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@@ -1,39 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Nooks and Corners of Old Paris - -Author: Georges Cain - -Translator: Frederick Lawton - -Release Date: July 23, 2012 [EBook #40306] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - - - - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. This book was produced from -scanned images of public domain material from the Internet -Archive. - - - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40306 *** NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS @@ -81,7 +46,7 @@ FREDERICK LAWTON, M.A. DEDICATED TO -A. G. LENOTRE +A. G. LENÔTRE IN TOKEN OF MOST SINCERE AFFECTION @@ -124,27 +89,27 @@ LIST OF ENGRAVINGS 23. The Pont Marie in 1886 103 24. The Isle of Saint-Louis 107 25. The College of Louis-le-Grand 111 - 26. The Inner Courtyard of the Ecole Polytechnique 113 + 26. The Inner Courtyard of the École Polytechnique 113 27. The Rue Clovis in 1867 115 - 28. The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Genevieve in 1866 119 - 29. The Pantheon, in building 121 - 30. Procession in front of Sainte-Genevieve 123 + 28. The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in 1866 119 + 29. The Panthéon, in building 121 + 30. Procession in front of Sainte-Geneviève 123 31. The Apotheosis of Jean-Jacques Rousseau 127 32. The Luxembourg, about 1790 131 33. Fraternal Suppers in the Sections of Paris 135 - 34. Fete given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, + 34. Fête given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, Anno VII. 139 - 35. The Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine in 1866 (house where Marat + 35. The Rue de l'École de Médecine in 1866 (house where Marat was assassinated) 143 - 36. The Gallery of the Odeon (Rue Rotrou) 146 + 36. The Gallery of the Odéon (Rue Rotrou) 146 37. The Rohan Courtyard in 1901 147 38. The Rohan Courtyard in 1901 (second view) 151 39. The Rue Visconti 155 40. Alfred de Musset at 23 years of age 157 - 41. The Facade of the Institute 160 + 41. The Façade of the Institute 160 42. View from the Louvre Quay 161 - 43. Paris from the Pointe de la Cite 165 - 44. The Rue des Pretres-Saint-Severin in 1866 169 + 43. Paris from the Pointe de la Cité 165 + 44. The Rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin in 1866 169 45. The Passage des Patriarches 173 46. The Rue Mouffetard 176 47. The Rue Galande 177 @@ -158,12 +123,12 @@ LIST OF ENGRAVINGS Labyrinth 187 53. The Jardin des Plantes in the eighteenth century 191 54. The Jardin des Plantes--Cuvier's House 195 - 55. The Rue de Bievre 199 - 56. The Bievre Tanneries 203 - 57. The Bievre about 1900--The Valence Mill-race 207 + 55. The Rue de Bièvre 199 + 56. The Bièvre Tanneries 203 + 57. The Bièvre about 1900--The Valence Mill-race 207 58. The Constantine Bridge and Stockade 211 59. The Pont-Royal in 1800 213 - 60. The Lesdiguieres Mansion 215 + 60. The Lesdiguières Mansion 215 61. Commemorative Ball on the Ruins of the Bastille 217 62. The Sens Mansion about 1835 221 63. The Provost Hugues Aubryot's Mansion--Charlemagne's @@ -179,20 +144,20 @@ LIST OF ENGRAVINGS Saint-Eustache, in 1867 252 72. The Central Market in 1828 254 73. The Central Market in 1822 255 - 74. Moliere's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie 257 + 74. Molière's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie 257 75. The Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie about 1848 259 - 76. Alexander's Grand Cafe Royal on the Temple Boulevard 263 + 76. Alexander's Grand Cafè Royal on the Temple Boulevard 263 77. Fanchon, the Hurdy-Gurdy player 267 78. View of the Ambigu-Comique on the Temple Boulevard 271 79. The Funambules Theatre on the Temple Boulevard 273 80. The Ambigu Theatre and Boulevard about 1830 277 81. The Porte Saint-Martin 281 82. The Rue Saint-Martin in 1866--The Green-Wood Tower 284 - 83. The Rue de Clery 285 - 84. The Poissonniere Boulevard in 1834 289 + 83. The Rue de Cléry 285 + 84. The Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834 289 85. The Gymnase Theatre 292 86. The Variety Theatre about 1810 293 - 87. The Boulevards, the Hotel de Salm, and Windmills of + 87. The Boulevards, the Hôtel de Salm, and Windmills of Montmartre 297 88. The Rue de la Barre at Montmartre 299 89. A Street in Montmartre 301 @@ -204,7 +169,7 @@ LIST OF ENGRAVINGS 95. Corner Pavilion of the Louis XV. Square about 1850 313 96. View in the Tuileries Gardens in 1808 315 97. The Rue Greuze in 1855 318 - 98. The Madrid Chateau 319 + 98. The Madrid Château 319 99. The Bagatelle Pavilion 322 100. A Performance at the Hippodrome under the Second Empire 323 101. The Arc de Triomphe about 1850 325 @@ -220,7 +185,7 @@ LIST OF ENGRAVINGS PREFACE -_Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mene +_Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mène and Auguste Cain, my excellent friend, Georges Cain, has abundantly shown that he is the worthy inheritor of their talent. To-day, he wishes to prove that he knows how "to handle the pen as well as the pencil" as @@ -312,8 +277,8 @@ the markets. A glance at the old plans of Paris will suffice to show that these unbuilt-on spaces comprised, under Louis XVI., the half, and, under Louis-Philippe, a third of the city's present area. In the Marais and Arsenal quarters, in the Saint-Antoine, Temple, and Popincourt -faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussee d'Antin, the Porcherons, the -Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honore faubourg, and along all the left +faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussée d'Antin, the Porcherons, the +Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honoré faubourg, and along all the left bank of the river, which last was privileged in this respect, there were only scattered dwellings amidst orchards, kitchen-gardens, trellis-vineyards, farmyards, groves, and parks planted with century-old @@ -323,7 +288,7 @@ and, from the health and pleasure point of view, it is a great pity._ _From my window in the Rue d'Enfer, Estrapade Square, close to the blind alley of the Feuillantines, I used to cast my eyes, as far as I could see in every direction, over a wealth of foliage. In the Rue -Neuve-Saint-Etienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once +Neuve-Saint-Étienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once lived, I beheld the towers of Notre Dame, beyond avenues of trimmed trees; and I could say, like the good Monsieur Rollin, in the distich engraved on his door a few yards away:_ Ruris et urbis incola, _that I @@ -332,7 +297,7 @@ gardens, through these silent streets so propitious to quiet labour, and scenting of lilacs and blossoming with pink and white chestnuts, new roads have been cut; the Saint-Germain and Saint-Michel Boulevards, the Rues de Rennes and Gay-Lussac, the Rue Monge which caused the demolition -of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Etienne itself; +of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Étienne itself; and the Rue Claude-Bernard which did away with the Feuillantines, where Victor Hugo, as a child, used to chase butterflies. Soon, the last of the monastic enclosures of the Saint-Jacques quarter, that of the @@ -354,7 +319,7 @@ of the Marais could then have done. During the midsummer heat, Paris was as full as in winter's cold; and the theatres reaped their most abundant harvest, especially popular ones like the Ambigu, the Porte-Saint-Martin, the Gaieti, the Cirque, the Folies-Dramatiques, the -Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Theatre Historique, &c., which were +Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Théâtre Historique, &c., which were situated near together about the Temple Boulevard. The fine weather allowed people living at long distances to come on foot to this dramatic fair, saving the price of a carriage both ways, and to make tail at the @@ -413,10 +378,10 @@ Revolution and the First Empire. Each step in it awoke souvenirs that people thought but little of in my childhood, romanticism being more interested in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and more inquisitive about the massacre of Saint-Barthelemy than about those of September. It -looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Greve Square, but +looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Grève Square, but gave no glance at the sign-post on the same Square, where the unfortunate Foulon was hanged. It deplored the disappearance of the -Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orleans was +Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orléans was murdered, but did not suggest going to see, a few steps further, in the Rue des Ballets, the post where Madame de Lamballe's corpse was beheaded. Artists, novelists, poets, historians disdained these @@ -432,7 +397,7 @@ chambermaid arrested by the porter, just as she is going off with her mistress's gown on her back!_ _In his_ "Stello," _Alfred de Vigny is quite as indifferent to local -colouring as he is to facts. He places Andre Chenier's scaffold "on the +colouring as he is to facts. He places André Chénier's scaffold "on the Revolution Square" after taking him thither in a cart laden with more than "eighty victims, among them being some women with children sucking at the breast"!!!_ @@ -519,7 +484,7 @@ contemporaries of the Pharaohs lie piously buried beneath the column of the Bastille, side by side with the July heroes._ _I knew the courtyard of the Louvre when it had a statue of the Duke of -Orleans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clesinger succeeding +Orléans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clésinger succeeding it. Some fool or other having nicknamed it the "Sire de Framboisy," the joke was too idiotic not to have the greatest success. And to the nickname is partly due the disappearance of a work of art that deserved @@ -536,10 +501,10 @@ was flanked with an ugly wooden corridor, for ever ready to flare up! For, as tradition has it, there is always some permanent risk of fire in the vicinity of the Museum! On the same side, the Civil Service had run up temporary buildings which, from the small courtyard of the -Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Peres bridge, enclosed the ruins of +Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Pères bridge, enclosed the ruins of the ancient church of Saint-Thomas-du-Louvre and its dependencies, such -as the Priory where Theophile Gautier, Gerard de Nerval, Nanteuil, -Arsene Houssaye, and others, had established their "Boheme galante." +as the Priory where Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Nanteuil, +Arsène Houssaye, and others, had established their "Bohème galante." These buildings, in favour of which extenuating circumstances might be pleaded, were hired out to colour, engraving, picture, and curiosity-dealers of all kinds. I still see a large shop of knick-knacks @@ -569,7 +534,7 @@ with dirt and slime._ [Illustration: THE GARDEN OF THE PALAIS ROYAL IN 1791 _"Gouache" by the Chevalier de Lespinasse_ (Carnavalet Museum)] -_As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orleans seemed to have had +_As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orléans seemed to have had built, so that it might be the Forum of the Revolution, if it was no longer the rendezvous of politicians, clubmen, gazetteers, open-air orators, and stock-jobbers, the battlefield of 1793 Republicans and @@ -605,13 +570,13 @@ _Original drawing by G. de Saint-Aubin_ (George Cain Collection)] _Time was when I have seen the Place de la Concorde without its fountains and its statues, save the four horses of Marly--those of Coysevox at the gate of the Tuileries, those of Coustou at the entrance -to the Champs-Elysees. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns +to the Champs-Elysées. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns of France were being restored. Since the days of Louis XV., they had been decked with plaster caps, like saucepan lids, and were despised so much that the one bearing the town of Strasburg was flanked with a base stove-pipe. Anyway, it was the only one that shocked one's eyes. Count those at present that crown the monuments of Gabriel! Round the Square -the ditches still remained, which on fete days had already made so many +the ditches still remained, which on fête days had already made so many victims through the hindrance they offered to the crowd's getting away. One evenings when some fireworks were being let off on the Concorde bridge in honour of the King's birthday, I had only just time enough to @@ -625,7 +590,7 @@ where to put it so as to conciliate everybody's opinion. The old stone monument, indifferent to all parties, was a fitting symbol of their Concord._ -_The Champs-Elysees are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under +_The Champs-Elysées are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under Louis-Philippe! The avenue was not then, like the Boulevard des Italiens, the meeting-place for what was called, in foolish Anglomania, "Fashion." Ices were not drunk there as on Tortoni's steps. Society @@ -663,7 +628,7 @@ repositories, coach-houses, riding-schools, and carriage-builders' premises--particularly carriage-builders'! Near the Rue Chaillot, the Avenue was bordered, on the left, with a broad turf embankment. I have seen, in the fine-weather season, diners cutting up their melon and -leg-of-mutton on it, with the naive joy of city folk enjoying the purer +leg-of-mutton on it, with the naïve joy of city folk enjoying the purer field air._ [Illustration: PATROL ROAD LEADING FROM THE BARRIER OF THE ETOILE IN @@ -696,7 +661,7 @@ off the ashes with his little finger, and stuck it right in the eye of the footpad, who loosed him with a howl that Polyphemus might have uttered! This souvenir haunted me; and, after traversing a wretched hamlet, in which I was guided only by the slope of the ground, I at last -breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pepiniere, promising +breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pépinière, promising myself that I would never again venture into such a cut-throat locality._ @@ -722,7 +687,7 @@ Paris! What visions this magic word calls up--historic Paris, with its palaces, churches, monuments, streets, and squares; the Paris of literature and its admirable procession of writers, poets, thinkers, dramatists, philosophers, and humourists; the Paris of society, its -fetes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of +fêtes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of politicians, the Paris of journalists, religious Paris, the Paris of the police, bohemian Paris, industrial Paris. And how many others still! @@ -745,7 +710,7 @@ means of walks through what remains to us of the dear old Paris, the series of documents painted, pencilled, or engraved which are contained in the Carnavalet Museum. -The house that Madame de Sevigne loved so much has, in fact, become the +The house that Madame de Sévigné loved so much has, in fact, become the museum of the historical collections of the French Capital. [Illustration: THE CARNAVALET MUSEUM] @@ -811,7 +776,7 @@ designs, etchings, and lithographs borrowed from private collections, museums, libraries--and our very pleasant duty is to remark on the exceeding good grace with which every one has helped us. May our gratitude be allowed to mention the names of Messieurs Sardou, Claretie, -Detaille, Lavedan, Lenotre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. +Detaille, Lavedan, Lenôtre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. Meignan, Massenet, Pigoreau, Ch. Drouet, de Rochegude, Beaurepaire, Ch. Sellier, J. Robiquet, our masters or our friends, not forgetting many, besides, who have lent us most precious aid. Indeed, when Paris is in @@ -824,7 +789,7 @@ apropos--"Excuse the faults of the author." [Illustration: THE PONT-ROYAL, THE TUILERIES, AND THE LOUVRE (18th CENTURY) -(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) _Noel, pinxit._] +(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) _Noël, pinxit._] @@ -865,7 +830,7 @@ Augustines, the King betook himself thither from the Louvre in a magnificent barque, accompanied by the Queen-Mother, Catherine de Medici, and by Queen Louise de Vaudemont, his wife. Henri III. looked melancholy; on the same morning, he had interred, in the Church of St. -Paul Quelus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds +Paul Quélus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds received, some weeks before, in the famous duel of the Minions. The irreverent Parisians did not hesitate to declare that, out of @@ -874,7 +839,7 @@ Bridge of Tears." But this opinion did not last; and, as soon as Henri IV. had inaugurated it, in June 1603, "still unsafe" and unachieved, the Pont-Neuf became the gayest place in Paris. Mondor sold his balsam there, and Tabarin spouted his idle talk; there it was that the ape -of Brioche amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were +of Brioché amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were hummed; there that duellists unsheathed their swords, and the bands of Cartouche and Mandrin gallantly relieved pedestrians of their purses. On the merry Pont-Neuf all Paris took their airings, enjoyed themselves, @@ -919,7 +884,7 @@ of antique marble statues?... But the glory of the City is Notre-Dame! Let us follow the winding, picturesque Rue Chanoinesse, where the great Balzac lodged Madame de la Chanterie, and, at No. 18, let us climb the tottering staircase of the -Dagobert Tower, an old and precious debris of the canonical buildings +Dagobert Tower, an old and precious débris of the canonical buildings that once enclosed the Cathedral of Paris. A few dozen worn-down steps will bring us to a narrow platform whence we shall behold an admirable sight. @@ -956,18 +921,18 @@ demi-obscurity of their chapels, more devout, more touched, and closer to the infinite, beneath the painted windows darkened by the dust of centuries and the smoke of incense. -In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hotel-Dieu, before +In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hôtel-Dieu, before reaching the Palais de Justice, one formerly came across a labyrinth of winding, narrow, evil-smelling streets--the Rue de la Juiverie, the Rue -aux Feves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries +aux Fèves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries this quarter had been the haunt of the lowest prostitution; there, too, dyers had established their many-coloured tubs; and blue, red, or green streams flowed down these streets with their old Parisian names. Humble chapels nestled under the eaves of Notre-Dame,--Sainte-Marine, Saint-Pierre-aux-Boeufs, and Saint-Jean-le-Rond, in which last -d'Alembert was buried. The Hotel-Dieu opened on the right of the +d'Alembert was buried. The Hôtel-Dieu opened on the right of the Cathedral, and formed, with the close of Notre-Dame, a really imposing -setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hotel-Dieu +setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hôtel-Dieu and the Prefecture of Police; and these two ugly structures, without taste or originality, seem to be the natural foils of France's national glory, Notre-Dame-de-Paris. @@ -993,7 +958,7 @@ _Etching by Meryon_] Along the Rue de la Colombe passed the Gallo-Roman belt of the City, near the house inhabited by Fulbert, the uncle who employed such cruel -arguments with the unfortunate Heloise, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des +arguments with the unfortunate Héloïse, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des Ursins, at No. 19, may still be perceived the remains of a chapel of the twelfth century, by name Saint-Aignan; St. Bernard is said to have preached in it. It was one of the numerous sanctuaries in which, during @@ -1011,7 +976,7 @@ confessing people in lofts, outhouses, and back-shops. In the Rue Neuve-des-Capucins, mass was said in a chamber above the very dwelling occupied by the terrible Conventional Baboeuf. -Did not the Abbe Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths +Did not the Abbé Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths of his dungeon, where he strengthened the courage of the prisoners ("he prevents them from crying out," said Fouquier-Tinville), organise throughout the Paris prisons a ministry of monks that visited all the @@ -1023,7 +988,7 @@ priests, placed there, wafted to the condemned the absolution pronounced over the dying. Let us go to the other side of the close of Notre-Dame, where the -Hotel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower +Hôtel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower of the Foundlings, and the Cagnards, that old den of debauch of which Meryon has left us such powerful etchings, and before which, as a child, we were accustomed to stop with dread, while we watched the huge rats @@ -1039,7 +1004,7 @@ network of small streets round the Sainte-Chapelle and the Prefecture of Police, with gardens that ran nearly down to the water's edge. At the Pont Saint-Michel, some old houses still remain which witnessed the riots of 1793, 1830, and 1848; another is to be found on the Quai des -Orfevres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist +Orfèvres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist who modestly called himself the "people's tooth-drawer." To-day it is one of the spots dear to lovers of old books, with its open-air book-stalls, and also to anglers, who, in the sun and out of the way of @@ -1065,11 +1030,11 @@ The charming landscape in which she had dreamed so fondly of glory and liberty, she saw once more as she was being led to the guillotine amid the shouts of infuriated men and women. Sanson had taken his ghastly procession along the usual road--the Pont-au-Change, the Quai de la -Megisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the +Mégisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the further bank of the Seine, the poor woman, before she died, was able to give a last look at the scenery she had been familiar with in happier years, scenery over which rose the massive walls of the French -Pantheon--it was the new name of Sainte-Genevieve's Church which the +Panthéon--it was the new name of Sainte-Geneviève's Church which the Convention had just re-baptized and devoted to the worship of our national glories. @@ -1080,11 +1045,11 @@ staircase of the Palais de Justice. The nine steps that put it on a level with the Cour du Mai were mounted by all the condemned victims of the Revolution. The Queen and Charlotte -Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubert's widow, the virtuous Bailly and +Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubért's widow, the virtuous Bailly and Madame du Bailly, Fouquier-Tinville and Monsieur de Malesherbes, Danton, Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, the Abbess of Montmartre, Madame de Monaco and Anacharsis Clootz: princesses and Conventional, dukes -and Hebertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the +and Hébertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the noblest, purest, bravest, the maddest and most miserable crossed this fateful threshold. @@ -1141,7 +1106,7 @@ _Schaan, pinxit_] This railing still exists, black, rusty, and ill-looking, creaking as of yore; and it is not difficult to conjure up the images of those that -bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cecile Renaud, Lucile +bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cécile Renaud, Lucile Desmoulins, Madame de Montmorency, and Charlotte Corday touched it with their dresses; and Du Barry, one of the few women who trembled at the prospect of death--"A minute longer, headsman"--also clung to it! @@ -1169,7 +1134,7 @@ screen once divided it off from the chamber where two prison gendarmes were continually on guard. There, the unfortunate woman pined, in lack of everything, a prey to anxiety, without news of her family, reduced to borrow the linen she required from the kindness of Richard, the porter. -Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorliere, who, "not +Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorlière, who, "not daring to make her a single curtsey for fear of compromising or afflicting her," threw over her shoulders a white linen handkerchief, an hour before her departure to the scaffold. @@ -1178,7 +1143,7 @@ In striking contrast, this dungeon is separated only by a thin partition from the apothecary's room, whither Robespierre--with fractured, hanging jaw, his stockings down over his ankles on account of his varicose sores, still clad in the fine, blue suit that, a few weeks previously, -at the Fete of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous--was hustled, +at the Fête of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous--was hustled, all over blood and mud, like a hideous bundle. Sinister-looking, silent, showing no signs of life save by the twinges @@ -1231,24 +1196,24 @@ to thrive in the sombre, narrow courtyard illustrious for its past scenes of agony! As Paul-Louis Courier used to repeat: _Immane nefas._ [Illustration: THE DAUPHINE SQUARE IN 1780 -_Drawing by Duche de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)_] +_Drawing by Duché de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)_] At the rear of the Palais de Justice was formerly the delightful Dauphine Square, where the first "Public Exhibitions of Youth" were held, the exhibits being works of artists not belonging to the official Academies. The Carnavalet Museum possesses a most amusing pencil -drawing, signed "Duche de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this +drawing, signed "Duché de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this manuscript inscription: "Picturesque view of the Exhibition of paintings and drawings, on the Dauphine Square, the day of the lesser Corpus Christi feast." As a matter of fact, on the Sunday of the Corpus Christi, "when it did not rain," artists had the authorisation--in the morning--to submit their works to the public; if it did rain--and this -was the case in 1783--the fete was adjourned to the following Thursday. +was the case in 1783--the fête was adjourned to the following Thursday. The pictures were exposed in the northern corner of the Square, on white hangings fixed by the shopkeepers in front of their shops; and the Exhibition extended on to the bridge as far as opposite the good Henri's statue. Oudry, Restout, de Troy, Grimoud, Boucher, Nattier, Louis -Tocque, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an +Tocqué, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an excellent study devoted to these Exhibitions of Youth, Monsieur Prosper Dorbec details the works that Chardin took to this ephemeral Salon of the Dauphine Square. In 1728, when he was twenty-nine, he presented @@ -1277,32 +1242,32 @@ THE ISLE OF SAINT-LOUIS The Isle of Saint-Louis is, in some sort, the continuation of the old City. It is a kind of provincial town in Paris. The streets are silent and deserted; there are no shops, no promenaders, no business; a few old -aristocratic mansions, with their tall facades, their emblazoned +aristocratic mansions, with their tall façades, their emblazoned pediments and their severe architecture, alone tell the glorious past of this noble quarter. The finely carved spire of Saint-Louis' Church confers an elegance on -the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orleans and Bethune contain +the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orléans and Bethune contain vast buildings of grand style. In the Rue Saint-Louis, is the admirable Lambert mansion, that masterpiece of the architect Le Vau, which was lost at the gaming-table in one night by Monsieur Dupin de Chenonceaux, the ungrateful pupil of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Le Brun painted the -gallery of the Fetes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses. +gallery of the Fêtes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses. -At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Chatelet +At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Châtelet throned there, Voltaire lived in it, and the Lambert mansion radiated over the length and breadth of dazzled Paris. Then came darker days. The masterpieces of Le Sueur were sold--most of them found their way to the Louvre--and nothing survives of this great -painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaieu placed under +painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaïeu placed under a staircase, and a few panels scattered here and there. Last of all--as if to mark its definitive decadence;--the mansion was occupied by some military-bed purveyors. The fine carvings, sumptuous paintings and gilded arabesques disappeared beneath a thick white dust from cards of wool. In the great gallery, so magnificently decorated by -Le Brun and Van Opstael, mattress-women set up their trestles and +Le Brun and Van Opstaël, mattress-women set up their trestles and seamstresses began to sew sacking. Later, Prince Czartorisky bought this noble dwelling and thus saved it @@ -1314,7 +1279,7 @@ disembarked for the first time in Paris, on the 19th of October 1784, a pale-complexioned youth of resolute brow, with eyes that gazed from their depths on the horizons of the immense town. It was Bonaparte, a pupil from the Brienne School, who had come to continue his studies at -the Ecole Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Caesar had of the +the École Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Cæsar had of the great Paris which was ultimately to acclaim him was the apse of Notre-Dame, the old and venerable Notre-Dame in which he was to be crowned, and round which, in preparation for the coronation day, the 2nd @@ -1334,7 +1299,7 @@ belonging to the seventeenth century: a fine frame for a fine project. In this old quarter of the Isle of Saint-Louis, at the confluence of the Seine's two arms, painters, writers and poets have always dwelt: George -Sand, Baudelaire, Theophile Gautier, Gerard de Nerval, Mery, Daubigny, +Sand, Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Méry, Daubigny, Corot, Barye, Daumier, all lived there for a long time. In the Lauzun mansion, were held the sittings of the hashish smokers' club; and the chipped Virgin that looks from her niche at the corner of the Rue @@ -1360,7 +1325,7 @@ The spectacle is sublime. -[Illustration: BUILDING OF THE PANTHEON +[Illustration: BUILDING OF THE PANTHÉON _Fragment of a water-colour by Saint-Aubin_] @@ -1375,23 +1340,23 @@ We find the arenas of Lutecia, and, above all, the Thermae of Julian, saved from destruction by the taste and initiative of Du Sommerard at the moment when these grandiose ruins, which were being used as coopers' store-rooms, were about to be pulled down, involving in their fall that -jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hotel de Cluny. Quite +jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hôtel de Cluny. Quite recently, remains of Roman substructures have been discovered near the College de France, in the Rue Saint-Jacques and the Saint-Michel Boulevard; but the glory of the left bank of the river was, in particular, the University and the Sorbonne. Little to-day is left of these old walls; but, ten years ago, the hill -of Sainte-Genevieve still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness. +of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness. [Illustration: THE COLLEGE OF LOUIS-LE-GRAND _H. Saffrey, Sculpt._] There was the Rue Saint-Jacques, with its old book-sellers and seventeenth-century houses, and especially--what dread -reminiscences!--the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycee, where +reminiscences!--the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycée, where Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, and the future Marshal Brune had -studied under the mastership of the good Abbe Berardier. I confess that +studied under the mastership of the good Abbé Berardier. I confess that the Louis-le-Grand of our boyhood was black, and gloomy enough also, with its moss-grown playgrounds, its smoky rooms, its punishment chambers up under the roof, where one was frozen in winter and stifled @@ -1404,18 +1369,18 @@ pensive. There was the Sorbonne, with its paved courtyard, where we used to wait, pale, feverish and anxious, for the posting of the small white notice bearing the names of those candidates for the Baccalaureat that were -admitted to the _viva voce_; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea -of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernes, while we blessed the +admitted to the _vivâ voce_; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea +of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernès, while we blessed the gods to have given us as examiner the witty and indulgent Monsieur -Mezieres, who, at least for his part, has not grown old. +Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old. [Illustration: THE INNER COURTYARD OF THE ECOLE POLYTECHNIQUE _Etching by Martial_] Further on, in the rear of Sainte-Barbe, we come to the Rue de la -Montagne-Sainte-Genevieve, alive and teeming with its old mansions +Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève, alive and teeming with its old mansions converted into dispensaries or business premises, its petty trades, its -popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated Ecole +popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated École Polytechnique, dear to all Parisians, which adds its note of cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter. @@ -1423,7 +1388,7 @@ cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter. _Drawn by A. Maignan_] Quite near there is the Rue Clovis, where formerly stood the Abbey of -Sainte-Genevieve, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret +Sainte-Geneviève, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret the part that has disappeared. In this Rue Clovis may be seen, crumbling to decay and half-buried under climbing plants--lichens, ivy, sage and moss--a big side of a primitive-looking wall, a fragment of the @@ -1436,7 +1401,7 @@ Rue Clovis. Illustrious dead were buried there: Pascal, Racine, Boileau. A crime was also committed in it. On the 3rd of January 1858, the first day of the novena of -Sainte-Genevieve, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the +Sainte-Geneviève, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the church, dreadful cries were heard: "They have just murdered Monseigneur," and soon a man of haggard looks, clad in black, with blood-red hands, was seen on the Square in the grasp of some policemen @@ -1493,7 +1458,7 @@ three-compartment window painting, which masterpiece now adorns the chapel of the Crucifix, "92 livres 10 sols, including the leading and iron trellis." -[Illustration: THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIEVE IN 1866 +[Illustration: THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE IN 1866 _Drawn by A. Maignan_] It is one of the retreats for poetry and devotion so common in Paris, @@ -1501,18 +1466,18 @@ and yet ofttimes so unsuspected amid the city's noise; and one never forgets the impression produced when leaving the Latin Quarter, with its laughter and songs, and plunging suddenly into this deserted cloister full of dream and melancholy, though so close to the sunny, busy square -of the Pantheon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the -people and the army, an actor at the Odeon Theatre, Eric Besnard, +of the Panthéon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the +people and the army, an actor at the Odéon Theatre, Eric Besnard, replaced once more the inscription: "_To her great men the grateful mother country_" on the fine temple built by Soufflot, which the -Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Genevieve. +Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Geneviève. -[Illustration: THE PANTHEON, IN BUILDING] +[Illustration: THE PANTHÉON, IN BUILDING] -The Pantheon is certainly the one Parisian building which has been +The Panthéon is certainly the one Parisian building which has been most often baptized and re-baptized. Constructed in consequence of a vow made by Louis XV. when ill at Metz, on the gardens belonging to the -original Abbey of Sainte-Genevieve, the money that paid for it was +original Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, the money that paid for it was derived from a portion of the funds raised by three lotteries drawn every month in Paris. @@ -1528,22 +1493,22 @@ could not survive so many tragic emotions. He died in 1781 without finishing his undertaking. In 1791, the constituent Assembly set apart for the "Honouring of Great -Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Genevieve; and +Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Geneviève; and Mirabeau's body was conveyed thither in triumph "to the sounds of trombone and gong, whose notes, by the intensity with which they were produced, tore the bowels and harrowed the heart," says a chronicle of the time. -[Illustration: PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIEVE +[Illustration: PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE _Meunier, fecit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] The great tribune was destined to make but a short stay in the -Pantheon,--this was the name given to the secularised church--for on the -27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chenier, and after +Panthéon,--this was the name given to the secularised church--for on the +27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chénier, and after study of the documents found in the iron safe, documents that left no doubt as to "the great treason of the Count de Mirabeau," the Convention, "considering that a man cannot be great without virtue, -decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Pantheon, and +decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Panthéon, and that those of Marat should be buried there." The sentence was carried out by night, and the "virtuous" Marat took the place of Mirabeau; not for long, however, since, some months later, Marat's body, @@ -1551,23 +1516,23 @@ for long, however, since, some months later, Marat's body, small graveyard belonging to Saint-Etienne-du-Mont. Voltaire and Rousseau were, in their turn, triumphantly interred. Voltaire's body, after remaining all night in the ruins of the Bastille, had been brought -to the Pantheon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in +to the Panthéon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in antique style through David's care, and by the actors and actresses of -the Theatre Francais in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of +the Théâtre Français in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of the unfortunate Calas walked behind, close to the torn flag of the -Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fete, +Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fête, its organisers had provided for everything except for the weather. A dreadful storm descended on the heads of those composing the procession: -Merope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the +Mérope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the names of Politics, the Arts, and Agriculture, were wet to the skin; and, covered with mud and in wretched plight, were compelled to huddle into cabs or shelter themselves under umbrellas. And thus it was that, on the 12th of July 1791, Voltaire made his entry -into the Pantheon. +into the Panthéon. [Illustration: THE APOTHEOSIS OF JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU -His translation to the Pantheon on the 11th of October 1794 +His translation to the Panthéon on the 11th of October 1794 _Girardet, inv. et del._] Jean-Jacques Rousseau followed him there on the 11th of October 1794; @@ -1577,7 +1542,7 @@ preceding night on the basin of the Tuileries, transformed for the occasion into an "Isle of Poplars." While yet not so popular as that of Voltaire, his triumph was "one of sensitive souls," and "the man of nature" was interred according to the rites he had himself prescribed. -Later, Napoleon peopled the Pantheon with the shades of obscure senators +Later, Napoleon peopled the Panthéon with the shades of obscure senators and some few artists, admirals, and generals. Subsequently, the Second Republic made a definitive assignment of the edifice to the cult of great men; and there, on a sunny day, the 3rd of May 1885, Victor Hugo's @@ -1587,32 +1552,32 @@ under the Arc de Triomphe, which he had so nobly sung. Since then, Baudin, President Carnot, La Tour d'Auvergne have been buried there; and an admirable decoration, the work of our best contemporary artists, covers the vast walls of this necropolis. Puvis de Chavannes, Humbert, -Henri-Levy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; +Henri-Lévy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; and, last of all, Edouard Detaille, surpassing himself, has, in an admirable soaring of art, created on the canvas--in Homeric proportions--a mad rush of horses and riders, the old cavaliers of the Republic and the Empire, towards the radiant image of the Motherland, with standards conquered from the enemy by their dauntless heroism. -Around the Pantheon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of +Around the Panthéon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of little streets, poor and crowded together, once inhabited by those that attended the schools, so numerous in that quarter of the Sorbonne. The Rue des Carmes remains to us as a perfect specimen of the past, with its houses whose shaking walls support each other, its crumbling -facades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the +façades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the relics of a vanished splendour, the entrance to two important colleges, to-day dwindled down into dens of misery, into lodgings of the poor. Narrow and uneven, the Rue des Carmes ascends toilingly between shops whose paint has been streaked by storms, faded by dust and wind; and yet it continues to be full of charm and poetry, this sorry-looking street, -crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Pantheon, and +crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Panthéon, and framing at the bottom, with its two lines of dingy houses, mean hotels, and dancing-rooms, the delicate and elegant spire of Notre-Dame aloft on the horizon of the clear sky. It was at the corner of this Rue des Carmes and the Rue des Sept-Voies, -not far from Sainte-Genevieve's church, that, at seven o'clock in the +not far from Sainte-Geneviève's church, that, at seven o'clock in the evening of the 9th of March 1804, George Cadoudal sprang into the cab that was to take him to the fresh hiding-place which his friends had prepared for him in the house of Caron, the royalist perfumer of the Rue @@ -1631,11 +1596,11 @@ the handle were not the English hall-mark. "I cannot say," he replied, "but I can assure you that I have not had it[1] hall-marked in France." [Illustration: THE LUXEMBOURG, ABOUT 1790 -_Marechal, del._ (National Library)] +_Maréchal, del._ (National Library)] Quite near, is the Luxembourg, both palace and prison, the Luxembourg, -where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fetes, where Gaston -d'Orleans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, +where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fêtes, where Gaston +d'Orléans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, sighing for the handsome Lauzun; where also the Count de Provence so cleverly prepared, with Monsieur d'Avaray, his escape from France, on the same evening that Louis XVI. and Marie-Antoinette made such bad @@ -1648,7 +1613,7 @@ later, Robespierre was brought as a prisoner, and where, "for want of room," Hally, the porter, refused to receive him; the Luxembourg where, after Thermidor, the artist David painted, from, his dungeon, the shady walk in which he could see his children playing at ball; the -Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fetes; the +Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fêtes; the Luxembourg, too, of Nodier, of Saint-Beuve, of Murger, of Michelet, of the students, of the workers of Bohemia, of the songs of the worthy Nadaud and Mimi Pinson, near to Bullier's and the Lilac Closerie and @@ -1656,7 +1621,7 @@ also to the Observatory and the ill-omened wall "scored with bullets" where Marshal Ney fell. Everywhere, the same mingling of mirth and sorrow, of laughter and blood. The reason is that each street, each cross-road, almost each house has seen some dark procession pass by or -some victorious fete celebrated. +some victorious fête celebrated. [Illustration: FRATERNAL SUPPERS IN THE SECTIONS OF PARIS On the 11th, 12th, and 13th of May 1793, or the 21st, 22nd, and 23rd of @@ -1680,7 +1645,7 @@ first story, on the wall bearing even now the red marks of the blood-dripping sabres used by the slayers, may be read the signatures of the fair prisoners who, day after day, in terrified anxiety, waited, each evening, for the fatal order to appear before the Tribunal: -Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Josephine de +Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Joséphine de Beauharnais. At this date, Tallien, himself suspected and followed by a band of spies, prowled from eve till morn round the sinister prison in which the woman he loved was confined. One day, on his table, 17 Rue de @@ -1701,7 +1666,7 @@ country; the mother country for him was the woman he worshipped. Mad with love and rage, rousing against Robespierre every rancour, terror, and hatred, he spent the night and the day of the 8th in preparing the dreadful and tragical sitting of the 9th of Thermidor, which was a -merciless duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouche, to +merciless duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouché, to Collot d'Herbois as to Durand-Maillane and Louchet, to Cambon as to Vadier, to Thuriot as to Legendre, to the few remaining Dantonists as to the eternal tremblers of the Marais; then, springing to the rostrum with @@ -1712,12 +1677,12 @@ dread decree outlawing and condemning to the guillotine those who themselves for two years had been mowing down the members of the Convention. -[Illustration: FETE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, +[Illustration: FÊTE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, ANNO VII. Bonaparte hands to the Directory the treaty of Campo-Formio] -Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Theroigne de -Mericourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot +Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Théroigne de +Méricourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot dwelt at No. 12, the appearance of which has hardly changed since. If he were to come back and wander about these parts, Jean-Jacques Rousseau would again find almost intact the home of her he chiefly loved, quite @@ -1744,17 +1709,17 @@ over his corpse. Poison had made an end of this noble life of work, glory, and misery. Aloft in the same quiet quarter, Saint-Sulpice rears its two unequal -towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aerial telegraph. +towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aërial telegraph. It was in the fine vestry of this imposing church, which has preserved its admirable wood-carvings, that Camille Desmoulins signed the marriage register, when, on the 29th of December 1790, he married his adored Lucile Duplessis. The marriage was a veritable romance; and all Paris crowded to the gates of Saint-Sulpice to see the procession go by. The bride and bridegroom were congratulated; and cheers were given for the -witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery, Petion, +witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery, Pétion, Mercier, and Robespierre. Then, the wedding party ascended the Rue de -Conde to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Theatre -Francois (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odeon), on the third floor. There, on +Condé to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Théâtre +François (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odéon), on the third floor. There, on the 20th of March 1794, the day of his mother's death, he was arrested, bound like a malefactor, and thence was taken to the Luxembourg hard by. On the 5th of April, Camille was executed amid the shouts of the people @@ -1762,8 +1727,8 @@ who had so flattered him. Lucile followed him to the scaffold a week later! They had sworn to love each other in life and death.... The idyll finished in blood. -Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Ferou, the Rue -Cassette, the Rue Garanciere, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue +Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Férou, the Rue +Cassette, the Rue Garancière, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue Madame, with their ancient names and provincial aspect, devout and silent quarters of monastic and semi-mysterious life, and, for this reason, full of infinite charm. @@ -1786,18 +1751,18 @@ says Chateaubriand in his _Memoirs from beyond the Grave_. Old mansions are numerous. In the Rue de Varenne alone, each portal awakes a remembrance of the -most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Conde, -Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tesse, Bethune-Sully, Montmorency, -Rouge, Segur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of +most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Condé, +Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tessé, Béthune-Sully, Montmorency, +Rougé, Ségur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of these aristocratic dwellings were certainly found disguised, dressed up as horse-dealers, drovers, peasants, workmen, in the _Golden Cup_ hostelry at the corner of the Rue de Varenne, which was celebrated in the history of the Chouannerie: the heroes of _Tournebut_, my dear -friend Lenotre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, +friend Lenôtre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, himself filled with enthusiasm, knows how to inspire his reader with the same. It was one of the meeting-places used by the sworn companions of George Cadoudal, who hid there several times; and there, too, the -royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendemiaire, Anno IV., their +royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendémiaire, Anno IV., their arrangements relative to the abduction of the Convention. At some little distance, in the Rue Canettes, another rendezvous @@ -1806,17 +1771,17 @@ where a famous hiding-place was used. Hyde de Neuville tells us, in his picturesque memoirs, that one needed only to slip behind the picture, serving as signboard to the perfumery--a picture overhanging the street--then to draw over one the shutter of the neighbouring chamber, -for all the police Fouche employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, +for all the police Fouché employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, as they frequently did, the house through and through. -Next, we come upon the Odeon--the old Odeon--still standing on its base, +Next, we come upon the Odéon--the old Odéon--still standing on its base, in spite of the countless jests levelled at it, with its famous galleries, where, for many a long year, saunterers have gone to have a look at the last productions of contemporary literature. How often have we lingered in front of the old books or new ones, turning over the leaves, or reading between two pages yet uncut? -It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odeon galleries, the +It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odéon galleries, the most amiable of publishers, Ernest Flammarion, installed himself in partnership with Ch. Marpon; both of them indefatigable workers, benevolent and witty, they spent treasures of contrivance to get into @@ -1837,11 +1802,11 @@ strong for their feelings," he murmurs by way of excuse, and, philosophically, he smiles and passes these petty larcenies to his profit and loss account. -[Illustration: THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MEDECINE IN 1866 +[Illustration: THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MÉDECINE IN 1866 House where Marat was assassinated _Drawn by A. Maignan_] -Along the Rue de l'Ecole-de-Medecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, +Along the Rue de l'École-de-Médecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, which was formerly the refectory of the Franciscan monastery, we reach the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the cutting of which did away with so many precious relics; among others, the abode where Marat was assassinated, @@ -1860,7 +1825,7 @@ work was done, with his hands crossed behind the skirts of his long grey overcoat, and walk quietly back to his home, like a worthy clerk quitting his office, coughing the while, for he had a delicate chest. -[Illustration: THE GALLERY OF THE ODEON (RUE ROTROU)] +[Illustration: THE GALLERY OF THE ODÉON (RUE ROTROU)] Together with the present presbytery, they form the sole extant witnesses of that dreadful butchery. @@ -1877,7 +1842,7 @@ of the Palais-Royal, of the _Lanterne_, the _Revolutions of France and Brabant_, the _Brissot unmasked_; the Camille of the "_Vieux Cordelier_," that masterpiece of wit and courage, in which he dared to speak of clemency to Robespierre and of respect for his fellows to the -ignoble Hebert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue +ignoble Hébert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue stands to-day; we regret the house. [Illustration: THE ROHAN COURTYARD IN 1901 @@ -1908,17 +1873,17 @@ advertisement, "Small hands required for flowers and feathers," beside a plate pointing out the address of the newspaper, _Heaven_, on the fourth floor, door to the left! -The Rue de l'Ancienne Comedie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des -Fosses-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine +The Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des +Fossés-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine in a cellar. At No. 14, in the courtyard of an old mansion occupied by a -wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Theatre-Francais. +wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Théâtre-Français. The large entrance door, the staircases leading to the actors' private rooms, the slanting pit of the hall, and even the friezes are still in existence. The King's Comedians played there, on April 18th, 1689, -_Phedre_ and the _Medecin malgre lui_, and performed in the same +_Phèdre_ and the _Médecin malgré lui_, and performed in the same building until 1770. -The encyclopaedists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet +The encyclopædists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet opposite at the Procope coffee-house, the handsome iron balcony of which is yet subsisting, from where it was so agreeable to hobnob with the balcony of the Comedy. The Procope coffee-house, celebrated in the @@ -1930,10 +1895,10 @@ bursts of his admirable eloquence. The great orator in 1859 lived at No. to be found there. His small room afforded a fine view over the roofs of Paris, and also remains as it was then. -Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Chateau, on the 23rd of December +Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Château, on the 23rd of December 1850, two poor women were assassinated. One of them, Mademoiselle Ribault, a designer on the staff of the _Petit Courrier des Dames_, -edited by Monsieur Thiery, had the strength to write on a screen with a +edited by Monsieur Thiéry, had the strength to write on a screen with a finger dipped in her own blood: "The assassin is the clerk of M. Thi...." This clerk, Laforcade, was arrested the next day. @@ -1941,17 +1906,17 @@ How many delightful nooks besides, hardly known by Parisians, are to be met with on the left bank of the river! [Illustration: THE RUE VISCONTI -_Water-colour by F. Leon_] +_Water-colour by F. Léon_] Not all have disappeared for ever of those vast melancholy gardens, those hoary mansions buried in streets where the grass grows, and whose -noble but gloomy facades would never cause one to suspect the riches -they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hotel des Invalides. +noble but gloomy façades would never cause one to suspect the riches +they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hôtel des Invalides. Others are in the Rue Vanneau, the Rue Bellechasse, the Rue de Varenne, the Rue Saint-Guillaume, the Rue Bonaparte; some also in the Rue Visconti, which dark narrow lane possesses illustrious souvenirs. The -famous Champmesle, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes -mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pre-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine +famous Champmeslé, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes +mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pré-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine died there in 1697. This house, which bears the number 21, is to-day a girls' boarding-school! And last of all, at No. 17 the great Balzac established the printing-press that ruined him, and that later became @@ -1963,7 +1928,7 @@ All these houses, so pregnant with history, are still visible; yet how few Parisians are acquainted with them! [Illustration: ALFRED DE MUSSET AT 23 YEARS OF AGE -_Drawn by Lepaulle_ (Pigoreau Collection)] +_Drawn by Lépaulle_ (Pigoreau Collection)] On the Voltaire Quay lived Vivant, Denon, Ingres, Alfred de Musset, Judge Perrault, Chamillard, Gluck, and Voltaire himself who died there, @@ -1971,14 +1936,14 @@ and whose corpse, wrapped in a dressing-gown and held up by straps, like a traveller asleep, started by night in a travelling-coach, on the 30th of May 1778, from the courtyard of Monsieur de Villette's mansion, with its entrance still in the Rue de Beaune, to be buried outside Paris at -the Abbey of Scellieres in Champagne. +the Abbey of Scellières in Champagne. The flat in which Voltaire passed away has not been altered, and its decoration has remained almost intact, with its wall mirrors, its painted ceilings, and its small mirrored salons contrived in the thick walls. -[Illustration: THE FACADE OF THE INSTITUTE +[Illustration: THE FAÇADE OF THE INSTITUTE _From an original drawing of the Revolutionary period_ (Carnavalet Museum)] @@ -2004,7 +1969,7 @@ presence--bars of music, verses, drawings, writings of varied nature. I confess I should not dare to reproduce, even expurgated, the inscriptions which confinement and absence from Paris streets and acquaintance have suggested to many an admirable composer of to-day. -Saint-Saens would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be +Saint-Saëns would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be troubled, our great and witty Massenet would surely refuse to accept the paternity of his vigorous apostrophes, and--I will be discreet; never mind--it's something very enjoyable, very funny, and quite in the @@ -2014,15 +1979,15 @@ Between the Mint and the lion-poodle of the Institute (from the shelter of which, if we are to believe his delightful Memoirs, Alexandre Dumas contributed so valiantly to the triumph of the 1830 Revolution) nestles a small, provincial-looking Square; Madame Permon, mother of the future -Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantes, lived there until the Revolution. In +Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantès, lived there until the Revolution. In a small garret of the same house, at the left corner, on the third -floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the Ecole +floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the École Militaire. The fine, carved wainscotings are still round the walls of the drawing-room on the ground floor, overlooking the Seine, which the -Caesar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the +Cæsar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the marble chimney-piece is in its old place; at it he would come and dry his big patched boots that "smoked again," the talkative Madame -d'Abrantes tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant +d'Abrantès tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant might, from the window, see opposite him the palace whence, for a number of years, he was to conqueringly dispose of the destinies of the dazzled world. @@ -2041,17 +2006,17 @@ customs, habits, and peculiar language. And what a splendid frame is round this odd little world seen from the Pont des Arts! [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE LOUVRE QUAY -_Noel, pinxit_] +_Noël, pinxit_] On the one bank, the Louvre, the green foliage of the Tuileries, and the -Champs-Elysees, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of +Champs-Elysées, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of Chaillot on the horizon; on the other, all old Paris, a series of monuments haloed with souvenirs--the Palais de Justice, the Conciergerie, the Sainte-Chapelle, Notre-Dame; the churches of Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois, Saint-Gervais, Saint-Paul; the Pointe de la -Cite. +Cité. -[Illustration: PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITE +[Illustration: PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITÉ _Photographed by Richebourg_] At night, these noble, suggestive silhouettes assume a still more @@ -2072,7 +2037,7 @@ Rue Mazarine--we discover in the Rue Contrescarpe-Dauphine--at present the Rue Mazet--the remains of the old White Horse Inn. The stables, with their ancient mangers and quaint eaves, still exist. They date back to Louis XIV. In that time, every week the huge inn-yard was filled with -travellers going to Orleans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in +travellers going to Orléans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in a cloud of dust, amidst crackings of whip, trumpetings, adieus, and shakings of handkerchiefs; horses pranced, women wept, dogs barked, postilions swore. To-day the animation has disappeared, but the scene @@ -2083,12 +2048,12 @@ Manon[2] alighted from the diligence!" The neighbouring house was once the Magny restaurant, at which those celebrated dinners were given that Goncourt speaks of so often in his Memoirs, dinners shared by Renan, Sainte-Beuve, Georges Sand, Flaubert, -Theophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others. +Théophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others. -Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine--where Moliere and his +Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine--where Molière and his company played--with the Rue de Seine, let us go through the Passage du Pont-Neuf, occupying the site of the ancient entrance to the theatre, -and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel _Therese Raquin_. +and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel _Thérèse Raquin_. It is a typical nook--sordid, dingy, and malodorous, but strangely attractive, with its fried-potato sellers and Italian modellers. The @@ -2103,29 +2068,29 @@ Institute, and it is impossible to walk along the interminable black-looking wall enclosing it, on the side of the Rue Mazarine, without thinking of the painful paragraph in the preface of the _Fils Naturel_, wherein the younger Dumas, speaking of his childhood, recalls -the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odeon, of +the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odéon, of _Charles VI. chez ses grands vassaux_, on the 20th of October 1831. The evening had been a stormy one, and the success of the play was doubtful. Consequently, a continuation of their poverty was to be expected. Alexandre Dumas had heavy burdens to support--his mother, a household, a child. He had to live himself and to keep his family on the -meagre salary his situation under the Duke d'Orleans procured him. It +meagre salary his situation under the Duke d'Orléans procured him. It was not of his talents but of his star that he doubted; and the younger Dumas always remembered his father's broad shadow cast by the moon on the dark, gloomy wall of the Institute, and himself timidly guessing at his father's anxieties and endeavouring, with his little eight-year-old legs, to follow and keep up with the studies of the good-natured giant. -[Illustration: THE RUE DES PRETRES-SAINT-SEVERIN IN 1866 +[Illustration: THE RUE DES PRÊTRES-SAINT-SÉVERIN IN 1866 _Drawn by A. Maignan_] -It was in the Rue Guenegaud, in the Hotel Britannique, that Madame +It was in the Rue Guénégaud, in the Hôtel Britannique, that Madame Roland took up her quarters in 1791. There, joyous and confident in the future, she opened her political _salon_. What a pleasure for the little