at having called so long for help. + +It was the work of a moment for our party to fling down their pistols, +take out knives and tomahawks, and commence the work of releasing them +from their bonds. But the cords were knotted and thick, and there +seemed no little labour in accomplishing it. They were also retarded by +the small quantity of light, for, as I said before, it was a dark and +secluded spot. At length one man was released, and so faint and +exhausted was he, from the effects of whatever ill-usage he had +suffered, that, being a tall, powerfully made man, it required the +united strength of both Frank and Mr. L---- to prevent his falling to +the ground. + +Jessie and myself were standing a little apart in the shade; we seemed +as if spell-bound by the incident, and incapable of rendering any +assistance. + +The second was soon set at liberty, and no sooner did he feel +his hands and feet free from the cords than he gave a loud, shrill +"coo-ey." + +A shriek burst from Jessie's lips as, immediately the cry was uttered, +and before any one could, recover from the bewilderment it occasioned, +four well-armed men sprang upon our startled party. + +Taken thus at disadvantage, unarmed, their very knives flung down in +their eagerness to untwist the cords, they were soon overpowered. The +wretch who had been reclining in Frank's arms quickly found his feet, +and, ere Frank could recover from his surprise, one heavy blow flung +him to the ground; whilst the other twined his powerful arms round Mr. +L----, and, after a short but sharp struggle, in which he was assisted +by a fellow-villain, succeeded in mastering him. + +It was a fearful sight, and I can hardly describe my feelings as I +witnessed it. My brain seemed on fire, the trees appeared to reel +around me, when a cold touch acted as a sudden restorative, and almost +forced a scream from my lips. It was Jessie's hand, cold as marble, +touching mine. We spoke together in a low whisper, and both +seemed inspired by the same thoughts, the same hope. + +"I saw a little hill as we came here," said Jessie; "let's try and find +it and look out for help." + +I instinctively followed her, and stealthily creeping along, we gained +a small rise of ground which commanded a more extended view than most +places in the Black Forest, and, but for the thickness of the trees, we +could have seen our own camping-place and the part where the ambuscade +had been laid. From sounds of the voices, we could tell that the +ruffians were leading their prisoners to the spot where we had passed +the night, and the most fearful oaths and imprecations could ever and +anon be heard. Well might our hearts beat with apprehension, for it was +known that when disappointed in obtaining the gold they expected, they +vented their rage in torturing their unfortunate victims. + +Meanwhile Jessie seemed listening intently. The time she had spent in +the bush and at the diggings had wonderfully refined her sense of +hearing. Suddenly she gave a shrill "coo-ey." The moment after a shot +was fired in the direction of our late camp. Jessie turned even +paler, but recovering herself, "coo-ey" after "coo-ey" made the echoes +ring. I joined my feeble, efforts to hers; but she was evidently well +used to this peculiar call. On a fine still day, this cry will reach +for full three miles, and we counted upon this fact for obtaining some +assistance. + +"Help is coming," said Jessie, in a low voice, and once more with +increasing strength she gave the call. + +Footsteps approached nearer and nearer. I looked up, almost expecting +to see those villainous countenances again. + +"Women in danger!" shouted a manly voice, and several stalwart figures +bounded to our side. + +"Follow, follow!" cried Jessie, rushing forwards. I scarcely remember +everything that occurred, for I was dizzy with excess of pleasure. +There was a short scuffle, shots were fired at retreating bushrangers, +and we saw our friends safe and free. + +The whole, matter was then related to our preservers--for such they +were--and I then learnt that when the bushrangers had marched +off our party to the camping-place, they proceeded to overhaul their +pockets, and then bound them securely to some trees, whilst one stood +ready with a pistol to shoot the first that should call for help, and +the others looked over the plunder. This was little enough, for our +travelling money, which was notes, was kept--strange treasury--in the +lining of the body of my dress, and here too were the gold receipts +from the Escort Office. Every night I took out about sufficient to +defray the day's expenses, and this was generally given into Frank's +hands. + +Enraged and disappointed, the villains used most frightful language, +accompanied by threats of violence; and the one on guard, irritated +beyond his powers of endurance, fired the pistol in the direction of +William's head. At this moment Jessie's first "coo-ey" was heard: this +startled him, and the shot, from the aim of the pistol being +disarranged, left him unhurt. + +"It's that d----d child," muttered one, with a few, additional oaths; +"we'll wring her neck when we've secured the plunder." + +One of the ruffians now attempted more persuasive measures, and +addressing Mr. L----, whom I suppose he considered the leader, expended +his powers of persuasion much in the following manner. + +"You sees, mate, we risks our lives to get your gold, and have it we +will. Some you've got somewhere or another, for you havn't none on you +got no paper from the Escort--you planted it last night, eh? Jist show +us where, and you shan't be touched at all, nor that little wretch +yonder, what keeps screeching so; but if you don't--" and here his +natural ferocity mastered him, and he wound up with a volley of curses, +in the midst of which our rescuers rushed upon them. + +When we came to talk the whole matter over calmly and quietly, no doubt +was left upon our minds, as to the premeditation of the whole affair. +But for the watch kept, the attack would most probably have been made +during the night. + +Our timely friends were a party of successful diggers returning, from +work. They too had passed the night in the Black Forest--providently +not very far from us. They accepted our thanks in an off-hand sort of +way, only replying--which was certainly true--"that we would have +done the same for them." It was in endeavouring to assist assumed +sufferers that our party fell into the ambuscade laid for them. + +They waited whilst we got the dray and horses ready, and we all +journeyed on together, till the Black Forest was far behind us. We saw +no more of the bushrangers, and encamped that night a few miles beyond +the "Bush Inn." At this inn we parted with our gallant friends. They +were of the jovial sort, and having plenty of gold, were determined on +a spree. We never met them again. + +On Saturday we travelled as far as the "Deep Creek Inn." Some distance +before reaching that place, we passed two rival coffee-shops on the +road. We stopped at the first, to know if they had any uncooked or cold +meat to sell, for our provisions were running low. + +"Havn't none," said the woman, shaking her head. Then looking hard at +William, and judging from his good-humoured face, that he was a likely +one to do what she wanted, she said to him. "Now, Sir, I'm agoing to ax +a favour of you, and that is to go a little farther down the +road, to the other coffee-tent, and buy for me as much meat as they'll +let you have. They's got plenty, and I've none; and they knows I'll +lose custom by it, so you'll not get it if they twigs (ANGLICE guesses) +you comes from me. You understand, Sir," and she put sovereign into his +hand to pay for it. + +Laughing at the comicality of the request, and the thoroughly colonial +coolness of making it, William set off, and presently returned with +nearly half a sheep hanging over his shoulders, and a large joint in +one hand. + +"Bless me, what luck!" exclaimed the delighted woman, and loud and +profuse were her thanks. She wanted to cook us a good dinner off the +meat gratis; but this we steadily refused and purchasing enough for the +present, we put our drays again into motion, and a little while after +kindled a fire, and were our own cooks as usual. That night we camped +beside the Deep Creek, about a mile from the "Deep Creek Inn." The +route we were now taking was different to the one we had travelled +going up--it was much more direct. + +We remained all Sunday beside the creek, and the day passed quietly and +pleasantly. + +On Monday the 25th we were again in motion. We passed the well known +inn of Tulip Wright's. How great a change those few weeks had made! +Winter had given place to summer, for Australia knows no spring. We +walked along the beautiful road to Flemington, gave a look at the +flagstaff and cemetery, turned into Great Bourke Street, halted at the +Post-office, found several letters, and finally stopped opposite the +"Duke of York Hotel," where we dined. + +I shall leave myself most comfortably located here, whilst I devote a +chapter or two to other diggings. + + + + +Chapter XIII. + +BALLARAT + + +Ballarat is situated about forty-five miles from Geelong, and +seventy-five nearly west of Melbourne. This was the first discovered +goldfield of any extent in Victoria, and was made known on the 8th of +September, 1851. The rush from Geelong was immense. Shops, stores, +trades, all and everything was deserted; and the press very truly +declared that "Geelong was mad--stark, staring gold-mad." During the +month of September five hundred and thirty-two licences were taken out; +in the month following the number increased to two thousand two hundred +and sixty one! + +The usual road to Ballarat is by the Adelaide overland route on the +Gambier Road; but the most preferable is per Geelong. The former route +leads over the Keilor Plains, and through Bacchus Marsh, crossing the +Werribee River in two places. Mount Buninyong then appears in sight of +the well-pleased traveller, and Ballarat is soon reached. + +The route VIA Geelong is much quicker, as part of the way is generally +performed by steam at the rate of one pound a-piece. Those who wish to +save their money go to Geelong by land. After leaving Flemington, and +passing the Benevolent Asylum, the Deep Creek is crossed by means of a +punt, and you then come to a dreary waste of land, called Iett's Flat. +Beyond is a steep rise and a barren plain, hardly fit to graze sheep +upon, and at about twenty miles from Melbourne you come to the first +halting house. Some narrow but rapid creeks must be got over, and for +seven miles further you wander along over a dreary sheep-run till +stopped by the Broken River, which derives its name partly from the +nature of its rocky bed, and partly from the native name which has a +similar sound. + +This creek is the most steep, rapid, and dangerous on the road, having +no bridge and no properly defined crossing-place or ford, except the +natural rocks about. The bottom is of red sand-stone and rocks of the +same description abut from the sides of the creek, and appear to abound +in the neighbourhood; and all along the plains here and there are +large fragments of sand and lime-stone rocks. Two hundred yards from +the creek is a neat inn after the English style, with a large +sitting-room, a tap, a bar, and a coffee-room. The bed-rooms are so +arranged as to separate nobs from snobs--an arrangement rather +inconsistent in a democratic colony. The inn also affords good stabling +and high charges. Up to this distance on our road there is a scarcity +of wood and springs of water. + +We now pass two or three huts, and for twenty miles see nothing to +please the eye, for it is a dead, flat sheep-walk. About seven miles on +the Melbourne side of Geelong, the country assumes a more cheering +appearance--homesteads, gardens, and farms spring up--the roads improve, +and the timber is plentiful and large, consisting of shea-oaks, wattle, +stringy bark, and peppermints. Many of the houses are of a good +size, and chiefly built of stone, some are of wood, and very few of +brick. + +Geelong, which is divided into north and south, is bounded by the +Barwin, a river navigable from the bay to the town, and might be +extended further; beautiful valleys well wooded lie beyond. Between the +two townships a park has been reserved, though not yet enclosed; the +timber in it, which is large--consisting principally of white gum and +stringy bark--is not allowed to be cut or injured. There are several +good inns, a court-house, police-station, and corporation offices. +There is also a neat church in the early pointed style, with a +parsonage and schools in the Elizabethan; all are of dark lime-stone, +having a very gloomy appearance, the stones being unworked, except near +the windows; the porches alone slightly ornamented. The road and +pavement are good in the chief streets; there is a large square with a +conduit, which is supplied by an engine from the Barwin. The shops are +large and well furnished, a great many houses are three stories high, +most are two, and very few one. The best part of town is about one +hundred feet above the river. A large timber bridge over the +Ballarat road was washed down last winter. The town is governed by a +mayor and corporation. There is a city and mounted police force, and a +neat police-court. A large and good race-course is situated about +three miles from the town. + +As regards scenery, Geelong is far superior to Melbourne, the streets +are better, and so is the society of the place; none of the ruffian +gangs and drunken mobs as seen in Victoria's chief city. There are +various, chapels, schools, markets, banks, and a small gaol. The +harbour is sheltered, but not safe for strangers, as the shoals are +numerous. Geelong is surrounded by little townships. Irish Town, Little +Scotland, and Little London are the principal and to show how +completely the diggings drained both towns and villages of their male +inhabitants, I need only mention that six days after the discovery of +Ballarat, there was only one man left in Little Scotland, and he was a +cripple, compelled NOLENS VOLENS to remain behind. + +The road from Geelong to Ballarat is well marked out, so often has it +been trodden; and there are some good inns on the way-side for +the comfort of travellers. On horseback you can go from the town to the +diggings in six or eight hours. + +Ballarat is a barren place, the ground is interspersed with rocky +fragments, the creek is small, and good water is rather scarce. In +summer it almost amounts to a drought, and what there is then is +generally brackish or stagnatic. It is necessary never to drink +stagnant water, or that found in holes, without boiling, unless there +are frogs in it, then the water is good; but the diggers usually boil +the water, and a drop of brandy, if they can get it. In passing through +the plains you are sure of finding water near the surface (or by +seeking a few inches) wherever the tea tree grows. + +The chief object at the Ballarat diggings is the Commissioners' tent, +which includes the Post-office. There are good police quarters now. The +old lock-up was rather of the primitive order, being the stump of an +old tree, to which the the prisoners were attached by sundry chains, +the handcuff being round one wrist and through a link of the chain. I +believe there is a tent for their accommodation. There are +several doctors about, who, as usual, drive a rare trade. + +It is almost impossible to describe accurately the geological features +of the gold diggings at Ballarat. Some of the surface-washing is good, +and sometimes it is only requisite to sink a few feet, perhaps only a +few inches, before finding the ochre-coloured earth (impregnated with +mica and mixed with quartzy fragments), which, when washed, pays +exceedingly well. But more frequently a deep shaft has to be sunk. + +Of course the depth of the shafts varies considerably; some are sixty +or even eighty, and some are only ten feet deep. Sometimes after heavy +rains, when the surface soil has been washed from the sides of the +hills, the mica layer is similarly washed down to the valleys and lies +on the original surface-soil. This constitutes the true washing stuff +of the diggings. Often when a man has--to use a digger's +phrase--"bottomed his hole," (that is, cut through the rocky strata, and +arrived at the gold layer), he will find stray indications, but nothing +remunerative, and perchance the very next hole may be the most +profitable on the diggings. Whether there is any geological +rule to be guided by has yet to be proved, at present no old digger +will ever sink below the mica soil, or leave his hole until he arrives +at it, even if he sinks to forty feet. So, therefore, it may be taken +as a general rule, wherever the diggings may be, either in Victoria, +New South Wales, or South Australia, that gold in "working" quantities +lies only where there is found quartz or mica. + +Ballarat has had the honour of producing the largest masses of gold yet +discovered. These masses were all excavated from one part of the diggings, +known as Canadian Gully, and were taken out of a bed of quartz, at the +depths of from fifty to sixty-five feet below the surface. The deep +indentures of the nuggets were filled with the quartz. The largest of +these masses weighed one hundred and thirty-four pounds, of which it +was calculated that fully one hundred and twenty-six pounds consisted +of solid gold! + +About seven miles to the north of Ballarat, some new diggings called +the Eureka have been discovered, where it appears that, although there +are no immense prizes, there are few blanks, and every one doing well! + +In describing the road from Melbourne to Geelong, I have made +mention of the Broken River. A few weeks after my arrival in the +colonies this river was the scene of a sad tragedy. + +I give the tale, much in the same words as it was given to me, because +it was one out of many somewhat similar, and may serve to show the +state of morality in Melbourne. + +The names of the parties are, of course, entirely fictitious. + + * * * * * + +Prettiest among the pretty girls that stood upon the deck as the anchor +of the Government immigrant ship 'Downshire' fell into Hobson's Bay, in +August, 1851, was Mary H----, the heroine of my story. No regret +mingled with the satisfaction that beamed from her large dark eyes, as +their gaze fell on the shores of her new country, for her orphan +brother, the only relative she had left in their own dear Emerald Isle, +was even then preparing to follow her. Nor could she feel sad and +lonely whilst the rich Irish brogue, from a subdued but manly and +well-loved voice, fell softly on her ear, and the gentle +pressure of her hand continually reminded her that she was not alone. + +Shipboard is a rare place for match-making, and, somehow or another, +Henry Stephens had contrived to steal away the heart of the 'Downshire' +belle. Prudence, however, compelled our young people to postpone their +marriage, and whilst the good housewife qualities of the one readily +procured her a situation in a highly respectable family in Melbourne, +Henry obtained an appointment in the police force of the same town. + +Their united savings soon mounted up, and in a few months the banns +were published, and Christmas-Day fixed on for the wedding. Mary, at +her lover's express desire, quitted her mistress's family to reside +with a widow, a distant relative of his own, from whose house she was +to be married. Delightful to the young people was this short period of +leisure and uninterrupted intercourse, for the gold mania was now +beginning to tell upon the excited imaginations of all, and Henry had +already thrown up his situation; and it was settled their wedding trip +should be to the golden gullies round Mount Buninyong. + +And now let me hasten over this portion of my narrative. It is sad to +dwell upon the history of human frailty, or to relate the oft-told tale +of passion and villainy triumphant over virtue. A few days before +Christmas, when the marriage ceremony was to be performed, they +unfortunately spent one evening together alone, and he left her--ruined. +Repentance followed sin, and the intervening time was passed by Mary in +a state of the greatest mental anguish. With what trembling eagerness +did she now look forward to the day which should make her his lawful +wife. + +It arrived. Mary and the friends of both stood beside the altar, whilst +he, who should have been there to redeem his pledge and save his victim +from open ruin and disgrace, was far away on the road to Ballarat. + +To describe her agony would be impossible. Day after day, week after +week, and no tidings from him came; conscience too acutely accounting +to her for his faithlessness. Then the horrible truth forced itself +upon her, that its consequences would soon too plainly declare her sin +before the world; that upon her innocent offspring would fall a portion +of its mother's shame. + +Thus six months stole sorrowfully away, and as yet none had even +conjectured the deep cause she had for misery. Her brother's +non-arrival was also an unceasing source of anxiety, and almost daily +might she have been seen at the Melbourne Post-office, each time to +return more disappointed than before. At length the oft-repeated +inquiry was answered in the affirmative, and eagerly she tore open the +long-anticipated letter. It told her of an unexpected sum of money that +had come into his hands--to them a small fortune--which had detained him +in Ireland. This was read and almost immediately forgotten, as she +learnt that he was arrived in Melbourne, and that only a few streets +now separated them. + +She raised her face, flushed and radiant with joyful excitement--her +eyes fell upon him who had so cruelly injured her. The scream that +burst from her lips brought him involuntarily to her side. What will +not a woman forgive where once her heart has been touched--in the double +joy of the moment the past was almost forgotten--together they re-read +the welcome letter, and again he wooed her for his bride. She +consented, and he himself led her to her brother, confessed +their mutual fault, and second preparations for an immediate marriage +were hurriedly made. + +Once more at the altar of St. Peter's stood the bridal party, and again +at the appointed hour Stephens was far gone on his second expedition to +the diggings, after having increased (if that was possible) his +previous villainy, by borrowing a large portion of the money before +mentioned from his intended brother-in-law. It was pretty evident that +the prospect of doing this had influenced him in his apparently +honourable desire to atone to the poor girl, who, completely prostrated +by this second blow, was laid on the bed of sickness. + +For some weeks she continued thus and her own sufferings were increased +by he sight of her brother's fury, as, on her partial recovery, he +quitted her in search of her seducer. + +During his absence Mary became a mother, and the little one that +nestled in her bosom, made her half forgetful of her sorrows, and at +times ready to embrace the delusive hope that some slight happiness in +life was in store for her. But her bitter cup was not yet drained. Day +by day, hour by hour, her little one pined away, until one +dreary night she held within her arms only its tiny corpse. + +Not one sound of grief--not an outward sign to show how deeply the heart +was touched--escaped her. The busy neighbours left her for awhile, glad +though amazed at her wondrous calmness; when they returned to finish +their preparations for committing the child to its last resting-place, +the mother and her infant had disappeared. + +Carrying the lifeless burden closely pressed against her bosom, as +though the pelting rain and chilling air could harm it now, Mary +rapidly left the town where she had experienced so much misery, +on--on--towards Geelong, the route her seducer and his pursuer had +taken--on--across Iett's Flat, until at length, weak and exhausted, she +sank down on the barren plains beyond. + +Next morning the early dawn found her still plodding her weary way--her +only refreshment being a dry crust and some water obtained at an +halting-house on the road; and many a passer-by, attracted by the +wildness of her eyes, her eager manner, and disordered dress, cast +after her a curious wondering look. But she heeded them +not--on--on she pursued her course towards the Broken River. + +Here she paused. The heavy winter rains had swollen the waters, which +swept along, dashing over the irregular pieces of rock that formed the +only means of crossing over. But danger was as nothing to her now--the +first few steps were taken--the rapid stream was rushing wildly round +her--a sensation, of giddiness and exhaustion made her limbs tremble--her +footing slipped on the wet and slimy stone--in another moment the +ruthless waters carried her away. + +The morrow came, and the sun shone brightly upon the still swollen and +rapid river. Two men stood beside it, both too annoyed at this +impediment to their return to Melbourne to be in the slightest degree +aware of their proximity to one another. A bonnet caught by a +projecting fragment of rock simultaneously attracted their attention: +both moved towards the spot, and thus brought into closer contact they +recognized each other. Deadly foes though they were, not a word passed +between them, and silently they dragged the body of the unhappy +girl to land. In her cold and tightened grasp still lay the child. As +they stood gazing on those injured ones, within one breast remorse and +shame, in the other, hatred and revenge, were raging violently. + +Each step on the road to Ballarat had increased her brother's desire +for vengeance, and still further was this heightened on discovering +that Stephens had already left the diggings to return to town. This +disappointment maddened him; his whole energy was flung into tracing +his foe, and in this he had succeeded so closely, that unknown to +either, both had slept beneath the same roof at the inn beside the +Broken River. + +The voices of some of the loungers there, who were coming down to the +Creek to see what mischief had been done during the night, aroused him. +He glanced upon his enemy, who pale and trembling, stood gazing on the +wreck that he had made. Revenge at last was in his hands--not a moment +was to be lost--with the yell of a maniac he sprang upon the powerless +and conscious-stricken man--seized him in his arms rushed to the +river--and ere any could interpose, both had found a grave where but a +few minutes before the bodies of Mary and her infant had reposed. + + + + +Chapter XIV. + +NEW SOUTH WALES + + +About seventy years ago a small colony of convicts first made the +forests ring with the blows of the axe, and a few tents were erected +where Sydney now stands. The tents, and they who dwelt beneath them, +have long since disappeared, and instead we have one of the finest +cities that our colonial empire ever produced. + +The streets in Sydney are, as in Melbourne, built at right angles +with one another; they are macadamized, well lighted with gas, and +perambulated by a number of policemen during the night. Some of +the shops almost rival those of London, and the public buildings are +good and numerous. There is a custom-house, a treasury, police-office, +college, benevolent asylum, banks, barracks, hospitals, libraries, +churches, chapels, a synagogue, museum, club-house, theatre, and many +splendid hotels, of which the largest is, I think the "Royal Hotel," in +George Street, built at the cost of 30,000 pounds. + +Hyde Park is close at hand, with un-numbered public walks, and a +botanical garden, the favourite resort of all classes. + +In the neighbourhood of Sydney are some good oyster-beds, and many are +the picnics got up for the purpose of visiting them. The oysters cling +to the rocks, and great numbers are easily obtained. + +The distance from Sydney to Melbourne, by the overland road, is about +six hundred miles; but the steamers, which are constantly plying, +afford a more comfortable mode of transit. + +The gold diggings of New South Wales are so well known as to +require but a cursory notice. The first official notification of the +fact of gold having been discovered bears date, May 22, 1851, and is +contained in a despatch from the Governor to Earl Grey. In it he +announced the existence of a gold field to the westward of Bathurst, +about one hundred and fifty miles from Sydney. At the same time, he +added his supposition that the gold sent for inspection was Califorian. + +Mr Stutchbury, the geological surveyor, quickly undeceived his +Excellency. He wrote from Hill Creek reporting that four hundred +persons were hard at work, and that the gold existed not only in the +creek but beyond it. The following postscript was added to his letter: +"Excuse this being written in pencil, as there is no ink in this city +of Ophir." And this appropriate name has ever since been retained. + +The natural consequences of this discovery was the flocking of hundreds +of the inhabitants of Sydney to Bathurst. Sober people began to be +alarmed at this complete BOULEVERSEMENT of business and +tranquillity. For the sake of order the Governor attempted to put a +stop to the increasing desertion of the capital by proclaiming that the +gold-fields were the prerogative of the Crown, and threatening +gold-diggers with prosecution. It was all in vain. The glitterings of +the precious metal were more attractive than the threats of the +Governor were otherwise. The people laughed good-humoured at the +proclamation, and only flocked in greater numbers to the auriferous +spot. + +Government now took a wiser course, and finding it impossible to stem +the torrent, determined to turn the eagerness of the multitude to some +account. A licence-fee of 30s., or half an ounce of gold, per month was +imposed, which, with few exceptions, has always been cheerfully paid. + +The Turon diggings soon followed those of Bathurst. This river flows +into the Macquarie after a course of a hundred miles. Along the entire +length auriferous discoveries are constantly being made, and it bids +fair to last for many years to come. The gold is not found, as many +erroneously suppose, so much among the sand as by digging in the soil. +It also exists in paying quantities on the shores and in the rive flows +of the Macquarie, the Abercrombie, and Belubula rivers. Major's Creek, +too, is a favourite locality, and was first made known by a prospecting +woman. + +According to Mr. Stutchbury's report, he found gold ALMOST WHEREVER HE +TRIED FOR IT, and whilst traversing the Macquarie from Walgumballa to +the Turon, he found it at EVERY place he tried. Surely Midas must, once +upon a time, have taken a pleasure-trip to Australia! + +The delirium of the Sydney gold-fever reached its height when it became +publicly known that a piece of one hundred and six pounds weight had +been disembowelled from the earth, at one time. This immense quantity +was the discovery of a native, who, being excited by the universal +theme of conversation, provided himself with a tomahawk, and explored +the country adjacent to his employer's land. He was attracted +by a glittering yellow substance on the surface of a block of quartz. +With his tomahawk he broke off a piece, which he carried home to his +master, Dr. Kerr, of Wallawa. Not being able to move the mass +conveniently, Dr. Kerr broke it into small fragments. The place where +it was found is at the commencement of an undulating table-land, very +fertile, and near to a never-failing supply of water in the Murroo +Creek. It is distant about fifty miles from Bathurst, thirty from +Wellington, and twenty from the nearest point of the Macquarie river. + +Dr. Kerr presented the native and his brother with two flocks of sheep, +two saddle-horses, a quantity of rations, a team of bullocks, and some +land. + +About twenty yards from the spot where this mass was found, a piece of +gold called the "Brennan Nugget" was soon after discovered. It weighed +three hundred and thirty-six ounces, and was sold in Sydney for more +than 1,100 pounds. + +But it would be useless to enter into fuller particulars of the +diggings of New South Wales. Panoramas, newspapers, and serials have +made them familiar to all. + + + + +Chapter XV. + +SOUTH AUSTRALIA + + +Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, was the last formed of the +three sister colonies. In 1834 an act of colonization was obtained; and +land, both in town and country, sold rapidly. The colonists, however, +were most unfortunately more engaged in speculating with the land, than +grazing upon or tilling it; and the consequence was, that in a few +years the South Australians were only saved from a famine by the +unexpected arrival overland of herds and flocks from Victoria. As it +was, horses and cows of a very indifferent kind were sold for +more than a hundred pounds a-piece, and sheep for five pounds a head. + +The discovery of the copper mines alone saved the country from ruin. +The first was the Kapunda. It was accidentally discovered by a +shepherd, who picked up a piece on the surface of the ground, and +showed it to his master. Pieces of copper ore may even now be found in +the same way. + +Next followed the far-famed Burra-Burra. In the latter mine there is a +great quantity of malachite, which, when smelted, gives copper at an +average of eighty-five per cent. + +South Australia possesses the finest river in Australia--namely, the +Murray, on which steamers will soon ply as far as five hundred miles up +the country. On either side of this river is a thick and dry +scrub--sometimes ten, sometimes thirty miles wide. In this scrub, manna +is not unfrequently found, to the great delight of the natives, who are +very fond of it. It is of a very excellent description, and in colour +has a slight tendency to pink. + +Adelaide itself is a well-laid out town. The streets are built in the +same manner as in Sydney and Melbourne; but those in Adelaide are much +wider. Many of the buildings and warehouses are highly creditable, +particularly when we take the juvenile age of the colony into +consideration. + +Adelaide has never yet been "a transportation colony," and the society +there is usually considered more RECHERCHE than in any other city in +Australia. The climate is very good, and the vine flourishes as in the +south of France. The principal export of South Australia is copper, to +which may be added some wool and tallow. + +The roads about are excellent, and the small farms in the neighbourhood +are more in the English style than one could expect to meet with so +many thousand miles away from home. + +The overland route from Adelaide to Melbourne is about four hundred +miles in length. In summer the road is pretty good, but in winter, a +lake or swamp of twenty miles extent has to be waded through. + +The scrub about South Australia is very thick, and any one may easily +lose themselves in it. This has in fact often been the case, and a +fearful instance of it occurred some few years ago. A young lady--the +daughter of a gentleman residing near Adelaide--started out one Sunday +afternoon with a book as her companion. Evening came, and she did not +return, which alarmed her family, and search was made far and near--but +in vain. On the fourth day, they at length discovered her lying dead at +the foot of a tree. The pages of her book were covered with sentences, +pricked in with a pin, expressive of her sufferings and of her +unavailing efforts to retrace her steps. She was only three miles from +her father's house when she sank down to die of hunger, thirst, and +exhaustion; and probably during the whole time of her wanderings had +never exceeded that distance from her home. + +The Adelaide gold-diggings began to excite attention in the months of +August and September, 1852. In October the following report was made: + + +"Camp, Echunga, Gold-Fields, +"October 2, 1852. + +"Sir, + +"I have the honour to state for the information of his Excellency the +Lieutenant-Governor, that since my last report sixty licences have been +issued, making a total of three hundred and fifty-six. * * * * Many +families of respectability have arrived, and are now living in +comfortable and commodious tents. The presence of well-dressed women +and children gives to the gold-fields, apparently distinguished for +decorum, security and respectability. + +"From the feeling of greater security and comfort, combined with +cheapness of living, all classes of diggers are unanimous in their +preference of this place to Victoria. * * * * + +"The nugget of gold which I have forwarded for his Excellency's +inspection, weighing about an ounce and a half, was found about seven +feet below the surface.* * * * + +"There are some few amongst the lately arrived who expressed +dissatisfaction with the result of their labours and observations, +while others, who have been working for the last month, have promptly +renewed their expired licences. + +(Signed) "A. J. MURRAY, + "Assistant Gold Commissioner. + "The Hon. the Colonial Secretary." + + +In the month of October several pieces of gold, weighing each half an +ounce and upwards, were found, and a few of the holes that had been +abandoned by inexperienced hands, when taken possession of by old +diggers on the Turon or the Bendigo, were found to contain good washing +stuff. The diggings were well supplied with food of every kind; and +during the summer months there could be no lack of fruits and +vegetables in abundance, at reasonable prices, supplied from the +numerous and well-cultivated farms and gardens around. This is +certainly an advantage over the diggings of Victoria or New South +Wales, if gold really does exist in paying quantities; if not, all the +fruit and vegetables in the world would not keep the diggers at +Echunga. + +The following "Lament" was circulated in Adelaide, but not one of the +newspapers there would print it. They were all too anxious for the +success of their diggings, to countenance any grumblers against them: + + + A LAMENT FOR MY THIRTY SHILLINGS, + DEDICATED TO THE ECHUNGA VICTIMS, + + My one pound ten! my one pound ten! + I paid as Licence Fee; + Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return, + That one pound ten to me. + + When to Echunga diggings first + I hastened up from town, + Thy tent I sought with anxious care + And paid the money down. + + And though my folly ever since + I bitterly deplore, + It soothes my mind to know there were + Three scores of fools before. + + Then, Bonney, listen to my lay, + And if you wish to thrive, + Send back the money quick to me, + To number sixty-five. + + Who wants but little here below, + Nor wants that little long, + Had better to Echunga go, + And not to Mount Coorong. + + But as for me I like a swag, + At least a little more + Than what we got there in a week-- + Eight pennyweights 'mongst four. + + For that, of surface earth we washed + Of dray loads half a score; + I'll swear that cradling never seemed + Such tedious work before. + + To sink for gold we then commenced, + With grief I must confess, + 'Twas fruitless toil, although we went + Down thirty feet or less. + + All you who've paid your one pound ten, + Are on your licence told + That then you are entitled to + Remove alluvial gold. + + But if the alluvial gold's not there + I'd like to have it proved + By what ingenious process it + Can ever be removed? + + Then back to Bendigo I'll haste, + To seek the precious ore; + Although my one pound ten I fear + Returns to me no more. + + Yet as the boundary line I cross, + My parting prayer shall be-- + Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return + My one pound ten to me! + + ANTIGROPOLOS. + Adelaide, September 1852. + + +With a short extract from the "South Australian Register" of +February 7, 1853, I shall conclude my remarks on the Adelaide diggings. + + +"THE GOLD FIELDS.--Although there is at the diggings everything to +indicate gold in large quantities, none have succeeded in realizing +their hopes. The majority content themselves with what they can get on +Chapman's Hill and Gully, knowing that, if a fresh place is discovered, +they will stand as good a chance as those who have spent months +in trying to find better ground. + +"The quantity of gold taken to the Assay-office, during four +consecutive weeks, amounting to less than four thousand ounces, the +Governor has proclaimed that after the 17th of February the office will +be closed." + + + + +Chapter XVI. + +MELBOURNE AGAIN + + +It was on Monday the 25th of October, that for the second time I +entered Melbourne. Not many weeks had elapsed since I had quitted it +for my adventurous trip to the diggings, yet in that short space of +time how many changes had taken place. The cloudy sky was exchanged for +a brilliant sunshine, the chilling air for a truly tropical heat, the +drizzling rain for clouds of thick cutting dust, sometimes as thick as +a London fog, which penetrated the most substantial veil, and made our +skins smart terribly. The streets too had undergone a wondrous +transformation. Collins Street looked quite bright and cheerful, and +was the fashionable promenade of those who had time or inclination for +lounging. Parties of diggers were constantly starting or arriving, +trips to St. Kilda and Brighton were daily taking place; and a coach +was advertised to run to the diggings! I cannot quite realize the +terrified passengers being driven through the Black Forest, but can +picture their horror when ordered to "bail up" by a party of Australian +Turpins. + +In every window--milliners, baby-linen warehouses, &c., included--was +exhibited the usual advertisement of the gold buyer--namely, a heap of +gold in the centre, on one side a pile of sovereigns, on the other +bank-notes. The most significant advertisement was one I saw in a +window in Collins Street. In the middle was a skull perforated by a +bullet, which lay at a little distance as if coolly examining or +speculating on the mischief it had done. On one side of the skull was a +revolver, and on the other a quantity of nuggets. Above all, was the +emphatic inscription, "Beware in time." This rather +uncomfortable-looking tableau signified--in as speaking a manner as +symbols can--that the unfortunate skull had once belonged to some more +unfortunate lucky digger, who not having had the sense to sell his gold +to the proprietor of this attractive window had kept his nuggets in his +pocket, thereby tempting some robbers--significantly personified by the +revolver--to shoot him, and steal the gold. Nowhere could you turn your +eye without meeting "30,000 oz. wanted immediately; highest price +given;" "10,000 oz. want to consign per ----; extra price given to +immediate sellers," &c. Outwardly it seemed a city of gold, yet +hundreds were half perishing for want of food, with no place of shelter +beneath which to lay their heads. Many families of freshly-arrived +emigrants--wife, children, and all--slept out in the open air; infants +were born upon the wharves with no helping hand near to support the +wretched mother in her misery. + +How greatly the last few weeks had enlarged Melbourne. Cities of tents +encompassed it on all sides; though, as I said before, the trifling +comfort of a canvas roof above them, was denied to the poorest +of the poor, unless a weekly tax were paid! + +But I must return to ourselves. Our first business the next morning was +to find for our little Jessie some permanent home; for all our +movements were so uncertain--I myself, thinking of a return to the old +country--that it was considered advisable to obtain for her some better +friends than a set of volatile, though good-hearted young fellows--not +the most suitable protection for a young girl, even in so lax a place +as the colonies. We never thought of letting her return to England, for +there the life of a female, who has her own livelihood to earn, is one +of badly-paid labour, entailing constant privation, and often great +misery--if not worse. I have before said that William had relatives in +Melbourne, and to them we determined to entrust her. Mrs. R----- was a +kind-hearted and most exemplary woman; and having a very young family +of her own, was well pleased at such an acquisition as the thoughtful, +industrious little Jessie. Each of our party contributed a +small portion of their golden earnings to form a fund for a future day, +which I doubt not will be increased by our little friend's industry, +long before she needs it. Here let us leave her, trusting that her +future life may be as happy as her many excellent qualities deserve, +and hoping that her severest trials have already passed over her. + +Our next care was to obtain our gold from the Escort-office; to do +which the receipts given in Bendigo had to be handed in, and after very +little delay the precious packets were restored to their respective +owners. The following is a facsimile of the tickets, printed on +parchment, attached to each parcel of which a duplicate, printed on +common paper, is given to the depositor: + + BENDIGO CREEK. + No. 2772. + Date, 8th of October, 1852. + Name, Mr. A----. + Quantity, 60 oz. 10 dwts. + Consigned to, Self. + +The trifling charge for all this trouble and responsibility is sixpence +an ounce. + +The business satisfactorily arranged, the next was to dispose of it. +Some was converted into money, and sold for 69s. an ounce; and the +remainder was consigned to England, where, being very pure and above +standard, it realized 4 pounds an ounce. A great difference that! + +We next paid Richard a visit, who, though surprised was well pleased to +see us again. He declared his resolution of returning to England as +soon as possible. Our party fixed their journey to the Ovens to take +place in three weeks. William determined to remain in town, which I +think showed wisdom on his part as his health was not equal to roughing +it in the bush; and this was a much more formidable trip than the last, +on account of length, and being much less frequented. + +Meanwhile we enjoyed the fine weather, and our present companionship, +as much as possible, while taking little trips here, there, and +everywhere. The one I most enjoyed was a sail in the Bay. The +captain of the vessel in which we left England, was still detained in +Port Philip for want of hands--the case of hundreds--and offered to give +us a sail, and a dinner on board afterwards. We soon made up a large +party, and enjoyed it exceedingly. The day was lovely. We walked down +to Liardet's Beach, a distance of nearly three miles, and were soon +calmly skimming over the waters. We passed St. Kilda and Brighton, and +gained an excellent view of the innumerable vessels then lying useless +and half-deserted in the Bay. + +It was a sad though a pretty sight. There were fine East Indiamen, +emigrant ships, American clippers, steamers, traders--foreign and +English--whalers, &c., waiting there only through want of seamen. + +In the cool of the evening our gallant host rowed us back to the beach. +Since our first landing, tents and stores had been erected in great +numbers, and Little Adelaide was grown wonderfully. I think I have +never mentioned the quantity of frogs that abound in Australia. +This particular evening I remarked them more than usual, and without +the least exaggeration their croaking resembled a number of mills in +motion. I know nothing to which I can more appropriately liken the +noise that resounded along the swampy portions of the road, from the +beach to Melbourne. + +Much has been said of the climate of Australia, and many are the +conflicting statements thereon. The following table contains all the +information--personal and otherwise--which I have been enabled to +collect. + +JANUARY AND FEBRUARY.--Generally the hottest months; average of the +thermometer, 78 in the shade; thunder-storms and COLONIAL showers of +rain occasionally visit us. + +MARCH.--Fine genial weather; average temperature, 73 in the shade. + +APRIL.--Weather more uncertain; mosquitos depart; average temperature, +70 in the shade: + +MAY.--Fine, till towards the latter part of the month, when sometimes +the rainy season commences; average temperature in the shade, 64. + +JUNE.--Rainy, and much cooler; temperature at an average of 58 in the +shade. + +JULY.--Coldest month in the year; midwinter in the colonies; average +temperature, 53. Ice and snow may be seen inland. + +AUGUST.--Very rainy. Average temperature, 58 in the shade. + +SEPTEMBER.--Windy stormy month; weather getting warmer. Average +temperature, 63 in the shade. + +OCTOBER--The presence of the mosquito, a sure proof that the weather is +permanently warm. Average temperature in the shade, 66. + +NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER.