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@@ -1,38 +1,4 @@
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Spanish Vistas, by George Parsons Lathrop
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Spanish Vistas
-
-Author: George Parsons Lathrop
-
-Illustrator: Charles S. Reinhart
-
-Release Date: August 18, 2012 [EBook #40528]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPANISH VISTAS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40528 ***
 
 [Illustration: A MANDURRA SOLO.]
 
@@ -328,7 +294,7 @@ FLOWERS FOR THE MARKET                                 85
 
 TRAVELLERS TO CORDOVA                                  87
 
-"ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!"                                   89
+"ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!"                                   89
 
 THE FRUIT OF THE DESIERTA                              94
 
@@ -433,7 +399,7 @@ Ancient houses on either side the stage narrow back to an archway in the
 centre, opening through to a pillared walk and a dimly moonlit space
 beyond. Muffled figures occasionally pass the aperture.
 
-Suddenly enters Don Ramiro--or Alvar Nuñez, I really don't know
+Suddenly enters Don Ramiro--or Alvar Nuñez, I really don't know
 which--and advances toward the front. To our surprise he does not open
 the play with a set speech or any explanation, but continues to advance
 until he disappears somewhere under our private box, as if he were going
@@ -455,7 +421,7 @@ of amusement caused to certain wandering Spaniards by some convulsingly
 funny episode; and the next moment their party comes upon the scene at
 about the point where the foot-lights ought to be. They exchange a
 good-night; some go off, and others thunder at sundry doors with ancient
-knockers, awaking mediæval echoes in the dingy thoroughfares, without
+knockers, awaking mediæval echoes in the dingy thoroughfares, without
 causing any great surprise to the neighborhood.
 
 [Illustration: TWO ASSASSINS IN LONG CLOAKS.]
@@ -465,7 +431,7 @@ we had just arrived; but everything had grouped itself in such a way
 that it was hard to comprehend that we were not at the theatre. That day
 we had been hurled over the Pyrenees, and landed in the dark at our
 first Peninsular station; then, facing a crowd of fierce, uncouth faces
-at the depôt door, we had somehow got conveyed to the Inn of the North
+at the depôt door, we had somehow got conveyed to the Inn of the North
 through narrow, cavernous streets, brightened only by the feeble light
 of a few lost lanterns, and so found ourselves staring out upon our
 first picturesque night in Spain. The street or plazuela below us,
@@ -557,7 +523,7 @@ the small street from which it should emerge, to behold eight huge
 figures, looking half as high as the houses, in long robes, and with
 placidly unreal expressions on their gigantic faces, advancing with that
 peculiar unconscious gait due to human leg-power when concealed under
-papier-maché monsters. It took but a glance, as they filed out and
+papier-maché monsters. It took but a glance, as they filed out and
 aligned themselves on the small sunny square, to recognize in them the
 Kings of the Earth, come in person to do homage before the Christ. One
 bore a crown and ermine as insignia of the Castilian line; others were
@@ -604,8 +570,8 @@ shrunken river, with borders of chubby shade trees and shrubbery. On
 Corpus Christi the citizens also turned out in the arcades of the Main
 Plaza. Here, and later in the dusty dusk of The Spur, they crowded and
 chatted, in accordance with native ideas of enjoyment; and except that
-their mantillas and shoulder-veils[2] made a difference, the señoras and
-señoritas might have passed for Americans, so delicate were their
+their mantillas and shoulder-veils[2] made a difference, the señoras and
+señoritas might have passed for Americans, so delicate were their
 features, so trim their daintily-attired figures, though perhaps they
 hadn't a coin in their pockets. The men had the universal Iberian habit
 of carrying their light overcoats folded over the left shoulder; but
@@ -620,8 +586,8 @@ whisper complimentary speeches into their ears; no one, not even
 relatives of the damsels, resenting this freedom.
 
 At Las Huelgas, a famous convent near the town, much resorted to by nuns
-of aristocratic family (even the Empress Eugénie it was thought would
-retire thither after her son's death), the fête was renewed next day;
+of aristocratic family (even the Empress Eugénie it was thought would
+retire thither after her son's death), the fête was renewed next day;
 and it was here that we saw beggars in perfection. A huge stork's nest
 was perched high on one end of the chapel, as on many churches of Spain.
 Bombs were fired above the crowd from the high square tower that rose
@@ -688,7 +654,7 @@ these people to think of manufacturing an article for which they have so
 little use. I am bound to add that I did not see an ounce of it sold;
 and I have my suspicions that the business is merely a traditional
 one--the same big cheese-like chunks being probably brought out at every
-fair and fête, as a time-honored symbol of Castilian prosperity. But,
+fair and fête, as a time-honored symbol of Castilian prosperity. But,
 after all, so devout a community must be convinced that it possesses
 godliness; and having that, what do they need of the proximate virtue?
 This is the region where the inhabitants refer to themselves as "old and
@@ -832,7 +798,7 @@ darkened the sidewalks, many others, on account of the growing prejudice
 against them, went about in frock-coats and ordinary tall hats. And
 under all its crowning beauty the old minster, motionless in the centre
 of the stagnant town--its chief entrance walled up, and a notice painted
-on its Late Roman façade warning boys not to play ball against the
+on its Late Roman façade warning boys not to play ball against the
 tempting masonry--wore the look of some neglected and half-blind thing,
 once glorious, symbol of a power abruptly stayed in its prodigious
 career.
@@ -900,7 +866,7 @@ to shoot us than not, unless it was that we were too rich a "find" to be
 disposed of immediately--squandered, as it were? Perhaps the torture of
 suspense suited the enormity of our case, but it was certainly cruel.
 There was some satisfaction, however, in finding that when we left the
-depôt they allowed us a restricted liberty, and kept out of our way. If
+depôt they allowed us a restricted liberty, and kept out of our way. If
 it had been otherwise, I don't know what they would have done to us at
 Burgos, for it was there that the landlady forced upon us a gold piece
 that would not pass, in exchange for a good one which we had given her.
@@ -931,7 +897,7 @@ English.
 
 The terrible truth was now clear. My eye caught, at the same instant, a
 card in the window which proved beyond question that we had got into the
-carriage for señoras.
+carriage for señoras.
 
 The result of this adventure was that we found the nun to be an English
 Catholic, employed in teaching at a religious establishment, and her
@@ -944,7 +910,7 @@ There indeed they were, when we tumbled out into the obscurity, with
 their white-hooded heads looming above their muskets in startling
 disconnectedness. Telling Velazquez, with all the firmness I possessed,
 to bare his breast to the avenging sword, I hastened to get into a
-coupé, preferring to die comfortably. He, however, ignominiously
+coupé, preferring to die comfortably. He, however, ignominiously
 followed me. It is true, we were not molested; but the shock of that
 narrow escape kept us wakeful.
 
@@ -964,20 +930,20 @@ product of such soil must perforce be meagre and melancholy; and the
 pensiveness which we see in most Spanish faces seems a reflection of the
 landscape which surrounds them.
 
-The Madrileños offer not a flat, but rather an extremely round
+The Madrileños offer not a flat, but rather an extremely round
 contradiction to this general and accepted idea of the national
 appearance. Slenderness is the exception with them. Their city is a
 forced flower in the midst of mountain lands, and the men themselves
 rejoice in a rotund and puffy look of success, which also partakes of
 the hot-house character. They are people of leisure, and, after their
-manner, of pleasure. How they swarm in the cafés in the Gate of the
+manner, of pleasure. How they swarm in the cafés in the Gate of the
 Sun--where they keep up the Moorish custom of calling waiters by two
-claps of the hands--or on the one great thoroughfare, Calle de Alcalá,
+claps of the hands--or on the one great thoroughfare, Calle de Alcalá,
 or in the bull-ring of a Sunday! They are never at rest, yet never
 altogether active. They never sleep, or, if they do, others take their
 places in the public resorts. The clamor of the streets, and even the
 snarling cry of the news-venders--"_La Correspondencia_," or "_El
-Demó-crata-a_"--is kept up until the small hours; and at five or six the
+Demó-crata-a_"--is kept up until the small hours; and at five or six the
 restless stir begins again with the silver tinkling of fleet mule-bells.
 There are no night-howling watchmen in Madrid; but the custom of
 street-hawking is rampant in Spain; and here, in addition to the
@@ -1013,7 +979,7 @@ naturally does not see a great deal of these; and then it may be doubted
 whether they really exist to the same extent as in most other civilized
 capitals. It becomes wearisome to make sallies upon the town, and day
 after day find so much of the population trying to divert itself, or
-killing time in the cafés and clubs. The feeling deepens that they
+killing time in the cafés and clubs. The feeling deepens that they
 resort to these for want of a sufficiently close interest in their
 homes. More than that, they do not seem really to be amused. Even their
 language fails to express the amusement idea; the most that anything can
@@ -1021,7 +987,7 @@ be for them, in the vernacular, is "entertaining." Still the choice of
 light diversion is varied enough. Opera flourishes in winter; in spring
 and summer the bull-fight; theatres are always in blast; cocking-mains
 are kept up. Hitherto gambling has been another favorite pastime until
-checked by the authorities. Not content with all this, the Madrileños
+checked by the authorities. Not content with all this, the Madrileños
 seek in lottery shops that excitement which Americans derive from
 drinking-saloons. The brightly lighted lottery agency occurs as
 frequently as that other indication of disease, the apothecary's window,
@@ -1054,8 +1020,8 @@ the carved sticks known as _molinillos_ (little mills), with which
 chocolate is mixed by a dexterous spinning motion. The donkey feels
 himself at home once more in these narrow thoroughfares; the evil sewage
 smell, which oozes through even the most pretentious edifices in the new
-quarters, diffuses itself again in full vigor, and the cafés become
-dingy and unconventional. On the Alcalá, or San Geronimo, the
+quarters, diffuses itself again in full vigor, and the cafés become
+dingy and unconventional. On the Alcalá, or San Geronimo, the
 carefully-dressed men sip beer and cordials, or possibly indulge in
 sparkling sherry--a new and expensive wine like dry champagne; but here
 the rougher element is satisfied with _aguardiente_ (the liquor
@@ -1104,7 +1070,7 @@ saints and services of the day; besides which special masses for the
 souls of departed capitalists are constantly announced, with a request
 that friends shall attend. These paid rites doubtless offer a pleasant
 exception to the routine of commonplace church-going. Thus, while the
-men are absorbed by their cafés and politics, their countless cigarettes
+men are absorbed by their cafés and politics, their countless cigarettes
 and lottery tickets, with a minimum of business and a maximum of
 dominoes, the women fill up their time with matins and vespers,
 confessions and intrigues. It would be merely repeating the frank
@@ -1130,7 +1096,7 @@ two or three state dinners, a year.
 [Illustration: THE ESCORIAL.]
 
 To be sure, no capital is better provided with sundry of the higher
-means to cultivation, as its Royal Armory, its Archæological Museum, and
+means to cultivation, as its Royal Armory, its Archæological Museum, and
 its glorious Picture-gallery--in some respects the noblest of
 Europe--remind one. Moreover, in the neighboring Escorial, that dark
 jewel in the head of Philip II., travellers find a rich monument of art,
@@ -1157,13 +1123,13 @@ of our varnished period concern themselves. The opera, the circus, and
 the _Corrida de Toros_--the irrepressible bull-fight--are to them of far
 more consequence.
 
-In every crowd and café you see the tall, shapely, dark-faced, silent
+In every crowd and café you see the tall, shapely, dark-faced, silent
 men, with a cool, professionally murderous look like that of our border
 desperadoes, whose enormously wide black hats, short jackets, tight
 trousers, and pigtails of braided hair proclaim them _chulos_, or
 members of the noble ring. Intrepid, with muscles of steel, and finely
 formed, they are very illiterate: we saw one of them gently taking his
-brandy at the Café de Paris after a hard combat, while his friend read
+brandy at the Café de Paris after a hard combat, while his friend read
 from an evening paper a report of the games in which he had just
 fought--the man's own education not enabling him to decipher print. But
 the higher class of these professionals are the idols, the demi-gods, of
@@ -1491,7 +1457,7 @@ maintained here; and then, when we had rambled about a church of
 Santiago lower down, passing through some streets irregular as
 foot-paths, where over a neglected door stood a unique announcement of
 the owner's name--"I am Don Sanchez. 1792"--we came to the Visagra, the
-country gate. This menacing, double-towered portal is mediæval; so that
+country gate. This menacing, double-towered portal is mediæval; so that
 a few steps had carried us from Mohammedan Alimaymon to the Emperor
 Charles V. Just outside of it again is the Alameda, the modern garden
 promenade, where the beauty and idleness of Toledo congregate on Sunday
@@ -1503,7 +1469,7 @@ below the green hedges, you still see the sun-parched soil just as it
 once spread over the whole area. The contrast suggests Eden blossoming
 on a crater-side.
 