Manon to show to all the Pont-Neuf neighbourhood, where her childhood had been spent, that she had become a lady and received people of mark. -Brissot, Buzot, Petion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to +Brissot, Buzot, Pétion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to come, between two sittings, and talk at this amiable woman's house; and I fancy what attracted them was far more the pretty Parisian's qualities than the virtues of the austere husband, who must have been a great @@ -2140,7 +2105,7 @@ some ancient abodes; but it has lost the singular house called the _Red Castle_, or more prosaically, "the Guillotine." In what was, during the seventeenth century, a sumptuous dwelling--the -mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrees--behind the huge, tall front +mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrées--behind the huge, tall front steps at the back of the courtyard, was the dingy, smoky habitation, stinking of wine, dirt, debauch, and vice. @@ -2153,7 +2118,7 @@ inhabitants were similar; a prison population--"bestiality in all its horror," as Mephistopheles sings in the _Damnation of Faust_. Recent building and sanitary improvements have done away with the "Red Castle." -The Rue Saint-Severin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the +The Rue Saint-Séverin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the ancient Gothic church--"that flora of stone"--one of the most curious perhaps in Paris; one of those that best preserve the traces of a past of art, devotion, and prayer. @@ -2161,8 +2126,8 @@ of art, devotion, and prayer. The sublime artists who, in several centuries, knew how to create the forest of fine carvings with which the apse is adorned, have, alas! left but sorry successors. By the side of old painted glass windows, brought -from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Pres, other cold, modern stained -windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Severin's the religious, +from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, other cold, modern stained +windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Séverin's the religious, poetical mysteriousness, the inviting half-obscurity that appeal to the soul of the believer; and their crude light renders only too visible the marks of successive mutilations inflicted on this fine church. In @@ -2181,12 +2146,12 @@ or stolen in Paris is spent there. [Illustration: THE PASSAGE DES PATRIARCHES _Etching by Martial_] -Saint-Medard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint +Saint-Médard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint Square, and its round tower at the end of the Rue Monge and the corner of the Rue Mouffetard. It is a gloomy, rat-gnawed, poverty-stricken church, looking as if worn-out with age; and is blocked in by old houses covered with gaudy-coloured advertisements. It has left, far behind in -the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Paris in it performed its +the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Pâris in it performed its miracles, when the townsfolk and courtfolk crowded in the small graveyard, a door of which still exists, the one perhaps whereon was written the famous couplet:-- @@ -2205,8 +2170,8 @@ middle of the road; carriage traffic is rare. Housewives gossip on their doorsteps, people live together--and in the street. The Passage des Patriarches, which opens at No. 99, was famous in days of yore. The Calvinists, who used to preach there, had bloody quarrels with the -Catholics of Saint-Medard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, -melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-a-brac dealers, old-iron sellers, +Catholics of Saint-Médard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, +melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-à -brac dealers, old-iron sellers, and petty hucksters; and smells of rags, old lead, and cauliflower! [Illustration: THE RUE GALANDE @@ -2240,8 +2205,8 @@ piece of decoration to some retrospective museum of surgery. At the corner of the Colbert Mansion _Etching by Martial_] -Not far from this spot, the Rue Maitre-Albert--which up to 1844 was -called the Rue Perdue--owes its present name to the Dominican Maitre +Not far from this spot, the Rue Maître-Albert--which up to 1844 was +called the Rue Perdue--owes its present name to the Dominican Maître Albert who, in the thirteenth century, taught in the open air in Maubert Square. It contains curious houses, to-day dens for tramps, who spend the night in them. In 1819, an old negro of miserable appearance @@ -2265,14 +2230,14 @@ _Drawn by Heidbrendk_ (Carnavalet Museum)] The two churches nearest the spot are those of Saint-Nicolas-du-Chardonneret and Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. Connected with the former is a dismal little seminary, in which, under the guidance of -the Abbe Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through +the Abbé Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through part of his theological studies. Every one should read in the _Souvenirs of my Childhood and Youth_ the admirable pages this marvellous writer has devoted to his stay in this studious home. "The parish, which derived its name from the field of thistles well known of the students at the Paris University in the Middle Ages, was then the centre of a rich quarter inhabited chiefly by the legal profession. The -boarding-school _regime_ weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a +boarding-school _régime_ weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a young man from Coutances, I think, like myself, full of enthusiasm, and of excellent heart, held himself aloof, refused to reconcile himself, and died. The Savoy students showed themselves still less @@ -2296,7 +2261,7 @@ memory! The church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is set apart for the Greek ritual. Enclosed on its sides and rear by the ancient buildings of the -Hotel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a +Hôtel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a stopped-up well with meagre weeds growing from its border-stones seems to guard the door, which opens on a dirty, rubbish-strewn courtyard where a few half-starved fowls peck their scanty meal. It is a nook of @@ -2337,7 +2302,7 @@ railings his gluttonous trunk in search of rolls. The bear-pit has not changed; and the crowd of idlers continue to tempt the eternal "Martin" to climb up the same tree. Still to the noisy children the delightful labyrinth offers its capricious meandering; and -the cedar of Lebanon (_Cedrus Libani_) [Linnaeus], which tradition tells +the cedar of Lebanon (_Cedrus Libani_) [Linnæus], which tradition tells us Monsieur Jussieu brought back in his hat, has not ceased to wave its ample branches over dreamers, loungers, workers, or grisette--the grisette that comes and sits beneath its venerable shade to read the @@ -2366,7 +2331,7 @@ the dust of the past! To-day, alas! these rooms, flowering with sculpture, are closed and forsaken; a part of their wainscoting has disappeared.... Where have decorations so pleasing gone?... Why these everlasting, culpable mutilations, which I know are a grief to Monsieur -Perier, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of +Périer, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of butterflies are now transferred to the vast and sumptuous central hall of the new pavilion devoted to natural history. I liked them better in the charming rooms which once contained them and suited them so well! @@ -2414,46 +2379,46 @@ round it: ivy, birthwort honeysuckle, lianes of all kinds caparisoned it with verdure. They are carpets, cascades of glossy green, shining together: a nosegay of leaves in a garden. -Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpetriere with its walls of evil -memory, the Salpetriere of the September massacres, the Salpetriere +Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpêtrière with its walls of evil +memory, the Salpêtrière of the September massacres, the Salpêtrière whence Madame de Lamotte so easily escaped after her condemnation; with its broad gardens and its ugly covered-yards surrounded by railings, where, as De Goncourt said, "Women madder than their fellows" are confined. The dome, visible from everywhere, commands, like a lighthouse -of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bievre, the poor, sacrificed -river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bievre, streaked with +of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bièvre, the poor, sacrificed +river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bièvre, streaked with tannery acids, reddened by skins of sheep recently flayed that steep in -it; the Bievre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so +it; the Bièvre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so picturesquely, amidst starch factories, fellmongers' stores and other works, after traversing the tiny gardens of Gentilly and creating the -illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-a-Mulard. +illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-à -Mulard. Gone is the time when this ill-starred river washed the banks of smiling meadows and reflected the willows in its clear waters. Tamed, domesticated, adapted to tasks of every sort, unceasingly used by tanners, curriers, tawers, dyers, it flows dirty and putrid! To follow -it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Pres must be ascended, and +it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Prés must be ascended, and entrance made into the Rue de Tolbiac. There, through a gate, it enters a dark, dismal passage, whence it will issue only to glide in a kind of sinister-looking canal between black, repulsive manufactories. Here and there, along the scanty banks, a few washerwomen have fixed their tubs on a level with the water, and sing as they dolly their linen; elsewhere, wretched urchins endeavour to catch a stray fish that might -have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bievre disappears +have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bièvre disappears once again and this time underground, coming to view afresh in the Rue des Gobelins. At this spot, some rare traces of a glorious past are discovered. The ancient houses have many of them remained. But how often transformed! The owners of works and of shops, after enslaving the river, have taken possession of the houses bordering it. -[Illustration: THE RUE DE BIEVRE +[Illustration: THE RUE DE BIÈVRE _Drawn by Heidbrendk_] Offices, warehouses, leather stores have invaded the noble mansions of -the sixteenth century, and the Bievre winds, as if ashamed, through poor +the sixteenth century, and the Bièvre winds, as if ashamed, through poor gardens, like it, fallen from their antique splendour. -[Illustration: THE BIEVRE TANNERIES +[Illustration: THE BIÈVRE TANNERIES _Etching by Martial_] Further on, there are more works and tanneries, black corners mean and @@ -2464,7 +2429,7 @@ heavy wheels, or washes ghastly offal, amidst a smell as of barege. Finally, it runs to earth once more beneath the Hospital Boulevard, within evil-smelling, dark holes. -But before the last fall, the Bievre passes through an astonishingly +But before the last fall, the Bièvre passes through an astonishingly strange lane, one of the oddest in this odd quarter: the Ruelle des Gobelins. It flows as a stream of red, green, and yellow tints, between patched-up, mouldy, tumble-down houses, in an odour of ammonia. And yet, @@ -2489,11 +2454,11 @@ of Paris. At the corner of the Ruelle des Peupliers, faggot-dealers have set up their huts; and hovels line strange streets made with the clearings of other streets. -[Illustration: THE BIEVRE ABOUT 1900--THE VALENCE MILL-RACE +[Illustration: THE BIÈVRE ABOUT 1900--THE VALENCE MILL-RACE _Schaan, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] Once, these spacious grounds were one stretch of flower gardens and -market gardens watered by the Bievre. +market gardens watered by the Bièvre. In a most interesting book, somewhat forgotten now, Alfred Delvau tells us much of the former history, under Louis-Philippe, of the @@ -2501,7 +2466,7 @@ Saint-Marceau faubourg, the Butte-aux-Cailles, the Rue Croulebarde, and also the Rue du Champ-de-l'Alouette, in which last street the "Shepherdess of Ivry" was murdered, the crime by its bizarre character producing a deep impression in the Capital in 1827. It was a -public-house waiter, Honore Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimee Millot +public-house waiter, Honoré Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimée Millot by name; she, as a keeper of goats, was popular at Ivry. Every day, she was to be seen, with a large straw hat on her head and a book in her hand, tending her mistress's goats. The "Shepherdess of Ivry" she was @@ -2516,9 +2481,9 @@ recently arrived at the King's Garden was neglected for the Ivry drama. On the 27th of July, Ulbach, who seems to have been half-mad, was condemned to death; and, at four o'clock in the evening on the 10th of -September, he was executed on the Greve Square. +September, he was executed on the Grève Square. -A Municipal Creche, in the Rue des Gobelins, occupies, at No. 3, a +A Municipal Crèche, in the Rue des Gobelins, occupies, at No. 3, a fine Louis XIII. mansion, once inhabited by the Marquis of Saint-Mesme, a lieutenant-general and the husband of Elizabeth Gobelin, close to a handsome lordly-looking building which in the quarter bears the name of @@ -2544,14 +2509,14 @@ Court. He excelled in combining business and pleasure. An illustrious marriage seemed to him essential to people's forgetting his low origin and the rapid rise of his fortunes. He married the "fair Limeuil," one of the most seductive beauties of the Queen's flying squadron--"All of -them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantome. This +them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantôme. This attractive person had been successively courted by the most noble lords -of the Court before effecting the conquest of Conde, by whom she had a +of the Court before effecting the conquest of Condé, by whom she had a child. At Dijon, during one of the Queen's receptions, Mademoiselle de Limeuil was taken ill and was delivered of a boy. "It is inexplicable," -writes Mezeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so +writes Mézeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so miscalculated." There was a scandal; the Queen Mother was indignant; the -fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Conde who was still amorous, succeeded +fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Condé who was still amorous, succeeded in effecting her escape. The Protestants, however, were on the watch, and induced their leader to give up his too compromising mistress. Then it was that Scipio Sardini came forward, the richest man of the period, @@ -2559,7 +2524,7 @@ the King's banker, as also the nobles' and clergy's. He managed to get himself accepted; the marriage took place; and he settled in this pretty mansion that we still admire, and that is mentioned by Sauval as one of the most beautiful in Paris, amidst vineyards, orchards, and fields -bordering on the Bievre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of +bordering on the Bièvre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of art, books and flowers, and died there about 1609. As early as 1636, the mansion was converted into a hospital, which in 1742 was once more transformed, this time into a bakery. To-day, it is the Bakery of the @@ -2570,9 +2535,9 @@ bank of the river, respectfully pause on the Stockade Bridge, close to the small monument erected to the famous sculptor Barye by his admirers,--to the great Barye who, misunderstood and mocked, sold up by his creditors, often came in the evening, after leaving his modest -studio on the Celestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this +studio on the Célestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this same place before the splendid panorama of Paris crowned by the grand -silhouette of the Pantheon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views. +silhouette of the Panthéon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views. * * * * * @@ -2630,7 +2595,7 @@ Saint-Paul mansion, the Tournelles palace--and the soil of the Louviers Isle, joined to the river bank in 1843, serve as a natural transition from the old to modern Paris. -[Illustration: THE LESDIGUIERES MANSION] +[Illustration: THE LESDIGUIÈRES MANSION] Notwithstanding its warlike name, the Arsenal quarter is one of the most peaceful parts of the Capital. Centuries ago, the palaces disappeared @@ -2644,12 +2609,12 @@ cod-liver oil and woollen socks to poor, suffering children; the Rue des Lions-Saint-Paul; the Rue Beautreillis, where Victorien Sardou was born; near there the great Balzac dwelt. "I was then living," he says in his admirable _Facino Cane_, "in a small street you probably don't know, -the Rue de Lesdiguieres. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite +the Rue de Lesdiguières. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite a fountain near the Place de la Bastille, and issues in the Rue de la Cerisaie. Love of knowledge had driven me into a garret, where I worked during the night, and spent the day in a neighbouring library, that of _Monsieur_. When it was fine, I took rare walks on the Bourdon -Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguieres still exists in part; on the +Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguières still exists in part; on the site occupied by Nos. 8 and 10, could be seen, a few years ago, one of the containing walls of the Bastille; narrow houses have been stuck against it; and, at No. 10, it is the very wall of the old Parisian @@ -2682,16 +2647,16 @@ in addition...! Let us add that the curators--Henri Martin, so learned and obliging, Funck-Brentano, the exquisite historian of the Bastille, the picturesque -relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugene Muller are not only +relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugène Muller are not only scholars needing no praise but most courteous and genial men--and you will quite understand why the Arsenal is one of the few corners in Paris where it is delightful to go and work or to saunter about. Indeed, it is a tradition of the house. Nodier, good old Nodier, who was one of Monsieur de Bornier's predecessors and a predecessor also of J. M. de Heredia, the master who has so recently gone from us, Nodier, the -admirable author of the _Trophees_, had succeeded in making the Arsenal +admirable author of the _Trophées_, had succeeded in making the Arsenal the centre of literary and artistic Paris. Hugo, Lamartine, de Musset, -Balzac, Mery, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulie used to meet there; and fine +Balzac, Méry, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulié used to meet there; and fine verses were said while regarding the sun glow with red flame behind the towers of Notre Dame. @@ -2701,22 +2666,22 @@ wrote Vacquerie. Of the Bastille nothing remains except a few stones which formed the substructure of one of the old towers; and these have been carefully -removed to the Celestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible +removed to the Célestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible to-day. In vain, therefore, would any one now seek for a vestige of the sombre fortress over which so many legends hovered. Latude's great shade itself would hardly locate the spot; and yet how full Paris history is of this traditional Bastille, which the people, amazed with their easy victory, could not tire of visiting after the 15th of July 1789. Such -was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soules, the governor +was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soulès, the governor appointed by the Parisian municipality, was compelled to stop the visits, on the curious ground "that such damage had already been done to the fortress by visitors that more than 200,000 livres would be required -to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Pare +to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Paré tell us the fury excited by this strange pretension in Danton, sergeant of a section of the National Guard, who, with his company, was turned back by the order. -Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soules, +Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soulès, seized him by the collar and dragged him to the Town Hall; the prohibition was removed; and Citizen Palloy was thenceforth allowed to exploit the celebrated State prison. The stones were "hewn and cut into @@ -2743,7 +2708,7 @@ had constructed there, in 1811, by Alavoine, a strange sort of fountain of bizarre appearance: it was a colossal elephant, twenty-four metres high, which spouted water from its trunk. Built temporarily in plaster and mud, the elephant quickly crumbled away under the action of weather -and rain; and soon became a lamentable debris surrounded with disjointed +and rain; and soon became a lamentable débris surrounded with disjointed planks. The urchins of the district made it the scene of Homeric struggles; but the real familiars were the rats that had made their home inside the structure, so that, when the demolition began, regular @@ -2756,12 +2721,12 @@ the victims of 1830 that are interred within the crypt of the monument. [Illustration: THE SENS MANSION ABOUT 1835 _From a lithograph by Rouargue_] -The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome mansions: the Cosse -mansion, where Quelus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by +The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome mansions: the Cossé +mansion, where Quélus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by du Cerceau on the remains of the Saint-Paul mansion and Germain Pilon's studio; the Sully mansion, whose noble front was not long ago mutilated. Hard by, at the corner of the Rue du Figuier and the picturesque Rue de -l'Hotel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, +l'Hôtel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, stands what is left of the Sens mansion, the only specimen, together with the Cluny Museum, of what private architecture was in the fifteenth century. After being inhabited by Princes of the Church, Bishops, @@ -2772,7 +2737,7 @@ was attributed to Lesurques, the unfortunate Lesurques popularised by the well-known drama performed at the Ambigu, which caused so many tears to flow. -In more recent times, the Hotel de Sens derogated further still. It +In more recent times, the Hôtel de Sens derogated further still. It became a manufactory of sweets! At No. 5 of the Rue du Figuier, we meet with a draw-well, the top of @@ -2781,7 +2746,7 @@ the admirable Rabelais, who died quite near, in the Rue des Jardins. At No. 15, opened the sixteenth-century door through which the actors of the illustrious theatre established on the ancient site of the Jeu de Paume de la Croix-Noire, proceeded to their private stage-room. It was -before this door that Moliere was arrested and taken to the Chatelet, +before this door that Molière was arrested and taken to the Châtelet, because he owed "142 livres to Antoine Fausseur, master-chandler, his purveyor of light." @@ -2792,7 +2757,7 @@ barricade, on the 3rd of December 1851. At No. 303, in the reign of Napoleon I., stood Dr. Dubuisson's private hospital, where General Malet was confined. There he hatched the prodigious plot the disconcerting history of which we intend shortly to relate. Farther on, near the Rue -de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Reveillon's wall-paper stores, +de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Réveillon's wall-paper stores, pillaged on the 17th of April 1789; it was one of the preludes of the Revolution. @@ -2802,14 +2767,14 @@ Only those were admitted who could pay and pay well. The irrefutable memoirs of Monsieur de Saint-Aulaine reveal to us a Belhomme familiar, cynical, exacting his fees and thouing Duchesses short of money who haggled with him on the question of their life. The most amiable of -historians, my excellent friend G. Lenotre, whom it is always necessary +historians, my excellent friend G. Lenôtre, whom it is always necessary to quote when facts of the Revolutionary epoch are in question, has reconstituted the terrible and surprising story of the Belhomme institution where they laughed, danced, or even flirted under the dread eye of Fouquier-Tinville; and has related, with his habitual -documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of Orleans, widow of -Louis-Philippe Egalite, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at -Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orleans family +documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of Orléans, widow of +Louis-Philippe Egalité, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at +Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orléans family vault. Pursuing our way and passing by the Church of Sainte Marguerite, in @@ -2818,8 +2783,8 @@ of the Throne (the Throne overthrown, people said in 1793). The scaffold, which had temporarily quitted the Revolution Square, was put up here during the most terrible period of the Terror, and the "great batches" were executed upon it. In six weeks, 1300 victims perished, -among them, Andre Chenier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of -Montmorency, Cecile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet +among them, André Chénier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of +Montmorency, Cécile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet Roucher, and many others. The bodies of these unfortunate people, stripped of their clothing, were loaded each evening on covered waggons, with their severed heads between their legs; and the horrible vehicle, @@ -2847,7 +2812,7 @@ contrast to the poor, low houses that huddle round it. Fowls peck at the foot of the fifteenth-century turrets, which enclose a handsome staircase; and patched linen dries on iron wire stretched between the caryatide windows of the seventeenth century, replacing those behind -which once mused the Duke d'Orleans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in +which once mused the Duke d'Orléans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in 1409, Jean de Montaigu, beheaded for sorcery! who were formerly illustrious guests in this elegant dwelling. @@ -2859,15 +2824,15 @@ And now, let us stop at the Vosges Square on the other side of the Bastille. It is another rare nook of our old City, which, through the centuries, has preserved its ancient character very nearly intact. The houses there, in Louis XIII. style, have not changed. The scenery has -remained the same. The _Precieuses_ could take their favourite walks +remained the same. The _Précieuses_ could take their favourite walks there; and those punctilious in honour might draw their sword, as in the time of Richelieu and the Edict-malcontents; only the public of spectators would be quite different. The fine ladies of the country hight Tender, the Cydalises and Aramynthas, the lords once living in those noble dwellings, they who, on the 16th of March 1612, were present -at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Medici, in honour +at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Médici, in honour of the peace concluded with Spain, or they who proceeded in grand -coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sevigne's, are +coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sévigné's, are to-day replaced by petty annuitants, modest shopkeepers retired from business and pensioned-off officers. Humble charwomen work at their tasks in the spots where Mazarin's nieces paused in their sedan-chairs; @@ -2884,13 +2849,13 @@ that in these peaceful quarters biblical traditions have been preserved in some Jewish families. [Illustration: THE PLACE ROYALE ABOUT 1651 (NOW THE VOSGES SQUARE) -_Israel, del._] +_Israël, del._] The old-time animation, however, is an exception. The Vosges Square, once the Place Royale, where Richelieu lived and Fronsac, Chabannes, Marshal de Chaulnes, Rohan-Chabot, Rotrou, Dangeau, Canillac, the -Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Chatelet, where Madame de Sevigne -was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Theophile Gautier +Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Châtelet, where Madame de Sévigné +was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Théophile Gautier and Victor Hugo, is to-day completely neglected; and this delightful Paris nook, where so much wit was spent, such fine ladies rivalled in grace and elegance and so many exquisites drew their swords, is now @@ -2901,7 +2866,7 @@ beneath the debonair shadow of Louis XIII.'s statue, with its philosophic frame of a Punch-and-Judy show and a chair-woman's stall. In the ancient Rue Culture-Sainte-Catherine (at present called the Rue -de Sevigne) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the +de Sévigné) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the Marais theatre, built with money provided by Beaumarchais. In 1792, the _Guilty Mother_ was performed there, for the benefit, said the play-bill, "of the first soldier who shall send citizen Beaumarchais an @@ -2913,20 +2878,20 @@ establishment, is the old wall of the Force Prison, where, on a post at the corner of the Rue des Balais, Madame de Lamballe was executed, where also Madame de Tallien was transferred, and Princess de Tarente was confined, the latter, the grandmother of the kind, courteous and learned -Duke de la Tremoille, who had only to dip into his incomparable family +Duke de la Trémoïlle, who had only to dip into his incomparable family archives to give us the most precious documents of French history, and to whom we are indebted for those picturesque and exciting "Souvenirs of Madame de Tarente," one of the most valuable narrations by an eye-witness of the Revolutionary period. -The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sevigne's "dear Carnavalette," is +The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sévigné's "dear Carnavalette," is close by, as also the ancient Le Peletier-Saint-Fargeau mansion, to-day the City of Paris Library. It is a fine, large building of noble appearance, which contains wonderful books, maps, plans and manuscripts. The written history of Paris is there; and all workers know the pretty, sculpture-ornamented room of Monsieur le Vayer, the erudite, obliging -Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poete, Beaurepaire, Jacob, -Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Petre and Stirling in the +Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poète, Beaurepaire, Jacob, +Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Pètre and Stirling in the History room are the wise and welcoming hosts of this admirable Parisian Library. @@ -2935,7 +2900,7 @@ which, alas! has been respected. All are given over to business and manufacturing. The Lamoignon mansion is occupied by glass-polishers and garden-seatmakers; the Albret mansion by a bronze lamp-dealer; those of Tallard, Maulevrier, Sauvigny, Brevannes, Epernon, &c., are still -standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyeres offers us +standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyères offers us its curious bass-relief, in painted stone, representing a knife-grinder in eighteenth-century costume. In 1748, a Madame de Pannelier kept a "wit-office" in this same street; Lalande, Sautereau, Guichard, Leclerc @@ -2943,7 +2908,7 @@ de Merry used to attend meetings there. They were held on Wednesdays, and were preceded by an excellent dinner. The tradition has happily been preserved in Paris. -In the Rue Francois-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with +In the Rue François-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with circular pediment, escutcheons and garlands. It is the Beauvais mansion, built by Le Pautre in 1658. @@ -2953,12 +2918,12 @@ the entrance gate and that, from the top of the central pavilion balcony, Queen Anne of Austria, in company with the Queen of England, Cardinal Mazarin, Marshal de Turenne and other illustrious nobles, had watched her son Louis XIV. and her daughter-in-law, the new Queen -Marie-Therese of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's +Marie-Thérèse of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's Gate, their solemn entry into Paris on the 26th of August 1660![3] On account of its picturesque aspect and the fine mansions it contains, the Rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier is one of the most curious in Paris. At No. 26 -stands the Chalons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and +stands the Châlons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and wonderful knocker. At the bottom of the courtyard is an exceedingly elegant Louis XIII. pavilion in brick and stone, and of delicate proportions. The mansion was built for the second Constable of @@ -3011,7 +2976,7 @@ this strange kitchen beneath these antique Gothic arches, between these blackened pillars still bearing traces of the candles that once burned in front of the holy images, on a ground formerly used for burying and even now concealing bones. The out-offices of the old church still -remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the Rue Francois-Miron, +remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the Rue François-Miron, No. 2, on the left of the entrance portal of the church, between a laundress's establishment and a furniture-remover's premises! @@ -3020,7 +2985,7 @@ The Rue Paradis-des-Francs-Bourgeois and the Rue Vieille-du-Temple in 1866 _Drawn by A. Maignan_] -On one side, the little Rue de l'Hotel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue +On one side, the little Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue Vieille-du-Temple, where we can admire, at No. 47, what is left of the quaint mansion of the Dutch Ambassadors, where "Monsieur Caron de Beaumarchais and Madame his spouse," as an almanac of 1787 called them, @@ -3028,7 +2993,7 @@ established in 1784 a Provident Institution for poor nursing mothers. Indeed, it was for the benefit of this undertaking that the fiftieth performance of the _Mariage de Figaro_ was given. Farther on, to the right, at the corner of the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, stands the pretty -turret built about 1500 for Jean Herouet; and, last of all, the fine +turret built about 1500 for Jean Hérouet; and, last of all, the fine Rohan palace, which to-day is the National Printing House. This last is a noble and spacious building which the elegant Cardinal that once lived in it took pleasure in sumptuously decorating. A masterpiece may be seen @@ -3058,8 +3023,8 @@ the gloomy street he rushed with absolutely nothing on. The little house still exists, wretched and dingy-looking, where Malet appointed to meet his accomplices, on the third floor in the abode of -the Abbe Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the -Bicetre asylum. +the Abbé Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the +Bicêtre asylum. This adventure of General Malet's is both prodigious and disconcerting. For, in 1812, at the moment when Napoleon seemed to be at the summit of @@ -3240,7 +3205,7 @@ of the ancestors of Communism, Baboeuf, was arrested. SAINT-EUSTACHE, IN 1867 _Drawn by A. Maignan_] -Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Moliere lived. +Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Molière lived. This street disappeared when the Rue Turbigo was cut. [Illustration: THE CENTRAL MARKET IN 1828 @@ -3303,9 +3268,9 @@ severity be shown? There was a good deal of intriguing and excitement; but, finally, the Lieutenant for criminal affairs, acting on the orders of the Regent, arrested the Count de Horn, on the 22nd of March 1720; and, four days after, the latter was broken on the wheel and executed in -the centre of the Greve Square, amidst the applause of all Paris. +the centre of the Grève Square, amidst the applause of all Paris. -[Illustration: MOLIERE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE +[Illustration: MOLIÈRE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE _Water-colour by Hervier_] The Rue Quincampoix likewise contains some few old mansions now @@ -3318,7 +3283,7 @@ wretched fragments, the life of luxury, fever and stock-jobbing that once filled this old street, now foul with chemical smells and rancid odours of fried potatoes. -Colle's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris +Collé's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris when one belongs to the Marais!" Trade has laid hold of the fine mansions of yore; druggists have set up @@ -3441,48 +3406,48 @@ women rival with each other in grace, manners and toilet, the latter of the strangest names; and the draughtsman Briou can write below a fashion engraving of the period: "The provoking Julia reposing on the Boulevard, while awaiting a stroke of good fortune; she is in morning gown with a -Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At Alexander's Cafe Royal, there +Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At Alexander's Cafè Royal, there is supper and dancing; people crowd to listen to Nicolet's patter; and a circle of hearers surround Fanchon, the hurdy-gurdy player. On the same Boulevard, Curtius sets up his luxuriously arranged wax-work saloons; -and, later, the parades of Bobeche and Galimafre will be the joy of +and, later, the parades of Bobèche and Galimafré will be the joy of Paris; for a long time, the fair will continue. [Illustration: FANCHON, THE HURDY-GURDY PLAYER _Original drawing_ (Ch. Drouet Collection)] The Ambigu, the Historic Theatre, the Gaiety, the Funambules, the -Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Delassements Comiques,--ten +Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Délassements Comiques,--ten theatres or so will add to the excitement with their strange, nervous, grandiloquent, noisy companies of actors. The gay apprentices, at all times fond of plays, will cheer as they go by the heroes of all these dramas and melodramas, so numerous that popular slang had nicknamed as Crime Boulevard the thoroughfare where, at twelve each evening, so much blood flowed on the boards of these theatres. There were Madame Dorval, -Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Dejazet, Messieurs Bocage, Melingue, -Bouffe, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau--the +Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Déjazet, Messieurs Bocage, Mélingue, +Bouffé, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau--the ideal Pierrot--and also Gobert, so like Napoleon I., as was Taillade, who, thin and nervous, was incarnating Bonaparte. It was the period when the Bonapartist epopee turned people's heads to such an extent that the poor comedian Briand, who, in one of the many Napoleon plays, was acting the ungrateful part of Sir Hudson Lowe, said: "I shall never have a similar success. Yesterday, I was waited for at the theatre door and -thrown into the Chateau-d'Eau canal basin!" +thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!" [Illustration: VIEW OF THE AMBIGU-COMIQUE ON THE TEMPLE BOULEVARD _Lallemand, del._ (Carnavalet Museum)] All the quarter waxed enthusiastic about its favourite actors, espoused -their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frederic +their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frédéric Lemaitre especially, a tragic, dare-devil, drinking, extravagant yet talented artist, decking himself in private life, as well as on the -stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Caesar de Bazan, had his own +stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Cæsar de Bazan, had his own story. People went into ecstasies over his amours with Clarisse Miroy, interwoven with thrashings and fond tenderness. On the day after one of -these noisy quarrels, Frederic is said to have rung at his lady-love's +these noisy quarrels, Frédéric is said to have rung at his lady-love's door, which was opened by Clarisse's mother. The good dame, frightened at the brutal actor's appearance, raised her arm instinctively as if to -ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frederic in Richard +ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frédéric in Richard d'Arlington's tones, "I beat you! Why?... Do I love you?" [Illustration: THE FUNAMBULES THEATRE ON THE TEMPLE BOULEVARD @@ -3500,10 +3465,10 @@ kettle-drummer, for the modest salary of forty-five francs a month. _Canella, pinxit_] Others to perform there were the Davenport brothers and the conjurer -Robin, with their amusing seances of hypnotism and white magic. On this +Robin, with their amusing séances of hypnotism and white magic. On this always-to-be-remembered Temple Boulevard were to be met the various -fashionable authors: Dennery, Theodore Barriere, Victor Sejour, Paul -Feval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard +fashionable authors: Dennery, Théodore Barrière, Victor Séjour, Paul +Féval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard brothers, Clairville; and the great Dumas used to pass in triumph, shaking hands with everybody as he went. The coffee-houses had to turn customers away; orange-sellers made fortunes, while boys sold checks, @@ -3515,10 +3480,10 @@ was the golden age! In 1862, a regrettable decision of Baron Haussmann, the Prefect of the Seine, suppressed this bit of Paris, so lively and gay; and, on the ruins of all these theatres, which brought money and mirth to the -quarter, were built Prince Eugene's barracks, the ugly Hotel Moderne, +quarter, were built Prince Eugène's barracks, the ugly Hôtel Moderne, and the wretched monument of the Republic Square. Of all this fine, -artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Dejazet Theatre, at the -corner of the Vendome Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter +artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Déjazet Theatre, at the +corner of the Vendôme Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter different far from what it was when Bailly depicted it under the Directory. Elegant dames, the Merveilleuses, the Incroyables used to frequent it for the purpose of nibbling an ice or sipping little pots of @@ -3528,18 +3493,18 @@ the quarter took their family to get an idea of the high Parisian life which made the Turkish Coffee-house one of its favourite meeting-places. Restaurants were numerous, being souvenirs of coffee-houses formerly -renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafes. There one found singing and +renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafés. There one found singing and dancing, and, now and again, plotting. It was at the Burgundy Vintage Restaurant in the Temple faubourg, the ordinary rendezvous of Paris wedding-breakfasts or National Guard love-feasts, that--on the 9th of May 1831, at the end of a banquet given to celebrate the acquittal of Guinard, Cavaignac, and the Garnier brothers, charged with plotting -against the State--Evariste Gallois, with a knife in his hand, +against the State--Évariste Gallois, with a knife in his hand, proposed in three words this threatening toast: "To Louis-Philippe!" The great Flaubert lived on the Temple Boulevard at No. 42. There, on Sundays, he gathered his disciples at noisy lunches--Zola, Goncourt, -Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Ceard, George Pouchet--a few yards away +Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Céard, George Pouchet--a few yards away from a building of tragic fame. No. 50, in fact, was the wretched house whose third-story Venetian blinds concealed Fieschi and the twenty-five pistol barrels loaded with bullets which constituted his infernal @@ -3549,7 +3514,7 @@ terrible. The grocer Morey, who had helped to prepare the monstrous crime, had even taken the useful precaution to damage four of the gun-barrels, whose explosion was to suppress Fieschi himself. -Pepin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several +Pépin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several times past the fatal window; and from behind the Venetian blinds, Fieschi, who was an excellent shot, had been able at his ease to regulate the aim of his horrible slaughtering-machine. It was intended @@ -3566,9 +3531,9 @@ blood. More than forty victims lay on the road, among them being the glorious Marshal Mortier, who expired on one of the marble tables in the Turkish Coffee-house, whither the dead and wounded had been transported. Fieschi, who was wounded, was arrested in the backyard of the next -house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fosses-du-Temple. On the +house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fossés-du-Temple. On the 19th of February 1836, he ascended the scaffold with his accomplices, -Pepin and Morey. +Pépin and Morey. At the corner of the Temple Boulevard, to the right, in front of the first house in the Voltaire Boulevard, the barricade was raised where @@ -3598,7 +3563,7 @@ the form of an expectant friend. [Illustration: THE RUE SAINT MARTIN (1866)--THE GREEN-WOOD TOWER _Drawn by A. Maignan_] -Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Clery, +Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Cléry, there was formerly a rise in the road, which was the scene of a tragic occurrence. There, on the 21st of January 1793, the intrepid De Batz had appointed to meet a few companions. It was determined that a forlorn @@ -3616,35 +3581,35 @@ Notwithstanding their small number, they did not hesitate, and rushed at the horses' heads. The Guards cut them down. Three were killed. De Batz managed to escape. -[Illustration: THE RUE DE CLERY +[Illustration: THE RUE DE CLÉRY _Lansyer, pinxit_] -This strange, winding Rue de Clery, whose thin edge stands out so +This strange, winding Rue de Cléry, whose thin edge stands out so curiously against the sky, was the scene of another drama. The father of -Andre and Marie-Joseph Chenier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of -Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son Andre, +André and Marie-Joseph Chénier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of +Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son André, who for long months had been a prisoner at Saint-Lazare. The poor man had foolishly taken it into his head to appeal to Collot d'Herbois' heart(!) and to ask him to free his son. Collot d'Herbois had once been an actor; and now, on another sort of stage, revenged himself for -having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which Andre -Chenier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know +having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which André +Chénier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know in what prison his enemy was confined. Marie-Joseph, the brother, himself an object of suspicion, had been able to lengthen out the -proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where Andre was confined. +proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where André was confined. At this supreme hour of the Terror, it was the only possible chance Collot d'Herbois had to satisfy his vengeance; and the information thus unadvisedly but innocently given by the prisoner's father was utilised by the revengeful actor. "To-morrow," Collot assured the unhappy father, "your son shall quit Saint-Lazare." He kept his word; and, on the 7th of Thermidor, just at the hour when the guest was so impatiently expected, -Andre got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the +André got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the barrier of the Throne Square. -Round about the picturesque Rue de Clery, the quarter is an odd medley +Round about the picturesque Rue de Cléry, the quarter is an odd medley of little streets, lanes, and alleys: the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance, the Rue Sainte-Foy, the Rue des Petits-Carreaux, the Rue de la Lune, in -which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempre watching over Coralie's +which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempré watching over Coralie's dead body, and composing libertine songs, in order to gain the money required for his mistress's funeral. @@ -3664,32 +3629,32 @@ in white tunics, with a red cross embroidered on their breasts, booted in deer-skin, and coifed with a white cloth square cap surmounted by three feathers--one yellow, one black, and one white! -[Illustration: THE POISSONNIERE BOULEVARD IN 1834 +[Illustration: THE POISSONNIÈRE BOULEVARD IN 1834 _Dagnan, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] A delightful picture by Dagnan, which is now in the Carnavalet Museum, -shows us the Poissonniere Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain +shows us the Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain to-day; but, alas! the tall, thick-foliaged trees that made the Boulevard a sort of park avenue have long since disappeared. That lover of Paris, Victorien Sardou, who was born in it, and who is cheered, loved, and honoured in it, very well remembers seeing the trees as they used to be, and his long saunterings in front of the Gymnase Theatre. Did he foresee the successes he was to gain with _les Ganaches_, _les -Vieux Garcons_, _les Bons Villageois_, _Andrea_, _Fereol_, -_Seraphine_, _Fernande_, &c.? +Vieux Garçons_, _les Bons Villageois_, _Andréa_, _Féréol_, +_Séraphine_, _Fernande_, &c.? [Illustration: THE GYMNASE THEATRE _Etching by Martial_] Further on, we come across the ancient Variety Theatre, whose antique front speaks of a glorious past; Duvert, Lauzanne, Bayard, Scribe, -Meilhac, Ludovic Halevy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music +Meilhac, Ludovic Halévy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music bewitched Paris for twenty years. -Ludovic Halevy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us +Ludovic Halévy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us an interesting sketch of the Montmartre Boulevard towards 1810: "The Variety actors had been obliged to quit the Montansier hall; their -vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Theatre Francais. +vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Théâtre Français. The Emperor made a decree depriving them of the Palais-Royal premises; but they were allowed to move to new premises on the Montmartre Boulevard!... A frightful quarter for a theatre!... It was almost in the @@ -3707,8 +3672,8 @@ With the Variety Theatre began what was called, without epithet, _The Boulevard_. For idlers, saunterers, wits, clubmen, writers, journalists, under the second Empire, it was a sort of sacred ground. Grammont-Caderousse, the Prince of Orange, Khalil-Bey, Paul Demidoff, -Aurelien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot -were kings there. The Cafe Anglais, the Maison Doree, Tortoni's were +Aurélien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot +were kings there. The Café Anglais, the Maison Dorée, Tortoni's were frequented by the fashionables of society and literature. The gas flared, champagne corks flew, and one had only to open pianos for them to play automatically the Evohe of _Orpheus in Hades_! An apropos @@ -3747,18 +3712,18 @@ sausage, replace the aristocratic restaurants of yore. The features are different; but still it is a Paris nook, really gay, amusing, and original. A walk in it is delightful, though nothing, alas! can be said to vividly recall the past, since the terrible fire of 1887 destroyed -the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Gretry, Dalayrac, Mehul, -Boieldieu, and Herold; the Opera whose facade does not open on the +the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Grétry, Dalayrac, Méhul, +Boïeldieu, and Hérold; the Opera whose façade does not open on the boulevard, according to the desire formally expressed in 1782 to Heurtier, the architect, by the King's Comedians refusing to be confused -with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opera-Comique where, every evening, +with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opéra-Comique where, every evening, in the spacious _foyer_ adorned with busts of dead musical celebrities -and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitues +and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitués met whose attendance was a protest against modern music: Auber, Adam, -Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another aesthetic doctrine, -G. Bizet, Leo Delibes, V. Masse, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halevy, +Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another æsthetic doctrine, +G. Bizet, Léo Delibes, V. Massé, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halévy, and old Dupin, the last an astonishing centenarian who, one evening, -with rancorous eye looked at Herold's bust and grumbled: "How that +with rancorous eye looked at Hérold's bust and grumbled: "How that urchin used to rile me!" In presence of the general bewilderment he explained: "I was his school companion, in 1806, at Saint-Louis' College!" we were then in May 1885! This was the obstinately reactionary @@ -3771,11 +3736,11 @@ _Houbron, pinxit_] The amiable chats, the agreeable meetings which brought together so many witty people, clever talkers, artists, men of the world, those of the -Comic Opera _foyer_, of the Grand Opera, or the Comedie Francaise are +Comic Opera _foyer_, of the Grand Opera, or the Comédie Française are now hardly anything but a memory. Not that the practice itself is abolished. Art gatherings are quite as frequent and as well attended; but they have emigrated,--many of them to Montmartre, to the "Butte -Sacree," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing +Sacrée," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing Salis in his _Chat Noir_ patter; and truly the spot is one of the Capital's curiosities. @@ -3800,9 +3765,9 @@ _Houbron, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] Montmartre is the Capital's pot-house; it is all good-humoured laughter and chaff. People enjoy themselves at night and work in the day, for it has always been a favourite abode for artists of every kind: Henri -Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantes, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle -Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Masse, Vollon, -Manet, Andre Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, +Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantès, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle +Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Massé, Vollon, +Manet, André Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, Xanrof, Maurice Donnay. Their memory there is alive and respected, the legend of their prowess is preserved. It is Montmartre's _Iliad_. @@ -3820,12 +3785,12 @@ Part of the wall still stands; and though the house has disappeared in which this tragedy of the 18th of March was played, a little of the garden itself remains, behind the modern buildings of the _Abri Saint-Joseph_, vast sheds used as refectories by the crowds of pilgrims -attracted to the basilica of the Sacre-Coeur. +attracted to the basilica of the Sacré-Coeur. Indeed, all this quarter is melancholy-looking, silent, quaint, and monastic. Chaplet, scapulary, candle, missal, and pious picture-dealers have their shops in it. The spot is a sort of religious fair; even the -streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthere, Saint-Rustique, near the +streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthère, Saint-Rustique, near the Rue Girardon, and the Calvary cemetery, overlooked by the awkward outlines of the old Galette Windmill, the ordinary rendezvous for idlers, boulevard inquisitives, artists' models, lemans and bullies of @@ -3855,13 +3820,13 @@ stone, whence heave, like masts, the bell-towers of palaces, the turrets, belfries and steeples of churches, with domes, roofs and gardens--an incomparable vision of art, grandeur and beauty. -The great Balzac informs us that Cesar Birotteau was ruined by +The great Balzac informs us that César Birotteau was ruined by speculations he engaged in on the "waste ground round about the Madeleine church." He lost in them the profits realised by his "Eau -Carminative" and by the "Double Pate des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" +Carminative" and by the "Double Pâte des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" perfumery was swallowed up in them.... -And, however, Cesar Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the +And, however, César Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the Madeleine building ground is the highest quoted in Paris. In 1802, the surface was occupied by foundation works and scaffolding, @@ -3874,20 +3839,20 @@ _Duplessis-Bertaux, inv. et del._] There took place the charming episode depicted by Duplessis-Bertaux, under the pleasing title: "Ingenuous Benevolence" (an historic fact of the 5th Messidor, anno X.). A long notice, beneath the picture, tells us -that Pradere, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening +that Pradère, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening along the Magdalene Boulevard, met a blind street-singer, who "by the strains of his piano was soliciting public charity." The receipts were wretched; so our kind artists improvised a little open-air concert and remedied the ill-fortune of the poor fellow. After delightfully singing, -Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradere made a collection, and poured +Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradère made a collection, and poured the proceeds, thirty-six francs, into the blind man's hands trembling with emotion! [Illustration: THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE (Second View) _From a sepia of the eighteenth century_] -Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysees, after stopping for a -moment at the "Cite Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the +Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysées, after stopping for a +moment at the "Cité Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the hotel of the King's Musketeers. It is a sort of poor market lost in this rich quarter. @@ -3896,9 +3861,9 @@ rich quarter. _Original water-colour of the eighteenth century_ (Carnavalet Museum)] Then comes the Place de la Concorde, the finest Square in the world, -with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysees, the Seine, the +with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysées, the Seine, the Tuileries, the Garde-Meuble, the Crillon mansion, and the charming house -of Grimod de la Reyniere, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at +of Grimod de la Reynière, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at the corner of the Rue de "la Bonne Morue"--at present the Rue Boissy d'Anglas--in front of which still stood, until the second Empire, one of the corner pavilions erected by Gabriel. What souvenirs! the raising of @@ -3912,7 +3877,7 @@ the ditches crossed, and then the sinister scaffold, smoking in front of the statue to Liberty, and the Conventionals terrified, stopping before they entered their hall and taking a close look at the death which, each day, hovered over them. "Yesterday, as I was proceeding to the Assembly -with Penieres," writes Dulaure in his Memoirs, "we perceived, as we +with Pénières," writes Dulaure in his Memoirs, "we perceived, as we passed through the Revolution Square, preparations being made for an execution. 'Let us pause,' my colleague said to me; 'let us accustom ourselves to the sight. Perhaps we shall soon need to make proof of our @@ -3925,7 +3890,7 @@ Boissy-d'Anglas) _Etching by Martial_] Severed heads were exhibited by the executioner at the four corners of -the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Herault de Sechelles, +the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Hérault de Séchelles, Charlotte Corday, Madame Roland, Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and Robespierre. A dreadful pell-mell, a disastrous butchery; the ground was red with blood. Then followed the soldiers of the Empire, singing as @@ -3961,8 +3926,8 @@ yards from the place where the four hoofs of the Emperor Napoleon's white horse pranced, as his rider reviewed the Guard, before flying his victorious eagles towards Moscow, Madrid, Rome, Vienna, or Berlin! -The Champs Elysees are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine -avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile--the Avenue Kleber, the Avenue +The Champs Elysées are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine +avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile--the Avenue Kléber, the Avenue Wagram, the Avenue Niel, the Avenue de l'Alma--offered most picturesque contrasts; beside a sumptuous mansion, subsisted wretched little houses, remains of old hovels that once were scattered all over this luxurious @@ -3971,14 +3936,14 @@ even to cross, of sixty years ago. Under the Directory, Madame Tallien's cottage (Notre Dame de Thermidor, she was called) to which the Incroyables and the Merveilleuses dared not go without escort, was situated as far up as the Avenue Montaigne. Dancing-gardens and open-air -bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafes-concerts. An +bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafés-concerts. An engraving by Carle Vernet shows us a Cossack encampment round a humble, country-looking inn. Now the Le Doyen restaurant stands there! [Illustration: THE RUE GREUZE IN 1855 _Chauvet, del._] -Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysees were at length altered: side +Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysées were at length altered: side avenues were laid out, the main avenue was widened; and Emile Augier used to relate that, in the hollow of one of the trees numbered for trimming (No. 116, I believe), the ticket porter belonging to the @@ -3987,12 +3952,12 @@ rehearsals of _Mercadet_. The great novelist, in order to escape from his numerous creditors, was lodging at this period in the Rue Beaujon, under the name of Madame Dupont, widow. Gozlan, who ultimately discovered his illustrious friend's address, added on the envelopes -he sent to him--"nee Balzac." +he sent to him--"née Balzac." -[Illustration: THE MADRID CHATEAU +[Illustration: THE MADRID CHÂTEAU _L. G. Moreau, pinxit_] -The curious Memoirs of the Abbe de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us +The curious Memoirs of the Abbé de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us a striking picture of the Bois de Boulogne under the Revolution: a sort of forest, or jungle, in which those took refuge who, being suspected, were tracked by the Committees and the police, and to whom the precious @@ -4021,9 +3986,9 @@ answered." Subsequently it became the ordinary meeting-place for duellists. Already, in the time of Louis XV., some ladies, the Marchioness de Nesles and the Countess de Polignac, had exchanged pistol shots in it on -account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazales +account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazalès and Barnave went there to settle a political quarrel: "I should be sorry -to kill you," exclaimed Cazales; "but you annoy us considerably, and I +to kill you," exclaimed Cazalès; "but you annoy us considerably, and I want to keep you away from the rostrum for a while." "I am more generous," retorted Barnave; "I wish merely to touch you; for you are the only orator on your side, whereas on mine my absence would not even @@ -4037,7 +4002,7 @@ And how many others!... [Illustration: A PERFORMANCE AT THE HIPPODROME ON EYLAU SQUARE UNDER THE SECOND EMPIRE] -Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orleans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord +Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orléans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord Seymour, the Duke de Fitz-James, Ernest Le Roy--the Jockey Club at its formation--organised races there. The stakes were modest; most often, a few bottles of champagne were gained and lost. Then fashion took hold of @@ -4048,7 +4013,7 @@ favourite chariot-races. The Bois de Boulogne became the rendezvous of society. There, was displayed the luxury of the Second Empire. Its trees and avenues formed -an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the _Curee_, +an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the _Curèe_, Emile Zola was able to write: "It was four o'clock and the Bois awoke from its afternoon sultriness. Along the Empress' Avenue, clouds of dust were flying; and, afar, lawns of verdure could be seen, with the hills @@ -4068,7 +4033,7 @@ day gathers within these select surroundings the most elegant women in Paris, fashionable horsemen, vibrating autocars with their _chauffeurs_, clubmen as well as artists and workmen, who come to enjoy the fair spectacle, this feast of the eyes, this unique scenery: the Bois de -Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysees. +Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysées. [Illustration: THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE ABOUT 1850] @@ -4078,7 +4043,7 @@ the glory of the Grand Army that a view is obtained of the sumptuous quarters of modern Paris. Some sixty years ago, Balzac showed his hero dreaming on the hill of -Pere-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster +Père-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster he intended to tame. To-day Rastignac would have to mount the Arc de Triomphe, if he wished to threaten Paris. Thence, he might launch his famous defiance: "It is a struggle between us now!" for, if the aspect @@ -4108,7 +4073,7 @@ WORKS QUOTED OR CONSULTED _History of and Researches into the Antiquities of the City of Paris_. By H. SAUVAL (1724). - _History of the City and Diocese of Paris_. By the ABBE LEBEUF (1883). + _History of the City and Diocese of Paris_. By the ABBÉ LEBEUF (1883). _Tableau of Paris_. By MERCIER (1782). _History of Paris_. By DULAURE (1825). _Tableau of Paris_. By TEXIER (1850). @@ -4119,10 +4084,10 @@ WORKS QUOTED OR CONSULTED _My Old Paris_. By E. DRUMONT (1879). _Paris_. By AUGUSTE VITU (1889). _Paris (History of the Twenty Arrondissements or Quarters)_. By - LABEDOLLIERE. - _Revolutionary Paris_. By LENOTRE (1895). + LABÉDOLLIÈRE. + _Revolutionary Paris_. By LENÔTRE (1895). _Old Papers, Old Houses_. (1900). - _The Bievre and Saint-Severin_. By HUYSMANS (1898). + _The Bièvre and Saint-Séverin_. By HUYSMANS (1898). _The Chronicle of the Streets_. By BEAUREPAIRE (1900). _Paris-Atlas_. By F. BOURNON. _New Itinerary Guide to Paris_. By CH. NORMAND. @@ -4135,360 +4100,4 @@ WORKS QUOTED OR CONSULTED End of Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - -***** This file should be named 40306.txt or 40306.