--Tropically warm. Locusts, mosquitos, and +unnumbered creeping things swarm both in bush and town. Towards the end +of December the creeks commence to dry up, and the earth looks parched +for want of rain. No yule-log needed on Christmas Day. Thermometer as +high as 97 in the shade; average 75. + +The principal trees in Australia are the gum, stringy bark, manna tree, +wild cherry (so called), iron bark, shea oak, peppermint, +acacia, and the mimosa, which last, however, should more properly be +called a shrub. These and others, like the Indian malelucas, are +remarkable for the Cajeput oil contained in their leaves, and in the +gums which exude from their sterns, and in this point of view alone, +considering their boundless number, their value can hardly be over +estimated. The gum of some of the acacias will bear comparison with +gum-arabic. Their bark and timber are likewise useful, and when the +gold fever has subsided, will become valuable as exports. + +Wild flowers there are in abundance, and some exquisite specimens of +ferns. For the benefit of those better skilled in botany than myself, I +give the following list of Dr. Muller's indigenous plants of Victoria. +Correaochrolenca and Phebalium Asteriscophorum, both with the medical +properties of the Bucco-bush, Eurybia Rhodochaeta, E. Rugosa, E. +Adenophylla, E. Asterotristia, Sambucus, Gaudichaudiana, Prostanthera +Hirsuta, Pimelea axiflora (powerful Surrogat of the Mezerion +shrub), Bossidea decumbcus, Asterotristia asperifolia, Patersonia +aspera, Grevilliea repens, Dallachiana, &c. + +The geranium, fuschia, rhododendrum, and almost all varieties of the +Cacti have been taken to the colonies, and flourish well in the open +air all the year round, growing much more luxuriantly than in England. + +The vineyards must some day form a considerable source of employment +and profit to the colonists. The wine made in Australia is very good. +The vines are cultivated in the same manner as in France. In the +neighbourhood of Sydney, oranges and peaches are grown out in the open +air. Apples and other fruits flourish well in Van Diemen's Land. All +these fruits are not indigenous to Australia. The only articles of food +natural there, are the kangaroos, emus, opossums, and other denizens of +the forest, a few snakes, some roots, and a worm, about the length and +thickness of a finger, which is abundant in all parts of the colony, +and is taken out of the cavities, or from under the bark, of the trees. +It is a great favourite with the blacks, as it can be procured +when no other food is attainable. + +I have before made mention of the bush and scrub; there is a great +dissimilarity between the two. The former resembles a forest, with none +or very little underwood. The scrub, on the contrary, is always +underwood, of from six to twenty feet high, and only here and there a +few trees are seen. To be lost in either bush or scrub is a common +thing. If on horseback the best way is to give the rein to your +four-footed companion, and instinct will most probably enable him to +extricate you. If on foot, ascend, if possible, a rise of ground, and +notice any FALL in the country; here, most likely, is a creek, and once +beside that, you are pretty sure of coming to a station. If this fails, +you must just bush it for the night, and resume your search next +morning, trusting to an occasional "coo-ey" to help you out of your +difficulty. + +The scenery of Australia partakes of all characters. Sometimes miles of +swamp reminds one of the Lincolnshire fens; at other times it assumes +quite a park-like appearance, though the effect is greatly +injured by the want of freshness about the foliage, which always looks +of a dirty, dingy green. The native trees in Australia never shed their +leaves, never have that exquisite young tint which makes an English +spring in the country so delicious. Their faded look always reminded me +of those unfortunate trees imprisoned for so many months beneath the +Crystal Palace. + +The mountains in Australia are high and bold in outline, and the +snow-capped Alps on the boundaries of New South Wales are not unlike +their European namesakes, the highest tops are from six to seven +thousand feet above the level of the sea. The country round Ballarat is +more in the North American style, and when the creek is full, it is a +fine sight, greatly resembling, I have beard, one of the smaller rivers +in Canada; in fact, the scenery round Ballarat is said to approach more +to Upper Canada than any in the colony. The rocks, although not high, +are in places very bold and romantic, and in the wet season there are +several water-falls in the neighbourhood. + +Eels are very plentiful in Victoria, and are peculiar to this district, +being seldom, if ever, found in any other part of the known continent. +Old writers on Australia have stated that eels are unknown in this part +of the world, which, since this colony has been settled in, has been +found to be erroneous, as the Barwin, the Yarra Yarra, and their +tributaries abound with them, some weighing five or six pounds. A few +days after our return from the diggings, we breakfasted off a dish of +stewed eels, caught by a friend; the smallest weighed about a pound and +a half, the largest about three pounds. They were caught three miles +from Melbourne, in the Salt Water Creek. + +A small kind of fish like the lamprey, another similar to the gudgeon, +and also one (of rather a larger kind--the size of the roach) called +here "white herrings," but not at all resembling that fish, are found. +Pike are also very numerous. Crabs and lobsters are not known here, but +in the salt creeks near the sea we have craw-fish. + +Of course, parrots, cockatoos and "sich-like," abound in the +bush, to the horror of the small gardeners and cultivators, as what +they do not eat they ruin by destroying the young shoots. + +Kangaroos are extremely numerous in the scrub. They are the size of a +large greyhound, and of a mouse colour. The natives call them +"kanguru." The tail is of great strength. There are several varieties +of them. The largest is the Great Kangaroo, of a greyish-brown colour, +generally four or five feet high and the tail three. Some kangaroos are +nearly white, others resemble the hare in colour. Pugs, or young +kangaroos, are plentiful about the marshy grounds; so are also the +opossum and kangaroo rat. The latter is not a rat, properly speaking, +but approaches the squirrel tribe. It is a lilliputian kangaroo, the +size of our native wood squirrel and larger, only grey or reddish-grey. +It can leap six or eight feet easily, and is excellent eating. The +native dog is of all colours; it has the head and brush of a fox, with +the body a legs of a dog. It is a cowardly animal, and will run away +from you like mad. It is a great enemy of the kangaroo rat, and +a torment to the squatter, for a native dog has a great PENCHANT for +mutton and will kill thirty or forty sheep in the course of an hour. + +A species of mocking-bird which inhabits the bush is a ludicrous +creature. It imitates everything, and makes many a camping party +imagine there is a man near them, when they hear its whistle or hearty +laugh. This bird is nicknamed the "Jackass," and its loud "ha! ha! ha!" +is heard every morning at dawn echoing through the woods and serving +the purpose of a "boots" by calling the sleepy traveller in good time +to get his breakfast and pursue his journey. The bats here are very +large. + +Insects, fleas, &c., are as plentiful as it is possible to be, and the +ants, of which there are several kinds, are a perfect nuisance. The +largest are called by the old colonists, "bull-dogs," and formidable +creatures they are--luckily not very common, about an inch and a half +long, black, or rusty-black, with a red tail. They bite like a +little crab. Ants of an inch long are quite common. They do not--like the +English ones--run scared away at the sight of a human being--not a +bit of it; Australian ants have more PLUCK, and will turn and face you. +Nay, more, should you RETREAT, they will run after you with all the +impudence imaginable. Often when my organ of destructiveness has +tempted me slightly to disturb with the end of my parasol one of the +many ant-hills on the way from Melbourne to Richmond, I have been +obliged, as soon as they discovered the perpetrator of the attack, to +take to my heels and run away as if for my life. + +Centipedes and triantelopes (colonial, for tarantula) are very common, +and though not exactly fatal, are very dangerous if not attended to. +The deaf adder is the most formidable "varmint" in Australia. There are +two varieties; it is generally about two feet long. The bite is fatal. +The deaf adder never moves unless it is touched, hence its name. I do +not think it has the power of twisting or twirling, like the +ordinary snake or adder and it is very slow in its movements. There are +several species of snakes, some of them are extremely venomous and grow +to a large size, as long as ten feet. The black snake is the most +venomous of any; its bite is fatal within a few hours. + +But let us leave these wilder subjects and return to Melbourne. + +The state of society in the town had not much improved during my +absence. On the public road from Melbourne to St. Kilda, fifteen men +were robbed in one afternoon, and tied to trees within sight of one +another. In Melbourne itself the same want of security prevailed, and +concerts, lectures, &c., were always advertised to take place when +there was a full moon, the only nights any one, unarmed, dared venture, +out after dusk. The following extract from the "Argus," gives a fair +specimen of Melbourne order. + +"We are led to these remarks (referring to a tirade against the +Government) by an occurrence that took place last week in Queen Street, +the whole detail of which is peculiarly illustrative of the +very creditable state of things, to which, under the happy auspices of +a La Trobe dynasty, we are rapidly descending. + +"A ruffian robs a man in a public-house, in broad daylight. He is +pursued by a constable and taken. On the way to the watchhouse a mob +collects, the police are attacked, pistols are pointed, bludgeons and +axe-handles are brought out of the adjacent houses (all still in broad +daylight, and in a busy street), and distributed amongst the crowd, +loud cries inciting attack are heard, a scuffle ensues, the police are +beaten, the prisoner is rescued, the crowd separates, and a man is left +dead upon the ground. The body is taken into a public-house, an inquest +is held, the deceased is recognized as a drunkard, the jury is assured +that a POST-MORTEM examination is quite unnecessary; and the man is +buried, after a verdict is brought in of 'Died by the visitation of +God;' the said visitation of God having, in this instance, assumed the +somewhat peculiar form of a fractured skull!" + +This is a true picture of Melbourne; but whether the "Argus" is +justified in reproaching the "La Trobe dynasty" with it, is quite +another matter. + +In pages like these, anything resembling an argument on the +"transportation question," would be sadly out of place. To avoid +thinking or hearing it was impossible, for during my second stay in +Melbourne, it was a never-failing subject of conversation. In Victoria +(which is only forty-eight hours' journey from Van Diemen's Land), I +have seen the bad results of the mingling of so many transports and +ticket-of-leave men among the free population. On the other hand, I +have heard from many and good authorities, of the substantial benefits +conferred on Sydney and New South Wales by convict labour. It is +difficult to reconcile these two statements, and it is an apple of +discord in the colonies. + +Whilst in Victoria, I met with a great variety of emigrants, and I was +much struck by the great success that seems to have attended on almost +all of those who came out under the auspices of Mrs. Chisholm. No one +in England can fully appreciate the benefits her unwearied +exertions have conferred upon the colonies. I have met many of the +matrons of her ships, and not only do they themselves seem to have made +their way in the world, but the young females who were under their care +during the voyage appear to have done equally well. Perhaps one way of +accounting for this, is the fact that a great many of those going out +by the Chisholm Society are from Scotland, the inhabitants of which +country are peculiarly fortunate in the colonies, their industry, +frugality, and "canniness" being the very qualities to make a fortune +there. "Sydney Herbert's needlewomen" bear but a bad name; and the +worst recommendation a young girl applying for a situation can give, is +to say she came out in that manner--not because the colonists look down +on any one coming out by the assistance of others, but because it is +imagined her female associates on the voyage cannot have been such as +to improve her morality, even if she were good for anything before. + +Much is said and written in England about the scarcity of +females in Australia, and the many good offers awaiting the acceptance +of those who have the courage to travel so far. But the colonial +bachelors, who are so ready to get married, and so very easy in their +choice of a wife, are generally those the least calculated, in spite of +their wealth, to make a respectable girl happy; whilst the better class +of squatters and diggers--if they do not return home to get married, +which is often the case--are not satisfied with any one, however pretty, +for a wife, unless her manners are cultivated and her principles +correct. + +To wander through Melbourne and its environs, no one would imagine that +females were as one to four of the male population; for bonnets and +parasols everywhere outnumber the wide-awakes. This is occasioned by +the absence of so many of the "lords of creation" in pursuit of what +they value--many of them, at least--more than all the women in the +world--nuggets. The wives thus left in town to deplore their husbands' +infatuation, are termed "grass-widows"--a mining expression. + +And now two out of the three weeks of our party's stay in Melbourne has +expired, during which time a change (purely personal) had made my +brother's protection no longer needed by me. MY wedding-trip was to be +to England, and the marriage was to take place, and myself and CARO +SPOSO to leave Australia before my brother departed for the Ovens +diggings. The 'C----,' a fine East Indiaman, then lying in the bay, was +bound for London. We were to be on board by the 12th of November. + +This of course gave me plenty to do, and my last morning but one in +Melbourne was dedicated to that favourite feminine occupation--which, +however, I detest--I mean, shopping. This being accomplished to my great +dissatisfaction--for all I bought could have been obtained, of a better +description, for half the price in England--I was preparing to return +home by way of Collins Street, when my name in familiar accents made me +suddenly pause. I instantly recognised the lady who addressed me as one +of the English governesses in a "finishing" school where three years of +my girlhood were passed. Julia ------ was a great favourite among +us; no one could have done otherwise than admire the ability and +good-humour with which she fulfilled her many arduous duties. Perhaps, +of all miserable positions for a well-educated and refined young person +to be placed in, that of "little girls' teacher" in a lady's school is +the worst. + +Her subsequent history I learnt as we walked together to my present +abode. + +Her mother had had a cousin in Sydney, who being old and unmarried, +wrote to her, promising to settle all his property, which was +considered large, upon her daughter and herself, his only living +relatives, provided they came out to the colonies to live with him +until his death. A sum of money to defray the expenses of the voyage +was enclosed. This piece of unexpected good news was received with +pleasure, and the invitation gladly accepted. They sailed for Sydney. +On arriving there, they found that some speculation, in which he was +greatly involved, had failed; and the old man had taken the loss so +greatly to heart, that he died only five months after having +dispatched the letter to his English relatives. + +Poor Julia was placed in a most painful position. In England she had +scarcely been able to support her invalid mother by her own exertions, +but in a strange country and without friends these difficulties seemed +increased. Her first act was to look over the advertizing columns of +the papers, and her eye caught sight of one which seemed exactly to +suit her. It was, "Wanted, a governess to take the entire charge of a +little girl, the daughter of a widower, and also an elderly lady, to +superintend the domestic arrangements of the same family during the +continual absence of the master at another station." Julia wrote +immediately, and was accepted. In the occasional visits that her +pupil's father paid to his little girl, he could not fail to be struck +by the sweet disposition and many other good qualities of her +governess, and it ended by his making her his wife. I felt at liberty +to congratulate her, for she looked the picture of happiness. I saw her +again next day, when she showed me the advertisement which had +been the means of such a change in her circumstances. + +The day before my departure was a painful one, so many farewells to be +taken of dear friends whom I should never meet again. + +On Friday, the 15th of November, my brother and all our party, Richard +and Jessie included, accompanied us to the pier at Williamstown, to +which we were conveyed by a steamer. For this we paid five shillings +a-piece, and the same for each separate box or parcel, and twelve +shillings to a man for carting our luggage down to the Melbourne wharf, +a distance of not a mile. + +On landing at the pier, how greatly was I astonished to meet Harriette +and her husband. Her modest desires were gratified, and they had +realized sufficient capital at the diggings to enable them to settle +most comfortably near Adelaide. In hurried words she told me this, for +their boat was already alongside the pier waiting to take them to their +ship. Hardly had they departed than a boat arrived from our +vessel to convey us to it. Sad adieux were spoken, and we were rowed +away. + +That evening a pilot came on board, anchors were weighed, we left the +bay, and I saw Melbourne no more. + + + + +Chapter XVII. + +HOMEWARD BOUND + + +We soon left Port Philip far behind, and in a few days saw nothing but +a vast expanse of water all around us. Our vessel was filled with +returning diggers; and it is worth while to remark that only two had +been unsuccessful, and these had only been at the diggings a few days. + +One family on board interested me very much. It consisted of father, +mother, and two children. The eldest, a little, girl, had been born +some time before they left England. Her brother was a sturdy fellow of +two years old, born in the colonies soon after their arrival. +He could just toddle about the deck, where he was everlastingly looking +for "dold," and "nuddets." The whole family had been at the diggings +for nine months, and were returning with something more than 2,000 pounds +worth of gold. In England it had been hard work to obtain sufficient +food by the most constant labour; they had good reason to be thankful +for the discovery of the gold-fields. + +Saturday, November 27, was forty-eight hours long, or two days of the +same name and date. Sailing right round the world in the direction of +from west to east, we gained exactly twenty-four hours upon those who +stay at home; and we were therefore obliged to make one day double to +prevent finding ourselves wrong in our dates and days on our arrival in +England. Melbourne is about ten hours before London, and therefore +night, and day are reversed. + +Rapidly it became cooler, for the winds were rather contrary, and drove +us much farther south than was needed. We were glad to avail +ourselves of our opossum rugs to keep ourselves warm. One of these rugs +is quite sufficient covering of a night in the coldest weather, and +imparts as much heat as a dozen blankets. They are made from the skins +of the opossums, sewn together by the natives with the sinews of the +same animal. Each skin is about twelve inches by eight, or smaller; and +as the rugs are generally very large, they contain sometimes as many as +eighty skins. They may be tastefully arranged, as there is a great +difference in the colours; some being like a rich sable, others nearly +black, and others again of a grey and light brown. The fur is long and +silky. At one time a rug of this description was cheap enough--perhaps +as much as two sovereigns but the great demand for them by diggers, +&c., has made them much more scarce, and it now requires a ten +pound-note to get a good one. The best come from Van Diemen's Land. In +summer they are disagreeable, as they harbour insects. + +However, whilst rounding Cape Horn, in the coldest weather I ever +experienced, we were only too happy to throw them over us +during the nights. + +One morning we were awakened by a great confusion on deck. Our ship was +ploughing through a quantity of broken ice. That same afternoon, we +sighted an immense iceberg about ten miles from us. Its size may be +imagined from the fact, that, although we were sailing at a rate of ten +knots an hour, we kept it in sight till dark. This was on the 3rd of +December. + +We soon rounded the Horn, and had some very rough weather. One of the +sailors fell off the jib-boom; and the cry of "man overboard" made our +hearts beat with horror. Every sail was on; we were running right +before the wind, and the waves were mountains high, a boat must have +been swamped; and long before we could "bout ship", he had sunk to +rise no more. + +After rounding Cape Horn, we made rapid progress; by Christmas Day, we +were in the Tropics. It was not kept with much joviality, for water and +food were running scarce. Provisions were so dear in Melbourne, +that they had laid in a short allowance of everything, and our captain +had not anticipated half so many passengers. We tried, therefore, to +put into St. Helena, but contrary winds preventing us, we sailed back +again to the South American coast, and anchored off Pernambuco. It was +providential that economical intentions made our captain prefer this +port, for had we touched at Rio, we should have encountered the yellow +fever, which we afterwards heard was raging there. + +Pernambuco is apparently a very pretty place. We were anchored about +four miles from the town, so had a good view of the coast. I longed to +be on shore to ramble beneath the elegant cocoa-nut-trees. The weather +was intensely hot, for it was in the commencement of January; and the +boats full of fruit, sent from the shore for sale, were soon emptied by +us. I call them boats, but they are properly termed catamarans. They +are made of logs of wood lashed securely together; they have a sail and +oars but no sides, so the water rushes over, and threatens +every moment to engulf the frail conveyance; but no, the wood is too +light for that. The fruits brought us from shore were oranges, +pine-apples, water-melons, limes, bananas, cocoa-nuts, &c., and some +yams, which were a good substitute for potatoes. The fruit was all very +good, and astonishingly cheap; our oranges being green, lasted till we +reached England. Some of our passengers went on shore, and returned +with marvellous accounts of the dirtiness and narrowness of the +streets, and the extremely NATURAL costume of the natives. + +We remained here about four days, and then, with favourable winds, +pursued our voyage at an average rate of ten or twelve knots an hour. +As we neared the English coast, our excitement increased to an awful +height; and for those who had been many years away, I can imagine every +trivial delay was fraught with anxiety. + +But we come in sight of land; and in spite of the cold weather, for it +is now February, 1853, every one rushes to the deck. On we go; +at last we are in the Downs, and then the wind turned right against us. + +Boats were put off from the Deal beach. The boatmen there rightly +calculated that lucky gold-diggers wouldn't mind paying a pound a-piece +to get ashore, so they charged that, and got plenty of customers +notwithstanding. + +On Sunday, the 27th of February, I again set foot on my native land. It +was evening when we reached the shore, and there was only an open +vehicle to convey us to the town of Deal itself. The evening was +bitterly cold, and the snow lay upon the ground. As we proceeded along, +the sounds of the Sabbath bell broke softly on the air. No greeting +could have been more pleasing or more congenial to my feelings. + + + + +Chapter XVIII. + +CONCLUSION + + +As I trust that, in the foregoing pages, I have slightly interested my +readers in "our party," the following additional account of their +movements, contained in letters addressed to me by my brother, may not +be quite uninteresting. + +The Ovens diggings are on the river of the same name, which takes its +rise in the Australian Alps, and flows into the Murray. As these Alps +separate New South Wales from Victoria, these diggings belong to the +latter province. They are about forty miles from the town of +Albury. They are spread over a large space of ground. The principal +localities are Spring and Reid's Creeks. + +Now for the letters. + + +"Melbourne, January 5, 1853. + +"My dear E--, + +"You'll be surprised at the heading of this but the Ovens are not to my +taste, and I'm off again with Frank and Octavius to Bendigo tomorrow. I +suppose you'll like to hear of our adventures up to the Ovens, and the +reasons for this sudden change of plans. We left Melbourne the Monday +after you sailed, and camped out half-way to Kilmore, a little beyond +the 'Lady of the Lake.' The day was fine, but the dust made us +wretched. Next day, we reached Kilmore--stopped there all night. Next +day on again, and the farther we went, the more uncivilized it +became--hills here, forests there, as wild and savage as any one could +desire. It was 'bushing it' with a vengeance. This lasted several days. +Once we lost our road, and came, by good luck, to a sort of +station. They received us very hospitably, and set us right next +morning. Four days after, we came to the Goulburn river. There was a +punt to take us over, and a host of people (many from Bendigo) waiting +to cross. Three days after, we pitched out tents at the Ovens. Here I +soon saw it was no go. There was too much water, and too little gold; +and even if they could knock the first difficulty on the head, I don't +think they could do the same to the second. In my own mind, I think it +impossible that the Ovens will ever turn out the second Bendigo that +many imagine. Hundreds differ from me, therefore it's hundreds to one +that I'm wrong. The average wages, as far as I can judge, are an ounce +a-week; some much more, many much less. We did not attempt digging +ourselves. Eagle Hawk shallowness has spoilt us, for not even Octavius +(who, you know of old, was a harder worker than either Frank or self) +thinks it worth digging through fourteen or sixteen feet of +hard clay for the mere pleasure of exercising our limbs. Provisions +there were not at the high price that many supposed they would be, but +quite high enough, Heaven knows! Meat was very scarce and bad, and +flour all but a shilling a pound; and if the fresh arrivals keep +flocking in, and no greater supply of food, it will get higher still. +We stayed there two weeks, then brought our dray back again, and are +now busy getting ready for a fresh start to Bendigo. Among other things +we shall take, are lemonade and ginger-beer powders, a profitable +investment, though laughable. The weather is very hot--fancy 103 degrees +in the shade. Water is getting scarce." + + * * * * * + +"Have seen all our friends in Melbourne except Richard, who left for +England a fortnight ago. Jessie is well, and growing quite pretty. She +says she is extremely happy, and sends such a number of +messages to you, that I'll write none, for fear of making a mistake. +Will write again soon." + + * * * * * + +"Your affectionate brother, in haste, + "----" + + + +"Melbourne, April 17, 1853. + +"My dear E----, + +"I suppose you've thought I was buried in my hole, or 'kilt' by +bushrangers in the Black Forest; but I've been so occupied in the +worship of Mammon, as to have little thoughts for anything else. + + * * * * * + +"We made a good thing of our last two speculations. Ginger-beer and +lemonade, or lemon kali, at sixpence a tiny glass, paid well. A +successful digger would drink off a dozen one after another. Some days, +we have taken ten pounds in sixpences at this fun. What they +bought of us wouldn't harm them, but many mix up all sorts of injurious +articles to sell; but our consciences, thank God! are not colonised +sufficiently for that. We have had steady good luck in the digging line +(for we combine everything), and after this next trip, mean to dissolve +partnership. + + * * * * * + +"Octavius talks of going out as overseer, or something of that sort, to +some squatter in New South Wales for a year or so, just to learn the +system, &c., and then, if possible, take a sheep-run himself. Frank +means to send for Mrs. Frank and small Co. He says he shall stay in +Victoria for some years. I do believe he likes the colony. As for +myself, I hope to see the last of it in six weeks' time. + +* * * * * + +"Hurrah for Old England!--no place like it. + +* * * * * + +"Your very affectionate brother, + "----" + + +With a cordial assent to the last few words, I conclude these pages. + + + + +APPENDIX + +WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE? + + +The question of "Who should emigrate?" has now become one of such +importance (owing to the number who are desirous of quitting their +native land to seek a surer means of subsistence in our vast colonial +possessions), that any book treating of Australia would be sadly +deficient were a subject of such universal interest to be left +unnoticed; and where there are so many of various capabilities, means +and dispositions, in need of guidance and advice as to the advantage +of their emigrating, it is probable that the experience of any one, +however slight that experience may be, will be useful to some. + +Any one to succeed in the colonies must take with him a quantity of +self-reliance, energy, and perseverance; this is the best capital a man +can have. Let none rely upon introductions--they are but useless things +at the best--they may get you invited to a good dinner; but now that +fresh arrivals in Melbourne are so much more numerous than heretofore, +I almost doubt if they would do even that. A quick, clever fellow with +a trade of his own, inured to labour, and with a light heart, that can +laugh at the many privations which the gipsy sort of life he must lead +in the colonies will entail upon him; any one of this description +cannot fail to get on. But for the number of clerks, shopmen, &c., who +daily arrive in Australia, there is a worse chance of their gaining a +livelihood than if they had remained at home. With this description of +labour the colonial market is largely overstocked; and it is +distressing to notice the number of young men incapable of +severe manual labour, who, with delicate health, and probably still +more delicately filled purses, swarm the towns in search of employment, +and are exposed to heavy expenses which they can earn nothing to meet. +Such men have rarely been successful at the diggings; the demand for +them in their accustomed pursuits is very limited in proportion to +their numbers; they gradually sink into extreme poverty--too often into +reckless or criminal habits--till they disappear from the streets to +make way for others similarly unfortunate. + +A little while since I met with the histories of two individuals +belonging to two very different classes of emigrants; and they are so +applicable to this subject, that I cannot forbear repeating them. + +The first account is that of a gentleman who went to Melbourne some +eight months ago, carrying with him a stock of elegant acquirements and +accomplishments, but little capital. He is now in a starving condition, +almost with-out the hope of extrication, and is imploring from +his friends the means to return to England, if he live long enough to +receive them. The colours in which he paints the colonies are +deplorable in the extreme. + +The other account is that of a compositor who emigrated much about the +same time. He writes to his former office-mates that he got immediate +and constant employment at the rate of 7 pounds per week, and naturally +thinks that there is no place under the sun like Melbourne. Both +emigrants are right. There is no better place under the sun than +Melbourne for those who can do precisely what the Melbourne people +want; and which they must and will have at any price; but there is no +worse colony to which those can go who have not the capabilities +required by the Melbourne people. They are useless and in the way, +their accomplishments are disregarded, their misfortunes receive no +pity; and, whilst a good carpenter or bricklayer would make a fortune, +a modern Raphael might starve. + +But even those possessed of every qualification for making first-class +colonists, will at first meet with much to surprise and annoy them, and +will need all the energy they possess, to enable them to overcome the +many disagreeables which encounter them as soon as they arrive. + +Let us, for example, suppose the case of an emigrant, with no +particular profession or business, but having a strong constitution, +good common sense, and a determination to bear up against every +hardship, so that in the end it leads him to independence. Let us +follow him through the difficulties that bewilder the stranger in +Melbourne during the first few days of his arrival. + +The commencement of his dilemmas will be that of getting his luggage +from the ship; and so quickly do the demands for pounds and shillings +fall upon him, that he is ready to wish he had pitched half his "traps" +over-board. However, we will suppose him at length safely landed on the +wharf at Melbourne, with all his boxes beside him. He inquires +for a store, and learns that there are plenty close at hand; and then +forgetting that he is in the colonies, he looks round for a porter and +truck, and looks in vain. After waiting as patiently as he can for +about a couple of hours, he manages to hire an empty cart and driver; +the latter lifts the boxes into the conveyance (expecting, of course, +his employer to lend a hand), smacks his whip, and turns down street +after street till he reaches a tall, grim-looking budding, in front of +which he stops, with a "That ere's a store," and a demand for a +sovereign, more or less. This settled, he coolly requests the emigrant +to assist him in unloading, and leaves him to get his boxes carried +inside as best he can. Perhaps some of the storekeeper's men come to +the rescue, and with their help the luggage is conveyed into the +store-room (which is often sixty or eighty feet in length), where the +owner receives a memorandum of their arrival. Boxes or parcels may +remain there in perfect safety for months, so long as a +shilling a week is paid for each. + +Our emigrant, having left his property in security, now turns to seek a +lodging for himself; and the extreme difficulty of procuring house +accommodation, with its natural consequences, an extraordinary rate of +rent, startles and amazes him. He searches the city in vain, and +betakes himself to the suburbs, where he procures a small, +half-furnished room, in a wooden house for thirty shillings a week. The +scarcity of houses in proportion to the population, is one of the +greatest drawbacks to the colony; but we could not expect it to be +otherwise when we remember that in one year Victoria received an +addition of nearly 80,000 inhabitants. The masculine portion of these +emigrants, with few exceptions, started off at once to the diggings; +hence the deficiency in the labour market is only partially filled up +by the few who remained behind, and by the fewer still who forsake the +gold-fields; whilst the abundance of money, and the deficiency of good +workmen, have raised the expenses of building far above the +point at which it would be a profitable investment for capital. +Meantime, the want is only partially supplied by the wooden cottages +which are daily springing up around the boundaries of the city; but +this is insufficient to meet the increasing want of shelter, and on the +southern bank of the Yarra there are four or five thousand people +living in tents. This settlement is appropriately called "Canvas Town." + +But let us return to our newly-arrived emigrant. + +Having succeeded in obtaining a lodging, he proceeds to purchase some +necessary articles of food, and looks incredulously at the shopkeeper +when told that butter is 3s. 6d. a pound, cheese, ham, or bacon 2s. to +2s. 6d., and eggs 4s. or 5s. a dozen. He wisely dispenses with such +luxuries, and contents himself with bread at 1s. 6d. the four-pound +loaf, and meat at 5d. a pound. He sleeps soundly, for the day has been +a fatiguing one, and next morning with renewed spirits determines to +search immediately for employment. He does not much care what it is at +first, so that he earns something; for his purse feels considerably +lighter after the many demands upon it yesterday. Before an hour is +over, he finds himself engaged to a storekeeper at a rate of three +pounds a-week; his business being to load and unload drays, roll +casks, lift heavy goods, &c.; and here we will leave him, for once set +going he will soon find a better berth. If he have capital, it is +doubtless safely deposited in the Bank until a little acquaintance with +the colonies enables him to invest it judiciously; and meanwhile, if wise, +he will spend every shilling as though it were his last; but if his +capital consists only of the trifle in his purse, no matter, the way he +is setting to work will soon rectify that deficiency, and he stands a +good chance in a few years of returning to England a comparatively +wealthy man. + +To those of my own sex who desire to emigrate to Australia, I say do so +by all means, if you can go under suitable protection, possess +good health, are not fastidious or "fine-lady-like," can milk cows, +churn butter, cook a good damper, and mix a pudding. The worst risk you +run is that of getting married, and finding yourself treated with +twenty times the respect and consideration you may meet with in +England. Here (as far as number goes) women beat the "lords of +creation;" in Australia it is the reverse, and, there we may be pretty +sure of having our own way. + +But to those ladies who cannot wait upon themselves, and whose fair +fingers are unused to the exertion of doing anything useful, my advice +is, for your own sakes remain at home. Rich or poor, it is all the +same; for those who can afford to give 40 pounds a-year to a female +servant will scarcely know whether to be pleased or not at the +acquisition, so idle and impertinent are they; scold them, and they will +tell you that "next week Tom, or Bill, or Harry will be back from the +diggings, and then they'll be married, and wear silk dresses, and be as +fine a lady as yourself;" and with some such words will coolly dismiss +themselves from your service, leaving their poor unfortunate mistress +uncertain whether to be glad of their departure or ready to cry because +there's nothing prepared for dinner, and she knows not what to set +about first. + +For those who wish to invest small sums in goods for Australia, boots +and shoes, cutlery, flash jewellery, watches, pistols (particularly +revolvers), gunpowder, fancy articles, cheap laces, and baby-linen +offer immense profits. + +The police in Victoria is very inefficient, both in the towns and on +the roads. Fifteen persons were stopped during the same afternoon +whilst travelling on the highway between Melbourne and St. Kilda. They +were robbed, and tied to trees within sight of each other--this too in +broad daylight. On the roads to the diggings it is still worse; and no +one intending to turn digger should leave England without a good supply +of fire-arms. In less than one week more than a dozen robberies +occurred between Kyneton and Forest Creek, two of which terminated in +murder. The diggings themselves are comparatively safe--quite as much +so as Melbourne itself--and there is a freemasonry in the bush which +possesses an irresistible charm for adventurous bachelors, and causes +them to prefer the risk of bushrangers to witnessing the dreadful +scenes that are daily and hourly enacting in a colonial town. Life in +the bush is wild, free and independent. Healthy exercise, fine scenery, +and a clear and buoyant atmosphere, maintain an excitement of the +spirits and a sanguineness of temperament peculiar to this sort of +existence; and many are the pleasant evenings, enlivened with the gay +jest or cheerful song, which are passed around the bush fires of +Australia. + +The latest accounts from the diggings speak of them most encouragingly. +Out of a population of 200,000 (which is calculated to be the number of +the present inhabitants of Victoria), half are said to be at the +gold-fields, and the average earnings are still reckoned at +nearly an ounce per man per week. Ballarat is again rising into favour, +and its riches are being more fully developed. The gold there is more +unequally distributed than at Mount Alexander, and therefore the +proportion of successful to unsuccessful diggers is not so great as at +the latter place. But then the individual gains are in some cases +greater. The labour is also more severe than at the Mount or Bendigo, +as the gold lies deeper, and more numerous trials have to be made +before the deposits are struck upon. + +The Ovens is admitted to be a rich gold-field, but the work there is +severely laborious, owing to a super-abundance of water. + +The astonishing mineral wealth of Mount Alexander is evidenced by the +large amounts which it continues to yield, notwithstanding the immense +quantities that have already been taken from it. The whole country in +that neighbourhood appears to be more or less auriferous. + +Up to the close of last year the total supposed amount of gold procured +from the Victoria diggings, is 3,998,324 ounces, which, when calculated +at the average English value of 4 pounds an ounce, is worth nearly SIXTEEN +MILLIONS STERLING. One-third of this is distinctly authenticated as +having come down by escort during the three last mouths of 1852. + +In Melbourne the extremes of wealth and poverty meet, and many are the +anecdotes of the lavish expenditure of successful diggers that are +circulated throughout the town. I shall only relate two which fell +under my own observation. + +Having occasion to make a few purchases in the linen drapery line, I +entered a good establishment in Collins Street for that purpose. It was +before noon, for later in the day the shops are so full that to get a +trifling order attended to would be almost a miracle. There was only +one customer in the shop, who was standing beside the counter, gazing +with extreme dissatisfaction upon a quantity of goods of various +colours and materials that lay there for his inspection. He was +a rough-looking customer enough, and the appearance of his hands gave +strong indication that the pickaxe and spade were among the last tools +he had handled. + +"It's a SHINY thing that I want," he was saying as I entered. + +"These are what we should call shining goods," said the shopman, as he +held up the silks, alpacas, &c., to the light. + +"They're not the SHINY sort that I want," pursued the digger, +half-doggedly, half-angrily. "I'll find another shop; I guess you won't +show your best goods to me--you think, mayhap, I can't pay for them--but +I can, though," and he laid a note for fifty pounds upon the counter, +adding, "maybe you'll show me some SHINY stuff now!" + +Unable to comprehend the wishes of his customer, the shopman called to +his assistance the master of the establishment, who being, I suppose, +of quicker apprehension, placed some satins before him. + +"I thought the paper would help you find it. I want a gown for my +missus. What's the price?" + +"Twenty yards at one-ten--thirty pounds. That do, Sir?" + +"No; not good enough!" was the energetic reply. + +The shrewd shopkeeper quickly fathomed his customer's desires, and now +displayed before him a rich orange-coloured satin, which elicited an +exclamation of delight. + +"Twenty-five yards--couldn't sell less, it's a remnant--at three pounds +the yard." + +"That's the go!" interrupted the digger, throwing some more notes upon +the counter. "My missus was married in a cotton gown, and now she'll +have a real gold 'un!" + +And seizing the satin from the shopkeeper, he twisted up the portion +that had been unrolled for his inspection, placed the whole under his +arm, and triumphantly walked out of the shop, little thinking how he +had been cheated. + +"A 'lucky digger' that," observed the shopman, as he attended to my +wants. + +I could not forbear a smile, for I pictured to myself the digger's wife +mixing a damper with the sleeves of her dazzling satin dress tucked up +above her elbows. + +A few days after, a heavy shower drove me to take shelter in a +pastry-cook's, where, under the pretence of eating a bun, I escaped a +good drenching. Hardly had I been seated five minutes, when a +sailor-looking personage entered, and addressed the shopwoman with: +"I'm agoing to be spliced to-morrow, young woman; show us some large +wedding-cakes." + +The largest (which was but a small one) was placed before him, and +eighteen pounds demanded for it. He laid down four five-pound notes +upon the counter, and taking up the cake, told her to "keep the change +to buy ribbons with." + +"Pleasant to have plenty of gold-digging friends," I remarked, by way +of saying something. + +"Not a friend," said she, smiling. "I never saw him before. I expect +he's only a successful digger." + +Turn we now to the darker side of this picture. + +My favourite walk, whilst in Melbourne, was over Prince's Bridge, and +along the road to Liardet's Beach, thus passing close to the canvas +settlement, called Little Adelaide. One day, about a week before we +embarked for England, I took my accustomed walk in this direction, and +as I passed the tents, was much struck by the appearance of a little +girl, who, with a large pitcher in her arms, came to procure some water +from a small stream beside the road. Her dress, though clean and neat, +bespoke extreme poverty; and her countenance had a wan, sad expression +upon it which would have touched the most indifferent beholder, and +left an impression deeper even than that produced by her extreme though +delicate beauty. + +I made a slight attempt at acquaintanceship by assisting to +fill her pitcher, which was far too heavy, when full of water, for so +slight a child to carry, and pointing to the rise of ground on which +the tents stood, I inquired if she lived among them. + +She nodded her head in token of assent. + +"And have you been long here? and do you like this new country?" I +continued, determined to hear if her voice was as pleasing as her +countenance. + +"No!" she answered quickly; "we starve here. There was plenty of food +when we were in England;" and then her childish reserve giving way, she +spoke more fully of her troubles, and a sad though a common tale it +was. + +Some of the particulars I learnt afterwards. Her father had held an +appointment under Government, and had lived upon the income derived +from it for some years, when he was tempted to try and do better in the +colonies. His wife (the daughter of a clergyman, well educated, and who +before her marriage had been a governess) accompanied him with +their three children. On arriving in Melbourne (which was about three +months previous), he found that situations equal in value, according to +the relative prices of food and lodging, to that which he had thrown up +in England were not so easily procured as he had been led to expect. +Half desperate, he went to the diggings, leaving his wife with little +money, and many promises of quick remittances of gold by the escort. +But week followed week, and neither remittances nor letters came. They +removed to humbler lodgings, every little article of value was +gradually sold, for, unused to bodily labour, or even to sit for hours +at the needle, the deserted wife could earn but little. Then sickness +came; there were no means of paying for medical advice, and one child +died. After this, step by step, they became poorer, until half a tent +in Little Adelaide was the only refuge left. + +As we reached it, the little girl drew aside the canvas, and partly +invited me to enter. I glanced in; it was a dismal sight. In +one corner lay the mother, a blanket her only protection from the humid +soil, and cowering down beside her was her other child. I could not +enter; it seemed like a heartless intrusion upon misery; so, slipping +the contents of my purse (which were unfortunately only a few +shillings) into the little, girl's hand, I hurried away, scarcely +waiting to notice the smile that thanked me so eloquently. On arriving +at home, I found that my friends were absent, and being detained by +business, they did not return till after dusk, so it was impossible for +that day to afford them any assistance. Early next morning we took a +little wine and other trifling articles with us, and proceeded to +Little Adelaide. On entering the tent, we found that the sorrows of the +unfortunate mother were at an end; privation, ill health and anxiety had +claimed their victim. Her husband sat beside the corpse, and the golden +nuggets, which in his despair he had flung upon the ground, formed a +painful contrast to the scene of poverty and death. + +The first six weeks of his career at the diggings had been most +unsuccessful, and he had suffered as much from want as his unhappy +wife. Then came a sudden change of fortune, and in two weeks more he +was comparatively rich. He hastened immediately to Melbourne, and for a +whole week had sought his family in vain. At length, on the preceding +evening, he found them only in time to witness the last moments of his +wife. + +Sad as this history may appear, it is not so sad as many, many others; +for often, instead of returning with gold, the digger is never heard of +more. + +In England many imagine that the principal labour at the diggings +consists in stooping to pick up the lumps of gold which lie upon the +ground at their feet, only waiting for some one to take possession of +them. These people, when told of holes being dug in depths of from +seven to forty feet before arriving at the desired metal, look upon +such statements as so many myths, or fancy they are fabricated by the +lucky gold-finders to deter too many others from coming to take +a share of the precious spoil. There was a passenger on board the +vessel which took me to Australia, who held some such opinions as +these, and, although in other respects a sensible man, he used +seriously to believe that every day that we were delayed by contrary +winds he could have been picking up fifty or a hundred pounds worth of +gold had he but been at the diggings. He went to Bendigo the third day +after we landed, stayed there a fortnight, left it in disgust, and +returned to England immediately--poorer than he had started. + +This is not an isolated case. Young men of sanguine dispositions read +the startling amounts of gold shipped from the colonies, they think of +the "John Bull Nugget" and other similar prizes, turn a deaf ear when +you speak of blanks, and determinately overlook the vast amount of +labour which the gold diggings have consumed. Whenever I meet with this +class of would-be emigrants, the remarks of an old digger, which I once +over heard, recur to my mind. The conversation at the time was +turned upon the subject of the many young men flocking from the "old +country" to the gold-fields, and their evident unfitness for them. +"Every young man before paying his passage money," said he, "should take +a few days' spell at well-sinking in England; if he can stand that +comfortably, the diggings won't hurt him." + +Many are sadly disappointed on arriving in Victoria, at being unable to +invest their capital or savings in the purchase of about a hundred +acres of land, sufficient for a small farm. I have referred to this +subject before, but cannot resist adding some facts which bear upon it. + +By a return of the LAND SALES of Victoria, from 1837 to 1851, it +appears that 380,000 acres of land were sold in the whole colony; and +the sum realized by Government was 700,000 pounds. In a return published +in 1849, it is stated that there were THREE persons who each held singly +more land in their own hands than had been sold to all the rest of the +colony in fourteen years, for which they paid the sum of 30 pounds +each per annum. Yet, whilst 700,000 pounds is realized by the sale of +land, and not 100 pounds a-year gained by LETTING three times the +quantity, the Colonial Government persists in the latter course, in spite +of the reiterated disapprobation of the colonists themselves; and by one +of the last gazettes of Governor La Trobe, he has ordered 681,700 acres, +or 1,065 square miles, to be given over to the squatters. The result of +this is, that many emigrants landing in Victoria are compelled to turn +their steps towards the sister colony of Adelaide. There was a family +who landed in Melbourne whilst I was there. It consisted of the +parents, and several grown-up sons and daughters. The father had held a +small tenant farm in England, and having saved a few hundreds, +determined to invest it in Australian land. He brought out with him +many agricultural implements, an iron house, &c.; and on his arrival +found, to his dismay, that no less than 640 acres of crown lands could +be sold, at a time, at the upset price of one pound an acre. This was +more than his capital could afford, and they left for Adelaide. The +expenses of getting his goods to and from the ships, of storing them, +of supporting his family while in Melbourne, and of paying their +passage to Adelaide, amounted almost to 100 pounds. Thus he lost nearly a +fourth of his capital, and Victoria a family who would have made good +colonists. + +Much is done now-a-days to assist emigration, but far greater exertions +are needed before either the demand for labour in the colonies or the +over-supply of it in England can be exhausted. Pass down the best +streets of Melbourne: you see one or two good shops or houses, and on +either side an empty spot or a mass of rubbish. The ground has been +bought, the plans for the proposed budding are all ready. Then why not +commence?