-At the open-air soirées of the Alameda may be seen excellent examples of
+At the open-air soirées of the Alameda may be seen excellent examples of
 Spanish beauty. The national type of woman appears here in good
 preservation, and not too much hampered by foreign airs. Doubtless one
 finds it too in Burgos and Madrid, and in fact everywhere; and the grace
@@ -1679,7 +1645,7 @@ exerted himself to entertain us. The chief street was lined with awnings
 reaching to the curb-stone in front of the shops, and every public
 door-way was screened by a striped curtain. Pushing aside one of these,
 our new acquaintance introduced us to what seemed a dingy bar, but, by a
-series of turnings, opened out into a spacious concealed café--that of
+series of turnings, opened out into a spacious concealed café--that of
 the Two Brothers--where we frequently repaired with him to sip chiccory
 and cognac or play dominos. On these occasions he kept the tally in
 pencil on the marble table, marking the side of himself and a friend
@@ -1912,7 +1878,7 @@ to have been drilled there by the sand-blast process.
 The women, however, even in the humbler class, preserve a fine, fresh
 animal health, which makes you wonder how they ever grow old, until you
 see some tottering creature who is little more than a mass of sinews and
-wrinkles held together by a skirt and a neckerchief--the _pañuclo_
+wrinkles held together by a skirt and a neckerchief--the _pañuclo_
 universal with her sex. At noon and evening the serving-women came out
 to the fountains, distributed here and there under groups of miniature
 locust-trees, to fetch water for their houses. They carried huge earthen
@@ -1929,7 +1895,7 @@ room made for the money-changers' benches, and an unimaginable jumble of
 palaces once thronged with powerful courtiers and abundant in wealth,
 but at this day chiefly inhabited by persons of humble quality. Nightly
 there glows in the second story of a building on the Zocodover, where
-_autos-da-fé_ used to be held, a large arched shrine of the Virgin hung
+_autos-da-fé_ used to be held, a large arched shrine of the Virgin hung
 with mellow lamps, so that not even with departing daylight shall
 religious duty be put aside by the commonplace crowd shuffling through
 the plaza beneath. Everywhere in angles and turnings and archways one
@@ -2052,7 +2018,7 @@ fell upon the explorers, and the cavern was again closed, remaining even
 yet a reservoir of mystery. There are equally mysterious things above
 ground, however, as will shortly be demonstrated by the tale of the
 "Christ of Compassion." Let me, before giving that, recall here a more
-poetic tradition, preserved by Señor Eugenio Olavarria, a young author
+poetic tradition, preserved by Señor Eugenio Olavarria, a young author
 of Madrid. We saw just outside the mosque-church of the Christ of Light
 an old Moorish well, of a kind common in Spain, with a low thick wall
 surrounding the deep sunken shaft, to rest the bucket-chain on when it
@@ -2161,8 +2127,8 @@ assassins. Don Lope rushed forward in pursuit, and in his rage hacked
 the stones with his sword as if to cut his way through. The marks made
 in the stone by his weapon are still to be seen there." The
 compassionate face still looks down from the shrine, and little
-sign-boards announce indulgences to those who pray there: "Señor Don
-Luis Maria de Borbon, most Illustrious Señor Bishop of Carista, grants
+sign-boards announce indulgences to those who pray there: "Señor Don
+Luis Maria de Borbon, most Illustrious Señor Bishop of Carista, grants
 forty days' indulgence to all who with grief for their sins say, 'Lord
 have mercy on me!' or make the acts of Faith, Charity, and Hope before
 this image, praying for the necessities of the Church."
@@ -2304,7 +2270,7 @@ The night journeys by rail, so much in vogue in Spain, have their
 advantages and their drawbacks. At Castillejo, a junction on the way to
 Cordova, we had to wait four hours in the evening at a distance of
 twenty miles from the nearest restaurant. The country around was
-absolutely desolate except for tufts of the _retamé_--a sort of broom
+absolutely desolate except for tufts of the _retamé_--a sort of broom
 with slim green and silvered leaves, which grows wild, and, after
 drying, is used by the peasants as a substitute for rye or wheat flour.
 Only two or three houses were in sight. The tracks with cars standing on
@@ -2391,7 +2357,7 @@ sweeps, moving through the land at the bottom of what might have been an
 enormous drain, turned out to be the famous Guadalquivir, which, as Ford
 vividly puts it, "eats its dull way through loamy banks." At last
 Cordova, seated in an ample plain--Cordova, in vanished ages the home of
-Seneca, Lucan, Averroës, and the poet Juan de Mena--Cordova, white in
+Seneca, Lucan, Averroës, and the poet Juan de Mena--Cordova, white in
 the dry and gritty sun-dazzled air, with square, unshadowed two-story
 houses, overlooked by the bell-tower of its incomparable Mezquita
 Cathedral: a cheerful Southern city, maintaining large gardens,
@@ -2685,7 +2651,7 @@ echo. Profiting by the great man's siesta, we extracted the desired
 permission from his severe-faced but courteous secretary, who marked the
 document "Especial."
 
-[Illustration: "ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!"]
+[Illustration: "ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!"]
 
 Our brief cavalcade of donkeys started the next morning at five, after
 we had taken a preternaturally early cup of chocolate. The donkeys
@@ -2700,11 +2666,11 @@ literary appellation of "College."
 
 "To the right, College!" our muleteer would shout, exercising a despotic
 power over my four-footed institution of learning. "Get up, little mule.
-_Arré burr-r-rico!_" Firing off a volley of _r_'s with a tremendous
+_Arré burr-r-rico!_" Firing off a volley of _r_'s with a tremendous
 rising and falling intonation, which invariably moved the brute to take
 one or two rapid steps before dropping back into his customary slow
 walk. As the heat increased, and the way grew steeper, he sighed out his
-"arré"--gee up--in a long, melancholy drawl, which seemed to express
+"arré"--gee up--in a long, melancholy drawl, which seemed to express
 profound despair concerning the mulish race generally. Muleteers in
 Spain are termed generically, from this surviving Arabic word,
 _arrieros_, or, as we may translate it, "gee-uppers."
@@ -2713,7 +2679,7 @@ In this manner we made our way along the dusty road among olive
 orchards, and a sort of oak called _japarros_, until we began to mount
 by a rough, stony path which sometimes divided itself like the branches
 of a torrent, though we more than once succeeded in prodding the donkeys
-into a lively canter. The white façades of villas--_quintas_ or
+into a lively canter. The white façades of villas--_quintas_ or
 _carmens_ they are denominated hereabout--twinkled out from nooks of the
 hills; but at that early hour everything was very still. We could almost
 _see_ the silence around us. Higher up, unknown birds began to sing in
@@ -2904,7 +2870,7 @@ contented.
 We breakfasted at ten in a room hospitably put at our disposal, the
 windows of which admitted a delicious breeze and opened upon a
 magnificent view of the plain far below, where the distant city rested
-like a white mist--an impalpable thing. Brother José brought some
+like a white mist--an impalpable thing. Brother José brought some
 olives, to add to the refection which our sumpter-mule had carried to
 this height. They had a ripe, acid, oily flavor, which made one think of
 homely things and of patient housewives in remote American hills, who
@@ -2921,7 +2887,7 @@ absorbed Cordova the Old, so that not a vestige remains where compressed
 masses of human dwellings once stood. They are crumbled to an
 indistinguishable powder. That soft autumnal soil has swallowed up the
 bones of unnumbered generations, and no trace of them is left. We
-imagined the glittering legions of Cæsar as they moved slowly through
+imagined the glittering legions of Cæsar as they moved slowly through
 the country, flashing the sun from their compact steel, at that time
 when they put to the sword twenty-five thousand inhabitants of the city,
 which had sided with Pompey. We saw the Moors once more envelop it with
@@ -3033,7 +2999,7 @@ not easy to pronounce that we were of much more value than the hermits;
 and assuredly those earnest ascetics compared favorably with our
 mule-driver, who was remarkable only for an expression of incipient
 humor that was never able to attain the height of actual expression. I
-was sure that, as he sighed out his final "Arré" in this world, he would
+was sure that, as he sighed out his final "Arré" in this world, he would
 pass into the next with that vacant smile on his face, and the joke
 which he might have perpetrated under fortunate circumstances still
 unuttered. Nor did the average life of Cordova strike us as signally
@@ -3099,7 +3065,7 @@ I.
 Seville--why should we not keep the proper and more euphonious form,
 Sevilla?--the home of that Don Juan on whom Byron and Mozart have shed a
 lustre more enviable than his reputation, has been made familiar to
-every one by melodious Figaro as well; and more lately Mérimée's Carmen,
+every one by melodious Figaro as well; and more lately Mérimée's Carmen,
 veiled in the music of Bizet, has brought it into the foreign
 consciousness again.
 
@@ -3123,7 +3089,7 @@ copper, gold, lead, which have yielded steady tribute for thousands of
 years. In its breadths of sun-bathed plain and orange-mantled slope the
 ancients placed their Elysian Fields. Goth and Roman, Moor and Spaniard,
 struggled for the mastery of so rich a possession; and meanwhile
-Sevilla, the favorite of Cæsar--his "little Rome"--lay at the core of
+Sevilla, the favorite of Cæsar--his "little Rome"--lay at the core of
 the fruitful land, herself careless in the main as to everything except
 an easy life, with plenty of singing and love-making. From climate and
 history, nevertheless, from art and the mingling of antipodal races,
@@ -3252,7 +3218,7 @@ The coolness of the lofty and umbrageous aisles within is not penetrated
 by the fiercest summer heats; but their religious twilight, though
 inciting to a devout and prayerful sentiment, wraps in obscurity the
 crowded works of art, the emblazoned _retablos_, the paintings of
-Murillo, Campaña, and Morales, and the costly ornaments bestowed upon
+Murillo, Campaña, and Morales, and the costly ornaments bestowed upon
 the high altar, as well as those of some thirty side-chapels. In the
 central nave, before a shrine at the choir-back, lies the tomb of
 Ferdinand, son of Christopher Columbus. The colossal form of another
@@ -3309,7 +3275,7 @@ Maria--profanely called The Fat One--is the largest: such is the battery
 at command. They are not all used at once, however, for the Angelus. The
 ringer and his two sons were satisfied with touching up Santa Catalina
 (of a tone peculiarly deep and acceptable), St. John the Baptist, San
-José, and one or two others. The whole brazen family have been duly
+José, and one or two others. The whole brazen family have been duly
 baptized, among them being San Laureano and San Isidoro, named after the
 special patrons of Sevilla. One after another their tongues rolled forth
 a deafening roar, in a systematic disorder of thunderous tones, while
@@ -3365,7 +3331,7 @@ fourteenth century, was a monarch of a severely playful disposition. He
 used to have the heads of people that were obnoxious to him cut off, and
 hung up over the lintel of his dressing-room door, where he could look
 at them while he was putting in his shirt-studs, or whenever he felt
-bored. In the extensive gardens, half Eastern and half mediæval, behind
+bored. In the extensive gardens, half Eastern and half mediæval, behind
 the palace, among the box and myrtle planted in forms of heraldic
 devices, among the palms and terraces and fountains, there run long
 paths, secretly perforated in places for fine jets of water. These are
@@ -3442,7 +3408,7 @@ magnificence in treatment, is on the whole depressing.
 The House of Pilate, owned by the Duke of Medina Celi, is quite another
 sort of thing from San Telmo; a roomy, irregular edifice, dating from
 the sixteenth century, but almost wholly Saracenic. The walls are
-_repoussés_ in fine arabesques, and sheathed at the base with old
+_repoussés_ in fine arabesques, and sheathed at the base with old
 color-veined tiles that throw back the light in flashes from their
 surface. These also enamel the grand staircase, which makes a square
 turn beneath a roof described as a _media naranja_--natural Spanish
@@ -3475,7 +3441,7 @@ being taken for the theme. At least one hundred girls fixed their
 attention on us, delivering a volley of salutations, jokes, and general
 remarks.
 
-"What do you seek, little señor? You will get no _papelitos_ here!"
+"What do you seek, little señor? You will get no _papelitos_ here!"
 exclaimed one, pretty enough to venture on sauciness.
 
 "French, French! don't you see?" another said; and her companions, in
@@ -3516,7 +3482,7 @@ tables distributed through a heavily groined stone hall choked with
 thick pillars, and some six hundred or seven hundred yards in length.
 Others, on the contrary, looked blooming and coquettish. Many were in
 startling deshabille, resorted to on account of the intense July heat,
-and hastened to draw pretty _pañuelos_ of variegated dye over their bare
+and hastened to draw pretty _pañuelos_ of variegated dye over their bare
 shoulders when they saw us coming. Here, too, there was a large nursery
 business being carried on, with a very damaged article of child, smeary,
 sprawling, and crying. Nor was it altogether cheering to observe now and
@@ -3528,7 +3494,7 @@ it was not because there was any lack of shrines in the factory. They
 were erected here and there against the wall, with gilt images and
 candles arrayed in front of a white sheet, and occasionally the older
 women knelt at their devotions before them. I don't object to the
-shrines, but it struck me that a good _crèche_ system for the children
+shrines, but it struck me that a good _crèche_ system for the children
 might not come amiss.
 
 As to the factory-girls smoking cigarettes in public, it is an operatic
@@ -3550,12 +3516,12 @@ windows. The _reja_, the domestic gittern, is very common in Sevilla.
 The betrothed suitor, if he is quite correct, must hold his tender
 interviews with his mistress through its forbidding bars. My companion
 actually saw a handsome young fellow standing on the sidewalk, and
-conducting one of these peculiar _tête-à-têtes_.
+conducting one of these peculiar _tête-à-têtes_.
 
 [Illustration: "Stone walls do not a prison make, Nor iron bars a
 cage."]
 