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/0/40306/ - -Produced by Annie R. 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Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40306 *** diff --git a/40306-8.txt b/40306-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 31a483d..0000000 --- a/40306-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4494 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Nooks and Corners of Old Paris - -Author: Georges Cain - -Translator: Frederick Lawton - -Release Date: July 23, 2012 [EBook #40306] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - - - - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. This book was produced from -scanned images of public domain material from the Internet -Archive. - - - - - - - - - -NOOKS AND CORNERS -OF OLD PARIS - - - - -[Illustration: THE RUE DU CHAUME IN 1866 (TO-DAY, THE RUE DES ARCHIVES) -SOUBISE MANSION--CLISSON TOWER -_Drawing by A. Maignan_] - - - - -NOOKS & CORNERS -OF OLD PARIS - - -_by_ -GEORGES CAIN - -CURATOR OF THE CARNAVALET MUSEUM AND OF THE HISTORIC COLLECTIONS -OF THE CITY OF PARIS - - -_With a Preface by_ -VICTORIEN SARDOU - - -WITH OVER A HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS - - -LONDON -E. GRANT RICHARDS -1907 - - - - -_The Translation has been made by_ -FREDERICK LAWTON, M.A. - - - - -DEDICATED -TO -A. G. LENÔTRE -IN TOKEN OF MOST SINCERE -AFFECTION - - G. C. - _December_ 1905. - - - - -LIST OF ENGRAVINGS - - - 1. The Rue du Chaume in 1866 (to-day, the Rue des - Archives) _Frontispiece_ - 2. The Place de la Bastille and the Elephant xvii - 3. Demolition of the Rue Sainte-Hyacinthe-Saint-Michel, - opposite to the Rue Soufflot xxiii - 4. The Town Hall in 1838 xxvii - 5. The Pont-Neuf about 1850 xxxi - 6. The Louvre about 1785 xxxv - 7. The Courtyard of the Carrousel and the Museums about 1848 xxxix - 8. The Garden of the Palais Royal in 1791 xliii - 9. The Place de la Concorde xlvii - 10. Patrol Road leading from the Barrier of the Etoile in 1854 - (to-day the Avenue de Wagram) liii - 11. The Carnavalet Museum lix - 12. The Pont-Royal, the Tuileries, and the Louvre (eighteenth - century) lxiii - 13. View of the Pont-Neuf, taken from an oval window in the - Colonnade of the Louvre 67 - 14. Workshops and Foundations of the City Barracks in 1864-1865 71 - 15. View of Notre-Dame 75 - 16. The "Petit-Pont" 79 - 17. The Old Prefecture of Police (formerly Jerusalem Street) 81 - 18. The Sainte-Chapelle in 1875 83 - 19. Opening up of the space in front of the Palais de Justice 85 - 20. The Cour des Filles in the Conciergerie 89 - 21. The Triumph of Marat 93 - 22. The Dauphine Square in 1780 97 - 23. The Pont Marie in 1886 103 - 24. The Isle of Saint-Louis 107 - 25. The College of Louis-le-Grand 111 - 26. The Inner Courtyard of the École Polytechnique 113 - 27. The Rue Clovis in 1867 115 - 28. The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in 1866 119 - 29. The Panthéon, in building 121 - 30. Procession in front of Sainte-Geneviève 123 - 31. The Apotheosis of Jean-Jacques Rousseau 127 - 32. The Luxembourg, about 1790 131 - 33. Fraternal Suppers in the Sections of Paris 135 - 34. Fête given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, - Anno VII. 139 - 35. The Rue de l'École de Médecine in 1866 (house where Marat - was assassinated) 143 - 36. The Gallery of the Odéon (Rue Rotrou) 146 - 37. The Rohan Courtyard in 1901 147 - 38. The Rohan Courtyard in 1901 (second view) 151 - 39. The Rue Visconti 155 - 40. Alfred de Musset at 23 years of age 157 - 41. The Façade of the Institute 160 - 42. View from the Louvre Quay 161 - 43. Paris from the Pointe de la Cité 165 - 44. The Rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin in 1866 169 - 45. The Passage des Patriarches 173 - 46. The Rue Mouffetard 176 - 47. The Rue Galande 177 - 48. The Place Maubert 179 - 49. The Old Amphitheatre of Surgery at the corner of the - Colbert Mansion 181 - 50. The Church of Saint-Nicolas-du-Chardonneret and the Rue - Saint-Victor 183 - 51. The Rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre 186 - 52. The Jardin des Plantes--The Cedar of Lebanon and the - Labyrinth 187 - 53. The Jardin des Plantes in the eighteenth century 191 - 54. The Jardin des Plantes--Cuvier's House 195 - 55. The Rue de Bièvre 199 - 56. The Bièvre Tanneries 203 - 57. The Bièvre about 1900--The Valence Mill-race 207 - 58. The Constantine Bridge and Stockade 211 - 59. The Pont-Royal in 1800 213 - 60. The Lesdiguières Mansion 215 - 61. Commemorative Ball on the Ruins of the Bastille 217 - 62. The Sens Mansion about 1835 221 - 63. The Provost Hugues Aubryot's Mansion--Charlemagne's - Courtyard and Passage in 1867 227 - 64. The Place Royale about 1651 (now the Vosges Square) 231 - 65. The Rue Grenier-sur-l'Eau in 1866 235 - 66. The Saint-Paul Port 237 - 67. The Barbett Mansion 238 - 68. The Rue de Venise 243 - 69. The Rue du Renard-Saint-Merry 247 - 70. The Rue des Prouvaires and the Rue Saint-Eustache about 1850 250 - 71. The Central Market foot-pavement, near the Church of - Saint-Eustache, in 1867 252 - 72. The Central Market in 1828 254 - 73. The Central Market in 1822 255 - 74. Molière's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie 257 - 75. The Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie about 1848 259 - 76. Alexander's Grand Cafè Royal on the Temple Boulevard 263 - 77. Fanchon, the Hurdy-Gurdy player 267 - 78. View of the Ambigu-Comique on the Temple Boulevard 271 - 79. The Funambules Theatre on the Temple Boulevard 273 - 80. The Ambigu Theatre and Boulevard about 1830 277 - 81. The Porte Saint-Martin 281 - 82. The Rue Saint-Martin in 1866--The Green-Wood Tower 284 - 83. The Rue de Cléry 285 - 84. The Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834 289 - 85. The Gymnase Theatre 292 - 86. The Variety Theatre about 1810 293 - 87. The Boulevards, the Hôtel de Salm, and Windmills of - Montmartre 297 - 88. The Rue de la Barre at Montmartre 299 - 89. A Street in Montmartre 301 - 90. The Rue des Rosiers 303 - 91. The Place de la Concorde in 1829 305 - 92. Ingenuous Benevolence 307 - 93. The Place de la Concorde (second view) 309 - 94. The Entrance to the Tuileries, over the Swing Bridge, in 1788 311 - 95. Corner Pavilion of the Louis XV. Square about 1850 313 - 96. View in the Tuileries Gardens in 1808 315 - 97. The Rue Greuze in 1855 318 - 98. The Madrid Château 319 - 99. The Bagatelle Pavilion 322 - 100. A Performance at the Hippodrome under the Second Empire 323 - 101. The Arc de Triomphe about 1850 325 - - - - -[Illustration: Drawn by Saffrey] - - - - -PREFACE - - -_Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mène -and Auguste Cain, my excellent friend, Georges Cain, has abundantly -shown that he is the worthy inheritor of their talent. To-day, he wishes -to prove that he knows how "to handle the pen as well as the pencil" as -our Ancients used to say, and that the Carnavalet Museum has in him, not -only the active and enthusiastic Curator that we constantly see at his -task, but also the most enlightened guide possible in matters of -Parisian lore; and so he has written this bewitching book which conjures -up before me the Paris of my childhood and youth--the Paris of times -gone by, which, in the course of centuries, has undergone many -transformations, but not one so rapid and so complete as that which I -have witnessed. The change, indeed, is such that, in certain quarters, I -have difficulty in recognising, in the city of Napoleon III., that of -Louis-Philippe. The latter would have been uninhabitable now, owing to -the requirements of modern life, but it answered to the needs and -customs of its time. People put up then with difficulties and defects -that were judged unavoidable, no Capital being without them. And, in -fact, in spite of its drawbacks and blemishes, the Paris of that period -had its own charms._ - -[Illustration: THE PLACE DE LA BASTILLE, AND THE ELEPHANT -_Lithographed by Ph. Benoist_] - -_Most of its streets were very narrow and had no sidewalks. Pedestrians -were obliged to take refuge, from passing carriages, on shop thresholds, -under entrance gates, or else beside posts erected here and there for -that purpose. Still, even in the densest traffic, one ran fewer risks -walking along the road than one runs at present crossing the -boulevards.... On these boulevards, where a single omnibus plied between -the Madeleine and the Bastille every quarter of an hour, and where there -was practically no danger of being knocked down by a horse, I have seen -a crowd watching a fencing-bout on the spot to-day occupied by a -refuge-pavement; and, on the Bastille Square, I used to play quietly, -trundling my hoop round the Elephant and the July Pillar. There was -little else to dread, throughout Paris, save splashes from the gutters, -whose waters flowed in the middle of the streets ... when they flowed at -all; for, during the hot summer days, there was nothing but stagnant -household slops, which lay in the gutters until the next storm of rain. -In winter, as the snow was never swept away, and the employment of salt -for melting it was unknown, the thaws were something terrible! Every -corner--and the houses being hardly ever in line, there were many--was -used as a rubbish-heap, or for the committing of nuisances excusable -only through lack of modern conveniences. Moreover, the streets, by very -reason of their narrowness, were more noisy than ours. The rolling of -heavy waggons over big, round paving-stones badly set, with jolts that -shook both windows and houses; the constant cries of men and women -selling fruit, vegetables, fish and flowers, &c. ... and pushing their -handcarts, not to speak of dealers in clothes, umbrellas, and -hand-brushes, of glaziers and of chimney-sweeps; the din of watermen -blowing into their taps; the calls of water-bearers as they loudly -clinked their bucket-handles; the clarionets and tambourines of -strolling singers that went from one courtyard to another; all this -composed the gaiety of the street. What was less tolerable was the -incessant noise of barrel-organs beneath your windows from morning till -evenings and inflicting on you a torture that it makes me angry to think -of even now._ - -_To crown all, the lighting of the streets was wretched. In most, it was -the ancient lamp whose illumination was an affair that stopped traffic -while the operation lasted. On the other hand, however, the city was -better guarded at night than it is at present, owing to the rounds of -the "grey patrols" which, with their Indian files of cloak-muffled, -slow-walking figures, crept along the walls and crossed one another's -beats so as to be within helping distance, at the least alarm. Happy -time, when, at one o'clock in the morning, in my lonely quarter, I was -sure to come across one of them, and when one could stay out late -without a revolver in one's pocket. This, it will be said, was because -Paris was smaller, less populus, and the task of the police easier. -But it is the duty of the police to proportion the protection to the -danger, and the numbers of its officers to those of the evil-doers that -infest our streets, for whom, formerly, little of the regard was felt -that is lavished on them to-day._ - -_As a set-off to its narrow, badly-paved, badly-kept, and badly-lighted -streets, Paris then had an attraction which it no longer possesses--its -gardens._ - -_The idea formed of the old city is, generally, that of a heap of -ancient houses with neither light, fresh air, nor verdure. In reality, -the houses of the time, whether recent or old, existed only as a border -to the street. Behind them, in the whole of the space that extended from -one road to another, there were vast enclosures affording the sun, -silence and verdure that did not exist in front. Many dwellings had -fashioned, out of the grounds of mansions and convents parcelled up -during the last century or two, large courtyards and private gardens -which, separated merely by low fences, mingled their foliage and shade. -This was so everywhere throughout the city, except in the part of it -properly so called, and in the central portion near the Town Hall and -the markets. A glance at the old plans of Paris will suffice to show -that these unbuilt-on spaces comprised, under Louis XVI., the half, and, -under Louis-Philippe, a third of the city's present area. In the Marais -and Arsenal quarters, in the Saint-Antoine, Temple, and Popincourt -faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussée d'Antin, the Porcherons, the -Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honoré faubourg, and along all the left -bank of the river, which last was privileged in this respect, there were -only scattered dwellings amidst orchards, kitchen-gardens, -trellis-vineyards, farmyards, groves, and parks planted with century-old -trees. The little that remains of this past is being rapidly destroyed; -and, from the health and pleasure point of view, it is a great pity._ - -_From my window in the Rue d'Enfer, Estrapade Square, close to the blind -alley of the Feuillantines, I used to cast my eyes, as far as I could -see in every direction, over a wealth of foliage. In the Rue -Neuve-Saint-Étienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once -lived, I beheld the towers of Notre Dame, beyond avenues of trimmed -trees; and I could say, like the good Monsieur Rollin, in the distich -engraved on his door a few yards away:_ Ruris et urbis incola, _that I -was "an inhabitant both of the town and of the country." Through these -gardens, through these silent streets so propitious to quiet labour, and -scenting of lilacs and blossoming with pink and white chestnuts, new -roads have been cut; the Saint-Germain and Saint-Michel Boulevards, the -Rues de Rennes and Gay-Lussac, the Rue Monge which caused the demolition -of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Étienne itself; -and the Rue Claude-Bernard which did away with the Feuillantines, where -Victor Hugo, as a child, used to chase butterflies. Soon, the last of -the monastic enclosures of the Saint-Jacques quarter, that of the -Ursulines, will disappear to make room for three new streets!_ - -_The use of such small gardens, belonging mostly to private houses, was -keenly appreciated by Parisians of the lower middle-classes who have -always been of a stay-at-home disposition. This characteristic of theirs -was satirised, during last century, in a well-known pamphlet: "A Journey -from Paris to Saint-Cloud by Sea and by Land." Their curiosity with -regard to far-off countries was not awakened as it is nowadays by -stories of travel, and by engravings, photographs, or coloured -advertisements. And getting from one place to another was very -expensive. Railways had not yet made it easy for every one to go long -distances by means of reduced fares and cheap circular tickets. An -ordinary working man, in these modern times, will travel more easily -to Biarritz, Switzerland, or Monte-Carlo, than an independent gentleman -of the Marais could then have done. During the midsummer heat, Paris -was as full as in winter's cold; and the theatres reaped their most -abundant harvest, especially popular ones like the Ambigu, the -Porte-Saint-Martin, the Gaieti, the Cirque, the Folies-Dramatiques, the -Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Théâtre Historique, &c., which were -situated near together about the Temple Boulevard. The fine weather -allowed people living at long distances to come on foot to this dramatic -fair, saving the price of a carriage both ways, and to make tail at the -doors, without having to fear rain or cold; for the good-tempered public -of those days, loving a play for its own sake, had no objection to be -penned up so, between two barriers, while waiting for the opening of the -ticket-offices, which then used to take place between five and six in -the evening; it was one of the conditions, one of the stimulants of -their pleasure, something to whet their appetite before the -performance._ - -_Even the holidays did not empty Paris very perceptibly, except on the -left bank of the Seine. From May to October, the majority of the -middle-class--small shopkeepers, functionaries, retired people, as well -as employees, clerks, and workers of every kind--contented themselves, -like Paul de Kock's heroes, with excursions and picnics in the various -Parisian suburbs--Vincennes, Montmorency, Saint-Cloud, Romainville, &c. -In Paris, shopkeepers laid the cloth for a meal out in the open air, in -the yard or garden, or, failing that, in the street. When I returned -from my Sunday walk, at the dinner-hour, between four and five in the -afternoon, I used to see, everywhere in the busiest streets, nothing but -families at table before their doors, while boys and girls played about -the road at shuttlecock, hot cockles, or blindman's buff. Occasionally, -I was caught as I passed by some little girl with bandaged eyes, who, in -order to recognise me, would feel my face, amid shouts of laughter from -all the diners. And if, during the long summer evenings, I went with my -companions to play at prisoners' base in the Rues de Vaugirard, or -d'Enfer, or on the small Saint-Michel Square, the good folk, enjoying -the fresh air on their doorsteps, paid no attention to us boys galloping -all over the street._ - -_In a word, Paris was no different from the country-town!_ - -[Illustration: DEMOLITION OF THE RUE SAINTE-HYACINTH-SAINT-MICHEL -Opposite to the Rue Soufflot -_Etching by Martial_] - -_These_ "bourgeois" _customs, which one might distinguish briefly by -saying that they were "eighteen-hundred-and-thirty customs" survived -till the 1848 Revolution, and persisted even into the Second Empire, -when railway extension, the influx of strangers, great industrial and -commercial enterprises, an increasing prosperity, the desire for comfort -and luxury, a more active public life, keener competition, and the -intenser struggle for life brought into existence our present customs -and manners. It was a surprising transformation, one which was no little -fostered by the creation of a new Paris on the ruins of the old. How -often have I congratulated myself on having, from the time when I was -fifteen years of age, devoted my holiday rambles to ferreting out, in -the old quarters of the city now cut through, parcelled up and -destroyed, the slightest vestiges of the past, as if I had foreseen -that, within a brief delay, they would be reduced to dust by the -demolisher's pick-axe._ - -_The Paris of Louis-Philippe was very nearly that of the Great -Revolution and the First Empire. Each step in it awoke souvenirs that -people thought but little of in my childhood, romanticism being more -interested in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and more inquisitive -about the massacre of Saint-Barthelemy than about those of September. It -looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Grève Square, but -gave no glance at the sign-post on the same Square, where the -unfortunate Foulon was hanged. It deplored the disappearance of the -Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orléans was -murdered, but did not suggest going to see, a few steps further, in the -Rue des Ballets, the post where Madame de Lamballe's corpse was -beheaded. Artists, novelists, poets, historians disdained these -localities still warm from the Revolutionary drama, some episodes of -which they claimed to relate. Ary Scheffer purports to show us the -arrest of Charlotte Corday; but does not care to consult documents of -the greatest exactitude that would have brought her before his eyes and -ours with just her face, her attitude, and her dress. He does not even -think to go to the Rue des Cordeliers and visit Marat's dwelling, still -remaining as it was, including his bell rope. And he offers us a -Charlotte of his own invention, cleverly painted, who looks like a -chambermaid arrested by the porter, just as she is going off with her -mistress's gown on her back!_ - -_In his_ "Stello," _Alfred de Vigny is quite as indifferent to local -colouring as he is to facts. He places André Chénier's scaffold "on the -Revolution Square" after taking him thither in a cart laden with more -than "eighty victims, among them being some women with children sucking -at the breast"!!!_ - -_It is the same with the rest!_ - -_Being more careful, I did not disdain the old stones that were humble -witnesses of deeds so great; and, thanks to them, I was able to live -through the Revolution again on the spot. They were fated to disappear. -A new city cannot be built except on the remains of the old; and it is -hard to reconcile the requirements of the present with the worship of -the past. Indeed most of the old things, even those that might be saved, -would have a sorry air amid the splendours of our modern City. What -grieves me is to find that they have often been replaced in such a way -as to cause one to regret their disappearance._ - -[Illustration: THE TOWN HALL IN 1838 -_Lithographed by Engelmann_] - -_As for the City, so called, it may be granted that the pulling down of -its old buildings, its dark alleys, could only give pain to those whose -passion is the picturesque, or to the admirers of the_ Mysteries of -Paris. _Yet one must confess that, framed in its old close, Notre-Dame -looked nobler than now at the end of a vast, desert space, where it -seems to be stupidly posing before a photographer's camera, between the -emptiness of the river and the frightful Town Hall, that might be taken -for a slaughter-house._ - -_Nor was it necessary, when displacing the flower-market, to forbid the -sellers' continuing the habit of improvising those pretty bowers of -foliage and flowers, and to impose on them those zinc roofs that should -shelter only artificial blooms,--not at all necessary, simply to -complete the charm of the present administrative arbour._ - -_It might have also been possible to avoid cutting through the Dauphine -Square, which I have seen in my time as charming as the Place Royale, -with its pink bricks, since all we have in return is the -funereal-looking structure forming the entrance of the Palais de Justice -and the horrible balustrade of its staircase._ - -_Since my chance stroll has brought me to the Pont-Neuf I may just as -well pursue in this direction my retrospective way._ - -[Illustration: THE PONT-NEUF ABOUT 1850 -_Water-colour by Th. Masson_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -_The Pont-Neuf which is newer than ever, may be congratulated on the -loss of its high foot-pavements, its shoeblacks, dog shearers, and cat -doctors squatting among its pillars, and its haberdashers, stationers, -perfumers, fried-potato men and matchsellers, whose stalls, set up in -the semi-circular projections of the bridge, have been pulled down, -together with the old sentry-boxes that sheltered them, to make room for -the benches of the present day. But what vandalism--the whitewashing of -the two brick houses that face Henry IV.'s statue! They were built for -the site they occupy. They are an integral part of the bridge, and -contribute greatly to its adornment. If the owners, who have already -whitewashed them, take it into their heads to replace them by so-so -sort of constructions, it will mean the spoiling of one of the prettiest -sights of Old Paris._ - -_Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois, too, might have been spared the proximity of -the tower which pretends to be Gothic, and of the Mairie which believes -itself Renaissance. In their company, the church loses all its grace, -and the group is ridiculous._ - -_At least, when turning one's back, one has the satisfaction no longer -to see in front of the Colonnade a waste ground surrounded with rotten -palings. Only crosses were lacking to give the place the appearance of a -cemetery._ - -_And, as a matter of fact, it was one!_ - -[Illustration: THE LOUVRE ABOUT 1785 -_Drawn by Meunier_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -_In the Restoration period, where now the equestrian statue of Velasquez -stands, Egyptian mummies had been buried--mummies that had become -decomposed, through too long sojourning in the damp ground-floor rooms -of the Louvre. In 1830, in the same spot, the corpses of the assailants -killed in the attack on the Louvre were hastily cast into a common -grave. Ten years later, when it was desired to give these brave fellows -a nobler sepulture, patriots and mummies were dug up pell-mell; and now -contemporaries of the Pharaohs lie piously buried beneath the column of -the Bastille, side by side with the July heroes._ - -_I knew the courtyard of the Louvre when it had a statue of the Duke of -Orléans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clésinger succeeding -it. Some fool or other having nicknamed it the "Sire de Framboisy," the -joke was too idiotic not to have the greatest success. And to the -nickname is partly due the disappearance of a work of art that deserved -a better fate._ - -_No description can give any idea of what the Carrousel Square was then, -in the intermediate state to which it was condemned, after the First -Empire, by the joining of the Louvre to the Tuileries, which joining was -still unachieved, though always being planned and replanned. It was -nothing but a medley of half-destroyed streets, isolated houses half -pulled-down and shored up with beams. The unpaved, uneven, broken ground -was a veritable bog in rainy weather. The great gallery of the Louvre -was flanked with an ugly wooden corridor, for ever ready to flare up! -For, as tradition has it, there is always some permanent risk of fire -in the vicinity of the Museum! On the same side, the Civil Service -had run up temporary buildings which, from the small courtyard of the -Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Pères bridge, enclosed the ruins of -the ancient church of Saint-Thomas-du-Louvre and its dependencies, such -as the Priory where Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Nanteuil, -Arsène Houssaye, and others, had established their "Bohème galante." -These buildings, in favour of which extenuating circumstances might be -pleaded, were hired out to colour, engraving, picture, and -curiosity-dealers of all kinds. I still see a large shop of knick-knacks -where, among a most amusing collection of ostriches' eggs, stuffed -crocodiles, and Red-Skins' heads of hair, the amateur used to come -across wonderful bargains. And what riches also in the cases exposed by -engraving-dealers in front of their doors to the curiosity of those -interested in such things! Besides the engravings, there were lots of -drawings, sketches, red crayon designs, water-colours by Cochin, Moreau, -Boucher, Lawrence, Fragonard, Saint-Aubin, Proudhon, Boilly, Isabey, &c. -I have passed there delightful hours, looking through such cases, the -contents of which, alas! I could only admire, being unable to afford to -buy masterpieces which I felt would have a future value, and which were -then sold for a mere song, the pedants of David's school despising the -French art of the eighteenth century, it being too amiable and witty for -their taste. "Sir," said one of these dealers later to me, "I have -rolled up before now engravings of Poussin, for which I would not pay -two francs to-day, in other engravings of Debucourt that I would not -sell to-day for a thousand francs!"_ - -_All this was swept away by the amalgamation of the two Palaces and the -prolonging of the Rue de Rivoli, which has, moreover, endowed us with a -very fine Square in front of the Palais Royal, in lieu of the old one, -so mean, with its fountain of water, decorative enough but all blackened -with dirt and slime._ - -[Illustration: THE GARDEN OF THE PALAIS ROYAL IN 1791 -_"Gouache" by the Chevalier de Lespinasse_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -_As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orléans seemed to have had -built, so that it might be the Forum of the Revolution, if it was no -longer the rendezvous of politicians, clubmen, gazetteers, open-air -orators, and stock-jobbers, the battlefield of 1793 Republicans and -fops, of Royalists and half-pay soldiers, the official promenade for -the Merveilleuses, and courtesans of all degrees, if it no longer had -its wooden galleries, its Tartar camp, its Dutch grotto, its gambling -hells, it was still the headquarters of the nymphs of the neighbourhood; -and, thanks to its two theatres, its eating-houses, its renowned -coffee-houses, its rich shops, especially those of the jewellers, it was -still the central point of attraction in Paris for newcomers from the -country and abroad. With the least shower, it was impossible to walk -about beneath its porticoes; and, in all weathers, especially on -Sunday--the day of meeting_ par excellence--_there were crowds in the -glass-covered arcade where, quite recently, I found myself -alone--absolutely alone!_ - -[Illustration: THE COURTYARD OF THE CARROUSEL AND THE MUSEUMS ABOUT 1848 -_Etching by Martial_] - -_What shall I say of the Tuileries Palace, except that it once was and -is no more? How I regret the magnificent shades of its grand avenue, -unrivalled even at Versailles, and its clumps of chestnuts that braved -the ardent sun rays! Nature alone is to blame for their disappearance, -but they might have been replaced by trees less pitiable than the -inevitable plane and acacia, which latter, without its flowers, is -really the silliest and ugliest of trees. It promises a fine foliage for -the future, if the future of this unfortunate garden is not to be -totally suppressed, or at least to be broken up into lots!_ - -[Illustration: THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE -_Original drawing by G. de Saint-Aubin_ (George Cain Collection)] - -_Time was when I have seen the Place de la Concorde without its -fountains and its statues, save the four horses of Marly--those of -Coysevox at the gate of the Tuileries, those of Coustou at the entrance -to the Champs-Elysées. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns -of France were being restored. Since the days of Louis XV., they had -been decked with plaster caps, like saucepan lids, and were despised so -much that the one bearing the town of Strasburg was flanked with a base -stove-pipe. Anyway, it was the only one that shocked one's eyes. Count -those at present that crown the monuments of Gabriel! Round the Square -the ditches still remained, which on fête days had already made so many -victims through the hindrance they offered to the crowd's getting away. -One evenings when some fireworks were being let off on the Concorde -bridge in honour of the King's birthday, I had only just time enough to -take refuge on one of their balustrades, whence I was nearly thrown down -into the moat by those that followed my example._ - -_The obelisk had just been erected in the centre of the Square, where -its only justification was the fact of its having extricated the July -Monarchy from an embarrassing position. The authorities did not know -where to put it so as to conciliate everybody's opinion. The old stone -monument, indifferent to all parties, was a fitting symbol of their -Concord._ - -_The Champs-Elysées are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under -Louis-Philippe! The avenue was not then, like the Boulevard des -Italiens, the meeting-place for what was called, in foolish Anglomania, -"Fashion." Ices were not drunk there as on Tortoni's steps. Society -dames and gentlemen passed along it only on horseback or in a carriage, -contemptuously abandoning the side-ways to the more modest walkers, the -small folk, who elbowed each other in the dust, to strollers, idlers, -strangers, convalescents, scholars, nurses, soldiers, players at ball or -prisoners' base on the Marigny Square, and to the innumerable urchins -that disputed with each other the goat-carts and shouted for joy in -front of the Punch-and-Judy shows!_ - -_In the way of coffee-houses, there were only three pavilions, all -unworthy of the name, little ambulating drinking-stalls on trestles, -with decanters of lemonade and barley-water, and the cocoanut-beverage -sellers shaking their bell; the only eating-houses were two wretched -wine-shops, and the places where Nanterre cakes, gingerbread, and wafers -could be bought from dealers that stood and sold their wares while -springing their rattle. For concerts, there were the fiddlers, -guitarists, and harpists, the singers of popular songs and the man who -was a band in himself; in the way of entertainments, before the opening -of the Mabille Garden, there were Franconi's summer circus, Colonel -Langlois' panorama, the swings, merry-go-rounds, and archery galleries, -the Dutch top, and the game from Siam. As illumination, there were a few -gas-lamps, the candles used by stall-keepers, and the red lanterns -exhibited by orange-women. And with all this, not a bit of lawn, not a -clump of trees, not a bed of flowers!--nothing, absolutely nothing, of -what to-day constitutes this exquisite promenade._ - -_Paris ended at the Rond-Point!_ - -_Beyond, it was only a sort of faubourg, with a fine mansion here and -there belonging to the previous century, a large garden, land unbuilt on -to be sold, tenant houses, sorry-enough-looking, furniture -repositories, coach-houses, riding-schools, and carriage-builders' -premises--particularly carriage-builders'! Near the Rue Chaillot, the -Avenue was bordered, on the left, with a broad turf embankment. I have -seen, in the fine-weather season, diners cutting up their melon and -leg-of-mutton on it, with the naïve joy of city folk enjoying the purer -field air._ - -[Illustration: PATROL ROAD LEADING FROM THE BARRIER OF THE ETOILE IN -1854 -(To-day the Avenue de Wagram.) _Etching by Martial_] - -_In the vicinity of the Arc de Triomphe, the Avenue was lonelier and -ill-inhabited, and, as soon as one crossed the barrier of the Etoile, it -was no longer the faubourg but the suburbs. Instead of the fine avenues -of the Bois and of Victor Hugo, only waste grounds were to be seen, -market-gardeners' patches, quarries and uncanny-looking, tumble-down -buildings. As for the Bois de Boulogne itself, it was so ugly by day and -so dangerous by night that the less there is said about it the better._ - -_On the right, the Roule quarter was more civilised; but beyond, towards -Mousseaux, such was not the case. One evening, out of curiosity, I went -to see the house that Balzac had just had built in the street bearing -his name. Afterwards, by chance, I strolled into this Ternes quarter, -which was unknown to me. Night came on and I soon lost my way. On my -left, I had a big, rascally wall which seemed endless, and, in the light -of the pale gas-lamps, separated by long distances, I saw on my right -nothing but stables, workyards, dairy outhouses, exhaling odours of -poultry and dung, and red-curtained, low-character eating-houses which -reminded me that, at the same hour, a professor whom I knew had been -collared by a big blackguard that exclaimed to him: "Your money, you -scamp!" My friend was smoking a cigar. Being sly, like the wise Ulysses, -he pretended to comply by putting his left hand into his waistcoat -pocket, while, with his right, he took the cigar from his mouth, knocked -off the ashes with his little finger, and stuck it right in the eye of -the footpad, who loosed him with a howl that Polyphemus might have -uttered! This souvenir haunted me; and, after traversing a wretched -hamlet, in which I was guided only by the slope of the ground, I at last -breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pépinière, promising -myself that I would never again venture into such a cut-throat -locality._ - -_And yet I live in it now!_ - -_This cut-throat locality is to-day the Monceau quarter, the Avenue -Hoche, the Avenue de Messine, the Courcelles, Malesherbes and Haussmann -Boulevards; what was once called "Poland" where General Lagrange used to -tell me he had shot partridges in his youth._ - -_And the conclusion of this chat--for I must conclude--is that I regret -the old Paris, but that I am fond of the new._ - - VICTORIEN SARDOU. - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -Paris! What visions this magic word calls up--historic Paris, with its -palaces, churches, monuments, streets, and squares; the Paris of -literature and its admirable procession of writers, poets, thinkers, -dramatists, philosophers, and humourists; the Paris of society, its -fêtes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of -politicians, the Paris of journalists, religious Paris, the Paris of the -police, bohemian Paris, industrial Paris. And how many others still! - -So many passions, events, and interests clash, mingle, and unravel again -in it that a study on this admirable and complex city is no sooner -finished than it is almost needful to write it over again, the truth of -the day before being no longer that of the morrow, the accurate document -of yesterday being found incorrect this morning. - -Our ambition is more modest, and our title indicates a programme--"Nooks -and Corners of Paris." - -Deliberately neglecting that which is too well known, already too much -described--having neither the desire nor the pretension to compose a -"Guide-book for the Foreigner in Paris"; seeking only the rare, if not -the never-yet-brought-to-light--we would simply give to those who, like -us, adore our old City a little of the joy we have each day in -"strolling" about this incomparable Town. Our object is to continue, by -means of walks through what remains to us of the dear old Paris, the -series of documents painted, pencilled, or engraved which are contained -in the Carnavalet Museum. - -The house that Madame de Sévigné loved so much has, in fact, become the -museum of the historical collections of the French Capital. - -[Illustration: THE CARNAVALET MUSEUM] - -It is a delightful nook in which still throbs a little of the old soul -of the great City! Our predecessors and we ourselves have striven to -gather together the documents of every kind that bear traces of Paris -life. Charters, plans, engravings, pictures, autographs, faded placards, -and commemorative stones; sign-boards in wrought-iron that guided -drinkers of the sixteenth century to the various public-houses; -shot-silk costumes worn by pretty Parisian women of the time of Louis -XV.; red caps of the age of Terror; girdles that girls adorned -themselves with around the funeral car of Voltaire; tricolour-bowed -shoes that trod the soil of the Champ de Mars at the moment of the -Federation Feast; the light, black tulle kerchief worn by -Marie-Antoinette when going to sit for her portrait to Dumont the -miniaturist; the woman-citizen's pike or sabre of honour; the -commemorative stone of the Bastille; Grisettes' caps of the year 1830 or -buskins worn by the Merveilleuses; the warrant for the appearance of -"Widow Capet" before the Revolutionary Tribunal; a play-bill of the -King's great dancers, and convocations to the sittings of the -Convention; the great periods of the Kings, the glorious days of the -Revolution, the tragedies of the Terror, the proclamations of the -Empire; announcements of victories, requiem masses, joys, griefs, the -life in fine of the most impressionable, most nervous, most enthusiastic -people that has ever existed--all is found at Carnavalet; and the same -case or folio, gathering together, with terrible eclecticism, the -lightning succession of events that took place on the same spot, shows -us, for a lapse of scarcely twenty years and in the same Tuileries, for -instance, the arrival of Louis XVI., the capture of the castle on the -10th of August, the execution of the King, then of the Queen, the Feast -of the Supreme Being, Thermidor, Prairial and the invasion of the -Convention, the sections annihilated at Saint-Roch by Bonaparte, the -Carrousel reviews, the apotheosis of the King of Rome, the departure of -the Emperor, the arrival of Louis XVIII., his flight, the return of -Napoleon, the coming back of Louis XVIII., &c. - -That, I fancy, is a serious lesson of history--and of philosophy. - -Our aim, I repeat, is therefore simply to continue in a few walks, which -we will try to render as attractive as possible, the search for -documents which, alas! are disappearing more and more every day. - -We will divide Paris into three great sections--the old City and the -Isle of St. Louis; the left bank of the Seine; the right bank of the -same river. - -After the document written or pencilled, the living document, or at -least what remains of it. - -This volume "Nooks and Corners of Paris" is, in great part, the -re-edition of a work entitled, "Sketches of Old Paris," printed only in -a very small number of copies and published in 1904 with equal elegance -and taste by Conard. - -Since then, the volume has been not only revised and added to, but new -illustrations were chosen. An artist of great talent, Monsieur Tony -Beltrand--too soon, alas! taken away from us by death--had adorned the -"Sketches of Old Paris" with a number of admirable compositions, of -which, moreover, he had been the clever engraver. We have been compelled -to replace these illustrations by a series of reproductions of pictures, -designs, etchings, and lithographs borrowed from private collections, -museums, libraries--and our very pleasant duty is to remark on the -exceeding good grace with which every one has helped us. May our -gratitude be allowed to mention the names of Messieurs Sardou, Claretie, -Detaille, Lavedan, Lenôtre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. -Meignan, Massenet, Pigoreau, Ch. Drouet, de Rochegude, Beaurepaire, Ch. -Sellier, J. Robiquet, our masters or our friends, not forgetting many, -besides, who have lent us most precious aid. Indeed, when Paris is in -question, all doors open and all hearts beat. - -Our task was an easy one, and, if we have not been able to discharge it -better, the fault is ours alone. A suitable termination, therefore, to -this introduction will be the old formula--more than ever -apropos--"Excuse the faults of the author." - -[Illustration: THE PONT-ROYAL, THE TUILERIES, AND THE LOUVRE (18th -CENTURY) -(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) _Noël, pinxit._] - - - - -[Illustration: _Etching by Martial_] - - - - -THE OLD CITY - - -Paris was born in the Isle of the Seine, whose shape is that of a -cradle, and of which Sauval speaks so picturesquely: "The isle of the -City is fashioned like a great ship sunk in the slime and stranded at -the surface of the water, in the middle of the Seine." - -This particularity must certainly have struck the heraldists of every -age, and from it comes the vessel that is blazoned on the old escutcheon -of Paris. - -So the City presents itself with its prow to the west and its poop to -the east. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE PONT-NEUF, TAKEN FROM AN OVAL WINDOW IN THE -COLONNADE OF THE LOUVRE -_Water-colour by Nicolle_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -The poop is Notre-Dame, and the prow, joined to the two banks by two -ropes of stone, is the old Pont-Neuf, raised on the extreme end of what -was formerly the islet of the Cow-Ferryman, where, on the 11th of March -1314, were burnt Jacques de Molay, Grand-Master of the Templars, and -Guy, Prior of Normandy,--the Pont-Neuf, the foundation of which was laid -by Henri III. on the 31st of May 1578, and was decorated with the -coats-of-arms of the King, the Queen-Mother, and the Town of Paris. When -the first pile emerged from the water, on the side of the Quay of the -Augustines, the King betook himself thither from the Louvre in a -magnificent barque, accompanied by the Queen-Mother, Catherine de -Medici, and by Queen Louise de Vaudemont, his wife. Henri III. looked -melancholy; on the same morning, he had interred, in the Church of St. -Paul Quélus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds -received, some weeks before, in the famous duel of the Minions. - -The irreverent Parisians did not hesitate to declare that, out of -respect for the Royal sadness, the new bridge ought to be called "the -Bridge of Tears." But this opinion did not last; and, as soon as Henri -IV. had inaugurated it, in June 1603, "still unsafe" and unachieved, the -Pont-Neuf became the gayest place in Paris. Mondor sold his balsam -there, and Tabarin spouted his idle talk; there it was that the ape -of Brioché amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were -hummed; there that duellists unsheathed their swords, and the bands of -Cartouche and Mandrin gallantly relieved pedestrians of their purses. On -the merry Pont-Neuf all Paris took their airings, enjoyed themselves, -made appointments; Loret went there to gather information for the -_Rhyming Gazette_:-- - - "If I this week had been the man - To visit the Samaritan, - From Jack and Tom I should have heard - Everything that has occurred...." - -From the seventeenth century, it was asserted to be impossible to cross -the twelve arches of the popular bridge without meeting a monk, a white -horse, and two obliging women. It was the official route for Royal -processions proceeding to the Parliament; and, at the Pont-Neuf, rioters -assembled when going to burn in effigy, on the Dauphine Square, such -Presidents as were suspected of rendering more services than judicial -decisions. Here also, in 1789, the people compelled those who were in -carriages to stop and bow low to the effigy of good King Henri, whose -statue, supported at the four angles by the four figures of slaves that -Richelieu had had placed there, stood in the middle of the raised space -where, in 1792, were signed the voluntary enlistments, and where the -cannon resounded, calling to arms, at tragical moments of the -Revolution. The whole history of Paris has to do with the wonderful old -Pont-Neuf, celebrated throughout the world, the masterpiece of Androuet -du Cerceau and of Germain Pilon--the Pont-Neuf which was the main -thoroughfare of ancient Paris. - -[Illustration: WORKSHOPS AND FOUNDATIONS OF THE CITY BARRACKS -IN 1864-1865 -_Photographed by Richebourg, 29 Quai de L'Horloge_] - -It is therefore by the Old City that our walks should commence. We shall -come across some rare vestiges of the primitive Lutecia. On several -occasions, behind the apse of Notre-Dame, fragments of ramparts have -been found, and some of the stones forming these antique defences are -discovered to have been taken from the arenas constructed by the Romans. -The benches of the circus had contributed to check the Norman invasion; -does not the wall of Pericles on the Acropolis contain broken fragments -of antique marble statues?... - -But the glory of the City is Notre-Dame! Let us follow the winding, -picturesque Rue Chanoinesse, where the great Balzac lodged Madame de la -Chanterie, and, at No. 18, let us climb the tottering staircase of the -Dagobert Tower, an old and precious débris of the canonical buildings -that once enclosed the Cathedral of Paris. A few dozen worn-down steps -will bring us to a narrow platform whence we shall behold an admirable -sight. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF NOTRE-DAME -_J. C. Nattes, del._] - -Notre-Dame, radiantly beautiful, rises, like a large stone flower, from -a mass of flat roofs, grey or blue, and the majestic outlines of its -towers stand out in their immensity against the horizon. Beneath every -caprice of the hour or light, whether the sun gilds this splendour or -its carvings are mantled in snow, while a carpet of spotless flakes -stretches below, whether the flaming sky frames its violet bulk in -melting gold or the storm wraps it in its copper clouds, ever the noble -Cathedral appears in its shining beauty and unsurpassed grandeur. The -elegant spire that completes it shoots clearly and proudly into the air, -and flights of crows whirl, with shrill cawings, round the blossoming -roofs of the Paris Basilica. Over there, above a dazzling view of -carvings, chimneys, gables, bridges, steeples, and streets, the far-off -azures melt into soft tints, and finally mingle, on the horizon, in a -vague colouring; the beasts of the Apocalypse, which the talented -artists of times gone by poised on the tower balustrades, bend -grimacingly and jeeringly over the vast Paris that feverishly lives and -moves below! It is one of the noblest sights of the Tower that our -enchanted eyes have just gazed upon. - -On the other side, it is the Seine, a silver streak furrowed with boats -and barges; then, further on, the noble outlines of the old Paris, and, -marking its profiles on the low clouds, in the foreground, Saint-Gervais -and Saint-Protais, an antique and precious sanctuary of the sixteenth -century, one of the few remaining that preserve the secret charm of -those country churches in which the soul feels itself, within the -demi-obscurity of their chapels, more devout, more touched, and closer -to the infinite, beneath the painted windows darkened by the dust of -centuries and the smoke of incense. - -In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hôtel-Dieu, before -reaching the Palais de Justice, one formerly came across a labyrinth of -winding, narrow, evil-smelling streets--the Rue de la Juiverie, the Rue -aux Fèves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries -this quarter had been the haunt of the lowest prostitution; there, too, -dyers had established their many-coloured tubs; and blue, red, or green -streams flowed down these streets with their old Parisian names. Humble -chapels nestled under the eaves of Notre-Dame,--Sainte-Marine, -Saint-Pierre-aux-Boeufs, and Saint-Jean-le-Rond, in which last -d'Alembert was buried. The Hôtel-Dieu opened on the right of the -Cathedral, and formed, with the close of Notre-Dame, a really imposing -setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hôtel-Dieu -and the Prefecture of Police; and these two ugly structures, without -taste or originality, seem to be the natural foils of France's national -glory, Notre-Dame-de-Paris. - -In the Rue Massillon, at the back of a stone porch which time has -covered with moss, a tiny courtyard opens, at No. 6, over whose damp -pavement occasionally passes a Sister of Charity in her white cap; an -old, monumental, wooden staircase, dating back to Henri IV., leads there -to some poor dwellings in a building up this courtyard. Within this -humble, provincial-looking house, half monastic in appearance, who would -believe himself in the heart of Paris, a few yards away from the Town -Hall and the Prefecture of Police? Gone the "Cloister," whose gardens at -the bottom were still in existence seven years ago. A huge, hideous -structure, resembling a barracks, to-day hides all the apse of -Notre-Dame, and the antique "Motte-aux-Papelards," the ordinary -meeting-place for the staff of the Metropolis, is replaced by a square, -a sort of open-roofed museum, where the bits of carving are arranged -that time, or regrettable though necessary restorations, have detached -from the Cathedral. - -[Illustration: THE "PETIT-PONT" -_Etching by Meryon_] - -Along the Rue de la Colombe passed the Gallo-Roman belt of the City, -near the house inhabited by Fulbert, the uncle who employed such cruel -arguments with the unfortunate Héloïse, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des -Ursins, at No. 19, may still be perceived the remains of a chapel of the -twelfth century, by name Saint-Aignan; St. Bernard is said to have -preached in it. It was one of the numerous sanctuaries in which, during -the Terror, refractory priests, under the most singular -disguises--water-carriers, national guards, waggoners, masons--came, as -they passed through the town, to say mass almost regularly to the -faithful, who were frightened neither by the guillotine, nor Fouquier's -trackers, nor the Revolutionary Committees' order-bearers. It is an -astonishing thing that not for a single day or hour was religious -ministration wanting to those who called for it, not even in the -Terror's most terrible period. At this time, the Bishop of Agde, -disguised as a costermonger, with a long beard, and carrying the -sacrament under his carmagnole, scoured Paris, officiating, and -confessing people in lofts, outhouses, and back-shops. In the Rue -Neuve-des-Capucins, mass was said in a chamber above the very dwelling -occupied by the terrible Conventional Baboeuf. - -Did not the Abbé Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths -of his dungeon, where he strengthened the courage of the prisoners ("he -prevents them from crying out," said Fouquier-Tinville), organise -throughout the Paris prisons a ministry of monks that visited all the -sinister gaols, disguised as porters, old clothes-dealers, laundrymen, -wine-sellers? Even on the way to the scaffold, the unfortunates that -were being led to execution received the aid of religion: as the -death-carts passed by, from certain windows indicated beforehand, -priests, placed there, wafted to the condemned the absolution pronounced -over the dying. - -Let us go to the other side of the close of Notre-Dame, where the -Hôtel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower -of the Foundlings, and the Cagnards, that old den of debauch of which -Meryon has left us such powerful etchings, and before which, as a child, -we were accustomed to stop with dread, while we watched the huge rats -that hid and roamed there, appearing in broad daylight and eating the -heaps of offal. - -[Illustration: THE OLD PREFECTURE OF POLICE -(Formerly Jerusalem Street) -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -Between Notre-Dame and the Palais de Justice, there once existed a -network of small streets round the Sainte-Chapelle and the Prefecture of -Police, with gardens that ran nearly down to the water's edge. At the -Pont Saint-Michel, some old houses still remain which witnessed the -riots of 1793, 1830, and 1848; another is to be found on the Quai des -Orfèvres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist -who modestly called himself the "people's tooth-drawer." To-day it is -one of the spots dear to lovers of old books, with its open-air -book-stalls, and also to anglers, who, in the sun and out of the way of -the river passenger-boats, can practise their tranquil sport. - -Before describing the Conciergerie, let us cross the Cour du Mai; there -it was, in front of the steps leading to the Palais de Justice, on the -right, that every day the death-carts came during the Terror, and took, -at 4 o'clock, their dismal batch of those doomed to death, while, from -his office-window, Fouquier-Tinville coldly counted, as he picked his -teeth, the number of the victims who were going over there. - -From this courtyard of blood, on a foggy day of November 1793, poor -Madame Roland, with hair cut and hands tied, started for the scaffold. -Her joyous childhood had been spent in a red-and-white brick house -which stood at the angle of the Quai de l'Horloge and the platform of -the Pont-Neuf, a few yards from the Conciergerie! - -[Illustration: THE SAINTE-CHAPELLE IN 1875 -_Etching by Toussaint_] - -The charming landscape in which she had dreamed so fondly of glory and -liberty, she saw once more as she was being led to the guillotine amid -the shouts of infuriated men and women. Sanson had taken his ghastly -procession along the usual road--the Pont-au-Change, the Quai de la -Mégisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the -further bank of the Seine, the poor woman, before she died, was able to -give a last look at the scenery she had been familiar with in happier -years, scenery over which rose the massive walls of the French -Panthéon--it was the new name of Sainte-Geneviève's Church which the -Convention had just re-baptized and devoted to the worship of our -national glories. - -The Conciergerie was entered by a large arched door, containing a triple -wicket as protection, at the further side of a gloomy, narrow courtyard, -with mouldy paving-stones, which now is found on the right of the large -staircase of the Palais de Justice. - -The nine steps that put it on a level with the Cour du Mai were mounted -by all the condemned victims of the Revolution. The Queen and Charlotte -Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubért's widow, the virtuous Bailly and -Madame du Bailly, Fouquier-Tinville and Monsieur de Malesherbes, Danton, -Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, the Abbess of Montmartre, Madame -de Monaco and Anacharsis Clootz: princesses and Conventional, dukes -and Hébertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the -noblest, purest, bravest, the maddest and most miserable crossed this -fateful threshold. - -Sanson, with his death-lists in hand, waited at the top of the -staircase, in front of the carts. - -[Illustration: OPENING UP OF THE SPACE IN FRONT OF THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE -_Meunier, pinxit_] - -The guillotine "tricoteuses" and criers thronged the top-steps of the -Palace and leaned forward, with shouts and abuse, and often with hand -that cast filth, over the unhappy prisoners. The melancholy toilet of -the condemned had been effected in the rotunda where the concierge had -his quarters, near the small whitewashed room in which the clerk -registered the arrival of the newcomers, and to which Sanson came to -give his receipt for the successive deliveries of those that he conveyed -to execution. - -The clerk's arm-chair, and his table laden with registers, took up about -half of the narrow room. Sorts of desks placed along the wall sufficed -to receive the things which prisoners left behind, their sad relics, the -hair that had been cut off. A wooden railing separated the clerk's -office, properly so called, from a back portion of it, where these -prisoners spent the weary hours that intervened before the fatal -summons, so that those entering could talk with them. Fierce dogs came -smelling round to recognise a master, mistress, or acquaintance, and -friends or relatives could try to obtain from the gaoler's pity bits of -news concerning dear ones still shut up in the dark prison. - -"On the day of my arrival," wrote Beugnot in his Memoirs, "two men were -waiting for the coming of the headsman. They were stripped of their -garments, and already had their hair thinned out and their neck -prepared. Their features were not changed. Either by accident or with -design, they held their hands in the position ready to be tied, and were -essaying attitudes of firmness and disdain. Mattresses down on the floor -revealed that they had spent their night in the place, had already -undergone this long punishment. By their side, were seen the remains of -the meal they had eaten. Their clothes were flung here and there; and -two candles that they had forgotten to extinguish cast back the daylight -and seemed to be the sole funereal illumination of the scene." - -In the hundreds of "Prison Souvenirs" which were published immediately -after the fall of Robespierre, one may gain an idea of what sort of -existence prisoners led, deprived of every necessity, devoured by -vermin, brutally treated by drunken or cruel keepers; and one should see -the gloomy courtyard where they came to get a breath of fresh air, a -narrow triangular space of ground between the walls of the prison and -the women's yard. This arrangement had one compensation; a simple iron -railing separated the two enclosures, so that friends could exchange -looks and language, and even the last kiss and embrace. - -[Illustration: THE COUR DES FILLES IN THE CONCIERGERIE -_Schaan, pinxit_] - -This railing still exists, black, rusty, and ill-looking, creaking as of -yore; and it is not difficult to conjure up the images of those that -bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cécile Renaud, Lucile -Desmoulins, Madame de Montmorency, and Charlotte Corday touched it with -their dresses; and Du Barry, one of the few women who trembled at the -prospect of death--"A minute longer, headsman"--also clung to it! - -This railing, the so-called chapel of the Girondins, the passage called -the "Rue de Paris," the small infirmary, and the Queen's dungeon are, -together with the barred cell in which women awaited execution, the sole -vestiges of the ancient prison. Farther on, a big wall, newly raised, -shuts off the dismal route along which the condemned passed, and closes -up the former entrance to the registrar's office in the Conciergerie. - -Let us take a hasty walk round the Prison, alas! modified and -rearranged. Let us pause, however, before the door of the dungeon in -which Marie Antoinette was confined during the last thirty-five days of -her life. - -The Restoration, which assumed the task of sweeping away many things, -began with this melancholy place. Abominable coloured panes have been -put in the more than half-blocked up and carefully barred window from -behind which the Queen, whose eyes had suffered from the damp prison and -want of care, tried to obtain a little air and light. - -Only the flooring of this room, three yards by five, is intact. A low -screen once divided it off from the chamber where two prison gendarmes -were continually on guard. There, the unfortunate woman pined, in lack -of everything, a prey to anxiety, without news of her family, reduced to -borrow the linen she required from the kindness of Richard, the porter. -Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorlière, who, "not -daring to make her a single curtsey for fear of compromising or -afflicting her," threw over her shoulders a white linen handkerchief, an -hour before her departure to the scaffold. - -In striking contrast, this dungeon is separated only by a thin partition -from the apothecary's room, whither Robespierre--with fractured, hanging -jaw, his stockings down over his ankles on account of his varicose -sores, still clad in the fine, blue suit that, a few weeks previously, -at the Fête of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous--was hustled, -all over blood and mud, like a hideous bundle. - -Sinister-looking, silent, showing no signs of life save by the twinges -of pain he was suffering, impassible in presence of the insults of the -cowards who had acclaimed him the day before, the "Incorruptible one" -waited for them to come and tie him, panting, to the top of the cart -that should convey him, amid the cries of a whole population, to the -foot of the guillotine. - -Above these dungeons, and connected with them by a narrow, winding -staircase, sat the terrible Revolutionary Tribunal in public audience. -Strangely enough, there is an almost total lack of documents as to this -most interesting corner of the Palace, where such great dramas were -played. - -[Illustration: THE TRIUMPH OF MARAT -_Fragment of a picture by Boilly_ (Lille Museum)] - -A picture by Boilly--_The Triumph of Marat_--which figures in the Lille -Museum, shows us, however, the entrance to the Revolutionary Tribunal. - -The popular tribune, after his acquittal, issues in triumph from the -hall, frantically cheered by his habitual escort of criers and -adherents! - -At the back, between two pillars, and underneath a bass-relief -representing the Law, a sort of forepart in boards opens, with an -inscription on it, "Revolutionary Tribunal!" That is the place. - -The hall in which the Queen, the Girondins, and Madame Roland were -tried, was called _The Hall of Liberty_. In another, called _The Hall of -Equality_, appeared Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Westermann, Hubert, and -Charlotte Corday. The windows overlooked the Quai de l'Horloge; and -tradition relates that the echoes of Danton's powerful voice, when he -was on trial, penetrated through the open casements to the anxious crowd -massed on the other side of the Seine. - -The last alterations carried out in this part of the Palais de Justice -have, alas! disturbed and changed everything; so that, of the -registrar's office, occupied by Richard and de Bault, which ought to -have remained sacred for ever, and of the unique exit from the Prison, -where such heartrending adieux were witnessed, and of the antechamber of -death, whose pavement was trodden by the condemned of all parties, -nothing is left to-day! - -Administrative vandals have turned it into the Palace restaurant; and -cold meat, beer, and lemonade are sold in it. A telephone has been -installed, and a "coffee filter"! Gaunt spindle-trees struggle in vain -to thrive in the sombre, narrow courtyard illustrious for its past -scenes of agony! As Paul-Louis Courier used to repeat: _Immane nefas._ - -[Illustration: THE DAUPHINE SQUARE IN 1780 -_Drawing by Duché de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)_] - -At the rear of the Palais de Justice was formerly the delightful -Dauphine Square, where the first "Public Exhibitions of Youth" were -held, the exhibits being works of artists not belonging to the official -Academies. The Carnavalet Museum possesses a most amusing pencil -drawing, signed "Duché de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this -manuscript inscription: "Picturesque view of the Exhibition of paintings -and drawings, on the Dauphine Square, the day of the lesser Corpus -Christi feast." As a matter of fact, on the Sunday of the Corpus -Christi, "when it did not rain," artists had the authorisation--in the -morning--to submit their works to the public; if it did rain--and this -was the case in 1783--the fête was adjourned to the following Thursday. -The pictures were exposed in the northern corner of the Square, on white -hangings fixed by the shopkeepers in front of their shops; and the -Exhibition extended on to the bridge as far as opposite the good Henri's -statue. Oudry, Restout, de Troy, Grimoud, Boucher, Nattier, Louis -Tocqué, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an -excellent study devoted to these Exhibitions of Youth, Monsieur Prosper -Dorbec details the works that Chardin took to this ephemeral Salon of -the Dauphine Square. In 1728, when he was twenty-nine, he presented -there two masterpieces, _The Ray-fish_ and _The Side-board_, which -to-day are two of the glories of the French School at the Louvre Museum. -Up to the time of the Revolution, this little artistic manifestation -roused Parisian enthusiasm; and what a pretty sight must have been -offered by the Dauphine Square, and the pink fronts of the two corner -houses and the old Pont-Neuf--an exquisite, picturesque setting--with -the throng of amateurs, saunterers, critics, fine ladies, artists, -amiable models in light-coloured costume, full of mirth and busy talk, -eagerly gazing, on a mild May morning, at the freshly-hung canvases of -the Minor Exhibitors of the Dauphine Square. - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -THE ISLE OF SAINT-LOUIS - - -The Isle of Saint-Louis is, in some sort, the continuation of the old -City. It is a kind of provincial town in Paris. The streets are silent -and deserted; there are no shops, no promenaders, no business; a few old -aristocratic mansions, with their tall façades, their emblazoned -pediments and their severe architecture, alone tell the glorious past of -this noble quarter. - -The finely carved spire of Saint-Louis' Church confers an elegance on -the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orléans and Bethune contain -vast buildings of grand style. In the Rue Saint-Louis, is the admirable -Lambert mansion, that masterpiece of the architect Le Vau, which was -lost at the gaming-table in one night by Monsieur Dupin de Chenonceaux, -the ungrateful pupil of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Le Brun painted the -gallery of the Fêtes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses. - -At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Châtelet -throned there, Voltaire lived in it, and the Lambert mansion radiated -over the length and breadth of dazzled Paris. - -Then came darker days. The masterpieces of Le Sueur were sold--most of -them found their way to the Louvre--and nothing survives of this great -painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaïeu placed under -a staircase, and a few panels scattered here and there. - -Last of all--as if to mark its definitive decadence;--the mansion was -occupied by some military-bed purveyors. The fine carvings, sumptuous -paintings and gilded arabesques disappeared beneath a thick white dust -from cards of wool. In the great gallery, so magnificently decorated by -Le Brun and Van Opstaël, mattress-women set up their trestles and -seamstresses began to sew sacking. - -Later, Prince Czartorisky bought this noble dwelling and thus saved it -from ruin. - -Below the Lambert Hotel, along the river, is the Marie Bridge, at the -foot of which used to moor the famous water-diligence from whose deck -disembarked for the first time in Paris, on the 19th of October 1784, a -pale-complexioned youth of resolute brow, with eyes that gazed from -their depths on the horizons of the immense town. It was Bonaparte, a -pupil from the Brienne School, who had come to continue his studies at -the École Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Cæsar had of the -great Paris which was ultimately to acclaim him was the apse of -Notre-Dame, the old and venerable Notre-Dame in which he was to be -crowned, and round which, in preparation for the coronation day, the 2nd -of December 1804, eighteen houses were pulled down, so that the pomp of -the ceremony might be celebrated without obstacle and in all its -magnificence! - -[Illustration: THE PONT MARIE IN 1886 -_From a painting by P. Shaan_] - -Finally, on the Anjou Quay, we meet with one of the handsomest mansions -of old Paris, that bearing the name of Lauzun, which the generous -initiative of the Municipal Council has saved from destruction, the -Lauzun mansion with its inimitable wainscoting, its ancient gildings, -its glorious past, which is destined to become the museum of all -belonging to the seventeenth century: a fine frame for a fine project. - -In this old quarter of the Isle of Saint-Louis, at the confluence of the -Seine's two arms, painters, writers and poets have always dwelt: George -Sand, Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Méry, Daubigny, -Corot, Barye, Daumier, all lived there for a long time. In the Lauzun -mansion, were held the sittings of the hashish smokers' club; and the -chipped Virgin that looks from her niche at the corner of the Rue -Le-Regrattier--formerly known as the street of the Headless Woman--and -saw the passage of the whole Romantic Pleiad, will long continue to -receive visits from lovers of old Paris. - -It is from the Bourbon Quay that one of the most beautiful sights -imaginable may best be obtained: a sunset over Paris. - -The violet-tinted mass of Notre-Dame stands out with its superbly -imposing silhouette against the purpled gold of the fiery sky. All the -town dies away in a pink dust of light, whilst the broad roofs of the -Louvre, the spire of the Sainte-Chapelle, the pepper-box turrets of the -Conciergerie, the Saint-Jacques Tower, and the campaniles of the Town -Hall, all this landscape alive with history glows in the last rays of -the sinking sun. The Seine flows with a surface of liquid gold. - -The spectacle is sublime. - -[Illustration: THE ISLE OF SAINT-LOUIS] - - - - -[Illustration: BUILDING OF THE PANTHÉON -_Fragment of a water-colour by Saint-Aubin_] - - - - -THE LEFT BANK OF THE SEINE - - -No less than the old part of the City, the left bank of the river is -rich in souvenirs. There the Roman occupation left the deepest traces. -We find the arenas of Lutecia, and, above all, the Thermae of Julian, -saved from destruction by the taste and initiative of Du Sommerard at -the moment when these grandiose ruins, which were being used as coopers' -store-rooms, were about to be pulled down, involving in their fall that -jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hôtel de Cluny. Quite -recently, remains of Roman substructures have been discovered near the -College de France, in the Rue Saint-Jacques and the Saint-Michel -Boulevard; but the glory of the left bank of the river was, in -particular, the University and the Sorbonne. - -Little to-day is left of these old walls; but, ten years ago, the hill -of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness. - -[Illustration: THE COLLEGE OF LOUIS-LE-GRAND -_H. Saffrey, Sculpt._] - -There was the Rue Saint-Jacques, with its old book-sellers and -seventeenth-century houses, and especially--what dread -reminiscences!