--there are no workmen. Bricks are wanted, and 15 pounds a +thousand is offered; carpenters are advertized for at 8 pounds a week; yet +the building makes no progress--there are no workmen. Go down towards the +Yarra, and an unfinished Church will attract attention. Are funds wanting +for its completion? No. Thousands were subscribed in one day, and would +be again were it necessary; but that building, like every other, is +stopped for lack of workmen. In vain the bishop himself published an +appeal to the various labourers required offering the very highest +wages; others offered higher wages still, and the church (up to the +time I left Victoria) remained unfinished. And yet, whilst labour +is so scarce, so needed in the colonies, there are thousands in our own +country ABLE AND WILLING TO WORK, whose lives here are one of prolonged +privation, whose eyes are never gladdened by the sight of nature, who +inhale no purer atmosphere than the tainted air of the dark courts and +dismal cellars in which they herd. Send them to the colonies--food and +pure air would at least be theirs--and much misery would be turned into +positive happiness. + +I heard of a lady who every year sent out a whole family from +the poor but hard-working classes to the colonies (it was through one +of the objects of her thoughtful benevolence that this annual act +became known to me), and what happiness must it bring when she reflects +on the heartfelt blessings that are showered upon her from the far-off +land of Australia. Surely, among the rich and the influential, there +are many who, out of the abundance of their wealth, could "go and do +likewise." + + + +THE END. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Lady's Visit to the Gold Diggings of +Australia in 1852-53., by Mrs. Charles (Ellen) Clacey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LADY'S VISIT TO GOLD DIGGINGS *** + +***** This file should be named 4054.txt or 4054.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/5/4054/ + +Produced by Col. Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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SOUTH AUSTRALIA +Chapter XVI. MELBOURNE AGAIN +Chapter XVII. HOMEWARD BOUND +Chapter XVIII. CONCLUSION +APPENDIX. WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE? + + + + + + +Chapter I. + + + +INTRODUCTORY REMARKS + + +It may be deemed presumptuous that one of my age and sex should venture +to give to the public an account of personal adventures in a land which +has so often been descanted upon by other and abler pens; but when I +reflect on the many mothers, wives, and sisters in England, whose +hearts are ever longing for information respecting the dangers and +privations to which their relatives at the antipodes are exposed, +I cannot but hope that the presumption of my undertaking may be +pardoned in consideration of the pleasure which an accurate description +of some of the Australian Gold Fields may perhaps afford to many; and +although the time of my residence in the colonies was short, I had the +advantage (not only in Melbourne, but whilst in the bush) of constant +intercourse with many experienced diggers and old colonists--thus +having every facility for acquiring information respecting Victoria and +the other colonies. + +It was in the beginning of April, 185-, that the excitement +occasioned by the published accounts of the Victoria "Diggings," +induced my brother to fling aside his Homer and Euclid for the various +"Guides" printed for the benefit of the intending gold-seeker, or to +ponder over the shipping columns of the daily papers. The love of +adventure must be contagious, for three weeks after (so rapid were our +preparations) found myself accompanying him to those auriferous +regions. The following pages will give an accurate detail of my +adventures there--in a lack of the marvellous will consist their +principal faults but not even to please would I venture to turn +uninteresting truth into agreeable fiction. Of the few statistics which +occur, I may safely say, as of the more personal portions, that they +are strictly true. + + + + +Chapter II. + + + +THE VOYAGE OUT + + +Everything was ready--boxes packed, tinned, and corded; farewells +taken, and ourselves whirling down by rail to Gravesend--too much +excited--too full of the future to experience that sickening of the +heart, that desolation of the feelings, which usually accompanies an +expatriation, however voluntary, from the dearly loved shores of one's +native land. Although in the cloudy month of April, the sun shone +brightly on the masts of our bonny bark, which lay in full sight of the +windows of the "Old Falcon," where we had taken up our temporary +quarters. The sea was very rough, but as we were anxious to get +on board without farther delay, we entrusted our valuable lives in a +four-oared boat, despite the dismal prognostications of our worthy +host. A pleasant row that was, at one moment covered over with +salt-water--the next riding on the top of a wave, ten times the size +of our frail conveyance--then came a sudden concussion--in veering +our rudder smashed into a smaller boat, which immediately filled and +sank, and our rowers disheartened at this mishap would go no farther. +The return was still rougher--my face smarted dreadfully from the +cutting splashes of the salt-water; they contrived, however, to land us +safely at the "Old Falcon," though in a most pitiable plight; charging +only a sovereign for this delightful trip--very moderate, considering +the number of salt-water baths they had given us gratis. In the evening +a second trial proved more successful, and we reached our vessel +safely. + +A first night on board ship has in it something very strange, and the +first awakening in the morning is still more so. To find oneself in a +space of some six feet by eight, instead of a good-sized room, and +lying in a cot, scarce wide enough to turn round in, as a +substitute for a four-post bedstead, reminds you in no very agreeable +manner that you have exchanged the comforts of Old England for the +"roughing it" of a sea life. The first sound that awoke me was the +"cheerily" song of the sailors, as the anchor was heaved--not again, +we trusted, to be lowered till our eyes should rest on the waters of +Port Philip. And then the cry of "raise tacks and sheets" (which I, in +nautical ignorance, interpreted "hay-stacks and sheep") sent many a +sluggard from their berths to bid a last farewell to the banks of the +Thames. + +In the afternoon we parted company with our steam-tug, and next +morning, whilst off the Isle of Wight, our pilot also took his +departure. Sea-sickness now became the fashion, but, as I cannot speak +from experience of its sensations, I shall altogether decline the +subject. On Friday, the 30th, we sighted Stark Point; and as the last +speck of English land faded away in the distance, an intense feeling of +misery crept over me, as I reflected that perchance I had left those +most dear to return to them no more. But I forget; a description of +private feelings is, to uninterested readers, only so much +twaddle, besides being more egotistical than even an account of +personal adventures could extenuate; so, with the exception of a few +extracts from my "log," I shall jump at once from the English Channel +to the more exciting shores of Victoria. + +WEDNESDAY, MAY 5, lat. 45 degrees 57 minutes N., long. 11 degrees 45 +minutes W.--Whilst off the Bay of Biscay, for the first time I had the +pleasure of seeing the phosphoric light in the water, and the effect was +indeed too beautiful to describe. I gazed again and again, and, as the +darkness above became more dense, the silence of evening more profound, +and the moving lights beneath more brilliant, I could have believed them +the eyes of the Undines, who had quitted their cool grottos beneath the +sea to gaze on the daring ones who were sailing above them. At times one +of these stars of the ocean would seem to linger around our vessel, as +though loth to leave the admiring eyes that watched its glittering +progress.* * * * * + +SUNDAY, 9, lat. 37 degrees 53 minutes N., long. 15 degrees 32 minutes W.-- +Great excitement throughout the ship. Early in the morning a +homeward-bound sail hove in sight, and as the sea was very calm, our +captain kindly promised to lower a boat and send letters by her. What a +scene then commenced; nothing but scribes and writing-desks met the view, +and nought was heard but the scratching of pens, and energetic demands for +foreign letter-paper, vestas, or sealing-wax; then came a rush on deck, to +witness the important packet delivered to the care of the first mate, +and watch the progress of the little bark that was to bear among so +many homes the glad tidings of our safety. On she came--her stunsails +set--her white sails glittering in the sun--skimming like a sea-bird +over the waters. She proved to be the Maltese schooner 'Felix,' bound +for Bremen. Her captain treated the visitors from our ship with the +greatest politeness, promised to consign our letters to the first pilot +he should encounter off the English coast, and sent his very last +oranges as a present to the ladies, for which we sincerely thanked him; +the increasing heat of the weather made them acceptable indeed. + +WEDNESDAY, 12, lat. 33 degrees 19 minutes N., long. 17 degrees 30 +minutes W.--At about noon we sighted Madeira. At first it appeared little +more than a dark cloud above the horizon; gradually the sides of the rocks +became clearly discernible, then the wind bore us onward, and soon all +traces of the sunny isle were gone. + +FRIDAY, 28, lat. 4 degrees 2 minutes N., long. 21 degrees 30 minutes W.-- +Another opportunity of sending letters, but as this was the second time of +so doing, the excitement was proportionately diminished. This vessel was +bound for the port of Liverpool, from the coast of Africa; her cargo (so +said those of our fellow-travellers who boarded her), consisted of ebony +and gold-dust, her only passengers being monkeys and parrots. + +SUNDAY, JUNE 6, long. 24 degrees 38 minutes W.--Crossed the Line, to the +great satisfaction of all on board, as we had been becalmed more than a +week, and were weary of gazing upon the unruffled waters around us, or +watching the sails as they idly flapped to and fro. Chess, backgammon, +books and cards, had ceased to beguile the hours away, and the only +amusement left was lowering a boat and rowing about within a short +distance of the ship, but this (even by those not pulling at the oars) +was considered too fatiguing work, for a tropical sun was above us, and +the heat was most intense. Our only resource was to give ourselves up +to a sort of DOLCE FAR NIENTE existence, and lounge upon the +deck, sipping lemonade or lime-juice, beneath a large awning which +extended from the fore to the mizen masts. + +TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, lat. 39 degrees 28 minutes S., long. 136 degrees 31 +minutes E.--Early this morning one of the sailors died, and before noon +the last services of the Church of England were read over his body; this +was the first and only death that occurred during our long passage, and +the solemnity of committing his last remains to their watery grave cast a +saddening influence over the most thoughtless. I shall never forget the +moment when the sewn-up hammock, with a gaily coloured flag wrapped round +it, was launched into the deep; those who can witness with indifference a +funeral on land, would, I think, find it impossible to resist the +thrilling awe inspired by such an event at sea. + +FRIDAY, 20, lat. 38 degrees 57 minutes S., long. 140 degrees 5 minutes +E.--Sighted Moonlight Head, the next day Cape Otway; and in the afternoon +of Sunday, the 22nd, we entered the Heads, and our pilot came on board. He +was a smart, active fellow, and immediately anchored us within the bay +(a heavy gale brewing); and then, after having done colonial justice to a +substantial dinner, he edified us with the last Melbourne news. "Not a +spare room or bed to be had--no living at all under a pound a-day-- +every one with ten fingers making ten to twenty pounds a-week." "Then +of course no one goes to the diggings?" "Oh, that pays better still-- +the gold obliged to be quarried--a pound weight of no value." The +excitement that evening can scarcely be imagined, but it somewhat +abated next morning on his telling us to diminish his accounts some 200 +per cent. + +MONDAY, 23.--The wind high, and blowing right against us. Compelled to +remain at anchor, only too thankful to be in such safe quarters. + +TUESDAY, 24.--Got under weigh at half-past seven in the morning, and +passed the wrecks of two vessels, whose captains had attempted to come +in without a pilot, rather than wait for one--the increased number of +vessels arriving, causing the pilots to be frequently all engaged. The +bay, which is truly splendid, was crowded with shipping. In a few hours +our anchor was lowered for the last time--boats were put off +towards our ship from Liardet's Beach--we were lowered into the first +that came alongside--a twenty minutes' pull to the landing-place-- +another minute, and we trod the golden shores of Victoria. + + + + +Chapter III. + + + +STAY IN MELBOURNE + + +At last we are in Australia. Our feet feel strange as they tread upon +TERRA FIRMA, and our SEA-LEGS (to use a sailor's phrase) are not so +ready to leave us after a four months' service, as we should have +anticipated; but it matters little, for we are in the colonies, walking +with undignified, awkward gait, not on a fashionable promenade, but +upon a little wooden pier. + +The first sounds that greet our ears are the noisy tones of some +watermen, who are loitering on the building of wooden logs and boards, +which we, as do the good people of Victoria, dignify with the +undeserved title of PIER. There they stand in their waterproof caps and +skins--tolerably idle and exceedingly independent--with one eye on +the look out for a fare, and the other cast longingly towards the open +doors of Liardet's public-house, which is built a few yards from the +landing-place, and alongside the main road to Melbourne. + +"Ah, skipper! times isn't as they used to was," shouted one, addressing +the captain of one of the vessels then lying in the bay, who was rowing +himself to shore, with no other assistant or companion than a +sailor-boy. The captain, a well-built, fine-looking specimen of an +English seaman, merely laughed at this impromptu salutation. + +"I say, skipper, I don't quite like that d----d stroke of yours." + +No answer; but, as if completely deaf to these remarks, as well as the +insulting tone in which they were delivered, the "skipper" continued +giving his orders to his boy, and then leisurely ascended the steps. He +walked straight up to the waterman, who was lounging against the +railing. + +"So, my fine fellow, you didn't quite admire that stroke of +mine. Now, I've another stroke that I think you'll admire still less," +and with one blow he sent him reeling against the railing on the +opposite side. + +The waterman slowly recovered his equilibrium, muttering, "that was a +safe dodge, as the gentleman knew he was the heaviest man of the two." + +"Then never let your tongue say what your fist can't defend," was the +cool retort, as another blow sent him staggering to his original place, +amidst the unrestrained laughter of his companions, whilst the captain +unconcernedly walked into Liardet's, whither we also betook ourselves, +not a little surprised and amused by this our first introduction to +colonial customs and manners. + +The fact is, the watermen regard the masters of the ships in the bay as +sworn enemies to their business; many are runaway sailors, and +therefore, I suppose, have a natural antipathy that way; added to +which, besides being no customers themselves, the "skippers," by the +loan of their boats, often save their friends from the exorbitant +charges these watermen levy. + +Exorbitant they truly are. Not a boat would they put off for the +nearest ship in the bay for less than a pound, and before I quitted +those regions, two and three times that sum was often demanded for only +one passenger. We had just paid at the rate of only three shillings and +sixpence each, but this trifling charge was in consideration of the +large party--more than a dozen--who had left our ship in the same +boat together. + +Meanwhile we have entered Liardet's EN ATTENDANT the Melbourne omnibus, +some of our number, too impatient to wait longer, had already started +on foot. We were shown into a clean, well-furnished sitting-room, with +mahogany dining-table and chairs, and a showy glass over the +mantelpicce. An English-looking barmaid entered. "Would the company +like some wine or spirits?" Some one ordered sherry, of which I only +remember that it was vile trash at eight shillings a bottle. + +And now the cry of "Here's the bus," brought us quickly outside again, +where we found several new arrivals also waiting for it. I had hoped, +from the name, or rather misname, of the conveyance, to gladden my eyes +with the sight of something civilized. Alas, for my disappointment! +There stood a long, tumble-to-pieces-looking waggon, not covered +in, with a plank down each side to sit upon, and a miserable narrow +plank it was. Into this vehicle were crammed a dozen people and an +innumerable host of portmanteaus, large and small, carpet-bags, +baskets, brown-paper parcels, bird-cage and inmate, &c., all of which, +as is generally the case, were packed in a manner the most calculated +to contribute the largest amount of inconvenience to the live portion +of the cargo. And to drag this grand affair into Melbourne were +harnessed thereto the most wretched-looking objects in the shape of +horses that I had ever beheld. + +A slight roll tells us we are off. + +"And is THIS the beautiful scenery of Australia?" was my first +melancholy reflection. Mud and swamp--swamp and mud--relieved here +and there by some few trees which looked as starved and miserable as +ourselves. The cattle we passed appeared in a wretched condition, and +the human beings on the road seemed all to belong to one family, so +truly Vandemonian was the cast of their countenances. + +"The rainy season's not over," observed the driver, in an +apologetic tone. Our eyes and uneasy limbs most FEELINGLY corroborated +his statement, for as we moved along at a foot-pace, the rolling of the +omnibus, owing to the deep ruts and heavy soil, brought us into most +unpleasant contact with the various packages before-mentioned. On we +went towards Melbourne--now stopping for the unhappy horses to take +breath--then passing our pedestrian messmates, and now arriving at a +small specimen of a swamp; and whilst they (with trowsers tucked high +above the knee and boots well saturated) step, slide and tumble +manfully through it, we give a fearful roll to the left, ditto, ditto +to the right, then a regular stand-still, or perhaps, by way of +variety, are all but jolted over the animals' heads, till at length all +minor considerations of bumps and bruises are merged in the anxiety to +escape without broken bones. + +"The Yarra," said the conductor. I looked straight ahead, and +innocently asked "Where?" for I could only discover a tract of marsh or +swamp, which I fancy must have resembled the fens of Lincolnshire, as +they were some years ago, before draining was introduced into +that county. Over Princes Bridge we now passed, up Swanston Street, +then into Great Bourke Street, and now we stand opposite the +Post-office--the appointed rendezvous with the walkers, who are there +awaiting us. Splashed, wet and tired, and also, I must confess, very +cross, right thankful was I to be carried over the dirty road and be +safely deposited beneath the wooden portico outside the Post-office. +Our ride to Melbourne cost us only half-a-crown a piece, and a shilling +for every parcel. The distance we had come was between two and three +miles. + +The non-arrival of the mail-steamer left us now no other care save the +all-important one of procuring food and shelter. Scouts were +accordingly despatched to the best hotels; they returned with long +faces--"full." The second-rate, and in fact every respectable inn and +boarding or lodging-house were tried but with no better success. Here +and there a solitary bed could be obtained, but for our digging party +entire, which consisted of my brother, four shipmates, and myself, no +accommodation could be procured, and we wished, if possible, to +keep together. "It's a case," ejaculated one, casting his eyes to the +slight roof above us as if calculating what sort of night shelter it +would afford. At this moment the two last searchers approached, their +countenances not quite so woe-begone as before. "Well?" exclaimed we +all in chorus, as we surrounded them, too impatient to interrogate at +greater length. Thank Heavens! they had been successful! The +house-keeper of a surgeon, who with his wife had just gone up to Forest +Creek, would receive us to board and lodge for thirty shillings a week +each; but as the accommodation was of the indifferent order, it was not +as yet UNE AFFAIRE ARRANGEE. On farther inquiry, we found the +indifferent accommodation consisted in their being but one small +sleeping-room for the gentlemen, and myself to share the bed and +apartment of the temporary mistress. This was vastly superior to +gipsying in the dirty streets, so we lost no time in securing our new +berths, and ere very long, with appetites undiminished by these petty +anxieties, we did ample justice to the dinner which our really kind +hostess quickly placed before us. + +The first night on shore after so long a voyage could scarcely +seem otherwise than strange, one missed the eternal rocking at which so +many grumble on board ship. Dogs (Melbourne is full of them) kept up an +incessant barking; revolvers were cracking in all directions until +daybreak, giving one a pleasant idea of the state of society; and last, +not least, of these annoyances was one unmentionable to ears polite, +which would alone have sufficed to drive sleep away from poor wearied +me. How I envied my companion, as accustomed to these disagreeables, +she slept soundly by my side; but morning at length dawned, and I fell +into a refreshing slumber. + +The next few days were busy ones for all, though rather dismal to me, +as I was confined almost entirely within doors, owing to the awful +state of the streets; for in the colonies, at this season of the year, +one may go out prepared for fine weather, with blue sky above, and dry +under foot, and in less than an hour, should a COLONIAL shower come on, +be unable to cross some of the streets without a plank being placed +from the middle of the road to the pathway, or the alternative of +walking in water up to the knees. + +This may seem a doleful and overdrawn picture of my first +colonial experience, but we had arrived at a time when the colony +presented its worst aspect to a stranger. The rainy season had been +unusually protracted this year, in fact it was not yet considered +entirely over, and the gold mines had completely upset everything and +everybody, and put a stop to all improvements about the town or +elsewhere. + +Our party, on returning to the ship the day after our arrival, +witnessed the French-leave-taking of all her crew, who during the +absence of the captain, jumped overboard, and were quickly picked up +and landed by the various boats about. This desertion of the ships by +the sailors is an every-day occurrence; the diggings themselves, or the +large amount they could obtain for the run home from another master, +offer too many temptations. Consequently, our passengers had the +amusement of hauling up from the hold their different goods and +chattels; and so great was the confusion, that fully a week elapsed +before they were all got to shore. Meanwhile we were getting initiated +into colonial prices--money did indeed take to itself wings and fly +away. Fire-arms were at a premium; one instance will suffice--my +brother sold a six-barrelled revolver for which he had given +sixty shillings at Baker's, in Fleet Street, for sixteen pounds, and +the parting with it at that price was looked upon as a great favour. +Imagine boots, and they very second-rate ones, at four pounds a pair. +One of our between-deck passengers who had speculated with a small +capital of forty pounds in boots and cutlery, told me afterwards that +he had disposed of them the same evening he had landed, at a net profit +of ninety pounds--no trifling addition to a poor man's purse. Labour +was at a very high price, carpenters, boot and shoemakers, tailors, +wheelwrights, joiners, smiths, glaziers, and, in fact, all useful +trades, were earning from twenty to thirty shillings a day--the very +men working on the roads could get eleven shillings PER DIEM, and, many +a gentleman in this disarranged state of affairs, was glad to fling old +habits aside and turn his hand to whatever came readiest. I knew one in +particular, whose brother is at this moment serving as colonel in the +army in India, a man more fitted for a gay London life than a residence +in the colonies. The diggings were too dirty and uncivilized for his +taste, his capital was quickly dwindling away beneath the +expenses of the comfortable life he led at one of the best hotels in +town, so he turned to what as a boy he had learnt for amusement, and +obtained an addition to his income of more than four hundred pounds a +year as house carpenter. In the morning you might see him trudging off +to his work, and before night might meet him at some ball or soiree +among the elite of Melbourne. + +I shall not attempt an elaborate description of the town of Melbourne, +or its neighbouring villages. A subject so often and well discussed +might almost be omitted altogether. The town is very well laid out; the +streets (which are all straight, running parallel with and across one +another) are very wide, but are incomplete, not lighted, and many are +unpaved. Owing to the want of lamps, few, except when full moon, dare +stir out after dark. Some of the shops are very fair; but the goods all +partake too largely of the flash order, for the purpose of suiting the +tastes of successful diggers, their wives and families; it is ludicrous +to see them in the shops--men who, before the gold-mines were +discovered, toiled hard for their daily bread, taking off half-a-dozen +thick gold rings from their fingers, and trying to pull on to +their rough, well-hardened hands the best white kids, to be worn at +some wedding party; whilst the wife, proud of the novel ornament, +descants on the folly of hiding them beneath such useless articles as +gloves. + +The two principal streets are Collins Street and Elizabeth Street. The +former runs east and west, the latter crossing it in the centre. +Melbourne is built on two hills, and the view from the top of Collins +Street East, is very striking on a fine day when well filled with +passengers and vehicles. Down the eye passes till it reaches Elizabeth +Street at the foot; then up again, and the moving mass seems like so +many tiny black specks in the distance, and the country beyond looks +but a little piece of green. A great deal of confusion arises from the +want of their names being painted on the corners of the streets: to a +stranger, this is particularly inconvenient, the more so, as being +straight, they appear all alike on first acquaintance. The confusion is +also increased by the same title, with slight variation, being applied +to so many, as, for instance, Collins Street East; Collins Street West; +Little Collins Street East; Little Collins Street West, &c. &c. +Churches and chapels for all sects and denominations meet the eye; but +the Established Church has, of all, the worst provision for its +members, only two small churches being as yet completed; and Sunday +after Sunday do numbers return from St. Peter's, unable to obtain even +standing room beneath the porch. For the gay, there are two circuses +and one theatre, where the "ladies" who frequent it smoke short +tobacco-pipes in the boxes and dress-circle. + +The country round is very pretty, particularly Richmond and +Collingwood; the latter will, I expect, soon become part of Melbourne +itself. It is situated at the fashionable--that is, EAST--end of +Melbourne, and the buildings of the city and this suburban village are +making rapid strides towards each other. Of Richmond, I may remark that +it does possess a "Star and Garter," though a very different affair to +its namesake at the antipodes, being only a small public-house. On the +shores of the bay, at nice driving distances, are Brighton and St. +Kilda. Two or three fall-to-pieces bathing-machines are at present the +only stock in trade of these watering-places; still, should some +would-be fashionables among my readers desire to emigrate, it may +gratify them to learn that they need not forego the pleasure of +visiting Brighton in the season. + +When I first arrived, as the weather was still very cold and wet, my +greatest source of discomfort arose from the want of coal-fires, and +the draughts, which are innumerable, owing to the slight manner in +which the houses are run up; in some the front entrance opens direct +into the sitting-rooms, very unpleasant, and entirely precluding the +"not at home" to an unwelcome visitor. Wood fires have at best but a +cheerless look, and I often longed for the bright blaze and merry +fireside of an English home. Firewood is sold at the rate of fifty +shillings for a good-sized barrow-full. + +The colonists (I here speak of the old-established ones) are naturally +very hospitable, and disposed to receive strangers with great kindness; +but the present ferment has made them forget everything in the glitter +of their own mines, and all comfort is laid aside; money is the idol, +and making it is the one mania which absorbs every other thought. + +The walking inhabitants are of themselves a study: glance into +the streets--all nations, classes, and costumes are represented there. +Chinamen, with pigtails and loose trowsers; Aborigines, with a solitary +blanket flung over them; Vandemonian pickpockets, with cunning eyes and +light fingers--all, in truth, from the successful digger in his blue +serge shirt, and with green veil still hanging round his wide-awake, to +the fashionably-attired, newly-arrived "gent" from London, who stares +around him in amazement and disgust. You may see, and hear too, some +thoroughly colonial scenes in the streets. Once, in the middle of the +day, when passing up Elizabeth Street, I heard the unmistakeable sound +of a mob behind, and as it was gaining upon me, I turned into the +enclosed ground in front of the Roman Catholic cathedral, to keep out +of the way of the crowd. A man had been taken up for horse-stealing and +a rare ruffianly set of both sexes were following the prisoner and the +two policemen who had him in charge. "If but six of ye were of my +mind," shouted one, "it's this moment you'd release him." The crowd +took the hint, and to it they set with right good will, yelling, +swearing, and pushing, with awful violence. The owner of the +stolen horse got up a counter demonstration, and every few yards, the +procession was delayed by a trial of strength between the two parties. +Ultimately the police conquered; but this is not always the case, and +often lives are lost and limbs broken in the struggle, so weak is the +force maintained by the colonial government for the preservation of +order. + +Another day, when passing the Post-office, a regular tropical shower of +rain came on rather suddenly, and I hastened up to the platform for +shelter. As I stood there, looking out into Great Bourke Street, a man +and, I suppose, his wife passed by. He had a letter in his hand for the +post; but as the pathway to the receiving-box looked very muddy, he +made his companion take it to the box, whilst he himself, from beneath +his umbrella, complacently watched her getting wet through. "Colonial +politeness," thought I, as the happy couple walked on. + +Sometimes a jovial wedding-party comes dashing through the streets; +there they go, the bridegroom with one arm round his lady's waist, the +other raising a champagne-bottle to his lips; the gay vehicles +that follow contain company even more unrestrained, and from them +noisier demonstrations of merriment may be heard. These diggers' +weddings are all the rage, and bridal veils, white kid gloves, and, +above all, orange blossoms are generally most difficult to procure at +any price. + +At times, you may see men, half-mad, throwing sovereigns, like +halfpence, out of their pockets into the streets; and I once saw a +digger, who was looking over a large quantity of bank-notes, +deliberately tear to pieces and trample in the mud under his feet every +soiled or ragged one he came to, swearing all the time at the +gold-brokers for "giving him dirty paper money for pure Alexander gold; +he wouldn't carry dirt in his pocket; not he; thank God! he'd plenty to +tear up and spend too." + +Melbourne is very full of Jews; on a Saturday, some of the streets are +half closed. There are only two pawnbrokers in the town. + +The most thriving trade there, is keeping an hotel or public-house, +which always have a lamp before their doors. These at night serve as a +beacon to the stranger to keep as far from them as possible, +they being, with few exceptions, the resort, after dark, of the most +ruffianly characters. + + * * * * * + +On the 2nd of September, the long-expected mail steamer arrived, and +two days after we procured our letters from the Post-office. I may here +remark, that the want of proper management in this department is the +greatest cause of inconvenience to fresh arrivals, and to the +inhabitants of Melbourne generally. There is but ONE SMALL WINDOW, +whence letters directed to lie at the office are given out; and as the +ships from England daily discharged their living cargoes into +Melbourne, the crowd round this inefficient delivering-place rendered +getting one's letters the work, not of hours, but days. Newspapers, +particularly pictorial ones, have, it would appear, a remarkable +facility for being lost EN ROUTE. Several numbers of the "Illustrated +London News" had been sent me, and, although the letters posted with +them arrived in safety, the papers themselves never made their +appearance. I did hear that, when addressed to an uncolonial name, and +with no grander direction than the Post-office itself, the +clerks are apt to apropriate them--this is, perhaps, only a wee bit of +Melbourne scandal. + +The arrival of our letters from England left nothing now to detain us, +and made us all anxious to commence our trip to the diggings, although +the roads were in an awful condition. Still we would delay no longer, +and the bustle of preparation began. Stores of flour, tea, and sugar, +tents and canvas, camp-ovens, cooking utensils, tin plates and +pannikins, opossum rugs and blankets, drays, carts and horses, cradles, +&c. &c., had to be looked at, bought and paid for. + +On board ship, my brother had joined himself to a party of four young +men, who had decided to give the diggings a trial. Four other of our +shipmates had also joined themselves into a digging-party, and when +they heard of our intended departure, proposed travelling up together +and separating on our arrival. This was settled, and a proposal made +that between the two sets they should raise funds to purchase a dray +and horses, and make a speculation in flour, tea, &c., on which an +immense profit was being made at the diggings. It would also +afford the convenience of taking up tents, cradles, and other articles +impossible to carry up without. The dray cost one hundred pounds, and +the two strong cart-horses ninety and one hundred pounds respectively. +This, with the goods themselves, and a few sundries in the shape of +harness and cords, made only a venture of about fifty pounds a-piece. +While these arrangements were rapidly progressing, a few other parties +wished to join ours for safety on the road, which was agreed to, and +the day fixed upon for the departure was the 7th of September. Every +one, except myself, was to walk, and we furthermore determined to "camp +out" as much as possible, and thus avoid the vicinity of the inns and +halting-places on the way, which are frequently the lurking-places of +thieves and bushrangers. + + * * * * * + +On the Sunday previous to the day on which our journey was to commence, +I had a little adventure, which pleased me at the time, though, but for +the sequel, not worth mentioning here. I had walked with my brother and +a friend to St. Peter's Church; but we were a few minutes behind +time, and therefore could find no unoccupied seat. Thus disappointed, +we strolled over Princes Bridge on to the other side of the Yarra. +Between the bridge and the beach, on the south side of the river, is a +little city of tents, called Little Adelaide. They were inhabited by a +number of families, that the rumour of the Victoria gold-mines had +induced to leave South Australia, and whose finances were unequal to +the high prices in Melbourne. + +Government levies a tax of five shillings a week on each tent, built +upon land as wild and barren as the bleakest common in England. We did +not wander this morning towards Little Adelaide; but followed the Yarra +in its winding course inland, in the direction of the Botanical +Gardens. + +Upon a gentle rise beside the river, not far enough away from Melbourne +to be inconvenient, but yet sufficiently removed from its mud and +noise, were pitched two tents, evidently new, with crimson paint still +gay upon the round nobs of the centre posts, and looking altogether +more in trim for a gala day in Merry England than a trip to the +diggings. The sun was high above our heads, and the day +intensely hot; so much so, that I could not resist the temptation of +tapping at the canvas door to ask for a draught of water. A gentleman +obeyed the summons, and on learning the occasion of this unceremonious +visit, politely accommodated me with a camp-stool and some delicious +fresh milk--in Melbourne almost a luxury. Whilst I was imbibing this +with no little relish, my friends were entering into conversation with +our new acquaintance. The tents belonged to a party just arrived by the +steamer from England, with everything complete for the diggings, to +which they meant to proceed in another week, and where I had the +pleasure of meeting them again, though under different and very +peculiar circumstances. The tent which I had invaded was inhabited by +two, the elder of whom, a powerfully-built man of thirty, formed a +strong contrast to his companion, a delicate-looking youth, whose +apparent age could not have exceeded sixteen years. + +After a short rest, we returned to Melbourne, well pleased with our +little adventure. + +The next day was hardly long enough for our numerous preparations, and +it was late before we retired to rest. Six was the hour +appointed for the next morning's breakfast. Excited with anticipating +the adventures to commence on the morrow, no wonder that my dreams +should all be GOLDEN ones. + + + + +Chapter IV. + + + +CAMPING UP--MELBOURNE TO THE BLACK FOREST + + +The anxiously-expected morning at length commenced, and a +dismal-looking morning it was--hazy and damp, with a small drizzling +rain, which, from the gloomy aspect above, seemed likely to last. It +was not, however, sufficient to damp our spirits, and the appointed +hour found us all assembled to attack the last meal that we anticipated +to make for some time to come beneath the shelter of a ceiling. At +eight o'clock our united party was to start from the "Duke of York" +hotel, and as that hour drew nigh, the unmistakeable signs of +"something up," attracted a few idlers to witness our departure. In +truth, we were a goodly party, and created no little sensation among +the loungers--but I must regularly introduce our troop to my readers. + +First then, I must mention two large drays, each drawn by a pair of +stout horses--one the property of two Germans, who were bound for +Forest Creek, the other belonged to ourselves and shipmates. There were +three pack-horses--one (laden with a speculation in bran) belonged to +a queer-looking sailor, who went by the name of Joe, the other two were +under the care of a man named Gregory, who was going to rejoin his +mates at Eagle Hawk Gully. As his destination was the farthest, and he +was well acquainted with the roads, he ought to have been elected +leader, but from some mis-management that dignity was conferred upon a +stout old gentleman, who had taken a pleasure-trip to Mount Alexander, +the previous summer. + +Starting is almost always a tedious affair, nor was this particular +case an exception. First one had forgotten something--another broke a +strap, and a new one had to be procured--then the dray was not +properly packed, and must be righted--some one else wanted an +extra "nobbler"--then a fresh, and still a fresh delay, so that +although eight was the appointed hour, it was noon ere we bade farewell +to mine host of the "Duke of York." + +At length the word of command was spoken. Foremost came the gallant +captain (as we had dubbed him), and with him two ship doctors, in +partnership together, who carried the signs of their profession along +with them in the shape of a most surgeon-like mahogany box. Then came +the two Germans, complacently smoking their meerschaums, and attending +to their dray and horses, which latter, unlike their masters, were of a +very restless turn of mind. After these came a party of six, among whom +was Gregory and two lively Frenchmen, who kept up an incessant +chattering. Joe walked by himself, leading his pack-horse, then came +our four shipmates, two by two, and last, our own particular five. + +Most carried on their backs their individual property--blankets, +provisions for the road, &c., rolled in a skin, and fastened over the +shoulders by leathern straps. This bundle goes by the name of "swag," +and is the digger's usual accompaniment--it being too great a +luxury to place upon a dray or pack-horse anything not absolutely +necessary. This will be easily understood when it is known that +carriers, during the winter, obtained 120 pounds and sometimes 150 pounds +a ton for conveying goods to Bendigo (about one hundred miles from +Melbourne). Nor was the sum exorbitant, as besides the chance of a few +weeks' stick in the mud, they run great risk of injuring their horses or +bullocks; many a valuable beast has been obliged to be shot where it +stood, it being found impossible to extricate it from the mud and swamp. +At the time we started, the sum generally demanded was about 70 pounds per +ton. On the price of carriage up, depended of course the price of +provisions at the diggings. + +The weight of one of these "swags" is far from light; the provender for +the road is itself by no means trifling, though that of course +diminishes by the way, and lightens the load a little. Still there are +the blankets, fire-arms, drinking and eating apparatus, clothing, +chamois-leather for the gold that has yet to be dug, and numberless +other cumbersome articles necessary for the digger. In every +belt was stuck either a large knife or a tomahawk; two shouldered their +guns (by the bye, rather imprudent, as the sight of fire-arms often +brings down an attack); some had thick sticks, fit to fell a bullock; +altogether, we seemed well prepared to encounter an entire army of +bushrangers. I felt tolerably comfortable perched upon our dray, amid a +mass of other soft lumber; a bag of flour formed an easy support to +lean against; on either side I was well walled in by the canvas and +poles of our tent; a large cheese made a convenient footstool. My +attire, although well suited for the business on hand, would hardly +have passed muster in any other situation. A dress of common dark blue +serge, a felt wide-awake, and a waterproof coat wrapped round me, made +a ludicrous assortment. + +Going along at a foot-pace we descended Great Bourke Street, and made +our first halt opposite the Post-office, where one of our party made a +last effort to obtain a letter from his lady-love, which was, alas! +unsuccessful. But we move on again--pass the Horse Bazaar--turn into +Queen Street--up we go towards Flemington, leaving the +Melbourne cemetery on our right, and the flag-staff a little to the +left; and now our journey may be considered fairly begun. + +Just out of Melbourne, passing to the east of the Benevolent Asylum, we +went over a little rise called Mount Pleasant, which, on a damp sort of +a day, with the rain beating around one, seemed certainly a misnomer. +After about two miles, we came to a branch-road leading to Pentridge, +where the Government convict establishment is situated. This we left on +our right, and through a line of country thickly wooded (consisting of +red and white gum, stringy bark, cherry and other trees), we arrived at +Flemington, which is about three miles and a half from town. + +Flemington is a neat little village or town-ship, consisting of about +forty houses, a blacksmith's shop, several stores, and a good inn, +built of brick and stone, with very fair accommodation for travellers, +and a large stable and stock-yards. + +After leaving Flemington, we passed several nice-looking homesteads; +some are on a very large scale, and belong to gentlemen connected +with Melbourne, who prefer "living out of town." On reaching the +top of the hill beyond Flemington there is a fine view of Melbourne, +the bay, William's Town, and the surrounding country, but the miserable +weather prevented us at this time from properly enjoying it. Sunshine +was all we needed to have made this portion of our travels truly +delightful. + +The road was nicely level, fine trees sheltered it on either side, +whilst ever and anon some rustic farm-house was passed, or coffee-shop, +temporarily erected of canvas or blankets, offered refreshment (such as +it was), and the latest news of the diggings to those who had no +objection to pay well for what they had. This Flemington road (which is +considered the most Pleasant in Victoria, or at least anywhere near +Melbourne) is very good as far as Tulip Wright's, which we now +approached. + +Wright's public-house is kept by the man whose name it bears; it is a +rambling ill-built, but withal pleasing-looking edifice, built chiefly +of weather-board and shingle, with a verandah all round. The whole is +painted white, and whilst at some distance from it a passing ray +of sunshine gave it a most peculiar effect. In front of the principal +entrance is a thundering large lamp, a most conspicuous looking object. +Wright himself was formerly in the police, and being a sharp fellow, +obtained the cognomen of "Tulip," by which both he and his house have +always been known; and so inseparable have the names become, that, +whilst "Tulip Wright's" is renowned well-nigh all over the colonies, +the simple name of the owner would create some inquiries. The state of +accommodation here may be gathered from the success of some of the +party who had a PENCHANT for "nobblers" of brandy. "Nothing but bottled +beer in the house." "What could we have for dinner?" inquired one, +rather amused at this Hobson's choice state of affairs. "The eatables +was only cold meat; and they couldn't cook nothink fresh," was the curt +reply. "Can we sleep here?" "Yes--under your drays." As we literally +determined to "camp out" on the journey, we passed on, without +partaking of their "cold eatables," or availing ourselves of their +permission to sleep under our own drays, and, leaving the road +to Sydney on our right, and the one to Keilor straight before us, we +turned short off to the left towards the Deep Creek. + +Of the two rejected routes I will give a very brief account. + +The right-hand road leads to Sydney, VIA Kilmore, and many going to the +diggings prefer using this road as far as that township. The country +about here is very flat, stony and destitute of timber; occasionally +the journey is varied by a water-hole or surface-spring. After several +miles, a public-house called the "Lady of the Lake" is reached, which +is reckoned by many the best country inn on this or any other road in +the colonies. The accommodation is excellent, and the rooms well +arranged, and independent of the house. There are ten or twelve rooms +which, on a push, could accommodate fifty or sixty people; six are +arranged in pairs for the convenience of married persons, and the +fashionable trip during the honey-moon (particularly for diggers' +weddings) is to the "Lady of the Lake." Whether Sir Walter's poem be +the origin of the sign, or whether the swamps in the rear, I cannot +say, but decidedly there is no lake and no lady, though I have +heard of a buxom lass, the landlord's daughter, who acts as barmaid, +and is a great favourite. This spot was the scene last May of a +horrible murder, which has added no little to the notoriety of the +neighbourhood. + +After several miles you at length arrive at Kilmore, which is a large +and thriving township, containing two places of worship, several stores +and inns. There is a resident magistrate with his staff of officials, +and a station for a detachment of mounted police. Kilmore is on the +main overland road from Melbourne to Sydney, and, although not on the +confines of the two colonies, is rather an important place, from being +the last main township until you reach the interior of New South Wales. +The Government buildings are commodious and well arranged. There are +several farms and stations in the neighbourhood, but the country round +is flat and swampy. + +The middle road leads you direct to Keilor, and you must cross the Deep +Creek in a dangerous part, as the banks thereabouts are very steep, the +stream (though narrow) very rapid, and the bottom stony. In 1851, the +bridge (an ordinary log one) was washed down by the floods, and +for two months all communication was cut off. Government have now put a +punt, which is worked backwards and forwards every half-hour from six +in the morning till six at night, at certain fares, which are doubled +after these hours. These fares are: for a passenger, 6d.; a horse or +bullock, 1s.; a two-wheeled vehicle, ls. 6d.; a loaded dray, 2s. The +punt is tolerably well managed, except when the man gets intoxicated-- +not an unfrequent occurrence. When there was neither bridge nor punt, +those who wished to cross were obliged to ford it; and so strong has +been the current, that horses have been carried down one or two hundred +yards before they could effect a landing. Keilor is a pretty little +village with a good inn, several nice cottages, and a store or two. The +country round is hilly and barren--scarcely any herbage and that +little is rank and coarse; the timber is very scarce. This road to the +diggings is not much used. + +But to return to ourselves. The rain and bad roads made travelling so +very wearisome, that before we had proceeded far it was unanimously +agreed that we should halt and pitch our first encampment. +"Pitch our first encampment! how charming!" exclaims some romantic +reader, as though it were an easily accomplished undertaking. Fixing a +gipsy-tent at a FETE CHAMPETRE, with a smiling sky above, and all +requisites ready to hand, is one thing, and attempting to sink poles +and erect tents out of blankets and rugs in a high wind and pelting +rain, is (if I may be allowed the colonialism) "a horse of quite +another colour." Some sort of sheltering-places were at length +completed; the horses were taken from the dray and tethered to some +trees within sight, and then we made preparations for satisfying the +unromantic cravings of hunger--symptoms of which we all, more or less, +began to feel. With some difficulty a fire was kindled and kept alight +in the hollow trunk of an old gum tree. A damper was speedily made, +which, with a plentiful supply of steaks and boiled and roasted eggs, +was a supper by no means to be despised. The eggs had been procured at +four shillings a dozen from a farm-house we had passed. + +It was certainly the most curious tea-table at which I had ever +assisted. Chairs, of course, there were none, we sat or lounged +upon the ground as best suited our tired limbs; tin pannicans (holding +about a pint) served as tea-cups, and plates of the same metal in lieu +of china; a teapot was dispensed with; but a portly substitute was +there in the shape of an immense iron kettle, just taken from the fire +and placed in the centre of our grand tea-service, which being new, a +lively imagination might mistake for silver. Hot spirits, for those +desirous of imbibing them, followed our substantial repast; but fatigue +and the dreary weather had so completely damped all disposition to +conviviality, that a very short space of time found all fast asleep +except the three unfortunates on the watch, which was relieved every +two hours. + +WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 8.