-Every house is, furthermore, provided with a _patio_. The façades, as a
+Every house is, furthermore, provided with a _patio_. The façades, as a
 rule, are monotonous and unspeakably plain, but the poorest dwelling
 always has its airy court set with shrubs, and perhaps provided with
 water. They are tiled, as most rooms are in Spain--a good precaution
@@ -3628,7 +3594,7 @@ narrow windings! Once astray in them, that would be the easiest way out.
 Shall we go to the Thursday-morning fair, which begins, in order to
 avoid the great heats, at 6 A.M.? Come, then; and if we are up early, we
 may pass on the way through the low-walled market, gay with fruits,
-flowers, vegetables, where bread from Alcalá in the exact pattern of
+flowers, vegetables, where bread from Alcalá in the exact pattern of
 buttercup blossoms is sold, and where, at a particularly bloody and
 ferocious stall, butchers are dispensing the meat of bulls slaughtered
 at the fights. The fair is held in Fair Street. A frantic miscellany of
@@ -3669,7 +3635,7 @@ struck."
 This is the weird tune to which he chants it:
 
 [Illustration: Musical notation: _A--ve Ma--ri--a pur--is--si--ma! Las
-tré--es han toc--ca--do._]
+tré--es han toc--ca--do._]
 
 
 II.
@@ -3687,7 +3653,7 @@ imagination, of these Southerners. Their imagination will explain also
 the vogue of their brief, sometimes pathetic, yet never more than
 half-expressed, scraps of song, which are sung with so much feeling
 throughout the kingdom to crude barbaric airs, and loved alike by gentle
-and simple. I mean the _Peteneras_ and _Malagueñas_. There are others of
+and simple. I mean the _Peteneras_ and _Malagueñas_. There are others of
 the same general kind, sung to a variety of dances; but the ruling tunes
 are alike--usually pitched in a minor key, and interspersed with
 passionate trills, long quavers, unexpected ups and downs, which it
@@ -3764,7 +3730,7 @@ inconsequence of our negro improvisations:
 There was one evening in Granada when we sat in a company of some two
 dozen people, and one after another of the ladies took her turn in
 singing to the guitar of a little girl, a musical prodigy. But they were
-all outdone by Cándida, the brisk, naïve, handsome serving-girl, who was
+all outdone by Cándida, the brisk, naïve, handsome serving-girl, who was
 invited in, but preferred to stand outside the grated window, near the
 lemon-trees and pomegranates, looking in, with a flower in her hair, and
 pouring into the room her warm contralto--that voice so common among
@@ -3829,7 +3795,7 @@ small Moorish watch-towers rising like chessmen on the highest crests.
 The olive-trees spread on wide slopes of tanned earth were like thick
 dots of black connected in one design, and seemed to suggest the
 possible origin of Spanish lace. The shapes of the mountains, too, were
-extravagant. One of the most singular, the _Peñon de los Enamorados_,
+extravagant. One of the most singular, the _Peñon de los Enamorados_,
 near Antequera, showed us by accident at a distance the exact profile of
 George Washington, with every detail after Stuart, hewn out in mountain
 size and looking directly up into the heavens from a position of supine
@@ -3858,7 +3824,7 @@ felt their breath in a sweet coolness that drifted by from time to time.
 The other mountains were bare and golden brown. But in their midst the
 mild Vega, inlaid with curves of the River Genil, receded in breadths of
 alternate green orchard and mellow rye, where distant villages are
-scattered "like white antelopes at pasture," says Señor Don Contreras,
+scattered "like white antelopes at pasture," says Señor Don Contreras,
 the accomplished curator of the Alhambra. It was not like a dream, for
 dreams are imitative; nor like reality, for that is too unstable. It was
 blended of both these, with a purely ideal strand. As I looked at the
@@ -3896,10 +3862,10 @@ brick with enamellings on argil, into the open gravelled Place of the
 Reservoirs. This is undermined by a fettered lake, generally attributed
 to the Moors, but more probably made after Isabella's conquest. On the
 right side, behind hedges and low trees, is reared that gray rectangular
-Græco-Roman pile which Charles V. had the audacity to begin. His palace
+Græco-Roman pile which Charles V. had the audacity to begin. His palace
 is deservedly unfinished, yet its intrusion is effective. It makes you
 think of the terror-striking helmet of unearthly size in the Castle of
-Otranto, and looks indeed like a piece of mediæval armor flung down here
+Otranto, and looks indeed like a piece of mediæval armor flung down here
 to challenge vainly the wise Arabian beauty of the older edifice. To the
 Place of Reservoirs come in uninterrupted course all day the tinkling
 and tasselled mules that carry back to the city jars of fresh water,
@@ -4056,10 +4022,10 @@ court, blooming with citrons and lemons, and bedded with violets. That
 small garden, green and laughing, and interspersed with dark
 flower-mould, lies clasped in the branching wings of masonry, as simple
 and refreshing as a dew-drop. It is shut in on the other side by some
-mediæval rooms fitted up in heavy oak panelling for Philip V. and his
+mediæval rooms fitted up in heavy oak panelling for Philip V. and his
 second bride, Elisabetta, when with rare judgment they chose this
 Islamitic spot for their honey-moon--a crescent, I suppose. It was in
-one of these rooms--the Room of the Fruits--that, to quote Señor
+one of these rooms--the Room of the Fruits--that, to quote Señor
 Contreras again, "the celebrated poet Washington Irving harbored,
 composing there his best works." From which it will be inferred that the
 gallant Spaniard has not probed deeply the "Knickerbocker History of New
@@ -4131,7 +4097,7 @@ The sunlit and vine-clad decrepitude that sits so lightly on this magic
 stronghold--this "fortress and mansion of joy," as one of the mural
 mottoes calls it--is among its main charms. The most bitter opponent of
 any Moorish return to power in Granada would, I think, be the modern
-æsthetic tourist. I rambled frequently close under the old
+æsthetic tourist. I rambled frequently close under the old
 rufous-mottled walls, from which young trees sprout up lustily, and
 enjoyed their decay almost as much as I did the palace. At one point
 near the Tower of Seven Stories (which has never quite recovered from
@@ -4150,7 +4116,7 @@ white-hot light sifted through the leaves. But at night everything died
 away except the rush of water, which grew louder and louder till it
 filled the whole air like a ghostly warning. I used to wake long after
 midnight, and hear nothing but this chilling whisper, unless by chance
-some gypsies squatted on the road were singing _Malagueñas_, or the
+some gypsies squatted on the road were singing _Malagueñas_, or the
 strange, piercing note of the tree-toad that haunts the hill rung out in
 elfin and inhuman pipings of woe. For the builders who laid them here
 these running streams make a fit memorial--unstable as their power that
@@ -4318,7 +4284,7 @@ theory would avail to restore their interest. Yet some of the
 fortune-telling women are spirited enough, and the inextinguishable
 Romany spark smoulders in their black eyes. Perhaps it was an
 interloping drop of Celtic blood that made one of them say to me,
-"Señorito, listen. I will tell you your fortune. But I speak French--_I
+"Señorito, listen. I will tell you your fortune. But I speak French--_I
 come from Africa!_" And to clinch the matter she added, "You needn't pay
 me if every word of the prediction isn't true!" Much as I had heard of
 the Spanish bull, I never knew until then how closely it resembled the
@@ -4351,7 +4317,7 @@ of living reality. Even the tedious bustle of a Spanish town, too, has
 its attractions. The moving figures on the steep Albaycin streets, that
 perpetually break into flights of steps; the blocks of pressed snow
 brought in mule panniers every night from the Sierra to cool sugar-water
-and risadas of orange at the cafés; peasants coming in to the beautiful
+and risadas of orange at the cafés; peasants coming in to the beautiful
 old grain market with gaudy mantles over their shoulders, stuffing into
 their sashes a variety of purchases, and becoming corpulent with a day's
 transactions; the patient efforts of shop-keepers to water the main
@@ -4392,7 +4358,7 @@ _flamenco_--that dance of the gypsies, in its way as peculiarly Spanish
 as the church and the bull-ring, and hardly less important--is of
 Oriental origin, and preserves the impassive quality, the suppressed,
 tantalized sensuousness belonging to Eastern performances in the
-saltatory line. It forms a popular entertainment in cafés of the lower
+saltatory line. It forms a popular entertainment in cafés of the lower
 order throughout the southern provinces, from Madrid all the way around
 to Valencia, in Sevilla and Malaga, and is gotten up as a select and
 expensive treat for travellers at Granada. But we saw it at its best in
@@ -4435,7 +4401,7 @@ most important personage on the platform, but he does not pretend to
 contribute to the programme beyond an exclamation of encouragement to
 the performers at intervals. He is a Turveydrop in deportment at
 moments, and always a Crummles in self-esteem. A few highly favored
-individuals as they come into the café salute him, and receive a
+individuals as they come into the café salute him, and receive a
 condescending nod in return. Then some friend in the audience sends up
 to him a glass of chamomile wine, or comes close and offers it with his
 own hand. The leader invariably makes excuses, and without exception
@@ -4454,7 +4420,7 @@ melancholy strain. Two or three women chant a weird song, and all clap
 their hands in a peculiar measure, now louder, now fainter, and with
 pauses of varying length between the emphatic reports. The dancer has
 not yet risen from her seat; she seems to demand encouragement. The
-others call out, "Ollé!"--a gypsy word for "bravo!"--and smile and nod
+others call out, "Ollé!"--a gypsy word for "bravo!"--and smile and nod
 their heads at her to draw her on. All this excites in you a livelier
 curiosity, a sort of suspense. "What can be coming now?" you ask.
 Finally she gets up, smiling half scornfully; a light comes into her
@@ -4492,7 +4458,7 @@ follow like pistol reports. The regular _clack_, _clack-clack_ of the
 smitten hands goes on about her, and the cries of the rest increase in
 zest and loudness.
 
-"Ollé! ollé!"
+"Ollé! ollé!"
 
 "Bravo, my gracious one!"
 
@@ -4644,7 +4610,7 @@ seemed to be particularly well patronized. The streets, almost forsaken
 by day, were crowded after nightfall. The shops were open late. By eight
 or nine o'clock life began.
 
-The Café de la Loba (the Wolf)--an immense building, where there is a
+The Café de la Loba (the Wolf)--an immense building, where there is a
 court entirely roofed over by a single grape-vine, spreading from a stem
 fifteen inches in diameter, and rivalling the famous vines of Hampton
 Court and Windsor--was well filled, and in many small _tiendas de vino_
@@ -4654,7 +4620,7 @@ heating to be taken in such a climate, as we were able to convince
 ourselves on tasting some fine vintages at one of the _bodegas_ the next
 day. Nevertheless, the lower class of the inhabitants find no difficulty
 in attaining to a maximum of drunkenness on milder beverages. Even the
-respectable idlers in the café under our hotel drank a great deal too
+respectable idlers in the café under our hotel drank a great deal too
 much beer, if I may judge from their prolonging their obstreperous
 discussion of politics into the small hours, while we lay feverish in a
 room above listening to their voices, blended with the whistle of a
@@ -4755,7 +4721,7 @@ white--a pale golden dome above us, and a delicious wind playing round
 us, like the exhalation of some balmy sub-tropical dream. On these coast
 steamers one buys a ticket for the transport, and then pays for what he
 eats. This rule reduced the company at our deck table to a choice and
-pleasant circle, the head of which was Señor Segovia, one of the owners
+pleasant circle, the head of which was Señor Segovia, one of the owners
 of the line, a benignant, comfortable Spaniard--"an Andalusian to the
 core," as he proudly said. We had, as usual, early chocolate at six or
 seven; breakfast not so near eleven as to admit any suspicion of
@@ -4803,7 +4769,7 @@ Frenchman, who, with a morbid conscientiousness as to what was fitting,
 insisted on being sea-sick, although the sea was hardly ruffled; and him
 we succeeded in resuscitating, after the boat had come quietly to anchor
 in the harbor, so far that he began to long audibly for Paris and the
-café on the boulevard, "_et mon absinthe_." We watched with these
+café on the boulevard, "_et mon absinthe_." We watched with these
 companions the naked boys who surrounded the vessel in a flotilla of
 row-boats, offering to dive for coppers thrown into the water, precisely
 as I have seen young Mexican Indians do at Acapulco. Near by lay another
@@ -4813,7 +4779,7 @@ sight as they dropped silently into the barges that bore them to
 shore--some utterly destitute, with only the clothes in which they had
 fled before the fanatic murderers, and others accompanied by a few
 meagre household goods. Did they feel that "irremediable nostalgia," I
-wonder, of which Señor Castelar speaks? The sun was as hot as that which
+wonder, of which Señor Castelar speaks? The sun was as hot as that which
 had shone upon them just across the strait, on the edge of the Dark
 Continent; and the low-roofed glaring houses huddled at the feet of the
 Moorish stronghold, the Alcasaba, were so Oriental that I should think
@@ -5016,14 +4982,14 @@ courtesy. For instance, I would call the waiter.
 When he came with it I tried to rise to his standard by saying,
 "Thanks--a thousand thanks."
 
-"They do not merit themselves, señor," said he, not to be outdone.
+"They do not merit themselves, señor," said he, not to be outdone.
 
 I asked if I could have a _garspacho_ for breakfast. The _garspacho_ is
 an Andalusian soup-salad, very cooling, made of stewed and strained
 tomato, water, vinegar, sliced cucumber, boiled green peppers, a dash of
 garlic, and some bits of bread; the whole served frost-cold.
 
-"I don't know--it is not in the list. I feel it, señor. It weighs upon
+"I don't know--it is not in the list. I feel it, señor. It weighs upon
 my soul. But I will see, and will return in an Ave Maria to let you
 know."
 