--the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycée, where -Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, and the future Marshal Brune had -studied under the mastership of the good Abbé Berardier. I confess that -the Louis-le-Grand of our boyhood was black, and gloomy enough also, -with its moss-grown playgrounds, its smoky rooms, its punishment -chambers up under the roof, where one was frozen in winter and stifled -in summer, its punishment chambers in which tradition relates that -Saint-Huruge was confined; quite near to the Saint-Jacques blind alley -where Auvergne dealers sold such fine trinkets, and to the little Rue -Cujas, noisy with the noise of rowdy students--but which rendered us -pensive. - -There was the Sorbonne, with its paved courtyard, where we used to wait, -pale, feverish and anxious, for the posting of the small white notice -bearing the names of those candidates for the Baccalaureat that were -admitted to the _vivâ voce_; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea -of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernès, while we blessed the -gods to have given us as examiner the witty and indulgent Monsieur -Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old. - -[Illustration: THE INNER COURTYARD OF THE ECOLE POLYTECHNIQUE -_Etching by Martial_] - -Further on, in the rear of Sainte-Barbe, we come to the Rue de la -Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève, alive and teeming with its old mansions -converted into dispensaries or business premises, its petty trades, its -popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated École -Polytechnique, dear to all Parisians, which adds its note of -cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter. - -[Illustration: THE RUE CLOVIS IN 1867 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -Quite near there is the Rue Clovis, where formerly stood the Abbey of -Sainte-Geneviève, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret -the part that has disappeared. In this Rue Clovis may be seen, crumbling -to decay and half-buried under climbing plants--lichens, ivy, sage and -moss--a big side of a primitive-looking wall, a fragment of the -fortifications of Philippe-Auguste, the belt of stone and lofty strong -towers behind which for centuries were heaped houses, palaces, colleges, -churches and abbeys, huddling against one another. The church of -Saint-Etienne-du-Mont opens its elegant portal a few yards away from the -Rue Clovis. Illustrious dead were buried there: Pascal, Racine, Boileau. - -A crime was also committed in it. - -On the 3rd of January 1858, the first day of the novena of -Sainte-Geneviève, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the -church, dreadful cries were heard: "They have just murdered -Monseigneur," and soon a man of haggard looks, clad in black, with -blood-red hands, was seen on the Square in the grasp of some policemen -who had just arrested him. It was Verger, a half-mad, interdicted -priest, who had stabbed to the heart Monseigneur Sibour, Archbishop of -Paris! - -This charming church should be seen in the early days of January. - -A sort of small religious fair is then held in front of the porch. A -veritable liturgical library is there for sale, under umbrellas -resembling those that used to shelter the orange-dealers: "Mary's -Rose-trees," "Miracles at Lourdes," "Synopses of Novenas," "Acts of -Faith," "Acts of Contrition," "Lives of the Saints," "Glorifications of -the Blessed." Chaplets are sold, holy images, devotional post-cards, -orthodox rituals, medals, scapularies--and unfortunately these objects -have less artistic value than sentiment about them. It is a -delightful Parisian tableau in one of the prettiest settings of the -great town. - -At the end of the Rue Clovis, is the Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, where the -painter Lebrun possessed a lovely house, still standing at No. 49, -over-run with ivy and honeysuckle, two or three yards distant from the -Scotch college--at present the "Institution Chevallier,"--converted into -a prison during the Terror, like most educational institutions. -Saint-Just was conveyed thither, after being outlawed on the 9th of -Thermidor; and his friends came there to fetch him at eight o'clock in -the evening, as well as his colleague Couthon, who was confined in the -Port-Libre (the old religious house of Port-Royal). It is easy to -imagine the gendarmes, on the steep slopes of the Rue Saint-Jacques, -running round the mechanical seat which the impotent Couthon feverishly -worked and propelled with handles levered to the wheels, and which -travelled rapidly over the hard stones, amid shouts and frightened -"sectionnaires,"--easy to conjure up before one's senses the call to -arms, the sound of the tocsin, under the downpour of the storm that -dispersed the Robespierrian bands camped about the Town Hall, and -enabled the troops of the Convention to invade the "Maison Commune" -without resistance. - -An hour later, Robespierre had his jaw smashed by Merda's bullet; his -brother sprang through the window; Le Bas committed suicide; Saint-Just, -haughty and impassible, allowed himself to be arrested in silence; -Couthon, with his paralysed legs, was flung on to a rubbish heap, and -then, bleeding and motionless, was dragged by the feet to the parapet of -the quay. He pretended to be dead. "Let us cast him into the water," -howled a multitude of fierce voices. "Excuse me, citizens," murmured -Couthon, "but I am still alive." So he was reserved for the scaffold. - -Behind Saint-Etienne-du-Mont, there is a nook almost unknown to -Parisians: a little cloister close to the apse of the church, and -containing some admirable painted glass windows by Pinaigrier, the great -artist, who, in 1568, charged for the "Parable of the Guests," a -three-compartment window painting, which masterpiece now adorns the -chapel of the Crucifix, "92 livres 10 sols, including the leading and -iron trellis." - -[Illustration: THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE IN 1866 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -It is one of the retreats for poetry and devotion so common in Paris, -and yet ofttimes so unsuspected amid the city's noise; and one never -forgets the impression produced when leaving the Latin Quarter, with its -laughter and songs, and plunging suddenly into this deserted cloister -full of dream and melancholy, though so close to the sunny, busy square -of the Panthéon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the -people and the army, an actor at the Odéon Theatre, Eric Besnard, -replaced once more the inscription: "_To her great men the grateful -mother country_" on the fine temple built by Soufflot, which the -Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Geneviève. - -[Illustration: THE PANTHÉON, IN BUILDING] - -The Panthéon is certainly the one Parisian building which has been -most often baptized and re-baptized. Constructed in consequence of a vow -made by Louis XV. when ill at Metz, on the gardens belonging to the -original Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, the money that paid for it was -derived from a portion of the funds raised by three lotteries drawn -every month in Paris. - -Soufflot, whose grandiose plans had been accepted, set to work in 1755. -Towards 1764, the edifice began to assume shape, and the Parisians in -enthusiasm admired the magnificent forms that modified the ancient -outlines of their city. But cracks and fissures and sinkings-in -occurred; a mad terror succeeded to the wonder: "The building will -tumble, and its fall will involve a part of the old quarter of the -Sorbonne," people said. Works of shoring up, embanking and strengthening -were carried out. Paris breathed again; but poor Soufflot, in despair, -could not survive so many tragic emotions. He died in 1781 without -finishing his undertaking. - -In 1791, the constituent Assembly set apart for the "Honouring of Great -Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Geneviève; and -Mirabeau's body was conveyed thither in triumph "to the sounds of -trombone and gong, whose notes, by the intensity with which they were -produced, tore the bowels and harrowed the heart," says a chronicle of -the time. - -[Illustration: PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE -_Meunier, fecit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -The great tribune was destined to make but a short stay in the -Panthéon,--this was the name given to the secularised church--for on the -27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chénier, and after -study of the documents found in the iron safe, documents that left no -doubt as to "the great treason of the Count de Mirabeau," the -Convention, "considering that a man cannot be great without virtue, -decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Panthéon, and -that those of Marat should be buried there." The sentence was carried -out by night, and the "virtuous" Marat took the place of Mirabeau; not -for long, however, since, some months later, Marat's body, -"depantheonised" in its turn, was cast into the common grave of the -small graveyard belonging to Saint-Etienne-du-Mont. Voltaire and -Rousseau were, in their turn, triumphantly interred. Voltaire's body, -after remaining all night in the ruins of the Bastille, had been brought -to the Panthéon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in -antique style through David's care, and by the actors and actresses of -the Théâtre Français in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of -the unfortunate Calas walked behind, close to the torn flag of the -Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fête, -its organisers had provided for everything except for the weather. A -dreadful storm descended on the heads of those composing the procession: -Mérope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the -names of Politics, the Arts, and Agriculture, were wet to the skin; and, -covered with mud and in wretched plight, were compelled to huddle into -cabs or shelter themselves under umbrellas. - -And thus it was that, on the 12th of July 1791, Voltaire made his entry -into the Panthéon. - -[Illustration: THE APOTHEOSIS OF JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU -His translation to the Panthéon on the 11th of October 1794 -_Girardet, inv. et del._] - -Jean-Jacques Rousseau followed him there on the 11th of October 1794; -his body brought back from Ermenonville, beneath a bower of flowering -shrubs, to the agreeable sounds of the "Village Seer," had passed the -preceding night on the basin of the Tuileries, transformed for the -occasion into an "Isle of Poplars." While yet not so popular as that of -Voltaire, his triumph was "one of sensitive souls," and "the man of -nature" was interred according to the rites he had himself prescribed. -Later, Napoleon peopled the Panthéon with the shades of obscure senators -and some few artists, admirals, and generals. Subsequently, the Second -Republic made a definitive assignment of the edifice to the cult of -great men; and there, on a sunny day, the 3rd of May 1885, Victor Hugo's -body was brought in the humble hearse of the poor, amid the acclamations -of an immense concourse of people, after spending a night of apotheosis -under the Arc de Triomphe, which he had so nobly sung. Since then, -Baudin, President Carnot, La Tour d'Auvergne have been buried there; and -an admirable decoration, the work of our best contemporary artists, -covers the vast walls of this necropolis. Puvis de Chavannes, Humbert, -Henri-Lévy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; -and, last of all, Edouard Detaille, surpassing himself, has, in an -admirable soaring of art, created on the canvas--in Homeric -proportions--a mad rush of horses and riders, the old cavaliers of the -Republic and the Empire, towards the radiant image of the Motherland, -with standards conquered from the enemy by their dauntless heroism. - -Around the Panthéon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of -little streets, poor and crowded together, once inhabited by those that -attended the schools, so numerous in that quarter of the Sorbonne. - -The Rue des Carmes remains to us as a perfect specimen of the past, with -its houses whose shaking walls support each other, its crumbling -façades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the -relics of a vanished splendour, the entrance to two important colleges, -to-day dwindled down into dens of misery, into lodgings of the poor. -Narrow and uneven, the Rue des Carmes ascends toilingly between shops -whose paint has been streaked by storms, faded by dust and wind; and yet -it continues to be full of charm and poetry, this sorry-looking street, -crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Panthéon, and -framing at the bottom, with its two lines of dingy houses, mean hotels, -and dancing-rooms, the delicate and elegant spire of Notre-Dame aloft on -the horizon of the clear sky. - -It was at the corner of this Rue des Carmes and the Rue des Sept-Voies, -not far from Sainte-Geneviève's church, that, at seven o'clock in the -evening of the 9th of March 1804, George Cadoudal sprang into the cab -that was to take him to the fresh hiding-place which his friends had -prepared for him in the house of Caron, the royalist perfumer of the Rue -du Four-Saint-Germain. George was narrowly watched, all the Paris police -being on the alert. He was recognised, and pursued by the Inspectors of -the Prefecture, two of whom pounced on him at the corner of the Rue -Monsieur-le-Prince and the Rue de l'Observance. The one he killed with a -pistol bullet in his forehead, the second he wounded. Meanwhile, the -assembled crowd hindered his flight; and a hatter of the neighbourhood -seized the outlaw and dragged him to the Police Station. His calmness -and dignity and the wit of his replies disconcerted his adversaries. -Reproached with having killed a married detective, the father of a -family: "Next time have me arrested by bachelors," he retorted. After he -had owned to the dagger found upon him, he was asked if the engraving on -the handle were not the English hall-mark. "I cannot say," he replied, -"but I can assure you that I have not had it[1] hall-marked in France." - -[Illustration: THE LUXEMBOURG, ABOUT 1790 -_Maréchal, del._ (National Library)] - -Quite near, is the Luxembourg, both palace and prison, the Luxembourg, -where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fêtes, where Gaston -d'Orléans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, -sighing for the handsome Lauzun; where also the Count de Provence so -cleverly prepared, with Monsieur d'Avaray, his escape from France, on -the same evening that Louis XVI. and Marie-Antoinette made such bad -arrangements for the lugubrious journey that was to lead them to -Varennes; the Luxembourg, whose courtyard was used as a promenade by -such prisoners as the Terror crowded there; the Luxembourg, whence -Camille Desmoulins wrote to his Lucile those heartrending letters that -still bear the traces of tears; the Luxembourg whither, a few weeks -later, Robespierre was brought as a prisoner, and where, "for want of -room," Hally, the porter, refused to receive him; the Luxembourg where, -after Thermidor, the artist David painted, from, his dungeon, the shady -walk in which he could see his children playing at ball; the -Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fêtes; the -Luxembourg, too, of Nodier, of Saint-Beuve, of Murger, of Michelet, of -the students, of the workers of Bohemia, of the songs of the worthy -Nadaud and Mimi Pinson, near to Bullier's and the Lilac Closerie and -also to the Observatory and the ill-omened wall "scored with bullets" -where Marshal Ney fell. Everywhere, the same mingling of mirth and -sorrow, of laughter and blood. The reason is that each street, each -cross-road, almost each house has seen some dark procession pass by or -some victorious fête celebrated. - -[Illustration: FRATERNAL SUPPERS IN THE SECTIONS OF PARIS -On the 11th, 12th, and 13th of May 1793, or the 21st, 22nd, and 23rd of -Floreal, Anno II. of the Republic. -_Drawn by Swebach-Desfontaines_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -On all these dingy walls of Paris, hands of women or of artists have -contrived to put flowers or bird-cages; and no alley is so dismal that -it does not harbour a little poetry and dreaming, some gillyflowers and -songs. - -Not far away is the Carmes prison, in the Rue de Vaugirard, at the -corner of the Rue d'Assas; and there all the externals are the same as -they were at the moment of the terrible massacre of 1792. At the foot of -the staircase one sees still the tiled floor of the small room where, -between two corridors, Maillard placed the chair and table that formed -the bloody tribunal of the September slaughter; the balcony covered with -climbing plants through which issued the unfortunates that were felled, -stabbed with pikes, or shot in the large garden; and, at the top of the -first story, on the wall bearing even now the red marks of the -blood-dripping sabres used by the slayers, may be read the signatures of -the fair prisoners who, day after day, in terrified anxiety, waited, -each evening, for the fatal order to appear before the Tribunal: -Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Joséphine de -Beauharnais. At this date, Tallien, himself suspected and followed by a -band of spies, prowled from eve till morn round the sinister prison in -which the woman he loved was confined. One day, on his table, 17 Rue de -la Perle, he found a poniard that he recognised, a gem of Spain with -which Terezia's hands were familiar. It was an imperative order; and on -the 7th of Thermidor this note was transmitted to him from "La Force." -"The head of the police has just gone from here. He came to tell me that -to-morrow I shall ascend to the Tribunal, that is, to the scaffold. It -is different from the dream I had in the night: Robespierre dead and the -prisons opened.... But, thanks to your signal cowardice, there will soon -be no one in France capable of realising it!" - -As a matter of fact, the fair Terezia, being more especially aimed at by -the Committee, had been mysteriously transferred from the Carmes prison -to La Force; and it was from this latter place that she sent her will -and testament of vengeance and death. Then, Tallien swore to save his -country; the mother country for him was the woman he worshipped. Mad -with love and rage, rousing against Robespierre every rancour, terror, -and hatred, he spent the night and the day of the 8th in preparing the -dreadful and tragical sitting of the 9th of Thermidor, which was a -merciless duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouché, to -Collot d'Herbois as to Durand-Maillane and Louchet, to Cambon as to -Vadier, to Thuriot as to Legendre, to the few remaining Dantonists as to -the eternal tremblers of the Marais; then, springing to the rostrum with -a dagger in his hand, he threatened Robespierre, who was nervous, -uneasy, distraught, from the presentiment that his power was escaping -him; and, at length, after a fearful five hours' struggle, obtained the -dread decree outlawing and condemning to the guillotine those who -themselves for two years had been mowing down the members of the -Convention. - -[Illustration: FÊTE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, -ANNO VII. -Bonaparte hands to the Directory the treaty of Campo-Formio] - -Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Théroigne de -Méricourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot -dwelt at No. 12, the appearance of which has hardly changed since. If he -were to come back and wander about these parts, Jean-Jacques Rousseau -would again find almost intact the home of her he chiefly loved, quite -near to the Rue Servandoni, a dark, damp lane lurking beneath the walls -of Saint-Sulpice, where Condorcet, during the Terror, succeeded in -safely hiding himself at the house of Madame Vernet, No. 15. There he -terminated--under what sorry conditions!--his _Tableau of the Progress -of the Human Mind_. His wife was living at Auteuil and there painted -pastels. No industry prospered under the Terror. "Every one," says -Michelet, "was in a hurry to fix on the canvas a shadow of this -uncertain life." On the 6th of April, his work being finished, -Condorcet dressed himself as a workman, with long beard and cap down -over his eyes, a "Horace" in his hand, and in his pocket some poison, -for a case of need, prepared him by Cabanis; and escaped from Madame -Vernet's. All day, he roamed about the country, in the vicinity of -Fontenay-aux-Roses, hoping to find with some friends, Monsieur and -Madame Suard, a shelter that they refused him. He spent the night in the -woods; then, on the morrow, haggard and starved, he entered a Clamart -public-house. There, he made a ravenous meal, while reading his dear -Horace. Being questioned and suspected, he was carried off to the -district, put on an old horse and thus conducted to the prison at -Bourg-la-Reine. At dawn, the gaolers, on going into his cell, stumbled -over his corpse. Poison had made an end of this noble life of work, -glory, and misery. - -Aloft in the same quiet quarter, Saint-Sulpice rears its two unequal -towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aërial telegraph. -It was in the fine vestry of this imposing church, which has preserved -its admirable wood-carvings, that Camille Desmoulins signed the marriage -register, when, on the 29th of December 1790, he married his adored -Lucile Duplessis. The marriage was a veritable romance; and all Paris -crowded to the gates of Saint-Sulpice to see the procession go by. The -bride and bridegroom were congratulated; and cheers were given for the -witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery, Pétion, -Mercier, and Robespierre. Then, the wedding party ascended the Rue de -Condé to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Théâtre -François (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odéon), on the third floor. There, on -the 20th of March 1794, the day of his mother's death, he was arrested, -bound like a malefactor, and thence was taken to the Luxembourg hard by. -On the 5th of April, Camille was executed amid the shouts of the people -who had so flattered him. Lucile followed him to the scaffold a week -later! They had sworn to love each other in life and death.... The idyll -finished in blood. - -Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Férou, the Rue -Cassette, the Rue Garancière, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue -Madame, with their ancient names and provincial aspect, devout and -silent quarters of monastic and semi-mysterious life, and, for this -reason, full of infinite charm. - -There, on all sides, are heard convent bells and liturgic sounds. The -few shops that exist are austere in air and devoted to religious -purposes: chasuble makers', holy image dealers', church book and -jewellery sellers'. Behind long, sombre walls, shoots of verdure, the -plumes of a tree joyously bursting forth remind one of large, unkempt -gardens, where all grows wild, full of flowers and birds, inhabited by -pious persons and old people who pray as they walk and regretfully dream -of the times that are no more. - -In the huge Paris, noisy and flippant, mad with sound and movement, -tramways and underground railways, it is the refuge of the past, the -quarter for prayer, silence, and oblivion; there still seem to live "a -few dolent voices of yearnings for the past, which ring the curfew," -says Chateaubriand in his _Memoirs from beyond the Grave_. - -Old mansions are numerous. - -In the Rue de Varenne alone, each portal awakes a remembrance of the -most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Condé, -Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tessé, Béthune-Sully, Montmorency, -Rougé, Ségur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of -these aristocratic dwellings were certainly found disguised, dressed up -as horse-dealers, drovers, peasants, workmen, in the _Golden Cup_ -hostelry at the corner of the Rue de Varenne, which was celebrated in -the history of the Chouannerie: the heroes of _Tournebut_, my dear -friend Lenôtre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, -himself filled with enthusiasm, knows how to inspire his reader with the -same. It was one of the meeting-places used by the sworn companions of -George Cadoudal, who hid there several times; and there, too, the -royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendémiaire, Anno IV., their -arrangements relative to the abduction of the Convention. - -At some little distance, in the Rue Canettes, another rendezvous -existed, for emigrants and chouans, in the house of the perfumer, Caron, -where a famous hiding-place was used. Hyde de Neuville tells us, in his -picturesque memoirs, that one needed only to slip behind the picture, -serving as signboard to the perfumery--a picture overhanging the -street--then to draw over one the shutter of the neighbouring chamber, -for all the police Fouché employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, -as they frequently did, the house through and through. - -Next, we come upon the Odéon--the old Odéon--still standing on its base, -in spite of the countless jests levelled at it, with its famous -galleries, where, for many a long year, saunterers have gone to have a -look at the last productions of contemporary literature. How often have -we lingered in front of the old books or new ones, turning over the -leaves, or reading between two pages yet uncut? - -It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odéon galleries, the -most amiable of publishers, Ernest Flammarion, installed himself in -partnership with Ch. Marpon; both of them indefatigable workers, -benevolent and witty, they spent treasures of contrivance to get into -too narrow a space all the nice, fine books they loved so well, and -understood so well how to make others love. - -But soon the three arcades were really inadequate; and, progressively, -the untiring Flammarion spread round two sides of the big building, -before starting out to conquer Paris, and to establish in the city so -many bookshops. He had his faithful readers: an old book-lover of narrow -purse owned to him that he had read the whole of Darwin's _Origin of -Species_ (450 pages) while standing in front of the stall! - -Other customers less scrupulous have sometimes carried off the volume -they had begun; but the good Flammarion is infinitely indulgent to such -"absent-minded" individuals. "The desire to instruct themselves is too -strong for their feelings," he murmurs by way of excuse, and, -philosophically, he smiles and passes these petty larcenies to his -profit and loss account. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MÉDECINE IN 1866 -House where Marat was assassinated -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -Along the Rue de l'École-de-Médecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, -which was formerly the refectory of the Franciscan monastery, we reach -the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the cutting of which did away with so many -precious relics; among others, the abode where Marat was assassinated, -the Mignon College, and the Saint-Germain Abbey, the front of which -opened opposite the row of old, curiously gabled houses which so far -have been left alone by architects and builders. These latter heard the -cries of the victims that were massacred in the September slaughters. -They were lighted by the reflection of eighty-four fire-pots supplied by -a certain Bourgain, the candle-maker of the quarter, in order that the -families of the slaughterers and the amateurs of fine spectacles might -come and contemplate the work; the shopkeepers of the quarter, who were -complaisant witnesses, supplied details. These houses also saw -Billaud-Varennes congratulate the "workers" and distribute wine tickets -to them; and Maillard, surnamed Strike Hard, they saw leave, when his -work was done, with his hands crossed behind the skirts of his long grey -overcoat, and walk quietly back to his home, like a worthy clerk -quitting his office, coughing the while, for he had a delicate chest. - -[Illustration: THE GALLERY OF THE ODÉON (RUE ROTROU)] - -Together with the present presbytery, they form the sole extant -witnesses of that dreadful butchery. - -Within a stone's throw, once there was the Passage du Commerce, where -resounded the butt-ends of the guns of the sectionaries who, on the 31st -of March 1794, came at daybreak to arrest Danton and conduct him to the -Luxembourg; and it is easy to fancy what must have been that hour of -fright and stupefaction. Arrest Danton! the Titan of the Revolution, him -whose formidable eloquence had raised fourteen armies from the soil! the -Danton of the 10th of August, Danton till then untouchable! It was only -a few days after the arrest of Camille with his cruel wit; the Camille -of the Palais-Royal, of the _Lanterne_, the _Revolutions of France and -Brabant_, the _Brissot unmasked_; the Camille of the "_Vieux -Cordelier_," that masterpiece of wit and courage, in which he dared to -speak of clemency to Robespierre and of respect for his fellows to the -ignoble Hébert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue -stands to-day; we regret the house. - -[Illustration: THE ROHAN COURTYARD IN 1901 -_Water-colour by D. Bourgoin_] - -The Rohan courtyard (the word ought to be written _Rouen_, for, in the -fifteenth century, the yard depended on the old mansion possessed by the -Cardinal de Rouen) joins the Passage du Commerce, a few steps from the -bookshop where the philanthropic Doctor Guillotin tried on a sheep the -knife of his "beheading machine"; it is picturesque and curious, this -Rohan courtyard, where you can still see the well of the house once -inhabited by Coictier, the doctor of Louis XI.; where, too, the "mule's -step" may be found, that Sorbonne doctors, who frequented this quarter, -used in order to get off their steeds, and which preserved a very old -wall round a garden planted with lilac and turf--alas! destroyed last -year. The wall, like that of the Rue Clovis, was a fragment of -Philippe-Auguste's fortification, the base of one of whose towers is -still to be made out in the Passage du Commerce, No. 4, at the house of -a locksmith, who has set up his forge upon it! - -[Illustration: THE ROHAN COURTYARD IN 1901 -Second view] - -The houses there are old, dilapidated, and sordid, but perfect in their -picturesqueness; the strangest industries flourish in them, and quite -recently one might read there this characteristically Parisian -advertisement, "Small hands required for flowers and feathers," beside a -plate pointing out the address of the newspaper, _Heaven_, on the fourth -floor, door to the left! - -The Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des -Fossés-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine -in a cellar. At No. 14, in the courtyard of an old mansion occupied by a -wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Théâtre-Français. -The large entrance door, the staircases leading to the actors' private -rooms, the slanting pit of the hall, and even the friezes are still in -existence. The King's Comedians played there, on April 18th, 1689, -_Phèdre_ and the _Médecin malgré lui_, and performed in the same -building until 1770. - -The encyclopædists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet -opposite at the Procope coffee-house, the handsome iron balcony of which -is yet subsisting, from where it was so agreeable to hobnob with the -balcony of the Comedy. The Procope coffee-house, celebrated in the -eighteenth century, was even more so under the Second Empire. In 1867, -on the eve of the Baudin trial, Gambetta poured forth in it, to the -students of the various University schools, the thunder and lightning -bursts of his admirable eloquence. The great orator in 1859 lived at No. -7 Rue de Tournon, in the hotel of the Senate and the Nations, at present -to be found there. His small room afforded a fine view over the roofs of -Paris, and also remains as it was then. - -Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Château, on the 23rd of December -1850, two poor women were assassinated. One of them, Mademoiselle -Ribault, a designer on the staff of the _Petit Courrier des Dames_, -edited by Monsieur Thiéry, had the strength to write on a screen with a -finger dipped in her own blood: "The assassin is the clerk of M. -Thi...." This clerk, Laforcade, was arrested the next day. - -How many delightful nooks besides, hardly known by Parisians, are to be -met with on the left bank of the river! - -[Illustration: THE RUE VISCONTI -_Water-colour by F. Léon_] - -Not all have disappeared for ever of those vast melancholy gardens, -those hoary mansions buried in streets where the grass grows, and whose -noble but gloomy façades would never cause one to suspect the riches -they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hôtel des Invalides. -Others are in the Rue Vanneau, the Rue Bellechasse, the Rue de Varenne, -the Rue Saint-Guillaume, the Rue Bonaparte; some also in the Rue -Visconti, which dark narrow lane possesses illustrious souvenirs. The -famous Champmeslé, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes -mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pré-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine -died there in 1697. This house, which bears the number 21, is to-day a -girls' boarding-school! And last of all, at No. 17 the great Balzac -established the printing-press that ruined him, and that later became -the studio of Paul Delaroche. There, was played the sentimental and -commercial drama whose poignant phases have been related to us so -eloquently by Messieurs Hanoteaux and Vicaire. - -All these houses, so pregnant with history, are still visible; yet how -few Parisians are acquainted with them! - -[Illustration: ALFRED DE MUSSET AT 23 YEARS OF AGE -_Drawn by Lépaulle_ (Pigoreau Collection)] - -On the Voltaire Quay lived Vivant, Denon, Ingres, Alfred de Musset, -Judge Perrault, Chamillard, Gluck, and Voltaire himself who died there, -and whose corpse, wrapped in a dressing-gown and held up by straps, like -a traveller asleep, started by night in a travelling-coach, on the 30th -of May 1778, from the courtyard of Monsieur de Villette's mansion, with -its entrance still in the Rue de Beaune, to be buried outside Paris at -the Abbey of Scellières in Champagne. - -The flat in which Voltaire passed away has not been altered, and its -decoration has remained almost intact, with its wall mirrors, its -painted ceilings, and its small mirrored salons contrived in the thick -walls. - -[Illustration: THE FAÇADE OF THE INSTITUTE -_From an original drawing of the Revolutionary period_ (Carnavalet -Museum)] - -The Institute is not far, but for the ancient College of the Four -Nations to produce its best impression, it needs a special day--an -extraordinary sitting, a sensational reception, when the prettiest -costumes of the most elegant Parisian dames contrast with the -Academicians' green uniforms. On one side, are beauty, charm, and grace; -on the other, some of the noblest intelligences, the most illustrious -names in Literature, Art, and Science. It is the great intellectual -banquet of France in one of the fairest sights of the Capital. - -If, however, we wish for something to amuse us, something original, we -must mount the endless staircases of the Institute and seek it in the -attic portion of the palace, visiting the tiny chambers where formerly -it was the custom to put candidates for the Prix de Rome in the -competitive music examination. - -Inside these closets, at which the sumptuously lodged prisoners of -Fresnes-les-Rungis would grumble, on these decrepit walls, the finest -talents of our modern school have left traces of their whilom -presence--bars of music, verses, drawings, writings of varied nature. I -confess I should not dare to reproduce, even expurgated, the -inscriptions which confinement and absence from Paris streets and -acquaintance have suggested to many an admirable composer of to-day. -Saint-Saëns would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be -troubled, our great and witty Massenet would surely refuse to accept the -paternity of his vigorous apostrophes, and--I will be discreet; never -mind--it's something very enjoyable, very funny, and quite in the -character of the language. - -Between the Mint and the lion-poodle of the Institute (from the shelter -of which, if we are to believe his delightful Memoirs, Alexandre Dumas -contributed so valiantly to the triumph of the 1830 Revolution) nestles -a small, provincial-looking Square; Madame Permon, mother of the future -Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantès, lived there until the Revolution. In -a small garret of the same house, at the left corner, on the third -floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the École -Militaire. The fine, carved wainscotings are still round the walls of -the drawing-room on the ground floor, overlooking the Seine, which the -Cæsar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the -marble chimney-piece is in its old place; at it he would come and dry -his big patched boots that "smoked again," the talkative Madame -d'Abrantès tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant -might, from the window, see opposite him the palace whence, for a number -of years, he was to conqueringly dispose of the destinies of the dazzled -world. - -In front of the Institute is the Pont des Arts. There the sight is an -enchanting one; the Seine--the gayest, most lively of rivers--crowded -with passenger-boats, tugs, barges, and barques. The grey or blue sky is -reflected in the water, and the river flows majestically between two -verdure-clad quays, surmounted by book-sellers' cases, and inhabited by -the most picturesque of populations. - -What strange trades there are on the river sides!--watermen's barbers, -dog shearers, dockmen, and sand-carters, tollmen and mattress-carders, -anglers, bathmen, washerwomen; it is a separate population with its own -customs, habits, and peculiar language. And what a splendid frame is -round this odd little world seen from the Pont des Arts! - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE LOUVRE QUAY -_Noël, pinxit_] - -On the one bank, the Louvre, the green foliage of the Tuileries, and the -Champs-Elysées, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of -Chaillot on the horizon; on the other, all old Paris, a series of -monuments haloed with souvenirs--the Palais de Justice, the -Conciergerie, the Sainte-Chapelle, Notre-Dame; the churches of -Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois, Saint-Gervais, Saint-Paul; the Pointe de la -Cité. - -[Illustration: PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITÉ -_Photographed by Richebourg_] - -At night, these noble, suggestive silhouettes assume a still more -imposing majesty--modern blemishes, glaring colourings, shameless -advertisements are blotted out. - -The moon spreads its delicate white light over the old walls, and a -silvern Paris rears itself in the darkness. At times, too, underneath a -storm-red sky, an entirely sombre town arises, made known only as a -tragic vision in successive flashes of lightning. - -Either we have a Paris of sunny mirth or a Paris bathed in night's -gloom. - -Descending once again towards the Seine, through the picturesque streets -that surround the Institute--the Rue Dauphine, the Rue de Nesles, the -Rue Mazarine--we discover in the Rue Contrescarpe-Dauphine--at present -the Rue Mazet--the remains of the old White Horse Inn. The stables, with -their ancient mangers and quaint eaves, still exist. They date back to -Louis XIV. In that time, every week the huge inn-yard was filled with -travellers going to Orléans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in -a cloud of dust, amidst crackings of whip, trumpetings, adieus, and -shakings of handkerchiefs; horses pranced, women wept, dogs barked, -postilions swore. To-day the animation has disappeared, but the scene -has remained, age-stricken, impressive, still charming, so much so that -Massenet, moved by it, murmured one morning: "It must be here that -Manon[2] alighted from the diligence!" - -The neighbouring house was once the Magny restaurant, at which those -celebrated dinners were given that Goncourt speaks of so often in his -Memoirs, dinners shared by Renan, Sainte-Beuve, Georges Sand, Flaubert, -Théophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others. - -Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine--where Molière and his -company played--with the Rue de Seine, let us go through the Passage du -Pont-Neuf, occupying the site of the ancient entrance to the theatre, -and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel _Thérèse Raquin_. - -It is a typical nook--sordid, dingy, and malodorous, but strangely -attractive, with its fried-potato sellers and Italian modellers. The -shops in it seem to belong to another century; some months back, one -only was frequented by customers, that of a drawing-paper dealer. The -artist, Bonnat, told us he had bought his "Ingres paper" there, when he -was a pupil at the School of Fine Arts, of which to-day he is the -eminent head. The shop had not altered for sixty years, and the -saleswoman asserted that the "stomping-rags she sold were exactly -similar to those used by Monsieur Flandrin." In front of us is the -Institute, and it is impossible to walk along the interminable -black-looking wall enclosing it, on the side of the Rue Mazarine, -without thinking of the painful paragraph in the preface of the _Fils -Naturel_, wherein the younger Dumas, speaking of his childhood, recalls -the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odéon, of -_Charles VI. chez ses grands vassaux_, on the 20th of October 1831. - -The evening had been a stormy one, and the success of the play was -doubtful. Consequently, a continuation of their poverty was to be -expected. Alexandre Dumas had heavy burdens to support--his mother, a -household, a child. He had to live himself and to keep his family on the -meagre salary his situation under the Duke d'Orléans procured him. It -was not of his talents but of his star that he doubted; and the younger -Dumas always remembered his father's broad shadow cast by the moon on -the dark, gloomy wall of the Institute, and himself timidly guessing at -his father's anxieties and endeavouring, with his little eight-year-old -legs, to follow and keep up with the studies of the good-natured giant. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DES PRÊTRES-SAINT-SÉVERIN IN 1866 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -It was in the Rue Guénégaud, in the Hôtel Britannique, that Madame -Roland took up her quarters in 1791. There, joyous and confident in the -future, she opened her political _salon_. What a pleasure for the little -Manon to show to all the Pont-Neuf neighbourhood, where her childhood -had been spent, that she had become a lady and received people of mark. -Brissot, Buzot, Pétion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to -come, between two sittings, and talk at this amiable woman's house; and -I fancy what attracted them was far more the pretty Parisian's qualities -than the virtues of the austere husband, who must have been a great -bore! On the 26th of March 1792, Dumouriez came to Roland's door and -rang to tell him that he was appointed Minister. On the morrow, the -little Manon of the Quai des Lunettes settled in triumph at the Calonne -mansion. It was the way to the scaffold. - -Skirting the quays, we reach the Saint-Michel Square, then the Rue -Galande. In spite of recent demolitions, this old street still contains -some ancient abodes; but it has lost the singular house called the _Red -Castle_, or more prosaically, "the Guillotine." - -In what was, during the seventeenth century, a sumptuous dwelling--the -mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrées--behind the huge, tall front -steps at the back of the courtyard, was the dingy, smoky habitation, -stinking of wine, dirt, debauch, and vice. - -One had to step over the bodies of male and female drunkards to get -inside the dens where such poor wretches came seeking some sort of -lodging and an hour of forgetfulness. It was at once hideous and -lugubrious. Amateurs of ugly sights might continue their studies hard -by, on the premises of "Gaffer" Lunette, in the Rue des Anglais. The -inhabitants were similar; a prison population--"bestiality in all its -horror," as Mephistopheles sings in the _Damnation of Faust_. Recent -building and sanitary improvements have done away with the "Red Castle." - -The Rue Saint-Séverin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the -ancient Gothic church--"that flora of stone"--one of the most curious -perhaps in Paris; one of those that best preserve the traces of a past -of art, devotion, and prayer. - -The sublime artists who, in several centuries, knew how to create the -forest of fine carvings with which the apse is adorned, have, alas! left -but sorry successors. By the side of old painted glass windows, brought -from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, other cold, modern stained -windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Séverin's the religious, -poetical mysteriousness, the inviting half-obscurity that appeal to the -soul of the believer; and their crude light renders only too visible -the marks of successive mutilations inflicted on this fine church. In -the next street, the present clergy-house is built on the old graveyard, -where, in 1641--as the erudite Monsieur de Rochegude informs us--the -first operation for gravel was publicly performed on a criminal -condemned to death, who, happy man, was cured, and pardoned by Louis XI. -The whole of the quarter is one of the busiest in Paris. It would seem -as if the vagabonds, the lewd and their lemans, the tatterdemalions of -bygone centuries, had left there a direct line of descendants. People -live in the street, eat scraps in low drink-shops; a smell of spirits -floats in the air at the corners of the various cross-roads; bars and -petty restaurants are thronged with customers. Part of the money begged -or stolen in Paris is spent there. - -[Illustration: THE PASSAGE DES PATRIARCHES -_Etching by Martial_] - -Saint-Médard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint -Square, and its round tower at the end of the Rue Monge and the corner -of the Rue Mouffetard. It is a gloomy, rat-gnawed, poverty-stricken -church, looking as if worn-out with age; and is blocked in by old houses -covered with gaudy-coloured advertisements. It has left, far behind in -the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Pâris in it performed its -miracles, when the townsfolk and courtfolk crowded in the small -graveyard, a door of which still exists, the one perhaps whereon was -written the famous couplet:-- - - "In the King's name, forbid is God - To work a wonder on this sod." - -[Illustration: THE RUE MOUFFETARD -_Charcoal Drawing by P. L. Moreau_] - -The Rue Mouffetard passes in front of the church porch, overflowing with -life and activity. A hundred petty trades are exercised in it; the house -doors themselves--old eighteenth-century doors--shelter women-sellers of -flowers, milk, fried potatoes, cooked mussels; children play about the -middle of the road; carriage traffic is rare. Housewives gossip on their -doorsteps, people live together--and in the street. The Passage des -Patriarches, which opens at No. 99, was famous in days of yore. The -Calvinists, who used to preach there, had bloody quarrels with the -Catholics of Saint-Médard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, -melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-à-brac dealers, old-iron sellers, -and petty hucksters; and smells of rags, old lead, and cauliflower! - -[Illustration: THE RUE GALANDE -_Lansyer, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -Maubert Square is the converging centre of these strange streets. At -present, modernised and rearranged--adorned, if I may say so, with a -wretched statue of Etienne Dolet, who was burnt there in 1546--the -Square only vaguely resembles the "Plac' Maub'," still visible six or -seven years ago, ill-famed, narrow, bordered with old steep-roofed -houses, a den of vagabonds, full of suspicious lurking-corners where the -police might be sure of making good hauls. Near at hand, in the Maubert -Blind Alley, Sainte-Croix used to dwell; and it was in the same -mysterious retreat that Madame de Brinvilliers, the sorry heroine of the -Poisons drama so well told by our witty friend, F. Funck-Brentano, used -to meet her accomplice and with him prepare the terrible "succession -powder," composed, according to her avowal, of "vitriol, toad's venom, -and rarefied arsenic," which she made use of to poison her father, her -two brothers, and to try to make away with her sisters and husband. - -[Illustration: THE PLACE MAUBERT -_Lansyer, pinxit_] - -In 1304, Dante attended, hard by, one of the numerous schools of the Rue -du Fouarre; and, at the corner of the Colbert-Mansion Street, the -Faculty of Medicine had its amphitheatre. This curious building is still -almost intact with its ancient cupola, and would supply an admirable -piece of decoration to some retrospective museum of surgery. - -[Illustration: THE OLD AMPHITHEATRE OF SURGERY -At the corner of the Colbert Mansion -_Etching by Martial_] - -Not far from this spot, the Rue Maître-Albert--which up to 1844 was -called the Rue Perdue--owes its present name to the Dominican Maître -Albert who, in the thirteenth century, taught in the open air in Maubert -Square. It contains curious houses, to-day dens for tramps, who -spend the night in them. In 1819, an old negro of miserable appearance -and strange manners used to go down this dark street every evening, -trying his best to escape observation, and used to seek food and shelter -in one of its sorry eating-houses. People pointed him out as he went, -whispering that he was formerly Dubarry's black servant, Zamore, whom -Louis XV. had played with; Zamore who became a power, petted and courted -by noble lords, fine ladies, and princes of the Church that emulously -strove to gain the favourite's good graces. Later, having been appointed -a municipal officer under the Terror, he vilely, ungratefully, and in a -cowardly way, betrayed his benefactress, gave her up, and cast her -beneath the knife of the guillotine. At length, sinking lower and lower, -Zamore came and hid himself at No. 13, on the second courtyard floor of -this gloomy Rue Perdue, and died there on the 7th of February 1820. - -[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF SAINT-NICOLAS-DU-CHARDONNERET, AND THE RUE -SAINT-VICTOR -_Drawn by Heidbrendk_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -The two churches nearest the spot are those of -Saint-Nicolas-du-Chardonneret and Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. Connected with -the former is a dismal little seminary, in which, under the guidance of -the Abbé Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through -part of his theological studies. Every one should read in the _Souvenirs -of my Childhood and Youth_ the admirable pages this marvellous writer -has devoted to his stay in this studious home. "The parish, which -derived its name from the field of thistles well known of the students -at the Paris University in the Middle Ages, was then the centre of a -rich quarter inhabited chiefly by the legal profession. The -boarding-school _régime_ weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a -young man from Coutances, I think, like myself, full of enthusiasm, and -of excellent heart, held himself aloof, refused to reconcile himself, -and died. The Savoy students showed themselves still less -acclimatisable. One of them, older than I, owned to me that, each -evening, he measured with his eye the height of the three-storey -dormitory above the pavement of the Rue Saint-Victor. I fell ill; -apparently I was doomed. My Breton soul lost itself in an infinite -melancholy. The last angelus of evening I had heard resound over our -dear hills, and the last sunset I had watched over the tranquil -landscape came back to my memory like sharp arrows. In the ordinary -course of things I ought to have died. Perhaps it would have been better -if I had...." - -[Illustration: THE RUE SAINT-JULIEN-LE-PAUVRE -_Etching by Martial_] - -The artist Le Brun's mother is buried in the Saint-Charles chapel of the -church of Saint-Nicolas-du-Chardonneret, and also Pierre de Chamousset, -the inventor of the petty Postal service. Parisian ladies, bless his -memory! - -The church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is set apart for the Greek ritual. -Enclosed on its sides and rear by the ancient buildings of the -Hôtel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a -stopped-up well with meagre weeds growing from its border-stones seems -to guard the door, which opens on a dirty, rubbish-strewn courtyard -where a few half-starved fowls peck their scanty meal. It is a nook of -poverty and suffering. The walls are damp and dingy; in these sombre -yards, where a few sickly trees barely exist, all is solitude and -abandon. Only three years ago, stretchers or ambulance carriages still -stopped from time to time in it, and from them were taken victims of -crime, disease, or accident, that had fallen in the street. Through the -vast Paris, busy and indifferent, monopolised by its pleasures or its -cares, one or another human wreck was brought to the Assistance Publique -in this dismal Rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre with its suggestive name. - -[Illustration: THE JARDIN DES PLANTES--THE CEDAR OF LEBANON AND THE -LABYRINTH -_Water-colour by Hilaire_ (National Library)] - -To refresh ourselves after so painful a spectacle, let us come back to -the lovely Parisian quays, and walk along the fair river, quivering in -the daylight or in the moon's nightly rays; let us pass by the beautiful -mansions of the Miramionnes, of Nesmond, of Judge Rolland, in front of -the wine market--"catacombs of thirst," and pause at the old Jardin des -Plantes, dear to Buffon. A touch of the charm of things past, but not -entirely vanished, lingers yet! - -The trees are centuries old, the ornamental hornbeams have not been -altered; there are aviaries and goat-pens which are the same as when -Daubigny and Charles Jacques sketched them in 1843, to illustrate the -handsome work published by Curmer. - -[Illustration: THE JARDIN DES PLANTES IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY -_Water-colour by Hilaire_ (National Library)] - -The reptiles are better housed than in our childhood; but the -hippopotamus wallows in the same basin; the giraffe stretches his neck -over the same enclosures, and the elephant holds through the same -railings his gluttonous trunk in search of rolls. - -The bear-pit has not changed; and the crowd of idlers continue to tempt -the eternal "Martin" to climb up the same tree. Still to the noisy -children the delightful labyrinth offers its capricious meandering; and -the cedar of Lebanon (_Cedrus Libani_) [Linnæus], which tradition tells -us Monsieur Jussieu brought back in his hat, has not ceased to wave its -ample branches over dreamers, loungers, workers, or grisette--the -grisette that comes and sits beneath its venerable shade to read the -exciting magazine story which fills with sweet emotion her heart athirst -for the ideal! - -And, in fine, is there anything nattier than the tiny rooms of the Louis -XVI. buildings? which once formed Buffon's natural history cabinet, and -whose delicate grey wood carvings made such a suitable framework for the -admirable butterfly collections brought from every country. - -Within these finely decorated and cosy rooms there was, so to speak, an -ideal assemblage of blossoms, a fairy scene of exquisite colours, an -enchantment wrought by a brilliant palette. - -There they were, all of them, beautiful butterflies, with their metallic -lustres from India and Brazil, French butterflies of a thousand tints, -both the great death's-head sphynx and the little blue creature of the -meadows. - -Perhaps time had powdered and somewhat dimmed the marvellous brightness -of their first colouring; but it was better so. Their pristine lustre -would have been too great a contrast in the quaint surroundings, and it -was an extra charm to see such gems of the air thus lightly decked with -the dust of the past! To-day, alas! these rooms, flowering with -sculpture, are closed and forsaken; a part of their wainscoting has -disappeared.... Where have decorations so pleasing gone?... Why these -everlasting, culpable mutilations, which I know are a grief to Monsieur -Périer, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of -butterflies are now transferred to the vast and sumptuous central hall -of the new pavilion devoted to natural history. I liked them better in -the charming rooms which once contained them and suited them so well! - -The water-flowers bloom, as of yore, in the same low, stifling -hot-houses, near the bizarre-shaped orchids; and it was in the old -amphitheatre, where so many illustrious scholars taught, that the noble -artist Madame Madeleine Lemaire,--the only "woman professor" that has -ever held a post at the Museum,--initiated her attentive, spell-bound -audience into the divine beauty of flowers! - -In all periods, artists have come and installed their light easel or -their modelling-stands in front of the lions' cages, or in the Garden -itself, on the grass, opposite the antelopes, hinds, walla-birds, or the -goats of Thibet. - -We remember, my brother and I, having, as little boys, accompanied our -father, who was modelling from life the tigers and lions in the wild -beasts' corridor. The odour was pungently alkaline, the heat sultry; we -heard the hissing of polecats in the entrance and exit rotundas; -sometimes a terrible roar, a complaint of anger, pain, or ennui, arose -and shook the panes. - -Most of these unfortunate animals, deprived of air and light, shut up in -the horrible, narrow, stinking cages, died a lingering death of -consumption. Indeed, they quickly grew familiar with those who spent -whole weeks studying them; and their huge heads rubbed caressingly -against the thick cage-bars, while their eyes became soft and almost -tender. - -Often we went, inquisitive, ferreting school-boys, to the reptiles' -menagerie, an old building crumbling with age, and passed long hours -peeping at the chameleons, gazing at the boa-constrictors, trying to -rouse the sleepy crocodiles, which seemed to be already stuffed! What -reminiscences and souvenirs in the dear old Jardin des Plantes, one of -the few "Nooks and Corners of Paris" that have remained almost -untouched! - -[Illustration: THE JARDIN DES PLANTES--CUVIER'S HOUSE -_Water-colour by Bourgoin_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -On the side, the ancient house Cuvier lived in does not look very -stable, and perhaps would go to pieces but for the network of plants -round it: ivy, birthwort honeysuckle, lianes of all kinds caparisoned it -with verdure. They are carpets, cascades of glossy green, shining -together: a nosegay of leaves in a garden. - -Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpêtrière with its walls of evil -memory, the Salpêtrière of the September massacres, the Salpêtrière -whence Madame de Lamotte so easily escaped after her condemnation; with -its broad gardens and its ugly covered-yards surrounded by railings, -where, as De Goncourt said, "Women madder than their fellows" are -confined. The dome, visible from everywhere, commands, like a lighthouse -of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bièvre, the poor, sacrificed -river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bièvre, streaked with -tannery acids, reddened by skins of sheep recently flayed that steep in -it; the Bièvre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so -picturesquely, amidst starch factories, fellmongers' stores and other -works, after traversing the tiny gardens of Gentilly and creating the -illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-à-Mulard. - -Gone is the time when this ill-starred river washed the banks of smiling -meadows and reflected the willows in its clear waters. Tamed, -domesticated, adapted to tasks of every sort, unceasingly used by -tanners, curriers, tawers, dyers, it flows dirty and putrid! To follow -it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Prés must be ascended, and -entrance made into the Rue de Tolbiac. There, through a gate, it enters -a dark, dismal passage, whence it will issue only to glide in a kind of -sinister-looking canal between black, repulsive manufactories. Here and -there, along the scanty banks, a few washerwomen have fixed their tubs -on a level with the water, and sing as they dolly their linen; -elsewhere, wretched urchins endeavour to catch a stray fish that might -have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bièvre disappears -once again and this time underground, coming to view afresh in the Rue -des Gobelins. At this spot, some rare traces of a glorious past are -discovered. The ancient houses have many of them remained. But how often -transformed! The owners of works and of shops, after enslaving the -river, have taken possession of the houses bordering it. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DE BIÈVRE -_Drawn by Heidbrendk_] - -Offices, warehouses, leather stores have invaded the noble mansions of -the sixteenth century, and the Bièvre winds, as if ashamed, through poor -gardens, like it, fallen from their antique splendour. - -[Illustration: THE BIÈVRE TANNERIES -_Etching by Martial_] - -Further on, there are more works and tanneries, black corners mean and -malodorous, where thousands of rabbit-skins, hanging in mid-air, hard -and dry, clash together with a noise of wood. To the very end, the -unlucky river, harassed and exploited, cleans blood-stained skins, moves -heavy wheels, or washes ghastly offal, amidst a smell as of barege. -Finally, it runs to earth once more beneath the Hospital Boulevard, -within evil-smelling, dark holes. - -But before the last fall, the Bièvre passes through an astonishingly -strange lane, one of the oddest in this odd quarter: the Ruelle des -Gobelins. It flows as a stream of red, green, and yellow tints, between -patched-up, mouldy, tumble-down houses, in an odour of ammonia. And yet, -near these hovels, among the heaps of tan, beside pits in which are -macerating skins of flayed animals, a gem of carving rises as it were an -appeal of beauty, a vestige of past splendour. It is the sculptured -remains of an adorable Louis XV. pavilion of which Monsieur de Julienne -had made a hunting-box; and this lovely paradox, this blossom of stone -cast among such a mass of ugliness, is not one of the least surprises of -the quarter so fertile in matters for astonishment. Moreover, a few -yards from this sewer, the artists of the Gobelins Manufactory have laid -out their work-and-study-gardens, in which shine the purple, gold and -azure of the prettiest flowers in France. These, cleverly distributed, -arrange a carpet of exquisite and radiant colours athwart the -surrounding district of sombre sadness. - -On the confines of the town, is the Butte-aux-Cailles, a vast piece of -waste land, cheerless and without charm, which, until 1863, was a sort -of fresh country spot, with mills and farms on it. To-day, it is a -quarter of hard labour, where numbers of rag-pickers classify the refuse -of Paris. At the corner of the Ruelle des Peupliers, faggot-dealers have -set up their huts; and hovels line strange streets made with the -clearings of other streets. - -[Illustration: THE BIÈVRE ABOUT 1900--THE VALENCE MILL-RACE -_Schaan, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -Once, these spacious grounds were one stretch of flower gardens and -market gardens watered by the Bièvre. - -In a most interesting book, somewhat forgotten now, Alfred Delvau tells -us much of the former history, under Louis-Philippe, of the -Saint-Marceau faubourg, the Butte-aux-Cailles, the Rue Croulebarde, and -also the Rue du Champ-de-l'Alouette, in which last street the -"Shepherdess of Ivry" was murdered, the crime by its bizarre character -producing a deep impression in the Capital in 1827. It was a -public-house waiter, Honoré Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimée Millot -by name; she, as a keeper of goats, was popular at Ivry. Every day, she -was to be seen, with a large straw hat on her head and a book in her -hand, tending her mistress's goats. The "Shepherdess of Ivry" she was -called in the neighbourhood; in 1827, there were still shepherdesses in -Paris! - -The trial that followed excited the whole town; the crime was one of -love and jealousy; the victim was nineteen; she was virtuous and a -shepherdess; women "cursed the murderer, even while pitying him -perhaps," wrote the newspapers of the time; and even the giraffe but -recently arrived at the King's Garden was neglected for the Ivry drama. - -On the 27th of July, Ulbach, who seems to have been half-mad, was -condemned to death; and, at four o'clock in the evening on the 10th of -September, he was executed on the Grève Square. - -A Municipal Crèche, in the Rue des Gobelins, occupies, at No. 3, a -fine Louis XIII. mansion, once inhabited by the Marquis of Saint-Mesme, -a lieutenant-general and the husband of Elizabeth Gobelin, close to a -handsome lordly-looking building which in the quarter bears the name of -Queen Blanche's Mansion. - -The legend attaching to the latter is false, affirms Monsieur -Beaurepaire, the learned and amiable librarian of the City of Paris. "It -was," he says, "simply Catherine d'Hausserville's home, where Charles -VI. was nearly burnt alive during the performance of a ballet, his fancy -dress having caught fire." The edifice, with its noble appearance, forms -a strange contrast in this poor yet picturesque district. - -Another fine mansion, in the Rue Scipio, is the one built by Scipio -Sardini, in the reign of Henri III., with terra-cotta medallions, rare -Parisian specimens of the exceedingly pretty decoration that pleases us -so much at Florence, Pisa, and Verona. This Scipio Sardini was a -peculiar man, and his story deserves to be told. Of Tuscan origin, he -came to France after the death of Henri II., just when Catherine de -Medici seized the reins of power. Amiable, witty, ingratiating, a great -financier, clever in his enterprises, and unscrupulous, he quickly -gained a preponderant position in the frivolous, dissolute, mirth-loving -Court. He excelled in combining business and pleasure. An illustrious -marriage seemed to him essential to people's forgetting his low origin -and the rapid rise of his fortunes. He married the "fair Limeuil," one -of the most seductive beauties of the Queen's flying squadron--"All of -them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantôme. This -attractive person had been successively courted by the most noble lords -of the Court before effecting the conquest of Condé, by whom she had a -child. At Dijon, during one of the Queen's receptions, Mademoiselle de -Limeuil was taken ill and was delivered of a boy. "It is inexplicable," -writes Mézeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so -miscalculated." There was a scandal; the Queen Mother was indignant; the -fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Condé who was still amorous, succeeded -in effecting her escape. The Protestants, however, were on the watch, -and induced their leader to give up his too compromising mistress. Then -it was that Scipio Sardini came forward, the richest man of the period, -the King's banker, as also the nobles' and clergy's. He managed to get -himself accepted; the marriage took place; and he settled in this pretty -mansion that we still admire, and that is mentioned by Sauval as one of -the most beautiful in Paris, amidst vineyards, orchards, and fields -bordering on the Bièvre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of -art, books and flowers, and died there about 1609. As early as 1636, the -mansion was converted into a hospital, which in 1742 was once more -transformed, this time into a bakery. To-day, it is the Bakery of the -City of Paris Hospitals. - -Let us keep along by the Wine Market, and, before crossing to the right -bank of the river, respectfully pause on the Stockade Bridge, close to -the small monument erected to the famous sculptor Barye by his -admirers,--to the great Barye who, misunderstood and mocked, sold up by -his creditors, often came in the evening, after leaving his modest -studio on the Célestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this -same place before the splendid panorama of Paris crowned by the grand -silhouette of the Panthéon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views. - - * * * * * - -Nothing is more relative than an impression felt. To certain minds in -love with the Past, this or that ruin is much more affecting than the -most modern palace; it is the same with streets, houses, and pavements. - -An exquisite hour to call up the soul of old Paris is at twilight. - -The colour peculiar to each object has melted into the general shades -and tints spread by the day which is departing and the night which -comes. - -Delicate lace-work outlines stand out against the sky, while huge -violet, black, and blue masses of atmosphere bathe whole streets in -fathomless mystery. Then thought awakens, souvenirs revive and grow -clear; scenes are lived through again of which these streets and houses -were the silent witnesses. One hears cries of fury or of joy; drums -beat, bells ring, groups pass singing 'mid these dream visions that rise -again! - -In order to enjoy such an experience no better spot could be chosen than -the Stockade Bridge, which, with its barrier of black beams, as it were -shuts off to the east Paris of the olden days. - -The City slumbers in the calm of evening, the smoke curls lazily up. -Afar sound bells; swallows sweep crying in the air embalmed by falling -night; noises ascend vague and weird, interpreted according to the fancy -of one's musings. All life seems to sleep; the soul of the past awakes. -It is the hour desired. - -[Illustration: THE CONSTANTINE BRIDGE AND STOCKADE -_Etching by Martial_] - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] There is a pun here in the French impossible to render in English. - -[2] Manon Lescaut. - - - - -[Illustration: THE PONT ROYAL IN 1800 -_Boilly, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - - - - -THE RIGHT BANK OF THE RIVER - - -The Arsenal quarter, built over the site of the two Royal Palaces--the -Saint-Paul mansion, the Tournelles palace--and the soil of the Louviers -Isle, joined to the river bank in 1843, serve as a natural transition -from the old to modern Paris. - -[Illustration: THE LESDIGUIÈRES MANSION] - -Notwithstanding its warlike name, the Arsenal quarter is one of the most -peaceful parts of the Capital. Centuries ago, the palaces disappeared -that brought it its wealth, life and movement. On their ruins and their -huge gardens, humble, tranquil streets have been made: the Rue de la -Cerisaie, where Marshal Villeroy received Peter the Great in the -sumptuous Zamet mansion; the Rue Charles V., where once was the -elegant home of the Marchioness de Brinvilliers, now at No. 12, -premises in which a white-capped sister-of-charity distributes -cod-liver oil and woollen socks to poor, suffering children; the Rue des -Lions-Saint-Paul; the Rue Beautreillis, where Victorien Sardou was -born; near there the great Balzac dwelt. "I was then living," he says in -his admirable _Facino Cane_, "in a small street you probably don't know, -the Rue de Lesdiguières. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite -a fountain near the Place de la Bastille, and issues in the Rue de la -Cerisaie. Love of knowledge had driven me into a garret, where I worked -during the night, and spent the day in a neighbouring library, that of -_Monsieur_. When it was fine, I took rare walks on the Bourdon -Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguières still exists in part; on the -site occupied by Nos. 8 and 10, could be seen, a few years ago, one of -the containing walls of the Bastille; narrow houses have been stuck -against it; and, at No. 10, it is the very wall of the old Parisian -fortress which constitutes the back of the porter's lodge! What a -destiny for a prison wall! - -Of what was once the Arsenal only the mansion of the Grand Master is -left; it is, at present, the Arsenal Library--formerly called, as Balzac -says, the Library of _Monsieur_. It used to be a fine dwelling, the home -of Sully, and possesses priceless books and autographs, and most -valuable writings. In a coffer, covered with flower-de-luces, may be -admired Saint Louis's book of hours, side by side with a fragment of his -royal mantle, the blue silk of it, worn with time, being strewn with -golden flower-de-luces; the old book bears this venerable inscription: -"It is the psalter of Monseigneur Loys, once his mother's;" and was -taken from the scattered treasures of the Sainte-Chapelle. Then there is -Charles the Fifth's Bible with the King's writing on it: "This book -(belongs) to me, the King of France;" and a missal, each leaf of which -is framed with an incomparable garland due to the brush of the "master -of flowers," a great artist whose name is unknown to us. Besides, there -are rare manuscripts, marvellous bindings, unique editions, romances of -chivalry, classics, poets of every age, complete in this fine palace; -together with Latude's letters, the box that served for his ridiculous -attempt against Madame de Pompadour; and, near them, the -cross-examination of the Marchioness de Brinvilliers, and the -death-certificate of the Man in the Iron Mask; Henri IV.'s love-letters -too, with his kisses sent to the Marchioness de Verneuil, and the -documents relating to the affair of the Necklace. How many more things -in addition...! - -Let us add that the curators--Henri Martin, so learned and obliging, -Funck-Brentano, the exquisite historian of the Bastille, the picturesque -relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugène Muller are not only -scholars needing no praise but most courteous and genial men--and you -will quite understand why the Arsenal is one of the few corners in Paris -where it is delightful to go and work or to saunter about. Indeed, it is -a tradition of the house. Nodier, good old Nodier, who was one of -Monsieur de Bornier's predecessors and a predecessor also of J. M. de -Heredia, the master who has so recently gone from us, Nodier, the -admirable author of the _Trophées_, had succeeded in making the Arsenal -the centre of literary and artistic Paris. Hugo, Lamartine, de Musset, -Balzac, Méry, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulié used to meet there; and fine -verses were said while regarding the sun glow with red flame behind the -towers of Notre Dame. - - "The towers of Notre Dame his name's great H composed!" - -wrote Vacquerie. - -Of the Bastille nothing remains except a few stones which formed the -substructure of one of the old towers; and these have been carefully -removed to the Célestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible -to-day. In vain, therefore, would any one now seek for a vestige of the -sombre fortress over which so many legends hovered. Latude's great shade -itself would hardly locate the spot; and yet how full Paris history is -of this traditional Bastille, which the people, amazed with their easy -victory, could not tire of visiting after the 15th of July 1789. Such -was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soulès, the governor -appointed by the Parisian municipality, was compelled to stop the -visits, on the curious ground "that such damage had already been done to -the fortress by visitors that more than 200,000 livres would be required -to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Paré -tell us the fury excited by this strange pretension in Danton, sergeant -of a section of the National Guard, who, with his company, was turned -back by the order. - -Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soulès, -seized him by the collar and dragged him to the Town Hall; the -prohibition was removed; and Citizen Palloy was thenceforth allowed to -exploit the celebrated State prison. The stones were "hewn and cut into -images of the fortress and dedicated to the various departments and -assemblies," or into "commemorative slabs intended to rouse people's -courage." Palloy cut up the leads into medals, and made rings with the -iron chains; out of the marble he manufactured games of dominoes, and -had the delicate thought to offer one of these games to the young -Dauphin to inspire him with "the horror of tyranny." - -[Illustration: COMMEMORATIVE BALL ON THE RUINS OF THE BASTILLE - -Dancing here - -_From a coloured engraving of the eighteenth century_] - -Balls were held on the site of the Bastille. Wine flowed, fiddles were -scraped, and printed calicoes of that period show us the ruins of the -old Parisian citadel surmounted with this inscription: "Dancing here." - -The huge space left vacant by the demolition had to be filled up. -Napoleon I., whose artistic conceptions were sometimes disconcerting, -had constructed there, in 1811, by Alavoine, a strange sort of fountain -of bizarre appearance: it was a colossal elephant, twenty-four metres -high, which spouted water from its trunk. Built temporarily in plaster -and mud, the elephant quickly crumbled away under the action of weather -and rain; and soon became a lamentable débris surrounded with disjointed -planks. The urchins of the district made it the scene of Homeric -struggles; but the real familiars were the rats that had made their home -inside the structure, so that, when the demolition began, regular -_battues_ had to be organised with men and dogs; and, for months, these -dreaded rodents infested the terrorised quarter. In 1840, the present -column was erected; since then, the genius of Liberty has poised over -Paris his airy foot, and Barye's fine lion watches over the repose of -the victims of 1830 that are interred within the crypt of the monument. - -[Illustration: THE SENS MANSION ABOUT 1835 -_From a lithograph by Rouargue_] - -The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome mansions: the Cossé -mansion, where Quélus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by -du Cerceau on the remains of the Saint-Paul mansion and Germain Pilon's -studio; the Sully mansion, whose noble front was not long ago mutilated. -Hard by, at the corner of the Rue du Figuier and the picturesque Rue de -l'Hôtel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, -stands what is left of the Sens mansion, the only specimen, together -with the Cluny Museum, of what private architecture was in the fifteenth -century. After being inhabited by Princes of the Church, Bishops, -Cardinals, and also by Marguerite de Valois (Queen Margot), the Sens -mansion fell on evil days. It became the "Diligence Office"; and from -its courtyard is said to have started the famous courier whose murder -was attributed to Lesurques, the unfortunate Lesurques popularised by -the well-known drama performed at the Ambigu, which caused so many tears -to flow. - -In more recent times, the Hôtel de Sens derogated further still. It -became a manufactory of sweets! - -At No. 5 of the Rue du Figuier, we meet with a draw-well, the top of -which is finely sculptured; the spot brings back the memory of Rabelais, -the admirable Rabelais, who died quite near, in the Rue des Jardins. At -No. 15, opened the sixteenth-century door through which the actors of -the illustrious theatre established on the ancient site of the Jeu de -Paume de la Croix-Noire, proceeded to their private stage-room. It was -before this door that Molière was arrested and taken to the Châtelet, -because he owed "142 livres to Antoine Fausseur, master-chandler, his -purveyor of light." - -Let us cross the Place de la Bastille and go down the Rue du -Faubourg-Saint-Antoine. There, at No. 115, in front of an old -eighteenth-century house, the Deputy Baudin was killed against a -barricade, on the 3rd of December 1851. At No. 303, in the reign of -Napoleon I., stood Dr. Dubuisson's private hospital, where General Malet -was confined. There he hatched the prodigious plot the disconcerting -history of which we intend shortly to relate. Farther on, near the Rue -de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Réveillon's wall-paper stores, -pillaged on the 17th of April 1789; it was one of the preludes of the -Revolution. - -Last of all, at No. 70, in the Rue de Charonne, Dr. Belhomme's private -hospital stood, which was used as a special prison under the Revolution. -Only those were admitted who could pay and pay well. The irrefutable -memoirs of Monsieur de Saint-Aulaine reveal to us a Belhomme familiar, -cynical, exacting his fees and thouing Duchesses short of money who -haggled with him on the question of their life. The most amiable of -historians, my excellent friend G. Lenôtre, whom it is always necessary -to quote when facts of the Revolutionary epoch are in question, has -reconstituted the terrible and surprising story of the Belhomme -institution where they laughed, danced, or even flirted under the dread -eye of Fouquier-Tinville; and has related, with his habitual -documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of Orléans, widow of -Louis-Philippe Egalité, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at -Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orléans family -vault. - -Pursuing our way and passing by the Church of Sainte Marguerite, in -which Louis XVIII. was interred ... or his double, we reach the barrier -of the Throne (the Throne overthrown, people said in 1793). The -scaffold, which had temporarily quitted the Revolution Square, was put -up here during the most terrible period of the Terror, and the "great -batches" were executed upon it. In six weeks, 1300 victims perished, -among them, André Chénier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of -Montmorency, Cécile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet -Roucher, and many others. The bodies of these unfortunate people, -stripped of their clothing, were loaded each evening on covered waggons, -with their severed heads between their legs; and the horrible vehicle, -dripping with blood along the road, was tipped into some pit dug at the -bottom of the Picpus Convent Gardens, where still exists the cemetery of -those that were executed during the Revolution. - -Retracing our steps, we arrive at No. 9 of the Rue de Reuilly; here was -once the Hortensia Tavern, kept in 1789 by the famous Santerre, a major -in the National Guard. The house has not much changed; at present, -however, it is a girls' boarding-school which occupies the large rooms -where the thundering General organised those terrible descents on Paris -and launched those dreadful battalions of the faubourg that terrorised -even the Convention itself. - -On the other side of the Place de la Bastille, in the Rue Saint-Antoine, -near Saint Paul's Church, is the Charlemagne Passage, most picturesque -by reason of the old souvenirs it contains and the strange population it -harbours: chair-menders, mattress-carders, milk-women, open-air -flower-women gather round the ruin of the charming mansion which, under -Charles V., was the sumptuous abode of the provost, Hugues Aubryot. - -The front, which is still remarkable and fine-looking, is an astonishing -contrast to the poor, low houses that huddle round it. Fowls peck at the -foot of the fifteenth-century turrets, which enclose a handsome -staircase; and patched linen dries on iron wire stretched between the -caryatide windows of the seventeenth century, replacing those behind -which once mused the Duke d'Orléans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in -1409, Jean de Montaigu, beheaded for sorcery! who were formerly -illustrious guests in this elegant dwelling. - -[Illustration: THE PROVOST HUGUES AUBRYOT'S MANSION -CHARLEMAGNE'S COURTYARD AND PASSAGE IN 1867 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -And now, let us stop at the Vosges Square on the other side of the -Bastille. It is another rare nook of our old City, which, through the -centuries, has preserved its ancient character very nearly intact. The -houses there, in Louis XIII. style, have not changed. The scenery has -remained the same. The _Précieuses_ could take their favourite walks -there; and those punctilious in honour might draw their sword, as in the -time of Richelieu and the Edict-malcontents; only the public of -spectators would be quite different. The fine ladies of the country -hight Tender, the Cydalises and Aramynthas, the lords once living in -those noble dwellings, they who, on the 16th of March 1612, were present -at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Médici, in honour -of the peace concluded with Spain, or they who proceeded in grand -coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sévigné's, are -to-day replaced by petty annuitants, modest shopkeepers retired from -business and pensioned-off officers. Humble charwomen work at their -tasks in the spots where Mazarin's nieces paused in their sedan-chairs; -and the numerous Jews that live in the quarter meet there on Saturdays. -It is a curious spectacle to see these men and women of strongly marked -type betaking themselves to the Synagogue, which is near a partially -subsisting eighteenth-century mansion still bearing delicate -decorations, but at present occupied by a butcher, in the Rue du -Pas-de-la-Mule. Not a few old men wear the long gaberdine, their hair in -corkscrew curls, and earrings in their ears. Velvet-eyed girls coifed -with bands, wonderfully handsome and peculiarly dressed, assemble there -on certain religious feast-days. It is a strange evocation; 'twould seem -that in these peaceful quarters biblical traditions have been preserved -in some Jewish families. - -[Illustration: THE PLACE ROYALE ABOUT 1651 (NOW THE VOSGES SQUARE) -_Israël, del._] - -The old-time animation, however, is an exception. The Vosges Square, -once the Place Royale, where Richelieu lived and Fronsac, Chabannes, -Marshal de Chaulnes, Rohan-Chabot, Rotrou, Dangeau, Canillac, the -Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Châtelet, where Madame de Sévigné -was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Théophile Gautier -and Victor Hugo, is to-day completely neglected; and this delightful -Paris nook, where so much wit was spent, such fine ladies rivalled in -grace and elegance and so many exquisites drew their swords, is now -nothing but a large, lonely garden, provincial and melancholy, -frequented almost exclusively by the pupils of neighbouring -boarding-schools, who play there at prisoners' base, and leap-frog, -beneath the debonair shadow of Louis XIII.'s statue, with its -philosophic frame of a Punch-and-Judy show and a chair-woman's stall. - -In the ancient Rue Culture-Sainte-Catherine (at present called the Rue -de Sévigné) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the -Marais theatre, built with money provided by Beaumarchais. In 1792, the -_Guilty Mother_ was performed there, for the benefit, said the -play-bill, "of the first soldier who shall send citizen Beaumarchais an -Austrian's ear." The modern building is a modest private-bath -establishment, with a small garden in front in which grow some -spindle-trees--in boxes, and which is adorned with silvered balls. The -huge wall, all grim and grey, backing the slightly-built bath -establishment, is the old wall of the Force Prison, where, on a post at -the corner of the Rue des Balais, Madame de Lamballe was executed, where -also Madame de Tallien was transferred, and Princess de Tarente was -confined, the latter, the grandmother of the kind, courteous and learned -Duke de la Trémoïlle, who had only to dip into his incomparable family -archives to give us the most precious documents of French history, and -to whom we are indebted for those picturesque and exciting "Souvenirs of -Madame de Tarente," one of the most valuable narrations by an -eye-witness of the Revolutionary period. - -The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sévigné's "dear Carnavalette," is -close by, as also the ancient Le Peletier-Saint-Fargeau mansion, to-day -the City of Paris Library. It is a fine, large building of noble -appearance, which contains wonderful books, maps, plans and manuscripts. -The written history of Paris is there; and all workers know the pretty, -sculpture-ornamented room of Monsieur le Vayer, the erudite, obliging -Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poète, Beaurepaire, Jacob, -Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Pètre and Stirling in the -History room are the wise and welcoming hosts of this admirable Parisian -Library. - -All this Marais quarter, indeed, contains sumptuous mansions, not one of -which, alas! has been respected. All are given over to business and -manufacturing. The Lamoignon mansion is occupied by glass-polishers and -garden-seatmakers; the Albret mansion by a bronze lamp-dealer; those of -Tallard, Maulevrier, Sauvigny, Brevannes, Epernon, &c., are still -standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyères offers us -its curious bass-relief, in painted stone, representing a knife-grinder -in eighteenth-century costume. In 1748, a Madame de Pannelier kept a -"wit-office" in this same street; Lalande, Sautereau, Guichard, Leclerc -de Merry used to attend meetings there. They were held on Wednesdays, -and were preceded by an excellent dinner. The tradition has happily been -preserved in Paris. - -In the Rue François-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with -circular pediment, escutcheons and garlands. It is the Beauvais mansion, -built by Le Pautre in 1658. - -To look at it now, old and in a dull street, one would hardly think that -the coaches of Louis XIV.--King Sun--had passed under the dark vault of -the entrance gate and that, from the top of the central pavilion -balcony, Queen Anne of Austria, in company with the Queen of England, -Cardinal Mazarin, Marshal de Turenne and other illustrious nobles, had -watched her son Louis XIV. and her daughter-in-law, the new Queen -Marie-Thérèse of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's -Gate, their solemn entry into Paris on the 26th of August 1660![3] - -On account of its picturesque aspect and the fine mansions it contains, -the Rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier is one of the most curious in Paris. At No. 26 -stands the Châlons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and -wonderful knocker. At the bottom of the courtyard is an exceedingly -elegant Louis XIII. pavilion in brick and stone, and of delicate -proportions. The mansion was built for the second Constable of -Montmorency, and though it is quite lost in this gloomy quarter, it -maintains its proud bearing. - -After the Revolution, this street, whence nearly all the owners of -houses had emigrated, if they had not been guillotined, was completely -stripped of its former splendour. Petty annuitants, small clerks, and -poor people took up their abode in the abandoned buildings. Grass grew -in the streets; many of the dwellings had been sold as national -property; and the Rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier underwent the common fate; it -became democratic. - -[Illustration: THE RUE GRENIER-SUR-L'EAU IN 1866 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -Between this street and the neighbouring Rue des Barres, one is -surprised to see a sort of fissure so narrow that two persons would find -it difficult to walk abreast through it, a sort of corridor along which -the wind sweeps past dilapidated, leaning houses on either side. It is -the Rue Grenier-sur-l'Eau, wretched and dirty enough, but quaint, with -the glorious tower of Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais in the background, -rising and standing out against the sky. - -The proper moment to take a look at the sinister little Rue des Barres -is on a stormy night, behind the church of Saint-Gervais. It is then -easy to imagine what this quiet quarter must have been like when, on the -9th of Thermidor, about eleven in the evening, 'mid torch-lights, calls -to arms, the noise of the tocsin and shouts of the multitude, the dead -body of Lebas was brought thither, and, on a chair, Augustin -Robespierre, who had broken his thighs in leaping from one of the Town -Hall windows. The dead man and the dying man were dragged to the Barres -mansion transformed into a Sectional Committee Tribunal. On the morrow -Lebas was buried, and Robespierre was carried before the Committee of -Public Safety, who sent him to the scaffold. - -[Illustration: THE SAINT-PAUL PORT -_Water-colour by Boggs_ (G. Cain Collection)] - -The Rue des Barres descends to the Seine, near the old Town Hall Quay, -where the big, flat boats laden with apples, stones, or sand take their -moorings. Into it opens one of the exits of the charming Church of -Saint-Gervais, whose fine painted windows, masterpieces of Pinaigrier -and Jean Cousin, were almost totally destroyed twenty years ago by an -explosion of dynamite. Against the church walls, in the laicised ruins -of an ancient chapel, a sweet manufacturer has installed his alembics -and copper pans; and it is a curious sight to see the lighted fires of -this strange kitchen beneath these antique Gothic arches, between these -blackened pillars still bearing traces of the candles that once burned -in front of the holy images, on a ground formerly used for burying and -even now concealing bones. The out-offices of the old church still -remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the Rue François-Miron, -No. 2, on the left of the entrance portal of the church, between a -laundress's establishment and a furniture-remover's premises! - -[Illustration: THE BARBETT MANSION -The Rue Paradis-des-Francs-Bourgeois and the Rue Vieille-du-Temple in -1866 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -On one side, the little Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue -Vieille-du-Temple, where we can admire, at No. 47, what is left of the -quaint mansion of the Dutch Ambassadors, where "Monsieur Caron de -Beaumarchais and Madame his spouse," as an almanac of 1787 called them, -established in 1784 a Provident Institution for poor nursing mothers. -Indeed, it was for the benefit of this undertaking that the fiftieth -performance of the _Mariage de Figaro_ was given. Farther on, to the -right, at the corner of the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, stands the pretty -turret built about 1500 for Jean Hérouet; and, last of all, the fine -Rohan palace, which to-day is the National Printing House. This last is -a noble and spacious building which the elegant Cardinal that once lived -in it took pleasure in sumptuously decorating. A masterpiece may be seen -there, "the Horses of Apollo," in a wonderful bass-relief by Pierre Le -Lorrain. The saloon of the Apes, by Huet, is charming, and the private -room of Monsieur Christian, the witty and learned Director of the -National Printing House, contains a beautiful Caffieri time-piece. Why -must, alas! this fine palace be condemned soon to disappear? The Rohan -mansion is to be demolished, and the State will commit the sacrilege! -May the endeavours of lovers of Paris succeed in preserving for us this -precious vestige of a past that each day removes farther from us! - -A cabman whose astonishment must have been great was a certain George -who, on the 22nd of October 1812, at half-past eleven in the evening, -amid a driving rain that turned the miry soil of Saint-Peter's -pudding-bag (now the Villehardouin blind alley) into a veritable bog, -saw get out of his cab, near the Rue Saint-Gilles, a completely naked -man, with his uniform under his arm--a soldier whom, twenty minutes -before, he had picked up in the Louvre Square. This strange passenger -was Corporal Rateau, proceeding to the appointment made with him by -General Malet, inside Dr. Dubuisson's private hospital and asylum, 303 -Faubourg-Saint-Antoine, where the latter was confined by the -authorities. In his haste to put on the fine uniform of an orderly -officer, which was ready for him in exchange for his own, Rateau had -undressed in the cab; and up the dark staircase of the gloomy house in -the gloomy street he rushed with absolutely nothing on. - -The little house still exists, wretched and dingy-looking, where Malet -appointed to meet his accomplices, on the third floor in the abode of -the Abbé Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the -Bicêtre asylum. - -This adventure of General Malet's is both prodigious and disconcerting. -For, in 1812, at the moment when Napoleon seemed to be at the summit of -his power, Malet, in a sort of dungeon, with the help of five or six -obscure assistants, an old priest with hardly any knowledge of French, a -half-pay officer, an almost illiterate sergeant and a few other -hare-brained people, had been able, even while confined, watched and -suspected, to combine everything, prepare everything, so that the report -of the Emperor's death might be believed--the Emperor being absent in -the icy steppes of Russia, and no news arriving from him. And his -calculations were justified. All the Imperial functionaries, from -Savary, the head of the police, down to Frochot, the Prefect of the -Seine, accepted General Malet's allegations, without testing or -discussing them. Especially, all believed his fine promises; and it is -hard to say where the hoaxer would have stopped if an officer, simply -obeying his orders, had not refused to be gained over with fine words, -and asked for proofs. Malet, being taken aback, grew impatient, and -replied with a pistol-shot. Major Doucet forthwith arrested him, and the -comedy ended in a tragedy. - -All the more haste was made to get rid of the organisers of this plot, -which had so nearly succeeded, as it was necessary to suppress as -quickly as possible their awkward testimony to such cowardice, lying, -and compromise. - -The poor dwelling in the Villehardouin blind alley was searched by all -the Paris police; papers, uniforms, cocked hats, and swords were fished -out of the little well, still existing, into which they had been wildly -thrown. In a few hours, Malet, Lahorie, Rateau, and Guidal were tried, -condemned, and executed. The replies of the General to the Tribunal that -so summarily judged him were home-thrusts. Asked (somewhat late) who -were his accomplices: "All of you," he said, "if I had succeeded!" - -Taken to the wall of evil memory in the plain of Grenelle, he insisted -on giving the firing-order to the execution-platoon; and, as if he had -been on the drill-ground, made the soldiers repeat the aiming movement, -which had not been carried out with military precision. Rateau, who, as -a matter of fact, had understood nothing of this strange drama, in which -he had been one of the most picturesque confederates, is said to have -died in crying: "Long live the Emperor!" - -Between the Archives and the Rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, there -was once a large monastery, which, in 1631, became the property of the -Carmelite Billettes,--the name being derived from an ornament worn by -these monks on their gowns. The Revolution suppressed the monastery; but -the small cloister has come down to us with its charming proportions and -its monastic cosiness. To-day, it is a Town School, and the neighbouring -church is devoted to Protestant worship. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DE VENISE -_Water-colour by Truffaut_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -The Rue de Venise, one of the most ancient Paris streets, is not far -away. It is now a low, bad-smelling lane inhabited by vagabonds of both -sexes. Women, whose age it is impossible to tell, trail and traipse in -front of alleys within which loom greasy, black staircases. Mended linen -hangs from the windows; acrid smoke issues from between thick bars -protecting old mansions now degenerated into mere dens, defended, -however, by heavy doors studded with rusty nails. - -It is hideous, yet quaint, as indeed all this quarter, which is made up -besides of the Rue Pierre-au-Lard, the Rue Brise-Miche, and the Rue -Taille-Pain; not forgetting Saint-Merri's cloister, the name being that -of the old church whose tocsin so often sounded the alarm during the -riots in the reign of Louis-Philippe. - -At the least popular excitement, this inextricable labyrinth of small -streets used to bristle with barricades. At the crossing of the Rue -Saint-Martin and the Rue Aubry-le-Boucher was raised the terrible -barricade defended by Jeanne and his intrepid companions. Following on -the burial of General Lamarque, who died while pressing to his lips the -sword offered to him by the Bonapartist officers of the Hundred Days, an -immense revolutionary movement had galvanized Paris. The old soldiers of -the Empire, the survivors of the Terror and those of 1830, allied in -their common hatred of Louis-Philippe's government, had joined the -malcontents of all parties and the members of the then numerous secret -societies. In the evening of the 5th of June 1832, the centre of Paris -was covered with barricades; and both troops and National Guard had been -obliged to reconquer, one by one, the positions that had been lost. -Slaughter had been going on the whole night. When the dawn of the 6th of -June tinged the house-roofs with pink, the large Saint-Merri barricade -was seen to be holding out; its defenders, a handful of heroic men, had -sworn to bury themselves under its ruins. Already they had repulsed ten -furious assaults; now they were awaiting death; and the loud tones of -the Saint-Merri tocsin, unceasingly sounding above their heads, seemed -to be tolling their funeral knell! Part of the Paris army had to be -utilised to vanquish these dauntless insurgents. Firing went on from -windows, cellars, the pavement. Round the barricades, dead bodies of -National Guards and soldiers, riddled with balls, crushed beneath blocks -of stone hurled from roof-tops, testified to the frightful savagery of -this intestine struggle. For long afterwards, the ground was red with -blood! What numbers of balls and bullets, what quantities of grapeshot -all these old house-fronts have received in the haphazard of riots, -frequent during the reign of Louis-Philippe. - -The drums no sooner beat than the citizens armed and hurried to defend -order ... or to attack it; anxious women, cowering behind closed -shutters, watched for the biers. - -Things resumed their ordinary course immediately the disorder was over; -the insurgent hobnobbed with the honest National Guard whom he had aimed -his gun at on the day before. Sometimes, however, grudges remained. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DU RENARD-SAINT-MERRY -_Etching by Martial_] - -My parents knew an old woman, living in the Rue Saint-Merri, who, for -forty years after 1836, never passed without trembling by the door of -the tenant underneath her flat. As people were surprised at this -persistent apprehension, she said: "If you only knew what happened to -me!" and she related that, one evening when there was a riot and her -husband had been absent all day firing in the ranks of the National -Guard, she was in the house alone, mad with anxiety; suddenly, at the -corner of the street, she saw a stretcher appear, covered with sacking, -which the bearers deposited at her door. Was it her husband that they -were bringing home dead? She rushed out, raised the edge of the cover -and recognised in the person lying with smashed jaw, haggard eyes, -bleeding from a ball in the cheek, the tenant underneath: "Ah, what a -good thing!" she cried; "it's you, Monsieur Vitry!" - -Since that day Monsieur Vitry had given her the cold shoulder. - -In the reign of Charles VI., under pretext of purifying the quarter--the -pretext and the Vicar of Saint-Merri's complaint being only too well -grounded--these "hot streets" were cleared of the majority of low, lewd -people who had taken up their domicile in them. But, if morality had its -claims, business also had its interests; and the worthy shopkeepers of -the neighbourhood, deeming these of more importance than decency, -energetically protested against the measure so prejudicial to their -petty commerce. They gained the day, and, on the 21st of January 1388, -Parliament reversed the Provost's decision, the result being that the -merry band returned in triumph to their old haunts, celebrating the -event with feasting and banqueting. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DES PROUVAIRES AND THE RUE SAINT-EUSTACHE ABOUT -1850 -_Water-colour by Villeret_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -In his _Chronicle of the Streets_, our learned friend, Beaurepaire, -librarian of the City of Paris, asserts that the Rue Pirouette, near -Saint-Eustace's Church, owes its singular name to the "Market Stocks -that stood at this spot. It was an octagonal tower with lofty ogival -windows, in the centre of which was an iron wheel pierced with holes for -the head and arms of vagabonds, murderers, panders, and blasphemers, who -were exposed thus to public derision. On three consecutive market-days, -for two hours each day, they were fastened in the stocks and turned -every half-hour in a different direction. In other words, they were -forced to 'pirouette,' whence the name of the street." - -After doing penance there, in the olden times, malefactors betake -themselves thither to-day to sup. The "Guardian Angel," a thieves' -restaurant, exhibits its signboard almost at the corner of the street: -in it rogues laugh, drink and sing, and hatch their morrow's -exploits. The Staff of the army of vice make it their meeting-place. It -is the fashionable resort, a sort of burglars' "Maxim-restaurant," where -Paris hooligans deem it elegant to appear. Casque-d'or and his pals -reign there, and the scoundrel who has just committed an evil deed is -certain to secure good lodging within, and all else he requires. But it -is not only knights of the blood-letting industry who inhabit this noble -dwelling; other lords come there to eat snails and drink champagne: -suspicious-looking young men with plastered hair, who noisily spend -their money gained by blackmailing or some other reprehensible action. -The place is a disgrace to the Capital. The landlord affirms that there -are honest folk among his customers. The thing is possible--anyway, they -must find themselves in very bad company. - -Quite close, almost next door, at No. 5, is the "Helmet Courtyard," -which gives us a striking impression of what ancient dwellings were. It -was, in fact, once a sumptuous fourteenth-century mansion; to-day, it is -only a hand-cart repository, where shafts point up to the old ceilings -with their projecting beams, shafts shiny with use, and a fishmonger's -warehouse, in which Burgundy snails, and cooked or raw lobsters are -sold. The nook is a quaint one, and the quarter also, with its remains -of the Rue de la Grande-Truanderie, where, on the 10th of May 1797, one -of the ancestors of Communism, Baboeuf, was arrested. - -[Illustration: THE CENTRAL MARKET FOOT-PAVEMENT, NEAR THE CHURCH OF -SAINT-EUSTACHE, IN 1867 -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Molière lived. -This street disappeared when the Rue Turbigo was cut. - -[Illustration: THE CENTRAL MARKET IN 1828 -_Canella, pinxit_] - -In the Central Market quarter, where every one works, where each shop -offers to Paris gourmands the best victuals, the freshest vegetables, -the daintiest fruits, where, every night, long files of market -gardeners' carts bring in loads of provisions of all sorts, each street -has, so to speak, its speciality. Housewives know where to find their -poultry, crayfish, cheese, or oranges. All the little streets, skirting -the Halles, are full of astonishing shops contrived in door-corners, or -cellar-corners, all of which for generations have been kept by worthy -husbandmen, petty dealers, hucksters, or basket-hawkers, having their -own line, their own customers. In the curious Rue Montorgueil, old -abodes that amaze one are still to be found; for instance, between Nos. -64 and 72, the ancient Golden Compass Inn, which was the calling place -for so many generations of carriers. Its double entrance, blocked up -with small butchers', tripe-dealers', and poulterers' stalls, opens on a -huge yard, where fowls peck on heaps of golden dung, where ducks quack, -and goats bleat under the eyes of some thirty horses, peaceful tenants -of the ground floor, with their inquisitive heads thrust over the -half-doors, through the low windows or open air-holes. At the back, -beneath the spacious shed, the carriages and carts are put up, 'midst a -healthy country smell of verdure and hay; and it really is a curious -sight to see such a silent nook, with its farmyard, at the back of the -noisy, populous, crowded street, full of workmen, pedlars, and shouts or -cries of bubbling life and movement. - -[Illustration: THE CENTRAL MARKET IN 1822 -_Canella, pinxit_] - -What is left of the Rue Quincampoix, behind the old Tower of -Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie, emphasises the strangeness of this -neighbourhood, in which the exterior, though renewed, has been partly -preserved, but which has been more modified and transformed as regards -inhabitants and customs than perhaps any other quarter. It was, in fact, -in the Rue Quincampoix that the famous Law established his offices of -the Mississippi Bank. There, all Paris suffered the fever of -speculation. The madness was general. For months nothing but folly and -ruin reigned. All gambled--duchess, priest, philosopher and courtier, -shopkeeper and ballet-actress, peer and lackey, excise-farmer and his -clerk. In order to profit by proximity to the celebrated stock-jobber, -each shop, room and cellar even, rented at foolishly high prices, was -turned into a gaming establishment; and the case is quoted of a cobbler -who hired for a hundred livres a day his stall stinking with wax and old -leather; the gold mania had broken down all distinctions. And then -the fatal crisis came, the panic, the crash. In the Rue Quincampoix one -saw none but despairing faces. Every day there was a series of murders, -suicides, attacks of lunacy. On one single occasion, twenty-seven bodies -of suicides or murdered people were fished out of the river at the nets -of Saint-Cloud. To speculate still, money at any price was needed. -Highway robbery was practised, and the footpads were of all classes of -society. One of these, the young Count de Horn, a relative of the -Regent, and already notorious through his follies, hired two rascals of -his own kind, enticed a rich young stock-jobber into an inn of the Rue -de Venise, stabbed him and took his money. The scandal was enormous! -Both Court and City lost their heads. Would justice at last act and -severity be shown? There was a good deal of intriguing and excitement; -but, finally, the Lieutenant for criminal affairs, acting on the orders -of the Regent, arrested the Count de Horn, on the 22nd of March 1720; -and, four days after, the latter was broken on the wheel and executed in -the centre of the Grève Square, amidst the applause of all Paris. - -[Illustration: MOLIÈRE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE -_Water-colour by Hervier_] - -The Rue Quincampoix likewise contains some few old mansions now -inhabited by certain "medical specialists," cheese-dealers, eau-de-seltz -makers, &c. At Nos. 58, 28, 14, 15, and, notably, at No. 10, are seen -remnants of forged iron, broken balconies, chipped grotesque masks of -stone.... But the whole is tumbling to pieces, and to ruin, and only by -a strong effort of the imagination can one reconstitute, out of these -wretched fragments, the life of luxury, fever and stock-jobbing that -once filled this old street, now foul with chemical smells and rancid -odours of fried potatoes. - -Collé's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris -when one belongs to the Marais!" - -Trade has laid hold of the fine mansions of yore; druggists have set up -their distilleries in them, toy-makers sell their puppets in them, and -the hawker with his Paris article is the monarch that governs them. - -The population at present is poor, laborious, yet intelligent and -active; and the contrast between it and the transformed dwellings -wherein it dwells is not without interest and grace. A visit to the -Archives, Marais and Saint-Merri quarters is certainly something no one -should omit. - -The picturesque line of central boulevards extends from the Bastille to -the Madeleine Church. There Paris life may be studied under the most -varied aspects, as well as the most elegant. - -To speak of there being a general characterisation of the boulevards -would be hardly correct, inasmuch as each of them has its special -physiognomy. - -[Illustration: THE TOWER OF SAINT-JACQUES-LA-BOUCHERIE ABOUT 1848 -_Lithographed by A. Durand_] - -The Beaumarchais Boulevard has an atmosphere of middle-class -tranquillity about it. Nothing has survived of the fine mansion, -surmounted with a feather-shaped weather-cock and flag, which was -built there by the author of the _Mariage de Figaro_, nor yet of the -famous gardens, once the wonder of Paris, which could only be visited -with a special card signed by Beaumarchais himself and given but to few. -Yet some one of our own generation has known them, and penetrated into -what for a while remained of the gorgeous abode; and that some one is -Victorien Sardou. Did he have a presentiment that, in talent and wit, he -would one day be the successor of the Beaumarchais whose property he -thus intruded on? Anyway, in 1839, Victorien Sardou, aged seven, was -living with his parents in the Place de la Bastille. With his little -companions he used to play at ball or with hoop round the elephant and -the canal banks. At the entrance to the Beaumarchais Boulevard of to-day -some long, worm-eaten palisades bordered a piece of waste ground. On the -palisades were hung halfpenny pictures of actors, actresses, and -soldiers; and no one was fonder of looking at them than the little -Sardou. - -One day, while enjoying his open-air picture-gallery, he caught a -glimpse of a huge garden through the interstice between two of the -palings. "What was this garden?" "Suppose he entered!" So he and another -urchin of his own age wrenched away a paling with the sticks of their -hoops, and in a delight of terror slipped into the unknown domain. What -an amazement! They found themselves in a Sleeping Beauty's realm. -Weeds, lianes, branches, trees had grown over everything. It was a flora -and fauna of the virgin forests; rabbits, birds and butterflies were its -denizens; and Robinson Crusoe was not more surprised in exploring his -island than these two youngsters in wandering about this jungle. - -Sardou vaguely remembers there being a ruined pavilion and some -tumble-down old walls; what he recollects better are the banks, ditches, -and slopes where he and his companion had such delightful escapades; and -nothing is more interesting than to hear this witty and charming talker -relate his stories of the bygone Paris which he regrets so much and -remembers so well. - -The old dwellings have disappeared. A single one still exists at the -corner of the Rue Saint-Claude, No. 1. It is the celebrated abode in -which the talented charlatan, Cagliostro, installed his furnaces, his -crucibles, his alembics, his transformation machines, all the weird -utensils that served for his magic sittings. - -The house has not been much altered. It remains, as always, strange, -enigmatical, mysterious, with its staircases constructed in the body of -the walls, its secret corridors, its mechanical ceilings, its cellars of -many exits. The greatest lords, the noblest dames frequented this abode. -Cardinal de Rohan was a familiar guest. The report ran that gold was -made there, and that Cagliostro, the great Copht, had discovered the -secret of the philosopher's stone! He offered, continued the legend, -repasts of thirteen covers at which the guests were enabled to call up -the dead, which was why Montesquieu, Choiseul, Voltaire and Diderot had -taken part at Cagliostro's last supper. - -All that made a stir; there were murmurs; the thing was proclaimed a -scandal. Louis XVI. shrugged his shoulders and Marie Antoinette forbade -any one to "speak to her of this charlatan." But every one tried to -obtain entrance into the "divine sorcerer's house," and Lorenza, his -wife, was obliged to open a class of magic for the benefit of the ladies -of the upper circles. - -Then came the affair of the necklace. Cagliostro, being compromised with -Cardinal de Rohan and Madame de Lamotte, was arrested and thrown into -the Bastille; and it was not until ten months later, on the 1st of June -1787, that he was able to return to the house in the Rue Saint-Claude, -escorted by a crowd of eight to ten thousand persons, blocking the -Boulevard, the courtyard of the house and the staircases. He was -cheered, embraced, carried in triumph. This grand day was a climax. A -few hours after it, a King's order banished him from France, and the -house was shut up. Only in 1805 were its doors reopened for the sale of -the furniture; and the sight must have been a curious one! In 1855, the -building was repaired; the leaves of the entrance gate were changed; -those to-day opening into the Rue Saint-Claude came from the ancient -buildings of the Temple; so that the gates of Louis XVI.'s prison give -access now to the mansion where Cagliostro once performed his marvels. - -In the Filles-du-Calvaire Boulevard stands the Winter Circus, still -unchanged, with its Icarian Games and its equilibrists, its smiling -horse-women who for so many years have leaped through the same -paper-filled hoops and made the same pleased bow to the worshipping -crowd. But, if the spectacle is not much varied, the public of -youngsters is constantly renewed, and the laughs we heard in our -childhood still welcome the same clowns' grimaces. Only Monsieur Loyal -is no longer there, the admirable, imposing Monsieur Loyal, -tight-buttoned in his fine blue coat, who, with such noble gesture and -slashing whip, restrained the mocking clown's quips and quirks or the -shyings of the mare Rigolette exhibited at liberty. - -[Illustration: ALEXANDER'S GRAND CAFE ROYAL ON THE TEMPLE BOULEVARD -_Water-colour by Arrivet_] - -Would any one now believe that for more than a century the Temple -Boulevard was the centre of Paris gaiety? A charming engraving by -Saint-Aubin shows us it joyous, smart, and full of life. Coaches, cabs, -and other vehicles pass and repass; grand ladies and fashionably dressed -women rival with each other in grace, manners and toilet, the latter of -the strangest names; and the draughtsman Briou can write below a fashion -engraving of the period: "The provoking Julia reposing on the Boulevard, -while awaiting a stroke of good fortune; she is in morning gown with a -Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At Alexander's Cafè Royal, there -is supper and dancing; people crowd to listen to Nicolet's patter; and a -circle of hearers surround Fanchon, the hurdy-gurdy player. On the same -Boulevard, Curtius sets up his luxuriously arranged wax-work saloons; -and, later, the parades of Bobèche and Galimafré will be the joy of -Paris; for a long time, the fair will continue. - -[Illustration: FANCHON, THE HURDY-GURDY PLAYER -_Original drawing_ (Ch. Drouet Collection)] - -The Ambigu, the Historic Theatre, the Gaiety, the Funambules, the -Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Délassements Comiques,--ten -theatres or so will add to the excitement with their strange, nervous, -grandiloquent, noisy companies of actors. The gay apprentices, at all -times fond of plays, will cheer as they go by the heroes of all these -dramas and melodramas, so numerous that popular slang had nicknamed as -Crime Boulevard the thoroughfare where, at twelve each evening, so much -blood flowed on the boards of these theatres. There were Madame Dorval, -Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Déjazet, Messieurs Bocage, Mélingue, -Bouffé, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau--the -ideal Pierrot--and also Gobert, so like Napoleon I., as was Taillade, -who, thin and nervous, was incarnating Bonaparte. It was the period when -the Bonapartist epopee turned people's heads to such an extent that the -poor comedian Briand, who, in one of the many Napoleon plays, was acting -the ungrateful part of Sir Hudson Lowe, said: "I shall never have a -similar success. Yesterday, I was waited for at the theatre door and -thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!" - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE AMBIGU-COMIQUE ON THE TEMPLE BOULEVARD -_Lallemand, del._ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -All the quarter waxed enthusiastic about its favourite actors, espoused -their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frédéric -Lemaitre especially, a tragic, dare-devil, drinking, extravagant yet -talented artist, decking himself in private life, as well as on the -stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Cæsar de Bazan, had his own -story. People went into ecstasies over his amours with Clarisse Miroy, -interwoven with thrashings and fond tenderness. On the day after one of -these noisy quarrels, Frédéric is said to have rung at his lady-love's -door, which was opened by Clarisse's mother. The good dame, frightened -at the brutal actor's appearance, raised her arm instinctively as if to -ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frédéric in Richard -d'Arlington's tones, "I beat you! Why?... Do I love you?" - -[Illustration: THE FUNAMBULES THEATRE ON THE TEMPLE BOULEVARD -_Water-colour by Martial_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -The Historic Theatre subsequently became the Lyric Theatre, and the -wonderful Madame Miolan-Carvalho, the queen of song, was there to -create, with her magnificent art, _Faust_, _Mireille_, _Jeannette's -Wedding_, _Queen Topaz_, &c. About 1861, the celebrated composer -Massenet, yet a pupil at the Conservatory and on the point of obtaining -his Rome prize, discharged in the theatre orchestra the duties of -kettle-drummer, for the modest salary of forty-five francs a month. - -[Illustration: THE AMBIGU THEATRE AND BOULEVARD ABOUT 1830 -_Canella, pinxit_] - -Others to perform there were the Davenport brothers and the conjurer -Robin, with their amusing séances of hypnotism and white magic. On this -always-to-be-remembered Temple Boulevard were to be met the various -fashionable authors: Dennery, Théodore Barrière, Victor Séjour, Paul -Féval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard -brothers, Clairville; and the great Dumas used to pass in triumph, -shaking hands with everybody as he went. The coffee-houses had to turn -customers away; orange-sellers made fortunes, while boys sold checks, -conveyed nosegays to pretty actresses, and hailed cabs. People called to -each other, shouted, disputed, laughed above all, under the indulgent -eye of the police and to the noise of liquorice-water-seller's bell: it -was the golden age! - -In 1862, a regrettable decision of Baron Haussmann, the Prefect of the -Seine, suppressed this bit of Paris, so lively and gay; and, on the -ruins of all these theatres, which brought money and mirth to the -quarter, were built Prince Eugène's barracks, the ugly Hôtel Moderne, -and the wretched monument of the Republic Square. Of all this fine, -artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Déjazet Theatre, at the -corner of the Vendôme Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter -different far from what it was when Bailly depicted it under the -Directory. Elegant dames, the Merveilleuses, the Incroyables used to -frequent it for the purpose of nibbling an ice or sipping little pots of -cream, while listening to cithern concerts. Young Savoyards made their -marmots dance in presence of "sensitive souls," and thrifty burgesses of -the quarter took their family to get an idea of the high Parisian life -which made the Turkish Coffee-house one of its favourite meeting-places. - -Restaurants were numerous, being souvenirs of coffee-houses formerly -renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafés. There one found singing and -dancing, and, now and again, plotting. It was at the Burgundy Vintage -Restaurant in the Temple faubourg, the ordinary rendezvous of Paris -wedding-breakfasts or National Guard love-feasts, that--on the 9th of -May 1831, at the end of a banquet given to celebrate the acquittal of -Guinard, Cavaignac, and the Garnier brothers, charged with plotting -against the State--Évariste Gallois, with a knife in his hand, -proposed in three words this threatening toast: "To Louis-Philippe!" - -The great Flaubert lived on the Temple Boulevard at No. 42. There, on -Sundays, he gathered his disciples at noisy lunches--Zola, Goncourt, -Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Céard, George Pouchet--a few yards away -from a building of tragic fame. No. 50, in fact, was the wretched house -whose third-story Venetian blinds concealed Fieschi and the twenty-five -pistol barrels loaded with bullets which constituted his infernal -machine. A train of powder passed over twenty-five lights. The discharge -of grapeshot to be vomited by this dreadful instrument of death was -terrible. The grocer Morey, who had helped to prepare the monstrous -crime, had even taken the useful precaution to damage four of the -gun-barrels, whose explosion was to suppress Fieschi himself. - -Pépin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several -times past the fatal window; and from behind the Venetian blinds, -Fieschi, who was an excellent shot, had been able at his ease to -regulate the aim of his horrible slaughtering-machine. It was intended -that Louis-Philippe, who had ten times escaped the assassin's hand, -should, on this occasion, be struck by it. The conspirators, however, -had not calculated that the King, when reviewing the National Guard, -would avoid the middle of the Boulevard, which sloped down towards the -sides for draining purposes, and would keep to the lower portions, along -which the troops were stationed. The rain of bullets therefore passed -over the King's head, touching only the top of his cocked-hat, and mowed -down women, children, officers and other spectators that were on the -King's left. It was a frightful butchery; the Boulevard streamed with -blood. More than forty victims lay on the road, among them being the -glorious Marshal Mortier, who expired on one of the marble tables in the -Turkish Coffee-house, whither the dead and wounded had been transported. -Fieschi, who was wounded, was arrested in the backyard of the next -house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fossés-du-Temple. On the -19th of February 1836, he ascended the scaffold with his accomplices, -Pépin and Morey. - -At the corner of the Temple Boulevard, to the right, in front of the -first house in the Voltaire Boulevard, the barricade was raised where -Delescluze was killed in May 1871. At this spot, formerly stood the -Gaiety Theatre; while the Lyric Theatre opened its doors on the present -site of the Metropolitan railway station in the Republic Square. - -[Illustration: THE PORTE SAINT-MARTIN -_Houbron, pinxit_ (G. Cain Collection)] - -The Saint-Martin Boulevard, where Paul de Kock took up his abode, in -order to study from his windows, which were on the first story, near the -Porte Saint-Martin, the seething life of the Capital, now has no -animation except in the evening. Four theatres--the Folies-Dramatiques, -the Ambigu, the Porte Saint-Martin, and the Renaissance--add life and -movement to it then; and nothing is more amusing than the hour -following the end of the performances. The coffee-houses fill with -visitors, cigarettes are lighted, newspaper-vendors shout the latest -news; people hustle, and touts run after carriages, in which one sees a -rapidly passing vision of pretty women in light-coloured dresses and -opera-cloaks. Afterwards issue the actors, with blue chins and turned-up -collars, and often looking cross. Last of all, come the handsome -actresses, who quickly step into their brougham, inside which may -frequently be seen, dimly outlined behind the red point of a cigarette, -the form of an expectant friend. - -[Illustration: THE RUE SAINT MARTIN (1866)--THE GREEN-WOOD TOWER -_Drawn by A. Maignan_] - -Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Cléry, -there was formerly a rise in the road, which was the scene of a tragic -occurrence. There, on the 21st of January 1793, the intrepid De Batz had -appointed to meet a few companions. It was determined that a forlorn -hope should be led with a view to snatch Louis XVI. from the shame of -the guillotine. The plan was to force the line of soldiers, to overpower -the escort surrounding the carriage, and to carry off the King. - -But, already, on the day before, the Committee of Public Safety had been -warned "by a well-known private individual," say the police reports, of -the mad plot that was in preparation, and every necessary precaution was -taken. During the night all the persons denounced in the warning as -suspicious were placed under arrest. De Batz, who thought to find a -hundred and fifty confederates at the meeting-place, only found seven. -Notwithstanding their small number, they did not hesitate, and rushed at -the horses' heads. The Guards cut them down. Three were killed. De Batz -managed to escape. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DE CLÉRY -_Lansyer, pinxit_] - -This strange, winding Rue de Cléry, whose thin edge stands out so -curiously against the sky, was the scene of another drama. The father of -André and Marie-Joseph Chénier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of -Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son André, -who for long months had been a prisoner at Saint-Lazare. The poor man -had foolishly taken it into his head to appeal to Collot d'Herbois' -heart(!) and to ask him to free his son. Collot d'Herbois had once been -an actor; and now, on another sort of stage, revenged himself for -having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which André -Chénier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know -in what prison his enemy was confined. Marie-Joseph, the brother, -himself an object of suspicion, had been able to lengthen out the -proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where André was confined. -At this supreme hour of the Terror, it was the only possible chance -Collot d'Herbois had to satisfy his vengeance; and the information thus -unadvisedly but innocently given by the prisoner's father was utilised -by the revengeful actor. "To-morrow," Collot assured the unhappy father, -"your son shall quit Saint-Lazare." He kept his word; and, on the 7th of -Thermidor, just at the hour when the guest was so impatiently expected, -André got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the -barrier of the Throne Square. - -Round about the picturesque Rue de Cléry, the quarter is an odd medley -of little streets, lanes, and alleys: the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance, -the Rue Sainte-Foy, the Rue des Petits-Carreaux, the Rue de la Lune, in -which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempré watching over Coralie's -dead body, and composing libertine songs, in order to gain the money -required for his mistress's funeral. - -In these tortuous, sombre, narrow streets it is easy to reconstitute the -physiognomy of the older Paris; ancient dwellings are still numerous -enough; but, as in the Marais, are given over to petty trade and -industry. After the Egyptian campaign, the Consulate cut a certain -number of new streets bearing the names of victories: the Rues de -Damiette, d'Aboukir, du Nil. On the site of the Cairo Square, once stood -the mansion of the Temple Knights, or Knights Templars. A portion of an -old Gothic Chapel, in which were preserved the helmet and armour of -Jacques Molay, founder and Grand Master of the Order, was used in 1835 -as a meeting-place by surviving adepts of this rite; and Rosa Bonheur's -father, who was a Knight Templar, had his daughter baptized there -beneath an "arch of steel" made by the crossed swords of the Order, clad -in white tunics, with a red cross embroidered on their breasts, booted -in deer-skin, and coifed with a white cloth square cap surmounted by -three feathers--one yellow, one black, and one white! - -[Illustration: THE POISSONNIÈRE BOULEVARD IN 1834 -_Dagnan, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -A delightful picture by Dagnan, which is now in the Carnavalet Museum, -shows us the Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain -to-day; but, alas! the tall, thick-foliaged trees that made the -Boulevard a sort of park avenue have long since disappeared. That lover -of Paris, Victorien Sardou, who was born in it, and who is cheered, -loved, and honoured in it, very well remembers seeing the trees as they -used to be, and his long saunterings in front of the Gymnase Theatre. -Did he foresee the successes he was to gain with _les Ganaches_, _les -Vieux Garçons_, _les Bons Villageois_, _Andréa_, _Féréol_, -_Séraphine_, _Fernande_, &c.? - -[Illustration: THE GYMNASE THEATRE -_Etching by Martial_] - -Further on, we come across the ancient Variety Theatre, whose antique -front speaks of a glorious past; Duvert, Lauzanne, Bayard, Scribe, -Meilhac, Ludovic Halévy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music -bewitched Paris for twenty years. - -Ludovic Halévy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us -an interesting sketch of the Montmartre Boulevard towards 1810: "The -Variety actors had been obliged to quit the Montansier hall; their -vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Théâtre Français. -The Emperor made a decree depriving them of the Palais-Royal premises; -but they were allowed to move to new premises on the Montmartre -Boulevard!... A frightful quarter for a theatre!... It was almost in the -country; not one of the large houses existed which you see there! -Nothing but little single-story shops, wretched wooden stalls, and the -two small panoramas of Monsieur Boulogne.... No foot-pavements, a road -simply of beaten earth between two rows of tall trees.... A few old cabs -and carriages passed now and again.... In fine, the country.... It was -the country!!.." - -[Illustration: THE VARIETY THEATRE ABOUT 1810 -_From a sepia of the period_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -With the Variety Theatre began what was called, without epithet, _The -Boulevard_. For idlers, saunterers, wits, clubmen, writers, journalists, -under the second Empire, it was a sort of sacred ground. -Grammont-Caderousse, the Prince of Orange, Khalil-Bey, Paul Demidoff, -Aurélien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot -were kings there. The Café Anglais, the Maison Dorée, Tortoni's were -frequented by the fashionables of society and literature. The gas -flared, champagne corks flew, and one had only to open pianos for them -to play automatically the Evohe of _Orpheus in Hades_! An apropos -witticism stopped a quarrel. The princes of intelligence held their own -with princes of the blood or of money; as, for instance, on the day -when, at Tortoni's, the Duke de Grammont-Caderousse flung a packet of -goose-quills in the face of Paul Mahalin, who, the day before, in a -small newspaper had severely animadverted on the diva S----, she being -under the Duke's protection. - -"From Mademoiselle S----," said the Duke. - -Making his grandest bow, Mahalin retorted: "I was aware, Monsieur, that -Mademoiselle S---- feathered her lovers, but I did not dare hope it was -for my benefit." - -[Illustration: THE BOULEVARDS, THE HOTEL DE SALM, AND WINDMILLS OF -MONTMARTRE -View taken from the hanging gardens of the Rue Louis-le-Grand -_Water-colour of the eighteenth century_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -Since the dark days of 1870, the elegant Boulevard has become more -democratic. The old dwellings themselves have changed their uses; and -electro-plate is sold in the beautiful pavilion built by Marshal de -Saxe--after the Hanoverian wars--at the corner of the Boulevard and the -Rue Louis-le-Grand. In the eighteenth century, some one took it into his -head to decorate with flowers the roofs of the houses in the vicinity of -this fine mansion; so that it was possible to dine merrily--under the -shade of hornbeams--while watching the windmills of Montmartre turn in -the distance. The example has been imitated in our own times--people -cried that it was an innovation; this is only another error; there is -nothing new under the sun. What is done is merely a modification, and -generally the alteration is for the worse! Tortoni's flight of steps has -disappeared. Taverns, with their onion soup and their sourcrout and -sausage, replace the aristocratic restaurants of yore. The features are -different; but still it is a Paris nook, really gay, amusing, and -original. A walk in it is delightful, though nothing, alas! can be said -to vividly recall the past, since the terrible fire of 1887 destroyed -the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Grétry, Dalayrac, Méhul, -Boïeldieu, and Hérold; the Opera whose façade does not open on the -boulevard, according to the desire formally expressed in 1782 to -Heurtier, the architect, by the King's Comedians refusing to be confused -with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opéra-Comique where, every evening, -in the spacious _foyer_ adorned with busts of dead musical celebrities -and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitués -met whose attendance was a protest against modern music: Auber, Adam, -Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another æsthetic doctrine, -G. Bizet, Léo Delibes, V. Massé, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halévy, -and old Dupin, the last an astonishing centenarian who, one evening, -with rancorous eye looked at Hérold's bust and grumbled: "How that -urchin used to rile me!" In presence of the general bewilderment he -explained: "I was his school companion, in 1806, at Saint-Louis' -College!" we were then in May 1885! This was the obstinately reactionary -Dupin who once drew from a contradictor the threatening retort: "We -missed you in '93. When the next Revolution comes, we'll take good care -not to!" - -[Illustration: THE RUE DE LA BARRE, AT MONTMARTRE -_Houbron, pinxit_] - -The amiable chats, the agreeable meetings which brought together so many -witty people, clever talkers, artists, men of the world, those of the -Comic Opera _foyer_, of the Grand Opera, or the Comédie Française are -now hardly anything but a memory. Not that the practice itself is -abolished. Art gatherings are quite as frequent and as well attended; -but they have emigrated,--many of them to Montmartre, to the "Butte -Sacrée," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing -Salis in his _Chat Noir_ patter; and truly the spot is one of the -Capital's curiosities. - -Gay, industrious, cynical, flippant, and yet religious, this composite -quarter offers the most singular mingling of poets, painters, sculptors, -lemonade-makers and pilgrims. On the Clichy and Batignolles Boulevards, -the revolving lights of the Moulin Rouge illuminate a population of -rakes, dandies, artists, lemans and bullies. Each wine-shop--and there -are many--harbours one or several poets, more or less comic, but always -railers and _rosses_,[4] as the witty Fursy says, one of the best -performers in these "music-boxes." In these latter the great ones of the -earth, politicians, ministers, are unmercifully berhymed, as also the -events of the day; a minister's latest speech, Pelletan's elegance, Le -Bargy's cravats, Santos-Dumont's ascent, the Pope's latest Encyclical -letter, the automobile tax, the divorce of the moment, the King of -Spain's recent visit, or that of the Prince of Bulgaria, all put into -couplets. - -[Illustration: A STREET IN MONTMARTRE -_Houbron, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -Montmartre is the Capital's pot-house; it is all good-humoured laughter -and chaff. People enjoy themselves at night and work in the day, for it -has always been a favourite abode for artists of every kind: Henri -Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantès, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle -Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Massé, Vollon, -Manet, André Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, -Xanrof, Maurice Donnay. Their memory there is alive and respected, the -legend of their prowess is preserved. It is Montmartre's _Iliad_. - -[Illustration: THE RUE DES ROSIERS -_Etching by Martial_] - -A few yards from these noisy streets, the "Butte" begins, on which, at -the close of the 1871 siege, the Parisians had hoisted the National -Guards' cannons. In vain the Government tried to regain possession of -them; and the rest is known:--the resistance, the troops disbanded, -Generals Clement Thomas and Lecomte arrested, dragged into a small house -in the Rue des Rosiers and shot against a garden wall. - -Part of the wall still stands; and though the house has disappeared in -which this tragedy of the 18th of March was played, a little of the -garden itself remains, behind the modern buildings of the _Abri -Saint-Joseph_, vast sheds used as refectories by the crowds of pilgrims -attracted to the basilica of the Sacré-Coeur. - -Indeed, all this quarter is melancholy-looking, silent, quaint, and -monastic. Chaplet, scapulary, candle, missal, and pious picture-dealers -have their shops in it. The spot is a sort of religious fair; even the -streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthère, Saint-Rustique, near the -Rue Girardon, and the Calvary cemetery, overlooked by the awkward -outlines of the old Galette Windmill, the ordinary rendezvous for -idlers, boulevard inquisitives, artists' models, lemans and bullies of -the neighbourhood. The ancient Montmartre, with its picturesqueness, is -again met with in the Rue Saint-Vincent, in the Rue des Saules -containing the "Lively Rabbit" tavern, and in the Rue de la -Fontaine-du-But, sordid streets, bordered with sorry habitations whose -windows are hung with linen drying, and which seem at each story to -harbour a different poverty; strange streets, running for the most part -between a crumbling old house and a hoarding mossy with rain and covered -with inscriptions. As a matter of fact, these palisades serve as an -outlet for the confidences of the "pals" and their "gals" of the -quarter. Amorous effusions may be read side by side with threats, and -the great ones of the earth are sometimes severely dealt with. The -epithet is always a bitter one. It savours of debauch, vice and crime. - -[Illustration: THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE IN 1829 -_Canella, pinxit_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -And yet, in this corner of Paris, which modern embellishments will soon -have made unrecognisable, bits of admirable scenery are to be met with, -exquisite lanes of verdure, birds, tame pigeons, whistling blackbirds; -and one might fancy one's self far away in some peaceful country-place, -if, at the end of all these streets, were not seen the huge -violet-coloured mass of the Capital, in fairy panorama, an ocean of -stone, whence heave, like masts, the bell-towers of palaces, the -turrets, belfries and steeples of churches, with domes, roofs and -gardens--an incomparable vision of art, grandeur and beauty. - -The great Balzac informs us that César Birotteau was ruined by -speculations he engaged in on the "waste ground round about the -Madeleine church." He lost in them the profits realised by his "Eau -Carminative" and by the "Double Pâte des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" -perfumery was swallowed up in them.... - -And, however, César Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the -Madeleine building ground is the highest quoted in Paris. - -In 1802, the surface was occupied by foundation works and scaffolding, -showing the pillars of the church so long since commenced and still in -the building. - -[Illustration: INGENUOUS BENEVOLENCE -_Duplessis-Bertaux, inv. et del._] - -There took place the charming episode depicted by Duplessis-Bertaux, -under the pleasing title: "Ingenuous Benevolence" (an historic fact of -the 5th Messidor, anno X.). A long notice, beneath the picture, tells us -that Pradère, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening -along the Magdalene Boulevard, met a blind street-singer, who "by the -strains of his piano was soliciting public charity." The receipts were -wretched; so our kind artists improvised a little open-air concert and -remedied the ill-fortune of the poor fellow. After delightfully singing, -Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradère made a collection, and poured -the proceeds, thirty-six francs, into the blind man's hands trembling -with emotion! - -[Illustration: THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE (Second View) -_From a sepia of the eighteenth century_] - -Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysées, after stopping for a -moment at the "Cité Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the -hotel of the King's Musketeers. It is a sort of poor market lost in this -rich quarter. - -[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO THE TUILERIES, OVER THE SWING-BRIDGE, IN -1788 -_Original water-colour of the eighteenth century_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -Then comes the Place de la Concorde, the finest Square in the world, -with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysées, the Seine, the -Tuileries, the Garde-Meuble, the Crillon mansion, and the charming house -of Grimod de la Reynière, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at -the corner of the Rue de "la Bonne Morue"--at present the Rue Boissy -d'Anglas--in front of which still stood, until the second Empire, one of -the corner pavilions erected by Gabriel. What souvenirs! the raising of -Louis the Fifteenth's statue; the festivities in honour of the Dauphin's -marriage to Marie Antoinette, so tragically terminated by a -catastrophe--the crowd that had come to witness the fireworks being -crushed in the moat--which was the beginning of the hatred against the -"Austrian woman"; the reviews of the Swiss Guards; the military charges -of Lambesc; the people's storming of the swing-bridge, the gates forced, -the ditches crossed, and then the sinister scaffold, smoking in front of -the statue to Liberty, and the Conventionals terrified, stopping before -they entered their hall and taking a close look at the death which, each -day, hovered over them. "Yesterday, as I was proceeding to the Assembly -with Pénières," writes Dulaure in his Memoirs, "we perceived, as we -passed through the Revolution Square, preparations being made for an -execution. 'Let us pause,' my colleague said to me; 'let us accustom -ourselves to the sight. Perhaps we shall soon need to make proof of our -courage by calmly ascending this scaffold. Let us familiarise ourselves -with the punishment.'" - -[Illustration: CORNER PAVILION OF THE LOUIS XV. SQUARE -At the angle of the Rue de la Bonne-Morue about 1850 (to-day the Rue -Boissy-d'Anglas) -_Etching by Martial_] - -Severed heads were exhibited by the executioner at the four corners of -the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Hérault de Séchelles, -Charlotte Corday, Madame Roland, Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and -Robespierre. A dreadful pell-mell, a disastrous butchery; the ground was -red with blood. Then followed the soldiers of the Empire, singing as -they defiled, on entering the Tuileries to cheer their triumphant -Emperor at his return from some victorious campaign. - -A white head, big golden epaulets, a blue ribbon: such was the -appearance of Louis XVIII., impotent, with paralysed legs, who, in his -carriage surrounded with body-guards, galloped through the Square at -full speed. - -It was at the corner of this Place de la Concorde that, on the 28th of -February 1848, Louis-Philippe, broken and vanquished, got into the -humble cab that proved to be the hearse of the Monarchy. - -Napoleon III., with his blue dreamy eyes, used to cross it nearly every -day, driving his phaeton; and the boy, whom the Parisians of that time -called "the little Prince," would show his pretty fair head of hair at -the window of the "berline" escorted by the household troops. - -[Illustration: VIEW IN THE TUILERIES GARDENS IN 1808 -_Drawn by Norblin_ (Carnavalet Museum)] - -The gates of the Tuileries were again to open, on the 4th of September -1870, under the pressure of the invaders; and, during the siege of -Paris, artillery were to camp in the vast ruined garden. Finally, the -palace of the kings of France was to disappear in a cloud of fire, -'midst the last convulsions of the expiring Commune; and, to-day, a poor -fellow, in a shabby sun-faded cloak and wearing an old felt hat, spends -his time distributing bread and grain to the Paris pigeons and sparrows, -on the very spot where once stood the rostrum of the Convention, some -yards from the place where the four hoofs of the Emperor Napoleon's -white horse pranced, as his rider reviewed the Guard, before flying his -victorious eagles towards Moscow, Madrid, Rome, Vienna, or Berlin! - -The Champs Elysées are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine -avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile--the Avenue Kléber, the Avenue -Wagram, the Avenue Niel, the Avenue de l'Alma--offered most picturesque -contrasts; beside a sumptuous mansion, subsisted wretched little houses, -remains of old hovels that once were scattered all over this luxurious -quarter, where now nothing recalls the waste pieces of land, dangerous -even to cross, of sixty years ago. Under the Directory, Madame Tallien's -cottage (Notre Dame de Thermidor, she was called) to which the -Incroyables and the Merveilleuses dared not go without escort, was -situated as far up as the Avenue Montaigne. Dancing-gardens and open-air -bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafés-concerts. An -engraving by Carle Vernet shows us a Cossack encampment round a humble, -country-looking inn. Now the Le Doyen restaurant stands there! - -[Illustration: THE RUE GREUZE IN 1855 -_Chauvet, del._] - -Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysées were at length altered: side -avenues were laid out, the main avenue was widened; and Emile Augier -used to relate that, in the hollow of one of the trees numbered for -trimming (No. 116, I believe), the ticket porter belonging to the -Gymnase Theatre deposited the one intended for Balzac at the time of the -rehearsals of _Mercadet_. The great novelist, in order to escape from -his numerous creditors, was lodging at this period in the Rue Beaujon, -under the name of Madame Dupont, widow. Gozlan, who ultimately -discovered his illustrious friend's address, added on the envelopes -he sent to him--"née Balzac." - -[Illustration: THE MADRID CHÂTEAU -_L. G. Moreau, pinxit_] - -The curious Memoirs of the Abbé de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us -a striking picture of the Bois de Boulogne under the Revolution: a sort -of forest, or jungle, in which those took refuge who, being suspected, -were tracked by the Committees and the police, and to whom the precious -citizens' card had been refused. "I continually remained in the thickest -part of the Bois de Boulogne," he says. "It seemed to me that each -person I met read on my face that I was outlawed and was hastening to -deliver me to the headsman. I took up my abode in the loneliest place of -the wood. I lit a fire with a tinder-box and some twigs, and cooked my -vegetables; my soup was excellent.... Later I discovered another fairly -convenient spot, on the side of the Bagatelle Villa, quite near to the -Pyramid and not far from Madrid. - -[Illustration: THE BAGATELLE PAVILION -_L. G. Moreau, pinxit_] - -"One night, I was wakened in the middle of my dreams by the piercing -cries of two women, who drew back terrified on beholding me through the -darkness of night. - -"It was a mother and her daughter, who also were flying from an -arrest-warrant. I called to them: 'Keep silence, whoever you are! You -have nothing to fear.' They asked me what I was doing in the wood so -late: 'The same thing as you no doubt are doing yourselves,' I -answered." - -Subsequently it became the ordinary meeting-place for duellists. -Already, in the time of Louis XV., some ladies, the Marchioness de -Nesles and the Countess de Polignac, had exchanged pistol shots in it on -account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazalès -and Barnave went there to settle a political quarrel: "I should be sorry -to kill you," exclaimed Cazalès; "but you annoy us considerably, and I -want to keep you away from the rostrum for a while." "I am more -generous," retorted Barnave; "I wish merely to touch you; for you are -the only orator on your side, whereas on mine my absence would not even -be perceived." Afterwards it was Elleviou and Monsieur de Bieville; -General Foy and Monsieur de Corday; Marshal Soult and Colonel -Briqueville; Benjamin Constant and Forbin des Essarts; with this -peculiarity in the last duel that the two adversaries fought at ten -yards' distance, sitting in two armchairs, which were not even grazed! -And how many others!... - -[Illustration: A PERFORMANCE AT THE HIPPODROME ON EYLAU SQUARE UNDER THE -SECOND EMPIRE] - -Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orléans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord -Seymour, the Duke de Fitz-James, Ernest Le Roy--the Jockey Club at its -formation--organised races there. The stakes were modest; most often, a -few bottles of champagne were gained and lost. Then fashion took hold of -the thing. More importance was attached to racing; and, to-day, it is -the great Parisian event--in festivities. As early as 1850, the -Hippodrome of the Eylau Square revived the souvenir of Antiquity's -favourite chariot-races. - -The Bois de Boulogne became the rendezvous of society. There, was -displayed the luxury of the Second Empire. Its trees and avenues formed -an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the _Curèe_, -Emile Zola was able to write: "It was four o'clock and the Bois awoke -from its afternoon sultriness. Along the Empress' Avenue, clouds of dust -were flying; and, afar, lawns of verdure could be seen, with the hills -of Saint-Cloud and Suresnes beyond, crowned with the grey of Mont -Valerien. The sun, aloft on the horizon, sailed in an effulgence of -golden light that filled the depths of the foliage, flamed the top -branches, and transformed this ocean of leaves into an ocean of -luminousness.... The varnished panels of the carriages, the flashing of -the copper and steel mountings, the bright colours of the dresses -streamed together with the horses' regular trot, and cast on the -background of the Bois a broad, moving band, a beam from the welkin, -lengthening as it followed the curves of the road. The waved roundness -of the sunshades radiated like metal moons." - -The sight has not changed. It is the same triumphal defile, which each -day gathers within these select surroundings the most elegant women in -Paris, fashionable horsemen, vibrating autocars with their _chauffeurs_, -clubmen as well as artists and workmen, who come to enjoy the fair -spectacle, this feast of the eyes, this unique scenery: the Bois de -Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysées. - -[Illustration: THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE ABOUT 1850] - -From the top of the Arc de Triomphe, 'mid the twilight of May, the -vision is a magic one; it is from the terraces of the portico erected to -the glory of the Grand Army that a view is obtained of the sumptuous -quarters of modern Paris. - -Some sixty years ago, Balzac showed his hero dreaming on the hill of -Père-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster -he intended to tame. To-day Rastignac would have to mount the Arc de -Triomphe, if he wished to threaten Paris. Thence, he might launch his -famous defiance: "It is a struggle between us now!" for, if the aspect -of things has altered, the impression made by the immense City is still -and ever the same: an impression of weight, of imperious conflict, of -hard victory. In verity, no one disembarks without a sort of anguish in -this great Paris,--Paris, so redoubtable to the valiant that attempt its -conquest and so prodigal to the fortunate ones that have known how to -win its favour. - - GEORGES CAIN. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[3] Successive landlords have more or less spoilt this fine dwelling. -The grand staircase is almost the only part intact, and it is a marvel. -The carving is by Martin Desjardins, and the oval courtyard retains some -of its ancient grace. - -[4] A word here meaning ultra-naturalistic, broadly satirical. - - - - -WORKS QUOTED OR CONSULTED - - - _History of and Researches into the Antiquities of the City of Paris_. - By H. SAUVAL (1724). - _History of the City and Diocese of Paris_. By the ABBÉ LEBEUF (1883). - _Tableau of Paris_. By MERCIER (1782). - _History of Paris_. By DULAURE (1825). - _Tableau of Paris_. By TEXIER (1850). - _Paris Demolished_. By E. FOURNIER (1855). - _Enigma of the Streets of Paris_. By E. FOURNIER (1860). - _Chronicle of the Streets of Paris_. By E. FOURNIER (1864). - _Paris throughout the Ages_. By E. FOURNIER (1875). - _My Old Paris_. By E. DRUMONT (1879). - _Paris_. By AUGUSTE VITU (1889). - _Paris (History of the Twenty Arrondissements or Quarters)_. By - LABÉDOLLIÈRE. - _Revolutionary Paris_. By LENÔTRE (1895). - _Old Papers, Old Houses_. (1900). - _The Bièvre and Saint-Séverin_. By HUYSMANS (1898). - _The Chronicle of the Streets_. By BEAUREPAIRE (1900). - _Paris-Atlas_. By F. BOURNON. - _New Itinerary Guide to Paris_. By CH. NORMAND. - _Through Old Paris_. By the MARQUIS DE ROCHEGRUDE (1903). - _Minutes of the Municipal Commission of Old Paris_ (from 1898). - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - -***** This file should be named 40306-8.txt or 40306-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/0/40306/ - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. This book was produced from -scanned images of public domain material from the Internet -Archive. - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Nooks and Corners of Old Paris - -Author: Georges Cain - -Translator: Frederick Lawton - -Release Date: July 23, 2012 [EBook #40306] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - - - - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. This book was produced from -scanned images of public domain material from the Internet -Archive. - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40306 ***</div> <hr class="chap" /> <h1>NOOKS AND CORNERS</h1> @@ -200,7 +161,7 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <h4>TO</h4> -<h4>A. G. LENÔTRE</h4> +<h4>A. G. LENÔTRE</h4> <h4>IN TOKEN OF MOST SINCERE</h4> @@ -254,25 +215,25 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">23.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_026">The Pont Marie in 1886</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">24.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_027">The Isle of Saint-Louis</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">25.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_029">The College of Louis-le-Grand</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">26.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_030">The Inner Courtyard of the École Polytechnique</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_030">The Inner Courtyard of the École Polytechnique</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">27.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_031">The Rue Clovis in 1867</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">28.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_032">The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in 1866</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">29.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_033">The Panthéon, in building</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">30.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_034">Procession in front of Sainte-Geneviève</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_032">The Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève in 1866</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_033">The Panthéon, in building</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_034">Procession in front of Sainte-Geneviève</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">31.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_035">The Apotheosis of Jean-Jacques Rousseau</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">32.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_036">The Luxembourg, about 1790</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">33.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_037">Fraternal Suppers in the Sections of Paris</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">34.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_038">Fête given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, Anno VII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">35.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_039">The Rue de l'École de Médecine in 1866 (house where Marat was assassinated)</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">36.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_040">The Gallery of the Odéon (Rue Rotrou)</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">34.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_038">Fête given at the Luxembourg on the 20th of Frimaire, Anno VII.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">35.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_039">The Rue de l'École de Médecine in 1866 (house where Marat was assassinated)</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">36.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_040">The Gallery of the Odéon (Rue Rotrou)</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">37.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_041">The Rohan Courtyard in 1901</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">38.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_042">The Rohan Courtyard in 1901 (second view)</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">39.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_043">The Rue Visconti</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">40.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_044">Alfred de Musset at 23 years of age</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">41.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_045">The Façade of the Institute</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">41.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_045">The Façade of the Institute</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">42.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_046">View from the Louvre Quay</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">43.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_047">Paris from the Pointe de la Cité</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">44.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_048">The Rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin in 1866</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">43.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_047">Paris from the Pointe de la Cité</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">44.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_048">The Rue des Prêtres-Saint-Séverin in 1866</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">45.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_049">The Passage des Patriarches</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">46.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_050">The Rue Mouffetard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">47.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_051">The Rue Galande</a></td></tr> @@ -283,12 +244,12 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">52.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_056">The Jardin des Plantes—The Cedar of Lebanon and the Labyrinth</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">53.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_057">The Jardin des Plantes in the eighteenth century</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">54.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_058">The Jardin des Plantes—Cuvier's House</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">55.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_059">The Rue de Bièvre</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">56.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_060">The Bièvre Tanneries</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">57.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_061">The Bièvre about 1900—The Valence Mill-race</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">55.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_059">The Rue de Bièvre</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">56.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_060">The Bièvre Tanneries</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">57.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_061">The Bièvre about 1900—The Valence Mill-race</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">58.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_062">The Constantine Bridge and Stockade</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">59.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_063">The Pont-Royal in 1800</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">60.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_064">The Lesdiguières Mansion</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">60.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_064">The Lesdiguières Mansion</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">61.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_065">Commemorative Ball on the Ruins of the Bastille</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">62.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_066">The Sens Mansion about 1835</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">63.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_067">The Provost Hugues Aubryot's Mansion—Charlemagne's Courtyard and Passage in 1867</a></td></tr> @@ -302,20 +263,20 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">71.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_075">The Central Market foot-pavement, near the Church of Saint-Eustache, in 1867</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">72.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_076">The Central Market in 1828</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">73.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_077">The Central Market in 1822</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">74.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_078">Molière's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">74.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_078">Molière's House in the Rue de la Tonnellerie</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">75.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_079">The Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie about 1848</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">76.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_080">Alexander's Grand Cafè Royal on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">76.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_080">Alexander's Grand Cafè Royal on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">77.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_081">Fanchon, the Hurdy-Gurdy player</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">78.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_082">View of the Ambigu-Comique on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">79.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_083">The Funambules Theatre on the Temple Boulevard</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">80.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_084">The Ambigu Theatre and Boulevard about 1830</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">81.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_085">The Porte Saint-Martin</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">82.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_086">The Rue Saint-Martin in 1866—The Green-Wood Tower</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">83.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_087">The Rue de Cléry</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">84.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_088">The Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">83.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_087">The Rue de Cléry</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">84.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_088">The Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">85.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_089">The Gymnase Theatre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">86.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_090">The Variety Theatre about 1810</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">87.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_091">The Boulevards, the Hôtel de Salm, and Windmills of Montmartre</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">87.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_091">The Boulevards, the Hôtel de Salm, and Windmills of Montmartre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">88.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_092">The Rue de la Barre at Montmartre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">89.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_093">A Street in Montmartre</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">90.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_094">The Rue des Rosiers</a></td></tr> @@ -326,7 +287,7 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <tr><td align="right">95.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_099">Corner Pavilion of the Louis XV. Square about 1850</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">96.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_100">View in the Tuileries Gardens in 1808</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">97.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_101">The Rue Greuze in 1855</a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">98.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_102">The Madrid Château</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">98.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_102">The Madrid Château</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">99.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_103">The Bagatelle Pavilion</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">100.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_104">A Performance at the Hippodrome under the Second Empire</a></td></tr> <tr><td align="right">101.</td><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_105">The Arc de Triomphe about 1850</a></td></tr> @@ -341,7 +302,7 @@ SOUBISE MANSION—CLISSON TOWER<br /> <h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</a></h2> -<p><i>Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mène +<p><i>Grandson and son of two rare and justly-renowned artists, P. J. Mène and Auguste Cain, my excellent friend, Georges Cain, has abundantly shown that he is the worthy inheritor of their talent. To-day, he wishes to prove that he knows how "to handle the pen as well as the pencil" as @@ -436,8 +397,8 @@ the markets. A glance at the old plans of Paris will<span class="pagenum"><a nam that these unbuilt-on spaces comprised, under Louis XVI., the half, and, under Louis-Philippe, a third of the city's present area. In the Marais and Arsenal quarters, in the Saint-Antoine, Temple, and Popincourt -faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussée d'Antin, the Porcherons, the -Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honoré faubourg, and along all the left +faubourgs, in the Courtille, the Chaussée d'Antin, the Porcherons, the +Roule quarters, in the Saint-Honoré faubourg, and along all the left bank of the river, which last was privileged in this respect, there were only scattered dwellings amidst orchards, kitchen-gardens, trellis-vineyards, farmyards, groves, and parks planted with century-old @@ -447,7 +408,7 @@ and, from the health and pleasure point of view, it is a great pity.</i></p> <p><i>From my window in the Rue d'Enfer, Estrapade Square, close to the blind alley of the Feuillantines, I used to cast my eyes, as far as I could see in every direction, over a wealth of foliage. In the Rue -Neuve-Saint-Étienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once +Neuve-Saint-Étienne, from the place where Bernardin de Saint-Pierre once lived, I beheld the towers of Notre Dame, beyond avenues of trimmed trees; and I could say, like the good Monsieur Rollin, in the distich engraved on his door a few yards away:</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</a></span> Ruris et urbis incola, <i>that I @@ -456,7 +417,7 @@ gardens, through these silent streets so propitious to quiet labour, and scenting of lilacs and blossoming with pink and white chestnuts, new roads have been cut; the Saint-Germain and Saint-Michel Boulevards, the Rues de Rennes and Gay-Lussac, the Rue Monge which caused the demolition -of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Étienne itself; +of the rustic cottage where Pascal died in the Rue Saint-Étienne itself; and the Rue Claude-Bernard which did away with the Feuillantines, where Victor Hugo, as a child, used to chase butterflies. Soon, the last of the monastic enclosures of the Saint-Jacques quarter, that of the @@ -478,7 +439,7 @@ of the Marais could then have done. During the midsummer heat, Paris was as full as in winter's cold; and the theatres reaped their most abundant harvest, especially popular ones like the Ambigu, the Porte-Saint-Martin, the Gaieti, the Cirque, the Folies-Dramatiques, the -Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Théâtre Historique, &c., which were +Petit Lazary, Madame Saqui's, the Théâtre Historique, &c., which were situated near together about the Temple Boulevard. The fine weather allowed people living at long distances to come on foot to this dramatic fair, saving the price of a carriage both ways, and to make tail at the @@ -540,10 +501,10 @@ Revolution and the First Empire. Each step in it awoke souvenirs that people thought but little of in my childhood, romanticism being more interested in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and more inquisitive about the massacre of Saint-Barthelemy than about those of September. It -looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Grève Square, but +looked with tenderness at the old corner turret of the Grève Square, but gave no glance at the sign-post on the same Square, where the unfortunate Foulon was hanged. It deplored the disappearance of the -Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orléans was +Barbette Gate which marked the site where Charles d'Orléans was murdered, but did not suggest going to see, a few steps further, in the Rue des Ballets, the post where Madame de Lamballe's corpse was beheaded. Artists, novelists, poets, historians disdained these @@ -559,7 +520,7 @@ chambermaid arrested by the porter, just as she is going off with her mistress's gown on her back!</i></p> <p><i>In his</i> "Stello," <i>Alfred de Vigny is quite as indifferent to local -colouring as he is to facts. He places André Chénier's scaffold "on the +colouring as he is to facts. He places André Chénier's scaffold "on the Revolution Square" after taking him thither in a cart laden with more than "eighty victims, among them being some women with children sucking at the breast"!!!</i></p> @@ -655,7 +616,7 @@ contemporaries of the Pharaohs lie piously buried beneath the column of the Bastille, side by side with the July heroes.</i></p> <p><i>I knew the courtyard of the Louvre when it had a statue of the Duke of -Orléans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clésinger succeeding +Orléans, put away after 1848, one of Francis I. by Clésinger succeeding it. Some fool or other having nicknamed it the "Sire de Framboisy," the joke was too idiotic not to have the greatest success. And to the nickname is partly due the disappearance of a work of art that deserved @@ -672,10 +633,10 @@ was flanked with an ugly wooden corridor, for ever ready to flare up! For, as tradition has it, there is always some permanent risk of fire in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xl" id="Page_xl">[Pg xl]</a><br /><a name="Page_xli" id="Page_xli">[Pg xli]</a></span> the vicinity of the Museum! On the same side, the Civil Service had run up temporary buildings which, from the small courtyard of the -Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Pères bridge, enclosed the ruins of +Sphinx to the gate facing the Saints-Pères bridge, enclosed the ruins of the ancient church of Saint-Thomas-du-Louvre and its dependencies, such -as the Priory where Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Nanteuil, -Arsène Houssaye, and others, had established their "Bohème galante." +as the Priory where Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Nanteuil, +Arsène Houssaye, and others, had established their "Bohème galante." These buildings, in favour of which extenuating circumstances might be pleaded, were hired out to colour, engraving, picture, and curiosity-dealers of all kinds. I still see a large shop of knick-knacks @@ -708,7 +669,7 @@ with dirt and slime.</i></p> <i>"Gouache" by the Chevalier de Lespinasse</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> -<p><i>As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orléans seemed to have had +<p><i>As for the Palais Royal, which the Duke d'Orléans seemed to have had built, so that it might be the Forum of the Revolution, if it was no longer the rendezvous of politicians, clubmen, gazetteers, open-air orators, and stock-jobbers, the battlefield of 1793 Republicans and @@ -750,13 +711,13 @@ totally suppressed, or at least to be broken up into lots!</i></p> <p><i>Time was when I have seen the Place de la Concorde without its fountains and its statues, save the four horses of Marly—those of Coysevox at the gate of the Tuileries, those of Coustou at the entrance -to the Champs-Elysées. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns +to the Champs-Elysées. When I was a boy, the socles of the future towns of France were being restored. Since the days of Louis XV., they had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xlvii" id="Page_xlvii">[Pg xlvii]</a></span> been decked with plaster caps, like saucepan lids, and were despised so much that the one bearing the town of Strasburg was flanked with a base stove-pipe. Anyway, it was the only one that shocked one's eyes. Count those at present that crown the monuments of Gabriel! Round the Square -the ditches still remained, which on fête days had already made so many +the ditches still remained, which on fête days had already made so many victims through the hindrance they offered to the crowd's getting away. One evenings when some fireworks were being let off on the Concorde bridge in honour of the King's birthday, I had only just time enough to @@ -770,7 +731,7 @@ where to put it so as to conciliate everybody's opinion. The old stone monument, indifferent to all parties, was a fitting symbol of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xlix" id="Page_xlix">[Pg xlix]</a></span> Concord.</i></p> -<p><i>The Champs-Elysées are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under +<p><i>The Champs-Elysées are unrecognisable now by any one who saw them under Louis-Philippe! The avenue was not then, like the Boulevard des Italiens, the meeting-place for what was called, in foolish Anglomania, "Fashion." Ices were not drunk there as on Tortoni's steps. Society @@ -808,7 +769,7 @@ repositories, coach-houses, riding-schools, and carriage-builders' premises—particularly carriage-builders'! Near the Rue Chaillot, the Avenue was bordered, on the left, with a broad turf embankment. I have seen, in the fine-weather season, diners cutting up their melon and -leg-of-mutton on it, with the naïve joy of city folk enjoying the purer +leg-of-mutton on it, with the naïve joy of city folk enjoying the purer field air.</i></p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_011" id="ILL_011"></a> @@ -843,7 +804,7 @@ off the ashes with his little finger, and stuck it right in the eye of the footpad, who loosed him with a howl that Polyphemus might have uttered! This souvenir haunted me; and, after traversing a wretched hamlet, in which I was guided only by the slope of the ground, I at last -breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pépinière, promising +breathed freely again in the neighbourhood of the Pépinière, promising myself that I would never again venture into such a cut-throat locality.</i></p> @@ -871,7 +832,7 @@ the old Paris, but that I am fond of the new.</i></p> palaces, churches, monuments, streets, and squares; the Paris of literature and its admirable procession of writers, poets, thinkers, dramatists, philosophers, and humourists; the Paris of society, its -fêtes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of +fêtes, receptions, fashions, elegancies, and snobbism; the Paris of politicians, the Paris of journalists, religious Paris, the Paris of the police, bohemian Paris, industrial Paris. And how many others still!</p> @@ -894,7 +855,7 @@ means of walks through what remains to us of the dear old Paris, the series of documents painted, pencilled, or engraved which are contained in the Carnavalet Museum.</p> -<p>The house that Madame de Sévigné loved so much has, in fact, become the +<p>The house that Madame de Sévigné loved so much has, in fact, become the museum of the historical collections of the French Capital.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"><a name="ILL_012" id="ILL_012"></a> @@ -963,7 +924,7 @@ designs, etchings, and lithographs borrowed from private collections, museums, libraries—and our very pleasant duty is to remark on the exceeding good grace with which every one has helped us. May our gratitude be allowed to mention the names of Messieurs Sardou, Claretie, -Detaille, Lavedan, Lenôtre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. +Detaille, Lavedan, Lenôtre, Bouchot, H. Martin, Funck-Brentano, A. Meignan, Massenet, Pigoreau, Ch. Drouet, de Rochegude, Beaurepaire, Ch. Sellier, J. Robiquet, our masters or our friends, not forgetting many, besides, who have lent us most precious aid. Indeed, when Paris is in @@ -979,7 +940,7 @@ apropos—"Excuse the faults of the author."</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_013" id="ILL_013"></a> <img src="images/ill_013.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE PONT-ROYAL, THE TUILERIES, AND THE LOUVRE (18th CENTURY)<br /> -(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) <i>Noël, pinxit.</i></span> +(View taken from the Pont-Neuf.) <i>Noël, pinxit.</i></span> </div> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> @@ -1022,7 +983,7 @@ Augustines, the King betook himself thither from the Louvre in a magnificent barque, accompanied by the Queen-Mother, Catherine de Medici, and by Queen Louise de Vaudemont, his wife. Henri III. looked melancholy; on the same morning, he had interred, in the Church of St. -Paul Quélus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds +Paul Quélus, the dearest of his favourites, who had died from wounds received, some weeks before, in the famous duel of the Minions.</p> <p>The irreverent Parisians did not hesitate to declare that, out of @@ -1031,7 +992,7 @@ Bridge of Tears." But this opinion did not last; and, as soon as Henri IV. had inaugurated it, in June 1603, "still unsafe" and unachieved, the Pont-Neuf became the gayest place in Paris. Mondor sold his balsam there, and Tabarin spouted his idle talk; there it was that the ape -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a><br /><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a><br /><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> Brioché amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were +of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a><br /><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a><br /><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> Brioché amused the passers-by; there that the Mazarinades were hummed; there that duellists unsheathed their swords, and the bands of Cartouche and Mandrin gallantly relieved pedestrians of their purses. On the merry Pont-Neuf all Paris took their airings, enjoyed themselves, @@ -1080,7 +1041,7 @@ of antique marble statues?...