--I awoke rather early this morning, not +feeling over-comfortable from having slept in my clothes all night, +which it is necessary to do on the journey, so as never to be +unprepared for any emergency. A small corner of my brother's tent had +been partitioned off for my BED-ROOM; it was quite dark, so my first +act on waking was to push aside one of the blankets, still wet, +which had been my roof during the night, and thus admit air and light +into my apartments. Having made my toilette--after a fashion--I +joined my companions on the watch, who were deep in the mysteries of +preparing something eatable for breakfast. I discovered that their +efforts were concentrated on the formation of a damper, which seemed to +give them no little difficulty. A damper is the legitimate, and, in +fact, only bread of the bush, and should be made solely of flour and +water, well mixed and kneaded into a cake, as large as you like, but +not more than two inches in thickness, and then placed among the hot +ashes to bake. If well-made, it is very sweet and a good substitute for +bread. The rain had, however, spoiled our ashes, the dough would +neither rise nor brown, so in despair we mixed a fresh batch of flour +and water, and having fried some rashers of fat bacon till they were +nearly melted, we poured the batter into the pan and let it fry till +done. This impromptu dish gave general satisfaction and was pronounced +a cross between a pancake and a heavy suet pudding. + +Breakfast over, our temporary residences were pulled down, the +drays loaded, and our journey recommenced. + +We soon reached the Deep Creek, and crossed by means of a punt, the +charges being the same as the one at Keilor. Near here is a station +belonging to Mr. Ryleigh, which is a happy specimen of a squatter's +home--everything being managed in a superior manner. The house itself +is erected on a rise and surrounded by an extensive garden, vinery and +orchard, all well stocked and kept; some beautifully enclosed paddocks +reach to the Creek, and give an English park-like appearance to the +whole. The view from here over the bay and Brighton is splendid; you +can almost distinguish Geelong. About a quarter of a mile off is a +little hamlet with a neat Swiss-looking church, built over a +school-room on a rise of ground; it has a most peculiar effect, and is +the more singular as the economizing the ground could not be a +consideration in the colony; on the left of the church is a pretty +little parsonage, whitewashed, with slate roof and green-painted +window-frames. + +I still fancy, though our redoubtable captain most strenuously +denied it, that we had in some manner gone out of our way; however that +may be, the roads seemed worse and worse as we proceeded, and our pace +became more tedious as here and there it was up-hill work till at +length we reached the Keilor plains. It was almost disheartening to +look upon that vast expanse of flat and dreary land except where the +eye lingered on the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which rose far +distant in front of us. On entering the plains we passed two or three +little farm-houses, coffee-shops, &c., and encountered several parties +coming home for a trip to Melbourne. For ten miles we travelled on +dismally enough, for it rained a great deal, and we were constantly +obliged to halt to get the horses rested a little. We now passed a +coffee-shop, which although only consisting of a canvas tent and little +wooden shed, has been known to accommodate above forty people of a +night. As there are always plenty of bad characters lounging in the +neighbourhood of such places, we kept at a respectful distance, and did +not make our final halt till full two miles farther on our road. Tents +were again pitched, but owing to their not being fastened over +securely, many of us got an unwished-for shower-bath during the +night; but this is nothing--at the antipodes one soon learns to laugh +at such trifles. + +THURSDAY, 9.--This morning we were up betimes, some of our party being +so sanguine as to anticipate making the "Bush Inn" before evening. As +we proceeded, this hope quickly faded away. The Keilor plains seemed +almost impassable, and what with pieces of rock here, and a water-hole +there, crossing them was more dangerous than agreeable. Now one passed +a broken-down dray; then one's ears were horrified at the oaths an +unhappy wight was venting at a mud-hole into which he had stumbled. A +comical object he looked, as, half-seas-over, he attempted to pull on a +mud-covered boot, which he had just extricated from the hole where it +and his leg had parted company. A piece of wood, which his imagination +transformed into a shoe-horn, was in his hand. "Put it into the +larboard side," (suiting the action to the word), "there it goes--damn +her, she won't come on! Put it into the starboard side there it goes-- +well done, old girl," and he triumphantly rose from the ground, and +reeled away. + +With a hearty laugh, we proceeded on our road, and after passing +two or three coffee-tents, we arrived at Gregory's Inn. The landlord is +considered the best on the road, and is a practical example of what +honesty and industry may achieve. He commenced some nine months before +without a shilling--his tarpaulin tent and small stock of tea, sugar, +coffee, &c., being a loan. He has now a large weather-board house, +capable of making up one hundred beds, and even then unable to +accommodate all his visitors, so numerous are they, from the good name +he bears. Here we got a capital cold dinner of meat, bread, cheese, +coffee, tea, &c., for three shillings a-piece, and, somewhat refreshed, +went forwards in better spirits, though the accounts we heard there of +the bad roads in the Black Forest would have disheartened many. + +Mount Macedon now formed quite a beautiful object on our right: a +little below that mountain appeared a smaller one, called the Bald +Hill, from its peak being quite barren, and the soil of a white +limestone and quartzy nature, which gives it a most peculiar and +splendid appearance when the sun's rays are shining upon it. As +we advanced, the thickly-wooded sides of Mount Macedon became more +distinct, and our proximity to a part of the country which we knew to +be auriferous, exercised an unaccountable yet pleasureable influence +over our spirits, which was perhaps increased by the loveliness of the +spot where we now pitched our tents for the evening. It was at the foot +of the Gap. The stately gum-tree, the shea-oak, with its gracefully +drooping foliage, the perfumed yellow blossom of the mimosa, the +richly-wooded mountain in the background, united to form a picture too +magnificent to describe. The ground was carpeted with wild flowers; the +sarsaparilla blossoms creeping everywhere; before us slowly rippled a +clear streamlet, reflecting a thousand times the deepening tints which +the last rays of the setting sun flung over the surrounding scenery; +the air rang with the cawing of the numerous cockatoos and parrots of +all hues and colours who made the woods resound with their tones, +whilst their restless movements and gay plumage gave life and piquancy +to the scene. + +This night our beds were composed of the mimosa, which has a perfume +like the hawthorn. The softest-looking branches were selected, +cut down, and flung upon the ground beneath the tents, and formed a bed +which, to my wearied limbs, appeared the softest and most luxuriant +upon which I had slept since my arrival in the colonies. + +FRIDAY, 10.--With some reluctance I aroused myself from a very heavy +slumber produced by the over fatigue of the preceding day. I found +every one preparing to start; kindly considerate, my companions thought +a good sleep more refreshing for me than breakfast, and had deferred +awakening me till quite obliged, so taking a few sailors' biscuits in +my pocket to munch on the way, I bade farewell to a spot whose natural +beauties I have never seen surpassed. + +Proceeding onwards, we skirted the Bald Hill, and entering rather a +scrubby tract, crossed a creek more awkward for our drays than +dangerous to ourselves; we then passed two or three little +coffee-shops, which being tents are always shifting their quarters, +crossed another plain, very stony and in places swampy, which +terminated in a thickly-wooded tract of gum and wattle trees. Into this +wood we now entered. After about five miles uncomfortable +travelling we reached the "Bush Inn." + +I must here observe that no DISTINCT road is ever cut out, but the +whole country is cut up into innumerable tracks by the carts and drays, +and which are awfully bewildering to the new-comer as they run here and +there, now crossing a swamp, now a rocky place, here a creek, there a +hillock, and yet, in many cases, all leading BONA FIDE to the same +place. + +The "Bush Inn" (the genuine one, for there are two) consists of a +large, well-built, brick and weather-board house, with bed-rooms for +private families. There is a detached weather-board, and stone kitchen, +and tap-room, with sleeping-lofts above, a large yard with sheds and +good stabling. A portion of the house and stables is always engaged for +the use of the escort. About two hundred yards off is the "New Bush +Inn," somewhat similar to the other, not quite so large, with an +attempt at a garden. The charges at these houses are enormous. Five and +six shillings per meal, seven-and-sixpence for a bottle of ale, and one +shilling for half a glass or "nobbler" of brandy. About half a +mile distant is a large station belonging to Mr. Watson; the houses, +huts and yards are very prettily laid out, and, in a few years he will +have the finest vineyard in the neighbourhood. Two miles to the east is +the residence of Mr. Poullett, Commissioner of Crown Lands, which is +very pleasantly situated on the banks of an ever-running stream. The +paddock, which is a large one (10 square miles, or 6400 acres), is well +wooded. Some new police barracks and stabling yards are in the course +of erection. + +We did not linger in the "Bush Inn," but pursued our way over a marshy +flat, crossed a dangerous creek, and having ascended a steep and +thickly wooded hill on the skirts of the Black Forest, we halted and +pitched our tents. It was little more than mid-day, but the road had +been fearful--as bad as wading through a mire; men and beasts were +worn out, and it was thought advisable to recruit well before entering +the dreaded precincts of the Black Forest. Fires were lit, supper was +cooked, spirits and pipes made their appearance, songs were sung, and a +few of the awful exploits of Black Douglas and his followers were +related. Later in the evening, an opossum was shot by one of us. +Its skin was very soft, with rich, brown hair. + +SATURDAY, 11--A dismal wet day--we remained stationary, as many of +our party were still foot-sore, and all were glad of a rest. Some went +out shooting, but returned with only a few parrots and cockatoos, which +they roasted, and pronounced nice eating. Towards evening, a party of +four, returning from the diggings, encamped at a little distance from +us. Some of our loiterers made their acquaintance. They had passed the +previous night in the Black Forest, having wandered out of their way. +To add to their misfortunes, they had been attacked by three well-armed +bushrangers, whom they had compelled to desist from their attempt, not, +however, before two of the poor men had been wounded, one rather +severely. Hardly had they recovered this shock, than they were +horrified by the sudden discovery in a sequestered spot of some human +bones, strewn upon the ground beside a broken-down cart. Whether +accident or design had brought these unfortunates to an untimely end, +none know; but this ominous appearance seemed to have terrified +them even more than the bushrangers themselves. These accounts sobered +our party not a little, and it was deemed advisable to double the watch +that night. + + + + +Chapter V. + + + +CAMPING UP--BLACK FOREST TO EAGLE HAWK GULLY + + +SUNDAY, 12.--A lovely summer morning, which raised our spirits to +something like their usual tone, with the exception of our gallant(?) +captain, who resigned his post, declaring it his intention to return to +Melbourne with the four returning diggers. Poor fellow! their awful +account of the Black Forest had been too much for his courage. Gregory +was elected in his place, and wishing him a pleasant trip home, our +journey was resumed as usual, and we entered the forest. Here the trees +grow very closely together; in some places they are so thickly +set that the rear-guard of the escort cannot see the advance-guard in +the march. There is a slight undergrowth of scrub. We saw some of the +choicest of the ERICA tribe in full bloom, like a beautiful crimson +waxen bell-blossom, and once whilst walking (which I frequently did to +relieve the monotony of being perched on the dray by myself) I saw a +fine specimen of the ORELUDIAE at the foot of a tree growing from the +wood; it was something like a yellow sweet-pea, but really too +beautiful to describe. The barks of the trees, and also the ground, +have a black, charred appearance (hence the name of the forest); this +is said to have been caused by its having once been on fire. Many of +the ambuscades of the noted Douglas were passed, and the scenes of some +most fearful murders pointed out. We only halted once--so anxious were +we to leave behind us this dreaded spot--and at sunset reached the +borders of the Five Mile Creek. + +MONDAY, 13.--Another fine day. Crossed the Five Mile Creek by means of +a rickety sort of bridge. There are two inns here, with plenty of +accommodation for man and beast. We patronized neither, but made the +best of our way towards Kyneton. Our road lay through a densely +wooded country till we arrived at Jacomb's Station; this we left, and +turning to the right, soon reached Kyneton, which lies on the river +Campaspe. + +Carlshrue lies to the right, about three miles distant, on rather low +land; this is the chief station of the Government escort; the barrack +accommodation is first-rate, with stabling and paddocks for the horses, +&c. + +Kyneton is about sixty-one miles from Melbourne. There are two large +inns, with ample accommodation for four hundred people between them, +several stores, with almost every needful article. A neat little +church, capable of holding nearly three hundred persons, with a school +and parsonage. There is a resident magistrate and constabulary, with a +police-court and gaol in progress of erection. The township is rather +straggling, but what houses there are have a very picturesque +appearance. The only draw-back to this little town is the badness of +the streets. Although it is rather on an elevated spot, the streets and +roads, from the loamy nature of the sod, are a perfect quagmire, even +abominable in summer time. The charges here are high, but not +extortionate, as, besides the two inns alluded to, there are several +coffee-shops and lodging-houses; so competition has its effect even in +the bush. + +The Campaspe is a large river, and is crossed by a substantial timber +bridge. + +We still adhered to our original plan of camping out; a few necessaries +were purchased in the town, and after continuing our journey to a +little distance from it, we halted for the night. + +TUESDAY 14.--This morning commenced with a colonial shower, which gave +us all a good drenching. Started about eight o'clock; returned to +Kyneton; crossed the bridge, and passed several farm-houses. The +country here is very changeable, sometimes flat and boggy, at others, +very hilly and stony. We were obliged to ford several small creeks, +evidently tributaries to the Campaspe, and at about ten miles from +Kyneton, entered the Coliban range, which is thickly wooded. The river +itself is about fourteen miles from Kyneton. Here we camped, in the +pouring rain. Some of our party walked to the town of Malmsbury, about +a mile and a half from our camping place. The town consisted of +about three tents, and an inn dignified by the appellation of the +"Malmsbury Hotel". It is a two-storied, weather-board, and pale house, +painted blue, with a lamp before it of many colours, large enough for +half-a-dozen people to dine in. It (the inn, not the lamp,) is capable +of accommodating two hundred people, independent of which there is a +large tent, similar to the booths at a fair, about 100 feet long by 30 +wide, for the convenience of those who prefer sleeping under cover when +the house is full. Being hungry with their walk, our comrades dined +here, for which they paid 3s. 6d. a-piece; ale was 1s. 6d. a glass; +brandy 2s. per half glass, or "nobbler;" cheese, 4s. 6d. a pound; +bread, 5s. the four-pound loaf; wine, 25s. a bottle. By the time they +returned, we had struck our tents, intending to cross a muddy-banked +creek that lay in our road that evening, as we were told that the +waters might be too swollen to do it next day. The water reached above +their waists, and as my usual post was very insecure, I was obliged to +be carried over on their shoulders, which did not prevent my feet from +being thoroughly soaked before reaching the other side, where we +remained all night. + +WEDNESDAY, 15.--Rainy day again, so much so, that we thought it +advisable not to shift our quarters. In the afternoon, three returning +diggers pitched their tents not far from ours. They were rather +sociable, and gave us a good account of the diggings. They had +themselves been very fortunate. On the same day that we had been idly +resting on the borders of the Black Forest, they had succeeded in +taking twenty-three pounds weight out of their claim, and two days +after, two hundred and six ounces more, making, in all, gold to the +value (in England) of about eighteen hundred pounds. They were +returning to Melbourne for a spree, (which means to fling their gains +away as quickly as possible,) and then as soon as the dry season was +regularly set in, they meant to return to Bendigo for another spell at +work. On representing to them the folly of not making better use of +their hard-earned wages, the answer invariably was, "Plenty more to be +got where this came from," an apt illustration of the proverb, "light +come, light go." Two of these diggers had with them their licences for +the current month, which they offered to sell for ten shillings each; +two of our company purchased them. This, although a common +proceeding, was quite illegal, and, of course, the two purchasers had +to assume for the rest of the month the names of the parties to whom +the licences had been issued. As evening approached, our new +acquaintances became very sociable, and amused us with their account of +the diggings; and the subject of licensing being naturally discussed, +led to our being initiated into the various means of evading it, and +the penalties incurred thereby. One story they related amused us at the +time, and as it is true I will repeat it here, though I fancy the lack +of oral communication will subtract from it what little interest it did +possess. + +Before I commence, I must give my readers some little insight into the +nature of the licence tax itself. The licence, (for which thirty +shillings, or half an ounce of gold, is paid per month) is in the +following form: + + +VICTORIA GOLD LICENCE. +No. 1710, Sept. 3, 1852. + +The Bearer, Henry Clements, having paid to me the Sum of One Pound, Ten +Shillings, on account of the Territorial Revenue, I hereby +Licence him to dig, search for, and remove Gold on and from any such +Crown Land within the Upper Lodden District, as I shall assign to him +for that purpose during the month of September, 1852, not within +half-a-mile of any Head station. + +This Licence is not transferable, and to be produced whenever demanded +by me or any other person acting under the Authority of the Government, +and to be returned when another Licence is issued. + +(SIGNED) B. BAXTER, Commissioner. + + +At the back of the Licence are the following rules: + + +REGULATIONS TO BE OBSERVED BY THE PERSONS DIGGING FOR GOLD, OR +OTHERWISE EMPLOYED AT THE GOLD FIELDS. + +1. Every Licensed Person must always have his Licence with him, ready +to be produced whenever demanded by a Commissioner, or Person acting +under his instructions, otherwise he is liable to be proceeded against +as an Unlicensed person. + +2. Every Person digging for Gold, or occupying Land, without a +Licence, is liable by Law to be fined, for the first offence, not +exceeding 5 pounds; for a second offence, not exceeding 15 pounds; and for +a subsequent offence, not exceeding 30 pounds. + +3. Digging for Gold is not allowed within Ten feet of any Public Road, +nor are the Roads to be undermined. + +4. Tents or buildings are not to be erected within Twenty feet of each +other, or within Twenty feet of any Creek. + +5. It is enjoined that all Persons at the Gold Fields maintain and +assist in maintaining a due and proper observance of Sundays. + +* * * * * + +So great is the crowd around the Commissioner's tent at the beginning +of the month, that it is a matter of difficulty to procure it, and +consequently the inspectors rarely begin their rounds before the 10th, +when (as they generally vary the fine according to the date at which +the delinquency is discovered), a non-licensed digger would have the +pleasure of accompanying a crowd of similar offenders to the +Commissioners, sometimes four or five miles from his working-place, pay +a fine of about 3 pounds, and take out a licence. After the 20th of the +month, the fine inflicted is generally from 5 pounds to 10 pounds and a +licence, which is rather a dear price to pay for a few days' permission to +dig, as a licence, although granted on the 30th of one month, would be +unavailable for the next. The inspectors are generally strong-built, +rough-looking customers, they dress like the generality of the diggers, +and are only known by their carrying a gun in lieu of a pick or shovel. +Delinquents unable to pay the fine, have the pleasure of working it out +on the roads. + +Now for my story--such as it is. + +Mike and Robert were two as good mates as any at the Mount Alexander +diggings. They had had a good spell of hard work, and, as is usually +the way, returned to Melbourne for a holiday at Christmas-time; and +then it was that the bright eyes of Susan Hinton first sowed discord +between them. Mike was the successful wooer, and the old man gave his +consent; for Mike, with one exception, had contrived to make himself a +favourite with both father and daughter. The exception was this. Old +Hinton was a strict disciplinarian--one of what is called the +"good old school"--he hated radicals, revolutionists, and reformers, +or any opposition to Church or State. Mike, on the contrary, loved +nothing better than to hold forth against the powers that be; and it +was his greatest boast that Government had never pocketed a farthing +from him in the way of a licence. This, in the old man's eyes, was his +solitary fault, and when Mike declared his intention of taking another +trip to the "lottery fields" before taking a ticket in the even greater +lottery of marriage, he solemnly declared that no daughter of his +should ever marry a man who had been openly convicted of in any way +evading the licence fee. + +This declaration from any other man, who had already promised his +daughter in marriage, would not have had much weight; but Mike knew the +stern, strict character of Hinton, and respected this determination +accordingly. The day of their departure arrived, and with a tearful +injunction to bear in mind her father's wishes, Susan bade her lover +farewell, and Robert and he proceeded on their journey. Full of his own +happiness, Mike had never suspected his comrade's love for +Susan, and little dreamt he of the hatred against himself to which it +had given birth--hatred the more to be dreaded since it was concealed +under a most friendly exterior. + +For the first month Mike behaved to the very letter of the law, and +having for the sum of one pound ten shillings purchased his legal right to +dig for gold, felt himself a most exemplary character. Success again +crowned their efforts, and a speedy return to Melbourne was contemplated. +In the ardour of this exciting work another month commenced, and Mike at +first forgot and then neglected to renew his licence. "The inspector +rarely came his rounds before the 14th; the neighbourhood was +considered deserted--fairly 'worked out;' he'd never come round +there." Thus argued Mike, and his friend cordially agreed with him. +"Lose a day's work standing outside the Commissioner's tent broiling in +a crowd, when two days would finish the job? Not he, indeed! Mike might +please himself, but HE shouldn't get a licence;" and this determination +on the part of his "mate" settled the matter. + +In one respect Mike's self-security was not unfounded; the gully +in which their tent was now pitched was nearly deserted. Some while +previous there had been a great rush to the place, so great that it was +almost excavated; then the rush took a different direction, and few now +cared to work on the two or three spots that had been left untouched. +Like many other localities considered "worked out," as much remained in +the ground as had been taken from it, and as each day added to their +store, Mike's hilarity increased. + +It was now the 10th of the month; their hole had been fairly +"bottomed," a nice little nest of nuggets discovered, their gains +divided, and the gold sent down to the escort-office for transit to +Melbourne. A few buckets-full of good washing-stuff was all that was +left undone. + +"To-day will finish that," thought Mike, and to it he set with hearty +good-will, to the intense satisfaction of his comrade, who sat watching +him at a little distance. Suddenly Mike felt a heavy hand upon his +shoulder: he looked up, and saw before him--the inspector. He had +already with him a large body of defaulters, and Mike little doubted +but that he must be added to their number. Old Hinton's determined +speech, Susan's parting words and tears, flashed across his +mind. + +"You've lost your bonnie bride," muttered Robert, loud enough to reach +his rival's ears. + +Mike glanced at him, and the look of triumph he saw there roused every +spark of energy within him, and it was in a tone of wellf-assumed +composure that he replied to the inspector, "My licence is in my +pocket, and my coat is below there;" and without a moment's hesitation +sprang into his hole to fetch it. Some minutes elapsed. The inspector +waxed impatient. A suspicion of the truth flashed across Robert's mind, +and he too descended the hole. THERE was the coat and the licence of +the past month in the pocket; but the owner had gone, vanished, and an +excavation on one side which led into the next hole and thence into a +complete labyrinth underground, plainly pointed out the method of +escape. Seeing no use in ferreting the delinquent out of so dangerous a +place, the inspector sulkily withdrew, though not without venting some +of his ill-humour upon Robert, at whose representations, made to him +the day previous, he had come so far out of his road. + +But let us return to Mike. By a happy thought, he had suddenly +remembered that whilst working some days before in the hole, his pick +had let in daylight on one side, and the desperate hope presented +itself to his mind that he might make a passage into the next pit, +which he knew led into others, and thus escape. His success was beyond +his expectation; and he regained the open air at a sufficient distance +from his late quarters to escape observation. Once able to reflect +calmly upon the event of the morning, it required little discrimination +to fix upon Robert his real share in it. And now there was no time to +lose in returning to Melbourne, and prevent by a speedy marriage any +further attempt to set his intended father-in-law against him. The +roads were dry, for it was the sultry month of February; and two days +saw him beside his lady-love. + +Although railroads are as yet unknown in Australia, everything goes on +at railroad speed; and a marriage concocted one day is frequently +solemnized the next. His eagerness, therefore, was no way remarkable. +No time was lost; and when, three days after Mike's return, Robert +(with his head full of plots and machinations) presented himself +at old Hinton's door, he found them all at a well-spread wedding +breakfast, round which were gathered a merry party, listening with a +digger's interest to the way in which the happy bridegroom had evaded +the inspector. Mike had wisely kept the story till Susan was his wife. + +THURSDAY 16.--With great delight we hailed the prognostications of a +fine day, and, after having eaten a hearty breakfast on the strength of +it, we recommenced our travels, and crossed the Coliban Bridge. The +Coliban is a fine river running through a beautiful valley bounded with +green trees; the bridge is a timber one, out of repair, and dangerous. +A township called Malmsbury has been laid out here in small allotments +with the expectation of a future city; but as yet not a house has been +erected, with the exception of the "hotel" before mentioned, putting +one in mind of the American Eden in "Martin Chuzzlewit." A mile beyond +the Coliban are the washing huts of John Orr's Station, and about three +miles to the left is his residence; the house is stone, with verandahs, +the garden and vineyards are prettily laid out. + +After passing the bridge, we took the right-hand road, which led +us through a low country, and across two or three tributary creeks; we +then reached the neighbourhood of Saw-pit Gully, so called from the +number of saw-pits there, which formerly gave employment to numerous +sawyers, whose occupation--it is almost needless to state--is now +deserted. It is surrounded with fine large timber; there are several +coffee-shops, a blacksmith's and wheelright's, and a neat little +weather-board inn. + +At this part, our German friends bade us farewell, to follow out their +original plan of going to Forest Creek; they had persuaded four others +to accompany them, so our number was reduced to fifteen, myself +included. The scenery now became very beautiful, diversified with hill +and dale, well wooded, with here and there a small creek, more +agreeable to look at than to cross, as there were either no bridges or +broken-down ones. The loveliness of the weather seemed to impart energy +even to our horses; and we did not pitch our tents till we had +travelled full sixteen miles. We were now close beside Mount Alexander, +which is nearly covered with timber, chiefly white gum, wattle +and stringy bark. + +FRIDAY, 17.--A lovely morning; we proceeded in excellent spirits, +passing some beautiful scenery, though rather monotonous. During the +first few miles, we went across many little creeks, in the +neighbourhood of which were indications that the diggers had been at +work. These symptoms we hailed with intense delight. Gregory told us +the history of a hole in this neighbourhood, out of which five people +cleared 13,000 pounds worth of gold each in about a few hours. In lieu of +sinking a shaft, they commenced in a gully (colonial for valley), and +drove a hole on an inclined plane up the side of the hill or rise. +However wet the season, they could never be inconvenienced, as the very +inclination would naturally drain the hole. Such a precaution was not +needed, as the whole party were perfectly satisfied with the success +they had had without toiling for more. The country between here and the +"Porcupine Inn" is exceedingly beautiful--not unlike many parts in the +lowlands of Wales. About eight miles on the road we pass Barker's +Creek, which runs through a beautiful vale. + +We camped this evening about four or five miles from Bendigo, +and some miles from the "Porcupine Inn," which we left behind us. The +"Porcupine" is a newly built inn on an old spot, for I believe there +was an inn in existence there before the diggings were ever heard or +thought of. The accommodation appears on rather a small scale. Near it +is a portion of the station of the Messrs. Gibson, through which the +public road runs; some parts are fine, others wooded and swampy. + +SATURDAY, 18.--Fine day; we now approached Bendigo. The timber here is +very large. Here we first beheld the majestic iron bark, EUCALYPTI, the +trunks of which are fluted with the exquisite regularity of a Doric +column; they are in truth the noblest ornaments of these mighty +forests. A few miles further, and the diggings themselves burst upon +our view. Never shall I forget that scene, it well repaid a journey +even of sixteen thousand miles. The trees had been all cut down; it +looked like a sandy plain, or one vast unbroken succession of countless +gravel pits--the earth was everywhere turned up--men's heads +in every direction were popping up and down from their holes. Well +might an Australian writer, in speaking of Bendigo, term it "The +Carthage of the Tyre of Forest Creek." The rattle of the cradle, as it +swayed to and fro, the sounds of the pick and shovel, the busy hum of +so many thousands, the innumerable tents, the stores with large flags +hoisted above them, flags of every shape, colour, and nation, from the +lion and unicorn of England to the Russian eagle, the strange yet +picturesque costume of the diggers themselves, all contributed to +render the scene novel in the extreme. + +We hurried through this exciting locality as quickly as possible; and, +after five miles travelling, reached the Eagle Hawk Gully, where we +pitched our tents, supped, and retired to rest--though, for myself at +least, not to sleep. The excitement of the day was sufficient cure for +drowsiness. Before proceeding with an account of our doings at the +Eagle Hawk, I will give a slight sketch of the character and +peculiarities of the diggings themselves, which are of course not +confined to one spot, but are the characteristics that usually +exist in any auriferous regions, where the diggers are at work. I will +leave myself, therefore, safely ensconced beneath a tent at the Eagle +Hawk, and take a slight and rapid survey of the principal diggings in +the neighbourhood from Saw-pit Gully to Sydney Flat. + + + + +Chapter VI. + + + +THE DIGGINGS + + +Of the history of the discovery of gold in Australia I believe few are +ignorant; it is therefore necessary that my recapitulation of it should +be as brief as possible. The first supposed discovery took place some +sixty years ago, at Port Jackson. A convict made known to Governor +Phillip the existence of an auriferous region near Sydney, and on the +locality being examined, particles of real gold-dust were found. Every +one was astonished, and several other spots were tried without success. +Suspicion was now excited, and the affair underwent a thorough +examination, which elicited the following facts. The convict, in +the hope of obtaining his pardon as a reward, had filed a guinea and +some brass buttons, which, judiciously mixed, made a tolerable pile of +gold-dust, and this he carefully distributed over a small tract of +sandy land. In lieu of the expected freedom, his ingenuity was rewarded +with close confinement and other punishments. Thus ended the first idea +of a gold-field in those colonies. + +In 1841 the Rev. W. B. Clarke expressed his belief in the existence of +gold in the valley of the Macquarie, and this opinion was greatly +confirmed by the observations of European geologists on the Uralian +Mountains. In 1849 an indisputable testimony was added to these +opinions by a Mr. Smith, who was then engaged in some iron works, near +Berrima, and who brought a splendid specimen of gold in quartz to the +Colonial Secretary. Sir C. A. Fitzroy evinced little sympathy with the +discovery, and in a despatch to Lord Grey upon the subject, expressed +his opinion that "any investigation that the Government might institute +with the view of ascertaining whether gold did in reality exist to any +extent or value in that part of the colony where it was supposed +from its geological formation that metal would be found, would only +tend to agitate the public mind, &c." + +Suddenly, in 1851, at the time that the approaching opening of the +Crystal Palace was the principal subject of attention in England, the +colonies of Australia were in a state of far greater excitement, as the +news spread like wild-fire, far and wide, that gold was really there. +To Edward Hammond Hargreaves be given the honour of this discovery. +This gentleman was an old Australian settler, just returned from a trip +to California, where he had been struck by the similarity of the +geological formation of the mountain ranges in his adopted country to +that of the Sacramento district. On his return, he immediately searched +for the precious metal; Ophir, the Turon, and Bathurst well repaid his +labour. Thus commenced the gold diggings of New South Wales. + +The good people of Victoria were rather jealous of the importance given +by these events to the other colony. Committees were formed, and +rewards were offered for the discovery of a gold-field in Victoria. The +announcement of the Clunes Diggings in July, 1851, was the +result; they were situated on a tributary of the Loddon. On September 8, +those of Ballarat, and on the 10th those of Mount Alexander +completely satisfied the most sceptical as to the vast mineral wealth +of the colony. Bendigo soon was heard of; and gully after gully +successively attracted the attention of the public by the display of +their golden treasures. + +The names given to these gullies open a curious field of speculation. +Many have a sort of digger's tradition respecting their first +discovery. The riches of Peg Leg Gully were brought to light through +the surfacing of three men with wooden legs, who were unable to sink a +hole in the regular way. Golden Gully was discovered by a man who, +whilst lounging on the ground and idly pulling up the roots of grass +within his reach, found beneath one a nest of golden nuggets. Eagle +Hawk derives its name from the number of eagle-hawks seen in the gully +before the sounds of the pick and shovel drove them away. Murderer's +Flat and Choke'em Gully tell their own tale. The Irish clan together in +Tipperary Gully. A party of South Australians gave the name of their +chief town to Adelaide Gully. The Iron Bark is so called from +the magnificent trees which abound there. Long, Piccaninny, and Dusty +Gully need no explanation. The Jim Crow ranges are appropriately so +called, for it is only by keeping up a sort of Jim Crow dancing +movement that one can travel about there; it is the roughest piece of +country at the diggings. White Horse Gully obtained its name from a +white horse whose hoofs, whilst the animal in a rage was plunging here +and there, flung up the surface ground and disclosed the treasures +beneath. In this gully was found the famous "John Bull Nugget," lately +exhibited in London. The party to whom it belonged consisted of three +poor sailors; the one who actually discovered it had only been a +fortnight at the diggings. The nugget weighed forty-five pounds, and +was only a few inches beneath the surface. It was sold for 5,000 pounds; a +good morning's work that! + +Let us take a stroll round Forest Creek--what a novel scene!-- +thousands of human beings engaged in digging, wheeling, carrying, and +washing, intermingled with no little grumbling, scolding and swearing. +We approach first the old Post-office Square; next our eye +glances down Adelaide Gully, and over the Montgomery and White Hills, +all pretty well dug up; now we pass the Private Escort Station, and +Little Bendigo. At the junction of Forest, Barker, and Campbell Creeks +we find the Commissioners' quarters--this is nearly five miles from +our starting point. We must now return to Adelaide Gully, and keep +alongside Adelaide Creek, till we come to a high range of rocks, which +we cross, and then find ourselves near the head-waters of Fryer's +Creek. Following that stream towards the Loddon, we pass the +interesting neighbourhood of Golden Gully, Moonlight Flat, Windlass and +Red Hill; this latter which covers about two acres of ground is so +called from the colour of the soil, it was the first found, and is +still considered as the richest auriferous spot near Mount Alexander. +In the wet season, it was reckoned that on Moonlight Flat one man was +daily buried alive from the earth falling into his hole. Proceeding +north-east in the direction of Campbell's Creek, we again reach the +Commissioners' tent. + +The principal gullies about Bendigo are Sailors's, Napoleon, +Pennyweight, Peg Leg, Growler's, White Horse, Eagle Hawk, Californian, +American, Derwent, Long, Picaninny, Iron Bark, Black Man's, Poor Man's, +Dusty, Jim Crow, Spring, and Golden--also Sydney Flat, and Specimen +Hill--Haverton Gully, and the Sheep-wash. Most of these places are +well-ransacked and tunnelled, but thorough good wages may always be +procured by tin dish washing in deserted holes, or surface washing. + +It is not only the diggers, however, who make money at the Gold Fields. +Carters, carpenters, storemen, wheelwrights, butchers, shoemakers, &c., +usually in the long run make a fortune quicker than the diggers +themselves, and certainly with less hard work or risk of life. They can +always get from one to two pounds a day without rations, whereas they may +dig for weeks and get nothing. Living is not more expensive than in +Melbourne: meat is generally from 4d. to 6d. a pound, flour about 1s. 6d +a pound, (this is the most expensive article in house-keeping +there,) butter must be dispensed with, as that is seldom less than +4s. a pound, and only successful diggers can indulge in such articles as +cheese, pickles, ham, sardines, pickled salmon, or spirits, as +all these things, though easily procured if you have gold to throw +away, are expensive, the last-named article (diluted with water or +something less innoxious) is only to be obtained for 30s. a bottle. + +The stores, which are distinguished by a flag, are numerous and well +stocked. A new style of lodging and boarding house is in great vogue. +It is a tent fitted up with stringy bark couches, ranged down each side +the tent, leaving a narrow passage up the middle. The lodgers are +supplied with mutton, damper, and tea, three times a day, for the +charge of 5s. a meal, and 5s. for the bed; this is by the week, a +casual guest must pay double, and as 18 inches is on an average +considered ample width to sleep in, a tent 24 feet long will bring in a +good return to the owner. + +The stores at the diggings are large tents, generally square or oblong, +and everything required by a digger can be obtained for money, from +sugar-candy to potted anchovies; from East India pickles to Bass's pale +ale; from ankle jack boots to a pair of stays; from a baby's cap to a +cradle; and every apparatus for mining, from a pick to a needle. But +the confusion--the din--the medley--what a scene for a shop +walker! Here lies a pair of herrings dripping into a bag of sugar, or a +box of raisins; there a gay-looking bundle of ribbons beneath two +tumblers, and a half-finished bottle of ale. Cheese and butter, bread +and yellow soap, pork and currants, saddles and frocks, wide-awakes and +blue serge shirts, green veils and shovels, baby linen and tallow +candles, are all heaped indiscriminately together; added to which, +there are children bawling, men swearing, store-keeper sulky, and last, +not LEAST, women's tongues going nineteen to the dozen. + +Most of the store-keepers are purchasers of gold either for cash or in +exchange for goods, and many are the tricks from which unsuspecting +diggers suffer. One great and outrageous trick is to weigh the parcels +separately, or divide the whole, on the excuse that the weight would be +too much for the scales; and then, on adding up the grains and +pennyweights, the sellers often lose at least half an ounce. On one +occasion, out of seven pounds weight, a party once lost an ounce and +three quarters in this manner. There is also the old method of false +beams--one in favour of the purchaser--and here, unless the +seller weighs in both pans, he loses considerably. Another mode of +cheating is to have glass pans resting on a piece of green baize; under +this baize, and beneath the pan which holds the weights, is a wetted +sponge, which causes that pan to adhere to the baize, and consequently +it requires more gold to make it level; this, coupled with the false +reckoning, is ruinous to the digger. In town, the Jews have a system of +robbing a great deal from sellers before they purchase the gold-dust +(for in these instances it must be DUST): it is thrown into a zinc pan +with slightly raised sides, which are well rubbed over with grease; and +under the plea of a careful examination, the purchaser shakes and rubs +the dust, and a considerable quantity adheres to the sides. A commoner +practice still is for examiners of gold-dust to cultivate long +finger-nails, and, in drawing the fingers about it, gather some up. + +Sly grog selling is the bane of the diggings. Many--perhaps +nine-tenths--of the diggers are honest industrious men, desirous of +getting a little there as a stepping-stone to independence elsewhere; +but the other tenth is composed of outcasts and transports--the refuse +of Van Diemen's Land--men of the most depraved and abandoned +characters, who have sought and gained the lowest abyss of crime, and +who would a short time ago have expiated their crimes on a scaffold. +They generally work or rob for a space, and when well stocked with +gold, retire to Melbourne for a month or so, living in drunkenness and +debauchery. If, however, their holiday is spent at the diggings, the +sly grog-shop is the last scene of their boisterous career. Spirit +selling is strictly prohibited; and although Government will license a +respectable public-house on the ROAD, it is resolutely refused ON the +diggings. The result has been the opposite of that which it was +intended to produce. There is more drinking and rioting at the diggings +than elsewhere, the privacy and risk gives the obtaining it an +excitement which the diggers enjoy as much as the spirit itself; and +wherever grog is sold on the sly, it will sooner or later be the scene +of a riot, or perhaps murder. Intemperance is succeeded by quarrelling +and fighting, the neighbouring tents report to the police, and the +offenders are lodged in the lock-up; whilst the grog-tent, spirits, +wine, &c., are seized and taken to the Commissioners. Some of +the stores, however, manage to evade the law rather cleverly--as +spirits are not SOLD, "my friend" pays a shilling more for his fig of +tobacco, and his wife an extra sixpence for her suet; and they smile at +the store-man, who in return smiles knowingly at them, and then glasses +are brought out, and a bottle produced, which sends forth NOT a +fragrant perfume on the sultry air. + +It is no joke to get ill at the diggings; doctors make you pay for it. +Their fees are--for a consultation, at their own tent, ten shillings; +for a visit out, from one to ten pounds, according to time and +distance. Many are regular quacks, and these seem to flourish best. The +principal illnesses are weakness of sight, from the hot winds and sandy +soil, and dysentery, which is often caused by the badly-cooked food, +bad water, and want of vegetables. + +The interior of the canvas habitation of the digger is desolate enough; +a box on a block of wood forms a table, and this is the only furniture; +many dispense with that. The bedding, which is laid on the ground, +serves to sit upon. Diogenes in his tub would not have looked more +comfortless than any one else. Tin plates and pannicans, the +same as are used for camping up, compose the breakfast, dinner, and tea +service, which meals usually consist of the same dishes--mutton, +damper, and tea. + +In some tents the soft influence of our sex is pleasingly apparent: the +tins are as bright as silver, there are sheets as well as blankets on +the beds, and perhaps a clean counterpane, with the addition of a dry +sack or piece of carpet on the ground; whilst a pet cockatoo, chained +to a perch, makes noise enough to keep the "missus" from feeling lonely +when the good man is at work. Sometimes a wife is at first rather a +nuisance; women get scared and frightened, then cross, and commence a +"blow up" with their husbands; but all their railing generally ends in +their quietly settling down to this rough and primitive style of +living, if not without a murmur, at least to all appearance with the +determination to laugh and bear it. And although rough in their +manners, and not over select in their address, the digger seldom +wilfully injures a woman; in fact, a regular Vandemonian will, in his +way, play the gallant with as great a zest as a fashionable about town +--at any rate, with more sincerity of heart. + +Sunday is kept at the diggings in a very orderly manner; and +among the actual diggers themselves, the day of rest is taken in a +VERBATIM sense. It is not unusual to have an established clergyman +holding forth near the Commissioners' tent and almost within hearing +will be a tub orator expounding the origin of evil, whilst a "mill" (a +fight with