@@ -5112,7 +5078,7 @@ it was now broad daylight, I began to look out of the window, and soon
 had cause to consider the peasant a benefactor; for we were just leaving
 Jativa, a most picturesque old town, with a castle famous even in Roman
 times; the native place, also, of the Borgias (Pope Calixtus III., and
-Rodrigro, the father of Cæsar Borgia). Immediately afterward we entered
+Rodrigro, the father of Cæsar Borgia). Immediately afterward we entered
 the garden region. Miles of carefully-tended growth, thousands of
 orchards linked together in one series, acres upon acres of fields where
 every square inch is made to yield abundantly--such is the Huerta of
@@ -5212,9 +5178,9 @@ One may go quite freely to the port, however--the Grao--which is two
 miles distant. A broad boulevard hedged with sycamores leads thither,
 which in summer is crowded by _tartanas_--bouncing little covered wagons
 lined with crimson curtains, and usually carrying a load of pretty
-señoritas--and by more imposing equipages adorned with footmen in the
+señoritas--and by more imposing equipages adorned with footmen in the
 English style. Everybody goes to the shore to bathe toward evening, for
-Valencia is the Brighton of the Madrileños. The little bathing
+Valencia is the Brighton of the Madrileños. The little bathing
 establishments extend for a long distance on the sands, and are very
 neat. Each has its fanciful name, as "The Pearl," or "The Madrid Girl,"
 and the proprietors stand in front vociferously soliciting your custom.
@@ -5273,7 +5239,7 @@ kingdom, and you find it the boast of the citizens that they are not
 Spaniards. They are Spanish mainly in their love of revolt. So prompt
 are they to join in every uprising, that the garrison quartered there
 has to be kept as high as ten thousand men; but for the most part it is
-rather a French maritime dépot than a thing of ancient or peculiar
+rather a French maritime dépot than a thing of ancient or peculiar
 Spain. There is a large and artificial park on one side, and the fort
 of Monjuich on the other, and a lot of shipping in the harbor; and a
 glorious embowered avenue, called the Rambla, where pale-faced,
@@ -5310,19 +5276,19 @@ heraldry steal gradually upon the eye, as if through the obscuring night
 of time. I found the ancient cloister, without, on the south-west side,
 a delightful, shadowy, suggestive place: there, too, may be seen a
 fountain surmounted by a small equestrian statue of St. George, which
-reminds one of a fabulous story in Münchausen; for the tail of the horse
+reminds one of a fabulous story in Münchausen; for the tail of the horse
 is formed by a jet of water flowing out of the body at the rear. Inside
 the church again hangs, under the organ-loft, an enormous wooden and
 painted Saracen's head--a species of relic not uncommon, I believe, in
 Catalonian temples. It may be added here that the custom of the
 "historical giants" at Corpus Christi is maintained in Barcelona as we
 had seen it at Burgos, and those effigies are stowed away somewhere in
-the sacred precincts. There is a curious mingling of the naïve and the
+the sacred precincts. There is a curious mingling of the naïve and the
 sophisticated in the fact that some of the giants, wearing female
 attire, have new dresses for each year, and thereby set the fashions for
 the ensuing twelvemonth for all the womankind of the city. And however
 advanced the urban society may be, with its trade, its opera, its books,
-gilded cafés and superb clubs, the spirit of progress does not spread
+gilded cafés and superb clubs, the spirit of progress does not spread
 very far into the country. When a piece of railroad was built, not very
 long ago, opening up a new rural section in the neighborhood, the
 peasants watched the advance of the locomotive along the rails with
@@ -5360,7 +5326,7 @@ instead of a plain, business-like little instrument.
 
 With its usual fatuity the railroad obliged us to start so early that
 at the first dusky gray streak of dawn we were dismally taking our
-coffee in the _patio_ of the hotel. The _dueño_ was sleeping by sections
+coffee in the _patio_ of the hotel. The _dueño_ was sleeping by sections
 on two hard chairs, considerately screened from us by a clump of orange
 shrubs, and murmuring now and then some direction to the half-invisible
 waiter floating about in a dark arcade; but he roused himself, and woke
@@ -5371,7 +5337,7 @@ facts of to-day, in such a country, the moment human activity is
 suspended or the reality of the present is at all dimmed. Silence here
 leads at once to retrospection; differing in this from the mute solitude
 of American places, which somehow always tingles with anticipation. And
-the _dueño_, in overcharging us, became only the type of a long line of
+the _dueño_, in overcharging us, became only the type of a long line of
 historic plunderers that have infested the Peninsula from the date of
 the Roman rule down to the incursion of Napoleon and the most recent
 period. His little game was invested with all the dignity of history and
@@ -5385,7 +5351,7 @@ And yet, at the instant of leaving, we discovered that it was indeed
 Spain, and a pang of regret followed those words.
 
 As we issued from the hotel we saw, crossing the street in the increased
-dawn-light, and striding toward the dépot, the two Civil Guards. It
+dawn-light, and striding toward the dépot, the two Civil Guards. It
 looked as if we should be captured on the very threshold of liberty. The
 thought lent wings to our haste.... Some hours afterward, when we were
 passing through the tunnels of the Pyrenees, we congratulated ourselves
@@ -5452,7 +5418,7 @@ digestion which finds itself annoyed by a peculiar cookery; and no
 amount of irritation will suffice to make Spanish officials and keepers
 of hostelries one whit more obliging than they are at present--their
 regard for the convenience of the public being just about equal to that
-of the average American hotel clerk or railroad employé.
+of the average American hotel clerk or railroad employé.
 
 _Passports_.--Next to patience may be placed a passport; though it
 differs from the former article in being of no particular use. I observe
@@ -5581,7 +5547,7 @@ take in succession all the cities and towns which it is worth while to
 visit. A ticket of this kind costs only about ninety dollars, whereas
 the usual fare from Paris to Madrid alone is nearly or quite forty
 dollars. The _billets circulaires_ may be obtained at a certain central
-ticket-office in the Rue St. Honoré, at Paris, to which the inquirer at
+ticket-office in the Rue St. Honoré, at Paris, to which the inquirer at
 either of the great Southern railroads--that is, the Paris-Lyons and the
 Orleans lines--will be directed. The list of places at which one is
 permitted to stop, on this round-trip system, is very extensive, and a
@@ -5738,7 +5704,7 @@ we sustained no loss.
 
 _Language_.--One cannot travel to the best advantage in Spain without
 having at least a moderate knowledge of French; or, still better, of
-Spanish. Railroad employés, customs officers, guards, and inn-keepers
+Spanish. Railroad employés, customs officers, guards, and inn-keepers
 there, as a rule, understand only their native tongue. Now and then one
 will be found who has command of a very few French words; but this is
 quite the exception, and even when it occurs, is not of much use. At the
@@ -5779,7 +5745,7 @@ disfavored person. But, on the other hand, polite attentions of this
 kind are often enough met by a lethargic dignity and inertia that are
 far from gratifying. Under such circumstances, let the tourist remember
 and apply that prerequisite which I began with mentioning--good-humored
-patience. I found my companions by the rail or at _tables d'hóte_
+patience. I found my companions by the rail or at _tables d'hóte_
 sometimes considerate and agreeable, at others quite the reverse, and
 disposed to ignore the existence of foreigners as something beneath
 notice. I remember once, when Velveteen and I, obliged to change cars,
@@ -5862,7 +5828,7 @@ very best rooms are supplied. The foreigner, of course, pays a good deal
 more than the native, but it is impossible for him to avoid that.
 Sometimes coffee after dinner is included in this price, but coffee
 after the mid-day breakfast is charged as an extra; and so are all wines
-except the ordinary red or white Val de Peñas, which are supplied with
+except the ordinary red or white Val de Peñas, which are supplied with
 both meals. Nothing is furnished before the breakfast hour excepting a
 cup of chocolate, some bread, and, possibly, butter. One should always
 see his rooms before engaging them, and also be particular to ask
@@ -5949,14 +5915,14 @@ promptness and safety, it appears; although at Malaga I observed a large
 padlocked and green-painted chest with a narrow aperture in it, lying on
 the sidewalk in no particular custody, and learned that it was a
 convenient movable post-office. Furthermore, it is bewildering to find,
-after painfully travelling to the genuine post-office (the _Corréo_),
+after painfully travelling to the genuine post-office (the _Corréo_),
 that you cannot buy any stamps there. These are kept on sale only at the
 shops of tobacconists, whose trade likewise makes them agents of the
 governmental monopoly in cigars, cigarettes, etc. The tobacconists'
 stores bear the sign _Estanco_ (stamp-shop); and, after one is
 accustomed to the plan, it becomes really more convenient to obtain
 one's postage from them. To weigh large envelopes or packages, however,
-the sender must resort to the _Corréo_. International postal cards may
+the sender must resort to the _Corréo_. International postal cards may
 be had, which are good between Spain and France, and other rates are not
 high. Those who intend to pass rapidly from point to point will do well
 to have all correspondence directed to the care of the American consul
@@ -5990,7 +5956,7 @@ at the very start, in America, London, or Paris: ten to one you will
 not find them in Spain. It is pleasant, for example, to refer on the
 spot to an English version of "Don Quixote," or the French "Gil Blas;"
 or Prescott's "Ferdinand and Isabella," and the "Columbus," the
-"Conquest of Granada," and "Tales of the Alhambra," by Irving. Théophile
+"Conquest of Granada," and "Tales of the Alhambra," by Irving. Théophile
 Gautier's "Voyage en Espagne" is another very delightful hand-mirror in
 which to see your own observations reflected. But none of these are
 obtainable except, possibly, in Madrid and Barcelona; and even there it
@@ -6040,7 +6006,7 @@ more or less Napoleons with you, because French gold is trusted, and
 passes with slight discount. The traveller should be provided with both
 kinds. Always and persistently refuse Spanish paper.
 
-_Buying Bric-à-brac, Lace, etc_.--Those who wish to purchase
+_Buying Bric-à-brac, Lace, etc_.--Those who wish to purchase
 characteristic products of the country, ancient or modern, need not fear
 that opportunity will be wanting; but the most obvious means are not
 always the best. The interpreters or guides attached to hotels are in
@@ -6065,7 +6031,7 @@ assistance of some personal acquaintance among the Spaniards themselves,
 if it can be had, will always effect a considerable saving; and, when
 time can be allowed, the best way always is to make inquiry and prowl
 around among the stores for one's self. There are few professed
-antiquarian and bric-à-brac salesrooms out of Madrid; but one can often
+antiquarian and bric-à-brac salesrooms out of Madrid; but one can often
 pick up what he wants in out-of-the-way places. Perhaps the best towns
 in which to buy the peculiar gay-colored and ball-fringed _mantas_, or
 mantles of the country, and the equally curious _alforjas_ used by the
@@ -6109,7 +6075,7 @@ are sparsely imported into the United States--offers larger prizes to
 those who search and pay. Many relics of ancient costume, dating from
 the period of courtly splendor; rich fabrics; embroideries; sacerdotal
 robes and disused altar-cloths; and occasional precious metal-work, may
-farther be unearthed in the bric-à-brac shops. With due care such
+farther be unearthed in the bric-à-brac shops. With due care such
 objects will often be obtained at moderate cost. But it is to be
 remembered that the price paid on the spot forms only one item.
 Transportation to the final shipping-point and the ocean freightage are
@@ -6211,7 +6177,7 @@ Again, on the railroads, many journeys have to be made at night; and it
 is seldom that one can secure a sleeping-coach. On much-travelled lines
 these are usually bespoken a week in advance. Failing to get the
 _wagon-lit_, as the sleeping-car is called, after the French fashion,
-one may sometimes engage a _berlina_, which is simply the _coupé_ or end
+one may sometimes engage a _berlina_, which is simply the _coupé_ or end
 compartment of a car. This, being made to seat three persons instead of
 six, is allowed to be reserved. It costs about two dollars for a
 distance of one hundred miles.
@@ -6257,7 +6223,7 @@ Madrid                                       8
   Or, from Avila go direct to Madrid, and
     then to Escorial, Segovia, and return.
 
-Alcalá de Henáres (birthplace of Cervantes)
+Alcalá de Henáres (birthplace of Cervantes)
   may be reached by a short railtrip from
   Madrid eastward                            1
 
@@ -6425,7 +6391,7 @@ and even Barcelona--far north though the last-mentioned is--all offer
 extraordinary advantages of climate to the average run of patients
 afflicted with chronic chest disease, pulmonary consumption, chronic
 bronchitis, bronchitic asthma, chronic diseases of the kidney, debility
-and anæmia from any cause, and the failing vitality of old age. Cadiz,
+and anæmia from any cause, and the failing vitality of old age. Cadiz,
 too, possesses a most equable temperature. It is noted, however, by the
 writer whom I follow, that the dry air of these places is injurious in
 those exceptional cases of chest disease, of nervous asthma and
@@ -6544,7 +6510,7 @@ Set to Music by various Composers. Edited by W. G. CUSINS. With
 Portrait and Illustrations. Royal 4to, Cloth, Gilt Edges, $5 00.
 
 The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.
-By SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE. Illustrated by GUSTAVE DORÉ.
+By SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE. Illustrated by GUSTAVE DORÉ.
 Folio, Cloth, Gilt Edges, $10 00. (_In a Box_.)
 
        *       *       *       *       *
@@ -6623,365 +6589,4 @@ has been inferred that the first of them came from the Netherlands.
 