</p> <p>But the glory of the City is Notre-Dame! Let us follow the winding, picturesque Rue Chanoinesse, where the great Balzac lodged Madame de la Chanterie, and, at No. 18, let us climb the tottering staircase of the -Dagobert Tower, an old and precious débris of the canonical buildings +Dagobert Tower, an old and precious débris of the canonical buildings that once enclosed the Cathedral of Paris. A few dozen worn-down steps will bring us to a narrow platform whence we shall behold an admirable sight.</p> @@ -1120,18 +1081,18 @@ demi-obscurity of their chapels, more devout, more touched, and closer to the infinite, beneath the painted windows darkened by the dust of centuries and the smoke of incense.</p> -<p>In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hôtel-Dieu, before +<p>In the prolongation of Notre Dame and behind the Hôtel-Dieu, before reaching the Palais de Justice, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> formerly came across a labyrinth of winding, narrow, evil-smelling streets—the Rue de la Juiverie, the Rue -aux Fèves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries +aux Fèves, the Rue de la Calandre, the Rue des Marmousets; for centuries this quarter had been the haunt of the lowest prostitution; there, too, dyers had established their many-coloured tubs; and blue, red, or green streams flowed down these streets with their old Parisian names. Humble chapels nestled under the eaves of Notre-Dame,—Sainte-Marine, Saint-Pierre-aux-Bœufs, and Saint-Jean-le-Rond, in which last -d'Alembert was buried. The Hôtel-Dieu opened on the right of the +d'Alembert was buried. The Hôtel-Dieu opened on the right of the Cathedral, and formed, with the close of Notre-Dame, a really imposing -setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hôtel-Dieu +setting for it. On this site, the Second Empire built the new Hôtel-Dieu and the Prefecture of Police; and these two ugly structures, without taste or originality, seem to be the natural foils of France's national glory, Notre-Dame-de-Paris.</p> @@ -1160,7 +1121,7 @@ from the Cathedral.</p> <p>Along the Rue de la Colombe passed the Gallo-Roman belt of the City, near the house inhabited by Fulbert, the uncle who employed such cruel -arguments with the unfortunate Héloïse, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des +arguments with the unfortunate Héloïse, Abelard's friend. In the Rue des Ursins, at No. 19, may still be perceived the remains of a chapel of the twelfth century, by name Saint-Aignan; St. Bernard is said to have preached in it. It was one of the numerous sanctuaries in which, during @@ -1178,7 +1139,7 @@ confessing people in lofts, outhouses, and back-shops. In the Rue Neuve-des-Capucins, mass was said<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> in a chamber above the very dwelling occupied by the terrible Conventional Babœuf.</p> -<p>Did not the Abbé Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths +<p>Did not the Abbé Emery, the Superior of Saint-Sulpice, from the depths of his dungeon, where he strengthened the courage of the prisoners ("he prevents them from crying out," said Fouquier-Tinville), organise throughout the Paris prisons a ministry of monks that visited all the @@ -1190,7 +1151,7 @@ priests, placed there, wafted to the condemned the absolution pronounced over the dying.</p> <p>Let us go to the other side of the close of Notre-Dame, where the -Hôtel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower +Hôtel-Dieu and its dependencies used to stand. There, once was the Tower of the Foundlings, and the Cagnards, that old den of debauch of which Meryon has left us such powerful etchings, and before which, as a child, we were accustomed to stop with dread, while we watched the huge rats @@ -1209,7 +1170,7 @@ network of small streets round the Sainte-Chapelle and the Prefecture of Police, with gardens that ran nearly down to the water's edge. At the Pont Saint-Michel, some old houses still remain which witnessed the riots of 1793, 1830, and 1848;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a><br /><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a><br /><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> another is to be found on the Quai des -Orfèvres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist +Orfèvres, where the celebrated Sabra worked; he was a popular dentist who modestly called himself the "people's tooth-drawer." To-day it is one of the spots dear to lovers of old books, with its open-air book-stalls, and also to anglers, who, in the sun and out of the way of @@ -1238,11 +1199,11 @@ the Pont-Neuf, a few yards from the Conciergerie!</p> liberty, she saw once more as she was being led to the guillotine amid the shouts of infuriated men and women. Sanson had taken his ghastly procession along the usual road—the Pont-au-Change, the Quai de la -Mégisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the +Mégisserie, the Trois-Marie Square; and so, turning her eyes to the further bank of the Seine, the poor woman, before she died, was able to give a last look at the scenery she had been familiar with in happier years, scenery over which rose the massive walls of the French -Panthéon—it was the new name of Sainte-Geneviève's Church which the +Panthéon—it was the new name of Sainte-Geneviève's Church which the Convention had just re-baptized and devoted to the worship of our national glories.</p> @@ -1253,11 +1214,11 @@ staircase of the Palais de Justice.</p> <p>The nine steps that put it on a level with the Cour du Mai were mounted by all the condemned victims of the Revolution. The Queen and Charlotte -Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubért's widow, the virtuous Bailly and +Corday, Madame Elizabeth and Hubért's widow, the virtuous Bailly and Madame du Bailly, Fouquier-Tinville and Monsieur de Malesherbes, Danton, Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, the Abbess of Montmartre, Madame de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a><br /><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a><br /><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a><br /><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a><br /><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> Monaco and Anacharsis Clootz: princesses and Conventional, dukes -and Hébertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the +and Hébertists, generals of the Republic and "Fouquiers sheep," the noblest, purest, bravest, the maddest and most miserable crossed this fateful threshold.</p> @@ -1320,7 +1281,7 @@ looks and language, and even the last kiss and embrace.</p> <p>This railing still exists, black, rusty, and ill-looking, creaking as of yore; and it is not difficult to conjure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a><br /><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a><br /><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> up the images of those that -bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cécile Renaud, Lucile +bent over it. Madame Elizabeth, Madame Roland, Cécile Renaud, Lucile Desmoulins, Madame de Montmorency, and Charlotte Corday touched it with their dresses; and Du Barry, one of the few women who trembled at the prospect of death—"A minute longer, headsman"—also clung to it!</p> @@ -1348,7 +1309,7 @@ screen once divided it off from the chamber where two prison gendarmes were continually on guard. There, the unfortunate woman pined, in lack<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> of everything, a prey to anxiety, without news of her family, reduced to borrow the linen she required from the kindness of Richard, the porter. -Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorlière, who, "not +Her last tire-woman was the humble servant Rosalie Lamorlière, who, "not daring to make her a single curtsey for fear of compromising or afflicting her," threw over her shoulders a white linen handkerchief, an hour before her departure to the scaffold.</p> @@ -1357,7 +1318,7 @@ hour before her departure to the scaffold.</p> from the apothecary's room, whither Robespierre—with fractured, hanging jaw, his stockings down over his ankles on account of his varicose sores, still clad in the fine, blue suit that, a few weeks previously, -at the Fête of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous—was hustled, +at the Fête of the Supreme Being, had made so many jealous—was hustled, all over blood and mud, like a hideous bundle.</p> <p>Sinister-looking, silent, showing no signs of life save by the twinges @@ -1419,25 +1380,25 @@ scenes of agony! As Paul-Louis Courier used to repeat: <i>Immane nefas.</i></p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_024" id="ILL_024"></a> <img src="images/ill_024.jpg" width="600" height="457" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE DAUPHINE SQUARE IN 1780<br /> -<i>Drawing by Duché de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)</i></span> +<i>Drawing by Duché de Vancy (Exhibition of Painting, Carnavalet Museum)</i></span> </div> <p>At the rear of the Palais de Justice was formerly the delightful Dauphine Square, where the first "Public Exhibitions of Youth" were held, the exhibits being works of artists not belonging to the official Academies. The Carnavalet Museum possesses a most amusing pencil -drawing, signed "Duché de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this +drawing, signed "Duché de Vancy," and dated May 1783, which bears this manuscript inscription: "Picturesque view of the Exhibition of paintings and drawings, on the Dauphine Square, the day of the lesser Corpus Christi feast." As a matter of fact, on the Sunday of the Corpus Christi, "when it did not rain," artists had the authorisation—in the morning—to submit their works to the public; if it did rain—and this -was the case in 1783—the fête was adjourned to the following Thursday. +was the case in 1783—the fête was adjourned to the following Thursday. The pictures were exposed in the northern corner of the Square, on white hangings fixed by the shopkeepers in front of their shops; and the Exhibition extended on to the bridge as far as opposite the good Henri's statue. Oudry, Restout, de Troy, Grimoud, Boucher, Nattier, Louis -Tocqué, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an +Tocqué, and, last of all, Chardin showed their works there. In an excellent study devoted to these Exhibitions of Youth, Monsieur Prosper Dorbec details the works that Chardin took to this ephemeral Salon of the Dauphine Square. In 1728, when he was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a><br /><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a><br /><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> twenty-nine, he presented @@ -1463,32 +1424,32 @@ the Minor Exhibitors of the Dauphine Square.</p> <p>The Isle of Saint-Louis is, in some sort, the continuation of the old City. It is a kind of provincial town in Paris. The streets are silent and deserted; there are no shops, no promenaders, no business; a few old -aristocratic mansions, with their tall façades, their emblazoned +aristocratic mansions, with their tall façades, their emblazoned pediments and their severe architecture, alone tell the glorious past of this noble quarter.</p> <p>The finely carved spire of Saint-Louis' Church confers an elegance on -the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orléans and Bethune contain +the somewhat melancholy whole. The quays of Orléans and Bethune contain vast buildings of grand style. In the Rue Saint-Louis, is the admirable Lambert mansion, that masterpiece of the architect Le Vau, which was lost at the gaming-table in one night by Monsieur Dupin de Chenonceaux, the ungrateful pupil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Le Brun painted the -gallery of the Fêtes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses.</p> +gallery of the Fêtes in it, and Le Sueur the saloon of the Muses.</p> -<p>At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Châtelet +<p>At that time, it was the rendezvous of all the wits. Madame du Châtelet throned there, Voltaire lived in it, and the Lambert mansion radiated over the length and breadth of dazzled Paris.</p> <p>Then came darker days. The masterpieces of Le Sueur were sold—most of them found their way to the Louvre—and nothing survives of this great -painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaïeu placed under +painter's work in the Lambert mansion except a grey camaïeu placed under a staircase, and a few panels scattered here and there.</p> <p>Last of all—as if to mark its definitive decadence;—the mansion was occupied by some military-bed purveyors. The fine carvings, sumptuous paintings and gilded arabesques disappeared beneath a thick white dust from cards of wool. In the great gallery, so magnificently decorated by -Le Brun and Van Opstaël, mattress-women set up their trestles and +Le Brun and Van Opstaël, mattress-women set up their trestles and seamstresses began to sew sacking.</p> <p>Later, Prince Czartorisky bought this noble dwelling and thus saved it @@ -1500,7 +1461,7 @@ disembarked for the first time in Paris, on the 19th of October 1784, a pale-complexioned youth of resolute brow, with eyes that gazed from their depths on the horizons of the immense<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a><br /><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a><br /><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> town. It was Bonaparte, a pupil from the Brienne School, who had come to continue his studies at -the École Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Cæsar had of the +the École Militaire; and the first glimpse the future Cæsar had of the great Paris which was ultimately to acclaim him was the apse of Notre-Dame, the old and venerable Notre-Dame in which he was to be crowned, and round which, in preparation for the coronation day, the 2nd @@ -1523,7 +1484,7 @@ belonging to the seventeenth century: a fine frame for a fine project.</p> <p>In this old quarter of the Isle of Saint-Louis, at the confluence of the Seine's two arms, painters, writers and poets have always dwelt: George -Sand, Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Méry, Daubigny, +Sand, Baudelaire, Théophile Gautier, Gérard de Nerval, Méry, Daubigny, Corot, Barye, Daumier, all lived there for a long time. In the Lauzun mansion, were held the sittings of the hashish smokers' club; and the chipped Virgin that looks from her niche at the corner of the Rue @@ -1556,7 +1517,7 @@ the sinking sun. The Seine flows with a surface of liquid gold.</p> <hr class="chap" /> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_028" id="ILL_028"></a> <img src="images/ill_028.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">BUILDING OF THE PANTHÉON<br /> +<span class="caption">BUILDING OF THE PANTHÉON<br /> <i>Fragment of a water-colour by Saint-Aubin</i></span> </div> @@ -1568,14 +1529,14 @@ We find the arenas of Lutecia, and, above all, the Thermae of Julian, saved from destruction by the taste and initiative of Du Sommerard at the moment when these grandiose ruins, which were being used as coopers' store-rooms, were about to be pulled down, involving in their fall that -jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hôtel de Cluny. Quite +jewel of the fifteenth century, the marvellous Hôtel de Cluny. Quite recently, remains of Roman substructures have been discovered near the College de France, in the Rue Saint-Jacques and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> Saint-Michel Boulevard; but the glory of the left bank of the river was, in particular, the University and the Sorbonne.</p> <p>Little to-day is left of these old walls; but, ten years ago, the hill -of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness.</p> +of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_029" id="ILL_029"></a> <img src="images/ill_029.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="" /> @@ -1585,9 +1546,9 @@ of Sainte-Geneviève still preserved much of its whilom picturesqueness.</p> <p>There was the Rue Saint-Jacques, with its old book-sellers and seventeenth-century houses, and especially—what dread -reminiscences!—the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycée, where +reminiscences!—the heavy-leaved gate of the Louis-le-Grand Lycée, where Robespierre, Camille Desmoulins, and the future Marshal Brune had -studied under the mastership of the good Abbé Berardier. I confess that +studied under the mastership of the good Abbé Berardier. I confess that the Louis-le-Grand of our boyhood was black, and gloomy enough also, with its moss-grown playgrounds, its smoky rooms, its punishment chambers up under the roof, where one was frozen in winter and stifled @@ -1600,10 +1561,10 @@ pensive.</p> <p>There was the Sorbonne, with its paved courtyard, where we used to wait, pale, feverish and anxious, for the posting of the small white notice bearing the names of those candidates for the Baccalaureat that were -admitted to the <i>vivâ voce</i>; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea -of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernès, while we blessed the +admitted to the <i>vivâ voce</i>; and we were half-dead with fear at the idea +of appearing before the terrible Monsieur Bernès, while we blessed the gods to have given us as examiner<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a><br /><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a><br /><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> the witty and indulgent Monsieur -Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old.</p> +Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 277px;"><a name="ILL_030" id="ILL_030"></a> <img src="images/ill_030.jpg" width="277" height="400" alt="" /> @@ -1612,9 +1573,9 @@ Mézières, who, at least for his part, has not grown old.</p> </div> <p>Further on, in the rear of Sainte-Barbe, we come to the Rue de la -Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève, alive and teeming with its old mansions +Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève, alive and teeming with its old mansions converted into dispensaries or business premises, its petty trades, its -popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated École +popular dancing-rooms, and, last but not least, its celebrated École Polytechnique, dear to all Parisians, which adds its note of cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter.</p> @@ -1625,7 +1586,7 @@ cheerfulness to this somewhat sombre quarter.</p> </div> <p>Quite near there is the Rue Clovis, where formerly stood the Abbey of -Sainte-Geneviève, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret +Sainte-Geneviève, whose square tower still remains and makes us regret the part that has disappeared. In this Rue Clovis may be seen, crumbling to decay and half-buried under climbing plants—lichens, ivy, sage and moss—a big side of a primitive-looking wall, a fragment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> of the @@ -1638,7 +1599,7 @@ Rue Clovis. Illustrious dead were buried there: Pascal, Racine, Boileau.</p> <p>A crime was also committed in it.</p> <p>On the 3rd of January 1858, the first day of the novena of -Sainte-Geneviève, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the +Sainte-Geneviève, whose relics repose in one of the side-chapels of the church, dreadful cries were heard: "They have just murdered Monseigneur," and soon a man of haggard looks, clad in black, with blood-red hands, was seen on the Square in the grasp of some policemen @@ -1680,7 +1641,7 @@ without resistance.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 247px;"><a name="ILL_032" id="ILL_032"></a> <img src="images/ill_032.jpg" width="247" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE IN 1866<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE LA MONTAGNE-SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE IN 1866<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> @@ -1703,7 +1664,7 @@ iron trellis."</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 251px;"><a name="ILL_033" id="ILL_033"></a> <img src="images/ill_033.jpg" width="251" height="300" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE PANTHÉON, IN BUILDING</span> +<span class="caption">THE PANTHÉON, IN BUILDING</span> </div> <p>It is one of the retreats for poetry and devotion so common in Paris, @@ -1711,16 +1672,16 @@ and yet ofttimes so unsuspected amid the city's noise; and one never forgets the impression produced when leaving the Latin Quarter, with its laughter and songs, and plunging suddenly into this deserted cloister full of dream and melancholy, though so close to the sunny, busy square -of the Panthéon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the -people and the army, an actor at the Odéon Theatre, Eric Besnard, +of the Panthéon, where, on the 27th of July 1830, to the shouts of the +people and the army, an actor at the Odéon Theatre, Eric Besnard, replaced once more the inscription: "<i>To her great men the grateful mother country</i>" on the fine temple built by Soufflot, which the -Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Geneviève.</p> +Restoration had consecrated to the worship of Sainte-Geneviève.</p> -<p>The Panthéon is certainly the one Parisian building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a><br /><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a><br /><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> which has been +<p>The Panthéon is certainly the one Parisian building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a><br /><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a><br /><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> which has been most often baptized and re-baptized. Constructed in consequence of a vow made by Louis XV. when ill at Metz, on the gardens belonging to the -original Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, the money that paid for it was +original Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, the money that paid for it was derived from a portion of the funds raised by three lotteries drawn every month in Paris.</p> @@ -1737,24 +1698,24 @@ finishing his undertaking.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 277px;"><a name="ILL_034" id="ILL_034"></a> <img src="images/ill_034.jpg" width="277" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE<br /> +<span class="caption">PROCESSION IN FRONT OF SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE<br /> <i>Meunier, fecit</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> <p>In 1791, the constituent Assembly set apart for the "Honouring of Great -Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Geneviève; and +Men" the church primitively dedicated to Sainte-Geneviève; and Mirabeau's body was conveyed thither in triumph "to the sounds of trombone and gong, whose notes, by the intensity with which they were produced, tore the bowels and harrowed the heart," says a chronicle of the time.</p> <p>The great tribune was destined to make but a short stay in the -Panthéon,—this was the name given to the secularised church—for on the -27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chénier, and after +Panthéon,—this was the name given to the secularised church—for on the +27th of November 1793, at the instigation of Joseph Chénier, and after study of the documents found in the iron safe, documents that left no doubt as to "the great treason of the Count de Mirabeau," the Convention, "considering that a man cannot be great without virtue, -decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Panthéon, and +decreed that Mirabeau's ashes should be removed from the Panthéon, and that those of Marat should be buried there." The sentence was carried out by night, and the "virtuous" Marat took the place of Mirabeau; not for long, however, since, some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a><br /><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a><br /><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> months later, Marat's body, @@ -1762,25 +1723,25 @@ for long, however, since, some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_ small graveyard belonging to Saint-Etienne-du-Mont. Voltaire and Rousseau were, in their turn, triumphantly interred. Voltaire's body, after remaining all night in the ruins of the Bastille, had been brought -to the Panthéon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in +to the Panthéon on a triumphal car, escorted by fifty girls dressed in antique style through David's care, and by the actors and actresses of -the Théâtre Français in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of +the Théâtre Français in their stage dresses. The widow and daughters of the unfortunate Calas walked behind, close to the torn flag of the -Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fête, +Bastille. In order to make this interment a never-to-be-forgotten fête, its organisers had provided for everything except for the weather. A dreadful storm descended on the heads of those composing the procession: -Mérope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the +Mérope, Lusignan, the Virgins, Brutus, and the delegates sent in the names of Politics, the Arts, and Agriculture, were wet to the skin; and, covered with mud and in wretched plight, were compelled to huddle into cabs or shelter themselves under umbrellas.</p> <p>And thus it was that, on the 12th of July 1791, Voltaire made his entry -into the Panthéon.</p> +into the Panthéon.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_035" id="ILL_035"></a> <img src="images/ill_035.jpg" width="600" height="472" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE APOTHEOSIS OF JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU<br /> -His translation to the Panthéon on the 11th of October 1794<br /> +His translation to the Panthéon on the 11th of October 1794<br /> <i>Girardet, inv. et del.</i></span> </div> @@ -1791,7 +1752,7 @@ preceding night on the basin of the Tuileries, transformed for the occasion into an "Isle of Poplars." While yet not so popular as that of Voltaire, his triumph was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> "one of sensitive souls," and "the man of nature" was interred according to the rites he had himself prescribed. -Later, Napoleon peopled the Panthéon with the shades of obscure senators +Later, Napoleon peopled the Panthéon with the shades of obscure senators and some few artists, admirals, and generals. Subsequently, the Second Republic made a definitive assignment of the edifice to the cult of great men; and there, on a sunny day, the 3rd of May 1885, Victor Hugo's @@ -1801,32 +1762,32 @@ under the Arc de Triomphe, which he had so nobly sung. Since then, Baudin, President Carnot, La Tour d'Auvergne have been buried there; and an admirable decoration, the work of our best contemporary artists, covers the vast walls of this necropolis. Puvis de Chavannes, Humbert, -Henri-Lévy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; +Henri-Lévy, Cabanel, Jean-Paul Laurens are finely represented in it; and, last of all, Edouard Detaille, surpassing himself, has, in an admirable soaring of art, created on the canvas—in Homeric proportions—a mad rush of horses and riders, the old cavaliers of the Republic and the Empire, towards the radiant image of the Motherland, with standards conquered from the enemy by their dauntless heroism.</p> -<p>Around the Panthéon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of +<p>Around the Panthéon, there used to be, and still is, a labyrinth of little streets, poor and crowded together, once inhabited by those that attended the schools, so numerous in that quarter of the Sorbonne.</p> <p>The Rue des Carmes remains to us as a perfect specimen of the past, with its houses whose shaking<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a><br /><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a><br /><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> walls support each other, its crumbling -façades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the +façades, its dilapidated staircases; and then, here and there, the relics of a vanished splendour, the entrance to two important colleges, to-day dwindled down into dens of misery, into lodgings of the poor. Narrow and uneven, the Rue des Carmes ascends toilingly between shops whose paint has been streaked by storms, faded by dust and wind; and yet it continues to be full of charm and poetry, this sorry-looking street, -crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Panthéon, and +crowned at the top by the august proportions of the Panthéon, and framing at the bottom, with its two lines of dingy houses, mean hotels, and dancing-rooms, the delicate and elegant spire of Notre-Dame aloft on the horizon of the clear sky.</p> <p>It was at the corner of this Rue des Carmes and the Rue des Sept-Voies, -not far from Sainte-Geneviève's church, that, at seven o'clock in the +not far from Sainte-Geneviève's church, that, at seven o'clock in the evening of the 9th of March 1804, George Cadoudal sprang into the cab that was to take him to the fresh hiding-place which his friends had prepared for him in the house of Caron, the royalist perfumer of the Rue @@ -1847,12 +1808,12 @@ the handle were not the English hall-mark. "I cannot say," he replied, <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_036" id="ILL_036"></a> <img src="images/ill_036.jpg" width="600" height="425" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE LUXEMBOURG, ABOUT 1790<br /> -<i>Maréchal, del.</i> (National Library)</span> +<i>Maréchal, del.</i> (National Library)</span> </div> <p>Quite near, is the Luxembourg, both palace and prison, the Luxembourg, -where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fêtes, where Gaston -d'Orléans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, +where Marie de Medici gave such magnificent fêtes, where Gaston +d'Orléans yawned so much, and where the Grande Mademoiselle sulked, sighing for the handsome Lauzun; where also the Count de Provence so cleverly prepared, with Monsieur d'Avaray, his escape from France, on the same evening that Louis XVI. and Marie-Antoinette made such bad @@ -1865,7 +1826,7 @@ later, Robespierre was brought as a prisoner, and where, "for want of room," Hally, the porter, refused to receive him; the Luxembourg where, after Thermidor, the artist David painted, from, his dungeon, the shady walk in which he could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a><br /><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a><br /><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> see his children playing at ball; the -Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fêtes; the +Luxembourg of Barras, of Bonaparte, of the Directory fêtes; the Luxembourg, too, of Nodier, of Saint-Beuve, of Murger, of Michelet, of the students, of the workers of Bohemia, of the songs of the worthy Nadaud and Mimi Pinson, near to Bullier's and the Lilac Closerie and @@ -1873,7 +1834,7 @@ also to the Observatory and the ill-omened wall "scored with bullets" where Marshal Ney fell. Everywhere, the same mingling of mirth and sorrow, of laughter and blood. The reason is that each street, each cross-road, almost each house has seen some dark procession pass by or -some victorious fête celebrated.</p> +some victorious fête celebrated.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_037" id="ILL_037"></a> <img src="images/ill_037.jpg" width="600" height="444" alt="" /> @@ -1899,7 +1860,7 @@ first story, on the wall bearing even now the red marks of the blood-dripping sabres used by the slayers, may be read the signatures of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> fair prisoners who, day after day, in terrified anxiety, waited, each evening, for the fatal order to appear before the Tribunal: -Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Joséphine de +Mesdames d'Aiguillon, Terezia Cabarrus-Tallien, Joséphine de Beauharnais. At this date, Tallien, himself suspected and followed by a band of spies, prowled from eve till morn round the sinister prison in which the woman he loved was confined. One day, on his table, 17 Rue de @@ -1920,7 +1881,7 @@ country; the mother country for him was the woman he worshipped. Mad with love and rage, rousing against Robespierre every rancour, terror, and hatred, he spent the night and the day of the 8th in preparing the dreadful and tragical sitting of the 9th of Thermidor, which was a -merciless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a><br /><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a><br /><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouché, to +merciless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a><br /><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a><br /><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> duel between the two sides. He appealed to Fouché, to Collot d'Herbois as to Durand-Maillane and Louchet, to Cambon as to Vadier, to Thuriot as to Legendre, to the few remaining Dantonists as to the eternal tremblers of the Marais; then, springing to the rostrum with @@ -1933,12 +1894,12 @@ Convention.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_038" id="ILL_038"></a> <img src="images/ill_038.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">FÊTE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, ANNO VII.<br /> +<span class="caption">FÊTE GIVEN AT THE LUXEMBOURG ON THE 20TH OF FRIMAIRE, ANNO VII.<br /> Bonaparte hands to the Directory the treaty of Campo-Formio</span> </div> -<p>Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Théroigne de -Méricourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot +<p>Opposite the Luxembourg, is the Rue de Tournon, where Théroigne de +Méricourt and Mademoiselle Lenormand lived; the Countess d'Houdetot dwelt at No. 12, the appearance of which has hardly changed since. If he were to come back and wander about these parts, Jean-Jacques Rousseau would again find almost intact the home of her he chiefly loved, quite @@ -1965,17 +1926,17 @@ over his corpse. Poison had made an end of this noble life of work, glory, and misery.</p> <p>Aloft in the same quiet quarter, Saint-Sulpice rears its two unequal -towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aërial telegraph. +towers, on which Chappe planted the great arms of his aërial telegraph. It was in the fine vestry of this imposing church, which has preserved its admirable wood-carvings, that Camille Desmoulins signed the marriage register, when, on the 29th of December 1790, he married his adored Lucile Duplessis. The marriage was a veritable romance; and all Paris crowded to the gates of Saint-Sulpice to see the procession go by. The bride and bridegroom were congratulated; and cheers were given for the -witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a><br /><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a><br /><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> Pétion, +witnesses, whose names had already become popular; Sillery,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a><br /><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a><br /><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> Pétion, Mercier, and Robespierre. Then, the wedding party ascended the Rue de -Condé to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Théâtre -François (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odéon), on the third floor. There, on +Condé to go and breakfast at Camille's home, No. 1 Rue du Théâtre +François (to-day, No. 38 Rue de l'Odéon), on the third floor. There, on the 20th of March 1794, the day of his mother's death, he was arrested, bound like a malefactor, and thence was taken to the Luxembourg hard by. On the 5th of April, Camille was executed amid the shouts of the people @@ -1983,8 +1944,8 @@ who had so flattered him. Lucile followed him to the scaffold a week later! They had sworn to love each other in life and death.... The idyll finished in blood.</p> -<p>Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Férou, the Rue -Cassette, the Rue Garancière, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue +<p>Round about Saint-Sulpice, one comes across the Rue Férou, the Rue +Cassette, the Rue Garancière, the Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the Rue Madame, with their ancient names and provincial aspect, devout and silent quarters of monastic and semi-mysterious life, and, for this reason, full of infinite charm.</p> @@ -2007,23 +1968,23 @@ says Chateaubriand in his <i>Memoirs from beyond the Grave</i>.</p> <p>Old mansions are numerous.</p> <p>In the Rue de Varenne alone, each portal awakes a remembrance of the -most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Condé, -Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tessé, Béthune-Sully, Montmorency, -Rougé, Ségur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of +most illustrious names of France's nobility: Broglie, Bourbon, Condé, +Villeroy, Castries, Rohan-Chabot, Tessé, Béthune-Sully, Montmorency, +Rougé, Ségur, Aubeterre, Narbonne-Pelet, &c., and some of the hosts of these aristocratic dwellings were certainly found disguised, dressed up as horse-dealers, drovers, peasants, workmen, in the <i>Golden Cup</i> hostelry at the corner of the Rue de Varenne, which was celebrated in the history of the Chouannerie: the heroes of <i>Tournebut</i>, my dear -friend Lenôtre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, +friend Lenôtre's interesting work, put up there, says the author, who, himself filled with enthusiasm, knows how to inspire his reader with the same. It was one of the meeting-places used by the sworn companions of George Cadoudal, who hid there several times; and there, too, the -royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendémiaire, Anno IV., their +royalist conspirators met to complete, for Vendémiaire, Anno IV., their arrangements relative to the abduction of the Convention.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 431px;"><a name="ILL_039" id="ILL_039"></a> <img src="images/ill_039.jpg" width="431" height="600" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MÉDECINE IN 1866<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE L'ECOLE DE MÉDECINE IN 1866<br /> House where Marat was assassinated<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> @@ -2034,17 +1995,17 @@ where a famous hiding-place was used. Hyde de Neuville tells us, in his picturesque<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a><br /><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a><br /><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> memoirs, that one needed only to slip behind the picture, serving as signboard to the perfumery—a picture overhanging the street—then to draw over one the shutter of the neighbouring chamber, -for all the police Fouché employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, +for all the police Fouché employed to be tricked, in spite of searching, as they frequently did, the house through and through.</p> -<p>Next, we come upon the Odéon—the old Odéon—still standing on its base, +<p>Next, we come upon the Odéon—the old Odéon—still standing on its base, in spite of the countless jests levelled at it, with its famous galleries, where, for many a long year, saunterers have gone to have a look at the last productions of contemporary literature. How often have we lingered in front of the old books or new ones, turning over the leaves, or reading between two pages yet uncut?</p> -<p>It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odéon galleries, the +<p>It was in 1873 that, under three arcades of the Odéon galleries, the most amiable of publishers, Ernest Flammarion, installed himself in partnership with Ch. Marpon; both of them indefatigable workers, benevolent and witty, they spent treasures of contrivance to get into @@ -2065,7 +2026,7 @@ strong for their feelings," he murmurs by way of excuse, and, philosophically, he smiles and passes these petty larcenies to his profit and loss account.</p> -<p>Along the Rue de l'École-de-Médecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, +<p>Along the Rue de l'École-de-Médecine, passing by the Dupuytren Museum, which was formerly the refectory of the Franciscan monastery, we reach the Boulevard Saint-Germain, the cutting of which did away with so many precious relics; among others, the abode where Marat was assassinated, @@ -2086,7 +2047,7 @@ quitting his office, coughing the while, for he had a delicate chest.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_040" id="ILL_040"></a> <img src="images/ill_040.jpg" width="400" height="204" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE GALLERY OF THE ODÉON (RUE ROTROU)</span> +<span class="caption">THE GALLERY OF THE ODÉON (RUE ROTROU)</span> </div> <p>Together with the present presbytery, they form the sole extant @@ -2104,7 +2065,7 @@ of the Palais-Royal, of the <i>Lanterne</i>, the <i>Revolutions of France and Brabant</i>, the <i>Brissot unmasked</i>; the Camille of the "<i>Vieux Cordelier</i>," that masterpiece of wit and courage,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> in which he dared to speak of clemency to Robespierre and of respect for his fellows to the -ignoble Hébert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue +ignoble Hébert! On the site of Danton's house, the tribune's statue stands to-day; we regret the house.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 329px;"><a name="ILL_041" id="ILL_041"></a> @@ -2141,17 +2102,17 @@ advertisement, "Small hands required for flowers and feathers," beside a plate pointing out the address of the newspaper, <i>Heaven</i>, on the fourth floor, door to the left!</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a><br /><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a><br /><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> -<p>The Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des -Fossés-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine +<p>The Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie is on one side; it is the ancient Rue des +Fossés-Saint-Germain, where Marat set up his press and printing-machine in a cellar. At No. 14, in the courtyard of an old mansion occupied by a -wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Théâtre-Français. +wall-paper merchant, once stood the premises of the Théâtre-Français. The large entrance door, the staircases leading to the actors' private rooms, the slanting pit of the hall, and even the friezes are still in existence. The King's Comedians played there, on April 18th, 1689, -<i>Phèdre</i> and the <i>Médecin malgré lui</i>, and performed in the same +<i>Phèdre</i> and the <i>Médecin malgré lui</i>, and performed in the same building until 1770.</p> -<p>The encyclopædists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet +<p>The encyclopædists, d'Alembert, Diderot and his friends, used to meet opposite at the Procope coffee-house, the handsome iron balcony of which is yet subsisting, from where it was so agreeable to hobnob with the balcony of the Comedy. The Procope coffee-house, celebrated in the @@ -2166,13 +2127,13 @@ Paris, and also remains as it was then.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 340px;"><a name="ILL_043" id="ILL_043"></a> <img src="images/ill_043.jpg" width="340" height="500" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE RUE VISCONTI<br /> -<i>Water-colour by F. Léon</i></span> +<i>Water-colour by F. Léon</i></span> </div> -<p>Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Château, on the 23rd of December +<p>Near the spot, at No. 1 Rue Bourbon-le-Château, on the 23rd of December 1850, two poor women were assassinated. One of them, Mademoiselle Ribault, a designer on the staff of the <i>Petit Courrier des Dames</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> -edited by Monsieur Thiéry, had the strength to write on a screen with a +edited by Monsieur Thiéry, had the strength to write on a screen with a finger dipped in her own blood: "The assassin is the clerk of M. Thi...." This clerk, Laforcade, was arrested the next day.</p> @@ -2182,18 +2143,18 @@ met with on the left bank of the river!</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 286px;"><a name="ILL_044" id="ILL_044"></a> <img src="images/ill_044.jpg" width="286" height="400" alt="" /> <span class="caption">ALFRED DE MUSSET AT 23 YEARS OF AGE<br /> -<i>Drawn by Lépaulle</i> (Pigoreau Collection)</span> +<i>Drawn by Lépaulle</i> (Pigoreau Collection)</span> </div> <p>Not all have disappeared for ever of those vast melancholy gardens, those hoary mansions buried in streets where the grass grows, and whose -noble but gloomy façades would never cause one to suspect the riches -they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hôtel des Invalides. +noble but gloomy façades would never cause one to suspect the riches +they contain. Many are in the vicinity of the Hôtel des Invalides. Others are in the Rue Vanneau, the Rue Bellechasse, the Rue de Varenne, the Rue Saint-Guillaume, the Rue Bonaparte; some also in the Rue Visconti, which dark narrow lane possesses illustrious souvenirs. The -famous Champmeslé, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes -mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pré-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine +famous Champmeslé, Clairon, and Adrienne Lecouvreur lived in the Ranes +mansion, built on the site of the Petit-Pré-aux-Clercs, and J. Racine died there in 1697. This house, which bears the number 21, is to-day a girls' boarding-school! And last of all, at No. 17 the great Balzac established the printing-press that ruined him, and that later became @@ -2210,7 +2171,7 @@ and whose corpse, wrapped in a dressing-gown and held up by straps, like a traveller asleep, started by night in a travelling-coach, on the 30th of May 1778, from the courtyard of Monsieur de Villette's mansion, with its entrance still in the Rue de Beaune, to be buried outside Paris at -the Abbey of Scellières in Champagne.</p> +the Abbey of Scellières in Champagne.</p> <p>The flat in which Voltaire passed away has not been altered, and its decoration has remained almost intact, with its wall mirrors, its @@ -2219,7 +2180,7 @@ walls.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_045" id="ILL_045"></a> <img src="images/ill_045.jpg" width="600" height="398" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE FAÇADE OF THE INSTITUTE<br /> +<span class="caption">THE FAÇADE OF THE INSTITUTE<br /> <i>From an original drawing of the Revolutionary period</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> @@ -2245,7 +2206,7 @@ presence—bars of music, verses, drawings, writings of varied nature. I confess I should not dare to reproduce, even expurgated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a><br /><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a><br /><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a><br /><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a><br /><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> the inscriptions which confinement and absence from Paris streets and acquaintance have suggested to many an admirable composer of to-day. -Saint-Saëns would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be +Saint-Saëns would certainly blush, Bizet's great shade would be troubled, our great and witty Massenet would surely refuse to accept the paternity of his vigorous apostrophes, and—I will be discreet; never mind—it's something very enjoyable, very funny, and quite in the @@ -2255,15 +2216,15 @@ character of the language.</p> of which, if we are to believe his delightful Memoirs, Alexandre Dumas contributed so valiantly to the triumph of the 1830 Revolution) nestles a small, provincial-looking Square; Madame Permon, mother of the future -Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantès, lived there until the Revolution. In +Madame Junot, Duchess of Abrantès, lived there until the Revolution. In a small garret of the same house, at the left corner, on the third -floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the École +floor, Bonaparte used to lodge during his rare holidays from the École Militaire. The fine, carved wainscotings are still round the walls of the drawing-room on the ground floor, overlooking the Seine, which the -Cæsar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the +Cæsar that-was-to-be used to enter and there speak of his hopes, and the marble chimney-piece is in its old place; at it he would come and dry his big patched boots that "smoked again," the talkative Madame -d'Abrantès tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant +d'Abrantès tells us. So, while dreaming, the little sub-lieutenant might, from the window, see opposite him the palace whence, for a number of years, he was to conqueringly dispose of the destinies of the dazzled world.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> @@ -2284,20 +2245,20 @@ round this odd little world seen from the Pont des Arts!</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_046" id="ILL_046"></a> <img src="images/ill_046.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="" /> <span class="caption">VIEW FROM THE LOUVRE QUAY<br /> -<i>Noël, pinxit</i></span> +<i>Noël, pinxit</i></span> </div> <p>On the one bank, the Louvre, the green foliage of the Tuileries, and the -Champs-Elysées, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of +Champs-Elysées, with the minarets of the Trocadero and the heights of Chaillot on the horizon; on the other, all old Paris, a series of monuments haloed with souvenirs—the Palais de Justice, the Conciergerie, the Sainte-Chapelle, Notre-Dame; the churches of Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois, Saint-Gervais, Saint-Paul; the Pointe de la -Cité.</p> +Cité.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_047" id="ILL_047"></a> <img src="images/ill_047.jpg" width="600" height="474" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITÉ<br /> +<span class="caption">PARIS FROM THE POINTE DE LA CITÉ<br /> <i>Photographed by Richebourg</i></span> </div> @@ -2319,7 +2280,7 @@ Rue Mazarine—we discover in the Rue Contrescarpe-Dauphine—at present the Rue Mazet—the remains of the old White Horse Inn. The stables, with their ancient mangers and quaint eaves, still exist. They date back to Louis XIV. In that time, every week the huge inn-yard was filled with -travellers going to Orléans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in +travellers going to Orléans and Blois; and the unwieldy coach started in a cloud of dust, amidst crackings of whip, trumpetings, adieus, and shakings of handkerchiefs; horses pranced, women wept, dogs barked, postilions swore. To-day the animation has disappeared, but the scene @@ -2330,12 +2291,12 @@ Manon<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class= <p>The neighbouring house was once the Magny restaurant, at which those celebrated dinners were given that Goncourt speaks of so often in his Memoirs, dinners shared by Renan, Sainte-Beuve, Georges Sand, Flaubert, -Théophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others.</p> +Théophile Gautier, Gavarni, and many others.</p> -<p>Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine—where Molière and his +<p>Not far away, and connecting the Rue Mazarine—where Molière and his company played—with the Rue de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> Seine, let us go through the Passage du Pont-Neuf, occupying the site of the ancient entrance to the theatre, -and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel <i>Thérèse Raquin</i>.</p> +and being the scene of Zola's terrible novel <i>Thérèse Raquin</i>.</p> <p>It is a typical nook—sordid, dingy, and malodorous, but strangely attractive, with its fried-potato sellers and Italian modellers. The @@ -2350,14 +2311,14 @@ Institute, and it is impossible to walk along the interminable black-looking wall enclosing it, on the side of the Rue Mazarine, without thinking of the painful paragraph in the preface of the <i>Fils Naturel</i>, wherein the younger Dumas, speaking of his childhood, recalls -the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odéon, of +the souvenir of the return from the first performance, at the Odéon, of <i>Charles VI. chez ses grands vassaux</i>, on the 20th of October 1831.</p> <p>The evening had been a stormy one, and the success of the play was doubtful. Consequently, a continuation of their poverty was to be expected. Alexandre Dumas had heavy burdens to support—his mother, a household, a child. He had to live himself and to keep his family on the -meagre salary his situation under the Duke<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a><br /><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a><br /><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> d'Orléans procured him. It +meagre salary his situation under the Duke<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a><br /><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a><br /><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> d'Orléans procured him. It was not of his talents but of his star that he doubted; and the younger Dumas always remembered his father's broad shadow cast by the moon on the dark, gloomy wall of the Institute, and himself timidly guessing at @@ -2366,16 +2327,16 @@ legs, to follow and keep up with the studies of the good-natured giant.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 349px;"><a name="ILL_048" id="ILL_048"></a> <img src="images/ill_048.jpg" width="349" height="500" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DES PRÊTRES-SAINT-SÉVERIN IN 1866<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DES PRÊTRES-SAINT-SÉVERIN IN 1866<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> -<p>It was in the Rue Guénégaud, in the Hôtel Britannique, that Madame +<p>It was in the Rue Guénégaud, in the Hôtel Britannique, that Madame Roland took up her quarters in 1791. There, joyous and confident in the future, she opened her political <i>salon</i>. What a pleasure for the little Manon to show to all the Pont-Neuf neighbourhood, where her childhood had been spent, that she had become a lady and received people of mark. -Brissot, Buzot, Pétion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to +Brissot, Buzot, Pétion, Robespierre, Danton himself, were pleased to come, between two sittings, and talk at this amiable woman's house; and I fancy what attracted them was far more the pretty Parisian's qualities than the virtues of the austere husband, who must have been a great @@ -2390,7 +2351,7 @@ some ancient abodes; but it has lost the singular house called the <i>Red Castle</i>, or more prosaically, "the Guillotine."</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> <p>In what was, during the seventeenth century, a sumptuous dwelling—the -mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrées—behind the huge, tall front +mansion, 'tis said, of Gabrielle d'Estrées—behind the huge, tall front steps at the back of the courtyard, was the dingy, smoky habitation, stinking of wine, dirt, debauch, and vice.</p> @@ -2409,7 +2370,7 @@ building and sanitary improvements have done away with the "Red Castle."</p> <i>Etching by Martial</i></span> </div> -<p>The Rue Saint-Séverin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the +<p>The Rue Saint-Séverin is a picturesque medley of old houses round the ancient Gothic church—"that flora of stone"—one of the most curious perhaps in Paris; one of those that best preserve the traces of a past of art, devotion, and prayer.</p> @@ -2417,8 +2378,8 @@ of art, devotion, and prayer.</p> <p>The sublime artists who, in several centuries, knew how to create the forest of fine carvings with which the apse is adorned, have, alas! left but sorry successors. By the side of old painted glass windows, brought -from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, other cold, modern stained -windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Séverin's the religious, +from the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, other cold, modern stained +windows of loud colour have taken from Saint-Séverin's the religious, poetical mysteriousness, the inviting half-obscurity that appeal to the soul of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a><br /><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a><br /><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> believer; and their crude light renders only too visible the marks of successive mutilations inflicted on this fine church. In @@ -2434,12 +2395,12 @@ floats in the air at the corners of the various cross-roads; bars and petty restaurants are thronged with customers. Part of the money begged or stolen in Paris is spent there.</p> -<p>Saint-Médard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint +<p>Saint-Médard's church is quite close, with its small, dusty, quaint Square, and its round tower at the end of the Rue Monge and the corner of the Rue Mouffetard. It is a gloomy, rat-gnawed, poverty-stricken church, looking as if worn-out with age; and is blocked in by old houses covered with gaudy-coloured advertisements. It has left, far behind in -the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Pâris in it performed its +the past, the days when the tomb of the Deacon Pâris in it performed its miracles, when the townsfolk and courtfolk crowded in the small graveyard, a door of which still exists, the one perhaps whereon was written the famous couplet:—</p> @@ -2463,8 +2424,8 @@ middle of the road; carriage traffic is rare. Housewives gossip on their doorsteps, people live together—and in the street. The Passage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a><br /><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a><br /><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> des Patriarches, which opens at No. 99, was famous in days of yore. The Calvinists, who used to preach there, had bloody quarrels with the -Catholics of Saint-Médard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, -melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-à-brac dealers, old-iron sellers, +Catholics of Saint-Médard's. To-day, it is nothing but a dank, dirty, +melancholy alley, inhabited by bric-à -brac dealers, old-iron sellers, and petty hucksters; and smells of rags, old lead, and cauliflower!</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"><a name="ILL_051" id="ILL_051"></a> @@ -2507,8 +2468,8 @@ At the corner of the Colbert Mansion<br /> <i>Etching by Martial</i></span> </div> -<p>Not far from this spot, the Rue Maître-Albert—which up to 1844 was -called the Rue Perdue—owes its present name to the Dominican Maître +<p>Not far from this spot, the Rue Maître-Albert—which up to 1844 was +called the Rue Perdue—owes its present name to the Dominican Maître Albert who, in the thirteenth century, taught in the open air in Maubert Square. It contains curious houses, to-day dens for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a><br /><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a><br /><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a><br /><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a><br /><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> tramps, who spend the night in them. In 1819, an old negro of miserable appearance @@ -2534,14 +2495,14 @@ this gloomy Rue Perdue, and died there on the 7th of February 1820.</p> <p>The two churches nearest the spot are those of Saint-Nicolas-du-Chardonneret and Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. Connected with the former is a dismal little seminary, in which, under the guidance of -the Abbé Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through +the Abbé Dupanloup, the eminent philosopher Ernest Renan went through part of his theological studies. Every one should read in the <i>Souvenirs of my Childhood and Youth</i> the admirable pages this marvellous writer has devoted to his stay in this studious home. "The parish, which derived its name from the field of thistles well known of the students at the Paris University in the Middle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> Ages, was then the centre of a rich quarter inhabited chiefly by the legal profession. The -boarding-school <i>régime</i> weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a +boarding-school <i>régime</i> weighed heavily upon me. My best friend, a young man from Coutances, I think, like myself, full of enthusiasm, and of excellent heart, held himself aloof, refused to reconcile himself, and died. The Savoy students showed themselves still less @@ -2570,7 +2531,7 @@ memory!</p> <p>The church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is set apart for the Greek ritual. Enclosed on its sides and rear by the ancient buildings of the -Hôtel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a +Hôtel-Dieu, this melancholy-looking chapel is falling to ruin; a stopped-up well with meagre weeds growing from its border-stones seems to guard the door, which opens on a dirty, rubbish-strewn courtyard where a few half-starved fowls peck their scanty meal. It is a nook of @@ -2616,7 +2577,7 @@ railings his gluttonous trunk in search of rolls.</p> <p>The bear-pit has not changed; and the crowd of idlers continue to tempt the eternal "Martin" to climb up the same tree. Still to the noisy children the delightful labyrinth offers its capricious meandering; and -the cedar of Lebanon (<i>Cedrus Libani</i>) [Linnæus], which tradition tells +the cedar of Lebanon (<i>Cedrus Libani</i>) [Linnæus], which tradition tells us Monsieur Jussieu brought back in his hat, has not ceased to wave its ample branches over dreamers, loungers, workers, or grisette—the grisette that comes and sits beneath its venerable shade to read the @@ -2645,7 +2606,7 @@ the dust of the past! To-day, alas! these rooms, flowering with sculpture, are closed and forsaken; a part of their wainscoting has disappeared.... Where have decorations so pleasing gone?... Why these everlasting, culpable mutilations, which I know are a grief to Monsieur -Périer, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of +Périer, the eminent Director of the Museum? The collections of butterflies are now transferred to the vast and sumptuous central hall of the new pavilion devoted to natural history. I liked them better in the charming rooms which once contained them and suited them so well!</p> @@ -2696,32 +2657,32 @@ round it: ivy, birthwort honeysuckle, lianes of all kinds caparisoned it with verdure. They are carpets, cascades of glossy green, shining together: a nosegay of leaves in a garden.</p> -<p>Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpêtrière with its walls of evil -memory, the Salpêtrière of the September massacres, the Salpêtrière +<p>Behind the Jardin des Plantes is Salpêtrière with its walls of evil +memory, the Salpêtrière of the September massacres, the Salpêtrière whence Madame de Lamotte so easily escaped after her condemnation; with its broad gardens and its ugly covered-yards surrounded by railings, where, as De Goncourt said, "Women madder than their fellows" are confined. The dome, visible from everywhere, commands, like a lighthouse -of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bièvre, the poor, sacrificed -river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bièvre, streaked with +of misery, all this quarter infected by the Bièvre, the poor, sacrificed +river, which is now in part walled over; the oily Bièvre, streaked with tannery acids, reddened by skins of sheep recently flayed that steep in -it; the Bièvre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so +it; the Bièvre which flows miserably and sordidly, but yet so picturesquely, amidst starch factories, fellmongers' stores and other works, after traversing the tiny gardens of Gentilly and creating the -illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-à-Mulard.</p> +illusion of a landscape in the quarter of the Fontaine-à -Mulard.</p> <p>Gone is the time when this ill-starred river washed the banks of smiling meadows and reflected the willows in its clear waters. Tamed, domesticated, adapted to tasks of every sort, unceasingly used by tanners, curriers, tawers, dyers, it flows dirty and putrid! To follow -it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Prés must be ascended, and +it in its windings, the Rue du Moulin-des-Prés must be ascended, and entrance made into the Rue de Tolbiac.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> There, through a gate, it enters a dark, dismal passage, whence it will issue only to glide in a kind of sinister-looking canal between black, repulsive manufactories. Here and there, along the scanty banks, a few washerwomen have fixed their tubs on a level with the water, and sing as they dolly their linen; elsewhere, wretched urchins endeavour to catch a stray fish that might -have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bièvre disappears +have lost its way in the mephitic stream. Then the Bièvre disappears once again and this time underground, coming to view afresh in the Rue des Gobelins. At this spot, some rare traces of a glorious past are discovered. The ancient houses have many of them remained. But how often @@ -2730,17 +2691,17 @@ river, have taken possession of the houses bordering it.