fisticuffs) or a dog fight fills up the background. + +But night at the diggings is the characteristic time: murder here-- +murder there--revolvers cracking--blunderbusses bombing--rifles +going off--balls whistling--one man groaning with a broken leg-- +another shouting because he couldn't find the way to his hole, and a +third equally vociferous because he has tumbled into one--this man +swearing--an other praying--a party of bacchanals chanting various +ditties to different time and tune, or rather minus both. Here is one +man grumbling because he has brought his wife with him, another ditto +because he has left his behind, or sold her for an ounce of gold or a +bottle of rum. Donnybrook Fair is not to be compared to an evening at +Bendigo. + +Success at the diggings is like drawing lottery tickets--the +blanks far outnumber the prizes; still, with good health, strength, and +above all perseverance, it is strange if a digger does not in the end +reap a reward for his labour. Meanwhile, he must endure almost +incredible hardships. In the rainy season, he must not murmur if +compelled to work up to his knees in water, and sleep on the wet +ground, without a fire, in the pouring rain, and perhaps no shelter +above him more waterproof than a blanket or a gum tree; and this not +for once only, but day after day, night after night. In the summer, he +must work hard under a burning sun, tortured by the mosquito and the +little stinging March flies, or feel his eyes smart and his throat grow +dry and parched, as the hot winds, laden with dust, pass over him. How +grateful now would be a draught from some cold sparkling streamlet; +but, instead, with what sort of water must he quench his thirst? Much +the same, gentle reader, as that which runs down the sides of a dirty +road on a rainy day, and for this a shilling a bucket must be paid. +Hardships such as these are often the daily routine of a digger's life; +yet, strange to say, far from depressing the spirits or weakening the +frame, they appear in most cases to give strength and energy to +both. This is principally owing to the climate, which even in the wet +season is mild and salubrious. + +Perhaps nothing will speak better for the general order that prevails +at the diggings, than the small amount of physical force maintained +there by Government to keep some thousands of persons of all ages, +classes, characters, religions and countries in good humour with the +laws and with one another. The military force numbers 130, officers and +men; the police about 300. + +The Government escort is under the control of Mr. Wright, Chief +Commissioner; it consists of about forty foot and sixty mounted police, +with the usual complement of inspectors and sergeants; their uniform is +blue--with white facings, their head-quarters are by the +Commissioners' tent, Forest Creek. + +The private escort uniform is a plain blue frock coat and trowsers. It +is under the superintendence of Mr. Wilkinson; the head-quarters are at +Montgomery Hill, Forest Creek. Both these escorts charge one per cent +for conveying gold. + +For the Victoria diggings, there is a Chief Commissioner, one +Acting Resident Commissioner; one Assistant Commissioner at Ballarat, +one at Fryer's Creek, five at Forest Creek, and six at Bendigo. + +Provision is made by Government for the support, at the mines, of two +clergymen of each of the four State paid churches of England, Scotland, +Rome, and Wesleyan, at a salary of 300 pounds a year. + + + + +Chapter VII. + + + +EAGLE HAWK GULLY + + +Before commencing an account of our operations at the Eagle Hawk, it +will be necessary to write a few words in description of our +gold-digging party there; their Christian names will be sufficient +distinction, and will leave their incognito undisturbed. + +This party, as I have said before, consisted of five gentlemen, +including my brother. Of the latter I shall only say that he was young +and energetic, more accustomed to use his brains than his fingers, yet +with a robust frame, and muscles well strengthened by the various +exercises of boating, cricketing, &c., with which our embryo +collegians attempt to prepare themselves for keeping their "terms." + +Frank ------ (who, from being a married man, was looked up to as the head +of our rather juvenile party) was of a quiet and sedate disposition, +rather given to melancholy, for which in truth he had cause. His +marriage had taken place without the sanction--or rather in defiance of +the wishes--of his parents, for his wife was portionless, and in a +station a few grades, as they considered, below his own; moreover, +Frank himself was not of age. Private income, independent of his +parents, he had none. A situation as clerk in a merchant's office was +his only resource, and during three years he had eked out his salary to +support a delicate wife--whose ill health was a neverfailing source of +anxiety and expense--two infants, and himself. An unexpected legacy of +500 pounds from a distant relative at last seemed to open a brighter +prospect before them; and leaving his wife and children with their +relatives, he quitted England to seek in a distant land a better home than +all his exertions could procure for them in their own country. I never +felt surprised or offended at his silent and preoccupied manner, +accompanied at times by great depression of spirits, for it was an +awful responsibility for one so young, brought up as he had been in the +greatest luxury, as the eldest son of a wealthy merchant, to have not +only himself but others nearest and dearest to maintain by his own +exertions. + +William -----, a tall, slight, and rather delicate looking man, is the +next of our party whom I shall mention. His youth had been passed at +Christ's Hospital. This he quitted with the firm conviction (in which +all his friends of course participated) that he had been greatly +wronged by not having been elected a Grecian; and a rich uncle, incited +by the beforementioned piece of injustice, took him under his care, and +promised to settle him in the world as soon as a short apprenticeship +to business had been gone through. A sudden illness put a stop to all +these schemes. The physicians recommended change of air, a warmer +climate, a trip to Australia. William had relatives residing in +Melbourne, so the journey was quickly decided upon, a cabin taken; and +the invalid rapidly recovering beneath the exhilarating effects of the +sea-breezes. How refreshing are they to the sick! how caressingly does +the soft sea-air fan the wan cheeks of those exhausted with a life +passed amidst the brick walls and crowded, noisy streets of a city; +and William, who at first would have laughed at so ridiculous a +supposition, ere the four months' voyage was terminated, had gained +strength and spirits sufficient to make him determine to undertake a +trip to the diggings. + +He was a merry light-hearted fellow, fonder of a joke than hard work, +yet ever keeping a sharp eye to the "main chance," as the following +anecdote will prove. + +One day during our stay in Melbourne he came to me, and said, laughing: + +"Well! I've got rid of one of the bad HABITS I had on board the ----." + +"Which?" was my reply. + +"That old frock-coat I used to wear in the cold weather whilst we +rounded the Cape. A fellow down at Liardet's admired the cut, asked me +to sell it. I charged him four guineas, and walked into town in my +shirt-sleeves; soon colonized, eh?" + +Richard ------ was a gay young fellow of twenty, the only son of a rich +member of the stock Exchange. In a fit of spleen, because the +parental regulations required him always to be at home by midnight, he +shipped himself off to Australia, trusting that so energetic a step +"would bring the govenor to his senses." He was music-mad, and appeared +to know every opera by heart, and wearied us out of all patience with +his everlasting humming of "Ciascun lo dice" "Non piu mesta," &c. + +Octavius ------ was the eighth son of a poor professional man, who, after +giving him a good general education, sent him with a small capital to +try his fortune in the colonies. For this he was in every way well +fitted, being possessed of a strong constitution, good common sense, +and simple inexpensive habits; he was only nineteen, and the youngest +of the male portion of our party. + +The day after our arrival at the diggings, being Sunday, we passed in +making ourselves comfortable, and devising our future plans. We +determined to move from our present quarters, and pitch our tents +higher up the gully, near Montgomery's store. This we accomplished the +first thing on Monday morning and at about a hundred yards from us our +four shipmates also fixed themselves, which added both to our +comfort and security. + +A few words for their introduction. + +One of them was a Scotchman, who wished to make enough capital at the +mines to invest in a sheep-run; and as his countrymen are proverbially +fortunate in the colonies, I think it possible he may some time hence +be an Australian MILLIONAIRE. Another of these was an architect, who +was driven, as it were, to the diggings, because his profession, from +the scarcity of labour, was at the time almost useless in Melbourne. +The third was, or rather had been, a house-painter and decorator, who +unfortunately possessed a tolerably fine voice, which led him gradually +to abandon a good business to perform at concerts. Too late he found +that he had dropped the substance for the shadow; emigration seemed his +only resource; so leaving a wife and large family behind, he brought +his mortified vanity and ruined fortunes to begin the world anew with +in Australia. He was the only one whose means prevented him from taking +a share in our venture; but to avoid confusion, the Scotchman +subscribed twice the usual sum, thus securing double Profits. +The fourth was a gentleman farmer, whose sole enemy, by his account, +was Free Trade, and who held the names Cobden and Bright in utter +detestation. + +As soon as the tents were pitched, all set to work to unpack the dray: +and after taking out sufficient flour, sugar, tea, &c., for use, the +remainder of the goods were taken to the nearest store, where they were +sold at an average of five times their original costs: the most +profitable portion of the cargo consisted of some gunpowder and +percusion-caps. The day after, by good fortune, we disposed of the dray +and horses for 250 pounds, being only 40 pounds less than we paid for +them. As the cost of keeping horses at the diggings is very great +(sometimes two or three pounds a day per head), besides the constant risk +of their being lost or stolen, we were well satisfied with the bargain; +and never did mind young speculators, who five months previous had been +utter strangers, accomplish their undertaking to themselves, or less +disagreement one with another. + +This business settled, the next was to procure licences, which +was a walk of nearly five miles to the Commissioners' tent, Bendigo, +and wasted the best part of Wednesday. + +Meanwhile we were Seriously debating about again changing our quarters. +We found it almost impossible to sleep. Never before could I have +imagined that a woman's voice could utter sounds sufficiently +discordant to drive repose far from us, yet so it was. + +The gentlemen christened her "the amiable female." + +The tent of this "amiable" personage was situated at right angles with +ours and our shipmates, so that the annoyance was equally felt. Whilst +her husband was at work farther down the gully, she kept a sort of sly +grog-shop, and passed the day in selling and drinking spirits, +swearing, and smoking a short tobacco-pipe at the door of her tent. She +was a most repulsive looking object. A dirty gaudy-coloured dress hung +unfastened about her shoulders, coarse black hair unbrushed, uncombed, +dangled about her face, over which her evil habits had spread a +genuine bacchanalian glow, whilst in a loud masculine voice she uttered +the most awful words that ever disgraced the mouth of man ten +thousand times more awful when proceeding from a woman's lips. + +But night was the dreadful time; then, if her husband had been unlucky, +or herself made fewer profits during the day, it was misery to be +within earshot; so much so, that we decided to leave so uncomfortable a +neighbourhood without loss of time, and carrying our tents, &c., higher +up the gully we finally pitched them not far from the Portland Stores. + +This was done on Thursday, and the same evening two different claims +were marked out ready to commence working the next day. These claims +were the usual size, eight feet square. + +FRIDAY, 24.--Early this morning our late travelling companion, Joe, made +his appearance with a sack (full of bran, he said,) on his shoulders. +After a little confidential talk with William, he left the sack in our +tent, as he had no other safe place to stow it away in till the bran +was sold. This gave rise to no suspicion, and in the excitement of +digging was quite forgotten. + +About noon I contrived to have a damper and a large joint of baked +mutton ready for the "day labourers," as they styled themselves. The +mutton was baked in a large camp oven suspended from three iron bars, +which were fixed in the ground in the form of a triangle, about a yard +apart, and were joined together at the top, at which part the oven was +hung over a wood fire. This grand cooking machine was, of course, +outside the tent. Sometimes I have seen a joint of meat catch fire in +one of these ovens, and it is difficult to extinguish it before the fat +has burnt itself away, when the meat looks like a cinder. + +Our butcher would not let us have less than half a sheep at a time, for +which we paid 8s. I was not good housekeeper enough to know how much it +weighed, but the meat was very good. Flour was then a shilling a pound, +or two hundred pounds weight for nine pounds in money. Sugar was 1s. +6d., and tea 3s. 6d. Fortunately we were Well provided with these three +latter articles. + +The hungry diggers did ample justice to the dinner I had provided for +them. They brought home a tin-dish full of surface soil, which in +the course of the afternoon I attempted to wash. + +Tin-dish-washing is difflcult to describe. It requires a watchful eye +and a skilful hand; it is the most mysterious department of the +gold-digging business. The tin dish (which, of course, is round) is +generally about eighteen inches across the top, and twelve across the +bottom, with sloping sides of three or four inches deep. The one I used +was rather smaller. Into it I placed about half the "dirt"--digger's +technical term for earth, or soil--that they had brought, filled the +dish up with water, and then with a thick stick commenced making it +into a batter; this was a most necessary commencement, as the soil was +of a very stiff clay. I then let this batter--I know no name more +appropriate for it--settle, and carefully poured off the water at the +top. I now added some clean water, and repeated the operation of mixing +it up; and after doing this several times, the "dirt," of course, +gradually diminishing, I was overjoyed to see a few bright specks, which +I carefully picked out, and with renewed energy continued this by no +means elegant work. Before the party returned to tea I had washed out all +the stuff, and procured from it nearly two pennyweights of gold-dust, +worth about 6s. or 7s. + +Tin-dish-washing is generally done beside a stream, and it is +astonishing how large a quantity of "dirt" those who have the knack of +doing it well and quickly can knock off in the course of the day. To do +this, however, requires great manual dexterity, and much gold is lost +by careless washing. A man once extracted ten pounds weight of the +precious metal from a heap of soil which his mate had washed too +hurriedly. + +In the evening Joe made his re-appearance, carrying another sack on his +shoulders, which contained a number of empty bottles, and now for the +first time we became initiated into the BRAN mystery which had often +puzzled us on the road--it seemed so strange a thing to carry up to the +diggings. Joe laughed at our innocence, and denied having told us +anything approaching a falsehood; a slight suppression of the truth was +all he would plead guilty to. I verily believe William had put him up +to this dodge, to make us smile when we should have felt annoyed. Being +taxed with deceit, said he: "I told you two-thirds truth; there +wanted but two more letters to make it BRANDY," and with the greatest +SANG-FROID he drew out a small keg of brandy from the first sack and +half-filled the bottles with the spirit, after which he filled them all +up to the neck with water. The bottles were then corked, and any or all +of them politely offered to us at the rate of 30s a piece. We declined +purchasing, but he sold them all during the evening, for which we were +rather glad, as, had they been discovered by the officials in our tent, +a fine of 50 pounds would have been the consequence of our foolish +comrades good-nature and joke-loving propensities. + +We afterwards found that Master Joe had played the same trick with our +shipmates and with the two doctors, who had bought a tent and settled +themselves near our old place by Montgomery's store. + +SATURDAY, 25.--The two holes were "bottomed" before noon with no paying +result. It had been hard work, and they were rather low-spirited about +it. The rest of the day they spent in washing some surface-soil, and +altogether collected about I ounce and a half of gold-dust, +counting the little I had washed out on the Friday. In the evening it +was all dried by being placed in a spade over a quick fire. We had +before determined to square accounts and divide the gold every Saturday +night, but this small quantity was not worth the trouble, so it was +laid by in the digger's usual treasury, a German match-box. These round +boxes hold on an average eight ounces of gold. + +These two unproductive holes had not been very deep. The top, or +surface soil, for which a spade or shovel is used, was of clay. This +was succeeded by a strata almost as hard as iron--technically called +"burnt stuff,"--which robbed the pick of its points nearly as soon as the +blacksmith had steeled them at a charge of 2s. 6d. a point. Luckily for +their arms, this strata was but thin, and the yellow or blue clay which +followed was comparatively easy work--here and there an awkward lump of +quartz required the use of the. pick. Suddenly they came to some +glittering particles of yellow, which, with heartfelt delight they +hailed as gold. It WAS MICA. Many are at first deceived by it, but it +is soon distinguished by its weight, as the mica will blow away with +the slightest puff. After a little useless digging among the +clay, they reached the solid rock, and thus having fairly "bottomed," +the holes to no purpose, they abandoned them. + +SUNDAY, 26.--Although impossible at the diggings to keep this day with +those outward observances which are customary in civilized life, we +attempted to make as much difference as possible between the day of +rest and that of work. Frank performed the office of chaplain, and read +the morning service in the calm and serious manner which we expected +from him. + +I was rather amused to see the alacrity with which, when this slight +service was over, they all prepared to assist me in the formation of a +huge plum-pudding for the Sunday's dinner. Stoning plums and chopping +suet seemed to afford them immense pleasure--I suppose it was a +novelty; and, contrary to the fact implied in the old adage, "too many +cooks spoil the broth" our pudding turned out A1. + +In the afternoon we strolled about, and paid a visit to our shipmates. +I was certainly most agreeably surprised by the quiet and order that +everywhere prevailed. + +MONDAY, 27.--Today our party commenced "sinking" in a new spot at some +little distance. The first layer of black soil was removed, and on some +being washed in a tin dish, it was found to contain a tolerable portion +of gold, and was pronounced to be worth transporting to the tent to be +regularly cradled. My first official notice of this fact was from +Richard, who entered the tent humming "Suona la tromba," with a bucket +full of this heavy soil in each hand. He broke off in the middle of his +song to ask for some water to drink, and grumbled most energetically at +such dirty work. He then gave me an account of the morning's doings. +After a thin layer of the black surface soil, it appeared they had come +to a strata of thick yellow clay, in which gold was often very +abundant. This soil, from being so stiff, would require "puddling," a +work of which he did not seem to relish the anticipation. Before the +day was over, a great number of buckets full of both soils were brought +up and deposited in heaps near the tents. All, with the exception of +the "operatic" Richard, seemed in good spirits, and were well satisfied +with what had been done in so short a time. + +In the evening the other party of our shipmates arrived, and were busy +fixing their tent at a distance of about forty yards from us. Frank and +the other four, though pretty tired with the days labour, lent a +helping hand, the united efforts of nine speedily accomplished this +business, after which an immense quantity of cold mutton, damper, and +tea made a rapid disappearance, almost emptying my larder, which, by +the bye, was an old tea-chest. + +We asked our friends their motive for leaving the old spot, and they +declared they could stand the "amiable female" no longer; she grew +worse and worse. "Her tongue was sich" observed the Scotchman, "as wad +drive ony puir beastie wild." She had regularly quarrelled with the two +doctors because they would not give her a written certificate, that the +state of her health required the constant use of spirits. She offered them +two guineas for it, which they indignantly refused, and she then declared +her intention of injuring their pracitce as much as possible, which she +had power to do, as her tent was of an evening quite the centre of +attraction and her influence proportionably great. Pity 'tis that such a +woman should be able to mar or make the fortunes of her fellow +creatures. + +TUESDAY, 28.--The holes commenced yeserday were duly "bottomed," but no +nice pocket-full of gold was the result; our shipmates, however, met +with better success, having found three small nuggets weighing two to +four ounces each at a depth of not quite five feet from the surface. + +WEDNESDAY, 29.--To-day was spent in puddling and cradling. + +Puddling is on the same principle as tin-dish-washing, only on a much +larger scale. Great wooden tubs are filled with the dirt and fresh +water, and the former is chopped about in all directions with a spade, +so as to set the metal free from the adhesive soil and pipe-clay. +Sometimes I have seen energetic diggers tuck up their trowsers, off +with their boots, step into the tub, and crush it about with their feet +in the same manner as tradition affirms that the London bakers knead +their bread. Every now and again the dirtied water is poured off +gently, and with a fresh supply, which is furnished by a mate with a +long-handled dipper from the stream or pool, you puddle away. The +great thing is, not to be afraid Of over-work, for the better +the puddling is, so much the more easy and profitable is the cradling. +After having been well beaten in the tubs, the "dirt" is put into the +hopper of the cradle, which is then rocked gently, whilst another party +keeps up a constant supply of fresh water. In the right hand of the +cradler is held a thick stick, ready to break up any clods which may be +in the hopper, but which a good puddler would not have sent there. + +There was plenty of water near us, for a heavy rain during the night +had filled several vacated holes, and as there were five pair of hands, +we hoped, before evening, greatly to diminish our mud-heaps. + +Now for an account of our proceedings. + +Two large wooden tubs were firmly secured in the ground and four set to +work puddling, whilst Frank busied himself in fixing the cradle. He +drove two blocks into the ground; they were grooved for the rockers of +the cradle to rest in, so as to let it rock with ease and regularity. +The ground was lowered so as to give the cradle a slight slant, and +thus enable the water to run off more quickly. If a cradle dips +too much, a little gold may wash off with the light sand. The cradling +machine, though simple in itself, is rather difficult to describe. In +shape and size it resembles an infant's cradle, and over that portion +of it where, if for a baby, a hood would be, is a perforated plate with +wooden sides, a few inches high all round, forming a sort of box with +the perforated plate for a bottom; this box is called the hopper. The +dirt is here placed, and the constant supply of water, after well +washing the stuff, runs out through a hole made at the foot of the +cradle. The gold generally rests on a wooden shelf under the hopper, +though sometimes a good deal will run down with the water and dirt into +one of the compartments at the bottom, and to separate it from the sand +or mud, tin-dish-washing is employed. + +As soon as sufficient earth was ready, one began to rock, and another +to fill the hopper with water. Richard continued puddling, William, +enacted Aquarius for him, whilst a fifth was fully occupied in +conveying fresh dirt to the tubs, and taking the puddled stuff from +them to the hopper of the cradle. Every now and then a, change of hands +was made, and thus passed the day. In the evening, the products +were found to be one small nugget weighing a quarter of an ounce, and +in gold-dust eight pennyweights, ten grains, being worth, at the +digging price for gold, about thirty-five shillings. This was rather +less than we hard less calculated upon, and Richard signified his +intention of returning to Melbourne, "He could no longer put up with +such ungentlemanly work in so very unintellectual a neighbourhood, with +bad living into the bargain." These last words, which were pronounced +SOTTO VOCE, gave us a slight clue to the real cause of his dislike to +the diggings, though we, did not thoroughly understand it till next +morning. It originated in some bottles of mixed pickles which he had in +vain wanted Frank, who this week was caterer for the party, to purchase +at four shillings a bottle, which sum, as we were all on economical +thoughts intent, Frank refused to expend on any unnecessary article of +food. This we learnt next morning at breakfast, when Richard +congratulated himself on that being the last meal he should make of +tea, damper and muton, without the latter having something to render it +eatable. The puddling and cradling work had, I fancy, given the +finishing stroke to his disgust. Poor Dick! he met with little +commiseration: we could not but remember the thousands in the old +country who would have rejoiced at the simple fare he so much despised. +William, in his laughing way, observed, "that he was too great a pickle +himself, without buying fresh ones." + +Richard left us on Thursday morning, and with him went one of the other +party, the house-painter and decorator, who also found gold-digging not +so Pleasant as he had expected. We afterwards learnt that before +reaching Kilmore they separated. Richard arrived safely in Melbourne, +and entered a goldbroker's office at a salary of three pounds a week, +which situation I believe he now fills; and as "the governor," to use +Richard's own expression, "has not yet come to his senses," he must +greatly regret having allowed his temper to be the cause of his leaving +the comforts of home. His companion, who parted with Richard at +Kilmore, was robbed of what little gold he had, and otherwise +maltreated, whilst passing through the Black Forest. On reaching +Melbourne, he sold everything he possessed, and that not being +sufficient, he borrowed enough to pay his passage back to +England, where, doubtless, he will swell the number of those whose lack +of success in the colonies, and vituperations against them, are only +equalled by their unfitness ever to have gone there. + +Thursday was past in puddling and cradling, with rather better results +than on the first day, still it was not to our satisfaction, and on +Friday two pits were sunk. one was shallow, and the bottom reached +without a speck of gold making its appearance. The other was left over +till the next morning. This was altogether very disheartening work, +particularly as the expenses of living were not small. There were many, +however, much worse off than ourselves, though here and there a lucky +digger excited the envy of all around him. Many were the tricks +resorted to in order to deceive new-comers. Holes were offered for +sale, in which the few grains that were carefully placed in sight was +all that the buyer gained by his purchase. + +A scene of this description was enacted this Friday evening, at a +little distance from us. The principal actors in it were two in number. +One sat a little way from his hole with a heap of soil by his +side, and a large tin dish nearly full of dirt in his hand. As he +swayed the dish to and fro in the process of washing, an immense +number of small nuggets displayed themselves, which fact in a loud tone +he announced to his "mate", at the same time swearing at him for +keeping at work so late in the evening. This digger, who was shovelling +up more dirt from the hole, answered in the same elegant language, +calling him an "idle good-for-nought." Every now and then he threw a +small nugget to the tin-dish-washer, loudly declaring, "he'd not leave +off while them bright bits were growing thick as taters underground." + +"Then be d----d if I don't!" shouted the other;" and I'll sell the hole +for two hundred yeller boys down." + +This created a great sensation among the bystanders, who during the +time had collected round, and among whom was a party of three, +evidently "new chums." + +"It shall go for a hundred and fifty!" again shouted the washer, giving +a glance in the direction in which they stood. + +"Going for a hundred, tin-dish as well!" letting some of the +water run off, and displaying the gold. + +This decided the matter, and one of the three stepped forward and +offered the required sum. + +"Money down," said the seller; "these here fellers 'll witness it's all +reg'lar." + +The money was paid in notes, and the purchasers were about to commence +possession by taking the tin-dish out of his hand. + +"Wait till he's emptied. I promised yer the dish, but not the stuff in +it," and turning out the dirt into a small tub the two worthies +departed, carrying the tub away with them. + +Not a grain of gold did the buyers find in the pit next morning. + +SATURDAY, OCTOBER 2.--This day found the four hard at work at an early +hour, and words will not describe our delight when they hit upon a +"pocket" full of the precious metal. The "pocket was situated in a dark +corner of the hole, and William was the one whose fossicking-knife +first brought its hidden beauties to light. Nugget after nugget did +that dirty soil give up; by evening they had taken out five +pounds weight of gold. Foolish Richard! we all regretted his absence at +this discovery. + +As the next day was the Sabbath, thirty-six hours of suspense must +elapse before we could know whether this was but a passing kindness +from the fickle goddess, or the herald of continued good fortune. + +This night, for the first time, we were really in dread of an attack, +though we had kept our success quite secret, not even mentioning it to +our shipmates; nor did we intend to do so until Monday morning, when +our first business would be to mark out three more claims round the +lucky spot, and send our gold down to the escort-office for security. +For the present we were obliged to content ourselves with "planting" +it--that is, burying it in the ground; and not a footstep passed in our +neighbourhood without our imagining ourselves robbed of the precious +treasure, and as it was Saturday night--the noisiest and most riotous at +the diggings--our panics were neither few nor far between. So true it is +that riches entail trouble and anxiety on their possessor. + + + + +Chapter VIII. + + + +AN ADVENTURE + + +SUNDAY 3.--A fine morning. After our usual service Frank, my brother, +and myself, determined on an exploring expedition, and off we went, +leaving the dinner in the charge of the others. We left the busy throng +of the diggers far behind us, and wandered into spots where the sound +of the pick and shovel, or the noise of human traffic, had never +penetrated. The scene and the day were in unison; all was harmonious, +majestic, and serene. Those mighty forests, hushed in a sombre and +awful silence; those ranges of undulating hill and dale never yet +trodden by the foot of man; the soft still air, so still that +it left every leaf unruffled, flung an intensity of awe over our +feelings, and led us from the contemplation of nature to worship +nature's God. + +We sat in silence for some while deeply impressed by all around us, +and, whilst still sitting and gazing there, a change almost +imperceptibly came over the face of both earth and sky. The forest +swayed to and fro, a sighing moaning sound was borne upon the wind, and +a noise as of the rush of waters, dark massive clouds rolled over the +sky till the bright blue heavens were completely hidden, and then, ere +we had recovered from our first alarm and bewilderment, the storm in +its unmitigated fury burst upon us. The rain fell in torrents, and we +knew not where to turn. + +Taking me between them, they succeeded in reaching an immense shea-oak, +under which we hoped to find some shelter till the violence of the rain +had diminished; nor where we disappointed, though it was long before we +could venture to leave our place of refuge. At length however, we did +so, and endeavoured to find our way back to Eagle Hawk Gully. Hopeless +task! The ground was so slippery, it was as much as we could do +to walk without falling; the mud and dirt clung to our boots, and a +heavy rain beat against our faces and nearly blinded us. + +"It is clearing up to windward," observed Frank; "another half-hour and +the rain will be all but over; let us return to our tree again." + +We did so. Frank was correct; in less than the time he had specified a +slight drizzling rain was all of the storm that remained. + +With much less difficulty we again attempted to return home, but before +very long we made the startling discovery that we had completely lost +our way, and to add to our misfortune the small pocket-compass, which +Frank had brought with him, and which would have now so greatly +assisted us, was missing, most probably dropped from his pocket during +the skirmish to get under shelter. We still wandered along till stopped +by the shades of evening, which came upon us--there is little or no +twilight in Australia. + +We seated ourselves upon the trunk of a fallen tree, wet, hungry, and, +worst of all, ignorant of where we were. Shivering with cold, +and our wet garments hanging most uncomfortably around us, we +endeavoured to console one another by reflecting that the next morning +we could not fail to reach our tents. The rain had entirely ceased, and +providentially for us the night was pitch dark--I say providentially, +because after having remained for two hours in this wretched plight a +small light in the distance became suddenly visible to us all, so +distant, that but for the intensity of the darkness it might have +passed unnoticed. "Thank God!" simultaneously burst from our lips. + +"Let us hasten there," cried Frank, "a whole night like this may be +your sister's death and would ruin the constitution of a giant." + +To this we gladly acceded, and were greatly encouraged by perceiving +that the light remained stationary. But it was a perilous undertaking. +Luckily my brother had managed to get hold of a long stick with which +he sounded the way, for either large stones or water-holes would have +been awkward customers in the dark; wonderful to relate we escaped +both, and when within hailing distance of the light, which we perceived +came from a torch hold by some one, we shouted with all our +remaining strength, but without diminishing our exertions to reach it. +Soon--with feelings that only those who have encountered similar dangers +can understand--answering voices fell upon our ears. Eagerly we pressed +forward, and in the excitement of the moment we relinquished all hold +of one another, and attempted to wade through the mud singly. + +"Stop! halt!" shouted more than one stentorian voice; but the warning +came too late. My feet slipped--a sharp pain succeeded by a sudden +chill--a feeling of suffocation--of my head being ready to burst--and I +remembered no more. + +When I recovered consciousness it was late in the morning, for the +bright sun shone upon the ground through the crevices of a sail cloth +tent, and so different was all that met my eyes to the dismal scene +through which I had so lately passed, and which yet haunted my memory, +that I felt that sweet feeling of relief which we experience when, +waking from some horrid vision, we become convinced how unsubstantial +are its terrors, and are ready to smile at the pain they excited. + +That I was in a strange place became quickly evident, and among the +distant hum of voices which ever and anon broke the silence not one +familiar tone could I recognize. I endeavoured to raise myself so as to +hear more distinctly, and then it was that an acute pain in the ankle +of the right foot, gave me pretty strong evidence as to the reality of +the last night's adventures. I was forced to lie down again, but not +before I had espied a hand-bell which lay within reach on a small +barrel near my bed. Determined as far as possible to fathom the +mystery, I rang a loud peal with it, not doubting but what it would +bring my brother to me. My surprise and delight may be easier imagined +than described, when, as though in obedience to my summons, I saw a +small white hand push aside the canvas at one corner of the tent, and +one of my own sex entered. + +She was young and fair; her step was soft and her voice most musically +gentle. Her eyes were a deep blue, and a rich brown was the colour of +her hair, which she wore in very short curls all round her head and +parted on one side, which almost gave her the appearance of a pretty +boy. + +These little particulars I noticed afterwards; at that time I only felt +that her gentle voice and kind friendliness of manner inexpressibly +soothed me. + +After having bathed my ankle, which I found to be badly sprained and +cut, she related, as far as she was acquainted with them, the events +the previous evening. I learnt that these tents belonged to a party +from England, of one of whom she was the wife, and the tent in which I +lay was her apartment. They had not been long at the diggings, and +preferred the spot where they were to the more frequented parts. + +The storm of yesterday had passed over them without doing much damage, +and as their tents were well painted over the tops, they managed to +keep themselves tolerably dry; but later in the evening, owing to the +softness of the ground, one of the side-posts partly gave way, which +aroused them all, and torches were lit, and every one busied in trying +to prop it up till morning. Whilst thus engaged they heard our voices +calling for help. They answered, at the same time getting ready some +more torches before, advancing to meet us, as there were +several pit-holes between us and them. Their call for us to remain +stationary came too late to save me from slipping into one of their +pits, thereby spraining my ankle and otherwise hurting myself, besides +being buried to my forehead in mud and water. The pit was not quite +five feet deep, but, unfortunately for myself in this instance, I +belong to the pocket edition of the feminine sex. They soon extricated +me from this perilous situation, and carried me to their tents, where, +by the assistance of my new friend, I was divested of the mud that +still clung to me, and placed into bed. + +Before morning the storm, which we all thought had passed over, burst +forth with redoubled fury; the flashes of lightning were succeeded by +loud peals of thunder, and the rain came splashing down. Their tents +were situated on a slight rise, or they would have run great risk of +being washed away; every hole was filled with water, and the shea-oak, +of whose friendly shelter we had availed ourselves the evening before, +was struck by lightning, shivered into a thousand pieces. After a while +the storm abated, and the warm sun and a drying wind were quickly +removing all traces of it. + +Frank and my brother, after an early breakfast, had set out for Eagle +Hawk Gully under the guidance of my fair friend's husband, who knew the +road thither very well; it was only three miles distant. He was to +bring back with him a change of clothing for me, as his wife had +persuaded my brother to leave me in her charge until I had quite +recovered from the effects of the accident, "which he more readily +promised," she observed, "as we are not quite strangers, having met +once before." + +This awakened my curiosity, and I would not rest satisfied till fully +acquainted with the how, when, and where. Subsequently she related to +me some portion of the history of her life, which it will be no breach +of confidence to repeat here. + +Short as it is, however, it is deserving of another chapter. + + + + +Chapter IX. + + + +HARRIETTE WALTERS + + +Harriette Walters had been a wife but twelve months, when the sudden +failure of the house in which her husband was a junior partner involved +them in irretrievable ruin, and threw them almost penniless upon the +world. At this time the commercial advantages of Australia, the opening +it afforded for all classes of men, and above all, its immense mineral +wealth, were the subject of universal attention. Mr. Walters' friends +advised him to emigrate, and the small sum saved from the wreck of +their fortune served to defray the expenses of the journey. Harriette, +sorely against her wishes, remained behind with an old maiden +aunt, until her husband could obtain a home for her in the colonies. + +The day of parting arrived; the ship which bore him away disappeared +from her sight, and almost heart-broken she returned to the humble +residence of her sole remaining relative. + +Ere she had recovered from the shock occasioned by her husband's +departure, her aged relation died from a sudden attack of illness, and +Harriette was left alone to struggle with her poverty and her grief. +The whole of her aunt's income had been derived from an annuity, which +of course died with her; and her personal property, when sold, realized +not much more than sufficient to pay a few debts and the funeral +expenses; so that when these last sad duties were performed, Harriette +found herself with a few pounds in her pocket, homeless, friendless, +and alone. + +Her thoughts turned to the distant land, her husband's home, and every +hope was centred in the one intense desire to join him there. The means +were wanting, she had none from whom she could solicit assistance, but +her determination did not fail. She advertized for a situation +as companion to an invalid, or nurse to young children, during the +voyage to Port Philip, provided her passage-money was paid by her +employer. This she soon obtained. The ship was a fast sailer, the winds +were favourable, and by a strange chance she arrived in Melbourne three +weeks before her husband. This time was a great trial to her. Alone and +unprotected in that strange, rough city, without money, without +friends, she felt truly wretched. It was not a place for a female to be +without a protector, and she knew it, yet protector she had none; even +the family with whom she had come out, had gone many miles up the +country. She possessed little money, lodgings and food were at an awful +price, and employment for a female, except of a rough sort, was not +easily procured. + +In this dilemma she took the singular notion into her head of +disguising her sex, and thereby avoiding much of the insult and +annoyance to which an unprotected female would have been liable. Being +of a slight figure, and taking the usual colonial costume--loose +trowsers, a full, blue serge shirt, fastened round the waist by +a leather belt, and a wide-awake--Harriette passed very well for what +she assumed to be--a young lad just arrived from England. She +immediately obtained a light situation near the wharf, where for about +three weeks she worked hard enough at a salary of a pound a week, +board, and permission to sleep in an old tumbledown shed beside the +store. + +At last the long looked-for vessel arrived. That must have been a +moment of intense happiness which restored her to her husband's +arms--for him not unmingled with surprise; he could not at first +recognize her in her new garb. She would hear of no further separation, +and when she learnt he had joined a party for the Bendigo diggings, she +positively refused to remain in Melbourne, and she retained her boyish +dress until their arrival at Bendigo. The party her husband belonged to +had two tents, one of which they readily gave up to the married couple, +as they were only too glad to have the company and in-door assistance +of a sensible, active woman during their spell at the diggings. For the +sake of economy, during the time that elapsed before they could +commence their journey up, all of them lived in the tents which +they pitched on a small rise on the south side of the Yarra. Here it +was that our acquaintance first took place; doubtless, my readers will, +long ere this, have recognized in the hospitable gentleman I +encountered there, my friend's husband, and, in the delicate-looking +youth who had so attracted my attention, the fair Harriette herself. + + * * * * * + +But--REVENONS A NOS MOUTONS. + +On the third day of my visit I was pronounced convalescent, and that +evening my brother and William came to conduct me back to Eagle Hawk +Gully. It was with no little regret that I bade farewell to my new +friend, and I must confess that the pleasure of her society had for the +time made me quite careless as to the quantity of gold our party might +be taking up during my absence. Whilst walking towards our tents, I +heard the full particulars of their work, which I subjoin, so as to +resume the thread of my DIGGING narrative in a proper manner. + +MONDAY.--Much upset by their anxiety occasioned by the non-appearance +the previous evening of Frank, my brother, and myself. The two +former did not reach home till nearly noon, the roads were so heavy. +After dinner all set to work in better spirits; came to the end of the +gold--took out nearly four Pounds weight. + +TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY.--Digging various holes in the vicinity of the +lucky spot, but without success. The other party did the same with no +better result. + +Such were the tidings that I heard after my three days' absence. + +THURSDAY.--To-day was spent in prospecting--that is, searching for a +spot whose geological formation gives some promise of the precious +metal. In the evening, William and Octavius returned with the news that +they had found a place at some, distance from the gully, which they +thought would prove "paying," as they had washed some of the surface +soil, which yielded well. It was arranged that the party be divided +into two, and take alternate days to dig there. + +FRIDAY.--In pursuance of the foregoing plan William and Octavius set +off, carrying a good quantity of dinner and their tools along with +them. They worked hard enough during the day, but only brought +back three pennyweights of gold-dust with them. My brother and Frank +gained a deal more by surface washing at home. + +SATURDAY.