 End of Project Gutenberg's Spanish Vistas, by George Parsons Lathrop
 
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+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40528 ***
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@@ -3,7 +3,7 @@
 
 <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en" xml:lang="en">
   <head>  <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" />
-<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" />
 <title>
   The Project Gutenberg eBook of Spanish Vistas, by George Parsons Lathrop.
 </title>
@@ -92,45 +92,7 @@ margin-top:-4em;margin-right:1em;padding:0;text-align:center;}
 </style>
   </head>
 <body>
-
-
-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Spanish Vistas, by George Parsons Lathrop
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Spanish Vistas
-
-Author: George Parsons Lathrop
-
-Illustrator: Charles S. Reinhart
-
-Release Date: August 18, 2012 [EBook #40528]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPANISH VISTAS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
-
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-
-
-
-
-</pre>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40528 ***</div>
 
 <hr class="full" />
 
@@ -416,7 +378,7 @@ form.</p>
 
 <tr><td><span class="smcap">Travellers to Cordova</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr>
 
-<tr><td><span class="smcap">"Arré, Burr-r-rico!"</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap">"Arré, Burr-r-rico!"</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr>
 
 <tr><td><span class="smcap">The Fruit of the Desierta</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_094">94</a></td></tr>
 
@@ -526,7 +488,7 @@ a dimly moonlit space beyond.
 Muffled figures occasionally pass
 the aperture.</p>
 
-<p>Suddenly enters Don Ramiro&mdash;or Alvar Nuñez, I really don't know
+<p>Suddenly enters Don Ramiro&mdash;or Alvar Nuñez, I really don't know
 which&mdash;and advances toward the front. To our surprise he does not
 open the play with a set speech or any explanation, but continues to
 advance until he disappears somewhere under our private box, as if he
@@ -548,7 +510,7 @@ of amusement caused to certain wandering Spaniards by some convulsingly
 funny episode; and the next moment their party comes upon
 the scene at about the point where the foot-lights ought to be. They
 exchange a good-night; some go off, and others thunder at sundry
-doors with ancient knockers, awaking mediæval echoes in the dingy
+doors with ancient knockers, awaking mediæval echoes in the dingy
 thoroughfares, without causing any great surprise to the neighborhood.</p>
 
 <p class="figcenter">
@@ -563,7 +525,7 @@ which we had just arrived; but everything had grouped itself in such
 a way that it was hard to comprehend that we were not at the theatre.
 That day we had been hurled over the Pyrenees, and landed in the dark
 at our first Peninsular station; then, facing a crowd of fierce, uncouth
-faces at the depôt door, we had somehow got conveyed to the Inn of
+faces at the depôt door, we had somehow got conveyed to the Inn of
 the North through narrow, cavernous streets, brightened only by the
 feeble light of a few lost lanterns, and so found ourselves staring out
 upon our first picturesque night in Spain. The street or plazuela below
@@ -666,7 +628,7 @@ at the small street from which it should emerge, to behold eight
 huge figures, looking half as high as the houses, in long robes, and with
 placidly unreal expressions on their gigantic faces, advancing with that
 peculiar unconscious gait due to human leg-power when concealed under
-papier-maché monsters. It took but a glance, as they filed out and<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>
+papier-maché monsters. It took but a glance, as they filed out and<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>
 aligned themselves on the small sunny square, to recognize in them the
 Kings of the Earth, come in person to do homage before the Christ.
 One bore a crown and ermine as insignia of the Castilian line; others
@@ -719,8 +681,8 @@ shrunken river, with borders of chubby shade trees and shrubbery. On
 Corpus Christi the citizens also turned out in the arcades of the Main
 Plaza. Here, and later in the dusty dusk of The Spur, they crowded
 and chatted, in accordance with native ideas of enjoyment; and except
-that their mantillas and shoulder-veils<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> made a difference, the señoras
-and señoritas might have passed for Americans, so delicate were their
+that their mantillas and shoulder-veils<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> made a difference, the señoras
+and señoritas might have passed for Americans, so delicate were their
 features, so trim their daintily-attired figures, though perhaps they
 hadn't a coin in their pockets. The men had the universal Iberian
 habit of carrying their light overcoats folded over the left shoulder;
@@ -735,8 +697,8 @@ a stand-still&mdash;and to whisper complimentary speeches into their ears;
 no one, not even relatives of the damsels, resenting this freedom.</p>
 
 <p>At Las Huelgas, a famous convent near the town, much resorted
-to by nuns of aristocratic family (even the Empress Eugénie it was
-thought would retire thither after her son's death), the fête was renewed
+to by nuns of aristocratic family (even the Empress Eugénie it was
+thought would retire thither after her son's death), the fête was renewed
 next day; and it was here that we saw beggars in perfection.
 A huge stork's nest was perched high on one end of the chapel, as on
 many churches of Spain. Bombs were fired above the crowd from the
@@ -805,7 +767,7 @@ on the part of these people to think of manufacturing an article for
 which they have so little use. I am bound to add that I did not see
 an ounce of it sold; and I have my suspicions that the business is
 merely a traditional one&mdash;the same big cheese-like chunks being probably
-brought out at every fair and fête, as a time-honored symbol of
+brought out at every fair and fête, as a time-honored symbol of
 Castilian prosperity. But, after all, so devout a community must be
 convinced that it possesses godliness; and having that, what do they
 need of the proximate virtue? This is the region where the inhabitants
@@ -995,7 +957,7 @@ many others, on account of the growing prejudice against them, went
 about in frock-coats and ordinary tall hats. And under all its crowning
 beauty the old minster, motionless in the centre of the stagnant
 town&mdash;its chief entrance walled up, and a notice painted on its
-Late Roman façade warning boys not to play ball against the tempting
+Late Roman façade warning boys not to play ball against the tempting
 masonry&mdash;wore the look of some neglected and half-blind thing,<a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>
 once glorious, symbol of a power abruptly stayed in its prodigious
 career.</p>
@@ -1067,7 +1029,7 @@ were a good deal easier to shoot us than not, unless it was that we were
 too rich a "find" to be disposed of immediately&mdash;squandered, as it were?
 Perhaps the torture of suspense suited the enormity of our case, but it
 was certainly cruel. There was some satisfaction, however, in finding
-that when we left the depôt they allowed us a restricted liberty, and kept
+that when we left the depôt they allowed us a restricted liberty, and kept
 out of our way. If it had been otherwise, I don't know what they would
 have done to us at Burgos, for it was there that the landlady forced upon
 us a gold piece that would not pass, in exchange for a good one which
@@ -1099,7 +1061,7 @@ good English.</p>
 
 <p>The terrible truth was now clear. My eye caught, at the same
 instant, a card in the window which proved beyond question that we
-had got into the carriage for señoras.</p>
+had got into the carriage for señoras.</p>
 
 <p>The result of this adventure was that we found the nun to be an
 English Catholic, employed in teaching at a religious establishment,
@@ -1112,7 +1074,7 @@ us again on the platform. There indeed they were, when we
 tumbled out into the obscurity, with their white-hooded heads looming
 above their muskets in startling disconnectedness. Telling Velazquez,
 with all the firmness I possessed, to bare his breast to the avenging
-sword, I hastened to get into a coupé, preferring to die comfortably.
+sword, I hastened to get into a coupé, preferring to die comfortably.
 He, however, ignominiously followed me. It is true, we were not molested;
 but the shock of that narrow escape kept us wakeful.</p>
 
@@ -1133,19 +1095,19 @@ human product of such soil must perforce be meagre and melancholy;
 and the pensiveness which we see in most Spanish faces seems a reflection
 of the landscape which surrounds them.</p>
 
-<p>The Madrileños offer not a flat, but rather an extremely round
+<p>The Madrileños offer not a flat, but rather an extremely round
 contradiction to this general and accepted idea of the national appearance.
 Slenderness is the exception with them. Their city is a forced
 flower in the midst of mountain lands, and the men themselves rejoice
 in a rotund and puffy look of success, which also partakes of the hot-house
 character. They are people of leisure, and, after their manner,
-of pleasure. How they swarm in the cafés in the Gate of the Sun&mdash;where
+of pleasure. How they swarm in the cafés in the Gate of the Sun&mdash;where
 they keep up the Moorish custom of calling waiters by two
-claps of the hands&mdash;or on the one great thoroughfare, Calle de Alcalá,
+claps of the hands&mdash;or on the one great thoroughfare, Calle de Alcalá,
 or in the bull-ring of a Sunday! They are never at rest, yet never
 altogether active. They never sleep, or, if they do, others take their
 places in the public resorts. The clamor of the streets, and even the
-snarling cry of the news-venders&mdash;"<i>La Correspondencia</i>," or "<i>El Demó-crata-a</i>"&mdash;is
+snarling cry of the news-venders&mdash;"<i>La Correspondencia</i>," or "<i>El Demó-crata-a</i>"&mdash;is
 kept up until the small hours; and at five or six the restless
 stir begins again with the silver tinkling of fleet mule-bells. There
 are no night-howling watchmen in Madrid; but the custom of street-hawking
@@ -1183,7 +1145,7 @@ naturally does not see a great deal of these; and then it may be
 doubted whether they really exist to the same extent as in most other
 civilized capitals. It becomes wearisome to make sallies upon the
 town, and day after day find so much of the population trying to divert
-itself, or killing time in the cafés and clubs. The feeling deepens
+itself, or killing time in the cafés and clubs. The feeling deepens
 that they resort to these for want of a sufficiently close interest in
 their homes. More than that, they do not seem really to be amused.
 Even their language fails to express the amusement idea; the most
@@ -1192,7 +1154,7 @@ Still the choice of light diversion is varied enough. Opera flourishes
 in winter; in spring and summer the bull-fight; theatres are always
 in blast; cocking-mains are kept up. Hitherto gambling has been
 another favorite pastime until checked by the authorities. Not content
-with all this, the Madrileños seek in lottery shops that excitement
+with all this, the Madrileños seek in lottery shops that excitement
 which Americans derive from drinking-saloons. The brightly lighted
 lottery agency occurs as frequently as that other indication of disease,
 the apothecary's window, or the stock-market "ticker," in American
@@ -1230,8 +1192,8 @@ carved sticks known as <i>molinillos</i> (little mills), with which chocolate is
 mixed by a dexterous spinning motion. The donkey feels himself at
 home once more in these narrow thoroughfares; the evil sewage smell,
 which oozes through even the most pretentious edifices in the new
-quarters, diffuses itself again in full vigor, and the cafés become dingy
-and unconventional. On the Alcalá, or San Geronimo, the carefully-dressed
+quarters, diffuses itself again in full vigor, and the cafés become dingy
+and unconventional. On the Alcalá, or San Geronimo, the carefully-dressed
 men sip beer and cordials, or possibly indulge in sparkling
 sherry&mdash;a new and expensive wine like dry champagne; but here the
 rougher element is satisfied with <i>aguardiente</i> (the liquor distilled from
@@ -1290,7 +1252,7 @@ giving the saints and services of the day; besides which special masses
 for the souls of departed capitalists are constantly announced, with a
 request that friends shall attend. These paid rites doubtless offer a
 pleasant exception to the routine of commonplace church-going. Thus,
-while the men are absorbed by their cafés and politics, their countless
+while the men are absorbed by their cafés and politics, their countless
 cigarettes and lottery tickets, with a minimum of business and a maximum
 of dominoes, the women fill up their time with matins and vespers,<a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>
 confessions and intrigues. It would be merely repeating the frank
@@ -1323,7 +1285,7 @@ two or three state dinners, a year.</p>
 </p>
 
 <p>To be sure, no capital is better provided with sundry of the higher
-means to cultivation, as its Royal Armory, its Archæological Museum,
+means to cultivation, as its Royal Armory, its Archæological Museum,
 and its glorious Picture-gallery&mdash;in some respects the noblest of Europe&mdash;remind
 one. Moreover, in the neighboring Escorial, that dark
 jewel in the head of Philip II., travellers find a rich monument of art,
@@ -1350,13 +1312,13 @@ ladies of our varnished period concern themselves. The opera, the
 circus, and the <i>Corrida de Toros</i>&mdash;the irrepressible bull-fight&mdash;are to
 them of far more consequence.</p>
 
-<p>In every crowd and café you see the tall, shapely, dark-faced, silent
+<p>In every crowd and café you see the tall, shapely, dark-faced, silent
 men, with a cool, professionally murderous look like that of our border
 desperadoes, whose enormously wide black hats, short jackets, tight
 trousers, and pigtails of braided hair proclaim them <i>chulos</i>, or members
 of the noble ring. Intrepid, with muscles of steel, and finely formed,
 they are very illiterate: we saw one of them gently taking his brandy
-at the Café de Paris after a hard combat, while his friend read from an
+at the Café de Paris after a hard combat, while his friend read from an
 evening paper a report of the games in which he had just fought&mdash;the
 man's own education not enabling him to decipher print. But the higher
 class of these professionals are the idols, the demi-gods, of the people.
@@ -1755,7 +1717,7 @@ church of Santiago lower down, passing through some streets irregular
 as foot-paths, where over a neglected door stood a unique announcement
 of the owner's name&mdash;"I am Don Sanchez. 1792"&mdash;we came
 to the Visagra, the country gate. This menacing, double-towered portal
-is mediæval; so that a few steps had carried us from Mohammedan
+is mediæval; so that a few steps had carried us from Mohammedan
 Alimaymon to the Emperor Charles V. Just outside of it again is the
 Alameda, the modern garden promenade, where the beauty and idleness
 of Toledo congregate on Sunday evenings to the soft compulsion
@@ -1766,7 +1728,7 @@ into being; for on the slope, a few feet below the green hedges, you
 still see the sun-parched soil just as it once spread over the whole area.
 The contrast suggests Eden blossoming on a crater-side.</p>
 