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 301px;"><a name="ILL_059" id="ILL_059"></a> <img src="images/ill_059.jpg" width="301" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE BIÈVRE<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE BIÈVRE<br /> <i>Drawn by Heidbrendk</i></span> </div> <p>Offices, warehouses, leather stores have invaded the noble mansions of -the sixteenth century, and the Bièvre winds, as if ashamed, through poor +the sixteenth century, and the Bièvre winds, as if ashamed, through poor gardens, like it, fallen from their antique splendour.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 292px;"><a name="ILL_060" id="ILL_060"></a> <img src="images/ill_060.jpg" width="292" height="500" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE TANNERIES<br /> +<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE TANNERIES<br /> <i>Etching by Martial</i></span> </div> @@ -2752,7 +2713,7 @@ heavy wheels, or washes ghastly offal, amidst a smell as of barege. Finally, it runs to earth once more beneath the Hospital Boulevard, within evil-smelling, dark holes.</p> -<p>But before the last fall, the Bièvre passes through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a><br /><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a><br /><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> an astonishingly +<p>But before the last fall, the Bièvre passes through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a><br /><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a><br /><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> an astonishingly strange lane, one of the oddest in this odd quarter: the Ruelle des Gobelins. It flows as a stream of red, green, and yellow tints, between patched-up, mouldy, tumble-down houses, in an odour of ammonia. And yet, @@ -2779,12 +2740,12 @@ clearings of other streets.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 396px;"><a name="ILL_061" id="ILL_061"></a> <img src="images/ill_061.jpg" width="396" height="500" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE ABOUT 1900—THE VALENCE MILL-RACE<br /> +<span class="caption">THE BIÈVRE ABOUT 1900—THE VALENCE MILL-RACE<br /> <i>Schaan, pinxit</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> <p>Once, these spacious grounds were one stretch of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> flower gardens and -market gardens watered by the Bièvre.</p> +market gardens watered by the Bièvre.</p> <p>In a most interesting book, somewhat forgotten now, Alfred Delvau tells us much of the former history, under Louis-Philippe, of the @@ -2792,7 +2753,7 @@ Saint-Marceau faubourg, the Butte-aux-Cailles, the Rue Croulebarde, and also the Rue du Champ-de-l'Alouette, in which last street the "Shepherdess of Ivry" was murdered, the crime by its bizarre character producing a deep impression in the Capital in 1827. It was a -public-house waiter, Honoré Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimée Millot +public-house waiter, Honoré Ulbach, who had stabbed a girl, Aimée Millot by name; she, as a keeper of goats, was popular at Ivry. Every day, she was to be seen, with a large straw hat on her head and a book in her hand, tending her mistress's goats. The "Shepherdess of Ivry" she was @@ -2807,9 +2768,9 @@ recently arrived at the King's Garden was neglected for the Ivry drama.</p> <p>On the 27th of July, Ulbach, who seems to have been half-mad, was condemned to death; and, at four o'clock in the evening on the 10th of -September, he was executed on the Grève Square.</p> +September, he was executed on the Grève Square.</p> -<p>A Municipal Crèche, in the Rue des Gobelins,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a><br /><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a><br /><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> occupies, at No. 3, a +<p>A Municipal Crèche, in the Rue des Gobelins,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a><br /><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a><br /><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> occupies, at No. 3, a fine Louis XIII. mansion, once inhabited by the Marquis of Saint-Mesme, a lieutenant-general and the husband of Elizabeth Gobelin, close to a handsome lordly-looking building which in the quarter bears the name of @@ -2835,14 +2796,14 @@ Court. He excelled in combining business and pleasure. An illustrious marriage seemed to him essential to people's forgetting his low origin and the rapid rise of his fortunes. He married the "fair Limeuil," one of the most seductive beauties of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> Queen's flying squadron—"All of -them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantôme. This +them capable of setting the whole world on fire," said Brantôme. This attractive person had been successively courted by the most noble lords -of the Court before effecting the conquest of Condé, by whom she had a +of the Court before effecting the conquest of Condé, by whom she had a child. At Dijon, during one of the Queen's receptions, Mademoiselle de Limeuil was taken ill and was delivered of a boy. "It is inexplicable," -writes Mézeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so +writes Mézeray, "that such a prudent woman should have so miscalculated." There was a scandal; the Queen Mother was indignant; the -fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Condé who was still amorous, succeeded +fair Isabella was imprisoned; but Condé who was still amorous, succeeded in effecting her escape. The Protestants, however, were on the watch, and induced their leader to give up his too compromising mistress. Then it was that Scipio Sardini came forward, the richest man of the period, @@ -2850,7 +2811,7 @@ the King's banker, as also the nobles' and clergy's. He managed to get himself accepted; the marriage took place; and he settled in this pretty mansion that we still admire, and that is mentioned by Sauval as one of the most beautiful in Paris, amidst vineyards, orchards, and fields -bordering on the Bièvre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of +bordering on the Bièvre. There he lived, surrounded by luxury, works of art, books and flowers, and died there about 1609. As early as 1636, the mansion was converted into a hospital, which in 1742 was once more transformed, this time into a bakery. To-day, it is the Bakery of the @@ -2861,9 +2822,9 @@ bank of the river, respectfully pause on the Stockade Bridge, close to the small monument<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a><br /><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a><br /><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> erected to the famous sculptor Barye by his admirers,—to the great Barye who, misunderstood and mocked, sold up by his creditors, often came in the evening, after leaving his modest -studio on the Célestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this +studio on the Célestins Quay, to forget his sufferings and muse in this same place before the splendid panorama of Paris crowned by the grand -silhouette of the Panthéon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views.</p> +silhouette of the Panthéon. Here, too, is one of the City's best views.</p> <hr class="tb" /> @@ -2921,7 +2882,7 @@ from the old to modern Paris.</p> <div class="figright" style="width: 379px;"><a name="ILL_064" id="ILL_064"></a> <img src="images/ill_064.jpg" width="379" height="400" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE LESDIGUIÈRES MANSION</span> +<span class="caption">THE LESDIGUIÈRES MANSION</span> </div> <p>Notwithstanding its warlike name, the Arsenal quarter is one of the most @@ -2936,12 +2897,12 @@ cod-liver oil and woollen socks to poor, suffering children; the Rue des Lions-Saint-Paul;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> the Rue Beautreillis, where Victorien Sardou was born; near there the great Balzac dwelt. "I was then living," he says in his admirable <i>Facino Cane</i>, "in a small street you probably don't know, -the Rue de Lesdiguières. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite +the Rue de Lesdiguières. It commences at the Rue Saint-Antoine, opposite a fountain near the Place de la Bastille, and issues in the Rue de la Cerisaie. Love of knowledge had driven me into a garret, where I worked during the night, and spent the day in a neighbouring library, that of <i>Monsieur</i>. When it was fine, I took rare walks on the Bourdon -Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguières still exists in part; on the +Boulevard." This modest Rue de Lesdiguières still exists in part; on the site occupied by Nos. 8 and 10, could be seen, a few years ago, one of the containing walls of the Bastille; narrow houses have been stuck against it; and, at No. 10, it is the very wall of the old Parisian @@ -2974,16 +2935,16 @@ in addition...!</p> <p>Let us add that the curators—Henri Martin, so learned and obliging, Funck-Brentano, the exquisite historian of the Bastille, the picturesque -relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugène Muller are not only +relater of all its dramas. Sheffer and Eugène Muller are not only scholars needing no praise but most courteous and genial men—and you will quite understand why the Arsenal is one of the few corners in Paris where it is delightful to go and work or to saunter about. Indeed, it is a tradition of the house. Nodier, good old Nodier, who was one of Monsieur de Bornier's predecessors and a predecessor also of J. M. de Heredia, the master who has so recently gone from us, Nodier, the -admirable author of the <i>Trophées</i>, had succeeded in making the Arsenal +admirable author of the <i>Trophées</i>, had succeeded in making the Arsenal the centre of literary and artistic Paris. Hugo, Lamartine, de Musset, -Balzac, Méry, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulié used to meet there; and fine +Balzac, Méry, de Vigny, and Fr. Soulié used to meet there; and fine verses were said while regarding the sun glow with red flame behind the towers of Notre Dame.</p> @@ -2995,22 +2956,22 @@ towers of Notre Dame.</p> <p>Of the Bastille nothing remains except a few stones which formed the substructure of one of the old towers; and these have been carefully -removed to the Célestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible +removed to the Célestins Quay, along the Seine, where they are visible to-day. In vain, therefore, would any one now seek for a vestige of the sombre fortress over which so many legends hovered. Latude's great shade itself would hardly locate the spot; and yet how full Paris history is of this traditional Bastille, which the people, amazed with their easy victory, could not tire of visiting after the 15th of July 1789. Such -was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soulès, the governor +was their curiosity and such their eagerness that Soulès, the governor appointed by the Parisian municipality, was compelled to stop the visits, on the curious ground "that such damage had already been done to the fortress by visitors that more than 200,000 livres would be required -to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Paré +to repair it." Repair the Bastille! The souvenir manuscripts of Paré tell us the fury excited by this strange pretension in Danton, sergeant of a section of the National Guard, who, with his company, was turned back by the order.</p> -<p>Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soulès, +<p>Danton had himself admitted into the presence of the unfortunate Soulès, seized him by the collar and dragged him to the Town Hall; the prohibition was removed; and Citizen Palloy was thenceforth allowed to exploit the celebrated State prison. The stones were "hewn and cut into @@ -3038,7 +2999,7 @@ had constructed there, in 1811, by Alavoine, a strange sort of fountain of bizarre appearance: it was a colossal elephant, twenty-four metres high, which spouted water from its trunk. Built temporarily in plaster and mud, the elephant quickly crumbled away under the action of weather -and rain; and soon became a lamentable débris surrounded with disjointed +and rain; and soon became a lamentable débris surrounded with disjointed planks. The urchins of the district made it the scene of Homeric struggles; but the real familiars were the rats that had made their home inside the structure, so that, when the demolition began, regular @@ -3054,12 +3015,12 @@ the victims of 1830 that are interred within the crypt of the monument.</p> <i>From a lithograph by Rouargue</i></span> </div> -<p>The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a><br /><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a><br /><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> mansions: the Cossé -mansion, where Quélus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by +<p>The Rue Saint-Antoine contains certain handsome<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a><br /><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a><br /><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> mansions: the Cossé +mansion, where Quélus died; the Mayenne and Ormesson mansion, built by du Cerceau on the remains of the Saint-Paul mansion and Germain Pilon's studio; the Sully mansion, whose noble front was not long ago mutilated. Hard by, at the corner of the Rue du Figuier and the picturesque Rue de -l'Hôtel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, +l'Hôtel de Ville, which latter used to be the Rue de la Mortellerie, stands what is left of the Sens mansion, the only specimen, together with the Cluny Museum, of what private architecture was in the fifteenth century. After being inhabited by Princes of the Church, Bishops, @@ -3070,7 +3031,7 @@ was attributed to Lesurques, the unfortunate Lesurques popularised by the well-known drama performed at the Ambigu, which caused so many tears to flow.</p> -<p>In more recent times, the Hôtel de Sens derogated further still. It +<p>In more recent times, the Hôtel de Sens derogated further still. It became a manufactory of sweets!</p> <p>At No. 5 of the Rue du Figuier, we meet with a draw-well, the top of @@ -3079,7 +3040,7 @@ the admirable Rabelais, who died quite near, in the Rue des Jardins. At No. 15, opened the sixteenth-century door through which the actors of the illustrious theatre established on the ancient site of the Jeu de Paume de la Croix-Noire, proceeded to their private stage-room. It was -before this door that Molière was arrested and taken to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> Châtelet, +before this door that Molière was arrested and taken to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> Châtelet, because he owed "142 livres to Antoine Fausseur, master-chandler, his purveyor of light."</p> @@ -3090,7 +3051,7 @@ barricade, on the 3rd of December 1851. At No. 303, in the reign of Napoleon I., stood Dr. Dubuisson's private hospital, where General Malet was confined. There he hatched the prodigious plot the disconcerting history of which we intend shortly to relate. Farther on, near the Rue -de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Réveillon's wall-paper stores, +de Montreuil, we pass by the remains of Réveillon's wall-paper stores, pillaged on the 17th of April 1789; it was one of the preludes of the Revolution.</p> @@ -3100,14 +3061,14 @@ Only those were admitted who could pay and pay well. The irrefutable memoirs of Monsieur de Saint-Aulaine reveal to us a Belhomme familiar, cynical, exacting his fees and thouing Duchesses short of money who haggled with him on the question of their life. The most amiable of -historians, my excellent friend G. Lenôtre, whom it is always necessary +historians, my excellent friend G. Lenôtre, whom it is always necessary to quote when facts of the Revolutionary epoch are in question, has reconstituted the terrible and surprising story of the Belhomme institution where they laughed, danced, or even flirted under the dread eye of Fouquier-Tinville; and has related, with his habitual -documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> Orléans, widow of -Louis-Philippe Egalité, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at -Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orléans family +documentation, the bizarre liaison of the Duchess of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> Orléans, widow of +Louis-Philippe Egalité, with Rouzet, the Conventional, buried later at +Dreux under the name of the "Count de Folmon" in the Orléans family vault.</p> <p>Pursuing our way and passing by the Church of Sainte Marguerite, in @@ -3116,8 +3077,8 @@ of the Throne (the Throne overthrown, people said in 1793). The scaffold, which had temporarily quitted the Revolution Square, was put up here during the most terrible period of the Terror, and the "great batches" were executed upon it. In six weeks, 1300 victims perished, -among them, André Chénier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of -Montmorency, Cécile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet +among them, André Chénier, the Baron de Trenck, the Abbess of +Montmorency, Cécile Renaud, Madame de Sainte-Amaranthe, the poet Roucher, and many others. The bodies of these unfortunate people, stripped of their clothing, were loaded each evening on covered waggons, with their severed heads between their legs; and the horrible vehicle, @@ -3152,7 +3113,7 @@ contrast to the poor, low houses that huddle round it. Fowls peck at the foot of the fifteenth-century turrets, which enclose a handsome staircase; and patched linen dries on iron wire stretched between the caryatide windows of the seventeenth century, replacing those behind -which once mused the Duke d'Orléans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in +which once mused the Duke d'Orléans and the Duke de Berri, as also, in 1409, Jean de Montaigu, beheaded for sorcery! who were formerly illustrious guests in this elegant dwelling.</p> @@ -3160,15 +3121,15 @@ illustrious guests in this elegant dwelling.</p> Bastille. It is another rare nook of our old City, which, through the centuries, has preserved its ancient character very nearly intact. The houses there, in Louis XIII. style, have not changed. The scenery has -remained the same. The <i>Précieuses</i> could take their favourite walks +remained the same. The <i>Précieuses</i> could take their favourite walks there; and those punctilious in honour might draw their sword, as in the time of Richelieu and the Edict-malcontents; only the public<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a><br /><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a><br /><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> of spectators would be quite different. The fine ladies of the country hight Tender, the Cydalises and Aramynthas, the lords once living in those noble dwellings, they who, on the 16th of March 1612, were present -at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Médici, in honour +at the tournament given by the Queen Regent, Marie de Médici, in honour of the peace concluded with Spain, or they who proceeded in grand -coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sévigné's, are +coaches to the fair Marion de Lorme's or to Madame de Sévigné's, are to-day replaced by petty annuitants, modest shopkeepers retired from business and pensioned-off officers. Humble charwomen work at their tasks in the spots where Mazarin's nieces paused in their sedan-chairs; @@ -3187,14 +3148,14 @@ in some Jewish families.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_068" id="ILL_068"></a> <img src="images/ill_068.jpg" width="600" height="281" alt="" /> <span class="caption">THE PLACE ROYALE ABOUT 1651 (NOW THE VOSGES SQUARE)<br /> -<i>Israël, del.</i></span> +<i>Israël, del.</i></span> </div> <p>The old-time animation, however, is an exception. The Vosges Square, once the Place Royale, where Richelieu lived and Fronsac, Chabannes, Marshal de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> Chaulnes, Rohan-Chabot, Rotrou, Dangeau, Canillac, the -Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Châtelet, where Madame de Sévigné -was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Théophile Gautier +Prince de Talmont and Mademoiselle du Châtelet, where Madame de Sévigné +was born, where the tragic actress Rachel dwelt, and Théophile Gautier and Victor Hugo, is to-day completely neglected; and this delightful Paris nook, where so much wit was spent, such fine ladies rivalled in grace and elegance and so many exquisites drew their swords, is now @@ -3205,7 +3166,7 @@ beneath the debonair shadow of Louis XIII.'s statue, with its philosophic frame of a Punch-and-Judy show and a chair-woman's stall.</p> <p>In the ancient Rue Culture-Sainte-Catherine (at present called the Rue -de Sévigné) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the +de Sévigné) on the site now occupied by No. 11, formerly stood the Marais theatre, built with money provided by Beaumarchais. In 1792, the <i>Guilty Mother</i> was performed there, for the benefit, said the play-bill, "of the first soldier who shall send citizen Beaumarchais an @@ -3217,20 +3178,20 @@ establishment, is the old wall of the Force Prison, where, on a post at the corner of the Rue des Balais, Madame de Lamballe was executed, where also Madame de Tallien was transferred, and Princess de Tarente was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a><br /><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a><br /><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> confined, the latter, the grandmother of the kind, courteous and learned -Duke de la Trémoïlle, who had only to dip into his incomparable family +Duke de la Trémoïlle, who had only to dip into his incomparable family archives to give us the most precious documents of French history, and to whom we are indebted for those picturesque and exciting "Souvenirs of Madame de Tarente," one of the most valuable narrations by an eye-witness of the Revolutionary period.</p> -<p>The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sévigné's "dear Carnavalette," is +<p>The Carnavalet mansion, Madame de Sévigné's "dear Carnavalette," is close by, as also the ancient Le Peletier-Saint-Fargeau mansion, to-day the City of Paris Library. It is a fine, large building of noble appearance, which contains wonderful books, maps, plans and manuscripts. The written history of Paris is there; and all workers know the pretty, sculpture-ornamented room of Monsieur le Vayer, the erudite, obliging -Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poète, Beaurepaire, Jacob, -Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Pètre and Stirling in the +Curator of these fine collections. Messieurs Poète, Beaurepaire, Jacob, +Jarach and Wilhem, in the Library; Messieurs Pètre and Stirling in the History room are the wise and welcoming hosts of this admirable Parisian Library.</p> @@ -3239,7 +3200,7 @@ which, alas! has been respected. All are given over to business and manufacturing. The Lamoignon mansion is occupied by glass-polishers and garden-seatmakers; the Albret mansion by a bronze lamp-dealer; those of Tallard, Maulevrier, Sauvigny, Brevannes, Epernon, &c., are still -standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyères offers us +standing, but in what a state! The Rue des Nonnains-d'Hyères offers us its curious bass-relief, in painted stone, representing a knife-grinder<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> in eighteenth-century costume. In 1748, a Madame de Pannelier kept a "wit-office" in this same street; Lalande, Sautereau, Guichard, Leclerc @@ -3247,7 +3208,7 @@ de Merry used to attend meetings there. They were held on Wednesdays, and were preceded by an excellent dinner. The tradition has happily been preserved in Paris.</p> -<p>In the Rue François-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with +<p>In the Rue François-Miron, one sees a spacious, handsome mansion with circular pediment, escutcheons and garlands. It is the Beauvais mansion, built by Le Pautre in 1658.</p> @@ -3257,12 +3218,12 @@ the entrance gate and that, from the top of the central pavilion balcony, Queen Anne of Austria, in company with the Queen of England, Cardinal Mazarin, Marshal de Turenne and other illustrious nobles, had watched her son Louis XIV. and her daughter-in-law, the new Queen -Marie-Thérèse of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's +Marie-Thérèse of Austria, go by as they made, through Saint-Antoine's Gate, their solemn entry into Paris on the 26th of August 1660!<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> <p>On account of its picturesque aspect and the fine mansions it contains, the Rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier is one of the most curious in Paris. At No. 26 -stands the Châlons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and +stands the Châlons-Luxembourg mansion, with its monumental door and wonderful knocker. At the bottom of the courtyard is an exceedingly elegant Louis XIII. pavilion in brick and stone, and of delicate proportions. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> mansion was built for the second Constable of @@ -3321,7 +3282,7 @@ this strange kitchen beneath these antique Gothic arches, between these blackened pillars still bearing traces of the candles that once burned in front of the holy images, on a ground formerly used for burying and even now concealing bones. The out-offices of the old church still -remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> Rue François-Miron, +remain, wonderfully picturesque, and open into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> Rue François-Miron, No. 2, on the left of the entrance portal of the church, between a laundress's establishment and a furniture-remover's premises!</p> @@ -3332,7 +3293,7 @@ The Rue Paradis-des-Francs-Bourgeois and the Rue Vieille-du-Temple in 1866<br /> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> -<p>On one side, the little Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue +<p>On one side, the little Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville brings us to the Rue Vieille-du-Temple, where we can admire, at No. 47, what is left of the quaint mansion of the Dutch Ambassadors, where "Monsieur Caron de Beaumarchais and Madame his spouse," as an almanac of 1787 called them, @@ -3340,7 +3301,7 @@ established in 1784 a Provident Institution for poor nursing mothers. Indeed, it was for the benefit of this undertaking that the fiftieth performance of the <i>Mariage de Figaro</i> was given. Farther on, to the right, at the corner of the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, stands the pretty -turret built about 1500 for Jean Hérouet; and, last of all, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> fine +turret built about 1500 for Jean Hérouet; and, last of all, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> fine Rohan palace, which to-day is the National Printing House. This last is a noble and spacious building which the elegant Cardinal that once lived in it took pleasure in sumptuously decorating. A masterpiece may be seen @@ -3370,8 +3331,8 @@ the gloomy street he rushed with absolutely nothing on.</p> <p>The little house still exists, wretched and dingy-looking, where Malet appointed to meet his accomplices, on the third floor in the abode of -the Abbé Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the -Bicêtre asylum.</p> +the Abbé Cajamanos, an old bewildered Spanish priest who had quitted the +Bicêtre asylum.</p> <p>This adventure of General Malet's is both prodigious and disconcerting. For, in 1812, at the moment when Napoleon seemed to be at the summit of @@ -3562,7 +3523,7 @@ sold. The nook is a quaint one, and the quarter also, with its remains of the Rue de la Grande-Truanderie, where, on the 10th of May 1797, one of the ancestors of Communism, Babœuf, was arrested.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span></p> -<p>Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Molière lived. +<p>Not far away used to be the Rue de la Tonnellerie, where Molière lived. This street disappeared when the Rue Turbigo was cut.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_076" id="ILL_076"></a> @@ -3631,11 +3592,11 @@ severity be shown? There was a good deal of intriguing and excitement; but, finally, the Lieutenant for criminal affairs, acting on the orders of the Regent, arrested the Count de Horn, on the 22nd of March 1720; and, four days after, the latter was broken on the wheel and executed in -the centre of the Grève Square, amidst the applause of all Paris.</p> +the centre of the Grève Square, amidst the applause of all Paris.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_078" id="ILL_078"></a> <img src="images/ill_078.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">MOLIÈRE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE<br /> +<span class="caption">MOLIÈRE'S HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LA TONNELLERIE<br /> <i>Water-colour by Hervier</i></span> </div> @@ -3649,7 +3610,7 @@ wretched fragments, the life of luxury, fever and stock-jobbing that once filled this old street, now foul with chemical smells and rancid odours of fried potatoes.</p> -<p>Collé's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris +<p>Collé's prophecy has been fulfilled: "One no longer belongs to Paris when one belongs to the Marais!"</p> <p>Trade has laid hold of the fine mansions of yore; druggists have set up @@ -3778,11 +3739,11 @@ women rival with each other in grace, manners and toilet, the latter of the strangest names; and the draughtsman Briou can write below a fashion engraving of the period: "The provoking Julia reposing on the Boulevard, while awaiting a stroke of good fortune; she is in morning gown with a -Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a><br /><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a><br /><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> Alexander's Cafè Royal, there +Diana hat that flying hearts adorn." At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a><br /><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a><br /><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> Alexander's Cafè Royal, there is supper and dancing; people crowd to listen to Nicolet's patter; and a circle of hearers surround Fanchon, the hurdy-gurdy player. On the same Boulevard, Curtius sets up his luxuriously arranged wax-work saloons; -and, later, the parades of Bobèche and Galimafré will be the joy of +and, later, the parades of Bobèche and Galimafré will be the joy of Paris; for a long time, the fair will continue.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;"><a name="ILL_081" id="ILL_081"></a> @@ -3792,22 +3753,22 @@ Paris; for a long time, the fair will continue.</p> </div> <p>The Ambigu, the Historic Theatre, the Gaiety, the Funambules, the -Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Délassements Comiques,—ten +Olympic Circus, the Little-Lazari, the Délassements Comiques,—ten theatres or so will add to the excitement with their strange, nervous, grandiloquent, noisy companies of actors. The gay apprentices, at all times fond of plays, will cheer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> as they go by the heroes of all these dramas and melodramas, so numerous that popular slang had nicknamed as Crime Boulevard the thoroughfare where, at twelve each evening, so much blood flowed on the boards of these theatres. There were Madame Dorval, -Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Déjazet, Messieurs Bocage, Mélingue, -Bouffé, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau—the +Mademoiselle George, Mademoiselle Déjazet, Messieurs Bocage, Mélingue, +Bouffé, Dumaine, Saint-Ernest, Boutin, Colbrun, Lesueur, Deburau—the ideal Pierrot—and also Gobert, so like Napoleon I., as was Taillade, who, thin and nervous, was incarnating Bonaparte. It was the period when the Bonapartist epopee turned people's heads to such an extent that the poor comedian Briand, who, in one of the many Napoleon plays, was acting the ungrateful part of Sir Hudson Lowe, said: "I shall never have a similar success. Yesterday, I was waited for at the theatre door and -thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!"</p> +thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!"</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_082" id="ILL_082"></a> <img src="images/ill_082.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="" /> @@ -3816,16 +3777,16 @@ thrown into the Château-d'Eau canal basin!"</p> </div> <p>All the quarter waxed enthusiastic about its favourite actors, espoused -their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frédéric +their quarrels, repeated their witticisms or their adventures: Frédéric Lemaitre especially, a tragic, dare-devil, drinking, extravagant yet talented artist, decking himself in private life, as well as on the -stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Cæsar de Bazan, had his own +stage, in the frayed-out plumes of Don Cæsar de Bazan, had his own story. People went into ecstasies over his amours with Clarisse Miroy, interwoven with thrashings and fond tenderness. On the day after one of -these noisy quarrels, Frédéric is said to have rung at his lady-love's +these noisy quarrels, Frédéric is said to have rung at his lady-love's door, which was opened by Clarisse's mother. The good dame, frightened at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> brutal actor's appearance, raised her arm instinctively as if to -ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frédéric in Richard +ward off a blow.... "I beat you, I!" thundered Frédéric in Richard d'Arlington's tones, "I beat you! Why?... Do I love you?"</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 265px;"><a name="ILL_083" id="ILL_083"></a> @@ -3849,10 +3810,10 @@ kettle-drummer, for the modest salary of forty-five francs a month.</p> </div> <p>Others to perform there were the Davenport brothers and the conjurer -Robin, with their amusing séances of hypnotism and white magic. On this +Robin, with their amusing séances of hypnotism and white magic. On this always-to-be-remembered Temple Boulevard were to be met the various -fashionable authors: Dennery, Théodore Barrière, Victor Séjour, Paul -Féval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard +fashionable authors: Dennery, Théodore Barrière, Victor Séjour, Paul +Féval, Gounod, Berlioz, A. Adam, Clapisson, Saint-Georges, the Cogniard brothers, Clairville; and the great Dumas used to pass in triumph, shaking hands with everybody as he went. The coffee-houses had to turn customers away; orange-sellers made fortunes, while boys sold checks, @@ -3866,10 +3827,10 @@ was the golden age!</p> <p>In 1862, a regrettable decision of Baron Haussmann, the Prefect of the Seine, suppressed this bit of Paris, so lively and gay; and, on the ruins of all these theatres, which brought money and mirth to the -quarter, were built Prince Eugène's barracks, the ugly Hôtel Moderne, +quarter, were built Prince Eugène's barracks, the ugly Hôtel Moderne, and the wretched monument of the Republic Square. Of all this fine, -artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Déjazet Theatre, at the -corner of the Vendôme Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter +artistic past nothing is left except the tiny Déjazet Theatre, at the +corner of the Vendôme Passage, and the Turkish Coffee-house; the latter different far from what it was when Bailly depicted it under the Directory. Elegant dames, the Merveilleuses, the Incroyables used to frequent it for the purpose of nibbling an ice or sipping little pots of @@ -3879,18 +3840,18 @@ the quarter took their family to get an idea of the high Parisian life which made the Turkish Coffee-house one of its favourite meeting-places.</p> <p>Restaurants were numerous, being souvenirs of coffee-houses formerly -renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafés. There one found singing and +renowned, like the Godet and Yon cafés. There one found singing and dancing, and, now and again, plotting. It was at the Burgundy Vintage Restaurant in the Temple faubourg, the ordinary rendezvous of Paris wedding-breakfasts or National Guard love-feasts, that—on the 9th of May 1831, at the end of a banquet given to celebrate the acquittal of Guinard, Cavaignac, and the Garnier brothers, charged with plotting -against the State—Évariste<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a><br /><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a><br /><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> Gallois, with a knife in his hand, +against the State—Évariste<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a><br /><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a><br /><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> Gallois, with a knife in his hand, proposed in three words this threatening toast: "To Louis-Philippe!"</p> <p>The great Flaubert lived on the Temple Boulevard at No. 42. There, on Sundays, he gathered his disciples at noisy lunches—Zola, Goncourt, -Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Céard, George Pouchet—a few yards away +Daudet, de Maupassant, Huysmans, Céard, George Pouchet—a few yards away from a building of tragic fame. No. 50, in fact, was the wretched house whose third-story Venetian blinds concealed Fieschi and the twenty-five pistol barrels loaded with bullets which constituted his infernal @@ -3900,7 +3861,7 @@ terrible. The grocer Morey, who had helped to prepare the monstrous crime, had even taken the useful precaution to damage four of the gun-barrels, whose explosion was to suppress Fieschi himself.</p> -<p>Pépin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several +<p>Pépin, another accomplice, had been careful to walk his horse several times past the fatal window; and from behind the Venetian blinds, Fieschi, who was an excellent shot, had been able at his ease to regulate the aim of his horrible slaughtering-machine. It was intended @@ -3917,9 +3878,9 @@ blood. More than forty victims lay on the road, among them being the glorious Marshal Mortier, who expired on one of the marble tables in the Turkish Coffee-house, whither the dead and wounded had been transported. Fieschi, who was wounded, was arrested in the backyard of the next -house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fossés-du-Temple. On the +house, while trying to fly through the Rue des Fossés-du-Temple. On the 19th of February 1836, he ascended the scaffold with his accomplices, -Pépin and Morey.</p> +Pépin and Morey.</p> <p>At the corner of the Temple Boulevard, to the right, in front of the first house in the Voltaire Boulevard, the barricade was raised where @@ -3955,7 +3916,7 @@ the form of an expectant friend.</p> <i>Drawn by A. Maignan</i></span> </div> -<p>Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Cléry, +<p>Near the Porte Saint-Denis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de Cléry, there was formerly a rise in the road, which was the scene of a tragic occurrence. There, on the 21st of January 1793, the intrepid De Batz had appointed to meet a few companions. It was determined that a forlorn @@ -3975,36 +3936,36 @@ managed to escape.</p> <div class="figleft" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_087" id="ILL_087"></a> <img src="images/ill_087.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE RUE DE CLÉRY<br /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE CLÉRY<br /> <i>Lansyer, pinxit</i></span> </div> -<p>This strange, winding Rue de Cléry, whose thin edge stands out so +<p>This strange, winding Rue de Cléry, whose thin edge stands out so curiously against the sky, was the scene of another drama. The father of -André and Marie-Joseph Chénier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of -Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son André, +André and Marie-Joseph Chénier lived at No. 97. There, on the 7th of +Thermidor, he was anxiously waiting for the liberation of his son André, who for long months had been a prisoner at Saint-Lazare. The poor man had foolishly taken it into his head to appeal to Collot d'Herbois' heart(!) and to ask him to free his son. Collot d'Herbois had once been an actor; and now, on another sort<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a><br /><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a><br /><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> of stage, revenged himself for -having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which André -Chénier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know +having been hissed. He had not forgotten the lines in which André +Chénier had satirised him in such masterly fashion, but he did not know in what prison his enemy was confined. Marie-Joseph, the brother, himself an object of suspicion, had been able to lengthen out the -proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where André was confined. +proceedings and to keep as a secret the place where André was confined. At this supreme hour of the Terror, it was the only possible chance Collot d'Herbois had to satisfy his vengeance; and the information thus unadvisedly but innocently given by the prisoner's father was utilised by the revengeful actor. "To-morrow," Collot assured the unhappy father, "your son shall quit Saint-Lazare." He kept his word; and, on the 7th of Thermidor, just at the hour when the guest was so impatiently expected, -André got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the +André got into the cart to go to the scaffold, erected that day at the barrier of the Throne Square.</p> -<p>Round about the picturesque Rue de Cléry, the quarter is an odd medley +<p>Round about the picturesque Rue de Cléry, the quarter is an odd medley of little streets, lanes, and alleys: the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance, the Rue Sainte-Foy, the Rue des Petits-Carreaux, the Rue de la Lune, in -which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempré watching over Coralie's +which last Balzac lodged his Lucien de Rubempré watching over Coralie's dead body, and composing libertine songs, in order to gain the money required for his mistress's funeral.</p> @@ -4026,20 +3987,20 @@ three feathers—one yellow, one black, and one white!</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_088" id="ILL_088"></a> <img src="images/ill_088.jpg" width="600" height="429" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE POISSONNIÈRE BOULEVARD IN 1834<br /> +<span class="caption">THE POISSONNIÈRE BOULEVARD IN 1834<br /> <i>Dagnan, pinxit</i> (Carnavalet Museum)</span> </div> <p>A delightful picture by Dagnan, which is now in the Carnavalet Museum, -shows us the Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain +shows us the Poissonnière Boulevard in 1834. Most of the houses remain to-day; but, alas! the tall, thick-foliaged trees that made the Boulevard a sort of park avenue have long since disappeared. That lover of Paris, Victorien Sardou, who was born in it, and who is cheered, loved, and honoured in it, very well remembers seeing the trees as they used to be, and his long saunterings in front of the Gymnase Theatre. Did he foresee the successes he was to gain with <i>les Ganaches</i>, <i>les -Vieux Garçons</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a><br /><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a><br /><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> <i>les Bons Villageois</i>, <i>Andréa</i>, <i>Féréol</i>, -<i>Séraphine</i>, <i>Fernande</i>, &c.?</p> +Vieux Garçons</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a><br /><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a><br /><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> <i>les Bons Villageois</i>, <i>Andréa</i>, <i>Féréol</i>, +<i>Séraphine</i>, <i>Fernande</i>, &c.?</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_089" id="ILL_089"></a> <img src="images/ill_089.jpg" width="600" height="464" alt="" /> @@ -4049,13 +4010,13 @@ Vieux Garçons</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289 <p>Further on, we come across the ancient Variety Theatre, whose antique front speaks of a glorious past; Duvert, Lauzanne, Bayard, Scribe, -Meilhac, Ludovic Halévy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music +Meilhac, Ludovic Halévy, and, above all, Offenbach, whose haunting music bewitched Paris for twenty years.</p> -<p>Ludovic Halévy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us +<p>Ludovic Halévy, who was a charming chronicler of Paris life, has left us an interesting sketch of the Montmartre Boulevard towards 1810: "The Variety actors had been obliged to quit the Montansier hall; their -vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Théâtre Français. +vaudevilles had more success than the tragedies at the Théâtre Français. The Emperor made a decree depriving them of the Palais-Royal premises; but they were allowed to move to new premises on the Montmartre Boulevard!... A frightful quarter for a theatre!... It was almost in the @@ -4076,8 +4037,8 @@ the country!!.."</p> Boulevard</i>. For idlers, saunterers, wits, clubmen, writers, journalists, under the second Empire, it was a sort of sacred ground. Grammont-Caderousse, the Prince of Orange, Khalil-Bey, Paul<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> Demidoff, -Aurélien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot -were kings there. The Café Anglais, the Maison Dorée, Tortoni's were +Aurélien Scholl, Roqueplan, Aubryet, Jules Lecomte, Auguste Villemot +were kings there. The Café Anglais, the Maison Dorée, Tortoni's were frequented by the fashionables of society and literature. The gas flared, champagne corks flew, and one had only to open pianos for them to play automatically the Evohe of <i>Orpheus in Hades</i>! An apropos @@ -4118,18 +4079,18 @@ sausage, replace the aristocratic restaurants of yore. The features are<span cla different; but still it is a Paris nook, really gay, amusing, and original. A walk in it is delightful, though nothing, alas! can be said to vividly recall the past, since the terrible fire of 1887 destroyed -the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Grétry, Dalayrac, Méhul, -Boïeldieu, and Hérold; the Opera whose façade does not open on the +the Comic Opera of our fathers; the Opera of Grétry, Dalayrac, Méhul, +Boïeldieu, and Hérold; the Opera whose façade does not open on the boulevard, according to the desire formally expressed in 1782 to Heurtier, the architect, by the King's Comedians refusing to be confused -with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opéra-Comique where, every evening, +with the "Boulevard Comedians"; the Opéra-Comique where, every evening, in the spacious <i>foyer</i> adorned with busts of dead musical celebrities -and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitués +and composers that had contributed to the theatre's fame, the habitués met whose attendance was a protest against modern music: Auber, Adam, -Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another æsthetic doctrine, -G. Bizet, Léo Delibes, V. Massé, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halévy, +Clapisson, Bazin, Maillard; later, and with another æsthetic doctrine, +G. Bizet, Léo Delibes, V. Massé, J. Massenet, Carvalho, Meilhac, Halévy, and old Dupin, the last an astonishing centenarian who, one evening, -with rancorous eye looked at Hérold's bust and grumbled: "How that +with rancorous eye looked at Hérold's bust and grumbled: "How that urchin used to rile me!" In presence of the general bewilderment he explained: "I was his school companion, in 1806, at Saint-Louis' College!" we were then in May 1885! This was the obstinately reactionary @@ -4145,11 +4106,11 @@ not to!"</p> <p>The amiable chats, the agreeable meetings which brought together so many witty people, clever talkers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a><br /><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a><br /><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> artists, men of the world, those of the -Comic Opera <i>foyer</i>, of the Grand Opera, or the Comédie Française are +Comic Opera <i>foyer</i>, of the Grand Opera, or the Comédie Française are now hardly anything but a memory. Not that the practice itself is abolished. Art gatherings are quite as frequent and as well attended; but they have emigrated,—many of them to Montmartre, to the "Butte -Sacrée," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing +Sacrée," the holy mound, "the teat of the world," yelled the astonishing Salis in his <i>Chat Noir</i> patter; and truly the spot is one of the Capital's curiosities.</p> @@ -4177,9 +4138,9 @@ couplets.</p> <p>Montmartre is the Capital's pot-house; it is all good-humoured laughter and chaff. People enjoy themselves at night and work in the day, for it has always been a favourite abode for artists of every kind: Henri -Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantès, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle -Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Massé, Vollon, -Manet, André Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, +Monnier, the Duchess d'Abrantès, Madame Haudebourg-Lescot, Mademoiselle +Mars, Horace Vernet, Berlioz, Ch. Jacque, Reyer, Victor Massé, Vollon, +Manet, André Gill, Steinlen, Guillemet, Willette, Jules Jouy, Mac-Nab, Xanrof, Maurice Donnay. Their memory there is alive and respected, the legend of their prowess is preserved. It is Montmartre's <i>Iliad</i>.</p> @@ -4200,12 +4161,12 @@ in the Rue des Rosiers and shot against a garden wall.</p> which this tragedy of the 18th of March was played, a little of the garden itself remains, behind the modern buildings of the <i>Abri Saint-Joseph</i>, vast sheds used as refectories by the crowds of pilgrims -attracted to the basilica of the Sacré-Cœur.</p> +attracted to the basilica of the Sacré-Cœur.</p> <p>Indeed, all this quarter is melancholy-looking, silent, quaint, and monastic. Chaplet, scapulary, candle, missal, and pious picture-dealers have their shops in it. The spot is a sort of religious fair; even the -streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthère, Saint-Rustique, near the +streets have liturgical names: Saint-Eleuthère, Saint-Rustique, near the Rue Girardon, and the Calvary cemetery, overlooked by the awkward outlines of the old Galette Windmill, the ordinary rendezvous for idlers, boulevard inquisitives, artists' models, lemans and bullies of @@ -4238,13 +4199,13 @@ stone, whence heave, like masts, the bell-towers of palaces, the turrets, belfries and steeples of churches, with domes, roofs and gardens—an incomparable vision of art, grandeur and beauty.</p> -<p>The great Balzac informs us that César Birotteau was ruined by +<p>The great Balzac informs us that César Birotteau was ruined by speculations he engaged in on the "waste ground round about the Madeleine church."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a><br /><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a><br /><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a><br /><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a><br /><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> He lost in them the profits realised by his "Eau -Carminative" and by the "Double Pâte des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" +Carminative" and by the "Double Pâte des Sultanes." His "Rose Queen" perfumery was swallowed up in them....</p> -<p>And, however, César Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the +<p>And, however, César Birotteau was right in his reasoning. To-day, the Madeleine building ground is the highest quoted in Paris.</p> <p>In 1802, the surface was occupied by foundation works and scaffolding, @@ -4260,12 +4221,12 @@ the building.</p> <p>There took place the charming episode depicted by Duplessis-Bertaux, under the pleasing title: "Ingenuous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> Benevolence" (an historic fact of the 5th Messidor, anno X.). A long notice, beneath the picture, tells us -that Pradère, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening +that Pradère, Persuis, Elleviou and "his spouse," walking one evening along the Magdalene Boulevard, met a blind street-singer, who "by the strains of his piano was soliciting public charity." The receipts were wretched; so our kind artists improvised a little open-air concert and remedied the ill-fortune of the poor fellow. After delightfully singing, -Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradère made a collection, and poured +Madame Elleviou, her husband and Pradère made a collection, and poured the proceeds, thirty-six francs, into the blind man's hands trembling with emotion!</p> @@ -4275,8 +4236,8 @@ with emotion!</p> <i>From a sepia of the eighteenth century</i></span> </div> -<p>Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysées, after stopping for a -moment at the "Cité Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the +<p>Along the Rue Royale, we reach the Champs-Elysées, after stopping for a +moment at the "Cité Berryer," a strange alley in which once stood the hotel of the King's Musketeers. It is a sort of poor market lost in this rich quarter.</p> @@ -4287,9 +4248,9 @@ rich quarter.</p> </div> <p>Then comes the Place de la Concorde, the finest Square in the world, -with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysées, the Seine, the +with its unrivalled perspectives of the Champs Elysées, the Seine, the Tuileries, the Garde-Meuble, the Crillon mansion, and the charming house -of Grimod de la Reynière, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at +of Grimod de la Reynière, to-day the Cercle de l'Union artistique, at the corner of the Rue de "la Bonne Morue"—at present the Rue Boissy d'Anglas—in front of which still stood, until the second Empire, one of the corner pavilions erected by Gabriel. What souvenirs! the raising of @@ -4303,7 +4264,7 @@ the ditches crossed, and then the sinister scaffold, smoking in front of the statue to Liberty, and the Conventionals terrified, stopping before they entered their hall and taking a close look at the death which, each day, hovered over them. "Yesterday, as I was proceeding to the Assembly -with Pénières," writes Dulaure in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> Memoirs, "we perceived, as we +with Pénières," writes Dulaure in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> Memoirs, "we perceived, as we passed through the Revolution Square, preparations being made for an execution. 'Let us pause,' my colleague said to me; 'let us accustom ourselves to the sight. Perhaps we shall soon need to make proof of our @@ -4318,7 +4279,7 @@ At the angle of the Rue de la Bonne-Morue about 1850 (to-day the Rue Boissy-d </div> <p>Severed heads were exhibited by the executioner at the four corners of -the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Hérault de Séchelles, +the huge Square: Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Hérault de Séchelles, Charlotte Corday, Madame Roland, Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and Robespierre. A dreadful pell-mell, a disastrous butchery; the ground was red with blood. Then followed the soldiers of the Empire, singing as @@ -4357,8 +4318,8 @@ yards from the place where the four hoofs of the Emperor Napoleon's white horse pranced, as his rider reviewed the Guard, before flying his victorious eagles towards Moscow, Madrid, Rome, Vienna, or Berlin!</p> -<p>The Champs Elysées are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine -avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile—the Avenue Kléber, the Avenue +<p>The Champs Elysées are of almost modern creation. A decade ago, the fine +avenues surrounding the Arc de l'Etoile—the Avenue Kléber, the Avenue Wagram, the Avenue Niel, the Avenue de l'Alma—offered most picturesque contrasts; beside a sumptuous mansion, subsisted wretched little houses, remains of old hovels that once were scattered all over this luxurious @@ -4367,7 +4328,7 @@ even to cross, of sixty years ago. Under the Directory, Madame Tallien's cottage (Notre Dame de Thermidor, she was called) to which the Incroyables and the Merveilleuses dared not go without escort, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> situated as far up as the Avenue Montaigne. Dancing-gardens and open-air -bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafés-concerts. An +bars occupied the space now filled by restaurants and cafés-concerts. An engraving by Carle Vernet shows us a Cossack encampment round a humble, country-looking inn. Now the Le Doyen restaurant stands there!</p> @@ -4377,7 +4338,7 @@ country-looking inn. Now the Le Doyen restaurant stands there!</p> <i>Chauvet, del.</i></span> </div> -<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysées were at length altered: side +<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Champs-Elysées were at length altered: side avenues were laid out, the main avenue was widened; and Emile Augier used to relate that, in the hollow of one of the trees numbered for trimming (No. 116, I believe), the ticket porter belonging to the @@ -4386,15 +4347,15 @@ rehearsals of <i>Mercadet</i>. The great novelist, in order to escape from his numerous creditors, was lodging at this period in the Rue Beaujon, under the name of Madame Dupont, widow. Gozlan, who ultimately discovered his illustrious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a><br /><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a><br /><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> friend's address, added on the envelopes -he sent to him—"née Balzac."</p> +he sent to him—"née Balzac."</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ILL_102" id="ILL_102"></a> <img src="images/ill_102.jpg" width="600" height="417" alt="" /> -<span class="caption">THE MADRID CHÂTEAU<br /> +<span class="caption">THE MADRID CHÂTEAU<br /> <i>L. G. Moreau, pinxit</i></span> </div> -<p>The curious Memoirs of the Abbé de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us +<p>The curious Memoirs of the Abbé de Salamon, a Papal internuncio, give us a striking picture of the Bois de Boulogne under the Revolution: a sort of forest, or jungle, in which those took refuge who, being suspected, were tracked by the Committees and the police, and to whom the precious @@ -4426,9 +4387,9 @@ answered."</p> <p>Subsequently it became the ordinary meeting-place<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> for duellists. Already, in the time of Louis XV., some ladies, the Marchioness de Nesles and the Countess de Polignac, had exchanged pistol shots in it on -account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazalès +account of the Duke de Richelieu. Under the Revolution, in 1790, Cazalès and Barnave went there to settle a political quarrel: "I should be sorry -to kill you," exclaimed Cazalès; "but you annoy us considerably, and I +to kill you," exclaimed Cazalès; "but you annoy us considerably, and I want to keep you away from the rostrum for a while." "I am more generous," retorted Barnave; "I wish merely to touch you; for you are the only orator on your side, whereas on mine my absence would not even @@ -4444,7 +4405,7 @@ And how many others!...</p> <span class="caption">A PERFORMANCE AT THE HIPPODROME ON EYLAU SQUARE UNDER THE SECOND EMPIRE</span> </div> -<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orléans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord +<p>Under Louis-Philippe, the Duke d'Orléans, the Duke de Nemours, Lord Seymour, the Duke de Fitz-James, Ernest Le Roy—the Jockey Club at its formation—organised races there. The stakes were modest; most often, a few bottles of champagne were gained and lost. Then fashion took hold of @@ -4455,7 +4416,7 @@ favourite chariot-races.</p> <p>The Bois de Boulogne became the rendezvous of society. There, was displayed the luxury of the Second Empire. Its trees and avenues formed -an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the <i>Curèe</i>, +an exquisite framework to elegance and worldly show. In the <i>Curèe</i>, Emile Zola was able to write: "It was four o'clock and the Bois awoke from its afternoon sultriness. Along the Empress' Avenue, clouds of dust were flying; and, afar, lawns of verdure could be seen, with the hills @@ -4475,7 +4436,7 @@ day gathers within these select surroundings the most elegant women in Paris, fashionable horsemen, vibrating autocars with their <i>chauffeurs</i>, clubmen as well as artists and workmen, who come to enjoy the fair spectacle, this feast of the eyes, this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> unique scenery: the Bois de -Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysées.</p> +Boulogne, the Avenue du Bois, the Champs Elysées.</p> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_105" id="ILL_105"></a> <img src="images/ill_105.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="" /> @@ -4488,7 +4449,7 @@ the glory of the Grand Army that a view is obtained of the sumptuous quarters of modern Paris.</p> <p>Some sixty years ago, Balzac showed his hero dreaming on the hill of -Père-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster +Père-Lachaise, and contemplating, as it lay in the valley, the Monster he intended to tame. To-day Rastignac would have to mount the Arc de Triomphe, if he wished to threaten Paris. Thence, he might launch his famous defiance: "It is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> struggle between us now!" for, if the aspect @@ -4509,7 +4470,7 @@ win its favour.</p> <div class="center"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> <tr><td align="left"><i>History of and Researches into the Antiquities of the City of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">H. Sauval</span> (1724).</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>History of the City and Diocese of Paris</i>. By the <span class="smcap">Abbé Lebeuf</span> (1883).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>History of the City and Diocese of Paris</i>. By the <span class="smcap">Abbé Lebeuf</span> (1883).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Tableau of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Mercier</span> (1782).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>History of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Dulaure</span> (1825).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Tableau of Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Texier</span> (1850).</td></tr> @@ -4519,10 +4480,10 @@ win its favour.</p> <tr><td align="left"><i>Paris throughout the Ages</i>. By <span class="smcap">E. Fournier</span> (1875).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>My Old Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">E. Drumont</span> (1879).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Auguste Vitu</span> (1889).</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>Paris (History of the Twenty Arrondissements or Quarters)</i>. By <span class="smcap">Labédollière</span>.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>Revolutionary Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Lenôtre</span> (1895).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Paris (History of the Twenty Arrondissements or Quarters)</i>. By <span class="smcap">Labédollière</span>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Revolutionary Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Lenôtre</span> (1895).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Old Papers, Old Houses</i>. (1900).</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>The Bièvre and Saint-Séverin</i>. By <span class="smcap">Huysmans</span> (1898).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>The Bièvre and Saint-Séverin</i>. By <span class="smcap">Huysmans</span> (1898).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>The Chronicle of the Streets</i>. By <span class="smcap">Beaurepaire</span> (1900).</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>Paris-Atlas</i>. By <span class="smcap">F. Bournon</span>.</td></tr> <tr><td align="left"><i>New Itinerary Guide to Paris</i>. By <span class="smcap">Ch. Normand</span>.</td></tr> @@ -4544,381 +4505,6 @@ retains some of its ancient grace.</p></div> <div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> A word here meaning ultra-naturalistic, broadly satirical.</p></div></div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old Paris, by Georges Cain - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD PARIS *** - -***** This file should be named 40306-h.htm or 40306-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/3/0/40306/ - -Produced by Annie R. McGuire. 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