--Changed hands. Frank and my brother to the new spot, digging. +Octavius and William surface washing. There results were much the same +as the day before. + +SUNDAY, OCTOBER 10--We took advantage of the fine weather to pay a visit +to Harriette and her party. We found them in excellent spirits, for at +last they had hit upon a rich vein, which had for three days been +yielding an average of four pounds weight a day, and was not yet +exhausted. I say AT LAST, for I have not before mentioned that they had +never obtained more than an ounce of gold altogether, up to the day I +left them. We were sincerely pleased with their good fortune. Harriette +hoped that soon they might be able to leave this wild sort of life, and +purchase a small farm, and once again have a home of their own. This +could not be done near Melbourne, so they meant to go to South +Australia, where any quantity of land may be bought. In THIS colony no +smaller quantity than a square mile--640 acres--is sold by the +Government in one lot; consequently, those whose capital is unequal to +purchase this, go to some other colony, and there invest the wealth +they have acquired in Victoria. + +As we had some idea of leaving Eagle Hawk Gully, I bade Harriette +farewell. We never expected to meet again. It chanced otherwise; but I +must not anticipate. + +Monday and Tuesday were most unprofitably passed in digging holes; and +on Tuesday night we determined to leave the Eagle Hawk, and try our +fortune in some of the neighbouring gullies. + +Wednesday was a bustling day. We sold our tent, tools, cradle, &c., as +we knew plenty were always to be bought of those who, like ourselves, +were changing their place. Had we known what we were about, we should +never have burdened ourselves by bringing so many goods and chattels a +hundred and twenty miles or more up the country; but "experience +teaches." Having parted with all encumbrances, myself excepted, we +started for the Iron Bark Gully. All the gold had been transmitted by +the escort to Melbourne, and one fine nugget, weighing nearly five +ounces, had been sent to Richard. We could not resist the +pleasure of presenting him with it, although by our rules not entitled +to any of the proceeds. + +The following are the rules by which our affairs were regulated. They +were drawn up before leaving Melbourne, and signed by all. Though crude +and imperfect, they were sufficient to preserve complete harmony and +good fellowship between five young men of different character, taste, +and education--a harmony and good fellowship which even Richard's +withdrawal did not interrupt. + +The rules were these: + +1. No one party to be ruler; but every week by turn, one to buy, sell, +take charge of gold, and transact all business matters. + +2. The gold to be divided, and accounts settled every Saturday night. + +3. Any one voluntarily leaving the party, to have one-third of his +original share in the expense of purchasing tent and tools returned to +him, but to have no further claim upon them or upon the gold that may +be found after his withdrawal. Any one dismissed the party for +misconduct, to forfeit all claim upon the joint property. + +4. The party agree to stand by one another in all danger, difficulty, +or illness. + +5. Swearing, gambling, and drinking spirits to be strictly avoided. + +6. Morning service to be read every Sunday morning. + +7. All disputes or appeals from the foregoing rules to be settled by a +majority. + + + + +Chapter X. + + + +IRONBARK GULLY + + +I have said little in description of the Eagle Hawk, for all gullies or +valleys at the diggings bear a strong external resemblance one to +another. This one differed from others only in being much longer and +wider; the sides, as is usually the case in the richest gullies, were +not precipitous, but very gradual; a few mountains closed the +background. The digging was in many places very shallow, and the soil +was sometimes of a clayey description, sometimes very gravelly with +slate bottom, sometimes gravelly with pipeclay bottom, sometimes quite +sandy; in fact, the earth was of all sorts and depths. + +At one time there were eight thousand diggers together in Eagle Hawk +Gully. This was some months before we visited it. During the period of +our stay at Bendigo there were not more than a thousand, and fewer +still in the Iron Bark. The reasons for this apparent desertion were +several. + +The weather continued wet and uncertain, so that many who had gone down +to Melbourne remained there, not yet considering the ground +sufficiently recovered from the effects of the prolonged wet season, +they had no desire to run the risk of being buried alive in their +holes. Many had gone to the Adelaide diggings, of which further +particulars hereafter, and many more had gone across the country to the +Ovens, or, farther still, to the Sydney diggings themselves. According +to digging parlance, "the Turon was looking up," and Bendigo, Mount +Alexander, and Forest Creek were thinned accordingly. But perhaps the +real cause of their desertion arose from the altered state of the +diggings. Some time since one party netted 900 pounds in three weeks; +100 pounds a week was thought nothing wonderful. Four men found one day +seventy-five pounds weight; another party took from the foot of a tree +gold to the value of 2000 pounds. A friend of mine once met a man whom he +knew returning to Melbourne, walking in dusty rags and dirt behind a dray, +yet carrying with him 1,500 pounds worth of gold. In Peg Leg Gully, fifty +and even eighty pounds weight had been taken from holes only three or four +feet deep. At Forest Creek a hole produced sixty pounds weight in one +day, and forty more the day after. From one of the golden gullies a +party took up the incredible quantity of one hundred and ninety-eight +pounds weight in six weeks. These are but two or three instances out of +the many that occurred to prove the richness of this truly auriferous +spot. The consequence may be easily imagined; thousands flocked to +Bendigo. The "lucky bits" were still as numerous, but being +disseminated among a greater number of diggers, it followed that there +were many more blanks than prizes, and the disappointed multitude were +ready to be off to the first new discovery. Small gains were beneath +their notice. I have often heard the miners say that they would rather +spend their last farthing digging fifty holes, even if they found +nothing in them, than "tamely" earn an ounce a day by washing +the surface soil; on the same principle, I suppose, that a gambler +would throw up a small but certain income to be earned by his own +industry, for the uncertain profits of the cue or dice. + +For ourselves, we had nothing to complain about. During the short space +of time that we had been at Eagle Hawk Gully, we had done as well as +one in fifty, and might therefore be classed among the lucky diggers; +but "the more people have, the more they want;" and although the many +pounds weight of the precious metal that our party had "taken up" gave, +when divided, a good round sum a-piece, the avaricious creatures bore +the want of success that followed more unphilosophically than they had +done before the rich "pocketful" of gold had made its appearance. They +would dig none but shallow holes, and a sort of gambling manner of +setting to work replaced the active perseverance they had at first +displayed. + +Some days before we left, Eagle Hawk Gully had been condemned as a +"worthless place," and a change decided on. The when and the +where were fixed much in the following manner: + +"I say, mates," observed William on the evening of the Sunday on which +I had paid my last visit to Harriette, "I say, mates, nice pickings a +man got last week in the Iron Bark--only twenty pounds weight out of one +hole; that's all." + +"Think it's true?" said Octavius, quietly. + +"Of course; likely enough. I propose we pack up our traps, and honour +this said gully with our presence forthwith." + +"Let's inquire first," put in Frank; "it's foolish to change good +quarters on such slight grounds." + +"Good quarters! slight grounds!" cried William; "what next? what would +you have? Good quarters! yes, as far as diggings concerned--whether you +find anything for your digging is another matter. Slight grounds, +indeed! twenty pounds weight in one day! Yes, we ought to inquire; +you're right there, old boy, and the proper place to commence our +inquiries is at the gully itself. Let's be off tomorrow." + +"Wait two days longer," said Octavius "and I am agreeable." + +And this, after a little chaffing between the impatient William and his +more business-like comrades, was satisfactorily arranged. + +Behold us then, on Wednesday the 13th, after having sold all our goods +that were saleable, making our way to the Iron Bark Gully. William +enacted the part of auctioneer, which he did in a manner most +satisfactory to himself, and amusing to his audience; but the things +sold very badly, so many were doing the same. The tents fetched only a +few shillings each, and the tools, cradles, &c., EN MASSE, were knocked +down for half a sovereign. + +The morning was rather cloudy, which made our pedestrian mode of +travelling not so fatiguing as it might have been, had the sun in true +colonial strength been shining upon us. This was very fortunately not +the case, for we more than once mistook our way, and made a long walk +out of a short one--quite a work of supererogation--for the roads were +heavy and tiring enough without adding an extra quantity of them. + +We passed in the close neighbourhood of Sailor's, Californian, +American, Long, and Piccaninny Gullies before reaching our destination. +Most of these gullies are considered ransacked, but a very fair amount +of gold-dust may be obtained in either by the new comer by tin-dish +fossicking in deserted holes. These deserted gullies, as they are +called, contained in each no trifling population, and looked full +enough for comfortable working. What must they have resembled the +summer previous, when some hundreds of people leaving a flat or gully +was but as a handful of sand from the sea-shore! + +Before evening we arrived at the Iron Bark. This gully takes its name +from the splendid trees with which it abounds; and their immense +height, their fluted trunks and massive branches gave them a most +majestic appearance. We paused beneath one in a more secluded part, and +there determined to fix our quarters for the night. The heavy "swags" +were flung upon the ground, and the construction of something +resembling a tent gave them plenty to do; the tomahawks, which they +carried in their belts, were put into immediate requisition, and some +branches of the trees were soon formed into rough tent-poles. The tent, +however, though perhaps as good as could be expected, was +nothing very wonderful after all, being made only of some of the +blankets which our party had brought in their swags. Beneath it I +reposed very comfortably; and, thanks to my fatiguing walk, slept as +soundly as I could possibly have done beneath the roof of a palace. The +four gentlemen wrapped themselves in their blankets, and laid down to +rest upon the ground beside the fire; their only shelter was the +foliage of the friendly tree which spread its branches high above our +heads. + +Next morning William was for settling ourselves in the gully. He wanted +tents, tools, &c., purchased, but by dint of much talking and +reasoning, we persuaded him first to look well about, and judge from +the success of others whether we were likely to do any good by stopping +there. We soon heard the history of the "twenty-pound weight" story. As +Frank and Octavius had at once surmised, it originated in a party who +were desirous to sell their claims and baggage before starting for +Melbourne. I believe they succeeded--there are always plenty of "new +chums" to be caught and taken in--and the report had caused a slight +rush of diggers, old and new, to the gully. Many of these +diggers had again departed, others stayed to give the place a trial; we +were not among the latter. The statements of those who were still +working were anything but satisfactory, and we were all inclined to +push on to Forest Creek. + +Meanwhile, it is Thursday afternoon. All but Frank appear disposed for +a siesta; he alone seems determined on a walk. I offer myself and am +accepted as a companion, and off we go together to explore this new +locality. + +We proceeded up the gully. Deserted holes there were in numbers, many a +great depth, and must have cost a vast amount of manual labour. In some +places the diggers were hard at work, and the blows of the pick, the +splash of water, and the rocking of the cradle made the diggings seem +themselves again. There were several women about, who appeared to take +as active an interest in the work as their "better halves." They may +often be seen cradling with an infant in their arms. A man and a cart +preceeded us up the gully. Every now and again he shouted out in a +stentorian voice that made the welkin ring; and the burden of his cry +was this: + +"'Ere's happles, happles, Vandemonian happles, and them as dislikes the +hiland needn't heat them." + +The admirers of the fertile island must have been very numerous, for +his customers soon made his pippins disappear. + +We passed a butcher's shop, or rather tent, which formed a curious +spectacle. The animals, cut into halves or quarters, were hung round; +no small joints there--half a sheep or none; heads, feet, and skins were +lying about for any one to have for the trouble of picking up, and a +quantity of goods of all sorts and sizes, gridirons, saucepans, +cradles, empty tea-chests, were lying scattered around in all +directions ticketed "for sale." We quickly went on, for it was not a +particularly pleasant sight, and at some distance perceived a quiet +little nook rather out of the road, in which was one solitary tent. We +hastened our steps, and advanced nearer, when we perceived that the +tent was made of a large blanket suspended over a rope, which was tied +from one tree to another. The blanket was fastened into the ground by +large wooden pegs. Near to the opening of the tent, upon a piece of +rock, sat a little girl of about ten years old. By her side was +a quantity of the coarse green gauze of which the diggers' veils are +made. She was working at this so industriously, and her little head was +bent so fixedly over her fingers that she did not notice our approach. +We stood for some minutes silently watching her, till Frank, wishing to +see more of her countenance, clapped his hands noisily together for the +purpose of rousing her. + +She started, and looked up. What a volume of sorrow and of suffering +did those pale features speak! + +Suddenly a look of pleasure flashed over her countenance. She sprang +from her seat, and advancing towards Frank, exclaimed: + +"Maybe you'll be wanting a veil, Sir. I've plenty nice ones, stronger, +better, and cheaper than you'll get at the store. Summer dust's coming, +Sir. You'll want one, won't you? I havn't sold one this week," she +added, almost imploringly, perceiving what she fancied a "no-customer" +look in his face. + +"I'll have one, little girl," he answered in a kindly tone, "and what +price is it to be?" + +"Eighteen pence, Sir, if you'd please be so good." + +Frank put the money into her hand, but returned the veil. This action +seemed not quite to satisfy her; either she did not comprehend what he +meant, or it hurt her self-pride, for she said quickly: + +"I havn't only green veils--p'raps you'd like some candles better--I +makes them too." + +"YOU make them?" said Frank, laughing as he glanced at the little hands +that were still holding the veil for his acceptance. "YOU make them? +Your mother makes the candles, you mean." + +"I have no mother now," said she, with an expression of real melancholy +in her countenance and voice. "I makes the candles and the veils, and +the diggers they buys them of me, cos grandfather's ill, and got nobody +to work for him but me." + +"Where do you and your grandfather live?" I asked. "In there?" pointing +to the blanket tent. + +She nodded her head, adding in a lower tone: + +"He's asleep now. He sleeps more than he did. He's killed hisself +digging for the gold, and he never got none, and he says 'he'll +dig till he dies.'" + +"Dig till he dies." Fit motto of many a disappointed gold-seeker, the +finale of many a broken up, desolated home, the last dying words of +many a husband, far away from wife or kindred, with no loved ones near +to soothe his departing moments--no better burial--place than the very +hole, perchance, in which his last earthly labours were spent. These +were some of the thoughts that rapidly chased one another in my mind as +the sad words and still sadder tone fell upon my ear. + +I was roused by hearing Frank's voice in inquiry as to how she made her +candles, and she answered all our questions with a child-like NAIVETE, +peculiarly her own. She told us how she boiled down the fat--how once it +had caught fire and burnt her severely, and there was the scar still +showing on her brown little arm--then how she poured the hot fat into, +the tin mould, first fastening in the wicks, then shut up the mould and +left it to grow cold as quickly as it would; all this, and many other +particulars which I have long since forgotten, she told us; and +little by little we learnt too her own history. + +Father, mother, grandfather, and herself had all come to the diggings +the summer before. Her father met with a severe accident in digging, +and returned to Melbourne. He returned only to die, and his wife soon +followed him to the grave. Having no other friend or relative in the +colonies, the child had been left with her aged grandfather, who +appeared as infatuated with the gold-fields as a more hale and younger +man. His strength and health were rapidly failing, yet he still dug on. +"We shall be rich, and Jessie a fine lady before I die," was ever his +promise to her, and that at times when they were almost wanting food. + +It was with no idle curiosity that we listened to her; none could help +feeling deeply interested in the energetic, unselfish, orphan girl. She +was not beautiful, nor was she fair--she had none of those childish +graces which usually attract so much attention to children of her age; +her eyes were heavy and bloodshot (with work, weeping, cold, and +hunger) except when she spoke of her sick grandfather, and then they +disclosed a world of tenderness; her hair hung matted round her +head; her cheek was wan and sallow; her dress was ill-made and +threadbare; yet even thus, few that had once looked at her but would +wish to look again. There was an indescribable sweetness about the +mouth; the voice was low and musical; the well-shaped head was firmly +set upon her shoulders; a fine open forehead surmounted those drooping +eyes; there was almost a dash of independence; a "little woman" manner +about her that made one imperceptibly forget how young she was in +years. + +A slight noise in the tent--a gentle moan. + +"He's waked; I must go to him, and," in a lower, almost a deprecating +tone, "he doesn't like to hear stranger folks about." + +We cheerfully complied with the hint and departed, Frank first putting +some money into her hand, and promising to call again for the candles +and veils she seemed quite anxious we should take in return. + +Our thoughts were as busy as our tongues were silent, during the time +that elapsed before we reached home. When we entered, we found a +discussion going on, and words were running high. My brother and +Octavius were for going somewhere to work, not idle about as +they were doing now; William. wanted to go for a "pleasure trip" to +Forest Creek, and then return to Melbourne for a change. Frank listened +to it all for some minutes, and then made a speech, the longest I ever +heard from him, of which I will repeat portions, as it will explain our +future movements. + +"This morning, when going down the gully, I met the person whom we +bought the dray-horses of in Melbourne. I asked him how he was doing, +and he answered, 'badly enough; but a friend's just received accounts +of some new diggings out Albury way, and there I mean to go.' He showed +me also a letter he had received from a party in Melbourne, who were +going there. From these accounts, gold is very plentiful at this spot, +and I for one think we may as well try our fortune in this new place, +as anywhere else. The route is partly along the Sydney road, which is +good, but it is altogether a journey of two hundred miles. I would +therefore propose (turning to my brother), that we proceed first to +Melbourne, where you can leave your sister, and we can then start for +the Ovens; and as provisions are at an exorbitant price there, +we might risk a little money in taking up a dray-full of goods as +before. And as we may never chance to be in this part of Victoria +again, I vote that we take William's 'pleasure trip' to Forest Creek, +stop there a few days, and then to Melbourne." + +This plan was adopted. + +FRIDAY MORNING.--Frank stole out early after breakfast, for a visit to +little Jessie. I learnt the full particulars afterwards, and therefore +will relate them as they occurred, as though myself present. He did not +find her sitting outside the tent as before, and hesitated whether to +remain or go away, when a low moaning inside determined him to enter. +He pushed aside the blanket, and saw her lying upon an old mattress on +the ground; beside her was a dark object, which he could not at first +distinguish plainly. It was her grandfather, and he was dead. The +moaning came from the living orphan, and piteous it was to hear her. It +took Frank but a few minutes to ascertain all this, and then he gently +let down the blanket, and hastened to the butcher's shop I have already +mentioned. He learnt all that there was to know: that she had no +friends, no relatives, and that nothing but her own labour, and +the kindness of others, had kept them from starvation through the +winter. Frank left a small sum in the butcher's hands, to have the old +man buried, as best could be, in so wild and unnatural a place, and +then returned to the mourning child. When he looked in, she was lying +silent and senseless beside the corpse. A gentle breathing--a slight +heaving of the chest, was all that distinguished the living from the +dead. Carefully taking her in his arms, he carried her to our tent. As +I saw him thus approaching, an idea of the truth flashed across me. +Frank brought her inside, and laid her upon the ground--the only +resting-place we had for her. She soon opened her eyes, the quick +transition through the air had assisted in reviving her, and then I +could tell that the whole sad truth returned fresh to her recollection. +She sat up, resting her head upon her open hands, whilst her eyes were +fixed sullenly, almost doggedly, upon the ground. Our attempts at +consolation seemed useless. Frank and I glanced at one another. "Tell +us how it happened," said he gently. + +Jessie made no answer. She seemed like one who heard not. + +"It must have been through some great carelessness--some neglect," +pursued Frank, laying a strong emphasis on the last word. + +This effectually roused her. + +"I NEVER left him--I NEVER neglected him. When I waked in the morning I +thought him asleep. I made my fire. I crept softly about to make his +gruel for breakfast, and I took it him, and found him dead--dead," and +she burst into a passion of tears. + +Frank's pretended insinuation had done her good; and now that her grief +found its natural vent, her mind became calmer, and exhausted with +sorrow, she fell into a soothing slumber. + +We had prepared to start before noon, but this incident delayed us a +little. When Jessie awoke, she seemed to feel intuitively that Frank +was her best friend, for she kept beside him during our hasty dinner, +and retained his hand during the walk. There was a pleasant breeze, and +we did not feel over fatigued when, after having walked about eight +miles, we sat down beneath a most magnificent gum tree, more +than a hundred feet high. Frank very wisely made Jessie bestir herself, +and assist in our preparations. She collected dry sticks for a fire, +went with him to a small creek near for a supply of water; and so well +did he succeed, that for a while she nearly forgot her troubles, and +could almost smile at some of William's gay sallies. + +Next morning, very early, breakfast rapidly disappeared, and we were +marching onwards. An empty cart, drawn by a stout horse, passed us. + +Frank glanced at the pale little child beside him. "Where to?" cried +he. + +"Forest Creek." + +"Take us for what?" + +"A canary a-piece." + +"Agreed." And we gladly sprung in. For the sake of the uninitiated, I +must explain that, in digger's slang, a "canary" and half-a-sovereign +are synonymous. + +We passed the "Porcupine Inn." We halted at noon, dined, and about two +hours after sighted the Commissioners' tent. In a few minutes the cart +stopped. + +"Can't take yer not no further. If the master seed yer, I'd cotch it +for taking yer at all." + +We paid him and alighted. + + + + +Chapter XI. + + + +FOREST CREEK + + +In my last chapter we were left standing not far from the +Commissioners' tent, Forest Creek, at about three o'clock in the +afternoon of Saturday, the 16th. An air of quiet prevailed, and made +the scene unlike any other we had as yet viewed at the diggings. It was +the middle of the month; here and there a stray applicant for a licence +might make his appearance, but the body of the diggers had done so long +before, and were disseminated over the creek digging, washing, or +cradling, as the case might be, but here at least was quiet. To the +right of the Licensing Commissioners' tent was a large one +appropriated to receiving the gold to be forwarded to Melbourne by the +Government escort. There were a number of police and pensioners about. + +Not many months ago, the scarcity of these at the diggings had +prevented the better class of diggers from carrying on their operations +with any degree of comfort, or feeling that their lives and property +were secure. But this was now altered; large bodies of police were +placed on duty, and wooden buildings erected in various parts of the +diggings for their accommodation. Assistant Commissioners (who were +also magistrates) had been appointed, and large bodies of pensioners +enrolled as police, and acting under their orders. Roads were also +being made in all directions, thereby greatly facilitating +intercommunication. + +But I must not forget that we are standing looking about us without +exactly knowing where to turn. Suddenly William started off like a shot +in pursuit of a man a little way from us. We could not at first guess +who it was, for in the diggers' dress all men look like so many +brothers; but as we approached nearer we recognised our late captain, +Gregory. + +"Well, old fellow, and where did you spring from?" was Frank's +salutation. "I thought you were stuck fast in the Eagle Hawk." + +"I may say the same," said Gregory, smiling. "How got you here?" + +This was soon told, and our present dilemma was not left unmentioned. + +"A friend in need is a friend indeed," says the proverb, and William +echoed it, as Gregory very complaisantly informed us that, having just +entered upon a store not far distant, he would be delighted to give us +a shelter for a few nights. This we gladly accepted, and were soon +comfortably domiciled beneath a bark and canvas tent adjoining his +store. Here we supped, after which Gregoryy left us, and returned with +mattresses, blankets, &c., which he placed on the ground, whilst he +coolly ordered the gentlemen to prepare to take their departure, he +himself presently setting them the example. + +"I'm certain sure the young leddy's tired," said he; "and that little +lassie there (pointing to Jessie) looks as pale and as wizened as an +old woman of seventy--the sooner they gets to sleep the better." + +We followed the kindly hint, and Jessie and myself were soon fast +asleep in spite of the din close beside us. It was Saturday night, and +the store was full; but the Babel-like sounds disturbed us not, and we +neither of us woke till morning. + +It was Sunday. The day was fine, and we strolled here and there, +wandering a good way from Gregory's store. As we returned, we passed +near the scene of the monster meeting of 1851. The following account of +it is so correct, that I cannot do better than transcribe it. + +"The exceeding richness of the Mount Alexander diggings, and +extraordinary success of many of the miners, led the Government to +issue a proclamation, raising the licence from thirty shillings to +three pounds. As soon as these intentions became known, a public +meeting of all the miners was convened, and took place on the 15th of +December, 1851. This resolve of the Governor and Executive Council was +injudicious, since, in New South Wales, the Government proposed to +reduce the fee to 15s.; and among the miners in Victoria, +dissatisfaction was rife, on account of the apparent disregard by the +Government of the wants and wishes of the people engaged in the +gold diggings, and because of the absence of all police protection, +while there appeared to be no effort made to remedy this defect. +Indignation was, therefore, unequivocally expressed at the several +diggings' meetings which were held, and at which it was resolved to +hold a monster meeting. The 'Old Shepherd's Hut,' an out station of Dr. +Barker's, and very near the Commissioners' tent, was the scene chosen +for this display. For miles around work ceased, cradles were hushed, +and, the diggers, anxious to show their determination, assembled in +crowds, swarming from every creek, gully, hill, and dale, even from the +distant Bendigo, twenty miles away. They felt that if they tamely +allowed the Government to charge 3 pounds one month, the licensing fee +might be increased to 6 pounds the next; and by such a system of +oppression, the diggers' vocation would be suspended. + +"It has been computed that from fifteen to twenty thousand persons were +on the ground during the time of the meeting. Hundreds, who came and +heard, gave place to the coming multitude, satisfied with having +attended to countenance the proceedings. The meeting ultimately +dispersed quietly, thereby disappointing the anticipations of those who +expected, perhaps even desired, a turbulent termination. The majority +determined to resist any attempt to enforce this measure, and to pay +NOTHING; but, happily, they were not reduced to this extremity, since +his Excellency wisely gave notice that no change would be made in the +amount demanded for licence." + +The trees up which the diggers had climbed during the meeting are still +pointed out. + +The "Old Shepherd's Hut" was standing. It seemed a most commodious +little building compared to the insecure shelter of' a digger's tent. +The sides of the hut were formed of slabs, which were made mostly from +the stringy bark,--a tree that splits easily--the roof was composed of +the bark from the same tree; the chimney was of stones mortared +together with mud. This is the general style of building for shepherds' +huts in the bush. As we passed it I could not but mentally contrast the +scene that took place there on the important day of the monster +meeting, to the deep tranquillity that must have reigned around +the spot for centuries before the discovery of gold drew multitudes to +the place. + +The trees in this neighbourhood are mostly stringy bark; almost all are +peeled of their covering, as many diggers, particularly those who have +their families with them, keep much to one part, and think it, +therefore, no waste of time or labour to erect a hut, instead of living +in a comfortless tent. + +On Monday morning we determined to pursue our travels, and meant that +day to pay a flying, visit to Fryer's Creek. It was a lovely morning, +and we set out in high spirits. A heavy rain during the night had well +laid the dust. On our way we took a peep at several flats and gullies, +many of which looked very picturesque, particularly one called Specimen +Gully, which was but thinly inhabited. + +We had hardly reached Fryer's Creek itself when we saw a vast concourse +of people gathered together. Frank and my brother remained with me at a +little distance, whilst Octavius and William went to learn the occasion +of this commotion. It arose from an awful accident which had just +occurred. + +Three brothers were working in a claim beside the stream, some way +apart from the other diggers. The heavy rain during the night had +raised the water, and the ground between the hole where they were +working and the Creek, had given way imperceptibly UNDERNEATH. One +brother, who was early in the hole at work, fancied that the water at +the bottom was gradually rising above his knees; he shouted to his +comrades, but unfortunately they had gone, one, one way, one, another, +in quest of something, and it was some minutes ere they returned. + +Meanwhile the water in the hole was slowly but surely rising, and the +slippery sides which were several feet high defied him to extricate +himself. His cries for help became louder--he was heard, and his +brothers and some neighbours hastened to his assistance. Ropes were +procured after some further delay, and thrown to the unhappy man--but +it was too late. None dared approach very near, for the ground was like +a bog, and might at any moment give way beneath their feet; the water +was nearly level with the top of the hole, and all hope of saving him +was gone. The brothers had often been warned of the danger they +were running. + +Shuddering at the thoughts of this awful death we turned away, but no +change of scene could dissipate it from our minds--the remembrance of +it haunted me for many a night. + +Jessie seemed pleased to see us on our return--we had left her behind +with Gregory to his great delight--we abstained from mentioning before +her the fearful accident we had but witnessed. + +That evening we wandered about Forest Creek. We had not gone far before +a digger with a pistol in his hand shot by us; he was followed by an +immense mob, hooting, yelling, and screaming, as only a mob at the +diggings can. It was in full pursuit, and we turned aside only in time +to prevent ourselves from being knocked down in the confusion. + +"Stop him--stop him," was the cry. He was captured, and the cry changed +to, "String him up--string him up--it's useless taking him to the +police-office." + +"What has he done?" asked my brother of a quiet by-stander. + +"Shot a man in a quarrel at a grogshop." + +"String him up--string him up--confront him with the body," vociferated +the mob. + +At this moment the firmly-secured and well-guarded culprit passed by, to +be confronted with the dead body of his adversary. No sooner did he +come into his presence than the CI-DEVANT corpse found his feet, +"showed fight," and roared out, "Come on," with a most unghostlike +vehemence. The fury of the mob cooled down; the people thought the man +had been murdered, whereas the shot, fortunately for both, had glanced +over the forehead without doing any serious injury. Taking advantage of +this lull, the fugitive declared that the wounded man had been robbing +him. This turned the tables, and, inspired by the hootings of the now +indignant mob, the "dead man" took to his heels and disappeared. + +The diggers in Pennyweight Flat, Nicholson's Gully, Lever Flat, Dirty +Dick's Gully, Gibson's Flat, at the mouth of Dingley Dell, and in +Dingley Dell itself, were tolerably contented with their gains, +although in many instances, the parties who were digging in the +centre of the gullies, or what is called "the slip," experienced +considerable trouble in bailing the water out of their holes. + +Some of the names given to the spots about Forest Creek are anything +but euphonious. Dingley Dell is, however, an exception, and sounds +quite musical compared to Dirty Dick's Gully. The former name was given +to the place by a gentleman from Adelaide, and was suggested by the +perpetual tinkling of the bullock's bells, it being a favourite camping +place for bullock drivers, offering, as it did, an excellent supply of +both wood, water, and food for their cattle. From whom the latter +inelegant name originated I cannot precisely tell--but there are plenty +of "dirty Dicks" all over the diggings. + +The current prices of this date at Forest Creek were as follows: +flour, 9 to 10 pounds per hundred-weight; sugar, 1s. 6d. a pound, +very scarce; tea, 3s.; rice, 1s.; coffee, 3s.; tobacco, 8s.; cheese, +3s.; butter, 4s.; honey, 3s. 6d.; candles, 1s. 6d; currants, 1s. 6d., +very scarce; raisins, 1s. 6d.; figs, 2s. 6d.; salt, 1s. 6d. Picks, spades, +and tin dishes, 10s. each. Gold 64s. per ounce. + +TUESDAY, 19.--Before breakfast we were busily employed in packing the +"swags" when Octavius suddenly dropped the strap he held in his hand +for that purpose, and darted into the store. Thinking that we had +omitted something which he went to fetch, we continued our work. When +everything was ready and the last strap in its place, we again thought +of our absent comrade, making all sorts of surmises regarding his +disappearance, when, just as Frank was going after him, in he walked, +accompanied by a stranger whom he introduced as his uncle. This +surprised us, as we were ignorant of his having any relatives in the +colonies. He then explained that a younger brother of his father's had +about eight years ago gone to South Australia, and that never having +heard of him for some years they had mourned him as dead. After many +adventures he had taken a fancy to the diggings, and had just come from +Melbourne with a dray full of goods. He went to Gregory's store to +dispose of them. Octavius had heard them in conversation +together, and had mistaken his uncle's for his father's voice. Hence +the precipitation of his exit. The uncle was a tall sunburnt man, who +looked well-inured to hardship and fatigue. He stayed and took +breakfast with us, and then having satisfactorily arranged his business +with Gregory, and emptied his dray, he obligingly offered to convey +Jessie and myself to Melbourne in it. Accordingly after dinner we all +started together. + +Our new companion was a most agreeable person, and his knowledge of the +colonies was extensive. With anecdotes of the bush, the mines, and the +town, he made the journey pass most pleasantly. Before evening we +reached the Golden Point near Mount Alexander. This term of "Golden" +has been applied to a great many spots where the deposits have been +richer than, usual. There was a Golden Point at Ballarat, and when the +report of the Alexander diggings drew the people from there, they +carried the name with them, and applied it to this portion of the +mount. To the left of the Point, which was still full of labourers, was +the store of Mr. Black, with the Union-Jack flying above it. It is a +most noted store, and at one time when certain delicacies were +not to be had in Melbourne they were comparatively cheap here. + +We passed by this busy spot and encamped at sunset at the foot of Mount +Alexander. It was a lovely evening and our eyes were feasted by a Most +glorious sight. All the trees of the forest gradually faded away in the +darkness, but beyond them, and through them were glimpses of the +granite-like walls of the mount, brilliantly shining in and reflecting +the last glowing rays of the setting sun. Some of the gorgeous scenes +of fairy-land seemed before us--we could have imagined that we were +approaching by night some illuminated, some enchanted castle. + +That evening we sat late round our fire listening to the history which +the uncle of Octavius related of some of his adventures in South +Australia. The posts he had filled formed a curious medley of +occupations, and I almost forget the routine in which they followed one +another, but I will endeavour to relate his story as much as possible +in his own words. + +"When I started from England, after having paid passage-money, &c., I +found myself with about 200 pounds ready money in my purse--it was all +I had to expect, and I determined to be very careful of it; but by a +young man of five-and-twenty these resolutions, like lady's promises, +are made to be broken. When I landed in Adelaide with my money in my +pocket--minus a few pounds I had lost at whist and cribbage on board +ship--I made my way to the best inn, where I stayed some days, and ran +up rather a longish bill. Then I wanted to see the country, which I +found impossible without a horse, so bought one, and rode about to the +various stations, where I was generally hospitably received, and thus +passed a few months very pleasantly, only my purse was running low. I +sold the horse, then my watch, and spent the money. When that was gone, +I thought of the letters of introduction I possessed. The first that +came to hand was directed to a Wesleyan minister. I called there, +looking as sanctimonious as I could. He heard my story, advised me to +go to chapel regularly, 'And for your temporal wants,' said he, 'the +Lord will provide.' I thanked him, and bowed myself off. + +"My first act was to burn my packet of introductory letters, my +next was to engage myself to a stock-holder at 15s. a week and my +rations. He was going up to his station at once, and I accompanied him. +We travelled for about two hundred miles through a most beautiful +country before we reached his home. His house was, in my ideas, a +comical-looking affair--made of split logs of wood, with a bark roof, +and a barrel stuck on the top of the roof at one end by way of a +chimney-pot. His wife, a pale sickly little woman, seemed pleased to +see us, for she had been much alarmed by the natives, who were rather +numerous about the neighbourhood. There was only a young lad, and an +old shepherd and his wife upon the station, besides herself. Before I +had been there six weeks she died, and her new-born little baby died +too; there was not a doctor for miles, and the shepherd's wife was +worse than useless. I believe this often happens in the bush--it's not a +place for woman-folks. + +"I was here eighteen months--it was a wild sort of life, and just suited +my fancy; but when I found I had some money to receive, I thought a +spree in town would be a nice change, so off I marched. My spree lasted +as long as my money, and then I went as barman to a +public-house at Clare, some way up the country--here I got better wages +and better board, and stopped about half-a-year. Then I turned brewer's +drayman, and delivered casks of good Australian ale about Adelaide for +30s. a week. The brewer failed, and I joined in a speculation with an +apple dealer to cart a lot up to the Kapunda copper mines. That paid +well. I stopped up there as overseer over four-and-twenty +bullock-drays. Well, winter came, and I had little to do, though I drew +my 30s. a week regularly enough, when the directors wanted a contract +for putting the small copper-dust into bags, and sewing them up. I +offered to do the job at 2d. a bag, and could get through a hundred and +fifty a day. How much is that? Oh! 12s. 6d. a-piece. I forgot to tell +you I'd a mate at the work. That was good earnings in those days; and +me and my mate, who was quite a lad, were making a pretty penny, when +some others offered to do them a halfpenny a bag cheaper. I did the +same, and we kept it to ourselves for about four weeks longer, when a +penny a bag was offered. There was competition for you! This roused +my bile--I threw it up altogether--and off to Adelaide again. +Soon spent all my cash, and went into a ship-chandler's office till +they failed; then was clerk to a butcher, and lost my situation for +throwing a quarter of his own mutton at him in a rage; and then I again +turned brewer's man. Whilst there I heard of the diggings--left the +brewer and his casks to look after themselves, and off on foot to +Ballarat. + +"Here I found the holes averaging some thirty feet--which was a style of +hard work I didn't quite admire; so hearing of the greater facility of +the Alexander diggings, I went through Bully Rook Forest, and tried my +luck in the Jim Crow Ranges. This paid well; and I bought a dray, and +bring up goods to the stores, which I find easier work, and twice as +profitable as digging. There's my story; and little I thought when I +went into Gregory's store to-day, that I should find my curly-pated +nephew ready to hear it." + +Next day we travelled on, and halted near Saw-pit Gully; it was early +in the afternoon, and we took a walk about this most interesting +locality. The earth was torn up everywhere--a few lucky hits +had sufficed to re-collect a good many diggers there, and they were +working vigorously. At dusk the labour ceased--the men returned to +their tents, and for the last time our ears were assailed by the +diggers' usual serenade. Imagine some hundreds of revolvers almost +instantaneously fired--the sound reverberating through the mighty +forests, and echoed far and near--again and again till the last faint +echo died away in the distance. Then a hundred blazing fires burst upon +the sight--around them gathered the rough miners themselves--their +sun-burnt, hair-covered faces illumined by the ruddy glare. Wild songs, +and still wilder bursts of laughter are heard; gradually the flames +sink and disappear, and an oppressive stillness follows (sleep rarely +refuses to visit the diggers' lowly couch), broken only by some +midnight carouser, as he vainly endeavours to find his tent. No fear of +a "peeler" taking him off to a police-station, or of being brought +before a magistrate next morning, and "fined five shillings for being +drunk." + +Early on Tuesday morning I gave a parting look to the diggings--our dray +went slowly onwards--a slight turn in the road, and the last +tent has vanished from my sight. "Never," thought I, "shall I look on +such a scene again!" + + + + +Chapter XII. + + + +RETURN TO MELBOURNE + + +Before the evening of Wednesday the 20th, we passed through Kyneton, +and found ourselves in the little village of Carlshrue, where we passed +the night. Here is a police-station, a blacksmith's, a few stores and +some cottages, in one of which we obtained a comfortable supper and +beds. A lovely view greeted us at sunrise. Behind us were still +towering the lofty ranges of Mount Alexander, before us was Mount +Macedon and the Black Forest. This mountain, which forms one of what is +called the Macedon range, is to be seen many miles distant, and on a +clear, sunny day, the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which +stands aloof as it were, from the range itself, are distinctly visible +from the flag-staff at Melbourne. + +We had intended to have stopped for the night in Kyneton, but the +charges there were so enormous that we preferred pushing on and taking +our chance as to the accommodation Carlshrue could afford, nor did we +repent the so doing. + +The following are the Kyneton prices. A meal or bed--both bad--4s; a +night's stabling, one pound ten shillings per horse; hay at the rate of +9d. a pound; this is the most exorbitant charge of all. + +Hay was somewhere about 20 pounds a ton in Melbourne. The carriage of it +to Kyneton, now that the fine weather was setting in, would not exceed 8 +pounds a ton at the outside, which would come to 28 pounds. The purchaser, +by selling it at Kyneton at the rate of 9d. a pound, or 75 pounds per ton, +cleared a profit of 47 pounds--NOT QUITE 200 PER CENT. If THIS is not +fortune-making, I should like to know what is. It beats the diggings +hollow. + +Next morning we looked our last at "sweet Carlshrue," and +having crossed the Five Mile Creek, camped for our mid-day meal beside +the Black Forest. Here a slight discussion arose, as to whether it +would be more advisable to proceed on our journey and camp in the Black +Forest that night, or whether we should remain where we were outside, +and recommence our journey in good time the next morning so as to get +through this most uncomfortable portion of our travels in one day. +Frank and Octavius were for the latter plan, as the best and safest, +but the rest (thinking that, having once travelled through it without +encountering any thing resembling a bushranger, they might safely do so +again) protested against wasting time, and were for entering those dark +shades without further delay. The uncle of Octavius whom, in future, +for the sake of convenience, I shall call Mr. L----, was also of this +mind, and as he was in some sort our leader during the journey, his +advice decided the matter. Danger to him was only a necessary +excitement. He was naturally fearless, and his merry laugh and gay joke +at the expense of the bushranger fearing party gradually dissipated the +unaccountable presentiment of danger which I for one had in no +small degree experienced. + +On we went, up hill and down dale, sometimes coming to a more open +piece of ground, but more generally threading our way amid a very maze +of trees, with trunks all black as the ground itself, whilst the dingy +foliage and the few rays of sunshine that lit up those dark, deep +glades served only to heighten the gloominess around. + +After walking for about six miles--I preferred that mode of getting +along to the joltings of the dray--we all felt disposed to rest +ourselves. We selected a spot where the trees were less thickly +clustered, and taking the horses out of the dray, tethered them by +strong ropes to some trees near. The dray itself was turned up, and a +blanket thrown over the up-raised shafts formed a most complete and +cosy little tent. + +A fire was next kindled, and a kettle full of water (with the tea in +it!) was placed on to boil, some home-made bread, brought from +Carlshrue, was placed upon the ground, and some chops were toasted on +the ends of sticks, which are usually the impromptu +toasting-forks of the bush. The old tin plates and pannicans, not quite +so bright as once upon a time, but showing, despite sundry bruises and +scratches, that they had seen better days, were placed upon the +tea-table, which of course was the ground. Two or three knives and +forks were on general service, and wandered about from hand to hand as +occasion required. Altogether it was a merry, sociable party, and I +think I enjoyed that supper better than any I ever tasted before or +since. + +"CHACUN A SON GOUT," many a one will say. + +The pleasantest moments must come to an end, and so did these. After +having sat up later than usual, Jessie and I retired to our gipsy tent, +leaving our guardian diggers smoking round the fire. They meant to keep +watches during the night to prevent a surprise. + +FRIDAY.