-<p>At the open-air soirées of the Alameda may be seen excellent examples
+<p>At the open-air soirées of the Alameda may be seen excellent examples
 of Spanish beauty. The national type of woman appears here
 in good preservation, and not too much hampered by foreign airs.
 Doubtless one finds it too in Burgos and Madrid, and in fact everywhere;
@@ -2025,7 +1987,7 @@ was screened by a striped curtain. Pushing
 aside one of these, our new acquaintance introduced
 us to what seemed a dingy bar, but, by a
 series of turnings, opened out into a spacious concealed
-café&mdash;that of the Two Brothers&mdash;where we
+café&mdash;that of the Two Brothers&mdash;where we
 frequently repaired with him to sip chiccory and
 cognac or play dominos. On these occasions he kept the tally in pencil
 on the marble table, marking the side of himself and a friend with their
@@ -2313,7 +2275,7 @@ process.</p>
 fresh animal health, which makes you wonder how they ever grow old,
 until you see some tottering creature who is little more than a mass of
 sinews and wrinkles held together by a skirt and a neckerchief&mdash;the
-<i>pañuclo</i> universal with her sex. At noon and evening the serving-women
+<i>pañuclo</i> universal with her sex. At noon and evening the serving-women
 came out to the fountains, distributed here and there under
 groups of miniature locust-trees, to fetch water for their houses. They
 carried huge earthen jars, or <i>cantarones</i>, which they would lug off easily
@@ -2340,7 +2302,7 @@ jumble of palaces once thronged with powerful courtiers and abundant
 in wealth, but at this day chiefly inhabited by persons of humble
 quality. Nightly there glows in
 the second story of a building
-on the Zocodover, where <i>autos-da-fé</i>
+on the Zocodover, where <i>autos-da-fé</i>
 used to be held, a large
 arched shrine of the Virgin hung
 with mellow lamps, so that not
@@ -2517,7 +2479,7 @@ explorers, and the cavern was again closed, remaining even yet a reservoir
 of mystery. There are equally mysterious things above ground,
 however, as will shortly be demonstrated by the tale of the "Christ of
 Compassion." Let me, before giving that, recall here a more poetic
-tradition, preserved by Señor Eugenio Olavarria, a young author of
+tradition, preserved by Señor Eugenio Olavarria, a young author of
 Madrid. We saw just outside the mosque-church of the Christ of
 Light an old Moorish well, of a kind common in Spain, with a low
 thick wall surrounding the deep sunken shaft, to rest the bucket-chain
@@ -2624,8 +2586,8 @@ assassins. Don Lope rushed forward in pursuit, and in his rage hacked
 the stones with his sword as if to cut his way through. The marks<a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>
 made in the stone by his weapon are still to be seen there." The compassionate
 face still looks down from the shrine, and little sign-boards
-announce indulgences to those who pray there: "Señor Don Luis
-Maria de Borbon, most Illustrious Señor Bishop of Carista, grants forty
+announce indulgences to those who pray there: "Señor Don Luis
+Maria de Borbon, most Illustrious Señor Bishop of Carista, grants forty
 days' indulgence to all who with grief for their sins say, 'Lord have
 mercy on me!' or make the acts of Faith, Charity, and Hope before this
 image, praying for the necessities of the Church."</p>
@@ -2801,7 +2763,7 @@ advantages and their drawbacks. At Castillejo, a junction on the way to
 Cordova, we had to wait four hours in the evening
 at a distance of twenty miles from the nearest restaurant.
 The country around was absolutely desolate
-except for tufts of the <i>retamé</i>&mdash;a sort of broom
+except for tufts of the <i>retamé</i>&mdash;a sort of broom
 with slim green and silvered leaves, which grows
 wild, and, after drying, is used by the peasants as a
 substitute for rye or wheat flour. Only two or three
@@ -2908,7 +2870,7 @@ current in curves and sweeps, moving through the land at the bottom
 of what might have been an enormous drain, turned out to be the famous
 Guadalquivir, which, as Ford vividly puts it, "eats its dull way
 through loamy banks." At last Cordova, seated in an ample plain&mdash;Cordova,
-in vanished ages the home of Seneca, Lucan, Averroës, and
+in vanished ages the home of Seneca, Lucan, Averroës, and
 the poet Juan de Mena&mdash;Cordova, white in the dry and gritty sun-dazzled
 air, with square, unshadowed two-story houses, overlooked by the
 bell-tower of its incomparable Mezquita Cathedral: a cheerful Southern
@@ -3279,9 +3241,9 @@ secretary, who marked the document "Especial."</p>
 
 <p class="figcenter">
 <a href="images/ilp089_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ilp089_sml.jpg" width="411" height="659" alt="&quot;ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!&quot;" title="&quot;ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!&quot;" /></a>
+<img src="images/ilp089_sml.jpg" width="411" height="659" alt="&quot;ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!&quot;" title="&quot;ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!&quot;" /></a>
 <br />
-<span class="caption">&quot;ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!&quot;</span>
+<span class="caption">&quot;ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!&quot;</span>
 </p>
 
 <p>Our brief cavalcade of donkeys started the next morning at five, after
@@ -3297,11 +3259,11 @@ eccentric though eminently literary appellation of "College."</p>
 
 <p>"To the right, College!" our muleteer would shout, exercising a
 despotic power over my four-footed institution of learning. "Get up,
-little mule. <i>Arré burr-r-rico!</i>" Firing off a volley of <i>r</i>'s with a tremendous
+little mule. <i>Arré burr-r-rico!</i>" Firing off a volley of <i>r</i>'s with a tremendous
 rising and falling intonation, which invariably moved the brute to
 take one or two rapid steps before dropping back into his customary
 slow walk. As the heat increased, and the way grew steeper, he sighed
-out his "arré"&mdash;gee up&mdash;in a long, melancholy drawl, which seemed
+out his "arré"&mdash;gee up&mdash;in a long, melancholy drawl, which seemed
 to express profound despair concerning the mulish race generally.
 Muleteers in Spain are termed generically, from this surviving Arabic
 word, <i>arrieros</i>, or, as we may translate it, "gee-uppers."</p>
@@ -3310,7 +3272,7 @@ word, <i>arrieros</i>, or, as we may translate it, "gee-uppers."</p>
 orchards, and a sort of oak called <i>japarros</i>, until we began to mount by
 a rough, stony path which sometimes divided itself like the branches
 of a torrent, though we more than once succeeded in prodding the
-donkeys into a lively canter. The white façades of villas&mdash;<i>quintas</i> or
+donkeys into a lively canter. The white façades of villas&mdash;<i>quintas</i> or
 <i>carmens</i> they are denominated hereabout&mdash;twinkled out from nooks of
 the hills; but at that early hour everything was very still. We could
 almost <i>see</i> the silence around us. Higher up, unknown birds began to
@@ -3522,7 +3484,7 @@ contented.</p>
 <p>We breakfasted at ten in a room hospitably put at our disposal, the
 windows of which admitted a delicious breeze and opened upon a magnificent
 view of the plain far below, where the distant city rested like
-a white mist&mdash;an impalpable thing. Brother José brought some olives,
+a white mist&mdash;an impalpable thing. Brother José brought some olives,
 to add to the refection which our sumpter-mule had carried to this
 height. They had a ripe, acid, oily flavor, which made one think of
 homely things and of patient housewives in remote American hills, who
@@ -3539,7 +3501,7 @@ Cordova the Old, so that not a vestige remains where compressed
 masses of human dwellings once stood. They are crumbled to
 an indistinguishable powder. That soft autumnal soil has swallowed up
 the bones of unnumbered generations, and no trace of them is left. We
-imagined the glittering legions of Cæsar as they moved slowly through
+imagined the glittering legions of Cæsar as they moved slowly through
 the country, flashing the sun from their compact steel, at that time<a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>
 when they put to the sword twenty-five thousand inhabitants of the
 city, which had sided with Pompey. We saw the Moors once more
@@ -3674,7 +3636,7 @@ that we were of much more value than the hermits; and assuredly
 those earnest ascetics compared favorably with our mule-driver, who
 was remarkable only for an expression of incipient humor that was never
 able to attain the height of actual expression. I was sure that, as he
-sighed out his final "Arré" in this world, he would pass into the next
+sighed out his final "Arré" in this world, he would pass into the next
 with that vacant smile on his face, and the joke which he might have
 perpetrated under fortunate circumstances still unuttered. Nor did
 the average life of Cordova strike us as signally indispensable to the
@@ -3760,7 +3722,7 @@ have shed a lustre more enviable
 than his reputation, has
 been made familiar to every
 one by melodious Figaro as
-well; and more lately Mérimée's
+well; and more lately Mérimée's
 Carmen, veiled in the
 music of Bizet, has brought it
 into the foreign consciousness
@@ -3792,7 +3754,7 @@ copper, gold, lead, which have yielded steady tribute for thousands
 of years. In its breadths of sun-bathed plain and orange-mantled slope
 the ancients placed their Elysian Fields. Goth and Roman, Moor and
 Spaniard, struggled for the mastery of so rich a possession; and meanwhile
-Sevilla, the favorite of Cæsar&mdash;his "little Rome"&mdash;lay at the core
+Sevilla, the favorite of Cæsar&mdash;his "little Rome"&mdash;lay at the core
 of the fruitful land, herself careless in the main as to everything except
 an easy life, with plenty of singing and love-making. From climate
 and history, nevertheless, from art and the mingling of antipodal races,
@@ -3959,7 +3921,7 @@ inclusive harmony with itself.</p>
 by the fiercest summer heats; but their religious twilight,
 though inciting to a devout and prayerful sentiment, wraps in obscurity
 the crowded works of art, the emblazoned <i>retablos</i>, the paintings of
-Murillo, Campaña, and Morales, and the costly ornaments bestowed
+Murillo, Campaña, and Morales, and the costly ornaments bestowed
 upon the high altar, as well as those of some thirty side-chapels. In
 the central nave, before a shrine at the choir-back, lies the tomb of Ferdinand,
 son of Christopher Columbus. The colossal form of another
@@ -4017,7 +3979,7 @@ Santa Maria&mdash;profanely called The Fat One&mdash;is the largest: such is
 the battery at command. They are not all used at once, however, for
 the Angelus. The ringer and his two sons were satisfied with touching
 up Santa Catalina (of a tone peculiarly deep and acceptable), St. John
-the Baptist, San José, and one or two others. The whole brazen family
+the Baptist, San José, and one or two others. The whole brazen family
 have been duly baptized, among them being San Laureano and San
 Isidoro, named after the special patrons of Sevilla. One after another
 their tongues rolled forth a deafening roar, in a systematic disorder of
@@ -4075,7 +4037,7 @@ fourteenth century, was a monarch of a severely playful disposition.
 He used to have the heads of people that were obnoxious to him cut off,
 and hung up over the lintel of his dressing-room door, where he could
 look at them while he was putting in his shirt-studs, or whenever he
-felt bored. In the extensive gardens, half Eastern and half mediæval,
+felt bored. In the extensive gardens, half Eastern and half mediæval,
 behind the palace, among the box and myrtle planted in forms of heraldic
 devices, among the palms and terraces and fountains, there run
 long paths, secretly perforated in places for fine jets of water. These
@@ -4164,7 +4126,7 @@ is on the whole depressing.</p>
 <p>The House of Pilate, owned by the Duke of Medina Celi, is quite
 another sort of thing from San Telmo; a roomy, irregular edifice, dating
 from the sixteenth century, but almost wholly Saracenic. The walls are
-<i>repoussés</i> in fine arabesques, and sheathed at the base with old color-veined
+<i>repoussés</i> in fine arabesques, and sheathed at the base with old color-veined
 tiles that throw back the light in flashes from their surface.
 These also enamel the grand staircase, which makes a square turn beneath
 a roof described as a <i>media naranja</i>&mdash;natural Spanish music for
@@ -4195,7 +4157,7 @@ the threshold these sounds continued with <i>crescendo</i> effect, ourselves bei
 taken for the theme. At least one hundred girls fixed their attention
 on us, delivering a volley of salutations, jokes, and general remarks.</p>
 
-<p>"What do you seek, little señor? You will get no <i>papelitos</i> here!"
+<p>"What do you seek, little señor? You will get no <i>papelitos</i> here!"
 exclaimed one, pretty enough to venture on sauciness.</p>
 
 <p>"French, French! don't you see?" another said; and her companions,
@@ -4236,7 +4198,7 @@ low tables distributed through a heavily groined stone hall choked
 with thick pillars, and some six hundred or seven hundred yards in
 length. Others, on the contrary, looked blooming and coquettish.
 Many were in startling deshabille, resorted to on account of the intense
-July heat, and hastened to draw pretty <i>pañuelos</i>
+July heat, and hastened to draw pretty <i>pañuelos</i>
 of variegated dye over
 their bare shoulders when they saw us coming. Here, too, there was a
 large nursery business being carried on, with a very damaged article of
@@ -4249,7 +4211,7 @@ did not, it was not because there was any lack of shrines in the factory.<a name
 They were erected here and there against the wall, with gilt images
 and candles arrayed in front of a white sheet, and occasionally the older
 women knelt at their devotions before them. I don't object to the
-shrines, but it struck me that a good <i>crèche</i> system for the children
+shrines, but it struck me that a good <i>crèche</i> system for the children
 might not come amiss.</p>
 
 <p>
@@ -4279,7 +4241,7 @@ The betrothed suitor, if he is quite correct, must
 hold his tender interviews with his mistress
 through its forbidding bars. My companion
 actually saw a handsome young fellow standing on the sidewalk, and
-conducting one of these peculiar <i>tête-à-têtes</i>.
+conducting one of these peculiar <i>tête-à-têtes</i>.
 </p>
 
 <div class="figright" style="width: 117px;">
@@ -4295,7 +4257,7 @@ make,<br />
 Nor iron bars a cage.&quot;</span>
 </div>
 
-<p>Every house is, furthermore, provided with a <i>patio</i>. The façades,
+<p>Every house is, furthermore, provided with a <i>patio</i>. The façades,
 as a rule, are monotonous and unspeakably plain, but the poorest dwelling
 always has its airy court set with shrubs, and perhaps provided with
 water. They are tiled, as most rooms are in Spain&mdash;a good precaution
@@ -4375,7 +4337,7 @@ would be the easiest way out.</p>
 <p>Shall we go to the Thursday-morning fair, which begins, in order to
 avoid the great heats, at 6 <small>A.M.</small>? Come, then; and if we are up early,
 we may pass on the way through the low-walled market, gay with
-fruits, flowers, vegetables, where bread from Alcalá in the exact pattern
+fruits, flowers, vegetables, where bread from Alcalá in the exact pattern
 of buttercup blossoms is sold, and where, at a particularly bloody and
 ferocious stall, butchers are dispensing the meat of bulls slaughtered at
 the fights. The fair is held in Fair Street. A frantic miscellany of old
@@ -4417,7 +4379,7 @@ Three o'clock has struck."</p>
 