--We were comfortably seated at our breakfast, discussing a +hundred subjects besides the food before us, when a shrill "coo-ey" +burst through the air; "coo-ey"--"coo-ey" again and again, till the very +trees seemed to echo back the sound. We started to our feet, and, +as if wondering what would come next, looked blankly at each +other, and again the "coo-ey," more energetic still, rang in our ears. +This is the call of the bush, it requires some little skill and +practice, and when given well can be heard a great way off. In such a +place as the Black Forest it could only proceed from some one who had +lost their way, or be a signal of distress from some party in absolute +danger. We again looked from one to the other--it bewildered us; and +again the cry, only more plaintive than before, came to us. +Simultaneously they seized their pistols, and started in the direction +whence the sounds proceeded. They were all too true Englishmen to hear +a fellow-creature in peril and not hasten to their succour. + +Jessie and myself could not remain behind alone--it was impossible; we +followed at a little distance, just keeping our comrades in sight. At +last they came to a halt, not knowing where to turn, and we joined +them. Frank gave a "coo-ey," and in about the space of a minute the +words "help, help,--come, come," in scarcely, audible sounds, answered +to the call. We penetrated about thirty yards farther, and a few low +groans directed us to a spot more obscure, if possible, than +the rest. There, firmly bound to two trees close together, were two +men. A thick cord was passed round and round their bodies, arms, and +legs, so as to leave no limb at liberty. They seemed faint and +exhausted at having called so long for help. + +It was the work of a moment for our party to fling down their pistols, +take out knives and tomahawks, and commence the work of releasing them +from their bonds. But the cords were knotted and thick, and there +seemed no little labour in accomplishing it. They were also retarded by +the small quantity of light, for, as I said before, it was a dark and +secluded spot. At length one man was released, and so faint and +exhausted was he, from the effects of whatever ill-usage he had +suffered, that, being a tall, powerfully made man, it required the +united strength of both Frank and Mr. L---- to prevent his falling to +the ground. + +Jessie and myself were standing a little apart in the shade; we seemed +as if spell-bound by the incident, and incapable of rendering any +assistance. + +The second was soon set at liberty, and no sooner did he feel +his hands and feet free from the cords than he gave a loud, shrill +"coo-ey." + +A shriek burst from Jessie's lips as, immediately the cry was uttered, +and before any one could, recover from the bewilderment it occasioned, +four well-armed men sprang upon our startled party. + +Taken thus at disadvantage, unarmed, their very knives flung down in +their eagerness to untwist the cords, they were soon overpowered. The +wretch who had been reclining in Frank's arms quickly found his feet, +and, ere Frank could recover from his surprise, one heavy blow flung +him to the ground; whilst the other twined his powerful arms round Mr. +L----, and, after a short but sharp struggle, in which he was assisted +by a fellow-villain, succeeded in mastering him. + +It was a fearful sight, and I can hardly describe my feelings as I +witnessed it. My brain seemed on fire, the trees appeared to reel +around me, when a cold touch acted as a sudden restorative, and almost +forced a scream from my lips. It was Jessie's hand, cold as marble, +touching mine. We spoke together in a low whisper, and both +seemed inspired by the same thoughts, the same hope. + +"I saw a little hill as we came here," said Jessie; "let's try and find +it and look out for help." + +I instinctively followed her, and stealthily creeping along, we gained +a small rise of ground which commanded a more extended view than most +places in the Black Forest, and, but for the thickness of the trees, we +could have seen our own camping-place and the part where the ambuscade +had been laid. From sounds of the voices, we could tell that the +ruffians were leading their prisoners to the spot where we had passed +the night, and the most fearful oaths and imprecations could ever and +anon be heard. Well might our hearts beat with apprehension, for it was +known that when disappointed in obtaining the gold they expected, they +vented their rage in torturing their unfortunate victims. + +Meanwhile Jessie seemed listening intently. The time she had spent in +the bush and at the diggings had wonderfully refined her sense of +hearing. Suddenly she gave a shrill "coo-ey." The moment after a shot +was fired in the direction of our late camp. Jessie turned even +paler, but recovering herself, "coo-ey" after "coo-ey" made the echoes +ring. I joined my feeble, efforts to hers; but she was evidently well +used to this peculiar call. On a fine still day, this cry will reach +for full three miles, and we counted upon this fact for obtaining some +assistance. + +"Help is coming," said Jessie, in a low voice, and once more with +increasing strength she gave the call. + +Footsteps approached nearer and nearer. I looked up, almost expecting +to see those villainous countenances again. + +"Women in danger!" shouted a manly voice, and several stalwart figures +bounded to our side. + +"Follow, follow!" cried Jessie, rushing forwards. I scarcely remember +everything that occurred, for I was dizzy with excess of pleasure. +There was a short scuffle, shots were fired at retreating bushrangers, +and we saw our friends safe and free. + +The whole, matter was then related to our preservers--for such they +were--and I then learnt that when the bushrangers had marched +off our party to the camping-place, they proceeded to overhaul their +pockets, and then bound them securely to some trees, whilst one stood +ready with a pistol to shoot the first that should call for help, and +the others looked over the plunder. This was little enough, for our +travelling money, which was notes, was kept--strange treasury--in the +lining of the body of my dress, and here too were the gold receipts +from the Escort Office. Every night I took out about sufficient to +defray the day's expenses, and this was generally given into Frank's +hands. + +Enraged and disappointed, the villains used most frightful language, +accompanied by threats of violence; and the one on guard, irritated +beyond his powers of endurance, fired the pistol in the direction of +William's head. At this moment Jessie's first "coo-ey" was heard: this +startled him, and the shot, from the aim of the pistol being +disarranged, left him unhurt. + +"It's that d----d child," muttered one, with a few, additional oaths; +"we'll wring her neck when we've secured the plunder." + +One of the ruffians now attempted more persuasive measures, and +addressing Mr. L----, whom I suppose he considered the leader, expended +his powers of persuasion much in the following manner. + +"You sees, mate, we risks our lives to get your gold, and have it we +will. Some you've got somewhere or another, for you havn't none on you +got no paper from the Escort--you planted it last night, eh? Jist show +us where, and you shan't be touched at all, nor that little wretch +yonder, what keeps screeching so; but if you don't--" and here his +natural ferocity mastered him, and he wound up with a volley of curses, +in the midst of which our rescuers rushed upon them. + +When we came to talk the whole matter over calmly and quietly, no doubt +was left upon our minds, as to the premeditation of the whole affair. +But for the watch kept, the attack would most probably have been made +during the night. + +Our timely friends were a party of successful diggers returning, from +work. They too had passed the night in the Black Forest--providently +not very far from us. They accepted our thanks in an off-hand sort of +way, only replying--which was certainly true--"that we would have +done the same for them." It was in endeavouring to assist assumed +sufferers that our party fell into the ambuscade laid for them. + +They waited whilst we got the dray and horses ready, and we all +journeyed on together, till the Black Forest was far behind us. We saw +no more of the bushrangers, and encamped that night a few miles beyond +the "Bush Inn." At this inn we parted with our gallant friends. They +were of the jovial sort, and having plenty of gold, were determined on +a spree. We never met them again. + +On Saturday we travelled as far as the "Deep Creek Inn." Some distance +before reaching that place, we passed two rival coffee-shops on the +road. We stopped at the first, to know if they had any uncooked or cold +meat to sell, for our provisions were running low. + +"Havn't none," said the woman, shaking her head. Then looking hard at +William, and judging from his good-humoured face, that he was a likely +one to do what she wanted, she said to him. "Now, Sir, I'm agoing to ax +a favour of you, and that is to go a little farther down the +road, to the other coffee-tent, and buy for me as much meat as they'll +let you have. They's got plenty, and I've none; and they knows I'll +lose custom by it, so you'll not get it if they twigs (ANGLICE guesses) +you comes from me. You understand, Sir," and she put sovereign into his +hand to pay for it. + +Laughing at the comicality of the request, and the thoroughly colonial +coolness of making it, William set off, and presently returned with +nearly half a sheep hanging over his shoulders, and a large joint in +one hand. + +"Bless me, what luck!" exclaimed the delighted woman, and loud and +profuse were her thanks. She wanted to cook us a good dinner off the +meat gratis; but this we steadily refused and purchasing enough for the +present, we put our drays again into motion, and a little while after +kindled a fire, and were our own cooks as usual. That night we camped +beside the Deep Creek, about a mile from the "Deep Creek Inn." The +route we were now taking was different to the one we had travelled +going up--it was much more direct. + +We remained all Sunday beside the creek, and the day passed quietly and +pleasantly. + +On Monday the 25th we were again in motion. We passed the well known +inn of Tulip Wright's. How great a change those few weeks had made! +Winter had given place to summer, for Australia knows no spring. We +walked along the beautiful road to Flemington, gave a look at the +flagstaff and cemetery, turned into Great Bourke Street, halted at the +Post-office, found several letters, and finally stopped opposite the +"Duke of York Hotel," where we dined. + +I shall leave myself most comfortably located here, whilst I devote a +chapter or two to other diggings. + + + + +Chapter XIII. + + + +BALLARAT + + +Ballarat is situated about forty-five miles from Geelong, and +seventy-five nearly west of Melbourne. This was the first discovered +goldfield of any extent in Victoria, and was made known on the 8th of +September, 1851. The rush from Geelong was immense. Shops, stores, +trades, all and everything was deserted; and the press very truly +declared that "Geelong was mad--stark, staring gold-mad." During the +month of September five hundred and thirty-two licences were taken out; +in the month following the number increased to two thousand two hundred +and sixty one! + +The usual road to Ballarat is by the Adelaide overland route on the +Gambier Road; but the most preferable is per Geelong. The former route +leads over the Keilor Plains, and through Bacchus Marsh, crossing the +Werribee River in two places. Mount Buninyong then appears in sight of +the well-pleased traveller, and Ballarat is soon reached. + +The route VIA Geelong is much quicker, as part of the way is generally +performed by steam at the rate of one pound a-piece. Those who wish to +save their money go to Geelong by land. After leaving Flemington, and +passing the Benevolent Asylum, the Deep Creek is crossed by means of a +punt, and you then come to a dreary waste of land, called Iett's Flat. +Beyond is a steep rise and a barren plain, hardly fit to graze sheep +upon, and at about twenty miles from Melbourne you come to the first +halting house. Some narrow but rapid creeks must be got over, and for +seven miles further you wander along over a dreary sheep-run till +stopped by the Broken River, which derives its name partly from the +nature of its rocky bed, and partly from the native name which has a +similar sound + +This creek is the most steep, rapid, and dangerous on the road, having +no bridge and no properly defined crossing-place or ford, except the +natural rocks about. The bottom is of red sand-stone and rocks of the +same description abut from the sides of the creek, and appear to abound +in the neighbourhood; and all along the plains here and there are +large fragments of sand and lime-stone rocks. Two hundred yards from +the creek is a neat inn after the English style, with a large +sitting-room, a tap, a bar, and a coffee-room. The bed-rooms are so +arranged as to separate nobs from snobs--an arrangement rather +inconsistent in a democratic colony. The inn also affords good stabling +and high charges. Up to this distance on our road there is a scarcity +of wood and springs of water. + +We now pass two or three huts, and for twenty miles see nothing to +please the eye, for it is a dead, flat sheep-walk. About seven miles on +the Melbourne side of Geelong, the country assumes a more cheering +appearance--homesteads, gardens, and farms spring up--the roads improve, +and the timber is plentiful and large, consisting of shea-oaks, wattle, +stringy bark, and peppermints. Many of the houses are of a good +size, and chiefly built of stone, some are of wood, and very few of +brick. + +Geelong, which is divided into north and south, is bounded by the +Barwin, a river navigable from the bay to the town, and might be +extended further; beautiful valleys well wooded lie beyond. Between the +two townships a park has been reserved, though not yet enclosed; the +timber in it, which is large--consisting principally of white gum and +stringy bark--is not allowed to be cut or injured. There are several +good inns, a court-house, police-station, and corporation offices. +There is also a neat church in the early pointed style, with a +parsonage and schools in the Elizabethan; all are of dark lime-stone, +having a very gloomy appearance, the stones being unworked, except near +the windows; the porches alone slightly ornamented. The road and +pavement are good in the chief streets; there is a large square with a +conduit, which is supplied by an engine from the Barwin. The shops are +large and well furnished, a great many houses are three stories high, +most are two, and very few one. The best part of town is about one +hundred feet above the river. A large timber bridge over the +Ballarat road was washed down last winter. The town is governed by a +mayor and corporation. There is a city and mounted police force, and a +neat police-court. A large and good race-course is situated about +three miles from the town. + +As regards scenery, Geelong is far superior to Melbourne, the streets +are better, and so is the society of the place; none of the ruffian +gangs and drunken mobs as seen in Victoria's chief city. There are +various, chapels, schools, markets, banks, and a small gaol. The +harbour is sheltered, but not safe for strangers, as the shoals are +numerous. Geelong is surrounded by little townships. Irish Town, Little +Scotland, and Little London are the principal and to show how +completely the diggings drained both towns and villages of their male +inhabitants, I need only mention that six days after the discovery of +Ballarat, there was only one man left in Little Scotland, and he was a +cripple, compelled NOLENS VOLENS to remain behind. + +The road from Geelong to Ballarat is well marked out, so often has it +been trodden; and there are some good inns on the way-side for +the comfort of travellers. On horseback you can go from the town to the +diggings in six or eight hours. + +Ballarat is a barren place, the ground is interspersed with rocky +fragments, the creek is small, and good water is rather scarce. In +summer it almost amounts to a drought, and what there is then is +generally brackish or stagnatic. It is necessary never to drink +stagnant water, or that found in holes, without boiling, unless there +are frogs in it, then the water is good; but the diggers usually boil +the water, and a drop of brandy, if they can get it. In passing through +the plains you are sure of finding water near the surface (or by +seeking a few inches) wherever the tea tree grows. + +The chief object at the Ballarat diggings is the Commissioners' tent, +which includes the Post-office. There are good police quarters now. The +old lock-up was rather of the primitive order, being the stump of an +old tree, to which the the prisoners were attached by sundry chains, +the handcuff being round one wrist and through a link of the chain. I +believe there is a tent for their accommodation. There are +several doctors about, who, as usual, drive a rare trade. + +It is almost impossible to describe accurately the geological features +of the gold diggings at Ballarat. Some of the surface-washing is good, +and sometimes it is only requisite to sink a few feet, perhaps only a +few inches, before finding the ochre-coloured earth (impregnated with +mica and mixed with quartzy fragments), which, when washed, pays +exceedingly well. But more frequently a deep shaft has to be sunk. + +Of course the depth of the shafts varies considerably; some are sixty +or even eighty, and some are only ten feet deep. Sometimes after heavy +rains, when the surface soil has been washed from the sides of the +hills, the mica layer is similarly washed down to the valleys and lies +on the original surface-soil. This constitutes the true washing stuff +of the diggings. Often when a man has--to use a digger's +phrase--"bottomed his hole," (that is, cut through the rocky strata, and +arrived at the gold layer), he will find stray indications, but nothing +remunerative, and perchance the very next hole may be the most +profitable on the diggings. Whether there is any geological +rule to be guided by has yet to be proved, at present no old digger +will ever sink below the mica soil, or leave his hole until be arrives +at it, even if he sinks to forty feet. So, therefore, it may be taken +as a general rule, wherever the diggings may be, either in Victoria, +New South Wales, or South Australia, that gold in "working" quantities +lies only where there is found quartz or mica. + +Ballarat has had the honour of producing the largest masses of gold yet +discovered. These masses were all excavated from one part of the diggings, +known as Canadian Gully, and were taken out of a bed of quartz, at the +depths of from fifty to sixty-five feet below the surface. The deep +indentures of the nuggets were filled with the quartz. The largest of +these masses weighed one hundred and thirty-four pounds, of which it +was calculated that fully one hundred and twenty-six pounds consisted +of solid gold! + +About seven miles to the north of Ballarat, some new diggings called +the Eureka have been discovered, where it appears that, although there +are no immense prizes, there are few blanks, and every one doing well! + +In describing the road from Melbourne to Geelong, I have made +mention of the Broken River. A few weeks after my arrival in the +colonies this river was the scene of a sad tragedy. + +I give the tale, much in the same words as it was given to me, because +it was one out of many somewhat similar, and may serve to show the +state of morality in Melbourne. + +The names of the parties are, of course, entirely fictitious. + + * * * * * + +Prettiest among the pretty girls that stood upon the deck as the anchor +of the Government immigrant ship 'Downshire' fell into Hobson's Bay, in +August, 1851, was Mary H----, the heroine of my story. No regret +mingled with the satisfaction that beamed from her large dark eyes, as +their gaze fell on the shores of her new country, for her orphan +brother, the only relative she had left in their own dear Emerald Isle, +was even then preparing to follow her. Nor could she feel sad and +lonely whilst the rich Irish brogue, from a subdued but manly and +well-loved voice, fell softly on her ear, and the gentle +pressure of her hand continually reminded her that she was not alone. + +Shipboard is a rare place for match-making, and, somehow or another, +Henry Stephens had contrived to steal away the heart of the 'Downshire' +belle. Prudence, however, compelled our young people to postpone their +marriage, and whilst the good housewife qualities of the one readily +procured her a situation in a highly respectable family in Melbourne, +Henry obtained an appointment in the police force of the same town. + +Their united savings soon mounted up, and in a few months the banns +were published, and Christmas-Day fixed on for the wedding. Mary, at +her lover's express desire, quitted her mistress's family to reside +with a widow, a distant relative of his own, from whose house she was +to be married. Delightful to the young people was this short period of +leisure and uninterrupted intercourse, for the gold mania was now +beginning to tell upon the excited imaginations of all, and Henry had +already thrown up his situation; and it was settled their wedding trip +should be to the golden gullies round Mount Buninyong. + +And now let me hasten over this portion of my narrative. It is sad to +dwell upon the history of human frailty, or to relate the oft-told tale +of passion and villainy triumphant over virtue. A few days before +Christmas, when the marriage ceremony was to be performed, they +unfortunately spent one evening together alone, and he left her--ruined. +Repentance followed sin, and the intervening time was passed by Mary in +a state of the greatest mental anguish. With what trembling eagerness +did she now look forward to the day which should make her his lawful +wife. + +It arrived. Mary and the friends of both stood beside the altar, whilst +he, who should have been there to redeem his pledge and save his victim +from open ruin and disgrace, was far away on the road to Ballarat. + +To describe her agony would be impossible. Day after day, week after +week, and no tidings from him came; conscience too acutely accounting +to her for his faithlessness. Then the horrible truth forced itself +upon her, that its consequences would soon too plainly declare her sin +before the world; that upon her innocent offspring would fall a portion +of its mother's shame. + +Thus six months stole sorrowfully away, and as yet none had even +conjectured the deep cause she had for misery. Her brother's +non-arrival was also an unceasing source of anxiety, and almost daily +might she have been seen at the Melbourne Post-office, each time to +return more disappointed than before. At length the oft-repeated +inquiry was answered in the affirmative, and eagerly she tore open the +long-anticipated letter. It told her of an unexpected sum of money that +had come into his hands--to them a small fortune--which had detained him +in Ireland. This was read and almost immediately forgotten, as she +learnt that he was arrived in Melbourne, and that only a few streets +now separated them. + +She raised her face, flushed and radiant with joyful excitement--her +eyes fell upon him who had so cruelly injured her. The scream that +burst from her lips brought him involuntarily to her side. What will +not a woman forgive where once her heart has been touched--in the double +joy of the moment the past was almost forgotten--together they re-read +the welcome letter, and again he wooed her for his bride. She +consented, and he himself led her to her brother, confessed +their mutual fault, and second preparations for an immediate marriage +were hurriedly made. + +Once more at the altar of St. Peter's stood the bridal party, and again +at the appointed hour Stephens was far gone on his second expedition to +the diggings, after having increased (if that was possible) his +previous villainy, by borrowing a large portion of the money before +mentioned from his intended brother-in-law. It was pretty evident that +the prospect of doing this had influenced him in his apparently +honourable desire to atone to the poor girl, who, completely prostrated +by this second blow, was laid on the bed of sickness. + +For some weeks she continued thus and her own sufferings were increased +by he sight of her brother's fury, as, on her partial recovery, he +quitted her in search of her seducer. + +During his absence Mary became a mother, and the little one that +nestled in her bosom, made her half forgetful of her sorrows, and at +times ready to embrace the delusive hope that some slight happiness in +life was in store for her. But her bitter cup was not yet drained. Day +by day, hour by hour, her little one pined away, until one +dreary night she held within her arms only its tiny corpse. + +Not one sound of grief--not an outward sign to show how deeply the heart +was touched--escaped her. The busy neighbours left her for awhile, glad +though amazed at her wondrous calmness; when they returned to finish +their preparations for committing the child to its last resting-place, +the mother and her infant had disappeared. + +Carrying the lifeless burden closely pressed against her bosom, as +though the pelting rain and chilling air could harm it now, Mary +rapidly left the town where she had experienced so much misery, +on--on--towards Geelong, the route her seducer and his pursuer had +taken--on--across Iett's Flat, until at length, weak and exhausted, she +sank down on the barren plains beyond. + +Next morning the early dawn found her still plodding her weary way--her +only refreshment being a dry crust and some water obtained at an +halting-house on the road; and many a passer-by, attracted by the +wildness of her eyes, her eager manner, and disordered dress, cast +after her a curious wondering look. But she heeded them +not--on--on she pursued her course towards the Broken River. + +Here she paused. The heavy winter rains had swollen the waters, which +swept along, dashing over the irregular pieces of rock that formed the +only means of crossing over. But danger was as nothing to her now--the +first few steps were taken--the rapid stream was rushing wildly round +her--a sensation, of giddiness and exhaustion made her limbs tremble--her +footing slipped on the wet and slimy stone--in another moment the +ruthless waters carried her away. + +The morrow came, and the sun shone brightly upon the still swollen and +rapid river. Two men stood beside it, both too annoyed at this +impediment to their return to Melbourne to be in the slightest degree +aware of their proximity to one another. A bonnet caught by a +projecting fragment of rock simultaneously attracted their attention: +both moved towards the spot, and thus brought into closer contact they +recognized each other. Deadly foes though they were, not a word passed +between them, and silently they dragged the body of the unhappy +girl to land. In her cold and tightened grasp still lay the child. As +they stood gazing on those injured ones, within one breast remorse and +shame, in the other, hatred and revenge, were raging violently. + +Each step on the road to Ballarat had increased her brother's desire +for vengeance, and still further was this heightened on discovering +that Stephens had already left the diggings to return to town. This +disappointment maddened him; his whole energy was flung into tracing +his foe, and in this he had succeeded so closely, that unknown to +either, both had slept beneath the same roof at the inn beside the +Broken River. + +The voices of some of the loungers there, who were coming down to the +Creek to see what mischief had been done during the night, aroused him. +He glanced upon his enemy, who pale and trembling, stood gazing on the +wreck that he had made. Revenge at last was in his hands--not a moment +was to be lost--with the yell of a maniac he sprang upon the powerless +and conscious-stricken man--seized him in his arms rushed to the +river--and ere any could interpose, both had found a grave where but a +few minutes before the bodies of Mary and her infant had reposed. + + + + +Chapter XIV. + + + +NEW SOUTH WALES + + +About seventy years ago a small colony of convicts first made the +forests ring with the blows of the axe, and a few tents were erected +where Sydney now stands. The tents, and they who dwelt beneath them, +have long since disappeared, and instead we have one of the finest +cities that our colonial empire ever produced. + +The streets in Sydney are, as in Melbourne, built at right angles +with one another; they are macadamized, well lighted with gas, and +perambulated by a number of policemen during the night. Some of +the shops almost rival those of London, and the public buildings are +good and numerous. There is a custom-house, a treasury, police-office, +college, benevolent asylum, banks, barracks, hospitals, libraries, +churches, chapels, a synagogue, museum, club-house, theatre, and many +splendid hotels, of which the largest is, I think the "Royal Hotel," in +George Street, built at the cost of 30,000 pounds. + +Hyde Park is close at hand, with un-numbered public walks, and a +botanical garden, the favourite resort of all classes. + +In the neighbourhood of Sydney are some good oyster-beds, and many are +the picnics got up for the purpose of visiting them. The oysters cling +to the rocks, and great numbers are easily obtained. + +The distance from Sydney to Melbourne, by the overland road, is about +six hundred miles; but the steamers, which are constantly plying, +afford a more comfortable mode of transit. + +The gold diggings of New South Wales are so well known as to +require but a cursory notice. The first official notification of the +fact of gold having been discovered bears date, May 22, 1851, and is +contained in a despatch from the Governor to Earl Grey. In it he +announced the existence of a gold field to the westward of Bathurst, +about one hundred and fifty miles from Sydney. At the same time, he +added his supposition that the gold sent for inspection was Califorian. + +Mr Stutchbury, the geological surveyor, quickly undeceived his +Excellency. He wrote from Hill Creek reporting that four hundred +persons were hard at work, and that the gold existed not only in the +creek but beyond it. The following postscript was added to his letter: +"Excuse this being written in pencil, as there is no ink in this city +of Ophir." And this appropriate name has ever since been retained. + +The natural consequences of this discovery was the flocking of hundreds +of the inhabitants of Sydney to Bathurst. Sober people began to be +alarmed at this complete BOULEVERSEMENT of business and +tranquillity. For the sake of order the Governor attempted to put a +stop to the increasing desertion of the capital by proclaiming that the +gold-fields were the prerogative of the Crown, and threatening +gold-diggers with prosecution. It was all in vain. The glitterings of +the precious metal were more attractive than the threats of the +Governor were otherwise. The people laughed good-humoured at the +proclamation, and only flocked in greater numbers to the auriferous +spot. + +Government now took a wiser course, and finding it impossible to stem +the torrent, determined to turn the eagerness of the multitude to some +account. A licence-fee of 30s., or half an ounce of gold, per month was +imposed, which, with few exceptions, has always been cheerfully paid. + +The Turon diggings soon followed those of Bathurst. This river flows +into the Macquarie after a course of a hundred miles. Along the entire +length auriferous discoveries are constantly being made, and it bids +fair to last for many years to come. The gold is not found, as many +erroneously suppose, so much among the sand as by digging in the soil. +It also exists in paying quantities on the shores and in the rive flows +of the Macquarie, the Abercrombie, and Belubula rivers. Major's Creek, +too, is a favourite locality, and was first made known by a prospecting +woman. + +According to Mr. Stutchbury's report, he found gold ALMOST WHEREVER HE +TRIED FOR IT, and whilst traversing the Macquarie from Walgumballa to +the Turon, he found it at EVERY place he tried. Surely Midas must, once +upon a time, have taken a pleasure-trip to Australia! + +The delirium of the Sydney gold-fever reached its height when it became +publicly known that a piece of one hundred and six pounds weight had +been disembowelled from the earth, at one time. This immense quantity +was the discovery of a native, who, being excited by the universal +theme of conversation, provided himself with a tomahawk, and explored +the country adjacent to his employer's land. He was attracted +by a glittering yellow substance on the surface of a block of quartz. +With his tomahawk he broke off a piece, which he carried home to his +master, Dr. Kerr, of Wallawa. Not being able to move the mass +conveniently, Dr. Kerr broke it into small fragments. The place where +it was found is at the commencement of an undulating table-land, very +fertile, and near to a never-failing supply of water in the Murroo +Creek. It is distant about fifty miles from Bathurst, thirty from +Wellington, and twenty from the nearest point of the Macquarie river. + +Dr. Kerr presented the native and his brother with two flocks of sheep, +two saddle-horses, a quantity of rations, a team of bullocks, and some +land. + +About twenty yards from the spot where this mass was found, a piece of +gold called the "Brennan Nugget" was soon after discovered. It weighed +three hundred and thirty-six ounces, and was sold in Sydney for more +than 1,100 pounds. + +But it would be useless to enter into fuller particulars of the +diggings of New South Wales. Panoramas, newspapers, and serials have +made them familiar to all. + + + + +Chapter XV. + + + +SOUTH AUSTRALIA + + +Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, was the last formed of the +three sister colonies. In 1834 an act of colonization was obtained; and +land, both in town and country, sold rapidly. The colonists, however, +were most unfortunately more engaged in speculating with the land, than +grazing upon or tilling it; and the consequence was, that in a few +years the South Australians were only saved from a famine by the +unexpected arrival overland of herds and flocks from Victoria. As it +was, horses and cows of a very indifferent kind were sold for +more than a hundred pounds a-piece, and sheep for five pounds a head. + +The discovery of the copper mines alone saved the country from ruin. +The first was the Kapunda. It was accidentally discovered by a +shepherd, who picked up a piece on the surface of the ground, and +showed it to his master. Pieces of copper ore may even now be found in +the same way. + +Next followed the far-famed Burra-Burra. In the latter mine there is a +great quantity of malachite, which, when smelted, gives copper at an +average of eighty-five per cent. + +South Australia possesses the finest river in Australia--namely, the +Murray, on which steamers will soon ply as far as five hundred miles up +the country. On either side of this river is a thick and dry +scrub--sometimes ten, sometimes thirty miles wide. In this scrub, manna +is not unfrequently found, to the great delight of the natives, who are +very fond of it. It is of a very excellent description, and in colour +has a slight tendency to pink. + +Adelaide itself is a well-laid out town. The streets are built in the +same manner as in Sydney and Melbourne; but those in Adelaide are much +wider. Many of the buildings and warehouses are highly creditable, +particularly when we take the juvenile age of the colony into +consideration. + +Adelaide has never yet been "a transportation colony," and the society +there is usually considered more RECHERCHE than in any other city in +Australia. The climate is very good, and the vine flourishes as in the +south of France. The principal export of South Australia is copper, to +which may be added some wool and tallow. + +The roads about are excellent, and the small farms in the neighbourhood +are more in the English style than one could expect to meet with so +many thousand miles away from home. + +The overland route from Adelaide to Melbourne is about four hundred +miles in length. In summer the road is pretty good, but in winter, a +lake or swamp of twenty miles extent has to be waded through. + +The scrub about South Australia is very thick, and any one may easily +lose themselves in it. This has in fact often been the case, and a +fearful instance of it occurred some few years ago. A young lady--the +daughter of a gentleman residing near Adelaide--started out one Sunday +afternoon with a book as her companion. Evening came, and she did not +return, which alarmed her family, and search was made far and near--but +in vain. On the fourth day, they at length discovered her lying dead at +the foot of a tree. The pages of her book were covered with sentences, +pricked in with a pin, expressive of her sufferings and of her +unavailing efforts to retrace her steps. She was only three miles from +her father's house when she sank down to die of hunger, thirst, and +exhaustion; and probably during the whole time of her wanderings had +never exceeded that distance from her home. + +The Adelaide gold-diggings began to excite attention in the months of +August and September, 1852. In October the following report was made: + + +"Camp, Echunga, Gold-Fields, +"October 2, 1852. + +"Sir, + +"I have the honour to state for the information of his Excellency the +Lieutenant-Governor, that since my last report sixty licences have been +issued, making a total of three hundred and fifty-six. * * * * Many +families of respectability have arrived, and are now living in +comfortable and commodious tents. The presence of well-dressed women +and children gives to the gold-fields, apparently distinguished for +decorum, security and respectability. + +"From the feeling of greater security and comfort, combined with +cheapness of living, all classes of diggers are unanimous in their +preference of this place to Victoria. * * * * + +"The nugget of gold which I have forwarded for his Excellency's +inspection, weighing about an ounce and a half, was found about seven +feet below the surface.* * * * + +"There are some few amongst the lately arrived who expressed +dissatisfaction with the result of their labours and +observations, while others, who have been working for the last month, +have promptly renewed their expired licences. + +(Signed) "A. J. MURRAY, +"Assistant Gold Commissioner. +"The Hon. the Colonial Secretary." + + +In the month of October several pieces of gold, weighing each half an +ounce and upwards, were found, and a few of the holes that had been +abandoned by inexperienced hands, when taken possession of by old +diggers on the Turon or the Bendigo, were found to contain good washing +stuff. The diggings were well supplied with food of every kind; and +during the summer months there could be no lack of fruits and +vegetables in abundance, at reasonable prices, supplied from the +numerous and well-cultivated farms and gardens around. This is +certainly an advantage over the diggings of Victoria or New South +Wales, if gold really does exist in paying quantities; if not, all the +fruit and vegetables in the world would not keep the diggers at +Echunga. + +The following "Lament" was circulated in Adelaide, but not one of the +newspapers there would print it. They were all too anxious for the +success of their diggings, to countenance any grumblers against them: + + + A LAMENT FOR MY THIRTY SHILLINGS, + DEDICATED TO THE ECHUNGA VICTIMS, + + My one pound ten! my one pound ten! + I paid as Licence Fee; + Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return, + That one pound ten to me. + + When to Echunga diggings first + I hastened up from town, + Thy tent I sought with anxious care + And paid the money down. + + And though my folly ever since + I bitterly deplore, + It soothes my mind to know there were + Three scores of fools before. + + Then, Bonney, listen to my lay, + And if you wish to thrive, + Send back the money quick to me, + To number sixty-five. + + Who wants but little here below, + Nor wants that little long, + Had better to Echunga go, + And not to Mount Coorong. + + But as for me I like a swag, + At least a little more + Than what we got there in a week-- + Eight pennyweights 'mongst four. + + For that, of surface earth we washed + Of dray loads half a score; + I'll swear that cradling never seemed + Such tedious work before. + + To sink for gold we then commenced, + With grief I must confess, + 'Twas fruitless toil, although we went + Down thirty feet or less. + + All you who've paid your one pound ten, + Are on your licence told + That then you are entitled to + Remove alluvial gold. + + But if the alluvial gold's not there + I'd like to have it proved + By what ingenious process it + Can ever be removed? + + Then back to Bendigo I'll haste, + To seek the precious ore; + Although my one pound ten I fear + Returns to me no more. + + Yet as the boundary line I cross, + My parting prayer shall be-- + Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return + My one pound ten to me! + + ANTIGROPOLOS. + Adelaide, September 1852. + + +With a short extract from the "South Australian Register" of +February 7, 1853, I shall conclude my remarks on the Adelaide diggings. + + +"THE GOLD FIELDS.--Although there is at the diggings everything to +indicate gold in large quantities, none have succeeded in realizing +their hopes. The majority content themselves with what they can get on +Chapman's Hill and Gully, knowing that, if a fresh place is discovered, +they will stand as good a chance as those who have spent months +in trying to find better ground. + +"The quantity of gold taken to the Assay-office, during four +consecutive weeks, amounting to less than four thousand ounces, the +Governor has proclaimed that after the 17th of February the office will +be closed." + + + + +Chapter XVI. + + + +MELBOURNE AGAIN + + +It was on Monday the 25th of October, that for the second time I +entered Melbourne. Not many weeks had elapsed since I had quitted it +for my adventurous trip to the diggings, yet in that short space of +time how many changes had taken place. The cloudy sky was exchanged for +a brilliant sunshine, the chilling air for a truly tropical heat, the +drizzling rain for clouds of thick cutting dust, sometimes as thick as +a London fog, which penetrated the most substantial veil, and made our +skins smart terribly. The streets too had undergone a wondrous +transformation. Collins Street looked quite bright and cheerful, and +was the fashionable promenade of those who had time or inclination for +lounging. Parties of diggers were constantly starting or arriving, +trips to St. Kilda and Brighton were daily taking place; and a coach +was advertised to run to the diggings! I cannot quite realize the +terrified passengers being driven through the Black Forest, but can +picture their horror when ordered to "bail up" by a party of Australian +Turpins. + +In every window--milliners, baby-linen warehouses, &c., included--was +exhibited the usual advertisement of the gold buyer--namely, a heap of +gold in the centre, on one side a pile of sovereigns, on the other +bank-notes. The most significant advertisement was one I saw in a +window in Collins Street. In the middle was a skull perforated by a +bullet, which lay at a little distance as if coolly examining or +speculating on the mischief it had done. On one side of the skull was a +revolver, and on the other a quantity of nuggets. Above all, was the +emphatic inscription, "Beware in time." This rather +uncomfortable-looking tableau signified--in as speaking a manner as +symbols can--that the unfortunate skull had once belonged to some more +unfortunate lucky digger, who not having had the sense to sell his gold +to the proprietor of this attractive window had kept his nuggets in his +pocket, thereby tempting some robbers--significantly personified by the +revolver--to shoot him, and steal the gold. Nowhere could you turn your +eye without meeting "30,000 oz. wanted immediately; highest price +given;" "10,000 oz. want to consign per ----; extra price given to +immediate sellers," &c. Outwardly it seemed a city of gold, yet +hundreds were half perishing for want of food, with no place of shelter +beneath which to lay their heads. Many families of freshly-arrived +emigrants--wife, children, and all--slept out in the open air; infants +were born upon the wharves with no helping hand near to support the +wretched mother in her misery. + +How greatly the last few weeks had enlarged Melbourne. Cities of tents +encompassed it on all sides; though, as I said before, the trifling +comfort of a canvas roof above them, was denied to the poorest +of the poor, unless a weekly tax were paid! + +But I must return to ourselves. Our first business the next morning was +to find for our little Jessie some permanent home; for all our +movements were so uncertain--I myself, thinking of a return to the old +country--that it was considered advisable to obtain for her some better +friends than a set of volatile, though good-hearted young fellows--not +the most suitable protection for a young girl, even in so lax a place +as the colonies. We never thought of letting her return to England, for +there the life of a female, who has her own livelihood to earn, is one +of badly-paid labour, entailing constant privation, and often great +misery--if not worse. I have before said that William had relatives in +Melbourne, and to them we determined to entrust her. Mrs. R----- was a +kind-hearted and most exemplary woman; and having a very young family +of her own, was well pleased at such an acquisition as the thoughtful, +industrious little Jessie. Each of our party contributed a +small portion of their golden earnings to form a fund for a future day, +which I doubt not will be increased by our little friend's industry, +long before she needs it. Here let us leave her, trusting that her +future life may be as happy as her many excellent qualities deserve, +and hoping that her severest trials have already passed over her. + +Our next care was to obtain our gold from the Escort-office; to do +which the receipts given in Bendigo had to be handed in, and after very +little delay the precious packets were restored to their respective +owners. The following is a facsimile of the tickets, printed on +parchment, attached to each parcel of which a duplicate, printed on +common paper, is given to the depositor: + + BENDIGO CREEK. + No. 2772. + Date, 8th of October, 1852. + Name, Mr. A----. + Quantity, 60 oz. 10 dwts. + Consigned to, Self. + +The trifling charge for all this trouble and responsibility is sixpence +an ounce. + +The business satisfactorily arranged, the next was to dispose of it. +Some was converted into money, and sold for 69s. an ounce; and the +remainder was consigned to England, where, being very pure and above +standard, it realized 4 pounds an ounce. A great difference that! + +We next paid Richard a visit, who, though surprised was well pleased to +see us again. He declared his resolution of returning to England as +soon as possible. Our party fixed their journey to the Ovens to take +place in three weeks. William determined to remain in town, which I +think showed wisdom on his part as his health was not equal to roughing +it in the bush; and this was a much more formidable trip than the last, +on account of length, and being much less frequented. + +Meanwhile we enjoyed the fine weather, and our present companionship, +as much as possible, while taking little trips here, there, and +everywhere. The one I most enjoyed was a sail in the Bay. The +captain of the vessel in which we left England, was still detained in +Port Philip for want of hands--the case of hundreds--and offered to give +us a sail, and a dinner on board afterwards. We soon made up a large +party, and enjoyed it exceedingly. The day was lovely. We walked down +to Liardet's Beach, a distance of nearly three miles, and were soon +calmly skimming over the waters. We passed St. Kilda and Brighton, and +gained an excellent view of the innumerable vessels then lying useless +and half-deserted in the Bay. + +It was a sad though a pretty sight. There were fine East Indiamen, +emigrant ships, American clippers, steamers, traders--foreign and +English--whalers, &c., waiting there only through want of seamen. + +In the cool of the evening our gallant host rowed us back to the beach. +Since our first landing, tents and stores had been erected in great +numbers, and Little Adelaide was grown wonderfully. I think I have +never mentioned the quantity of frogs that abound in Australia. +This particular evening I remarked them more than usual, and without +the least exaggeration their croaking resembled a number of mills in +motion. I know nothing to which I can more appropriately liken the +noise that resounded along the swampy portions of the road, from the +beach to Melbourne. + +Much has been said of the climate of Australia, and many are the +conflicting statements thereon. The following table contains all the +information--personal and otherwise--which I have been enabled to +collect. + +JANUARY AND FEBRUARY.--Generally the hottest months; average of the +thermometer, 78 in the shade; thunder-storms and COLONIAL showers of +rain occasionally visit us. + +MARCH.--Fine genial weather; average temperature, 73 in the shade. + +APRIL.--Weather more uncertain; mosquitos depart; average temperature, +70 in the shade: + +MAY.--Fine, till towards the latter part of the month, when sometimes +the rainy season commences; average temperature in the shade, 64. + +JUNE.--Rainy, and much cooler; temperature at an average of 58 in the +shade. + +JULY.--Coldest month in the year; midwinter in the colonies; average +temperature, 53. Ice and snow may be seen inland. + +AUGUST.--Very rainy. Average temperature, 58 in the shade. + +SEPTEMBER.--Windy stormy month; weather getting warmer. Average +temperature, 63 in the shade. + +OCTOBER--The presence of the mosquito, a sure proof that the weather is +permanently warm. Average temperature in the shade, 66. + +NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER.--Tropically warm. Locusts, mosquitos, and +unnumbered creeping things swarm both in bush and town. Towards the end +of December the creeks commence to dry up, and the earth looks parched +for want of rain. No yule-log needed on Christmas Day. Thermometer as +high as 97 in the shade; average 75. + +The principal trees in Australia are the gum, stringy bark, manna tree, +wild cherry (so called), iron bark, shea oak, peppermint, +acacia, and the mimosa, which last, however, should more properly be +called a shrub. These and others, like the Indian malelucas, are +remarkable for the Cajeput oil contained in their leaves, and in the +gums which exude from their sterns, and in this point of view alone, +considering their boundless number, their value can hardly be over +estimated. The gum of some of the acacias will bear comparison with +gum-arabic. Their bark and timber are likewise useful, and when the +gold fever has subsided, will become valuable as exports. + +Wild flowers there are in abundance, and some exquisite specimens of +ferns. For the benefit of those better skilled in botany than myself, I +give the following list of Dr. Muller's indigenous plants of Victoria. +Correaochrolenca and Phebalium Asteriscophorum, both with the medical +properties of the Bucco-bush, Eurybia Rhodochaeta, E. Rugosa, E. +Adenophylla, E. Asterotristia, Sambucus, Gaudichaudiana, Prostanthera +Hirsuta, Pimelea axiflora (powerful Surrogat of the Mezerion +shrub), Bossidea decumbcus, Asterotristia asperifolia, Patersonia +aspera, Grevilliea repens, Dallachiana, &c. + +The geranium, fuschia, rhododendrum, and almost all varieties of the +Cacti have been taken to the colonies, and flourish well in the open +air all the year round, growing much more luxuriantly than in England. + +The vineyards must some day form a considerable source of employment +and profit to the colonists. The wine made in Australia is very good. +The vines are cultivated in the same manner as in France. In the +neighbourhood of Sydney, oranges and peaches are grown out in the open +air. Apples and other fruits flourish well in Van Diemen's Land. All +these fruits are not indigenous to Australia. The only articles of food +natural there, are the kangaroos, emus, opossums, and other denizens of +the forest, a few snakes, some roots, and a worm, about the length and +thickness of a finger, which is abundant in all parts of the colony, +and is taken out of the cavities, or from under the bark, of the trees. +It is a great favourite with the blacks, as it can be procured +when no other food is attainable. + +I have before made mention of the bush and scrub; there is a great +dissimilarity between the two. The former resembles a forest, with none +or very little underwood. The scrub, on the contrary, is always +underwood, of from six to twenty feet high, and only here and there a +few trees are seen. To be lost in either bush or scrub is a common +thing. If on horseback the best way is to give the rein to your +four-footed companion, and instinct will most probably enable him to +extricate you. If on foot, ascend, if possible, a rise of ground, and +notice any FALL in the country; here, most likely, is a creek, and once +beside that, you are pretty sure of coming to a station. If this fails, +you must just bush it for the night, and resume your search next +morning, trusting to an occasional "coo-ey" to help you out of your +difficulty. + +The scenery of Australia partakes of all characters. Sometimes miles of +swamp reminds one of the Lincolnshire fens; at other times it assumes +quite a park-like appearance, though the effect is greatly +injured by the want of freshness about the foliage, which always looks +of a dirty, dingy green. The native trees in Australia never shed their +leaves, never have that exquisite young tint which makes an English +spring in the country so delicious. Their faded look always reminded me +of those unfortunate trees imprisoned for so many months beneath the +Crystal Palace. + +The mountains in Australia are high and bold in outline, and the +snow-capped Alps on the boundaries of New South Wales are not unlike +their European namesakes, the highest tops are from six to seven +thousand feet above the level of the sea. The country round Ballarat is +more in the North American style, and when the creek is full, it is a +fine sight, greatly resembling, I have beard, one of the smaller rivers +in Canada; in fact, the scenery round Ballarat is said to approach more +to Upper Canada than any in the colony. The rocks, although not high, +are in places very bold and romantic, and in the wet season there are +several water-falls in the neighbourhood. + +Eels are very plentiful in Victoria, and are peculiar to this district, +being seldom, if ever, found in any other part of the known continent. +Old writers on Australia have stated that eels are unknown in this part +of the world, which, since this colony has been settled in, has been +found to be erroneous, as the Barwin, the Yarra Yarra, and their +tributaries abound with them, some weighing five or six pounds. A few +days after our return from the diggings, we breakfasted off a dish of +stewed eels, caught by a friend; the smallest weighed about a pound and +a half, the largest about three pounds. They were caught three miles +from Melbourne, in the Salt Water Creek. + +A small kind of fish like the lamprey, another similar to the gudgeon, +and also one (of rather a larger kind--the size of the roach) called +here "white herrings," but not at all resembling that fish, are found. +Pike are also very numerous. Crabs and lobsters are not known here, but +in the salt creeks near the sea we have craw-fish. + +Of course, parrots, cockatoos and "sich-like," abound in the +bush, to the horror of the small gardeners and cultivators, as what +they do not eat they ruin by destroying the young shoots. + +Kangaroos are extremely numerous in the scrub. They are the size of a +large greyhound, and of a mouse colour. The natives call them +"kanguru." The tail is of great strength. There are several varieties +of them. The largest is the Great Kangaroo, of a greyish-brown colour, +generally four or five feet high and the tail three. Some kangaroos are +nearly white, others resemble the hare in colour. Pugs, or young +kangaroos, are plentiful about the marshy grounds; so are also the +opossum and kangaroo rat. The latter is not a rat, properly speaking, +but approaches the squirrel tribe. It is a lilliputian kangaroo, the +size of our native wood squirrel and larger, only grey or reddish-grey. +It can leap six or eight feet easily, and is excellent eating. The +native dog is of all colours; it has the head and brush of a fox, with +the body a legs of a dog. It is a cowardly animal, and will run away +from you like mad. It is a great enemy of the kangaroo rat, and +a torment to the squatter, for a native dog has a great PENCHANT for +mutton and will kill thirty or forty sheep in the course of an hour. + +A species of mocking-bird which inhabits the bush is a ludicrous +creature. It imitates everything, and makes many a camping party +imagine there is a man near them, when they hear its whistle or hearty +laugh. This bird is nicknamed the "Jackass," and its loud "ha! ha! ha!" +is heard every morning at dawn echoing through the woods and serving +the purpose of a "boots" by calling the sleepy traveller in good time +to get his breakfast and pursue his journey. The bats here are very +large. + +Insects, fleas, &c., are as plentiful as it is possible to be, and the +ants, of which there are several kinds, are a perfect nuisance. The +largest are called by the old colonists, "bull-dogs," and formidable +creatures they are--luckily not very common, about an inch and a half +long, black, or rusty-black, with a red tail. They bite like a +little crab. Ants of an inch long are quite common. They do not--like the +English ones--run scared away at the sight of a human being--not a +bit of it; Australian ants have more PLUCK, and will turn and face you. +Nay, more, should you RETREAT, they will run after you with all the +impudence imaginable. Often when my organ of destructiveness has +tempted me slightly to disturb with the end of my parasol one of the +many ant-hills on the way from Melbourne to Richmond, I have been +obliged, as soon as they discovered the perpetrator of the attack, to +take to my heels and run away as if for my life. + +Centipedes and triantelopes (colonial, for tarantula) are very common, +and though not exactly fatal, are very dangerous if not attended to. +The deaf adder is the most formidable "varmint" in Australia. There are +two varieties; it is generally about two feet long. The bite is fatal. +The deaf adder never moves unless it is touched, hence its name. I do +not think it has the power of twisting or twirling, like the +ordinary snake or adder and it is very slow in its movements. There are +several species of snakes, some of them are extremely venomous and grow +to a large size, as long as ten feet. The black snake is the most +venomous of any; its bite is fatal within a few hours. + +But let us leave these wilder subjects and return to Melbourne. + +The state of society in the town had not much improved during my +absence. On the public road from Melbourne to St. Kilda, fifteen men +were robbed in one afternoon, and tied to trees within sight of one +another. In Melbourne itself the same want of security prevailed, and +concerts, lectures, &c., were always advertised to take place when +there was a full moon, the only nights any one, unarmed, dared venture, +out after dusk. The following extract from the "Argus," gives a fair +specimen of Melbourne order. + +"We are led to these remarks (referring to a tirade against the +Government) by an occurrence that took place last week in Queen Street, +the whole detail of which is peculiarly illustrative of the +very creditable state of things, to which, under the happy auspices of +a La Trobe dynasty, we are rapidly descending. + +"A ruffian robs a man in a public-house, in broad daylight. He is +pursued by a constable and taken. On the way to the watchhouse a mob +collects, the police are attacked, pistols are pointed, bludgeons and +axe-handles are brought out of the adjacent houses (all still in broad +daylight, and in a busy street), and distributed amongst the crowd, +loud cries inciting attack are heard, a scuffle ensues, the police are +beaten, the prisoner is rescued, the crowd separates, and a man is left +dead upon the ground. The body is taken into a public-house, an inquest +is held, the deceased is recognized as a drunkard, the jury is assured +that a POST-MORTEM examination is quite unnecessary; and the man is +buried, after a verdict is brought in of 'Died by the visitation of +God;' the said visitation of God having, in this instance, assumed the +somewhat peculiar form of a fractured skull!" + +This is a true picture of Melbourne; but whether the "Argus" is +justified in reproaching the "La Trobe dynasty" with it, is quite +another matter. + +In pages like these, anything resembling an argument on the +"transportation question," would be sadly out of place. To avoid +thinking or hearing it was impossible, for during my second stay in +Melbourne, it was a never-failing subject of conversation. In Victoria +(which is only forty-eight hours' journey from Van Diemen's Land), I +have seen the bad results of the mingling of so many transports and +ticket-of-leave men among the free population. On the other hand, I +have heard from many and good authorities, of the substantial benefits +conferred on Sydney and New South Wales by convict labour. It is +difficult to reconcile these two statements, and it is an apple of +discord in the colonies. + +Whilst in Victoria, I met with a great variety of emigrants, and I was +much struck by the great success that seems to have attended on almost +all of those who came out under the auspices of Mrs. Chisholm. No one +in England can fully appreciate the benefits her unwearied +exertions have conferred upon the colonies. I have met many of the +matrons of her ships, and not only do they themselves seem to have made +their way in the world, but the young females who were under their care +during the voyage appear to have done equally well. Perhaps one way of +accounting for this, is the fact that a great many of those going out +by the Chisholm Society are from Scotland, the inhabitants of which +country are peculiarly fortunate in the colonies, their industry, +frugality, and "canniness" being the very qualities to make a fortune +there. "Sydney Herbert's needlewomen" bear but a bad name; and the +worst recommendation a young girl applying for a situation can give, is +to say she came out in that manner--not because the colonists look down +on any one coming out by the assistance of others, but because it is +imagined her female associates on the voyage cannot have been such as +to improve her morality, even if she were good for anything before. + +Much is said and written in England about the scarcity of +females in Australia, and the many good offers awaiting the acceptance +of those who have the courage to travel so far. But the colonial +bachelors, who are so ready to get married, and so very easy in their +choice of a wife, are generally those the least calculated, in spite of +their wealth, to make a respectable girl happy; whilst the better class +of squatters and diggers--if they do not return home to get married, +which is often the case--are not satisfied with any one, however pretty, +for a wife, unless her manners are cultivated and her principles +correct. + +To wander through Melbourne and its environs, no one would imagine that +females were as one to four of the male population; for bonnets and +parasols everywhere outnumber the wide-awakes. This is occasioned by +the absence of so many of the "lords of creation" in pursuit of what +they value--many of them, at least--more than all the women in the +world--nuggets. The wives thus left in town to deplore their husbands' +infatuation, are termed "grass-widows"--a mining expression. + +And now two out of the three weeks of our party's stay in Melbourne has +expired, during which time a change (purely personal) had made my +brother's protection no longer needed by me. MY wedding-trip was to be +to England, and the marriage was to take place, and myself and CARO +SPOSO to leave Australia before my brother departed for the Ovens +diggings. The 'C----,' a fine East Indiaman, then lying in the bay, was +bound for London. We were to be on board by the 12th of November. + +This of course gave me plenty to do, and my last morning but one in +Melbourne was dedicated to that favourite feminine occupation--which, +however, I detest--I mean, shopping. This being accomplished to my great +dissatisfaction--for all I bought could have been obtained, of a better +description, for half the price in England--I was preparing to return +home by way of Collins Street, when my name in familiar accents made me +suddenly pause. I instantly recognised the lady who addressed me as one +of the English governesses in a "finishing" school where three years of +my girlhood were passed. Julia ------ was a great favourite among +us; no one could have done otherwise than admire the ability and +good-humour with which she fulfilled her many arduous duties. Perhaps, +of all miserable positions for a well-educated and refined young person +to be placed in, that of "little girls' teacher" in a lady's school is +the worst. + +Her subsequent history I learnt as we walked together to my present +abode. + +Her mother had had a cousin in Sydney, who being old and unmarried, +wrote to her, promising to settle all his property, which was +considered large, upon her daughter and herself, his only living +relatives, provided they came out to the colonies to live with him +until his death. A sum of money to defray the expenses of the voyage +was enclosed. This piece of unexpected good news was received with +pleasure, and the invitation gladly accepted. They sailed for Sydney. +On arriving there, they found that some speculation, in which he was +greatly involved, had failed; and the old man had taken the loss so +greatly to heart, that he died only five months after having +dispatched the letter to his English relatives. + +Poor Julia was placed in a most painful position. In England she had +scarcely been able to support her invalid mother by her own exertions, +but in a strange country and without friends these difficulties seemed +increased. Her first act was to look over the advertizing columns of +the papers, and her eye caught sight of one which seemed exactly to +suit her. It was, "Wanted, a governess to take the entire charge of a +little girl, the daughter of a widower, and also an elderly lady, to +superintend the domestic arrangements of the same family during the +continual absence of the master at another station." Julia wrote +immediately, and was accepted. In the occasional visits that her +pupil's father paid to his little girl, he could not fail to be struck +by the sweet disposition and many other good qualities of her +governess, and it ended by his making her his wife. I felt at liberty +to congratulate her, for she looked the picture of happiness. I saw her +again next day, when she showed me the advertisement which had +been the means of such a change in her circumstances. + +The day before my departure was a painful one, so many farewells to be +taken of dear friends whom I should never meet again. + +On Friday, the 15th of November, my brother and all our party, Richard +and Jessie included, accompanied us to the pier at Williamstown, to +which we were conveyed by a steamer. For this we paid five shillings +a-piece, and the same for each separate box or parcel, and twelve +shillings to a man for carting our luggage down to the Melbourne wharf, +a distance of not a mile. + +On landing at the pier, how greatly was I astonished to meet Harriette +and her husband. Her modest desires were gratified, and they had +realized sufficient capital at the diggings to enable them to settle +most comfortably near Adelaide. In hurried words she told me this, for +their boat was already alongside the pier waiting to take them to their +ship. Hardly had they departed than a boat arrived from our +vessel to convey us to it. Sad adieux were spoken, and we were rowed +away. + +That evening a pilot came on board, anchors were weighed, we left the +bay, and I saw Melbourne no more. + + + + +Chapter XVII. + + + +HOMEWARD BOUND + + +We soon left Port Philip far behind, and in a few days saw nothing but +a vast expanse of water all around us. Our vessel was filled with +returning diggers; and it is worth while to remark that only two had +been unsuccessful, and these had only been at the diggings a few days. + +One family on board interested me very much. It consisted of father, +mother, and two children. The eldest, a little, girl, had been born +some time before they left England. Her brother was a sturdy fellow of +two years old, born in the colonies soon after their arrival. +He could just toddle about the deck, where he was everlastingly looking +for "dold," and "nuddets." The whole family had been at the diggings +for nine months, and were returning with something more than 2,000 pounds +worth of gold. In England it had been hard work to obtain sufficient +food by the most constant labour; they had good reason to be thankful +for the discovery of the gold-fields. + +Saturday, November 27, was forty-eight hours long, or two days of the +same name and date. Sailing right round the world in the direction of +from west to east, we gained exactly twenty-four hours upon those who +stay at home; and we were therefore obliged to make one day double to +prevent finding ourselves wrong in our dates and days on our arrival in +England. Melbourne is about ten hours before London, and therefore +night, and day are reversed. + +Rapidly it became cooler, for the winds were rather contrary, and drove +us much farther south than was needed. We were glad to avail +ourselves of our opossum rugs to keep ourselves warm. One of these rugs +is quite sufficient covering of a night in the coldest weather, and +imparts as much heat as a dozen blankets. They are made from the skins +of the opossums, sewn together by the natives with the sinews of the +same animal. Each skin is about twelve inches by eight, or smaller; and +as the rugs are generally very large, they contain sometimes as many as +eighty skins. They may be tastefully arranged, as there is a great +difference in the colours; some being like a rich sable, others nearly +black, and others again of a grey and light brown. The fur is long and +silky. At one time a rug of this description was cheap enough--perhaps +as much as two sovereigns but the great demand for them by diggers, +&c., has made them much more scarce, and it now requires a ten +pound-note to get a good one. The best come from Van Diemen's Land. In +summer they are disagreeable, as they harbour insects. + +However, whilst rounding Cape Horn, in the coldest weather I ever +experienced, we were only too happy to throw them over us +during the nights. + +One morning we were awakened by a great confusion on deck. Our ship was +ploughing through a quantity of broken ice. That same afternoon, we +sighted an immense iceberg about ten miles from us. Its size may be +imagined from the fact, that, although we were sailing at a rate of ten +knots an hour, we kept it in sight till dark. This was on the 3rd of +December. + +We soon rounded the Horn, and had some very rough weather. One of the +sailors fell off the jib-boom; and the cry of "man overboard" made our +hearts beat with horror. Every sail was on; we were running right +before the wind, and the waves were mountains high, a boat must have +been swamped; and long before we could "bout ship", he had sunk to +rise no more. + +After rounding Cape Horn, we made rapid progress; by Christmas Day, we +were in the Tropics. It was not kept with much joviality, for water and +food were running scarce. Provisions were so dear in Melbourne, +that they had laid in a short allowance of everything, and our captain +had not anticipated half so many passengers. We tried, therefore, to +put into St. Helena, but contrary winds preventing us, we sailed back +again to the South American coast, and anchored off Pernambuco. It was +providential that economical intentions made our captain prefer this +port, for had we touched at Rio, we should have encountered the yellow +fever, which we afterwards heard was raging there. + +Pernambuco is apparently a very pretty place. We were anchored about +four miles from the town, so had a good view of the coast. I longed to +be on shore to ramble beneath the elegant cocoa-nut-trees. The weather +was intensely hot, for it was in the commencement of January; and the +boats full of fruit, sent from the shore for sale, were soon emptied by +us. I call them boats, but they are properly termed catamarans. They +are made of logs of wood lashed securely together; they have a sail and +oars but no sides, so the water rushes over, and threatens +every moment to engulf the frail conveyance; but no, the wood is too +light for that. The fruits brought us from shore were oranges, +pine-apples, water-melons, limes, bananas, cocoa-nuts, &c., and some +yams, which were a good substitute for potatoes. The fruit was all very +good, and astonishingly cheap; our oranges being green, lasted till we +reached England. Some of our passengers went on shore, and returned +with marvellous accounts of the dirtiness and narrowness of the +streets, and the extremely NATURAL costume of the natives. + +We remained here about four days, and then, with favourable winds, +pursued our voyage at an average rate of ten or twelve knots an hour. +As we neared the English coast, our excitement increased to an awful +height; and for those who had been many years away, I can imagine every +trivial delay was fraught with anxiety. + +But we come in sight of land; and in spite of the cold weather, for it +is now February, 1853, every one rushes to the deck. On we go; +at last we are in the Downs, and then the wind turned right against us. + +Boats were put off from the Deal beach. The boatmen there rightly +calculated that lucky gold-diggers wouldn't mind paying a pound a-piece +to get ashore, so they charged that, and got plenty of customers +notwithstanding. + +On Sunday, the 27th of February, I again set foot on my native land. It +was evening when we reached the shore, and there was only an open +vehicle to convey us to the town of Deal itself. The evening was +bitterly cold, and the snow lay upon the ground. As we proceeded along, +the sounds of the Sabbath bell broke softly on the air. No greeting +could have been more pleasing or more congenial to my feelings. + + + + +Chapter XVIII. + + + +CONCLUSION + + +As I trust that, in the foregoing pages, I have slightly interested my +readers in "our party," the following additional account of their +movements, contained in letters addressed to me by my brother, may not +be quite uninteresting. + +The Ovens diggings are on the river of the same name, which takes its +rise in the Australian Alps, and flows into the Murray. As these Alps +separate New South Wales from Victoria, these diggings belong to the +latter province. They are about forty miles from the town of +Albury. They are spread over a large space of ground. The principal +localities are Spring and Reid's Creeks. + +Now for the letters. + + +"Melbourne, January 5, 1853. +"My dear E--, + +"You'll be surprised at the heading of this but the Ovens are not to my +taste, and I'm off again with Frank and Octavius to Bendigo tomorrow. I +suppose you'll like to hear of our adventures up to the Ovens, and the +reasons for this sudden change of plans. We left Melbourne the Monday +after you sailed, and camped out half-way to Kilmore, a little beyond +the 'Lady of the Lake.' The day was fine, but the dust made us +wretched. Next day, we reached Kilmore--stopped there all night. Next +day on again, and the farther we went, the more uncivilized it +became--hills here, forests there, as wild and savage as any one could +desire. It was 'bushing it' with a vengeance. This lasted several days. +Once we lost our road, and came, by good luck, to a sort of +station. They received us very hospitably, and set us right next +morning. Four days after, we came to the Goulburn river. There was a +punt to take us over, and a host of people (many from Bendigo) waiting +to cross. Three days after, we pitched out tents at the Ovens. Here I +soon saw it was no go. There was too much water, and too little gold; +and even if they could knock the first difficulty on the head, I don't +think they could do the same to the second. In my own mind, I think it +impossible that the Ovens will ever turn out the second Bendigo that +many imagine. Hundreds differ from me, therefore it's hundreds to one +that I'm wrong. The average wages, as far as I can judge, are an ounce +a-week; some much more, many much less. We did not attempt digging +ourselves. Eagle Hawk shallowness has spoilt us, for not even Octavius +(who, you know of old, was a harder worker than either Frank or self) +thinks it worth digging through fourteen or sixteen feet of +hard clay for the mere pleasure of exercising our limbs. Provisions +there were not at the high price that many supposed they would be, but +quite high enough, Heaven knows! Meat was very scarce and bad, and +flour all but a shilling a pound; and if the fresh arrivals keep +flocking in, and no greater supply of food, it will get higher still. +We stayed there two weeks, then brought our dray back again, and are +now busy getting ready for a fresh start to Bendigo. Among other things +we shall take, are lemonade and ginger-beer powders, a profitable +investment, though laughable. The weather is very hot--fancy 103 degrees +in the shade. Water is getting scarce." + + * * * * * + +"Have seen all our friends in Melbourne except Richard, who left for +England a fortnight ago. Jessie is well, and growing quite pretty. She +says she is extremely happy, and sends such a number of +messages to you, that I'll write none, for fear of making a mistake. +Will write again soon." + + * * * * * + +"Your affectionate brother, in haste, +"----" + + + +"Melbourne, April 17, 1853. +"My dear E----, + +"I suppose you've thought I was buried in my hole, or 'kilt' by +bushrangers in the Black Forest; but I've been so occupied in the +worship of Mammon, as to have little thoughts for anything else. + + * * * * * + +"We made a good thing of our last two speculations. Ginger-beer and +lemonade, or lemon kali, at sixpence a tiny glass, paid well. A +successful digger would drink off a dozen one after another. Some days, +we have taken ten pounds in sixpences at this fun. What they +bought of us wouldn't harm them, but many mix up all sorts of injurious +articles to sell; but our consciences, thank God! are not colonised +sufficiently for that. We have had steady good luck in the digging line +(for we combine everything), and after this next trip, mean to dissolve +partnership. + + * * * * * + +"Octavius talks of going out as overseer, or something of that sort, to +some squatter in New South Wales for a year or so, just to learn the +system, &c., and then, if possible, take a sheep-run himself. Frank +means to send for Mrs. Frank and small Co. He says he shall stay in +Victoria for some years. I do believe he likes the colony. As for +myself, I hope to see the last of it in six weeks' time. + +* * * * * + +"Hurrah for Old England!--no place like it. + +* * * * * + +"Your very affectionate brother, +"----" + + +With a cordial assent to the last few words, I conclude these pages. + + + + +APPENDIX + + + +WHO SHOULD EMIGRATE? + + +The question of "Who should emigrate?" has now become one of such +importance (owing to the number who are desirous of quitting their +native land to seek a surer means of subsistence in our vast colonial +possessions), that any book treating of Australia would be sadly +deficient were a subject of such universal interest to be left +unnoticed; and where there are so many of various capabilities, means +and disposititoins, in need of guidance and advice as to the advantage +of their emigrating, it is probable that the experience of any one, +however slight that experience may be, will be useful to some. + +Any one to succeed in the colonies must take with him a quantity of +self-reliance, energy, and perseverance; this is the best capital a man +can have. Let none rely upon introductions--they are but useless things +at the best--they may get you invited to a good dinner; but now that +fresh arrivals in Melbourne are so much more numerous than heretofore, +I almost doubt if they would do even that. A quick, clever fellow with +a trade of his own, inured to labour, and with a light heart, that can +laugh at the many privations which the gipsy sort of life he must lead +in the colonies will entail upon him; any one of this description +cannot fail to get on. But for the number of clerks, shopmen, &c., who +daily arrive in Australia, there is a worse chance of their gaining a +livelihood than if they had remained at home. With this description of +labour the colonial market is largely overstocked; and it is +distressing to notice the number of young men incapable of +severe manual labour, who, with delicate health, and probably still +more delicately filled purses, swarm the towns in search of employment, +and are exposed to heavy expenses which they can earn nothing to meet. +Such men have rarely been successful at the diggings; the demand for +them in their accustomed pursuits is very limited in proportion to +their numbers; they gradually sink into extreme poverty--too often into +reckless or criminal habits--till they disappear from the streets to +make way for others similarly unfortunate. + +A little while since I met with the histories of two individuals +belonging to two very different classes of emigrants; and they are so +applicable to this subject, that I cannot forbear repeating them. + +The first account is that of a gentleman who went to Melbourne some +eight months ago, carrying with him a stock of elegant acquirements and +accomplishments, but little capital. He is now in a starving condition, +almost with-out the hope of extrication, and is imploring from +his friends the means to return to England, if he live long enough to +receive them. The colours in which he paints the colonies are +deplorable in the extreme. + +The other account is that of a compositor who emigrated much about the. +same time. He writes to his former office-mates that he got immediate +and constant employment at the rate of 7 pounds per week, and naturally +thinks that there is no place under the sun like Melbourne. Both +emigrants are right. There is no better place under the sun than +Melbourne for those who can do precisely what the Melbourne people +want; and which they must and will have at any price; but there is no +worse colony to which those can go who have not the capabilities +required by the Melbourne people. They are useless and in the way, +their accomplishments are disregarded, their misfortunes receive no +pity; and, whilst a good carpenter or bricklayer would make a fortune, +a modern Raphael might starve. + +But even those possessed of every qualification for making first-class +colonists, will at first meet with much to surprise and annoy them, and +will need all the energy they possess, to enable them to overcome the +many disagreeables which encounter them as soon as they arrive. + +Let us, for example, suppose the case of an emigrant, with no +particular profession or business, but having a strong constitution, +good common sense, and a determination to bear up against every +hardship, so that in the end it leads him to independence. Let us +follow him through the difficulties that bewilder the stranger in +Melbourne during the first few days of his arrival. + +The commencement of his dilemmas will be that of getting his luggage +from the ship; and so quickly do the demands for pounds and shillings +fall upon him, that he is ready to wish he had pitched half his "traps" +over-board. However, we will suppose him at length safely landed on the +wharf at Melbourne, with all his boxes beside him. He inquires +for a store, and learns that there are plenty close at hand; and then +forgetting that he is in the colonies, he looks round for a porter and +truck, and looks in vain. After waiting as patiently as he can for +about a couple of hours, he manages to hire an empty cart and driver; +the latter lifts the boxes into the conveyance (expecting, of course, +his employer to lend a hand), smacks his whip, and turns down street +after street till he reaches a tall, grim-looking budding, in front of +which he stops, with a "That ere's a store," and a demand for a +sovereign, more or less. This settled, he coolly requests the emigrant +to assist him in unloading, and leaves him to get his boxes carried +inside as best he can. Perhaps some of the storekeeper's men come to +the rescue, and with their help the luggage is conveyed into the +store-room (which is often sixty or eighty feet in length), where the +owner receives a memorandum of their arrival. Boxes or parcels may +remain there in perfect safety for months, so long as a +shilling a week is paid for each. + +Our emigrant, having left his property in security, now turns to seek a +lodging for himself; and the extreme difficulty of procuring house +accommodation, with its natural consequences, an extraordinary rate of +rent, startles and amazes him. He searches the city in vain, and +betakes himself to the suburbs, where he procures a small, +half-furnished room, in a wooden house for thirty shillings a week. The +scarcity of houses in proportion to the population, is one of the +greatest drawbacks to the colony; but we could not expect it to be +otherwise when we remember that in one year Victoria received an +addition of nearly 80,000 inhabitants. The masculine portion of these +emigrants, with few exceptions, started off at once to the diggings; +hence the deficiency in the labour market is only partially filled up +by the few who remained behind, and by the fewer still who forsake the +gold-fields; whilst the abundance of money, and the deficiency of good +workmen, have raised the expenses of building far above the +point at which it would be a profitable investment for capital. +Meantime, the want is only partially supplied by the wooden cottages +which are daily springing up around the boundaries of the city; but +this is insufficient to meet the increasing want of shelter, and on the +southern bank of the Yarra there are four or five thousand people +living in tents. This settlement is appropriately called "Canvas Town." + +But let us return to our newly-arrived emigrant. + +Having succeeded in obtaining a lodging, he proceeds to purchase some +necessary articles of food, and looks incredulously at the shopkeeper +when told that butter is 3s. 6d. a pound, cheese, ham, or bacon 2s. to +2s. 6d., and eggs 4s. or 5s. a dozen. He wisely dispenses with such +luxuries, and contents himself with bread at 1s. 6d. the four-pound +loaf, and meat at 5d. a pound. He sleeps soundly, for the day has been +a fatiguing one, and next morning with renewed spirits +determines to search immediately for employment. He does not much care +what it is at first, so that he earns something; for his purse feels +considerably lighter after the many demands upon it yesterday. Before +an hour is over, he finds himself engaged to a storekeeper at a rate of +three pounds a-week; his business being to load and unload drays, roll +casks, lift heavy goods, &c.; and here we will leave him, for once set +going he will soon find a better berth. If he have capital, it is +doubtless safely deposited in the Bank until a little acquaintance with +the colonies enables him to invest it judiciously; and meanwhile, if wise, +he will spend every shilling as though it were his last; but if his +capital consists only of the trifle in his purse, no matter, the way he +is setting to work will soon rectify that deficiency, and he stands a +good chance in a few years of returning to England a comparatively +wealthy man. + +To those of my own sex who desire to emigrate to Australia, I say do so +by all means, if you can go under suitable protection, possess +good health, are not fastidious or "fine-lady-like," can milk cows, +churn butter, cook a good damper, and mix a pudding. The worst risk you +run is that of getting married, and finding yourself treated with +twenty times the respect and consideration you may meet with in +England. Here (as far as number goes) women beat the "lords of +creation;" in Australia it is the reverse, and, there we may be pretty +sure of having our own way. + +But to those ladies who cannot wait upon themselves, and whose fair +fingers are unused to the exertion of doing anything useful, my advice +is, for your own sakes remain at home. Rich or poor, it is all the +same; for those who can afford to give 40 pounds a-year to a female +servant will scarcely know whether to be pleased or not at the +acquisition, so idle and impertinent are they; scold them, and they will +tell you that "next week Tom, or Bill, or Harry will be back from the +diggings, and then they'll be married, and wear silk dresses, and be as +fine a lady as yourself;" and with some such words will coolly dismiss +themselves from your service, leaving their poor unfortunate mistress +uncertain whether to be glad of their departure or ready to cry because +there's nothing prepared for dinner, and she knows not what to set +about first. + +For those who wish to invest small sums in goods for Australia, boots +and shoes, cutlery, flash jewellery, watches, pistols (particulary +revolvers), gunpowder, fancy articles, cheap laces, and baby-linen +offer immense profits. + +The police in Victoria is very inefficient, both in the towns and on +the roads. Fifteen persons were stopped during the same afternoon +whilst travelling on the highway between Melbourne and St. Kilda. They +were robbed, and tied to trees within sight of each other--this too in +broad daylight. On the roads to the diggings it is still worse; and no +one intending to turn digger should leave England without a good supply +of fire-arms. In less than one week more than a dozen robberies +occurred between Kyneton and Forest Creek, two of which terminated in +murder. The diggings themselves are comparatively safe--quite as much +so as Melbourne itself--and there is a freemasonry in the bush which +possesses an irresistible charm for adventurous bachelors, and causes +them to prefer the risk of bushrangers to witnessing the dreadful +scenes that are daily and hourly enacting in a colonial town. Life in +the bush is wild, free and independent. Healthy exercise, fine scenery, +and a clear and buoyant atmosphere, maintain an excitement of the +spirits and a sanguineness of temperament peculiar to this sort of +existence; and many are the pleasant evenings, enlivened with the gay +jest or cheerful song, which are passed around the bush fires of +Australia. + +The latest accounts from the diggings speak of them most encouragingly. +Out of a population of 200,000 (which is calculated to be the number of +the present inhabitants of Victoria), half are said to be at the +gold-fields, and the average earnings are still reckoned at +nearly an ounce per man per week. Ballarat is again rising into favour, +and its riches are being more fully developed. The gold there is more +unequally distributed than at Mount Alexander, and therefore the +proportion of successful to unsuccessful diggers is not so great as at +the latter place. But then the individual gains are in some cases +greater. The labour is also more severe than at the Mount or Bendigo, +as the gold lies deeper, and more numerous trials have to be made +before the deposits are struck upon. + +The Ovens is admitted to be a rich gold-field, but the work there is +severely laborious, owing to a super-abundance of water. + +The astonishing mineral wealth of Mount Alexander is evidenced by the +large amounts which it continues to yield, notwithstanding the immense +quantities that have already been taken from it. The whole country in +that neighbourhood appears to be more or less auriferous. + +Up to the close of last year the total supposed amount of gold procured +from the Victoria diggings, is 3,998,324 ounces, which, when calculated +at the average English value of 4 pounds an ounce, is worth nearly SIXTEEN +MILLIONS STERLING. One-third of this is distinctly authenticated as +having come down by escort during the three last mouths of 1852. + +In Melbourne the extremes of wealth and poverty meet, and many are the +anecdotes of the lavish expenditure of successful diggers that are +circulated throughout the town. I shall only relate two which fell +under my own observation. + +Having occasion to make a few purchases in the linen drapery line, I +entered a good establishment in Collins Street for that purpose. It was +before noon, for later in the day the shops are so full that to get a +trifling order attended to would be almost a miracle. There was only +one customer in the shop, who was standing beside the counter, gazing +with extreme dissatisfaction upon a quantity of goods of various +colours and materials that lay there for his inspection. He was +a rough-looking customer enough, and the appearance of his hands gave +strong indication that the pickaxe and spade were among the last tools +he had handled. + +"It's a SHINY thing that I want," he was saying as I entered. + +"These are what we should call shining goods," said the shopman, as he +held up the silks, alpacas, &c., to the light. + +"They're not the SHINY sort that I want," pursued the digger, +half-doggedly, half-angrily. "I'll find another shop; I guess you won't +show your best goods to me--you think, mayhap, I can't pay for them--but +I can, though," and he laid a note for fifty pounds upon the counter, +adding, "maybe you'll show me some SHINY stuff now!" + +Unable to comprehend the wishes of his customer, the shopman called to +his assistance the master of the establishment, who being, I suppose, +of quicker apprehension, placed some satins before him. + +"I thought the paper would help you find it. I want a gown for my +missus. What's the price?" + +"Twenty yards at one-ten--thirty pounds. That do, Sir?" + +"No; not good enough!" was the energetic reply. + +The shrewd shopkeeper quickly fathomed his customer's desires, and now +displayed before him a rich orange-coloured satin, which elicited an +exclamation of delight. + +"Twenty-five yards--couldn't sell less, it's a remnant--at three pounds +the yard." + +"That's the go!" interrupted the digger, throwing some more notes upon +the counter. "My missus was married in a cotton gown, and now she'll +have a real gold 'un!" + +And seizing the satin from the shopkeeper, he twisted up the portion +that had been unrolled for his inspection, placed the whole under his +arm, and triumphantly walked out of the shop, little thinking how he +had been cheated. + +"A 'lucky digger' that," observed the shopman, as he attended to my +wants. + +I could not forbear a smile, for I pictured to myself the digger's wife +mixing a damper with the sleeves of her dazzling satin dress tucked up +above her elbows. + +A few days after, a heavy shower drove me to take shelter in a +pastry-cook's, where, under the pretence of eating a bun, I escaped a +good drenching. Hardly had I been seated five minutes, when a +sailor-looking personage entered, and addressed the shopwoman with: +"I'm agoing to be spliced to-morrow, young woman; show us some large +wedding-cakes." + +The largest (which was but a small one) was placed before him, and +eighteen pounds demanded for it. He laid down four five-pound notes +upon the counter, and taking up the cake, told her to "keep the change +to buy ribbons with." + +"Pleasant to have plenty of gold-digging friends," I remarked, by way +of saying something. + +"Not a friend," said she, smiling. "I never saw him before. I expect +he's only a successful digger." + +Turn we now to the darker side of this picture. + +My favourite walk, whilst in Melbourne, was over Prince's Bridge, and +along the road to Liardet's Beach, thus passing close to the canvas +settlement, called Little Adelaide. One day, about a week before we +embarked for England, I took my accustomed walk in this direction, and +as I passed the tents, was much struck by the appearance of a little +girl, who, with a large pitcher in her arms, came to procure some water +from a small stream beside the road. Her dress, though clean and neat, +bespoke extreme poverty; and her countenance had a wan, sad expression +upon it which would have touched the most indifferent beholder, and +left an impression deeper even than that produced by her extreme though +delicate beauty. + +I made a slight attempt at acquaintanceship by assisting to +fill her pitcher, which was far too heavy, when full of water, for so +slight a child to carry, and pointing to the rise of ground on which +the tents stood, I inquired if she lived among them. + +She nodded her head in token of assent. + +"And have you been long here? and do you like this new country?" I +continued, determined to hear if her voice was as pleasing as her +countenance. + +"No!" she answered quickly; "we starve here. There was plenty of food +when we were in England;" and then her childish reserve giving way, she +spoke more fully of her troubles, and a sad though a common tale it +was. + +Some of the particulars I learnt afterwards. Her father had held an +appointment under Government, and had lived upon the income derived +from it for some years, when he was tempted to try and do better in the +colonies. His wife (the daughter of a clergyman, well educated, and who +before her marriage had been a governess) accompanied him with +their three children. On arriving in Melbourne (which was about three +months previous), he found that situations equal in value, according to +the relative prices of food and lodging, to that which he had thrown up +in England were not so easily procured as he had been led to expect. +Half desperate, he went to the diggings, leaving his wife with little +money, and many promises of quick remittances of gold by the escort. +But week followed week, and neither remittances nor letters came. They +removed to humbler lodgings, every little article of value was +gradually sold, for, unused to bodily labour, or even to sit for hours +at the needle, the deserted wife could earn but little. Then sickness +came; there were no means of paying for medical advice, and one child +died. After this, step by step, they became poorer, until half a tent +in Little Adelaide was the only refuge left. + +As we reached it, the little girl drew aside the canvas, and partly +invited me to enter. I glanced in; it was a dismal sight. In +one corner lay the mother, a blanket her only protection from the humid +soil, and cowering down beside her was her other child. I could not +enter; it seemed like a heartless intrusion upon misery; so, slipping +the contents of my purse (which were unfortunately only a few +shillings) into the little, girl's hand, I hurried away, scarcely +waiting to notice the smile that thanked me so eloquently. On arriving +at home, I found that my friends were absent, and being detained by +business, they did not return till after dusk, so it was impossible for +that day to afford them any assistance. Early next morning we took a +little wine and other trifling articles with us, and proceeded to +Little Adelaide. On entering the tent, we found that the sorrows of the +unfortunate mother were at an end; privation, ill health and anxiety had +claimed their victim. Her husband sat beside the corpse, and the golden +nuggets, which in his despair he had flung upon the ground, formed a +painful contrast to the scene of poverty and death. + +The first six weeks of his career at the diggings had been most +unsuccessful, and he had suffered as much from want as his unhappy +wife. Then came a sudden change of fortune, and in two weeks more he +was comparatively rich. He hastened immediately to Melbourne, and for a +whole week had sought his family in vain. At length, on the preceding +evening, he found them only in time to witness the last moments of his +wife. + +Sad as this history may appear, it is not so sad as many, many others; +for often, instead of returning with gold, the digger is never heard of +more. + +In England many imagine that the principal labour at the diggings +consists in stooping to pick up the lumps of gold which lie upon the +ground at their feet, only waiting for some one to take possession of +them. These people, when told of holes being dug in depths of from +seven to forty feet before arriving at the desired metal, look upon +such statements as so many myths, or fancy they are fabricated by the +lucky gold-finders to deter too many others from coming to take +a share of the precious spoil. There was a passenger on board the +vessel which took me to Australia, who held some such opinions as +these, and, although in other respects a sensible man, he used +seriously to believe that every day that we were delayed by contrary +winds he could have been picking up fifty or a hundred pounds worth of +gold had he but been at the diggings. He went to Bendigo the third day +after we landed, stayed there a fortnight, left it in disgust, and +returned to England immediately--poorer than he had started. + +This is not an isolated case. young men of sanguine dispositions read +the startling amounts of gold shipped from the colonies, they think of +the "John Bull Nugget" and other similar prizes, turn a deaf ear when +you speak of blanks, and determiinately overlook the vast amount of +labour which the gold diggings have consumed. Whenever I meet with this +class of would-be emigrants, the remarks of an old digger, which I once +over heard, recur to my mind. The conversation at the time was +turned upon the subject of the many young men flocking from the "old +country" to the gold-fields, and their evident unfitness for them. +"Every young man before paying his passage money," said he, "should take +a few days' spell at well-sinking in England; if he can stand that +comfortably, the diggings won't hurt him." + +Many are sadly disappointed on arriving in Victoria, at being unable to +invest their capital or savings in the purchase of about a hundred +acres of land, sufficient for a small farm. I have referred to this +subject before, but cannot resist adding some facts which bear upon it. + +By a return of the LAND SALES of Victoria, from 1837 to 1851, it +appears that 380,000 acres of land were sold in the whole colony; and +the sum realized by Government was 700,000 pounds. In a return published +in 1849, it is stated that there were THREE persons who each held singly +more land in their own hands than had been sold to all the rest of the +colony in fourteen years, for which they paid the sum of 30 pounds +each per annum. Yet, whilst 700,000 pounds is realized by the sale of +land, and not 100 pounds a-year gained by LETTING three times the +quantity, the Colonial Government persists in the latter course, in spite +of the reiterated disapprobation of the colonists themselves; and by one +of the last gazettes of Governor La Trobe, he has ordered 681,700 acres, +or 1,065 square miles, to be given over to the squatters. The result of +this is, that many emigrants landing in Victoria are compelled to turn +their steps towards the sister colony of Adelaide. There was a family +who landed in Melbourne whilst I was there. It consisted of the +parents, and several grown-up sons and daughters. The father had held a +small tenant farm in England, and having saved a few hundreds, +determined to invest it in Australian land. He brought out with him +many agricultural implements, an iron house, &c.; and on his arrival +found, to his dismay, that no less than 640 acres of crown lands could +be sold, at a time, at the upset price of one pound an acre. This was +more than his capital could afford, and they left for Adelaide. The +expenses of getting his goods to and from the ships, of storing them, +of supporting his family while in Melbourne, and of paying their +passage to Adelaide, amounted almost to 100 pounds. Thus he lost nearly a +fourth of his capital, and Victoria a family who would have made good +colonists. + +Much is done now-a-days to assist emigration, but far greater exertions +are needed before either the demand for labour in the colonies or the +over-supply of it in England can be exhausted. Pass down the best +streets of Melbourne: you see one or two good shops or houses, and on +either side an empty spot or a mass of rubbish. The ground has been +bought, the plans for the proposed budding are all ready. Then why not +commence?--there are no workmen. Bricks are wanted, and 15 pounds a +thousand is offered; carpenters are advertized for at 8 pounds a week; yet +the building makes no progress--there are no workmen. Go down towards the +Yarra, and an unfinished Church will attract attention. Are funds wanting +for its completion? No. Thousands were subscribed in one day, and would +be again were it necessary; but that building, like every other, is +stopped for lack of workmen. In vain the bishop himself published an +appeal to the various labourers required offering the very highest +wages; others offered higher wages still, and the church (up to the +time I left Victoria) remained unfinished. And yet, whilst labour +is so scarce, so needed in the colonies, there are thousands in our own +country ABLE AND WILLING TO WORK, whose lives here are one of prolonged +privation, whose eyes are never gladdened by the sight of nature, who +inhale no purer atmosphere than the tainted air of the dark courts and +dismal cellars in which they herd. Send them to the colonies--food and +pure air would at least be theirs--and much misery would be turned into +positive happiness. + +I heard of a lady who every year sent out a whole family from +the poor but hard-working classes to the colonies (it was through one +of the objects of her thoughtful benevolence that this annual act +became known to me), and what happiness must it bring when she reflects +on the heartfelt blessings that are showered upon her from the far-off +land of Australia. Surely, among the rich and the influential, there +are many who, out of the abundance of their wealth, could "go and do +likewise." + + + +THE END. + + + +End of this Project Gutenberg etext of A Lady's Visit to the Gold +Diggings of Australia in 1852-53, by Mrs. Charles (Ellen) Clacy + diff --git a/old/lvtgd10.zip b/old/lvtgd10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9bf670 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/lvtgd10.zip |