 <p class="figcenter">
 <a href="images/ilp125_lg.jpg">
-<img src="images/ilp125_sml.jpg" width="404" height="47" alt="Musical notation: A&mdash;ve Ma&mdash;ri&mdash;a pur&mdash;is&mdash;si&mdash;ma! Las tré&mdash;es han toc&mdash;ca&mdash;do." title="Musical notation: A&mdash;ve Ma&mdash;ri&mdash;a pur&mdash;is&mdash;si&mdash;ma! Las tré&mdash;es han toc&mdash;ca&mdash;do." /></a>
+<img src="images/ilp125_sml.jpg" width="404" height="47" alt="Musical notation: A&mdash;ve Ma&mdash;ri&mdash;a pur&mdash;is&mdash;si&mdash;ma! Las tré&mdash;es han toc&mdash;ca&mdash;do." title="Musical notation: A&mdash;ve Ma&mdash;ri&mdash;a pur&mdash;is&mdash;si&mdash;ma! Las tré&mdash;es han toc&mdash;ca&mdash;do." /></a>
 </p>
 
 <h3>II.</h3>
@@ -4435,7 +4397,7 @@ imagination, of these Southerners. Their imagination will explain also
 the vogue of their brief, sometimes pathetic, yet never more than half-expressed,
 scraps of song, which are sung with so much feeling throughout
 the kingdom to crude barbaric airs, and loved alike by gentle and
-simple. I mean the <i>Peteneras</i> and <i>Malagueñas</i>. There are others of
+simple. I mean the <i>Peteneras</i> and <i>Malagueñas</i>. There are others of
 the same general kind, sung to a variety of dances; but the ruling tunes
 are alike&mdash;usually pitched in a minor key, and interspersed with passionate
 trills, long quavers, unexpected ups and downs, which it requires
@@ -4532,7 +4494,7 @@ of our negro improvisations:</p>
 <p>There was one evening in Granada when we sat in a company of
 some two dozen people, and one after another of the ladies took her
 turn in singing to the guitar of a little girl, a musical prodigy. But
-they were all outdone by Cándida, the brisk, naïve, handsome serving-girl,
+they were all outdone by Cándida, the brisk, naïve, handsome serving-girl,
 who was invited in, but preferred to stand outside the grated window,
 near the lemon-trees and pomegranates, looking in, with a flower
 in her hair, and pouring into the room her warm contralto&mdash;that voice
@@ -4631,7 +4593,7 @@ Moorish watch-towers rising like chessmen on the highest crests. The
 olive-trees spread on wide slopes of tanned earth were like thick dots<a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>
 of black connected in one design, and seemed to suggest the possible
 origin of Spanish lace. The shapes of the mountains, too, were extravagant.
-One of the most singular, the <i>Peñon de los Enamorados</i>, near
+One of the most singular, the <i>Peñon de los Enamorados</i>, near
 Antequera, showed us by accident at a distance the exact profile of
 George Washington, with every detail after Stuart, hewn out in mountain
 size and looking directly up into the heavens from a position of
@@ -4661,7 +4623,7 @@ that drifted by from time to time. The other mountains were bare
 and golden brown. But in their midst the mild Vega, inlaid with
 curves of the River Genil, receded in breadths of alternate green orchard
 and mellow rye, where distant villages are scattered "like white
-antelopes at pasture," says Señor Don Contreras, the accomplished
+antelopes at pasture," says Señor Don Contreras, the accomplished
 curator of the Alhambra. It was not like a dream, for dreams are imitative;
 nor like reality, for that is too unstable. It was blended of both
 these, with a purely ideal strand. As I looked at the rusty red walls
@@ -4706,10 +4668,10 @@ brick with enamellings on argil, into the open gravelled Place of the Reservoirs
 This is undermined by a fettered lake, generally attributed to
 the Moors, but more probably made after Isabella's conquest. On the
 right side, behind hedges and low trees, is reared that gray rectangular
-Græco-Roman pile which Charles V. had the audacity to begin. His
+Græco-Roman pile which Charles V. had the audacity to begin. His
 palace is deservedly unfinished, yet its intrusion is effective. It makes
 you think of the terror-striking helmet of unearthly size in the Castle
-of Otranto, and looks indeed like a piece of mediæval armor flung down
+of Otranto, and looks indeed like a piece of mediæval armor flung down
 here to challenge vainly the wise Arabian beauty of the older edifice.
 To the Place of Reservoirs come in uninterrupted course all day the
 tinkling and tasselled mules that carry back to the city jars of fresh
@@ -4890,11 +4852,11 @@ from a superb embayed window a little oasis of fountained court,
 blooming with citrons and lemons, and bedded with violets. That
 small garden, green and laughing, and interspersed with dark flower-mould,
 lies clasped in the branching wings of masonry, as simple and
-refreshing as a dew-drop. It is shut in on the other side by some mediæval
+refreshing as a dew-drop. It is shut in on the other side by some mediæval
 rooms fitted up in heavy oak panelling for Philip V. and his second
 bride, Elisabetta, when with rare judgment they chose this Islamitic<a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>
 spot for their honey-moon&mdash;a crescent, I suppose. It was in one
-of these rooms&mdash;the Room of the Fruits&mdash;that, to quote Señor Contreras
+of these rooms&mdash;the Room of the Fruits&mdash;that, to quote Señor Contreras
 again, "the celebrated poet Washington Irving harbored, composing
 there his best works." From which it will be inferred that the
 gallant Spaniard has not probed deeply the "Knickerbocker History
@@ -4973,7 +4935,7 @@ of historic ashes, and is imbued with a pathos,</p>
 magic stronghold&mdash;this "fortress and mansion of joy," as one of the
 mural mottoes calls it&mdash;is among its main charms. The most bitter
 opponent of any Moorish return to power in Granada would, I think,
-be the modern æsthetic tourist. I rambled frequently close under the
+be the modern æsthetic tourist. I rambled frequently close under the
 old rufous-mottled walls, from which young trees sprout up lustily, and
 enjoyed their decay almost as much as I did the palace. At one point
 near the Tower of Seven Stories (which has never quite recovered from
@@ -4992,7 +4954,7 @@ sifted through the leaves. But at night everything died away except
 the rush of water, which grew louder and louder till it filled the whole
 air like a ghostly warning. I used to wake long after midnight, and
 hear nothing but this chilling whisper, unless by chance some gypsies
-squatted on the road were singing <i>Malagueñas</i>, or the strange, piercing
+squatted on the road were singing <i>Malagueñas</i>, or the strange, piercing
 note of the tree-toad that haunts the hill rung out in elfin and inhuman
 pipings of woe. For the builders who laid them here these running
 streams make a fit memorial&mdash;unstable as their power that has slipped
@@ -5157,7 +5119,7 @@ degraded foulness on a nearer view, that I found no amount of theory
 would avail to restore their interest. Yet some of the fortune-telling
 women are spirited enough, and the inextinguishable Romany spark
 smoulders in their black eyes. Perhaps it was an interloping drop of
-Celtic blood that made one of them say to me, "Señorito, listen. I
+Celtic blood that made one of them say to me, "Señorito, listen. I
 will tell you your fortune. But I speak French&mdash;<i>I come from Africa!</i>"
 And to clinch the matter she added, "You needn't pay me if every
 word of the prediction isn't true!" Much as I had heard of the Spanish
@@ -5196,7 +5158,7 @@ dashes of living reality. Even the tedious bustle of a Spanish town,
 too, has its attractions. The moving figures on the steep Albaycin
 streets, that perpetually break into flights of steps; the blocks of
 pressed snow brought in mule panniers every night from the Sierra to
-cool sugar-water and risadas of orange at the cafés; peasants coming
+cool sugar-water and risadas of orange at the cafés; peasants coming
 in to the beautiful old grain market with gaudy mantles over their
 shoulders, stuffing into their sashes a variety of purchases, and becoming
 corpulent with a day's transactions; the patient efforts of shop-keepers<a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>
@@ -5247,7 +5209,7 @@ quality, the suppressed, tantalized
 sensuousness belonging
 to Eastern performances in the
 saltatory line. It forms a popular
-entertainment in cafés of
+entertainment in cafés of
 the lower order throughout the
 southern provinces, from Madrid
 all the way around to Valencia,
@@ -5294,7 +5256,7 @@ the platform, but he does not pretend to contribute to the programme
 beyond an exclamation of encouragement to the performers at intervals.
 He is a Turveydrop in deportment at moments, and always a
 Crummles in self-esteem. A few highly favored individuals as they
-come into the café salute him, and receive a condescending nod in return.
+come into the café salute him, and receive a condescending nod in return.
 Then some friend in the audience sends up to him a glass of
 chamomile wine, or comes close and offers it with his own hand. The
 leader invariably makes excuses, and without exception ends by taking
@@ -5318,7 +5280,7 @@ melancholy strain. Two or three women chant a weird song, and
 all clap their hands in a peculiar measure, now louder, now fainter, and
 with pauses of varying length between the emphatic reports. The
 dancer has not yet risen from her seat; she seems to demand encouragement.
-The others call out, "Ollé!"&mdash;a gypsy word for "bravo!"&mdash;and
+The others call out, "Ollé!"&mdash;a gypsy word for "bravo!"&mdash;and
 smile and nod their heads at her to draw her on. All this excites
 in you a livelier curiosity, a sort of suspense. "What can be coming
 now?" you ask. Finally she gets up, smiling half scornfully; a light
@@ -5356,7 +5318,7 @@ sounds follow like pistol reports. The regular <i>clack</i>, <i>clack-clack</i>
 smitten hands goes on about her, and the cries of the rest increase in
 zest and loudness.</p>
 
-<p>"Ollé! ollé!"</p>
+<p>"Ollé! ollé!"</p>
 
 <p>"Bravo, my gracious one!"</p>
 
@@ -5514,7 +5476,7 @@ the mouth of a city drain seemed to be particularly well patronized.
 The streets, almost forsaken by day, were crowded after nightfall. The
 shops were open late. By eight or nine o'clock life began.</p>
 
-<p>The Café de la Loba (the Wolf)&mdash;an immense building, where
+<p>The Café de la Loba (the Wolf)&mdash;an immense building, where
 there is a court entirely roofed over by a single grape-vine, spreading<a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>
 from a stem fifteen inches in diameter, and rivalling the famous vines
 of Hampton Court and Windsor&mdash;was well filled, and in many small
@@ -5524,7 +5486,7 @@ vicinity. These are too heating to be taken in such a climate, as we
 were able to convince ourselves on tasting some fine vintages at one
 of the <i>bodegas</i> the next day. Nevertheless, the lower class of the inhabitants
 find no difficulty in attaining to a maximum of drunkenness
-on milder beverages. Even the respectable idlers in the café under
+on milder beverages. Even the respectable idlers in the café under
 our hotel drank a great deal too much beer, if I may judge from
 their prolonging their obstreperous discussion of politics into the small
 hours, while we lay feverish in a room above listening to their voices,
@@ -5650,7 +5612,7 @@ with white&mdash;a pale golden dome above us, and a delicious wind playing
 round us, like the exhalation of some balmy sub-tropical dream. On
 these coast steamers one buys a ticket for the transport, and then pays
 for what he eats. This rule reduced the company at our deck table to
-a choice and pleasant circle, the head of which was Señor Segovia, one
+a choice and pleasant circle, the head of which was Señor Segovia, one
 of the owners of the line, a benignant, comfortable Spaniard&mdash;"an Andalusian
 to the core," as he proudly said. We had, as usual, early
 chocolate at six or seven; breakfast not so near eleven as to admit any
@@ -5719,7 +5681,7 @@ also had a handsome, gay, talkative, and witty Frenchman, who, with
 a morbid conscientiousness as to what was fitting, insisted on being
 sea-sick, although the sea was hardly ruffled; and him we succeeded in
 resuscitating, after the boat had come quietly to anchor in the harbor,
-so far that he began to long audibly for Paris and the café on the
+so far that he began to long audibly for Paris and the café on the
 boulevard, "<i>et mon absinthe</i>." We watched with these companions the<a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>
 naked boys who surrounded the vessel in a flotilla of row-boats, offering
 to dive for coppers thrown into the water, precisely as I have seen
@@ -5730,7 +5692,7 @@ as they dropped silently into the barges that bore them to shore&mdash;some
 utterly destitute, with only the clothes in which they had fled
 before the fanatic murderers, and others accompanied by a few meagre
 household goods. Did they feel that "irremediable nostalgia," I wonder,
-of which Señor Castelar speaks? The sun was as hot as that which
+of which Señor Castelar speaks? The sun was as hot as that which
 had shone upon them just across the strait, on the edge of the Dark
 Continent; and the low-roofed glaring houses huddled at the feet of the
 Moorish stronghold, the Alcasaba, were so Oriental that I should think
@@ -5996,14 +5958,14 @@ For instance, I would call the waiter.
 <p>When he came with it I tried to rise to his standard by saying,
 "Thanks&mdash;a thousand thanks."</p>
 
-<p>"They do not merit themselves, señor," said he, not to be outdone.</p>
+<p>"They do not merit themselves, señor," said he, not to be outdone.</p>
 
 <p>I asked if I could have a <i>garspacho</i> for breakfast. The <i>garspacho</i>
 is an Andalusian soup-salad, very cooling, made of stewed and strained<a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>
 tomato, water, vinegar, sliced cucumber, boiled green peppers, a dash
 of garlic, and some bits of bread; the whole served frost-cold.</p>
 
-<p>"I don't know&mdash;it is not in the list. I feel it, señor. It weighs
+<p>"I don't know&mdash;it is not in the list. I feel it, señor. It weighs
 upon my soul. But I will see, and will return in an Ave Maria to let
 you know."</p>
 
@@ -6110,7 +6072,7 @@ look out of the window, and soon had cause to consider the peasant
 a benefactor; for we were just leaving Jativa, a most picturesque old
 town, with a castle famous even in Roman times; the native place,
 also, of the Borgias (Pope Calixtus III., and Rodrigro, the father of
-Cæsar Borgia). Immediately afterward we entered the garden region.
+Cæsar Borgia). Immediately afterward we entered the garden region.
 Miles of carefully-tended growth, thousands of orchards linked
 together in one series, acres upon acres of fields where every square
 inch is made to yield abundantly&mdash;such is the Huerta of Valencia.
@@ -6227,9 +6189,9 @@ as a dutiable importation.</p>
 two miles distant. A broad boulevard hedged with sycamores leads
 thither, which in summer is crowded by <i>tartanas</i>&mdash;bouncing little covered
 wagons lined with crimson curtains, and usually carrying a load
-of pretty señoritas&mdash;and by more imposing equipages adorned with
+of pretty señoritas&mdash;and by more imposing equipages adorned with
 footmen in the English style. Everybody goes to the shore to bathe
-toward evening, for Valencia is the Brighton of the Madrileños. The
+toward evening, for Valencia is the Brighton of the Madrileños. The
 little bathing establishments extend for a long distance on the sands,
 and are very neat. Each has its fanciful name, as "The Pearl," or
 "The Madrid Girl," and the proprietors stand in front vociferously soliciting
@@ -6289,7 +6251,7 @@ city of the kingdom, and you find it the boast of the citizens
 that they are not Spaniards. They are Spanish mainly in their love
 of revolt. So prompt are they to join in every uprising, that the garrison
 quartered there has to be kept as high as ten thousand men; but
-for the most part it is rather a French maritime dépot than a thing of
+for the most part it is rather a French maritime dépot than a thing of
 ancient or peculiar Spain. There is a large and artificial park on one
 side, and the fort of Monjuich on the other, and a lot of shipping in
 the harbor; and a glorious embowered avenue, called the Rambla,<a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>
@@ -6326,7 +6288,7 @@ dark, these fading glories of heraldry steal gradually upon the eye, as
 if through the obscuring night of time. I found the ancient cloister,
 without, on the south-west side, a delightful, shadowy, suggestive place:
 there, too, may be seen a fountain surmounted by a small equestrian
-statue of St. George, which reminds one of a fabulous story in Münchausen;
+statue of St. George, which reminds one of a fabulous story in Münchausen;
 for the tail of the horse is formed by a jet of water flowing
 out of the body at the rear. Inside the church again hangs, under the
 organ-loft, an enormous wooden and painted Saracen's head&mdash;a species
@@ -6334,11 +6296,11 @@ of relic not uncommon, I believe, in Catalonian temples. It may be
 added here that the custom of the "historical giants" at Corpus Christi
 is maintained in Barcelona as we had seen it at Burgos, and those effigies
 are stowed away somewhere in the sacred precincts. There is a<a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>
-curious mingling of the naïve and the sophisticated in the fact that
+curious mingling of the naïve and the sophisticated in the fact that
 some of the giants, wearing female attire, have new dresses for each
 year, and thereby set the fashions for the ensuing twelvemonth for all
 the womankind of the city. And however advanced the urban society
-may be, with its trade, its opera, its books, gilded cafés and superb clubs,
+may be, with its trade, its opera, its books, gilded cafés and superb clubs,
 the spirit of progress does not spread very far into the country. When
 a piece of railroad was built, not very long ago, opening up a new rural
 section in the neighborhood, the peasants watched the advance of the
@@ -6376,7 +6338,7 @@ enchanter's wand, instead of a plain, business-like little instrument.</p>
 
 <p>With its usual fatuity the railroad obliged us to start so early that
 at the first dusky gray streak of dawn we were dismally taking our
-coffee in the <i>patio</i> of the hotel. The <i>dueño</i> was sleeping by sections<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>
+coffee in the <i>patio</i> of the hotel. The <i>dueño</i> was sleeping by sections<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>
 on two hard chairs, considerately screened from us by a clump of
 orange shrubs, and murmuring now and then some direction to the
 half-invisible waiter floating about in a dark arcade; but he roused
@@ -6387,7 +6349,7 @@ to eddy round the facts of to-day, in such a country, the moment
 human activity is suspended or the reality of the present is at all
 dimmed. Silence here leads at once to retrospection; differing in this
 from the mute solitude of American places, which somehow always
-tingles with anticipation. And the <i>dueño</i>, in overcharging us, became
+tingles with anticipation. And the <i>dueño</i>, in overcharging us, became
 only the type of a long line of historic plunderers that have infested
 the Peninsula from the date of the Roman rule down to the incursion
 of Napoleon and the most recent period. His little game was invested
@@ -6402,7 +6364,7 @@ longer Spain."</p>
 Spain, and a pang of regret followed those words.</p>
 
 <p>As we issued from the hotel we saw, crossing the street in the increased
-dawn-light, and striding toward the dépot, the two Civil Guards.
+dawn-light, and striding toward the dépot, the two Civil Guards.
 It looked as if we should be captured on the very threshold of liberty.
 The thought lent wings to our haste.... Some hours afterward, when
 we were passing through the tunnels of the Pyrenees, we congratulated
@@ -6491,7 +6453,7 @@ digestion which finds itself annoyed by a peculiar cookery; and no
 amount of irritation will suffice to make Spanish officials and keepers
 of hostelries one whit more obliging than they are at present&mdash;their
 regard for the convenience of the public being just about equal to that
-of the average American hotel clerk or railroad employé.</p>
+of the average American hotel clerk or railroad employé.</p>
 
 <p><i>Passports</i>.&mdash;Next to patience may be placed a passport; though it
 differs from the former article in being of no particular use. I observe
@@ -6621,7 +6583,7 @@ in succession all the cities and towns which it is worth while to visit.
 A ticket of this kind costs only about ninety dollars, whereas the usual
 fare from Paris to Madrid alone is nearly or quite forty dollars. The
 <i>billets circulaires</i> may be obtained at a certain central ticket-office in
-the Rue St. Honoré, at Paris, to which the inquirer at either of the
+the Rue St. Honoré, at Paris, to which the inquirer at either of the
 great Southern railroads&mdash;that is, the Paris-Lyons and the Orleans
 lines&mdash;will be directed. The list of places at which one is permitted
 to stop, on this round-trip system, is very extensive, and a coupon
@@ -6780,7 +6742,7 @@ but we sustained no loss.</p>
 
 <p><i>Language</i>.&mdash;One cannot travel to the best advantage in Spain without
 having at least a moderate knowledge of French; or, still better,<a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>
-of Spanish. Railroad employés, customs officers, guards, and inn-keepers
+of Spanish. Railroad employés, customs officers, guards, and inn-keepers
 there, as a rule, understand only their native tongue. Now
 and then one will be found who has command of a very few French
 words; but this is quite the exception, and even when it occurs, is not
@@ -6822,7 +6784,7 @@ of this kind are often enough met by a lethargic dignity and inertia
 that are far from gratifying. Under such circumstances, let the tourist
 remember and apply that prerequisite which I began with mentioning<a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>&mdash;good-humored
 patience. I found my companions by the rail or at
-<i>tables d'hóte</i> sometimes considerate and agreeable, at others quite the
+<i>tables d'hóte</i> sometimes considerate and agreeable, at others quite the
 reverse, and disposed to ignore the existence of foreigners as something
 beneath notice. I remember once, when Velveteen and I, obliged to
 change cars, had barely time, before the train was to move again, to
@@ -6905,7 +6867,7 @@ where the very best rooms are supplied. The foreigner, of course,
 pays a good deal more than the native, but it is impossible for him to
 avoid that. Sometimes coffee after dinner is included in this price, but
 coffee after the mid-day breakfast is charged as an extra; and so are<a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>
-all wines except the ordinary red or white Val de Peñas, which are
+all wines except the ordinary red or white Val de Peñas, which are
 supplied with both meals. Nothing is furnished before the breakfast
 hour excepting a cup of chocolate, some bread, and, possibly, butter.
 One should always see his rooms before engaging them, and also be
@@ -6992,14 +6954,14 @@ promptness and safety, it appears; although at Malaga I observed a
 large padlocked and green-painted chest with a narrow aperture in it,<a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>
 lying on the sidewalk in no particular custody, and learned that it was
 a convenient movable post-office. Furthermore, it is bewildering to
-find, after painfully travelling to the genuine post-office (the <i>Corréo</i>),
+find, after painfully travelling to the genuine post-office (the <i>Corréo</i>),
 that you cannot buy any stamps there. These are kept on sale only
 at the shops of tobacconists, whose trade likewise makes them agents
 of the governmental monopoly in cigars, cigarettes, etc. The tobacconists'
 stores bear the sign <i>Estanco</i> (stamp-shop); and, after one is
 accustomed to the plan, it becomes really more convenient to obtain
 one's postage from them. To weigh large envelopes or packages, however,
-the sender must resort to the <i>Corréo</i>. International postal cards
+the sender must resort to the <i>Corréo</i>. International postal cards
 may be had, which are good between Spain and France, and other
 rates are not high. Those who intend to pass rapidly from point to
 point will do well to have all correspondence directed to the care of
@@ -7034,7 +6996,7 @@ you will not find them in Spain. It is pleasant, for example, to refer
 on the spot to an English version of "Don Quixote," or the French<a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>
 "Gil Blas;" or Prescott's "Ferdinand and Isabella," and the "Columbus,"
 the "Conquest of Granada," and "Tales of the Alhambra," by
-Irving. Théophile Gautier's "Voyage en Espagne" is another very
+Irving. Théophile Gautier's "Voyage en Espagne" is another very
 delightful hand-mirror in which to see your own observations reflected.
 But none of these are obtainable except, possibly, in Madrid and Barcelona;
 and even there it is not certain that they will be found. These
@@ -7084,7 +7046,7 @@ more or less Napoleons with you, because French gold is trusted, and
 passes with slight discount. The traveller should be provided with
 both kinds. Always and persistently refuse Spanish paper.</p>
 
-<p><i>Buying Bric-à-brac, Lace, etc</i>.&mdash;Those who wish to purchase characteristic
+<p><i>Buying Bric-à-brac, Lace, etc</i>.&mdash;Those who wish to purchase characteristic
 products of the country, ancient or modern, need not fear that
 opportunity will be wanting; but the most obvious means are not
 always the best. The interpreters or guides attached to hotels are
@@ -7109,7 +7071,7 @@ be premised that the assistance of some personal acquaintance among
 the Spaniards themselves, if it can be had, will always effect a considerable
 saving; and, when time can be allowed, the best way always is
 to make inquiry and prowl around among the stores for one's self.
-There are few professed antiquarian and bric-à-brac salesrooms out of
+There are few professed antiquarian and bric-à-brac salesrooms out of
 Madrid; but one can often pick up what he wants in out-of-the-way
 places. Perhaps the best towns in which to buy the peculiar gay-colored
 and ball-fringed <i>mantas</i>, or mantles of the country, and the
@@ -7153,7 +7115,7 @@ and are sparsely imported into the United States&mdash;offers larger prizes
 to those who search and pay. Many relics of ancient costume, dating
 from the period of courtly splendor; rich fabrics; embroideries; sacerdotal
 robes and disused altar-cloths; and occasional precious metal-work,
-may farther be unearthed in the bric-à-brac shops. With due
+may farther be unearthed in the bric-à-brac shops. With due
 care such objects will often be obtained at moderate cost. But it is to
 be remembered that the price paid on the spot forms only one item.<a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>
 Transportation to the final shipping-point and the ocean freightage are
@@ -7257,7 +7219,7 @@ entire room before starting.</p>
 and it is seldom that one can secure a sleeping-coach. On much-travelled
 lines these are usually bespoken a week in advance. Failing to
 get the <i>wagon-lit</i>, as the sleeping-car is called, after the French fashion,
-one may sometimes engage a <i>berlina</i>, which is simply the <i>coupé</i> or end
+one may sometimes engage a <i>berlina</i>, which is simply the <i>coupé</i> or end
 compartment of a car. This, being made to seat three persons instead
 of six, is allowed to be reserved. It costs about two dollars for a distance
 of one hundred miles.</p>
@@ -7295,7 +7257,7 @@ style="font-size:small;">
 <tr><td>Madrid</td><td align="right">8</td></tr>
 <tr><td>&nbsp; &nbsp; Or, from Avila go direct to Madrid, and<br />
 &nbsp; &nbsp; then to Escorial, Segovia, and return.</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-<tr><td>Alcalá de Henáres (birthplace of Cervantes)<br />
+<tr><td>Alcalá de Henáres (birthplace of Cervantes)<br />
 &nbsp; &nbsp; may be reached by a short railtrip from<br />
 &nbsp; &nbsp; Madrid eastward</td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
 <tr><td>Aranjuez</td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
@@ -7445,7 +7407,7 @@ Valencia, Tarragona, and even Barcelona&mdash;far north though the last-mentione
 is&mdash;all offer extraordinary advantages of climate to the average
 run of patients afflicted with chronic chest disease, pulmonary consumption,
 chronic bronchitis, bronchitic asthma, chronic diseases of the
-kidney, debility and anæmia from any cause, and the failing vitality of
+kidney, debility and anæmia from any cause, and the failing vitality of
 old age. Cadiz, too, possesses a most equable temperature. It is noted,
 however, by the writer whom I follow, that the dry air of these places
 is injurious in those exceptional cases of chest disease, of nervous
@@ -7606,7 +7568,7 @@ Portrait and Illustrations. Royal 4to, Cloth, Gilt Edges, $5 00.<br />
 
 <p class="hang">
 <b>The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.</b><br />
-By <span class="smcap">Samuel Taylor Coleridge</span>. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">Gustave Doré</span>.<br />
+By <span class="smcap">Samuel Taylor Coleridge</span>. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">Gustave Doré</span>.<br />
 Folio, Cloth, Gilt Edges, $10 00. (<i>In a Box</i>.)<br />
 </p>
 
@@ -7675,385 +7637,6 @@ that the first of them came from the Netherlands.</p></div>
 
 <hr class="full" />
 
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's Spanish Vistas, by George Parsons Lathrop
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